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GAZETTE OF FASHION,

CUTTING EOOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

VatfoM tit )^ibft fiKAttt to Kftr ^iMk,
No.8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

SYSTEM FOR PRODUCING LADIES'
RIDING-TROUSEES.

DuOBAlf 11,

Tronsen being now so anirersaUy adopt«d by
ladies when Uking equestrian exercise, a syatem
for producing this garment cannot bat be nsefol
to many of our readers; ne hare, therefore, selected
tlie present period as a fitting time for offering a
plan to the trade, combining umplioity of principle
with facility for drafting.

As tailors have not the same facilitiea for taking
the difierent measures from which to draft their pat-
terns for ladia^ trousers, we are neoessarily obliged
to adopt some basis as a sabttitnte, and which is
found by practice to ensm« lomelhiiig approaching to
a satisfactory resnlt. We are aware that there may
be excepti<ms &om the standard we hare adopted,
and that certun deriatknu may be required for
differences in shape; still, ws eoafidently offer the
■yatem as a saft guide in the majority of cases, and

to which the roles we have framed will satisfiKtorily
apply. We retain onr prlxkciple of eatablishing a
" plumb-line," from which to mark out the rarions
proportions of the toauf-maoRuv, which we take as
onr bans, instead of the seat-measure and waist-
meaanre together, as in our system for men's trousers,
pablished in the several editions of oar work, the
" Complete Guide to Practical Catting." Although
we have adopted the style of trousers generally
Euhionable at the present time, yet, as in all our
systems, our plan is not confined to any one par^-
cular shape, but may be carried out with equal
facility for one as for any other ibrm, according to
the preruling taste of the day.

Draw the line A C, which wo oonstitute our
" plumb-] ine." Mark on it, at B, from A, 11 inches,
which we find the average height necessary upwards
for a woman of the^medium height ; and at C, the
measure taken from the hip to the length required
for the trousers, a little above the sole fif the boot_
Draw lines square with these three points. Mark
from A to D, one-fourth of the waist, and from A U

!KSS9«3»-

-*esSS3S(^9«a«-

^b^

GAZETTE OP PASfflON.

[Mat 1, 1869

E, the same proportion. From B to F, msrk ]»If
the waist-measnre; at G, half the waist from B; jmd
at H, one inch more than two-thirds. At I, mark
from Oy one inch less than half the width «f trouiera
over the foot ; and from I to K — to determine tiie
width of the top-side— half an inch less than ^bo. half
width of the bottom of the trousers. Draw a line
from I to G, and form the leg-seam from H, gra-
dually continuing the curve to the straight line
I G, about half the di^aoce between the Wo points,
and which will usuafllj determine l^e position of the
knee.

Draw a stmjght line £r*m F to K, and form the
side-seam from. E, adding on whatever amount of
round may be considered necessary according to the
conception of the figure, and Bpriog out the under-
side from K to the remainder of the measure or
fitthion. Three-quarters of an inoh if an mwengi^
quantity to add beyond the point F.

To form liie feik, draw a line from D to L,
which point is found at 1 inch from G, towards B.
Mark from L to M for the hollow, 2 inches, and
form the fork from the line D L, through M, to H.
For length of seat, mark up from A to O, one-fourth
of tbe waist, and fbzm tike top of the senH frtm £,
through Ot k> P. Make the width of Oie uader-eide
at top about 2 inohts more than half the wmiat-
aeaame, £ar fulness; dxsaw a Hue from P to H, and
add OB a TQundi m ahowm on the damgnm, aoftening
it off a tttftle at the point of the kg-eeam. Lo^rer

ike topHsde at front, from D to N, 1 inch.

The waistband is about an inch wide, and per-
frctly stcaig^t. llie tc^>-«de should be hoUowed
for the instep, and the undor-eide rounded for the
heeL

fihould tibe lady for n^om the fitter is producing
a pattern be moBe fully derdk^ied than the average,
an additional quantity of roond may be added on
at the flide«aeam, and more frdness be allowed in
tbe width of the under-aide, from £ to P. The dis-
tance from B to H can also be increased, bnt the
pomts G and L shonld still nm«B at the sane rela-
tive plaoes as described in the systeai.

BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION

^GR TEE HELIEF OF AGED AND INFIBM

TOURNEYMEN-TAILOES.

The TmBTT-FiBST AmnvERSAT of this charitable
3[nstitu^oa was celebrated on the 21st ult., in the
customary manner, by a dinner at tbe Freemasons'
Tavern, on which occasion Captain the Hon. B. W.
Qrosrenor, M.P., prended.

To say tbat the eirtefiifimn ent prorided by the
company, imder the superintendence of their zealous
Manager, Mr. C. Gosden, was wliat slight only be
expected, and that it contributed to the flow of
charity and spirits which are supposed to follow a
liberal amount of the good things enjoyed on such
occasions, would be mere waste of words and time of
our xeadenu The viusical part of the erening's
amusement, imder the skilfrd management of Mr.
Wilhelm Ganz, who had ensored a satis&otory result
by the talented artUtes he had collected round him,
was as complete as the most frstidious connoissmn
could possibly have desired as an accompaniment to
their post-prandial state of bliss, promoted by the
good cheer placed before them.

The honourable Chairman, in proposing the toast
of the evening, ^ Long existence and prosperity to
the Benevolent Institutba for the Relief of Aged and
Infirm Journeymen-Tailors,'* was exceedingly happy
in the remarks be made in refi»eace to the baasits
sooh institutions bad the opportunity of iwnferrii|g
on those mesftbers of the partioular touudieB of Ia-
dustry who, by old age or infirmi)^, ware no loiter
able to earn their liviag, and, but for the duoi^
iridch the frmds of these societies, aooumnlated 1^
the generosity of their suppocteia and benefootons,
would become burdens on their friends— generally
but ill able to ^^Mue from their own scanty hoards—
or have to appeal to the paroohial reliel^ on which,
in common with otherSy they had a claim.

Hie giftllant ^offtain fllliid^, in pleasii^ tenua^ to
tike satisfaotion he had dersrad from his visit to the
commodious i^msboiises erected for the aooommftda-
tion of tiie fortuaate candidates at tbe various ^eo-
tioas, and paid a well-merited tribute to the excdlesaa
of the acraogements of the astAlishment in ail ita .

^^5^

1,IM».]

GAZETTB OF FASHKNf •

m4^ cuiMraf|F igttcii6 106 net of t3i6 recent Btrsc in the
vase I DQTy itt oommon tnsn orfBrjr u i wpMHionapp <juir>
MSffy iw oooM but' regvet tm cxrctonstaxxoeBi and the
MHfuo^VGl poKcy wMcit ioa to its' being pntfnto fbroey
8Bd wi6 Biiflev]r xn wMcn so xnsnjr persons wero tzn-
wffiiBgljT iufnilfcid. The noiUiy ClMdnBftn took ex*
•cplion to the^lsMer psrt of Htde 11 of iiie bje^-Isws
oi wo Socwijy waMk xeqvires mat ft member elected
ft pensioner sbail resifc in iSio ftsjlnm, when &ere is
tooBky fton be aflowea 9b* per* weelt ftnd ooans^ ftnd
any penstooer dfecHiifng to radde m the ftsjlnmi tittBXL
tBefenpen fonftiltdl claim to ti!te benefits that accnxed
to him npoB osb election* We remexE^EyeT) on ft pre-
TWUB oeeaaieny ivtien tte fete Atdermsn Hunter pre- *
sned at the auBivef'saijf d&oneri dnmig~ the year he
heiflt ttw-. Qtic CSuMTy tu the coui'se of his euecllve
qpeeeh, g»?e some goo8 and: practical advice to tiie
snppeftcsv oz uns lusuuutoni m lecomuieucnng cnem
not tci expend too- large ft portion of ^eirirmds in
erecting or enlarging asylums for l3te reception of
successful candidates, but mt be r to accord the pen-
sions so as to allow of the recipients remaining with
their ^Etmilies, and~ enjoying the comforts and atten-
tion which they might naturalfy expect £rom the
a&otiott their mlatm ties^ would «igeoder. As he
MBMUckodi tiM addition macfe to the gea^nd ftrndt^ and
the oevtainty with whidi it was paid» wonld, in most
casesy ensure A larger anwttit of coittAvt to all partMi
as ft oertain portim^ of the toida must otherwise
nscigesarny be aipsiuM on l&ebuili&ags required^
liie aooonmodatiou <tf the pensioners.

On the otbsr hand, Oiiplain Grosvenor attudjad^
witL oonsiderablB teling, to- the soene- presented i»
the infirmary of die. Institafeibn, where s number of
aged ftnd feeble, men, wheM fiite must h»ve been
death or tiie woxkfaouse, were now oaveftdly tended,
and kept in every eomibst; The Chainnan*s address
and appeal to the bsnevolenee of tbe» c ompany , on
kaltatf of the fiiods of tlM* charity^ we» leosiTod wil&-
lond apj^Buse^

The wMqK Bresisbttt of the Institution^ Mr.
MfCMlan, ii> iropoMg^ the heaM o€ their ra^eeted
GbaMman^ pftiil ^higUyiiSttplitteBtary tribute ti ^
kisuBiessL ift praaidlu^^ ob diat oocasian, and oom^
ia ^owingrt8aw.e» the effioient manner in

which he had dissharged tbe dntiee diirolying upon
him in virtue of his office. To those who know the
interest the highly respected President takes in the
weBhre of the Society, to which he devotee so much
of his time and abilities, the able ftnd persuasive
manner in which he advocated its claims on the
more fortunate members of our trade, as to the sup-
port fh>m the journeymen themselves, in common
charity to their fellow-workmen, would not take any
one present by surprise, as the constant perseverance
and self-devotion shown by Mr. M'Callan are patent
toalL

The result of the appeftl to the generosity of the
persons present was as well as might be expected,
and nearly up to the average amount collected on
such occasions.

It is but right, in justice to l£e members of our
trade, to notice a serious error in the account of
these proceedings published in the TmeSj in which
the reporter states that the collection was consider-
ably below fbrmer sums, and attributing the circum-
stance to the continuance of an ill feeling on the
part of the masters towardii the journeymen, as a
body, for the injury they inflicted on them by the
strike. He gives the diflerence as something Eke
£1000; but we think he would have to go back to
several years, as well as to some special occasion,
when such an amount was contributed at an anni-
versary dinner to tlie friend of the Institution. On
reftrring to the accounts of several years, we are
glad to find that tiie difference is insignificant, as it
proves that the welfare of the charity still engages
tite attention and consideration of the trade gene-
rally. We, however, cannot but regret that so little
sympathy is Mt by the journeymen, as shown by ^e
very small sum contributed by them, although their
annual subscription is fixed at a very low rate, and
they mi^ eventuatty become candidates for the pen-
sions granted.

There was an average number ofsupporters of the
diarity present, and the dtflibrent toasts incidental on
the occasion, were proposed and' received wi^ tike
uftmcmt good' fbellng.

>M*WM%tMMw««iti«WI»i

matmm'imm

^^■w

-^"6^

^9^

6AZETTS OF FASHION.

[ILlt 1, 1869

NEW EVENmO-DBESS.

In the March number of ihe Gazettb of Fashion,
we noticed an attempt by a member of our trade to
introduce a substitute for the style of evening-dress
which is generally worn, and also to replace cloth by
some more appropriate and richer article. We de-
scribed the idea at length, and gave full particulars
of the details. However careful we might have been
to endeavour to convey an accurate idea of the dress
to the minds of our readers, we felt that we could
hardly hope to enable them fully to realize the ele-
gant appearance effected by the introduction of black
velvet for evening-dress; and consequently, in our
desire to do ample justice to the taste of the house to
whom the merit of this alteration is justly due, we
had a special plate prepared by our artists, illus-
trating the new dress, and which we now publish,
for the benefit of our readers generally; as also give
patterns in diagram of the coat and waistcoat

It will be seen £rom the patterns, and from the two
figures on the plate, that the coat is cut somewhat in
the style of the ordinary form of dress-coat, and is
made with a rolling collar to turn very low. There
is, however, a marked difference in the shape of the
skirt at the top of the front-edge. Instead of the
unsightly and useless narrow strap, the firont of the
skirt is continued from the top in a slanting direction
— ^as in the style of the skirt of a court-dress waist-
coat — to a certain length, and then cut in and sloped
upwards, instead of being in a straight line ; about
the same length as the part cut off, and the remainder
of the skirt much in the fiuhion of an ordinary skirt.
The roll is cut on to the front of the forepart

The coat is made of black silk velvet, or of black
velveteen in a fine quality, and lined with white silk.
The roll and collar are foced with black satin, and
there are cuffs of the same material. Cut steel
buttons impart an effective appearance with velvet.
There are two on each forepart, below the bottom of
the roll, which is long; one at each hip, and one in
each cuff. Black figured silk buttons can be sub-
stituted, if the effect of steel buttons be too striking.
The waistcoat is of black velvet or satin, and also
with steel buttons. It is cut without a collar, and
with small skirts at firont.

The trousers are of black velvet or velveteen, and
have a bold silk cord down the side^-seams. The
coat and waistcoat are edged with a silk cord of a
smaller size. The ensemble of the dress is complete
by the addition of frills and ruffles to the dress-shirt,
and patent leather shoes witli steel buckles. Forefflict
in a drawing-room, it can easily be imagined what a
decided advantage vekei would have over doth,
especially black doth ; and, as bdng in better keeping
with the rich and degant taileUea of the fiur sex, we
think there can scarcely be a difference of opinion as
to the qualifications it possesses to entitle it to the
preference. We are glad to find that not only in this
country a stimulus has evidently been given to an
•investigation and remodelling of evening-dress for
gentlemen, but that the subject has also occupied the
attention of tailors, and others, in the prindpal
capitals of the Continent, and it would lead one to
imagine that some dedded change is about to be
effected at least in the style of dress worn by gentle*
men in the evening.

mvtiMiwa*

M«»MI«**««tt«MMI

THE NEW COURT-DEESS.

FURTHEB AlTEBATIOK.

In consequence of the black silk shoulderAxit
showing itself across the front of the shirt, through
the waistcoat opening very low, it is ordered to be
replaced by a black silk tMMt-bdt, with a firog.

As a report has been in circulation that an altera-
tion had been made to the cocked hat, by the addi-
tion of a gold tassd at each point, we b^ to inform
our readers that the description we puUished of the
make of the hat, in the April number of our work, is
strictiy correct in all its details, and that the altera-
tion referred to has not been ordered.

Our readers will have learnt that the new Court-
dress originated with the cdebrated hcmse, H. Poole
and Co., of Saville Bow, and that in appreciation of
the taste displayed in the general appearance of the
costume. Her Majesty had been pleased to honour
that firm by appointing it Tailors to the Queen.

Compared with the old form of Court-dress, there
can be no doubt oi the improvement in the shi^ of
the new one just ordered to be worn, as well as in
the elegant effectof the embroidecy. Wecanreadily

^S^

^e^e^

^5^

-eO^

May 1, 1869.]

GAZBTTfi OF FASHION.

nndentaiid the caution xiecessaij to be diaplayed in
introducing any ornament, and that the narrow line
of emfaroiderj— howerer modest in appearance — vraa
still a daring attempt on the part of the concoctors of
the dreasy to whom erery merit is due for their exer-
ticms. We are, however, inclined to think that it is
but a stepping-stone to a more liberal amount of
ornamentation; and that, in time, we may see the
edging substituted by some pleasing device in em-
broidery upon collar, cufi, and flaps.

This would, in our opinion, be a decided improve-
ment, and remove the Hvery character which, to a
certain extent, it now possesses. The question of
increased expense would be easily got over; as, for a
dress which need not be very frequently renewed,
and which would g^ve a civilian the opportunity of
maViiig a better display at foreign Courts than his
ordinjuy evening-dress would admit of, by the side
of so many varieties of uniibrms and official dresses,
few gentlemen would pay any attention to the trifling
diffiarenoe in cost, compared with the effect.

ON THE MONOTONY OF THE PKESENT
STYLE OF DKESS.

A contemporary lately inserted in one of the
numbers of his work an article which recently
appeared in one of the Parisian journals, on the
unsatisfactory diaracter of the dress worn by men
at the present time; as he was so struck with the
appropriateness of the writer's remarks bearing on
this subject, and also as showing the sympathy
existing between some of the members of the press,
and many of the leading houses in our trade, on the
desirability of some alteration being effected in the
male costume for evening wear.

The present period appears to be exceedingly
favourable for promulgating the writer's ideas, as at
least a portion of the public is more or less occupied
with, the recent alterations in dress, and takes a cer-
tain interest in matters afiecting the appearance
which they produce as a component part of society.

The difiexent journals whose province is more
especially to treat on matters connected with the
higher circles of society, have for some time past

rather mysteriously alluded to a revolution which
those who, privileged, by their taste and position in
high life, to be the arbiters of &shion, were preparing
to cany out in our dress.

'' It appears that ' la JUur dcB pais * (for which we
can find no better words to express the meaning of
in English than a select number of the leaders of the
haut torij whose acknowledged taste in dress and
other matters gives to their opinion a certain weight
and importance) has already held several meetings to
discuss this important question, and to decide upon
the shape and colour of the coats which it contem-
plated introducing as a substitute for those now
worn. If I may attach any credit to the discrete
journals which seem to confound these frivolities with
the secrets of the State, the revolution is decided
upon as to principle, but it is not yet quite deter-
mined what the new costume shall be which is to be
adopted.

'* I do not think I shall be guilty of committing
an indiscretion in divulging the mysteries of a con-
spira<^ directed in a great measure against our
monotonous black coat, which, like many other things,
is indebted for its continued existence to its im-
perfection.

'' We frequently hear the remark, ' How is it that
the French nation, which fer so long a period daszled
the world by the richness, the splendour, and the
variety of its national costume, could possibly, in the
progress of time, have so degenerated as to assiunc
that fusty, puritanical, and severe appearance, so
little in harmony with the brilliancy of her wit, or
the liveliness of her character, which the uniformity
of a black coat gives to every one— to the child as to
the old man, to the luAitmi of the ball-room as to the
follower at a fhneral V

'< If the well-dressing men of the eighteenth cen-
tury had been told that some day their descendants
would exchange their elegant and brilliant costume
for this piece of black cloth, devoid of all ornament,
they would naturally have protested against this
error in feshion, this contempt for colour, this de-
struction of the picturesque.

^' And yet this is what we have come to by d^;rees.
Lace, ribbons, braid, and the various other embel-
lishments of dress, have in their turn been banished

-fe^s

^9^

^eQ^

^^^

eAZRTTB OF PAfiHION.

[lUrUiaM.

to give ^a«e ta a serere Bfejk oi dsota, wkicb liw
impartad to us all moro tbe character of the meaibecs
of a religioua body, or of sa inaDy penitenfai aMaodiog
a religious ceremony. Tbe bright lights h»re bean
eztiDgoished to make room for the gloomy shadows
with which our tailors surriHmd us.

'^ In. OHT drawiag-rQOiB% where ey^ry gefitlewMm is
compelled to assume a black coat, the ugUaess of
our dress is perhaps not so perceptible. It is only
at the theatre that its meanness becomes palpal^e;
£at thflDi when we see the handsome dress worn by
our aneeetors so efieotiyely represttited on the stage,
we cannot but be impressed with the unfiurourable
contrast wlddi we of the present da^ present

'' I oaa easily ooneeiYe the possibility <d high-
bom ladies becoming ^lasnoured of gaUants decked
in such beanttfiil plumage aa the Duke of Bichcliea
and the Chevaliec d!Aubigny wear iik the piece en-
titled ' Mademoiselle de Belle-Isle ' — all dazzling with
lace, velvet, and si^; but I» at the same time^ admit
that I can readily pardon the cddness widi which, in
our time, a young lady receives the gentlemaa who
has been sheeted as her fioture husband, when, to sat
off the 'devil's beauty' — the only one which a
young man can ever possess — this unfortunate indi-
vidual makes hie afqpeaia&oe before her in a tight-
fitting blaek ceat, waiatcoat to matd»» a jdaio Aait,
and a white ottvat^ whi^ ia scaccelj worth five-
pence. Thia pretmler to the Uys hand, wero he
aa enameuKd aa Wfiorther, aa gracefiil aa the cde^
teited daneor, Yestds, and aa witty ae Bivarol, his
passion^ his dipgance^and his wit would be neutralized
by the hideous fi?i|^»ery in ynhieh he ia ci^liged to
8ua»>und them. I need not notice the. inevitable
Gonfiifiion which tiiia idenllesa umfonnity of dress
causes at every moment, and whicb doee ns^ aUew us to
distinguish whethei! we are m the peesenee of a poet,
a bacrister, a philosopher^ a dixster, a banker^ an in-
ventor, or awailer from the GBand Hotet^a confb-
sion to which all ue eoipoaed who do not hold offices
entitliag them. Ui a unifonn. or an. effioial dlMBSh

"It would be difiloult to realiae the amount oaf
mischief which this blindness and ^lie stagnaHon of
faahleahave cauaed to the present geoerati^fc. Ladies
not meetiag ia those wbo hover about them with
Ibat attention to theiz peisoeeji appearaace, ortfuit

effect whidi they aie justified in ezpoalinf, diresiad
their thoughts to ether chaiwels» audi aa boeka and
piotuie% ia iiduUi they fonid dnw dMonuqg ptriaees,
those icresiwtible heroes, whish see by no lesnes the
mere finudes of tlie brun of ro man ce rs andb poets,
but aotnally the indispcaaable rsalitiss to tiiat phase
oi youtk whick belongs to tentenesa and passion,
as the sDOOBeding phases cf life should betong to
ezpesrieaee and reason.

'' This reflection ia so perfectly tmey tiiat it has
he^i generally remarked, diet it^ is dniing tiie period
of tbe carnival tiiat the asntknaite of affeefeioa are
engendered and marriagee ananged. The reason
is accounted for by tbe cimnm st a BeB» that ia the
costumi^baUs whidi are given in the adnat wcrid,
an oj^xuiunity is affittdedte the young nea to lay
aside for the time their V^ ft pit! biadc eoat^ and pvt
on fimoy cbresses whsck ast off iAmt penwnal appear
aneeto better adiw:tfage^

^As to the effect Qtt the line Arts,. aapeiayli&gaDd
sculpture, I will net allude to the wretched condition
in which our costume has plunged them. They can
only weep at that falling off in taste which appears
to defy them to reproduce us as we are, and they
prefer to abstain altogether from the attempt, rather
than to lend themselves to hand down to posterity
such caricatures.

''Artists, howev^ ha^Fe been fbund suffio^nMy
courageous to look ibese difficulttee in tbe fboe.
David of Angers cast in bronze the statue of Mettiiieu
of Dombasle at Nancy, his native town; and he has
actually well represented kt metal the< long Jfre^-
coat, readiing to tbe ankles, and trousers and straps^
which formed part of hie ordinary costume*

'' If tbe arbiters of tehien ever discussed an im*
portent question^ it certainly is tiiat whieh at the
present moment engages their attention, and wM^ it
is to be hoped they waU adhre to Ac sadsfiictaefr of
all parties.

'' I^ howcnrer, I may attach any iBspoctence to
rumotusy it weuld appear that their delibeiattCBS
would net result for the present in anj^ very great
change. The supporters ef ike style as at ps sss nl
wami te persuade th«r oppenents te^ liaut tiieir
QperatioBs to ibe mere subelitiitioff oT a blue*
ooat wi& gilt buttons foe tbe- jikim mi ugly bkak^

^5^

^9^

MiT 1, U09.]

QAZ&TTE OT FASmON.

woii^ aad to r^Iaoe Ab black doth waistcoat by one
made d ifiute Batm. They axe willing to agree to
the adoptKm of a koe frill ai^ mffles to the shirt,
hot HMike a veaolnte atand against the ai^titntion
of bieeohes &T trooien. This is, koweraty some-
thine flaiaed.

''The adfocata among the higher ciides for a
vefoxm, ase dispoeed to carry their i^ans to a xnooh
greater length, and to proceed at oooe to work.
Among other ang g sa jiops; they go to the extent of
geco mm eading the adc^tion of the vaxioas coburs
whidi were isxtmaAy worn by oar anceston, eq>e-
cially Ait more dalioate riiadea. Some of the oon-
dave, aozioas to give greater atcength to Iheir
ooonael by actual p ca c t i c e, determined to adopt
coals of aome of these startling colonn at the xp-
poaching balls, with pdished sted buttons and a
mass of lace.

'' l^lore, infloeDcad TMrtnrally by personal interest,
which one can aasilf understand, are qnito diqxwed
to second this morement; and, as a proof of their
good sense, are already preparing some new designs
and styles of dress, which we hear are of the most
tasteful character, and it is said that they may
be expected to mske their appearance at the ap-
proaching Loa^chaispe.

^ So that Ihe ladies will no longer monopdiae the
character for rich failtfWsj, or exdosively endiant us
by their charming metamorphosis, as we shall be
ablA to prove to them that we have not quite lost the
ait of dressiiig m good taste, and so as to set our
figures off to the best advantage. We shall adopt
shades as dioice as the odours in ihdr dresses, and
when we walta with them, we shall no longer be
reproached with depnviag them of their brilliancy
by the contact with certain gaimei^ without a
same, which we wear on every occasion, whether at
a balj or at a funeral — at our dub, or at the opera.

''Fh»n certain evente whidi have latdy taken
place in England, a similar idea would appear to
prevail in that eauntry in nsspect of ihe neoessitj for
a change in dress ftr gaaitlemen, and we nottoe with
aome httk smrpaiaa the penniasion now granted to
fsntleman to «i9sar at Har Miy'esty'a Me$ in

In moming-KMMits, we have ilkEUtiated^ on com ef
our plates, two excellent styles^ which will be vary
fashionable during the prsssnt and ap proaching

That represented on the fimt figure ia cut raifar
long in the waist, and moderately long in the akirt
for the character (^ coat. The side seems are tder**
ably curved, and the hip-buttons are about 8^ inohea
apart. The back is vdde aarom to the deenre-head,
and the backHKsye cut rather broad. The fir<mt is
single-breasted, and the turn, which is broad, ia made
to extend to the very bottom of the forepart. The
lapd, however, is bat small, and the oollar-end
narrow in proportioD. There ara four holes and
buttons at frcmt. The skirt is made to run off with
the forepart, but is rather broad at the bottom, and
the comer rounded off. The ateemeeaigr to the ana,
and with a deep round cuff. The edges are boand
narrow with braid, and fincy buttons are usua%
worn. The fimcy makes of aoatiag in odours are
much patronised for thia form of coat^ and have a
smart appelu:ance when niody put tegether.

The waistcoat to harmoniae with this style d* coat,
is also single breasted, to button up modesmtdy h]|^
but the turn rather broad ia propoitioB, although
short The bottom of the front-edge ia cut off a little
fixNoa the lower butUm.

The other style of coat is v«ry difierantia dnracter,
but equally becoming. It is made with a bold roll-
collar, but not to turn low down. There are but
three holes and buttons. The skiit is full, and cut
to reach forward on the kg. There are deep flaps in
the waist-seam, with podcate tmder« The sieeve is
much in the style and propcrtioBs of that we have
deacribed on the other figure. The edges are either
tuned in and stitohed, er bound narrow, according
to the make of the artide made up. Pkia goods are
preferred for this style.

Morning-trousers are still cut ratlMr straight to
the leg, but to fUl ftedy over the boot Bocdersare
very generally worn.

We represfent another style of coat or jacket fiir
morning wear, on one of the %ure8 on aaodicr jdate.
Itiacut in the form of a loangc jarlrst, but double-
breasted. The turn is loag and broad, and the lapd
moderate in width, with foar hdeswodDed in it It

^b^

^^9^-

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[Mat 1, 1869.

01$ diort, and tke back only moderate in width, with
a short opening at the bottom. Easy sleore, plain
at'the hand. Collar low and narrow.

Fancy angolas and coatingSi in rather striking pat-
terns, are made up in this style of coat, and the
trousers may correspond. The edges are inrari-
al^ly tamed in and stitched when large patterns
are employed.

A very pretty and effective style of out-door
jacket is shown on the figure of a lady in-
troduced on this plate. It is cut somewhat like
the body of a habit, but it springs out below the
hollow of the waist on to the hips, and a small skirt
cut on. The forepart has a small lapel cut on at
front, at the top, but it is cut off from the single hole
and button which are tiaed, so as to display a cloth
<»r^[ailting waistcoat worn underneath, which is made
to button up to the throat, and is cut rather pointed
at front The front of the jacket is tastefully
trimmed with double loops graduated in length, and
formed of a full-sized cord or braid, with fancy
buttons at the back. There are pointed 'flaps, with
poekets under. The sleeve is but easy to the arm,
and finished with a round cuff, but carried up to a
point at the hind-arm-eeam, and with four buttons
sewn on it. The lapels, flaps, and cufis may be
made of white cashmere, with a narrow black brud
6ewn a little distance fixmi the edge for effect

REVIEW OF PARISIAN FASHIONS.

From the remarks made by one of our contem-
poraries, it would appear that the weather in Paris,
as in this country, has not been favourable for the
encouragement of any novelties in out-door di^ss.
Judging from the specimens shown to the writer by
the leading honscs in our line in the French capital,
it would appear that the difference in the several
garments made for the season consists rather in the
pattern and in the cokmn of the articles, than in the
shape.

Dress-coats and frock-coats remain much in the
style which was fiishionable during the winter; and,
as they are considered garments specially devoted to
be worn on ceremonious occasions, they do not admit

so readily of any decided change in charaeter or
detail in a short time. Black is usually made up.

Both ft>rms of coats are worn with broad lapds,
and to turn low; there are, however, some few
houses who have the turn made to the third h<de
only, so that there are two in the turn instead of
four. The skirts of dress-coats are cut very short,
and barely to reach to the knee. Some trades regu-
late the length by the hand as it hangs stnught.

Dress-coats and frock-coats are made up much in
the same style. The edges are either made i:^ raw
and stitched, or turned in; while some have them
turned in and felled only, without any stitching.

Some frock-coats and dress-coats are furnished
with a narrow round or flat cord, sewn on the edge.
This s^le is very difiicult, and takes too long a time
to make up nicely; consequently, but few trades
patronize it.

The most itylUh dresa-^oati are made up m bhej of
a medmm ehade^ with Jitney gilt tmUons,

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.
Plates 1896 and 1897.

Diagrams 1, 2, 4, 6, and 8, afe the pattern of the
new form of coat for evening-dresa, which is desired
to be introduced as a substitute for the style now
usually worn.

Diagram 8, is tlie pattern of a pair of dress-trousers.

Diagrams 5 and 7, are the pattern of a dress-
waistcoat, to form part of the dress suit, and to cor-
respond with the shape shown on the illustration of
the new evening-dress, represented on one of tiie
plates issued with the present number.

Diagrams 9, 10, 12, and 18, are the pattern of a
double-breasted lounge-jacket, one of the prevailing
styles of the season.

Diagram 11, is the pattern of pair of riding-
trousers for ladies, the system for producing whidi
forms part of the contents of the current number.
The shaded portion r e p resents the he^ht to which
cloth bottoms would be carried, when the other part
of the trousers is made of chamois leather. The
details of make and style were published in the
April number, when describing ladies* riding-habits.

9^d*

:^x^^aa;^3^^

©A^lE'inriE ®IF IFiiSIHIIKDKr

BT EDWUID imnSTER AMD SON.

■»

May.l*.M869. GAZETTE OF FASHION. Plate. 1396

^/!

'Hj

^'H'i

Duv,6

.^^^^^^^^

JlD

E C Minuter.

May P.*1869. GAZETTE OF FASHION .

Plate,1397.

\i\ 3>i 2^

13 5i

C K

MBS3s£>*-

-e«Sg^B^9e9»-

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

AMD

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

»T

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

Sillon ana »>tll iKatiH la Hn iKatMIc,
No. 8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

Jdhe 1, 1869.

Vtit eclrrtir Stryoisilorji.

" A gttbtrer itnd diipowr of oth*r men'* «nfr."— WeUam.

I OF THE "OAZETTB OF FA8HI0M.

Sib,

Several of m; professional friends have recom-
mended me to submit mj pitta of cntting to yoor
notice, assnring me that, from your customary libe-
rality towards any member of the trade, I might at
least depend upon a fevoorable reception of my
production, if eren you might not consider it of
sufficient merit to induce y<m to offer it to your
readers, dirough tlie medium of your pages. Avail-
ing myself of a little leisure at the present moment,
I forward my system for your inspection, and shall
be more than amply rewarded for the little trouble
it bos gJTen me, if yon should favonr me by finding
room for It in your valnabte magazine.

As a goanntee t» your readers for the correctness
\ ) of my method, I may inform you that I have cut by
I ^ it for several years, and invariably found it pracdoal

Hesiisa*-

and certain in its results. Of conrse, I do not
pretend to say that it is perfect, or that it does away
with the necessi^ for exercising one's judgment in
casesofdisproportion, or when cutting for awkwardly
made figures. A plan which would of itself provide
for all such cases, has not yet— in my opinion — been
discovered. My system requires deviations to meet
certun difficulties which may arise in practice ; but,
for well-made men, I have no hesitation in asserting
that it may be tried with confidence, judging from
my own experience in practice.

I cut all kinds of coats by it, whether fitting or
looqe to the figure. For the latter description, I, of
course, make a few alterations in some of the points,
bat the basis of the plan is not affected.

Waistcoats may also be produced by my system;
in &ot, I do not know of any garment which may
not be cut by it. I find it invaluable for making
the necessary variation for diq>roportion in " height
of neck," and should you, at any future time, spare
me a small space, I shall be happy to explain the
principle.

€*Q^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[June 1, 18C9.

I must plead my want of practice ia c<mimnni-

eating my ideas on paper, as an excuse for the

imperfect manner in which I have endearoured to

convey my views to you; and venture to rely on

your kindness to put them in a more appropriate

form.

I am, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

Sartor.

UNIVERSAL STSTE3I OF CUTTING.

Plan for Drafting a Coat.

DiAaoAM 8.

Draw the line A G, which I make my centre line
of construction. Mark on it, at B, one-sixth of the
breast-measure; at C, one-foorth ; at D, one-half; at
E, the length of natural waist; and at F, the length
of waist to fashion. Square out from emh of tliffie
points. Mark from A to H, one-sixth, and from B
to I, one-half. Draw a line from H, and intersect I.
Form the top of the back, from A to H, raising it at
H, three-quarters of an inch. From C to K, for
width of back, mark whatever quantity may be con-
sidered correct, according to the fashion of the day.

The line dmini from H to I, represents a ^cmdaed
i^MMilder*»ae«in ; whatever derietioii may bo made
from it in ahaping the beck, a corretpooding allow-
ance must be nuwle in the ibiepart. Ai, fer inMaoee,
if, ettbtr from ikabioii or the taite of the eutte, tlie
top of the beric-aeye i» raiaed or lowered from tbe
line H I, 80 the acye-poiiit of the sboulder-eeem of
the forqMuri must be rami or lovreved to tiie Mnae
extent. So that aUhough, for conTemeiioe^ I ]^e »
shoulder-aaam in a certain poeition, it ohoes met
necessarily bind the cotter to adopk it exeloMTcly,
but leaves him at full libttty to ihape it to any
form he may dilnk proper. I mentioii this cirevm-
stance, as I have a strong objection to a syttem
which fixes any particular style.

Form the back part of the scye fren K to L,
which point is obtain^ at half the breast, (rem D
square with A D.

Having determined the length of shoidder-eeaiii
of the back, on the line I, drawn from the point
above H, make the ahoulder-eeam of the forepart to
correspond. Mark from L to N, on the line D L,

<»e-twelftii of the breast, which will determine the
petition of the front of the scye. Form the neck
frooi H, through B, and mark from E* to M, half
the breast.

Add on, beyond the line A G, at B, from one inch
and a half te two inches ; and at D, three-quarters of
an inch for seams ; and from one inch and a half to
two inches for width of breast.

Mark in, from M, opposite to E, at the small of
the waist, one-four^ of the difference between the
breast and waist measures; and, deducting the
width between this point and E, at the back-seam,
mark tlie remainder of the wsaist to the front-edge of
the forepart beyond E.

Shape tlie front-edge from the end of the neck to
the bottom of forepart.

Should the waist be disproportionate, add on
beyood M, one-iburth of the disproportion, and the
remainder at front. About three inches below the
line drawn from F, will generally find the propor-
tionate length of lapel ; or it may be found by casting
from the bottom of the side-body-seam, on the line
drawn from L, making a pivot at A.

As already produced, the forepart and back are in
two pieces only. The cotter will now determine on
the shape of the back he wishes to cut, and having
found it, he must hook in a little at the top of
the side-eeam of the forepart, and hollow it at the
small of the ^vaist.

To form the scye, let the front touch a line
drawn upwards fironi N at a point about a twelfth
of the breast, and continue it to N.

The point B is not necessarily compulsory, as the
i^pe of the neck wilt be inflnenoed by fhshion ;
it is not even essential to determine H^e direction of
the line fbr the shoulder-seam, as one drawn ^m
a point intersecting a line drawn from C, at two-
thirds of the breast, wili gfre the same angle as from
Htol.

The width of the side-body, as drafted, may be
considered by some cutters ae out of proportton to
1^ front of the ^>repart. That is quite a nu^er of
taste, and may be attered to any sise p r efeir e d , by

« The artist haa inadvertently placed the letter M. at
the end of the line drawn from F instead of that drawn
f^om B.— ®D. Oaz. or Fash.

f^€^

^p^M^a^MB^M

^> '*'^^:.

f^9^

JUSB 1, 1M».]

GAZETTE GF FASHION.

adding oq to d» ftrefMvt tbe ^vanltty dedactad
fima ^a tidt-bedjr* I haT* BMte&j plaoed katL,
for comFBiieace adrailing.

This pbm it equdfy apyliqihlt to ■inglti twnttd
eootSy bitty IB podnoiBg tiieoiy I mukt ikm fospart
ilraigfaltr, by flHxldiig tiM pok* Hy te tiw alM»ld^
flHKB, balf an iaA nearcr to A, aftd add en tbe
ne ueaaatj quantity beyond tbe tine A F«

To PaOBVOE TK SLUTfE*

Dughab 7.

Draw tLe Cne AF. Mai^ on it, at B, a fixed
quantity, one-third of the breast From A to C,
mark the width of back, less half an inch for seams ;
and at D, one-sixth less than the breast-measure.
Mark at E, the length of elbow from A, and at F,
the fall length of sleeve. Miike B a pivot, and
describe the segment of a circle from D,and intersect
it at G, by making D a pivot, and casting from B.
The point K is fixed at one inch less than half the
distance between B and G. Shape the sleeve-head
from C, through K, to G.

The width of back, as will be seen, is imma-
terial ; for, although the distance from A to C is
governed by it, the casting, to determine the position
of the fore-arm, is taken from two fixed points,
irrespective of the back, and the top of the hind-arm-
seam lowered to the point C.

Make D a pivot, and cast from F to H. Mark
from F to H, half the breast, and from H to G, the
width required at the hand.

Place the angle of the square at G, and, allowing
one arm to intercept £, draw a line for the bottom
of the sleeve. Shape the fore-arm and hind-arm to
fashion.

wmmmtmmm

ANALYSTS OF STYLES OF DRESS FOR
THE PRESENT SEASON.

The prevailing atyka of fiKxdi-caats fi)r tlie season
are ilhisicated by the two igures em cme of tkft plaMi
we issue with tkia BtmbeK. Tba waisl^ ia cait bat
little laagtr tluya fm drem. The kip^^bnttow an
rather wider aparly and tbe back ia & tnfla bwxder.
The aide icim » vdl carved^ and tiie batk ent
bfoad aetoaa U» tiie »eje. Tha akirt ia shotl, mmk
with a moderate amooat of compass. The sleeve

easy, and made up uaoally witboQt s e«ff ; k m
§k»rU The kpel is of a ntdinm widtix €mAf;
■aroow at top, but wiAtt at ike centre ; tfatia ave
five holes worked in it. The forepart ia cai to fii
easily to tbe body, but witiiaiit unieh breast added
OB* Tha torn ia long, bot net vety liroad. The
SM^ori^ d'firodt-coata won dasiag the roiiiMr are
aot intended to be buttoned. The coUar is low, but
dleq^er in ptvpoctioQ in tbe fidl. It cogrea p eada at
tbe end with tbe top of tbe kp^ and a amaU Ugbt
is shown. Bktt ia mndi worn, aa aiso nob ahadea
of olive and brown. The fine diagonal vibbed
artielea, drsesad MdtcnSi aad the teey ooatinga in
blue and id eolonn, ata the naaal artaein aaada i^
Faaey silk bctttona, of vaoriona patlema, ana won,
and velvet coUars aie abo in finnoar. Bnud ia iwy
g^neiaUy in reqnest far tbe edges, fand on flat* Tbe
<|imrter of on in^ wide is a lavonrite, bai l»;oader
is sometimes used. This style of finishing tba edges
of fipodc-aoata ia growiag mote and mora into la^ui-
aitioB« The ftenta of iki$ foreparts a»« fiMod to tlM
baciL of tbe bolea in tbe k^ wiA a fine diagonal
or ribbed silk, or witb plain blaek silk 9eTg9.

