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PUBLISHIED IBY TT. MIS ALIEAN, 26, ACY TARE
THE GARDENS OF ENGLAND.
UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF
HER GRACE THE DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND.
HIS
THE
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GRACE THE DUKE OF BEDFORD.
MOST NOBLE THE MARQUIS OF LANSDOWNE.
MOST NOBLE THE MARCHIONESS OF WESTMINSTER.
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
RIGHT
HON. THE
HON.
HON.
HON.
HON.
HON.
HON.
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HON.
HON.
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THE
THE
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EARL OF STAMFORD AND WARRINGTON.
EARL COWPER.
EARL OF. ELLESMERE.
COUNTESS OF HARRINGTON.
COUNTESS FRANCES WALDEGRAVE.
COUNTESS OF STAMFORD AND WARRINGTON.
VISCOUNTESS PALMERSTON.
EARL OF SHELBURNE.
LORD HATHERTON.
LADY DOWNES.
LORD ORANMORE.
SIR W. F. F. MIDDLETON, BART.
VICE-ADMIRAL
SIR. AUGUSTUS CLIFFORD, BART.
THE RIGHT HON. LADY EMILY FOLEY.
W. A. NESFIELD, ESQ.
&e. &ec. &e.
LIST OF SUBJECTS.
TRENTHAM HALL - - - = e : = A - VVIGNETTE 1
THE TRELLIS WINDOW (Frontispiscr) - 2 - - - - - 2
THE LAKE - : : . : : : in eRe
THE TERRACE + c e 2 M 2 7 4
THE PARTERRE = Z es E < e = : 5 5
ENVILLE HALL - - : < “ 2 z - - v VIGNETTE 6
_THE GREAT FOUNTAIN = e : Z Me - 4 5 7
THE RIVER-HORSE FOUNTAIN = - - = = = - 8
BOWOOD HOUSE - = A . f a 2 r - \/VIGNETTE 9
CASCADE = : - 2 = A 2 - VIGNETTE 10
UPPER AND LOWER TERRACES - = 3 2 - = e IL
ALTON TOWERS 5 : = és 2 2 = : - VVIGNETTE 12
THE COLONNADE - } : : : 4 : ew
VIEW IN THE GARDENS 2 - = - = 3 _ & 14
ELVASTON CASTLE - - - : 2 = 2 - ./ VIGNETTE 15
BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF MON PLAISIR - - - - - - - 16
/AHE ALHAMBRA GARDEN - - © “ = - 5 17
SHRUBLANDS HALL - - - - : - - - - “Vicnerte 18
V FOUNTAIN GARDEN (TITLE) - = - - - = = - 19
VIEW FROM THE UPPER TERRACE WALK = = - = = = 20
VIEW FROM THE RUSTIC SEAT = ” - = - > 2 Pall
WOBURN ABBEY = : - : : 2 : : - VIGNETTE 22
_ THE TERRACE GARDEN - = - - - - - - ays
WORSLEY HALL - - - - peo - - - “VIGNETTE 24
ALOWER TERRACE GARDEN - ; - - - - - - - 25
EATON HALL - - . ie . - : : 5 - \“Vienette 26
VIEW IN THE GARDENS : = - = - - = - 27
THE DRAGON FOUNTAIN . = : - - - = = 28
HOLKHAM-HOUSE - - - : 2 “ 2 VIGNETTE 29
THE ST GEORGE AND DRAGON FOUNTAIN - : 3 - = - 30
TEDDESLEY HOUSE - - = = . = 3 : - ~VienetTe 31
VISTA IN THE GARDENS z - = = - : - - Be
CASTLE HOWARD - - - - : e 3 - - ~ VIGNETTE 33
PLS Ste | THE PARTERRE, CASTLE HOWARD - - - - - © - 34
~ WESTFIELD HOUSE =- - - - - - - - 5 = 235
VIEW IN THE GARDENS - - - - - - - - 36
BINSTEAD CASCADE - - - - - - - = - VIGNETTE 387
VY WILTON HOUSE - - - - = - - - - Vignette 38
THE PARTERRE - - - - 2 2 - - - 39
v HAREWOOD HOUSE, LEEDS
dupreait f ATHE PARTERRE : ; ; - ; . -- . = | 40
’ NEWNHAM :
THE ROSE GARDEN : - : : : : : er
~“ CASTLE COMBE
GARDEN ON THE HILL SIDE - - - - - - - 42
PANSHANGER - - - - - - - a - VIGNETTE 43
Che Gardens of Englant.
PREFACE.
Some introductory and explanatory remarks are necessary to the Work here presented
to the Public. Without claiming undue originality for it, the projectors confidently
believe that it will be considered unique of its kind. The enchanting art of horticulture
has suggested and given birth to many productions both of the pencil and the pen.
“Scenes of picturesque beauty and floral triumphs have received ample justice at able
hands, and the varied productions of nature have been described, classified, and illustrated,
by a literature and an art exclusively devoted to their service,—but the GARDENS OF
ENGLAND, pre-eminent for scenic effect, magnificent decoration, and scientific achievement,
have never yet received that attention they so largely merit.
This volume is an attempt to realize a fair pictorial epitome of the horticultural
beauties our country contains. It is the result of years of labour, and, it is almost
needless to add, has been completed at no small trouble and expense. That such a
work is required few will venture to deny, but if proof be needed, it will be found in
the intense interest already displayed in the prosecution of this book, by those best able
to judge of its value, and by the noble proprietors of the gardens herein depicted.
The preparation of the origimal drawings required that the artist should be upon the
spot wherever it was desirable to proceed,—and this not for a mere casual visit or a
hurried sketch, but for the purpose of patient and careful labour. Thus, Mr Brooke has
spent several summers in undivided attention to the views contained in this volume. Not
satisfied with first or second studies, he has made repeated visits to each locality, and is
enabled, therefore, to offer drawings which are correct and faithful in all their details.
Without such a guarantee, a work of this nature must be deemed comparatively valueless ;
but it is with the greatest confidence that this volume is now presented to its distinguished
patrons, many of whom, as the generous and liberal owners of the gardens, are certainly
the best judges of its artistic fidelity.
The volume now just published necessarily presents but a portion of those beauteous
scenes of flower and foliage which are to be met with in England wherever rank and
taste are present. Very many of these gardens, though of matchless character, and
developing the highest culture and elegance in this style of art, are yet undelineated; it is
therefore purposed, should encouragement be afforded in the publication of this,—the First
Volume,—to issue a Second, so that the work may become more complete in its character
than it otherwise would be.
The letter-press which accompanies each view has been compiled from sources which
appeared the most desirable. It presents details—historical and descriptive—which, it is
hoped, will give increased interest and value to the drawings. Much information has
been obtained from those who are the custodiers of the gardens themselves,—men who are
developing, by their skill and research, a glorious art which is rapidly changing the face
of the land. To these, sincere thanks are returned for their kindly aid and interest.
Additional information has been derived from the considerate attention of the noble
proprietors of the gardens. To them every acknowledgment is due and most gratefully
rendered for the liberality which permitted, and the kindness which aided, the completion
of this work; and, in ushering it into existence, the proprietors earnestly hope that it will
be deemed, what it professes to be, a successful and satisfactory presentment of those
delightful abodes of beauty—
THE GARDENS OF ENGLAND.
26 HAYMARKET.
TRENTHA Me
THE SEAT OF HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF SUTHERLAND.
On the banks of the picturesque river Trent, just without the boundary line of the busy, black, and, by
night, fiery range of the Staffordshire Pottery and Mining Districts,—near enough to receive their advantages,
sufficiently far away to lose their unsocial character, stands Trentham, one of the seats of his Grace
the Duke of Sutherland. That it is beautiful all who have seen it well know; but its beauty is not of that
erand or sublime order heaped up by nature in one of her mighty convulsions; Art has assisted with a
lavish hand to give dignity to sweetness, order to fertility, and nobleness to rural simplicity and effect.
There are many positions more majestic, many more imposing; but few that can lay claim to the elaborate
finish and expressive character of the principal as well as the subordinate points of its construction,
The original design is not merely carried out, it is embellished; Nature not only shows herself in her
richest garb, her rainbow-hues are beautified by the study and knowledge of her most effective relations,
and the symmetry of style pervading all is but the rallying-point of a poetical conception and adornment.
Even when the sternness of Winter seizes upon every leaf, and darkens the life of every tree, there is,
as it were, a buoyancy of expression in the broad clear features of the place peculiarly striking; and,
whether seen in the laughing winsome time of Spring, the beautiful sweet days of Summer, or during
the mellow and glorious range of Autumn, the rapturous exclamation of its numerous visitors could not
possibly be more apropos or deserved—“ This is fairy-land indeed !”
Well—the hours are passing onwards, the shadows of the sun are lengthening, the leaves of the
fine old trees in the park quiver in the dying breeze of a cloudless sky, and the beauty of day is
upon us. We will take our stand on the Terrace Garden above the Parterre (Plate 1), and contemplate
the scene that opens before us in this gliding and expressive hour. Is it beautiful? is it poetical ?
There, on either side, as imaginative and diversified as their character, stand the life-like figures of a
classical age; an age that, although so rife with the destinies of mankind, and tortured and thrown
into convulsions by the overbalancing power of physical ambition, still retained within its bosom those
pure and elaborate characteristics of Art, to which, even at this distance of time, we turn for instruction,
and behold with an unfading and a glowing interest. Statuary is a benevolent power in the busy carnival
of floral life. Look at those sweet roses, in raised beds of wrought stone-work, about the path and
clinging to the form of Atalanta; how they smile upon her eager, confident face! she has not even a
glance for them ; and yet how gracefully their shadows blend upon the marble-like pavement below !
The golden apples bound before her—linger, Atalanta, the destiny of life and love is with thee, and why
should all be broken! There are other beds of similar construction, containing massive white marble
vases and bronze figures, round which cluster a series of variegated plants; and dividing the Terrace from
the Parterre is a stone balustrade, with descriptive and other vases containing flowers placed alone
* Trentham was originally called Trichingham, which signifies a hamlet situated at the confluence of three streams.
its surface at regular intervals. Also, in each ground-floor window, arranged in ornamental boxes, a con-
tinuous line of the Golden Chain Geranium completely realizes the novel idea of producing by means of
floral embellishment an effect similar to, and, comparatively speaking, as rich as that of decorative gilding.
A rippling sound of water, too, comes even here—a sound that ever pleases and softens with its gushing
murmurs and floating song—it is a fountain ; and there, in marbled grace, amid the refreshing garlands of
foliage and flower, Eve seems to watch the changing beauty of her face in the crystal mirror below.
Four steps below us—revelling in light and shade—is the extensive Parterre, with its smooth
verdant carpet, broad walks and narrow pathways of fine gravel; its Fountain (the Three Graces), Urns,
and Marble Vases, of which there are four unique specimens rising from the centre of the principal angular
compartments on large granite pedestals. The divisions between the beds—which are chiefly of an oblong,
circular, and serpentine form—of these compartments consisted formerly of very light-coloured gravel, but
the consequent glare and attracted heat of the sun’s rays were found to be excessive, and detrimental to the
effective outline of the plants. A fine mossy turf has lately been substituted, and the result is most
gratifying. A short time ago the plan of the outer borders underwent a change; it now presents a
flowing chain pattern, distinctly formed by carefully kept box-edgings. In the centre of each link is
a cypher filled with flowers, and from every fourth there also arises a tapering cypress. As a novelty
in the arrangement, the narrow pathways and interstices running along the outer chain were laid down
with differently-coloured gravel, and the effect shows itself advantageously, especially from the Terrace.
The plan of the Parterre is square, and its general appearance particularly striking ; perhaps more
so than any other part of the garden. It is entirely surrounded by a stone balustrade, on which are
placed numerous vases containing flowers ; and at the angles of the side facing south are two temples
containing mythological statues. From these angles balustrades with vases stretch in a slightly curved
and irregular line east and west, forming the boundary of the Italian Gardens, and are terminated by
two beautiful Italian Pavilions. Any attempt to particularise the variety or order of flowers used in
this garden would be useless; every year they are diversified, every year more expressive; and the
thousands of. plants required each season in its decoration brings the arrangement to a gigantic scale.
Besides, it is not what is new and rare that is alone effective: harmony of colour; the true definition
of contrast; the graceful blending of the trailing with the erect species; the grouping ; and the elasticity
of the whole are the real artistic powers of floral architecture. Whether these remarks are identified
with the scene before us the criticism of others must decide.
The outlines of prospective scenery from this point are not grand, in the common acceptation of the
term: there are no rocks nor nakedness; no rugged mountains towering in the distance ; nothing isolated,
abrupt, or frowning about it. Even the view is, in a measure, contracted, and altogether unrelieved
by ruined battlement or ivy-grown tower; but all is fertile, undulating, and peculiarly adapted to receive
and enrich the beautiful combinations of picturesque landscape.
From the Parterre, sad and poetical, in irregular height rise groups of the pyramidal cypress,
shading with dark green lines the rich and startling masses of Geranium and Calceolaria, Purely
Oriental in character, it mingles with and gives a thoughtful expression to those of European fame,
detracting from their sweet distinctiveness, or having an isolated appearance amongst so
much beauty. To the right, bordering the balustrade, a dense mass of evergreens, mingled with native
flowering plants, stretches on to the wood, interspersed here and there with grassy glades, and vistas
opening on some fine old tree or group in the park. The park is only partially seen; but it rises
undulating away to a ridge of hills clothed with waving fern, and dotted with the decaying sons of an
ancient forest, which grotesquely throw their naked, straggling arms among their more vigorous brethren ;
and there in the shade, unalarmed by the sounding horn, the ringing shout, or deep bay of the hound
of olden times, those noble characteristics of an English park—fallow deer—placidly repose.
Before us, in verdant tranquillity, relieved by the richness of artistic treatment, lie the Italian Gardens.
At their extremity the bright and silvery lake seems dreaming away into the foliage of the woods, with
green islands darkling on its bosom, and noble swans nestling on its surface, watching the life-like
shadows that look up to them from the face of the blue sky below. And look! skimming lazily on,
their feet dragging in broken lines across its surface, the coot and moor-hen make for the sedgy and
tangled bank, where the duck and mallard linger with their native brood till the yellow leaves of
autumn’s last days bring in lettered and ringing flight the countless masses of their south-bound race.
Even the ancient grey heron, in all the clumsy pride of his ancestors, is mounting the air in laboured
and as he flaps his huge wings above the tall
without
circles, free from the dangerous swoop of other days;
trees, how naturally the mind travels back to an age so romantically strange and so different from the
aspirings of our own. On its margin the sturdy branches of the oak bend over, and their leaves
kiss, as it were, the murmuring ripples as they beat faintly on its pebbly shore; while, grouped here
and there, so coy yet so beautiful, the lily sleeps and awakes with the sun through the whole summer
time of its existence, There is a boat, too, gliding round that point; and the dreamy splash of the
falling oars, with the faint echo of a measured song, come lazily on the air, in soft, suggestive unison.
- Gradually rising from the lake, the ground assumes a bolder character, and forms a distinct ridge
clothed entirely by a fine old wood, called the King’s Wood, whose wave-like and diversified foliage
seems to roll in the sun like the slumbering swell of the ocean. About half-way along it a flowing
bend points out the situation of the “Spring Valley,” which, with its delicious spring of water, contains
many fine specimens of Ferns. At the extremity of the wood rises a conical hill, crowned by a colossal
statue of the late Duke of Sutherland, erected by a grateful tenantry, and which forms a conspicuous
feature in the landscape. To the left the country is a little more open, and bounded by slightly rising
ground and trees. It thus forms an amphitheatre, of a purely sylvan character, and many a long and
weary mile might be plodded ere such another view rewarded us.
We will take a peep at the Private Conservatory to the right ere we descend from our golden-
wreath promenade. There are many favourite plants running over the trellis work, and playing fantastic
gambols about its roof. The orange trees scatter their grateful perfume around us; and fine moss
tempts us to a seat beneath the foliage of the palm-like and elegant Seaforthia. Around are arranged,
in china-covered boxes, many specimens of Lichens and Ferns; and facing “Eve at the Fountain,”
mentioned before, is a most elaborate and beautifully-carved marble spiral column. There are also
many ornamental pieces in China and Parian, which have a pleasing effect. A very fine Corridor,
half circular in shape, is connected with the Conservatory and the main building, the space between
being laid out in raised flower beds; the doors dividing it are very handsome, composed of iron, and
coloured blue and gold. The Corridor, containing varieties of Lichens, Ferns, Ivy, &e., leads to the
western or principal entrance, over which rises a square tower of wrought stone; and on three of its sides are
earved, in bold relief, the family arms. The area in front is alarge gravelled circle, entered from the park
between two small lodges, on the summit of which are placed bronze figures of deer; and the centre contains
a large statue of Diana, on a granite pedestal. The view from this corridor is very good; and the long,
gently-rising gravel road, leading directly away between sloping turf-covered banks to a large group of
trees in the park, heightens the effect, Through a side door we follow a walk leading to the Parterre,
passing, on the outside of the Conservatory a marble statue of Apollyna, of which a view is given from the
opposite side of the water, We now stroll leisurely on to the Private Wing Terrace Garden, at the
steps of which are two beautiful large antique bronze Vases, containing Geraniums and the graceful
Humea. The Terrace is approached by three pairs of stone steps, and on each side are arranged
iron-baskets of flowers. The chief attractions from this spot are the beautiful glades which run so
prettily out to the lake, or rest on the light columns of the pavilion for a moment, ere they
glide on to the Italian Gardens. Here also the “Rivulet” winds its pleasant way beneath the
clustering branches of trees and flowers across the green and daisy-dotted turf. How gentle it seems
to flow; but we listen in vain for the rippling laugh and pebble-murmuring song. The “Rivulet” is
a simple serpentine bed of the familiar “ forget-me-not;” and the happy idea of its representation of
water originated with the Duchess of Sutherland some years ago, at Lilleshall, in Shropshire. It was
at one time called ‘‘The Ribbon Border,” but latterly it has assumed its proper designation. Down
three or four steps we enter upon another division of the garden, called the Private Wing Garden,
which is laid out in a very effective manner; and rising in its centre is a fountain—three Cupids
supporting a basin. The private Orangery runs parallel with this, and is fronted by a fine arcade,
terminating in an open-arch tower of elegant construction. From beneath this tower steps lead down
into the garden, and at their base is an excellent view of some very recently-finished and beautiful
glades, which stretch across the pleasure grounds, forming with many other objects a series of great im-
provements, carried out under the immediate superintendence of the Duke and Duchess. In accomplishing
this, several large forest trees have been removed; and it is singular how effectually and artistically the
gaps have been filled up, and the ground-work re-established in so short a time. Retracing our way, we
cross the Parterre to the steps leading to the Italian Gardens (Plate 2). These steps are a novelty ;
their form is bow-like, the edge of stone, and the space between each, which gradually descends and is
composed of gravel, varies from five to seven feet. They are six in number, and have a stately
appearance. As we stand on the topmost step, let us contemplate for a moment the scene that genius
has converted from a swampy waste into a model of elegant dignity and character. The Italian
Gardens are spread before us; and as we gaze, how easy it is for fancy to bring over us those skies
3
so “darkly, deeply, beautifully blue;” the fragrant and gold-dotted groves of the orange and citron;
the graceful clusters of the luscious vine; the dark grouping of the purple pomegranate; the ereen
forests of the olive; and the poetry and song of Italy—beantiful Italy!
Let us go now—thought becomes oppressive at the name, and its reality is dark and dreary.
We want the merry face of flowers to charm us as we silently move on; and there, on either side
beneath the balustrade, they laughingly range. Look! how they sportively creep up and cling to the
wall; how they leap over its face, and peep into its hollow eyes! A mischievous zephyr now tumbles
in among them; and what gambols they play in the cool shade, away from the searching glance of
the sun. Happy flowers! play on while you may; the day is shortening, and even to you, young
and beautiful as you are, a night will come, and the winds and frosts of a harsher hour bring in
their turn the blighting and the withering of a common fate.
The central walk of fine gravel on which we now stand is about 250 yards long and 14 wide.
Single rows of the Portugal laurel growing out of large square boxes, one on each side, extend its entire
length, and are trained in a manner to represent orange trees. The effect of these prove how necessary
characteristic plants are in grounds intended to be of a national order. The plan of these far-famed
grounds represents an oblong square, divided into two large and four small compartments. The large
ones have in their centre fountains throwing a jet of water from twenty to thirty feet high; those in
the smaller ones are of a flowing order. There are four cross walks, and on each side of the outer
ones are single rows of the Portugal laurel, similar to those in the centre. A raised terrace walk runs
down to the lake on each side, on which are placed polished granite seats and Maltese vases; and on
the left, beneath the Trellis Walk, are allegorical busts of the Four Seasons, with ornamental baskets
between containing flowers. To the right, or west, masses of the Rhododendron and Azalea mingle
with dark evergreens, flowers, and trees, through which vistas and glades open into the park and wood;
and in some instances a single tree is thus brought prominently to the eye, like an object seen
through a telescope.
At the extremity of the central walk, abutting on the lake, and on a stone pedestal surrounded by
four smaller ones at present unoccupied, stands a remarkably fine colossal bronze cast of Perseus and
Medusa.“ This is the only bronze copy of the original extant, and as a work of art its value is great.
The work displays great power and truthfulness of expression. Perseus, flushed with triumph, is represented
holding the head of Medusa by its snaky locks the moment after decapitation, and surveying in his
shield the reflection of that fatal face, on which he dare not trust his naked eye. The attitude of her
prostrate body is that of repose; and the placid regularity of her features indicate that the sleep of life met
that of death without communicating to the beautiful outlines of her face a cloud of anguish or pang
of mortal agony. From this point, or rather a little to the west, beneath a beech tree, we obtain a
good view of the Hall, facing south. Its style of architecture is Corinthian. From the main body of
the building rises a large, handsome, square, open tower, which contributes greatly to its noble appearance ;
and taken altogether, there is a style of effectiveness about it, dignified and elegant. The Italian
Gardens and the general view of the grounds are beautiful in the extreme, and well merit the eulogies
so lavishly bestowed upon them. Easily and pleasantly could we devote pages to their service, but
there are restrictions to our volubility; and so we pass on beside the balustrade, which separates the
lake from the garden, down a walk 50 feet wide and about 150 yards long, at the end of which is a
boat-house, containing a very fine and commodious pleasure-boat; and dashing up the terrace we find ourselves
in the Trellis Walk (Plate 3). This covered way is composed of iron work, 140 yards long, and about
15 feet high, over which clusters of roses, woodbine, and numerous other flowering plants and creepers
_ luxuriate. Standing at the southern end the view from it is most charming, and well adapted for
artistic treatment, embracing portions of the park, wood, lake, and islands, with the ley, and its groups
of beech and horse-chesnut. Each end of the walk contains three entrances, and is higher than the
other part. Down each side are oval windows; and on the outside, facing west, are ranges of flowers
the entire length, which literally impregnate the air with their perfume.
In admirable contrast to the brilliancy of the flower gardens is the quiet, secluded character of the
Promontory (Plate 4). The rock work is good, and not often so happily expressed; and as we sit
and gaze across the smooth surface of the lake, broken into occasional ripples by the rising fish, on the
opposite wood which rolls wave-like down to the shore, we are insensibly led to feel how soothing and
beautiful is the calm Poetry of Nature.
Following the course of the river Trent, which at one time ran through the lake, but was success-
fully diverted in 1853, we wind amongst masses of the white Rhododendron and orange Azalea, which
are particularly striking, in contrast to the purple colours formerly so much used. We were also struck
with the liberal use of the woodbine, foxglove, and Scotch thistle in these grounds, and the effect they
* This imposing piece of statuary is a cast from the Work of the celebrated sculptor, BaNVENUTO CELLINI, and bears the date MDLIII.
