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THE GEOLOGY

NEW HAMPSHIRE

A REPORT COMPRISING THE RESULTS OF EXPLORATIONS ORDERED BY

THE LEGISLATURE.

C. H. HITCHCOCK,

State Geologist.

J. H. HUNTINGTON,

Principal Assistant.

PART I. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

CONCORD:
EDWARD A. JENKS, STATE PRINTER.

1874.

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PREFACE.

It has been found impossible to treat of the subjects of metamorphism,
elevation of mountains, and earthquakes within the limits of this volume,
as originally contemplated, but we hope not to neglect them altogether, as
provision has been made for the printing of another book, devoted more
particularly to geology and mineralogy, in which these topics will be fully
discussed.

Some of the following chapters have been prepared by gentlemen eminent
in their several specialties, not officially connected with the Survey, who
have kindly devoted their time and strength to the work without remunera-
tion for their services. To them our thanks are specially extended.

Mr. Warren Upham, of Nashua, compiled the interesting chapter upon
the History of Explorations among the White Mountains, and the descrip-
tion of the river systems. If the observations upon altitudes constitute the
most thorough and perhaps most useful chapter in the volume, it is due to
the indefatigable diligence of Mr. Upham, in comparing the various railroad
surveys from different parts of the state, sifting out what seemed unreliable,
and matching them together into one connected whole.

With such substantial foundations established for the elucidation of the
water-power of the state as are afforded by these two chapters, it is to be
hoped that the Executive will call to mind an act passed by the legislature
in reference to the appointment of a hydrographic commission. The infor-
mation in this report would be of so much service to that commission, that
the sum appropriated for their work would be sufficient to bring out results
of great benefit to the state, which could not otherwise have been obtained
to so good advantage.

IV PREFACE.

The valuable treatises of Mr. S. H. Scudder, of Cambridge, Mass., upon
the Distribution of Insects, of Dr. A. M. Edwards, of Newark, N. J., upon
the Natural History of the Diatomacere, and of Mr. W. F. Flint, of Rich-
mond, upon the Distribution of Plants, are well adapted to awaken among
our citizens a new interest in the departments of entomology, microscopy,
and botany. Should this result follow, the several gentlemen will feel them-
selves amply repaid for their exertions in our behalf.

Prof. Quimby's essay upon the use of the magnetic needle in surveying
has been issued separately, for the benefit of students and engineers.

Mr. Isaac N. Andrews, of Nashua, has rendered the appearance of the
volume more satisfactory by allowing us the privilege of copying many of
the elegant wood-engravings, relating to White Mountain scenery, from the
White Hills, by the late Rev. T. Starr King.

The Atlas will show very important contributions to the study of our
topography, in the truthful delineations of outline sketches, from prominent
points, of the White Mountains, prepared by the skilful hand of Mr. Geo. F.
Morse, of Portland, Me., who has devoted much time to their preparation.

It was found impossible to obtain a satisfactory heliotype of the view of
the White Mountain range from Jackson, which was intended for the frontis-
piece. In its place we have inserted the view illustrating the ledges frac-
tured by frost, upon the summit of Mt. Washington. For a similar reason,
the view of the White Mountain Notch from Mt. Willard, accompanying
one of the Willey house, is copied from a hand sketch.

C. H. HITCHCOCK.
Hanover, Dec. r, 1S74.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter. Pa^e.

I. HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEYS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.

By C. H. Hitchcock 3

II. HISTORY OF THE PRESENT GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 13

III. HISTORY OF THE SURVEY Continued.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 29

IV. HISTORY OF EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUN-

TAINS.
By Warren Upham, 59

V. CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

By J. H. Huntington, 119

VI. THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING.

By E. T. Quimby, 147

VII. TOPOGRAPHY.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 169

VIII. TOPOGRAPHY OF COOS COUNTY.

By J. H. Huntington, 216

IX. TOPOGRAPHICAL MAPS OF THE STATE.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 227

X. ALTITUDES.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 248

XL RIVER SYSTEMS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

By Warren Upham, 298

XII. THE DISTRIBUTION OF INSECTS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.

By Samuel H. Scudder, 331

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Chapter. Page.

XIII. THE DISTRIBUTION OF PLANTS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.

By William F. Flint, 381

XIV. NATURAL HISTORY OF THE DIATOMACE/E.

By A. Mead Edwards, 416

XV. PHYSICAL HISTORY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 506

XVI. THE RELATIONS OF GEOLOGY TO AGRICULTURE.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 546

XVII. REMARKS UPON THE DISTRIBUTION OF ANIMALS AND
PLANTS.
By C. H. Hitchcock, . 559

XVIII. SCENOGRAPHICAL GEOLOGY.

By C. H. Hitchcock, 586

XIX. SCENERY OF COOS COUNTY.

By J. H. Huntington, 636

APPENDIX, 651

INDEX, 653

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PRINTED WITH THE TEXT.

Page.

Vignette on title-page, from a photograph of the "Old Man of the Mountains,"
Franconia.

Mts. Madison and Washington, from Shelburne, 3

Fig. 1, Dr. Jackson's ideal section, 10

Granite ledge in Bartlett, 12

Castellated ridge of Mt. Jefferson, 28

Fig. 2, Section across the Flume, 42

Fig. 6, Ice formed on Mt. Washington with south-west wind, .... 58

Fig. 7, Lancaster and the White Mountains, 68

Fig. 8, Giant's Grave, 72

Fig. 9, The Willey slide and monument jy

Fig. 10, Summit of Mt. Washington, from the north, in winter, .... 91

Fig. 11, Measuring the wind, 95

Fig. 12, Laying the cable on Jacob's Ladder, 100

Fig. 13, The home of the winter expedition, 103

Fig. 14, Corona seen April 28, 115

Fig. 15, Anemometer, 118

Tracks of storm centres for January, 1874, . . , . . .120

Fig. 16, Tip-top house in winter, 131

Fig. 17, Velocity of wind in miles per hour, 135

Fig. 18, Height of barometer corrected for pressure, 135

Diagram I, Fluctuations in rain- fall on Atlantic coast, . . . .137

Diagram II, Fluctuations in rain-fall of upper Connecticut valley, . . 137

Diagram III, Fluctuations in snow-fall of upper Connecticut valley, . 137

Diagram IV, Fluctuations in rain-fall at Lake Village, . . . I 37

Diagram V-A, Maximum temperature at Claremont and Stratford, . . 139

via

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

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Diagram V-B, Minimum temperature at Claremont and Stratford, .
Diagram VI, Mean temperature of Exeter, Claremont, and Stratford,
Diagram VII, Mean temperature of Mt. Washington and Lunenburg, Vt
Diagram VIII, Cold period, Jan. 10-14, 1S61,
Diagram IX, Cold period, Jan. 21-25, 1871,
Diagram X, Velocity of wind at summit and at base of Mt. Washington
May, 1872,

19, Mt. Moriah in Gorham, ......

Lines of equal magnetic dip and horizontal intensity,

Lines of equal magnetic variation for the year 1856,

Diurnal variations of the magnetic needle at Hanover, Jan., 1872,

Magnetic storm at Hanover, Feb. 4, 1872,

20, Gap between Sawyer's mountain and Soapstone hill,

21, Mt. Lyon, from Guildhall falls,

22, Mt. Carter, from Gorham,

23, Mt. Jefferson and Great gulf, .

24, Ravines on Mt. Washington, from Thompson's falls,

25, Mt. Washington, from near Fabyan's

26, Mt. Crawford, from the north-west,

27, Outline of Cherry mountain, .

28, Outline of Mt. Osceola, .

29, Outline of Mt. Tecumseh,

30, Outline of Black mountain,

31, Summit of Mt. Chocorua,

32, Outlines of mountains between Haystack and Sugar Loaf,
23, Outlines of mountains between Haystack and South Twin,

34, Mountain range between Lafayette and Twin,

35, Franconia Mountains, from Sugar hill, ' .

36, Franconia Mountains, from Thornton, .

37, Outline of Moosilauke, from Warren,

38, Outline of Moosilauke, from Wachipaucha pond,

39, Lake Winnipiseogee, from Center Harbor,

40, Map of Warren, ....

41, Georgianna falls, Lincoln,

42, View on the Upper Magalloway,

43, Ripley's falls,

Triangulation of New Hampshire, .
New Hampshire state seal,

44, White Mountains, from Berlin bridge,

45, Old Man of the Mountains, .

46, Eulophus semideae,

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Fig

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47, Encyrtus Montinus, ....

. 48, Note of Nemobius vittatus,
. 49, Note of (Ecanthus niveus by day, .

50, Note of (Ecanthus niveus by night,

51, Note of Phaneroptera curvicauda by day,

52, Note of Phaneroptera curvicauda by night,

53, Note of Conocephalus ensiger,

54, Note of Orchelimum vulgare,

55, Note of Chloealtis conspersa in the sun,

56, Note of Chloealtis conspersa in the shade,

57, Note of Stenobothrus curtipennis, .

58, Note of Arcyptera gracilis,

59, Note of Trimerotropis verruculata,

60, Mt. Madison, from Lead Mine bridge, .

61, Squam lake and Mt. Chocorua,

62, Section from Northumberland falls to Pilot mountain,

63, White Mountain range, from Jefferson hill,

64, White Mountains, from the Glen, .

65, Travelling on snow-shoes,

66, Franconia Mountains, from Campton,

67, Madison and Washington, from Shelburne,

68, Mt. Hayes,

69, Mt. Madison, as seen over King's ravine,

70, Peabody river and Mt. Washington,

71, View across the ravine south of Mt. Adams,

72, Welch mountain, from Campton, .

73, Lafayette range, from the Flume house,

74, The Profile rock,

75, Changes of the Profile, ....

76, The Sentinel, .....

77, White Mountain range, from Milan,

78, Mts. Adams and Madison, from near Randolph hill,

79, Washington, Clay, and Jefferson, from Adams,

80, Washington range, from Carroll, .

81, Ravine in Mt. Adams, from Randolph hill, .

82, Head-wall of King's ravine, ....

83, Gateway of King's ravine, ....

84, Cliffs in King's ravine, .....

85, Adams and Madison, from the old Glen path,

86, Tuckerman's ravine and Mt. Washington,

87, Snow-arch in Tuckerman's ravine in August, .
VOL. I. II

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Fig. 88, Androscoggin valley, from Peaked hill, Gilead, Me.,
Fig. 89, Silver cascade in the Notch, .....

Fig. 90, Cuba falls, Orford, ......

Fig. 91, Frost feathers, .......

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS NOT PRINTED WITH THE

TEXT.

Heliotypes from Nature.

Frontispiece, Ledges fractured by host, Mt. Washington.

White Mountain Notch, from the Crawford house,

Mt. Washington Railway, engine on Jacob's Ladder, .

View of the Carter range and Bourne monument in winter,

Tip-top house, frosted shrubs, Winnipiseogee lake from Mt. Washin

the anemometer, .
Frost-feathers and snow-ice,
Crystal cascade, ....
Mt. Crawford, from the Willey slide,
Mt. Pleasant and Wilkes's ledge,
Emerald pool, ....
Jackson's falls, ....
Diana's Bath, ....
Walker's falls and Beecher's cascade,
Berlin falls, ....

Mt. Washington range, from Fabyan turnpike,

White-horse ledge,

Mt. Washington summit, from the south-east,

White Mountain Notch, from Mt. Willard, and Willey

Glen Ellis falls, ....

Dixville Notch, ....

Percy peaks, Stratford,

house,

gton

and

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Heliotype Copies of Drawings.

Page.
212

White Mountains, from Berlin,

Insects of New Hampshire, 3S0

Three Plates illustrating Diatomaceas Albert-types, 500

Carrigain Notch, 596

Facsimile of Gen. Field's original sketch of the "Old Man of the Mountains," 606

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Electrotypes and Relief plates

The morning after the Willey slide, .....

Isogonic lines for 1874, .......

Connecticut River below Ledyard bridge, Hanover,
Alpine and sub-alpinc districts in the White Mountains,
Ice currents in the Glacier Period,

Maps.

Chart I, Yearly isothermal lines, .

Chart II, Isochimenal and isotheral lines,

Chart III, Mean annual rain-fall,

Natural topographical districts, .

Hydrographic basins, ....

Distribution of insects,

Distribution of trees, ....

No. 1, The first dry land in New Hampshire,

2, New Hampshire at the close of the Atlantic period,

3, New Hampshire in the Labrador period, .

4, New Hampshire at the close of the Huronian period,

5, New Hampshire after the Coiis period,

6, New Hampshire in the Helderberg period,
Agricultural map of New Hampshire, .....
Boundary between the Canadian and Alleghanian districts,
The extent of the existing forests,

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76

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338
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171

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CHARTS IN THE ATLAS ILLUSTRATING VOLUME I.

1. Facsimile, reduced, of Holland's Map of New Hampshire.

2. Facsimile, half the natural size, of Carrigain's Map of New Hampshire.

3. Profiles of the White Mountains, as seen from Mt. Pequawket, Mt. Trafton, Cor-

nish, Me., and Pleasant mountain, Me.

4. Profiles of mountains seen from Mt. Chocorua.

5. Profiles of mountains seen from Tremont.

6. Profiles of mountains seen from Mt. Carrigain.

7. Profiles seen from Bill Merrill, Caribou, and Ephraim mountains in Maine.

8. Panorama visible from the summit of Mt. Washington.

9. The White Mountains, in relief.
10. Map showing contour lines.

ART I.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

,:>y^k_

MTS. MADISON AND WASHINGTON FROM SHELBURNE.

CHAPTER I.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEYS IN NEW HAMPSHIRE.

i5j|[tHE first public notice of the importance of examining the mineral
<J% resources of New Hampshire which I can find is contained in a
message of His Excellency Levi Woodbury, governor, to the legislature,
in June, 1823. He recommended the institution of an agricultural sur-
vey, with a view to the chemical analysis of the various kinds of soils.
In support of this proposal he quoted the following passage from the
constitution of the state : " It shall be the duty of legislators and magis-
trates, at all future periods of this government, to cherish the interests of
literature and the sciences." It also inculcates "the promotion of agri-
culture, the arts, sciences, commerce, trades, manufactures, and the natu-
ral history of the country." Had this recommendation been adopted,
New Hampshire would have been the first of the United States to inau-
gurate a scientific survey of its mineral resources.

4 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

About 1837 or 1838, His Excellency Isaac Hill, governor, urged the
propriety of authorizing a geological and mineralogical survey, with a
view to the advancement of agriculture and the arts. This was the
epoch when most of the states had either inaugurated or were consider-
ing the propriety of establishing geological surveys. Massachusetts had
recently so successfully completed a triennial survey of her territory, under
the superintendence of my honored father, the late Professor Edward
Hitchcock, that the utility of such explorations was well appreciated. In
1839, His Excellency John Page, governor, advocated a survey of New
Hampshire with such success that the legislature passed the following
act in reference to it :

AN ACT to provide for the geological and mineralogical survey of the state.

Section i . Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Represoitatives in General
Court convened, That the governor of this state is hereby authorized and required, as
soon as may be after the passage of this act, to appoint a state geologist, who shall be
a person of competent scientific and practical knowledge of the sciences of geology
and mineralogy ; and the said state geologist shall, by and with the consent of the
governor and council, appoint one suitable person to assist him in the discharge of his
duties, who shall be a skilful analytical and experimental chemist.

Sec 2. And be it further enacted, That it shall be the duty of the said state geolo-
gist and his said assistant, as soon as may be practicable after their appointment, to
commence and carry on, with as much expedition and dispatch as may be consistent
with minuteness and accuracy, a thorough geological and mineralogical survey of this
state, with a view to determine the order, succession, arrangement, relative position,
dip or inclination, and comparative magnitude of the several strata or geological forma-
tions within this state, and to discover and examine all beds or deposits of ore, coal,
clay, marls, and such other mineral substances as may be useful or valuable, and to
perform such other duties as may be necessary to make a full and complete geological
and mineralogical survey of the state.

Sec 3. And be it further enacted, That it shall be the duty of the said assistant to
make full and complete examinations, assays, and analyses of all such rocks, ores, soils,
or other substances as may be submitted to him by the state geologist for that purpose,
and to furnish him with a detailed and complete account of the results so obtained.

Sec 4. And be it further enacted, That it shall be the duty of the said state geolo-
gist, on or before the first day of June in each and every year during the time necessa-
rily occupied by said survey, to make an annual report of the progress of said survey,
accompanied with such maps, drawings, and specimens as may be necessary and proper

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

to exemplify and elucidate the same, to the secretary of state, who shall lay such report
before the legislature.

Sec. 5. And be it furtJicr enacted, That it shall be the duty of the said state geolo-
gist to cause to be represented on the map of the state, by colors and other appropriate
means, the various areas occupied by the different geological formations in the state,
and to mark thereon the localities of the respective beds or deposits of the various min-
eral substances discovered ; and, on the completion of the survey, to compile a memoir
of the geology and mineralogy of the state, comprising a complete account of the
leading subjects and discoveries which have been embraced in the survey.

Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That it shall also be the duty of the said state
geologist to forward to the secretary of state, from time to time during the progress of
such survey, such specimens of the rocks, ores, coals, soils, fossils, and other mineral
substances discovered and examined, as may be proper and necessary to form a com-
plete cabinet collection of specimens of geology and mineralogy of the state ; and the
said secretary shall cause the same to be deposited in proper order in some convenient
room in the state capitol, there to be preserved for public inspection.

Sec. 7. And be it further enacted, That for the purpose of carrying into effect the
provisions of this act, the sum of two thousand dollars is hereby annually appropriated
for the term of three years, to be expended under the direction of the governor : pro-
vided, however, that the salaries of the said state geologist and his assistant shall not
commence until they have entered upon the execution of their duties, and, upon the
completion of said survey and of the duties connected therewith, they shall wholly
cease and determine.

MOSES NORRIS, Jr.,
Speaker of the House of Representatives.

Approved June 24, 1839.

JOHN PAGE,

Governor

JAMES McK. WILKINS,

President of the Senate.

In accordance with the provisions of this act, Dr. Charles T. Jackson,
of Boston, was appointed State Geologist September 10, 1839, an< ^ en ~
tered upon the duties of the office June 1, 1840. He devoted the prin-
cipal part of three years to his researches. It was understood and
agreed between the parties that the surveyor should devote four months
to the researches required in the field, and that four months should be
spent in the analysis of the minerals obtained ; but, as the laboratory
work proved more difficult and extensive than was at first apprehended,
nearly the whole remaining four months of the year were occupied in the

6 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

requisite examinations. Additional appropriations were made in subse-
quent years, so that the total cost of the first survey amounted to $9,000,
independently of the expense of publication.

Dr. Jackson employed assistants, whose names and time of service
appear to have been as follows : J. D. Whitney, appointed December 7,

1840, and served during that winter; M. B.Williams, appointed June,

1841, and served during the summer of that year; W. F. Channing,
appointed June 7, 1842, and served during the summer of that year
Eben Baker served in the autumn and winter of 1842 ; John Chandler
served in the winter of 1842. Their services are said to have been gra-
tuitous, the survey paying only the necessary travelling expenses. Some
of these gentlemen performed field work other than has been specified,
which service will be noted presently.

Four volumes and pamphlets appear to have been published, contain-
ing an account of these researches, as follows :

First Annual Report on the Geology of the State of New Hampshire. By Charles
T. Jackson, State Geologist. 8vo, 164 pp. Concord: Barton & Carroll, State
Printers, 1841.

Second Annual Report on the Geology of the State of New Hampshire. By Charles
T. Jackson, State Geologist. 8vo, 8 pp. 1842. Concord: State Printers.

Final Report on the Geology and Mineralogy of the State of New Hampshire, with
Contributions towards the Improvement of Agriculture and Metallurgy. By C. T.
Jackson, m. d. 4to, 384 pp., 11 plates. Concord, 1844. Carroll & Baker, State
Printers.

I find, also, in various quarters, reference to another volume published
in the following year, probably at the author's expense.

Vieivs and Maps of Final Report. Reprinted. 410, 20 pp., 8 plates. Boston,
1S45.

The Final Report is made up of the following parts :

Reprint of two Annual, with the Third Annual Report, . . . 136 pages.

Preliminary Remarks on the General Science of Geology, ... 28 pages.

Laws and Official Documents Relative to Survey, 8 pages.

Economical Geology, 72 pages.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

Agricultural Geology and Chemistry, 39 pages.

Appendix to Geology, 4 pages.

Barometrical Tables, 35 pages.

Appendix to Agricultural Geology and Chemistry, 45 pages.

Glossary, Index, and Errata 11 pages.

In the first annual report is described the method of proceeding with
the explorations. Knowing that the strata pursue a general north-east
course, Dr. Jackson proposed to cross them several times at right angles,
and also along their line of strike, or a north-east course. These lines of
explorations would divide the territory into triangular areas whose boun-
daries would be known, and various excursions across them would make
the knowledge of each tract more or less accurate. The cross sections
described are from Portsmouth to Claremont through Concord ; from Con-
cord to Wakefield ; from Wakefield to Haverhill, all measured by Messrs.
Whitney and Williams. Dr. Jackson measured another, from Concord to
Winchester, traversing outside of the line the towns of Amherst, Peter-
borough, Dublin, Keene, and Brattleborough. Messrs. Whitney and
Williams also travelled to the northern corner of the state as far as
Mt. Carmel ; and this section is connected with a longitudinal section
along Connecticut river, measured by Dr. Jackson from Haverhill to
Northfield, Mass. The field work closed after a tour to the White Moun-
tains, including Jackson, Eaton, and Mt. Gunstock.

The pamphlet report of the first year's work contains remarks upon
economical geology and agriculture, but does not exhibit any illustrations
of the sections. Those were reserved for the quarto volume, and consist
of the ones enumerated as measured by Whitney and Williams, and the
longitudinal one along Connecticut river as far as Mt. Carmel (Camel's
Rump). The former are much superior in artistic execution to the latter.
Excepting one theoretical section and the geological map, the material
for the plates seems to have been entirely obtained from the results of
this year's explorations.

Second Years Work. The second year's explorations commenced at
Nashua. A party of assistants explored the southern range of towns
between Nashua and Connecticut river ; but they do not seem to have

8 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

furnished any facts for the text. Dr. Jackson himself took the opposite
direction, exploring between Nashua and Portsmouth. From thence he
travelled to Madison (then a part of Eaton), Mt. Chocorua (Williams and
Charming), Jackson, Randolph, Lancaster, Shelburne, back to Lancaster
and Dixville notch. Next he measured a section through Vermont, from
Lancaster to Lake Champlain. The facts derived from this line of sur-
vey, as well as on a return line farther south, are generalized in a section,
the substance of which I have reproduced in Fig. I. Meanwhile, Messrs.
Channing and E. E. Hale examined the northern frontier, or the Canadian
borders of New Hampshire and Vermont. The rest of the year's field-
work consisted of explorations in Littleton, Franconia, Landaff, Orford,
Lyme, Canaan, Grafton, Amherst, and a hasty trip from Amherst to
Keene.

Third Years Work. The third report states that the towns which had
not been previously visited were examined as far as practicable. Those
mentioned are Epsom, Pittsfield, Barnstead, Strafford, Temple, Richmond,
Winchester, Hinsdale, Guilford, Vt, Warren, Springfield, Enfield, Canaan,
Gilmanton, Sandwich, Jackson, Mt. Crawford, Dalton, Warren, down
Connecticut river to Charlestown, Unity, and an excursion to Mt. Wash-
ington from Jefferson, by Messrs. Channing and Hale. This year's report
closes with a fuller sketch of the previous year's work of measuring sec-
tions across Vermont.

Building Materials, Metallurgy, etc.

The economical part of the report describes granite, soapstone, slate,
quartz, limestone, scythe-stones, beryl, garnet, infusorial silica, ochres for
paints, plumbago, pyrites, and some other minerals. It is quite full in
metallurgical statements respecting iron, zinc, copper, lead, tin, silver,
gold, molybdenum, manganese, and arsenic. Many original chemical
analyses are given in connection with these economical and metallurgical
descriptions.

The agricultural portion is divided into five parts : I. The origin and
distribution of soils. 2. Nature and origin of the organic and saline
ingredients of soils. 3. Chemical constitution of plants. 4. What ingre-

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 9

clients are taken from the soil by crops. 5. Best methods of restoring
fertility to exhausted soils, and of improving those that are infertile. It
concludes with descriptions of the methods of conducting agricultural
operations by several eminent gentlemen, as at the Derby farm on Cow
island, Winnipiseogee lake ; the Shaker farm, in Canterbury ; Levi Bart-
lett's farm, in Warner ; David Stiles' s farm, in Lyndeborough ; Judge
Hayes's farm, in South Berwick, Maine, and others.

The barometrical observations are incomplete, and in a few cases the
altitudes have been calculated from them. All that are of value I have
had reduced, and given in a list of heights in a subsequent chapter.

The appendix to agricultural geology contains a large number of soil
analyses, mostly original.

Geological Map.

The state authorities did not think it important to color the geological
map attached to Jackson's report. Hence it has become difficult to un-
derstand many things which otherwise might have been evident. Carri-
gain's map seems to have been the topographical basis, with, no doubt,
many corrections of town boundaries and various minute points, though
the mountains are not reproduced. The scale is exactly half that of
Carrigain's. The geological distinctions are the following : 1. Granite,
sienite and gneiss. 2. Mica slate. 3. Hornblende rock. 4. Argilla-
ceous slate. 5. Drift. 6. Alluvium. There are numerous symbols to
denote the location of quartz rock, trap, limestone, talc and soapstone,
peat, iron, lead, zinc, tin, copper, pyrites, silver, gold, titanium, titanic
iron, plumbago, beryl, mica, manganese, arsenic, and molybdenum. Other
symbols indicated the place where mines or quarries were worked, the
dip and direction of strata, and anticlinal axes.

Jackson's Theory of Geological Structure.

These reports and map being chiefly descriptive of mineral localities,
it is difficult to deduce from them a very satisfactory notion of strati-
graphical structure. In general, he seems to have regarded the rocks of
New Hampshire as " Primary," or the oldest to be met with between
vol. 1. 2.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

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Nova Scotia and Pennsylvania. His
ideal section represents the New
Hampshire rocks as granite at the
White Mountain centre, with gneiss
upon both sides, dipping on the east
towards Maine, and on the west
towards Vermont. The schistose
rocks adjacent to the gneiss in
Maine and Vermont are called " Cam-
brian." The Green Mountains of
Vermont are made out to be an
immense stratum of quartz rock, dip-
ping westerly. These Cambrian stra-
ta in their turn are flanked on their
3 outer sides by Silurian, and these in
their turn by Carboniferous rocks, in
the extremes of Nova Scotia and
Pennsylvania.

Not to be misunderstood, I have

H
U
W

I reproduced here Dr. Jackson's ideal
< section. I shall attempt hereafter

to point out that in this idea there
is an important element of truth,
while many of the details are incor-
rect. It is true, for instance, that
in the White Mountain neighbor-
hood the older rocks make their
appearance. This view is derived
from the study of the formations in
the field, and is at variance with
the prevalent opinions of Amer-
ican geologists, as held in 1868,
when our explorations commenced.
The quotation given in Chapter 1 1
shows that our first explorations
about Lisbon led to the conclusion

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. I I

that the White Mountain series were older than those in the Aramo-
noosuc and Connecticut valleys. In the year following, 1870, Dr. T.
Sterry Hunt published a letter suggesting whether he had not been at
fault heretofore in calling the White Mountain rocks Paleozoic. In 1871
he proposed to call them pre-Cambrian *

Dr. Jackson's section is wrong in such details as these. The granite
does not constitute the central axis of the White Mountains ; the strata
are not regular in their dips upon both sides of the axis, there being
overturns as well as repetitions of older formations. The Green Moun-
tains are not made up in the mass, nor in any part, of quartz rock in the
position indicated, and the term Cambrian is misapplied.

Territorially, Dr. Jackson's oldest division is made to occupy the prin-
cipal part of the state. The most northern locality specified is at Berlin.
It occupies the greater portion of the breadth of the state in the latitude
of Bristol. South of this line there are only isolated granitic patches
west of the Merrimack river, while a broad band of it extends nearly as
far as Concord on the east side.

The mica slate formation occupies most of the territory south of the
latitude of Franklin, passes up to Jackson on the east and to Columbia on
the west side of the first and fundamental group. There is also a little
represented as lying upon Mt. Washington.

The third division " hornblende rock " is very limited, appearing
only in Hanover, Wakefield, and Acworth. The fourth " clay slate "
appears along Connecticut river, in Hinsdale, Chesterfield, Dalton, and
Lancaster ; on the east side of Mt. Washington ; along Salmon river,
in Rochester, Somersworth, Newington, Portsmouth, and also Rye.

" Drift " is shown along the Merrimack river, in Hudson, Litchfield,
Pembroke, Northfield, Holderness, and Woodstock. It seems to include
some extensive sandy plains properly belonging to the next, division.
"Alluvium" appears in the same valley in Concord, and New Hampton,
in the bend opposite Bristol village ; also on the Connecticut, in Hins-
dale, Westmoreland, Piermont, Haverhill, and Lancaster. The localities
of minerals and ores need not be enumerated.

* Amer. Jour. Sci. II, Vol. L, p. 83. Presidential Address before American Association for the Advance
mtnt of Science, at Indianapolis, 1871.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Museum. I understand Dr. Jackson left a collection of rocks and
minerals at Concord to illustrate his explorations. As they were entirely-
destroyed by fire a few years since, I have no means of ascertaining what
their value may have been.

GRANITE LEDGE IN BARTLETT.

CHAPTER II.

HISTORY OF THE PRESENT GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

T the June session of the legislature in 1868, the following statute
was enacted, as taken from Chapter III, Laws of 1868:

AN ACT to provide for the geological and mineralogical survey of the state.

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives in General Court convened:

Section i. That the governor of this state, by and with the advice of the honorable
council, is hereby required and authorized, as soon as may be after the passage of this
act, to appoint a state geologist, who shall be a person of competent scientific and
practical knowledge of the sciences of geology and mineralogy ; and said state geolo-
gist shall have power to appoint such suitable person or persons as he may deem neces-
sary to aid him in carrying out the purposes of this act.

Sec. 2. It shall be the duty of said state geologist, as soon as may be practicable
after his appointment, to commence and carry on, with as much expedition and dispatch
as may be consistent with minuteness and accuracy, a thorough geological and mine-
ralogical survey of this state, with a view to discover and examine all beds or deposits
of ore, coal, clay, marls, and such other mineral substances as may be useful or valua-
ble, and to perform such other duties as may be necessary to complete such survey.

Sec. 3. It shall be the further duty of said state geologist to make a brief annual
report of his progress to the secretary of state, who shall submit the same to the legis-
lature, and shall forward from time to time such specimens of mineral substances as may
be proper and necessary to form a complete cabinet collection of specimens of the
geology and mineralogy of the state, as follows, viz. : One complete set to the secre-
tary of state, for preservation at the capitol of the state, which shall be so classified
and arranged as to be accessible to all interested in the mineral capacity of the state,
and one complete set to the museum of the agricultural college, to be used in the
instruction of the young men who may resort there for an agricultural education.

14 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Sec. 4. Whenever said survey shall be completed, a report of the same, accompa-
nied by such maps and drawings as may be necessary to elucidate and exemplify the
same, shall be published under the direction of said state geologist.

Sec. 5. That, for the purpose of carrying into effect the provisions of this act, the
sum of thirty-five hundred dollars ($3,500) is hereby annually appropriated, to be
expended under the direction of the governor and council.

Sec. 6. This act shall take effect from its passage.

[Approved July 3, 1868.]

Official Publications.

First Annual Report upon the Geology and Mineralogy of the State of New Hamp-
shire. By C. H. Hitchcock, State Geologist. 121110, 36 pp., 1 map. Manchester:
John B. Clarke, State Printer, 1869.

Second Annual Report upon the Geology and Mineralogy of the State of New Hamp-
shire. By the same. 8vo, yj pp., 1 map. Manchester: JohnB. Clarke, State Printer,
1870.

Report of the Geological Survey of the State of New Hampshire, showing its pro-
gress during the year 1870. By the same. 8vo, 82 pp. Nashua: Orren C. Moore,
State Printer, 1871.

Report of the Geological Survey of the State of New Ha7iipshire, showing its pro-
gress during the year 1871. By the same. 8vo, 56 pp., 1 map. Nashua: Orren C.
Moore, State Printer, 1872.

Report of the Geological Survey of the State of New Hampshire, showing its pro-
gress during the year 1872. By the same. Svo, 15 pp., with heliotype map. Nashua:
Orren C. Moore, State Printer, 1873.

Mt. Washington in Winter, or the experiences of a scientific expedition upon the
highest mountain in New England 1870-71. 121110, 363 pp. Boston: Chick &
Andrews, 1871.

Besides these, there have been a few papers read by the state geologist
before scientific associations, and subsequently published, relating to New
Hampshire geology, unfolding more fully than is possible in the annual
reports our ideas of the stratigraphical structure of the state. In fact,
the act specially forbids the presentation of observations at great length,
and therefore we have felt constrained to make the reports very brief. Our
investigations have led to the adoption of new views respecting the geolog-
ical features of New Hampshire, which seem of considerable importance.
They will be unfolded in detail in the volumes now in course of prepara-
tion ; and we must be content at the outset to give a short sketch of the
operations of the survey, as set forth in the annual reports of progress,

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 1 5

partly to trace the rise of the doctrines adopted after much reflection,
and then present the various physical features which lie at the base of
sound geological reasoning.

New Hampshire, in her geographical position and topographical con-
tour-features combined, is unlike any other portion of our land ; and,
therefore, it is appropriate to state at the outset what there is peculiar
about her topography, climate, distribution of animal and plant life,
scenery, variation of the magnetic needle, and other points in physical
geography. These involve a history of the artificial boundaries of the
state, notices of maps that have been published, a brief review of scientific
explorations among the White Mountains, a sketch of the theories relat-
ing to the elevation of mountains, earthquakes, and the conclusions that
we have now attained respecting the physical history of the state, or an
account of our territorial limits in the several periods of geological time.
This chapter might be styled an epitome of the geology of New Hamp-
shire.

The First Three Months of Labor.

The first annual report presents a sketch of the labors of three months
in the field, and is not, properly speaking, an annual report. On the eighth
of September, 1868, I had the honor to receive from His Excellency
Walter Harriman, governor, the notice of my appointment as state geolo-
gist. Though almost too late in the season to commence work, I thought
something might be done, and began the examination of the Amrao-
noosuc gold field. On the ninth of September I started for Lisbon,
stopping on the way at Hanover to arrange for an office and storage
apartment for specimens. As a part of our work, invitations were issued
through all the newspapers of the state, to persons interested in minerals,
to communicate information and forward specimens of interesting and
valuable substances for examination. About eighty answers have been
received to this appeal, from first to last, communicating many facts of
great importance, as well as specimens. The great success of this circu-
lar has satisfied us that the community have been watching the progress
of our work with much interest ; and that those who have been living
among the rocks and hills of New Hampshire will not be satisfied with the

1 6 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

economical results of the survey, but are anxious to understand the causes
of the elevation of the mountains, of the immense foldings and erosions
of the solid ledges, the filling of the rock crevices with metallic ores,
and the formation of the soils.

As soon as possible our corps of observers was organized by the
appointment of George L. Vose of Paris, Me., and J. H. Huntington of
Norwich, Conn., as assistant geologists, and of Prof. E. W. Dimond of
Hanover, as chemist.

Unforeseen circumstances prevented either of the geologists from
entering the field till the spring of 1 869. It seemed best to give each of
them a special subject, or a definite area, to investigate. Accordingly the
White Mountain region was assigned to Mr. Vose, and the principal part
of Coos county to Mr. Huntington. Mr. Vose was expected to pay spe-
cial attention to the topography, and, in addition to the delineation of the
geological structure, to furnish the most accurate map of the mountain
region ever drawn.

Inasmuch as Professor Dimond has been continually occupied by other
matters, he has not been able to act as chemist for the survey at any
time. His place in this respect has been supplied by Professor Charles
A. Seely, of New York, and also, to a small extent, by Professor B. T.
Blanpied, of the New Hampshire College of Agriculture and the Me-
chanic Arts.

The third month's exploration was in May, 1869. Its beginning found
Messrs. Vose and Huntington, with myself, in the field, engaged in deter-
mining the limits of the gold field in the towns of Littleton, Lyman,
Lisbon, Bath, Monroe, Landaff, and Haverhill. There has been little
modification of the results attained at that time, save in greater precision ;
and no portion of our territory has received so much attention as this.

The report proceeds to give the history of the discovery of the gold in
this valley ; a full description of the Dodge gold mining property, with
assays ; a notice of other supposed auriferous openings, with an affirma-
tive answer to the question whether it will pay to mine for gold in New
Hampshire. All these points will be again stated, with additions.

In this pamphlet there appears a colored geological map of the most
interesting part of the gold field, in which, with the accompanying descrip-
tions, may be discerned the germ of our peculiar notions respecting the

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 1 7

structure of all New England. A portion of the map was enlarged, and
hung upon the wall of a room at the state house, near a case of speci-
mens, where those who were interested in the subject could judge of
the correctness of the conclusions.

The description states that "there are two general divisions upon the
map : first, the granitic and gneissic rocks, which appear to be older, and
consequently to underlie the formations of the second or Quebec gro?ip."
Explanation is then made of the term "Quebec group," and its use in the
sense in which it was proposed by Sir W. E. Logan stated to be "provi-
sional, and liable to amendment after further explorations shall have made
our knowledge more definite."

The historical importance of the description of the map leads me to
quote it:

A mere glance at the map and accompanying section suggests two conclusions :
First, there is an unusual expansion of the area occupied by the gold rocks north of
Haverhill, which contracts to some extent in the latitude of Littleton. The narrowest
part of the group can be seen by referring to the Vermont Geological Map, and notic-
ing the contracted band, not three miles wide, along Connecticut river. It is not over
four miles wide in any part of its course between Lebanon and Woodville.

Second, the rocks assume the form of a basin or synclinal axis.* To confirm this
view, appeal is made to the general arrangement of the several groups. In the centre
is the auriferous conglomerate, with some of the upper schists. These are inclosed by
a line of dolomite, not represented upon the map ; this by clay slate ; the slate by the
lower green schists which occupy the outer edge of the basin, and adjoin the gneissic
rocks of the White Mountains upon the east, and the calciferous mica schist or supposed
upper Silurian strata on the west in Vermont. Hence the strata in the centre of the
field, the conglomerate, slates, and upper schists lie at the summit of the series, and
were the latest formed. A few words about each sub-division.

i . Gneissic and Granitic. These rocks consist of gneiss passing into mica schist
and granite. They continue easterly from the gold-field past the White Mountains into
Maine. By way of geographical convenience, they may be called the White Mountain
series. The line of union is irregular, and the bordering rock is not uniform. In Lit-
tleton it is generally granitic ; in Lisbon, gneissic ; more quartzose in Haverhill. A
bed of limestone skirts the border in Lisbon, and its place seems to be taken by soap-
stone in North Haverhill.

2. Stanrolite Rock. Adjoining the gneiss, and apparently resting upon it, is a slate
or schist (according to locality) filled with crystals of the mineral stanrolite, called

* Shown also farther north. Geology of Vermont, p. 521.
VOL. I. 3

1 8 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

staurotide in the older mineralogies. Garnets are also present. This rock has not
been seen out of Lisbon and Landaff, and that which lies in Landaff is chiefly garnet-
iferous. More labor is required to fix the limits and proper relations of this rock. At
almost any outcrop good specimens of staurolite may be obtained in abundance.

3. Next are Argillaceous Schists, passing into clay slate. This rock differs from clay
slate farther west, and receives no color on the map to separate it from the next divi-
sion. A line drawn from the south branch of the Ammonoosuc in Lisbon to the
east line of Bath shows its western border. It may contain garnets and staurolite, and
carries quartz veins worthy of examination for gold.

4. Lower Schists. These belong to the lower part of the Quebec group. They are
chiefly a greenish, unctuous schist, sometimes massive, the same with that usually called
" talcose schist." As the unctuous character seems to be derived from the alumina
present, we shall often style them aluminous schists. Marked varieties occur over the
wide area representing this division, as hornblende and chlorite schist, greenish quartz-
ites, sandstones and conglomerates, white quartz, etc. Within it are beds of dolomite,
limestone, buhrstone, the copper belt, and veins of iron pyrites. It would seem as if
there were an anticlinal axis in the west part of the area of this group, followed by a
synclinal in the east.

5. Clay Slate. This rock is abundant in the central part of the series, and carries
the gold veins akin to the Dodge lead. That which lies in Bath is often grayish. Its
distribution is quite irregular, and there are several patches of it, apparently outliers,
in two of which are slate quarries. The dolomite next the conglomerate is frequently
imbedded in this dark slate. In the more northern part of the dolomite, the rock is
more schistose.

6. Auriferous Conglomerate. An immense number of facts of scientific interest in
regard to this curious belt have been obtained, but their publication must be deferred.
The rock is a clear quartz conglomerate, from ten to one hundred feet wide, extending
from the east part of Lyman into Bath. As it can be readily recognized, and resists
decomposition, it furnishes an excellent landmark by which one can discover the won-
derful foldings, overturns, and dislocations in the strata. Instead of following a straight
course, its line of outcrop is sharply tortuous, and a fault has often thrown the rock out
of its line, in one case a distance of eleven hundred feet. These variations are shown
in the large manuscript map spoken of above, and on the printed map, as well as the
scale will permit, by the red line. That this rock overlies the slate, is shown by the
general synclinal character of the country, and its encirclement by the clay slate which
both accommodates itself to the very tortuous course in Bath, and dips beneath it on
the east, south, and west sides.* That it overlies the lower schists seems proved by the
presence in it of pebbles of quartz containing chlorite, jasper, and buhrstone, all of
which have been observed exclusively in that member.

7. Upper Schists. These are partly very light colored, and partly quite siliceous as

* This view has been modified by later researches.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY.

well as unctuous. They bound the clay slate on the west side, near the Dodge mine ;
while near their eastern limit is the auriferous quartz vein described as the property
of the New Hampshire Gold Mining Company. The color and aspect of this group
change in proceeding southerly.
S. The Copper Belt.

Upon the map is a section from Bronson's lime-kiln to the Connecticut
river, near Stevens village, in Barnet. The dips and general arrangement
are the same with what will be described hereafter. Two faults are rep-
resented, whose extent, but not existence, may be somewhat modified in
future descriptions.

Copper Mines. Next, a considerable space is devoted to a description
of numerous copper veins, chiefly along Gardner's Mountain range. The
general conclusions then reached have been confirmed by subsequent
researches. Only the conclusions need be referred to in this sketch, as
the details will be given hereafter.

In brief, it may be said of the Gardner Mountain range of copper veins,
that they consist of schists charged with the sulphurets of iron and cop-
per, averaging less than five per cent, before concentration ; that they are
conveniently situated with respect to drainage and to water-power. As
several mines are contiguous, adits, mills, and tramways might be con-
structed for the mutual benefit of several proprietors, with a comparatively
small proportionate outlay for each. It was understood that some of these
proprietors had arranged for the concentration of the ores at the new mills
soon to be constructed in the west corner of Lisbon. The working of
these copper veins, if conducted with prudence and wisdom, will undoubt-
edly be remunerative ; and when the enterprise is fairly inaugurated, a
large number of workmen will be employed, and a new impetus given to
the industry of the whole community.

Miscellaneous Topics. Other topics treated of were the zinc or copper
mine at Warren ; the nature and extent of peat deposits ; an enumeration
of beds of limestone suitable for manufacture into quick-lime ; agricultural
deductions for the Coos region ; economical statistics and statements
about the museums. Great interest in the survey among the people was
also spoken of. This manifested itself very pleasantly in acts tending to

20 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

forward our researches. Some hotel proprietors refused to accept of
compensation for accommodation received ; others reduced the ordinary
rates for our benefit ; many occupants of private houses freely tendered
their hospitalities ; some have gone with us to point out localities of
interest ; and for six weeks so many carriages were placed at our disposal
that there was no occasion to hire a team. Every one with whom we
came in contact, from highest to lowest, expressed an interest in our
work, and no one, to our knowledge, spoke of it disparagingly. These
many favors greatly stimulated us in our work. Acknowledgment was
also made of the important aid furnished by the newspapers. They
promptly circulated our original appeal for aid, and have always been
ready to help us subsequently.

The authorities of Dartmouth college generously provided rooms to
serve as an office and working apartment, as well as for the exhibition
and storage of specimens, till a building could be erected for their accom-
modation. Lastly, a few names of individuals were given who had ten-
dered us special courtesies.

Second Annual Report.

This continues the history from June I, 1869, for one year. It com-
mences with statements respecting the importance of a new topograph-
ical map of the state, that might serve for the proper delineation of the
geological boundaries. One of the first inquiries made at the beginning of
the New Hampshire explorations, related to the character of the maps in
use, that I might learn with how great precision the position and courses
of the several mineral veins and rock deposits could be delineated. I
found that a map had been issued, under the authority of the state, in 18 16,
by Philip Carrigain. This seems to have been a very fair delineation of
the natural and civil boundaries at the time of its appearance. But there
are serious errors in it of latitude and longitude. Nearly half the boun-
dary lines have since been altered, whether of the towns, or the limits
between adjoining territories; and, moreover, the plates are not to be
found. Then the whole face of the country has been altered since 18 16;
large tracts of forest have been reclaimed and occupied by village sites ;
numerous roads and railroads have been constructed, so that Carrigain's
map does not meet the necessities of either practical or scientific pur-

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 2 1

poses at the present day. There have been smaller maps also constructed,
most of which are inferior to Carrigain's for accuracy, as they certainly
are in the style of execution.

Besides this, other map material exists. There are, first, the county
maps, prepared chiefly by Prof. H. F. Walling, at an expense of over
$20,000. These present the roads with great accuracy, and likewise the
names of the owners of every house at the time of the surveys. Being
on a large scale, and published mostly about i860, the boundaries and
names agree essentially with what they are at present, and the surveys
were quite accurate. Secondly, a considerable triangulation has been
effected by the United States Coast Survey over fully a third part of the
state. By means of their triangles a score or more points are definitely
fixed in respect to latitude and longitude, and that as correctly as is pos-
sible, through the unequalled accuracy of the Coast Survey engineers.
Thirdly, there exists a very careful delineation of the boundary between
New Hampshire and Canada, prepared in 1844, under the direction of the
governments of the United States of America and Great Britain, Colonel
Graham being the commissioner on the part of the United States. Lastly,
there are the reports of commissioners concerning the boundaries between
New Hampshire and Maine, between New Hampshire and Massachusetts,
and there are two local maps of the White Mountain region, all of which
are accessible.

On further inquiry it was ascertained that in 1853 the legislature
appointed a commissioner to report upon the expediency of preparing a
new topographical map of the state. The report was presented the fol-
lowing year by Prof. John S. Woodman, of Hanover, who briefly recited
the errors in Carrigain's and other maps, and carefully estimated the
expense of preparing a new draft based upon the government work just
alluded to, and upon new surveys. He showed that such a map would
involve an expense of thirty or forty thousand dollars. No action was
taken upon this report by the legislature.

It appeared to me that the chief part of the surveys requisite for the
proper delineation of a new map of the state had been made since 1854,
so that by a careful collation of the abundant material, coupled with some
additional triangulation and river surveys, a new map might be prepared,
sufficiently accurate for all practical purposes, which would require a very

22 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

small appropriation compared with the sum estimated by the commis-
sioner in 1854. A letter was accordingly addressed to His Excellency
the Governor, and the Honorable Council, in which the foregoing facts
were recited, and the proposal was made that, without asking for any
additional appropriations, the geologist would cause a new map of the
state, upon the scale of two and a half miles to the inch, to be prepared,
and that this work might be considered as involved in the act authorizing
the survey. The council approved of this proposition May 13, 1869; and
since that time measures have been taken to prepare the map, in connec-
tion with the other work.

Topographical Work Performed.

The most important topographical work performed this year is embodied
in a report by Prof. E. T. Ouimby, of Dartmouth college, most of which
is presented in the chapter upon topography.

Next should be mentioned the labors of Mr. Vose. He spent a few
weeks among the White Mountains, taking a large number of observa-
tions for the purpose of fixing the exact position of many of the high
mountain peaks. His observations serve to fix the latitudes and longi-
tudes of Mt. Passaconnaway, Waterville ; Mt. Pequawket, Chatham ; Mt.
Whiteface, Waterville ; and Mt. Chocorua, Albany. From Mts. Pequaw-
ket and Chocorua, Mr. Vose drew accurate sketches of all the mountains
as seen along the New Hampshire horizon. The instrument used was a
six-inch theodolite, kindly loaned for the purpose by the United States
Coast Survey. Mr. Vose also made observations upon the geology of
the region, which were mostly printed in the report for 1871. In the
month of August he resigned his position on the survey.

During all the seasons of field work our parties have been supplied
with county maps, and have carefully noted the changes or alterations
required for the perfection of the general map. These will be embodied
upon our large geological map. For the sake of determining the forma-
tions in the Ammonoosuc gold field with accuracy, we commenced during
this season a topographical survey of a few square miles of the most
valuable portion, upon the scale of five hundred feet to the inch. With
the aid of J. H. Huntington, A. C. Page of Center Harbor, and A. A.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 23

Woolson of Lisbon, two square miles of the territory were surveyed.
The intention was to set stakes at the corners of every block of five
hundred feet square, and thus to locate the formations with great
definiteness.

At the request of the commissioners appointed to consider the propri-
ety of establishing a survey of the water-power of New Hampshire, we
prepared a map of the state, upon the scale of ten miles to the inch,
showing by colors the areas drained respectively by the Connecticut,
Androscoggin, Saco, Piscataqua, and Merrimack rivers. It was compiled
from our data by Mr. Huntington. The map accompanied the report of
the hydrographic commissioners. A copy from the same plate, with
changes and additions, was presented with our second report, designed
to illustrate the distribution of the granite and the progress of our trian-
gulation, as well as some of the geological formations.

Measuring Heights.

In May, 1870, a trip was taken by Mr. Huntington to determine the
relative altitudes of the passes along the principal White Mountain range
between the Crawford house and Waterville. The snow had not entirely
disappeared, so that the expedition was of a very laborious character.
The results are given elsewhere.