Frodc-ceata for the aoninier, ntade of Melton elotb
and in light cdoura, are worn buttoned. The edges
are turned in, and atitdied a Httle wi^ in. Tbe
fronts are heed with silk to match* This artkJe
kx^s well made up in this form of garment.

There is another style of frock-eeat prefbted by
some geadenen. Ia haaall the appeefanee upwards
of a dooble-breaated frock'^soat, but has only one
row of buttons and holes. The details are the same
aa those of the double-breaated eoai we have de-
aeribed. Tbia shape ia weU adapted for men who
are ratiMr larger ia the waist than ia prope^timiale
to then: bifaat-«ieaacse; m the bread Iront npwards
imparts to their figures ^e etkct of width of chest,
while the i^senee of a lapel at the bottom of the
firont-edge, leaves tha aneof Ae waM aa in reality.

MernaDg-eoatff aav ef variona foraw* That repn*
aented on tkie t?ro fgaaea on ano^ier of enr pfcamt
pbites is atyliah and dcganl. The yctae/b is mode^
rately long, and tbs skirt short and wdl dot off at
^soob. The turn Pt> the &on« of ^ ^>repert is
broad, and reaches to the waist-seam. The hpd
and eoUar are both small, and of eqttd width.

^b^

vO OPS

-e^^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[JuN£ 1| 1869.

Sleeve rather full, and with a deep round cuff
formed bj one or two rows of stitching. There are
no flaps to the skirts. The edges are tamed in,
and stitched.

Another has a rolling collar, and a handsome turn
extending to the waist-seam. The cuff is but narrow,
and formed bj stitching only. The roll is faced
with silk, and there is only one button on the
forepart — ^more for ornament than utility. This
style of coat has an elegant appearance made up in
the fancy coatings and in dark colours.

A quiet gentlemanly style of coat, but much more
sober in character than either of the two we have
described, will, however, better suit certain figures.
The turn is short, not extending below the third
button. The corners of the lapel and of the end
of the collar are both rounded off. The skirt is
short, and well rounded off at the bottom of the
firont-edge.

Another very smart style is quite original in shape
and appearance. It is double-breasted, with the
lapel cut on. There is no collar, and this constitutes
the principal novelty in the make of the coat The
neck is cut low — as in a waistcoat without a collar —
and continued to the front-edge of the forepart.
There are three buttons and holes at the front. The
forepart is cut off at the wabt, the top hole only
being generally used. The skirt is made to run
with the forepart, and is well rounded off at the
bottom. There are no flaps to the skirts. For a
smart effective coat, we consider this particular style
well adapted.

For a riding-coat, we have an excellent and stylish
form. The turn is not quite so long as shown on
the morning-coat, and the coat is cut large enough at
the waist to admit of being fastened with two buttons
and holes. The comers of the lapel and collar are
well rounded off. The skirt is more like that of a
frock-coat in shape and length, but is cut off at
front To prevent the inconvenience which is fre-
quently experienced by equestrians, by the skirt
getting tmder the seat, a hole is worked at the
angle of the front of the skirt, and one at the
bottom of the back-skirt The two are tumed
back on to the skirt, and £Astened together by a
double button, or a loop may be sewn on to the

skirt, and the two fastened by small hooks. Of
coarse, this plan is only intended to be adopted for
the purpose we have named. There are sometimes
two buttons sewn on the cuff, but without holes.

Of the two prevailing styles of lounge-jackets, oae
is single-breasted, with a long bold turn to the front.
A broad lapel, the comer of which is rounded,
and a small end to the collar, the comer also
rounded off, but in a less degree. The other form
is double-breasted. It is short, and has a bold turn,
but only short. There are four holes marked up,
but the top one is omitted. The front of the fore-
part is well cut off at the bottom, and the lower
buttons are placed closer to the edge. The comer
of the lapel is square, and the collar to match, but
smaller. There are pockets across the front of the
skirts, with welts, and one outside the lefl; breast
The edges are turned in, and stitched rather broad.
The skirts are lined with Italian cloth.

Buttons are becoming fashionable on the sleeves.
Sometimes there is one on the cuff, and one above;
or there are two on the cuff only; but there are not
any holes worked, nor openings lefl.

Moraing-waistcoats are cut in various forms.
Double-breasted without a collar, and to button well
up, as shown on the second figure on one of the
plates; or with a rolling collar, with three holes
only in the lapel, which is cut on to both styles.
Others have a narrow collar with the end well
rounded off. They are also made as represented on
the first figure on another of the plates, single-
breasted without a collar. They are cut rather
longer than recently worn, but with little point at
front. Drills, plain and padded, wove and printed
quilting, are the usual wear. The edges are bound
with cambric. Pearl two-hole buttons and ivory
ball, are worn with drill waistcoats, and covered or
fimcy with quiltings.

Jackets for youths are made short and fitting to
the figure for dress, in the style known as the old
English jacket, and as worn by the Eton boys. They
are cut rather short behind; the back narrow at the
bottom, and slightly pointed; broad across to the
back-scye, and the side-seam not much curved. The
forepart has a small lapel cut on to the top of the
front-edge, and a lapel about an inch and a half

^S^Sii^^^

PC>.

^r-

r^^^

June 1, 1869.]

^^^

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

Plate 1403.

^=s^-

■«=^si

•»'*^ -'^'

^^ses9^

^9^

v^Tg7

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

rJcNE 1, 1869

PREVAILING PARISIAN FASfflONS.

Oar correspondents, writing us from Paris, state,
in reference to the &shions of the daj —

'^The shapes of the various garments for men
present an aspect perfectly in keeping with the period
of the year. As for instance — morning* coats, which
are cut with a waist-seam, are usually made easy to
the measure, and to have a light elegant appearance;
and, taken in conjunction with the moderately easy
style of trousers, as now worn, give a character in
harmony with the summer season.

'^ Morning-coats, as a rule, are cut to a medium
length in the waist. The back is rather narrow; the
stand of the collar very low, and the fall of the same
width, and made up very flat. The turn is very
long when the skirt is of a moderate length, and
very much cut off at fit>nt; but when the skirt is of
a medium width, not much cut off at front, and the
comers well rounded, the turn then is short and
small. There are flaps in the waist-seam, to keep
up the difference of style between the two coats.

" The single-breasted frock-coat has somewhat the
character of a morning-coat, but with this difference,
that it admits of both styles of front— either long or
short — with a short, scanty skirt, and a little cut off
at fh>nt.

'' The lounge-jacket equally admits of both forms
of turn. It is cut like a Tweedside, and moderately
loose to the figure. They are worn either to fasten
up close at the throat with one hole and button, or
to turn very low and lie well back on to the chest.

'^ This form is also patronized, to a certain extent,
for morning- coats, but they have a plait in the
skirts. They are, in fact, the same in effect as the
coat with a waist-seam, and the only difference is
that instead of the skirt and forepart being cut sepa-
rate, they are in one, with a long fish taken out
imder the arm, to give the necessary liberty over the
hips. The waist, perhaps, is a trifle longer by this
arrangement. Besides these fancy styles of dress,
we have but little change to chronicle in dress and
frock coats cut double-breasted, and which you
know are considered by us as more dressy than the
different forms I have described, and resemble each
other more than in the same garments made by
London trades.

'' The waist of both styles of coat is cut from
three-quarters to an inch below the natiual length.
Tlie lapel is of a moderate width, cut with a decided
round to the sewing-on edge, and made up to turn
very low. The top is pointed, and the comer not
rounded off. The collar very low in the stand,
and narrow in the fall, and worked up to spring a
little on the bottom-edge. The waist is well de-
fined. The skirt of the frock-coat is of a medium
length, and flat. That of the dress-coat reaches
nearly to the knee, well cut away at front, and

square at the bottom. The sleeve is cut with a
little round on to the hind-arm-aeam, with but little
fulness at the scye, and rather small at the wrist.**

ALTERATION IN STYLES OF DRESS.

wOo7

It is sometimes both useful and instractive to refer
to the &shion of the past, to enable us to form a
more correct idea of the prevailing styles of the day,
and of the changes which have taken place in the
styles of dress.

Alterations in the general character of a garment
are frequently but slight, when viewed in contrast
with the form which hf^i been worn by its inunediate
predecessor; which also, in its turn, mffered in some
minor detail from that in fashion before it But,
when we have the opportunify of making a compa-
rison between the style which prevails, and that worn
at some distant period, we tiien see how great the
change in character, and are forced to admit how
readily the eye accustoms itself to whatever is.

The plate with the three figures in outline was
published in one of our numbers for 1859 — just teh
TEARS ago. A short time to look back on, but what
a change in the form and appearance of the coats has
been efiected since that period.

Compare the morning-coat, illustrated on the first
figure on one of the plates issued with the present
number, with that represented on the first figure on
the supplementary plate; and the frock-coat on the
middle figure of the three, with those shown on the
two figures on another plate.

Again, we have only to look at the sketch of the
dress-coat on the third figure, and contrast it with
the illustration of the same garment we published
either in our last number, or in that for December,
1868. It is only by having the two palpably before
us, that we can possibly realize how great a difler-
ence has taken place in the style, and in so short a
time.

Take any one detail — ^wheUier collar, sleeve, lapel,
or skirt — and we cannot shut our eyes to the fact of
the great change. We are told that we invariably
return to old fashions, no matter how long the in-
terval between them. Although ladies may have
resuscitated the style of dress which prevailed some
centuries ago, we see no signs at present of the old
fashion for men*s dress being revived in our days.
And when we see certain gentlemen, such as the
late Earl of Fitzhardinge, with his cape of a collar;
the late Earl of Harrington, with his balloon trousers
covering his feet; the late Marquis of Anglesea,
with his tight-cut trousers and light blue coat ; or a
few other celebrities who were conspicuous by the
singularity of their peculiar styles of dress, we wonder
at such ever having been in fashion, and much more
that any one should continue to adopt them.

^^5S<^

BT EDWURO MINISTER tm SON.

IT EDWARD HWISTSR AHS SON.

®Mi:S/£^lE> m lE'A^lIHQH

BT EDWARD MINISTER JUID SON.

< f.^.'/unJ'' -J^^- .■JiL,.„>^^-y&,^y »:

June 1*' 1869.

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1401

I5i

i\"y7i\

Mia 5

E. C. Minister

June P.^ 1869

GAZETTE OF FASHION

DialO.

Or—^^h^

22
23

/%ir.//.

Plate 1402

BBBtt

///J/ Af/tAf/e/,S,/!A//izir^^ Arts,

?•'

-««s65ag8SSs^-

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

No.8, ARGYLL PLACE. REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

Vfit •clrctic StrpojBitorj!.

"AlAtbATarMiddlipMgrafotherilicD'i itaS.'—WoUn.

UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OF CUTTING.

By "Sabtob."

(^Continued Jrom page 11.)

to tug editor of tbk "oazettg of fashion,"
Sir,

Eocouraged hy your kindness in devoting a space
io the last nomber of your valuable magazine to the
pnblicntion of my plan of catting, whioh, at the
instigation of some Aiends, I «ras induced to submit
to yonr criticism, I Tentnre to forward my method
for drafting the dreu and frock coat skirts, so as to
complete the system for a proportionate coat.
To Produce thi Fbock-Coat Skirt.

DiAORAX 5.

Draw a line from A, for the front-edge; on it, at
B, nark— for a skirt with a moderate oompaas, as
now wton— from three inches to three inches and a
half. Draw a line from C, square with the front-

edge, and on it, at C, mark a quantity corresponding
with the meature of the bottom-edge of the forepart,
and including the necessaiy allowance for stivtching,
fulness, and lapel. Draw a line fiom to B, and
at D — a third of the distance between the two points
trom C — mark down to E, one-third of the quantity
from A and B. Form the top of the skirt from B
Io E, and from E to C.

To obtain the proportionate amount of siting,
mark down from E — in oontiouation of the line
drawn from D — the same quantity as from D to £{
and placing one arm of the square at Fr and the
aogle at 0, draw a line fur the back-odge of the
skirt. Add a little round for the seat, mark the
length, and shape the bottom, allowing about half
an inch extra opposite to F, for the prominency of
the hip.

Yon will perceire that, by my simple plan, if I
wish to cut a skirt with nu>ro or less compass, tlie
several points whioh I use vary accordingly, to suit
the particular style I require, whether by fiuhlon or
the make of my customer ; as, ibr instaace, I hare

-i-^eS38ES9sa*-

-*eaS

9^&^

cMS::^X:i a 3Mg^3^0Q

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

^-e^

[July 1, 1869.

only to mark from A to B, more or less than the
quantity I have named for a skirt in the present
style, and I at once obtain a fuller skirt, as the dis-
tances from D to £, and from £ to F, are affected in
proportion, they being governed by the quantity
marked from A to B, and the spring for the back-
edge of the skirt is also altered, by the angle being
increased or lessened as the distance from E to F is
altered.

For yery large waists, or for disproportionate
figures, I do not throw the back of the skirt quite so
much out, nor do I mark so much down to B, as I
find by practice that for such particular cSises it is
not necessaiy to give so much compass in j;he skirt.
On the other hand, for men with small waists, in
proportion to their breast-measure, and with pro-
minent hips, I should have to increase the quantity I
usually allow, to provide for the difierenoe in the
make of these particular figures, and which my judg-
ment would naturally suggest as requisite.

To PfiODUCE THE DrBSS-CoaT SkIBT.
DUGRAM 4.

Draw a line from A for the back of the skirt, and
on it, at B, mark, for the present style, two inches
and a half, and from B, the length of skirt to
measure.

Mark firom A to 0, square with A B, the width to
correspond with the bottom of the forepart, includ-
ing — as in my directions for drafting the firock-coat
skirt — ^the necessary quantity for stretching and fhl-
ness, and three-quarters of an inch to be deducted
at B. Draw a line from B to C, and add on a little
round for the hip. Take off three-quarters of an
inch at B for t^e round of the plait, which will sub-
sequently be pressed back on to the middle of the
skirt in making up. Shape the strap, firont-edge, and
bottom to fimcy.

Morning-coat skirts can be produced by tiie
system for drafting the dress-coat skirt, by marking
less firom A to B, according to the style or oompan
required ; the front, of course, being made to run
with the forepart

I take the credit to myself for believing that your
nimierouB subscribers and readers will find my sys-
tem the simplest which has ever yet been offined to
the trade, while at the same time the rules for devia-

tions, to meet disproportion in figure, are dear and
et^ to be carried out.

I am anxious to leam the opinion of your readers
Tei^)ecting my plan, if they have been disposed to
test it in their practice, or compared it with any pat-
tern they may have by them of a customer, and the
correctness of which they know from experience.

I do not for one moment offer my method as an
infallible rule, for, as I before stated, I am no be-
liever in such a quality in oHjf system of cutting;
but I am so far convinced, from my own knowledge,
of the correctness of the basis, that it only requires a
little horn one or two practical cutters, with more
experience than I can boast of, to complete its
general utility, and to confirm its being relied upon.

To prove its adaptability to all sizes, I forward
you the diagram of a disproportionate coat, illus-
trating the application of my plan for corpulent
figures. I have selected for the measures to carry
out this description of disproportion a man mea-
suring 24 inches round the chest, and 26 round the
waist ; that is to say, half the real sizes round the
body, as you recommend in your plan of cutting.

To some young cutters, with but a limited sphere
for their practioe, both these quantities may appear
rather extraordinaiy ; but, to many of your readers,
these measures, and such instances of disproportion,
will be but too common an occurrence among their
customers, from the nature of their locality in
business.

These latter will know that a coat for such figures
must be drafted to a smaller size than that indicated
by their actual breast-measure, as their frame is not
in proportion to the size taken round the body. It
is found by experience that corpulent men, as a rule,
are narrow across the chest, small at the top of tiie
side-seam, and flat under the arms; and that,
although the measure takoi round the breast may
be of an unusual size, it does not necessarily follow
that their firame is proportionately laige. On the
contrary, we find that much of this extra size con-
sists of fat, which is subject to variation in size from
time to time, according to the health and degree of
exercise taken by the customer; and that the frame
of his body only bears a proporti<m to a smaller
amount of fiU as a covering, and im ke^ng with a

*€^

^9^

July 1, 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

smaller brettt-measore. It would, therefore, be in-
oonsistent to produce a coat for such a figure to tihe
ftdl measure taken on his body, as it would not give
us the real make of the man. Were we to cut
strictly by it, we should have a coat proportioned
too large for ihe man, by having guided ourselves as
to the size by ^ measure round the breast, instead
of exercising our judgment, and selecting another
and smaller size from which to proportion the differ-
ent lengths and determine the positions of the prin-
cipal points. But I need not reiterate this matter to
you, as, in an your treatises and observations on
cuttbg, you have invariably laid down this rule in
the clearest possible manner, and have brought more
evidence to substantiate the ground yoxx have taken
with respect to the necessity for this deviation from
your general pnnciple than I can hope to advance.
I am qtdte satisfied to follow in your steps, and
willingly accept all your arguments in support of my
doing so.

In all cases where the breast-measure exceeds 21,
and the waist is disproportionate in size, I invariably
draft the coat to a smaller size than the measure I
take round ike bo^, unless my customer present
some speeiid difference in make or appearance to
that which I generally find with a man of this par-
ticular make. On the other hand, if cutting for thin
men with but Httle flesh on their bones, it would be
doing them an injustice, as a tailor, to cut so as to
display ikmc defocta more palpably to the eye. It
should be the aim of every tailor who has a proper
appreciation of his duties towards his clients, to exer-
cise his talents to set their figures off* to the best
possible advantage; and, where Nature has treated
any of them with less consideration than some others,
and has departed from tmr ideas of symmetry, it
becomes, in those cases, the bounden duty of the
cutter to diminidi, as mudi as possible, those de-
partures from perfection, and, by his ingenuity,
make up by art for any deficiencies. I cannot
believe that the saying with which every one is
familiar, that ** die tailor makes the man,** is without
some real significanoe in society, or that, as instru-
ments fi>r advancing the interest of our fHlow-

y^ ereatures, our humble exertions are overiooked by

ifc wie suoeessihl competitors.

mss3^

To Peoduce a Goat for a Gorpulemt Figure.

DlAOBAX 8.

By referring to the diagram which you pubUshed
in the June number of the Gazette of Fashion,
illustrating my plan of drafting the forepart of the
coat for a proportionately made man, and oomparing
it with that represented by diagram 3 in the present
iflsue, you will perceive that it differs but in two ot
three points only, and which deviations from my
method, are necessitated by the peculiar circum-
stances of the figure in questbn £ot which we have
to operate.

I mark beyond L <m€ indk^ and the same quantity
bejrottd M, which, as you kindly stated in* a foot-
note, should have been placed at the end <^ the line
drawn from £, as in the diagram I sent you f<^
inspection. When the waist is less than the breast,
I deduct, as I have already stated, one-fourth of the
difiference between the two, and mark it on the line
E, from M, as this point determines the position of
the edge of the mde-body-eeam opposite the hollow
of the waist

When, on the other hand, as in the case before
me, the waist exceeds the breast-measure, by carry-
ing out the edge of the side-body-seam one inch
beyond L and M, I obtain a proportion of the addi-
tional size in the back and under the arms, while I
reduce the width of my fbrepart across the chest as
sudi figures require.

Coats for corpulent men must be cut longer in the
lapel than in proportion to the length of their waist,
as a considerable length is taken up by the promi-
nency of their belly, as also being partly increased
by the erect attitude which their disproportion com-
pds them to assume. To provide for these contin-
gendes, I mark one inch below F, and square out
from this new point, for the bottom of the side-body-
seam. The firont of the forepart at the bottom is
then produced in the same way as laid down in my
plan for the length of lapel for an ordinary figure;
but I alter the shape somewhat, by adding on a little
round to the bottom-edge near to the firont.

Your readers will perceive that I have made a
slight difference, on diagram 8, in the positions of
some of the points for drafting my forepart, as com-

-*>.'

■^=6^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[Jolt l, 1869.

pared with their places on diagram 8, in last month's
number.

I have drawn mj shoulder-line to I, at two-thirds
of the breast firom C, instead of from B. I men-
tioned, in mj previous communication, that this
alteration might be made, if preferred. I hare
adopted this plan in preference to the other, as I find
that, in well-made men, the line drawn from H to I,
as shown on diagram 3, represents more correctly
the direction of the shoulder-line of the figure.

The actual shape of the shoulder-seam is a matter
of taste or fashion; and, whatever the cutter deducts
fix>m the line H I, in forming the shoulder-seam of
the back, so much must necessarily be added on
beyond this line in producing the shoulder-seam of
the forepart. This alteration will render any devia-
tion for '' high or low necks ^ the more easily carried
out.

I shall be happy to send you, from time to time,
the application of my system to waistcoats, the Ches-
terfield form of Over-coats, Raglans, lady's riding-
habit, or fi>r an Inverness cape, with sleeves ; and if
—as I venture to believe — ^you find that by mj
plan of cutting I can produce the patterns of such
opposite garments in style and shape, you will give
me credit for introducing simplicity in principle,
combined with expedition in drafting fix>m measures.

I am, Sir,

Your obedient servant,

Sart(Ms.
(To he continuedJ)

1 forgot to state that the disproportionate coat is
produced to 22^ breast, and that the difierent quan-
tities mentioned in my directions refer to the pro-
portions of that size. The real breast-measure is
only used to determine the width from the back-
seam to the iront-edge of the forepart, as also to
mark the difierence between the waist-measure and
the breast-measure as a guide for the make of the
GusUmier.

|IM«MMIMW«*«MM«M«M««aM««n

Edinburgh^

to the editor of the '' ojuette of fashion."
Dear Sir,
W In commemoration of the fiftieth anniversary of

k A my entering on to the misfortune of becoming a

%^Si^

tailor, I send you what may not, nevertheless, be my
last contribution — the diagrams of a pair of trousen
(diagrams 1 and 6), which, in my humble opinion,
is the most efficient trouser that I ever cut.

The pattern will speak for itself, and I safely leave
it in the hands of yourself and of your numerous
readers, to many of whom I am already familiarly
known as a contributor to your pages, and shall be
glad to see a discussion on this branch of our trade
taken up earnesUy by some of the younger members
of our profession, who are supposed to have new
life and ideas in them, and to take a pleasure in
framing new and special rules for themselves, without
reference to their predecessors or to their plans.

I have been before the trade now for some few
years, and it amuses me at times to review the
numerous systems of cutting which have been in-
vented by persons more or less competent to the
task by their knowledge or by their ignorance of the
real basis of a plan, or of their business.

As ^ou know, I have made the theory and practice
of our trade my study, and have spared neither time
nor money in prosecuting any inquiry for arriving
at the satisfisictory solution of a problem in cutting.
WiUi me tiiis has been a task of love and enthu-
siasm, and where oUiers might have been deterred
by the difficulties met with on the road, or by the
sarcastic remarks of some of our fellow-workers, to
me \hej have only acted as an incentive to renewed
exertions and to a further display of patience and
perseverance.

As you are aware, I have not confined myself to
the ordinary class of garments, or to the different
shapes which are in every-day use. I have rather
preferred to strike out some new form or method of
arrangement for operation, in which I could obtain
those particular advantages in draft and ease in wear,
which constitute the most essential points in any
article of dress, irrespective of the difference such
properties might effect in the appearance or neoessi-
tate in the position of the principal seams.

By some of my more matter-of-fiict friends, mj
peculiar notions^ as they mildly term them, serve as
an amusement, they being perfectiy contented to
remain as they are and as they h(we existed for
years; while others, who are imbued with somewhat

;}cy>

SLSC

JuLT 1) 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

of the spirit of emulation which inflaenees inO| gladly
wdoome any new idea from my brain, knowing that,
if offered to the trade, it has undergone a searching
inyestigation as to its merits, and is not a mere ema«
nation or a hncj hazarded by me.

I do not consider that a cutter, who aims at being
a practical man of business, ought to be trammelled
by merely conventional ideas. His object should be
to improre his branch of trade, and introduce new
features into it. We have abundant proofs of great
innovations being made in the forms of garments,
and of the &cility with which they have settled down
into general use, to encourage the practical man not
to be intimidated by any deviation he may have to
make to ensure carrying out his object. I have
never allowed this objection to weigh for one moment
with me. If the fear of putting a seam out of its
place is to act as a barrier to effecting an improve-
ment in style or principle, we had better at once go
back to the primitive times of our forefathers, when
cutting a coat across the waist was imputed to a
desire to economize cloth, and forbidden by tlie cus-
tomer in consequence.

There is one thing for which I have reason to be
grateful — ^viz., the courteous treatment I have inva-
riably received from my fellow-contributors to your
magazine. If, as at times, my communications have
been rather eccentric in character, still your corre-
i^ndents have, one and all, always treated me with
kindness, and have given me credit for at least
knowing what I was about, and that I was actuated
by some good motive. I am but too happy to avail
myself of this opportunity to express my sincere
thanks to them collectively for their generous treat-
ment, and to wish that, should they continue to have
a desire to promote the service of our trade, and ad-
vance our branch of industry, they in their turn
may meet with the same forbearance, and receive
the same kindness which has been shown towards
me in my profeiBi<mal career.

I am, dear Sir,

Tours respectfully,

John Akdebson.

MMAwtvMA..*. %»**«>*«•

MACHINE FOR PRESSING.

What with machines worked by steam for cutting
out garments by the dozen, machines for per£>rming
every description of sewing, and machines for work-
ing button-holes, the catalogue would now appear to
be complete by the addition of the last invention —
a machine for pressing.

Messrs. Brunswick and Co., of Paris, whose
sewing-machines enjoy a large share of public £ivour
in France and on the Continent, have directed their
mechanical ingenuity to devise a plan for superseding
the principal amount of manual labour exercised in
the task of pressing garments; and, afler various
experiments, have invented a machine which is found
by practice to perform its task satis&ctorily, and
with a considerable saving of muscular labour.

At each end of a table made of beechwood, about
four feet long and rather more than two wide, there
is a pillar supporting a double rail, on which a
« traveller " is worked by a combination of small
wheels. Attached to this ''traveller'* is a long
screw which is connected with the iron. This iron,
however, is not like the ordinary shaped " goose " in
general use, but a hollow box perforated at the
sides, and made to contain charcoal or peat, by which
the lower and polished surface of the box is heated.
It is, in fact, after the principle of our " box-irons,"
but with fuel in the place of a solid mass of hot
iron to throw out the heat.

This iron may be made to move in any direction
•required with the greatest facility, and without any
exertion.

There are special ^* ileeve-toards^^ for the various
descriptions of work, and they may be used in their
turn without involving any trouble to the workman.
The inventors of this machine claim for it the merit
of effecting a considerable saving in labour; and
advance, in proof of their assertion, that a journey-
man, by means of one of these machines, can per-
form t¥rice the quanti^ of work which he could if
he had an ordinary '' goose" to handle, and with less
wear and tear of strength. The inventors estimate
the consumption of Aiel per day at^-charcoal, 2d.;
peat, l}d.; and gas. Id. A special arrangement
will, however, be required for heating by gas.

SS^ -

^9=&-

^9*

■c-C^

GAZETTE OF FASmON.

[July 1, 1869

With respect to the time oocapied in engendering
the necessary amount of heat, we learn that in ten
minutes the iron is in a fit condition to nse; that it
will retain its heat for more than three hours; and
i^at it is only necessary to attend to it every two
hours during the time the iron is wanted.

There is no danger of scorching the article, as the
face of the iron never attains the degree of heat
which would involve that risk.

Making a comparison between the time oocupied
in pressing with an ordinary iron, and one worked
by the machine, we find it stated that it is as a
minute to a second; and the difference in the surface
covered by the two irons in action must, also, be
borne in mind.

With this gain in time, it is calculated that the
earnings of a journeyman or of a family would be
materially increased.

As a novelty, we have thought it our duty to
make known this invention to our readers ; as every-
thing which tends to lessen labour, or facilitate the
execution of any part of our trade, must possess an
interest for the mass, and raise speculation as to its
ultimate effect upon wages. We, however, leave the
discussion of this part of the question to abler heads
than our own.

WEDDING-DRESS.

We are so frequently applied to by our provincial
patrons for infbrmation as to the correct or prevailing
style of dress to be worn by gentlemen on the occa-
sion of attending a wedding as a visitor, or when
filling a more important position at the ceremony,
that we have been induced to devote one of the plates
we issue with this month^s number, to the special
illustration of l^e dress suited for the purpose we
have named.

The coat should be a frock-coat, double-breasted,
cut in the prevailing style of fashion, but devoid
of any eccentricity in detail or shape. Hie colour
blue, of a medium shade, or of claret; eillier may
be worn. The edg^ bound narrow with braid,
or a narrow braid sewn on fiat. The fronts may
be faced to the edge, or to the back of the holes
only, with a narrow ribbed black silk, or with a

plain black silk serge to fancy. A doth collar would
be more appropriate, unless the ceremony take pkoe
in the winter, when a velvet collar might be per-
mitted, but then only. The cuff may be made to
the style usually worn at the time with ordinary
frock-coats. The front of the coat may be worn
open, and thrown back on to the chest, as shown on
the first figure, or buttoned up with three holes, as
the gentleman may be accustomed to wear his coat.

The waistcoat may be made either single or double
breasted, and of white quilting or drill, and either
perfectly plain or with a neat pattern, as the dress is
essentially a mommg costume.

The trousers should be of dress doeskin, in a pale
clear shade of drab or slate, and be made perfectly
plain. A narrow lapped seam is admissible.

In place of this article, a fine diagonal line, a
narrow rib crossways, or a small mixture may be
worn in a light quiet colour in angola or doeskin.

The cravat may be of any light colour in silk, and
in a neat pattern. The gloves should be of a light
drab or pale straw colour, according to the fashion
for this article of dress.

As our object in publishing this particular |date
was more especially to illustrate the style of drees
worn, rather than the materials of which it should be
composed, we have not conndered it inconsistent to
represent a pattern on one of the fix>ck-coat8, as the
figure represents the present s^le of morning costume
for dress occamons.

RIDING-DRESS

We have illustrated the back and front views oi a
fashionable style of riding-dress, on the two figures
represented on another of the plates issued wi^ this
number of our work.

The coat is single-breasted, and cut off at lira
bottom of the forepart rather more than has been
recently worn. The waist may be considered radier
long, and the hip-buttons a little wider apart than
formerly reported. The side-seam is well curved,
and the back-scye of the average width. The back
is cut broad across to the sleeve-head. The lapel is
bold, but only extends a short distance down the
front-edge. There are four holes and buttons at

c<^:^^^ss s sssiy^^y^

^9^

Jolt 1, 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION*

front, all below the tnm; a small round bole is
worked in the torn lor the stalk of a £ower. The
collar ia low in the stand, but deeper in the fall, and
the end well cnt off. The skirt ia moderate in length,
and nanow at the bottom. There are flaps in the
waist-eeam, with pockets under. The sleeve is of a
medinm size, without a cuff, but with a button at the
hand. The edges are bound narrow, or double-
stitched. The collar and fronts of the turn of the
foreparts &ced with silk.

The waistcoat is single-breasted, without a collar,
made to button up well, and cut rather long at front.

Trousers a little shapely at the knee, but to fidl
easily on the boot.

The first figure on the third plate illustrates the
back y'u^w of the double-breasted frock-coat repre-
sented 0.1 another plate.

The coat shown on the other figure of this plate is
single-breasted, and in style between a frock-coat
and a moming-coat, being cut away at frt>nt of the
skirt, and shorter than the double-breasted frock-
coat is worn.

There are three holes and buttons at front of the
forepart, and a bold lapel is cut on above the top
button. The end of the collar is made to correspond
in width, but low in the stand, as usual. The skirt
is very scanty, and short. The sleeve easy, with a
cuff formed by stitching, and one button at each
edge.

Morning-trousers are still worn rather easy over
the boot.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.

PlAT£8 1406 AND 1407.

Diagrams 1 and 6, are the pattern of a pair of
trousers, illustrating a plan recommended by our old
correspondent, Mr. John Anderson, for cuttmg this
garment, so as to combine all the qualities which
should be found in this article of dress.

The seat-seam, between the top of the l^-seam
and the end of l^e line drawn from 9, on the diagram
of the under-side (diagram 1), must be stretched in
making i^; and the carved edge of the upper part

9^5^

of the seam, across a portion of the seat, from 2 on
the line drawn from 4 J, to 7| on the line drawn firom
9, must be stretched, to correspond with the length
oi the convex edge, from 7| to 4|. The back part
of the 1^ must be shrunk opposite to the knee in
making up.

Diagrams 2, and from 7 to 11 inclusive, are the
pattern of a moming-ooat, which we have taken from
the collection of patterns publiriied by our contem-
porary, Herr MUller, at Dresdoi, in his monthly
work on fashion. Our readers will, by this means,
be enabled to make themselves acquainted with a style
of coat worn on the Continent, and distinguish the
peouliaritieB which mark the difierenoe in character
between the shape we illustrate on these diagrams,
and the form usually adopted by our leading houses
in town.

We may, perhaps, draw attention to the &ct of
one edge of the V, taken out at the end of the neck,
forming a oontinuation of the top of the lapel ; and
also to the droumstanoe that the three lower buttcms
and holes are placed much more closely together, and
not at equal distances with the others above. The
object of the originator of the idea was evidently that,
while preserving the long turn to the front of the
forepart, he would, at the same time, ensure the pro-
per support to the body of the coat, by placing an
additional number of holes and buttons bdow the
bottom of the turn. The pattern, as usual on the
Continent, where the system of measuring by cmti-
mkm is adopted, is proportioned for a man measur-
ing 18} or 18i chest. The quantities which we
have affixed to the several points will be woriced out
by the graduated measures in use in this country for
any other size breast than 18. For this particular
dimension, the common ti^>e-measure will be sufficient

Diagram 3, represents the plans of dxafling the
forepart of a coat for a corpulent man, to illustrate
ihe method by which our correqwndent, the author
of the UiovBBSAL Ststuc ov CuTTmo, can carry out
the necessary al t e r ati o n in shape, and in the position
of certain points required for this particular case of
disproportion.

Diagrams 4 and 5, illustrate the plan for producing
the frock and dress coat skirts by the same system,
and will be found frdly described in that por^n of

-^^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

eQ^

[Jolt 1, 1869.

oar correspoadenti '' Sftrtor*8," communication, which
we publish in the preeent number.

Diagram 12, is the pattern of a novd style of
dress suited for a child, or as a imcj article of dress
fihr an adult. Its origin ia foreign, and is a type of
the ordinary style of dress worn by that portion of
the peasantry of Austria who inhabit the south
and the east of that country. The name there
giren to this form of garment is the Bunda.

When we made the last alteration in the character
of the engravings we issue with our monthly work,
we intimated that we should avail ourselves, from
time to time, of the appearance of any style of dress
emanating firom the Continent, which, from possess-
ing some distinctive feature, might be of interest to
our readers generally, or which might serve as a
medium for the construction of a form of dress that
might, by some new arrangement, admit of being
adopted in this country. The pattern we have illus-
trated on the diagram, and which is also taken from
the same work to which we are indebted for the pat-
tern of a morning-coat we have described above,
appears to us to possess the necessary qualifications
we have mentioned, and is unquestionably a decided
novelty to the trade.

• The forepart, back, and sleeve are all cut in one
piece, and the garment, by means of plaits, and by
fishes taken out where indicated on the diagram,
forms, when on, a kind of loose blouse* There are
plaits from the top of the back, at C, to the bottom,
at D, much in the style of those on the Noefolk
Shirt. The space from the top of the front-edge of
the forepart to the point A will be in continuation
with the lower part, when the two edges, marked A
and B, are seamed together; and the two curved
edges, from B to the bottom of the sleeve, are sewn
together, and form the only seam in it. A plait is
folded in from the side of the neck, on the shoulder,
to nothing at the bottom, to form a d^ree of liberty
for the action of the arm. There are plaits firom the
point B downwards to the bottom of the skirt, and
the fulness is kept in place by means of a narrow
strap sewn on rather low down, and fiutened to the
size required by a hole and button at the ends.

There are two pockets on each forepart, with flaps,
and the edges are trimmed with a tastefbl design in

narrow braid. The front is fastened by four buttons
and holes placed at equal distances.

We consider this style would be exceedingly be-
coming for a little boy, and that it might, with equal
advantage, be made a substitute for the garment
known as the Norfolk Shirt, which was once so much
in vogue as a lounge-jacket to wear in the country.
Any of our readers can drafl the pattern to the
full size for 12 breast by the graduated measure
corresponding with that size breast, and judge for
themselves, when finished, of the effect the pattern
produces.

M«*l«Mk«*«Mn

THE CUTTER^S RIGHT-HAND MEASURE.

Under the above title, Mr. Dean, the maker, par
txceUence^ of the tape and other measures used by
tailors, has introduced a novelty to the trade. The
numbers on the inch-measures, as is well known,
usually commence on the left hand, and continue to
the right As the majority of cutters operate from
the right hand— or, at least, when cutting trousers
from the piece, begin on the right — Mr. Dean con-
ceived the idea that a tape-measure numbered in the
same way — ^that is, from right to left — and with the
figures placed upwards^ as read, would be an ad-
vantage; and, consequently, no sooner thought of|
than it has been carried out in a practical manner,
in the Right-hand Measure. The new arrangement
and the direction of the figures are a decided im-
provement, as the quantities are more readily seen
than when the figures are reversed.

AottrrK to €iirreiSiiotilrnii]Bk

H. J. T.^We think iks front of the tep^tide it eon$id€raify

toofitrvMtrd, Tk^re is no crutch ; the eide-seam i$ too ehort

in proportion to the leg-feam^ and the troutere are too twkmU

at the knee frit the meaewe eent to ue,
X. Y. Z. — We have do meant of ateertaining, at toe invari'

ably dettroy any pattern when we have examined it and

replied to quettiont retpeeting it.
Memo.— There it no actual neeettity for thortening the tide^

team; it attittt the making up, and for that reaton i»

generaliy done,
PuzzLBD. — We have no legal adviter on our ttaff.

The APRIL NUMBER of the «< GAZETTE OF
FASHION" contains a Colonred lUiMtration of the
NEW COURT-DRESS.

MAT— New Design for EYENINO-DRESS.

Now ready, the NEW VOLUME of « GAZETTE OF
FASHION/' to April inclo8ive-36 beaudfoUy-finiahed
EngraTings, representing 72 figures of e^terj variety of
Gentlemen's Drest, Sjstemt of Cutting, Patterns, and an
immense amount of practical information. Published price,
Sis. Sent bj post free on receipt of a P.-O. Order for 18a«

^^d^'

July 1
BT EDWARJ) MINISTER AMD SON.

WEDDING DRESS ^

BT EOW*]U> lONISTEB AlfS SON.

'77'' ■''- "T"'

?*■<

ttu

RIDING DRESS
BT EDWUU) MINISTER jam SON .

ihi

tf.

July

fM869.

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plale 1406

C. Minister

Julyr'1869. GAZETTE OF FASHION . Plate 1407.

'■i

But. 10.

...^^^.

f-.

■

.ii_,w

Aa 11

/;?/•«. /V/ Mi.~hr/e/. S r ctJ/ A-

^«3ssaa^9s9» --

*^^^^^oSSw

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWABD MINISTER AND SON,

No. 8, ARGYLL PLAC£> REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

August 1, 1869.

Zht CtUctic Kryofiitarj!.

"A satharai *iid dtopOMr ofotbtr niMt'i ttmff.''— IToKml

UNIVEESAL SYSTEM OF CUTTING.

By "Sartob."

{Contmued Jrtm paga 18.)

to tuk editor op tbe " oazitte of rasuiok."
Sir,

As ■ fbrthcr illostration of the comprfrhenriTe
character of my aystein of cutting, of which you
hftve been so kind aa to afford me space for some
epecimene, I now b*g to forward for your psjree
my plan of draftiDg that particular form of Over-
coat, known in the trade as the " Chetterfield."
I hftve adopted the present style, so as to admit
of my plan being immediately available to any

* your readers, ^Tho may have thought well of
my fonner obaeirations, and be disposed to ex.
peiiment upon my preaent cummuDicaiion.

Alihongh some of the points used in my i^«tem

for coats will be found repeated in the method
for drafliiig this particular form of Over>coat, and
many of the previous directions would also apply,
I have thought it advisable to give the flill in-
atruetioDB, to prevent any mistake being made,
as well as to facilitate the working of the system
by the mies being made sufficiently explicit for
the purpose.