The original is at Florence.
produced was very agreeable and _ satisfactory. We also noticed on the margin of the river the
common bulrush and iris, and on its surface floated the lily in great profusion. Passing on, we cross
the Trent by means of a rustic bridge, and enter the American Gardens, where many very fine speci-
mens show themselves in native luxuriance. Going onwards, to the left is a small but choice Rosery,
and more to the right an extensive, well-kept, and productive Reserve Garden, laid out in a succession
of circular beds, containing an innumerable collection of hardy fruit and flowering plants. The long
pretty walk which we now tread is another very recent improvement; and passing beneath the over-
hanging boughs of some fine forest trees, we burst upon the magic and gorgeous Rainbow Walk! Let
us pause a moment in the midst of this beautiful floral vision, and reflect on the means bestowed upon
us, by an All-wise Being, to gild and make pleasant the hard walks of life. Flowers represent to
us a language understood by every one, from the child in its cradle to the old man in his dotage ; and
the genuine pleasure they afford is a proof of the integrity of the heart in the pure and simple reasonings
of nature. Why, or how, we need not reason—it is so; and no wonder that we love their bright
tints and sweet perfume; uo wonder that our friendship is so trusting, and our sympathy so great;
that the tear and the smile meet, when we thus go hand and hand together through life, and the
brotherhood becomes cemented by the faithful snowdrop on the grave!
There are some individual tints that have no sympathy with the gorgeousness of others; some that
rush across our vision like a fiery meteor in the blue sky, startling and vivid; but here all is brilliant,
natural, and blending, Two beds, divided by a gravel walk, in a direct line 200 yards long, slope
gently towards the river; each, about 9 feet wide, is planted with flowers to represent the colours of the
rainbow. The left side also contains a succession of circular raised beds, with festoons of roses; and
a background of hollyhocks tower up in front of a well-trimmed, thick hedge of evergreens, shaded in
turn by forest trees and others. The right, or north side, is bounded by a wall the entire length, and
facing this wall is a range of glass building, called the Trentham Wall Case. This is a conspicuous
and novel feature in these gardens, and forms the commencement of a successive range of glass houses,
400 yards long. They are connected with the Orangery, noticed below, and run entirely round the kitchen
garden, forming a delightful promenade amidst wall fruit and flower borders at all times of the year.
At the lower extremity of the walk is a wall of three arches, which is connected with the Orangery—
a conservatory 89 feet long and 60 feet wide, erected in the year 1843. The most remarkable
circumstance to be noticed in regard to this building is its flat glass roof, supported by hollow iron
-pillars, through which the water is conducted from the roof to a main drain below the surface. This
is the first recorded invention of the kind erected in England: it contains a very fine collection of plants.
We now pass through the kitchen garden, where everything is so conspicuously neat and orderly, and
such a marked attention shown to the lowest as well as the highest article in the vegetable world,
There is also a great display of fruit trees trained in the Bell shape, and several trellis walks regularly
covered by them. The system pursued in regard to fruit trees is singularly successful, and _ their
appearance is very tasteful and effective. We were particularly struck with the handsome-looking borders
of these walks, and the full, glowing character they presented. They are simply of ivy, trained in a
circular form at the top, from 12 to 16 inches high, and lined with flowers.
We now pass the Pine Pits, three in number, where those gigantic fellows are raised that do
such honour to the Horticultural Hemisphere. Also those wonderful Vinertes and Peach Houses, from
whence come the unrivalled cluster: and exquisite bloom that command the praise and commendation of
every beholder. And we might conscientiously say that it is in the knowledge, excellency, and
delicate beauty of fruit,—hardly studied, and with the most laborious attention acquired, that Trentham is
so justly celebrated ; and in the harmony, the grouping, and the elasticity of flowers that it is unsurpassed.
To the right we leave Mr Fleming’s house, a neat, elegant structure; to the left a long range of
building, including the office, fruit room, vegetable house, and | the “ Bothies,’ where every requisite
attention is shown to the comfort of the young men. And we were much pleased to observe that, by
the kindness of the Duke and Duchess, a commodious Bath-room, fitted with every convenience, has lately
been erected for their use. Such care speaks for itself, and we trust so worthy an example will be
extensively followed.
We now cross a rustic bridge thrown over a tributary of the river Trent, which meanders among over-
hanging trees and flowering shrubs, and come to the Melon pits, Orchid houses, Forcing pits, &c. As
we proceed there is a fine house of Chinese Azaleas, &c., and outside, down its length, are raised circular
beds with evergreen borders, containing several varieties of flowers intermingling with the graceful Humea.
At the end is a monster Scarlet Geranium, throwing out hundreds of blossoms. Before us is a
magnificent house of Geraniums, and connected with it an Aquatic house, where the Cyssus discolor
and other variegated foliage plants play an important part in a new style of design. It is intended in
(5)
this instance to produce by the massing of foliage an effect as rich and rare as that hitherto confined
to flowers; and there is certainly a gorgeousness about it, novel and perfect. To deal with the
various tints of each leafy mass with any degree of regularity or conclusiveness is next to impossible; it
is by dwelling intently on them that the most beautiful effect is rendered; and the Cyssus climbing above
and around all is like a richly carved and decorated framework round a picture of the highest class of
art. There are also some good specimens of Nymphia. The background is well filled up with fine
examples of rock work, and the towering Musa, &c.
To the rear of these buildings are the propagating sheds, and some more rooms for. the young
men, decorated with Messrs Minton’s encaustic tiles. Immediately facing these is a very excellent
Heath Pit, of great extent, containing a rare and choice collection. And directly following is what is
called the Children’s Garden, nicely laid out, and boasting a Swiss Cottage fitted up with every con-
venience for juvenile fétes. |
We now again cross the Trent by means of a ferry boat, to which are attached ropes for the
purpose of locomotion, noticing to our right an ancient looking stone bridge of four arches, and before
us, rising between two elm trees, a handsome clock tower, surmounted by a fine bronze figure of
Mercury. On landing we read lac non defit, and enter the Dairy, the walls of which are composed
of white china square tiles, with naturally coloured ivy-leaf borders. The floor is of the buff encaustic
tile, with ivy-leaf lines traversing it; and the milk pans are white on black slabs of slate, round which
a stream of water continually runs. On entering the Hall yard we look up, and in a niche of the
clock tower is a full-length figure of Admiral Sir Richard Leveson, celebrated as a commander under
Sir Francis Drake at the destruction of the Spanish Armada in 1588, In the north transept of St
Peter’s Church, Wolverhampton, there is a full-length Brass Statue of this warrior, represented in the
style of armour worn at that period; and the one referred to is a most excellent cast from the original.
At the dissolution, on the site of the Hall stood a Priory for canons of the Augustine order, which,
with its possessions, was granted to William, Duke of Suffolk, and subsequently purchased, with many
others, by the Leveson family, ancestors of the present noble owner. We now pass through
the Stable yard, out at the Lodge gates—the Lodge that so many thousands of “poor travellers”
gratefully remember—and across another tributary of the Trent, which comes down through the park.
To the right are the Fish stews, and the Poultry yard or Aviary, a very pretty descriptive building, in
the rustic Italian style, and which, for arrangement and finish in regard to its object, is not surpassed.
To the left are the extensive Farm buildings, and Workshops, where artisans of every trade labour
in supplying the wants of so large an establishment. Further on is the Girls’ School, a neat and
picturesque building, which is entirely supported by her Grace’s liberality and benevolence.
Returning, we pass into the Park, where so many thousands of the inhabitants of the neighbouring
districts find recreation, and hopefully search after health; where the song is raised, the laugh echoed,
and the busy feet move in the invigorating dance ; where the manly game of cricket brings its admirers,
and the happy faces of youth smile over the thoughts of their endless joys; where, as we now stand,
the western sun is scattering among the tops of the old trees the brilliant tints of its dying hour, the song
of the thrush is sinking into a soft plaintive melody, and the verdant leaves sigh and quiver as the
beautiful sleep of night falls, dream-like, o’er them; where, as we gaze, the evening star, radiant and
holy, breaks like a smile from its deep blue home on our upturned faces; and where, in this memoried
hour, we pause, and rest from ‘our pleasant labour, in the hope that the pages of “ Trentham” will be
read with as much pleasure as they were happily penned.
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ENVILLE HALL,
STAFFORDSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF STAMFORD
AND WARRINGTON.*
‘THe remains of antiquity in the neighbourhood of Enville are both numerous and interesting, and
belong to the earliest periods of English history, as well as to those eventful times between the Norman
Conquest and the Restoration. One spot that has always taken the lead in the county histories is
Kinfare, derived from kin-vaur, 7.e., the great edge or ridge, such being its natural formation, where,
on the summit of the hill, are to be seen the outlines of an extensive encampment, attributed by some
to Wulphere, a Mercian King, by others to the Danes; and a little below it, surrounded by a narrow
ditch, is atumulus, supposed to cover the remains of a Celtic Chief. Adjoining it, stands a large stone
pillar of curious shape, with deep notches cut in its surface, and held to be commemorative of an important
action fought here before the subjugation of the island by the Romans. There is also a singular cavern
worthy of notice. The place is scarcely an hour’s walk from Enville, and over ground once covered
by the ancient forest of Kinfare and Lutley. A short distance from Kinfare is Stourton Castle, the
birth-place of the celebrated Cardinal Pole, and the scene of some of the numerous engagements between
Charles I, and the Commonwealth. In the opposite direction is Kingswynford, a place of ancient date,
and the locality of a small Roman camp; and, a short distance further inland, rises the lofty conical
hill of Dudley, crowned by the ruins of its once lordly castle, the foundations of which were either built
or repaired about the year 760, by the powerful Saxon, Earl Dudo.
In the village of Enville the most ancient building is the Church, the origin of which, like many
‘others in England, is involved in obscurity. It contains many interesting relics of by-gone ages—one
a beautiful alabaster monument to the memory of Thomas Grey and his wife, who died in the year 1559,
and whose recumbent effigies form the upper part. The figure of a Priest lies under an arch near it;
and a stone slab, evidently the lid of a coffin, with a crosier carved in outline, is inserted in the
pavement of the southern porch. One of the windows, the arch of which appears to be Saxon, is
illuminated with some beautiful antique specimens of stained glass, and adjoining the pulpit are several
stalls, with richly-carved subsellias, such as were anciently used in cathedrals and collegiate churches,
The arches and columns of the central aisle, or nave, present two distinct styles of architecture, those on the
north side beg low and circular with massive columns, and those on the south of a Gothic character.
* His Lordship succeeded to the title and estates on the death of his erandfather the 26th of April, 1845. Creations—Baron Grey, 1603;
Earl of Stamford, 1628; Earl of Warrington and Baron Delamer, 1796.
In the year 1762, a stone coffin, inscribed “ Rogerus de Morf,’ was dug up at the west end; but of
the family to whom it refers little more is known beyond the fact that they hcld a small estate in the
parish, which still retains the name of Morfe, from the time of Edward II, to that of Richard II, when
it passed by marriage to the Lows.
Erdeswick, speaking of Enville, or Enfield, as it was called in his day, describes it as “a goodly
manor, and a park standing north-west from Whittington and Kinfare, something more than two miles,
where Thomas Grey, who died on the 20th of Elizabeth, built a very proper brick house.” A plate
of this house, given in Plots’ ‘Staffordshire, published in 1683, represents it as a rather small Gothic
edifice, with two central octangular towers, and windows with pointed arches. These towers form part
of the present Hall, being supported by two handsome projecting wings, partly embattled, with an
extensive range of buildings to the rear. Fronting the Hall is a lake that receives a small stream, which,
descending from the hills behind, forms some pretty cascades, overarched by a belt of fine forest trees.
These hills are covered with far-stretchng woods, abounding with game and noble trees, chiefly oak,
intersected by numerous interesting and delightful walks and drives, the whole of which were designed by
the country-loving and agreeable poet Shenstone, to whose memory the small ornamented Chapel that
overhangs the lake was erected.
Enville is a name long and familiarly known to those interested in the progress of horticulture by
the excellent qualities of the Enville Pine-apple, raised here; but it is within the last few years that
the Gardens generally have attained the distinctive and magnificent character for which they are celebrated.
Previous to 1850, the whole of the grounds did not occupy more than twenty acres, with an average
range of glass for forcing and other purposes, but shortly afterwards was commenced, on extensive plans
and in the most liberal spirit, the general improvement of the entire department. The designs for the
reconstruction of the grounds were by his Lordship’s gardener, Mr Aiton, whose excellent taste in
landscape-gardening is here fully illustrated. In this undertaking hundreds of men were employed, and
the rapidity of its execution was such that, in about three years, the fundamental part was completed.
The ornamental grounds, or flower-gardens, including the site of the former ones, now cover a surface
of seventy-six acres, and extend in a westerly direction over the face of a hill, of a gentle, undulating
character, partly natural, partly artificial, that afterwards assumes bolder outlines, and, clothed with far-
stretching woods and noble trees, forms one of a chain of the new red sandstone formation that intersects
this part of the country. Much of the newness of such improvements is, and necessarily will be, apparent
some years to come, but all that art could possibly do to soften this effect has been done.
Facing the entrance gates, which are composed of wrought-iron, coloured bronze and gilt, and surmounted by
the Earl’s coronet, is a very compact aviary, containing numerous specimens of British birds, and several of
those beautiful shy little creatures, the Californian quail. Another compartment is devoted principally to aquatic
species, among which are some Mandarin ducks, and crested cranes. There is also an American bird of
a rich deep plumage, almost as large as a hen turkey, called the crax, or curassow. Adjoining is the head
of the broad or straight walk—a narrow strip of ground about 120 yards long—planted as a ribbon.
border with flowers, whose height gradually increases on each side from the centre of the walk, which
is bounded on one side by a_ brick-wall, with trained roses, and on the other by a thick evergreen
hedge. This, the first acquaintance with the floral beauties of the Gardens, is quite unannounced, but the
scene is too rich and effective to be anything but delightful. At the extremity of this walk spreads out
in different stages of perfection the broad and expansive surface of the principal garden. Stretching
away, in a variety of fine undulations, is the green and_ elastic turf,* illuminated by numerous
irregularly-planned circular flower-beds, containing masses of cualceolaria, geraniums of different varieties,
verbenas, alyssum, salvias, pentstemons, and other gay-flowering plants. The whole of the beds are
planted in the ring-system—the centre being composed of one particular flower, with an outer border or
“ring” of another variety, by which a pleasing and effective contrast is obtained. The number of plants
required each year for this magnificent array is, as may well be supposed, almost incredible. There are
also, scattered over the entire surface, numerous standard roses, whose beautiful crowns and irregular height
relieve and enrich the general character. Opposite the walk, stands out in native luxuriance, a remarkably
fine specimen of Pinus macrocarpa, thirty-two feet in height, considered to be one of the most perfect
in England. From this point a curved walk, on the verge of the ground, extends upwards of a quarter
of a mile, the narrow strip of land by which it is bordered being planted with successive lines of golden-
chain geraniums, lobelia, and other flowers, backed by standard roses and_hollyhocks. Opposite the
* Three -horse-drawn mowing-machines are constantly employed during the summer in keeping the turf in the gardens and on the cricket-
ground in order.
Conservatory it is crossed by a broad gravel walk leading to that building, and flanked by small cypher
beds planted with dwarf flowers and the graceful humea, and then sweeping onwardsdown the face of
a hill seems to lose itself amongst masses of variegated shrubbery.
The Conservatory, a most striking and commanding building, was erected three years ago, at a cost
of nearly £10,000. It is of a mixed kind of architecture, partaking both of the Gothic and Moorish
styles. Two domes, or cupolas, each 60 feet high, rise from the body of the building, which is
(160 feet long, by 75 feet wide. The principal part of the skeleton is composed of cast iron, with
wrought-iron ribs and girders, the sash-work being of wood. Hollow columns support the span-roof
and carry off the water, and the whole is ventilated by sashes regulated by ornamental chain baskets.
It is used chiefly as a winter garden, and for the cultivation of bulbous plants, and about the time of
Christmas, when those rich flowers, with great quantities of azalias, camellias, ericas, rhododendrons, and
several varieties of creepers, with numerous other plants, are in full bloom, the appearance of the
interior is remarkably beautiful and imposing. It is surrounded by broad gravel walks, on the borders
of which are placed, in large moveable tubs, several sweet-bays, trained to represent orange trees.
There are also some antique vases, chiefly in terra cotta, on pedestals, and down a walk extending
from the centre facing the Hall are similar ornaments, a small fountain (dolphins) and copies of the
celebrated Warwick vase. On the summit of the hill, exactly above the Conservatory, are two pairs of eagles,
and a couple of horned owls, inclosed in an iron cage with a rock-work column, in which recesses are
made for their retreat. From this point, or rather a little below it, a most excellent view of the
Gardens, Conservatory, the Church, just peeping through the trees, and surrounding country is obtained.
To the left, in a hollow, is a small lake which seems never free from the noise and bustling gaiety of
great quantities of wild fowl; and on its margin stands, half withered and alone, a picturesque and ancient
oak. To the right extends a deep fringe of large forest trees and evergreens, with borders of flowers;
and immediately behind the fountain is a handsome purple beech, and a fine horse-chesnut tree.
These two trees, towering from the midst of clusters of brilliant flower-beds and the undulating carpet
of fine turf, are noble features in this scene, and give more than common interest to its beautiful
and expressive character.
On the opposite side of this line of trees stands the Museum, a small Gothic building, containing
many valuable specimens of natural history, and other interesting objects. Facing it are some fine
groups of beech and lime trees, whose lower branches rest on and spread a considerable distance over the
surface of the soil—a circumstance attributable, we were told, to the horizontal direction taken by the roots from
being unable to penetrate the strata of hard sandstone on which they stand. A short distance above the
Museum is what is considered the gem of the gardens, a specimen of the Picea nobilis. It is certainly
fine and beautifully formed, and may well claim that distinction. In height it is about twenty feet, and
was found a few years ago amongst a mass of miscellaneous shrubbery. There are also, relieved by a
succession of large circular beds of flowers and standard roses, several excellent specimens of Deodars and
Coniferce generally, including a thriving Douglasii. In this part of the grounds the walks are beautifully
curved, with rich and most effective borders. The Sunk Walk, as seen from the embankment of the
small lake above it, especially commands attention, both for the taste displayed in its decoration, and
the expressive diversity of its more permanent features.
We stood on this embankment of the sheet of water, called Jordan’s Pool, which contains the
“Large Fountain” (see Plate); below, on the right, extends another small lake, in which are placed
the colossal stone-like figures that compose the “ River-horse Fountain” (see Plate). The early morning
had been densely misty, and the entire face of the surrounding country hidden from view; but as the
day advanced the vapoury mass gradually rolled away, and the sun at length shone out in all the genial
splendour of an autumnal day. A vista through some trees carried the eye across a well-wooded
undulating country to the Dudley hills, and the coal-fields of South Staffordshire, and on to the distant
outlines of the mountainous parts of Shropshire and Worcestershire. Slightly to the right were seen
portions of the finely-timbered and extensive grounds and park of Himley, the splendid ancestral domain
of Lord Ward, who is also owner of Dudley Castle, and many other large estates in this part of
the country. Scarcely a breath of air was felt, and the water lay still and unruffled as a mirror,
reflecting the depths of the blue sky, and the gigantic outlines of a mist-gathered cloud that towered
high above the wave-like foliage of the woods. As we stood admiring the beauty and tranquillity of the
scene, a bubbling sound of water, at first gentle and gathering force by degrees, broke out, and we
beheld the commencement of one of the most beautiful aquatic displays it is possible to conceive. This,
the large fountain, is on a level with the surface of the lake, and composed of five jets, the central
one throwing a column of water 150 feet high; the supply being obtained from a large reservoir on the
hill, to which it is first pumped by the united action of two engines, each of thirty-horse power. The
day was one of the most favourable, as the slightest’ breeze spoils the reoularity of the display, and the
clear blue sky, into which towered the conical head of the massive cloud, with the crystal stream darting -
across it, brought distinctly out the most beautiful and effective features of the fountain. In the
course of a few minutes it had reached its culminating point, leaping like a bright and joyous thing of
life high into the air, and falling around in absolute clouds of the most brilliant and variegated colour.
We stood watching this ‘superb spectacle till, at a given signal, it gradually sunk as if tired with its
exertions; the bosom of the lake caught its last murmuring ripple, and all was still.
The River-horse Fountain was next put in motion, and, with its characteristic streams darting and
splashing about in every direction, formed a strong but strikingly picturesque contrast to the more lofty
pretensions of its neighbour. The central figure throws a single jet seventy feet, and those surrounding
it, sixteen others, to a height of forty feet. The margin of the lake is planted with flowering shrubs
and deciduous trees, while over the gently rising hills that branch from it are scattered groups of ornamental
plants and flowers. When this fountain is in full play, supported as it is by so rare a combination of
_natural and decorative scenery, the effect is really grand and impressive. During the Enville fétes, these
lakes and the principal part of the gardens are gorgeously illuminated—as many as 160,000 variegated
lamps being sometimes used—and mimic naval engagements, accompanied by the most brilliant’ Pyrotechnic
displays, sometimes enacted on their surface.
At the bottom of the hill, near the Hall, there is a very beautiful specimen of the Taxodium distichum,
forty feet high, and adjoining it a single Rhododendron of remarkable dimensions, being upwards of 100
feet in circumference. The Countess of Stamford’s Garden is a pretty, delightful spot, commanding an
excellent view of the Conservatory and the contiguous grounds. A fountain, consisting of a single
jet deau, darting into the air m a long thin silvery line, falls into a_ shell-grooved basin, surrounded
by several small circular beds of the choicest plants. Rustic baskets, filled with a select variety of
flowers, stand here and there on the soft green turf, protected on one side by a semi-circular fringe
of yew, laurel, and other evergreens, with marginal lines of Verbena venosa, calceolaria, some of
the rarest geraniums, and others. A short distance from this well-arranged garden is an interesting
group of the Tulip-tree (Liriodendron tulipifera).
The Kitchen Garden is divided from the ornamental grounds by the road leading to the village. It
is nearly square in form, and occupies about four acres, the whole being surrounded by a brick-wall,
twelve feet high, and trained with flourishing, hardy fruits. All the houses, which constitute an acre of
glass, have been erected within the last five years, and consist of a Trentham wall-case, 365 feet long,
six vineries, a new Holland house, two stove, one strawberry, and five forcing-houses, and a range of pine-
pits. The black Hamburgh and black Barbarossa grapes are largely cultivated, which attain, with
other fruits, a superior degree of excellence. We saw some fine specimens of the Lilium giganteum, ten
feet high, and several other rare and interesting plants, including some beautiful Ferns and Ericas. On the
outside of the garden walls is a piece of ground, rather more than two acres in extent, where the principal
part of the common vegetables and much hardy fruit is grown.
The beautiful plateau fronting the entrance gates is the Cricket Ground, on which are annually contested
some of the most interesting matches in England. It consists of six and a quarter acres, and, although
apparently level, has a gradual incline of eleven feet. The Earl of Stamford, who is passionately attached
to this rare old English and manly game, as well as most other field sports, spares no expense in making
it one of the finest and most liberally-conducted in the kingdom.
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BOW OOD,
WILTSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE MOST HON. THE MARQUIS OF LANSDOWNE.
Bowoop anciently formed part of the royal and magnificent forest of “‘ Pewisham,” which extended
from Chippenham almost to Devizes, and from Lacock to Calne, having the River Avon for its north-
western boundary. It is said that James I amused himself by hunting deer in this forest; but after
his decease it was disafforested and granted partly to the ancestors of Lord Audley, and partly to the
family of Carey, in Devonshire. Bowood was included in the first-mentioned portion. It was also
comprised amongst other estates seized by Parliament as forfeited on the establishment of the Commonwealth.