A thorough knowledge of the general elevation of the land of the state
being very important, measures were taken early towards the obtaining
of exact altitudes in the interior. Upon examining various railroad
surveys, discrepancies appeared, so that they could not be relied upon.
Two lines of survey running lengthwise of the state were therefore
devised, one from Portsmouth (or Great bay) through Manchester, Con-
cord, and the Connecticut valley to Connecticut lake ; the other from
Lowell, Mass., to connect with the other survey at Lancaster. The
final conclusions appear in another chapter; but the work was com-
menced early in the second season. Messrs. Frank and H. D. Wood-
bridge, of Dartmouth college, obtained, by actual levelling much of the
way, facts which fixed the height of the barometer at the Shattuck obser-
vatory, in Hanover, at 60371 feet above mean tide-water. A few com-
putations were made, also, by a comparison of barometical observations
at the Shattuck observatory, and the top of Mt. Moosilauke.

24 physical geography.

Mountain Explorations.

During the second year, the Moosilauke winter exploration was carried
out by J. H. Huntington and Amos F. Clough. This is sketched, as fully
as needed for our purposes, in the chapter upon the history of explora-
tions among the White Mountains.

Possibly there may be space, in the chapters upon scenery, to quote
from Mr. Vose's report upon an ascent of Mt. Carrigain, made during
this year.

Measuring Sections.

In a letter directed to Rev. Dr. Asa D. Smith, President of the New
Hampshire College of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, and printed in
his report for 1 869, I set forth my views as to the best method of exhib-
iting the specimens of rocks collected during our explorations. It was sug-
gested that these should be collected along lines about fifteen or twenty
miles apart, running east and west, and parallel to one another, amounting
to fourteen in number in all. These lines were called lines of section,
because it was proposed to show, in connection with the specimens, a
geological profile and section. This method of studying the geological
structure of the state readily commends itself to every mind.

We crossed the state eight times during this season in endeavoring to
measure these sections. The lines of section thus measured are,

I. From Lawrence, Mass., along the south border of the state, to Con-
necticut river.

II. From Seabrook to Chesterfield.

III. From Portsmouth to Walpole.

IV. From Great Falls to Charlestown.

V. From Milton to Cornish.

VI. From Effingham to Hanover.

VII. From Errol to Stratford.

VIII. From Atkinson and Gilmanton Academy grant to Stewartstown.
The last two were traversed by Mr. Huntington on foot, as they lie

chiefly in the unbroken forest. Two sets of specimens have been col-
lected along these routes.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 2$

Examination of Coos County.

One of the most laborious parts of our work accomplished this year
has been the exploration of about six hundred and seventy square miles
of territory, in the north part of Coos county, by Mr. Huntington. The
country is mostly unsettled, and consequently travelling is restricted to
the most primitive methods, and all supplies are carried on one's back.
The same is true of all specimens collected, which were at least a thousand
in number, from the forest region. But the information acquired has been
most important. As will be seen by the map, the line has been clearly
drawn between the White Mountain series of granitic or gneissic rocks,
and the dark slates and schists of newer formations. The latter are
sub-divided into eight different bands, and a county map has been col-
ored to show them. Two matters of economical interest have been
developed, the first, the existence of alluvial gold along Indian and Perry
streams ; and the second, the existence of large beds of serpentine north
of Carlisle's grant, a few miles south-west from the crown monument, at
the angle between New Hampshire, Maine, and the province of Quebec.
The latter is, of course, too remote to be available for the arts at present,
though the time is coming when it will be used. The gold is not unlike
that of Lyman, judging from the character of the underlying rocks, but
more closely resembles that mined a short distance over the line, where
J. H. Pope, member of parliament, of Cookshire, province of Quebec, has
been profitably extracting gold by sluices for several years. Mr. Hunt-
ington's specimens are quite large pieces of shot gold, of the same
purity with that obtained by milling in Lisbon. It is not improbable
that the gold can be profitably extracted both from the soil and the
rock near the extreme northern boundary; and the proprietors of the
large tracts of land there would do well to expend a few hundred dollars
in testing the value of these auriferous deposits.

Miscellaneous.

There are further remarks upon the agricultural character of lands
along Connecticut river; operations of the gold mining company in
Lyman and Lisbon ; notice of Mr. Vose's report ; the Carroll county lead
vol. i. 4

26 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

mine ; other mining properties, particularly beds of pyrites in Croydon,
Unity, Lebanon, etc. ; G. A. Wheelock's researches about Keene ; various
brief excursions ; and the map of Dalton.

It was stated in the first report that very material aid might be fur-
nished us in our explorations if the proprietors of large tracts of land
would aid us in tracing out the formations upon lands in which they feel
an interest. This appeal was immediately answered by J. B. Sumner,
Esq., of Dalton, who furnished the means for a careful survey of the
township of Dalton. The work was performed by Mr. Huntington, who
prepared a map of the township, on the scale of one hundred and six rods
to the inch, showing the several formations, as well as the courses of the
metallic veins and the location of mineral deposits. A copy of this was
sent to Mr. Sumner, with an explanation of the significance of the
several colors. The facts ascertained are all embodied in our general
geological map.

The New Map of the Second Year.

The map of the state spoken of above showed several geological fea-
tures, under the following headings: I. White Mountain, or gneissic
series. 2. Sienite group of Exeter and Dover. 3. Porphyritic gran-
ite. 4. Common granite. 5. Merrimack group. 6. Quebec group.
7. Coos group. 8. Calciferous mica schist. 9. Clay slates. The re-
marks made about them are here reproduced, in substance:

1. White Mountain or Gneissic Scries. In our report of last year this term was used
to indicate the general mass of gneissic and granitic rocks of the state, including desig-
nations three and four of the present map. It occupies four fifths of the area of the
state ; and it will be a leading object of our survey to discover the relations of the sev-
eral members of the group to one another. It may not be amiss to state that the clue
to the structure of the whole has probably been discovered, and that, by diligence and
discrimination, it can be completely followed out. The practical advantages of this
knowledge can hardly be overrated, since information will at once be afforded restrict-
ing the occurrence of valuable minerals to narrow areas, where the proper research will
develop them. I refer to such minerals as the soapstone of Francestown, the pyrites
of Sullivan county, the mica of Grafton, granites, limestone, feldspar, tin, lead, etc.

I am satisfied that the following are some of the subdivisions of this group, which
further explorations will enable us to define with precision: 1, normal gneiss; 2, fer-
ruginous gneiss; 3, granitic gneiss; 4, feldspathic mica schist; 5, andalusite gneiss;

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 2"]

6, chiastolite slates; 7, granite; 8, sienite ; 9, porphyritic granite; 10, quartzites ; 11,
limestones ; 12, soapstones. Little doubt remains as to the Eozoic or pre-Silurian age
of this entire series.

2. Sienite of Exeter and Dover. There appear to be sienitic rocks of probable Lau-
rentian age, equivalent to the Quincy sienitic group of Massachusetts, prominently
exposed along the Boston & Maine Railroad, between Massachusetts and Maine,
especially in the towns of Exeter and Dover. They form, apparently, an anticlinal
mass, overlaid by the Merrimack slates.

3. Porphyritic Granite. Common granite full of large crystals of feldspar, generally
from one half of one to two inches long, which give a checked appearance to the ledges.
Some portions of it have evidently been injected ; while the arrangement of the feld-
spathic crystals, in parallel lines, leads to the suspicion of stratification in other cases.
The area is probably very irregular.

4. Common Granite. The granite of New Hampshire seems to have originated at
five different periods. First are the (a) indigenous and (b) eruptive granites of the
White Mountain series ; second, the (V) indigenous granites of the Merrimack group,
in which none of the eruptive class have yet been seen ; third, the (d) indigenous and
(e) eruptive granites of the Cob's and calciferous mica schist groups.

5. Merrimack Group. This name was informally applied by my father to the mica
schists, slates, and quartzites contained in the valley of the Merrimack river, in Massa-
chusetts. They skirt the Exeter sienites in New Hampshire, lying in troughs, on the
flanks of an anticlinal. They probably belong to the earliest Silurian series.

6. Quebec Group. Lower Silurian, according to Sir William E. Logan, and largely
developed in northern Coos county, the Ammonoosuc gold field, and along the Connec-
ticut river, chiefly in Vermont, to Bellows Falls.

7. Coos Group. Under this appellation, for want of a better name, are included the
argillaceous schists, whetstone mica schists, grits, etc., of northern Cobs county, as
explored by Mr. Huntington, the similar and associated rocks in Barford, Hereford,
Auckland, etc., province of Quebec, and Essex county, Vermont, the quartzites, stau-
roiite rocks, micaceous schists, hornblende schists, perhaps gneiss, protogine, and other
rocks west of the White Mountain series and east of the Connecticut river, along the
whole of western New Hampshire, but excluding the calciferous mica schist (8) . The
unity of the series, its age, thickness, and relations to the Quebec group, (8)
remain to be defined. It appears clearly to overlie the White Mountain series uncon-
formably. The calciferous mica schist and the clay slate groups seem to be limited
outliers.

Acknowledgments.

The assistants of the second year were J. H. Huntington of Hanover, G. L. Vose of
Paris, Me., Prof. E. T. Quimby of Hanover, Prof. E. P. Barrows of Middletown, Conn.,
T. M. Blossom of New York city, A. C. Page of Center Harbor, E. R. H. Hodgman
of Mason, A. A. Woolson of Lisbon, and Prof. C. A. Secly of New York. The friends

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

who are specially mentioned as having aided the work were Hon. Samuel N. Bell of
Manchester, H. H. Harriman of Warner, Hon. Moses A. Hodgdon of Weare, John
J. Bell of Exeter, Prof. C. A. Young of Hanover, Dr. E. E. Phelps of Windsor, Vt.,
Geo. E. Jenks of Concord, Chase & Howe of the Winslow house, Wilmot, Daniel
Pecker of Raymond, William Little and John A. Riddle of Manchester, George
A. Wheelock of Keene, J. H. Pope, M. P., of Cookshire, P. O., F. C. Jacobs of Con-
necticut lake, C. P. Richardson of Mason Village, Prof. S. C. Chandler of East Mid-
dlebury, Vt., Trustees of Dartmouth college, American Geographical Society of New
York, Gyles Merrill of St. Albans, Vt., A. H. Perry of Lyndonville, Vt., George A.
Merrill of Rutland, Vt., O. T. Ruggles of Fitchburg, Mass., R. Stewart of Keene, J.
A. Dodge of Plymouth, G. E. Todd and H. E. Chamberlain of Concord, and George
Stark of Nashua.

The report closes with a notice of the progress made in erecting a
building at Hanover for the reception of one of the geological collections,
and a request that a place might be fitted up for the reception of the
other at Concord.

CASTELLATED RIDGE OF MT. JEFFERSON.

CHAPTER III,

HISTORY OF THE SURVEY Continued.

E now reach an epoch in the history of our explorations when it
may be more profitable to treat of the subjects of research each
by itself, than to speak of the yearly progress in each. The time had
arrived when we began to understand the structure of the White Moun-
tains, which knowledge proved to be the key to that of the rest of the
state. The field had been assigned to Mr. Vose originally ; but his resig-
nation left the place vacant, and it became the duty of the state geologist
to explore the territory in person. The special plan pursued in 1870
may be thus described.

This laborious field of research includes particularly the region about
thirty miles long and twelve or fifteen wide, bounded by Israel's, Moose,
Peabody, Ellis, and Saco rivers. This area is nearly an unbroken forest,
traversed only by the bridle-paths and roads required for the ascent of
Mt. Washington by summer visitors. The plan pursued was, to visit sys-
tematically every one of the numerous peaks and valleys composing this
area with the hammer and barometer. As the first result of our labors
in the district specified, a physical model of the mountainous region was
constructed, about five feet in length, on the scale of one hundred and
forty rods to the inch horizontally, and one thousand feet to three fourths
of an inch vertically. Contour lines were drawn for each five hundred
feet, and were made the basis for fashioning the mountains. With our

30 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

limited resources, much reliance was placed upon estimates of the loca-
tion of the contour lines, without actual measurement. Hence this model
is only an approximation to a correct representation, but is sufficiently
accurate to enable all interested in the study of the mountains to compre-
hend the relative altitudes and courses of the ranges, especially as they
stand related to the distribution of the formations.

After the exhibition of this model in public, information was furnished
that a model of the White Mountains had been fashioned in plaster, sev-
eral years since, by Rev. Dr. Thomas Hill, lately president of Harvard
college. This was upon a much smaller scale, about eighteen inches
square, and was built up upon the basis of Bond's Map of the White
Mountains, published in 1853. It includes the Franconia region, and all
the mountains as far south as Waterville and Conway. An inspection
of this representation shows great familiarity with the structure of the
mountains, and it is a matter of regret that its existence has been known
to so few persons. A copy of it has been presented to us by the author,
and is placed in the state museum at Hanover.

So numerous were the localities requiring visitation, that six of the
members of the class of 1871 of Dartmouth college, C. S. D., were in-
vited to assist in the work of exploration. These were B. W. Andrews,
W. B. Douglass, C. J. Johnson, J. F. Pratt, E. Thompson, and Frank
Woodbridge. Aid was also furnished by J. H. Huntington, Dr. Nathan
Barrows, and E. Hitchcock, Jr. We procured the necessary provisions
and other supplies, and lived among the mountains, in extempore camps,
till the various points had been explored and the required observations
made. Without so many assistants, the early completion of the model
would have been impossible ; and all who take pleasure in contemplating
the results are under obligations to these gentlemen for their very
arduous labors.

That it is very difficult to climb high mountains is a statement which
no one will deny. Most persons who visit our New Hampshire mountains
are well satisfied with their labors when a single peak has been ascended
on foot. They are willing to accept almost any theory that may be pro-
posed to explain their geological structure, because immense labor would
be required to disprove it. The task before us was the dissipation of
all false notions, and the discovery of the real stratigraphical structure

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 3 I

of the rocky masses, by careful induction. The whole party were ani-
mated with the desire to accomplish this object, and therefore visited
the almost inaccessible peaks and ravines, one after another, till all had
been explored. The actual exertion often put forth for procuring a single
specimen was greater than to pass over Mt. Washington on foot, by the
paths. Its location may have been three or four thousand feet above the
camp, and the country to be travelled was the original forest, never before
traversed except by hunters, full of underbrush, fallen trees, and at the
higher elevations consisting of the stiff dwarf spruces, through which trav-
elling is almost impossible. After overcoming the difficulties of threading
the forest and ascending the precipices, the rarified air of the upper re-
gions has made even slight exertions burdensome. We take great pleas-
ure, therefore, in pointing to the results of our labors, as they have been
acquired only through infinite toil ; and we feel sure that if our generali-
zations are not accepted, it will be a long time before any other party will
labor so hard as we have done to disprove our theories.

A sketch of the various opinions that have been entertained respecting
the age and structure of the White Mountains was presented at some
length in the report for 1870; also, further definitions respecting the Coos
group, and the manner in which the valley of the White Mountain notch
had been excavated. The conclusions expressed concerning the strati-
graphical structure have not been modified by subsequent explorations.
The following opinion is expressed as to the age of the series :

In fine, the White Mountain rocks are believed to belong to two great
systems, the Gneissic and the Coos group. The first are, for convenience,
called the White Mountain series ; and in the area of the model are vari-
ous imperfect gneisses, verging into mica schists, a few beds of genuine
gneiss, granitic gneiss, andalusite gneiss and granite, both bedded and in
veins. These rocks appear to underlie the Coos group, and are therefore
older. The presumption is that they are entirely Eozoic, though it is not
clear whether they are to be considered as the equivalent of the Lauren-
tian of Canada, or more nearly the age of the Cambrian of Great Britain,
as restricted by the government survey.

This White Mountain series has a great development in the middle and
southern parts of the state, perhaps embracing everything not included in
the Exeter, Merrimack, and Coos groups. Its satisfactory reference to

32 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

the Eozoic series will enable us to clear up the obscurities of New Hamp-
shire geology, and make the study of our strata as interesting as that of
the well-established fossiliferous groups in other parts of the country.

White Mountain Explorations in 1S71.

The most valuable of all our reports is that which details the operations
for 1 87 1. The conclusions stated had been foreshadowed by the results
of the previous years' explorations, but were rendered much more satis-
factory by our labors in the area lying between the Saco and Pemige-
wasset rivers, and north of Sandwich.

On the seventeenth of June, with the assistance of eleven gentlemen
from the graduating class at Dartmouth college, the exploration of the
Pemigewasset country was commenced, and continued uninterruptedly
for a month. These gentlemen kindly proffered their services without
charge, and deserve the thanks of the community for their exertions in
our behalf. Some have imagined the party as enjoying the luxuries of
the season in the cushioned seats of the well appointed hotels about the
mountains, with every want eagerly anticipated by dutiful attendants. On
the contrary, our houses were hastily extemporized sheds ; our beds, a few
boughs or ferns placed upon boards ; our food consisted of stale crackers
and preserved meats, save a rare taste of trout and berries gathered in
climbing mountains, and the luxury of an occasional basket of provisions
sent by kind friends at the Profile house ; and we were our own servants.
The party consisted of A. A. Abbott, M. O. Adams, A. M. Bacheler, R.
M. Carleton, C. H. Conant, G. E. Davis, H. C. Harrison, C. W. Hoitt,
Jonathan Smith, W. Upham, A. W. Waters. All these gentlemen con-
tributed something towards the accumulation of facts bearing upon the
important questions discussed in the first part of the report. Messrs.
Conant and Smith were so fortunate as to discover a new lake on the
north-west side of Haystack mountain, which we christened Haystack
lake. It is parallelogramic in shape, fifteen rods long and half as wide,
with rather shallow water, forming the head waters of Gale river, three
thousand seven hundred and eighty-seven feet above tide-water, as deter-
mined by the aneroid barometer. Messrs. Abbott and Bacheler suc-
ceeded in discovering a second lake, still larger, upon the east side of
Mt. Kinsman, named, as the other, after the mountain. Others of the

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 33

party measured the length of the profile of the "Old Man of the Moun-
tains," finding it to be thirty-six feet from chin to top of the head, the
face itself being twelve hundred feet above the lake beneath. Soon after
the disbanding of the first, a new party was formed, consisting of A. A.
Abbott, W. Flint, and W. Upham, with the aid of E. C. Atwood for a
short period. This second party remained, some of them, two months
longer, exploring the country as far south as Sandwich.

Description of the Map.

With the report there appeared a geological map embodying the results of all our ex-
plorations. The colors upon the map indicated the geographical relations of ten groups.
In the absence of precise knowledge, spaces were left uncolored in certain districts.
The topographical basis is the map of C. H. V. Cavis, prepared for Eastman's White
Mountain Guide, upon the scale of five miles to the inch, it being the most convenient
one accessible to us. On account of the difficulties in the way of exploring among the
mountains, which have already been described, this delineation can only be regarded
as a reconnoissance, especially as the true position of the rocks did not suggest itself
till late in the spring of 1872, when the field notes were being compared with specimens.
The areas will be briefly mentioned, and the most important conclusions dwelt upon
at length.

1. Porphyritic Gneiss. This is an ordinary gneiss, carrying numerous crystals of
orthoclase or potash-feldspar, from a quarter of one to two inches long. The longer
axes may be parallel to the strike, or arranged helter-skelter. It passes into granite
with the same porphyritic peculiarity of structure. Its most northern area lies along
the Ammonoosuc river in Bethlehem, Littleton, and Whitefield. Next, commencing
west of Haystack mountain, at some unknown point, is another range, which passes
southerly on the west flank of Profile mountain, and makes up the great mass of Kins-
man or Blue mountain ; thence passes southerly to Woodstock and Campton. It
crops out on the west side of Moosilauke how extensively has never been determined.
A spur from this appears at the Lake of the Clouds on Mt. Lafayette, and passes
southerly towards the Basin. It may occupy part of the uncolored area west of the
Lafayette range. Upon the other side of the Pemigewasset country, this formation
shows itself in the valley of Sawyer's river, on the south side of Mt. Carrigain. It is
there covered by compact feldspar. It reappears in Waterville, on Cascade brook,
Snow's mountain, Bald Knob, and upon other high mountains in Sandwich, whence it
passes out of the limits of the map. We suppose this to be the oldest formation
among the mountains. Geologists speak of a rock of this character as common in the
Laurentian, in various parts of North America and Europe.

2. Bethlehem Gneiss. The whole of Bethlehem is underlaid by a gneiss abounding
in a talcoid mineral, perhaps pinite. The orthoclase is abundant, usually pink or flesh

VOL. I. 5

34 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

colored, and mica is sparsely disseminated through the rock. It is usually granitic, so
much so that it has always been called granite heretofore. Its most remarkable feature
consists in the common east and west strike between Littleton and Cherry mountain.
In Whitefield, Mr. Huntington finds the rock tending more north-easterly. Lying be-
tween outcrops of porphyritic gneiss, the natural inference is that it is a synclinal, and
therefore newer, while the strike indicates a very great antiquity, judging from the same
phenomenon elsewhere. The dip is monoclinal, averaging 75 northerly, across Beth-
lehem, but anticlinal in Whitefield. If the anticlinal structure is persistent, evidence
may be afforded that this peculiar gneiss is older than No. 1. There is a limited out-
lier of this rock west of Haystack mountain, another north-west of Mt. Pemigewasset,
a third about Big Coolidge mountain in Franconia, and perhaps another south of the
east branch of the Pemigewasset. These limited outliers give the idea of a rock
newer than No. 1. The boulders scattered to the north of Lafayette, in Franconia
and Bethlehem, which Professor Agassiz regards as moraines of a local glacier push-
ing northerly, are composed of this rock.

3. C/iciss. The gneiss west of No. 1, in Franconia and Landaff, and also to a limited
extent east of the Labrador felsite on Tripyramid, is a common variety, and has not
yet been referred to any of the sub-divisions recognized elsewhere.

4. White Mountain or Andalusite Gneiss. This is the variety described in previous
reports as containing andalusite or staurolite. It occupies the great part of the White
Mountain area east of the Saco, making up the bulk of the highest peaks. It reap-
pears on equally extended a scale south of Mts. Pequawket, Chocorua, and Whiteface.
About Dr. Bemis 1 s residence, or the "Mt. Crawford house" of the map, this rock
seems to be isolated, being surrounded by granite. A little of it lies to the north of
the Labrador in Albany, and is not represented upon the map. Farther north it crops
out in Whitefield, and there is a range apparently from the west flank of Profile moun-
tain to Moosilauke. More is found in Thornton, and there is an extensive area of it
to the south-west, which is not designated upon the map. The presumption is that the
beryl-bearing gneiss east of the Pemigewasset, on the edge of Woodstock and Thorn-
ton, is the same rock which extends into Campton. The amount of andalusite in this
area is very small. The relative position of the andalusite gneiss remains to be
determined. It seems to be newer than Nos. 1 and 2, but its relations to the
granites and felsites are yet to be made out.

5. Common Granite. The type of this rock appears at the Basin, Pool, and Flume
in Franconia, and at Goodrich's falls in Jackson. The constituents are rather coarse,
never more than an inch, and usually one fourth of an inch long. The orthoclase is
commonly flesh-colored, and is the most abundant ingredient. The quartz is smoky,
translucent, and often roughly crystallized. The mica is the least abundant of the
three constituents, and is black. The joints passing through this rock are both hori-
zontal and vertical. This rock seems to form the basis of the whole Pemigewasset
country, and the areas left blank will most likely be found to consist of this same ma-
terial. The first area is that in Franconia, embracing the Profile and Cannon moun-

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 35

tains, besides the parts already specified. The mountains show a finer grained rock
than the valleys. Some of it seems to extend into the uncolored area between No. i
and the Lafayette range. This probably connects under Flume mountain with the
granites on the East Branch in Lincoln and Thornton. More appears near the forks
of the East Branch, Hancock mountain, and the ridge north, including the falls in
the valley of Mad river in Waterville, abundantly in the Swift River valley in Albany,
and about Conway, passing under Pequawket, and extending into the Green Hills. The
small area of Bald Face and Mt. Eastman in Chatham has a fine grain, and possible-
is of a different age.

The largest area of this rock upon the map extends from Jackson to Carroll. The
Saco valley above Rocky Branch is mostly excavated out of it. The excavation of the
White Mountain notch out of this granite was alluded to last year. The high range north
from Mt. Lowell to Mt. Willard is probably of this rock. East of the Saco the andalu-
site gneiss seems to have been cut by it, Mts. Crawford and Resolution being composed
of granite. Mt. Deception, and the country east of the old Fabyan house, are made up
of a different sort of a granite, whitish or grayish in color, with the feldspar in narrow
crystals, porphyritic in appearance. But the range from the north end of Mt. Tom to
the lower falls on the Ammonoosuc, and the three "Sugar Loaves" farther west, are
entirely of the typical variety of coarse granite.

6. Trachytic Granite. Above No. 5, with the same horizontal appearance, is a
granite of trachytic or semi-porphyritic aspect. The feldspar is orthoclase, as shown
by analysis, and most of the rock is made of it, being essentially rounded crystals
imbedded in a granitic paste, with scarcely any quartz, and rarely a peppering of dark
mica. It often contains a small per cent, of manganese. The first great expanse of this
rock lies between the saw-mill of Rounsevel & Coburn, in Carroll, on the Ammonoosuc,
and Waterville. The Twin Mountains, Haystack, a portion of the Lafayette range
beneath the cap, Mts. Liberty, Osceola, and other high peaks, are mainly composed of
this trachytic granite. It will be observed that this area is wholly in the forest region,
untraversed by roads ; hence it is not strange that its peculiar characters should not
have been recognized earlier. There is some of this rock north of Mt. Carrigain, and
the Sawyer's Rock range appears to belong here. Other localities are high up Rocky
Branch in Bartlett, Iron mountain, the valley of the Saco in Bartlett, underlying the
great mass of Pequawket, but above the common granite. The rock referred to this
division, along the Swift river and the Ossipee mountains, is made of finer materials,
with more of the paste, and that of a darker color than the ledges farther west. It
also disintegrates less readily.

7. Brecciated Granite. This designation applies to the rocks forming Eagle cliff
in Franconia, and several nameless peaks between Profile and Kinsman. The frag-
ments most easily recognized are those of porphyritic gneiss, dark gneiss, and horn-
blende, imbedded in a very compact feldspathic paste. Along Eagle cliff there are
appearances of stratification, and at Echo lake the brecciated granite appears to
underlie the porphyritic gneiss. The rock is irregular in arrangement, as if thrust

7,6 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

up from below. As it contains no fragment of the common or trachytic granite,
we have concluded it to be more ancient than either of these granites, but newer
than the porphyritic gneiss. The two areas are also probably connected beneath the
Pemigewasset valley, under the common coarse granite, which either flowed in above
the breccia, or was deposited upon it quietly in some other way.

8. Norian. This includes several areas of labradorite rock, including compact
felsites, breccias, and sienites. They are the Lafayette range, Twin Mountain area, neat-
Loon pond, Trypyramid region, Carrigain district, north of Mt. Tom, valley of Dry
river, valley of Rocky Branch, Sable mountain in Jackson, Mt. Pequawket or Kiarsarge,
Deer River valley in Albany, near Mt. Chocorua, and Red Hill, Moultonboro\ There
are other areas to be referred to the same group outside of the White Mountain area.

9. Clay slate arid Quartzites. The first of these areas is a limited one on the
south slope of Pequawket ; the second south-west of Mt. Willard, passing into andalu-
site slates and quartzites on Mts. Willey, Field, and Tom.

10. Coos Group. This embraces the andalusite slates on the east flank of the Mt.
Washington range, repeated on the north-east side of Pine mountain, near Gorham,
and the staurolite rocks from Littleton southwards, curving around the underlying
Bethlehem gneiss. Only the eastern border of the latter is indicated upon the map.

White Mountain Explorations in 1S72 and 1873.

A still larger party was organized for work in 1 872. Under the direc-
tion of J. A. Leach, of Nashua, a plane-table survey was made of the
south-west portion of the mountain area, with the design of perfecting
the map. The rest of the party examined the rocks along the Saco val-
ley and in Albany for a period of three weeks, under the guidance of Mr.
Huntington. The explorations served to confirm the theory of the pre-
vious year concerning the arrangement of the formations. The parties
consisted of the following members of the class of 1872, Dartmouth col-
lege: E. J. Bartlett, W. H. Cotton, L. G. Farmer, G. H. Fletcher, A. M.
French, G. M. French, W. H. Galbraith, W. A. Holman, E. D. Mason, C.
H. Sawyer, H. M. Silver, G. F. Williams, and T. W. D. Worthen ; N. W.
Ladd and A. O. Lawrence of the class of 1873.

In 1873 a few points about the mountains were visited by Mr. Hunt-
ington and myself for the sake of completing our knowledge of them.
The exploration, so far as it seemed advisable to proceed with our present
instructions from the state authorities, had been essentially completed
in 1872.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 37

The Labrador System.

The group of rocks referred by us to the Labrador system are first
described in the 1871 report, and certain passages in the history of its
exploration may be of considerable importance. The names of "Norian
system" and "Norite rocks" were applied to this group in the report after
a suggestion by Dr. Hunt. Upon reflection it seems more proper to use
the first name suggested for the system, rather than the lithological
appellation for a characteristic member.

The first locality described is in Waterville. Its discovery was due to
the uncovering of the ledges by the remarkable rain-storm ending Oct. 4,
1 869. The ravages of the freshet were described by Prof. G. H. Perkins,
ph. d., of Burlington, Vt, who speaks of the ledge as a " black hornblendic
rock." In May, 1870, Mr. Huntington went up the same stream and
brought back specimens of the dark rock, which he thought might be
labradorite. He carried a fragment of it to Dr. T. Sterry Hunt, of
Montreal, for examination, March 21, 1871. Dr. Hunt wrote as follows
concerning this rock to Mr. Huntington :

"The blue granular crystalline rock from Waterville, N. H., consists chiefly of a
feldspar allied to labradorite. I have not separated the grains to get them quite pure,
but the mass is seen under a glass to consist of the bluish-grey cleavable feldspar, with
some mica, probably biotite, and a little magnetic iron ore. From a pulverized sample
the magnet takes up about 5 per cent, of magnetic grains ; these contain a little titan-
ium. The analysis of the material thus freed from the magnetic portion gave me,
silica, 50.30; alumina, 25.10; protoxide of iron, 4.23; lime, 14.07; magnesia, 2.95;
volatile, 0.70 : loss (alkalies), 2. 65=100. 00. I have found the feldspar of the so-called
labradorite or norite rocks very variable in composition, being sometimes more and
other times less basic than typical labradorite." "The analysis agrees closely with
what might be expected from an admixture of labradorite with biotite. It (the rock)
may hold a little hornblende, but I did not discern any. Thus the rock agrees chemi-
cally and mineralogically with much of the norite of the labradorite series of rocks, in
which titaniferous iron ore and biotite not unfrequently occur."

About the same time the following passage was written by Dr. Hunt in
a letter to the state geologist. By oversight, the second passage was
printed in a communication to the American Journal of Science, January,
1872, instead of the first. The error was corrected in the report for 1871.

38 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

"The specimen brought by Mr. Huntington is a labradorite or norite rock, which
resembles in composition and aspect that of the Labradorian, with this difference, how-
ever, that it is much more tender and friable, and, in this respect, resembles the gran-
itic gneiss of the White Mountains, as compared with similar rocks in the Adirondacks."

I first visited the locality August 18 and 19, 1871, and subsequently on
September 20, in company with Prof. J. D. Dana, ll. d., of New Haven,
Conn. The conclusions derived from these two visits appeared in a short
article by myself in the journal above cited, followed by descriptive
analyses of some of the rocks by Mr. E. S. Dana, of New Haven, Conn.
The description of the rocks agrees with that which appeared subse-
quently in the 1871 report, save in one or two particulars, which I will
mention.

In ascending from "Beckytovvn," the first rock seen was called gneiss,
with nodular orthoclase, with its supposed strata dipping by compass 8o
S. 70 W. This rock is evidently the same with the "trachytic granite"
of Mt. Osceola and elsewhere. After noticing its distribution in mass
throughout so large a portion of the mountains, and its nearly horizontal
position between the coarse granite below and the felsites above, the pre-
sumption arises that these so-called strata may be bands of mica whose
planes do not correspond with those of accumulation, but have been
superinduced during the metamorphism of the rock. The jointed planes,
dipping about 25 westerly, would be those of stratification, if the rock is
stratified. These were pointed out by J. P. Lesley.*

A few rods up Norway brook appears the first ledge of the ossipyte.
Its junction with the gneiss is concealed by drift. For about a mile
similar ledges occur, some exposures being sixty or seventy feet long.
Considered as an isolated case, it is difficult to determine the planes of
stratification, since two prominent sets of jointed planes exist, either of
which might be taken for strata. One set dip about 20 northerly, and
are the most numerous; the other dip about 75 W. io S. As the lat-
ter correspond better in position with the supposed strata of nodular
gneiss, it was thought they indicated the proper lines of deposition. The
former, however, are what appear at the first glance to be the strata; and,
as by this interpretation the position of the rocks at Waterville will

Proc. Amer. Acad. Sci., Philadelphia, i36j, p. 363.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 39

correspond with that in Franconia about the Lafayette range, our former
ideas must be modified. We should have, therefore, an underlying gran-
ite, as seen in Mad river two miles below Greely's hotel ; then the trachytic
granite of Osceola, extending to the cascades and including the "nodular
gneiss" on Norway brook, dipping gently westerly; and finally above
both, the ossipyte schists, with a small inclination.

Mr. E. S. Dana has carefully analyzed specimens of the Waterville
rocks, and described the assemblage as a new rock, with the name of
Ossipyte, after one of the aboriginal tribes of Indians formerly dwelling
in the neighborhood.

The following are his results with the ossipyte, it being composed of
the two minerals, labradorite and chrysolite :

Labradorite.

11.

in.

Mean.

Si0 2

51.04

51.02

....

SI-03

A1 2 3 (Ti0 2 )

26.34

26.07

....

26.20

Fe 2 3

4-79

S-i3

....

4.96

CaO

14.09

14.23

....

I4.16

NaO

3-44

.58

100.37

The large percentage of iron (determined volumetrically) had not been expected,
as the eye had failed to detect any impurities in the fragments selected for analysis.
Some very thin pieces were afterwards examined under the microscope ; and by this
means it was found that even the clearest pieces contained very minute grains of an
iron ore, from -g^th to -^oth of an inch in diameter, which were strongly attractable by
the magnet. Microscopic dark specks less than T o-oTo^ 1 of an inch in size were also
observed, and at first referred to the same cause ; but, on magnifying them 800 diame-
ters, it was concluded that they were air-cavities in the structure of the feldspar, and
not any foreign matter. The peculiar dark smoky color of the rock is doubtless to be
explained by the presence of these particles of iron ore.

This magnetic iron ore, a sufficient amount for the test having been picked out
by the magnet, gave a decided reaction for titanic acid.

2. Chrysolite.

II.

Mean.

Si0 2

38.82

38.88

38.85

A1 3

tr.

FeO

28.00

28.15

28. 07

MnO

1. 12

1.36

1.24

MgO

30.88

3-3 6

30.62

CaO

I.26

1.60

i-43

100.08 100.35 100.21

40 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

The oxygen ratio of the bases and silica afforded is nearly i :i, and of the iron
and magnesia about i :2 ; whence the formula (JFe-f-Mg) 2 S. This is then a chryso-
lite, containing an unusually large per centage of iron (here a constituent of the min-
eral, and not owing to the presence of impurities). The amount of iron is not strange,
considering the fact that the rock contains, diffused throughout it, so much free iron ore.

This chrysolite has the same ratio deduced for hyalosiderite, but still differs widely
in fusibility and other characters. It is, in fact, a true chrysolite in all respects, while
hyalosiderite is a doubtful compound, probably owing its fusibility in part to the potash
present. B. B. the chrysolite is nearly infusible.

The following is Mr. Dana's analysis of another specimen of labradorite :

This feldspar has a grayish-white color, is destitute of iridescence, and only care-
ful searching reveals any striations. Two analyses afforded,

11.

in.

Mean.

SiO.,

52.15

52.36

....

52.25

A1 2 3

27.63

27-39

....

27.5I

Fe0 3

1.09

1.07

....

I.08

MgO

.92

1.06

....

CaO

13.10

13-45

....

13.22

NaO

....

3.68

2.1S

2.18

100.91
Both analyses show that the labradorite of this region is remarkable for the large
proportion of lime present.

The next point in the history of these rocks in New Hampshire relates
to a discussion respecting the discovery of the mineral aggregate named
"ossipyte." In a letter of May 1, 1872 (which, with Prof. Dana's, is pub-
lished in full in the report for 1871), Dr. Hunt speaks thus concerning
Mr. E. S. Dana's paper : " He remarks that a rock consisting of labra-
dor with chrysolite (olivine) has not been previously described. It was,
however, long since noticed by Macculloch in Skye, and by G. Rose at
Elfdalen. \Senft die Fclsartcn ; also, Geology of Canada, p. 650.]"

The substance of this note having been communicated to Mr. Dana,
the following letter came from his father:

Prof. C. H. Hitchcock.

My Dear Sir In the absence of my son, Mr. Edward S. Dana, now on his way to
Europe, I write a brief reply to your letter of the 29th inst. You stated that Prof. T.
Sterry Hunt, in a recent note, objects to Mr. Dana's remark that a rock of the compo-
sition of the ossipyte of Waterville had not before been described, and that he refers
to Macculloch as having observed the same in Skye, and G. Rose another example of
it at Elfdalen in Sweden. Mr. Hunt is evidently unaware of the facts. Macculloch

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 4 1

found chrysolite in Skye, according to his two articles in Vols. Ill and IV of the Trans-
actions of the Geological Society of London, only in trap or "amygdaloid;' 1 and he
repeats the same essentially in his work on rocks, the chrysolite being spoken of as
occurring in an eruptive or overlying rock. Greg and Lettsom, in their work on British
Mineralogy (185S), confirm this by speaking of the chrysolite of Skye as being found
in trap. Moreover, the chrysolite is one of three constituents, the other two being
hornblende or augite, and a feldspar; and the rock is not Laurentian or Norian.

The rock of Elfdalen is undoubtedly related to that of Waterville, and yet is widely
different. I have not seen Rose's description of it. But Senft, to whom Mr. Hunt
refers, speaks of it as a hypersthene rock, that is, a granular compound of labradorite
and hypersthene, with grains of chrysolite as an accessory ingredient. The ossipyte,
on the contrary, consists almost solely of labradorite and chrysolite, there being " only
a very little of a black mineral, probably hornblende. 11 I examined the specimens of
ossipyte with Mr. Dana, the same that I collected when in Waterville with you, and
through much of it could detect no hornblende whatever. Mr. Dana was right, there-
fore, in saying that this Waterville rock, consisting essentially of labradorite and
chrysolite, is one not previously described. The principal constituent, besides the two
mentioned, was the titaniferous iron ore, which he found distributed in microscopic
grains through the labradorite.

The light colored rock, from a point higher up the stream, determined to be a
labradorite rock by Mr. Dana, is, as he observes, wholly different from the ossipyte, it
containing much hornblende and no chrysolite ; and the titaniferous iron ore in visible
grains, instead of invisible particles disseminated through the labradorite.

After the publication of these letters, Dr. Hunt writes to the effect that
he had personally examined Macculloch's specimens in Europe, and felt
confident that the rock of Skye was the same with that from Waterville.
Per contra, Prof. Dana communicates a message from Prof. Geikie, direc-
tor of the geological survey of Scotland, in which it is stated that the
rock of Skye is an eruptive rock related to trap. Whatever may be the
truth as to the Scottish rock, it is clear that no one had proposed any
technical name for this mineral aggregate before Mr. Dana; and there-
fore, by the canons of lithological nomenclature, the designation of
"ossipyte" is entitled to recognition and acceptance.

The 1 87 1 report contains a full description of this locality at Water-
ville, and an enumeration of the other localities of the same formation.
These are Sabba Day and Down's brooks, Waterville ; Loon pond, Wood-
stock; Lafayette range; Mt. Tom; Mt. Washington river; and Sable
mountain, in Jackson. These are the only ones in which the mineral
labradorite had been found in the area of the map.
vol. 1. 6

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Discovery of the Succession of Members of the Labrador System.

The same report contains the announcement of the discovery of the
relations to one another of the several members of the Labrador group,
and also to the underlying porphyritic gneiss, White Mountain series, and
brecciated granite.

From a peak north of Mt. Lafayette in Franconia to Flume mountain,
there seems to be a nearly continuous band of dark, compact feldspar,
about five miles long, and never more than two hundred to three hundred
feet thick. It closely resembles some of the compact labradorites. The
layers are horizontal, or nearly so, resting upon trachytic granite through-
out. It has not actually been traversed from the south end of the
Lafayette ridge to Flume mountain, but the topographical features of the
country are such as to render probable its continuance by a curve to
connect with that which has been observed upon the latter summit.
The annexed wood-cut will show the relative position and thickness of
the rocks between Mt. Liberty (C) and Mt. Flume (A), two thousand
two hundred and fifty feet above the bottom of the valley. There is the
common coarse granite at the base, the celebrated Flume of Lincoln
(Franconia), lying at the bottom of the valley (F in the figure), eighteen
hundred and forty-nine feet above the ocean. Above the Pemigewasset
river there may be six hundred feet thickness of this rock, considering it
to lie horizontally, before reaching the trachytic variety. This in turn
may be one thousand feet thick, as shown at band C. This rock caps
Mt. Liberty, but the compact feldspar has been spared by the denuding
agencies upon Mt. Flume. As seen by the general map, the edges
of this dark rock everywhere rest upon the trachytic granite.

Felsite.
Trachytic Granite.

Common Granite.

Section across the Flume.

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 43

Mt. Pequawket.

The same granite which appears at the Flume, is found in the Green
Hills, and all along through Conway, at Kiarsarge village, and in the lower
part of the mountain itself. Above this the trachytic granite occurs upon
all sides most distinctly (the fourth had not then been explored). It is not
abundant on the south and east, but very characteristic. On the south,
it crops out on the hillside below the slate. About five hundred feet
above the south base of Pequawket, and in the old foot-path (that of 1840),
occurs a ledge of clay slate, directly above the granite. This formation
does not seem to extend far, as it is not found in either of the new paths
up the mountain, and a very short distance from its lower boundary we
pass beyond it and come upon the rock of which the upper two thousand
feet of Pequawket appears to consist, viz., an igneous felsite, full of peb-
bles. The greater portion of the included fragments are angular, slaty,
lying at all angles, and range in size from an inch to a foot in diameter ;
but the pebbles, many of them rounded, also occur very frequently, and
were all taken from the rock in place. The slate above referred to
runs N. yo E., S. 70 W., and dips 50 to 8o N. W., being much
twisted on a small scale. It does not appear either in the old or new
roads, but in the path of 1840. Five hundred feet north and south and
one thousand feet east and west seem to include the whole exposure,
though further examination may detect it elsewhere. The upper part of
Pequawket shows two well marked systems of joints, which seem to
affect nearly the whole mountains. At the top, one set runs S. 6o W.,
and dips about 8o N. W. ; the other set runs N. 5 5 W., and dips about
8o S. W. It will be observed that the first set agree almost exactly
with the strike and dip of the slate in the lower part of the mountain.
In many places on the upper part of the mountain the rock has a thin
bedded sort of structure parallel to the jointed planes; but whether these
divisions indicate a real highly inclined bedding remains to be seen.

The slate lying above the trachytic granite is, in this respect, like the
felsites of Pemigewasset, but, unlike them, has been much twisted, and
reposes on the top of the terrace, inclined at a high angle. No doubt
would be entertained respecting its very much later origin than the upper
two thousand feet of the mountain, except that the latter is partly com-

44 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

posed of fragments of slate, evidently derived from this formation. The
lower portions adjacent to the slate are chiefly composed of it, and even
at the summit small dark pieces, apparently of the same material, abound.
A similar rock with dark fragments is found on Twin mountain. The
composition of the cement shows it to be allied in character to the felsites
elsewhere found overlying the trachytic granite.

A somewhat similar slate occurs between Mt. Willard and Mt. Field.
Specimens from the two localities are not distinguishable from each other,
and the mass of Mt. Willard is a trachytic granite. These slaty rocks
pass into quartzites, if not into felsites, and cover a considerable area,
including the country from Mt. Willey to beyond Mt. Tom, over three miles.
Well marked crystals of andalusite are found in a similar slate on the
north-east spur of Mt. Tom, which seems to ally the series with the
andalusite slates of the Coos group along the head waters of Ellis river,
at the east side of Mt. Washington. I observed that jointed planes
existed in the trachytic granite parallel with the slaty strata above
them on Mt. Willard, like those described upon Pequawket. Passing
to the first peak of Mt. Field, the line of union of the granite and slate
was traversed, having a compass course of N. 25 W. In the saddle of
Mt. Field the slates dipped 50 S. 20 W. But on the mountains south
nothing is found to correspond with the feldspathic and brecciated cap of
Pequawket. The relations of this slate to the granite and felsites demand
further examination.

Relative Position.

A few considerations will serve to indicate the probable relative posi-
tions of the rocks that have been described. The sections given of the
common granite, trachytic granite, and the felsites, seem to determine
their relative positions, the last being at the top. The brecciated granites
of Franconia appear to be older than any of these, and to underlie them,
as already stated; and hence there may not be any correspondence
between them and the breccias made up of felsites and labradorite. If
these points are assumed, the porphyritic gneiss can be shown to be at
the bottom of the series, for it lies outside of the lowest of them. Two
principal ranges of this rock enter the limits of our map. The eastern

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 45

is cut off abruptly by the Labrador system at Waterville, crossing at an
angle of at least seventy degrees, and as much as fifty degrees in the dip.
Another exposure of the same band of gneiss appears at the base of Mt.
Carrigain, standing nearly vertically. Passing from this across to the
western range, we travel fifteen miles. An anticlinal is hardly supposa-
ble over so great a distance. The dips have not been observed system-
atically ; but the western range, from the Pemigewasset to Moosilauke,
has an anticlinal form, and comes up again west of Moosilauke so as to
underlie a synclinal mass of andalusite schist or gneiss. This structure
agrees with its position, as deduced from other facts. The andalusite
rock is repeated east of the Pemigewasset in an anticlinal way, so as to
correspond, as shown by its distribution on the map.

The porphyritic gneiss west of Echo lake clips north-westerly. At
the Lake of the Clouds the dip was not measured. On the ridge running
south it dips 50 easterly. Below Walker's falls it stands nearly vertical.
Our notes represent a feldspatho-hornblendic rock in horizontal plates
immediately contiguous on the east, most likely lying upon the edges of
this gneiss. If this proves correct, then the rest of the intermediate
space to the crest of the range will be found occupied by the trachytic
granite, the horizontal plates showing its beginning. If the horizontal
position of the granites and felsites is to be regarded as produced by
original deposition, then the elevation of the gneiss took place first ; and
this mass of mountains has been only slightly disturbed by elevating
forces since that time.

The porphyritic area along the Ammonoosuc is probably a repetition of
that near Echo lake, making a synclinal axis, just as in Benton, under
Moosilauke. With this premise we can infer that the gneiss of Bethlehem
was formed subsequently, and lies in a basin, with an east and west axis.

We cannot as yet locate the andalusite gneiss, save that it is newer than
the porphyritic bands, as shown at Moosilauke.

There is one further suggestion in respect to relative ages. The Coos
group of Littleton and Lisbon passes around the west end of the Bethle-
hem gneiss, showing that the latter existed before either the deposition
or elevation of the former. This indicates that the whole of the White
Mountain rocks are more ancient than the Coos and Quebec groups of
the Connecticut valley.

4.6 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Map Surveys and Levelling.

Some of the new material obtained for perfecting the map in 1870 was
the following :

First, a new map of Connecticut river, from Massachusetts to Connec-
ticut lake. Part of this was surveyed in 1825, with the expectation that
a canal would be built along the river, as high as Mclndoe's falls, in Bath.
This very valuable map was presented to the survey by Dr. E. E. Phelps,
of Windsor, Vt. It is superior to the county maps or the state map of
Vermont, and is therefore the best one in existence. It represents things
as they were in 1825; but there has been little change since that time
except in the construction of new turnpikes and railroads.

Second, Messrs. Walling and Gray were employed late in the season to
prepare a map of the river between Bath and Connecticut lake, from new
surveys. This has been done carefully, and constitutes a very important
addition to our materials for the final map. These same engineers also
made careful odometer surveys of the Mt. Washington carriage road and
the Fabyan turnpike, which are in our possession.

We commenced this year the preparation of a raised map of the state,
for the museum, upon the scale of one mile to the inch. The table to
serve as its foundation was placed in position, and nearly all the outside
boundaries of the state drawn upon it. In 1871 Mr. Huntington drew
contour lines for all of Coos county north of Shelburne and Lancaster,
from which the north portion of the model has been constructed. At the
same time I constructed a plan of the Franconia and Bethlehem moun-
tains upon a much larger scale. This was designed to illustrate the
theory of Prof. Agassiz respecting the northward transportation of boul-
ders by a local glacier from the Franconia Mountains.

Additional work upon the model of the whole state was performed in
1873. It will not be best to complete this until the last item of facts con-
cerning the topography of the state has been garnered in. The general
facts upon which this is based will appear in the chapter upon topography.

The surveying necessary for the mapping of a part of the Ammo-
noosuc gold field, referred to heretofore, was completed in 1870. The
last part of the work, setting the stakes for more than two square miles,

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 47

was performed under the direction of Prof. Quimby. The map shows
the courses of all the valuable mineral veins existing upon the tract, as
well as the remarkable windings and dislocations of the formations which
are there exhibited. Not less than five hundred specimens were collected
to illustrate this map.

A Trigonometrical Survey.

By an act passed in 1871, congress authorized the coast survey to
expend a considerable sum of money in extending their triangulations
into the interior, but only for those states where a geological survey is in
progress. New Hampshire is the only one of the New England states
which has so far received any benefit from this act, and the annual appro-
priation for this purpose has not been less than $2,000. The work has
been placed in the hands of Professor E. T. Quimby, of Dartmouth
college. He first occupied the stations established in 1869 for the benefit
of the geological survey, so as to verify their accuracy. The work has
been successfully carried on now for three seasons, and the latitudes and
longitudes thus obtained are given in the chapter on topography.

Levelling along Connecticut River.

For the sake of a proper understanding of the surface geology of
Connecticut river, it has been thought best to level from the Massachu-
setts line to Connecticut lake. The work was commenced in 1870 by
Gyles Merrill, Jr., and S. Q. Robinson, of the class of 1872, C. S. D.,
Dartmouth college. They have levelled between the line and Walpole.
Mr. Merrill was assisted also by his brother. The line from Bellows
Falls to Windsor was levelled by Warren Upham in 1874. The work
above Hanover was performed in 1871, under the direction of A. F. Reed,
of Groton, Mass., assisted between Hanover and Lancaster by Dr. Nathan
Barrows, of Meriden, and between Lancaster and Connecticut lake by
Messrs. C: F. and F. A. Bradley, of the class of 1873, Dartmouth college.
The connection between this survey and that of the P. & O. Railroad, at
Dalton, was made by J. T. Woodbury in 1874.

