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^
\
GARDENING IN
CALIFORNIA
LANDSCAPE AND FLOWER
BY
JOHN McLaren
i»
SUPERINTENDENT OF GOLDEN GATE PARK
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA
• •* • • • •• • •••• •••• • •••
SAN FRANCISCO
A. M. ROBERTSON
MDCCCCXIV
\ ^\^J>'i>
COPYRIGHT 1908
BY
A. M ROBERTSON
COPYRIGHT, 1914
BY
A. M. ROBERTSON
• !•• ••••••••
• m • m • • * • - a
• • • -• ,•• .•.•••• • • •*•
• ■
I
M I ^f
SAN FRANCISCO. CALIFORNIA
PREFACE
I HIS handbook is respectfully submitted to gardeners in
California, amateur and professional, as supplementary
to, and a modification of those excellent treatises and
encyclopedias on Landscape and Flower Gardening
which have become the authorities and text-books on
the subject, but which were written for the conditions of
climate and season in European countries and the Eastern States of our
own land.
In California these conditions are so different, and the possibilities of
the culture and development of trees, shrubs and flowers are so much
greater than in Europe or any other of the United States of America, that
our gardeners have had to do a great deal of original investigation and
experimental work. The results of such investigation and work by the
writer are recorded in these pages.
The difference referred to is well illustrated by the universally loved
Pansy which, in the Eastern States, is sown in February, flowering in May
or June, while in California it is sown in July and flowers from November
to May, and also by the Acacia which, in the East, is grown in pot in the
conservatory, protected by glass and heated by artificial heat, whereas, in
our State, it grows, a handsome tree, in any soil in the open air and flowers
in midwinter.
Although it has been found necessary to treat of the conservatory to a
certain extent, yet this has been done only as subsidiary to the main pur-
pose of the book, the treatment, in the conservatory, of plants which are
not hardy in the open air Jocally, being the same here as in any other part
of the country. It should, however, be kept in view that hundreds of trees,
shrubs and flowers, which cannot possibly exist in the open air in those
parts of the United States and Europe where the climatic conditions are
more harsh than here, flourish and give grand effects out of doors in
California.
During his gardening experience of thirty-five years in various parts of
California, but particularly during the past twenty years of his superin-
tendency of Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, the author has had, from
[v]
39G3I9
PREFACE
all over the State, a great number of inquiries and requests for advice and
suggestions.
These inquiries have become so numerous that it has been practically
impossible for him to answer them all, and such replies as he has been able
to give have necessarily been very brief. He therefore believes that his
experience, as now embodied in this book, will be of interest and perhaps
value to those who take delight in the wonderful results with which the
fertile soil and genial climate of our State reward their earnest and loving
labor.
It is believed that the practical value of the work is added to by the
illustrations which are all from photographs especially taken for this
purpose.
In writing the book the author has had the able collaboration and
assistance of his friend Mr. James C. Fyfe of San Francisco, of which, in
this place he desires to record his deep and grateful appreciation.
That this book may give pleasure and be of use to all who strive to
make our State even more attractive by adding to the beauties of its land-
scape and gardens, is the earnest hope of
THE AUTHOR.
San Francisco, December, 1908.
NOTE TO SECOND EDITION
This opportunity is taken to make a few additions and to correct such
t)T)Qgraphical errors as were overlooked in the first edition.
The additional recommendations in Chapter V for the transplanting of
large trees and shrubs embody the method followed by the writer for years,
the eflFectiveness of which has been particularly noticeable in the transplant-
ing of the great number of large trees into the grounds of the Panama
Pacific International Exposition of 191 5.
San Fhancisco, December, 1914.
Ivi]
CONTENTS
Page
Preface v
CHAPTER I
The LocAnoN of a Site for House and Garden and the Pre-
liminary Plans i
CHAPTER II
■
Planning the Pleasure-garden and Grounds 12
CHAPTER III
Preparation of the Ground 37
CHAPTER IV
Construction of Roads and Walks 40
CHAPTER V
Planting and Transplanting 47
CHAPTER VI
Lawns 55
CHAPTER VII
Trees and Shrubs 60
CHAPTER VIII
Climbers and Twiners 171
CHAPTER IX
Bulbous and Tuberous-rooted plants 182
CHAPTER X
Palms 194
CHAPTER XI
Ferns . . 203
[vii]
CONTENTS
Page
CHAPTER XII
Bamboos and Grasses 208
CHAPTER XIII
Succulents 216
CHAPTER XIV
Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 225
CHAPTER XV
Ponds, Lakes and the Water Garden 281
CHAPTER XVI
Parlor Gardening 293
CHAPTER XVII
The Window Box 295
CHAPTER XVIII
The Amateur's Conservatory 299
CHAPTER XIX
Treatment of the Common Diseases of, and Insects Injurious
TO Plants 302
CHAPTER XX
A Few Explanations and Directions 309
CHAPTER XXI
Sand Reclamation 319
CHAPTER XXII
Calendar of Operations 329
[viii]
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
Gateway Shaded by Trees 3
Outline of Lawn and Grouping of Trees 7
Grounds Decorated with Palms. Cocos plumosa as Sidewalk
Tree 9
Cottages with Lawns in Front. Fan Palms (Washingtonia
SoNORiE) AS Sidewalk Trees iS
Planting List and Plan for Lot 25' x 120' 20
21
22
• 23
24,25
26, 27
28, 29, 30
30,31,32
Planting List and Plan for Lot 40' x 120
Planting List and Plan for Lot 50' x 150
Planting List and Plan for Lot 75' x 150
Planting List and Plan for Lot 100' x 180
Planting List and Plan for Lot 150' x 200
Planting List and Plan for Lot 200' x 350
Planting List and Plan for Lot 300' x 400
Planting List and Plan for Ten-acre Tract . 32,33,34,35,36
Walk with Rustic Benches. Background of Pines and Firs 41
Formal Gardening. Walks Converging to Fountain. Back-
ground Heavily Wooded 43
Driveway Showing California Laurel (to Left of Illustra-
tion) AND Oaks; also Ivy-covered Stump 45
Walk Lined with Dracaenas 46
Moving a Palm 35 Feet High and Weighing Over 40 Tons.
Wine Palm of Chile (Jub^a spectabilis) 49
Lawn Outline. Eucalyptus and Conifers 54
Lawn with Tree Groups 57
Abelia rupeStris 60
Abies Mertensiana 61
Abies Morinda 63
Abutilon 64
Acacia armata 65
Acacia lophanta 65
ACHANIA MaLVAVISCUS 67
Albizzia Julibrissin 68
Azalea '. 72
[ix]
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
BOUVARDIA 75
Buxus 76
Callistemon 77
Camellia 78
Cassia 80
Casuarina 81
Ceanothus 81
Cedrus Libani. (Young Specimen) 82
Portugal Laurel 83
CERas 84
Cestrum 84
Choisya ternata 85
CiSTUS 85
Clianthus puniceus 87
Cotoneaster ' 90
CUPRESSUS NUTKAENSIS — THE AlASKAN SpECIES 9I
CuPRESSUs Lawsoniana 93
Broom 94
Datura Suaveolens 95
EcHiUM 97
Erica persoluta alba 98
Escallonia rosea 100
Eucalyptus ficifolia loi
Eugenia latifolia 105
Fabiana 107
FiCUS ELASTICA IO9
FrAXINUS excelsior Ill
Gardenia 112
Hypericum 117
lochroma tubulosa ii9
JUNIPERUS ChINENSIS 121
Lantana 123
Lasiandra macrantha 124
An Arbor of Leptospermum LiEviGATUM 125
Leptospermum 127
libocedrus decurrens 1 28
Ligustrum Japonicum 129
Magnolia stellata 131
[x]
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
Melaleuca Leucadendron 132-
Mespilus Japonica
Metrosideros robusta
Nandina domestica
Philadelphus
PiMELIA ROSEA
A Group of Pines
PiTTOSPORUM UNDULATUM
POLYGALA DaLMAISL/VNA
Prunus sinensis
PUNICA GRANATUM
Pyrus FLORIBUNDA
quercus suber
Rhododendron
romneya coulteri
Sequoia gigantea
Spartium junceum
SPIRiEA
Streptosolen
swainsonia
Syringa vulgaris
Taxodium
Thuya gigantea
torreya coulteri
Ulmus
Veronica decussata
Viburnum Tinus
ViRGILIA LUTEA
BiGNONIA ChERERE
bougainvillea
Clematis
Lathyrus odoratus
lonicera
Mandevilla suaveolens
muehlenbeckia complexa
Wistaria
Agapanthus
Iris
[xi]
33
35
36
38
40
42
43
44
46
47
48
49
5°
53
54
56
58
59
60
61
62
63
65
66
67
68
69
70
72
73
73
76
77
78
79
81
82
85
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
Narcissus i88
COCOS PLUMOSA AS SiDEWALK TrEE 1 95
Phcenix Canariensis 198
Natural Group of Washingtonias (CALiPORjaA Fan Palms) 201
Group of Tree Ferns 205
Ferns and Grasses in Rockery 209
Bamboos 213
Pampas Grass 217
Aloe vera 219
EcHEVERiA 221
Crassula coccinea 222
Mesembryanthemum spectabile 223
Sedum 224
Ageratum 226
Begonia Vernon 232
Campanula carpatica 234
Canna indica 23s
Cineraria hybrida 238
Dahlia imperialis 240
Digitalis 245
DoRONicuM 245
Fuchsia 246
Specimen of Fuchsia 247
Stock 256
Pentstemon 262
Petunia 263
Poinsettia 266
Primula obconica 267
Verbena 276
Pansy 277
Small Lake with Pampas Grass 283
Small Lake Bordered with Willow and Pine 287
Pond with Lilies 289
Babylonian Willow 292
Window Boxes 297
Interior of Greenhouse 300
Canary Islands Date-palm 308
Formal Gardening with Grass Walks 321
[xii]
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
Eucalyptus in Sand Near Coast 323
Albizzia Julibrissin in Flower 327
DEaDuous Oaks 331
Terraced Front. Camphor-trees on Sidewalk 337
Lawn and Driveway 343
Hedge Front, Clipped Trees and Palms 351
Formal Approach, with Italian Cypress 359
Summer House. Standard Roses on Border of Path . 365
Group of Varieties of Palms 371
I...
xm
» o i
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER I
THE LOCATION OF A SITE FOR HOUSE AND GARDEN, AND THE
PRELIMINARY PLANS
[S THE location and laying out of the grounds
which he has to cultivate are important factors
in the success of the gardener in California, as
elsewhere, a few practical suggestions upon these
points are deemed advisable and in keeping with
the general plan of the book. Before the best selection can be
made, one must have a general knowledge not only of the locality
where he intends his home and garden to be, but also of its sur-
roundings. Many important points should be taken into con-
sideration — especially the aspect and the altitude — ^in deciding
whether the top of a hill, or a hillside, or a flat, low, sheltered
spot is to be preferred.
How much not only the locality but also the aspect (that is
whether facing the North, South, East or West) affects the cul-
ture of the garden can scarcely be appreciated by those who have
not studied this very important subject. For example, few may
realize the difference, in the one point of shelter, between a gar-
den laid out facing the North and one facing the South, or (par-
ticularly in San Francisco where the prevailing wind in the
Summer season is from the West) between a garden facing the
East and one laid out so as to face the West.
In choosing a site for a dwelling-house and garden, an aspect
facing the South or South-east should be preferred, as it will be
better sheltered from the prevailing winds and have a much
[i]
•••• • aaa-**
•; • • • • • •^•. . .
• •••:• I • T \ •
IN CALIFORNIA
warmer temperature than one facing the West or North. Land
facing the South will have earlier flowers and may be more com-
fortably visited and enjoyed at all seasons, as the ground and
walks will dry more quickly after watering or after rains than
they would if facing the North.
Another exceedingly important point to be kept in view is
that water — and w^ater in abundance — must be provided for a
garden, for unless there is an ample supply during our long Sum-
mer, gardening in general cannot be successful. Therefore it is
necessary, before selecting a site for the garden, to see that water
may be had in generous quantities and at all times, either from
weUs, by pipe from a reservoir, or by ditch from a stream. In the
neighborhood of cities and large towns it may be procured from
public works, and, of course, within the cities water can be had
in any reasonable quantity desired, but in the country or where
there are no public pipes in the vicinity, wells will have to be
bored or dug, or a supply procured by the other means suggested.
After the site is selected, the next study should be the pre-
liminary plan for the improvement of the ground, the first and
most important point to be decided being upon what part of the
site the dwelling-house shall be built. This requires long and
careful study, for the ground must be visited frequently and at
different times of the day, in stormy weather as well as when
the days are warm and sunny. Consideration must be given to
the views that may be enjoyed from the windows of the different
rooms, and, in connection with this, it is necessary to anticipate
the possible use to which the adjoining properties may be put,,
especially as to whether there is a likelihood of buildings being
erected so as to interfere with or be a blot upon expected views.
Then if there are any objectionable features on neighboring
properties, this is the time when the plans should be prepared
so that, in the arrangement of the building and planting of the
grounds, these objectionable points may be shut off from view
as much as possible.
[2]
Gateway Shaded by Treec
THE PRELIMINARY PLANS
When the part of the grounds upon which the house is to be
built has been determined, it should be staked off with strong
stakes (say four-inch by four-inch pine), driven in three feet
and standing five feet above the ground, so that the four comers
of the proposed house may be seen from some distance, and that
thus the effect of the building may be studied from the street, or,
if the grounds are of large extent, from different points along the
lines of the projected drive or walks leading to the building.
Where very large grounds are to be laid out, flags set on tall
poles will be necessary to properly define the outlines when the
effect is viewed from a distance, and, at this time also, the sites
for stables and any other necessary outbuildings should be
staked off in similar way. It is hardly necessary to say that
such buildings as the stables must be placed at the rear of the
house.
The house must, of course, be connected, by either a walk or
driveway or both, with the street or public road, and an entrance
gateway provided at the most convenient and effective part of
the frontage, so the next step to take is to determine where the
main gateway shall be located. This, if possible, should be at a
point where the street or public road is on the same level.
After the spot for the gateway is located, the approach to
the house should be staked off by a center line of stakes. The
principal roadway should be carefully studied from every view-
point, that is, from the house site, from the gateway and from
other points where the effect will be seen, no pains being spared
to insure this being planned out in the best possible manner and
along the best possible line. When the grounds are of consider-
able extent, it should also be made sure that a glimpse of the
house will be had from one or two points along the road. The
side lines for the principal roadway should then be staked off,
these, if a driveway, being at least sixteen feet apart, or, if a
foot-path, not less than eight feet. The stakes should be at least
one and one-quarter inch square by about three feet in length,
[5]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
and driven one foot deep, leaving two feet above the ground to
mark the lines of the proposed drive or walk.
After the principal approach to the house-site has been
decided upon and staked out, the necessary walks and roads
connecting the house-site with the sites of the stables and other
outbuildings must be marked and staked in similar way as for the
main approach. It is strongly urged that care should be taken
to have these walks in reasonably direct lines, for unless they are
direct, they will not be followed, and those who are compelled
to go to the outbuildings many times a day will be sure to make
short cuts, trampling down grass and perhaps fine shrubbery, such
foot-paths and trails always giving an uncared-for effect and
being blemishes in any property.
Before beginning the planting of the trees and shrubs for
sheltering and ornamenting the grounds (this subject being fully
considered in other chapters) , the grounds should be carefully sur-
veyed and platted, the house-site, the sites of the outbuildings, the
approach and roads of all kinds being marked on the plat.
When the grades and positions of the different buildings have
been established and marked, and the approach and other roads
staked off, all the building-sites should be roughly graded, and
the fills, if any, on the roadways and walks leveled up.
But first, before beginning this rough grading, careful pro-
vision must be made for saving all of the good top-soil which may
be found on the sites of the buildings, the roads and the walks.
The importance of this will be realized when the work of plant-
ing the ground is taken up and when this good top-soil will be
of the greatest value. How often do we find that this exceedingly
valuable natural soil has been carelessly used for making fills or
road-beds and embankments, instead of having been saved for
improving the many pieces of poor soil for which this natural
top-soil would have been the covering. Every yard of such good
soil saved from grading operations can be used at some point of
the grounds where trees, shrubs and plants are to be set out.
[6]
THE PRELIMINARY PLANS
After the survey of the grounds has been platted, (as sug-
gested above, the sites of the main building and outhouses as
well as the lines of the roads and walks being marked on that
plat), the next important work will be preparing the plan of
planting, and this, in its tum, will require the most careful
consideration.
If the grounds, which are to be planted, are exposed, strong-
growing hardy trees which will stand the harsh, drying winds
will have to be selected for the outer planting or sheltering
groups, reliance being placed upon these hardy, sturdy, vigorous
growers to give shade and shelter to those tender but more orna-
mental kinds which cannot stand so much exposure.
Should the site be well sheltered naturally by trees or by
neighboring hills, or should it be in a flat open country, it will
not be necessary to plant the common, hardy trees in such large
numbers for that purpose.
Outline of Lawn and Grouping of Tree*.
[7I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
In preparing the plan of planting, care should be taken to
connect the different groups under one general plan, and not to
gather the trees and shrubs in spots or in stiff, formal lines at
equal distances apart. Perhaps the best place from which to
study the plan (of planting and grouping the trees and shrubs)
is from the house-site, the effect being judged from the points on
the house-site where the principal windows and doors and veran-
das will be. When the grounds are large enough, the main lawns
or grass plots will, of course, be located immediately about the
house, and the groups of trees with their undergrowth of shrubs
can be massed round and about the lawns, these forming the out-
lines for the grassy surface. These outlines should be made as
informal as the nature and size of the grounds will permit. Bold
points of trees and shrubbery should project into the lawn space,
and again the grassy surface should be allowed to run deep into,
as if getting lost among, the tree groups, the plan always avoid-
ing anything formal either in the shape of the grassy inlets or
of the shrubbery groups.
In this connection it is suggested that some consideration be
given to what may be termed the happy accidents of Nature's
planting, for in some of the untouched virgin spots in Nature's
garden there are scenes more soft and more beautiful than any-
thing our gardening has yet produced. Those who have under-
taken to do what we are now considering — that is, to plant a
pleasure-garden and lawns — and are in doubt as to how to estab-
lish the lines of the lawns or the groups of trees, shrubs and
flowers, may get invaluable suggestions for the arranging of
them in harmonious composition if they will, as our greatest
painters do, go into the natural forests of our hills and hillsides,
or the meadows and haughs of our valleys, and select, from
the innumerable beautiful scenes, the one whose beauty most
appeals to them and which seems to best fit the general outline
of the site for which the plans are being prepared. Then let the
measurements of this part of Nature's garden be carefully taken,
[8]
THE PRELIMINARY PLANS
figuring what are its length, and its breadth, what are the depth
and width of the grassy bays which seem to meander through the
forest, also the form and shape which these bays assume. It
will be found that Nature seldom runs straight lines and shaped
curves. Let the woody promontories be measured, figuring
how far each one projects into the meadow and noting how
Nature has done its planting, — ^how far one tree is from the
other and how harmonious the whole plan is.
After all of the trees with their names and characteristics
have been sketched into a rough map, the different shrub-
growths should next be similarly studied and sketched in, how
they are distributed being specially noted. After these, and any
other data which seem to be of importance in the general effect,
are carefully platted, let this rough sketch be laid out to scale and
reduced or enlarged to fit the plan for the proposed grounds. If
the proportions of the original are faithfully carried out and
imitated in the form and outlines of the lawns and in the character
and planting of the trees and undergrowth the result will be a
delight to the owner and an artistically laid out property.
There are numerous instances of such spots in our redwood
forests and in the Sierras. Some of the sweetest landscapes are
to be found in these mountain meadows, and they always afford
the greatest delight to the eye of taste when they are unexpect-
edly discovered, enriched, as they are, with beds and tufts of
wUdflowers, grasses and ferns.
The form and outlines of the different groups of shelter-belts
being platted, what to plant in each and what character of pic-
ture to aim for are treated in detail in Chapter II. When preparing
the plan of planting, it should be considered of the utmost im-
portance to break and soften the hard lines of groups by planting
single trees apart from the main bodies in the groups
[ii]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER II
PLANNING THE PLEASURE- GARDEN AND GROUNDS
I HE subject of this chapter is one which should
n receive very careful consideration before the work
J is actually begun, and a detailed Plan of plant-
J7 ing should be sketched out, especially keeping in
view what the effect of the trees, shrubs and plants
will be when they reach maturity. What that plan of planting
actually may be depends very greatly upon how the ground is
located.
If the site selected is on a hill, the character of the planting
will be entirely different from that of a location on a level plain,
where the situation is more likely to be well sheltered and favored
with a deep, rich soil.
In this, as in every work we undertake, the first thing to be
considered is the end in view, and the next the best means of
attaining that end. As, in the planting of a Pleasure-Garden
and Grounds, the end to be attained is how the trees and plants
shall be most effectively placed (both that they themselves shall
appear to the best advantage and also that each tree and each
group of plants and shrubs shall contribute its full proportion to
the effective laying out of the property as a whole), in order to
attain that end, it is necessary to take advantage of every point in
the natural formation of the location.
As has just been stated, the character of the planting on a
hillside site is very different from that on a site located in a shel-
tered valley. On a hillside site the ground is seldom of an even
nature, there frequently being projecting points of land or rocky
outcroppings showing through the surface. These projecting
points should be ornamented with hardy, strong-growing trees
PLANNING THE GROUNDS
such as the Pine, Eucalyptus, Acacia, Cypress, Redberry and
others of this class. No shrub, either exotic or indigenous, is so
well adapted to the planting of a rocky ridge or in the foreground
of hillside groups as our native Holly (Heteromeles arbutif olia) .
Another native which groups well in any such situation is our
evergreen shrub Oak. Like the Redberry, its leaf has a good
color, it has a semi-drooping habit of growth, it is evergreen and
grows on dry banks on any exposure either North, South, East
or West, excepting within a mile from the ocean, where, if fac-
ing the West and much exposed, it is apt to get wind-blown and
generally does not thrive so well.
Where a shrubbery effect is desired and the soil is rich, some
other shrub must be substituted, as the effect of a good soil will
be to force the Oak into tree shape and to grow too large for a
shrub effect, but where the soil is of a loose, rocky nature, and
not too rich, the evergreen native shrub Oak gives one of the best
effects possible without cultivation or irrigation.
These hardier trees are recommended also for planting on the
outer lines of groimds of the extent of about one acre or over, or
on those portions of a Pleasure-Garden which are much exposed
or beyond the reach of the hose, and, as already suggested, they
can be planted at any parts where the soil is poor.
For the planting of groups or clumps to be located immedi-
ately about the lawns or near hydrants where they can be
watered, a much larger variety of trees and shrubs may be drawn
from, the Bamboo, the Birch, the Maple, the Hawthorn, the
Lilac, the Laurel and many others giving character and com-
pleteness to the composition.
Where the groimds are as large as from three to four acres,
separate groups of each genus should be planted. For instance,
exceedingly effective groups can be formed by planting a mass
consisting of three or four varieties of Pines; another of Euca-
lyptus in variety; another of Spruce and Fir; another of a vari-
ety of evergreen Oaks; another of our native Laurel; another
[13]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
of Redwood; another of Cedar, and so on; and again, these
may be planted so as to form combinations. Such trees as the
Maple and Sycamore, or Cedar (Thuya) and Coast Redwood
combine beautifully, but it must be particularly kept in view
that grouping round-headed trees with those which are of pyra-
midal habit is a mistake. Round-headed trees must be grouped
with those of the same habit, and pyramidal trees with those
of similar form, the effect always being pleasing, but mixing
those two shapes in the same group mars the effect and ruins
the composition.
Evergreens and deciduous trees harmonize very well in a
group, provided they are of the same shape and outline. For
instance, a group formed by combining the Bamboo with the
Birch is most pleasing, both of these being of the same graceful
semi-pendulous habit.
It should, then, be remembered, in massing groups of trees
for planting, that form and habit should be studied much more
closely than any other quality.
. In planning the groups it may be found desirable and effec-
tive to form some entirely of evergreens, others entirely of de-
ciduous trees and shrubs, and others of a mixture -of both, a very
good combination being a group of our native Laurel and the
European Linden, because both are of the same graceful habit
of growth.
The same rule appUes to the planting of shrubbery masses;
the stiff and the formal should never be associated with the
rounded, free-spreading kinds — that is, the kinds whose limbs
spread wide and rest gracefully on the surface of the lawn.
In the disposition of a number of sorts of trees and shrubs
in the landscape, the same principle must be followed in produc-
ing variety and harmony. If they are mixed together in a
haphazard way, the results will very rarely be pleasing, but,
at the same time, monotony must be guarded against. For
example, groups of Oaks should not be followed by groups of
[14]
PLANNING THE GROUNDS
round-headed trees, but rather by a mass formed of such trees as
the California Laurel, while next to the Laurel might come the
Poplar or some other tree of similar column-shaped head and
symmetry. Then again, when groups meet, they might some-
times be blended together. For example, a group of Oaks,
adjoining a group of California Laurels, might be blended into
the Laurel group, by the Oaks being planted so as to overlap the
Laurels and the Laurels the Oaks, as is to be found in natural
groups.
The same rule applies to shrubs and even to flowers at the
extreme points of the groups.
When a group of Pines adjoins a group of Live Oaks, it is
always desirable to blend the two groups at the junction of the one
with the other, care being taken to avoid regular progression and
everything like formality, and it being borne in mind that
grounds- laid out according to simple plans are generally much
more pleasing than those laid out on overpretentious lines.
After the walks and drives are laid out (this subject being
fully treated in Chapter IV) the next important work should be
the mapping of the water-pipe system.
For a garden of about four acres in extent, a two-inch main
will be necessary. This main should be laid along the middle
of the ground with one and one-half inch branches laid at right
angles from the main, about one hundred feet apart from each
other (the first branch from the main to be laid fifty feet from
the fence line), and with stand-pipes and connections to fit the
hydrants also one hundred feet apart, so that any part of the
garden may be reached with a single fifty-foot length of hose.
How often do we see both amateur and professional gar-
deners struggling to reach some favorite which unfortunately
has been planted just out of reach of the last length of hose!
It should always be borne in mind that water-pipe, even of the
best quality, is much cheaper than hose, also that iron pipe lasts
in the ground at least twenty years, whereas the life of the
[17]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
average rubber hose never exceeds two years, and very often is
not more than one year.
Where a good pressure may be had from public water- works
and when the supply is steady and reliable, it may not be neces-
sary to construct a water-tank, but, where pimiping has to be
resorted to, or the public supply is liable to be shut off at times,
it is well to have a water-tank erected. The tank should be of
generous dimensions, and should be placed at least sixty feet
above the level of the groimds to be irrigated. Of course, a lower
tower would give some pressure, but the higher the source of
the water supply and the nearer it is placed to the point of dis-
tribution the better the results and the shorter the time required
to water or sprinkle the grounds, so, on the score of economy as
well as efficiency, the tank should be placed at least sixty feet in
height.
It has been deemed advisable to introduce a few planting
plans, suitable for lots and gardens of various sizes, not neces-
sarily to be rigidly adhered to in ever}^ particular, but to be used
as suggestions.
Many additional species, or their varieties, may be substi-
tuted for or added to the suggestions, care being taken however
that the principal plantings shall be of such species as are known
to succeed and do well in the locality. It should be borne in
mind that many species flourish in warm simny portions of the
State while others give best results in the cool atmosphere of
the coast regions; for instance, as stated in the text, the Oleander
is not reconamended for the cool climate of San Francisco while
the Fuchsia attains in that vicinity its most perfect growth.
[i8]
PLANTING PLANS
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Atnt/Jif
PLANTING LIST
For Lot 25' X 120'.
Group
No.
I
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
II
12
13
14
IS
16
17
18
19
20
21
Acacia melanoxylon.
Veronica decussata.
Choisya temata.
Roses.
Buxus sempervirens.
Viburnum Tinus.
Clianthus pimiceus.
Lilac.
Climbing Rose.
Escallonia.
Diervilla.
Coprosma Baueriana and Spanish Broom.
Cupressus Lawsoniana.
Crataegus Oxyacantha rubra.
Deutzia.
Myrtle.
Euon)mius.
Pittosporum.
Ligustrum Japonicum.
Erica Mediterranea.
Climbing Roses.
OfO£ty^i^
1®
p.rx/ec
[20]
PLANTING PLANS AND LISTS
PLANTING LIST
For Lot 40' X 120'.
Group
No.
I.
2.
3-
4.
5-
6.
7-
8.
9-
10.
II,
12.
13-
14.
IS-
16.
17-
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23-
24.
25-
26.
27.
28.
Sugar Maple or Sterculia.
Phoenix reclinata or Brahea sonorae.
M)nrtle.
Pittosporum tobira.
Euonymus Japonica aurea.
Escallonia rubra.
Choisya temata.
Veronica decussata.
Climbing Roses and Geraniums.
Magnolia grandiflora and Perennial
Phlox.
Coprosma Baueriana and Violets.
Cestrum aurantiacum.
Cerasus Lauro-Cerasus.
Roses.
Arbutus Unedo.
Lilac.
Acacia moUissima.
Leptospermum laevigatum.
Philadelphus.
Acacia dealbata.
Spiraea (bridal wreath).
Aucuba Japonica.
Roses.
Callistemon.
Spartium junceum.
Fuchsia.
Plumbago.
Flower Border.
»5/0£h6^L/^
^% ^ ^
^A/eo'
[21]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
PLANTING LIST
For Lot 50' X 150'.
Group
No.
1. Phoenix Canariensis.
2. Border of Violets or Ivy or
Creeping Jumper.
3. Climbing Roses, Honeysuckle,
Clematis, etc.
4. Choisya temata.
5. Veronica decussata.
6. Aralia Sieboldiana.
7. Bougainvillea.
8. Walk.
9. Aucuba.
10. Viburnum Tinus grandiflorum.
11. Pittosporum.
1 2 . Grevillea robusta.
13. Euonymus and Pyrus Japonica.
14. Acacia Cultriformis and Lilac.
15. Acacia mollissima.
16. Escallonia rosea and Philadel-
phus.
17. Acacia dealbata and Spirsea.
18. Thuya gigantea.
19. Leptospermum laevigatum and
Diervilla.
20. Bamboo.
21. Coprosma Baueriana.
22. Boxwood.
23. Aucuba Japonica.
50 X 150'
[22]
PLANTING PLANS AND LISTS
Group
No.
3-
Pitto^Mjnim eugenioides.
4.
Escallonia rosea.
5-
Choisya ternata.
6.
Euonymus Japonica aurea.
7-
Coprosma Baueriana.
8.
Bamboo.
9-
Buxus sempervirens.
II.
Wistaria.
Aucuba sempervirens.
12.
Roses.
13-
Viburnum Tinus.
14.
Roses.
15-
Acacia armata.
16.
Grevillea robusta.
17.
Cerasus Lauro-Cerasus.
18.
Cerasus Lauro-Cerasus.
19.
Lilac.
Cypress Lawsoniana.
21.
Philadelphus.
22.
Poplar.
n-
Acacia latifolia.
24.
Hawthorn and Diervilla.
25-
Birch and Leptospermum.
26.
Linden and Acacia fragrans.
Saei*^i.A
27.
-^ 28.
J29.
Ligustrum and Broom.
\ m \ \ i©~
Cestrum.
30.
Portugal Laurel
7S'tiSo'
31-
Roses and Eugenia latifolia.
32.
PLANTING UST
33-
Maytenus boaria.
ForLot75'xiso'.
34-
Group
35-
Magnolia grandiflora and
No.
Hydrangea.
I. Huntingdon Elm.
36.
Photinia arbuUfoha.
2. Retinospora obtusa.
37-
Daphne and Spinea.
I231
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
PLANTING LIST
For Lot loo' X i8o'.
Group
No.
1. Sugar Maple, Camphor or red Hawthorn.
2. Magnolia grandiflora and Aucuba Japonica.
3. Juniperus prostrata.
4. Juniperus prostrata.
5. Three plants of Retinospora in each bed, carpeted with flowers
6. Pittosporum eugenioides.
7. Boxwood or Laurus nobilis.
8. Heliotrope, Violets, Pansies, etc.
9. Standard Roses.
10. Clematis, Bignonia, Fuchsia, etc.
11. Fence covered with Honeysuckle, Climbing Roses, etc.
12. Mandevill a suaveolens, Solanum Wendlandii, etc.
13. Climbing Roses, Passion Vine, etc.
14. Monterey Cypress.
15. Pepper, Spiraea Watersii and Romneya Coulteri.
16. Acacia moUissima and Diervilla.
17. Libocedrus decurrens and Spartium juriceum.
18. Wistaria and Bignonia.
19. Wistaria and Bignonia Tweediana.
20. Pittosporum tobira and Streptosolen.
21. Ligustrum Japonicun) and Pimelia rosea.
22. Escallonia rosea. Lilac and Prunus Mume.
23. Portugal Laurel and Philadelphus.
24. Hedge of Pittosporum nigricans.
25. Euon)mius Japonica aurea.
26. Carnations, Violets, etc.
27. Climbing Roses.
28. Mandevill a suaveolens. Phlox, etc.
29. Rhododendron Catawbiense.
30. Climbing Roses, Delphinium, etc.
31. Arbutus Unedo and Ilex aquifolium.
32. Coprosma Baueriana.
[24]
1 L
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
PLANTING LIST
For Lot 150' X 200'.
Group
No,
1. Boxwood.
2. Retinospora obtusa.
3. Choisya temata and Diosma ericoides.
4. Veronica decussata and Pimelia rosea.
5. Coprosma Baueriana and Aucuba Japonica.
6. Camphor and Abelia.
7. Rhododendron or Neriiim splendens.
8. Wistaria, shading pergola.
9. Bamboo.
10. Portugal Laurel and Acacia mollissima.
1 1 . Laurus Tinus or Laurus nobilis.
12. Acacia latifolia and Philadelphus coronarius.
13. Lilac and Myrtle.
14. Albizzia Julibrissin and Spartiimi junceum.
15. Pittosporum eugenioides.
16. Hawthorn and Spiraea (bridal wreath).
17. Hedge of Ligustrum Japonicum.
18. Himtingdon Elm or Acacia melanoxylon.
19. Roses and other flowering plants.
20. Roses, Carnations, etc.
21. Fuchsias, Hydrangeas, etc.
22. Fruit Trees.
23. Pepper.
24. Monterey Cypress.
25. Geraniums.
26. Lawn.
[26]
Sr^Sl.£'
f^> ^^
i
18
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Group
No.
PLANTING LIST
For Lot 200' X 350'.
Group
No.
1. Phoenix Canariensis and Honey-
suckle.
2. Bamboo.
3. Choisya temata and Daphne.
4. Choisya temata and Duranta
plumieri.
5. Bamboo.
6. Coprosma Baueriana.
7. Pittosporum eugenioides and
Sweet-brier.
8. Maytenus boaria and Diosma
alba.
9. Maytenus Chilensis and SoUya
Drummondii.
10. Clematis Jackmanii and Ivy
Geranium.
11. Clematis Jackmanii and Ivy
Geranium.
12. Veronica decussata and Viola
cornuta.
13. Mandevilla suaveolens and
Fuchsia.
14. Wistaria and red Geranium.
15. Coronilla glauca and Cytisus
racemosus.
16. Myrtle and Carnations.
17. Juniperus Chinensis and Juni-
perus prostrata.
18. Rhododendron.
19. Camellia and Gardenia Fortuni.
20. Ampelopsis Veitchii and flower-
ing plants.
21. Retinospora obtusa and Pimelia
rosea.
22. Roses.
23. Pittosporum eugenioides and
Corynecarpus laevigatus.
24. Escallonia Montevidensis and
Honeysuckle.
25. Bamboo.
26. Arbutus Unedo and Boxwood.
27. Heteromeles serratifolia.
28. Camphor and Jasminum nudi-
florum.
29. Hymenosporum flavum and
Roses.
30. Ligustrum Japonicum and Ligu-
strum ibota.
31. Sugar Maple and Philadelphus.
32. Acacia moUissima and Pnmus
Mume.
33. Portugal Laurel and Japanese
Weeping Cherry.
34. Tilia Europea and Viburnum
opulus.
35. Pepper Trees and Leptosper-
mum laevigatum.
36. Monterey Cypress and Spartium
junceum.
37. Monterey Pine and Cistus.
38. Liquidambar and Lilac.
39. Liriodendron tulipifera and
Lilac.
40. Hedge of Blackberries.
41. Salisburia adiantifolia Ginkgo
and Tamarix.
42. Lawson Cypress and Diervilla.
43. Quercus macrophylla and La-
burnum.
44. Acacia latifolia.
[28]
^L
e<^ffi/^ csp^err -&sg«^
200' X 350'
€^«
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
t
For Lot 200' X 350' — Continued.
Group
Group
No.
No.
45. Crataegus oxyacant.ha and Cra-
52. Cedrus Libani and Streptosolen
taegus pyracantha.
Jamesonii.
46. Grevillea robusta and Erythrina
53. Abies Nordmannia and Swain-
Crista-galli.
sonia alba.
47. Thuya gigantea and Rhododen-
54. Bamboo and Pampas Grass.
dron Catawbiense.
55. Hedge of Acacia longifolia.
48. Phillyrea myrtifolia and per-
56. Ulmus montana.
ennial Phlox.
57. Juniperus prostrata.
49. Cedrus Deodora and Abelia
58. Cotoneaster.
rupestris.
59. Juniperus prostrata.
50. Abies Lowiana and Clianthus
60. Cotoneaster.
puniceus.
61. Junif)erus prostrata.
51. Prunus Caroliniana and Albizzia
62. Ulmus montana.
Julibrissin.
63. Orchard.
PLANTING LIST
For Lot 300' X 400'.
Group
No.
1. Boxwood or Nerium splendens.
2. Escallonia rosea, grown thickly
so as to form a dense screen
ten feet in height.
3. Pittosporum eugenioides.
4. Arbutus Unedo.
5. Portugal Laurel.
6. Corynecarpus and Hymeno-
sporum flavum.
7. Leptospermum laevigatum.
8. Acacia latifolia.
9. Laurus Tinus grandi flora.
10. Cerasus Lauro-Cerasus.
Group
No.
11. Bamboo.
12. Lilac, Leptospermum laeviga-
tum and Prunus Mume.
13. Acacia mollissima.
14. Lilac and Callistemon.
15. Ligustrum ovatum, Escallonia
rosea and Laurus Tinus.
16. Flower-bed.
17. Grevillea robusta and Berberis
Darwinii.
18. Umbellularia and Romneya
Coulteri.
19. Schinus moUe.
[30]
Vd-c/-r^BL£
Cy^/^DITA/
O <[)
CD <^ ^ e e
£) e t> c^ c> £> <^
&
e
C' cr e f^ ^ t> €]
e # c €i C) e
•
300' X 400'
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
For Lot 300' X 400' — Continued.
Group
No.
20. Coprosma Baueriana.
21. Brahea Sonoraea.
22. Pittosporum tobira.
23. Choisya temata and Diosma
alba.
24. Veronica decussata.
2 5 . Ulmus montana or Tilia Europea
Group
No.
26. Escallonia Montevidensis.
27. Magnolia grandiflora.
28. Maytenus boaria.
29. Hedge of Pittosporum
eugenioides.
30. Rhododendron hybridum.
PLANTING LIST
For Ten Acre Tract.
Group
Group
No.
No.
I. Hawthorn, Lilac and Eugenia
18. Olive.
latifolia.
19. Redwood, Philadelphus and
2. Cypress.
Cydonia Japonica.
3. Rock-work with Ferns.
20. Redwood and Viburnum
4. Rpck-work with Ferns.
(Snowball).
5. Acer Schwedleri.
21. Orange.
6. Acer Schwedleri.
22. Border for Vegetables.
7. Rhododendron.
23. Fig.
8. Large Palm.
24. Peach.
9. Rhododendron and Azalea.
25. Plum.
10. Rhododendron Catawbiense,
26. Apricot.
Camellia and Aucuba Ja-
27. Apricot.
ponica.
28. Peach.
II. Maple.
29. Plum.
12. Linden.
30. Cherry.
13. Eucalyptus ficifolia and Nerium
31. Cherry.
splendens.
32. Pear.
14. Escallonia and Buxus semper-
S^. Apple.
virens.
34. Nectarine.
15. Escallonia.
35- Pear.
16. Orange.
36. Apple.
17. Lemon.
37. Pear.
[32]
PLANTING PLANS AND LISTS
For Ten Acre Tract — Continued.
Group
No.
38. Apricot.
39. Acacia latifolia.
40. Acer campestre and Acacia flori-
bunda.
41. Grevillea robusta.
42. Maple.
43. Linden and Coprosma Bauer-
iana.
44. Coprosma Baueriana.
45. Corynecarpus tevigatus.
46. Araucaria imbricata and
Juniper.
47. Cryptomeria Japonica and
Cryptomeria elegans.
48. Sequoia gigantea and Habro-
thamnus.
49. Pinus, Liquidambar, Erica per-
soluta alba and Abelia rupes-
tris.
50. Pinus, Liriodendron tulipifera,
Erica and Honeysuckle.
51. Pepper.
52. Camphor and Choisya ternata.
53. Phoenix Canadensis.
54. Hymenosporum flavum and
Holly.
55. Acacia moUissima, Pittosporum
eugenioides and Romneya
Coulteri.
56. Robinia Bessoniana, Myrtle and
Laurus Tinus.
57. Abies and Thuyopsis dolabrata.
58. Prunus Pissardii and Prunus
Mume.
59. Araucaria excelsa and Retino-
spora obtusa.
Group
No.
60. Picea pungens (Blue Spruce).
61. Escallonia rubra.
62. Albizzia Julibrissin and Quercus
suber.
63. Libocedrus decurrens, Acacia
armata and Azara macro-
phylla.
64. Taxus baccata aurea.
65. Weeping Japanese Cherry.
66. Bamboo.
67. Weeping Birch and Spiraea.
68. Redwood.
69. Callistemon.
0. Bamboo.
1. Salisburia adiantifolia Ginkgo
and Pittosporum eugenioides.
2. Pittosporum eugenioides and
Diervilla rosea.
3. Magnolia and Pittosporum un-
dulatum.
4. Ligustrum ibota, Euonymus
aurea and Horse-chestnut.
5. Cedrus Deodora, Cedrus At-
lantica and Veronica.
6. Cedrus Deodora, Cedrus At-
lantica and Veronica.
7. Lawson Cypress, Veronica de-
cussata and Polygala Dal-
maisiana.
8. Large Palm.
9. Cypress hedge.
80. Populus pyramidalis and Popu-
lus carolinensis.
81. Espalier for fruit.
82. Leptospermum.
83. Bamboo hedge.
[33I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
For Ten Acre Tract — Continued.
Group
No.
A. A summer house of stone or
wood, rustic in design.
B. Six-foot walk.
C. Six-foot walk through Rhodo-
dendrons.
D. Eight-foot border in grass.
E. Niche for statuary or sun dial.
F. Low formal basin.
G. Six-foot walk.
H. Formal flower-beds.
I. Space for house-site, one hun-
dred and twenty by one hun-
dred feet.
J. Site for garage or stable.
K. Ten-foot walk leading from house
to vegetable garden, covered
by an arbor and shaded by
grape vines and Wistaria.
L. Range of glass houses.
M. Eighteen-inch walk between the
vegetable beds.
N. Vegetable beds.
O. Three-foot walk through vege-
table garden.
P. Squares for vegetables.
Q. One of the four squares sur-
Group
No.
rounded by fruit trees, the
inside of each to be treated as
O and P. Outside of the line
of fruit trees, cut flowers for
the house may be grown.
R. An espalier for trained fruit
trees, showing an eighteen-
inch walk, two feet from the
espalier.
S. Eighteen-inch alleyway for the
use of the gardener in working
on the espalier.
T. Twenty-five foot border sur-
rounding the vegetable gar-
den, to be used for small vege-
tables.
U. Fifteen-foot road.
V. Hexagonal summer house of rus-
tic design, of either stone or
wood and encircled by a small
walk.
W. Four-foot walk, girdling lake.
X. Small lake from two to three
feet in depth.
Y. A formal gateway.
NOTE. — All walks in the vegetable garden are to be edged with dwarf box.
[36]
PREPARATION OF THE GROUND
CHAPTER III
PREPARATION OF THE GROUND
FTER the house-site has been selected and the
outlines of the drive and walks have been staked,
the next operation should be grading and prepar-
ing the ground for planting. When grading or
leveling, it is necessary to remember to always
keep the good or surface soil at the top and not to bury it as is
too often done by contractors.
When the ground is graded and shaped to the lines as planned,
it should then be plowed or trenched. Where the grounds are
large, use the ordinary plow followed by the subsoil-plow; stir
the subsoil, if possible, twenty-four inches deep. After plowing,
follow with a heavy harrow, selecting dry weather and only when
the soil is reasonably dry and not wet enough to stick to the
shoes or clog the harrow- teeth ; then cross-plow and reharrow.
Should the ground be too small for plowing, trenching with
the spade must be resorted to ; and here again it is important to
bear in mind to keep the top soil for the upper layer.
Trenching should be done by first removing, at one end of the
ground, the top soil, to the depth of one foot, from a strip (three
feet wide) across the entire width of the ground, and wheeling
that top soil to the opposite end of the ground which is being
trenched. Then, with a heavy pick, stir the subsoil to an addi-
tional foot in depth, leaving the loosened subsoil in its original
place. On top of the loosened subsoil spread a layer of manure
about four inches deep. Measure from the line of the first trench,
with a yardstick, three feet at each end of the trench (that is, at
each side of the ground), and place stakes, to which stakes attach
a line, which line will thus run across the ground at a distance of
[37]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
three feet from the line of the first trench. Remove the top soil
to the depth of one foot from this strip, and place that top soil to
the depth of one foot above the manure in Trench No. i. Stir sub-
soil of Trench No. 2, and, on top of that, place a layer of manure,
as instructed for Trench No. i. Then establish the line for
Trench No. 3, in the same manner as for Trench No. 2, with the
top soil of which (Trench No. 3) Trench No. 2 will be com-
pleted, and so on trench after trench all over the ground, the sur-
face soil taken from the first opening, which had been wheeled to
the far end of the ground, being found sufiicient in quantity for
filling on top of the manure of the last trench, thus leaving the
ground level or even, and in the same shape as it was before the
work of trenching began.
Should the natural soil be composed of stiff clay, a layer of
light sandy soil or pure sand, or a heavy application of half-
decomposed stable-manure mixed freely with the soil, or, more
especially, a compost made of all three will greatly improve it.
Where the soil is of an adhesive nature, or the subsoil within
three feet of the surface is of stiff clay, drainage should be re-
sorted to, as, no matter how well the soil may be cultivated
or how heavily it may be manured, good results will be impos-
sible if the soil is water-logged. Drains should be put in about
fifteen feet apart and three feet deep with a fall of not less than
six inches in one hundred feet. Of course where water passes
freely through the soil and does not lie stagnant in the subsoil^
the putting in of drains will be imnecessary. This may be readily
found out by digging a hole with the spade after heavy rains and
observing whether the hole holds water any length of time.
Should the water percolate freely through the soil, no draining
will be required, but should the water remain in the hole for
weeks, it would be well to have the ground thoroughly drained
as directed. Tile draining is much the best and most lasting
method, but, when tiles cannot be had, a foot of rough rock placed
in the bottom of the ditch (putting the larger stones in the bot-
[38]
PREPARATION OF THE GROUND
torn and finishing with the smaller ones, covering the whole with
sods or long straw to keep the soil from choking the crevices) will
answer the purpose very well although not so lasting as the tile.
It may be stated that where there is too much water lying
stagnant in the soil, few plants will thrive, for, as soon as the
roots of the trees or other plants reach the stagnant saturated
soil, they invariably show it by their upper twigs or leaves dying
oiBF and by their eventually dying altogether.
Drain ditches should be dug just wide enough for a man to
work them out. If the top soil is loose, it should be given enough
slope to prevent the soil from crumbling into the drain when the
tile is being laid. If the soil is heavy and solid, twenty-four
inches wide at the surface of the groimd will be ample width,
tapering to the size of the tile at the bottom, so that the pipes
may bed in the solid ground accurately.
Pipe tiles are made of round shape and should be furnished
with collars as these tend to keep the tiles from shifting and also
prevent, to a large extent, roots from entering and interrupting
the flow of water. After hying them, cover the tiles with fine
crushed rock or gravel to keep the soil from entering the drains.
Where the groimd is undulating in its character, a main
drain should be laid along the lowest portion of the ground, and
lateral drains laid obliquely according to the shape of the ground,
each entering the main drain by a Y or T shaped fitting, care
being taken that each drain has a fall of at least six inches in one
hundred feet as formerly recommended.
In digging the ditches for the drains, place the top soil on
one side and the bottom soil on the opposite side so that, when
filling in the ditches, the subsoil may be replaced and the surface
soil saved for the top where it is most needed.
[391
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER IV
CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND WALKS
N THE chapter on the "Preparation of the Ground"
it was advised that, after the land had been
plowed, the subsoil plow should be used, and the
ground thoroughly harrowed, then cross-plowed and
again harrowed. Finally it may be rolled with a
two-horse roller so as to break up the lumps of earth and
leave the surface reasonably even and smooth. It has also been
advised that, in order to show the proposed lines of the drive-
ways and walks, a center line of stakes should be set according to
the adopted plan, and at the same time it was urged that the lines
of these driveways and walks should be most carefully studied
from all points until it was felt that they were the best possible.
Assuming then that these preliminary points have all been
attended to, the next step toward the construction of roads and
walks is to have two lines of stakes set equally distant from the
center line showing the width of the proposed walk or drive-
way. If for a driveway, these stakes should be set not less than
eight feet from the center line of stakes, and thus sixteen feet
apart from each other, as a driveway with a width of less than
sixteen feet would be too narrow for two carriages to pass com-
fortably, and, besides, would give the grounds a pinched con-
tracted appearance.
If the stakes are being set for a foot-path, they should be
set four feet from the center stakes, and thus eight feet apart
from each other. A foot-path eight feet wide has enough width
and looks well in the grounds.
As formerly suggested, it is again urged that all the good
surface soil should be removed from the proposed road-bed
[401
CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND WALKS
(whether of driveway, walk, or any other contemplated gravel
surface) and spread over those parts of the grounds where the
natural soil is poor and shallow, or, if not required for that pur-
pose, in any low spots which may need leveling up.
When this is done, the center line, as well as the side Unes of
stakes, should be carefully reset about every fifteen feet along
the proposed roadway. Then three lines of levels must be run
along the road-bed, one in the middle and one on each side. The
Walk with Rustic Benches. Background of Pines and Firs.
[41I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
cuts and fills must now be figured out, and the grade established,
the quantities of soil to be moved being carefully figured so
that the cuts and fills will balance each other, always keeping
in view the economy of having the dirt moved as short a distance
as possible.
After this is all calculated, it is time to have the grade-stakes
set, one at the base of each of the line-stakes.
When setting the border grade-stakes, it must be seen that
the stakes, on opposite sides of the road to be graded, are set
exactly level with each other, for unless the two borders of the
roadway or foot-path are level, not only does the road never
look well, but it is not comfortable to walk or drive over. As
the grade-stakes will be set alongside the line-stakes, they also
will be at intervals of fifteen feet on the roadway, it being inad-
visable to have them further away from each other. These grade-
stakes should have sawed, square ends not less than one inch square.
After the border grade-stakes have been put in place, still
another line of grade-stakes should be set, at equal distances
apart, along the line of the road-bed, to guide the workmen in
the grading of the surface. These grade-stakes should be set
so as to give the road-bed a crown of one in sixty; for example,
if the roadway is sixteen feet wide, it should be about three and
one-half inches higher in the middle than at the sides, so that
the rains will run off the middle of the road toward the sides,
leaving the center of the roadway dry. Great care must be taken
in this part of the work, as a road or walk has not a good appear-
ance when there is too great a rise in the middle, and that such a
road or walk is inconvenient and almost unpleasant for walking
or driving over, will be evident. In staking the rise, the width
of the road must always be taken into consideration, otherwise
great mistakes may be made, and a walk which is eight feet
wide should have no more than the proportion just mentioned,
which would be a rise of one and three-quarter inches from the
sides to the middle.
[42]
CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND WALKS
Fonnal Gardening. Walki Convcrgrng to Fountain. BBdcffmiiid Heavily Wooded.
At each of the grade-stakes, stout witness-stakes should be
set, close against each grade-stake, and projecting about two
feet higher, so that in the event of the grade-stakes being covered
over with dirt, they may always be located by the witness-stakes,
and thus the work will not be delayed through a surveyor having
to be found to locate the lines or the grades.
For a driveway, the border grade-stakes should be set eight
inches above the proposed finished gravel surface, thereby giving
room for five inches of crushed rock and one inch of fine finishing
rock, and thus leaving the border of soil about two inches above
the finished rolled surface of the roadway.
For a walk, the same course in grading should be pursued,
only in this case the border should be graded six inches above the
grade of the walk instead of eight inches as recommended for the
[431
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
driveway. This would give four inches for the depth of rock,
that depth being sufficient for a foot-path.
When these stakes for the driveway have all been set, the
roadway can now be leveled to the required grade, namely, eight
inches below the top of the established border grade-stakes, and
six Inches below the top of the road-bed grade-stakes.
Of course, some portions of the natural grade will be found
to be above and other portions below the proposed grade of the
driveway, but, all this having been carefully planned out as
suggested earlier in this chapter, the portions of the roadway
which are too high will now be moved to fill up to grade where
the ground is too low. This part of the work is very easily
carried out when it has previously been carefully planned and
has also been surveyed and staked, so that the workmen will
know both how deep to cut and to what grade they are to fill in.
Various materials may be used for the bottoming of roads
and walks, such as stone, brickbats, clinkers, or, in short, any
hard substance which contains nothing that would injure the
roots of the plants. It is important to keep this in view, as plants
situated near the border of a road quite frequently send their
roots imder the road-bed, and, if material injurious to plants were
used, the plants could not fail to suffer. Each neighborhood
generally has some local quarry which contains rock quite good
enough for forming roads or walks for a pleasure-garden and
grounds. Crushed rock of a brown color has a much better
color effect, as contrasted with the green of lawns or shrubbery,
than rock which is of a gray or white shade.
Before commencing to haul the rock for bottoming the road-
bed, it should be seen that the road-bed is well shaped, evenly
crowned, and rolled hard, for unless the road-bed is properly
shaped before the rock is spread, it is almost impossible to get a
good road, because the foundation rock would necessarily be of
uneven depth and could not be evenly rolled. Besides, leaving
the road-bed uneven would be the cause of greater expense, as
[44]
CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND WALKS
Driveway showing California Laurel (to the left of Illustration) and Oaks ;
also Ivy-Covered Stump.
the road would, in that case, have to be evened up by rock, and,
as the expense of hauling rock is very considerable on account
of it generally having to be brought from some distance, it would
be much more exp)ensive to fill up a road-bed in this way than by
grading it with dirt from the grounds.
The road-bed then being in shape and rolled smooth and hard,
the work of setting the bottom rock should be commenced. Any
kind of rock will be found good enough for the foundation layer
of the drivew^ay, provided it is not over two inches or two inches
and a half in diameter, A mixture of all sizes up to six or eight
inches in diameter does not make a good roadway, for it cannot
be rolled evenly, nor does it form a close finish, as it leaves large
open spaces and hard unevennesses. This bottom layer should
be evenly spread about five inches deep. After the rolling is
[45)
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
all done, the surface should be gone over with a shovel, and
any ruts or chuck-holes which may have been left by the wagon
wheels should be filled in, the object being to leave the whole
surface as even as possible. It should then be rolled with a heavy
roller at least three times, or until perfectly smooth. There must
then be a layer of finishing rock or gravel which will pass through
a half-inch mesh, spread evenly over the entire surface about
one inch deqi and rolled into proper condition.
This finishing coat, as a rule, is not put on until all the heavy
work on the roads (such as hauling material for buildings and
planting the grounds) has been completed.
Walk Lined with Dracaenas.
[46I
PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING
CHAPTER V
PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING
[HEN the ground has been got ready for the reception
of plants m accordance with the suggestions made
in Chapter III, the next operation is the planting
of the trees and shrubs according to the plan which
it has been strongly advised should be carefully
prepared in full detail before the actual work of planting is
begun.
It will be remembered that if the place is large, the ground
should have been plowed, and the subsoil plowed, cross-plowed
and harrowed, or, if the place is too small for plowing, that the
ground should have been trenched and then raked to an even
surface.
The soil then having been thoroughly cultivated and being
in good condition to be worked (that is, neither so wet that it
will stick to the spade or trowel when being dug up or to the
feet when treading it, nor, on the other hand, too dry and hard),
mild weather with a moist atmosphere must be selected for the
time of planting. If the air is very dry and a harsh wind blowing,
the work must be postponed until the dry spell is over, as a
plant transplanted under these conditions is apt to suffer. If,
however, the transplanting has to be done in very dry weather,
shading must be resorted to until the plants make fresh roots.
This is more necessary in the case of evergreens than of plants
which are without leaves, for the reason that in those plants
having leaves, the surface from which evaporation takes place
is much larger (being at least six times greater) than in similarly
sized plants not having leaves.
Deciduous trees may be safely transplanted in any month
[47]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
between the fall of the leaf in Autumn and the swelling of the
bud in Spring, provided, of course, the soil is in good condition.
Our hardy, native Pine and Cypress do well if transplanted
in November, December, January or February.
Eucalyptus, Acacia, and most of our New Holland, Aus-
tralian and New Zealand plants do best if the planting or trans-
planting is delayed until Spring, or until the danger from heavy
rains and cold weather has passed.
The operation of planting varies according to the nature of
the plant and the natural disposition of the soil. Some plants
root deeply, sending strong taps into the soil, while the roots of
others creep along close to the surface. It must be carefully
kept in view, when planting, that the roots should be placed as
nearly as possible in the same position as they were before they
were removed from their previous location. .
In transplanting deciduous trees, they should be taken up
very carefully so as to preserve as many of the roots as possible,
the constant aim being to prevent injury not only to the roots,
but also to the branches so that they may have few wounds and
bruises to heal when in their new quarters.
After the ground has been prepared carefully in accordance
with the former suggestions, the hole must be dug for the recep-
tion of the roots of the plant to be transplanted. The size of the
hole, of course, depends upon the size of the plant, but it is
better to make it too large than too small. If it is made too
small the roots are very liable to get cramped and crowded into
wrong positions. The hole should be large enough to allow all
of the roots to be spread out to their full length and in their
natural positions; the depth of the hole should permit the neck
of the plant to be as near the surface of the ground as it was
originally.
There is a difference of opinion as to whether the hole should
be circular or square. The square form should by all means be
preferred, not only because it is dug more quickly, but also for
[48]
PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING
«
another reason of greater importance: — ^when the roots, in their
natural extension by growth, reach the wall of a circular hole,
they are in danger of following the line of the circular wall and
thus confining themselves into a space the size of the original
circular hole, instead of extending into the wall and thus into
the adjoining soil as they will certainly do when the hole is a
square one.
When digging the hole, the best soil should be placed on one
side, and the poorer soil on the opposite side. The hole should
be made quite as wide at the bottom as at the top and should be
deeper at the sides than in the middle, and thus the surplus
water will nm to the sides of the basin rather than lodge in the
center.
After the hole has been got ready, the plant should be ex-
amined. If the top is not uniform and equally balanced, it must
be pnmed into uniform proportion. It must then be carefully
seen that the roots are not matted or crowded. If the roots are
found to be matted or crowded they must be disentangled and
cut back to sound wood, and, if any of them are bruised, these
should be cut back with a sharp knife. The roots should then
be placed in the prepared spot to find out whether the hole is of
the proper depth. It may be found that the neck of the plant is
too high or too low, and the hole must be lowered or filled in, as
may be necessary, to remedy this, it being always borne in mind
that the bottom of the hole on which the roots are to rest should
be of convex form, not only for the reason just mentioned re-
garding the drainage of the water, but so that the roots will
point in a downward direction as in their natural state, rather
than in an upward direction as too often happens from neglect
of this precaution. The roots should also be as equally dis-
tributed over the surface of the bottom of the hole as possible,
or as nearly so as they were before transplanting, and as their
nature will permit.
A light spreading of fine, well-pulverized soil should then
[51]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
be spread over the roots to the depth of about two mches, the
soil being thrown from the stem of the plant toward the ends of
the roots. This is of considerable importance, as the throwing
of the soil from the ends of the roots toward the stem has a
tendency to double up the roots, not only thereby injuring them
by twisting, but, when they start into growth, causing them to
grow toward the stem and to crowd into bunches and mat
around the stem, instead of starting away from the stem in
search of fresh soil, as they would do under natural circumstances.
