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REV. GEORGE BROVVN, D,D.

X^rouj/\, Qry^^rt

'r-

GEORGE BROWN, D.D.

PIONEER-MISSIONARY AND EXPLORER
AN AUTOBIOGRAPHY

A NARRATIVE OF FORTY-EIGHT YEARS' RESIDENCE
AND TRAVEL IN SAMOA, NEW BRITAIN, NEW
IRELAND, NEW GUINEA, AND THE SOLOMON ISLANDS

WITH ONE HUNDRED AND ELEVEN ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP

HODDER AND STOUGHTON
LONDON MCMVIII

"An honest tale speeds best, being plainly told."

Richard III., Act IV., Sc. 4

•«m v KtHty, U., London and AyUsbury.

TO MY WIFE

PREFACE

I HAVE written this account of my life very unwillingly, in
deference to the oft-repeated wishes of my many friends and
of the Conference to which I belong. I have endeavoured,
however, to make it in some measure a history of the principal
events in the Mission Districts with which I have been more
immediately connected. My difficulty has been to condense
the account into reasonable limits, and in doing this I have
had to omit some details which might not interest the general
reader, as well as particulars of the manners and customs, folk-
lore, and other matters of interest to students of anthropology
and ethnology. These, however, I hope to be able to give
in a separate volume in the not distant future.

Descriptions of several collections and specimens of natural
history which I forwarded to England will be found in the
Proceedings of the Zoological Society of London for the years
1877 to 1881.

CONTENTS

PA6B

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 3

II
SAMOA 29

III
NEW BRITAIN 69

IV
PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN AND NEW IRELAND . I05

V
SOME INCIDENTS 1/9

A FURLOUGH, AND SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE

IN NEW BRITAIN 219

vii

viii CONTENTS

VII

TROUBLOUS DAYS, AND A BRIGHTER MORNING . . 299

VIII
THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE IN NEW BRITAIN

IX
TONGAN AFFAIRS

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA .

SOLOMON ISLANDS, FIJI— AND EVENTIDE

3*3

417

4^5

515

ILLUSTRATIONS

RXV. GEORGE BROWN. D.D FronHspUu

SAMOA

MCnO PAOB

MISSION HOUSE AT SATXn>AITEA, SAMOA 30

LARGE STONE CHURCH AT SATUPAITEA, SAMOA .... 32

NATIVE BRIDGE AT SAPUNE 34

NATIVE BRIDGE AT APIA 36

INTERIOR OF CHURCH, MANONO, BUILT BY SAMOANS . . .38

GREAT FEAST, SATUPAITEA, AT OPENING OF NEW CHURCH . . 4O

A SAMOAN LADY OF RANK WEARING THE TUINGA, AN ORNAMENTED

HEAD-DRESS MADE OF HUMAN HAIR 43

A SAMOAN Ttn^AFALE (ORATOR) 44

The staff and fly-wUak an the Insigiiia of hla office.

A SAMOAN ORATOR AND THREE GIRLS 46

A VILLAGE TEACHER AND SCHOOL 48

A Study of Facet.

THREE SAMOAN GIRLS 5O

TWO SAMOAN WARRIORS IN FULL COSTUME .... $2

TULAFALES AND HEADS OF FAMILIES, WHO HAVE BROUGHT A

PRESENT OF FOOD TO VISITORS 54

WOMEN AND GIRLS BRINGING PRESENT OF FOOD TO VISITORS . 56

MIXING THE AVA (KAVA). A CEREMONIAL DRINK ... 58

THREE YOUNG WOMEN, SAMOA 60

A SAMOAN YOUNG WOMAN 62

R. L. STEVENSON'S HOUSE, VAILIMA 64

NEW BRITAIN

OUR FIRST HOUSE AT PORT HUNTER 70

MISSION HOUSE, PORT HUNTER 80

CHURCH AT MATUPIT 88

Photo taken Jnat after the tM4>ti«m of nioety-flve oonverta.

MEMBERS OF DUKDUK, A SECRET SOCIETY 96

A TYPICAL NEW BRITAIN VILLAGE IO6

ILLUSTRATIONS

HOMO PAOS
THREE NATIVES Il6

The one tn the centre U • prominent member (or master) of a Secret Society
called Inlat.

PROFILE VIEW OF TWO OF THE ABOVE Il6

A NATIVE OF THE SOUTH END OF NEW BRITAIN . . .128

In Uiat diitiict the sides of the bead ore oomprcsKd in tnfuicy to etoognte it.

MASKED "spirit DANCERS" 1^4

Note the carved snakes on top ol masks. (Photo by Rev. H. Fdlmann.)

NATIVE DANCE, DUKE OF YORK ISLAND. NEW BRITAIN . . l6o

WOOD CARVINGS AND MASKS. NEW IRELAND . . - • I72

Note the croas-bilted sword on earring.
THE FIRST CHURCH IN NEW BRITAIN AND FIVE OF THE FIRST

CONVERTS 184

WARUWARUM AND THREE OF HIS WIVES 188

The woman with wliile dress Is the one he wished to kill and 000k.
THREE WOOD CARVINGS. NEW IRELAND , . , . . 192

CARVING OF LARGE BIRD CARRYING OFF A CHILD OR MAN. TWO

FISHES APPARENTLY ATTACKING THE BIRD, BIRDS EATING

SNAKES, NEW IRELAND 200

CARVINGS AND MASKS. NEW IRELAND 2o8

The wooden image on the left is from the South Coast of New Guinea.

FIVE HUMAN SKULL MASKS, NEW BRIT.\IN 212

THE ISLAND WHICH WAS UPHEAVED IN I878 (NEAR THE MAINLAND).

THE ISLAND OF MATUPIT NEAR THE VOLCANOES " MOTHER AND

DAUGHTERS " 24O

(Photo by Rev. H. Pdlmann.)
PRESENT APPEARANCE OF CRATER, WHICH WAS FULL OF BOILING

WATER IN 1878. AND FOR SOME YEARS AFTERWARDS . , 244

These two views show vegetation and large cnaiiarina trees on the island.
THE PLACE WHERE THE NATIVE MINISTER AND THREE TEACHERS

WERE KILLED 258

The bodies were cut up under the cocoanut palm on the left. (Photo by

Rev. H. Fellmann.)
METLIK (OR LIKILIKI), WHERE MARQUIS DE RAYS' COLONISTS

LANDED 354

A NUMBER OF MARQUIS DE RAYS' COLONISTS AT LIKILIKI . . 358

MRS. BROWN 3g6

A LAST LOOK AT THE GRAVES OF OUR CHILDREN . . . 406

TONGA

COAST SCENE, TONGATABU 424

LARGE TRILITHON AT MUi 432

Weight of side stones about thlrty-flve tons each, height r? feet, top stone
morticed lutO' side stones. Native name " Koe haaraooga a Maui," the burden
of Maui, one of their deities. No native knows how they were got from the sen to
the middle of the island ; why they were placed there, or who were the men who
erected them. Probably a monument to one of the Tul Tonga, sacred kings of
Tonga, or a gateway to the burial place of some of the sacred kings.

SIDE VIEW OF THE ABOVE, SHOWING MORTICE .... 432

ILLUSTRATIONS

BURIAL PLACE OF OKB OF THE SACRED KINGS OF TONGA
Pour raised t«rracc» buUt ot immense stone* ; grave on top.

TWO TONGAN YOUNG WOMEN

The one on Uie tl^hl was aflcfwards murdered in New Galnea.

TWO TONGAN YOUNG WOMEN ....

TONGAN YOLTJG WOMAN AND CHILD ....

THE LAST PHOTO OF KING GEORGE OF TONGA
Age at the time slnety-two or nlnetr-three years.

FACINO PAOX
. 440

' 444

NEW GUINEA

PORT MORESBY 466

THREE NATIVES, NEW GUINEA, NEAR PORT MORESBY . . . 468

TWO NEW GUINEA GIRLS, PORT MORESBY 47O

HOUSES, KEREPUNU, NEW GUINEA 472

VILLAGE ON ELEVA ISLAND, PORT MORESBY .... 474

MARINE VILLAGE, TUPUSELEI 476

POTTERY-MAKING, PORT MORESBY 476

TWO NEW GUINEA WARRIORS, PORT MORESBY DISTRICT . . 478

VILLAGE OF KADAWAGA (TROBRIANDS GROUP) .... 480

YAM HOUSES, KIRIWINA, NEW GUINEA 482

NATIVES AND AUTHOR AT MURUA, NEW GUINEA . . . 484

SPECIMEN OF HOUSES AND " DECORATION " AT DOBU IN I89O . 486

WOMEN AND GIRLS, DOBU 488

CHIEF GAGANAMOLE AND WIFE, DOBU ..... 490

TWO TYPICAL GIRLS OF DOBU 492

GROUP ON MISSION STATION, DOBU, 1897, SIX YEARS AFTER COM-
MENCEMENT OF THE MISSION 496

CROUP OF NATIVES, NORMANBY ISLAND, NEW GUINEA . . 5OO

KEN AND BOY, FRtEDERICK WILUEMSHAFEN, GERMAN NEW

GUINEA 504

WOMEN AND GIRLS, FRIEDERICK WILHEMSHAFEN, GERMAN NEW

GUINEA 508

FIJI

PART OF THE TOWN OF BAU, FIJI 220

GRAVE OF REV. JOHN HUNT. VIWA, FIJI 224

VIEW OF INTERIOR OF ISLAND NA VITI LEVU, FIJI . . . 232

VIEW IN TOWN OF SOHOSOMO, FIJI 236

THE LATE SIR J. B. THURSTON AND WAWABALAVU, THE CHIEF WHO

MURDERED REV. THOMAS BAKER AND PARTY . . . 252

A FIJIAN " MEKE," A DESCRIPTIVE DANCE IN WAR TIME OR AT

FEASTS 364

ILLUSTRATIONS

rACQta PAOS

AKESA, WIDOW OF JOELI BULtJ 272

A CHIEF OF REWA sSo

FIJIAN GIRLS 288

TWO FIJIAN LADIES OF HIGH RANK 29^

A FIJIAN CHIEF 3O4

(Photo b7 Mr. H. P. M. Berry.)

SOLOMON ISLANDS

NATIVE CANOE, MARAU SOUND, SOLOMON ISLANDS

SACRED HOUSE, SHORTLANDS GROUP. SOLOMON ISLANDS

HOUSE AND ARECA PALMS, RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS

MAN AND WOMAN, RUVIANA. SOLOMON ISLANDS

CANOE HOUSE, RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS

HOUSES, RUVIANA

(Photo by Mr. H. P. M. Bery.)

COAST SCENE. RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS

MIA, A CHIEF OF RUVIANA ....

GUMI, A CHIEF OF RUVIANA

(Photo by Mr. H. P. M. Bmy.)
STONE WHARF AT RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS
A NOTED HEAD-HUNTER. SOLOMON ISLANDS
A MAN OF NEW GEORGIA, SOLOMON ISLANDS
SACRSD IMAGE, SIMBO ISLAND. SOLOMON ISLANDS
SACRED IMAGE. RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS

BOW OF TOMAKO (WAR CANOE ) .

This is Inlaid with pearl shell and ornamented also with iheUt.
STERN OF SAME CANOE, RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS
BURIAL PLACE. RUVIANA. SOLOMON ISLANDS

MAN WITH CLOCK PLACED IN LOBE OF HIS EAR TO SHOW THE SIZE
OF THE ORIFICE. CIRCUMFERENCE OF CLOCK. THIRTEEN

INCHES

LOBE

MAN WITH BOX OF SPARKLET CARTRIDGES PLACED IN THE
OF THE EAR, TO SHOW SIZE OF THE ORIFICE

RETURN OF FLEET OF TOMAKOS (WAR CANOES> FROM AN EX-
PEDITION ......

A WAR CANOE STARTING ON EXPEDITION .

THREE GIRLS OF LUA NIUA, ONTONG JAVA ,

LARGE GENERAL CEMETKRV, LUA NIUA, ONTONG JAVA

ANOTHER VIEW OF CEMETERY. ONTONG JAVA

ANOTHER CEMETERY, LUA NIUA, ONTONG JAVA

" A STUDY IN BLACK AND WHITE "

(Photo by Mr. H. P. M. Berry.)
THE MISSION YACHT, "GEORGE BROWN" .

534

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL

The little quiet town of Barnard Castle, in the county of
Durham, in which I was born, had been the scene of many
stirring events in border history. Many a fierce fight was
fought under the walls of the old castle, which still rears its
ruined walls far above the rushing Tees at the foot of the
cliff on which the castle was built.

As it is the usual thing to say something of a man's ancestry
in writing his life, I may state that the oldest member of our
family on my father's side that I ever knew was his grand-
mother, an old lady at Staindrop, a few miles from Barnard
Castle. She always declared that she could trace her ancestry
in a direct line to Bishop Ridley ; and I may say, in passing,
that when I was home in 1886 and visited Staindrop, I inquired
of the old parish clerk, and he assured me that the lady was
quite correct in her statement. My own grandfathers and
grandmothers I never knew.

My father, George Brown, was left an orphan at thirteen,
and had ever afterwards to depend entirely on his own
exertions. He came to Barnard Castle as an office-boy for
a solicitor, and step by step won for himself a very important
position in the town and county in which his life was passed.
I may be pardoned, perhaps, for giving here a quotation
from a memoir published by the Rev. Brooke Herford. He
says : " The name of George Brown was not only familiar through
all that country side, but was known and regarded with a
rare respect throughout Durham and the whole North Riding*

GEORGE BROWN

and tenderly beloved by many a little ilock of Christian people
in those parts. Though he was a Dissenter, and not only a
Unitarian but a Unitarian who preached in the little chapel
Sunday by Sunday, his townsmen felt that in him they had
lost their ablest man ; his funeral became spontaneously a
public one, and the parish church bells rang muffled peals
during the service."

Of his career his biographer says : " He gradually won
that singular confidence alike of rich and poor, which was
perhaps the most noteworthy thing in his life. And it was
not mere respect for his justice and kindness. He became
known as a man of wide information and great aptitude in
varied kinds of business. His shrewdness and ability in
public affairs, his spirit of high, scrupulous, Christian honour,
his enthusiasm for every good cause, and his tenacious per-
severance in every work he took up, gradually became con-
spicuous to all ; and, though a man of singularly modest and
retiring character, he insensibly came, by the simple gravitation
of natural ability, to occupy a leading place in every movement
affecting the industrial, intellectual, or moral well-being of
his town. He originated the Darlington and Stockton Times,
and was its first editor. He was one of the founders of the
Mechanics' Institute, and for some years he was its secretary.
He was secretary of the South Durham and Lancashire Union
Railway and the Eden Valley Railway, clerk to the Board
of Health, and in his later years was " called ' to the Bar in
the Middle Temple. His services in that capacity were in
constant requisition, and he soon won the reputation of an able
and thoroughly upright lawyer, whilst a small handbook which
he published on a subject which his railway experience had
rendered of special interest to him, Tft^ Law of Common
Carriers, is referred to as an authority. He was a very early
riser. In the winter mornings books were his companions.
He was, as a friend of his has described him to me, ' a devouring
reader ' ; and he appeared never to forget what he read. In
the summer he loved to spend his mornings in the open air,

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 5

reading in the woods, cultivating his love of nature and of
science. He gained an intimate knowledge of every nook
and cranny for many a mile, and became thoroughly skilled
in the botany and geology of the whole district. He once
gave a course of lectures on the 'Wild Flora' of the district,
when he had the flowers collected and arranged on a long
table across the room, and beginning at one end, taking up
the flowers one by one as he came to them, without a note
of writing, and with the whole air of one talking out of the
fullness of a mind that knew and loved them thoroughly, he
described their structure, the functions of their different parts,
and their medicinal or other properties ; and then wandered
off now and then into beautiful digressions about their associa-
tions with poetry and mythology. His solicitude for the
poor was evident, and his efforts to ameliorate their condition
only ceased with his life. No man in the neighbourhood
was so universally consulted ; men of every class looked to
his calm, thoughtful judgment with singular confidence ; and
no man was more ready to afford counsel, even, as was often
the case, at great personal inconvenience.

*' To those who knew him in his beautiful and simple
private life he was still more endearing — a man of deep
religious and happy piety. It was this religious life,
indeed, which was the most interesting feature in his character ;
but I have dwelt so long upon his career as a worker and
citizen, because religion shows the noblest when it appears
as the crowning grace and strength of a life manly, capable,
and active all round. From youth it was conspicuous in him.
He began life as a Methodist, and learned among the associa-
tions of Methodism that outspoken piety and love of the
Scriptures and prayer which characterised him to the end.
He never seemed so happy as when he was conversing on
the great themes of God and Providence, of Christ and His
holy work, and of the hopes and foreshadowings of the heavenly
world. ' At such time,' says one who had spent many an hour
with him thus, ' his whole countenance beamed with light

GEORGE BROWN

his conversation grew unusually animated, and the utterances
of sages, prophets, and poets flowed rapidly from his lips
and mingled with his own earnest and impressive words.'
His reverence for ' The Book ' grew upon him year by year,
and he often expressed his indebtedness to it for many of
his happiest hours, as well as for support In his sorest trials.
But what he loved most of all to dwell upon of late years
was the character of Jesus. In his preaching, as well as in
private conversation, he seemed never tired of dwelling on
the beauty and strengthening power of that marvellous Life ;
and his services in the little chapel were characterised by
an intensely devout and reverential spirit, which those who
met with him there will never forget."

I have given these extracts from a memoir prefixed to a
volume of sermons entitled Words from o Layman's Ministry^
the second edition of which is now out of print. The Rev. J. J.
Taylor, B.A., wrote the preface to the first edition, the Rev.
Brooke Herford, now of Boston, wrote the memoir, and
James Hey wood, Esq., M.A., F.R.S., the preface to the second
edition.

My father, so far as I remember, like the late Rev. Dr.
Martineau, never considered himself a Unitarian in the generally
accepted meaning of the term. His opinions were those
which find their noblest expression in the works of Channing
and Martineau ; but there is little of them to be seen in the
sermons which are published, most, if not all, of which might
be preached in any Methodist pulpit to-day. When I was
home I found that a church called the " Brown Memorial
Church " had been erected by the people to whom he gratui-
tously gave the best years of his life. I preached in our
own Methodist church in the morning, and many of those
who were present attended the service which I conducted
in the memorial church at night.

Of my mother I have no recollections. She died when
I was five years of age. Her father, Mr. William Dixon,
was one of the first and best known members of our Church

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 7

in Barnard Castle. For many years he was class leader and
local preacher, and his grandchildren still occupy prominent
positions in the ranks of our Church workers. He gave one
daughter, Mrs. Buddie, wife of the late Rev. Thomas Buddie
of New Zealand, to the Mission work, which he dearly loved.

I was born on December 7, 1835. I have been told that
I was a very quiet boy ; but amongst my earliest recollections
is one of fiercely attacking a boy who had jeered at my elder
brother on account of a slight deformity, and so excited my
anger. I may have been good when I was little, and of
course I believe the good people who have testified to the
fact ; but I have no recollections myself of being what may
be called a moral boy as I grew up. I had what used to be
reckoned in that little town a good education, in a small private
school, hut I am sure it would be considered wretchedly bad
in these days. The old master had a fad about some new
method of parsing, and we boys were quick enough to see
that so long as we were up in this we could pretty well do
what we liked as regards other branches of education. I left
school knowing very little indeed except about parsing, all of
which I have long since forgotten.

My first entrance into business life was as an assistant
in Dr. C.'s surgery ; but after nearly blowing up the establish-
ment in trying to make hydrogen gas, and afterwards in
preparing some phosphorus fire-bottles, which created a sensation
in the streets, it was considered that I had no special gifts
for the medical profession. Just about that time the Asiatic
cholera was raging in Barnard Castle, I was attacked by
the disease, and had a very narrow escape from death.

On leaving home I was employed in a large chemist's and
bonded store at Sunderland, but failed again to manifest any
special aptitude for the business. I was then apprenticed to a
draper in Hartlepool. In this situation I was often employed
in matters which were not at all connected with the drapery
business proper. We did a great deal of business with the
captains of foreign ships which came to Hartlepool for coals.

GEORGE BROWN

These men often brought over cigars, tobacco, and other
dutiable goods, which were landed as the opportunity offered
without the knowledge of the Customs authorities, and with-
out paying the proper dues to Her Majesty's Government
These men then purchased from us large quantities of mole-
skin and print goods, which they managed to smuggle into
their own country on their return. They often needed help
in landing the goods they brought to England, and the
packages which they bought from us had to be conveyed on
board at night, after the crew had gone to sleep. My em-
ployer seems to have found out that this occupation was far
more congenial to me than standing behind a counter, and
I was generally selected when any assistance was necessary.
I do not think it would be at all profitable for me to give
in detail the transactions in which I took part in those days.

It may be that this kind of life had some effect in con-
firming my desire to go to sea ; at any rate I felt very
strongly the desire to go, and at last determined to do so.
It was somewhat difficult,, as I was properly indentured, and
so must be prepared to take the consequences of being caught
and brought back again. Unfortunately, also, I had little or
no spare cash. At Christmas time, however, in 185 1, I
determined to make a start, and left Hartlepool in company
with my employer, who was under the delusion that I was
about to visit my people at home. He, I imagine, was very
much surprised when I did not return, and I know that he
was specially annoyed with me because I had borrowed ten
shillings from him, to pay my passage to London, and had
got him to call me early in the morning when we both left
I went to Newcastle, and took a steerage passage in the Ci(y of
Hamburg to London. On our way we encountered one of the
fiercest gales that had been known for many years; we were in
imminent danger of foundering, and at least six vessels were
known to have gone down with all hands in near proximity
to us. We managed, however, to get back to Lowestoft Roads,
when the weather moderated. We continued our way to

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 9

•

London^ passing large quantities of wreckage on our way. I
landed in London with no money, and only the clothes that I
had on me when I left Hartlepool. I stayed for two or three
days on board a ship with some lads who had come from
Newcastle to join her, and whose acquaintance I had made
on the voyage. Day after day I tried to find employment ;
but t suppose my clothes showed that I had never been to
sea, and men were not an.xious for the job of breaking in a
new hand.

One day, however, I met a captain who asked me for my
qualifications ; but he did not seem to be very much impressed
by my account of them. At last he asked me if I could cook,
and in desperation I answered, " Yes." " All right," he said,
" turn to " ; and so I went on board a smart schooner called
the Savage, belonging to Penzance. She was one of the
clipper schooners that were engaged in those days in bringing
fruit from the Azores. I remember well the dinner that I had to
cook that day — roast beef, cabbage, and potatoes. I put the
lot on together, but soon found that the cabbage was cooked
long before the beef. So I took it off", and stood it aside
until the beef was done, and then warmed it up again. It
did not improve the cabbage, and the captain and crew vented
their wrath upon the greengrocer who had supplied it. Next
day I knew better, and the greengrocer was re-established in
the captain's good graces. On Saturday evening the captain
gave his orders for Sunday's dinner, and said : " Boy, you
make us a good '.plum-dufT' for to-morrow's dinner." " All
right, sir," I replied ; but I could not then face the job of
making plum duff, and so on Saturday night I cleared. What
they had for dinner on Sunday I do not know.

I next shipped on board a nice barque called the Alice,
bound for Algoa Bay, but not this time as cook. I left that
to another and more qualified individual. Just before we signed
articles I had come back from the City, when the other boy
banded me a card, saying : "There is a longshore cove looking
for you, and he says if you do not go up to his house to-morrow

GEORGE BROWN

morning he will send the police down after you." I took the
card, and found it was from Messrs. E- — — & K^ — — , solicitors, ■
Bloomsbury Square ; and I knew at once that my father's
London agents had found where I was. Next day I went up,

and was shown into the office ; but Mr. E was engaged, and

I had to wait. One of the clerks leant over his desk, ■
and asked if I was Mr, Brown's son, of Barnard Castle ; and
when he found that this was the case, he and his fellow-
clerks began to indulge in what is generally known as chaffing.
I was confidently assured that I should be sent to prison, and
would have to endure some other preliminary punishments.
They succeeded in making me pretty angry, which was just
what they intended to do. They were safe behind the
partition which separated them from the general office, and I
was in the full swing of giving them my opinion of their
conduct, and inviting them to come out of the oflRce one by
one that I might impress it more strongly upon them, when
the door opened, and they subsided at once into apparently

hard-working and attentive clerks. Mr. E told me that I

must go back home ; but I told him that it was no use my
doing so, that 1 had determined to go to sea, and that I was
quite sure it was the best plan for me, and would give the
least trouWe to my father. It ended in my being supplied
with a little cash to purchase a suitable outfit, with my father's
reluctant consent for me to ga A day or two afterwards I
received a letter from my uncle in Sunderland, saying that if I fl
was determined to go he would find a ship for me under the
command of one of his own friends ; and so a few weeks
afterwards I left London in midwinter on board a large East

Indiaman called the Sanlipore, Captain L ■-, chartered by

Her Majesty's Government as a troop-ship.

We had a very long and stormy passage on this my first
voyage. I had no favour shown, and had to do my full
share of work in all weathers. We had new sails, and there
were no double topsails in those days. I well remember being
up with others on the topsail yard for hours as we vainly

I
I

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL ii

tried to handle a new sail frozen and stiff until it was almost
as hard as a board, as we tried to reef it in some of the
fierce gales that were blowing. If anything would have
disgusted a lad with the sea, that voyage from London to
Cork would certainly have done so. At Queenstown we took
on board a regiment for Corfu, which was then a British
protectorate. From Corfu we moved another regiment to
Malta, and whilst in that part I saw a very grand sight
The Mediterranean fleet were all assembled there under
Admiral Dundas, who had his flag on board the Britannia.
They were waiting for orders from England, and whilst we
were there the Admiral received instructions to take up a
station at the Dardanelles, which was one of the first acts
prior to the declaration of the Crimean war. I think there
were no ironclads in those days, and I shall never forget the
sight of such a large number of wooden walls of England
as were gathered together in that port.

From Malta we shifted another regiment to Gibraltar, and
then took on board the 26th Cameronians for North America.
We had a good passage across, and landed all in safety at
Quebec. On the day on which the troops landed there, an
event took place which I believe altered the Avhole course of
my life. We were breaking out the lower hold, to get some
of the cargo which was to be landed with the troops. I was
sent up from the 'tween decks to get a light, and whilst I
was away the ladder had been taken away from the chocks of
the lower deck, and stood upon one of the hatches. The
consequence was that as soon as I stepped on the ladder
it slipped away at the bottom, fell down the hold, and carried
me with it. I fortunately fell across the combings of the
'twcen-deck hatch, and so escaped death ; but my leg was
broken in two places, and I had to be taken ashore at once
to the hospital. The vessel sailed without me, and poor

Captain L , I believe, was lost on his next voyage, with

all hands. Had it not been for the accident at Quebec, I
should in all probability have been amongst the number. I

ft^

GEORGE BROWN

lay for many weeks in the hospital, and I shall always
remember with gratitude the care and attention that I
received there. I still remember making an impression upon
one of the young medical students which I am sure he
remembered for a long time. I had a machine fixed to my
leg to draw and keep the bones apart, and occasionally one of
the surgeons had to tighten this, which, of course, gave me
very great pain. One day, however, the doctors came, ex-
amined the leg, and found everything satisfactory. But after
they left one of the students decided to practise a little on his
own account, and took hold of the key to tighten the machine
up another cog. This I did not approve of, as the doctors
had not themselves ordered it, and I manifested my disapproval
by shooting out the leg that was well full into the young
man's stomach with such force that he was nearly sent on
to a bed on the opposite side of the room. He turned quite
pale, and passed on after the staff; and I noticed afterwards
that he generally gave my bed a wide berth. He most
certainly never again attempted to give me a taste of the
rack !

I felt very sad indeed when I left the Marine Hospital at
Quebec. 1 decided to go off into the backwoods if I could,
and my first stay was at Montreal. As soon as I got there I
went, of course, to the barracks, to see the men whom we had
brought over. They were delighted to meet one of the
Santipore lads again, and I was at once taken into the barracks,
and kept there until I was strong enough to leave. No men
could have been kinder than these men were to me. They
shared their rations with me, and always managed to find a
bed for me somewhere ; and though my being there wjis quite
against the rules, the officers inspecting at night seemed always
to take care not to look in the direction where I was placed.
It was just at this time that what are known as the Gavazzi
Riots took place. Father Gavazzi had been preaching against
Romanism in Montreal, and this had caused some rioting.
The 26th had been called out to suppress the rioters, and on

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 13

one occasion the Mayor gave orders to fire. The men elevated
their muskets as far as possible before firing, but some people
on the top of the hill unfortunately were hit> and there was
much bad feeling excited.

After leaving Montreal I managed to work my way up
on to the Lakes, most of my time being spent on the deck
of a cargo steamer called the Reindeer. For such an old tub
as she was they could not have selected a more inappropriate
name. I have a very distinct recollection of sleeping for
many nights on a lot of nail kegs which formed part of the
cargo on deck, and many times I had to get up to turn over
a keg from which the nails were projecting. However, she
carried us safely up the St. Lawrence, through the canals,
over Lake Ontario and Lake Erie ; and finally I landed
at a port some distance from New London, in Ontario
West. Finding my way to New London, 1 found some
relatives there, by whom I was kindly received. Mr.

D and his wife, who was my mother's eldest sister, had

lived there for some time, and through their influence I
obtained a situation in a large general store. New London
at that time was a very small place, and the district round
was most of it still in a state of nature. The farmers, with
whom our business was principally done, depended on the
winter months for getting their supplies out to their farms,
for there were few made roads in those days, and it was only
when the snow had levelled up the ground that they were
able to get their goods out. During my stay in this place
I had one very narrow escape, and learned a lesson which I
think 1 have never forgotten. In the store in which I was

employed there was another young man called Edwin S ,

who had been there much longer than I had. My education,
however, was somewhat better than his, and I was rapidly
advanced to occupy positions to which he thought himself
fully entitled. In addition to this there were some other
reasons which made him very angry with me. The conse-
quence was that, like foolish young men, we were often

JlteAk

GEORGE BROWN

quarrelling. He was much stronger than I with his hands,
but I had the advantage over him when it came to the use
of hard words. One day I angered him so much that he
came to strike me, and I, in a furious rage, seized hold of a
large knife, and threatened to kill him. A few days after
this we both went out shooting pigeons one morning before
breakfast, and were in a lonely place about six miles from
the town. We only had one gun, and he, after firing it, gave
it to me to shoot. I had loaded the gun, and took aim at a
flock of pigeons, but thinking they were out of range 1 dropped
the piece across my elbow, and was putting the hammer down
when it slipped from my finger and exploded the charge,
which passed within a few inches of my companion's head.
Had he been kiSled I cannot see how I could possibly have
escaped. It was known that I had displaced him from his
position, that we were constantly quarrelling, that I had
threatened to kill him only a day or two before, and that
a boyish love affair had increased the bad feeling between
us. It would have been very difficult indeed to prove that
he had been killed accidentally. We were both very much
upset, and no more shooting was done by us that day.

I might have done very well indeed in this position.
The gentleman I was with pleaded hard with me to stay
with him, and promised that if I would remain twelve months
he would set me up in business in the rising town of Goderich,
on Lake Michigan ; but I felt drawn strongly towards England,
and finally decided to return. I could not possibly give any
good reasons then for that wish, but I have done so many
times since God sent me to the Mission field. I have often
felt the truth of Bushnell's words, that every man's life is a
plan of God, and I feel certain that He brought me back
from Canada to carry out in me His Own loving purposes.

I had a rough experience going home. When I reached
Quebec I found that men were very much needed, as there
were many ships lying there whose crews had deserted them.
I thought it better, therefore, to go home before the mast

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 15

rather than pay for my passage, and so shipped as ordinary

seaman on board a barque called the Olive, of Gloucester. I

selected this vessel because I thought she would make the

longest passage of any vessel in port ; and as the wages were

good, the longer the passage the more money there would be

to draw. However, she disappointed us all in that respect,

for we had strong westerly gales nearly all the way across

the Atlantic. We had a large deck cargo, which soon shifted

in the heavy gales. The vessel shipped large quantities of

water, and we did little or nothing but man the pumps the

whole of every watch. The crew consisted of a set of the

biggest ruffians I have ever sailed with. They were what

arc called "runners," and came from New York to Quebec

simply to get ships to take them home. Mine was the only chest

in the forecastle ; all the rest had what is commonly known

as "a stocking full" of clothes each. The captain was armed,

and I think had to keep his cabin door secured every night

We were glad enough to know one evening that the captain

expected to make the land early in the morning. It was my

morning lookout watch, and when I was relieved at eight

bells (4 a.ra.) I told the man whose watch it was that the

orders were to keep a sharp lookout for land. He appeared

to be very sleepy. I did what I could to rouse him up, but

he Wcis always a useless, careless fellow. Going to my berth,

I laid down without undressing, as 1 felt restless, and my

mind was very busy thinking of the home and friends I had

left some five years before. In about an hour I heard a great

noise on deck, and all hands were called. I was one of the

first out, and, to my amazement and horror, I found that we

were almost ashore on the west side of Lundy Island in the

Bristol Channel. Fortunately for us, there was a strong ebb

tide, which took us out of danger, but no ship, I think, ever

had a narrower escape. There is a good lighthouse on the

island, but we had run almost against the inaccessible cliffs

at the rate of about six knots an hour against a strong tide.

In a few minutes longer we should have struck the rocks

GEORGE BROWN

and drifted off immediately down channel, and in all probability
every one of the crew would have been drowned, or crushed
to death by the floating logs. There were men on board
who had lived a life-time at sea, but were so impressed that
morning that, with a sailor's superstition, they refused all
offers to ship again in any vessel bound for Bristol.

1 was glad to get ashore, and as soon as we were paid
off I started for my old home in the north. I could not,
however, settle down in England, much to my father's sorrow.
I had the choice of several situations, either in one of my
father's offices, or in other establishments to which I could
readily have gone through his influence; but 1 felt very un-
willing to accept any of them. It was a source of wonder
to many why I persisted in my wish to go abroad again,
and I myself could at that time give no satisfactory reason
for it. I can, however, do so now, as 1 firmly believe in the
guiding hand of God. He had something for me to do, though
I knew it not, and He was leading me by a hand which I
did not see. I decided to go to New Zealand, I think simply
because it was the farthest place from England. I would
as readily have decided to go to Central Africa if there
had been any chance of getting there. My father at last
consented, making it a condition, however, that I should go
as a passenger and not as a sailor.

I left London in the ship Duke oj Portland^ in March
1855. Amongst our passengers were Bishop Selwyn, of New
Zealand, Rev. J. C. Patteson, afterwards Bishop of Melanesia,
and Rev. — Carter, another of Bishop Selwyn's clergymen.
I have none but pleasant memories of that voyage, though
life on board an emigrant ship, especially if you were not a
saloon passenger, was very different indeed to what it is in
these days ; but I was young then, and cared little for what
are called the inconveniences of ship-life. During the voyage
I joined a Bible Class conducted by Mr. Patteson, and though
I cannot remember receiving any great spiritual benefit at
that time, I have always been thankful to God that I was

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 17

brought into such close connection with one of the grandest
and best men I have ever known. Bishop Selwyn conducted
a class for learning Maori, which I also joined, and some
of the lessons he gave us then in the proper pronunciation
of native names I have never forgotten.

We landed in Auckland, and, after making inquiries, a
young companion of mine and I started for Onchunga, where
I was told my uncle and aunt, the Rev. T. and Mrs. Buddie,
were living. I well remember one incident of that walk. When
I was leaving England, my father begged of me to give up
the bad habit of smoking, which I had contracted at sea. I
.said then that I was afraid to promise to do so on the voyage,
but that I would do my best if spared to reach New Zealand.
On our way I found that I had neglected to bring tobacco, etci
on shore. I purchased some as we were going up the street,
and smoked as we went along. When about half-way to One-
hunga I was going to smoke again, but just then I remembered
the promise I had given my father, and I threw pipe and
tobacco over the hedge, and decided at once to give it up.

I had a kind and loving welcome from all at the Parsonage,
and it would be simply impossible for me to state all that I owe
to the good man and his loving wife who took such an interest
as they did in the friendless lad from the old home. I soon
found a situation in town, but the home at Onehunga was
always my home. Every holiday was spent there, and invariably
I stayed there from Saturday till Monday each week. The
influence of that Christian home caused me to feel that there
was something wanting in my life, and, under God, I attribute
my conversion to the good impressions received there. I was
not preached to except by the powerful influence of Christly
lives. Day by day I realised more and more that there were
higher things than I had dreamed of, that the life I had lived
was very far from that which I ought to live. 1 realised with
a great sorrow the imperfections and sinfulness of my life.
Every week I experienced the power of sermons which were
never spoken or preached at me. In a short time I felt con-

GEORGE BROWN

strained to meet in class. My first class-leader was the late
Rev. J, H. Fletcher, afterwards Principal of Newington College,
Stannnore, but then Principal and Headmaster of Wesley College,
Auckland. I have never forgotten some of our meetings in
that old college. The class was composed principally of young
men, and I have never met with any man better qualified to deal
with young men than my old leader, whose memory I revere
and love. It is a great pleasure now, in the latter years of my
life, to think of those days in Auckland ; and I often wonder
how it is that the Church-life of to-day seems so diflTerent to
what it was then. I well remember some years ago, in Sydney,
hearing Mr. Fletcher say that he had never known such prayer-
meetings and such week-night meetings as were held in the
old High Street Church in Auckland. We young men never
dreamed of staying away from the Monday prayer-meeting,
and the large schoolroom at the back of the church was always
well filled with an earnest and devout congregation. Often,
too, the congregation at the week-night service was almost as
large as that which gathered in the big church on the Sunday,
The names of the Revs. R. B. hyth, John Whiteley, J. H. Fletcher,
Alexander Rcid, and Isaac Harding are always associated in
my mind with those services, which I so valued and loved.

1 cannot call to mind any particular day on which I first
realised the pardoning love of God. I had long experienced
the throbbings of a new life, new thoughts, new desires, and
a new purpose in life ; and at some special services held in
Auckland, when the Rev. J. Whiteley was in that circuit, I fully
realised my acceptance through faith in the Lord Jesus Christ,
and determined to live in accordance with His will, and to
labour for His sake, that some might be the better for my life,
I became associated with the Young Men's Christian Association,
and afterwards became a local preacher in the Auckland circuit.
In the year 1859 the Rev. Isaac Harding, who was at that time
the superintendent of the Auckland circuit, spoke very earnestly
to me about oflfering for the regular work of the ministry.
Living as I was in the family of one of the old New Zealand

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 19

missionaries, and being associated continually with one of the
grandest missionaries that God ever gave to our Fiji mission,
the Rev, R. B. Lyth, I had often thought of devoting my life
to mission work. Mr. Lyth had often expressed a strong desire
that I should go to Fiji to engage in the work which he loved
so well. When Mr, Harding spoke to me, I told him that I
was willing to offer myself exclusively for foreign mission work,
and that, if accepted, my desire was to go to Fiji.

I cannot give the account of the quarterly meeting at which
I was recommended as a candidate better than by telling the
story as told by Mr. Harding, at a Sydney conference many
years afterwards, when I had returned from the New Britain
mission. He said at that meeting : " Mr. President, I claim
the privilege of saying a few words on this occasion " (the annual
missionary meeting), " because I think that I have done some-
thing for mission-work in my lifetime. I well remember that
many years ago I had a great fight with a quarterly meeting
in another colony. My work, sir, was to convince that quarterly
meeting that my young friend, sitting over in the corner there "
(pointing to me) " was fit to be a missionary. They said he
was not : I said he was ; and so we discussed the point. I only
succeeded in obtaining the recommendation of that quarterly
meeting by a very small majority. Mr. President, do you know
what was the objection which they persistently urged against
my nomination ? They had no objection against his character,
or against his ability as a preacher ; but 1 will give you, in
their own words, the objection which they persistently urged.
They said : ' Mr. Harding, he is a good young man, but he is
such a meek, mild, young lady-like person that we are sure
he has no spirit whatever that would make a missionary. He
is utterly devoid, sir, of any self-assertion, and we, therefore,
do not think that he is fit for the mission-work.'" I need not
say that when Father Harding gave that speech there was
some laughter in old York Street Church ; but I myself have
always thought that the members of the Auckland quarterly
meeting were very good judges of character.

GEORGE BROWN

I was accepted at the conference of i860, being first appointed
to Fiji, as I wished ; but this was changed during the conference
to Samoa, as another missionary had arrived from England,
and it was thought better that he should go on by the first
vessel, whilst I could wait until the second voyage in the end
of the year.

As soon as I received notice in Auckland of my appointment
I began to make preparations for my work. One of the most
important was that of securing a suitable helpmeet in the
great work to which I was appointed. This necessitated a
visit to the mission-station at Waingaroa, where the young
lady was living whom I had long thought to be best qunh"fied
for that position. There were no railways or coaches in that
part of New Zealand in those days, and so I had to make a
long journey of five or six days along the west coast before
I arrived at my destination. I was naturally somewhat anxious
to get there, and on the last day I pushed ahead as long as I
could, and arrived on the shores of Waingaroa harbour some
time after sunset. There was no boat available, and the
distance was certainly too far for any one to attempt to swim ;
and so I had to camp down on the sandy beach almost in
sight of the mission-station. My poor pony shared with his
rider the misery of nothing to eat. The mosquitoes, however,
evidently considered that there was a good feed for them, and
in order to disappoint them I had to dig Avith my hands a
deep hole in the sand, put my saddle in it, and then lie down
myself and cover every part of my body except my head with
sand, whilst the poor horse stood patiently by trying to eat
the tough bush which grew on the beach. However, the longest
night passes, and at early dawn I managed to get a native
canoe, which landed me at the mi ssioii -station. Here I was
fortunate enough to succeed in the important matter for which
the journey was made, and I then prepared to return to
Auckland, intending to come back in a few weeks to be married.
Just, however, as I was strating, a native messenger came from
the Rev. T. Buddie, the Chairman of the District, informing

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 2t

me of the date on which I was to arrive in Sydney, which
was much earlier than we had expected. It was very clear
that there was no time to return to Auckland, and so pre-
parations had to be made for our marriage at once.

I could give, I think, an interesting account of the troubles
I had to get a licence from a magistrate living in a wild, out-
of-the-way place in the bush, and in inducing a gentleman, who
was also intending to be married, to let me have the ring which
he had provided for his own expected wife, but this is not neces-
sary. Let it suffice to say that on August 2, 1 860, 1 was married
to Miss S. L. Wallis, the .second daughter of the veteran mission-
ary, the Rev. James Wallis, of Waingaroa, In this instance the
statement that, " Whoso findeth a wife, findeth a good thing,
and obtaineth favour of the Lord," received a good illustration.

Our honeymoon was as different from the ordinary one in these
days, in some respects, as it is possible to imagine. We had
to swim two horses across the Waingaroa harbour the evening
before we started. Then on the next morning we all crossed
in canoes. The horses were saddled, and in a short time my
dear wife's friends said good-bye to her for many long years,
and we, accompanied and blessed by many prayers, began our
long overland journey to Auckland, Our party consisted of a
young brother of my wife and two Maori lads. My wife rode
one horse, and the other one carried a large number of bundles,
parcels, and boxes, which were all thought to be absolutely
necessar)'', but many of which I often fervently wished had been
sunk in the harbour before we started.

I sometimes think I coutd write a book about that journey.
We travelled over a small narrow bush track, which led us
along the sea coast, with long divergences round the head of
some immense swamp ; and then again through some portions
of dense bush, along which some large mobs of cattle had
been driven a few days previously. In some parts of this
vile road the mud was almost up to our knees, especially
where some great root crossed the track. These roots were
often completely hidden from us by the mud, and only became

Jiiiii

GEORGE BROWN

apparent as we tripped or fell over them, and " fetched up " on
our hands and knees in a deep pool of h'quid mud. We had to
camp out to leeward of a flax bushj or in some dirty native
house, each of the six nights we took on the journey ; and I
need hardly say that the flax bush was by far the cleaner and
more comfortable place. When we reached Waikato Heads I
got a canoe, and proceeded to swim one of the horses across
this wide deep-sea harbour. AH went well until we got about
half way across, when the brute refused to swim another stroke.
I had her head up on the canoe, and I let her go once or twice,
just that she might experience the sensation of drowning ; but
she had evidently made up her mind to drown rather than to
swim. So I had to haul her head on board again, and the
natives who were pulling the canoe had to drag her all the rest
of the way. She was a valuable mare, worth in those days
about ;£'ioo, but during that long pull I often wished that I was
a rich man, and could have let her go, for she was only
shamming after all. When at last I saw the bottom, I did let
her gOj and she sank very quietly until her feet touched the
bottom, when she decided to live a little longer, and so swam to
the beach, from which she quietly regarded us with great
satisfaction. I returned to the other side in the canoe, but we
decided not to risk the other horse. So when we had alt crossed
the harbour we packed the impedimenta on the one horse, and
«ll walked the rest of the way.

Our last night out on the west coast was by far the worst,
as a very furious gale, accompanied with heavy, driving rain,
blew down our little shelter tent, and drenched us most pitilessly,
long before daylight. But space will not permit njy telling the
whole story of the memorable journey. It may have been an
appropriate introduction to the life my wife and I were to live,
but it was certainly not a pleasant picnic, when considered from
one side only. Going and returning, however, it was the bestj
journey I have ever made, and, with the exception of the time I
spent in the canoe at Waikato Heads, I was happy all the time.
We received great kindness from the Maoris along the way, and,

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 23

in fact, the only lack of hospitality we experienced was when
we took shelter in an old deserted Maori whare, and were at
once attacked by thousands of fleas, that absolutely compelled
us to stand shivering on the hill top, turning our backs to the
pitiless driving rain, against which it was not possible to proceed.
However, we got home at last, and were received most lovingly
at Onehunga by those who, ever since my arrival at New
Zealand, had been to me, not uncle, aunt, and cousins, but
father, mother, sisters, and brothers, and who now rejoiced greatly
that the sailor lad whom they had received so kindly some
years ago had been called to the work in which their own life
had been lived, and that he was being accompanied to his life-
work by the daughter of one of their oldest friends and fellow-
labourers.

We left Auckland in the steamer Prince Alfred, on Tuesday,
September 4, i860, and had a quick (for those days) though
stormy run to Sydney of five days and five hours. I had been
reading the beautiful memoir of Richard Williams, one of the
missionary heroes of Captain Allan Gardiner's unfortunate
mission to Tierra del Fuego, and had laid the book on one of the
skylights. I saw a gentleman, Captain Cellum, take it up, and
read a little, and then begin to speak about it to his wife. On
my offering to lend him the book, he told me that he was chief
officer of the Ocean Queen, the vessel which conveyed the party
to Tierra del Fuego. He gave us a very interesting account of
the mission band, and was specially loud in his praise of Dr.
Williams. It will be remembered by those who have read the
pathetic story of the death from starvation of every member of
the party, h©w they went to those inhospitable regions with an
utterly inadequate supply of provisions, depending for their
subsistence on fish which they were not able to catch, and on
birds which they had no ammunition to shoot. Captain Cellum
asked me if there was any mention in the book of the loss of
their powder, and was much distressed when I told him how
fatal that loss had proved. He told me that when the
vessel arrived at San Francisco he was breaking out stores in

^Afita

GEORGE BROWN

one of the stern lockers, and to his surprise and dismay he
discovered the powder which ought to have been sent ashore at
Tierra del Fuego. I have always regarded the memoir of
Richard Williams as one of the best books I have ever read,
and have wondered how we, as Methodists, know so little of
one of the holiest and most devoted missionaries that ever went
to preach to the heathen. Dr. Williams was a medical man,
who had established a most lucrative practice in England. He
was local preacher and class-leader, and though he joined the
Mission which was organised by a member of the Church of
England, he remained an earnest and devoted member of our
Church to the time of his death. His memoir ought to be in
every Sunday School librar>'.

We were kindly received in Sydney, and were much
encouraged when we heard ourselves often commended to God
In the prayers of our many kind friend.^. I was ordained by
Revs. J. Eggleston (president), S. Rabone, S. Ironside, and
T. Adams, in the York Street Church, on Wednesday, September
19; and on the following W^ednesday, September 26, we sailed
in ihc John IVesle)' ior our appointment, and arrived in Tonga
on October 18. The brethren there told me that they had
decided to keep us in the Friendly Islands, instead of going to
Samoa, and they wished me to consent to this arrangement.
I told them, however, that I could do nothing to interfere with
my Conference appointment, and that if they thought that a
change should be made, the chairman himself must take the
responsibility of making it. The end of the matter was that
we went on to our own appointment, and arrived at Samoa on
October 30.

It may, I think, be interesting in these days of steam com-
munication to realise how different the conditions were in those
early days. The captain of the /o/tn Wesley would not approach
the Samoa Islands within five or six miles, and it took several
hours' hard pulling in the boats after the vessel had been sighted
before any one could get on board, in our case Mr. Dyson did
not reach the vessel until nearly dark, and then we and all our

THE EARLY YEARS AND THE CALL 25

goods and chattels were put into the boats far out at sea. We
did not reach the shore until about three o'clock in the morning,
after the crew had been pulling nearly all night in heavily laden
boats and having had to come through a passage which was
very seldom smooth, and often a very dangerous one. As soon
as we were clear of the ship, the vessel was on her way back to
Tonga.

SAMOA

The first Samoan Methodists of whom we have any account
were some natives of Savaii, who visited Tonga in 1828-9, and
during their stay there abandoned heathenism and publicly
professed Christianity. Many other Samoans, who in those
days were constantly visiting the Friendly Islands, had joined
them These returned to their own land, and the work
gradually spread, until, when Rev. P. Turner, the first Wesleyan
minister and the first resident white missionary, landed there in
1835, he found at least 2,000 people on Savaii and Upolu who
were professed adherents of the Methodist Church. On his
first journey this number was increased by about 2,000 more
people. When our missionaries were compelled, by orders from
the Missionary Committee in London, to leave the group in
1839, there were at least 13,000 adherents, of whom 3,000 were
Church members, with 6,000 adults and children attending
the schools.

I do not think it necessary here to enter into details of the
dispute (now, I trust, amicably settled) between the Directors
of a sister Society and our own Australasian Conference with
regard to the resumption of our Mission in 1857. Of the
justice of that action I have never had any doubts, though I
have al\\ays felt that the question as to whether it was
expedient to resume the Mission after the lapse of so many
years might at one time have been fairly questioned, On
calmly considering the matter, however, when far away from
the turmoil of controversy, I feel constrained to say that, in my

GEORGE BROWN

opinion, the action taken by our Conference towards our own
people in Samoa has been, and still is, a benefit to the sister
Society. The Sainoans are in some respects a fickle race, and
are easily induced under some feeling of irritation or annoyance
to take a certain course of action of which in their cooler
moments they may disapprove, but from which their pride
will prevent them withdrawing. The different sects which
have taken root in Samoa abundantly prove that it was not
possible for any one branch of the Church of Christ to unite
the whole people ; and the greatest hindrance to the spread of
Roman Catholicism, Mormonism, Seventh-Day Adventism, etc.,
in Samoa at the present time, is the fact that two of the recog-
nised Evangelical Churches are in the group. The controversy,
which is now, 1 repeat, happily ended, was to us who were in
the field at one time a very painful one, but the position which
I took up was that I was sent to Samoa by the Conference to
take charge of our people in that group, and that it was my
duty to be a loyal servant to the Conference ; and this, I am
thankful to say, I was able to do without lessening in any degree
the hearty and sincere personal friendship which existed between
the missionaries of the sister Society and ourselves.

My Circuit consisted of the whole of the large island of
Savaii. I have had a pretty extensive knowledge of the Pacific,
and I can safely say that, in my opinion, the boating around
the Samoan group is as rough, to say the least of it, as in any
other part ; that the coast contains fewer landing-places to the
mile than any of the islands that I have visited ; and that the
openings through the reef are the most dangerous of any that
I have ever passed through. The circumference of the island,
following the coast line, as we had to do, is between 200 and
300 miles, and there are several stretches of coast from 20 to
30 miles in length on which no landing whatever is possible ; so
that once we left the reef for the open sea the boat was all that
we had to trust to. Each visitation of my Circuit involved
a continuous absence from home of from five to six weeks*
Each District consists of a number of villages, to each of which

SAMOA

a teacher is appointed, one of whom is in the position of cate-
chist They are, in fact, small Circuits, of which the catechist
is superintendent. Once a year, or oftener if necessary, these
teachers and catechists gather to meet the missionary, either
at the home station or at some other appointed place, for
consultation and the consideration of any cases of discipline
affecting them or their position. At another time a large
general meeting of the missionaries, native ministers, catechists,
and teachers of both Circuits is held, at which meeting cases
of discipline and matters of policy and administration affecting
the district as a whole arc dealt with.

The principal work in which I was engaged, apart from my
regular ordinary work, was that of training the most promising
of our young men in a large school at Satupaitea, where I lived.
These young men were brought from all the different sections
of the Circuit, and were educated by that grand old native
minister, Barnabas Ahogalu, and myself, until they were deemed
advanced enough to be drafted off to our Training Institution
at Lufilufi, on Upola

It may be owing to the fact that Samoa was my first
mission station, or that I was received with such kindness by
the people, that I have always considered the Samoans to be
amongst the nicest and most lovable people with whom I have
ever lived. I may say, without egotism, that I was very
popular with the people, and I always feel very thankful that I
still retain their confidence and love. Amongst the causes of
my kindly treatment by the Samoans was the fact that I readily
acquired sufficient of their language to speak and preach to
them. I gave myself ab.solutely to the task of learning the
language ; and as the plans I adopted may be of some use to
others, I will give them briefly. I determined, in the first
instance, never to speak a word in English that I could possibly
speak in Samoan. I took the Samoan Bible and committed to
memory many of the passages with which I was most familiar,
and repeated them aloud. I then wrote out many of the
prayers and petitions in the Old and New Testament, joining

GEORGE BROWN

them together with suitable conjunctions, committed tliem to
memory as far as possible, and used them in public services.
Every morning, after breakfast, I used to go away from the
house, sit down on the side of the road, and wait until some
native came along, who was certain to try to talk to me ; and
I, of course, had to do my best to talk to him in reply. After
a short experience of this kind I took the further step of going
away in a boat for several days, having no one with me that
could speak or understand a single word of English. In three
weeks I conducted prayer-meetings. Then I took the pre-
liminary service when Mr. Dyson preached, and on the eighth
Sunday I took the whole of the service, and began my regular
work amongst the people. In after years I was generally
regarded, both by Europeans and natives, as having a good
knowledge of Samoan ; but I can safely say that I was learning
the language up to the very last week of my residence amongst
the people. The more a man knows of some of these languages
the more he is amazed at the wealth of their vocabulary and
of the numberless niceties of expression which they contain. In
Samoa, as is well known, there are many words of the same
meaning, but which cannot be used indiscriminately ; and the
excellence of a Samoan speaker is in knowing which word to
use in its proper place.

But politeness is speciall)' manifest in their language; and I
have always maintained that the Samoans arc the most polite
people in the world, in their language and in their manners
and customs. The essential condition of polite intercourse in
Samoa, at all events, is that a man shall never brag or boast
about himself, and that he shall always consider the man or
men whom he is addressing as entitled to the utmost respect-
To show this, he always uses words in addressing them which
he would never dream of applying to himself. Perhaps I can
make this more clear by giving a few instances. The Samoan
has at least four words signifying sickness, or to be ill, namely,
" ma'i," which is the common word j "gasegase," which is the
next higher ; then " faatafa " ; and then " pulupulusi." Now>

SAMOA

supposing I was dispensing medicine to the highest chief, I
should ask, " What is your illness ? " using the word " pulu-
pulusi " ; but he would never dream of replying, " My pulu-
pulusi " is so-and-so. He would, on the contrary, use the
lowest term, and would say, " My ma'i " is so-and-so. Again,
I should speak of the wife of a chief of rank as his " masiofo "
(queen) or as "le tamaitai " (lady) ; but if he were speaking of
her he would either use the common word " ava," or would
not even claim a personal right to his own wife, but would
speak of her as " the woman of our family." Once more,
the ordinary word for opinion or wish is "loto," but the
polite word is "finagalo." Supposing the speaker were asking
the person addressed what was his opinion or wish about a
matter, he would say, "What is your finagalo?" But the man
in reply, no matter how high his rank,, would simply say, " My
loto " is so-and-so.

They had a great aversion also to using any word which
they thought should not be mentioned in polite society ; and
if at any time they were compelled by the exigencies of the
case to use such a word, they would always preface it by an
apologetic phrase, " vaeane," which can best be translated by the
words, " saving your presence." If, for instance, a native were
compelled to use the word " pig," he would before doing so
say, " Saving the presence of the gentlemen, saving the presence
of the ladies, and saving the presence of the house in which
we are assembled — pig " ; and this he would do as often as he
was compelled to use the obnoxious word. For other words
which it was thought disrespectful to use, words of entirely
opposite meaning were substituted — as, for instance, firewood
was called " polata," meaning a banana-stem ; and such
things as knife, axe, and many others were described in this
manner.

The people were also very particular on points of etiquette.
It was considered very bad taste to extend the legs when
sitting down, to pass in front of any one sitting, or to walk on
the footpath in front of the chief's house, more especially if any

GEORGE BROWN

visitors were sitting in it. A carpenter would always stop
working when any one passed the house or canoe on which I
he was engaged ; and they, in their turn, would diverge
from the path, with some complimentary phrase in doing
so. Lighted torches were not allowed to be carried past a
chief's house, and umbrellas had to be shut on similar occasions. ■
It was very disrespectful not to speak to those who were
met on the road, and complimentary phrases were always
exchanged on such occasions. I could easily give scores of
instances illustrating the politeness which characterised the
Samoans, even in the older days prior to the introduction of
Christianity ; but I shall have to leave this for some other -
time. I

Soon after our arrival my wife and I were taken to our
station on the large island of Savaii, and there was great joy
amongst the people when the missionaries for whom they had
pleaded were actually located among them. We lived for some
two years in a bamboo-house, with earthen floors, which, though
fairly comfortable in fine weather, afforded very little protection
from heavy night dews, wind, and rain. We soon, however,
prepared to build a suitable mission-house, and for two years,
with considerable intervals of rest, we were engaged in that
work. Coral was burnt for lime in immense ovens ; stones and
coral collected ; large trees cut down far inland and dragged -
to the beach to be sawn into beams and rafters, or used as f
firewood for the ovens. The whole of this work was done by
the natives without any monetary consideration. My part was
to make the frames in which the concrete was afterwards put,
to fix and plumb them in position, and generally to superintend
the whole of the operations. 1 have had a fair experience of I
hard work ; but I certainly never worked harder than I did
during the building of that large house, and it was a great joy ,
to me when the work was accomplished, |

I have described these people as being kind> lovable, and
polite in their intercourse with each other ; but they were
extremely sensitive to what was considered to be an insult,

SAMOA

and were quick to resent it. A proverb often used by them
will illustrate this : " Stones decay, but words never decay,"
meaning, of course, that an insult is never forgotten ; and it
may be safely said that most of the wars which were carried
on for generations between contending districts had their origin
in some word or act which was considered to be an insult by
one of the parties concerned.

When I began my work in Samoa most of the people
were professing Christians, though with many of our people
in the outlying parts of Savaii this was only a profession,
and heathen practices and dances were still carried on by
them. An old chief at Salelavalu, and several of his family,
were the only professed heathens on Savaii. I tried hard
to induce the old man to unite himself with us, but without
effect. He called himself "the king of hell," and was de-
termined to die as he had lived. He still maintained in his
village a sacred tree, which was the only remaining " heathen
temple " in Samoa.

The record of fifteen years' continuous life amongst these
people is full of interest to me as I recall the many boat
journeys around that rough, iron-bound coast ; the exciting times
wc had in entering the dangerous passages which afforded the
only chance of gaining the shore ; the joys and sorrows of
mission-life ; the days of glad exultation when all seemed
prosperous ; and the times of depression we had when we
seemed to be labouring in vain. These, however, cannot be
given in detail here, and I can only select a few incidents and
illustrations of our life and work.

Soon after our house was finished we experienced our first
hurricane, which began on Thursday, January 26, 1865, with
a very heavy gale from the north-east, and with certain in-
dications which the natives told us were the precursors of a
hurricane. We began at once to make preparations for it by
strengthening the roof of our house. On Friday the gale
increased, and all exposed doors and windows had to be pro-
tected. On Saturday we had to lash down the roof and thatch

GEORGE BROWN

with all the ropes we could muster, and then the school-boys
came and covered the whole of the thatch with heavy nut-leaves.
I think one of the most awe-inspiring feelings during a hurricane
is caused by the fearful roar made by the wind, and it is not
at all difficult to understand how people have often described
it as the fancied roar of baffled fiends. When the wind was
at its height the bread-fruit trees were falling in all directions.
One fell about a yard from one of our windows. The nut-leaves
were torn off and blown about like small branches. The tide
was lashed into fury by the wind, and broke over the path,
and in through our garden gate ; and so great was the noise
caused by the storm that we never heard the fall of an immense
tree just behind the house. We were, of course, very anxious
indeed as to whether our house would stand or not ; but we
soon found that we had no cause for fear. About 9 p.m. the
wind suddenly dropped, and the natives immediately predicted
a change ; and they were right In a few minutes it began to
blow in heavy puffs from the .south-west, just the opposite
quarter from that in which it commenced, and it continued to
blow very heavily all the night. One of our neighbours did
a very brave action. There was an immense cocoanut palm
some eighty feet high at the back of our house, which we all
feared might at any moment fall on to the building ; but after
the change of wind it was quite impossible to cut it down
with safety. After several schemes had been discussed and
abandoned, I saw one of the men take a large knife in his
hand and deliberately begin to climb the tree, which was
bending and swaying violently with the force of the gale. He
managed, however, to reach the top, and in a few minutes had
cut away the heavy leaves and nuts, and so removed the only
cause of danger. It was a daring feat, and we were glad when
he was safely down again. The hurricane was also severely
felt in other parts of the group ; and in the harbour of Apia
a large vessel, called the Ahier, was driven from her moorings,
and twelve men and the captain were drowned, only one man
escaping of the whole crew,

SAMOA

One very important part of my work was the visitation of
the outlying parts of my large Circuit, and this I did regularly
at least twice a year. These visits occupied from five to six
or seven weeks, more especially those on which the schools
were examined and the missionary meetings held. We always
impressed upon the people the duty of contributing not only
to the expenses of their own District, but also to the fund
for extending our Missions to the heathen world. Most of
the speakers at the missionary meetings urged this latter duty
and privilege upon their hearers, and many good collection
speeches were made. Certainly they would not sound very
grand if translated, but they were first-class Samoan, and
garnished with as many classical allusions as any one could
wish, however great his taste was for those things ; but he would
first have to study Samoan classics, and then he would find
many a tale quite as absurd, and with quite as much truth in
it, as any of those which amused or frightened the good folk
of days gone by. I will give a few examples which, though
very much condensed, will give some idea of the speeches
made, and also of Samoan oratory and modes of thought

The unpardonable sin in Samoa was to be mean and stingy,
especially as regards the distribution or sharing of food. A
teacher at one of our meetings used this fact with good effect
He told a story of an old couple in an adjoining village,
who in a time of .scarcity had got possession of a nice piece
of tasty shark (rather " gamy," I expect). This they naturally
wished to keep for themselves, and so went and hid themselves,
that they might cat it in peace. An old man, however, got
scent of it — perhaps he was to leeward, in which case his
olfactory nerve would acquaint him with the fact that there
was shark in the neighbourhood, However, to smell it was
with him to desire it, and so he set off" to get a piece to keep
his teeth in working order. The old pair, however, who had
got the prize remained hid, would not answer to his call, and ate
their shark alone. The teacher, in applying his story, likened
the people of the two societies in Samoa to the old couple ;

GEORGE BROWN

the shark was likened to the Word of God, which they possessed
in Samoa, and the blessings resulting from it ; the old roan
was likened to those heathen lands which have heard of the
good things which they enjoyed in Samoa, and wanted to share
in them. But if they gave no collection to help and send the
Gospel to other lands, they were like the old couple who ate
their piece of shark alone, and would not share it with the old '
man who wished to taste it also.

Another speaker, in his exhortation not to give small pieces li
of silver and keep the large ones, told a story of an old woman i
who was sick. The teacher went to visit her. Just then a,j
boy of the family came in with a basketful of nuts, and so;|
the old lady felt compelled to give the teacher one to drink, i
The first one she took up was a nice nut, " niu muamua " (a
nut with the kernel just formed). However, she begrudged
that, or wished it for herself; so she said : " Ah ! that's a bad
nut ; mustn't give a bad nut to the man of God." Then she
took up another equally good. " Ah," she said, " niu samj
again ; that won't do for the man of God." So she tried
again, and that time got an old nut in reality. " Ah," she
said, " this is a nice young nut ; this will do for the servant of
the Lord." So the poor teacher only got the old nut He^
however, knew a good nut as well as the old lady, and told
her so.

This tale told well ; and the burthen of many of the
speeches following was: Don't pass by the niu muamua (good'
nuts, i.e. dollars) and give niu sami (old nuts, i.e. dimes). So
when a man threw in a dollar so as nearly to smash the
plate, " Ah," they said, " that's a niu muamua."

Another man in speaking of the necessity of individual
effort said ; " I will tell you a story 1 have heard about a.
wreck that took place in Papalagi (white man's land). There
was a large vessel wrecked on a bluff, rocky coast. She was
wrecked at night, and no one could render her any help. In
the morning when the people of the town assembled, the sea
was covered with the wTeckage ; but there was no trace of

SAMOA

any of the crew, and the rocks were so steep that no man
unaided could possibly get up them. The people of the town
met together to talk over the matter, and they agreed to go
and look for any of the crew who might have got on shore
in any way. On this being decided, some of the foolish people
began to run off. Just then, one wise old man cried out ;
' Stop ! hear what I have to say. It is good what you propose,
that we should go and look for those poor men and try to
help them, but just consider what good you can possibly do
if you go without anything. My plan is, let every man go
and fetch a rope, the strongest and best he has got, and then
it will be some use our trying ; but without ropes we can do
no good, for the rocks are high and there is no path down.'
This plan was approved by all, and soon every man had his
rope hanging down over different parts of the cliff, just as if
they were fishing. When a man felt nothing at one spot he
let it down at another. At length one man thought he felt a
tug at his rojje just as if a fish had got hold of it. He waited
to make sure ; and the second time there was such a tug
that he could not mistake. So he shouted for help, and men
came and all pulled away until they landed a poor half-dead
man safely on the top of the cliffs. And then they all
rejoiced greatly. Now, that is the story. Listen, and I will
apply it. I liken that poor shipwrecked man at the bottom of
the cliffs to the heathen around us. There are plenty of
islands in these seas, and in Fiji, where the people want the
light but cannot get it. They are crying for help ; they want
life, but they cannot scale the rocks themselves. I liken those
men who are running about without ropes to many of our people
here in this land. They say they have great love to the
heathen, but their love is all in their mouths, and talk won't
draw the man up; we want ropes. I liken those who got
the ropes and went fishing for the men to those who love in
deed and in truth — who not only say they love the heathen,
but give their money, and do all they can to help God's
work and save souls from death. Now listen again. We

riii

GEORGE BROWN

cannot all go to foreign lands, but we can all find ropes
(contribute to the Mission work). Take care that your ropes
are good and strong — ropes that won't break, and then God
will bless us, and many, very many, will be saved."

It would be quite easy to give other instances of the really
excellent addresses I have heard, but I must limit myself to
one more speech, which was delivered by dear old Barnabas
Ahogalu, one of the grandest men I have ever known, and
one of the most devoted workers I have met with. At one of
our missionary meetings he had been reminding his hearers of
the blessings they had received from Christianity, and of the
absolute necessity of their doing their part to spread abroad
the knowledge of Christ's love to all. He finished as follows :
" And now, ye people of ManonOj and you our visitors, listen,
and I'll tell you of a circumstance which happened in my
own family. I have a daughter, and some time ago she came
on a visit to my house. I have nothing to say against my
daughter except this, that she is a very sleepy woman, and
has a baby who is very cross and often cries, especially at
night. Well, so it was that night after night this baby cried,
and the mother's mind was distracted with two contending
wishes: she had love for her child, and didn't like to hear it
cry, but her own desire for sleep was also very great indeed.
So she would just sit up for awhile and try to sing, or rather
mumble out, a song of which the burden was : ' Oh, my child,
alas, my child — oh, my child, alas, my child ' ; and then down
she would go again and try to sleep. But again would that
contrary child cry; and again would we hear the same old
song, and the same old tune: 'Oh, my child, alas, my child';
and then she would snore again. And so it went on night after
night, until at length my mind was grieved, and I determined to
talk about it. At night the child again cried, and again we heard
her commence the same old drone ; but she didn't sleep quite
so soon again that time, for I cried out to her : ' Oh, woman, do
have some love towards us, and try another tune and another
song. Do you think your child's a fool, to be made quiet by

SAMOA 41

such a miserable ditty as you are singing? It only makes
him cry more. Try another tune, woman, if you have any
love for your child, or any thought for us, who also wish to
sleep.' She was startled, and kept silence for awhile, and I
thought : ' Now is she cross because I have scolded her ? '
But it was not so, for in a little time she sang a nice cheerful
song, and patted her child on the back, and spwke lovingly to
it, and the consequence was that we slept in peace. That's
my tale ; now listen to the application. You see my daughter
only wanted awakening, and then she loved her child and
supplied its wants ; and in the same manner I wish to awaken
you to-day. I liken you Manono people to that mother, and I
say that the work of God, and especially the Mission work,
is your child, given to you to tend and love. We who labour
in that work are also your children, and we cry to you — we
cry to tell you of our pain, we cry to tell you of perishing
souls, we cry to tell you that we want help ; and we cannot
give up until you awake and answer us. And how have you
answered us ? Tell me ! How have you answered us ? Why,
lately you have answered our cry with a miserable tune that
you have sung with closed eyes and nodding heads : ' Oh, my
child, alas, my child ' ! as if that would make us quiet. I
know you excuse yourselves with the war, but that won't do
now; the fact is, you must sing another song. We must
have better collections. Nothing short of a hundred dollars
(£20) from this chapel to-day will satisfy us ; you've tried
a fifty-dollar tune, and that didn't do ; now try a hundred-
dollar tune, and if it doesn't stop us altogether we will at all
events be quiet for the present. But I tell you again, 'tis
no use trying again that miserable song : ' Oh, my child,
alas, my child ' ! for it will do no good at all. We will still
cry on."

This speech, to which no translation can do justice, was
well received, and Manono sang another song that day,
and instead of ;^io i+f. given the previous year, they put
;C22 19;. into the plate when "the collection was made."

GEORGE BROWN

I have repeatedly said that the Samoans were, at all events
in my time, a very kind and lovable people ; but it is equally
correct to say that they were a people quick to resent an insult
or injury, and quite ready to fight with their neighbours for what
we would think most trivial causes. Some six years after my
landing I was on a long journey round the island, and had arrived
within twelve or fifteen miles of home when I received a letter
from our native minister Barnabas to inform me that Satupaitea
and Tufu were fighting, and that a man from the latter district
had been killed. He said " The devil is aroused at last, that Satu-
paitea has been awaking so long." This note quite upset all the
plans I had made to visit Upolu; and leaving my boat's crew
behind, for fear they also should be implicated in the quarrel, I
started at once, accompanied by a few teachers, for a long
and rough walk through the bush.

We arrived at Satupaitea some time after dark. The town
seemed deserted, all the men being away at the boundary (the
usual fighting place), whilst the women and children had taken
refuge in the teacher's house. We found that two men were
killed and several others severely wounded. Next day, Thurs-
day, July 1 8, 1866, after dressing some frightful wounds. I
started for Tufu to visit the chiefs of the opposite party. We
sat on the ground outside the house, according to Samoan
custom in such cases. In a few minutes they all assembled, and
we had a long speech from one of the rulers about the grievances
of his party. We replied, and urged them very earnestly to
make peace; but in vain. The next few weeks were spent
by both parties in hoiding meetings and preparing to fight,
but the general opinion was that an amicable arrangement
would be made. On September 1 1 , however, we received infor-
mation that the Tufu people intended to attack our people the
following morning. 1 had a consultation with the native minister
and teachers, and we decided to start to the boundary at
midnight, in the hope tJiat we might yet induce the opposite
party to return. After a long and weary wait in the bush by
our fires the day dawned, and the teachers and Church members

(

■

\ ' ''f%^:

SAMOAN- LADV OF RANK WEARING THE TUINGA, AN OKNAMENTED HEAD-
DRESS MADE OF HLMAN HAIR.

SAMOA 43

from Tufu joined us to help us in our endeavours to make peace.
Soon after this we saw the vanguard of the Tufu troops. I im-
mediately sat down on the ground, surrounded by the teachers
and Church members, and quietly awaited their approach. In
doing this I took advantage of their customs, and of the respect
which they had for me as their missionary. Samoans are very
punctilious about many things ; and though we only stopped the
footpath, and they could easily have passed us by going a few
yards into the bush, not one of them attempted to do so. They
-were afraid, in fact, that they would be unfortunate (malaia)
if they passed by, or, as they would say, " trampled upon " those
who were trying to make peace. On they came, a band of stal-
wart fellows, almost naked, brandishing their guns, spears, and
clubs, leaping and shouting, to the place where we were sitting.
Their bodies were smeared with oil, their hair dressed with
scarlet flowers, and their foreheads bound with frontlets made of
the bright inner shell of the nautilus. It was difficult to recog-
nise the features of those with whom we were acquainted, as
every one had tried to make himself look as hideous as possible.
The chief led the way, dancing up to us, and shouting : " What
is that for ? " " Why are you sitting there ? " " Why do you
stop us ? " He soon settled down, however, and after a few more
leaps, and throwing his hatchet in the air several times, to exhibit
his skill, he sat down. His troop followed his example, and
then talking commenced. We tried to convince them of the folly
and sin of fighting — reminded them of our Lord's words, that
they who forgive not shall not be forgiven, and did all we could
to make peace. The chief answered, and tried to get us to rise
and retire back to the place where the people from another part
were sitting, that we might deliberate together. This, however,
we refused to do, as we knew that if we once rose to our feet
they would rush past us at once, as they were only afraid to
pass the " taofiga," or peace-makers (literally, " the holders back ")
whilst they were sitting. Our object was to keep them there
until the arrival of the ruling town of Safotulafai, as we
quite expected that Falefa would yield to them; and this we

GEORGE BROWN

succeeded in doing. We were wearied out with sitting in the hot
sun, with scarcely any shade, and after the arrival of Safotulafai
I went down into the village. After many speeches, all met
together, and were discussing the matter preparatory to making
peace, when news came that the outlying pickets had met,
and that two of the Satupaitea men were killed. We heard this
just before sunset. I hurried up, and found that it was too true.
All talking was at once given up, for it was felt that any attempts
at mediation just then would be quite useless. Satupaitea
people determined at once to start and bring in the bodies, but
were at last prevailed upon to allow men from a neutral
village to go. They were at first refused, but a second
application was made by another party, and they returned
with the two heads, the bodies having been horribly mutilatcd,
We were all greatly shocked when the head of poor Vaalepu
was brought to his weeping wife. He was a kind, good
fellow, and was one of our principal carpenters in building the
Mission house. The other poor woman was doubly afflicted,
as she was not only the wife of the second murdered man, but
the sister also of Vaalepu. I returned home about 7 p.m.
heartsick, weary, and tired, having been in the bush from
about I a.m.

I had quite forgotten this incident, until many years after-
wards I was walking along the same road with a large number of
Samoans, and one of them pointing to a part of the road asked
me if I remembered the place. I answered : " No ; why should
I remember this ? " " Because it was here that you sat for a
whole day in the sun keeping back the Tufu people when they
came to fight us." And then they told the story in their own
way, saying how they were frightened when the Tufu chiefs first
endeavoured to persuade me to get up and go to a more con-
venient place for a talk, lest I would accede to their request,
as it was only a pretext for getting me to rise, and how
they were again afraid when some of the more aggressive young
men appeared to threaten us with very serious consequences
if we would not rise. They laughed heartily as they related the

SAMOA

ling

incident, but I remember tliat they did not consider it a 1<
matter at the time.

After this incident a period of truce ensued, but there was no
real peace between the parties. Satupaitea had lost two more
men than Tufu. So, according to their ideas, they had two men
" unpaid for," and so long as this was the case they felt humbled
and disgraced. Other causes of quarrel arose, which I need not
detail here, but the consequence was that the adjoining district of
Palauli united with Tufu, and determined to attack Satupaitea.
I did all that I could to prevent the war, as 1 was quite friendly
with all the parties concerned; but my efforts were unavailing,
and in August 1869 the allied forces of PalauH and Tufu took
possession of all the Satupaitea plantations inland, and prepared
to attack the town. August 30 I have entered in my diary
as one of the most eventful days of my mission life in Samoa. I
met the teachers early in the morning, and a party of us went up
into the bush to the attacking party, and had a long talk with
the chiefs and leaders. They were very respectful to us, but per-
sisted in tlieir determination that they would not make peace
until they had, at all events, entered the town in force. This
Satupaitea refused to allow, and as we could not succeed in our
mission we returned to the beach. I fear that 1 then did a very
foolish action — at all events it was one for which I received
the only scolding I ever got from my dear old colleague Barnabas.
I decided to go alone to make another attempt to bring about a
compromise. I went alone, because the teachers were engaged in
keeping back another company on the beach, and also because I
knew that Barnabas would dissuade me from going if he knew of
my intention.

On my way up I passed Asiata, the principal chief of Satu-
paitea, and asked him if he would consent to the proposition
which I was going to make, viz. that they should allow the
enemy to enter one end of the town on condition that they
at once made peace, and engaged not to burn or destroy the
town. 1 thought this would be acceptable to the other party, as
it would constitute them victors without absolutely disgracing

ririb

GEORGE BROWN

their opponents. He said : " Do what you like. I will consent
to anything that you propose." I thanked him, and asked him
to keep the young men quiet until I returned. I then passed
through the vanguard of the Satupaitea troops, who were all
painted and in full fighting costume. As I went along the path
I could not see any signs whatever of the men, as they were all
carefully hidden ; and it was somewhat startling to be confronted
every now and then by one after another of these armed warriors,
who had evidently been taking notice of all my movements. I
spoke to them kindly, and begged them not to precipitate a fight
until my return, and this they promised to do. After I left them
I took great care to make as much noise as possible, to let the
opposing party know that 1 was going as a non-combatant, for I
knew that soon after I left the Satupaitea troops I entered upon
a part of the road which was occupied in full force by their
opponents. I was soon challenged by them, and 1 spoke to
them from time to time as I had done to the Satupaitea
men, and especially urged them not to precipitate the fight until
I returned. This they promised to do ; but I had very good reason
for believing that the proposition which I was about to make,
and which would probably be accepted, was one which did
not commend itself to the young fellows of both parties, who
earnestly desired a fight. At all events I had just stated my
proposition to the rulers of Palauli, and they were considering it
— I believe favourably-^when we were alt startled by a gun fired
about forty or fifty yards behind us. I shall never forget the
startling effect that gun produced on us all. We almost held our
breath until it was answered by another, and then we knew
at once that all mediation was at an end.

At this time I was between the two parties, or rather
between Satupaitea and the advanced troop of Palauli, on one
side, and the main body of Palauli on the other, and in no
little danger of being struck by the bullets fired by both parties.
As there was then no chance of getting down to the beach
again by the road, and it was far from safe to remain where I
was, I had to take to the bush alone, and^ making a good circuit

SAMOA

to keep well clear of bullets, try to find my way out This
I did with a sad heart. The fight was now going on in
earnest, and volley after volley was fired without a moment's
intermission. Not knowing the bush or the road, I got astray,
but at last found my way out on the beach about a mile from
where I left in the morning. The native missionary and the
teachers were glad to see me again, as they had been very
anxious, and two of the poor fellows nearly got shot going up
into the bush to look for me. I made my way home at once,
and found our houses and grounds full of women and children,
and all the old and sick. One boy was brought in wounded, and
others soon followed, so that we were in a great state of
excitement. I was much affected in going out, to find all the
women scattered in groups on the verandahs and the outhouses,
offering up most earnest prayers to God. Poor creatures ! They
wept sore and we wept with them. It was a sorrowful sight.
In one of our outhouses I heard one of our best leaders praying
most fervently, and I longed to go and join them, for God was
there ; but I had work to do.

All that day they fought hard. Towards evening Palauli
had got possession of an end village which was undefended.
This they commenced to burn, and then built walls to fortify it.
By this time, however, the tide fJoweJ, and we soon heard the
drums of the large double-canoe belonging to Satupaitea as she
moved along the beach to dislodge those intruders, She was
well barricaded, and seemed to inspire great dread. As soon as
she got within range, the Palauli people fired volley after volley
at her, but she moved steadily along, and not a shot was fired in
return until she got into a position to rake the ground behind
the walls. We then saw the Palauli men take to their heels,
and the Satupaitea people on shore at once reoccupied the
village. The canoe then moved on further, to the temporary
fort built by Palauli, and there they continued fighting until
dark. There was a good deal of noise, but not much damage
done, as the Palauli people were behind stone walls, and
Satupaitea behind the barricades of their canoe. In the bush

GEORGE BROWN

also the 0ght continued until it was too dark to see one another.
The Satupaitea people fought against great odds, but at night
they were still in nearly full possession of their town. Up to
about 8 p.m. the firing continued. It was then found that a
large number of Satupaitea people had been outflanked, and
were still in the bush, so that there were few left to defend the
village. At that juncture we again entreated Satupaitea to leave
the town, as it was very apparent that any further fighting
would only involve more loss of life. They were unwilling at
first, but afterwards consented. They prepared all their boats
quietly under cover of the double-canoe, which still kept firing
away at anything that moved. After all was ready, one boat
dropped quietly down and took on board all the wounded, with
the old men and boys, leaving the women and children in our
house and grounds. This was soon done, and then the other
men left the walls behind which they had fought, leaving the
Palauli troops to fire away at a deserted position. After this
we had a little peace, and the poor heart-broken creatures who
filled our rooms tried to rest. It was of little use, however, as
every now and again some cause of alarm occurred, and often
just as all was quiet, some loud reports would startle us all, and
fill us with all kinds of conjectures. It was a dreadful night,
and we eagerly welcomed the first signs of day. During the
night most of the men who had been shut up in the bush found
their way out. 1 dressed their wounds, and they went on
board the canoe at once, as they were not safe anywhere
else.