It was then laid open, and tradition relates that the Parliamentary Commissioners, wishing to convey the
deer it contained over Lockswell Heath to Spye Park, were for some time unable to accomplish their
object. In their embarrassment the clothiers of the neighbourhood came to their aid, and constructed a
skirted road of broad cloth between the places, along which the wild and obstinate deer were safely
driven. ng
In the reign of Charles II, this domain was granted to Sir Orlando Bridgeman, Kt., the Lord
Keeper, and one of that monarch’s favourites. His son, who came next into possession of the property,
having fallen into difficulties, it was purchased by John Fitzmaurice, first Earl of Shelburne, second_ son,
of the Earl of Kerry, by the daughter and heiress of the celebrated Sir William Petty, whose large
estates in Ireland and Hampshire he inherited in right of his mother, and added the surname of Petty
to his own of Fitzmaurice in consequence. On the decease of the then Earl of Kerry, in 1818,
‘without issue, the title and estates fell to his cousin, the present Marquis of Lansdowne, and the title
of Earl of Kerry, merging into the Marquisate, was taken up by his eldest son. At the time Bowood
was first purchased by Lord Shelburne, a mansion had been commenced by the Bridgemans, which was
afterwards completed by Lord Shelburne, and some years subsequently was further improved by the
erection of the front portico and other embellishments from the designs of Adams, the great architect of
the day. His son and successor, William, second Earl of Shelburne (afterwards created Marquis of
Lansdowne), continued making additions by adding the west wing (part of which forms the back-ground
of our view), and an extensive range of offices in the rear, and also a suite of private apartments,
forming the east wing. These completed, the improvements of the park and grounds commenced.
Eighty acres was dissevered from the park and formed into a private garden; this was enclosed and
planted from 1770 to 1775, with a great variety of native and exotic trees, and now form the pleasure
grounds. Prior, however, to this date, extensive plantations, enclosing a large extent of park, had been
commenced ;—these have now grown into large timber, and form so important a feature of the neighbourhood.
The pleasure grounds encircle three sides of the mansion, and as they are partly on an higher level
than the house, and one thickly clothed with trees, they form an admirable back-ground to it, especially
when viewed from an opposite direction. These grounds are admitted by every person of taste to form the
beau-rdeal of English garden scenery. Extensive lawns and far-stretching glades are separated by trees
of stately growth, and masses of evergreens judiciously planted for producing intricacy and effect, while
the natural undulation of the surface, and occasional views of distant scenery, bounded by the bold
escarpment of the Wiltshire downs in the back-ground, and the richly-wooded valley and lake below,
help most materially to form that variety which constitutes the great charm of the place.
It has frequently been a matter for discussion, whether the grounds of Bowood were laid out under
professional dictation, or were the work of its noble proprietor. The great natural taste for the fine
arts so eminently possessed by the first Marquis of Lansdowne, and which has so fully descended to his
son, the present Marquis, leads us to believe that he had much to do in designing the improvements
then carried out. It is said, the assistance of his friend, the Hon. C. Hamilton, a great planter and
lover of trees, and that of the first Lord Chatham, at that time a frequent visitor at Bowood, was also
given. When relieved from political duties, the elder Pitt spent much of his time in garden improvements
and planting at his seat, the Hayes, in Kent. The proprietor of the adjoining property at Spye Park,
Sir A. Baynton, is also said to have been consulted on the arrangement and kind of trees,to be planted.
Brown, the great landscape gardener, was then in the zenith of his celebrity, and some clumps of
trees in the park and grounds induce a suspicion of his presence and participation in the changes then
made. It is more than probable that the lake is one of his creations, as the damming up of a
natural valley, in a similar manner to the one at Bowood, had previously been effected by him at
Blenheim.
What share, however, is due to the advice and co-operation of other minds, professional or amateur,
we have no means of deciding, but we incline to the opinion that the main features of the place owe
their character to the taste of the Marquis himself, who was much devoted to arboriculture, and furnished
a nursery in the grounds which supplied him for years with the various trees which now adorn the
park and grounds, and how much modern Bowood is indebted to the taste for planting, possessed by the
first Marquis, can be judged by the noble plantations which surround it on all sides.
Judging from the many fine specimens of rare trees which yet remain in the grounds, we should
say that all or nearly all the exotic trees which were then introduced were planted, and that not in
single specimens only. Some scores of cedars of Lebanon, and other pines; hemlock spruce, American
oaks, Virginian cedars, Arbor vitees, Tulip trees, and many other rare species, must have been originally
planted. Many of these trees are now remarkable specimens, and add greatly to the beauty and
interest of the grounds. In 1850 a portion of these interior grounds, formerly used as a nursery garden,
was planted as a Pinetum, and contains nearly every specimen of conifer introduced.
Soon after Bowood came into possession of the present Marquis, the original of the upper terrace,
as shown in our view, was made. This was about 1810 or 181]. It was laid out as a parterre, on
erass, and continued much in the same state until 1851, when a second terrace was made by enclosing
an additional piece of ground in front of the older one, and the width of the main part of the mansion,
and which was also made to include an entrance court to the principal front. A retaining wall,
surmounted with balustrading and ornamented with vases, separates it from the park. The design for
the building was given by George Kennedy, Esq., who has very successfully adapted his style to that of
the mansion, and the two terraces form a great improvement to the west front of the house, being backed
by the long line of buildings comprising a part of the house, the orangery, and oflices. At the time
of making the addition of a second terrace on a lower level, the upper garden was laid down in a fresh
design, as shown in our view, and otherwise remodelled.
The surface of the park is diversified by a succession of low hills, separated by valleys or dells of
great beauty, and- richly furnished with wood, while on the bottom of the main valley, which separates
the park into two divisions, flows the lake for upwards of a mile, winding as it approaches the House,
and washing the foot of the lawn, on which the mansion stands, at some elevation above it. The lake
obtains its greatest width eastward from the House, where the head and termination are concealed
by masses of overhanging trees. The lake is indeed the great feature of the park, and, with its
regular outline and rich accompaniments of wood and lawn, forms a rare combination of natural scenery
seldom if ever met with so perfect in artificial creation. The lake was formed by throwing a head
across the lower part of the valley, damming back the rivulet which flowed on the bottom. The waste
waters of the lake are made to flow over this head in the form of a natural cascade. Having a fall
of from twenty to thirty feet, the water falls over grand masses of artificial rock, arranged and planted
with perfect taste, and constitutes a scene at once beautiful and true to nature. The accompanying’
grottos and rock-work, now that they are covered with ivy and overhung with trees, are all in perfect
Keeping with the place. These rock-works and cascades were designed and executed by a person of
the name of Lane, who had great natural ingenuity in making these descriptions of works, and who is
celebrated for making the splendid grotto at Oatlands.
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STAFFORDSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON. THE EARLS OF SHREWSBURY.
THE principal entrance to the Gardens is beneath a bridge of one arch, called the ‘‘ Dry Bridge,” thrown
across the head of the valley in which they are situated, a short distance from a soul lake, which, on
the high ground, stretches out towards the stables, a range of brick buildings with an extensive stone
front and an embattled gateway, flanked by massive square towers. Near this bridge is another, long and
solidly built, with stone balustrades, the north-eastern side being washed by the lake, while from the
Gardens it appears simply as a terrace, terminating the view in that direction. On entering, the first
object that claims attention is a marble bust of the original genius of the valley, Charles, 15th Earl of
Shrewsbury. It rests beneath the dome of a model of Grecian art—the celebrated Choragic Temple of
Lysiscrates; and on the base of the pedestal on which it stands, we read the expressive and appropriate
inscription, ‘“‘ He made the desert smile.” In front of the building is a beautifully designed monogram
in box of the letter S, by Mr Whitaker, who for several years has had the management of these
Gardens, and to whose skill and taste many of their attractions are due. The interstices are filled with
a material from the Potteries, called “‘ Grog,” which, when first laid down, is of a bright golden colour ;
the borders are composed of pounded brick, made with a highly-coloured description of clay, and broken
into small fragments for the purpose. From a distance, the effect of this gay dress, illuminating the
curves and lines of the dark green box, is quite novel, and, we believe, peculiar to these Gardens.
A little to the right we saw a specimen of the Wellingtonia Gigantea: minute and unpretending as
it then was, how wondrous in size might it not become! We also noticed here some fine specimens of
the Deodar cedar, Douglas, Chilian, and other pines. At intervals beneath the garden walls were
placed some characteristic marble busts. The form and treatment of these walls originated at Alton, and
certainly deserve notice; we believe, however, that they are not imitated elsewhere. They are composed
of stone, about ten or twelve feet high, and scolloped. On the apex of each division are placed vases
planted with Irish Yew, and supported, as it were, on pilasters formed of Cotoneaster and Ivy, running
_up the face of the wall from an evergreen base. The entire range of outer walls are of this form, with
corresponding arrangements, and they certainly are very picturesque. On the left the ground is laid out
in large beds, divided by gravel walks with box borders. It is known as the Scollop Walk, and contains
an excellent collection of roses and other flowers effectively arranged. Passing down this walk we reach
the Conservatories, and so on to the Bath Garden. A careful examination of this Plate will
give the key to the design of the building and its accessories without our entering into more than
a general description. The beauty and solidity of painting is faithful representation, and nothing seems
wanting in the artist’s treatment of the subject before us to render it complete. In the background
rise, from the edge of dense masses of ever-varying foliage, the parapet of the bridge before-mentioned,
*The whole of these estates were left to Lord Bernard Howard, second son of his Grace the Duke of Norfolk, K.G.; and his
Grace intends to keep up the Gardens for the recreation and enjoyment of the Public.
and the outlines of the structure containing the bust of Earl Charles. On the extreme right a portion
of the Scollop Walk runs up to the Conservatories, terminated by a flight of steps, and bordered in turn
by an ornamental cupola and a balustrade surmounted with flowers in vases. Beneath the walls are
numerous flower-beds, from which rise stone columns crowned with vases, and divided by the tapering
cypress. In the foreground we discern, between marble or cast metal vases containing flowers, prettily laid
out beds, divided by the descriptive walks previously mentioned. The elegant Humea is supported on each
side by marble statues, and beneath the wall a mass of flowers scatter over its face the reflection of their
gay hues; and a little beyond them a fountain throws up its clear stream from the midst of a floral circle
in front of an alcove or summer-house, quite beneath a turfy bank which forms part of the terrace above
it. This terrace, formerly called the “Golden Gate Walk,” was altered several years ago by Mr
Nesfield, who then named it, in compliment to the Lady Mary Talbot, now Princess Doria-Pamfili-Landi,
“Lady Mary’s Terrace ;” and effective and beautiful as it is, it but prepares the way to another and
another beyond it. In fact, there are five or six terraces, ranging one above the other at this particular
spot, all varying, but equally characteristic and interesting. From this we ascend to the Gothic Tower,
and, winding up its cork-serew stair, step out on a small balcony, and the beauties of the valley are
ours. The view is indeed striking from this point; terrace rises above terrace on each side, in all the
rich tints of their decorative garb—foliage and flower. Immediately below us, to the right, the dripping,
or cork-screw fountain, composed of heavy stone tiers projecting one above another from a. cireular
tower, the water falling from ledge to ledge to a large stone basin, sends up its pleasant murmurs to
where we stand. <A little lower down, we trace the outlines and descriptive character of the various
terraces, that of the Lady Mary's Garden being conspicuous. At its extremity is a very fine Gothic
window, and an iron gate of a handsome pattern, which, at one time, with the large pine-apples on
the summit of the conservatories, were gilt. In the background <Alion Towers throw out ‘their dark
shadows in the variety and irregularity of form in which they are erected. The celebrated Pugin
was the principal architect; but the building has grown up under the direction of ‘more than one, and
at different times, which accounts for the mixed character of its appearance. It looks imposing from
this point, which is probably the most commanding in the Gardens. A short distance beyond
it rises a high, square tower, called the “ Flagstaff Tower,’ which was intended as the repository of
a remarkably fine collection of armour, and other memorials of antiquity; but it is not used for that
purpose now. Looking directly across the valley we distinguish a series of stone steps, which break
out here and there from a mass of foliage as they ascend towards the upper ridge; they are called
Jacob's Ladder. A little to their left is the Harper's Cottage, in which years past resided one of a
class originally distinct, and occupying, both in public and private estimation, a superior and important
position—a Welsh Bard. How unspeakably touching must have been the tones of his harp, sweeping
over the valley in the calm eve of a summers day! But the harp is hushed, and the cottage hearth
is desolate. And yet, how impressively beautiful it must be when, in the glorious hues of summer, the
setting sun throws the depths of the vale into a warm and mellow shade; when the long, silvery streams
of the fountains leap upwards across the dark shadows of the pine, and their music mingles with the
gushing song of birds; when the air teems with perfume, and the flowers in dewy coronets hang their
heads and silently listen, as it were, to the ecstasies of nature. A little lower down the valley is a
large Chinese Pagoda Fountain, which throws a volume of water ninety feet high. To supply this and
other fountains,—twelve in number,—cascades, and the whole demand at the Towers, there are eight pools,
which rise in irregular terraces and extent to the summit of the hill, to which point it is brought by means
of a private canal, cut expressly from a spring of fine water, at a place called Ramshorn, a distance
of three miles. To the south-west, peeping above a table-land covered with trees, we catch a glimpse
of the walls of an old castle, grim and grey; and, as we stand here in the midst of its associations, |
what better place to glance at its earlier history and more solitary state?
Alveton, Aulton, or Alton Castle, as it has been severally called, the original residence of the Earls
of Shrewsbury in this country, was built in the reign of Henry II, by Bertram de Verdun, the founder
of the neighbouring Abbey of Croxden. It stands on a rocky precipice, on the south bank of the
river Churnet, and was strongly fortified both by nature and art. From the Verduns it descended to
the Furnivals, and thence to the Nevills, and by the marriage of the celebrated John Talbot, Earl of
Shrewsbury, with the heiress of that race, the manor and Castle of Alton became the property of that
nobleman, in whose family it remained till the death of the late Earl, who was the last heir of that
branch of the family. It was battered down in the troublesome times of the Commonwealth from the
table-land before us, called Bunbury Hill, and has been in ruins ever since. Adjoining the ruins, John,
the late Earl, began to erect an edifice, with chapel and cemetery, for decayed priests; but he left it
in a rather unfinished state, in which it still remains. The new building, however, forms a conspicuous
feature in the valley, with its grey turrets, and bold, abrupt outlines starting from the edge of the
perpendicular cliff.
In the year 1809 the site of Alton Towers, and the whole of the beautiful grounds adjoining, was
a bare, bleak rabbit-warren; and the only habitation a lonely farm-house, called Alton Lodge, which
stood near the site of the present imposing structure. It formed part of the manor of Alton, possessed
by Earl Charles, as he is still called, but whose principal residence, previously, was Heythrop House,
Oxfordshire. Being a man strongly endued with the spirit of improvement, he was led, from various
circumstances, to prefer Alton to his other estates for the prosecution of his designs ; and the wonderful
conception and taste he possessed found ample scope in rendering singularly effective the naturally good
but rugged features of the place. It would be interesting, but foreign to our purpose, to trace the
eradual development of his labours; the immense sums of money he expended, and the artistic skill
he brought into play, assisted and consolidated by that of the celebrated Wzalbraham, soon surmounted all
obstacles, and laid the foundation of a perfect gem of scenic beauty. Earl Charles gave the name of
Alton Abbey to the structure he erected; but John, the next Earl, on his succession, named it Alton
Towers, and also steadily followed the worthy example of his predecessor in improving and embellishing
the estate.
On the eminence or table-land, called Bunbury, or Bonebury Hill, previously alluded to, there existed
a few years ago the remains of a very extensive fortress, supposed by some to have been erected by
Coelred, King of Mercia, when he was invaded by Ina, King of the West Saxons, in 716; some historians,
however, give it an earlier date. It was of an irregular form, encompassed on the northern sides, the
others being inaccessible by nature, with a double, and sometimes treble trench, and included an area of
one hundred acres. From the site of this fortress the whole of the stone used in the erection of Alton
Towers was obtained; and it is now planted with oak, spruce, and other trees, and laid out in
numerous walks; therefore, although the interest of antiquity is attached to the spot, its representation
is hidden. On the site of the ruins of Alveton, or Alton Castle, erected by Bertram de Verdun, there
is but little doubt that a Saxon fortress previously existed, as the name is so purely Saxon, signifying,
literally, an old fortified hill, As we stand and look around on the various descriptions of trees, both
native and foreign, vigorous in growth and beautiful in form, we are the more surprised that scarcely one
stood there forty years ago. Everywhere, on whatever point the eye turns, foliage is relieved by terrace,
and terrace by flower; temple and tower, turfy dais and grotto, fountains and statuary, with endless vases
in brilliant crowns, give the most varied and enlivened character to a scene as enchanting as it is novel.
Descending from the Gothic Tower we branch off into a carriage-road leading to Uttoxeter. <A
short distance down it we come to a vista which gives a complete view of the principal features of the
Gardens at a glance. The form of the valley from this point is similar to that of a horse-shoe; the
upper part spreads out considerably, and rather abruptly contracts just below us, terminating in a ravine,
crossed by the Churnet Valley line of railway. The Gardens, as first laid out by Earl Charles, were
much more extensive than now, and from this point their original extent may easily be traced. A little
further down we enter the Rock Walk, which presents as fine a specimen of that description of rock
scenery as any we remember to have seen. In some instances the rocks beetle over the pathway, and
seem to menace with instant destruction all who venture beneath them. In others they burst out in
bold lines and frowning faces, as rugged and stupendous as a million of ages can make them. They
are of the new red sandstone formation, with stratas of mixed gravel and clay. There is one rock, the largest
of all, which beetles and darkens over a turf-covered piece of table-land, called Ina’s Rock, and supposed to
be the scene of a battle fought by that warrior when he mvaded Coelred’s dominions, as previously alluded
to. From this walk we hear the waters of the Churnet leaping and tumbling down their rocky bed below us.
On the opposite side of the garden valley the walks are similar, but the rocks are not so massive and frowning.
Throughout this valley the Conifere family are conspicuously fine, and their dark tints, and variety of
form and foliage, give great expression to the character of the place. The soil seems decidedly
favourable to their growth. The oak, beech, mountain ash, and other forest trees are in a flourishing
condition; but we- look in vain for the giant sons of centuries, with their long straggling arms and
massive trunks,—youth and vigour particularly mark a rising generation: there are no examples of might
and sturdy endurance to point out the grandeur of time, or characterise its glory.
Returning up the Rock Walk—and there are several—we find here and there quaint traces of Karl
Charles’s style, in remnants of what were imitatory organic remains of a former period, cut out of the
solid rock; ‘and beneath the Gothic Tower is a small cave, in which, years ago, was confined a large
black bear: it was subsequently preserved at the Towers. We pass on till we reach the Colonnade
Garden, which is so faithfully transcribed that any other description is unnecessary ; and a_ little
further on we come to the head of a beautiful cascade, which swells and tumbles over its rocky ledges
till it is lost in a small lake below, over which is thrown a bridge, considered to be a perfect model
of Southwark Bridge, London. The view from this point is very picturesque, and deservedly admired.
A little further on we pass some very fine specimens of the Hemlock Spruce; and, branching across
the valley, commence ascending “ Jacob’s Ladder,” till we reach a pretty walk, completely arched in by
continuous masses of trees and shrubs. There are many of these cool and shady walks leading
in different directions over the Gardens, and they always open at a point from whence the most exquisite
scenes flash out, creating surprise and delight by their variety and richness. There is a conspicuous amount
of artistic skill in the arrangement of this effect; the eye, becoming accustomed to the dark green
foliage of the canopied way, is the more easily struck by the sudden display of masses of brilliant
flowers; and this thought forcibly struck us as we reached a dais of turf, and looked on the
charms of the Vista Valley. On this dais formerly stood a large Chinese Temple, but it is occupied
now ‘solely by Yew trees, clipped in a conical form. On the opposite side we have a good view of the
Conservatories, six in number; but in the winter, the corridors running between each are closed in by
sliding doors, so that they have the appearance of one large house. In summer these corridors are
filled mostly with scarlet Geraniums. Fronting this building, and crowning the columns of the
Colonnade in that Garden, are white marble statues of the Muses, flanked by Melpomene and Thalia,
with Apollo in the centre; and a little to the left, looming, as it were, through the foliage of the trees,
is a massive druidical building, in imitation of a portion of Stonehenge. Ascending another terrace to
a small verandah, we obtain a fine view of the corresponding terrace on the opposite side, on which are
beautiful marble statues of Ceres and Ganymede. ‘The latter is one of two that many years ago were
the supporters of a very elaborate marble chimney-piece at Heythrop House. It had been removed to
an old lumber-room, and was only found five or six years since, when it was erected on the spot it
now occupies. We next reach another terrace, and, beneath the verandah of the Harper’s Cottage, enjoy
the beautiful and rich scene that glows before and around us, Above the Ganymede Terrace and further
to the left is what was formerly called the Dutch Garden, from being entirely devoted to that character
of plants, but now known as the Prometheus Garden. In the centre is a statue of that demi-god,
and a fountain dashes its jetty stream far above it. From this point a very distinct echo is obtained
from the Garden alluded to.
Following the path leading towards the entrance to the Gardens we passed some remarkably dense
masses of Fhododendron, which appear to thrive m a wonderful manner; some single plants presenting
extensive dimensions in different parts of the Gardens. When in full flower the effect they produce is
imposing and brilliant indeed, every variety known being cultivated. Proceeding up a gravel road. to the
left, we come to the Entrance Gateway to Alton Towers, which was recently erected at the commence-
ment of the high walls which range on either side of the road, that on the right being very massive
and imposing. In fact, walking leisurely along, we could easily fancy ourselves before the walls of
some feudal stronghold in its brightest days, so strongly is the character exemplified. Through this
gateway the public are not admitted, so that this side of the house is strictly private. Passing through
a low postern door in the wall, we come to the New Curdens) the whole of which, with the “houses,”
four in number, were laid out and designed by Mr Whitaker about eight years ago. The houses, which
contain some rare specimens of plants, are light, useful constructions, about sixty feet in length and twenty
feet wide, with a span roof, and the whole of the trellis-work and fastenings composed of galvanised iron.
The site of the Vegetable and Fruit Garden opposite, eight years ago, was an immense rubbish. heap,
surrounded by a wild, uncultivated piece of land. Within six months after commencing, the accumulation
of years was removed, and the whole extent laid out, planted, and is now in a most flourishing condition.
We next come to the Conservatory Garden, in the centre of which is a fountain of wrought stone, the
basement formed into a star, and the jets representing the Prince of Wales’s feather. The Conservatory,
also the work of Mr Whitaker, is a very fine building, about ninety feet long and twenty feet wide,
composed of galvanised iron and plate-glass. In the centre it rises into a lofty dome, flanked at the
extremities by two smaller ones. In addition to the usual collection of plants, it formerly contained
some fine busts of Napoleon, Cicero, Seneca, and others; also a beautifully-carved marble column, and
rare pieces of sculpture, some being copies from the Vatican, consisting of Mnemosyne, Pomona, Flora,
Ceres, Minerva, Winter, and others. It connects the ground-floor rooms with the Picture Galleries and
Armoury, a magnificent suite of rooms, 460 feet long, with windows of richly-stained glass, representing
some era in historical warfare. The collection of armour, previous to its late distribution, was considered
to be one of the finest in England, and consisted of numerous unique specimens of every age and form,
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DERBYSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF HARRINGTON,
Evaston is five miles south of Derby. The road being flat and even, the Castle is not visible
until after leaving Alvaston; then a group of towers are displayed, the Church appearing to form a
part of the building.
The Manor of Elvaston belonged, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, to Tochi, but, when the
survey was taken, it was held by Geoffry Alselin. This Geoffry was ancestor of the Baronial family
of Hanselyn, whose heirs brought this manor and the rest of the barony to the Bardolfs. It afterwards
belonged to the Blount family; Walter Blount, one of the Lords Mountjoy, known as the warrior, was
born here, and died in 1403. At a later period it was possessed by the Stanhopes, whose noble
descendants still own the domain. Elvaston was one of the seats of Sir John Stanhope, father of the
first Earl of Chesterfield. |
In the month of January, 1643, Elvaston is said to have been plundered by the soldiers or
retainers of Sir John Gell, of Hopton, in Derbyshire, who, to gratify a savage and insatiable revenge,
desecrated the Church by defacing one of its costly marble monuments, that of Sir John Stanhope the
elder, and destroyed a flower garden,—the favourite resort of Lady Stanhope.