In the report for 1871 there appears a long list of altitudes, including
all that had been obtained by special surveys at that time. These are
to be given more fully in a following chapter, with many additions and
improvements.

48 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Microscopical Researches.

In view of the importance of microscopical researches, not only in
gaining knowledge of the mineral structure of rocks, but also of the
" polishing powder" and other valuable minerals abundant in the state,
we organized a new department of the survey in 1870, and obtained the
assistance of Professor A. M. Edwards, of Newark, N. J., and Professor
T. Egleston, of the School of Mines, Columbia college, New York.
Professor Edwards has prepared an extensive report upon the organisms
producing the lacustrine sedimentary deposits ; and Professor Egleston
has had charge of the cutting and description of rock sections.

Fossils in New Hampshire.

In October, 1870, while examining the limestones of Littleton, fossil
corals were discovered. They were quite numerous, though obscure. In-
telligence of the discovery was immediately telegraphed to the Dartmouth
Scientific Association, who happened to be holding a meeting the same
evening. It was announced to them that New Hampshire could no
longer be called an Azoic state, since she had within her borders a coral
reef of Silurian age.

Specimens were sent to E. Billings, F. G. S., paleontologist of the
geological survey of Canada, who recognized the genera ZapJircntis and
Favosites, and perceived the probable equivalency of these limestones
with the Helderberg series of Memphremagog. The band of rock was
at first supposed to be the same with the limestones of Dalton and
Lancaster, and perhaps farther north. The fossils have been discov-
ered in two localities, nearly two miles apart, upon what is thought to be
the two sides of a synclinal axis. The limestone is underlaid by a
quartzite and covered by a clay slate, the latter containing impressions of
worm tracks. Though previously announced, this is believed to be the
first authentic discovery of fossils in the solid rocks of New Hampshire.

No time could be devoted to this interesting department till 1873, when
our labors were rewarded by the discovery of fossils characteristic of the
Lower Helderberg. Mr. Huntington was so fortunate as to find, on
Fitch hill, Littleton, specimens of brachiopods, a gasteropod, and large

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 49

crinoidal stems. Mr. Billings reports that the brachiopod is allied to the
Pentamerus Knightii of the Lower Helderberg ; and that the gasteropod
is also like one in the same formation. The crinoidal fragments place
this deposit in correlation with the noted bed at Bernardston, Mass., first
described by my father in 1833. Geologists had supposed the latter bed
to be of Devonian age, because the large crinoids seemed like those from
the Corniferous beds in New York ; but our discoveries serve to modify
this conclusion. Considerable attention was devoted to the Helderberg
deposits by us in 1873, and we have been enabled to derive most impor-
tant generalizations respecting the structure of the state, second in
importance only (though most would value them more highly) to the
results of the White Mountain exploration. A lengthy sketch of the
New Hampshire Helderberg rocks has been published in the American
Journal of Science for April, 1874. Our next volume will treat the sub-
ject with all the detail required.

QuARTZITES IN THE GxEISS.

Hon. S. N. Bell, of Manchester, pointed out to me, before commenc-
ing the New Hampshire survey, the occurrence of interesting bands of
quartzite in the southern part of the state. As soon as occasion offered,
an examination of them was commenced. Mr. Bell often accompanied us
on our expeditions, and for his own pleasure traced out thirty or forty
miles of their extent. In 1871, in company with Mr. L. Holbrook, the
limits of these bands were studied in Hillsborough, Merrimack, and
Strafford counties. The results of our examination indicated that these
two bands of quartzite traverse a tract of country, often in a serpentine
course parallel to each other, eight or ten miles apart, from Temple to the
north part of Strafford on one line, and from New Ipswich to the south
part of Strafford on the other. Beyond this point the formations seem
to be covered by the andalusite schists.

After passing a wide band of gneiss to the west of the Temple-Straf-
ford range, we came to a belt of porphyritic gneiss, which seems to be
the oldest formation in the state. In accordance with this view of the
relative ages of the formations, we find similar rocks west from this cen-
tral porphyritic gneiss. The studies commenced by G. A. Wheelock, of
Keene, have brought to light two beds of the same quartzites in Keene
vol. 1. 7

50 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

and Surry, separated by a wide band of gneiss from the central group.
As the same rock appears in Grafton and Newport, fifty or sixty miles
farther north, it is likely the same arrangement continues past the centre
of the state ; while the descriptions of my father, in the final report on
the geology of Massachusetts, speak of a white quartzite having the same
relations, midway through that commonwealth. Neither this, nor the
band of porphyritic gneiss mentioned as passing nearly north and south
from New Hampshire to Connecticut, on the meridian of Ware, was
represented upon his map, as their importance was not appreciated.

In the report for 1872, a map of the southern part of New Hampshire
was presented for the purpose of showing the course of these quartzite
bands. The following statements were made respecting them :

Our map shows two nearly parallel ranges of quartzites, the one extending from
Allenstown to Mason, and the other from the same town to Temple. Diligent search
has failed to reveal any traces of these bands beyond Allenstown, which surely belong
to them. Inasmuch as the accompanying gneisses also terminate, both those included
between the ranges, and the crumpled granitic gneiss to the south-east, and the mica
schists beyond seem to have taken a northerly course, we conclude that the continua-
tion of all those strata is concealed by the overlying blanket of mica schist. The
map shows how completely these bands are interrupted by the newer schists. Nothing
has yet been suggested to account for the termination of the quartzite bands in Temple
and Mason. Further search may reveal them on the same line in Massachusetts.

The map shows these quartzites in Richmond, Keene, Surry, and Grafton, on the
west side of the porphyritic range. We have not yet been able to trace them out in
that part of the state. These ranges have been seen in Massachusetts, especially in
New Salem. Their occurrence in two bands on both sides of the main anticlinal will
furnish us the general clue to the stratigraphical structure of the gneiss, besides making
plain the line of the granites and soapstone, for there is a range of the latter mineral
accompanying the Keene quartzites. It will be observed that the latter curve around
the older porphyritic rocks of Swanzey.

It is almost exciting to follow the hills of this rock through the towns. They can be
seen miles away, being as white as snow. The following are the most notable hills
along its course : In East Concord, Oak hill ; West Concord, Pine hill ; on the Temple
range, the foundations of the upper railroad bridge, and the Pinnacle in Hooksett ;
the hill of quartz quarried for the manufacture of glass in Lyndeborough, and a long
ridge in Temple extending north-easterly from the village ; on the Mason range, a
high hill north-east from East Wilton ; the north-east corner of Amherst ; and Campbell
hill in Hooksett. The ranges are 6.20 miles apart in New Boston and Bedford,
narrowing to 3.12 in Hooksett, and 5 miles in Wilton. The most remote localities in

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 5 1

Temple and Mason are 6^ miles distant from each other. The Mason range does not
curve to the west, as erroneously shown upon the map.

There are also ranges of quartzite in the mica schist group. The most extensive is
in Raymond and Nottingham. Other outcrops are in Londonderry, Strafford, and
Pittsfield. Those in Strafford were formerly regarded as the extension of the Temple
and Mason ranges.

*&*

Museum.

Work has steadily progressed, during the continuance of the survey
upon the museum. Culver hall contains the specimens designed for the
New Hampshire College of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts ; but the
Concord collection still remains packed in boxes. Briefly, the special
features of the museum are the following : A room about forty feet square
is set apart for the illustration of the geology, mineralogy, paleontology,
botany, and zoology of New Hampshire and Vermont. It is designed that
every department shall be represented complete and entire. Only the col-
lections of the survey have been presented by the state ; but earnest efforts
are put forth to secure the remainder by aid from friends of Dartmouth col-
lege. This institution being nearly the geographical centre of two states,
it seems an appropriate place for this gathering of representations of
their natural products and resources. The room now contains, first, and
the most prominent feature, fourteen shelves, holding specimens collected
along fourteen east and west lines across New Hampshire. Several of
the section lines have been carried across to Lake Champlain. Behind
each shelf is a colored profile of the route taken, drawn to an exact
scale for heights and distances, each formation being distinguished from
every other, the names of the groups and localities printed in large
letters, numbers placed on the section to show the exact locality of every
specimen, and the rocks appear in the immediate proximity of the figures
on the wall. Lithological specimens, obtained between the section lines,
are placed on the shelf in their proper relations, but not so as to be
confounded with the others. There is also a series of large maps of the
northern townships (and eventually there will be of all the rest), showing
the topographical position of every lithological specimen in the collection.
If possible, these will be reproduced for the report. Second, the room
contains several sets of specimens, properly catalogued, to illustrate more

52 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

fully important areas. They are the White Mountain area, the Ammo-
noosuc gold field (including the Lyman map district), and the towns
adjacent to Hanover. Third, a special collection of minerals; fourth, of
fossils ; fifth, of all economic materials, particularly the granites of New
Hampshire, and the marbles and slates of Vermont ; sixth, a special set to
illustrate the distribution of boulders ; seventh, numerous topographical
models.

The college collections embrace, first, most of our birds, collected and
presented by Prof. Henry Fairbanks, of St. Johnsbury, Vt; second, one
thousand species of New Hampshire insects, collected by C. P. Whitney,
of Milford, and presented by Mr. Fairbanks ; third, a few mammals, by
the same ; fourth, miscellaneous New Hampshire fish and reptiles ; fifth,
the plants of the White Mountains, collected by the survey, and the local
flora of Hanover, the latter gathered and presented to Dartmouth college
by Miss Mary Hitchcock, of Hanover.

The state house collection ought to be equally comprehensive ; but at
present there are no rooms suitable for its accommodation.

The Mt. Washington Expedition.

The chief part of the report for 1870 is occupied by a sketch of the
Mt. Washington expedition. The meteorological tables are given in full ;
and, side by side with them, observations from several other localities,
taken at the same hours, for purposes of comparison. Mr. S. A. Nelson
furnishes an admirable sketch of the meteorology of Mt. Washington,
following the tables. His great skill in generalizing from facts will cause
great regret that he was unable to prepare for this volume a sketch of the
meteorology of the state.

Mr. Huntington's Labors.

We have been greatly favored, through most of our labors, by the per-
severance of Mr. J. H. Huntington, principal assistant. He has entered
thoroughly into the spirit of the work, and has fully identified himself
with our explorations. Though having a special field of his own, he has
always been ready to labor elsewhere whenever assistance was required.
The following is a general outline of his work since the last mention of

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 53

him: In the early part of 1870, he traversed, on foot, the various moun-
tain notches between the Saco, Pemigewasset, and Connecticut rivers, for
the purpose of ascertaining their altitudes. Next he renewed the exami-
nation of the rocks of Coos county. Afterwards he joined our party in
the White Mountain explorations. Later in the season he continued the
exploration in Coos county and Bean's purchase. Later in the fall he
devoted himself to the interests of the Mt. Washington meteorological
expedition, attending to the completion of the arrangements for occupy-
ing the railroad depot as an observatory. The six months from the middle
of November to the middle of May were spent by him mostly upon the
summit, where he was the leader of the heroic party who risked their
lives in behalf of science. When this task was completed, he resumed
his work upon the geology of Coos county in 1871, being occupied until
late in July with the compilation of his report upon the geology of Coos
county. He then took the field and labored in the northern part of the
state, also in Essex county, Vt, the latter without cost to the survey,
though we receive the benefits of the exploration. In September he
examined the formations near Jackson, Bartlett, Conway, Albany, etc.,
partly to carry on the search for labradorite rocks.

Essentially the same field was traversed by him in the summer of 1872.
His researches in Albany will be found of special importance. In 1873,
after the completion of the exploration in the northern part of the state,
he commenced working in the gneissic district lying between the main
range of porphyritic gneiss on the east, and the Connecticut valley Coos
group. The sketch of the geology of this tract will be written by him as
soon as possible. In the first volume, the chapter on meteorology has been
prepared by him ; also, topographical and scenographical contributions.

Miscellaneous.

Very much remains to be told of the history of our scientific ex-
plorations ; but we fancy it will be more satisfactory to read the com-
pleted results than to learn how they have been effected. In the reports
there has been a fine series of rock analyses by Profs. Seely and Blan-
pied; outline sketches of the subject-matter of this series of volumes;
the progress of the microscopical department ; additional meteorological

54 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

tables from Mt. Washington and Hanover; and a sketch of the geology
of southern New Hampshire. The map illustrating it shows the follow-
ing formations between the Exeter sienites and the Coos group, along
Connecticut river, given in the supposed order of their age:
i. Porphyritic gneiss and granite.

2. Granitic gneiss.

3. White Mountain series, including andalusite gneiss, ordinary and
imperfect gneiss, the so-called granite of Concord and Fitzwilliam, beds
of soapstone and limestone.

4. Bands of quartzite.

5. Mica schist.

6. Andalusite slates or outliers of the Coos group. Of these the map
distinguishes the porphyritic group, the quartzite bands, the mica schist,
and the Coos outlier. The other gneiss, being yet known imperfectly, I
will not attempt to divide.

The following remarks concerning the second group may be quoted,
as this had not been distinguished from the adjacent groups before.

There is decided evidence of a range of very ancient gneiss from Mason to Deerfield.
It abounds in feldspar; the strata are very highly inclined and remarkably plicated.
It is very granitic, so much so that but a slight additional metamorphic action would
be needed to obliterate all the planes of stratification. This formation is probably
repeated west of the quartzite ranges, and also in Cheshire and Sullivan counties.
The character of the strata, and the superabundance of feldspar, readily distinguishes
it from everything else.

Also, a few words about the "Concord granite," and the "mica schist"
of Rockingham county.

The "Concord granite" has been traced irregularly from Concord to Fitzwilliam.
It will require more detailed examinations to enable us to say positively where this
valuable band may be found. It seems to lie near the quartzite, say from a quarter to
half a mile above it. Hence, if it exists as a range, it should be adjacent to all the
quartzite bands, and its distribution can be determined readily in the manner suggested
above. A section across these ranges near Manchester shows a similar granite inside
both of them, while a protracted examination has failed to show the quartzite beyond
the west part of Concord. This rock is not a proper granite. There is an arrangement
of the particles of mica along parallel planes, which allows the rock to split readily.
These we regard as strata. They are seen plainly in the inferior qualities of the stone,
and farther south the celebrated "granite" of Pelham and Monson, Mass., shows the

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 55

strata perfectly. The latter appear to be identical with the Concord stone. Micro-
scopic sections, when available for study, will add much to our knowledge of this
variety of rock.

By scrutinizing the course of a band of rock closely packed with andalusite, it
appears probable that the valuable soapstone of Francestown is continuous into Weare,
as well as extending farther south-west. Outcrops have been found in four localities.
The soapstone of Richmond resembles it also, and seems to be on the same course.
Hon. M. A. Hodgdon, of Weare, has made an extensive excavation in this bed on Mt.
Misery, which throws considerable light on its character.

Mica Schist. This formation covers a great area in Rockingham and Strafford
counties. In general it is a simple compound of mica and quartz, resembling an
argillaceous rock at times, and often showing the mica in irregular blotches. It every-
where contains beds of a very coarse granite. In the south part of Rockingham, in
Barrington, Strafford, and elsewhere, the granite remains in ridges, while the schist has
decomposed, thus making one believe granite to be the prevailing rock of the country,
without careful search for the schist in the valleys.

The sienites of Exeter bound this group on the east. The Merrimack group seems
to be distinct from it, though the two have been confounded together heretofore.
This rock forms mountain masses in many towns. Such are the ridges between Hill's
Corner and Shaker Village in Canterbury, the Pinnacle and Bean hill in Northfield,
Catamount Mount in Pittsfield, Brush hill, McKays, Fort, and Nottingham mountains
in Epsom, Saddleback Mount in Northwood, Devil's Den in Auburn, ridges in Farm-
ington, etc. Narrow patches of mica schist occur resting in synclinal form on the
gneiss west of the Merrimack river, but it is of no use to attempt to represent them
at present.

Geological History of Winnipiseogee Lake.

The results of a tour in the vicinity of Winnipiseogee lake, in 1873, are
given in a lengthy paper read before the American Association for the
Advancement of Science, at Portland, in August. The greatest detail of
the sketch relates to the supposed appearance of the lake country in the
glacial and terrace periods, which need not be reproduced here. But I
desire to state the phase of opinion expressed in this communication
respecting the older groups. A large manuscript map illustrated to the
geologists at the meeting the distribution of the formations deposited in
the several periods enumerated. There are some new groups in this list.
We can trace no less than ten periods in the history of this lake basin :
1. Period of the deposition of the PorpJiyritic Gneiss or Granite. This
is the oldest formation in the state. A range of it starts southerly from

56 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Waterville, and proceeds south-westerly to Mt. Prospect, in Holderness.
Thence it courses more southerly, proceeding to New Hampton centre
village. In this vicinity it is developed more perfectly than in any other
part of the state. At the village it makes a sharp turn eastward to Mer-
edith Village ; thence north-easterly nearly to Squam lake, in the extreme
north-east part of Center Harbor. It then makes another sharp turn
down both sides of Meredith, or North-west Cove, and appears also on the
islands off Wiers and the north part of Gilford. It now rapidly dimin-
ishes in width, and finally disappears, coming up again in West Alton, and
is last seen in the south part of Alton.

2. Winnipiseogee Lake Gneiss formation. This is a granitic gneiss
filled with segregated veins, and has not yet been observed away from
the vicinity of the lake. It does not appear upon any mountains, nor in
bluffs, and has everywhere been greatly denuded, so that its ledges are
inconspicuous. It joins the first named rock everywhere on the east,
and covers it in Alton. The strata are highly inclined, and sometimes
inverted.

3. White Mountain Series. This rock is often characterized by the
presence of andalusite. It crops out in Gilford and Alton, and bounds
the lake gneiss on the east, where the junction is not obscured by over-
lying formations.

4. The next great period may represent the time of the elevation, and
pcrJiaps metamorpliosis, of the three groups already enumerated. We
possess no decided evidence to show that these three groups are uncon-
formable with one another. The presumption is that these groups belong
to the Laurentian system ; they are certainly Eozoic.

5. Eruption of the Granites of the Ossipee Mountains. In a paper
presented last year, a description was given of the rocks among the White
Mountains, where it was stated that the upturned edges of the White
Mountain series were covered first by a layer of coarse granite, and then
by a "trachytic" or spotted granite. Both these varieties are found in
the Ossipee mountains, and in a similar stratigraphical position.

6. Deposition of Felsites or Compact Feldspars. Enormous thicknesses
of variously colored felsites cover the spotted granite of Ossipee, and
form the summits of the pile of mountains. None of the ossipyte, a
compound of labradorite and chrysolite, has yet been seen. These

HISTORY OF GEOLOGICAL SURVEY. 57

granites and felsites together constitute a great series of formations,
which, I suppose, are the equivalents of the Labrador system of Logan.
He has not given the limits of his system ; but I retain the name sug-
gested by him for the group of granites and compact feldspars developed
so finely in New Hampshire. There is an extensive mass of granite in
Wolfeborough and New Durham, which may be connected with the
Labrador system, but its relations have not yet been made out with
certainty.

7. Eruption of Sienite. The Belknap Mountains, certain peaks in
Alton, Diamond island, and probably Rattlesnake island in Winnipiseogee
lake, and Red hill in Moultonborough and Sandwich, are composed of
sienite of various textures, which seems to have been erupted after the
deposition of the felsites. Its age is shown by the fact that it cuts the
ossipyte in Waterville.

8. Deposition of Mica Schists. This formation is enormously devel-
oped in Strafford and Rockingham counties, touching the lake only at
Alton Bay. It evidently covers all the formations thus far specified.

This is the last of the solid rocks in this area. There succeeds an
enormous interval of time, of which we have no record in New Hamp-
shire. The country must have been elevated, so that no deposits could
be formed. The interval embraces the principal portion of the fossil-
iferous rocks.

9. Glacier Period. The phenomena of this age about the lake are
striae, embossed ledges, pot-holes, beds of clay, boulder drift, etc. The
courses of the striae usually agree with that of the valley, or from
S. 25-3oE.

10. The Terrace Period. The presence of the ocean after the glacial
period over the lake may possibly be indicated by the existence of the
smelts in its waters, which are marine animals, possibly left behind when
the salt water disappeared. The terraces seem to indicate that the water
has stood successively at the heights of ioo, 80, 55, 30, 23, 15, and 12
feet, but never any higher. There may have been egress for the waters
in the direction of Squam lake, Gilford, and Alton.

Lengthy considerations are presented to show, by contrast to these
small lake terraces, the fluviatile origin of the large banks of sand and
gravel along the Merrimack river valley. The conclusions are of consid-
vol. 1. 8

58 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

erable importance, and will be fully developed in that part of our report
relating to surface geology.

Acknowledgments.

Thanks for favors received during the latter part of our work are
tendered to E. A. Phelps of Sharon, Vt, Sylvester Marsh and Capt. J.
W. Dodge of the Mt. Washington Railway, E. S. Coe of Bangor, Me.,
American Geographical and Statistical Society of New York, Dr. T.
Sterry Hunt of Boston, Prof. L. Agassiz of Cambridge, Mass., A. H. Perry
of Lyndonville, Vt., Gyles Merrill, St. Albans, Vt., George A. Merrill,
Rutland, Vt., O. T. Ruggles of Fitchburg, Mass., J. A. Dodge, Plymouth,
George Stark, Nashua, G. E. Todd, Concord, R. Stewart, Keene, Hon.
Onslow Stearns, Concord, Hon. J. A. Weston, Hon. S. N. Bell, Man-
chester, J. J. Bell of Exeter, the trustees of the New Hampshire College
of Agriculture and the Mechanic Arts, John F. Anderson, Portland, Me.,
T. Willis Pratt, Engineer of the Eastern railroad, Prof. H. F. Walling,
Boston, S. Aug. Nelson, Georgetown, Mass., Prentiss Dow, Claremont,

Wm. C. Fox, Wolfeborough, Messrs. Taft, Greenleaf, and Andrews of the
Profile house, Franconia, F. G. Sanborn, Boston, C. P. Whitney of Mil-
ford, Emmons Raymond, Boston, H. G. Chamberlain, Concord, C. J.
Brydges, Montreal, P. O., Henry Bailey and T. H. Cooper of the G. T.
R., A. K. Cole, Berlin Falls, L. P. Adley, Milan, E. Hicky, Stark, J. B.
Melcher, Groveton, Dr. G. O. Rogers, C. C. Brooks, and F. Richardson,
Lancaster, Geo. N. Merrill, Jackson, Geo. W. M. Pitman, Bartlett, Joshua
Chapman, Thornton, L. W. Palmer, Lyndonville, Vt., J. Prescott, Boston,
Hon. M. A. Hodgdon, Weare, Seneca A. Ladd, Meredith Village, G. F.
Morse, Portland, Me., Prof. J. D. Dana, ll. d., New Haven, Conn., and
others.

Fig. 6. ICE FORMED ON MT. WASHINGTON WITH SOUTH WIND.

CHAPTER IV.

HISTORY OF EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

COMPILED BY WARREN UPHA1I.

First Visits to Mt. Washington.

>HE early history of the White Mountains may well be of interest to
all who feel a pride in the beautiful scenery or in the material pros-
perity of this portion of our state. It is only a meagre record, however,
that we are able to present. Even the name of the first adventurer who
ascended these mountains was for some time uncertain. It was stated by
Dr. Belknap, in the early editions of his history of New Hampshire, that
Walter and Robert Neal were the first to climb the highest summit of the
White Mountains, in 163 1. This appears to be incorrect; and the error
was noticed by the author in the edition of 18 12. It is now considered
settled that this credit is to be assigned to Darby Field, of Pascataquack
(Portsmouth), who made the ascent, accompanied by two Indians, in June,
1642. An account of this has been preserved by Winthrop, from which
it appears that "within 12 miles of the top was neither tree nor grass,
but low savins, which they went upon the top of sometimes, but a con-
tinual ascent upon rocks, on a ridge between two valleys filled with snow,
out of which came two branches of Saco river, which met at the foot of
the hill, where was an Indian town of some 200 people. * * * By the
way, among the rocks, there were two ponds, one a blackish water, the
other a reddish. The top of all was plain, about 60 feet square. On

60 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

the north side was such a precipice as they could scarce discern to
the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on the top, and moderate
heat. * About a month after he went again, with five or six in

his company."* The appearance of the mountains is thus seen to have
been the same two hundred years ago as now ; but besides this descrip-
tion, Field brought back a glowing account of precious stones, &c, and
even of sheets of " Muscovy glass," or mica, forty feet long ! The enumer-
ation of these wonders was probably employed to collect the party for his
second expedition.

This inducement, also, says the historian, " caused divers others to
travel thither, but they found nothing worth their pains." Of these are
particularly mentioned Thomas Gorges and Mr. Vines, two magistrates
of the province of Sir Ferdinando Gorges, who went about the end of
August of the same year. " They went up Saco River in birch canoes,
and that way they found it 90 miles to Pegwaggett, an Indian town ;
but by land it is but 60. Upon Saco River they found many thousand
acres of rich meadow; but there are 10 falls, which hinder boats, &c.
From the Indian town they went up hill (for the most part) about 30
miles in woody lands. They then went about 7 or 8 miles upon shattered
rocks, without tree or grass, very steep all the way. At the top is a
plain about 3 or 4 miles over, all shattered stones ; and upon that is
another rock or spire, about a mile in height, and about an acre of ground
at the top. At the top of the plain arise four great rivers ; each of them
so much water at the first issue as would drive a mill : Connecticut
River from two heads at the N. W. and S. W., which join in one about
60 miles off ; Saco River on the S. E. ; Amascoggin, which runs into
Casco Bay, at the N. E. ; and Kennebeck at the N. by E. The moun-
tain runs E. and W. thirty miles, but the peak is above all the rest.
They went and returned in 15 days."f

The route taken by Field, and probably by the other explorers also,
lay from the Saco up Ellis river nearly to its source, and thence up the
great ridge south-east of Mt. Washington, known as Boott's Spur.
Tuckerman's ravine and Oakes's gulf, on either hand, are recognized as
the "two valleys filled with snow." The summit of this spur brought

* WintVirop, N. E., by Savage, ii., p. 67. f Wint'irop, ii. p. 89.

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 6 1

them to the broadest portion of the comparatively level tract at the
southern base of Mt. Washington, the south-eastern part of which is
the grassy expanse of some forty acres, known as Bigelow's Lawn.
Between this and the summit they encountered the Lake of the Clouds,
and smaller ponds, which no doubt furnished Gorges with a part of the
sources of his rivers ; and no one who has looked into the abyss some-
what absurdly denominated the " Gulf of Mexico," will wonder at its
notice in the brief account of the first explorer. E. Tuckerman, in 1843,
endeavored to trace the path of these earliest ascents, and was surprised
with a view of Mt. Washington as a somewhat regular pyramid rising
from an apparent plain, which is the way it was described by Gorges, and
afterwards by Josselyn. Davis's bridle-path, opened in 1845, traversed the
bold part of this ridge, and afforded the same view while it was in use.

The first mention of the White Mountains in print occurs in John
Josselyn's "New England's Rarities Discovered," which was published in
1672, containing the earliest notice of the botany of the country. The
materials for this and a subsequent work were collected by the author
during two visits to New England, coming first in 1638 and remaining
fifteen months, and again in 1663, remaining eight years. In his account
of the mountains, he describes a pond upon the highest summit, either
from a defect of memory, or because he was satisfied with seeing them
at a distance, without making the ascent, and mistook its position, as
described by explorers. "Four-score miles," says Josselyn, "to the North-
west of Scarborozv, a Ridge of Mountains runs North-west and North-east
an hundred leagues, known by the name of the White Mountains, upon
which lieth snow all the year, and is a Landmark twenty miles off at Sea.
It is rising ground from the seashore to these Hills, and they are inacces-
sible except by the Gullies which the dissolved Snow hath made. In these
Gullies grow Saven bushes, which, being taken hold of, are a good help
to the climbing discoverer. Upon the top of the highest of these Moun-
tains is a large Level or Plain, of a day's journey over, whereon nothing
grows but Moss. At the farther end of this Plain is another Hill called
the Sugarloaf, to outward appearance a rude heap of massie stones piled
one upon another ; and you may, as you ascend, step from one stone to
another as if you were going up a pair of stairs, but winding still about
the Hill till you come to the top, which will require half a day's time,

62 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

and yet it is not above a Mile, where there is also a Level of about
an Acre of ground, with a pond of clear water in the midst of it, which
you may hear run down, but how it ascends is a mystery. From this
rocky Hill you may see the whole country round about. It is far above
the lower clouds ; and from hence we beheld a Vapour (like a great Pillar)
drawn up by the Sun Beams out of a great Lake or Pond into the air,
where it was formed into a Cloud. The Country beyond these Hills
Northward is daunting terrible, being full of rocky Hills as thick as Mole-
hills in a Meadow, and cloathed with infinite thick Woods."* In his
"Voyages," published a year or two later, Josselyn corrects what he says
of the snow's lying the whole year upon the mountains, by excepting the
month of August, f

The "Voyages" contain an account of the Indian traditions which
clustered about our highest mountains. "Ask them," says Josselyn,
"whither they go when they dye, they will tell you, pointing with their
finger to Heaven, beyond the White Mountains ; and do hint at Noah's
Floud, as may be conceived by a story they have received from Father to
Son, time out of mind, that a great while agon their Countrey was
drowned, and all the People and other Creatures in it, only one Powaw
and his Webb, foreseeing the Floud, fled to the White Mountains, carrying
a hare along with them, and so escaped. After a while, the Powaw sent
the Hare away, who not returning, emboldened thereby, they descended,
and lived many years after and had many children, from whom the Coun-
trie was again filled with Indians." % None of the traditions of the
native tribes appear to have been so widespread as that of a flood ; and
many notices might be cited similar to this of the White Mountains.
Catlin describes a ceremony referring to this which he witnessed among
the Mandans, on the upper Missouri river, where the only survivor was
represented as white.

The next mention of explorations among the White Mountains is on
April 29, 1725, when "a ranging company ascended the highest mountain
on the N. W. part," probably the first ascent from this side. As was to
be expected, they found the snow deep and the Alpine ponds frozen. ||
Another ranging party being " in the neighborhood of the White

* N. E. Rarities Disc, p. 3. f Josselyn's Voyages, p. 55. % Ibid, p. 135. || Belknap, N. H., iii., p. 35.

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 63

Mountains, on a warm day in the Month of March, in 1 746, were alarmed
with a repeated noise, which they supposed to be the firing of guns. On
further search, they found it to be caused by rocks falling from the south
side of a steep mountain."* This is the first notice that we find of the
mighty force that has left its furrows and scars all through the mountains,
and which caused to be written the saddest page in their history.

Discovery of the White Mountain Notch.

It is supposed that the Indians were aware of the central pass through
the White Mountains, and took their captives through it to Canada ; but
its existence was unknown to the English at the time of the first settle-
ments of the Coos country. The value of these lands was thus very
much diminished on account of the wide circuit which must be made
either to east or west to communicate with the seaboard, so that it
became a matter of inquiry to the authorities of the state how a way
should be opened through this almost impassable chain. Its discovery
was made in 1771 by one Timothy Nash, a pioneer hunter who had
established himself in this solitary region. Climbing a tree on Cherry
mountain in search of a moose, he discovered, as he thought, the wished-
for pass. Steering for the opening, he soon struck the Saco river, a mere
brook, and, following down, stopped at what is now known as the gate
of the notch. Here the sharp rocks came so near together as to prevent
his following the stream ; but, seeing that by a reasonable expenditure
a road could be opened at the point, he scaled the cliffs and continued
on to Portsmouth. Here he made known his discovery to Governor
Wentworth. The wary governor, to test the practicability of the pass,
informed Nash that if he would bring him a horse down through the
gorge from Lancaster, he would grant him the tract of land now known
as Nash and Sawyer's location. To accomplish this, Nash admitted
a fellow hunter, Benjamin Sawyer, to a share in his trade. By means
of ropes they succeeded in getting the horse over the projecting cliff
and down the rugged pathway of the mountain torrent, and brought
him to the governor. When they saw the horse safely lowered on the
south side of the last projection, it is said that Sawyer, draining the last

*Belknar, N. H., iii, p. 27.

64 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

drop of rum from his junk bottle, and breaking it on the rock, called it
Sawyer's rock, by which name it has ever since been known. A road
was soon opened by the proprietors of lands in the upper Coos, and
settlers began to make their way into the immediate vicinity of the
mountains. Jefferson, Whitefield, Littleton, and Franconia were first
settled within two or three years after this date. A road was also com-
menced through the eastern, or Pinkham notch, in 1774, and Shelburne,
which included Gorham, received its first inhabitants in the following year.
The earliest articles of commerce taken through the notch have not
escaped mention. They appear to have been a barrel of tobacco, raised
at Lancaster, which was carried to Portsmouth, and a barrel of rum
which a company in Portland offered to any one who should succeed in
taking it through the pass. This was done by Captain Rosebrook, with
some assistance, though it was nearly empty, we are informed, "through
the politeness of those who helped to manage the affair." The difficulty
of communication was often the occasion of more serious want, and it
was no rare thing to suffer from scarcity of provisions. In 1800, the
inhabitants of Bethlehem were obliged to leave their occupations, go
into the woods, and cut and burn timber enough for a load of potash, with
which to procure provisions after a journey of one hundred and seventy
miles. The tenth turnpike of New Hampshire was incorporated in 1803,
to extend from the west line of Bartlett, through the White Mountain
notch, a distance of twenty miles. The original cost of the road was
forty thousand dollars, and the expense of repairs was large ; but it proved
a profitable investment. Strings of teams of half a mile in length were
sometimes seen winding through Conway on their route to Portland, the
great market at that time for all northern New Hampshire.

Visits of Scientific Parties.

Mt. Washington was ascended in July, 1784, "with a view to make
particular observations on the several phenomena which might occur,"
the party consisting of the Rev. Manasseh Cutler, of Ipswich, Mass., a
zealous member of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, the
Rev. Daniel Little, of Kennebunk, Me., also a member of the Academy,
and Col. John Whipple, of Jefferson (then Dartmouth), together with
others to the number of seven in all. They are said to have been "the

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 65

subject of much speculation" as they passed through Eaton and Conway.
Dr. Belknap, the early historian of the state, and Dr. Fisher, of Beverly,
Mass., were of this party, but neither of them succeeded in reaching the
summit. Dr. Fisher remained at the notch " to collect birds, and other
animal and vegetable productions." The objects of the expedition were
but partially attained. It happened unfortunately that thick clouds
covered the mountains nearly the whole time, so that the instruments,
which they had carried up with much labor, were rendered useless. They
made some unsatisfactory barometrical observations, but were unable to
test them in an attempted geometrical measurement from the base.
The barometer had suffered so much agitation that an allowance was
necessary, and the altitude was computed in round numbers at 5,500 feet
above the meadow in the valley below, and nearly 10,000 feet above the
level of the sea. This was no greater altitude than appears to have been
generally assigned to these mountains. Dr. Belknap, in 1792, gave his
opinion that these figures were too small, predicting "that whenever the
mountain can be measured with the requisite precision, it will be found
to exceed ten thousand feet, of perpendicular altitude, above the level of
the ocean."*

The plants of the upper region were now described for the first time,
but only in a general way. The following extract from a manuscript of
Dr. Cutler, which is quoted by Belknap, points out the more prominent
botanical features, as seen by the first scientific party: "There is evi-
dently the appearance of three zones, 1, the woods; 2, the bald, mossy
part; 3, the part above vegetation. The same appearance has been
observed on the Alps and all other high mountains. I recollect no grass
on the plain. The spaces between the rocks in the second zone and on
the plain are filled with spruce and fir, which perhaps have been growing
ever since the creation, and yet many of them have not attained a greater
height than three or four inches ; but their spreading tops are so thick and
strong as to support the weight of a man without yielding in the smallest
degree ; the snows and winds keeping the surface even with the general
surface of the rocks. In many places on the sides we could get glades of
this growth some rods in extent, when we could, by sitting down on our

* Belknap, N. H. iii, p. 33.
VOL. I. 9

66 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

feet, slide the whole length. The tops of the growth of wood were so
thick and firm as to bear us currently a considerable distance before we
arrived at the utmost boundaries, which were almost as well defined as
the water on the shore of a pond. The tops of the wood had the appear-
ance of having been shorn off, exhibiting a smooth surface from their
upper limits for a great distance down the mountain." " On the upper-
most rock" the letters "N. H." were engraved ; and a plate of lead bearing
the names of the party was deposited under a stone.

The route by which Cutler and his party reached the mountain is prob-
ably indicated by the stream which bears his name in Bigelow's narrative.
"In less than half a mile southward from this fountain," that is, of Ellis
river, at the height of land between the Saco and the Androscoggin, in
Pinkham woods, "a large stream, which runs down the highest of the
White Mountains, falls into Ellis river; and, in about the same distance
from this, another falls from the same mountain. The former of these
streams is Cutler's river, the latter New river." This name is said to
have been applied to the stream at Dr. Cutler's express wish.

A "Second Scientific Visit" was made in 1804 by Dr. Cutler, who was
accompanied by W. D. Peck, afterwards professor of natural history at
Cambridge, Mass. Barometrical observations made on this occasion, and
computed by Mr. Bowditch, gave to Mt. Washington an elevation of 7,055
feet above the sea. A collection of the Alpine plants was made by Dr.
Peck, and was afterwards seen by Mr. Pursh, in whose " Flora of North
America," printed in 18 14, many of the most interesting species were
described. Naturalists soon began to give special attention to the
peculiar Arctic flora and fauna of these mountains. A quite complete
enumeration and description of the ph?enogamous plants, together with a
statement of much concerning their mineralogy and zoology appeared in
Dr. Bigelow's "Account of the White Mountains of New Hampshire,"
published in 18 16, from explorations made during the same season. Dr.
Francis Boott, Mr. Francis C. Gray, and the venerable Chief Justice Shaw
were members of this party. The barometrical observations which they
obtained gave 6,225 f ee t above the sea. This visit was made in June ; and
Dr. Boott made a second visit the succeeding month, adding a considera-
ble number of species to the botanical collections. The ascent was from
the eastern pass, following Cutler's river. In 18 19, Abel Crawford opened

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 67

a footway to Mt. Washington, following the south-western ridge. This,
and the new road made two years later by Ethan Allen Crawford along
the Ammonoosuc, subsequently became the more common ways of
ascending the mountains. Botanists were gainers by this change,
especially those whose work was carried on without camping out, as
these routes enabled them to examine the finest localities for Alpine
plants while on their way to the summit. An account of the expedition
of 1 8 1 6 appeared in the New England jfotirnal of Medicine and Surgery
for November of the same year.

Maps, Surveys, and Names.

The first and only map of New Hampshire issued under the direction
of the state authorities, was that of Philip Carrigain, published in 1816.
The author's name is still preserved at the White Mountains, as that of
the noblest of the peaks upon the east branch of the Pemigewasset, too
distant, however, from settlements to be often visited by tourists. This
map notices that recent barometrical calculations give 7,162 feet above the
sea as the height of the White Mountains ; and states that, being below
the line of perpetual congelation, which must be 7,200 feet lower than in
Europe on the same parallel, they cannot exceed 7,800 feet The author
then somewhat incorrectly adds, "After every abridgment of the here-
tofore exaggerated estimates of their altitude, it will be found doubly to
exceed that of any mountain in the United States other than those of
New Hampshire." The Franconia and Mt. Washington ranges, with
intervening ranges and peaks, are laid down on this map ; but no names
are applied to individual summits throughout this central area of the
White Mountains, with the exception of Lafayette, which is called
"Great Haystack." The prominent mountains which stand on guard
just outside this area, however, were already distinguished by the same
names as now. We find " Pigwacket Mt., formerly Kiarsarge ; " " Corway
Peak Mt." (Chocorua); also, "Corway" pond and river; and, on the west,
Kinsman's Mt. and "Moosehillock" Mt. The latter is in the town of
"Coventry," changed to Benton in 1840. Albany, Woodstock, Carroll,
Randolph, and Jackson are designated by the names Burton, Peeling,
Breton Woods, Durand, and Adams. The name of "Merrimack River, or
Pemigewasset Br.," is applied to that stream above Franklin ; while the

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

East Branch is marked "Merrimack R." The names Hancock Br. and
"Mooseliillock" Br., and the old form Ammariscoggin, are also found on
this map. In his short notice of the productions and natural features
of the state, the author remarks, referring to its lake and mountain
scenery, " It may be called the Switzerland of America," a term which
has been generally adopted in descriptions of New Hampshire.

The first carefully prepared map of the White Mountains was published
by Prof. G. P. Bond, of Cambridge, Mass., in 1853, from original triangu-
lation. The history of the efforts of the geological survey to secure
more perfect maps of this region, with the result of these labors, is given
in another part of this work.

I1H

Fig. 7. LANCASTER AND THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

Considerable interest appears to have been awakened as to the altitude
of these mountains, on account of the conflicting results of barometrical
measurements; and we find that in July, 1820, a party of engineers and
others from Lancaster visited the whole range between the notch and
Mt. Madison, and, on a second visit, measured the altitudes with a spirit

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 69

level. The first party consisted of Adino N. Brackett, John W. Weeks,
Gen. John Wilson, Charles J. Stuart, Noyes S. Dennison, and Samuel A.
Pearson, of Lancaster, with Philip Carrigain and E. A. Crawford, the
latter acting as pilot and baggage-carrier. This party gave names to Mts.
Pleasant, Franklin, Monroe, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison. They called
the Lake of the Clouds " Blue pond ; " and the locality since named after
Bigelow was by them called " Carrigain's lawn." The dead, gnarled trees,
which are especially conspicuous on Moosilauke and common on all the
mountains, received special notice. They were called by some members
of the party buck's horns, and by others bleached bones. The cause of the
death of these trees they supposed to have been the cold seasons which
prevailed from 1812 to 18 16, saying, "It can hardly be doubted that
during the whole of the year 18 16 these trees continued frozen." This
was the year long remembered as the "year without a summer." About
a month after this visit, Weeks, Stuart, and Brackett, accompanied by
Richard Eastman, spent seven days in levelling to the tops of all these
mountains from Lancaster, encamping on them four nights ; that of
August 31st on the summit of Mt. Washington. They must have been
the first party who ever spent the night upon the summit. They made
Mt. Washington 6,428 feet above the sea, or 5,850 feet above the river at
Lancaster. An interesting account of these visits is found in the " New
Hampshire Historical Collections" for 1823. During the year following
these visits, Capt. Partridge again computed the height of Mt. Washing-
ton from barometrical observations, giving 6,234 f eer - The observations
of Dr. C. T. Jackson, in 1840, were quite accurate for the difference in
height between Mt. Washington and the notch. Correcting the error for
the height of the notch, his figures would stand 6,303, instead of 6,228,
only ten feet in excess of the correct height. Prof. Arnold Guyot, in
185 1, from barometrical observations, gives the figures of 6,291 feet. In
his memoir of the "Appalachian Mountain System," published in 1861, he
has altered these figures to 6,288. In 1853, Capt. T. J. Cram levelled to
the summit of Mt. Washington, under the direction of the United States
Coast Survey, and reported its height to be 6,293 feet, which may be
assumed to be the true altitude.

The Indians are said to have been restrained by awe and fear from
climbing to the summits of these mountains. Their traditions repre-

JO PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

sented that here was the residence of the Great Spirit, who, with a
motion of the hand, could raise a storm and destroy the daring adven-
turer who presumed to approach his abode. They never felt, amid the
sublimity and awfulness of the mountains, that sense of ownership and
appropriation which was inspired by rivers and lakes, with their calmer
beauty and life-sustaining productiveness. Thus, while solitary mountains
throughout the state, like nearly all the rivers, still preserve the names of
their ancient baptism, always the last memorial of a departed race, the
central portion of the White Mountains is wholly English in name and
associations. We do not know that the Indians distinguished them by
any other than a collective name. This, according to Dr. Belknap, was
AgiococJiook in one dialect, and in another Waumbekket-Methna, signify-
ing Mountains with snowy foreheads. The English name White Moun-
tains we meet in the earliest account of them that was published. It is
not improbable that this name was applied to them while as yet they
were only known to adventurous mariners in their exploring voyages
along the coast.

It is impossible to ascertain with certainty who first proposed to call
the highest of these summits Mt. Washington. Dr. Belknap, in 1792,
says of it, "it has lately been distinguished by the name of Mount
Washington." He quotes from the manuscript of Dr. Cutler, in another
place, the account of the zones of vegetation, where mention is made of
" Mount Washington" as if it were well known. As his visit was made
in 1784, it is not unlikely that the name was proposed soon after the
close of the revolutionary war, probably by Dr. Cutler's party. Of other
prominent peaks, besides those named by the party of 1820, Mt. Clinton
received its name from some undiscoverable source, certainly before 1837.
Mts. Clay and Jackson were named by Mr. Oakes. This gentleman was
with Prof. Tuckerman, and sent up his guide, Amasa Allen, to build a
fire on the top of the south spur of Clinton ; and thus, with a fiery bap-
tism, the mountain was christened Jackson. Mt. Willard was named
from Mr. Sidney W'illard, of Boston ; and it is probable that the name of
Mt. Webster was proposed by Mr. Willard for the peak known to earlier
visitors as Notch mountain. Lower down the Saco, Mts. Crawford and
Resolution, as well as the Giant's stairs, received names from Dr. S. A.
Bemis. The names of Tuckerman's ravine, Oakes's gulf, and Bigelow's

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 7 1

lawn were given, in honor of three eminent botanists who had particu-
larly distinguished themselves in the study of the White Mountain flora,
to three fine localities of plants as well as marked topographical features.
It is difficult to ascertain the origin of many of the names of natural
objects about the mountains. Dr. Bemis has perhaps applied more
appellations than any other person to these features. Other names
have been given by chance visitors, and preserved by usage among
guides.

No Indian legends remain about the mountains, and but few localities
have a particular history. There is one cascade, however, about a quarter
of a mile from the former residence of old Abel Crawford, which is more
distinguished by the sad story associated with it, than by the picturesque-
ness of the crags through which it hurries for the last mile of its descent.
It is called "Nancy's brook." Here, late in the autumn of 1788, a young
woman, who had lived with a family in Jefferson, was found frozen to death.
She was engaged to be married to a man who was employed in the same
family where she served, and had entrusted to him all her earnings, with
the understanding that in a few clays they should leave for Portsmouth
to be married there. During her temporary absence at Lancaster, nine
miles distant, the man started with his employer for Portsmouth, leaving
no explanation or message for her. She learned the fact of her deser-
tion on the same day, and at once walked back to Jefferson, tied up a
small bundle of clothing, and, in spite of all warnings and entreaties,
set out on foot to overtake them. The distance to the notch was thirty
miles, with no settlement on the way, the only road being a hunter's path
marked by spotted trees. It had been snowing, but she pressed on over
this road through the night, in the hope of overtaking her lover at the
camp in the notch before the party should start in the morning. She
reached it soon after they had left, and it appeared to those who, alarmed
for her safety, had followed on from Jefferson to overtake her, that she
had tried in vain to rekindle the fire in the lonely camp. Failing in this,
she had hurried on, climbing the wild pass of the notch, and following
the track of the Saco towards Conway. Several miles of the roughest
part of the way she travelled thus, often fording the river. But her
strength was spent by two or three hours of such toil ; and she was
found by the party in pursuit of her, chilled and stiff in the snow, at the

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

foot of an aged tree near " Nancy's bridge," not many hours after she
had ceased to breathe.

Early Settlements.

President Dwight, of Yale college, visited the notch in 1797, and
again in 1803, and has left in his "Travels" an appreciative description of
the White Mountain scenery, besides some account of the early settlers
of this region. The two prominent names are those of Eleazer Rose-
brook and Abel Crawford. Mr. Rosebrook was a pioneer from Grafton,
Mass., whence he removed to Lancaster about 1 772 ; he finally settled at
Monadnock, now Colebrook. Here he was fully thirty miles from any
inhabitant, with no path to his cabin excepting blazed trees. During the
revolutionary war he removed to Guildhall, Vt., in order to place his
family in the neighborhood of settlements, being absent from them most
of the time in the military service of the frontier. In 1792, he sold his
fine farm on the Connecticut, and once more sought the wilderness,
removing, in the depth of winter, to Nash & Sawyer's location. Here he
soon built a large two-story house, at the base of what was known as the
Giant's grave, occupying nearly the same site as the present Fabyan
house. He also built a saw-mill and grist-mill, and large barns, stables,

Fig. 8. giant's grave.

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 73

and sheds. He had hardly become comfortably situated, however, when
a cancer broke out on his lip, and after a few years of intense suffering,
which was patiently borne, he died September 27th, 18 17. "In all
respects Mr. Rosebrook was a remarkable man. He loved the rugged
scenes of pioneer life, and was never more in his element than while
scaling the mountain, or trapping the wolf or bear. There are men
enough who prefer the city, and cling fondly around their native village ;
but he could never endure the restraints connected with our larger settle-
ments, the restraints of artificial life ; but freely, his anus and broad
chest all bare, he must breathe the strong, pure air, as it came rushing
along through these mountain gorges."

Abel Crawford, who married Capt. Rosebrook's daughter, and who is
remembered as the "patriarch of the mountains," also came from Guild-
hall a few years later, locating himself twelve miles farther south, near
the site of the present Mt. Crawford house. In 1840, at the age of
seventy-five, he made the first horseback ascent to the top of Mt. Wash-
ington. Dr. C. T. Jackson, state geologist, was a member of the same
party. Mr. Crawford died at the advanced age of eighty-five. For sixty
years he had been acquainted with this region, and had seen the gradual
process of civilization applied to the wilderness from upper Bartlett to
Bethlehem. So long had he been accustomed to travellers during the
summer months, that he felt he could not die without seeing them arrive
once more. " He used to sit, in the warm spring days, supported by his
daughter, his snow-white hair falling to his shoulders, waiting for the first
ripple of that large tide which he had seen increasing in volume for
twenty years. Not long after the stages began to carry their summer
freight by his door, he passed away."