On Saturday, the 31st, the double-canoe moved away, and
very soon afterwards they threw away their barricades and made
sail for Safotulafaij the place to which the other boats had gone.
As soon as they left we went down and told the Palauli and
Tufu people that no one was left to oppose them. I begged, as
a personal favour, that they would not burn the houses which
remained, nor destroy the trees on the beach. This they
consented to do. They also gave us permission to seek for the
killed, and gave up to me the heads of those they had got. In

SAMOA

the afternoon the teachers and I went with the Institution boys
and some women to look for the killed. We went into the
scrub where the fight took place, and soon found traces of the
struggle. The boys carried out those who were found, and we
continued the search until night. It was a dreadful place in
which to fight — a thick bush, full of vines and creepers, and so
stony that it was almost impossible to walk over it. It was a
ghastly sight to see men lying in that gloomy bush, headless
and mutilated. Poor fellows ! we had lived amongst them for
nearly seven years, and were intimate with many of them ; but
there they were, men whom we had seen the previous day in
health and strength, shot down in defending themselves from
what I could not but regard as a most unjust and unprovoked
attack. One man had prayed most earnestly in the prayer meeting
a few hours before he was shot, that God would prevent war or
bloodshed. Another chief had brought me a dollar a few weeks
previously, and asked me to keep it for him against the time of
the missionary meeting. Others were busy making oil for the
missionary meeting, often scraping nuts with their guns by their
side in case of an attack. Another went to bid his teacher good-
bye, and told him with tears that he did not want to fight, but
he could not stand aloof and see his people killed. He was no
coward, as his subsequent actions proved. All these were slain.
We found that there were ten men killed on each side, and
several others severely wounded. The principal chief of Satu-
paitea, with whom I had spoken on my way inland, was shot,
and I saw his head brought in as I passed from the village.

This fight, and the abandonment of the town, necessitated
our removal to Saleaula, on the north-east coast of Savaii,
where I spent some very happy years in the latter portion
of our residence in Samoa. There was a great deal of fighting
both on Savaii and on Upolu subsequent to that about which
I have written ; but I do not think it necessary to give any
account of it, much less to attempt any explanation of the
reasons alleged for it. There are, however, some of their
customs and superstitions connected with war which I may

■Slk

GEORGE BROWN

mention here. When Vaalepu and Tapusoa were killed, as
I have related, their friends went some days afterwards and
spread a piece of siapo (native cloth) over the place where
the bodies had lain. They then oflfered up prayers that the
spirits would have love and come to them. They then waited
until some animal such as a lizard, ant, or beetle, crawled on
to the native cloth. This they at once covered up and brought
down to the beach, and buried it. They thought that the
animal was the embodiment of the spirit of the dead, and
when it was buried the spirit found rest

In commencing a fight in the olden days the Samoans
were extremely polite to each other. When the vanguard of
the two opposing parties first met one called out, " Aiga
matavao " — " You, the eyes of the forest." The other party
at once answered i " Yes," or, " It is I." The other then
called: "Who are you?" If the reply was " Satupaitea,"
and the opposing party wished to fight that village, all was
well, and they passed on to the other observances ; but if
they did not want to fight Satupaitea, but some other village,
the answer was : " Go ye, and seek your appointed guests
(opponents); but where is Sagone? Tell them to come."
Satupaitea would at once return to the main body, and
as soon as they were seen the question would be at once
asked : " Who is wanted ? " and they would reply " Sagone, "
Then these would leap up and start for the boundary to
answer the challenge made to them. After they got there,
they would at once make themselves known, and then one
would walk out unarmed to the opposite party, and taking
a piece of dried ava or kava, from which the ceremonial
drink was made, would give it to the opposing party with
many marks of respect, and using the most polite language,
saying: "This is a piece of kava for you chiefs and warriors
to drink." This was received with thanks and many polite
acknowledgments. The first speaker would then retire, and
at once a chief from the opposing side would walk out and
present a similar piece of kava to the first party, using the

SAMOA

same words and expressions. After this one of the parties
would ask: "When shall we trample the grass?" i.e. "When
shall we fight ? " The others would answer : " It is not becoming
to us to dictate to such renowned chiefs and warriors as
you." The others would reply in much the same terms ;
and so the talk might go on for a long time, until at last
some one might casually observe that the sun appeared to
be getting low. The others would at once take advantage
of this, and would say : " Well, if that is so, let us sleep
to-night, and pray for success, and trample the grass to-
morrow ; it is too late now." The other would then answer :
" Yes." And they would retire, to fight at dawn next morning,
but would sleep in peace that night, as such a truce was
never broken. This sounds like very exaggerated politeness,
but some such ceremony was always observed in the olden
days.

Heralds or messengers were always held sacred in war
A messenger of the land would never go off the path, or
show the usual marks of respect in passing through a village
" or meeting any one on the path. Each land had a name
for its herald or embassy, and this, whether consisting of one
or many, was never called by any other name than that
adopted by the district which it represented. No one, for
instance, would say that a messenger had come with a
command or request from Safotulafai, but simply "The
Tagaloatea" had come; from Satupaitea, "The Vasa " had
come ; from PalauH, " The Taulua" ; from Falefa, " The Laufa" ;
from Manono, " The Maina," etc, etc.

When war was being carried on it was generally accom-
panied by the revival of the old heathen dances, and always
resulted in a great loss to our Church, as large numbers of
our members felt it to be their duty to join in the combat
through feelings of loyalty to their respective districts ; and
under the law which then existed all such forfeited their
membership. I never approved of this regulation, but it was
universally acted upon by all the missionaries.

GEORGE BROWN

We had, however, much to cheer us in the changed life and
character of many of our members. I well remember at one
time, when we were feeling very dispirited at the slow progress
which we thought was being made, being very much en-
couraged at our meeting of teachers by the record given of
the death of one of our oldest workers. I could give many
illustrations of the truth that " Our people die well," but one
must suffice for the present. Siaosi Leasi was one of Mr.
Turner's local preachers, and from the time of his appoint-
ment he remained true to his first love. Through all the
long war and the many temptations to which he was exposed
he bore an unblemished character, respected and loved by
all who knew him. He was a quiet, simple old man, and
never took an active part in any of our meetings ; but his
genuine, earnest piety made itself felt by all. According to
custom, at our united meeting the teacher gave a short account
of his death in these words : " I went to visit Siaosi many
times during his illness. The last time I went he was very
weak, and I said: 'Siaosi, you are very weak now. How do
you feel in the prospect of death?' He said: 'Yes, I'm very
weak indeed, but my heart is strong. My desire is to look
to Jesus. I feel very sorry for you, teacher ; there are so
few left to carry on the work of God, but I cannot deny that
my desire is to go to rest. I look for the resting-place. My
heart is strong yet for the work of God.' I (the teacher)
began to comfort him, but he presently began to comfort
tne, and tell me how sorry he was to go away and leave me
to do all the work alone ; but he wanted rest. He said after
a little while : ' There is not one single thing I doubt about.
I have finished my running." There was not a single word
wrong or uncertain. He said again : ' I shall gain the kingdom
of God. I have the witness of the Holy Spirit to that ; then
I shall gain the end of my running.' He also said to his
wife (a leader): 'Don't cry; don't be troubled on my account.
We shall meet again in the kingdom of God.' I (the teacher)
said to him : ' How will you meet with Maata (his wife) as

SAMOA

your wife again ? ' He said : ' When they shall rise from
the dead they neither marry nor are given in marri^e.' He
called to his family : ' Don't go far away ; I am expecting
the message soon.' His last words to me (the teacher) were :
* Bring me some food for my journey.' He meant for the
teacher to read and pray with him. In the night he began
to arrange his clothes, bedding, etc. His wife woke, and
said to him : ' Siaosi, why do you dress yourself and arrange
your clothes just as if you were going to preach somewhere ? '
He said : ' I am going to heaven now. I shall preach there
to-morrow.' Then he laid himself quietly down, and died."

This was the story as I took it down at the time. Before
he finished there were very few dry eyes in the chapel. We
all knelt down for silent prayer, but the emotion excited by
the story of Siaosi s triumphant death could not be restrained,
and sobs and cries of sorrow and thanksgiving were heard
all over the chapel. It was a very solemn time. Several
engaged in prayer, and many a petition was presented to
God that we might gain more of that faith which enabled
Siaosi to " overcome " and to come off " more than conqueror
through Him that loved us."

It may be readily seen from the above story that the
Samoans were very familiar with their Bible, and that the
Book they studied so much was always regarded by them
as their infallible guide in perplexity and doubt, their strength
in weakness, and their only comfort and joy in the hour of
death. Every missionary can give numberless instances of
the knowledge which the men and women under his care
had of the Word of God. I well remember one instance in
which a young local preacher proved his familiarity with the
Bible, and his ability to quote it to further his own wishes,
in a way which, though satisfactory to his hearers and to
himself, was not considered so satisfactory by some of his
fellow-preacliers. The story necessitates an account of a
very curious fact in natural history, which may well be given
here.

GEORGE BROWN

Satupaitea, where we lived in Samoa, was celebrated
throughout the group as the place in which the largest
quantities of a sea-worm, the scientific name of which is Palolo
viridis, are found. This annelid, as far as I can remember, is
about eight or twelve inches long, and somewhat thicker than
ordinary piping-cord. It is found only on two mornings in
the year, and the time when it will appear and disappear can
be accurately predicted. As a general rule, only a few palolo
arc found on the first day, though occasionally the large quantity
may appear first ; but, as a rule, the large quantity appears on
the second morning. And it is only found on these mornings
for a very limited period, viz. from early dawn to about
seven o'clock, i.e. for about two hours. It then disappears until
the following year, except in some rare instances, when it is
found for the same limited period in the following month after
its first appearance. I kept records of the time, and of the
state of the moon, for some years, with the following result:
that it always appeared on two out of the following three days,
viz. the day before, the day of, and the day after, the last
quarter of the October moon. This worm is regarded as a
great delicacy by the Samoans. At Satupaitea it also brouf^ht
a considerable addition of income to the women of the village,
as they were accustomed to take the cooked bundles of palolo
and exchange them for native cloth or money with the people
of the adjoining villages. The day on which the palolo was
expected was the great gala day of the year. For some days
before this the girls and women prepared sweet-scented
garlands, and replenished their stocks of perfumed cocoanut
oil. The men, on their part, prepared every old canoe and
boat that was available, and even the cripples and the sick
who could by any means manage to reach the beach found a
seat in one of the numerous canoes or boats there. Some of
the members of the mission-house were also generally found
amongst the crowd. We always started for the reef about an
hour before dawn, but even so we found the place filled with
canoes and boats full of merry, laughing natives, young and

SAMOA

old, whose voices we could hear, though we could rarely
distinguish the canoes through the mist and gloom- The whole
of the lagoon was perfumed with the odour of the garlands and
scented oil, which had been lavishly used. As soon as it was
dawn we kept putting our hands down into the warm sea-water,
until by-and-by some of the worms were found hanging to
the fingers, and at once the fun commenced. I cannot hope
to give my readers any idea of the quantities of these annelids,
which literally appeared to cover the whole surface of that part
of the lagoon. We, in our mission-boat, took as many tubs
and buckets as the boat would conveniently hold, and these
were nearly always filled. Many times I have seen the native
canoes so full of these worms that the occupants could not
remain in them, and had themselves to swim the canoes to
land. In about an hour after the first appearance of the worms
they began to break up into small pieces, and then the natives
left them and returned to the shore. I believe that the
explanation of this regular appearance is that the palolo is
propagated by fission, and that each piece becomes impregnated
at this time, and develops into the full-grown palolo during
the year.

I must now explain how the appearance of the palolo is
associated with the matter of the exposition of the Scriptures.
I was sitting in my study one day when a deputation, consisting
of the older men of the village, asked for an interview. When
this was granted they informed me that they had come to ask
what was my count as to the day on which the palolo would
appear. They, of course, had fixed the matter in their usual
way, which, I believe, is by the position of some of the stars
and the state of the moon, but they knew that I had kept count
for some time, and so they wished for my opinion. I told them
at once that the small quantity would probably appear on the
Saturday, and the great bulk on the Sunday, but that there
was, of course, the possibility that this order might be reversed.
They looked at each other, and one of them said mournfully :
" Oh, the pity of it I That is just our opinion also." This

GEORGE BROWN

ended our interview. I had never said anything to them aboi
getting the palolo on Sundays, or otherwise ; but I found
afterwards that our people were strongly tempted that day by
some members of a large journeying party in the village who
belonged to the Roman Catholic Church. They said to our
people: "Who sends the palolo? Does not God send it? If
He sends it on Sunday, does He not intend you to get it on
Sunday ? Come and join our religion, and you can get the
palolo on Sundays, and go to heaven also," A small quantity
of palolo was seen on Saturday, and every man in Satupaitca
knew that if he did not get the palolo on Sunday he would
not taste that great delicacy for at least another twelve months,
and every woman knew that if she did not get it on Sunday
there would be, in addition, a very serious loss of income. I
confess that I had some doubt on Sunday as to the attendance
at the morning service. There was not, however, a single
individual absent. As we were returning from church our
people saw the Roman Catholic visitors actually swimming
their canoes ashore filled almost to the gunwales with
palolos.

Next morning our chiefs and rulers gathered together in
the house in which the visitors were located, in accordance with
the regular Samoan custom to drink kava with them before the
presentation of food by the village. The practice in such cases
is for the villagers to take small portions of food with them ;
the visitors also produce their share, and all eat together. On
this particular morning the visitors* share to the general feast
consisted of a number of dishes of palolo, and these were
distributed as part of the feast Most of our people were
members of the Church, and some of them were office-bearers
These people knew that if it was wrong to get the palolo on
the Sunday, it was equally wrong for them to eat those which
had been caught on the Sunday by other people ; and yet it
was to them a terrible temptation. This was their great
delicacy, and this was the only chance they would have of
getting it. Each man looked longingly at the dish before

SAMOA

him ; each of them was anxious to partake of it, but each one
was looking for some one else to begin. At this critical
moment one of the local preachers spoke as follows : " Chiefs
and friends, I see the difficulty in which we are all placed this
morning, but I wish to tell you what the Apostle Paul says
about it. If you look in his first Epistle to the Church at
Corinth you will find these words : ' ff one of them that believe
not biddeth you to a feast, and ye are disposed to go ; whatso-
ever is set before you, eat, asking no question for conscience*
sake.' " These words were accepted by our Satupaitea people
as a sufficient guarantee for their eating palolo. It showed, at
all events, that the young man had studied the Bible to some
purpose. The matter was brought up at our next Church
meeting, but I had neither the heart nor the wish to do more
than give them what I considered to be a better explanation
of the verse in question. This, however, is only one instance
of many which could be given to show how familiar the
Samoans are with the Bible ; and many more could be given
to show how precious its teachings are to ihem.

Some time after our people at Satupaitea were dispersed
we moved to Saleaula, on the opposite side of the island.
Here we were kindly received by the people, and we spent
some happy years amongst them. During our stay at
Satupaitea I crossed the large island of Savaii, of the interior
of which little or nothing was previously known. We slept
one night at an inland village, the next night on the shores of
a mysterious lake in the centre of the island, about which we
had heard many wonderful stories. The third night we slept
at an inland village on the north coast. The lake in the
interior, called Matau Lano, is, I think, the crater of an old
volcano. The natives told us that it was very deep, in fact
fathomless, in their opinion ; but after bathing I proved the
fallacy of this by having soundings taken, which gave only
two or three fathoms deep. The account of a journey made
by the late Rev, George Pratt, the late Mr. J. C. Williams,

■t^l

GEORGE BROWN

British Consul, and Mr. Reid, and myself, to investigate the
truth of the report that a large extinct crater was situate some
fifteen or twenty miles inland, is interesting in view of the recent
volcanic outbreak in that district At the time we went there
was no trace of any recent active volcanic forces in the island:
there were no hot springs or fumaroles in any part of the
island, though on many parts of the coast, and for some
distance inland, there were large fields of lava, which showed
that there had been extensive flows in years past. The natives,
however, had no traditions of the event, and the fact that certain
districts were described as " le rau," meaning the burnt or the
burning, was the only record of it known. The mountain, we
found, consisted entirely of ashes, up which it was somewhat
difficult to climb. There was no soil on the outside of it, and
the few stunted trees that were growing on some places seemed
to derive nourishment only from decomposed scoria and constant
rain. We did not go down the crater, but walked part of the
way round it It was almost perpendicular on three sides, and
in the bottom there were immense forest trees growing, proving
that it must have been many years since there was any volcano
there. The name is Tutumau, and it is about eight or ten
miles from the inland village of Aopo. It \vas a very great
surprise to me, as to all others acquainted with the group, to
hear of the terrible eruption which took place a short time ago.
So far as I can learn, the new volcano commenced in a deep
valley some distance eastwards of the old crater. It has filled
up the whole of the valley, and covered, to the depth of eight
or ten feet, an immense area of land extending from Le-Ala-
tele to Saleaula. My old house there is now in a well of
solid lava, and any one standing on the lava can look down
into the rooms of our house.

One of the hardest trials we had to bear during our residence
in Samoa was when we had to send away our two eldest girls
to New Zealand for their education. We had long felt that
they ought to be away from the influences of native life, but no
favourable opportunity for their going presented itself until we

SAMOA

heard of a small schooner going to New Zealand, and on which
a lady passenger was travelling. She promised to look after
the girls, and we finally decided to send them. The opportunity
seemed to be a very good one, but, as subsequent events proved,
it was an unfortunate experience for the two girls. After
placing the children on board we very foolishly accompanied
the vessel in our boat some distance outside the harbour, and
had to say good-bye to them at sea. It was indeed a hard
trial to my wife and myself when we turned the boat towards
the beach and saw the two little ones holding out their hands
and crying to us most piteously to come back, and not leave
them by themselves on board. We could only comfort our-
selves with the thought that it was the kindest action for the
children themselves, but it was indeed a hard trial. Instead,
however, of their having a passage of a few days only to New
Zealand, we found afterwards that they were exposed to
continuous gales and bad weather almost from the time of
their leaving port ; that for long periods they were battened
down in the little cabin ; and, in addition to this, the supply of
food on board was almost entirely exhausted. I had fortunately
placed a lot of cocoanuts on board the vessel for the children
to give to their friends when they reached Auckland, and these
were almost the only food which they and the crew had to eat
for some days before they reached VVhangaroa, at the north end
of the North Island, where they took on board some fresh
provisions. They had again a very bad passage from there to
Auckland, but at length arrived there after a long voyage of six
weeks instead of one of about ten days, as we had expected. This
necessity of parting with the children was certainly one of the
greatest trials which missionaries had to endure in those days.

We finally left Samoa towards the end of 1874, after
receiving innumerable proofs from the natives of the affection
which they had for us and of the work which we had been
permitted to do amongst them during so many troublous
years of their history. I have since been privileged to visit the
islands on several occasions, and it has been a great joy to me

iW ^mP

GEORGE BROWN

to meet on those visits so many of my old friends. On one of
these occasions, in 1890, I visited most of the towns and villages
on the north side of Upolu, and also our old station on Savaii.
It was very interesting indeed to Mrs. Brown and myself to
look upon the scenes of our labours after the lapse of so many
years. On Manono we sought out the grave of dear old
Barnabas, one of the noblest men that God ever gave to our
Church, and one of the dearest friends we had in the early days
of our mission life. I could not describe the memories of
bygone days which rushed upon us as we stood at the grave and
read the inscription upon the neat monument which we, who
were his old colleagues and dear friends, had placed to mark
the spot where the remains of a good man were laid. At
Satupaitea we were kindly welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Collier,
and lots of old friends came crowding around us, some of whom
we could easily recogni.se and name, much to their delight. The
dear old place still retained many evidences of the work which
was done in past years. The fine house which we built of solid
stone was in most beautiful order, and, so far as the walls were
concerned, would last for centuries. Mr. Collier lowered the
roof after the hurricane which wrecked it, as the iron roof did
not require the same pitch as thatch, and it was stronger then
than it had been before. The cemented stone wall which we
buik in front of the house was still standing ; and as I looked
at it from Mr. Collier's verandah my thoughts went back to
troublous times, when the house was filled with trembling old
men, women, and children whilst the war was raging in the
bush a little inland, and when we saw, time after time, headless
bodies carried past that low wall amid the wailings of friends
and relations. As we wandered over the grounds almost every
tree and every stone seemed to remind us of incidents in past
years. A fine large and beautiful tamarind tree, which then
overshadowed a large area, was brought by me from Tutuila
as a seed, and planted where it then grew ; a cocoanut tree
that I planted on the day when our first child was born had
stood the tliree hurricanes which blew down so many hundreds

I
I
I

IAmoa

of the trees which once surrounded it ; and on every side there
were reminders of the past. But with much that was pleasant
there was also much to sadden. We missed many old friends,
some of whom we sincerely loved, and with whom we had
laboured and suffered hardship together ; but the visit was to us
and to many of the people a great pleasure. I was much
pleased with the state of the work, and with the beautiful order
in which both the house and mission premises were kept.
Visiting the other towns we received many proofs that we had
not been forgotten by the people amongst whom we had lived
and laboured. I lectured, and showed the New Guinea views,
almost every night. As we were walking through one of the
villages the people pointed with great pride to a nicely kept
public well, which supplied all the families near it with good
water, and told me that it still bore my own name. I had
forgotten all about it, but they reminded me how in digging a
pit in which to burn lime for the house I had seen signs of
water, and how upon my urging them to do so they had set to
work with crowbars and spades, and soon found a plentiful
supply of water, which had never failed them since. They had
built up the sides with large stones, and had passed laws, too, to
compel people to keep it in order ; and clean and nice it was
when we saw it. So our labour was not in vain.

On another of these visits in 1898 I had the great privilege
of opening a large stone church at Satupaitea. This building
is 132 ft. long inside, by a width of 48 ft. 6 in. The walls are
3 ft. in thickness. The church had cost the people of Satu-
paitea about ;6^I400 up to the day of opening, in addition
to their own hard personal labour for many months. The total
debt owing was 32.?., but the collection made at the opening
services amounted to i^ioS, leaving them with a large
balance in hand, which they purposed applying towards
the cost of ceiling the building. Needless to say, there
was a great feast given on that day, one which they intended
to be a record in the history of the group. Nearly all the
bread-fruit trees along the walks throughout the town had

GEORGE BROWN

bunches of ripe bananas hanging upon them, which any one
was at liberty to eat. 809 pigs roasted whole, 2 kegs of beef,
3 bullocks, and 112,940 heads of taro were presented to the
visitors in the "malae" (open space in the town). This was,
of course, in addition to large quantities of food presented by
the people to their visitors in their respective homes. My share
of this feast was 10 large pigs, 1,000 head of taro and other
vegetables, and 2 large roots of kava. One of my absent
daughters, who had been adopted by the chief of the village,
and to whom one of their titles had been given, was also
remembered in the division of food. I could not help con-
trasting the state of the people, and the joy which they
experienced on this day, with some of the trying times which,
as I have already mentioned, we experienced together.

One of my visits to the Pacific is memorable to me as the
time when I first made an acquaintanceship, which ripened
into lasting friendship to the day of his death, with Robert
Louis Stevenson. This was in the year 1890, soon after I had
arrived in Sydney from my first visit to New Guinea. I was
at that time the Special Commissioner of the General
Conference to Tonga ; and as it was deemed desirable that
I should at once proceed to that group, I left on the first
opportunity, and sailed for Tonga in the S.S. Lubeck^ leaving
Sydney on September 4, 1890. Mrs. Brown accompanied me.
The only passengers were Rev. J. Chalmers and wife, of New
Guinea ; Rev. — Hunt and wife, also of New Guinea, but now
returning to Samoa ; and Robert Louis Stevenson and wife —
a name so familiar that it seems quite out of place to put
the prefix " Mr." I need not say that we had a very pleasant
time on board. The weather, 1 believe, was rough, though I
I have no recollections of it myself, and take it for granted
that Chalmers and Stevenson were right in their judgment in
this respect. I only know that, rough or not, I thoroughly
enjoyed the passage. I have seen notices in print from
Chalmers, Stevenson, and Hunt, of the voyage, but content

SAMOA

myself with reproducing those which are now available to
me.

Chalmers, in a letter dated September 26, 1890, says : " We
met the Hunts in Sydney, and accompanied them in the German
steamer to Apia. We had rather a rough passage here, and
were thirty hours behind time. Louis Stevenson and his wife
were on board, and we enjoyed the trip well. They have
bought 400 acres of land behind Apia, and are going to
squat. George Brown, of the Wesleyan New Guinea Mission,
with his wife, was also with us, and you may be sure the
smoking-room, the best place in the ship, was well patronised.
We called at Tonga, but did not see the King, now 98 years
old. We visited the College, and were much pleased with the
students and their work."

Chalmers again, in the sketch of his wife, gives a fuller
account of the meeting with Stevenson : " We spent some time
in Sydney, and then were off to the Islands. We had as
fellow-passengers Mr. and Mrs. Louis Stevenson on their way
back to Samoa. We had a very rough passage, but the
smoking-room was well patronised, and we spent many happy
hours in it with our new friends. Dr. Brown and Mrs. Brown,
of New Britain, were also with us. Oh ! the story-telling of
that trip. Did that smoking-room on any other trip ever
hear so many yarns? Brown surpassed us all, and the gentle
novelist did well. His best stories were personal. My dear
wife often said : ' How gentle and lovable he is ! Just one
to nurse.' He was in very bad health, and was well nursed
and cared for by his clever wife. We were the only passengers,
and the events of the voyage must have made an impression
on all of us."

Stevenson, writing to his mother in September 1 890, from
the S.S. Lubeck, between Sydney and Tonga, three days out,
says : " We have a very interesting party on board : Messrs.
Chalmers and Hunt, of the London Society, and Mr, Brown of
the Wesleyan. Chalmers and Brown are pioneer missionaries,
splendid men, with no humbug, plenty of courage, and the

GEORGE BROWN

love of adventure : Brown, the man who fought a battle with
cannibals at New Britain, and was so squalled over by Exeter
Hall ; Chalmers, a friend of Mrs. Hannah Swan. ... I have
become a terrible missionaryite of late days : very much
interested in their work, errors, and merits. Perhaps it's in the
blood, though it has been a little slow in coming out. No,
to be sure, I always liked the type. Chalmers, a big, stout,
wildish-looking man, iron-grey, with big bold black eyes, and
a deep straight furrow down eack cheek, ^fa/ forty to forty-
five."

I think Stevenson had been somewhat prejudiced against
missionary work. He had either formed his opinions from
statements made to him by prejudiced parties, or he had seen
only some unfavourable examples of the work which has been
accomplished. We never discussed, so far as I can remember,
the necessity, expediency, or obligation of missionary work
amongst the heathen. Chalmers, Hunt, and I, of course, took J
all this for granted, and assumed that Stevenson did the same,
not trying to convert him by argument, but giving him facts
from our own experience, and illustrating our work by some I
of the incidents of our cvery-day life. Many of those which
to us appeared very commonplace appealed very strongly to
Stevenson's sympathies, and he often pointed out the bearing
of some of them upon the great problems of life. We all felt
the better for our free and friendly intercourse and exchange
of thought, and I think that the letter to his mother quoted
above shows that a great change took place in Stevenson's
estimate of missionary work. To myself personally he was I
most kind, and it has always been a source of great regret
to me that I was not able to avail myself of his great wish
to write the story of my life, I would very gladly have
taken advantage of his very kind offer ; but both he and [ felt
that it was utterly impossible at the time, owing to the many
engagements which I then had. I never forget his saying
to me at the close of one of our conversations : " Well, Brown,
if we cannot do it now, we must just wait ; but I want to tell

SAMOA 65

you that if at any time I can help you in any way by the use
of the gifts which God has given me— and folks say that I have
some gifts for writing — I shall be very glad indeed to place
the best I have at your disposal." Needless to say, I thanked
him very sincerely. I met him from time to time afterwards
when I visited Samoa, where he took a deep interest in the
welfare of the natives. He asked my advice on several
occasions with regard to the people amongst whom he lived,
and I was very glad indeed to talk to him about them. I saw
him at his own home in Samoa for the last time about a year
before his death. He knew that I took a deep interest in
the Samoan people, and sent me a copy of his book, A Footnote
to History, in which he has written : " Dear Brown, Please
accept this attempt to tell the truth, from yours sincerely,
Robert Louis Stevenson." Needless to say, this is one of the
treasures of my library.

NEW BRITAIN

Ill

NEW BRITAIN

After fourteen years' residence in Samoa we left that District
for Sydney. Two of our children had already proceeded to
New Zealand for education. On our arrival in Sydney I
brought the matter of extending our missionary operations in
the Pacific before the Board of Missions at the first possible
opportunity. I had for some years past urged the consideration
of this matter by the Board, and I had also written letters on
the same subject to the Fiji District ; but the way had not yet
been opened. On my arrival, however, I commenced to agitate
the matter on every possible occasion. As a result, a meeting
of the Executive Committee of Missions was held on September
9, 1 874. The Minutes of that meeting are as follows :

"The Rev. George Brown, late of Samoa, addressed the
Committee respecting the establishment of a mission in New
Britain or New Ireland, etc., and after an earnest consideration
of the subject, the following resolutions were unanimously
agreed to :

" I. That this meeting has listened to Mr. Brown's statements
with very great interest, and believes that the financial position
of the Australasian Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society is
now such as to justify the enlargement of its sphere of
operations.

" 2. That the meeting regards with favour the proposal to
send the missionary ship John JVesley, on her next voyage in
March or April of 1875, to visit the large islands of New
3iitain and New Ireland, with a view to the commencement of

GEORGE BROWN

misBODBry operatioas; and if opoa inqaiiy it should still
appear that there are openings of importance, and that the
enterprise is practicable, it will give its sanction to the
ondertaking."

For the furtherance of the obfect stated, the Committee
asked me to viat the le^wctive Coknies. to bring the matter
before our people, and, as &r as possible, to secure funds for
carrying it ooL I had just leUaucd from Samoa, and was
naturally anxious to settle my ^mily in New Zealand and to
see the dear children we had sent there ; but I felt that this
was the call of God to me, and I dare not refuse it. During
the next few months^ therefore, I visited the principal Circuits in
New Sooth Wales, Victoria, Tasmania, and New Zealand, and
was able, by God's blessn^ to excite a ooosiderable interest in
the minds of our people. The Srst place in which I spoke
after formal sanction bad been given b>- the Committee to the
proposal was at Balbfat, ia Victoria. Our meetings in Tasmania
were very snccessfiil indeed, and whilst diere I succeeded in
interesting the late Henry Reed, of Momt Pleasant, Launceston,
and found him to be during the remainder of his life one of our
most valuable supporters. He was interested in any scheme for
the ad\'anccment of Christ's kir^dom, and, as be himself said,
be reganied it as one of the great privileges of his life that he
was able to help in the establishment of our New Britain
Mission. He promised to gi\Y jf'soo for a steam launch which
1 considered to be a very necessary part of our outfit The
Committee was much encoor^ed by the result of our appeal,
and prepaiatiOQS for the first voyage were at once commenced.

I went to New Zealand, arriving Aere in January 1875.
After settlir^ my wife and £amily in Auckland I returned to
S>'dne>', and made ftotiier prepuratioas for our voyage. The
late Commodore Goodcnoagh aad Lieutenant Dennison of
H.M.S. Bmt^Uk^ who had recently returned from a marine
s«nfcy of the northern coast of New Guinea, very kindly
supplied us with the latest tnfanaation r^arding those places.
l^e Steam lauad^ wtudi w^ Quoed tf>e ffmt^ Rttd^ was

NEW BRITAIN

obtained, and very careful consideration was paid to the
question of supplies and articles for trade.

We left in Khc John Wesley on April 27, having as fellow-
passengers Revs. Lorimer Fison and Jesse Carey, with their
respective families, and also Baron A. von Hugel, a European
naturalist, and two assistants, who went for the purpose of
making researches in zoology and collecting specimens in
natural history. We had a fair passage of nineteen days, and
arrived in Fiji on May 16, just after that fearful epidemic of
measles, during which about 40,000 of the people perished from
the disease. The John Wesley, I think, was the first ship which
was allowed free communication with the shore. On our
arrival we found that it was quite impossible to get the men
who had been appointed to go with us. Some were dead,
and others were scattered about in different parts of Fiji. I
consulted the brethren, and finally decided to visit Bau and
Navuloa.

I started in the Henry Reed on June 26, with Brother A. J.
Webb, who was then stationed in the Rewa circuit. We left
Bau at 8 a.m., Navuloa at 10 a.m., Rewa at 3 p.m., Davuilevu
(Rev. T. Baker's old station) at 4.20 p.m., and came to anchor
a little below Mr, Storck's plantation at Viti at i a.m.

The Rewa is a fine river, and I thoroughly enjoyed the trip
though we heard sad tales of the fearful ravages caused by the
measles. At one small village where we landed we were told
that more than eighty of the inhabitants had died. In many of
the towns one-half of the people were dead, and in very few
indeed did the mortality fall below one-fourth of the inhabitants.
Whole villages were struck down at once, so that there was no
one to dig the graves or prepare the food, and starvation helped
the disease in its deadly work. We were told of some villages
where there was no one to take out the dead for burial, so the
sick and the dying had to scratch holes in the houses by the
side of their own beds in which to cover up their dead. The
stench from the houses was intolerable, and those who went
^bout from day to day among the people on their errands of

GEORGE BROWN

n)erc>' did their work amid circumstances which involved no
inconsiderable amount of sufTering and self-sacrifice on their
part. Our missionaries and teachers had nobly done their
work during this fearful visitation. I felt proud of our
misskmaries and their wires, and of our noble band of
teachers in FijL With regard to the work done by our
teachers, I can give the testimony of a respectable planter,
who had the best opportunity for judging. He came alongside
the Uuoch, and stayed with us some time, telling us of what he
had seen during the prevalence of the epidemic I need not
tepeftt the sad tales he told us, but gladly give his testimony to
the faithful labours of ooe teacher, far away from the missionary
under whose care he was placed. He said : " I saw him hard
at work every day. One day I watched htm as he buried six
of his people, and nodced as he buried the last one that he
himself w-as scarcely able to move about from weakness and
extumstion ; but he kept manfully at his work.** The kind heart
of the planter was toodked with the sufferings and manifest
weakness of the poor fcUow, and be had a fowl killed, and sent^
it over to him to stiq^tben him a little. I believe most
the plantefs and merchants did all they could to help the
natives They made perhaps no very great profession of
affectkm for tike Ftpans, hm the tree English heart ever melts
at tbe sigiit of Mufleiit^, amd is ever ready to respond to an
appeal for hdp ; and so it was in FijL

Of the missionaries themselves I do not care to say much ;
but I can tell of ooe wIk\ with his own fomfly sick, with a large.
tvmtk stricken down at once to attend to^ had to work day and
o^^ to minister to tbcsr wants oatB his own stock of stores
was expended; and bat for tbe kind help of one of the
Gov«nun«at officials, be ami In fomiijr mndd ha\-e suffe
^^*B Mmgn. 1 can tcO of anodMr cafaoonasy who, when
«as no one in the town able to dig tbe yzm&, went into
wash hhawlC <taK the ywa^ brong^ them home, and oookc
*«» for bb itaiiiiif pasfle I can tell of bis having to watchj
thcok day hf di^ |» ktcp Ihem from injorii^ tbemselv^

NEW BRITAIN

through their own ignorance — one day having to go and drag
a poor half-maddened Fijian woman from a waterhole into
which, in her despair, she had rushed, in the vain hope of
cooling her fevered body. I can tell of one good lady (the wife
of the one just named) who was away washing a poor little
motherless Fijian baby, and returned home only to find that
one of her own dear little ones had died in her short absence.
I can tell of another missionary who went from house to house
visiting the sick, and almost compelling them to take the
medicines with which he supplied them, when he himself was so
weak with his long- continued labours that one of the few young
men who were not attacked had to accompany him with a chair,
on which to sit while he attended to the wants of the people.
But why multiply instances when every mission station, and
almost every villajje in Fiji, could furnish similar proofs that the
spirit of self-sacrifice and self-denying love was as apparent
then as it ever was in the old days of heathenism ?

As we went on our way up the river we met a messenger
bringing a letter from one of the native ministers to Mr. Webb.
The writer was stationed amongst some of the mountain tribes,
who had but recently made a profession of Christianity. In
addition to the sad news that 1,072 had died in the section
under his immediate charge, we were told of some towns whose
people, under the influence of superstition, and imagining that
this fearful scourge was sent as a punishment for abandoning
the religion of their fathers, had driven away their teachers
and returned to heathenism ; and of one town where the
teacher having died they buried his wife and child alive in
the same grave. These were dreadful tales to hear as we
steamed up that beautiful river ; but we were comforted by
the recollection of the many triumphs of the Gospel amongst
these people, by the assurance that many of those who were
dead had manifested the power of the religion of Jesus both
in life and in death, and by the sure and certain trust that
God could make even this severe trial an instrument of good
toth to whites and to Fijians, to ministers and to people.

GEORGE BROWN

I shall not soon forget our midnight voyage. It was a
fine clear night, and the calmly flowing river reflected in a
most lovely manner the shadows of the trees and of the hills,
around the bases of which it flowed on its way to the sea. The
silence was unbroken, except by the fierce puffing of our little
launch as she belched forth flame and smoke, to the surprise
and admiration of the natives, and especially of some who were
sitting in front of their town, and who suddenly broke the
stillness of the night by a most weird, unearthly yell, as we
passed close by them, which was repeated with interest as the
engineer sounded the shrill steam whistle for their amusement.

On our way down the river we passed close to Beard Rock
— so called because any young Fijian who wished to have his
face ornamented with a good flowing beard could have his
wish gratified by rubbing his chin long enough and hard
enough on the face of the rock. Just after we passed that
place we met a canoe paddling up the river, and Mr. Webb
called out to me : " See, there's Aisea Nasikai, one of the
two teachers who escaped when Mr. Baker and party were
murdered " ; and then the tale was told how the poor fellow
rushed into the reeds when he was struck, and crouched down
there, hearing the talk of the murderers as they mutilated the
dead bodies. So nearly was he discovered that one of the
men who were looking for him actually stood upon his fooL
Whilst he was hiding he heard the men calling out for a light
with which to fire the reeds, in order to drive him out, but
fortunately they went away without carrying their purpose
into effect. A few miles farther down we passed one of the
boats of H.M.S. Blartcfu, and exchanged salutations with
Captain Simpson, R.N., and some of his officers who were
going up the river. And so the past and the present came
very vividly before us — old cannibal Fiji, with the yells of the
murderers and the beat of the death-drums almost sounding
in our ears, and a Crown colony of Great Britain, the peaceful
mission of the survey ship, and the quiet homes of the planters
on the fiver's banks,

NEW BRITAIN

Next day (28th) we reached Bau, calling at Navuloa on
our way. On June i we held our meeting at Navuloa with
the missionaries and native ministers, and I afterwards met
the students. I shall never forget that meeting. The late
Rev. Joseph Waterhouse was the principal of Navuloa at the
time. When the bell was rung for the meeting we went
into the large school-hall, which was but dimly lighted by a
few small lights. Mr. Waterhouse and I sat on the teachers'
platform as the students assembled. Many of them were pale
and haggard from the ravages of the terrible epidemic through
which they had passed. I stood up, and can honestly say
to-day that not one single thing was hidden from them. I
told them of what God had put it into my heart to do. I
told them that the men who had been appointed to go with
me could not now be obtained, and that I had come with the
consent of the missionaries to bring the matter before them.
I told them all that we knew of the place, and of the character
of the people who lived there ; of the ferocity of the natives ;
of the unhealthy character of the climate ; that they would
be exposed to dangers on every hand ; that in all probability
many of them would never see their own Fijian homes again,
I warned them also that they might be left there alone without
any white missionary to look after them, ais up to that time
I had not decided to act contrary to the instructions which
I received in Sydney, to return at once in the John WesUy, I
assured them that we could not take the responsibility of
appointing any one to go ; but that the decision must rest
entirely with them ; that if no one volunteered we should not
in any way blame them, but that if any of them were willing
to go we should be very thankful. I repeat again, the whole
matter was placed before them in its blackest and darkest
colours. At the close of my address I asked if any were
willing to volunteer, but at this point Mr. Waterhouse rose
and said : *' No I Young men," he went on, " you have heard
what Mr. Brown has told you, but 1 do not think you ought
to answer his Question to-night. Go home and put the whol^

GEORGE BROWN

matter before God in prayer for His ^idance. Consult also
with your wives and with your friends, and then after this
time for calm and quiet consideration, cocne again to-morrow,
and we will take your answer then."

Next rooming we gathered togeAcr again in the hall, and
Mr. Waterbousc put the matter fully before them, and then
asked if any were willing to volunteer ; and I am sure it ought
to be remembered to the honour of our Fijian students that
e%*ery one of the eighty-three present expressed his willingness
to go. It was a most impressive scene, one which I can only
veT>' inadeqtiately describe, but which left an impression on
my mind which continues unto the present day.

V\'e selected six of the married men and three of the
sti^c mcTL Good old Jod Bulu gave them a very stirring
address, and there was a deep and solemn feeling in the
meeting as he told them of his own experiences in the days
gone by in Fiji, exhorting them to put their trust in the
same God who had watched over and protected the missionaries
and teachers in their labours in this land, and who had so
signally blessed them in their work. He finished by pointing
them to the glorious reward which awaited the faithful soldiers
of the Cross.

After all our preparations had been made for leaving on
June 12, we heard a rumour to the effect that the Government
were going to throw some obstacles in our way ; and when
Captain Mansell went to dear the ship at the Customs he
was told that he could not do so that day. On the afternoon
of that day a gentleman waited upon me with a letter from
the Colonial Secretary, inviting me to meet His Honour the
Administrator of the Government at the Executive Council
Quunbcrs, Nasova. with the Fijians who had been appointed
to accompany me. I replied at once, stating that I should
be very glad to take them to Government House the following
morning at 1 1 a.m.

In the meantime we heard that two gentlemen connected
with th^ Government had gone to the tochers and aske4

NEW BRITAIN

them whether they were going of their own free will, how
much salary they were getting, etc., etc. ; and finished up
by asking them if there were no heathens in Fiji to convert
This was the account given to us by the natives. The gentle-
man who brought me the letter told me that he was one
of those who had been sent to the teachers, but he wished
me to understand that they had only gone in obedience to
orders, as the Government wished to know from the natives
themselves on what conditions they were being sent.

I had previously determined in my own mind how I would
act in any negotiations with the Government, so I simply
stated that I was very glad indeed that the Government
manifested such a kindly interest in the welfare of the natives.
I also said that I was vtry glad that they had obtained the
testimony of the teachers in such an independent way, as
they roust now be certain that it was impossible for us to
have prepared them for such an examination, as we had not
the slightest suspicion that the Government intended to move
in the matter. I told him also that whilst we weregiad that they
had seen the teachers, I as an individual thought that they
might have manifested their confidence and shown a little
simple courtesy by informing us of their interview. He seemed
to feel this to be true.

At 1 1 a.m. next day 1 attended at the Government buildings
with ihe teachers. The meeting was held in the Executive
Council Chambers and was composed of His Honour the
Administrator, Messrs. Thurston, Horton, Bcntley, Frazer,
Katu Mclc, Katu Tcvita, Scott (interpreter), Secretary of
Council, myself, and the nine teachers. I was very kindly
received, and had a chair given me next to Mr. Layard. He
told me that the reason why the Government wished to meet
the teachers and myself was that reports were being circulated
that the men were not volunteers, that they were being kept
in Ignorance of the real facts of the case, and that as they
were now British subjects the Government considered them-
selves to be responsible for them, and therefore wished to

Ma^

GEORGE BROWN

have the whole matter fully explained to them. He also told me
that he had a dispatch from home which positively forbade
any Fijians being taken away to other groups, though he
scarcely thought that that dispatch was meant to apply to
such a case as this.

I replied by giving a short account of the history of the
mission up to the present time. I told them of the selection
of the first lot of volunteers, of the time which had been given
for consideration, the number who had volunteered in each
Circuit, etc. ; then of our coming here and not being able to
collect these men, and so having to make a second call for
volunteers. I informed them that in response to that call the
whole of the students in Navuloa volunteered ; that we had
selected nine of the number who were now present, and finished
by assuring them that no one had spoken to the teachers on
the subject, and that up to that very moment they were in
complete ignorance of the reason for their being then present.

Mr. Layard then addressed the teachers through the in-
terpreter, and told them that they must remember that they
were now British subjects ; that no missionary or any one else
had any right to compel them to go to any place where
they themselves did not wish to go ; that they were free to
go and free to stay ; that he was responsible for their safety ;
that if any of them went away now and got killed and
eaten, the Government here would be blamed by the Home
Government, and so he wished to tell them himself all about
the countries to which they were being taken, and then to
hear from them their own opinion and wishes. He then told
them about the people—that they were great cannibals and
very fierce; that the islands were very unhealthy, so that almost
every one that went there suffered much from fever and ague;
that food might be very scarce, and that although we might
take food with us, yet it was not the food to which Fijians
were accustomed. He told them that they would be left alone,
without protection or support, for some months, and asked them
to consider the matter, and if after hearing what had been told

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them they still wished to go, he would not prevent them, but
would wish them Godspeed.

I confess that after hearing the address given by His
Honour the Administrator, I felt some degree of alarm. I
know natives well, and I knew that the reasons given against
their going were such as were most likely to influence them
to remain. It was, for instance, touching the Fijian on a very
tender spot when he was told that in all probability food
would be extremely scarce, and that the biscuits and rice
which we were taking would be both unsuitable and insufficient
for his maintenance. It was also a very strange thing to say,
as was virtually said, that the diseases prevalent in the land
to which they were going were far worse than that terrible
epidemic which they had just passed through. But perhaps
the most powerful of all reasons to a native mind for not
going was that he might probably die away from his own
home. There is nothing which a native dreads more than
this ; and I have often known them, when almost in the article
of death, plead to be taken back to their own homes, that they
might die there.

After consultation together, the teachers asked if they were
to reply individually, or if one should speak for them all.
Mr. Layard said that if they had appointed one to speak he
could do so, or they could all speak if they wished, They
were placed at a different part of the room, and away from
the place where I was sitting, so that there was no consultation
between us. After they had conferred together Aminio Bale
stood up, and with deep feeling thanked His Honour for
the remarks which he had made to them. He went, in native
fashion, over the whole of His Honour's address, thanking
him for each particular item of information, and for the advice
which he had tendered to them. He then said : " We wish,
however, to inform your Honour that this is no new thing to
us. Mr. Brown told us all that you have told us about the
character of the people, the unhealthiness of the climate, and
the dangers we will probably have to encounter. No one

GEORGE BROWN

appointed us to go. We were simply asked whether we
would volunteer. Mr. Waterhouse also told us that we were
free to go, or free to remain, and that no disgrace would
be incurred by us if we decided to remain in Fiji. After
consultation we decided to volunteer, and we, sir, are very
thankful to God that we have been selected for this great
work, and our comrades at Navuloa are sad at heart to-day
that they are not able to go with us." And then, in words
which I shall never forget, he added : " We wish also to thank
Your Excellency for telling us that we are British subjects,
and that you take such an interest in us, and that if we wish
to remain you will take care that we are not taken from our
homes in Fiji. But, sir, we have fully considered this matter
in our hearts ; no one has pressed us in any way ; we have
given ourselves up to do God's work, and our mind to-day,
sir, is to go with Mr. Brown. If we die, we die ; if wc live,
we live."

My heart was full as I heard this noble fellow speak out
so well, and his reply evidently made a good impression ; but
Mr. Layard began again telling them of the hardships endured
by the London Missionary Society's teachers in New Guinea,
and read extracts from the Morning Herald of May 8, with
the accounts of the sufferings and death of teachers and their
wives.

Here I thought that it was time for me to speak, and so
I told His Honour, in as quiet and polite a manner as I possibly
could, that I thought he was only frightening the natives
unnecessarily ; that the dangers of the work were being put
before the teachers, not as possible contingencies, nor even as
probable ones, but as absolute certainties. I pointed out that
there was a great difference between the mangrove flats of
New Guinea and the islands to which we were first going ;
that food, so far from being scarce, was plentiful indeed, and
of the same description as in Fiji, and quoted as my authority
Captain Simpson, of H.M.S. Blanche, then in port. Captain
Ferguson, Lieutenant Sanders, etc.

NEW BRITAIN

Mr. Thurston here addressed the teachers by His Honour's
request, and made an excellent speech, saying that he quite
concurred in what I had just said about the teachers being
frightened, that he could substantiate my statements about
the plentiful supply of food, as several gentlemen had told
him about the immense terraces of New Britain cultivated
by the natives and full of all kinds of food. He said, also,
that it was quite true that the Duke of York Island was
probably healthy, though he believed that on both the larger
islands there would be plenty of fever and ague; but this
should not stand much in the way, as in seven-tenths of the
world we can find plenty of that disease. He said that, with
his Honour's permission, he would put the matter again before
the teachers. This he did, dwelling, however, more particularly
on the assurance that the Government did not wish to hinder
them, but only to protect them, and to be able to assure
the Home Government, in case any of them got killed, that
they went of their own free will, and knowing well the dangers
to which they were exposed.

He then said that His Honour wished, after this further
explanation, that each man should answer for himself as to
whether the matter was quite clear to them ; and it did my
heart good to hear the noble fellows say in loud tones, and
with an accent that carried conviction to all: " It is all perfectly
clear to us. Sa macala saka."

Mr. Layard asked me about terms of service, payment, etc.,
to which I replied by saying that when they were ill, or when
from any other cause it was deemed right for any of them to
return, we considered ourselves pledged to bring them back
to Fiji. As to payment, they went on the same footing as
our other teachers placed in similar circumstances, but that
as soon as ever it was practicable the people would be expected
to support them. A document was then produced, which they
were asked to sign. A translation was read to them, and they
all replied: "It is all right," or "It is all clear to us." The
following is a copy :

GEORGE BROWN

" Wc, the undersigned Wesleyan teachers, do solemnly and
truly declare that we were fully and carefully informed by the
promoters of the mission to New Britain, New Ireland, etc.,
of the dangers which may be incurred to life and limb from
the cannibal propensities of the natives of those islands and
the insalubrious nature of the climate, which produces fever
and ague, and diseases of that character. We also were fully
acquainted with the discomforts we may undergo from want
of the food to which we are accustomed, and from not being
able to speak the language of the people, among whom we
should be left without protection or support for some months ;
and we declare that, fully knowing all this, we make an election
to proceed on this mission of our own free will, not compelled
thereto by any orders or authority of any one, but simply
desirous of spreading the knowledge of the Gospel of Christ
among the heathen inhabitants of those islands.

"Department of Native Affairs,
"NASOVA,y««^ 13, 1875."

After a little general conversation, and an expression of
goodwill and kind wishes from Mr. Layard, the meeting
adjourned.

With regard to this action taken by the Government, I
scarcely know what to say. Most people at the time spoke
of it as a vexatious interference and a manifestation of petty
spite ; but 1 did not look upon it in that light. Mr. Layard
certainly seemed at one time to be trying to frighten the
teachers against going, and I protested against it ; but whether
he really wished to stop them or not was, I think, very doubtful.
I myself gave the Government credit for sincerity in the matter.
They had instructions from home to look after and protect
the Fijians ; and probably believed that we were going to
sacrifice our men in some fanatical way ; and as they knew
that if any Fijians were murdered in the islands to which we
were taking them, there would be an inquiry made into the
matter, as they were then British subjects, they would naturally

iiy
ist m

I
I
I

NEW BRITAIN

desire to be in a position to prove that all due precautions
were taken by them to protect the interests of the people whom
they were appointed to govern.

We were detained four weeks in Fiji, owing principally to
difficulties connected with the Customs Department, which was
not then in proper working order. I was naturally impatient
to get away, but in the light of past experience I felt that it
was all ordered aright. Had we got away from Sydney at
the time first appointed, or had our passage been a shorter one
tlian it was, we should have arrived in Fiji before the termination
of the epidemic, would not have been allowed to communicate
with the shore, and might have been compelled to abandon
the voyage to New Britain for that year. In a letter which
I wrote to the General Secretary at the time I said : " We
have got a fine lot of men. I really wonder how they stood
that ordeal before the Government, which was a most trying
one to them ; yet they passed through it nobly. Mr. Layard
said to me after it was over that it was most satisfactory, and
the other members of the Executive Council seemed to be of
that opinion. Every day as any of our teachers passes along
the beach some ' friend of missions ' laughs at them, and
tries to frighten them. ' Are you one of the fellows going to
the new land ? ' ' Yes.' ' Oh ! oh ! oh ! what a fool you are.
You will be killed and eaten most certainly,' etc. It is really
wonderful that some of them do not get faint-hearted about
it; but they only smile when these remarks are made." We
got away finally on June 15, 1S75, and arrived at Samoa on
June 30.

We intended just to go into the harbour of Saluafata, but
the Rev. J. E, Mathieson came over to us in a boat, and said
that we were not allowed to land there on account of our
coming from Fiji so recently after the epidemic of measles
there. We had consequently to go on to Apia for medical
inspection. The medical officer boarded us outside, and granted
pratique. After taking on board two Samoan teachers with
their wives, and two of my old boys who went with me, we

ilL

GEORGE BROWN

left Samoa and arrived at Roturoa on Friday July 23, after
a passage of three and a half days. Here we were joined by
Rev. W. and Mrs, Fletcher and family, who decided to go with
us on their way to Sydney.

At Rotuma I decided to depart from the instructions which
I had received in Sydney, to return in the John Wesley after
leaving the teachers in New Britain. I did this after full
consideration, as I determined that it should never be said
that we placed Fijians and Samoans in any place where we
were afraid to remain ourselves. I had of course made no
provision for staying, but I purchased a whale-boat in Rotuma
and a few boards, whilst Mr. Fletcher kindly gave me one or
two old doors and sashes.

We left Rotuma on Saturday, July 31. During the whole
of the passage from Fiji to New Britain, and for a long time
afterwards, I was in very poor health, and suffered very much
from a very painful chronic inftammatton of the mucous
membrane of the bowels. It is difBcult for me to write much
about this matter ; but as this is the story of my life it is
scarcely right to omit all mention of it. I suffered very severely,
and often felt very much depressed in mind. It was, I think,
the feeling of the great responsibility which was placed upon
me, and a strong, earnest longing to see the work which I had
taken in hand carried through, by God's blessing, which enabled
me to continue my work. I find in my diary constant allusions
to this matter. When passing through the Solomons 1 wrote
on August 1 1 I "I feel very weak, and often get very low-
spirited, fearing lest this sickness should hinder my work. I
hope to be guided aright. They are beginning to say on board
that I ought not to stay behind, but my way seems quite clear
to do so yet I do not fear any ill results, and sometimes
when they are brought to my mind I seem to regard the idea
of even dying there with a strange degree of complacency."

On August 20 I wrote after our arrival in New Britain ; " Not
very well again to-day. I do so wish that I was stronger and
healthier. There is a fine field of usefulness here, and 1 long

NEW BRITAIN 85

to labour for Christ ; but these attacks all seem to weaken me
a good deal." Almost every day has its record regarding this
complaint, but occasionally I felt, of course, worse than at
other times.

On September 1 1 I must have been feeling very dull, for I
wrote : " I do so wish that I was well and strong. I want
to work for God, but feel kept down by this sickness. Oh I
for faith to recognise God's loving hand at all times and under
all circumstances. I feel much depressed sometimes,"

Again on September 15:" Still far from well all day. I tried
hard to do some work for the sake of exercise, but could not
do much. I managed to saw some battens in the morning,
but had to rest after dinner." Then follows a description of my
illness and the medicine taken, and then I wrote : " Oh ! how I
feel the want of my dear wife when I am so unwell. I feci such
a longing to-day to have her near me. Still, I feel that I am
doing what is right, and God is with us." It is painful for me
to write of this, but it may be of use to others, as showing the
necessity in these tropical climates of fighting to the last
against the depressing effects of sickness. It would, I am sure,
have been quite easy for me to have lain down and died, but
I felt I could be of more use in the world by living, and I
determined by God's blessing to do so.

During our passage we had, of course, regular services on
board, and I think it well here to give an outline which I took
at the time of a sermon preached by Elimotama, one of our
Fijian teachers, on August 8, whilst we were passing the Solomons
group. He preached from Romans xv. 20 and 21:" Yea, making
it my aim so to preach the Gospel, not where Christ was already
named, that I might not build upon another man's foundation :
but as it is written, They shall see to whom no tidings of Him
came : and they who have not heard shall understand." After a
brief introduction, in which he spoke of St Paul's history, of
the time when this letter was written, and of the condition of
the people to whom it was sent, he treated his subject under
three divisions. He first spoke of St. Paul's way, dwelling

GEORGE BROWN

particularly on the fact that it was a way marked out for him
by God, not a path of his own choosing, not an appointment
given him by men, but that God called him to his work, and
told him what to do, and how to do it ; that his path or work
was that of preaching the Gospel. He then drew an analogy
between our present circumstances and those in which the
apostle was placed, saying we also are like St. Paul in these
respects. Our path has been marked out for us by God ; wc
have not been appointed or ordered to do this work by the
missionaries or by the teacher's meeting, but God has called us,
God has told us what to do, and He still shows us the way in
which we are to walk. We have not chosen this work simply
of ourselves, but God's Spirit tells us to walk in this path and
preach the Gospel.

His second division was, that St. Paul's path or work was a
new path. He showed that the apostle went to preach to
those who had never before heard the Gospel : others had to
preach to the Jews, but St. Paul's work was that of a missionary.
And arc not we, he asked, the missionaries and teachers on board
this ship, like St. Paul ? There are plenty still left behind in
Fiji and Samoa to preach to the people there, but ours is a
new path, ours is a new work. We go to a heathen land
and to a heathen people, to tetl them about Jesus and the
Gospel.

His third division was, that St Paul's path or work was the
path of the Book, the meaning of which, as explained by him,
was, that it was a work which God had promised in the Book
should be accomplished. He showed that God had promised
that the Gentiles should be partakers of the blessings of the
Gospel, and that St. Paul was simply an instrument in the hand
of God in carrying out His own purposes, and bringing about
the fulfilment of His promises. And then, in true Polynesian
style, he applied this part also to themselves, assuring his
hearers that they also, in going on this mission, and doing this
work, were but instruments in God's hand for carrying out His
own purposes of love and mercy to the heathen amongst whom

NEW BRITAIN

they were going. Then, with a few earnest words of encourage-
ment and counsel, he concluded his discourse.

I give this outline as a fair sample of the style of a native
teacher's sermon, and also as showing most satisfactorily the
knowledge they possessed of the work in which they were
entering, and the spirit in which they engaged in it. When the
teacher sat down I gave out a hymn in Samoan, founded on
the words of that old favourite,

"Oh happy day that fixed my choice,"

which the Samoans sang, and I then gave them a short address
in their own language. In the afternoon the Fijian service was
held again, and in the evening Mr. Fletcher met the Rotumans
for prayer, etc., and afterwards preached in English to passengers
and crew. And so the Sunday passed away. We had services
on board in four different languages, in which the same glorious
Gospel was proclaimed and the same plan of salvation set forth.
On Saturday, August 14, we saw the land, and by i p.m.
were well within St. George's Channel. A large square-rigged
vessel was in sight right ahead, which we conjectured to be the
barque Sydney ^ Captain Woodhouse. New Ireland was close
to us on our right hand, whilst away on the left stretched out
the large island of New Britain. And so at last we were in
sight of the islands we had so long hoped to see ; there were
the fields where we hoped to labour, and there dwelt the men
to whom we were bringing the glorious Gospel of our Lord
Jesus, with all its privileges and blessings, and with the re-
sponsibilities which it entails upon those who receive it. As I
looked at those large islands I had many strange and solemn
thoughts about the mission in which we were engaged. I tried
to think of the work which we were going to do, and wondered
what trials we should have to bear, and what joy and gladness
would be ours ; how many fights and how many victories
were before us ; how long it would be before the people there
received the Gospel and rejoiced in the assurance of a
Saviour's love.

GEORGE BROWN

The teachers, of course, were all excited, but I did not
observe the sh'ghtest sign of cowardice or regret at the step
they had taken. Not one of them, I believe, felt any doubts
as to the final issue of the work in which we were engaged.
Twas not will these people receive the Gospel, but wfum will
they do so ? 'Twas not will the enemy be vanquished, but how
many battles have to be fought, and how many will find a
soldier's grave there before the victory is gained and the victors'
reward secured ?

At 8 p.m., as we were concluding family prayer, the officer
on watch knocked on the deck to call the captain, and we at
once guessed that some canoes were coming off from New
Ireland ; and on going on deck we found a canoe almost along-
side. The natives seemed to be very suspicious, and it was
some little time before we could reassure them, and get them
on board. They sold us a little pig, and seemed disposed to
be friendly. We took one of them down into the cabin,
and by a few little presents made friends with all of them.
They were quite naked, and not at alt prepossessing.

On Sunday, August 1 5, we made sail early ; but having
little wind, several canoes from New Ireland came off to trade.
We gave them a few little presents but refused to trade.
Barque Sydney was in close company with us. At 1.36 p.m.
we ancliored in Port Hunter, Duke of York Island, and very
soon had a great number of natives on board, all eager to trade.
We had to explain to them that on that day we could neither buy
nor sell, and they soon understood our meaning. We found
all the tales we had heard about them confirmed by our actual
experience. Not one of all those who came on board had a
single article of clothing or any covering whatever. Looking
around the cove we could see no houses, but it was soon evident
that there must be a large number of people living close to us.
Topulu (alias King Dick), the principal chief, came on board
in the afternoon, and seemed quite at home. His Majesty the
King was not distinguishable from any of his subjects by any
costly apparel or regal attire \ in fact, a bead ornament about

NEW BRITAIN

his neck, and a rattle of shells hanging over his back, con-
stituted at once the whole of his dress and his insignia of
royalty.

In the afternoon we held our first service on this island.
One of the Fijians preached, and Mr. Fletcher and I concluded
the service. Many of the people were on board, and watched
our proceedings with quiet, respectful interest. In the evening
we had English service on deck, as it was a calm, still night,
and with the intense heat in the cabin the poop was decidedly
preferable. And so closed our first Sunday in the new mission.
As I walked the deck after service, the silence and stillness
of a tropical night, broken only by an occasional shout from
inland, by the mournful cry of some night bird, or by the splash
of the lai^e fish playing around the ship, I thought much of
God's love manifested to us throughout the voyage, and my
heart was filled with gratitude to Him for His watchful pro-
vidence and care over us in the past, with earnest desires to do
the work He had given us to do, and with an assured trust
that He would still be with us and would bless us. I realised
that He had certainly been with us in the past, and had caused
all things to work together for good. Had wc left Sydney
when we first intended to do so our mission could not have
been begun that year, as we should not have been able to
procure teachers. As it was, however, we reached Fiji just
when the measles had so far abated as to render teachers
available. And then those long detentions and many hindrances
on the voyage, what did they all mean ? They certainly made
me feel very plainly that I must remain behind with the
teachers, and it was at this time that I definitely decided to
do so. I could not endure the thought of leaving them alone
in that strange land, more especially as there was no sufficient
time to make adequate arrangements for locating them in
villages and under the assured protection of the chiefs, as we
at first intended to do. I fully and fairly considered all that
could be urged against the step, especially as regarded the state
of my own health, the position of my wife and children in New

GEORGE BROWN

Zealand, the claims they had upon me, as well as the amount
of physical labour to be done, and the risks to be run in visiting
the large islands ; and still it seemed clearly to be my duty to
remain behind.

Monday and the following days were spent in examining
the different sites suggested for a mission station, in which work
Mr. Fletcher gave me valuable assistance. It was of course
thought very desirable to secure Topulu's favour, and he
naturally wished the missionary to be stationed in his own
village ; but we found that though the harbour of Makada, on
which he lived, was a much more capacious one than Port
Hunter, with far better water close at hand, yet the site appeared
to be low and unhealthy. We finally decided to fix the station
on a fine high piece of land in Port Hunter, in which Topulu
had also an interest. This we bought, and got a properly
executed conveyance for it from Topulu, Waruwarum and
Naragua. Having to pay separately the three claimants for
the land, the aggregate price paid was more than it was really
worth, but we all felt it best to let the natives see that we
wished to act fairly and honestly with them. Topulu wanted
a musket and ammunition instead of the goods given hira ;
but we explained to him that such articles could not be supplied
by us, and he was well satisfied with our explanation.

On Thursday we commenced preparitTg the land for the
erection of the house. The natives were very friendly, and
some of them were willing to help us with the work. I had two
men pointed out to me that morning who were slaves. They
told me that they belonged to bushmen who lived in the
interior of the island. They said that these bushmen covered
themselves with leaves, and so well did they conceal themselves
that though they might be standing close at hand it was
impossible to distinguish them from the surrounding bush. It
will give some idea of the condition of these people when I
state that they appeared to live in continual dread of attack.
They never went far away from their houses without taking their
fighting tomahawks with them, and we could not get them to

I
I

NEW BRITAIN

the other side of the cove for water or ballast unless they were
guarded by some one from the ship.

We had that morning our first intimation of the existence
of secret societies here. We invited Waruwarum and
Naragua to breakfast, and they ate heartily, but absolutely
refused to taste pork. They told us that it was " tabu" for them
to touch it, and we found out afterwards that they were thus
forbidden because they belonged to a society called Iniat, an
account of which I shall give later on. On walking through
the small village scattered round the bay we were all much
pleased with the cleanliness of some of the houses ; but they
were very miserable structures, most of them being only eight
feet long by five feet wide, and very low. There was about
room for two people to lie down on the ground, with a bit of
fire between them. They had no mats except a few made of
plaited cocoanut leaf, and the general bed was a bit of board
consisting of the side of some old canoe. The women and
children were all friendly, and many of the latter seemed bright
and intelligent

On Sunday the 22nd we had a very quiet day, which was
a great relief after the noise and excitement of the week. We
had requested the people on the Saturday not to come on
board, and we had very little trouble in keeping the ship clear.

The following days were spent in house-building. The
rough timber was cut in the bush by some of the crew and
our Fijian and Samoan teachers, with occasional assistance
from the natives. Grass for thatch, small posts and battens for
the walls, were purchased from the natives. The house when
completed was thirty-two feet long by fifteen feet wide, and in
this one room, for some time, were all our stores, eight teachers,
with their wives, children, and luggage, besides ourselves. I
had to swing my hammock to the ridge pole, and climb up
to it by means of the boxes and cases, whilst the teachers
and their families camped down as best they could amongst
the cases underneath.

On Tuesday, August 21, we left Port Hunter at 10 a.m.

GEORGE BROWN

with a fine, fair wind, and anchored at Blanche Bay, just off
Matupit, at 2.15 p.m. Our arrival there caused great excitement
in the whole of the Bay, as ships were very rarely seen there.
The island oflf which we anchored had a very evil reputation
in the group. The traders had made several attempts to
establish stations in Blanche Bay, but always failed. About
eighteen months before wc landed two traders had been stationed
at Matupit by Messrs. Goddefroy of Samoa. These men had
a good house and boats, and plenty of trade. They were,
however, able to remain only a few weeks, and during the
most of that time they were barricaded in their house. The
natives finally set fire to it, and the two men only escaped
by shooting five of them as they fought their way to the boat.
The people of Duke of York, and many of the neighbouring
villages on New Britain, were especially afraid of those Matupit
natives.

On Wednesday during the greater part of the day there
were at least from ninety to a hundred canoes alongside, with
an average crew of six men in each. We had hard work to
keep them from crowding on board together, and many of the
members of our crew were very frightened indeed, They came
aft and demanded arms from the captain, but these were not
supplied, and so they mounted hand spikes instead. Ropes
were drawn across the ship, past which natives were not allowed
to go. Topulu was employed by us in purchasing yams, pigs,
etc., required for the ship's use. We interviewed several of
the principal chiefs, and after first clothing each of them with
a fathom of print, we invited them down to breakfast. All
the natives here were as naked as the Duke of York islanders.
We had to employ Topulu as interpreter, and it was just
here that we encountered one of our big difficulties. I soon
saw that he had no desire whatever that we should come to
Matupit, or indeed to any part of New Britain. He, like all
Polynesians, was evidently very jealous of anything being done
which would give any other chiefs any greater importance than
they already possessed, as that would, in his opinion, detract

NEW BRITAIN

from his own position and lessen his influence. Then again
it was from New Britain that he drew a large portion of his
supplies of food, and the tortoise-shell which he sold again
to the ships calling at Duke of York ; so the old man was
not at all anxious for any ships to go to Blanche Bay, and
did his best to frighten any captains from doing so. He well
knew that Blanche Bay was a much better harbour than Port
Hunter, that supplies were much cheaper, and were much
more easily obtained there ; and he was shrewd enough to see
that if the place was made safe for ships they would prefer
to go there and buy for themselves, and so he himself would
suffer. That he was quite right in this, the present position
of Matupit as compared with Port Hunter is abundant proof.
No vessel ever goes near the latter port, but Matupit is now
the centre of a very large trade, and the fine steamers of the
N-D.L. berth at its large wharf every month.

The day after our arrival Mr. Fletcher and I landed on
Matupit, and walked round the island. The people received
us very kindly, and gave us some fish and taro. Topulu would
not risk the walk with us, but preferred to stay in the chiefs
house. He had been visiting Blanche Bay and the neighbour-
hood for many years, but never before had he dared to land
at Matupit, and most certainly would not have done so had
he not come in our company. The chief who accompanied us
round the island noticed this and said : " Missionary no come
Matupit, ah! Topulu he no come. Missionary come, oh I
Topulu he come. He go house belong Matupit." Such is a
sample of the best kind of English that was then spoken there
by the few who knew it. Matupit was very thickly populated,
and seemed to be a very healthy island. Captain Ferguson
told me that it was a comparatively recent upheaval, as some
of the oldest men remembered the time when no such island
existed. This was, I think, confirmed by the size of the
cocoanut trees, as they were all young trees, and appeared to
have been planted about the same time. There had recently
been a considerable sinking along the shore, amounting to

GEORGE BROWN

more than six feet in some places, so that it could scarcely
be considered to be a very safe dwelling place. We saw plenty
of women and children, and noticed particularly the almost
entire absence of elephantiasis and the loathsome scaly disease
which prevailed so much at Duke of York Island. I often
wondered whether the small number of cases of elephantiasis
was in any way owing to the people chewing the betel-nut so
much. I do not remember hearing of the disease being very
prevalent among any people who chewed the nut ; but whether
it is a preventive or not, I cannot say.

On Thursday, September 2, Mr. Fletcher, Mr. Walters, and
I started in the launch for Nodup, a village of which Tobula,
one of the men we met on board, was chief. We went inland
to several of the villages, but in each case had to sit outside
in the shade, as the houses were neither large enough nor
clean enough for us to sit inside. The enclosures, however,
in which the huts stood were in all cases scrupulously clean.
Whilst we were in the village, on the beach a quarrel took
place between the people of two villages, and at once spears,
slings, and stones were at work, and the women and children
were flying inland out of the way. Some of our party were
considerably alarmed, and one of them in particular was very
anxious that we should make a rush down to the boat, and
get away from such a dangerous place. I, however, could see
no sense in trying to get through such a crowd, as they were
between us and the boat. There was no great damage done,
I believe, only one man being wounded by a spear. The
incident, however, in addition to others which we had seen, quite
decided one of our party never to trust himself ashore in New
Britain again, and he never did.

On our return to the vessel we found a good many of the
crew very anxious to get away, as they were not at all pleased
with the appearance and conduct of the people, and I had
to speak very strongly on the matter. Some of them were
inclined to treat the men who crowded on board very roughly,
there was too much anxiety to secure curiosj and in some

NEW BRITAIN

instances very little was given in return. This, I saw, was
making the people angry. During the night some of the
natives came off, unknown to those on board, and made a lot
of hieroglyphics in chalk on the bows of the ship. Next
morning when these were seen some of our crew were very
much concerned as to what they meant, and as to what con-
sequences might ensue, and they were again very anxious to
get away. The matter was getting serious ; and I was quite
satis5ed that if the natives saw that we were all so frightened
of them when we were together, and in a large ship, it might
make it very dangerous for me when the others left for Sydney ;
and I told them so very decidedly. The captain asked me
at night when we should return to Port Hunter, and I told
him in the morning, which seemed to give great satisfaction.
About 2 a.ra., however, so far as I can remember, I woke up
and heard the anchor being got up, and the launch with steam
up ready to start. I asked the captain why such haste was
being made. He replied that I had toJd him that we should
go next morning. " Yes," I said, " but not before daylight,
at any rate." He still persisted in going at once, and then
I had to tell him that if he determined to go I would at
once go ashore and stay behind. I did this because I had
promised two chiefs that if they came on board early in the
morning I would give them each a present ; and as 1 had always
made it a rule never to break my word with a native, I
determined that I certainly would not begin then. I attribute
a good deal of the influence which I have had over natives
to the strict observance of this rule. The matter was, however,
finally settled by sending a boat on shore to wake up the chiefs
and bring them off to the ship, and I gave them the present
I had promised. We started just about dawn, and reached
Port Hunter at 3 p.m., having been towed over all the way
by the steam launch. Our good friend Captain Ferguson called
on us there, and very kindly supplied both the /oAh Wesley
and myself with stores.

On Monday, September 6, the John Wesley left us, having

GEORGE BROWN

been in the group about three weeks. Up to the time of her*]
leaving, neitlier of the men who had been engaged in Sydney tO;
help us with the launch and boats would consent to remain. They
had been very much frightened at the app>earance of the natives.
I had just finished my business matters with Captain Mansell^
and was on my way up from the cabin to go into the boat, when L
met an old sailor called Jack Holmes. He asked me who wasi
going to stay with me, and I replied, " No one." He said, " Wcil^
if no one will stay, I will stop." So I returned to the captainj
and asked him if he would allow old Jack to remain. He replied,!
" Yes." I then very gladly told Jack to go and get his thingsl
ready, and put them in the boat which was alongside. Jackj
went at once, and as I found out afterwards, he not only pud
his own things in the boat, but a great many other thingsj
which were not his at all. He laid hands on paints, brushes,
canvas, rope, needles, and a whole lot of other things belonging
to the ship, which he thought would come in useful, and quietly
passed them over the side whilst the captain was down below.
The most difficult thing that he had to hide was a big vice,
but he succeeded in taking this also. I was no partner in tlie
transaction, but I was very thankful many a time after>vards
that Jack had used his opportunity so well. When we got the
John Wesley outside we left her, and she started for Sydney with
a fine fair wind. I must confess that when we saw her leaving,'
knowing as we did that we were being left behind among such
a people, and that there was no probability of our being visited
again for twelve months, I had some very solemn thoughts. I
thought of my wife and children and other loved ones in the
homeland, and wondered if ever I should see them again. We
watched the ship until she was round Waira Point and out of
sight, and then went ashore to begin our work alone.

Captain Ferguson was very kind to us, and I should like
here to pay a tribute to the memory of one of the best men
that I have ever known in the Pacific. Both in Sydney and
in New Britain he did all that he could for us, and up to the day
when he was so cruelly murdered by the natives of Bougainville

NEW BRITAIN

Island I always felt honoured by his friendship. At this time
he took the steam launch in hand, got his engineer to fix up
the engine, and to give Jack and me some lessons in managing
it. I had very few stores left by the John IVes/ey, though
Captain Mansell very kindly did the best he could out of his
short stock. Captain Ferguson, however, gave me all he could
spare, and would take no payment at all except for some tea
and flour.

On Thursday, September 9, Captain Ferguson sailed, and
so we were left to ourselves, and began our regular work. At
this stage it would perhaps be well for me to give a short
account of the place and people amongst whom we laboured.

NEW BRITAIN GROUP (NOW NAMED BY GERMANY
BISMARCK ARCHIPELAGO)

THE

Of this fine group but little was known before the year
1875, when we landed there. Up to that time no trustworthy
information was obtainable either about the place or the people.
A trader called John Stevens had resided for some little time
at Port Hunter, in Duke of York, and some traders from
Messrs. Goddefroy & Sons had stayed for a few weeks on the
island of Matupit, in Blanche Bay. At the time of our landing
there were no white men living on any part of the group.

The New Britain Group is generally considered to include the
two large islands of New Britain and New Ireland, the smalt
group called the Duke of York Group, New Hanover, Sandwich,
Gerrit Denys, St. John's, Sir Charles Hardy's, and Fischer
Islands, and the Kaan Group, with a large number of outlying
islets. New Britain is separated from the north-east coast of
New Guinea by Rook Island, and a deep-sea channel about
fifty miles wide. Dampier's Straits is the name given to the
channel, through which that navigator sailed in the year 1700,
and so proved that New Britain was a separate island, and not
a part of New Guinea. Dampier called the whole group by the
one name of New Britain, and thought indeed that it was only

GEORGE BROWN

one main island ; but Cartaret in 1767 discovered St. George's
Bay (Dampier) to be a wide open strait varying from twenty to
thirty miles in width, which he named St George's Channel.

The earliest distinct notice of the discovery of any of the
New Britain Islands is to be found in the account of Le Maire
and Schonten's Voyages, in Dalrymplc's collection. These
navigators left Texel June 14, and Plymouth June 28, 1615,
On June 24, 1616, they sighted and named St. John's Island,
off Cape Santa Maria in New Ireland.

In 1643 Tasman saw St. John's Island, off New Ireland, on
March 30, and Cape St. Maria on April i. He also discovered
Anthony Kaan and Gerrit Denys Islands. New Ireland was
also visited by Commodore Roggewcin in 1721, but no new
discoveries were made.

On Monday, September 7, 1767, at English Cove, Gower
Harbour (Port Praslin), Captain Carteret, in H.M.S. Swallow,
" took possession of this country, with all its islands, bays, ports,
and harbours, for His Majesty George III., King of Great
Britain, and nailed upon a high tree a piece of board faced with
lead, on which was engraved the English Union, with the name
of the ship and her commander, the name of the cove, and the
time of the coming in and sailing out of it." Carteret also
discovered and named Duke of York Island, Cape Palliser,
Cape Stephens, Man Island, Sandwich Island, New Hanover»
the Portlands, and numerous other small islands.

Bougainville followed Carteret in 1768, and anchored in
a part of Gower Harbour (Carteret), which he named Port
Praslin. Here one of his crew found a piece of board faced
with lead, on which he read the remains of some English words,
from which he rightly inferred that an English ship had been-
there previously, and on further search they found the remains
of the English camp, and the tree on which Carteret had
nailed the board. " This," he says, " is a very strange chance,
by which we among so many lands came to the very spot
where rival nations had left a monument of an enterprise
similar to ours."

NEW BRITAIN 99

There seems to be no record of any visit to the group
from Bougainville in 1768 till Captain Hunter's arrival in 1791.
This latter gentleman on his way home from Sydney vtd
Batavia, in the Dutch transport, Waaksambeyd, passed through
St. George's Channel and anchored at Duke of York Island
in a harbour which still bears his name.

D'Entrecasteaux, in his search for the unfortunate La
Perouse, followed Hunter, arriving in Port Carteret in 1792,
and with his naturalist made some very interesting observations
then. He also passed through St. George's Channel on his
way to the Admiralty Group. Two French discovery vessels,
the Coquilie and the Astrolabe, also visited the group, the
former in 1823 and the latter in 1827.

These were the principal visitors up to the time of our
landing, though several small trading vessels occasionally called
at Duke of York Island and Ports Carteret and Praslin on New
Ireland, for the purpose of buying tortoise-shell and other
produce. The best known amongst these were the late Captain
Fei^[uson, who, as already stated, was subsequently murdered
at Bougainville Island, and Captain Brodie, whose schooner,
the Lavinia, was captured and burnt, and several men killed
at Port Praslin, a few months before we landed.

The flora is principally of the Indo-Malayan forms, very
few specimens of strictly Australian types being found. A
species of eucalyptus was found by us on the banks of a
river in Spacious Bay ; but the specimens of it were unfortunately
lost in transmission, and so could not be positively identified
by a competent botanist. The mountain sides are all covered
with dense forests interlaced with vines and creepers, and on
the flat lands these are in many parts so thick as to be almost
impenetrable. The shores of the many inlets on the coast
are often covered with mangroves, but trees of a very large
size abound on the coast and on the higher ranges. Palms
of many kinds, ferns, large orchids, tree ferns, pandanus,
bamboos, rattans, the paper mulberry, are also found, though
the latter plant is not much used by the natives. The islands

lOO

»RGE BROWN

are almost covered in many places with ginger and turmeric
plants, whilst the arrowroot is also very plentiful. The
cocoanut is plentiful in some places, but along many miles
of coast only a few clumps in detached spots can be seen.
The root from which the South Sea drink is made, usually
called "kava" (**yaqona" in Fiji), is found in New Britain, but
the natives do not use it, as they all chew the betel-nut They
cultivate large quantities of yams, taro, sweet potatoes, and
bananas. The orange, lemon, lime, custard, apple, guava, and
Chinese bananas were introduced by us in 1875, ^^^ fruit well.
The mango is indigenous in the group. Many very fine
varieties of crotoiis, coleus, and drsecena are found about the
native houses.

The fauna contains many of the Northern Australian forms
such as the wallaby {^Macropus Brownf), the cuscus, bandicoot,
{Peratnelcs Dorcyanus), the flying phaianger {Belidetis An'ef) ;
but no echidna have as yet been found. The wild pig is common,
as is also a species of dingo, which, however, is found only in
a domesticated state. Snakes and lizards abound, some of
which have not been previously reported from any other
country. As yet no venomous snake has been found, and the
natives at the northern end of the island deny that any such
exist. Rats and bats are in great variety. The avifauna,
like tliat of New Guinea, partakes both of the Northern
Australian and Indo-Malayan character ; but, unlike New
Guinea, it does not boast of any specimens of the birds of
Paradise. Previous to the year 1875 but little was known of
the natural history of this group. During the years following
1875 several collections were sent by me to England, a
description of which, by eminent naturalists, will be found in
the Proceedings of the Zoological Society, 1877-81. Of the
flora and fauna of the south and south-west coasts of New
Britain, however, but little is as yet known.