The different amount of ease now allowed in
every form of coat, by different cutters, so varies,
according to tlieir individual taste, or aa governed
by the particular locality and class of customers,
that it is difficult for the inventor of a system
so to frame his rules as to produce a garment
which will combine the specific (]ualitieB tbat%ach
cutter would connder essential, according to bis
taste, and to comprise that particular extent of
ease which he himself may be in the habit of
giving in his coats. Feeling this difficulty, I hare
endeavoured to steer between the two extremes,
and have had in view — while framing my system
for producing the "Chesterfield" form of Over-

JOO -

^^S^^^9^^-

^•e^

^^^

GAZETTE OP FASmON.

[August 1, 1869.

coat — the proportion of ease which is genesallj
observed at the present time.

Of course, it will be open to any of your readers
to produce a Chesterfield to a larger or to a soialler
scale, in reference to the actual size taken over the
waistcoat, if they wish, without in the least inter-
fering with the fit. There is, however, thw feet to
be borne in mind, that when a coat is produced to a
much larger size than the actual breast-measure, the
depths are increased in f rc|>«rtiDzi. Thia maj not
always be desirable for some figures. A sufficient
amount of ease in mdih may be given by allowing
an additional quantity on at front, while preserving
the lengths in their rdath^e proportions to the figure,
and to the size to which the coat is produced.

It will, therefore, be understood by yoitr readers
that whenever, in the course of my directions, I
make use of the term ^' proportions of the breast-
measure," I am to be supposed to refer to the par-
ticular size selected by ihe cutter to drail his coat
to, and not to the actual measure taken on the body
itself. It will then be left to his judgment or to his
taste, to determine the extra width and size he may
choose to give on the garment.

To PfiODUCZ TSE ChESTEBFKLD FOfiM OF OV£»-COAT.

DlAGBAM d.

To Dbaft tbe Back.

fieoQgnijdng t)ie general f^an of first enttiBg a
pi^per pattern of the garment, aa well on the score
of oonvesdence and ecxmamj of materia], ae of
economy of time, when drafting garments of a cer^
tain style which are not intended to fit cloiely to the
figure, and of which a few hloek patterns, produaed to
certain proportionate measures, are sufiieient £Dr
general purposes, I shall not, in the course oi my
remarks, take any notice of the mateadal itaeH^ as I
otherwise should, if giving directions t» cut from the
doth.

Dxnw the Mne A F, which will r^reaoit ihA
centre of the back, if it be determined to cnt il
whole. Mark on it, at B, oneHuxUi of the breast*
nieasuie,or any other quantity, according to fashion;
at C, one-fourth; and at D^ one-half. Mark at £,
half an inch more than the length of naftncal waist,
and at F, the full length of the coat.

From A mark upwards three-quarters of an inch

— a fbced quantity — and square with the line A F,
mai^ out f^om this point, at G, one-sixth, and at H,
one^hnrd of the breast.

F^rom G, square with A C, draw the line C E;
mark on it w&atever quantity may be determined by
fashion lor the width of back, and at K, two-thirds
of the breast-measure. Square out from D to M,
and mark the distance between the two points one-
half of the breast.

From B, making a pivot at G, on the line drawn
from the point above A, cast the segment of a circle,
and intersect it at half the breast from £.

Draw a line from G^ throogh E, end make what-
ever deviation preferred from it for the shape of the
shoulder-seam. Form the top of the back from A
to G, aod shape the baek*scye to M. Draw a line
from H, through N, as a guide for the spring of the
side seam, and form it from M, or from any point on
the back-Bcye, according to the degree of fulness to
be given to the whole of tbe coat be3rond the actual
size of the body. Cast from F, making a pivot at
G, for the bottom of the back.

If it be intended to have a back-seam, in order to
let the coat fit better in to tbe waist, mark out from
F, beyond the line A F, about an inch and a half,
and shape the lower part of the back-seam from £.
To PllOI>U€B TBI FeavABX.

Having fixed the positions of the several points,
A, B, 0, D, £, F, G, H, E, M, and N, mark on the
line D M, at L, one-tbbd of the breast, and square
up from it one-twelfth of the breast, as a guide for
the front of the scye.

Draw a fine from G, through E, far the shonlder-
seam, and add on or deduct from it according to the
alteration made in th^ shape of the shoulder-seam of
the bade fSrom that determined by the line itselE

Focm the neck from G, through B; measure the
width of shoulder-seam, and f<»rm the sqre threap
the peintabove L to M, lowering it a litHe bekyir the
line between L and M.

Shape the side-seam frcun M to N, oonlinuin^ it
below N to the bottom, in adirection govcnMd bj n
line drawn from H thiongh N.

Add on at fiwnt, beycmd the line A F, abent two
inches and a half for seams, and the qnantit^r snffi-
cienito give the necessary amoont of case bqpoad

-a_„

*€2s

?^^9«^

ATKK78T 1} 1M9.]

GAZETTE OF FASmON.

the aoteil me^ and make what allowasee is reqnired

£>r the Imttona to itaiid in^ or for the lapel betidea.

Meaanre ^e length of nde-ataan by the baek, and,

making a pirot at A, oast the bottom of the forepart.

A Y ihoiild be taken out at the end of the neck, to

reduce it to the length proporticmate to d^ size of

the ooat, wilfaoot reducing the width across the

cheat.

To Pbqducs th£ Sleevx.

jySAQBJM 5.

Draw the line A F. Mark on it, at B, one-third
of thebreast^measnre; at C, the width of back; atD,
one-e^hth leas than the breast; «t £, three-quarters
of an inch more than the measure taken to the
elbow; and at F, three-quarters of an inch more
than the full length of the sleere, to allow for the
seams when sewing in the sleeve, and at the back-
scye.

Make a piyot at B, and cast the -scgsoent of a
circle irom D; intersect it at H, by the segment of a
circle cast fiom B, making D the pivot Shape the
sleeve-head from C, intercepting the casting from B
to H, at I, which is placed 1 inch nearer to B than
to H. Cast from F £ar bottom <^ sleevsi makiog a
pivot at C| and intersect the casting «t G, by half
the breast-measure. Mark backwards from G, the
width the sleeve is to be cut at the bottom, and
riiape hind-arm and fore-arm to iaahion.

Tou will perceive there is a slight difference in
some portion of my system of producing the sleeve
of a Chesterfield, and that of an ordinary coat.

I have found it necessary to make this deviation,
to suit the requirements of this form of Over-coat

Altxkatiqii worn DnPBcroanoir m Bsuluvb Sia
OF Waist axd Bbiast.

DiAOBAH 4.

As no system of ciittbg laid down for the guidanoe
of the iaexperienoed portion of cutters, can be con-
sidered complete imlen some plan is also shown by
v^ch the necessary aHeraition in the shape of the
garment vusf be elleeted aecerding to the variation
of the figure^ I hsFe added a diagimm TOprssouling
the foiepait cf a Chesterfield for a disfvopoxtionate
man.

As I hMB draftsd liie foeepart fbom the front, it is
neoesaaiy 4hat I should take the difference in size of

waist, and that which would bear a proportion to the
breast, into consideration, and determine how much
of the excess should be allowed on at front.

The back is produced as directed for a propor-
tionate figure.

Having drawn the line A F, from tiie point E —
which is fixed at half an indi more than the natural
length of waist from A — ^mark out to e, two-thirdsof
the disproportion of wabt. I have taken for my
illustration a man measuring 21 breast and 24 waist
—an extreme case, it is true, but the better calculated
to show the working of my method of deviation.

The proportionate waist for 21 breast, according
to the reoogniaed standard of the trade generally,
would be 17|> inches — ^say 18, to omit fractions. The
difierence between 24 and 18, is 6 inches. I conse-
quently mark fix>m £ to e, 4 inches, and diaw a line
from A, through thb new point e. On this line, I
mark the points B, €, and D, as also the point three-
qvartars <^ an inch above in continuation.

For disproportionate figures, the lines C, D, and
£, are square with the line A F, as in proportionate
eases; but the widths are taken from die line A s.

The point M is fixed at one inch more than half
the breast, from D, but the point L remains at one-
third.

From e to N, IB half the waist, and on^third of
the amount of disproportion. As all corpulent figures
are small across the chest, in proportion to their
breast-measure, it would be inocmsistent to allow on
the same proportion beyond the actual siae as would
be oorrect for a well-made man. I would, therefore,
mark less at frnmt beyond the line drawn fiy>m A,
through s-^ay 2 inches, instead of 2 J. I should,
by this plan, have all the width required in the lower
part of my ooat, and the upper part would be in
keeping with the difl^srenoe in make.

As a corpulent figure is usually very upright,
iiwn diat circumstance, as also from the increase in
siae of waist, it is necessary to lengthen the front-
edge <tf the forepart. This can be effeoted by making
^ pivot to cast the bottom an inch out beyond A.

[Our artist has made the Toond of ibe sleeve-head
wnck too flat, as any of our readers can see for him-
aslf, or by casting.— Id.]

(To be coiUmmd.)

g - e^^^raa na s^yo-o

ffQ^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[August 1, 1869

to the editor of the "gazette of fashion.*'
Dear Sir,

You published, in your May number, a system for
producing ladies' trousers for riding. It appeared at
a very opportune time, when the demand for that
garment was commencing. From the difficulty in
getting at the proper measures, few cutters succeed
to their wish, and many altogether decline, for fear
of a failure; consequently the directions given by
you will be the more acceptable, especially with the
guarantee which experience of yoiu: system for pro-
ducing other garments will give to your readers.

In your ^ Complete Guide to Practical Cutting,"
you give a guide for the bigness of seat compared
with the waist, when the former measure has not
been taken, about a sixth more. It would be de-
sirable to know from cutters who have had practice
in cutting for ladies, what proportion they find it
necessary to allow, as this would render your method
more efficient.

Perhaps your ventilatbg the question may hare
the effect of adducing some information, and benefit
others as woU as

Yours respectfuUyy

" M. T."

to the editor of the '' gazette of fashion."
Sir,

All Mr. Anderson's contributions to your work
are characterized as evidently originating with a
man thoroughly acquainted with the subject he takes
in hand, and demonstrate that he is a perfect master
of his business, theoretically as well as practically.
In his laudable desire to advance tlie science of our
bi-anch of trade, he does not to me appear to make
sufficient allowance for factif or things as thetf are;
and therefore his suggestions firequently involve an
amount of trouble, and a risk of failure in producing
the desired effect, which are prejudicial to the in-
tention he has of improving the fit of garments.
There is a certain amount of exaggeration in the
shape of his patterns, which startles an old prac-
titioner, and is apt to mystify the mind of a novice,
rwho sees the plan without at once comprehending
the purport

§ b ff^3 ^^

In the diagram of a pair of trousers contributed
by your talented correspondent in the last number
of your magazine, the arrangement of the under-side
is of the character I have noticed.

In your directions for making them up, you state
that "the curved edge of the upper part of the
seam, across a portion of the seat from 2, on the line
drawn from 4 J to 7j, on the line dra¥m from 9,
must be stretched, to correspond with the length of
the convex edge," <&c., &c. This plan may have a
good effect when properly and carefully carried out,
InU supposing the journeyman do not take the neces-
sary pains, what sort of a result should we then have
produced ? He would find the lower edge too long
for the upper, and would naturally reduce the length
at the side-seam, and by so doing deprive the gar-
ment of the very advantage which Mr. Anderson
intended it should possess.

I could almost wish that your correspondent could
devise some simpler and easier method of ensuring
the benefits he wishes his customers and others to
enjoy, and not place us so much at the mercy of our
workmen to carry out his plans.

ffe may hare the good fortune to employ sound
practical men, such as we find in the workdi<^ of
same of the tailors in IVuis — men who only require
to be told what result is desired, to ensure its being
produced. But he, being a practical man himself,
cannot but be aware that many of us in the pro-
vinces are badly off in this respect, and cannot
depend on realizing more than the common run of
fair workmanship. When any little difficulty —
such as sewing the seam across the seat, as shown
on diagram 1 in your July number— comes before
us, our journeymen get confiised, and, magnifying
the trouble, are safe, to make a muddle of their task,
and get us, probably, in ill odour with our customers,
whom we have taken extra pains to please. In
houses where prioe is of no momait, provided good
workmanship be obtained, the prinoipals can ensure
eflioient workmen, and can affind to pay them the
time they take in carrying out any plan of the cutter.
These, however, form the exoeptbn, unfoitunately,
in these days of competition, and not the rule.
I am, Kr, your obedient servant,

"Altba."

■<^e^

^^^

^^^^ ■g

oC2^ -

August 1, 1869.]

QAZETTB OF FASHION.

HUMOURED ALTERATION
IN THE UNIFORM OF THE ARMY.

Foi some time mmours hare been in circulation
of an intention, oa the part of the War-Office autho-
rities, to make an important alteration in the uni-
form of the army, by introducing a looser form of
tunic. We cannot, however, learn that as yet any
decision has been arrived at as to shape. The ques-
tion was recently mooted in the House of (Commons,
but nothing definite was obtained in reply. We
believe, however, that some experiments have been
made with a patrol-jacket, fastened round the waist
by a belt, but it has been confined to a few soldiers
of some of the regiments of the line, and as yet no
conclusion has been come to as to its advantages in
shape over ^e present tunic.

t«a>«aiww»**««M««««««

SHOOTING-DRESS.

In anticipation of the period when one of our
favourite national sports will be resumed generally
throughout Uie country, it is our duty to lay before
our readers illustrations of the newert and most
fashionable forms of costume for this particular pas-
time. We have, consequently, had one of the plates
which we issue with the present number prepared by
our artist with this special view, and have illus-
trated the two favourite forms of shooting-dress for
the season.

On the first figure we have represented the style
of jacket known as the "Norfolk Shirt,** or by some
as the " Sandringham Jacket.** We do not introduce
this form as a novtUy^ as of course our readers are as
well aware as ourselves that it has been for some few
years before the trade. Our motive for making it
the subject for illustration is, that it continues to bo
patronized, and, from its character and ease, will, in
all probability, long remain a favourite form for
shootiDg or to be worn in the country.

The Norfolk Shirt is made with a small stand"
collar, cut off at front, with a narrow turn-down
collar, and to button up hig^, or with a small roll-
collar, as represented on our plate. It is fiuteoed at
front by four buttons and holes, the buttcms not

being placed far in from the edge. A broad " box
plait is formed at t^ caitre of the back, extending
from the top to the bottom, and is sewn in with the
collar. A similar plait is formed down the front of
each forepart, also extending to the bottom of the
skirt, and is sewn in at the neck when the collar is
put OD, so as to retain the form of this particular
style of plait. A band is sewn on to the back at
each side of the centre plait, and is fiistened at front
round the waist by a button and hole. It is usual
to sew two buttons at one end of the belt, one behind
the other, to admit of the wearer using either to suit
his convenience. The sleeve is large, and gathered
on at the bottom to a narrow wristband, which is
fastened by a button and hole, and the comers
rounded off. A shoidder-strap of leather is sewn
on to the shoulder, to counteract the wear by the
friction of the barrel of the gun when carried.

There are pockets in the skirts, with deep flaps,
the ends rounded off, and one in each forepart, with
the opening of the welt parallel to the front-edge,
and kept closed by a button and hole. The fulness
of this garment is confined principally rmder the
arm by the belt. The edges are turned in, and
stitched rather broad.

For this form of shooting-dress, checked and broad
mixture Cheviots are best adapted, and show to
most advantage. A greater latitude of patterns
would be tolerated in this particular style than in a
fitting jacket, as that shown on the other figure.

The buttons are either covered, or made of horn
or smoked pearL

The waistcoat, to be worn with the Norfolk Shirt,
may be made in any shape to fimcy, as it is nearly
hidden. Perhaps a single-breasted waistcoat, cut to
the lengdi of that shown by the pattern we publish
in diagram, but made without a collar, and to button
up high, is the most appropriate. It can be made
of the same material and pattern as the '' shirt,** or
of drab or slate leather, which makes up very well.
There are generally four pockets with small flaps—
two on each forepart.

''Knickerbockers,** which are meet in keeping
with this form of shooting-jacket, are out as repre*
sented by the pattern on diagram 8. They are
gathered on to a narrow garter, and are fiutoaed

^J03

^"6^

QAZETTB OF FASHION.

[AOODST

below the kz»ee with a Bnudl bockk and strup* They
hxte awaifltband, and are made with a fly-froat.
Some have it atrap and bookie behind instead of
braees. There are tunally pockets in the side-Beams.

We have quite a difSereot style of jacket on the
other figure on this plate, which we have selected for
our pattern in diagram. It is cut long in the waist,
but, as we have before stated, the hip-buttons are
not i^ced at any considerable distance apart, nor is
the side-seam mudi sprung out at the bottom.

The back-soye is rather broad, liie toepart is
out quite easy to the measure, in &et many trades
out their shooting-jackets large enough at the waist-
seam to allow of their being buttoned. There is
rather a bold but short lapel, iht comer of which is
rounded off, and the end of the cc^r made to cor-
respond in style. Four buttons and holes are the
usual comple m ent at front. The skirt is short, and
only sufficiently full to give the necessary ireedom
OTer the hips. It is cut off at front to run with the
edge of the forepart, when not cut large enough to
iasten to the waist-seam, and the comers well rounded
off. There are flaps in the waist-seams with pockets
under, and one in each breast outside, with a broad
welt, or with fiaps. Some have '' pouchy-pockets
both to the £nreparts and skirts, and a small cap-
pocket with a fii^ only. The sleeve is full to below
the elbow, but moderately close at the hand. Cuffs,
or m^cOian cnfi, are worn, with a hole and button.

The lai^ and a^lish checks in '' heather '* and
'' CheTiot,** which hare been recently introduced to
the trade, are well adapted for shooting-jackets, and,
whea made up, have a very stylish sftpetawaco* The
vest and *^ Knickerbockers" may be made to match, or
the latter <mly, and the waistcoat of a different pat-
tern or materiaL The style of waisteoat iUnstrated
on this figure is that we have reeonEnended to be
worn with the Norfolk Shirt.

Ydv^een — an article of which we have now such
beantiiul epmmmM, aad in aitdi perfect colourings —
is much approved of by many eportamen, and oer-
tainly, when well made up, we know of bo artkile
which can coMtpete with it for eSeotf provided it be
vroni by a stylish man, with everything to corre-
spond. The rich shade ef brooae brown, and the
tail shade <if brown, are both in good taste.

MORNING-COATS.

We have represented two distinct forms of this
make of coat — one double-breasted, the other single-
breasted. The former is cut to a medium kngth in
the waist, and the back has no particular feature to
deserve noticing. The lapel, which is cut on to the
forepart, is l»road at top, and rather straight, but is
YGry narrow at the bottom, or, in aome oaaes, termi-
nates in a pointy as the front-edge of the forepart is
cut away at the bottom. There is not mudi round
added on at the outer edge in the centre. There are
five holes marked up, but the bottom one cannot be
used. The collar is still worn low in the stand, but
deeper in proportion in the fiill. It is cut off a little
at front, and square. The skirt reaches to bdow the
middle of the thigh. It is cut off to run with the
edge of the lapel, and rounded off at the bottom.
There are flaps in the waist-seam, of a moderate
depth, but it is not usual to have pockets under
them. The sleeve is cut easy, with a slight round
at the hind-arm, and with a cuff formed by a row
of stitching to correspond with the edges.

Cufls are coming into general wear; they are not
v^ry deep, and have one or two buttons. Sometimes
there are holes as well, but they are most frequently
made with the buttons sewn on only, or with a
button on both top and under rades.

The single-breasted morning-coat, as represented
on one of the figures, is much in the «ame style as
the double-breasted in general details, but has a
rather bold lapel cut on at top of the forepart only,
and not ext^iding b^ow the top hole. The ooraer
is wdl rounded off. There are four holes and but-
tons at front of the forepart. The skirt is rather
long in proportion to the body, and is cut off to run
witii the front-edge of the forepart. The collar is
rather deep in the fall, and heavy at front. The
skirts are made plain, without flaps at the waist-
seam.

Small checks and ribs in fancy coatings continue
to be the genend wear, in blue, mixture, and full
shades of brown.

Waisteoats for morning wear may be eathcr double
or single breasted, without a collar. We have diown
both styles. They should be cut moderately long at

-a€^

^^^

c<r:^t::aa B S ^ ;^:3^

AncrusT 1, 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASmON.

front, and, if single-breasted, the lower button should
be placed at a little distance from the bottom of the
wustcoat, and die front-edge cut off at an angle to
form a miniature skirt.

Double-breasted waistcoats are made to button up
with four buttons and hdes, or with three only,
according to the figure or age of the customer.

FROCK-COATS.

Our patrons are presented with the representation
of two styles of this garment: one — suitable to fine,
warm weather — single-breasted, with a handsome
roll-collar, and the turn at front extending almost to
the bottom of the forepart ; the other, double-breasted,
with a bold lapel and turn, and two buttons only
fiwtened.

The rolling collar, whether to a dress-coat, a
frock-coat, or to an Over-coat, always presents
a stylish appearance. It is particularly el^ant
in effect, and invariably tells to advantage if the
matexal of which the coat may be made is first class
in qoality and of an appropriate colour. We have
no novelty in detail to notice since we last described
this make of coat. We scarcely think that the round
of the lapel is qtute so decided as recently reported,
or that the turn of the front is so broad. As shown
on the figure, it is now sufiiciently wide and long for
effect.

The waist is moderate in length, and the skirt
short and plain. The coat is cut easy at the waist-
seam, but not very fiill at the chest. The collar is
low and rather deep, and the sleeve easy to the arm,
with a plain round cuff. The skirt of the rolling*
collar frock-coat is cut off at firont, so as to give a
lighter appearance to the coat generally, which is
not intended to be worn buttoned. The edges are
trimmed with a narrow silk braid, and the roll faced
wiih silk.

Morning-trousers, as shown on the different figures
on two of the plates, are cut straight to the 1^, but
to spring out a little on the foot Stripes and checks,
of various dimensiong and widths, continue the most
fashionable styles, and there is little doubt but they
wiU have a run in the winter goods. Borders may
be partially neglected in consecpience, as the two are
not necessary.

There are few tailors of any standing but must be
sensible of the great changes which have taken place
in the character of the several articles for dress worn
during the summer season, and cannot but remember
the style and makes of the different goods which
were formerly in fashion during the warm weather.
It is sometimes contended that our seasons have
undergone a decided change, and it is accounted for
on a scientific groimd. We are not sufficiently
learned to enter on to thb view of the question, but
have been struck with the change in this respect
within our memory.

Formerly printed quilting, thin *• padded " drill,
and "grass** cloth, were generally in wear during
the brighter days of the summer; and their colours,
both in appearance and wear, were duly appreciated
by the wearer.

Then, for trousers, we had nankeen, drill, and
gambroon, all of which were suitable and becoming.

For light frock-coats, ladies' cloth was commonly
made up for the summer. AH this had a decidedly
beneficial effect upon our trade, as, with the change
of weather, so a change of garments was necessary.

Now, when we have a run of warm weather, as
that with which we were lately visited, we hear of
complaints of heat in all directions, although the
opportunity for mitigating the amotmt of incon-
venience rested, to a certain extent, with the suf>
ferers themselves.

Our neighbours across the Channel are wiser in
this respect than ourselves, as they still retain the
articles which we have mentioned, and adopt some
of them even for coats.

What can possibly be more agreeable in wear, or
look more becoming for the country, than a white
drill jacket or morning-coat — a fiivourite dress for
gentlemen in France when in the country. Made
up smartly and with care, it has a very gentlemanly
appearance, and imparts a style to the wearer.

Nankeen is also used for this purpose, but princi-
pally in the shape of a lounge-jaoket.

The whole costume— coat, vest, and trousers — ^is
made of either of these materials.

Our correspondent and contemporary states in his
work, speaking of white drill for summer costume,
** It is always in good taste, and becomes every one

-^^G^

■

9^^^

■^€^^^S^&i^^^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

^€^

[August 1, 1869.

in easy circumstances. It may be worn in the
grounds of a country house, as also in the country,
and is freely admitted on visits to one's neighbours.
When the weather is a little overcast, and so clear
and delicate an article might appear a little incon-
sistent, alpaca in colours forms an agreeable substi-
tute, both for the coat and waistcoat, as, while not
contrasting with the temporary dullness of the wea-
ther, it possesses the qualities which render the drill
so pleasant in wear. It appears that the jacket, or
coat and waistcoat, whatever the article, are usually
made of the same, and the only relief is in the
pattern and style of the trousering.''

Writing on frock-coats, our contemporary remarks :
'' The frock-coat, when worn at dinner, or on occa-
sions when the etiquette of dress is observed, is
generally made of a superfine doth, in black or some
dark colour. The collar is very low, the turn mode-
rately wide, and turning sufficiently low to display a
large amount of the shirt or waistcoat. It is made
to fit in to the figure, and the waist is cut about two
inches below the natural length. The skirt is cut off
a little at front, so as to run with the front of the
lapel. The sleeve is of a medium size, and has a
round cufif, formed by a row of stitching similar to
that on the edges."

A much greater latitude is observed in France in
gentlemen's dress than in this country generally,
although we have recently witnessed some innova-
tions to which the eye does not become immediately
accustomed, and at which, for a time, our idea of
consistency is somewhat startled. We some short
time since, when writing on evening-dress, and on
dress-coats, remarked that black trousers might be
advantageously replaced by some light and pure colour,
and referred to the pale shade of drab and slate, or
grey, in doeskin, worn with dress-coats in France.
The idea has been borrowed in this country, as at
the h^eakfaet given by Her Majesty in honour of the
Pacha of Egypt, in the gardens of Buckingham
Palace, the gentlemen wore blue dress-coats with
gilt buttons, white wiustcoats, and grey trousers.
Court etiquetUf perhaps, required the dress-coat to
be worn, but the novel^ consisted in dispensing
with black trousers or breeches, and adoptbg a
colour which has hitherto only been tolerated with

a frock or morning coat. Afler the recent altera-
tions in Ck>urt-dress, we shall not be surprised to
find other changes in our present notions as easily
carried out.

•*•*«%«•*«<%*

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.

Plates 1411 and 1412.

Diagrams 1, 2, and 6, are the pattern of a
shooting -waistcoat. It is cut long, and single-
breasted, with a small collar to turn, and is made
to button up high.

Diagrams 3, 7, 10, 11, and 12, are the pattern of
one of the styles of shooting-jacket which are now
being prepared for the ensuing season by the leading
trades in town.

We are approaching the extreme length to which
the waist of a shooting-jacket used formerly to be
cut, but without, at the same time, adopting the
width at the bottom of the back, which at that
period characterized this form of garment. Shooting-
jackets are produced to fully an inch larger than the
real measure, so as to ensure perfect ease in the.
action of the body, and are cut quite easy at the
waist.

Diagram 8, is the pattern of a pair of " Knicker-
bockers," to complete the dress.

It will be observed, by comparing this pattern
with others that we have previously published, that
it is not cut with so much fulness as formerly was
fashionable. In other respects, the " Knickerbockers "
are made up as we have repeatedly described.

Diagram 4, illustrates the deviation recommended
to be made by our correspondent, ** Sartor," in his
Universal System, when producing a Chesterfield
Over-coat for one class of disproportionate figures
—viz., when the waist is out of proportion to the
breast.

Diagram 5, illustrates " Sartor's" system for pro-
ducing the sleeve of a Chesterfield.

Diagram 0, illustrates the plan of producing a
Chesterfield for a proportionately made man, and is
a continuation of the Universal System, by '' Sartor,"
now in the course of publication exclusively in our
pages.

.^e^^Sw!

August v^im

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 14II

Dia.1

•i

4Jf

S.<iV

J)ia5

7^2

•

«
•

2\\

1\ o

B'uvJ

h^mAA^n^iMmi^^AJm

EC Minister

^ust V^ 1869

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1412

H G

Imp. Michelet, 6, If duHazQvd, Fa::}

9JK9=s&»--

■««3ssaa^ss&»-

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

CUTTING KOOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

Vallont anD Kafcit ffUkttt lo |l^ti flK»\t%ts.
No.8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

Septehbeb 1, 1869.

Vtir Cclrctic Urttosaor^.

" A gathoKr nnd diipoiarof othci mcn'i itntT."— WollaK,

UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OF CUTTING.

By "SABTon."

{Cmlinued Jrom page 25.)

TO THE EDITOn OF THE " GAZETTE OF FASHION."
Silt,

I ehould have b«eii gratified if any comments had
been made, by some of your readers, on tlie prin-
ciple of my ByHtem, wliich you have lately published
in yonr pages, as I should then have been convinced
that it engaged the attention of a portion of your
numerous patrons. I will not, lioivever, deduce from
tills circumstance that my remarks have been passed
over as vrorthlesa, or as not containing any new
feature in cutting, but wait wiih patience the ap-
pearance in your work of any criiicisni, whether
favourable lo my views or condemnatory of my
method.

I am not so prejudiced in favour of my plan of

cutting as to &ncy it better than every other hitherto
invented, or that I alone have arrived at the height
of the science of our trade. I am perfectly aware
of my shortcomings in practice; and it was the
knowledge of that disagreeable fiict, which made me
anxious to discover some plan on which 1 might
place confidence, and lessen the uncertainty under
which I had previously laboured in cutting.

Having aAcr some little trouble succeeded, in my
own opinion, in framing a method which would bear
the test of practice, as I am not a teacher of cutting,
and therefore not likely to be aSected by my plan
being made known to the trade generally, I unhesi-
tatingly sent it to you for circulation, supposing you
discovered anything in it which woiUd induce you
to give it Ihe publicity its appearance in your far-
famed work would ensure.

As I have before stated, it is simple; the devia-
tions for disproportion in figure are sufficiently
clear; and it is not confined to any fixed style.

As my further contribution to your pnges, I now
forward the directions, according to n)y system,

!KES3«a*-

^^<;ses^^9s&*~

<»T-^ mf

GAZETTE OP FASHION.

[September 1, 1869.

To Pboduce a " Sac " Over-coat.

Diagram 9.

To Draft the Back.

As in the directions published in your last number,
for determining the size to which this or any other
loose form of coat shall be proportioned, relatively to
the actual measure of the customer, I will merely
repeat that it must be left; to the judgment of the
cutter, or regulated by the style or material of which
the coat is made, to Bx the size which is considered
necessary to be substituted for the actual breast-
measure, according to the compass which is required
in the coat. At the same time, additional width in
the coat may be given without necessarily producing
the whole of the garment larger.

Draw the line A F, and on it, at B, mark one-
sixth of the size to which the coat is to be propor-
tioned; at C, one-fourth; at D, one-half; at E, the
natural length of wabt; and at F, the full length of
the coat. At E, mark outwards from the line any
quantity which may be determined for compass —
say, for instance, 2 J inches — ^and draw a line from
A, through this point, continued to P, at the bottom
of the coat, for the centre of the back. As it is
usual to cut the back whole, this new line will repre-
sent the double edge of the cloth; consequently, if it
be preferred to produce the back at once from the
cloth, the point E must first be marked in from the
edge, according to the fulness to be given in the
coat.

In continuation of the line A F, mark up above A,
three-quarters of an inch; and, square with A F,
mark from this point to G, one-sixth of the breast,
for the width of the top of the back.

From C, square with A F, draw the line C K.
Mark on it, at I, 1 inch less than half the breast for
the width of back, as this style of coat is always pro-
duced easy; and at K, two-thirds of the breast.
Draw a line from G, through K, to determine the
position of the actual shoulder-seam, or of one to
deviate from, according to fancy.

To determine the proportionate width of back,
according to the amount of fulness which it was in-
tended to introduce into the coat, and which regu-
lated the quantity marked out from E, square with
A F, draw the line D M, and make the width

between diese two points one inch more than half
the breast. Mark on the line drawn from the point
above A, to H, half the quantity marked out from

E, «nd draw a line from H, through M, for the
spring at the bottom of the side-seam. This does
not necessarily fix the width of the back at the
bottom, but whatever alteration in width is made
from that determined by the direction of the Hue
from H, the same quantity must be added or de-
ducted from the width of the forepart. Shape the
top of the back from A to G, and the back-scye firom
the end of the shoulder-seam. Make G a pivot, and
cast the bottom of the back from F.

To Produce the Forepart.

Having marked the several points, B, C, and D,
raise the shoulder-seam about an inch above the line
drawn from G, through K, to give a certain length
which adds grace to the hang of the coat, supposing
the shoulder-seam of the back to have been allowed
to remain as drafted, or, if otherwise, mark the addi-
tion or deduction necessary to preserve the balance.

Mark from M, on the line D M, to L, one-eighth
of the breast, and upwards, from L, one-twelfth of
the breast. Form the scye — ^having measured the
width of the shoulder-seam of the bock — through
the point above L, to M, lowering it a little from the
line between L and M, and a little in advance of the
point I, on the line C K. Draw a line from H,
through M, and continue it to the bottom of the
side-seam. Add on beyond D, at front, two to two
and a half inches, and half as much more at Q, from

F. Draw a line through these two points, and add
beyond it whatever quantity may be required for
width of lapel, or for the buttons to stand in from
the edge, if the coat be single-breasted. Fcom the
neck from G, through B, and continue it to the top
of the lapel, but deducting about three-quarters of
an inch for a Y. Cast the bottom of the fofepart by
a pivot made at A.

To Produce the Sleeve.
Diagram 11.
The directions I gave for producing the sleeve of a
Chesterfield Over-coat, will equally apply to the
'^ Sac ; '^ but as some of your readers may not be in
possession of your August number, I will repeat my
instructions.

^9^

^S9^

cQ^^ -

{}

SeFTEMBCS 1^ 186^.]

GAZETTE OF JASBiaS.

I>raw the Hne A F. Mark on it, at B, one-third
of the hacaft-meaaiire; at C, die widdi fttmi G to I,
on the back; at D, one-eighth leas dum the breast;
at E, AojT an inch more than the meaanre taken to
the dbo«r; and at F, haifm inch more than the full
length of the sleere, to aUow for the seams when
sewing in die sleeve.

Make a pirot at B, and cast the segment of a
ciicle from D; intersect it at H, by the segment of a
ctrde east from B, making D the pivot. Shape the
deeve-head from C, intercepting the casting fh>m B
to Hy at I, which is plaeed one iach nearer to B than
to H. Cast from F for bottom of sleeve, making a
jHVOt at C, and intersect the casting at G, by half
the breast-measnre. Mark backwards from G, the
width the sleeve is to be cot at the bottom, and
shape hind-arm and fore-arm to fashion.

As the s^e of the forepart is rather small, in con-
sequence of the width of back, the sleeve-head need
not be so round as in other forms of coats ; and as
the quantity from the line A F, opposite to G, is
simply allowed on for additional compass in the back,
it ahoold not be taken as a part of the width of the
back in fixing the pootion of the point G, but only
the width from C to I, as we have directed.
Altebatioks ygr DisPBOPOBTioir IN Relativb Size

OF Waist akd Breast.

I have not ccmsidered it necessary to give a special
diagram to illustrate the directions for effecting the
necessary alteraUona in the shape of the forepart, as
a reference to that published in your last number
will sufficient^ explain my plan.

It must be borne in mind that the alteration
made fi>r disproportion in the relative size of Uie
breast and waist, is made quite independently of the
allowance directed to be made for excess of width
for ttjfle only ; but as corpulent men do not require
their clothes produced either so large to their mea^
sure, or with so much fulness as thin or proportion-
ately made men, the cutter can exercise his judgment
in adding on at front, beyond D, on the line A F,
as also in the qxmntity taken into account when de-
teroumng the position of the point U, to govern the
direction of the spring^Hne for the side-seams.

When drafUng the diagram to show my method
for making the alteratioDS necessary for a corpulent

figure, I selected certain measures, which, aldiough
rather to the extreme, still were suited to my pur-
pose on that occasion. I do not, however, conceive
that any cutter, when measuring a man of such dis-
proportions J would advise him to adopt the "Sac"
form of Over-coat^ as the compass in it — and which,
unquestionably, on well-made men, gives the cha-
racter to the style — ^would have the ^bct of making
the disproportion in the siae of the waist still more
apparent, by the quantity of cloth which would ne-
cessarily be in tiie coat A moderately dose-fitting
Ghesterfield form of Over-coat would be far more
appropriate in appearance. I merely mention this
in case any of your readers might, without reflect-
ing, take the same extreme measures to draft a dis-
proportionate '* Sac.**

{To be continued,)

TO THE editor OP THE '' GAZETTE OF FASHION.**

Deas Sir,

Your correq>ondent, "M. T.,*' whose inquiry
appeared in your last month's number, is not the only
cutter who has been puzzled, when required to pro-
duce a pair of riding-trousers for a lady.

The ^ lady*s-maid *' usually comes in to his assist-
ance, but the necessary information is not always at
command ; and in that dilemma he is reduced to his
judgment, as to the proper lengths and widths.

In my practice, I have found it safe to allow rather
more than half of the waist more for the circum-
ference of the seat, instead of one-sixtli only, as
usually the proportion in men. For the length of
leg^seam, the measure taken from the centre of the
back to the small of the wrist, or where the hand is
attached to the arm, will be found, in the majority
of cases, a safe guide. The rise may easily be
ascertained, by the measure taken from above the
hip to the length of side-seam.

I do not say that this is an infallible guide, as
some ladies — like men — ^have disproportionate arms
in length to their height; but, as a rule, this
measure will be found of great assistance. Provision
can easily be made, when trying on, for any devia*
tion from this proportion.

Any of your readers can satisfy himself of the pro-

9^s*

--fe^s

-^€^$^8®^^^^

GAZETTE OP FASmON,

-^^e^

[September 1, 1869.

bability of tbis measure corresponding with the

length of leg-seam, by trying it on several of his

customers, of different heights, or by referring to his

" measure-book."

I am, dear Sir,

Yours fuiU) fully,

" X."

—»«<»»■ «<»»«I«*«»W«— »»»»%— «i»<»

PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETY OF MASTER-
TAILORS OF PARIS.

On a former occasion, when referring to this
society, "which is composed of the principal tailors
in Paris and the large provincial towns in France,
with a few members in foreign countries, we noticed
the circumstance of a sub-committee being formed, of
a few of the leading members, to superintend the exe^
cution, each season, of a plate to illustrate the several
styles which the society recommended to be adopted
by its members. We alluded to the brevity of the
descriptive matter which accompanied the coloured
plate, as, in our opinion, scarcely sufficient for the
purpose in view in issuing it. We have lately been
placed in direct communication with the society, and,
having made an exchange of our '^ Report of English
Fashion** for their special report of their own parti-
cular styles, it may be of some interest to our readers
to have a resume given to them. We are, of course,
perfectly aware that the information can be of no
value to our patrons, so far as the practicability of
their adopting the styles in their respective con-
nexions. We do not offer our observations with any
such idea, as, considering that copies of the plate are
only supplied to members of the society, and that
they are requested not to communicate the informa-
tion outside the mystic circle, we should be guilty of
an unpardonable abuse of the privilege especially
accorded to us, in divulging any of the secrets of the
select committee.

It is the fact that the summer season is over that
induces us to refer now to the contents of this plate,
and more with a view to drawing a comparison be-
tween the styles adopted in this country, and also by
us introduced all over the Continent, and the special
styles which this body of leading trades agree to
adopt themselves.

The plate consists of ten full-length figures, care-

fully drawn, illustrating the several styles of dress
for evening wear, promenade, n^UgCj riding, and
ladies* riding-habits.

For evening-drefis the committee recommended a
blue dress-coat, moderately long only in the waist,
lapel of a medium width, with five holes worked in
it A long and bold turn to the front of the coat,
extending to the waist-seam, and to lie fiat on the
chest. The collar low in the stand, and narrow, and
worked up to sit snug to the neck. Frock end, and
sloped off, and square. The top of the lapel rather
pointed and square. The sleeve easy to the arm
only, and with a medium width round cuff. The
skirt short, rather narrow at top, but wider at the
bottom in proportion. Gilt buttons ; cloth collar and
facings ; skirts only lined with silk. £dg(*8 turned
in and stitched.

White quilting waistcoat, with a roll-collar, open-
ing very low, and fastened with three buttons and
hcles.

Grey dress doeskin trousers, fitting easily to the
leg, but not straight

Frock-coats for dress, of black cloth, moderate
lapel, with five holes in it; long turn to the bottom,
and broad. The end of the collar of the same
width as the top of the lapel, and with but little
light between. Short skirt and scanty. Waist
rather short Easy sleeve, but without any tendency
to the "peg-top" style. Round cuff, as for dress.
Silk breast-facing to the back of the holes. Pkin
edges, and side-edges to the plaits.

Another is made of a narrow diagonal rib in a
bronze shade of brown, buttoned up with two but-
tons at front, and tlie silk lapel-facings cairicd to
the very edge.

The hip-buttons are rather wide apart, and the
back broad at top. The side-seam is moderately
curved, and the back-scye of the average depth.

Waistcoat of white drill or quilting, double-
breasted, with a broad rolling collar; cut mode-
rately long, and a little pointed at front. Four holes
in the lapel.