His son, Ethan Allen Crawford, succeeded to the estate of Capt. Rose-
brook ; but the ample buildings which the latter had reared were soon after
burned to the ground. For many years the Crawfords were the only ones
to entertain strangers at the mountains. All the bridle-paths on the west
side were cut by them, the first of which, made for a foot-path in 1821,
extended from the Rosebrook place, nearly seven miles, to the foot of Mt.
Washington, following the Ammonoosuc river. It was afterwards known
as "Fabyan's road." It was in this year that ladies first climbed to the
summit. They were three in number, sisters, the Misses Austin, of

VOL. I. IO

74 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Portsmouth. With a firm determination to obtain a fine prospect, they
remained four days near the top in a small stone cabin, until the weather
became propitious. With the beginning of the present century, visitors
to the White Mountains increased in number. In 1819, the number
averaged ten or twelve annually ; and the pioneer settlers began to pro-
vide means for their accommodation. Abel Crawford and his sons were
the efficient guides of the early visitors ; and many traditions are still
current of their skill and strength, both as guides and hunters. They
were all of the largest stature; and Ethan Allen, known as the "giant of
the mountains," was nearly seven feet in height. With additional facili-
ties, the number of visitors gradually increased, so that in 1858 it was
estimated that five thousand annually ascended the various bridle-paths.
In 1870, the number was estimated at seven thousand, of whom five
thousand registered their names at the Tip-top house.

Of all the adventurous lives which have been passed among the
shadows of these mountains, perhaps none exceeds, in thrilling interest
and remarkable contrasts, that of Ethan Allen Crawford, whom we have
already had occasion several times to mention. A considerable " History
of the White Mountains," with his experiences and reminiscences, has
been left us by his own hand. Many of the wisest and most distin-
guished of the country were entertained under his rude roof, who grate-
fully remembered his hospitality and his faithful service in guiding them
to the great ridge. He would come home from a bear-fight to find in his
house, perhaps, "a member of congress, Daniel Webster," who desired his
assistance on foot to the summit of Mt. Washington. Ethan says that
they went up "without meeting anything worthy of note, more than was
common for me to find; but to him things appeared interesting. And
when we arrived there he addressed himself in this way, saying, 'Mt.
Washington, I have come a long distance, and have toiled hard to arrive
at your summit, and now you give me a cold reception. I am extremely
sorry that I shall not have time enough to view this grand prospect which
lies before me ; and nothing prevents but the uncomfortable atmosphere
in which you reside.' " The snow from a sudden squall froze upon them
as they descended. The statesman had evidently become interested in
his guide, for Ethan adds that " the next morning, after paying his bill, he
made me a handsome present of twenty dollars."

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 75

The fire which destroyed his buildings left him heavily oppressed by
debts, a burden which he was never able to throw off. His crops were
swept away, and his meadows filled with sand by freshets. Other forms
of adversity, too, beset him. Before middle life, his own powerful frame
was so shaken by disease and pain that a flash of lightning, he would
sometimes say, seemed to run from his spine to the ends of his hair. But
the example of his wife taught him how to meet calamity and distress
without despair and repining. He was put in jail at last, in Lancaster,
for debt. She wrote a pleading letter to his chief creditor to release him,
but without effect. "This," says Ethan, "forced me, in the jail, to reflect
on human nature, and it overcame me so that I was obliged to call for the
advice of physicians and a nurse." Broken in health, oppressed by
pecuniary burdens, and with shattered spirits, he left the plateau at the
base of Mt. Washington for a more pleasant home in Vermont. But
he experienced hard fortune there, too, and returned to die within sight
of the range, an old man, before he had reached the age of fifty-six years.

"Since the breaking up of his home at the Giant's grave," says T. Stan-
King, "the mountains have heard no music which they have echoed so
heartily as the windings of his horn, and the roar of the cannon which he
used to load to the muzzle, that his guests might hear a park of artillery
reply. Few men that have ever visited the mountains have done more
faithful work, or borne so much adversity and suffering. The cutting of
his heel-cord with an axe, when he was chopping out the first path up Mt.
Washington, was a type of the result to himself of his years of toil in
the wilderness ; and his own quaint reflection on that wound, which
inflicted lameness upon him for months, is the most appropriate inscrip-
tion, after the simple words, 'an honest man,' that could be reared over
his grave : ' So it is that men suffer various ways in advancing civiliza-
tion ; and, through God, mankind are indebted to the labors of men in
many different spheres of life.'"

At about the same time with the settlement of the Crawfords, a
tract of land three miles below the mouth of the notch was first
improved by a Mr. Davies ; this was the farm afterwards occupied by
Mr. Willey. In describing his second visit to this place, President
Dwight has preserved a record of one of the great fires which have
devastated the mountains of the notch. "When we entered upon this

y6 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

farm in 1803, a fire, which not long before had been kindled in its skirts,
had spread over an extensive region of the mountains on the north-east,
and consumed all the vegetation, and most of the soil, which was chiefly
vegetable mould, in its progress. The whole tract, from the base to the
summit, was alternately white and dappled ; while the melancholy remains
of half-burnt trees, which hung here and there on the immense steeps,
finished the picture of barrenness and death." Old Mr. Crawford is said
to have been accustomed, about the year 1845, t0 refer to the great fire
which reduced Mt. Crawford to its present condition, as occurring some
thirty years before. A similar fire, occurring seventy or eighty years
ago and burning for several weeks, is said to have produced the barren
aspect of Mt. Monadnock, in the south-west part of the state. The
time may arrive when the record of these irreparable mischiefs, destroy-
ing the vitality of the mountains and leaving only naked and desolate
rocks, shall possess a mournful value.

Several years after this visit by Dwight, the house was built upon the
Davies farm by a Mr. Henry Hill, which is yet standing, being familiarly
known as the "Willey house," and interesting as a monument of the
fearful tragedy which occurred here August 28th, 1826. In the autumn
of 1825, Mr. Samuel Willey with his family moved into this house. In
the June following, a slide occurred near them upon the mountain, since
called "Mt. Willey," which rose at a threatening angle some two thousand
feet, with its base close behind the house. This, which was the warning
of the impending disaster, at first greatly alarmed the family, and they
resolved to remove from the notch. But Mr. Willey, on reflection, felt
confident that such an event was not likely to occur again, and was satis-
fied with building a place of shelter to which the family might fly, if
another slide seemed to threaten their home. Later in the summer there
was a long hot drought, by which the earth had been dried to an unusual
depth, thus preparing the surface to be operated on more powerfully by a
sudden and copious rain. This began to fall on Sunday, the 27th of
August ; and on the next day the storm was very severe, especially in the
vicinity of the mountains. On the morning of Tuesday the sun rose in
a cloudless sky, and the air was remarkably transparent. During the
preceding night the Saco had risen twenty-four feet, and swept the whole
interval between the notch and Conway. The storm had wrought with

o
5

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

a terrible effect upon the sides of the Mt. Washington range. The
whole line was devastated by land-slides. A party ascending the Ammo-
noosuc soon after, counted thirty along their path, some of which ravaged
more than a hundred acres of the wilderness. On the declivities towards
North Conway, it was thought that this one storm dismantled more of
the great range than all the rains of a hundred years before. As soon
as the fate of the Willey family became known, relatives at Conway, and
many neighbors, hurried to the notch. An immense slide had come
down the mountain directly towards the house, but had been divided by
a huge boulder thirty feet high, in the rear of the buildings, uniting again
in front. A portion of the stable had been swept away. The doors of
the house were all open, and beds and clothing showed that the family
had hurriedly left. They had probably fled from the only place of safety
at just the moment to be overwhelmed in the terrible pathway of the

Fig. 9. THE WILLEY SLIDE AND MONUMENT.

slide. The whole family, Mr. Willey, his wife, and five children, together
with two hired men, had perished. Search for the bodies was at once
commenced. The first found was that of one of the hired men, David
Allen, a man of powerful frame and remarkable strength. He was found

78 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

near the top of a pile of earth and shattered timbers, with "hands
clenched, and full of broken sticks and small limbs of trees." The bodies
of Mrs. Willey and her husband were also discovered, but so crushed as
to be hardly recognized. Rude coffins were prepared, and the next day,
Friday, about sunset, they were buried in a single wide grave, and the
simple burial service was offered, amid the solemnity and desolation of
the mountains. The bodies of two of the children and the other hired
man, David Nickerson, were found a day or two after, and also buried,
but the remaining three children were never discovered.

A e>

Hotels, and Modes of Ascent.

Soon after the completion of the rude bridle-path in 1 821, by Ethan
Crawford, it was perceived that a house of some sort was needed upon
the summit, where visitors could spend the night. Hence Mr. Crawford
constructed a stone cabin near the top of Mt. Washington, by the side of
a spring. In this was spread an abundance of soft moss for beds ; and
thus travellers were enabled to view the setting and rising of the sun.
After a while a small stove was brought up, with an iron chest and a
long roll of sheet lead. The chest was the receptacle for the camping
blankets, and the lead was the register for visitors. Every winter this
house was seriously damaged. The roof would be blown away, and the
stones fall down from the walls, the chest and stove remaining, sadly
rusted. Finally, at the great storm of August 28, 1826, when the Willey
family were destroyed, this cabin, with the iron chest and the blankets,
was swept down the steep slope and lost. A party had taken possession
for the night, but were terrified by the violence of the storm, and had
hastened down the mountain just in time to save their lives.

In 1852, J. S. Hall and L. M. Rosebrook built the Summit house on
the very top of the mountain. It is twenty-four by sixty-four feet, quite
low, with very thick walls of stone firmly cemented together, and bolted
down to the solid rock. Over the roof are four strong cables. This
house has now stood for more than twenty years.

A year later the Tip-top house was built by Samuel F. Spalding & Co.
It is twenty-eight by eighty-four feet, and was built in the same substan-
tial manner as the other. These two houses were originally under
different management, but after 1859 they were both leased by the

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 79

proprietor of the Alpine house, in Gorham ; and many thousand people
remember their stay here as one of the novel experiences of the mountain
tour. Within two years the Mt. Washington house, a new and very
commodious hotel building, provided with all the modern improvements,
and quite in contrast with the former accommodations, has been erected
on the summit. It was first opened to the public in the summer of 1873,
averaging about one hundred guests daily. J. E. Lyon and Walter Aiken
are understood to be the proprietors; and the manager is Capt. J. W.
Dodge.

There has been a controversy concerning the ownership of the land
upon the summit of Mt. Washington. In the early legislation of New
Hampshire respecting the unoccupied lands of the state, little attention
was paid to exact boundaries ; consequently, each of the two parties
claiming the summit had reason to believe it to be included within their
limits. Mr. Bellows, of Exeter, owns the land upon the east side, and
was the party in possession till about fifteen years ago, when his tenants
were ejected by the sheriff acting for Coe & Pingree, of Bangor, Me., and
Salem, Mass. Probably more than twenty-five thousand dollars was
spent in contesting the matter of ownership before the courts, which has
since been settled through purchase, by Coe & Pingree, of all the rights
and claims of the former occupant.

The first good public house for summer visitors was built near
the Giant's grave, about seven miles west from the base of Mt. Wash-
ington, and came into the hands of Mr. Fabyan. This was destroyed
by fire about twenty years since. The Fabyan house, a large and ele-
gant hotel, has been recently built at this place, the Giant's grave being
levelled down for its reception. It was first opened to guests in 1873.
The well known White Mountain house, about a mile west from
this place, was built by Mr. Rosebrook, a descendant of the pioneer of
that name, about thirty years since. About four miles farther west, fol-
lowing the Ammonoosuc river, we come to the Twin Mountain house, one
of the finest and most complete of the mountain hotels. The Notch
house, kept by T. J. Crawford, is no longer in existence ; but its place has
been more than made good by the large and well kept hotel, a quarter of
a mile farther north, known as the Crawford house. At the foot of the Mt.
Washington Railway is the Marshfield house, a smaller but comfortable

80 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

hotel, with accommodations for fifty guests. Upon the east side is the
Glen house, at the lower end of the carriage-road. This, and the Fabyan
house, are the largest hotels near Mt. Washington, either being capa-
ble of accommodating five hundred guests at one time. The Profile and
Flume houses, among the Franconia Mountains, and the large and well
appointed hotels of Plymouth, Littleton, Bethlehem, Lancaster, Jefferson,
North Conway, and other places, too numerous for particular mention
here, show the popularity of this portion of our state as a summer
resort.

There are now three ways of ascending Mt. Washington from below,
two from the west and one from the east ; or, a railway, a carriage-road,
and a bridle-path. In 1840, the bridle-path to the summit was cut from
the notch over Mts. Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, to Washing-
ton, being nine miles in length. It affords a magnificent panorama of
mountain scenery, passing along over the treeless, wind-swept summits
of the range ; but, on account of its tiresomeness, few now ascend by this
route. A still longer bridle-path was soon afterwards opened by Mr.
Davis over Mt. Crawford, and thence along the east side of Dry, or Mt.
Washington river, but it is now wholly disused. Still later, the bridle-
path first opened by Ethan Crawford from the Giant's grave to " Cold
spring," or the base of Washington, was enlarged and became a carriage-
road. This was in use, though kept in poor repair, till it was superseded
by the " Fabyan turnpike," in 1866. It terminated about a quarter of a
mile higher up the mountain than the lower depot of the railway, known
as "Ammonoosuc," formerly " Marshfield."

In June, 1853, a company was chartered to build a carriage-road from
the Glen to the Tip-top house, with a capital stock of fifty thousand
dollars. The length of this road is a little less than eight miles. By the
original design it was to be sixteen feet wide, macadamized, and to have
a protection wall three feet high in dangerous places. Its average grade
is twelve feet in one hundred, and the steepest is about sixteen feet in
one hundred, two and a half miles from the Glen. The work of its con-
struction was commenced in 1855, under the superintendence of C. H.
V. Cavis, engineer. It was carried as far as the " ledge," or half way, in
1856, and in 1861 it was completed to the summit. There is a small
house on this road half way up the mountain, at the point where the

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 8 1

trees terminate and the arctic zone commences. This is occupied in
summer by a force of laborers, by whom the roadway is kept in a first-
rate condition. But the greatest triumph of engineering" skill is on the
west side of the mountain, and was first projected while the carriage-
road was in process of construction, but was not realized till several
years later.

The first effort, in the direction of ascending Mt. Washington by steam-
power, was made by Mr. Sylvester Marsh, now residing at Littleton, N.
H., and the president of the Mt. Washington Railway Company. He
invented the special contrivances needed to adapt motive machines to a
highly inclined plane. It was found very difficult at the outset to con-
vince mechanicians and capitalists of the feasibility of this ascending
railway. Mr. Marsh commenced the work, relying chiefly upon his own
private resources, and little encouragement was afforded by capitalists
till an engine was actually running over a portion of the route. In 1858
the application was made to the legislature of New Hampshire to grant
a charter for a steam railway from their bases to the summits of Mts.
Washington and Lafayette. A model of the invention was exhibited,
and it was stated that the petitioner and his friends would assume the
expense of the enterprise. After considerable ridicule, this charter was
charitably granted, with the usual formula of railroad laws in the state.
The actual work of construction was delayed for a number of years. As
a preliminary operation it was found desirable to build the new turnpike,
already noticed, from the stage road to the point where the ascent by
rail should commence, upon which work was begun in April, 1 866. Some
five miles from the starting-point this road passes through a clearing of
perhaps a hundred acres, called " Twin River Farm." This spot is about
five hundred feet above the White Mountain house, and is spoken of as
possibly the site of the future junction of the Mt. Washington Railway
with the extension of the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad branch
from near Littleton, now nearly completed to the Fabyan house.

The Mt. Washington railroad was commenced in May, 1866. It starts
from a point 2,668 feet above the level of the sea, and 3,625 below the
summit. The distance traversed is two miles and thirteen sixteenths.
The average grade is 1,300 feet to the mile, the maximum being 1,980
feet to the mile, or thirteen and a half inches to the yard. There are
vol. 1. 11

82 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

nine curves on the line, varying from 497 to 945 feet radius. The first
year the road was built a distance of about a quarter of a mile. In
1867 the track was extended to "Waumbek Junction," where it crosses
Fabyan's foot-path, a distance of one mile and eight rods. Work was
resumed May 7, 1 868, and in eighty-four working days it had advanced
more than a mile, or to the top of "Jacob's Ladder." The work was.
continued till cold weather set in, and the last few rods of the track was
laid in July, 1 869. The road was built under the superintendence of J. J.
Sanborn, of Franklin, N. H., at a total cost, including depots, turn-outs,
and rolling stock, of about $150,000. The indispensable peculiarity of
this railway is its central cog-rail, which consists of two pieces of wrought
angle iron, three inches wide and three eighths of an inch thick, placed
upon their edges, parallel to each other, and connected by strong iron
pins an inch and a half in diameter, and four inches apart from centre to
centre. The teeth of the driving wheel of the engine play into the
spaces between the bolts, and, as it revolves, the whole engine is made to
move, resting upon the outer rails. These cog-rails cost about two dol-
lars per foot, delivered at the base of the mountain. The appliances for
stopping trains are of the most perfect kind. Both friction and atmos-
pheric brakes are employed, and their complete reliability has been
proved by the severest tests. The speed of descent is entirely regulated
by their means without the use of steam. The engines employed have
been built by Walter Aiken, of Franklin, N. H., each weighing six and a
half tons, and rated at about fifty horse-power ; but on account of their
gearing they are practically two hundred horse-power. When moving,
the engine always takes the down-hill end of the train. While this rail-
way was in process of construction it was visited by a Swiss engineer,
who took away drawings, etc., of the machinery and track, from which a
similar road has been since built upon Mt. Rhigi in Switzerland : and
thus we have set an example worthy of imitation to an older country.
This road has a double track, and its length and grades are about the
same as upon Mt. Washington.

Casualties upon Mt. Washington.

Before the construction of these improved and even luxurious methods
of ascent, several persons had lost their lives in attempting to climb this

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 8$

mountain, generally in consequence of neglecting the advice of guides.
The first was an English baronet, named Strickland. He went up from
the notch late in October, 185 1. Disregarding the advice of his guide,
he pushed on to the summit, proposing to descend by Fabyan's path.
He seems to have become bewildered, and, after falling down precipitous
places several times, to have perished from cold and exhaustion, probably
in less than twelve hours after he started.

On the 24th of September, 1855, Miss Lizzie Bourne, of Kennebunk,
Me., perished within thirty rods of the summit. With an uncle and cousin
she climbed the mountain on foot ; but after reaching the Half-way house
the clear sky disappeared ; they became enveloped in a thick cloud, and
strong winds met them in front. Not knowing their nearness to the
summit, they were compelled to shelter themselves behind a few rough
stones ; and Miss Bourne was not strong enough to survive the shock.
A pyramid of stones close to the railroad marks the spot.

August 7th, 1856, Benjamin Chandler, of Wilmington, Del., started
from the Glen house for the summit late in the afternoon. It was rainy,
windy, and very cold. He was about seventy-five years of age. He
seems to have wandered from the path, but no one knows how long he
survived. His remains were not found for more than a year, when they
were accidentally discovered about half a mile east of the summit.

The most terrible exposure which any person has survived upon Mt.
Washington was that of Dr. B. L. Ball, of Boston, late in October, 1855.
This gentleman walked from the Glen house to the Half-way house,
while workmen were engaged in building the carriage-road. The moun-
tain was covered with clouds, and, after climbing some distance above
the "ledge," he returned to the camp and spent the night with the
laborers. The next morning the clouds seemed about breaking, and he
started with the intention of reaching the summit if possible. The rain
was changed to sleet and snow, and the temperature fell very much.
Though very uncomfortable, Dr. Ball believed himself to be near the
summit, and struggled on, understanding that he could find provisions
and shelter in one of the houses there. He describes the storm as fol-
lows: "I could not have believed that the storm could be more violent
than it had been. Yet here it was more furious than ever. It now had
the full sweep of the mountain top, the highest point of the whole group,

84 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

of the loftiest mountain for hundreds of miles around. If ten hurricanes
had been in deadly strife with each other it could have been no worse.
The winds, as if locked in mortal embrace, tore along, whirling and twist-
ing, and mingling their roaring with the flinty rattling of the snow grains
in one confused din." Dr. Ball did not, however, actually reach the sum-
mit, and, after many hours spent in the endeavor, buffeting the storm, he
was obliged to abandon his purpose, and set out to descend. But his
footprints had been obliterated by the storm, and, losing his way, he
found himself unable to judge from what direction he had come. He
pursued his way downward, however, till he reached the stunted and
tangled growth of spruce at the upper limit of trees. Here night came
on, and, building himself a sort of shelter from the wind and snow with
the aid of an umbrella, he lay down, knowing that to yield to sleep would
be fatal. The night was bitterly cold, water being frozen thick at the
camp below in a room adjoining one which had a fire. But even in this
situation, he remarks, " It was not without some satisfaction that I looked
around me, and beheld the results of my labors. Notwithstanding the
open front, a bed of snow, a frosty rock on one side, a congealed mass
of snow and brush on the other, I was happy in the reflection that my
lot here was infinitely better than it could have been outside. Drawing
myself up into as small a compass as possible under my covering, I pre-
pared to pass a long, long night, the longest of my life." He says that
he was enabled to keep awake by the multiplicity of thoughts which
crowded through his mind, and by taking constrained and almost con-
stantly varied positions. " When the first rays of light appeared in the
morning, so much sooner had the night passed than I had expected, that
I presumed the moon was shining. My body was stiff and rigid with
cold, and pressing upon the ground with such a senseless weight, that it
seemed to me I had become a part of the mountain itself." The second
day the view was still obscured by clouds, and was spent by him wan-
dering about in the snow. Unable to obtain a sight of the Glen house
below, and not daring to descend into the mazes of the forests, he returned
to spend a second night in the same place as before. During this night,
he says, " the thought occurred, What if I am obliged to stay out a night
after this, without food, drink, or sleep ? After a short consideration,
taking into account my present state, that which had passed, and the

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 85

chances to come, I concluded that, terrible as it might be, I should be
able to survive it ; but whether I could then walk or not, I was unable to
decide." The next day was clear ; but not being able to make out the Glen
house, as soon as he was able to walk, which he says was after about two
hours, he started out to make a circuit for its discovery, higher up the
mountain. On this day he says that he no longer felt the gnawings of
hunger, but was oppressed by a burning thirst. " I thought I should not
wish to eat, even were food at hand. But I could not remain ignorant of
the fact that I was becoming weaker. This I perceived by the effort I was
obliged to make to hold my body erect, it inclining to stoop forward like
a man bowed down with old age. Often I raised myself upright, but was
very soon in the same bent posture." He was found in the afternoon of
this the third day of his exposure, still in good spirits, after having en-
dured for sixty hours the severe cold of the mountain, without food or
sleep. The party by whom Dr. Ball was rescued, consisting of Francis
Smith, J. S. Hall, and others, had been also engaged the preceding day
in the search, but had given up all expectation of meeting with him alive.

On February 22, 1872, private William Stevens, of the Signal Service,
U. S. A., died, after a sudden attack of paralysis. It does not appear
that this malady was induced by the special perils of the service, as he
had spent a winter in Alaska, and another at Fort Russell, though an
unnecessary yielding to sedentary habits may induce disease in the most
vigorous constitution. The body of Mr. Stevens was brought down the
mountain by a party of six persons, and buried at Littleton.

During the summer of 1873, one of the section hands on the railway
met with a fatal accident. He was sliding down the middle rail on a
board, and collided with an engine which was coming up the mountain.
His velocity of descent (a mile per minute) prevented him from stopping,
and his head was split entirely open. The site of the accident was at
Jacob's Ladder.

Winter Visits to the Summit.

The thrilling and melancholy recital of such events as these has not
failed to invest the mountains with something of tragic interest. Their
changeableness in atmosphere and temperature, the impenetrability of
their fogs, and the suddenness and merciless fury of their storms, often

86 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

demand precaution and judgment in summer visits to their summits.
Previous to the expedition of 1870, few had been found so hardy as to
attempt the ascent in winter. In the month of November, 1855, a month
after Dr. Ball's experience, another party succeeded in reaching the top
in safety, and in enjoying a good view. One of the most hardy men, in
the party that rescued Dr. Ball, said that with a friend he attempted to
make the ascent in February ; but when they arrived within a mile of the
summit, they were obliged to turn back almost frozen. Before 1870, only
two instances are recorded of visits to the summit during the winter
months. The first was made December 7th, 1858, by Mr. Osgood, of
Lancaster, who went up, accompanied by one or two friends, to serve a
legal process upon property there. They found frost formed upon the
windows a foot and a half in thickness. It also covered the furniture
and the walls, giving them the appearance of a "snow cavern." On their
return, they were overtaken by one of the frost clouds peculiar to the
mountains in winter. "When first seen it was small in magnitude, but it
increased in size with alarming velocity, soon spreading over the entire
south. They had just entered the woods at the base of the ledge, when
it came upon them. So icy and penetrating was its breath, that to have
encountered its blinding, freezing power on the unprotected height, would
have been to have perished with it as a pall to cover them. The party
reached the Glen in safety, and were heartily welcomed by their friends,
who, well knowing the danger attending this never before accomplished
feat, awaited them with much anxiety."

The other ascent was made by a party of three, J. H. Spalding, F.
White, and C. C. Brooks, all from Lancaster, on February 11, 1862. A
stereograph, obtained at this visit, exhibited the interior of the Summit
house, with snow-drifts which had been sifted in through cracks in the
building. This party remained on the top two clays and nights, experi-
encing a driving snow-storm of thirty-six hours' duration, and were repaid
by "one of the most magnificent sunrise scenes that imagination can
picture." The most extreme cold during their stay was five degrees
below zero. One of the objects of this visit was evidently to obtain some
acquaintance with the storms of the mountain. Their account concludes :
"We were remarkably well satisfied with the weather, and were very
lucky about climbing over the ice-clad rocks. Should others attempt to

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 8 1 /

go up among the clouds, for their own sake they should go prepared for
the worst. An iron-pointed staff, with an axe, and plenty of food and
clothing, are indispensable."

In the winter of 1870-71, the possibility of climbing the mountain in
the winter was thoroughly established. Thirty-eight persons went up
and down, some of them several times, the total number of ascents
being seventy. A register of the trips was given in the report for 1870.
The expedition was undertaken in opposition to the judgment, experience,
and advice of those most familiar with the mountain.

Mrs. O. E. Freeman, of Lancaster, made the ascent of Mt. Washington, Tuesday,
January 24, 1874, on foot. She is a daughter of "Old Ethan Crawford," of White
Mountain fame, and is doubtless the first woman who ever attempted to accomplish
his feat in winter. She was accompanied by her sister Mrs. Durgin, her brother
William H. Crawford, and nephew Ethan Crawford, Jr. They did not anticipate going
to the top at the starting, but thought they would walk up a short distance to see the
railroad, etc. They finally concluded to go to the top if possible, and made the
distance in three hours, walking upon the railroad sleepers most of the way, which
required not a little self-possession and endurance, as they are in many places ten and
fifteen feet above the rocks below, and covered with ice and snow, so that a single
misstep might prove fatal to one walking upon them. Having been born under the
very shadows of these grand old hills, these ladies have become inured to cold, frost,
and snow, and enjoy rather than shrink from a little exposure. Mrs. Freeman describes
the trip as "glorious fun," and expresses the hope that all her lady friends may have
the pleasure of making it in winter.

Establishment of an Observatory.

The increasing interest during the past few years in the subject of
meteorology, the remarkable character of the phenomena which would be
observed during a winter residence on any of these mountain summits,
and, within the last few years, the obvious bearing which these must have
upon the great problem of meteorology, the prediction of the weather,
together with the expensive outfit which it was seen must be necessary to
render such an enterprise possible, seem to have given rise to many
stories of large rewards which had been offered to any one who should
accomplish this object. As long ago as 1858 a report was current, among
guides and others, that the Smithsonian Institution had offered a thousand
dollars to any one who would spend a winter on the highest summit, for

88 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

the purpose of taking meteorological observations. Others said that a
firm in Boston had offered five thousand dollars for the same object, with
the avowed purpose of publishing the journal of the observers' experience,
expecting to be reimbursed for the large expenditure by the sale of the
books. In the efforts during the fall of 1870 to raise funds for the me-
teorological expedition then undertaken, every such report was carefully
scrutinized, but none could be traced to any reliable source. Even
to the present time, people at the mountains still insist that somebody
had offered a very large sum for the purpose accomplished by the Mt.
Washington expedition.

Perhaps the first attempt to establish a scientific observatory upon the
summit of Mt. Washington was made in 1853, by D. O. Macomber,
president of the Mt. Washington Road Company. I have seen no one
who recalls the extent of the effort made at this time, but can reproduce
a circular setting forth the importance of the enterprise, and a petition
to congress for assistance.

"United States Observatory on Mt. Washington.

"The arguments in favor of establishing a permanent building on the top
of Mt. Washington, for scientific purposes, are numerous and weighty.
Among them are,

"1. Mt. Washington is the highest accessible point of land in the United States, east
of the Rocky Mountains, being 6,285 f eet above the level of the sea, according to
actual measurements made by William A. Goodwin, Esq., civil engineer, in 1852, who
was employed for that purpose by the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Railroad Company.

"2. The construction of a Macadamized carriage-road, chartered by the state of New
Hampshire, in July, 1853, and which will be completed in 1854, will render the ascent
of the mountain easy for such portions of the year as it is desirable to continue scien-
tific observations.

"3. A line of telegraph is to be constructed to the summit of Mt. Washington, con-
necting with the line now in operation from Portland to Montreal, and which line
connects at Portland with lines to Boston, New York, Washington, Cincinnati, &c, &c.

" 4. A large hotel is to be erected on the top of the mountain by the Mt. Washington
Road Company, which hotel, together with the necessary out-buildings, will occupy all
the available space on the summit which is suitable for such purposes, and which is
already laid out and commenced, and will be completed during the year 1854. The
company who erected the first building of any kind on the summit, form a portion of
the present incorporation, and merge all their interests in the new building.

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 89

" 5. It has been satisfactorily ascertained that no private individuals have any title to
the surface of the summit of Mt. Washington, but the same is held by the state of
New Hampshire, from whom and by the legislature of which the charter of the Mt.
Washington Road Company was granted.

"6. When the building, with an observatory attached, shall be completed, and fur-
nished with the necessary instruments, scientific observations may be kept up through-
out the entire year, giving, over the telegraph wires to Washington, New York, Cincin-
nati, &c, three times each day (viz., sunrise, meridian, and sunset), the record of
the thermometer, barometer, and wind, and also the duration and power of storms.

"7. Mt. Washington has been for years past, and will be for years to come, the cul-
minating point of many of the most important and interesting observations connected
with the coast surveys under charge of Prof. Bache, and which are now becoming of
so much acknowledged practical utility to the great commercial interests of the United
States, and of the world.

"8. It is evident that if an observatory, for the use of the government and the benefit
of the public, is ever to be erected on the summit of Mt. Washington, it should be
built in connection with the house now about to be commenced, and both constructed
in the most durable and permanent manner, not only to resist the force of the elements,
but also for the safety and comfort of those whom it may be necessary to station there
during the winter season for scientific observations, and who will be wholly inaccessible
to those below for at least five consecutive months.

"9. The proposition to the United States government will embrace all the advan-
tages of furnishing an excellent road for its use, and keeping the same in repair,
erecting a tower for scientific observations, with movable dome, and with a centre
isolated pillar on which to place instruments, with sufficient rooms for observations, and
also for the use of any scientific corps it may be necessary to place there, with appur-
tenances for heating the same during the winter months. These rooms, together with
the observatory, to be entirely under the control of the government, and, if desirable,
built under the inspection of scientific gentlemen to be named by the president."

il To the Honorable Senate and House of Representatives of the United
States in Congress assembled :

"The president and directors of the Mt. Washington Road Company propose
to the United States government to build, for the use of the government
and for scientific purposes, an observatory on the top of Mt. Washington,
in the state of New Hampshire, in the manner following, to wit :

" 1. The observatory to be 25 feet square, with walls 4 feet in thickness, and to be
not less than 40 feet high above the top of Mt. Washington.

"2. The rooms inside to be 17 feet square, or of an octagon form, and a stone pillar
to be erected in the centre from the foundation to the top, entirely disconnected with
VOL. I. 12

90 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

the walls, with stone beams projecting from it in the several stories, for the reception
of transit instrument, transit clock, artificial horizon, &c, &c.

"3. The walls of the observatory to be built of stone, in the most substantial and
durable manner, with a traversing dome, fitted according to the most approved scien-
tific buildings of this character.

"4. The observatory to be erected as a tower to, and in connection with, a large
substantial stone building, no feet long by 50 deep, with an ell 90 by 40. The whole
to be three stories high, with flat roof, and calculated to accommodate one hundred
and fifty visitors during the summer months.

"5. The Mt. Washington Road Company, under their charter of incorporation, a
copy of which is herewith submitted, will build a substantial carriage-road from the
base to the top of Mt. Washington, with a grade not exceeding one foot in eight, and
eight miles long, to be completed before July, 1S55.

"6. The company will place this road at the service of the U. S. government, and
will transport all instruments, furniture, and persons belonging to or connected with
the government observatory, over the same, free of charges of any kind, at all times
when the said road shall not be rendered impassable by the elements.

"7. The Mt. Washington Road Company will erect, or cause to be erected, a sub-
stantial line of telegraph wires from the top of Mt. Washington, to connect with the
line already in operation along the line of the Atlantic & St. Lawrence Railroad,
which is distant only eight miles from the base of the mountain, and which telegraph
line connects at Portland, Me., with the lines extending to New York, Philadelphia,
Boston, Washington, Cincinnati, and other portions of the United States.

"8. To facilitate the continuation of scientific observations during the entire year on
the top of Mt. Washington, the Mt. Washington Road Company will place at the
disposal of the U. S. government such portion of the building as shall be necessary
for the accommodation of those who may be in the employment of the government, or
of any scientific society approved of by government, without charge, and will transport
at their own cost over their road, all fuel, provisions, &c, for the support and conven-
ience of such persons.

"9. To enable the Mt. Washington Road Company to build this national observa-
tory in the manner stated above, and in accordance with plans of the same herewith
submitted, and for the furnishing a carriage-road, telegraph communication, and all the
facilities above stated for the use of the United States government and the cause of
science throughout the world, they ask, in consideration, an appropriation of $50,000,
to be expended under a joint commission of two persons, the one to be named by the
government, and the other to be the president of the Mt. Washington Road Company.
" D. O. MACOMBER, President Mt. Washington Road Company.

"December 1st, 1853."

In 1859, Jonathan Marshall, a recent graduate of Dartmouth college,
conceived the idea of spending a winter upon the summit of Mt. Wash-

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

9 I

ington for meteorological purposes. He received encouragement from
Prof. Joseph Henry, of the Smithsonian Institution, and was allowed to
occupy one of the houses. An unexpected snow storm delayed some of
his preparations, and meanwhile other considerations prevented him from
carrying out the enterprise.

The history of the successful establishment of the observatory, in
connection with the geological survey, will presently be given in full.

Fig. 10. SUMMIT OF MT. WASHINGTON FROM THE NORTH.

Depot and Summit House in 1870.

Signal Service Occupation. Mt. Washington has been occupied as one
of the stations of the signal service since its abandonment by the geolog-
ical survey, in May, 1871. Sergeant T. Smith was relieved by Sergeant
M. L. Hearne, in June, 1871. Sergeant Hearne was assisted by private
William Stevens, till his death, Feb. 22, 1872, his place being taken by
Robert J. Bell. They arranged a box like a chimney, extending above
the ridge-pole, so that they could climb up and expose the anemometer
without going out of doors themselves. The head is protruded a single
instant, in order to place the instrument properly; and the sensation
experienced, when the wind is blowing at the rate of ninety miles to the

92 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

hour, is said " to be the same as if a bucket of water were thrown sud-
denly into the face, and immediately frozen thereon."

November 14, 15, and 16, 1871, are reported by Sergeant Hearne as very
"stirring times," his instrument recording the most rapid movements of
air ever described. At 9 a. m., Nov. 14, the wind blew at the rate of 40
miles to the hour. At 4 p. m., it reached 60 ; at midnight, yS, and still
increasing, with snow and sleet, the barometer sinking four tenths of
an inch during the night. At 6 a. m., the 15 th, the wind tore off five or
six planks from a corner of the building. At 7, the rate of velocity was
102; at 9, 120; at 3 p. m., 136 miles. The building cracked, shook, and
groaned to its very foundation. At 4 p. m., it blew at a steady rate of 140
miles, and three more planks gave way. At 5 p.m., two trials gave 150
and 151 miles per hour. This was the culmination of the storm, and the
wind gradually died away during the 16th inst. Meteorology does not yet
furnish the record of a more fearful storm than this experienced by
civilized beings.

Sergeant A. R. Hornett succeeded Hearne, and has already spent two
winters on the summit, assisted by Sergeant Wm. Line, Fred. DeRoshers,
and others. The party now consists of three persons. In 1873, a build-
ing was erected for the occupation of the government party. It is
situated a few rods south of the hotel, in a very exposed situation. It is
thirty-six feet long, and twenty-four wide, containing an office, dining-,
store-, and two bedrooms, besides an attic. It is built of wood, and is
situated so that the grandest views can be seen without leaving a com-
fortably warmed apartment.

The Occupation of Moosilauke Winter of 1S69-70.

With the commencement of work on the geological survey of the state
in 1869, this subject of an elevated winter observatory was early dis-
cussed, Mr. Huntington being prepared to occupy the position of
observer. But it was found that the lessee of the houses on the summit
of Mt. Washington was unwilling that they should be occupied for this
purpose during the winter. While this unexpected refusal deferred the
occupation of Mt. Washington, it led to a successful attempt in a dif-
ferent direction. Had the observatory been established in 1869, it might
have been a failure, from the want of an experience of the peculiarities

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 93

of mountain atmospheric phenomena. The defeat of our plans coming to
the knowledge of Mr. William Little, of Manchester, the owner of the
house on the top of Moosilauke, he generously offered its free use for
the occupation of Mr. Huntington's party that winter. The proposal
being made to Mr. Huntington, he adopted it without hesitation,
although, in consequence of bad chirography, "Moosilauke" was mis-
taken for " Monadnock." Moosilauke, situated in Benton, is some twelve
or fifteen miles distant from the Franconia range, and in a fully exposed
position, being nearly five thousand feet high, and within the Arctic zone
of climate.

It was late autumn before any preparations were made. Wood and
provisions had to be hauled up a mountain bridle-path more than a mile ;
and it was necessary to fit up a comfortable room. On the 23d of
November, an ascent, to make these preparations, was attempted. The
day was unfavorable ; and, upon reaching the bald portion of the moun-
tain, nearly a mile from the house on the summit, the party were met by
such a furious storm of wind and driving snow that they were obliged to
retreat. The following day, however, the attempt was successful; and
three days were spent in arranging for winter quarters. On the last day
of December, Mr. Huntington finally ascended the mountain, to remain
for two months, accompanied by Mr. A. F. Clough, photographer, of
Warren, whose enthusiasm, backed by resolution and great powers of
physical endurance, proved of the greatest value, both in this and the Mt.
Washington expedition. The limited siqoply of provisions which had
been taken up necessitated a short stay ; and the descent from the moun-
tain was made on the last day of February. It may be proper to add
that the whole expense of this expedition was borne by those who par-
ticipated in it, chiefly by Mr. Huntington.

By the two months spent on this summit, the possibility of living on a
mountain top during the winter was fully demonstrated. The observa-
tions made were published in the newspapers ; and the public were, to
some extent, prepared for the expedition of the ensuing winter, for which
ways and means began to be early devised.

The following extract will be read with the greater interest, since the
author though the strongest, on both mountains has been the first to
yield to the attacks of disease. He died of gangrene on the lungs, in 1872.

94 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Extracts from the Diary of A. F. Clough, kept upon the Sum-
mit OF MOOSILAUKE IN 1S7O.

January 27. Mounted my snow-shoes, took an axe and an old iron tea-kettle, and
started for Jobildunk ravine. Splendid view there, ice columns a hundred feet high.
What a time I had getting down to the foot ! First, I sent the axe down on a voyage
of discovery, and to bush out a path. How it leaped and slid and plunged, as it went
clown to the woods a thousand feet below ! Next went the snow-shoes ; but the kettle
would be smashed, and I kept it along with me. Then I slid a little way ; clinging by
the bushes and holding to a birch, got down a perpendicular descent some ten feet.
From this I could not get back at all, or down, except by jumping. Then I sent the
tea-kettle ahead. It went leaping and whirling twenty feet at a bound, smashed in
pieces, and was lost in the firs. I never saw it again. I looked over the precipice.
There was a shelf of the rock twenty feet below, and a snow-bank on it. It was the
only way. I jumped, and settled to my knees in it. The rest of the way was easier ;
and, sliding and jumping, I was at the foot in almost no time. It was a wild, grand
scene, ice precipices rising one above the other a thousand feet, till the tops are lost in
the clouds. Spotted my views ; and was two hours climbing home through the woods.
The ravine is one of the wildest places in New Hampshire, especially in winter. The
Asquamchumauke comes down through it.

February 18. Storms. Well, I like a storm ; it arouses peculiar feelings, excitement,
when it goes in strong, and it does that to-day, sure. One incessant roar all day, driv-
ing sleet and rain. The house shakes and trembles, though one side is buried in a snow-
drift to the top of the roof, nearly, with five inches of snow and ice on the roof and
walls.

10 A. m. Went out with the anemometer. We had a barrel set for the purpose ; but
the snow and ice had filled it up, so I held the machine for ten minutes. Sat down,
back to the wind, astride of the barrel. It was no boy's play. Machine won't weigh
five pounds, but it tired me terribly. The wind would ease a trifle, then come with a
rush and a roar louder than thunder, that made me cling, legs and arms, to the barrel.
The roar was deafening ; I could not hear. Huntington gave signal with his hand,
and I made for the house ; was thrown flat down by the wind, then crept in. How
queer I felt. I reeled and staggered like a drunken man. My head was giddy, my
eyes on fire, a thrill like electricity shot through my whole body, making me wild and
reckless. How it would have operated had I stopped longer, I cannot say. I should
be careless of my life to try it again. The wind is blowing a hundred miles an hour ;
the sleet cuts like a knife ; and my skin smarts wherever it was struck.

Blows like great guns this afternoon. Rain comes down a perfect shower; runs in
streams about our window. We have got pails, buckets, kettles, &c, to catch it, and
keep from being drowned out. This is worse than the storm of January 2 ; but we are
better prepared to meet it.

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

8 p. M. No abatement in the storm yet. Blow, blow! I like it; it is like a roar of
thunder all the time.

Fig. II. MEASURING THE WIND.

Velocity S8 miles per hour.

10:30 P. m. Still continues. Wind howls now like ten thousand fiends let loose
from the infernal regions.

February 19. Well, the storm has spent its fury at last. The wild, deafening roar
has died away, but occasional gusts sweep along, sighing with a low moan, the last
dying throes of the wild, terrifying hurricane. It began to abate last midnight. Would
like to have the clouds lift a few minutes, to see how it served people down on earth.
Huntington has gone down, and when he comes back he will report.

It takes a blow from the south-east to get up a storm and to keep it going. It also
takes a blow from the north-west, up in this altitude, a mile above the ocean, to clear it
off. It is cold to-day.

This afternoon we got frost clouds, "clouds made up of minute particles of ice,
said to bring death to any one caught in them." That story is a myth. [See page
86.] We found them as harmless as a summer vapor.

February 20. Thermometer 14 below ; clear and pleasant. Looked away to the
south-east, and saw the ocean. Walked down to the ravine ; got a fall, and slid down
a hundred feet ; brought up in a snow-bank ; was frightened, but not hurt a bit. Hack-
matacks are buried in snow. Wind has changed to south-east again ; another storm is
on the stocks.

2. p. m. It is blowing again, it roars again, it howls again. I thought the wind

96 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

had blown as hard as it could, but it is now worse than ever before. I shall not wet
myself to the skin again to hold up that anemometer. I know it blows at the rate of
more than a hundred miles an hour. How it roars! But "roar" does n't express the
noise ; bellow is too tame by half. In a thunder-storm the lightning flashes, blinding
the sight ; then comes a sharp report, which immediately gives way to deep, reverbera-
tory rumbling that shakes and makes everything vibrate with its power, then rolls away
and is lost. Now just imagine, if you can, a continual roll of the first reverberations,
after the sharp report is over, and you will have some faint idea of what we have this
day, a continual thunder, making everything shake for hours together. Have storms
like this swept over these mountains for thousands, perhaps millions, of years? or, is
this a special storm for the benefit of us two poor mortals who have invaded this bleak
and lofty region ? Can't tell.

February 21. Snows; and there is a drift fifteen feet high on the south side of our
house. Had to shovel out our window to let in daylight.

1 p. M. I am writing by lamplight ; the house is completely snowed up.

February 22. Thermometer 17 below. House still snowed up ; time drags.

The Mt. Washington Expedition Winter of 1S70-71.

This expedition, like that upon Moosilauke, was undertaken for the
purpose of contributing something to the solution of the great question
whether science can forecast the weather for hours and days beforehand.
It was deemed especially important to investigate the meteorology of Mt.
Washington, the highest point of land in the eastern United States,
as, from its exposed position, it might be expected to give the first indica-
tions of approaching storms. The observations upon Moosilauke had
afforded valuable experience for this more extended expedition, and had
already given some indication of the phenomena peculiar to the higher
New England summits in winter. As nothing of this kind was contem-
plated in the original act establishing the geological survey of the state,
it was not possible, nor desired, to use any of the funds appropriated to
geological exploration for meteorological purposes. With the approval of
the state authorities, the geological survey adopted the expedition as a
part of its work, and obtained the requisite funds entirely by subscription.
The total amount expended, including the value of materials and other
substantial aid furnished, reached as high as $3,500.

In the preparations for this expedition a house was, of course, the first
essential. Application was again made for the Tip-top house : this was
met by a courteous but firm refusal. At one time the question of build-

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. )J

ing a small house was discussed. From his elevated observatory on
Moosilauke, Mr. Huntington, by letter of February 18th, 1S70, had pro-
posed that negotiations be commenced with the Mt. Washington Railway
Company for the use of the engine-house or depot they were intending
to build on the summit. After the adverse decision in regard to the Tip-
top house, a letter was addressed to Mr. Sylvester Marsh, the president
of this company, inquiring whether their building might not be used in
the winter by the meteorological party. In reply, it was stated that the
completion of the house before winter was uncertain ; but a desire was
expressed that the project might be successful. Interviews were had
with Mr. Marsh, and he spoke even more favorably than had been
expected from his letter ; but he added, that he had not the authority to
speak for the company. Having no reason to suppose the directors
would not favor us, late in July the state geologist issued a circular,
stating the importance of establishing a meteorological observatory upon
Mt. Washington in the winter, and asked the friends of science to con-
tribute the sum of two thousand dollars to maintain the expedition, and
furnish the means of telegraphic communication between the observers
and the public. It was stated that with this sum the expedition could be
made successful, and the public would receive daily reports describing
the character of the arctic phenomena peculiar to the summit, thus giving
abundant opportunity for comparison with any observatory in the country.
This circular was sent to friends, and small sums were received, but not
to any promising extent. It was also posted at the principal hotels among
the mountains, in full view of the guests, but failed to excite any special
interest. The remainder of the summer was so occupied with necessary
geological field-work as to leave no time to beg for money.

By the first of September not a hundred dollars had been promised.
The next effort was in the direction of the press. A prominent journal
in New York was willing to give five hundred dollars for daily telegrams
and occasional letters sent to them exclusively during the winter.
Although a telegraph line, capable of use in the winter months, was
beyond the expected means, faith in ultimate success was strengthened
by this proposal. About this time attention was called to the recent
establishment of the " Bureau of Telegrams and Reports for the Benefit
of Commerce," in connection with the War department at Washington.
vol. 1. 13

98 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Application was made to Gen. A. J. Myer, the chief signal officer, for
funds to aid in carrying out this enterprise, allowing the weather office
to share its benefits. The answer, dated September 14th, stated that the
chief signal officer could "hardly appropriate money for the object named ;
but it may be in the power of this office, with the approval of the secre-
tary of war, to detail an observer for the position you propose to occupy."
In further correspondence, he stated his willingness to provide an insu-
lated telegraph wire, to extend from the summit of Mt. Washington to
the railroad station at its base ; adding, however, that he could not sanc-
tion any special arrangement to furnish any one paper exclusively with
the weather reports. He proposed himself to furnish weather reports
from all the stations throughout the country to the principal newspapers,
as well as to the chambers of commerce. He also offered to provide the
meteorological instruments required for the station. Thus the means
were provided for sending daily telegrams, but it necessitated a change
from the proposal to send the weather reports exclusively to the New
York Tribune, and left the enterprise as poor as ever.

In a letter of October 7th, the chief signal officer announced that he
had sent to the state geologist three miles of insulated Kerite telegraph
wire, two telegraph instruments, two sections, and four conductors, to
the value of $1,032 ; and that an instructed observer would probably be
detailed to join the expedition. These telegraph supplies were duly
received, and immediately transported to the mountain.

From another quarter, however, there came the required pecuniary
assistance. In the month of July, the state geologist learned that Mr.
S. A. Nelson, of Georgetown, Mass., was very much interested in the
meteorology of Mt. Washington, and would like to join the expedition.
He soon after received a letter from Mr. Nelson, presenting this request,
and asking also for further information. His tone of writing evinced a
rare enthusiasm for the undertaking, and from further correspondence it
appeared that he was ready to devote himself to raising funds for the
expedition, in case he could be one of the party. A formal invitation was
soon extended to Mr. Nelson, which he accepted, and immediately set
himself to the task of soliciting subscriptions in eastern Massachusetts,
pledging himself to procure at least $500. His promise was more than
realized, for his efforts brought in more than $800. His labors com-

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 99

menced early in September, and he did not go upon the mountain till
late in December, remaining behind after the occupation of the summit
to complete what he conceived to be his part of the work below.