The temperature ranges from 78° to 90", very rarely indeed
falling so low as 74" ; the average temperature all the year
round is about 80". The atmosphere is very humid, and the

NEW BRITAIN

lOI

dew-fall very great. The natives assert that the monsoons
were formerly much more regular than they are now ; and in
this opinion they agree with that which is held by the natives
and European residents in Eastern Polynesia, who all assert
the same of the trade winds there. From December to May
the weather is often very squally, and the north-west monsoon
prevails. During these months the rainfall is exceptionally
heavy, a fact which particularly impressed some of the early
navigators. I have very frequently recorded a fall of four
inches in as many hours. The south-cast monsoon blows
very strongly from June to October, when a few weeks of
variable weather precede the setting in of the north-west weather.
The tides are very irregular, and seem to be much affected
by the prevailing wind and currents. There is only one tide
in the twenty-four hours. The flood-tide in the channel
between New Ireland and Duke of York sets to the north
along the coast of the latter island, and the ebb to the south.
During the whole of the north-west monsoon, or from the
end of November to the end of April, the current sets strongly
to the south-east. During some of these months, especially
January and February, it is often very strong indeed, and
the channel between Duke of York Group and New Ireland
is covered with trees, which, from the number and size of the
b«"imacles adhering to them, and the quantities of Crustacea
and fishes in and about them, must have been a long time
in the water. The current changes during the south-east
monsoon, setting north-west in that season.

The people amongst whom we laboured were of the sub-
Papuan or Melanesian family, of a black or sooty-brown colour,
with frizzly hair, which generally grows in thick, short, matted
curls, and is daubed with coloured clay or with lime. They have
a fair amount of beard, and are generally lank in form, and not
so tall or well formed as the Eastern Polynesians are. Their
language is full and expressive, and, unlike that of the people
in the eastern groups, is full of close syllables. The dialects
are very numerous indeed, almost every district having a

I02

GEORGE BROWN

separate one, and these in some instances, so far as the vocabu-
lary is concerned, almost constitute separate languages, as the
people in some parts cannot be understood by those living, it
may be, only a very few miles away.

With regard to the controversy as to the origin of these
peoples, I can merely state the conclusions I myself have
arrived at, I think it is extremely likely that there was
originally one great race occupying these different groups as far
west as Borneo, and probably extending upon the mainland
on the side of Siam, the Malacca Peninsula, and perhaps as
far as Burmah. The traces of this race are or have been
found in all the different groups, from the black peoples found
in New ZeaJand by the original Maori settlers, and derisively
called by them " black kumara " (sweet potato), to Western
Malaysia, and also on the mainland. In Malaysia this pre-
Malayan race, which was, I think, of Turanian origin, was
modified by admixture with the Aryan races of the mainland
of Asia, and this constituted the present Eastern Polynesian
race, which stili retains so much of its old Papuan element.
After this 1 think it likely that the emigration eastwards set
in, probably caused, as Judge Fornander states, by the en-
croachment of Malay and Hindu immigration. I am of
opinion, however, that the Polynesian is Papuan, with Asiatic
admixtures, and that there is no difficulty, either in the language
or the manners and customs of the people, in considering them
both as descendants from one common stock, of which the
Papuan or Melanesian is the oldest representative.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN
AND NEW IRELAND

The record of our life during the first two or three years
is naturally an interesting one to myself, but I think it will be
more useful to the general reader if I give in the first place
an account of the earlier journeys we made in connection with
the opening up of our work, together with some of the incidents
connected therewith.

A great difficulty which confronted us in those early days
was the isolation in which the people generally lived. It is
scarcely credible now that the people of two villages living so
close to each other as did the Outam and Molot people, who
were our nearest neighbours, should never have any intercourse
with each other. Outam was about three miles from our
house, which was quite close to Molot, and yet I could not
for a long time get any of the Molot people to go with me to
Outam, nor would they dare to pass in a boat along the beach in
front of that village except we went a long way out to sea. I felt
from the very first that one great object of our work would be
to break up this isolation ; and in doing this we found the steam
launch Henry Reed of invaluable service. The people were
generally ready to go in her, and when we got them on board
we took them just where we wished them to go. They were
of course terribly frightened, but they soon found that the
people with whom they had been at enmity all their lives were
not so bad as they had feared when they met them on

105

io6

GEORGE BROWN

neutral ground. It was often quite amusing to see how their
mutua! distrust and fear gradually passed away after they had
had food and betel-nut together.

Our first visit was to a village called Waira, about six miles
away from Port Hunter. The chief, Liblib, received us very
well, and took me all round his villages. He professed to be
very willing indeed to receive a teacher, and promised to visit
me and talk the matter over. He showed me the skull of the
previous chief, which he carefully preserved in his house. The
body of the chief of Urukuk, who was killed in the same
quarrel in which the boy Teem that I brought from Sydney
lost his life, I saw in a tree just in front of Liblib's house ; in
fact, it was perceptible to smell as well as to sight. They
bury the common people at sea, but the chiefs are placed in
canoes, and hoisted up amongst the branches of some large tree.
It was a great disappointment to us when Teem was killed, a
few weeks after our arrival. He was a boy belonging to Port
Hunter whom I got from Captain Ferguson in Sydney, and we
hoped much that he would be of great service to us as an
interpreter. I never found out exactly what he was killed for.

On September 25 we started for Meoko. This is a fine
harbour at the eastern end of the island. It has now been for
some years one of the principal trading stations in the group,
and it is in this place that our native training institution at UIu
is placed. It seems almost incredible now that our journey to that
place was considered at that time to be so very dangerous. I
got our chief Waruwarum to go with me, and act as interpreter,
for the Meoko people spoke a different language or dialect from
the Port Hunter natives, and had little or no communication
with them. My crew, as usual, were very frightened, and as
they positively refused to land, I hoped that a white man who
was in our party would land with me ; but he also refused, and
so real appeared to be the danger to them all that they would
not even anchor the launch whilst I went on shore. I went
up alone, and interviewed the old chief, Guriraram. I found,
him to be a very nice old man, and very friendly indeed.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 107

Captain Ferguson had told them about me, and so had prepared
the way for my friendly reception. I arranged vritti the old
chief to visit me at Port Hunter. He promised to do so, but he
never kept his promise in that matter. I always liked to get
the people to visit us, not only because it helped to break down
the state of isolation in which most of these little tribes lived,
but also because it gave me the opportunity of showing them a
little kindness. They also saw our teachers who were present
at our services, and could learn for themselves the kind of house
I wanted built for the teacher. I quite liked the appearance
both of place and people, and decided to put Meoko down
on the first list of stations.

Our next visit outside our own district was to New Ireland.
I cannot give any correct idea of the great trouble we always
had whenever I wished to leave home. The people professed
to be very much afraid that I should be killed, and that they
would be held responsible for my death ; and they took care to
bring to us every story which they received, or which they
professed to have received, with regard to the intentions of the
people whom we were going to visit. Before going on this
journey Waruwarum came and told me that he had just
received most definite information from New Britain natives
that the Matupit people were determined that they would fight
the steam launch the next time we went over there. It was
extremely difficult to decide as to what amount of importance
we should attach to these tales. We well knew that the Duke
of York people did not wish us to go to Matupit, because they
were jealous of that place, and thought that if Blanche Bay was
rendered safe, by the people being made friendly to whites, all
the ships would go there for supplies, and so their trade and
importance would be decreased. On the other hand, these
repeated tales naturally left an uncomfortable impression on the
mind, and we could not help feeling that though they were
either unfounded or very much exaggerated, yet if any accident
should happen we should be accused of presumption and folly

io8

GEORGE BROWN

in acting tn oppositicm to the warnings which had been given
to us. It is very easy to call a man foolhardy because he went
after being definitely warned of the consequences of doing so,
but I am speaking quite within the mark when I say that if we
had gone only to places of which we were not warned, we
should rarely have left the mission station at alL I wrote in
my journal at this time : " I do not believe the tales they
tell us about Matupit, but I shall not press the location of a
teacher there just now. Our best plan is to enter the open
door, and wait quietly until those which now appear closed are
open to us. The people will soon see that it b to their interest
to get us among them."

At 6 a.m. on October 5 we started on our first visit to this
large island. We had rather a nasty sea in the channel when
we left Port Hunter ; but as the wind was yell abeam, we set
the sail and headed right across for the nearest point of the
island, so as to get well in with the land before attempting to
steam to windward. We did this in the hope of finding
smoother water and more shelter along the coast than we should
have in mid-channeL The launch worked very well indeed,
towing our whale-boat, and making good progress, though only
under a low pressure of steam. I had by this time every con-
fidence in Jack being well able to manage her, and I myself
was able to attend to the engine when he was busy at any
other work. We made the coast in about three hours after
leaving Port Hunter, and then steamed in an easterly direction
along the land, keeping close to the beach all the way. For
several miles on this part of the island there were no natives
living on the beach. The interior of the island is inhabited,
but the people have little or no communication with the villages
on the seashore. After going a mile or two we landed on a
beach which was evidently of comparatively recent formation, in
fact it was simply a bar of water-worn shingle brought down by
the river and then piled up across its mouth by the heavy swell
from the prevailing wind. This had caused the river to form a
large lagoon, which was extending continuously to the eastward,

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 109

as every fresh outlet made by the river was being blocked up
by the surf, and so the river's course was diverted farther
eastward. The lagoon was a very extensive one, but we saw no
signs of any natives living on its banks. The land in that part
was high, and broken to the seashore, except where some flat
land seemed to indicate a river deposit. We saw no large river,
but a great number of small streams found their way to the sea
along this part of the coast We noticed no mangrove swamps ;
the water is quite deep close inshore, and in ordinary weather it
is quite easy to land on any part of the coast, though about
mid-day there is a nasty surf on some parts which are exposed
to the prevailing wind. The beach is composed of water-worn
shingle and gravel, with much conglomerate containing fossils
and stone, resembling granite with quartz veins in it. There
are no coral reefs at all in this part.

About I p.m. we reached Batigoro, and very glad we were
to see the natives quite friendly. I had taken Liblib and
I>ukduk, two influential chiefs from Waira, and Waruwarum, from
Port Hunter with us ; and as they were well known here, we had
a very good introduction to the people. Previous to leaving I
had fully instructed these chiefs as to our object in coming and
the plans we intended to adopt, and so we not only had the
benefit of landing under their protection, but it was much easier
to acquaint the natives with our object in visiting them than it
would have been had we come alone. After engaging some
men to take off water for the launch, I walked to the village,
which is about a mile from the anchorage. We were taken to
a large house in the centre of the village. This house was
built without eaves, the rafters reaching from the ground to the
ridge pole and, meeting those from the other side, formed a
semicircle. Along the sides and down the centre of the house
were raised wooden benches, which form seats by day and beds
by night. These large houses are occupied at night by the
unmarried men only, those who are married having separate
houses in the village. A string of pigs' claws ornamented one
end of the house, and spears, etc., were hung all about the roof.

I lO

GEORGE BROWN

Some human skulls were suspended from a tree outside. The
people were very quiet and friendly, and I especially liked the
appearance of the women and children. They were very quiet
and unobtrusive, and all the women and girls wore a leaf or
small piece of cloth, which, small as it was, showed that they
had some sense of modesty, a virtue of which our Duke of
York ladies appeared to be totally deficient.

About sunset I went on board, and the chiefs coming off
with a present of food, 1 had a long talk with them. We had
no reason to be apprehensive of danger, but we thought it best
to keep watch ; and so the three teachers and I divided the
task, the early morning watch falling to my share. Our sleeping
accommodation amongst the coals and firewood was not so
very comfortable as to make it a very great sacrifice to leave
it for awhile. Before I had to go on watch I had turned over a
great many times, and had come to the conclusion that the
board on which I was lying was formed of the very hardest
piece of Sydney " hardwood." Often did I wish that my
bones had been better covered than they were, or that 1 had a
softer plank to lie upon.

Next day, October 6, we started again at daylight, and made
good progress during the hot, calm hours of the early morning.
We passed several villages, where the chiefs on board wished to
stay, but I refused to do so until I had first seen the chief
Tomum, to whom Topulu (King Dick) specially directed me to
go. I well knew that the chiefs only wished me to call for
some little peddling transactions of their own, and I was
unwilling to run the risk of offending Tomum by calling on
all the inferior chiefs first. We first stopped at a place called
Dilout, and found Tomum there gathering cocoanuts ; and here
again I found that the chiefs on board were trying to lead me
astray for their own purposes. They wished to sleep at this
place, and so told me that we could arrange with Tomum here
just as well as at his own place, as this was one of his villages ;
but on going on shore I found that Tomum would not be at all
pleased if we stayed, as he wanted us to go on to his own house.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN iii

On hearing this, I at once decided to go, and after resting for
an hour or two, we steamed on with Tomum's canoe in tow, to
Kail, where he resides.

In the evening I made the old man a few presents, and tore
up a few yards of gaudy print into small pieces and gave one
to each of the women and girls. After tea I went on shore
again, and there, sitting on the ground in front of Tomum's
house, in the still, quiet, moonlit night, and surrounded by a
goodly number of people, I tried to tell them a little about the
One God, and Father of all, the heaven which He has prepared
for those who love Him, and the hell which they may shun by
the acceptance of that Gospel which we declared unto them.
I spoke most about the love of God, and of the great and
glorious privileges of the religion of Jesus, and also tried to
show them the temporal advantages which would accrue from
the civilising and enlightening effects of Christianity. Waru-
warum and Liblib acted as interpreters, and, as far as I could
judge, they succeeded very well. The people were very
attentive, and Tomum promised to visit me and to receive a
teacher.

Next morning Tomum made us a small return present of
yams, etc, and then we left Kail about i p.m. I walked down
the coast for the first two miles, as I wished to see the river
Topaia, which gives its name to this district. After leaving the
river we called at a place called King, leaving there Tomamara,
the chief of that place. Towards evening we stopped at a large
village called Waatpi, chiefs name Balan. Here we had the
inevitable Dukduk or dancing mask affair again. I noticed
here that all people outside kept clear of the masked figures, as
they have the privilege of beating or stoning any who came in
their way. After a stroll through the village 1 went on board
the launch. Two of our lads stayed on shore to cook the pig.
After we left for Port Hunter, our natives told me that some of
the Waatpi natives were seen poising spears at the lads as they
were cooking. I think, however, this must have been only in
jest, as the chief was on board the launch at the time, and was

tt2

GEORGE BROWN

very friendly. And then it was rather a suspicious sign that
they did not tell me of this until we had left Waatpi. In
receiving native tales I found that I must always guard against
the danger of utterly discrediting every tale they tell against
people with whom they do not wish us to form any alliance.

On October 8 we started from Waatpi at 4 a.m, and reached
Port Hunter at 9 a.m. I felt very tired but very thankful that
this our first visit to New Ireland had ended so well

Sunday, October 10, Feni preached in the morning. At
noon I held a meeting with the teachers to tell them about our
visit to New Ireland, and also to tell them about the opening
on New Britain, as 1 obula, the chief of Nodup, had come over
and asked to have a teacher appointed to his village After
telling them about the two islands I asked who would go, as I
did not wish to appoint any but volunteers. All were willing.
I was very much pleased with the teachers. At 4 p.m. we
held a prayer-meeting instead of our usual afternoon preaching,
and earnest and hearty were the prayers which were offered up
for those who are about to proceed as the advanced guard to
the larger island of New Britain, where Satan had so long
reigned supreme.

I
I

October 12, left Port Hunter at 6 a.m., called at Makada
for water, and left there at 8.1$ a.m. for Nodup, New
Britain, taking with us Tobula, the chief of that village.
We had a fine passage across. Our little steamer worked
well, landing us at Nodup about n a,m. When we landed,
there was a great crowd on the beach, and we soon saw
that it was an exciting affair for the natives. After being
introduced to some of the chiefs and their wives, the chief
Tobula led the way to the house he had prepared for the
teachers, and 1 was at once surprised and pleased to find a very
nice large house built in a fine position upon a most suitable
piece of land. The house was larger than any which they build
for themselves, and with its three steeples gaily ornamented with
streamers and feathers, really looked very well indeed. The

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 113

people gathered round, and wc could easily see that there must
be a considerable population in this part of the island. After
resting awhile, I gave the chief a present, which was considered
by him as payment for the house he had built. After this there
was a great display of bananas, and the chief and his brother
Tokarupa distributed shell money and bananas to ali the chiefs
who had helped to build the house. All passed off well, and
the people who went with us were quite surprised at our
reception. My own heart was full, and 1 longed to be able to
get away into the bush to weep for very thankfulness. As it
was, I could only lift my heart with thanksgivin;^ to God for
His goodness, and ask Him to bless this the first attempt to
introduce the Gospel to this people.

After buying some yams, and arranging for some men to
cut firewood for the launch, I determined to go with Towal,
one of the principal chiefs, to visit his place that evening, as
coals and time were precious, and I wished to do all the work
I could whilst we had steam up. We found it much farther
away than we expected, as his village is quite at the end of
the island, close to Uatam, or Man Island. I landed expecting
that the chiefs house was near the beach, but found that the
road went a considerable way inland, describing a semicircle
before bringing us to the chiefs village, which was situated on
the top of a very high perpendicular cliff, some distance down
the coast. I talked to him, and to the crowd which gathered
round us, about our object in coming to them, and then, as it
was nearly dark, I started to go, as I did not wish to be
benighted in the bush road. 1 found, however, that my com-
panion, Waruwarum, was deep in some trading transaction
about a hatchet, and so we were detained some time longer,
as I did not wish to offend him by going away at once. The
Duke of York natives are inveterate traders and pedlars. They
buy and sell continually from each other, and their social
customs in that respect are totally unlike those of any Polynesians
with whom I am acquainted. The launch could not anchor
here, as the water was too deep outside, and the reef too shallow,

114

GEORGE BROWN

but we got aboard in a native canoe, and then started away
for Nodup, and had a pleasant run back by moonlight. On
our arrival there I determined to go on shore and sleep in the
teachers' house to encourage them a little, but I found them
all fast asleep, so I just slung my hammock as well as I could
in the crowded house, and lay down with a thankful heart,
secure in the assurance of God's watchful care over us.

Next day Toporapora and Tolingling, the two chiefs from
Matupit, whom we met there on board the John Wesley, came
to see me. They had been fighting there ; and as there were
some who were opposed to the appointment of a teacher, I
decided not to attempt to force one upon them, but to leave
Ratu Livai and Peni at Nodup together, until some suitable
opening presented itself.

There were no large villages here. Every family seemed to
have a separate enclosure containing five or six houses, and
these were scattered all about the bush. The enclosures were
kept scrupulously clean and, in that respect, were much superior
to those in tlie Duke of York Island, as well as in the size
and make of their houses.

After waving farewell to the two noble fellows and their
wives, whom we had left to do God's work there, we started
for Matupit, at which place I was determined to show ourselves,
notwithstanding the protest of the chiefs and natives who came
with us from Port Hunter. I was very much troubled about
that place. It was one of the most important points, and one
which we should occupy as soon as possible, yet the way
seemed blocked up, and I did not think it wise to try to
force an entrance. Matupit is a small but very populous island
in Blanche Bay, quite close to the anchorage, and from its
central position was admirably suited for the headquarters
of the mission in that part of New Britain, as al! the villages
in Blanche Bay and Simpson's Harbour, as well as those
near Nodup and the end of the island, are easily accessible
from there. Before leaving Port Hunter I went to Topulu to
ask his advice about it, and he was decidedly against our

I
I

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 115

attempting to place a teacher there ; but then he was jealous
of the place. However, as we were towing Toporapora and
his crew, in their canoe, I determined to go close enough to
the island, to give the people a chance of communicating with
us, as 1 felt pretty certain, from my knowledge of native
character, that they would feel themselves insulted if we passed
them by and were to visit other places.

We passed close to the place where Lieutenant Praed and
party of H.B.M.S. Blanche had an encounter with the natives
some time before. They went to investigate the truth of a
report that a white woman was kept in captivity by the natives.
The natives here assured me that she was only an albino.

As we steamed up Blanche Bay there was some considerable
excitement on board the launch. All the natives and one
of our company objected to call at Matupit, and positively
refused to go round the bay, stating that we should all be
murdered if we went near any of the villages on the opposite
shore. They were clamorous for an immediate return to Port
Hunter. I reasoned with them, telling them that they had
their own arms in case of any attack, a good steam launch
and whale-boat, and that I did not intend to anchor or land
anywhere, but simply to examine the coast, and try to open
communication with the people ; but 'twas all in vain. J. Holmes
was the only one who at all held with me that, by taking
proper precautions, we might go with comparative safety. I
then quietly told the chief VVaruwarum, and all on board,
that I was determined to go, whether they went or not ; that
there was only one man who was captain, and that I would
do as I thought right. I reminded them that before leaving
Port Hunter I had told them where I meant to go, and that
I had especially warned Waruwarum, whom I knew to be an
arrant coward, not to come with us if he was afraid to go
round Blanche Bay. I told them, however, that I did not
wish to take any one against his will, and that I would therefore
land all who wished to stay with Toporapora at Matupit,
and that any one who wished to return to Nodup could be

GEORGE BROWN

landed on the opposite side of the bay. This, however, did
not suit them, as they were afraid of being killed if they
left us. Then there was a regular mutiny, and one of the
two whites who were with us jumped up with a musket in
his hand, and came to me in a threatening attitude, saying
that they were determined not to go, and that they would not
have their lives sacrificed for me or for any other missionary.
I had of course to talk to him in a very decided manner. Then
I heard that they had all agreed to haul up the whale-boat we
were towing alongside the launch, and to return in her to Port
Hunterj leaving Jack and myself alone. Speaking in Fijian, I
told the two teachers who were in charge of the boat not to
come near the launch, nor to allow any native to get into heron
any pretext, and that if any attempts were made to haul the
boat alongside they were to cut " the painter," and I would
pick them up afterwards. I also told the men in the launch
that if they did succeed in getting the whale-boat I would
run her down. This may appear to be strong talk, but the
occasion was a critical one, and made decided action ver>'
necessary. After this we kept on our course, but, in deference
to their fears, I resolved to compromise matters and not to
stop at Matupit except just to land Toporapora and his crew.
This we didj steaming close to the island, and for a considerable
distance around it, without seeing the slightest signs of hostility.
The only suspicious circumstance I noticed was that no
canoes came off. Whether they would have come had we
anchored or waited long enough, 1 cannot tell.

After leaving Matupit we steamed right across Simpson's
Harbour, All the natives were sulky except one or two, and
regaled me with talcs of the ferocity and cannibalism of the
people whose villages we were so rapidly nearing. They
told us of four Mioko men being killed and eaten a short
time ago by the people right ahead, and one of them told
me that he was with Captain Bennett when his ship was
attacked by these same people. All the way across I reasoned
this matter over and over in my own mind. I could not help

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 117

feeling anxious after hearing all these tales, but still, after
calm and prayerful consideration, I felt that I was justified
in the action I was taking. I was well aware that there
was some risk, but I knew that it was grossly exaggerated
by the cowardly fellows we had with us, and I felt that if
we did not make some use of the launch beyond going to
places where we might go as easily and as safely in a canoe,
it was of little use our having the steamer at all. I felt also
that it was very important that we should, at all events, show
ourselves to the natives and have some little communication
with them, that they might get some idea as to what our
objects were, and that the way might be opened for a better
acquaintance at a future time. I wanted also to get some
idea of the number of people, and of their friendliness or
otherwise. These and other similar reasons seemed suiHcient
to justify me in going, even against the advice of the natives
I had with me.

As we neared the shore a large number of natives came out
in canoes to meet us. Our natives were greatly excited, and
begged me most earnestly to keep away from the coast, but
we kept on our course until the leading canoe was close to
us, when I stopped the engine, and waited for the people to
come up. On going forward to see that all was right, I saw
Waruwarum with a large horse-pistol of his own ready cocked
in his hand ; this I at once made him cover up out of sight,
as I had positively forbidden all display of arms. He was
very unwilling to do so, but yielded under pressure. As the
first canoe came alongside, my mind was at ease at once — at
all events as to any premeditated attack — on seeing three
nice little children in the canoe. Natives will not bring
children with them if they intend any mischief, though, of
course, accidents may happen, and a little thing may cause
a quarrel at any time. I made the men a present of a little
tobacco, and put a few beads round the children's necks ; then,
as more canoes came up, we hauled the whale-boat alongside
the launch, on the seaward side, and made all canoes keep to the

GEORGE BROWN

other side between us and the shore. These were precautionary
measures which it was well to take ; but I believe the natives
never thought of anything but selling their fish, yams, etc.
I bought everything they brought, whether we wanted it or
not, >\'ith the exception of tortoise-shell, as I had determined
not to buy any of that article from the natives at that time,
not even a little for private use, as I wished both natives
and traders to understand that we were not there for trading
purposes ; and though it would have been easy to assure the
traders of the fact, the only way to convince a native that we
did not trade in the article was to refuse to buy it altogether
After we had got through most of the bartering, we managed
to get them to keep quiet for a while, and I got Toliiuru to
interpret as 1 explained what our subject and intentions were.
I then put what 1 am sure was the first fathom of print he
ever wore round the chief, who was the only one allowed to
come on board ; and after inviting him to come over to Port
Hunter to see me, we turned ahead, and said good-bye. Some
of the canoes followed us for some distance, as the men very
much wished us to land- As we steamed along the coast
the natives came in crowds and made motions for us to go
on shore, some waving green leaves, a sign of amity, and
beckoning with the hand. One old lady ran into the water
and waved a fishing-net, appealing thus to our appetites, as
other means had proved ineffectual. Another woman, who
I think must have seen or heard of us when we were at Matupit
with the /o/tn Wesley, called out several times, " Missionary !
Missionary ! "

We passed several large villages, which seemed to be built
on a different plan to those we saw at Nodup, as the houses
were built all in one plnce, much the same as in Samoan or
Fijian villages, instead of in separate enclosures. The name
of the large village was Diwaon. I would gladly have stopped
to hold a little communication with the people, but the slightest
hint of such an intention produced such expressions of dissent
that I thought it best to abandon it ; and, mentally vowing

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 119

to have a better crew next time, I steered for Nanup and
Palakauru, two small uninhabited islands, on one of which
we proposed to pass the night We found a shallow reef
round both of them, and in trying to get near Palakauru
the launch grounded for a few minutes. We got her off, and
then went down to the smaller island, and anchored outside.
I went on shore in the whale-boat, and walked round the island
just before sunset. On reviewing the events of this long day,
I felt heartily glad that I had carried out my original plans,
as we had, at all events, opened communication with those
populous villages, and had proved that with the ordinary pre-
cautions which should always be observed in visiting savage
races, the New Britain people might be visited with comparative
safety.

Next day, about 2 a.m., we were all awaked by those on
watch, who reported a number of canoes filled with men close
at hand. Of course there was great excitement among our
" braves." We could see the canoes distinctly and could
hear the voices of the men, but, seeing us at anchor, they
passed on to the island where we had first tried to land,
and we soon saw the large fires they lit when they landed.
We concluded that they had come to look for turtle, as these
two islands form a regular fishing-ground for that animal.
As natives from another part of the coast may be there at the
same time, the fishing-parties always came in great numbers,
so as to be able to dispossess any occupants they might find,
or to maintain their own position if attacked. Our natives
were dreadfully frightened again ; and as I felt certain that a
good watch would be kept, I lay down again and slept as
quietly as I could until daylight Just before sunrise we pre-
pared to go on shore to the island nearest to us, but before we
got far from the launch we saw the canoes coming off from the
other island, and so we returned at once. As soon as we got
on board we got the anchor up and hoisted our sail, as we did
not like the idea of ten canoes filled with men coming near us
so early in the morning, especially as we knew that they were

I20

"GEORGE BROWN

away from their own village. Our Duke of York natives,
as usual, were very much excited, and declared most positively
that they meant to fight us. I, of course, could not say that
they did not mean to do so ; and as I was anxious to avoid
any chance of collision, and as there was nothing to be gained
by staying, I thought it best to get away as quickly as possible.
But on calm consideration I was inclined to think it very
doubtful that they really meant to attack us. It is likely that
they were natives from some of the villages near to those
we had visited, and that they simply wished to look at the
steamer, or to trade. 1 formed this opinion for the following
reasons : (i) They called out the name of their chief as they
passed us in the night. (2) They returned at once to shore
when we made sail ; and on landing I could see very few
spears among them ; nor did they dance or make any hostile
demonstration, as they would have done had they meant to
fight us, and we had run away. We called at Nakukuru,
and I saw the chief and people, and arranged for their paying
me a visit. We then steamed home direct, and so ended our
first trip in the steam launch to New Britain.

I was very thankful that we had succeeded in locating
our teachers on the island which 1 feared would prove the
most difficult of all. We had certainly been blessed beyond
our most sanguine anticipations. The people were as friendly
as possible, and no teachers could ever have been located
under more favourable circumstances than those under which
Ratu Livai and Penisimani Thaumea were left by us on the
shores of New Britain.

A few days after this we had a great surprise. On
October i S " Sail ho ! sail ho ! " rang out from the natives
in all directions. I went up to the hill at the back of our
house, and made out a briganttne bcatiny; up to the port. As
soon as she got near we went out in the whale-boat and found
her to be the Coeran, Captain Hernsheim, from Hong-kong,
vid the Carolines. They were somewhat surprised to find a
missionary in those parts. Some of the natives had told them

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 121

already that there was a white man living on the island, and
they had been greatly puzzled to know who he was, as the
natives had told them over and over again, as a wondrous
thing, that he bought no tortoise-shell or b^che-de-mer, but only
yams and taro for " kaikai " (food). This showed that we were
right tn refusing to buy even a small piece of tortoise-shell.

On October 21, at 4 p.m., we left Port Hunter in the
steam launch ; our party consisting of Captain Hernsheim, of
the brigantine Coeran, Mr. Blohm, a passenger in the same
vessel, and myself, with Jack, two Port Hunter lads, and two
Fijian teachers, as crew. We had a good run across to Nodup,
and found Ratu Livai in good health and spirits, surprised
to see us again so soon, but none the less pleased to welcome
us. Captain H. bought a lot of yams for his vessel, saw the
two chiefs, made them each a present, and asked them to
be kind to the teachers, and to any white men who might visit
them, and wish to trade with them.

After leaving Nodup we steered for Blanche Bay, as we
wished to test the truth of the tales the Duke of York men
and some New Britain men had been constantly telling us
about the hostile intentions of the people of Matupit or
Henderson Island. The last time I was there, as I have men-
tioned, I was prevented from landing by the fears of my crew ;
but I had never felt satisfied in my own mind that I did
right in yielding to them ; and as Captain H. and party
very much wished to see the place, I thought it was a good
opportunity to visit them. When we got near the island
my old friend Toporapora, the chief I had met several times at
our house and elsewhere, came out into the water and took
me on his back, and we landed and went up into the village
without seeing the slightest sign of any hostile intention.
Toporapora and Tolingling brought us a small present of yams,
and then I asked them to get all the principal men together,
as we wished to talk to them. Tliis they did, and after a con-
siderable time had been spent in trying to get them to keep

123

GEORGE BROWN

quiet, I said a few words to them. I told them of our stationing
two teachers at Nodup, one of whom we intended for some
other place as soon as possible. I told them we did not
wish to force a teacher on them, and that if they simply said
they did not want one, we should certainly not send him. I
told them as well as I could of the many advantages which
would accrue to them from the residence of a teacher among
them, and showed them the folly, in a temporal sense, of their
acting in hostility to any whites who might wish to visit them.
I said that we had fully intended to place a teacher with
them, but that we had not done so because we heard that
one party on the island had threatened to burn his house,
as they did that of the two white men who were there some
two years ago. Here I was interrupted several times by them
saying : " Oh, Duke of York man he talk gammon belong (i.e. to)
you, plenty gammon, plenty too much gammon. What for make
fight ? No make fight Pate, pate, pate (No, no, no). No make
fight." There was something not at all clear to us about the
expulsionof those two white men from that place. If the natives
had really wished to kill them they could certainly have done
so. Had they wished to prevent their escape they could easily
have destroyed their whale-boat ; yet the men were allowed
to leave with, I believe, a con.siderable part of their property
whilst their house was in flame.s, and they got safely away
to Port Hunter, after killing three or five of the natives.
Toporapora, the chief, showed me the marks of two severe
wounds he received in defending them. One of the spears
went through his thigh, and another inflicted a very nasty
wound on his breast ; it must have glanced off one of his ribs,
and so his life was saved. Captain Hernsheim made him a
present of an American axe, etc., for his kindness to these men,
and Captain Ferguson, I believe, had previously given him a
present for the same reason.

And now the question was, What about Matupit? We had
been told that they were a fierce and savage people, worse than
any others in these parts ; that they threatened to attack us

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PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 123

even when the John Wesley was here ; that they were in ambush
ready to attack us last week if we had ventured to land ; that
they were opposed to a teacher being sent, and that they would
burn his house if he were appointed. But, then, on the other
hand, we had reason to suspect that they who told us these
tales were actuated by feelings of jealousy. We knew also
that the chief and people had, at all events, always appeared
to be very friendly whenever we had met them ; that
Toporapora and Tolingling were both at Nodup when we
located the teacher there, and were very friendly indeed ; that
they had been there since we left last week ; had taken a
present of food to the teachers, and had asked one of them
to come and live at Matupit. We knew also with regard to
one of the tales that, as we passed the island last week, we
could not see any signs of hostility, as there were plenty of
boys and children on the beach, though, of course, there may
have been men in ambush among the houses, as King Dick
told us there were. I did not, however, believe there were any,
and I pretty well knew that King Dick's only authority for
that tale was Tologon, an old half-blind chief, of Makada, who
was with us on the launch, but who could not see halfway
to the shore, and must have made up for his imperfect vision
by the liveliness of his imagination. Then again, we had been
received very kindly, and had been repeatedly assured that
they would gladly receive any teacher who might be sent to
them. I asked Captain H. what his opinion was, and he gave
it in a most decided and emphatic manner that wc ought to
send a teacher at once. As this agreed also with my own
opinion, I told them to go ahead with the house ; and they
said they would begin next day. I, myself, should not have
felt the slightest hesitation in going to live there, and I did
not think that I should have incurred any very great danger
in doing so. I regarded Matupit as by far the most important
station we could take up, as, from its central position and
nearness to the anchorage, it must always be the headquarters
of the mission in this part of New Britain.

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GEORGE BROWN

From Matupit we stood across Simpson's Harbour to the
west side of Blanche Bay, as I wished to visit Karavia. Karavia
was another of those places against which we were specially
warned ; and here again we came to the conclusion that either
the desires or the imagination of the natives had supplied
them with the tales and facts with which they tried to prevent
us visiting places where they did not wish us to go, or that,
thinking or knowing that the people of these places would
fight them if they went there, they took it for granted that
they would do the same with us. After we landed I made
a few presents of beads, etc., to tlie chief, bought some yams,
just to please the people, talked to them for awhile, invited
them over to see us, and then went on board again, as it was
near sunset, and we wished to get our bearings for Duke of
York Island before dark. As we steered along the coast,
canoe after canoe came out, and we always stopped for a few
minutes for them, buying a little from each if we could, simply
from a desire to be friendly. Though many of the things
bought were of no value, I thought it far better to use a
few articles of barter in this way than to begin a system of
indiscriminate present-giving. At one time we had twenty-
eight canoes around us. One mean fellow stole my bunch
of keys from my portmanteau, for which I had to pay to get
them back. We reached Port Hunter at midnight. Captain
Hernsheim tempted me very much whilst he was with us
by offering me a free passage to Sydney. It was a great
temptation, as I was not at all well, and longed to see my
wife and children again ; but I managed to say " No," and
I felt very much easier in my mind after I had done so. I
could not bear the thought of leaving the teachers alone even
for a short time.

On October 27, 1875, we again started for New Ireland.
We had a good run over to the coast, and landed near the
mouth of a river, but found the coast line there quite uninhabited.
There was formerly a large population, but they had all been

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 125

driven far inland by the Duke of York natives. After resting
for about an hour, we went on to Kalil, a large town quite
close to the beach. We stayed there a short time, and I gave
the chiefs a little hint about preparing us some food when they
saw us again. We then went on to Kabanut, but did not land,
as there was a nasty surf running. We also passed the village
of Tukul for the same reason, and anchored about a mile farther
on, near a large waterhole. A large crowd of natives soon
collected, and we employed six of them to water the steamer.
Mr. Blohm and I landed, and went a short distance inland to
see the country. On our return to the beach we were a little
uneasy at seeing so many natives assembled, all heavily armed,
and with spare bundles of spears. I did not notice this until
Mr. B. directed my attention to it, and then I certainly did not
like their appearance, but we kept walking quietly on right
into the midst of the crowd, and I began to barter with them
for spears, etc., at once. I believe that our fears were quite
groundless as to any intention of the natives to injure us. The
normal state of society seemed to be one of constant warfare
with all the inland tribes and with many of those in the
adjoining districts on the coast, and no man stirred from his
house without his spear, or a bundle of them, in his hand, ready
for action. There was no doubt at all about the cannibalism
of the people, in fact, they made no secret at all about it. Most
of the spears had a human leg- or arm-bone on one end, and
when I asked my interpreter where all these bones came from,
he replied, " Oh man belong salt water he fight man belong
bush. He kaikai (eat) him. He catch him bone he go belong
spear. All same this fellow place," which last sentence means,
such is the custom here. I bought a lot of these bone-tipped
spears, but, unfortunately, our little launch gave a very heavy
lee-roll in the night as we were returning, and they all went
overboard.

We got the chiefs on board, made them all a little present,
paid the men for bringing water, and then prepared to pass
the night as quietly as possible by requesting all the people

126

GEORGE BROWN

to go on shore. Wc noticed that the people all seenicd %'ery
wild, and that the chiefs had little or no power over them.
When we gave a few little presents to the chiefs, there was
quite a scramble for them, and they had no little difficulty in
saving any for themselves. Some of our party were anxious
for us to steam out to sea and be to until morning, but we
finally decided to remain at anchor and keep a good watch all
night It was fortunate, I think, that we did this, for during
my watch I suddenly saw a canoe creeping towards us in the
misty darkness. I was at once on the alert, and soon saw
another. I immediately challenged them, and woke up our
crew. The noise we made showed that we were awake, and
our visitors left us. How many they were, and with what
intention they came, I did not know, but we all believed that
they came for no good purpose.

On October 28 we started early for our journey along the
coast, but did not go many miles. We reached a place called
Matakan, and beyond this our crew refused to go, representing
all beyond as a bad, dangerous coast, full of reefs and stones, on
which the steamer would inevitably be wrecked, and describing
the people as very dangerous. I had long since ceased to
believe them when they told these tales about places which
they themselves did not visit, and where, consequently, they did
not wish us to go. However, as we had gone as far as we
wished to do for that trip, we were not anxious to press the
matter, and so we determined to land, see the people, and then
return.

We had to land in a canoe, as the reef was too shallow and
rough for a boat. The people lived on a high hill far inland.
They were all well armed, as usual, as they were at war with
almost every other district farther inland and on either side
of them. What a blessing it was for those people when the
reception of the religion of Jesus caused war to cease, and
taught them all to live together in peace, and to love each
other as He hath commanded.

From Matakan we returned to Tukul, Kabanut, and Kalil.

INEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 127

At this last-named place the chiefs had a large present of food
ready for us on our return. They had evidently taken the
broad hint I gave them when there before. After receiving the
present, I was taken by the chief to ^an enclosure near the
village, of an oblong shape, the gate of which was carefully
fastened. On entering, we found ourselves in a small piece of
ground about a quarter of an acre in size, surrounded by a
live fence, and kept well weeded and very clean. At one end
of the enclosure there was a large house containing two large
chalk images, one of which, representing a man, was much
larger than the other, which represented a woman. The man
was represented as wearing a high conical hat and a large frill
or ruff round the neck. They were gaudily painted ; and so
were the posts of the house. I could not find out what use
they made of them. I find the following remarks in my diary
written at the time : " 1 do not think that they are objects of
worship, or idols, in the strict meaning of the word, and yet
they evidently view them with some superstitious regard, as
they dance to them, and strictly forbid all women and children
to go near the place where they are kept. The people here
have also smaller images made of chalk, which they keep in
their houses. Most of these figures are representations of men
or women, generally in a sitting posture, and having either
a high conical hat or a helmet on their heads, and a large
frill round the neck. They are rude enough as specimens of
art, but interesting as .suggesting some questions, which at
present it is rather difficult to answer. From what source did
these people, who are destitute of all clothing, get the idea of
the conical hat, the plumed helmet, the stiff frill, the praying
attitude, and the Gothic-shaped arch or covering which many of
the figures are holding over their heads? It is too soon to
affirm anything positively, but as the costume is similar to that
worn in the days of Elizabeth and James, 1 am inclined to
believe that we have here traces of the visits of early navigators,
of which, as far as we know at present, the very tradition has
died out. 1 am told by Mr. Blohm, who resided for many years

gmmL

GEORGE BROWN

at Yap, in the Caroline Islands, that the traces of the idolatrous
worship introduced by the Spanish priests many years ago may
still be observed, incorporated with the heathen worship which
prevails there, though the natives have quite forgotten the
source from which they are evidently derived."

I succeeded afterwards in buying some of those large
figures, and took them to Sydney, where they attracted great
attention. Professor Liversidge, of the University, pronounced
the material to be true chalk, and stated that this had not
before been found in those parts. When I went to take the
images from the sacred place in which they were, we had to go
at midnight, taking with us large baskets in which to hide them,
and scouts were sent out all around the place to see that no
woman or uninitiated man or boy should look upon them as we
carried them to the boat. These images were unfortunately
burnt in the Garden Palace in Sydney, which was destroyed
by fire.

We reached Port Hunter again at midnight.

On November 4 we started again for New Ireland in order
to arrange for stationing a teacher at Kalil, and also to select
a suitable site for his house. We left at 4 a.m. We steered
by the compass through the pouring rain. The weather was
so thick that though we knew that we must be close in with
the land, and were all of us looking out most intently for it, we
could not see it, though it is more than 2,cxX> feet in height,
until it started out almost under our bows, not more than two
or three cables' length from us. We soon reached Kalil, but
did not attempt to land, as the surf was high and we were
afraid to remain at anchor. We landed Mr, C, communicated
with the chiefs, and then started back for Port Hunter, having
fortunately got a sight of the land through a rift in the clouds.
This gave us our course, and so our little launch steamed
steadily on through the mist and rain until we saw Port
Hunter right ahead, and were soon ashore, wet and tired
enough. We found on this trip that our boiler should have been
protected from the weather. Not only was there a great loss

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PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 129

by radiation of heat, but in heavy rain it was almost impossible
to keep up steam. Had there been a strong wind when we
were so close in with the New Ireland coast we could not have
kept off it, as we could not get up steam enough to drive the
boat when the rain was pouring down so heavily.

On November 16 we started for New Britain. We found
Ratu Livai and Peni, the teachers at Rabuan, both ill, so
that I could not take Peni on to Matupit as I had intended
to do. After giving them medicine, I prepared to start for
Matupit, but we were detained some time by a quarrel amongst
the natives, which at one time threatened to end seriously,
and to involve us also. Tokoropa, a chief of Rabuan, where
the teachers then were, was angry because Peni was about to
be removed, and he rushed out with his spears and wished
to kill Toporapora, the Matupit chief. Toporapora seized a
musket and wished to fight Tokoropa at once, but our engineer
and others got hold of him and put him on board the launch
again, and I went on shore, explained matters, and got them
pacified. We then went to Matupit, and I got a little quinine
from Captain Milne of the Susanne for the sick teachers ; but it
was then too late to return to Rabuan.

November 17. Early this morning we ascended the
volcano in Blanche Bay, in company with Captain Luzer of
the Susanne and Mr. Blohm. The crater was of great depth,
with almost perpendicular sides, and was still smoking in
many places ; but the most recent eruption seemed to have
been on the lower land near the beach, where we found the
ground quite loose and very hot, with a good deal of sulphur
on the surface. The sides of the crater were full of the nests
of the megapodes. This bird does not build mounds here,
as in other places, but deposits its eggs in the warm, loose
ashes of which the hill is formed. We heard from Captain
Milne, on our return, that the Matupit people had refused
to allow him to land a trader on the island. They would
have a teacher, they said, but no trader, as they fought the

t3o

GEORGE BROWN

other traders who were there before, and burnt their houses,
and they were afraid of any such thing happening again. After
a late breakfast we returned to Rabuan, brought back Peni
and family, landed them on Matupit, and then slept on board
the brig. A good day's work.

Next day I went on shore at Matupit, paid for the house,
and had a long talk with the people. Left with Captain Milne's
boat in tow. We steamed round tlic bay, and called at
Diwaon. We could not anchor there, as our 56 lb. weight
would not hold the launch when there was any wind or swell.
Our proper anchor was lost at Rotuma, whilst being used to
anchor a buoy for the John Wesley, and we often felt the loss
very much indeed. We managed to make fast to a tree, but
the canoes crowded about so much that we were anxious to
get away. I went on shore and found all friendly. We left
Captain Milne's boat there, and started back for Port Hunter
with a strong breeze right abeam, and a nasty cross sea
running. Our sail was torn in pieces in one of the squalls,
but we bent the boat sail to steady the launch, and so got
home all right at sunset

Two days after our return from New Britain (November 20)
we started for New Ireland at 5 a.m., to station the teachers
who had been appointed to that island. We had a fine run
over to Kaiil ; landed the teachers, Elimotama, Pauliasi and
wife ; paid for teachers* house, had a long talk with the chiefs,
and then started for Port Hunter again. It was a miserable
journey back. We first steamed up the New Ireland coast
for several miles against a very heavy wind and sea, and then
managed to anchor out of reach of the heavy swell under the
lee of a small reef, where we decided to remain until evening,
hoping that the wind would then take off. We took the
whale-boat as near the beach as the heavy surf would allow
us, and then Mr. C, myself, and a few of the natives, swam
on shore to try to shoot a few birds. As we were swimming
ut to the boat again, I remembered that the natives had

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 131

told us that the alligators were especially numerous in this
part; and I am sure I never swam faster in my life than I
did then ; and right glad I was to get on board again. We
started again in the evening for Port Hunter : the wind was
still high, and this, with the heavy sea and a strong westerly
current, soon set us far to leeward in the darkness. Our
little launch worked well; but with a heavy boat in tow she
made but little progress against so many difficulties. We
did not reach Port Hunter until dawn, so that we were about
twelve hours under steam in making about twenty miles of
a direct course. We often made the same passage under more
favourable circumstances in about three hours. It was very
hard work indeed attending to the engine for so many hours,
and our chief engineer Jack was often quite worn out, and
I had to take charge and make him take some rest. In my
diary I wrote on my return : " From to-day must date the
first settlement of teachers in New Ireland. May God grant
tfiat the time may soon come when the eyes of these people
will be opened to see the wondrous beauties of the Gospel
of Christ, and their feet be directed into the way of His
testimonies."

After this I had the unusual experience of being five
days at home. These were used in cleaning the launch,
painting the boat, and other necessary work. On the evening
of November 26 I received a note from Ratu Livai telling
me that he was very ill. The weather was not at all settled,
and I feared that we should have a very unpleasant passage
across, but I felt we must make the attempt. The teachers
would have fared badly, poor fellows, if I had not remained
behind with them. In my diary I wrote that night: "I am
very glad indeed that I stayed here, as remittent and inter-
mittent fevers, I fear, are more prevalent here than we thought
they were. I have been feeling anxious and homesick all
the evening. This letter of poor Livai's has unsettled me ; he
thinks he is dying, and wishes me to go at once."

We started at 6.30 a.m. next day, November 37, and

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GEORGE BROWN

returned to Port Hunter at 7 p.m. the same day, having visited
Peni at Matupit, and Ratu Livai at Rabuan. This showed
of what great use our smart little Henry Reed was to us
when we were able to do so much in one day. I found Peni
still ill with fever and ague, but a little better than he had been.
Gave him a fresh supply of quinine, etc. We then examined
the opposite side of the bay under the " Mother," wishing to
find a watering place for the steamer. We hoped to be able
to get a supply by digging. The water we got was in little
shallow holes scooped out in the black mud. Filled one cask,
and then started for Rabuan, Found Ratu Livai a little
better, and wishful to remain ; so, after staying with them
some time we left and had a fine run home. Ratu Livai
spoke in the highest terms of Tokoropa, one of the chiefs.
He said that no Christian man in Fiji or white man's land
could have showed him more kindness during his illness, or
manifested more sympathy towards him. The Rabuan people
all seemed very kind, and assured me over and over again that
they would " look out," i.e. take care of the teacher and his
wife. They had seen us so often lately that I was quite
familiar now to them all This constant journeying was hard
work and involved no little strain on the constitution, but we
could not rt-main at anchor whilst so much remained to be
done. I was rarely more than a few days at home at one
time, and so our work got on much faster than it would
otherwise hrive done. People saw us and got to know us,
and little by little our proper position and work was made
known to the natives.

I returned from New Britain on Saturday, November 27,
Monday was spent in cleaning up and preparing for another
journey. On Tuesday we buried our first dead, a Fijian teacher
called Timothy, which made us all very sad ; and on the
afternoon of November 30 started for New Ireland. After a
good run we slept at Kalil the same night.

We started from Kalil at 7.15 a.m. on December i, intending

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 133

to go much farther down the coast than we were able to go
before. We passed Matakan, our extreme limit on the previous
journey, about 11 a.m., but did not land. We reached Kuras
at half-past one. From Kalil to that place (Kuras) the coast
consists of a low mountain range extending right down to
the water's edge, with patches of fringing reefs and occasional
outlying detached patches or shoals, but not extending for
any great distance from the beach. As we went farther north-
west we noticed that the range gradually decreased in height,
but it was not until we returned that we were told that the
island is so narrow at a place called Kurumut (near Kuras)
that a man shouting on one coast could be heard and answered
by another man from the opposite side of the island. This
we found out afterwards was false. On our arrival at Kuras
we had lots of canoes alongside, and in due time the chiefs
came off. We had some little talk, and then, as La Bera,
the Kalil chief, said that it was safe, I went on shore. We
climbed up a steep cliff to the village, and, sitting down near
a tree, I tried to talk to them a little, but found that it was
very difficult indeed to fix the attention of many of the people,
especially that of the chief, who had invited me to visit him.
I scolded him for his inattention, and threatened to leave ii
he did not listen to me; so I got a more attentive audience
whilst I tried to tell them why we had come so far to see
them. I gave them a few presents, and got some pigs, etc.,
in return ; and then as night was drawing on I went on board,
and we started away at once for Kalil, which place we reached
at 9.30 p.m., good steaming all the way. It was not until
after we landed at Kalil that I learnt that the chief I scolded
for being so inattentive had killed a man the day before we
arrived, and at the very time I was scolding him was interested
in some culinary operations which were being carried on in
a house close to where we were sitting. Kaplen, one of our
lads, went into a house, and saw the women engaged in roasting
the thigh and leg of a man on some hot stones. He was
so frightened that be would not sit down all the time we

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GEORGE BROWN

were there. I noticed this at the time, but did not know
then the reason of his conduct, as I was quite unconscious
of the horrible affair, though the house was only a few yards
distant, and, in fact, I passed quite close to the door. I asked
Kaplen why he did not tell me at the time, but I could
get no reply from him. He afterwards, however, told some
of the others, and they told me. He said : " I did not tell
the mi.ssionary, because I knew he was such a fool that he
would try and get it (the thigh and leg) away from them.
Then they would be angry, and would probably kill him, and
if so, I knew they would kill me also ; and so I thought it
best not to tell him," The man, as far as I could learn, met
his death justly, as he himself came to murder any one he
could find belonging to Kuras.

As I wished to know a little more of New Ireland than we
could find out by an occasional visit, I determined to return
to Port Hunter in the launch, leave her there at the moorings,
and return in the \v hale-boat. There was no safe anchorage
at Kalil, but we could draw the boat up on the beach.

On December 3 I left the launch at anchor, and started
for Kalil in the whale-boat at 9.30 a.m. In the launch we
could have gone easily in about three hours, but we were
compelled to sit until 3.30 p.m. in the hot, blazing sun before
we got on shore, with aching heads and weak bodies. At
night, after prayer, I got a lot of the men into the house to
give me some words and sentences from which to form an
alphabet for the use of the teachers.

Next day I went to Kabanut in a small canoe. This
village is about six miles north of Kalil. We passed close
to a settlement of the bushmen, and as there was a temporary
peace between them and the coast villages, they were down
on the beach fishing. As 1 much wished to open communication
with them, I went close in to the reef and beckoned the chief
to come and speak with me, as we were then in shallow
water. He came ; but when I saw more than a hundred of j
those wild cannibal fellows all armed and all crowding round

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 135

oar little canoe, gesticulating and shouting, I half repented
going so near them. They did not, however, mean us any
harm ; and after dividing a little tobacco and a few beads
amongst them, we went on our way. The chief was daubed
all over with lime. They were the wildest lot I have ever
seen, and I was glad to get well away. On our way back
in the evening, a few of them were still there, and two or
three came out to us, and gave us a few smoking-hot bananas,
vhich were doubly acceptable, as showing that they appreciated
our kindness, and also because we were very hungry. At
Kabanut I went inland, saw the people, and arranged for the
location of a teacher in a few months. I was quite weary and
exhausted when we reached Kalil. That night I wrote, " Truly
the spirit is willing, and I want to do all I can whilst I am
liere, but this body of mine rebels occasionally."

Sunday, December 5. This morning we held the first

Tegular service on New Ireland. We assembled near the shade

of some large trees on the seashore, just in front of the teachers'

bouse. A lot of men from Kabanut, where I went yesterday,

liad accepted my invitation, and came to look at our service.

It was a strange sight to see those men walking along the

shore for such a purpose. They .were all armed, for no man

there stirred a foot without spear or tomahawk, and they would

never have dreamed of going into another town without being

Awell prepared for fighting. Many of the spears had a human leg-

or arm-bone on the throwing end, giving plenty of proof

of the cannibalism of the people. It was a calm, clear, hot

day, and a Sunday's feeling of rest seemed to pervade both

sea and land. I conducted the first part of the service in

Fijian, and then addressed them in pigeon English, which

Kaplen interpreted to Le Bera, and Le Bera to the people. In

this way we managed to make them understand very well.

The New Ireland language differs a good deal from Duke of

York, especially in having many aspirates, which are quite

wanting on the latter island. I was very glad to see Le Bera

(the chief) clothed in a shirt and waistglotht and his wives and

136

GEORGE BROWN

daughters each wearing a handkerchief or small piece of cloth.
After telling the people about the Lotu, I explained to them
fully the position of the teachers, and they clearly understood
the relationship in which they were placed, and their own
duties towards them. I was well pleased with the state of
affairs at Kalil. Hitherto our work had been far easier than
we had any reason to expect that it would be.

I wrote in my diary on that Sunday evening : " No mission
could have had a more promising beginning than ours has
had in all these islands. I believe that our principal difficulties
in the future will arise from the great difference between the
dialects, the constant feuds between the villages, and the want
of authority amongst the chiefs. But as our knowledge of
the language increases, we shall no doubt be able to decrease
very much the number of dialects as we introduce the use
of books in our schools ; and the reception of the religion of
Jesus will soon produce peace and order where now all is
discord and confusion."

On December 6 I took a photograph of Le Bera, the
chief, and the natives crowded round to sec it, and were quite
excited when they recognised the likeness. One old man
placed a small branch of a tree on my shoulder, and another
one gave me a bread-fruit leaf, the meaning of which I did not
understand until told that it was a complimentary way of
expressing their opinion that I was a very clever fellow indeed,
worthy of all praise, and that they especially fully appreciated
my worth, and were delighted with my performance. I, of
course, smiled sweetly, and w^as highly gratified at receiving
such a compliment ; but my opinion of its disinterestedness was
much diminished when I found that 1 was expected to pay
for it by a return present, and that such a present would be
preferred in the shape of beads or tobacco. Alas for my
satisfaction and pride I Had they been willing to receive an
equal number of return compliments in the shape of small
branches and dead leaves, I should still have felt some gratifica-
tion ; but there was something so suspicious in their desire

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 137

for tobacco that I took no further pleasure in the compliment.
However, I conformed to the custom once or twice; but next
day, on shooting a pigeon for our dinner from a high tree near
an old chiefs house, I so excited his admiration of my skill,
or his desire for a smoke, that he rushed out with another large
leaf for my shoulder, which, however, I politely declined, fearing
that such a profusion of compliments would excite unduly my
own pride, and would materially diminish my stock of tobacco
and beads !

I heard quite incidentally that day of a man there who had
killed a man from another village a short time ago, brought
him down to the village, and sold him to Le Bera for food.
It was referred to as being quite an ordinary transaction between
buyer and seller.

We reached Port Hunter at 6.30 a.m. on December 10,
having been all night pulling over from New Ireland.

Sunday, December 12. In the morning I preached to the
teachers. Toporapora, and the Matupit people were over to-
day. They had been murdering some poor wretches from
Kininigunan, whom they caught going out to fish last week.
They killed the four who were in the canoe. Two of the bodies
sank, but they took the other two to Matupit and ate them.

We started on December 15 for another part of New
Britain, as I was anxious to see a little more of the mainland
in the opposite direction to that which we had previously
examined. Our Port Hunter natives were afraid to go, so we
called at Waira and got four men from there, then steamed to
Meoko to get an interpreter, and after lots of bother got fairly
away. We made the land near Cape Palliser, and then steered
south-west along the shore of a small bight. The land there
consists of a comparatively low range of hills, descending, as
usual, " steep to " the sea. The whole range is well wooded,
and very beautiful. Cocoanuts are more abundant there than
in any other part we had then visited ; in fact, in many places
not only the shore but the hillsides were covered far inland

138

GEORGE BROWN

with the palms. From the large size of the plantations we
observed as we steamed along the coast, we inferred that there
must be a large population there, whilst the long tracts of un-
inhabited country abounding in nut-trees showed that the people
must have been much more numerous formerly. The natives
were continually pointing to the sites of former villages, and
when we asked where the people now were, the answer was :
" O man Meoko, he fight them, he kaikai (eat) all."

We steered for a place where we thought there must be
water. We found the stream, but could not go near enough
to get water. The natives crowded on the beach, but made
no hostile demonstration. They soon began to trade with eggs,
fowls, etc., and at length I persuaded the chief to come in
the boat, when I gave him a piece of print for a waistcloth,
and a few beads. As he got a little more confidence, I took
him on board the launch, and showed him how the engine
worked, and then after saying a few words to him through the
interpreter, telling him that I was a missionary, and what
missionary meant, I let him go, to his evident satisfaction.
We did not land there, as we could see a number of natives
partially hidden in the bush close to the beach. Though they
were probably only placed there to guard against treachery on
our part, we thought it best not to attempt a landing. We
then steamed some few miles farther down the coast, and
called at another village, where a great many natives came off
to barter sugar-cane, yams, taro, etc., and then, as night was
scorning on, and we saw no safe place in which to anchor, we
tarted for our return journey. We reached Meoko at lO p.m.

I wished to visit Port Carteret and also Port Praslin if
possible, so as to form some opinion of the population on that
coast. King Tom, who captured the Lavinia, had sent up,
asking me to go and see him. At first I did not entertain
the proposition, as the man was certainly a murderer, if Capt.
Brodie's account was correct On further consideration, however,
I decided to go and hear, at all events, what he had to say.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 139

We left Port Hunter at 2 a.m. on December 21, but did
not get away from Waira until 3.30 a.m., as we had to wake
up old Liblib, the chief, Dukduk, and the other men who were
going with us. J. Holmes, Setaleti, and myself, formed the rest
of the party. We had a fine run across, and then down the
coast, going very fast under wind and steam. We reached Port
Carteret (Lamasa) in the afternoon. There were not many
people living there, and I was not at all favourably impressed
with those who came on board. They could all speak a little
English (as this place was once a place of resort for the
whalers), were very forward, and the greatest beggars I have
ever met This port is formed by two islands lying off the
mainland, the largest of which, Cocoanut Island, on which the
natives live, can hardly be distinguished from the coast at any
great distance from it. The scenery in the port is very beautiful,
the mountain ranges being all densely wooded down to the
v-ery edge of the deep blue water. As soon as a squall passed
tay we steamed ahead, and about nine miles farther down the
croast we entered Gowers Harbour, formed by Wallis Island
lying off the land. This harbour or channel was very beautiful
indeed as we passed quickly along it just before sunset.
Everything was as still as possible, except our fussy little
steamer. We dropped our anchor at Port Praslin just at sunset.
X went on shore at once with the boat, and got off a good
supply of water, so as to be ready for a start at any time. There
'Were no natives living there, but those from Metlik (King Tom's
^village) could easily come overland when any vessel anchored.
It is a better harbour than Port Carteret, and was always con-
sidered to be quite safe until the capture of the Lavinia and
the massacre of many of her crew about two years before.
Since then no merchant vessels had visited the place. I was
very tired, but kept watch for some time whilst the natives
who went with us were giving me all the particulars of the
capture and massacre.

On December 22 we started early from Port Praslin. I
walked some distance along the shore whilst Jack was getting

I40

rORGE BROWl

up steam in the launch. We saw the tracks of natives, but
they had evidently been frightened at seeing us, or they had
gone to report our arrival. As soon as we got on board we
made good progress in the still water in the early morning,
and about three miles from Port Praslin we rounded Cape St.
George, the extreme south point of New Ireland, and soon
afterwards we lost sight of New Britain, and were well on the
other side of New Ireland. Metlik, where King Tom lived,
is about ten or twelve miles from Port Praslin by sea, but is
much nearer, I think, overland. As soon as we anchored there
I sent the boat on shore with Liblib and the natives, to tell
Tom that I had come a long way to see him, on his invitation,
but that now I wished him first to come off and see me in the
launch. He came at once, bringing another chief with him.
Both were unarmed. Tom was dressed in a marine's coat, and
the other chief looked very well in a blue jacket. They com-
menced talking at once about the Lavinia, and both of them
wished me to believe that they had nothing at all to do with
it. They said that the schooner was taken by men belonging
to Baul, a village a little distance from Metlik. Tom said that
he was angry when it was done, as he wished to stand well
with the white men, and so he went at once and fought the
Baul men, and killed and ate two of them. This was Tom's
account of the afTair, but I do not at all avouch its truthfulness.
He said also : " I have always been good to the while men ;
some of them have lived here with me ; whalers have left their
sick men here, and when they died I buried them properly,
and they lie on my land now." After some more talk I
laughingly asked him if he would "fight" or kill me if I
landed, as they had done with the Lavinias crew. He laughed,
and asked me if he looked like fighting. We landed, and after
some talk with the people on shore I walked along the beach,
as I wished to look at a small river which empties itself here.
I did not feel that I was incurring any risk in doing this, as
the people were cither very friendly or too frightened at what
they had done to attempt anything more in the same way.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 141

After I returned from my walk I took a few photographs, and
then went on board the launch to dinner.

About three o'clock I went on shore again, and went up the
village to Tom's house, where 1 found that he had prepared
a lai^e present of taro, pumpkins, cocoanuts, bananas, and
a lai^e pig. He said ; " This is yours. Duke of York man
he tell you that 1 would fight you. Is this fighting ? Will
the taro fight you? Will the bananas fight you? Will the
pig fight you ? No, no, me no fight you, me plenty like you,"
etc, etc. I made him a few presents in return, and then we
went to another chiefs house, where we got another present
minus the pig ; and so again from a third chief, for all which
I made a suitable return. Tom came on board in the evening
to say good-bye, and said several times to me : " Missionary,
suppose you hungry you come here to this place belong me.
Plenty taro, he stop here, full, full, me give him you. Boat
belong you, he go down, sink with taro, bananas, and yams.
Suppose you hungry come here ; me very good fellow, yes,
me good fellow." Whether he was such a very good fellow
or not I could not tell, but he treated us very well, and up
to the unfortunate Lavinia affair he was always considered
to be the best man on the Islands, and Port Praslin to be
the safest and best anchorage. I bought a quadrant, the
Livinids Articles, and a Savings Bank deposit book from the
natives, but saw no other property belonging to the vessel.
The language here seemed to be quite different to that spoken
at Kalil and other places in New Ireland, and I was more
and more confirmed in the opinion that we must depend in
a great measure on our native agents in our endeavours to
give these people the Gospel. White missionaries could never
be found for all these varying dialects.

We left Metlik at sunset, and about 9 p.m. Jack went to
sleep, as he was really tired out with the heat and excitement
of the day, I acted as engineer and stoker until 3 a.m. The
night was calm and we made good progress. There was no
moon visible, but it was starlight and clear, and I quite enjoyed

142

GEORGE BROWN

the night as we steamed past Port PrasHn ^;atn, away up
Gowers Harbour, with the land close to us on both sides,
towering above us gloomy and still, the death-like silence of
the dense forests unbroken by any sound of beast or bird, as
our little launch, belching out fire and smoke, and lighting with
a lurid glare the water which she dashed from her bows, sped
away on her homeward course. Fortunately there were few
outlying reefs here, and we had a good pilot in old Liblib,
so we had no difficulty in making Port Carteret again. The
people at the village there called out to us, but we only answered
them and kept on our way. At 8 a.m. we were at Tomum's
place, where we anchored for awhile and took in water. After
that we had a weary day's steaming up the coast to KaliL
The furnace bars must. I think, have been choked up, and we
were very short of coals, so that we had great difficulty in
keeping up steam enough to propel the boat two or three miles
an hour against wind and current. We did not reach Kalil
until about midnight, after our 30 hours' passage from Metlik.

On December 24 we took in wood and water, and prepared
to start for Port Hunter. This place (Kalil) was full of
bush men and men from the east side of the island. They had
brought some pigs, and were on a friendly visit, but both
hosts and visitors were well armed every hour of the day.
I saw three of the principal chiefs from the east side of the
island, and made them a few presents, telling them that I
intended to visit them some day soon.

On January 17, 1876, I wrote as follows: "I have again
been warned that some men at Utuan and Kerawara intend
to kill me, because some of their men were killed by the
captain and crew of a trading vessel some time ago. King
Dick told me so the other day, and Waruwarum again to-day.
He laid his hand on his breast and said : ' I feel here that it
is quite true, and am so much afraid,' etc. I told him that we
were much obliged to him, but that we didn't believe the tale,
and were not afraid to go to Utuan and test the truth of th«

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 143

report. Dick told Mr. Blohm the other day that we are a most
intractable set of white men ! Other white men (he said) did
what they told them, and only went to places where they
told them to go, but we go anywhere and everywhere. Poor
Dick, he doesn't like it, but we are not likely to alter our
plans. If I had listened to these people our Mission would not
have been known outside of Duke of York Group and two
or three of the nearest villages on the large islands. I mean to
call at Utuan to-morrow, where these fellows live, and ask them
if the tale is true. There is no presumption at all in this.
I am as careful as any one ought to be ; but I am certain that
these tales are most of them manufactured to prevent us from
going to certain places, and I cannot allow our work to be so
hindered. I was solemnly assured the other day that Mijieli's
illness was caused by poison ; but he had not the slightest
symptom of poisoning. It was simply a case of remittent
fever ; and I feel certain that this story, though told in such a
plausible manner, is just another case of lying, so that even
if we were to be attacked to-morrow, I feel quite justified in
calling, as at present I have no reason to apprehend such an
attack."

We started early on January 18 for Birara, intending from

there to explore the coast right down to Matupit. We called

at Waira and then at Meoko to get an inteipreter. From

Meoko we went to Utuan, the place where the men lived who,

according to Dick and others, intended to kill us. We inquired

for the individuals and sent an invitation for them to come

on board the launch, but, as usual, they were not at home,

and we were told they didn't live there, but at another island

some distance away. Tuki, the chief of Utuan, came on board,

and I got him to go with us as interpreter. This also served

another purpose, as I wished to get friendly with these Utuans,

who were rather a wild lot, and I knew no better way than

that of taking the chief away with us in the launch for a few

days. I asked Tuki whether it was true that some of his

people had been talking of killing us, but he only laughed.

144

GEORGE BROWN

So there may after all be some little truth in the report that
some fellows had talked about it, though I still believe they
never seriously meant it. As we steamed through the Utuan
passage, old Guriraram, the Meoko chief, came off ; and as he is
a well-known chief, I willingly took him on board, and we were
soon outside and making good progress with wind and steam
towards the New Britain coast. We soon found that old
Guriraram was not likely to be of much service to us, as he had
been fighting so often with the people, and had killed and
eaten so many of them, that he was dreadfully frightened when
we went near the beach, and ran and hid himself under
the foredeck when any of the natives came off to us. He was
also very frightened when there was much wind or sea, and very
anxious to get home again. We called at several places, but
did not go on shore until we reached Ledip, the place we had
previously called at oti our first visit here. There was a great
crowd of natives on the beach, and, as usual, they were all very
anxious to trade, but my first inquiry was for our boat rowlocks
which were stolen on our previous visit, and I told them that
there would be no trading until they were returned to us. A
few young men were sent away at once, and we all waited until
they returned with the rowlocks. I then engaged a lot of
them to bring off the fresh water we wanted for the launch, and
then we bouj^ht the fowls, eggs, yams, etc., they wished to
sell,

At sunset I went on shore with old Guriraram, who was well
known there ; in fact, the Ledip natives had been his allies in
his many fights with the Birara people. There were no houses
near the beach, as the natives lived some distance inland. The
beach is all composed of loose water-worn shingle, and on this
the natives were all assembled, sitting, squatting, and lying
round the fires they had kindled. I thought this a good
opportunity for saying a few words, and so, standing up amongst
the crowd, I spoke through one of our Port Hunter natives,
which he interpreted to Tuki, and he in turn interpreted it to
the Birarans. The natives were very attentive and seemed to

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 145

understand all that was said, but as I thought they would get
some more information from a quiet gossip with the chiefs of
our party, I asked Waruwarum, Kaplen, and Tuki to tell them
all about our doings. It was now quite dark, and the crowd of
wild-looking natives looked fiercer and more savage than ever,
as seen in the glare of the firelight, backed as it was by the
gloom of the thick forest, on the edge of which we were all
sitting. I suppose I ought not to have remained in such a
place and amongst such a crowd after dark, but I saw no
occasion for fear, and I knew that it is only at such times that
it is possible to get any quiet talk with the people, as they are
too much excited about their trade in the day time. So, merely
taking the precaution to have my back towards the creek, I
lay down on the warm shingle, put my head on Peni's lap, and
with Kaplen's help as interpreter, gossiped away to the small
crowd of natives who gathered round us, whilst Waruwarum and
Tuki were talking with the others. After lying there for some
time the sand-flies began to get very troublesome, and we were
glad to be able to get on board again. We spent a miserable
night there.

Next day the crowd of natives was larger than ever, and old
Guriraram seemed frightened, and told us that it was not
prudent to stay any longer ; so we prepared to go, though
I think there was no mischief intended. We left at 8 a.m,, and
steamed along the coast until we reached a point near Cape
Palliser ; but this time, instead of returning direct to Duke of
York as we had formerly done, we kept along the New Britain
coast, intending to go right round to Matupit. Some distance
down the bay some large canoes came off, and we stopped until
they came up, notwithstanding the protestations of our crew
that they would murder us all. An old chief came alongside
first, and we had no difficulty in getting him on board, when
I rejoiced his heart by putting a fathom of print round his
waist, and a piece of red Turkey twill round his head. He was
quite excited, and would insist on my standing up, whilst he
put his arm round my body and shouted to all the people in

146

GEORGE BROWN

their own language : " Missionary, missionary, he no fight, no
fight/' We made a few purchases from them, and then I gave
the old man a piece of cord with five knots on it, thus agreeing
with him in their own way to visit me at Port Hunter in five
days' time. He would cut off a knot each night, and so keep
to the time agreed upon. The country here in some places is the
most beautiful of any I have ever seen in the South Seas. At
this place, Kininigunan, there are large portions of the coast
range from which the whole of the bush has been cleared or burnt
off, and the ground overgrown with most luxuriant thick coarse
grass of the most vivid green, interspersed with clumps of bush
in the small ravines and with cocoanut palms on the beach,
and in clusters also over the land, crowning the low range of
hills which bounds the prospect inland. It was a most lovely
scene, and it was difficult to believe that we were not looking at
some highly cultivated estate laid out with exquisite taste and
judgment We passed many large villages on our way to
Matupit, but we kept right on our way up the centre of the
Bay, not caring to go near the shore in the dark.

On my return I wrote : *' We have now fully satisfied our-
selves that the whole coast up to Cape Palliser, and for some
miles beyond at all events, is densely populated, and affords
a fine field for mission work. The great hindrances, I must
repeat, will be the same as on New Ireland, viz., the lack oi
authority on the part of the chiefs, and the constant feuds of the
people, which have kept them so isolated from each other that
the dialectic differences are now so great as almost to constitute
different languages in every district. Our little launch, however,
is doing wonders already in bringing these people into contact
with each other, and so breaking down the isolation in which
they have hitherto lived. We take a few chiefs with us every
time we go out, and so they are compelled to go to places
where they would never have dared to go in their own canoes.
They meet the chiefs there, and, instead of enemies, find friends
ready enough to receive them, and in time, when assured of
their good faith, to visit them again. Our two Port Hunter

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 147

chiefe had never been here before, and the wives of one of them
cried and wept over him as a doomed man when he left home
to come with us ; but instead of being killed he is welcomed,
forms friendly relations with the chiefs here, and seconds
heartily my invitation to them to visit us at the Station, which
they have promised to do. We reached Matupit about 8 p.m.,
and I was glad enough to get ashore, and slept quietly and
peacefully on the island amongst the people, against whom I
had been so repeatedly warned, and where I was called fool-
hardy and rash only a few weeks s^o for daring to land. One
of the first pieces of news I heard now was that the people had
of their own accord begun to build a small church.

" The district called Kininigunan, from which the old chief
came out, as mentioned above, is that to which the four men
belonged who were killed, and two of them eaten, by these
Matupit people a few weeks before. It was quite strange to-day
as we passed by some of the villages to hear Tuki tell me, in
the most unconcerned manner possible, of events that had taken
place there: 'That fellow place he kaikai (eat) three fellow-
man belong me ; another day me kaikai four men belong him.
Four fellow-man me kaikai ' (eat), he said again, laughing quite
pleasantly, and in a most self-satisfied manner as he held up
his four fingers. Blood feuds appeared to be easily made up if
the one party agrees to pay. A few fathoms of shell money
were quite sufficient to pay for a murder."

Next day (January 20) we finished our work at Matupit,
called at Nodup, and reached Port Hunter at sunset. On the
following day I took Guriraram and Tuki home, examined and
sounded the fine harbour at Meoko, which we have called Port
Wesley, and got home again the same day.

Our steam launch did not lie long at her moorings in Port
Hunter; and a few days after our return from New Britain I
found it was advisable to go there again. I was up at 3.30 a.m.
January 27, but we did not manage to start until nearly
daylight. It seems that the old chief to whom I gave the

148

GEORGE BROWN

string with five knots on it to remind him of his promised visit
to tm in five days' time, misunderstood my meaning, or pretended
to do so, and expected me to visit them again in that time. I
did not like to disappoint them ; and as I wanted to improve
our short acquaintance, we started again for New Britain, calling
on our way at Nakukuru and Utuan, where we took our old
friend Tuki and his son on board, and then departed for New
Britain. We made the coast at Tara na Kirr, near Cape Palliser,
and then coasted down until we came to Kininigunan. We
anchored close inshore, and were soon surrounded by a lot of
excited natives, all eager to barter. They came off in canoes,
and on bamboo rafts, whilst those who had neither canoe nor
raft swam off, and held on by the gunwale of the boat and
steamer. We were not more than two or three boat-lengths
from the beach, as we could not find anchorage at any greater
distance from the shore. I think I was never before in the
midst of such a deafening uproar and excitement. We made
both steam launch and boat " tabu," but it was simply impos-
sible to keep the people from crowding on board. I knew from
past experience that it would be a very severe trial to my
patience ; so, as soon as we anchored, 1 summoned up all my
stock of that article and resolved that nothing should disturb
my equanimity. For a long time, amid all that deafening noi.se,
with natives tugging now at one sleeve and then at the other,
tapping me on almost every part of my body, calling out,
"Missionary, missionary, captain, captain," and endeavouring
in every possible way to attract my attention to some rubbish
or other they wished me to buy, I conducted myself in the
most amiable manner, smiling sweetly upon them all, though
I was grinning in despair, and requesting them in the most
pleasant and polite manner possible to leave our boat and get
into their canoes. One individual, whose full dress consisted
of a small bead necklace, prevailed upon me to invest in the
purchase of a small pig, and then presuming on the friendship
established between us, he only laughed pleasantly whenever
I told him to vacate the few feet of our steam launch deck

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 149

which, for want of a better name, we had dignified by the title
of the quarter deck. It was necessary to keep this clear, simply
as a precautionary measure, and also because we could not
steer the launch if there was any one sitting on it, as he
would interfere with the action of the tiller; but my friend
only smiled and pointed to his pig whenever I urged the
necessity of his going on shore. After a while, however, he
would yield to my entreaties, and take to the water ; but as
soon as ever I moved away he was up again, and met me with
the same beaming smile, pointing to the pig which in an evil
hour I had bought from him. I much wished to talk to the
chiefs here, but found that it was impossible to do so whilst
at anchor, so we steamed slowly ahead and actually ploughed
our way out through canoes and bamboo rafts, until we got
well outside, when we stopped and I tried to say a few words
to the chiefs, though I had no good interpreter. We had
Topulu (King Dick) on board, but he was very frightened,
and kept down below all the time ; and King Tom (lots of
kings there!), also from Port Hunter, was much perturbed in
his mind as the natives swarmed on board. He kept his large
tomahawk well in hand, and, standing with his back against
the mast, did good service by allowing no one to go down
the fore part of the boat. He was about the ugliest fellow in
the group ; and to that and the tomahawk I attributed the
influence which he certainly exercised, but which we could
never command. I had chiefs on board who had never before
dared to go near that district ; but they were well received, and
a way was opened for future intercourse and friendship. These
people had large canoes and appeared to be a fine race of
men. Their large fish traps were anchored far out at sea, in
deep blue water, with a tall ornamented pole attached to them
as a beacon. The traps float a few feet below the surface, and
large quantities of fish are caught in them. I had never before
seen or heard of fish traps being so placed, the general plan in
all the Eastern groups being to place the traps on the bottom
in comparatively shallow water. We landed Tuki and son just

I50

GEORGE BROWN

before dusk, and then, making a wide circuit to avoid a nasty
reef off Mauke, we made all haste to Port Hunter, reaching
there about lo p.m.

On Saturday, January 29, I was surprised by seeing a boat
pulling round the point of the bay. I ran down to the beach,
and to my joy found that the Europ>ean I had seen in it was
Captain Hernshcim, just returned from Sydney. He told me
that he had left his vessel, the Ca'rart, down the coeist some
distance, and had pulled up with a native crew. In the evening
we got up steam, and towed the schooner into port about 1 a,m.,
and then we got our letters from home. Oh ! how glad I was
to get them, and how thankful to know that all at home were,,
well.

I had long been very anxious to go farther down the New
Britain coast than we had as yet dared to do, owing to the
difficulty of taking sufficient coal to last us on such a long
trip. I talked with Mr. Hernsheim about the matter, and as he
himself wished to see Spacious Bay, which was the place to
which I desired to go, he kindly offered to give us a passage,
and to tow the launch behind the vessel, thus saving us the
necessity of taking so much coal. We left Port Hunter on
Wednesday, February g, at noon in the Caeran, with our steam
launch in tow behind the vessel.

Next day, February 10, we got a fine breeze at 2 a.m., which
carried us well up with Cape Buller, but then fell light, and we
made very little progress until evening, when we got well inside
the Bay ; but with thick weather and rain we could see but little
of the land. We saw no signs of any shallow water or of any
anchorage. The Cairan was kept under full sail, beating into
the Bay all night.

As we found an entirely different people on our subsequent
visit to that place, 1 think it best to insert here the account of
this visit exactly as I wrote it at the time :

"Friday, February 11. Early this morning we saw the
natives, as several canoes came near the ship, but we had very

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 151

great difficulty indeed to persuade any of them to come along-
side. We threw beads and pieces of red cloth, which they
eagerly seized, but they were still very shy. The general im-
pression with us was that they had rarely, if ever, seen a vessel
before. It is not at all a likely place for any vessel to go to, as
it is quite out of the track, and we could not see the slightest
sign to indicate that they had received any articles of trade
before They were quite ignorant of tobacco, and wouldn't
take it at all for barter. Small strips of red cloth were eagerly
sought after, and so were beads of all colours, but they had
little or nothing to trade with, and as the vessel began to move
through the water they soon left us. After breakfast Captain
Hemsheim, Mr. Cockerell, J. Holmes, and myself, went in the
launch, leaving the vessel beating up the Bay. As we neared
the shore the canoes came out to meet us, but we kept on our
way, and they followed us up. We steered for a small village,
and soon left the canoes behind us. As we neared the beach
we saw a considerable number of natives running and shouting
and waving to us to go on shore. I saw plenty of women and
children, and many of them had green boughs in their hands,
so we felt no danger in going pretty close inshore, though we
did not try to land or to anchor. The canoes soon came
alongside, and many natives swam off from the shore, so we had
a good opportunity for making their acquaintance. It was at
once evident that these people differ considerably from any we
had yet seen. They are lighter in colour, their hair is finer and
not so matted as that of the natives farther north, and alto-
gether they appeared to be a finer race. This was especially
noticeable in the case of the women, many of whom seemed
much like the Eastern Polynesians — in fact, some of the girls
were not much unlike Samoans. Some of the women and girls
came off in the canoes ; and this also was different from the
custom in any other place, as we very seldom see the women
until we land, and they never come alongside. Altogether, the
impression made on my mind was that the women here occupy
a much higher social position than they do in the other parts

152

GEORGE BROWN

we have visited. Another point of difference between these
people and any we have yet seen is that these all wear something
as a covering. The men have a covering similar to that worn
by the Fijians in their heathen state, and the women wear the
banana leaf. They are all betel chewers, and have the large
hole in their ears. They use large shields made of bread-fruit
wood, and their spears are tipped with bone. We could not
stay very long, and so, after steaming a little farther up the Bay,
we started for the ship, and were soon on board and standing
away for Cape BuUer. Captain Hernsheim very kindly towed
the launch to Cape BuUer, and then went on his course. He
had been very kind indeed to us, and we felt sorry to have to
leave our comfortable quarters in the Cetran to go on board the
launch for our return voyage. We left the ship about sunset,
and by keeping close in under the land we had smooth water
all the way. I was very sorry indeed to have to go up this
long line of coast in the dark, as I wished to see some of the
people, but we were afraid to remain so far away from home, as
our stock of fuel was low and the launch was not in very good
order. We saw plenty of fires on our way up, showing us that
the coast, which from the ship we thought to be uninhabited, was
really occupied by a large population. I was somewhat anxious
about this long journey, but we made good way all night, and
early in the morning we were well up with Cape Palliser,
having had both wind and current in our favour. It was, how-
ever, blowing too hard for us to leave the shelter of the land,
and so we steamed very cautiously inshore and found anchorage
until daylight"

On account of the great difficulty in getting the people to
associate with each other, I had induced two chiefs of
Kininigunan to visit us at Port Hunter. I could, however,
only succeed in doing this by leaving Mr. Cockerell and
Beni, the teacher, as hostages for their safe return. The men
were terribly afraid to come, and at the mission station they
very nearly involved us in serious trouble. They had been

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 153

voy comfortable, and we were hoping that all our fears were
dispelled, but on the Sunday evening a native came up in a
state of great excitement and told me that the Kinlnigunan
chiefs were running away. On inquiry I found that the cause of
their fear was that they had seen my boy>Kaplen laughing, and
acting in what they considered to be a too friendly manner.
This with them was a sign of treachery, and they were afraid
that they were going to be killed. We did our best to reassure
them, and I felt very glad indeed that they had not succeeded
in getting away, as they might have lost their lives in trying to
return to their own land. In any case, if they had succeeded
in doing so they would have gone under a very wrong impres-
sion, and might have created trouble.