When the roots are covered with two inches of soil, it is
necessary to shake the stem a little so as to get all the soil settled
among the roots. Then the hole should be filled in, to within
three inches of the top, and should be given a good soaking of
water. The hole should be filled with water two or three times,
this being allowed to entirely soak away; when the hole is partly
dry, it should be filled up to the top with soil.
Should the tree, which is being planted, be over four feet
in height, it would be well to stake it with a stout pole, the tree
being tied securely to the pole to prevent the action of the wind
from moving the tree before it has made fresh roots.
In the case of a large deciduous tree, the stake should be
driven into the bottom of the hole before planting, and the
roots spread about the stake, for, if the stake should be driven
into the ground after the tree is set out and the hole filled in,
the driving in of the stake would very likely injure and disturb
the roots.
If a stake should be required for an evergreen plant, it should
be driven obHquely into the side of the hole and clear of the
roots, and, of course, the plant should be tied securely to the
stake.
In staking or supporting a newly planted tree or shrub, great
care must be taken to prevent the bark from being injured through
rubbing against the stake. In order to prevent this, a padding
•of old rubber or a wisp of straw, or some other soft material,
[52]
PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING
should be placed between the stake and the stem of the tree. A
plant, which has been staked, should be examined about once
a month to see that the tie is not cutting into the bark by the
natural swelling of the stem, or that the padding has not been
forced out of position, thus allowing the bark to rub against the
stake by the action of the wind.
After the planting and staking is all completed, it is a good
plan to mulch the ground with horse-manure half-rotted, spread
to a depth of about three inches. Mulching is a good means of
preserving the moisture and keeping the soil at an even tempera-
ture. It also prevents the soil from cracking, and proves beneficial
through its substance being washed into the soil by rains or
artificial watering.
When it is desired to move large trees and shrubs for trans-
planting, the following method is recommended as one which
has been thoroughly tried and proved to be effective.
In April or May a year before the tree or shrub is to be moved,
dig, around it, a trench deep enough to reach the main side-roots^
cut all the side roots with a sharp knife; encase the ball of earth
surrounding the tree roots with boards of sufficient strength,
care being taken that there be a space of three inches clear be-
tween the ball of earth and the boards. Fill this three-inch
space with good friable sandy loam mixed with leaf-mold (in
the proportions of two parts loam and one part leaf-mold)
tamping the soil firmly with a piece of stick about eighteen inches
long by one inch by two inches; then fill in the soil about the
encasement and give a good watering.
The following year, when the plant will be ready for removal,
dig around the encasement and excavate under the tree or shrub,
cutting the tap roots and bottoming the box with boards of suffic-
ient strength. If the tree or shrub is more than ten feet in height,
nail a board to each comer of the box, these boards to be the
height of the tree and braced by strips nailed to each. After the
boards are in place and properly braced, tie the stem of the tree
[53]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
to each of the four upright boards so that there will be no risk of
the stem moving either at the root or at the top; then raise the
box containing the tree or shrub by hydraulic pump jacks or by
other raising apparatus and load it on a truck to be moved to the
place selected.
Before moving the tree or shrub have the selected site prop-
erly graded. Dig a hole of the proper depth and at least six feet
wider than the ball of the tree to be transplanted, having a suflBc-
ient quantity of good soil ready to fill the hole; lower the tree into
the hole, taking oS the boards; fill in with the good soil, tamping
it firmly; for every three inches of fill give a good watering. See
that the tree or shrub is stoutly staked, or, if very tall, braced
with four guy ropes equally distanced. Attach the guy ropes to
stakes driven into the ground at a distance from the^tree equal
to its height.
Lavm Outline. Eocalyptut and Conifers.
l54l
LAWNS
CHAPTER VI
LAWNS
,N PREPARING the part of the site which it has been
decided shall be laid out in Lawn, it is of great im-
portance, and will prove to be true economy, to see
that the preliminary work is done with the utmost
carefulness, for if proper care is taken at this
stage, there will not be the annoyance, the loss of time and
the expense of having to dig up the lawn and practically do the
work over again, which so often has been experienced by owners
of homes where the lawns were made by men who either were
careless or did not thoroughly understand what was necessary
to be done.
As this preliminary work varies to a certain extent according
to the class of soil, it will be well in this chapter on Lawn-making
to refer to the four most usual classes of soil met with, namely,
clay, brown loam, black dobe and light sandy soil.
When the soil is clay, it is necessary that it be trenched
at least two feet deep. If the work is done in the Summer sea-
son, the soil should be turned up and left in rough condition
as long as possible — say about six weeks — ^until it gets thor-
oughly dry and warmed by the sun. It then must be generously
manured (the best for this purpose being light stable-manure
well-rotted), this manure to be spaded in one spade deep, care
being taken that the soil is thoroughly pulverized and broken
as the work goes along. It should then be shaped and graded and
raked smooth, rolled with a light roller and then raked again,
the lawn being now ready for the seed, but it is strongly advised
that, before the grass seed is sown, the first crop of weeds should
be allowed to germinate, and that then the ground be gone over
[55]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
with a light scuffle hoe which will kill all the weeds if the hoe-
ing is done in dry weather. Taking this extra precaution will
save the grass from afterwards ha\dng to struggle for existence
with the weeds. This hoeing will leave the ground too rough
for seed, so it must be raked again before sowing.
The grass which makes the best lawn, and the lawn most
easily kept in satisfactory condition, is Kentucky Blue Grass.
The mixing of clover or any other grass seed with Kentucky Blue
Grass seed is not reconunended. When purchasing the seed,
see that it is perfectly clean and fresh, the quantity required
being about half a pound of seed to one hundred and fifty square
feet of lawn. It must be sown as evenly as possible, a time for
sowing being selected when there is absolutely no wind; as the
seed is very light too much stress cannot be laid upon this point.
Inunediately after sowing, the ground must be raked very lightly
with an iron rake. The raking must be done lightly, as none
of the seed must be moved or dragged into bunches, the object of
this raking being to cover the seed not more than a quarter of
an inch, and to have it as evenly distributed as can be managed.
When doing this, the one who rakes must have two wide boards
to stand upon and walk over, so that his feet will not mark or
indent the surface of the soil, as such indentations, of course,
would make an uneven lawn. If this Kentucky Blue Grass seed
can be successfully sown, it makes the best lawn, the closest
turf, and the most velvety surface, and is well worth the extra
preliminary trouble. The other strong grass seeds, as the English
Rye and the Orchard, are apt to run into bunches and tufts.
It is well to remember that the results from the Kentucky
Blue Grass seed are considerably slower than from the coarser
grasses. With this grass it takes about three months to form a
turf when the seed is sown in the best season, which, in the
middle and northern counties of California, is during April and
May, or immediately after the cold rains are past. In the Southern
and frostless regions this grass may be sown earlier in the year.
1 56]
LAWNS
No water should be applied to the lawn until the seed has
been in the ground at least two days. Then the ground should
be given a thorough soaking and should be kept continually
moist (by watering once daily during dry weather, the evening
being the best time for this watering) until the young growth
is at least one inch high when three waterings per week should
be enough.
When the young grass is about one inch high, the lawn
should be gone over again with a light roller, the one who does
the rolling being careful to use two boards similarly to when
raking as suggested above, these two boards being necessary for
the same reason, namely, to avoid indenting the lawn by boot
marks. After this, all that is required is to water when dry, and
mow as often as is necessary, which in ordinary circumstances is
about once a week.
Should a rougher lawn than this be required, or, in the Win-
ter months should a lawn effect be desired more quickly than
Lawn with Tree Croups.
[S7l
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
can be secured from Kentucky Blue Grass, English or Australian
Rye Grass will give a good lawn effect during that part of the
year. Treat the ground as recommended above for Kentucky
Blue Grass. Sow the Rye Grass seed (not mixed with any other
seed) thickly, and rake in a httle deeper than the other, say
from three-eighths to one-half an inch in depth, otherwise care-
fully keeping in view the same suggestions regarding sowing,
watering, etc., as for Kentucky Blue Grass.
In some instances Bermuda Qrass has been used for lawns,
but on account of its dry, dead effect during Winter, and the
fact that it is difficult to eradicate, it is not considered suitable
for a good lawn, and is certainly not to be compared with the
others in any way.
With reference to what is said in this chapter as to the in-
advisabiUty of mixing Clover or anything else with Blue or
Rye Grass, and as to the results obtained from these grasses, it
should be mentioned that experiments have been made with
Lippia reptans, which is a dwarf creeping-plant with a small
oval leaf and a purple flower. This has been tried and even
recommended as a substitute for grass. These experiments have
not been successful, and, as the prevailing color effect is a purplish
gray, it lacks the refreshing green effect of a good grass lawn.
With regard to Clover, which is of a strong growth, it re-
quires more water than grass and spreads so as to kill the grass.
One great objection to Clover is the stubby effect when newly
cut, and as a good lawn should be cut about once a week, this
is of great importance. There are many other grasses which
might be sown, but they are either too fine or too coarse for
practical lawn purposes.
In young lawns, notwithstanding the killing of the first crop
of weeds, as explained in the early part of this chapter, it is to
be expected that many weeds will germinate and grow with the
grass, but these must be weeded out as soon as they are large
enough to be pulled up, especially those weeds which have per-
[58]
LAWNS
ennial roots such as the Thistle, the Dock and the Dandelion.
On no account should the Dandelion be allowed to seed. It
must be eradicated at once, because if only one flower-stalk or
head is allowed to ripen its seeds, it will completely ruin a lawn
in a short period. There are myriads of seeds in one of these
flower-tops, and when they are allowed to spread they spring up
in a few days and do an immense amount of damage.
When the soil is of brown loam or black dobe, the treat-
ment above suggested applies equally well, but it must be kept
in view that should the soil be brown friable loam naturally
well drained, all that is necessary at the beginning is to grade
the ground in the shape desired, and, instead of, as in the case
of clay soil, trenching two feet deep, digging one foot or one
spade in depth will be enough. The applying of manure and
the rest of the work should be done as advised in the case of
clay soil.
If the natural soil of the site, where the lawn is to be, is poor
sand, this sand must be removed to the depth of at least one foot
and replaced with good loam. The loam should then be manured
and the rest of the work done exactly in the same way as recom-
mended for the other soils.
[59]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER VII
TREES AND SHRUBS
■ HE Abelia rs one of our most free- flowering shrubs,
3 being in flower nearly every month of the year.
J It is neat and compact in its habit of growth and
2 is excellent for finishing groups of stronger-
growing shrubs.
The flowers of the Abelia,
which are lilac or pink and bell-
shaped, are sweet-scented and
pretty.
There are four varieties of
the shrub, Abelia rupestris and
Abelia serrata (natives of China) ,
Abelia floribunda (a native of
Mexico) and Abelia triflora (a
native of India). They flourish
in any good garden soil and in
any situation which is not too
much exposed.
Abdia nipestris. Xhe Abelia rupestris, grouped
with Veronica decussata, Maytenus boaria or Leptospermum
Iffivigatum makes a very effective combination, all of these being
of similar habit.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold in a cold
frame during September or October. When rooted, they should
be placed in three-inch pots and given root-room as required.
[60]
Abies Mertensiana.
TREES AND SHRUBS
Abies {Fir)
A genus of about twenty-five species, all giving a grand effect
in the landscape, whether in group form or singly in the park or
lawn. Most of the species are lofty
conifers, massive, s3Tnmetri€al and
handsome, many of them with the
under side of the leaves of a silvery
white. All are hardy and delight in a
cool moist atmosphere and a well-
drained soil.
A number of die finest of the
species are indigenous to California,
Abies amabilis, Abies grandis, Abies
Douglasii, Abies bracteata and
Abies Mertensiana preferring the
cool coast counties, while our other
indigenous species, including Abies Abies Morinda.
nobilis, Abies magnifica, Abies Pattoniana, Abies concolor, etc.,
seem to prefer the high valleys and ridges of the Sierras. --Ttlany of
the exotic species, such as Abies Nordmannia from the Crimea,
Abies pectinata from Central Europe, Abies cephalonica from
Greece, and all of the Asiatic species, such as Abies Morinda,
seem to be at home with our natives, and, when growing side
by side, with the same exposure and treatment, do equally welL^
The Eastern species, including the beautiful Abies balsamea,
seem also to thrive, especially when given a sheltered half-shady
situation.
Propagate by seeds sown, in February, one-eighth of an inch
deep, in a cool frame; give them plenty of air and protect them
from small birds until they are three inches high when they
should be pricked off, two inches apart, into boxes, left there one
year, and then transplanted into nursery rows.
[631
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Abutilon {Bell-flower)
A class of shrubs noted for their free-flowering and showy-
appearance, belonging to the mallow family. Few excel them
as ornamental flowering shrubs
for decorating the shrubberj',
especially if they are given a
sheltered situation on a sloping
bank where the flowers may be
viewed from below. They thrive
well in any good garden soil
with ordinary treatment.
There are many varieties,
including Abutilon admiration,
Abutilon fire king, Abutilon pur-
purea, Abutilon Boule de Niege,
etc., besides many variegated
Abutilon. forms, all worthy of cultivation.
Propagate by cuttings inserted, in pots or boxes, in soil com-
posed of half sand half well-decomposed leaf-mold, in Jxily or
August. Place them in a cold frame and shade them for a few
days.
Acacia
A genus of highly ornamental and decorative shrubs or trees,
natives of New Holland, South America and North Africa.
Most of the evergreen species came originally from Australia
and are among our special favorites. All are vigorous growers
and abundant bloomers. If carefully selected, they may be had
in bloom every month of the year, beginning with Acacia longi-
folia, which flowers in January, followed closely by the beauti-
ful fem-leaved Acacia mollissima, with its great masses of sul-
phur-yellow racemes on a tree from forty to sixty feet in height,
with a spread of branch as much in diameter. This stands with-
out a rival as a flowering tree in our early Spring months.
[641
TREES AND SHRUBS
The Acacia is a very extensive genus, the number of species
being nearly four hundred. Over one hundred species have been
introduced into California and ahnost
all of them have proved to be perfectly
hardy, growing freely in any soil and
standing exposure to our harshest winds,
while one, at least, rivals our hardiest
trees in standing salt winds, growing
almost within touch of salt spray on the
poorest land.
Among the best of the shrubby
species are Acacia armata, Acacia cul-
triformis, Acacia Baileyana, Acacia flori-
bunda, Acacia lineata, Acacia longifolia,
Acacia Riceana, etc., and of those which
assume tree form, Acacia dealbata, AcacU annau.
Acacia decurrens, Acacia mollissima, Acacia melanoxylon and
Acacia lophanta.
Acacia Baileyana, one of the earliest to bloom, opens its
great bundles of yellow flowers early in January. Its silvery
fem-Iifee foliage, blending
with its beautiful flowers,
makes it a charming object
in garden or shrubbery.
It grows to the height of
thirty feet. Acacia mol-
lissima blooming in Feb-
ruary, Acacia pycnantha
flowering in early Sum-
mer, Acacia cultriformis
a little later and Acacia
Acada lophanta. calamifolia in late FaU,
make a continuous season of bloom throughout the year.
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in a
[6s I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
cold frame or greenhouse in March; prick them out into pots or
boxes when they are three inches high and plant them out in
permanent quarters the following Spring.
Acer {Maple)
A genus of highly ornamental, hardy, deciduous trees or
shrubs greatly valued for the effect produced either when planted
in group-form in our large grounds or when growing as single
trees on the margins of lawns or again as sidewalk trees on
sheltered streets. The Maple loves a sheltered situation in a soft
moist soil, and plenty of water at the root during the growing
season.
Acer negundo stands exposure better than any other species,
and, in good soil, makes a fine shade tree even when given con-
siderable exposure. Acer macrophyllum, our native species,
becomes a handsome tree of large proportions with a stately
stem often three feet or more in diameter and branches to the
height of twenty feet, its spread of limbs shading an area from
seventy-five to one hundred feet across.
Acer campestre, the English Maple, is a small tree with small
cordate leaves.
Acer Japoniciun, the Japanese Maple, and its varieties make
an effective shrubbery group, their deeply cut, variously tinted
leaves being very beautiful.
Acer saccharinum, the Sugar Maple, is one of the very best
of our deciduous trees. Where given good soil and a situation
not too greatly exposed it makes a fine tree either for the side-
walk or as a single specimen on the lawn.
Acer Schwedleri gives beautiful color effects in early Spring
and also in the Fall.
Our native Acer circinatum, the dwarf species of Acer Japoni-
cimi and its varieties, and the many varieties of Acer palmatum
[66]
TREES AND SHRUBS
make beautiful shrubs early in Spring when the young leaves
first open, and again in the Fall when they take on their Autumn
tints of red and yellow.
Propagate by seeds sown, as soon as ripe in Autumn, in the
open ground, covering the seeds about one-quarter of an inch deep.
The rarer varieties and the variegated forms are propagated by
grafting in Spring or by budding in Sununer on the common
species.
AcHANiA {Turk's Cap)
The Turk's Cap (named from its scariet cap-like flower) is a
very pretty evergreen flowering
shrub with heart-shai)ed leaves
of pale-green, belonging to the
genus Malvaceje. It requires a
sheltered situation and partial
shade (such as under the
branches of a deciduous tree
away from strong simshine and
protected from frost) and grows
freely in any good soil not too
heavy.
Propagate by placing cut-
tings of half-ripe wood in sandy
soU in a cool frame in September AA«rti MaNavteois.
and shading them from sunshine until rooted; when rooted, pot
them singly in three-inch pots and plant them out the following
Spring.
jEscuLUS {Horse-cheslnut)
A well-known hardy ornamental deciduous tree with showy
flowers and compound leaves, well adapted for single specimens
[671
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
on large lawns. It does well in any good deep soil protected from
the harsh wind.
There are several fine species including j^sculus hippocEis-
tanum (the common European variety), ^sculus Califomica
(the common Buckeye), /Esculus glabra (the Ohio Buckeye) and
a red- flowering variety named /Esculus camea; all are handsome
and very desirable.
Plant the seeds, as soon as gathered, one inch deep in nurserj'
rows one foot apart; replant them in their permanent situations
when they are four feet in height.
Albizfia Julibrissin
One of the most beautiful of our small flowering trees, of wide-
spreading habit with fern-like foliage and great sprays of delicate
pale-pink flowers, blossoming in
July and August after most of
our flowering trees are past
bloom.
The full effect of the beauty
of this most interesting tree is
had when it is planted on a rising
ground, against a background of
pine or other dark foliage, in the
full sunlight in which it seems to
delight. In the warm interior
valleys it should do exceedingly
well if planted in good, well-
Aibizzia juiibriuin. drained soil and given some
attention in the way of cultivation and a little water occasionally
at its roots.
It should be grown extensively both in the garden and as a
sidewalk tree.
[681
TREES AND SHRUBS
Being a native of Armenia and the Levant it thrives in the
climatic conditions along our coast and even in San Francisco.
Wherever it has been planted and given a little care it has
proved to be one of the best trees for showing grand effects in late
SimMner and early Fall.
It should not be planted in heavy clay soil or in a situation
where water lies on the surface at any time.
Propagate by seeds, sown one-quarter of an inch deep in heat,
in February or March (or as soon as received); give pot-room
as required. Cuttings are seldom successful.
Alnus (Alder)
A genus of hardy deciduous trees or shrubs which delight
in moist situations, preferably on the banks of a perennial run-
ning stream. They form handsome, upright, clean-stemmed trees
with roundish leaves and grow to the height of from fifty to eighty
feet. They are not particular as to soil, provided they are given
plenty of water at the root and a sheltered situation.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, in the open ground
and covered not more than one-quarter of an inch deep; the
following Winter, plant them in nursery rows one foot apart;
when they are three feet high, replant them where they are to
remain.
Aloysia citriodora {Sweet-Scented Verbena)
Hardy deciduous shrubs with sweet-scented leaves and incon-
spicuous lilac-colored flowers. In the Eastern States and in
Europe these shrubs are grown in the greenhouse where they are
general favorites for cutting. In California they grow to the
height of ten feet or more, having trunks six inches (and even
greater) in diameter. They flourish in any good garden soil and
stand a reasonable amount of exposure.
[69]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Propagation of the Aloysia is eflfected by cuttings of the young
wood placed in sandy soil in a cool frame in early Summer.
They should be shaded, during sunshine, for a period of two
weeks and should be potted singly in two-inch pots as soon as
the cuttings are rooted.
Amygdalus (Almond)
This well-known hardy, ornamental, deciduous, vigorous
grower is one of the earliest and most free-flowering of our
trees and shrubs, the common single sometimes opening its pink
blossoms as early as the middle of January, followed by the
double-flowered varieties which succeed each other carrying the
season well into April.
Any good soil, if well drained, suits the Almond, and, if the
soil is kept cultivated, the tree requires no artificial irrigation
except in very dry seasons.
The single flowered species are propagated by seeds planted
one inch deep in the open groimd, in Fall or early Spring, and
the double varieties by budding on the common Almond or on
seedling plum-stocks in Siunmer.
Araucaria
A genus of noble evergreen trees of vigorous habit and formal
symmetrical outline, having horizontal branches in regular
whorls, natives of South America and Australia. All are very
desirable trees for large grounds and parks.
They delight in a good strong loam free from stagnant mois-
ture but must have frequent waterings at the roots during the
Summer months
Araucaria BidwiUi, Araucaria brasiliana, Araucaria Cookii,
Araucaria excelsa, and Araucaria imbricata all make splendid
ornamental trees in this climate.
[70]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Propagate by seeds planted point down and pressed into the
soil half their length, as soon as received (no matter at what time),
in a cold frame and left without being disturbed until the follow-
ing Spring when they should be planted in nursery rows and
again transplanted each year until large enough to be placed in
their permanent sites.
Arbutus
Among the many species of Arbutus are several of our most
handsome evergreen trees. The Madrone (Arbutus Menziesii)
and the Strawberry tree (Arbutus Unedo) both do splendidly in
CaUfomia. Their large, glossy, smooth leaves of elliptical shape,
their fragrant, heath-like, white flowers and their bunches of red
or yellow berries in the Autiman make them features in the land-
scape or shrubbery.
Propagate by sowing the seeds in the open ground as soon
as they are ripe, covering them to the depth of a quarter of an
inch. Transplant the seedlings, when a year old, into nursery
rows, setting them six inches apart. They should be replanted
each year xmtil they become large enough to be planted where
they are to remain.
AucuBA Japonica
A genus of evergreen hardy shrubs with smooth and glossy
laurel-like leaves, bearing bunches of scarlet berries late in the
Fall. They are exceedingly effective in the shrubbery during the
Winter months when color is most needed. They delight in
plenty of water during the growing season.
They make handsome veranda plants, grown in large pots or
boxes, especially when in fruit. There are several varieties with
variegated foliage such as picta alba variegata, bicolor and aurea.
To insure a good supply of the very ornamental berries, which
are produced on the female plant only, hand fertilizing may be
[71]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
necessary. The time for applying the pollen is when the pistil
exudes a slightly gummy substance. Should the pollen be ripe
before the pistU is mature, it may be preserved by being collected
on a piece of dry paper and kept in a dry place. It should be
applied with a camel's hair brush. The pollen retains its power
for two weeks or perhaps a little longer. Any well-drained garden
soil suits the Aucuba, and any situation not in the glaring hot
sun. It does remarkably well even in the dust and smoke of the
city.
Propjagate by cuttings from short-jointed half-ripe wood
placed in sandy soil in a cool frame in September; shade during
sunshine for the first two weeks. It can also be propagated by
sowing the seeds one-quarter of an mch deep as soon as ripe or in
March. Remove the fleshy coating from the seeds before sowing.
Azalea
A genus of evergreen or deciduous flowering shrubs which
should be seen in every collection as they are all free-flowering
and of good habit of growth.
They delight in a half-
shady situation, protected
from harsh winds and
strong simshine, and away
from cold draughts. They
prefer a light sandy soil and
abundance of water within
reach of their roots.
Propagate by cuttings
of half -ripe wood taken off
Aaaiea, with a heel in Jxme or July;
insert them in pots filled
with soil composed of half silver-sand, half leaf-mold well mixed
together; place them in a cool frame, and shade during sunshine,
[721
TREES AND SHRUBS
until rooted. When rooted, plant them in small pots and return
them to the frame; shade them until they form fresh roots when
they should be placed in a shady spot out of doors or preferably
in a lath-house, the object being to keep the plants as cool as
possible.
The evergreen species seem to do best when grown in pots in
a lath-house or under the shade of a deciduous tree, being brought
into the greenhouse only during the season of flowering which is
in late Winter and early Spring. As soon as they finish flowering,
the seed-pods should be picked oflf and the plants returned to the
lath-house so as to make their yoimg growth. As their roots are
very fine, the soil should never be allowed to become dry. The
deciduous species are best grown in the open border partially
shaded by deciduous trees.
AZARA MaCROPHYLLA
A showy evergreen shrub with small box-like foliage and of
graceful habit of growth, bearing fragrant flowers succeeded by
orange-colored berries. Being a native of Chile, it is well adapted
to our climate.
Propagate by cuttings of firm wood of present season's growth,
placed in sand, in cold frame in September or early in October.
Banksia
The Banksia is a very desirable class of small trees or shrubs,
native of Australia. It has handsome serrated leaves (covered
with white down) and briUiant masses of feathery-looking
flowers making a pleasing effect in the garden or shrubbery.
In Australia the Banksia is known as the Scrub Honeysuckle
from the fact that when the cylindrical-shaped flowers are in full
bloom they contain a sweet honey-like liquid.
[73I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
The genus contains many varieties and grows in any soil well
drained even if it be the poorest sand.
Propagate by seeds, which should be sown as soon as received,
in soil composed of half sand and half leaf-mold; cover the seeds
one-quarter of an inch deep and place them in a cold frame.
When the seedlings are one inch high, pot them singly in two-inch
pots.
\
Benthamia
A hardy evergreen small tree or shrub, native of Japan and
South Africa, bearing white comus-like flowers which con-
tinue in bloom for nearly two months. The reddish strawberry-
like fruit hangs on the tree late into the winter, making the plant
a very desirable one for the shrubbery border.
The Benthamia is not particular as to soil and requires very
littie irrigation.
Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring, in the open border
or in a cold frame, in light soil. The seeds should be covered to
the depth of one-quarter of an inch and the young plants should
be transplanted when they are a year old.
Berberis (Barberry)
The Berberis is a genus of shrubs of which many varieties
have handsome shiny compound leaves while the leaves of others
are small, round, oval or holly-like.
Berberis Aquifolium, one of the favorite varieties, is a native
of California and Oregon. It delights in a shady hillside, making
a very good undergrowth.
Berberis Darwinii is a beautiful Winter-blooming plant. It
forms a dense bush, and, when covered with its bright orange-
colored flowers, makes a striking effect.
Berberis nepalensis also has yellow flowers and compound
[74]
TREES AND SHRUBS
leaves with from six to ten pairs of leaflets of a rich holly-green;
it bears large clusters of purple berries during the Winter months.
It should be planted in a shady spot protected from drying winds.
Berberis Japonica is another of the Nepaul type with com-
pwimd leaves and purple fruit. Other desirable kinds are Berberis
stenophylla, Berberis buxifolia and Berberis loxensis.
Propagate by seeds sown about one-eighth of an inch deep as
soon as ripe, or by layers, suckers or cuttings put In sandy soil the
end of September or early in October.
Betula alba (Birch)
The Birch is a highly ornamental deciduous tree of graceful
(sometimes drooping) habit, bearing light-green leaves. All of the
species are hardy and will grow freely in any well-drained soil,
provided they get abundance of water at the roots. A situation
on or about a well-kept lawn suits the Birch admirably if it is
sheltered from harsh winds. Fine effects are produced by com-
bining the Birch with the Bamboo, as, when planted in group
form, their habits of growth blend excellently.
Propagate by seeds which should
be sown, as soon as ripe, in
a shady border in light sandy ■
soil; barely cover the seeds with
the soil. The seedlings should be
transplanted, when a year old,
into nursery rows.
BOUVARDIA
The Bouvardia is a very use-
ful Fall-flowering little shrub
with opposite leaves and tubu-
lar-shaped fragrant flowers, a BouvardU.
native of Mexico and Texas. Bouvardia augustifoUa, Bouvar-
[7Sl
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
dia scabra and Bouvardia jasminiflora are among the best for
outdoor culture.
Propagate by cuttings put in a cold frame early in August,
using half-ripe wood, or in the open ground, in November, in
sandy soil, using firm ripe wood, the cuttings to be about six
inches in length, of the previous season's growth and planted four
inches deep.
Buxus {The Tree Boxwood)
This is an excellent shrub for the coast counties, being e\'er-
green and of a dense habit; it requires no pruning. Slow of
growth and always clear of dust,
it gets along with httle water
and thrives in any garden soil,
while it is also a good box-plant
for verandas, etc.
Some very good varieties
have been introduced from Ja-
pan, several of them with larger
leaves and more vigorous habit
of growth than any of the Euro-
pean species, one of these being
Buxus Japyonica, which grows to
the height of ten feet, while
B«««»- Buxus Japonica variety micro-
phylla has very small leaves, grows rather conical in shape and
forms a dense bush.
Buxus longifolia (a native of Northern India) has narrow
elliptic-shaped leaves. Buxus balearica is the largest of the
genus, has yellowish-green leaves and, in good soil, grows to the
height of thirty feet. Buxus suffruticosa, the dwarf species, is
much used in formal gardening, in making edges to footpath
and flower-beds, and in bordering walks in vegetable gardens.
176)
TREES AND SHRUBS
Propagate by cuttings six inches long, inserted four inches in
sandy soil at any time between September and February.
When the cuttings are of the dwarf variety, for an edging
or border, they sould be planted singly about one inch apart.
Callistemon
A genus of very pretty Summer and Fall-flowering shrubs
with narrow pointed leaves and showy flowers. All are graceful
in habit and grow well in
any fair garden soil where
they require very little at-
tention if the ground is cul-
tivated once a year and
kept loose on the surface
and clear of weeds.
There are several species
all natives of Australia.
Propagate by seeds
sown one-eighth of an inch
deep in April. When the CaUWemon.
seedlings are three inches high, pot them singly in three-inch pots
or plant them in light sandy soil, three inches apart, in boxes;
keep the young plants in pots or boxes until the foUowing Spring
when they will be large enough to be planted in the open ground
in nursery rows or in their permanent quarters.
Calycanthus (Carolina Allspice)
The Calycanthus is a handsome deciduous shrub with sweet-
scented red or yellow-brown flowers, native of this State, the
Southern States and Japan.
It grows in any good soil which is well drained, and prefers
a sheltered situation.
I77I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Propagate by sowing the seeds during Spring in a cold frame,
covering the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch; also by
division of the roots of the older plants in Winter or early Spring.
Camellia
A genus of hardy evergreen trees or shrubs of elegant habit,
bearing gorgeous vari-colored flowers. Some are single, many
are semi-double, and hundreds of
varieties have double flowers in
all shades of red, pink, and
white or beautifully mottled or
striped. With a good well-
selected variety, they may be
had in bloom for four or five
. months beginning in January.
The Camellia loves a par-
tially - shaded situation away
from cold winds, good deep
sandy soil and plenty of water
during the Siunmer months.
Camellia Propagate by cuttings in
September, or by layering in the usual manner in June and July,
or by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep as soon as delivered
or in the early Spring.
Caeagana
Hardy deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs with pinnate
leaves and pea-shaped flowers, mostly natives of Siberia and
Northern China. They grow in any garden soil.
Propagate by cuttings of the roots or by layers between
November and February, or by seeds sown in Spring. Cover the
seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch.
[78]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Carpinus Betulus (Hornbean)
A hardy deciduous tree with simple leaves and flowers in
catkins. It stands exposure well, grows in any soil, and should
make a good street tree where deciduous low-growing trees are
preferred.
It also forms a very good hedge and stands clipping well.
As the leaves remain on the branches throughout the Winter, it
becomes an excellent shelter, standing the winds and storms better
than most deciduous trees.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-quarter of an
inch deep in the open ground; transplant the seedlings to the
nursery row when they are one year old. If they are wanted for
hedge purposes, they should be cut back to six inches when
transplanted so as to make them branch closely to the ground.
Carya
A handsome, slow-growing tree with pinnate, walnut-like,
light-green, deciduous leaves. It is of a spreading habit and
delights in good, rich, bottom soil and a sheltered situation. The
wood is heavy, hard, tough and strong. The nuts of many species
such as the pecan and the shagbark are of good flavor and are
produced in large quantities on the older .ttees. Any one having
a piece of land by the side of a creek, where the soil is deep and
rich and the situation well-sheltered, should plant a few HicljLories.
Carya alba (the shellbark Hickory) makes a grand specimen
from sixty to seventy feet high.
Carya olivaeformis (the Pecan-nut tree) also becomes a
splendid tree. It differs in habit from the Hickory, being more
upright in its form and having from twelve to fifteen leaflets on
each leaf.
Propagate by seeds planted in Fall or Winter one inch deep
where they are intended to remain permanently.
[79I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Cassia
This is one of the most common of our California garden
shrubs, giving a fine show of pea-shaped yellow flowers in Winter.
It has pinnate leaves and grows
from six to twelve feet in height.
It should be pruned back each
Spring so that the plant will keep
in shape and make strong shoots.
It flowers most freely on the
previous year's wood. It thrives
in any garden soil and requires
no artificial irrigation if the
ground is kept cultivated and
clear of weeds.
There are several varieties of
this popular shrub including
'^'»*''- Cassia corymbosa, Cassia mari-
landica, Cassia sophera, etc., all being of easy culture.
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in a cold
frame in early Spring; when the young seedlings are three inches
high, they should be potted or planted either in boxes or in the
open ground.
Castanea {Chestnut)
The sweet or Spanish Chestnut is a large spreading deciduous
tree of good habit and very ornamental. It delights in a shel-
tered situation and should have deep, well-drained, sandy loam.
Never plant it in a cold clay subsoil.
Propagate by seeds sown one inch deep in the open ground,
between November and February. The foUowing Spring trans-
plant the seedlings into nursery rows, one foot apart between the
plants and two feet between the rows.
[So]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Casuarina (She-oak)
The Casuarinas are a genus of jointed leafless trees which
have a very distinct and
peculiar effect in any land-
scape, their long, drooping,
feather-like habit being
quite different from that of
any other tree. They reach
a height of from sixty to
eighty feet, are evergreen,
grow in any soil, stand
exposure well and should be
planted more commonly
than they are. Catuarina.
Propagate by cuttings put into a cold frame in the Fall and
potted off in Spring or as soon as they are well-rooted; also by
seeds sown in Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth
of an inch.
Ceanothus {California Lilac)
This elegant native of our hillsides deserves more attention
from planters than it now receives,
few flowering-shrubs equalling it
for grouping in large grounds or as
single plants in small gardens.
Its graceful habit of growth, its
deep-green leaves, and its showers
of blue or white panicles of sweet-
scented blossoms make it effective
in any garden. Its culture is very
simple as it seems to thrive and
bloom in the poorest soils and in
all aspects.
Propagate by sowing the seeds
Ceanothui. one-sixteenth of an inch deep,
[8,1
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
in the open ground in early Spring, and transplanting, where
required, the following season.
Cedrus
A majestic evergreen coniferous tree with large spreading
branches. It delights in a deep well-drained gravelly loam and a
sheltered situation where it grows
to the height of from eighty to one
hundred feet.
Cedrus Libani (the Cedar of
Lebanon) is of similar habit to our
Monterey Cypress, both as a young
tree (when its habit is pyramidal)
and as a fiill-grown specimen when
it assumes the picturesque spread-
ing form with horizontal branches
and broad flat head of dark mossy-
green foliage which is so greatly
admired.
Cedrut Libani. Young ^>ecimen. Cedrus Atlantica (from Mount
Atlas) is very similar in appear-
ance to Cedrus Libani, being, however, more pyramidal in habit
and having a hghter, more glaucous-colored leaf. Cedrus
Atlantica glauca, a silvery-leafed form of Cedrus Atlantica, is a
most desirable variety on account of its striking, silvery-grey
effect when planted among trees which have dark-green foliage.
Cedrus Deodora (the East Indian Cedar) becomes a much
larger tree than any other of the species, growing, under favor-
able conditions, to the height of two hundred feet and having a
stem over ten feet in diameter. When young it is a gracefully
pyramidal tree, densely set with leaves of a glaucous green.
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep, in Spring
or as soon as ripe.
I821
TREES AND SHRUBS
Cerasus
A genus of hardy deciduous or eve^reen trees or shrubs,
many species of which are highly ornamental, our native ever-
green species being in many re-
spects the most handsome of all.
Its shiny dark-green, holly-like
leaves and bushy habit make it
a general favorite with planters.
It grows freely in any garden
soil which is well-drained, pre-
ferring a loose rocky soil with
an Eastern exposure. The so-
called English Laurel and the
Portugal species are also much
admired, and the Chinese
double-flowering deciduous spe-
cies is one of our gayest Spring- Portugal Laurel,
flowering shrubs.
Our native species Cerasus ilicifoha is propagated by seeds
sown one-half of an inch deep, in early Spring, either where they
are to remain, or singly in pots where they should be kept until
they are from twelve to eighteen inches high.
The English Laurel and the Portugal Laurel may be pro-
pagated by seeds sown, one-quarter of an inch deep, in the
open groirnd in early Spring, or by cuttings planted in October in
sandy soil in the open ground where they should be kept for one
year and then replanted in nursery rows until required.
Cerasus serrulata and other double-flowering varieties are
propagated by budding on the common Cherry about May.
[831
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Cercis {Judas Tree)
An ornamental, hardy, deciduous, low-growing tree with
heart-shaped leaves and pea-shaped
flowers which thickly crowd the
branches, flowering before the leaves
open. When in bloom in early Spring
it gives a very good effect. It grows in
the foothills of the State by the side of a
creek, mixing very prettily with the
alder and the willow, and, when in
flower, may be seen for miles, causing
the traveller to wonder what the strik-
ing object is. It delights in rich, moist,
well-drained soil in a semi-shaded situa-
tion away from the wind. It is prop-
c^^"*- agated by seeds sown, in early Spring,
one-quarter of an inch deep in the open ground.
Cestrum
An evergreen shrub of upright habit and variously-colored
flowers in cymes or fascicles blooming
in Winter or early Spring. It should
have a well-sheltered position and does
best in light sandy soil, not being hardy
where the temperature falls below
twenty-six degrees Fahrenheit. The
best known species are Cestrum elegans
(purplish-red), Cestrum fasciculatum
and Cestrum aurantiacum (yellow), all
natives of Mexico,
Propagate by cuttings placed in cold
frame, in soil compwsed of half sand and
half leaf -mold, in September ; shade
from the sun until rooted. Cesnum.
I84].
TREES AND SHRUBS
Choisya ternata
One of our best Winter-bloom-
ing shrubs, having temate leaves
and white sweet-scented flowers.
It should have a place even in
the smallest collection, being of
dwarf bushy habit and very
free-flowering. It grows in any
good garden soil.
Propagate by cuttings put
into half sand half leaf-soil in a
cold frame in early May or as
soon as the blooming season is
over or in August after the
yoimg wood is half-ripe. Chotoya Umata.
CiSTUS (Rock-Rose)
A genus of elegant free-flowering small shrubs with a large
handsome flower resembling a single rose. This charming genus
has a large niunber of spe-
cies which should be more
commonly seen in our gar-
dens as they are of easy
culture and require little
water for their develop-
ment. Being natives of the
coast of the Mediterranean,
they are peculiarly adapted
to introduction into Cali-
fornia.
CWu*. They are propagated by
seeds sown under glass in Spring {the seeds being barely
covered by finely-sifted, sandy soil), or by cuttings of young
[85]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
wood, three or four inches long, placed in soil composed of one-
half sand, one-half leaf-mold, in a cold frame, either in Spring or
Fall; as soon as they are rooted, pot them into three-inch pots
in soil composed of two-thirds leaf-soil and one-third sand with
the addition of a little loam.
Citrus Aurantium (Orange)
The Orange as a diecorative garden tree is not so well known
as the Orange grown as a fruit tree. It forms, however, most
charming effects in the landscape when planted either in group
form or as single specimens on the lawn, especially if grown in
tree form with a stem of from six to eight feet and a spread of
branch, fifteen or more feet across, covered densely with its great
masses of bright evergreen foliage and its beautiful, fragrant,
white flowers which are nearly always in bloom. It also is un-
excelled as a winter garden ornament when laden with its golden
fruit. There are many highly ornamental species, including
Citrus Aurantium (the Sweet Orange) a native of Asia, Citrus
Decumana (the Shaddock) with fruit from six to eight inches in
diameter, Citrus Japonica which makes a very pretty bush,
Citrus Limetta (the Lime), Citrus Limonum (Lemon), Citrus
nobilis (Mandarin), Citrus trifoliata (with its prickly stems and
small ornamental fruit) which makes a handsome bush and is also
a good hedge plant, and Citrus vulgaris (Bitter Orange) which
grows to the height of forty feet and is a handsome tree.
Propagate by seeds, sown one-quarter of an inch deep under
glass. Transplant the seedUngs, when three inches high, into
nursery rows; keep them in the nursery until they are from four
to six feet high and then plant them in their permanent quarters.
The finer varieties may be increased by budding on the common
stock.
[86]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Clethra
Evergreen and deciduous small trees or shrubs, valuable on
account of their showy spUtes of fragrant white flowers which
appear late in summer. The evergreen species (such as Clethra
arborea) are noted for the laurel effect which their large, glossy
leaves give. They thrive under our California conditions.
Clethra arborea (a native of Madeira) is perhaps the finest of
the species. Clethra quercifo) a does exceedingly well in the
warmer sections of the state.
Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring in a cool green-
house temperature (covering the seeds to the depth of an eighth
of an inch), or by cuttings in sandy leaf-mold placed in a cold
frame during September.
The Clethra flourishes in any fair garden soil.
Clianthus
A genus of about three species of hardy evergreen shrubs,
natives of New Zealand and
Australia. They have com-
pound leaves and bear great
masses of brilliant scarlet pea-
shaped blossoms, continuing in
bloom for several months. Cli-
anthus puniceus is the hardiest
of the genus and is of the most
easy culture, growing freely in
any soil of a sandy nature either
in the open or in partial shade.
Propagate by cuttings of half-
ripe wood inserted in a cold
frame in March and shaded from cuantho* punlc«us.
hot sunshine until rooted when they should be potted singly in
three-inch pots and grown on until required,
IS?)
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CoPROSMA {New Zealand Holly)
A genus of handsomely-leaved evergreen shrubs which should
be m every collection. They grow freely in any situation (even in
the smoky city garden), their glossy hoUy-green leaves refusing to
carry any dust. They contrast well with our rough-leaved shrubs.
The genus comprises over thirty species, mostly natives of
New Zealand and other Pacific Islands. Coprosma Baueriana and
its varieties are the best for cultivation on the Pacific Coast.
Coprosma picturata and Coprosma variegata, being variegated
forms of Coprosma Baueriana, are very attractive.
This shrub is not so easily propagated as most of our other
free-flowering shrubs, and should be given extra care in being
shaded from hot sxm. In making the cuttings, slit the lower end
to the depth of three-quarters of an inch; insert them in soil
composed of two-thirds clear sand and one-third'well-decomposed
leaf-mold in a cold frame in September. Do not overwater them.
As soon as rooted, they should be potted off in thvmib pots, put
back into the cutting frame and kept close and shaded until they
take fresh roots. Propagation may also be effected by seeds sown
one-eighth of an inch deep in light sandy soil in Spring.
CoRNUS (Dogwood)
The Dogwood is one of the most attractive of our ornamental
deciduous shrubs, delighting in semi-shaded moist places pro-
tected from winds, and thriving best in light rich soil. One of
our native species, Comus Nuttallii, is the finest of the genus,
growing in favorable situations to a height of from sixty to eighty
feet, pyramidal in habit, and, in early May when entirely covered
with its great white bracts, is the most conspicuous and attractive
object in the mountains and foothills. In the Fall, when laden
with its orange-colored fruit, it gives good effects in the shrub-
[88]
TREES AND SHRUBS
bery. All of the species are very desirable, especially Comus
sanguinea and Comus florida, these making good undergrowth
even in the darkest shade.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy soil in a shaded pro-
tected border out of doors after the leaves fall in Autumn. They
may also be increased by division of the roots in Winter or early
Spring, by seeds sown in Spring and by layering in Jime. Cover
the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch.
CORONILLA
Very pretty small-growing ornamental shrubs and perennial
herbs of easy cultiure and graceful habit, having glaucous and
variegated leaves. They are well adapted to planting on the
margin of shrubbery groups.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sand in a cold frame early in
September; leave them in the frame all Winter and pot them
ofE in Spring in pots of light rich soil; grow them in pots for a
year and then plant them in their permanent situations.
CORYNECARPUS
Handsome evergreen trees, native of New Zealand, with
laurel-like leaves and pyramidal habit, bearing white flowers and
pliun-like fruit. No evergreen tree or shrub gives a better effect
in large shrubberies than the Corynecarpus and it should be
foimd in even the most choice collection.
Propagate, at any time from June to September, by cuttings
taken from half-ripe wood; place them in a cold frame shaded
from sun, and, when rooted, pot them in three-inch pots; plant
them in the open ground the following Spring.
[89]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
COTONEASTER
A genus of hardy evergreen shrubs with small boxwood-like
leaves and small white flowers,
bearing abundant crops of bright-
red berries which remain conspicu-
ous for months. It begins to ripen
in California in July, carrying its
fruit until the following Spring.
Propagate by seeds, cuttings or
layers in the open ground; sow the
seeds one-eighth of an inch deep
in March; put in the cuttings or
layers any time dunng the Fall. It
is of easy culture, requiring very
little attention beyond being given
cobmatter. ^ Utjle water during the Summer
months.
Crataegus {Hawthorn)
A genus of hardy shrubs and small trees with single leaves
and great sprays of sweet-scented pretty flowers. No hardy
flowering tree gives finer color effects in the landscape than the
Hawthorn, whether planted in groups or grown as single speci-
mens. The Hawthorn prefers a good stiff loam or clayey soil,
and, if the soil is kept well cultivated, no artificial irrigation
will be required after the first year.
Propagate by seeds sown in the Fall, or as soon as the pulpy
matter can be rotted from the seed; cover to the depth of half an
inch and transplant the following Winter into nursery rows.
The red-flowering and double white varieties are propagated by
budding in May or by grafting in Winter on the conmion species
in the usual manner. It should be noted that while some seeds
germinate the first season, others may not germinate until the
second year.
190)
CupreSMi* Nutkaensls, the Alaskan Sp«ciei.
TREES AND SHRUBS
Cryptomeria
A genus comprising only two species, both indigenous to
Japan. They prefer a rich, moist, well-sheltered sitxiation and
abundance of water during the Summer months, when they form
elegant specimens of pyramidal habit.
Propagate by, seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in a
cold frame in Spring. When they are four inches high, plant
them in nursery rows (giving room as required) where they may
remain until wanted.
CuPRESSUS {Cypress)
The Monterey Cypress is a universal favorite, nearly every
garden having a r^resentative of this species. It makes an
excellent wind-break and stands ex-
posure as well as, if not better than,
any tree we have experimented with
whether indigenous or exotic. It is
of vigorous habit and assumes stately
proportions. When full grown and
when its massive flat crown is well-
formed, no tree has more character or
more striking individuality. It grows
well in any soil but prefers rich well-
drained loam.
Cupressus Lawsoniana is of more
elegant form than the preceding, being
of pyramidal habit and graceful out- Cuprewui UwMmUna.
line. Cupressus sempervirens (the Italian Cypress) is of a tall
tapering habit and formal appearance.
The Cypress makes an excellent hedge.
All of the species are easily propagated by seeds sown, in the
early Spring, one-quarter of an inch deep, in boxes, and placed
in a cold frame. When they are three inches high transplant
[931
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
them into boxes (placing them three inches apart) and after-
wards plant them out in nursery rows about one foot apart.
Cydonia Japonica {Japan Quince)
A genus of dwarf deciduous flowering shrubs, opening their
flowers as early as the middle of January. There are several
species all of which are very desirable, some having scarlet
flowers, others bright pink, and one species {Cydonia Japonica
alba) bearing flowers of the purest white. They are all an easily
grown, free- flowering class of plants which should be seen in every
collection, as they thrive in any soil and require httle attention.
They are propagated by layers in July, or by cuttings put in
the open ground in October.
CvTisus {Broom)
A genus of about forty species of shrubs bearing pea-shaped
^^^^^^^^^^ ^^ flowers in great abundance. They
^^^^B^^^H ^H are very easy culture, and, without
^^^^^^^^^^B ^^1 irrigation, grow freely in any soil, even
^^^^^ ^^^^^^1 the poorest.
^^■^^^^^^^H Propagate by seeds sown one-
^^^^^^J^^^^ quarter of an inch deep in the open
^K^^H^ ground or in a cold frame in early
^^^^^^^k ^_ Spring. When the seedluigs are four
^^^B ^H ^1 inches high, transplant them into
^^^H ^^B^ nursery rows and grow them on until
^^^H ^^P^^^ required. Cytisus racemosus and
^^^^■^f^ ^^^B others of the class may also be in-
^^^^^^^K ^^^^ creased by cuttings, placed in a cold
^™'™- frame in October, and shaded from
sunshine until rooted, when they should be potted singly in small
pots.
l94l
TREES AND SHRUBS
Daphne
A genus of very ornamental evergreen or deciduous shrubs,
their sweet-scented flowers and comjiact habit of growth makmg
them desirable for planting in our shrubberies.
They prefer a warm, sheltered situation, away from harsh
winds and hot sunshine, and a soft brown soil with perfect
drainage.
Propagate by cuttings placed, in September, in a cool frame
and left there until calloused. They should then be placed in
a gentle bottom heat when they will soon make root and be
ready for potting in three-inch pots; give them root-room as
required.
Datura (Cornucopia Flower)
Herbs, shrubs or trees with large entire tongue-shaped leaves,
bearing trumpet-shaped flowers
sometimes over a foot long.
The flowers are of various colors,
including white, orange and red.
Some varieties are very fragrant,
especially at night. They grow
well in any good garden soil
with ordinary care.
The best kinds are Datura
sanguinea, Datura arborea. Da-
tura suaveolens and Datura
comigera.
Propagate by cuttings of
half-ripe wood placed in sandy Datura (uaveoiew.
soU in a cold frame in October; as soon as they are rooted, plant
them in pots, and, in early Spring, plant them in the open ground.
l9Sl
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Deutzia
A genus of hardy, deciduous, strong-growing shrubs of easy
culture, which, on account of their free-flowering qualities should
have a place in every garden however small. They thrive in
ahnost any soil, and well repay the trouble incurred in their
cultivation.
Deutzia crenata grows to a height of about ten feet; Deutzia
gracilis has a dwarf compact habit and should be planted on the
margin of a group of taller shrubs, where it will give a fine finish
to the group.
Propagate by cuttings of the ripe wood placed in the open
ground in November; when they are rooted run them into nur-
sery rows; give them room as required.
DlERVILLA OR WeIGELA
A genus of hardy ornamental low-growing deciduous shrubs,
mostly natives of China and Japan. No shrubbery is complete
without a collection of these elegant free- flowering shrubs. They
grow well in any garden soil and repay the attention bestowed on
them. They bloom in early Spring and continue in bloom for
a good length of time. As soon as the plants are finished bloom-
ing, prune the previous year's growth back to within six inches
of its growth, so as to encourage the plants to throw out strong
shoots, the best flowers always being foimd on the growth of the
previous year.
Propagate by . cuttings (made of the previous Summer's
growth) about six inches long placed in sandy soil in the open
groimd in November or as soon as the leaves are all off. In the
Spring, as soon as the cuttings are well rooted, plant them in
nursery rows for a year when they may be transplanted into
their place in the shrubbery.
[96]
TREES AND SHRUBS
DiosMA (Breath of Heaven)
A genus of heath-Uke graceful shrubs with grass-Uke leaves
and crowds of delicate white flowers. On account of its exquisite
fragrance and delicate foliage this plant is much used in decorat-
ing and filling vases. It delights in a light, sandy soil and plenty
of water. As it is rather a dwarf grower, it should be planted
near the walks or on the edges of shrub-groups, for if planted
among strong-growing shrubs it is apt to get lost or grown over.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a propagating house in gentle
heat at any time between April and September; after they are
rooted, pot them singly in thumb pots, giving them larger pots
as required and using leafy sandy soil.
DURANTA PlX^IEBI
A South American shrub with blue or white flowers in temate
racemes. If given a warm sheltered situation in the full sun it
does well and is very attractive.
Propagate by cuttings in Fall or Spring.
EcHUJM {Viper's hugloss)
A group of shrubby or herbaceous
plants with large tongue-shaped leaves
of a glaucous color thickly covered with
fine hairs. They bear immense spikes
of blue, pink or white flowers, form-
ing very striking objects in the shrub-
bery, their large gray leaves effectively
contrasting with their bright-blue flow-
ers. They grow well in any good
garden soil.
Propagate by seeds sown one-six-
teenth of an inch deep in the early
Spring, or by cuttings placed in sand in ''™'
[971
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
a cold frame in October or November; grow them in pots for
one year and plant them in the shrubbery the following Spring.
El.«agnus {Wild Olive)
A small genus of evergreen or deciduous shrubs of easy
growth and attractive appearance, their glaucous downy leaves
giving a soft effect when well placed in the landscape. The
flowers are inconspicuous, their chief attraction being their leaves
and fruit and also their graceful habit of growth. They do best
in light sandy soil.
Propagate by seeds or cuttings placed, in October, in the
open ground in sandy soil. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-
eighth of an inch.
Erica {Healk Family)
A most extensive genus comprising over four hundred species,
all hardy in California, most of them being natives of the Cape
of Good Hope and the Australian -group.
They ought to be seen in gardens more
commonly than they are, as many of them
are very easily grown and blossom in Win-
ter and early Spring when flowers are
scarce. They are among the most attrac-
tive of our flowering shrubs, and, as they
are generally slow-growing and of neat
habit, are well adapted for small gardens.
All the care necessary is to give them a
sandy soil, plenty of water, and a prune
back immediately after flowering so as to
encourage the forming of young growth
Erica peraoluta alba. on which they will flower the following
season.
In Europe and the East great care and considerable skill are
thought necessary to grow these plants successfully. There they
198I
•••••••• ••,
•••,•••• ••••
•• • • • • • •,• ,
• ••
• • •
TREES AND •..&-.!£ J -R:.:!^.:-^:/^
must be grown in pots, in specially prepared soil, in greenhouses
and watered carefully. Even with the best of care however
they often there die off suddenly or are attacked by mildew, etc.,
and thrown into poor health, whereas here they seem to grow
without any special care, giving grand results.
The best for every-day culture are Erica persoluta, Erica
gracilis, Erica hyemalis, Erica melanthera, Erica Willmorei,
Erica arborea, Erica ventricosa. Erica capitata, Erica hybrida,
Erica Mediterranea and their varieties.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a cool frame late in the Fall,
October or early in November being. the best season; shade them
from bright sunshine; pot them off as soon as rooted, in thumb
pots, in sandy, leafy soil.
Erythrina (Coral-Tree)
A genus of plants with trifoliate leaves and pea-shaped flowers
mostly dark-red in color (the individual flowers being of large
size and generaUy in large clusters) forming very striking objects
in the garden or pleasure-ground. They delight in good heavy
loam and plenty of water during the Summer months, and revel
in our hottest sun. They do well nearly all over the State except-
ing close to the coast where the cool fogs of Summer are not
agreeable to their sun-loving nature.
The tree species, Erythrina Humei, grows to the height of
from forty to sixty feet. It is a native of South Africa.
Erythrina Indica is another of the family which ought to do
better in California than experiments so far have shown. It
grows to the height of about thirty feet and is a free bloomer,
having great masses of pea-shaped, brilliant scarlet flowers.
These have several varieties which should be placed in warm,
sheltered spots in our gardens.
Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring one-eighth of an
inch deep in hot-bed; plant in permanent quarters the following
May or early June.
[99]
0i.S.'PJ'P.SiN.i'N-G IN CALIFORNIA
ESCALLONIA
The Escallonias may be classed among our most useful shrubs,
doing well however situated either as regards soil or expK>sure.
They are natives of the
! cooler coxmtries of South
j America, principally Chile
and Patagonia. They all
are evergreen and free-
growing, so make excellent
hedges, besides being very
good plants for heavy
I grouping. Another, good
I quaUty is their habit of
' blooming late in the Fall
Escallonia roMa. and early Winter, when
color is scarce, the Escallonia Montevidensis with its great bundles
of terminal white blossoms having a very striking effect in Novem-
ber and December. The red- flowering Escallonia rubra and pink-
flowering Escallonia rosea, the flowers of which contrast finely
with the glossy green of the leaves, are much admired by lovers
of fine shrubs.
There are about thirty-five species of this interesting family,
all of them hardy, standing well the strongest winds and thriv-
ing even close to the ocean if not too near the salt spray. They
make splendid pillar plants for the terrace or formal garden.
They stand pruning and are easily transplanted at almost
any season. All the preparation necessary is to cut the plant
well back, pruning off the small limbs and leaves so that only
the larger branches remain. The roots should be dug up without
any soil attached and, after being planted, the plant should be
given a good watering. In a few weeks it will show new growth.
Propagate by cuttings put in sandy leaf-mold in a cold frame
in October; the following Spring plant them out in nursery
rows until large enough to be planted in their permanent quarters,
[lool
Eucalyptus lictColia.
• • •
• •
• ••
• •
• •
• •
I • •
TREES AND SHRUBS
Eucalyptus (Australian Gum)
This genus is one of the most useful of our introduced exotics.
True, it is sometimes found to be a nuisance, especially when the
common Blue Gum has been planted in good soil along narrow
streets and its roots have been within reach of a poorly laid sewer,
for it will find out poor work more quickly •than most sewer
inspectors, the tiniest crack or the smallest pinhole being surely
discovered by the roots of this rampant gross feeder. Should a
pin-hole be left in the sewer pipe, the Eucalyptus quickly enters
and in a very short time fills the pipe so full of roots, that it stops
up the entire pipe, sometimes for the distance of a hundred feet.
This is not the situation for a Eucalyptus of the globulus variety,
but the tree merits a place in the landscape and that place should
be a prominent one. In an out of the way corner which cannot
be used for any other crop, or, on some high knoll where shelteV
is needed and little else will grow. Eucalyptus globulus (Blue
Gum) can be planted to advantage, but there are many other
species which may be introduced and which give fine effects even
in the most choice collections.
For instance take Eucalyptus piperita : when grown in a suit-
able place it is as graceful as the Birch ; and no Willow has a finer
drooping effect than Eucal5^tus saligna with its willow-shaped
leaves; or again, the red-flowering variety (Eucalyptus leucoxyla,
var. macrocarpa), when laden with its bright-pink, myrtle-like
blossoms has a most striking effect in the landscape, while the
scarlet-blooming Eucalyptus ficifolia is very effective even in
small gardens as are also Eucalyptus comuta (yellow flowered),
Eucalyptus tetragonus (crimson-flowered and a dwarf grower),
and Eucalyptus Landsdowniana (also a dwarf grower with small
red flowers and rather broad dark-green leaves). Still another
dwarf grower of bushy habit is the Eucalyptus pyriformis so
named on account of the pea shape of the calyx ; this species has
pink flowers and is said to grow in the poorest lands' such as in
[ 103 ]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
the dryest regions of South Australia. Eucalyptus corymbosa
and its varieties give graceful foliage eflFects where room can be
spared for them. Eucalyptus viminalis is a species which is
almost indispensable where trees of a graceful or semi-drooping
habit of growth are desired. Where the rainfall is light and a
symmetrical well-balanced top is desired, the Eucalyptus corj'^-
nocalyx can be safely recommended as it has been proven beyond
a doubt to survive our dryest seasons, even when most of the
strong vigorous growers, like Eucalyptus globulus and Eucal>T)tus
amygdalina, have died off for lack of sufficient moisture. Euca-
l5^tus amygdalina is said to be the tallest-growing tree in the
world, attaining, in the valleys of its native country, to the
height of between five hundred and six hundred feet; it has rather
dense foUage and a bright-green leaf. Eucal5^tus sideroxylon
(the iron bark) is one of the most desirable for planting in our
interior valleys as it stands drought well; it is best known by its
dark-brown iron-like persistent bark, red flowers and light-gray
foliage; planted in group-form it gives a most striking effect in
the landscape.
There is a great variety of this family of Australian trees,
and, where space can be secured or spared, that space can be
profitably used for planting the different species of this very
ornamental and useful genus.