Morning-trousers are plain in style, but made to
fall a little on the boot We do not notice any
borders at the side-seams. They are either made up
plain or with a narrow lapped seam.

?(i<

\1 p7

Septembeb If 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

MomiDg-coats are represented single-breasted.
Short in the waist, and in the skirt. Fastened
at top with one button and hole only, and but a
small turn ; or with a bold turn, and the second from
the bottom of the four holes at front only fastened.
The lapel is quite as wide as on the frock-coat, and
Uie collar is of the same shape and form. The front
of the forepart is cut away from the hole, and the
skirt made to run with ir. The comers are either
rounded off or square to fiincy. The edges are
turned in, and stitched narrow. There are no Haps to
the skirts, either in the waist-seara or below. The
sleeves are represented as merely easy to the arm,
and plain at the hand, without either cuff or button.

As a light Over-coat, the Chesterfield form is
recommended. Cut rather loose to the body, and
short. The back of a moderate width, and a short
opening led at the bottom of the back -seam, with a
ketch. Single-breasted, with a fly at front, and four
holes. A bold anu long turn ; narrow and low collar,
with a small square end well sloped off*. Edges stitched
narrow. Pockets across the front of the skiits, with
small flaps, and one outside the Icfl breast, with a
narrow welt. Medium sleeve, with a round cuff.
Fronts of foreparts faced with a narrow strip of
cloth like the coat, and striped silk to meet it.

The style of riding-habit suggested for the season
is single-breasted, buttoned up rather high, and with
a small lapel to turn back on to the breast. The
waist short, and the hip-buttons wider apart than we
are accustomed to place them in this country. The
side-seam cur^-ed to an average extent, and the back-
scye deep. The back not cut very broad across to
the sleeve-head. Full sleeve, easy at the hand, and
plain. The small jacket-skirt rounded at the bottom,
and the top extending along a portion of the forepart,
towards the front-edge. The train is cut to much the
same length as made in our best trades, but there is
ratlier more fulness in the upper part of it. A rich
shade of green, in superfine cloth, is advised. The
edges are quite plain, and merely stitched.

It would be quite an impossibility to make up
garments plainer than the sub-committee reeommend
to the members of tlie society. In tliis respect the
styles present a marked diff*erence compared with the
amount of trimming used in our best houses; and one

cannot but remark that our styles evidently suggest
those which our friends are advised to adopt, as they
bear so close a resemblance as to leave out all doubt
of their origin.

We fear our subscribers would find fault with us,
as publishers, were we not to give them more in-
formation each season than the members of the
Master-Tailors' Society of Paris have furnished to
them in their half-yearly report. Those details
which to a tailor, either at home or abroad, are of the
most vital importance, would appear to be entirely
disi*egarded, or, if touched upon, are slurred over in
so brief a manner as to render the information next
to useless. In oiu: opinion, it is not sufficient to
issue a coloured illustration of the newest styles ; they
should be accompanied with that particular informa-
tion which is to enable the tailor to make up his
trade to correspond with the representations, other-
wise the coloured plate is but a picture to show cus-
tomers as the types of the new styles.

.>■■■«■««■

CLEMENTS'S

PATENT DAMPING APPARATUS FOR THE

CUTTING-ROOM AND WORKSHOP.

Few of our readers but must, in the course of
their connexion with the trade, have experienced
the annoyance caused by undamped or imperfectly
damped goods, and have had complaints from their
customers of the patches of gloss on their coats
or trousers, or of the dull appearance, in places,
from the effect of a passing shower. In some trades,
to ensure their goods being well or specially damped,
a holland sheet is saturated, and the cut folded up in
it, and allowed to remain for a given time. This,
however, is but a slow process, and could not be
carried out in a business of any magnitude. It is
an old saying that ** necessity is the mother of inven-
tion,** and we presume that the knowledge of the
annoyances to which we have referred may have, in
some measure, suggested to the inventor of the
Patent Damping Apparatus the idea of providing a
means within the reach of every tailor to effect the
damping of his own goods.

We all know the time a journeyman expends in
pressing, on a damped cloth, during the pr(>gres8 of

j:Ky>

^^^

Og7

*€^

^cD^

■eO^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[Septjuiber ly 18^0

making a garment; it is this loss of time that the
isreator clatms to save, independently of performing
the task in a more efficient manner by the assistance
of his Hand Damping Brush, as he gives the com-
parative time occupied by his patent as ten minutes,
to four hours by hand or the old method by the
iron.

The steam generator is a cylinder half filled with
water, which is heated by means of a gat ring, with
jets placed underneath. In the lid is fixed a short piece
of piping, with a cock, and to it is attadied a flexible
tube. When tlte steam is generated, it passes through
this tube to the end of the handle of a large brush,
and then through it, communicating with the bristles.
Whilst this is evaporating, the brush is moved gently,
in the direction of the nap, over the surface, and the
result is, to use the inventor's own words — " The
garment, when finished, is as smooth and well pressed
as if the gloss led by the iron had not been removed ;
the streaky and patchy appearance of the garment,
which cannot be prevented under the old system, is
quite removed, and the raising and thickening of the
edges and seams entirely obviated."

Another invention is the Steam Counter Brush,
which is to be used on a counter, for damping goods
in the piece. The apparatus consists of two long
brushes, on a frame, which is fixed by screws to the
counter, and the flexible tube from the steam
generator is affixed to one end. The steam then
travels along the brushes, and the piece of goods is
passed over them by the hand, and gathered up on
to the board while the process of steaming and
brushing is going on. Tlie whole of the piece — no
matter what bngth it may be— is, by this means,
thoroughly well damped and shrunk ; and, " by being
wrapped on the board during the process, the goods
have a first-class appearance given to them."

««i*»«««»«a«**iMM««*.«««*««w»**«*

THE REPORT OP FASHION.

The work which we publish under the above
title, is not merely what its name would suggest — a
chronicler of the prevMling styles of the day — but
takes a high standing, in conveying to posterity an
accurate delineation of the fashion of the past. Its
importance in this respect can be better appreciated,

when we rekx to the illustration of the etmtmna of
any period in the history of our own <^ of aoy
foreign eonntiy.

With the paJpaUe inaccuracies in the details oi
costume made by our modern artists in tiMxr por-
traits of men, their works could noi at any future
period be referred to as illustrating the dress of the
ago in which they were executed, or be taken as an
authority on that subject We have a right to pre-
sume, then, that the old artists committed equally
as many blunders in detail in their representation of
dress, although we must bear in mind the picturesque
character of the costume of past centuries.

Artists, as a rule, object to sacrifice the eSsct of
their works by laying too much or sufficient stress
on hard details, as their ideas and those of tailors are
frequently at variance. We should, perhaps, have
said tcere, as there can be no question but that in
real taste our trade has made rapid strides \vithin
the last twenty years.

A work, therefore, which combines the talent of
the artist with the technical knowledge of detail of
the practical tailor, must necessarily possess a quality
which should at once establish its present and iutnre
value as a faithful illustration of the costume of the
time when it was published. Such a distinction we
claim for our work, the " Report of Fashion,^' which
has now been before the trade for nearly fifty
TEARS, and is acknowledged ns the only chronicler of
fabliion on which any reliance may be placed for
correctness of detail and description.

It is, as we profess it to be, a faithful exponent of
the prevailing styles of the season, and not a mere
picture illustrating certain forms which were never
met with in society, and only engendered in the
fanciful brain of the publisher. The celebrity our
work has acquired all over the Continent, as well as
ill oiu: own countr}', is the best proof we can advance
of the truth of our remarks, and of the high opinion
ill which it is held by tailors generally, who present
it to their customers with the utmost confidence in
its correctness, and, at the same time, place before
them the representa^n of such styles as will reflect
credit on the wearer, as wdl as on the producer.

The '< Report of Fadiion*' for the fbrthooming
Autumn and Winter will be published, as usual.

2-^

<^<J^

cot^iBa w c s ''^^^^

BcpmiBEB ly 18C9.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

towards ihe end of the present mon£h, as the plate,
in the hands of our own special engravers, is in an
advanced state.

We need not txrge anything more in its paise, than
to state that the execution of the drawings by our
artist, and the careful manner in which they hare
been transferred to the copper, will be found fully
equal to any of our previous issues. The various
forms of dress for the seasons will be found carefully
and artistically delineated, and will comprise — Even-
ing costume, with a suggestion for a new style of
dress for evening wear; morning-dress; hunting and
shooting dress; Over-coats of various styles, and in
the newest and most fashionable makes; youths'
and children's dress, and riding costume. The pat-
terns in full size, and those reduced to a scale for the
convenience of being carried out to various sixes by
the Graduated Measures, will be of the most useful
shapes, and at the same time illustrate the different
fashionable styles for the season. These will be
accompanied by a letter-press description of the
several details connected with fashion and making
up, and a comprehensive review of the New Goods
collected from the leading houses.

The subscription for the year, if paid in advance,
is £1 Is., which will entitle the subscriber to a oopy
of the forthcoming " Report," and one for ihe Spring
and Summer of next year. A single copy is charged
12& 6d. All copies are forwarded post free to all
parts of the United Kingdom, and to the Channel
Islands; and to all places abroad, excepting Spain,
at the " book-post" tariff, which does not exceed Is.
ih any instance. Copies preferred to be sent for
inclosure with goods should be early advised.

COSTUME OF THE MONTH.

The present is one of the periods of the year when
trade is quiet, and Fashion for a time indulgent in her
rule. In the intervening time between the close of
the summer season and the approaching winter, there
is but little scope for much variety in dress; we have
merely to chronicle a few styles made to suit the
weather and circumstances peculiar to the time.

Recognizing our duty to give place to the ladies,
we have one of the figures published on the plates

for the present month, illustrating a becoming and
tasteful style of jacket for ladies* out-door wear. It
is in the same shape as the pattern we issue in our
present collection, with the exception of a difference
in the front, by being made without a collar or lapels.
As seen by the drawing, it forms an elegant jacket,
and the design of trimming introduced on the edges,
and up the openings of the side-seams, adds to the
general effect.

When frock-coats are worn in the country in place
of morning-coats, they are usually made of some
fancy coating, or of Tweed or Melton, and in light
colours and mixtures, as they are not intended, under
such ciicumstances, to be dressi^ in character. The
lapel may be cut on to the forepart, and of moderate
width, and the coat worn buttoned up to the middle
of the chest by three of the five buttons. The waist
is cut from an inch and a half to two inches longer
than the natural length, and the skirt short and flat,
as the coat is quite easy to the waist. The collar is
low in the stand, but rather deeper in the fall than
we have lately reported. The sleeve is easy to the
arm, and made with a round cuff, but a button sewn
on to the top-side. The edges are double- stitched.

We have represented a novel form of lounge-
jacket on the first figure on one of our plates. It
is cut in the form of a " patrol "-jacket, but low in
the neck, and cut off at top like a waistcoat without
a collar. It is fastened all the way down by four
buttons and holes, and the comers of the front-edge
slightly rounded off. The sleeve is rather wide, and
plain at the hand. Two or three narrow braids are
sewn on to the edges, and a certain distance up the
hind-arm-seam. There are pockets at front across
the foreparts, and a breast-pocket outside.

The trousers are made of the same material as the
jacket, cut easy to the leg, and the side-seams
trimmed to correspond with the edges.

Serge or fancy coating may be uied with good
effect for this costume.

The double-breasted morning-coat represented on
the other figure on the same plate, is available for
the present season as well as that which is to follow,
the difference being made in the substance of the
article in which it is made up. The waist is inclined
to be short, and the hip-buttons not far apart. The

*€2ie^

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

[September 1, 1869.

back-scye and width of back across to the sleeve-
head are moderate. The lapel is of the average
Tvidth, and cut on to the front-edge. There are fire
hples worked in it. The collar is as described for
the frock-coat. The skirt reaches to about half way
down the thigh, is flat, and rounded off at the
bottom. There are flaps in the waist-seam, with
pockets under. Sleeve free to the arm, with a round
cufll The edges are turned in, and stitched a little
way in.

The single-breasted morning-coat is very similar
in detail, but is of a lighter appearance. There are
only two buttons and holes at front of the forepart,
and the turn is long. The lapel is fully as broad as
that shown on the double-breasted coat. The skirt
is much shorter, and more cut off at the bottom.
The cuff has two buttons in it.

Morning-waistcoats are still made without collars,
and both single and double-breasted. They are
neither long nor short, and not very pointed at front.

Trousers have not lately undergone any change in
style. They are cut to hang easily to the leg, and to
lie freely on the foot.

We offer to our patrons an illustration of a very
smart style of dress for boys. It consists of a loose
jacket, a small skirted waistcoat, and ''Knicker-
bockers."

The jacket is opened at the bottom of the side-
scams, the corners of which arc rounded off. It is
fastened at top by a hook and eye, or by one hole
and button. It has no collar, and the neck is
lowered at front. The bottom of the front-edge is
well rounded off; in fact, the front-edge of the fore-
part is cut away from a little below where it is
fastened at the neck. There are pointed flaps across
the foreparts, and a small pointed slash in the top-
side sleeve, without a cuff. The edges are trimmed
with a band of a different colour and material, with
small fancy buttons sewn along the centre. The
slashes in the sleeve and the flaps on the foreparts
are of the same.

The waistcoat is made without a collar, single-
breasted, and with small skirts.

The " Knickerbockers " are cut in the usual shape,
and the side-seams trimmed to correspond with the
edges of the jacket.

This dress may be made up in light-coloured
Tweeds and angolas, either plain or with a small
pattern, as a stripe or rib.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.

Plates 1416 and 1417.

Diagrams 1, 2, G, 8, and 13, are the pattern of a
double-breasted morning-coat, and one of the styles
which will be worn during the ensuing season.

Diagrams 3, 4, 5, and 10, are the pattern of a
very smart style of jacket, suitable to little boys
from 12 to 13 J breast. We have illustrated on it a
very effective style of trimming, which may be
carried out in quarter-inch braid, or by two tracing-
braids, if preferred.

Diagrams 7, 12, and 14, are the pattern of an
elegant form of jacket for ladies* out-door wear. It
may be made up in serge. Melton, Tweed, or in
superfine cloth, and in light or dark colours. The
fronts, collar, and cuffs may be faced with a colour
totally different from that in the body of the jacket,
and the edges may be bound with the same. The
buttons should be of a large size, and of the domed
shape, and covered with the material of which the
facing is made.

The several quantities affixed to the different
points on this and the preceding pattern, correspond
with the fractional divisions on the Graduated Mea-
sures, and not with those on the ordinary taps
measure.

Diagrams 9 and 11, illustrate the method of pro-
ducing a " Sac " form of Over-coat, by the " Uni-
versal System of Cutting," contributed by " Sartor,"
and is a continuation of the application of his system
generally to the garments in use. His method for
drafting dross and frock coats, and Chesterfields, will
be found in the preceding numbers of our work
exclusively, and his communication will be con-
tinued through subsequent numbers until the com-
pletion of his plan of cutting.

MMI»««l**««*l*«*l*l.«*«l»W««l»M>«Mr«MMi«M«l««K*>»

l:» c

-*€^eg2?S^^

Seplcmber 1609

©A^IE^TTE ©IF IFi\SieiI[(DM'

BT EDWUID MINISTER tm SON.

.J,..f:.,4y^// ML, '/lij,,,,^ y^,/ ir

ScplcmberlBO'l

(BAmmTTTm ®i wi^mmjims

BT EDWiUlD MINISTER AHS SON.

Septeml)erl''1869

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1416

Di<i-4

J)ia,2

Dia5

Dla.5

T/;y^-- Kt

E C. Mijjjs/er

jptember If 1869

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1417

Diw J 3

M M/rMf. o.r.ia/fszird, Pj/rs

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

No.8, ARGYLL PLAC£. REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

NOTICE TO OtJR HEADEKS.

Our readers will observe that, oa the plates iBBued
with the prevent number of our work, we hare bad
the title and date printed on the top, inst«ad of at
the bottom as formerly. We have been induced to
make this alteration in our form to afford additional
facilities to our patrons.

We bave the special privil^^, granted by the
Postmaster-General, to forward our work aa a news-
paper, subject to onr complying with the UEOal
leqnirementa of that department, sach aa the title
and date being printed at the top of every page. We
have each month prepared ■ certain number of the
plates in this manner, for the colonies and places
abroad, but as we limited the number to our own
demand, it neoeaaitated any of our subscribers — who
might wish to transmit a copy to tbeir friends abroad
—to avail themselvea of tlie medium of the " book
post." This entailed an additional expense in postage.

By our new arrangement, evmy copy issued each
month can be forwarded by post to any of our

colonies, and to all places abroad, if folded in covers
open at the ends, and with merely tbe_ name and
address of tlie person to whom it is to be delivered.
The copies must also be posted within foubteek
DATta of the day of publication, otherwise the privi-
lege will be forleited. Each packet must contain
only one copy of our monthly work, uulcas a suf-
ficient number of labels are affixed to correspond
with the copies in the wrapper. The cost for postage
varies according to the country.

To any place in the United Kingdom, tJte Channel
Islands, and to moat parts of the Continent, a penny
postage label is sufficient.

Copies for Italy, Hamburg, Turkey, India, China,
the Australian Colonies, and Spain, require two
labels for each copy. For Japan, three labels are
necessary. Rusua is B special exception, news-
papers only being allowed to be received from this
or any foreign country by privileged persons. Copies
of otir work may, however, be forwarded to any jiort
<£ Russia by " book post," at a charge of 4d. each
copy, in plain covers, with the ends open.

SSSffc^-

-*e26SS8!eS9<s

-*esa

9^^

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

^^e^

[October 1, 1869.

"A gatherer and disposer of other mcn*s stuff."— WotUm,

to the editor of the "gazette of fashion."
Sir,

I am much obliged by the favour of your letter,
informing me that one of your correspondents at
Calcutta disputes my claim to being the inventor
of the " Universal System of Cutting," published
by you in the pages of your monthly work, the
Gazette of Fashion; and, further, that he takes
credit to himself for having invented it and cut by it
" more than six years ago."

In justice to myself and to your readers, I have to
beg the favour of space, in an early number of your
work, to allow me to assert distinctly that the system
referred to is entirely my own invention, and that I
never saw it before, nor was I aware that the prin-
ciple had ever been used by any other cutter, I do
not, however, dispute the assertion of your corre-
spondent that he knew it, but simply desire to absolve
myself from the charge of pirating the ideas of
another, and taking to myself the credit of
originating.

It is not ^n imusual occurrence for two persons to
conceive the same idea without the slightest com-
munication passing between them at the time. They
may be in two different parts of the globe, and yel
through some incident the very same plan may sug-
gest itself to each of them, and both be equally
entitled to the credit of the conception when car-
ried out.

I am not acquainted with many systems of cutting,
BO that my mind was free from the diiFerent rules of
woridng them; but purely from a desire to fiwne
some plan for my own practice, founded upon the
experience acquired in my own connexion, was the
incentive to prosecute my task.

Finding myself justified in making it generally
known, I submitted it to yon for publicatioa if
deemed desirable; and you may be quite sure, from
your personal knowledge of me, that I could not be
guilty of deceiving you, by palming on yoa as my
own production that which I knew emanated from
the brain of some other cutter.

Apologizing for the trouble I have given you, but
trusting that you will, in consideration of the pecu-
liarity oi the circumstances, pardon my trespassing
on your time and space,

I am, Sir,

Your obedient servant,
The Author of the Universal System

OF Cutting.

Our readers will perceive, by a letter from the
author of the " Universal System of Cutting" — por-
tions of which have appeared in some of the pre-
ceding numbers of our work — that a correspondent
has written to us disputing the >ight of " Sartor "
to the authorship of that system, and states that
he invented it, and cut by it six years ago. We
thought it due to our readers, ourselves, as also to the
author, to give him immediate notice of the receipt
of the communication, withholding, as is our invari-
able practice, the name of the writer. We felt naturally
that if the charge made by our Calcutta correspondent
were well grounded, that we had been imposed upon
by " Sartor ; " although, from our intimate know-
ledge of him, and the high esteem we entertain for
his upright conduct on all occasions, we could not
bring ourselves to believe the truth of the accusation
against him. It is, therefore, with great pleasure
that we aflford space, at the very earliest possible
opportunity, for the inaertion of the author's comi^e
refutation.

We fully endorse the remark of *< Sartor," on the
possibility of the same idea impressing itself on the
minds of difierent persons, without the least concert
between them. We have known and heard ef
several instances of this coincidence; consequently
we do not wish to detaet from the credit which oar
Calcutta eorreqrondent claime for any merit attached
to the arrangement o£ the plan of cutting.

It would, however, be satisfactcNry if he would
inform us his method of deviating for laige waiata,
and if his system were adapted— aa'* Sartor ** infiunns
us hk is — to die difSsreiit gamento in general use.
This would be very knportant, ae these xi%ht be a
similarity in tiM working of the two sjatema whileai
the same time titere night be an eeaeiitia] ii&SKmce
in some of (he detailf aad reanltB.

^d^

OcroBCB 1, Id^.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

Wc ln»t our Calcotta correspondent will faroor
us and our readers with an e^rly acknowledgment of
our observmtions, and set our minda at ease with
respect to having been deceived as to the authorship
of fdbe system we have partly published.

" Sartor 8 " explanation of his method will be re-
sumed in the Norembcr number.

««»»«*» I iiii» »

ANDERSON'S REGISTERED "DELTOID"

SHIRT.

Although we have never taken any notice, in our
woik, of shirts or shirt-cutting, considering the great
in^urovement which has taken place in the form, and
the evident study which the best cutters of this gar-
ment have given to adapting the shape to the require-
ments of the figure, we cannot ignore the importance
of this progress in the comfort to the wearer, the
advancement of the art must necessarily afford*

We have from time to time had specimens of
shape and style forwarded to us by various corre-
fpondents, but have never thought it advisable to
publish any, as but few tailors comparatively trouble
themselves with making shirts. There are, how-
ever, instances when we feel that we should make an
exoq>tion from our rule, in consideration of the
superiority in cut, or of other advantages which the
particular shape of the shirt possesses. The form
just registered by our old correspondent, Mr. John
Anderson, of Edinburgh, whose name is ^miliar to
the majority of our readers, is one of these excep-
tional oases, as the " Dsltoid ** Shirt is evidently the
production of an artist who is perfectly acquainted
with the anatomy of the human %ure, and, from a
long study and attention to the actions of the various
muscles brought into play, has been convinced of
the imperfect arrangement and shape of the shirts
generally in wear. As usual with everything he
undertakes, he most of a necessity throw his whole
aoul into it to bring it to the nearest possible
approach to perfection, and we consider the shape
mod ammgement he has combined in the Deltoid
JShirt will be admitted superior to any other, or, at
all events, to the majority of those made by regtdar
skirt-makers*

Mr. Anderson fairly describes the advantages which
his shirt possesses, when he states that, " having for
a long time carefully studied the anatomy of the
human frame, especially tlte movements of the Deltoid
muscle, situated at the front of tlie arm, he has pro-
duced a shirt, which fits most gracefully, yields to
every movement of the great and important muscle
afler which his invention is named, and is free from
the endless folds of the less scientifically made article
generally worn, and of which the ' Sac * would seem
to have been taken for a model, totally disregarding
the graceful curves and angles necessary to be pro-
duced to fit properly to the arm of any form
i^pproaching in make to the figure of the Apollo
Belvidere.*' The distingubhing features of his regis-
tered Deltoid Shirt recommend it to the notice of the
sportsman, the golfer, the cricketer, and to the
volunteer, as, while it affords perfect freedom from
the least constraint, it provides with ease for every
action of the arm, and, from the superiority in shape
and fit, it ensures an amount of comfort which has
hitherto been unattainable in any other form of this
garment.

From a sample in striped flannel sent us for our
inspection, we perceive that the sleeve is sewn into a
aoye as in a coat, and the bottom gathered on to a
narrow wristband rather fanciful in shape. The top
part of the back is cut in the form known bb the
'^yoke,^* with a point at the centre of the bottom-
edge, and carried over the shoulder and tmder the
arm round to the front, where it meets the upper
part of the firont, the edge of which is cut somewhat
like the edge of the sleeve of a '* Raglan,*' where it
is sewn in to the scye. The front sits very snug to
the chesty and the collar is well fitted to the neck.
The fulness of the forepart of the shirt is confined
at the waist or bottom of the plain firont by a
fanciful strapping.

The form of the seam from the neck to under ihe
arm, at front, admits of an amount of round being
allowed on at the centre, so as to give length and
play for the Deltoid muscle, which has been the
principal object in view by the inventor in the
arrangement of the component parts of his shirt

There is ample fulness all over the bodjr^ without \J(
any superfiuiry of material, and a great obstacle to » ^

--e^6iS3BaS^^^

croy ^TSt S S S ^ ^K^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[October 1, 1869.

the ease of the scye of a coat, by the presence of an
unnecessary quantity of shirt-sleeve at this particular
spot, is completely obviated.

If the workmanship and material of all the shirts
Mr. Anderson sends out from his establishment be
on a par with those in the sample shirt we have
received, they leave nothing in point of excellence to
be desired by the most fastidious man. They do
him great credit for the care he has evidently be-
stowed upon make, cut, and quality.

We perceive, by the advertisement which appears
in another part of our work, that Mr. Anderson is
prepared to grant licences to the trade to make use
of his invention. Any houses making up this gar-
ment for sale, will do well to put themselves in
communication with the inventor.

LEYPOLDrS PATENT BUTTON-HOLE

CUTTER.

By the courtesy of our respected agent for Scot-
land, Mr. Francis Gibson, of Glasgow, we have had
the opportunity of inspecting a pair of these patent
button-hole cutters, and are much pleased with the
ingenuity exhibited in the invention, and the ease
with which it ei!ects the purpose for which it was
constructed.

The adoption of an instrument to cut the straight
part of the hole, or even the entire hole, instead of
accomplishing this task by means of & pair of button-
hole scissors, has long been before the trade, in the
form of a " punch," constructed on the principle of
that used for cutting '' wads;" but, with the excep-
tion, perhaps, for leather, the labour required rendered
the process somewhat tedious and irksome, and the
advantage was questionable. The objections to this
plan have, however, been entirely removed, in the
invention patented in America under the above title ;
and we have instead, by means of its operation, a
uniformity of cut and form of hole, with but a very
moderate pressure required, according to the sub-
stance of the article in which the hole is to be cut.

The principle on which the necessary pressure is
imparted, is that brought to bear in a " hand press "
for stamping paper or envelopes, by means of a die

and a lever. The form is very oonvenient, and
affords a good leverage for the hand.

A small bar of copper — ^which metal is selected
for its firmness combined with softness — ^is let into a
groove on the upper sur&ce of the lower arm of the
machine, and moves on a pivot fixed at the centre.
Above this, on the lower edge of the upper arm, is a
die in steel, in the form of a perfect button-hole.
The piece of metal in which this hole is cut passes
through a broad groove, and, projecting above the
top, comes in contact with the lever, which is pressed
downward with the thumb by means of a strong
spring.

In the space between the steel '^ cutter " and the
copper bar which forms the bed, the cloth is inserted,
and, by a gentle pressure of the hand, the '' cutter " is
brought down to bear on the cloth, and the hole cut
out of it cleanly and perfect in shape. This, how-
ever, is only one of the features which distinguish
this invention.

The regularity of the distance of the end of the
hole from the edge of the garment, is ensured by a
very simple but efficient plan; which, considering
the importance of this being properly carried out, is
a great feature in this invention.

The " cutter " of the hole and the " bed " are
placed at the Jurther end of the machine from the
handle ; at the opposite end a slide works by means
of a screw, so that the length of the opening between
the upper and lower arms of the button-hole cutter
may be shortened at will, and, by this arrangement,
the instrument can be made to pass at a lesser or
greater distance from the edge of the garment before
the hole is cut out of the article. The advantage of
this accessory will be appreciated when it is con-
sidered the distance at which the holes are cut in a
coat bound broad, or when double-stitched.

We have tried the machine on a variety of articles,
and in each instance produced a perfectly shaped
button-hole, and cleanly cut. The difference in the
substance of the articles was scarcely distinguishable
in the act of pressing on the lever.

From the moderate prices at which the patent
button-hole cutter is sold, according to the length of
the punch, varying from three-eighths of an inch to
one inch and three-quarters, we have no doubt that.

^€ses3Bg^9^&^

-- Ci<JS

cC2>

?^^^^

October 1, 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

when l^is inventioQ is known to the trade, it will
command their patronage.

Mr. Gibsun has been appointed agent for the sale
of the Patent Button-Hole Cutters; and we beg to
refer our readers to that gentleman for any further
information they may require respecting them.

FASfflONS OF THE SEASON.

We have now arrived at that period of the season
when the styles which are to take the lead are
anxiously looked for, and tailors at home and abroad
are naturally waiting for all the information con-
nected with them, which they, by experience, know
we are in the habit of communicating periodically
to our numerous readers.

Speculation with r^ard to the different forms of
Over-coats, always engages the attention of tailors,
as they are frequently made up in anticipation of the
time when they Mrill be required.

On one of the plates issued with the present niun-
ber of our work, we have illustrated the Chesterfield
form of Over-coat in two different styles. It is, un-
questionably, the most fashionable form for the
winter. The pattern we also publish in our pre-
sent selection, on plates 1421 and 1422, will put our
patrons in possession of the several detaib and pro-
portions.

It will be observed that the coat is short, being
cut no longer than sufficient to cover the bottom of
the coat worn underneath, or, at most, long enough
to cover the skirt of a frock-coat. The back is cut
moderate in width at the hollow of the waist, and at
the top and bottom of the side-seam. The back-
seam is well hollowed, and an opening about nine
or ten inches long is left in it, with or without a
tacking.

The coat is not made so shapely to the figure
as we were led to suppose would have been fashion-
able this year, judging from the tendency shown
towards it last winter. It is cut to hang fireely to
the body, but still to mark the difference well be-
tween the breast and waist. The shoulder is broad.
When made single-breasted, the four or ^ve holes at
firont are usually worked in a fly, and the buttons

placed about three inches in from the edge. The
turn to the top of the front-edge is moderate in
width, and the top of the lapel but narrow. The
collar is low in the stand, but deeper in proportion
in the fall. The end is cut to slope off, and may be
either square or rounded. The sleeve is easy to the
arm, and short, and may be made quite plain at the
hand, or with a cuff and one button and hole.

On double-breasted Chesterfields, the lapel is
rather broad, and there are mostly but four holes in
it. The top is slightly rounded off, but the end of
the collar is square and narrower. There are
pockets at firont of the skirt, with welts or small
flaps to go in or out. A breast-pocket is usual out-
side the left forepart, and sometimes a ticket-pocket
is added on the right forepart.

Velvet is much in request, and is used for the
collar and cuffs, as also for the edges and the lapel-
facings. Or the fronts are faced at the edge with a
narrow strip of cloth, and silk, quilted and stitched,
at the back. With velvet cuffs, they are made deep.
A fur edging, or an imitation " ftir " for the same
purpose, has a good effect on dark colours and suit-
able articles. It is equally becoming for the covering
of the collar, and for the cuffs.

Fancy silk buttons, of a moderate size, are much
in favour. On some articles the seams are lapped
and stitched, or sewn in the regular manner, and a
back-stitching on each side of the seam.

We notice among the goods introduced for this
season, some beautiful shades in brown, olive, and
green, which are commanding a preference over
others of a quieter character. The dress Melton, and
the finer makes of beaver, are patronized. Drab of a
light and of a medium shade, are partially worn. We
noticed a tendency last winter to the revival of this
colour, once so fashionable.

The Frock Great- coat, illustrated on one of the
figures on another of the plates, shares with the
Chesterfield form in public favour, as the style is
perhaps better adapted to set off a well-made figure
to advantage. We have supplemented our repre-
sentation of this form of Over-coat by a pattern of it
on the sheet of diagrams, in order the more com-
pletely to convey to our readers an adequate idea of
the style and proportions.

-^e^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[October 1, 1S69

The waist is moderately long, but the skirt is
short in proportion, only reaching to the knee or a
little below. The lapel is sewn on ; it is broad, and
rather pointed. There are five holes worked in it.
The collar is not very deep in the stand, but broader
in the fall, and the end sloped off at front. The
sleeve is full, and is made up with a deep round
cuff, or with one or two buttons and holes at the
wrist. The coat is cut quite easy over the chest and
at the waist, but still to fit. The skirt is rather flat,
but is now cut with a little more compass to give
freedom on the hips. The edges are frequently
trimmed with a broad silk braid sewn on flat, or
bound with velvet. Figured buttons are invariably
used. Velvet collar, lapel-facings, and cuffs are de-
cidedly fashionable, and give a very elegant appear-
ance to a rich dress beaver or faced Melton. The
fur beaver, in a dark shade of blue, tells well in this
shape of coat, and with velvet. The lapel, only in
some instances, is faced with velvet, and a silk breast-
facing, quilted or stitched in rows, brought to the
back of it. This style shows to advantage in the
rich shades of brown, when both velvet and silk
match well. Some trades prefer black velvet, unless
the colour of the beaver is very light, when the con-
trast would be too great.

When this style of coat is made up in frieze, or in
some of the more marked makes of beaver, the edges
are double-stitched, and smoked pearl or stained
ivory buttons substituted for the figured silk; but
velvet collar and cuffs may both be worn.

The double-breasted <' pea '^-jacket shown on the
other figure of this plate, it a useful garment,
and is worn in the place of an Over-coat when
made up in stout makes of goods, or of a morning-
coat when the fancy coatings or mixed articles in
angola or doeskin are worn. It is short, and not
cut too full to the size of the body. The back is
narrow, and an opening is left at the bottom of the
back-seam, or one made when the back ie cut whole.
The bottom of the side-seam can be lefl open a short
distance, and the comers of both edges rounded off.
The lapel is not very wide, and there are four holes
worked in it. The collar is low in the stand, and
but little deeper in the fall ; square at the end, and
sloped off. Easy sleeve, with a round cuff £>rmed

by braid, same as on the edges. The coarser makes
of beaver and fancy goods are used for this style of
coat, with stained ivory, wood, or smoked pearl
buttons.

We have devoted the third plate of the present
series to illustrating the back and front views of one
of the styles of hunt-coat in favour for the forth-
coming season. It is a form which has always been
worn to a limited extent, but would appear now to
be taking a more prominent place.

On analyzing it, we find it is the old '' lapel
coat," which was for a time exceedingly fashion-
able as a morning-coat. The waist is longer than
for a frock-coat, and the hip-buttons rather wider
apart The skirt is short, so as not to be in the way
of the saddle. It is very broad at t<^, but of a
medium width only at the bottom. There are flaps
in the waist-seam, with pockets under. The lapel
is sewn on; it is broad at top and at the centre, but
much reduced at the bottom, so as not to leave sufii-
cient space for a button-hole. There are five
marked up. The coat ia produced quite easy to
the measure, and even at the waist, although it ia
not intended to be buttoned at the very bottom of
the lapel. The collar is low, but half an inch deeper
in the fall. The top-edge is made up snug, but the
bottom-edge must be kept easy, to admit of the li^)el
being buttoned across in case of bad weather. The
sleeve is easy, but only moderately wide at the hand.
There is a narrow cuff, with one button in it, and
one above, and with or without holes to oortegpoiid.
The edges are turned in and stitched.

Scarlet milled cloth and beaver are the most
fashionable wear, with basket or figm^ gilt buttons,
or with the button of some particular hunt.

For less pretentious men, Cambridge and steal
mixtures, or a full shade of green, are becoming,
with engraved blue steel buttons, or smoked pearl.
It is usual to line the body, back, and sleeves widi a
pink or blue checked flannel. Some tradea hare a
'' sandwich-case " pocket put in tiie skirt-fiicing, wilh
the opening aslant, and rather low down.

Hnnting-waistcoats are made single and double
breasted. The former have no collar, button i;^
high, are long at front, cut off a little fiom L si gw
the lower hole, and atrai^t along the bettom-e4g**

OCTOBSl 1, 1869.]

GAZ£TTB OP FASHION.

The double-breasted have the lapel cut on; it is
broad at top and at bottom, with four holes marked
up at a moderate distance apart, then a space lefb
between the upper one and one at the angle, to be
used wbem the waistcoat is required to be buttoned
acinoas the chest.

There are special articles for hunt- waistcoats,
which are very becoming, and have a stylish appear-
ance when seen in contrast with the scarlet eoal.
There is the white curl ground in wool, either quite
plain or with coloured spots on a curd-white ground,
or white spots on a coloured ground, as a bright
shade of blue or leather colour. The " plait " pat-
tern in white is also equally good. Plush, in blue,
dove, or purple, tells well, when made up for hunt-
waistcoats. Some gentlemea wear a plain white
elastic doeskin, the same as made up in breeches,
and this article produces a good effect. Ivory " ball,"
" fisli-eyed " pearl, and pearl •* ball " buttons are
worn.

As reported in the letter-press description of
fashion and details accompanying our present copy
of the "Report of Fashion," hunting-breeches are
cut fuller on the thigh than formerly worn. They
are cut long, to reach well on to the calf, and have
four holes and buttons at the knee, with a hole in
the garter for leather strings. The top-side is out
with a good round at the side-seam, and a little for-
ward at the bottom, but it is not considered in good
taste for the buttons to stand too forward on the leg.
The side-seams are lapped or raised. The breeches
are made without waistbands, with fly-fronts, and
have pockets across the top-side. The garter is cut
on, and is added to the length taken of the leg-
seam, to allow sufficient liberty from the fork to the
knee-bone when the leg is bent. A short legging of
stocking -web is' frequently sewn on the bottom of the
garter. It is about six inches deep, and cut to fit
to the 1^. It is fastened down the side by small flat
lioen buttons. The object is to keep the breeches
well down in their place, as also to form a little pro-
teciioo to the leg imder the top of the boot. The
white, cream, and pale buff ehustic doeskins, either
pkia or in diagonals, ribs, or broad welts, are much
worn ; in fact, they to a great extent supersede lea-
ther. With leathers, the legging is made of a thin
chamois leather. The buttons are gilt shank or two-
hole pearl of a moderate size.

Pantaloons are preferred by some gentlemen when
they wear the riding-boots without tops. They are
cut moderately full on the thigh, to fit at the knee
and calf, and reach to the ankle. They have some-
times buttons at the knees to represent breeches;
said have two snudl onea i^ the ankle, and a narrow
strap sewn on the inside at the bottom, whioh pattes
under the foot, and is &stened at the other side by
a button and hole, or tied by a ribbon. Pantaloons
may be made either of the same artieles as worn for
breeches, of the diagonal cords used for riding-
texmsers, or of gvey mixture doeskins.

Fancy vestings are not so much patronized for
morning wear as they deserve, but some of the new
patterns for the season will, we hope, have sufficient
infi^uence on gentlemen, to induce them to take them
up and revive this branch of our trade, whioh maf
be made vary profitable, as the adoption of figured
waistcoats necessitates a variety for choice. We are
quite convinced that much of this neglect is to be
attributed to tailors, and originates in a false spirit
of economy; for if their customers find that they
have not an assortment submitted for their inspec-
tion, they become indifferent, and continue with the
same waistcoat, until it is really too shabby for them
to wear it decently.

We have noticed the last few years a decided pre-
ference given to fur waistcoats, either made in the
real article, or in some of the good imitations of it.
Sealskin for a time had a monopoly, but it could
not become very generally worn on account of the
price, which was so much in advance of other
articles. The same objection cannot be urged against
coney, beaver, and fur, in dark brown and black, of
which a large quantity have been prepared for the
ensuing winter, and are sold retail at prices which
bring them within the reach of the most moderate
man. Some samples we have seen had the pocket
openings cut in the foreparts, and a facing sewn on
ready. They are worn without a collar, or with a
very small one, and single-breasted. The holes at
front are worked in a fiy, and the buttons are flat.
The foreparts look best when lined with silk to
match, quilted in diamond figure or stitched in rows.
Some have silk sleeves sewn on to them, so as to
make the whole of the waistcoat suitable for cold
weather.

The coney fur is well adapted for binding the
edges of Over-coats, in the Sac or Chesterfield forms,
as also for the facings of the lapels and for deep
round cuffs.

Fur is very suitable also for hunt-waistooata, aa,
by their substance and warmth, they would counter-
act the effect of the current of air while riding fast
across the country. The rich shade of brown would
tell well against the scarlet edge of the turn at front,
and the white breeches below.

»*>«*<

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DUGRAM.

Plates 1421 and 1422.

Diagrams 1, 2, 5, 6, 11, and 12, are the pattern
of the newest and most fashionable form o£ fitting
Orer-coftt for the season.

Diagrams S, 4, 8, IS, and 14, are the pattern of a
faTounte stjk of hunt-coat. t ^

Diagrams 7, 9, 10, and 15, are the pattern of an ^
Over-coai in th« Chesterfield fcrss.