On Wednesday, February 16, I left in the whale-boat at
6 a.m. to open the church at Nodup, and to return these chiefs
It will give some idea of the condition of affairs when I state
that we could not get more than two natives to accompany us,
as they were all so frightened about going to the places we
intended to visit. We reached Nodup about noon. As we
neared the beach some natives came off in canoes, and told us
that Tobula and Tokaropo, the Nodup chiefs, were waiting on
shore to fight the Kininigunan chiefs we had with us, and urged
us to start away at once. This news alarmed our passengers
very much. They seized their paddles and began turning the
boat round, and implored me to start away immediately. Some
other men came off, and three of them jumped into our boat to
go with us to Kininigunan, as they belonged to that place, and
said they were afraid to remain at Nodup. I tried to find out
why the Nodup chiefs were angry ; and they said it was
because they did not wish any other place to have the " lotu "
but themselves, and were jealous of my giving anything to any
other people. The case seemed very clear and straightforward,
but I was unwilling to give way without seeing the chiefs
myself. I could not, however, venture to land, as my passengers
were in an agony of fear, and were crying bitterly to me to go
away at once ; and I myself felt that it would be very unwise to

1 54

GEORGE BROWN

run any risk, as it might endanger the lives of Mr. Cockerell and
Pcni, who were at Kininigunan as hostages, if any of these chiefs
were killed. I was determined, however, not to leave matters
in such an unsatisfactory way ; so I sent Aminio ashore in a
canoe to see the teachers and chiefs ; and then to pacify our
passengers we hauled our boat to the wind and made short
tacks off shore until Aminio returned. In about half an hour
we saw the canoe returning with the two teachers and Tobula
and Tokaropa. On coming alongside they told us that the
whole affair was a vile falsehood, that the chiefs were in their
plantations getting taro for the crew, and never dreamt of
anything wrong until they saw our boat head off shore, when
they ran down to see what was the matter. I was heartily glad
to hear this, but felt that it was no use trying to reassure the
Kininigunan chiefs and induce them to land. So I asked the
Nodup chiefs if they would come with us in the boat to
Kininigunan, and thus assure the chiefs that they never
intended to harm them. To this they consented. I felt very
pleased indeed that this affair had ended so well. Had we
come away from Nodup at once when we heard those tales the
consequence might have been very serious, as we should have
offended the Nodup people, and the chiefs who were with us
would probably have avenged the insult some other day, and it
would have been almost impossible for us to convince them that
the whole story was a He. I generally received native stories
with a good deal of caution ; but as this was told us by people
from four different canoes, I fully believed it ; and yet it was
a wicked lie without having the slightest foundation. We had a
splendid journey, and reached Kininigunan at 3 p.m. There
was great excitement on the beach as we ran the boat ashore.
One of our Port Hunter men was so frightened at the
number of natives that he stayed some little time in the
boat, but four or five of them seized him and pulled him
ashore in a friendly way, and then they all dragged the boat
up out of the water, well pleased that we seemed to trust
them so much.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 155

On March ill heard news from New Ireland that one of
our party was seriously ill, and so I started at once in the
whale-boat The messengers who came over reported that they
had had a beautiful calm night, and we quite expected the
same. We left Port Hunter at 5,30 p.m., and for the first few
miles we had good weather, when some ominous-looking clouds
appeared on the north-west horizon. When about mid-channel
some very heavy squalls passed upon us, compelling us to take
in all sails, and at the same time covering and hiding the land
on both sides of the channel. The rain poured down in
torrents. To add to our troubles, we had stupidly left our
compass ashore, and so in the thick, dark night we could only
steer by the wind and by the run of the sea, both of them
uncertain g^uides in squalls such as we experienced, where the
wind flies about from almost every point of the compass. The
lightning was very vivid indeed. Jack wished to keep the
boat well up to the north, but the natives were most positive
that we were steering right down channel, and away from the
land altogether. I generally depend a good deal upon the
natives, and so we altered our course, but in this instance we
found them to be very sorry guides. After some miserable
hours of heavy rain and wind we made the New Ireland coast
some six miles to leeward of Kalil ; and so, tired as we were,
we had to pull dead to windward for two or three hours. But
for following the advice of the natives, who were so frightened
that they wanted to get to land anywhere at all, we should
have gone straight to our destination, which we did not reach
until 1.20 a.m.

Next day, Sunday, I had intended to open the first church
on New Ireland, but the teachers and chiefs did not wish the
ceremony to take place until it was quite finished and they
had prepared some food for any visitors. I preached on the
beach through an interpreter to a very fair congregation, and
spent a good part of the rest of the day sitting alone in the
new church, and wondering how long it would be before these
people would rightly understand what we were trying to teach

'56

GEORGE BROWN

them. I had faith enough to believe that the time would
come when the triumphs of Christianity would be as apparent
in New Ireland as they were in Fiji, and I felt it no small
privilege and honour to be the first missionary to these |xx>r
people. From Monday until the following Friday we had
nothing but heavy wind and rain every day, and in these
miserable houses the situation was not at all a pleasant one.
At night especially we were very uncomfortable. The house
was dirty and leaky, my hammock and blankets were all wet,
and so we had to manage to sleep as well as we could each
night on a bamboo platform. Bamboos make a very good
bed if you have a good mattress or plenty of leaves to cover
them with, but when there are plenty of bamboos, with no
mattress, very few leaves, and only one mat between them and
your body, they seem to get harder and harder towards
daylight, especially if, as in my case, you have little else than
bones to rest upon the bamboos.

On Saturday, March i8, we opened the first church in
New Ireland. My donation towards the accompanying feast
was a pig, and the chief and others gave vegetables. I con-
ducted the services, and gave the people a little talk about
social matters in my sermon. They were anxious to get
clothes, but scarcely knew how to do so. I advised them to
plant nuts on a large scale, and they promised to do this. I
also impressed upon them very definitely the necessity for
building better houses. Next day, Sunday, Pauliasi and
Aminio preached, and after the morning service I conducted a
Society Class in Fijian, and enjoyed it very much indeed.
It was a season of refreshment to us all. After Aminio had
preached in the evening I gave out the first attempt of a
translation of the hymn "Come to Jesus." I had to act as the
precentor ; and, though I had never before been thought to
possess any great vocal talents, the novelty of the affair must,
I suppose, have excited the imagination of the natives, to the
detriment of their musical taste. They professed to be very
much pleased with the song in " Duke of York talk." Two of

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 157

them waited on me, not with a garland of leaves, but with some
wild ginger plant, as an expression of their admiration. I
might have been proud, if I could only have felt that this was
an entirely disinterested tribute of appreciation, but alas ! the
consciousness that I was expected to pay for the worthless
ginger, by a present of food and a viler but more valuable
weed called tobacco, excited in me the fear that the delight
they expressed was more attributable to their desire for tobacco
than to their true appreciation of our hymn.

On May 9 we started for New Britain. For a long time I
could get no crew at all to go with us. They knew that we
were going to Nogai, and so all refused, saying that they were
afraid of being killed. I was determined not to be beaten, and
so went down to the boat, intending to cross with Jack and one
of the teachers, and trust to getting men at Nodup. Just as we
were going on board, however, I persuaded two young men
and a boy to come with us. We got a light breeze about noon
and started. The sun was very hot indeed. About half-way
over we got a foul wind with heavy squalls. Our boom was
carried away, and we had to lower the jib before we could
steer the boat at all. Then, to add to our misfortunes, a split
in one of the planks opened out with the working of the boat,
and the water came rushing in in a way which terribly alarmed
the natives. At the same time the rain came pouring down in
torrents, and we were not able to see the land. We were in
some danger of sinking, as the boat was filling rapidly. One
of the lads fortunately had a shirt on, which I took off and
spread, with some of my own clothes, over the leak, and then
made one of the boys sit upon it to hold it down whilst the
others were bailing ; and we managed to keep the boat fairly
clear. After about two hours' rain it cleared up a little, but we
had a long, weary pull to Rabuan, not reaching there until it
was quite dark. Our little launch at this time was broken
down. Had she been available we should have been over at
9 a.m., instead of spending such a miserable day as we did. I

158

GEORGE BROWN

was heartily glad to reach the teacher's house, change my wet
clothes, drink a little hot tea, and lie down to get some ease
from a splitting headache.

Next day we repaired the boat, and prepared for oar
journey down the coast. There was a fight that day close
to the village, and a woman was speared. At night the chief
and some of the people returned from Utuan. As soon as they
landed there was a quarrel between them and one of the
chiefs who had remained behind, and, as usual, the spears were
soon handled. I went down to the beach and parted the
combatants, and then sat down and had a long talk with them
alt, telling them that the time was at hand when those constant
fights mu.st cease, and when men everywhere should live in
peace with their fe!!ow-men. It was a good opportunity for
saying a few words to them, and I took full advantage of it
Tobula, the chief, tried hard to dissuade me from going to
Nogai. He finished by saying that he was frightened about us ;
that we would be getting killed, and then when the captain of
the John Wesley came again and asked where was the missionary,
he might think that they had killed us. One of the two traders
in the group told me that the natives tried " to take him "
twice at Mioko, once at Diwaon, at Tara na Boul, and once at
Nanup ; and the other had been threatened with a tomahawk
quite recently at Waira. I believe that the reason of this was
that the natives who formed the crew of the traders were not
kept suflficiently under control by the white men. They had
rifles given them, and, relying on these, they were apt to be saucy
and to provoke the people whose villages they were visiting.
They were also so frightened themselves that they displayed their
weapons unnecessarily, and used them too readily. Up to this
time we had never been molested, nor, so far as we knew, had
we been in any serious danger. But then we were on our
Master's business, and in His hands. One of my correspondents
wrote : " It must be very nice for you to know that so many
people are praying for you." This is very true, and often the
thought that God's people were praying for us comforted us

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 159

in our trials, and strengthened the faith which was ready to fail.
It was a constant source of confidence and strength, and did not,
I am sure, tend to make us rash or careless. Our object was
to keep to the safe path of duty ; and that is as far from pre-
sumption on the one hand as it is from cowardice on the other.

On May r i we started just about dayh'ght, with the trader's

boat in company, to explore a part of the north coast It

was a calm morning, but with thick, heavy clouds all round

the horizon. We called at Cape Stephens and took in Tokabene

^Towel), a chief who was well known. We then pulled across

to Man Island (Uatam). The people all ran away when

^wc landed, but after some persuasion a few returned. The

old chief I saw was dreadfully frightened, but I did not find

««nit the reason until some time after we left the island, when

I learned that the chief whom we brought with us from Cape

Stephens had made use of us to frighten the old man in order

to get the payment of some old debt. It was very annoying

"to me afterwards when I learned that whilst we were doing

our best to assure the people of our peaceable intentions, the

cunning chief was telling them that we were his friends, and

that he had engaged us to lay waste the whole island if his

debt was not paid. Needless to say, the debt was paid at

once. We did not see many people there, and the island did

not appear to be thickly populated. We were told that food

was often very scarce there, and that the people died from

starvation ; but I do not think that is probable, as cocoanuts

are plentiful, and the land seems quite capable of cultivation.

After leaving Man Island we stretched across to the main-
land, close hauled with a fine south-east wind. We made the
land just below a large village called Rarup, and from there we
pulled up just outside the reef, passing several large villages
on our way. One village, called Kabakada, seemed to be very
populous indeed. From Kabakada we had a long pull against
the wind across a wide bay. The coast there is formed in
some places of straight, perpendicular, low cliffs down to the
water's edge. On the top is a terrace of level ground, from

i6o

GEORGE BROWN

which the hills rise some distance inland. We called at Ratavul,
a large village, but could not stay, as it was getting dark, and
a heavy squall was evidently almost close upon us from the
westward. We stood away again, after asking the chiefs to
go to Nodup in the morning. The wind was now right aft,
and the sky of almost inky blackness. Our boat tore through
the water before the strong breeze, and we were fortunately
able to double the point before the rain-isquall burst upon us.
After we rounded the Cape the rain came down in torrents,
and though we were under the Ice of the land the wind came
in such strong gusts that we had to be very careful indeed.
We had to pull the rest of the way through the heavy rain,
which quite cowed our New Britain natives, and made some
of them worse than useless. We were glad enough to reach
our anchorage.

The mountain range on the island of New Ireland was
in full view of us from our house on Duke of York Island,
and I had often wondered whether it was inhabited by inland
tribes, how wide the island was, and whether it was possible
to cross it I questioned the natives about it many times, but ■
could get no reliable information. All they told me was that
the interior was inhabited by a wild and fierce people, of whom
they were very much afraid, that there were no proper tracks,
and that any one attempting to cross would certainly be killed
and eaten. When I told them that I intended to do this,
they very plainly called me " a fool,'* and positively refused
to accompany me. I made the attempt, however, on two
occasions, but was compelled to return, because the men I
engaged as carriers positively refused to go more than one
or two miles inland. 1 was thus obliged to organise a party
entirely independent of the New Ireland natives. Mr. W. Hicks,
a half-caste trader from Nodup, joined us at Port Hunter with
his boat's crew, and we left the mission station on Monday,
May 30 (1876), and reached Kalil on the west coast the
same day.

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN i6i

Next day we left Kalil at 7 a.m. Our party consisted of
W. Hicks, J. Holmes, and myself, four men from Kalil, in-
cluding the teacher, and the two boat crews. We ascended
the bed of the small river Matakin for some little distance,
and then struck off over the first range. The ascent was very
steep, and in many places we had to climb up a path which
was almost perpendicular. The range on the west side of
the island is composed of hard coral limestone, and is all densely
wooded. From a small pocket aneroid which I carried I found
that the readings ranged from 29-95 on the beach, to 27-20
on the highest point reached. This would, I think, give a
height of about 2,5CX) feet. After reaching the summit of the
range we travelled along a pretty regular tableland, where
the readings varied from 27-80 to 27-95. From this point we
descended regularly through a country where the road led
alternately through thick bush and open land covered with
thick, high, coarse grass. The land on the eastern side of the
island is composed of a hard yellow clay, and slopes much
more gradually to the beach than it does on the western side.

The first village we came to is called Rataman. It is
situated about seven miles inland from the east coast. As we
approached the village a man met us, and requested us to
stand and get all our party together before entering it. This
we did, and he then went before to announce our approach.
When we entered the village we could see only one old man,
who stood facing us with his spear and shouting out as loudly
as he could, " Ah ! ah ! ah ! " which seemed to be an expression
of welcome. Then suddenly some twenty or thirty men, painted
with ochre and lime as for war, and armed with spears and
tomahawks, rushed out from the backs of the houses. With
spears poised, and brandishing their tomahawks, they made
towards us, shouting as though about to fight or kill every one
of us. We all stood still, and they rushed close up to us,
making their spears quiver and shake as they held them only
a few feet from our faces, as though they were about to hurl
them at us. Then with a loud yell they turned and ran back

l62

GEORGE BROWN

almost to the place from which they started, but only to return
again as before. This time, however, they rushed past us and
kicked, struck, and jumped against the fence behind us in
the most excited manner. Some of our party stood with
spears advanced as if for defence, and when the challengers
had retired one or two of them became the attacking party
and made the same hostile demonstrations against the towns-
people. I much admired the attitude of one fine, well-built
young fellow, when he stopped short and stood fadng the
people, as though about to dart his spear at them ; his whole
body seemed to quiver with excitement, and though his arm
was apparently still he made the spear buckle and bend in
a most surprising manner.

After this display of welcome was over the people all
crowded round us, anxious to be introduced to the first white
men they had ever had the opportunity of seeing. I inquired
for the chief, and found that he was not present, but was at
a village nearer the coast, I then asked for his wife, and
made her a present of a few beads, when we passed on, as I
was anxious to reach the beach before dark. The name of
the chief here was Ririana ; the village contained about two
hundred people, as near as we could judge ; but there were many
similar villages scattered about in the same neighbourhood.
About two miles farther down we came to a village called Walari,
where we found two chiefs, named Harnharum and Lomu, to
each of whom I had given a few little presents when I met
them in Kalil. They brought us a lot of betel-nuts, bananas,
yams, etc., and much desired us to stay all night ; but I wished
to have them all together in the morning, and so asked them
to come down to the town on the beach, where we intended to
sleep. Four or five miles farther brought us to the shore,
where we were well received by two chiefs I had seen at
Kalil. They brought yams, cocoanuts, etc., in return for the few
presents I had then given them. One of them, called
Kainbugina, also brought a pig and a lot of yams, ostensibly
as a present, but really for sale. The house given us to sleep

I
I
I

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 163

in was much larger and better built than any I had yet seen
in New Ireland. It was shaped much like the canoe houses
of Eastern Polynesia and was quite open at one end. It was
the large house of the village, where all the young unmarried
men lived together. Along the sides and across one end were
ranged low benches of bamboo, and on these the men sleep
in order to escape the attacks of sand-flies and other insects,
which are numerous there, and plagued some of our party very
much. There was, however, room) enough at one end for my
hammock ; and, preferring that to the bamboos, I had it hung
there, and was glad enough to get into it after our long walk.
Before sleeping, however, I went down to the shore, and saw
a large island called Gerrit Denys to the north, and a smaller
one, which I took to be one of the Caen Islands, bearing about
£N£. I do not think that New Ireland is more than twelve
or fifteen miles wide here, though we must have walked a
much greater distance than that.

Early on the following morning we had service with the
people in the village square ; we sang a hymn in Duke of York
language ; Elimotama the teacher prayed in the Kalil dialect,
which the people seemed to understand, after which I ad-
dressed them in Fijian, and Elimotama acted as interpreter.
The people were all very attentive. I then paid the chiefs for
the food, etc., which they had given to us ; and as Sagina, the
principal chief there, was waiting to conduct us to his village,
we were soon on the way again. We walked along the coast
to the south-east for about five miles, passing several small
villages on our way.

The name of the chief, Sagina, means the Smeller or Smelling
of ; and he was so called because they said the smell of cooked
meat, either of human bodies or of pig, was seldom absent from
his village. When we reached the town we were shown a
shady place under some trees, and there we sat down. There
are no large houses for the reception of visitors in any of these
islands, as in Fiji, Tonga, Samoa, etc ; in fact, they have so
few visitors that none are needed. After we had been sitting

i64

GEORGE BROWN

awhile one of the teachers, who had been looking about came
and told me what he had seen in a house close to where we
were sitting, and so I went to inspect it myself. The house
into which I entered was about 40 ft in length ; the ridge pole
was about 12 ft. from the ground and was supported by three
large pillars. The sides of the house were about 4 ft in height,
and all closely reeded, so as to be spear proof. Along the sides
and across one end were fixed the low sleeping benches of the
young men. The house was quite black inside with smoke.
Along the battens were hung the jawbones of the men and
pigs which had been eaten there, and on one batten I counted
thirty-five human lower jawbones, some blackened with smoke
and others only slightly discoloured, showing that they had
not hung there very long. To some of the posts other
parts of human bodies were hung which I cannot describe, and
on one of the battens I noticed a human hand with some of
the smoke-dried flesh still remaining on it. There were also
a large skull and bones, which they told us belonged to a
fierce amphibious animal which devoured dogs and pigs like
an alligator, though they said it was not an alligator. Just out-
side the door of the house there was a cocoanut tree, which
was notched for a considerable height : every one of those notches
also, we were told, represented a human body which had been
kilted and eaten there. I counted seventy-six notches on one
side of the tree ; but as 1 was sitting some distance away 1 did
not like to go and look at the other side. I intended to look
when we passed it, but forgot to do so.

After sitting awhile we strolled through the village. A human
skull painted red and blue was stuck on the branch of a dead
tree in front of one of the houses, and I noticed the same ornament
in front of the house belonging to the chiefs son. This house
was strictly tabu ; it was enclosed with a low wall of coral,
and no one was allowed to enter it but the young man himself:
his wife or wives occupied a house some distance away. I
then inspected the house in which some y^oung girls were confined,
of which I give a description (pages 212-215), ^cn I had

I
I

I
I
I

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 165

a long talk with the chief, trying to induce him to take us
down the coast in some canoes ; but he said that he was frightened
to go, and also he had no canoe. I then tried hard to purchase
two canoes, that we might go ourselves, but failed to do so.
My intention was to pull down the coast as far as the part
opposite to Kuras on the west side, where I had been before,
and where I knew that the island was very narrow. I would
then have sent for the boat to pull down the west coast to
meet us at the isthmus, and we should thus have got a good
idea of the place and people, and should also have saved the
long walk back over the mountains. I well knew that nearly
all our party would desert us if we attempted such a trip, but
we were prepared for that ; and had we been able to get the
canoes we should have gone with the teachers and one or two
more who would have accompanied us from sheer dread of
returning without our protection. I was very loth indeed to
give up the journey, as it was very desirable to have a good
knowledge of that part of the island in the event of another
missionary being sent down, but we could not manage it.

When we returned from our stroll the chief (Sagina) brought
me a large live pig and a lot of food as a present^ for which, of
course, I paid with another present. We then held a short ser-
vice with them. This time I tried a Kalil native who under-
stands the Duke of York language as interpreter. I spoke in
that language and asked him to interpret ; but he was either
ashamed or afraid to talk, and so I had to get Elimotama again.

As we prepared to return I broke a few strings of beads
amongst the women and girls, which pleased them very much.
When I had finished, one old lady was very anxious for me to go
somewhere to see or to buy something she had, and failing to
persuade me to go, she put her arms round my waist in a most
loving manner, and tried to lead me ; but I was compelled to
refuse to go. The chief accompanied us to the end of his
village. As we walked along the beach he put his arm round
my neck and I tried to pay him the same courtesy, but as he
was a {fine tall man over six feet in height, I could only manage

i66

GEORGE BROWN

comfortably to reach his waist ; and we walked along thus most
lovingly, surrounded by a noisy mob all talking and shouting in
great excitement. It is pleasant enough to think about it now,
but I remember that at the time, when I looked back, and saw
how far I was from the rest of my party, I had rather an un-
comfortable feeling when thinking how easy it would be for
that big fellow to tighten his grasp of my throat a little more,
and how powerless I should be in such a case, surrounded as
we were by so many of his people.

When we reached the village where we had slept the night
previous, we took up our quarters in the same house. It was a
lovely moonlit night, and 1 sat for some hours in the open
square of the village, talking with the chief and his family,
Kaplen, our Duke of York lad, acting as interpreter. I found
that I could often do more on such occasions than I could do
in any public service, as we could converse with greater freedom,
and I knew by the questions they asked whether they under-
stood or not. We were sure also that anything we might say to
the chief and a few others was certain to be repeated over and over
again to all. I never liked to neglect such opportunities.

That night, however, did not pass so quietly as the previous
one. About midnight I was awoke by old Jack, who told me
that the chief Sagina had come about the pig he gave us, as he
was not satisfied with the payment we had given him in return.
I was very unwilling to turn out, and wished to put oflF the
matter until morning, but soon found that I could not do so, as
our people were dreadfully alarmed. 1 went to the door of the
house and talked with the men who were sitting there, but I
could not make out exactly what they wanted. One thing, how-
ever, was very plain — that our crews were in great fear. They
told me that the village was full of armed men, who had come
with Sagina to help him to enforce his demands. They said
that these men were sitting behind the houses, where they
themselves had seen them ; and that they were all armed.
They begged me to satisfy Sagina's claims at once or we should
all be killed. 1 told them that I would do what was right, but

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 167

pointed out to them that if we showed any fear and acceded at
once to unreasonable demands, we should be placing ourselves
in still greater danger. So I refused to give Sagina anything
more until I was satisfied it was right to do so. The towns-
people were just as frightened of my crew as they were of them.
The New Ireland people sat on one side of a blazing fire, and
my party on the other, each watching the other and ready to
fight or run as they judged to be most expedient. I then tried
to get Sagina to tell me what he wanted, but found that I could
not understand him without an interpreter. I called Kaplen,
but he was too frightened to come near us. I called him several
times, but he wouldn't come, and at length I stepped outside the
house to go to him. As I did this rather hastily I stumbled on
the threshold, and had occasion to stoop suddenly to recover
the blanket which I had hastily tied round my waist. This
movement alarmed Sagina and the other men, as they thought
that I was going to fight them, and they darted away in an
instant, whilst our own people seeing them run made for the
bush behind the house, so as to be out of the way. There was
great confusion, and for awhile we expected an immediate attack
from those men who were hidden behind the houses, but as none
was made we called out for the chief, and at length succeeded
in getting him to come back, when I asked him to go and call
Sagina back, and to explain matters to him ; but he wouldn't
come, nor would he speak when Jack, William, and the teachers
went to him. I then went and found him sitting, sulky and
angry, in the dark at the back of the village. I put my hand on
his shoulder, and talked to him, explaining that we meant no
harm, that we had no intention of fighting, that I was only going
to get Kaplen to act as interpreter, etc., and then I gave him
two strings of beads to " pay for his fright" He returned
with us, and after a lot more talk I gave him a few beads, with
which he was quite satisfied. We found out then that instead
of the large number of armed men which our " braves " had seen,
there was no one with Sagina but his own brother. I think it
very likely, however, that if they had seen that we were easily

1 68

GEORGE BROWN

frightened by them, we should have had much more trouble the
next day than we had.

Next day, June i, we prepared to return across the moun-
tains, as I had quite failed in my attempts to go down the east
side of the island, to the supposed isthmus near Kuras. We
started at sunrise. Our crews were very anxious indeed that I
should pay the women of the village to carry the yams at least
as far as the inland village, but I absolutely refused either to
pay them or to allow them to carry the yams at all I told our
people that it was not our custom to allow women to carry
heavy loads, whilst the men walked beside them not carrying
anything at all. I then told them when they still wished to
argue the question, that if they chose to carry the yams over 1
would pay them, and they would also have their share of them
when cooked ; but if they did not carry them I would give the
yams back to the people, but that 1 would not in such a case
pay them for their journey, nor would I buy any more food for
them, After considering the matter for awhile they decided to
take them. I then engaged some men from the village to carry
the pig we had received from Sagina, and we made a start soon
after sunrise, and went along very well for about four miles, when
we came to Walara. Here our pig-bearers said that they were
afraid to go any farther, and so I had to pay them, and after
some persuasion I got other men from Walara to take their
places. Then as we left the village we found a few cocoanut
leaves stretched across the road, indicating that it was " tabu,"
and on inquiry were told that they wished us to stay all night
Of course it would have been very easy to pull the leaves down
and walk on, and some of our party were anxious to do so, but
I have always found it best to wait awhile and talk, and not
foolishly to disregard any of the native customs. We did so in
this case, and found that a little present of beads and a few quiet
words were all that was required to get the impediment removed,
and we left the people well satisfied and friendly. At the inland
village where we were welcomed with the sham fight, our pig-
bearers again refused to proceed, and so we had to pay them

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 169

and get another lot ; and after breaking a few strings of beads
amongst the women we again passed on.

The journey back over the mountains was a most exciting
one, and this was principally owing to that wretched pig that
Sagina gave us ; it was not a pig, but a real white elephant to
us ! Over and over again I regretted bringing the animal, but I
was afraid of offending Sagina by refusing his present. The
history of our journey back is simply the account of the trouble
and excitement caused by that vile animal. Over and over
again I wished it would fall over some of the cliffs and break its
neck, or that we could have pitched it over without any of tlie
natives seeing us do so. I engaged ten men to carry it, but
twenty or thirty more engaged themselves, trusting to my
simplicity for their payment, and these were all accompanied for
some miles by a long train of women and children yelling and
shouting continually. Every mile or so the men would put the
animal down on the ground, and when we came up we would find
the road blocked up, and they would tell us that they couldn't go
any farther, that the bushmen would kill them, and that I must
pay them and let them go back. This I would not do, and so we
had long talks about it, which always ended in their getting up
again and starting off with loud shouts, leaving us to follow and
to recover enough patience for the next bother. When we came
to some parts of the track, which were almost perpendicular, the
excitement was most intense, as the pig-bearers had to relieve
each other every few yards ; in fact, I wondered how they got it
up at all. Anyhow, the animal survived the operation. The heat
was intense on some of the open hillsides, and we could hardly
drag ourselves up some of the long, steep ascents ; but they
managed to get the pig up, though he was nearly 200 lb. weight.
I could have got rid of it when we reached far inland, but after
getting it over the worst part of the journey, I much wished the
men to go all the way to Kalil, that they might make friends
with our people, and might see something of what we were
doing there ; so I finally made it a condition of payment that
they should go all the way. They tried hard to get off, but I

170

GEORGE BROWN

was firm on that point. So after every talk they would stand
quietly for awhile, and then, as usual, seize upon the animal
again, and run off madly far ahead of us. When we were in the
open country, where the excitement was greatest, our party got
very much scattered, and if the natives had meant us any harm,
they could easily have attacked us each separately ; and in the
long high grass we could have made little or no resistance. 1
stepped aside at one place and waited until Jack came up, when
we went along together ; the rest of our party were far ahead,
and out of all the trouble about the pig. Sometimes as wc were
going along the road some of those big naked fellows vrould rush
past us yelling with excitement, shaking their spears and shout-
ing their peculiar challenge cry, as if about to attack an enemy,
as they went to relieve some of the otliers who were ahead.
This is amusing enough so long as it is simple bravado, but I
felt at the time that men under such strong excitement, and with
no moral feeling to restrain them, needed but little provocation
to change them from friends to foes. When we reached the
tableland we found another lot of natives from the bush awaiting
us there. We did not see them on our first journey across, but
they had seen our tracks, and so were waiting for us. They
were not a nice-looking lot at all, and we were not a little glad
to see that they were peaceably disposed towards us. We sat
some time with them, and I got two of them to go down to
Kalil with us, promising them a few beads if they would do so.
I did this to ensure the safety of our oft-mentioned pig-bearers.
After a little dinner, the bulk of the natives went on in advance,
and we walked and slid down the rest of the way in peace.

After resting awhile at Kalil I went out to pay the natives,
and to my dismay found that every one who had come with us
expected to be paid, though very few indeed had done any work
at all for us. I was at first disposed to resist altogether, but
afterwards I considered that for the sake of the teachers who
will have to visit there again it would be best to try to please
all if possible. So I selected about ten of those we had actually
seen at work and gave them each a hoop iron, a few beads, and a

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 171

piece of tobacco, and the same to the chiefs who came to look
after them. I then took a few strings of beads and broke them
up into small pieces, giving each man a piece. This gave general
satisfaction, and they all went away pleased.

I also was well satisfied with the result of our visit. We had
succeeded in opening out a path for the teachers, which I
may say now has never been closed since; we had secured
the respect and confidence of the people, and had established
friendly relations between them and the natives on the west
coast of the island. We were in some danger, especially
■when my disinclination to appear before the assembled crowd
in " native costume " created so much alarm amongst them, but
that had been safely passed through and explained. Kudukudu,
the town we visited, where Sagina lived, has been r^ularly
"visited since by teachers and missionaries and is now a flourish-
ing station, and the residence of one of our missionaries.

Next day we started early for Kuras or Kurat, as it is indif-
ferently called. I wished much to see the place again ; and as
'Vfe were baulked in our endeavour to go down the east side,
"vre determined to go again down the west coast with the two
Ijoats.

As we approached Kuramut there was a cry raised that
there were white men on the beach amongst the natives beckon-
ing to us. We kept away to the shore, and on nearing it we
could plainly see some five or six of them amongst the crowd
on the beach. Though we knew that the natives often limed
themselves all over, yet in this case we felt certain that there was
no deception, as we fancied we could distinguish the shirts and
trousers in which they were dressed, and we quite anticipated
the pleasure of rescuing some of our shipwrecked fellow-country-
men, for such we took them to be. But alas ! for our anticipated
pleasure — we found that they were only whitewashed natives
after all. I didn't exactly know what their object was in doing
this ; and as we did not quite like their conduct or their looks,
we kept on our way down the coast, and arrived at Kuras about
half-past one o'clock. It was very evident that the island here

172

GEORGE BROWN

is very narrow, but when I inquired for the narrowest part I
found that we had passed it some few miles up the coast Our
natives knew well that we wished to land there ; but as they
themselves were afraid to go there, they did not tell us of the
place until we found it out, when too late, by hard questioning.

This village (Kuras) is the place where they were cooking
a man a few yards distant from the place where 1 was sitting
on my first visit here. I much wished to go about thirty miles
farther down the coast, where the island seemed to narrow
again, and made some inquiries about it ; but the people knew
nothing at all about any place or people a few miles away
from their own districts, and we finally decided not to go
so far away at present We started on our return to Kalil
about 2 a.m.

On my return from this journey I wrote as follows in my
diary : " The conclusions I arrived at on considering what we
have seen of the place and people are much the same as
those I held after our previous journeys to New Ireland and
New Britain. There is certainly a great field for work : the
population is large, and the people are accessible. With
ordinary precautions there is no great danger in visiting them^
True, they are all cannibals and continually at war with each
other, but they are not fierce, and I believe they will not readily
attack a white man. We never saw any reason for fear, and
slept as soundly at Kudukudu as at Port Hunter. Our natives,
it is true, were in continual fear, and saw a foe behind every
bush, but that was simply their own cowardice and dread of
treachery. They were especially alarmed whenever the other
people laughed ; and all natives there have the same fear. The
language spoken on the east coast, for a wonder, differs but
little from that spoken on the west side in the same district.
The difficulties we shall have to encounter here are much the
same as we meet with in other parts of the group, viz., the lack of
authority amongst the chiefs, the population being so scattered
in small villages, the unhealthiness of some districts, and the
different languages spoken."

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 173

On Monday, July 10, we started early for New Ireland,
in company with Mr. W. Hicks in his boat. We landed on
the beach in pouring rain, and the sand-flies were a great
torment to us. There were a lot of old fallen trees along the
shore, into which we put fire-sticks, which the strong breeze
soon fanned into a fine fierce fire, by means of which we were
enabled to dry our clothes when the rain ceased. We hauled
both boats up on the beach, and afterwards lifted one of them
right across to the other side, on to the lake shore. There
were plenty of crocodiles in the lake, and so we were careful
to make good fires just outside our house to keep all intruders
away. Both our crews then gathered around the fire, and for
the first time Englishmen, Fijians, natives of Duke of York,
New Britain, and New Ireland, and men from the far-away
Hermit Islands, united together to worship God on the New
Ireland coast, and made the old woods re-echo for the first
time to a hymn and prayer in the Duke of York language and
in Fijian. We were indeed a strange group gathered from so
many parts in that solitary place.

Next day, after an early breakfast, we started to explore
the lake. We pulled all round it, but found no river flowing
into it. The shores were covered with very thick, dense
vegetation, consisting, besides the usual trees, of reeds and
palms. The water was quite fresh, with a depth of two to
five fathoms, though it may be deeper in the middle. It was
about a mile and a half in length by about half a mile in
width. When we pulled to the south end we found it very
narrow and overgrown, so that we had some difficulty in forcing
the boat through the overhanging branches. As the current
was flowing to that end we did not expect to find the river
which supplies the lake there ; but on coming out on the beach
we found ourselves at the mouth of a large river-bed. There
was no water running, and so we determined to ascend it for
some distance, as I much wished to enter into communication
with the natives in the interior. The river-bed is very wide
indeed in some places. After ascending it about a mile and a

174

GEORGE BROWN

half, we found a fine stream running, which the ground absorbs,
and this, I think, may be one source of supply to the lake. We
saw plenty of tracks of natives, but none of them came down
to sec or to molest us. After going up about three miles we
came to one of their fish-traps, which had evidently been visited
very recently ; in fact, one of our natives examining a leaf used
in stopping the water said that it had been cut only the day
before. At this place I put a stick in the ground and hung
a few beads on it, in order to assure the natives of ovir friendly
intentions. In this way we might perhaps of>en communication
with them another time. If the lake was worth a name I would
call it Lake Lydia. It is at all events the only large body of
water in New Ireland that we know of.

We had many other journeys during this year. The accounts
which I have given will, however, be sufficient, I think, to convey
a very fair idea of the work done prior to the arrival of the
John lV4s/ey- I was weary of waiting for her, and so left the
station for another visit to the mainland of New Britain. The
vessel arrived whilst I was away, on August lO. I got back
about 9 p.m. and found her safe in port. The cabin never
before seemed to me to be so nice and comfortable as I found
it that evening. It was a long time before I could lie down to
sleep, but when I did so it was with a thankful heart to God
for all His goodness to us here, and to those so near and dear
to us at home.

After the arrival of the /oAn Wesley I started for New Ireland,
on August 1 6, at i a.m., as I wished to settle some matters
there w ith regard to the location of a teacher and the purchase
of land before I left the group. I secured a good site on the
top of a high cliff, where I found afterwards that most of the
people lived. It was a very heavy day indeed for me, as I
had a good deal of climbing to do under a scorching sun, and
a long weary pull back to Kalil at night. Next day I boarded
the John IVes/ey in the channel, and on the following day we
reached Matupit and had a very different reception from that
which we experienced a little more than twelve months ago,

PIONEER WORK IN NEW BRITAIN 175

On August 22 we visited Kabakada on the north-west
coast, and found an anchorage there close in shore. As this
was the largest village we had yet seen, and in a very populous
district, I decided to station the native minister Sailasa there.
The natives were evidently very impressed with the size of
the town. I saw the chiefs, and invited them on board the
ship in the morning, and then selected land for a station.

Next day we left the ship at daybreak for Ratavul, and
then proceeded down the coast to Kabaira, anchoring near to
the German bark Etienne. After leaving this place we had
calms and light baffling winds, so that on Saturday we found
ourselves close in with the New Ireland coast. After breakfast
I took the boat and went on shore to examine the coast, hoping
to find an anchorage for the ship. This place is about twenty
miles farther north than we had been in the steamer or in
the boat There was a great crowd of people in the canoes
and on the beach, all the men being armed. Several of them
called out, " Malum, malum, malum " (" Peace, peace, peace "),
and they all professed to be very friendly ; but they were not
at all a nice-looking lot, and I thought it was hardly prudent
to land, and so we kept the boat afloat. After trading a little
for food, and satisfying ourselves that there was no anchorage,
we kept on our way, accompanied for some miles by several
canoes.

It will give some idea of the variety of dialects here when
I say that the New Ireland chief Lebera, from Kalil, about thirty
miles from here, could not understand these people at first,
though he afterwards understood a little when they talked in
another dialect. The people here say that they killed and ate
two Duke of York men, who had drifted away from that island
some weeks before. We reached Port Hunter again on
August 28.

Theyi(?A« Wesley brought the Rev. Sailasa Naucukidi and six
teachers to our help, and before leaving I had long conversa-
tions with them, and fully instructed the native ministers and
the principal teachers regarding the work which was committed

176

GEORGE BROWN

to their care. I left a good supply of trade and medicines,
and made full provision for all their wants so far as we could
anticipate them. The Rev. Eroni Fotofili also came in the
vessel, having been very thoughtfully sent down by the Chairman
of the Fiji District, Rev. F. Langham, to interview the teachers,
and to report on the work in case I should have left New
Britain before the arrival of the John Wesley. I also made the
following appointments, which I give In full, for the purpose
of placing on record and honouring the names of the men
who were the pioneers of the Mission in New Britain, and also
to give some idea of the extent of the work at that time. We
had lost one teacher of the pioneer band by death, Timocijthe
others were located as follows :

Aminio Baledrokadroka
Misieli Loli
Setaleti Logova
Livai Volavola
Elimotama Ravono
Peni Caumia
Peni Luvu
Mijieli Vakaloloma
Fauliasi Bunoa

Molot
Urakukuru

Utuan

Nodup

Kabanut

Matupit

Bulilalai's village

Waira.

Kalil.

The stations of those who came the next year, 1876, were

Sailasa Naucukidi Kabakada

Peni Raivalui Kininigunan

Josiceni Raguru Kabakada

Sione Ratunikulu Karavia

Juliasi Tunaka Topaia

Anasa Raikabo Raluana

Isoa Wainasikeci Nakukuru.

SOME INCIDENTS

Some of the incidents connected with our first residence In
the group have not been mentioned in the previous chapter,
as I deemed it best only to give the narrative of our work.
Most of the incidents I now give occurred during the first
year of our residence, and may prove of interest as showing
the condition of the people in those early days.

On Sunday, September 26, 1875, I baptized the child of
Pauliasi and Sieni Bunoa, who came with us from Fiji. This
was the first baptismal service ever held on these islands, and
it was witnessed by a large number of natives, who seemed to
take a great interest in it.

A GOOD SERMON

On October 3, 1875, Ratu Livai preached a first-rate sermon
from Mark xiii. 13. He spoke first of the hatred which the
faithful preaching of the Gospel always excited, when we had to
tell men of the necessity of repentance and faith, and to reprove
the world of sin. He told us of the trials which the early
missionaries and teachers in Fiji had to endure, instancing
amongst others the Somosomo missionaries, and the case of
Mr. Moore at Rewa, He then said : " But you may say,
What about us? We live in a heathen land, and yet have
no trials ; the people don't hate us, we have plenty to eat,
and we sleep in peace night after night ; where is there any
hatred experienced by us? Well, I say to you Malua (wait
awhile). Malua, our turn will come, God's Word Is a true

179

i8o

GEORGE BROWN

word, and you will be hated yet. Wait awhile till you know
the language. Wait awhile till you have to reprove these
men for their sins. Wait awhile till you begin to preach
repentance. Wait awhile till you reprove their pride. Wait
awhile till you preach the Cross of Christ — and your turn
will come." He then spoke of the necessity of being faithful
unto the end. " There must be no hiding the truth for fear
of consequences, no shrinking from reproving sin, no compact'
with the Evil One, and no fear of man. The consequences
may be, nay, will be, that we shall be hated of men for Christ's
sake ; perhaps to suffer persecution, nay, perhaps death itself
may come to us." Here he was really eloquent as he exclaimed:
" And what matter if death does come, if we are only faithful ?
Let it come ! Let it come, and when earth returns to earth,
ashes to ashes, and dust to dust, our spirits will ascend
away up there " — pointing on high — " to be with our Lord
for ever and ever." It was really a good sermon, and I can
truly say that his concluding exhortations to a faithful discharge
of our duties made a deep impression on my own mind.

I give this account of Ratu Livai's sermon because it shows
very clearly, in my opinion, that some, at all events, of the men
I had with me as my colleagues were men of no ordinary
intelligence, that they had fully considered the nature of the
work for which they had volunteered, and had counted well
the cost which might be involved in the enterprise to which
God had called them. It is a most instructive comment on
the proceedings in Fiji before the Acting-Governor and the
members of the Executive Council in that Colony, and shows
clearly that Aminio was quite correct in the statement which
he then made, that they had fully considered the arduous and
dangerous character of the work which they, in God's name,
were going to do.

A DANGEROUS SNAKE

A few days after our arrival I was informed of a new fact
In natural history. A snake was brought to me for sale, and

SOME INCIDENTS i8i

the vendor assured me in a most confidential manner of certain
uses to which it might be put. He assured me that if a love-
stricken inhabitant of this island wished to secure the fair
object of his choice, he had only to nip off the tip of the tail
of that very snake and give it secretly to the damsel, hidden
away in some dainty morsel, and his love would be at once
.reciprocated by the lady in question, even though she herself
had previously been more favourable to some other suitor.
Nay, more, he solemnly assured me that so potent were the
powers of this tip of a tail, that even if given to a respectable
married lady she would at once transfer her affections, and,
leaving her lawful husband, would follow the gentleman who
administered the dose. So that it seems that even here, as
it was in the beginning, the ladies are still liable to be led
away and deceived by these animals. However, to remove
temptation out of the way, the animal in question was skinned,
and safely placed in a bottle of spirits of wine.

A WEIRD SCENE

A day or two after the vessel left us, the natives from ail
the surrounding villages assembled night after night, and
engaged in dancing, so-called, from sunset until sunrise next
morning. The assembly-hall was a small cleared spot in the
midst of the thick, dense bush, just behind our house, and the
noise they made rendered it quite impossible to sleep, except
that as the nights went on I got so accustomed to it that I
only used to wake whenever they stopped shouting and yelling
from sheer exhaustion, and there was quiet for a while. Old
Jack, however, never got accustomed to it, and I used to hear
him expressing very fervent wishes for the welfare of the dancers
whenever I woke in the night. Some few of the people were al-
ways engaged in beating a wooden drum which was placed on
the top of a high platform, and all the rest simply walked or danced
round in a circle, singing in unison. Every five or ten minutes
they would stop to take breath, and then with a yell from two or
three professionals they would all start again with renewed vigour.

l82

GEORGE BROWN

The dances, so far as I could learn, were held in honour
of the brother of Topulu, known to the whites by the name
of King Johnny, who died some two years before our arrival,,
and to celebrate the bringing home of his skull after its
purification by decay. Some of our party advised me not
to go and see the dance, as they did not consider it safe ; but
some of them afterwards accompanied me. It was a strange
sight to see about a hundred and fifty" naked savages, all
armed with spears and long-handled tomahawks, dancing and
singing under the lofty trees which cast a thick gloom over
the small piece of level ground on which the assemblage was
held, A lad seated on a high platform held a blazing torch
over the heads of the dancers, which shed a lurid, fitful light
over the scene. At one time we were not able to distinguish
their dusky forms, as they danced past us, and then again
as the torch blazed up and illuminated the whole square, we
could easily see them in all their naked ugliness. It was a
weird, unearthly sight, and I could not help thinking that
any little accident might easily bring about a quarrel which
would result in bloodshed. Soon after I felt my fears were
very nearly being realised, for a man happening to drop his
spear on the foot of a man from another village, there was at
once a great outcry, which Waruwarum, the chief, quieted
however, by the novel expedient of threatening to come
down to the mission-house and get Mr. Cockcrcll (the naturalist)
to discharge his gun right into the crowd. We were all heartily
glad when the feast for which that was the preparation was
all over. It was simply a farce trying to sleep when such a
crowd of people were yelling just twenty-five yards distant
from the house.

A DISPUTE FOR A TEACHER

The first appointment we made on New Britain was
Nodup, where Ratu Livai was stationed. I intended also
appoint ?eni to Matupit, but found it advisable, in the fi

SOME INCIDENTS 183

place, to leave both together at Nodup. Soon afterwards,
however, I decided to try to carry out the first appointment,
and went over to Nodup for that purpose. I found both
teachers unwell, and so had to defer the appointment until
the next day. As we were preparing to start for Matupit,
we were detained some time by a violent quarrel amongst the
natives, which at one time seemed to end seriously, and to
involve us also. Tokoropa, the chief of the village where
the teachers were living, was very angry because Peni was
about to be removed, and he rushed out with his spear, and
tried to kill Toporapora, the Matupit chief, who was with
us. Toporapora seized a musket and wished to fight at once,
but Jack and others got hold of him, and put him on board
the launch again ; after which I went ashore and explained
matters, and got the people pacified. Apart from the anger
which was excited, it was very gratifying to find that the
people valued the teacher so much. We took Peni and
family to Matupit the next day. Captain Milne was very
anxious to establish a trader there also, but he told us that
the Matupit people had refused to allow him to land a trader
on the island.

ANGER WHICH MUST BE PAID FOR

A few months after our landing I went to Urakukuru,
to locate Mijieli and wife with Torokud, the chief there, but
found on our arrival that the house which was reported to
me the day before as being finished and ready for the teacher,
had been burnt down since then by the chief himself. During
the erection of the house he had lost an American axe, and
after searching for it for some time in vain he concluded that
some one had stolen it. So he set fire to the house he had
just finished, for the double purpose of showing his anger and
of making the thief pay compensation. The custom is that the
thief must pay for any damage done by the chief when angry,
either to his own property or to that of any other person. If

184

GEORGE BROWN

the house built for the teacher had not been handy, the chief
would probably have fired his own house, or that of some other
innocent person ; but in each case the suspected thief would
have to pay. A similar plan may also be utilised by any
injured party who has lost anything. He may, for instance,
have had a knife stolen, and the thief is probably known or
strongly suspected, but the injured party has no means of ob-
taining redress himself In such a case he goes to a chiefs land
and cuts down some ornamental shrub, or perhaps breaks a
small portion of the chiefs canoe, and in this novel way makes
application for redress. The chief is not angry with the man
who has done the injury, which, of course, is generally a nominal
one ; but, on the contrary, is rather glad of the opportunity
given him of making money, which he promptly does by
enforcing a large payment from the thief for the trivial injury
done to his property by the claimant. 1 do not know how
Torokud received payment for the teacher's house which he
burnt, as it was found out that the axe which he presumed
was stolen was only put away for safety by his own wife ;
but I am pretty certain that in some way or other the villagers
had to make good the loss.

I myself made use of this custom a few weeks after this
event. 1 had heard that one of our missing tomahawks was
in the possession of a man living at Molot, the neighbouring
village to the mission-station. Acting on the advice and
direction of Waruwarum, I took three sticks of tobacco with
me, to which I added a fathom of print The Molot chief
received thi-s present, and then paid me twenty pieces of shell
money for the tomahawk. He would then make the thief
repay him not only the twenty pieces of shell money which
he had given me, but also a few more pieces for the trouble
he had taken, and as punishment for the theft. If I had
taken more tobacco he would have given me more money,
and the thief would consequently have been more heavily
punished ; but my object was simply to stop thieving, and
the action taken was very beneficial in that respect

SOME INCIDENTS 185

THE FIRST CHURCH

On Christmas day, 1875, I made a feast for the natives
with the pigs, taro, and other food we had brought back from
our long journey to New Ireland. My object in doing this
was to get the people together from the surrounding districts ;
and by the help of the pigs, yams, and other food, I succeeded
pretty well. After they had cleared off the eatables I improved
the opportunity by talking to them about our mission, and
asked them to build a church in which we might gather
together for services. They gladly consented to do this ; but
when I told them that I should expect them to do the work
without any payment, they appeared to regard it as a pleasant
joke on my part, and it took me a long time to convince them
that I was quite serious in the matter. But I was determined
that I would commence right. I told them that I had paid
them for everything they had done for us — for our house, for
the teacher's house, for food, and for everything we had
received from them, but that with regard to the church it
was not my house but theirs, and that they must not expect
payment for it. At last they promised to come ; but day
after day passed without any of them putting in an appearance.
I followed them up, however, visited them in their houses,
and spoke to every man I met on the subject, until at last
a few of them came and professed their willingness to start.
It would have been no use my sending them away by
themselves, so I started with them for the opposite side of
the bay to cut posts and other timber. I was afraid of
overworking them at first, and so discouraging them ; so we
had to be content with the first sticks which came in our
way. We floated them across the harbour, and hauled them
up to the site which I had selected, and so the work was
begun, and on Friday, January 28, 1876, five and a half months
after our landing, I was able to make the following entry
in my diary :

" Friday, January 28. A great day here, and one which I

1 86

GEORGE BROWN

trust .will long be remembered as that on which the first
Christian church on these Islands was opened for Divine
worship. Right glad was I to have the little building so far
finished as to be able to open it I had no little trouble in
getting it built, as I wished to begin well in this matter of
church building. By the expenditure of some beads and a few
trifling articles, I could easily have got the church erected
without any trouble at all to myself; but I knew well that if we
began to pay for churches, it would be very difficult indeed in
future years to get the natives to build them without payment,
as they, like some civilised people, are very fond of quoting
precedents when it suits them to do so. I looked forward
to the time when we shall have to build, I hope, hundreds
of churches, which will involve a great amount of labour ;
and though it may be very easy to pay a few beads for the
churches we require now, it would involve a very considerable
expense to build such as we shall wish to have in years to
come. And then I was anxious that the natives should know
that the church was theirs, and not mine, and that they roust be
prepared to do something themselves to help in the work ; and
so by urging them to it repeatedly, going round to their houses
and talking with them, and by lending axes and going into the
bush with them to get the logs, we at last succeeded in getting
it finished without making any formal payment. This was the
more remarkable, as they never do any work for each other
without being well paid for it, and they have never before, so
far as we know, united for any public work. We had a short
service, and after the service I took a photograph of the building,
and then we adjourned to the station, where they had a small
feast in honour of the event. The chiefs and I had made a
bargain that I was to find a pig for the feast, and that they
would supply the vegetables ; but when I found that their con-
tributions consisted of about ten taro each, I had to make a raid
upon our own stock of yams and taro to supply the deficiency.
They were all pleased, and at once made the church 'tabu'
except when opened for school or for Divine service,"

SOME INCIDENTS 187

The consequences of this policy were very soon apparent,
for when the people who had come over from the outlying
stations to the opening of the church at the head station
returned to their homes, they went to the teachers and inquired :
" Why cannot we have a church as well as the people of Duke
of York ? " The teacher was of course only too pleased to tell
them how glad he would be if they built one ; and I had the
pleasure of opening a new church at Nodup on February 18,
just three weeks after the opening of the first church at Port
Hunter, In a few weeks this example was followed by the
others, so that we were soon able to report seven churches ; and,
as there is a spirit of emulation amongst the natives as well as
amongst ourselves, each village tried to build a better one than
another that had been previously built. They never dream
now of asking for any payment for doing so.

FIRST WATCH-NIGHT SERVICE

It is very interesting to me to read, after the lapse of nearly
thirty years, the following extract :

"December 31, 1875. We held our Watch-night service.
Several of the natives came, and we had a very nice service. I
could not help wondering as I sat at this, the first Watch-night
service in these Islands, what the coming year will bring forth,
what the future of our Mission will be — how many years will
roll away before these people will manifest in their lives and
actions that they have indeed received the Gospel in all its
wondrous power. Thoughts of home and of the loved ones
there came crowding into my mind, and there was, of course, the
natural longing to see the old familiar faces again. I had,
however, the assurance that I was where God wished me to be,
and was doing the work which He had given me to do, and so
1 could trust Him for all the future."

And now when I consider the present state of that great
Mission, and the wonderful success with which God has blessed
the labours of our missionaries in that group, my heart is filled

i88

GEORGE BROWN

with gratitude and love to Him for the fulfilment of His promise,
** So shall My word be that goeth forth out of My mouth : it
shall not return unto Me void, but it shall accomplish that
which I please, and I shall prosper in the thing whereto I
sent it"

A CRUEL ACTION PREVENTED

During our first year's residence a matter occurred which at
one time threatened to have serious consequences. Our next-
door neighbour was the chief Waruxs'arum, a man whose name
often occurs in this narrative. He was a very much married
man, having no fewer than seven wives; and it is needless to say
that with such a family he often experienced many difficulties.
Often and often I have been aroused in the night by the
screams of a woman, and knew that Waruwarum's sleep had
been again disturbed by the necessity under which he felt him-
self placed of administering corporal punishment in some form
to one of these wives. He had, however, one wife called
Nekibil, who appeared to be the favourite, a girl, I should think,
about seventeen or eighteen years of age. Like all other
savages, he was a very jealous man, and one day he saw her
talking quite innocently, 1 believe, to a young man. He crept
up behind them, and threw his spear, intending to kill the
young man, but the weapon struck a sapling and glanced off
into the bush. The lad, of course, fled for his life and got away,
but Waruwarum vented his brutal rage on the unfortunate girl.
He speared her, struck her a fearful blow on the leg with his
tomahawk, and then beat her about the body with the long
handle of the tomahawk, until he left her, as he thought, dead
in the bush.

The women all came screaming into my house, and told me
that Waruwarum had killed Nekibil. 1 ran out with the young
Fijian teacher, Beni Luvu, and found the poor, wretched woman
lying naked in the bush, and quite unconscious. Finding, however,
that she was still living, I hoisted her up on Beni's back, where

SOME INCIDENTS 189

she hung quite limp and apparently lifeless. We carried her up
through the village, and on the way her wretch of a husband
came behind and tried to spear her again as she hung on the
teacher's back. I prevented him from doing this, and we got
the woman safely into our hut. I gave her some stimulant, and
proceeded to dress her wounds, and in a short time she revived
a little. In the meantime there was great excitement in
Waruwarum's village, as he was sending spears wrapped round
with a little diwara (native money) to most of the families round
about. This was his message asking them to come and fight
for him, and assuring them of payment for doing so. In a
short time a large number came, painted and armed, and with
great shouts they set off to fight the family of the young man.
I paid little or no attention to this, as I was fully occupied in
attending to the poor wounded wife. In an hour or two, however,
the warriors all returned, having done nothing, as the boy's
family had all fled.

Just at this point, however, Waruwarum's trouble began.

He had promised payment to the men who came to fight for

him, but he was a very avaricious man and very unwilling to

part with any of his hoarded diwara. He had, however, heard

that Nekibil was still living, and this appeared to him to be an

easy way out of his difficulty, and he sent his brother Naragua

and his nephew, a boy called Kaplen, who was in my service,

to my house, with instructions that they were to take Nekibil

and bring her to his village, where he intended to kill her, and

give her body to the men who had come to fight for him as

payment for their services. On receiving the message, I told

the men to wait until I had seen Waruwarum. I went to him

and pleaded most earnestly with him that he would not do such

a cruel act. I offered also to give him a great deal of property

— sufficient indeed for him to buy a couple or more wives with,

if he would consent to spare the woman's life. He had generally

been pretty civil to me, but on this occasion he was simply mad

with baffled rage. His eyes were bloodshot, and his voice

hoarse with yelling and shouting. He never was a good-

190

GEORGE BROWN

looking man, as will be seen from his photograph, but on this
occasion he looked very repulsive. On his refusal I still
pleaded with him, and told him that if he refused my request
I could never regard him again as a friend, and I also increased
the offers I had made for the woman's ransom. I think he
must have regarded this as a sign of weakness, for he soon
began to use very improper language, and asserted over and over
again that he would cook the woman, and that he would perform
the same operation on us also if I tried to prevent him. When
he said this, I looked him in the face and told him with some
considerable force that he should not have the woman now
under any conditions. He seemed quite amazed at my pre-
sumption, and repeated again that he would have her and
us also.

I went back to the house and held a consultation as to what
we should do. There were only five of us there, namely, old
Jack, the three teachers, and myself. I told them the facts,
and said that I was quite certatnj from my knowledge of natives,
that, having gone so far, it would be very dangerous indeed
if we gave in to them at that time. We all agreed on this, and
set to work at once to barricade the house. We nailed up our
back door and window, and piled boxes against them also.
Naragua and Kaplen were, of course, watching all the time.
They were both of them very friendly indeed to us, and they
pleaded very earnestly with us that we should give up the
woman, and so avert any evil consequences. I told Naragua
that we could not possibly do that I said : " Different people
have different customs. It is your custom to kill and eat
people; but it is not ours," And then I said: "There is
another custom which we feel bound to observe. If Nekibil
had been in one of your houses I would have gone to
Waruwarum and tried to purchase her life, but if he had
refused, I could not have done anything else ; but this case is
different. We are Englishmen, and Nekibil is in my house ;
and in our country it would be thought a very great disgrace
if we let a woman be taken out of our house to be killed,"

SOME INCIDENTS 191

They still, however, pleaded with me, and Naragua said :
••What will you do? Will you fight? If that is your idea,
just look at those men outside. How could you fight a crowd
like that ? Then Waruwarum says that he will set fire to the
thatch, and you will have to come out, and what can you do
against such a crowd ? " I confess I was a little scared when
he talked about firing the house, as we well knew that that
was our weak point The thick scrub came quite close to the
house, and a man could easily hide there, and throw a stick
on the thatch without our seeing him.

I may say that at this time we did not know what we knew
afterwards, that these men were great cowards, and that
Waruwarum himself was the biggest coward of the whole lot.
I felt, however, that, having gone so far, we must see the matter
through, and so I talked very decidedly to the two messengers.
I absolutely refused to give the woman up, and sent a message
to Waruwarum to say that I was willing to pay for the woman's
life, but that I would not now give what I had offered him
in the first instance ; that I was sending a small American axe
by his brother ; that if he chose to accept that, it was well ;
that if not, his brother could keep it himself. All this, I may
say, was simply bounce, because at that time we had neither
rifle nor bullet in the house. Our sole armament consisted of
a little fowling-piece that I used to collect birds, and an old
Tower musket which was never fired, and which I imagine
would have been quite as dangerous to the man who fired it,
or to those about him, as it was to the enemy ; and we had
a small revolver.

As soon as the messengers left we closed the door, and put
in the bolt which we had provided. I then kept the only
shutter which was still unfastened open for two or three inches,
so that we could look through. There was nothing separating
us from the crowd of " braves " but a bamboo fence, which
they could kick down at any time. We both saw and heard
Waruwarum talking and shouting, and pointing to us. He
was evidently urging them to attack us, but none of them

192

GEORGE BROWN

seemed to care to make a commencement, and I have no doubt
that both Naraj^ua and Kaplen, who were both friendly to us,
had exaggerated their account of the preparations we had made
and of the damage we were hkely to do. After some time
spent in this way I saw Waruwarum suddenly take the
American axe which 1 had sent by his brother, and hold it
up over his head in ray sight. This was a sign that he had
accepted the terras which I had offered him, and I need not say
that we were all very thankful that the incident had so far
ended. I went out at once and spoke to him as kindly as I
could, and told him how glad I was that we were still to
continue friends. He came into the house and gave me a
solemn promise that he would not again injure his poor wife ; M
and I told him that on that condition she could go back to
him as soon as she was fit to be moved. This she did the same
evening. She gradually got well, and was again his favourite
wife; and I noticed some time after this, in one of Rev. I.
Rooney's letters, that when she died some years afterwards
Waruwarum manifested great sorrow for her loss.

I have often wondered since whether we were wise in the
action which we took, and I have always come to the conclusion
that we did right. We knew that the woman would certainly
be killed the moment her head was outside our door, and I
cannot imagine any man looking at that poor bleeding woman
lying on the floor of our house listening, as she did, to the
demand made for her to be taken out and killed for a cannibal
feast, and allowing such a foul act to take place. Had we been
kilted, we should no doubt have been blamed for our folly, but
fortunately the affair ended happily, and so we were not blamed.
But the question still remains, apart from success or failure :
Was it right to interfere and to take the risk ? And I certainly
believe that it was. I know of no sermon which we preached
during that year which had such an effect upon the minds of
the people. They realised as they had never done before
that we were there not for our own good or profit, but for
theirs, and that we were willing to take some risks on their

SOME INCIDENTS 193

behalf. The women especially were very much impressed, and
we heard of them saying : " Why should the missionary take
so much trouble over Nekibil ? She is no relative of his, and
yet he saved her life. The lotu must be good." They soon
manifested a greater interest in our work than they had ever
done before.

A SUGGESTIVE ACTION

The people of Outam had been at enmity with the Port
Hunter natives for many years, and this was a serious hindrance
to our work. I determined to visit them, and see if it were
possible to put an end to this long feud. I think it best to
give the incidents of the day by an extract from my diary,
written immediately on our return :

" Friday, April 21. — Went to Outam to-day. We landed at
the foot of the cliff, left the canoe there, and Peni and I then
clambered up by a path which was almost perpendicular,
holding on by the coral and roots of trees as we best could.
The village is situate on the top of a cliff about 150 feet
high. Though this village is only about one and a half or two
miles from Port Hunter, we could not possibly induce any
of the natives of this place to go with us, as they are dreadfully
afraid of the people, and have been at feud with them for
many years. Some months ago they would have tried all
they could to dissuade me from going, or would have tried to
frighten me against going ; but they have given up that employ-
ment of late, finding it utterly useless.

" We found the people very friendly, and glad that we had
visited them. I bought two pigs from them, and as I had no
interpreter we had to converse as best we could in their own
language. Peni left me to look after some wild pigeons, and
I did what I could to tell them about the lotu, and to induce
them to make up their old feud with the Port Hunter natives.
Whilst I was sitting there surrounded on all sides by those
wild-looking fellows, I could not help reflecting that I was
sitting there without arms of any kind, or any human protection

J94

GEORGE BROWN

whatever, amongst a crowd of men who were most undoubted
cannibals, and who certainly bore a very bad name amongst
their neighbours. Some, I have no doubt, will ask : ' Well, was
it wise after all ? Was it not incurring a needless risk ? Was
it not acting rashly?' etc. Well, I asked and answered that
question myself, both before going and when there, and I
firmly believe that there was no great risk or danger. The
people were cannibals, but they were nevertheless quite as
good-looking and quite as good-natured as plenty of people
whose taste in that respect is quite dissimilar. They were not
clothed, but they were as well-behaved as some folks I have
met whose clothes are much better than their conduct ; and
they felt, I am sure, that we trusted them, and trust begets
trust. They felt Peni over and over, pinched his arms and
legs with their fingers, and admired his fiine, plump, strong, body ;
but I think it was a sincere admiration of his figure unmixed
with a single longing desire to taste him. As for me, thanks
to the prominence of my bones, no native has ever considered
me fit even to be felt. After concluding our talk we started
for the shore, the chief and Peni walking hand in hand and
talking to each other as old acquaintances. Peni's joyous,
good-humoured face and hearty laugh soon made him a favourite
with them." 1 little thought at the time he was laughing at
the actions of these people that he would fall a couple of
years afterwards under the tomahawks of the cannibals of New
Britain I

On the following Sunday Aminio went to preach to them,
and at our evening meeting he had good news to tell of his
visit. He said the people were very pleased, begged him to
go back in the evening, and asked if they might not build
a small church for service. As a strange contrast to this I
had to write on the very next day, April 24, as follows :

" Outam, Watera, and Torogud's people fought to-day, or
rather they went out and trapped two poor wretches belonging
to Piritop, killing one and mortally wounding the other. They
were bringing away the one killed in order to cook him, but were

SOME INCIDENTS 195

attacked by the Piritop people, and so had to abandon their
prey, and bring only the head. These Outam people are those
with whom I was sitting on Friday last, and to whom Aminio
preached yesterday for the first time. Of course this murder
was planned before that time, and they had to fulfil the
agreement which they had made. These are the people who,
by God's grace and help, are to be raised from this savage
state, and made into Christian men and women. We can only
stay ourselves upon the declaration of God's Word that, ' With
men it is impossible, but with God all things are possible.'
The declarations of God's Word, * Ye must be born again,'
' If any man be in Christ, he is a new creature,' and many
similar passages come to us with a new force in these islands."
I have given in another place the story of the peace-making
between Outam and the Port Hunter people.

MESSENGERS OF PEACE

On Sunday, April 23, Peni went to preach at Urakukuru,
and after service there he and Misieli (Samoan) went to
Nakukuru, where the dukduk feast was being held, to preach
to the people. His account of their day's work was very
interesting. They had a good congregation at Urakukuru,
but when they asked for some one to go with them to Nakukuru
they were told that no one could go, as they were then
expecting to fight, those two districts having been at feud
for a long time. The two teachers then went alone, but when
they had gone a short distance one of the Urakukuru chiefs
who had been in their congregation in the morning overtook
them. He gave Peni a branch of a dracaena plant, and said :
"Take this to the Nakukuru chiefs, and tell them it is our
peace-offering; it is to make the road good between our
villages. Tell them our mind is this ; let us embrace the lotu
and live in peace."

The teachers then went on to Nakukuru, told the chiefs
there that they had come to hold service if they would allow

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GEORGE BROWN

it, and then gave them the branch of dracaena and the message
from Torogud the Urakukuru chief They were told after
the dukduk display was over they could preach, and Peni
did so to a very large company, gathered together from all
parts of the group, with many from New Britain also. When
they were preparing to return home the Nakukuru chief took
the dracaena stem they had brought, and planted it in his
ground, and said : " Tell Torogud that I have planted his
offering, and that you have seen me do it ; and take him this,"
giving them a similar piece of dracaena from his own land.
" Tell him that our mind is also to lotu, and to live in peace."
They brought this plant and message to Torogud, and he at
once planted the dracaena from Nakukuru in his land. So we
hoped that the preliminaries were settled^ and that a complete
reconciliation between these long-divided districts would soon be
effected. The natives seemed thoroughly to understand by tliis
time that one great object of the lotu was to bring peace and
goodwill towards men.

We were accustomed on the Sunday evening to meet at
the mission house to talk over the work of the day, and I
need not say that we were very glad indeed to hear the
account given by the teachers, who all had good news to tell.
I wrote in my diary that night, with a thankful heart, as
follows ;

" And so the good work goes on, not without discourage-
ment and difficulties, as at Waira, and here also, but still
with much to encourage and cheer us, and we in our little
meeting felt constrained to praise God with grateful hearts
on this quiet Sunday evening for His goodness to us, and
earnestly to beseech Him to bless also the labours of our
brethren far away from us on New Ireland and New Britain.
1 have been homesick to-day, but I feel glad that I am
privileged to take part in this great work. I have felt much
this evening that our success here is far more than commensurate
with our own efforts. 1 feel so conscious of doing so little,
amd yet having such good results, and 1 feel certain that our

SOME INCIDENTS 197

success is simply God's answer to the prayers of His people
who plead with Him for us."

A WILD NIGHT AT SEA

On my return from one of my visits to New Britain we had
a very trying time for some hours. After leaving the mainland
I told old Jack, who was steering, that he had better keep
away a couple of points, as I had noticed a long reef running
out from the island towards which we were heading. Old
Jack was a good sailor and a good old man generally, but
on occasions he could be as pig-headed as any man I ever
knew ; and this was one of the occasions in which this trait
in Jack's character came out. He asserted that there was no
reef there ; that he had taken particular bearings from different
points, and that he was quite certain I was entirely wrong.
I had of course to give in and allow him to take his own way,
but I took the precaution of telling two of the teachers to keep
a sharp lookout for any broken water. It was, however, getting
towards dark, and the light was too dim to see very far ahead.
We were in the whale-boat, and I was paddling with the crew.
I heard a shout from the natives just at the same time that
my paddle struck the reef and caused a blaze of phosphorescent
light all round. We were then hard-and-fast on the reef, and
1 very politely asked Jack how his bearings agreed with the
present position. It was very annoying indeed, as we had to
make a great circuit round the reef before we could get again
on our proper course ; and as subsequent events proved, this
very nearly led to a serious accident.

We were just, as we calculated, between the harbours of
Makada and Meoko, but owing to the darkness we could not
determine our position. We saw, however, plain signs that
one of the strong north-west squalls was near at hand. We took
in the sails, lowered the mast, and prepared ourselves as well
as we could for the gale. In a few moments it struck us with
almost hurricane force, and the rain came down in such torrents

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GEORGE BROWN

that one man was kept continually bailing out with a bucket
The lightning was very vivid. We could do nothing else but
keep the boat dead before the wind and sea, and let her go.
The natives were paralysed with fear, and lay down in the
boat, hiding their faces. I urged them to take the paddles
and help, but it was quite useless. One big fellow in front
of me we had named " Ugly Tom." He was crying aloud from
sheer terror. I begged him to take his paddle, but in vain,
until at last in despair I had to lay it over his back before
he would even sit up. We drove on in as heavy a squall as
I have ever witnessed, with the exception of a hurricane in
which the John Wesley was dismasted. We were afraid of
being driven too far towards the broken water off Makada
harbour, and on the other hand of being driven on the rocks
near Meoko ; but we had no means of determining our position,
as the wind had changed from one point to another. We
knew that we were in broken water, because a great wave broke
behind us, evidently on a sunken patch of coral which we had
just passed over. Had that wave broken a minute earlier we
should certainly have been swamped, fhe two Fijians, who
had .splendid eyesight, were on the lookout for'ard, but could
see no land. By-and-by, however, Beni called out to me to
say that he thought we were pas.sing the entrance to Meoko.
There was, however, nothing to be done but just to let the
boat drive, and a short time afterwards I was surprised by
seeing the two Fijians for'ard jump out of the boat and hold
her. They had seen the phosphorescent light which told of
a coral patch. We gradually got her in under the lee of an
island, and soon we had her on shore, devoutly thankful for
our escape.

We found ourselves in a small cavern, which had been
hollowed out by the action of surf and current for many years.
We were all drenched and cold and miserable. We managed,
however, to gather some pieces of wood, but for a long time
we were quite unable to light a fire. Every expedient to do
so was tried, but in vain. 1 found, however, that the bottom

SOME INCIDENTS 199

of one of the pockets of my trousers was comparatively dry.
I cut it off, went out to the boat, and got a tablespoonful of
kerosene, which I found in the bottom of a bottle. With this
we managed to start a fire, around which we huddled until
daylight revealed our position. The gale was over and the
sea comparatively smooth ; but as we pulled towards Makada
we wondered over and over again how we had manned to
escape the sunken patches, and the heavy seas which necessarily
broke over them. We were thankful to get home, and when-
ever old Jack got too positive I had great satisfaction in simply
directing his attention to the fact that he had once in his
lifetime, at all events, made a mistake I I kept the trousers
minus the pocket, to remind me to tell my wife of a very
narrow escape.

A GOOD EXAMPLE FOLLOWED

When I first appointed a teacher to the village of Waira,
about four miles from the mission-station, the people there
had a very bad reputation. They never planted any food, as
they said that their land was bad, and would not grow any-
thing ; and so they subsisted entirely by thieving and trading,
particularly thieving. Poor Mijieli had a very bad time when
he was first located there. They regularly robbed his plantation
as soon as ever the produce was at all fit for eating. I used
to get very angry, and several times proposed to Mijieli that
he should leave them, and be appointed to some other place ;
but the dear fellow used to smile, and, whilst he acknowledged
that it was very trying, pleaded to be allowed to remain
with them. " They will know better in time," he said ; " and
it is well to be patient with them, for their minds are still dark."
I suppose his loving patience must have had some effect upon
them, for in time the thieving grew less, and when they saw
the land which they had refused to cultivate giving good returns
they had an object-lesson which they could easily understand.
They saw that Mijieli planted the kind of food, sweet potatoes,

200

GEORGE BROWN

which would grow best and give the earliest returns ; so they
began to follow his example and to plant little patches of their
own. But the climax came when he took one of their own
little yams and planted it in proper soil, and cared for it as
the Fijians and Samoans know how to care for yams. Then
when he dug up in due season some yams, of which they said,
" One man could not carry two of them," the fame thereof
went far and wide, and the men of Waira began to plant, and
in a short time were able to sell large quantities of their surplus
produce.

Other examples of the beneficial effect of the teachers'
residence amongst the people were soon seen in the improved
character of the houses which they built I noticed this more
especially on New Ireland, where some of the natives built
houses for themselves after the model of our teacher's house
on that island.

OUR FIRST CONVERT

Th6 first one who attached himself very closely to us was
a nice little fellow named Tolaplapira. He lived a good
deal with Aminio, the teacher, and was very often on the
mission-station, though he brought upon himself a good deal
of ridicule and opposition. Shortly before bis death he
accompanied us on our visit to New Ireland. There was a
strange circumstance connected with the death of this lad.
There is a river at the place at which we stayed in New
Ireland which the Duke of York people were very much
afraid of. They say that if any of them bathe in that river
they are sure to die. Tolaplapira, however, disregarded this
theory, and bathed in the river with our teachers. He was
of course quite safe in doing this, but, strange to say, he
was taken ill whilst we were still in New Ireland, and died a few
days after his return. This was of course only a coincidence,
but it was one which gave us no little trouble with the people
at the time. The morning after his death I heard that the

SOME INCIDENTS 201

people were going to put the poor lad's body in the sea,
according to their usual custom ; but I sent a present down
to them, and persuaded them to let us bury him on shore.
We felt very sad as we did this, for the little fellow had
endeared himself to all of us.

A FIENDISH ACT

It will give some idea of the state of these people if I
give a story which was told me on April 3 in the most matter-
of-fact way, as though it was something of quite ordinary
occurrence. It was reported without any feeling of reprobation
on the part of my informant. He said that some time ago
a poor man drifted to this island in a canoe. The chief saw
him outside, and went off and rescued him. He was in a
very deplorable state from starvation and exposure ; but the
chief took him to his home, gave him food, and, some time
afterwards, when he was recovered, took him to the place where
the dances were usually held, and where one was being carried
on at the time. As the people were dancing the poor castaway
asked one of them, " Why is this dancing ? Is there some
pig to be eaten ? " " Oh no," they replied, " there is no pig,
but we are going to eat you after the dance." And they did
so that same day!

A GOOD TESTIMONY

At our first regular quarterly meeting the death was reported
of Timothy Lase, who was taken ill soon after our arrival here,
and died on November 30, after thirteen weeks' illness. The
teacher said that it was an old complaint from which he
suffered whilst in Fiji. The catechist handed in to the meeting
a written account, of which I give a literal translation :
" Timothy Lase, a teacher of Duke of York Island, died in
the month of November, on the 30th day, in the year 1875.
His sickness began when he got wet with rain. He was cold,
and afterwards he had large swellings on his body. He drank
a great many medicines, both those from white man's land

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GEORGE BROWN

and those we use in Fiji ; but the will of God (death) came
to him. He was taken with his sickness in the month of
August, the 30th day. Very long was the time he was lying
down, nearly 13 Sundays. The heart of him was very warm
(he was very earnest) in prayer and reading the Book every
day of his illness. When he was preparing to die he then
told us how it was with his religion. He said : ' 1 am going
to heaven. My soul is like a tree whose boughs are interlaced
or joined (with another). So is it with my soul and Jesus ; my
soul is united fast to Jesus. I am going to heaven leaning
on Jesus. I am going to heaven because I depend upon Jesus,
and believe Him.' "

A DIFFICULT POSITION

On July 3 I started early in the boat for Kininigunan and
Matupit, and had a good trip across. I observed a good deal
of caution before going on shore, as we knew that a native
belonging to some part of this district had been shot dead
by a chief in a trader's boat. Before landing I called out
to the men on shore, asking them where the man lived who
had been shot, and they told me most positively that he did not
belong to them, but to a village some distance away. After some
time I went ashore with my regular companion, Beni. I was
suffering from a severe headache, and as soon as I got just inside
one of the large boathouses I threw myself on the ground,
and rested my head on Beni's thigh. J told the people to
go and bring some yams, and I would buy them ; but I noticed
that they only pretended to go. They went a short distance,
but soon joined the crowd on the beach without bringing
anything for sale. The people were all armed and seemed
excited, but I did not feel afraid until one of the chiefs sitting
just at my back looked at me very significantly, I thought,
and asked me if 1 was not frightened to go on shore amongst
them. I knew at once that I had been trapped by false
statements, and that the man who had been shot was really
one of their own people.

SOME INCIDENTS 203

I do not profess to be a brave man, but I do believe that
when engs^ed in God's work His servants have special help
given to them, and I am quite certain that those people saw
no sign of fear, or any attempt to escape. I told them that
I was not afraid to land amongst them ; that I was very
grieved indeed at the loss which they had sustained ; that I
would make definite inquiries about it, and would see that
it was reported to the proper authorities ; and that in the
meantime I would see that proper payment was made as some
reparation for the murder. They seemed satisfied with my
statement ; but as soon as I could do so without exciting their
suspicions I got into the boat, and felt very thankful indeed
when we got well clear of the beach.

I made full inquiries afterwards into the matter, and found
that the man had been shot without any provocation whatever.
A short time afterwards I paid the people a visit, and went
with the trader from whose boat the shot had been fired, and
again made all possible reparation for the death of the man.
There is no doubt whatever that when those natives trapped
me on shore by means of false statements they quite intended
to take my life as satisfaction for the murder of one of their
people by another white man ; and according to their ideas
they were quite justified in doing this. It was one of the
narrowest escapes I had. The chief who asked me the question
as to whether I was not afraid to land amongst them became
one of our first converts in that district, and was the first
local preacher whom we received. I heard him, as I have
described in another place, preach the first sermon which was
ever preached by a New Britain native to a New Britain
audience, and he preached that sermon to the people who a
short time before had killed and eaten our native minister
and three teachers ! Such things can God's grace do.

AN ACCIDENT IN A STEAMER

On our return from the visit to Spacious Bay, of which I
have given an account, we had an exciting experience just as

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GEORGE BROWN

we made the Kininigunan coast, where we wished to stay.
We were going along quite quietly when something suddenly
went wrong with the engine, and the machinery commenced to
knock and clatter most violently. Consternation seized us
all, and no one seemed to know what to do except the natives,
who promptly jumped overboard, and left Jack and me in
the launch. He too was considerably excited, and did nothing
until 1 called out to stop the engine. We all felt that it
was absolutely necessary to ease off the safety valve, but no
one cared to go so near the boiler. I confess that I did not
feel at all comfortable as I went forward to do this. I do
not believe that there was the slightest danger in doing so,
but at the time, in my ignorance, I certainly felt as though
I was taking a great risk for the good of the whole of us.
It ,was the only time in my life that I ever felt that I was
doing a very heroic action, yet there was in reality not the
slightest danger, though I did not know it. When the boat
stopped we could see the black heads of the natives far astern,
and so had to wait. They were dreadfully afraid of coming
on board again, but were more afraid of going on shore, as
they knew well that they would have been killed at once on
landing. We had a good laugh at them when they got on
board, though we had been almost as frightened as they were.
We found that a crank pin had dropped out, and that had
caused the accident We drew the fire, repaired the damage,
got up steam again, and went on our way.

BATHING UNDER INSPECTION

When I visited Kininigunan to return the chiefs whom I
had taken away, and to get our own hostages back, I felt very
tired after the excitement of the day ; and as there was a nice
stream there I went after tea to have a bathe. I tried to get
away as quietly as possible, but could not prevent some ten or
twelve natives accompanying me. The operations of undressing,
bathing, and dressing were most intensely interesting to these

SOME INCIDENTS 205

aboriginals, who never troubled themselves about clothes, and
who seemed never to go into the water except when compelled
to do so. As I divested myself of each article of dress they
expressed their astonishment by a loud " Ugh, ugh " ; and when
I proceeded to dress their expressions were yet more decided.
I certainly never before performed my toilet under such close
observation, and never before thought that trousers and braces
would excite such astonishment. When at length I proceeded
to the most interesting matter of all, and pulled on a pair of
shoes, and tied the laces, two of the principal men each picked
up a pebble from the beach and presented them to me as
a proof that I had given them great satisfaction, and that they
complimented me as being a very clever and wonderful fellow I
My experience in New Ireland, where the same custom
prevails, taught me that for this compliment I ought to have paid
a small present of tobacco and beads ; but fortunately I had
none with me.