Propagation is by seeds. Sow the seeds in boxes or pots filled
with light sandy soil, in March or early in April; cover the seeds
lightly with sandy leaf -mold, and water thoroughly. Place in
a cold frame and shade lightly during hot sunshine imtil the
seeds have germinated ; as soon as they have made four leaflet,s
remove the sash from the frame and replace it with a lathed
cover to protect the seedlings from strong simshine and also
from the ravages of birds. When the plants are two inches high,
transplant them into boxes about four and one-half inches deep
filled with good strong loam, planting them about three inches
apart. Return them to a situation similar to the one from which
[104]
TREES
AND
SHRUBS
they were taken; give them a good watering and keep them
shaded during strong simshine for a few days, afterwards gradu-
ally exposing them to the open air. Plant them, in March or
April, where they are to remain.
Eugenia
The Eugenias belong to the Myrtle family and are very desir-
able shrubs or small trees, grow-
ing to the height of from twenty-
five to thirty feet. They have a
handsome pyramidal habit of
growth, their myrtle-like leaves
being tinted with pink in their
growing state. They give a very
good efiFect in the shrubbery,
and, when covered with their
white myrtle-like flowers, or
later with their reddish globular-
shaped fruit, make handsome
ornaments in our grounds. Eu-
genia myrt folia and Eugenia Eugenia latifoiia.
Smithiana (or Eugenia latifolia as it is sometimes named) are the
best varieties for this coast.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy soil in a cold frame,
in October, or by seeds sown in early Spring, also in a cold frame.
Cover the seeds to the depth of one-sixteenth of an inch.
EuGNYMUS {Spindle-Tree)
A genus of evergreen or deciduous trees and shrubs, natives
of Europe, Asia, Japan and the United States, with opposite
leaves and small inconspicuous flowers. All are hardy in Cali-
fornia and of easy growth, standing the harsh winds of the coast
[1051
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
counties very well and enduring rough treatment of every kind
better than most of our common shrubs do. Some of the varie-
gated kinds are considered to be among our most ornamental
shrubs.
Euon>Tnus grandiflorus grows to the height of twenty feet.
Euonymus Japonica is the most attractive of the species,
being smooth-leaved, of good habit and carrying no dust, with
small white flowers, and is also very handsome in the Fall and
Winter when covered with its bright-red berries. It is exceed-
ingly effective when grouped about the margins of the lawn or
as a background for more delicate shrubs, also when massed with
Laurel, Pittosporum, Veronica and others. There are many
varieties of this useful and ornamental shrub. Euonymus
Japonica aurea, Euonymus Japonica argentea and Euonymus
Japonica Due de Anjou are all very desirable.
Euonymus latifolia, the broad-leaved Euonymus, is another
of the type which should be in every collection as should also
be its varieties with their gold or silver variegated leaves.
Propagate by cuttings of the last season's growth inserted,
in October, in sandy soil, or by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch
deep in early Spring; in either case place in a cold frame.
EXOCHORDA
This shrub is a native of North China, belonging to the
Spiraeas, and is sometimes named Spiraea grandiflora. Its habit
of growth resembles the Philadelphus and it should group well
with the members of that family. It opens its handsome white
clusters early in June, remaining in flower about one month.
Propagate by cuttings of the ripe wood placed in sandy soil
in the open border in November, or by suckers formed at the base
of the plants in Winter, or by layers in the Fall, or by seeds sown
one-eighth of an inch deep in the open ground as soon as ripe in
the Fall.
[io6]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Fabiana
An evergreen heath-like shrub
of a stiff, erect habit of growth
and bearing a profusion of small fun-
nel-shaped flowers. It should be
pruned back within a few inches of
the previous year's growth as soon as
the flowering season is over, this treat-
ment insuring for the plant a much
better shape than if it were allowed
to take its natural habit of growth.
Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe
wood placed in a cold frame in Sep-
tember or early in October or in early
Spring before growth commences. Fabiana.
Fagus sylvatica (Beech)
The Beech in the Eastern States and in Europe is a noble
symmetrical tree requiring very little attention and growing in
almost any soil which is well drained. Here in California it re-
quires good shelter and a fairly good soil, well drained. It must
have abundant moisture, doing well on the border of the lawn
or close to a pond or water course.
There are several varieties, the purple-leaved variety appear-
mg to be the best adapted to this climate. It is not advisable to
attempt propagation in this State.
Fatsia
A genus of handsomely leaved plants belon^ng to the Aralia
family, a name by which this genus is often known. They like
a well-sheltered situation protected from strong winds, where,
if given good soil and plenty of moisture, they form handsome
[■°7l
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
objects, their large palmated shining green leaves creating a fine
tropical efiFect. Fatsia papyrifera produces the rice paper used
in oriental countries for making artificial flowers.
Fatsia Japonica and its variegated varieties are also ver\'
useful in tropical gardening, but as they are of slower growth and
of dwarf habit should be planted near the margins of groups.
Another variety, Fatsia horrida, a native of the State of
Washington, is of more spreading habit and has large palmated
leaves three or more feet in width. Its stem is often too weak to
sustain its large, heavy leaves and should be supported by a
strong stake until its fourth or fifth year. This variety is thickly
covered with stout sharp spines.
Propagate by cuttings of the root, an inch or more in length,
placed in heat in early Spring, or by suckers growing from the
base of the crown in Winter or early Spring.
Ficus {Rubber Tree)
The fig family contains many highly ornamental evergreen
and deciduous trees. Ficus elastica is a fine tree for the open
ground and as a pot plant for the decoration of the pallor or
sitting room, while, as a veranda plant, few are more hardy or
give better satisfaction, its long leather>'^ smooth shiny green
leaves and upright stately habit making it a generally favorite
plant for garden and indoor decoration. It grows well in any
good garden soil provided it is given a sheltered spot and plenty
of water.
Some fine specimens of Ficus are to be seen in Southern
California and also in San Francisco, Oakland, San Rafael and
San Mateo, a number of these being over forty feet high and
generally enjoying vigorous health.
Propagate, in the early Spring, by cuttings taken from plants
grown under glass; insert them in sandy soil in strong moist
heat. If the cuttings are taken from the open ground, place them
in a cold frame until they callous ; they should then be taken from
[ io8 ]
Ficus elutica.
TREES AND SHRUBS
the cold frame and put in a house with a temperature of sixty
degrees Fahrenheit where they will soon root.
Fraxinus (Ash)
The Ash is one of our favorite ornamental trees. It has long
compound leaves and inconspicuous flowers; it loves good deep
moist soil and a sheltered situation, the bank of a creek being its
favorite haunt. The weeping varieties of Fraxinus excelsior
make very handsome specimens for the lawn.
In the Fall, propagate by seeds sown as soon as ripe one-
quarter of an inch deep in a sandy soil. When the young plants,
in the early Spring, are from six to twelve inches high, plant
them in nurserj" rows about six inches apart in the rows and with
two feet between the rows. Replant them in their permanent
quarters when they are from four to six feet in height.
Fraxinus excelsior.
Iiii]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
The weeping varieties are propagated by grafting on the
common Ash in early Spring. To get good specimens they should
be grafted on strong young saplings at a height of from twelve
to twenty feet, thus having plenty of height so that the pendulous
limbs may easily be spread out the required arbor width.
Gardenia
The Gardenia is a genus comprising many species, most of
which are natives of Asia. All are evergreen small shrubs with
sweet-scented white or yellow
flowers, the single varieties hav-
ing funnel-shaped flowers. The
double-flowering varieties are,
however, the most desirable,
some of them being as double
as a Camellia and bearing flowers
which are four inches in
diameter.
The Gardenias should be
planted in every garden, how-
ever small, as they form compact
little bushes while their beautiful
GaTdenia. fragrant white flowers make a
handsome decoration. The climate of Oakland and of the
South as far as San Diego suits them admirably. They delight
in a warm sheltered situation and plenty of water at the roots
during Summer. Gardenia Fortuni and Gardenia radicans
major are the varieties best suited to the conditions of California.
Any good light loam, if well drained, will suffice them for soil
purposes.
Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe wood placed in a cold
frame, in August, in soil composed of half well-decomposed leaf-
mold and half silver-sand. After putting in the cuttings, the
frame should, for two weeks, be shaded during sunshine.
TREES AND SHRUBS
Genista
A large genus of free-flowering shrubs of compact, bushy
habit, having flowers pea-shaped and mostly yellow in color,
growing freely in any garden soil (preferably light and sandy)
and requiring no artificial irrigation after the first year.
Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one-quarter of an inch
deep in the open ground, or in boxes in cold frame; when the
seedlings are from four to six inches high, prick them out in
boxes or in the open groimd. Plant them in permanent quarters
when they are from twelve to eighteen inches high; water them
during the first year after planting. All are worthy a place in
the pleasure-ground.
Ginkgo {Maidenhair-Tree)
The Maidenhair-tree is a native of North China and is named
Maidenhair-tree from the form of its leaflets, these being shaped
like the leaflets of the Adiantum fern. It has an upright open
habit and has a distinctly handsome appearance in any landscape
while it also makes a good street tree.
There are several handsome varieties including the deeply-
cut leaved Ginkgo biloba laciniata and a weeping form. Ginkgo
biloba pendula.
Propagate by seeds sown, as soon as ripe, one-quarter of an
inch deep in the open ground. Plant them in permanent site,
when they are from six to ten feet high, in good deep well-drained
soil.
Gleditschia {Honey Locust)
A handsome spreading tree with pinnate and tripinnate
leaves on the same plant, deciduous, light-green in color and of
graceful habit, the branches being crowded (especially on the
lower limbs) with strong sharp spines. Its seeds are in long
fleshy pods about two inches in width by fifteen inches in length,
[113]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
each pod containing a dozen seeds. The pulpy portion of the
pod is sweet when fresh, hence the name "Honey Locust." It
is a very desirable tree, growing in any ordinary good soil, and
should make a good street tree, as, on account of its spine-covered
branches, boys would fight shy of climbing its trunk.
There are several species of the genus all worthy of a place
in the pleasure-ground. The Japanese and its varieties purpurea
and coccinea, the Chinese, the water locust (Gleditschia aquatica)
and several other kinds are all very desirable.
Propagate, by seeds, in January; as the shells of the seeds
are exceedingly hard, soak them in hot water for a few hours
before sowing. Plant the seeds about an inch deep in the open
ground ; leave them in the seed-bed for one year when they should
be planted in nursery rows. Plant them in permanent quarters
when they are from six to fifteen feet high.
Grevillea
A genus of elegant trees and shrubs mostly natives of the
Australian group, many of the species having leaves as beauti-
fully cut as a fern. According to Eastern and European authori-
ties they grow only five or six feet high, whereas here in Cali-
fornia they reach a height of from forty to fifty feet with a
diameter of stem of over a foot. Grevillea robusta, the most
commonly grown species, is very ornamental, and when in bloom
is a striking object in the landscape with its great trusses of
orange-red flowers set among its fern-like foliage. It grows freely
in any ordinary good soil and requires very little water. Grevillea
fasciculata, Grevillea juniperina, Grevillea Thelemanniana,
Grevillea saligna, the scarlet-blooming Grevillea punicea, and
the purple-flowering Grevillea vestita should be seen in our gar-
dens more frequently than they are and well repay any care and
attention bestowed upon them.
Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one-quarter of an inch
[114]
TREES AND SHRUBS
deep in sandy soil in a warm greenhouse, or by cuttings planted,
in September, in a cool frame shaded from strong sunshine ; grow
them in pots until they are required for planting in the open
ground.
Gymnocladus {Kentucky Co fee-Tree)
A lofty tree, native of the Eastern States from Kentucky to
Canada, receiving its name from the seeds being used by early
settlers as a substitute for coflFee.
This tree is a favorite shade tree both in the East and in
Europe and should thrive better here than it seems to have done
in many places. It requires a shady sheltered situation and a
soft moist soil.
Propagate by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep in the
open ground as soon as ripe in the Fall.
Hakea
A large Australian genus comprising many species with
needle-like foliage and bottle-brush flowers. A few assume tree
form but most of them are low-growing shrubs. All are attractive
when in bloom, but, on account of their hard, needle-like leaves
and persistent seed vessels, are not very desirable except in large
collections.
Propagate by seeds .own one-sixteenth of an inch deep, in
heat, in early Spring, or by cuttings of the ripe wood placed in a
cold frame in September and potted as growth requires; keep
them in pots until required for planting in permanent situations.
Halesia
A genus of pretty shrubs containing half a dozen species,
natives of the Eastern States and Japan and one from China.
The Japanese Halesia hispida does especially well, growing
freely and blooming abundantly, its clusters of pure white
[115]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
snowdrop-like flowers together with its semi-pendulous habit of
growth making it a good addition to the shrubbery. The Hale-
sias deUght in a light rich sandy soil and a sheltered situation.
Propagate by layers in the open ground, and also by cuttings
of the roots placed in a cold frame in September.
Hydrangea
Highly decorative, evergreen and deciduous shrubs. Hydran-
gea hortensis, the most easily grown of any of the species, is a
universal favorite, flowering, as it often does, ten months of the
year, its handsome foUage and great trusses of pink, white or
purple sterile flowers giving a fine effect. It does best in a semi-
shaded situation in light sandy moist soil. If extra large panicles
of flowers are desired, cut the shoots back to within a foot of the
groimd and thin the remainder of the flower stems to not over
six, manure them heavily and water them freely; the result will
be enormously large heads requiring stout stakes to support them.
It also makes an excellent vase plant for the porch or veranda,
the shade and shelter of the veranda being a very suitable light
for its development.
Hydrangea paniculata is a valuable shrubby species for the
decorating of the shrubbery, having smaller leaves than the pre-
ceding and panicles also smaller and of a more pointed shape.
It requires a sunny warm situation and all the light possible.
There are many varieties of the Hortensia, notably Dr. Hogg
with pure white flowfers, and Hortensia Japonica with blue
flowers. Some have variegated foliage.
All are easily propagated by ordinary cuttings placed in sandy
soil in a cool frame in October.
Hymenosporum flavum
This handsome evergreen tree is a native of Australia, has
smooth glossy bright, light-green leaves and bears masses of
TREES AND SHRUBS
tubular-shaped yellow flowers which have a strong sweet odor
scenting the atmosphere for an area of a hundred yards. It grows
freely in any good garden soil and should be used extensively in
planting large grounds.
Propagation is by cuttings placed in a cold frame, during
October, in light sandy leaf-mold. It may also be propagated
by seeds sown in Spring in a frame, the seeds to be covered to
the depth of a quarter of an inch.
Hypericum
A genus of hardy, low-growing shrubs generally with yellow
flowers, mostly natives of
Southern Europe and the
United States. All are of
easy culture, growing freely
in any good garden soil.
Hypericum delights in a
shady nook under the shel-
ter of tall shrubs for which
it makes an excellent under-
growth or carpet, thickly
covering the surface of the
ground with its foliage and Hypericum,
bright-yellow flowers. There are many fine species, such as H.
Moserianum, H. Androsaemum, H. patulum, etc., well deserving
a place in the shrubbery.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in Autumn;
shade them for the first few days, and, when they are rooted,
plant them in nursery rows until wanted.
Ilex {Holly)
A genus of one hundred and fifty species, evergreen and de-
ciduous. It is highly ornamental, its stately habit of growth
[»7l
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
and its bright glossy green, undulate, prickly leaves making it
one of the most popular of shrubs. When covered with a heavy
crop of its bright crimson berries, it is exceedingly eflFective in
the garden from November to early Spring.
There are many varieties of the different species which are
highly ornamental ; some of them, with variegated leaves, should
be in every collection however small. The Holly stands pruning
into almost any shape and makes an excellent hedge though of
slow growth, it taking seven or eight years to grow a holly hedge
five feet in height, but from its first appearance above ground it
is pleasing and should be more frequently used for this purpose.
The Holly delights in a semi-shaded spot in a sheltered place,
away from harsh winds and strong sunshine, and loves moisture
at the root during the growing season.
Ilex opaca, the Southern Holly, ought to be seen more com-
monly than it is, and should stand our dry Summers much better
than the European or Japanese species.
Propagate by seeds sown in the open ground. As soon as the
seeds are ripe, place them in wet sand for the Winter, and, when
the fleshy pulp is completely rotted, sow them in drills or beds
and cover them with one-half inch of light soil ; shade the yoimg
seedlings with branches for the first year; when the seedlings
are four inches high, transplant them into nursery rows one foot
apart; transplant them at least every two years until wanted.
The variegated varieties can be propagated only by grafting.
This should be done in early Spring before growth commences,
using seedlings of the common Holly as a stock.
llSTDIGOFERA
A genus of leguminous shrubs and herbs with purple, rose
or white flowers, natives of Australia and the United States and
at least one species indigenous to California. They grow in
sandy garden soil.
I "81
TREES
AND
SHRUBS
To get the best results, prune them back, in February, rather
severely so as to encourage the forming of young wood, on
which the fmest flowers are produced. Of the many species, aus-
tralis, decora and tinctoria will be found the best for the Coast.
Propagate, in Spring, by seeds or cuttings. Cover the seeds
to the depth of one-sixteenth of an inch.
loCHROMA
A small genus containing about fifteen species of tall shrubs
with slender stems, having opposite
entire leaves and long tubular-shaped
flowers growing in pendulous bunches
of ten or a dozen. Flowering late in
the Fall, they make a welcome addition
to our collection of flowering shrubs.
The best proven species are lochroma
grandiflora from Peru, lochroma lan-
ceolata a native of Chile and lochroma
tubulosa from Central America. They
should be grown in a sheltered situa-
tion and given plenty of manure and
water.
Propagate by cuttings in early
Fall; shade from direct sun.
lochroma tubulosa.
Itea
Itea Virginica is the only species of this genus widely grown
in California. There are at least four other species which would
make worthy additions to any shrubbery. As most of them flower
late in the Summer, a season of the year when few shrubs are in
bloom, they should be seen in our gardens more commonly than
they are.
[119]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
The Iteas thrive best in a moist sheltered situation in light
sandy loam.
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in
Spring, or by suckers taken, in Winter, from the base of old estab-
lished plants or by layers in July.
Jacaranda
This beautiful tree, which gives such splendid effects in the
warmer portions of this State, is a native of Brazil and should, to
do well, be given generous treatment and a warm situation away
from strong winds. It grows well in any garden soil which is
not too stiff and heavy.
The Jacaranda is propagated by means of cuttings placed
in a cold frame, during August, in soil composed of one-half sand
and one-half leaf-mold. The cuttings should be shaded during
strong sunshine until they form roots, and, when rooted, they
should be planted in small pots and afterwards given larger pots
as required.
JUGLANS
The Wahiut and Butternut belong to this genus, both being
noble park trees forming massive straight tnmks and wide-spread-
ing branches, while their handsome, pinnate, glossy leaves add
much to their attractive appearance. There are several species
including Juglans regia (the English Walnut), Juglans cinerea
(Butternut), Juglans nigra (the Eastern Black Walnut), Jug-
lans Califomica and the Japanese species, Juglans Sieboldiana.
All form grand park trees requiring considerable space for their
proper growth and development as well as deep well-drained
soil and sheltered situations.
Propagate by seeds planted, in Winter or early Spring, one
inch deep in nursery rows. Transplant the seedlings to their
permanent quarters when they are not more than two years old.
[120]
TREES AND SHRUBS
JUNiPERUS (Juniper)
Ornamental evergreen trees or shrubs with needle or scale-
like leaves set thickly on the stems or branches, the flowers being
inconspicuous and the fruit a small
cone-like berry. All are perfectly
hardy in California, being mostly
natives of temperate climates. The
genus contains species with low-
spreading habit of growth, well
adapted for covering rocky ledges
or forming groundwork for hiding
bare ground under large trees;
some having a stiff pyramidal habit
are much used in formal gardening,
while others make fine single speci-
mens on the lawn or planted in
groups about large pleasure- Junipenu Chinensli.
grounds.
The best of the species with bushy habit are Juniperus Chin-
ensis, Jimiperus commimis, Jimipenis Califomica, Juniperus
Suecica, Jimiperus Virginiana, Juniperus Bermudiana, and
Juniperus Fortunis. There are also many varieties of each of the
species, a number of which are very attractive. The best of the
creeping species are Juniperus sabina, Juniperus procumbens and
their varieties, many of which have variegated leaves.
Propagate, in October, by cuttings in sandy soil in a cold
frame; when they are rooted in Spring transplant them about
two inches apart into boxes and give them the room their growth
requires. They may also be propagated by seeds sown one six-
teenth of an inch deep in the open ground in Spring, the seeds
preferring a shady situation.
[121]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Kerria
Slender-branched deciduous twiggy shrubs with bright light-
green leaves and bright-yellow flowers. Being among our earli-
est Spring-flowering shrubs they are much in demand and should
be seen in every garden however small. The double-flowering
variety has the prettier flowers, but the single-flowered is the
more elegant in habit and keeps in flower for a much longer
period than the double-flowering variety.
Propagate by cuttings in the Fall or by division of the roots
in early Spring.
KCELREUTERIA PANICULATA
A small handsome deciduous tree from north China, with a
spreading, irregular habit of growth. It thrives best in good soil
and a sheltered situation where its long panicles of yellow blos-
soms are very attractive.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in early Fall.
Laburnum {Golden Chain)
Ornamental shrubs or small trees with trifoliate leaves and
pendulous racemes of pea-shaped flowers. They are all highly
ornamental and free-flowering and grow in any garden soil, but
in sunny California seem to desire a shady situation. Like many
deciduous trees they are liable to be attacked by the grey fungus
which has a tendency to harden and tighten the bark; when
this is the case, spray them in Winter with lye mixture.
The following are the best varieties of this very beautiful
Spring- flowering tree: — Laburnum vulgare. Laburnum vulgare
aureum (golden-yellow leaves), Laburnum vulgare involutum.
Laburnum vulgare quercifolium and Laburnum vulgare Watereri.
A species with purple flowers named Laburnum Adami, is also
well worthy of a place in any collection.
[122]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Propagate by seeds sown one quarter of an inch deep in the
open ground in early Spring; leave them in the seed-bed one
year and then transplant them to nursery rows where they should
remain until large enough to be planted out.
Lagerstrcemia {Crape Myrtle)
A strong-growing free-flowering deciduous shrub producing
an abundance of soft-fringed flowers during the Summer months.
The Crape Myrtle delights in a Ught rich soil and a warm sunny
situation, the climate of San Francisco being too cold for this
most beautiful shrub, so it is not advisable to plant it in that
neighborhood, but in the interior of the State and in southern
counties it should be in every yard. ■
Propagate by cuttings in the early Fall; grow them in pots
until they are ready to be planted out.
Lantana
A large genus of evergreen and deciduous shrubs belonging
to the Verbena family. Grow-
ing freely in any garden soil and
of a rambling habit of growth,
it is well adapted for forming
undergrowth for filling in open
spaces between upright grow-
ing shrubs or for forming thick-
ets under deciduous trees.
It also is very useful as a
covering for steep banks where
few plants of a shrubby charac-
ter are successful. It requires
very little artificial watering.
Propagate by cuttings in
October.
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Lasiandra (Pleroma)
The Lasiandra is another
of the Brazilian introductions
which has surprised many culti-
vators by doing so well out of
doors in our State. In Europe
and in the Eastern states, it is
treated as a hothouse plant and
given temperature strictly tropi-
cal, but here in California it
grows well and flowers splen-
didly, blooming in the open air
even in San Francisco from De-
cember until June. It requires
a sheltered situation and a light
sandy soil,
Lasiandra macrantha. There are many varieties of
this beautiful shrub but Lasiandra macrantha will be found the
best adapted for growing in this State.
Propagate by cuttings placed, in July or August, in a cold
frame in soil composed of sand and leaf-mold in equal pro-
portions.
Laurus camphora (Camphor-Tree)
This handsome evergreen is a native of Japan and produces
the camphor of commerce. It has a close pyramidal or oval-
shaped head with laurel-like leaves, the young leaves having a
pink tint which gives it a striking appearance in the landscape.
In the Southern and warmer portions of the State it makes a
very good sidewalk tree.
Propagate, in March, by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch
deep, or by cuttings, also in March, put into cutting-mixture,
composed of half sand and half leaf-mold; place in a cold frame
l"4l
TREES AND SHRUBS
until the cuttings are calloused and give gentle bottom heat until
rooted.
Laukus Nobilis
The Laurus nobilis is a handsome evergreen hardy tree, a
native of Southern Europe. It has dark-green, oblong, pointed
leaves, is of an upright habit and grows to the height of about
forty feet.
Propagate by cuttings inserted in sand in a cold frame, in
October.
Leptospermum
This handsome member of the Myrtle family is one of our
most popular shrubs, growing
vigorously in the poorest sand
and in the most exposed situa-
tion. It also is one of the best
shrubs for seaside planting. It
is of a semi-pendulous graceful
habit, and, when covered with
its long sprays of marble-white
flowers, makes a grand effect in
the landscape. Leptospermum
laevigatum is the best of the
species.
Propagate by seeds sown one-
eighth of an inch deep in Spring; Leptospennum.
prick them off about three inches apart in boxes, and plant them
out in their permanent quarters when they are a foot high.
[1271
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Leucadendron {Silver Tree)
This is the celebrated Silver Tree of South Africa. In the
Cape of Good Hope it grows to a height of about thirty feet.
It gets its name from its leaves which are of a soft silvery-white
color and densely covered with white silky hairs. It does well
in light loam and must have a warm sheltered situation where it
becomes, when in health, a very striking object. Leucadendron
argenteum, the best of the species, should be more commonly
seen as it forms a^ handsome tree.
Propagate by seeds secured from South Africa; plant them
one quarter of an inch deep as soon as received from their native
locality; start them in a warm greenhouse and be very careful
not to overwater them.
LiBOCEDRUS {Incense Cedar)
A genus comprising eight species; two are natives of New Zea-
land, one of California, two of
Chile, one of Japan, one of China,
and one of New Caledonia. Our
native species, Libocedrus decur-
rens is of a densely-branched habit
of growth and rather formal in
outline. Libocedrus Chilensis is
of the same habit but has leaves
of a light glaucous green. Libo-
cedrus Doniana, the New Zea-
land species, is also rather stiff and
formal in habit but differs from
the Chilean species in having
Ubocedrws decurreiw. bright-green leaves. All are of
easy growth and thrive in our climate if given shelter and well-
drained soil.
TREES AND SHRUBS
Propagate by seeds sown in Spring, one-quarter of an inch
deep in light sandy soil; protect them from hot sun until they
are one inch high when they may be planted in nursery beds out
of doors.
LiGUSTHUM (Privet)
This genus contains about twenty-five species of ornamental,
hardy, deciduous or evergreen shrubs or small trees indigenous
to Europe, temperate Asia and
Australia. They are easily cul-
tivated, will grow in any good
garden soil and make excellent
subjects for grouping in the
pleasure-garden. They flower
freely and remain in bloom for
several months. The Japanese
species Ligustrum Ibota, Ligu-
strum Japonicum, Ligustrum lu-
cidum and Ligustrum ovalifol-
ium, are among the best and
should be used freely in planting
large grounds. Ligustrum ovali- Ligustrum japonicum.
folium and Ligustrum Japonicum make good hedge plants.
Propagate by cuttings in the Fall, or by seeds sown in open
ground in Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth
of an inch.
LiQuiDAMBAR (Sweet Gum)
A small genus of about four species of which the North
American species Liquidambar Styraciflua is the best. It has a
maple-like leaf, grows to the height of about sixty feet, and,
when late in the Fall it has taken on its Autumn tints, it has a
1 129]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
very striking appearance. Its cork-like barked branches give it
a picturesque and interesting character, suitable for informal
planting. Plant in low sheltered situations in soft moist soil
and give plenty of water during the growing season.
Propagate by seeds sown in Spring in open ground, covered
to the depth of one-quarter of an inch.
LiRiODENDRON (TtUip'Tree)
The Tulip-tree, one of the most desirable of deciduous trees,
is of pyramidal habit with fiddle-shaped leaves and tulip-shaped
flowers. It makes a handsome avenue tree, being clean of stem
and of smooth foliage, turning bright-yellow in the Fall. It
must have rich bottom 'and and a sheltered situation to do well.
Propagate by seeds sown, in the Fall or as soon as ripe, in the
open ground. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of
an inch.
>
Lyonothamnus
A handsome evergreen tree found only in the islands of
Santa Barbara channel. In Santa Cruz Island it grows to the
height of sixty feet. This tree should make an excellent addi-
tion to our coast collection, and, as it is a rapid grower of good
habit and has a bright grass-green leaf, should be planted ex-
tensively.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sand in cool frame in October.
11301
TREES AND SHRUBS
Magnolia *
A highly ornamental genus of about twenty species of ever-
green or deciduous trees and shrubs. The evergreen Magnolia
grandiflora with its mas-
sive leaves and large
white fragrant flowers
is well adapted for plant-
ing either as single speci-
mens on the lawn or in
large or small groups.
The deciduous species,
Magnolia acuminata, is
a vigorous-growing lofty
tree with spreading
branches. Magnolia tri- Magnolia rtdlato.
petala is another strong vigorous grower which should be seen
more often. Besides those of tree form, many species are low-
growing, shrubby and very floriferous, some of them blooming in
early Spring before they unfold their leaves. These include Mag-
nolia conspicua and its varieties Magnolia Soulangeana, Magnolia
obovata, Magnoha parviflora and Magnolia stellata. The ba-
nana odor of the flower of Magnolia moschata is so powerful that
one or two flowers will perfume a whole house. Magnolias de-
light in a warm, sheltered situation, a rich sedimentary loam soil
and plenty of water during the growing season. If given these
conditions they will well repay any care bestowed on them.
Propagate,' about September, by layers or by sowing the
seeds, as soon as ripe, one-quarter of an inch deep in pots of
sandy leaf-mold under glass. When the young seedlings are
three inches high, pot them singly in three-inch pots and shade
them for a few days after which they may be given air and full
light.
[131]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
•• Maytenus
A genus of evergreen trees or shrubs mostly natives of Chile,
of an upright habit of growth, with myrtle-iike leaves, forming
very elegant and graceful shrubs with small white, yellow or red
flowers. Maytenus boaria (with white flowers) and Maytenus
Chilensis (bearing greenish-yellow flowers) are the most desir-
able species.
They thrive in any garden soil and in any situation, being
particularly adapted for growing in the Southern part of Cali-
fornia, while they also do well in San Francisco and neighbor-
hood.
Propagate by cuttings in early Fall.
Melaleuca
A genus comprising about one hundred species of mostly
evergreen shrubs or trees, na-
tives of Australia. All have
black stems and white-barked
branches. They are all highly
ornamental and graceful in
habit, thrive m poor soil and
require only a moderate supply
of water, — indeed, if well-cul-
tivated requiring no artificial
irrigation whatever.
Melaleuca decussata, Mela-
leuca fulgens and Melaleuca
Leucadendron will be foimd
Melaleuca Leucadendron. ^^^^^g ^^ ^^^ gp^^j^g f^,^ g^^.
eral cultivation.
Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe wood in Summer or by
seeds sown in March or April. Cover the seeds lightly.
(■32 1
Melaleuca Leucadendron.
TREES AND SHRUBS
Meua Azedarach {Umbrella Tree)
The Umbrella tree is one of the most popular shade trees in
California, being a rapid grower and of easy propagation, grow-
ing freely from seed. Its bright-green foliage, which it carries
until late in the season, together with its long sprays of fragrant
lilac-colored blossoms make it a general favorite through the
Me^iliu Japonlca.
warmer districts of the State, where it does exceedingly well ex-
cepting very close to the coast. There the fresh sea-wind whips
the long pinnate leaves from the exposed side, destroying its
symmetry and formal habit.
Propagate by seeds sown, one-quarter of an inch deep, in the
Fall; leave them one year in seed-bed and then transplant them
into nursery rows where they should be allowed to remain until
they are large enough to be planted in permanent quarters.
|i3Sl
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Melianthus major
The Melianthus is a shrub especially effective in large grounds
where fine subtropical effects are desired, as its graceful habit
and large glaucous leaves make it very desirable for this purpose.
This shrub is propagated by cuttings which should be placed
in a cold frame, during September or October, in soil composed
of sand and leaf-mold in equal proportions.
Mespilus (Medlar)
The Medlar, although considered more a fruit than an orna-
mental tree, is nevertheless frequently grown as the latter. This
is especially so in the case of the Japanese species which has
large handsome leaves and forms a very fine shade tree. Any
good garden soil is suitable for growing the Medlar.
Propagation of this tree is by means of seeds which should
be sown during Spring in a cold frame. The seeds should be
covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch.
Metrosideros
A genus of about eighteen species natives of the Pacific Islands,
New Zealand and New South
Wales, mostly shrubby in habit,
having narrow pointed leaves and
showy flowers, growing well in any
garden soil and requiring no arti-
ficial watering where the ground
is well cultivated and kept clear of
weeds.
Propagate by cuttings in early
Fall or by seeds sown, in Spring,
one-quarter of an inch deep in a
cold frame. When the seedlings
are one inch high, transplant them
Metroridenx robusta. two inches apart in boxes.
[136I
TREES AND SHRUBS
MoRUS Nigra {Mulberry)
The Mulberry is cultivated chiefly for feeding the silkworm.
It grows to the height of from twenty to sixty feet, having large
heart-shaped leaves and spreading habit; it should be given
fairly good soil and a sheltered situation.
Propagate by cuttings placed in open ground late in the Fall
after the leaves have dropped, or by seeds sown in Spring. Cover
the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch. The following
Spring transplant them one foot from each other into nursery
rows two feet apart.
Myrica
This genus contains only a few species, one indigenous to
California, one to Europe, two to Japan and one to Canada. It
grows to a height of sometimes forty feet, is bush-like in habit,
has a willow-like bright-green leaf and bears a purple or red
fruit. It delights in a Ught sandy soil in a sheltered situation
with plenty of moisture, preferably the margin of a lake or
swamp.
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in
Spring, or by cuttings placed in the open ground in October.
Myrtus {Myrtle)
The Myrtle is an extensive genus comprising over one hun-
dred species, mostly natives of Australia, South America and
Southern Europe. The common species (Myrtus communis) is
one of our most popular and best known shrubs, its fragrant
leaves and pretty white flowers making it a general favorite.
There are many handsome species, including Myrtus buUata
(which grows from ten to twenty feet high) and Myrtus apiculata.
It is of easy culture and grows well in any soil not too heavy,
being readily propagated by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold
in a cold frame in early Fall, or by seeds sown, in Spring, one
eighth of an inch deep in a cold frame.
[137]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
This genus contains but a
single species, the elegant Nan-
dina domestica. It is of upright
habit with compoimd leaves
which in the young state are
beautifully tinted with pink;
the fruit is oval in shape and
about the size of a large pea. It
is good for small grouping.
Propagate by division of the
roots in early Spring and by
seeds sown in Spring one-quarter
of an inch deep in a cold frame.
Nandina dometUca.
Nerium (Oleander)
A small genus of very ornamental evergreen flowering shrubs
of erect habit, natives of the Mediterranean regions. In the
warmer districts of the State the Oleander is a general favorite
on account of its easy culture and its generous long-continued
supply of gaily-colored flowers. Close to the coast, although
the Oleander grows to wood well enough, it does not flower
freely, therefore it is not recommended as a coast shrub or for
planting in San Francisco except against a wall facing the South.
Propagate by cuttings of ripe wood placed, about April, in
sandy leaf-mold in a warm propagating house; as soon as they
are rooted, pot them singly in three-inch pots and give them room
as required.
Oleaeia
A large genus mostly Australian. Some of them make beau-
tiful bushes and should be more often seen. They succeed in
I138I
TREES AND SHRUBS
any good soil and require little water if given thorough culti-
vation. The best flowering kinds are Olearia Forsteri, Olearia
Gunniana and Olearia Haastii.
Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe wood inserted, in October,
in sandy leaf-mold, placed in a cold frame, and kept close and
shaded from hot simshine for two weeks.
Olea EuROPiEA (Olive)
What the Elm or the Oak is to Northern Europe, what the
Conifers are to the Moimtains of California, the Ohve is to Italy,
where it is grown b6th for its oil and as an ornamental tree. As
a feature of the landscape it is very effective, its grey-green foli-
age and its soft willow-like habit fitting it well for grouping if
allowed to grow naturally and not subjected to the pruning-
knife.
It grows in any soil, even on a rocky hillside where it pro-
duces fine effects without irrigation.
Propagate, in Spring, by cuttings of either yoimg or old wood,
or by se^ds sown one-half inch deep in the open groimd; keep
them in the nursery until well established.
OSMANTHUS.
So named on account of the fragrance of its flowers. There
are several species (one American), the Japanese being the most
desirable.
Osmanthus aquifolium has handsome holly-like leaves, is
evergreen and of good habit, bearing white flowers. Osmanthus
fragrans has entire, elliptic-shaped leaves and bears yellow
flowers.
Propagate by cuttings set in a cold frame in the early Fall.
The Osmanthus is not particular as to soil, but prefers a warm
situation and partial shade from noonday sun.
[139]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Paexinsonia
This beautiful Mexican shrub, with its feathery drooping
branches and yellow flowers, is becoming a general favorite in
all of our gardens where a collection of fine shrubs is aimed at.
Propagate by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in a warm green-
house or frame; cover the seeds with a quarter of an inch of
soil. The seedlings should be transplanted to the open groimd
when they are six inches in height.
Paulownia
Ornamental deciduous trees with catalpa-like leaves and fox-
glove-like flowers, well adapted, when young, to give semi-
tropical broad-leaved effects, and, in well-sheltered situations and
good soil, making a good street tree.
Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one-quarter of an inch
deep in the open ground in light rich soil.
Philadelphus (Mock Orange)
Ornamental deciduous shrubs, with opposite leaves and white
flowers in terminal racemes on short branches appearing in May
and on until July. They are well
adapted for shrubbery imdergrowth,
liking partial shade. When exposed to
the full sun, the flowers are smaller and
lack the delicate tinting of those grown in
half shade. Any fair garden soil will
suit them as they are of easy culture.
Pnme the bushes as soon as the flowers
fade, to encourage the making of strong
young shoots to take the place of those
cut, as it is on the previous year's wood
that they flower.
There are several species worthy of
PhiUdeiphu. ^ pi^^^^ including Philadelphus coronar-
[140I
TREES AND SHRUBS
ius, Philadelphus Gordonianus, Philadelphus grandiflorus and
others of which some varieties have double flowers and some
variegated foliage.
Propagate by cuttings of ripe wood placed in sandy soil in
the open groimd in November or as soon as the leaves fall.
Phillykea
A genus comprising only four species, all evergreen and orna-
mental, natives of the Mediterranean regions. They have a
rather upright habit and small, myrtle-like, glossy, dark-green
leaves. The flowers are small and not showy. They grow freely
in any good garden soil to a height of ten feet and form a dense
bush.
Propagate by cuttings, in the Fall, placed in sandy soil in a
cold frame.
Photinia {California Redberry or Holly)
(Heteromeles serratifolia)
A genus of highly ornamental trees or shrubs mostly natives
of India, China and Japan, one being indigenous to Cahfomia.
All are handsomely leaved. Our native species is the glory of
our hillsides in Fall and Winter, and indispensable for decorating
our rooms and banquet halls at Christmastide, its great bunches
of crimson-red berries contrasting well with its glossy green
fohage. The Redberry delights in a sunny situation and a loose
rocky soil.
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in open
groimd in the Fall; transplant them when they are three inches
high and replant them each year imtil they are large enough to
be planted where required, as it is rather difficult to move them
safely when they are left too long in one place.
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
PiCEA
The Pitch Firs are classed among the most ornamental of the
Conifer family, all of the species being highly prized for their
beautiful form and tall pyramidal stately outline, making, when
in health, splendid specimens for decorating the lawn either
singly or in group form.
In addition to our native species, the Eastern and Japanese
species and even the Himalayan and Norwegian thrive in Cali-
fornia, growing well in any garden soil which is properly drained.
Propagate by seeds sown in Spring, one-quarter of an inch
deep, in a shady spot; transplant the following year.
PiMELIA
The Pimelias are among our most showy late-Winter and
early-Spring flowering shrubs, mostly
natives of Australia and New Zealand.
They have a neat compact habit of
growth, being easily grown and easily
propagated, while any fairly good soil
will suit them. They make eixcellent
plants for the margins of groups of taller-
growing shrubs, or in small groups by
themselves or singly in borders. There
are about seventy species, only a few of
which have been introduced into
California.
Propagate by cuttings placed in
Pimelia rosea. sandy leaf-mold, in a cold frame in
September or October; shade during hot sunshine; pot them
singly in small pots when they are rooted.
[14' I
TREES AND SHRUBS
PiNus {The Pine)
This hi^y ornamental as well as most useful genus com-
prises about seventy species indigenous to most of the North
Temperate Zone and contains many exceedingly ornamental and
picturesque trees for landscape improvement. Pinus insignis
(the Monterey Pine) by many authorities is considered to be the
most ornamental of all the species either native or foreign. An-
other native, Pinus Lambertiana (Sugar Pine) is without doubt
the most gigantic of all. The Pine is not particular as to soil
provided it is well drained, although there are some, such as
Pinus Murrayana and Pinus rigida, which prefer a wet or swampy
situation.
California is very rich in varieties of this genus, no less than
sixteen species being indigenous to this coast.
A Group of Pines.
I143I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Among the most desirable foreign species may be included
Pinus Cembra, Pinus halepensis and Pinus Pinea (the Italian
Stone Pine) perhaps the most picturesque species of the genus.
TTiis Pine prefers a sandy soil and a seaside sheltered situation.
Propagate by seeds sown, in March or April, from one-quarter
to one-half an inch deep (according to the size of the seeds) in a
cold frame. When the young seedlings are two or three inches
high, they should be placed in nursery rows in the open groimd,
and, when from twelve to eighteen inches high, should be planted
out in their permanent quarters in Winter.
PiTTOSPORUM
The Pittosporums form a large genus of over one hundred
species, all evergreen and mostly natives of the Australian
group. All the introduced spe-
cies are of the easiest culture and
not particular as to soil. They
make grand single specimens on
the lawn, besides being very
effective In grouping, and also
make excellent ornamental
hedge plants.
The species best adapted to
California are Pittosporum cras-
sifolium, Pittosporum eugenio-
ides, Pittosporum nigricans,
Pittosporum tobira and Pitto-
Pittosporum undulatum. sporum undulatum.
Propagate by seeds sown in March one-quarter of an inch
deep, in a cold frame, or by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold
in a cold frame in September.
[144]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Platanxjs (Plane-Tree; Sycamore)
This genus contains only three species, all being magnificent
trees for parks and large grounds. To grow well, they should
have a deep, soft moist soil and a well-sheltered site, preferably a
river bottom where their roots may easily reach perennial waters.
Propagate by seeds; the seeds are contained in round balls
which must be broken to free the seeds. Sow in February, one-
eighth of an inch deep in a shady place, and keep them well
watered until they germinate; transplant them to nursery rows
when they are one year old.
Plumbago
A genus comprising about ten species of hardy shrubs or
annual herbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, the East Indies
and Southern Europe.
Plumbago capensis (the pale-blue variety) is the most popu-
lar of the species, being admirably adapted for training on trel-
lises or pillars as is also Plumbago Zeylanica (the white-flower-
ing variety). The latter does well as a garden shrub. Whether
grown as a shrub or for the purpose of covering walls or trellises,
it should be cut back hard after the flowering season is over in the
late Fall.
Propagate by suckers, which should be taken off in the early
Spring and placed in nursery rows, or by cuttings placed in a
cold frame in Ught sandy leaf-mold in September.
PoiNCiANA (Peacock- flower)
A genus of very pretty flowering trees or shrubs, natives
of the West Indies and Eastern North Africa. They must have
a warm simny situation where they form grand effects in Summer
and Autunm.
[1451
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Poinciana pulcherrima (the East Indian species) grows to
the height of about twelve feet and bears great masses of orange-
yellow flowers.
Poinciana regia (from Madagascar) is the largest of the
genus, reaching, under favorable conditions, the height of from
thirty to forty feet and having a trunk three feet in diameter.
With its beautiful bipinnate leaves two feet in length it is very
effective in the garden or grounds, especially when it is covered
with its gorgeous masses of bright scarlet and yellow flowers.
Propagate by cuttings in the Fall (protect them with glass
frame during the first Winter), or by seeds sown, in early Spring,
in a cold frame; cover the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of
an inch.
POLVGAIA
The Polygala is an extensive genus comprising over two
hundred species, only a few of which are worthy of cultivation,
Polygala Dalmaisiana (the com-
mon species) being the best of
the genus.
It loves a cool climate near
the coast away from frost, al-
though it will stand a few de-
grees without injury. The Poly-
gala, like the European Whin,
seems to flower every month in
the year and has a neat dwarf
bushy habit.
Propagate by cuttings placed
_ in a cold frame in sand and
PolygaUDalmai^ian.. leaf-mold, in October; when
rooted, pot them off singly in thumb-pots, shading the newly
potted plants until they get over the change.
[146]
TREES AND SHRUBS
PopuLUS (Poplar)
A well known genus of deciduous trees natives of Europe,
Asia and America. The genus contains about eighteen species,
many of which, when given congenial soil, are among the most
rapid growers of the forest. They thrive best in a deep damp
soil, where the underground water is near the surface, or along
the banks of creeks or watercourses.
The favorite species are the Carolina, the Lombardy (pyra-
midalis), the Aspen and the Silver-leaved.
Propagate by cuttings placed in the open ground in
November.
Prunus (Plum)
The Plum is one of our earliest flowering trees, often opening
its showers of pink and white blossoms early in January. It forms
a most handsome tree and should be
seen in the landscape much more com-
monly than it is, growing freely in any
fairly good soil and requiring no irriga-
tion if the soil is kept loose and free
from w( eds.
The first to bloom is the Prunus
Pissardii (a native of Persia) having
white flowers tinted with pink, while, a
little later, its reddish-purple leaves and,
in the Fall, its handsome light-red fruit
make it a very desirable small tree. It
grows to the height of about thirty feet.
Prunus Mume, the famous flowering Pninus rineniu.
Plum of Japan, with its showers of bright pink blossoms, makes
a handsome feature in the landscape. Groups of this beautiful,
hardy, free-flowering tree are most effective when grown with a
li47l
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
background of dark-foliaged fir, spruce or yew, or flanked with a
belt of Japanese Retinospora retusa.
Prunus pendula, the Weeping Japanese Cherry is a smail
tree growing to the height of twenty feet having drooping branches
forming a pyramid. When in bloom it is very beautiful, being
graceful in habit and covered with myriads of cherry pink blos-
soms.
There are many other species which are very desirable for
decorating the shrubbery, such as the double-flowering Prunus
sinensis flore pleno, with pink or white flowers, and Prunus tri-
loba, also a double-flowering species of shrubby habit.
Propagate by cuttings inserted in the open ground in No-
vember, or by seeds planted about one inch deep and three inches
apart, in Spring.
PxraiCA Gbanatum {Pomegranate)
The Pomegranate is a small deciduous tree, native of Persia,
with bright scarlet and orange-
colored flowers and ornamental
subacid-flavored fruit. It forms a
very pretty low tree or shrub
when in flower in early Summer
and again when in fruit in the
Fall. The double-flowered va-
riety makes an excellent bush or
hedge.
Any good garden soil suits it
as it is easily grown if given good
cultivation.
Propagate by cuttings, layers
Punka granatum. or suckers in Autumn after the
leaves fall.
[1481
TREES
AND
SHRUBS
Pyrus {Apple)
The color effects produced by masses of apple-blossoms are
among the finest of any flowering tree,
especially in the case of the double and
semi-double-flowering varieties. Fruit
trees which have beautiful flowers
should be planted in group form for
their landscape effects much more com-
monly than they are. The Belle-fleur
Apple, planted, say six in a group, with
a background of dark foliage, gives,
when in flower, one of the most pleas-
ing effects possible, and besides, if
given good cultivation, furnishes just
as fine fruit as if planted in orchard
form. Pyrus floribunda.
Pyrus floribunda, Pyrus Japonica, Pyrus Malus, and its
varieties,, Pyrus Americana, and Pyrus aucuparia (the Mountain
Ash) are all valuable in landscape work.
Propagate by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep in
Spring; transplant, the following Spring, into nursery rows
one foot apart in the row, the rows being two feet apart from
each other.
QuERCUs {Oak)
The Oaks belong to all countries which enjoy a temperate
climate, and every country owning them is proud of its Oaks
with their immense trunks, their picturesque character and great
spread of limbs. For landscape effects on a large scale the Oak
tree is indispensable, its rugged stem and twisted branches fur-
nishing an element of character not to be found in any other
genus.
All of the family are worthy of a place in any collection,
but our natives should be preferred, as they give the same general
[149I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
effects as the Eastern and the European species; besides we
know that our native species are sure to be long-lived, as they
are comparatively free from disease and immune from the at-
ta,cks of injurious insects. Many Oak trees which are long-lived
in their native countries have proved to be short-lived when
transplanted to a foreign country. The English Oak, for in-
stance, which in Europe lives, under favorable conditions, to the
great age of from fifteen hundred to eighteen himdred years, is
said to show signs of decay when it reaches the age of from
fifty to seventy years in the Eastern States. Native trees, there-
fore, should at all times be given the preference when the in-
digenous species give the effects desired.
The White Oak delights in a deep rich heavy loam resting
on a clay subsoil, the Live Oak in a rich loam on a gravel sub-
soil. Stagnant water about the roots of a Live Oak will cause the
Quercus suber.
|i5°l
TREES AND SHRUBS
tree to become sickly and to fail to grow satisfactorily. Our
native Black Oak, one of our most desirable species, loves a rich
pocket of soil on a sheltered hillside. In such a situation it is one
of the most attractive and noble of all the Oak family.
California is justly proud of its Oaks, and it is hoped that
owners of fine specimens, of whatever kind or species, will spare
them as long as possible, remembering that it takes at least a
hundred years to grow them and that many of our grand speci-
men Oaks were large trees when Drake and Balboa first visited
the Coast.
Among the most desirable non-indigenous species are the
English Oak (Quercus Robur), the Turkey Oak (Quercus Cerris),
the Cork Oak (Quercus suber), the Pin Oak (Quercus palustris),
the Willow Oak (Quercus Phellos) and the Southern Evergreen
Oak (Quercus Virginiana) while all the others are well worthy
of prominent places in large pleasure-grounds, public or private.
Propagate by seeds planted one inch deep as soon as ripe;
transplant them when one year old, into nursery rows, and again
transplant them at least every two years until they are large
enough to be planted in their permanent quarters.
Retinospora
A genus of conifers closely allied to the Cypress and Thuya
families and mostly native of Japan.
They are all worthy of a place in a garden of choice plants,
some being pyramidal in form while others are round-headed and
bush-like.
The golden Retinospora with yellowish foliage and the silver
variegated are effective.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sand in a cold frame in October
or November.
[1511
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Rhamnus {Buckthorn — Wild Coffee)
This handsome evergreen or deciduous shrub is one of those
most suitable for being planted in the portion of the grounds
farthest distant from the water hydrant as it requires little at-
tention after the first year. It grows in any soil, forms a dense
mass of foliage, and, for planting as a shelter belt or screen, is
equaled by few shrubs.
For general planting purposes, Rhamnus Califomicus, our
native wild coffee, will be found one of the most satisfactory.
Propagate by seeds planted either in the open border or
wherever the shrub is desired, covering the seeds to the depth of
half an inch.
Rhododendron
The Rhododendron is justly classed among the noblest of
shrubs, its laurel-like foliage, its massive habit and gorgeous
trusses of flowers making it,when well grown, one of our fa-
vorite evergreens.
The Rhododendron prefers a shady situation and a moist at-
mosphere; it also likes a light sandy soil and plenty of water
at the roots but abhors Ume and alkaU either in the soil or in the
water.
Rhododendron Catawbiense and its varieties seem to do better
than any other species in California, although some of the
Himalayan species, where well protected, make good growth
and flower freely, in some instances making three feet growth
in a single season.
Rhododendron Calif omicum becomes a splendid specimen and
should be seen more often. Rhododendron ponticum and its
varieties are doing excellently where the conditions are favora-
ble, as are also the many hybrids now being introduced.
The Rhododendron must be kept away from cold draughty
[152]
TREES AND SHRUBS
situations and must have shade in the Summer season with
plenty of water at the roots, — ^but no stagnant water.
Propagate by seeds sown in Spring. As the seeds are very
minute they should be sown in pots or pans which should first
be thoroughly well drained and
filled with sandy peat; press the
soil firm and smooth; soak thor-
oughly with water and, after
sowing, press in the seeds and
cover them lightly with silver-
sand; place the pans in gentle
heat and shade imtil the young
seedlings appear when they
should be given more air and
light; when they are large
enou^ to be handled, prick
them off into pots and r^lace
them in the same temperature Rhododendron.
until they take fresh root when they should be placed in a cold
frame and given room as required.
Propagation may also be effected by planting cuttings of the
, yoimg wood, in August or September, in soil composed of half
silver-sand and half leaf-mold in a shaded cold frame or under
a tree sheltered from cold winds.
RoBDiiA (Locust)
"Hie Locust is one of the most desirable of the deciduous trees.
It has handsome pinnate leaves and bears its flowers in long ra-
cemes of white, rose or purple blossoms. Any good garden soil
is suitable for its growth.
Propagate by seeds sown in the open ground during early
Spring; cover the seeds one-half inch deep. In the following
Spring the seedlings should be transplanted into nursery rows.
[153]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
RoMNEYA CouLTERi (MalUija Poppy)
The Romneya is beyond doubt the finest of all wild flowers,
none of the newly introduced varieties of the Poppy family being
— equal to this wonderful native
flowering shrub. Every garden,
unless extremely small, should
have its plant of Matilija Poppy.
The Ronmeya Coulteri
thrives in any soil (provided
it is well drained) and re-
quires no artificial irrigation, but
it must have a sheltered, sumiy
exposure in order to perfect its
large and beautiful Peony-like
white flowers.
This Poppy is propagated by
Romneya Coulter). seeds sown in a warm frame
during early Spring, sandy leaf-mold being used and the seeds
being covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch. It may also
be propagated at the same season by division of the roots.
Salix (IVillow)
This genus contains over one hundred and fifty species, in-
digenous from the farthest North of the Alaskan timber-hne to
Mexico and from Nonvay to the Levant. The Willow loves a
sheltered valley and a moist soil by the side of a stream where
its bunches of rootlets may be seen floating on the water.
Salix alba (the White Willow) and its variety vitellina (the
Golden Willow) and Salix babylonica (the Babylonian Weeping
Willow) are among the best for ornamental planting.
Propagate, in November, December or January, by placing
a cutting, of any size or length, one-third of its length in any
soil; give it plenty of water.
1 154)
TREES AND SHRUBS
Sambucus (Elder)
A genus of low trees or shrubs comprising about twelve spe-
cies, all hardy, which will grow in any soil or situation, even the
most exposed.
Our native species, Sambucus glauca, grows to the height of
about twenty feet and is common throughout the State. It is
not recommended as an ornamental tree or shrub for large plant-
ing in ornamental grounds but rather as a shelter shrub in ex-
posed situations and in poor soil. Sambucus racemosa is very
similar in habit to Sambucus glauca, only the berries, instead of
being black, are bright scarlet and are much more effective in the
landscape on that account.
Sambucus aurea, a golden-leaved variety, is a fine ornamental
plant, and, when planted in masses in the shrubbery, is very
effective.
Propagate by cuttings placed in the open ground late in
October.
ScHiNUS MoLLE {Pepper-Tree)
The Pepper-tree is a universal favorite and is worthy of a
place in every garden, its graceful semipendulous habit of growth
with its pleasing rounded outline and the olive-green color of its
compound leaves contrasting well with most of the other trees
and shrubs.
Schinus moUe, a native of Peru, is much the most handsome
species of the genus and is the only species recommended for
general planting. The Pepper grows well in any ordinary gar-
den soil with very little cultivation and is highly reconunended
for planting in the vicinity of chicken yards and outhouses.
Propagate by seeds sown, one-eighth of an inch deep, in a
cold frame in early Spring; pot off the seedlings singly in three-
inch pots when they are three inches high, and give them room
as required.
[155]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Sequou , (Redwood)
The giant Redwood of California has a world-wide reputa-
tion and is one of the wonders of the State, being without doubt
the largest of the great family of
Conifers. As a landscape tree
it is possibly a little formal in
habit, but, when a stately
conical massive group of form-
ally shaped trees is required, no
tree is more effective, yoimg
specimens, from fifty to one him-
dred years of age and of the
same number or more feet in
height, forming magnificent
groups in any landscape.
The Sequoia gigantea loves
Sequoia gigantea. [hg moimtains and is foimd
growing only in sheltered valleys over four thousand feet above
the sea level, in deep soil within dose proximity to the snow-line
and also where perennial water is percolating within a few feet
of the surface of the soil.
Sequoia sempervirens, on the contrary, prefers a- low altitude
near the coast but otherwise requires the same conditions of
deep soil, reasonable shelter and water close to the surface.
Although seldom found growing more than thirty miles away
from the coast, it is rarely foimd nearer the coast than from
three to four miles, the harsh winds blowing in from the ocean
seeming to blast off the leaves and stunt the growth of any which
sprout within close range of the ocean, unless they are given
shelter.
Propagate, in Spring, by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch
deep in boxes placed in a cold frame; prick off the seedlings as
soon as they are large enough to be handled and plant them in
lis61
TREES AND SHRUBS
nursery rows in the open ground until they are from twelve to
eighteen inches high when they should be planted in their per-
manent situations.
SoLLYA HETER03PHYLLA (Atistrolian Utie-hdl)
The SoUya is a very pretty semi-twiner with blue bell-shaped
flowers and is valuable for finishing small groups, covering a
steep slope, rockeries, etc.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sand in a cold frame in Octo-
ber or by seeds sown under glass in early Spring.
SOPHORA
*
A genus of hardy deciduous or evergreen trees or shrubs
mostly natives of China, India and Japan, one being a native of
New Mexico and another indigenous to Chile. They thrive well
in any good well-drained loamy soil not too stiff.
Sophora Japonica, the Japanese Pagoda Tree, is the most
handsome of the genus, having a graceful form and pleasing
outline.
Propagate by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep in the
open groimd in Spring. The weeping and variegated forms are
increased by grafting, in Winter, on the common stock at the
height of stem desired.
Plant in a rather low, well-sheltered situation and give plenty
of water at the roots during the growing season.
SoRBUS AUCUPARIA {Mountain Ash)
A genus of ornamental deciduous trees or shrubs, all hardy
in Califomia, the genus comprising about thirty species. AU
have handsome foliage and many have showy bunches of red
berries which remain long on the bushes, often until late in the
Winter.
[157]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
One species (Sorbus sambucifolia) is a native of California
but is only found wild in the Sierras at an elevation of from
five thousand to eight thousemd feet.
There are several other species, including the Service tree
(Sorbus domestica) and the Eastern (Sorbus Americana) all
worthy of cultivation.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-eighth of an
inch deep in the open ground.
Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom)
The Spanish Broom is one of the shrubs best suited for plant-
ing in the background in portions of the garden removed from the
reach of the hose as it requires no artificial
irrigation after the first year. It grows in the
poorest of soil and on the dryest hillside.
It is a native of the Canary Islands and the
shores of the Mediterranean.
It gives its best effect, especially if viewed
from a little distance, when growing in masses
on a rocky hillside (facing the sun) and sur-
rounded by Pines or other dark-green foliage,
its bright yellow, pea-shaped flowers, which
completely hide the leaves, making the color
effect very striking. This is especially notice-
able as it blooms in the late Autumn when few
Spartium funceum. qJ ^y^ flowering shrubs are in bloom.
Excepting a semi-double variety, no variation in this species
has yet been found.
This shrub is propagated by sowing the seeds during Winter
or early Spring in the open ground or in a cold frame, the seeds
being covered to the depth of half an inch. When the seedlings
are four inches high they should be transplanted into pots, and,
during the following Spring, set out in their permanent situations.
[158I
TREES AND SHRUBS
SPIILfiA
A genus comprising about fifty species of handsome flower-
ing shrubs mostly deciduous. All are hardy, free-flowering
and of easy culture, and no
garden is complete without a
collection of these most beauti-
ful shrubs. They are excellent
subjects for bordering groups of
taller or more strongly-growing
kinds which alone are apt to
form stiff or too formal effects.
A good collection of this
genus, when weU grown, will
give a supply of flowers for
quite a long season; for instance
Spiraea Chinensis commences
blooming early in March and is Spiraea,
succeeded by Spiraea prunifolia; then foUow the beautiful white-
flowered sweet-scented Spiraea media, the rosy-red Spiriea Ja-
ponica and the Queen of the Prairie (Spirtea lobata) with delicate
peach-colored flowers, while Spiraea Lindleyana, the latest flow-
ering of aU, blooms in September. These, with the addition of
many varieties (including our native species Spirxa Douglasii,
Spirtea Aruncus, Spirsea riiiliefolia, Spiraea opulifolia, Spirsea
dumosa, etc.) make a most desirable collection in any garden.