It became evident that the public were slowly gaining confidence in
the success of our enterprise, and therefore we began to purchase our
supplies. Mr. Huntington made out the list, that the needed articles
might be at the lower mountain depot early in October, understanding
that the trains could not transport freight for the expedition before that
time. On the 19th of September, however, information accidentally came
to the state geologist, at Bethlehem, that the mountain trains would stop
running on the following day, as the track was to be taken up immediately
for repairs ; and that no orders had been given by the officers of the
company to afford the expedition any facilities, either of transportation
or the use of the summit depot. To add to these difficulties, the supplies
had not all been purchased. It was uncertain whether sufficient funds
could be obtained ; and no arrangement had then been made for the use of
a telegraph cable. Under these unpromising circumstances, the party at
Bethlehem, with the exception of the state geologist, came unanimously
to the conclusion that the difficulties in the way were insurmountable, and
that the expedition must be abandoned for the next winter. But he said
that the supplies should all go up the mountain, even if he turned team-
ster himself, and, with a single horse, transported them up the carriage-
road, Mr. Huntington having expressed a willingness to remain upon the
summit all winter, even without telegraphic communication with the
world below. The next clay, therefore, one of the party went to the
railroad station to say that orders were coming from head-quarters to
grant the needed facilities, as they must have been delayed by some mis-
understanding. Another went to Littleton to borrow a few tons of coal,
that the most essential article to comfort might be sure to reach the
railroad in season for transportation to the summit. Prof. Hitchcock, at
the same time, went to Boston, and obtained from the officers of the
company the necessary permission to use their summit depot during the
winter, and immediately transmitted it to the employes. The railway
company generously gave the use of the depot, and transported the sup-
plies over their line to the summit without charge, regretting that they
could not have known earlier of our purpose, so that the house might

IOO

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

have been completed. The necessary supplies were immediately pur-
chased, and transported without charge from Boston to the Wing road,
by the B. L. & N., Concord, and B. C. & M. railroads. After all our
efforts, however, the telegraphic apparatus sent from Washington, and
some other necessary articles, arrived too late for the last train ; and these
were taken around the mountain, partly by Prof. Hitchcock and partly
by Mr. Huntington, and thence to the summit, on the carriage-road.
The distance traversed was nearly eighty miles, over a very muddy and
hilly route a tedious journey, whose difficulties can never be appreciated
by the public. Several days were spent upon the summit in preparing
the building for occupation, partitioning off a room, laying double floors,
setting up the stoves, etc. Mr. Huntington remained upon the mountain
till the rooms were completed for occupation, the Kerite wire laid, and

Fig. 12. LAYING THE CABLE ON JACOB'S LADDER.

everything in readiness for the incoming of the party. He came down
October 22.

A new circular, adapted to the changed circumstances, was now pre-
pared and widely distributed. In this it was briefly stated that the
arrangements for the occupation of the mountain had been completed ;
the observers, photographers, and telegrapher, selected; the needful

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. IOI

supplies purchased and transported to the summit; a Kerite telegraph
wire had been laid over that portion of the route where a common wire
could not withstand the wintry blasts and accumulations of ice ; that the
building had been secured and comfortably furnished ; and, furthermore,
that the party intended to establish themselves in their snug eyrie about
the 1 2th of November. Reference was made to the approval of the
expedition by the War department, and to a special letter of recommenda-
tion signed by Professors B. Pierce, Joseph Winlock, Joseph Lovering,
Asa Gray, Alpheus Hyatt, President Runkle, N. B. Shurtleff, and William
Claflin. It was thought that commerce would be greatly benefited by
the daily reports. As the farmer studies the cloud-caps upon mountains
to forecast the weather, so telegraphic reports of the condition of the
atmosphere upon the highest summit in eastern America would enable
ship-owners to judge of the approach of storms, and escape risk of loss
to their vessels by keeping them in a harbor until the danger was past ;
so, too, with fair weather reported from the mountain, vessels could get
a day's start of any bad spell of weather, and thus escape great peril.
It was announced that the preparations for the expedition had been made
with the expectation that friends would contribute funds sufficient to
meet the expenses. Should the public fail to appreciate the enterprise,
the burden would fall upon the state geologist, who had already paid out
$700 more than the amount of the subscriptions. This appeal proved to
be efficacious, as, in consequence of this and other applications, enough
funds were at length secured to meet all the expenses of the expedition.

On the 3d of October, a letter was received from Mr. H. A. Kimball,
photographer, of Concord, N. H., asking to be permitted to join the
party and take views. According to the original plan, the artist of the
expedition was Mr. A. F. Clough, who had been associated with Mr.
Huntington in the occupation of Moosilauke ; hence this application was
referred to him, with the result that the two gentlemen concluded to
combine their efforts, and go upon the mountain in company. Mr. Kim-
ball aided, also, in the work of raising funds, adding more than a hundred
dollars to the list. Both the photographers made personal pecuniary
sacrifices to render their branch of the expedition successful ; and their
published stereographs have proved a valuable addition to its records.

On the third of November, the chief signal officer informed Prof.

102 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Hitchcock that he would send an instructed operator and observer, with
a complete set of meteorological instruments, to Mt. Washington, and
requested that one weather report might be forwarded to him daily by
telegraph. This report would be bulletined along with those from other
stations, and a copy of it furnished to the principal daily journals in the
country. After some delay, Sergeant Theodore Smith, U. S. A., started
from Washington, and reached the mountain early in December.

The complete organization of the expedition was as follows :

C. H. Hitchcock, state geologist, with office in Hanover connected by
telegraph with the summit of Mt. Washington.

J. H. Huntington, assistant state geologist, in charge of the observ-
atory upon the mountain.

S. A. Nelson, observer.

A. F. Clough and H. A. Kimball, photographers.

Theodore Smith, observer and telegrapher for the signal service.

The mountain was occupied for scientific observation during a period
of six months, from Nov. 12, 1870, to May 12, 1871. From that time to
the present, the observations have been continued by the United States
signal service, this being adopted as one of their regular stations.

Narrative of the Expedition.

The meteorological records of the expedition have been made the sub-
ject of a separate portion of this work. It has been thought, also, that,
in addition to these, some account of the doings and experiences of the
party while on the summit would be sought for in these pages. Extracts
from the journal of the expedition, kept by Mr. Huntington, from Nov.
12 to Dec. 20, and subsequently by Mr. Nelson, together with its history
from the beginning, and a statement of its results, were in due time
arranged and published.* All who were connected with the expedition
contributed to this work, which was "addressed, as their official report, to
those friends who furnished the means of establishing this Arctic observ-
atory." Portions have been selected from this work for presentation
here, so far as to show some of the most noteworthy experiences of a
life in winter upon Mt. Washington.

* Mt. Washington in Winter. Boston : Chick & Andrews, 1871.

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

103

Mr. L. L. Holclen, correspondent of the Boston Journal, visited the
mountain February S, and again April 29. He describes the quarters
occupied by the party as follows :

The depot was built last summer, and occupies a site of the same elevation as the
Tip-top and Summit houses, north-easterly of those structures, upon the verge of the
little plateau forming the summit of the mountain. The building, unlike the two
diminutive public houses, whose sides are of stone, is constructed wholly of wood. It
is sixty feet long by twenty-two feet wide, and stands nearly north and south. It has
eleven feet posts, and the elevation of the ridge-pole is twenty-five feet, the roof being
of the same form as the roofs of ordinary buildings. The apartment inhabited by the
party is situated in the south-east corner of this edifice. It is a room about twenty feet

Fig. 13. THE HOME OF THE EXPEDITION.

long, eleven feet wide, and eight feet high. The larger portion of the depot forms a
sort of vestibule to this room, and is wholly enclosed, except at the easterly end of the
northern face, where the outer door is situated. The little room was formed in the
following manner : 1 , there was the thick plank floor of the depot itself, which con-
stituted a good foundation to build upon ; 2, a course of sheathing paper was laid over
the original floor ; 3, an additional floor of close-fitting boards was then laid down ;
4, two thicknesses of sheathing paper were placed on the top of the second floor; 5, a
layer of carpet lining was added ; and 6, a thick woollen carpet was made the upper-
most layer of all. The inside of the outer walls was covered first with tarred paper,

104 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

then with boards ; a layer of sheathing paper was added, and wall paper spread
upon this. The ceiling is formed of two thicknesses of boards with sheathing paper
between, and the inner walls consist of single thicknesses of boards, sheathing paper,
and wall paper. There are two double windows, or rather half-windows, on the westerly
side of the room, and these are protected by strips of board without. The door of
the room is of ordinary size, but the outer door is nothing but a little opening two feet
square, some two feet from the floor.

We have thus far described none of the precautions taken to prevent the building
from being torn to pieces by the terrible winter tempests, or from being blown away
altogether. The frame-work is of the strongest possible kind, and is fitted together in
the best manner. The sills extend beyond the walls eight or ten feet, and every means
are taken to fasten the structure down to its rocky base. Within, bolts, iron rods, and
wooden braces add strength to the walls, and three strong iron chains, securely fastened
to the rocks, pass over the roof. Notwithstanding all these provisions, the building
rocks and bends before a furious wind-storm in a manner well calculated to create
consternation and dismay. An ordinary house would stand no longer before such terrific
blasts than would a house of cards before an ordinary wind. The great gale in Decem-
ber awakened the fears of the party for the safety of the depot, but, as the structure
stood that frightful assault, it was thought no further clanger on that score need be
apprehended. It was nevertheless thought best to strengthen the walls with addi-
tional braces and supports.

The work of the expedition was begun by Mr. Huntington, who
ascended November 12, and was for nearly three weeks alone upon the
mountain. We copy from his journal :

November 12. Started from Marshfield at 7 A. M. ; arrived at the summit of Mt.
Washington at 9:30. It rained until I got within three fourths of a mile of the sum-
mit ; then there was a frozen mist. The snow was six inches deep at Ammonoosuc ; at
Waumbek Junction, a foot. At the second tank the snow was drifted ; none on the
ties above. On the summit it was drifted so that neither at the Summit nor the Tip-top
house could the doors be seen ; there was very little about the depot. I am here alone,
but should have come if I had known that I had to stay alone all winter.

November 15. Have been above the clouds all clay long. Some of the time not a
single mountain top could be seen. Occasionally Mts. Adams and Jefferson would
appear, but most of the day in every direction was this illimitable sea of clouds.

November 24. The barometer lower this morning than it has been before. Wind
blowing fiercely from the north-west, not steadily, but in gusts. The house creaks in
every joint. It is something fearful to sit here alone and hear the wind howl, while
showers of ice are blown against the side of the building and along the roof.

November 30. Clear until 2 p. m., when light clouds began to pass over the moun-

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EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 105

tain, but became dense toward night. Was surprised by the arrival of Clough, Kimball,
Cheney, and Bracy. I am not likely to be alone again this winter.

December 4. Sergeant Smith arrived to-day.

December 12. Clough and Smith went down to the base of the mountain, and as
they returned found that the wire would work to the second tank, but could get no
current on the summit.

December 13. The telegraph worked to-day for the first time. Now we are in the
world again.

The ascent of the photographers, Messrs. Clough and Kimball, accom-
panied by two friends, Charles B. Cheney, of Orford, and C. F. Bracy,
of Warren, upon Nov. 30, was accomplished under circumstances of
great difficulty. The party had been delayed in reaching Ammo-
noosuc by being unexpectedly obliged to chop a passage-way through
trees which the wind had thrown across their road ; and it was past the
middle of the afternoon before they could start on the ascent. But, as
the weather appeared propitious, they decided to advance, having been
already delayed several days beyond their original plans. The following
description of their experience was prepared by Mr. Kimball, whose
strength proved unequal to the severe task when suddenly overtaken by
one of the fierce mountain storms.

The end of the first mile, carrying us up to within one half mile of the limit of wood-
growth, found us in tolerable condition, when a halt, for breath and observation,
discovered to us an approaching storm lying on the Green Mountains of Vermont. It
would undoubtedly strike us, but we still hoped that we might press on and reach the
summit first. The thought of being overtaken by a furious storm, on the wintry, shel-
terless cliffs of Mt. Washington, with the night about to enshroud us, was fearfully
impressive, and prompted us to our best endeavors. With all the effort we could
well muster, we had only advanced a half mile more, carrying us fairly above the
wooded region to the foot of "Jacob's Ladder," when the storm struck us. There were
suddenly wrapped around us dense clouds of frozen vapor, driven so furiously into our
faces by the raging winds as to threaten suffocation. The cheering repose of the ele-
ments but a moment before, had now given place to what might well be felt as the
power and hoarse rage of a thousand furies ; and the shroud of darkness that was in a
moment thrown over us, was nearly equal to that of the moonless night. Compelled
to redoubled efforts to keep our feet and make proper advance, we struggled with the
tempest, though with such odds against us that we were repeatedly slipping and getting
painful bruises. Mr. Kimball finding himself too much exhausted to continue this
struggle on the track, we all halted in brief consultation. It was suggested that we
VOL. I. 14

106 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

return to Waumbek station, an old building a half mile below us, and there try to keep
ourselves from freezing by brisk exercise. Mr. Clough emphatically vetoed this as a
most dangerous and impracticable proposition, saying that our only hope consisted in
pushing upward with all our might.

Here we became separated : three of the party left the track, and Mr. Kimball will-
ingly left behind his luggage in order to continue the ascent. By thus leaving the
track we escaped liability to falls and bruises, but found ourselves often getting buried
to our waists in snow, and forced to exert our utmost strength to drag ourselves out and
advance. We repeatedly called to Mr. Bracy, who had kept on the track as we sup-
posed, but could get no answer. The roar of the tempest overcame our utmost vocal
efforts ; and the cloud of frozen vapor, that lashed us so furiously as it hugged us in its
chilling embrace, was so dense that no object could be seen at a distance of ten paces.
Against such remorseless blasts, no human being could keep integrity of muscle and
remain erect. We could only go on together a little way, and then throw ourselves down
for a few moments to recover breath and strength. We had many times repeated this,
when Mr. Kimball became so utterly exhausted as to make it impossible for him to take
another step. He called to the others to leave him, and save themselves, if possible.
The noble and emphatic "Never!" uttered by the manly Clough, whose sturdy muscle
was found able to back his will, aroused him to another effort. The two stronger
gentlemen, whose habits of life and superior physical powers gave hope of deliverance
for themselves, were both immovable in the determination that our fate should be one,
let that be what it must.

The situation was one of momentous peril, especially as to Mr. Kimball, whose
exhaustion was now so extreme that he was wholly indifferent to the fate that seemed
to impend, only begging that he might be left to that sleep from whose embrace there
was left no power of resistance. Still there was forced a listless drag onward, mostly
in the interests of his companions, and in obedience to their potent wills. After this
sort we struggled on a few rods at a time, falling together, between each effort, to rest
and gain new strength. With the wind at 70 miles per hour, and the thermometer
down to 7 , as was found after arriving at the observatory, we came at length to
"Lizzie Bourne's monument," only thirty rods from the observatory. It took more
than a half hour's time to make this last thirty rods. Even the stronger ones had
become wearied by their unusual exertions, and had not this been the case their prog-
ress would have been slow, for it was found absolutely impossible to force on the one
who had now become unable to regard his own peril, more than a few feet at a time.
He would then sink down into a deep sleep, while the others would employ the time in
chafing his hands and feet, and, after a few moments, manage to arouse him and make
another struggle onward.

Mr. Bracy, too, had a narrow escape. Losing his foothold on the track, he at one
time fell through into a gorge beneath the trestle-work. Exhausted, bruised, and dis-
couraged, he crawled beneath the ruins of the old "Gulf house," which were found to
be at hand, thinking he would try to weather the storm there ; but finding himself, in

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 107

spite of every effort, getting numb and dozy, he rallied to a new struggle, and thus
saved himself.

Mr. Huntington, aroused by the arrival of Mr. Bracy, sallied out with a lantern in
search of us, but found his best exertions of little avail, the storm being so fierce and
thick that he could neither make himself seen nor heard beyond a few paces ; and they
were regarding us as probably lost, though preparing for another effort in our behalf,
when we arrived.

This was perhaps the most perilous ascent of the winter, owing to the
storm and darkness, especially as Mr. Kimball had been wholly unaccus-
tomed to severe physical exertion. The ascent, under the greatest diffi-
culties, was that of April 5, by Messrs. Clough and Cheney. The wind
Mew over eighty miles an hour, while the temperature was nearly at
zero. They succeeded in reaching the summit on account of their supe-
rior powers of endurance. Most persons would have perished. An
ascent has since been made, however, by Mr. Huntington, late in Novem-
ber, 1873, under circumstances still more perilous. The temperature was
1 7 below zero, and the velocity of the wind 72 miles per hour. It should
be remembered that, at the same time with such severity of exposure
upon the mountain, the weather at the base may seem favorable for the
ascent.

The expedition had an early experience of the furious storms peculiar
to mountain summits. Mr. Huntington writes : "There was a storm of
some severity the 24th of November, when I was alone on the mountain.
But the most severe storm, of all that we had, occurred on the 15 th of
December, and, as it was the first terrific storm since the house had been
built which we occupied, we did not feel that security that we should in
one that had stood the force of the storms in winters past. The other
houses are of stone ; ours of wood, and, besides, presented a much
greater surface to the wind than any building ever before erected on the
summit. Two of the party had never been on a mountain during
a winter storm, so they would be likely to describe it more vividly than
a person who had witnessed many," as appears in the following, by
H. A. Kimball :

We have had probably as severe a tornado as will visit us during the winter. The
velocity of the wind was recorded at 7 p. m., and it was 92 miles per hour. After that
time it was not safe to venture out with the anemometer, unless we wanted to take an

IOS PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

air-line passage to Tuckerman's ravine, for the wind kept increasing until towards
morning, when it blew a terrific hurricane. Mr. Huntington and Mr. Clough, both
having had considerable of this kind of experience, say it must have blown, at the
highest point, no to 120 miles per hour. We expected at any moment to have the
building come clown about our heads, and were prepared to make an effort for our lives,
having put hard-tack in our pockets, and armed with axe and saw, ready, in case we
found it necessary, to cut our way out, getting also some of our thickest blankets ready
for use, and preparing with considerable excitement for any emergency. The wind
roared terribly, as if inspired with the power and spite of all the furies, and the wild
rage was so deafening that we were obliged to shout to our utmost in order to be heard.
Huntington and Clough were both very cool, although I believe they thought the
chances were more than even that we should have quarters elsewhere before morning.
We watched all night, waiting anxiously the effect or result of the hurricane ; and,
after a long night of such fearful tumult, morning brought us a little relief, by reducing
the velocity of the wind to 84 miles per hour. We were duly thankful for this slight
change, and at breakfast we congratulated each other on our narrow escape ; for, if the
building had been crushed, our chance for wishing any one a " Merry Christinas" and
" Happy New Year" would have been very small ; for the mercury was 15 below zero,
and the barometer, the lowest recorded so far, 22.796. This remarkable fall will not
happen often, but when it does we shall keep housed. The immediate danger is
passed, however, and our good cover has been severely tested, and has not been
found wanting in point of strength. We have more confidence in it than we had
before the storm.

We continue this narrative with extracts from the journal, written by
S. A. Nelson:

December 21. Forefathers' Day was celebrated by the arrival of Prof. Hitchcock,
L. B. Newell, E. Thompson, F. Woodbridge, and the writer. We ascended in a rough
south-west snow storm, with the velocity of the wind at 59 miles per hour. It is pleas-
ant to be located at last, and settled down for the coming six months. It is quite a
change, in one short week from busy Boston, to this out-of-the-world-up-in-the-clouds
observatory. . . . There are no signs of animal life outside. Mice are plenty in the
house, and it is thought that a sable has taken up winter quarters under the building.

December 23. Kimball was up first this morning, and had the first sight of as beau-
tiful a sunrise as one could wish. It was a cold morning, the thermometer indicating o ;
but we don't feel the cold as sensibly as in the lower regions. Clough and Kimball
took some fine views to-day, among them, one of the observatory, with Clough, Smith,
and Nelson standing by the door. Later in the day, they took one from the roof of
the hotel. They have been successful against odds, having had but three days so far
suitable for work during a month's residence.

December 24. Yesterday afternoon, and late at night, a "snow-bank" lay along the
south ; this forenoon, snow was falling, with a temperature of 13 . At times, during

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. IO9

the day, the wind was as high as seventy miles an hour : consequently we were con-
fined to the house. Mr. Smith has much to do, many messages being sent to and from
the "lower regions." He sends his first regular report to Washington to-night. We
have sent a press despatch of "A merry Christmas to all the world below."

December 25. There were no clouds above or around the summit. Below, and but
a little lower than this peak, the clouds were dense, and covered an extensive tract of
country. Through the less dense portion of the lighter clouds, the sun's rays gave a
peculiar rose tint, extremely beautiful in effect. This was my first cloud view, and it
was a treat beyond expectation. . . . Mr. Smith takes our four-footed friends, the
sable and mice, under his especial care, and sees that they get all the waste food.
They are our companions, though we see them but seldom.

January 10. The snow is nearly all off the houses and the rocks a great change in
three days' time. At 1 p. m. it was 37 . Like April it seemed ; but who knows what
it will be to-morrow?

January 16. Still raining. At 11 this forenoon, Mr. Smith started out on a voyage
of discovery ; but it rained so hard, and the walking was so difficult, that he soon came
back. Did n't stop long, however ; he is too energetic a man to give up easily. So,
putting on an overcoat, and otherwise prepared, he once more went out, determined to
find the break in the wire, if he had to go to Littleton. Wished him good luck, not
expecting to see him again for three or four days, and he was off. But we soon heard
the click, click, click of the instrument, and knew that he had found the break. In
half an hour he returned : the break was at the Gulf tank. Mr. Huntington
went down to the spring to-day, and brought up a pail of water. A week ago
this was an Arctic region ; now it is more like April in the valleys of New Hamp-
shire.

January 17. Perfectly clear at sunset. Had one of the best views of the shadow
of Mt. Washington yet obtained. The mountains, far and near, look gray now since
the rains.

January 18. I have seen to-day a sea of clouds. At 10 A. M., westward from a line
clue north and south, as far the eye could see, the clouds presented the appearance of
a frozen ocean, the surface level and motionless, apparently, but really moving east-
ward, and only a little below the summit. In no direction west of a line north and
south was there a glimpse of mountain or valley. Turning to the east the contrast was
striking, for in this direction there was scarcely a single cloud, and the atmosphere
was remarkably clear. Saco valley was never more distinct, while the range, com-
prising Clay, Jefferson, and Adams, was completely hidden ; but the Carter range
loomed up as on a clear morning when not a single cloud can be seen, and far away
the ocean was plainly visible.

January 22. Having a gale to-day, and not only a high wind, but a temperature
below anything I have ever experienced before, now at 9 p. m., 34 inside the door.
The wind is 80 miles, blowing steadily. At 2 p. m., wind 72, Mr. Huntington meas-
ured the velocity. He had to sit with a line around him, myself at the other end,

HO PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

in-doors, as an anchor : even then it was almost impossible for him to keep his position.
Temperature, 31 .

January 23. The wind raged all night. The house rocked fearfully; but as we
had no fear of a wreck, it did not disturb us much. Sometimes it would seem as if
things were going by the board, but an inspection showed everything all right. It is
a sublime affair, such a gale, only we do not care to have it repeated too often.
Nobody was hurt or scared, though there was not much sleep for our party, with such
an uproar of the elements. Evidently the spirits of the mountain are angry at this
invasion of their domain. Toward morning the wind ceased, and all day it has been
nearly calm. The temperature outside, 43 . Mr. Huntington and myself sat up
all night to keep fires going.

January 31. The most glorious sunrise this winter. To the east was a sea of
clouds, somewhat broken, and much lower than usual. The protruding peaks resem-
bled islands more than ever before. Over northern New Hampshire and Maine, and
along the coast, the clouds were very dense, but their upper surface, as the sun shone
across them, was of dazzling brightness, while singular forms of cirrus clouds overcast
the sky. Low in the west it was intensely black, and detached masses of clouds
floated along the northern horizon. For an hour after sunrise all these cloud forms
were constantly changing in color, purple and crimson, leaden hues and rose tints,
almost black and dazzling white.

February 2, 10 p. m. All day the wind has been light, and it was nearly calm this
evening till half an hour since, when, without any warning, the gale began, not with
a rising wind, but a sudden blast that shook the house to its foundations. I said that
we had no warning of its approach : we had notice of it in the falling of the barometer.
A moment before the first blast, some one called attention to the quiet night, remarking
that the storm would not probably reach us before morning, when the conversation
was suddenly interrupted by the uproar of the elements.

February 3. We get to-day the most severe snow storm of the winter so far. The wind
is north-west, the point from which our storms and hurricanes come. At no time has
the temperature been higher than 5 ; it was 25 this morning at 7 o'clock. Smith
and myself are yet on the sick list, so all the hard work falls to Mr. Huntington. To
add to the discomfort of our situation, the line failed last night, just after Smith got off
the press despatch. Cold as it is, and has been all day, Mr. Huntington made six trips
down the railway repairing line. His method was to find and repair a break, then run
for the house, get thoroughly warmed and rested, and then out for another attempt.
The last time he went to the Gulf: below there he did not dare go. So, as there is at
least one more splice to make, far as any good for to-night telegraphing goes, his
labors were of no avail.

February 4 9 p. m. The wind, rising toward morning, has held its own all day, at
no time being below seventy-five, and, since 8 130, acts as though it were ambitious to
attain the ninety-mile standard. This has been so cold a day that we found Dr. Kane's
voyages most suitable reading. At 7 a. m., 33 , and it has gradually worked down to

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. I I I

40 . We have the stoves at a red heat. Ten feet from the stove, at the floor to-day,
the temperature was only 12 , and at the same time was 65 in other parts of the
room. . . . Find that I froze my fingers while sawing off a piece of pork for our
" Sunday baked-beans ; " was out only five minutes. It was like cutting into a block of
gypsum, to saw off that piece of pork.

Midnight. Really, there is quite a breeze just now. Some of the gusts, from what
we know of the measured force, must be fully up to one hundred miles per hour. In
fact, it is a first-class hurricane. The wind is north-west, and, as the house is fully
broadside to it, the full force is felt. At times, it seems as though everything was going
to wreck. We go to the door and look out : it is the most we can do. To step
beyond, with nothing for a holdfast, one would take passage on the wings of the wind
in the direction of Tuckerman 1 s ravine. We shout across the room to be heard. Now
the wind suddenly lulls, and, moaning and sighing, it dies away. Then, quickly gath-
ering strength, it blows as if it would hurl the house from the summit. The timbers
creak and groan, and the windows rattle. The walls bend inward, and, as the wind
lets go its hold, rebound with a jerk that starts the joints again. The noise is like
rifle-firing in fifty different directions at the same moment in the room a moment
ago, close by me as I sat here leaning against the wall, now in the outer room, or up
aloft, and outside as well. Then there is the trembling and groaning of the whole
building, which is constant. Everything movable is on the move. Books drop from
the shelves. We pick them up and replace them, only to do it again and again. We
have just looked at the thermometer ; find the temperature lower than at last observa-
tion, now minus 40 . Huntington and Smith are taking hourly observations. When
we hear an unusually loud report in the outer room, one goes to inspect. Nothing has
given away yet.

February 5. From 1 to 2 A. M., the wind was higher than during the early part of the
night. Some of the gusts must have been above 100 possibly no. The tempest
roared and thundered. It had precisely the sound of the ocean waves breaking on a
rocky shore. And the building, too, had the motion of a ship scudding before a gale.
At 3 A. M. the temperature had fallen to 59 ,* and the barometer stood at 22.810;
attached barometer, 62 . Barometer was lowest yesterday at 8 a.m., when it was
22.508, and attached thermometer, 32 .

9 A. M. Talked over the events of the past night at the breakfast table, recalling
many laughable incidents, and agreeing that we rather enjoyed the night's experience
than otherwise ; that it was a sublime affair (having full confidence that the house
would stand, the storm had no terror for us) ; but all things considered, were unani-
mous in the opinion that once in a fortnight was quite often enough for such grand
displays of the storm-king's power. Of all the nights since this party came here, the
last exceeds every one.

* The Signal Service did not provide us with a spirit thermometer; consequently it is impossible to say how
cold it was at this time, the instrument in use not being reliable below 3S . C. H. H.

I I 2 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

February 6. They have put the line in order to-day, and Mr. Huntington sent an
interesting press despatch. Wonder if our situation excites any comment, especially
as we have held no communication with the lower world for three days.

Tuesday, February J. A glorious sunrise, and a quiet, warm day. Temperature at
2 p.m., 62 in the sun. Change of temperature since Sunday of I2i! .... I
have given some time this afternoon to the study of cloud formations. Days like this
are so rare that we improve every opportunity for investigation. Gales, storms, hurri-
canes, all clear off with a north wind, a wind gentle and soft as the south wind of the
lower regions. How can this be explained? It is S. S. W. to-night, and two miles per
hour, a marked contrast to Sunday morning. Mr. Holden telegraphs from Littleton
that we may expect him to-morrow.

February 8. Smith and I laid in a supply of ice, enough for three days' consumption.
Are obliged to look sharp in fair weather and lay in an ample stock of ice, for it some-
times happens that we cannot replenish for several days. ... At noon the party
arrived, consisting of Messrs. Holden, Cogswell, and Clough. They received from us
a right hearty welcome. They brought a large mail, and a contribution of magazines
and papers. Some of the dailies are more than a fortnight old, yet we read them with
as much eagerness as we do the evening paper at home. The evening has passed
pleasantly. We had something to tell our friends of mountain life ; and they, in return,
had much to relate of events occurring since we left the region below the clouds.

February 9, 9 p. m. Cloudy all day, wind moderate ; temperature high as 26 . The
cloud on the mountain so dense that it was impossible to see ten rods in any direction.
It is a pleasure to have company in this out-of-the-world place ; and I sincerely hope
that we may be able to treat our friends to some one or more of the Mt. Washington
novelties, a gorgeous sunrise or brilliant sunset, a superior show of frost-work, or,
failing in these, something in the line of hurricanes. It is a pity that they should be
at the trouble of making the ascent at this inclement season, and not take back some-
thing of the experience that falls to our lot daily something to endure, or enjoy, as the
case may be. The line has been down to-day between Littleton and Concord : this
time it is not the Mt. Washington cable. The papers say that fears were entertained
for our safety during the time the line was down. Knowing better than the good
people below all about the matter, we had not the least anxiety.

February 10. The wind high all day, 88 at 2 p. m., Holden having the honor of
measuring its velocity, Huntington timing him. He acknowledges perfect satisfaction
as regards Mt. Washington winter winds. Now, 7 p. M., the wind is rapidly rising.
Been cloudy all day ; a dense cloud on the mountain, charged with frost.

Midnight. About S o'clock the wind had worked up to the 90 mile rate, and then
commenced a furious bombardment of ice from the summit and frost-work from off
the house. The house shook and trembled as the fiercer blasts beat against it. Pieces
of ice were driven between the bars protecting the windows, and at last, by one heavy
discharge, three panes were broken. As good luck would have it, the broken lights
were in the room above. The roar of the wind as it rushed through the opening was

: &%*$?&^*> .

.7!

Tip-Top House.

P'rosted Shrubs.

Winnipiseogee from Washington.

Ane

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. II3

enough to wake a Rip Van Winkle. Huntington, Clough, Smith, and myself, were
out in a moment, and after having the " hurricane " lantern twice extinguished (it is
warranted to burn the brighter the higher the wind), we succeeded in nailing boards
over the aperture. Still the bombardment was going on for an hour, but no more glass
was broken. The supply of ammunition was exhausted by 10 o'clock, and then, though

the wind was terrific, we did not mind the gale The line failed just after

Holden's Journal despatch went. One thing more : our friends have had the enjoy-
ment of a very respectable if not a first-class gale. It does not seem now as if it would
rise to the rank of that of December, January, or the one of last week. The temper-
ature at 9 p. m. was 20 . Hourly observations to-day.

February 13. The party left at 11 : 20. Smith and I watched them going down as
long as we could see them, and then returned to the house, perhaps a little envious :
more silent we certainly were than usual, though this is not the first time we have lived
by ourselves. Really, these few days have passed most agreeably. . . . The clouds
in the morning did not present any remarkable features for this locality, but from 3 to
4:30 p. m. there was an extensive "sea of clouds." It extended from a point 60 miles
north, far as the ocean east, bounded only by the horizon. This summit was alone
above the cloud. It was to the eye a frozen polar ocean, here and there a lofty moun-
tain of ice rising from the apparent dead level surface. The setting sun, throwing a
silvery light along the cloud, dispelled the illusion. Perfectly clear overhead all day ;
our sunny day contrasts strongly with the cold, gloomy, cloudy one below. If we have
much cloud here, it is not always sunshine there.

Febricary 22. The only perfectly clear day this month; cool, the mean temperature
being but 2 . These clear days, and, if nearly calm, so much the better, are the chief
attractions, or rather among them, for cloud-views count in the list. On such days
even the most distant mountain peaks are clearly outlined. Katahdin is to-day plainly
seen, as are some mountains in Canada as distant. The view is not often good in a
southerly direction ; it is not to-day. The mountains belonging to this group show
grandly in the bright sunlight. . . . Smith has been working on the line, and I
have spent the day in writing. In such weather this is a pleasant winter residence.
Anniversary of Washington 1 s birthday, and we had not thought of it until now ! We
might have raised our little flag in honor of the day, it would have been "quite the thing."
February 26. A morning perfect as a morning of winter can well be. Clouds in the
valleys, the ocean visible for a long distance up and down the coast, and far out at
sea. About 9 A. m. a heavy cloud commenced to move inland, one portion of it mov-
ing up the Saco valley. Its progress was so slow that it did not shut the Glen house in
till 7 p. M.

February 28. This is one of those days which make us contented with our home. It
cleared off early in the morning. Wind from 50 to 70 miles per hour. The mean
temperature for to-day is o. The frost-work is again fine ; and the house, if not a
marble palace, looks like a building fashioned from purest marble, no part of the
chains, wooden braces, or finish to be seen.
VOL. I. 15

114 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

March II. The morning was so fine that we felt invited out. The snow is nearly all
gone. The rocks look charming in their Alpine dress of beautiful, pale green moss
lichen. We were so fortunate as to discover a fine bunch of Greenland sandwort one
in bloom. I took up some of each for house-plants, that our parlor may boast its
winter garden.

March 23. This morning there was a thick stratum of clouds eastward, at a moderate
elevation above the summit. By 8 A. m. it was quite dense ; at 9 a. m., snow-squalls to
the north-east, and the clouds gradually settling in the valleys; 11 o'clock, thick on
the Carter range; by 12, clouds all about, except on the summit. By 2 p.m. the
mountain was in clouds. The formation, for I can call it nothing else, and progress
of the storm were very interesting. The clouds were at a higher elevation than has
generally been the case, cirro-stratus, color gray, uniform in density over nearly the
entire field of view; thick along the south-east, east, and north-east, long before it
shut down elsewhere. Evidently the lower current of the wind was from the east,
while the wind on the summit was west-north-west. It was two hours from the time
the Carter range shut in before the summit was enveloped. The clouds poured over
Mt. Adams, and, later, over the dividing ridge between Mts. Washington and Clay.
They seemed to curve, as they passed over these mountain-tops, as though the upper
currents of air conformed to the irregularities of surface. When there are two strata
of clouds, they unite before the snow or rain falls, as a rule, though to-day snow fell an
hour previous to the clouds settling on the mountain.

April J^. All the forenoon, till 1 p.m., the summit was in a dense cloud. Suddenly
it lifted, or passed off, and then we had the most gorgeous display of cloud-scenes we
have yet witnessed. Eastward, masses of cumuli rested over the valleys and the moun-
tains. Why not call them mountains of cloud? Certainly. They rise far above our
level, six thousand, or perhaps eight thousand, feet higher than this peak! They con-
form to the heights over which they lie, and seem to envelop other mountains
nearly as lofty as their upper limits. The illusion was perfect; and Mt. Washington,
in comparison, was a diminutive spur or outlying peak of this great mountain range.
Without ever having seen the Alps, I understood them better for having seen these
cloud mountains. The sun runs high, but we know nothing of spring. It is more like
winter than some of the time in March. Then there was no snow; now everywhere
there is snow and ice.

April 5. All day there has been a furious storm of snow, at one time wind 86, and
temperature low as 2. 9 p. m., wind 60, and clear. This afternoon we were surprised
by the arrival of Messrs. Clough and Cheney. They were somewhat frost-bitten, ears,
fingers, and feet, and it was doubtful, for a half hour, how badly. But now they are
all right, though their hands and ears are considerably swollen. It is the toughest
storm in which any party has made the ascent this winter.

April 28. At 4 p. m., started down the railroad, expecting to meet Mr. Huntington
and Mr. Holden. To show the changes of temperature here, in a few feet of altitude,
I note my trip down to-day, and up as well. Left the house at 4: 30 p. m., wind 30

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS.

115

miles ; at the Lizzie Bourne monument, 40 ; at the Gulf house ruins and below, fully
60, thus reversing the order of things in regard to wind. Thermometer on the sum-
mit, 28 ; frost-work forming some distance below the monument. At the Gulf tank,

Fig. 14. CORONA SEEN BY HITCHCOCK AND NELSON, APRIL 28.

The dark cone is shadow of observer with glory about the head. Above the foreground is the shadow of the
mountain, while the large circle is the colored prism or corona resting on clouds, and partially obscuring the two
shadows.

when the sun came out, as it did several times, the ice on my cap would thaw com-
pletely ; then, while the cloud was passing, icicles two inches in length would form on
the visor. It was difficult to walk or even stand against the wind below the Gulf house
ruins. Returning, the wind was not so violent ; rain as far as the plateau, where they
collect water for the engine in summer ; mist on the summit, with thermometer
28 at 6: 50.

April 30. We have had the past month more clouds than sunshine, more snow than
rain ; light winds and few gales, the clouds often dense on the summit when clear
below. Now only on the higher peaks, in the deep ravines, and a few places on wooded
slopes is there snow.

May 2. Taking advantage of the day, Mr. Holden and myself set out for Tucker-
man's ravine. Found more snow than on the 9th ult. Sunlight bright and warm
there, but over Washington a dense cloud most of the afternoon. The air spring-like,
as were the surroundings ; little snow except at the head of the ravine, where the arch
will be looked for in vain next summer, unless May makes up for the short-comings of

Il6 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

winter. Hermit lake really breaking up, and the stream open above. We could see
the pretty cascade some distance above the lake, and hear the rushing waters, now
loudly as the wind arose, now softly murmuring as it fell. Halfway down the northern
side, under a sheltering rock, we lunched on hard tack and sugar, drinking the pure
water of a little rill which ran down among the rocks. Then for an hour we climbed
the crags, getting views from many different points.

Came away at 3 p. m., too early to go home, so decided on a trip to the north-eastern
spur of Washington. Passed a deep spring of excellent water, which in my jaunts I
had never seen, then visited the ravine beyond. In some respects this is even more
interesting than Tuckerman's, for what is wanting in extent is made up in boldness of
outline, its steep, sloping northern side, and sheer precipice of two hundred feet or
more on the south. Seven seconds was the time taken, by repeated trials, for a stone
to reach the bottom. We propose that Huntington's Ravine shall be its future
designation. [See frontispiece.]

May 3. Snowing all night, and cloudy all day. Mr. Smith sick, seems no better ;
a rough place to be sick in ; safe from the doctors, he has that comfort !

May 4. Another tough snow-storm. ... A pair of birds have made the house
their home of late. To-day, especially, they have hardly been out. This afternoon
they have sung several songs for our benefit. To-night they sit on the beam over this
room, close by the flue, and we can occasionally hear them twitter, softly calling to
each other.

On May 6, Messrs. Holden and Nelson visited Mt. Adams. A description of a
phenomenon seen on their return is given as follows : "In ascending the cone of Mt.
Washington we again got above the cloud level, and enjoyed a rare sunset scene. We
also witnessed a veritable battle of the clouds. The wind, which had been very light
throughout the day, had appeared to come from different directions at different points,
now from the east, in another place from the north or north-west, and again from the
west or south-west. We had ascended a little distance above the Gulf tank, when we
turned and observed two ghostly armies approaching each other, one from the direction
of Mt. Monroe, and the other from out the depths of the Great Gulf. Noiselessly
they marched onward, and the conflict came near the gap between Mts. Washington
and Clay. The battle was short and decisive. Little fragments of cloud, like wreaths
of smoke, were flung high in air, and there seemed a momentary indecision, but the
fleecy forms from the south-west were soon fleeing before the fast gathering hosts of
the east, until all were commingled in one shadowy mass."

May 7. The barometer fell 50-iooths from last night at 9 o'clock to this morning at
7 o'clock. Wind rising at 3 A. m., reaching the highest velocity at 2 p. M., which was
6j, highest recorded for some time, forcibly reminding us of the winter months.
Snowing all day ; the whirling, driving clouds of snow made it far from pleasant to
stay out for three minutes, the time occupied in taking the force of the wind. At
5 p. m. the cloud passed off, and we could see that not the mountains alone, but the
lower country as well, were "snow bound."

EXPLORATIONS AMONG THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 117

May 11. A wintry sky and winter scenery this morning : the sky a pale blue, and the
sunshine that of December. The clouds presented an infinite variety of shades gray,
brown, and dingy black. Distant mountains showed clear cut outlines ; snowy peaks
of the higher mountains glisten in the morning light. Looking beyond them we see a
change. The Androscoggin is broader, and its waters sparkle in the play of sunlight;
the valleys are bare and brown. Last winter, the river was a silver thread ; the low-
lands white as are these summits now. Only these differences between a pleasant
morning last December and this. Twenty degrees at 7 A. M.

Mr. Huntington expects to leave us soon. How quickly the winter has passed, spite
of storms, hurricanes, and clouds, of discomfort, and rather hard fare, and the many
deprivations. Smith is still far from well. To endure, without suffering in some
respect the sudden changes of weather, one needs an iron constitution ; and any one
that stays here should have a will equally as strong. It is hard on an invalid. I can
bear testimony to that.

May 12. The last press telegram goes to-night. Nor shall we any longer have pleas-
ant evening chats by telegraph with Prof. Hitchcock at Hanover. Smith is at the depot
to-night ; and the telegraph has no word for us.

May 14. The wind was high as 80, if not higher, during the night. All day, as
usual, it has been cloudy, and frost-work forming. Temperature at 7 A. m. was n,
and highest for the day, at 9 p. m., 21 . At no time was the wind lower than 46. Mr.
Huntington left at 9 a. m., in the face of a 48-mile gale, and the temperature only 14 .
I am anxious for his safety, and shall be till Smith returns. To-night, for the first time,
I am keeping "watch and ward" on the mountain-top alone.

The winter's work is done. We trust that it has not been time and labor lost.
Storms of unparalleled severity, when, for days in succession, the summit was enveloped
in clouds, and the hurricanes lasted longer, and were more violent than any yet recorded
in the United States, together with very low temperatures, have been a part of our
experience.

Though interesting, these grand atmospheric disturbances are not the most enjoyable
features of mountain life. There were mornings when the atmosphere was so trans-
parent, and the sky so pure a blue, with not a fleck of cloud, the snowy mountain-
peaks so dazzlingly white, their forms so clearly outlined and standing up in such bold
relief, that they seemed the creation of yesterday ; and mornings when earth and sky,
forests, lakes, and rivers, and the clouds above, wore a radiance and richness of color
never seen in other than mountain regions and from the loftiest elevations. There
were days when the shifting views of each hour furnished new wonders and new beau-
ties, in the play of sunlight and changing cloud-forms, every hour a picture in itself,
and perfect in details. Sunsets, too, when an ocean of clouds surrounded this island-
like summit, the only one of all the many high peaks visible above the cloud billows,
all else of earth hidden from sight. There were times when this aerial sea was bur-
nished silver, smooth and calm ; and times when its tossing waves were tipped with
crimson and golden fire.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Although our situation has been very much an isolated one, and the area of our little
world limited, our daily life has not been without incident or void of interest, to us, at
least. But now, our work being done, we go down to the busy world once more. And
though we look forward to the change with anticipations of pleasure, we half-regretfully
turn our backs upon this majestic old mountain, whose cloud-enveloped summit has so
long been our home.

Note. It is proper to add, in respect to these disconnected notes of the expedition, that this journal was kept
for private reference by Mr. Nelson, with no intention or expectation of its being published. But when an
extended publication of the history of the expedition was decided on, it was found desirable to use parts of the
journal to convey an idea of winter life upon the mountain, and of the experiences and impressions of the party.
A more connected and particular description of the meteorological phenomena, with the deductions obtained
from their comparison, is separately presented, exhibiting the practical results of the expedition.

Fig. 15. ANEMOMETER.

CHAPTER V.

CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

BY J. H. HUNTINGTON.

IHE great south-west current, that bears northward the moisture
from the gulf, and renders fertile not only the great valley of the
Mississippi but also the Atlantic states, the physical contour of the
country and its proximity to the ocean, determine chiefly the climate of
New Hampshire. Yet there is still another cause, though more remote,
that may have a greater influence than we might at first suppose. The
great current from the Pacific, at first moisture laden, comes in contact
with the mountain ranges extending north and south. The cold summits
condense the moisture, and when the current reaches the third great
range it is deprived almost altogether of its moisture ; yet this great cur-
rent affects the climate eastward, for it is in the immediate vicinity of
this mountain range that by far the greater proportion of the atmos-
pheric disturbances are generated, the influence of which extends to the
Atlantic coast, and gives us the precipitation of moisture that renders
fertile our valleys, hill-sides, and mountain slopes. -

After passing the third mountain range, the air, deprived of its mois-
ture, allows the rays of the sun to pass through it, and very little heat is
absorbed until they come near the surface of the earth. The thin
stratum of air that contains moisture becomes heated, and at intervals it

CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 121

rises, thus creating an area of low pressure, which is the nucleus of the
storm area that is carried eastward across the continent. The other
great storm-centre is within the tropics. The great current of the south-
east trade-wind infringes on the north-east trade-wind, and produces the
cyclones that are so destructive in the West Indies and on the coast of
Florida. The cyclone thus generated moves along our coast, generally
with greatly diminished force, and thus we have our north-east storms.
The character of these storms was first pointed out by Franklin, and
the theory as to their origin has been discussed by Espy, Redfield,
Maury, and others, while Prof. Joseph Henry was the first to explain the
origin of the storms that move eastward across the continent. In sum-
mer, the disturbances seem to originate chiefly in the vicinity of the
Rocky Mountains, while in spring, autumn, and winter, frequently, they
have their origin within the tropics.

From the observations of the Signal Service, we find that there are
from seven to thirteen areas of low barometer developed per month
within, or pass along the border of, the United States. Of these, from
one to three pass directly across or along the border of New Hampshire.

Weather Map.

The weather map on the opposite page shows graphically the tracks
of the storm-centres for January, 1874. It will be seen that two of the
storm-centres passed directly across New Hampshire ; and it will also be
seen that the storms, as a whole, are chiefly of the type that have their
origin in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains. The dotted line from the
Pacific coast indicates only the probability that the storm-centre passed
over that section of the country. The storms from the south usually pass
along or nearer the coast than the one represented on this map. By trac-
ing each storm-centre, a person can get some idea as to the probability of
the Signal Service being able to give accurate forecasts of the weather.
On account of our high latitude, sea border, our lofty mountains and nar-
row valleys, for our limited area the climate is exceedingly varied. On
the coast, the cold of winter and the heat of summer are moderated by the
breezes of the ocean. Inland, for a very few days in summer, we have
more than the heat of the tropics ; while on our highest mountain sum-
mits in winter, we have the climate of Greenland, if anything, more
vol. 1. 16

122 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

intense, on account of the fierce winds. In the southern portion of the
state we have the trees and the birds, and we raise the grain and the
fruits common in the Northern states, while on the slopes of the moun-
tains and on the highlands in the vicinity of Connecticut lake, we
have the trees and the birds, and raise only the grain and the fruits of
the far north.

Notwithstanding our extremes of temperature, we have a climate far
more healthful than that of most of the states east of the Rocky Moun-
tains. The extreme heat of summer is of so short a duration that it does
not produce the enervating effect of long continued heat, though of a
considerably lower temperature. The bracing air of winter, and the
charm of our autumn months, largely compensate for the few extremes
of summer and of winter. The lassitude produced by months of heat in
southern latitudes, and the extremes of cold, accompanied by fierce winds
that descend with such fell swoop in the west, are both unknown ; for
with us winds of great velocity, accompanied by intense cold, except on
the summits of our mountains, are extremely rare.

Moisture of the Atmosphere.

The climate of a country, as affecting vegetation, does not depend
altogether upon the absolute amount of rain-fall during the year ; but in
New Hampshire, particularly, the rain must be distributed through the
months when vegetation is growing, so that drouth will not check its
growth. Even when vegetation is growing, there must be other condi-
tions of moisture than rain-fall. The most important is the relative
humidity of the atmosphere. This is the relative amount of moisture in
the atmosphere, compared with that which it is capable of sustaining at
a given temperature. Saturation is assumed as ioo, and perfectly dry air
as o. The following is the absolute amount of moisture at the given
temperatures.

Degrees F. Weight in grains Troy.
30 2.04

50 4.08

70 7.99

80 IO.94

Suppose the temperature is 30 , and the absolute amount of moisture
in the atmosphere is 2 grains, then there is half the amount present that

CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 123

the atmosphere can sustain: hence the relative humidity is 50 per cent.
Now, if the temperature rises just above Jo, and the amount of moisture
is not increased, there is only one fourth the amount of moisture that the
atmosphere can sustain at that temperature ; hence the relative humidity
is 25 per cent. If, on the other hand, the temperature falls to 30 , there
is more moisture than the atmosphere can sustain, and it is precipitated.
The air feels moist or dry, not from the absolute amount of moisture
present, but from its relative humidity. If the per-centage is small, the
moisture evaporates rapidly from the earth and from vegetation, as well
as from everything containing moisture. The opposite effect is seen on
the approach of rain. After a drouth, water is seen where there had been
none for weeks ; and the partially withered leaves assume their natural
shape, so much so that we should scarcely know that they had been
affected by a drouth : and all this before a drop of rain has fallen. Why ?
Because the air is approaching saturation, and moisture is no longer
evaporated from the earth and vegetation.

The vapor of water diffused through the air is an obstruction to the
free passage of the heat of the sun, and also prevents the sudden radia-
tion of the heat that has been absorbed by the earth. "This," says
Buchan, "is undoubtedly one of the most important and conservative
functions of the invisible moisture of the atmosphere. For if the mois-
ture was drained out of it, and its diathermacy thereby rendered
complete, the sun's rays would burn up everything by their intolerable
fierceness ; " and during the night the escape of heat by radiation would
be so rapid that, ere the sun appeared again, everything would perish that
a freezing temperature could kill. We see the effect of the want of
moisture frequently in New Hampshire, in the extremely hot days and
cold nights that invariably accompany a long drouth.

Effect of Forests.

How far the removal or renewal of forests affects our climate, is some-
thing in which every one is interested. From the data that we have,
it may be impossible to generalize to any great extent ; yet there are some
things that we can learn from the observations that have been made.
While it is stoutly contended that there has been no decrease in the
annual amount of rain-fall in the eastern part of the United States, there

124 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

are facts that show that forests have a great influence on the climate, if
not on the annual rain-fall, yet on its distribution during the months of
the year and the hours of the day.

In the central and southern portion of New Hampshire, the hay crop
is frequently cut short by drouth, while in the northern portion of the
state, often the same year, the hay crop is above the average; yet the
annual rain-fall is less in the northern than either in the central or
southern part of the state. But in the north there are abundant forests ;
and the rain is distributed through the months when it is needed for the
crops to grow and mature. The effect of the diminution and increase of
vegetation is shown in the well known facts in regard to Lake Tacarigua,
Venezuela. During the last thirty years of the past century, it was found
to be gradually drying up; but when the valley of Aragua was devastated
by war, the country, by the rapid growth of vegetation, was soon covered
with forests ; and it was observed by Boussingault that the water of the
lake had risen so that it covered much of the country that was formerly
cultivated.