The Church of Elvaston had been given to the Priory of Shelford by the founder, Ralph
Hanselyn, and at the Dissolution in the 29th and 3lst Henry VIII, the Priory of Shelford, with a
greater part of its possessions, was granted to Sir Michael Stanhope.
A curious and somewhat inexplicable custom in reference to the support of this Church may here
be noticed. The inhabitants of Elvaston and Ock-brook were formerly obliged to brew, annually, certain
Church ales, at which they were all required to be present, and to contribute small payments, which
were applied to the repairs of the Church.*
The monument to Sir John Stanhope the elder, referred to, cost the enormous sum of £600—an
immense sum for those days. .
Elvaston Church was erected about the time of Henry VI. Indeed there is his monogram on the
Rood Screen im the Chancel, and at the entrance a cock and antelope, which were his supporters.
Besides the monument to Sir John Stanhope the elder, already alluded to, there is a fine marble
* Dodsworth’s MSS. in the Bodleian Library.
monument to his son, Sir John Stanhope the younger, in a Chapel on the north side of the Church.
Further down, is a beautiful Mural Tablet, by Canova, to the memory of Charles, third Earl of
Harrington, father of Leicester, the present and fifth Earl. The Chancel has been entirely new roofed,
the wall raised, a new window erected, and the whole completely repaired and decorated by the present
Earl. |
Over the Altar there is a magnificent painted window, by the celebrated Baillie, with this inscription :
“To the memory of Jane, Countess of Harrington, by her son Leicester, fifth Earl of Harrington.” The
subject represented is our Saviour preaching to the little children, from Overbeck’s design. It contains
portraits of several members of Lord MHarrington’s family, including his mother, his wife, and four
children—viz., The Lady Anna Chandos Pole, a son who died early, Lady Geraldine Stanhope, and
Viscount Petersham. Over the group are Angels bearing scrolls, with the arms of the present Earl,
his Countess, and those of his mother, descended from the Flemings, Earls of Wigtown. There is also
another beautifully-pamted window in this Chancel, erected by a former exemplary curate, the Rev.
Henry White, to the memory of his infant daughter, who lies buried beneath. This is the work of
Hardman, of Birmingham. Under this window there is likewise a very fine Marble Altar Tomb,
with a recumbent figure, modelled after death, by the celebrated sculptor, Richard Westmacott the younger,
which Dr Waagen pronounced one of the best works of this artist. The inscription is as follows: “In
a vault, under the Chancel of this Church, lie the remains of Algernon Russell Gayleard Stanhope. He
was the eldest son of Colonel the Honourable Leicester Fitzgerald Charles Stanhope, C.B., K.C.R.,
afterwards fifth Earl of Harrington. He was born 4th February, 1838, and died September 11th, 1847.
His last words were ‘Lord Jesus receive my spirit.” This monument is erected to his memory by
his mother, Elizabeth William Countess of Harrington.
Elvaston was said to be dependent on a religious house at Ockbrook, which was dependent on Dale
Abbey. All these abbey lands were granted in the time of the Protector Somerset to Sir Michael
Stanhope, who was brother to Anne Stanhope, the Protector’s second wife. A fine portrait of the
Protector, by Quentin Matsys, exists at Elvaston, and one of his wife, by Holbein, at Harrington House,
London. Dale Abbey went by succession to one of the sons of Sir John Stanhope, the elder, before
mentioned, who lies in Elvaston Church. This son was the ancestor of the present Earl Stanhope, better
known as Lord Mahon, the celebrated historian.
Shelford, Bretby, and other estates went to the eldest son of Sir John Stanhope, who was the
ancestor of the present Earl of Chesterfield, while Elvaston descended to the youngest son, the progenitor
of the Earls of Harrington.
Dale Abbey is well worth a visit. It is within five miles of Elvaston. The only remains of the
old Abbey are a magnificent arch, which is obliged to be kept in thorough repair by the Tenure of -the
land, it is said, and a curious small Chapel and Glebe-house adjoining. In this Chapel is a monument
to the father of the present Earl Stanhope, who is inscribed as “Lay Bishop of this place,” erected
by his tenantry. There is likewise a Hermitage on a hill-side behind the Chapel. The surrounding
country is very beautifully wooded and undulating. There is no dwelling-house, however, on this estate.
The walls of the Abbey have been taken to build the neighbouring farm-houses, but the foundations
remain to show how extensive the buildings connected with it must have been.
In Morley Church, near Spondon, are the painted glass windows which were taken out of the Abbey
when it was dismantled, and in Radbourne Church are the two carved chairs formerly in the Chancel
of the Abbey Church.
There is a curious couplet, still repeated in the Midland counties, on the four celebrated Nottinghamshire
Knights—
“‘Gervase the gentle, Stanhope the stout,
Markham the lion, and Sutton the lout.”
The Gardens at Elvaston Castle have very properly been as a sealed book until they had arrived
at something like perfection in the style adopted, and, that time having come, the present noble owner
has thrown them open to the public, and they are now the most celebrated in Europe for their collection
of rare and valuable evergreens, which, little more than a quarter of a century back, were very meagre, not
possessing anything worthy of notice except a group of cedars of Lebanon, surrounding the Castle, planted
by Capability Brown. The example here laid down for the introduction of a better and more artistic style
of gardening is most encouraging, inasmuch as it shows what can be accomplished within a reasonable
time; for now the present occupant of a domain may complete and enjoy, in his lifetime, much more than
our forefathers were able to achieve for their posterity even to the fourth generation. To gain this
desirable end, a new art was here invented, namely, that of removing trees of immense size, some, from
sciseonces of thirty miles, at all seasons, and with perfect success. Many such trees, centuries old, are now
‘flourishing with the renewed vigour of youth. This invention gives at once a power to the landscape
gardener to remodel, construct, and finish his design, which by any other means would have taken ages to
accomplish. Here, again, another new feature in landscape decoration has been attained by planting trees
in large masses, and blending the colours artistically (one of the great features in these gardens), and by
these means, at all times of the year, magnificent effects are produced in forest scenery. In other places
this has been achieved with flowers, but at LElvaston alone has this art been applied to arboriculture.
‘Elvaston may truly be said to be a place of every day enjoyment, the year round. Flora and Sylva,
one or both, may’ here be found at all seasons.
The Gardens of England cannot be surpassed in their seasons of beauty, though few, or none, can
be said to be enjoyable for more than six or seven months in the year; but Elvaston is so entirely a
winter or evergreen garden that a Baronet, well-known in fashionable circles, when speaking of it and
quoting Shakspeare, said, November, “the winter of our discontent, is here made glorious summer.”
Having passed into these gardens, wherever the eye turns a most enchanting scene presents itself.
Clipped yews representing columns, pedestals, minarets, &c., interspersed with marble statuary in subjects
too various to particularize, surprise and delight the visitor. After walking some distance along the
drive, or carriage road, we come to a very extraordinary Arbour, surmounted by singular decorations
representing birds of Paradise. The remarkable symmetry and beauty of this Arbour will excite the
wonder of the beholder, but how will that wonder be increased when he is informed that the object
before him is one tree, the stem of which runs up the centre, and inehe was brought a distance of
twenty-five miles, twenty years ago. It is upwards of 100 years since it was planted in the garden
from whence it was removed, and it is fourteen feet square and eighteen feet high.*
The Garden of “Mon Plaisir” is immediately under the south front of the Castle, whence its
general effect and singular design are seen to great advantage. It is inclosed on two sides by
yew hedges, in the form of walls, the sides being quite perpendicular and the tops cut off square.
The central portion is a covered walk. This walk is eight feet wide, and the entrance through the
yew is nine feet high to the centre of the arch. The American Arbor Vite is planted on each side
of it and completely envelopes the walk, excluding the sun’s rays and rendering it a cool retreat. From
loop-holes, or representations of windows, the singular and rich appearance of this garden may be viewed.
In the centre of Mon Plaisir there is a fine specimen of the auracaria imbricata planted, itself a note-
worthy object, and which has grown at the extraordinary rate of twenty and a_ half inches annually
(see Plate).
On the terrace next the Castle there stands in the centre a sun-dial of singular workmanship.
There are four of these terraces, and they are thirty feet wide. On the raised terraces, right and
left, are planted, alternately, Irish and gold yews. In front are gold yews trimmed into columns,
with crowns. On a second terrace above this, on the north side, in the centre stands a columnar
yew, with a crown; this yew has a trimmed base of thirty-nine feet, and three feet high, Right and
left are two pillar yews upwards of forty feet high, and several others of large dimensions. All
these have been brought a distance of upwards of thirty miles. Turning to the left we come to
the Italian garden, with its covered walk of roses, flowering creepers, statuary, and _ busts, relieved
by cut evergreens; from the summer-house this garden has a singular appearance. After taking a
number of turns, and wandering on admiring the contrast of colour and harmony produced, we come to
the Alhambra garden. Passing a Moorish building, we descend a flight of steps (see Plate). Again,
forward, through a labyrinth of Portugal laurel and yew hedges, we come to the Magnolia Garden, with
its sweet-briar hedges, and passing a remarkable arbour, and groves and avenues, we come to the great
avenue, beyond which, through a grove of cedars, the Lake comes into view. It is of considerable dimensions,
abounds with large rocky decorations, rugged islands covered with weeping hollies, junipers, auracaria
imbricata, &c. From this point the view is very extensive. Turning to the left, you enter the Fountain
garden, where various jets emit their playful streams of crystal, contrasting beautifully with the massive
rockery in the background, and the curious shell-grotto. A beautiful view of Spondon Church is
obtained through an oval fissure in the rocks, the lake lying in the foreground. Pursuing our way
forward, under rock and high yew hedges, we arrive at an arch. Looking through this, new scenery
presents itself, the lake displaying an extensive range of islands. At length we arrive at the narrow
part of the lake, which is crossed by a bridge, beyond which we pass into an extensive plantation,
and, turning to the right, we come again to the lake.
* See Mr Barron’s ‘ British Winter Garden.’
It is stated that in the plantation there are some yews 600—nay, even 800 years old,—
which have been successfully removed many miles, upon Mr Barron's system. The lake, with its
towering rocky projections and Alpine decorations, is entirely a work of art, and was commenced in the
year 1839. Many thousands of tons of stone have been employed in the formation of the rock-work ;
and many of the large yews and cedars of Lebanon were transplanted and removed distances varying
from four to forty miles. Instead of a few choice trees and plants scattered here and there, without
form or contrast, these gardens are literally ornamented with acres of them. It was known to be the
favourite delight of the late Lord Harrington to render them as perfect as possible, according to his
peculiar taste. Ninety men were for many years employed in these gardens, and no cost or labour
was deemed too great to obtain an extraordinary plant or tree. The kept-gardens comprise 134 acres,
exclusive of the outer plantations. The approach from the lower gates to the Castle consists of a
drive of a mile and a half in length. Before entering the gardens, and at the end of the park,
there are a second set of magnificent gates, which were those of Versailles before the great French
Revolution. At each extremity are fine marble statues. One represents Jason and the Golden Fleece,
the other Hercules and the Nemzan Lion. The Queen’s gate, in Hyde Park, has been modelled from
these gates, and forms a fine entrance to the property of the Earl of Harrington, now in course of
erection there.
To Mr Barron, and his excellent and skilful management, the wonderful effects of this garden are
due. No one can view them without feeling how successful he has been, while every reflecting
person will come to the conclusion that, on the system adopted at LElvaston, there is no limit to the
variety and grandeur of horticultural display.
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SHRUBLAND,
SUFFOLK,
THE SEAT OF SIR WILLIAM FOWLE FOWLE MIDDLETON, BARONET.
SHRUBLAND, in the hundred of Bosmere and Claydon, in early records is written ‘Secrobeland.” The
first individual of this name that occurs is Robert de Shrubeland, as witness to a deed (without date) of
Hugh de Reckingale, when he first granted the manor of Veysey’s to the Prior and Convent of Royston.
In the 2nd of King Edward III, John de Shrubeland was owner of these lands. It is supposed he
was one of the sons of Godmanston, and became possessed either by purchase or marriage, and if so,
according to the practice of the times, discarded his paternal name, and assumed the local one of his
residence. It was, however, but of short duration, the male line having failed in William, his son. The
Estate passed to William at Oake by his marriage with the heir general of the above William de
Shrubeland ; and it continued in his descendants for four generations, when Catherine, daughter and_ heir
general of Philip Oake, by marriage with Thomas Bothe, brought it into that family, where it continued
no longer than it did in the Shrubland family, for it ended in Sir Philip Bothe, his son, “who left an
only daughter and heiress, Audey, who married Sir Robert Lytton, of Knebworth,* in Hertfordshire,
K.B., and had three daughters only. Elizabeth, the second daughter, married to Thomas Little, of Bray,
in Berkshire, Esq., by whom he had issue, an only daughter, and heir; Helen married Edward Bacon,
Esq., third son of Sir Nicholas Bacon, Knight, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England to Queen
Elizabeth, and brought it into that branch of the Bacon family. This Estate was purchased soon after
the decease of the Rev. Nicholas Bacon, M.A., by William Middleton, of Crowfield, Esq.; who was
created Baronet in 1804, and assumed by Sign-manual in 1822, the surname of Fowle, in addition to
and before that of Middleton. Sir William was a native of South Carolina, and eldest son of William,
son of Arthur Middleton, Esq., Governor of that Colony.”
In 1782 he served the office of High Sheriff of the County, and was in 1784 M.P. for Ipswich,
and in 1806 he was returned to Parliament as a Baron, for the Cinque Port of Hastings. In 1829, Sir
William Fowle Fowle Middleton, his only son, and the present owner of Shrubland, succeeded his father;
and in 1830 he commenced the improvements; and since that time Sir William has devoted
much time, money, and thought upon the house and grounds of the now far-famed Shrubland. The
house was one of those square blocks of building which were at one time very numerous, but it now
wears a very different aspect, having been remodelled by Sir C. Barry, who has carried out the wishes of
Sir William—which were to make it a perfect Italian villa—and travellers say he has succeeded. In
* Knebworth: the seat of the present Sir KE. Bulwer Lyttén.
accordance with tle style adopted, the parterres in the Italian gardens are of fanciful outline, set in
stone borders, and filled with masses of flowers, presenting a variety of the most brilliant colours. The
designs for the gardens and parterres, and the main features of the mansion have been laid down by Sir
William and Lady Middleton—a residence for a considerable time in Italy having imbued them with the
spirit of the great masters there, and they have thus been able to carry out at Shrublands the purest
designs of the Italian school; but we cannot harmonise our climate and scenery, with the picturesquely-
attired people of the South of Europe; nevertheless, Sir William has been wonderfully successful, and,
without doubt, has formed a very perfect specimen of Italian gardening; and when we consider the
great superiority of English gardens, as regards floral embellishments and other advantages, Shrubland
must far out-vie the best gardens of Italy, thongh she must yield to the glorious climate of the classic-
land, and her groves of Orange, Myrtle, and Bay.
The mansion itself stands on an eminence, rising abruptly from the general elevation of the park, and
commanding an extensive prospect. The most perfect taste has been displayed in disposing to the
best advantage this peculiar configuration of ground. The brow of the eminence, lying immediately in
front of the mansion, forms the upper gardens; and from Brownlow terrace, with the magnificent Spanish
chesnut trees,* the ground shelves rapidly to the West, and forms naturally a steep woody bank, with
innumerable walks. The coup d’@il from the steps leading from the upper, which overlooks the lower garden,
has few equals in any country, It commands the panel garden, eighty feet below, with its fountains, statues,
and parterres,—at the further side, in the foreground, the exquisite loggia, or open temple, and beyond, a
wide stretch of country appropriately bounding the whole. It is so admirably arranged that both can be
seen from the baleony in front of the house; a more brilliant and striking spectacle than the domain
of Shrublands presents, especially as seen from the Pavilion, crowning the summit of the grand flight of
steps, can scarcely be imagined. The fine mansion with its temples and terraces, the glittering fountains,
the exquisite Italian and Moorish gardens, bedecked with innumerable flowers and ornamented with
sculpture, and the far-spreading landscape beyond, altogether form a scene such as none can either
properly describe or easily forget._(See Plate.)
The principal feature in the design of the balcony garden is a group of four large beds on each
side the centre walk. These have raised stone borders, wide and massive; next a band of turf; and
between the turf and box edging, inside, a band of white sand. This gives a high architectural finish to
the garden, and is, besides, quite in keeping with the walls, balustrading, vases, and other architectural
accessories which surround it.
The great object in this garden is to have large masses of colours ; hence it is Imperative that the
beds should be large, to produce a grand effect, and rich warm colours are only employed for the like
purpose—four of these beds are scarlet, two purple, and two blue. The scarlet beds are planted in this
way :—In the centre, Shrubland Scarlet Geraniums; next, a band of Punch Geraniums; then a band of
Mangles’ Variegated, followed by Tom Thumb; the edging to finish being a band of “ Harkaway,” a
very dwarf scarlet Geranium. When in full bloom, nothing can exceed the richness of these groups, as
regards arrangement of colour.
The two purple beds have for centres a mass of “ Prince’s Feather;” surrounding this, “ Love-lies-
bleeding ;” next, Geranium Purple Unique; followed by a band of Golden Chain, and finished off by
an edging of the Baron Hugel or Princess Royal Geranium, with a well-defined horse-shoe leaf, from
which the flowers are taken off, that they may not interfere with the colour of the bed.
The two blue beds are planted with a centre of Salvia patens, mixed with the Blue Chinese Delphinium
(Larkspur); next a band of the African Lilly (Agapanthus); then a band of Lobelia racemosoides ; next
Golden-chain Geranium, finishing with an edging of Baron Hugel, for the purple beds, the scarlet
flowers also taken off.
Two long square turf plots flank each side of these beds, forming altogether a balcony garden. These
have a tracery pattern in white sand with stone tripods, and in the centre a fine plant of Libocedrus
chilensis, planted by H.R.H. Prince Albert, during his visit to Sir William and Lady Middleton in 1851.
The eight beds described above are connected by a stone pattern and three circular beds. The
centre one is planted with Hydrangeas, and the one on each side with Yuccas. There are stone boxes
planted with Humeas, and the same on each side the centre walk, planted with Portugal Laurel, in
imitation of Orange trees, for which they are excellent substitutes. The borders under the retaining
wall at the top nearest the house, which supports the terrace walk, is planted with Hollyhocks in lines
fronted with Lady Middleton Geraniums, a rosy coloured scarlet raised here, and very valuable for
bedding purposes.
* Sixty-six feet high. diameter of the trunk 11 feet 4 inches, and the head 66 feet—Loudan, page 2,001,
On leaving the baleony garden, and descending by the steps to the panel garden (a lower terrace),
the view is very striking, with the loggia directly in front, in the boundary line within which is a
large open space, filled with beds, vases, and _ statues. Towards the bottom the steps branch
off right and left, forming a circular sweep, the area of which is filled with a fountain in a large stone
basin, with a circular walk leading from the steps round it. A wide central walk starts from this
direct to the loggia, and four grass terraces diverge to the right and left, having the fountain
as a common centre. Passing through the loggia, a deep dell separates the highly-dressed grounds from
those beyond. This part has only very recently been added; in admirable contrast to the excess of
art lavished upon this spot, is the garden containing a rustic bridge, thrown over a chasm, where a wild
luxuriance prevails, as if nature had been partly left to her own dictates, and crossing the dell by the
bridge, we find ourselves among great masses of shrubs (selected chiefly for their foliage), herbaceous and
common wild plants—everything, in fact, which conveys the idea of wild and natural scenery. Looking
from the upper pavilion—or, indeed, any part of the higher grounds—these masses of shrubs are completely
under the eye, and it was important that they should, by contrast, set off the floral embellishment
within the boundary, as well as form a back ground for the panel gardens and other part of the grounds
on a line with them; and, we doubt not, as they grow up, they will produce the desired effect.
The lower gardens extend, perhaps, a mile in Jength, and the two are connected by a magnificent
flight of 137 stone steps. The upper gardens and the central lower garden are laid out to correspond,
the whole forming a fine example of the Italian style. A stone balustrade, adorned with vases, traverses
the entire circuit of this portion of the grounds, uniting with the terrace part of the house’ at each
end, and terminating in an open temple of exquisite proportions at the opposite side of the lower garden;
it gives completeness to a design, which, for beauty and elegance, stands unrivalled.
Another part where we lingered, with fond delight, was the broad grassy terrace, skirting the ground
lymg between the Italian gardens and the Swiss cottage. This green walk is nearly a mile in length,
and terminates at one end with a flight of steps and balustrade to a platform from which diverge walks and
drives into the woods. From this eminence there is a vista, its entire length, passing through the lower
ground, and ending near the Swiss cottage at the other extremity of the grounds. This drive is margined
by parallel beds of Savin, Irish Yews, Arbor-vite, vases raised from the ground, filled with choice
Geraniums, &c. To the right of the panel garden is the French garden, enclosed within a Laurel wall, in
which, set m niches cut out of the wall, are a number of marble busts, four feet high. This garden is
laid down on gravel with Box edgings, and is planted with dwarf flowering plants, as Lobelias, Brachycomes,
Cupheas, Golden-chain Geraniums.—(See Title Page.)
Proceeding southward from the panel garden by the long walk, we reach the fountain garden, which lies
to the right.—(See Title Page.) This is nearly circular in shape, and has a fountain in its centre, from which four
walks radiate, throwing the garden into four divisions. There are, besides, a boundary wall and a conservatory
wall, taking the sweep of the garden to the west. This wall is built hollow, and is heated by hot-
water pipes; the west side is covered with greenhouse and half-hardy climbing plants, which have the
protection of glass during winter; the plants grow with great luxuriance, and bloom profusely in the summer
months, when the glass is removed. On the garden side plants of a more hardy nature, including Roses,
&e., are planted; and the border at the base contains many interesting half-hardy plants.
The four divisions of the fountain garden are each planted in six colours, with white to begin
and finish with. Each division has its separate plants, but the height of each is the same,
Commencing with the centre it is white, which is continued all round through the four divisions; next
purple, yellow, scarlet, blue, pink; and lastly, white again, at the outside. This arrangement takes up a
vast number and variety of plants, as the height and habit have to be studied, as well as the colour of
each; but the arrangement, when well done, is unique and very pleasing.
Beyond the fountain garden are some beds on gravel, with raised stone edgings, and planted with
mixed colours; amongst other, the shot-silk bed is very conspicuous; its composition—variegated-leaved
Geraniums, mixed with Verbena venossa, or any light-purple variety—is now well known.
Below these beds is the Rosery, which contains a very choice collection of summer Roses. The
climbing varieties are trained to a fancy iron trellis, which forms bowers over the walks. A circular bed
in the centre is in the form of the heraldic York and Lancaster Rose, with red and white Roses and a
yellow centre bed; little lower down is the Rustic seat. .
Towards the southern extremity of the grounds is an exceedingly characteristic Swiss cottage, with
the accompaniments faithfully carried out. It contains a museum of curiosities collected by Sir William
Middleton, and among others, some interesting relics of Napoleon the First, the Duke of Wellington,
Lord Nelson, &c. Sir William has lately finished a large garden for Ferns, and a very beautiful addition
it is. This makes the entire extent of the gardens, at the present time, one hundred acres, kept in th
highest condition. All the designs for the beds and flowers are by Lady Middleton.
At a short distance from the Swiss cottage is the Verbena garden, in which are planted those kinds
not used in other arrangements. Beside this garden is the Box terrace, forming a beautiful scroll pattern laid
down on a smooth surface of fine sand of a reddish tint, completely in the parterre style of the French.
The interior is planted with very dwarf flowers—as Silene Schafti, dwarf French Marygold, Lobelia
ramosa, &c.