The Spirasa grows freely in any good soil with ordinary care
and a reasonable amount of water during the growing season.
Spiraea Aruncus, Spirtea palmata and other herbaceous species
prefer a damp, moist situation, particularly the bank of a stream
where their fibrous roots may reach the water.
The herbaceous species are best propagated by division of the
roots, and the shrubby kind either by division of the roots or by
[iS9l
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
cuttings, placed in the open ground in sandy soil in October or as
soon as they shed their leaves.
Stebculia
A genus of evergreen trees or shrubs comprising about sixty
species, mostly natives of Australia, Asia- and South America.
They form stately trees of rather formal habit of stem and head,
well adapted, under suitable conditions, for making good street
trees. The best species for California are Sterculia acerifolia
(the Australian Flame tree), StercuUa diversifolia (from Vic-
toria) and Sterculia platanifolia (a native of China). All are
fairly vigorous and prefer a warm sheltered situation.
Propagate by cuttings of well-ripened wood placed, in Sep-
tember, in a cool frame and shaded during hot sunshine until
rooted, or by seeds sown in Spring, Cover the seeds to the depth
of one-eighth of an inch.
Streptosolen
The Streptosolen is one of the finest of our trailing or creep-
ing shrubs and is admirably
adapted for covering slopes, for
hanging over walls or for car-
peting the groimd among tall
shrubs, its tubular orange-col-
ored flowers being very at-
tractive.
Propagation of the Strepto-
solen is effected by cuttings
placed in a cold frame, during
October, in sandy leaf-mold.
Late in the following Spring, or
as soon as the cuttings are well
Streptosolen. rooted, they should be planted in
pots or in the open border.
[i6o]
TREES
AND
SHRUBS
Styrax
The Styrax is one of our most desirable flowering shrubs, hav-
ing leaves about three inches in length and graceful white pen-
dulous flowers. It becomes a handsome object in the shrubbery
and is good for cutting for table or hall decoration in vases.
Of this genus, Styrax serrulata (a native of Japan) is one of
the best for planting in California.
Propagate by seeds sown, as soon as ripe, one-quarter of an
inch deep in light sandy loam in the open ground.
When the seedlings are one year old they should be trans-
planted, in early Spring, into nursery rows and set about six
inches apart.
SWAINSON^
A genus comprising many species of
elegant hardy shrubs with rather
spreading habit, which, when planted
in conjunction with other shrubs hav-
ing stout upright branches, form a
charming combination. Being all Aus-
tralian, they take kindly to our climate
and should be seen more often.
Propagate either by seeds or by cut-
tings put in sandy soil in a cool frame
any time from July to October. Cover
the seeds to the depth of one-sixteenth
of an inch.
Syncarpia
Syncarpia laurifolia is one of Australia's largest trees, grow-
ing in that country to the height of two hundred feet. It has
a rather spreading habit of growth and prefers a warm sunny
situation ; as it is very sensitive to cold, it should not be planted
[i6i]
G^A RDENING IN CALIFORNIA
where the thermometer falls below twenty-six degrees Fahrenheit.
It thrives in any good soil in any situation not too moist.
Propagate by seeds sown, in March or April, not more than
one-sixteenth of an inch deep, in a warm greenhouse, and potted
ofE when three inches high; plant them in permanent quarters
when they are about three feet in height.
Syringa {Lilac)
This favorite shrub,'' which flowers in early Spring, should
be represented in every garden however small. It grows freely
in any good garden soil but will
amply repay such extra atten-
tion as it may receive in the way
of the removal of suckers or a
little additional top dressing.
There are about ten species
in the genus, including the Per-
sian (Syringa Persica), the
European (Syringa vulgaris),
and the Japanese (Syringa Ja-
ponica). These spedes have a
number of varieties in many
shades of color, varying from
Syringa vulgaris. the deepest purple to the purest
white.
The Lilac is easily propagated by means of the suckers which
are produced at the base of the established plant. These should
be taken from the parent plant during Winter or early Spring
and placed six inches apart in nursery rows, the distance between
the rows being two feet. Here the young plants should remain
until they are required for permanent planting.
1 162]
TREES AND SHRUB'S
Tamarix
No shrub is better adapted to the planting of any waste spot
or the filling up of a gap on the bank of a creek or where some
other shrub has failed to grow. It stands exposure well, grow-
ing even within the spray of salt water or in alkali soil; in fact,
it thrives under almost any conditions, preferring a sandy soil
however, and a situation within the influence of the sea air.
The Tamarix Gallica, Tamarix orientalis, Tamarix plumosa,
and Tamarix parviflpra are all very desirable.
Propagate by inserting cuttings into sandy soil in the open
ground in the Winter months.
Taxodium (Swamp Cypress)
An excellent tree for semi-aquatic situations, having a soft
light-green fern-like foliage. It is
very graceful in habit and highly
ornamental. The genus comprises
several species including Taxo-
dium distichum (from Louisiana)
and Taxodium mucronatum, the
Montezuma Cypress (from
Mexico).
Propagate by cuttings, during
the Winter months, placed in a
vessel of water where they will
root in a few weeks, or by seeds
sown one-eighth of an inch deep
in light sandy soil, and placed Taxodium.
in a warm greenhouse in Spring.
I1631
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Taxus {The Yew)
The Taxus comprises about eight species, natives of the East-
em States, Europe and Japan, one being indigenous to California
while another is a native of Mexico.
Taxus baccata, the common English Yew, is indigenous to
most of the countries of Europe and extends even to British
India. It grows, under favorable conditions, to the height of
fifty feet with a trunk five feet in diameter. It has many vari-
eties, including Taxus baccata argentea (having leaves striped
with silvery white), Taxus baccata aurea (having leaves broadly
edged with yellow, this being a very desirable variety for plant-
ing in small groimds or for grouping among other Yews in larger
grounds) and Taxus baccata fastigiata, the Irish Yew, or, as it is
sometimes named, the Florence Court Yew, a species much used
in formal gardens.
The Yew grows in any soil and in any situation not too much
exposed to harsh winds, and while it loves a semi-shady situation
on the bank of a stream, it does well under any ordinary garden
conditions.
Propagate by seeds sown one-sixteenth of an inch deep in the
open groimd in Spring, or by cuttings inserted in September in
sandy soil in a cool frame and shaded for a few weeks during hot
sunshine. The variegated varieties are increased by grafting, in
Winter, on the common species. They may also be propagated
by layering in Siunmer.
Templetonia {Coral Bush)
A most beautiful ornamental shrub with simple leaves, a
dense bushy habit and pea-shaped blossoms of bright crimson.
It grows easily in any common soil and with very little irrigation,
preferring a rather dry gravelly soil and a warm, sheltered situa-
tion where it well repays any attention bestowed upon it.
[164]
TREES AND SHRUBS
Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold in a cold
frame in September.
Thuya
A genus of coniferfe comprising about a dozen species of hardy
evergreen trees or shrubs, natives of America and Asia, two of
them being indigenous to the Pacific
Coast. Thuya gigantea, one of
the Coast species, is a tall hand-
some evergreen graceful tree of
pyramidal habit with somewhat
drooping branches, and grows,
under favorable circumstances,
from one hundred to two hundred
feet high with a diameter of stem
from three to six feet, thriving well
in any well-drained garden soil.
Propagate by seeds sown one-
eighth of an inch deep in boxes
fiUed with light sandy soil in a Thuya giganua.
cold frame in early Spring. Transplant them into open nursery
rows when they are three inches high, and plant them in their
permanent quarters when they are about two feet high.
The Chinese species (Thuya orientalis), of a dwarf habit, is
much used in cemeteries and formal gardens, its formal sym-
metrical habit making it a favorite in that style of gardening.
Thuya occidentalis, the eastern species, grows to a height of about
sixty feet and forms a narrow pyramidal rather compact head.
The different species have many garden varieties, and a num-
ber of them, including variegated forms, are very beautiful.
These are propagated by cuttings placed in sand in a cold frame
in the Fall or by grafting on the original species in early Spring.
[i6sl
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Thxjyopsis dolabeata
This small genus comprises only a few species natives of
Japan. Their foliage is much like that of the Thuya but the
habit is spreading and more open. They make handsome rock-
work plants. They grow easily in any garden soil.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in sandy soil
mixed with leaf-mold, in October.
TiLiA (Linden)
The Linden is one of the most desirable of the large-growing
trees, being symmetrical and formal in habit, especially when
young. As a single specimen on the lawn or as an avenue tree
it is unequalled. It loves a deep light loam and a sheltered site.
There are several species, one a native of the Eastern States
and one of Europe. These species have a number of varieties,
the leaves of some of them being variegated.
The Linden is propagated by seeds which should be sown as
soon as ripe in the open ground one-quarter of an inch deep.
ToRREYA (False Nutmeg Tree)
Ornamental evergreen trees with spreading branches and
dark-green yew-like foliage. The
Torreyas grow well in any well-
drained soil and make handsome
specimens for the lawn, either singly
or planted in groups. Our native
species (Torreya Coulteri) the hand-
somest of the genus, grows to a height
of about one hundred feet^, Torreya
grandis grows to about the same
height as does also the Florida species.
All are propagated by seeds
planted one inch deep and three
inches apart in the open ground in
Torreya Coulteri. early Spring. They should be trans-
|i661
TREES AND SHRUBS
planted into nursery rows the following Spring, and, when from
eighteen inches to two feet high, should be planted where they
are to remain.
Tristania
A small genus of Australian trees belonging to the Myrtle
family having leaves about eight inches in length and oval in
diape. When full-grown, the Tristania forms a stately tree,
being evergreen with an open head, and should make a good
street tree.
Propagate by seeds sown in Spring (covering the seeds very
lightly with light sandy soil), or by cuttings of half-ripe wood
in the Fall, placed in sand in a cold frame and shaded from sun
for two or three weeks. When they are rooted, plant them in
three-inch pots, giving them larger pots as the roots require.
Ulmus (Elm)
A genus comprising about twenty species of lofty deciduous
trees, greatly used in parks and
large grounds for grouping, and
also as avenue and street sidewalk
trees. In good soil the Elm is a
rapid grower.
In cultivating the Elm, care
should be taken, when plowing or
spading about the roots, not to in-
jure them, for, if the least scratch
or bruise is made, there shoots up
a bunch of suckers which are diffi-
cult to get rid of.
Ulmus Americana, Ulmus cam-
pestris, Ulmus scabra, and their Ulmu*.
varieties are considered the best species for general planting.
Propagate by seeds, sown one-eighth of an inch deep in the
open ground, as soon as ripe which is generally in June; or by
[1671
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
layers or suckers in Winter or early Spring before the buds swell;
or by grafting in Winter; or by budding in May.
Umbellularia Calipornica {California Laurel)
This genus contains but one species and is found only on the
Pacific Coast. The Laurel is one of our grandest evergreens,
being handsome even in the nursery; when from fifteen to forty
feet high it forms a fine pyramid, and, when fully grown in
favorable soil, is a magnificent specimen. It loves a deep well-
drained soil, preferably on the bank of a stream.
No evergreen tree, native or exotic, is better adapted for
forming groups of dense foliage than the California Laurel if
given a suitable place. In the hot interior valleys it is apt to be
attacked by scale, so, on that account, should be given a shady
situation and plenty of water at the roots during the dry season.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one inch deep in
the open ground. Transplant them into nursery rows when the
young plants are six inches high.
Veronica
A genus comprising about one hundred and fifty species of
shrubs or herbs, all being showy
i and free- flowering with blue,
j crimson or white flowers. They
grow well in any garden soil in
almost any situation, either in
the sun or the shade, and stand
exposure to harsh winds better
than most shrubs. Their habit
is compact and very well adapted
to finishing groups of strong-
growing shrubs or trees, con-
necting perfectly the foliage of
the strong-growing upright- hab-
Veronlca deciuuta. jted with the grassy slope or level
[168]
TREES
SHRUBS
lawn. Their foliage is smooth, carries no dust and is always glossy
and fresh looking. They flower in racemes and are always in
bloom.
The shrubby species are mostly natives of New Zealand.
There are many species of this most desirable shrub, includ-
ing Veronica Andersonii, Veronica buxifolia, Veronica decussata,
Veronica Colensoi, Veronica elliptica, etc., all being excellent
shrubs, especially for the coast counties, but they are not re-
commended for the central counties unless planted under the
shade of trees or on a Northern exposure.
Propagate by cuttings placed in light sandy soil in a cold
frame in September or October.
VreuRNUM
A genus comprising about eighty species of deciduous and
evergreen low trees and shrubs,
all being hardy in California.
Many of the species are highly
ornamental, Viburnum Tinus
being grown in almost every
garden in the State, while Vi-
burnum Opulus sterilis (the
Common Snowball) is also a
universal favorite. No decidu-
ous flowering shrub is better
suited to the planting of shrub-
bery borders than the Snowball,
its many varieties, its great
masses of white pendant cymes in Spring, and its beautiful tmted
leaves in the Fall making it most desirable.
These excellent qualities, combined with its easy culture in
any ordinary soil (although it prefers a moist soil and parUal
shade) should commend it to all lovers of flowering shrubs.
[1691
viburnum Tlniu.
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
In addition to the above named, Virburaum Japonicum,
Viburnum tomentosum, Viburnum macrophyllum (Chinese Snow-
ball) and several others are very effective.
Propagate by cuttings of ripe wood in the Fall, or by seeds,
sown one-eighth of an inch deep in the Spring, or by layering in
Summer, all in the open groimd.
■ } i. J r i f i ' o
VmGILIA LUTEA - '
The Virgilia is one of our most handsome flowering trees and
blooms during August and Sep-
tember, when very few trees or
shrubs are showing color, thus
being a most desirable tree for
the garden. It grows to the
height of about forty feet and
is of a graceful spreading habit.
With its deeply cut pinnate
leaves, when laden with its pan-
icles of pale lilac-colored flowers,
it makes a fine effect on the
lawn or in the shrubbery. It
thrives in any well-drained gar-
Virsilia lutea den soil.
Propagate by seeds which should be sown, in Spring, about
one-quarter of an inch deep in the open groimd. When one year
old, the seedlings should be transplanted into nursery rows. Set
them twelve inches apart.
[i7°l
CLIMBERS AND TWINERS
CHAPTER VIII
climbers and twiners
Ampelopsis
S is a genus of about twenty species of
duous ornamental climbers which grow
ny garden soil, all being rapid growers
ig in any position or aspect. They are
. lor training against the walls of buUd-
ings, and, when they take on their Autumn tints of bright red
and yellow, present a striking appearance.
Ampelopsis quinquefolia (the Virginia-creeper) and Am-
pelopsis tricuspidata (the Boston Ivy) are the most useful.
The Ampelopsis is easily propagated by seeds sown in Spring
one eighth of an inch deep in a cool frame, or by cuttings of ripe
wood placed in the open ground in sandy soil in September.
Aristolochia
A genus of woody twiners with irregular and grotesque
flowers, one species being a native of California. Aristolochia
sipho, commonly called The Dutchman's Pipe, is a very rapid
grower, sometimes making over twenty feet in a single season.
They like a warm sheltered situation and plenty of water at
the root during the growing season.
Propagate by cuttings, in September, placed in pots filled
with sandy leaf-mold, in a cool frame, and shaded from the sun
until rooted; when they are rooted, pot them in three-inch pots
and plant them out the following Spring.
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
BiGNONiA {Trumpet Vine)
The Bignonias are nearly all either climbers or twiners. They
are vigorous growers and have gorgeous trumpet or funnel-shai)ed
flowers, some of them possessing
flower-tubes six inches in length.
These handsome climbers are
excellent plants for covering
walls, growing over old stimips
of trees, forming screens or trel-
Uses, etc. They will grow in any
good garden soil, preferring how-
ever a sheltered situation. A
wall facing the east is adapted
for their full development.
This is another genus, which
the gardeners of California have
Bignonia Chercre. introduced from the greenhouses
of the East and from Europe, now giving splendid effects in our
favored State. Bignonia capreoiata (a native of the Southern
United States) is one of the hardiest and has orange-colored
flowers. This'species has a variety, with dark-red flowers, also
a very desirable climber. Bignonia Cherere is a fine species bear-
ing quantities'of brownish-orange flowers. Bignonia diversifolia
bears yellow and Bignonia floribunda purple flowers. Bignonia
Tweediana, one of the best of the genus, with pretty lance-
shaped leaves, has yeUow flowers and is an elegant climber of
rapid growth, Bignonia venusta bears glorious masses of blos-
soms and should be in every collection.
The Bignonia is propagated by cuttings placed in a cold frame
during August or September in soil composed of one-half sand,
one-quarter leaf-mold and one-quarter good loam, well mixed
together, or by seeds sown, in Spring, a quarter of an inch deep.
[17^1
CLIMBERS AND TWINERS
BOUGAINVILLEA
The Bougainvillea is justly classed among the most showy
of our climbers, and, when
planted beside a veranda or
when allowed to climb on a tall
tree or building gives gorgeous
eflEects.
This climber delights in a
warm sheltered situation and
good soil with a reasonable
amount of water during the
simimer months. There are sev-
eral varieties, all of which are
desirable, including Bougain-
villea speciosa, Bougainvillea
BougainvUlea. Saundersiana, Bougainvillea gla-
bra and Bougainvillea lateritia.
The Bougainvillea is easily increased by cuttings, put in a
frame in September or March and given a little heat.
Clematis
The Clematis is among the
most beautiful of our hardy
climbers. The large-flowering va-
rieties are unequaled for decorating
■ the porch or veranda pillars. The
small- flowered species, such as the
Clematis paniculata, should be
planted at the base of a tall tree
where they send their shoots often
to a height of fifty feet and form
great masses of white fragrant
blossoms.
The Clematis thrives in any
I1731
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
good garden soil but prefers a light sandy soil well enriched by
old manure and plenty of water during the growing season.
Should any signs of mildew appear, dust with flowers of sulphur
at once, so as to stop the mildew from spreading. All the
Clematis flower better if severely pruned each Fall or Winter
before growth commences.
Propagate the finer varieties by cuttings or by grafting on
common stock in Summer.
COBAEA SCANDENS
•
The Cobaea is a rampant-growing soft-wooded climber with
bell-shaped flowers, thriving well in any good soil but preferring
a sheltered, sunny situation.
Propagate by seeds sown, in February, one-eighth of an inch
deep in a hotbed, and potted off in three-inch pots. As soon as
the young plants have filled the pots with roots, gradually harden
them by placing the pots in a cold frame; in May, plant them
out where they are to remain.
DOLICHOS
The Dolichos is a free-growing ornamental twiner with pea-
shaped flowers and pretty light-green foUage, growing freely in
any soil and thriving either in the sun or in the shade.
Propagate by seeds sown either in the open ground in early
Spring or at any season imder glass. Cover the seeds to the depth
of one-sixteenth of an inch.
ECCREMOCARPUS
A genus of elegant hardy evergreen climbers with yellow or
orange-red flowers tubular shaped. The leaves are compoimd
with oval-shaped leaflets. They are excellent for covering fences,
walls, etc., growing freely in any soil.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in August or
September; shade them during sunshine imtil the yoimg roots
are formed, when they should be potted off into three-inch pots.
[174]
CLIMBERS AND TWINERS
Hedera Helix (Ivy)
Few climbing plants will be found more useful than the old-
fashioned Ivy as it grows in any soil and almost any aspect.
It is good for covering walls, railings or rustic houses, and makes
excellent bordering for walks or a covering for bare spots under
trees where few other plants will grow. Should the leaves get
dusty, it is a good plan to clip off all the leaves annually, about
the end of March or just before the Spring growth begins, and
in a few weeks the old leaves will be replaced by a new crop of
bright clean foliage.
Propagate by cuttings placed in the open groimd in October
or November ; in a few months they will be rooted and ready to
be planted m their permanent places.
Ipomcea
The Ipomcea is an extensive genus, having over four hundred
species of twining or creeping plants whose campanula or salver-
shaped blossoms are of all shades of purple, red, blue or white.
They are among the prettiest of plants for covering the limbs of
old trees, trellises, veranda pillars, etc. All of the species may
be easily raised from seeds which should be sown in early Spring,
one eighth of an inch deep in four-inch pots filled with good
loam mixed with about one-third sand; sow three seeds in each
pot and place the pots in a warm place under glass. When the
yoimg seedlings are about six inches high they should be tied to
small temporary stakes and gradually hardened by exp)osure to
the open air; after two weeks' exposure to the open they are
ready to be planted out.
Jasminum
The Jasminums are well-known plants and are very popular
on account of their elegant habit and sweet-scented flowers.
They make excellent covering for fences, trellises, arbors, etc..
and thrive in any good garden soil.
[175]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Jasminum nudiflorum is one of our earliest Spring-flowering
plants, often opening bright-yellow flowers as early as January.
Jasminum oflicmale, the fragrant common Jasmine, blooms con-
tinuously from early Summer until late in the Autumn.
Propagate by layers laid in, an inch deep, in ordinary soil in
June, or by cuttings of the ripe wood, in September, inserted one
inch deep in sandy soil in a cold frame or in the open ground;
select shoots not showing flower at the top.
Kennedya
The Kennedyas are rapid-growing hardy twiners, natives of
Australia; they like a warm sunny situation. They bear pea-
shaped flowers, reddish-brown or scarlet in color. Any good
garden soil will grow them well.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-quarter of an
inch deep in a warm greenhouse or hotbed; when they are large
enough to be handled, pot them singly in three or four-inch pots;
gradually harden them by exposure to the open air and plant
them out when they show signs of making fresh growth.
Lathyrus odokatus {Sweet-pea)
This general favorite is a na-
tive of the Mediterranean islands
and consequently is at home in
the climate of California. It
thrives well in any good garden
soil, but, in order to obtain the
best results the soil should be
trenched two spades in depth
and four inches of old manure
mixed with the soil.
In addition to its value as a
garden plant, the Sweet-pea
makes a very good window-box
Lathynu odoratus. . ,
plant, its fragrant many-colored
[176I
CLIMBERS AND TWINERS
flowers spreading a pleasant odor throughout the room when it is
thus grown.
In planting the Sweet-pea seeds, form with a hoe or shovel
a shallow furrow about two feet wide and three mches deep, in
the middle of which draw the seed-drill three inches deep. In
this seed-drill the seeds should be planted about three inches apart.
When the young plants are six inches high, place a row- of tree
limbs or a fence of wire netting alongside them so that they may
have something to chmb over. Also spread a mulch of manure
about the plants; this will keep the ground cool and preserve
the moisture. Where a succession of bloom is desired, the seeds
should be sown about three times a year. Seeds which are sown
during Winter or early Spring should have a covering of soil
one inch deep while those sown in Summer or early Fall should
be covered to the depth of from two to two and a half inches and
shaded with a light covering of straw or some other light material
until the seeds come through the surface.
LoNiCERA {Honeysuckle)
The Honeysuckle is an extensive genus, comprising over
eighty species of hardy decidu-
ous or evergreen shrubs or climb-
ers with tubular-shaped flowers,
many of them delightfully fra-
grant. They are well suited for
covering walls, arbors and trel-
lises or for mixing with shrubs
where they give charming natu-
ral effects, twining, as they do,
around the stems and forming a
carpet to the groimd under the
shrubs.
The fragrant- flowered decid-
uous English or common Wood-
[177I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
bine and the evergreen Japanese spyecies are among the best of
the genus.
Propagate by cuttings of the ripe wood inserted in the open
ground in the Fall.
Mandevilla suaveolens
The Mandevilla is one of our
most handsome climbers, its elegant
twining habit and its pure white
fragrant flowers making it very de-
sirable for training against walls or
trellises. It thrives in any good soil,
but should not be grown in cold ex-
posed situations.
Propagate by seeds sown one-
eighth of an inch deep, in heat in early
Spring; plant them singly in small
pots as soon as they are large enough
to be handled ; gradually harden them
and plant them out in early Summer.
Mandevilla suaveolens.
MaurandVa
The Maurandyas are very pretty climbers with small heart-
shaped leaves and funnel-shaped flowers. They are easily grown
if given a sheltered spot away from harsh winds.
Propagate by seeds sown, in March, one-sixteenth of an
inch deep, in a cool frame or greenhouse; when they have made
four leaves, transplant them into either pots or boxes; after
gradually exposing them to the open air to be hardened, plant
them where they are to remain.
[178I
CLIMBERS AND TWINERS
MXIEHLENBECKIA
This is a genus comprising about fifteen sj>ecies of hardy
shrubs, mostly natives of Australia and New Zealand. They are
of very easy culture, thriving in any fair garden soil and a sunny
situation.
Muehlenbeckia coraplexa is one of the best of our hardy
climbers, being excellent for growing over rocky ledges, old
stumps, etc., for hanging or drooping over the rims of vases or
for hanging over walls. Its habit is dense. On account of its
distinct form, the brownish color of its leaves and its heavy
spray-like branches it is very valuable for cutting.
This climber is propagated by cuttings placed in a cold frame
in September and shaded during sunshine until well rooted.
Muehlenbeckia complexa.
I179I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Passiflora
A large genus of highly interesting climbers of rapid growth,
mostly natives of tropical America. They are noted for their
elegant habit and gorgeous flowers, making grand effects when
planted at the base of an old Pine or Oak tree and allowed to
twine along the branches of the tree and to hang down in long
pendants laden with their gaily-colored oddly-shaped flowers.
Propagate by cuttings placed in light sandy soil in a cold
frame in September; pot them into three-inch pots and plant
them out in the early Spring.
SOLANUM
The Solanum Wendlandii is one of the best of the climbers,
no one of its color giving so good results when it has been put in
a suitable place, its lilac-blue flowers producing gorgeous effects
for several months of the year. It delights in a well-protected
sunny situation and a fairly good soil.
Solanum jasminoides (the conmion Potato Vine) is also
ver>'^ desirable. This species is much hardier than the former and
will grow well in almost any soil or situation, preferably however
at the base of an old tree; hanging from the branches it is very
effective.
The Solanum is propagated by cuttings which should be
placed in sandy soil in a warm frame in August.
Wistaria
This beautiful Spring-flowering climber is so well known as
hardly to require any description. The genus contains about five
[i8o]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
species. Wistaria speciosa is a native of North
America and blooms a month later than Wistaria
sinensis, a native of China, which is the species
most grown. Wistaria Japonica and Wistaria
multijuga (the former bearing white flowers and
the latter lilac flowers with purple wings) are
natives of Japan. These again have varieties
which bear double flowers.
The Wistaria deUghts in a light and rich soil,
and, if given this, will produce branches sometimes
a hundred feet in length on each side of the main
stem, giving gorgeous masses of bloom in the eariy
The Wistaria forns great bundles of small
growths which often become matted under the eaves of buildings
or about the stems of old trees. Where they grow freely, these
matted growths should, in Winter, or before growth commences
in early Spring, be carefully disentangled and all of the weaker
growths should be pnmed back to a strong spur or bud, the re-
maining branches being laid in and fastened by ties to the wall or
other support, not closer together, however, than twelve inches.
Propagation of the Wistaria is effected most easily by seeds
sown during early Spring, one-half of an inch deep, in a warm
frame or greenhouse, or by layering in June.
I1811
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER IX
bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants
Agapanthus
.The African lily is one of our favorite bulbous-rooted plants,
with IxLxuriant yet graceful foliage and great
umbels of bright blue or white flowers in clus-
ters of from twenty to thirty measuring over a
foot across. It makes a fine showing in the
flower-border or on the lawn. It thrives best
in deep rich loamy soil, well enriched with man-
ure, and can hardly receive too much water
during the growing season.
Propagate by offsets or by dividing the old
plants into single crowns and planting them in
March.
^ Amaryllis
The Amaryllis are among the most gorgeous of our bulbous
flowering plants. Some of the genus, such as Amaryllis Bella-
donna, have the flowering season o\'er before the leaves appear.
Their tall stems (large heads of fragrant and beautiful pink
flowers) make them great favorites for cutting and for fiUing
vases. They delight in soil of a light rich nature, in which
they should be planted about eight inches deep and left undis-
turbed for years, where they will ultimately establish themselves
and produce grand masses of bloom. During dry weather and
until they have perfected their foliage, they should be given an
abundance of water, after which they do not require so much,
and it may gradually be withdrawn altogether.
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
Vallota purpurea and Imantophyllum miniatum will be
found to do excellently if given a warm sheltered situation and a
rich loamy soU. Plant the Vallota bulbs six inches apart and the
Imantophyllums twelve inches apart, one-half of the bulb being
above ground.
Propagate by dividing the bulbs and planting them in March,
or by seeds collected as soon as ripe in the Fall and sown in a
warm, sheltered border or cold frame in early Spring; cover the
seeds to the depth of about a quarter of an inch.
Calochortus {Mariposa Lily)
Handsome native bulbous plants with showy flowers and
erect flower-stems. There are about twenty varieties, all of
which are very beautiful. They require a good strong loam of
considerable depth to grow well. Pasture fields are the native
homes of the Mariposa Lilies.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, in light loam, cover-
ing the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch, or by division
of the bulbs which should be taken up as soon as the leaves turn
yellow and the bulbs are in a dormant state. Keep the bulbs
in a cool dry position covered by light loam or sand to preyent
them shrinking, as leaving them all Winter in paper bags or in
dry sheds seems to dry them too much and to weaken their
growth the following year. Plant them immediately after the
first Fall rains, from six to twelve inches apart and from two to
three inches deep. Select a spot away from artificial irrigation.
On no account disturb the bulbs and they will give improved
flowers year by year.
Crocus
This well-known genus is among the earliest of our Spring
flowers, often opening its flower-scapes the first week in January,
It prefers a light, rich, loamy soil and a sheltered situation,
1 183]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
After they are done blooming and the leaves turn yellow,
the bulbs should be taken up.
Propagate by dividing the bulbs when they are in a dormant
state; keep them, in a cool dry place, covered with dry soil until
the next planting season in October or the early part of Novem-
ber; plant them about three inches deep.
The Crocus may also be propagated by seeds sown about a
quarter of an inch deep, as soon as ripe or in eariy Spring, in
light rich soil, and left in the seed-bed for two years when the
yoimg conns may be separated and transplanted.
Hyacinth
In the cultivation of this handsome bulbous plant, a light
rich soil should be provided, and firm, solid bulbs of good size
selected; soft spongy bulbs give weak stems and poor flowers.
Plant the bulbs about eight inches apart and three inches deep,
placing a little sand in the hole before planting. The latter end
of October or the first week in November will be foimd the best
time to plant. As soon as the flower-spikes are from six to eight
inches high they should be neatly staked to prevent the flowers
being broken by their own weight; should the weather continue
dry in Spring or while they are in bloom, they should be watered
freely as any dryness at the root will weaken the growth and
shorten their season of bloom. As soon as the foliage is ripe or
turned yellow in color, the bulbs should be taken up and the
foliage cleaned off; when they are thoroughly dry, they should
be packed in boxes filled with dry soil and laid away in a cool
dry place until the following season.
Propagate by dividing the bulbs, taking the offsets from the
old bulbs as soon as they are taken up; place the offsets in
separate boxes and plant them, in small beds or borders, two
inches deep in light rich soil. They flower the third year.
[184]
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
Ikis
The Iris belongs to a genus of over one hundred species of
hardy herbaceous plants with creeping or tuberous root-stocks.
The Iris is found naturally all over the Temper-
ate Zone, in America from Canada to California,
and in Europe from Russia to sunny Spain,
while the gorgeous Iris Kaempferi and Iris
tectonim come to us from Japan; others are
natives of Siberia, and quite a few are from
China.
The Iris delights in a deep rich clayey soil
preferably alongside the bed of a stream or
canal or on the banks of a pool or lake where
the moisture rises within two feet of the surface.
If these conditions are not available, a bed
should be prepared by trenching the soil two
feet deep and mixing the soil freely with old "^
decomposed manure.
Plant the bulbs or roots so that about one inch of soil covers
the crown, and give them water copiously during the growing
season.
Iris Germanica, Iris florentina, Iris susiana, and the dwarf
Iris pumila, besides many others, are well worthy of prominent
positions in our gardens and pleasure-grounds.
Propagate by division of the roots or bulbs in early Spring,
or by sowing the seeds in light sandy soil in either a cold frame
or a sheltered border as soon as the seeds are ripe. Cover the
seeds a quarter of an inch deep.
IxiA
This beautiful Spring-flowering bulb is most useful for giving
a fine effect in Spring and early Sununer from its elegant habit,
its graceful flower-stalks and its rich and varied colors, the
[1851
/
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
center of the flowers always differing in shades from the other
parts.
The genus contains about twenty-five species of easy culture
in any good garden soil.
In October or early in November plant the bulbs about six
inches deep ; as soon as the leaves turn yellow take up the bulbs
and store them in a cool dry place until the next planting season.
Propagation by offsets is the quickest method of increasing
the number of plants ; they may be secured in quantity after the
parent bulbs have ripened off; store them in a cool dry place
until the planting season ; plant the offsets in a sheltered position
about three inches apart for one season ; the second year they will
bloom and may be planted in their blooming quarters.
They may also be propagated by seeds which should be sown
in pans or boxes about September and placed in a cold frame;
cover the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch ; the second
year plant the young bulbs a few inches apart in a sheltered spot,
taking up the bulbs as soon as ripe and storing them until plant-
ing time. They will bloom the third year.
Kniphofia {Redhot Poker Plant)
This handsome stately herbaceous plant is a general favorite
on account of its striking color and adaptability to almost any
soil or position, doing well in poor soil although it prefers rich
loam. Even on our rocky dry hillsides it struggles along and
boldly sends up its large tufts of long narrow leaves and stately
flower-stalks covered with scarlet or yellow blossoms until late
in the season.
Propagate by dividing the crowns in early Spring, planting
them where wanted to flower, which they will do the succeeding
Summer and Fall. Cover the crowns to the depth of one inch.
[i86]
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
LiLiUM (LUy)
Lilies are matchless among hardy bulbs for beauty of form
and variety of color and also for the length of their blooming
season. They delight in a cool fresh soil and a sheltered semi-
shaded situation; grouped among tall shrubs they show to good
advantage. After the stems are well-formed and about one foot
high, give them a good top-dressing of well-decomposed manure
«
about three inches deep all over the surface of the ground, and
abundance of water until the flowering season is over when water
should be gradually withdrawn so as to encourage the ripening
of the bulbs.
They are increased by taking the small bulblets which form
about the old bulbs (as soon as the bulbs are ripe which is shown
by the leaves and stems turning yellow and dropping off) and
planting them half an inch deep in separate beds in Ught rich
soil, growing them on until they are large enough to bloom,
when they may be planted out in the beds or borders where
they are to flower. When the young bulblets are taken up they
should be transplanted into their new quarters without any delay,
as exposure to drying wind or being allowed to Ue any length
of time in a dry atmosphere (even if in a shed or shaded situa-
tion) has a weakening effect on their future growth.
With a good selection of the many gorgeous species, Lilies
may be had in bloom for several months. Among the earliest-
flowering kinds may be mentioned Lilium candidum (St. Joseph's
Lily) and our splendid natives LiUum Washingtonianum,
Lilium pardalinum and LiUum Humboldti; following them,
Lilium tigrinum, Lilium lancifolium and its varieties the splendid
Lilimn auratum and the tall and stately LiUum giganteum,
besides many others equally beautiful.
[187]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
MONTBRETIA
This hardy free-flowering bulbous plant is a native of South
Africa and grows to the height of about two and one-half feet.
It thrives well in any good garden soil and increases rapidly, its
roots spreading freely. It requires little attention beyond getting
a plentiful supply of water until the blooming season is over
when the water may be gradually withdrawn. It should be
taken iip and replanted about March in every third year. The
roots get so thickly matted together by that time that the groimd
becomes impoverished, the result being small and imperfect
flowers and fohage. The Montbretias make excellent plants for
carpeting in groups of young shrubs which still show bare ground
between the plants.
Propagate in early Spring by dividing the roots and planting
them twelve inches apart in bunches of from three to six bulbs
each. Cover them to the depth of half an inch.
Narcissus {DaffodU)
A genus of popular hardy Spring- flowering plants with hand-
some white or yello.w flowers. They are
excellent for fiUing beds or borders and
make fine effects when planted in appar-
ently natural groups in the lawn.
When planting them in the lawn,
avoid symmetrical lines or formal shapes
as far as possible, a good plan being to
take the bulbs in the hand and to scatter
them freely, planting them where they
fall. When planting in the grass, take
up a piece of the sod about three inches in
diameter and six inches deep; in the
bottom place about an inch of light rich
Narcissuf. soil, then plant the bulb, fill in another
liSS]
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
three inches of soil, and, on top of this, replace the sod which
should be root-trimmed to one inch thick, leaving the lawn level
and smooth as before digging.
When planting groups in the herbaceous or mixed border, if
possible give them a partially shaded situation, making the
groups of irregular outline and seeing that each group contains
one variety only.
The best soil for the DaflFodils is a deep rich brown loam
which has been freely manured the previous Spring, and from
which a crop of some annual flowers has been gathered. In
August, after clearing off the asters, stocks and other Summer-
flowering plants, spade the ground over to the depth of at least
one foot, leave the groimd open for two or three weeks, rake the
surface over and plant the Narcissus bulbs from four to six inches
deep and from eight to twelve inches apart.
As soon as the flowering season is over, and the foUage is
ripe, which will be shown by the leaves becoming yellow, the
bulbs should be dug up and stored away (after removing the
dry leaves) in boxes filled with dry soil and kept in a cool dry
cellar imtil September or October, when they should be replanted
where they are wanted for effect the following Spring, or, if the
space is not required, the bulbs may be left in the ground and will
give good results the following season.
The usual mode of propagation is by offsets which should be
separated from the parent bulbs during the dormant season and
planted out separately for a year in order that they may grow
large enough for flowering. They may also be raised from seeds
but the process is a slow one. The seeds should be sown as soon
as ripe a quarter of an inch deep in light loamy soil, in pans or
boxes; the second year plant out the yoimg bulblets about two
inches apart and a quarter of an inch deep in a prepared border.
The third year plant them in their flowering quarters as before
directed.
[189]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Narcissus Jonothlla (Jonquil)
Jonquils are now classed under the head of Narcissus, thriv-
ing under the same treatment as the daffodils. Although not
so large-growing as some of the daflFodils, they are much admired
for their delicate fragrance and the bright golden color of their
long narrow tubular necks and their saucer-shaped crowns.
They should be planted about the middle of November.
PoLiANTHES TuBEROSA (Tuberosc)
This beautiful Autunm-blooming tuberous-rooted plant is
a native of our sister republic, Mexico, and thrives well in our
warmer valleys and in sheltered situations in the coast counties.
It prefers a sandy loam generously enriched, which should be
well-cultivated by the soil being stirred and the surface hoed
after each watering. Plant the tubers twelve inches apart, in
early Spring, about one inch of soil covering the bulbs. They
are much used in planting in clumps in flower-borders and shrub-
beries.
Propagate in Winter by dividing the bulbs.
Ranunculus Asiaticus
There are two forms of this lovely Spring- flowering Ranim-
culus, viz., the Persian and the Turban. The Persian has a com-
pact symmetrical habit, the Turban being more spreading and
larger every way ; the flowers of both sections are very beautiful
and they both make excellent bedders. Both have numerous
varieties and range in color from white, through all shades of
browns and yellows, to scarlet, or they are speckled and striped
most charmingly.
They thrive best in a rich light soil well mixed with old cow-
manure ; they should be carefully watered during dry weather —
1 190]
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
not overwatered, however, as they abhor stagnant moisture, too
much water causing their foliage to become yellow and the
flowers to become weak and short-lived.
As soon as the flowering season is over and the leaves are
ripe, take the roots up, remove the foliage, dry the Uttle bulblets
and store them away in boxes filled with dry soil in a cool cellar
until planting time arrives which should be in November. In
planting, set them out about six inches apart and two inches
deep, care being taken to plant them with their crowns uppermost.
Propagate by dividing the claw-like tubers as soon as ripe,
which is generally early in June. They flower the second year.
RiCHARDiA Ethiopica (Colla Lily)
This genus comprises five species of hardy South African
Aroideae, all having handsome foliage and tall-growing elegant
flower-spathes. They are of easy cultivation if given plenty of
moisture; a light sandy soil, if well manured, suits them very
well, but they also seem to thrive in heavy muck or loam if
given plenty of water, or if partially submerged and treated as
a semi-aquatic.
Propagate by offsets or by dividing the roots, in Winter or
early Spring ; plant about one foot apart, covering the tops one or
two inches deep.
SciLLA {Wood Hyacinth)
The Scillas are among the most beautiful of our hardy Spring-
flowering plants. Some of the species, being natives of Spain
and Portugal, are specially adapted for growing here in Cali-
fornia. They thrive well in any good garden soil, although soil
of a light sandy loam seems to suit them best. In September,
plant them six inches deep where wanted to bloom, selecting
[191]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
any out-of-the-way spot under the shade of trees, even the shade
of the heaviest Pines, where few other plants will thrive. There
are several fine spedes including many colors.
Scilla campanulata and its variously-colored varieties make
charming and effective groups in flower-borders and shrubberies.
Propagate in the dormant season by separating the offsets
from the parent bulbs and growing them on in a separate bed or
border for one year. The following season they should be ready
to be planted where they are to bloom.
TiGRIDIA
Few flowers are more gorgeously colored or more beautiful
than this hardy vigorous-growing bulbous plant. It thrives well
in any good soil and a warm sheltered situation. Plant the bulbs
about three inches deep and six inches apart, in September or
October.
Propagate either by seeds sown in early Spring, covering the
seeds about a quarter of an inch deep, or by offsets taken from
the old bulbs during the dormant season.
Tulips
These well-known hardy Spring-flowering bulbs are very
popular for the decoration of our gardens, and, where a good col-
lection is grown, may be had in bloom from February to Jime.
They thrive well in any good light loam, and, in October or early
in November, should be planted from three to four inches deep
where they are to bloom; plant them, with a trowel, about eight
inches apart.
After they have finished blooming, and their leaves become
brown, the bulbs should be taken up from the soil and laid singly
in a cool shaded airy shed until thoroughly ripened, when "they
should be stored in shallow boxes and placed in an airy dark dry
cellar until the planting season.
[192]
BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS
In planting, care should be taken to plant in the same bed
those varieties which bloom eariy, the same rule being followed
with those which bloom later, for, if the late-blooming varieties
were planted among those which flower in February or March,
the result would be disappointing as the early species would be
out of flower and their foliage would be brown before the late-
blooming species began to show color.
Propagate by offsets taken from the parent bulbs when they
are lifted ; these offsets should be grown by themselves imtil large
enough for flowering.
[193]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER X
PALMS .
Areca SAPIDA
very ornamental genus of Palm is a native of
:w Zealand and is not hardy where the tem-
rature falls below twenty-eight degrees Fahren-
it. From Santa Barbara south it forms grand
3irticimens,and also In some favored localities farther
north if planted under the shade of other trees and away from
cold draughts. It thrives best in a light sandy soil well enriched
with old well-decomposed manure.
Propagate by seeds sown, in February or March, one inch
deep in a hotbed or in a warm greenhouse. When the seedlings
are about four inches high, plant them in three-inch pots and give
them more room as growth advances.
CHAM.EROPS
The Chamserops are among the hardiest of our fan Palms
while they are also free-growing and easily transplanted. Cha-
maerops humilis, which is a native of the Mediterranean regions,
is of a dwarf habit; Chamserops excelsa, which is from China,
is of a more stately habit, sometimes attaining a height of thirty
feet and growing handsome crowns of deeply cut fan-shaped
leaves.
They delight in plenty of water and a well-drained soil.
Propagate by seeds sown one inch deep, in heat, in early
Spring; when they are four inches high, pot them in three-inch
pots; when thej' are one year old, plant them in the open ground
in nursery rows. They may also be propagated by suckers taken
from the base of old plants in early Spring.
[194]
Coco* plumosa as Sidewalk Tree.
PALMS
Cocos
Cocos australis, the hardiest of the genus, is worthy of more
attention from planters than it has received in the past and should
do well in all of our valley counties. Cocos plumosa, a native of
Southern Brazil, does surprisingly well in Southern California
from Santa Barbara south, where avenues of them may be seen.
They frequently attain a height of forty feet and make grand
objects of stately beauty.
Propagate by seeds planted, in March, one inch deep in a
warm greenhouse and grown on in pots until four feet high when
they may be planted out of doors in a situation protected from
frosts and harsh winds, until large enough to be planted in their
permanent quarters.
Erythea
The Erytheas are natives of this coast and perfectly hardy
in all the valley and coast counties, so grow well in any garden
soil with ordinary treatment.
Erythea armata, commonly called the Blue Palm, is of slow
growth and very distinct in habit and in the color of its leaves
which are of a bluish grey and deeply cut. Erythea edulis is a
much quicker grower, having larger leaves of deep green.
Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one inch deep in a warm
greenhouse or in a mild hotbed and grown in pots for at least one
year when they may be planted in the nursery.
JUBiEA
Jubaea spectabilis or Wine Palm of Chile is one of our hardiest
palms, growing well even in San Francisco. It has much the
same habit as the Date Palm family but differs from them in its
closer habit and heavier foliage, being an excellent palm for small
gardens as it is of slow growth and formal habit and is not par-
ticular as to soil.
[^97]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one inch deep in
a hotbed or warm greenhouse; give pot room as required.
LiVISTONIA
A genus of palms comprising several species all bearing hand-
some fan-shaped leaves.
Livistonia australis is hardy as far north as San Francisco.
Livistonia Chinensis, not being so hardy, should not be planted
out of doors north of Santa Barbara unless well-sheltered and
partially shaded.
Propagate by seeds sown in heat one inch deep, in early
Spring. When the seedlings are about four inches high, plant
them in Hght rich soil in three-inch pots. Transplant them into
larger pots as the young plants require the space.
Phoenix Canarlensls.
[198]
PALMS
Phgenix
The Phoenix Canariensis is without doubt the most hardy and
most popular of the genus, growing well in any garden soil and
standing considerable exposure to wind. Phoenix reclinata is
also very popular. It is elegant in habit but not so vigorous a
grower as the preceding, requiring a sheltered situation away
from harsh winds and frost. There are several other species such
as Phoenix rubicola, Phoenix sylvestris, Phoenix Zeylanica, Phoenix
dactylifera, etc., all fairly hardy and easily grown.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Springy one inch deep in a
hotbed or in a warm greenhouse. Plant them in three-inch pots
when the seedlings are about four inches high, and give them more
room as growth advances.
Rhapis
The Cane Palm of Japan is an elegant dwarf-growing palm
with cane-like stems and crowns of palmate leaves, admirable
for pot culture and for places in rooms or verandas. If planted
out of doors it should be given a shaded sheltered situation free
from draughts or cold winds. There are several species and var-
ieties of this most interesting palm all worthy of a place in any
collection.
Propagation is effected by division of the roots in early Spring.
Sabal Palmetto
The Cabbage Palm of Florida is another of the fan palms
which do well in our gardens and should be found in every good
collection. It is hardy, standing considerable exposure and is
not particular as to soil.
There are several species belonging to the genus such as Sabal
Blackbumiana, Sabal Mexicana, Sabal umbraculifera, etc.
[199]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Propagate by sowing the seeds one inch deep, in early Spring,
in a warm greenhouse; pot them when four inches high, and give
them more room both at top and root as required.
Seaforthia Elegans
The Seaforthia is one of the most elegant and free-growing
of the palm family. From Santa Barbara south it is perfectly
hardy, ripening its seeds in the open air.
Propagate by seeds sown one-half inch deep in Spring, the
seeds starting freely and growing rapidly m, a warm greenhouse
or hotbed; transplant them into three-inch pots when they are
from four to six inches high and give them more pot room as
required.
Washingtonia
The well-known California Fan Palm is without doubt the
stateliest of all our palms whether native or introduced. It
delights in a good soil, deep and well drained, and a plentiful
supply of water at the root during the growing season.
Washingtonia filifera is not recommended for cold exposed
situations in San Francisco, the Summer being too cold for its
making vigorous growth, but south of San Francisco and in the
interior counties as far north as Butte county it is perfectly at
home and grows vigorously. Washingtonia Sonorae is much more
hardy, growing well even in San Francisco.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-half inch deep
under glass and kept in pots until one year old; they may then
be planted in the nursery and left there until large enough to be
planted in their permanent quarters.
[ 200]
Natural Croup of Washingtoniai (California Fan Palmt).
FERNS
CHAPTER XI
FERNS
[N THE formation of a Fernery, a location partially-
shaded and yet not exposed to draughts or harsh
winds should be selected.
A situation facing East or a Northerly slope
suits the great majority of hardy Ferns, and, as
they are generally found as imdergrowth in woods or rocky
ledges, on the banks of streams or creeks, or in shady spots in
marshy ground, these conditions should be imitated as closely as
possible, a rocky dell shaded with deciduous trees being an ideal
spot in which to establish a Fernery.
Of course many of the hardier, stronger growers do fairly
well under practically any tree or in partial shade of almost
any kind, but a situation, such as has been described, will be
found from results to be very much the best.
The decision as to the selection of the site may be influenced
by whether the intention is to plant the Ferns on the ordinary
ground level or to have a Rock Fernery.
If the Ferns are to be planted without introducing rocks or
stumps, all that is necessary is to see that the soil is of the proper
character. It should be light, rich and porous, so that water will
pass through it freely. If the natural soil is heavy loam or of
a clayey nature, it should either be removed to the depth of one
foot, and a foot of light soil filled in, or the foot of light soil
should be spread over the surface of the original ground.
The very best soil for growing Ferns is composed of one-
quarter peat, one-quarter sandy loam, one-quarter sharp sand
and one-quarter leaf-mold, all having been thoroughly mixed
together a month before being used.
1 203]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Should a Rockery effect be desired in conjunction with the
Fernery, place the rocks (which should be if possible of a porous
nature) on top of the soil, allowing a layer of soil of at least
one-half of an inch to lie between each rock; avoid building
the so-called pockets into the Rockery as this invariably leads to
sour soil, and sour soil means sickly plants.
The comfort of the plants should be the first consideration
and should not be sacrificed to the appearance of the rockwork.
When the rockwork is finished, the plants should be got
together and a system of planting laid out. The larger Ferns,
including the Tree Ferns, should first be arranged and planted;
afterwards those of medium growth should be placed in their
positions, and then the smaller and dwarf kinds.
The best Tree Ferns for the beginner to experiment with are
the Dicksbnia antarctica and the Alsophila australis as they
are both vigorous growers and are among the noblest and most
beautiful of any. When planting, set them out in group-form
irregularly and from five to ten feet apart; under and among
them plant such kinds as Woodwardia, the stronger growing
Asplenium, Polystichum, Lastraea, Polypodium, Osmunda, Blech-
num brasiliense, Pteris tremula, and also our native Sword Fern.
Then, to finish the group, plant, near the walk, the smaller
and dwarf species such as the Five-finger F gm, the peer Fern ,
Blechnum Spicant, Scolopendrium, Adiantmn Capillus veneris,
Cystopteris fragilis, Woodsia, etc.
The most of the foregoing are evergreen, deUghting m per-
petual moisture, and should be given every attention in the way
of watering, their roots never being allowed to get the least dry.
During dry weather they should be sprinkled at least once a day
overhead, water that is not too cold being used; water drawn
direct from city mains or from artesian wells is much too cold
for use in sprinkling or watering ferns or other dehcately f oliaged
plants. Especially should care be taken in watering the smaller
kinds which should always be watered with the watering-pot,
[204]
Group of Tree Ferns.
FERNS
the water having been aerated and warmed by contact with the
atmosphere before being used.
The season for planting is from November until growth com-
mences, which is generally in February. When planting, see
that the soil is of the nature recommended; plant moderately
firm and not too deep.
Ferns grown in pots require repotting more or less frequently.
This must be very carefully done, it being remembered that these
plants make their most luxuriant growth after they have covered
the inside of the pots with a network of their roots. The repot-
ting may be done at any season, but early Spring, just before
growth commences, is regarded as the best season for the work.
In repotting, see that the pots are clean and dry; should new pots
be used, they must be put in water and allowed to remain there a
sufficiently long time to become thoroughly soaked; they should
then be well dried before being used. New pots absorb great
quantities of water, and, unless they are well soaked before being
used, it often happens that the first two or three waterings,
instead of watering the roots of the plant, serve to only soak the
pot, while the balls of earth, which the pots contain, become so
dry that it is difficidt to again get them moistened. When pre-
paring pots, see that the proper amount of drainage is put in.
First place one piece of broken potsherd over the hole in the
bottom of the pot, then fill the pot about one-fifth of its depth
with clean, broken potsherds; cover this drainage material with
moss to keep the soil from mixing with it. The soil should con-
sist of two parts sandy fibrous loam, one part of leaf-mold and
one part of peat with enough coarse sharp sand to keep the whole
open and porous.
[207]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER XII
BAMBOOS AND GRASSES
HE Bamboo is a genera! favorite with all lovers of
beauty of form in plant life. It is an evergreen
indigenous plant belonging to the grass family.
The Bamboo delights in a li^t, rich soil, a well-
sheltered situation and plenty of water at the
roots during the growing season, but stagnant water is fatal
to it. The bank of a perennial stream and the side of a sheltered
lake or pool, where the crowns are planted a foot or two above the
water level, are ideal spots for the growing of the Bamboo, while
a good mulching of well-rotted manure once a year encourages
the plants to send up strong and graceful stems. The more shel-
tered they are from wind the better; especially must they be
protected from our strong Summer west winds. A background
of our native Pinus insignis or any deep-green tree or shrub, shows
off the Bamboo to very good advantage, or, if a more graceful
combination is desired, the Bamboo can be mixed with the Birch,
and the effect wiD be most pleasing, especially if the golden-
stemmed Bambusa aurea is used and the group is a large one.
In planting the Bamboo in groups, it is inadvisable to plant
the strong rampant growers, such as Anmdinaria M£tak€, etc.,
along with the more flexible Phyllostachys henonis or any of
the non-suckermg species, as the spreading rhizomes of the
strong growers will run into the roots of the more delicate kinds,
rob them of their required sustenance and eventually starve
them to death.
For single specimens on the lawn in sheltered nooks, the
Arundinaria falcata is one of the most graceful; it grows to the
[208]
BAMBOOS AND GRASSES
height of about twenty feet, each stem droopmg gracefully from
the center and forming a very pleasing effect.
The Bambusa family is divided into several sections. The
Anmdinaria has a straight round stem which the branches nearly
encircle. These appear simultaneously along the whole length
of the stem, and at each joint, the sheaths of the young branches
being carried until late in the season, this giving a rather unkempt
appearance to the plant; Anmdinaria Simonii and Arundinaria
Japonica seem to carry them much longer than the other species.
The Phyllostachys, on the contrary, begin to open their
branches at the lower end of the stem and gradually develop
them upwards. The Phyllostachys also, instead of having a per-
fectly round stem, have a double furrow along the stem, this
being caused by the pressure of the branches against the stem
while in a soft state.
Propagate by division of the roots and by cuttings. The best
time to propagate the Bamboo by division of the roots, which is
a very simple process, is in the end of March. The plants should
be taken up and divided into small clumps of two or three stems
each with their jointed roots attached (there being left as much
earth aroimd the roots as possible) and planted about two feet
apart, in good, fresh, light loamy soil. They should be given a
good watering and a mulching with half-rotted manure. They
may be planted at once where they are to remain.
Propagation by cuttings is effected by taking up the under-
ground stems, or rhizomes as they are called, in March or April,
cutting them into lengths of from six to eight inches, plantmg
them in light sandy loam, about four inches deep, and givmg them
water as required. See that only roots of the previous year's
growth are used as all older rhizomes will be failures, only the
yoimg rhizomes being reproductive.
Among the species which thrive well and are perfectly hardy
may be mentioned the Arundinaria f alcata, Arundinaria Hindsia,
Arundinaria Simonii, Anmdinaria Japonica, Phyllostachys aurea,
[211]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Phyllostachys henonis, Phyllostachys nigra, Bambusa marmorea,
Bambusa quadrangularis and Bambusa palmata while many
others are worthy of a choice place in our gardens.
Groups of Mixed Grasses
Very pretty combinations can be made by planting mixed
grasses; for instance, by planting one or more of the Bamboos in
the center of the group, with a line of the stately Arundo Donax
and Arundo conspicua alternately around the Bamboos, and,
in front of and around the Anmdo plants, a line of the Pampas
Grasses, then, in front of and around the Pampas Grasses, a row
of Eulalia Japonica and its varieties intermixed perhaps with
Erianthus Ravennae, finishing the group with Orchard Grasses
and Feather-Grass (Stipa pennata).
Other and smaller groups can be planted, leaving out the
stronger growing, or handsome groups can be formed, leaving
out the dwarf growers, or again, a carpet can be made of the
dwarf forms, planting the taller growers a few feet apart and
allowing the character of the smaller species to be seen between
the stems of the Bamboos or Arundos.
Pampas Grass
This fine plant is so well known that it requires no descrip-
tion, for at least one or two plants are to be found in every gar-
den of any pretension, and yet it is worthy of better treatment
than it often receives. It should be given a deep good soil well-
enriched with manure, a sheltered situation and plenty of water
during the Summer months; imder these conditions the reward
will be a great mass of graceful foUage and a splendid group of
noble plumes in the early Fall.
Propagate by dividing the roots in February or March.
[212]
BAMBOOS AND GRASSES
Several garden varieties have been raised, some with pink
plumes, which are very effective.
Arundo
Tall perennial bamboo-like grasses growing, in good soil and
suitable situation, to the height of twenty-five feet, the stems
being upright in habit with broad leaves which droop hand-
somely. All of the species are highly ornamental either when
planted as single specimens on the lawn or when grouped in
masses with bamboos or with other ornamental grasses.
The Arundo delights in a light rich soil, a sheltered situation
and plenty of water at the roots during the growing season.
Anmdo Donax and its variegated variety and Arundo conspicua
will be foimd the most useful of the genus.
Propagation is effected by division of the roots in early Spring.
EULALIA JaPONICA
This is one of the most handsome of the grass family and
grows to the height of from four to six feet, topped with a feathery
plume which is very ornamental.
It forms an excellent border plant and is also well-suited for
grouping with other grasses such as the Pampas grass or the tall
Anmdo Donax.
It is easily increased by division of the roots in Spring.
There are several varieties of the EulaUa, some of them with
striped cream-colored bands running through the middle of the
leaves, and others with bars of yellow running crosswise.
[215]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER XIII
SUCCULENTS
1HE Succulents include many very handsome and
interesting plants, extremely varied in their char-
acter, most of them having thick fleshy leaves
or stems. Many are useful for planting in dry
sandy or rocky banks, and for covering, with gay
colors and interesting foliage, poor spots of dry soil which are
out of reach of water or too barren to sustain any other class of
plant. Among the large number which are perfectly hardy and
very ornamental are many of the Cactus, Agave and the large
family of Mesembryanthemum and Portulaca, also the gorgeous
free-flowering Crassula, etc.
Collections of Succulents should be planted in the dryest and
best-sheltered portions of the garden. They should be watered
very sparingly during only very dry weather, and even then only
when the plants show signs of flagging or wilting. The soil best
suited for most of them is a dry, rocky, well-drained, loose, light
loam such as is used in rockeries, for growing in which most of
the Succulents are admirably adapted.
Agave (Cenlury-Plant)
This common inhabitant of our gardens is one of the most
stately and characteristic of our California garden landscape
plants, its massive fleshy foliage, when full-grown, making a fine
effect in the sub-tropical gardens, and being excellent for large
vase-work in front of buildings or the decoration of terrace walks,
etc. It is a very slow grower, not attaining its full growth until
fifteen or twenty years old, when (and not until then) it sends
up its tall column-like flower-scape to the height of from thirty-
[216I
SUCCULENTS
five to forty feet, or more, with a diameter of stem of over six
inches at the base. The flower-scape makes a growth of six
inches every twenty-four hours, drawing its sustenance seemingly
from the thick large fleshy leaves. As the flower-stalk grows
in height, the leaves gradually become thin and flabby until the
flower-scape attains its full height, when the leaves are com-
pletely drained of all sap and flesh and become shriveled, Ufeless
pieces of fibre. After perfecting the flower, and ripening its seeds,
the whole plant dies to the ground and is succeeded by a colony
of suckers which form about the roots of the old plant. These
should be taken up late in the Fall and planted in nursery rows
about a foot or eighteen inches apart, and should be grown on
until large enough to be planted out in permanent quarters
There is quite a large number of interesting species belonging to
this genus, some of them with variegated leaves and others with
rosette-like bunches of leaves and of dwarf habit.