9^5r^

■e^^esaKK^^s^

^^^*-

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

-eO^

[OCTOBEB 1, 1869.

NOA^ST READY,

MINISTER'S HALF-YEABLY FASHIONS.

THE REPORT FOR AUTUMN & WINTER, 1869 & 1870.

Pronounced by all who have inspected the Proof Plates to be the most perfect Engravmg of Fashionable
Dress ever published in this country. Among the illustrations will be found

rtfTHE NEW STYLE FOR EVENING - DRESS IN BLACK VELVET,

Which has attracted more than ordinary attention, and is likely to be in considerable request.

NEA\^ COXJUT-DIIESS.

The only strictly accurate representation of the new regulations prescribed when attending the Queen's Drawing-

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BLUE DRESS -COAT, TROUSERS, AND WHITE WAISTCOAT.

The correct thing for Evening wear, as made by Poole and many of the leading Trades in London.

Effective Drawings of the present forms of

CHESTERFIELD AND FROCK OVER-COATS.

SHOOTnra and Hin!rTn[& SEESS shown on two Sportsmanlike I^uies.

Also every variety of

FROCK, MORNING -COAT, TROUSERS, AND WAISTCOAT.

These may be equally relied upon for accuracy of style and truthful delineation of material employed.

As usual, PATTERNS of all the approved forms of garments for the season accompany the Plate, with accurate

details as to Fashion and '* Making-up."

Price 12s. 6d., or 21s. a year in advance. Post free to all parts

of the Kingdom.

MEECKY'S PATENT SHEARS,

The best for Tailors' \ise, combiDine lightness in constmc-
tion with conyenience in shape. Will cut with equal facilitj
a lady's cloth or a milled beaver. Price 26s. and 288. per
pair.

THB

COMPLETE GUIDE TO P&ACTICAL CTFTTINO,

Acknowledged to be the most perfect treatise on the art of
fitting the human form.. Forty-nine Engravings, and 300
pages of letterpress. Price 35s., in Two \o\a, ; or in Seven
rarts, at 5s. each.

THE CHABT OF BBITISH LIVEBIES.

Forty-two Figures of every -kind of Servants* Livery, ac-
companied by Patterns in Diagram and explanatory text.
Price 25s. ; on Rollers, £1 lis. 6d. ; Framed, £2 10s.

THE HANDBOOK OF STTLES.

A new edition, forming No. 8 of the Chart of Fashion,
showinff Coats, Vests, Trousers, Riding-Habits, and Chil-
dren's JJiesses in endless variety. Price 6s., or in Sheets 4s.

AST OP CXJTTINO

Taught every morning from Eleven till One. Terms, Ten

guineas.

BEAD'S or GIBSON'S GEADXTATED MEASTJEES,

For enlarging or decreasing Patterns, ensuring perfect ac-
curacy in cutting with economy in time. Available for any
system. Price — Read's 58., Gibson's 4s., per Set. Far-
warded free by Pattern Post at the reduced cost of 4d.
per Set.

W&IGHT'S C&AT0N8,

In boxes of assorted colours only, price 3s. per gross.

SEABLE'S PENCIL KABXEB43,

Of the same shape as the ordinary pipe- clay, for marking
on paper or light materials. Price 6s. per dozen.

TEN PLATES OP PANGT BALL DSESSBS,

Stitched in a wrapper, price lOs. ; by post 4d. extra.

Small Amounts under 58. may be sent in Stamps. P.-O. Orders payable at Begent Street, W.

Orders must be aooompanled by a remittance.

AII&YIL.I-. FLAOE, ItE&ElVT S

Si^iiiia'a'Jioj' j'AiSiiiDW _ im.

EDWARD MINISTKR AND SON

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October V!^ 1869

GAZETTE OF FASHION

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October 1^1869

GAZETTE OF FASHION

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GAZETTE OF FASHION,

AMD

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

C«ilm «n« I9>(U iMakrn to K*r fKa\tfts,
No.8. ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

November 1, 1869.

Vfir 0clrcttc Xevotfi'tors.

"A KktharBr and ditpoMt ot other men') Mnir.''— WMUm.

UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OP CUTTING.

By "Sabtob."

{Continved fiom page 33.)

TO TBE EDtrOR Q

Stn,

THE "aweTTE of fasuiom."

Before reflaming thu explanation of the general
working of my system of cutting, I may perhaps be
tlloired to advert to the k-tter I addressed to you ia
reference to a darge of piracy made by one of yonr
■nbocribers abroad, and nliich you were so considerate
u to pnblijd) in your last number, together with
some forcible comments by yonrself.

From yaw intimate knowledge of me, I did not
feel for one moment the slightest unea«ness as to the
opinion which yoa would form of the genuinenesa of
my contribuldos to yonr work \ but, writing under
a pBndongtn for convenience, and to allow perfect

freedom to my friends lor any remarks they might
feel disposed to make on my principle or method, I
could not be so sure that I should not, perhaps, be
miiijudged and condemned by some of your readers,
without having the opportunity of explaining the
real state of the case.

Tou are necessarily fully aware that snoh a charge
as offering systems of cutting — ioTcnted hy others —
as one's own production, could be safely and justly
made against more than ons person in our trade at
the present time; and althongb the pracljce is by no
means creditable to the persons implicated, the bor-
rowed honour for a time redounds to their importHoce.
But eventually the trick is discovered, and tlie dis-
grace for so flagrant a breach of common honesty
very properly brings about the punishment so weU
deserved.

Aa I feel convinced that such an act would be
most repugnant to your feelings, yoa did me no more
than jnstice by &vonring me nt the very earliest
opportunity with the means of contradicting the
charge of your corre^ndent, so &r aa I am pt-rsoo-

iftes^sa*-

gsS^3«Sg9«a*-

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GAZETTE OP PASfflON.

[NOYEMBEB 1, 1869.

ally concerned, as the author of the plan of catting,
the merit of which is claimed by him.

I sincerely hope that, by an early post, you will
receiye further information on this subject, and that,
afler your request, your correspondent will furnish
you with a copy of his system, and at the same time
state if his method is — ^like the " Uniyersal System"
— applicable to all styles of garments, and his plan
for disproportion and deviations made on the same
principle as those I have communicated in the pre-
vious portion of my correspondence.

I have given your readers proofs of the application
of my system of cutting, to drafUng dress, ftt>ck, and
morning coats, and Chesterfields, and now propose
showing its adaptability to producing waistcoats.

I am. Sir,

Tour obedient servant,

" Sabtob."

To FoBM THE Forepart.
Diagram 3.

Draw the line A B; mark on it at C, one-sixth of
the breast;* at D, one-fourth; at E, one-half; and at
F, the length of natural waist. Square with A B,
draw the line A 6, and make the distance between
the two pcHuts, one inch less than a fourth of the
breast From D, E, and F, square with D B, draw
the lines D H, £ I, and F L. Mark on the line
D H, at H, two-thirds of the breast, and intersect
this point by a line drawn from G, as a guide for the
shoulder-seam.

Mark from D to K, on the line D H, about 1|
inch more than a third for the width to front of scye;
but this proportion may be varied at {Measure, ac-
cording to the make of the customer. On the line
E I, mark at I, half an inch more than half the
breast; and from I to M, one«eighth of the breast.
Draw a line from K to M. From P to L is half an
inch more than half the size of the waist.

Baise the scjre-point of the shoulder-seam about an
inch from the line drawn frt>m G to H, make the
length to &ncy, and shape the scye, touching the
line drawn from K to M, and terminating at I. Form

« I should state that I follow your plan of drafting a
waistcoat^ an inch larger than the actual measure of the
body.

the side-seam from I to L, and the neck of a waist-
coat to button up, from G through C.

Allow one-eighth for the width of the top of the
bade, and make the length of front, from G, to the
measure taken, adding one inch for making up and
seam.

To form the front-edge, measure the width from
the line E B to the side-seam, about 1 } inch below
the line E I, and mark out beyond the line £ B,
two inches more than the breast-measure. Follow
the same plan to fix the distance of the front-edge at
the waist, but substituting the waist-measure.

Make the length of side-seam to fiishion, or to suit
the particular figure of the customer, and shape the
bottom-edge of the forepart

To Form the Back.

Draw the several lines, and determine the position
of the difierent pcHnts as for the forepart.

Raise the top of back at G, as shown on the dia-
gram, and lower the scye-point of the shoulder-seam,
from the line drawn from G H, to the same extent
as the shoulder-seam of the forepart was drawn
above it. Make the length to correspond with the
shoulder-seam of the forepart, shape the back-scye
to I, and the bottom to the back-seam.

For disproportion in size of waist, I shorten the
back by raising the top of the side-seam at I, half an
inch, as shown by the roulette line. Should the
waist, on the contrary, be very small in proportion
to the breast, I then lower the top of the side-seam
from the point I, and take a little off at the bottom
of the back-seam, as practised by you in your work,
the " Complete Guide to Practical Gutting,** to avoid
an abrupt point in closing the side-seam.

I have not touched on any of the different shapes
of waistcoats, as they do not afieot the principle of
my system. I may, however, just remark that, far
double-breasted waistcoats, either with the lapel cut
on or sewn on, I find it is not advisable to reduce
the width of the forepart at the bottom of the front-
edge, but merely take off about half an inch at the
fhll of the breast This produces a ckaner-fitting
waistcoat than if the same quanti^ had been taken
off all the way down the front-edge.

(To be contmuecL)

■riMn^MMM

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HoYucBU 1, 18M.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETT OF MASTER-
TAILORS OF PARIS.
Vkobs for Good WoRDiAHsmp.

The sQcoeBS whioh attended ike efiarto of tiie
membera of the aborre ezoelleat Sociely , last jear, to
give a fresh impetus to the trade, by holding out a
promise of reward fx mxpmot workmanship com-
bined with finish, eiroeeded ^ hopes of the roost
sanguine of the promoters of the morement; and,
encouraged by the result, and widi a hope still fur-
ther to derelop the talent and ei^Mcities of die
journeymen and workwomen employed in this par-
tteolar braadi of indintry, they determined on re-
peating the experiment in the present year.

The meeting fbr awarding the prizes gained by the
SQOcessful couqpetitOTs, as determined by the decision
of a jury appointed to examine the several specimens
sent in, has latdiy taken plaee, and although the par-
ticulars have not yet been officially published, we
are enabled, by an influential member of the Society,
to furnish some detuls of die proceedings, and so
soon as the report is in ciroulation, we shall com-
plete our account of this interesting and important
exhibition.

We last year noticed the first praiseworthy attempt
in this direction, and gare the particulars of the
principles on which the movement was to be esta-
blished, as also die different classifications under
which the various deseriptions of garments were to
be entered, widi the amount of prises and number
of ^honourable mentions'' to be awarded.

The pkm adopted on diat occasion wis closely
followed at die second compeddon; but the meeting
was hdd in a spadoas room, engaged especially fat
die purpose, in order to accommodate more con-
veniendy the large number of persons who were
expected to be present.

Owing, however, to die increased interest which
diis movement has excited in the trade, both in
masters and in workmen, it required some litde for-
bearance on the part of the company present, to di-
minish the slight inconvenience experienced by the
Mmited space. As all who attended were [actuated
by die best feeling, this trifling sacrifice^^of personal
comfort was willingly supported, in oonsideration of

the satisfiiction felt at the support die undertaking
met with from the body of the trade, as evinced by
the attendance on the occasion.

We may here state, for the information of such of
our readers who did not peruse the statement we pub <
lished in the October and November numbers of our
work last year, that this movement originated, in the
first instaz^e, in a feeling, on the part of some of the
principal master-tailors of Paris, of the inferiority in
the execudon of the work performed by the journey-
men-tailors of the present day, compared with the
specimens which were produced by the journeymen
of recent times, and of the desirability of devising
some plan by which this lost excellence might be
r^;ained to the advantage of all pardes interested,
and place the French tailoring trade in the en-
viable position it hdd for so long a period in the
civilized world. In all respects, the idea was Inti-
mate, and deserving of support and success.

The plan proposed was to offer a sufficient induce-
ment to the jo u r n eymen, and to the women employed
in the trade, to compete for prizes, which were to be
awarded for the best specimens of workmanship and
finish — ^for the two were indispensable — ^in the seve-
ral classes in which the committee ammged the
different garments, according to the quality and
character of the work usually put in them. The
rewards consisted of medals bearing the names of
die successfiil competitors, with sums of money, and
honourable mention widi smaller sums for those
workmen who had evinced less ddll in dieir
specimens.

Hie masters who took an interest in this proceed-
ing found the material for the jour n eymen or women
who were disposed to enter the arena, and diey, on
dieir part, made up the several garments at dieir
leisure, so as not to interfere with their regular em-
ployment or wit^ their wages.

The competition was confined to the workpeople
of diose houses, the principals of ndbidi were mem-
bers of the Sodefy.

The first meeting took place in the rooms of the
Society, in September, 1868, under the presidency of
M. Lafitte, jun.; that which has just been held, was
presided over by M. Kessler, the present President
of the Society, supported by Messrs. Jansens, one of

^b^

■<=^

9^5^

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

[NOYXMBEB 1, 1869.

the Vice-Presidents; Noel, the Secretary; Corroy,
the Treasurer; M. Nicolas, the Director; and the
members of the Committee and Sub-Committee.

In opening the proceedings of the evening, the
President congratulated all friends interested in the
improvement of this branch of trade, on the evident
interest taken in their renewal of the attempt which
had been made to bring about this desirable result,
as shown, beyond a doubt, by the large attendance
of employers and of employed upon this occasion.
He referred to the good understanding which existed
between all parties engaged in this contest, and took
the opportunity to compliment both the journeymen
and the women on the excellence of their work.

Justified by the experience of their first attempt,
and firom their endeavours meeting with additional
support from the trade, he had the pleasure of in-
forming the meeting that the committee had deter-
mined to increase the number of prizes, without,
however, diminishing the several amounts.

He noticed, with much pleasure, that the journey-
men working in the provinces had entered with spirit
into the competition. He hoped, judging from the
great progress made in this their second attempt
over the first experiment, that on the third occasion,
they would have still further cause for satisfaction.

In the absence of M, Giboury — the reporter of the
jury for determining the awards — M. Noel, the Secre-
tary, read the ofiicial report of their proceedings.
It stated that the general excellence shown in the
several specimens sent in for competition had deter-
mined the jury not to limit the number of prizes
to three, as was originally intended to be awarded to
the first class, in which were comprised dress and
double-breasted frock-coats.

In the second, which included morning-coats and
jackets, and Over-coats, while rendering all due
justice to good work, the jury did not feel justified
in awarding a first-class prize, as there was not that
marked superiority in any one specimen over the
others which would entitle the person who made it
to this distinction. It was to be borne in mind that
the articles used for this description of garment were
more supple, and afforded great facility for work-
manship.

There was but one specimen of uniforms submitted.

The jury regretted that there were not more compe-
titors in this particular branch, as competition would
be desirable. The execution of this single speci-
men was, however, so very superior, that the jury
unhesitatingly awarded a first-class prize to the
workman, to whose skill it bore so honourable a
testimony.

In the fourth class (trousers), there were several
excellent specimens of work and style, evincing great
care and judgment on the part of the competitors.
A pair of black doeskin dress-trousers was especially
noticed and commended, as having been entirely
made by hand.

In the fiflh class (waistcoats), the jury were pleased
to notice some capital specimens of work. The work-
manship vras so generally good, that they had some
difiiculty in determining the specimens which should
be rewarded. In white quilting waistcoats, they
were gratified in inspecting some beautifrd instances
of superior and first-rate trade.*

This report was listened to with great attention,
especially by the operatives, who naturally ^t an
anxiety to learn who had been the fortunate gainers
of the several prizes.

M. Jansens, as the original promoter of these pro-
ceedings, and a gentleman known to take a great
interest in the welfare and honour of his profession,
next addressed the meeting.

In the course of his speech (which we will not
attempt to give in the absence of the ofiicial docu-
ment, and which proved the sincerity of his exertions
in promoting the prosperity of their trade^ and in
seeking to improve the condition of the journeymen)
he feelingly adverted to the phases which these com-
petitions had gone through ; and trusted that for the
future, there would be no further interruption to the
advancement of their successfrd institution.

M. Noel then addressed the meeting in his official
capacity as Secretary.

In a very effective speech he touched on all the
various questions connected with the trade, such as
the workshops, and other matters of detaiL He
referred to the assistance rendered by the Society,
and urged upon the journeymen to discuss the matter

* White waistcoats are luually made in IVanoe by ^^
women, and doth and dark waistooatt by men.— £o.

(

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-ja>. cjji

November 1, 1869.]

GAZETTE OP FASfflON.

of apprentioes with calmness, discretion, and good
feeling; otherwise the profession to which they be-
longed would most certainly degenerate, and, no longer
holding the first place in the world, would be
superseded in importance by the tailors of other
countries.

M. Nicolas, the Director of the Society, read the
names of the successful competitors, and the Pre-
sident presented to each, either the medal of the
Society, with their names engraved on them, or a
certificate of honourable mention. To each he ad-
dressed a few kind and complimentary remarks.

M. Corroy,the Treasurer of the Society, presented
the different sums of money, according to the classes.

The President trusted that those who had not been
successful on this occasion would be stimulated to
use increased exertions in future, and become in
their turn the fortunate possessors of the prizes given
for good workmanship.

This brought to a conclusion a most agreeable
evening, and all parties lefl thoroughly satisfied with
the proceedings, and looking forward to the next
meeting.

ENGLISH FASHIONS.

On one of the figures on one of the plates issued
witb the present number we give a back view of a
fitting Chesterfield. It will be noticed that the back
is considerably narrower, both at the top of the side-
seam and at the hollow of the waist, than we have
reported for several years. This is a necessity, in
order to be in harmony with the compass now used
in ^fitting coats of this make; otherwise, if cut to the
former proportions, it would be out of keeping with
the width of the forepart, out of which a long fish is
frequently taken under the seye, to cause the coat to
sit in well at the waist. There is a moderate length
of opening at the bottom of the back-seam, and the
bottoms of the side-seams are lefl open a little as
Avell, or the braid or stitching may be carried up, and
the seams closed all the way down to the bottom.

On the figure of a lady on this plate, we have
represented a very pret^ style of fitting paUUk, with
a cape. Made in a light colour and good article,
and trimmed with velvet in the style shown on the

drawing (of a contrasting colour), the effect is very
becoming.

On the first figure on another of the plates, we
have illustrated a gentlemanly style of Over-coat, to
be worn either for travelling or with evening-dress.
It is cut like a '< Sac," with moderate compass, and
with a bold rolling collar. The sleeves are large,
and have a deep cuff of fur or imitation, and the
collar and roll faced with the same, and the edges
and openings of the pockets bound to match. Made
up in a fine quality of beaver, either plain or of the
make known as '' fur ^^ beaver, with a rich fur, and
the coat lined with silk quilted, we know of no
other shape of Over-coat which can compare with
this for richness of character.

On the other figure on the same plate, we have
represented a double-breasted morning-coat in the
present style. The lapel is cut on. It is not broad
at any part, but is very narrow at the bottom. There
are four holes, the third only being intended to be
used. The waist is moderate in length, and the hip-
buttons not placed more than three and a half inches
apart. The sleeve is not cut wide, and is finished
with a narrow cuff, with two buttons in it, but with-
out holes. The skirt is cut to reach a little below the
middle of the thigh. It is well cut away at the front,
and square at the bottom. There are small fiaps on
the waist-seams, with pockets under, and a breast-
pocket outside, with a welt.

Our readers will perceive by the pattern we pub-
lish this month of a pair of trousers for morning
wear, that there is a little tendency to make them
wider over the foot, but as yet there is nothing
extravagant in the size.

On one of the figures on the third plate, we have
illustrated a frock-co^it, with velvet collar, lapel-
facings, cuffs, and binding. The shape is the same
as we have already described, but this representation
gives an accurate idea of the effect of velvet, and we
think that our patrons will agree with us in the smart
appearance the coat has with these additions.

The view of a back figure represents the back of
a Frock Great-coat, made in frieze or fancy beaver,
with a curl on the face.

f^^^^

--eQ^

^S^

GAZETTB OF FASHION.

[NOYBCBBB 1, 1869

DBSCBIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.

Plates 1426 and 1427.

Diagrams 1, 2, 4, 10, 11, and 12, are the pattern
of a double-breasted frock-coat in the present style
of &shion.

Diagram 3, illustrates the '' (Jniveraal System of
Cutting," by our correspondent " Sartor,** as applied
to drafting waistcoats.

Diagrams 5 and 6, are the pattern of a double-
breasted waistcoat with a rolling collar.

Diagrams 7 and 8, are the pattern of a stylish
form of jacket for ladies' wear, which we reproduce
from a recent number of the work published by our
contemporaries at Dresden. When closed as indicated
by the letters A, B, C, and D, a small graceful cape
is formed, reaching to about the waist; and when
the garment is tastefully made up, and trimmed
either with flat or &ncy braid pr bands of velvet,
according to colour and article used^ the effect will
be very pleasing. Our readers will notice that there
is not any sleeve.

Diagram 9, is the pattern of a pair of morning-
trousers, in the style and prop<»tions in general wear.

BPrrOME OF FRENCH FASHIONS.

The Philanthropic Society of Master-Tailors have
some time since issued their plate among the mem-
bers, illustrating the different styles of dress recom-
mended by the sub-committee — especially nominated
for that purpose — for adoption this season. We have
been £svoured with a copy, and as our notice could
not} at the present time, in any way interfere either
with the rules or the interest of the society, we give
our readers a few particulars of the forms. Those
of our patrons who are also subscribers to our half-
yearly work, the '^ Report of Fashion,** will thus
have the opportunity of seeing the difference which
may exist in the styles reported by us as fashionable
for the ensuing winter.

Dress-coats are represented with a lapel of a
medium width only, and varying but little in size
from the top to the bottom. The top is not cut with
any determined point, and the comer is square.

There are five holes worked in it. The turn of the
front is rather broad, and exteaada below the second
hole from the bottom. The collar is low in the
stand, and a little deeper in the fidL It is square at
the end, and with but a small '^ light** between it
and the lapel. The waist is moderate in length, the
side-seams curved to the usual extent, the back-scye
narrow, the back rather broad acrooB to the sleeve-
head, and narrow at the bottom. The skirt is small
at top, and moderate at the bottom* Instead of ter-
minating in an angle at the end of the strap and the
top of the front-edge, as usual, the bottom-edge of
the strap is carried with a slight curve on to the
firont-edge of the skirt. The sleeve is easy, and has
a deep round cuff without any buttons. Blue is re-
commended for evening-drees, with gilt buttons and
a velvet collar. The front of the forepart is £iced
with cloth, but the skirts are lined with silk. The
edges are turned in, and stitched narrow.

Evening-waistcoats are of white quilting, or of buff
cashmere, with rolling collar, opening low, and three
buttons and holes. They are cut to correspcmd with
the lapel of the coat.

Trousers easy to the leg, and to fall a little over
the foot Fly-front and plain side-seams. Slate
dress doeskin of a light shade is suggested, instead of
black.

For half-dress — ^with which we have no corie-
8p(mding style in this country — the ocmimittee in-
troduce a rich shade of brown, with a velvet roUmg
collar to match. The torn is low and broad. The
other details correspond with those (^ the fiiU dress.
This coat has a very elegant appearance, and is a
deeded contrast in style to the blue evening-dress

With this coat is worn a buff quilting or casd-
mere waistcoat, made in the same style as the white
for full dress, but not to open quite so low, and to
have four buttons and holes in the plaee of three.

The trousers are of a pale shade of drab, also in
dress doeskin, and cut to the same proportions and
style as the light date.

Double-breasted frodc-eoats are not worn longer
in the waist than for dress-eoats. The skirt is mode-
rately fiat and short. The lapel is by no means
broad nor pointed, nor cut with a round at the

*€^

^9^-

NOVEMBBB 1| 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASmON,

centre. It has fire holes worked in it, and the front
tnms to the third hole. The collar ia not quite ao
broad at the end aa the top of the lapel, and with a
fiman light. Sleeve easy to the arm, and with a
plain round cuff. The edges are turned in and
stitched.

Morning-coats are both double and single breasted.
The former style is made with the lapel — which is
about the same width as that of a frock-coat —cut on.
It is, however, narrower at the bottom. There are
&Ye holes. The front-edge of the forepart is cut off
from the third hole, which is made use of to retain
the coat in its position over the chest. The comer of
the lapel is slightlj rounded, and runs in continuation
with the collar-seam. The end of the collar is well
sloped off and narrow, and runs in continuation of
the edge of the silk breast-&oing at the back of the
doth lapel'&cing. The sleeve follows the i^le and
proportions of the two other forms of coat we have
described. The skirt is short, made to run at front
with the lapel, but to sit well forward on the thigh
at bottom. It is not rounded off, and there are not
anj flaps.

The single-breasted ooat is very similar in shape
to the morning-coat which was worn in this country
before the broad long tuma were introduced. The
lapel is very small, and the coat is fastened by the
top of four holes and buttona. The collar is both
narrow and low, with a small end. The fVont of the
forepart is cut away at the waist-seam, and the
bottom of the skirt well rounded off. It is about the
length of the skirt on the double-breasted coat.
There are medium-sized flaps in the waist-seam.
Sleeve easy to the arm, and quite plain, without
a cuff.

Waistcoats for morning wear are to be made
without a collar, cut tolerably long, and to button
high up.

The style of Frock Great-coat recommended is
much afler that which is fashionable in this country.
In fact, it has every appearance of an English-made
coat The wiust is short, and the hip-buttons a little
wider apart than we have described. The lapel is
broad at top, rather narrow at the bottom, and with-
out that amount of round on the outer edge which we
have noticed on some coats in town. The collar is

k>w in the stand, but of a fiur depth in the fall. It
is narrow at the front, and the end sloped off. The
skirt is short, not any longer than for a frodc-ooat.
It is flat. The sleeve only easy, without any ten-
dency whatever to the "peg-top** dimenmons, and is
finished with a deep round cuff. The edges have a
silk braid laid on flat. The ooat is worn buttoned
up to the fourth hole.

We are glad to notice an attempt to reintroduce
the small cape on an Over-coat, but instead of being
worn with a Frock Great-coat, it is recommended to
be adopted on a fitting Chesterfield. The back of the
coat has every appearance of a regular Frock Great-
coat with hip-buttons, side-seams, and tacking at the
hip, but the hip-buttons are wider apart. The front
of the coat is double-breasted, with a bold lapel cut
on, and four holes in it. It is worn buttoned up to
ihe neck, without any turn whatever. The collar is
low and narrow, and cut off at fhmt. The cape
covers the shoulders well, and reaches to about half
way down the back. It is well rounded off at front.
The skirt is short, not reaching to the knee, A long
fish is evidently taken out under the arm to remove
the superfluous doth which would otherwise be found
at the small of the waist, and so as to give sufficient
liberty over the hips. The pockets are at front of
the skirts, with the openings aslant, and with a narrow
welt. The sleeve is exactly in the style of the
majority of the coats we have described, but with a
deeper cuff. The edges are trimmed with a braid.

The loose Chesterfield form of Over-coat is also
recommended for adoption. It is not so full as a
'' Sac," but sufficiently large to hang straight, and is
cut without a back-seam. It is short. The front is
single-breasted, and the holes worked in a fly. But-
toned up to the throat, without any turn. Narrow
collar, the comer of the end rounded off. Full
sleeve, with a deep round cuff. Edges turned in,
and doubled-stitched. Seams sewn plain. Deep flaps
across the skirts at front, with pockets under, and
one with a welt outside the lefl breast. There is no
opening at the bottom of the back.

There is but little difference in the style or width
of morning-trousers, from those worn in dress.
Checks, stripes, and fimcy diagonal patterns, with
plain side-seams or borders, are represented.

^^^

iSi^^^^

- cC^ ;

GAZETTE OF FASmON.

c<l2:^

[NOYEMBEB ly 1869.

MINISTER'S HALF-YEABLY FASHIONS.

THE REPORT FOR AUTUMN & WINTER, 1869 & 1870.

Pronounced by all who have inspected the Proof Plates to be the most perfect Engraying of Fashionable
Dress ever published in this country. Among the illustrations will be found

THE NEW STYLE FOE EVENING - DRESS IN BLACK VELVET,

Which has attracted more than ordinary attention, and is likely to be in considerable request

NE^^ COTJUT-DHESS.

The only strictly accurate representation of the new regulations prescribed when attending the Queen^s Drawing-

Rooms and Levees.

BLUE DRESS -COAT, TROUSERS, AND WHITE WAISTCOAT.

The correct thing for Evening wear, as made by Poole and many of the leading Trades in London.

Effective Drawings of the present forms of

CHESTERFIELD AND FROCK OVER-COATS.

SHOOrnre and EUirTnr& disss shown on two Sportsmanlike I^gmes.

Also every variety of

FROCK, MORNING -COAT, TROUSERS, AND WAISTCOAT.

These may be equally relied upon for accuracy of style and truthful delineation of material employed.

As usual, PATTERNS of all the approved forms of garments for the season accompany the Plate, with accurate

details as to Fashion and *' Making-up.**

Price 128. 6d., or 2l8. a year in advance. Post free to all parts

of the Kingdom.

HEBCETS PATEHT 8HEABS,

The best for Tailors* use. combininff lightness in omistnio-
tinn with convenience in shape. Will cut with equal fiscility
a lady's cloth or a milled beaver. Price 25s. and 28s. per
pair.

BEAD 8 or GIBSON'S aBADUATED MEASXJBE8»

For enlarging or decreasing Patterns, ensuring perfect ac-
curacy in cutting with economy in time. Available for any
system. Price — Read's 68., Gibson's 4s., per Set. For*
warded free by Pattern Post at the reduced cu^t of 4dL
per Set.

THB

COMPLETE OXTIDE TO PBACTICAL CTTTTINa,

Acknowledged to be the most perfect treatise on the art of
fitting the human form. Forty-nine Engravings, and 300

?nges of letterpress. Price 35s., in Two Vols. ; or in Seven
arts, at 5s. each.

THE CHABT OF BBITISH IIVEBIES.

Forty-two Figures of every kind of Servants* Livery, ac-
eompanied by l^altems in Diagram and explanatory text.
Price 25s. ; ou Rullcrs, £1 lis. 6d. ; Framed, £2 lOs.

THE HANDBOOK OF STYLES.

A new f dition, forming No. 8 of the Chart of Fashion*
showing Coats, Ycstn, 'trousers. Riding- Habits, and Chil-
dren's Df esses in rndless variety. Price 6s., or in Sheets 4s.

ABT OF CUTTIHO

Taught every morning from Eleven till One. Terms, Ten

guineas.

WEIGHT'S CBATOHS,

In boxes of assorted colours only, price 3s p^r grotf.

SEABLE 8 PENCIL MABKEBS,

he same shape as the ordinary pipe- clav. f>»r max^
on paper or light materiids. Price 6s per doieen.

TEH PLATES OF FAHCT BALL DB'SSBS,

Stitched in a wrapper, price 10s. ; by post 4d. extra.

Small Amounts under 6fl. may be sent in Stamps. P.-0. Orders payable at Regent Street* W.

Orders must be accompanied by a remittance.

^ROYLIL. I^L^CE, REOENT S

k2_C

gCN

i\wmiia-/'L s}iyAX'rri,oyl'j-^S,'M'im^ _ m.r

>oycn,l>erI"_3iYIl''S''I£oi'I}\2-M2Q'n — im .

F.DWARD MlNISll'.R AND S0\
^^ Ijondoh- .

.Yoremberl'-'_BM,l,'I'n,Si:F&.S:m.'S)E _ ms.

F.DWARD MINISTHR ANIJ SON

6, ~_ArMy/l ^MAut' ii^lty^nl .-y^'rr/^ II .
^^ Londoff.

SSsS*-

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

Vallon an& llfMt fitlAnt to fttr iWajnlts,
No. 8. ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

PHILANTHKOPIC SOCIETY OF MASTER-
TAILORS OP PARIS.
Distribution of Prizes for Good Wokksianship.

In onr Inst Dumber me noticed the praiseworthy
cieTtioDs of the above Society to devise a Bchemc
for r^enerating the excellence which waa formerly
attained by French journeymen -tailors, aa well aa
by those of other continental cities, and gave a ehoi-t
review of the proceedinge at the distribution of prizes
on the second anniversary of this new movement.

Since the publication of our incidental remarlcs
we hare been favoured with the full details of this
interesting meeting, and, agreenbly with our promise,
now give them more copiously to our readers.

As we view this proceeding on the part of the
houses constituting the principal trades in Paris, and
the large provincial firms, as one calculated to pro-
duce a very desirable result, and tend materially to
the advancement and improvement of the mechanical
part of the profession of tailors, we are convinced
that by every member of our branch of the indus-

trial arts the particulars of the meeting on this occa-
sion will be read with interest.

We would also hope that this attempt by the
Philanthropic Society of Paris may have the effect of
inducing some of the spirited members of the trade
in this conntry to adopt similar measures with the
same view, aa it cannot but be admitted that there
is ample room for improvement generally in the
work of the journeyman. It would be desirable if
the mantle of some of the best workmen of our pre-
decessors in bumness could have fallen on the
shoulders of their successors, and by this means
have handed down to the present generation a little
more of that perfection in sewing which was so ad-
mired and appreciated in the early part of the
present century.

la the circular issued by the Society to the mem-
bers, in July last, they state that in the presence
of various clrcimistances which for several years
have exercised a prejudicial effect on the quality of
the work performed by journeymen-tailors, the
Society had come to the conclusion that the neoee-

&ss^-

sse^saesss^-

-•aese

^^9^

GAZETTE OP FASfflON.

[December 1, 1869.

sitj of the case imposed an indispensable duty upon
them to take the initiative in devising some plan to
counteract this baneful influence, which, while it
operated detrimentallj on the " professional reputa-
tion" of the trade at the present time, was also calcu-
lated to compromise the character of the succeeding
generation of both master and journeymen tailors.

It was proposed at a committee meeting in Feb-
ruary of last year, and confirmed at a general meet-
ing in April of the present year, that a competition
should be established under the auspices of this
Society, to engender a taste for superior workman-
ship, and mark more strongly the distinction
between bespoke garments and those ready made;
as the latter can only be produced at their low
prices by a sacrifice of quality in the material, and
of a certain amount of workmanship to the prejudice
of the journeyman.

The Society, in their anxiety to carry out effi-
ciently the object contemplated, in the success of
which so many branches of trade are interested,
can^ to the determination to invite tailors of foreign
countries as well as of France to co-operate with
them, in order to give a greater stimulus to the
spirit of emulation which it was hoped would be
created by the proposition ; and by this means add
to the prosperity and raise the character of our
special branch of trade. The members generally
were requested to give every encouragement to their
workmen to enter into competition for the various
prizes which the Society intended to give.

The meeting for the distribution of the prizes and
honourable mentions awarded by the jury, appointed
to inspect the several garments sent in competition,
was held on the 7th of October last, and, as we have
already stated, in a large room especially engaged
for this purpose, to accommodate the number of
visitors who were expected to be present on this
occasion.

The proceedings were initiated by some remarks
from the President of the Society, M. Eeszler, who,
in addressing the company, stated that the Philan-
thropic Society of Master-Tailors of Paris, although
instituted to relieve the wants and assist the jour-
neymen belonging to the various members, when
overcome by illness, old age, or other infirmity, also

^^^

takes an interest in everything which affected their
trade as a body. It was with this view that one of
the moat influential and zealous of its members had
taken the initiative in the honourable competition
which they had met that evening to witness. The
President remarked: "This institution, as you are
aware, has for its object to stimulate and encourage
by emulation a taste for superior workmanship; and
it may be the means of raising our profession in
public estimation, and of distinguishing it from the
rival branch in ready-made clothing.

" We must not, however, suffer ourselves to remain
under a delusion. In order that these competitions
may be successful, and be really useful, it is essential
that they should be established on a large scale — ^that
a large number of masters and men take part in
them, so that our trade, as a body, should be fully
represented. For if the contest should be restricted
to a small number of competitors, it would have no
influence whatever on our profession, and would be
completely insignificant in character." Addressing
himself more particularly to the journeymen and
workwomen present, he said : " To you especially they
would have less interest, as the honour of carrying
off a prize is increased in proportion to the dif-
ficulty which is presented in the attempt.

'* In this point of view I beg to congratulate you.
The competition of this year shows a decided pro-
gress on that of the preceding one. A larger number
among you have entered the lists. Specimens have
been sent in from Paris, from the provinces, and
from abroad. Our own room would not have been
large enough to have acconmiodated you all ; that is
the reason why you have assembled here. If this
progress continue from year to year, the object of
our competitions will be satisfiictorily achieved, and
the whole trade, masters and men, cannot fiiil to
benefit considerably from the circumstance.

'^ I see also in this institution another inunediate
advantage. Already, in my imagination, I can fore-
see a happy residt, in the opportunity it affords for
establishing a better understanding between the
workmen and their employers.

" When I witness, on your side, this praiaewortliy
spirit of emulation for workmanship, and, on the part
of my fellow-tradesmen, that eagerness to assist in

^d^

^€^

<r0^^3 i ffi g^^9-^

December 1, 1869.]

GAZETTE OF PASfflON.

cc:^

the oeremon J of awarding the prizes to the successful
competitors, it appears to me like a pledge of the
spirit of juBtice and harmony which should always
exist between us.

'' You and we form the two branches of our large
professional family. The master has need of you, as
you also of him. Our interests are the same; our
union would constitute our force, and prosperity to
all of us. Those persons who preach to the workmen
defiance to the employers, and who represent them
as their natural enemies, are your real enemies, or
your flatterers, which is the same thing.

" AUomr me to quote a memorable example. I take
it from tbe period of our past differences ; but do not
be uneasy, it is only to confirm our present good
feeling.

" Two years and a half ago, in place of the agreeable
task which devolves now upon me to discharge, and
affords me so much pleasure, I, with several others,
was commissioned by my fellow-tradesmen to oppose
demands which many of you, I am aware, considered
unreasonable, but which were imposed upon all by a
dictatorial committee. This duty brought me into
contact with the writers for the press, and, among
others, with one of them who was the veiy soul of
your strike. I ought not and cannot, without his
pernnission, make public an admission he made to me
at our first interview. But it was of such a nature
that I assure you, on my honour, your advisers
occupied themselves with anything but your interests
and your welfare. Utterly regardless of your situa-
tion, it was with very different views that they
goaded you on, and crouched behind you, that they
held out deceitM promises to you to excite you on to
the struggle.

" Without them, the strike which divided us for a
whole month would not have lasted a week. In fact,
it never would have taken place. A friendly meeting
would have been held, as we wanted, and the ready-
made shops would not have profited to the extent of
10,000,000 (francs) of business at the least, which were
lost — ^without any chance of recovery — to you and to us.

" You perceive, then, where are your real interests
and your true fri^s. Our disputes settled, and our
family meeting of this evening, prove it to you in two
different ways.

" Having the privilege of addressing you, I was
anxious for the opportunity of bringing this circum-
stance to your knowledge, as it appeared to me to
show the good understanding which now exists
amongst us in a still more fi^vourable light.

'' In expressing my sincere desire that this good
feeling may be lasting, I at the same time convey
the good wishes of the whole Society, for so desirable
a consummation.

<< No one has a better feeling towards, or a higher
esteem for the working class, than its members for
their workpeople. Many of us have left your ranks,
and are justly proud of that noble origin. It is that
of ' work,^ and work is the most noble escutcheon a
man can have.

'^ Keturning to our competition, in the unavoidable
absence of M. Giboury, who had kindly undertaken
to give an account of the proceedings of the jury
appointed to examine your several specimens, your
Secretary will read their report; but before he enters
on his task, I beg to be allowed to make a few
observations.

'' As I have had the honour to be present at the
several long and careful inspections of the different
garments sent in competition, I am in a position to
bear testimony to the strict impartiality with which
the awards were made. The jury were elected by
ballot by the competitors themselves, equally from
the members of the Society and from their own class.

'* Every care was taken to prevent it being known
from which house, or by whose hands, the different
articles were made; a number only was affixed to
each. The Manager of our Society, who had the
charge of this duty, alone knew to whom each gar-
ment belonged. Even I, at the present moment, am
totally ignorant as to the names of the individuals to
whom I, with others, have awarded prizes. You
will perceive, from this explanation, that the deci-
sions weie come to in all casee totally unbiassed by
any illegitimate influence whatever.

« It must not, however, be inferred from my
remarks that there was no difference in opinion
among the jury ; such an event was an impossibility.
One considered one speciality as the test of excel-
lence in a garment, while others entertained different U[
opinions on the particular qualities which charac- ^ s

^b^

^e^esaS

9^e>^

*€^

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

[December 1, 1869.

terized the superiority of workmanship. One would
consider the facings being well put together, as a
proof; others would be in favour of the collar being
well made up, or the stitching being regular, the
edge being neatly finished, or the button-holes well
worked. Each one examined with his own eye, and
judged according to his particular bent. From this
circumstance, as may be supposed, arose differences
of opinion. Your jury does not claim to have been
infallible ; it has acted conscientiously and impar-
tially.