The whole of the retaining and dividing wall is surmounted with a stone balustrading, in the same style
as the mansion, pavilion, and loggia, all of which are from the designs of Sir C. Barry. . Hence
there is a harmony between the several parts rarely met with, which does credit to the admirable
taste and judgment of Sir William Middleton. In addition to the Italian features of the entire place,
a great number of busts, vases, and statues are disposed throughout the grounds in appropriate positions.
These greatly assist in forming the peculiar tone of Italian scenery so characteristic of Shrubland.
Mr Foggo, the present head-gardener, informs us that 80,000 plants of Geraniums, Verbenas
Petunias, Lobelias, &c., &c., are annually required for turning out into the numerous beds, borders,
vases, &c., and this independently of annuals, &c., raised from seed, which are likewise worked into the
general arrangement. To procure annually such a large number of plants, and to arrange
each to the several compartments for flowering, requires a large amount of care and forethought. Both
Sir William and Lady Middleton are deeply interested in all that is going on, and provide liberal
help to keep the whole in the highest order of neatness; and to maintain so large and brilliant a
display of bloom throughout the season, large reserves are always ready to fill up vacancies and
preserve uninterrupted the display.
Mr Foggo is very successful in meeting the requirements of so large an undertaking, and
maintains the high character Shrubland has enjoyed for many years as one of the best kept gardens
in the country.
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WOBURN ABBEY.
THE SEAT OF HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF BEDFORD.
Wirnin a short time after the Norman conquest, the greater part of Saxon England was conferred
by the Conqueror on his followers and their descendants. Previous to that event, it had been divided
into districts called Shires, and governed by persons deputed by the Crown, denominated Ealdormen, or
Shiremen. On the acquisition of these shires by the Normans, they, from political motives, endeavoured
to root out the remembrance of the familiar title by investing with the jurisdiction of the fief that of
Count, which they considered equal to, if not surpassing in honour, the Saxon Ealdorman, or Earl. But,
singularly enough, the alien word soon gave place to the original derivation; and it is chiefly in the
term “county” that we now recognise its application or existence in England, while the peerage of the
country prove the hereditary privileges and influence of the Saxon rank.
If we were to examine the history of every county, city, or town of England, we should scarcely find one
but what has, at some time or other, been represented by a title of nobility. In many cases it has
become extinct, and seldom, at the present time, is it enjoyed by the direct descendants of those on
whom it was first conferred.
Bedford, for instance, presents a curious example of this kind—Ingram de Courcy, Constable of France,
was created Earl of Bedford’ by Edward III, in 1363. John Plantagenet, third son of Henry IV, was
created Duke of Bedford, and was afterwards Regent of France. George Plantagenet, youngest son of
Edward IV, who died in his infancy, had the title of Duke of Bedford. George Neville was created
Duke of Bedford in 1470, and degraded in 1478. Jasper Tudor (uncle to Henry VII) was created
Duke of Bedford in 1483; the title then became extinct. The Lady Mary, daughter of Henry VIII
(afterwards Queen of England), was created Countess of Bedford, by her father, in 1537. In 1549, the
Earldom was revived in the person of John, Lord Russell, whose descendant was in 1694 advanced to
the Dukedom; in this family it still remains. In many cases the chief residence of these nobles was in
the principal city, or town from whence their titles were derived, and in which they enjoyed and exacted
the privileges of their order. During the internal commotions, which in past ages so often shook the
kingdom to its centre, these feudal strongholds, from various causes, often changed owners, and in many
instances became, from the effects of war or neglect, in too ruinous a condition to be habitable. Of the
old Castle at Bedford little now remains but its site “to point a moral or adorn a tale.”
At the Reformation, the beautiful and imposing edifices, and the magnificent estates of LEcclesiastical
dignitaries were seized by the Crown, and the greater portion granted to those who stood high in royal
favour, or had distinguished themselves in the service of their country, and who, in turn, sold or otherwise
disposed of them as they thought fit. And so quickly did this dissolution extend, and so earnestly
did its spirit work, that in a very short time the very walls,—within which for so many centuries had
reigned the solemn assurance of monastic rule, in all its important ceremonies and ascetic forms, its
consecrated mirth and hospitable indulgencies,—in many imstances became as ruinous and broken as the
power that raised them. The site of these buildings was generally granted with the manor or manors
attached to them, and in the year 1547 the monastery and revenues of Woburn were granted by Edward
VI to John, Lord Russell, afterwards created Earl of Bedford by the same Prince. This nobleman
was also a great favourite of Henry the VIII, and his rapid rise was due to his merit and general
accomplishments. He died in 1555, and was buried at Chenies, in Buckinghamshire, with his Lady,
by whom he had acquired that estate. He was the founder of the family possessions in this part of the
country ; and, although the church property granted to them was immense, their estates have been
considerably increased by purchase, particularly by John, fourth Duke of Bedford. The family have
always been distinguished by a liberal spirit and enlightened views, and many are honourably connected
with the historical events of their country. Francis, the second earl, will always be remembered for
his enterprising and successful attempt in draining a large fenny district in Cambridgeshire, known as
the great level.
Woburn Abbey was founded in the year 1145, by Hugh de Bolebec, for Monks of the Cistercian
order. The first Abbot was Alan, transferred from the Monastery of St Mary’s, at York. In 1234
it had become so poor that for a time it was found necessary to break it up; but on being re-endowed,
it obtained many privileges, and continued flourishing under various auspices till the Dissolution, when its
yearly value was £391 18s. 2d. Singular enough, the last Abbot, Robert Hobbs, was hung in front
of the Monastery for denying the King’s supremacy.
Woburn Abbey was almost wholly rebuilt by Flicroft, for John, Duke of Bedford, about the
middle of the last century. It is a magnificent structure, presenting four sides of a quadrangle.
The great stables mentioned by Pennant as having formed part of the cloisters of the old Abbey were
pulled down by the late Duke, and a suite of rooms now occupy their site. The present stables
form wings of a handsome building, in the centre of which are the Tennis-court, 108 feet in length,
and the Riding-house, which, including a gallery at one end for spectators, is 130 feet long. A
colonnade a quarter of a mile in length connects these and other buildings with the entrance to her
Grace’s private garden. © The Picture Gallery contains a large and valuable collection of paintings,
including many portraits of the illustrious house of Russell, and those allied to it by marriage; and the
Sculpture Gallery possesses numerous rare and splendid specimens of statuary, vases, and other works
of art by the best masters.
The Terrace Garden was formed in 1852. It is separated from her Grace’s Garden by a
border of Rhododendrons, and an iron railing with a gate, highly ornamented, and gilt at the entrance.
When this is thrown open a promenade of stone pavement 235 feet long extends down the south part
of the Abbey. The Terrace Garden is oblong in shape, and divided into several compartments by
straight walks that branch imto the main one leading to the Sculpture Gallery, Camellia-house, Heathery,
and other parts of the grounds. It is fenced on the western and southern sides by a handsome gilt
iron railing of a diamond pattern, placed on a stone plinth level with the ground, and sustained at
intervals of 30 feet by pieces of Portland stone the same height as the railing. Along the middle
walk of the garden, two lines of standard Portugal Laurel are planted, which form an avenue, and
when viewed from a distance have the appearance of Orange trees. In the centre of this avenue is
placed a large Dutch sun-dial, elevated upon a granite pedestal, and opposite to it are two semicircular
raised flower-beds, designed by the late Lady Caroline Sandford. These beds are well adapted to
display effectively the brilliant blossoms of the Flower of the Day Geranium, and varieties of Verbena
with which they are planted. A group of the Fighting Cupids, in white marble upon a granite
pedestal, rises at the extremity of the middle walk. The centre of this garden is again crossed by a
walk 11 feet wide, on which are placed two ornamental bronze fountains with octagon basins, to supply
this part of the garden with water. These fountains are from the Versailles collection, and form in
their present situation a pleasing contrast to a range of white marble and Bath stone vases, and a
variety of shrubs that adorn this spot. Along the walk nearest to the Abbey, four very fine marble
vases are arranged in line, which originally decorated the Gardens of the Empress Josephine, at
Malmaison. Near to these, on the grass, are two unique groups of bronze figures, surmounted by
marble basins on carved pedestals, displaying the laurel and the rose. In the summer these basins
are filled with Salvia patens, Petunias, Fuchsias, and other gay flowers, forming a mass of bright
colour, and an agreeable contrast to each other when in bloom. The margins of the walks are
decorated with Hydrangeas, Junipers, Taxus, Acuba japonica, &c., all planted in tubs. The sides of
the main walk leading from the Terrace Garden towards the Sculpture Gallery are ornamented also with
vases of Bath stone and white marble, the former, being filled with scarlet Geranium, have a very gay
and graceful appearance during the Autumn months.
The Parterre is in front of the Sculpture Gallery, and forms a very interesting feature of this part
of the Pleasure Grounds. The variety of form and character of the small beds are generally much
admired, being well adapted to render the diversity and colour of the flowering plants, with which they
are kept continually furnished during the summer and autumn months, very striking and effective. The
plants selected for these beds consist of the best varieties of Verbena, Lobelia, Calceolaria, Geranium, and
other gay flowering kinds; the most conspicuous being the Flower of the Day and Mountain of Light
Geraniums, with Verbena venosa, whose brilliant purple colours form a pleasing contrast. All these
beds and narrow borders have edgines of box, some of which were planted 50 years ago, and still
appear in a perfect state of preservation. The intervening walks are covered with a blue gravel,
brought from Staffordshire, which give them a neat and novel appearance. Here are also, on granite
pedestals, groups of the Fighting and Dying Gladiators, by Westmacott, and Silvenus nursing the infant
Bacchus, in bronze, on a circular Portland-stone pedestal. The Parterres are terminated at each end
by an ornamented balustrade, on which are placed antique vases. Opposite to these small Parterres, a
series of circular flower-beds follow, surrounded by Serpentine Walks, designed by her Grace the late
Duchess of Bedford. They are well suited for variety of colour. These borders are separated from
a triangular piece of grass by a strong iron basket edging about 12 inches high, on which also border
a series of larger flower-beds that form a semicircle to this part, and are bounded by a walk ornamented
with vases of various designs placed along the margin; and on the triangular plots of grass two white
marble vases, brought from the Empress Josephine’s Gardens, are conspicuous. An avenue of Irish
Yew runs along the edges of the straight walk leading from the centre of the Sculpture Gallery
towards the Grass Garden, terminated by a large vase, by Kent, and a stone seat surmounted by an
open balustrade.
The other parts of the Garden display equal care, and a great amount of artistic skill and elegance.
A remarkably fine and extensive Pinetum, planted many years ago, contributes to the celebrity of Woburn,
which also enjoys a high reputation for its collection of Willows. There are some excellent fruit
houses and conservatories, containing rare specimens of the choicest plants and fruits; and in the
general arrangement and management of the various branches, ingenuity, energy, and good taste combine
to produce the most successful and gratifying results.
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WORSLEY HALL,
LANCASHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON, THE EARL OF ELLESMERE,
WorsLey is a township in the parish of Eccles, and the Hall occupies a commanding position,
about seven miles from Manchester and two miles from Paticroft, on the Manchester and Liverpool line
of railway. The building is quite modern, dating from the year 1846. It is built of Hollington stone,
in the medieval style of architecture, from designs by Mr Blore, and presents a noble and highly
interesting appearance. The old manorial residence, standing at the northern extremity of the gardens,
is a picturesque building of the Elizabethan period, intimately connected with many historical reminiscences,
and formerly containing the curious and rare collection of oak carving from Hulme Hall, Manchester,
now deposited, by the late Earl of Ellesmere, in the new mansion adjoining. Two other ancient
residences close at hand, Kempnall and Wardley Halls, the latter an old half-timbered relic of the reign
of Edward VI, invest the locality with an interest of more than common order.
The view from Worsley ‘“‘new” Hall, as it is called to distinguish it from the other, across the
gardens to the southward, is remarkably fine, ranging to the centre of Cheshire, the towering peak of
the solitary Wrekin, and the far-distant elevations of two counties in North Wales. Eastward the view
extends to the high and wave-like hills of Derbyshire; and that to the north sweeps onwards to
the blue outlines of the Westmoreland mountains. In fact, nine counties are visible to the naked eye
from this commanding situation in clear weather.
All this, to the lover of nature, is beautiful and imposing, and, while gazing upon it, he might easily
be led to forget for the moment that within a short distance millions of human beings, and an array
of machinery of almost fabulous extent and power, are toiling unceasingly on to maintain unimpaired the
commercial relations of England with the whole civilized world. But so it is, and in striking contrast to
the wonderful results produced by a unity of wealth and enterprise, the noble Bridgewater canal, with its fifty
miles of lock-less navigation, connecting Manchester with so many important districts, runs at the foot
of the hill before the Hall, a memorial of the comprehensive judgment, undaunted energy, and resources
of the one nobleman who bore that name, and the felicitous and ardent skill of the engineer Brindley.*
In the village, opposite the principal entrance to this fine establishment, stands the handsome
church of St Mark’s, erected and endowed by the late Earl of Ellesmere in 1845, at a cost of £14,000.
Numerous schools, and other charitable institutions on the estate, testify to the munificence and piety of
their noble founder.
* Brindley died in the year 1772, and was buried in the churchyard at Newchapel, Staffordshire.
The gardens occupy principally the south front of the mansion, and present a succession of
picturesque terraces, to the number of six. The upper one is the most extensive, and at each end is
a fine scroll-flower by Nesfield, the centre being occupied by a large urn in stucco. The second
terrace is divided from the first by a stone balustrade trained with creepers, which, from the windows
on the ground-floor of the house, conceals a new parterre laid out in the geometrical style, from an old
French design, but which detraction to the more effective character of the work will probably be shortly
removed. In the centre of this terrace stands a handsome bronze fountain, of foreign manufacture,
from the Exhibition of 1851, flanked by long Hower-beds and large lofty vases filled with the richest
flowers. |
The succeeding terraces, from the rather abrupt nature of the ground, quickly follow each other, and
present that’ diversified and beautiful effect which a degree of taste and the knowledge of harmony in
‘floral architecture is sure to produce. Our [Illustration is a representation of the fifth terrace, which,
from the elegance and beauty of its arrangement, is so generally and deservedly admired. The noble
fountain, which proceeds from the terrace still lower, bordered by some pretty lakes, is supplied, as are
all the others, from several immense reservoirs or dams, erected by the late Duke of Bridgewater, at a
place four miles distant, as a reserve for the canal; and it was from the same source that those
voluminous streams of water were drawn by which the recent fire at Worsley Hall was so successfully
overcome. |
On the lawn facing the Hall is a very good specimen of the Wellingtonia gigantia, planted by Her
Most Gracious Majesty when visitng Worsley during the Manchester Exhibition of 1857. There is
also, near to it, a thriving English oak, planted at the same time by Her Royal Highness the Princess
Frederick of Prussia. This part of the gardens contains a fine collection of thorns, with numerous beds
of rhododendrons, which thrive remarkably well, and other hardy shrubs in different stages of growth.
A walk through a grove of ancient trees, their sombre shades relieved by groups of holly, Portugal
laurel, evergreens, oak, laurustinus, and others, leads from this part of the grounds to the kitchen garden,
which has lately been, and is still, undergoing considerable improvements. The situation is unfortunately
low, with a heavy subsoil, consequently the difficulty in obtaining such excellent crops of fruit and other
luxuries as are annually produced is all the greater. These gardens are about sixteen acres in extent,
and contain the usual vineries, pine pits, melon. grounds, &c., with several walls trained with hardy fruit
trees. One of the most useful and really good inventions for the protection of wall fruit, the Trentham
wall-case, has just been erected here, and, independent of its great utility, adds considerably to the
appearance of the place. In conclusion we might, and with justice, add, that if what has so recently
been done is, as we doubt not, a criterion of what is to follow, these gardens, generally speaking,
cannot fail to become widely known as one of the most beautiful examples of the kind to be met with in
the country.
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CHESHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE MOST NOBLE THE MARQUIS OF WESTMINSTER.
CHESTER is the centre of a locality more impressed with the broad features of English history
than. any other probably in the island; and it also bears the most ancient traditional foundation of any
city in the world. A writer in the early part of the sixteenth century, Sir Thomas Elliott, imputes
its origin to Magus, a great-grandson of the patriarch Noah, who first colonised England, and built a
city here which he named Neomagus. Other authors attribute its rise to Leon Gawer, a British prince,
at some remote period; but however vague these relations, under the Romans it rose to the greatest
importance, and formed one of the principal stations of those noble pioneers upwards of four hundred
years. Although so many centuries have passed since they held rule, numerous traces of their occupation
remain, among others the foundations of the city walls; and almost every year brings to light some
interesting relic of their enterprise and skill. After their final evacuation of the island, Chester was,
for many centuries, the scene of almost constant war, being possessed alternately by Britons, Saxons,
and Danes. The most glorious part of its chequered and sanguinary history, up to the time of the
Norman Conquest, is that of the early part of the tenth century, when Ethelfleda, the daughter of King Alfred
the Great, and wife of Ethelred, Earl of Mercia, recovered the city by force of arms from the Danes,
rebuilt its walls, and restored it to something like its ancient importance. Long previous to this event,
however, about the year 663, the site of the present noble Cathedral was occupied by an Abbey, supposed
to have been erected and dedicated to St Peter and St Paul by Wulphere, King of Mercia, and of which,
it is said, his daughter, “the pious and blessed virgin, St Werburgh,” subsequently became Abbess.
Eaton is situated in the Broxton hundred, three miles from Chester, and before the Norman
Conquest was a township divided into two distinct manors, held by different Saxon proprietors, both of
whom, as in innumerable other instances, were ejected in favour of the more fortunate race. According
to the Saxon vill of Etone, mentioned in Domesday, one of these manors was the present hamlet of
Belgrave, but at what time it merged in that of Eaton is not clear. Ilbert, one of the minor Norman
grantees, received these estates ; and one adjoining, on the banks of the river Dee, belonging to Edwin
the Saxon Earl of Chester, was reserved at the same time by Hugh Lupus, who was created by his
uncle, William the Conqueror, the first Norman Earl of that distinguished city. This powerful nobleman
was a great favourite of the King, and invested by him with the supreme authority of the whole
county. He held his own parliaments, and was otherwise absolute sovereign of the small but important
territory. The title and privileges were enjoyed during a period of 160 years by six successors of the
same race, but on the death of Earl John Scott, in 1234, the earldom and all the powers annexed
thereto were claimed by the Crown, and from that time to the present have been invested in the heir
to the British throne. One of the followers of William I was Gilbert le Grosvenor (a name originally
written Grosveneur, and which, according to Camden, signifies the great hunter), who was nephew to
Hugh Lupus, and consequently related to the King, to whom was granted, among others, the manor of
Allostock, in Cheshire: from him descended the Grosvenors of Hulme and Eaton. And it is a singular
and interesting fact, that the Allostock property has been held successively by the descendants of that
nobleman to the present time.
After the death of Ilbert, the Eaton estate passed in succession to the Rullos, the Pichots, and the
Pulfords, which family eventually adopted the local name of Eaton, and by the marriage of Sir Ralph _
Grosvenor, of Hulme, with Joan de Eaton, the heiress of that race, the property passed finally to the
Grosvenors in the 22nd Henry VI. The value of this acquisition to the family possessions was
further increased by the emoluments arising from the Serjeancy of the river Dee, called in the
royal warrants, “Custos reparie aque de Dee,” which was confirmed to Sir Ralph Grosvenor by
Henry VI, and by other sovereigns to successive owners of the estate down to Sir Richard Grosvenor,
in 24th Henry VIII. They also had from the same date the exclusive privilege of demanding
a certain amount of toll on all passengers and merchandise that crossed the river by means of the ancient
ferry called ‘Eaton Boat,” at the adjoining village of Eccleston. The ferry still exists, but by the
erection, in 1824, of a magnificent iron bridge, consisting of a single arch of 150 span, higher up the
river, by the late Marquis of Westminster, the communication with the opposite shore is materially
improved to the diminished importance of the old ferry.
The original ancestral residence occupied the site of the present Hall, and, under the quaint designation
of Eaton Boat, was for many centuries considered a building of much importance. At the end of the
seventeenth century, a strong castellated brick mansion, from designs by Sir John Vanbrugh, was erected
in its stead. This occurred on the marriage of Sir Thomas Grosvenor with Miss Davies, the heiress
to the valuable estate in Westminster, now popularly known as Belgravia. In the year 1803 the Hall in
question was pulled down by the late Marquis of Westminster, and the erection of the present magnificent
structure commenced, which is undoubtedly one of the most highly-finished and beautifully decorated
secular buildings in England. It is essentially a Gothic fabric, composed of a light and fine description
of freestone, obtained from the Manley quarries; and the numerous pinnacles, niches, and projections that
characterise the external walls are strikingly rich in tracery and embossed carving. Porden and Burns
successively were the architects of this stupendous pile, which consists of a centre and two wings, crowned
with numerous turrets, and a complete range of embattled parapets; the whole being relieved by shields
charged with armorial bearings, and presenting a gorgeous fagade upwards of four hundred and fifty feet
in length. The eastern front is the most elaborate; and from its elegant portico our artist has delineated
the extensive and beautiful prospect that stretches before it.
The architectural embellishments of the interior of the Hall are of corresponding elegance, and the
numerous works of art that decorate the capacious and superbly-furnished apartments belong to the highest
and most beautiful order. | Many rare and interesting works in JS. constitute a portion of an extensive
and valuable collection of ancient and modern literature; and there is also, carefully preserved in the Library,
one of those very few remaining relics of Romano-British times, a Golden Torque.
Referring to the Plate: The abrupt towering rock in the far-distance is the terminal point of the
Peckforton and Broxton hills, on which stand, in frowning relief, the ruins of Beeston Castle, erected by
Randle Blundeville, the sixth Earl of Chester, in the year 1220. It was anciently a strongly fortified,
important place, but its eventful history was brought to a close by Prince Rupert during the great civil
war. A short distance from the ruins is Peckforton, the noble castellated residence of — Tollemache, Esq.,
M.P. The intervening vale of Cheshire, which doubtless, at some remote period, formed an inland bay,
is celebrated for its excellent pasturage, and it is likely enough that here the Romans first taught the
British the art of cheese-making, which was unknown in the island before their arrival. The beautiful
garden immediately before us is divided into three successive terraces, the two principal ones being in
the Italian style, and laid down, in the year 1852, from designs by Mr Nesfield. The upper terrace
combines two large departments, intersected by broad gravel walks, and embellished with vases and
statuary. The box-edged, elegantly scrolled flower-beds are planted with verbenas, calceorarias, geraniums,
and various other sorts of a gay-flowering character, whose rich tints harmonize so well with the
general features of the place. Lines of Irish yew, and others of the same order, with box-trees cut in
a spherical form, are interspersed at regular intervals, the whole being surrounded by a stone balustrade, thickly
studded with shields, bearing the numerous heraldic devices of the family. The most conspicuous objects
are two large characteristic statues of the “Great Hunter,” one of which represents him in the prime of
life, mounted on a noble and spirited horse, proceeding with three large deer-hounds to the chase; the
other is the Death of the Stag. These bold and masterly efforts of the sculptor’s art are from the
studio of C. Raymond Smith (1852). The figures are cut from solid blocks of a fine description of
freestone, and stand on oblong pedestals of deep red sandstone, three sides of which bear portions of
this inscription—“ DE AQUILA; LE GROS VENEUR. ANNO DNI., MLXVI.” The next terrace
is laid out and planted in a somewhat similar manner to the one above; and directly below it the
ground falls off in a gentle slope to a large serpentine piece of water, artificially connected with the
river Dee—a stream held sacred’ by both Britons and Romans. At the time of the excavation of this
lake portions of a Roman road, which probably connected Chester with other important stations, were laid bare ;
the foundations whereof consisted of large stones supported by strong piles driven deep into the ground
and filled in with gravel. The road previously passed through the picturesque village of Eccleston,
about a mile from Eaton, and the ford, which at the latter place connected it with the opposite shore,
was commanded by a strongly fortified position at Aldford—traces of which still remain. The broad
central walk that runs from the elegant portico of the Hall to the steps leading down to the water is
bordered by lines of vases and ornamental trees; and the walk crossing it at right angles directly below
the second terrace, is nearly a quarter of a mile in length, diversified by some excellent specimens of
Pines, and works of art; and terminated at the northern end by a conservatory, and at the other by a
small temple. This temple contains an object of special interest connected with times anterior to the
introduction of Christianity to the inhabitants of this country, consisting of an altar dedicated to the
«‘ Nymphs and Fountains” by the soldiers of the far-famed Twentieth Legion, who, with other Roman
warriors, made Chester their city and their camp for a space of four hundred years, as before alluded
to. It was dug up at Great Baughton, a township of Chester, in the year 1821, and is in a most
excellent state of preservation. It stands about three feet high, and the red sandstone of which it is com-
posed bears this inscription in very intelligible characters—‘NYMPHIS ET FONTIBVS LEG. XX, V. V.