ALOES
These interesting plants are mostly natives of the Cape of
Good Hope, some of them becom-
ing arborescent and branched, and
growing to the height of sixty feet.
They delight in a loose rocky soil
and a warm sunny situation, and
require little artificial irrigation.
They are mostly of very slow
growth although Aloe ciliaris makes
several feet of growth in a season.
Most of them bear red or yellow
flowers in stiff spikes, which, com-
bined with their rugged grotesque
habit, make them excellent for
planting in dry rockeries, etc.
Aloe vera.
[219]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Propagate in early Spring by seeds, suckers or cuttings;
cover the seeds to a depth of one-quarter of an inch.
Cactus
This most interesting genus contains many hardy species,
and collections should be seen in our gardens more commonly
than they are. Most of them are of easy culture, provided they
are not excessively watered or planted in a too adhesive soil.
They all prefer a warm dry sunny situation and a Ught sandy
soil well drained; the soil should also contain a small percentage
of lime; mixing a quantity of lime-rubbish with the soil not
only gives the soil the necessary amount of lime but also serves
as a drainage medium.
The Cereus type contains many of the most gorgeously-col-
ored and largest-sized flowers of the genus.
The Echinocactus, with its prickly oval or round-shaped
ribbed grotesque form makes excellent specimens for the rockery
or desert garden.
The Mammillarias with their beautiful forms, their rosy, yel-
low or white flowers and their delicate designs are indispensable
in all collections.
The Opuntia, or Indian Fig, or Prickly Pear, is the most
common and also the easiest to grow of all the Cactus family.
It is well known throughout the State both as an ornamental and
a hedge plant for which purpose it is exceedingly useful, as no
animal, however hardy, will attempt to break through it on
account of the strong sharp spines which the plant sends out in
all directions.
The Phyllocactus is known by its flat leaves, its long calyx
tubes and large gorgeously-colored or white flowers.
Several of the genus are natives of CaUfomia, among which
may be mentioned Mammillaria Goodrichii, Mammillaria Gra-
hamiana, Echinocactus viridescens, Echinocactus polycephalus,
[220]
SUCCULENTS
Cereus Emoryii, Cereus giganteus, Opiintia littoralis, Opiintia
ficus indica, Opuritia prolifera, etc.
The Cactus is propagated most commonly by cuttings late
in Spring. The cuttings should be removed with a sharp knife,
and laid in a dry place until bleeding stops and the woimds are
dried. They should then be inserted in sand imtil they emit roots
when they may be planted in their permanent places.
Cotyledon (Echeveria)
A genus of succulent herbs or shrubs, comprising about sixty
species most of them natives of California, Mexico and Southern
Africa. They are useful in formal bedding,
and for rockwork where little or no arti-
ficial irrigation is given. A very mteresting
and effective rockwork is that planted with
the different kinds of Cotyledons, Semper-
vivums, Mesembryanthemums, Sedums,
Crassulas, etc., and, as these all grow and
bloom profusely without artificial water-
ing, many waste spots, which otherwise
might be left to weeds and Utter, can thus
be made attractive.
The Cotyledons are very easily propa-
gated by cuttings made from the stems in
September. Strip them of leaves for about Echeveria.
two inches, and, after cutting the ends with a sharp knife, insert
them in sandy soil in a simny situation, giving them very Uttle
water imtil they have formed roots which will be in two or three
weeks. They may also be propagated by leaf cuttings, by simply
parting the individual full-grown leaves from the stem, care
being taken when parting them that the dormant bud at the axil
of each leaf accompanies it. Insert them in sandy soil, about one-
quarter of an inch deep, and give them a little water for two weeks
[221]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
or until they have formed roots. If the cuttings are put in in
September or early in October, they will be ready for setting out
the following Spring.
Crassula
This beautiful succulent from Table Moimtain is one of the
best plants for planting on rocky hillsides or ledges as it grows
freely without care or watering if given
a handful of soil in which to start.
Plant the young plants early in Feb-
ruary and give them a little water to
settle the soil about the roots; they
afterwards will take care of themselves.
When planted on a sunny slope
(preferably facing the East) in loose,
well-drained soil, with a backgroimd
of low-growing, dark foliage, such as
dwarf Pine, Cypress or Jimiper, it is
very effective as it also is in the rockery
among other succulents, such as the
large-leaved Echeverias and Sedums
or the smaller Mesembryanthemum.
There are many species of this interesting genus, including
Crassula arborescens which grows to the height of three feet and
has rose-colored flowers, and Crassula coccinea, the best known
of the species, bearing scarlet flowers of a most dazzling hue
which entirely cover the plant. Others bearing white flowers
are also very pretty.
Propagate by cuttings, placed in sandy loam in a cold frame,
in September; give them just enough water to keep the leaves
from wilting.
Crassula coccinea.
[ 222 ]
SUCCULENTS
Meseubryanthemum
A genus of over three hundred species, mostly succulent per-
ennials or annuals which make excellent plants for covering dry
banks or borders, and, where
water is scarce, and where they
are not likely to be trampled
over, a good substitute for grass,
many species being of a creeping
spreading habit, hugging the
ground closely and forming a
carpet of rich green. Mesembry-
anthenium spectabile and Me-
sembryanthemum versicolor are
chiefly grown for the blaze of
color they give during sunshine.
Mesembryanthemum jequilater-
ale, Mesembryanthemum auS- MMembryanthemum specUbile.
trails, etc., are mostly used for covering rocky banks, sand flats,
and slopes, etc.
The Mesembryanthemum is not used so freely as it ought to be.
Many waste pieces of ground, dry shifting steep slopes, railroad
embankments, etc., now of a neglected, unkempt appearance,
could be planted with any of the stronger-growing, thick-leaved
species of this genus which, in addition to making a covering for
the ground, would hold the slopes or embankments from sliding
or from being moved by the elements. Mesembryanthemum
australis (white-flowered) is the best for this purpose as it is a
hardy, strong grower and a deep rooter, forming a dense, thick
carpet of heavy stems difficult to move or wash out of position.
Propagate by inserting cuttings, in Spring, about six inches
^art, where they are to bloom, or where wanted, first preparing
the ground by cultivating (either by plowing or spading) and
raking it over to make it smooth on the surface, breaking any
[223]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
lumps which may be left, so that, in planting, the dibble may be
worked easily and quickly.
Sedum
Sedum is a genus of over one himdred species most of them
with fleshy leaves and yellow, white or pink flowers, although one
or two, such as Sedum
sempervivum, have scarlet
flowers. Sedums are of
very easy culture, prefer-
ring a light sandy soil and
a sunny situation and being
exceedingly useful for cov-
ering dry banks and rocky
ridges away from the hose
or in the thinnest soils.
They are also effective for window-boxes or for carpet-bedding.
Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy soil in a sunny shel-
tered situation in Spring, or by seeds sown in February. Cover
the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch. When the seed-
lings are an inch or two high, prick them off, two inches apart,
in pots or boxes, planting them in their permanent places in May.
Sedum.
Sempervivum (Hotiseleek)
A genus comprising fifty or sixty species, natives of Madeira,
Asia Minor, Abyssinia and the Western Himalayas, bearing
white, pink, yellow or purpUsh flowers and thick fleshy leaves,
useful in carpet-bedding and for small rockwork.
Propagate by offsets taken from the parent plant in early
Spring and planted in any sunny situation, in light sandy soil,
about two inches apart.
[224]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
CHAPTER XIV
herbaceous and beddmo plants
Acanthus
HE Acanthus is a group of stately ornamental
plants of vigorous growth and handsome foliage.
To grow well, they require rich, deep soil well-
fertilized with old manure, and plenty of water
during the Simmier naonths. They show their
character best when grown in single tufts, at the bend of a walk,
on a bed of turf and in a sheltered, half-shaded situation. Acan-
thus mollis latifolius. Acanthus niger. Acanthus spinosus and sev-
eral other species are all very desirable for giving tropical effects
in Summer or Wmter.
Propagate by dividmg the roots or by seeds sown in Spring,
imder glass in gentle heat, covering the seeds to the depth of an
eighth of an inch. Pot the young seedlings singly when they are
an inch or two high, and plant them out of doors when they are
three or four inches high.
ACROCLINIUM
A small genus of hardy annuals, bearing everlasting flowers
of many shades of rose and white. They are very easily grown in
any garden soil.
Sow the seeds out of doors in April, in patches where they are
to bloom, covering the seeds to the depth of about one-eighth of
an inch; when the young seedlings are two or three inches high,
thin them to six inches apart and mulch the surface with one-half
inch of old well-decomposed manure, giving water when necessary.
[225]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
This well-known Summer-flowering plant is a general favorite
on account of its pretty blue flow-
ers and long-continued season of
profuse blooming. A good light
loam well-enriched with old manure
will grow it well. Plant the dwarf
varieties six inches apart, and the
tall species about fifteen inches
apart.
Propagate by cuttings in Sep-
tember, in a cold frame or green-
house; in Winter protect them from
frosts; plant them out of doors as
soon as the danger from cold
Agerahim. weather is over.
Agkostemma
Hardy evergreen perennials and annuals with lance-shaped
leaves and star-shaped flowers. They are of easy culture, grow-
ing freely in any soil and (being mostly natives of Southern
Europ>e) requiring little water. They are also well adapted for
ornamenting dry banks if planted after the first rains in Autumn.
Seeds of the annual species should be sown in August in a cold
frame or in a sheltered border; barely cover the seeds with finely
sifted sandy soil; plant them out in October and they will begin
flowering in April. The perennial species, such as Agrostemma
coronaria, are increased by division of the roots, the early Winter
being the best season for their division.
Althaea rosea (Hollyhock)
The Hollyhock is one of our old favorite garden plants,
indispensable for producing bold striking color effects in our
[226]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
flower-borders and shrubberies. It delights in a rich light soil
and an open sunny situation.
Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, in September or early
in October, either in an open sheltered spot out of doors or in
a cold frame, being covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch.
As soon as the seedlings are large enough to be handled, prick
them out about three inches apart in boxes, or singly in three-
inch pots, in hght rich soil composed of one-quarter very old
manure, one-half good surface loam and one-quarter leaf-mold
with enough sand to keep the soil open, all well-mixed together
by having been turned over several times. Plant them out,
where they are to bloom, in February or early in March, in
specially prepared, well-cultivated soil enriched with well-
decayed manure, the ground having been dug two feet deep and
the manure mixed freely with the soil. When the flower-spikes
appear, mulch the ground about the roots with a heavy dressing
of half-rotten manure and support the flower-stalk by a good
stiff stake eight feet long by two inches square tapering to one
inch square at the top, the stake being sharpened and driven two
feet into the ground. The roots should be given a fair supply of
water but over-watering must be guarded against, as too much
water seems to encourage the Hollyhock fungus, a disease which
has ruined many fine plants. Should this disease make its ap-
p>earance, pick off the affected leaves at once and bum them up
to prevent it spreading.
The Hollyhock, in addition to being propagated by seeds,
may be increased by cuttings of the young shoots which grow
up from the old root. These should be taken off when about
three or four inches long, and placed in a shady sheltered spot,
in soil composed of sand and leaf-mold, until rooted, when
they may be treated as recommended for seedlings.
[227]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Alyssum
A genus of hardy annuals or shrubby perennials, very free-
flowering and excellent for planting on dry banks and among
hardy shrubs, for covering the ground, or for rock work. Alys-
sum alpestre, or Sweet Alyssum, is raised by simply sowing the
seeds, in Winter or early Spring, where wanted, covering them
lightly with light soil; thin the plants to about six inches apart.
Alyssum saxatile, and other shrubby species, are best propagated
by cuttings placed in a cold frame in September and shaded for
about two weeks or until rooted, when they should be gradually
exposed to light and air and placed out of doors until wanted.
Amarantus
Hardy annuals with alternate entire leaves and small red or
green flowers in clustered spikes. They are mostly grown for
their handsome reddish-colored leaves and graceful habit of
growth. They require rich soil, a sheltered situation and a gen-
erous supply of water to develop their full beauty. Amarantus
bicolor, Amarantus salicifolius and Aniarantus tricolor will
be found among the best species for general planting.
Propagate by seeds sown in February, in sUght bottom heat,
in a glass frame. Cover the seeds to the depth of an eighth of
an inch.
Anemone
An extensive genus of hardy ornamental perennials with
ranunculus-like flowers and variously-shaped leaves, some species
(such as Anemone Japonica) growing to a height of three or
four feet, and others (such as Anemone hepatica) growing only
a few inches high. Some are suitable for borders, wWle others
(such as Anemone coronaria) are best grown in beds of rich
light soil, in a sheltered, partially-shaded situation. The tuber-
ous-rooted species should be planted in October or early in
[228]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
November, about six inches apart and three inches deep, and
if, in addition, there is planted a carpet of Pansies, or, better
still, of the blue-flowering Arabis, a most charming effect will be
produced. After flowering and as soon as the leaves turn yellow,
the tubers should be taken up and spread thinly in a shady airy
place until they are dry, when the leaves should be taken off the
tubers, and the tubers stored, in a cool dry place, in boxes of dry
soil until the planting season.
Anemone fulgens is a perennial species and prefers a moist
situation and partial shade, but does well under any ordinarj'^
garden treatment. Anemone Japonica makes an admirable
border plant, easily grown and propagated by division of the
root. For cutting purposes this species and its white variety are
invaluable.
Antirrhinum (Snapdragoi^)
This popular genus contains many species, but Antirrhinum
majus is the most popular and useful, its long racemes of many-
colored flowers being excellent for filling beds, for decorating the
herbaceous borders, or for planting among low-growing shrubs.
Their cultivation is easy, as they grow well in any garden soil.
They are easily propagated either by seeds or cuttings, but
the simplest way is by sowing a packet of seeds in early March
under glass, covering the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an
inch; prick out the yoimg seedlings, as soon as they are fit to
be handled, three inches apart in boxes, placing the boxes in a
cold frame and shading for a few days. After they are hardened
off, they are ready to be planted in their permanent quarters.
ITie seeds may be sown out of doors, in a sheltered spot, in
early Fall, and thinned to six inches apart, or transplanted to
where they are to remain, and, if a succession of bloom is de-
sired, another lot may be sown in April and treated as recom-
mended for those sown in Fall.
[229]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Aquilegia (Columbine)
Erect, hardy perennial herbs, flowering in panicles. The
Columbines love a semi-shaded situation, well-sheltered from
harsh winds and strong sunshine, preferably under the shelter
of low-growing deciduous shrubs. They also do well in the open
groimd, but under these conditions their flowers lack the delicate
tinting of those grown in the light shade ; any soil not too heavy,
if well drained, will suit them.
Seeds are produced in abundance, and should be sown,
covered to the depth of one-eighth of an inch, in the Fall (or
as soon as practicable after they are ripe) in a shady place con-
venient to water; as soon as they are strong enough to be re-
moved, they should be planted where they are to flower.
There are many handsome species including our native
species, Aquilegia chrysantha (yellow tinged with red), Aquilegia
caerulea from the Rocky Mountains (sky blue) and Aquilegia
glandulosa, etc., all of them well deserving a place in our gardens.
ASTEB
The Chinese Annual Asters are too well known to require
description, their diversity of color and compact habit of growth
rendering them almost universal favorites. They delight in a
cool moist loamy soil enriched with well-decomposed horse- or
cow-manure.
The seeds should be sown, early in March, either out of doors
or imder glass, in pans, pots or boxes in light sandy soil, and
covered very lightly with sandy leaf -mold; water lightly and
keep the soil moderately moist until they germinate ; as soon as
they make an inch of growth prick them out, about three inches
apart, in light rich soU and grow them on until they are about four
inches high; harden them off in a sheltered place out of doors,
and plant them about one foot apart where they are to flower;
[230]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
about two weeks after they have been planted, mulch the entire
surface of the soil, between the plants, with about one-half inch of
rotten manure and give a good watering. To produce fine flowers,
the Aster should never suffer from lack of water and should receive
a good drenching at least once a week; should extra large flowers
be desired, the flowers should be thinned to about five or six to
a plant, and the plant supported by a neat stake.
AUBRIETIA DELTOroEA
Where a dense cushion effect of deep blue is desired in early
Spring, procure a packet of Aubrietia seeds and sow in the open
where they are to flower, covering the seeds very lightly; Sep-
tember is the best time to sow. As soon as the seedlings are well
up, thin them to three inches apart and encourage them by
watering, never allowing the soil to become very dry. They may
also be sown in September in a cold frame, and transplanted in
November or December to where they are to bloom. Where
there is a stock of old plants they may be propagated by cuttings
any time after flowering. There are several varieties, all of them
very useful for carpet effects in early Spring.
Begonia
•
A large genus of succulent herbs with tuberous or fibrous
roots and showy flowers or leaves. Most of the richly-colored
flowers and handsomely-marked leaves are the result of hybri-
dizing by specialists, who have, by cross-fertilizing and high
cultivation succeeded in raising the Begonia to the high esti-
mation in which it is now held for indoor and outdoor decora-
tion. The hardier varieties of the tuberous section, and also
the Vernon types, make excellent plants for bedding, and the tall
stately Begonia rubra, if given a sheltered position, forms grand
specimens, especially in our coast counties.
[231]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
The tuberous Begonia should be much more generally seen
in our gardens than it is, as it is very hardy, is easily grown and
remains longer in bloom than most of our Summer-flowering
plants, commencing to flower early in June and giving a profusion
of gorgeously-colored blossoms until
late in November.
The Begonia delights in an
eastern exposure, a sheltered, par-
tially shaded situation, a light
rich loamy soil and plenty of mois-
ture at the root during the grow-
ing season. Anyone giving the
tuberous Begonia these simple con-
ditions will be generously rewarded
for the little trouble and expense
devoted to this beautiful exotic.
As soon as flowering is over,
B«goni> Vemon. ^j^^ tuberous-rooted species should
be taken up, the tubers cleaned and dried in a cool airy shed, and
afterwards packed in dry soil and laid away in a cool place until
March, when they should be potted singly, in pots a little larger
than the tubers, in soil composed of one-third loam, one-third
leaf-mold, and one-third sand with a sprinkling of old manure
mixed through the compost. Place the pots in a cool frame, and,
when the yoimg plants make from four to six inches of growth,
plant them out where they are to flower. The Vemon type is
propagated by seeds sown and covered very lightly with finely
sifted sandy leaf-mold, in February, the young plants being
pricked out three mches apart in pots or boxes as soon as they
are large enough to be handled, and planted out, about the first
of May, where wanted to bloom. They may also be easily in-
creased by dividing the roots of the previous year's growth just
before growth commences in the Spring.
I232I
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Bellis (Daisy)
The Bellis perennis or common Daisy is a well-known hardy
free-flowering border plant, growing well in any garden soil and
easily increased by simply dividing the roots inmiediately after
flowering, each crown making a separate plant. It may also be
raised from seeds, but as a large percentage of seeds obtained are
single-flowered, it is much safer and more satisfactory to propa-
gate by dividing the roots. In propagating from seeds, the seeds
should be covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch.
BOCCONIA
A genus of tall, stately, herbaceous, ornamental-leaved plants
with terminal panicles of inconspicuous flowers; an excellent
plant for giving subtropical effects m conjunction with other
large-leaved plants, or as single specimens on the lawn. To grow
their handsome cordate leaves to their full size requires a deep,
rich soil shd abundance of water. Bocconia cordata (from
Japan), Bocconia frutescens (from Mexico) and Bocconia inte-
grifolia (a native of Peru) will be found the best species for
growing m this latitude.
Propagate by taking up, in early Spring, the young suckers
which form about the roots, and planting them in nursery rows
imtil the following season. They are also easily propagated by
seeds sown in Spring in a sheltered spot in the open border ; cover
the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch.
Calandrinia
A genus of fleshy smooth-stemmed annuals or perennials
mostly natives of Australia, ChUe and California. Their culti-
vation is very simple and they grow freely in any soil or exposure
not too much shaded, whUe they are excellent for covering waste
places with color imtil early Smnmer.
Sow the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, where they are
[233]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
to remain, as soon as the Fall rains have moistened the soil;
should the seeds germinate very thickly, thin out to six inches
apart. Unless birds or insects pick up the seeds they will re-
seed the ground and come up again the following season.
Calendula
Hardy annuals which may be had in bloom every month of
the year by making three sowings, one in January, the next in
May and the third in August or early in September. A spot in
the open groimd will suit them, and, when the young plants are
a few inches high, they should be planted where they are to
flower, or the seeds may be sown, about one-eighth of an inch
deep, where they are to bloom, and thinned to one foot apart.
At the time of thinning, give the surface of the ground a mulch
of half an inch of well-rotted manure; this will encourage their
growth and produce larger and finer flowers.
Campanula
The Campanulas are among our most showy perennial or
biennial plants; all of them are elegant when in bloom and should
be seen more commonly than
they are. The stately Cam-
panula pyramidalis, which often
grows from eight to ten feet
high, forms grand pyramids of
blue or white; Campanula Me-
diimi (Canterbury bells) is among
the best of our border plants, and
the dwarf-spreading Campanula
carpaticaand its varieties are also
very desirable border plants.
They delight in a deep rich loam
well drained; a mulching of old
manure helps to keep the soil
[234]
Campanula carpatica.
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
cool during the Summer months and to conserve the moisture.
The tall-growing kinds should have their flower-stalks supported
by neat stakes painted green so as to show as little as possible,
All of the species are easily raised from seeds sown a quarter
of an inch deep in early Spring, out of doors or in a frame, and
again in the Fall, giving a succession of bloom throughout the
year.
Canna (Indian Shot)
A large genus of hardy herbaceous perennials, extensively
employed in beds and flower-borders, their handsome banana-
like leaves and many-colored flowers in
stately spikes giving fine tropical effects
in Summer gardening. Few plants are
more easily grown, but to do well, they
require a rich deep soil and plenty of
water at the root. Before planting, the
soil should be trenched two spades deep
and freely mixed with half-rotted
horse-manure. The plants should be
set out about two feet apart; if in
beds, the taller varieties should be
planted in the middle and the dwarf
kinds on the outside. A partially-shel-
tered simny spot should be selected, as
harsh winds rip the fohage and damage the flowers.
Propagation is easily effected by dividing the roots; each
rootstock with bud and roots attached will make an independent
plant. Divide the roots and plant new beds as soon as growth
commences in Spring, generally late in March or early in April.
They may also be propagated from seeds sown in the early
Spring and covered to the depth of half an inch.
Canna indica.
1 235]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Celosia
A genus of crested or pyramidal flowering plants much used
in bedding or for planting in groups or singly in flower borders.
The crested forms are dwarf, and form cockscomb-like heads,
sometimes nine inches long, and, in fine specimens, as much as
four inches broad. Those of bushy or pyramidal form are grace-
ful and open in habit, and grow, in fine specimens, from four to
six feet high. The Celosias dehght in a warm sunny situation
and a deep rich soil not too heavy.
They are propagated by seeds sown in March, in a gentle
heat, and covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch. When
they are two inches high, pot them singly in three-inch pots and
return them to a house or hotbed until they form fresh rootc in
the new soil, when they should be moved to a cold frame and
gradually hardened off by being given a free circulation of air.
Plant them, about the beginning of May, where they are to bloom.
Centaurea (Corn-flower)
This well-known genus is easily grown in any garden soil by
simply sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, in the
open ground, in March, where wanted to bloom, and thinning
the plants to six inches apart; after thinning, mulch the ground
about the plants with half an inch of old manure and give a good
watering.
Centaurea ragusina, the wooUy-leaved species, is better
treated by sowing the seeds in a gentle heat, in February, and,
when large enough to be handled, pricking them off three inches
apart in boxes. Harden them off gradually and plant them in the
open ground early in May. This species also may be propagated
by cuttings in September or October.
[236]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Cheiranthus (Wallflower)
Biennial or perennial herbs. These much admired Spring
flowers will thrive almost anywhere and with little attention,
by simply sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, where
they are to bloom, in October or November, and thinning the
plants when two or three inches high, to six inches apart, but,
where fine spikes of either single or double varieties are desired,
the seeds should be sown in August in a cold frame, and, when
large enough to be handled, the seedlings should be planted, three
inches apart, in boxes filled with light soil, and transplanted to
their blooming quarters early in November. This treatment
will bring them into flower early in April.
Chrysanthemum
This hardy and important Fall-blooming plant is a favorite
with all plant lovers, and, to grow to perfection, requires con-
siderable care and skill, but good results may easily be had by
ordinary garden treatment if the soil is deep and well-enriched
by a generous allowance of rotted manure.
It is propagated by cuttings, by suckers or by dividing the
roots in March or April. Cuttings should be inserted in a gentle
heat, or in a cold frame kept close and shaded for a few days;
as sck)n as they are rooted, they should be potted in three-inch
pots and returned to the frame, being shaded until they make
fresh roots, when they should be given plenty of air and kept
dose to the glass, care being taken that they never once suffer from
want of water. Plant them where they are to bloom, early in
May or as soon as they have made six inches of growth.
The young shoots should have their points pinched off to
encourage the stems to branch ; this operation should be re-
peated once a month imtil August ist. Plant them about two
feet apart; after planting, mulch the entire surface of the beds
or borders with half-rotted horse-manure and give the ground
[237]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
a thorough soaking with water. Chrysanthemums require
enormous quantities of water, care being taken, however, not to
sour the soil by giving too much. In the hot dry districts of the
State they should be planted, if possible, on a northern exposure
or partially shaded during the Summer months.
The Chrysanthemum is divided into many sections including
the incurved (whose strap-shaped florets curve inward), the re-
curved (whose florets curve outward from the center), the anem-
one (or grilled form), the Pompones (or small-flowered) and
the fringed Japanese or ragged section. The Pompones and the
recurved are considered the most satisfactory for outdoor bedding
as they are more free-flowering and not so easily damaged by
Fall winds or wet weather. When the young plants are about
twelve inches high, a neat stake should be placed at each stem,
and the stems tied to the stakes, as they need the support.
Cineraria
The Cineraria is one of our gayest early-Spring flowers, and,
as it is so easily grown, should be more commonly seen than it is.
It thrives in any soil, flowering most
freely in any district which is free
from frost, and, if planted imder the
shade of trees where there is a little
protection, it grows freely and blooms
^L \ T' constantly from January to July.
1^:^^^^ jt/ The Cineraria prefers a light sandy
^j|k ^^^^t SOU well enriched with old manure.
^1^ /" Propagation is effected by seeds,
sown in June, in a cold frame or in a
shaded spot out of doors. As the
seeds are very small, the surface soil,
on which the seeds are to be sown,
should be sifted leaf-mold, smoothed
[238]
Cineraria hybrida.
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
over and pressed firm. Sow the seeds thinly and regularly over the
surface and cover them lightly with finely sifted soil composed of
leaf-mold and sand well-mixed together, afterwards watering with
a fine-rosed watering-pot. The seeds should be shaded until they
germinate, and,- when the seedlings are large enough to be handled,
they should be transplanted to three inches apart, and placed
where they are to bloom, early in October. An ideal spot for
flowering the Cinerarias is under an evergreen tree whose lower
branches spread over the surface about four feet above the ground.
Coreopsis
This showy annual or perennial herbaceous plant is one of
our favorite border ornaments, flowering after most of our Sum-
mer annuals are past blooming and thriving in any good garden
loam.
Propagate by sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep,
either in a frame or in a sheltered place out of doors or where
they are to bloom. They germinate freely and should be planted
or thinned to one foot apart; mulch the groimd with weU-rotted
manure and give them plenty of water at the root. The peren-
nials are propagated by dividing the roots in early Spring, plant-
ing them two feet apart and treating them as recommended for
the annuals.
Cosmos
This well-known hardy annual is another of our Fall-bloom-
ing favorites, being much used for cut flowers in decorating
rooms as it lasts well in water. It thrives in any good garden
soil, well enriched with manure.
Propagate by seeds sown in March in a cold frame; cover the
seeds very lightly with finely sifted sandy leaf-mold. Trans-
plant them, when two inches high, into boxes, placing them four
inches apart; plant them in the open early in May, two feet
apart; mulch the ground well with old manure and water freely
during the Summer months.
[ 239 ]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
The Dahlia is a popular genus of only a few species, all natives
of Mexico. Dahlia variabilis is probably the species from which
most of the show Dahlias have origi-
nated, while Dahlia Juarezii is the
original of the Cactus section, the
varieties of which have become so
popular. As Dahlia imperialis is such
a late bloomer, no varieties of this, of
any great merit, have as yet been in-
troduced.
Dahlias are among the best of our
Summer and Autumn-flowering
plants, and are now considered Indis-
pensable in garden decoration,
whether the garden is large or small.
Dahlia imperiaii*. With care and attention they may
be had in flower from May until late in November. The first
planting should be done early in March, and a second planting
(which should be of Spring-struck cuttings) ought to be made
about June ist. The first planted will bloom from May until late
in the Fall, and the second will begin flowering in August, con-
tinuing in flower, if the old flowers are picked off and the small
weak shoots thinned out, until November.
To grow the Dahlia well requires good soil not too stiff, well-
enriched with half-rotted horse- or cow-manure. The ground on
which the Dahlia is to be grown should be trenched two spades
deep, the manure being freely mixed with the soil. Before plant-
ing, the ground should be staked off, and the varieties grouped
according to their color and height, their respective positions
being fixed, so that, when they come in bloom, the whole will be
a pleasing blending of color and form. Before planting also, the
soil, immediately about where the young plants are to be set,
[240]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
should be freely stirred to the depth of a foot; after planting,
give the soil a good soaking of water and tie the young stems to
temporary stakes. As the Dahlia is a gross feeder, water must
be supplied in abundance about three times a week, and, after
flowering commences, manure-water should be given once every
week; this will give greater depth of color and substance to the
flowers and more vigor to the plants, enabling them to make fresh
growth and a longer continuance of bloom.
Propagation is effected by seeds, cuttings or division of the
roots; by seeds sown and covered to the depth of a quarter of an
inch, in February; by cuttings, in March, taken from the young
shoots which start from the neck of the tubers; by division in
early Spring before growth commences. Young plants raised
from cuttings generally give better results. To get good cuttings,
the tubers should be placed in a frame with a gentle bottom
heat. Place the tubers about a foot apart over the bed of the
frame and shake about one inch of soil, composed of half leaf-
mold and half sand, over the tubers, care being taken that the
necks of the tubers are not covered; give a light sprinkling of
water and keep the sash of the frame closed so as to have a warm
moist atmosphere at all times, while a light sprinkling of water
should be given once a day. This will be sufficient to induce the
production of shoots, and each of these may be removed as soon
as it has two joints. Place the cuttings (in a warm frame or hot-
house) in beds, boxes or pots in leaf-soil and sand, where, in about
a week or ten days, roots will be formed ; as soon as rooted they
should be potted singly in three-inch pots and placed in the same
temperature where they should remain for two weeks or until they
take with the new soil; they should then be removed to a cold
frame, and gradually exposed to the open air. They should be
given more pot-room as required, or planted out where they are
to flower. After the plants are finished blooming in the Fall,
the tubers should be taken up and placed in a cool airy shed until
they are wanted in Spring. Where there are no facilities for
[241]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
propagating by cuttings, the tubers may be left in the ground
until about March first, when they should be taken up and
separated singly, allowing one shoot to each tuber, and planted
where they are to flower.
Delphinium (Larkspur)
A race of hardy ornamental perennials, biennials or annuals
with tall branching flower-stems and beautiful palmated leaves.
They are very easily grown, but, if fine flowers are wanted, they
must be given special attention, while the soil should be deep
and enriched with old manure well incorporated with the soil.
They should be planted about three feet apart, and, as soon as
the shoots attain a height of one foot, a stake must be placed at
each shoot for its support, as they are easily broken by the winds.
After flowering, the stalks shoidd be cut down, when the yoimg
growth will sprout from the base to form flowering shoots for the
following year.
Propagate by division of the roots, or by seeds which may
be sown at any time, when the ground is in order, from October to
February, the seeds being covered to the depth of a quarter of an
inch. Division of the roots is much the simplest plan for in-
creasing them, and early Spring the best season for dividing the
roots. The annual species (such as the common Larkspur) are
propagated only by seeds sown in the open where wanted to
bloom; when the seedlings are three or four inches high, thin
them to one foot apart and midch with old manure.
DiANTHUS Caryophyllus (Camotion)
There are no hardy flowers more deserving general cultivation
than Carnations, as they present charming diversity of coloring
with delicious, spicy perfume. They thrive best in a fresh loamy
soil not too heavy, a yellow or brown loam being best suited for
growing them.
[242]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Propagation is efifected by seeds, by cuttings or by layers; by
seeds, in early Spring, sown in pots or pans in light rich soil
composed of half sand and half leaf-mold, the seeds being cov-
ered lightly with the soil. Place in a mild bottom heat, and,
when the seedlings are about one inch in height, prick them oflf
about two inches apart in boxes; then return them to the same
temperature (a mild hotbed) and shade them during hot sunshine
for a few days or imtil the young seedlings have taken root in the
new soil; afterwards remove them to a cold frame and gradually
expose them to the open air. Plant them, about the middle of
April, where they are to flower, in a sunny situation protected
from cold winds, in soil which is fresh, not having been used for
at least a year before in growing flowers of any sort.
In propagating by cuttings, use only wood which is short-
jointed and carries strong healthy leaves. Dibble them about
one inch apart in boxes filled with sandy leaf-mold, and place
them, in March, in cold frames or in a shaded, sheltered spot
out of doors. They may also be put in (in a similar situation)
in September with equally good results. As soon as they are
rooted, transplant them three inches apart either into boxes or
into a sheltered border until ready for their permanent quarters.
Where only a few growths of any desirable variety can be
had, propagation by layering is perhaps the surest of all methods.
Layering is effected by simply bending one of the branches or
shoots into the soil (after, with a sharp knife, having cut a slit
into the shoot on the imderside, about half through the stem)
and, with a hooked peg, pegging it into the groimd about one-
half inch below the surface. Then, to a light stake, tie the point
of the shoot in an upright position, which will open the cut or
slit, care being taken not to sever entirely the point of the shoot
from the main stem. Next cover the cut part with light sandy
soil and give a good watering. Keep the soil moderately moist,
and in a few weeks the layers will be rooted when they may be
severed from the parent stem and planted where they are to bloom..
[243]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Should the Carnation be attacked by rust or spot, pick off all
the affected leaves at once and spray the entire plant with Bor-
deaux Mixture composed of one poimd of powdered copper-
sulphate in two gallons of water and one pound of fresh slacked
lime in two gallons of water, these being mixed together and
enough water being added to make ten gallons. Mix and stir the
whole thoroughly and apply with a sponge or syringe, seeing that
the imderside of all the leaves is reached by the spray. About
May first give the soil aroimd the plants a good mulching with
very old well-decomposed cow-manure and give water as required.
As soon as the flower-stalks are six inches high, stake each flower-
stem with a light stake about one-quarter of an inch in thickness,
tying the stem loosely to the stake, to keep the flowers from being
blown about by the winds or from being bent to the ground by
watering. Pick off all sj)ent flowers as soon as they lose color,
and give water as required.
DiANTHUS
A genus of many species including the Chinese Pink (Dianthus
Chinensis), Sweet- William (Dianthus barbatus), etc., of easy
culture and thriving in any good soil. The Sweet-William is
generally propagated by sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch
deep, in July. When the seedlings are one inch in height, prick
them off, three inches apart, in boxes, and plant them, in October
or November, where they are wanted to bloom. The Chinese
. Pink should be sown in a warm frame or greenhouse in February,
pricked off three inches apart, in boxes, when one inch high, and
planted out of doors in April or early in May.
[244]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Digitalis (Foxglove)
A genus of about twenty species
of hardy perennial or biennial flower-
ing plants of stately habit, bearing
racemes of funnel-shaped flowers.
They thrive in any soil or situation
but prefer a shaded spot under the
limbs of trees or among tall-growing
shrubs where they give a fine effect
in early Summer.
Propagate by seeds sown out of
doors, in June, and covered very
lightly. After the first rains in the
Autumn, plant out the seedlings
about a foot apart. Digitaiu.
DORONICUM
This old favorite herbaceous
plant should be more commonly
seen in our gardens than it is. Its
Marguerite-like yellow flowers,
growing on tall stately stems, make
it an excellent cut flower for filling
vases and decorating rooms in early
Spring. It is of easy culture in any
garden soil.
Propagate by division of the
Doronicum. TOOts during December or January.
EscHSCHOLTZlA (California Poppy)
This beautiful native wildflower, the glory of our fields and
hillsides, requires no description. Any garden soil suits it, the
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
stronger the soil the deeper the color of the blossoms; in heav>-
loam they are deep orange in color, while in sand they are of a
pale lemon shade with smaller flowers and shorter leaves.
Propagate, after the first Fall rains, by sowing seeds in places
where they are to flower, and covering the seeds to the depth of
an eighth of an inch. The young plants, when two inches high,
should be thinned to six inches apart; give the ground about
them a hght mulching of old manure. In ordinary seasons they
require no artificial irrigation. There are several garden varieties
with different shades of color from white to a reddish orange,
including some which are pink.
Fuchsia
A genus comprising about fifty species of small shrubs or
trees, most of them ha\Tng been introduced from South America
and Mexico. Fuchsias are among
the most popular and ornamental of
our garden plants, especially along
the coast where they receive the bene-
fit of the cool ocean breeze and attain
a height of twenty feet. Whether the
garden be large or small, it should
have a few representative Fuchsia
plants. They are excellent for cover-
ing fences or walls, where their
branches with their panicles of rich
flowers should be allowed to grow and
i droop naturally. For forming bush
P^iwia- or pyramid-shaped specimens.
Fuchsias are admirably adapted; if for pyramid, they should be
trained with a single stem, the branches being pinched when
they grow out of shape and the main stem being allowed to take
the lead, it being pinched only when it fails to branch. When
a bush-shape is wanted, pinch the main shoot and allow the
[246]
Specbnen of Fuchsia.
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
branches to grow freely, pinching those only which are incUned
to grow ahead of the others and thus threaten to get the plant out
of shape. Before growth commences in Spring, the plants should
be pnmed back to the shape desired, and at least half of the
previous year's growth cut oflf.
Propagate in September by cuttings placed in a cold frame
and kept close and shaded for about two weeks when a little
more air may be admitted, or they may be struck (in the open
air) in a shaded place away from draughts of air, and kept moist.
Soil for the cuttings should be composed of half sand and half
leaf-mold; as soon as the cuttings are well rooted, they should be
potted singly in three-inch pots and replaced in the frame imtil
they form fresh roots. Protect the plant from frost during the
first Winter by a covering of light cloth or branches of Cypress
or other evergreen. There are numerous varieties of the Fuchsia,
some of them of large size, very free-flowering and of all shades
of red, purple and white.
Gazania
This showy perennial is a native of the Cape of Good Hope,
and is perfectly hardy, thriving in any garden soil and being an
excellent plant for forming borders to walks, or for planting in
rockeries.
Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame, in September
or October, in the open groimd in a well-sheltered place, in soil
composed of half sand and half light loam well-mixed together;
after they are rooted, plant them in a prepared bed two inches
apart imtil wanted for planting where they are to flower.
Gerberia jAMiESONn {Transvaal Daisy)
A remarkably handsome perennial herbaceous plant which
has recently been introduced from South Africa. It grows in
[249]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
heavy cliunps, has leaves about one foot in length, deeply cut,
and blooms almost continuously throughout the year, bearing
great masses of Marguerite-like flowers which are of a bright
terra cotta color and have stems about one and a half feet in
length. The Transvaal Daisy should be in every garden.
Propagate by seeds sown during Spring, in soil composed of
half leaf-mold, well decomposed, and half silver-sand, covering
the seeds to the depth of an eighth of an inch. As soon as the
seedlings have formed four leaves, they should be potted singly
in two-inch pots and afterwards given larger pots as required.
Propagation of the Transvaal Daisy may also be effected by divi-
sion of the roots during March or April.
Geum
A genus comprising about thirty species of hardy perennial
plants, very useful for forming groups in the flower-border, and
for cutting for indoor decoration. They bear yellow, red or
white flowers, some varieties being single- flowered and others
double.
«
They are of easy culture and thrive in any soil. Propagate
by division of the roots in Winter or early Spring or by seeds
sown, one-quarter of an inch deep, in October, where they are to
bloom, thinning out the seedlings to one foot apart when they are
about two inches high.
GiLIA
This beautiful hardy native annual makes a most attractive
mass of color when grown in a suitable place, as for example, a
sunny spot in the open groimd away from the garden proper,
among the shrubs or in any semi-waste spot where a Spring
effect is desired. It is of easy culture; in November spade the
ground and, after raking it over, sow the seeds one-eighth of an
[250]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
inch deep. Should the seeds germinate too thickly, thin the
young plants, when two inches high, to three or four inches
apart and they will require no further attention.
Gladiolus
This genus contains about ninety species which are among
our most popular garden flowers, their stately habit and gorgeous
spikes of handsome flowers making them indispensable in all
gardens. While some are pure white, they contain a great va-
riety of color, ranging through all shades of pink and red to dark
crimson, and also including yellows and purples. Some varieties
are beautifully flaked and striped. The Gladioli should have a
deep rich soil and a sunny situation and should be' generously sup-
plied with water during the growing season, while a heavy
mulching of old cow-manure about the roots assists them to per-
fect their flowers. Each flower-stalk should be tied to a light
wooden stake to keep it from being moved or blown about by
winds. As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow in the Fall,
the corms should be taken up with their tips intact, and laid in
a cool dry shed to become ripened, when the tops may be cut off
close to the bulb, and the corms placed in boxes, covered with
dry soil and kept dry and cool until planting time. Plant the first
lot of bulbs in February and the next lot in May; plant them
about three inches deep, and one foot apart.
Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring and covered to the
depth of a quarter of an inch, or by the small corms or bulbs
which form aroimd the old corms or on the ends of the roots.
These smaU corms should be planted in Spring in a nursery bed
and grown on for a year before being planted in the flower-border.
Helianthus
This genus includes the common Sunflower and about eighty
other species. The tall-growing annual species thrive in any good
[251]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
soil and show best when planted among tall shrubs or trees where
they have a good background of foliage. The perennial species,
not being such tall growers, are very suitable for planting in
climips in the herbaceous border, where their dense masses of
bright yellow are very effective.
The "multiflorus" varieties are the most popular; some of
them when well grown are as large and as double as a Dahlia.
The annual species are propagated by seeds sown, where they
are to flower, in early Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth of a
quarter of an inch. Propagate the perennial species by division
of the roots in early Spring. The annuals, when four inches high,
should be thinned to eighteen inches apart, and the perennials
should be planted two feet apart each way.
Heliotrope
A genus comprising over one hundred species (mostly herbs,
only a few of them being shrubby), the conmion Heliotrope
(Heliotrope Peruvianum) being the origin of most of the large
trussed varieties now in use. They are of easy culture, preferring
a light rich soil with plenty of water and a sunny situation.
Propagate by cuttings inserted, in September, in sand and
placed in a cool frame and kept shaded for the first two weeks.
Where the temperature falls below thirty-three degrees Fahren-
heit, the young plants should be protected from cold during the
Winter.
Heuchera
This pretty saxifrage-like plant is very useful for Spring-
flowering, its bright pinkish-red flowers continuing in bloom for
months. It is also good for cutting and for filling small vases.
It is of easy culture, thriving in any soil. Heuchera sanguinea
will be foimd one of the best species for general use.
Propagate by dividing the crowns in early Spring.
[252]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Iberis {Candytuft)
This old favorite is of easy culture and not particular as to
soil. Of course, it shows finer flowers and remains longer in
bloom when given good rich soil than when a poor soil is used.
The annual sorts are raised from seeds sown either in September
or October, or in February or March. The seeds should be sown
where they are to flower, and covered to the depth of an eighth
of an inch, the seedlings, when two inches high, being thinned out
to six inches apart each way. The perennial species, in addition
to being propagated by seeds, may be increased by cuttings placed
in a cold frame in October or November or by division of the
roots in February or March.
Impatiens
This genus includes the well-known Balsam and the free-
flowering Impatiens Sultani from Zanzibar.
The Balsam delights in a rich light soil and a warm sheltered
situation away from cold winds and fog. Being an annual, it is
raised only from seeds. The seeds should be sown in a hotbed
or warm greenhouse and covered very lightly with finely-sifted
sandy leaf-mold, March being a good month for the planting of
the seeds which germinate in a few days. The seedlings should be
pricked out, as soon as they are large enough to be handled, and
planted three inches apart in pans or boxes; as soon as they fill
the space in the boxes, they should be planted out where they
are to bloom, or given more root-room so that their growth may
not receive any check, otherwise their stems will become stimted
and the flowers small and colorless. After planting them out of
doors, give them a good watering and mulch them with well-
decayed manure, giving them copious waterings at least twice
a week.
Impatiens Sultani, being a perennial, in addition to being
easily raised from seeds may be increased by cuttings, taken, in
[253I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
March or April, from tops of the young growths, inserted in
sandy leaf-mold and placed in a hotbed or warm greenhouse
where they will root in about ten days and be ready for potting.
Impatiens Sultani makes an elegant pot plant, useful for decorat-
ing the greenhouse or for placing on a warm veranda.
Iresine
This very useful ornamental-leaved bedding plant is much
used in outlining formal figures in carpet-bedding and ribbon
borders and is considered an indispensable plant for Siunmer-
planting. It is easily propagated by cuttings inserted imder glass,
in September or October, or by cuttings in the Spring, inserted in
sand in a hotbed or warm propagating pit. As soon as they are
rooted, plant the yoimg plants, three inches apart in light rich
soil, in pots or boxes, returning them to a warm frame or green-
house imtil they take root in the soil, when they may be removed
to a cold frame and gradually hardened by exposure to the open
air. They should be planted out in their permanent quarters
late in April or early in May.
Lobelia
This genus comprises about two hundred species, a few
shrubby, many herbaceous and a large number annuals. The
dwarf annuals are very useful for bordering flower-beds and for
forming a ground- work for tall-growing specimens, for instance,
a bed of the tall-growing scarlet-flowered Lobelia cardinalis
with a carpet or groimd-work of the dwarf blue Lobelia speciosa,
making a charming combination.
They are all easily grown and thrive in any garden soil. The
cardinalis type should be planted about one foot apart and the
speciosa six inches apart.
The annual species are raised from seeds sown under glass;
the seeds should be sown, in February, in soil composed of half
[254]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
leaf-mold and half light loam with enough sand to keep the
compost open, the soil barely covering the seeds. The seeds
being very fine, the soil for covering them should be sifted through
a fine sieve. Place the pots or boxes where they have a little
bottom heat; when the yoimg seedlings are large enough to be
handled, prick them out three inches apart in boxes and return
them to a place with the same temperature for two weeks, when
they may be placed in a cold frame and gradually hardened oflF,
then placed out of doors until April or May, when they should
be planted where they are to flower.
The Lobelia cardinalis type may also be raised from seeds,
but they are generally increased by dividing the roots. This
should be done in February or March.
LUPINUS
This hardy genus contains about eighty species, most of them
American and many being natives of the Pacific Coast. The
perennial species form handsome specimens in the shrubbery
borders, and the annual species are beautiful in the wild garden or
for planting in the flower-borders. Lupins delight in a light
sandy soil, thriving even in the most barren sands.
Their propagation consists simply of sowing the seeds where
they are to flower and raking the ground on which the seeds have
been sown. The best season for planting the seeds is in October
or immediately after the first rains.
The shrubby blue-flowered Lupinus Chamissonis and the yel-
low Lupinus arboreus form handsome bushes from three to six
feet tall and as much through the branches. They are very free-
flowering; the annual species, such as Lupinus bicolor, form
beautiful masses or beds. The herbaceous species are best when
grown in partial shade, in the uncultivated copse, in hedge-rows
or along the banks of streams. They require no artificial irrigation.
[255]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Lychnis
Thisold-fashioned favorite has not been grown much of late,
but as there is now a tendency to return to the old style of her-
baceous borders, no doubt the beautiful Lychnis, with its many
varieties of charming bright colors, will again be seen in our
gardens. The Lychnis thrives in any soil, but prefers a hght
sandy soil and a sunny situation.
In October or November prepare the soil by digging it over
and raking it smooth. Then sow the seeds where they are desired
to bloom, and cover them lightly. Should the young plants come
up too thickly, thin them, if the tall-growing species, to one foot
apart, if the dwarf-growing species, to six inches apart.
Matthiola (Stock)
These popular herbs or sub-shrubs are probably the most com-
monly grown of any flowering plants. Their colors range from
white, through all shades of pink
and red, into purple and violet, an-
other point in their favor being
their dehghtful fragrance. There
are several types or classes, some
flowering in early Spring and some
in Summer, while others bloom in
Autumn, this depending a good deal
on the time of sowing the seeds.
Stocks require a deep rich soil and
a sheltered situation with plenty
of moisture at the roots. Plant
them six inches apart, choosing a
s*^x^ cloudy day for the operation ; after
planting, give the soil a good soaking of water and afterwards
mulch the surface of the soil with old manure; water at least
twice a week.
[256]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Propagate by sowing seeds of ten-week Stock early in March,
in a hotbed, the intermediate varieties in April, and the Bromp-
tons late in July. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of
an inch. As soon as the young plants are large enough to be
handled, prick them out (in pots or boxes) three indfes apart in
light rich soil composed of one-third leaf-mold, one-third light
loam, one-sixth old well-decomposed horse-manure and one-sixth
soft sand, weU mixed together; return them into the same tem-
perature for about ten days, after which they should be trans-
ferred into a cold frame and gradually exposed to the air, care
being taken that the yoimg plants do not receive any check in
their growth either by sudden exposure to cold or by being taken
from imder glass and planted in the open without first being
placed out of doors for at least a week until they get over the
change from shelter to exposure. Another danger to be guarded
against is leaving young plants in the boxes after they have
exhausted the soil, in which case the stems become hard and
barkbound, thus forcing them to send up their flower-stalks
which, on account of their stunted condition, are puny and weak.
In short, the young plants should be kept in a vigorous growing
condition from the time they germinate until planted where they
are to flower.
MiMULUS
This showy and ornamental genus comprises many fine-
flowering annuals and a few shrubby species ; one of the shrubby
species (Mimulus glutinosus) may be found blooming on our
hillsides nearly every month of the year. Mimulus cardinalis,
with its bright scarlet flowers, is a lovely perennial, thriving best
by the side of a running stream, and another of our natives is
Mimulus luteus which flourishes by the banks of our ponds and
lakes. The many and vari-colored varieties of Mimulus luteus
are very effective garden flowers. Mimulus moschatus (the com-
mon Musk) is another species of this genus and is a well-known
[257]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
and favorite plant both for growing in pots and for planting out-
side in clumps, or for growing a ground-work for tall-stemmed
flowers such as Lobelia cardinalis.
Propagate by seeds sown (in early Spring) in the open air»
where they are to flower, or by cuttings inserted (in early Spring)
in a shady spot protected from wind and strong sunshine. The
seeds, being very small, should be covered with soil very lightly.
Mimulus moschatus is best propagated by dividing the roots in
early Spring or before growth commences.
MUSA
The Musas are among the very best of the large-leaved dec-
orative plants, Musa Ensete having the largest leaves. It is much
used in subtropical gardening, sometimes producing leaves over
fifteen feet in length with a breadth of three feet, these, with their
broad midrib of reddish-brown color, making it one of the hand-
somest plants in a well-kept garden. The Musas delight in a
warm sunny well-sheltered situation, a rich well-manured deep
soil and plenty of water during the growing season.
Propagate Musa Ensete by seeds, sown to the depth of half
an inch, in a hotbed, in February or March, and potted singly
in four-inch pots as soon as the seedlings are six inches high; give
them more pot-room as required, planting them, in early May,
where they are to remain. Musa Cavendishii, Musa coccinea and
most of the other species are easily increased by dividing the roots
or by taking the young suckers which form at the base of the
stem, potting them, at any time during Winter or Spring, in light
rich soil and placing them in bottom-heat until rooted.
Myosotis {Forget-me-not)
A genus of elegant annual flowering plants excellent for early
Spring bedding, or, preferably, for covering the groimd among
upright growing shrubs, aU being of the easiest culture and thriv-
ing in any soil.
[258]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Propagate by sowing the seeds, where they are to flower, early
in October, or after the first rains, covering them very lightly.
When the young plants are two or three inches high, thin them to
six inches apart and the result will be a pleasing ground-work of
pretty pale-blue, giving a fine finish to the flower-bed or shrub-
bery group.
Nemophila
This early-flowering favorite is one of the best of our native
annuals for filling flower-beds, clumping in the flower-borders,
carpeting shrubbery-groups or covering dry banks to give natural
effects. Its culture is of the simplest, all that is necessary being to
sow the seeds thinly to tiie depth of an eighth of an inch, where
they are to bloom, immediately after the first Fall rains; any
soil will suit, down to the poorest sand or even a rocky ledge if
the rock is loose enough to allow the roots to penetrate.
Nemophila insignis and Nemophila aurita will be found
the most useful of the species for general planting.
CEnothera
Evening Primroses are among our favorite natives and are
most desirable plants for the decoration of our gardens and shrub-
beries; planted among shrubs, where their flower-stalks and
bright-colored (pink, white or yellow) flowers show against the
background of shrubby leaves, the effect is very pleasing, their
flowers being among the most beautiful and attractive of our
native perennial herbs.
They thrive well in any soil not too shallow, and require little
or no artificial irrigation. CEnothera biennis, CEnothera albi-
caulis, CEnothera bistorta, CEnothera ovata and CEnothera cheir-
anthifolia are all natives of this Coast and especially effective.
Propagate by seeds sown, to the depth of an eighth of an inch,
where they are to bloom, in October or! immediately after the first
[259]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
rains have well soaked the soil, or by division of the root-stocks
in Winter or early Spring. The seeds may be sown in a seed-bed
and the seedlings transplanted when three or four inches high.
The tall-growing sorts should be planted one foot apart and
the dwarf species six inches apart.
OXALIS
A large genus comprising over two hundred species scattered
widely over the Temperate Zone but mainly in South America,
Mexico and South Africa. They are mostly used as border-plants
or for covering the surface of the ground under or among shrubs.
They prefer a sandy soil and a sunny situation. AU of the
species are of easy culture and are propagated by division of the
roots jai early Spring. Plant them about a foot apart. They root
quickly and spread rapidly; they should be taken up and re-
planted every second year.
P^ONiA {Pceony)
A well-known genus of hardy plants, natives of America,
Asia and Japan, which are excellent plants for the decoration
of the herbaceous border or for groups in the shrubbery. The
species Paeonia officinalis have deciduous stems and perennial
roots. Their flowers, both single and double, which range in
color from purple through red and pink to pure white, are very
effective in grouping and are also great favorites for cutting for
room decoration.
Paeonia Moutan, the Japanese species, are highly decorative,
and, having a range of color quite as extensive as the herbaceous
species, are also most desirable plants for planting in groups in
the shrubbery or garden-border. Their flowers are of immense
size, single and double, and most gorgeous coloring.
Plant them in January in heavy rich loam which is at least
two feet in depth, care being taken not to cover the crown of
[260]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
the plant too deeply, not over one inch of soil covering the
crown. During the season of growth, they should be watered
generously, and the surface of the soil should be weU mulched
with old manure. The climips of the herbaceous species should
not be moved or disturbed more often than once in five or six
years, as it is found that disturbing their roots has a weakening
eflfect on the plants. Plant them about three feet apart each
way. If left alone and in good soil they will soon form large
clmnps. Propagate the herbaceous species, in Winter or early
Spring, by division of the roots, and the tree Moutan or Japanese
species by grafting on to the roots of the herbaceous kinds in
Winter.
Papaver {Poppy)
A hardy easily-grown genus of annual and perennial flower-
ing plants, natives of the temperate or subtropical regions of
Asia, North Africa and Europe. They grow well in any com-
mon garden soil and are excellent for cutting, for decoration in-
doors or for giving gay, many-colored effects in beds or flower-
borders; they are also good for sowing or planting in woods or
shrubberies.
Sow seeds of Papaver Danebrog, Papaver somniferum, or the
Shirley species, in February, where intended to bloom; sow the
seeds one-quarter of an inch deep. Thin the young plants to one
foot apart, top-dressing the ground about the young seedlings
with old manure to the depth of one-half or one inch; water
when required.
The perennial species, such as Papaver bracteatum, Papaver
orientale, etc., are propagated by division of the roots in early
Spring or by seeds sown, in July, in a cold frame, pricked out
in boxes as soon as large enough to be handled and planted in
their permanent quarters in November.
[261]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Pelargonium
Without doubt the Geranium is the most universally grown
plant to be found in our gardens, and deservedly so, its hardiness,
its handsome evergreen foliage, with its ever-blooming many-col-
ored flowers, making it a general favorite.
The Pelargonium is divided into several sections, including
the common bedding or zonale, the ivy-leaved creeping section
and the show or Lady Washingtons, these again being subdivided
into innumerable varieties. All are of very easy culture and
thrive well in any soil and in almost any aspect.
Propagate by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in boxes or beds
in the open air, in September. When they are rooted, rebox them
in soil composed of equal parts loam, leaf-mold and old manure,
with a little sand to keep the mixture open and free.
In frostless sections, the young plants may remain out of doors
all Winter; in other sections they should be placed under glass
until all danger from frost has passed, and planted, where they
are to bloom, in April or early May.
Pentsteuon
This hardy and popular pereimial
is among the most beautiful of our
herbaceous plants, having erect, flow-
ering branches (two or three feet tall)
and funnel-shaped flowers, the prin-
cipal colors being blue, pink, scarlet
and white with all the intervening
shades. The Pentstemon grows well
in any fairly good soil. The flower-
stalks of the taller-growing varieties
should be supported by light stakes to
keep them from being blown about
by winds or borne down by heavj-
IPentetemoii. watering.
[362]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Propagation is effected by seeds and cuttings; the seeds
should be sown, to the depth of an eighth of an inch, in Febru-
ary or early in March, in a cool frame. When large enough to
be handled the seedlings should be pricked off, three inches apart,
into pots or boxes, and planted out, when about four inches high,
where they are to bloom. They should be exposed to full air
and sunshine at least one week before being planted out of
doors. Propagation by cuttings is made, in September, by
inserting the cuttings either in a cold frame, where they may be
shaded for the first two weeks, or in a shady spot away from
cold draughts of wind, out of doors, in soil composed of half
sand and half leaf-mold.
Petunia
A genus of hardy, free-flowering plants belonging to the So-
lanum family, natives of Brazil
and the Argentioe Republic. They
are very showy and effective for
planting in beds or masses, also for
planting in waste ground or where
water is not very plentiful. They
thrive m any soil and require very
little attention in the way of
watering if the soil about the
plants is kept loose and clear of
weeds. If extra large flowers are
wanted, give them good rich soil
and a reasonable amount of water.
Petimias are raised principally Petunia,
from seeds sown in February, one-sixteenth of an inch deep, in
a cold frame, pricked off (into boxes) three inches apart, and, as
soon as they are of sufficient size, hardened by being placed in the
open air for a week or ten days and then planted where they are
to flower.
[263]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Special varieties, such as the double and finely-fringed single,
are propagated by cuttings; these should be taken oflF in Septem-
ber and hiserted in sandy soil, either in boxes or in the bed of the
trame, and kept shaded during the middle of the day imtil young
roots btgin to form, when they shoidd be given more air and
light and gradually exposed to full sunshine. Plant them out
of doors, where they are to bloom, at any season where there is
no frost, and in other sections as soon as cold weather is past in
the Spring.
Pm-ox
This brilliant native of the Eastern States is becoming a
general favorite in our gardens, its handsome panicles of charm-
ingly beautiful flowers being excellent, when cut, for the decora-
tion of our rooms and halls. It also gives color and brightness
to our flower-borders, and, where a good collection of the early
or Simmier-flowering perennial varieties together with the tall-
growing Autumn late-flowering varieties are cultivated, a long
season of continuous bloom may be had by the different kinds
succeeding each other in flowering.
The dwarf species, such as Phlox subulata, are very useful for
covering rock-work and for forming front lines in mixed borders.
The annual Phlox Drummondii is one of our most beautiful
Summer-blooming plants. This species and its many varieties
are suitable for filling flower-beds or for forming a ground-cov-
ering among taller-stemmed subjects. They (Phlox Drum-
mondii) are raised from seeds sown m February in a warm hot-
bed, a little bottom-heat being of great assistance to their free
germination in pots or boxes in light sandy soil. Seeds should
be covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch. As soon as the
seedlings are large enough to be handled, they should be pricked
off into boxes and grown on in frames until large enough to be
[264]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
planted in the open air. Before being planted, they should be
hardened oflf by being placed in the open air for a week or ten
days.