^' Having trespassed thus far on your patience, I
will no longer detain you from the more interesting
part of the proceedings, when you will receive the
rewards you have so justly earned. I will bring my
remarks to a conclusion by congratulating you, in
the name of the Society, as well as personally, for
the beautiful specimens of work which we have had
the opportunity to admire."

This address was received with the utmost enthu-
siasm, and vehemently applauded.

The Secretary, M. Charles Noel, then read the
report of the jury.

Alluding, in a few remarks, to the circumstance of
having been elected by the jury to the honour of
the position which he then filled, he begged, in their
names and for himself, to offer them his most sincere
thanks and congratulations.

^' A large portion of the specimens sent in for
competition give evidence of remarkable skill, while
all bear witness to a noble spirit of emulation, and
of efforts worthy of the highest praise. We are but
too happy in the privilege of offering you this well-
merited encomium.

'^ The progress made since the competition of last
year is palpable, especially in three of the classes.
Persevere in this right direction, for the prosperity
of a Society to which our hearts and souls are
attached, and for the honour of our profession. It is
one of the most important and the most useful — one
of those which enter lai^gely into the general opera-
tions of trade and the exchanges of the whole world.
It depends upon you — [addressing the workpeople
especially]— as much as the masters and foremen, to
preserve for Paris that reputation for elegance and
good taste, which has gained for it the distinction

for years of being the capital of the fiishionabie
world.

" Having giving utterance to these general com-
pliments, which are so well deserved, and which I
had so much at heart to offer to you, I will proceed
to the notice of the detailed examination of the
several specimens of work exhibited in the five
classes.

^' The first, as you are aware, comprises dress-coats
and double-breasted frocks.

" The second, morning-coats and Over-coata with
hip-buttons.

'' Over-coats of all other styles are included in the
third class.

*' The fourth consists of trousers, and the fiflh of
waistcoats.

" The specimens in the first class fully justify
the hope we entertained last year. The number of
dress-coats submitted is larger, and many of them
are exceedingly well made, while some are dis-
tinguished for their very superior merit. Our task
was thus rendered more difficult, and required more
delicacy on our part. It was impossible to award
prizes to all the specimens which fulfilled the specified
conditions for good workmanship; we have, however,
extended the circle of rewards. Instead of three
prizes, determined upon by the r^ulations of the
competition, we have increased the number to six,
independently of the same number of 'honourable
mentions.' The jury were anxious to prove, by this
act, their appreciation of the specimens sent in this
year, and also to hold out encouragement to future
competitors.

'^ In the second class, the number of specimens is
less than on the previous occasion, but here also the
improvement is clearly shown. One specimen espe-
cially attracted the attention of the jury, who unani-
mously awarded the first prize to it. Two other
additional prizes, and two ' honourable mentions,' have
also been added to the number originaUy intended.

''In the third class, we regret to state that the
number of specimens is less, as also is their merit. The
jury came to the unanimous resolution that it was
not advisable to award a first-class prize, but only a
second and a third. We trust, however, that in the
exhibition of next year, this class, of such importance

December l^ 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

and 80 varied a character, will take an ample reyengc
for the falling off in the present.

"The fourth class appeared to us to merit all
three prizes specified in the regulations, as well as
three ^honourable mentions.' The first prize was
awarded by the whole of the members of the jury
without a dissenting voice; not merely because the
trousers exhibited were equally well turned out as
others, and even surpassed them by the exoellence of
workmanship, but that they were entirely made hy
handy and for that reason ought to take precedence
of any made by the machine.

" In the fifth class — waistcoats — there is a large
collection. Several of the specimens are worthy of
notice, and the jury, by common accord, has voted
four prizes and five honourable mentions.

" It only remains for me to express the regret we
felt in seeing military clothing represented at our
exhibition by one solitary uniform coat. It is true
that it worthily represented this particular branch,
but a competition would have had the effect of adding
to the merit of the competitor. We appeal to the
military tailors to lend their assistance to an institu-
tion destined to advance the interests of all branches
of the tailoring trade.

" A special prize was awarded for this specimen
of excellent workmanship.

" In bringing my remarks to a conclusion, allow
me to express a hope we entertain of witnessing our
professional competition develop among masters and
men a spirit of harmony and union. It will establish
the prosperity of our particular industry, in promoting
the progress of which you are already taking an
important part by the specimens of workmanship we
are about to reward. These testify against the
reproach so frequently made against our branch of
trade, of falling off in quality.

" Persevere all of you, and you will justify in the
future the further progress which this year's competi-
tion leads us to hope for.**

The respected Secretary resumed his seat amidst
loud expressions of satisfaction at his remarks.

M. Jansens, who — as we stated in our last number
— was the originator of the idea of these competitions,
then addressed the meeting.

He opened his speech by referring to a remark

made last year, at their meeting for the distribution
of prizes, by one much loved and esteemed by them
all, '^ that he hoped, when the principle of the pro-
fessional competition was better appreciated, the
number of its supporters would increase, and that
the exhibition of articles would be still more effective."

He felt a pleasure in believing that the words of
their late President, M. Lafitte, " whose honourable
name, handed down from father to son, was one of
their professional honours,'' had exercised a right in-
fiuence, since the hope expressed was already realized,
in a double point of view, by the present exhibition,
and the increasing number of its supporters.

" I remember," he added, " that on the same occa-
sion our honourable President also remarked, that
our institution was, in a measure, an unfinished
work. In fact, many things were wanting.

" We were so straitened in our finances that our
condition drew expressions of regret fcom the jury.
Eventually, we must admit, the institution of the
competition revived, without any other assistance
than that of an obscure and but little encouraged
promoter. •

" Persevering still in the belief which he had car-
ried out in practice, he proposed for a second time,
as an idea of a noble origin, and destined to elevate
the feeling of the consideration due to professional
merit.

" In spite of this noble and praiseworthy character,
the competition of honour had great difficulty in ob-
taining a position among us, and it may be stated,
without exaggeration, that its existence hung sus-
pended between fear and hope ; for, up to that time,
no body had been sufficiently influential, or showed
itself disposed to give it its protection.

" But now how different is our position. On one
hand, the wise counsels of our late honourable
President; and, on the other hand, the reflections
which time naturally brings, have clearly shown
that a branch of trade like ours, is a precious patri-
mony ; the preservation of which imposes on all who
participate in its advantages, the duty of contributing
to the support of its prosperity.

" For my part I am but too happy and too proud
to witness thb happy change.

" Fifteen honourable names, among which figure

'^^

jtq:

^■^

'•

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[December 1, 1869.

the most distinguished men of our profession, have,
as members of the committee, come nobly forward
to the support of our primitive institution, and by
their active and business-like qualities^ looked into
all the wants of the competition. More than this;
they have made the purport of our scheme known
throughout France and abroad, in order to induce
a larger number of persons to take part in the
competition. The result is that nine of our pro-
vinces and two foreign capitals have responded to
the invitation, and have sent in specimens for the
general exhibition.

" We have had letters from trades in all parts of
the country, congratulating us on our undertaking
and offering their warmest sympathies for its succesa
All agree in the importance which these competitions
cannot fail to exercise on our trade, and augur from
them a brilliant futui-e.

" I do not hesitate to state that the good which
will follow, cannot but materially add to the import-
ance and prosperity of the Philanthropic Society of
Master-Tailors of Paris.

'^ I have the pleasing hope that you will all soon be
convinced that it is only by a constant attention and
endeavour to improve the professional character and
excellence of our trade, we can maintain a line
of demarcation between the l^itimate portion of our
trade and ready-made clothing, which, as has been
stated before, owes its existence entirely to low
prices, necessarily involving an inferiority in the
work.

" To bring about this desirable state of things, it
is incumbent on all well-disposed members of our
trade to imite more than ever — journeymen as well
as masters — in supporting this attempt in the im-
provement in sewing. In that lies the sole hope of
our branch of trade."

As M. Jansens^s good qualities have rendered him
an especial ^vourite with all classes, his speech was
listened to with great attention, and received with
much enthusiasm.

The Secretary then called over the names of the
successful competitors, who, as they came up, received
the prizes or honourable mentions awarded to them
for their work.

It woidd be of little interest to our readers for us to

}rc^ It wou

publish a list of names of the more fortunate emplotfis.
In running our eyes over it, we notice that several
foreign workmen, German and Belgian, have carried
off some of the higher prizes, which fact may have
a good effect in stimulating the French journeymen
to outdo their rivals on a future occasion.

The total amount distributed in prizes was 1120
francs, or about £44 16s. All who had an '^ honour-
able mention** also received a small sum of money;
and those who had money prizes, received a Society's
medal at the same time.

The meeting then separated, thoroughly satisfied
with the agreeable evening they had spent, and
were invited to attend in even larger numbers on the
next anniversary.

k«aiw«««>w»««ww«««i«M««hiw«w<w»

" A gfttherer and disposer of other men*s stuff.**— WoUon,

UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OF CUTTING.

By "Sabtor."
{Continued from page 48.)

TO THE editor OF THE "GAZETTE OF FASHION.**

Sir,
Although the form of Over-coat known by various
names as the " Inverness Cape," the " Deer-stalker,"
and, lastly, as the " Carlisle Cape" (when the great
desideratum in the shape of a sleeve was added to
complete the comfort of the wearer), is not so much
in vogue as formerly, there can be no question of its
advantages for travelling, whether by rail or by the
road ; and these, no doubt, have retained it still in
wear in many parts of the coimtry, in spite of the
decrees of fashion in the metropolis. To show the
application of my system to this particular shape of
garment, will not, therefore, be out of place; and I
trust your readers, who may have the opportunity of
putting it into practice, will bo benefited by the
simplicity with which, by means of my rules, it may
be produced, and with the ease they will find in the
proportions and fit. With these few introductory
remarks, I will proceed to lay before them the
necessary directions for their guidance.

I am. Sir, your obedient servant,

" Sartor."

^^^

^€^

?^^5^

■eQ^

Becexbeb ly 1869.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

Stotkm for Pboducino the Inverness Cape

WITH Sleeves.

To Form the Forepart and Back.

Diagram 9.

Draw the centre line A F. From A, in con-
tinuation of this line, mark upwards three-quarters of
an inch. Mark on the line A F, at B, one-sixth of
the actual breast-measure, to determine the fh)nt of
the neck ; to C, one-fourth, for the direction of the
cape-line; to D, half the breast ; and at E, the length
of natural waist. From E, square with E F, draw
a line, and mark out to G two inches. A line drawn
from A, through G, will represent the centre of the
back; on it mark at F the length to measure, which,
for this style of coat, and the purpose for which it is
intended, should always be long.

On the square line drawn from the point above
A, mark at H, one-sixth of the breast, to determine
the straightness of the forepart, and at I, eight inches,
as a guide for the spring of the side-seam.

This, however, is not necessarily a fixed quantity,
as the distance will be governed by the amount of
compass required in the coat. It may be lessened or
increased at pleasure. I find the quantity I have
given produces sufiicient width for the average of
figures.

Draw a line from C square with A C, and on it, at
J, mark two-thirds of the breast A line drawn
from H, through J, will find the spring of the cape,
adding about two inches above J for the round of
the back-edge.

From D, square with A D, draw a line, and mark
on it, at K, one-eighth more than half the breast.
A line drawn from I, through K, will determine the
direction of the side- seam for both forepart and back,
if the coat is not to have a sleeve sewn in.

To determine the proper amount of round for the
shoulder-seam of the back, mark down the back-
seam (the line drawn from A through G) from A to
the * two-thirds. Make this a pivot, and cast from
H to K. Make a pivot at H, and cast frx)m the
bottom of the back-seam to the bottom of the side-
seam. The bottom of the forepart is regulated by
casting from the bottom of the side-seam, making A
a pivot instead of H.

When the coat is not intended to have sleeves, the
roulette lines indicate the shape of the scye of the
forepart, which, after all, is a matter of taste, as some
cutters prefer it very open and deep, while others
make it only sufiiciently large for the arm to pass
easily in and out.

As shown on the diagram, the shape is found by
marking one-fourth from C, on the line C J, and one-
third from D, on the line D K. Make the width of
shoulder-seam of forepart about an inch — sufiicient
to connect the back with — and form the scye from H
through the two points just obtained, lowering it to
a point at one-sixth of the breast below K. The
form will materially differ when a sleeve is inserted.
In that case, mark from the angle of the line drawn

above A, through H, to L, one-twelfth more than
half the breast, and from C to J two-thirds. A line
drawn from L, through J, will determine the direction
of the side-seam of the forepart, that of the back
remaining as already directed.

On this new side-seam mark down to M,.from L,
1 } inch ; and from J, mark to N, the same quantity,
but lower the point N a little from the line C J. In
closing, the space from L to M is sewn on to that
between J and N, so as to complete the shape of the
scye, which is formed by the points M, O, P, K,
and N.

Form the neck from H, through B, and continue
it to K, about two inches beyond the line A F.
Draw a line from H, through a point at an inch out
from G, for the front-edge of the forepart, and
parallel with this draw another, at whatever distance
may be determined for the width of the lapel. Take
out a V at the neck.

There only remains to form the cape. Determine
on the line— -drawn from H, through a point at two
inches above J — the length to which you intend to
cut the cape, and cast the run of the bottom-edge,
making a pivot at A. Lower the neck of the cape
half an inch at front, and form the front-edge, adding
about an inch at bottom beyond the line drawn from
E through a point marked out beyond G.

To Form the Sleeve.

DUQRAM 4.

Draw the line A F. Mark on it, at B, half an
inch less than one-third of the breast ; at C, half an
inch less than half; at D, one-twelflh less than the
breast-measure ; at E, the length taken to the elbow ;
and at F, the frill length of the sleeve.

Make a pivot at D, and cast a segment of a circle
from B ; make a pivot at B, and intersect this seg-
ment at G, by another drawn from D.

On the segment from B to G, mark a point at H
— an inch nearer to B than half the distance between
B and G — and form the sleeve-head from C, through
H, to G. Make a pivot at C, and describe a segment
of a circle from F. Mark on it at I, half the breast
from F ; mark from I to K, the width the sleeve is
to be cut at the bottom, and draw a line frx)m one
point to the other. Shape the fore-arm, slightly
hollowing it from a straight line drawn from G to I,
and form the hind-arm from B to F, adding on what-
ever round beyond the line may be required.

Some persons may consider that I have been un-
necessarily profuse with my instructions for pro-
ducing this garment, and may think my plan rather
complicated in detail; they must bear in mind that,
although this form of Overcoat was very generally
in wear for some time, but very few cutters had any
plan for producing it, but trusted almost to their
judgment in drafting the shape. The style being
defined necessitates more points being given to de-
termine the shape, which is not the case in fitting
garments, that are regulated by the fashion of the day.

^^^?5^S^8^^^^

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^^^^^^^s^s^?^^^

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

[December 1, 1869.

CUTTER'S RIGHT-HAND MEASURE.

99, Etut Street, Walworth,

Nov. 19, 1869.

to the editor of the " gazette of fashion."
Sir,

My attention having been called, by several houses
in the trade, to a statement that has been published
respecting the " Cutter's Right-hand Measure," as not
being a new idea, as the maker of the London mea-
sure, and the proprietor of this improved tape, I beg
to state that the plan is quite new, and was never
carried out before. Graduated tapes have been made
for many years, and were patented by the late Mr.
Read. On them the arrangement of the figures is
from right to left, but the standard inch tape was
alway omitted until quite lately, and then the com-
mon inch or lefl-hand tape was added.

My idea was to give the trade a standard inch
measure for the cutting-board, on which, when used,
the figures would read upright and in a natural posi-
tion. Moreover, the improvement which I made
was this, and not to be found in any other kind of
measure — the divisional parts of the inches are
placed at the lower edge of the tape, instead of at
the top, as the Graduated Measures are marked.
Being underneath, it is more convenient for the
cutter, and suits the mode of marking much better
than having the divisions on the upper edge, away
from him.

I enclose pieces of the two makes of measures for
your inspection, that you may see I was justified
in the claim I made for novelty in my arrangements,
and to set this important matter straight with the
tailoring and trimming trades.

Yours respectfully,

" Dean."

k«>w%««i«MnMV»««i«MAM«»«*>**«»«Awawtt«nf«<«iWW

EVENING-DRESS.

On one of the plates issued with the present
number of our work, we have represented the present
style of evening-dress. The two figures illustrate
different forms of front to the coat — one with a bold
rolling collar; the other with the ordinary shaped
lapel, and a collar with a frock-end. The pattern
we give in our collection in diagram will supply all
necessary information as to detail and proportion.
Blue is decidedly the most fashionable for full-dress,
with velvet collars and fancy gilt buttons. The
foreparts are faced to the back of the holes, or to the
lapel- seam only, with plain, ribbed, or watered silk,
and the skirts lined with levantine or silk serge.
The edges are turned in and stitched, or have a
narrow silk braid sewn on them. In the round cuff
there is one button and hole, or without a hole.
Some trades prefer two.

The bold roll is faced with silk or cloth, to fancy.

The waistcoat is made to open very low, and cut
away at front without a collar. The trousers are cut
plain, and easy to the leg, and to fall easily on the

foot. The side-seams are plain, or finished with a
narrow silk braid, usually plain.

■l««*««%««>«.«MW»W>«*.ai«»««W*«MM«M«»

We have represented on another plate two different
styles of Over-coats — one for travelling, cut loose in
the form of a " sac ; " the other in the style of a
Chesterfield, moderately fitting, and with a cape.
Some trades are cutting the former st^le of coat
much longer, to reach to the ankle, and to fasten
round the waist with a belt.

The introduction of a cape is now a novelty, but
we think there is a tendency to resume this little
addition, and that next year we may see it attempted.

The two figures on the third plate show back and
front views of a double-breasted frock-coat.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.
Plates 1431 and 1432.

Diagrams 1, 2, 4, 6, and 10, are the pattern of the
prevailing style of dress-coat for the season.

Diagrams 3 and 12, are the pattern of a fashionable
waistcoat for evening wear.

Diagrams 5, 8, 11, and 13, are the pattern of a
novel form of Over-coat.

The back (diagram 8) is produced very similar in
shape to that of an ordinary " sac," but very long,
and perhaps generally with rather more compass; as
from the extreme length to which the coat is cut, an
additional compass in the lower part is necessary to
allow perfect freedom in the movement of the legs.
The top of the back is rather broader, and the end of
the shoulder-seam cut lower than usual, on account
of the strap.

The forepart (diagram 13) is very different in
appearance and in shape. The bold rolling collar is
cut on to the front, and instead* of the shoulder being
of the proper length, it is cut so as to correspond
with a shoulder-strap (diagram 11), which is sewn
in to make up the required length, for the proper sit
of the garment. This strap may be sewn on the top
of the shoulder, instead of in with the forepart and
back, and so form a strapping. This is a preferable
plan for character, and the seams all to be lapped and
stitched. The bottom-edge of the collar must be kept
easy, to prevent it binding on the shoulder, as the
front of the coat may be worn fastened up high. The
edge from to 74 is sewn on or over that represented
on the forepart by the space between the point 8 J,
on the line drawn from 11, and the point 10 on the
line below.

This forms an elegant style of Over- coat for the
winter, made up in a fur beaver or some other warm
but light make of goods, with fur collar, cuffs, and
edging, and fastened at front by loops of braid or cord
and olivets. Lined with silk or Italian cloth quilted
and stitched in rows or in diamond figures — which is
now easily accomplished by the machine — would add
to the richness of the appearance.

*^^^^2gE^9^^

RDWAIin MINISTKR AND SON

/. ■/■,y.//^4L, i-V.^.«/^4r,/«-

i .

)

Acmia-rL3M::s,'m®i'iFi!^Wdmi — jeea.

EDWARD MINISTKR AND SON

London .

Mecemierl'-L ^Mu^TXlvi l'}^S,:E.WSm — 1669.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON

' »" ■■

• *.

-?.

December fM869,

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1431

E C. Minister

Deceniber ?M869.

GAZETTE OF FASHION

PlaleI432.

/imI//A Michelei, Srtk/bjire/,

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

Ain>

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

No.8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

Jasuart 1, 1870.

TO OUR KIND PATRONS ON A NEW YEAR.

There is a magic charm in tlio worda " A New
Year," ivhich afH^ta us all, wlialever our individual
prospects may be .it its commencement — vrlietber
eacouraging or disheartening.

The very aound exercises an influence over us,
and, as it were, brings with it hopes of a liappy
future, in spits of what we may have gone through.
Wc would wish with all sincerity, that such may be
its effects on all our readers ; and that, notwithstanding
the dulncsa which prevailed during the past year,
and which unfortunately few of us can ignore, we
may, with the words of a popular song, take fresh
courage for that which has been ushered in, and
trust that " a good time is coming."

Personally, the occasion is an opportunity for ex-
pressing our best thanks to our uumeroas patrons,
for the kind and continued support we receive from
them, and for acknowledging with gratitude the
flattering opinion tlie trade as a body entertains of

^i^^r^-

oiir work, and of our exeition* to uphold the re-
apectubllity and credit of our particular profession.

Such approbation, as iilninly evinced by the cnn-
stant addition of the names of highly respectable
firms to our list of subscribers,- is calciilnled to
stimulate us to fresh cITorts, so as to testify, by our
renewed vigour, our deep sense of the high eulogiiims
passed upon us as chroniclers of the passing fiishion
of the djy, and in disseminating practical inrorniation
to the less CNptrienced members of our branch of

As tvc Iiavc been judged by our past acts, so wc
would wish to be judgcil by our future efforts; and no
more powerful incentive by way of encouragement
could possibly be de^red, than tlie hope of being
worthy of the position in wliich the trade has so
generously placed ua, 'J'hat our readers may have
"A Happy New Year," witli nil prosperity, is our
most sincere wish; .ind tliat it niny be the precursor
to many others equally furtunato.

-*€aS^»e

^9^

^e^6?$3iS^^^9^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[January 1, 1870.

ON THE NECESSITY

FOR IMPROVING THE PRESENT RACE OF

JOURNEYMEN-TAILORS.

We published in our last number an account of
the proceedings of the Philanthropic Society of
Master-Tailors of Paris, at the second meeting for
the distribution of prizes for superior workmanship,
and we trust our translation of the report made by
the sub-committee of their exertions, and of the
results, was perused with pleasure by the majority
of our readers, for whom the object in view would
have sufficient interest to enlist their sympathies in
its behalf.

Old practitioners, who were brought up regularly
to this trade according to the old nde, cannot but be
sensible of the fact that, as a class, journeymen-
tailors do not maintain the position they formerly
held for the superiority of their handicraft. We do
not mean to infer by this observation that the jour-
neymen-tailors of this country alone have retro-
graded, but to include those of all the different parts
of the Continent, who were at one time so justly
celebrated for the excellence of their sewing.

While lamenting this falling off in one branch,
we scarcely know if we can take any comfort to our-
selves in the thought that their judgment in putting
garments together has improved, or that the style of
their work is superior to that of their predecessors.

Among our numerous readers, who belong to the
best trades in town and the provinces, we must ne-
cessarily include several as competent to form an
opinion in this respect as ourselves, and we confi-
dently appeal to them to confirm our statement.

Change of fashion may, perhaps, be charged with
this decline, but we cannot conceive that any change
— no matter how great in character — could lead to a
fisdling off in the quality of the sewing. The differ-
ence in the present styles, compared with those of
the period to which we allude, is not calculated to
exercise any detrimental influence on the ability of
the journeyman, as good sewing would be as effective
and as well appreciated now as it was formerly. We
are afraid we must look to other causes for the de-
cline. The Society, \vliosc proceedings we have

reported, has evidently felt the importance, in a
commercial point of view, of maintaining the posi-
tion they formerly held in the fashionable world,
and with some truth advert to the loss of prestige
they have suffered in the estimation of their cus-
tomers. This cannot, however, be attributed entirely
to the inferiority in the work of their journeymen,
as, in spite of the regret so feelingly expressed by
the principal speakers on the occasion of the meet-
ing, French journeymen-tailors unquestionably excel
those of this or any other country for judgment and
ability. Of course, we refer to those employed in
the best trades, and whose wages admit of the neces-
sary time being given to the turning of a garment
well out of hand.

The inferiority in the quality of the trade, which
we will assume is admitted, cannot be attributed to
a falling off in wages, as a comparison between the
prices now paid by our principal trades, with those
paid by our predecessors in business, or even by
many of ourselves formerly, will bear out the state-
ment that, taking into account the great difference
in the amount of trade put into the present gar-
ments, journeymen would earn considerably higher
wages now than formerly.

Just for an example, take a dress-coat as formerly
made, with six holes in the lapel, a collar 3 by 4,
with we do not know how many rows of good
stitching in the stand, and no end of sewing in the
fall, with the usual accompaniment of soap and
pressing; sleeve with a cuff and three buttons and
holes at the hand ; waist-seam rantered, flaps to the
skirts, side-edges, edges stitched and fudged, forepart-
facings with row afler row of stitching, lapels stitched
to match the fall of the collar, with soaping included.
Against this, take a dress-coat as now made up. A
collar 1 } by 2, with scarcely any work at all in it,
and a thin doeskin or sofl Tweed for the padding;
four holes in the lapel; edges turned in and stitched;
plain round cuff; but little sewing in the breast-
facings; frock -end collar; plain plait; yet the wages
for this coat are considerably higher, in the first-
class houses, than were paid for the other style of
coat we have described. If we take a pair of
trousers, the case is equally strong. Fly-fronts,
without wai^jtbands; French or side-pockets; plain

^^^

^^^^SSSS^si^^^^

cCi:^

Jakuabt 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASmON.

seams, and without buttons at the bottom; usuallj
made tip in a soft angola or doeskin, easy to sew ;
whereas, in our early days, they were made of a
hard cassimere or kersey, with waistband sewn on,
split or whole fall, frog-pookets, with welts fre-
quently sewn on, strap-buttons, and a slit at the
bottom of the side-seams. No tailor will contend,
for one moment, that there is any point of compari-
son between the two, and yet this trouser was not
paid for anything like the present wages, and was to
be made in ten hours according to the 'Mog" then
in use.

We are not about to discuss the question of wages,
as we are aware an allowance must be made, for the
high price of sereral articles of living and rent, now
entails upon the journeyman an increased expenditure
for the support of himself and family. We do not,
however, see how these affect the quality of the
sewing, as, if the journeyman were equal to his task,
the difference in wages should admit of equally good
trade being put in the garment, without diminishing
his weekly earnings; whereas we have actually in-
ferior work for higher wages.

We may be prejudiced, but are inclined to think
something of this inferiority, in the mechanical part
of our trade, is to be attributed to the discontinuing
workshops, and to the men working at home. When
a number of men were employed in a shop, there
was a certain stimulus given to the less skilful
journeyman by the more talented, and every indi-
vidual workman took, as it were, his cue from some
more enlightened shopmate. By this means the tyro
rose in point of excellence, stimulated by Ihe ex-
ample constantly before his eyes. We think tfiis
system also ensured a greater degree of uniformity
in the quality and style of the trade, than is likely
to be obtuned by men working isolated, as their
time is generally pretty well taken up by their work,
and they have little opportunity of seeing other
men*s trade. Aided by the assistance of members of
their families, of course their earnings may be con-
siderably increased beyond the amount their single
work would bring them in. This fact, and the
inconvenience so often attending having workshops
on the premises, at least in the London trades, led to
their being very generally discontinued, and, as we

cannot but think, to the prejudice of the sewing part
of our trade.

If we take the case of military tailors, we fear our
argument will tell with even greater force. Let any
tailor recall to mind the elaborate imiforms which
were worn before the great revolution took place in
the dress regulations of the army, such as the Horse
Artillery with its beautifully ornamented breasts;
the Hussar dress, with pelisse, both highly trimmed;
the Rifle jacket, equally handsome; to say nothing of
the rich uniforms of the Indian Cavalry, and compare
any of them with the uniforms of the present period.

Have we the men competent to do this work
among our present generation of journejrmen ? Yet
there were plenty formerly, some of whom may now be
found among the pensioners of the Benevolent Insti-
tution for the Relief of Aged and Infirm Journeymen-
Tailors.

The step taken by the leading members of the
Philanthropic Society is sure to meet with the sym-
pathy not only of the master-tailors of France, but
we should think of the master-tailors throughout the
whole Continent; and we trust the trade in this
country will not be backward in co-operating for so
desirable a purpose.

By one of the caprices of that notoriously fickle
goddess, Fashion, English tailors, at the present time,
hold the first place in the estimation of the iUu of
foreign society. It can easily be imderstood that
Parisian tailors, who for so long a period ruled su-
premely over the whole civilized world in matters of
dress, would not be altogether pleased at the decline
of their preside, and, however laudable the attempt
set on foot to improve the quality of the mechanical
department of our trade, their altered position as the
arbiters of fashion is not to be enUrely laid to the
score of the inferiority in sewing at the present time,
compared with that d^ee of excellence which, as we
have stated, was so remarkable formerly.

The several gentlemen of the Philanthropic Society
who gave the first impulse to this scheme, are entitled
to the thanks of the trade at large for the good motive
they had in view, and for the trouble and pains they
have taken to carry out their object, and may be
assured of the best wishes of our community for the
complete success of their project

^5*

^-e^e^^^^^^

■ /

9^^^

ey-^0

ro o

GAZETTE OF FASHIOX.

[Januaky 1, lb70.

We shall be but too Imppj to witness anj such
attempt on the part of the leading members of the
trade in this country, and cannot but think that an
equally satisfactory result might follow their exertions.

Some such scheme must necessarily be planned in
self-defence, for if, by continued perseverance on the
part of the Parisian master-tailors and by the will-
ing co-operation of their workpeople, a decided im-
provement should be effected in the quality of sew-
ing and in the judgment of the journeymen, the
master- tailors of this country will have to contend
against the progress so made in our trade ; and, in
order to hold their own, will be compelled to adopt
similar measures to place themselves on the same
footing in competing for the patronage of the beau
inonde.

The question will, we trust, be ventilated by the
proceedings of the Parisian Society ; and, encouraged
by its success, we look forward with confidence to
the initiative being taken in this coimtry, by some of
the many philanthropists whose previous acts bear
testimony to their kindness of heart, and considera-
tion for the interest of the labouring class.

iwow**— »«»»»««»» «!«»»■. %»«»»■ wxao

"A gatherer and disposer of other men's stuff.**^ Wotton,

to the editob of the ''gazette of fashion."
Sir,

Being fond of my business as a tailor, and taking
a pleasure in experimentalizing on the various plans
of cutting which have come under my notice, it will
not surprise you to be told that your monthly pub-
lication, the Gazette of Fashion, has been a source
of great amusement and informaUon ever since I
became a subscriber.

The system lately published by you, invented by
'' Sartor,** excited my attention from the peculiarity
and novelty of the basis of construction ; and although,
perhaps apparently, from the plan, it might seem
more complicated than some others I had studied, I
found, on following the directions which the author
has so carefully given, that I could readily produce
the several garments on which he has already treated.

There is, however, one point on which I could wish
to have some explanation, if your correspondent
would not consider me importunate in making the
request.

In the directions for producing a coat for a corpu-
lent figure, page 17 of the July number, " Sartor "
writes: "I mark beyond L, one inchy and the same

quantity beyond M When the waist is

less than the breast, I deduct, as I have already
stated, one-fourth of the difference between the two,
and mark it on the line E, from M, as this point de-
termines the position of the edge of the side-body-
seam opposite tlie hollow of the waiat When, on
tlie other hand, as in the case before me, the waist
exceeds the breast-measure, by carrying out the edge
of the side-body-seam one inch beyond L and M, I
obtain a proportion of the additional size in the back
and under the arms, while I reduce the width of my
forepart across the chest as such figures require."

The question I would ask refers to the quantity
marked beyond L.

I quite agree with the author of this ingenious
system, that corpulent men require their coats pro-
duced small across the breast from the front of the
scye to the front-edge of the forepart. The scye
also, for a man of this particular make, requires to be
small in proportion to his size, for the reason so
clearly explained by you in your treatise on cutting,
and for which reason you recommend a special mea-
sure to be taken, in addition to the others, to deter-
mine the size to which the coat should be propor-
tioned. It a certain quantity be added on beyond L,
while necessarily reducing the width of the breast
across to X, will it not also enlarge the space between
the back-seam and the front of the scye, and so do
away with one of the features considered essential in
a large-waisted coat — ^viz., the reduced circumference
of the scye ?

I have seen some patterns of coats for corpulent
men, with a small V taken out of the scye of the
forepart, in order to reduce the size without inter-
fering with the width of the forepart below. The
plan recommended by your correspondent would
appear to me to produce an effect in opposition to
the usually admitted idea. Perhaps " Sartor ** would
not mind favouring me, through the medium of your

«6^e^s^^^j^-

g<7^

January 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

pages, vrith his explanation of this apparent dis-
crepancy in the operation of his system.

He will not, I trust, view my remarks as offering
any criticism on his method, but simply dictated by
my inability to reconcile his directions with the
general opinion of cutters.

Thanking him for the information I have gained
from his plan and observations, and you for allowing
me a space in your pages,

I am, Sir,

Yours respectfully,

" T. M. J."

«Bi«»«W«**«*<«»«*W»

THE "ULSTER" OVER-COAT.

Among the novelties of this season we may notice
a peculiarly striking style of Over-coat, which is
known by the above name ; and, by a singular coin-
cidence, it has made its appearance also in Paris.

Contrasted with the length to which Over-coats, ns
well as other styles of coats, have lately been worn,
this new form has an ungraceful appearance, owing
to the extreme to which it is carried. In fact, it is
more like a dressing-gown, in proportion, than a
walking-coat. .

If we traced the origin of this shape, we should be
carried back to the style of great-coat worn by the
Irish peasantry ; certain alterations have necessarily
been made in the form to adapt it as an Over-coat
for gentlemen, and, as now presented, although by no
means a garment remarkable for elegance, it may be
made a comfortable companion for travelling. In
our opinion this constitutes its special value.

As will be seen by our illustration, this style of
coat is cut very long and moderately full. There is
a long opening at the bottom of the back-seam, with
a tacking and three buttons and holes, the latter not
worked in a fly. The coat is double-breasted, with
a bold lapel and five holes. The neck is cut high
and short, as it is not customary to wear the coat
open. It is not, however, indispensable for the cut.
The collar is in the old shape formerly worn with
Chesterfields, or driving '* sacs," and has a tab sewn
on to one end to admit of the throat being protected
against cold or wet. The sleeve is full, but equally

— e€:^

vi^r!

FVTV

so all down, with the exception of at the bottom,
which is only moderate in width. It is usually
made plain, without either cuff or opening. The
edges are turned in and double-stitched.

There are different ways of using the belt. Some
place it, as shown on our drawing, at the hollow of
the waist, with a loop at each side-seam to pass it
through and support it in its proper place, and fasten
it at front on to the button in the fourth row, and
sew a loop on to the front- edge of the left forepart to
confine the end of the tab. Others have two buttons
sewn at one end, one behind the other, so as to draw
the coat in closer at the waist, if desired. As this
style of Over-coat is made essentially for comfort,
there [is generally an ample supply of pockets. One
outside the left breast, or one on each, with fiaps; a
ticket-pocket on the right forepart, above the belt ;
one in each skirt across, with a deep fiap ; and a small
pocket, with a welt aslant on each skirt, above the
other, with a fiap, large enough and deep enough to
contain the hand.

An open mixture, in light grey Witney or frieze,
is the most fashionable.

This form of Over-coat, as made up in Paris, pre-
sents a strong contrast in detail with that we have
just described. The lapel is broader, and there are
only four holes in it It is worn to turn to the
second hole, and the collar has a regular stand rather
low, but broad in the fall, especially at the end.
There are two pockets in each forepart, one in the
firont, and the other below the waist, both openings
cut aslant, and placed in parallel lines, and with
deep welts or fiaps to cover them. Some have fitips
to the breast-pockets, and welts to the pockets in the
skirts.

The back is cut very differently to the shape worn
in town. The upper part consists of a piece in the
shape of the " yoke " in some shirts, extending to
the sleeve, and joining to the shoulder-seam of the
forepart, and with a point at the centre. The lower
portion of the back is cut whole, very full, and
without any opening at the bottom. It is attached
to the bottom-edge of the " yoke "-piece, being
usually passed under it. The back, therefore, from
the " yoke," hangs very full.

A broad belt is sewn on to each side-seam, and is

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GAZETTE OF FASHION.

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[Januauy 1, 1870.

fastened with two buttons, one placed behind the
other. Bj this arrangement the fulness of the back
is confined to the back itself, and the coat, as seen at
front, presents the ordinary appearance of a " sac."
The collar is made of velvet, and the edges are bound
broad with braid.

The sleeve is large, and wide at the hand, without
a cuff. It is trimmed with a handsome design, in a
bold cord — after the fashion of the sleeves of the
military great-coat worn by officers in the French
army — which is carried up on the top-side sleeve
higher than the elbow. Of the two styles, we de-
cidedly give the preference to the French " Ulster."

NEW STYLE OF MORNING-COAT.

On one of the plates we issue with the present
number of our work, we have illustrated the form of
morning-coat represented by the pattern in diagram
in our collection. It is quite original in shape, and
possesses a distinguishing feature which gives it a
stylish character.

The waist is only moderate in length, and the hip-
buttons placed a medium distance apart. It is
double-breasted, with a bold lapel cut on. There
are but three holes worked in it, but as if four were
marked up. As will be perceived, on reference prin-
cipally to the pattern itself, the bottom of the front-
edge of the lapel is cut off from the lower hole, and
with a sharp angle, and the front of the skirt slightly
hollowed to run with it, and square at the bottom.
This style of front has the effect of shortening the
length of lapel to the eye, and is a decided change to
anything we have hitherto had. The sleeve is easy
to the arm, is made without a cuff, and has one
button and hole at the hand, with a short slit The
top of the lapel is well pointed, and the comer
slightly cut off. There are flaps in the waist-seam,
with or without pockets under to fancy, and one out-
side the left forepart. Velvet collars are worn with
this style of coat, when made in plain colours or small
mixtures. The edges are bound with a silk braid.

There is nothing particularly new in the double-
breasted frock-coat represented on the other figure
on this plate. In the style illustrated, it might be

made in a &ncy elastic coating, or in a small dia-
gonal Tweed, with equal effect

We have given two styles of lounge-jacket on the
third plate; one with a long turn thrown well back
on the chest, and very much cut away at the bottom
of the front-edge. It has four holes in the lapel,
which is only moderate in width. There is an open-
ing at the bottom of the back-seam, but made up
plain. Full sleeve, with a deep round cuff and two
buttons without holes. Collar low in the stand, and
half an inch deeper in the fall. Flaps across the
hips with pockets xmder ; edges turned in and
stitched narrow.

The other is also double-breasted, with a bold
turn to the third hole, and square at the bottom and
not cut off. Both are worn short, but the latter is
the shorter of the two. This style may be made of
velveteen or of any &ncy make of coating or beaver.
The edges are trimmed with a braid sewn on flat

It will be observed that moming-trouseni are now
cut much larger at the bottom, and to spring on to
the foot. The top-side will not require to be hol-
lowed, and the side-seam should be cut longer, as the
trouser reaches closer to the sole of the boot

Blue is now the prevailing colour for evening-
dress coats, with velvet collars and gilt buttons.
Mounted buttons are the most fashionable, with a
rose, a shamrock, or a thistle, or the three emblems
combined. Plain gilt, either flat or convex, are also
in demand, of a medium size. The fine line-pattern
tells well on a dress-coat. There is no doubt but
that, now the small end of the wedge has been in-
serted by the adoption of gilt buttons for evening-
dress, they will be also introduced on morning
and riding coats as formerly. Cuffis, and two or
three buttons and holes at the hand, are now gene-
rally worn. Silk, breast-fiudngs are being discon-
tinued, and the plain lapel and firock-end collar are
mostly made up. The lapel is frequently cut on.

K«W«*««««p«»««««MiW»W««A«*>«f«

TO THE MASTER-TAILORS OF LONDON,

Gentlemen,
Most of you are aware during the summer of 1867
considerable excitement prevailed in our trade. It

^CA

^9^

<^'C:^

Januart 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

was mj imfbrtaDftte lot to be mixed up ia the
straggle. I took the part of the masters, and pro-
duced the evidence that broke up the confederation
of the men, and placed the leaders within the power
of the law; of coarse I was- then considered their
avowed enemy, not alone of the few, their number
were thousands.

The jeers, sneers, scoffings, and threats, direct and
indirect, I had to encounter for seventeen months,
was more than I or any human being could bear.

At length my nervous system gave way — the
result was apoplexy in a violent form.

To the great rejoicing of those who were frustrated
in their design, I was blind, speechless, and helpless
for some time.