The gradual rise in the height of the water of the Great Salt lake, in
Utah, at the rate nearly of a foot per year, and the gradual increase in
rain-fall more than three inches per year since the country has been cul-
tivated, and there has been a great increase of vegetation on account of
irrigation, is an important example, as showing the effect of the increase
of vegetation.*

The preservation of the vegetation on our mountains is of great
importance, not only in modifying the distribution of rain, but also in
moderating the extremes of cold in winter.

Our mountains, especially the higher summits, except where it has been
destroyed by fire, are covered to a considerable depth by peat formed
chiefly from moss and lichens. Now it has been found by experiment
"that peat moss can absorb more than twice its own weight of water, dry
clay nearly its own weight, dry earth, or garden mould, more than half its
own weight, and dry sand a little more than a third of its own weight.
With equal times of drying, under the same circumstances, peat moss lost
two thirds of all the water it contained, clay and earth more than three

* Monthly Reports of the Department of Agriculture,

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CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 1 25

fourths, and sand more than nine tenths." Farmers can determine the
capacity that different soils have for retaining moisture, by taking two
boxes, filling each with a different kind of soil, and pouring an equal
quantity of water on each, and then suspending each of the boxes at the
end of a balance, so adjusted that the bar shall be horizontal. Then, if
the soils are unequal in their capacity for retaining moisture, one box will
soon rise above the level of the other. This experiment was first per-
formed by D. Milne Home. When a mountain has been denuded of its
forests and vegetable mould, the rain that falls upon it flows immediately
into the streams, and is carried to the ocean; then, before another rain,
the streams are dried up, the rivers are greatly contracted, and the next
rain causes a freshet; so we have a succession of drouths and floods.
On the other hand, vegetable mould retains the moisture, and it is grad-
ually evaporated, a high relative humidity is maintained, springs gush
forth from the slopes of the mountains, the streams are full, but not to
overflowing, and a slight change in the temperature causes rain to fall in
gentle showers.

There is one marked feature in regard to the mountains in New Hamp-
shire that have been burned, namely, the fact that the fire has, in
general, spread only over their eastern slopes, and when it has reached
the summits it has extended but a short distance down the western
slopes, showing that the moisture-bearing currents of wind come from
the west or south-west. Although it is of great importance that the
mountains should be covered with vegetation, yet it is of no less impor-
tance that there should be a certain amount of forest over the entire
country, and this amount should be at least thirty per cent, of the whole
area. In some parts of the state the area covered by forests is much less.
The general effect of forests on temperature is to make the nights
warmer and the days cooler, and to moderate the extreme heat of sum-
mer, making it less intense, and the cold of winter less severe. In New
Hampshire, during the winter, in calm, clear weather, the cold is more
intense, or, at least, the thermometer goes lower in the valleys than on
moderate elevations, or even on the summit of Mt. Washington. As the
stratum of air in contact with the earth often becomes colder by contact,
and as the cold air is heavier than the warmer currents, the cold air flows
down the valleys like currents of water. Hence in the Connecticut and

126 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Merrimack valleys, where these currents converge and become united,
the cold is the most intense. Where the mountain slopes and valleys are
wooded, the flow of these cold currents is greatly impeded. In windy
and stormy weather there is, however, a gradual decrease of temperature
according to the height. This decrease, comparing the observations at
Hanover with those on the summit of Mt. Washington, is one degree
for every three hundred and fifty-four feet ; but observations continued
for a series of years might greatly modify this ; or, if we make the com-
parison at different seasons of the year, we find that the decrease, taking
the monthly mean, is one degree for every five hundred feet in January,
while it is the same in May for only two hundred and eighty-four feet.

Charts and Diagrams.

In order to present clearly the leading features of the climate of New
Hampshire, we have prepared several charts and diagrams. These are
chiefly the results of observations taken under the direction of the
Smithsonian Institution.

On CJiart I, we have traced the yearly isothermal lines. In the vicinity
of Manchester there is a small area where the yearly mean, 48 , is greater
than in any other part of the state. The observations extend over a
period of fourteen years ; hence, they ought to give at least an approxi-
mate average. An extended curve of 47 , of which Manchester is the
centre, lies some five miles beyond the first, and forms an entirely isolated
area. In contrast with this comparatively warm area, we find directly
west an island of cold with the isotherm of 42 , occupying Dublin, Nel-
son, Stoddard, and parts of the adjoining towns. The isotherm of 46
begins at the state line in New Ipswich, runs northward, then turns
south of east, crosses the Merrimack at Thornton's Ferry, and strikes the
coast at Portsmouth ; thence it is deflected northward in a great curve that
passes above Lake Winnipiseogee, and returns to the coast at the mouth of
the Piscataqua river. The isotherm of 45 passes through Dover, runs
northward near the state line, and crosses into Maine from Effingham ;
the other end of it begins at South Charlestown, is deflected southward
through Francestown, then runs northward nearly parallel with the
Merrimack, passes around Newfound lake above Squam, thence through
Tamworth, Madison, and Eaton, connecting with the other part of it in

CLIMATOLOGY" Mf

-. >

/-l

Chart 2.
By J. H. Huntington.

\ '* V stWBC

= <

Lines of Equal Summer Temper- ^>^P^ "X AiJj ilb^^ - c >'-"' '-
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CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. \2"J

Maine. The isotherm of 44 on the west, is a sharpe curve beginning
at North Charlestown, and it has its further limit in Danbury. On the
eastern border of the state there is a short curve on the Saco in Conway.
The isotherm of 43 is similar in shape to that of 44 , but is some ten
miles northward.

The isotherm of 42 begins on the Connecticut in Plainfield, and
extends eastward, but is soon deflected northward, passes above the White
Mountains, through Randolph, Gorham, and Shelburne. The isotherm
of 41 is just below Hanover. Westward in Vermont it is deflected
southward ; but in New Hampshire it is nearly parallel with 42 , except
that from Lisbon a branch goes almost directly north to Lunenburg, Vt.
The isotherm of 40 , the lowest mean average in the settled portions of
the state, begins near North Stratford, and probably extends eastward to
Umbagog lake. As we ascend the mountains the mean annual tempera-
ture decreases rapidly, so that on the summit of Mt. Washington we have
an isotherm of 25 .

Chart II. Referring to chart II, we have isotherals, or lines of equal
summer temperature ; and isochimenals, or lines of equal winter tem-
perature. For the isotherals, we have a small area about Manchester,
included within the line of 70 ; there is also an isotheral of 70 , extend-
ing along the northern border of Lake Winnipiseogee, thence through
Ossipee to the line of Maine. The isotheral of 69 is below Rochester,
and there is a more extended area of the same through Tamworth, Madi-
son, and Eaton. The isotheral of 68 corresponds with the isotherm of
47 . The curve of 6y is the most variable of all the isotheral lines.

It begins at the Connecticut, near Claremont, is deflected southward
to Francestown, then northward to Earnstead, then southward again as
far as Exeter, when it turns north and passes between Dover and Great
Falls. The curve of 66 begins on the coast near Portsmouth, and
passes up the Piscataquis to Dover, where it is deflected eastward.

The isotheral of 65 passes up the river from Hanover, thence up the
Ammonoosuc, makes a sharp curve to the Connecticut, at Lancaster,
then runs through Randolph, Gorham, and Shelburne ; that of 64 runs
through Stoddard, Nelson, Dublin, and Peterborough; that of 63 begins
in North Littleton, goes northward through Lunenburg, Vt, and then is
deflected eastward and across New Hampshire, near the Grand Trunk

128 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Railway. The isotheral of 62 s is in the towns of Colebrook, Dixville,
and Errol; and that of 47 touches the top of Mt. Washington.

The general direction of the isochiraenal lines are the same as those of
the isotheral. We have an island of cold on the line between Cheshire
and Hillsborough counties, a warm area in the vicinity of Manchester, a
gradual increase of the cold inland from the ocean at Portsmouth, and
the same deflection northward, but not to so great a degree, of the
lines beginning at the Connecticut. The marked conformity of the
isochimenals of 19 , 17, and 16 , with the isotherals of 65 , 63 , and
62 , is quite remarkable.

CJiart III. We have here represented the entire annual aqueous pre-
cipitation. The area of greatest precipitation is in the central portion
of the state, in the vicinity of Newfound lake, and it extends north at
least as far as Ashland, and southward probably as far as Franklin. The
rain-fall in this area, including melted snow, is 46 inches. There is an
area of 45 inches from Hooksett southward toward the state line, and the
table would give us a small area in the vicinity of West Enfield ; but, as
there seems to be some doubt as to the accuracy for that locality, we have
omitted it on the chart. In the south-west part of the state, below a line
from Claremont and extending to a point just north of Concord, there is
a large area where the precipitation is 43 inches. There is an area
of 42 inches north of Claremont, perhaps ten miles in width, extending
to the Merrimack river, thence northward along the west side of Lake
Winnipiseogee, when the area widens so that it includes almost the whole
portion of the state north of the lake to a line above the Grand Trunk
Railway. In the north part of the state, above 42, there is an area of
41 inches extending across the state, and having a width of about twenty
miles. There is another small area of 41 inches, extending from Bath in
a curve southward as far as Plainfield. Between this and the Connec-
ticut, embracing a part of Orford, Lyme, and Hanover, there is an area
where the precipitation is only a little more than 40 inches. Also, the
whole portion of the state north of Stratford is included in the area of 40
inches. On the sea-coast, at least in the vicinity of Portsmouth, the rain-
fall is less than in any other part of the state, being 35 inches, but it
increases as we go inland. At Dover there are 36 inches, and at Wolfe-
borough 38. Since the distribution of rain-fall depends in a measure on

i:'

CLIMATOLOGY l^fff

OP i

HEW HAMPSHIRE 1

Chart 3.

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By J. H. Huntington.

EfilEI] EXPLANATION.

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CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 1 29

the changes of temperature, to this may be due the increase inland from
the ocean.

The following record shows the time of the closing and opening of
some of our lakes. That of Winnipiseogee is as follows :

Closed with Ice. Clear of Ice.

1867 December 19. 1868 April ro.

1869 January 19. 1869 April 28.

1870 January 23. 1870 April 21.

1871 January 14. 1871 April 10.

1872 January 3. 1872 May 4.

1873 December 17. 1873 May 4.

Umbagog lake generally closes about November 1 5 ; was entirely
clear of ice, April 28, 1871 ; May 10, 1872; May 11, 1873.

Connecticut lake closes earlier and opens later, though the figures
given to me, but not reproduced, are not exact.

The Phenomena observed on Mts. Moosilauke and Washington.

In the summer of 1869, I proposed to Prof. Hitchcock to occupy the
summit of Mt. Washington the following winter, for the purpose of taking
meteorological observations. He heartily approved of the undertaking,
and made an effort to secure a building on the summit of that mountain.
In this, however, he failed ; but he did obtain permission for me to occupy
a building on the summit of Moosilauke. In late autumn, preparations
were made, and on the last day of the year of 1869, with Mr. A. F.
Clough as photographer, I ascended this mountain, and remained there
during the January and February following. The expedition was carried
out chiefly at my own expense. We found out many things that were
novel and interesting, and some that were new to science. The beautiful
frost-work of our mountain summits was here for the first time photo-
graphed and described ; and we experienced winds of greater velocity
than had ever before been measured.

Our observations here made us still more desirous of spending a winter
on Mt. Washington. This we were able to do the following winter,
through the cooperation of Prof. Hitchcock, Mr. S. A. Nelson, the U. S.
Signal Service, and the seventy-five individuals and firms, besides railroad
corporations, that furnished material aid. The mountain has since been
occupied by the Signal Service, and last summer a building was erected
for the use of the observers.
vol. 1. 17

I30 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Fr O S T-Wo R K .

The frost-work is the most remarkable phenomenon of our mountain
summits. It is difficult to convey, in words, any idea of its wonderful
form and beauty. It was not easy, at first, to understand how it could be
formed; but we are able now to give a plausible theory to account for
this the most extraordinary of all the handiwork of Nature. It is very
rarely formed except when the wind is at some point between north and
west, and only when there are clouds on the mountains. It begins with
mere points on everything the wind reaches, on the rocks, on the rail-
way, and on every part of the buildings, even on the glass. On the south
side of the buildings and the high rocks it is very slight, as the wind
reaches there only in eddying gusts. When the surface is rough, the
points, as they begin, are an inch or more apart ; when smooth, it almost
entirely covers the surface at the very beginning ; but soon only a few
points elongate, so that on whatever surface it begins to form, it has soon
everywhere the same general appearance, presenting the same beautiful,
feathery-like forms.

"Thus Nature works, as if defying art;
And in defiance of her rival powers,
Performing such inimitable feats,
As she, with all her rules, can never reach."

In going up Mt. Washington, we do not see the frost-work until we get
above the present limit of the trees. It is nearly a mile above before it
is seen in its characteristic forms, and it is only immediately about the
summit that it presents its most attractive features. On all our moun-
tains north of latitude 43 50', that are more than thirty-five hundred
feet in height, it can be seen extending down to a certain line, and this
line extends along the whole mountain range. Everywhere it appears to
be at the same elevation. We notice that it always forms towards the
wind, never from it ; and the rapidity with which it forms, and the great
length of the horizontal masses, are truly wonderful. On the piles of
stones south of the house, the horizontal masses are sometimes five and
six feet in length. On the southern exposures, instead of the frost-work,
especially on the telegraph poles by the railway, there are only masses of

CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

131

pure ice, which have always a peculiar hue of greenish blue ; and there is
a striking contrast between this and the pure white of the frost-work on
the side opposite. When the thermometer ranges from 25 to 30 , and
the wind is southward, ice often forms to the thickness of a foot or more
on the telegraph poles near the summit. These icy masses are formed
evidently by the condensation of the vapor of the atmosphere. The frost-
work is also formed by the condensation of vapor, but, besides the vapor,
the air must be filled with very minute spicuke of ice. As the vapor
condenses, these are caught, and thus the horizontal, feathery masses are
formed. This accounts for the facts that we have observed, namely, that
it forms when the wind is northward, and always towards the wind.

Fig. 16 will give a general idea of the appearance of the Tip-top house
when the frost-work has formed to a thickness of two or three feet on
the building and the rocks.

Fig. 16. TIP-TOP HOUSE IN WINTER.

The beginning of the frost-work is shown in the accompanying helio-
type entitled Frost Feathers. Here they are formed on the surface of a
rock. The longest points are ten inches in length, and each presents

132 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

serrated and feathery edges. This view was almost the very first ever
taken of this peculiar form of snow-ice; and had it not been for the
self-denial of my late friend Mr. A. F. Clough, and his intense love o
the grand and beautiful in nature, it is probable that many years would
have elapsed before another artist would have had the inclination, much
less the courage, to encounter the difficulties and dangers that presented
themselves to a person who contemplated spending a winter on the
summit of one of our highest mountains.

In the illustration entitled Snow-ice, the frost feathers are elongated,
and form immense feathery masses two or three feet in length. On
account of the boards being loose, it has fallen off from the side of the
building ; but this is an advantage, since the corner of the building can be
seen, and one can get a better idea of its form and length. The view was
taken on the summit of Mt. Washington by Mr. B. W. Kilburn, in 1872,
who, by his perseverance and skill, has made our Alpine scenery known
to tens of thousands who have never visited the mountains.

The Weather at High Altitudes.

As to the extraordinary weather on our mountains in winter, the follow-
ing description is a typical illustration of two days on Moosilauke :

On the first day of January the sun rose clear. We were above the clouds, and a
grander spectacle one does not often behold. The clouds seemed to roll and surge like
the billows of the ocean. They were of every dark and of every brilliant hue : here
they were resplendent with golden light, and there they were of silvery brightness ;
here of rosy tints, there of sombre gray; here of snowy whiteness, there of murky
darkness ; here gorgeous with the play of colors, and there the livid light flashes deep
down into the gulfs formed by the eddying mist, while

" Far overhead
The sky, without a vapor or a stain,
Intensely blue, even deepened into purple
When nearer the horizon it received
A tincture from the mist that there dissolved
Into the viewless air. . . . The sky bent round
The awful dome of a most mighty temple,
Built by Omnipotent hand for nothing less
Than infinite worship. So beautiful,
So bright, so glorious ! . . . Such a majesty
In yon pure vault ! So many dazzling tints
In yonder waste of waves."

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CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE. 1 33

But above all these clouds, these flashes of light, this darkness, rises in stately grandeur
the summit of Mt. Washington, "sublime in its canopy of snow;" and Lafayette, with
a few peaks of lesser altitude, glitters in the bright sunlight. As the sun rises higher,
the picture fades away, and the whole country is flooded with light. Did this grandeur,
this magnificence, this grand display of lights, of shadows, and shades, these clouds,
so resplendent, so beautiful, portend a storm? In the evening the wind changed to
the south-east, and increased in velocity.

At daylight, on the second, it was snowing. This soon changed to sleet, and then to
rain ; and, at 8 A. m., the velocity of the wind was 70 miles per hour. At 12, there was
a perfect tempest. Although the wind was so fearful, yet Mr. Clough was determined
to know the exact rate at which it was blowing. By clinging to the rocks he succeeded
in reaching a place where he could expose the anemometer, and not be blown away him-
self. He found the velocity to be 974 miles per hour, the greatest velocity, until that
time, ever recorded. When he reached the house he was thoroughly saturated, the
wind having driven the rain through every garment, although they were of the heaviest
material, as though they were made of the lightest fabric. During the afternoon, the
rain and gale continued with unabated violence. The rain was driven through every
crack and crevice of the house, and the floor of our room was flooded. So fierce was
the draught of the stove, that the wind literally took away every spark of fire, leaving
only the half-charred wood in the stove ; and it was with the greatest difficulty that we
succeeded in rekindling it. During the evening, the wind seemed to increase in fury ;
and although the window was somewhat protected, yet nearly every glass that was
exposed was broken by the pressure of the gale. As the lights were broken, the fire
was again extinguished ; and even my hurricane lantern was blown out as quickly as if
the flame had been unprotected. Darkness, if not terror, reigned ; but calmness, with
energy, are requisites for such an occasion, and, fortunately, they were not wanting
now. Our necessities quickly showed us what to do. By nailing boards across the
windows, and by the use of blankets, we stopped the openings the wind had made.
After 9 p. M. there were occasional lulls in the storm, and by 12 it had considerably
abated, at least enough to bring on that depression that naturally succeeds a period of
intense excitement ; so we willingly yielded ourselves to sleep, to dream of gentle
zephyrs and sunny skies.

Although as a rule rains in winter are not common on the summits of
our high mountains, yet observations thus far show that every third
winter they may be quite frequent.

As already indicated, the clouds are often spread out in a thin stratum
over a large area, and we look forth upon an illimitable sea of mist glit-
tering in the sunlight, while every peak, except that on which we stand,
is concealed by clouds. So it is not uncommon for it to be a dark day in
the valleys, while on the summit of the mountain we are in the bright

134 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

sunlight. Sometimes the clouds are two thousand feet below the summit
of Mt. Washington ; in that case, innumerable mountain peaks protrude,
and seem like islands in an ocean bounded only by the sky. The forma-
tion and the dissolving of clouds is an interesting feature. It often
happens that the whole country westward is covered with clouds, but
when they have passed the ridge running directly south from Mt. Wash-
ington, they are instantly dissolved, never passing a certain point,
although moving at the rate of fifty or sixty miles per hour, when that
point is reached. In spring and summer, instead of these horizontal
layers, the clouds assume cumulose forms, and from the mountain they
can be seen rising vertically thousands of feet in an incredibly short
space of time. During the steady cold weather of winter, the upper
clouds were never seen to move except in the same direction as the wind
on the summit of the mountain.

Wind and Rain.

Of all phenomena, the wind is the most terrific. Usually during
periods of storm, the wind increases steadily in velocity until it reaches
its culmination : then there are lulls, at first only for an instant, and these
continually lengthen until the storm ceases. The greatest velocity that
has been measured is 140 miles per hour; and during one night the mean
of four observations was 128 miles. The most remarkable fact in relation
to the wind is the great velocity on the summit when there is a calm at
the base. One observation shows that there was a wind of 96 miles per
hour on the summit, when, at the depot of the Mt. Washington Railway,
2,677 f ee t below, there was not wind enough to move the anemometer.
The observations were taken, under the direction of the War depart-
ment, during the month of May, 1872, at 7 a. m., 9 a. m., 12 m., 4 p. m., and

9 P. M.

In general, winds of very great velocity are usually limited to winter,
and to the time when there are clouds on the mountain. The prevailing
winds for the entire year are west and north-west. It is a noticeable fact
that, while the northerly and westerly winds have a much greater velocity
on the summit than below, the southerly winds have frequently a greater
velocity five hundred or a thousand feet below than on the summit. In
Fig. 17, the curve represents the velocity of the wind. Fig. 18 shows

CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

135

the rise and fall of the barometer. The correspondence between the two
is very striking, especially during periods of great disturbance.

O O CO-*J CM/i 4^ W tO H *0 00^0 0\

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Aqueous Precipitation.

The observations for one year give the amount of aqueous precipitation
as 55 inches, and it is confined mainly to summer and autumn, the entire
precipitation for winter and spring being given as only about eight inches,
leaving 47 inches for summer and autumn. There is no means of deter-
mining the actual amount of frost-work and snow, but we know that the

136 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

snow-fall is very slight during autumn and winter, the snow-cloud being
below the summit ; but in spring, when showers become frequent in the
valleys, there are invariably heavy falls of snow on the mountain. During
a thunder-storm in April, when the thunder could be heard and the light-
ning seen, we were having one of the thickest snow-storms of the season.
Nearly all the optical phenomena seen elsewhere on mountain summits
have been observed on Mt. Washington. Rainbows, with three supernu-
merary bows, have been seen for hours on the clouds ; coronas, of large
and small dimensions ; anthelia or glories of light, the prismatic circles
surrounding the shadow cast far out on the clouds ; halos, and parhelia.
The spectre of the Brocken, though rare, was seen by Mr. S. A. Nelson.

Diagrams.

Diagram I shows the fluctuations in the annual rain-fall in the Atlantic
states, Maine to Maryland, from 1805 to 1867. From the fluctuations
as shown in this diagram, there are groups of years of unusual amount
of rain, followed by groups of years of drouth ; and, on the whole, it indi-
cates an increase of rain. The figures on the left are the per-centage
of the mean amount.

Diagram II shows the fluctuations in the annual rain-fall in the upper
Connecticut valley, from observations taken at Lunenburg, Vt. This
shows similar groups of years. An unusual amount of rain-fall does not
necessarily imply that it was distributed throughout the year, so that
there was no drouth in summer; for, while the amount of rain in 1871
was above the average, yet the summer of that year was regarded as very
dry.

Diagram III shows the fluctuations in the annual snow-fall at the same
locality, and by the same observer, as in Diagram II. The fluctuation,
however, is greater than in the rain-fall; for the greatest amount, 167.5
inches, is more than twice as much as the mean, 83.1 inches, and the
least amount, 41 inches, is less than half the mean; yet there are similar
groups of years, though at no time does it show more than three consec-
utive years, when the amount was greater than the mean.

Diagram IV shows the annual fluctuations in rain-fall at Lake Village
from 1857 to 1873. The observations were taken under direction of the
Lake Company.

T/uc7.u<xtion.s in .Jlmiurtl J\'i> ttj-'cill on the
Jtllmitic Sea.- Coast .CWLairie to JM<rij7ncl;
J'rom Smithsonian J~(ain T<Me , Ittj C.JI.SchoXb.

l.So
J..45
J..4o
XS5
X.3o
1.23
J,2o

1.1S
1JO

J.OS

1.00

.05
.30
.85
.80

Fluctuations in J?/*7 Tfctinfall of ihcT/j>}>er
Connecticut Vaileu jfroyn Observation* by

S>8/% Pi A IS* II it 9

3'tllCllbUilOll.S irt- .^lO^ft^l of hhe Tfpper

Connecticut "Valley /^frotn. ObServutians
hvf X.Ji. Cutting, MT.Ji; Tsunenhxirg.Vt.

s % %

9 9 3

ISO

t.Oi

l.oo
.95
.Bo
.85

ill

nullum

-fo.il nJ. _i, a. /car fTiil^^c ; frvm Ot>-
2Lt clJc Co **tj* t try -

VOL. I. 1 8

I38 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Diagram V is a comparison of the extreme maximum and minimum
temperatures of the 7 a. m., 2 p. m., and 9 p. m. observations at Claremont
and Stratford for 1867 and 1868. These places were selected for compari-
son, since Claremont is the most southern point in the Connecticut valley
where observations have been taken, and Stratford the most northern.
It is noticeable that, while the minimum of Stratford is less than at Clare-
mont, the maximum is greater at Stratford than at Claremont. This is
the general rule, though there are exceptions to both.

Diagram VI is a comparison of the monthly mean temperatures of
Exeter, Claremont, and Stratford for 1864. It will be observed that, in
the extreme maximum and minimum, the difference is greatest in winter
and least in summer; but in the monthly mean, that the difference
between Claremont and Stratford is greatest in summer and least in
winter.

Diagram VII is a comparison of the monthly mean temperatures of
Mt. Washington and Lunenburg, Vt.

Diagram VIII is a comparison of the maximum and minimum tem-
peratures at Exeter, Manchester, Claremont, North Bridgeton, Me., and
St. Johnsbury, Vt, during the cold period of January, 1861.

Diagram IX is a comparison of maximum and minimum mean temper-
atures for the cold period of January, 1 871, of Mt. Washington, Tarn worth,
Contoocookville, Stratford, and Whitefield.

Diagram X shows graphically the difference in the velocity of the wind
at the station on the summit of Mt. Washington, and a station at the
depot of the Mt. Washington Railway, 2,677 f eet below the summit. The
figures on the left and right are miles per hour.

It',

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DIA8RAM V.A

.Jlfaximum Temperature al Claremonl and Stratford-; J8G7 and 1868 .

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.ft lean Temperature of J2 xeter * Clare -
inoni and Stratford; 1864.

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MIH IMtf MiTE MP SRA TMR E

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Co/<l Period ; <Jan.lO-14,186t.

PlA@PAJttl IXi

Co2df Tcriod; Jan. 21-25, 1871.

a a

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35
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Velocity of "Wind at Summit and aXJ&(u>eof+ALt.J/Ya.zhington.;Jfnij,18Zl

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h-; 66 6i

Vol.I,
&S.I.
Reg.,

&S.I.
&S.I
,Vol.I,

Vol.I.
,I.,Vo

Vol.I.
Vol.I.
Vol.I.

"3
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&S.I.
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Coll'n.
& P.O
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1. B. Barrows.
Lss't Surgeon,
urgeon Delany.
t. C. Mack.
. N. Bell.
!.. T. Hanscom an

Winnipiseogee L
P. Hutchinson

eneca A. Ladd.
Winnipiseogee L
P. Hutchinson

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A. Chase an
N. Purmort
Prof. Ira an
U.S. Signal

B. Brown.

C. Marsh.
H. A. Cutti

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Names
f Stations.

nish, Me.,
eburg, Me.,
Constitution
tsmouth, .
donderry,
ichester, .
Sarnsteadj
land, . . .
tol, . . .
e Village,
edith, . .
rs, . . . .
feborough, .

Claremont, .
West Enfield, .
Hanover, . . .
Mt. Washington,
Stratford, . .
Woodstock, Vt.,
Lunenburg, Vt.,

~ -- 1 C j _C '* _!^ M U "^J

o
O

VOL. I.

142

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

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CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

143

TABLES of Monthly Snow and Rain fall, Monthly Mean, Maximum, and

Minimum Temperatures.

Compiled from the Smithsonian and other Observations, by J. H. Huntington.

1870.

a
a
> >

3
U

a
> 1

'/1

V
J3

f Snow, inches, .
Rain, or melted snow, .

22.50
2.25

28.25

5-15

17.61
4.41

!.-;

i-74

4-56

2.47

3-63

2.69

14.85
4-85

11.40

1. 14

Date,

Thermometer, maximum.

17
52

18
46

31
55

28
78

29
84

24
92

7 x -5

58.5

I
45

Date,

Thermometer, minimum,

14, 16
12

4
12

J 7-5

1
20

7
3i

51-2

1
5

27
37-5

12
36.75

27
16

12-5

30
-18.7

16.35

42.50
5-19

24.18

11.

3-54

43-65
2.22

53- 2 3
2.48

68.28

69.98
2-47

64-35
3.86

56.75
i-45

45-73

2-5
4-47

33-33

ii-5
4-33

Snow, inches, . . . .
Rain, or melted snow, .

35-3
<M5

1.63

17-
1.70

Date,

Thermometer, maximum,

18
44

3 1
54

7 2

30
86

24
92

24
98

7
89

2, 16

2
44

Date,

Thermometer, minimum,

14
12

12
18

1
25

5, 12
33

1
52

27
40

27
20

16
12

30
12

15-43

36-5
5.12

23.60

24-5o
2.60

42.83

3-5o
3-2?

52.14
1. 81

68.25

5-35

70.05
1.82

63.88

56.98
4-93

44.80

4-
3.80

32.18

20.83

26.75
2.51

O
O
f" 1 1

'Snow, inches, . . . .
Rain, or melted snow, .

25-39
6.20

1.03

2.
I.87

Date,

Thermometer, maximum,

23
52

12, 18

30
57

16
83-5

25
91.5

24
90

9 r -5

1, 2

16
70

9
61

23
5i-5

R
O
O

Thermometer, minimum.

1 +
5

5
14

4
8

1
18

6
29-5

2
43

27
34

3!-5

27
17

16
15

21
27

Mean,

23.60

16.07

23.66

42.04

54-o5

68.04

70.10

65.61

57.01

45-71

34-17

16.49

Rain, or melted snow, .

23.05
4-55

40.
4.10

17-25
4-52

2.50

4.00

3-5

6.42

5o
3-95

9-
5-25

8.
1.30

Date,

Thermometer, maximum,

18
44

3 1

27
68

3, 3 1

29
94

9
90

4
80

w
55

Date,

Thermometer, minimum,

14
12

2
13

4
25

7
35

22
50

26
4 3

12
38

27
17

22
18

25
18

1 1

Mean,

21.88

16.23

2 3-73

42.70

53-43

63.68

67.25

59-75

46.20

33-55

21.55

'Snow, inches, . . . .
Rain, or melted snow,

27.97
8. 58

40.70
7-5o

24.40
2.48

2.10

5-99

I -3

2.63

1.62

2.45

i-i5

4.81

5.5S

6.41
4-5

i3-5o
i-95

Date,

Thermometer, maximum,

28
79

30
83

25
95

24
97

9
96

1
35

16, 25
7 1

5
56

1
49

Date,

Thermometer, minimum,

14
9

5
20

4
4

1
25

7
37

29
53

1
93

27
48

27, 29
34

27
10

20, 24
J 3

18.05

26.80

43-19

55-5o

69.09

7i-3 2

68.20

57-99

46.77

35-27

144

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

TEMPERATURE

Prepared for the Geological Survey of

Name
of Station.

Charlestown, .
Claremont, . .

Concord, . .

Contoocookville,
Dover, . .

Dublin, . . .
Dunbarton,
Epping, . . .
Exeter, . . .
Farmington,
Farmouth, b
Ft. Constitution,

Francestown, .

Great Falls, c .

Hanover (D.C.),

Hanover, d . .
Keene, . . .
Littleton, e .
Londonderry, .
Loudon Ridge,
Manchester,

Mason, . . .

Mt. Washington,
N. Barnstead, "

Portsmouth,

Portsmouth,
Salisbury, .
Shelburne, .

Stratford,

Wakefield, .
West Enfield,
Whitefield, .

.?
'53

575 l8 -35

292 20.84

381

150 24.
:86o 18.52
75027.74

22.47

41.97

3-79 43-51 54-9 6

3'-49

31.80
27.70
30.08

43-21

42.70

30-99
42.60

56.17

53-7
49.14

54-54

65.27
65.86

63.90
63.18
66.44

o
69.96
69.21

69.91

70.40
67.15
72.84

3
<

68.11
66.56

66.80

64.70
64.18
70.25

58.48

59- 3 5

45-67
46-53

48.82

46.40
45-44

37.11

37-96

39-83

5-5

33-67

36.65

26.51
23.68

24.87

28.
25.20
21.14
26.38

43-9

43-62

42.73
37-94
42.41

5
3

67.01
67.52

66.33
64.84
69.84

47-37

48.64

46.90

45-49
48.91

24.27
20.41
26.30

21.50

22. 81

5819.
300 22.20
490 23.98

40 24.89

..J18.58

3i-4i

40.85

54-47

63.81

69.89

67.82

59-

49-

38.06

25-33

42-34

67.17

48.76

22.14

250 21.32
604 16.24
604 17.62

300

475
300

6293

12
12

728
1000

'332

29.10

6.4
65

l8
l6.

13
28.
20.
22.

26.41
34-37
30.08
31.96
26.15
29.10

24.44
31.89
38.45
34.06

9-7
3!-3
30.85

36.

31.42

27.44

24.92

9-25
27.25
24.18

43-19
43.26

42.

41-73
37.66

40.10

41.20

38.62

43-48

49.18

45-oi

43.60

22.6

43-27

47-15

43-07
42.15
39.80

37-37
49.80
39-7
43-65

33-.
54-

57-

53-

44-5
64.04

65.80

63.96

71
67

69
75-
65.

68,
66

71
74
72

68.

47-'
69.

69.

51-09

29-

.07

62.91

61.36

73-40
63.86
64.48

3664,
62,

60.35

59.64
61.

55-

24.

28.74
29.46

17.08

20.99
25.50
15.09
26.91

33-03
27.48

26.20

5-4
25-44
26.20

6-35
27.30
20.21

16.07
31.80
19-53
21-73

41.70
43-7 1
41.89

43- J 5
38.78
40.87

69.54
64.82

67.19

69-73

63-57

65.15

45-50
49.19

48.24

50.05

44-05

44.76

23-38
26.63

24.11

21.23

16.26

19.17

38.63
43.86
46.65
47.80

21.8
42.93

45-03
44.02

39-77
37-7 1
50.08
39-36
40-35

,1.14

i-5

49-33

47-9*
47.8.
48.41
44.2c

42.6!

54-8<
45-2;
44. 1(

17.02

24-37
29.17
25.90

29.

6.2
23-94

26.47

25-15

22.15
18.60

16.07

29-53
19.92
20.19

CLIMATOLOGY OF NEW HAMPSHIRE.

145

TAB LES,

New Hampshire by the Smithsonian Institution.

Series.

Extent.

Observing
hours.

Observer.

References.

ID
>

Begins.

Ends.

Yr.

Mo.

1843
Sept. ,'57

Jan., '28

1870
Jan., '33
Jan., '49

Mar., '68

1833

1849

1861

Feb., '67

Jan., '22

Mar., '53

1853

Nov. ,'34

1835
1843
Mar., '63
Mar., '49
Jan., '62
Jan., '45

Jan., '06

1853
Feb., '60

Feb., '06

Jan., '39
Nov., '61
Dec, '56

Aug., '55

1846
Sept. ,'56
June, '69

1844
Nov., '68

May, '70

1870
July, '43
Aug., '53
Dec, '70

1834
May, '63

1 861
Dec, '70
Sept. ,'53

May, '58

Jan., '57

Dec, '54

1854
1843
July, '64
Feb., '57
Feb., '63
Mar., '60

June, '07

i85g
Dec, '68

Sept. ,'07

July, '68
Oct., '70
May, '6g

Dec, '70

1850
Dec, '58
Dec, '70

9
22

4
2
2
6

4
20

5
2

5
7

Manuscript.

P. 0.,S.I.,Vol.I,S. 0.

f P.O..S. I., Vol. I, S.O. Am.
\ Aim., '37 and foil. ,S. Coll.

S.O.

Am. Aim., 1836, 1837, and foil.

S.Coll. '

S.O.

44-74
45.66

45.08
42.17
46.87
44.76
45.10

7m, 2a, 9a, bis

7m, 2a, 9a

7m, 2a, ga, bis

r, ia, 10a

r, gm, 3a, ga

7m, 2a, ga, bis

/ F. A. Freeman, A. Chase, S. O.

\ Mead.

( J. Farmer, Dr. Prescott, H. E.
< Sawyer, J. T. Wheeler, J. C.

(_ Knox.
E. D. Couch.
A. A. Tufts.
Leonard.
A. Colby.
Plummer.

Rev. L. W. Leonard, E. Nason.
L. Bell.
A. Brewster.
Ass't Surgeon.

f A. H. Bixby, Dr. M. N. Root,

\ Sawyer.

G. B. & H. E. Sawyer, Titcomb.

Prof. I. Young, A. A. Young.

Young.

Whalock.

R. C. Whiting, R. Smith.

R. C. Mack.

Dr. I. S. French.

S. N. Bell.

4
2

3
2

1
10

3
8

11
8
9
4

3
7

7m, 2a, ga.,bis

S.O., S.Coll.

s. 0.

45-3
46.09

45-36

46-13

40.67

42.49

41.20
46.88

48.72

7m, 2a, ga, bis
7m, 2a, ga

7m, 2a, ga

7m, 2a, 9a

r,i^a, 9 ^a

0r,i^a,9^a
r, gm, 3a, pa
7m, 2a, ga, bis
7m, 2a, ga
7m, 2a, ga, bis
r, 2a, s

7m, 2a, ga
7m, 2a 9a, bis

r, gm, 3a, pa

7m, 2a, 9a, bis

N
7m, 2a, 9a
7m, 2a, 9a, bis

s.o.

A. M. R.,1855.

P. 0.,S. I., Vol. I, S.Coll.

P. O..S. I., Vol. I, S.Coll.
f P. 0.,S. I, Vol. I, Am. Aim.,
\ 1837 and foil.
Manuscript.
Manuscript.
S.O.

P. O., S. I., Vol. I, manuscript.
S.O.

P. 0.,S. I. , Vol. I, S.Coll., S.O.
/Med. & Aqr. Reg., Boston,
X Vol. I, 1806, 1807.
P. O..S. I. , Vol. I, printed reg.
S.O.

/Med. & Aqr. Reg., Boston,
X Vol. I, 1806, 1807.
MS. in S. Coll., S.O., S.Coll.
S.O.
P. 0.,S.I.,Vol.I,S.O.

P. 0.,S. I., Vol. I, S. O.

Manuscript.

P. O., S.I. , Vol. I.

S.O.

2.8
45-8:
46.84
45-42
42.01
39-85

52-78
42.38
42.39

J. S. Hall, Noyes.
C. H. Pitman.

C. Pierce.

J. Hatch, Surg. Delaney, Chase.

E. D. Couch.

F. Odell.

fW.B. G.,B. G. &B. Brown, A.

1 Wiggin.

Dow.

N. Purmort.

L. D. Kidder.

146

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

NOTES AND ABBREVIATIONS USED IN TABLES.

b. Also called Tamworth.

c. This series is composed of observations at Great Falls, by H. E. Sawyer, and at
Salmon Falls, about two miles south-east of Great Falls, by G. B. Sawyer.

d. Observations from January, 1835, to December, 1837, probably included in pre-
ceding series.

e. This series is composed of observations at Littleton, by R. C. Whiting, and at
North Littleton, about one mile north of Littleton, by R. Smith.

f. The observing hours were r., 2a. The observations were corrected for daily
variation by means of the general table.

g. Also called Barnstead.

h. Observations corrected for daily variation by means of the general table.

9 bis. indicates that the 9 o'clock observation is used twice.

The abbreviations, used in the last column headed "References," are principally
the following :

Am. Aim. denotes the American Almanac, Boston.

P. O., S. I., Vol. I denotes the results of the meteorological observations made
under the direction of the Patent Office and the Smithsonian Institution, Washington,
1861.

S. O. denotes the manuscripts by the observers of the Smithsonian Institution.

S. Coll. denotes manuscripts collected at different times by the Institution.

Fig. 19. Mt. Moriah in Gorham.

CHAPTER VI.

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING.

By E. T. QUIMBY, a.m.,

PROFESSOR OF MATHEMATICS AND CIVIL ENGINEERING, DARTMOUTH COLLEGE.

>HE object of this paper is to explain the facts of terrestrial mag-
'f% netism, so far as they relate to the use of the magnetic needle by
the surveyor, with particular reference to the state of New Hampshire.
It will not therefore be necessary to describe the construction and use of
the instruments by means of which these facts have been observed, nor
to discuss the formulae for the reduction of the observations. Those
who wish to make a thorough examination of this subject are referred to
the works of Airy, Walker, and others, and to the reports of the United
States Coast Survey, under whose auspices extensive magnetic observa-
tions have been and are still being made in various parts of our country.
It may seem of little importance to reproduce what has been so long
known, when nothing specially new can be added ; but an examination of
the records of surveys made within the last fifty years will show that
there is need either of more general knowledge on this subject, or of a
better use of what is known. It is quite unusual to find in any of these
records the slightest reference to magnetic declination; and there is
reason to believe that surveyors sometimes rely too implicitly upon the
needle in retracing old lines by their former magnetic bearings. It will
appear by the behavior of the needle that, while it is a valuable aid, it can

I48 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

never be depended on for such purposes, and should, in all cases, be used
with caution, and only when extreme accuracy is not required.

It is well known that a bar (not magnetic) suspended from its centre of
gravity will remain in any position in which it may be placed, unless dis-
turbed by some extraneous force ; but if the bar be made of steel, and
magnetized, it will assume a definite direction, and, when disturbed, will
invariably return to the same direction when the disturbing force ceases.
This directive property of the magnet was known to the Chinese, and
probably in Europe, as early as the twelfth century; and the magnetic
needle has from that time been used to guide ships upon the seas, and
for exploring and other purposes upon the land. This needle consists of
a slender magnetized steel bar, balanced upon a pivot at a point consider-
ably above its centre of gravity, that it may retain its horizontal position ;
and, when left free to turn upon its pivot, it comes to rest, by the action
of the earth's magnetism, approximately in the plane of a meridian : hence
one end is called the north pole, and the other the south pole of the
magnet, and a vertical plane through the needle is termed the magnetic
meridian. It is not certain at what time the deviation of the magnetic
from the true meridian (called the declination of the needle) first became
known, but it is evident that it could not have been long after the
directive property itself was discovered. There is, however, no reliable
record of any experiments to determine the amount of this declination
prior to the discovery of America, although it is probable such experiments
were made. It seems likely, also, that this declination was previously
supposed to be constant, or nearly so, for all times and places, as Colum-
bus and his sailors were not a little surprised, and some of them alarmed,
on the 13th of September, 1492, to find that the needle, which at the
commencement of their voyage pointed east of north, had changed to
west of north. Since that time the interest in terrestrial magnetism,
among scientific men, has been increasing ; and observations, at first with
instruments rudely constructed, but more recently with those of extreme
delicacy, have revealed facts, a knowledge of which is important to every
one using the magnetic needle.

To make the statement of these facts plain, let us recur to our magnet-
ized bar which we supposed to be suspended from its centre of gravity.
This magnet, if left free to turn about the point of suspension in all

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 49

directions, will take a position in the magnetic meridian which (if the
observation be taken at Hanover) will deviate from the true meridian
about 11 , the north end of the magnet turning to the west of north.
Moreover, also, it will incline to the horizon, the north pole dipping down-
ward at an angle of about 75 30'. This is called the inclination or dip
of the needle. It becomes necessary, therefore, in studying the phenom-
ena of terrestrial magnetism, to make use of two instruments, one for
observations upon the declination, and the other upon the dip of the
needle. In the former, the needle hangs horizontally in a stirrup sus-
pended by a fibre of untwisted silk, which leaves it free to turn in a
horizontal plane with the least possible resistance ; while the latter, called
the dipping needle, is balanced upon a horizontal axis, and is free to turn
only in a vertical plane, and when in use must have its axis perpendicular
to the plane of the magnetic meridian. Besides the declination and dip,
we may also consider the intensity of terrestrial magnetism, by which is
meant the amount of that force which restores the needle, when dis-
turbed, to its normal direction. This element is of so little practical
importance in the ordinary use of the needle, that it may be passed
briefly.

Intensity of Terrestrial Magnetism. If a magnetic needle, suspended,
as mentioned above, by a fibre of silk, be drawn out of the magnetic
meridian by bringing near it another magnet, and then allowed to return
by removing the second magnet to a distance, it will oscillate for a time
before the resistance of the air and of the suspending fibre will bring it
to rest. If the weight and dimensions of the needle are accurately known,
and the number of oscillations it makes in a given time be observed, it is
easy to compute the intensity of the force which actuates it, the more
rapid oscillation indicating the greater force. This, however, will not
represent the total force of the earth's magnetism, but only that part of it
which tends to bring the needle into the plane of the magnetic meridian,
and which is called the horizontal intensity, or the horizontal component
of the magnetic force. The vertical component tends to draw the north
end of the needle downward (in the Northern hemisphere), causing the dip.
The actual direction of the force of terrestrial magnetism at any place is
the same as that of a magnetic needle suspended from its centre of
gravity, and free to move in all directions, or of the dipping-needle when
vol. 1. 20

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 5 T

placed in the plane of the magnetic meridian. As we go towards the
south, the vertical component of this force diminishes, and the horizontal
component increases, as will be seen by the United States Coast Survey
chart (p. 6) showing lines of equal horizontal intensity, and, also, of
equal dip. Neither does the magnetic intensity remain the same for the
same place. Observations made at Washington, D. C, by the United
States Coast Survey, show that the total force at that place has heretofore
been slightly increasing, while at the present time it is nearly stationary,
or, perhaps, beginning to decrease. Like the other magnetic elements,
the intensity has its secular period of change, but the data are not at
present sufficient to determine that period; and even if it were known, it
would be of no practical importance to the surveyor.

Magnetic Dip. When the dipping-needle is placed in the plane of the
magnetic meridian, that is, with its axis at right angles to this plane,
the north end is drawn downwards, making, at Hanover, an angle with
the horizon of about 75 30'. If, now, we carry this needle to the south,
we find the dip diminishing, until, near the equator, we reach a place where
it is zero. We may then trace a line, approximately east and west, upon
which there is no dip. North of this line the north end of the needle
will dip, and south of it, the south end. On each side of the line of no
dip, we may trace lines of equal dip called isoclinic lines. These lines
are shown, so far as they have been determined for the United States,
on the chart previously referred to (p. 6). Going northward, the dip
increases, till, at a magnetic pole, the needle takes a vertical position.

The magnetic clip, like the intensity, is slowly changing, as continued
observations upon the dipping-needle show. Previous to 1854, it was
increasing in the United States, and since that date it has diminished
about 30'.

The use of the magnetic needle in surveying does not require special
attention to the dip. It is only necessary to place upon one end of the
needle a suitable counterpoise to keep it in a horizontal position, since,
when balanced before being magnetized, it will always require such a
counterpoise after it is magnetized, unless used upon the line of no dip ;
and, when balanced for one latitude, it will need readjusting if taken to a
different latitude. When the needle is once properly balanced for any
place, the surveyor need give no further attention to the dip.

152

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 53

Magnetic Declination. As an instrument for the determination of the
true bearings of lines, it is evident that the magnetic needle can be of
little value except as we are able to determine accurately its declination,
or the angle it makes with the true meridian. It is true that, when only
a comparison of directions is required, as in the survey of a field to deter-
mine its figure and area, it is of no consequence what the declination is,
provided it remains the same during the progress of the survey and for
all points where the needle is used ; but even then, to make the survey
useful in retracing the same lines at a future time, the declination should
be known and recorded.

By observations upon the needle of a well constructed magnetometer,
the following facts relating to the declination will appear, some of which
will be indicated even by the ordinary compass needle.

1. The declination is not the same in all places.

2. For a given place it is subject to a secular change of unknown
period, but requiring at least several hundred years for its completion.

3. It has a diurnal change, with a maximum and minimum for each
day.

4. It has also an annual maximum and minimum, changing with the
seasons of the year.

5. It is subject to irregular disturbances, being more or less affected by
every meteorological change.

Discussing these in their order, we consider,

1. The declination in different places. This is well shown by the chart
of the world (p. 8) upon which lines of equal declination, called isogonic
lines, are drawn. By reference to this chart it will be seen that, on this
continent, a line of no declination passes in a north-westerly and south-
easterly direction near Cleveland, O., and Raleigh, N. C. At all places
east of this line, the declination is westerly, that is, the north end of the
needle points to the west of north ; and west of the line the declination
is easterly. The map of New Hampshire and Vermont, herewith given,
shows the isogonic lines for these states, as delineated by the United
States Coast Survey. By observing the situation of a place with
reference to these lines, the declination for that place may be approxi-
mately determined ; but while they may be considered mainly correct for
this date (January, 1874), no surveyor should rely upon them for the
vol. 1. 21

154 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

declination of a place, when it is possible to determine that declination
by a direct observation upon the true meridian.

By the general direction of these lines in New England, it appears
that, by moving north-westerly or south-easterly, but little change will
be noted in the declination; but in going north or north-east it will
increase, and diminish in going south or south-west. The following
declinations were observed by Dr. T. C. Hilgard, for the United States
Coast Survey, in 1 873 :

Station.

Date.

Declination

Gorham,

Sept. 8-1 r,

12 42'

Littleton,

Sept. 22-25,

13 Art

Hanover,

Oct. 2-6,

io 47'*

Hanover,

Oct. 8-1 r,

io 50'*

Burlington, Vt.,

Oct. 12-15,

11 22'

Rutland, Vt.,

Oct. 17,18,

10 40'

By observations made by Rev. C. A. Downs, of Lebanon, the declina-
tion at that place is 1 1 30'.

The following declinations are copied from previous observations by
the United States Coast Survey:

Station.

Date.

Declination.

Burlington, Vt.,

1855 Aug. 28,

957'-i

Mt. Agamenticus, Me.,

1847 Sept. 23-Oct. 2,

io 09'. 8

Mt. Patuccawa,

1849 Aug. 15-19,

io 42'. 8

Mt. Uncanoonuc,

1848 Oct. 6-8,

9 04'. 1

Isle of Shoals,

1847 Aug. 12-19,

io 03'. 5

Plum Island, Mass.,

1850 Sept. 18-20,

ioo5 / .6

2. Secular Variation of the Declination. The line of no declination
and the other isogonic lines are not fixed in position, but are slowly mov-
ing. This motion, in the United States, is at the present time for the
most part toward the south-west. In 1801 the line of no declination
passed nearly through Annapolis, Md., crossing Lake Erie about forty
miles from Buffalo. In 1850 it had gone to the west upon our coast as far
as Beaufort, N. C, and, passing west of Pittsburgh, Penn., crossed Lake
Erie near its centre. In 1870 it passed very nearly through the cities of
Raleigh, N. C, and Cleveland, O. At the present time, the declination is
more than 3 upon the line where, in 1801, it was o. The influence
which causes this change in declination is passing over this continent
from north-east to south-west, as will be seen by the following extract
from a report on secular changes in declination, &c, by C. A. Schott,

* Probably too small on account of local attraction.