The perennial species are propagated by cuttings of the young
shoots which start from the old stools in Spring. Take off the
shoots when they make a growth of four inches and place them
in light sandy soil in a cold frame, shading them for a few days
during hot sunshine. As soon as they are rooted, take them out
and plant them in the open border in rows eight inches apart and
three inches apart in the row. These will make good plants for
flowering the following season.
The most popular system of increasing the number of
plants is by simply dividing the old stools into small pieces in
early Spring and replanting. In planting the tall-growing species,
set them out about two feet apart. In Summer a good top-dress-
ing of old manure will be found very beneficial, besides conserving
the moisture by preventing evaporation.
Platystemon (Cream-Cup)
This charming little annual is one of our earliest Spring
flowers, flowering some years as early as January. Its lovely
straw-colored, poppy-like flowers are always welcome wherever
they are found.
It is propagated by simply shaking a pinch of seed where
a patch of the pretty cream-colored flowers is desired, in October,
or immediately after the groimd has received a good rain in the
Fall. Should the seedlings come up too thickly, thin them to
three inches apart.
[265]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
POINSETTIA
Poinsettia pulcherrima, the most showy of the species, is a
general favorite, during Decem-
ber and January, for the decora-
tion of our halls and dinner
tables.
In the northern counties the
Poinsettia is treated as a green-
house plant; from Santa Bar-
bara south it gives grand results
when grown in the open ground,
its great scarlet bracts often
being twelve inches or more
in width and the plant itself
frequently growing ten feet high
PoinMttia. and six feet wide.
PORTUIACA
This old favorite, popularly known as Purslane, is sometimes
used in salads but generally is grown for its gaily-colored flowers
of purple, yellow, or pink. A near-allied species, the Calandrinia
caulescens, is a native of California and grows abundantly all
over the State.
Its cultivation, like that of the Portulaca, is very simple;
after cultivating the ground, sow the seeds thinly and rake the
ground lightly to cover the seeds, any time between the fall of
the first rains and the first of February. This will insure a bed
of bright flowers in Spring and early Sunmier. Thin the plants
to eight inches apart as soon as they are large enough to be
handled.
POTENTILLA
This pretty little perennial-flowering plant is found very
useful for planting in the herbaceous border and among shrubs
where its bright single and also double flowers are very attractive.
[.66]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
It grows well in any good garden soil but prefers a light sandy soil
or a situation among rocks.
It is easily propagated by dividing the roots, in early Spring,
or by seeds sown, to the depth of an eighth of an inch, in the
Fall, where they are to bloom, and thinned to six inches apart.
Primula
A genus comprising between seventy and eighty species of
hardy perennials. The common Primrose, the CowsUp, the
Chinese Primula obconica, the
Primula Japonica, besides many
others, are charming early-Spring
flowers, often opening their pretty
yellow, mauve, brown or white
blossoms as early as January and
continuing in flower for months.
Many of the double varieties are
very floriferous, almost hiding the
foliage with their beautiful white,
pink or purple blossoms. The
Primulas dehght in a shady, moist
situation facing the East or North,
in a light rich soil. Plant them one Primula obconica.
toot apart.
Propagate by seeds sown in Spring, covered to the depth of
one-eighth of an inch, and kept growing in pots or boxes or a
sheltered, shady border until Fall (when they should be planted
where they are to flower) or, where a stock of old plants is at
hand, by dividing the roots in the Fall.
Pyrethrum (Feverfew)
This hardy herbaceous perennial is best known here by the
variety named the Golden Feather which is much used in bed-
ding and as front lines to ribbon borders, etc.
[2671
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Pyrethmm roseum, used in the manufacture of insect pow-
ders, has rose-colored, single. Marguerite-like flowers which axe
exceedingly handsome. TTiere are also many varieties with
double flowers and tall erect stems, very usefid for cutting for
inside room decoration. Their cultivation is simple, any good
garden soil suiting them.
Propagation is effected by seeds sown a sixteenth of an inch
deep, in February, in a cold frame, or in March with a little
bottom heat; prick the seedlings out in boxes or sheltered bor-
ders until they are large enough to be placed in their permanent
quarters. Pyrethrum roseum and other tall-growing sorts may
also be increased by taking up the roots, dividing them into sec-
tions, replanting them one foot apart and top-dressing the sur-
face of the soil with old manure.
Reseda {Mignonette)
This universal, favorite, sweet-scented annual is one which
ought to be seen in every home garden. It will grow in any good
garden soil, but, if fine flower-stalks are expected, the soil can
scarcely be made too rich.
Propagate by seeds sown where they are to flower and cov-
ered to the depth of a quarter of an inch. February is a good
season for the sowing of the first crop, and another sowing should
be made in July; these two sowings will keep up a continual
supply of flowers during every month of the year, provided the
plants are not allowed to seed. In sowing, it is a good plan to
rake the ground finely and sow the seeds in drills about one foot
apart, the drills to be drawn the shape of the bed or patch
desired, whether circular, oval or other form. When the plants
are three inches high, thin them to one foot apart and mulch well
with old manure, giving water when required.
To those who have limited space, this little favorite will be
found very accommodating, as it does well even in a window-box
if given an Easterly or Northern exposure, requiring a good,
[ 268 ]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
rich, light soil and plenty of water, care being taken, however,
not to get the soil soggy or sour.
Rosa (Rose)
This important genus of highly ornamental flowering shrubs
is widely distributed over the Temperate Zone. It is divided
into many sections or groups, these again being divided into
numerous varieties. No one of our ornamental flowering plants
is more worthy of attention from cultivators or flower-lovers than
the Rose. It is weU named the Queen of Flowers, and is useful
and beautiful in the many positions it is called upon to adorn,
provided it is given fair treatment in the way of soil and cul-
tivation. Some of the groups will be found suitable for almost
any situation: — covering trellises or arbors, covering walls or
verandas, in mixed borders or as bedders. A number of the
stronger-growing species (such as the Ramblers, the Cherokees and
the Banksias) make grand effects when allowed to grow wildly
among the branches of a spreading oak or a tall pine, their
showers of white, red or yellow blossoms almost covering their
own leaves, as weU as those of the tree which gives them support.
The Rose is propagated by seeds, cuttings, layers and budding,
but by cuttings is without doubt the best system for increasing
the great majority of the finer varieties. Roses of nearly all
the varieties do weU on their own roots, and propagation by
cuttings may be carried on during the Summer and Autimm
months. The first batch should be put in as soon as the first
crop of flowers is over, and half-ripe wood is in condition, which
is generally as soon as the flowers drop from the young growth
and before the buds on the flowering shoots begin to swell. Cut-
tings of this wood make excellent material and should be about
six inches in length, if taken off with a heel so much the better.
The cuttings should be inserted in a cool, shaded border free
from draughts, in soil composed of half sand and half leaf-
mold. When making the cuttings in the Sunmier season, the
[269!
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
leaves should be carefully preserved. Plant the cuttings in rows
about twelve inches apart, and three inches apart in the row.
The tea-scented and most of the Japanese and Chinese spe-
cies and their varieties root well if the cuttings are taken in
September and inserted in prepared soil in a border facing the
North or in boxes eight or ten inches deep; the soil should be
of a light sandy nature, covered with about one-half inch of
pure sand and well-watered. After the cutting-bed has been
prepared and the soil watered, take off the cuttings and insert
them in the soil at once; then give a good watering to settle the
soil about the cuttings.
The Hybrid Perpetuals and other hardy sorts root well if
the cuttings, at the time of pruning, which is in November or
December, are put in nursery rows in the open ground; use the
previous year's wood in about eight-inch lengths, planting the
cuttings six inches deep and leaving about two buds above
ground; soil of a light sandy nature should be used in the cutting-
beds.
Propagation by budding is effected by taking a bud of the
variety to be propagated and budding it on the Manetti or some
other strong grower, selecting a time when both the stock and the
bud are in proper condition, that is when the bark lifts or parts
easily from the wood, which is generally in April or May, care
being taken that neither the stock nor the bud is bruised during
the operation.
Propagation by Seeds is resorted to only when it is desired
to raise new varieties. Sow the seeds to the depth of a quarter
of an inch, in January, in the open border in a sheltered spot in
well-prepared, light sandy loam. The seedlings will appear in
Spring or Sunmier. Should they come up too thickly, thin them
out to about one inch apart as soon as they are large enough to
be handled, and transplant the thinnings to where they can be
shaded till again established. The following Spring, as early as
the state of the ground will permit, take up the seedlings and
[270]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
plant them in nursery rows, cutting each of them back to one
or two inches; plant them six inches apart in rows one foot
apart. When the plants come into bloom, all those with poor
flowers should be discarded and the most promising preserved
till their true merits are thoroughly tested.
Propagation by layering is not much practised. It is best
performed in May or June. Cover the bend with sandy soil and
keep moist until rooted. When the layers are well-rooted, sever
them from the parent plant and plant them in a sheltered border
until a permanent position is prepared for them
To grow Roses well, a deep rich soil must be used. The
Hybrid Perpetuals require a strong, loamy soil, one and one-half
or two feet in depth, well drained. In places where good soil is
not found and rose-beds are to be formed, it will be necessary to
remove the natural soil and replace it with the loamy soil; when
this is done and the soil is satisfactory, it should be well. enriched
with old manure and the whole trenched to the depth of two feet ;
the operation should be carried out in the Fall. Before planting
the young Rose plants, about February, first dig the ground
over, breaking up all the big lumps or clods, then plant out the
young plants about three feet apart, selecting a time when the
soil is in good order and not wet or sticky. After planting, if
the soil is inclined to be dry, give a good watering and mulch the
ground with a top-dressing of two inches of half-rotten manure.
Climbing Roses of the Rambler and Banksia, as well as the
Cherokee types, also prefer a strong loam and plenty of manure.
The tea-scented, the everblooming, and the Chinese types seem
to do best and give their finest flowers in soil of a lighter nature,
a light sandy soil well-enriched with old manure suiting them
admirably.
During dry weather in Summer, while the Rose is making its
growth, it should receive a generous supply of water at the roots.
At no season should the roots of the plants be allowed to become
dry as this weakens the growth, and the young wood does not
[271]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
ripen firmly, while next season's growth starts feebly and the
flowers are poor and colorless.
The pruning of the different species varies according to the
habit of growth and the purpose for which they are used.
The Pillar Roses (those that are used in covering stumps of
old trees, trellises, etc.) which are generally strong growers
(under fair conditions, making an annual growth of from six
to twenty feet) must be treated differently in the way of prim-
ing from those which are naturally of a bushy, dwarf habit. The
Climber is grown for the purpose of covering large areas and to
give great showers of bloom, whereas the dwarf kinds are grown
mostly for their fine form or size, individually, or in clusters
of from three to six in a cluster. In pnming the Climbers, in
December or January, all that is necessary is to thin the shoots
of any weak or worn out or dead or surplus branches and shorten
the previous year's shoots by cutting off the soft or imripened
tips, on the other hand being careful not to thin too freely thus
exposing too much of the wall or trellises on which they are
trained.
The Hybrid Perpetuals, the Bourbons and the tea-scented
sections which are grown in beds or borders and are desired for
their individual flowers, should be pruned back in December or
January each year, leaving only from four to eight buds on each
shoot of the previous year's growth.
When the bushes are four or five years old, it will become
necessary to thin out some of the old stems, but only enough to
keep the middle of the bush from becoming crowded too much;
this admits light and air to each growth and encourages stronger
stems and finer flowers.
Should, as is very often the case, the plants show a tendency
to make weak, spindly growth, it is a good plan to take them up
in early Spring and either transplant them into new soil or trench
the ground over (enriching it with a plentiful supply of old
manure) and replant them after cutting them well back and
[272]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
trimming in the roots, pruning off any which are dead or
diseased.
The Rose is subject to several diseases, the worst of which
is Mildew; this should be attended to at once and not left until
all the leaves are attacked, but, as soon as the first speck of Mil-
dew is observed, the whole of the plant should be sprinkled with
a dusting of flowers of sulphur. The Rose-rust is another disease
which frequently attacks the leaves; it forms on the underside of
the leaves in red dots or small masses. As yet no cure has been
found for this disease, so as soon as a leaf is found with this rust
upon it, it should be picked off and not merely left on the ground
but should be burned up to prevent the disease from spreading
to other plants.
The Rose is also attacked by several species of Aphides, com-
monly called green or brown fly. These should be got rid of by
syringing with strong soap-suds in the evening and washing off
in the morning with the hose; this operation should be con-
tinued each evening until the fly is all cleaned off. A solution
of tobacco water is also effective, and sometimes dusting the
leaves with tobacco dust will have the desired effect.
When caterpillars infest the leaves, they generally coil them-
selves in the folds of the leaves. Press the affected leaves firmly
between the finger and the thumb, thus killing the caterpillar, or
the leaves can be picked off and burned.
Salpiglossis
This ornamental native of Chile is a general favorite in all
gardens on account of the odd coloring of its tube-shaped flowers.
It thrives best in a light rich soil where the plants should be one
foot apart.
Propagate by seeds sown in a gentle bottom heat in early
March; cover the seeds very lightly. Prigk them out three
inches apart into pots or boxes as soon as the seedlings are large
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GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
enough to be handled, keeping the young plants close and shaded
for a few days until they take root; gradually harden them oflF
by exposure to the open air, and plant them, where they are to
bloom, when they are from four to six inches high.
Salvia
This brilliant. Autumn-blooming, bedding plant is indispen-
sable where bright color effects are desired. The Salvias thrive
in a Ught sandy soil well-enriched with old manure and are kept
growing by generous supplies of water at the root.
Propagate the shrubby varieties by cuttings, in September or
October, inserted in sandy soil in a cool frame and kept shaded
during sunshine until rooted. Where the temperature falls to
the freezing point, the cuttings should be kept imder glass until
all danger from frost is over, when they may be planted where
they are to bloom. The. tuberous-rooted species (such as Salvia
patens) are propagated by cuttings taken from the young shoots
which start from the crown in early Spring; these should be
placed in a warm house or frame until rooted ; they may also be
increased by dividing the roots in Spring.
Saxtfraga
A large genus of hardy perennial herbs, very useful for plant-
ing in rockwork where they form beautiful and interesting effects.
Saxifraga pahnata, probably the largest-leafed species of the
genus, is a native of California, growing on the banks of our
streams and creeks; Saxifraga sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard), an
old favorite, is much used in hanging baskets or in forming
borders.
They thrive in any soil under ordinary care, and are easily
propagated by dividing the roots or by seeds sown in the open
ground in early Spring, the seeds being covered very lightly.
[274]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
SCABIOSA
This hardy perennial herb is of easy cultivation and grows in
any soil with little care, having the good quality of requiring
little water.
Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, where they are to
flower; cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch.
Thin the young plants to one foot apart when they are large
enough to be handled. They may also be increased by division
of the roots in February or March.
SiLENE {Catch-fly)
This genus comprises over two himdred species, only a few
of which are adapted to conditions in California. Among the
best may be named Silene pendula and Silene compacta; both
of these give fine effects in early Spring and thrive in any light
sandy soil.
Propagate by sowing the seeds, where they are to bloom, in
September or October. The seeds should be covered to the depth
of one-sixteenth oif an inch. Thin the seedlings, when two inches
high, to six or eight inches apart.
TROPiEOLUM {Nasturtium)
Highly ornamental climbers or twining plants, intro-
duced from South America. They are among the most useful of
our annual-flowering plants, requiring very little attention and
thriving in any soil. For quickly covering arbors or anything
which is unsightly, the tall-growing species are not easily sur-
passed. The dwarf bushy species are excellent for planting as a
groimdwork among shrubs, or for filling beds in semi-dry situ-
ations as they continue to bloom quite late in Summer if the
groxmd is well cultivated and mulched with a top dressing of
manure, leaf-mold or other loose fertilizing material.
Sow the seeds, one-quarter of an inch deep, where they are
wanted, at any season between the first rains and March in the
[275]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
frostless belt, and as soon as danger from frost is over in other
districts. Nasturtiums should not be sown in rich soU as in such
they grow too much to leaves and stems, flowering more profusely
if their growth is not too strong.
Tropffioium tuberosum, Tiopffiolum speciosum and other
tuberous-rooted species do not seem to take kindly to California,
although no good reason has yet been given for their failure;
being natives of Chile and the cooler districts of Peru, they ought
to do splendidly. They are all handsome climbers and no doubt
they will yet give good results when the proper conditions are
foimd for them.
Verbascum (Mullein)
A genus comprising over one hundred species of hardy bien-
nial herbs or subshrubs. Some of them are exceedingly handsome,
the stately spikes of brightly-colored flowers being very oma-
niental, especially when grown among shrubs. They thrive in
agy soil, all that is necessary being, in early Spring, to sow the
seeds, one-sixteenth of an inch deep, where wanted, and to thin
the young plants to one foot apart when they are two or three
inches high.
Verbena
A genus embracing eighty
species of hardy perennial herbs
or subshrubs, being among the
best of our bedding plants and
blooming continually for months
at a time. Their colors range
through all shades of purple and
blue, through reds and pinks to
the purest white. Their habit
is low and spreading, making
excellent ground-work for flow-
Verbena ering-plants with tall stems.
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HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
They are propagated by seeds sown in a gentle heat, in early
Spring, and covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch. When
the young plants are large enough to be handled, they should be
pricked off, three inches apart, in pots or boxes. Use soil composed
of one-quarter leaf-mold, one-half good friable loam and one-
quarter old well-rotted horse- or cow-manure with enough sand
to keep the whole free and open. Before planting out, place them
in the open air for a week or ten days to harden them; plant them
when from four to six inches high. They may also be increased
by cuttings late in the Fall, and again in Spring. All species of
Verbena like a good rich soil and a Uberal supply of water. They
should also be mulched around each plant with half-rotted manure
to encourage vigorous growth.
Viola (Pansy)
This popular plant is a favorite of rich and poor alike, every-
one, who has a garden, growing a few Pansies. This is deservedly
so, in view of its wonder-
ful variety of color and its
free-flowering habit to-
gether with the ease with
which it may be grown.
The Pansy delights in a
cool moist situation, and
generally gives its best flow-
ers in cool damp weather
in early Spring. As soon Pan«y.
as the hot dry weather com-
mences, the flowers become small, and the growth spindling and
weak. The soil for Pansies should be of good strong loam en-
riched with a generous addition of well-decompmsed cow- or
horse-manure.
Plant, in October, one foot apart, and give a good mulching
of old manure after planting; as the Pansy thrives best in a
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GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
moist cool soil, watering should not be neglected, and the soil
must be kept moist at all times; if the soil is allowed even once
to become dust-dry the crop for that season will be injured.
Propagate by seeds sown, to the depth of an eighth of an
inch, in a cool frame or lath-house and shaded from the sim by
the glass bemg covered with burlap or other shading material.
July is about the best season for sowing the seeds. This will
allow the grower to have strong bushy plants ready to be set out
by October first, or as soon as the Summer-blooming flowers are
over, when the Pansies may take the place of those finished
blooming, and occupy the ground through the Winter and early
Spring; along the cool coast counties a second sowing may, in
January or February, be made for Summer-flowering. As soon
as the young plants are large enough to be handled, they must
be pricked out in beds or boxes in hght, rich soil composed of
one-third good friable loam, one-third leaf-mold and one-third
equal quantities of sand and old manure, the whole being well
mixed together by being turned over several times. It is impor-
tant that the young plants be well rooted, and planted with a
good ball of earth adhering to the roots.
Varieties of Pansies are divided into three sections, viz.:
Selfs, White-grounds and Yellow-grounds.
Selfs are all of one color and are either black, maroon, white
or yellow. White-ground and Yellow-ground varieties are those
which have a large dark center, then a central ring of white or
yellow and an outer band of dark color.
The fancy division has the various colors and tints curiously
blotched, striped and edged. Still another section, though not
the true Pansy, is the Viola comuta, or horned-violet, which,
with its many showy self colors, makes an excellent bedding
plant during the Summer months.
1278]
HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS
Viola odorata ,{Violei)
This favorite, sweet-scented Winter and early-Spring flower
is grown by everyone who cultivates a garden whether in a
twenty-five foot lot or in grounds of many acres. In the cooler
portions of the State it thrives well in open, sunny situations,
while in the hotter and dryer sections it grows best in shaded
spots or in a situation facing the North. The Violet prefers soil
of a light loamy nature well-enriched with plenty of old manure.
Propagation is by nmners taken off the old plants about the
first of March. After the groxmd is spaded and leveled, it should
be raked fine and the young shoots planted from six to twelve
inches apart, the strong growers (such as the CaUfomia, Prin-
cess of Wales, etc.) twelve inches apart, and the Neapolitan,
Marie Louise, etc., six inches apart. Should the weather be dry,
the yoimg plants should be given a thorough watering; about the
beginning of June give the surface of the ground a mulching of
old manure an inch deep, and water frequently, not allowing the
ground to get dry at any time during the growing season.
The operation of replanting should be attended to each
Spring as the old plants get worn out and weak if left in the
same ground two or more years.
Zinnia
The Zinnia, a native of Mexico, is one of the favorite flower-
ing annuals, growing easily and being much used in the decora-
tion of the flower-border and also for bedding. It thrives best
in a deep rich soil and a simny situation.
Sow the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, in a warm green-
house or frame in early March, or in the open border in April.
When they are two inches high, prick off the young seedlings
four inches apart, in boxes, if they have been raised under glass,
or, if sown where they are to bloom, thin them out to one foot
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GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
apart. About the first of June top-dress the surface of the
ground with old manure and give abundance of water during the
growing season. If mulching is objected to, keep the soil hoed
after each watering, to prevent it from baking and cracking. The
Zinnias, from the time the yoxmg plants germinate, should be
kept growing freely; at no time should they be allowed a check
either from poor soil or from want of water, as the least check to
their growth causes them to throw poor small flowers, and they
never seem to do well afterwards.
[280]
PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER GARDEN
CHAPTER XV
PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER GARDEN
HERE grounds have the required space, water
eflFects should be introduced, nothing in nature
being more brilliant in its effects than water,
whether in motion, tumbling in creek-form, which
perhaps is the most striking of all, or in repose in
pond or lake.
The size or extent of the body of water should of course be
in proportion to the extent of the unproved grounds. A glimpse
of a river or creek in the background gives a wonderfully grand
finish to an ideal landscape, while a modest water-eflFect in pond-
shape adds a charm to the smaller garden or grounds such as
nothing else can possibly give.
In very few places are fine water-eflFects more appreciated
than in the middle and southerly counties of California. This
is accounted for by the great lack of rain during several months
of the ordinary year, say from April to October, when the whole
State from Butte to San Diego is dry, brown and dusty, and,
consequently, the pleasure from the prospect of a gushing foun-
tain or a running creek or river is greatly enhanced, such a water-
eflfect, in fact, being a positive relief to the eye. Every village
and hamlet should have its foimtain-basin, as well as its drinking-
place for horses and dogs, filled with clear water, for practical
use and as a pleasing and effective ornament.
Before making an artificial pond, first decide upon the site,
the size, the shape which it may assume, the depth of water and
the mode of construction. The proportion of water-effect in the
garden-plan should be, as nearly as possible, one in ten; for
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GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
example, in a garden of four acres, from one-quarter to one-half
an acre should be water.
It is hardly necessary to say that all these details as to the
pond should first be carefully planned on paper, to scale. If
the garden is laid out in the natural style, the outline of the
water-surface should assume an irregular shape with deep bays
and promontories, not only for the purpose of giving variety to
the outline but also in order to have the opportunity of placing
plants of different character in the locations best adapted to their
requirements and habits, for some plants give better effects when
planted on a bold point projecting into the water-line than when
planted in a hollow or at the head of a bay, while others, which
are low-growing, give much better results when planted close to
the water and along the margin of a bay shore.
In laying out a piece of water, there should be no straight or
regular lines, that is, no point of land should be exactly a dupli-
cate of any other point on the same pond, nor should there be
a repetition of the shape of any of the bays or indentations along
the shore line.
After staking out the shore line, next clear the ground of any
brush, stumps or rough weeds, and excavate to the required depth
which should be at least three feet in the deepest part, gradually
getting more shallow as the shore-line is approached. If the soil
thus excavated is of good quality it will be of value for dressing
any poorer ground in the neighborhood.
After the excavation work is done, smooth and level the
entire surface of the bottom and sides. Should the soil be of a
loamy, rocky or sandy nature or at all porous, puddling-clay of
a total thickness of six inches must be laid evenly over the entire
surface, this being spread in two layers, first one of four inches
thick and then a finishing coat of two inches. The clay for the
puddling should be free from all rock and should contain not
more than twenty-five per cent of sand. After the first layer of
four inches has been spread, the next operation is to break the
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PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER GARDEN
clay up with picks and hammers imtil all lumps are broken, when
a good soaking with water must be given. Then with a tamper
not greater than one and one-half inches in diameter at the lower
end, give the whole mass a thorough tamping until it is of the
consistency of putty as used for glass setting. After the first
layer has been puddled into shape and tamped firm and smooth,
spread and treat the second layer in the same manner, finishing
it with a flat tamper about six inches square at the lower end.
This will give the whole a perfectly smooth finish.
On the surface of the clay, it is well to spread a layer, one
inch thick, of screened rock (say of about one-half inch in size)
to protect the clay from being disturbed by washing or by poles
or rods being driven through the clay-bed thus making holes
through which the water would escape.
Where the pond is small, a thin layer of concrete should be
spread on top of the rock, as it makes the work of cleaning away
sediment or dirt much easier.
In addition to the overflow pipe, there should be, for con-
venience in cleaning out the pond, a pipe of at least six inches
in diameter, placed in the bottom at the lowest spot of the pond,
on the inner end of which pipe a strainer should be screwed to
keep leaves or other litter from entering and thus choking the
pipe. Of course drainage pipes are useful only where suflScient
fall can be had in the groimd adjoining the lake. Where a
sufficient fall cannot be had, drainage pipes will not be of any
use and should not be put in.
Where the groimds are laid out in a formal manner, the pond
should also be made formal in shape, either circular, like some
foimtain-basins, with granite or concrete copings, or octagonal,
or of some other architectural design in keeping with the
surroundings.
When the lake or pond is ready for the water, the next study
is what plants, if any, should adorn the surface of the water and
how they should be arranged. Before turning in the water, and
[285]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
where it is decided to plant Water Lilies, it is well to have basins
constructed for holding the amount of soil necessary for growing
these very interesting and beautiful flowers. These soil-boxes
or basins should be made, if possible, of brick or concrete and
should be about fifteen inches deep and four feet square. Fill
them with soil composed of one-half rich surface loam and one-
half old well-decomposed cow- or horse-manure, the loam and the
manure having been first thoroughly mixed together, a month or
so before being used, by being turned over several times. Fill the
boxes to within two inches of the top and top-dress with one
inch of coarse gravel.
After setting out the Water Lilies (which should be in eariy
March) and as soon as the roots are planted, turn in the water
and fill the pond imtil the water covers the boxes three inches,
keeping the water at that level until the plants begin to throw up
their young leaves when the pond may be filled to the surface
or the level designed.
The planting of the margin should now also be attended to,
the semi-aquatics such as the Japanese Iris, the Papyrus anti-
quorum and the Calla being set out nearest the water or where the
water is not more than a few inches deep. On the promontories
may be planted Bamboos, Arundos, Birches, Willows, Pampas
grass, Eulalias, and, where the grounds are very large, the Swamp
Cypress of Louisiana (Taxodium distichum).
In planting out the Water Lilies, place the Nelumbiums in
the largest basins and the smaller-growing Nymphaeas in the
basins nearer the edges.
The Nymphaea odorata, a native of the Eastern States, will
be found one of the best for general planting, having beautiful
pure-white flowers of delicious fragrance. There are several
varieties of this lovely species, including Nymphaea Carolinensis
with petals of delicate pink, a good grower with large flowers.
Another charming variety is Nymphaea exquisita, a moderate
grower with rose-colored flowers, while Nymphaea sulphurea,
[286]
PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER GARDEN
with yellow flowers, is one of the very best for cultivation in our
ponds, its flowers being large and standing up clear of the water
from six to eight inches and its leaves being beautifully mottled
with chestnut-colored spots,
Nymphjea tuberosa, a native of the Western States, has a
beautiful flower pure-white and sometimes as large as nine inches
across. This species should be planted where the water is from
four to five feet deep, and its roots should be kept from mixing
Small Lake Bordered with Willow and Pine.
[287]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
with the smaller growers, otherwise it will starve them out and
choke them. There is a rose-colored variety of this species which
is identical Vith the original excepting in the color of the
flowers.
Nymphaea alba and its varieties are also very desirable, all
having beautiful flowers and handsome leaves, among the best
being Nymphaea candidissima with pure-white flowers of large
size standing clear of the water. Nymphaea fulgens, as its name
implies, is a brilliant crimson with flowers beautifully cupped;
this variety should be in every collection. Nymphaea rosea is
another charming variety with flowers varying in color from
pink to purple.
Then there are the Marliacea Hybrids most of them bearing
large flowers in many shades of color, some pink, some red and
some yellow, while others have stamens of a different color from
the petals making effective combinations.
Nymphaea caerulea, a distinct species with blue flowers and
yellow stamens, ought to be in every collection.
Nymphaea Zanzibarensis (the Royal Purple Lily) is without
doubt one of the finest of the Water Lily family, being a strong
grower and a free bloomer with rich purple stamens and petals
of intense blue, and having a very sweet odor. The foliage is a
rich green, the under-side being purple. This species has a rose-
colored variety, which, on account of its color, is also very
desirable.
Nymphaea Devoniensis and its varieties are another class
which add much to the attractiveness of the water-garden as
they are night-flowering. They are very vigorous growers and
free-bloomers, the flowers, under good cultivation, growing
sometimes to a size of twelve inches across; they are of a bright
rosy red and are borne on stems well above the water.
Nymphaea lotus, from Egypt, is a beautiful white-flowering
species also blooming in the night.
Nymphaea dentata, another white-flowered species, is one of
[288]
Pond with LiUes.
PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER GARDEN
the best and largest of the night-flowering varieties; it has ser-
rated leaves of deep green.
Victoria Regia, one of the most remarkable productions of
the vegetable kingdom, is a native of tropical South America. It
bears leaves from five to seven feet in diameter with a vertical
rim from three to six inches high. Its dehciously fragrant flowers
measure from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter and open about
five o'clock in the evening, dosing the following morning about
nine o'clock, reopening about five or six o'clock the same after-
noon and closing, for good, the morning of the second day. The
first time the flowers open they are white slightly tinted with
pink, the second time they open they are of a rosy pink. To
grow well, this species or any of its varieties must have a simny,
sheltered situation, and the water must be kept at a temperature
of about eighty degrees Fahrenheit, which of course necessitates
artificial heat, this being produced by hot water pipes running
through the tank or pond in which the Victoria is to be grown.
Nelumbium speciosum (Egyptian Lotus) is one of the best
of the species, being a vigorous grower and a free bloomer with
flowers of rosy pink.
Nelumbium luteum (the American lotus) is not quite so
strong-growing as the Egyptian species, but, on account of its
color, should be in every collection; its flowers are pale yellow.
There is also a white-flowered, strong-growing species named
Nelumbium album grandiflorum, whose white flowers make it
very desirable, as they contrast well with the pink flowers of the
Egyptian.
The Nelumbiums all like a well-sheltered situation and plenty
of space to show to advantage.
Propagate by seeds sown, in February, in pots filled with
light sandy soil, the seeds being covered about one-quarter of an
inch deep; submerge the pots, covering them to the depth of
about three inches and keeping the water at a temperature of
about seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit. When the seedlings have
[291]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
made two or three leaves, pot them singly in three-inch pots,
using a slightly richer soil than was reconunended for the seed
pots; as soon as they have filled the pots with roots, give them
larger pots; plant out the hardier Sfiecies, such as Nymphaea
alba or Nymphfea odorata in April, and the Nelumbiums a
month later.
Propagation may also be effected by division of the roots or
rhizomes, in early Spring before growth commences; plant at
once where they are to bloom.
Babylonian Willow.
[292 I
PARLOR GARDENING
CHAPTER XVI
PARLOR GARDENING
I HIS chapter treats of various kinds of vase-plants
suitable for halls and apartments, and how to grow
them.
In order to be successful in growing plants in the
halls or ordinary rooms of the dwelling-house, we
must select those accustomed naturally to the strong heat of
tropical and semi-tropical regions, as they stand the dry and
dusty air of a living room with a temperature varying from fifty
to seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit.
It should perhaps first be stated that if the plants are in-
tended to be kept close to the glass of the windows and exposed to
the Southerly sun, a class will have to be selected different from
those which can be grown successfully if placed either in the
middle or toward the side of the room where they will be par-
tially shaded.
Among the latter class, that is, those which thrive well in the
middle or side of the room, and, while enjoying the light, are
injured by the direct rays of the sun shining through glass, may
be mentioned that best of all parlor vase-plants, Kentia Belmo-
riana, the ideal condition and exposure for this plant being in
a room facing the West, the pot being placed on a level with the
window-sill about three feet from the glass. The window-shade
should be kept up all day until the sun gets round, when it
should immediately be pulled down and left down until the sun
leaves the window, at which time it should again be raised.
Among other plants which do well in similar conditions
and with similar treatment may be mentioned the Rubber
[293]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Plant (Ficus elastica), Dracaena Terminalis, Pandanus utilis,
DieflFenbachias and Alocasias, also some of the stronger-growing
Marantas, such as Maranta zebrina, Maranta bicolor and Cal-
adium esculentum.
Bamboos make most effective hall plants when well grown.
They also stand shade well. Another favorite which thrives
imder all conditions is the Aspidistra lurida, and mention should
be made of the Aspidistra lurida variegata, whose broad sword-
shaped leaves have a fine effect either in a hall or a sitting room.
The Cocos plumosa, Seaforthia, Corypha australis, Latania
borbonica, Areca lutescens, and Areca Baurii, also Raphis fla-
belliformis (the Japanese cane palm) are all satisfactory in the
decorating of apartments.
In a general way it may be stated that most of the plants
which carry thick, leathery, smooth foliage are satisfactory and
are easily grown, whereas most of the plants which have thin,
transparent foliage, or those of hairy, downy or russety texture
do poorly. The dust sticks to the fibres of the thin leaves and
to the rough surface of those which have a downy or hairy tex-
ture, and, as this dust cannot be washed or sponged off, the pores
get choked up and the leaves turn yellow on accoimt of their
limgs being clogged, so that imless taken where the air is free
from dust the plants will sicken and die.
Among window plants which stand a little sun and, as a
rule, thrive well, may be mentioned the shrubby Begonias, Ger-
aniums, Petimias and Nasturtiiuns. Few of the Fern family are
happy in the dry air of our apartments, although some of those
with leathery, smooth foliage do well for a time. The Boston
Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata), Pteris cretica and Pteris argyraea
are among the best for this purpose. For shady nooks or verandas
many Ferns do extremely well, the Five-finger Fern and the
Woodwardia making excellent growth.
[294]
THE WINDOW BOX
CHAPTER XVn
THE WINDOW BOX
[GREAT many people, especially of those residing in
large cities, have neither the room to grow well,
nor perhaps the money to spare for the purchase of
expensive palms or vases for the decoration of their
sitting-rooms. But all have a window and a win-
dow-sill where a surprising number of different kinds of handsome
foliage and flowering plants may be grown well. Even if the
window-sill be no wider than six inches, a very good window
effect may be had, and nothing adds more to the appearance of a
building than a few window boxes.
The window box should not be narrower than six inches, with
a depth of about eight inches, and should be as long as the width
of the window. After the box is made, bore holes about one
inch in diameter and about five or six inches apart in the bottom
of the box; over each hole place a flat piece of broken pot or
a flat stone; without disturbing these flat stones, put into the
box an inch of gravel or broken pot-sherds, and, over this, a layer
of moss to keep the soil from mixing with the drainage material ;
then fill the box to within one inch of the top with soil composed
of one-half good surface loam, one-quarter leaf-mold and one-
quarter sharp, clean sand together with a sprinkling of old manure
well-rotted, the whole having been turned over and mixed
together several times before being used. In this soil set out
the plants selected for the window box.
Among window plants which generally succeed well, Ivy
Geraniums of various colors may safely be depended upon, as
they stand rough treatment and grow well in any exposure.
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GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Where the window faces East or North, the common Fuchsia
does splendidly; the Nasturtium and the Mesembryanthemum
also give fine results, while the Pelargonium zonale and the
common scarlet Geranium can always be counted upon to flourish.
Blue Lobelias, Heliotrope, Mignonette, Sweet Peas, the dwarf
Campanulas and the Tuberous Begonias, when placed in a window
facing East, will give gorgeous masses of color. Many of the
dwarf Cactus, etc., also do well if given a Southern exposure.
In Spring, fine effects may be had if boxes are filled with
Pansies, Violets, Hyacinths, Tulips, Daffodils and other Spring-
flowering bulbs.
Great care should always be exercised in regard to the water-
ing of the plants; see that the soil is kept moist but not too wet.
When watering, give enough water to thoroughly wet the soil
but do not give any more until the soil shows signs of being dr>'
at least one-half inch from the surface.
The window box should be overhauled once a year, the best
time being in Spring just before growth commences. All of the
plants should be taken out of the box, and fresh soil as well as
clear drainage material put in, preferably young plants being set
in the box.
When it is desirable to have a more continuous color effect
than is possible with Simimer and Fall-flowering plants only, it
is well to have a double set of boxes, one set for the Sununer and
Autumn decorations and another set for the growing of plants
which make an attractive showing in Winter and early Spring.
Some of the popular Summer and Fall-flowering plants have
already been described. Prepare the W^inter and Spring boxes
as suggested for the other plants and fill them with the same class
of soil. Secure as early in the Fall as possible (say October ist
to 25th) a collection of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and other
bulbs, and plant them about six inches apart in the boxes. The
box in which the Hyacinths are planted should be set out of doors
in a position facing North, given a good soaking of water, and
[296]
THE WINDOW BOX
covered with sand to the depth (over the top of the box) of six
inches. Allow them to remain in this position until they have
made a growth of from four to five inches, then carefully remove
the sand from the top of the box and gradually expose the
blanched leaves to light and air; as soon as the leaves assume
their natural green color the box may be placed in the window.
Window BOKt.
I297I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Tulips and Narcissus require the same treatment, excepting that
only three inches of sand, instead of six inches, will be required
to cover them.
Pansies and Viola comuta as well as Forget-me-not make
exceUent subjects for Winter and Spring-flowering window
boxes. Sow the seeds of Pansies and also Forget-me-not in early
July and plant them three inches apart in boxes as soon as they
have made from four to six leaves. About November first they
will be ready to be planted six inches apart in the window boxes.
The Viola comuta seeds should be sown early in June and grown
on as suggested for the treatment of the Pansy and Forget-me-not.
Another charming Winter and early Spring- flowering plant
suitable for decorating the window is the modest little Silene
(catchfly) ; sow in July and grow as recommended for the Pansy.
It may be stated that the dimensions of the box given here
are for the narrowest window-sill; should the window-sill be
twelve inches or more in width, much better results may be
expected both in the health of the plants and the greater number
of plants which may be grown.
Should insects attack any of the plants, sponge the leaves with
soap-suds, and, the following morning, sprinkle them with clear
water. Keep the foliage clear of dust by syringing or spraying
the leaves with clear, soft water. This will greatly encourage
growth and assist in keeping the plants in good health.
[298]
THE AMATEUR^S CONSERVATORY
CHAPTER XVIII
THE amateur's CONSERVATORY
GREAT deal of pleasure without a large outlay of
expense can be derived from a small Conservatory
or even a Plant-room attached to the dwelling-
house. In a small Conservatory, the first requi-
site is perfect command of the ventilation, and
the next, perfect command of the light by having the sides,
which are exposed to the sun, provided with spring blinds or
shades so that in clear, dry weather the direct rays of the sim
may be kept off the foliage, for otherwise, the foliage is apt to
become scorched and blistered. Besides, when the air of the Con-
servatory gets too hot and dry, it takes away from the leaves that
lively, fresh finish which is so much of the beauty of the plant
carrying perfect leaves.
We build a Conservatory to enable us to enjoy the vegetation
of the tropics or of countries with warmer climates than our
own. . Let us then fill the Conservatory with plants which cannot
be successfully cultivated in the open air, and not with Roses,
Carnations, Geraniums, etc.
The plants best suited for Conservatories are the finer Palms
and Dracaenas, the finer Ferns such as the Adiantiun, the Daval-
lia, Asplenium, the tropical Gymnogramma and many others
which are easily grown in a temperature between fifty-five and
eighty degrees Fahrenheit, provided they are sheltered from the
direct rays of the sun, are given a moist atmosphere and are not
subjected to cold draughts of air blowing through the plant
house.
Special care must be given to preparing the soil for Palms.
Most of the Palm family enjoy a good, strong soil, one com-
[299]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
posed of one-half good yellow surface loam, one quarter well-
rotted horse-manure, and one-quarter well-decomposed leaf-
mold, with a sprinkling of good sharp sand, suiting them well.
A soil composed of these parts should be turned over several
times, so as to insure that all are well-mixed together.
Before potting, the pots must be thoroughly clean and dr\-.
If the pots are new, they must be well soaked in water (being left
in the water sufficiently long to get saturated) and then allowed
to dry before being used. When a new pot is not soaked before
being used, it frequently happens that the first few waterings,
instead of being beneficial to the plant, only serve to soak the
pot, while the ball of soil, which the pot contains, becomes so
dry that it is a difficult matter to again get it into a satisfactor\*,
moist condition.
One of the most common errors of amateur gardeners is to put
their plants into pots which are too large. A pot which will
hold all the roots, leaving one-half of an inch of fresh soil around
Interior of Greenhouse.
[300 I
THE AMATEUR^S CONSERVATORY
the old ball, is quite large enough for a change of pot; for example,
if a plant growing in a four-inch pot should require a change,
it should have the ball of earth reduced so that it may be re-
potted in one which is five inches in diameter. Over-potting
should be guarded against, as if a Palm or a Fern is given a pot
which is too large, a little over-watering sours the soil and kills
the roots.
In taking a plant out of a pot to put it into a larger one, the
pot, in which the plant is, should be turned upside down and the
edge of the pot tapped gently so as to start the ball of soil. All
the drainage material must be taken from the bottom of the
ball. The roots must be carefully examined, and, if they are not in
good health and condition, must be cut, with a knife, back into
sound wood: any loose soil should be removed, and then the plant
can be repotted in a pot a size larger than it formerly occupied.
This, of course, is provided the roots are in good condition, as if
they are not so, the plant should be repotted in a pot the same
size as formerly, and should be kept in that size of pot until the
plant forms fresh roots, when it should be repotted in one a size
larger.
The question as to what size of pot should be used for a plant
is one which is often asked. This depends not only upon the size
of the plant, but also upon what kind of plant it is; for example,
whether it is a plant which is a fast, strong grower, or one of
slow growth; whether its roots are soft and fleshy, or whether
they are of a fine, hair-like texture, etc., etc. Palms, for instance,
which carry six leaves, three feet in length, will do better and
will be more easily kept in a healthy-growing condition if potted
in good soil in a seven-inch pot than if in one which is much
larger.
See Chapter XXII, "The Calendar of Operations," for sug-
gestions and detailed instructions as to the work in the Green-
house or Conservatory, month by month, throughout the year.
[301]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
CHAPTER XIX
TREATMENT OF THE COMMON 'ISEASES OF, AND INSECTS
INJURIOUS 10 PLANTS
ISEASES of plants are many and varied, some
being the result of attacks of injurious insects,
while others are caused by fungus growth
which comes from improper nutrition and
poor circulation or from very sudden atmos-
pheric changes:— for example, from warm, balmy weather
which encourages rapid growth, to cold, harsh winds which
seem to chill the whole plant while checking its growth. The
plant in these conditions suffers particularly from the fact that,
on account of the soil being warm, the roots continue sending
up supplies of sap of greater quantity than the leaves and soft
stems (being so chilled and semi-paralyzed by the cold air) are
able to assimilate, and thus there is caused a choking of the sap-
vessels which greatly weakens the plant, so that it gets into a con-
dition susceptible to an attack by any disease. Unless the weather
moderates so that the plant can again make vigorous growth and
throw off the attack, it may suffer severely and take weeks and
sometimes even months to recover.
The most common of the fungus diseases is undoubtedly the
Powdery Mildew which attacks leaves, stems, flowers and fruits.
It appears like a thin white powder at first over the leaves, after-
wards spreading to the stems, stopping at once and entirely the
further growth of the part attacked. It is propagated by spores
which increase with amazing rapidity, often dwarfing and some-
times killing outright the whole plant. There are several kinds
of Mildew including the Rose Mildew, the Grape Vine Mildew,
[302]
DISEASES AND INJURIOUS INSECTS
the Hop Mildew, the Pear Mildew, etc. All varieties of Mildew
may be checked by dusting flowers of sulphur over the affected
and the adjoining parts of the plant.
As soon as the least speck of Mildew is noticed on any part of
the plant, the affected part should at once be given a good dusting,
and this work should not be delayed an hour longer than is neces-
sary, otherwise serious damage will be the result: — ^for example,
if the plant attacked is a Rose, the Mildew, if not checked, wiD
ruin the crop of flowers.
Bordeaux Mixture is also a good cure for Mildew, and may
be used if sulphur should fail. It should be applied in the same
manner as sulphur.
A sulphur bellows made especially for use in this work may
be procured from any seedsman at little cost, and it will be found
that the use of the beUows economizes the sulphur.
Green Flies (Aphides), sometimes called Plant Lice, are very
destructive to the yoimg shoots and foliage of plants, especially
Roses on which they congregate in large numbers and send their
long sharp feelers into the bark and leaves, sucking the juice
from the plants. As they multiply with astonishing rapidity,
they, if not destroyed, will eventually cause the destruction
of the parts affected, and this in a very short time.
The best remedies for successfully getting rid of these pests
are Tobacco and Whale-oil Soap ; even common soap-suds, when
not too strongly impregnated with soda or chloride of lime, will
be found effective for this purpose if the foliage is syringed
freely in the evening and sprayed with clear water through the
hose the foDowing morning. This should be done three consecu-
tive evenings.
To apply the tobacco, one pound of the common tobacco-
leaf should be first soaked in six gallons of hot water to which
should be added one-half pound of soft black or whale-oil soap.
These should be mixed together by the syringe, and the plant
should be thoroughly syringed with the liquid in the evenings
[303]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
and washed by the hose with clear water early the following
mornings.
Sometimes it is not desirable to use tobacco in liquid form.
In that case the leaves can be dusted freely with tobacco dust
which should be left on the foliage for about forty-eight hours,
and then washed off with the hose. Should the first application
be not effective, a second or even a third application can be made
until all the flies are cleared off.
Several prepared mixtures are sold by seedsmen, such as Gis-
hurst's Compound, Fir-tree oil, etc., which, if applied as directed
on the labels, will be found effective. Often water used freelv
with the hose under good pressure will clean them off if applied
before the flies have got too strong a hold on the plant.
There are other kinds of Aphides some of which are black and
attack Cherry and other fruit trees, but they generally yield to
the same treatment.
When the Aphides attack plants in a green-house, fumigation
with tobacco stems will be found the best remedy. A close, dull
evening should be selected and the foliage of the plants should be
perfectly dry.
To effectively fumigate a green-house it is necessary to get
an iron pot into which should be put a few pieces of lighted char-
coal, on which should be spread a few tobacco stems. On top of
the tobacco a layer of damp moss should be placed, and the house
should be densely filled with the smoke, care being taken that no
flame arises in the burning. The house must be kept perfectly
closed for twelve hours. Then the ventilator should be opened
and the plants syringed freely with clean, tepid water. Should
the first smoking not be effective, the operation can be repeated
a second evening in the same manner, and, when the fly has had
a long hold on the plants, it may be necessary to fumigate even
a third time.
A pest which is responsible for a great many of our worst
failures in plant cultivation is Thrips, as it attacks some of our
[304]
DISEASES AND INJURIOUS INSECTS
most deKcate and most finely leaved plants, and, from the fact
that this insect is so very small, it is generally not noticed until
considerable damage has been done.
It feeds only on the juices and fleshy parts of the leaves, leav-
ing the fibrous parts untouched, this giving the plant a withered,
blighted appearance.
This insect may be recognized by its narrow, black or brown
body, and its four straight narrow wings which are fringed with
hairs in saw-like edges. There are several varieties, but as they
are all equally destructive and yield to the same treatment, it is
unnecessary to further refer to their identification. When the
pest is found to be infesting a green-house, the fumigating treat-
ment as recommended for Aphides produces satisfactory results.
When the insect is foimd on shrubs out of doors, the plants should
be well syringed with, tobacco water, care also being taken to see
that the plants are well watered at the roots, this watering giving
additional vigor to the plants which will tend to render the Thrip
attack harmless.
The Red Spider is a small eight-legged mite which receives
its name from its color (always of a rusty red). It has the spider
habit of spinning a fine web, generally on the imder side of the
leaves of trees. It is so small that it is almost invisible to the
naked eye.
When Red Spiders establish themselves on a plant, they spin
webs of very fine texture on the under side of the leaves. Then
by means of their suckers they bore into the leaves and suck out
the juice or sap. The leaf becomes yellow and covered with
spots, ultimately dies and drops prematurely. Sometimes an
attack of this pest strips the tree months before the usual time ;
if a fruit tree, the crop for the year fails, and besides, the branches
formed for the following year are stunted and immature.
The Red Spider seldom attacks plants in a good healthy con-
dition, imless they suffer from drought. Hence any measures
which encourage vigorous growth, such as plenty of watei^at the
[305I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
roots, frequent hosing overhead, mulching the ground around the
plants with manure and freely cultivating the soil, diminish the
effects of the attack to a great extent.
When a plant is attacked by Red Spiders, equal parts of std-
phur and coal-soot should be mixed and dusted freely over the
entire plant, or one pound of sulphur-dust with two pounds of
soot should be put into six gallons of water and syringed over the
plant attacked. If this pest gets into a green-house, the hot water
pipe should be painted with a paste made of sulphur and quick-
lime in equal parts, If the green-house is heated, the leaves should
be dusted with sulphur and soot as recommended for out of door
plants, while the atmosphere of the green-house should be kept
in a moist condition, and, if these suggestions are followed and
careful attention is given to the watering of the roots, the Red
Spider will not make much headway.
Caterpillars are of various kinds, some species attacking only
Oaks, while others confine their operations to the leaves of the
Rose, and still others are found only on the Hawthorn or Cab-
bage, etc. Those which live in webs, such as the common Oak
tree caterpillar, can easily be cut off and destroyed by waiting
until evening when they invariably return home after feeding
on the Oak leaves aU day. The branch on which they have woven
their webby home should be cut off, and the caterpillars cian then
be crushed or piled up and set fire to. In the case of those whose
nests are too high to be reached by hand, the branch can be cut
with long-handled shears and the caterpillars can be destroyed
as just suggested, or, if preferred, an oiled rag can be tied to a
long pole and lit, and the web of the nest of caterpillars touched
with the lighted rag, their home thus being destroyed and the
whole colony killed. No attempt should be made to destroy them
in the middle of the day, as they are at that time feeding all over
the tree, and any which are overlooked will immediately com-
mence building a new nest, and consequently multiply the nimiber
of nests to be destroyed.
[306I
DISEASES AND INJURIOUS INSECTS
The common Rose caterpillar is easily got rid of by hand-
picking or by dusting with Paris green.
Slugs are about the commonest pest, and these destructive
nuisances are weU known to all garden owners. They seem par-
tial to soft-wooded plants of low growth, hiding under the leaves
which touch the ground, and feeding on the undergrowth and
flower stalks, seeming to take delight in eating holes into or pieces
out of the leaves and flower-stems, thus ruining many promising
flower-beds.
Among the most effective remedies are baits of cabbage and
lettuce leaves laid near the plants which need protection. These
traps should be set in the evening and examined the next morn-
ing; the slugs should be shaken off and covered with lime, salt
or wood ashes. All of these applications should be repeated at
least once, as the slugs seem to have strength enough to crawl off
with one coat of the dust and to throw it off with a coat of slime,
but the second application invariably kills them. Frequent dust-
ing of the groimd immediately around where the plants are
troubled has a great tendency to drive off the slugs. A little dust-
ing of lime close to the neck of favorite plants is also a good cure
and a better preventive. A dressing of soot is a very good fer-
tilizer and a good protection against all the varieties of slugs
and snails.
The Scale insects are among the most dangerous and trouble-
some of injurious insects, a single female raising from two hun-
dred to five hundred at a single brood. They are said to hatch
four or five generations a year. For the clearing of nursery stock,
hydrocyanic acid gas is frequently used by fiunigating, but, as
it is necessary to have the use of a tent in doing this, it is not
always convenient for the amateur, and, imless the operation is
very carefully carried out, damage to the plant may result.
A favorite remedy for the common black or brown scale is a
strong mixture of tobacco and whale-oil soap, the soap suffocating
them by closing the breathing pores along the sides of their bodies.
[ 307 1
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Use about one-quarter pound of the soap and two oiinces of
extract of tobacco to a gallon of water and syringe the plants
about three times a week, syringing with clear water the day fol-
lowing the application of the mixture; continue the spraying
xmtil all of the scale are washed off.
Canary Islands Date-palm.
[308]
EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
CHAPTER XX
A FEW EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
[N WRITING this book, it has been at times
convenient to apply terms commonly in use by
professional gardeners.
As the exact significance of some of these
may not be known to all readers, it has been
thought that the following explanations and directions may be
of service.
MULCHING AND TOP DRESSING
As stated in Chapter VI, mulching is the best means of pre-
serving a steady degree of moisture in the soil and of keeping it
at an even temperature. It also prevents the soil from cracking
and proves beneficial on account of its substance being washed
into the soil by rains or artificial waterings; in fact, there is no
practice more beneficial to newly planted trees or plants, of almost
any kind, than a good mulching, especially in a climate like ours.
It saves much labor in watering, and, as has just been stated, is
the best means of preserving a uniform degree of moisture in the
soil surrounding the root. This is emphasized by repetition, as it
is a most important point and, other things being equal, plants
will languish or thrive just in proportion as this condition is
secured.
Although mulching is apparently a very simple operation, it
must be carefully done. Before mulching a newly planted tree,
the soil should be shaped in the form of a basin, the rim of which
is extended one foot beyond the extremity of the roots. The rim
should be three or four inches higher than the bottom of the basin
so that rain or water applied artificially will be retained. The
[309]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
mulch should be kept at least three inches away from the stem
of the tree.
The best mulch for trees is half-decomposed stable-manure,
which should be spread about three inches thick and levelled
evenly; about half an inch of soil should be spread over the
manure to keep it from shifting in event of heavy wind. Where
stable-manure cannot be had, half-rotted tree-leaves, short grass
cuttings and even tan-bark are suitable.
The practise of mulching may be carried into the flower-beds,
as well as to the trees and shrubs. The writer has personally
found the mulching of flowering plants to be of great value. The
soil is not compressed by water nor baked into a crust by the
sun; evaporation is arrested and the growth materially in-
creased.
In mulching flowering plants the material to be used should
be weU-rotted stable-manure or thoroughly decomposed leaf-coil
and should not be spread more thickly on the surface than one-
half inch.
The mulching of lawns should be also very carefully done.
Owing to the continuous, heavy, artificial watering necessary in
our dry climate, mulching is of great benefit both in preserving
the health and vigor of the grass and in preventing evaporation.
July is the best month for doing this. After about two months
of watering with the hose or sprinkler, the soil will be found to
have become hard and washed looking while the small roots of
the grass will be partially exposed thus necessarily requiring more
frequent and more copious watering. The best mulch for a lawn
in this condition is a covering of about one-half inch of well-rotted
stable-manure spread evenly over the entire surface of the lawn.
This will give a soft springy surface and renewed life and growth
to the grass while its color will become much darker. It will not
then require nearly so much water to keep fresh and vigorous.
Mulching newly sown grass or other seeds means spreading a
thin layer of clean, fresh straw over the surface of the ground, its
[310]
EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
purpose being to shade the ground until the seeds germinate. The
straw should be raked oflF when the grass is one inch high.
ft
PRICKING OUT
This is a term which is applied to the removal of small seed-
ling plants, from the seed-bed, to pots or boxes. The operation
is generally carried out as soon as the young seedlings are about
one inch in height. They should be lifted from the seed-bed by
hand, the soil shaken carefully from the roots and the plants
placed singly on a thin board or on the surface of the soil in the
box in which the young seedlings are to be pricked out. They
should then be taken singly by the upper leaves between the
finger and thumb of the left hand ; a hole should be made in the
soil with the forefinger of the right hand or with a dibble and the
roots of the young seedling should be carefully placed into that
hole so that the lower leaf or leaves of the plant rest on the sur-
face; the soil should then be gently pressed about the roots.
When the box or pot is filled, the yoimg plants should receive a
gentle watering with the watering-pot through a fine rose. They
should then be returned to a position and temperature similar to
that in which they were grown, and shaded from strong sunshine
for a few days or until the yoimg plants have made fresh roots
when they may be gradually exposed to light and air.
BUDDING
The usual method of increasing plants, provided by nature,
is by seeds. Seeds increase species, but as the peculiarities of
varieties can rarely be perpetuated in the same manner, there
arose the necessity of finding a method of increasing a variety so
that its qualities would not be altered, and this can be accom-
plished by budding. The possibilities of grafting and budding
however, have certain limitations. Those trees only which are
[311]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
allied to each other respond so that the budding operations can be
successfully performed.
As a general rule, the seed, cone, nut and mast-bearing wood
should be worked on each other, and unless the stock and scion
or bud are nearly related (such as varieties of the same species,
species of the same genera, genera of the same order) the result
will be imsuccessful.
Budding is an operation by which a bud, together with a
portion of the bark, is removed from a plant and inserted be-
neath the inner bark of another plant or beneath the bark of the
same plant. The best time for budding is when the cambium
or sap is flowing freely, allowing the bark to be easily raised
from the wood. When the stock and the tree or bush, from
which the bud is taken, are in that condition, the operation will
be successful and the union of the bud with the stock most readily
effected. If the bark adheres firmly to the wood, it shows that
the flow of sap has been arrested and in that case budding should
not be attempted.
In operating, take a shoot from the tree or bush (from which
buds are to be worked) and immediately cut off the leaves within
one inch of the stem; make a transverse incision in the stock,
and, from the middle of this, make a longitudinal one. A bud
should now be removed from the shoot by taking the shoot in
the left hand and entering the knife about one-half inch below
the bud, more or less, according to the size of the shoot and of
the stock; with a clean, sloping cut pass the knife upward and
inward till under the bud, and then slope outward so that the eye
or bud may be nearly in the middle of the piece thus detached.
In doing this, the knife will necessarily cut off a portion of the
wood along with the bud; this should be removed. To do so,
turn the surface upward, holding the piece between the fore-
finger and thumb of the left hand, enter the point of the knife
between the inner bark and upper extremity of the wood, raise
the extremity a little, so that it can be taken hold of between
[312]
EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
4
the point of the knife and the nail of the thumb, and then by a
twitch remove the wood. Be careful to see that, along with the
wood, the core of the bud is not also removed. If the core comes
along with the wood the bud is unlikely to be a success, and
another bud should be taken.
The bud is now ready for insertion. With the ivor>'^ handle
of the budding knife, raise the bark of the stock at the incision
before mentioned ; commencing at the comers immediately below
the cross-cut, slip in the handle of the knife gently and carefully
avoiding any forcing or scratching of the wood or bark. When
the bark is sufficiently raised to admit the bud, take the bud by
the leaf stalk and gently insert it by the assistance of the ivory
handle. Let the upper part of the bud be at the cross-cut of the
stock so that the bud may fit closely to the upper edge of the cut.
The operation, to be done well, should be done quickly, for the
organizing tissue is very delicate and soon becomes injured by
exposure.
The bud, after having been inserted, must be bound by fine
matting or worsted, and, in doing this, care must be taken not
to move the bud in any way which wiU cause friction and so
injure the tissues below it. In tying, commence below the end
of the incision and pass the tie closely round as far as the bud,
keeping the bud close to the stock. Continue binding closely
until reaching the cross incision; make one or two turns above
the cross-cut and fasten the ends of the tie. The operation is now
completed.
As soon as it has been ascertained that the bud has taken,
the ties should be loosened and retied, to prevent the galling of
the bud by the ties becoming too tight.
When the bud has become thoroughly established, which will
be known by the bud swelling and beginning to make new growth,
the stock must be cut back close to the bud. Should the bud
make a strong, soft shoot it may be necessary to support it for
[313I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
a few weeks by tying the shoot to a stake until hard, firm growth
is attained.