Twelve months have passed, I am still helpless.

Under these circumstances I appeal to those in
whose service I shrank not from advocating their
cause. I ask the Master-Tailors, one and all, in the
name of Hiu who lifls up and oasts down, to re-
member this.

I have a family depending on me.

I have not the means of living without some

business. I must try for a quiet business, with your

help, that my wife and children can attend to, to

help us on in future. All of you are aware that the

man who lives by labour requires health to labour.

The loss of my health arises by advocating your

cause.

I am, GrenUemen,

Yours respectAillyi

RiCHABD Price.

8, Rarrington Street, Hampetead Rood^
Nov. 18, 1869.

Deeply regretting the painful position, mental
as well as physical, to which Mr. Price has been
brought by the anxiety he underwent during the
period of the late lamentable strike in our trade,
we willingly lend him our humble assistance in
making his case generally known to the masters.
It will not be necessary to recapitulate the proceed-
ings either of the Master-Tailors' Association or of
the society formed by the journeymen on the occa-
sion to which we have referred, as, notwithstanding
the anger and bad feeling engendered and fostered

for party purposes, and for purely interested motives
on the part of several of the principal actors, the
event is now a thing of the past, although unfor-
tunately there are too many who still feel the baneful
effect of the estrangement between master and man
which then took place, and who now regret the
money contributed from their hard earnings for the
pittance doled out to those on the strike, to defray
their lawyer's expenses, and support the leading
members and staff of their society. Although the
sum expended by the Master-Tailors' Association
was large, they still have the satisfaction of knowing
that it enabled them to break up the league against
them; and, however much inconvenienced many of
them may have been for a time, they were able to
strike a blow, and we trust an efiectual one, against
the possibility of a repetition of the experiment.

Our readers will remember how eagerly the pro-
vincial masters co-operated with the London trades,
by which means the position assumed by the Masters'
Association necessarily increased in importance, and
in the influence it exercised throughout the. whole
country.

While, however, the sinews of war were liberally
furnished, there was still a something more required
to complete the task on which the masters had
engaged; this was fortunately, in a great measure,
effected by the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Price,
who, as many of our readers will be aware, was at
that time in the employ of Mr. Bowater, of Hanover
Street, Hanover Square — the Vice-President of the
Masters' Association — as foreman.

In the first paragraph of his appeal to the masters,
he states what were the special services he rendered
on this occasion, and any one who was acquainted
with the proceedings being taken, will be able to
understand and appreciate the value of these services
rendered to the whole body of the trade.

Their effect and their influence were not confined
to the trade of this metropolis, but extended over the
whole kingdom ; as, if the exertions of the Association
had not been successful in London, counter societies
would have risen up all over the country, and the
evil would have rapidly multiplied.

The services rendered to the Association by Mr.
Price had, therefore, this additional importance in

"^i^^

^^€::^x:^ga 8 C^3^c^

■^'6^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[jANUiBT

their consequences, as, by his unwearied labours,
frequently inyolving a personal risk in their perform-
ance, measures were so skilfully taken as to bring
the leaders of the journeymen's society within the
cognizance of the law ; but who, as we know, owing
to the clemency of the masters, were allowed to
escape the punishment which might have been
inflicted upon them, the object not being so much to
punish as to assert the law for the protection of all
interests.

We shall have much pleasure in receiving any
sums which a consideration of the case may induce
any of our readers to contribute; and, shoidd a com-
mittee be formed — as we have little doubt there will
be— of the members of the Association, we shall hand
over to it any amounts forwarded to us for this
purpose.

LECTURE ON TROUSER CUTTING.

We are requested by Mr. Cocks — who, agreeably
with t}ie announcement which appeared in our last
number, intimated his intention to give a lecture on
Trouscr Cutting, on the 16th of last month — to state
that, owing to the very unfavourable state of the
weather on that day, he thought it due to his nume-
rous friends to postpone the lecture until the 17th of
the present month, when it will be given at the same
place and time as advertised.

UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OF CUTTING,
BY " SARTOR."

In the description of the author's plan for pro*
ducing the "Inverness Cape," which we published
last month, we omitted to state the proportions re-
quired for determining the positions of some of the
points to form the shape of the scye. We take this
opportunity of rectifying the oversight. The point
O, diagram 9, plate 1432, is obtained at half an
inch more than one-third of the breast from B, on
the line B J ; and the point P, at half an inch less
than half the breast from D, on the line D K.
Although our readers may have been able to shape
the scye of the Inverness, with a sleeve sewn in.

without these two quantities as a guide, they are of
great importance in determining the correct form.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.

Plates 1436 and 1437.

Diagrams 2, 3, 4, 6, and 7, are the pattern of a
style of Over-coat recently introduced, and known ns
the " Ulster " coat It is cut in the form of a loose
" sac," but very long, so as to reach nearly to the
ankle. It is double-breasted, with a stand-up collar,
and a tab to fasten across the opening between the
two ends of the collar. The coat is fastened at the
waist by a broad band (diagram 7), with a hole and
two buttons.

Diagrams 1, 8, 9, 10, and 11, are the pattern of
another novelty introduced in Paris and at Dresden
— an Over- coat in the form of a Chesterfield, with a
small cape.

It is many years since capes were fashionable as
an adjunct to an Over-coat. They were then worn
on single-breasted fitting great-coats, and gave a very
smart appearance to the style; in connexion with an
Over-coat in the Chesterfield form, it has quite a
different character.

We had hoped to have been able to give an illus-
tration of this style of coat with the present number,
but we were not in possession of the particulars in
the time necessary for the preparation of the draw-
ings, and the transferring to the stone; we shall con-
sequently issue it with the February number.

Diagrams 5, 12, 13, 14, and 15, are the patterns
of a new style of morning-coat which is coming
gradually into fashion, and will be found illustrated
on the first figure on one of our present plates. Our
artist has, however, scarcely done justice to the
character of this form of coat, by not representing
the angle of the forepart and skirt sufiiciently sharp.
It is this particular feature which gives an especial
style to the coat, and distinguishes it from any other
hitherto worn. The pattern fortunately remedies
this little error, and our readers will, therefore, have
the opportunity of studying the exact form the coat
would have.

?rs

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.hw.,y/''_ 3&,%£T'n,'!>7 TM'MilDm — 1870.

i;dward minister and son

London

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Kiru lap LrnvtartC

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON

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January P.* 1870. GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1456.

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DicL 7.

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January PM870. GAZETTE OF FASHION

PlaleI457.

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GAZETTE OF FASHION,

AXD

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWABD MINISTER AND SON,

No.8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

Fedruart 1, 1870.

PHILANTHROPIC SOCIETY OF MASTER

TAILORS OP PARIS.

Special Address to tiie Meuders.

Gektleuek,

Bjr tlie estAblishroent of an exhibition of competi-
tire professional akill, we liuve added a ncv and
useful fMtnre to furtber illtutrata the benefits of our
Society.

By awarding to merit honourable diatjnctions
accompanied by pecuniary rewards of some im-
portance, we have engendered a spirit of honourable
emulation among the workmea of our speciid branch
of the industrial arte.

As every one may bave convinced himself of the
fact, the exhibition of 1869 woa distinguished by an
evident progress on that of the preceding year. You
have been wilaesses to a circumstance, characterized
both by its singularity as by tlie difficulty of per-
formance, in the fact of the highest prize being
carried off tiro years coiuccatively by tb« same

workman, in spite of other competitors dislinguisbed
by their great skill.

When such examples occur ia competitions of the
higher arts, the talented individuals ore not classed
with the ordinary competitors, but treated exception-
ally, so as not to discourage others who, while striving
to follow in the footsteps of such distinguished rivals,
could not hope to reach so high a standard.

In an analogous case which precentud itself at our
competition, it appeared to me, at first, that under
such circumstances our line of conduct was clearly
traced out for us, and that the best course to take
was to be guided by an admitted custom. On
mature reflection, however, of the subject, I came to
the conclusion that it was infinitely preferable to
keep the workmen who hod distinguished themselves,
in constant exercise of their talent, by still giving
them the op|>ortunity of competing, but at the same
time establishing in their favour an exceptional dis-
tinction, in order not to prej udice the positions of those
endeavouring to keep pace with the march of progress.

^SSf*^f*-

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GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[February 1, 1870.

By furnishing these high-class capacities with a
means of increasing their importance bj the deve-
lopment of their talent to the utmost, we should find,
in the constant application of their skill in the
endeavour to maintain their superioritj, a powerful
preservative from several causes of premature deca-
dencC) and, at the same time, these workmen, thus
distinguished, would become worthy models for
others to emulate.

For the preceding reasons, I beg to propose to the
Philanthropic Society the addition to our competition
of an indispensable corollary, which in my opinion
consists in granting a superior prize to the work-
people of both sexes, who, after having twioe carried
off the highest prize in their respective classes, keep
their position in the first ranks at the succeeding
trials.

This prize should consist of a medal in gold of the
value of one hundred francs (£4) for the first class,
and so on in proportion for the four others, with the
understanding that the pecuniary reward attached to
the first prizes should not be forfeited by the excep-
tional prize.

This method of proceeding will have a double
advantage — that of always justifying the prizes
awarded, and preventing the Society from operating
on unknown ground. Besides, by this new stimulant
we shall increase the number of skilled workmen,
among whom will be found excellent teachers for the
young apprentices, who are at the present time the
object of our anxious thoughts.

Gentlemen, before proposing this addition to our
professional institution, I feel it requisite to make
myself acquainted with the financial obligation which
it might impose on the Society, and to assure myself
that it would not interfere with the relief we affbard
to the necessitous workmen.

In order to resolve these serious questions, I had
to make a careful examination into the condition of
our Society, and I have convinced myself that its
increasing prosperity, and the fiounshing state of its
finances, will easily bear the new charges which
may result from the development given to our
institution.

By this supplemental act we shall have added to
our work of emulation, a powerful incentive, which

is calculated to exercise a happy influence on the
minds of our able workmen, without imposing on us
the necessity of restricting ourselves in the assistance
to be given to others not so fortunate, and who have
a claim on our boimty.

The purport of this communication has no other
object than to enlighten the members of the Philan-
thropic Society on the nature of the present propo-
sition, and afibrd those gentlemen who may be
disposed to discuss its merits when brought forward
before them, an opportunity for making themselves
acquainted with the plan submitted for their deli-
beration.

Janssns, Sen.

We have much pleasure in giving publicity to
the scheme so kindly mooted by Monsieur Jansens,
and wish him every success in carrying it out.
There can be but little doubt that a proposition
emanating from a gentleman who holds so prominent
a position in the Society, and who has long been
esteemed for his philanthropy and devotion to all
matters connected with the trade, or with the welfare
of the journeymen, will be supported by that weight
of argument and experience which will ensure its
cordial reception by the members, and receive their
approval for its adoption.

It is unquestionably of the utmost importance not
only to foster excellence in a mechanic, but, when
once developed, to maintain it, both fbr the benefit
of the individual himself as for the example on
others; otherwise, once a journeyman, by dint of per-
severance, had arrived at the summit of his ambition
in the skill displayed by him in his respective call-
ing, it might give place to a carelessness in his ex-
ertions, and eventually lead to an actual fidling ofiT
in his abilities.

The plan proposed by M. Jansens would appear
to bear especially upon this possibility, and in our
opinion would tend to prevent, in a great measure,
the probability of it occurring. A high position, we
all know, once obtained, is easily hdd, as the very
degree of excellence which placed the fortunate indi-
vidual in posseraion of it, would enable him to keep
it by the mere exercise of that skill which won for
him the distinction, and the task would be lessened

^9^^^

^^^

Febbuabt 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

in difficulty hj the prestige he would have in bia
&vour while performing it. Therefore, howerer
great the merit which might exist in other competi-
tors, they would still have their laurels to win, and
suffer for a time a certain amount of suspense imtil
placed on the same fiivourable footing. Becoming,
then, a mark of observation to his fellow-workmen,
his very esprit de corps would ensure a continuance
of his exertions to be worthy of the esteem in which
he is held.

Cfir Cclrcttc Mryojttttotj!*

''A gailierer Mid ditpoMr of other men's ttnit**— Wotkm,

LECTURE ON TROUSER-CUTTING.

Bt Mb. Cocks,
systems and writers.

A public lecture on cutting is a novelty in these
days, although some years back, when Mr. Oliver,
of New York, paid this city a professional visit, we
were more &miliar with them, as that gentleman had
much to commimicate to the trade, both novel and
startling.

Many teachers of cutting would hesitate to con-
vene a meeting to propound their views and systems^
as the trade has scarcely recovered from the plethora
of methods which were showered upon them for a
time. As the lecturer who addressed, if not a large
meeting, at all events a highly respectable body of
masters and ibremen, on the 17 th ult, at the Caven-
dish Rooms, was neither a teacher of cutting nor
a prominent controversialist on such matters, but
simply a master-tailor naturally devoted to the de-
velopment of the science of the trade, he was inde-
pendent in his actions, and disinterested as to any
desire of inculcating his opinions on his audience.

Mr. Cocks has for years directed much time to the
science of his business, and appears to have made
trouser-cutting his particular study; and as his
views are somewhat opposed to the opinions enter-
tained by a portion of the trade, he was anxious for
an opportunity to explain the basis of his plan, and
illustrate the theory on which his practice has been
founded.

As we have remarked, the audience upon this

occasion, if not so numerous as the lecturer could

perhaps have de»red, was sufficiently so to prove
that the subject possessed an interest to many of the
heads of respectable firms and their principal cutters,
who, sincerely devoted to the progress of our art,
were willing to be enlightened on a question which,
although it has long occupied the attention of the
trade, is still open to discussion.

The object of Mr. Cocks was principally to con-
vince the trade of the superiority of what is known
in the trade as a " straight " cut trouser, over the
open or "crooifcai'' style; and to render his lecture
more interesting, and establish the correctness of his
theory in a satisfactory manner, he illustrated the
merits of one plan, and the faults of the other,
by several patterns of trousers cut on the two prin-
ciples. He completely succeeded in convincing the
company, which necessarily was composed of men
who came prepared to criticize the plan to be sub-
mitted to them, which might clash with long cherished
views of their own. Mr. Cocks did not want any-
thing accepted on his mere dictum^ but wished his
hearers to judge for themselves, from the specimens
produced for their examination, whether his principle
were sound, and if the straight trousers had an ad-
vantage over the crooked cut.

There was not a dissentient voice, nor a remark
advanced in support of the crooJted cut.

Much amusement was afforded by the introduc-
tion of a full-length photograph of the popular
dramatic author and artistSj Mr. Byron, representing
him personifying one of the characters in his farce
" Not Such a Fool as He Looks." It would appear
that Mr. Byron rather prides himself on his dress,
and his trousers are evidently the production of
an artiste equally clever in his line. As we are not
aware of the name of the successful operator, we
shall not be suspected of trumpeting his fame, but
may be permitted to compliment him on his achieve-
ment in this particular instance. The introduction
of this photograph, representing a perfectly well-cut
trouser — whether straight or croohed we are not
aware — ^told well, coupled with a remark made by
the artiste in question, that the first time he remem-
bers feeling a sensation " was on the death of his
tailor," who was celebrated for his trousers.

A pair of breeches gave great satisfaction to the

■e.6^

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[Fbbri^abt 1, 1870

Syst^n " by <' Sartor/' I remarked to the principal
of our house, " Why, here is my system brought out
by another man."

If there be any merit in the pUm, '^ Sartcr " is
fully entitled to reap all the honour which his
courage in bringing it out before the trade deserves;
and which quality I frankly admit I did not possess.
Your correspondent will, I trust, afler this explanation,
absolve me from a desire to cast any reflection upcm
his statement, as from what you have said, and from
his own remiu:ks, I do not for one moment believe
now that he had ever seen my plan. The coincidence
struck me at once, and on the spur of the moment I
wroto you the letter claiming the merits of the plan.

Apologizing for intruding on your valuable space,

I remain.

Yours very truly,
" F. P. M."

We now publish the reply from the writer of the
letter we received relative to a charge of piracy
brought against our correspondent, " Sartor," and
which that gentleman noticed in a letter which ap-
peared in the October number of our work last year.
We then expressed our conviction that we had not
been imposed upon by our correspondent foisting a
plan of cutting, invented by some other person, as
the offspring of his own brain ; and the explanation
we now publish proves the correctness of our judg-
ment, and that we did our contributor but the justice
he deserved at our hands.

It would have been desirable if " F. P. M." had
entered a little more fully upon the subject in dis-
pute, and have statod, as we suggested, whether the
plan for disproportion, as well as all the different
points in " Sartor*s " system, corresponded with that
by which he has been cutting, as it is just possible for
certain points of two or more systems to be similar,
while others may vary to a great extent, and com-
pletely alter the character of the plan. As it is, we
have only to rest satisfied with the vindication of
ourselves and of our correspondent to our readers.

»<%«*«««««■««« •^<V«*«««i«W*i«*«A«M«M«>^'»

THE WOOL TRADE OF 1869.

As, notwithstanding the statements we hear from
Ume to time of the various substitutes employed in

the manu&cture of clolihs, there still exists a belief
that, in certain qualities of this article, wool still
forms a component part, a review of the transactionB
in this commodity during the past year mnst possess
an interest for our readers, in furnishing them with
the opportunity of forming an estimate of tiie prices
which may prevail during the present jrear, influenced
by the stocks on hand, by the anticipated arrivals
frt)m abroad, or by the supply of the next clip.

By the courtesy of Messrs. Ronald and Sons, of
Liverpool, who, with their usual consideration, hove
favoured us with a copy of their annual report, we
can glance over the transactions which took place
during eleven months of &e past year.

For the prospects of holders, the report b^^s
un&vourably, by drawing a comparison between the
moderate anticipations for the fUture and the actual
facts, as we are informed ''that die most striking
feature connected with the state of ^ade in genoal,
during the year, was, how very little the moderate
anticipations indulged in a twelvemonth ago, with
regard to the resumption of confidence, have been
realized." Taking into consideration the absence of
any political events, a moderate harvest, with con-
siderable importation of breadstufls from abroad, and
the fact that money could be had at very moderate
rates, there is no satisfactory conclusion to arrive at
to account for the hopes of the improvement in the
wool trade being carried out, '' unless we accept the
financial convulsion of I860 as the remote but still
existing cause." ''The special influence exercised
upon our great staple, wool, has manifested itself in
the entire absence of speculative transactions ; con-
sumers as well as dealers having hardly ever ex>»
tended their purchases beyond actual requirements,
so checking any material improvement in prices, if
not rather conducing to their reduction."

According to the returns from the Board of Trade,
it appears, during the eleven months ending in Vo^
v^oiber last, there was an increase in the Imports of
about ten and a half millions of pounds, compared
with the corresponding period in the previous year,
and which was composed of three and a half millions
from Australia and the Gape, three millions fhnn t^e
East Indies, two and a half from sundry other places
abroad, and one and a half of alpaca.

^^b^

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Febbuart 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

The ExporU during the aune period exhibit a
hu^ increase over 1868, amounting to nearly fcm^
lasn milUons of pounds more. Of this ezoeas ^ve
millions and a half of eohnial wool were sent to
France, Belgium, and Germany, our principal rivals
in the manufacture of woollen goods ; while only one
miUion and a half was exported to other countries.
The United States took two millions of foreign wool,
and other countries one and a half; while three mil-
lions of dcMitdstic wools were sent to the United States,
and only half a million to other countries. The
quantity retained for home consumption in 1869 was
ksa by three and a half millions. of pounds than in
1868.

In the declared value of woollen yams and goods
exported during eleven months of last year, we have
an increase of 10 per cent., or, taking into oonsidera'
tion the reduction in price of all woollen manufiio-
tores, we may put it down at 15 per cent, being
£26,544,638 against £23,908,827.

The arrivals of Australasian and Cape wools were
remarkable; the former by the excess over those in
1868, the latter by the decrease comparatively.
The figures are 537,977 bales against 514,139 of
Australasian wool, and 140,962 against 142,132 of
Gape wools.

Prices underwent a considerable reduction at the
£nt two series of the regular sales during the year,
hat recovered to some extent during the third;
further advanced at the opening of the last one; but
gradoally settled down to the third, which took place
in September. '< They must now be considered, on
the average, about on a par with last year's rates at
thia time." We notice an important remark with
regard to the quantity exported. "The quantity
taken for export is estimated to be about 287,500
balesy which will give some idea, not only of the
influence of foreign competition at these sales, but
aHeo of the rapid etrides manufadurera are making on
the Ckmtinent; and the question naturally arises —
' To what extent do they compete with us in foreign
markets?'"

We are threatened with a short supply from the
Colonies, owing to the unremunerative resvlte of wool

rekipments for some time past. Unless the rate of con-
sumption now going on, be interfered with by any un-

foreseen events, the prices of fine wools, which form
the great bulk of our trade, will steadily, though
perhaps but slowly, tend upwards.

Although the arrivals of wool from Portugal and
the Spanish frontier have been in much larger quan-
tities than during the last two years, owing to the
dulness of the domestic wools, they have not been in
active demand, and have given way in price. They
may be quoted at from Jd. to Id. per lb. lower than
in December, 1868.

Alpaca has been imported in a much larger
quantity during the year than in 1868, but did not
exceed the average of preceding years. Its value
was depreciated by mohair being more in requisition.
A twelvemonth ago its price was quoted at 3s.
per lb. ; during the year it could have been had for
as low as 2s. djd., and varied to 2s. 7d.

The price of Domestic Wool may be taken at fully
Id. per lb. below the range at the close of 1868.

Mohair, which in the last report was quoted as
advancing from 2s. 5d. per lb. to 3s. 7d., fetched as
high as 3s. lid.; while, at the latest sales^it realized
from 3s. 9id. to 3s. lOd., a range of prices almost un-
precedented, and entirely owing to the change in
feshion referred to with regard to alpaca.

By a reference to the table we published in the
February number of our work, last year, and com-
paring the prices we then quoted, our readers will
see the fiuctuations which have taken place in the
value of the several descriptions of wool from foreign

countries : —

Per lb. Per lb.

Is. Id. to 2s. 4(/.

New South Wales •

Port Phillip 10

Van Dieman*s Land. ..09

Swan Kiver 11

South Australian ... 1 3

NewZeahmd 12

Cape of Good Hope . • . 1 1

Qerman • . . • . . Oil

Portugal Oil

Spanish •
Canadian
Peruvian

Bussian

Alpaca

1
1

2
1

6
3
8

>»

»»

2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1

4
5

6
10

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GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

[Febbuart 1, 1870.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.
Plates 1441 and 1442.

Diagrams 1, 2, 5, 11, 12, and 13, are the patterns
of a little boy*8 suit, witli short loose trousers in the
place of " Knickerbockers."

Diagrams 3, 4, and 6, are the pattern of a novel
and stylish form of lady*s jacket, which we extract
from the work published by our contemporaries,
Herren Miiller and Co., of Dresden. A " banyan "
plait is formed at the centre of the back-skirt, and
the seam of the skirt attached to the side-body is
plain. The two V's taken out of the forepart under
the bosom reduce the jacket to the desired size at
the small of the waist, while giving a roundness to
the upper part of the body to suit the figure. Alto-
gether the style of jacket is remarkable for the
smartness of its character and for the novelty of the
arrangement If produced to the full size by the
ordinary measure, the pattern would correspond for
18 inches breast, as the quantities are arranged for
the Graduated Measures.

Diagrams 7, 0, and 10, are the pattern of a stylish
form of lounge -jacket, or for out-of-doors wear,
which would be very effective trimmed with fur.

Diagram 8 illustrates the plan of alteration for
high or low necked figures, suggested by our corre-
spondent, " Sartor."

.«»«.W»a«w»««*i»Mi«*

NEW STYLE OF OVER-COAT WITH CAPE.

On one of the plates issued with our present
number, we illustrate the style of Over-coat of which
we published a pattern last month. It is the adop-
tion of a small cape on to the Chesterfield form of
Over-coat By a singular coincidence, it made its
appearance simultaneously in Paris and at Dresden.
Our readers will have the opportunity of judging of
its merits from our representation. Our artist has,
however, somewhat marred the effect of the back
view, by reducing the compass of the skirt on the
bottom-edge at each side, as also in making the coat
generally too close to the body.

The first figure on another plate represents the
style of lounge-jacket of which we give a pattern,

and have added fur as a trimming on the edges, for
effect.

On the other figure, is shown an Over-coat, in the
Chesterfield form, single-breasted, with the holes
worked in a fly at front It is cut moderately loose
to the body, and without a back-seam. The edges
are stitched.

Children's dress is often the source of some anxiety
to tailors. We come to their assistance, with two
illustrations of different styles, both becoming for the
ages of the boys as represented, and equally effective.

The elder of the two figures has on a short round
jacket, double-breasted, with a broad lapel cut on,
and three holes worked in it. The back is moderate
in width at the bottom, but broad across to the scye,
and the side-seam well curved. The collar is low in
the stand and broader in the fall, with the end well
sloped offl The turn to the front of the forepart is
long and bold, and fiiced with striped or piain silk.

The sleeve is easy, and finished » with a medium
cuff' with two holes and buttons. * Edges turned in
and stitched, or finished with a three-eighths silk
braid sewn on flat The bottom of the back is cut
with a small point No seam at the centre of the
back. Double-breasted waistcoat, without a collar.

The dress on the little boy is very stylish and
elegant It consists of a fiemciful little jacket, cut to
reach a little below the hollow of the waist, with a
bold lapel cut on to the front-edge of the forepart, and
made to turn back on to the breast There is no
collar. There is a loop at the bottom of the turn,
with a buttoji on to each forepart, to retain the jacket
in its place. The sleeve is full downwards, and short,
and is opened some distance up from the bottoni AX
the hind-arm-seam. A small epauUUe is added to
the top of the sleeve. The front of the jacket, th^
epaulettes, pocket welts, and edges of the openings to
the sleeves, are of velvet. On these are figured twist
ball buttons, with a ring of tracing-braid to enclose
each of these on the edges of the front and sleeves
only.

The waistcoat is single-breasted, opening very low,
with two or three buttons and holes, and without a
collar.

The trousers are loose and short, with a fancy
border down the side-seams.

EDWARD MINISTKR AND SON
^ London ,

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON

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r.DWARI) MINISTKR AND SOM
I.ondon ,

Fel)ruaTj,l»*1820

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1441

E.C. Minister

Fekuarv,l'M870

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Pkle 1442

'02 5

6 o

DulJS

IM Michekt, 6,ihH3i£ri Funs.

S3SgSgES35&»-

GAZETTE OF FASHION,

AHli

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWAED MINISTER AND SON,

No.8, ARGYLL PLACE. REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

A GLANCE AT FOREIGN SYSTEMS
OP CUTTING.

There is no doubt but that the majority of tailors
on the Conduent cut by " admeasurement " systems,
which are more or leas complicated in their working,
according to the number of measures which are
essentia] to their beiag properly carried out.

As " lime is money," it follows, as a rule, that
simplicity in a method of cutting must necessarily be
an economy, if combined with security. The value
of any plan can only be tested by comparing it with
others, whether based on the same or oa a different
principle; and this maxim equally applies to systems
of cutting as to other inrentions.

The receipt of a recent number of a magazine of
fashion, published by one of our contemporaries in
Paris, M. Lad^gze, furnishes ns with an opportunity
of illustrating our remarks, as it contains his system
for cutting coats. This method may be fairly ac-
cepted by our makers as an example of the systems

in general use abroad, and as such offers a favour-
able opportunity for judging of its utility, and of its
adaptability by English trades.

Our readers are probably aware that the system
of trying on is practised by tailors on the Continent
to a much greater extent than in this country, and
that the cost of basting up and subsequent alterations
form a regular item in the wages for making a gar-
ment. Whether from the want of judgment on the
part of the cutter, or from a long-practised habit, it
is a question whether a customer would be satisfied
unless this plan were followed.

One great evil arising from this practice is the
want of confidence it engenders in the cutter, as,
knowing the opportunity be will have of making any
alterations which may suggest themselves when he
tries the garment on the customer, he is less careful
in producing the original shape, and does not tax his
judgment so fully in the first instance, as if he had
not the facility of altering or of remedying any
defects which might be discovered when trying o

SSSftea*-

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GAZETTE OF FASHION.

■eO^

[IVIabch 1, 1870.

This practice distinctly marks the difference be-
tween the system adopted abroad and in this country,
and tells unfavourably, at first, in the instance of any
of our cutters entering a foreign house.

"With this introduction, our readers will be pre-
pared for a more complicated plan of cutting than
they themselves, probably, practise; but this will be
so of a necessity, since the measures serve as a basis
to determine the form of the garment, as is the case
in all '' admeasurement *' systems.

M. Lad^v^ze commences by stating that the prin-
cipal measures of the anatomy of the human body
are those indicated by Nos. 1 to 11 in the following
list; and that the measures illustrated on diagram 1,
are sufficient for an ordinary made man, for a very
erect figure, or for a stooping figure.

"We reduce the centimetres to inches and their firac-
tions, for the convenience of those who are not con-
versant with the system of the metre and its divisional
parts.

We are at a loss to understand the purport of the
several numbers at the heading of the following
table, but give them as we find them placed in the
original.

The different measures are arranged in the order
recommended by the inventor of the system. The
quantities in the two columns indicate the propor-
tions they should bear to each of the two sizes of
breast-measure given at the head of each — viz., 48
centimetres J or 19 inches within a firaction, that being
accepted as the standard abroad; and 45 centimetreSy
or 17 j inches. The several lengths are taken from
the top of the spine.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Breast-measure ..•••• 19 17|

1 Depth of scye, line C . . . . 12J llf

2 Length to the top of the hip, line D. 21| 20|

3 From the hip to the ground. . • 42^ 41|
3AFrom the ground to the top of the

hips, on D 42^411

4 Starting firom this point to the nape

of the neck 174 16|

This measure shows if the cnstomer
be upright, or more thaA usually
erect (an incorrect term, but gene-
rally understood in the trade).

254

H
Hi

line E. Three-quarters of an
inch must be added to this quan-
tity to allow for liberty of move-
ment.

5 Length of waist, line F . . . . 19f

6 Full length of skirt 35 J

7 Starting from the nape of the neck

to the hollow on D and A • • 26f

8 From the nape of the neck to the

bottom of the back-scye, on the
lineG 10

9 From the middle of the back to the

front of the scye, on the line K . 12^

10 Still holding the measure in the

hand, and carrying it up to the
neck-point of the shoulder-seam,
on the line N 19f

11 "Width of back, line G . . . . 7|

12 Length in continuation to the elbow. 21^

13 Carried on to full length of sleeve • 33

14 "Width at the top of the sleeve . . 8g

15 "Width of sleeve at the elbow . . 7

16 "Width at the hand 6^

17 Breast-measure, line L . • • .19

18 "Waist-measure, line L . . . .17

19 Circumference of the neck, from B

onN 9

The ^ve previous quantities are
halves of the measures taken.
Proportions of the Breast-Measures.
A third of the breast • . • • 64
A sixth of the breast . • • • 3^
A fourth of the breast . . • • 4|
An eighth of the breast. . • • 2|
A twelfth of the breast .... If
Half the breast-measure . • • 9|
"Without being mathematically correct, the quan-
tities we have given will be found sufficiently near
for any purpose we may require^

To drafl by the above meaaoies a ooat^ as shown
by the diagram, which may serve fi^r a dress-coat, a
firock-coat, a morning-coat, or any other style of coat
for a man measuring from 19 to 17f breast and
17 waist, we b^n by drawing with a square the
lines A and B.

Our explanation equally applies to all sizes ; tlie

18^

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214
33

64
17|

15}
8f

6
3

■€^5^

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:jt

March 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

esBential thing is properly to understand the sereral

From the angle formed by theee two square lines,
mark on the line B, three^eighths of an inch less than
a sixth of the breast, for the width of the top of the
back. This proportion will apply for sizes from 17f
to 20 breast; but for larger aises, such as 21 to 25,
then it will be advisable to make the width about
fire-eighths less than the sixth. For small sizes —
firom 12 to 16| breast — a quarter of an inch will be
sufficient. By this plan, the width of the top of the
back will always be proportionate to the size of the
breast.

Betuming to the angle formed by these two lines,
A and B, mark on the line A, at C, the depth of
scye, and, without leaving go of the tape, mark the
length to the top of the hip by passing the measure
firom the nape of the neck and in front of the scye to
the hollow at top of the hip-bone, at which place the
position of the point D is determined.

From it, proceeding towards the line A, place the
fourth measure, which also is carried to the nape of
the neck, and mark the quantity stated io the table,
adding three-quarters of an inch for ease in wear.
At this point mark the line £, which regulates the
height of the top of the back, and shows if the
customer be proportionate in make, stooping, or more
than erect.*

The line £ might even be drawn above the line
B, when drafting a stooping figure, as its position
would be governed entirely by the measure taken on
the body from one point to another.

It is essential, in producing the forepart by my
instructions, to be very particular in placing the
several lines A, B, C, D, £, and F, in their proper
poaitdons. It is the only real plan for easily drafting
the shape, when the pupil feels inclined to devote
the necessary time for studying them. Starting fix)m
the line A, and following the line B, mark the width
of back according to the quantity in the table, and
draw the line G at this distance parallel with the

* We may, perhi^, here remark, for the benefit of our
readers, that by the term, '*nape of neck," is evidently
meant the side of the neck, and not the top of the spine,
from which point the different lengths are usually taken in
this coimtry.— Ed. Gaz. ov Fash.

line A. Then apply the eighth measure, which is
taken from the top of the lines A and £, and inter-
sect the line K by the measure taken fix>m the top
of the back-seam to the bottom of the back-aoye.
From this point draw the- line H, touching the line
A at the length of the waist, and form an angle there
with the line F, drawn square with A. The line H
should be divided into three parts, in order to fiicili-
tate the formation of the curved line I, which repre-
sents the side-seam of the back.

To form the side-seam by this line, make the
width of back at bottom, 1| inch; then let the
curved line intersect the line H at the point shown
on the diagram, hollow it about three-quarters of an
inch opposite the line C, and carry it up to the line
6, where the top of the side-seam of the forepart
and the bottom of the back-scye are determined.

Make the width of the back-scye firom 1|^ to IJ
inch, and draw the line J for the shoulder-seam,
carrying it about three-quarters of an inch beyond
the line £, and to the point marked for the width at
top of back.

Starting from the line A, mark on the line C, the
distance to the front of scye fix)m a measure taken
firom the back-seam, which in our table is given as
124 inches, less three-eighths of an inch, and which
alteration applies to all sizes. Then draw the line K,
parallel with A, from the line B downwards to the
UneF.

Measure across firom A to M the width of breast,
adding a sixth for seams and fulness of the chest,
and draw the line M parallel with A.

Should the coat be wanted to fit more closely to
the figure, an eighth may be allowed beyond the
measure instead of a sixth.

From these directions the outline of a forepart
may be formed to any size according to the several
measures.

Mark on the two lines 6 and M, one-sixth of the
breast from the line B, and draw the line N from A,
intersecting both of these points.

This line N serves to determine the position of the
scye-point of the shoulder-seam, and of the bottom
of the neck ; bearing in mind, at the same time, that
the shape of the shoulder-seam will depend on the
formation of the figure, and may have to be raised

-«€^

^^b^

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^€^es;s@

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[March 1, 1870.

or lowered at this point, according as the person
may be high or low shouldered.

The shoulder-seam of the forepart is formed by
measuring the length of the shoulder-seam of the
back — marking a Y in the middle, and letting one
end intersect the line B, and the other on the line N,
so that the centre of the seam falls in a line with the
line K, which determines the position of the front of
the scye. Form the shoulder-seam as represented
by the curved line O.

Mark the neck by the measure taken on the body,
allowing for the width of the top of the back, hol-
lowing it for about three-quarters of an inch at P.

The scye shown by the line Q is formed from the
junction of the lines N and 0, passing twice through
the line K, lowering it a little from the line C, and
carrying it up to the bottom of the back-scye and
top of the side-seam of the forepart.

From this point (bottom of the back-scye) form
the side-seam R, carrying it through the lines D and
F, about IJ or 1^ inch in from the side-seam of
the back. This line must not, however, be formed
until after the application of the seventh measure,
which is taken from the nape of the neck to the hol-
low of the waist in from the back-seam. This mea-
sure indicates eicactly the quantity to be taken out
between the two side-seams. It may vary from 1^
inch to 3 inches, according as the figure may be more
or less hollow.

Determine the width of the side-body, placing the
top of the seam on the line C, under the bottom of
the scye, and consequently in a line with the centre
of the hip. Draw the line S, for the bottom of the
side-body, from the bottom of the side-seam of the
forepart, carrying it up between the lines D and F,
and continue it to the line M, about three-quarters of
an inch below the line F.

Then form the line T, starting from the line N, at
the end of the neck, passing through the lines C and
M, and touching the lines D and F, at about three-
quarters of an inch behind M.

We may remark that the bottom of the line T —
the front-edge of the forepart — may be three-quarters
or an inch and a half in advance of the line M, when
the waist is as large as the breast; as, of course, it
wiU be perfectly clear that its position will be regu-

lated by the size of the waist, as well as by the dis-
proportion in make in cases of stooping figures.

Having completed the outline of the forepart ac-
cording to the measures, it will be easy to add the
lapel according to the shape of the turn desired,
whether single or double-breasted. Every tailor
ought to possess that which can never be learned —
a larger or smaller amount of good taste.

{To he continued.)

.««»«M»««mW«««A*«««M<M

»«».»»».»»>■»

ESSAYS AND LECTURES ON
CUTTING BY MEMBERS OF FOREMEN-
TAILORS' SOCIETIES.

In addition to the ordinary advantages which these
societies offer to foremen, a new and valuable feature
has recently been introduced into some, which cannot
fail to exercise an influence on the trade generally.
We allude to the selection of some particular gar-
ment, a principle of cutting, or the peculiar require-
ments of certain figures, by some of the members, as
a subject or a basis either for a lecture or for public
discussion.

The interchange of ideas and the expression of the
various opinions which may be entertained on the
different theories or plans, are calculated to lead to a
more correct conception of many of the evils of whose
existence we are well aware, but not so prepared to
suggest a remedy as we might hope to be from a
closer study of the causes and effects.

We consider that an investigation of the science
and practice of our trade would materially improve
the mind of a cutter, and establish a confidence in
him, which would both benefit him individually, and,
by developing his abilities, be also beneficial to those
for whom his talent would be called into requisition.

A higher estimate of the importance of our branch
of the industrial arts, justified by its keeping pace
with the general improvement everywhere observed
in manufactures and science, must necessarily en-
gender a better feeling of self-respect among its
members, and, at the same time, create a spirit of
emulation in the trade, which would draw out much
of the latent talent of its members, and still further

p o

PC^

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^^^6SSSS^^^^

^^^^m

Mabch 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

develop the abilities of those who abready hold a high
position in it.

It has often been remarked that, when an amateur
professor imdertakes to instruct others in any parti-
cular subject, the preparation necessary in order to
enable him to acquit himself with credit personally,
and to the advantage of his extemporized pupils, is
productive of a decided benefit to himself, by the
amount of study involved.

In our opinion, these opportunities for discussing
maUers immediately connected with the science of
our business, would lead to a great practical result,
as the particular views held by men qualified by
their position and experience to express their ideas,
with a conviction of their statements carrying with
them the weight which should impress others of
their correctness, must exercise an influence on the
minds of those who are less able to judge of such
matters for themselves.

Oa the other hand, an imperfect idea either of
cause or efiect, when submitted to the judgment of a
body, would, on being investigated as to its sound-
nessy be examined in all its bearings, and its fallacy
be clearly exposed.

We consider that the mind would be decidedly
improved by such inquiries, as we are most of us
either too careless or too indififerent as to the real
importance of many matters which we constantly
meet with in our business.

In a prospectus before us of the dififerent subjects
to be discussed by the members of one of the Metro-
politan Foremen-Tailors* Societies, we notice the
following: —

On Close-fitting Trousers.

On Various Styles of Coats.

On Waistcoats.

On Frock-coats.

On Trousers.

On the Best Forms of Arm-holes.

On Trousers for Short Figures.

On Over-coats.

On Ladies' Jackets and Over-coats.

From the above list it will be seen that the sub-
jects are diversified, and present ample scope for the
expression of conflicting opinions.

Some of the members are, by the situations they

hold in more constant practice as regards certain
garments; it is, therefore, but natural that any ideas
communicated by them should hdve a proportionate
weight with their fellow-members; but, at the same
time, from habit, they may possibly entertain
opinions which will not bear being analyzed. And
it might even happen that, on an error being pointed
out, and on their feeling convinced of their mistake
up to that time, they would be grateful for the light
thrown upon them by the discussion which their
erroneous view led to.

We are none of us so perfect but that we have
something to learn and add to our stock of know-
ledge; and we cannot be too much obliged to those
who take the pains to enlighten us, and give us the
benefit of their experience.