The Conservatory, erected in the year 1852, at a cost of nearly £5,000, is a light, handsome, well-
finished structure, composed of cast-iron, with copper sashes, and glass reaching to the base. The
flooring and shelves are of stone, and it is heated by pipes running beneath the surface. The collection
of plants is an excellent and well-assorted one, and arranged with much effect.
The south front of the Hall looks upon the ‘ Dragon Fountain Garden,” a retired and attractive
spot, made doubly interesting by the introduction of statues of the most renowned of the Grosvenor family.
These statues are four in number, placed on pedestals of red sandstone, and wrought from solid blocks
of stone by the masterly chisel of Westmacott. JOAN OF EATON, as the inscription runs, commonly
called the Heiress of Eaton, in the characteristic dress of the period, faces SIR ROBERT GROSVENOR,
who is represented in plate armour, with shirt of mail, and armed with a light description of battle-axe.
This Sir Robert was defendant in the famous suit brought forward by Sir Richard Scroope, respecting the
original right to the coat of arms (Azure, one bend, or.) used by these noble families, and which
occupied the attention of the Marshal of England three years, in the time of Richard II.* Extracts
from an account of this remarkable “suit of arms” in the Tabley MSS., is given in Ormerod’s « History
of Cheshire;’ to which valuable work we are indebted for many interesting particulars contained in this
paper. ~« The other statues are those of ENGENULPH DE AQUILA, in massive chain armour; and
ODO EPISC. DE BAYEUX, in ecclesiastical habiliments, the celebrated Bishop, who was uncle to the
Conqueror, and appointed by him one of the Regents of the English nation on his return to Normandy,
after the battle of Hastings. The Fountain—a dragon—occupies the centre of the garden, which, divided
from the park by a wall, is of an oblong shape, prettily laid out, and planted with roses, geraniums,
calceolarias, verbenas, &c., and will, in the course of a few years, when the numerous ornamental shrubs
and trees have attained greater size, be a most beautiful and delightful retreat. From the west front
extends for a distance of two miles a very fine avenue of oak and elm trees, terminated by the Belgrave
Lodge, a Gothic building, standing in the hamlet of that name, which forms part of the estate, and
confers the title of Viscount on this highly distinguished family.
The well-kept walks about the grounds (which consist altogether of fifty-six acres) are extensive and
varied, winding amongst masses of thriving shrubbery, composed of the finest and most suitable specimens
of Rhodoraceze, Coniferee, and others, among which we noticed an Auricaria imbricata of large and healthy
* The poet Chaucer, then 40 years of age, appeared as a witness in this case.
growth. Several noble forest trees, standing here and there, contribute their stately and picturesque
effect to a scene full of ancestral associations, and as beautiful as it is imposing. .
The Vineries and other houses of a similar description are situated in the kitchen garden, which is
separated from the pleasure grounds by a brick wall twelve feet high, and trained with numerous hardy
fruit trees. The entrance gates are of iron, highly ornamented, and surmounted by the letter W. The
garden is of an oblong form, about two acres and a half in extent, and divided into four compartments,
or flats, by transverse brick walls, one of which constitutes the base of a range of buildings, with
a frontage of three hundred feet, erected by the present Marquis of Westminster, for the cultivation of
grapes, pines, and other fruits, as well as plants. The central part is distinctive, and built on a
simple but excellent plan. It is devoted chiefly to Orchidez, which are in a remarkably healthy and
vigorous condition, and form a collection beautifully rich and diversified. Mr Collinson, who has most
ably and successfully superintended this department of the estate, we believe, upwards of twenty-four
years, pays much attention to the cultivation of plants of that order, also to the growing of pines, an
extensive range of pine-pits being to the rear of these buildings, where some excellent specimens are
annually produced.
We cannot complete our brief notice of this highly interesting and magnificent place without referring
to the Grosvenor Gateway, that stands at the head, three miles distant, of the principal approach to the
Hall. It occupies the site of an old manorial residence, called Overleigh Hall, and is a copy of St
Augustine's Gate at Canterbury. There are few specimens of Gothic architecture more beautiful than
this, and being built of a light-coloured description of freestone, enriched with numerous heraldic shields,
and the family arms carved in bold relief over the arch, it is a commanding and, from its origin and
the historical reminiscences of its site, a worthy introduction to what has been truly and appropriately
called the “Palace on the Dee.”
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HOLKHAM HOUSE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF LEICESTER.
Hotxuam, written in Domesday ‘“ Holcha,’ is a parish in the hundred of North Greenhoe, the
principal lordship whereof was granted by the Conqueror to Tovi, one of his attendants, on the deprivation
of Ketel, who was lord in the time of Edward the Confessor, when there belonged to it three Garucates
of arable land, two villains, eight bordars, and five servi; there were two carucates in demesne, a rood
of meadow land, a mill, four cows, twenty-one swine, and three hundred sheep; there were eighteen
socmen, with all their customary dues, who held fifty-six acres of land and two carucates, and of these
he had the soc. To this lordship three freemen were added; two of them under the protection of
Harold, and the other under that of Gers, who held a carucate and a half of land under Tovi’s predecessor,
nine bordars, and seven socmen, with four carucates and sixteen acres of land belonging to them; the
whole was then valued at £6, afterwards, and at the survey, at £8 per annum, and paid two shillings
gelt. Shortly afterwards it passed by escheat to the Crown, and William II granted it to his favourite,
William de Albini, the ancestor of the Earls of Arundel. From this time till 1572 it passed through
many hands, but at that date it was purchased by William Wheatley, Esquire, who was succeeded by
his son, whose daughter carried it in marriage to John Coke, Esquire, fourth son of Sir Edward Coke,
the celebrated Lord Chief Justice of England, by whose noble descendants the property is still held.
The mansion is of a most magnificent character, and consists of a centre and four wings, which are connected
by rectilinear corridors or galleries. It was begun in the year 1734, from designs by the Earl of Leicester,
and finished by his dowager Countess 1760. The centre, composed of white brick, extends three hundred
and forty-five feet in length, by one hundred and eighty in depth, and comprises the principal apartments,
which contain several exquisite specimens of sculpture and painting. The north front is the grand or
principal entrance, and is approached through a triumphal arch of the Doric order, from which there is
a beautiful vista, looking on the Obelisk* in the centre of the park, formed by lines of fine trees a
mile and a half in length. Over the entrance doorway into the hall, which is in the form of a cube,
with a gallery running round it supported by twenty-four Ionic columns, is this characteristic inscription —
* The Obelisk was the first work on the estate, and completed in the year 1729
«This seat on an open barren estate was planned, planted, built, decorated, and inhabited the middle of
the eighteenth century, by Thomas Coke, Earl of Leicester.”
On this side of the house there is a Terrace Garden, consisting of successive slopes and flats, in the
centre of which, at the base, are several flower-beds of various forms, a scolloped shell, and the initials
of the Earl of Leicester in box. The walks are laid down with red gravel. On each side, near the
balustrade, are two specimens of Irish ivy, which very effectively supply the place of Portugal laurels,
those plants not being hardy enough to stand the cold north winds; they look well, and are quite a
novelty in the features of the place.
The south front of the house is of a magnificent character, displaying to perfection the masterly
design of its construction. The flower beds are all in sunk pannels, intersected by tracery and scroll-work,
flanked by “ribbon borders,” and ornamented with urns and vases filled with flowers; two of the former of
a large size, inscribed with the letters L. L. in bass-relief, bemg by Raymond Smith. Broad and extensive
gravel walks, with stone borders, run in parallel and angular lines across its surface; and at the bottom
of the principal walk, leading from the centre of the building, is a grand characteristic fountain, by
Raymond Smith, of “St George and the Dragon,” carved in the finest description of Portland stone
(see Plate). |
From the front of the Conservatory, on each side of the walk, runs a chain pattern, flanked by
vases and beds of Rhododendron, similar to those in the large compartments nearer the House. At the
end of this walk stands a very fine Roman Sarcophagus of marble, filled with flowers, and bearing a
Latin inscription.
There are three gates of bronze, partly gilt, and surmounted by the Earl’s coronet and initials.
From the Terrace the walk continues to the Temple or Pavilion, and from thence it is bordered by cast-
iron vases, filled with flowers; ‘‘ which vases are all that remain of the old garden designed by Sir Francis
Chantry.” This walk is terminated by a small flower garden, which, with the whole range that look
so beautiful and tempting, was executed from designs by Nesfield.
In the Pleasure-ground is a “shell-house,” the entrance door being guarded, but very harmlessly so, by
two shells from Sebastopol. A small fountain and sun-dial stand near, and we noticed a very fine
specimen of the Corsican larch. The American garden, filled with plants of the best description, joins
this, and its effect is considerably heightened by the variegated walks that intersect it. Further on, a
walk of great extent winds amongst lines of standard roses, and beds of Bamboo, Arundo, and others,
adjoining which is an old thorn, sixty-two yards in circumference.
In the Park is an extensive lake, which has lately undergone great improvements. It is considered
to be one of the finest pieces of artificial water in the country, and the beautiful and picturesque
scenery to which it gives effect, forms, from the Obelisk, a striking and happy feature in the magnificent
and extensive view that spreads around.
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TEDDESLEY-HAY,
STAFFORDSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD HATHERTON.
‘| EDDESLEY-HAY, a magnificent estate of about 2,586 acres, in the hundred of Cuttlestone, is
mostly famous as the scene of an important and highly-improved system of agriculture—extended over a
large tract of country, which probably was never before subjected to the process of manual labour. This
tract is a part of that fine old forest of historical interest known as Cannock Chase, which, swelling to
a considerable altitude, covers a surface of upwards of 32,000 acres. The most ancient history of this
forest extends to the time when, previous to the Roman Invasion, it was inhabited by the Cangi, a
tribe who served their more powerful neighbours, the Cornabii, as herdsmen; and when its wild depths
witnessed in all their impressive character the mysterious rites of Druidism. There is, near to Aldridge,
a small common, enclosed some years since, known as “ Druids’ Heath,’ on which formerly existed some
circular entrenchments, supposed to be of British origin, and where it is presumed the Arch-Druid of
Britain resided the greater or more favourable part of the year. According to some etymologists
the name is derived from Cangi, or Ceancs, as they were called, and the connection of the forest with
certain religious Druidical rites. Some are of opinion that it owes its origin to Canute, who was fond of
hunting in its extensive solitudes; but to whatever source the derivation is due, it was for many
centuries an object of great attraction to the different rulers of the people; and one of their grand
hunting-fields, both before and subsequent to the Norman Conquest. In the course of time its venerable
oaks were swept away, many thousands being blown down by a hurricane in 1593, and it retained
only the vastness and desolation of a heath, without the redeeming beauties of tree or foliage, till
the Enclosure Act presented the opportunity to convert its fine soil into a useful and_ profitable
theatre of agriculture. It was customary in the earlier times of the Normans to enclose small parks
in those forests or chases held by the Crown; and in Cannock there were several. In the park at
Teddesley are to be seen the outlines of one of these ancient enclosures; it is circular in form, and
distinguished by great numbers of oak trees, of extraordinary girth, some being scathed by lightning ;
the greater part having decayed and leafless branches, and all bearing the impress of a former
magnificence. It is called the “ Old Coppice Park:” and what makes it more interesting is the
circumstance, that many years ago it contained the remains of a small square Roman camp, in which
was found, in 1780, a short iron dagger, perfect in shape, but much corroded with rust. No traces
of these entrenchments exist at the present day. There is also on the road leading to Stafford, about
a mile from the Hall, a very remarkable oak tree, which measures nine yards in circumference; although
partly decayed and split down the middle, it is likely to be an object of much interest to many future
generations. There is a tradition that it was planted in the time of King Stephen, but its appearance
would indicate a greater age.
from the most barbaric to the most enlightened. The side door of the Conservatory opens into the
late Countess’s Private Garden, altered several years ago from its first plan by Mr Nesfield. This
Garden contains a curious and interesting memorial of two sons of genius, who sung so sweetly and
so well the language of the heart. Earl John on visiting Petrarch’s house at Argua gathered and brought
to Alton some bunches of Ivy, which the Poet Moore, while engaged on Lalla Rookh at Mayfield, near
at hand, and being a frequent visitor during that time at Alton Towers, planted against an iron chair in
a corner of this Garden. It thrives well, and the form of the chair is preserved by clipping the Ivy
as often as necessary. The Garden is of an Italian character, and contains some fine specimens of sculpture
by Nys, who flourished at Rome in 1721. There is also a fountain which formerly stood in the wood,
with three tazzas or basins, the lower one supported on carved lions’ paws ; a copy of the Warwick Vase
m marble, on a tripod stand of the same material; a David strangling the lion, and a Flora in white marble.
There are likewise two beds with broad borders of Box embroidery, representing the Rose, Shamrock, and
Thistle, and filled in with appropriate coloured gravel. It is further ornamented with a large monogram
of the letter S, in box, by Mr Nesfield; and some irregular lines of the descriptive and sober Irish Yew.
After traversing a beautiful trellis walk of great length, covered with luxuriant creepers and flowering plants,
at the end of which is a small Oratory, richly furnished, where the late Countess often retired for religious
meditation, we saunter leisurely back to the Terrace Garden, to watch the shadows gathering around, and
the last beams of the sun playing on the summit of the distant Weever Hills. At an angle of the wall
there is a small watch-tower, and on going up to it, we were almost startled to find ourselves suddenly
before so sturdy a representation of the iron-clad sentinel of feudal times. As we stood beside this
figure, and beheld the realities of genius clothing the hill-sides, and stretching far away into the valley,
in forms distinct and varying, but ever picturesque ; and when we remembered what it had been less than
half a century ago, bleak, sterile, and lonely, we involuntarily turned to the small Greek Cupola, and
in the words so forcible and truthful, which flash forth the memory of him whose bust thus stands in
the midst of his labours, we exclaimed, “ Truly, indeed, has he made the desert smile.”
The Hall, which stands on the verge of the forest, consists of a body and two wings, in the form
of a crescent, and was erected by the late Sir Edward Littleton, Bart., about ninety years ago. It
is built of brick, and occupies a gently-rising eminence, surrounded by fine old forest trees and thriving
plantations of more recent growth. The situation is healthy, and commands an extensive view both of
Staffordshire and Shropshire; and at the foot of the hill, about four miles distant, lies the singularly-
quiet town of Penkridge—invested by many antiquarians with the interest and honour of a Roman origin,
the site being the supposed one of Pennocrucium, about two miles to the north of which ran the
Watling Street, or military road of those universal conquerors.
Previous to the erection of the Hall, the residence of the Littletons was at Pilleton, about three
miles distant, in a low and unfavourable situation. It is of ancient origin, being shortly after the
Conquest in the possession of the Abbot of Burton, and was then called Pillatenhall. In the time of
Henry I, it became the property of Edwin de Pillatenhall, and subsequently that of a family named
Wynnesbury, the last of which was Alicia, or Alice, married to Richard Littleton, who thus acquired
the estates of Pilleton, Teddesley, Huntington, and the whole of her father’s possessions. This Alice
would seem to be considered a Wrottesley by blood, as the Wrottesley coat is introduced in place of
the paternal one of Wynnesbury, on the tombs of the first four Sir Edward Littletons, in Penkridge
Church ; the living of which, as well as the greater part of the town, being the property of the family,
whose monuments in the church are both numerous and splendid. They were succeeded by their son
Sir Edward Littleton; and it is a somewhat singular circumstance that from that time to the present,
with but few exceptions, the heir to the estates and title should be named Edward.
The Littletons are an ancient family, and have always been distinguished for their wealth and
powerful connexions. John de Littleton had extensive possessions in the Vale of Evesham in the time
of Henry II, whose son bore the device of three scollop-shells, which are still borne by the family.
They had also an estate at Frankley, in Worcestershire, where the eminent Judge Littleton was born in
the beginning of the fifteenth century: he died in 1481, and was buried in Worcester Cathedral. The
celebrated Bishop Littleton was likewise an ancestor of this family. We also find that Edward Littleton,
15: Hen. VIII, and 31 same King; Sir Edward Littleton, Knt., 4 Edw. VI, 5 Elizabeth, and 23 and
35 same reion; Sir Thomas, Knt., James I; Sir Edward, Bart., 12 Charles I; Edward, 33 Charles II;
Edward, 2 Anne; and Sir Edward Littleton, Bart, 3 George III., were Sheriffs of the County; and
the present representative of the family is Lord Lieutenant of Staffordshire. His Lordship’s predecessor,
Sir Edward Littleton, was celebrated for his patriotism and hospitality. He was chosen to represent the
County in Parliament five different times; and, as soon as those duties permitted, he retired to
Teddesley to carry out some of the finest agricultural improvements of the age, and to endear to him
both rich and poor, by personal kindness and affability. His public conduct was deservedly admired; and
the formation of the Worcestershire Canal through this part of the country was due to the energy and
liberality with which he supported the undertaking. He also followed a fine old English custom, of
providing all respectable visitors with beef and ale who chose to partake of so substantial a fare. After
a life devoted to the improvement and comfort of his numerous tenantry, he died at Teddesley in
the year 1812, and was succeeded by his nephew, the present Lord Hatherton, then E. J. Walhouse,
of Hatherton, Esq., who took the name of Littleton, and was created first Baron Hatherton in 1885.
Hatherton Hall is an ancient residence of the Walhouse family, in the parish of Cannock, on the
Watling Street.
To those at all interested in agricultural pursuits, the name of Teddesley and its noble owner must
be familiar. The celebrated steam cultivator, and several other implements of an ingenious character, are
here used, and their important capabilities made known by a series of public trials. Some of these
improved instruments of husbandry are the invention of his Lordship’s agent, J. Bright, Esq., who has
been connected with the estate a great number of years, and is distinguished for his high professional
attainments and sound judgment. The home-farm consists of about 1,700 acres, many of which have
been recovered from the old Chase. Attached to the farm-buildings is an immense water-wheel,
thirty-eight feet in diameter, worked by water obtained by land drainage, which is conducted from a
reservoir erected for the purpose, and afterwards passed on and distributed to great advantage over
several water meadows. This wheel is a powerful auxiliary, and is applied with great success to numerous
important purposes.
The breed of cattle on this estate is highly prized; and altogether it presents one of the best
specimens of agricultural excellence to be found in the country.
The gardens of this fine establishment are not of such extensive dimensions as some others in the
county; but they are of a high order, excellent, and present some most beautiful and interesting features.
The principal garden is a large plot of ground, intended at one time to be devoted to American plants
—many of which, including the Auricaria imbricata, are now to be seen; but the idea was abandoned, and
it is now one of the most picturesque and lovely flower-gardens to be imagined. It is surrounded by
trees—the most choice specimens being a group of cedars of Lebanon. The Arbor vite are remarkably fine,
some being upwards of thirty feet in height, and massive in proportion. They produce an imposing
effect. Scotch and silver fir, intermingling with other forest trees, make an excellent background to the
striking picture this garden presents. The centre is occupied by numerous irregularly-planned beds,
contaiming the usual gay flowering plants in great perfection, which contrast beautifully with the surrounding
variegated foliage. The pretty Kalmea latifolia, which in many places blooms with difficulty, is here
abundant. A serpentine piece of water, crossed by an ornamental iron bridge and headed by a
miniature lake, intersects a part of this garden. Gold and silver fish glitter in its clear waters; and a
small island of rock-work in the centre of the lake is planted with ferns, and its borders and surface
devoted to some specimens of White Lily and Iris. A tempting summer-house contributes to the
enjoyment of the scene. At the upper end of this garden, adjoining the Avenue, stand two very
handsome cedars of Lebanon; and near the gate double lines of Irish yew. There is much richness
and diversity of character in this garden at whatever point it may be viewed.
The arched Avenue of elms, of which we give an illustration, is a very fine one, and in the course
of time will be more imposing than it is now. It is about seventy feet hich and twenty feet wide, and would
appear to have been planted about the time of the erection: of the Hall. The view from it is striking,
embracing undulating hills richly wooded, fertile fields and meadows, and the picturesque outlines of
Cannock Chase. The trees are in a thriving state, and form a complete arch or rather vista. At the
lower end is a cedar of Lebanon, raised from seed obtained by Colonel the Honourable E. R. Littleton
—his Lordship’s eldest son—from a tree at Lebanon, about ten years ago. It is now ten feet high,
and in a healthy state.
At the head of the Avenue, the Long Walk leads towards the Hall. It is bordered by a line of
standard roses, with a deep fringe of evergreens, chiefly rhododendrons, which attain great perfection.
There are some excellent specimens of American thorns; and one black American spruce is thirty-five
feet in height, and twenty feet through the base. The Douglas pine and Hemlock spruce are also fine.
Some pretty views distinguish this walk. The Terrace Walk joins this, and is similarly treated. It
contains in addition specimens of Taxodium sempervirens, Pinus virgineus, and red Cedar. A short
distance from it is a sheet of water, called the Wild-duck Pond, where great numbers of various sorts
of wild fowl are to be seen throughout the year. A most excellent view of Cannock and the intervening
country is a great attraction to this walk.
The Terrace Garden in front of the Hall was designed by Mr Nesfield, and contains some effective
varieties of bedding, and other plants. The west front is laid down chiefly with turf, and studded with
a choice collection of standard roses. The prospect from this point is most extended and beautiful, the
Wrekin being distinctly visible; and a short distance from the foot of the Terrace spreads a bright and
silvery lake, of about eight acres, ornamented by clusters of forest trees.
The Kitchen Garden is surrounded by a brick wall, about fourteen feet high, and covered with some
excellent fruit trees, including apricots, peaches, nectarines, and cherries. The situation is good, and
the ground slopes gently due south, while it is further protected from unfavourable winds by a complete
fence of large trees. Within the walls, three acres are under cultivation; and round the exterior a narrow
slip increases it to four acres. It is very prolific, and in capital order. The principal house is a Vinery,
one hundred and fifty feet in length, containing some healthy, well-bearing plants, chiefly black Hamburghs.
There are also some choice specimens of green-house plants—but the collection is not large.
——
London, T. M°hean, 2 6, Haymarket. Printed at 70, S*Martun's lax
“VISTA, IN THE GARDENS AT TEDDESLEY
THE SEAT OF THE FLT HON®t*® LORD HATHER'T
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CASTLE-HOWARD,
YORKSHIRE.
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF CARLISLE.
C aSTLE-HOWARD is situated about sixteen miles to the north-west of “Old Ebor,” in the North
Riding of the county of York, and the parish and hundred, or, as it is Calkede wapentake of Bulmer.
The site was for many centuries occupied by a castle named Hindershill, or Hinderskelf; portions of which
were erected in the reign of Edward III, by the Barons Greystoke, co. Cumberland, whose property it
then was. Leland supposes the term to be derived from its situation at the junction of the wapentake
of Bulmer and Rydale. Camden, however, has this passage relative to the place—‘* At Hindershill is a
fair quadrant of stone, having four toures builded castle like, but it is no ample thing. The latter part
of it seemeth to have been made by the Greystoke, whose lands the Lords Dacres now have. The
park is four miles in compass. The name may be rendered hundred hills, or the hundred well; and it
is called by some Hundred-skell, from the number of springs there.” Numerous springs of water still
exist in the immediate locality.