A QUIET NIGHT

After the bathing experience just narrated we slept that
night in a large open boathouse on the beach, with plenty of
natives lying around us, both inside and outside of the house.
Before going to sleep we sang a few songs and hymns, finishing
with, "Shall we gather at the river?" It was a strange sight,
and suggestive of many solemn thoughts. The natives were
lying all round us, and many more were squatted around their
fires outside the shed, as we tried to recall the words and
melodies of some of the hymns that pleased us so much when
we heard them sung in our own homelands. I thought much
of the words of the last hymn, and comforted myself with the
assurance that at the meeting beyond the river, when the great
multitude gathered from every language and people and tongue
stand before the throne, there will be many there from that far-
off land ; that God's servants will tell of the triumphs of the
Gospel there, and thousands who there know Him not will sing

2o6

GEORGE BROWN

the pratscs of Him who loved and redeemed them, and called
them out of darkness into His marvellous light.

COMMENTS IN CHURCH

The ways of a New Britain congregation in 1876 were very
different indeed from those of our congregations in the home-
lands, or in the older mission districts. I felt that with people
in such a primitive condition it was not much use expecting
what is called proper behaviour in the church, and my sermons
were delivered in a very conversational style. So far from dis-
couraging comments, I rather encouraged the people to talk
and ask questions during the service. I was preaching at
Urakukuru on July 23, when I received a good deal of
unsolicited assistance from one of my audience in church.
When I said something that was strange, a man who thought
he understood would repeat it aloud for the benefit of the
others. I was too glad at exciting their interest and gaining
their help to do anything to prevent it. My assistant would
say : " Why ! he (the missionar>') says God loves us." And I
replied : " Certainly I do. God is our Father, the Father of
white men and the Father of Duke of York, New Ireland, and
New Britain men, and He loves us all alike." Another of my
audience then repeated this after me, and I .stopped for awhile
to give them time to take in that idea, so new to them, but so
grandly true. Then the words : " Jesus Christ, the Son of God,
came into the world to save sinners, to make us all good men,
to make us fit to go and dwell with God, where God is, in
heaven," were next repeated with some excitement by several
members of the congregation. I then said: "The lotu
(Christianity) also will do you good as regards this life. It will
make you build better houses, wear clothes, live peaceably with all
men, and stop this continual fighting. It will teach you to love
God and to act rightly to all men." These were all commented
upon. Then I said : " Some say that the lotu is kumjjen
(nonsense, or a lie). Some say that the lotu is pikoina (bad).

SOME INCIDENTS 207

What do you say ? Is it good to lie, to steal, to cheat, to fight,"
etc. ? One said : " No, no, all these are bad." I replied : " That
is just what the lotu teaches. You know that those things are
bad, and so you know that the lotu is right in forbidding such
things." It was an interesting service, a sample of many held
in those days ; and yet, strange to say, I wrote in my diary that
night : " Oh how one misses the regular, quiet, orderly congre-
gations in the homeland ! "

MAKING FRIENDS

One of our great difficulties was caused by the isolated
positions in which most of the people lived, one district being
almost at constant feud with its neighbours on each side, and
especially with the bushmen. There was little or no intercourse
whatever between districts only a few miles apart, and this was
a very serious hindrance to our work. Two of the most pro-
nounced cases were those of Kininigunan and Matupit, and I
was extremely anxious to terminate this quarrel. When the
long-expected John Wesley arrived we went over in her to New
Britain, and on our way passed close by the Kininigunan
district. Canoes came off with the chief on board, and I tried
hard to get him to go to Matupit, but could not succeed, as he
was much afraid of being murdered if he went there. There
was, as I have stated, an old-standing feud between them, and
only a few months previous the Matupit men murdered four
Kininigunan men, whom they surprised and surrounded when
out fishing. Two of them were cooked and eaten. I felt very
sorry indeed when I saw the chief going on shore again after
his refusal to accompany us, as I had depended much on getting
him to go to Matupit in the brig, so that he might see Matupit
chiefs on board. I felt this so much that I determined that the
vessel should go on to Matupit, so as to anchor there before
dark, whilst I went on shore with the boat This I did, and
when on the beach I persuaded the chief and two others to go
with me to Matupit, assuring them that they would be quite

2o8

GEORGE BROWN

safe on board the ship. We started then to follow the vessel,
but the courage of one of the men failed him before we
had gone very far, and he jumped overboard and swam back
to the shore. I succeeded, however, in keeping the other two,
and we got them on board about 7 p.m. Some Matupit chiefs
were on the beach, and they at once recognised the chief, who
was awfully frightened at being so close to his mortal enemies.
The Matupit people, however, by our request, talked very kindly
to him, and he was somewhat reassured. The end of it was
that we were able to leave two days afterwards with a promise
from the Matupit chiefs that they would make friends with
them at once, and that they would begin the peace-making
ceremonies as soon as the vessel started. It was a great comfort
to me that I had arranged this before I left. The peace made
then has never since been broken, and the people of those two
districts now associate with each other in perfect safety.

A MEAN TRICK

On February 12, 1878, I heard that Torogud, the chief
with whom I was very friendly, had been fighting the Kababiai
people again, and that they had got five bodies, which they M
were going to eat next day. Previous to this I had never "
known of one of these cannibal feasts until it was too late
to try to prevent it ; but as I heard of this one soon after
the people had returned, 1 started off early in the morning
to see Torogud, and try if I could not prevail upon him to
give up his bad custom. Mr. Turner, the botanical collector,
accompanied us. The village was four or five miles from
the station, and about two miles inland from the coast. VV'e
walked along the beach for some distance, and then turned
inland. As we were going tJirough the bush we heard the
peculiar beating of the drums announcing that the horrible ■
feast was in progress. We hurried on, and soon entered the
village, evidently to the great surprise of the people. Almost
the first object which we saw was the mangled body of

. V.

" 5

- 5

< i

SOME INCIDENTS 209

the chief they had killed the day before, tied by the neck
to a lai^e tree in a standing position, the toes just touching
the ground. This was the only body they had, as the others
had been all apportioned out to the neighbouring villages of
Outam.

We sat down in the square, and I sent asking Torogud
to come, which he did in a short time. I then talked to
him earnestly and kindly, and begged him to bury the bodies,
and not to allow any of them to be eaten. He told me, of
course, that it was not his fault, that he did not wish to
fight ; it was the Kababiai people who wished to fight him, etc. ;
but he did not give me the assurance I asked for. After
another talk he told me that the man they had secured had
killed his mother years ago, and committed some other very
bad acts, leaving it to be inferred by me, I suppose, that it was
rather unreasonable for me to wish to deprive him of the
pleasure of eating him. I then spoke a few words to the
people around, and urged them to join with me in asking
the chief to have the man buried. Torogud then said that
if the Outam people paid him back the diwara (shell money)
which he had paid to the fighting party, he would bury
the man. This, however, was not likely to be done that day,
and in the meantime the question of cooking or burying the
man must be settled at once in a climate like that. I felt
pretty certain that no cooking would be attempted whilst
I was there, and so I prepared to remain until night if
necessary. Torogud evidently saw my intention, and begged
me several times to go home, telling me that it was getting
near evening, and that if I sat there much longer I would
certainly get the fever, and as he and I were such great
friends he would be very sorry if this should be the case.
I told him, however, that I was quite comfortable, and that
I was very much enjoying his conversation. After a little more
talk, however, he told me that out of love to me as his friend,
and from respect to the lotu, he would have the man buried,
whether he was paid for him or not, as he was very much

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GEORGE BROWN

concerned lest I should get ill if I sat there any longer. He
gave me a very decided assurance that he certainly would
not have done this for any other man, but that I was so
good to him that he felt it would be very wrong if he did
not accede to my wishes. I was very pleased, and, as I fully
believed him, we prepared to return. I first, however, went
some distance on the way to Outam, where the bodies of
the five women and girls were. We met a man on the
way who told us that it was no use our going there, as the
bodies were already on the fire ; and the strong smell was
positive proof to us that he was telling the truth. I therefore
decided to return, as I felt that it was well to be satisfied with
the success we had achieved, and that it would not be wise
to place these people in the predicament of having to
give up the bodies, or displeasing Torogud by not following
his example.

I got home very tired, but very pleased at having stopped
this cannibalism, as I felt that Torogud's example would
soon be followed by other chiefs. The old man came to visit
me a short time afterwards, but I did not say anything to
him about the matter, until just as he was going away, when
I said : " Oh, by-the-bye, Torogud, did you bury that man
the other day after I left ? " He at once answered : " Of course
I did. Did I not tell you that I would do so ? " As he
seemed a little surprised that I should even appear to doubt
his word, I turned the conversation at once, and gave him
a little present as he was leaving. As soon as he had gone,
howevefj one of our people came to me and .said, " Did
Torogud tell you that he buried that man ? " To which I
answered, " Yes." Then my companion gave a significant
smile, and said : " Oh yc&, he told you that he buried the
man, and that was true ; but he did not tell you that he
dug him up again immediately after he had done so, and cooked
him." And this I found out afterwards was actually the
fact. He had kept his word to me in his own way, but
bad gratified his revenge and satisfied his appetite as well.

SOME INCIDENTS 211

IMPROVING HIS OPPORTUNITY

Soon after my return in 1 877 I was preaching at Urakukuru,
about a mile and a half from our house, and after the service
I asked the teacher why the old chief Tokakup had not been
to see me. " Oh, he is ashamed," the teacher replied, " because
they killed and ate a man whilst you were away in Sydney.
They fought with Makada some weeks ago, and ate two of
the slain." The teacher tried all he could to prevent the
cannibalism, but in vain. The old man told me that he
himself ate of this one body, but that it would be the last
He said : " You see, teacher, Mr. Brown is away now, and
we have got the chance of doing this. If he were here he
would scold me probably, and I should not be able to eat
it" I was glad to hear that he despaired of being able to do
this again, and also because it showed that we we were acquiring
an influence over them.

GESTURE LANGUAGE

During the visit to New Ireland in December 1875 I had
rather an unpleasant experience. I had got tired of trying
to beat up the coast in the ketch Star of the East, against
the heavy south-east wind and current, and so left the vessel, and
pulled up in shore with the whale-boat As we expected
to reach a native settlement soon, we did not take any provisions
with us. When we got in with the land, however, we found
that the wind and current were too strong for us, and we
had to land at night near the mouth of a large river. The
rain was pouring down in torrents nearly all the night and
some one had to keep watch, and tend the fires which we
managed to make in sheltered places to keep off any prowling
crocodiles. Next morning, hungry as we were, we continued
our efforts to get up the coast, but it was very slow work
indeed against the current and the crew were weak from want
of food. I steered the boat quite close in shore, round a large

212

GEORGE BROWN

bay, in order, if possible, to get out of the fearful current,
and we were pulling with our oars almost scraping the beach.|
Happening to look up I saw a lot of natives darting hither
and thither in the bush, which came quite close down to
the beach. They were all armed, and we were quite within
a spear's throw of them ; but I was very glad indeed to see
them. We could not speak their language, but I stopped
the boat, stood up in the stem sheet, held up my hands and
pulled up my shirt to show that we were quite unarmed, and
then beckoned them down to the beach. They were very
suspicious, but finally came down. No one in the boat knew
a word of their language, but we managed to make ourselves
well understood by them. I put my hand into my pocket,
pulled out some red beads, which 1 held up invitingly before
them, made a most expressive gesture to indicate that our
stomachs were quite empty, made another gesture to show
that we wanted something to put into our mouths, so that our
teeth might commence work again, and then pointed to the
beads as payment. They understood at once, and brought us
some green bananas and an animal which, though really a
grilled 'possum, might easily have been taken for a grilled
cat It had just been thrown on the coals, without skinning
and without cleaning ; but as we had been for over twenty^
four hours without food we certainly were not disposed to be
particular. I shared out the food we received with the utmost
impartiality, and there was soon nothing left of the 'possum but
a few well-picked bones.

A STRANGE CUSTOM WIDELY SPREAD IN MELANESIA

When I crossed New Ireland for the first time, I saw at
Kudukudu a very pronounced example of the custom of
conBning young girls of good families in a state of seclusion
or darkness about the age of puberty. This is known in Fiji
as " tabusiga," " forbidden to the sun or day," but it is also
generally practised in some form or other by all the Melanesian

SOME INCIDENTS 213

tribes with which I am acquainted. I wrote the following
description in my diary at the time :

" I had heard from the teacher about some strange custom
connected with some of the young girls here, and so I asked
the chief to take me to the house where they were. The house,
which was about twenty-five feet in length, stood in a reed-and-
bamboo enclosure, across the entrance to which a bundle of
dried grass was suspended to show that it was strictly tabu.
Inside the house were three conical structures about seven or
eight feet in height, and about ten or twelve feet in circumference
at the bottom, and for about four feet from the ground, at which
height they tapered off to a point at the top. These cages
were made of the broad leaves of the pandanus sewn quite
close together, so that no light, and little or no air, can enter.
On one side of each was an opening, which is closed by a
double door of plaited cocoanut leaves and pandanus leaves.
About three feet from the ground there is a stage of bamboos,
which forms the floor. In each of these cages we were told
that there was a girl or young woman confined, each of whom
had to remain for at least four or five years without ever being
allowed to go outside the house. I could scarcely credit the
story when I heard it ; the whole thing seemed too horrible to
be true. I spoke to the chief, and told him that I wished to
see the inside of the cages, and also to see the girls, that I might
make them a present of a few beads. He told me that it was
' tabu,' forbidden for any men but their own relations to look
at them ; but I suppose the promised beads acted as an induce-
ment, and so he sent away for some old lady who had charge,
and who alone is allowed to open the doors. Whilst we were
waiting we could hear the girls talking to the chief in a
querulous way, as if objecting to something or expressing their
fears. The old woman came at length, and certainly she
did not seem a very pleasant jailor or guardian, nor did she
seem to favour the request of the chief to allow us to see
the girls, as she regarded us with any but pleasant looks.
However, she had to undo the doors when the chief told

214

GEORGE BROWN

her to do so, and then the girls peeped out at us, and
when told to do so they held out their hands for the beads.
I, however, purposely sat some distance away, and merely held
out the beads to them, as I wished to draw them quite outside,
that 1 might inspect the inside of the cages. This desire of
mine gave rise to another difficulty, as these girls are not
allowed to put their feet on the ground all the time they are
confined in these places. However, they wished to get the
beads, and so the old lady had to go outside and collect a lot
of pieces of wood and bamboo, which she placed on the ground,
and then going to one of the girls she helped her down, and
held her hand as she stepped from one piece of wood to
another, until she came near enough to get the beads I held
out to her. I then went to inspect the inside of the cage out
of which she had come, but could scarcely put my head within
it, the atmosphere was so hot and stifling. It was quite clean,
and contained nothing but a few short lengths of bamboo
for holding water. There was only room for a girl to sit or to
lie down in a crouched position on the bamboo platform, and
when the doors are shut it must be nearly or quite dark inside.
They are never allowed to come out except once a day, to
bathe in a dish or wooden bowl placed close to each cage.
They say that they perspire profusely. They are placed in
these stifling cages when quite young, and must remain there
until they are quite young women, when they are taken out and
have each a great marriage feast provided for them. One of
them was about fourteen or fifteen years old, and the chief told
us that she had been there for five years, but would very soon
be taken out now. The other two were about eight and ten
years old, and they have to stay there for several years longer.
I asked if they never died, but they said no. If they are ill
they must still remain. Some other girls we saw outside wore
fringes crossed over the breast and back. As well as we could
learn, they must wear this as soon as they attain a certain age
or stage of growth, and continue doing so until marriageable.
This latter custom seems to be followed by those whose parents

SOME INCIDENTS 215

cannot afford, or are unwilling to bear the expense of, the feasts
which the other barbarous custom entails. I felt very sad
whenever I thought about those poor girls, and shuddered at
the idea of any of our own little girls at home being subjected
to such treatment. Our people tell me that the same custom
in a modified form prevails also on the western side of New
Ireland. There, however, they only build temporary huts of
cocoa nut leaves in the bush, in which the girls remain."

A FURLOUGH. AND SECOND TERM OF
RESIDENCE IN NEW BRITAIN

A FURLOUGH, AND SECOND TERM OF
RESIDENCE IN NEW BRITAIN

We left Port Hunter for Sydney at 10.30 a.m. on August 31,
and so terminated our first year's residence. It was indeed
a most eventful one to us all ; and as the land passed out of
our sight in the far distance, I naturally reviewed in ray own
mind the history of the past months, and felt very thankful
indeed to God for His many mercies to us all, and for His
loving care over us. We had landed with much anxiety, and
many fears for our future ; but I left with a heart full of hope.
I have often received a great deal of sympathy from kind
friends on account of the loneliness of our life ; but as a matter
of fact, with the exception of the days when we were anxiously
waiting for the /<?//« Wesley, we never had time to feel lonely.
Every day brought its duties, and the extracts from my diary
which I have given will show that we had plenty of travel,
and plenty of excitement on the many journeys which we
made. These journeys were necessary, not only for exploring
the country, but in order to familiarise the people with us,
and also to break up the isolation in which the peoples of
the several districts lived, and to induce them to have free
and friendly intercourse with each other. I have often wondered
since those days that I was able to do so much travelling
and to bear so much exposure and discomfort, because I
never fully recovered from the effects of the illness which
I contracted at Rotuma on our way down. My diary has
many records of days when I felt very seriously ill, and some-

219

230

GEORGE BROWN

times full of fears for the consequences. The disease from
which I suffered had a most depressing influence upon my
mind, and also made me feel very weak ; but I found that
the best remedy was more work and plenty of travelling.

Before the arrival of the John WesUy I had practically com-
pleted all my preparations for leaving. At our last quarterly
meeting, held on July 7, we had fully discussed the present con-
dition of our work, and had marked out instructions, which all
the teachers were to observe. It was decided, (i) that the plan
of regular visitation and short services in the smaller villages,
which we had for some time adopted on Duke of York,
should be adopted and carried out on all our stations. (2) That
schools were to be held at least four days each week, (3) That
each teacher should give particular attention to the duty of
educating and training some of the young men amongst his
converts, to act as exhorters or local preachers. (4) That
vocabularies of ihe several dialects be prepared by the teachers
and given to the missionary. (5) That as soon as possible
all our churches should be fenced in ; and (6) That letters
should be sent to the several training institutions in the older
Districts, asking them for help. There was a good feeling in
the meeting, and the prayers offered for my family and myself
were very earnest and sincere.

And here I think it right to express my opinion of the
men who accompanied me to New Britain. I think I am
not fanciful when I assert my belief that the selection of the
men from our island Districts for pioneer missionary work has
always been under the special direction of God. We have
had good men in all our mission Districts, but the rule has
been that the pioneers from Tonga and Samoa and from
Fiji have in nearly every instance proved themselves to be
men above the ordinary rank and file of the teachers. We
had few men in Samoa in later years who were the equals
of those who first commenced that mission, and I think that
this was also the case in Fiji ; and I have always felt that
though we had good and devoted teachers in the succeeding

A FURLOUGH 221

years, yet the men who went in 1875 were specially qualified
for their work. They were very patient in times of illness,
and I never heard the slightest regret expressed by any of
them for the step they had taken in coming. They had much
to bear from the natives, but they were never discouraged ;
and no one ever expressed a desire to return to his own home
on account of the privations which he suffered. The women
also were equally brave and self-sacrificing. They suffered
much, but they were all good and devoted women, and bore
very patiently the many discomforts of their pioneer life.
With the exception of one Samoan, all the women who went
with me in 1875 died in New Britain,

We arrived at Sydney on October 10, after a passage of
forty days, and received a very kind reception from the
Board of Missions and many friends in and about Sydney.
I met the members of the Board with Rev. Eroni Fotofili,
and gave a short report of our work. The following resolution
was recorded : " That the Board desires to express its gratitude
to God for the preservation of the Rev. George Brown during
his absence for nearly two years, and for the success that
has attended his labours in beginning the mission to New
Britain. It desires also to express its appreciation of the
services of Mr. Brown, and prays that he may long live to
extend our mission work in this part of the world."

A few days after our landing, that good man and devoted
minister. Rev. Eroni Fotofili, with whom I had voyaged from
New Britain, died very suddenly whilst ascending the stairs
to the Mission Office. I had met him on the stairs a few
minutes prior to his death, and had told him that we were
both to go to Parramatta to attend a missionary meeting,
at which he was to speak. He cheerfully consented to go,
and these 1 believe were his last words on earth. He was
ready to work here for the cause he loved so well, but God
had other work for him to do, and called His loving servant
to do it

After attending several missionary meetings I sailed for

322

GEORGE BROWN

Auckland, arriving there on October 30, glad indeed to rejoin
my dear wife and children, and to be at home again. They
were all well, and had been lovingly cared for by our kind
friends in Auckland during my long absence. Going to New
Zealand was always " going home " to me ; but on this occasion
my heart was full of gladness and of gratitude to God as we
steamed up the lovely Waitemata to the wharf, where many
kind friends were awaiting our arrival. As soon as possible
I told my dear wife of the success of our mission, of the
wish of the Board of Missions that I should continue the
work, and that I had deferred the answer until I had consulted
her on the subject. I told her that if we returned we should
have to leave four of our children behind us. I well knew how
very painful this would be to her, but there was never the
slightest doubt in my mind as to what the decision would be.
My wife, as all our friends know, is a woman of few words,
and she simply said : " I can never be a hindrance to you
in your work. If it is God's will that you return to New
Britain I am sure that it is also His will that I should go
with you. God will take care of our children." So by the
return of the steamer I was able to place myself at the
disposal of the Conference and the Board of Missions for
reappointment to New Britain. This was accepted by the
Board at a meeting held on November 15, and so our way
was clear to make the necessary preparations.

I was only able to stay a few weeks with my family in
New Zealand, as I had to be in Sydney for the New South
Wales and Queensland Conference early in January. At that
Conference the affairs of the mission received very careful
consideration, and I was much strengthened by the interest
which was manifested in our work. A very kind resolution
was also adopted by the Conference, expressing its gratitude
to Mr. Henry Reed of Launceston, Tasmania, for the deep
interest which he had taken in it He had not only granted
sufficient funds for the purchase of the steam launch, about
which 1 have written so much, but on hearing that I had

A FURLOUGH 223

consented to return to New Britain, and that my family would
have to remain in the colony in order to be educated, he had,
consequent on an arrangement of this kind being made,
promised a sum of ;^200 a year so long as I was engaged
in that field of labour. He had also very generously forwarded
another draft of ;^200 for the purpose of securing a second
European missionary to accompany us. I thoroughly appre-
ciated some of the remarks which were made in Conference
with regard to Mr. Reed, and especially those made by the
late Rev. W, J. K. Piddington, who, in supporting a resolution
of thanks to Mr. Reed, who was an old friend of his, said :
*' He was a man whose gifts were always accompanied with
fervent and prevailing prayer. Would to God we had more
such men as Henry Reed ! "

After the Conference I was constantly employed in visiting
the various circuits in the respective colonies. Many a kind
word which was spoken in those days was soon forgotten by
the speakers, but to me they were a source of strength
in many a time of depression and sorrow whilst we were in
New Britain.

A large house was made for us in Sydney, and a car-
penter, Mr. McGrath, was engaged to help in its erection in
New Britain.

We left Sydney on Friday, May 18, 1877. A large number
of ministers and friends were down on board to say good-bye,
and many of them went with us down the harbour. We arrived
in Fiji on June 5, and did not leave that port until July 2 for
Samoa, which group we reached on the 13th. There had just
been a big fight between two of the political parties in that
group, called respectively Puletua and Malo, when the former
were defeated and laid down their arms, and surrendered the
day on which we reached Apia. The disturbed political state
of the group caused the British Consul, Mr. Liardet, to impress
ihtjohn Wesley for the purpose of carrying despatches to Fiji.
We protested against this action, as I was afraid that it would

224

GEORGE BROWN

prejudice the natives against us, by conveying the impression
that we were taking sides in the matter, and that in the event
of any complication arising between the British authorities and
the Samoan Government, we should be blamed by the natives
as the cause of their troubles. In fact, I felt so strongly on
the matter that I determined that if he (the Consul) refused
to allow me to tell the Government, I would either refuse to
go in the ship, or I would take all responsibility myself, and
tell the Samoans without his permission that we had no choice
in the matter ; but that if he as Consul demanded the ser\^ices
of a British ship, the captain must obey his orders. This I
suppose had some effect, as I was allowed to communicate with
the Government, on condition that I did so in his office, and
that we went at once from the Consulate to our boat, and set
sail immediately, without taking any letter or holding any
communication whatever with any one else. The members of
the Government thanked me very much for what I had done,
assured me that they fully understood that we were acting
under compulsion, and that they would explain our exact
position to the other members of the Government. The Consul
alao thanked us, and we left for the ship and were soon at
sea. We did not anchor in Fiji, but simply left the letters, and
went on our way to Rotuma, which place we reached on July 30.
We were very kindly received there by the Rev. T. Moore.

We had a long, tedious passage from Rotuma, having very
thick, dirty weather nearly all the way ; and when off the
entrance to St George's Channel we fell in with a strong
current, which set to leeward on the east coast of New Ireland.
As we neared the island, August 21, I was very anxious indeed
to know how the teachers had fared during my absence, and
we were a good deal troubled when we got off Port Hunter
and saw no boat coming off to us. After awhile, however,
the flag was hoisted on the mission-station, and right glad we
were to see it As the John Wesley had to beat in, I landed first
with some of the teachers in the boat, and when just inside
the harbour we met the teachers from the station coming out

iSECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 225

to us in the mission-boat Our first question was naturally
as to the state of their health. They informed us that one
teacher, Aminiasi, two teachers* wives, and two children were
dead, but all the rest of the party were well, though several of
them had been ill during the year.

It will be remembered that when I left I had appointed
the native minister and all the teachers to their stations, and
had definitely instructed the native minister to see that these
appointments were carried out as soon as possible. I was,
therefore, very grieved when we got on shore to find that the
native minister and many of the teachers were still living
together at Port Hunter, where they had formed quite a little
village of their own. On asking the reason for this I could get
nothing at all definite from Sailasa. None of the teachers had
been injured or threatened by the natives, and nothing whatever
had occurred to prevent the location of the native minister
and the teachers in the villages to which I had appointed
them. Only three of these appointments had been carried
out, and in all of them the work had been safely prosecuted.
The native minister had been appointed to Kabakada, but I
found that he had never even visited the place ; and that, not
content with neglecting his own appointment, he had kept all
the other teachers doing absolutely nothing at Port Hunter.
I was very sorry indeed to find that the man on whom we
had placed such dependence for the conduct and oversight
of our mission had proved himself to be so incompetent for
the position. I think it right, however, to say that Sailasa
proved himself afterwards to be a good and earnest minister
when working under the direction of others.

This state of affairs naturally caused some feelings of dis-
appointment on landing, but otherwise the reports were good from
all the stations, and the hard work in which we were at once
engaged gave us little time for indulging in regret for what had
taken place in the past. I found that three new stations had
been taken up, in accordance with my instructions when leaving,
namely, Kininigunan, Raluana, and Karavia ; that a white man

226

GEORGE BROWN

named Jamieson and a Solomon Island woman had been
murdered by the natives in Kabaira ; that another trader's wife
had been poisoned ; and that this had led to a collision with
the natives, and the station had to be abandoned. During the
next few weeks we were very busily engaged in landing the
limber and stores. Whilst the vessel was in port we got
the captain to set in the first block of our new house, which he,
of course, did in a regular shipshape manner. After the John
Wesley left us ray wife, the children, and I, had to do the best
we could for many months in the little house in which I
camped during the first year of the mission ; and as the
principal part of it was taken up with stores, we had very little
room indeed in which to move about.

I found myself with twenty-six teachers and their families
on hand, with all our stores and material to arrange and care
for, and the house to build ; so there was quite enough to
occupy every hour of our time. I could have managed much
better had I been able to use our whale-boat, but the teachers
left behind had regularly wrecked her in bringing over food
from the large islands, and until she was repaired she was quite
useless, and I had to depend entirely upon the steam launch.
As I had to take the carpenter with me to stay in her whilst
I went on shore, this delayed our house-building very materi-
ally. 1 had, however, to arrange for the location of Sailasa,
the native minister, and some three teachers, on the north
coast of New Britain, and as the north-west season was begin-
ning, I thought it advisable to land at Matupit in Blanche Bay,
rather than risk the long journey round the point outside. We
left the launch at anchor at Matupit and journeyed in a canoe
to Malakuna, after which a two hours' walk overland brought
us to Ratavu! on the north-west coast, where I determined to
locate one of the teachers. In this overland walk we, of course,
only crossed the long crooked volcanic peninsula which has
formed Blanche Bay. It seemed to be a long journey to Kaba-
kada, and the day was very hot, so I decided to venture in
a canoe ; but heartily did I regret my decision, when I found

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 227

myself in deep blue water about a mile and a half from the
beach, in a nasty, spitting sea, which ever and anon jumped
into our canoe in a most spiteful manner, half filling her with
water, and quite alarming me lest we should go down in deep
water ; in fact, we were only saved from doing so by constant
bailing, and by one of the crew jumping overboard once to
hold her up whilst the other bailed her out. I stepped out
of her at last with much satisfaction, and with many resolves
that 1 would never again trust myself in such a craft on such
a passage.

I found that Kabakada had been occupied by Messrs.
Southwell and Petherick, who were trading for Messrs. Goddefroy.
The first-named gentleman had his wife with him, so the place
presented quite a civilised appearance, and I was kindly
received and hospitably entertained by them during my stay
at Kabakada. The principal chief of that district was called
Bulilalai. He was accused of being the instigator of Jamieson's
murder at Kabaira, ten miles distant, and as the Conflict man-
of-war schooner had tried to get hold of him, he was very
frightened, and kept away in the bush when any strangers
were about. I heard that he was down on the coast, and
tried to get to see him, but he would not come near the
house. I then sent a message telling him that I was unarmed,
and that I would meet him with a single teacher at any place
which he might appoint. When the messenger returned, I
went with one of our teachers, but Bulilalai had gone into the
bush when we reached the place. I contented myself with
sending him a small present, and asking him to meet me in
the morning. Next day, however, I found that he was still
afraid, and so I thought it best to leave him alone for a while,
as I might only confirm his suspicions if I pressed the matter
just then. I sent all the message I wished to send by another
chief. At Kabakada I bought a fine piece of land for Sailasa's
house, and made an agreement with the chief to help in the
erection of it. We then returned to Ratavul, where I arranged
for the purchase of another piece of land by the teachers. After

228

GEORGE BROWN

staying for awhile at the house of Mr. Brunow, a trader recently
located there by Captain Levison, we returned across the land to
Malakuna, reaching that place just at sunset After some little
trouble we got a canoe and pulled back to Matupit, having
done a good day's work. I heard at Kabakada that the trading
station at Kabaira, where the man Jamieson was killed, had
been again abandoned. This was then the only trading
station which had been established at any place where our
teachers were not located, or where we had not been in the
habit of visiting. At all the other places the traders had been
quite safe. I was much annoyed when we reached Matupit
to find that the natives there had broken open the lockers
in the steamer and stolen almost everything that was of any
use to them, and some other things, such as screw wrenches,
oil feeder, etc., which were of no use at all to them, but were
indispensable to us. The thieves were known, but the chiefs
had little or no power to compel restitution, and it was not
until late on Sunday night that we could recover the articles
which it was absolutely necessary for us to have to enable us
to manage the steamer.

On October 9 we held our general meeting, when I formally
inquired into all that had taken place during my absence.
I found occasion to administer reproof in several instances ;
but there was, I am happy to say, no occasion for any serious
exercise of discipline. We had a most interesting meeting,
and our future conduct and plans were well considered. The
appointments were then made. We had seven stations in
Duke of York, eleven on New Britain occupied by thirteen
teachers, and five on New Ireland occupied by six teachers.

1 found even at that time abundant proofs that the
influence of our work was being felt and acknowledged by the
natives. I noticed a great change since we arrived here in 1875.
At that time you would not have seen a single person, male
or female, with any clothing on at all, but now (1877) there were
great numbers who would have been ashamed to go without
clothes. When we first came every man went about armed with

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 229

a spear and a tomahawk, but at this time we rarely saw an
armed native about the place. But perhaps the greatest change
was apparent in their own social intercourse. In the earlier
days natives never went out of their own district except to
villages where they had regular trading relations, but at this
time many of the villages interchanged visits and were on
friendly terms with each other. As an instance of this I give
the following extract from my diary, written on November 22 :
" The chief of Outam and a large number of his people came
to the mission-station to-day to have a look at our house.
This is the first time that they have ever been in this village,
though they live within three miles of us. The old chief told
me that he had never set foot in it before to-day, and they
all said that it was only through Christianity that they had
been able to come. As it was, they were all well armed and
only came in force, and with much fear and trembling."

On New Ireland this change in their social relations was
very apparent. The natives themselves noticed this, and often
told me that before the lotu came to them they were always
at war, but now they were forgetting how to fight It is
indeed the same gospel of peace still. Another point which
I noticed as affording valuable testimony to the wisdom of
our plan of carrying out this evangelistic work principally by
native teachers, was the testimony which our teachers gave me,
that the natives often considered them as belonging to them,
and forming part of their own community, and that they did
not thieve so much from them as they formerly did, and were
also very much ashamed if they were caught doing so.

On Monday, October 22, I started for New Ireland, Topaia
District, as I wished to arrange for the location of the teachers
just appointed there. We had very rough weather, and our
experiences were at times decidedly unpleasant We explored
the large river for some distance by canoe and on foot. It
was the largest river here, and we had some trouble to pull
against the rapid stream. After going about a mile the river

230

GEORGE BROWN

widened, and was much shallower, so we got out and walked.
We shot no birds that were new, nor did we see any natives.
We came upon one solitary footprint in the sand, which made
the lad who was with me turn almost pale with fear, as
they arc very frightened of these terrible bushmen. He was
very glad indeed when we decided to return to the beach.
We slept on the beach that night, and next morning started
for Kabatigoro, Here we had to remain until night, as the
strong south-east wind eflfectually stopped our progress. There
was a very heavy sea running on the coast against which it
would have been simple folly to try and contend, so we made
ourselves as comfortable on the beach as the ants, etc., would
allow us to be, and waited for the moon to be well overhead,
when we started for KaliL As soon as it was daylight I
occupied myself in skinning an alligator, which the natives had
caught and sold to me. It was not a large one, but it was a
tough job, and I was glad to get through with it just as we
reached our destination. I arranged for one of the teachers
to be stationed here, and selected a site for the station. Next
day, as the strong wind still continued, I determined to leave
the steamer at anchor and walk back to a town called Waatpi,
which I had not been able to visit the evening before. It
was a long walk, but I was glad we went. I decided upon
stationing a teacher there, and so selected a site for his house.
We had a miserable walk back, especially over the loose shingle
on the beach. My shoes were nearly worn out, in fact the
soles were quite gone in some places, so that the loose sand
and pebbles worked in. For a long distance the only ease I
could get was by walking in the surf on the beach, so that
the rush of the water through the holes in the boots might
alter the position of the gravel inside occasionally. I was
heartily glad when, on limpin'; round one of the points, I saw
the little Henry Rod riding bravely to her anchor. I had been
a little anxious about her, and so I was the more pleased to
see that all was right

On our return to Port Hunter we found the ketch ^ tar of

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 231

the East at anchor. She was brought by two gentlemen
from Sydney, Mr. Powell and Mr. Wood, on an exploring and
trading expedition. Mr. Turner, from the Botanical Gardens,
Sydney, also formed one of the party and was engaged in
collecting living and dried plants.

On October 3 1 I was able to make the following statement
in my diary : " We held our usual prayer-meeting this morning,
and I returned from it with a very thankful heart, for this was
the first time that any of these people had taken any public
part in our service. I called upon Aminio to pray in Duke of
York language, and also Peni Lelei of Molot, and Topilike of
New Ireland. Peni was a little nervous at first, but soon
recovered, and offered a very beautiful, simple, childlike prayer
to God, thanking Him for His love, and entreating Him to
help and bless and guide him and all these people into the
true knowledge of Himself, the one true God. My eyes filled
with tears as I heard him pray, and I thanked God with a
grateful heart Topilike's prayer was in the New Ireland
language, of which I only understood a little, but it was very
appropriate. We prayed in Fijian, in Samoan, in English, in
Duke of York, and New Ireland languages ; but God heard and
understood, and He will answer all. Oh ! how thankful I feel
to Him as I write these few lines. May the time soon come
when all these people shall know and serve Him."

Early in December I had to visit New Ireland again, in
order to take the teachers' wives and goods over to them.
They (the teachers) went over some few weeks previously, and
had been engaged in putting up their houses on three new
stations. We left Port Hunter in the ketch Star of the East,
with the whale-boat in tow. Mr. Powell kindly offered to
accompany us, and as we had so many to take with us I gladly
accepted his kind offer. We were absent for about ten days. I
did a good part of my work in the whale-boat, as I found that
I could do it more quickly by pulling to windward close in
shore instead of trying to beat up outside. I had, however, an
unpleasant experience in doing so, which I have given un^er th^

232

GEORGE BROWN

head of " Gesture Language

I " Incidents." At one place
visited Ka]il, Kait, the lagoon Pana Kabatigoro, and otherj
spots. When we left the latter place we pulled down to tne
river Kamdaru, and rested there for a while. 1 went up into the
bush to shoot whilst waiting for the bushmen from Alaket to come
down to us, according to a promise which they had made ; but
they did not come, and after hearing the story which Kaplen
told me as we were out shooting, I did not wonder at their still
suspecting treachery. He said that a few years ago his father,
King Joni, Topulu, and some others came over there and traded
for provisions with these Alaket people, and so in time gained
their entire confidence. On one of their visits they blew the
conch shell as a signal for the bushmen to come down and
trade with them. One man and two women, one a girl of about
eighteen, came down, but instead of receiving them kindly the^
Duke of York men treacherously killed the man and one womaOij
and took the other one away with them, still alive, thougt
wounded. This poor girl sat in the canoe all the way overl
to Duke of York, and I believe the men were anxious to save
her life ; but when the Duke of York women heard this they
all rushed upon her like a lot of furies, and killed and ate her.!
Kaplen told me that he saw this himself, and that his own
mother was one of the principal ringleaders of the women ; so
it must have taken place only a few years before

I visited each station again, and also our old one at KaliLl
I wrote in my diary : " We shall do well on New Ireland ; in
fact, 1 think we have had more success at Kalil than we have
had at any other place. Le Bera, the chief there, is a nice
fellow, and has more influence than most of the chiefs seem
to have. He strictly observes the Sabbath, and is very attentive
to the service. The teacher was telling me to-day as we came
over in the boat, that he (Le Bera) is very kind indeed to him,
and often gives him presents — real presents, be it known, for
which he actually refuses to take any return present. There
is hope for New Ireland after that. My presents always cost
mc twice their value, and I never expected to hear of any of

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 233

these people so soon understanding the relation in which the
teacher stands, and their duties to him. Some few weeks ago
the bushmen were fighting, and one man was killed. They
brought the body a long distance to Le Bera, fully expecting
that he would buy it as he used to do ; but he positively refused
to do so, telling them that he was " lotu " now, and that he
had given up cannibalism. They still pressed him to buy, but
desisted when he gave them a significant hint that if he wished
to eat human flesh again it was easy enough for him to kill
some one for himself."

We again had a very rough time of it on the New Ireland
coast. I had to spend the last night on the open beach, trying
to sleep on the large coarse gravel of which it is composed,
and was tired enough to be able to do so except when some
lump of stone forced itself between my ribs, and compelled me
to change my position, or when I had to dig out one of the
cobbles on which my hip bone was grinding to make a hole
in which it could fit with less discomfort to myself. I generally
managed to hang my hammock under a tree, but the rain drove
me out that night to try and find shelter under a fallen log.

During the two latter months of that year there were several
collisions between the natives and the traders, and some of the
trading stations were burnt.

On January i, 1878, we left Port Hunter in company with
the ketch Siar of the East, for our second visit to Spacious
Bay. Our party consisted of Mr. Powell, Mr. Wood (the
owners of the vessel), Mr. Turner of the Sydney Botanical
Gardens, and Mr. Holmes (old Jack), with two natives on the
ketch ; and Mr. McGrath (the carpenter), a Samoan teacher,
Sositeni, with myself and four natives on the steam launch.
I wished to explore Spacious Bay again, and as Mr. Powell
and his party were also anxious to do so we decided to go
together. The journey was too far for us to make alone, as
we could not carry sufficient coal in the launch, but with the
ketch this was quite practicable. On January 3 we were

234

GEORGE BROWN

near Cape Buller. Mr. Wood and I went in shore in the
steam launch to look for an anchorage. We landed at the
mouth of a small creek, which we followed up in the boat for
a short distance. It was very evident to us that there had
been a recent upheaval at this place, as the bed of the creek,
and also the sides of it, were entirely composed of large blocks
of coral and coral debris. Whilst on shore I felt very unwell,
and had many symptoms which reminded me of my old attacks
of elephantiasis in Samoa ; but as I had never had an attack
since I came here I paid but little attention to them. As soon,
however, as 1 got on board all doubt about the fact was speedily
dispelled, and 1 knew at once that my old enemy had made
a fresh attack. I was seized with violent shiverings, together
with great prostration. Though I was in a bunk in the little,
close cabin of the ketch, with three blankets over me. I still
felt bitterly cold. The disease ran its usual course, and ere
long I was very hot and feverish, and a violent inflammation
of the leg was fully established. Next day I was still a close
prisoner, miserable and despondent, wanting to work, wanting
to go ashore, but unable to stir.

Whilst we were in the ketch Mr. Wood coasted close in
shore with the steam launch, and saw numbers of natives on
the beach. He tried all he could to get into friendly intercourse
with them, but in vain. They were quite unapproachable, and
slung stones at the steamer, shook their spears in a very
warlike manner, and made the most insulting and indecent
gestures in what one of the party called " regular Whitechajjcl
style," and they were always named by us the " Whitechapellers,"
to distinguish them from all the other natives we met. At
this place also Kaplen, our Duke of York lad, caused a great
sensation on board by calling out : " Oh, look at their tails
There they are at last ! " And at once all heads were thrust
out, regardless of stones or anything else. The tails were
there certainly, round and of the regular orthodox shape ;
but a close inspection showed that they did not wag, or even
project stiffly behind, but only dangled flabbily ; and on a

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 235

still closer inspection they resolved themselves into the plaited
ends of the cloth bands which these people all wore round
their loins. Our Duke of York people at that time wore no
clothes at all, so it was quite new to them to see men wear
any covering.

The next two days were spent in coasting along during
the day, and anchoring during the night at some convenient
place for wood and water. On Monday, the 7th, we steamed
into a fine snug bay at the extreme end of Spacious Bay.
This pleasant and safe harbour we called Henry Reed Bay,
by which name it is still distinguished on the charts. We
found a large river emptying itself into the bay. This we
ascended for five or six miles, when we were stopped by
shallows. It was by far the largest river we had yet seen in
those parts. We passed through some very pretty reaches,
and found large numbers of a species of eucalyptus growing
on the banks of the river, some of them being very large,
fine trees. This was very interesting to Mr. Turner, as there
was no previous record of any eucalyptus being found in
New Britain.

Next day some of our party went on shore early to cut
firewood for the steam launch, whilst Mr. Wood, Mr. Turner,
and I, ascended another creek in the boat. We named this
Gum-Tree Creek, from the large number of fine trees we found
on the banks. I was left in charge of the boat, whilst the rest
of the party went away to cut down a gum-tree for a specimen
of the wood, and also to get the seeds and flowers. I improved
the time by shooting some specimens for my collection of
natural history. In the evening we sailed for the village at
which I had landed on my previous visit As soon as we saw
the natives, those of us who had been there before were
unanimous in our opinion that they were not the people we
saw on our first visit. It will be remembered that I described
them as being lighter in colour than our own natives, with
straighter hair ; that the chiefs had more power ; and that the
women seemed to occupy a much higher social position. The^e

236

GEORGE BROWN

people that we saw on our second visit were just the same as
the natives all down the coast along which we had come. The
explanation was very clear when we went on shore. It was
very evident that the natives whom we had seen two years ago
had been entirely destroyed, or driven away by the bush
natives. We found one large village containing thirty-two
houses, all enclosed by a strong fence, but quite deserted. Many
other houses had been burnt, and amongst the ashes of one
of them were large quantities of human bones. One of the
natives whom we now met pointed to them in an exulting
manner, and we all felt that some horrible butchery had been
perpetrated there not many weeks ago. One of the houses
was forty feet in length, by about sixteen in width, and was
of a far superior make to any we had ever yet seen in those
part.s. The large central pillar was carved and painted, and at
one end of the house the sides were covered with fine reed
work, which was also carried up to the roof, and formed a
dome round the large pillar. The house, indeed, was as far
superior to those in Duke of York as a good villa is to an
Australian gunyah. We went on shore to trade, but found
that they had very little food indeed to spare ; in fact, we
could scarcely get anything at all from them. They were a
rough lot, and very suspicious. At this place Kaplen, my
boy, and two others, saw and shot at an animal about the
size of an average pig. Kaplen, who had been to Sydney,
said it was a monkey. It was not that, of course, but the
question what it was has still to be answered.

Next day we ran down the bay before a strong trade-wind,
but found no safe anchorage. We hauled our wind from near
Cape Orford, and stretched across for the opposite shore on our
return. On Friday, the nth, we were beating all day, but had
to run back to our previous anchorage at night There was a
great crowd of natives on the beach, who tried to get us ashore ;
and I think we should have gone, but we had no means of
doing so. Towards evening the natives commenced to stone
us, and made some very good shots, as many of their stones

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 237

passed just over our heads, and struck the water with great
force on the other side. I have always found that natives who
use the bow and arrow are much more dangerous than those
who have only spear and tomahawk, as many of them can
shoot with great accuracy ; and on this occasion I was
compelled to form a high opinion of the accuracy with which
natives can use the sling and stone, and of the great distance
at which this weapon is effective. The stones sent from the
beach seemed to come with the force of bullets, though we
were some distance out at sea.

We did not reach home until after midnight on the 13th,
but I was very pleased indeed that I had been able to make
the trip, as I was fully satisfied that there was a good opening
for mission work in and about Spacious Bay, and that it would
be quite practicable to establish stations there when we were in
a position to do so. We had also found that there was no
waterway to the opposite side of the island, as many people
had supposed.

On January 30 we heard, much to our surprise, that the
old volcano in Blanche Bay was in eruption. I was just
recovering from a severe attack of fever and elephantiasis, and
so could not go over, even if it had been safe to do so. A
day or two after I heard that Jeremia, the teacher at Topaia,
was very ill, and so I decided to postpone my visit to the
volcano and at once to visit him. We left at noon on Febru-
ary S in the whale-boat. On our way over we could plainly see
the volcano in full eruption, and thick, heavy clouds of smoke
hanging over it, and hiding the coast for many miles. We got
near Kabatigoro a little before sunset. A native on the coast,
anxious to give us the news, ran along calling from the beach
to tell us that Jeremia was dead. It seemed to please him
that he was the first to tell the bad news. We found all the
teachers ill when we landed. One great trouble I had with
the Fijians was to induce them to make raised bedsteads, and
so they suffered far more than they would otherwise have done.

I sent away to Waatpi, asking the chief to come and see me,

238 GEORGE BROWN

but he sent a messenger to tell me that he could not come to see
me, as his foot was bad. I strongly suspected that this was
a falsehcxxi, but simply sent back a friendly message, together
with a small present. It was no use getting angry with him,
as he was evidently frightened that I was angry with him on
account of Jeremia's death. My action reassured him, and
he came in the evening, bringing me a small pig as a present.

On Friday, February 15, we started for New Britain to
examine the volcano, and also to assure ourselves of the safety
of the teachers and their families, This volcano is situate in
Blanche Bay, on the north-east coast of the island, near its
northern extremity. The bay forms part of Gazelle Peninsula.
I am strongly of opinion that many years ago the whole of
Blanche Bay was itself an active volcano, and I think the
soundings which have been recently taken by one of H.I.G.M.
ships of war will probably confirm this opinion. The land on
all sides is of pumice formation. My opinion is that the
present entrance to Blanche Bay has been formed during
some terrible eruption, which burst up the land there, and
admitted the sea into the crater, and that this now forms
the bay itself. Our company consisted of Messrs. Wood,
Turner, McGrath, Howard, three teachers, Lelei, and myself
When we left, the whole of St. George's Channel, the large
and deep strait which separates New Britain and New Ireland,
was full of floating pumice ; no salt water was visible, and
the deep-sea channel looked just like a great sandy desert.
The strong currents, however, between Duke of York and the
mainland of New Britain kept the fields of pumice there in
constant motion, and so we thought it was practicable to get
across. We did not, however, take the steamer, but decided
to go in the whale-boat As we got close in to the New Britain
coast near Nodup, we found that there was a large field of
pumice between us and the beach, extending for several
miles along the coast, and having an average breadth of about
half a mile. We saw the boat of a trader living there a little

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 239

ahead of us, and as he sailed right into the pumice, and with

sails and oars prepared to pass through it, we followed his

example, presuming from his local knowledge he knew that

it was practicable to do so. We soon found, however, that

it was not possible to force a boat through the mass, and so

we determined to regain the open water, which, after long,

hard pulling, we managed to accomplish, much to our satisfaction.

The trader tried to follow our example, but he had got too

far in ; and though he was not a hundred yards from the

open sea, and had a good crew, they could not get back to

the water, but had to remain prisoners until a change in the

current moved the pumice away the next day. Had the whole

field broken from the coast in a large mass they would probably

have been carried out to sea. We pulled up the coast some

distance, to a point where the field was very narrow, and then

giving good way we managed to force a passage near enough

to the beach to enable the natives, who waded out a short

distance, to catch a long rope which we threw to them ; and

so they were able to drag the boat to the shore. The field

was at least three feet thick, and was composed of large and

small pumice, some of the pieces being as large as a barrel.

Looking at it jfrom the shore, it was difficult to believe that

it was not a patch of dry reef, and it was only after attempting

to walk on it that we were assured of the fact that there

was deep blue sea underneath. After some refreshment we

decided to cross the promontory that evening, and so started

away at once. We went in at the back of the Mother, and

reached Malakun, at the head of Blanche Bay, about an

hour after sunset, and slept at our teacher's house, which

was also occupied by Mr. W. Hicks, of Matupit, who had

fled there for safety.

The following are extracts from my diary : " Saturday,
February 16, started away at daylight in Mr. Hicks's boat.
We pulled close past the Beehive Rocks, which we saw were
gradually sinking, as the houses on them, which were some
feet above high-water mark on my previous visit, were now

240

GEORGE BROWN

quite flooded at high water. A little farther down the bay
I saw that the small rocks oflf Karavia on the south-west side
of the bay, noticed in the Blandu survey, were raised up
several feet above their former height, and several other rock
patches (not before visible) near them were also recently up-
heaved. About a quarter of a mile nearer the beach we saw
the large island which has been thrown up by the submarine
volcano. The north-west side seemed cool and easy of access,
8o we pulled towards it, and as soon as we got into shallow
water 1 jumped out, and waded through the hot water and
pumice to the beach, so that, with the exception of W. Hicks,
the half-caste trader, I was the first white man to land on this
island of a week's growth. Mr. Hicks and I walked from the
beach where we landed over masses ol pumice and hard igneous
rocks, fissured in every direction with deep cracks, through
many of which smoke and steam still issued very violently.
The land sloped gradually from the north-west beach to the
summit of the island, where it terminated almost perpendicularly
at a large cup-like cavity, the sides of which were about seventy
feet in height, at the summit of the island, gradually sloping
down in a circular direction towards the south-east, until they
nearly united on the opposite side, a passage of about ten yards
alone remaining, through which the boiling water of the crater
flowed out into the bay. The cavity thus formed was full of
water, apparently very deep indeed, boiling most furiously, and
emitting vast clouds of sulphurous steam. It was a strange
sight to see this island, bearing witness as it did to the great
convulsions of nature still going on around us. A few weeks
before 1 had passed over the spot in my boat, and all was
quiet and still, with the deep waters of the bay covering
the place where now such powerful agents were at work.
We kept on our way round the lip of the crater until we
came to the ten-yard channel I have before mentioned ; and
as this was full of a deep current of boiling water rushing
through it to the bay, it effectually stopped our further
progress. The land at this point was oniy a few feet above

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 241

the sea level, and bore the marks of very recent eruptions
of boiling water discharged from the crater having flowed
over it. We were not without apprehensions that we might
be caught in some such eruption ourselves, and so thought
it best to quit such a dangerous locality as soon as possible,
more especially as the sulphurous steam was beginning to
affect us. The water on the beach all round the island was
quite hot, and in many places was boiling furiously. For
some distance from the island the water was of a muddy,
yellow colour, which contrasted in a marked manner with
the clear blue sea-water a little farther out in the bay."

This eruption, as I have stated, was in the beginning of
1878, and for several years afterwards I used to read accounts
of large fields of pumice found in different parts of the South
Seas, some of them many hundreds of miles away from the
scene of the eruption. I was much amused also in reading a
contribution from the very facetious London correspondent of
one of the largest dailies in Australia. This gentleman stated
that he had been accustomed to subscribe regularly to a library
of fiction, but he had lately met with such interesting matter in
a scientific periodical called Nature that he had decided for
the future to give up the fiction library and take in Nature
instead. As one reason for this, he said that it had been
gravely asserted in this scientific journal that during a recent
eruption in Blanche Bay, in New Britain, the fish came up
ready cooked, and this had decided him to transfer his sub-
scription and patronage to Nature, and to give up fiction.
This he no doubt considered to be a very facetious way of
expressing his incredulity ; but, as will be seen, it was only
another illustration of the trite saying that fact is often stranger
than fiction. What are the facts ?

The width of Blanche Bay from the point at Raluana to
Point Praed is five miles at least. From a line drawn between
these points to the head of Simpson's Harbour I estimate the
distance to be about eight miles ; and the width of the bay from
the volcano to Karavia, near which the island came up, at about

242

GEORGE BROWN

six miles. This is all deep blue sea-water. When the officers
of H.M.S. Blanche surveyed this bay, they got no bottom at
seventeen fathoms up the centre of it for nearly the entire
length, and when I passed over the same track in H.M.S.
BcagU we got no bottom at thirty fathoms, until we got very
near the head of Simpson's Harbour. It will give some idea of
the heat evolved by the volcano when I state that fog: some time
after it broke out all the water in this bay was at scalding heat,
and when we were at Malakuna it would have been utterly
impossible even for that funny correspondent to wade more
than a few inches into the water, though the tide had then been
ebbing and flowing into it for several days. All the fish in
this immense sheet of water were killed, and so far from it being
an exaggeration to say that they were all cooked, it is easily
proved that they were very much over-cooked. For example,
it is well known that the tortoise-shell of commerce is procured
from the hawksbill turtle, and the plan which the natives adopt
for getting off the shell is by means of heat, which accounts for
the charred spots which often detract so much from the value
of the shell. There were hundreds of these turtles destroyed
by the boiling water, and yet only twenty-seven pounds of
tortoise-shell were collected from the whole of them, because
the turtles had been so much boiled that in many instances
nearly all the shell had dropped off. Water that was hot
enough to melt the shell from the back of a hawksbiil turtle
was surely hot enough to cook any ordinary fish !

I have described this new submarine volcano first, because
we went to it first, and because it preceded the eruption from
the old crater on the mainland by a few hours. The island,
when it was first upheaved, was about three miles in circum-
ference, and in some places about a mile wide. The crater on
the mainland is on the opposite or north side of the bay,
situate between the Mother and the South Daughter. The old
people told us that there was a small eruption, not nearly so
large as the present one, some thirty or forty years before, but
since then the volcano had been very quiet indeed. I had

I
I

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 243

ascended the crater twice during the previous two years, and
found it to be, from all outward appearances, nearly extinct
as there was only a very little tight smoke ascending from
the bottom, not even visible on the top of it. On one of those
visits I took some photographs of the place ; but on this visit
I found that the side of the old crater on which my camera
then stood had quite disappeared, and that the place was
now the centre of the new crater. The eruption was preceded
by frequent earthquakes, which were very heavy indeed on
New Britain, but which we, on Duke of York Island, only
twenty miles distant, scarcely felt. On the night of Sunday,
February 3, the earthquakes were very violent indeed, and
on Monday morning there were two tidal waves, which
destroyed !a large part of the shore-line. Soon after this
clouds of steam were observed rising from the bay, in a direct
line from the old crater on the mainland and the place from
which the island I have described was upheaved. As the
submarine volcano increased in strength, those steam clouds
in the deep water ceased, and the old crater burst out with
terrific power. The inhabitants of the bay and of the island
of Matupit all fled to the high lands until the first fury of
the eruption abated. When we saw the volcano it presented
a grand and awful sight ; billow after billow of thick black
smoke and flame were shot out with great force, and formed
a very high column, which towered up far above the surrounding
mountains. " The Mother " is two thousand feet high, and we
were all agreed that the volume of flame and smoke was at
least as high above the summit as the height of the mountain
itself For a few minutes there would be a comparative lull,
then a deep rumbling sound, after which there was a loud
roar, followed or accompanied by violent expulsions of ashes
and pumice, and cloud after cloud of thick smoke following
each other in quick succession, the lower one forcing itself
into the one which preceded it, whilst the upper clouds were
overlapping, curling and wreathing round the lower ones,
as if in very madness of frolic they were revelling in their

244

GEORGE BROWN

escape into the pure atmosphere. As we approached thel
crater in our boat we could see that the explosion had taken
place on the side of the crater nearest the bay, and that a new
cone was being rapidly formed, having for its centre what!
was formerly the south side of the old crater. As we ap-j
proached it from the windward side, we were able to getj
quite close to it, and it was a most awe-inspiring sight Therej
was no discharge of lava, but large blocks of pumice and rockj
were continually being shot out, whilst the roaring could bej
heard distinctly at Duke of York Group, nearly twenty miles]
away. Not a green leaf was to be seen, though all was covered]
with grass and trees a fortnight before. The dead and
blackened trees, with almost every branch beaten off by thej
stones, stood like spectres on the hillsides and gave a most]
mournful aspect to the scene, whilst the cocoanut trees oni
Matupit and places far enough away to escape destruction,'
were so weighted by the dust and ashes that their leaves.
hung straight down by the stems, giving them rather a comical
appearance — in fact we all agreed that they were very much'
like a lot of closed gigantic Chinese umbrellas. As we could seej
no safe practicable way of ascending the crater we decided tc
return. We could hear the dull thud of the stones as they]
fell, and we decided that we were close enough to them, and
that it would not be pleasant to get shut in by the large fields^
of pumice floating about the bay, an event which might easil]
take place by a change of wind or tide. We returned tc
Malakuna in the afternoon.

As we passed down the bay on our way home we found'j
that another point of land had been formed near Escape BayJ
which was about twenty feet in height and extended seawards]
about 150 yards from the old shore-line. The whole ofj
the vegetation from Point Praed to the volcano w«is entirelyJ
destroyed, the prevailing wind having carried the pumice iai
that direction. This part of the coast, which was formerly
so beautiful that it attracted the notice of all, was a scene
of utter desolation, the banana plantations and cocoanuta^l

PRESENT APPEARANCE OF CRATER, WHICH WAS FULL OF BOILING WATER

IN 1878, AND FOR SOME YEARS AFTERWARDS.

ThcM two views (how TCgetatlon and large casiuriaa lfce« on the Island.

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 245

on which the natives depended for food, not showing a sign
of life. We heard that one woman who was unable to get
away was killed by the first showers of stones, but I could
not find out whether this was true or not. We reached Nodup,
fortunately, without meeting any large field of pumice.

It will be interesting to note here the changes which have
taken place. I have visited this island several times since 1878,
my last visit being in September 1905, on which occasion I
took some interesting photographs of it. I found that it had
materially decreased in width, the shore-line having been in
many places washed away. It had also decreased somewhat
in height, owing to the pumice and ashes sinking and becoming
compacted by their weight and the action of the weather.
I found also that the channel which formerly separated the
island from some older rocks at the west end had been filled
up. The island is now a long narrow one, about two and a half
miles in circumference, its widest part being at the south end,
where the crater of boiling water was. The cliffs, composed of
pumice and ashes, are almost perpendicular both on the seaward
side and also on the side of the crater, which is now open to the
sea on the southern end. It is, in fact, a miniature reproduction
of the way in which, as I think, the whole of Blanche Bay was
formed. When I last visited the place the whole island was
covered with bush, and some of the Casuarina trees were thirty
or forty feet in height. This is a good example of the rapid
disintegration of the pumice under the effect of sun, wind, and
rain, and of the rapid growth of vegetation in the tropics. I
think that my experiences with regard to the event are
unique. I had often sailed by boat over the spot where the
island now is. I landed on it when it was still hissing hot,
and when all the sea around it was at scalding heat. I have
lived long enough to see it covered with vegetation, and have
taken photographs showing the large groves of trees on it,
many of which are at least thirty or forty feet in height I
do not know how long the water remained hot in the crater,
but it was still very hot two years after the eruption, for wc

246

GEORGE BROWN

used to take our boats and vessels and anchor them in the
current which flowed from it, in order to kill the lereda

On the last day of February we began our quarterly
meeting, which occupied two days. There was not much to
occupy us in the first part, but when we came to the examina-
tion of the female class-leaders we had three very unpleasant
cases to determine. I only mention these, however, as
illustrations of the difficulties with which I had to contend
in those early days. It appeared that some wine and spirits
from a steamer then in the group had been given to three of
the women at different times, and it was said that they were
somewhat intoxicated afterwards. After a long and careful
examination it was decided to suspend them from office as
leaders. I do not think that the wine was given to these
women from any bad motive ; it was simply an act which the
givers thought to be an expression of their good-nature. It
caused me, however, very great pain and annoyance, and
when our meeting was finished I was quite weary and de-
pressed.

The next months, March and April, were the most anxious
months I ever spent in my life. Almost every one of the few
white men that were there were very ill with fever, and most
of the teachers and their families also suffered in the same
way. I sometimes wonder as I read the records in my diary
how I was able to bear the strain. I often felt a strong,
inclination to lie down myself, as I also had the symptoms
of fever upon me ; but I really had not time to do so while
so much depended upon what I was able to do. I believe
the strong influence of the mind over the body prevented me
from giving way, and was in some respects much more beneficial
than any medicine I could have taken.

On Sunday, March 3, I preached at Urakukuru. In the
evening, as I was giving the Sacrament, one of Mr. B.'s traders
came with a letter for me, telling me that Camilla, his wife,
was very ill, and in a short time he was followed by another

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 247

one, who came to ask me to go at once, as the woman was
thought to be dying. I started immediately, but found her
dead when I got there. In the morning she had taken
breakfast with the traders, and was to all appearance well,
but in the evening she was dead. It was a very sudden and
distressing affair, and I could not determine what she died of,
unless it was from heart disease. Her husband asked me if
I thought she was poisoned by the natives. I told him dis-
tinctly, no ; as I also did when he asked me if I thought
she had poisoned herself.

On Tuesday, March 5, I celebrated the first marriage in
the group. I have often written of Peni Luvu, who was one
of the pioneer band. He was unmarried when he arrived, and
as he was most of the time in or about Duke of York Island
I often took him with me on my journeys. We became very
much attached to each other, and I felt very glad indeed when 1
found that he and Lavinia, the widow of Aminiasi, had agreed
to marry. I little thought, however, that in a few weeks
afterwards the dear good fellow would fall under the toma-
hawks of the natives.

The next few weeks were very anxious times indeed for us,
as all the whites and large numbers of the teachers and natives
were ill. It was most depressing to hear the accounts of their
sufferings, and the strain of visiting and attending to their
wants was very great indeed. Most of the traders had gathered
together at Mr. Blohm's station, on Makada, and I often had
to go over there to visit them. The north-west winds were
very strong at the time, and this caused a heavy swell in the
harbour, which involved me several times in considerable danger.
I was often called to go over during the night ; and as I could
not get the boat ready on such short notice, I often ventured
in a native canoe. This was safe enough when the sea was
calm, but on several occasions I got caught in mid-channel
in a very heavy sea. I will give one day's record, as an
illustration of the state of affairs at that time.

On Monday, March 18, Mr. Y. sent over, asking me to go

248

GEORGE BROWN

at once and see Mr. filohm. When I arrived at the station
I found every one of thera ill. Mr. Blohm was lying on
the floor delirious, and in a state of high fever. He was
unfortunately talking in his delirium to his dead wife. This
made it almost impossible for me to get any of my teachers
to remain with him, as they were quite convinced that the
spirit of the dead woman was present, and so they were afraid
to remain in the house. Old Jack was lying on a large box
in the house, almost as bad as Mr. Blohm, and laughing and
ridiculing the remarks made by the latter in his delirium. Mr.
Y. was lying very ill on a mat in the corner of the house.
Going outside I found Captain R. and the German carpenter
also very dangerously ill, so that not one of the five white
men was able to make tea or prepare any food whatever.
This, of course, we were able to attend to, and made them as
comfortable as possible whilst I was there. On my way across
1 saw a trader's boat coming in from New Britain with the
flag half-mast high, and I at once concluded that either his
wife or child was dead. It proved to be his wife, and I buried
her at Molct the same evening. I find in my diary only the
words : " I got home tired and faint both in body and spirit " ;
but I remember well that these words expressed but very
imperfectly the depression of body and mind which I then
felt.

The next few days contained the same records of sickness
and our efforts to relieve the sufferers. Mr. Powell, Mr. Wood,
Mr. Turner, and Mr. Petherick rendered all the help they
could, and some of them often relieved us of the strain of sitting
up night after night to attend upon the sufferers. On March 26
I wrote : " Still more sickness. It is really enough to frighten
us all. Every one seems to be ill, or just recovering. Misieli,
wife, and child, are ill, the latter very seriously so ; Sositeni and
Sicni, Malaki, several of the Fijians, Mr. Blohm, old Jack, Young,
Rodd, and the carpenter, and many of the natives. The season
seems to be a most unhealthy one." Many of the patients
were not able to be left alone either by day or night The night

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 249

previous to this I had sat up all night with Mr. Blohm, and

in the morning I decided that it would be better to bring

him over to our own home, as I could not stand the strain

of visiting the island so often. Some of the white men in port

went over in our boat and we found him very ill. They put

him on a litter to carry him to the boat. His last act before

doing this was to insist on having his big German pipe put

into his mouth, and he held it there clenched between his teeth

when he was brought on to our verandah. He was quite

unconscious, his eyes were fixed and staring wildly, and none

of us ever expected that he would get well again. It would

be tedious to give the details of these weary days of pain

and depression ; but there is an extract which I think it right

to transcribe. On March 30 I wrote : " Blohm seems a little

better to-day. Poor Salelesi (Misieli's boy) died last night,

and to-day we laid him beside his sister. Poor Misieli and

Paseta have now lost both the children they brought with them

from Samoa. We all feel very sorry indeed for them. Juliasi

and Samuela are both ill again." I remember this good

couple coming after me from Samoa, in good health and

strength, and full of love for the people amongst whom they

laboured. Paseta was one of the first to get the fever, but she

never lost her cheerful courage, and in an hour after the attack

she would be as lively and cheerful as possible. It was a

great blow to her and to her husband when the little girl they

had brought with them from Samoa was taken away, and again

when the bright, active boy who often kept us full of laughter

by his antics was also taken. Then I remember that some

months afterwards Misieli had to leave the body of his dear

wife alongside the children who had gone before, and to return

to Samoa a solitary man, to continue there his work for God

amongst his own countrymen. His father was one of the

Rev. Peter Turner's first converts, and was for many years one

of our most devoted and successful catechists. The story of

lives like these is not known upon earth, but is certainly

recorded in the archives of heaven.

250

GEORGE BROWN

THE MURDER OF OUR NATIVE MINISTER, REV. SAILASA
NAUCUKIDI, AND THREE TEACHERS

This painful incident made a great stir at the time, and
at the first my conduct in connection therewith evoked some
criticism from a few whose opinions were entitled to respect,
though I had no reason to be dissatisfied with the opinions
expressed by the great majority of my brethren and the
general public. After the lapse of thirty years it is possible
to review that chapter in my missionary life with a judgment
tempered by the softening influences of age, and by the know-
ledge which has come with the years which have passed away
since the event took place ; and I am thankful to be able to
say that, much as i deplore, as I then also did, the necessity
for the action we took, I have never questioned the wisdom of
the course we pursued. I can, I think, also fairly claim that
the history of the mission since those days has fully justified
me in the claim that I then made, that the action was absolutely
forced upon us by the conduct of the natives ; that it was only
an act of self-defence, and for the preservation of the lives of
innocent men, women, and children ; and that, as it quite
accorded with the sense of justice and right in the minds of
the people themselves, none of the serious events which were
predicted would result, but that the after effects, so far from
being disastrous, would, on the contrary, be beneficial both to
the people and to our mission amongst them. Natives are
not fools ; they well knew the cruel wrong which they had
committed, and were also fully aware of the dangerous position
in which we were placed in consequence of their action ; and,
whatever it may have appeared to others, it was to them the
only possible way in which we could arrest the imminent danger
to which we were exposed. They were surprised at the
speediness of our action and the rapidity of our movements;
but they never blamed us at the time, and they have never
done so since.

That some action would be taken was quite in accordance

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 251

with all their own ideas of justice and right — and natives have
these ideas, whatever some people may think to the contrary ;
but they never expected that the consequences would follow
the cause so quickly. Their ideas were that we, who were the
aggrieved party, would retreat to Duke of York Island, that
the rest of the teachers and the few whites would be at their
mercy, and that in the meantime they would have plenty of
time in which to prepare their deadly pit-traps, and also so to
set their spear-traps in every track through the long high grass
as to make it extremely dangerous for any one to approach
any of their villages. Some of us, however, knew these things
as well as they did ; and by the promptness of our action not
only were the lives of the women and children saved, but a
serious loss of life was averted which would certainly have been
incurred if any action had been taken at a later date. There
was no time for any combined resistance, and so only the actual
perpetrators of the massacre were dealt with. As we have
learned since, the numbers of those who suffered was very
greatly overestimated at the time. When the accounts of the
expedition were first published there were all kinds of stories
rom the natives, who wished to acquire a character for bravery,
as to the numbers who were killed ; but when the matter was
officially investigated, and the witnesses were examined on oath,
only one man — and he was a Duke of York native — could
testify that he had seen as many as ten bodies during the
whole time, from the beginning to the end of the expedition.

I wish, however, to preface this account with a statement
which I trust my readers will remember, namely, that soon
after the first of my letters was written I became fully conscious
of the fact that in my desire to avoid the suspicion of any
attempt on my part to shirk my full share of responsibility
for the part which I as an individual took in the affair, I
assumed far more responsibility than I ought to have done.
This was fully proved at the judicial investigation by Captain
Purves of H.M.S. Danes. The expedition would have been
carried out, whether I went or not ; but I held that if the

252

GEORGE BROWN

teachers went, as they were firmly resolved to do, it was my duty
to go with them ; and I venture still to think that, with ray
experience of native life and character, my presence was not
only a factor in the success of the expedition, but was also a
preventive against excesses which might have been committed
in the excitement of conflict. This at all events was the
opinion expressed by those who investigated the matter from
time to time.

When we held our quarterly meeting at the end of March,
Sailasa, the native minister, told me that he had been up inland
from Blanche Bay. and had been very kindly received by the
natives, and that they all wished him to go again. He said
that a large number of people lived a short distance inland,
on a fine level plain, and that they were accessible from both
sides of the large promontory between Blanche Bay and Port
Webber. He asked me for a few beads and other things to
give to the chiefs^ as a return present for the kindness shown
to them on their visit These I readily gave him, and I told
him also that I was going over soon to New Britain, and
would also go inland with them, or at some other place farther
up the coast'

I prepared for this journey, and on April 8 was all ready to
start next morning at daylight I was sitting in the study at
night, engaged in skinning a bird, when I became aware of one
of the natives on the verandah looking in at the window. 1
looked up and saw that it was an old fellow called Kail, one of
whose accomplishments was that of cutting up the bodies of
men or pigs before or after the operation of cooking them. No
man's features are more indelibly fixed in my mind than are
those of that old man as he looked in at the window, and whilst
he never stopped chewing his bcte!-nut said to me: " Have you
heard the story ? " To which I replied : " What story ? " " Oh,"
he said, " we have just heard that the New Britain natives
have murdered Saiiasa and some of the teachers." We had
heard hundreds of tales like that before, and had paid but little
attention to them ; but this jtime I felt a great sinking of heart

THE LATE SIR J. B. THURSTON AND WAWABALAVU. THE CHIEF WHO MUROEREI>
REV. THOMAS BAKER AND PARTY.

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 253

as soon as I heard it, and felt assured that there was some truth
in it, knowing as I did that Sailasa and some of the teachers
had planned a journey inland. I went and told my wife, and
decided not to start at daylight, as I originally intended to do,
but to wait for further particulars.

Next day, however, on April 9, Ratu Livai arrived from
Nodup, bringing full confirmation of the report we had heard.
He told us that Sailasa and three teachers had gone inland
from Ratavul, in response to the invitation they had received
on their first visit ; that he (Ratu Livai) and three others had
started from the Blanche Bay side of the peninsula, expecting
to meet Sailasa and party inland ; that after he and his party
had gone some distance their suspicions were aroused that some
serious accident had happened, and that they themselves were
in considerable danger. As they were eating some food in one
of the inland towns, Ratu Livai heard the people telling their
guide to advise the party to sleep that night in their village,
and not go farther inland. This decided them to return at
once, as it was very clear to them that the people with whom
they were staying meant to kill them at night. As they had
strong suspicions that the guide also was playing them false,
Ratu Livai placed him in front, and told him that if he led
them astray, or into any ambush, he himself would be the first
to suffer. By this means they regained the beach in safety,
and at once went over to Ratavul to make inquiries. There
they found full confirmation of the report which they had
heard, and Ratu Livai came over at once to inform me.

As soon as I heard his account I started at once for
Kabakada, and reached that place on the following day,
April II. We soon found our way to Sailasa's house, and I
well remember the sad scenes which I witnessed there. As
soon as the widows and children saw me they set up a piteous
South Sea Island death-wail, and began calling for their dead
husbands and fathers to come back again to them. I have
often thought that when David called out : •' Oh Absalom, my
son, my son, would Grod I had died for thee," he really believed

254

GEORGE BROWN

that the spirit of Absalom was present and heard his bitter cry.
I am, at all events, very sure that this belief is entertained by
all natives. Both widows and children were expostulating with
the deceased, and asking why they had left them. It was little
Use then trying to speak trite words of comfort, and I could
only sit a silent sharer of their sorrow. I well remember as I
sat upon the bed, resting my elbows on my knees, and stopping
my ears to the piteous cries about me, praying with great
earnestness to God that He would give me wisdom sufficient
for our great need. I well knew that amid this great excitement
some one must keep cool, and I prayed for strength to enable
me to do so. We soon heard the many horrible accounts of the
murder of the teachers ; and I could sec by the compressed lips
of the teachers who were with me, and their significant, sullen
silence, that their feelings were deeply moved. We were told
also that Talcli, the reputed cause of the murder, had actually
come from his own village on the previous night and proposed
to the chief of Kabakada to murder the widows and children
of the native minister and teachers, and to bum the house.
This story we knew to be true, as two of the teachers saw him
just outside of the fence. I soon found also that the Samoan
and Fijian teachers had consulted together ; that they were
planning an expedition inland that night, and were determined
to go without telling me, for fear I should prevent them doing
so. Mr. Turner and Mr. McGrath, who were with me, had
also agreed to go with them. Such an expedition, I felt assured,
would be a failure, and would probably cause further loss of life,
and so I begged the teachers to trust the matter with me. I
told them that our first duty was to save the women and
children ; that it was no use whatever attempting to recover the
bodies of their comrades, as they knew as well as I did that
they had long been disf>osed of- The next morning, as I
wished to gain all possible information, I sent a message to
Taleli, asking him to come down and see me, assuring him that
he would be perfectly safe in doing so. He very definitely
refused to come, and sent me some very significant messages.

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 255

One of them was to the effect that the messenger was to tell me
that he declined to come, but wished me to know that he had
not eaten all his yams with the bodies of the teachers who
were killed, but that he had reserved some of them to eat along
with me to " kitchen " them with, and that he meant to enjoy
that pleasure at no very distant date. The native word he
used can only be translated by the Scotch word "kitchen,"
meaning a relish.

Next morning I determined to remove all the women and
children, and gave orders to them to prepare to return with us
at once to Port Hunter. I then went up to see Bulilalai, a
noted chief of that part of the island. He was very fearful
indeed of any white man going near him, as he was accused of
causing the murder of Mr. Jamieson the previous year. I sent
word, however, that I would go with one only of the teachers,
but with no white man. I wished to secure his help and pro-
tection if possible, but, if I could not do this, at least to be
certain that he would not join in combination against us. We
went some distance inland, and after many precautions had
been taken by the natives, I was conducted to a small house in
the bush where the old chief was. I sat down by his side, told
him what I had come about, and reminded him that Peni (one
of the murdered teachers) was his own teacher, and at the time
of his murder was under his protection. The old man told me
at once that he loved Peni, that all his people were sorrowing
for him, and finished by telling me, very emphatically and with
appropriate gestures, that he fully intended to eat Taleli, the
chief who had killed his teacher. I told him that we could not
allow any cannibalism, as it was not our custom to eat men, and
that it was very wrong to do so. He looked at me in a way
which seemed at once to express surprise at our conduct and
pity for our folly with regard to this matter, but declared
himself quite ready to help us. I slept at Mr. Southwell's that
evening.

I made many inquiries as to the reasons which prompted
the massacre, and the way in which it was carried out, but it

256

GEORGE BROWN

was very difficult to get trustworthy information. The only
reason we could find was that Taleii was jealous of the
teachers going inland, as he feared that by their means articles
of trade would be carried to the people in the inland villages,
who had hitherto been able to obtain them only from him.
Then he knew that the teachers were unarmed, and that any
attack upon them would not only be comparatively safe, but
would alio be profitable to the assailants, as they would be
able to sell portions of the dead bodies to surrounding villages
for native money. The general information was that the
teachers were suddenly attacked as they were going through
the long grass ; that Timoti was the first one to be killed b)'
a spear thrust, and that the rest were killed without much
apptarent resistance. Peni Luvu, however, was a very powerful
young man, and from all that we heard he defended himself
with great courage, and ultimately made his escape from his
assailants, and succeeded in making his way down to Taleli's
village, where he thought himself to be perfectly safe, as we all
at that time regarded that chief as being very friendly towards
us. The poor fellow was exhausted with his struggle, and
asked for some water to drink. A cocoanut was brought to
him, and we were told that as his head was thrown back in the
act of drinking, Taleii nearly severed his head with one cut of
the large knives used by the natives for cutting and clearing
the scrub.

On Saturday, April 13, we returned to Port Hunter, and
had to decide what course to pursue. I called a meeting of the
few white residents who were on Duke of York, together with
the teachers and some of the chiefs, and found that they were
unanimous in the opinion that the only possible way to pre*
vent a further sacrifice of life was to make a demonstration
against the people in those villages where the massacre had
been committed. It was felt by all that the lives of the teachers
and their families who were still on New Britain were in
imminent danger, as well as those of the traders. There was
naturally great excitement amongst the natives at the success

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 257

which they had achieved, and it was absolutely certain that
none of the remaining fannilies would escape. Mr. Powell, I
find, in his book, Wanderings in a Wild Country, expresses this
opinion very decidedl}', and states that it was quite apparent
to all that " if we wished to save our lives we must either fight,
and fight well, or withdraw altogether from these islands at
once. As this latter plan was impossible, the former was the
only alternative, and Mr. Brown at last was obliged unwillingly
to admit that it must be so."

The reasons, however, which principally influenced my
decision were : ( I ) The fact that the teachers themselves were
actually preparing to go, and that they all said that life was no
longer safe in any of the towns, nor was the mission work
practicable, if these murderers were not punished. (2) The few
whites here also assured me that unless something was done,
their lives were no longer safe. They volunteered their help,
and urged immediate action. Taleli, who is said to have
ordered the massacre, had previously attempted the life of Mr.
Hicks, a trader at Matupit ; the cook of the barque folian
Casar had also a very narrow escape from him ; and very
recently he attempted to capture the Fransiska schooner.
Since the murder also he had sent some very insulting messages
to the whites. (3) My own convictions also were that these
murders would soon be followed by others, and that prompt
action was necessary in order to protect the lives of those
who remained, and to prevent any recurrence of such a crime.
(4) On carefully considering the matter, I felt a!so that any
such single-handed attack on our part as that proposed by
the teachers and others would probably fail, or, if partially
successful, would be ill-advised, as it would place us few
foreigners in seeming opposition to all the natives. The matter,
I felt, concerned the people as well as ourselves. The people
of the towns in which the teachers had been stationed regarded
the action of Taleli and his party in murdering their teachers as
an insult and an injury to them, and were determined to resent
It, and would certainly have done so in their own native fashion.

«7

258

GEORGE BROWN

They were quite prepared, however, to co-operate with us ; and
I determined that as some action was unavoidable, even if not
desirable, it was the best plan to enlist the sympathies and
help of all the well-disposed natives on our side, rather than to
array them against us ; and to let the punishment of the
murderers come from the natives as much as from us. The
murder of Sailasa and the teachers, it must be always
remembered, was not in any way connected with their position
as Christian teachers, nor was it caused by any feelings of
enmity against the lotu. They were killed simply because they
were foreigners, and the natives who killed them did so for no
other reason than their desire to eat them, and to get the little
property they had with them.

To say that I felt deeply the responsibility of my position is
to say but little. During those dreadful months, in which nearly
every one around us was struck down with fever, I had felt
much our solitary position ; but it never came upon me with
such force as it did at this time. I knew in this instance that I
should be held principally accountable for the action we were
about to take, and that if we failed, or if any more of the
teachers were killed, on me would rest the blame. I knew also
that I had no precedent to guide me, and that many good
people, whose opinions I respected, and whose esteem I valued,
would probably condemn our action as judged from their
standpoint. These, and many other points, were carefully
considered ; but the conviction was forced upon me that the
opinions of the foreign residents and of the teachers were
correct, and that we must take some action for the protection
of our own lives and the lives of the innocent men, women, and
children who were dependent upon us.