There are many other modes of budding, but the method
described will be found the best for general use.
GRAFTING
Grafting is an operation in which two cut surfaces of the
same plant or of different plants are placed so as to imite and
grow together. The portion cut off is termed the scion or graft
and the plant on which it is worked or grafted is called the stock.
Whip-grafting is generally considered the best kind of graft-
ing and is the one most extensively used.
When the stock and the scion are of equal thickness, the wood
of the cut surfaces when placed together, should cover each other
completely and exactly, so that the inner bark of the stock touches
the inner bark of the scion.
In proceeding to operate, cut the stock in a sloping direction,
terminating, if possible, above a bud. Then take the scion and
cut it sloping from above and thin towards the end, the shape of
the scion being similar to that of the stock; cut a split or tongue
a little above the middle of the scion and a like tongue in the
cut surface of the stock, the purpose of the tongues being to hold
the parts together. The parts should then be secured by being
tied with matting or other material and surrounded with graft-
ing-wax, clay or some other substance which wiU exclude the air
and wet.
There are several other modes of grafting including Saddle-
grafting, Cleft-grafting and Side-grafting, the object being in
all systems to bring together the iimer bark so that the sap vessels
of the stock will fit exactly with the sap vessels of the scion, and
to securely keep them in position until a union is effected.
[314]
EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS
A cutting is an entirely detached portion of a plant, usually
a shoot or part of a shoot, having buds or buds and leaves. Cut-
tings should be taken only from healthy plants and from parts
of these which are not in a weakly state, and, further, only from
those portions of the plants which have been exposed to full
light and air, for, if the shoots or branches of a plant are not in
a condition to make growth with a supply of nourishment from
roots of the parent plant, they cannot, when made into cuttings,
be expected to possess sufficient energy to produce good plants.
A good cutting should possess a certain degree of finnness also,
for, if the shoot is exceedingly soft and full of sap, it will not
root so freely as one which is more mature.
Cuttings of deciduous trees and shrubs should be taken off
after the fall of the leaf and before the rise of the sap in Spring.
The buds on the underground part of the cutting should be
rubbed off. In making a cutting of a soft-wooded plant, the
leaf should be cut off close to the stem on the part which is under-
groimd when the cutting is set or planted.
In planting a cutting of a deciduous tree or shrub, it is well
to plant two-thirds of the cutting imderground, one-third only
being allowed to remain above the soil.
When making cuttings, a smooth, thin-bladed, very sharp
knife should be used, so that the cut is clean and smooth. A
blimt or rough-edged knife leaves a rough, bruised surface which
rarely gives good results. When the cuttings have been selected
and a sharp knife provided, take each cutting in the left hand,
remove three or four of the lower leaves close to the stem and
cut through the stem in a slightly slanting direction inmiediately
below a bud or joint. The cutting is then ready to be planted,
and should, as soon as possible, be placed in the soil in the posi-
tion where it is to root.
[3151
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
PROPAGATION BY SUCKERS
Suckers are underground shoots and should be taken up with
all their roots attached. They may be taken up at any time when
the parent plant or tree may be safely removed.
PROPAGATION BY LAYERING
A Layer is a branch or shoot, part of which is introduced into
the soil and strikes root while fed by the parent plant. The
operation is effected by simply bending down and burying, about
an inch deep in the soil, the branch or shoot to be layered, and
preventing it from springing up, by placing over it a hooked
peg firmly set in the groimd. Before pegging it down, cut a slit
in a slanting direction half through the shoot or branch; bend
the shoot downward and place it about an inch deep in the
groimd. Fasten it securely with the hooked peg; then bend the
point of the shoot upward imtil the slit in the shoot is opened
enough to allow a very little fine soil to enter the slit. Secure
the foot of the shoot by tying it to a stake, care being taken not
to sever the layer entirely from the parent plant. Cover the
sUt portion with some light sandy soil and give a good watering.
In a short time, the layers will emit roots. When the layer has
rooted freely, sever the young plant from the parent plant and
treat as recommended for young trees or plants.
OFFSETS
Offsets are short, lateral branches or shoots which root where
they rest on the soil or imder its surface and thus serve for
propagation.
NURSERY ROWS
"Plant in nursery rows" is a term frequently used in the fore-
going chapters. A "nursery" is a place where trees, shrubs or
other plants are raised and grown for transplanting. The young
[3161
EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
plants are generally set out in lines or rows, hence the term "plant
in nursery rows."
DIVISION OF THE BULBS, ETC.
'^Division of the Bulbs" is simply dividing clusters into
single bulbs and planting them singly instead of in clusters. The
same applies to "division of the roots," "division of the crowns," etc.
GARDEN FRAMES
Plant Frames are generally made of redwood boards one and
one-half inches thick. Their dimensions vary, a good serviceable
size being six feet long by three feet in width of sash. The frame
on which the sash rests should be eighteen inches high on the
back and eight inches high in front so that the sash, when in
position, will have enough slope to shed off the rain.
A Cool or Cold Frame is one which has no artificial heating.
A Hot Frame is one which is placed on a heap of strawy
stable-manure or other fermenting niaterial which has partially
spent its heat, its temperature having fallen to about eighty
degrees Fahrenheit.
Hot-beds are very useful, especially in Spring, for encourag-
ing rapid growth in tender plants or seedlings, as they supply a
warm moist atmosphere very congenial to most of the tender
plants. Cuttings also of various plants emit roots and grow
much faster on a Hot-bed than when placed where there is only
fire heat.
To make up a Hot-bed, secure a quantity of fresh stable-
manure and an equal quantity of tree-leaves, which have been
recently collected; turn them over and mix them together three
or four times every second day for eight days. Build the heap the
size and shape of the frame to be used, and allow an extra width
of two or three feet all around; spread the mixture evenly in
[317]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
layers of not more than six inches each, treading each layer firmly
as spread mitil the bed is built up about four feet high or thick.
Over the surface place a layer of ashes, sand, or leaf-mold, well
decomposed, spreading it evenly about three inches thick.
The Hot-bed is now ready for the frame, and after the rank
steam has escaped, and the temperature of the air in the frame
has fallen to eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit, it is ready for receiv-
ing plants, cuttings or seeds. It is well to allow a little ventila-
tion at the top of the frame night and day for a few days, after
new beds are put up.
BOTTOM HEAT
What is meant by Bottom-heat is a bed of sand, ashes or
other light plunging material, artificially heated either by hot
water or steam pipes, by tanks filled with hot water or by a hot-
bed made of fermenting material. In this sand or ash-bed the
pots or pans or boxes are "plunged," being buried to the rim.
Bottom-heat is considered indispensable for propagating by cut-
tings or seeds in early Spring.
[318]
SAND RECLAMATION
CHAPTER XXI
SAND RECLAMATION
AND Reclamation is a matter of considerable
interest to those located in the coast counties
of California. As the Park Commission of San
Francisco has, in the process of construction of
Golden Gate Park, overcome the diflSculties of
sand reclamation, an account of how this has been done and
of the work preparatory to the construction of the Park, follow-
ing the reclamation, is probably the best way to treat the
subject of this chapter.
The sand dunes of San Francisco are situated in the extreme
westerly portion of the city, and, bordering on the Pacific Ocean,
lie entirely open and exposed to the storms of Winter and to the
Sunmier winds which blow nearly every afternoon during the
latter season at the rate of twenty or more miles per hour.
This sand is composed of small particles of granite, clean and
sharp, without any vegetable matter and having no clay or other
soil mixed with it even in the smallest proportion. On account
of the almost constant action of the wind, it was formerly kept
ever on the move, and in heavy gales drifted like snow, at times
being moved in a single day to a depth of three or four feet and
often being carried a distance of over a hundred feet.
How to tie this moving mass of sand and to hold and bind
it from drifting was the first problem to be solved by the Park
builders.
The first experiment tried was sowing barley-seed thickly
over the entire area, harrowing and cross-harrowing the sand so
as to cov^r the seed. In due course the seed sprouted and grew
to a height of several inches, covering the sand and holding it
[319]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
fairly well for a few months, but, on account of barley being a
shallow rooter and an annual, dying out in a few months, it
failed to hold the sands together after July, and the winds of
August started them moving again.
The next attempt was made with the Yellow Lupin (Lu-
pinus arboreus), a strong-growing, perennial shrub which is a
native of this section. The seeds were collected and sown broad-
cast over a large portion of the area, but this proved successful
only in the better protected parts of the district.
The Sea Bent Grass (Ammophila arenaria), a native of the
maritime countries of Europe and successfully used in nearly all
the coast countries of that continent, was next experimented
with. This plant had been used in Denmark perhaps more than
in any other country, but France, Holland, Italy, Spain and also
Great Britain had reclaimed many thousands of acres by means
of this wonderful sand-binder.
The seeds were imported from France, and, first of all, were
sown in the nursery. When two years old, the plants were taken
up and planted out in the sand-dime district where they imme-
diately took root and, by their tremendous root-growth, held the
sands together and prevented them from moving.
The great superiority of the Sea Bent Grass over all others
reconmiended as sand-binders is that it is almost impossible to
bury it so deeply in the sand that its crowns cannot push through
to the surface. Even if buried many feet deep, it works its
strong stems up to the air where new crowns form from which
are sent down masses of strong, fleshy roots, anchoring the grass
so firmly that the fiercest gales have but little effect on its growth.
This grass is also a wonderful sand collector. Eleven years
ago, when the Park Commission of San Francisco constructed
the drive facing the ocean along the Great Highway, the line
of the proposed roadbed was in many places below high water
mark, so sand was scraped from below high water marb in order
to raise the roadway to the proper level.
[320]
SAND RECLAMATION
When this was done, the slopes facing the ocean were planted
with the Sea Bent Grass which soon took root and grew very
strongly, the saline character of the sand evidently being suited
to its requirements. In a few months these slopes were one mass
of the strong, healthy grass with its thick, creeping, perennial
roots anchored deeply in the sand.
The mass of sand is thrown up from the ocean and left on
the beach by thousands of tons, and, when dried by the sun, is
blown inland by the winds, being carried many miles xmless ob-
structed.
After the construction of. the driveway, this sand, when
moved by the wind, was caught by the grass pladled on the
slopes of the newly built road and held there, the grass pushing
through the sand as it was pOed up, until today there is an
embankment formed by this drift-sand which is from ten to
Eucalyptus in Sand Near Coast.
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
fifteen feet higher than the roadway and from a hundred to three
hundred feet in width, firmly kept in position by this wonderful
grass.
The culture of the grass is very simple. The roots are dug
or pulled up by hand, and, if the ground to be operated on is
reasonably level, the surface is plowed with an ordinary plow.
A few of the roots are dropped about two feet apart into every
third furrow and then covered by the plow, \mtil the entire tract
is thus planted. Where the ground is abrupt or too steep for
plowing, holes are dug a foot deep and about two feet apart
and a few of the roots dropped into each hole, the sand around
the roots being pressed firm by the foot. The best season for
planting is February or March although the grass will do well
if planted either earlier or later in the year, provided the sand
is moist. It should, if possible however, be set out during rainy
weather, as at such time there is no dry sand to get about the
roots; besides, the rain settles the sand around the roots far
better than any treading can possibly do.
The sand-shifting having been stopped by the Bent Grass
and no further trouble being apprehended from drifting, the next
operation in the work of park building to be imdertaken by the
Park Conunission was planting the ground with hardy trees and
shrubs.
A great many different species of trees were experimented
with, including those especially suggested by European for-
esters, such as the Norway Maple, Sycamore, Maritime Pine,
EngUsh Yew, Austrian Pine, the Elder and many others highly-
recommended. In exposed situations all of these, with the excep-
tion of the Maritime Pine, failed entirely.
At the same time many of our native trees and shrubs, in-
cluding Monterey Cypress, Monterey Pine, Yellow Pine as well
as Alders and Maples were set out. The Cottonwood, Scrub
Oak, and other varieties of Oaks were also given a trial, but,
excepting the Monterey Cypress and Monterey Pine, all of them,
[324]
SAND RECLAMATION
like the hardier of the European introductions, did fairly well
in the sheltered hollows only, where good soil and plenty of
water were provided, while the Monterey Cypress and Monterey
Pine alone stood the test of braving the storms and the blasting
influence of the Summer winds in the more exposed places and
the district close to the shore.
Seeds of a great many trees were also introduced from Aus-
tralia and New Zealand as well as from South America, and,
much to our surprise, some of these gave fine results, the Acacia
longifolia and the Leptospermum proving two of the best for
this sort of work, these forming a close thicket of twiggy stems
which provided perfect shelter for other species not so hardy.
Eucalyptus of many species were set out by thousands, but only
the common Blue and the rugged Red Gum were a success in
the poorer sands, and none of them could stand the climatic
conditions unsheltered within five himdred yards of the salt
water. The above mentioned and a few other hardy varieties
grew fairly well for a period of ten years, but after that time they
seemed to become bark-bound and the growth became stunted,
showing that the trees, after they begin to form heartwood,
require a richer soil than that composed of pure sand.
It therefore became necessary, in order to maintain a healthy
vigorous growth in the yoimg forest trees, to supply them with a
foreign fertilizer. This was done by utilizing the street sweep-
ings from the down-town streets which were brought out to the
Park by electric cars, and, from these cars, distributed by carts
and wagons among the starving trees. The change produced by
this means was amazing. A few months after the sweepings
were spread over the surface, the trees took on fresh growth and
appeared to get new life and vigor, the leaves becoming darker
and more richly colored.
In addition to the street sweepings, thousands of cubic yards
of loam, clay, etc., have been carted into the Park each year for
the formation and growth of lawns and shrubbery groups.
[325]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
When the sand has been bound and prevented from drifting,
a forest of strong-growing trees established (giving the required
shelter), and a good soil provided, the problem of park biulding
becomes very much the same as when the work is undertaken on a
piece of land possessing naturally good soil and covered with
natural trees.
On this thousand acre tract, which originally was a bleak
waste of drifting, barren sand, may now be found groves of
handsome trees, natives of many coimtries of both hemispheres,
and of all the continents. Here one may see the Cedars of
Lebanon and of Moimt Atlas as well as the Deodars of the
Himalayas, the Araucarias of Chile, Brazil and Norfolk Island,
also the large- flowering, handsomely foliaged Magnolia of our
Southern States, the Ehns of New England, and the Sequoia,
Cypresses, Pines, etc., of our own State. In addition may be
foimd the Yews of Old England and the fragrant, feathery
Acacias of Australia, together with groves of Bamboos, masses
of gaily-flowered Camellias and Rhododendrons and statety
Rubber trees, while hundreds of other varieties of trees and
shrubs are to be seen, natives of many climes, all of them ap-
parently happy and healthy in their new surroundings.
[326]
Alblzzia Julibrissin in Flower.
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
CHAPTER XXII
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
N European countries and the Eastern States of
America many works on gardening have been
written in calendar form, such a calendar being
very convenient for reference or as a guide for
systematic work throughout the year.
Of course, no calendarial directions can be, at the same time,
suitable to all the different localities or districts of our great
State. It may be pouring rain and cold weather in Humboldt
county and on the same day very dry and quite warm in the
counties south of Tehachapi; we have cold frosty nights in
Shasta coimty when the oranges are ripening in the county
adjoining. While it would be impossible to provide for every
contingency, yet, along the coast and in the great valleys, the
difference in temperature is not so wide but that a general system
of operation might apply to all. The seasons themselves, how-
ever, vary so much that many circumstances must be taken into
consideration, such as the state of the weather, the condition of
the soil, etc. In some years, the Winter rains fall much earlier
than in others; one season may have rainfall enough to allow
plowing and spading to be commenced early in September, while,
in other years, the groimd may remain dry and hard imtil late in
November,
Keeping all this in view, there are submitted in this chapter,
in the form of a Gardening Calendar, a series of hints and sug-
gestions based on the experience of the writer, which, it is be-
lieved, will be foimd useful and profitable to growers in CaU-
fomia, it being left to the good judgment of such to make the
[329]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
necessary modifications when a season has been abnormal or if
their locations should happen to be where the temperature goes
to an extreme in any way.
JANUARY
If it has not already been done, have all the necessary prun-
ing of fruit trees (including apples, pears, apricots, peaches,
plums, etc.) attended to at once; also prune roses and other de-
ciduous trees, climbers and shrubs, removing all decayed or
weak growth. If any show signs of ill health, take up the plants
and examine their roots: root-prune all unhealthy stock and
replant in fresh, well-cultivated, deep, rich soil. After pruning,
clear away all the clippings and any weeds which may be f oimd
either in shrub-groups, flower-beds or walks. Weeds should
never be allowed to get foothold in any well-kept garden.
When the hedges have all been clipped and the place has
been given a general clean-up, a clear dry day should be selected
when the soil is in good condition, neither too dry nor yet so
wet that it will stick to the spade; after giving the soil a good
coat of at least three inches of old, well-rotted manure, spade
the surface of all shrubbery-groups and flower-beds to the depth
of at least one foot (except where the operation would interfere
too much with the roots of the plants), leaving the soil in as
rough and lumpy a condition as possible so as to allow the atmos-
phere to penetrate the soil.
Plant out all kinds of fruit trees and also all kinds of decidu-
ous trees and shrubs, selecting a day when the air is soft and the
soil in good condition, avoiding days when the wind blows cold
and dry, or the soil is wet and soggy.
In laying out new rose-beds, first trench the soil to the depth
of two feet and mix the soil freely with, at least, six inches of
half-decomposed horse-manure. The soil should be of a good
strong nature, not too sandy but not a heavy clay; a good mel-
[330]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
low loam of any color, if well-enriched, suits the rose, a fairly
well-sheltered situation being selected.
January is a good month for laying out new groimd, making
walks, etc.
In the Greenhouse or glasshouse the principal work is keep-
ing everything as bright and fresh as possible, allowing no dead
or dying leaves or dirt of any kind to accumulate on any bench
or pot or even imder the plant-benches or stages. It is advisable
to syringe very little during this month, and only on bright,
warm days and in the early morning. It will suffice to dampen
the floors and plant-stages (or tables) once or twice a day;
especially be careful not to syringe plants which are in bloom,
else the display of flowers will be short.
This being the coldest month of the year, and flowers scarce
in the open, a good display of color should be aimed at, Roman
Hyacinths, Begonias, Cinerarias, Euphorbias, Rondeletias, Pri-
mulas, Poinsettias, etc., being utilized. We should keep the
greenhouse gay and cheerful during the entire month.
Keep the temperature between fifty-five and sixty-five de-
grees Fahrenheit at night, allowing a rise of ten degrees in the
daytime.
Give larger pots to pot-bound palms or other evergreen, orna-
mental-leaved plants which have healthy roots. Examine each
individual plant, and, if the roots are not in a healthy condition,
cut back the diseased roots to healthy tissue and repot the plant
in a pot of the same size or even in a smaller one, using good,
fresh soil composed of two thirds turfy-loam and one-third leaf-
mold with enough sand to keep the whole open and free, to-
gether with a sprinkling of bone-meal or crushed bones.
Sow seeds of Lobelias, Pyrethrums, Celosias, Wigandias, and
other bedding foliage-plants, placing them in sandy leaf-mold
and giving them partial shade until germination.
[333]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
FEBRUARY
The old adage "as the day lengthens the cold strengthens"
is just as true in California as it is in the East, and should be
carefully remembered by all who grow, in the flower-garden,
plants which are at all tender. Cinerarias, for instance, may be
carried over a few cold nights by being covered with light cot-
ton sheeting and will thus give grand resxilts in the early Spring,
whereas, if not protected during cold nights, they will be a
failure. The old favorite Spring-flowering Doronicum should
now receive special attention and will be foimd useful in beds
and borders. Plants which have been transplanted in the Fall
or have been left imdisturbed from the previous season will give
good results in the Spring, while those whose roots are divided
at this season, will flower late in the Summer thus giving a longer
season of flower.
Ivies growing on walls should be trimmed in, fairly close
to the wall or fence, as they quickly become covered with new
leaves at this season. Rough walls have an attractive look if
covered with Ivy, Virginia Creeper or Boston Ivy. Ivy is also
useful for planting imder trees where grass and other plants die
out, or for rambling over rocks, tree stumps or rooteries.
In the flower-borders, the Iris reticulata and Iris major are,
during this month, developing their deliciously fragrant flowers
and deserve a little extra attention in the way of the groimd
being kept clear of weeds, of being mulched with well-decom-
posed manure, and, should the season be inclined to be dry, of
being given a copious supply of water at the roots. The same
instructions should be followed in the treatment of Hyacinths,
Tulips, Anemones, Ranimculus, Daffodils and other Spring-
flowering bulbs.
Seeds of numerous species of annuals will have to be sown
during the next few weeks. The hardy kinds may be sown in
the open ground in sunny, sheltered situations, in well-prepared
[334]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
soil when the weather is fine and the soil is in a fairly dry con-
dition. Salpiglossis, Phlox Drummondii and Zinnia, also
Asters, Petunias, etc., should be sown, about this date, on a mild
hotbed which has an even covering of finely-sifted soil two inches
deep, thoroughly moistened before the seed is planted. The
seeds should be thinly sown in rows and covered with finely-
sifted soil to the depth of one-quarter of an inch; shade the soil
luitil germination has taken place, care being taken that the yoimg
seedlings are not allowed to flag or wilt or even to become dry.
When the seedlings are large enough to be pricked off, they
should be planted, three inches apart, in moderately rich soil in
boxes (four inches deep) or singly in two and one-half inch pots.
Insert cuttings of Altemantheras, Irisenes, Heliotropes,
Petunias, etc., in pots or boxes filled with a mixture of one-half
fiinely-sifted leaf-mold, one-quarter loam and one-quarter clean
white sand, with a half-inch layer of sand on the surface; give
water enough to settle the sand about the cuttings and plunge
in a bottom heat of about seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit in
greenhouse or hot frame, keeping them in a close atmosphere
and shaded from simshine for about ten days and then gradually
exposing them to light and air. Seedling Lobelias and Pyre-
thrums, sown last month, should now be pricked out about two
inches apart in light rich soil in pans or boxes. Place them in a
close, warm atmosphere shading them imtil they re-root in their
new soil when they may be gradually inured to air and light.
Dahlias. If an increase of the number of plants is desired,
old roots should now be put upon a bed having a mild bottom-
heat, the tubers being covered up to the collar with light leaf-
mold or other light sandy soil. Syringe them twice daily, and,
as soon as the young shoots have made two or three joints in
length, slip them off and place them singly in small pots filled
with sand and leaf-mold, half and half, well-mixed together;
then plimge them in a close, warm frame or greenhouse and,
when they are rooted, gradually expose them to air and light.
[33s]
GREENHOUSE
If the repotting of the general collection of plants recom-.
mended last month is not finished, that work should be attended
to as early this month as possible. As the days lengthen, more
ventilation should be given, the ventilators being closed early
in the afternoon and the temperature allowed to reach eighty-
five or ninety degrees Fahrenheit by sunheat. Should green-
fly, scale or other insects have appeared, boil one poimd of
whale-oil soap in one gallon of rain water (or larger quantities
in the same proportion) and use one-half pint of this mixture in
[336]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA {
Hollyhock seeds should be sown early in the month in order
to get good flowering plants the first season. East Lothian
Stocks, Lobelia cardinaUs, Verbenas, Celosias and also Pent-
stemons and Antirrhinums should be sown early in this month.
Begonia tubers, lifted in the Fall, should now be placed in boxes,
on a thin layer of light soil and half-covered with the same kind
of soil. Start them growing imder cool treatment and keep
them in a cool frame imtil planting-out time. The stock of
plants may be increased by dividing tubers which show many
buds. The cut surfaces of these divisions should be sprinkled
with sulphur-dust and allowed to dry before potting.
Where flowers of Sweet-peas are desired early, seeds should be
sown, in the first week of this month (in well-prepared, rich gar-
den soil) about three-quarters of an inch deep, either in rows or
in small circles. As soon as the young plants are about four
inches high they should be given a trellis or other light support to
climb over.
Sow also in the open ground, as early in the month as the
soil is in the proper condition, that is when the soil is moist but
not too wet or sticky, Eschscholtzias, Lupins, Poppies, Corn-
flower, Nemophilas and other hardy wildflowers and annuals.
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
four gallons of rain water for syringing twice weekly; if mealy-
bug is troublesome, add eight ounces of petroleum. When it is
necessary to use the petroleiun mixture, it should be done about
five or six o'clock in the evening on dull days only. By using
this petroleum emulsion occasionally, much labor will be saved
in checking the spread of mealy-bug and the leaves will become
glossy.
Ferns growing freely should be afforded abimdance of mois-
ture at the roots, and a moist atmosphere must be maintained at
all times, this being, for successful fern culture, an absolute neces-
sity. Lygodium scandens, a chmbing fern suitable for covering
walls, trellises, etc., requires frequent attention at this season.
In order to display the plant effectively, each frond should be
secured to a fine wire; the plants should be given abimdance of
water at the roots and syringed frequently. Where it is desir-
able to increase the number of plants, in the fern family, divide
the old plants into sections, and pot them in suitable sizes, care
being taken that the plants are put into the smallest sizes of pots
in which they may be comfortably placed, in soil composed of
one-third mellow loam, one-third leaf-mold and one-third peat
with enough sand to keep the whole open for free passage of
water. Place them in a shaded portion of the greenhouse, syring-
ing morning and evening, keeping the temperature at sixty
degrees Fahrenheit at night, allowing it to rise to seventy-five
degrees Fahrenheit by day, and carefully preventing cold draughts
of air from passing through the house.
Hanging baskets should now receive a thorough over-hauling.
If a basket requires replanting, line it first with moss and place
about one inch of soil over this; place the plants in the basket
and fill the basket with lumpy, fibrous loam and a little peat.
Asparagus Sprengeri and Asparagus plumosus are excellent plants
for growing in baskets as are also the Davallia ferns, the Boston
fern and many of the Adiantums. Many of the small- flowering
tuberous Begonias also make excellent subjects, especially where
[339]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
hung above the eye when their lovely flowers show to good
advantage.
Propagate by cuttings, Coleus, Pilea muscosa, Tradescantia,
Ficus and Panicum; also propagate Begonia Rex from leaves
and Isolepis by division.
Caladiums and Alocacias, having rested during the Winter,
may now be repotted. Shake the old soil from the tubers and pot
them in small pots, allowing not more than a half-inch of soil
between the tubers and the side of the pot. They should be
placed in soil consisting of equal parts of fibrous loam, leaf-soil
and peat, with enough silver-sand to keep the whole sweet and
open. After potting, place them in a mild bottom heat of about
seventy degrees Fahrenheit and a top temperature of about sixty
degrees Fahrenheit at night, allowing a rise of about ten degrees
in the daytime; water sparingly until growth has begun. When
the plants have filled the pots with roots, change them to larger
pots, taking care that an inch of fresh soil surrounds the ball of
earth around the plants; this will necessitate a pot two sizes or
inches wider than the one the plant formerly occupied. In repot-
ting, use the same soil as reconmiended for the first potting, but,
in addition, mix a little very old well-rotted half-dry cow or
horse-manure with it as the Caladiums, like most other large-
leaved, rapid-growing plants, love good rich feeding and plenty
of water during the growing season.
Gloxinias, Achimenes and Tydaeas may also be started and
treated in much the same way recommended for the Caladiums;
see that the pots are well supplied with drainage material by
filling the pots at least one-quarter of their depth with crocks or
broken bricks, placing one flat piece over the hole in the bottom
of the pot and, above that, small pieces not over half an inch
thick; cover this with moss to keep the soil from washing into
the drainage material.
Rearrange the plants from time to time as this will tend to
keep them in better condition and more shapely in appearance;
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CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
wash the pots, sponge the leaves, etc.; also wash the woodwork
and give a general cleanup to the house; in short, neatness should
be in evidence in the greenhouse.
MARCH
If wet weather or any other cause has rendered it impossible
to carry out the directions given for last month, these should
now be proceeded with. This is the best month for planting
Eucalyptus, Acacias and other semi-tender trees and shrubs, as
directed imder their respective headings. All vacant ground
should be manured and spaded where required; weeds should be
destroyed wherever found, and the ground stirred lightly with
the hoe or rake in order to destroy nests of slugs and harmfxd
insects. Ground which was roughly spaded last month shoidd
now be hoed and raked when moderately dry. The borders of
the shrubbery and other groimd, where flowers are to be planted
or where seeds are to be sown, shoxdd be worked over, levelled
and raked preparatory to planting and seeding.
If they have not been already sown, plant seeds of Sweet-
peas, Nemophilas and the other annuals recommended last
month, sowing them in circular patches in small groups, or in
beds or rows where plenty of space is available. Plant out
young plants of Carnations, Phloxes, Violets, Pentstemons,
Campanulas, Colimibines, Japanese Anemones and other hardy,
perennial flowering-plants in well-prepared, fairly-rich soil.
Plant out also Gladioli and other hardy bulbous roots (includ-
ing Begonias and Caladiimi esculentum), mulching among the
plants with a light sprinkling of well-rotted manure.
This month is the most favorable for giving the Rockery a
little overhauling in the way of arranging such plants as Sedimis
and Mesembryanthemums. The especially strong-growing vari-
eties will generally be foimd to have outgrown the space allowed
them and should be dug out and replaced by small plants or
[341]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
cuttings, cuttings generally being preferred as it takes only a
few weeks for them to root and to begin to bloom again. Cras-
sulas, Cactus, Echeverias, Aloes, Auriculas, etc., should be ex-
amined, and, where necessary, should receive a top dressing of
rich light soil to encourage fresh growth; those having tall flower-
stems should be neatly staked in order to support their heavy
flower-heads in stormy weather. Arabis, Saxifraga and other
Spring- flowering rock-plants should have the ground about them
examined and the surface top-dressed, and, as soon as the bloom-
ing season is over, their flower-stems cut off, while, when neces-
sary, the plants should be severely cut back to encourage fresh,
vigorous flowering-growth for the following season.
When space is available, sow varieties of wildflowers. In
any out of the way spot not used for any special purpose, have
the ground spaded and sown with seeds of the different strong-
growing species such as Lupinus bicolor, Collinsia bicolor,
Eschscholtzia, etc., also Shirley and Iceland Poppies, Fox-gloves,
the common sweet Mignonette, and Nasturtium both climbing
and dwarf, not forgetting the free-spreading sweet Alyssum as
it will continue flowering late in the Autumn when most of the
others are past.
GREENHOUSE AND FRAMES
Altemanthera, Iresine and all bedding plants should receive
their final transplanting preparatory to hardening off. The
small-growing dwarf species, such as Altemanthera, are better
grown in boxes (the dimensions of which should be about fifteen
inches in width, twenty-two inches in length and four inches in
depth) and should be planted in light rich soil about two inches
apart. Boxes of this size are also used in growing Asters, Stocks,
Verbenas, Petunias and most of the low-growing annuals.
Dahlias, Hollyhocks and all strong, tall-growing, flowering and
ornamental plants do better if grown singly in pots.
Sow, early in the month, seeds of Stocks, Asters, Coreopsis,
[342]
Lawn and Driveway.
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
Dianthus, Cosmos, Ipomoeas, Marigolds, Phlox Drummondii,
etc., and, for succession, Lobelias, Zinnias, and Gaillardias.
Continue the work recommended for last month in the green-
house, keeping up a warm, moist atmosphere to encourage vigor-
ous growth. As the flowering-plants, such as Azaleas, go out of
bloom, pick off all the seed-pods and place the plants in a warm,
moist atmosphere to induce them to make fresh growth, shading
them during hot sunshine. Plants in need of repotting should
be attended to as soon as they are fairly started into growth, using
good fibrous peat, leaf-mold, a little broken charcoal and coarse
silver-sand for the potting. Work the soil firmly and evenly
roimd the old ball with a thin rammer, making it as firm as that of
the old ball. Syringe the plants freely with soft water while they
are making their growth; as growth progresses give them more
air, and, when completed, place them in the open air in a cool
shaded situation (avoiding cold draughts) and plunge the pots
in ashes to about half their depth.
Caladium plants which were started as advised a few weeks
ago will now be ready for repotting in pots two sizes larger than
those they occupy. The soil should be composed of one-third
loam, one-third leaf-mold and one-third silver-sand with a
sprinkling of pulverized cow-manure mixed with the soil. To
encourage vigorous root action, warm humid air should be pro-
vided; dose the ventilators early in the afternoon and conserve
the sun-heat ; syringe the plants freely with soft tepid water and
shade them during the bright sunshine.
Repot Coleus, Begonias, etc., as their pots become filled with
roots.
The majority of green house plants may be propagated during
this month. As a general rule, those cuttings root most readily
which are taken from plants that have formed half-ripe wood.
In the case of Begonias or other soft-wooded plants, cuttings may
be taken from any portion of the young shoots, provided a clean
cut is made inmiediately below a joint and with a sharp knife.
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GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
APRIL
N)anphaea, Lotus or other water plants should be planted or
replanted early in April before the young leaves have made much
growth.
If the water cannot be run off the pond, it is a good plan to
fill, with loam and old manure in equal proportions, the required
number of wicker-baskets (boxes made of laths will answer for
the same purpose), plant in each basket a few good crowns, cover-
ing the surface with an inch of coarse sand or fine gravel, and
then sink them in the desired positions in the water. For strong-
growing varieties, such as the Nymphaea Marliacea, Nymphaea
alba, Nymphaea chromatella, Nymphaea tuberosa and also the
Lotus family, larger bodies of soil are required in order to have
them at their best.
In the case of ponds where the water can be run off, mounds
of soil, held together by being surrounded with big round stones,
should be made, the plants set out and the pond quickly filled.
It should be remembered that a large niunber of crowns on a
plant is not conducive to free-flowering.
In addition to the Lilies themselves, attention should be given
to the many beautiful plants which thrive in shallow water or on
the banks bordering a pond, either partially submerged or
in the adjacent moist soil. For partially submerged spots or
shallow water the plume-like Papyrus antiquorum and the
Cyperus or Umbrella plant, the Calla lily and all of the Rushes
and Water-grasses are recommended, while the Pontederia
cordata, the Sagitarias and the Aponogetons all add to the
attractiveness of the pond or water-garden. Where occasional
flowering takes place, many handsome plants may be grown, any
of which can be planted now. These should include the gorgeous
Japanese Iris, the Spiraea Aruncus, many of the Bamboos,
Funkias, etc.
A number of the bedding plants such as Fuchsias, Geraniums,
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CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
the earlier Lobelias, Pyrethrums, etc., should now be placed out
of doors in sheltered situations, and all other bedding plants, as
soon as they are the required size, should be gradually hardened
oflF, care being taken not to expose them suddenly from hot green-
house or hot frame to the open air. It is advisable to keep them
under glass for a week or ten days with the ventilators open both
by day and by night, and, for the first few days after being placed
out of doors, they should be shaded during bright sunshine by
being covered with some Ught cheese-cloth or similar hght
shading.
If not already done, Cannas and Phloxes should have their
roots taken up and the crowns divided into bunches (two or
three stems to each bunch) and planted at once in well-enriched,
loamy soil; plant the Cannas about three feet apart and the
Phloxes about eighteen inches apart.
If the stock of Dahlias is short, cuttings may still be taken.
Pot the cuttings singly in two-inch pots and plunge them into a
little bottom heat where they will soon take root. These late
stock cuttings make excellent late- flowering effects, continuing
well into November. Shrubs which have been transplanted
during the last few months should be closely examined, and, if the
weather be inclined to the dry side, given a good soaking of water
at the roots; then they should be well mulched with old manure.
Spray them with water late in the afternoon of dry days to
encourage the swelling of buds and the making of fresh growth.
Roses will now be making good growth, and the buds should
be thinned according to the strength of the variety. Keep the soil
open by stirring it with the hoe, especially after rain or after
watering artificially, as this prevents undue evaporation. Should
the green fly attack the leaves, spray them with the mixture of
whale-oil soap and tobacco- juice in the evening, and hose off the
plants the following morning with clear water. Should one appli-
cation not be effective, spray again the following evening, using
the hose again next morning to wash off the soap. Even a third
[347I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
similar application may sometimes be necessary. Some use
quassia-extract in place of the whale-oil soap with the tobacco,
and apply it in similar way. One of the worst enemies of the
Rose is the Rose-leaf Roller, for which the sprayer should also
be used. In addition to this, examine the plants daily and squeeze
the grubs between the finger and thirnib. Should mildew appear,
apply flowers of sulphur. The best time to do this is in the early
morning while the dew is on the leaves.
GREENHOUSE
Indian Azaleas which have finished blooming, should, as
recommended last month, have their seed-pods removed and, if
necessary, be given larger pots. This is a good time to put in
cuttings of the Autumn favorite Chrysanthemiuns. Select
strong, short-jointed, young wood. Insert the cuttings in sandy
leaf-mold and place them in a cold frame, shading them for a
few days during sunshine and giving them a slight sprinkling with
the watering-pot in the evening before closing the sashes. As
soon as the young plants are well rooted, pot them singly in
two-inch pots using soil composed of two parts turfy-loam,
one part sandy leaf-mold and one part old, well-decomposed
horse-manure, with a little bone-meal. Be careful that all the
ingredients are well-mixed together and see that proper drainage
is afforded. Pot the plants firmly and return the plants to the
cold frame; keep them close for a few days and syringe them
lightly overhead at least once a day. Should the green fly
appear, dip the heads of the plants in softsoap and water.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and other fibrous-rooted Begonias
will now require attention. Having washed clean a suflicient
number of thumb-pots and attended to the drainage, fill each
pot loosely with sandy leaf-soil to the rim; make a hole in the
middle, insert a cutting and fill the hole with silver-sand, making
the soil firm about the cutting; plunge them in a place where
[348]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
they will get a little bottom heat, say about eighty degrees
Fahrenheit, standing them closely together. Each cutting being
struck singly in a pot, it is not necessary to disturb the roots at
next potting.
Sow seeds of Primula sinensis in well-drained, shallow pans
filled with soil composed of light loam, leaf-mold and silver-
sand mixed in equal parts and sifted through a sieve with a half-
inch mesh. Having made the soil firm and level, sow the seeds
evenly and press them into the soil with a piece of smooth dry
wood; cover the seeds lightly with fine particles of sandy leaf-
mold; water with a fine rose and cover the pans with a piece
of glass on which place a thin layer of moss. Keep the moss
damp until the seeds germinate; place the plants in a temper-
ature of about sixty degrees Fahrenheit; shade them during
the sunshine and see that the soil does not become dry. Gradu-
ally inure the young plants to light and air, and, when they make
four leaves, transplant them into shallow pans, an inch or two
apart, using the same soil as recommended for the seed.
It is now also the time of year to put in cuttings of Coleus,
Acalyphas and other soft-wooded plants. See that the young
plants of this class are not allowed to get pot-bound. Acalyphas
especially should be given plenty of pot-room as they require
good cultivation.
In potting young plants use rich loam, half-decayed leaf-
soil and sand, with a good sprinkling of old manure and a little
bone-meal; keep the foliage clean by sponging the leaves, as
overhead watering is liable to cause the racemes to decay; grow
the plants in a warm, moist atmosphere.
MAY
Sow seeds of Cowslips and hardy Prinuroses early in the
month, either in a cool, shady border or in boxes in a cold frame
where they should be kept shaded from sunshine until germin-
[349I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
ation. Seedlings, well-grown, generally give better results than
those propagated by division of the roots. As soon as the young
plants are large enough to be handled, prick them out in a shady,
well-sheltered border in a Ught soil, giving them plenty of water;
plant them in their permanent quarters in September or October
where they will give fine eflfects during the following Spring.
Annuals, the seeds of which were sown some weeks ago in
the flower-border and other vacant spaces, should now receive
attention in the way of thinning, in order that they may not
become crowded. Before thinning, give the groimd a good
soaking with water so that the roots may be the more easily
drawn from the soil. Should there be any danger of loss from
slugs or other insects, it would be safer to defer the final thinning
until the young plants are at least three inches high. It is well
however to err on the side of excessive thinning, as crowded
annuals always look poor and insignificant and bloom for only
a short time. After thinning, mulch lightly with old manure
about half an inch deep.
A further sowing of any subject which will come into flower
late in the Autumn is now in order. This might include Sweet-
peas, Poppies, Corn-flowers, etc.
Border Carnations should have their flower-stems tied loosely
to neat stakes painted brown or green, and the soil of the beds
should be hoed after each watering, never being allowed to crack
or become baked.
Bedding-out of all the tenderer species such as Alteman-
thera, Coleus, Cock's-comb, Iresine, etc., should be finished this
month, cloudy days or the later hours of the afternoon or eve-
ning being selected for the work.
Should the planting of the hardier subjects, such as Pentste-
mons. Antirrhinums, Gaillardias, Dahhas, Lobelia cardinalis,
etc., have been delayed, they must be planted out as early this
month as possible; select favorable weather, avoiding cold days
or days on which the wind is strong or the sun very hot. Plant
[350]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
them in the evening and give them a thorough watering imme-
diately. It is necessary to give the soil a good watering a few
hours before starting to plant, and on no account plant out young
bedding stock when the soil is at all dry even if it be so only on
the surface.
GREENHOUSE
Begonias, started some weeks ago, will now require larger
pots; allow two sizes larger where the plants are in vigorous
growth; pot in soil composed of loam, leaf -mold and sharp
sand, with a sprinkling of bone-meal or old cow-manure mixed
through it for the tuberous section; for the fibrous division
of the family, add a little peat to the mixture.
Give additional pot-room, as required, to all soft-wooded or
fine-foliaged plants; also tie, prune or stake as required to keep
the plants in good shape.
Prick off seedlings of Primula sinensis. Cinerarias and Cal-
ceolarias in pans or small boxes, planting them in soil composed
of leaf-mold and silver-sand with a little fibrous-loam added.
Place the plants in a close frame and shade them during the hot
sxmshine, avoiding cold draughts of dry air.
The tubers of the handsome, Winter-blooming Gesneria
should now be started. Place five or six tubers in a six-inch pot,
in soil composed of two-thirds fibrous loam and one-third peat,
with a Uttle leaf-mold and sand to keep the soil open. Cover
the tubers to the depth of half an inch; place them in the warm-
est comer of the greenhouse and give them water as required at
the roots but avoid sprinkling the leaves as that will spot them.
JUNE
Neatness and cleanliness should always be evident in the
flower-borders, spent flowers, faded leaves and weeds being
removed at least once a week and the surface of the soil stirred
frequently with the push-hoe or hand-fork.
[353]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Continue to stake and neatly tie in Carnations and all plants
requiring support, doing this before the stems begin to fall or
bend over. Vacant spaces, rendered so by the passing of the
late-Spring flowers, may be planted after being fertilized and
spaded, Dahlias, Salvias, Chrysanthemums, etc., being utilized
for late-Fall flowering.
Dahlias, of course, all require stakes which should be set
before the work of planting proceeds, and the shoots ought to
be fastened loosely to the stakes so that they may not be broken
by the wind.
Roses should have all spent flowers removed, partly for
appearance's sake and partly as a relief to the plants. After the
first crop of flowers is past, sprinkle a Uttle bone-meal or other
artificial fertilizer around the plants and stir the surface of the
soil, leaving it a little rough so that when water is applied, which
should be done immediately, the water will wash the fertilizer
rootward. A few hours later, or as soon as the soil will work
freely, dress the surface neatly with the rake.
Climbing roses, especially the strong-growing, free- flowering
varieties, should have the young shoots secured to the wires or the
trelhses. If their roots are in soil which is light and dry, abun-
dance of water should be given and immediately followed by
a Ught mulching.
Attend at this time of the year to the regulating and thinning
of climbing plants generally; where they are crowded, thin them
out, and, where plants have not filled their allotted space, some
shoots should be laid in for the purpose.
GREENHOUSE
Chrysanthemums should now be in condition to be trans-
planted into their flowering pots, the exact date for potting
being however of not so much importance as the condition
and quantity of roots in the pot. Unless the roots show a net-
[354]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
work around the ball, repotting should be deferred until this
condition prevails. When giving them their final potting, use
soil composed of any good, strong, turfy-loam mixed freely with
old horse-manure and a little sand. As Chrysanthemiuns require
a large amount of water, the drainage of the pots should be
ample and carefully placed so as to prevent waterlogging. After
potting, place them thickly together on a cindered or ash-covered
surface in a sheltered position, out of doors.
The dryness of the air at this season will necessitate the con-
stant damping of the paths and stages of the greenhouse. Open
all ventilators early in the morning, closing them again early
in the evening; syringe ferns and all smooth-leaved and orna-
mental-leaved plants not showing flower, with tepid water, but
carefully avoid syringing with cold water or water with a tem-
perature lower than the air of the greenhouse at the time of
syringing. Plants, showing flower-trusses, should occasionally
receive weak manure-water or a top-dressing of some artificial
manure.
Sow seeds of Calceolaria, for succession, in shallow pots or
pans, carefully drained and containing soil (consisting of loam,
leaf-mold and silver-sand in equal parts) which has been passed
through a half-inch meshed sieve. The soil should be pressed
firm and watered a few hours before putting in the seeds which
should be sown evenly. Barely cover the seeds with a light
sprinkling of silver-sand; place them in a cold frame or hand
glass, facing the North; keep them closely shaded until they
germinate when air may be admitted gradually; sprinkle them
overhead morning and evening.
Put in cuttings of Coleus for the Winter decorations and
repot Cinerarias, Begonias, and other soft-wooded plants as
required.
[355I
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
JULY
Gladioli are now much benefited by a dressing of old stable-
manure, followed by copious applications of water. When
nourished in this manner, the plants will grow to a large size
and give fine spikes of large, deep-colored flowers.
Dahlias also should receive plenty of water, and, when in
heavy bloom, they will be greatly benefited by a generous supply
of liquid manure twice a week; no plant repays generous treat-
ment and good cultivation better than the Dahlia. Thin
out weak shoots and attend to the staking and tying in of the
shoots; also thin in the flower-buds and cut off all spent
flowers.
Early-flowering varieties of Chrysanthemums should now be
making rapid growth. If weak shoots appear they should be
removed at once; see that they are well attended to in the way
of watering and repotting, for if the plants are allowed to suffer
from lack of pot-room or of sufficient moisture, the result will be
weak stems and small flowers. Attend to the staking and tying
of the plants in order to guard against injury from strong winds.
Deciduous shrubs, such as . Weigelas, Deutzias, Mock Orange,
etc., should have the shoots, which have flowered this season,
cut back to the stronger young shoots, and all weak shoots
removed entirely. Care should be taken that they receive plenty
of water at the root during the growing season.
Seeds of Mignonette may now be sown, selecting if possible
a cool situation facing the North. After sowing, shade the soil
with some Ught material, such as a thin layer of straw, to keep
the soil from baking until germination. Sow also seeds of Pan-
sies. Hollyhocks, Canterbury Bells, Intermediate Stocks, Wall-
flowers, Anemone coronaria, Carnations and other early Spring-
flowering plants. By sowing seeds this month, one can count on
having strong plants ready to take the place of those which
finish blooming in October, and the plants which begin to show
[356]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
bloom in early Winter will keep the flower-beds bright with color
until late in the Spring.
Put in the last of the Poinsettia cuttings for the year as
early in the month as practicable, care being taken that the
young plants do not suffer from want of water, as few plants
show the effects of the lack of it more quickly than the Poinsettia.
As it is generally desired that the largest plants possible be grown
in small pots, a rich soil should be used in potting. A compost
consisting of good turfy-loam, good peat or leaf-mold, and
silver-sand, with a sprinkling of bone-meal will be found suitable.
In potting, the size of the future pot should be borne in mind as
really fine plants may be grown in six or seven-inch pots; so,
in the first potting, three-and-a-half-inch pots will be found
large enough. When the cuttings are first potted, return them
to the cutting bed and keep them shaded closely for a few days,
syringing with tepid water several times daily xmtil they form
fresh roots when they can be gradually exposed to the sunlight.
This treatment will cause the leaves to be retained almost down
to the soil. In the Southern portions of our State, where this
plant gives such splendid results in the open air, the young plants
may be set out in their permanent quarters about the beginning
of the present month, a srnmy, sheltered situation and a fairly-
rich, Ught soil being selected.
Transfer seedling Cinerarias and Primulas to three-inch or
four-inch pots, selecting soil of equal parts loam and leaf-mold
with a little sand for the potting material.
Palms should now be in full growth. They should be copiously
syringed night and morning and have weak manure-water
applied to the roots at least once a week. Should any scale or
other insects appear, give a thorough cleansing with soap-suds or
other insecticide (using a sponge or soft rag when washing),
going over the leaves two or even three times until they are
perfectly clean.
At this dry season. Ferns should be given a plentiful supply
[357]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
of water ; the air of the house should be maintained as cool and
moist as possible by keeping the floors and benches constantly
wet. Keep the plants shaded at least eight hours of the day.
Continue to propagate Acalyphas and Coleus for Fall and
Winter decoration.
AUGUST
Cuttings of any favorite variety of Roses may now be put in;
select, for this purpose, half -ripe wood or short- join ted wood
which has perfected its flowers. The cuttings should be taken
off with a heel or cut just below a joint. Pieces of stems about
four inches in length will be found sufficiently long for cuttings.
Insert them in a shady, sheltered comer in sandy soil and let
them remain there imtil growth commences, or, better still, insert
them singly in small pots in a glass frame and plunge the pots in
cool ashes, shading them for a few hours in the middle of the
day. They should occasionally be sprinkled overhead with
water and the frame should be kept moderately close. Frequent
attention must be given in order to maintain the flower-garden
in good and attractive condition; all spent blossoms should be
removed.
All annuals whose flowering season is over should be taken
up, the soil manured and the spaces planted with late-flowering
plants. Attend closely to the cultivation and irrigation of all
Autumn-flowering plants, such as Dahlias, Cannas, Chrysan-
themums, etc., giving copious supplies of water at the roots and
also giving manure- water as required; stir the soil frequently
and rake off all weeds.
Keep the ground about Violets well-cultivated and watered,
removing all side shoots and runners. A light mulch of half-
rotted manure will benefit them greatly during this season.
Begonias, both the fibrous-rooted and also the bulbous sec-
tions will now be in bloom. Be careful that they do not suffer
[358]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
from want of water at the roots and also overhead, for they
should be sprinkled from above in the evening. A mulching of
very old cow-manure will be foimd beneficial and will greatly
assist in prolonging their season of bloom.
Sow seeds of Anemone coronaria, mixing the seeds with fine
sand before sowing; when the seedlings are two inches high, set
them out in rows in a shady, cool, sheltered situation.
Also put in seeds of Silene pendula and Forget-me-not for
early-Spring flowering. These too should have a cool, sheltered
spot, being transplanted a few inches apart when ready; plant
them out, where it is desired that they flower, early in November.
Rocheas, as they are now classed, are very showy subjects,
especially the scarlet-flowered species (Rochea coccinea) which
blooms so freely all through July, August and September. When
it is desired to increase the stock of these, cuttings should be
inserted. They should be placed in three-inch or four-inch pots
filled with sand and old lime-mortar or brokeu brick, mixed with
a little loam. They shoxild occupy a cool position facing the
North where they will be found to readily take root. This
free-flowering succulent should be seen more commonly as it
grows and blooms freely with little care and requires no artificial
irrigation.
GREENHOUSE
The Alocacias and other ornamental, foliaged plants should
be examined from time to time for red spider. Begonia mite
and other insect pests. Should any of these appear, the leaves
should be sponged with some insecticide. It should be borne
in mind that only the injury caused by the mite and not the mite
itself is visible to the naked eye.
Streptocarpus. Keep all plants near the glass, affording
them shade in the middle of the day, and syringing them daily,
morning and evening. When necessary, change them into larger
pots, potting them in a compost of loam, leaf-mold and dry cow-
[361]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
manure taken from an open pasture. Good drainage should be
afforded and they should be kept in a temperature of seventy
degrees Fahrenheit by night and in a moist atmosphere until
showing flower, when they should be allowed a dry atmosphere.
Chrysanthemums, Be on the watch for black aphides and
green fly, and if any are discovered dust the leaves with tobacco-
powder in the early morning when the foliage is damp.
Make all growths secure by staking each stem to light stakes
so as to prevent swaying by the wind. If the pots are full of
roots, give light dressing of manure about the roots, or water
with liquid-manure about twice a week.
SEPTEMBER
Trees and shrubs which show signs of flagging should receive
attention and be given water at the roots otherwise they may
be greatly injured, especially if the weather should continue
hot as it often does during the greater part of this month.
Spanish and German Irises, having ripened their bulbs, may
now be taken up. The groimd in which they are to be replanted
should be dug deeply and well-fertilized with old rotted manure.
The bulbs should be set out early in November; in the meantime
have them sorted and placed in boxes in a cool dry place.
Propagate cuttings of all bedding plants as early in the
month as practicable so that they may be well established before
wet weather and dark days arrive.
Tuberous-rooted Begonias should now be at their best;
encourage them to prolong their flowering season by giving them
copious waterings and by giving the beds a light mulch of some
suitable material such as very old stable-manure or leaf-mold.
Beds of Asters and other annuals which have ceased to bloom
should be cleared of all old plants; if it is intended to fill the
beds for Winter and Spring flowering, have the ground spaded
over and apply a good dressing of soot. If the beds were man-
[362]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
ured in Spring, no manure will now be required. Plant the beds
with Wallflowers, Myosotis, Silene, Pansies, Aubrietias, Viola
comuta, etc., planting them as soon as convenient so that they
may get well-established before cold weather sets in. If planted
early, they should begin blooming early in December and give
abundance of flower all through the Winter and early Spring.
GREENHOUSE
Poinsettias should be fully exposed to the sunshine from the
present time on in order to mature and firm the growth.
Let the last batch of rooted plants be placed in their flower-
ing-pots, which need not be larger than six-inch and the smaller
plants will do better if given four-inch pots.
Roman Hyacinths, Paper white and Double Narcissus. Pot
about five bulbs in a six-inch pot filled with a good rich compost,
and plunge the pot in ashes for a few weeks, covering the pot
with sand or ashes to the depth of six inches, leaving it thus
until the bulbs fill the pot with their young roots. A situation
facing North is most suitable for the plunging bed. When the
pots are filled with roots, they may be brought into the green-
house and gradually exposed to the light. Pot successive lots
of bulbs so as to maintain a continuous supply of flowers from
early in November until February when they begin blooming
out of doors.
Large-flowering Hyacinths. As soon as the bulbs arrive,
have them unpacked at once and placed in a cool place imtil they
can be potted. The most important point in Hyacinth growing
is in the preparation of the soil which shoxild be composed of
good yellow loam, old dry cow-manure rubbed through a half-
inch sieve, some coarse leaf-mold, and enough sand to keep it
open. This compost should be well-mixed together by being
turned over several times, and should be left to mellow at least
one month before being used. For single bulbs of Hyacinths,
[363]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
use a pot having a diameter of five inches. Crock the pot by
placing one flat piece of crock over the hole in the bottom of the
pot; over this place two inches of potsherds broken into small
pieces, and, to keep the soil from choking the drainage, above
these place a thin layer of moss; then fill the pot loosely with
the soil, making a hole with the hand for the reception of the
bulb and placing a handful of sand in the cavity; on this place
the bulb ; press down the bulb and soil together and make the soil
firm with the fingers, leaving the crown of the bulb a little above
the soil. Give a good watering and place out of doors on a bed
of ashes on a site with a Northern exposure and cover to the depth
of six inches as previously advised for Roman Hyacinths. Here
they should remain for about six weeks when they should be
examined, and, when the pots are well-filled with roots, they may
be removed to a cool place in the greenhouse and gradually
exposed to light and air or to warmer quarters if desired to
flower early.
Hyacinths, to flower in glasses, should be solely of the single-
flowering varieties, and only good-sized firm bulbs should be
selected. Nearly fill the glasses with soft water (rain water
preferred); in the water place a few small pieces of charcoal;
place the bulbs in the glasses so that the bases barely touch the
water and place the glasses in a cool, dark situation imtil the roots
nearly fill the glasses, when they may be placed in the greenhouse
and gradually exposed to light but free from cold draughts.
When it is desirable to transfer, to glasses. Hyacinths which
have been grown in pots, their roots may be freed from soil by
carefully dipping the ball in water and washing the roots, after
which they may be placed in the Hyacinth glasses. A fresh
batch of bulbs should be potted at intervals of three weeks imtil
November, after which the bulbs seem to deteriorate.
When desired. Tulips, Scillas, Crocuses, etc., may be grown.
The soil and treatment recommended for Hyacinths will be
suitable for them also.
[364]
Summer Houie. SUndard Roses on Border of Path.
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
OCTOBER
Pinks and Carnations. Cuttings and layers which were put
in in July should now be well-rooted and ready to be planted in
their permanent quarters. Examine the soil, and, if it looks the
least sour or sticky, have it dug and left rough, giving it no water
for at least two weeks; this treatment will greatly assist in
sweetening the soil. After the soil has been well dried and aired,
give it a good watering and again turn it over with the spade;
level it, and, after raking it, mark the ground and plant the yoimg
plants, setting them out about eight inches apart. Do not allow
the roots to become at all dry before they are planted. After
planting, give a good watering with the watering-pot to settle the
soil about the roots, afterwards giving a light sprinkle to the
leaves. A light spraying every evening for a week after planting
will greatly benefit the young plants.
Dahlias should still afford a good show of flowers. See that
they are all correctly labeled before the blooming season is over;
remove all spent flowers and decaying leaves, and give copious
suppUes of light Uquid-manure during dry weather.
Chrysanthemums will now be showing bloom. Give them
also a generous supply of water at their roots and apply liquid-
manure once a week. When large flowers are desired, thin out
the flower-buds to one bud to each stalk and see that the stems
are well-secured by being tied to light stakes to prevent them
being blown about by the Autunm winds.
Fibrous-rooted Begonias, which have been occupying space in
the flower-garden during the Simtuner, may now, if thought
desirable, be taken up, potted and taken to the greenhouse where
they will continue to flower most of the Winter. It is well to
shade the plants for a week or ten days, after placing them in-
doors, until they form new roots.
Anemones may be planted during the present month; plant
[367]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
them six inches apart. One-half inch of soil should cover the
crowns, and any good friable garden soil grows them well.
Plant Cowslips, hardy Primroses, Cinerarias, Pansies and
other early Spring-flowering plants in their permanent quarters.
GREENHOUSE
Cinerarias. The more forward plants should now be put
into three-inch pots in a compost of loam, two-thirds leaf-soil and
one-third dry cow-manure from an open pasture, with a little
sand and a sprinkling of bone-meal added. Let them stand
on a bed of ashes in a protected spot facing North.
Calceolarias. Pot off the young plants of Calceolarias in
two-inch pots and treat as recommended for Cinerarias.
Primulas. The early plants will soon begin to show their
flower-spikes. If the pots are full of roots, give them a little
weak liquid-manure occasionally. Later plants, now in three-
inch pots, should be transferred to others, five inches in diameter,
if they are already well-rooted. This treatment will be suitable
for not only Primula sinensis but also Primula stellata (a type
which should be more conimonly seen) and Primula obconica;
if well done, this will enable them to continue in bloom through-
out the Winter.
Caladiums. Where the more delicate varieties are grown,
great care should be given them at this season. Many tubers are
lost every year by being dried too rapidly. As soon as the leaves
show signs of dying off, the plants should be placed in a position
where they may receive the full light and be watered carefully;
reduce the quantity of water as the foliage decays, and discon-
tinue it altogether when the foliage is all dry. When the tubers
are ripe, allow the soil in the pots to become perfectly dry.
The pots may be laid on their sides under the plant-stage or in
any dry place where the temperature does not fall below fifty
degrees Fahrenheit; they may remain there imtil wanted in early
Spring.
[368]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
Ferns, which have been growing in a close and moist atmos-
phere, should now be allowed more light and air, as soon as their
growth is completed, in order to harden their fronds, as in this
condition they are better prepared to withstand the cloudy days
which may be expected during the next three months.
NOVEMBER
Keep the lawn well-rolled and smoothly cut, removing all
faUen leaves. These can be much more easily swept up when
the grass is smooth and short than when it is otherwise. The
walks should be kept weU rolled and their edgings neatly cut.
When walks, edgings and lawns are neatly kept, the garden
always looks well even though flowers and color may be scarce.
Examine Lily bulbs carefully as soon as their leaves have
fallen and their stems are dead, to see if they are attacked by
wire-worms. Should cut, wire or other worms be found at work
in the bulbs, take the bulbs up at once and dip them in water
strongly diluted with soot, and, as soon as the bulbs have been
cleared of the pest, plant them, in a different part of the garden,
in fresh soil in which no worms or other vermin are to be found.
The soil should be rich and soft with no rocks or hard clay in its
composition. Plant so that the top of the bulb will be two or
three inches under the soil.