The old Castle, the distinct origin of which thus appears uncertain, was accidentally burnt down at
the end of the 17th century.
The erection of the present magnificent building was commenced on the site of the old Castle, in
the year 1702, by Charles, third Earl of Carlisle,* who was then Earl Marshal of England, from a
design of Sir John Vanburgh. Although it is named Castle-Howard, there are no features of a
castellated character in its construction. In style it partakes of the Corinthian, the principal fronts
being ornamented by ranges of pilasters of that order. The centre, terminating in a handsome cupola,
is supported by two wings which constitute, to the south, a frontage of 323 feet. The approach at
this point consists of a grand flight of steps, from the summit of which the prospect is of the most
beautiful and varied description, and. richly deserves the general praise awarded to it. In its pro-
minent features, the mansion resembles Blenheim House, near Woodstock, by the same architect; but
it possesses a longer line of frontage, and differs materially in other respects. The interior is of a
highly-finished and magnificent description, and contains a collection of works of art, princely and noble
* The Earldom of Carlisle was first conferred on Baron Harcla in the time of Edward II; from 1323 to 1622, the title lay
dormant, when James I revived it in the person of James Hay, first Viscount Doncaster, whose son, failing in issue, died in 1660.
in itself, and of the rarest order as regards its artistic merits. One of the gems so well known to
connoisseurs is the “Three Marys,” by Annibal Caracci, a work of the most extraordinary and touching
fidelity, and long considered the ne plus ultra of art. Before the French revolution it adorned the
collection of the Duke of Orleans, who refused 8,000/. for this wonderful master-piece of painting; but
during the excitement of those destructive times it found its way into England, and subsequently became
the property of Frederick, fifth Earl of Carlisle, and his noble successors.
There are numerous family and historical portraits, and other paintings of the highest excellence by
the old Masters; also a superb collection of mythological and classic statuary, with busts and other
interesting objects, including a small cylindrical altar, brought by the immortal Nelson “o’er the Italian
waves,” which once stood in the Temple of Apollo at Delphi. On the top is placed a tablet bearing
an appropriate inscription by the present Earl of Carlisle, of which the following is the opening:
“ Pass not this ancient altar with disdain,
"Twas once in Delphi’s sacred temple reared;
From this the Pythian poured her mystic strain,
While Greece its fate in anxious silence heard.”
We might enlarge to an indefinite length on the various objects that a highly cultivated taste and
laudable generosity has collected to adorn a mansion of such noble proportions; but it is hardly our
province to indulge in more than a passing notice of such beautiful productions. Throughout the year,
visitors, by the attentive and liberal kindness of the Earl of Carlisle, have access to both Castle and
Gardens. |
The principal flower gardens (the whole of which constitute an area of about 100 acres) are
immediately in the south front of the Castle, and have recently been laid down in the Italian style,
from plans by Nesfield, executed by the present energetic and skilful gardener, Mr George Sutherland.
They are separated from the kitchen garden by a fine stately avenue of lime trees in double rows,
running north and south, with a centre walk of gravel eighteen feet wide traversing the whole length.
At the northern end stands the beautifully sculptured marble boar, brought from Italy by the fifth Earl
of Carlisle ; and at the other, on a raised grass mound surrounded by standard Portugal laurels, and
placed on a pedestal containing some beautiful lines by Milman, is a fine statue of Apollo. Adjoining
the avenue, on a sloping bank of turf, are some excellent specimens of the Lebanon and deodar cedars,
with yew and holly. Near this bank, between two raised stone flower-beds, stands a statue of Jason
with the Golden Fleece, and in a parallel line with the west walk of the parterre are six Grecian vases
on pedestals. The large Terrace walk, ten yards wide and nearly 700 yards in length, commences at
the iron gate at the north-west angle of the wall that divides the kitchen garden from the parterre,
passes in front of the Castle, and terminates in the Raywood. From this walk the descent into the
flower garden consists of three flights of stone steps opposite the centre and each wing of the
building, the principal one being twenty feet wide. At the bottom a walk, diverging to the east
and west, leads to another terrace of a _ similar order 300 yards distant, which is bounded by a
balustrade with very handsome stone banisters, designed by Nesfield. Between the terraces, in the
centre of the parterre, is the magnificent fountain erected three years ago, from designs by the Earl
of Carlisle. As this fountain is so much admired, and its dimensions unusually striking, we will give
a slight description of its construction. It might be termed the “ Atlas Fountain,’ the chief figure being
a colossal carving of that demi-god bearing the globe, which is of copper, six feet in diameter, painted
stone colour, and encircled by a blue band containing in gold the signs of the zodiac. This figure
is supported by a block of stone, in the centre of a basin thirty feet in diameter, that rests
on some massive stone-work rising several feet from the middle of the lower or outer basin, which
assumes a diameter of ninety-four feet. At right angles on the upper basin are four Tritons with
trumpets, by which the water is thrown upon the globe, out of the summit of which at the same time
issues a stream in the form of the prince’s feather, clothing in its fall the figure of Atlas in a sheet of
flashing silver. From the upper basin the water descends in pipes, and again rises into eight stone
shells, placed one at each arm of the Triton, from which it gracefully falls into the lower basin. The
whole of the figures are of Portland stone, sculptured by J. Thomas, of London. From this the water
is conveyed in pipes to the lake, at the south-east front, where it forms another fountain, composed
of eight jets falling outwards from a common centre, and a single jet d’eau, that rises from the midst
to a height of fifty feet. The supply is obtained from a reservoir 100 feet in diameter by ten feet
deep, erected in the Raywood for general purposes. At the village of Coneysthorpe, a mile and a half
distant, are the works, consisting of a steam engine of twenty-five horse power, and capable of pumping
360 gallons per minute, by which the supply is maintained.
Between the fountain and the Castle is a sloping panelled space, devoted to flowers of the
richest order, and decorated with scrolls of box worked on gravel and spar of different colours. A
flizht of steps descends opposite the principal entrance into this panel, which is surrounded by alternate grass
and gravel walks. In winter its ornamental vases are sufficient to make it interesting, and when in the
summer it is planted with masses of the choicest plants of sorts, it is a very effective and beautiful
spot. On the general level above the panel stand, in different positions, some large Maltese vases on
stone pedestals filled with decorative plants, a few beds of kalmias of sorts, ledums of sorts, with
spiral plants, such as Irish yew, junipers, red cedars, &c. Two large tazzas of stone, eighteen
feet long, twelve feet broad, and eight feet high, beautifully worked from a design of the late Earl
of Carlisle, and generally filled with decorative plants, occupy a prominent place to the north of the
garden just alluded to. |
Crossed at right angles by a gravel walk are three others, the centre twenty feet wide, leading
from the fountain towards the South Terrace. On each side run lines of standard Portugal laurel and
Irish yew, on grass borders. Facing the fountain, in the centre of the two large flats of turf, stands
a large Maltese vase, following which, in diversified circles, are walks of variegated gravel, and flower
borders. The corners of the outer ring, as well as those on the opposite side, are filled with four
large beds of hybrid rhododendrons. To the south, lower down, on an oblong piece of turf, surrounded
by flower beds and gravel walks of the same shape, are two statues; to the west a statue of Midas,
and to the east one of Apollo; the whole on beautiful carved stone pedestals. To the south, facmg
each wing of the Castle, are two large grouped statues. Opposite the western walk stands a characteristic
group, Pluto and Proserpine, and facing that of the east is one of Hercules and Antzus, both on equally
massive pedestals. On the same side of the garden, near the balustrade, faced by Jason with the Golden
Fleece, is a statue of Silenus nursing young Bacchus. Both positions are similarly treated—raised flower
beds in stone run parallel to each vase. A very handsome balustrade bounds the east and south sides
of this garden.
Near the statue of Apollo at the lime-tree avenue is the entrance, by a large gravel walk, to the
new rosery, laid out last year and planted with the choicest collection of hardy dwarf and standard
roses—the former in beds and the latter on turf. It is oval in shape, divided into ten beds, and in
the centre, on a grass circle, stand the vase and pedestal, removed from the large Terrace, where they had
been erected by the late Earl, on which is inscribed the beautiful and well-known poem, entitled
Pestum, composed by the present highly talented and distinguished Earl of Carlisle when at Oxford, in
1821. The outer borders of this garden of roses are divided by large beds of laurel and other ornamental
plants, while scattered over its surface are tufts of Pampas grass. In the south-west angle stands
a very fine vase, brought from Malta by the Hon. Edward Howard (brother to the Earl), and inscribed
with his name. The south terrace joins the walk through the rosery, and leads by a circle to the
kitchen garden. Eastward from the south terrace, descending a flight of steps, a broad gravel walk
leads to the south lake and the temple of Diana, a remarkably beautiful and interesting building, twenty-
seven feet square, with four porticos, and from which a most charming and extensive view is obtained.
Ionic columns and pilasters of black and yellow marble adorn both sides, the flooring is composed of
antique marble of various colours, and busts and statues add to its elegance and pretensions. A short
distance onwards stands the last earthly resting place of this noble family, the Mausoleum.
To the west of the Castle, and facing the new wing, is a space of about two and a half acres, enclosed from
the park by a strong iron palisade, which is intended to be laid out as a flower garden in the Italian style.
The site of the old rosery, north of the kitchen garden, is now a very pretty garden, sheltered from the
north, east, and west by large forest trees. The centre is composed of three stone monograms of the letter
C on gravel; the beds are oblong and circular in form, and an elaborately carved pedestal of a sun-
dial stands in front of some wire arches covered with climbing roses.
There are some very pretty detached gardens in the neighbourhood of the Castle. One much
admired near the Dairy is connected with the west front by a gravel walk across the park, and surrounded
by a strong iron fence. Mr Henderson, his Lordship’s agent, resides at this favoured spot. Two
hydraulic pumps, fixed near it, supply the interior of the Castle with clear but hard water, to rectify
which a filtering apparatus is in course of erection. The large lake of sixty-three acres, much frequented
by many descriptions of water-fowl, spreads out before the Dairy, and contributes materially to the
picturesque beauty of the scene. Many other objects of special interest—works of art, fringed with the
rich combination of tree and flower; improvements well conceived and ably executed, wherever required,
meet the eye in every direction; and in prominent positions, raised by so many generations of the
patriotic Howards, inscribed and stately monuments commemorate the deeds of Marlborough, Nelson, and
Wellington. On the western face of one of these monuments—the Obelisk—that stands in the centte of
the splendid avenues of lime-trees, is the following characteristic and time-honoured inscription :—
*‘Charles, the third Earl of Carlisle, of the family of Howards, erected a Castle where the
old Castle of Hinderskelf stood, and called it Castle-Howard. He likewise made the
plantations in this Park, and all the outworks, monuments, and other plantations belonging
to the said seat.
«« He began these works in the year 1702, and set up this inscription :
ANNO DOMINI MDCCXXXI.”
Vole Soe Sel de
THE SEAT OF VICE-ADMIRAL SIR AUGUSTUS CLIFFORD, BART.
WESTFIELD HOUSE was built by the late Earl Spencer, in 1810, who bequeathed it to his second
son, the present Earl, who, in 1839, parted with it to Mr Thistlethwaite, of Southwick Park, Hants;
he sold it in 1843 to the present possessor, Vice-Admiral Sir Augustus Clifford, Bart., who, in 1845,
commenced laying out the Garden in its present form, and made considerable alterations and additions
to the House, having built a new Dining-room, Library, and Staircase. The grounds of Westfield are
divided in three parts, an upper lawn surrounds the House on the north and west sides. In front of
the new Library, the lawn is divided by a gravel walk, at the end of which is placed, under a Temple
of the Ionic order, a statue of Mercury and Pandora, by Zough; and on the sides are handsome marble
vases, and a statue of the Crouching Venus. In front of the House stand the Apollo Belvidere and the
Diana & la Biche, by the side of a bastion which commands a beautiful view, ranging from Cowes
Point up the Southampton water, and over the Solent Sea to Spithead, as far as Chichester Cathedral.
Below this is an Ornamental Flower Garden, enclosed by balustrades, with ball and vases on the piers.
On each side are the Dansatrice of Canova, and in the centre a beautiful Bacchante, by Angelo Bienaimeé,
with the following lines from Apulieus, inscribed on the pedestal—
“To the sweet musick of Apollo’s lyre
Venus danced with graceful steps ;”
and in the recess under the bastion sits a bronze statue of the Nymph at the Fountain, by Geiss of
Berlin.
The next division, which was formed out of the orchard, planted with shrubs, and enclosed by
balustrades, connects the upper and lower gardens, and is decorated with the Four Seasons, in marble,
as well as Paris, Adonis, Minerva, made by Angelo Bienaimeé, at Carrara, expressly for this Garden,
which was commenced in 1845, and is now nearly complete.
The straight walk from the Bastion leads to the Lower Terrace, by the sea, which is 430 feet long,
with a Pavilion at each end, and a seat, copied from those at Pompeii, in front, looking towards Osborne,
Stokes Bay, Anglesea Villas, and the opposite Coast.
Subjoined is an account taken from the ‘Isle of Wight Observer ’—
THE WESTFIELD GALLERY.
(From the ‘Isle of Wight Obdserver.’)
In the account of the Isle of Wight Horticultural Show, held in the grounds of Sir Augustus
Clifford, Bart., at Westfield, which we gave a few weeks ago, a passing allusion was made to the new
Gallery of Art recently erected at that marine residence. Since that account appeared, Sir Augustus has
kindly shown us_ the Gallery and its contents, a short description of which may, perhaps, be very
interesting to our readers.
The Gallery is built at the south-west portion of the residence, overlooking a beautiful lawn studded
with fine specimens of sculpture, with a background of luxuriant foliage. The interior is finished with
Corinthian pilasters, supporting an enriched cornice from which springs a segmental ceiling, divided into
compartments (corresponding with the divisions formed by the pilasters) and these are again subdivided
by enriched offered pannels, supporting a skylight, through which the principal light to the Gallery is
admitted. The glass in the skylight is of ornamental design, and emblematical of Art, Literature, and
Music, and has a very pleasing effect. The room, from the variety in the plan, has a striking and
unusual character, which is much enhanced by the semicircular tribune, with the Apollo Belvidere, at the
south end, over which is a medallion of Sir Augustus, faithfully and excellently executed by Mr Gray.
the sculptor, of Ryde; and the anteroom, with the Apollino, at the north end. This latter portion
receives its light through a skylight of ornamental glass resembling the signs of the zodiac. The
decorations of the room are very effective; the walls being hung with a deep blue paper, diapered with black,
divided by large gold moulding of the cable pattern into pannels, with stiles formed of a gold-coloured
paper. The paper is continued round the whole of the tribune and in the anteroom. The ceiling’ is
in grey and white, relieved by gilding. |
The whole Gallery, with its beautiful variety of works of art, consisting of pictures, statues, vases,
bronzes, with the elegant mahogany bookcases, form a completeness indicative of the most refined taste;
at the same time utility has not been sacrificed, as we have never been in any gallery—large or small—
where the light is so well diffused over the objects as in this.
The designs were by Mr Thomas Hellyer, architect of Melville street, Ryde, and the building and
all its architectural decorations were completed by Messrs Dashwood, of Ryde, to all of whom the
greatest credit 1s due for the masterly manner in which it is carried out.
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ISLE OF WIGHT,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD DOWNES.
THE ancient history of the Isle of Wight points to those mighty pioneers of the human race, the
Pheenicians, as its first colonists, when it either formed part of the main land, or was divided from it
only at the flow of the tide. The Belge: subsequently made it the principal station of their commercial
intercourse with Gaul. From the Roman invasion its history is in a measure identical with that of
England, but more particularly marked with scenes of strife and bloodshed during the Saxon occupation,
many traditions being still extant which refer to the sanguinary conflicts of that race with the Danes.
In the reign of Edward the Confessor it was twice plundered by Earl Godwin; and again, in the time
of Harold, by Earl Tosti. The Conqueror conferred its absolute government on William Fitz-Osborne,
afterwards Earl of Hereford; and, according to Leland, Henry Beauchamp, Duke of Warwick, was
crowned King of the Isle of Wight by Henry VI. As is well known, the unfortunate Charles I
was confined in Carisbrook Castle, from which he was conveyed a prisoner to the solitary Castle
of Hurst but seven short weeks before his execution at Whitehall. From that time to the present its
internal tranquillity has been little disturbed; the most melancholy circumstance connected with it being
the wreck of the Royal George at Spithead, in 1782, when, during many subsequent days, the receding
tide left on the Duver, now called the Strand, at Ryde, numerous bodies of its ill-fated crew, where
they were buried, and have since remained without a monument of any kind to preserve their memory
from oblivion.
Binstead, at the time of the Domesday Survey, was called Benestede, and formed part of the
possessions of Wilh Filij Stur. The Church itself is not mentioned in that work, but, from the style
of the building before its restoration in 1842, it would seem to have been in existence prior to the
Conquest. It is still a remarkable construction, and of great interest to the antiquary. On the key-stone
of the gateway, leading to the Churchyard, there is a curious carved figure, which, whether with justice
or not appears doubtful, has been distinguished as a representation of the Saxon god, Thor. On the
eastern face of the hill, on which the Church stands, are the celebrated stone quarries from which
William of Wykeham obtained the material for the building of Winchester Cathedral. These ancient quarries
no doubt gave the name to Quarr Abbey, called in some of the oldest orants, Quarrariz, erected, about
a mile to the westward of Binstead, by Baldwin, Earl of Devon, in the thirty-second of Henry I, for
Cistercian Monks, and which was one of the first institutions of that order erected in England. Most
of the lands with which it was endowed were given in the reign of Stephen. The site consists
of upwards of thirty acres, surrounded by a wall still perfect in many places. At the dissolution it
was valued at £134. 3s. Ild. The demesne was granted to John and George Mills, merchants, of
Southampton, by Henry VIII, and subsequently purchased by Lord Chief Justice Fleming, of Stoneham,
whose descendants still hold the estate. The Refectory alone is standing, and now used as a barn.
Binstead House and grounds are delightfully situated about a mile to the westward of the fashionable
and flourishing town of Ryde. The House was accidentally destroyed by fire a few years ago, and has
since been rebuilt on a more extended and elegant plan by the present Lord Downes, who, a representative
of the ancient family of De Burgh, married the widow of the late John Willis Fleming, Esq., of
Stoneham, Hants, the owner of the property. The hill occupied by the House and grounds is clothed
with a fine old wood—the remnants of an ancient forest—that extends to the extreme edge of the shore.
It commands some extensive and beautiful views, having especially a picturesque foreground, including
Spithead, with its varying fleets, the fortifications and town of Portsmouth, the blue Solent and opposite
coast, and far away over the New Forest, sweeping round to the magnificent residence of her Majesty,
Osborne House, and the intervening woods, downs, creeks, and bays of the Island. The Gardens are of
a rich and diversified description, planned so as to show the natural advantages to perfection, and kept
up in a liberal and devoted spirit. The House stands on a rock, and on the same level are the
Parterre and Upper Garden, which were begun in 1845. In the centre of the Parterre is a large
raised basket, and flower-beds of various forms, the outer beds bordered by a walk coming square to the
edge. The design and arrangement of this beautiful spot is due to the skill of Lady Downes. On
the long terrace of this garden, opposite the House, a balustrade, surmounted by elegant vases,
containing a variety of flowers, protects visitors from the otherwise dangerous face of the rock, down
which leaps a murmuring cascade, flanked by two flights of steps (see Plate). These steps lead to
the Rose Garden, a delightful retreat, sheltered on one side by the rock, and from the sea-breeze by
lofty trees. The roses are trained over iron trellis-work, forming seats and bowers. Creepers and
flowers skirt the banks of a rustic lake occupied by a pretty fountain, and some beautiful shady walks,
extending upwards of a mile, lead gradually to the shore. Much art is displayed in the arrangement of
the different flowers and creepers about the base and_ other parts of the rock, which, from its rugged
and picturesque character, produces a very fine and striking effect. Various shrubs of excellent growth,
and well disposed, abound throughout the gardens, and, from the genial nature of the climate,
many plants luxuriate in the open air that in more northern districts require artificial heat to ensure
preservation.
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WILTSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF PEMBROKE.
Witton OR WILYTOWN, called by olden writers, Vilodunum, is in a broad and _ fertile valley,
watered by the rivers Noddre and Wily. It is a place of great antiquity, and is supposed by
Baxter to have been the chief seat of the British Prince Carvilius; according to Henry of Huntingdon,
it afterwards constituted the capital of the West Saxon dominions. In the year 823, Egbert engaged
in this vicinity and completely defeated the Mercian Army, commanded by their King Beornwalf, who
had invaded Wessex; this signal overthrow established the supremacy of the West Saxon Prince, and
eventually enabled his successors to render themselves sole sovereigns of England. Here was also
fought in 871 a battle between King Alfred and the Danes. Wilton House is built on the site of
nt Abbey, which owed its origin to Wulstan, Earl of Wiltshire, who, having defeated Ethelmund, King
of the Mercians, in a great battle, repaired a certain old church at Wilton, which, according to the
chronicle of Wilton, was for a Chantry or Oratory for priests to pray for the soul of his father,
Alquimund,* whom the Mercian Monarch had put to death;+ this foundation took place in the year 773, -
during the lifetime of Wulstan.
Followmg the authority of the chronicler, the foundation of the Priory was thirty years after the
death of Wulstan, in the year 830, when LEgbert, at the request of his sister, Alburga, the now aged
widow of Wulstan, and by the advice of Helmstanus, Bishop of Winchester, converted the Oratory into
a Priory of thirteen sisters, of which Alburga, taking “the mantle and the ring,’ was the first Prioress.
Alfred, in the year 871, after his battle with the Danes in the vicinity of the Town, at the
instigation of his Queen, not only refounded, but removed it from its former situation to the site of what
had previously been the Royal Palace, and added twelve nuns and an abbess, and gave it the title of
an Abbey, and granted his Manor of Wilton, with all its rights and privileges in perpetual alms.
Edward, his son, being witness, wishing thereby to increase both the revenue and importance of this
establishment.
A rather romantic and ludicrous incident is related of one Sir Osborne Gifford, who surreptitiously
obtained entrance to the nunnery of Wilton, and stole therefrom two fair nuns, carrying them off as his
* Hoare’s ‘History of Wiltshire.’
+ This is probably the account given by a Monkish historian.
personal booty. This daring theft having come to the ears of the Archbishop of Canterbury, John
Peckham, the adventurous knight was first excommunicated, his subsequent absolution being made
dependent upon the following conditions, &c., &e.
First, that he should restore the nuns to the Abbey; secondly, that he should never again enter
a religious house of females, or hold communication with a nun, so long as he lived; thirdly, that he
should be whipped naked with rods, on three several Sundays, in the Parish Church of Wilton, and
as often both in the Market and Parish Church of Shaftesbury ; fourthly, that he should fast regularly
for a specified number of months; fifthly, that he should lay aside all the insignia of knightly dignity,
and wear only clothes of a russet colour or sheep-skins; and lastly, that he should not put on a shirt
till he had passed three years in the Holy Land,—all of which he swore faithfully to perform.
At this time there was an abbess of the name of Juliana Gifford. Wilton Abbey was dissolved
in the thirty-fifth year of Henry VIII, by whom the site and buildings were granted to Sir William
Herbert, afterwards created Earl of Pembroke.
Its power, authority, and importance were formerly so great that it gave the rank of baroness to
the abbess. Wilton House stands on the site previously occupied by the once noble Abbey of Wilton;
it is on a fine park at the entrance of the borough town of that name, and is about three miles from
Salisbury. The approach is through a Roman Triumphal Arch, surmounted by an equestrian statue of
Marcus Aurelius. Wilton House was begun in the reign of Henry VIII, and finished in the reign of
Edward VI; the designs for it were by that true architect Holbein. A portion of this edifice was burnt,
and rebuilt from designs by Inigo Jones. It was again altered by James Wyatt, and is now partly
Italian, with a Gothic front. The gardens and pleasure-grounds are extensive.