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 55

assistant in charge of the computing division, United States Coast Survey
office, Washington, D. C. :

The influence which produced the increase of magnetic west declination on our
Atlantic coast was first recognized in the north-east, extending itself in time toward
the south-west. The minimum west declination occurred at Portland, Me., about 1765 ;
at Cambridge, Mass., about 1783 ; at New York, about 1795 ; at Savannah, Ga., about
1817-; at New Orleans. La., about 1831 ; and at the city of Mexico about 1838, appear-
ing at the last three places as a maximum east declination. The same influence will
possibly soon reach our Pacific coast, where at present the east declination is still
slowly on the increase. Sub-periods or subordinate waves in the secular change have
been recognized in the observed declinations at Cambridge, Mass., at Hatboro', Penn.
(near Philadelphia) , and at other places ; and they are also noted in the observed dips
at Washington, and Toronto, Canada.

Taking this view of the subject, the phenomenon of the secular change is a complex
one ; and the numerical formulae designed for expressing it must, for the present,
retain their tentative and hence provisional character; and they should not be used
(either way) much beyond the time for which they are supported by observations.

The declination at Hanover in 1840 was 9 20' west, and the annual
increase at that time 5 ' .2. But the whole change since then is only 2,
being an average of 3 '.5 per annum ; and recent observations show that
the annual increase during the last decade has been less than 3'. The
present rate of change will not be accurately known until the observa-
tions made in September, 1873, shall be repeated. It is probably not
more than 2' or 2^.5 per annum, which indicates a probability that the
westerly declination will reach a maximum here about the close of the
present century. If this estimate should prove correct, and the period
of decrease should be as long as that of increase, the time required for
the declination to pass from a minimum to a maximum and to return to
the minimum, will be about two hundred and forty or two hundred and
fifty years. We have not, however, at present, sufficient data to deter-
mine this period with accuracy, nor are the causes which produce the
change well known.

The amount of the secular variation is very different in different parts
of the earth. At the Cape of Good Hope, in two hundred and forty-six
years, ending 1850, the declination had changed from 30' east to 29 i8'.8
west, and was at that date slightly increasing. This shows a longer
period and much greater change than in the United States. In New

156 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

England the whole change is probably between 6 and 8. The following

declinations, copied from the United States Coast Survey Report for

185 5, were observed at Cambridge, Mass., and show the change at that

place since 1708:

1708 9 oc/ west. 1782 6 45' west. 1840 9 18' west.

1742 8 00' west. 1783 6 52' west. 1842 9 34'. 9 west.

1757 7 20' west. 1788 6 38' west. 1844 9 39' west.

1761 7 14' west. 1810 7 30' west. 1852 io c 08' west.

1763 7 oo' west. 1835 8 5 1 ' west. 1854 io 39' west.

1780 7 02' west. 1837 9 09' west. 1855 io 54' west.

From these facts will appear the importance of recording, with the
minutes of every survey, the declination of the needle at the time and
place. To do this the surveyor must know the declination, which he
cannot do without some trouble and labor. He must frequently try his
compass by some well established meridian, which, if he cannot find
already determined, he must locate for himself. Neither should he lose
any opportunity to take the bearing of any old line whose former bearing-
he may find in the record of some previous, perhaps the original, survey.
By continuing such observations, he will learn not only the amount of
the declination at the time of the former survey, but, also, its rate of
change, and the whole change that has occurred since the running of the
old lines with which he has compared his needle ; and he will thus gain
information which will render his services invaluable in disputes relating
to division lines.

3. Diurnal cliange in the Declination. If hourly observations be made
upon the delicately suspended needle of a magnetometer, or, still better,
if we use a self-registering instrument by which a continuous record is
made of the changes in the direction of the needle, we shall notice a
diurnal variation of the declination, in northern latitudes, substantially
as follows : During the night the needle will be comparatively quiet ; but
at dawn of day the north end will move toward the east, and will
continue this decrease of declination till about 8 o'clock a. m., when it
will commence a westerly motion, and will come to its maximum west
declination at about 2 o'clock p. m. It will then return toward the east
until some hours after sunset, when it will again remain quiet till the next
dawn. But while this is in general true, it must be taken with much
allowance. In the first place, it must not be understood that the needle
is stationary even at night, for it seldom, if ever, fails to show more or

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 57

less change every hour of the twenty-four ; but, ordinarily, the change is
much less during the night than in the day-time. The extent of this
variation is not the same in all places, nor on different days in the same
place. It is greater in summer than in winter, and on clear clays than in
cloudy weather. At Hanover it is about 15' in winter, and perhaps 2c/
in summer. The morning deviation eastward from the direction during
the night is usually about one third of the whole variation, or one half of
the westward deviation from the same direction at 2 o'clock p. m. We
give herewith a few curves showing the diurnal variation at Hanover, in
January, 1872, from which a better idea can be obtained than from any
verbal explanation. Of these curves we shall see that no two are pre-
cisely alike; and, if we should examine the curves for each day of the
year, we should find the same variety that is observed in the weather of
different days. In these diagrams, each curve has upon it the date at
which it was observed. The vertical divisions indicate minutes of arc,
and are numbered for Jan. 1 on the left hand, for Jan. 2 on the right, and
so on, alternating for each day. Thus, while the zero line of each curve
represents the same direction of the needle, a different line in each case
is used for zero, to prevent confusion by the curves intersecting and
blending together. A tendency of the curve upward indicates motion of
the north end of the needle eastward, or decrease of declination, and
downward indicates increase of declination. To determine, therefore,
the relative pointings of the needle at the same time on any two of these
days, compare each with its own zero. For example, at 2 o'clock p. m., on
Jan. 1, the pointing was 6'. 5 ; Jan. 2, it was 6' ; Jan. 3, 2' '; Jan. 5,
2'.4 ; Jan. 6, 2^.5, &c. January 9, it will be observed, was a day of con-
siderable disturbance, and, at 2 p. m., the pointing was +7'. 3, being from
10' to 14' farther east than on previous days; and the average pointing
on that clay and for several succeeding clays was about io' or 12' east-
ward of the usual direction of the needle. Of this we shall say more in
speaking of magnetic storms.

4. The annual variation of tJie Declination. Besides the changes in
declination already mentioned, there is an annual variation produced by
the changing seasons of the year. This is perhaps so small as to be of
little practical importance in the ordinary use of the needle, but it should
not be omitted in a full discussion of the subject. Observations have

$Biumml Wtrrfeiton vf ifae jfiagrntii? Jit**!*, $J

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H AMOVE R, N. HJ, C JAKyART, ICTZ.

Zoeal Jbfetzn Time JEIotirs.

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THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 59

not been sufficiently multiplied to enable us to state with certainty the
extent and manner of this variation for New England. Cassini began
daily observations in Paris, in 1783, by which, in 1786, he was able to
announce the discovery of this annual variation. By his observations it
appeared that the westerly declination increased from June 20 to March
20, and from March 20 to June 20, decreased by about one third "of the
increase from June to March. Subsequent observations in other places
do not fully confirm the results obtained by Cassini. It is more probable
that there are two periods of retrogression, one between the vernal
equinox and summer solstice, and the other between the autumnal equi-
nox and winter solstice. This seems to be indicated by the observations
of Gilpin, about the beginning of the present century, in England. But
it is not necessary for our present purpose to pursue this part of the
subject further, as this variation in New England is too small to require
notice in the use of the needle, being probably less than one minute.

5. Magnetic Storms. Those irregular and occasional disturbances in
terrestrial magnetism called magnetic storms, are generally attended by
an aurora, and no doubt are one effect of the same cause which produces
the aurora. They occur by day as well as by night, and therefore are
not always accompanied by a visible aurora. Their duration and the
amount of disturbance they produce are as varied as the features of our
rain-storms. During a magnetic storm the needle is observed to be
unsteady and tremulous, changing its direction, now this way and now
that, to an extent dependent on the magnitude of the storm. Slight
disturbances of this kind, affecting the direction of the needle by a few
minutes, are not uncommon. The diurnal curve for January 9, 1872,
shows such a disturbance. This disturbance continued through the
night, beyond the limits of this diagram ; and, as before stated, for
several days after, the average pointing of the needle was some 10'
farther east than usual. There were also many other days of unusual
disturbance during this month ; and on the 4th of the following month a
most remarkable storm was observed by the writer and his assistants at
the Dartmouth College observatory. The day was cold and windy, the
weather clearing after a heavy fall of snow. In the evening appeared
that most remarkable aurora, covering the whole heavens south as well
as north, which many will remember, and which was seen in Europe as

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THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. l6l

well as on this continent. The assistant in charge of the magnetometer
noticed early in the forenoon of this day an unusual disturbance of the
needle, and was thoughtful enough to make his observations every few
minutes, and sometimes, at the height of the storm, every half minute,
instead of the usual hourly observations. The annexed diagram shows
this storm between n h 53 a. m., and 12 11 53 p. m. The vertical lines
denote minutes of mean solar time, and the horizontal spaces are each 5'
of arc. To compare the disturbance during this hour with the usual
diurnal variation, as represented on page 14, it must be noted that if the
former were represented on the same scale as the latter, it would appear
to be nearly twenty-five times greater than here shown. The figures
at the right and left margin are reckoned from a zero below the limits of
this diagram, and which was the normal pointing when the needle was
undisturbed. It will be noticed that, at n h 53 a. m., the north end of
the needle had moved eastward of its normal position 2 05'. This
movement commenced about 10 o'clock, and went on with some irregu-
larity up to the time when our diagram commences. From this time the
eastward movement was more rapid, particularly after 1 2 m., from 1 2 h to
1 2 h oi n \ increasing i 25'. At I2 h 07 111 the greatest eastward deviation
was reached, which was 5 25' east of the normal pointing. After this
the westward motion was quite rapid, with considerable disturbance, how-
ever, and with two very marked and sudden fluctuations to the east, in
which it reached, within 30', its maximum deviation. The most violent
disturbances of this storm occurred within the hour here represented.
After I2 h 53 m p. m., the needle became gradually more quiet, and by 3
p. m. had returned nearly or quite to its usual position. In the evening,
during the remarkable display of aurora, though somewhat disturbed,
the fluctuations were by no means so great as during the day. We can-
not, of course, positively affirm that this aurora was not present during
the day, but it seems more than probable that the needle is more affected
by the approach than by the presence of an aurora, particularly of one
like this, extending over the whole heavens. It would of course be
impossible to use the needle in surveying at such a time, as by the sudden
changes in the direction of the magnetic force it would be kept constantly
oscillating. It must not be understood that during this hour the nee-
dle moved steadily back and forth as shown in the diagram, but it was
vol. 1. 23

1 62 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

swinging sometimes 4 or 5 , and the pointings here indicated are the
means of the two extremes of oscillation.

The Construction and Use of the Magnetic Needle. From the foregoing
it will be easy to deduce the value of the magnetic needle in determining
directions, and the precautions necessary in the use of it. In the first
place, the greatest care must be exercised in the construction of the
needle and its accompaniments. The most important points of construc-
tion are these :

1. The magnetic axis of the needle should coincide with a line joining
its extreme points, otherwise it will fail to indicate the true magnetic
meridian. This would be of little consequence in using a single needle,
but, in comparing the work of different needles, as must frequently be
done, it becomes important. The magnetic axis of a needle may be
determined by suspending it in a stirrup by an untwisted fibre of silk
first one side up and then the other and observing the pointings in each
position. This test should be applied by the maker of the needle, and
the magnetic axis be made to coincide with the axis of the needle.

2. The suspension of the needle should be such as to reduce friction to a
minimum. Since that component of the magnetic force, which tends to
bring the needle to the magnetic meridian, diminishes as the sine of the
angle the needle makes with that meridian, it will require but little friction
to cause it to stop so far out of the meridian as to introduce an apprecia-
ble error into the results. The best compass needles are poised upon a
fine needle point, in an agate or other jewelled socket ; but with such a
needle no less care is requisite to keep it than to make it right. The
more delicate the point, the more liable it is to injury, and it can be kept
in proper condition only by raising the needle from it when the compass is
moved, and letting it down carefully when to be used. The arrangement
for raising the needle should be a screw and not a cam, as the latter is liable
to work loose in transportation, and allow the needle to fall upon the point.

3. The compass-box and tripod should be free from everytJiing magnetic.
Not only should no iron be used in their construction, but the brass for
the compass-box and tripod-head should be tested to determine whether
it has any power of attracting the needle. In two instances known to
the writer, the brass of a compass-box has become so magnetic as to
destroy the value of the instrument. It is easy to determine whether such

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 63

is the case, by directing the sights to various objects in different direc-
tions, reversing on each, and noting whether the needle gives a different
reading by any of the reversals. If the reading is not changed by re-
versing in any of the positions, the box may be considered free from
magnetic power.

4. The pivot should be exactly in the centre of the graduated circle, that
the two ends of the needle may give the same reading. It is true this
error may be eliminated by reading both ends, and taking the mean ; but
it is better to have no error to eliminate. If, however, the two ends do
not read alike, the mean reading should be used.

5. In using the compass, proximity to all magnetic substances, both
natural and artificial, must be avoided. Masses of iron, like gas- or
water-pipes, water-conductors, and lightning-rods, are a source of disturb-
ance not easily avoided in cities ; and the water-conductors and lightning-
rods being placed vertically are more disturbing than larger masses lying
horizontally. The reason of this is that, having their longer axis more
nearly in the direction of the force of terrestrial magnetism, they become
magnetic by induction, and act not merely as so much iron, but as mag-
nets. They must therefore be given a wide berth by the surveyor with
the magnetic needle. In making observations with the magnetometer, it
is thought necessary to remove from such objects to a distance at least
equal to twice their height ; but it is probable that no perceptible influ-
ence upon an ordinary needle would be observed at half that distance.

Besides these larger masses of iron, the surveyor sometimes carries upon
his person the cause of much error. Ordinary knives, if not brought
nearer to the needle than two or three feet, will have no appreciable
effect, but magnetized knives should be kept at a greater distance; and
the chain-men should not be allowed to bring the chain within less than
twenty feet of the instrument. There is another source of disturbance,
carried by the surveyor himself, which frequently he does not suspect. It
is the common buttons, with an iron body, used upon coats. In reading
the bearing, these are likely to be brought near to the needle, and to pro-
duce considerable deviation. Such buttons ought not to be worn in
working with a compass.

Still more difficult is it to avoid local attraction by magnetic rocks,
which are more common than is generally supposed. Indeed, so common

164 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

is this, source of error, that in every case the bearing of a line should be
taken at two places at least, and these should be as far apart as possible.
If the two bearings agree, it may be safely concluded that they are cor-
rect, and not affected by local attraction. Yet it must not be forgotten
that it is possible, though highly improbable, that two bearings thus taken
should be equally affected. If the line is very short, or if no two points
on it can be found at which the bearings agree, a point may be taken out
of the line in any direction, and at a suitable distance ; and, if the direct
and reverse bearings from it to any point of the line be found to agree,
those points may be considered free from local attraction. In some
places, as in the vicinity of iron mines, it will be found impracticable to
use the needle at all for the determination of bearings ; but even in this
case, the figure and area of a field may be found by so placing the com-
pass at each angle as to take the bearings of the two adjacent sides from
the same point. This will give the angle between these sides without
error from local attraction.

The most difficult problem ever presented to the surveyor is that which
asks him to retrace a lost line, with but one point known, and the bearing
from some old deed. To add to his perplexity, the parties in interest are
usually too much excited by the apprehension of being robbed of a square
rod of rocky pasture, or of swamp rich in mud and brakes, to be able to
give correctly such facts as might be serviceable in the solution of the
problem. In such case, if the parties cannot be induced to agree upon a
second bound and thus determine the line, there is no way but to "run
by the needle" after making due allowance for change in declination since
the previous survey. Running in this way may lead to the discovery of
some old landmark, nearly obliterated, and thus settle the dispute ; but if
not, though the error in the bearing is likely to be 15' to 30', it is better
than a lawsuit ; and if, in such case, the parties in their ignorance believe
that to be "true as the needle to the pole" is to be true enough it is
certainly an occasion where " 't is folly to be wise."

Determination of a true meridian. That the surveyor may be able to
test his compass by some well established meridian, it would be an
economical measure if the state should locate and permanently mark a
true meridian in one or more of the principal towns of each county,
and then require by law all surveyors to record the declination with the

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 65

plan or report of every survey, stating at what time and by which of
these meridians the declination was taken.

In the absence of such meridians located at the public expense, the
surveyor may, with little trouble, determine one for himself. The remain-
der of this paper will be devoted to an explanation of some of the
methods by which the astronomical meridian of a place may be found.

1. By observations upon the pole star (Polaris). This star has now
(Jan. 1, 1874) a polar distance of i 21' 45", with an annual diminution
of 19", and it may be observed either at its culmination or elongation, or
at any other known time. The time selected for the observation must
depend on the circumstances of the observer. If he has not the means
of determining his local time within fifteen seconds, he must take the star
at its elongation ; but if he can know the time, he may observe whenever
it is most convenient to himself. The culminations offer the advantage
of giving the meridian at once, without computation or correction for
azimuth ; but neither at the culmination nor at the elongation can double
observations be taken to eliminate any error in the adjustment of instru-
ments, and if the single observation be missed at the moment, it cannot
be repeated till the next night. It may therefore be more convenient to ob-
serve without reference to these ; but in that case the local time must be
known, the azimuth of the star computed, and the proper correction applied.

These observations may be made with a theodolite or transit, or, for
want of these, we may use simply a plumb-line, with a compass-sight, or
anything with a small hole in it to look through. Any heavy body sus-
pended by a string will serve for a plumb, and it may be suspended in
water to give it greater stability. It should not, however, even then be
used in any considerable wind, as this will cause it to deviate from a
vertical. South of the plumb-line, and at a convenient distance, fix a
board firmly in a horizontal position, upon which a small piece of board,
with a compass-sight affixed, may be moved east and west. Bring this in
line with the star and plumb-line, and follow the star until the time of
culmination, then fasten the compass-sight, and the meridian is secured.
Or, if the time of an elongation be selected for the observation, bring the
compass-sight into line a little before the time, and follow the star till it
begins its return. This line, with the proper correction for azimuth, will
be the true meridian. So, also, if the observation be made at any time

1 66 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

(the time being noted), and the proper correction applied, the true
meridian will be determined.

If a transit or theodolite is used, it must be carefully adjusted, or the
results will be less reliable than by the simple plumb-line, as above. The
adjustments liable to affect the work are the collimation, and the height
of Y's or horizontality of the axis of the telescope. By making two
observations, one with the telescope reversed, and using the mean
result, any error which would otherwise occur by defect in these adjust-
ments is eliminated ; but in this case both observations cannot be taken at
the moment of culmination : hence, for one, at least, the azimuth must be
computed. If neither is taken at the culmination, separate azimuths must
be computed for each.

Unless an instrument with a perforated axis for illumination of spider
lines is used, some easily managed means must be contrived for this
illumination. If a steady light cannot be thrown upon the lines in such
way that it may be increased or diminished at pleasure, it is not easy to
see both the star and lines with that distinctness necessary to a good
observation. With the perforated axis there is little difficulty in securing
the right amount of light ; but without this, the light must be thrown
into the object end of the telescope. This can be clone successfully by
using a stand to carry a bull's-eye lantern, and a vertical piece of board
covered with white paper to serve as a reflector, the diffused, reflected
light being much better than the direct rays of the lantern ; or, a ring of
thin white paper, of suitable size to cover the outer edge of the object glass,
leaving the centre open, may be made to adhere to the glass by simple
wetting, which will serve to reflect and diffuse the light thrown upon it.

To mark the meridian after the observation, a piece of board with a
small hole, behind which a light is placed, will serve as a temporary
arrangement. This need not be placed precisely in line of the meridian,
but being fastened, before observing, at some point near this line, the
angle between it and the star may be taken, and the work of fixing and
permanently marking the meridian be deferred to any convenient time.
When the final marking is done, it should be such that neither frost nor
any other natural causes will disturb it.

2. A meridian may be established by observations upon the sun ; but,
while they offer the advantage of the day-time for doing the work, they

THE USE OF THE MAGNETIC NEEDLE IN SURVEYING. 1 67

are not, on the whole, so convenient as the use of the pole star. One
objection to them is, that, as the centre ot so large a body cannot be
accurately observed, it is necessary to observe the limb or edge ; and thus
a computation is necessary to reduce to the centre, or a second observa-
tion must be made on the opposite limb to eliminate the error. Hence,
in no way can a meridian be directly found by solar observations without
computation and correction for azimuth, except by the rough and unreli-
able method of guessing at the sun's centre when on the meridian. These
observations require, also, the use of a telescope with a darkened glass,
which is not always at hand. The most convenient way of locating a
meridian by the sun is to take its altitude in the morning or evening,
when the altitude is rapidly changing, and measuring the angle between
it and some fixed mark. The azimuth of the sun may be computed by
data found in the nautical almanac, whence the azimuth of the mark
becomes known, and the meridian is determined. By this method,
double observations must be made to eliminate the error of taking the
limb instead of the centre, and, also, by reversing the telescope, to
eliminate error in collimation and height of Y's, and in the position of
the zero of the vertical circle. In one observation, bring the sun into one
angle of the spider lines and tangent to each ; then read the horizontal
and vertical circles ; point to the mark, and read the horizontal circle ;
reverse the telescope, and take the sun in the same manner as before,
but in the opposite angle, that is, upon the opposite side of both lines ;
read the circles again, and observe the mark as before. It would make
the work still more sure to take a second set in the other angles of the
lines, but this is not essential. The mean azimuth of the mark, as obtained
by the different observations, will be its true angle with the meridian.

If the local time is known and noted with each observation, the azimuth
of the sun may be computed without observing its altitude ; but it is
easier to observe the altitude than to find the time. To take the sun,
when on the meridian, will also require the time with a correction for the
difference between apparent and mean time. Much better than these
solar methods, will be found the following :

3. By observations upon any one of the stars. Select some bright star,
as Sirius or the planet Jupiter, that, if possible, the spider lines may be
seen without artificial illumination. If this can be done, it will save the

1 68 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

trouble of adjusting a light for this purpose. With a theodolite having
a vertical circle, which has been previously adjusted with care and firmly
set (as in all these observations the instrument should be), take the star
at least three hours before its culmination, recording its altitude and the
angle it makes with the mark ; reverse the telescope, and observe in the
same way again. Note, also, the time of each observation with sufficient
accuracy to be ready for the star at the same altitude after culmination.
Before the star descends to this altitude, set the vertical circle to that
altitude, with the telescope in the same position (direct or reverse) as
when the observation at the same altitude was made before culmination,
and, as soon as it can be done, bring the star into the field by turning
only the horizontal circle ; put the vertical line upon the star, and follow
it till it comes to the intersection; read both circles, and observe the
mark ; reverse the telescope, set to the other altitude, and observe the
star, and mark again in the same manner. Find the mean angle between
the star and mark by the first set of observations taken before culmina-
tion, and, also, by those taken after ; and the half difference of these two
angles will be the angle between the mark and meridian. By this method
of equal altitudes, all trouble of finding the exact local time, and of
computations, is avoided.

It remains only to give the formulae for computing the azimuth of the
pole star, i. When taken at its elongation ; and, 2. When taken at any
other time.

1. Let p = the polar distance of the star.

/ =z the latitude of the observer.

z = the required azimuth.

Then we have

sin#

sin,? = ~^^

sin/

when taken at the elongation.

2. Using the same notation as above, with the addition of t = the
time since the last culmination reduced to degrees, &c, of arc, we have

cos (/ -)- k) cot t

cot z = r y ,

sin k

in which

tan k = tan / cos/,

when the observation is not at the elongation.

Note. Inasmuch as this chapter explains satisfactorily the proper way of using the magnetic needle, I take
occasion here to say that all the courses mentioned subsequently in this report may be understood as referring
to the true meridian. They were taken with pocket compasses originally, and have been corrected according
to the principles stated so lucidly by Prof. Quimby. C. H. H.

CHAPTER VII.

TOPOGRAPHY.

.HE general shape of the territory of New Hampshire is that of a
scalene, almost a right-angled triangle, having the perpendicular
one hundred and eighty, and the base seventy-five miles long. From the
crown monument, at the extreme north point, to the south-east corner of
Pelham, at the most southern extension, the distance is one hundred and
eighty miles, the length of the perpendicular. The longest distance
that can be measured in the state is from the crown monument to the
south-west corner, a distance of one hundred and ninety miles, and this
line would be the hypothenuse of the triangle. The greatest width of
the state is from Chesterfield to the outer island of the Isles of Shoals, a
distance of one hundred miles. To the outermost projection of Rye
from Chesterfield, the distance is seven miles less. At Colebrook, the
width of the state is only twenty miles.

New Hampshire is bounded north by the province of Quebec, east by
the state of Maine, south-east by the Atlantic ocean and Essex county,
Mass., south by the state of Massachusetts, west and north-west chiefly
by the state of Vermont, and partially by Quebec. It lies between
yo 2,7' and 72 37' longitude west from Greenwich, and between 42 40'
and 45 18' 23" north latitude.

The books usually give the area of the state as 9,280 square miles.
Mr. Warren Upham carefully measured the area of the state upon J. R.
vol. 1. 24

I70 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Dodge's map, published in 1854, and finds it to be very nearly 8,818
square miles, although the explanations in the margin state the figure to
be 9,280. The scale given on this map is evidently incorrect, perhaps on
account of the usual want of correspondence between an original draft and
the printed sheet. Hence I have had the area carefully measured upon
the original draft of our new map, or the one which appears in the
accompanying atlas, and find it to be 9,336 square miles.*"

Our territory possesses a mountainous character, much more so than
the average among the states along the Atlantic slope of the continent.
It is situated about a third of the way from the north-eastern end of the
Atlantic system to the south-western extremity of the chain. Viewed
as a whole, there are two culminating points in this system. The land
rises gradually from the ocean level in the Gulf St. Lawrence till the
apex of the White Mountains is reached. Then it falls to the Hudson
river, reaching the ocean level along that valley. From this line it
ascends to the mountains in western North Carolina, whence the land
descends to the Gulf of Mexico.

More particularly, there is a mountainous ridge following the eastern
rim of the Connecticut river basin entirely through the state. On the
east the country is low, scarcely rising above five hundred feet for three
fourths of the area outside of the foot hills of the White Mountains.
These mountains occupy nearly all the space east of the western ridge to
the Maine line, for a distance north and south of about thirty-three miles.
This district is mostly wooded, very mountainous, and scarcely inhabited.
Deep transverse valleys divide the White Mountains proper from a simi-
lar triangular area between the Androscoggin and Connecticut rivers.
There is a third mountainous district half way through Coos county, and
the fourth and last along the extreme northern boundary. On the other

* The calculations were made by Mr. T. B. Mann, of Boston. There are two or three points in connection with
the calculation that need to be mentioned. The proper west line of New Hampshire is the west side of Con-
necticut river. At the mouth of the Passumpsic, where the Connecticut has three channels, the calculation has
omitted the narrow channel, and a large island next to the Vermont side. In Portsmouth harbor, no islands
outside of Newcastle are included. The centre of Salmon Falls river and the ponds between Wakefield and
Portsmouth harbor was regarded as the east line of the state. At Seabrook and Rye, the measurement includes
the bays at the mouths of rivers, running from headland to headland. The Isles of Shoals are not included,
which do not seem to cover more than one square mile. If to this figure we add a square mile for the neglected
channel in Monroe, and 54 miles for the belt of three miles of ocean over which our authorities exercise jurisdic-
tion, the total area may be stated at 9,392 square miles.

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TOPOGRAPHY. I J I

side of the Connecticut there is a similar elevated country, constituting
the sparsely settled district of Essex county, Vt. In mineral features
this is like the White Mountains, and should properly belong to New-
Hampshire, if the boundary line between us and Vermont were at all sym-
metrical. As it is topographically connected with our state, I shall take
occasion to refer to it often, and to describe it, so far as may be practica-
ble, considering its extra-limital position, and the scantiness of our
information concerning it. Our survey has done something towards its
exploration, though by no means so fully as is desirable.

The area of our field of exploration may be divided into six districts,
each of which will be described in detail. They are the topographical
divisions that suggest themselves most naturally.

i. HydrograpJiic basin of the Connecticut river, leaving the main valley
at Barnet, and continuing up the Passumpsic to its source.

2. Hilly district of the principal portions of Cods county, N. H., and
Essex county, Vt.

3. White Mountain area.

4. Winnipiseogee Lake basin.

5. Merrimack River basin, wedging into the White Mountain area.

6. The Atlantic slope in Strafford and Rockingham C02tuties.

These districts present themselves forcibly to the eye upon the accom-
panying map.

Before describing these topographical areas, it will be well to under-
stand what are the artificial boundaries of New Hampshire.

The Northern Boundary.

The northern boundary of the state has been more carefully measured
than any other, having been surveyed under orders from the United
States government, for the purpose of marking the line of division
between New Hampshire and Canada, in accordance with the treaty of
Washington bearing date of August 9, 1842. It is needless here to
state the particulars of the controversy which led the commissioners to
fix upon the present as the proper boundary line. The two countries
were much excited previous to the decision, so much so as to talk of
settling the dispute by fighting. An elegant series of maps, upon the
scale of one mile to two inches, of the country from the head of the

172 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

St. Croix river in Maine to St. Regis on the St. Lawrence river, may be
found in the state library at Concord, which was prepared from very
elaborate surveys after instructions from Major J. D. Graham, of the
United States topographical engineers, principal astronomer, who acted
under the direction of congress. Two stations along the New Hamp-
shire boundary were determined astronomically by Major Graham. One
of these is situated at the extreme east point of Vermont, on the west
side of Hall's stream, having the latitude of 45 o' ij" .58, and the
longitude west from Greenwich of 71 30' 34" .5. The other is about
half a mile N. io W. from Lake Sophy, or Third Connecticut lake,
having the latitude of 45 14' 58" .06, and the longitude west of
Greenwich of 71 12' 57". Distances and bearings were measured care-
fully by chaining and triangulation. The trigonometrical work seems to
have been performed under the guidance of different engineers, all east
of Mt. Prospect, an azimuth station about half a mile north-west from
the small Fourth lake, having been under the direction of Lieuts.
Emory and Raynolds, of the U. S. topographical engineers, while that
on the west was surveyed by A. W. and S. Longfellow, civil engineers.
In brief, the line may be described as following the water-shed between
the St. Francis and Connecticut rivers, from a point at the junction of
Maine, New Hampshire, and Quebec province, to the head of the main
Hall's stream ; thence down Hall's stream to the first named astronomi-
cal station of Major Graham. It is hence often styled the "highland
boundary."

More particularly, the boundary may be thus described : The point to
which the three territories converge is known as "Crown monument," or
No. 474, from the first at the head of the St. Croix river, and appears to
be in latitude 45 18' 23" .33 ; longitude 71 5' 40" .5. This is on high
land, and the country descends to the next post, or No. 475. Monuments
are located at most of the prominent elevations and depressions, as the
line is traced westward. Monuments 474 to 477 lie along the head waters
of the Magalloway {Margalloway, as spelled by the commissioners and
Carrigain's map). No. 478 seems to be situated upon rising ground not
specially connected with either stream ; but from No. 478 to No. 484, we
travel along the little streams discharging into the valley of Lake Sophy.
The whole of the Perry stream basin lies between Nos. 484 and 485,

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 73

which is not a great distance. Nos. 483 and 484 lie close together, and are
exactly north of the astronomical station near Lake Sophy. The country
sloping towards Indian stream extends from monument No. 485 to No.
500. No. 489 is near the point of a curious northerly projection into
Quebec. Nos. 501 to 506 are on the slope of Hall's stream. No. 506 is
exactly on the head of the main Hall's stream, and is flanked closely by
Nos. 505 and 507. Nos. 508 to 517 lie at intervals along Hall's stream
to the east end of the north line of Vermont. The total length of the
north boundary line is no miles, but a direct course between the
extreme points is 32.7 miles. The monuments are of iron, having on
them the names of the U. S. and H. B. M. commissioners. The line
itself was carefully bushed out by the surveyors as wide as an ordinary
highway, and the trees have not yet grown up again, so that the course
of the boundary is still conspicuously marked.

The topographical features are carefully laid down along the whole line.
That west of Hall's stream, in Vermont, appears to have been projected
by new surveys in 185 1, by Lieut. Thom, U. S. Engineers. Monument
No. 522 lies just west of Leach Branch, in Canaan, Vt. Farther west,
Barnston Pinnacle, a very conspicuous granitic ledge, is said to rise about
600 feet above the lake at its base. The earlier surveys seem to have
been made in 1845. The line is copied as accurately as possible upon
our largest map. Mr. Huntington has written something concerning the
altitudes of this highland boundary, in his sketch of the topography of
Coos county.

Description of the Eastern Boundary of New Hampshire.

By J. H. Huntington, Commissioner on the part of New Hampshire to mark anew
the boundary between New Hampshire and Maine.

The eastern boundary of New Hampshire was for many years a matter
of fierce controversy. One reason of this, no doubt, was owing to the
fact that the geography of the country was little known; besides, the
same territory was granted to several different parties, both by the king
of England and the council of Plymouth. It was finally determined by
commissioners appointed by the king. Their report was as follows : "As
to the northern boundaries between said provinces, the court resolve and

174 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

determine that the dividing line shall pass up through the mouth of
Piscataqua harbor, and up the river Newichwannock, part of which is
now called Salmon Falls, and through the middle of the same up to the
fartherest head thereof, and from thence north two degrees westerly, until
1 20 miles be finished from the mouth of Piscataqua harbor aforesaid, or
until it meets his majesties other governments ; and that the dividing
line shall part the Isles of Sholes, and run through the middle of the
harbor between the islands to the sea on the southerly side, and that the
south-westerly part of said islands shall lye in and be accounted part of
the province of New Hampshire." To the order of Governor Belcher,
appointing Walter Bryent to survey the line, was affixed the following
memorandum : "The true north 2 west is by the needle north 8 east,
which is your course." Bryent went only to the Saco, and it is supposed
that the line was extended to the north-east corner of Shelburne, in 1763,
under the direction of Isaac Rindge. From this point the survey was
continued, under the direction of a committee of the legislature, to the
birch tree that formerly marked the northern terminus of the line, the
work having been done by Jeremiah Eames and Joseph Cram.

After the lapse of many years, when Maine had been erected into a
separate state, provision was made by the states of New Hampshire and
Maine to have the line resurveyed, and designated by suitable monu-
ments. Hon. Ichabod Bartlett, of Portsmouth, and Hon. J. W. Weeks,
of Lancaster, were appointed commissioners on the part of New
Hampshire.

In 1858 the line was again surveyed. Col. Henry O. Kent was ap-
pointed on the part of New Hampshire*

The northern terminus of the eastern boundary of the state is on the
water-shed between the streams flowing northward into the St. Lawrence,
and the streams that flow southward and form the Magalloway. The
iron post that marks the north-east corner of the state is also on the
boundary between the states and the provinces, and the point is said to
be 2,569 feet above the level of the sea.

The line between New Hampshire and Maine runs south 2 east.

* Since penning the above, Mr. Huntington has attended to his official duty of remarking this boundary line,
in the month of April, 1874. C H. H.

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 75

For the first fifteen miles there is an unbroken primeval forest ; then for
seven miles it is still a wilderness, but in New Hampshire all the large
timber has been taken off by lumbermen ; thence southward, clearings
alternate with the forest until we reach Chatham, whence southward the
country is settled. At first the descent is quite rapid, but, on reaching
the branches of the Magalloway, for several miles the country is com-
paratively level. But it soon rises, and we pass over Mt. Abbott, and
here we touch the water-shed between the Connecticut and the Magallo-
way ; and this is the only point where it reaches the line of Maine.
Leaving Mt. Abbott, the line descends somewhat, but in a mile and a
quarter it reaches the summit of Mt. Carmel, which is the highest point
on our eastern boundary. South from Mt. Carmel the line crosses sev-
eral branches of the Magalloway, passes over Prospect hill, and the next
stream of any considerable size is the Little Magalloway. From this
stream the line passes over a ridge of Bosebuck mountain, and on
on the southern border of the Academy grant it crosses Abbott brook.
Along the border of the Academy and Dartmouth College grants the
contour of the line is very irregular, but Half Moon mountain is the only
noticeable height. South of this mountain the line crosses an open bog,
and near the mouth of the Swift Diamond it twice crosses the Magallo-
way river, and it crosses it a third time near the north border of Went-
worth's Location. In Errol it crosses Umbagog lake, touching two points
of land on the eastern shore. On the border of Cambridge, the first
town south of Umbagog lake, the line crosses the Hampshire hills, and
several branches of the Androscoggin. In Success it crosses the
Chickwolnepy, then runs along the western slope of Goose Eye mountain,
passes over Mt. Ingalls, and then on the border of Shelburne it descends
to the Androscoggin. Southward it crosses a ridge of land, and two
miles and four tenths from the Androscoggin it strikes Wild river ; then
with varying undulations it rises until it reaches the summit of Mt.
Royce, whence the descent is very precipitous to the open country on
Cold river, in Chatham and Stow. The boundary follows the valley of
this stream below Chatham centre, and on the south line of Chatham it
crosses Kimball pond, and leaves only a small part of it in New Hamp-
shire. In Conway it crosses the Saco, thence passes over a gently undu-
lating country, except that there is quite a hill just before it crosses the

I76 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Ossipee river on the border of Freedom. Southward, except its lakes, the
country has no striking characteristics. The line touches Province pond,
that lies principally in Effingham and Wakefield, and in the south part of
the latter it strikes East pond, which is the source of Salmon Falls river,
and this is the boundary to the ocean. From the mouth of the river the
line runs along the main channel, and divides the Isles of Shoals into
unequal parts. The largest area, including Appledore and Smutty-nose
islands, belongs to Maine ; but Star island, which has the chief popula-
tion of the islands, belongs to New Hampshire. The boundary line
passes between Smutty-nose and Cedar, which are practically one, and
Star island. J. H. Huntington.

Western and Southern Boundaries.

There has been no end of dispute respecting the southern boundary
line. The south-eastern portion is made to average the distance of three
miles northerly from the Merrimack river for about thirty miles. From
a fixed point, a "pine tree" between Pelham, N. H., and Dracut, Mass.,
five and one fourth miles east of the Merrimack, there commences a line
running directly to Connecticut river, with the course N. 86 59/ 37" .5 W.
The distance is about fifty-eight miles. According to a plan in the state
library, the distance between the south-east corner of Hinsdale and a
due east and west line starting from the pine tree and ending on the
west bank of Connecticut river, is 942 rods. The difference between
the true and magnetic meridian is given as 6 20' 30". The plan was
drawn by E. Hunt, from a survey made August, 1825.

The western boundary of the state has been fixed at low water on the
west bank of Connecticut river as far as the north-east corner of Ver-
mont. Above that point the small Hall's stream separates the state from
the province of Quebec.

Elevations along the Boundaries of New Hampshire.

Height of tide at Portsmouth is 8.6 feet; the mean or half tide is, in all cases, the
datum to which our altitudes refer. Head of tide in branches of the Piscataqua is
at Exeter, Dover, and South Berwick.

Height
in feet.

Great Falls, top of dam, 166

Three Ponds, Milton, 409

TOPOGRAPHY. 177

Horn pond, Acton, Me., (Wells) ... . 479

North-east ponds, " 499

Highway crossing by Saco river, 45 r

Grand Trunk Railway, . 7 1 !

Umbagog lake, I2 5^

Mt. Carmel, 37^

Crown Monument, .......- 2568

Near Magalloway pond, 2812

North-west head of Magalloway river, 2917

Gap near Lake Sophy, 2146

Mt. Prospect, 2629

Hall's Stream bridge, Vermont line, 1098

Bridge, West Stewartstown 1054

Railroad bridge, North Stratford, 9 J 5

Top of Fifteen-miles falls, at crossing of P. & O. Railroad, Dalton, low to

high water, 832-836

Connecticut river, just below Lower Waterford bridge, high water, . . 643

*' at foot of Mclndoe's falls, 43 2

" at Wells River, low water, 47

" at Hanover, 375

" at White River Junction, low to high water, . . 33-35 2

" at Windsor Railroad bridge, 304

" at Beaver Meadow, Charlestown, 289

" at foot of Bellows Falls, 234

" at head of Stebbins island, Hinsdale, 206

Descent from Connecticut lake to this point, 14 12

State Line station, Cheshire Railroad, 898

Merrimack river at state line, 91

Topographical Districts.

I. T/ie Connecticut Valley. The limits assigned to this district differ
from the exact area drained by the waters of the hydrographic system of
the Connecticut. Owing to the presence of a prominent mountain ridge
six or seven miles back from the river, the proper valley lies in the
western part of the east side of the basin. This boundary corresponds,
also, with that of the distinctive agricultural and geological character of
the district. In general, it follows on the east line of the ridge of slaty
or quartzose hills from Winchester to Benton, and thence the eastern
line of the Connecticut basin to Carroll ; thence it continues down the
vol. 1. 25

178 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

John's river valley to the Connecticut in Dalton, crosses over the Con-
cord, Vt, ridge to the eastern line of the Passumpsic river basin, which
it follows around to Newark, Sheffield, and Cabot. From here the line
coincides with the west border of the Connecticut basin to Washington,
Vt.; thence it proceeds west of south directly to Proctors ville, Vt. Here
it turns back sharply to the south-west corner of Hartford, whence it
proceeds again nearly in a right line west of south to the Massachusetts
line in Halifax, Vt. This area comprises about 3,200 square miles, and
it is the best agricultural district east of the Green Mountains.

Hinsdale and Vernon combined the southern border towns of this
district make a natural basin about seven miles in diameter. Hinsdale
is not over half a mile wide at its southern extremity. On the east bank
of the Connecticut, Foxden mountain bounds the district as far as the vil-
lage of Hinsdale. Here the Ashuelot has cut a deep, narrow chasm into
the range. The high land continues to the north, culminating along the
north town line, in Wantastiquit or Mine mountain, more than 1,000
feet above the Connecticut. The more eastern part of this mountainous
pile is called Daniel's, and East mountain, and Bear hill. A spur runs
down opposite Brattleborough village, about a mile and a half, close to the
river's bank. As seen from Brattleborough, Wantastiquit mountain is
rough and precipitous, barely giving a foothold for trees.

On the Vernon side the range commences directly at the South Vernon
Railroad junction, and follows the state line westerly to its culmination
in the south-west corner of the town, perhaps 700 feet above the river.
Then it sweeps around, and pursues a northerly course into Brattle-
borough.

Although one might fancy this basin an extinct volcanic crater, it was
not this resemblance which led a few persons, near the close of the
eighteenth century, to imagine Wantastiquit mountain an active volcano.
The supposed volcanic phenomena were described fully in the Transac-
tions of the American Academy of Arts and Sciences, Boston. Dr.
Timothy Dwight also visited the locality in 1798, and seems to have
regarded the phenomena as "in a very humble degree volcanic." The
site of the supposed eruption is about one hundred and fifty feet below
the summit. A loud noise had been heard, and on this spot a black iron
ore, much like scoria, seemed to have been thrown about. From an

TOPOGRAPHY. 179

excavation, iron ochre and the "vitrified ore" were obtained in considera-
ble amount. The noise probably came from the decomposition of pyrites,
while the ores are such as slightly resemble artificial slag, though formed
by concretion or segregation from moist clay.

The high land continues through Chesterfield, Westmoreland, and Wal-
pole, cut down to 830 feet in Westmoreland for the passage of the
Cheshire Railroad, and to the level of the Connecticut just below Bellows
Falls. On the Vermont side the slate range of Guilford has been cut
through by West river in Brattleborough and Dummerston. Just to the
north there is the conical granitic peak of Black mountain, which is the
culmination of the hilly ridge from Bellows Falls. Both the Vermont
and New Hampshire ridges close in at Bellows Falls, making Kilburn
peak in Walpole. This is about 1 200 feet high, and is more ragged and
precipitous than Wantastiquit. It is an outlier of an older formation,
upon which the slates were originally deposited, and then elevated so as
to stand nearly upon their edges. Three streams have cut around this
mountain ; the Connecticut and Saxton's rivers on the west, and Cold
river along its south-eastern slope. My father supposed the Bellows
Falls gorge was worn out subsequently to the formation of the pot-holes
in Orange, along the track of the Northern Railroad. The occurrence of
the pot-holes, however, can be explained more simply otherwise.

The third of the basins is not quite so regular. On the east side
there commences a series of mountains of quartz, in Charlestown,
Acworth, Unity, Claremont, Croydon, Grantham, Plainfield, East Leba-
non, Hanover, Lyme, Orford, and Piermont, into Benton. The basin
may terminate in Cornish, opposite Mt. Ascutney. In Charlestown we
have Page, Sam's, and Prospect hills. Perry's mountain makes a range
between Unity and Charlestown, cut through by Little Sugar river. The
land then rises into Fifield hill, Unity, and Bible hill, Claremont. At
this point Sugar river valley intervenes, and carries the proper Connecti-
cut slope farther east than the district under consideration. On the
north the mountains increase their strength, and the long and elevated
Croydon and Grantham range pushes on to the Mascomy lake in East
Lebanon. Green and Bald mountains in Claremont are the foot hills of
this range. Barber's mountain occupies a bend in the river in West
Claremont. In Cornish, Parsonage, Smith's, Kenyon, and Dingleton

ISO PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

hills make a series of elevations crossing over towards Ascutney, the
highest peak in the Connecticut district, and crowding the river.

On the Vermont side the range of hills is not high below Ascutney,
and notches have been excavated for the passage of William's and Black
rivers. Mt. Ascutney is a conical mountain, mostly of eruptive granite,
protruded through the calcareous range, and rises to about 3,168 feet
above the sea. It is as much isolated in position as it is elevated above
the ridge of which it is the culmination.

Perhaps a fourth basin may be said to commence with Ascutney, and
terminate in the narrows above Fairlee and Orford.

There is a gap at East Lebanon for the passage of Mascomy river,
above which the Mascomy lake basin expands as extensively as the Sun-
apee lake country at the head of Sugar river. The quartzite range of
Moose mountain is broken at the south line of Lyme, and then rises
gradually to form Mt. Cuba in Orford, 2,273 f eet above the sea. On the
west slope of Cuba, Lime and Bass hills, with Sunday and Soapstone
mountains, constitute a ridge extending close on to the Connecticut.

On the Vermont side there are no prominent hills adjacent to the river.
The valley of White river is the deepest and most extensive yet traversed,
as it is the main valley threading north-westerly towards Montpelier and
Burlington, and, consequently, the route of the Central Vermont Rail-
road. Our limits are here much broadened to take in the hilly calcareous
country of all the eastern townships of upper Windsor and Orange coun-
ties. The proper ridge would extend from Beaver hill in Norwich, and
Copperas hill in Strafford, towards Washington, Orange, and the elevated
gores of land west of Peacham, into Cabot. Thetford hill is on the sub-
range next to the river, which is cut entirely through farther north for
the outlet of Fairlee pond, and crowds the Connecticut in Sawyer's
mountain next the Soapstone hill. Opposite Orford village this makes a
precipitous ledge. A view of the closing in of Sawyer's and Soapstone
mountains is given in Fig. 20, in which the steep escarpment of the
former and the more undulating outline of the latter mountain on the
right hand side may be distinctly discerned. In the foreground are
alluvial terraces, the view being that seen from Bissell's hill, a little north
of Orford village.

The Haverhill section of the valley next commands attention. The

TOPOGRAPHV.

181

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valley widens so as to give a great breadth of alluvial meadow between
the villages of Haverhill and Newbury, more so than at any other point in
the valley, the nearest approach
to it below being in Walpole and
Westminster. These meadows
are two miles in width, and the
river is very crooked, flowing
nearly twice as far as the linear
distance from Howard's island
to the south line of Haverhill.
From the village of Newbury,
which is located upon a beauti-
ful terrace, one can see the hills
rise higher and higher back of
Haverhill, to the lofty ridge of
Moosilauke, the south-west ex-
tension of the White Moun-
tains. There are five peaks in
a line below the highest ridge,
which are distinguished by
their baldness, and known as
Owl's Head, Blueberry, Hog's
Back, Sugar Loaf, and Black
mountains.

On the Vermont side the
hills are scattered, abundant,
and are in no way remarkable
directly opposite the Haverhill
section ; but the range from Knox mountain in Orange to Cow hill in
Peacham is the counterpart of the Moosilauke group, a little farther north.

The Ammonoosuc section may embrace all that lies east of the Con-
necticut as far north as Dalton above Haverhill. The calcareous rocks
mostly disappear to make way for the older and harder green schist,
which gives a different shape to the hills. This is where the Connecticut
bends north-east and east, and in the angle of the bend is the Gardner
mountain range, reaching nearly 2,000 feet. Landaff, Lisbon, and Little-

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H
O

1 82 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

ton give slaty eminences in Pond, Pine, Sugar, Eustis, and portions of
Mann's hills. The gneissic eminences are Bronson and Ore hills, Green
mountain, Iron Ore hill, and Moody ledge in Landaff, and numerous
unnamed summits in the western part of Bethlehem.

The Connecticut has excavated a passage through the Gardner moun-
tain range, in what is known as Fifteen-miles falls, from Barnet to South
Lancaster, where the water descends nearly four hundred feet. The
valley is narrow, rocky, and mostly devoid of superficial deposits above
the drift. In contrast with this is the valley of the Ammonoosuc, between
Woodsville and Bethlehem, which is full of deposits of modified drift.
These differences have given rise to the inquiry whether the Connecticut
may not have flowed formerly through the Ammonoosuc valley, passing
over the water-shed at Whitefield.

The Passumpsic section is located in a fertile calcareous region, and
abounds in deposits of sand, gravel, and clay. It lies entirely in Vermont.
On the east are the slate hills of Kirby and Waterford, which are pro-
longed into the schist eminences of Lunenburg, Victory, and Granby ;
and there are gneissic and granitic mountains, in the same connection,
following around by Willoughby lake to Barton. The notch between Mts.
Horr and Pisgah, in Westmore, is the most conspicuous feature in the
landscape of all northern Vermont ; and the closer it is approached the
more irregular it appears. These two hills rise precipitously 1,800 feet
above Willoughby lake, having only the water between them, and are
less than a mile apart near the upper end of the lake.