Tuberous Begonias, which have ceased to grow or flower,
should have their stems cleared of all decaying leaves, and their
tubers lifted and shaken clear of soil; place them in boxes half-
filled with sandy leaf-mold, and store in a cool dry place where
they may be kept imtil required for replanting in the Spring.
Dahlias also, as soon as their tops are ripe and their flowering
ceases, should have their stems cut down to within a foot of the
ground and their roots lifted and freed from all soil. After
attaching labels to each, place them in a cool, dry shed for a few
weeks and then store them away for the Winter.
[369]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Montbretias, where they have got matted too thickly, should
be taken up and the best bulbs selected and replanted m other
quarters, or, if in the same ground, after the soil has been dug
over two feet deep and enriched by a heavy layer of manure well-
mixed through the soil.
Other hardy bulbs, such as Iris Kaempferi, and Iris Ger-
manica as well as the Spanish and English varieties, should be
closely examined, and, if the bulbs are at all crowded, taken up.
Have the ground spaded and enriched by a heavy coating of
manure and then replant the plants. Most of the Iris prefer a
moist situation and a rich soil.
Lobelia cardinalis. Cut down old flower-stems and divide
the crowns; replant them, where they are desired to bloom, in
good rich loam. This same treatment may be given to the her-
baceous plants such as perennial Phlox, Doronicums, Delphi-
niums, Kniphofias, etc. Vacant spaces may still be planted with
Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils and other Spring- flowering bulbs,
planting as recommended m a former month.
Myosotis should be planted freely in any dry bank as soon
as the rains have sufficiently moistened the soil.
Primroses and Cowslips (if this has not already been done)
should have the crowns divided and replanted singly about six
inches apart after the soil has been cultivated and enriched.
Canterbury Bells may be set out in suitably prepared spots.
These plants look exceedingly well in clumps or groups. Plant
them about eighteen inches apart and not too deep.
When it is desirable to plant evergreen shrubs or trees, No-
vember is one of the best months for doing the work. Camel-
lias, Rhododendrons, Magnolias, Laurels, Pittosporums and
other hardy evergreens move well at this season. See that the
soil is in good condition, neither too wet so that it becomes sticky
with working, nor so dry that it does not break softly. It should
be moist, without being wet or soggy, so that it will rest kindly
among the fine fibrous roots. Working the soil among the roots
[370]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
with the fingers is still the best way to manage this very import-
ant part of transplanting either flowering plants or shrubs.
GREENHOUSE
Palms and other smooth-leaved evergreens, such as Cro-
tons, Marantas, Cycas, etc., which may be infested with scale,
should be carefully sponged and cleaned, using a little soap and
plenty of clean tepid water. Keep Cyclamen plants near the
roof-glass. Should any of the plants require repotting, pot them
in a compost of three parts good friable loam and one part leaf-
mold with enough silver-sand to keep the soil free and open.
Should the foliage be attacked by Mites, which will be shown
first by the rusty appearance of the foliage, dip the leaves in a
strong solution of tobacco-water, two or three times, at intervals
of two days. Keep at a temperature of about fifty degrees
Fahrenheit.
Calceolarias. In order to have healthy, strong plants, careful
attention must be paid to their roots; repotting at the proper
time is very essential. Should the operation be delayed too long
the plants become stunted and rarely recover from the neglect.
They should be moved just as soon as the roots have well-occu-
pied the soil. Keep the plants in a cool half-shaded position
away from fire-heat and dry air. While giving them plenty of
ventilation, no cold draughts should be allowed to reach their
foliage. Should green fly attack the leaves, fumigate at once,
and, if necessary, two evenings in succession, until all trace of the
aphides disappears.
DECEMBER
When Lawns or grass edges have become uneven or in bad
condition or partially worn, this will be foimd a good month to
relay the sod. Low spots should have the sod raised. This is
done by taking up the sod and leveling up with good rich soil,
[373]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
then relaying the sod and afterwards rolling or tamping it with
the back of the spade until the whole is level and even.
Where grass edgings are worn, the sod should be taken up
(being cut in squares of about one foot) and placed on the oppo-
site side of the walk. After giving the ground a good coating of
old manure, spade to the depth of twelve inches, breaking up the
soil as fine as possible with the spade. Level and rake the ground
into shape and relay the sod, putting each square into place as
neatly as possible. Give a light sprinkling of sifted soil and a
good soaking of water; the following day, tamp level with the
back of the spade, making the whole solid and hard. After
edging into line it should look as well as an old estabhshed lawn.
Where new groimds are to be laid out and much planting to be
done, December is one of the best months for the carrying for-
ward of this work, also for the planting of most of our hardy trees
and shrubs.
Plant deciduous trees and shrubs, also Cypress, Pine, Laurel,
Euonymus, Box and all hardy evergreens, leaving Eucalyptus,
Pittosporum and most of the Australian groups until March.
The pruning of Roses should be attended to this month; cut
out, first, all weak or sickly growths and cut back all unripe soft
shoots to firm, mature wood.
Climbers should have their shoots thinned out where they are
at all matted; cut out all hard, weak wood which does not pro-
duce strong, young shoots. After pruning, tie all straggUng
shoots into place, and mulch with good manure about the roots
of all Roses whether grown as standards, on trellises or in beds,
leaving the mulching to be washed in by the Winter rains. Plant
Roses in ground well trenched and manured.
GREENHOUSE
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. Propagate this plant by means
of the leaves; remove the leaves, with a sharp knife, close down
[374]
CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
to the base of the leaf-stems, and place them in shallow pans
filled with clean sharp sand or light sandy leaf-mold, selecting
strong leaves for cuttings.
Climbers should be freed from superfluous shoots, all growths
too weak to produce flowers being removed and the strong shoots
shortened.
If any scale or other insects be found among the leaves or
stems, the plants should be taken from the trellises and thor-
oughly cleaned.
See that Poinsettias and other flowering-plants are carefully
watered at the roots and their flowers and bracts kept away from
drip and damp.
Keep all paths clean and give air freely during warm weather,
opening the ventilators in the early part of the day and shutting
them up again as soon as the temperature begins to fall in the
afternoon. See that the foliage of all plants is kept clean and
free from insects.
I375I
INDEX
INDEX
Page
Aaron's Beasd (Saxifraga sarmen-
tosa) 274
Abelia 26,60
floribunda 60
rupestris ...... 30,33,60
serrata 60
triflora 60
Abies (Fir) 30i 33, 63
amabilis 63
balsamea 60, 63
bracteata 63
cephalonica 63
concolor 63
Douglasii 63
grandis 63
magnifica . . - 63
Mertensiana 61,63
Morinda 60, 63
nobilis 63
Nordmannia 30, 63
Pattoniana 63
pectinata 63
Abutilon (Bell-flower) .... 64
admiration 64
Boule de Niege 64
fire king 64
purpurea 64
Acacia 13,23,26,30,48,64,326,341
armata 23,33,65
Baileyana 65
calamifolia • . 65
cultriformis 22,65
dealbata 21,22,65
decurrens 65
floribunda 33*65
fragrans 23
latifolia. . . . 23,26,28,30,33
lineata 65
longifolia .... 30,64,65,325
lophantha 65
melanoxylon .... 20, 26, 65
momssima
. . 21,22,24,26,28,30,33,64,65
Page
AcAaA — Continued
pycnantha 65
Riceana 65
ACALYPHA 349,358
Acanthus 225
mollis latifolius 225
niger 225
spinosus 225
Acer (Maple) 66
campestre (English Maple) 33, 66
circinatum 66
Japonicum (Japanese Maple) . 66
macrophyllum 66
negundo . - . . . . . . 66
palmatum 66,67
saccharinum (Sugar Maple) . 66
Schwedleri 32,66
AcHANiA (Turk's Cap) 67
achdcenes 340
acroclinium . . . . . . .225
Adiantum 299,339
CapiUus-veneris 204
iEscuLUS (Horse-chestnut) , . . .67
Califomica (Common Buckeye) 68
camea 68
glabra (Ohio Buckeye) ... 68
hippocastanum 68
Agapanthus (African Lily) . . .182
Agave (Century-plant) 216
Ageratum 226
Agrosteuma 226
coronaria 226
Albizzia Julibrissin . 26, 30, 33, 68, 327
Alder (Alnus) . . . .69,324
Allspice (See Calycanthus) . . .77
Almond (See Amygdalus) .... 70
Alnus (Alder) 69,324
Alocasia 294,340,361
Aloe 219,342
ciliaris 219
vera 219
Aloyslv citriodora (Sweet scented
Verbena) 69
[379]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Alsophila australis 204
Altera rosea (Hollyhock) . .226
Alternanthera . . 335»342,350i3S3
Alyssum 228,342
alpestre (sweet) 228
saxatile 228
Amarantus 228
bicolor 228
salicifolius 228
tricolor 228
Amaryllis 182
Belladonna 182
Imantophyllum miniatum .183
Vallota purpurea 183
Ammophila arenaria (Sea Bent
Grass) 320
Ampelopsis 28, 171
quinquefolia (Virginia-creeper) . 171
tricuspidata (Boston Ivy) . . .171
Amygdalus (Almond) 70
Anemone. . . 228,334,341,357,367
coronaria .... 228,356,361
fulgens 229
hepatica 228
Japonica 228, 229
Annuals. . . 334, 34i,35o> 358,361
Antirrhinum (Snapdragon)
229,336,350,353
majus 229
Aphides (Green or Brown Fly)
. . . 273,303,304,362,373
black 304,362
Aphis 362
Aponogeton 346
Apple (See P3rrus) . . . 32,148,330
Approaches to House .... 5
Apricot 32, 330
April 346
Aquilegia (Columbine) .... 230
cxrulea 230
chrysantha 230
glandulosa 230
ArABIS 2?9,342
Aralia 22, 107
Araucaria 70,326
Bidwilli 70
brasiliana 70
Page
Araucaria — Continued
Cookii 70
1 excelsa 33,7©
imbricata ... . . 33,70
Arbutus 71
Menziesii (Madrone) . . • 71
Unedo (Strawberry Tree) .
21,24,28.30,71
Areca 294
Baurii 294
lutescens 294
sapida 194
Aristolochia 171
sipho (Dutchman's pipe) . . .171
AROiDEiE 191
Arundinaria 208, 211
falcata 208,211
Hindsia 211
Japonica 211
M6tak6 208
Simonii 211
Arundo 212,215,286
conspicua 212,215
Donax 212,215
Ash (See Fraxinus) iii
mountain. (See Pynis aucuparia) 149
mountain. (See Sorbus aucu-
paria) 157
Asparagus plumosus 339
Sprengeri 339
Aspect op Site i
Aspidistra lurida 294
lurida variegatf ..... 294
\splenium 204, 299
Aster 188,230,335,342,362
Chinese annual 230
AUBRIETIA DELTOIDEA . . . 231,363
AucuBA Japonica 21, 22, 23, 24, 26,32, 71
aurea 71
bicolor 71
picta alba variegata .... 71
August 358
Auricula 342
Australian Blue-bell . . 157
Australian Flame Tree. (See
Sterculia) 160
[380]
INDEX
Page
AusTiiALiAN Gum. (See Eucalyptus)
Azalea 32,72,345,348
AzASA Mackofhylla . . . . 33, 73
Balsam. (See Imp^tiens) . . .253
Bamboos 22,23,26,28,30,33,36,208,212
213,286,294,326,346
and Grasses.
Arundinaria falcata
Arundinaria Hindsia
Arundinaria Japonica
Arundinaria M6tak6
Arundinaria Simonii
Bambusa aurea
Bambusa marmorea
Bambusa palmata .
Bambusa quadrangularis
. . . 13
14,
grouping of . . .
in Parlor-Gardening
Phyllostachys aurea
Phyllostachys henonis .
Phyllostachys nigra .
planting of ... .
propagation of . . .
see Bambusa
situation for.
water for ....
Banksia
Barberry. (See Berberis)
Barley-seed. ...
Basins (Soil) for Water Plants
Baskets, Hanging . . .
Wicker
Bedding Plants . . .
Beech. (See Fagus sylvatica)
Begonia 231, 294, 296, 333, 336, 339, 340,
341, 346, 349, 353, 355, 358, 362, 367, 369
Gloire de Lorraine . . 349, 374
rubra 231
Vernon 231,232
Begonia mite 361
Bell-flower. (See Abutilon) . . 64
Bellis perennis (Daisy) . . . .232
Benches, rustic 41
Benthamia 74
Berberis 74
Aquifolium 74
buxifolia 75
. 208
208, 211
. 211
. 211
. 208
. 211
. 208
. 212
. 212
. 212
208, 212
. 294
. 211
208, 212
212
208, 286
. 211
208, 211
. 208
209,211
. 73
74
319
285
339
346
225
107
Page
Berberis — Continued
Darwinii 30, 74
Japonica 75
loxensis 75
nepalensis 74
stenophylla 75
Bermuda Grass 58
Betula alba 75
Bignonia 24,172
capreolata 172
Cherere 172
diversifolia 172
floribunda 172
Tweediana 24, 172
venusta 172
Birch, groups of . . . 13, 14, 208, 286
(See Betula alba) . . . 23,33,75
Blechnum brasiliense .... 204
Spicant 204
BoccoNiA 233
cordata 233
frutescens 233
integrifolia 233
Bone Meal 349
Bordeaux Mixture . . . 244, 303
Boston Fern. (See Nephrolepis
exaltata) 294,339
Bottom Heat 318
Bottoming roads and walks ... 44
Bougainvillea 22, 173
glabra 173
lateritia 173
Saundersiana 173
speciosa 173
BOUVARDIA 75
augustifolia 75
jasminiflora 76
scabra 75
Boxes (Soil) for Water Plants . 286
Boxwood (Tree). (SeeBuxus).
.... 22,24,26,28,30,76,374
Breath of Heaven. (See Diosma) . 97
Broom. (See Cytisus) . 23, 94
Spanish. (See Spartium junceum) 158
Buckeye. (See iEsculus) .... 67
Buckthorn. (See Rhamnus) . . .152
Budding 311
[381]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Bulbous and Tuberous-Rooted
Plants . 182
Bulbs, division op 317
in Window-box 296
examination of 369
Butternut. (Seejuglans) . . .120
Buxus (Tree Boxwood) .... 76
balearica 76
Japonica 76
Japonica microphylla .... 76
longifolia 76
sempervirens 20, 23, 32
suffruticosa 76
Cactus 216,220,296,342
Caladil^ 340, 345 » 368
esculentum 294,341
Calandrinia 233
Calandrinia caulescens. (See Por-
tulaca) 266
Calceolaru . . . 3S3» 355*368, 373
Calendar of Operations . . .329
January 330
February 334
March 341
April 346
May 349
June 353
July 356
August 358
September 362
October 367
November 369
December 373
Calendula 234
Callistemon . . . 21,23,30,33,77
Calochortus (Mariposa Lily) . .183
Calycanthus (Carolina Allspice) . 77
Camellia . . . 28,32,78,326,370
Campanula 234, 296, 341
carpatica .... 234,356,370
Medium (Canterbury Bells) . . 234
pyramidalis 234
Camphor-tree. (See Laurus
camphora) . 24,2628,33,124,338,
Canary Islands Date-palm . . . 308
Candytuft. (See Iberis) .... 253
Canna (Indian shot) . 235, 347, 358
Page
Canna — Continued
indica 235
Canterbury Bells. (See Campan-
ula) 234,356,370
Caragana 78
Carnation. (See Dianthus cary-
ophyllus) . 24, 26, 28, 242, 299, 341 ,
350. 354, 356, 367
Carpinus Betulus (Hornbeam) . . 79
Carya (Hickory Tree) 79
alba (Shellbark Hickory) ... 79
olivefonnis (Pecan-nut Tree) . . 79
Caryophyllus 242
Cassia 80
corymbosa 80
marilandica 80
sophera 80
Castanea (Chestnut) 80
Casuarina (She-oak) 81
Catch-ply (Silene) . . . 275, 298, 363
Caterpillars .... 273,306,307
Ceanothus (California Lilac) ... 81
Cedars, Grouping op 13
Incense. (See Libocedrus) . .128
of Lebanon 82,326
(SeeCednis) 82
Cedrua 82
Atlantica 33,82
Atlantica glauca 82
Deodora .... 30,33,82,326
Libani (Cedar of Lebanon) . 30, 82
Celosia 236,333,336
Centaurea (Corn-flower) . .236
ragusina 236
Century-plant. (See Agave). . .216
Cerasus Zz
ilicifolia 83
Lauro-Cerasus (English Laurel)
21,23,30,83
serrulata 83
Portugal Laurel 83
CERas (Judas Tree) 84
Cereus 220
Emoryii 221
giganteus 221
Cestrum 23,84
aurantiacum 21,84
[382]
INDEX
Page
Cestrum — Continued
elegans 84
fasciculatum 84
Chail£Rops 194
excelsa 194
humilis 194
Cheikanthus (Wallflower) . .237
Cherry 28,32,33,304
Weeping Japanese .148
Chestnut. (See Castanea) ... 80
• Horse. (See ^Esculus) . . 33, 67
Chinese Pink. (See Dianthus) . . 244
Choisya ternata
. . . 20,21,22,23,26,28,32,33,85
Chrysanthemum 237, 348, 354, 355, 356,
358,361,362,367
anemone 238
incurved 238
Japanese 238
Pompones' 238
recur\'ed 238
Cineraria 238, 333, 334, 353, 355, 357, 368
Cistus (Rock-rose) 28, 85
Citrus Aurantium (Sweet Orange) . 86
Decumana (Shaddock) ... 86
Japonica 86
Limetta (Lime) 86
Limonum (Lemon) 86
nobilis (Mandarin) .... 86
trifoliata 86
vulgaris (Bitter Orange) ... 86
Clay — ^Treatment of . . 38, 54
Use in puddling lakes and ponds 282
Clematis 22,24,28,173
paniculata 173
Clethra 87
arborea 87
quercifolia 87
Clianthus 87
puniceus 20,30,87
Climbers AXD Twiners . 171,330,354,
374, 375
Clover 58
Cob^:a scandexs 174
Cock's-comb 350
Cocos 197
australis 197
Page
Cocos — Continued
plumosa . . .9,195,197,294
Coffee-tree, Kentucky. (See Gym-
nocladus) ;ii5
Coffee, Wild. (See Rhamnus) . .152
Cold or Cool Frame 317
CoLEUS . . 340,345,349.350,355.358
COLLINSLA 342
Columbine. (See AquUegia) . 230, 341
Conservatory — ^The Amateur's.
(See Greenhouse) 299
Construction of Roads and Walks 40
CopROSMA (New Zealand Holly) . . 88
COPROSMA BAUERIANA
. . . 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 28, 32, 33
picturata 88
variegata 88
Coral-tree. (See Erythrina) ... 99
Coral Bush. (See Templetonia) . .164
Coreopsis 239,342
Corn-flower. (See Centaurea) . .
236,336,342,350
Cornucopia Flower. (See Datura) 95
CoRNUS (Dogwood) 88
florida 89
Nuttallii 88
sanguinea 89
Coronilla 28,89
corynecarpus ... 23, 28, 30, 33, 89
corypha australis 294
Cosmos 239,345
COTONEASTER 30,90
Cottonwood. (See Populus) . . .324
Cotyledon (Echeveria) . . . .221
Cowslip. (See Primula) 267,349,368,370
Crassula . . 216,221,222,342
arborescens 221,222
coccinea 222
Crat^gus (Hawthorn) 20,30,90
Cream-cup. (See Platystemon) . . 265
Crocus 183,367
Croton 373
Crowning roads and walks . . .42
Cryptomeria 33,93
CuPRESSUS (Cypress) 93
Lawsoniana 20, 23, 28, 32. 33, 93
Monterey 93
(383]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
CupRESSUS — Continued
Nutkaensis 91
sempervirens (Italian C>press) 93
Cuttings, PROPAGATION BY . . . '3x5
in hot-bed 317
Cycas 373
Cyclamen 373
Cydonia Japonica (Japanese Quince)3 2, 94
alba 94
Cyperus 346
Cypress. (See Cupressus) ....
• • • 13132,33,48,93,222,326,374
Italian 93,359
Montezuma. (See Taxodium) . 163
Swamp. (See Taxodium) . .163,286
Monterey . . 24, 26, 28, 93, 324, 325
Cystopteris fragilis 204
Cytisus (Broom) 94
racemosus 28,94
Daffodil. (See Narcissus)
188,296,334,370
Dahlia . . 240,335,342,347,350,354.
356,358,367,369
imperialis 240
Juarezii 240
variabilis 240
Daisy. (See Bellis perennis) . .232
Transvaal. (See Gerberia Jamie-
sonii) 249
Dandelion 59
Daphne 23, 28, 95
Datura (Cornucopia flower) ... 95
arborea 95
comigera 95
sanguinea 95
suaveolens 95
Davallia 299,339
Deciduous trees, shrubs and
climbers .... 48,330,374
December 373
Delphinium (Larkspur) .24,242,370
Deodar 326
Deutzia 20,96,356
crenata 96
gracilis 96
DiANTHUS CARYOPHYLLUS (Camation) 242
DiANTHUS 244,345
Page
244
244
204
294
DiANTHUS — Continued
Chinese Pink (Chinensis) .
Sweet William (barbatus) .
dicksonia antarctica
Dieffenbachia
DiERVILLA OR WeIGELA
20,22,23,24,28,33,96
Digitalis (Foxglove) . . .245,342
DioSMA (Breath of Heaven) . . .
26, 28,32,97
Directions AND Explanations . . 309
Diseases of Plants. (See Insects) . 302
Nature and Causes of . . . 302
mildew 301*
Ditches — ^drainage 39
Division of the Bulbs . .317
Dock 59
Dogwood. (See Comus) .... 88
DoLiCHOS 174
DoRONicuM 245,334,370
DRACiENA . .46, 299
Terminalis 293
Drainage 38
ditches 39
tiles 38
with clay soil 38
with rocks 38
pipe 39
Drains — tile 38
Drives, location of 5
(See Roads and Lawns)
DuRANTA Plumieri 28, 97
Dutchman's Pipe. (See Aristolochia
sipho) 171
Dusting plants 303
with tobacco 304
with sulphur 305,306
ECCREMOCARPUS 1 74
EcHEVERiA (Cotyledon) 221,222, 342
ECHINOC ACTUS 220
polycephalus 220
viridescens 220
EcmuM (Viper's bugloss) . . . .97
Elder. (See Sambucus) . . .155,324
El^agnus (Wild Olive) .... 98
Elm. (SeeUlmus) . .23,26,167,326
ErIANTHUS R.WENNiE 212
[384]
INDEX
Page
Ekica (Heath) 33, 98
arborea 99
capitata 99
gracilis 99
hybrida 99
hyemalis 99
Mediterranea 20,99
melanthera 99
persoluta 33i98,99
ventricosa 99
Wilhnorei 99
Erythea 197
armata (Blue Palm) .... 197
edulis ' . 197
Eeythrina (Coral-tree) . . . 30, 99
Humei 99
Indica 99
EscALLONiA 20,32,100
Monte\'idensis . .28, 32, 100
rosea •22, 23, 24, 30, 100
rubra 21,33,100
EscHSCHOLTZiA (California Poppy)
245,336,342
Eucalyptus (Australian Gum) . .
• . 13,48,54,103,323,325,341,374
amygdalina 104
comuta 103
corymbosa 104
corynocalyx 104
ficifolia 32, loi, 103
globulus (Blue Gum) . 103, 104,325
leucoxyla 103
Landsdownlana 103
piperita 103
pyriformis 103
saligna 103
sideroxylon 104
tetragonus 103
viminalis 104
Eugenia 105
latifolia or Smithiana . . 23,32,105
myrtifolia 105
EULALIA JaPONICA . 212,215,286
EuoNYMUS (Spindle-tree) ....
. . . . 20,21,22,24,33,105,374
grandiflorus 106
Japonica 23, 106
Page
EuoNYMUS — Continued
Japonica argentea io6
Japonica aurea io6
Japonica Due de Anjou . . . io6
latifolia io6
Euphorbia 333
Evergreens — ^time for planting 47
ExogbOr^ (Spirsea grandiflora) . . 106
Explanations and Directions . . 309
Fabiana T07
Fagus sylvatica (Beech) . . . .107
False Nutmeg Tree. (See Torreya) . i66
Fatsia 107
horrida 108
Japonica 108
pap3Tifera io8
February 334
Feather-grass 212
Ferns 32, 203, 205, 294,
299,301,339,357,369
Adiantum Capillus veneris . 204
Alsophila australis .... 204
A-plenium 204
Blechnum brasiliense .... 204
Blechnum spicant 204
Boston 294, 339
Cystopteris fragilis .... 204
Davallia 339
Deer 204
Dickson ia antarctica .... 204
Five-finger 204, 294
Lastraea 204
Lygodium scandens .... 339
Osmunda 204
Poljrpodium 204
Polystichum 204
Pteris argyrsea 294
Pteris cretica 294
Pteris tremula 204
Scolopendrium 204
Woodsia 204
Woodwardia .... 204, 294
formaUon of fernery .... 203
growing in pots 207
planting 207
rockery for . . . 203, 204, 209
soil for 203
[385]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Ferns — Continued
sword 204
tree 204, 205
watering 204
Fertilizer, in sand reclamation . 325
Feverfew. (See Pyrethnim) . . . 267
Ficus (Rubber Tree) 108, 109, 340
elastica 109, 293
Fig. (See Ficus) ... 32, 108, 109
Indian. (See Opuntia or Prickly
Pear) 220
Fir. (See Abies) 63
Grouping of 13, 41
Pitch. (See Picea) .142
Fir-tree Oil 304
Formal Approach 359
gardening 43i32i
ForgAt-me-not. (See Myosotis) 258, 361
in window-box 298
Foot-path. (See Walks) ....
Foxglove. (See Digitalis) .245,342
Frames, cool or cold 317
garden 317
hot 317
Fraxinus (Ash). Ill
excelsior iii
Fruit Trees 26, 330
Fuchsia 18, 21, 24, 26, 28, 246, 247, 296, 346
FUNKIA 346
Fumigation OF greenhouse . . .
304,306,373
by tent 307
Gaillardia 345,350
Garden, selection OF site for i
preliminary plans for ... . i
planting of 6,12
water for 281
frames 317
formal 321
Gardenia 112
Fortuni 28, 112
radicans major 112
Gardening, parlor 293
formal 321
Gateway, location of ... . 5
Gazania 249
Genista 113
Page
Geranium (Pelargonium) . 21, 26, 28
262,294,296,299,346
ivy 28,295
Gerberia Jamiesonii (Transvaal
Daisy) 249
Gesneria 353
Geum 250
GiLiA 250
Ginkgo (Maidenhair-tree) . 28,33,113
biloba laciniata 1 13
biloba pendula 1 13
Gladiolus 251,341,356
Gleditschia (Honey Locust) . .113
aquatica 114
Chinese 114
Japanese 114
Gloxinia 340
Golden Chain. (See Laburnum) . 122
Golden Feather. (See P>Tethrum) 267
Grading 6,37
roads and walks . 40, 44
for lawns 55
for lakes and ponds .... 282
Grafting 314
cleft 314
saddle 314
side 314
whip 314
Grasses 56,212
Bermuda 58
feather (Stipa pennata) .212
for lawns 56
grouping mixed 212
Kentucky Blue 56
orchard 212
Pampas 212,215,217
Rye, English and Australian . 56, 58
Sea Bent .... 320,323,324
seeds 55
walks 321
Green or brown fly. (See Aphides) .
• . 273,303,336,347,348,362,373
Greenhouse. (See Conservatory) . 299
fumigation of . . . 304,306,373
care of — ^January 333
Februar>' 336
March. . . . 342,345
[386]
INDEX
Greenhouse — Continued
care of — ^April . .
May .
June . .
July . .
August 361
September .... 363
October 368
November . -373
December 374
Grevillea 114
fasciculata 114
junip>erina 114
punicea 114
robusta .... 22,23,30,33,114
saligna 114
Thelemanniana 114
vestita H4
Ground, preparation of . . . 37i 374
grading of 37
grading for roads and walks 40
draining 38
for lawns 54
platting 6
plowing 37i40,47
rolling 40
trenching 37
Grounds, arrangeicent of lawns,
TREES and shrubs IN . . . 12
preliminary plans for . .1,2,12
surveying and platting of . . . 6
Grouping trees and shrubs . 13
flowers 17
Gum. (See Eucalyptus) .... 103
Blue 103, 104, 325
Red 325
Sweet. (See Liquidambar) .129
Gymnocladus (Kentucky Coffee-tree) 115
Gymnogramma 299
Habrothamnus ....".. 33
Hakea 115
Halesia 115
hispida 115
Hanging Baskets 339
replanting of 339
Harrowing 37,40
Hawthorn. (See Crataegus) 23, 24, 26,32,90
Page Page
Hawthorn — Continued
. 348 Groups of 13
. 353 Heat, bottom 318
. 354 Heath. (See Erica) 98
. 357 Hedera Helix (Ivy) 175
Hedge 33o»35i
Helianthus (Sunflower) . . . .251
multiflorus 252
Heliotrope. . . . 24,252,296,335
common or Peruvianum . . .252
Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 225
Heteromeles arbutifolia . . .13
serratifolia 28, 141
Heuchera 252
sanguinea 252
Hickory. (See Carya) .... 79
Holly. (See Hex) 33i "7
native 13, 141
New Zealand. (See Coprosma) . 88
Hollyhock. (See Althaea rosea) . .
226,336,342,356
Honeysuckle. (See Lonicera) . .
22,24,28,33,177
English 177
Japanese 178
Scrub. (See Banksia) .... 73
Hornbeam. (See Carpinus Betulus) . 79
Horse-chestnut. (See iEsculus) . . 67
Hose 17
Hot-bed 317
Hot frame 317
HousELEEK. (See Semj>ervivum) . . 224
House, selection of site for . . i
Hyacinth . . . 184,296,306,333,
334,363,364,370
wood. (See Scilla) . .191
Hydrangea 23,26,116
hortensis 116
Dr. Hogg 116
Japonica 116
paniculata 116
Hymenosporum flavum . 28,30,33,116
Hypericum 117
Androsaemum 117
Moserianum 117
patulum 117
Iberis (Candytuft) 253
[387]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Ilex (Holly) 24,117
opaca 118
iBtPATiENS 253
Balsam 253
Sultani 253
Indian fig. (See Opuntia) .220
Indian shot. (See Canna) . 235
Indigofera 118
australis 119
decora 119
tinctoria 119
Insects injurious to plants .302, 336
Aphides or Green Fly . 273, 303, 336
Black Fly 304
Caterpillars ..... 273, 306
fumigation for . . . 304, 305, 307
in window-box . 298
Mite 361,373
Red Spider 305,306
Rose-leaf roller . . 348
Slugs 307
Scale 307, 3o8» 336
Thrips 304
Mealy-bug 339
locHROMA 119
grandiflora 119
lanceolata 119
tubulosa 119
IPOMceA 175,345
Iresine . . . .254,335,342,350,353
Iris 185,334,346,362
florentina 185
Germanica 185, 370
Japanese 286,346
Ksempferi 185,370
major 334
pumila 185
reticulata 334
susiana 185
tectorum 185
IsoLEPis 340
Itea 119
Virginica 119
Ivy. (See Hedera Helix) . 22,175,334
Boston. (See Ampelopsis tri-
cuspidata) 171,334
Ixia 185
Page
Jacaranda 120
January 330
Japanese Pagoda Tree. (See So-
phora) 157
Japanese Weeping Cherry. (See
Prunus) 147
Jasmine. (See Jasminiun officinale). 176
Jasminum . . 175
nudiflorum 28, 176
officinale (Jasmine) .176
Jonquil. (See Narcissus Jonquilla). 190
JuB^A 197
spectabilis (Wine Palm) . 49, 197
Judas Tree. (See Cercis) ... 84
Juglans 120
Califomica 120
cinerea (Butternut) . . .120
nigra (Eastern Black Walnut) . 120
regia (English Walnut) . . . 1 20
Sieboldiana 120
July 356
June 353
Juniper. (See Juniperus) .22, 24,121,222
JUNiPERUS 30,33,121
Bermudiana 120
Califomica 120
Chinensis 28, 1 2 1
communis 120
Fortunis 120
procumbens 120
sabina 120
Suecica 120
prostrata 24, 28, 30
Virginiana 120
Kennedya 176
Kentia Belmoriana 293
Kentucky Blue Grass 56, 57
Kentucky Coffee-tree. (See Gym-
nocladus) 115
Kerria 122
Kniphofia (Redhot Poker Plant) . 186, 370
Kcelreuteria paniculata .122
Laburnum (Golden Chain) . 28,30,122
Adami 122
«
vulgare 122
aureum 122
" involutum 122
[388]
INDEX
Page
Laburnum — Continued
vulgare quercifolium . .122
" Watereri 122
Lady Washinxton. (See Pelargon-
ium) 262
Lagerstrcemia (Crape Myrtle) . .123
Lakes. (See Ponds, Lakes and the
Water Garden) . . 281, 283, 287
Landscapes, natural 13
disposition of trees and shrubs in 20
Lantana 123
Larkspur. (See Delphinium) . . .242
Lasiandra (Pleroma) 124
macrantha 124
Lastr^a 204
Latania borbonica 294
Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet-pea). . 176
Laurel 33» 106, 370, 374
California. (See Umbellularia
Calif omica) 45 » 168
Chinese 83
English. (See Cerasus) ... 83
grouping of 13, 14, 17
Portugal. (See Cerasus) . 23, 24, 26,
28, 30, 83
Laurus CABfPHORA (Camphor- tree) 32, 124
Laurus nobilis . . . 24, 26, 127
Laurus Tinus 26,30
Lawns . . . 24,54,55,343,369,373
grading for 55 '^
grasses for 56
location of 8
manure for 55
outlines of 7, 55
preliminary work for . 55
raking 56
rolling 55,57,369
seed for 56
soil for 55
surroundings of 13
water for 57
weeds in 55,58
Layering, propagation by . . .316
Lemon. (See Citrus Limonum) . 32, 86
Leptospermum . . 23,33,125,127,325
Isvigatum
21,22,28,30,60,125,127
Page
Leucadendron (Silver Tree) . . .128
argenteum 128
Leveling THE Ground. . . . 37,44
LiBOCEDRUS (Incense Cedar) . . .128
Chilensis 128
decurrens 24,33,128
Doniana 128
Lice, Plant. (See Aphides) . . . 303
LiGUSTRUM (Privet) . . 23,30,129
Ibota 28,3^,129
Japonicum . . .20, 24, 26, 28, 1 29
luddum 129
ovalifolium .129
Lilac. (See Syringa)
. 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 162
California. (See Ceanothus) 8^
European 162
grouping of 13
Japanese 162
Persian 162
LiLiUM 187
auratum 187
candidum (St. Joseph's Lily) . .187
giganteum 187
Hiunboldti 187
lancifolium 187
pardalinum 187
tigrinum 187
Washingtonianum 187
Lily. (SeeLiliiun) . 187,289,346,369
African. (See AgafMinthus) . .182
Calla. (See Richardia Ethiopica) 191
Calla 286,346
Mariposa. (See Calochortus) . 183
Royal Purple. (See Nymphaea
Zanzibarensis) 288
St. Joseph's. (See Lilium candi-
dum) 187
Water 286, 289, 346
Lime por Slugs 307
Lime. (See Citrus Limetta) ... 86
Linden. (SeeTilia). . 23,32,33,166
grouping of 14
LiPPIA reptans 58
Liquidambar (Sweet Gum) . 28,33,129
Styraciflua 129
Liriodendron. (Tulip-tree) . 28, 33, 130
[389]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
■■
Page
LmsTONiA 198
australis 198
Chinensis 198
Lobelia 254, 296, 333, 335, 336, 345, 347
cardinalis 254, 255, 258, 336, 350, 370
. . 254
I
• • 153
. . 113
. . 177
speciosa
Location of a Site . . . .
Locust. (See Robinia)
Honey. (See Gleditschia)
LoNiCERA. (Honeysuckle)
Lot Planting Plan
25' X 120
40 X 120
50' X 150' .
75' X 150' .
100' X 180' .
150' X 200' .
200' X 350' .
300' X 400' .
ten acre tract
20
21
22
. ... 23
• • • 24,25
26, 27
. . 28, 29, 30
. . 30,3i»32
32,33.34,35.36
Lotus. (See Nelumbium) . .291,346
Lupins. (See Lupinus) . 255, 336
Yellow 320
Lupinus 255,342
arboreus 255,320
bicolor 255,342
Chamissonis 255
Lychnis 256
Lygodium scandens . 339
l.yonothamnus 130
Madrone. (See Arbutus) 71
Magnolia .... 331131,326,370
acuminata 131
conspicua 131
grandiflora . . 21,23,24,32,131
moschata 131
obovata 131
parviflora 131
Soulangeana 131
stellata 131
tripetala 131
Maidenhaik-tree. (See Ginkgo) . 113
Mammillarias 220
Mammillaria Goodrichii . .220
Mammillaria Grahamiana .220
Mandevilla suaveolens . . 24, 28, 178
Manure . . 356
Page
Manure — Continued
use in trenching 38
use in planting and transplanting 53
use in preparing soil for lawns . 55, 59
use in mulching and top-dressing. 310
Maple. (See Acer) . . 20, 21, 24, 28,
32, ^^, 66. 324
grouping of 13, 14
Norway 324
Maranta 294,373
bicolor 294
zebrina 294
March 341
Marigold 345
Marliacea Hybrids 288
Matthiola. (Stock) 256
Maurandya 178
May 349
Maytenus 132
boaria .... 23,28,32,60,132
Chilensis 28, 132
Medlar. (See Mespilus) .... 136
Melaleuca 132, 133
decussata 132
fulgens 132
Leucadendron . 132, 133
Melia Azedarach. (Umbrella Tree) 135
Melianthus major 136
Mesembryanthemum
216,221,222,223,296,341
aequilaterale 223
australis 223
spectabile 223
versicolor 223
Mespilus. (Medlar) 136
Japonica 135,136
Metrosideros 136
robusta 136
Mignonette. (See Reseda) . . 268
Mignonette .... 296,342,356
Mildew 174,273,302,303
Grape Vine 302
Hop 303
Pear 303
Powdery 302
Rose 273,302,303
treatment for 303
[390]
INDEX
Page
MiMULUS 257
cardinalis 257
glutinosus 257
luteus 257
moschatus. (Musk) . .257
Mite 361, 373
Mock Orange. (See Philadelphus) .
140,356
MONTBRETIA 188,370
MoRUS NIGRA. (Mulberry) . . .137
MUEHLENBECKIA 179
complexa 179
Mulberry. (See Morus nigra) .137
Mulching AND TOP-DRESSING . . 309
flower beds ...'.... 310
lawns 310
seeds 310
trees and shrubs . • 53>3io
Mullein. (See Verbascum) . .276
MusA 258
Cavendishii 258
coccinea 258
Ensete 258
Musi^. (See Mimulus moschatus) . . 257
Myosotis. (Forget-me-not) . . .
258,363,370
Myrica 137
Myrtle. (See Eugenia) ....
20,21,26,28,33,105
Common. (See Myrtus com-
munis) 137
Crape. (See Lagerstrcemia) . .123
Myrtus. (Myrtle) 137
apiculata 137
bullata 137
communis 137
Nandina domestica 138
Narcissus. (Daffodil) . 188, 296, 298, 363
Jonquilla. (Jonquil) .... 190
Nasturtium. (See Tropaeolum) . .275
Nasturtium .... 294, 296, 342
Nelumbium 286, 291 ,292
album grandiflorum .291
luteum. (American Lotus) . .291
speciosum. (Egyptian Lotus) . 291
Nemophila 259,336,341
aurita -259
[39
Page
Nemophila — Continued
insignis 259
Nephrolepis exaltata. (See Bos-
ton Fern) 294
Nerium. (Oleander) . . 26,30,32,138
November 369
Nursery Rows 316
Nutmeg Tree, False. (See Torreya) 166
NYMPHiEA 286,346
alba 288, 292, 346
Carolinensis . 286
candidissima 288
caerulea 288
chromatella 346
dentata 288
Devoniensis 288
exquisita ....... 286
fulgens 288
lotus 288
Marliacea 346
odorata . . ' . 286. 292
rosea 288
sulphurea 286
tuberosa 287,346
Zanzibarensis. (Royal Purple
Lily) 288
Oak. (See Quercus)
. . . 13,14,17,45,149324,331
Attacks of caterpillars . 306
Black . . .151
Cork 151
English iSo» 151
Evergreen 151
Live 150
Pin 151
Shrub or Scrub .13,324
Turkey 151
White 150
Willow 151
October 367
(Enothera 259
albicaulis 259
biennis 259
bistorta 259
cheiranthifolia 259
ovata 259
Offsets — propagation by . .316
I]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Oleander. (See Nerium) .18, 138
Oleakia 138
Forsteri 139
Gunniana 139
Haastii 139
Olea EuROPiEA. (Olive) . . . .139
Olive. (See Olea Europaea) . . 32,139
Wild. (See Elsagnus) ... 98
Opuntia. (Indian Fig) . . . .220
ficus indica 221
littoralis 221
prolifera 221
Orange. (See Citrus) . . . 32, 86
Mock. (See Philadelphus) . 140, 356
OsMANTHUS 139
aquifolium 139
fragrans 139
OSMUNDA 204
OXALIS 260
Padding — in staking trees . . .52
P^ONIA (Paeony) 260
Moutan 260
officinalis 260
Pagoda Tree, Japanese 157
Palms. 32, 33, 194, 333, 351, 357, 371, 373
Blue. (See Erythea armata) . . 197
Cabbage. (See Sabal Palmetto) . 199
California Fan. (See Washing-
tonia) 200, 201
Date 197,308
for Conservatory 299, 301
Japanese Cane. (See Rhapis) 199, 294
moving 49
potting 300i3Pi
Soil for 299
Sidewalk 9, 195
Wine. (See Jubaea spcctabilis) 49, 197
Pampas Grass .30, 212, 215, 217, 283, 286
Pandanus unus 294
Panicum 340
Pansy. (See Viola) 277
Pansy. . 24, 229, 296, 298, 356, 363, 368
Papaver (Poppy) 261
bracteatum 261
Danebrog 261
orientale 261
Shirley 261,342
Page
Papaver — Continued
somniferum 261
Papyrus antiquorum . . . 286, 346
Parkinsonia 140
Parlor Gardening 293
Passiflora 180
Paulownia 140
Peach 330
pEACOCic-FLO^'ER. (See Poinciana) . 145
Pear 32,330
Pecan-nut tree 79
Pelargonium (Geranium) . . . .262
Lady Washington 262
zonale 262, 296
Pentstemon . 262,336,341,350
Pepper tree. (See Schinus molle)
24,26,28,33,155
Petunia 263,294,335,342
Philadelphus (Mock Orange) . .
21,22,23,24,28,32,140
coronarius 26, 140
Gordonianus 141
grandiflorus 141
Phillyrea 30, 141
Phlox . . 21,24,30,264,341,347,370
Drummondii . . . 264,335,345
subulata 264
Phoenix 199
Canadensis . . 22, 28, 33, 198, 199
dactylifera 199
reclinata ai, 199
rupicola 199
sylvestris 199
Zeylanica 199
Photinia (California Redberry or
Holly) 23, 141
Phyllostachys . . . . 208,211,212
aurea 211
henonis 208, 212
nigra 212
Phyllocactus 220
Picea (Pitch Fir) 142
PiCEA PUNGENS (Blue Spruce) ... 33
PiLEA MUSCOSA 34O
PiMELIA 143
rosea 24, 26, 28, 143
[392]
INDEX
Page
Pine. (See Pinus)
. . 13, 41, 48, 143, 222, 287, 326, 374
Austrian 324
grouping of 17, i43
Italian Stone 144
maritime 324
Monterey . . 28,30,143,324,325
sugar 143
yellow 324
Pinks. (See Dianthus) 244,367
Pinus (Pine) 33, ^43
Cembra 144
halepensis 144
insignis 143, 208
Lambertiana 143
Murrayana 143
Pinea 144
rigida 143
Pipe (Water) 17
for lakes 285
PiTTOSPORUM. . 20, 22, 106, 144, 370, 374
crassifolium . •144
eugenioides 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 33, 144
nigricans 24, 144
tobira 21,24,32,144
imdulatum 33, 144
Plan, DETAILED 12,18
for lakes and ponds .281
of grounds and garden . . 12
of planting, preparing .... 7
of grouping 10
preliminary 2
planting —
for lot 25
for lot 40
for lot 50
for lot 75
for lot 100
for lot 150
for lot 200
for lot 300
for lot of 10 acres
Plane-tree. (See Platanus) .
Planting and Transplanting
care of roots in ...
' X
120'
' X
120'
' X
150'
' X
150'
' X
180'
' X
200
' X
350'
' X
400'
20
21
22
. ... 23
. . . 24,25
26, 27
■ . 28, 29, 30
• • 30,31,32
32,33,34,35,36
. ■ 145
• . 47
• 51,53
grouping, etc 10, 13
ferns 207
Page
Planting and Transplanting — Continued
harmony in 14
on hill site 12
operation of 48
plan of 7,47
time for 47
large trees • • S3
Plant Lice. (See Aphides) . . . 303
Platanus (Plane-tree, Sycamore) . . 145
Platystemon (Cream-cup) . 265
Pleasure Garden and Grounds,
planning op 12
Pleroma. (See Lasiandra) .124
Plow, sub-soil 37
Plowing 37, 40, 47
cross 40
Plum. (SeePrunus) . 32,147,330
Plumbago 21, 145
cap>ensis 145
Zeylanica 145
Plunging 318
PoiNCiANA (Peacock- flower) . 145
pulcherrima 146
regia 146
POINSETTLV . . 266,333,356,363,375
POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA .... 266
POLIANTHES TUBEROSA (TuberOSc) . I90
POLYGALA 146
Dalmaisiana 33, 146
POLYPODIUM 204
POLYSTICHUM 204
Pomegranate. (See Punica grana-
tum) 148
Ponds, Lakes and the Water Gar-
den 281, 289, 346
bottom for 282
excavating for 282
piping for 285
planning out 282
plants for 285
puddling 282
size and shape 281,285
soil boxes for 286
staking out 282
PONTEDERIA CORDATA 346
Poplar. (See Populus) . 23, 147
aspen 147
[393]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Poplar — Continued
Carolina 147
grouping of 17
Lombardy (pyramidalis) . . 147
silver-leaved 147
Poppy. (See Papa ver) 261 , 336, 342,35o» 353
California. (See Eschscholtzia) . 245
Matilija. (See Romneya Coulteri.) 154
Shirley 261,342
PopuLUS (Poplar) 33, 147
Portugal Laurel . 23, 24, 26, 28, 30, 83
PoRTULACA (Purslane) . 216, 266
Potato Vine. (See Solanum jasminoi-
des) 180
potentilla 266
Pots, si/e, treatment, etc 300, 301
for fems 207
Potting 300,301
ferns 207
Preparation OF THE Ground. -37
Pricking out 311
Prickly Pear. (See Opuntia) . .220
Primrose. (See (Enothera) -259
(See Primula) .... 267
349,368,370
Primula 267,333,357,368
Japonica 267
obconica 267, 368
sinensis 349i353,368
stellata 368
Privet. (See Ligustrum) . .129
Propagation, by division of the
BULBS 317
. by cuttings 315,3^7
by layering 316
by offsets 316
by suckers 316
Prunus (Plum) 30, 147
Mume .... 24, 28, 30, 33, 147
pendula 147
Pissardii iZyi^l
sinensis flore pleno 147, 148
triloba 148
Pruning 330
Pteris argyr.ea 294
cretica 294
tremula 204
«
u
Page
Puddling ponds and lakes . 282
Punica granatum (Pomegranate) . 148
Purslane. (See Portulaca) ... 266
Pyrethrum (Feverfew) 267, 333, 335, 347
roseum 268
Pyrus (Apple) 149
aucuparia (Mountain Ash) . 149
Americana 149
Belle- fleur 149
floribimda 149
Japonica 22, 149
Malus 149
Quassia extract 348
QuERCUS (Oak) 28, 149
Cerris .151
palustris 151
Phellos 151
Robur 151
suber 33. 151
Virginiana 151
Quince, Japanese. (See Cydonia
Japonica) 94
Raking, for Lawns 55
Ranunculus AsiATicus 190,334
Reclamation of sand 319
by Sea Bent Grass . 320,323,324
trees and shrubs used in 324,325
Redberry. (See Photinia) . . 141
Redhot Poker Plant. (See Knip-
hofia) 186
Red Spider 305, 361
Redwood. (See Sequoia) . . 32,33,156
grouping of 14
Reseda (Mignonette) 268
Retinospor.\ . . 23, 24, 26, 28, s^, 151
retusa 148
Rhamnus (Buckthorn) (Wild Coffee) 152
Califomicus 152
Rhapis (Cane Palm) 199
flabelliformis (Japanese Cane
Palm) 294
Rhododendron. . .26,28,32,36,152,
153*326.370
Calif omicum 152
Catawbiense . 23,24,30,32,152
ponticum 152
[394]
INDEX
Page
RiCHARDiA Ethiopica (Calla Lily) . 191
Roads 40
bed of 44
bottoming of 44
construction of 40
crowning 42
finishing 46
grading 40,42,44
location of 5
rock for 44
rolling 45,46
shaping 44
staking out 5, 40
through drifting sand . -320
Robinia (Locust) 33 » 153
RocHEA. (See Crassula coccinea) . .361
Rock, POR BEDS OF PONDS AND LAKES . 285
for draining 39
for roads and walks . . 44, 45
Rockery, Fern 32, 202, 207, 341
Rock-rose. (See Cistus) .... 85
Rolling, lawns 55i 57
roads and walks 44, 45, 46
RoMNEYA Coulteri (Matilija Poppy)
24,30,33,154
Rondeletia 333
Roots, in planting and trans-
planting 51
in conser\'ator>' plants . 333
Rosa (Rose) 269
Banksias 269, 271
Bourbons 272
Cherokees 269, 271
Climbers .... 272,354,375
Diseases of 273
Hybrid perpetuals . 270, 271, 272
Manetti 270
Pillar 272
Ramblers 269, 271
Standard 365
Tea 272
Rose-leaf roller 348
•Rose. (See Rosa) 20,21,22,23,24,26,28,
269, 299, 306, 330, 333, 347,
348, 354, 358, 374
Rose rust 273
Rows, nursery 316
Page
Rubber Tree. (See Ficus) . 109,326
Rubber Plant (Ficus Elastica) . . 293
Rust 244
Rye Grass 58
Australian 58
English 58
Sabal Palmetto (Cabbage Palm) . 199
Blackbumiana 199
Mexicana 199
umbraculifera 199
Sagitaria 346
Salisburia adiantifolia. (See Gink-
go) 30,33
Salix (Willow) 154
alba 154
babylonica 154
vitellina •. 154
Salpiglossis ..... 273,335
Salt, for slugs 307
Salvia 274,354
patens 274
Sambucus (Elder) 155
aurea 155
glauca 155
racemosa 155
Sand reclauation 319
composition of sand . -319
experiments in 319
by Sea Bent Grass . 320,324
shifting sand 310
trees used in . . . 324,325
fertilizer for 325
Saxifraga 274,342
palmata 274
sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard) .274
Scabiosa 275
Scale . . 307,308,336,358,373,375
ScHiNus molle (Pepper tree) . .30,155
SciLLA (Wood Hyacinth) . 191,367
campanula ta 192
SCOLOPENDRIUM 204
Sea Bent Grass (Ammophila aren-
aria) 320
culture of 324
in shifting sand 320,323,324
Seaforthia eleg.ans 200, 294
Sedum 221,222,224,341
[ 395 1 ^
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Seoum — Continued
sempervivum 224
Seed, grass 56
Sempervivum (Houseleek) 221, 224
September 362
Sequoia (Redwood) . . .156,326
gigantea 33*^5^
sempervirens 156
Service Tree. (See Sorbus domes-
tica) 158
She-oak. (See Casuarina) .81
Shrubs 60
form and habit 13
deciduous .... 48,330,372
grouping . . . . 8,11,13
hardy 13
mulching 53
planting 47
preparing the ground for . . 37
pruning 330
selection of 7
stakes for 52, 54
transplanting 47i 53
Shrubbery, effect 13
planting of 13
SiLENE (Catch-fly) . . 275, 298, 363
compacta 275
pendula 275,361
Silver Tree. (See Leucadendron) . 128
Site, aspect of i
for house and garden . . . . i
grading of 6
location of i
planting 7
Slugs 307
Snapdragon. (See Antirrhinum) . .229
Snowtball. (See Viburnum Opulus
sterilis) 169
Snowball (Chinese). (See Viburnum
macrophyllum) 170
Soil, Black Dobe 55, 59
Brown loam 55, 59
Clay 38, 55
Drainage of 38
for cacti 220
for ferns 203, 207
for lawns 55
Page
Soi L — Continued
for palms 299
for water plants . 286
for window-box 295
grading of 6,40,54
harrowing 37
mulching 53
plowing 37,40,47
sandy 55, 59, 319
saving of 6, 40
subsoil 37
surface 37, 40
trenching 37,55,33°
use in planting and transplant-
ing 47,51
Soil-boxes or basins for water
PLANTS 286
SOLANUM 180, 263
jasminoides (Potato Vine) . 180
Wendlandii 24, 180
SoLLYA 28, 157
Soot, remedy for slugs .... 306
SOPHORA 157
Japonica (Japanese Pagoda Tree) 157
Sorbus AucupARiA (Mountain ash) . 157
Americana 158
domestica 158
sambucifolia 158
Sowing grass seed 55
Spading 330
Spanish Broom. (See Spartium jun-
ceum) 20, 158
Spartium junceum (Spanish Broom) .
21, 24, 26, 28, 158
Spindle-tree. (See Euon>'mus) . . 105
SpiRiEA ... 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 33, 159
Aruncus 159,346
Chinensis . • 159
Douglasit 159
dumosa 159
grandi flora. (See Exochorda) . . 106
Japonica 159
Lindleyana 159
lobata 159
media 159
millefolia 159
opulifolia 159
1 396]
INDEX
Page
Spiraa — Continued
palmata 159
pnmifolia 159
Sponging palms 357
window-box plants .... 298
Spot 244
Spruce i3i 33
Stables, staking off 6
Staking off, house site .... 2
roads and walks 5,40
stables 6
trees 52
Stakes, FOR house site . . . - StS
for roads and walks 5, 40
for stables 6
for transplanting 52
for trenching 37
grade 41, 43
line 40
witness 43
Sterculia 21, 160
acerifolia (Australian Flame Tree) 160
diversifolia 160
platanifolia 160
Stipa pennata (Feather-grass) .212
Stock. (See Matthiola) 256, 336, 342, 356
Strawberry Tree. (See Arbutus) 71
Streptocarpus 361
Streptosolen 24, 30, 160
Styr.\x 161
serrulata 161
Subsoil 37
plowing 37
Succulents 216
Suckers, propagation by . . .316
Sulphur for mildew 303
Summer-house 365
Sunflower. (See Helianthus) 251
SwAiNSONiA 30, 161
Sweet-brier 28
Sweet-pea. (See Lathyrus odoratus)
176,296,336,341,350
Sweet-William. (See Dianthus) . 244
Sycamore. (See Platanus) . 13,145,324
Syncarpia laurifolia 161
Syringing plants .... 333, 355
Syringa. (Lilac) 162
Page
Syringa — Continued
Japonica 162
Persica 162
vulgaris 162
Tamarix 30, 163
Gallica 163
orientalis 163
parviflora 163
plumosa 163
Tank, water 18
Taxodium (Swamp Cypress) . . .163
distichum 163, 286
mucronatum (Montezuma Cy-
press) 163
Taxus (Yew) 164
baccata 33, 164
baccata argentea 164
baccata aurea 33? 164
baccata fastigiata 164
Teedia 341
Templetonia (Coral Bush) . . .164
Terraced front 337
Thistle 59
Thrips 304
Thuya 14, 165
gigantea 22,30,165
occidentals 165
orientalis 165
Thuyopsis dolabrata . . . . 33, 166
TiGRIDIA 192
Tiles, drainage 38
TiLiA (Linden) 28, 32, 166
Tobacco, for green fly, etc . .
303,347,362,373
fumigation with 304
Top-dressing. (See mulching) . 309
ToRREYA. (False Nutmeg Tree) . 166
Coulteri 166
grandis 166
Tradescantia 340
Transplanting 47
care of roots in 53
deciduous trees and shrubs . .48
Eucalyptus and Acacia ... 48
hole for, size and shape, etc. . 48
operation of 48
Pine and Cypress 48
1 397]
GARDENING IN CALIFORNIA
Page
Transplanting — Continued
staking 52
time for 47
large trees 53
Transvaal Daisy. (See Gerberia
Jamiesonii) 249
Trees 60
Blending of groups 13
column-shaped - 17
deciduous 14148,330,372
disposition of : 14
evergreens 14,47,371
form and habit 14
grouping of 8, 11, 13
hardy 7, ^3
mapping out 11
planting and transplanting 47, 53
preparation of the ground for -37
pyramidal 14
roots, care of 51
round headed 14
selection of 7
staking 52
Trenching 37
for lawns 55
Tristania 167
TROPiEOLUM (Nasturtium) -275
speciosum 276
tuberosum . . 276
Trumpet Vine. (See Bignonia) . .172
Tuberose. (See Polianthes tube-
rosa) 190
Tuberous-rooted plants .182
Tulip . . 192, 296, 298, 334, 367, 370
Tulip-tree. (See Liriodendron) . . 130
Turk's Cap. (See Achania) ... 67
Tyd.ea 340
Ulmus (Elm) . 30, 32, 167
Americana 167
campeslris 167
scabra 167
Umellularia Californica (Cal-
ifornia Laurel) . . 17,32,168
Umbrella Tree. (See Melia Azeda-
rach) 135
Umbrella Plant 346
\'erbascum (Mullein) 276
Page
Verbena 276,336,342,345
Sweet scented. (See Aloysia
citriodora) 69
Veronica 33, 106, 168
Andersonii 169
buxifolia 169
Colensoi 169
decussata
. 20,21,22,26,28,32,33,60,167,169
elliptica 169
Viburnum 22, 32, 169
Japonicum 170
macrophyllum 170
Opulus sterilis (Snowball) . . . 28, 169
Tinus 20, 22, 23, 169
tomentosum 170
Victoria regia .- 291
Viola (Pansy) .24,277
comuta or homed violet .
28,278,298,363
odorata (Violet) 279
Violet. (See Viola odorata) . .279
California 279
Marie Louise 279
Neapolitan . 279
Princess of Wales 279
Violet (Horned) 21. 22, 24, 278, 296,
341,358,361
Viper's bugloss. (See Echium) 97
Virgilia lutea 170
Virginia-creeper. (See Ampdopsis
quinquefolia) 171, 334
Walks 36,40,41,46,369
bed of 44
bottoming 44
construction of 40
crowning 42
finishing 46
grading 40,42,44
grass 321
location of 5
rock for 44
rolling 44i46
shaping 44
staking off 5* 40
Wallflower. (See Cheiranthus)
237,356,363
1 398]
INDEX
Page
Walnut. (Sec Juglans) . . 1 20
Washingtoxia (California Fan Palm)
15, 200, 201
filifera 200
Sonorse iS» 200
Water, distribution of . . . . 17
drainage of 38
for bamboos 208
for ferns 204
for lawns 57
for trees and shrubs .362
for window-box plants . 296
for young seedlings -311
garden 281
pipe 17
after transplanting . -52
stagnant in soil .* . . . • 39
supply of : 2,17
tank 18
Water garden 281
Water-lilies 285, 286, 287, 288, 346
boxes for 286
setting out .... 286, 287, 288
soil for 286
varieties 286
Weeds in lawns 55, 57
Weigela. (See Dier\nlla) . . 96, 356
Whale-oil soap for aphides
303,307,348
Whin, European 146
Page
WiGANDiA 333
WiUD Flowers 336, 342
Willow. (SeeSalix) . 154^^85,286,292
Babylonian weeping ^^^V 154, 292
golden ". . . . ^^^ . . 154
white 154
Window-box 295
care of and general treatment 296, 298
drainage of 295
insects injurious to .... 298
overhauling 296
plants for 295
size 295
soil for 295
watering 296
Wire worms 369
WiSTARL\ . . . 23, 24, 26, 28, 36, 180
Japonica 181
multijuga 181
sinensis 181
speciosa 181
Wood ashes for slugs . .307
Woodbint:. (See Lonicera) . .177
WooDSiA 204
WOODWARDIA 204, 293
Yew. (See Taxus) 164
English 164,324,326
Irish or Florence Court .164
Zinnia 279,335,345
[399]
N
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