After arriving at this decision, we determined to carry it
out as speedily and as effectually as possible, always bearing
in mind that we must so act that our conduct would bear
judicial investigation at any future time. We determined, with
the help of the natives, to start from both sides of the pro-
montory whilst the event was quite recent, and before the

:IS I

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 259

natives expected us to take any action. They thought only of
punishment when a big ship came ; but we determined to start
as soon as we could get ready, and, leaving all the coast towns
in ignorance, to push on at once to the very towns where the
teachers were murdered, and where the people never dreamt
that a white man or a foreigner would dare to go again.

In pursuance of this plan, we left Port Hunter for New
Britain on Tuesday, April 16, just eight days after hearing
of the murders. Our company consisted of Mr. Powell, of
the ketch Star of t/ie East, Mr. Turner, Mr. McGrath, the
teachers, and myself. A boat from Messrs. Goddefroy's station
at Port Wesley, with native crew, in charge of J. Knowles, a
half-caste trader there, also accompanied us, and Mr. Blohm
promised to follow us next day, which he did. At Nodup
we met with Mr. Hicks, from Matupit, and held a consultation
with Tobula and Tolituru, our chiefs there. We decided to
divide our party, and agreed that Mr. Hicks should take the
leadership of one party, consisting of Messrs. Powell, Turner,
McGrath, Knowles, ten Fijian and four Samoan teachers,
with the natives from Nodup, Matupit, and Malakuna, whilst
Mr. Blohm, Mr. Young, and myself, with one Samoan teacher,
should go round to the north coast and take charge of the
natives there. We all left at noon for our respective stations.

The Blanche Bay party slept at Matupit that night, and
we who constituted the north-coast party slept at the house
of Mr. Southwell, at Kabakada. I instructed the teachers to
remain in the boats all night, to keep watch, and to take special
care that the boats were kept afloat. In the morning before
daylight Aminio came to me and said : " You had better take
care, sir, for we arc sure that there is treachery on the part
of the natives who promised to assist us. As we were on
watch last night, we saw pigs and large quantities of diwara
(native money) being carried past, and we feel certain that
Taleli has been paying Bulilalai not to help us." I was very
glad indeed to receive this warning, and as subsequent events
showed, it probably saved us from serious loss. We started by

26o

GEORGE BROWN

daylight for Taleli's village, as had been previously arranged.
On our way we saw that all the men from Bulilalai's villages
were coming along the open beach, instead of going into the
bush by an inland path as they had agreed to do, and this
conduct increased our suspicions of them. We had therefore
to act very cautiously indeed, as we were only three white
men (one of them very unwell) and one Samoan amongst
four or five hundred natives, our native crews being of very
little use if we were hard pressed. We pulled very close in
to the shore and found that our supposed allies did not attempt
to do any damage to Taleli's house, or commence to look after
him in any way. We went as close as possible to the beach
and told them to go inland as agreed upon, but the chiefs
called out to us to go on shore. We were quite willing to
do this as soon as they commenced any operations, but we
were very unwilling to trust ourselves with them before they
had clearly made known which side they intended to take.
I had a conversation with the chiefs, but we all had some
serious doubts as to their intentions. They kept their faces
towards us, but we had a very decided impression that whilst
doing this they were speaking also to some people behind
them. One of our party was ill with fever, and was resting
his head on the gunwale of the boat. Whilst doing so he
called out : " I can see a lot of people behind the fence of
Taleli's house." Subsequent events proved that our suspicions
were well founded, and that up to that point Taleli's party
were actually lying there, whilst our supposed allies were
doing their best to get us on shore. If they had succeeded
in this there is not the slightest doubt that they would all
have joined forces against us. We found when we landed
later in the day that our allies had put dracaina leaves on
Taleli's house, thus making it sacred and secure from damage
by any of their people. We also found the grass all trampled
down behind the fence, showing that a large body of natives
had been there.

Whilst we were talking to the natives on the beach, a number

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 261

of canoes came from some adjoining villages and encircled
us from seaward, so that our position was this. We were
lying off the beach in two boats, Mr. Blohm and Mr. Young
in one, and a teacher and myself in the other. On the beach
were about five hundred natives professedly friendly, but whose
actions were most suspicious, refusing to go into the bush,
or to do any damage which might commit them with the
other party. Behind us were some forty canoes, containing
from four to eight men each, which were gradually approaching
us from the sea. We pulled out and asked them what they
meant, and they told us they had come to market. I replied
that there would be no market that day, and strongly advised
them to go home quietly. This they promised to do, but
almost as soon as we went back they returned to their
former position, and were gradually drawing nearer to us.
Mr. Blohm and the natives repeatedly pointed out the
<iangerous position we were in, especially with regard to
those canoes, and at last we determined to drive them a^vay,
which we did ; and in about half an hour there was not
a canoe to be seen. Only two ,men were wounded, and as
they were found out afterwards to belong to a town which
was ostensibly friendly, I paid the wounded men so liberally
that I think every man in the canoe was sorry that he had
not been wounded also !

This action of ours in clearing off the canoes in so short
a time had a very convincing effect upon our native friends
on the beach, and they decided to join us, in accordance with
their promise. They at once went into the bush and fought
Taleli's people. As soon as we returned from chasing the
canoes we landed at Taleli's house, and our crews burnt it,
and destroyed his canoe, after which we lay at our anchors
close in-shore all day, waiting for the Blanche Bay party
to come down, as we could see by the smoke on the hills
that they were successful, and, as we then thought, were working
down towards us. I had given a rocket to the party, asking
them to fire it if they decided to sleep inland, and we waited

262

GEORGE BROWN

for this until long after sunset We slept that night at Nodup,
and came back again the next day, Friday, and stayed until
Saturday, when I received a note from Mr. Powell telling
me that they had returned to Matupit, and were waiting
for us there. We started at once, and reached the island
during the night, and were glad indeed to find them ail safe and
well after an arduous but successful expedition. We ourselves
had not done much on the north coast except, perhaps, impress
the natives with the fact that, few in number as we were, we
maintained our position with an absolute disregard of the
large numbers who were opposed to us, Wc had only two
whale-boats, and yet we were able to clear the bay of hostile
canoes in a very short space of time, and we lay quietly at
our anchors within a few yards of the beach for three days,
though there were many hundreds of natives close to it who
were ready and anxious to injure us. 1 am sure that the
sight of such a small number of us remaining in those two
boats for several days, apparently quite unconcerned at the
number of those opposed to us, produced a great impression
upon the minds of the people, for they often mentioned the
matter to me in after years.

On reaching Matupit I got from Mr. Powell an account of
their expedition. They started from Matupit soon after mid-
night on Wednesday, landed on the mainland, travelled by the
moonlight, and before dawn were well up the first range. Here
they rested and waited for the dawn. All the natives had very
strict orders about cannibalism, or any mutilating of the dead,
and also against injuring any women or children. The natives
themselves have very little compassion on women, and state
that they are worse cannibals than the men, and are always
the most active in urging on a fight, and in mutilating the dead
afterwards. This I fully believe from all that I have seen and
heard. There were no large towns there, but every family lived
in its own little enclosure. The houses were not large, and in
most instances were merely huts which could be put up again
in a day or two. All that were seen were burnt, and some

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 263

of the murderers were killed. The sea side of the range was
very steep, and in many places the party had actually to climb.
On the top was a fine level plateau of open country, dotted
over with clumps of trees and cocoanut palms. On the march
one of the dangers to be guarded against was that of falling
into the pit-traps which are generally employed in native
warfare. These pits are very cleverly made, generally on one
side, or at some sharp angle of the track. Spear points,
or pieces of pointed bamboo, are placed at the bottom of the
pit, and the top is very carefully concealed by grass and leaves
placed so naturally that it is almost impossible to see that
they do not form part of the original covering. The guides,
and those in the van, all carried long pointed sticks to probe
for these pits ; but ,the natives never imagined that we would
venture inland so soon, and so no pits had been prepared.
Another method of warfare used by these people is to conceal
two spears in the high grass on each side of the track. One
end of each spear is set firmly in the ground, whilst the sharp
points are placed at a proper angle towards the direction from
which the assailants are expected. These spears are then
connected by a cord, which is stretched across the track. If
any one should press against this line hurriedly, as in running
or fast walking, the forward pressure draws the two spear
points into his body. None of these traps, however, were found.
With the exception of a determined attack made at noon,
whilst our people were at dinner, there was no attempt at
united resistance. This attack was made principally by means
of sling and stone, though these were accompanied by some
rifle shots from weapons which had been purchased by them
from the traders. The sling, however, was the most effective
weapon, and some of the stones came with very great force
about the heads of our people, and caused a general rush for
cover on the part of the native contingent. After repelling
this attack nothing more was done except in the preparation
of a camp, in which they all slept in the bush that night —
another proof to the bushmen that they were now dealing with

264

GEORGE BROWN

a difTerent people to their own coast people, who would never
dream of sleeping inland all night. Next nraorning (Friday)
they were early astir, and after burning some other huts
farther inland, and more to the eastward, they returned to the
beach, and burnt the town of Karavia, as the natives there were
clearly proved to have been implicated in the affair. They
then returned to Matupit, where we found them, as I have
before mentioned.

On Sunday, 21st (next day), I sent out and tried to secure
the bones of the murdered teachers, and succeeded in getting
some belonging to Sailasa and Ttmote. We consulted as to
what course we ought to pursue. Many of us thought that
quite enough had been done ; but it was shown clearly that
though the natives who had suffered were all implicated in
the murder, yet the town where the men were actually killed
had as yet escaped, and it was not thought well to let that
go free. We decided to visit the place on Tuesday. On
Monday two towns sent in some diwara, as a peace-offering
for having joined in the cannibalism. I was glad to receive
it, and sent back a kindly message. On Tuesday we started
at dawn, and landed between Karavia and Diwaon soon after
sunrise. Our party were soon on their way up the hill ; Mr.
Blohm, Mr. Hicks, Mr. Young, and myself, taking charge of
the boats and the shore party. We watched our people
climbing up the steep sides of the coast range, and afterwards
could follow their progress by the smoke of the huts which
they fired. We soon saw that they were in the very town
where our comrades had been killed. Whilst this party was
inland I received a message from Karavia, the coast town burnt
on Friday, asking me to go up, as they wished to make friends
with me again. We went at once, and I received a present
of betel nuts, cocoanuts, bananas, etc., and a roll of about fifty
fathoms of diwara (shell money). I sat down amongst them,
and told them how sorry we were that this had happened.
I assured them that we never wished to fight, reminded them
how often they had stolen from us, and how they had previously

rm^s^.

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 265

attempted to kill the teachers, but that we had never resented
their conduct or tried to injure them. I told them that we
fought now not to avenge the teachers, but because our own
lives were in danger. They acknowledged the truth of all this,
and said : " Tis true, 'tis all true ; we were the first, we were
the first ; we began it, not you." I accepted their offering, gave
a few little presents in return, and told them that we would
make a formal peace according to their own customs in a
few days. I then took two pieces of cord, and made a
number of knots on each cord. One of them I gave to the
chief, and retained the other myself. We were each sup-
posed to cut off one knot each night, and when all were
finished I was to return to complete the peace arrangements.
This pleased them very much, as it was evidently regarded
as a proof of our sincerity. In the bush town several burnt
and charred bones, and some little things belonging to the
teachers, were recovered, thus proving that no mistake had
been made.

In the evening we went to Dlwaon, where the body of
Sailasa had been eaten ; and as they had not sent in any diwara
as an acknowledgment of their offence in participating in the
massacre, as they had been warned to do, most of the huts
were destroyed. A woman was brought down by Aminio, and
she told us they had eaten one whole body, that of Sailasa,
the native minister. We reached Matupit again at 8 p.m.,
and next day (Wednesday) we returned home. Not a single
one of our party was wounded, though Selalete, a Samoan
teacher, was once in very great danger.

Peace making was effected very rapidly. The next week
after our return I visited the north coast, and on Wednesday,
May 8, 1 went in the whale-boat to Kininig^nan, on New Britain,
stayed there two or three days, and on Saturday went to
Kaluana and Barawon, the two towns which sent in shell money
as payment for their cannibalism. We did not stay at these
villages, but left word that we would call on our return. We
then went on to Diwaon, and landed at one end d the town ;

266

GEORGE BROWN

but there were no natives to be seen. 1 sent up a friendly
chief to them, but they were all so frightened of treachery
that they were afraid to come down. I was determined
to sec them and convince them of our desire to be friends,
and so we sat for several hours on the beach waiting for
them, and sending messages urging them to come. Our
crew, and others, urged me to go ; but I refused, and still
waited on, until at last they came. Two of the chiefs brought
diwara as payment, and an expression of friendship. I spoke
to them very kindly, explained our position fully, and made
them well pleased and .satisfied of our goodwill towards them
by accepting the diwara, and giving them a good present in
return.

We then went on to Karavia, where we found a great
number of people waiting for us, as I had sent several times
telling them that we were coming to make friends with them
again. Amongst the crowd was one of the chiefs from the
town where Sailasa and the teachers were killed. He had
sent down diwara, and asked to be forgiven ; so they sent up
to him to come down and meet me. Poor fellow, I am sure
he never spent such an anxious hour in his life as he did that
day. He was surrounded by Karavia natives, ostensibly his
friends, but he evidently felt that they were no protection to
him. I sat down just in front of him, as I wished to gain his
confidence, and to make him feel that we really forgave the past.
At first he evidently wished that I would choose a seat a little
farther away from him, but afterwards he got more at ease,
though he still watched every movement. I accepted his
present, and those of the other chiefs, and then, in accordance
with their custom, I made them a return present as a token
of good-will. I then rose and spoke to them all, reviewing our
conduct from the commencement of the Mission, and reminding
them of our many acts of kindness to them. I assured them
that we fully forgave them, and that the past should be all
forgotten, and that we would be good friends again. They
assented to all I said^ expressed sorrow for what was done, and

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 267

begged to have a teacher stationed with them, to which I
agreed.

This reconciliation was made in strict accordance with all
their own native customs. We sat down opposite to each other,
the Karavia people on one side of the open space in the village
and our party on the other. They then brought in a lot of
cooked food, and we also did the same, having taken it for
that purpose. A man from the town then mixed all the food
together in one large heap, from which, at the proper time,
we were all to eat together. This was done to show that there
was no poison or any magic spell in the food brought by either
party. Then the Karavia people brought diwara as " payment "
for the wrong which they had committed. I accepted this, but
soon returned most of it to the people. We all then rose up and
walked round the pile of food, each party finally sitting down
in the opposite place to that in which they were first sitting.
After this we all ate together from the one heap of food, and as
they had now made all possible atonement I made them a sub-
stantial present, far exceeding in value that of the diwara which
they had given as " payment " ; and so we became friends again,
and a peace was made which has never since been broken.
I then tried to get from the bush chief the particulars of the
murders, but soon found out that I could not depend on what
he said, and that it was not wise to press my inquiries just
then, as it would only arouse his fears. We were told that
Taleli had sent messengers after the teachers, telling the bush-
men to kill them. The natives from the town where they
slept followed them and continued calling, as they went along
the road, to other natives, who were working on their planta-
tions, to join them, until they got a large number collected,
when they were able to attack them and overpower them at
once. The teachers did not appear to have had any sus-
picions, and were taken quite unawares. On our way home
we called at Diwaon and Barawon, and made peace with
them also.

As to the results of the expedition, it is with some satisfac-

268

IRGE BROWN

tion that after the lapse of thirty years from the date of the
occurrence I can reproduce — with one sh'ght correction only
as to the 'probable number of those who were killed, which
we found to be grossly exaggerated — the statement which 1
made at the time as to the justice of our action and as to its
probable results. In my letter to the General Secretary of our
Missionary Society, written just after the occurrence, I said :
" The effect, I am certain, has been most beneficial, and in
this conviction all the foreign residents here concur. I am
certain that our Mission here stands better with the natives
than it did before, and that wc are in a better position to do
them good. They respect us more than they did, and as they
all acknowledge the justice of our cause they bear us no ill-will.
Human life is safe here now for many years to come. I can
locate teachers in the very towns which suffered the most, and
they will be well received, not because they fear us, but because
they feel it to be the best thing for them. We have had several
proofs since, both from New Ireland and other places, that
other lives would have been sacrificed if no action had been
taken by us. On looking back now, some weeks afterwards,
when our feelings arc not excited as they were when we first
heard of the sad affair, and considering quietly and calmly the
past events, I honestly believe that the plan I adopted was
the best, and was, in fact, the only one which could have saved
the Mission and many of our lives. It is true that some lives
have been lost ; but the present and future good of thousands
will far outbalance that. This has been no unprovoked shoot-
ing of natives, nor was it anything like an attempt to force a
way into their country by force of arms. They murdered the
teachers whilst friendly with them, and whilst knowing them
to be men of peace. Ours was an honourably conducted war
in conjunction with the natives themselves, one which was forced
upon us to save our own lives, and to prevent a recurrence of
any such barbarities. I yield to none in love for the natives
and in earnest desire to do them good ; but to have allowed
such an act to pass unpunished would have been not only

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 269

suicidal cm our part, but also an act of unkindness to them.
There is not a native in the group who does not acknow-
ledge that we did right, and that no other resource was left
us. We made peace with ail but Taleli in a few days, and,
as I said before, we stand in a better position than we did
before."

Messrs. Powell, Wood, and Turner of the ketch Star of the
East', Messrs. Blohm and Young, from Messrs. Hernsheim's
establishment ; and Messrs. Hicks, Pethrick, and Knowles, frqm
Messrs. Goddefro/s, and Mr. McGrath, all rendered valuable
service as volunteers ; and Messrs. Brunow, Southwell, and
Woodward entertained us very hospitably, and gave us every
assistance whilst we were on the north coast Soon after our
return I received the following letter of thanks :

••Port Hunter. Duke of York Island^
"May 2%, 1878.

"To THE Rev. George Brown, —

"We, the undersigned traders and foreign residents
residing in New Britain and Duke of York Group, desire to
express our thanks and approval of your energetic and prompt
action with regard to the cold-blooded and unprovoked murder
of the native Fijian minister and teachers by the natives of the
interior of New Britain.

"We desire at the same time to express our sincere con-
viction, that but for your prompt action in the matter the
lives of neither traders nor missionaries would have been safe
in any part of these groups, and it was acting under this con-
viction we gladly rendered you every assistance in our power.

" We would also state that we have had ample proof since
of the good effect produced by your actions, not only on the
murderers themselves and the participators in the horrible
cannibalism resulting therefrom, but also in the generally
improved conduct of the surrounding tribes.

"We therefore again express our conviction that your action
is fiilly justified not only by the sad cause which gave rise to

27©

GEORGE BROWN

it, but also by the beneficial results which are so apparent
to us all.

" We beg to remain, dear Sir,

" Your obedient servants,
{Signeti)

"Wilfred Powell, Master, ketch Star of tht East.
Granville A. Wood, Mate, ketch Star of the East.
George Turner, Collector.

William Hicks, Trader for Messrs. J. C. Goddefroy':
H. Blohm, Trader for Messrs. Hernsheim & Co.
Charles E. Young)

James McGrath J

Residents."

The publication of this intelligence created a good deal
of excitement. The Board of Missions passed some very
sympathetic resolutions, and the daily Press in the several
colonies was, on the whole, very fair in its criticisms. My
dear friend, Rev. B. Chapman, wrote at length in reply to
some of these. We did not receive these comments until more
than six months after the event. I had to reply almost
immediately, and I naturally wrote under deep feeling; whilst
the conscious assurance that we had done right made me
reject almost unkindly the excuses which were made for my
action, and also caused me again to take far more than
my proper share of responsibility. As an instance of my
perverse conduct I may mention that the Rev. B. Chapman
had very properly pointed out, on the authority of Mr. McGrath,
the difficulties which made the removal of the teachers and
their families almost impossible ; but in this letter I declined
to accept this conclusion, and .said that I could probably
have removed all the teachers on New Britain before any
more lives had been lost. Some months afterwards, with fuller
information, I knew that Mr. Chapman, writing after ex-
amining Mr. McGrath and others, was right, and that I was
wrong ; and ever>- white man in New Britain told me so. I
make no excuse for this perversity except this, that I naturally

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 271

felt a little sore at some of the criticisms, and preferred to
have the whole matter of our action discussed in its worst
possible aspect. I am older now, and I hope I am a wiser
man than I was at that time.

My feelings at the time will be well understood from the
following extracts from a letter written by me to the Rev.
B. Chapman, General Secretary, on November 16, 1878 :

" The Dancing Wave arrived here on Wednesday last, the
13th instant; ihc John Wesley has not yet arrived. I boarded
the vessel when outside in the channel, and Mr. Robertson
gave me at once the small parcel which he had kindly brought
for us. I felt very sorry indeed that our actions here had
caused such trouble and anxiety to the Board, and to our
many friends, and I sympathised much with you in your
desire for information on details which I had not given. The
fact is, that when I wrote I was afraid of saying too much,
on one side, for fear of appearing to boast of what we had
done ; and, on the other hand, I was afraid of attempting
to palliate, or to meet objections half way, for fear of appearing
to be consciously guilty of having done something which we
knew to be wrong ; and so I judged it best just to tell the
tale plainly and truthfully without comment.

" I hope when you publish this you will not head it
' Mr. Brown's Defence,' or any other title like that. I do
not write now to defend myself or my actions. I simply
accept my position with all its responsibilities and con-
sequences, namely, as that of a missionary placed in very
difficult circumstances, without any precedent to guide him,
who has been compelled to do certain acts which he believed
(and still believes) to be right and proper as being the only
means for preserving life ; and who has thus been compelled
to grieve many dear and valued friends, and to imperil,
if not destroy, 'his reputation as a missionary,' but who has
been fully justified by every resident and every visitor here,
has been treated with very kind consideration by the Board,
and, on the whole, has not been unkindly or unfairly criticised

272

GEORGE BROWN

by the public Press, and who is content to leave the final
issue to time for the decision of his fellow-men, and to God for
His judgment.

" You will remember that in my first letter I stated that
all our actions were done in the expectation of a judidal
inquiry. This, however, was not what I feared. A lady
writer in The Weekly Advocate, September 28, has instinctively
and kindly touched upon my greatest difficulty and my sorest
temptation. (For my wife and myself I say, 'Thanks, kind
friend, though we know you not.') I had no doubts about
my duty or the necessity of action, none about what to do
or how to do it ; but I well remember when in poor Sailasa's
house at Kabakada — with the widows and children crying
and wailing in their sorrow, as I sat bowed down beside them,
with my head grasped tightly between my hands, and my
ears stopped, compelling myself to be calm enough to consider
the whole affair, and praying to God to help me to decide
aright, that this fear of grieving old and dear friends was
my greatest temptation ; and now I confess, with some shame,
that it almost made me coward enough to shirk doing that
which, however painful to myself, was, I truly believed, my
duty, and the only means of saving the lives of both teachers
and traders. Of course I do not expect that all will think
yet that I did right ; my own conscience is clear enough ;
but I do not, and cannot, blame those who think differently.
As I said before, I can only giv-e the reasons which influenced
our actions. I cannot make people feel their force as we did.
They must be placed in the same circumstances.

i • • • •

" I am quite certain that we did not exaggerate the danger.
The trader's house at Raluana was fired, and he was compelled
to flee, but the teachers remained. The same happened at
Kininigunan, and the teacher remained. We continued to visit
regularly at Diwaon, the coast town which suffered, though
we all knew that they tried to kill four of the teachers when
I was away in Sydney. They were buying yams on the beach,

J
I

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 373

and the natives got them all separated from each other, on the
pretence of taking them to different heaps of yaxaSf and it was
by what some would call the merest accident that the plot
did not succeed. We knew this, but we went there stilL
I do not pretend to be constitutionally a brave man, but I
could ea»ly give plenty of instances to show that neither I
nor our teachers were very easily scared into a fight I have
not done so in many instances, even in my printed journals,
because I do not like sensational affairs, and because I thought
that some m^ht think they were printed for the purpose. . . . We
have always been as careful as possible in avoiding collision
with the natives ; and this has not been very easy work at
all times. I will give you one instance, which can easily be
substantiated by at least two of the /oAan Casat^s passengers,
now in Sydney. Some few months ago, as I told you, we
visited Spadous Bay, for the purpose of verifying, or otherwise,
our ideas of the place. You will remember that when we first
went there, when I was down here alone, we did not land,
but this time we did so, and I think were probably the first
white men who had been on shore there. We did not see
the people who were there on my first visit ; and our impression
was that they had been driven away or killed, as we saw
only the deserted houses and some burnt human bones
However, there were many natives on the beach, all armed.
We landed and traded with them, and did our best to make
them feel friendly. I was trading for some yams, I think,
when one man snatched at a piece of red cloth in my breast-
pocket An involuntary exclamation escaped me, the man
sprang back, and in an instant forty or fifty spears were lifted
and pointed within a few feet of our bodies. Had there been
the slightest sign of fear, of flight, or of an intention to fight
nothing could have saved us. I pulled out the piece of cloth,
held it up, and pointed to the man who had attempted to steal
it The natives understood, and scolded the man ; the spears
were dropped, and all went on well again. After that we went
all over the village ; but it was the narrowest escape we have

274

GEORGE BROWN

ever had, so far as I know. Until the murder of the teachers,
in all our many journeys by land and sea amongst these people,
I have never known a weapon even to be pointed in anger by
any of us.

" I come now to your own letter in Tiu Weekly Advocate^
October 5. For all your kind words and consideration, you
have, as you know, my heartfelt thanks ; but I must, I fear,
again weaken my own case with many, by saying that though
the difficulties you have pointed out as hindering my with-
drawing all our teachers to Duke of York did undoubtedly
exist, yet 1 do not think they were insuperable. I did take
away the teacher and his wife who were left behind at
Kabakada, and all the widows and children, arriving there,
\s I told you, only just in time to save them. 1 could also,
most probably, have removed all the teachers on New Britain
before any more lives were lost. I did not attempt this,
because I felt certain that such a step involved not only
the abandonment of our Mission, but also, in all probability,
the death of the few traders and one white lady at Kabakada.
Their lives were threatened by Taleli, and they themselves felt
that they were in imminent danger. The natives were quite
demoralised after the massacre ; all their angry passions were
excited ; the other tribes were all being tampered with, and
life was no longer safe. In simple self-defence we acted as
we did, rather than leave our fellow-countrymen to bear alone
the fury of the storm of which we unfortunately were in some
measure the cause. In this I firmly believe we did right.
The whites are alive, our stations are occupied, and the teachers
are respected and loved. The houses of the murdered teachers
have been well looked after. Their gardens are untouched, and
the people are anxiously waiting for their teachers to come by
the John WesUy. Since I wrote you last by H.M.S. Sandfly,
I have succeeded in getting Taleli to meet me. It was a long
job, but he came at last, and we interchanged presents and
became friends.

"On the Press criticisms given in Tlu Weekly Advocate,

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE ^75

October 13, 1 need say but little in addition to the explanations
already giyen, as, with the remarks made by the editor, they
meet all the objections of most of the papers. I have no fault
with any of them save one, and that only for 'distortion of
facts.' Our conduct was open to criticism, and I fully
expected that it would be criticised. I was not sanguine or
simple enough to think that we would please all, or that our
situation could be fully understood by those far away from us,
and looking at the question from quite another standpoint from
that in which we were placed. I may, however, state that
I at once wrote to Sir Arthur Gordon, Her Majest/s High
Commissioner of Polynesia, informing him of the affair. We
only heard of the appointment being made long after we were
friends ^ain with the people. We shall be very thankful
indeed for the protection and help which this appointment
will afford; but in a case of immediate danger like this
action had to be taken, and the consequence incurred at
once:

*'The article in The Age has been so fully replied to by
one who has himself faced danger and endured trials in the
mission field, that I have but little to say about it as regards
myself, except to thank Mr. Watsford sincerely for his kindness
in saying what he could for an absent brother missionary. I
must, however, say a few words for the men with whom I am
proud to labour here, as they cannot speak for themselves,
except by their self-sacrificing lives and conduct. The writer
speaks of us as ' bearers of glad tidings, who take care to have
their muskets with them/ It will perhaps enable that gentle-
man and others to understand our position better than he does
when I tell him that, though we landed here more than three
years j^o, when there was not a white man in the group,
have lived amongst them ever since, have opened up the whole
of this part of the group to trade and to the influences of
Christianity and civilisation — though our teachers have re-
mained, in spite of insult and injuiy, in villages when the
houses of the traders were burnt, and from wluch th^ were

276

GEORGE BROWN

compelled to flee ; yet up to the day when I took the widows
and children from Kabakada our whole stock of arms consisted
of only a few (three) fowling pieces never used but for shooting
pigeons or for collecting birds, a small revolver, which a friend,
who was anxious about me, sent us in Samoa, but which has
never been fired or even pointed at a man, and an old Tower
musket, left here by Captain M., which, I am sure, neither the
editor nor any other sensible man would like to fire off. But
for this even we had no caps, nor, as far as I know, had we
a bullet amongst us, unless some of our lads had got a few
for pig-shooting. We had not a single rifte nor an ounce of
lead in our possession. Would cither Mohammed or the
writer of the article in question have come equipped in the
same way, have gone where we have gone, and done what
we have done? The writer also says: 'With such a motive
(/>., not to desire to avenge the murder, but rather to consult
the safety of the settlement in general, and to prevent future
outrages) he felt himself justified in joining an expedition,' etc.
Does this gentleman really condemn me for this? Does he
think that in becoming missionaries we cease to be men, and,
above all, cease to feel and act as Christian Englishmen ? Docs
he think that it would have been more becoming for us to sneak
away like cowards to our own shelter, and leave a few white
men and one white lady to the tender mercies of a lot of
cannibals who had just tasted blood, and were thirsting for
more? There were men there, and one white lady, living in the
same village with Sailasa, whose lives were threatened by
Taleli, and who were most certainly in imminent danger from
the passions excited by the murder of our teachers, and yet we,
who were in some measure the hapless cause of their danger,
ought to have gathered up our goods and fled to our own
island, protected ourselves there, and left thent to their fate !
Had we done this I am quite certain that the editor of Tlu
Age would not have commended our conduct.

" I should like also to say a few words on one part of the
very fair criticism in The Australasian, The writer says ;

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 377

* If tnissionary enterprise in such an island as this leads to
wan of vengeance, which may readily develop into wars of
extermination, the question may be raised whether it may not
be better to withdraw the Mission from savs^es who show so
little appreciation of its benefits.' I reply that the great danger
oi any such wars arising (the present case notwithstanding) is
not from missionary enterprise. Our Duke of York people
here complain, as other natives have done, that they are
forgetting how to fight, and that their 3roung men are growing
up not knowing how to throw a spear or sling a stone. The
danger is from quite another source, and the missionary, by his
simple presence alone, exercises a restraining influence which
prevents many outrs^es and averts the evil consequences of
others. Any one who has been much in the company of old South
Sea men, when their tongues are loosed, will have heard enough
to make him wish that there was a missionary on every island
in Polynesia. We have been here only three years, but I only
assert a simple £aict when I say that the natives evetywhttt
Tt!gaxd us as their best friends.

" Neither our teachers nor I have any fears of any more
disturbances on this account, either now or at any future time.
Both the coast towns are very anxious for the teachers to go
there. The house at Karavia is built, and would have been
occupied long ago but for the death of the teacher. The fact is,
that we had public opinion here, both native and European,
entirely with us. There is not a single native in the group who
does not think that we did right They all say that other
murders would very soon have followed if we had acted
otherwise. Taleli is the only man I do not yet fully trust"

I wrote that letter under strong feflling ; but during the many
years which have passed since that time, I have never found any
reason to alter the opinions and judgment which I then
expressed.

During the time which elapsed between the writii^ of my
letter of June 36, giving the first aooount of tiie murders and

278

GEORGE BROWN

the action which we had taken, and the one I have just quoted
above, we were visited by Captain De Hoghton, of H.M.S.
Beagle, who arrived in the group on August 8 ; and also by
Captain C. G. Home, of H.M.S Sandfly, who arrived about the
same time. During the six days we were over on New Britain,
Captain De Hoghton examined nearly the whole of the bay,
especially Karavia, one of the coast towns which suffered most
for their participation in the murders. I provided him with a
competent interpreter, and he made most particular inquiries
of the people. He told them that a British ship-of-war visited
their islands for the protection of the natives themselves as
much as for the protection of the whites, and that he was also
anxious to find out why the teachers were killed. To this they
replied that the murders did not originate with them ; that
Talelj and others had sent word to the bush towns asking for
the teachers to be killed ; and that they themselves were not
directly concerned in the murders, though they acknowledged
that some of their people had helped to cat the bodies. In
answer to a question as to whether they still wished for a teacher,
they said Ihey were very anxious indeed that Joui (a teacher)
should come and live with them as soon as possible.

Whilst we were lying in Blanche Bay the Sandfly called in
on her way to the extreme end of New Ireland. Captain Home
very kindly asked mc to accompany him on this voyage, and
I very gladly accepted his kind invitation, not only on account
of my health, but also becau.se it gave me a good opportunity
for acquiring some knowledge of those parts. Captain Home
visited the north coast, and interviewed the people amongst
whom Sailasa, our native minister and the other teachers, had
lived. He also conversed a good deal with the white residents
on the subject of the massacre, and I had hi.s full permi.ssion to
inform the Mission Board that in his opinion we acted perfectly
right in the action we took, and that it had been very beneficial
to the teachers and traders, and the people themselves.

A few months after this we were visited by H.I. M.S. Ariadne.
Her commander, Captain von Werner, and the Imperial German

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 279

Consul for Samoa, Tonga, etc., Th. Weber, Esq., who was on
board the vessel, made very full and particular inquiries, both
from the natives and the foreign residents, quite unknown
to me, and formed their opinion absolutely independently of
any information supplied by me. The commander was very
kind indeed to us, and was very considerate also to the natives
in the various cases of house-burning, etc., on which he had to
adjudicate. A nominal fine and reproof were the only punish-
ments inflicted, with a warning that any further offence would
be severely punished. Captain von Werner did all he could to
strengthen our influence with the people. He brought the
splendid band from the vessel up to the mission house, to the
great enjoyment of ourselves and natives. He also arranged
a sham fight, which very much impressed the people with the
power of the weapons used by the white men. We had all our
people seated in front of the mission house when the supposed
attacking party were landed on the beach, and as the skirmishers
gradually approached the house, and the firing in the dense
bush became very rapid, it required all my efforts to assure the
people that no harm was intended. At one time, when the
troops had united and charged the mission house with fixed
bayonets and wild cheering, I certainly expected that they would
all break away and run for their lives. However, they much
enjoyed the exhibition, though they were very frightened at the
time. Nothing, however, was said to me about the massacre
and our action until I received the following letters :

[COPY]

"Makada, Duke of York, on Board H.I.M.S. 'Ariadne.'

" Decembtr 14, 1878.

"My dear Sir,

" Enclosed I beg to return to you Captain von Werner's
letter to you and the copy of his report to the Imperial
Admiralty, together with the English translation, which I
made at your request.

" I will not fail to state again on this occasion that I fully
coincide with the views expressed in these documents by

28o

GEORGE BROWN

Captain von Werner, and I feel that great thanks are due to
you for what you have done for all.

" I hope sincerely that sentimentality and false humanity
will not succeed in troubling you seriously, and I shall be
very glad if I should at any time be able to be of any service
to you in this matter.

" With kindest regards and sincerest wishes for your welfare,
I beg to remainj my dear sir, yours very truly,

(St^Titd) " Th. Weber,

" Imptriiil German Consul for Samoa, Tomjpt, etc.
" Rev. Geo. Brown, etc., present."

[translation]

" Harbour of Makada,

" Dtiimbtr 14, 1878.

" Reverend Sir,

" In consequence of the murder of some persons be-
longing to your Mission, you have in April this year undertaken
an expedition against the murderers, leading to a sanguinary
encounter.

" Although this matter does apparently not concern other
than English interests, still I have been informed here on the
spot to the effect that this expedition, undertaken under your
wise guidance, was not an act of revenge only, but principally
a command of self-help, because otherwise a general rising of
the natives would have taken place, which could only have
ended with the murder of all foreigners living here.

" I have also been informed to the effect that the issue of
this expedition became such a favourable one only because
you, reverend sir, by taking its guidance upon you, thereby
obtained at the same time the power to check the aroused
passions and to prevent an excess of bloodshed, whereby other-
wise the final result of this expedition might have become again
a doubtful one.

"This favourable issue, which has also materially benefited
German interests, has thus caused me to inform my Govern-
ment of the sentiments of gratitude which your noble and

I
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SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 281

courageom action haa created in die hearts as well of all
Germans living here as also those foreigners who are in German
employ.

" At the same time I cmiit not also to express personally, in
my capacity as a representative of His Majesty the German
Emperor, my kindest and most cordial thanks to you for what
you have done from humanity for my German brethren.

" I have the honour to remain, with the expression of highest
consideration, reverend sir, yours obediently and gratefully,

{Signed) "VON WERNER,
" Obtain ofCorvetU and Commandamt,

"To THE Reverend Mr. Brown."

[translation]

*' DoKB OF YoKK Island,

" Dtcentbtr I2, 1878.

"I have the honour to report to the Imperial Admiralty
most obediently as follows :

" As you will, no doubt, have been made aware of ere this,
the English missionary, Mr. Brown, with the assistance of
Fijian and Samoan mission teachers who are under his orders,
and also of foreigners living in these parts, undertook an ex-
pedition in April this year against the natives of New Britain
for the defence of life and property of all foreigners living
here, in consequence, whereof, about one hundred natives * lost
their lives. This brave deed has been very harshly criticised
in many quarters in Australia, but especially by the Govern-
ment of Fiji, to which jurisdiction Mr. Brown belongs, and it
has been hinted to me in Levuka by competent parties that
Mr. Brown is to be put on his trial for manslaughter, and
that he would be punished at least with five years' imprison-
ment, as the privil^e of defending his life in such a manner '
could not be allowed to a missionary. The Chief Justice of
the colony of Fiji told me himself that he would leave Levuka
at the beginning of December in the English corvette Nymph,
to proceed to Duke of York, and conduct the inquiry on the spot

• See jMge 313.

282

GEORGE BROWN

" These contradictory opinions made it difficult to arrive at
a correct view of the situation from a distance, and I was
agreeably surprised to find the information which I received
here from Germans and German trading agents to be of such
a nature that the sympathy which I had already felt before
for this brave man could only be strengthened thereby. All in-
formation which I received agrees upon this — that no foreigner
living ashore would now be alive, and that all foreign property
would be destroyed, but for the action of Mr. Brown, and that
consequently the greatest thanks are due to this man, who left
his wife and children behind under the protection of doubtful
savages, in order to jeopardise his life for the lives of all
foreigners living here and for their property.

" This unanimous acknowledgment of this brave deed, by
which next of all something like order and security have been
brought about in the state of affairs here, causes me to submit
this matter to the wise consideration of the Imperial Admiralty,
as a warm commendation from the Imperial Government is
due to Mr. Brown according to my estimation, because, although
Mr. Brown jeopardised his life as well for all, without distinction
of nationality, stilt practically he has done so for German
interests principally, as, so far, only Germany has got com-
mercial interests here, even if many of the trading agents
in German employ are English subjects. Perhaps the Imperial
Government may feel all the more inclined towards such a well-
deserved commendation, since this heroic deed, committed with
the best and clearest conscience, is judged of so harshly by his
own country.

'* A letter of acknowledgment from the Imperial Govern-
ment to the Government of Great Britain would be perhaps the
best and most useful commendation for Mr. Brown ; for the
present I have myself, as a representative of the German
Government, addressed a letter of thanks to Mr. Brown.

{Signed) " VoN Werner,

Clip tain of Corvette.

••To THE Imperial Aomiraltv, Berlin."

(

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 393

In aooordanoe with this request, a letter was addressed to
the Marquis of Salisbury by Herr von Munster, the Gernum
Ambassador in London, from which the following is an
extract:

** From the concurrent communications of all the Germans
tesiding in the Island, as well as from the announcement to
the Imperial Government from the Commander of H.M.
corvette Ariadne^ it appears that but for the courageous act of
the English missionary all the foreigners living in that part
of the coast of New Britain would undoubtedly have been
exposed to very serious dangers of life and property.

" It is therefore the desire of the Imperial Government,
that the most cordial thanks should be expressed to your
Excellency on our part for Mr. Brown's estimable and
courageous conduct in protecting the interests of the Germans
in New Britain. Whilst, therefore, I have the honour of
discharging hereby the commission intrusted in me, I think I
may be allowed to express the hope that the acknowledg-
ment awarded to Mr. Brown by the Imperial Government
may, perhaps, in case of necessity, guard this spirited man, so
highly deserving in regard to the interests of all foreigners
in that group of islands, from the troubles into which he is
reported to have fallen with the Royal British Authorities,
in consequence of the expedition mentioned in the beginning.

** With the most distinguished consideration, I have, etc,

{Signed) " MuNSTER."

The visit of this splendid vessel, the Ariadne, and the kind-
ness we received from all on board, did much to cheer us in our
loneliness, and I think it also strengthened our position with
the natives. When the vessel left Makada Harbour, Captain
von Werner brought her quite close to the high cliffs on
which our house was built, as the water was very deep
almost up to the shore-line. It was quite a surprise to us
when we heard the band playing, and, of course, we were
soon out on the edge of the cliffs, looking down almost direct

384

GEORGE BROWN

upon her decks. The officers and crew were all mustered,
and it was a Hne sig^ht to see such a large vessel under steam
so close to our house. As they steamed away the crew
manned the rigging and lower yards, and gave us three
hearty cheers in wishing us good-bye. We were quite un-
prepared for such a compliment, but wc did the best we
could in reply, some of us expressing our feelings in the old
British way, and the natives by uttering the most piercing
yells and shouts that they could produce. It would be
simple affectation if I were not to say that we felt pleased
that our actions met with such approval as was expressed in
the letters of Captain von Werner and Mr. A. Weber, Imperial
German Consul, and in their conduct to us whilst they were
with us.

Before leaving this part of our history, I wilt give the
account of our relations with the man who played such a
prominent part in the affair of which I have been writing.
Taleli was a man who in many respects was far above the
people amongst whom he lived. Under different conditions he
would no doubt have been a leader amongst the people. As it
was, his natural force of character and intelligence caused him
to be feared, if not respected, throughout the whoJe of the
district in which he lived. It was a great pleasure to me
when I succeeded, some few months after the occurrence, in
again adding Taleli to the number of my friends, I had
made peace previously with all the rest of the people before
I succeeded in securing an interview with him, One morning,
however, in October, I think, I got him to come to me
at his own village, and after a long talk he consented to
accept the conditions which I proposed to him, namely, that
he should pay for the injuries he had committed, as all the
other chiefs had done. He brought the payment for which I
had stipulated, but he had evidently misunderstood my motive
in seeking to make peace with him, or he had calculated too
much on my simplicity and ignorance, for on counting the

I
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SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 285

shell money I found it to be considerably short of the specified
quantity. The stuff was, of course, of no value to me at all,
but it was important that I should maintain the position
which I had assumed. I therefore refused to accept the
diwara which he had brought, and returned it to him,
thus leaving the matter in statu quo. I think this action
gave Taleli an increased appreciation of my intelligence ; at
all events, after chewing his betel-nut, and evidently con-
sidering what was best to be done, he went away, and brought
back an additional quantity of diwara. I could see at a
glance that he had not yet brought sufficient, but I deemed it
wiser in this instance not to recount it, and to be satisfied
with what I had got, leaving to him the consolation that he
had at all events cheated me out of some of it. It is not
wise in these cases to press the matter too far. I then
returned him most of the money (diwara) which he had
brought, and gave him a very good present in return, so that I
really paid far more than he did ; but the prestige, which was
all I wanted, was on my side. We had a good talk, and I then
took up a stone and said to him : " Now, Taleli, suppose I
take this stone out into the blue ocean and drop it overboard,
what would become of it ? " He said it would go to the
bottom out of sight. " Well," I said, " this stone represents
our quarrel, and I fling it now into the ocean, and it is
gone out of sight and can never be seen again." He was
evidently very much impressed ; and ever after when I was
visiting his place, especially during the time when we were
building Mr. Danks's house at Kabakada, I went about his
village without the slightest fear. I remember once walking
with him when we came upon the ruins of his large canoe
which we had broken up. He looked down at me and smiled,
pointing to the broken planks, and then put his arm around
me in a most friendly way.

Perhaps I may be forgiven if I state here some of the
principles on which I have always acted in dealing with
natives, and which, in my opinion, have given me some of the

286

GEORGE BROWN

I
I

influence over them which many believe that I have. One
of these principles was never to break my word to a native,
even in small matters. If I told a native teacher I would
be at his village on any given date, I always managed to get
there, and the consequence was that I found all needful
preparations made both for myself and crew. I have known
some who would put off such a journey from some little
indisposition or other trivial cause, and go on a date when
they were not expected, and then were cross because no
proper preparations had been made for their reception. Once
the natives know that they can implicitly trust your word
they will honour that trust by giving you their confidence. The
other principles were, never to make foolish threats which
were never intended to be carried out ; and not to nag or
be perpetually fault-finding for little faults. A native chief
will often get into a furious rage with his people, but when
his anger has passed he resumes his friendly relationship with
them, and he loses no popularity whatever by the occurrence ;
but 1 am quite certain that no natives would either honour or
obey for any length of time a chief who was always finding
fault with them.

I had some very good proofs in Taleli's conduct towards me
that my character for always keeping my word and promise
was well known to the people. I had told him, for instance,
that when the John Wesley came in and called at Kabakada
he was to come on board, and I would give him a present ;
and this he agreed to do. However, when the vessel arrived
I found it utterly impossible for me to go over in her to
Kabakada, but I certainly did not forget my promise. I sent
a native on board the ship with special instructions to go at
once to Taleli and explain the reason why I had not come,
but inviting him on board, and to give him the present.
When the messenger went Taleli listened quietly, but on the
conclusion he said: "Is Mr. Brown on board?" "No; but ■
he has sent a present for you, and you can get it on board."
But he resolutely declined to go, saying: "If Mr. Brown

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 287

-were on board I would go, but I will not trust myself if he is
not there." I was very pleased at this mark of confidence,
especially as I knew that there was a big price offered by some
of the foreign residents for Taleli, either dead or alive. But I
think the most gratifying proof that he gave of his confidence
in my word was some time after this, when we were building
the house for Mr. Danks. It was just at the commencement of
that very severe illness which finally necessitated my temporary
removal from the Group. I was lying on the floor in one of the
partly finished rooms when Taleli came in. He sat down by
my side, and asked me what was the matter with me. I told
him, and said : " I am very ill indeed." After talking a while
he stretched himself out alongside of me with his musket,
without which he never travelled, between his legs and went
sound asleep, I must confess that I felt quite proud when I
saw him lying there. He of course knew well what a cruel
wrong he had done us, and he also knew that a large amount
of diwara was offered by some of the various foreign residents
for his capture, and yet he had such confidence in my word
that he could lie down and go to sleep, thus putting himself
absolutely in our power, because I had told him that we had
fully forgiven the past.

I took his likeness several times, and often look at it
now with deep interest. I really liked the man, though I
fear he was a big rascal ; but we got to be great friends, and
after I left the group I used to receive very kindly messages
from him. He was finally deported by the German Govern-
ment to New Guinea, and died there an exile from his own
land, and I, for one, felt very sorry indeed when I heard that
he had passed away.

On December 2, 1878, the Jolin Wesley arrived at Port
Hunter, and our hearts were gladdened to find the Rev. B. and
Mrs. Danks on board. The Rev. J. J. Watsford was also on
board as a passenger ; and for this I also felt very glad, as we
had long wished for a visit from one of our brethren who could

aSS

GEORGE BROWN

present an impartial report of the work done and of the general
conditions of the Mission. As soon as possible we all went
over to New Britain, and visited most of the stations there.
Whilst we were at one village the men, women, and children
came round us in great numbers, and some of the children
especially got hold of my hand and also of my dress, and were
evidently pleased at our visit. I said to our friends : " These
people do not seem very frightened, or appear to have any
ill-feeling against us." To which they replied : " No, indeed.
They seem quite at home with you." I then surprised them
by .saying that we were then in the town of Diwaon, which
we had destroyed for their participation in the murder, and for
their cannibalism in eating the body of Sailasa, not very far
from the place where we then stood.

It was on this visit also that I found, from a remark which
I accidentally overheard, that there had evidently been an
impression amongst some members of the Board and others
that I had been trying to cover too much ground, and so had
scattered the teachers over a large extent of coast, thus pre-
venting them from uniting together for mutual protection in
case of danger. It was, 1 was informed, a surprise to our
visitors to find that on the north coast, where Sailasa lived,
there were four teachers and another Fijian stationed on four
miles of the coast, and that in Blanche Bay the teachers were
all within a mile or two of each other. The knowledge that
this wrong impression existed grieved me a good deal at the
time, though I felt that I could scarcely blame those who
entertained that opinion, as so little was then known of the
geography of the district. It is true that I liked to go ahead ;
but I knew well that any steady progress could only be secured
by working from a strong and firmly set base of operations,
and it was in accordance with that principle that ail the teachers
were appointed. My own visits to outlying places and districts -
were only preparatory, to accustom the people to us and to
make ourselves known ; and there were few places within a
radius of many miles round Port Hunter which were not

FIJIAN CIRLS.

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 289

acquainted with the Hmry Rud or my whale-boat I noticed
in the first letter that my colleague Mr. -Danks wrote he said:
"I, in common with many others in the colonic, was under
the impression that the teachers were very much scattered, and
thus in times of danger were without assistance. This is a
wrong impression. The teachers are so placed that in four
hours they could all assemble in a good place for protecti(m»
and when the new arrivals are stationed one hour's walk will
take any one teacher to his neighbour."

On the first Sunday after the arrival of the John WesUy
Mr. Watsford baptized our little boy Wallis, who was the first
white child born in the Mission ; after which I had the great
honour and privilege of baptizing five young men from Duke
of York and two from New Ireland. They had been under
instruction almost from the commencement of the Mission, had
long conducted family prayer in their own houses, and had
often proved the sincerity of their convictions by the consistency
of their conduct It was a very thrilling service. The youi^
men all chose the names which were given to them in baptism ;
and as they were the first natives who were received into the
Church of Christ in New Britain, I place their names on record :

Penijimani (Benjamin) Lelei, of Molot

Paula (Paul) Kaplen, of Kinawanua.

Jiali (Charlie) Noa, of Kinawanua.

Inoki (Enoch) To Bagbag, of Kinawanua.

Loti (Lot) Alik, of Kinawanua.

Petero (Peter) Topilike, of Kalil, New Ireland.

Apisa (Abijah) Turane, of Kalil, New Ireland.
Every one of these seven men became local preachers ; five
of them were afterwards appointed as teachers and pastors to
other villages, one of whom (Inoki To Bagbag) is still in the
work. It is a great joy to me to be able to record that all the
rest witnessed a good confession, and were faithful unto death.

In the afternoon we held a service in Fijian, at which all
the newly received converts were present, and for the first time

ago

GEORGE BROWN

joined with us in the Sacrament of the Lord's Supper. It was
indeed a blessed service, and my heart was full of gratitude
and love to our Heavenly Father. I wrote in my diary at
night : " From this day dates the beginning of the Church in
this Mission. God grant that many more may be added to the
number." And now, after the lapse of more than thirty years,
we have abundant proof that God has heard and answered the
many prayers which were offered up on behalf of the people in
New Britain.

The /o/iH IVes/ey sai\c6 for Fiji on December 26, and we soon
ettlcd down to the hard work necessitated by the formation of
a new mission station at Kabakada. Our launch had been
gradually showing signs of the hard work which had been done ;
but our new colleague, Mr. Danks, was an expert engineer, and
he succeeded in effecting some very necessary repairs, and soon
had her in very fair working order. His services in taking this
work off my hands were very valuable, and we all felt very
grateful to him.

On January 2, 1879, just a week after the /o/in Wesley left us,
the carpenter and I started for Kabakada, leaving Mr. Danks
to follow in the steam launch, which he did on the 7th. We
were soon all hard at work on the new house. A few short
extracts from my diary will give only a vzty imperfect idea of
the work done during the next three months, as my readers
can have no correct idea of the distances which were travelled,
or of the exposure to sun and rain which many of these
journeys involved. The privations and anxieties of the past
months were beginning to tell upon me, and 1 see now that
if 1 had paid heed to the warnings which I received from the
ever-recurring attacks of illness, I might have been spared
much subsequent suffering:

"On January 8 I went to Urara, an island off Kabair, and
from there away to Matavat, where I stayed part of two days.
Called at Port Weber on my way up. On the 14th returned
to Port Hunter. On i6th I was away again in the boat to
Port Wesley (Meoko), to select land for teacher at Kerawara.

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 291

Mrs. Danks and Mrs. Brown went with me. On Sunday (19th)
I preached at Port Hunter in the morning, and at Waira
in the afternoon, going on to Port Wesley in the evening.
20th, opened two churches, one at Meoko, and the other at
Utuan. 22nd, left very early for Kabakada; stayed there
until February 16, superintending and helping at house during
Mr. Danks's absence at Port Hunter. During that time I
visited old Bulilalai, and at last got him to pay us a visit."

I give also the following extracts from my diary as they
were written at the time. They will, I think, give some idea
of the state of society at the time amongst whites, as well as
amongst natives, of the work which was done, and of some
of the difficulties we had with some of our native colleagues :
" He (Bulilalai) brought me a pig, and I hope now he feels
himself safe with us. I hear he has lots of property belong-
ing to Jamieson, who, there is little doubt, was murdered by
his orders.

" On February 7 I walked to Malakuna, and from there
took our boats and went on board the Halton Castle, Captain
Angel. She has called in here on her way to New Zealand.
No news, no newspapers. She left on February 8 for Well-
ington, I got very wet indeed both going and returning.
Whilst over at Matupit Mr. Blohm and I made many inquiries
about the disappearance of a man called Tom from the brig
Adolph. As far as we can find out, there was a quarrel
on board on Christmas Day, and Tom was wounded and
cut about the head by Captain L. with an iron belaying
pin. He was afterwards put on shore by the ship's boat.
At 7 p.m. he went to the carpenter's, and seemed quite quiet
and sensible. He asked for a place to sleep, but the carpenter
told him to go to Joni's first, and if he could not get a bed
there then he could sleep in his outhouse. From this there
are no certain accounts. One story is that he was sleeping
on the sand spit in front of the house when the boat returned
in the night, and that some of the crew murdered him by
orders. The only thing which is certain is that he was killed

292

GEORGE BROWN

ashore. A stone was put round hk neck, and he was thrown
into the harbour. His body was seen floating about the
harbour afterwards. The strange thing about the affair is
that neither of the white men here even mentioned the affair,
and when we spoke of it they at first pretended not to know
what had become of the man."

"On February 15 I went to Man Island, and had a very
bad attack of fever on the way."

" On March 3 I left again for New Britain in the new
boat."

" On Tuesday, March 4, I did a very foolish thing. I wished
to inspect the land selected by the teachers for Samuela at
Birara, and so I started in a canoe immediately after having
a cup of cocoa, expecting to be back for a late breakfast.
I was, however, quite out in my calculations, and found that the
place was very much farther away than I expected. We went
several miles in the canoe, then landed and started inland.
We had to go first through some few miles of lowland covered
with very dense bush, and full of fever, I think. I was not
nearly recovered from my recent illness, and felt a cold, clammy
feeling creeping all over me as we posted through the lowlands
as fast as we could. We walked about six miles, and then
came to the chiefs house. Here we got a few unripe bananas,
but I could not manage to eat them ; and as I failed in my _
endeavours to get either eggs or fowls on such a short notice, f
I had to go without my dinner. On the whole, I approved
of the site selected, and after sitting for some time and
having a short service we started for Kinintgunan again. On
the way back I called to see two of the traders, and found ^
one of them suffering very much from fever. He had put
up his house, a miserable shanty, on a piece of land bounded
on three sides by a swamp, about the very worst site on
the coast, and of course he paid the penalty. He had to
remove a few days after my visit, and one of his family died.
I fortunately got a cup of tea about 4 p.m., which staved off
a nasty headache, and then reached Peni's house again at

TWO FIJIAN LAJ3IES OF HIGH RANK.

I ,

i !

SECOND TERM OF RESIDENCE 193

sunset hxviog walked die last mile and a half over loose sand,
in which we sank up to our ankles almost every step. Having;
just recovered from a severe illness, and then going over
20 miles in a canoe and overland without any food from
sunrise to sunset, it is no wonder that I too had to pay the
penalty. However, I got off better than I deserved, and next
morning felt but little the worse.

" Next morning, March 5, 1 baptized the son of Samuela
and L<»aline (Penijimani), and then started for Raluana, wboe
I had to open a nice new chapel The teacher's house and
the chapel here have unfortunately been built on sacred
ground, i.e. ground on which no woman or any of the un-
initiated boys can go. After some trouble I got them to
remove this tabu by paying them for it ; and then we
prepared to have service. It took an hour, however, bef<x«
we could manage to persuade any of the women to venture
in. Not only had they never dared to go on the land
before, but it was quite a new thing for women and men
to assemble or sit tc^ether. We got a few in, however, at
last, one old lady being very conspicuous in a large white
shirt I had made a special appeal to this woman because
she was the wife of a chief, and I thought some other
women would follow if she set the example. The poor little
woman after consenting to come to the church no doubt
felt that she ought to wear some clothing, and as her
entire wardrobe at that time consisted of a string of
beads, or a piece of string without the beads, she
naturally went to the teacher and asked him to lend her
something. He had nothing available but a new white shirt,
which she gladly accepted. He was a very big man, and
the shirt, even if it could be considered as an appropriate
garment for a chiefs wife, was very much too large for a
woman of her size. The sleeves were so long that the culb
hung down far below the tips of her fingers, and when she
stood up to sing she presented such a ludicrous appearance,
and appeared to be so very uncomfortable^ that I could not help

294

GEORGE BROWN

wishing that she had left the shirt in the teacher's box, even
if she had to come to me as the others did, in their native
costume of sunshine. I excused her from standing when the
next hymn was sung, as the sight was rather too much for
me, though neither the natives nor the teachers saw anything
to smile at in her appearance.

" After service I went to Karavia, and found Samuela and
some of his family and Peni's wife sick with fever. There
they were, lying on the ground, though 1 had begged and en-
treated them to make raised bedsteads. Nay, I even threat-
ened at our last meeting to suspend and send back to Fiji
any teacher who did not do so ; but it seemed quite unavailing.
And, worse still, there was the quinine bottle untouched in
the teacher's box, though they well knew its value and how
to use it. It seems to be a bad trait in Fijian character that
they lose heart so soon when they are sick, and apparently
resign themselves, like fatalists, to whatever they fancy is to
be. Samuela's sickness had assumed the remittent character,
and he was evidently very weak. Fortunately I had stimulants
with me, and I gave him at once a glass of brandy and ten
grains of quinine, leaving with him a similar dose for the
morning, and ordering them to report to me the following
day. I heard here bad news about Ratu Livai being very
ill at Nodup, and so determined to get on there as soon as
possible. Called at Diwaon, and saw the site selected for
Samuela's house. The house was nearly finished, but, as usual
when the teachers have to be trusted to select the site, it was
a very poor one. There were plenty of bananas on the ground,
and that seems to have blinded them to the fact that the
drainage from the hills just behind must flow right through
it Got back to Raluana just after sunset thoroughly tired
out. I intended to remain here all night, and go on to Nodup
early in the morning, as we had done a very hard day's work ;
but after supper I found that sleep was out of the question.
I kept thinking about the news I had heard of Ratu Livai's
Illness, and got so troubled about it that at last 1 determined

SECOND TfiRM 6P RgSID^NCti 29^

to go on at once in the moonlight As soon as we got fairly
out in the bay I was glad to find that there was no wind which
would require me to keep awake, as I could hold out no longer.
I lay down on the seat, and, utterly worn out, managed to sleep
fiM* an hour. We then got into a nasty cross sea under the
Mother, which made our prepress very slow, and we did not
reach Nodup until about 2 a.m. Contrary to our expectations,
we found Ratu Livai very much better, in fact, nearly well
We rested all next day, and I opened the new church here in
the evening, after which we started at once for Kabakada.

**0n Friday, March 7, Mr. Danks left for Port Hunter,
and I remained. I was not at all well on Saturday, but
managed to preach in New Britain language on Sunday, after
which I was ill all the week until Mr. Danks returned on
Thursday. I left in the boat on Friday, 14th, and got home
only to be ill for days. In fact, I was scarcely out of bed
until about the 26th, when Mr. Southwell arrived in the
Minnie Low^ and brought us letters from home.

** Sunday, April 6. Preached at Molot this morning, and
at Kinawanua in the evening, to good congregations. What
a change there has been effected here in three years! To
God be all the praise. Just twelve months to-day since the
teachers were murdered. Last year we had nothing but sick-
ness and death at this season. This year has been far more
healthy."

TROUBLOUS DAYS. AND A BRIGHTER
MORNING

VII

TROUBLOUS DAYS, AND A BRIGHTER
MORNING

After these there are no more entries in my diary for several
months. Though I kept up and did some little work it soon
became evident that I was seriously ill, and that unless I
left the Group at once, and got medical assistance, there was
no hope of my recovery. Very fortunately, our kind friend
Mr. Hemsheim was going to Cooktown in the steam launch
Ali(x, and though the accommodation on such a small vessel
was very limited he very kindly offered to take me. We
had only very short notice, but I managed to get ready, and
we left the harbour of Makada on May i, 1879. My wife
and our three children had to remain behind, as it was quite
impossible to take them on such a very small vessel. My
good colleague, Rev. B. Danks, seems to have been very
anxious about me, as I found out afterwards. He wrote to
the General Secretary under date April 30 : " Mr. Brown
leaves here for Cooktown to-morrow in the steam launch
Alice, which belongs to Captain Hernsheim. Mr. Brown is
very ill — so ill that I am very much concerned about the
future. In all probability you will see him in Sydney, as he
thinks of going on from Cooktown. May God grant him
health, for he is almost worn out with continued suffering."
Mr. Hernsheim, or Captain Hernsheim, as we always called
him, was, as usual, very kind indeed, and fortunately we had
a fine passage to Cooktown. I knew no one there ; but a
kind friend who heard that a sick missionary had arrived

399

300

GEORGE BROWN

came down to the wharf, and very kindly took me to his
home, where I stayed until a steamer was going south. Mr.
Hartley, the son of a well-known minister of the Primitive
Methodist Church, was an utter stranger to me, but he and
his good wife nursed me very lovingly whilst I was in Cook-
town. They may have forgotten the stranger whom they
took into their home, but I have never forgotten their kind-
ness, and 1 trust that they will one day hear the Master
say, " Inasmuch as ye did it unto one of these My brethren,
even these least, ye did it unto Me." I left Cooktown in
the S.S. Egmont for Sydney ; and here again \ was fortunate,
for I found that the chief officer was my old friend Captain
W. C. Thompson, formerly an officer in the John WesUy. He
very kindly gave me a berth in his own cabin on the upper
deck, where we had many a good yarn about old times on
our journey down the coast.

At Brisbane I stayed for some days, where my dear friend
Rev. R. Sellors (now Dr. Sellers) was in charge of the Albert
Street Circuit. I well remember how thankful I was for
the glorious winter weather of Brisbane, and how grateful I
felt to my kind friends Rev. F. T. Brentnall and Mr. Rutledge
(now His Honour Sir Arthur Rutledge) and to Dr. Sellors
for their kind words, both in public and in private. I was
sadly in need of a little sympathy at that time, and the kindness
of the men I have named, and many others, did much to
cheer and strengthen me. I had, of course, to lecture, which
I did in the Albert Street Church on May 19 ; and as that
was my first public appearance since the event, my allusions
to our action in the Blanche Bay matter naturally excited
some attention, and were fully reported. The address was
well received by the audience, and I had no reason to complain
of the subsequent criticisms which were made on it in the
public Press.

I arrived in Sydney a few days afterwards, and was very
kindly received by Rev. B. Chapman, the General Secretary,
and by many friends there. Mr. and Mrs. William Clarke,

TROUBLOUS DAYS 301

then living at Castleres^h Street, Redfem, had, I found,
made a special request that I should stay with them on my
arrival, and I went at once to their home. Mr. Clarke was
then manager of a bank in Pitt Street. I have, as I gratefully
acknowledge, received much kindness from many kind friends,
but I always remember with feelings of the deepest and most
sincere gratitude the loving care and tender sympathy which
I received from Mr. and Mrs. Clarke, and from every member
of their family. It was well known before my arrival that
I was very seriously ill, and the prospect of having the care
of a man in such a condition might well have deterred any one
from offering to take such a responsibility ; but I was never
allowed to feel that the unwearied care and attention which
Mrs. Clarke especially bestowed upon me was at all onerous
to them, or considered otherwise than as a work which they
were privileged to do for Christ's sake.

On the Sunday after my arrival in Sydney I was asked
to give an address in the Bourke Street Church, and, though
I was quite unfit to do so, I did not like to disappoint the
people. I managed to speak with comparative ease for some
time, but just before the end of my address I suddenly collapsed.
This was not very apparent to the audience, but I felt at
once that all my physical strength was leaving me, and I am
quite certain to this day that I could have died on that platform,
and that I should indeed have done so, had I not made a most
determined resistance. Some of my friends were in tears
when they spoke to me after the service, and I myself felt
very weak and helpless. I got rapidly worse after this, and
though I had the best medical attendance which it was possible
to obtain, I made no apparent progress. After several con-
sultations the medical gentlemen informed the Board of
Missions that there was no hope of my recovery, and that,
in their judgment, I ought to be informed of that fact. The
late Rev. B. Chapman, and my brother-in-law, the late Rev. W.
Fletcher, B.A., were deputed by the Board to convey this
opinion to me ; and, needless to say, they did so as kindly

302

GEORGE BROWN

as was possible. After they had told me I said that I would
like to see our children, who were in New Zealand, and Mr.

Chapman decided to cable for them at once ; but on looking
at the newspaper we found that there was no steamer leaving
Auckland for at least ten days; so I requested hira not to
send the message until just before the date on which they could
leave. After this we talked together for a while, and I said
to Mr. Chapman : " Well ! all I can say is that I do not feel
inclined to die just now " ; to which he replied in his own
quaint manner : " Well, don't die ! " I answered : " I assure you
I don't mean to die just now if I can help it, for I have too
much work to do yet." I firmly believe that the strong
determination to live until some of that work was done was
a most important factor in my recovery, and I prayed most
earnestly that I might live until I was able to put on record
some of the knowledge of the language which I had gained.
There was no other white man at that time who knew the
language, and I felt that if I were spared to translate one of
the Gospels, some of the knowledge I had acquired would,
at all events, be preserved. I fought against the disease
most resolutely, and I am afraid that in doing so I was the
cause of much distress to my kind hostess by my apparently
wilful conduct. She and all my friends thought I should
remain quietly in bed, but I persisted in rising and coming
downstairs every day, and whenever I felt a bit stronger,
and got a good opportunity, I used to slip out of the house and
step into a passing omnibus and go down town, where I
am told I frightened most people I met by my appearance.
Very slowly the fearful rigors, which were the most ominous
symptoms, got a little less frequent, and then, to the amazement
of all, I announced that, instead of sending for the children,
1 would go to New Zealand myself and see them. I was warned
that 1 should probably die at sea, but I told my friends that
heaven was as near us at sea as on shore. The S.S. Hero
was at that time commanded by an old friend of mine, Captain
Logan, and I took a passage with him. He often said after-

TROUBLOUS DAYS 303

wzrds that when I went on board all he could see was " a hat,
a great coat, and a pair of boots." I had not been allowed
to eat anything on shore but milk food, sago, arrowroot, boiled
flour, etc., but when I got to sea I asked the steward for a
mutton chop. I was just preparing to eat the forbidden food
when the captain saw me, and at once snatched my plate
away, called the steward, and absolutely forbade him to give
me anything else than the food which I had indignantly classed
under the generic name of " slops." He was a good man and
an earnest Christian ; and I think now that if he had allowed
me to have my own way he would not have had the satisfaction
of landing me safely in Auckland.

I have no record of the date of my arrival in Auckland. I
remember well, however, how glad I was to see again our five
dear children whom we had been compelled to leave behind us
when we returned to New Britain in 1877, and how much I
was cheered and encouraged by the loving sympathy of our
many dear friends in New Zealand. I gave a long address in
the Pitt Street Church, on August 6, which showed that the
voyage and change, and a few weeks' rest, had been beneficial
to me, though I was still very weak. This address was given
just before my return to Australia, as I find notes of my having
lectured in Bathurst and other places in August.

We left Sydney in the/o/m Wesley on Thursday, September
18, for Tonga, Fiji, Samoa, and New Britain. The General
Secretary, Rev. B. Chapman, and the Rev. W, Clarke, who
were appointed as Deputation to Tonga ; the Rev. J. B. and
Mrs. Watkin, and Mrs. Chapman, were also passengers. We
arrived in Tonga on Saturday, October 4, 1 879 ; and after the
Deputation had finished the work which was entrusted to them
by the Conference, we left for Fiji on Thursday, October 30,
and reached Levuka on November 3.

On our arrival, Mr. Chapman and Mr. Clarke called upon
His Excellency Sir Arthur Gordon (now Lord Stanmore), the
Governor of Fiji and High Commissioner for the Western

GEORGE BROWN

Pacific, who informed them that he had received instructions
from Her Majesty's Government to make a careful inquiry into
the circumstances attending the steps taken by myself and
others in consequence of the murder of certain native teachers
in New Britain, and that he proposed to put certain questions
to me with reference to the subject. His Excellency, however,
afterwards decided that as the Chief Judicial Commissioner, the
Hon. John Gorrie, who was Deputy High Commissioner at the
time of the occurrence, was absent from Levuka on vacation, he
would defer the investigation until his return. As my case was
therefore not then sub j'udice. His Excellency very courteously
included mc in an invitation to dine at Government House with
the members of the Deputation, and Revs. F. Langham and
A. J. Webb.

Next day we all started for Bau ; but soon after we had passed
Government House we saw a whale-boat with a very strong
crew coming after us. As it was evident that they wished to
communicate with us we turned back to meet them. I, of
course, received a lot of sympathetic banter from my fellow-
passengers about the fate which awaited me when the boat
reached us. However, their only object was to hand me a letter,
in which I was informed that H.M.S. Emerald, which had just
arrived, had brought despatches containing the result of a
judicial inquiry in New Britain made by Captain Purvis of
H.M.S, Dana, by instructions from Commodore Wilson. Avery
dear friend of mine sent me a private message at the same time
to say that the reports were favourable. So we went on our
journey with much satisfaction. We visited Bau, Viwa, and
Navuloa, and returned to Levuka on Saturday.

On Monday, November lo, Mr, Chapman and Mr. Clarke
called on His Excellency, as they proposed leaving Fiji on the
following day. His Excellency again assured them that he
would make the inquiries himself as soon as possible, but before
the interview was finished he was astonished by receiving the
intelligence that His Honour, the Chief Justice, had issued a
summons against me for manslaughter, thus taking the matter

^^^^^1

■

^^^^^■^^£^11^ ^ ^ /

iiy

TROUBLOUS DAYS 305

•

out of his hands, and soon afterwards Mr. Chapman received a
subpoena to appear as witness. Tliis was a very serious matter,
as the steamer was leaving the next day for Sydney. Mr.
Chapman called on the Chief Justice, and pleaded to be allowed
to go, as he had no material evidence to give ; but His Honour
absolutely refused to sanction his departure. I had, however,
ascertained that the probable reason for detaining Mr. Chapman
was that he might prove that the letters which appeared in the
Sydney Morning Herald and other papers were written by me.
This was important, as my own letters were practically the only
evidence against me. On learning this I called upon the
R^;istrar of the Supreme Court, and informed him that it was
very necessary indeed that Mr. Chapman should leave Fiji the
following day, and that I could think of no possible reason for
his detention unless it were to prove the authorship of the
letters which had appeared in the public prints. I stated that
I was ready to admit that the letters were written by me, and to
sign any document which he might prepare for that purpose,
and I requested him to submit my proposal to the Chief Justice
with a view to obtaining his consent to Mr. Chapman's
departure. Shortly afterwards I met His Honour, when he
told me that if I would write him a letter admitting the author-
ship of the letters he would allow Mr. Chapman to leave the
Colony. This I did at once, and the Deputation left next day,
November 1 1, for Sydney, much to their satisfaction.

On the same day I received a letter from the Secretary to
the High Commissioner, requesting me to go to Government
House. As no intimation was given of the nature of the
interview, I supposed that His Excellency only wished to ask me
some questions, and so went alone. On my arrival at Govern-
ment House I was shown into a large empty room. After
waiting awhile His Excellency came in, wearing, so far as I
remember, his D.C.L. robes, and accompanied by the Secretary
to the High Commissioner, the late Sir J. B. Thurston. His
Excellency then read me an address informing me of tho
instructions which he had received from Her Majes^s Govem-

3o6

GEORGE BROWN

ment, of his intentions to ask me certain questions regarding
the occurrence, and of the reason which had prevented him from
carrying out his instructions and wishes. After this he came
and shook hands with me. As I was up to that time ignorant
of the fact that the proceedings were official, I asked if I might
be furnished with a copy of his address, to which His Excellency
replied: "Oh! certainly, Mr. Brown, the proceedings were
official, and you might have had all your friends present if you
wished them to be here." I did not receive the copy of the
address for some few days, but this was owing to the wise and
kindly consideration of my sincere friend, the Secretary to the
High Commissioner, who feared that we might make use of it
in a way that would have made the position of the Chief Justice,
and perhaps also my own, very unpleasant. He therefore
deemed it advisable not to forward His Excellency's deliverance
for publication until after the proceedings in the Supreme
Court on the 13th. The Minutes of the proceedings as furnished
to me are as follows :

" Extract from the Minutes of Proceedings before Her Majesty:
High Commissioner for the Western Pacific^ — November
II, 1879.

"John B. Thurston,

*' Secretary to the Commissioner.

"The Reverend George Brown being in attendance, the
High Commissioner said :

" Mr. Brown, before leaving England I received the instruc-
tions of Her Majesty's Government to make a careful inquiry
into the circumstances attending the steps taken by yourself
and others in consequence of the murder of certain native
teachers in New Britain, and it was my intention to-day to have
taken advantage of your presence in Levuka to put to you
certain questions with reference to this subject

" I learn, however, that a criminal charge arising out of those
transactions has been preferred against you in the High
Commissioner's Court, and that you are to-morrow to be called

TROUBLOUS DAYS 307

upon to answer to that cha^^e before the Chief Judicial Gxn-
missioner. I am therefore precluded from now putting any
question to you which might affect your plea, nor do I think it
would be possible for me with propriety to continue at present
the investigation with which I have been charged. I do not
know what evidence may be adduced before the Chief Judicial
Commissioner in support of the chai|^ which has been made,
and, no doubt, whatever it may be it will be impartially and
carefully considered by him. But I think it only due to you
to say that thus far the evidence which has been submitted
to me, which includes your own letters, the statements of various
parties concerned, and a mass of depositions lately taken by
the captain of H.M.S. DaruBy would not have led me to
institute, or to recommend the institution of, a criminal pro-
secution. In saying this, I do not inquire whether or no the
action taken by you was* in accordance with your calling as a
missionary ; that is a point with which I have nothing to da
Your acts must be r^^arded by me in the same light as those
of any planter or settler in the group where you were resident.
Neither do I pronounce, or even form any opinion, as to the
strict necessity of the measures taken. They may have been
wholly necessary, or they may have been partially so, and yet
pushed too far. They may even have been hasty and
unnecessary, but there is a vast difference between indiscretion
and criminality ; and as I have before observed, nothing which
has come before me would lead me to impute to you any
suspicion of crime. Unless, therefore, other evidence which I
have not yet seen and which would produce a different impres-
sion on my mind had been adduced in the course of the inquiry,
I should not have reported that the case was one on which to
found judicial proceedings.

** I therefore cannot but hope that the evidence to be adduced
to-morrow may lead to a similar conclusion, and will free you
from all imputation of criminality, thereby enabling me, at no
distant day, to renew the investigation now so unfortunately
interrupted."

3o8

GEORGE BROWN

This deliverance naturally gave great satisfaction to my
many friends ; but there still remained some cause for
anxiety, as it was well known in Levulca that strained relations
existed between the two highest officials in the Colony on this
matter. His Excellency the High Commissioner felt that the
duty of making the necessary inquiries devolved upon him, in
accordance with the instructions which he had received from
Her Majesty's Government, but His Honour Sir John Gorrie,
who was Chief Judicial Commissioner, was declared to ha%'e
asserted his right to conduct the inquiry, and his determination
to do so. Many statements were made at the time as to the
reasons which actuated His Honour in the steps which he
took. He had always been persona grata with the Aborigines
Protection Society since the days of the prosecution of
Governor Eyre for his actions in suppressing the Jamaica
rebellion, in which prosecution Mr. Gorrie, as barrister, took a
leading part, and it was thought that much of the zeal which
he manifested was due to his desire still to occupy the same
good position in the opinion of the members of that influentiaJ
and useful Society. He was, at all events, considered by most,
if not by all the foreign residents of Fiji to be primarily, if
not solely, the instigator of the "action which was taken. My
good friend, the late Rev. Dr. Fison, writing to the Fiji
Times on the matter, had, as a resident in a Crown Colony, to
write very cautiously, but his meaning was very apparent
when, in referring to His Excellency's remarks made to me,
he said : "It is clear from the foregoing that criminal pro-
ceedings had already been commenced, but it is not so clear
as to who initiated them. The order for the summons was
obtained upon the information of the Attorney-General of
Fiji ; but, as he is not an officer of the High Commissioner's
Court, there must of course have been some prosecutor behind
him to set him in motion. Inasmuch, therefore, as he could
only have made the application in his professional capacity
as a barrister-at-law entitled to audience before the Court,
and as the Crown did not see cause to prosecute, one is lost in

TROUBLOUS DAYS 309

bewfldering speculation as to the source of the impulse which
moved him."

The next intelligence which we heard was that the
Attorney-General of Fiji had withdrawn from the case, and
refused to prosecute, so that I found myself in the singular
position of a man who had received a summons to answer a
criminal chai^ for which there was no prosecutor. I had from
the very first courted the fullest investigation, and had come
to Fiji in opposition to the advice of many kind friends in
New South Wales and Fiji, who strongly urged me not to do
so. I did this because I felt that it was due to the Missionary
Society and myself that the matter should be fairly considered
by the only tribunal which had the legal right to do so, and
that after that had taken place I should, whatever the result
might be, be in a position to speak and to write in defence of
oar action, and to submit it to the decision of my fellow-
countrymen, which I considered to be a higher tribunal than
even the Supreme Court in Fiji. As I had thus deliberately
come to Fiji, and had of my own accord placed myself within
the jurisdiction of the Court, the fact of there being no
prosecution would not have given me entire satisfaction had I
not known that the matter had already been fully investigated
on the spot by Captain Purvis of H.M.S. Dana^ whose
decision was distinctly favourable to us all. When we were
aware that the Attorney-General had withdrawn from the
case all doubts as to the issue of the proceedings were removed,
as we well knew that no British judge could occupy the
positions of prosecutor, judge, and jury in any part of the
Empire. Mr. Solomon, a well-known and very able barrister
in Fiji, was instructed by my old and well-tried friend, the
late Rev. Dr. Langham, to appear on my behalf, and I duly
appeared at the Court on Thursday, November 13, in answer
to the summons I had received. There was no opportunity
given for Counsel to speak, as the Chief Justice, as will be
seen from the address which he made to me, had evidently
decided to consider the deliverance of His Excellency the

310

GEORGE IBROWN

Governor as analogous to that of a Grrand Jury, and so did
not allow the matter to be discussed. When the case was
called I rose from nay seat by the side of Mr. Solomon, and
the Chief Justice addressed me as follows :

" Mr. Brown, you are aware that these proceedings were
originally commenced on the receipt of your own letter which
I received as Acting High Commissioner, narrating the events
which had taken place in New Britain. No summons was
actually issued, as it was hoped, either that the investigation
would take place in New Britain, or that you would come to
Levuka. On your arrival recently, the summons was ac-
cordingly issued, and you are here to-day to answer it ; but in
the meantime — for much delay has necessarily taken place — a
very full inquiry into the circumstances of the affair in New
Britain has been made by a competent naval officer under the
authority of the Commodore, and the result of that inquiry
has been, since your arrival in Levuka, received by the High
Commissioner. No inquiry by a naval officer can, of course,
be taken as a legal investigation where an offence has been
committed by a British subject within the jurisdiction of the
Order in Council, but such inquiries are most useful in
supplying the High Commissioner with information, and to
enable him to determine whether acts done in the Western
Pacific ought, or ought not, to be regarded as offences, and to
be prosecuted as such in the public interest. I have received
from the High Commissioner communication of the documents
supplied by the Commodore, with an expression of His
Excellency's opinion as to whether you ought to be prosecuted
as for an offence under the Order in Council or not, and that
opinion is, that yours is not such a case as ought to be so
prosecuted. The High Commissioner, as you are aware, has
not merely executive authority, with power to authorise counsel
to prosecute for the public interest, but he is, by the constitution
of the High Commissioner's Court, the head of that Court, to
whose opinion as to the propriety of the institution of pro-
ceedings other judges of that Court are bound to give that

TROUBLOUS t)AVS 311

ttapodt and defierence to which it so wdl entitied. I tfaerefiMe,
in these drcmnstances, do not propose to i»ooeed liirUMr with
this matter; indeed, there is in point of fact no prosecntor
(the Attorney-General was here asked if this was not so, and
he replied, Yes), and you are accordingly free to depart"

I received very hearty congratulations from my many friends
as soon as the Court adjourned. It was indeed a great pleasure
to me to know that all through this affair I had the full sym-
pathy, not only of all my ministerial brethren, but also of the
whole of the residents in Fiji I had received an intimation
acHne days before that a number of the residents in Levuka
intended to invite me to a public dinner after the trial, the
successful issue of which was not then doubtful, as an expression
of their sympathy ; but this I declined with many thanks, as
I was very anxious indeed to proceed at once on our voy^e. I
can now tell why I was so anxious to get to sea. It will be
remembered that, soon after our arrival in Fiji, H.M.S. Emerald
arrived, bringing the despatches containing the report of the
inquiry made in New Britain by Captain Purvis, of H.M.S. Dana,
She also brought as prisoner a half-caste Tonga (Mr. J. K.), who
was accused of having committed at least two murders in New
Britain. As I knew the man well I visited him in the gaol at
Levuka, and reminded him of the many warnings which I had
given him of the fearful effects of intemperance, more especially
upon a man of his temperament and disposition. I also urged
that if he should regain his liberty he would never ^ain indulge
in the practice which had led him to the commission of such
fearful crimes, and this he faithfully promised to do. I visited
this man simply because I felt a great sympathy for him, and
knew that when he was sober he was one of the quietest and
most obliging of men I have ever known. As soon, however
as he took any intoxicating drink he became most quarrel-
some, and was eager to fight even his best friends. As soon
as I returned from this visit I began to think that I had acted
imprudently in visiting the prisoner, and I was very much
afraid that if the Chief Justice knew that I was in New Britain

312

GEORGE BROWN

at the time of the first alleged murder committed by K., and
that I had myself reported the fact to the High Commissioner,
he would issue a subpoena summons to me, and I should thus
be prevented from proceeding on my voyage. This it was
which made me so anxious to get to sea, and I instructed
Captain Mansell to be fully prepared to weigh anchor im-
mediately after the matter was decided. This he did, and as
soon as I was " free to depart " I said good-bye to my many
kind friends and went on board the /o/m Wesley. There was no
wind, however, and we were compelled to wait until the next
day (Friday), when we weighed anchor and tried to get through
the passage ; but the wind failed us, and we had to drop down
to another part of the lagoon, and anchor for the night just in
front of Sir John Gorrie's house. I was not very comfortable,
especially as I knew that His Honour had said to one of our
ministers after the trial that I should not have been free to
depart if he could have prevented it. Next morning (Saturday),
however, the wind was fair, and we were soon at sea, and
with our sails full and the sheets hauled taut, we were glad to
dip the flag, and again say good-bye to our many kind friends
on shore.