«The Parterre has lately much improved under the direction of the Right Hon. Sidney Herbert,
the Earl’s brother, who makes Wilton House his frequent residence. The principal walk is a fine
promenade, occupying the centre of the grounds, and another, running parallel to the house, leads to or
from the Temple, and permits a beautiful view of the gigantic Cedars of Wilton.”
Strolling down the long walk, which is continued down the centre of the garden, we remark some
noble chesnut trees, whose heavy foliage are quite an ornament, and, beyond, we arrive at Lady
Pembroke’s garden, laid out in the “chain pattern,’ the “links” of which are small, and when filled
with flowers combine to produce a gay and lively effect. In the centre is a life-size figure of “The
Dancing Fawn,” supported by a handsome pedestal, and, in various suitable places, chastely-executed vases
form elegant receptacles for flowers. But the most attractive to our taste is the beautiful flower-basket,
than which nothing can be more appropriate. At a little distance stands a handsome building,
designated ‘‘Holbein’s Porch,” fronted with pillars and the Pembroke Arms. This is all that remains
of the house designed by Holbein, of which it formed the portico. It contains statuettes, busts, and
other objects of interest, and, from its entrance, there is a pretty peep of the House and the old Clock-
tower, seen between the majestic chesnut trees.
The grounds are extensive and attractive, and a handsome bridge over the rapid Noddre* contributes
largely to their beauty. Passing the bridge, numerous walks conduct the visitor to the various parts of
the grounds, laid out in excellent taste, and adorned with temples, statues, and horticultural ornaments, —
artistic seats are placed in all places where the picturesque may be advantageously studied, and gardens,
of every variety of shape and produce, diversify this noble domain.
* “Tt is the river Noddre, and not the Wily, that passes through the gardens at Wilton, but their streams unite just without the park.”
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HAREWOOD HOUSE,
YORKSHIRE.
THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HON. THE EARL OF HAREWOOD.
Harewoop is situated in the wapentake of Skirack, and west riding of Yorkshire, about nine
miles to the north of Leeds, and eight miles south of Harrowgate. The manor before the Conquest
' was held of the King by three Danish Chieftains, “Tor, Sprot, and Grim,” and shortly afterwards was
granted to Robert de Romeli, whose only daughter, Cecilia, carried it in marriage to Ranulph de
Meschines, Earl of Chester, who thus became Lord of Harewood. From this time till it came into
the possession of the present noble family early in the last century, the property passed through
numerous hands, and the Castle, demolished during the wars of Charles I, the ruins of which still exist,
is supposed to have been erected by Sir William Aldburgh, in the reign of Edward III, on the site
of one built about the year 1160. In the church, which is an ancient and handsome edifice, are
several monuments of the Ruthvens and Redmans, successively lords of the Castle, and of the Gascoignes,
of Gawthorpe adjoming; one of whom, Sir William Gascoigne, who lies buried here, is renowned in
history as the intrepid judge who committed Henry V, when Prince of Wales, to the King’s Bench, for
insulting his official character; which act led the King to ‘thank God for having given him a
judge who could administer, and a son who could obey justice.”
Harewood House stands on a commanding eminence in a park of nearly 1,800 acres, and was erected
about the year 1760. It is a rich specimen of Corinthian architecture, composed of a very fine
description of stone taken from a quarry near the spot. Sir Charles Barry made great improvements
in the original mansion about seventeen. years ago, and there are now but few places of so magnificent
a character in the county. The principal entrance is from the Leeds road, through a_ noble gateway,
and the carriage drive, three quarters of a mile in length, is flanked by numerous remarkably fine
specimens of oak and beech trees.
The gardens and pleasure-grounds were originally laid out by Browne, but since his time they have
undergone extensive alterations, and even uow some parts are being remodelled and enlarged. “The
Parterre,” the subject of our plate, is from a design by Mr Nesfield, and presents a beautiful example
of decorative scenery, enclosed by characteristic shrubbery and the grand leafy masses of ancient woods.
This noble garden, occupying the south side of the house, is approached by handsome flights of steps, and a
terrace “divided by a line of ornamental baskets filled with the choicest and. most effective plants. It is
four hundred and fifty feet in length, and one hundred and thirty feet in width; with beds of various
designs laid down on gravel, box-edgings to the minor and stone borders to the principal walks.
Three fountains of carved stone, by Raymond Smith, add to the general effect of this well-designed
and beautiful. spot. The pleasure-grounds, which extend to a fine lake of thirty acres, contain many
excellent specimens of rhododendrons, auricarias, several choice varieties of Coniferee, and others of a
general character.
The kitchen garden, consisting of about ten acres, is situated some distance from the mansion, and
divided into three parts by double brick walls, about fifteen. feet high, over which are trained numbers
of well-established apricot, peach, pear, cherry, plum, and other fruit trées. The ranges of pine-pits,
vineries, stove, and other houses, are both extensive and of excellent construction, the latter containing
a large and valuable collection of plants. One of the vineries is occupied entirely by a remarkable vine
of the old Tokay class, which was planted in the year 1783, and in 1839 required a house seventy
feet in length by twenty-six feet wide, for the development of its sturdy branches. It is still in
vigorous condition, and produces an extraordinary quantity of fruit annually. Harewood is also celebrated
for the number and variety of its figs, which are grown in pots. Early and most bountiful crops are
secured by this plan, the fruit being ready for table about the middle of March. A very creditable
attention appears to be paid to the management of these gardens, and their magnificent character is a
source of much gratification to great numbers of visitors generously admitted to view the grounds
every Thursday, by permission of the Earl of Harewood.
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NUNEHAM COURTENAY,
OXFORDSHIRE.
THE SEAT OF GEORGE GRANVILLE HARCOURT, ESQUIRE, M.P.
Nunenam COURTENAY, called in Domesday ‘“‘ Nevham,” is situated on the banks of the river Isis,
about six miles from Oxford, in the hundred of Bullington. In the 20th Cong. it was held of the King
by Richard de Curci, and formed an extensive estate, with a mill and fisheries. One Hacon was tenant,
and its Aeanel value, both. then and in the time of Edward the Confessor, was x111 pounds. Enon
Richard de Curci it passed to the ed ers Earls of Devon, surnamed de Vernon, and from them to
Robert de Courtenay, Baron of Okehampton, in 1214. There is no doubt the latter part of its
appellation was derived from this family, however uncertain the origin of the former. Subsequently the
Pollards, of Devon, the Audleys, Robert Wright, Bishop of Lichfield, John Robinson, knighted by
Charles II, in 1660, and the Earl of Wemys, became its possessors, either by marriage or purchase,
Sind from the latter nobleman it was bought, in 1710, by Simon, first Lord Harcourt, of Stanton
Harcourt, co. Oxford, Chancellor of England. The Harcourts are descended from Bernard, a Prince of
Saxony, who attended Rollo in his invasion of Normandy in 876, and to whom was given, with two
other lordships, that of Harcourt in the same kingdom. Errand de Harcourt commanded the Archers of
Val-de-Ruel, at the battle of Hastings, and in the reign of Henry I, Robert, second son of the above
Errand de Harcourt, married Isabel, daughter of Milicent, kinswoman of Adeliza, second wife of
that King, by whom he acquired the estates of Stanton Harcourt, and where his descendants resided
upwards of six centuries. But little of the original mansion remains; the chapel, however, is entire,
and remarkable for the number and magnificence of its family tombs and monuments, and for the small
tower attached to it, where, “In the year 1718, Alexander Pope finished the fifth volume of Homer,”—
an inscription written by Pope himself on a pane of red stained glass, in a window ‘there, and since
removed to Nuneham. There also exists an ancient and curious building—the only example of the kind
in England with the exception of that at Glastonbury—which Plot says, “one may truly call either
a kitchen within a chimney, or a kitchen without one.”
The present noble owner is George Granville Harcourt, Esquire, M.P., whose many improvements
on the estate are of a marked and effective character, and to whom the public are greatly indebted for
the daily privilege of wandering at will about the park and portions of the grounds, and of viewing the
gardens at stated times during the week.
The house stands on the face of a fine sweeping hill, embowered by trees and masses of shrubbery,
which stretch to a considerable distance on either side, and is fronted by verdant slopes of pasture land,
and a fertile meadow, upwards of a mile long, through which the silvery Isis beautifully winds. It is
a commodious, well-built, stone edifice, consisting of a centre and two wings, joined by inflected corridors.
On the succession of the late Archbishop of York to the property, his Grace made considerable
alterations, and greatly improved the mansion. The buildings on the home farm, and the stables, with
many others, were then built, and the gardens much enlarged. The carriage road diverges from the
east front in opposite directions, the boundary lodges being upwards of two miles distant from each
other, the intervening space consisting of the original park, which comprised about twelve hundred acres,
but is now curtailed to about one half by two separate terminal enclosures. It is well stocked. with
fallow deer, and contains some fine and excellent timber, especially oak and elm. The surface is
gently undulating, and its general character richly diversified and beautiful. Near the boundary, on
the summit of a bold hill, is placed the Conduit that formerly stood on Carfax, Oxford, erected by
Otho Nicholson, M.A., of Christ Church, in the year 1617, for the purpose of supplying the different
colleges and halls of Oxford with water from North Hinksey, and presented to Earl Harcourt by the
University in 1787. It is a curious piece of masonry, and traditionally reported to have run with
wine at the Restoration. The view from this point is most beautiful and extended, and there are few
scenes so peculiarly interesting. The towers of Oxford, the classic Isis, and the spires of Abingdon are
distinctly visible, and how thoroughly are their varied associations impressed on the mind of the
antiquary and the scholar!
The gardens, including what are termed the pleasure grounds, consist of upwards of sixty acres, the
original part of which, with the exception of the flower gardens and kitchen garden, were laid out by
the celebrated landscape gardener Brown, and teem with those rich and harmonizing effects of which
nature is so lavish, when, the genius of man, to use a poetical phrase, “Instructs her youth and yet
obeys her laws.”
“The poet Mason’s garden,” designed by himself, is but little altered, and sufficiently testifies to
the skill of that poet, musician, and painter in the art. A path winds from Mason’s garden to the
flower garden. The adjoining grounds contain memorials not only of Mason, but of Whitehead,
Prior, Locke, Cowley, and many other celebrities, with temples and inscriptions to several heroes and
heroines of mythological history. Whitehead, Mason, Pope, Gay, and others enjoyed the friendship
of Earl Harcourt, and, “among the tall ancestral trees” and beautiful scenery of Nuneham, many
delightful hours were passed by them, imparting to its name a memory as unfading as their works, and
an interest of a deep and even solemn character. The church was erected in 1764, at the expense
of Simon Earl Harcourt, after a design of his own, and from many parts of the grounds its appearance
is highly ornamental... The altar-piece is by Mason. There is a prettily laid out and pleasant garden
on the south terrace of the house, from which a partial view of the “cottages” and the adjoining rustic
bridge over the Isis—where the mill mentioned in Domesday probably stood—and eyot is obtained. It
is no unfounded assertion to say that few, if any, ‘“‘Oxonians” ever leave the University without paying
a visit to this delightful place, either by boat or drag, to pass at least one day among its beautiful
scenery, and to enjoy the real pleasures of a gipsy party. From the garden alluded to (Mason’s),
i which there is a remarkable specimen of grotto-work, some winding gravel walks lead through screens
of thriving shrubbery to the rosery (see Plate), a circular, well-arranged plot of ground, formerly
occupied by portions of the home farm, planted with the best sorts of roses, standard and dwarf,
and numerous specimens of bedding and decorative plants. A private road separates this part of
the ground from the kitchen garden, which is ten acres in extent, divided and subdivided by brick
walls, trained with hardy fruit trees in excellent condition. The numerous forcing and other houses are
well built and commodious, and contain choice collections of plants and fruits. The gardens have for
a great number of years been under the management of Mr Bailey, and their well-ordered and _ beautiful
appearance bespeaks the care bestowed upon them. There is also a pinetum, near the high road,
distinguished for the elegance of its specimens and the rich diversity of its general character.
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CASTLE COM PE
WILTSHIRE,
THE SEAT OF G. P. SCROPE, ESQ., M.P.
Ir is well known to every historical student that in the period of our history immediately preceding
the Norman Conquest, the great feudal lords or barons (as they were commonly styled) possessed each a
fortified residence or castle, which castle was termed Capus Baronie, or head lordship. Within this
were comprehended several subordinate manors, held either directly from the baron himself, or under him
by <“ knights’ service.” These sub-feudatories were of knightly rank, and bound to do suit and service
to the baron for their estates—to attend him in war with a certain force, and in peace to pay, in
lieu of such actual service, an annual fine, called a “knight’s fee.” The baron had the wardship of
minors and other important privileges: such a barony was CastLE ComBE.
In the Domesday Survey of Wiltshire, two Vills are mentioned by the names of ‘“‘ Cumbe” and
«“Come” respectively, one of which must refer to Combe Biset, in the south of the county; the
other to Castle Combe: and it is a singular circumstance that several Letters Patent, obtained
in the reigns of Henry VI, Edward IV, and Henry VIII, by the Lords of Castle Combe, for the
purpose of securing certain privileges to the tenants of this manor, as having been a royal demesne at
the time of the Conquest (which deeds are still extant), uniformly recite, as applying to this manor,
the Survey of Domesday, which, from indubitable evidence, must have related not to Castle Combe but
to Combe Biset. This mistake is perhaps to be explained by the little interest which the officers
of Exchequer, who searched the “ Book of Domesday ” for the survey, had in distinguishing between
the two “Combes,” or rather perhaps to their wish to favour the promoters of the search, by finding
the record of ancient demesne which was required. The proofs of the identity of the “Come” of
Domesday, which was not “Royal demesne,” with the manor of Castle “‘Combe,” consist partly in the
accordance of the physical features of the letter with the description there given, but chiefly in the fact
of its having at that time formed one of the twenty-seven manors then possessed by Hunfridus de
Insula, or Humphrey de I-Isle, and which, for the greater part of two centuries afterwards, were
held together, as composing the Barony of Castle Combe, by his direct heirs. It passed by marriage
to the Dunstanvilles, and from them to De Montfort, and from them to’ Lord de Badlesmere, and
afterwards it passed by marriage to Lord John de Tibetot, but who died in 1368, His eldest son,
Robert Lord Tibetot, inherited the estates, who left no son, but three daughters, then respectively of
the ages of six, four, and two years; these were heirs to their father’s vast possessions. In the next
year but one after his death (in the 48 Edward III) the wardship of these infant co-heiresses was
granted by the King for the sum of 1,000 marks to Sir Richard Scrope, Lord of Bolton, then Lord
Treasurer, and from that year [1375] the courts and manors of Castle Combe, as appears from the
Rolls, were held in his name. This nobleman betrothed the three infant heiresses to his own three
sons. The family of Scrope thus became possessed of the barony and lordship of Castle Combe, and
in whose line it still remains, down to the present accomplished owner.
Sir Richard Scrope, Lord of Bolton, the Chancellor to Richard II, who refused to affix the seal of
State to that monarch’s profuse grants to his favourites, or to deliver it to any other person than the
King himself, was the plaintiff in the celebrated trial before the Court of Chivalry, presided over by the
Duke of Gloucester, in 13885 to 1390, for the right to bear a particular escutcheon. The depositions
taken in this suit from companions at arms of the two parties, Lords Scrope and Grosvenor, and their
ancestors, as printed in the work of Sir H. Nicolas, are full of interest, reciting as they do, in
graphic language, out of the mouths of the heroic warriors themselves, the incidents of the numerous
campaigns. The claim of Scrope prevailed, the disputed coat (azure a bend) was adjudged to the
family, by whom it is still borne; while the house of Grosvenor was permitted to wear another, azure a
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garb (wheatsheaf), which the noble Marquess of Westminster still bears.* Strange episode this in the
history of the age of chivalry.
Castle Combe has been in the possession of the noble family of Scrope since the close of the
thirteenth century. The mansion is itself interesting from age, being one of those old manorial edifices
which English people associate with the stability and dignity of their ancestors,—patriarchal homes of
comfort, characteristic of the race that planned and reared them. The lawn is pleasantly decorated with
flowers and shrubs, and, enlivening the scene with tasteful elegance, a fountain throws up its” sparkling
water from a clear and ample basin—(see Plate).
The fountain is executed in the Italian style, as are also the steps of stone which lead to higher
portions of the grounds. Ascending the steps and entering any of the winding walks, which add much
to the interest of the gardens, the beauties of the place come rapidly into view. Stretching to the
summit of the hill are picturesque flower gardens which link terrace to terrace, and through which
wind walks and steps. As we proceed we note the fine grass slope, seventy yards in length, itself a
charming ornament,—that little conservatory on the hill is all that remains of the ancient abbey,—and
a little to the left another relic of the past may be seen, the belfry of an old church, now converted
into a rustic seat.
From the best poimt in the garden the surrounding landscape is really beautiful, standing, as we do,
150 feet above the level of the valley. The brilliant foreground, with its plants and flowers,—the
antique mansion,—the rapid stream which wanders through the valley,—the valley itself, with all its
numerous objects,—present an ensemble which must be attractive to every eye. All these objects
are bound together by a richly-wooded slope on the “opposite side of the valley, forming a natural
amphitheatre, and the gardens and terraces are so arranged as to harmonize with the natural lines of
beauty, by appearing to be actually continuations of them.
Right and left, a succession of beautiful woods diversifies the scene. Over these peeps out the
fine tower of the church, and, between the foliage, glimpses of the village may occasionally be obtained.
To the right, at the upper end of the valley, on the crest of the hill, are the picturesque ruins of
the old Castle. If you would visit these memorials of the past you must ascend the walk through the .
wilderness, a wild and covered pathway, in which nature has been lavish of her brilliant foliage, and
where seats are tastefully placed for the comfort or delight of the lounger.
* See ‘History of Castle Combe,’ by G. P. Scrope, Esq., M.P.
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THE GARDEN ON THE HILL SIDE, CASTLE COMBE
Tih SEAT OF GP. SCROPE FS QO2* M.P.
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PANSHANGER
HERTFORDSHIRE,
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THE SEAT OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL COWPER.
PansHaNGER, originally called Blackmere or Bleakmoor, from its elevated and sterile character,
forms part of the parish of St Andrew, and was granted by Wilham I, at the Conquest, with the
Manor of Sele, to Geoffrey de Bech, one of his followers. In Domesday it is recorded that “ Godfery
Runevile holds of Godfery de Bech one hide of land in Blakemoor, in the Hundred of Hasford. The
arable land is two caracutes in demesne. ‘There is one villain, with two bordars; of meadow land, two
caracutes, with common pasture for cattle, and wood to feed forty hogs. In the time of Edward the
Confessor two of the royal thanes held and had power to sell it. It was then valued at forty
shillings; now at fifteen shillings.” From the above date till the time of Henry VIII, its history is
but imperfectly, if at all known. At that period, however, it appears to have formed part of the
possessions of Gertrude Courtenay, Marchioness of Exeter, upon whose attainder it came to the Crown,
and was afterwards granted by Letters Patent, dated 18th June, 38th Henry VIII, to Nicholas Throckmorton,
Esquire, in fee, together with the Manors of Magdaleyn, Bury, and Westington; of whom it was sub-
sequently purchased by Sir Stephen Slanley, who was Lord Mayor of London, and knighted by Queen
Elizabeth in the 37th year of her reign. On his death it descended to his son Stephen, and continued
in the family until it became vested in two daughters, one of whom, Mary, married to a gentleman named
Hitchcock, bought her sister’s moiety, and had issue a daughter, who carried it in marriage to a Mr Elwes,
a merchant of London, by whom it was sold to William, son a Wilham, first Earl Cowper. This noble
family were owners of Hertford Castle during the reign of the two Charles's, and zealously supported
the royal cause. On the acquirement of the Panshanger property, a name first given to it by Henry
VIII, they lived at Colne Green, a short distance off, which continued to be the principal residence
till about 1801, when it was taken down, and the present handsome Gothic building at Panshanger,
erected as the family seat.
The situation of the house is excellent, and commands an extensive prospect, enlivened by charming
scenery. The river Maran, whose source is in the parish of Kingswalden, flows in a south-westerly
direction through the grounds, and after receiving the waters of a small stream called the Kine, which
rises near Kinneton, and from which the town is named, joins the Lea, near Hertford. The gardens
occupy principally the south front of the house, and are distinguished for picturesque variety and general
beauty of arrangement. The terrace is composed of a series of large beds in Portland stone, with a
pavement of the same material; the long beds being under the windows, and the whole filled with the
richest and most effective geraniums. There are three divisions, reached by steps, and ornamented with
six richly-carved white marble urns. At the west end of the terrace is a small parterre, enclosed by a
Gothic balustrade, containing statues and carved seats, leading up a flight of steps to the Dairy, which
occupies a corner of the Italian garden. This building is of a dome-like form supported by massive
pines, over which some handsome climbing plants luxuriate, and form a cool and refreshing canopy.
The interior is richly decorated, and of a description far superior to what might be expected from the
character of the edifice.
The Italian Garden is of considerable extent, elegant in design, and arranged with much judgment
and taste. The beds are principally in wrought Portland stone, of various shapes and dimensions, out
of which rise gorgeous clusters of bloom. At the termination of a broad gravel walk, down the centre,
stands the Conservatory, and a low stone wall, adorned with numerous regularly placed vases, forms the
boundary in another direction. Antique vases and rustic flower-stands are distributed at favourable
intervals in different parts of the garden, and contribute to its descriptive character. We next come to
the American garden, which is devoted chiefly to characteristic plants, arranged in the same manner as
flowers, in ribbon borders; each line being formed of a distinct colour, orange, pink, purple, &c., and
the background filled up. with masses of remarkably fine rhododendrons. The effect produced by this
arrangement, from the number of plants used, is particularly striking and novel, and forms an example
which might be followed to advantage in many other gardens. When these plants have bloomed, the
usual plans for the continuation of its floral aspect are followed, and numerous raised baskets of rustic
desion filled with the gayest specimens are also placed in different parts of the garden. On the lawn
stands the “Great Oak,” a title it bore so far back as 1709, and, from its healthy, vigorous appearance,
there is every probability of its continuing to flourish through many succeeding generations. Some few
years since, from the want of proper support, one of the lower limbs of this extraordinary tree fell off,
and produced more than a load of timber. Recently the soil on one side, which is a deep, rich loam,
sunk in a remarkable manner to the depth of forty feet; still the old tree flourishes on, its sturdy
branches covering a surface upwards of one hundred yards in circumference, and its hale green crown
forming a proud monument of nature, gilded by the sun’s departing rays in the stern gray nakedness of
winter, and the gorgeous beauty of the summer’s prime. This garden contains also a very fine specimen
of the Taxodium sempervirens.
The walks in the woods within the iron fence are both numerous and extensive. Some lead by the
north front of the house to the Box Garden, a characteristic spot laid down from designs by «« Anne,
Countess. Cowper,’ whose initials, various scrolls, Roman eagles, and other ornamental devices, form the
nucleus of its elegant and effective arrangement. The centre is occupied by a circular fountain, the
basin being supported by dolphins, from which numerous walks diverge, the intermediate spaces being filled
with variegated gravel. There are also several vases, urns, and statues of antique design, o’ershadowed
as it were by some excellent examples of fir and pine trees, and two remarkably fine specimens of
Cedrus deodara.
These gardens are upwards of fifty acres in extent, and afford a great variety of picturesque and
charming scenery. The situation is very fine and commanding, and the whole district a succession of
hill and dale, where the dark green woods wave and nestle in the evening breeze, and the silvery stream
meanders on its course through fertile meadows towards that grand mysterious ocean where every river
meets.
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