The country rises from Crystal lake, in Barton, to Sheffield ; and the
water-shed between the Passumpsic and Lamoille rivers, through Shef-
field, Wheelock, and Walden, coincides with the western border of the
Connecticut district. It is nearly all susceptible of cultivation, though
abounding in forests ; and the rocks are nearly all calcareous.

II. Cods and Essex District. This lies at the extreme north of the area
of our explorations. It is all mountainous, sparsely settled, largely cov-
ered with forests, yet containing many tracts of great fertility. It is the
most diversified of all the topographical districts. The main water-shed
of New Hampshire passes through the middle portion from Randolph to
Mt. Carmel ; and, in Essex county, there is a similar ridge from Lunen-
burg to the state line. The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the

TOPOGRAPHY,

183

lowest line of depression that can be found in this area. Commencing at
the boundary of Quebec and Vermont, with 1,232 feet elevation above
the sea, it rises to 1,357 feet at Norton, and thence descends to Connec-
ticut river at North Stratford, which is 915 feet. Following the river
down to Groveton, there may be a fall of twenty feet. The road pro-
ceeds up the Upper Ammonoosuc, attaining 1,080 feet at Milan water-
station. Thence it descends to the Androscoggin valley, passing into
Maine with an altitude of 713 feet.

Fig. 21. MT. LYON, FROM GUILDHALL FALLS.

At the entrance to the Upper Ammonoosuc valley there stands a bold
ridge, known formerly as Cape Horn, in Northumberland. Mr. Hunting-
ton has proposed to designate it as Mt. Lyon, in honor of J. E. Lyon,
president of the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad. The ridge is too
precipitous to be cultivated. A sketch of it is given in Fig. 21.

There are two prominent lines of depression, running in a north-east-
erly direction, in the Coos region. The first follows the Androscoggin,
from Shelburne to Umbagog lake, 713 to 1,256 feet; the second follows
the Connecticut river, from 830 feet at Dalton to 1,619 ^ eet a * Connec-
ticut lake, and thence to 2,146 feet at the gap above the source of the
Connecticut. All the rest of this district is more elevated than these
three lines of depression.

Both the elevation and the high latitude of this district render the
climate of this district, including the White Mountains, the most rigorous
of any in the state. Plants that suffer from protracted winters cannot
therefore be successfully cultivated here. Nothing is done with the vine,

184 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

and scarcely anything with fruit trees. The staple crops are grain, oats,
and potatoes, no county in the United States yielding better results for
the latter article than this. On this account there are many manufacto-
ries of potato starch here.

As the topography of this district is of special geological interest, a
whole chapter will be devoted to it, prepared by Mr. Huntington.

III. White Mountain Area. The White Mountains of New Hamp-
shire cover an area of 1,270 square miles, bounded by the state line on
the east, the Androscoggin river and the Grand Trunk Railway on the
north-east and north, the Connecticut river valley, or an irregular line
from Northumberland to Warren, on the west, the less elevated region of
Baker's river on the south-west, the Pemigewasset river and the lake
district on the south. The Pemigewasset valley makes a prominent
notch in it in Thornton and Woodstock. The Saco river cuts the White
Mountains into nearly equal parts ; and it may be convenient sometimes
to speak of what lies on the east and the west sides of this stream.

The mountains may be grouped in ten sub-divisions. 1. Mt. Starr
King group. 2. Mt. Carter group. 3. Mt. Washington range, with a
Jackson branch. 4. Cherry Mountain district. 5. Mt. Willey range.
6. Mts. Carrigain and Osceola group. 7. Mt. Passaconnaway range.
8. Mts. Twin and Lafayette group. 9. Mts. Moosilauke and Profile
division. 10. Mt. Pequawket area. Divisions 2 and 3 may be termed
"Waumbek" for convenience, and divisions 5, 6, and 8 may receive the
name of "Pemigewasset."

Considered as a whole, the main range would commence with Pine
mountain in Gorham, follow the Mt. Washington ridge, cross the Saco
below Mt. Webster, and continue south-westerly by Nancy mountain, Mt.
Carrigain, Mt. Osceola, and terminate in Welch mountain in Waterville.
Another considerable range may be said to commence with the Sugar
Loaves in Carroll and Bethlehem, and continue westerly by the Twin
mountains, Lafayette, Profile, Kinsman, and Moosilauke. A third of some
consequence might embrace the Carter range, with Iron mountain in
Bartlett. These mountain groups differ much in geological character,
age, and marked topographical features.

1. Mt. Starr King Group. This has not been explored very exten-
sively, and it is not so much frequented by visitors as most of the other

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 85

districts. It is embraced in the remote portions of the towns of Gorham,
Randolph, Jefferson, Lancaster, Stark, Milan, Berlin, and the whole of
Kilkenny. It may be bounded by the Upper Ammonoosuc and Andros-
coggin rivers on the north and east, by Moose and Israel's rivers on the
south, and the Connecticut slope on the west. From the extreme out-
lying foot hill on the west line of Stark to Gorham, the longest diameter
cf this group, the distance is sixteen miles. The greatest width is thir-
teen miles, or from Jefferson hill to Milan water-station. The shape of
the area, as mapped, is oval-elliptical, being more pointed at the north
than the south. The area may comprise 150 square miles.

The Upper Ammonoosuc river flows in a broad valley in Randolph
and Berlin, and thereby divides the group into two parts. The source,
called the Pond of Safety, is nearly 900 feet above Milan water-station,
and there is a depression in the ridge in the south towards Jefferson.
For geological reasons, we understand that the northern portion of the
Starr King region was once an immense plateau, and the numerous
valleys in it now are the result of atmospheric erosion. Not less than
seven streams have notched in the edge of this plateau, the three most
prominent erosions being from Berlin, Stark (Mill brook), and Lancaster.
There is a central ridge through Kilkenny, the Pilot mountain range,
connected by a valley with Mt. Starr King in Jefferson. A branch
diverges from this range to Pilot mountain in Stark, formerly ascended
by a foot-path from Lost Nation. Green's ledge and Black mountain
are spurs to the east from the Pilot range.

From Mt. Starr King to Berlin Falls there runs an irregularly curved
range. It is composed of Pliny, Randolph, and Crescent mountains, and
Mt. Forest. Section X passes through the centre of this district from
Berlin Falls to Lancaster, from which the reader may learn the irregulari-
ties of the surface-profile. Mts. Starr King, Pilot, and Randolph are the
culminating points, being 3,800, 3,640, and 3,043 feet respectively. The
region is entirely covered by a forest.

2. Mt. Carter Group. This lies in Shelburne, Bean's Purchase, Chat-
ham, and Jackson, and is the least known of all the mountain districts.
I do not find any explorer of it anxious to continue his investigations
therein. The mountains, however, are like all other elevated tracts of
land far away from habitations. There seems to be a heavy range from
vol. 1. 26

1 86

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Gorham to Jackson, quite near the Peabody and Ellis valleys, while on
the east the slope towards the Androscoggin is quite gradual. Mt. Moriah
is one of the more northern peaks of this chain. Fig. 19, p. 146, will
show its features. The view is from a point in the Androscoggin valley
in Shelburne. The distance is so great that the stern, rugged features of
the mountain are much softened. Wild river occupies a broad valley
in Bean's Purchase, trending north-easterly. The highest part of the
Carter range lies next the Peabody river ; and the western slope is much
steeper than the eastern. A view of Mt. Carter, from a point south of
the village of Gorham, is quite impressive, as exhibited in the sketch.

Fig. 22. MT. CARTER, FROM GORHAM.

Imp mountain lies between Moriah and Carter. There is a very deep
notch between Height's and Carter's mountains, in the edge of Jackson.
The east branch of Ellis river flows from it south-easterly ; and the range
courses easterly so as to form the entire westerly and southerly rim of
the Wild river basin. Several tributaries flow to Wild river on the north ;
and others to the Saco on the south of this easterly range. It curves
more northerly near the Maine line, terminating, so far as New Hamp-
shire is concerned, in Mt. Royce, directly on the border.

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 87

The Carter mountain group sends five spurs into Jackson and Chatham.
The first is the continuation of Height's mountain, adjoining the Pinkham
road, to Spruce and Eagle mountains, near Jackson village. The second
comes down from Carter mountain, to include Black and Tin mountains.
The third spur takes in Doublehead mountain, and is bordered easterly
by the east branch of the Saco and the Wildcat branch. Near the line
of Bean's Purchase and Chatham lies Baldface mountain, 3,600 feet high,
from which run the fourth and fifth spurs. The fourth comprises Sable
mountain, in Jackson, and its foot hills. The fifth is composed of
Mts. Eastman and Slope, in Chatham, which run into the Pequawket
area.

3. Mt. Washington Range. The main range of Mt. Washington
extends from Gorham to Bartlett, about twenty-two miles. The culmi-
nating point is central, with a deep gulf towards Gorham, a slope on the
north, formed partially by the westerly Mt. Deception range, which also
produces the broad Ammonoosuc valley on the west, in connection with
the axial line of summits. On the south there are two principal valleys,
the more westerly occupying the depression of Dry or Mt. Washington
river, and the easterly passing down the slope of Rocky branch, which
travels easterly near its termination, so as to be parallel with the Saco in
Bartlett. Starting with the Androscoggin valley, the range commences
in the low Pine mountain. In the south-east corner of Gorham this is
intersected by the pass of the Pinkham road between Randolph and the
Glen house. Next, the land rises rapidly to the top of Mt. Madison, 5,400
feet. The range now curves westerly, passing over the summits of
Adams, Jefferson, and Clay. The gap between Clay and Washington is
the best place to behold the deep abyss in which the west branch of
Peabody river takes its rise. From Washington, one can easily discern
the east rim of the Great Gulf, for upon it is located the carriage-road
to the Glen house. From the Lake of the Clouds, and the eminence
south of Tuckerman's ravine to Madison, it is easy to imagine the area
an elevated plateau, of which Bigelow's lawn is a portion, out of which
Washington may rise 800 feet. On the east of Washington, two deep
ravines have been excavated, Tuckerman's and Huntington's. The first
runs easterly, and holds the head waters of Ellis river ; the second com-
mences at the southernmost angle of the carriage-road, at the fifth mile

i88

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Fig. 23. MT. JEFFERSON AND GREAT GULF.

post, and runs towards the
first. The frontispiece will
show the character of these
two valleys, and their rela-
tions to the adjoining moun-
tains.

The shape of Jefferson
and the foot of Adams, as
seen from the Half-way
house, are indicated in Fig.
23. The sketch is designed
to show the shape of the
Great Gulf. Instead of re-
garding the eminences as
gravel banks, the reader

From Half-way house.

must realize that they represent 2,000 feet of altitude above the station
of the observer.

Fig. 24 sketches the east side of Mt. Washington, from Thompson's
falls, in the Carter range, south of the Glen house.

Fig. 24. RAVINES ON MT. WASHINGTON, FROM THOMPSON'S FALLS.

The deep valley on the left is Tuckerman's ravine. Huntington's ra-
vine, the head of Peabody river, lies back of a low, woody ridge terminating

TOPOGRAPHY.

189

just behind the prominent spruce tree in the centre of the foreground.
The tops of the ridge back of Huntington's ravine, and the one to the
extreme left, mark the edge of the 5,000 feet plateau about Mt. Washing-
ton. Mt. Washington itself rises above the plateau a little to the right
of the centre of the sketch. The projection between the two ravines is
known as Davis's Spur.

These and other topographical features of the Mt. Washington range
are well represented upon a map designed to illustrate the Alpine and
sub- Alpine districts of Waumbek, which will appear in the chapter upon
the distribution of insects in New Hampshire.

Past Mt. Washington the main range descends to the pass of the Lake
of the Clouds, the source of the Ammonoosuc river, 5,000 feet high.
The first mountain is Monroe a double, ragged peak scarcely ever visited,
the road passing around it. Next follow in order Mts. Franklin, Pleasant,
Clinton, Jackson, and Webster. The gaps between all these are small.
Mt. Pleasant may be recognized by its dome shape. Fig. 25 will give a
good idea of the ranges as seen from near the White Mountain house in
Carroll. The last peak on the right is a fragment of Jackson. It lies a
little back from the line ; and the road to Crawford's lies in front of it.

Fig. 25. MT. WASHINGTON, FROM NEAR FABYAN'S.

The valley in front is the broad basin of the Ammonoosuc ; and the
lower slopes of the Deception range on the left. Mt. Webster is a long

190

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

mountain with precipitous flank on the side towards the Saco. It is
directly opposite the Willey house. It is one of the main features of the
notch.

The east flank of the mountains, from Monroe to Webster, is washed
by the powerful Mt. Washington river, which forms the central line of
Cutts's grant, heading in Oakes's gulf. It is the proper continuation of
the Saco valley, its source being several miles farther away than the small
pond near Crawford's. In dry seasons the water may be low, which fact,
in connection with a broad, gravelly expanse of decomposed granite near
the lower end of the valley, gave rise to the early appellation of "Dry
river." Dr. Bemis proposed that it receive the name of Mt. Washington
river.

From the east side of Oakes's gulf, or the continuation of Bigelow's
lawn, two ranges course southerly. The western follows the Saco to just
opposite Sawyer's rock, having, in the lower part of its course, Giant's
stairs, Mt. Resolution, Mt. Crawford, Mt. Hope, and "Hart's ledge," of

Fig. 26. ?.IT. CRAWFORD, FROM THE NORTH-WEST.

Boardman's map. Two heliotypes show the shape of Crawford. When
seen from the north-west, a little below the Willey house, the summit

TOPOGRAPHY.

I 9 I

projects northwardly, like the head of a wild beast, overhanging the
granitic slope. From near Dr. Bemis's residence, one gets the idea of a
broad, conical peak, furrowed by a temporary stream. There have been
avalanches down the west side, where very large rocks have bounded into
the middle of the Saco flood plain, 175 feet at a single leap. The over-
hanging character of Mt. Crawford may be somewhat exaggerated in the
figure ; but any one's pencil is tempted to distort somewhat the char-
acteristic features of summits, in order to give strangers the proper
impression of their effect in the landscape.

The more easterly range is elevated but is not conspicuous, and con-
sequently is not named. It is flanked by Rocky Branch on the west and
by Ellis river on the east. Near Jackson village it curves easterly, and
terminates in the granitic Iron mountain. Between Sawyer's rock and
the mouth of Rocky Branch there is a range running easterly, with a
spur towards Mt. Crawford, separated by Razor brook from the Mt. Hope
ridge. It lies between the southern termini of the two divergent ranges
pointing southerly from Bigelow's lawn. Its precipitous character is
shown in the sketch placed at the end of Chapter I.

4. Cherry Mountain District. The Mt. Deception range consists of
four peaks, Mt. Mitten, Mt. Dartmouth, Mt. Deception, and Cherry
mountain, formerly called Pondicherry. It is separated by a considerable
valley from Mt. Jefferson, and its gentler slope lies on the northern flank

Fig. 27. CHERRY MOUNTAIN, FROM TWIN MOUNTAIN HOUSE.

towards Israel's river. The road from Fabyan's to Jefferson passes
between Cherry and Deception. The range runs nearly at right angles

I92 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

to the main mountain axis. Cherry mountain has a northerly spur of
large dimensions, called Owl's Head. A view of Cherry mountain, as
seen from a point half a mile west of the Twin Mountain house, is pre-
sented in Fig. 27. The northern part of the range seems to be the
highest.

5. Mt. Willey Range. This starts from near the White Mountain
house in Carroll, and terminates in Mt. Willey. Its northern terminus
is low, and the highest peak is at the southern end of the range. Six
granitic summits may be counted before reaching the high summit of
Mt. Tom, just behind the Crawford house. This peak is high and impos-
ing, as seen from the vicinity of the Crawford house. The stream form-
ing Beecher's cascade passes between Tom and the next summit south.

This latter peak has been named Mt. Lincoln, in honor of the late
President Abraham Lincoln, by some unknown person. This title has
been applied to stereoscopic views of it : but if we apply to the naming
of mountains the canons of nomenclature required for scientific terms,
it will be impossible to retain the name of Lincoln, because it has been
preoccupied at Franconia. It is doubtful whether Mr. Fifield proposed
to call the nameless peak Lincoln in advance of photographic usage at
Crawford's ; but the fact of its prior publication in a map is sufficient
reason for adopting the name in Franconia, and hence to reject the appel-
lation in the other case. I propose, therefore, the name of Mt. Field for
the eminence near the Crawford house, in honor of the worthy gentleman
(Darby Field) who first ascended Mt. Washington in 1642, and will use
it upon the map and in the descriptions of this report. See p. 44.

From Mt. Field to Mt. Willey the high land is continuous, reaching an
elevation of 4,300 feet. It then drops off abruptly, and terminates, while
the water-shed continues into the Carrigain district. Ethan's pond is
situated a little to the south-west of the base of the precipice. This is
the extreme head of the waters flowing into Merrimack river. The Field-
Willey range is directly opposite to Mt. Webster; and the intervening
valley is the most striking part of the White Mountain notch. The head
of the notch is formed by Mt. Willard, only about 550 feet above the
Crawford plain. It is covered by trees on the north side ; and the south
is precipitous, looking down the valley of the Saco. One of our helio-
types shows this view, which is one of great beauty.

TOPOGRAPHY.

193

6. Carrigain and Osceola Group. Across from Mt. Webster the Mt
Washington range is continued in the mountains culminating in Carri-
gain, 4,678 feet high. This is a lofty, conical summit, occupying the most
conspicuous position in the horizon when seen from Mts. Washington,
Crawford, Pequawket, Moosilauke, and Lafayette. Two summits in this
line, north of Carrigain, have names, viz., Mts. Nancy and Lowell, the
latter after Abner Lowell, of Portland, and known heretofore as Brick-
house mountain. There is an interesting gap between Lowell and Carri-
gain, represented in the chapter on Scenery. The original of this sketch
was prepared by George F. Morse, of Portland, who visited Mt. Carrigain,
in company with G. L. Vose, in 1869. The depth and impressiveness of
the notch remind one of the great gap between Willey and Webster. It
would be a good route for a carriage-road from Bartlett over to the east
branch of the Pemigewasset. Nearly west from Carrigain is Mt. Hancock
(Pemigewasset of Guyot). It is nearly as high as Carrigain (4,420 feet),
and falls off gradually to the forks of the East Branch on the east line of
Lincoln. The space between Carrigain and Osceola abounds in granite
mountains, often with precipitous sides. Tripyramid may represent a
spur (if not an isolated group) from them, running towards Whiteface.
Between Tripyramid and Osceola there is a deep gap, in which the Greeley
ponds are situated. Osceola, or " Mad River peak" of Guyot, is a double
mountain with a deep excavation on the south side for one of the tribu-
tary streams of Mad river. The range is continuous into Tecumseh,
Fisher's, and Welch mountains in Waterville. Sketches of Osceola and
Tecumseh are presented herewith.

//'

'?-

frr^l

*^i? -c

Osceola is the highest
mountain on the left, in
Fig. 28, and the most
distant peak on the right
is its eastern spur. Mad
river comes from a valley
to the right of all the
hills represented in the

Fig. 28. MT. OSCEOLA.
From S. M. near Greeley's hotel, Waterville.

sketch. There is a deep valley to the south-west of Osceola. Then a
mountain appears much like Osceola reversed. It is shown in Fig. 29,
vol. 1. 27

194

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

with the name of Mt.
Tecumseh, proposed,
as I understand, by
E. J. Young, photog-
rapher, of Campton
village, who has pub-
, lished at least two
stereoscopic views of
Fig. 29. mt. tecumseh. it, with this name

From S. M. near Greeley's hotel. appended.

Cone mountain succeeds Welch, but this is not so conspicuous an emi-
nence as appears upon some of the maps. North-westerly from Osceola
the high granitic range continues as far as the East Branch, the last sum-
mits being Black and Loon Pond mountains. This very interesting
region is unknown to most tourists. The only mountain accessible by a
path is Osceola, from which most of the others can be seen to advantage.

7. Passacoiincnvay Range. This has an easterly course, and bounds
the White Mountain area upon the south. The most massive of the
series is Black mountain, or "Sandwich Dome" of Guyot, on the line

between Sandwich and

Waterville, over 4,000
feet high. The annexed
sketch shows this moun-
tain behind Noon Peak,
or the one terminating
abruptly in the centre of
the view. The peak to
. the right is Denison's.

Fig. 30. BLACK MOUNTAIN AND NOON PEAK.

Greeley's hotel in the foreground. The observer is SlippOSed

to be stationed near Greeley's hotel. A path leads to this summit, where
one can see advantageously the Waterville basin as flanked by Tripyra-
mid and the Osceola range. A high plateau extends from Black to
Tripyramid and Whiteface. The latter is double, and the southern part
has been recently occupied by the U. S. Coast Survey as a signal station.
From here Passaconnaway looms up majestically. It is a sharp dome,
covered by trees to the very summit, and rises far above the surrounding

TOPOGRAPHY.

195

peaks. Our most recent calculations place this summit in the east edge
of Waterville. Passaconnaway lies a little north of the main ridge. The
space between this and Chocorua is occupied by low, ragged mountains.

Chocorua is the sharpest of all the New Hampshire summits, and can
be the most easily recognized and located on this account. One of the
heliotypes gives a distant view, and the annexed figure illustrates the
appearance of the peak near at hand. The cone is composed of an

Fig. 31. SUMMIT OF CHOCORUA.

uncommon variety of granite. To the eastward the mountains gradually
fall off till the plains of Conway are reached. The country south of this
mountain range is low and undulating.

I96 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Albany Mountains. Swift river divides the Albany mountains into two
parts, rising on the long easterly slopes of the Carrigain-Osceola range and
Green's cliff. Those just described form the southern rim of this basin.
Those upon the north side are the Mote mountains, adjacent to Conway,
and mostly unnamed peaks along the south bank of the Saco in Bartlett,
joining on to Tremont in a wild tract of forest. The Mote mountains
have been burnt over, so that they appear unusually barren when seen
from a distance. They are the newest of the White Mountains, while
the foundations of the Passaconnaway range are the oldest. With a
different arrangement of description, the Albany basin may be said to
have very gentle slopes upon the inside, but on the Saco valley range
and the Chocorua group the hills dip abruptly in opposite directions.
This basin may also be termed a projection eastwardly from the Carri-
gain range.

8. Alts. Lafayette and Tzuin. This area is bounded on the north by
the Ammonoosuc, on the east by New Zealand river and the east branch
of the Pemigewasset, which curves so as to make it the south line,
also, on the west by the north branch of the Pemigewasset. It contains
two prominent ranges, first, the western one, from Haystack to the junc-
tion of the two branch streams ; and the other, from the Twin mountains
to the mouth of the Franconia branch. The Haystack, a conical peak, is
separated by a series of small gaps from Lafayette. The Lafayette
mountains are peculiar in form. The range is quite elevated, extremely
narrow, and consisting of seven summits. Lafayette, 5,290 feet, is the
second from the north. Then follow Mt. Lincoln of Fifield, 5,101 feet,
two nameless peaks, Mts. Liberty and Flume, each 4,500 feet, the latter
to the south-east of the usual course of the ridge. This elevated ridge
is composed of dark felsite. The peaks south of Mt. Flume are coarsely
granitic, being Big and Little Coolidge, Potash mountain, and others.

The Twin mountain range occupies the middle line between the Saco
and Pemigewasset rivers. The two most prominent peaks are a mile
apart, eight miles south of the Twin Mountain house, and are 5,000 feet
high. Scarcely any mountains are more difficult to reach than these, on
account of the stunted growth near their tops. The ridge is broad, and
keeps at almost the same level for two or three miles south of the summit.
On the west of this range there is an isolated ridge of no great dimen-

TOPOGRAPHY. 1 97

sions ; and, on the north-east, a mass of mountains has been separated
from the main summits by the erosive action of Little river. The highest
of these separated peaks is sometimes confounded with the Twin moun-
tains, because only one of the Twins is seen from the hotel named after
them. The double character is seen from either Washington or Lafayette,
and not from the Twin Mountain house. That the early distinctions may
not be forgotten, and for the sake of fixing the position of a noble moun-
tain, I venture to name the highest of the unnamed peaks north-east of
Little river Mt. Hale, after Rev. E. E. Hale, of Boston, editor of Old and
New, who assisted Dr. Jackson in exploring the White Mountains, and
has done much to make them famous by his writings.

To the north of Mt. Hale are three granitic lumps, which, for conven-
ience, I have called the Three Sugar Loaves. On the north-east side of
Twin mountain is a curious nubble or small conical summit 150 feet high,
which is observable from several places along the Ammonoosuc valley.
It is probably an enormous vein of very coarse granite. Fig. 32 is a
rough pen sketch of the outlines of the mountains between Haystack
and the first Sugar Loaf, as seen from near the Twin Mountain house.
Their names are very plainly indicated, and those interested will readily
recognize the place of the newly named peak. A sketch of the outlines
of the mountains to the south, as seen from the north Twin mountain,
is given in Fig. 33. This is a view very rarely seen; but the proprietors
of the Twin Mountain house would add much to the attractiveness of
their establishment if they would construct a bridle-path to the top of
the mountain.

A view of the Twin mountains and Haystack, from the east part of
Bethlehem hill, Fig. 34, will show better than words the several ridges
and valleys composing the range. They show well, also, from the Wing
Road station, and from Sugar Hill, Lisbon, as represented in Fig. 35.

There is a deep and broad valley between the Mt. Tom and the Twin
ranges. The divide between the New Zealand waters flowing to the
north, and of the East Branch rivulets descending southerly, is quite
low. It has all been excavated by atmospheric agencies ; since, from
geological reasons, it is clear that Mts. Twin and Tom were once con-
tinuous.

9. Moosilauke and Profile. A narrow gap, 2,000 feet above the ocean,

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TOPOGRAPHY. 1 99

separates the Lafayette from the Profile range at the site of the famed

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" Old Man of the Mountains." On the north is Eagle cliff, too precip-

200

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

itous to be scaled ; while the Profile or Cannon mountain on the south-
west is nearly as steep, and it is absolutely perpendicular a mile southerly.
One of our heliotypes represents this valley, closed, apparently, by Eagle
cliff.

The north end of the range consists of a pile of granite hummocks,
attaining the height of 3,850 feet. A terribly rough valley separates it
from the long range of Mt. Kinsman, which extends to the extreme
south-east corner of Landaff. It is ascended from the village of Landaff,
and the trip is easily made. The relations between the Profile and
Lafayette range may be seen in a view of them from Thornton. Lafay-

Fig- 36. FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS, FROM THORNTON.

ette is the highest peak on the right, and Mt. Flume appears a little lower
down. The deep valley of the Pemigewasset lies in the centre, and Pro-
file on the left. The precipitous character of Profile does not show
advantageously. Only the lower summit of this mountain is generally
visited, the apex being still covered by trees.

Moosilauke is the most south-westerly spur of the White Mountains.
The summit is in the eastern part of Benton ; but Woodstock and Warren

TOPOGRAPHY.

201

O
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VI
t (

r
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w
A
o

own parts of its expanse. The
water-shed continues from it into
Carr's mountain in Warren and
Wentworth; but the saddle be-
tween them is a low one over
which a road to the Pemigewasset
valley has been contemplated.
Two ranges of foot hills border
Moosilauke on the west, first,
the familiar name of " Black
mountain;" second, five peaks,
called respectively, proceeding
northerly from the railroad,
Owl's Head, Blueberry, Hog's
Back, Sugar Loaf, and Black
mountains.* The map shows a

long range, called Blue ridge, on 5

a
o

<
ilauke is said to signify a bald
place. This is one of the finest w
of the White Mountains to visit ^
for scenery, and it is easily ascend- >
ed over the recently constructed w
turnpike road.

10. Pcquazvkct. This is the
smallest of all the areas described.
The predominant mountain is con-
ical in shape, 3,300 feet above the
sea. A house upon the summit
can be seen from every point of
the compass. On the north this peak passes into the north-easterly spur
coming down from the Carter district. On the south a connection is
made with the Green hills, which are elevated granitic piles in the east
part of Conway.

the east flank of Moosilauke in
Woodstock. The name of Moos-

* This makes two Black mountains in the same town.
VOL. I. 28

202

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Maps and Profiles. In the atlas accompanying this report will be
found a large representation of all these White Mountain districts. The
shapes of the several ranges and peaks are given as truthfully as is pos-
sible upon the model which served as the basis of the photograph. For

Fig. 38. M00SILAUKE, FROM WACHIPAUCHA POND.

more minute information concerning the topography of this region, the
reader is referred to this sketch. Many of the features will be referred
to in the descriptions of the formations building up the eminences.

The atlas will also show a large number of mountain profiles taken
from several points of view. The following have been kindly furnished
by Geo. F. Morse, of Portland, Me.: 1. Panorama from Mt. Pequawket.
2. White Mountains, from the "Bill Merrill" hill in Maine. 3. Panorama
from Trafton mountain, Cornish, Me. 4. View of the Carter and Bald-
face mountains in Chatham, Bean's purchase, and vicinity. 5. Profiles, as
seen from Mt. Caribou, Me. 6. Same, from Pleasant mountain. 7. Part
of a panorama from Mt. Carrigain. We hope to add other panoramic
profile views from Mt. Washington, and, possibly, from other prominent
peaks. A greater amount of exact topographical information cannot be
given, except after elaborate surveys, such as have never been contem-
plated by the act authorizing the present explorations.

TOPOGRAPHY. 203

IV. Lake District. This consists largely of the hydrographic basin of
Winnipiseogee lake, with sandy plains carrying tributaries of the Saco.
It is normally a plain with four isolated mountain masses imposed upon
it. These are the Gunstock and Belknap mountains, Red hill, Ossipee
mountains east of the lake, and the Green mountain in Effingham. All
these mountains are composed of igneous material, which seems to have
been poured out over an uneven floor of rocks deposited in the Mont-
alban period.

The Belknap range lies in the towns of Gilford, Gilmanton, and Alton,
on the south-west side of Lake Winnipiseogee, covering an area ten by
four miles, measured along the greatest diameters. From the point oppo-
site Thompson's island in Gilford the ridge gradually rises to the peak
known as Belknap. This is directly connected by a low saddle with the
Mt. Gunstock of the Coast Survey, 1,914 feet high. From Mt. Belknap
a ridge turns south-easterly, and in the extreme north-east corner of Gil-
manton makes a curve, so as to run a few degrees north of east towards
the lake. This so-called spur is really the main range, and it continues
on to Alton, as an essential prolongation of the south-easterly range from
Mt. Belknap. In Alton, Mts. Straight-back, Major, Pine, and Avery hill
are developments of this group. To the south of these there is a gap
low enough for a road from Gilmanton Iron Works to Alton Bay. South-
ward the mountainous area terminates in the easterly running hills known
as Rocky mountain. The principal part of the region is heavily wooded,
save the highest summits, which are practically above trees ; and there
is uncultivated land enough to make a township as large as Brookline.

Red hill received from Dr. Timothy Dwight the name of Mt. Went-
worth, at the beginning of the present century. The mountain area is of
elliptical shape, with two summits, the northern* 2,043, an d the southern
1,769 feet in height. The length is three miles ; the breadth about half as
much. It lies chiefly in Moultonborough, and partly in Sandwich. Owing
to its proximity to Center Harbor, Red hill is much visited by tourists.

The Ossipee mountains occupy the largest of all these mountainous
areas, of oval form, measuring about six by ten miles, and are situated in
the adjacent corners of Moultonborough, Ossipee, Tamworth, and Tufton-

* Called western by Guyot.

204 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

borough. The broadest portion of the area is in Tamworth and Ossipee.
The Bearcamp river washes the northern base of the mountains. Two
of its tributaries have excavated north and south valleys out of the north
slope, leaving an east and west ridge six miles long. This juts out from
near the middle of the main range of about eight miles length, turning
somewhat easterly in Moultonborough and Tuftonborough. The two
most elevated points, called for convenience North and South Ossipee,
lie in the north-south range. Two east flowing streams have excavated
very large valleys out of the eastern flank of these granitic piles, the
first and largest, known as Lovell's river, discharging into Ossipee pond,
and the second, a tributary of Pine river, coming out of Dan Hole pond.
At the upper end of Dan Hole pond is a hamlet known as Canaan.
There is no road to this place from Moulton mills, up the valley of the
outlet, as one would naturally expect, but over the elevated south rim of
the valley from Tuftonborough. The height of the loftiest Ossipee
mountain is estimated at about 2,000 feet. There are no important
streams on the west side of these mountains. The seven brooks which
course down the abrupt slope often produce cascades, but have not made
notable excavations in the edge of the feldspathic mass.

Green mountain in Effingham is four miles long, shaped much like
Red hill, save that the two parts are less deeply notched, and the course
is nearly east-west. It is about one fourth larger in every way, vertically
as well as horizontally.

Except two ranges, the rest of the Lake district is nearly level. The
first lies in Eaton and Madison, including the easterly part of Free-
dom ; the second is a continuation of the Ossipee water-shed through
Wolfeborough into Brookfield and Middleton. Also, about Center Harbor
and Laconia there are isolated hilly knobs.

The sandy plains of Madison, Freedom, and Ossipee are elevated from
400 to 525 feet, extending to North Conway and Bartlett, in the moun-
tain district. The average is nearly that of Lake Winnipiseogee. The
soil is very sandy, much of it being left for the growth of small pines.
Between the Ossipee and the Passaconnaway range the average eleva-
tion of the land may be from 550 to 600 feet, largely in the towns of
Tamworth and Sandwich. In Tamworth, Chatman's, Great, and McDan-
iel's hills are the highest points. The soil is better, and in favorable

TOPOGRAPHY.

205

locations, say along the extensive meadows of the Bearcamp river, there
are many large and profitable farming establishments. An excellent idea

_ . Z . :?-- 7-trj^g\j^J^BpBB^: -_ ; .---..^i^/. 2, . Jj&* ^~'i'-jM '**J*&

Fig. 39. LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE, FROM CENTER HARBOR.

of the country about Lake Winnipiseogee may be derived from a view of
it given in Fig. 40. The observer looks from the east flank of Sunset
hill, back from Center Harbor landing. The highest peak on the extreme
right is Mt. Gunstock ; the highest on the extreme left is the southern
edge of Ossipee ; those in the distance on the left bound this district
in Alton, New Durham, and Middleton. The borders of the lake are
usually of hard pan, sloping gradually to the water's edge. The general
course of the basin is S. 25 to 30 E., the islands and points showing
essentially the same trend. This direction is determined by the corre-
sponding courses, parallel to each other, of the Gunstock and Ossipee

ranges.

V. The Merrimack Valley District. This includes more than the
hydrographic basin on the west, and less on the north. It is bounded by

206 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

the White Mountains on the north, extending as far as Woodstock in the
valley ; on the north-east by the Lake district, which extends close to the
Pemigewasset in Ashland ; on the east by the coast slope ; slightly on the
south-east and entirely on the south by Massachusetts ; on the west by
the Connecticut valley district, or, more exactly, the eastern boundary of
the Coos quartzite. It may well represent the average physical appear-
ance of New Hampshire, consisting of numerous hills and mountains,
mostly cultivable, interspersed with sandy plains, alluvial flats, and entirely
underlaid by gneissic or granitic rocks. It is much the largest of the
topographical districts. There are only two marked topographical divi-
sions of this tract, the double mountainous range along the western
borders, and the Merrimack valley.

The more western of the two ranges along the western border has been
referred to in the description of the first district. More particularly, it
may be said to follow the line of division between the two districts. It
commences in the east part of Piermont as Iron and Piermont mountains.
It is the Cuba mountain range in Orford, Smart's mountain in Lyme,
Moose mountain in Hanover, Grantham and Croydon mountains between
Plainfield and Newport, Perry's mountain between Charlestown and Unity.
It is wanting in much of Charlestown, Langdon, and the neighborhood
of Bellows Falls. Between Walpole and Hinsdale there is a series of
hills, mostly unnamed, which mark the line, though some of them are
covered by slate.

From Warren to Plymouth, Baker's river has cut through the range
transversely. Webster Slide and Mist mountains are continuous with
Iron mountain. The valley between the two ranges commences east of
Piermont mountain, bordered easterly by Ore hill, Warren, the water
flowing northerly. In the same depression Pond brook rises, flowing to
the south-east to join Baker's river. Other tributaries flow in the same
direction in Wentworth. The depression is again markedly manifest in
Dorchester, having Smart's mountain range on the west, and the Groton
hills on the east. It is more pronounced still in Canaan, Enfield, and the
east part of Hanover. The quartz range is broken first in Lyme, and
more markedly by the outlet of Mascomy lake in East Lebanon. The
lowland water-shed between the Mascomy and Sugar rivers lies in the
swampy district near the south line of Enfield. The Croydon range

TOPOGRAPHY. 207

borders the valley to Claremont, where the erosion is more observable
than at East Lebanon, allowing Sugar river to pass into Claremont. This
river is further remarkable, since it cuts the main range, also draining a
large area east of Sunapee, which would more naturally flow into the
Merrimack.

From Newport the valley between the parallel ranges passes more
easterly into Goshen and Lempster, rising in the swamps near Dodge
pond, the source of the tributaries of Cold river, which courses southerly
through Acworth, Langdon, and the corners of Alstead and Walpole.
North Unity and North Acworth possess water-sheds parallel to each
other and running easterly, having Little Sugar river between them.
There are no notable hills on either side, though the land is high. This
irregularity is induced by the rising up of older earth-masses in Kilburn
Peak, near Bellows Falls.

The valley is next continuous in the Ashuelot basin. The north rim
lies between Paper Mill Village and Alstead Centre. The ridge in Mar-
low, where the old and new Forest roads unite, is 1,328 feet high, along
the line of a railroad survey. Just north of the Ashuelot valley, near
Alstead village, the ridge is lower, estimated to be about 900 feet. In
Surry the valley is narrow and deep. In Keene it spreads out widely,
the level at the railroad being 482 feet. It narrows in passing into
Swanzey, but is constantly deepening. At Winchester the river turns
into Hinsdale, across a very ancient ridge ; but the valley continues into
Massachusetts in a direct southerly course.

Principal Range. The main water-shed of the state is the eastern
part of this double range. Leaving the White Mountain district in
Moosilauke, it starts up again in the high Kinneo and Carr's mountains,
running down through Wentworth and Rumney, ending in Rattlesnake
mountain, till cut across by Baker's river.

Warren occupies an elevated position between the two great ranges.
The general shape of the land is that of a basin, with notched edges.
Just to the north the immense mass of Moosilauke makes a third side to
the depression, while the narrowness of the Owl's Head pass nearly
closes up the valley on the north-west. The map of Warren annexed,
kindly loaned by William Little, of Manchester, an early friend of the
survey, and author of a history of Warren, shows better than words the

208

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

topographical features of the town, with its ancient and modern artificial
limits.

Fig. 40. MAP OF WARREN.

Our main range rapidly recovers itself in the highlands of Groton, and
Mt. Cardigan in Orange. The next low point is at the summit of the
Northern Railroad. Next, we find, in Grafton, Isinglass mountain and
Prescott hill. In Springfield the range is continuous in Aaron's ledges,
Shad, Stevens's, Col. Sanborn, Hoyt, Sanborn, and Hog hills, besides
others not mentioned on the map. The continuity is interrupted by the
basin of Sunapee lake. Directly to the south are the Sunapee moun-
tains, along the line between Newbury and Goshen. These connect
directly with Kittredge, Jones, Taylor, and Ames hills, and Mt. Lovell in
Washington. At the village the range is cut through by streams flowing
south-easterly; but the ridge is continuous from Oak hill to Stoddard,
the west part of Nelson, and so on to Mt. Monadnock.

TOPOGRAPHY. 200,

Mt. Monadnock is usually described as an isolated peak rising out of a
plateau, having the altitude of 3,186 feet; while the plain will average
from 1,000 to 1,200 feet, including the towns of Jaffrey, Sharon, Fitzwil-
liam, New Ipswich, and others. While this is generally correct, it should
be modified so that it be understood to be part of the principal backbone
of the state, and the culminating peak of the southern part of the range.
There are geological reasons for explaining its isolated position, which
will be mentioned hereafter. The Pack Monadnock range is really a part
of the Monadnock group. The Contoocook river, with its Harrisville
branch, has excavated a deep channel through the Monadnock plateau,
sinking northerly. Consequently there are left high hills to the west, as
in Nelson and Hancock, Bald, Willard, and Robb mountains in Antrim,
etc. On the east is the more important range of hills in the west part
of Deering, Crotchet mountain in Francestown, Pinnacle mountain in
Lyndeborough, Pack Monadnock in Peterborough and Temple, Temple,
Kidder, and Barrett's mountains in Temple and New Ipswich. This is
now the main range, having come from a direction east of north to join
the Monadnock water-shed. It continues southerly into Massachusetts,
viz., Watatic mountain in Ashburnham, Wachusett, 2,018 feet, in Prince-
ton ; and so on southerly through the central part of the state. The
White Mountain range, therefore, when correctly followed, does not
pass into the Connecticut valley Trap mountains, as maintained by some
authors.

Heights along the Principal Watershed of New Hampshire. The
main water-shed of New Hampshire runs nearly parallel to Connecticut
river, and in fact forms the eastern rim of that hydrographic basin.
It is of special importance to one studying the topography of the state,
and for that reason is given here as fully as possible.

From near the north corner of the state to Mt. Washington, this line
skirts the Androscoggin basin. It borders the Saco waters only from
Mt. Washington to Mt. Field. From here to Massachusetts the line
agrees with the west border of the Merrimack system. The line may be
divided into three sections : First, averaging 2,000 feet elevation to the
base of Mt. Madison. Second, the White Mountain division from Madi-
son to Moosilauke, averaging nearly 4,000 feet. Third, the portion from
Warren to Massachusetts, averaging about 1,500 feet. The lowest point
vol. 1. 29

2IO

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

in the northern section is at the Milan summit on the Grand Trunk Rail-
way, 1,087 f ee t- The lowest point in the White Mountain line is at the
notch, 1,914 feet. The Franconia notch is nearly the same, being 2,014
feet. The lowest point in the entire line is at the Orange summit of the
Northern Railroad, 990 feet. The next lowest point is at Warren, 1,063
feet. It is followed by the railroad cut at Milan, 1,087, an d a t Newbury,
1,161 feet, for the natural surface of the ground. Two projected railway
lines cross the southern section, with the height of 1,560 feet in Stod-
dard, and of 1,265 at Harrisville.

Feet.

Ridge between Lake Magalloway
and Third lake,

Mt. Abbott (Kent), estimated

Mt. Carmel,

Two miles south of Second lake

Magalloway mountain (est.),

Ridge (est.),

Mt. Pisgah,

Near Diamond ponds, Stewarts
town, ....

Dixville notch, .

Table rock,

Peak in Erving's Location, .

Divide between Nash and Sims
streams, ....

Milan summit, G. T. R.,

Pond of Safety, Randolph,

Randolph mountain, Randolph,

Divide between Moose and Israel's
rivers, Randolph, .

Mt. Madison, ....

Gap between Madison and Adams,

Mt. Adams, ....

Gap between Adams and Jeffer-
son, .

Mt. Jefferson, ....

Gap between Jefferson and Clay,

Mt. Clay,

Gap between Clay and Washing-
ton, .....

Mt. Washington,

Feet.

Gap between Washington

and

2917

Monroe, .

5100

2800

Lake of the Clouds, .

5009

3711

Mt. Monroe,

5334

2030

Little Monroe,W.S.W. of Monroe,

5204

2600

Mt. Franklin,

4904

2500

Gap between Franklin and Pleas-

2897

ant,

4400

Mt. Pleasant,

4764

1723

Gap between Pleasant and Clinton,

4050

1858

Mt. Clinton,

4320

2454

Mt. Jackson,

4100

3156

Mt. Webster,

4000

White Mountain notch,

1914

1715

Mt. Willard (est.), .

2570

1087

Mt. Field, .

4070

1973

Divide between East Branch and

3043

New Zealand river, .

2123

Twin mountain, .

4920

1446

Gap (est.),

3000

5365

Haystack, .

4500

4912

Mt. Lafayette, .

5259

5794

Franconia notch,

2014

Profile mountain,

3850

4939

Valley (est.),

2850

57H

Mt. Kinsman,

4200

4979

Mt. Blue, .

437o

5553

Woodstock notch (est.),
Moosilauke,

1655
481 1

5417

Oliverian notch, B. C. & M

R.,

1063

6293

Webster Slide mountain, Warren,

2210

TOPOGRAPHY.

211

Feet.

Road over Ore hill, Warren, . 1542

Piermont mount., Piermont (est.), 2500
Water-shed south-east of Indian

pond, Orford, .... 1100

Mt. Cuba, Orford, . . . 2927
Gap between Rocky pond, Went-

worth, and Quinttown, Orford

(est.) 1438

Smart's mountain, Dorchester

(est.), 2500

Dorchester valley, lowest point

(est.), 1250

Ridge east of Dorchester, Canaan

valley, 2137

Divide in road from Orange to

Groton (est.), . . . 1600

Hoyt hill, Orange (est.), . . 1700

Orange summit, N. R. R., . . 990

Ford Hill, Grafton, . . . 1800

Prescott hill, Grafton (est.), . 1700

Aaron's ledge, Springfield (est.), 1800
Divide in road from Springfield

to Grafton (est.), . . . 1600

High land to the south-east (est.) , 1750

Feet.

Divide in road near Mud pond,

Springfield, .... 1383
Col. Sanborn hill (est.), . . 1600
Divide between Little Sunapee
and Pleasant pond, New Lon-
don (est.), .... 1300
New London, .... 1355
Between New London and Suna-
pee lake, lowest point, . . 1200
N. W. corner of Sutton (est.), 1700
Chalk pond divide, Newbury (est.), 1260
Railroad cut, Newbury summit, . 1 130
Ground above railroad cut, . . 1181
Lowest natural ground 400 feet

south of summit, . . . 1161

Sunapee mountain, . . . 2683

Ridge west of Washington vill., 1463

Summit on Forest road survey, . 1560

Stoddard, Coast Survey station, 2170

Harrisville, railroad summit level, 1265

Mt. Monadnock, . . . 3189

Kidder mountain, . . . 1492

Barretfs mountain, . . . 1847

Ashburnham summit, . . 1084

Other Elevated Areas. There are several important hilly areas in the
Merrimack basin, immediately adjoining the range just described. The
first is a hilly area in New Hampton and Sanbornton, consisting of
Burleigh, Hersey, and Sanbornton mountains on the east side of the
Pemigewasset. Next are the Ragged mountains of Andover and Hill.
Separated from these by the Blackwater river are the Kearsarge moun-
tains in Warner, Wilmot, and Salisbury, the most important of all the
groups. Kearsarge resembles Monadnock in form, general features, and
geological structure. Smaller areas worthy of notice are the dying out
of the Ragged mountain range, with a southerly instead of easterly trend,
in Franklin and Boscawen ; the Sutton hills, perhaps a continuation of
Kearsarge ; an unnamed area in Bradford and Hillsborough, Mink hills in
Warner, Craney hill in Henniker, with eminences in North Weare ; the
Dunbarton heights, the Uncanoonucs of Goffstown, Joe English hill in

212 PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

New Boston, Lyndeborough mountains, the hilly area of south-west
Lyndeborongh and Mt. Wilton, and the Rattlesnake hill granitic range of
Concord. Perhaps the hilly character of Mt. Vernon, Amherst, Mason,
and other localities may be worthy of notice.

On the east side of the Merrimack are several hilly groups, as Bean
hill, Northfield, spreading into Canterbury on the south and into Gilman-
ton on the east ; the somewhat isolated peaks of Grant, Bradford, and
Cogswell hills, in the east part of Gilmanton ; scattered summits in south-
west Gilmanton and eastern Loudon, Catamount mountains in Pittsfield,
Brush hill, McKoy's Fort, and Nottingham mountains in Epsom, with
high land in the west part of Deerfield. Farther south the elevations
are of less consequence. There is high land in Allenstown, extending in
a range to Hooksett, and terminating in Campbell's hill near the Merri-
mack. There are minor ridges following the course of the two bands of
quartzite, referred to on p. 50. The Manchester ridge runs a little east
of north into the west part of Auburn and Candia, connecting with the
abandoned railroad summit at Rowe's Corner, and the Allenstown range
beyond. We can also trace an important ridge from Candia through
Auburn, Chester, Derry East, and Windham, lying between Corbett's
and Policy ponds just before entering Massachusetts.

The Lozvland Country. There are no swamps nor low meadows of any
consequence anywhere along the Merrimack river. The clay banks,
when present, are usually high up, covered by sand. The high sandy
plains commence in New Hampton. Here they are undulating and nar-
row. At Bristol they are cut off, and there is no correctness in Dr.
Jackson's map, representing the great bend opposite Bristol as composed
of drift. They skirt both sides of the river in Sanbornton, Tilton, Hill,
and Franklin. In Northfield, Canterbury, Boscawen, and Concord we
find the most extensive development of the elevated sandy plains. In
the east part of Concord the plain is about one hundred and twenty-five
feet above the river, and two miles wide. The plains are contracted to a
line at Hooksett, widening in the south part of the town. The Piscata-
quog river develops this sandy plain several miles back into Bedford and
Goffstown, from Manchester. Litchfield is chiefly a sandy plain. Merri-
mack, Amherst, Nashua, and Hudson possess large areas of the same,
but the land so far down the river is everywhere low, and is mostly

WSk.

TOPOGRAPHY. 21 3

covered by hard pan, which has somewhat of a sandy character, and ought
not to be confounded with the elevated plain above, for geological reasons.
Every large tributary below Manchester, as the Souhegan and Nashua
rivers, enlarges the bounds of the lowland, causing it to wind back among
the border hills for many miles.

The valley of the Merrimack below Nashua in Massachusetts, in gen-
eral terms, may be said to agree exactly with its physical features in New
Hampshire below Manchester.

VI. Coast Slope. This greatly resembles the lower Merrimack country.
It starts from the mountainous ridge bordering the Lake district on the
south, and is bounded westerly by the Merrimack river basin. The
northerly boundary consists of the following eminences, running in an
easterly direction: Mt. Bet, Mt. Holly, Cropple Crown mountain, and
Birch hill, with the Rattlesnake mountains for foot hills in New Durham ;
the Great Moose, Bald, Hall, and Parker's mountains in Middleton. The
range is cut through by Fellows's branch of the Salmon Falls river in
Wakefield (Union Village); and the hills to the east, in Milton, are low.

In general, it may be stated that the entire northerly and westerly bor-
ders of this district, as represented upon the map, are the lines of highest
elevation, or the rim-edge of a basin, which slopes gently to