Before giving the concluding part of this episode I wish to
place on record my very sincere thanks to all my brethren in
Fiji, more especially to my dear old friend the late Rev. Dr.
Langham, for their unwearying labours on my behalf, and for
their loving sympathy with me. Dr. Langham indeed was more
concerned about the issue than I was, and I well remember his
saying to the brethren in plaintive protest : " What's the good of
our bothering about this affair when Brown himself doesn't seem
to care a farthing how it goes ? Here arc we distressing ourselves
with anxiety and fear, and he is quite unconcerned." No man
was so anxious as my much-loved old friend, and it was a great
sorrow to me when his anxiety caused one of those painful
seizures from which he suffered during the last years of his
labours in Fiji. The late Rev. A. J. and Mrs. Webb, who were
then stationed at Levuka, were also very kind indeed to me ;

TROUBLOUS DAYS 313

as also RevsL W. W. Lindsay and I. Roonejr. The Rev. L Pison
was then, as ever after, one of the best friends I have ever had.
His wise counsels were invaluable to us all, and the able manner
in which he stated the whole case in the public journals, and
the manly and yet tender sympathy which he expressed, did
much to cheer and strengthen me, not only at the time, but
throughout the whole of my life.

Before leaving Fiji I received, through the courtesy of my
friend, the late Sir J. B. Thurston, K.C.M.G., then Secretary to
the High Commissioner and Colonial Secretary, and afterwards
the Governor of Fiji, copies of the report of Captain Purvis, and
also of the whole of the evidence of whites and natives, taken
on oath at the investigation made by him in New Britain. I
do not think it necessary to give the latter, and will only say
that they were all distinctly favourable. They also showed
that, as I anticipated, the number of deaths was very much
exaggerated at the time. When the various witnesses were
examined on oath, only one man — and he was a Duke of York
native — was found who could testify that he had seen ten
bodies; the others only saw from two to seven men who had
been killed

The following is a copy of that part of Captain Purvis's
report which bears upon the case.

" Dana at Sea,
".Lat. 2° 25' f ; Lon. IS2"» 3' 9*,

<' September 2Z, 1879.

"Sir, — In obedience to your orders to make a full inquiry
respecting the action taken by the Rev. Geoi^e Brown in
carrying war against the natives of New Britain in April 1878, I
have the honour to make the following report :

" In consequence of the time that has elapsed since the event,
most of the white population who could have thrown any light
on the subject have either left or died.

" I have, however, obtained the evidence of two respectable
white men, Mr. Powell, late master of the ketch Star of th§
Easft and Mr. Southwell (a native of Boston, U.S.), the latter

314

GEORGE BROWN

trading for the German firm of Messrs. Goddefroy at Kabakada
at the time of the massacre, also several Fijian and Samoan
teachers.

" From Mr. Powell's evidence I gather that Mr. Brown,
previous to taking action, endeavoured to obtain some apology
from the natives, but failing in that he returned to Port Hunter
and there assembled all the available white residents to obtain
from them their views on what seemed to him a most serious
crisis.

" The counsel thus called together represented all the various
interests of the island, both English and German, and all urged
Mr. Brown to take immediate steps to suppress the impending
rising of which they seemed assured. This evidence is borne out
by Ratu Livai, a Fijian chief and missionary teacher, who was
in New Britain at the time of the murder, and who, in virtue of
his rank as chief, was called to the council of war.

" Mr. Southwell (who evidently was the means of saving the
unfortunate wives of the murdered men from being eaten) had
nothing to do with the expedition, being at Kabakada, New
Britain, the whole time. His evidence, therefore, is most
important He considers that had no steps been taken to
revenge the murder of the teachers, no white man's life would
have been safe. He is also of opinion that it would have been
impossible to have left the matter till the arrival of a man-of-war:
and in this Mr. Powell agrees.

" There is a difference of opinion between these two witnesses
as to whether the Duke of York natives would have followed
those of New Britain, Mr, Powell considering they would, and
Mr. Southwell being of a contrary opinion.

" Most of the native teachers, however, are of Mr. Powell's
opinion, Aminio Bale stating that the Rev. Brown's wife
was threatened, and his (Aminio's) wife had a spear pointed
at her.

"In reviewing the evidence it does not appear to me that
the Rev. Brown did, on his own responsibility, make war on
the New Britain people, that the action taken was by the

TROUBLOUS DAYS 315

united voices of those persons who were best able to jvuAgt
of tiie drcumstance^ several of whom had been a oonsidei^
able time in the islands, and knew thoroughly the native
character.

"The question now arises whether the Rev. Brown, in his
capacity as clergyman and missionary, should have been present
in the attack. This, I think, may be answered by the fact
that the disturbance had commenced by the killing and eating
of his teachers, and that the excitement of the natives in conse-
quence placed the lives of the white men and the other native
teachers in jeopardy, so that the Rev. Brown could not fail to be
present in order to give the full weight of his authority to the
proceedings. He, however, appears to have spent most of the
time on the beach trying to bring the natives of some of
the other dbtricts to reason, and was not personally in any of
the places where most of the natives were killed. I therefore
diink Mr. Brown, having regard for the safety of those people
entrusted to his care, could hardly have acted otherwise than he
did. . • .

" I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant,

" C. Purvis.

'*To Commodore Crawford Wilson, etc., etc."

As this is practically all that I shall have to say on this
matter, beyond giving in its proper order the resolution of
the General Conference, I now give a copy of a letter which
I addressed to TAe Australasian, in answer to a paragraph
which appeared in that journal. I do this because it con-
tains a r^sum6 of the whole case, and because it gives me
the opportunity of stating that after the publication of that
letter I received nothing but the most kindly sympathy from
the editor of that important and influential newspaper.

"TO THE EDITOR OF 'THE AUSTRALASIAN.'

"Sir, — In your issue of September 25, just received here,
I notice the following remarks : ' Instances of arbitraiy action

3i<

GEORGE BROWN

on the part of missionaries of the Gospel are becoming un-
pleasantly frequent. It is not long since the Rev. G. Brown,
of Duke of York Island, commanded " the army of revenge,"
which exacted such bloody satisfaction for certain native
outrages.' I feel certain, sir, that you must have inserted
these remarks either from forgetful ness or from ignorance of
the real facts of the case, as elicited from the official inquiries
made both here, on the spot, and in Fiji. Will you allow
me, please, to place before you very briefly my own case,
and ask you to consider it fairly, without reference to sects
or to societies ; without favour, as also without prejudice to
me because I am a missionary ; but with simple, impartial
justice, because I am an Englishman?

" I was placed suddenly in circumstances of almost
unparalleled difficulty ; a fearful responsibility involving the
life or death of numbers of my fellow-countrymen and fellow-
labourers was suddenly thrust upon me, and in that position we
did that which I then thought to be the only means of saving
our own lives and the lives of those under our care. I still think
that we did right, but I cannot and do not blame those who
may think differently ; and I cannot in charity wish that any of
them may ever be placed in a similar position. I do, however,
claim that my actions and the reasons alleged for them only be
judged, and that I may not have motives imputed to me which
certainly never influenced my conduct.

" In April 1878 four of our teachers were foully murdered
and eaten on New Britain, and the life of every white man
or foreigner in the group was not only placed in great jeopardy,
but was actually and openly threatened. The few white men
met and earnestly urged immediate action to prevent an actual
and imminent danger, namely, the murder in detail of every
white man and teacher, and the same fate, or a worse one, for
their wives and children. The few traders themselves supplied
the arms for this act of self-defence, as we had not a musket
which could be used ; and we united with tlicm. Our action was
entirely approved by the natives themselves as a necessary act

TROUBLOUS DAYS 317

of self-preservation, and one quite in accordance with their x>wn
ideas of justice. The bones of some of the murdered men were
found in the small villz^es which were burnt, and, as far as
we can possibly know, only the actual perpetrators and partici-
pators of the murders suffered. Peace was made the next day,
and we have ever since been on the most friendly terms with
the people.

" Now first, I would ask, Did we do wrong in defending our

lives and the lives of our wives and children from a number of

cannibals who had tasted blood, had made a good deal of money

by selling portions of the bodies of our comrades far and wide,

and who openly declared their intentions to have more to use

for the same profitable purpose ? Or, to narrow the case, as you

so frequently use my name, did I do wrong in taking part in

this affair ? My own life was certainly not in imminent danger

just at that time, and we on Duke of York Island might,

perhaps, have saved ourselves for that present time — though in

the opinion of some even that was doubtful — but the lives of my

fellow-countrymen and fellow-labourers were certainly in most

imminent peril, and as a matter of undoubted fact, I was only

just in time to save the lives of the widows and orphans of the

murdered men. Should I have done right then, sir, in staying

at home in safety and leaving my companions in peril, the poor

fellows who had followed me here from their homes in Fiji, to

perish miserably by the hands of cruel savages, ignorant, as they

were then, even of the very name of Christianity, knowing as I

did that I was the only one who was able to prevent it ? Would

I not have been branded deservedly as a mean, contemptible

coward, who had led men and women, and children too, into

dangers which he was afraid to share, and had left them to

perish miserably when he could have saved their lives ? Come

what may, I am devoutly thankful that my children and my

friends have no occasion to blush for such a disgrace as that I

have had trouble and suffering enough, sir, about this matter —

harder to bear because I have hitherto been almost compelled

to «lence, and have had to hear my good name traduced by

GEORGE BROWN

some without having the power to speak in my own defence;
but I have never once repented my share in the transaction.
Bitterly have I regretted the necessity of it, but I have never
doubted the justice of the action ; and hard as it has been to hear
the adverse criticisms of the few who have been utterly unable
to realise the position in which we were placed, I am still thank-
ful that my own conscience is clear. Had 'I acted as some of
my fireside critics tell me, I should have been for ever degraded
in my own eyes, and would never again have dared to look an
English audignce in the face. 1, sir, could never have talked
any nonsense about the glories of martyrdom when I knew well
that it was no question of martyrdom at all> but that the men
had been murdered because a lot of cannibals who had never
heard of Christianity wished to eat them or to make money by
selling their limbs to others, as they had already done with our
teachers, and that I, who might have saved them, had been so
much ' afraid of what people would say,' that I failed to do so,
and even refused them the means of saving themselves. As it
is, I am not ashamed or afraid to stand before any company of
Englishmen in any part of the world to teil them our tale, and
to let them judge.

*' 1 have shown my love for the natives by giving the best
years of my life to promote their best interests, both temporal
and spiritual, and the fact that even these savages here esteem
and respect us as their best friends, and that I still enjoy the
confidence of my brethrenj. should surely have some effect in
the consideration of this matter. I must ask you, however,
please, to separate my name from that of our society or of any
other missionary society in this matter. If I have done wrong
in this, I alone am to blame and I do not shirk the responsibility.
I need not assure you that it forms no part of our instructions
to coerce or to oppress natives, nor do we do it Nothing but
the most dire necessity would ever justify us with our society for
using force, even to save life, though some remarks made lately
would almost lead an outsider to infer that muskets and navy
cats form a necessary and important part of a missionary's outfit

TROUBLOUS DAYS 319

"To show tiiat I have not given yoa simply my own opinion
<^ the matter in the remarks I have made, I will now quote
from the official report of Captain Purvis, of H.M.S. Datura
a well-known and experienced officer, who was sent down
officially to investigate the matter. He arrived here whilst I
was ill in Sydney, and I have never seen him nor had any
communication whatever with him." (See pages 313-315.)

I then gave an account of the visits and inquiries made in
New Britain by Captain de Hoghton, H.M.S. Bea^ \ Captain
Home, H.M.S. Sandfly ; Imperial German Consul, H. Webber,
Esq. ; Captain von Werner, H.I.G.M.S. Ariadne ; and their
opinions and judgment I then proceeded:

'^In May of last year I was compelled to go to Sydney,
being very ill indeed. As soon as ever I was able to do so I
went to Fiji, even against the advice of kind friends, and placed
myself within the jurisdiction of the Supreme Court there
in order to court the very fullest investigation. Sir Arthur
Gordon declared in his official capacity that there was no evidence
which would at all justify any criminal proceeding, the Attorney-
General of Fiji refused to prosecute, and the Chief Justice
dismissed the case. Could I have done more than I have done,
or are there any signs of conscious guilt in my actions ?

" I have been commended, and our actions approved, by the
highest authorities in the colonies, both official and naval, and
have been l^ally acquitted by those who alone had jurisdiction
over us. I am still assured of the cordial sympathy and
confidence of the vast majority of my brethren, though I had
more reason to dread censure from them than from any others.
Every officer who has visited us here, every trader who has ever
called or who has ever lived here, has approved, and I feel pretty
certain that the great majority of my fellow-countrymen do the
same ; so I cannot understand, sir, why you still speak of my
commanding ' an army of revenge,' and appear to hold me up
as a warning and example of what dangerous men missionaries
are. I am the more surprised, as I had no reason to complain

320

GEORGE BROWN

of the first fair and honest criticism which appeared in TJu
Australasian on this matter. I do not wish to appear over-
sensitive, nor do I object to fair criticism. 1 know, of course,
that missionaries, like other men, may sometimes do foolish and
illegal acts, and, equally of course, that they must take the
consequences and suffer the penalties of their misdeeds ; but I
maintain, sir, that, although I have been gratified by the
approval of the many, I have yet borne a great deal of un-
merited obloquy and suffering from the few, especially from one
or two in England, who know least about the matter ; and now,
when I have done so much to court and to assist investigation,
when such a mass of evidence in my favour has been produced
and acknowledged, when so many gentlemen of unquestioned
honour who have actually been here have borne testimony to
the necessity and justice of our action, and when I have been
acquitted by those who alone could legally adjudicate on the
case, I confess that this persistence in regarding as guilty an
innocent man appears to be very like persecution. I say
' appears to be,' because I do not believe that you so intend it,
and I therefore presume that you do not really know the
facts of the case. This, therefore, is my apology for troubling
you."

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE IN NEW BRITAIN

': :

VIII

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE IN NEW BRITAIN

After leaving Fiji we proceeded on our voyage to New
Britain. The following account of this eventful voyage was
written by me at sea for the information of the Board of
Missions, and when the events which it records were still
fresh in my memory.

We left Fiji on Saturday, November 15, but did not pass
the Island of Tucopia until December 6, on which day we got
our first fair wind, and began to indulge hopes of having a
quick run to Duke of York.

" Mondcgfy December 8. At noon to-day we were by dead
reckoning (as no observations could be got), in lat. 12' 10, south,
long. 164*54 c^s^> wind about north-east, barometer 29*90.
There was a heavy squall at 6 p.m. ; the top-gallant sails
were taken in and the upper topsails lowered down. The
storm cleared away a little, and at 7 p.m. the upper fore-topsail
was again hoisted. At this time a poor exhausted and frightened
sea-bird, which must have been conscious of the coming storm,
took refuge with us. It dropped on deck, and ran for shelter
bdiind a spar under the bulwark. Mr. Lancaster saved it both
fix>m the jaws of the old cat and from the fury of the gale, by
putting it under an empty case in his cabin. At 7.30 p.m. we
had family prayer as usual in the cabin, when most of the crew
were present. Soon after 8 p.m. the barometer b^an to fall
rapidly and the gale increased in violence. At 9 p.m. all sail
was taken in, and a piece of canvas was put up in the weather
main ri^ng to keep her head to the wind, which was then

.3>3

324

GEORGE BROWN

blowing hard from norlh to north-north-cast The captain tried
to get the royal yards sent down on deck, but no one could
venture aloft to attempt to do so then. The main- and after-
hatches were battened down, and nothing more could be done
but wait and watch.

" How can I now describe to you the scenes which followed ?
In the lulls between the fierce gusts of the gale I could hear
the teachers and their wives praying to God to have mercy
upon us all. I had been in several times and comforted them
as well as I could, but one or two of the more frightened ones
alarmed them all again ; though afterwards, when we really
expected death, they were all as quiet and collected as it was
possible to be. The captain and I were often anxiously looking
at the barometer, but, alas! there was no hope for us there.
Afterwards, when the captain could not come down from the
companion-stairs, I gave him the readings from time to time.
It was really terrifying to notice the rapid, regular fall of the
mercury. When it fell below 29', I knew well what was in
store for us ; in fact, it was almost already upon us. No words
can adequately describe the noise of the wind. It really
shrieked and howled as if mad with rage against us, and ever
and again it seemed to throw itself against the good old ship
with another savagely exultant burst of fury, as of a demon
exulting in the fulfilment of a long-deferred but ever-longed-
for vengeance. I have felt the force and heard the roar of a
hurricane on the land, and have been in many a heavy gale at
sea, but have never felt or heard anything to equal that ; and this
is also the testimony of all on board. We have old sailors on
board who were out in the Dandenong gale, and who have ex-
perienced the force of some of the severest cyclones in India and
China, and other parts of the world, who all declare that they never
felt the wind to blow so hard, though they have known a much
higher sea. The poor natives all came crowding into the cabin,
and we anxiously awaited the issue. I managed to get another
reading of the barometer at 10.45 p.m., and to my horror saw
that it was down to 2882. I set the vernier at that» but I bad

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 325

no chanee of taking another reading. I think it probably how-
ever, that it fell a little lower than 'this. We were expecting a
shift of wind, and Captain Mansell was calling out continually :
' Now then, now, my lads, look out ; stand by the starboaid
main braces ; look out for a shift ; ' whilst the gale seemed
to roar and mock at him and at us all ; but the good old brig
still looked both wind and sea bravely in the face, and we were
almost beginning to hope that we might weather throi^h
after all

" I had just started to try and get another reading of the
barometer, when the gale struck her ^ain with fresh fury. We
felt the vessel give, as it were, a sudden leap from under us,
and evers^thing that was not lashed and secured broke adrift.
I narrowly escaped being crushed by the harmonium, as it gave
a mad leap right out of the cleets which had held it so long,
and was pitched against the side of my cabin, which it stove in.
The cai^o and the ballast all shifted to leeward, and the poor
John Wesley was forced down under water, and lay stricken and
trembling there whilst the waters rushed aboard as with a shont
of victory to take possession of the prize. Never will any <Mie
who was on board ever forget that fearful sight We all felt
her gradually settling down, and I climbed up the companion-
stairs, preferring to struggle and die in the open air rather than
in the cabin. The whole of the poop deck on the port side up
to the skylight and companion was under water, brightly
phosphorescent in the thick darkness and foaming and hissing
ander the fury of the gale, whilst all the fore part and main
deck of the ship on the same side was buried under the sea.
No one could stand or face the storm, and we alt thought and
fdt that the end was come. There was no crying nor confusion
then, but just a quiet, nerve-strung waiting for the ship's final
plunge, and the instinctive struggle for life which would follow.
Many a fervent prayer ascended to heaven, and many a good-
bye to our loved ones far away was felt and muttered during
these fearful moments.

*'But there was a chance yet; the cry was raised for axes to

326

GEORGE BROWN

cut away the masts, and every one felt that there was no time
to be lost. Fortunately Mr. Lancaster had axe and tomahawk
all sharpened and ready to hand for any emergency. From my
position in the companion I passed up the axe, and the steward
jumped up on deck with the tomahawk, and got half drowned
in trying to pass it to the second mate. And now you could hear
Captain Mansell, almost hoarse from excitement and shouting.
calling out : ' Cut away ! cut away ! cut for your lives ! ' Then
again : ' Steward ! Mr. Brown ! anybody ! get the new toma-
hawks out of the store, tomahawks ! tomahawks ! Get the
tomahawks ! " The steward was on deck, but the cook and I
tried to find the parcel in the store. It was no easy thing
holding on with one hand and trying to get a light with damp
matches with the other, whilst keeping the store-room door
open with one foot, so as to be able to strike out for the deck
if she filled, as we were expecting her to go from under us
every minute, for she was then on her broadside. Just at the
last moment the lanyards were cut through, and the mainmast,
unsupported by the stays and shrouds, went crashing over the
side, and soon afterwards the foremast also succumbed and
followed. This relieved the ship somewhat, but there was now
a new danger, that of the wreckage alongside, as some of the
masts or spars might knock a hole in the ship's bottom ; and
there was a fresh outcry for tomahawks. Fortunately we had
got the parcel then, and the cook and I tore it open and passed
them up, when everything which kept the spars and yards
alongside was cut away, and then they were all sent adrift
This was about 1 1 p.m. As soon as this weight was away the
ship righted a good deal, but so much of the cargo and ballast
had shifted that she still lay very much on her side. Captain
Mansell and I went 'tween decks, and 1 asked the teachers to
go to work and throw the yams, ballast, etc., which were piled
up right to the main deck beams on the leeside, over to wind-
ward. They were still very frightened, but several of them
went to work. Wiliami, a Tonga teacher, was very useful
indeed, and did good service both on deck when the masts

I
I

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 327

were being cut away, and also in the 'tween decks when moving
the ballast The steward also was one of the hardest workers
here, and by his presence and example encouraged the teachers
and kept them at the work. Whilst the crew were still busy
with the wreckage, the cook and I got one of the lower hold
hatches oflF, and he went down with a light. Very gladly did
I convey to Captain Mansell the report that the vessel was not
making any water. After the wreckage was sent adrift, and
the 'tween decks cargo was shifted to windward, there was
nothing else to do but to wait for daylight, leaving the poor
old storm-stricken brig to be buffeted about by wind and wave,
as she was quite unmanageable.

" Captain, officers, and crew had worked fearlessly and well,
and deserve all praise. But for the promptness with which the
masts were cut away and the wreckage sent adrift amid
circumstances of no little danger, this journal would never have
been written ; and no one would ever have known the fate of
our mission ship. Mr. Lancaster, the chief officer, had a very
narrow escape. When the vessel was thrown on her beam
ends he was thrown from the windward side by the lurch, and
was carried right over the lee rail by the rush of water. When
he came to the surface he was some little distance away from
the ship, and at once commenced to swim to her, as he was
sheltered by the hull from the force of the wind. The next
sea, however, dipped him up and threw him right on board
again, where he got hold of some ropes and climbed up again
to windward. Whilst waiting for daylight we were all, officers,
crew, and passengers, collected in the cabin, and though the
storm was still raging we felt comparatively safe. At last
the mercury began to rise again, telling us that the strength
of the gale was past. This was at 12.40 a.m., the wind being
then SS W. I sat listening to the talk going on around me. All
were loud in their praises of our vessel then. ' Isn't she a
beauty?' 'Didn't she behave well?' 'I'll never say a word
against the Johnnie so long as / live.' ' Talk about her being
cranky, why there's very few ships in this world wguJcl ever

3*8

GEORGE BROWN

have come up again after such a knock down as she got
to-night* These are a sample of one class of remarks. Then
there was a little cessation and a little talk about personal
risks and what each one did, but tfu topic was soon started
again by some one saying : ' But, I say, wasn't it a near go ? '
to which there was a general chorus of reply : * It was so,
it was indeed, couldn't have been nearer.* Then again : 'If
the masts hadn't gone when they did, she would have turned
turtle (capsized) in another minute.' This last remark was
most emphatically assented to, for it was, and is yet, the
full conviction of every one on board the ship. Just before
the mainmast went not one on board felt the faintest hof>e of
ever seeing the sunlight again. Other thoughts also and other
feelings occupied us during the remainder of that eventful
night, and heartily and earnestly did we each thank God
for His goodness in sparing our lives. Some few perhaps slept
a little in their wet clothes, but most of us were too much
agitated to sleep. Never did I pass such a wearisome night.
Over and over again the Tonga teacher Wiliami would go up
the companion and look out, an.vious to report the first peep
of daylight, and glad enough was I to hear him say at last,
' The light is climbing up,'

" Tuesday, December 9. Barometer 29*40. At daylight
I vvent on dock, and oh ! what a sad sight it was to see our
beautiful vessel in such a state ! Stripped of masts, spars, and
rigging, she looked so very small that it was difficult to realise
the fact that this was indeed our own ship. There was a jagged
and split stump of the mainmast standing, about ten or twelve
feet high ; another jagged stump was to be seen just above
the level of the cook's galley ; and those were all that remained
of masts and spars ; all besides had gone. The new whale-boat
had been swept away, and the davits also had been torn from
the side. The long-boat was washed away from her position
on the main hatches, but, fortunately, was but little injured.
The deck was strewn with broken boards, pieces of the bulwarks,
hen coops, etc. Away forward the jibboom was carried away,

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 339

but was stfll floating alon^de, attached to the ship by the
gays and stays. A torn and tattered sail was dipping in
the water from the end of the bowsprit, whilst ropes and chains
were hanging down over the bows, dipping into every sea,
the whole a very picture of wreck and ruin. The most serious
matter here, however, was the windlass, which was totally
wrecked, one of the large bitts having been torn away, I
suppose, by the mainstay when the mainmast went. The
sky was all a dull leaden colour, and a heavy sea was running,
whilst the wind still blew in heavy, fitful g^sts, which, however,
soon decreased in violence. All the live stock was swept away,
the only animal left being one of a lot of turkeys which
Mrs. Fison had kindly sent to Mrs. Danks and Mrs. Brown,
as we were anxious to introduce them into the group. This
sole survivor was, however, nearly dead, and so Captain M.
consigned it to the cook's care for our day's dinner. Two small
sta3^sails were rigged just to steady the ship a little, as the
sea was still running very high, and then the boat was secured
i^in on the main hatches. Captain Mansell then ordered a spare
topmast which we fortunately had on board to be got ready,
and this occupied all the remainder of the day. In the evening
we had our usual prayer-meeting in the cabin with all the
crew, and oh! how appropriate the 'Traveller's Hymn' was
felt to be. Every one joined heartily in the singing. I re-
member it being sung by kind friends as we were leaving
Sydney in September last, when Mr. Fletcher gave it out on
board the /oAn Wesley^ but we never before so fully realised
the truth—

When by the dreadful tempest borne
High on the dreadful wave,

They know Thou art not slow to hear.
Nor impotent to save.

The storm is laid, the winds retire.

Obedient to Thy will ;
The sea, that roars at Thy command.

At Tl^ coaunand is still.

330

GEORGE BROWN

We are yet in no little danger ; the hull is just tossed about
in every direction at the mercy of the wind and wave, and
we cannot get any observations to enable the captain to find
out our position ; but yet —

In midst of dangers, fears, and death.

Thy goodness we'll adore ;
We'll praise Thee for Thy mercies
And humbly hope for more.

past.

" Wednesday, December lO. Last night Captain Mansell
tried to get an observation from some star in order to ascertain
our latitude, but did not succeed. Lots of sharks were about
the ship this morning ; we caught two of them, one of which,
as he was being hoisted up, vomited the wings and feathers
of one of the nice turkeys we brought from Navuloa. The
brute had evidently enjoyed it, and no doubt would have
liked another one. All on board were hard at work early this
morning trying to raise the topmast as a jury mast. The first
attempt did not succeed, as the ship was rolling very much.
The mast was, however, well up, when some rope carried away,
and it fell to the deck again. The next attempt was successful,
and by 9 a.m. it was hoisted, lashed to the stump of the foremast,
and partly secured. This was no easy job, as the vessel was
so very unsteady, and all were very glad to see the mast on
end, and to know that no one had been injured whilst getting
it up. Officers and crew all worked well, and we passengers
hauled in the slack and gave other like important help. At noon
Captain Mansell ascertained our position to be lat. 118 south,
and long. 164*5 east, wind a little to the eastward of south ; so
we hope to be able to reach St. Christoya!, which is our nearest
land, being about ninety miles away."

I then stated the reasons in favour of this course ; that,
owing to exceptionally fine weather, the crew were able to
get up all the spars which were available, and to set all the sail
we were able to use ; that the captain then, much to my
sorrow, decided to make for the Australian coast ; and that, after
a long, tedious voyage, we reached Sydney on January 23,

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 331

I wrote tibis report at the time, but there are some tittle
incidents connected with the hurricane which I did not menticMi.
One of the bravest acts I have ever known was done by one
of our Tongan teachers, named Wiliami. When the masts went
the wrecks^e was kept alongside by the stays and rig^ng, and
as the yards might at any time have knocked a hole in
the ship's side, it was felt to be absolutely necessary that
some of the stays which still held them should be cut, but
the work of doing this was one of very great danger.
Wiliami, however, volunteered, and in the midst of that roaring
hurricane, and in the black darkness, he managed to wade
across the submeiged deck until he reached the fore part of
the ship, where he found that the mainstay, though it had
torn part of the windlass from its position, still held. There
was, however, such a fearful strain upon it that when he struck
it with an axe it snapped like a harp-string, and then everything
else gave way. Many of the bolts were torn out of the side
of the ship. The large iron davits were twisted as if they were
pieces of rope, and every other rope which held the wreckage
was broken, and so the ship was at once relieved of the terrible
weight which was pressing her down under the water. I am
inclined to think that we owed our preservation from terrible
danger to that brave action of the Tongan teacher.

The escape of the chief officer, Mr. Lancaster, was very
wonderful, as he was thrown right away from the ship and s^ain
cast on board by a returning wave. He was a good man and
a very able seaman, and I was very sorry to learn in after
years that he and all on board the ship in which he then was
lost their lives in another hurricane between Fiji and Samoa.

There is another incident which I should like to mention.
I noted it at the time in my journal, and think it may be
interesting as an instance of what is known as unconscious
cerebration. When we were expecting the vessel to go down,
and actually felt her sinking, I stood on the upper steps of ** the
companion-way," just behind the captain, with my hands held
out for the final plunge ; and I well remember the thou|^

332

GEORGE BROWN

which passed through my mind when death seemed to be so
very near. I was not frightened with any physical fear of
death, but felt a kind of nervous anxiety to have it all over
if it was to be. My first thoughts were something like this :
Well, here we are going, and no one will ever know what has
become of the John Wesley ; and I pictured to myself the theories
which would be formed and the inquiries and searches which
would be made when our nonarrival was known. Then,
strange to say, the Chief Justice of Fiji was next very pro-
minently in my thoughts, and I imagined him as feeling some
kind of satisfaction that I had not escaped after all. 1 thought
then of my dear wife and children in Duke of York Island, how
long and anxiously they would wait for our coming, and how
sorry they would be when month after month passed without
our appearing. But, strange to say, I do not remember think-
ing at all of our dear children in Auckland, or of any of our
friends there. This was not, of course, because I loved them
less, but because all my thoughts were or had been principally
and recently connected with the events in the order I have
mentioned. All the.se thoughts occupied but a few moments,
and constitute, I think, an instance of what Dr. Carpenter
calls "unconscious cerebration."

The entries in my diary from December 15 to the date of
our arrival in Sydney I have not published ; but they contain
the records of what was to me one of the saddest and most
painful pen'od.s in my life. I cannot even now think of the
pain which I suffered on account of the selfish duplicity of one
man, and of the almost maddening anxiety which I felt during
those weary weeks for my dear wife and children, without
shuddering as the remembrance comes back to me. Yet, had
I really known the actual facts of the fearful suffering which
was being borne by my wife and by Mr. and Mrs. Danks, it
would have been worse even than it was. I have no desire to
enter into details at present, especially as the man whose
conduct I so much objected to has long since passed away.
I simply give an outline of the facts in justice to myself.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 333

As I have already stated, both the captain and eveiy one
on board said after the hurricane that our best plan was to
go to St. Christoval to get spars and refit, and no one ever
doubted our ability to do so ; but after the calms and light
winds had enabled the crew to effect all the repairs which were
possible, I b^^n to notice a g^reat change, and it was evident
that the captain had suddenly become very lukewarm about
going to the Solomons. After some days had passed I became
very anxious as, though no definite statement was made, it
was quite apparent to all on board that no proper attempt was
being made to reach the Solomons,- but that, on the contrary,
the vessel was being deliberately kept away. I am an old
traveller, and I know well a passenger's proper place on board
a ship. I am perfectly well aware that the captain is the sole
responsible man on board. If he had at once said that he had
changed his mind, and that he meant to go to Australia, and
not attempt to make the Solomons, as he had previously
decided, I could only have lamented the fact, and accepted
the position ; and this I should certainly have done. But I
was sailor enough to know that instead of doing this he was
only pretending to go to St. Christoval, whilst all the time he
was keeping away from it. This fact was well known to all
on board, who laughed at the farce which was being played,
thoi^h we little knew at the time that the farce would end
in a trs^edy at Duke of York Island. I kept a journal of the
whole of the voyage, which I can submit to-day to any nautical
man. In this I noted each day the ship's position, the direction
of the wind, the rate of progress, and the course steered, and
thb will furnish to any competent person full proofs of the
statements which I made. My diary gives abundant evidence
of the anxiety I felt during those weary weeks when we were
drifting towards the Australian coast, but I need only give one
extract, which is as follows : " I sympathise with the captain
in his great desire to get to Sydney, but at the same time I
think that some consideration ought to be shown, not only for
the interests of the MisMon, but for the feelii^ of my own

334

GEORGE BROWN

wife, who has endured so much, and who is now sufTering such
cruel torture from anxiety and fear, and also for Mr. and Mrs.
Danks and teachers, who have been left so long without their
supplies. If there was any necessity for our running au'ay.
if the ship was leaking, or if there was any danger to life, I
should not say a word, but would endeavour to submit patiently
to God's will ; but under our present circumstances I consider
that our going direct to the colonies from here without making
a fair and honest attempt to reach St. Christoval is unjust to
the Society, and cruel and heartless in the extreme to the
missionaries and their wives, as well as to the teachers."

As I am glad to finish the account of this painful incident
I will anticipate the course of my story, and give the results
of the inquiries which were made on the subject. There was
of course great satisfaction felt on the safe arrival of the vessel
in Sydney. The complaints which I made to the General
Secretary were, I believe, considered by the Ship's Committee
at the time, but I do not remember what their findings were.
I have the impression, however, that they simply justified the
captain's action in bringing the vessel to Sydney. I then
requested that the matter should be considered by a number
of nautical experts, and suggested that the Conference should
appoint one, that the captain should appoint another, and that
I myself .should appoint the third. This was done, and I
stated my case, which was simply that I made no complaint
whatever with regard to the captain's seamanship, or against
his judgment in deciding to make the Australian coast rather
than attempt to land us at the Solomons. The fact of the
vessel being safe in Sydney Harbour would of itself have
made it unwise for me to do that The underwriters were
naturally content with the fact that the vessel had arrived
in port, but it is not difficult to imagine what their opinions
would have been, if an accident had happened, on the propriety
of a man leaving a safe port ninety miles to leeward, and
risking the voyage of 1,700 miles across the Coral Sea in a
disabled ship, and with only one damaged boat to contain the

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 335

whole of the passengers and crew. By God's good providence,
however, we had arrived safely, and the only complaint which
I formally made, and which I proved clearly, both from the
official log of the ship and my own journal, was that whilst
the captain was pretending to make the Solomons he was
really doing his best to keep the vessel away, and that he
finally abandoned all pretence, and made the best of his way
to Sydney. I am sorry that I cannot find the report of this
Committee of experts to the Board, but I have a distinct
remembrance that, whilst they exonerated the captain for
coming to Australia, their opinion was that the statements
which I had made were confirmed by those contained in the
official log. It was a decision which was intended to please
both parties, and to set the matter at rest ; and there I
leave it.

We saw Cape Moreton at 8.30 p.m., January 14 ; passed
Smoky Cape on 17th ; signalled Manning River Station on
1 8th, and spoke the City of G raj ton steamer the same day.
On the 19th a steam tug came off from Newcastle, and as "we
were in distress and it would not be right to take advantc^e
of our unfortunate position," the captain very kindly said
he would tow us to Sydney for the small sum of ;^300 !
Our captain offered him ;t5o, which he declined ; but after
waiting for several hours he offered to take us for ^y^. On
our still declining he left us for the night. The steam
tug came out again, but as we had then a fair wind we
declined his assistance, and on, January 23, we arrived in
Sydney.

The late Rev. Shirley W. Baker met me on the wharf, and
informed me that the Conference was just commencing its
sessions. He did not tell me any news about my family,
and I walked with him to the Coffee Palace in George Street,
as he thought I would probably see Rev. R. Chapman, the
General Secretary, there. Just as we were sitting down to
tea some members of the Conference came in, and I received
many congratulations on our safe return. The late Rev.

336

GEORGE BROWN

J. B. Waterhouse came and sat down by my side, and asked
mc if 1 had received any news since my arrival. On my
answering that I had not done so, he said : " I am sorry to
tell you that your little boy in New Britain is dead." " Which
boy ? " 1 asked, for I had left two dear little boys there when
I was brought away ill. Unfortunately Mr. Waterhouse did
not know the name, and I had to wait in great anxiety until
7 p.m., when my brother-in-law, the late Rev. W. Fletcher, B.A.,
came and told me that I should never again see on earth
our dear little Wallis, the strong, sturdy, happy child, whom
I had left in apparent good health a few months before. It
was a great grief to me, not only on account of the loss of
our dear child, but because I knew well how much my dear
wife must have suffered, and how terrible her anxiety must
now be on my account, as she knew of our Iiaving left Fiji, and
that we were due in New Britain in December. I learnt also
that, when the vessel which brought the news of the death
of Wallis left New Britain, another of our children was also
seriously ill. The pain of these sorrowful tidings was intensified
by the knowledge that but for the terrible mistake made in
not landing us at the Solomons I would long ago have been
at home to comfort my dear wife, and to help her in the
care of our little ones. It will be seen afterwards that she
had to bury a second child whilst I was absent. The following
extract from a letter written by Rev. B. Danks from Duke of
York Island^ under date May 29, 1880, gives his account of
the death of our dear child :

" We have passed through no small trouble since my last
by the Dancp. Death has cast a shadow over our home, and
our hearts are sore. Mr. Brown's youngest son, Wallis, has
been taken away from this life, and there is a void in our hearts
and home. Me was such a bright, hearty little fellow, so pretty,
both in appearance and manner, that all who saw him could
not but love him. Mrs. Brown is broken-hearted. I need not
enlarge ujxin her sorrow in order to secure for her the sympathy
of God's people, for I am sure the prayers of all our churches

- i. '

- i;

; I

• ■ 1
5 ! ^

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 337

will go up as diat of one man, that ' the God of all c6mfort '
would ' comfort her in her tribulation/ when they hear of tlUs
sad event You will understand the darkness which has
surrounded us better if I give you an account of the events
as they occurred.

" On Tuesday, September 30, Geoffrey, Mr. Brown's eldest
son here, was taken ill. Fever ran very high, and the poor
boy suffered much. We managed that case very well, and in
a few dajrs he began to recover. On Wednesday, October i,
Wallis became very restless; we could not make out what
was wrong with him, but supposed that teething was the cause,
and treated him accordingly. On Thursday afternoon, as Mrs.
Danks was nursing him, he gave a sudden start, and was at
once seized with convulsions. We did all we could for the
poor child, and at last had the satisfaction of seeing him recover
from the attack. After a few days he seemed to be making
rapid prc^p'ess toward complete recovery. On Friday night
Mrs. Danks was suddenly seized with a fainting fit as she was
nursing Wallis, and I was only just in time to save her from
a severe fall. Fever set in, and for three days and nights she
was continually vomiting, and during all that time she was
in dreadful pain. She is only now beginning to recover strength.
On Wednesday, October 8, 1 was taken ill with fever, and passed
through twenty-four hours of misery. I recovered a little next
day, and thought all was over, but at night it returned in
great strength, and for four days I could get no rest— sick all
the time during the day, and on the verge of delirium at night
There were four of us, and only Mrs. Brown and the Samoan
servants to attend to us, for we were helpless. What a mercy
that Mrs. Brown was not taken ill ! In the midst of all this
care, suddenly, on Sunday morning, October 12, Wallis died.
I will not attempt to describe our house that morning ; enough
to say that we felt no greater calamity could befall us, and
everything seemed dark. We buried him on Monday morning
— a sad task for me, and a heart-rending one for the lonely
mother I"

338

GEORGE BROWN

I received a very kindly welcome from the Conference, and
earnest thanks were given to God for our safe arrival. As
soon as possible I made inquiries for a vessel going to the
Solomons, as I knew there was no possibility of any direct
opportunity to New Britain. I found a small ketch or cutter
called the Lotus was likely to sail soon, and I at once secured
a passage in her for myself, intending to leave the teachers
to be sent on in a larger vessel. As soon, however, as this
was known in the Conference, several members protested very
strongly against my going in such a small craft, and I had
to wait for a larger vessel. Very fortunately, however, we had
not long to wait, and on February 13, 1880, we left Sydney
in the three-masted schooner Avoca, Captain Runcie. The
Avoca was a fairly good ship, and her captain was one of my
old friends, but she was simply an island trading vessel, and
had little or no accommodation for passengers. My berth was
on a deep shelf in the quarter of the ship, and I had to share
it with scores of rats and hundreds of the large cockroaches
which are so plentiful in most vessels which carry copra ; but
poor as it was, I was very thankful to be on my way home
again.

After a fair passage down we sighted Rennel Island on
February 26, at 1 1 a.m., and passed between it and Bellona
Island in the evening. After this we had thick and rainy
weather and did not arrive at Marau Sound until Sunday,
February' 29, just sixteen days out from Sydney. As soon
as we entered we were boarded by Captain Woodhouse of the
auxiliary steam schooner Emu, and soon afterwards by my
old friend Captain Ferguson of the S.S. Ripple^ from both of
whom we had a hearty welcome. Next day, March i, the
weather was still very " dirty " as folks say at sea, and so
Marau did not look very cheerful, though we were heartily
glad to be safe at anchor in its quiet waters. It is really a
splendid harbour. With the exception, however, of the three
vessels and a small village on one of the islands in the leigoon,
there were few signs of life, and even the birds seemed un-

I
I

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 339

wOlii^ to leave their shelter to foce the heavy north-west winds
and rain. Some months previous to our arrival there was a
large village on the western side of the harbour, but the in-
habitants at the time we were there deemed it safer to dwell
far back on the mountains, as they had recently committed
one of the most cruel and unprovoked murders ever committed
in the South Seas, on a quiet old man who had been appointed
to the charge of the trading dep6t established by the firm
of which Captain Feiguson was the island manager. The
chief Washari had been on the most friendly terms for years
with them, and was paid a regular monthly sum to take care
of and protect the trader and the station. On the evening
before the murder. Captain Ferguson landed the trader who
was appointed to take the place of the previous trader, who
was being removed. Nothing at all occurred to excite any
suspicion ; all was quiet and peaceable as it had been for four
years past, since the station was begun ; the chief and people
were to all appearance friendly as they had ever been.
Captain Fei^son asked the chief to look after and protect
both the man and the property as he had always done, received
his assurance that he would do so, and then took his departure
for Sydney with the fullest confidence in the chief and people.
The very next morning that same chief, who had given such
assurances to the captain, accompanied by a man called Alec,
who also was in Captain Ferguson's employ and had received
many favours from him, crossed over to the small island
where the trader was living, chatted with him for awhile, and
then pointed out a canoe which they said was coming to sell
cocoanuts. The man turned his head to look, when he was
at once struck down and murdered, after which they took
away all the trade which they were able to carry, and ruthlessly
destroyed everything which was of no use to them or was
too heavy to be taken away. H.M.S. Dana visited the group
some months afterwards, and an armed party was landed
and proceeded inland to endeavour to capture the murderer^
but did not succeed in doing sa They, however, destroyed

340

GEORGE BROWN

the village, and so thoroughly frightened the people that at the
time of our visit the shores of the harbour were quite deserted.

On the arrival of the small ketch the Lotus, which left
Sydney a few days before us, I made some inquiries as to
the probable date of her sailing, as I was anxious to get away
at once with the teachers to New Britain. When I mentioned
the matter to Captain Ferguson he was much concerned, and
I give his reply, as nearly as I can remember, in his own words.
He said : " Look here, Mr. Brown, I don't at all like the idea
of your going on the Lotus. Wait a few days until I get the
Avoca discharged, and I will run you all up to New Britain
in the steamer. That poor wife of yours must be nearly mad
with anxiety and trouble, and I cannot bear the thought of her
continued sufferings. Wait a few days longer, and we will
all go together as soon as ever I can get away." Needless
to say, I thanked him with a broken voice, but from a full
heart; and as will be seen from the subsequent narrative, he
promptly fulfilled his promise, and conveyed us all to New
Britain free of any expanse to the Missionary Society. When
I was living on Nusa Songa in the Solomon Islands in 1905,
one of the most sacred spots to me on that little island
was that on which stands a small monument erected to the
memory of Captain Ferguson by some of his old companions
and friends. He was murdered, as I shall narrate, by the
natives at Niimanuma on the island of Bougainville.

Whilst we were waiting at Marau I employed my time in
collecting specimens of natural history, and in visiting the
deserted shores of the harbour. Poor Captain Ferguson was
much concerned about this, and often warned me that the
natives were known to be always on the lookout for a white
man to kill, in revenge for the losses which they had sustained
by the action of the ship of war. I, however, felt very little
fear, though I did not, of course, neglect proper precautions.
In fact, I am quite certain that I frightened the natives far
more than they frightened me. I never attempted to hide
our tracks when we went any distance inland, but whenever

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 341

I thought we m^t be followed, I used to tie some oocoanut
leaves across the track, clear a space in the middle of the road,
make a little mound of earth, stick some twig^ in it, and then
put some pieces of paper or bits of cloth on the twigs, t(^ther
with a betel-nut or an old cocoanut, or an3^hing else I could
get, and then pass on. All this was utterly meaningless to
me, but I knew that if the natives saw it they would at once
conclude that it was some form of ''tabu," with dreadful
penalties attached to any infringement of it ; and the fact that
it was new to them, and therefore not intelligible, would only
add to its terrors. Whether it had any effect I do not know ;
but we never saw a native all the time we were at Marau,
though I was out in the bush every day, and they were known
to be about

We left Marau on March 7, but had to return to port again
on the same day, as the wind was strong and the weather
was dirty-looking. We left again on March 9, and on the
next day passed between the islands of Guadalcanar and Savo,
and were fairly on our way again. We called first at Cape
Marsh, on Rossell Island, to purchase yams. The people at
this place were very wild in those days, and great caution
had to be observed in dealing with them. I have often been
asked which was the narrowest escape I have ever had from
being killed by the natives, and I have always replied that
my narrowest escapes were, in my opinion, on occasions when
I myself apprehended no danger at all, or, at all events, when
I saw no signs of it. I have often thought since that I had
one of those escapes at Cape Marsh. Whilst the men were
trading for yams, I strolled away into the bush, and, of course,
I was followed by a crowd of natives, who were always eager
to see what a white man was about to do. These people did
not know me, nor did they know that I was a missionary,
though I do not think this would have affected them in any
way. I shot a few birds, but when I found a fine land-shell

{BuUimu ) I became very anxious to get more sped-

mens» and set the natives to work to look for them, and soon

342

GEORGE BROWN

got a good number. They were highly amused at my folly
in collecting such rubbish, but as I paid them for all they
brought they were well content to profit by my ignorance.
After awhile, however, I began to consider that we were at
least two or three miles from the beach, that I was alone with
a lot of men who bore a very bad character, and I came to
the conclusion that I was acting very foolishly in placing myself
so completely in their power, and soon afterwards I expressed
my satisfaction with the results of our work, and turned back
in the direction of the beach. I kept them, however, fully
employed in hunting for something or other which they thought
1 might like to have, and paid them, of course, for ever)thing
which they brought. We reached the beach again in due time,
much to my satisfaction, and also to the relief of Captain
Ferguson. I cannot say whether the natives ever thought
how easy it would be for them to kill me, and so obtain the
little trade I had with me without any further trouble, but
it is quite certain that those same people killed and ate Captain

S a few weeks afterwards at the same place, though he

never went farther than the beach. I never look at those
shells in my cabinet without thinking that 1 obtained them at
no little risk, The people had been formerly very numerous at
that place, but were even then much decreased in number,
owing to the head-hunting raids of the Ruviana people and
other natives of New Georgia. These Ruviana people were
continually fighting the Guadalcanar natives. They had nearly
depopulated Cape Marsh and other places on Rossell Island ;
Murray Island people had been entirely destroyed by them ;
and the one-time dense population of Ysabel was now repre-
sented only by a few scattered villages. The traders were
unanimous in their desire that the Briti-sh Government should
stop this wholesale murder, and were equally unanimous in
their opinion that the presence of a small ship of war during
the head-hunting season, the punishment of a few ringleaders,
and the confiscation of all canoes captured whilst engaged in a
raid, would soon stop the horrible business.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 343

From Cape Marsh we went to New Georgia, coasting along
the shores of the main island, and around and about the many
lovely islets which stud its beautiful lagoons. We anchored
at Maravo and Ruviana, taking in coab at the latter place for
our last long run at sea. This was my first introduction to
Ruviana, and I was very much impressed then with the
importance of the place as a centre for missionary work in
the Western Solomons. The people, however, were at that
time strongly opposed.^o the introduction of Christianity, and
repeatedly told Captain Ferguson that they would never allow
a missionary to live amongst them. They were a very numerous
and a very powerful race in those days, and were known and
feared by all the adjacent islanders. They were indeed the
Vikings of the Western Solomons, and the sight of a Ruviana
tomako (war canoe) caused fear and consternation whenever
one of them appeared in the neighbourhood of any village on
any of the large islands of the Western Solomons. I preached
to the few white traders, and one of them who heard me, Mr.
F. Wickham, told me twenty-three years afterwards, when I
had the honour of commencing our mission in the Solomons
at Ruviana, that no other sermon had ever been preached
during all those intervening years.

I was much interested with the manners and customs of
the people, and felt quite excited when I heard a word which
reminded me of a similar one in our Eastern Polynesian
dialects, or of one in some of our New Britain dialects. Some
of their customs seemed to be similar to those in Eastern
Polynesia, and others to those which are peculiar to the
Western group. I found also that the geographical area of
our Eastern Polynesian race (or Malayo-Polynesian race, as
it was then called) must be considerably extended, as the
people of the Sikyana, or Stewart's Island, are almost pure
Samoans ; and I met on board the Ripple with men and
women from Lord Howe's Group, and from Al^;arris, or Feads
Islands, who spoke a dialect of the Eastern Polynesian language
— in &ct I could easily understand most of what th^ said, and I

344

GEORGE BROWN

was certain that in a week or so I could have preached to them
in their own dialect. The people on Marqueen Island and
on the Tasman Group are also Eastern Polynesians, and I
was told that Carteret Islands were once inhabited by the
same people, but they had been quite exterminated by the
natives of Bouka Island. I took down a number of words
from the chief of Feads Group, who was on board, and found
that by the observance of certain changes made in some of
the consonants, large numbers of Samoan words could readily
be changed to the language spoken by him. One change
which was very marked was that of the letter "f" to the
aspirate " h," e.g. fale, a house (Samoan), hale, a house (Feads).

We left Ruviana on Tuesday, March i6, and passed
Treasury Island next day at sunset. On Saturday, March 20,
we saw tlie land al Cape St George. I had only fallen asleep
towards daylight, but I was soon awake when Captain Ferguson
came into the cabin and said : " Here's your New Ireland
coast at last, that you've been so long hoping to see."

Next day (Sunday), March 21, we were off Duke of York
Island, close in shore. About 9 a.m. a canoe came off from
Waira, a village about five miles from Port Hunter. I saw
that the teacher was in her, but when they came alongside
I feit so very anxious that I could scarcely muster up courage
enough to go and speak to him, and when I attempted to
speak my mouth was so dry and parched that for some time
I could not utter a word. I asked him at length if all were
well at the mission station, and he said : " Yes, sir, all arc
well." Poor fellow, he looked very ill himself; but he told
me he was well. I soon found out that it was something
else which made him look so pale and ill. I asked then
particularly, " Is Mrs. Brown well ? " " She's well." " Is Mabel
well?" "She's well." "Is Geoffrey well?" "He's well, sir."
" Only Wallis dead ? " " Only he, sir." I went then to Captain
Ferguson, who was anxiously waiting to hear, and told him
gladly ; " 'Tis all right, captain ; there's no worse news ; they're
all right ; only little Wallis gone, as we heard in Sydney,"

i^WB

i^ii^

■^u.

.^^^^^1

CANOE HOUSE. RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS.

Fhoto by Mr. H. P. M. Berr>'.

HOUSES, RUVIANA.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 345

Oh how glad I felt, and how earnestly I looked out tot the
Heads of Port Hunter, hoping to see my dear wife and children
on the verandah in a few minutes. On looking round, however
I saw that the poor teacher, who was still standing by me,
looked pale, and I took him into the cabin and gave him
some brandy and quinine. After a while he said : " I fear,
sir, I have not told you aright about the children. You must
forgive me, but I had not the heart to tell you. I told you
wrong, sir ; I couldn't bear to be the first to tell you, but
I must do so now." "What is it, Mijieli?" I said. "Tell me
all ; tell me quickly ! " " Well, sir, there's only Geoffrey alive."
" What I Is my wife dead ? " " No, sir, she lives ; but Mabel
has gone, and Geoffrey alone is left" Then I knew that I
should never again see our dear little girl in this life, and that
my poor wife had borne another bitter sorrow alone. She
died, I found, on the 12th instant, so that had we arrived here
ten days earlier, I should have been in time to see the dear
girl, and to share the sorrow with my wife, even if not able
to help or save the child.

But there was yet another disappointment for me. We
were in fiill sight of the mission house, and yet no one appeared
on the verandah to welcome us. So I turned again to Mijieli
and said : " But why don't they come out ? Where are they
all, for they can surely see us now ? " Then he said : " I fear
that they have not yet returned from New Britain. Mr. and
Mrs. Danks and Mrs. Brown all went away soon after Mabel
was buried, and the house is empty now. Mrs. Brown could
not stay there, sir, when Mabel was taken away." And so
after all that weary waiting there was no one there to welcome
us back but the Samoans who formed part of our family. We
soon anchored in the old familiar waters, but I felt quite unwilling
to leave the ship, which seemed more like home to me than
any place on shore. After some time Captain Ferguson
accompanied me, and we walked up the hill to the house,
and for the first time, I think, I really felt utterly broken
down, and bq;an to think that our troubles and sufferii^ss

346

GEORGE BROWN

were never going to end. Close by the wayside, on entering
the mission-house grounds, were the two little graves of the
dear children I had left so well and strong. The mortar was
yet wet on the stone-work which was about that in which our
dear little girl was laid. She was born only a few weeks before
I left home in 1875, to commence our Mission here, and now,
as we were nearing the close of this part of our work, she
had passed away. I stood for some time by the graves before
entering the house, sorrowing most for my dear wife, who had
suffered such bitter trials alone. I did not then know how
severe those trials had been, nor how many, and how severe
others had been. The history of those dark days, when Mr.
and Mrs. Danks and my dear wife suffered so much, and
endured all so patiently is all too little known to the world,
but it will not be forgotten. I walked into the empty house,
and I shall never forget how utterly desolate and miserable
I felt as I stood in our bedroom, and saw everywhere the
traces of the painful experiences through which my dear wife
had passed. The room was all untidy, just as it had been
left when the body of our dear child had been carried from
it. Her hat, and, as I vividly remember, a little pink dress
which she wore, were thrown on the floor in one comer of
the room ; the dolls and toys with which they had tried to
amuse her were stilt lying near the bed on which she died.
The medical books over which they pored in vain were still
about ; and on the drawers and table were the medicine
bottles and some powders which Mrs. Brown had prepared for
the dear child an hour or two before she died. I stood
speechless with my great sorrow, until Captain Ferguson came
and, throwing his arms round my neck, said in his old familiar
way, but with deep emotion : ** Come out of this, old man.
This is no place for you. Come away, and I will get up
steam again, and we will go and look for Mrs. Brown." I was
glad to get away, and after looking again at the house and at
the two tittle graves, we went on board the Ripple, 2iud at 10 p.m.
we started for Kabakada, where I expected they had all gone.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 347

On Monday morning, the 33nd, we were off Kabakada,
and were anxiously looking out for them. For some time we
were in doubt, but at last saw some people on the verandah,
and soon after we made out the boat on the beach ; so I knew
that they were there. The boat was soon launched, and was
quickly alongside the vessel, and at last I saw my dear wife,
pale with excitement, and with plain traces in her face of
the effects of her many trials. I cannot describe our meeting
when I led her into the Ripples cabin. For a long time
speech was impossible, and we could only weep together.
We sustained ourselves with the precious words of comfort
from Him who is the Father of mercies and God of all
comfort, and He upheld us in our affliction. Mr. and Mrs.
Danks were looking better than I had expected to find them,
but they had evidently passed through deep waters also. Mrs.
Danks had been very ill indeed toward the close of the previous
year, and even then she was far from being strong and well;
but we hoped she would soon be all right again. The Ripple
left us the same afternoon, after Mr. Danks's goods were landed,
and then we were able to talk together about all that had
been taking place during my absence.

I found that he had been blamed by some of the traders
for the advice which he had given to the natives not to go
in any vessel which was recruiting labour for distant places
far away from their own homes. I had previously given them
the same advice, and Mr. Danks was only following my example,
but as I was absent he had to bear the blame alone. Some of
the teachers had also been behaving foolishly, and had given
him trouble, and so he very gladly welcomed us back to the
work again. My own impressions of the state of the work
I gave in a letter to the General Secretary, and are expressed
in the following extract: "On the whole, I am well pleased
with the state of the district Brother Danks has made very
rapid prepress with the language, and is fully able to do
good work. About his willingness to work I have told you
before, and need not repeat it now. His heart is in his work.

348

GEORGE BROWN

His knowledge of the Duke of York language will be in-
valuable to him in New Britain, in fact, he will have very
little trouble indeed in learning the language, as the idiom
and a large proportion of the words are alike. He reports
that a day or two before our arrival he baptized the New
Britain chief of whom I told you. There are several also
who are waiting to be baptized. The little book in Duke
of York language which 1 sent down from Sydney has been
made good use of, and, rough as it is, has already done good
service. The Sunday is well observed at most of our stations,
especially at Port Hunter, The boys and young men who
have been under Mr. Danks have made good progress, and
several of them can now read portions of the lesson-book and
first catechism in their own language. I have not yet seen
much of the work on any of the out-stations, but all I hear is
as favourable as we can expect."

Soon after the Ripple left us we returned from Kabakada,
and I was very glad indeed that Mr. and Mrs. Danks were
able to accompany us. Our return to our old home was very
painful to my dear wife and myself, but especially to her,
as wherever she went, either in the house or about the station,
there were many reminders of the children we had lost, and
of the other painful experiences of the previous months. My
wife had little or no fever until our little boy died. She
was wonderfully sustained in health during what Mr. Danks
called " those dark days." He told me that they fully believed
that had Mrs. Brown been taken ill they would all have died.
Both Mr. and Mrs. Danks often spoke of some of their painful
experiences during my absence. He said that one night when
Mrs, Brown was nursing her sick child she became very uneasy
about Mrs. Danks, and though she had not heard anything to
excite her fears, and naturally supposed that all in the house
were asleep, she had a powerful impression that she must go
and see how she was. So, leaving the child on the bed, she
determined to go as far as the door of the room which was
occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Danks, and, if necessary, ask if

COAST SCENE, RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 349

they needed help; On her way she found Mrs. Danks l3ring
on the floor in the passage quite helpless, and vainly trying
to make one of the Samoan servants hear her cries. She
had felt herself very ill during the night, and had vainly
tried to awaken her husband, but he himself was almost
unconscious and quite unable to help her. She then slipped
down to the ground, and crept as far as the doorway of the
passage on her way to Mrs. Brown's room, when her strength
utterly failed, and she could neither make herself heard nor
could she get back to her room again ; and in this state Mrs.
Brown found her.

The story of the death of our little boy, as given me by
Mr. Danks, can be given in a few words. He said : " We were
all feeling very anxious one day about Geoflfrey and Wallis,
but could do but little to help. Mrs. Danks was very ill in
one room, poor Geoffrey was tossing about in another room
on the sofa or on the floor. I was lying down weak and ill
on the verandah, and Mrs. Brown was nursing Wallis a few
yards away, when she suddenly called out to me : 'Oh I Mr.
Danks, he is dead.' And so her great sorrow came upon her."
Not many words, 'tis true, but who could write the story in
full? Those were days of trial and sorrow for all that small
party in New Britain, and they were followed by some weary
months of anxiety and dread as day after day and week after
week passed away without the appearance of the long-overdue
mission ship. It was known by them that we had left Fiji
in November, and so were due in New Britain early in
December ; but it was not until near the end of March that
I reached them in the Ripple^ after the conviction had been
forced upon my dear wife that I had been lost at sea, and
after she had been called upon to suffer the loss of our dear
little Mabel. And all the time we were drifting i,8oo miles
towards Sydney, when we might have been landed in a few
days at St Christoval, and I could have reached home from
there in a few weeks at the latest!

One of the saddest stories told me was that of the illness

350

GEORGE BROWN

and death of our dear girl. Often when she was reco\'enng
from an attack of fever she would look out to sea, and then
turn to her mother and cry : " Oh, mamma, why doesn't father
come back to us ? " And all this might have been a%'oided !
I think it is not to be wondered at that I wrote in my letter
to the General Secretary, that " the dispensations of our Father
in heaven, though painful, are easy to bear ; it is the folly and
selfishness of man which are so hard to endure." At the time
I was writing this to Mr. Chapman my colleague, Mr. Danks,
was also writing to him. I did not see the letter until it was
published in our Connexional paper, but I have always felt
grateful for the kindly appreciation and sympathy expressed
in it, and I will close this part of my story by giving an ex-
tract from it. The concluding part of the letter, which I do
not publish in full, contained a strong protest from Mr. Danks
against the action of the Captain of the John IVes/ry, and
gave the opinion of Captain Ferguson, who was at SL
Christoval in the S.S. Ripple at the time, and who would
certainly have seen or heard of the vessel if she were near
the land, and also that of other captains and traders, that
there was no difficulty whatever in reaching St. Christoval ;
that the Ripple^ AvocUy and other vessels were there at the time,
and that there was every facility for putting the John Wesley
in a good seagoing condition, so that she could either have
continued her voyage to Duke of York Island, or transferred
passengers and cargo to another vessel, to be brought on whilst
she returned to Sydney. Mr. Danks in recording his protest
said : "Our provisions had almost all gone, our most important
medicines were all gone, our barter goods were fast coming to
an end, many of our teachers were dragging out a most miser-
able existence, for our stores for them had all been given out,
and most of mine had also gone to them, disease and death

were in our families, whilst Captain sailed i,8oo miles

back to Sydney without making an honest attempt to go lOO
miles, and place himself in a position whence help could
have been sent to us." We all felt deeply hurt at the time,

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 351

and fhov^h the wound has long been healed there is a deep
scar left which time cannot quite obliterate.

The following is the extract from Mr. Danks's letter to the
General Secretary, dated March 29, 1880: "You will be glad
to know of the safe return of Mr. Brown to this, the scene
of his former labours, and of so much sorrow during his absence.
He is looking wonderfully improved, and I trust he will
continue to go on improving. I never thought to see him
here i^[ain when I saw him depart, some eleven months aga
God has been good to us all in sending him back to us,
especially in a fit condition to remain ; for if he could not
have done so, our Mission must have suffered great and, for
some years, at least, irreparable loss. Now that we have him
back i^ain, I trust in a few months to have a copy of one
of the Gospeb, at least, in our hands written in the Duke of
York language.

** On Mr. Brown's arrival at Duke of York he found us all
at New Britain, where we had gone to get away, if only for
a ^ort time, from the scene of so much sorrow and affliction.
Sad indeed must have been the thoughts and feelings of our
dear brother as he stood beside the graves of his two little
children, and there tried to form some estimate of the dark,
dark days which his wife must have passed through during
his absence. When I speak of those days I must ever speak
of them as the dark days of my mission life, for I cannot
conceive it possible to have more trouble and more darkness
than we had then. It seemed to us as though the very
heavens were closed against our cries of agony, and that we
were left alone in our misery. Whoever undertakes to write
the history of our Mission here will fail to fulfil his task if he
does not give to the world the story of poor Mrs. Brown's
trouble, and her Christian patience and faith while passing
through such deep waters. And I wish the world to know
how that, when niu-sing her dear little boy Wallis, expecting
him to die every moment, she had still a kindly word of
encouragement for me, 'as I lay on the sofa too weak to move

352

GEORGE BROWN

myself, and expecting every moment to hear of my wife's
death. I well remember that morning, for one of our teachers
had just returned from New Britain bringing with him two
other teachers, who were also at death's door. He sat on the
floor close to my side, and the tears came into his eyes as
he looked at me lying there so helpless ; and when he told me
of the state of the two teachers he had brought across, I
could stand it no longer, but burst out into an agony of tears,
and felt utterly desolate. I am not given to crying, but I
don't think anybody will ch.-irge me with unmanliness for
so doing, if it be remembered how that one of Mrs. Brown's
children was at the point of death, another seriously ill,
Mrs. Danks in a semi-conscious state, and myself unable
to get about. In the midst of all this Mrs. Brown moved
about the house supplying all our bodily wants, and gixnng
words of comfort even when her own load was too heavy
to carry. If we had been without her assistance some one would
have had to record, if not the death of either Mrs. Danks or
myself, a very prolonged illness, which would have necessitated
our removal from this very interesting field of labour.

" No one can po.ssibly know the desolation of our house
after the departure of WalHs. My heart ached for poor Mrs,
Brown> as she went about the house with tearful eyes and
stooping gait, as though the inward burden was exercising not
only a mental, but a physical influence upon her. When she
went upstairs and locked the store-room door, we knew what it
was for — that she might weep in silence over the dear departed
one. As she walked outside in the cool of the evening we
knew why she did so — that she might weep at the little one's
grave. As our heads bowed in prayer, the tear unbidden would
flow ; and thus for months. We were at last beginning to get
over that, when this last affliction came, which has again made
a gap in Mr. Brown's family. On February 2 Mabel was
taken ill with low continued fever. For fourteen days she
lived on, undergoing great pain, and gradually getting weaker
and weaker. She ate nothing worth speaking of all that time.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 353

and was reduced to a mere skeleton. On the fifteenth day the
complaint suddenly changed or merged into a lung or throat
disease, which terminated in death on the nth instant. We
buried her next day by the side of Wallis, who that very day
five months previously had departed this life.

" We could not remain on Duke of York any longer. We
all felt the necessity of a change, especially as Mrs. Danks was
still weak from a prolonged attack of fever, which had lasted
over fourteen days ; Geoffrey also was going about the house
pale and sickly looking ; and I myself had had another good
shaking. So we determined to make a tour of all the New
Britain stations. On our first day out Mrs. Danks was very ill
indeed, and I thought of turning back, but as she was much
better by next morning we pushed on from the uninhabited
island of Palakuuru, where we passed the night, and about nine
o'clock reached the house of our own catechist who is stationed
at Kininigunan.

"We reached Kabakada on Saturday afternoon, and in-
tended to remain there till the following Wednesday, and then
start back for Duke of York, so as to be home for Good Friday.
' Man proposes, but God disposes,' is a well-known saying, but
none the less true on that account. Little did we think of
seeing Mr. Brown at Kabakada on the following Monday
morning ; but we did. ... I pass over our meeting on board
the S.S. Ripple ; it is too hallowed, too sacred, too full of joy
and sorrow to attempt to expose it to the world's gaze. The
deck of the busy, smart Ripple will have associated with it in
my mind one of the most painful, yet the most comforting
scenes it has been my lot to witness — the meeting of man and
wife after such a separation as that of Mr. and Mrs. Brown.
May they long live to be a comfort to each other, and a
blessing to the thousands around them, who have need of their
sympathetic and earnest labours."

On Wednesday, March 31, 1880, just ten days after my

354

GEORGE BROWN

return, and two days after the Ripple had left us for Meoko
(Port Wesley) we were surprised by the arrival of one of our
teachers from New Ireland, bringing with him three men who
had arrived on his station at Topaia in a destitute condition
endeavouring to make their way to Port Hunter. These men
reported to us the arrival of a large colonising expedition at
Likiliki, about twelve miles round Cape St. George, some few
weeks previously. They told us that there was a large number
of men there, nearly all of whom were ill with fever and in a
very destitute condition. I ordered my boat to be got ready,
and we determined to go at once and ascertain what were
the real facts of the ca5e. Though Likiliki was more than one
hundred miles away from Port Hunter, and neither Mr. Danks
nor I was in a very good condition for taking such a journey,
we started in about an hour after receiving the news. On our
W3y across the channel we boarded a German schooner, and
reported the matter to Mr. Blohm, who promised to render
any assistance he was able to if I would report to him on
my return. In the far distance we saw, much to our disappomt-
ment, the steamer Ripple, apparently heading directly for the
Solomons, and we felt very sorry indeed that wc had not been
able to intercept her. We had a very heavy pull under a
blazing hot sun, without a breath of wind to help us. I deeply
pitied the poor teachers, who were quite exhausted with the
heavy work of pulling the boat in the fearful heat. We were
all glad indeed to get on shore on the New Ireland coast about
sunset I said nothing to the men until they had rested for
an hour or two, and had been refreshed by a good supper, but
I felt very anxious to get on our journey, and so I told them
that we were almost certain to have a strong land breeze after
the great heat of the day; that they could sleep as well in the
boat as on shore ; and that we would steer the boat when the
breeze came whilst they got their much-needed rest This they
consented to do ; and as I predicted, we got a fine breeze off
the land, which enabled us to lay right along the coast. Mr.
Danks and I steered the most of the night, and at daylight.

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THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 355

to our great joy, we saw the Rtfflt only a few miles ahead of
us. We concluded at once that Captain Ferguson had called
at Port Carteret, and had heard of the settlement, and was
on his way back to Port Hunter to inform us of it When we
got on board, however, we found that he knew nothing whatever
of it, and was very much surprised when I told him. He said
that he had gone into Port Carteret the night before, but the
natives appeared to be so excited that he deemed it best to go
outside again and wait until daylight This he did, and when
he saw our boat he thought that some one was sick, and kindly
waited for us. As soon as we were on board he took the boat
in tow, and we steamed into Port Carteret Soon after we
entered we met a boat belonging to the German firm, in which
were Captain McLaughlin and several sick men, who were on
their way to our station at Duke of York. It was very sad
indeed to see the deplorable condition in which some of these
poor men were, and it was an exciting time when they were
lifted on board, where Captain Ferguson attended to them with
his usual kindness. From Captain McLaughlin we learned the
following particulars.

The ship Chandemagore, Captain Jos Seykens, left the port
of Flushing on September 14, 1879, called at the Cape de Verde
Islands October 3, sighted Louisiade Islands January i, landed
seventeen colonists, in charge of M. Charles Noetinger, at the
Laughlin Islands, with provisions for three months. The
author of the expedition was Charles du Breil, Marquis de Rays,
the scheme having for its object the founding of a free colony,
under the name of " Free Colony of Port Breton," including the
archipelago of New Britain and the Solomon Islands, as well
as that part of New Guinea unoccupied by the Dutch. They
arrived at Port Praslin on January 16, and from there went round
to a bay near Cape Bougainville about February i. The ship
departed suddenly without notice, February 20, leaving some
stores, but no medicine. The Major Commandant of the
colony, M. de la Croix, left with her. Sickness soon broke
out One man died; »x more left by stealth in a boat on

356

GEORGE BROWN

February 29, and had not been heard of. Towards the nniddle
of March nearly the whole of the party were sick with fever
and bad sores, and in this deplorable condition we found thenu
Just before reaching the place, we met another party of three
men, who had left in a small canoe, preferring to risk the long
voyage, and the danger from natives on the way, rather than
remain any longer there. We had to anchor for the night
before proceeding to the settlement.

I well remember some of the incidents of that night. The
cruel scorching that we had received in the boat during the
day, followed as it was by the heavy dew-laden and cold land-
breeze during the night, had brought on a most violent attack
of elephantiasis, and I was utterly unable to move. Captains
Ferguson and McLaughlin were both educated men, and they
passed a great part of the night in discussing Herbert Spencer's
Siudy 0/ Sodo/ogy, vfh'ich. had recently been published. I never
see the book now without thinking of that night, for when I
was tossing about half delirious with fever each time I woke
I would hear the discussion on the educational bias, the bias
of patriotism, the class bias, the political bias, the theological
bias ; and the headings of these chapters have ever since been
associated in my mind with one of the most violent attacks of
elephantiasis that I ever experienced. Next day we were on
our way very early, ai\d after rounding Cape St. George we
went on to the bay of Likiliki, about ten or twelve miles on
the eastern shore of New Ireland. I was not able to go on
shore, but Mr. Danks went, and saw the men, and received their
earnest entreaties to be taken away at once to some place where
proper food and medicine could be given to them, 1 realised
the difficulty of my position in interfering with any scheme
of settlement, but at the same time I felt that unless something
was done many of the men would die ; and it was absolutely
certain that there would have been very serious trouble as soon
as we left them. I stated these difficulties to Captains Ferguson
and McLaughlin, and also to the men, telling them that I could
only grant theJr request on the ground of humanity, and by

I
I

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 357

their own written petition to me to do so, and further, that I
could only g^rant their request if the officer in command also
asked me to do so. They at once prepared the following
petition :

"To THE Rev. George Brown,

" Superintendent of the Wesieyan Australasian Missions

at Port Hunter.
"Sir,—

"We, the undersigned colonists at Likiliki, being in

the utmost distress from fever and want of proper medicine

and nourishment, b^ you to use your influence to have U8

transported to a place where we can be sheltered and property

taken care of. We severally promise to submit to all the rules

and regulations of your establishment, and to act as honourable

men while under your guidance and care." This was signed

by forty of the colonists.

I also received another letter from Captain McLaughlin, aa

follows :

"Rev. Mr. George Brown,
" Sir,—
" All these men having already intimated to me by a
signed paper their desire to leave Likiliki by any route to join
your establishment, from the motives stated in their prayer to
you, and in which I am obliged to concur, I thank you In
advance in the name of humanity for any aid and assistance
you may be able to give them.

"Captain McLaughlin.

" LiKiUKi, April 2, 1880."

After receiving this I arranged that Captain Ferguson should
convey the party to our station at Port Hunter, which he very
kindly consented to do, at some personal inconvenience and
loss. The only recompense he received was a number of rifles
which the sick men had, and which were of no further use to
them. Indeed we were very glad to get them away from them.
Mr. Danks told me that it was really piteous to see the eager

358

GEORGE BROWN

way in which the poor men almost rushed the boat, so much
were they afraid of being left behind.

We arrived in Port Hunter at midnight, but I was not able
to land until daylight, when I was carried up to the house,
where I made another good resolution to take great care and
avoid all unnecessary exposure in future. I felt, however, no
condemnation for our action in tliis instance, as the necessity
was very great and we were perfectly justified in incurring the
risk, I suffered severely from the strain and exposure. One
of the poor men that we brought back died the day after
landing. We had then forty-one in all, and knew that we
should have no little difficulty in supplying their wants if their
expected vessel was long in coming. Captain Ferguson very
kindly left some stores for them, Captain McLaughlin put
on board some biscuits, pork, cheese, and a few other things,
and Mr. Blohm, a few days later, forwarded some very
acceptable supplies.

The following list of names was supplied to me whilst the
men were residing at Port Hunter : Schulz, Tetzlaff — these two
went to Mr. Kleinshmidt. De Nassau, Buch, Gasser — these
three went in German steamer. Jerome Semeriva (?), Leroux,
Lemeure, Car, Vincent — these five went with Mr. Embleton.
Krause, Grandry, Bocquet, Hervais, Vorndran, Eck, Caul,
Furtz, Urban, Erbslande, Diedrich, Hoberg, De Lavour, De
Lavande, Joseph Bricanne, Horneck, Lemelle, Lourdeaux, Bret,
Strevenard, Douchct, Becker, Scheurmann, Lachet, Mangny,
Kaisen, Chauvaux, Schaeff, Coenen, Brandt, Benninger,
Schocsler, Glachet, Gervais, Kurmilla, Muret, Binz, Canals, of
these Krause died on April 4, Urban and Grandy on May 2,
De Lavande and Hoberg on May 4, Erbslande on May 14, and
Lourdeaux on May 18.

In this list I do not find the names of Brunois, Johan

Malmgrene (?), Mr. Schmit (?) and Le , who signed the

petition for removal.

Our first work was to build houses for the men, and in this
1 naturally expected to receive some assistance from the able-

bodied immigrants, but
They were quite dispirited,
union or spirit of
work had to be done by
employed and paid. A br^
unable to work. They
malarious dysentery. Many of
clothes to the natives fcr food
of those who were sick
condition, and some of them half

sights at this time which wifl

One man swam out to sea aad trial to

sent a canoe after him and bmwght baa»

had secured a case of spirits from Capfafn

to go round amongst the sick,]

together with a little stimalaiit,

in most cases. I tried to get some of tbe nea to xt

but with very little success, and at last «e bad to get tike wont

cases up to our own grounds, and erect

for them, where they were fed from our

no little tax upon Mrs. Brown, and afao i
gave special supplies to any one wiu
upon the sick, but most of the oKn
the food which was provided fer !
clothes

360

GEORGE BROWN

When our stock of biscuits got very low I told them that, as
I had only one tin left, I purposed keeping that for those who
were sick, and that I should not be able to give any regular
allowance of biscuits until our supplies were replenished from
Sydney. We took very good care, however, that they were
abundantly supplied with good native food, together with the
articles I have already mentioned. The day after I had made
the announcement that no more biscuits could be supplied, one
of the men came up as usual for the supply, and on my telling
him that there were no more biscuits available he became some-
what impertinent, and told me that he must have biscuits, or he
would die. This made me very indignant, and I spoke my
mind to him very freely indeed. I told him that the best thing
he could do was to go away and die as soon as possible, for he
did not appear to me to be of much use in the world, and that
a man who in the possession of good health and strength could
be so indifferent to the necessities of his sick comrades deserved
very little consideration from us. As soon as he had gone I
sent down for the officer in charge, Mr. Brandt, and told hira
that he was to gather the men together, and tell them that they
were to get ready and we would take them all back to Likiliki
on the following morning. On his inquiring the reason for this
action I told him of the request which had just been made to
me, and asked him to tell the men that as I presumed the
messenger whom they had sent had fairly represented their
wishes, there was no other course open for me, as I had no more
biscuits, and I did not wish them all to die on my hands. Mr.
Brandt went down and reported this, and in a short time after-
wards I had to go down and intercede for the messenger, as
they were preparing to inflict summary punishment upon him.
They positively refused to go away, and promised again that
there should be no further trouble.

I cannot give in full detail a proper account of the sad
deaths which I witnessed. We did all that we possibly could
for those who were sick, but some of the cases were too far
advanced for any effective help. It was very sad to hear their

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 361

complaints and cries. "Ohl mother, mother, my mother!"
was the pathetic moan of one poor man whom we thought to
be dying. We removed him to the Mission premises, and the
poor lad got well ; so I hope he saw his much-loved mother again.
The poor little man who tried to drown himself was always
talking about his brother, and calling out for him to come.
He saw Mr. Danks one day, and at once threw his arms round
him and cried that he had at last found his brother again. But
the most dreadful sight I ever saw was the death of one of these
unfortunate men. We placed him in one of the cottage
hospitals in our own grounds, in which we made two bedsteads,
which were carefully covered with fresh dried leaves every day.
On each morning he had to be lifted from one bedstead to the
other, and the leaves on which he had slept taken out and
burned, and then replaced with a fresh lot ; and the same plan
had to be pursued each evening. He was in a most dreadful
condition, and I cannot possibly give the details. When I saw
that he was near death I sent down to Mr. Brandt, and told him
that he was to appoint two men to sit with this poor man
during the night. I said that he was not to ask for volunteers
again, but simply to make the appointment, and that if the men
did not come, I should not issue any more stores. When the
men whom he had appointed came up, I took them into the
study, and spoke very kindly to them, and asked them to watch
over the poor man in his last hours. I gave them pipes and
tobacco and kerosene lamps, and some other things, and they
promised faithfully that they would remain with the man all
night Next morning they told me that he was dead, and I
went down to see him. It is utterly impossible for me to tell
what I saw. I had to take some strong carbolic disinfectant
with me before any one would enter the hut, and we had to make
a special basket before the body could be carried away for
burial.

There is one little serio-comic incident which I must relate
here. Whilst the men were still with us, living in this state of
destitution and sickness, the captain in charge received instruc-

362

GEORGE BROWN

tions from France, which were opened and read on our verandah.
These letters contained, amongst other things, elaborate direc-
tions as to how he was to lay out the future city of this colony.
He was told to set aside a portion for the " noblesse," another
portion for the " bourgeois," and another for the " ouvriers." He
was also directed to select a suitable site for barracks for the
" gendarmes ", and definite instructions were given as to the size
and locality of site on which the cathedral was to be erected.
These instructions were read to us, with the lands which were
to be so used still covered with wild jungle just in front of us,
and whilst the men we had rescued in such a sad state of destitu-
tion and misery were still on the premises. I contented myself
with asking the captain to reserve for me a corner lot in the
" noblesse " quarter ; and this he promised to do.