There are many subjects which could be profitably
discussed by the trade generally, without either
necessarily leading to any rivalry, or for the know-
ledge to be prejudicial to particular interests. If
other trades can hold periodical meetings to discuss
matters connected with their branch of commerce,
surely ours does not offer such insuperable obstacles
to the cultivation of a good understanding among its
members, as to render friendly communication be-
tween tailors an impossibility, or an impracticability.
We would hope that the minds of the members of
our craft are neither more illiberal nor more narrow
in their views than those of other tradesmen, and
that what is practicable to them may be equally
open to our community.

ROYAL CALABAR CLOTH.

Under the above somewhat high-sounding title, a
new make of cloth has been introduced to the trade,
by our enterprising agent for Scotland, Mr. Francis
Gibson, which is to supply a want long recoguized
by tailors when taking the different measures for
a coat.

There can be no doubt but that it frequently
occurs in practice that, either from the coat not
fitting properly, or from the fact of it being wadded
to a greater extent than usual, the measures when
taken do not convey an accurate idea of the real

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GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

[March 1, 1870.

make of the particular customer as might be desired;
and, consequently, are not to be implicitly relied
upon, when cutting by systems which depend upon
the correctness of some of the measures as their
basis.

In " breast-measure *' systems this would not be
productive of much inconvenience ; for as the several
measures taken over the coat, and which are subse-
quently to be applied in producing the pattern of the
garment, merely serve to determine lengths, any slight
difference which could possibly be made through
either of the causes we have named, would not
affect the^ of the garment.

The material points which are foimd by propor-
tions of the breast-measure, and which measure is
taken on the body under the coat, would not be in-
fluenced by the additional quantity of wadding, or
by the badness of the fit in the coat when on.

In '^ admeasurement " systems the case is very
different, for on the accuracy in taking the several
measures, which of themselves, and relatively to each
other, are supposed to convey to the cutter a true
idea of the real formation of each figure, depends
entirely whether the coat shall be produced to the
correct shape, and the several points be placed in
their proper positions.

It can be easily xmderstood, then, how important
it must be to a cutter by this principle that the mea-
sures, whether taken by himself or by any one else
for him, should be taken with every care, so that,
when operating by them, he may feel a perfect con-
fidence in his judgment of each individual figure as
demonstrated by the several quantities in their rela-
tive bearing.

To obviate the possibility of this inacciu'acy and
its consequences has been the aim of Mr. Gibson,
and in the Royal Calabar Cloth he presents to the
admirers of the '' admeasurement " system of cutting
especially, a means of preventing the inconvenience
for the future.

The cloth is woven as a webbing, but only giving
in its length, and has the appearance of the article
employed for the side-springs of a boot.

The foreparts and backs of a coat, when cut out
of this cloth to a rather small size, will, when placed
on the body, form a perfect covering to the frame,

free from any wrinkles, and will expand to the mxe
required by the width of the figure ; presuming, of
course, that there be not too great a disparity be-
tween the size to which the foreparts and backs were
cut, and the figure on whom the coat is tried. The
person taking the various measures would thus have
a covering to the body, presenting so smooth a sur-
face as to of^ no difi&culty whatever in ascertaining
the several quantities essential for the cutter.

With this recommendation alone we can foresee
how useful the Calabar Cloth would be to many
trades, and what confusion it might prevent to the
foreman when depending on other persons* measuring.

It would be desirable to have, say, two or three
diflerent sizes made up in this article, so as to be
prepared for all cases which may come within the
practice of any trade of moderate importance.

THE REPORT OF FASfflON.

In the present forward state of the engraving of
the plate, which forms so important a feature in the
above work, we can confidently state, for the infor-
mation of oiu* numerous patrons and the trade gene-
rally, at home and abroad, that the '' Report*' for tlie
forthcoming Spring and Sununer will be ready fbr
delivery at the usual time of publishing — ^viz.,
towards the end of the present month.

We do not profess to issue this work before the
commencement of the months of April and October;
but, knowing the anxiety of the trade to have their
copies early, in order to prepare themselves with the
new styles, and equally desirous ourselves to put them
in possession — ^at the very earliest time consistently
— of the necessary information on matters of fiishion,
we generally arrange to anticipate those periods a
little. In some cases, however, when the engraver's
work is more elaborate than usual, and requires a
longer time for the proper execution of the details,
we are necessarily obliged to claim a slight indulgence
from our patrons. We advert to this matter, as
some persons run away with the idea that a work
like the " Report of Fashion " may be got ready for
publication to a fixed date, without making aoj
allowance for contingencies such as we have named.

^'e^

^^^

Makch 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OP FASfflON.

For the information of onr new readers, and others
not acquainted with the character of the " Report of
Fashion,'' we may state that it is a work purporting
to instruct the tailor in the metropolis, the country,
Ae colonies, and abroad, in all the mmtUue of the
prevailing fashion in dress, which are carefully
delineated.

It consists' of a large highly coloured and artisti-
cally executed copper-plate engraving, containing
TwENTT-THBEE figUTcs, illustrating the newest styles
of dress for gentlemen and boys.

A sheet of the patterns of the most prevailing
styles, reduced to scale, and so arranged as to be
available, by means of the principle of Graduation,
as carried out in practice by the Graduated Mea-
sures, for the various sizes to which the particular
style is suitable.

Two sheets of patterns, printed in full size for a
fixed size of breast, and a printed report fully describ-
ing the several patterns, the different styles of gar-
ments, the newest makes of patterns and goods for
each season, and giving copious information to the
tailor on all the details of fashion and making up.

The number of years this work has been before
the trade — now nearly Fifty — and the distinguished
patronage afforded to it by the leading trades in
town and in the country, as well as being accepted
by all the principal houses on the Continent as the
only faithful exponent of English fashion — which, at
the present time, exercises its influence everywhere
—justifies us in making known its properties and
importance to those members of our profession who
are not already acquainted with its character.

The subscription for the year, payable in advance,
is £1 Is., for which sum the two copies are for-
warded, POST FREE, to any part of the United Eling-
dom and the Channel Islands. For a small additional
charge — ^regulated by the "book-post" tariff — it
may be sent to any foreign country, with the excep-
tion of Spain.

Single copies, also post free, 12s. 6d. each, thus
giving a subscriber the advantage of 4s. in the two
issues published during the year.

Copies desired to be enclosed with goods from
town, should be advised early to prevent delay.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS IN

DIAGRAM.

Plates 1446 and 1447.

«*^M«««Mi«M««M«W««WH«AM

Diagram 1 illustrates the system of coats published
by M. Lad^v^ze, of Paris, and will be found described
in oiu* present number.

Diagrams 2, 3, 4, 5, and 7, are the pattern of
a single-breasted morning-coat to the prevailing
fashion.

Diagrams 6, 8, and 10, are the pattern of a novel
form of jacket — the " Ulster" jacket — which may be
converted to several purposes.

The idea is taken from the form known as the
" Norfolk " or " Sandringham " jacket, which con-
tinues to be deservedly in general favour, and from
the " Ulster " Over-coat.

The jacket is double-breasted, with a broad lapel
cut on, and fastening at front with four buttons and
holes. The back is wide as in a " sac " Over-coat.
A belt, of the same material as the jacket, is held in
its place by passing through two or more loops sewn
on the jacket, and is fastened at front by a button
and hole. A second button may be sewn on behind
the other, to allow of the jacket being fastened close
to the body, if required. There are two pockets on
each forepart, with deep fiaps over the openings.

Diagram 9 is the pattern of a loose skirt, which
may be worn with the " Ulster " jacket, and form an
Over-coat of it.

The perfection to which the different appliances
to ensure the comfort of travellers have recently
been carried, has made this study almost an art ; as
the object would appear to be, to realize the greatest
advantage with the least possible drawback in the
shape of encumbrance. The attention bestowed on
this has, perhaps, in a certain degree, tended to
stimulate the demand; as one naturally becomes a
little selfish after being humoured, and is apt to
crave for still fUrther indulgence. So the demand
creates the supply, and the brain is constantly kept
on the rack to invent fresh novelties.

The purport of this skirt is to afford any gentle-
man wearing the '^ Ulster ** jacket, the advantage of a
protection for the legs when riding, driving, or

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GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[March 1, 1870.

travelling in a railv^ay carriage, and at the same
time not encumber him with an unnecessary article
requiring his attention.

When not worn on the body, it may be used as a
rug, and for the convenience of portability may be
rolled up, and fastened by means of a travelling rug
strap.

If desirable to wear as a skirt when on, combined
with the jacket, it will give the appearance of an
" Ulster " Over-coat.

The two back-edges are sewn together with an
ordinary seam, or one lapped over the other, if the
seams in the jacket be made so, and an opening left
at the bottom, with a ketch and back-tacking and
three buttons and holes. At front there may be
two buttons and holes in each skirt, in continuation
with those on the foreparts. A series of loops are
sewn on to the top-edge of the skirt, so that the top
of each projects sufficiently high above it to allow of
the belt passing through them, covering the top of
the skirt ; and, when on the body, and the belt but-
toned round the waist, the skirt has the appearance
of being attached to the body, as in an ordinary
" sac." The lower part of the jacket is covered by
the skirt.

It will be necessary to arrange the fulness of the
skirt when confined by the belt, so that it may hang
gracefully and be properly divided.

For convenience, pockets may be placed at front,
with flaps, to preserve the character of the skirt
when on. •

The advantages of this invention will be palpable
to any one who studies its application, and we have
reason to believe that it will be generally adopted
when once its merits have become known.

vmt0tm^m0^mmmm^m^^m ^0*mmm0^mm

THE "ULSTER'' JACKET.

We have illustrated on the two figures on one of
the plates issued with our present number, a new
style of jacket, of which we also give the pattern ;
and, in describing it, have noticed all the particular
features which claim for it a favourable reception
from the trade. We have represented the jacket in
both forms — ^wom open, the lapels turned back; and

buttoned across to the throat, with the collar to stand
up. We have also shown the two ways of fastening
the belt round the waist — with a button and hole, or
with a buckle.

On another figure, we illustrate the effect produced
by the addition of a skirt, the pattern of which, with
instructions, we have given in our collection. It is
represented as worn under the jacket, whereas, in our
details, we notice it as worn over. There is no reason
why both plans may not equally well be adopted,
unless the appearance of the skirt of the jacket over
the other may be considered objectionable. We
introduce the style to make a variety.

The roll, in the hand of the figure with the jacket
turned back, represents the loose skirt packed up as a
travelling rug.

«.«««>«•«•«««••••«••••

We have shown two style? of morning-coats,
which, differing materially firom each other, are both
well adapted for the season.

One, on the plate with a female figure, is double-
breasted, with the lapels cut on. The skirt short,
and cut off at the bottom to an angle. Waist mode-
rate in length; lapel broad, with four holes and
buttons. Collar low in the stand, but deeper in pro-
portion in the fall. Sleeve easy, with a round cuflT,
and one button and hole. Edges bound narrow.

The other morning-coat has the lapels cut on, with
five holes in it, and the skirt longer, and with a curve
at the front-edge from the top and the end of the
lapel. There are flaps in the waist-seams, and the
edges are turned in and stitched.

The present style of morning-trousers is well de-
lineated on the several figures, springing easily on
the foot, and not too large in the leg.

The walking-jacket, illustrated on the figure of a
lady, is very elegant, and made up in velvet will be
very effective. It fits to the figure, allowing, at the
same time, ample scope for the fulness of the dress
and the figure. It fastens at front with two buttons
and holes, or by two buttons and loops. There is a
bold lapel, which is worn turned back, and, together
with the bottom of the front-edges of the -skirts, the
cuffs, collar, and epaulettes, is faced with black
silk or satin.

'm:^s^^^

EDWARD MINISTKR \S\) SON'
I.ondoti

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March l'-L§£^'Zl.JTl 07 7i\Sin.m^ — 1870

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EDWARD MlMSTl'R AND .S0.\

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March V! 1870

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1446

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March 1^ 1870

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plale 1441

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GAZETTE OF FASHION,

AND

CUTTING ROOM COMPANION.

EDWARD MINISTER AND SON,

Cailart anO ^Mt fHAttt to Kit ^aftfls.
No. 8, ARGYLL PLACE, REGENT STREET, LONDON. W.

ALTERATIONS IN UNIF0BM3 OF THE

ABMT.

UNiroBH roR OrnciBs or the Abut Sebvice Cobts.

By Bome recflnt alterations in certain branchea of
the ■ervice, oome have been merged into a body
under the above title, and tLe distinct uniform has
been ordered for the odScers attached to it. The
patterns have been sealed, but at yet no printed
particulars have been published; so soon as thej are
issued, we shall put our readers in possession of the
details. In the meantime we give the following
description of the dress and accoutrements, as it is
important our patrons should be in early possession
of the necessary information respecting them.

Tunic. — Blue, single-breasted, eight buttons to
pattern r^iular at front, with a ketch out on to the
right forepart. Blue velvet stand-collar, low, and
rounded off at front. Fronts of foreparts, skirts, and
plaits edged with while, quarter-inch wide. The
skirt lined with black, and the body with drab silk

serge. On the shoulders a strap of double gold cord,
to button at top of shoulder with a small button to
pattern, the bottom sewn on to the shoulder'Seam.
Pointed cuff of blue velvet, depth and trimming
according to the regulation for distinction of rank.
One button at each hip. Back-skirt whole.

DiSTINGTIOKS IN BaNK.
CUFF.

ControUert, mho rank aa Major-Generalt.
Two bars of gold lace to pattern, three-quarters of
an inch wide, with a quarter-inch Ught between the
two bare; traced outside with double eyea alter-
nately large and small, finishing with an Atutrian
knot at top. The point of the top bar of lace 8
inches high, and the top of the Austrian knot 10|
inches; the lower lace traced inside with double eyes
alternately large and small, finishing with a " crow's-
foot and eye," and showing a light of a quarter of
an inch between the bottom-edge of the lace and
the gold braid.

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GAZETTE OF FASmON.

[April 1, 1870

Deputy- Controllers.
Two bars as for Controller, but the eyes all of one
size outside and inside the bars, with '* crow's-foot
and eye " below.

Assistant' Controllers,

Single eyes on top and bottom of laoes, with Aus-
trian knot as before described. The eyes to be of
the same size as on the cuff of a Field Officer of
In&ntry, and the light between the laces and the
tracings of the same width as in the Infantry, 3-16ths
of an inch.

Commissaries,

The lace half an inch in width, and traced outside
only with eyes, finishing in an Austrian knot. A
" crow's-foot and eye " below the bottom lace. The
eyes of the same size as on the cuff of Field Officers
of Infantry, and the lights between the laces and the
tracing-braid of the same width as worn in the
Infantry.

Deputy- Commissaries,

The top bar of lace traced outside with a gold cord,
finishing in an Austrian knot, and a braid and
" crow's-foot and eye " below.

Top point of lace 8^ inches high.

Assistant- Commissaries.
Top of Austrian knot, 9 J inches high. Top point
of lace, 7 J inches high. Lace half an inch wide.
The top and bottom laces traced with braid, finishing
in an Austrian knot above, and with a '^ crow's-foot
and eye" below the bottom lace.

Ck)LLAR.

Controllers and Deputy-Controllers.
Blue velvet, low, and rounded at front. One-inch
lace along top, ends, and bottom, with a quarter of
an inch light between.

Assistant- Controllers.
Lace on top and ends, and tracing-braid along the
bottom. Eyes alternately large and small between
the lace and the braid; same size as for Field
Officers of In^try.

Commissaries,
One inch and a half deep. Half-inch lace on top
and ends, with tracing-braid along the bottom,
and eyes all equal in size between. The same size
as on tunic collar of the officers of Infantry.

■^'S^

Deputy-CommissaritB.
Top and ends laced with half-inch lace; braid
along bottom.

Assistant- Commissaries*
Same as Deputy-Ck>nunissaries.

Belative Badges for Collars.

Controllers.

Deputy-Controllers.

Assistant-Controllers.

Commissaries.

Deputy-Commissaries.

Star.

Crown and Star.

Crown.

Star.

Crown and Star.

Assistant-Commissaries. Crown.

Trousers for Dress.

Blue, 'with two laces three-quarters of an inch
wide, and quarter-inch light between of light blue,
ribbed.

Commissaries to have lace of the same width as
worn by officers of the Infantry.

Undress-Trousers.
Blue, with blue stripe an inch wide, and quarter
of an inch white edging on each side.

Frock-Coat.

Controllers.

Blue, with velvet rolling collar, edged with three-
quarters of an inch black lace, traced with Bussia braid.
The lace only down the front-edge of the skirts, and
the edges of the back-skirts. Five lo(^ of lace on
each breast; back of top loop 9 inches from front-
edge of forepart, bottom one 4} inches. Double
olivets 1 j inch long on each loop. Pmnted velvet
cuff. Back whole. A filled eye of lace at each
hip, and one between them at bottom of back.
An olivet at each hip. Skirts lined with black mlk
serge; foreparts with cloth. Black silk side-bodies.
Star on collar facing the seam.

Assistant'ControUers and DqnUy-ControUers.

The collar faced with cloth, and without badges.

Distinctions in Rank.

Cuff.

Controllers and Deputy-Controllers.

Two bars of silk lace 1^ inch wide, and quaiter-

inoh light between, traced outside with large mod

small eyes alternately in Russia braid, finishing with

an Austrian knot at top, making it 10 inches hi^.

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April 1, 1870.]

6AZETTB OF JASHLOHl.

Point of top bar 8 incites high. Traced inside with

large and small ejes alternatelj in Russia braid^

finishing down the cnflT with a "crow's-foot and

eye.*

AsMtcttU'ChntroUenu

Top point of bar 7f inches high, bottom bar 5|.

Ejres traced otilside and inside, regular in size, with

Austrian knot at top, and '' crow's-foot and eye " on

caff below the kce.

Shill-Jackbt.
Blue, single-breasted; studs at front. Low stand-
collar, Tehret, rounded ai front. Gold cord on edges,
and a figure at bottom of each side-seam 2^ inches
high. Vdret pointed cuff. Double shoulder-cords,
with small button. Front of jacket fiwtened with
hooks and eyes. Lined with drab silk serge.

DiSTDfcnoN nr Bahk.
Cuff.
Deputy- CarUroUers.
Austrian knot in gold braid, 10} inches high, and
two bars of braid below. Top of upper bar 6 inches
from bottom of cuff; three-eighths of an inch light
between. Traced outside with large eyes, finishing
in Austrian knot; and inside with eyes and a '' crow's-
foot and eye " below.

A8$iatant'C<nUroUer8.
The same as for Depu^-Controllers, but without
^e eyes helaw the braid.

ComnUBBories.
The two bars of braid with Austrian knot without
eyes either above or below. Jacket edged with white
a quarter of an inch wide.

Deputy-ConrndBaariea.
To hare two bars only.

AaMiant-Cammiataries.
One bar only of gold Bussia braid.

Collar.
Dqmty'CaniroUers*
Three-quarters of an inch gold lace on top and
ends of collar; a gold Rusda cord on bottom.

AsaisUmt'ControUers.
The same.
CamnUssarieSf Deputy' CamnMsarieSf and Aeeistant-

Cammmaries.
Gold Russia cord onl7 on collar, on top ends and
along the bottom.

Relative Badges for Collars.
Deputy-Controllers. Crown and Star.

Assistant-Controllers. Crown.

Officers of the three other ranks not to wear
badges.

Mkss-Waistooat.

Blue stand-collar, rounded at the ends, edged with
gold Russia cord. Studs and hooks and eyes at front.
" Crow's-foot" formed at each end of pocket-openings,
with figure at the centre, top and bottom.

The waistcoat we hare just described is that now
worn, and to be continued in use.

Foraoe-Cap.

Blue, with leather peak and chin-strap. A band of
two, five-eighths of an inch gold laces, with a quarter
of an inch light between, and gilt net button at top
of crown, y^ Ccmmieetxries wearing cocked hats.

Controllers, Deputy-Controllers, and Assistant-
Controllers, to have an ornament in gold lace on top
of crown, with worked net button, and half-inch
embroidery on edge of peak.

ALTERATIONS IN UNIFORM OF HIGHLAND

REGIMENTS.

The following alterations have been made in the
cuffs: —

Pointed cuff at hind-arm, as the old Court-dress
cuffs, but hollowed on top-edge. Depth of cuff at
fore-arm 4 inches, and 6} at the hind-arm.

DiSTiiffcnoNs IN Rank.

Colonel,
Two r^mental laces half an inch wide on top of
cuff, with one-eighth of an inch light between, and
one only carried down the back-edge; and two gold
Russia cords below the bottom lace. Three gold
cord holes, with buttons at top.

Lmtenawl'ColoMl,
One cord only below the lace, and the holes and
buttons.

Majors,
Two laces only, and the holes and buttons.

9^s>*

* V

->'

9^d*-

• f)

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[Apbil 1, 1870.

Captains.

One lace and one row of gold Russia cord, with
the holes and buttons.

Lieutenants and Ensigns,
One lace onlj, with the three holes and buttons.
The length of the holes varies according to the
depth of cuff left bj the different styles of trimming
the top-edge.

MIW.«*MW««I*

A GLANCE AT FOREIGN SYSTEMS

OF CUTTING.

{Continued from page 82.)

In our last number we gave an extract from the
vystem of putting published by our contemporary,
M. Lad^v^e in the monthly work issued by him in
PariSy and selected for our illustration his plan of
cutting the forepart and back of a dress or frock
coat, we now complete our ii^ormation by giving his
method for producing the sleeve and skirts.
To Produce the Dbess-coat and Mornxno-coat

Skirts.
Diagram 10.

Draw the Hues A and B square with each other.
From the angle formed by them, mark down on the
line A, one-sixth of the breast (8), and mark half
this distance (l})* and again subdivide this portion,
which will represent three-quarters of an inch.
Draw the lines C, D, and £, from these three points,
parallel with the line B. Measure from the point on
the line A, marked three-quarters down from the
angle, down the line A, for the length of skirt; and
draw the Une F, square with A. Determine the
widths cf the skirt by the following directions: —
Starting from the line A on the line C, mark in
three-quarters of an inch, to allow for the round of
the plait, and shape the edge to F; and from the
curved line mark on the line D, the width of the skirt
at the top, by half of the breast-measure, and about
an inch allowed besides for the Y's, which are taken
out to give liberty for the hips. We might make
use of the hip-measure, but, as it almost inva-
riably corresponds with the size of the breast, it is
useless to take it, unless by observation it is con-
sidered advisable.

We then determine the end of the strap of the
skirt at front, on the line E, guiding ourselves by
the forepart; but generally by a proportion which
is regulated by a third of the breast-measure when
divided; making the distance to the front-edge of
the skirt from 6 to 6^ inches.

From the bottom of the skirt mark along the line
F, for the width of the bottom, rather more than a
third of the breast, and from this point form the
front-edge of the skirt G. Shape the top of the
skirt from the top of the plait, carrying it up to the
line B, and lowering it at front to the line D, and
the bottom of the strap on the line E, as shown by
the diagram.

It must not be supposed that the V s taken out on
the top-edge of the skirt are necessary for every
figure; we know a number of tailors who never have
recourse to them in their practice; but then they
press back the round of the top-edge, so as lo throw
a certain amount of frdness on to the prominent part
of the seat, and to bring the edge straight, and
stretch the bottom of the forepart By this plan
they realize the same result as by the Y^s. This
method, however, requires experienced joumejnnen
to carry it out efficiently.

The line H indicates the shape of the front-edge of
a skirt for a morning-coat.

We may remark that, as a rule, the skirt of a
dress-coat or morning-coat should never be drafted
without regulating the shape of the top at the hip,
by the bottom of the forepart firom the bottom of the
side-body-seam to the side-seam.

It will then be seen whether it will be necessary
to lower the back more or less than three-quarters of
an inch.

The forepart should determine the shape of the
top of the skirt, whether at back or at front. It
should always correspond with it in shape, as if the
two formed but a single piece of cloth* This
rule should equally be made to apply to frock-ooata
and to regimental tunics.

To Produce the Sleeve.
Dugram 14.
To draft a sleeve for either dress or frock coat-
Draw the lines A and B. Commencing from the
angle formed by the two lines, mark the different quan-

^^^e^^ ^^jJOo

^9^

AniL 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

titles represented on the diagram. In order, howerer,
to draft it by the measures, we must proceed in the
following manner: —

Mark down on the line A, half the circumference
of the top part of the arm — say 44^-and draw the
line C, square with A; then mark a point one inch
and an eighth, which will show the amount of round
to l>e allowed for the sleere-head, by carrying the
top-side from the point on Ihe line to A, and on to
the line C.

To operate carefully by the sleeve-measures,
deduct the width of the back, and place the tape-
measure at the point marked down from the angle
(1|), and mark the length of elbow (21). Keeping
the measure in hand, draw the line D; continue then
to the full length of the sleeve (32). Mark up one
inch and an eighth, and draw the lines E and F.

On the lines B and F, nuurk the width of the cir-
cumference of the scye (8^), and draw the line G,
parallel with A. Then draw the line H, which
indicates the round of the top-side sleeve. Draw the
line I, from the line C, and intersect the line G on
the line F; hollow it three-eighths of an inch at the
centre from the straight line G.

Mark the width of the sleeve at the hand (6) from
the bottom of the line G on E, to the line F, and
draw a line from the two points. Add on rather
more than an inch beyond the line A, opposite to
the line D, and shape the hind-arm from the point
drawn an inch and an eighth on the line A, down from
the angle of the lines A and B, intersecting the point
marked out at the elbow, and continuing it to the
line F. The top of the under-side sleeve is hooked
in rather more than an inch. Form the under-side
as shown in the diagram.

Should the sleeve be required to be made up with
a cuff, the judgment of the tailor will serve to point
out what alteration is necessary in the shape.

To PfiODUCE THE FbOCK-COAT SkIRT.
DUGRAM 1.

Draw the lines A B and A C square with each
other. Mark on the line A B, at D, two inches ; and
from A to C, the width of the top of the skirt,
according to the measure, allowing for the width
of lapel, and the quantity required for fulness.
Draw a line from D to C.

From C, square with A C, draw a line, and mark

on it, at H, eight inches; square out to I from this

point three and a quarter, and draw a line frt>m C,

through I, to E at the bottom of the skirt, according

to the measure. Add on an inch for the round of

plait. Mark from D to B, rather more than the

length from C to E, and shape the bottom of the skirt,

B, K, and E.

{To he continued.)

NEW DESIGNS FOR LADIES' BIDING-

HABITS.

Agreeably with our usual custom at this period of
the year, we publish with the present number of our
work the illustrations of the most fashionable and
the most novel styles of Ladies* Riding-habits.

We extract the following particulars as to detail
and making up from our work, the ''Report of
Fashion," just issued for the present season, and our
readers will find ample directions for their guidance
and information: —

It will be seen that the long jacket-skirt has been
discontinued, or at least superseded, to an extent, by
the short skirt, now cut on to the forepart. The
waist is short, the back moderately broad only
across to the back-scye, but narrow at the hip-
buttons. The forepart is &8tened up to the gorge
with hooks and eyes, but buttons or olivets are sewn
on to the left forepart. A narrow neck-binding is
frequently sewn on to the top of the habit, and the
end rounded off. The bottom of the side-body-seam
is sometimes left open, to give liberty for a promi-
nent hip, and the front-edge of the forepart is cut
away a little at the bottom. There are two plaits
formed under the bosom, as this plan gives a more
graceful appearance to the bust. The sleeve is cut
like a coat-sleeve in shape, but not with any amount
of round at the hind-arm-seam. Some have a nar-
row pointed cuff with two holes and buttons. A
black linen is put down the fronts of the foreparts,
and horsehair through the shoulders and front of the
body, with a band cut on the crossways over it, so
as to keep the body in a good shape. A little wad-
ding is advisable at front of the scye, as most ladies
fall in at that part, and the hollow between the scye

^S^P*-

'-ee^esaaEs^^^-

--^■e^gsaei

GAZETTE OF FASHION.

[Apbil 1, 1870.

nd the bosom haa an nnughtlj appearance. The
■ody and back are lined with coloured silk, qnilted,
nd stitched on flannel. The bottom part or the
>aclc and forepart are either lined with linen or
loth, to give a finnneeg, and make them set well off
rom the body.

The train is now worn with more fulness than
rhen the gored skirt first came into fashion, as the
ery limited compass then cut in them was found
DConTenient in use. The upper half of the train, as
.ov worn, is cnt about two inches larger than the
rhole of the waist- measure, and hollowed at the
entre, about three inches from a straight line drawn
rom the tops of the two side-seams. The left side-
seam, for an ordinary height, would averse from
47 to 49, and the right side about ten inches longer,
to allow ibr the position of the leg when in the
saddle. The under-side is cat 38 inches wide at
top, and to correspond with the aide-seams of the
top-side, allowing a little for fulness to be held on
near the top. An opening is left for a pocket, and
a ketch cut on to the edge of the under part of the
train. There is only a narrow turn-up at the bottom.
The train is sewn on to a narrow band, which is cut
with a point at front, and is fastened at the side of
the waist by a buckle and strap, and a small tab is
sewn on to the back, with two holes worked in it,
and two flexible buttons sewn on to the band of the
train to correspond. By this means the bsbit-body
is kept well in its place, and not so much interfered
with as it wotild otherwise be by the actbn of the
body on the horse.

If the habit be required plun, a three-eighths silk
braid on the edges is sufficient ; but this is a garment
which especially admits of ornament, and the care
with which it is executed, and the taste displayed in
the design, are often of great importance in their in-
fluence, as they are both set off to the utmost advan-
tage on the bust of a well-made woman. The pat-
tern we have illustrated on two of the figures, will be
found very effective, but at the same time will
involve some little trouble in the execution.

Blue, of a light shade, and also in a flill colour, is
much worn; bat black is still patronized by some
ladies, while mulberry has its admirers. Ball but-
tons are the most fashionable.

Trousers are invariably worn by ladies when
riding; the shortness of the train renders them a
necessity. They are made of cloth, or of chamois
leather, with cloth up to the knee only. They are
cut easy over the body, but small at the waist and at
the foot. The top-side is well hollowed on the instep,
and a narrow strap of cloth is sawn on to the top and
under sides. They will not require braces. They
are made with a fly-front, the opening carried to
the top of the leg-seam, or open at the side-seams,
with one or two buttons and holes and a ketch
sewn on.

The light colours in Tweed and Uelton cloth make
up well in habits, especially for young ladies in the
country or by the sea-side. They may be made plain,
or trimmed with a braid to matoh.

The form of frock-coat which will be most in vogue
for the ensuing season is faithtiilly represented by one
of the figures on one of the plates for the present
month. The waist is cut but little longer than for
dress, and the back is not much wider at the bottom
between the hip-buHons. The back is still cut wide
across to the back-scye, as the object is to give the
appearance of width to the chest. There is some-
times, however, an inconvenience attending this
fashion, when the tailor meets with customeni whose
make will not admit of a wide back without involv-
ing the risk of a fulness at the top of the side-seams.

The lapel is of a medium width, and not very
pointed at top. The comer is square. There are five
holes worked in it. The outer edge is but little
rounded, compared with the style worn some short
time since. The sleeve is cut quite easy to the arm,
but not so wide at the hand. Cuffs are now generally
in wear, with one or two buttons and holes, and the
usual opening above in the hind-arm-seam. The
collar is low in the stand, and, witli the usual charac-
teristic at the present time, deeper in the fall in pro-
portion. It is not quite so broad at the end as the
top of the lapel, and with a small light between. The
skirt is short, but is now cut with a little more com-
pass, as the coat is worn buttoned at the waist, and
is sufliciently close to define the figure. The edges
are trimmed with a uirrow bnud or a silk royat cord.
The breaat-facings, as far as the hipel-seama, are

"■cieaa s ^goj -

-«.ea

i ^S^cD^

April 1, 1870.]

GAZETTE OF FASfflON.

oorered -vrith plain, ribbed| or a diagonal line
silk serge. Fancy twist and silk buttons, both flat
and domed shi^, are worn.

Blue of a light shade, in superfine cloth, is the
fashionable colour for this summer; other shades
will also be worn, but this particular shade will
take the lead. The fancy coatings, in which there
are some excellent patterns in the new goods for the
season, are well adapted for this form of morning-
dress.

The style of morning-coat shown by the front and
back views on two of the figures in our present collec-
tion, without possessing any claim to novelty, is still
one which will recommend itself as a useful coat,
and is available for many purposes.

It is single-breasted, cut rather long in the waist,
and the hip-buttons placed moderately wide apart,
without being extravagantly so. The forepart is cut
quite large to the measure, although it is not in-
tended to be worn buttoned lower than the top or
third button of the hole marked up the front-edge.
The turn is broad and the step large, with the
comer square or slightly rounded off to fancy. Low
collar, deeper in the stand, and the end well sloped
off, small, and rounded. Wide sleeve, plain at the
hand, and rather small. The skirt is short, cut
forward on the thigh, but well rounded off at the
bottom of the firont-edge. There are usually flaps in
the waist-seam, with pockets under. The edges are
turned in, and stitched rather broad, or bound narrow
with braid, accordingly as best adapted to the make
of the article employed.

Fancy patterns in coating, as checks, ribs, and
open mixtures, in stylish colours, some of them
exceedingly smart and striking, tell well when made
up in this form of coat Among the different
patterns in the new goods we notice some large
checks, which will have a smart effect made up.

Waistcoats for morning wear at the present time
are made single-breasted and double-breasted; the
former is, perhaps, more usually adopted. They are
buttoned up rather high, and are not cut pointed at
front The lower button is placed about two inches
from the bottom. There is no collar, and the neck
is cut high.

When made double-breasted, the lapel is broad

both at top and at bottom, and is cut on. The
comer is rounded off, and the collar is very narrow
and low. There are three or four holes in the lapeL

Morning-trousers are cut larger over the foot, and
to lie on the boot. They are straight in the 1^. The
top-side is cut narrower at the top and at the bottom
of the side-seam, but the side-seam of the under-side
is not hollowed, as was usual, from the knee down-
wards, but cut almost straight to the bottom.

We have represented on the several figures some
of the new patterns now worn, and shall continue,
during the season, to illustrate the leading styles in
trouserings. Our efforts wiU be ably supported by
our talented artists, who possess an especial facility
for rendering them with accuracy and effect.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PATTERNS m

DIAGRAM.

Plates 1451 and 1452.

Diagram 1, illustrates M. Lad6v^ze*s system for
producing a frock-coat skirt, and is described in our
extract from his treatise, which we publish in the
present number.

Diagrams 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, and 17, are the pattern of
a double-breasted frock-coat to the present style,
and as illustrated by one of the figures on one of the
plates issued this month.

Diagrams 5, 6, 9, and 13, are the pattern of one
of the prevailing styles of ladies' riding-habits for
the present season. The full particulars will be
found in our description of this garment, as repre-
sented by three of the figures on the plates for this
month's number.

Diagram 10, illustrates M. Lad^v^ze's system for
producing a dress and morning coat skirts, and we
refer our readers to our notice for directions.

Diagrams 11, 12, 15, 16, and 18, are the pattern
of a single-breasted morning-coat— one of the leading
styles for the season — ^and we have illustrated the
front and back views on this month's plates.

Diagram 14, illustrates M. Lad^v^e's system for
producing the sleeve for a dress-coat, fi:xx:k, or
morning-coat, according to the instructions given in
our extract firom his work, which appears in the
present number.

e^6^^SffiS^^9^

.^^

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*-^ • '

TtKD^

* •

CONTENTS OF VOL

Mat. — System for Prodncing Ladies* Riding-Trousers—
BeneTolent Institation for the Relief of Aged and Infirm
Journeymen-Tailors — ^New Evening-Drest — ^New Courts
Dress, Further Alteration — On the Monotony of the
Present Style of Dress — Reriew of Parisian Fashions —
Patterns of New Style of Coat for ETening-Dress, Dress-
TroQsers, and Waistooat, Doable-Breasted Lounge-Jac«
ket, and Riding-Trousers for Ladies.

JoMB.— System of Cutting, by " Sartor "—Plan for Draft-
ing a Coat— Analysis of Styles of Dress for the Present
Season— Patterns of Morning-Coat and Child's Dress—
Prerailing Parisian Fashions — ^Alteration in Style of
Dress.

JvLT.— XJniTersal System of Cutting, by •* Strtor " («m.
<tfitM(Q— System for Shirts, and Coat for Corpulent
Figure— Letter and Pattern of Trousers, by John Ander-
son—Machine for Pressing — ^Wedding- Dress — Riding-
Dress — Patterns of Pair of Trousers, by John Anderson
—Morning-Coat, from the Work of Herr Miiller, of
Dresden— Chfld*s Dress— The ^im<to — The Cutter's
Right-Hand Measured

AxJOusT. — ^UniTersal System of Cutting, by " Sartor " (eon-
iinued) — System for Producing the (Hiesterfield Form
of Oyer-Coat — Letter on System for Producing Ladies'
Riding-Trousers, by ** M. S."— Remarks on Mr. Ander-
son's Pattern of Trousers, by *' Alpha" — Rumoured
Alteration in the Uniform of the Army— Shooting-Dress,
Morning-Coats, Frock-Coats — Patterns of Shooting-
Jacket, Waistcoat, and Knickerbockers.

Sbptbhbbb.— XJniTersal System of Cutting, by '* Sartor "
(cantinued) — System for Producing Sao OTer-Coata —
Letter frt>m *'X" on Ladies' Trousers — ^Philanthropic
Society of Master-Tailors of Paris— Clements's Patent
Damping Apparatus for the Cutting-Room and Work-
shop—The ** Report of Fashion " — Costume of the
Month — Patterns of Double-Breasted Morning-Coat,
Boy's Jacket, and Lady's Jacket.

OcTOBBB. — Editorial Notice — Letter by "Sartor," on
Remarks by a Calcutta Correspondent — Anderson's
Regbtered** Deltoid" Shirt— Leypoldt's Patent Button-
Hole Cutter — Fashions of the Season — Patterns of Fit-
ting Oyer-Coat, Hunt-Coat, and Chesterfield Oreat-
Coat.

NoTSMBUL— System of Cutting, by "Sartor" {(xmtimed)

—System for Waistcoatir— Philanthropic Society of
Master-Tailors of Paris— Prises Ibr Good Workman-
ship—English Fashions— Patterns of Double-Breasted
Frock-Coat« Double-Breasted Waistcoat with Roll-
Collar, Lady's Jacket, and Morning-Trousers — ^Epitome
of French Fashions.

Dbcbxbbb. — ^Philanthropic Society of Master-Tailors of
Paris, Distribution of Prises for Good Workmanship—
Universal System of Cutting, by " Sartor " {eorUmued) —
System for Producing the Livemess Cape irith Sleeves
— Evening-Dress— Patterns of Dress-Coat and Waist-
coat, and New Form of Over-Coat.

Januabt. — Editorial Address on the New Year — On the
Necessity for Improving the Present Race of Journeymen-
Tailors— Remarks on " Sartor's " System, by «* T. M. J."
—The "Ulster" Over-Coat— New Style of Morning-
Coat — Appeal to the Master-Tailors of London, by
Richard Price-Pattern of the "Ulster" Great-Coat,
New Style of Chesterfield Over-Coat, and New Style of
Morning-Coat.

Fbbbuabt. — Philanthropic Society of Master-Tailors of
Paris, Special Address to the Members by M. Jansens,
Sen. — Lecture on Trouser-Cutting, by Mr. Cox — Uni-
versal System of Cutting, by "Sartor;" Height of
Neck, Letter from Correspondent at Calcutta, " P. M.,"
on his Previous Charge against " Ssrtor "—Wool Tiade
of 1869— Patterns of Little Boy's Suit, New Style of
Lady's Jacket and Lounge -Jacket, New Style of Over-
coat with Cape — ^Description of Plates.

Mabch. — A Glance at Foreign Systems of Cutting; M.
Lad^v^ze's System of Coats — Essays and Lectures on
Cutting, by Members of Foreman-Tailors' Societies of
Cutters — Royal Calabar Cloth — The "Report of
Fashion "—Patterns of Single- Breasted Morning- Coat,
the "Ulster" Jacket with Loose Skirt, the "Ulster"
Jacket — Description of Plates.

Apbil. — A Glance at Foreign Systems of Cutting (con-
tinned) ; M. Lad^v^ze's System — New Designs of Ladies*
Riding-Habits Illustrated and Described — Description
of Fashion— Alteration in Uniforms of the Army : New
Uniforms for Officers of the "Army Service Corps ; " Al-
terations in the Sleeves of the Uniform of the Highland
Regiments — Patterns of Double-Breasted Frock- Coat,
Lady's Riding-Habit, and Single-Breasted Morning-
Coat— Description of Plates.

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EDWARD MINISTER AND SON

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GAZETTE OF FASHION

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April tf 1870

GAZETTE OF FASHION

Plate 1452

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