H.M.S. Conflict arrived at Duke of York on May 22, 1880.
She had called at the settlement on New Ireland on her way,
and Captain McLaughlin, the officer in charge there, came on
in her as passenger to Port Hunter. Captain Bower came on
shore immediately on his arrival, and interviewed the immigrants
who were with us. Captain McLaughlin being also present.
The men stated that they wished to be taken to Sydney, or
to be employed by one of the traders. In the event of
neither of these schemes being practicable, then their desire was
to remain where they were ; but they refused to go back to the
colony. It was represented to them that they could not stay at
Port Hunter to depend upon us for supplies, now that provisionsi
etc., were at Likiliki, having, I presumed, been brought there by
the schooner Etnilie ; and that they must either go there or
be prepared to shift for themselves. Next day at sunrise
Captain Bower went to New Britain in our steam launch, to
consult with Mr. Hernsheim, the German Consul in that group,
On our return to Duke of York the men were again mustered ;
those of them who had got employment were left behind ; the
others were taken on board the Pacific by Captain Hernsheim
and landed again at Likiliki. The houses were fired, and so
ended that part of this episode in our mission life here.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 363

We heard that the Emilie had called on her way to New
Ireland at the Laughlin Islands, where the first party were left,
and found that out of seventeen men left there by the Cftan-
danagore, seven had died ; so that they also had great
troubles.

On July 18 I left Port Hunter in the S.S. Ripple, Captain
Ferguson having kindly offered to tow my whale-boat as far as
the settlement at Metlik (Likiliki), on his way to the Solomons ;
and by this means I was able again to visit the colonists, and
also our mission stations on New Ireland, with comparative
ease. We arrived at Metlik on the 19th, and found the colonists
in great distress, and very anxious to be removed. Captain
McLaughlin and Captain Ferguson made some arrangements
for their removal ; and as Captain McLaughlin and I said good-
bye to our old friend Ferguson as the Ripple steamed out, I
received again his assurance to tell the poor fellows on shore
that in three weeks' time he would be back again, and would
take them all to Sydney. It was, as I shall narrate a little
further on, in hastening back to fulfil this promise that he was
killed.

The colonists, I found, had erected a large block house and
several other buildings, but little or nothing had been done in
the way of cultivation or of making provision for the supply of
their wants. There were abundant evidences in the settlement
of the great preparations which had been made in France for
the success of the expedition. A large steam boiler and fireplace
were on the beach, together with a great quantity of bricks,
which were intended, I believe, to be used in the foundations of
the cathedral which they purposed building. They had also the
machinery for sugar refining, a steam crane, incubators, a saw-
mill, and agricultural implements ; but it was evident that there
had been great carelessness either in shipping the material or in
landing it, as they had cases of knife handles without any blades,
and a number of wheelbarrows, but no wheels. They had
scarcely any axes, and the few spades with which they were
supplied appeared to be of the worst possible material. They

364

GEORGE BROWN

had no quinine and few other medicines. I have read in the
accounts of the subsequent trial in France statements which were
certainly not correct with regard to the island. It was described
as "an abomination of desolation — that there was nothing to dis-
tinguish it from the merest rock rising out of the ocean ; that
there was absolutely no soil to cultivate, the little there was of
any depth being at the bottom of deep ravines and fissures in the
rocks, whence most of the vegetation springs ; that the few head
of cattle which they were able to bring witli them could find
no pasturage, and had to be fed while they h'ved with branches
cut from the trees ; that the barrenness of the soil was alone
sufficient to take all heart out of the colonists, seeing that
starvation stared them in the face ; and that malaria came as a
deliverance to many by putting them out of their misery." This
is all fanciful, as a short visit to any part of New Ireland will
easily prove. The land, instead of being a mere rock, is covered
with splendid forest trees, and the soil will grow yams, taro,
bananas, sweet potatoes, and any tropical fruits which may be
planted in it. The fact is that the people were disheartened
from the very commencement, and even before the Chandanagore
left, Captain McLaughlin, in one of his letters to the captain
of that vessel said : " I have an ugly time of it ; more than one
half of my men are laid up with sore feet, and the other half
with laziness." It is only fair, however, to say that the latter
part of this description did not apply, so far as my experience
went, to some of the men, as 1 found them quite willing to do
anything that they could. Perhaps it will be well here to give a
rhume of the history of this unfortunate expedition.

it was organised mainly by the energy and enterprise
evinced by the Marqui.s de Rays, who, at his own expense, fitted
out and equipped the barque Cluindanagore. She was purchased
for the expedition in Havre, and it was intended that the
immigrants, who were of mixed nationalities, should embark at
that place for their destination. The French Government,
however, refused to countenance the movement, and the
vessel cleared out of Havre for Fort Breton vi& Antwerp. The

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 365

Belgian Government however, also declined to ' allow the
emigrants to embark at Antwerp, and the vessel was then
taken to Vlissingen, a seaport about forty miles below Antwerp.
She finally sailed from there on September 14, with a party
of eighty-two men, who were under the chaige of Captain
McLaughlin, an American. This number consisted of forty
Germans, twenty-five Frenchmen, six Belgians, eleven Swiss,
and other nationalities. M. de la Croix, the representative of
the Marquis, was in charge, and they, as I have already mentioned,
landed at New Ireland on January 16, 1880. I first saw them
after the Chandanagore had left for Sydney, and I then stated
that, in my opinion, those who were in charge of that vessel
incurred a very serious responsibility in going away as they did,
and leaving the poor men almost without tools, and without a
single ounce of quinine or any other medicine. The excuse
made was that the anchor had " carried away " ; but even if this
were so, they could still have communicated with the shore, and
have landed some of the most necessary stores. After the men
came on our station nearly a month passed without a death,
but afterwards several of our patients succumbed to the diseases
which affected them. In nearly every case the ulcers were
getting well, and the fever was controlled, but the dysentery
so weakened the system that they could not rally. Nearly
every man had fever, and our large stock of quinine was
nearly all used. Seven men died at our station at Port
Hunter.

I wrote at the time as follows : " Marquis de Rays, and
those who have carried out this mad scheme, have incurred
a very heavy responsibility indeed. They have begun the
venture without having any proper conception of the nature
of the work, or of the difficulties to be encountered. No good
judgment whatever has been exercised as to the suitability
of the place, which seems to have been selected in some
drawing-room in France, whilst looking over an old book of
Bougainville's travels. The people brought out are, as r^ards
the greater portion of them, most unsuitable men for colonists,

366

GEORGE BROWN

and no proper care was taken to have them supplied with tools
or medicine, from the want of which they have sufTered so
much.

" As to the colony, I am quite satisfied that they never
will succeed in establishing one such as Marquis dc Rays
desires in the place they have selected here ; and unless better
judgment is exercised in the selection of the colonists they will
never succeed anywhere. The men are from all countries
and have no common bond of union, and from the beginning
they seem to have had little or no interest in the aflfair. They
have been good and welt-bchaved here, and have always shown
us the greatest respect; but there is no esprit de corps amongst
themselves, and it has been with the greatest difficulty that
we have succeeded in getting the most necessary attention
paid to the sick and dying ones amongst them,"

On Friday, August 27, we were startled by the sound of
a steamer's whistle in the channel, but we could not make
out the flag under which she was sailing. However, I got
my boat afloat as soon as possible and went out to her, when
we found that it was the Genii, Captain Rabardy, and that the
flag was that of Liberia ; so there was some excuse for our
ignorance with regard to the nationality of the vessel. As
soon as I began to mention the difficulties under which the
colonists at Metlik were placed, Captain Rabardy stopped me,
and led me to his cabin, as he evidently did not wish any
of the people on board to hear the communication which I
had to make. After I had told him he accompanied us on
shore, leaving the steamer in the channel. We had a long
talk about the state of the people, and he was very much
distressed indeed at the account which I gave him of their
sufferings and of the deaths which had taken place. He
told me that another large vessel was following him almost
immediately, and that she would bring several ladies, together
with horses, carriages, dogs for hunting, etc., etc. On our way
down to the boat I took him to the place where we had buried

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 367

the men who died wUHst they were with ns in Port Hunter. I
do not think I ever saw such a sudden change a>me over any
man as I saw in Captain Rabardy, when I pointed out the
spot where some of the unfortunate members of the expedition
were buried. He had been talking quite cheerfully and in an
excited way about the prospects of the colony; but as soon
as he heard what I was saying he stopped, and uncovered
his head, and after a short interval of silence threw his arms
around me, and saluted me on both cheeks, whilst he thanked
me for the kindness which we had been privileged to show to
his distressed comrades. We heard some time after he left
us that the Via<fr sailed on September i for Sydney with the
survivors of the first party.

During the remainder of my stay in the group we had
several opportunities of seeing members of the expedition when
they came to Duke of York Island, but I did not visit them
again until November, after the arrival of the Imiia. The
settlement had in the meantime been removed to the west
coast, and located in what are known as English and Irish
Coves. I left on November 11, and reached Lamasa to break-
fast after a very fine passage, and got to Irish Cove at i p.m.,
where I was very courteously received by Commander Lc
Frevost and all on board the India. I found her to be a
large steamer, and very snugly anchored in Irish Cove. I spent
some time on board, but after dinner went on board the Gently
Captain Rabardy, and slept there. Next day I walked about the
settlement, and took a number of photographs. The number
of immigrants was much larger than on my previous visit,
many of them being Italians. Several small plantations
had been already begun, and good progress had been
made during the month they had been located at this place.
A large block hoAse was in course of erection. There was
an abundance of fine water, both river and spring ; but the
impression made on my mind was that, whilst the place might
do very well indeed as a depdt, it was no fit place for a large
colony. There were numbers of women and children amongst

368

GEORGE BROWN

the later immigrants, and they were certainly doing their full
share of the hard work necessary in clearing the dense scnib
around them. I left for Port Hunter again in the evening.
I have no further details of my own to give in connection
with this expedition, but its subsequent history may be briefly
mentioned.

The next vessel to arrive at the colony after the Genii and
the India was the La Nouvelle Bretagne, which vessel left in
the spring of i88i with about a hundred and fifty immigrants
on board. On reaching Pointe de Galle, Captain Henri received
a telegram from the Marquis stating that enemies and traitors
by whom he was surrounded had placed him in an embarrassing
position with regard to the enterprise, but he hoped he would
obtain the upper hand of them. At Singapore the captain
found another telegram awaiting him, nominating him pro-
visionary governor of Port Bretagne, and instructing him to
divest Captain Rabardy of the command of the Geml in favour
of one Coll, a Spanish subject. Henri's suspicions concerning
the business in which he was employed were fairly aroused,
and instead of carrying out his orders, he took counsel with
Rabardy on his arrival at Port Bretagne as to what they
had better do. Rabardy satisfied Henri that he could not
be dismissed, inasmuch as neither he nor his crew had received
any payment for their services, nor had the vessel been
purchased. The Marquis had undertaken to send out provisions
and money, but nothing of the kind had been despatched.
Captain Henri had no alternative but to aggravate the situation
by landing his fresh batch of emigrants. But, filled with pity
at the condition of these unfortunate people, and after taking
counsel with Captain Rabardy, he decided to steam to Manila
to obtain succour. His coal being exhausted, trees had to be
cut down to supply fuel for the fires. He left the island on
September i6. At Manila fresh perplexity awaited him. An
embargo was laid upon the steamer by one of the Marquis's
creditors. The vessel was seized by the authorities in Manila,
and the firemen taken out of her, as well as an important piece

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 369

of her madiineiy. A few days after this there were s^;n8 of a
t3rphoon coming on> so the authorities replaced the piece of
machinery, and put six officers in charge of the vessel. Henri
telegraphed to the Marquis, and received a reply ordering him to
sell the vessel and satisfy the claim. Henri, however, whose kind
and manly conduct did much to relieve the gloom of this sad
history, thought of the starving wretches at Port Breton ; and,
having put provisions on board before the embargo was declared,
he took advantz^e of the storm, slipped his anchor and steamed
away, landing the six officers forty miles off, and made the best
of his way to New Ireland. He reached his destination on
January i, 1881, but was closely followed by another steamer,
the La Gaspe, manned by a Spanish man-of-war crew, on
January 12. This vessel had- been sent in pursuit of the
runaway La Nouvelk Bretagne. It arrived too late, however, to
stop the provisions being landed. The inhabitants had by that
time been reduced to a still more deplorable condition, for
it was three months since Captain Henri left to obtain relief.
He submitted himself a prisoner to the Spaniards, but before
starting again for Manila, on January 20, in tow of the
La GaspCy he took on board a large number of the surviving
colonists. He was tried at Manila on the charge of violating
the embargo, and also of having carried away some carbineers
who had been placed "in possession" of the vessel. It is
certain that Captain Henri had no motive for stealing the
carbineers ; he even took the first opportunity that presented
itself for putting them ashore ; but his conduct in taking these
representatives of authority away with him when he slipped
anchor appeared most outrageous to the officials, and, although
he was acquitted on the first count in consideration of his
philanthropic motive, in defiance of all logical sequence he was
convicted on others, and sent to prison.

On February 13 all the colonists arrived at Meoko (Port
Wesley; in the S.S. Genii and the Marquis de Rays, en route for
Sydney. I was not then in the group, but Rev. B. Danks,
who was in charge of the Mission, attended a meeting of

370

GEORGE BROWN

the colonists at Meoko, at the request of Captain Rabardy,
but nothing definite was done. On February 14 Captain
Rabardy was unwell, and on the evening of the fifteenth he died
very suddenly. Soon after this event the Genii sailed for
Sydney with the survivors of this ill-fated colony. They
reached Noumea in a starving condition, and were brought
to Sydney at the expense of the Government of New Caledonia,
by the A.S. Co.'s steamer James Patteson, which arrived in
Sydney on Friday, April 7, 1881. A number of the immigrants
obtained engagements in New South Wales at a fair rate of
wages. At a subsequent date, grants of land were made to
many of them, and they founded the settlement of New Italy,
between the Clarence and Richmond rivers, where they and
their descendants now live

One of the best friends I ever had amongst the South Sea

Island traders — and I knew most of them in the early days —

was Captain Alexander McKenzie Ferguson. I first met him in

Sydney in 1875, as we were preparing to sail on our first

voyage to New Britain. He was at that time almost the only

man in Sydney who could give us any trustworthy information

about the New Britain Group, which we intended to visit, as he

had called there on some of his trading voyages. When I told

him of our intention, and that I purposed settling first on Duke

of York Island, he told me that it was in his opinion the very

best place we could have selected in the group, and that he

would very gladly do all that was in his power to help us.

I found him to be a very intelligent man, and he was certainly

very patient with me in the numerous inquiries which I made.

He made no secret of his opinion that we should have many

difficulties to encounter in our first intercourse witli the people

on the mainland, but he thought that with ordinary care and

prudence we might live on Duke of York for awhile with

comparative safety. He had a lad from that island on board

the vessel, and he very kindly offered him to us, as he might

probably be useful to us on our arrival The lad was called Teem,

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 371

and we took him witb us on our voyage. He gave me many
words on our way down, and would probably have been useful
to us in the group, but unfortunately he was murdered about
three weeks after our arrival. Captain Ferguson advised me as
to the best kind of trade to take with us, and informed me
that he would give instruction to all in his employ to help
lis in every possible way, should they visit the island in which
we hoped to locate.

This was the beginning of a friendship which continued to
the time of his death in 1880. He was a native of Glasgow, and
was first engaged in commercial pursuits, but soon left to seek
his fortune in Queensland. He then went to Sydney, and found
clerical occupation with Messrs. O'Dowd & Co., commission
agents. In 1872 he went several voyages to the Solomons,
and on the last voyage had a very narrow escape from death, as
the Marian Rennie, the vessel in which he was engaged, was
captured by the natives of Rendova, in the Ruviana Group, and
Captain Delany and all hands were murdered. This tragedy
was enacted only a few miles away from the place where our
mission to the Solomons was commenced by me in 1902.
Mr. Ferguson escaped the fate of all his brother shipmates by
having been landed at Makira Harbour, St. Christoval, to trade
with the natives, whilst the vessel went farther west He was
rescued from that place some two months afterwards, and
brought to Sydney. He then went to the gold diggings, and
was afterwards employed as third officer and clerk on board the
S.S. Havilahy then running to Queensland. After this he
returned to Messrs. O'Dowd & Co., but the spell of the Islands
was upon him, and when an emergency arose, and a new master
was needed for the schooner Captain Cook, which was then
employed by the firm, he applied for the position. This was
promised to him if he succeeded in obtaining a master's
certificate. After successfully passing his examination this was
granted, and he took charge of the vessel and speedily justified
the confidence of his employers in his trustworthiness and
ability. Whilst engi^ed in the Island trade he rescued the

372

GEORGE BROWN

crew of the ship Delhi, which had been lost on the Indispensable
Reef, and brought them to Brisbane, for which action he was
highly commended by the authorities. He also rescued the
shipwrecked crew of the Latonia from the natives of Hada Bay,
and forwarded them to Brisbane ; and he also succoured the
crews of the wrecked vessels MeUor and Trevelyan Family. He
had indeed a remarkable experience in being thus privileged to
help so many people in their troubles. He always possessed the
full confidence of the naval authorities on the Australian
Station, and he gave the late Commodores Goodenough and
Wilson and others much valuable information and assistance.
He was very popular with the natives, though no man was more
firm with them when such action was deemed necessary. The
leading chiefs in the Eastern and Western Solomons and
Duke of York Island regarded him as their friend, and had
implicit confidence in him, because he never broke faith with
them, or attempted to deceive them. Natives are good judges
of character, and " Aleck," as they called him, was always
trusted by them. I have already told the story of his great
kindness to me when I was returning to my desolate home
in March. We saw him again in Duke of York in July of the
same year, 1880. I have often thought that he had some fear or
presentiment of coming troubles with the natives. He was very
anxious, as I have already stated, lest .something should happen
to me when I used to go on shore at Marau Sound, The last
time he was at Lua Niua (Ontong, Java) he would not go
on shore, and always predicted that more massacres would soon
follow those which had already taken place in the Solomons,
from the fact that no punishment had been inflicted. Just
before he left us he said to me : " Oh, by-the-byc, I have not
given you a receipt for those stores which I have had from you."
" Oh, never mind," I replied, " you will be here again in a month,
and then we can settle the account." To this he replied : " No,
it is best to give a receipt. Who knows? I may be killed,
the ship may be lost, or something may happen " : and he gave
me the receipt.

I
I

Fholo by Mr. H. P. M. Bciry.

GUMt, A CHIEF OF RUVIANA.

STONE WIIARK AT RUVIANA, SOLOMON ISLANDS.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 373

As I have already stated, I went with him on his last
voyage as far as Metlik, to visit s^ain the French colonists,
and just as we were leaving he brought a beautiful pair of
orange cowries as a present to my wife, which we still treasure
up in the little box in which he presented them. I parted
with him at Metlik, when he started for the Solomons, and
I began to work my way back to Port Hunter in our whale>
boat On Thursday, August 12, we sighted the Ripple off
Port Hunter about noon, and were at once in joyous expectation
of seeing again our old friend, and of receiving our letters
from home. As the vessel steamed into port we saw the fl^
at half-mast, but concluded that she was probably bringing up
some of the colonists who had died, as we had left one or
two of them very unwell. I sent a note down on board, but
Waruwarum, who took the letter, soon came running back,
crying bitterly: "Oh I Mr. Brown, Aleck! Aleck!" He
would say no more, but just sat down and cried. I received
from the mate some extracts from the ship's log, and a note
asking me to go on board at once. I shall never forget my
experience that day. When I stepped on board the mate
and men were so overpowered by their feelings that they
could not speak to me, but just took my hand, led me into
the cabin, pointed to the blood-stained sides and roof, to the
cuts made by the tomahawks, and then all wept together.

By degrees we heard the story. The Ripple had called
at a place called Numanuma, near Cape de Gras, on the
east side of Bougainville Island, on her way up to Duke of
York. Captain Ferguson had never been in that place before.
On August 8 they bought several bags 'of b6che-de-mer and
snail shells, and found the natives quite friendly and apparently
quiet On the 9th they commenced trading again early in
the morning. At 8.30 a.m. a large fleet of canoes came off
with bdche-de-mer and shells, and the mate computed that
altogether there were about three hundred natives in and
around the ship. At about 8.45 a.m. the attack commenced.
It was supposed that Captain Ferguson was in the cabin

374

GEORGE BROWN

looking out on the deck, when he was struck down by a blow
across the side of the head. The man who struck him must
have been hiding by the side of the door, as the blow was
a left-handed one, and the tomahawk in descending cut a deep
mark on the upper side of the doorway. The steward was
down the after hold, engaged in handing up some stores by
the captain's orders. He heard the captain call out, " I'm
killed " ; and immediately received himself a dreadful wound
in the neck from a tomahawk. He fell, but recovered, and
with his revolver shot the two men who were standing over
the hatchway, one of whom it was pretty certain was the man
who struck down the captain. The mate, who was on the
main hatch, was struck by a tomahawk, fell, and received several
severe cuts when down ; but his assailant was engaged by
one of the native crew, and he soon recovered consciousness
and helped in the fight. The engineer, Bernard Watt
(" Barney "), first felt the blood and brains of a poor native
lad who was at the wheel spattered in his face, and then fired
the first shot. He was protected by the boat, and so was
able to fire until his ammunition was out He then went to
the cabin for more, and there found Captain Ferguson quite
dead on the floor, and a native woman, who was a passenger,
also dead. The natives fought hard, and when driven off
the ship's deck still kept up the fight from their canoes,
discharging arrows from a comparatively short distance. This
fight, however, was too unequal to last long, and as the bullets
from the rifles began to tell they gave up the attack, and
pulled away for the shore. It was then found that four were
Killed, viz. Captain Ferguson, a native woman, and two others,
one of whom was taken away by the natives. The mate,
Mr. Davies, the engineer, Mr. Pensee a passenger, and five
of the crew were wounded, some of them very severely. Steam
was got up, and at 10.30 a.m. the vessel was steered through
the passage and stood away for Duke of York, All did their
best to save their lives and the ship. The steward (a Japanese)
was praised by all for his bravery. Though wounded in the

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 375

most dreadful manner in several places, he fought until the
dup was clear and the natives driven away, when he fainted
from loss of blood, and afterwards won the respect and love
of us all by his care of the poor fellows who were fellow-
sufferers with him.

It was a sad sight for me when I went on board the vessel
commanded by my old friend, whom I had left a little more
than a fortnight before, to see the blood-stains on floor and
wall, to hear the story of the fight, to behold the poor men
all gashed and wounded by the tomahawks, and to look in
vain for the good, kind, and honest face of my old friend.
Everything about spoke of the interest he had taken in us,
and of his expectation of soon seeing us again. 1 found our
parcels from the colonies all laid out in the cabin, together
with a tin of biscuits which he was bringing up for my wife.
On opening the desk I found our letters all placed ready to be
handed out as soon as I got on board, and some files of Punch
and the late papers from Sydney all arranged in readiness
to be given to me as soon as he reached the port I examined
the spot where his body was found, and discovered somethii^
which had not been previously noticed, namely, that he must
have fallen alongside a large camphor-wood chest, and retained
just enough consciousness to fire the revolver which the steward
told us he had placed there. I saw the mark of the bullet
in the sideboard, through which it had passed and then entered
the compass box, where I found it. The direction showed
that the weapon must have been fired whilst he was lying on
the floor. The mate, Mr. Davies, was struck with a tomahawk
across the shoulders and fell down, but fortunately recovered in
time to save himself. The engineer, " Barney," was shot
through the cheek with an arrow, but succeeded in extracting
it and fought very bravely indeed. I saw many traces of the
severe struggle which they had passed through. I picked up
several broken and blood-stained arrows, and found many
others had lodged in the sails and iother parts of the vessel
It will give some idea of the tremendous force with which

376

GEORGE BROWN

these wooden-headed arrows were shot, when I mention that
one, which had been fired from a canoe at some considerable
distance away from the vessel, had come with such force as
to pass through both sides of the galley funnel.

As soon as possible we got the wounded men on shore,
and I sent away my boat to New Britain to inform Captain
Stephens, who was connected with Captain Ferguson in
business, of the sad affair. 1 also sent a note to Captain
Izat of H.M.S. Conflict, and he at once came on board with
Captain Hernsheim, and kindly offered all the help he could
give. There was unfortunately no medical officer on board
the vessel, so that the duty of attending to the wounded
men devolved entirely on me. They were dreadfully mutilated,
and from the length of time which had elapsed the work
of sewing up and dressing the wide and gaping wounds was
made both very dreadful and unpleasant. One man who
had received no fewer than eight deep gashes lingered until
the 17th, when he died. The white man Pensee had both
arms broken, and received some very severe wounds on the
neck. The Japanese steward had, in addition to some smaller
wounds, a dreadful gash which laid open the whole of his
neck from the ear to the collar-bone, and the others had
also received fearful cuts. Mr. Stephens volunteered to help
me in attending to the wounded, but was only able to do
so for a very short time. It was indeed a most painful
experience. The last patient that 1 attended to was the
Japanese steward, and after I had finished the very painful
operations necessary in his case I was completely exhausted-
Captain Izat came in, and was standing by when I had
finished, and we were both very much affected by the heroic
conduct of the steward. I have already told how dreadfully
he was wounded; and yet as soon as I had finished sewing
up and dressing the fearful gashes which had been inflicted
on him, he sat up on his mat and, addressing himself
to me in broken English, said: "Mr. Brown, you get some
men to look out for these poor fellows in the night time,

tmt

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE

and I will look out and cook and attend upon them during
the day time." I saw my friend, Captain Izat*s face flush,
and his eyes fill, and I am sure he could see the same
effects on myself, when we heard this poor man offering
to devote himself to the work of attending upon his un-
fortunate companions. It was a grand example of self-sacrifice

The excitement amongst the natives was very great indeed,
and I am certain that no one mourned more sincerely over
Captain Ferguson's death than did Torogud, a chief living
a few miles away from the mission station. I never saw
a native express such deep feeling. On entering the cabin
he burst into tears, threw himself down on the floor,
knocked his head on the sides of the cabin, and fairly howled
in his sorrow and anger. He was very anxious indeed to
know how far the place where his friend was killed was
from Port Hunter, and begged that he and his people might
be taken there to fight them. Next day he destroyed his
own plantation, burnt and destroyed all the clothing and
other presents which had been given him by Captain Ferguson,
blackened his face, divided hts money, and observed other
forms of mourning according to native custom for a vety
near relation. All the natives about felt that they had lost
a good friend by the sad calamity.

With the exception of the man who died soon after he
was landed, all the rest recovered. The native whose life
I despaired of was taken back to his own island j and, much
to my surprise, I heard some years afterwards that he bad
recovered, though never again able to use the leg which was to
seriously injured. He was young, and the antiseptic treat-
ment which was given him enabled nature to effect tbe
partial cure.

There was profound sorrow amongst all his old friends
and acquaintances in the Solomons Group and elsewiiope
when the news of Captain Ferguson's death was reptxteiit
and with this there was also a strongly expressed dedre
that some monumeiit should be erected to his meimny. Tl^

37*

GEORGE BROWN

was afterwards carried out, and a monument, with a suitable
inscription, was erected to his memory in Nusa Songa, in
the Solomons Group.

As I deemed it best to complete the account of the last
incidents, 1 have not given in their chronological order some
other events which I think ought to be recorded, one of which
is the appointment of the first local preachers in New Britain.
At our meeting on April 13, 1880, we appointed three of
our converts to this office, and I never proposed any one for
that important position with more satisfaction than I did
those three men. The men appointed were Peni Lelei, from
Duke of York Island, who had been our steady friend ever
since we began the Mission, Ilaita Togimamara from New
Britain, and Petero Topilike from New Ireland. Peni was
a very intelligent young man. He was my best pundit, and
gave me great help in the work of translation. He was a
devoted Christian, a good preacher, and was afterwards teacher
and for many years in pastoral charge of several villages.
Ilaita (Elijah) was a prot^g6 of Peni Raiwalui, our catechist
in Kininigunan. He was one of the first chiefs on New
Britain to welcome us in 1875, and was always very
friendly to us. He was, however, in the early days of the
Mission one of the party who entrapped me on shore, as
I have narrated elsewhere, intending to take my life in
payment for that of one of their own people who had been
killed by a trader. I never knew accurately what part he
took in that affair, except that he was the man who asked
me if I was not afraid to land amongst them. It was probably
owing to his influence that I escaped at that time. Petero
(Peter) Topilike was a native of Kalil, New Ireland, and was
one of the first converts who were baptized. He was a
good man, and a successful teacher and preacher to the end
of his life.

It would have been easy to increase the number of local
preachers at the time, but we thought it best to be very

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 379

careful, and only to appoint when we were sure that the
men were not only good and true, but had also an intelligent
knowledge and experience of the salvation which they were
to proclaim to others.

On June 2 I accompanied Captain Bower in H.M.S.

Conflict to New Britain. We had heard of a somewhat serious

quarrel amongst the natives in that district, and that they

were preparing to fight each other, I therefore thought it

advisable to enlist the kindly services of Captain Bower as

peacemaker, as, from his position, and the presence of a

ship of war, he would probably do more than we ourselves

could accomplish. Next day, June 3, we sent messages away

for all the chiefs of the contending parties to come together.

This they did, and we succeeded in inducing them to give

up the contemplated war, and be at peace. I am sure that

Captain Bower will long remember the scenes which he

witnessed that day. There were, of course, old accounts to

settle between the contending parties as an essential to a

permanent reconciliation, and this was done in the regular

native fashion. A leading man from one of the contending

parties stood up and, holding a coil of native money, shouted

a challenge to the opposite party to come and take it. The

others then rushed forward with spears poised and tomahawks

uplifted, as though they were about to annihilate the daring

challenger. But just as they reached striking distance they

struck the ground with their tomahawks, and drove their

spears into the earth at the foot of the man challenging

them. They then took the diwara, and with yells and shouts

rushed back to their own party, when they in their turn

offered native money, which the others accepted in the same

way. This exchange of money was for the purpose of paying

for men who had been killed or injured in preceding fights.

The ceremonies for the day concluded with a general rush

together of the contending parties, when the principal men

exchanged spears with each other. Next morning there was

a great dance, after which they all parted as good friends.

38o

GEORGE BROWN

Both Captain Bower and I were very well pleased with the
successful result of our mediation.

After the Conflict left I went on to Raluana, and from there
to Diwaon on Saturday, June 5, where I bought land for a
mission station. This, it will be remembered, was one of the
towns on the coast which was implicated in the murder of our
native minister and teachers ; but I was there with them quite
alone, and did not feel the slightest fear. Next day, Sunday, I
was at Diwaon and Karavia, and I shall never forget that day.
It was one of the best days I have ever spent in the mission-
field, because I heard then, for the first time, a New Britain chief
preach to men and women of his own island the blessed Gospel
of Christ in their own language. Ilaita, as I have stated, was
the man who asked me if I was not afraid when they had
entrapped me ashore at Kininigunan, and, whilst not amongst
the first lot baptized, was one of our earliest converts. In
a letter to the General Secretary of June 14 I gave the
following account of this service, and my impressions at
the time: "Ilaita and his brother welcomed us to Kinini-
gunan in the early days when there was not a trader in
the group, when no Duke of York native had ever slept on
the coast, when few if any of the inhabitants of the towns, which
now exchange visits regularly, had ever seen each other, and
when landing on New Britain was deemed to be rather a
hazardous matter. He has been very consistent ever since the
teacher went to reside amongst them. He was appointed as
local preacher at our last meeting, but had never preached away
from home until I took him with me on my visit. He preached
from, ' The earth is full of the goodness of God ' ; and I was
really astounded and delighted as I sat and heard him. His
language was good, and he spoke earnestly and well, without
the slightest hesitancy, and yet without any appearance of
assumption. Oh ! how different his language sounded to our
poor attempts. The natives listened with ears, mouths, and
eyes. I never saw such an attentive congregation. My heart
was very full as I sat and listened, and I felt as if I would like to

A NOTBD HEAD-HUNTER, SOLOMON ISLANDS.

lu.

]t "

■f.

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE l

up and run away somewhere into the bush out of sight aad
hearing of every one but God. It was a rich reward for all our
labours and trials. And this was in Diwaon, where they
cooked and ate poor Livai only two years ago, and in sight of -
the hills where he with Silasa and the others were killed 1 I
wandered myself over the hills on Saturday evening with a crowd
of the Diwaon natives with me, and never even thought of
being afraid. I wanted to take Ilaita on to Karavia, and so we
started immediately after service. They were not expecting us
at Karavia, so I had a good opportunity of seeing what the
congregation was when the teacher alone was preaching. We
landed just as Peni was finishing his sermon, and I was pleased
to hear him speak so fluently, and to find such a good con-
gr^ation assembled. Ilaita preached again in the afternoon
on the Ten Commandments, and had another attentive congrega-
tion. I am more than ever convinced that our great help must
come from the people themselves. Once let us get a fair start
with a few more men like Peni, Petero, and Ilaita, and the people
will at all events soon hear and know the Gospel I am continu-^
ally impressing upon the teachers the necessity of paying
particular attention to the instruction and training of any who
are likely to become themselves preachers and teachers. You
have often thought me to be very sanguine, but I assure you I
was never sanguine enough to expect to hear such a sermon as
I heard on Sunday week from a New Britain native, nor to hear
such prayers as I have often heard from Peni and other Duke of
York natives in so short a time as this. I wish I was twenty
years younger, or that I could get a thorough, good overhaul in
some dock or other, and get reclassed for a few years more.
But there I must leave all this, and just wait and do what He
marks out for me.

" I am pretty well now. Last week Mrs. B. and I went to
Kerawara, where I opened a new chapel. To-morrow or next
day we start for New Ireland, where we intend to remain for a
week or so whilst visiting all the teachers. Since our two dear
little ones were taken, the house is tooknesomeforniy dour wife

382

GEORGE BROWN

when the little boy and I are away, and so now we do as we
did nearly twenty years ago, before the children came, and
often go together to visit the stations. The tcachere like it,
and so do the people, and we also enjoy it So all are pleased,
and we can do more good than by simply making a flying
visit."

On June i6 Mrs. Brown and [ started for Kalil, New
Ireland, and had a good passage across. Next day 1 opened
the new church at Kali), and we remained there for several days.
On Monday, June 21, we went to Kabanut, where I found that
Topulu (King Dick), our Duke of York chief, had been engaged
by some people farther down the coast to help them with his
musket in their fight with the Eretubu people. We were told
that he had trapped the Eretubu natives down to the beach by
dressing himseilf and party as teachers, who wished to buy food,
and so had been able to shoot three of the unfortunate people. As
this conduct would most certainly imperil the lives of otir
teachers, I determined to go on and investigate the matter. On
our way down we met Topulu and party returning, and I had
a somewhat stormy interview with the old man. He of course
denied the accusation, but I told him that if 1 found that he had
really committed the murders I would pay for the men, and he
would have to refund the amount to me.

I wrote the following account of our journey to the General
Secretary, Rev. B, Chapman, under date July 16, 1880: "I
have made one long journey to New Ireland since I wrote you
last, as 1 wished very much to settle the question as to whether
there really was a very narrow crossing place at Kuras, some
thirty miles below our present station at Kalil. The natives
assured me in 1875 that there was such a place, and so I
considered It very important indeed to find out if it were really
the case, as, if so, a teacher or missionary stationed at such
a place could command two sides of the island. I suppose the
natives must have thought that we wished to find such a spot,
and so every account we heard made this place narrower and

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 383

murrower. At first it was only a short distance across, then
men ccxild be heard calling finom one beach to the other, and
at last I was told in answer to a question of mine that there
was only one little difficult place to prevent me from hauling
my boat across the isthmus from one beach to the other. This
settled the matter ; and so we started and spent a few days at
Kalil, opening a new church there and baptizing two adults, one
of them a woman, the first one, by-the-bye, baptized in the
Mission.

" We had a good run to Kuras in the steam launch, towing
the whale-boat nearly all the way. We slept at the house of

a trader here. Captain C , and next morning I said to

him : ' Now we will soon tell you about this wonderful isthmus.'
Mrs. Brown and our little boy went with us. I had sent to
Kurumut previously to get guides, etc., but we found no one on
the beach where we landed. In due time, however, we per-
suaded one man to go, and on our way we met the chief and
a few others. We soon found out that the opposite coast was
fiurther away than we expected. Mrs. Brown walked bravely
on for several miles, when she most unfortunately got a bad
attack of fever. She held out as long as she could, but at
last consented to be carried on a rope slung to a pole, and borne
by two natives. Of course we had been told that it was ' only a
short distance,' and we should soon see the opposite beach. But
we walked mile after mile, and at last we rested on the bank
of a small rivulet, when, to my amazement, I found out that we
were not quite half way across. However, we pushed on, and
got to the opposite coast after having walked at least fifteen
miles. If ever a man gets his boat hauled across there over the
hills and gullies which we crossed, he will be a very enterprising
man indeed I

" We soon made good friends with the people. They had
evidently not had much intercourse with whites ; in fact, they
told us that we were the first they had ever seen except in
passing vessels, as no one had ever landed there. I objected
to the house shown us as a sleeping place, as it was on the

384

GEORGE BROWN

beach and away from the people, and finally succeeded in
getting the use of a yam house, which was nearly empty.
We soon made ourselves ver>' comfortable there. We were
all very hungry, and so were glad enough to find that we could
get some food. We were just having our supper when one
of our Kalil lads from the opposite side of the island heard
the people talking about our being Duke of York people, and,
as he says, proposing to kill us as payment for three of their
friends from Eretubu who had been killed by Topulu (King
Dick) of Duke of York three days before. We had heard of
that murder at Kabanut, and, as I have stated, I had an inter-
view with Topulu on the subject on our way down. The
story was made more significant by the fact that the lad
who overheard the conversation reported that they had re-
cognised my boy Kaplen as being the son (really nephew) of
Topulu ; and by all their ideas of justice it was quite right for
them to kill him, and all who were with him, as payment for
the injury done to them. When he told this to our party they
were all very frightened, and came and told me that the people
were going to attack us. I was not disposed to pay much
attention to them, as I knew they were all frightened when in
a strange place far from home. Mrs, Brown, however, was much
alarmed, and when I went outside I found all our party very
much excited, and the natives of the place beginning to look
very suspicious — not, I believe, because they meant to injure us,
but because they saw that our people were excited, and they
suspected that wc were thinking about injuring tftem. I was
afraid lest they should jump up and run away, when we should
not have been able to explain, and so would have had trouble.
Fortunately we had a very good interpreter in Petero, our local
preacher from Kalil. I took hold of his arm and said : " Tell
them we are friends, and mean no harm. Tell them we have
heard that they intend to attack us by-and-by." Loud cries
of " No ! No ! Peace ! Peace." " All right 1 Now ask them
to look at my wife and my boy Geoff, and tell me if a man
brings his wife and a boy like that when he comes to fight

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 385

4ak them if they would take women and little diildreii with
them if they meant to fight any people." This made a veiy
great impression, and I a)uld see that they were quite satisfied
as to our peaceable intentions. We had service with them
afterwards, and Fetero preached in their own language. Just
at dusk, by special request, our lads fired off their fowling
pieces. I shot a fowl, and my boy Kaplen hit a nut tree, and
so we all parted very good friends. No one, however, slept
much. Mrs. Brown was still frightened by the tales she had
heard, and our Duke of York and New Ireland people were
still doubtful ; so they kept watch all night There was not
the slightest necessity for doing so, but I had long given up
attempting to convince them when they preferred being
fiightened and uncomfortable.

" Next morning it was raining hard, but all were so anxious
to go that we started in the rain. I got several of the people
to accompany us on the pretence of helping to carry our goods,
but really with the ulterior object of getting them to the other
side of the island to make friends with the people there. For
some distance our road was through tall, coarse, wet grass
higher than any of us, so we had a constant bath all the way.
We went at a great rate for several miles, as the men almost
ran who were carrying Mrs. Brown, and we, of course, kept up
with them. The people in all the little villages we passed were
very kind and pleasant, and I feel sure that they meant us
no harm. Still, perhaps, it was as well that we heard their first
foolish talk, and so were able to stop any further nonsense.
The place where we slept is called Bo, and is nearly opposite the
island of Gerrit Denys, and some distance farther north than where
I crossed from Kalil in 1878. The whole of the east coast oi
New Ireland is much more level than the west side, the mountain
range is much farther inland, and the ascent is not nearly so
abrupt as on the west side. I have noticed this peculiarity in
the Solomons Group, and also in most of the Islands. We
went a different way back, which the natives repeatedly assured
us was much nearer, and only a little more difficult The £act

3^6

GEORGE BROWN

was that it was much longer, and much more difficult, but it led
through one of our chiefs villages, at which he wished us to call.
However, we got a fine view of Gerrit Denys and all the coast
line from the summit of the range, so we were well pleased.
We reached Captain C.'s station again about i p.m., having
travelled at a good rate most of the way over. So we found
that our narrow isthmus was at least fifteen miles across, or
as broad as almost any other part of the island. There are,
however, no high mountains to cross, and with a little labour
a bridle track might easily be made. On our way up the coast
again we called at Eretubu, and I paid for the three men whom
King Dick had shot. Our teachers go there to buy food, and
I wished to show that we have no sympathy at all with Dick
in his wicked doings."

On October 26 I again wrote to the General Secretary, and
as the letter contains an account of the state of our work at
that date, and also of the conditions in which it was carried on,
I reproduce the principal portions : '* On September 14 H.M.S.
Beagle arrived here, and has been in the neighbourhood ever
since. Sunday, September 19, was a high day with us here. I
preached that day to the largest congregation I have ever
preached to in this group. Our church at Molot is by far the
largest we have, and it was crammed, and some had to sit
outside. We were holding our regular general meeting of
teachers that week, and so I arranged to baptize all the accepted
candidates on that Sunday. I remember one of our preachers
saying in Conference that he had very few fine sermons, but he
flattered himself that he had ' a fine collection of most beautiful
texts,' and I certainly thought that day, as I preached from the
parable of the grain of mustard seed, and contrasted the large
and attentive congregation before me with the few poor ignorant,
naked people we used to collect together under a tree, or in our
little house, five years ago, to talk to them in pidgin-English,
that I not only had a beautiful and appropriate te.vt, but also
one of which 1 was privileged to see the practical and literal
fulfilment. 1 baptized fourteen adults, principally young men,

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 387

and one wcunan, tibe wife of our local (ffeacher, Pent It was
really a most gratifying sight, and we felt well repaid for all
our labours here. Mr. Danks came in from his appointment
during the service, and assisted me in giving the Sacrament at
the dose. At our teachers' meeting the reports from nearly all
the teachers were very encouraging, and we can now report that
schools are r^;iilarly held in all our stations. Two other young
men were proposed as local preachers, but their acceptance was
deferred until they had been personally examined by Mr. Danks
or myself. A social question, in which one of our teachers was
deeply interested, was the subject of much discussion. He is a
good fellow, one of the pioneer band of 1875, who has hitherto
lived in what is falsely called a state of single blessedness, but
who now prop<»es to take to himself a wife from amongst the
ladies of the land. The meeting quite approved of his choice,
or, rather, they approved of the young lady's desire — ^for I believe
the proposition came from her in the first place; but they
decided that the consummation must be postponed indefinitely,
until the lady has been brought away from her village and has
resided for some time with the catechist here in Duke of York,
for the purp<»e of being properly instructed both in spiritual
and temporal affairs. She is here now, and I believe will prove
to be a suitable wife, and a help to him in his work. I was very
glad indeed that Captain de Hoghton was able to attend one
of ourv services here. He saw only our small congregation
in this village, but we had a very good attendance that after-
noon.

" After our meetings were over Captain de Hoghton very
kindly asked me to go with him on a short cruise down the New
Ireland coast. We expected to be back in ten or fourteen days,
but a lot of calm days protracted our voyage, so that we were
more than three weeks away. I am, however, very glad that I
went, as I have now a much more correct knowledge of the New
Ireland coast in our own immediate neighbourhood than I had
before. We sailed slowly along the coast, quite close inshore, as
it was very fine weather, so I had an excellent opportunity

GEORGE BROWN

for getting a good knowledge of the district Wc found that
the coast is far more densely populated from Kuras (our furthest
known place hitherto) going north than it is in any other part
that we have ever visited. Beginning at a point only forty or
fifty miles from here, we found numbers of large villages on the
coast, whilst the number of plantation clearings on the hill-
sides prove that there is a very large population all along the
coast. Some of the villages were at least a mile long, and ue
often had thirty or forty canoes alongside the vessel at once
What we saw has convinced me that our selection of this place
as the centre of our new Mission was a right one, as we have,
within a radius of only fifty miles from Port Hunter, a
IKjpulation which I am sure will heavily ta.>c our utmost efforts
for many years to come. We visited Sandwich Island, the
Portland Group, and New Hanover, so I am now pretty well
informed as to the different places about here.

" And now I must tell you of other things not so pleasant
as these to write about. I seem to be always reporting to you
some massacre or murder, and I am sorry to say that this letter
will be no exception to the rule, as four, if not five, people have
been killed this month. We have not yet got the full particulars,
but the facts are as follows :

" The cutter Leh'a, engaged in trading for Mr. Farrell, now in
Sydney, went to Kabair, in Port Weber, New Britain, to collect
copra early in this month. Some trade had been previously
left with one of the chiefs there, with which he was to purchase
copra. They went there on the 9th instant, and either got no
copra at all, or only a ver>' small quantity, which was not
equivalent to the goods supplied. The chief, however, said he
had no more to give. Mr. Murray, who was in charge of the
cutter, then went on board, telling the chief he would visit him
again the next day. Whether this was meant as a menace or
not I cannot say, but it is pretty certain the people so under-
stood it. Next morning, Sunday, the tSth instant, Mr. Murray,
master of the cutter, Mr. Anderson, late mate of the Sea Rifi^
Mr. Beninger, a trader of Mr. Farrell's (one of the French

'■\

111 '

THIRD TERM OP RESIDENCE 389

colonistsX and a Solomon Island man, landed, armed, for the
purpose of getting some payment either in copra or dtwara
(native money) for the goods supplied. What took place
afterwards is at present a matter of conjecture only, as they
Vwere all killed soon after landing. One native, the chief himself,
is said to be wounded by a shot from a revolver. The bodies of
the three white men were recovered, but that of the Solomon
Islander was taken away and eaten. A few days after this
another of Mr. Farrell's traders, called Colfurty (also one of the
French colonists), was found shot dead in his house near Ratavul,
not far from Kabakada. The natives say he shot himself when
delirious, but the general belief is that he was shot by the
natives, who sacked the house the same night. Captain de
Hoghton, in common, I believe, with all the other commanders
of Her Majesty's ships, is not allowed to interfere in any way
in the case of outrages committed against British subjects, but
must confine himself to simply investigating the matter, and
then report to the Commodore, who, I presume, will then
report to Fiji. He has now gone to Kabair for that purpose.
Kabair is the place where Jamieson was murdered in 1876
— the first murder down here. There have been plenty since
that.

" Then there was an affair at Kininigunan a few weeks ago»
which was bad enough, but might have been much worse. A
Frenchman (another of the colonists) was employed there,
trading for a firm at Noumea, whose vessel, the Venus, was
lying there at the time the affair happened. The Frenchman's
story is that a native was in his house. He ordered him out
several times, but the man refused to go, and got insolent, when
the Frenchman struck him. The man ran away crying, and the
chief came running up, and, as the white man says, aimed a
blow at him with his tomahawk. On this he drew his revolver,
and shot the chief dead with a ball through his head. There
was at once a rush, but the white man got away into the water,
and was picked up by a boat from the vessel A woman was
badly cut, and the house was sacked. And now let me tell you

390

GEORGE BROWN

what took place, that you may judge whether our teachers have
influence or not. Peni Raiwalui, our catechist, and another
teacher, unaided by any white missionary or trader, went
amongst the natives, who were still smarting under the loss of
the chief, and succeeded in getting them to restore nearly the
whole of the goods which they had taken away when the white
man fled after shooting the chief. Out of about fifty pounds'
worth of property taken, about forty pounds' worth was
recovered, the remainder being probably in possession of the
bush natives, who were down at the time. Mr. Danks arrived
there soon after, and, with the teacher, got a few more articles,
and then induced the natives to make peace again. Captain
Champion, the supercargo of the vessel, paid for the man
who was shot, and the natives paid him for the injury done
to the woman, and all was right again. Captain Champion
behaved very well indeed throughout the affair, and seemed
anxious to act kindly and fairly to the natives. He expressed
himself to be both astonished and delighted at the conduct
and influence of the teacher. The trader was at once dis-
charged from his employ for having needlessly provoked the
quarrel."

The following letter, with its accompanying extract, which
was published in the Weekly Advocate of January i, 1881,
was very gratifying to all our friends, as giving an impartial
and unsolicited testimony to the work which was being
carried on :

"H.M.$. tyofucrenetX

*' Sydney, Dec. 22, 1880.

" Sir,

" 1 have much pleasure in forwarding to you the enclosed
extract from a letter I have received from Lieutenant de
Hoghton, commanding H.M.S. Beagle, testifying to the good
work done by the missionaries and teachers stationed at Duke
of York Island and New Britain Group ; and I beg particularly
that my thanks may be conveyed to Messrs. Brown and Danks
for the great assistance rendered by them at all times to H.M.'s

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 391

ships, materially aiding their commanders in carrying out oj^ea

most delicate and onerous duties.

•' I am, Sir,

" Your obedient servant,

•* J. C. Wilson.

" Commodore,
•* REV. B. CHAPUAM, Gemral Saretary

** Wtsleyan Mhsionmy Society-,
*' Sydmy."

Extract from a ktUr received by Commodore IViisan from
Lkuimant dt Hoghton^ of ff.M.S. Beagle, December 4,
1880:
"On October 19, 1880, being oflf Kuras, I landed and
com.municated with Captain Glasson, the white trader, who
pressed Mr, Brown strongly to send a teacher there ; he, I
think, in common with most traders, deeming a teacher's
presence and influence with the natives as a great safeguard.
And here, sir, it may not be out of place to say a few words in
regard to the Mission established here. I have spent some time
now in this locality, and it is my decided opinion that the
Mission is doing unmixed good wherever its influence is felt.
There are now about twenty-nine stations established in New
Britain, New Ireland, and the Duke of York Group. At all
these stations the native teachers (Fijians, Tongans, and
Samoans) can converse freely with the natives in their own (the
native) language, and at all but two stations the teachers
are able to, and do, preach and conduct Divine service in the
same language. I have, I believe, seen the whole of the
teachers, and, as far as I can judge, they are a most respectable
and worthy body of men. I have heard them conduct service,
and preach to a church full of natives, who, outwardly, certainly
listened attentively to what was said ; and among their numbers
is an old New Britain chief, who is, I believe, a sincere convert
to Christianity. These men, living as they do, and associating
with the natives, are a constant example to them of a better life
than their own. The natives see the clean, well-built, roomy

392

GEORGE BROWN

houses of the teachers ; they sec he has but one wife, who
is treated as his equal, the man doing the hard work, and the
woman attending to the domestic duties ; they see him leading
an industrious, quiet, orderly life, and in all respects better than
their own, and they see and know they worship some Being
unknown to them. The missionaries rely greatly (and I think
rightly) on the example thus shown ; and that it has borne fruit
is self-evident from one fact alone — namely, that several natives
have adopted the teachers' style of building houses ; and I don't
doubt but that this beginning will spread. The teachers have
great influence over the natives, and I think the following fact
will undeniably prove it On the recent occasion of the killing
of a chief at Kininigunan by a Frenchman, the Frenchman's
house was looted by the natives, and trade valued at £$0 was
taken and stolen. The teachers immediately, without waiting
to communicate with the missionaries, went round to all the
villages (some five miles Inland), and actually persuaded the
people to restore the greater part of the trade, they receiving
£^6 worth, and a few pounds' worth more being brought in
afterwards. I have visited many teachers' houses, and almost
invariably find natives sitting in them conversing with the
teachers. Finally, I believe that if the requests of the natives
themselves to have teachers stationed in their villages were
complied with, three times the present number of teachers would
be insufficient."

From the date of my return from the long trip in H.M.S.
Beagle, October 20, to the end of the year, we were kept very
busy indeed, as I had to pack up our goods, had many matters
to settle with the teachers, and, in addition, had to take several
long journeys, some of which were made difficult and dangerous
by the very heavy weather which prevailed in the north-west
monsoon.

I visited all the villages in Duke of York Group, made
several visits to New Britain and also to almost every station
on New Ireland. On one of these last visits to New Ireland

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 393

I married, on November 24, the Fijian tntcher Elimotama to
Mere (Mary), a girl from Kabanut Elimotama was the
first of our teachers who took to himself a wife from amongst
the people with whom he lived, but his example was often
followed by others in later years.

On Thursday, December 2, the John Hunt arrived, and
anchored at Port Hunter in the evening. A few days after
this we passed through one of the most terrible times of
anxiety and distress which I have ever experienced in my
mission life. It is both a delicate and difficult matter to
relate, but it seems right and proper for me to give some
account of it, in order that my readers may have some idea
of the painful circumstances in which some of the missionaries
were placed in those early days when far away from medical
aid. It is impossible, however, for any one to thoroughly
realise the crushing weight of anxiety and responsibility which
we felt at the time.

On Sunday, December 5, Mrs. Danks was taken ill, and we
fully expected soon to welcome the advent of the second baby
bom in the Mission, our own little Wallis being the first;
but it was not until Tuesday evening, December 7, that our
hopes were realised, just when we were in the depths of despair
and sorrow, and not until Thursday, the 9th, that we had any
hope of safety of either mother or child. During a long
life I have never passed through a period of such intense
anxiety as we experienced during the five days in which our
dear sister was ill, and never did the weight of responsibility
press so heavily upon me ; but I cannot possibly give more
than a faint idea of our position and the terrible anxiety
and pain which wc suffered. Our sister was taken ill on
Sunday, but on Tuesday the babe was still unborn. There
was no medical man nearer than the settlement of the Marquis
de Rays' colonists at Metlik, which was about a hundred and
twenty miles away, and to reach that place a long and dangerous
sea journey in an open boat was necessary. At 3 p.m., how-
ever, I sent away the whale-boat with a picked crew, with

394

GEORGE BROWN

instructions to proceed at once to Metlik with a letter from
me to Commander Le Prevost, asking him to send the medical
officer of the settlement as soon as possible, and telling him
that we were taking our patient in the John Hunt, and would
probably meet the doctor in the channel, but that if we did
not do so he was to come with all possible despatch to Port
Hunter. I then had a litter prepared, and gave instructions
for the schooner to be got ready for sea. After this was done
I decided to wait a little longer, and just after dark, to our
great joy, the baby was born. We were full of thankfulness
and would have recalled the boat, but as after events proved
it was most providential that we were not able to do so.
Fresh complications ensued, and our anxiety for the safety
of our dear sister was revived in greater intensity than before.
We did all that was possible to us, and we were assured
afterwards that our treatment, by God's blessing, undoubtedly
saved our dear sister's life until the necessary help was
available.

On Thursday I wrote in my diary : " We were all very
anxious and sad this morning. I felt quite faint and ill with
anxiety and sorrow, as I knew well that the end must soon
come unless help were given ; but as this necessitated the
administration of chloroform, I was very unwilling to do it
on my own responsibility. I had to tell my dear brother
Danks, however, that any further delay would undoubtedly
prove fatal to our beloved patient, and that if there were
no signs of the doctor before evening, I should feel compelled
to accept the responsibility ; and in this he fully agreed"
Mrs. Danks was wonderfully calm and quiet, and never uttered
one word of complaint She was fully resigned to God's will
and never murmured at the suflfering which she had to bear.
God was very near her, and I feel certain that she was
sustained by the assurance given to her by Him that aU
would be well with her. We anxiously swept the horizon
with our glasses hour after hour for the appearance of the
boat, and the natives also were eagerly looking for her from

I
I

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 395

every good position, each one anxious to be the first to si|^

her. Oh i how slowly those weary hours passed. But at

length we heard the welcome " Sail ho ! Sail ho ! " and at

once every man, woman, and child in the villages took up

the cry. ,As soon as we saw the doctor was in the boat I

went down to the beach to meet him, but I was utterly unable

to speak to him. I made several attempts to do so, but it

was not until we were quite close to the house that I could

utter a single word. It was an experience which I had never

before had, nor have I ever had it since. I was, of course,

under deep emotion, but the difficulty of speech was a physical

one. My mouth was dry and parched, and it was not until

my feelings were relieved by an outburst of tears that I was

able to do more than simply grasp the hand of Dr. Goyon,

and lead him up the path to the mission house. As I

expected, he found it necessary to administer an anaesthetic,

and then he successfully performed the necessary operation.

I could only write in my diary that night the words : *' Oh,

how thankful we were. What a revulsion of feeling I From

death to life i " We were very happy, and though the danger

was not quite past we were full of hope that by God's blessing

our dear sister's life would be spared. Our hopes were fully

realised, and the baby boy whose life was so mercifully

preserved was dedicated by his parents to the service of God

in the mission field. This solemn dedication was never recalled ;

and the proof that it was accepted by God is found in the

fact that the son is now a missionary in New Britain, in

the very Circuit in which he was born ; and he and his good

wife are carrying on the great work which was so dear to

his beloved parents, and for which they suffered so much.

There were some events in connection with this incident
which I have always regarded as providential. In the first
place, we had been able to render great assistance to the
French colonists, and so had a claim on them which they
very gladly acknowledged. Dr. Goyon told us that he con-
sidered it to be a great privilege to be able to help us. Then

39^

GEORGE BROWN

we would certainly have recalled the boat when the baby
was born if it had been possible to do so ; and if this had
been done Mrs. Danks would very probably have died. Then
chloroform and ether are not generally found amongst a
missionary's stores. Dr. Goyon had not brought either of
them with him, and he was both surprised and thankful when
I was able to supply him with those very necessary drugs.
God was very good to us all this time, and we felt very
grateful. In connection with the incident I feel it to be a
great privilege to record the noble conduct of the teachers
and people whom we sent away for assistance. They left
us in the whale-boat at 3 p.m. on Tuesday, December 7, and
returned with Dr. Goyon on Thursday, December 9, about
the same hour. In those forty-eight hours those noble men
travelled about two hundred and twenty miles, as, owing to
wind and currents, they had to follow the coast-line nearly
all the way to Metlik, and back to Port Hunter. During all
that time they never rested or ceased from rowing except
when they got an occasional respite by taking advantage of
the wind or land breeze on some parts of the coast, when
some of them were able to get a few minutes' sleept On the
return from Metlik, however, they had to contend with a
contrary wind and strong currents, and had to pull nearly
all the way back. It was a grand proof of their endurance
and courage, and of their love for the dear lady whose life
they knew was in great peril.

As Mrs. Danks gradually recovered strength, we were busy
packing and getting ready to start for Sydney in the /o/tn Hunt
During this time an incident occurred which I should not have
felt free to mention but for the fact that it was published
without our knowledge. I had noticed that my dear wife was
very troubled about leaving Mrs. Danks and the baby without
any other white women with her. I often found her in tears,
and strangely apathetic about our packing. At last she came
and proposed that I should return in the John Hunt with
our boy, and that she should stay behind until Mr. Rooncy

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 397

came, and return alone by some other vessel. ^^Hiat it
cost her to make this offer none can tell, but of her sincerity
there was not the shadow of a doubt I was simply
astounded when I heard the proposition, and felt humbled
and ashamed at my own conduct as compared with such
an act of sacrifice as my dear wife asked me to sanction.
I could only leave the decision to her. The sequel is found
in the following extract which I first saw or knew of when
it was published in The Weekly Advocate of February 26,
1881 :

" Missionary heroines are to be met with in the flesh as well
as read about in books. The wife of our . . . missionary, Gea
Brown, is one of these. Mrs. Danks, the wife of Mr. Brown's
colleague in New Britain, and daughter of the Rev. John
Watsford, who had been brought down to death's door, thus
writes of her : * I cannot attempt to give you the least idea of
the love and kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Brown. If I had been
their own child they could not have done more ; night and day
they were with me, doing all in their power, and in such
distress when they thought I must die. Mrs. Brown has been
so good to my dear baby, and has done everything for it.
How I shall miss her no one knows. One day soon after my
baby was born I was thinking of their going away, and felt
very low. Mrs. Brown noticed it, and coming to me asked,
** What. makes you low-spirited ? " I said, " Several things ; one
is your going away." She said she thought that was it, and she
then offered, if Mr. Brown would let her, to remain with me
till Mr. Rooney came. Of course 1 would not hear of this.
Several times afterwards she told me how willingly she would
remain if I would let her. Here she has been three or four
years away from her dear children, and yet she was willing
to remain some time longer, to comfort and help me. Not
one in a thousand would have thought of such a thing, much
less propose it. Such a woman is an honour to her sex, and
a living rebuke of the selfishness which rules the life of most
people.**'

398

GEORGE BROWN

GOOD-BYE !

And now the time came for our bidding good-bye to the
people amongst whom we had lived and laboured, to whom it
had been our privilege to proclaim for the first time the blessed
Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ, to tell them of their privileges
as the children of God, and by God's blessing to lead some of
them to that peace and joy which is given to men and women
the wide world over who, being justified by faith in Him who
came to seek and to save that which is lost, have peace with God
through our Lord Jesus Christ

Whilst busily engaged in packing and attending to the many
wants of the teachers and the people, I often felt very sad at
the prospect of leaving them all. The sufferings and privations,
the disappointments and sorrows, were all forgotten, and I could
think of nothing but the many acts of kindness we had received
from so many of the people, and their e\'ident regret that we
were about to leave them. I was especially pleased with the
many little presents which they brought us, not because of any
intrinsic value which they had, but because the very fact of their
giving anything at all, without the slightest idea or desire of
receiving a return present, showed such an utter change in their
nature and was such a convincing proof of the sincerity of their
love. I could, however, have said very little indeed of the
proceedings of the last few days, and I did not, as a matter of
fact, make any notes whatever of them. I found out afterwards,
however, when the account appeared in the Connexional paper,
that my good colleague, Rev, B. Danks, had done this, and had
said many things which I could not possibly have said. As
Mr, Danks gives a very correct account of the state of the
Mission at the time, I give the following extracts from his letter,
dated December 31, 1880, addressed to the General Secretar}' "^
the Missionary Society and published in The Weekly AdvocaU of
February 26, 1 88 1 :

"We have had great work among the natives over Mr. Brown's
departure. I wish you could have been present with us during

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 399

the past few days, and seen the natives as they trooped up
to Mr. Brown's house, bringing; pigs, fowls, spears, dubs,
and other things which they count valuable, and laying
them at his feet, without seeking any return ; and many of
them with tears in their eyes giving expression to their regret
at the prospect of parting with their 'best friend.' This
is more than we expected from men who have not yet
emerged from heathenism. Men from near and far have
called upon Mr. Brown and shown their respect to him in
this manner. Chiefs and commoners have vied with each
other in doing honour to our brother who has laboured so
earnestly and well for their benefit

"One cannot help thinking of the time when Mr. Brown
and his brave staff of teachers landed on these shores. It
is not so long ago — only five years — and yet such a change
has been wrought among the people that a trader said the
other day to Mr. Brown : * The story of the condition of
these people five years ago, to a new-comer, would sound
almost like a fable.' This change is more visible on Duke
<rf York than anywhere else, yet there is a wonderful change
wrought in our most remote stations. The traders are so
sensible of the good influence of our teachers over the
native mind, that some of them have joined with the natives
in requesting that teachers might be appointed to the several
villages yet unoccupied by us.

"I landed here in December 1878, yet I cannot give you
from actual experience a correct account of the condition
in which Mr. Brown found them. Stories, obtained from the
natives themselves and others (teachers) who were here at the
time, illustrative of their normal condition, I could give in
abundance; stories which have filled me with horror as I
have listened to them. All these show the difliculty of the
task undertaken by Mr. Brown and those who came with
him.

"When one walks about the island and suddenly comes
up(Mi a place where evidently there was once some kind of

GEORGE BROWN

settlement, and is informed by his guide that formerly there
resided on that spot a thriving people, but all at once they
were exterminated by their foes, who ate their remains with
the greatest possible relish, and then think of the present
time — how that men from villages formerly hostile now mix
freely unharmed, without any apprehension of danger, only
then can one understand the change which has taken place in
their social condition. If wc think of the transformation
which has taken place in the lives of some of these people, then
it is that we more thoroughly understand what has been done —
thirty-two baptized converts, all living consistent Christian
lives, some of them preaching to their fellow-countrymen
the good news of salvation, form a fitting and a glorious
conclusion to the faithful missionary labours of our brother
who is about to leave us. Some more will be baptized to-
morrow, and others are candidates for Church membership
and will be baptized (D.V.) next year. Thus the work is
spreading out on every hand, and I venture to prophesy
that, if we arc faithful to our trust, and the Lord smiles
upon our efforts in the future as He has in the past, in two
years from this the Duke of York will belong to our Saviour
in the truest sense of the term.

" None may again know and experience in these islands
the trial both of health and patience, the difficulty of travel
and first settlement, and all the attendant dangers of this
undertaking as known and experienced by Mr. Brown and
his followers in the early days of this Mission. Now we
journey along a known coast, and are received by the people
with kindness — then it was a terra incognita, inhabited by
bloodthirsty men ; now we have teachers' houses in which
we are comfortably lodged at night— then it was either
anchoring off an unprotected coast, with the chance of being
attacked before morning, or making a camp on the beach,
and using the shingle for a bed, with the open sky for a
covering, or a hammock swung to a tree ; now we have
a knowledge of the laws, customs, and language of the

■ 'A

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 401

people, which is available for all succeeding missionaries —
then all had to be done eib initios now we have a lesson-
book, a short catechism, the Ten Commandments, the Creed,
the Lord's Prayer, and fourteen hymns, all arranged in
order in one neat little book, printed in the Duke of York
dialect of the language. All this has not been done without
a considerable amount of physical and mental application.

"Over 300 miles of New Britain coast has been seen by
him in our mission boats, and positions noted for our future -
occupation. New Ireland has twice been crossed, and 150
miles of its coast-line traversed by him, before any other
white man ventured on such perilous undertakings. It is
easy now for others to follow where he has been, and pooh-
pooh the idea of danger, as some of them do ; but I notice
that such men are careful not to go far beyond their own
immediate homesteads, and when they do they are careful
to go fully armed. Duke of York itself presented not a few
dangers in those early days. A Molot man would just as
soon have thought of shooting himself as going to Meoko. There
is a story here among the natives, that on the occasion of
Mr. Brown's first visit to Meoko he took several chiefs with
him from different parts of the group. The steam launch
ran upon a rock, and remained there for some little time.
One of these chiefs sat down on the deck of the steamer
and wept, and could not be induced to do anything towards
getting her off the rock. He simply rocked himself to and
fro, exclaiming : 'We are lost! we are lost! the Meoko people
will kill and eat us all.' I have talked with this man, and
without any hesitation he related to me the whole circumstances
over again, not omitting his share of the performance.

" Let this one instance serve for an example in illustrating
the state of affairs in Maren, Outam, Waira, Makada, Blanche
Bay, Kabakada, Kininigunan, and all the petty little vills^es,
with their petty little chiefs, and petty concerns represented
by these district, names — for each of these names does duty
for dozens of such — and then think that die barriers which

GEORGE BROWN

then existed between town and town, village and village,
chief and chief, district and district, are in the majority of
cases swept away for ever, and in others they are fast giving
place to more enlightened views. Yesterday I saw men
from almost every village in Duke of York ; men from
Kabakada, Matupit, and Kininigunan, New Britain ; men
from Topaia, and Lauru, New Ireland ; in all about 500
people, sitting together in Mr. Brown's yard, assembled there
for the express purpose of bidding Mr. Brown good-bye.
Not a dozen weapons were to be seen, except what were
brought by them to Mr. Brown as presents. These are
sober facts which speak for themselves, with a trumpet-like
voice proclaiming the good work which has been accomplished,
and the new and better state upon which the people of
these islands are entering. All this in five years ! Thank
God ! To Him be all the glory, who has thus acknowledged
and honoured the labours of His servants."

A few days later, January 15, 1881, Mr. Danks wrote
an account of the meeting to which he alludes in the closing
paragraph just quoted. This letter, which appeared in Tfu
Weekly Advocate of March 12, contains a long and interesting
account of the meeting, and also of some of the principal
characters who took part in it ; but I only give the following
extracts, as showing the feelings of the people towards us,
and our relationship to them in the closing days of our life
amongst them. Mr, Danks says :

" As soon as it became known to the Duke of Yorkites
that Mr. Brown was in truth about to leave them, the chiefs
held a meeting, and it was then and there decided that some-
thing ought to be done to convince Mr. Brown that they
' had some love to him,' and that they much regretted his
departure from them. Thus far they were agreed, but the
next question was, 'What shall we do to show our love?*
Here was a difficulty ; some proposed one thing, some
another, until at last they almost got into a hopeless state of
confusion. They wanted to do something striking and grand,

THIRD TERM OP RESIDENCE 403

and how to do it was the bunUng question of the day. At
last, by sheer downright hard thinking, assisted by mudi
chewing of betel-nut, and such condiments as 'daka and
kabag,' and also a few hints, it was decided that a meeting
should be held, at which all the people who felt so inclined
should assemble to say good-bye to the missionary — ' Ba I
wan kon dat' — who was about to leave them. Mr. Brown
fixed the day on which he would meet them, and from that
day preparations went forward right merrily. Snares were
set and pigs caught, and then conveyed as presents to
Mr. Brown ; fowls were taken in the net and served in the
same manner. Trips were made to different parts of the
groups to purchase food and presents ; also to spread
the news that on such and such a day the people would
assemble to bid Mr. Brown good-bye. All Duke of York
knew it; it was in every one's mouth, and admiring crowds
stood round each present of a pig as it was brought and
laid before Mr. Brown, each (both pig and people) doii^-
his best to add to the continued noise and confusion which
has prevailed for the last few days.

"... At last the long-looked-for day arrived. The morning
was rather cloudy, but still the rain kept off, and altc^ther
we had a fine day. Early, very early, on Friday mornii^
December 31, 1880, we heard much squealing and noise all
around our house, which assured us that the congenial task,
to the people, of .slaughtering pigs had begun. Then much
hurrying to and fro, calls for hot water, then much chopping
of wood, speedily followed by many clouds of smoke convinced
us that short work was being made of that part of the
business. If ' many hands make light work,' then their task
was light enough ; moreover, their hearts were in it, and
pigs at the end of it At about 12 o'clock the people hcgjiM
to assemble, and soon the meeting began. It was opened
by a Fijian ' meke,' composed for the occasion, being performed
by the teachers. . . .

" Among the assembly were not a few real live Duke of

404

GEORGE BROWN

York celebrities, men who have played a very important part
both in the history of the island and our work here, whose
favour it was necessary to secure in the early days of this
mission ; men who now bewail the loss of ' the good old
times ' when they could not go past their own doorstep in
safety without being fully armed, when young men gloried
in using the spear, the sling, and the tomahawk, when
cannibal feasts were rife, and no man needed to be ashamed
of having killed his neighbour — men, the last of thetr kind
on Duke of York, who are fast passing away. . . .

"At the conclusion of the Fijian 'meke' Mr. Brown
addressed the assembled multitude in, as near as I can
remember, the following words : ' You men of Kinawanua,
Molot, and all places on Duke of York, also you from New
Britain and New Ireland, listen to my words this day. My
heart is full of love towards you all, and I am glad to sec
you sitting together to-day. I remember that formerly you
did not assemble yourselves together thus. I remember that
formerly you had very little love to each other. I see .some-
thing new and good to-day in your conduct, and I am glad.
I thank you for the love you have shown to me in thus
coming to say good-bye. My word to you is, don't forget me
when I am gone from you. I shall never forget you, and
will always pray to Him who made us all, and eisk Him to
give you all good things. Don't forget the "lotu," and all it
has done for you. We, God's servants, arc here from love
to you. We do not come to you and ask you to sell us
your lands, your copra, and your goods ; but we ask you
to be good to each other, and serve in truth your God, and love
your Saviour, Jesus Christ. All you people, think of the past,
how you used to fight each other, and now you sit together in
peace without fear. Think, do not forget, how we have tried
to teach you all to be better men and women. I hope God will
always be with you, and make you glad in your hearts by
teaching you to walk in the good, straight road. I desire to see
you atl in heaven ; be good, do good and we shall meet there.'

I
I

405

"When Mr, Brown sat down Waniwarum sprang vtp and
shouted out from the other end .of the ground : ' Misa Brown,
you are going from us — ^we are sorry for ourselves. Think
of us with pity to-day. Misa Brown, you have loved us all
here at Kinawanua and Molot. Our hearts are heavy to-^y.
We are afraid because our enemies will now think we ace
weak, and will make war upon us as in the former day&
Mba Brown, you are going away, and our hearts are hesvy^ '
Misa Brown, we will not forget you and your love to va^.
It is I who say it — we are sorry you are leaving us.'

" Nothing now remained to be done but to serve out
the food, which was quickly done by the teachers, and
all went away quite satisfied, each carrying away some
thing from the feast which his own generosity had helped tD
furnish.

"This meeting must ever remain in our memories as a.
unique one. We may hold others when other missionaries
retire from the field, but this is the first, and is invested witib
an interest peculiar to itself. That from 400 to 500 peopiit
assembled from all parts of the group simply to say good-
bye to Mr. Brown is a pleasing fact, by far surpassing the
most sanguine anticipations of our most sanguine brother irilO
has just gone from us."

We left New Britain in the mission schooner /oAu Hunt,
on January 4, 1881. There was naturally great excitemeat
as we went on board, and we were all of us, I think, very glad
when we were fairly out to sea. I could not help contrasting
the difference in the people, as manifested by their sorrow at
our departure, with the indifference with which they treated
us on our first arrival amongst them. For many months after
the commencement of our Mission I scarcely dared to hope that
we would see the triumphs of the Gospel, which were so evident
in Fiji and our older districts, repeated in New Britain. iJENtt
God had been very good to us, better than all our boding feais,
and we had tiie groat aatiafaction <A feelii^ as tibe slKHres of

4o6

GEORGE BROWN

New Britain receded from us, that we had not laboured in vain
nor spent our stren^h for nought.

Our party consisted of my wife and' I and one child, the
remains of the other two of our much-loved children being
left behind in a little cemetery on the shore of Port Hunter.
Then we had Peni Lelei, his wife and child ; and Timot, a
native of New Britain, who was going with us for the purpose
of helping in translation work. We had also Itione and wife,
a Samoan couple who came with us from that district. The
John Hunt was not at all a comfortable vessel for such a
large party, as she was only a small schooner used for inter-
island work in Fiji, Captain Martin, however, did all he could
to make us comfortable, and we had a fairly good passage to
Sydney, at which port we arrived on February 2, just before
the closing sessions of the New South VV'ale^ and Queensland
Conference of that >'ear. I was able to be present at them,
and received a very kind and hearty reception from my
brethren.

Our home-coming was saddened by the information of the
serious illness of our brother-in-law, the late Rev. W. Fletcher.
B.A.I who had always taken a very deep interest in our work,
and who with his wife and some of their children accompanied
us on our pioneer voyage in 1875.

As soon as wc were settled I began the work of translating
one of the Gospels into the Duke of York language, I was
very anxious indeed that this should be done, not only for the
spiritual benefit of the people to whom it would be sent, but
also as recording ihc results of our first studies of the language.
I found Peni very useful in this work. He had, fortunately,
some knowledge of English, and was also remarkably quick and
intelligent. It was a great joy to me when this translation of
the Gospel of St. Mark, the first one which had ever been
made into any of the languages or dialects of New Britain,
was in the hands of the natives, and it was also a great joy
to me to receive from teachers and others testimonies as to
its value. Some years afterwards when I revisited New Britain

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 407

I was delighted to hear men' and women and hoys and girls
reading the wondrous story of God's love a>ntained in that
Gospel as fluently as we ourselves can read our own Bibles.
I gratefully remembered that only a few years before the
alphabet of that language had never been written, nor had the
Gospel ever been preached amongst those people, and I felt
very thankful to God that He in His infinite love had privileged
me to take some part in that great work.

My time in Australia was fully taken up, not only in
translation work, but also in very extensive deputation work,
in several colonies. Our people were naturally anxious to know
the particulars of our Mission, and as I had a fine colleague
in the person of Peni Lelei, we were always kept hard
at work.

In May 1881 I attended the General Conference, which wras
held in Adelaide that year, and which will always be associated
with the sad death of the late Rev. J. Waterhouse and son,
Revs. J. B. Richardson and J. Armitage, and Messrs. E. Mitchell
and E. Connall, representatives from New Zealand, who were
drowned in the wreck of the Tararua on their way to the
Conference. At this Conference the question of the propriety
or otherwise of the action we had been compelled to take in
New Britain was again under consideration. I was not, of
course, put on my trial in any way, but it was felt by some
that I had a right to ask the General Conference, which
represents the whole of our Church, for an expression of its
views, and that the Conference had either to censure or express
their approval. I stated in reply that I then thought it right
that I should know whether I had the confidence of the
Conference or not. I had up to that time been content quietly
to suffer, and felt that I had not said enough in defence of the
course which we had pursued. I had a very kind reception by
the Conference when I rose to give them a plain, unvarnished
statement of the case. I fully commended those who differed
from me for the frank expression of their views. I stated that I
was quite aware that I had laid myself open to criticism, and that

GEORGE BROWN

it was quite right that I should be criticised. I maintained that
I had not comnnitted an error of judgment, nor had I pursued
a poh'cy of retaliation. \ said that a great many people had
told me what I ought not to have done, but that no one had
ever yet told me what I should have done in the circumstances
in which we were placed, and I asked any of my critics to be
kind enough to tell me then. I told the Conference that the
only alternative of the action we had taken was that I should
have taken care of myself and my family, and the few people
around us on the mi.ssion station at Port Hunter, and have left the
teachers, their wives and families, and the few white men and
one white woman on New Britain, to be murdered in detail
by a set of savages who had never even heard of the Gospel
of Christ ; and I asked whether they would have commended
me if I had done so. I stated that had I pursued the only
other policy which was practicable I would have been ashamed
ever to stand before the Conference, or before any other body
of my fellow-countrymen, and that my children would have had
reason to blush when their father's name was mentioned. I
then gave the details of our expedition, which I need not repeat
here.

The Conference ultimately passed the following resolution :
" That this Conference has heard with deepest regret the Mission
Secretary's account of the New Britain massacre and the
expedition which followed it, and hereby expresses its tenderest
sympathy with the Rev. G. Brown in his great peril in that
massacre, and his embarrassment in having to provide so
suddenly the needed adequate means for the safety of the
mission party. From the evidence now before us, and which
we have carefully examined, it fully appears to us that in the
judgment of the natives themselves Mr. Brown acted justly,
and while reaffirming, in view of the wide discussion which is
being carried on in reference to this case, the principle which
underlies all our missionary operations, that military enterprises
cannot be sanctioned in their conduct, it records its judgment
that in the present case Mr. Brown acted in defence of the

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 409

mission teachers and their families, and has not violated the
regulations of our missionary work, and retains the full
confidence of this Conference" This was, of course, quite
satisfactory, and as it assured me of the continued con-
fidence of my brethren, it enabled me to continue my work
in the advocacy of the claims of our missions upon the
sympathies and support of our Methodist Churches,

A few months after this Conference the Missionary Society
had to deplore the loss of the Rev. B. Chapman, the General
Secretary of the Society, on September 10. I was deeply
grieved when 1 saw the notice in the Sydney Morning Herald
of Monday, September 12, that one whom I had learned to
respect and love during the years in which he had so ably filled
the office of General Secretary, had been called away so
suddenly. I was naturally brought into very close association
with Mr. Chapman during the inception of the New Britain
Mission, and during the whole of the time we lived in that
group. I always found him not only willing, but anxious, to
assist us to the full extent of his power, and during the time
of my serious illness in Sydney he manifested the deepest
sympathy, and did all that was in his power to help me, I
was closely associated with him and the Rev. W. Clarke in
the deputation to Tonga, and I well remember the great
kindness which he manifested towards me in Fiji a few
weeks afterwards. I thoroughly endorse some remarks in the
notice of his death, that, "he was an efficient manager of the
business immediately connected with his office, and his general
disposition secured him many friends." Amongst the number
of these it was my great privilege to be included. The President
of the Conference decided, at the request of the Board of
Missions, to act as Missionary Secretary until the Conference,
and I was then appointed to assist htm in conducting the affairs
of the office. I little thought that a few years later I should
be called upon to occupy the position which I have now held
for twenty-one years.

I continued in deputation work until the Conference of 1883,

4IO

GEORGE BROWN

when I received an inntation from the Bourke Street Circuit to
accept an appointment as second minister, under the superin*
tendency of the Rev, W. Clarke. This came as a complete
surprise to me, and I naturally felt great diffidence in accepting
the invitation to such a large and important circuit as Bourke
Street was in those days. I have never forgotten the kindness
with which I was received both by ministers and people. In
1884 I was appointed by the Conference, on an invitation from
the Quarterly Meeting, to the superintendency, and I continued
there until the completion of the full term in 1886. I had
already decided, before the completion of my term of service
in this the first, and as it proved to be the only home circuit
to which I was ever appointed, to visit England, and this I
did the same year, leaving Sydney in the Mariposa, Cap-
tain Hayward, on April 22, 1884. We had a large company
on board, including General Fremantle, the late Sir James
Service and family, and the late Sir Anthony Musgrave,
Governor of Queensland, and family. My travelling com-
panion was the Rev. Dr. W^ H. Fitchett, ex-President of the
Genera! Conference, who was then visiting the homeland for
the first time. 1 need not say that the pleasure of my journey
to my native land after thirty-one years' absence was much
enhanced by the genial company of my dear friend. I, in
common with, 1 think, all on board, have none but the most
pleasant memories of our voyage to San Francisco. We called
at many places of interest on our journey across the American
continent, and in due time reached England. 1 had a very
kind reception at the Mission House, especially from the late
Revs. Dr. Kilner and Dr. Jenkins, who did all in their power
to make my stay as pleasant as possible.

My first public introduction to British Methodism was at the
Conference Missionary Meeting, which was held that year (1886)
in Great Queen Street Church, London. I was, of course, not
known to any of the large audience, and I fancy very few of
them knew that there was such a place in the world as New
Britain, There were six speakers, and Dr. Kilner had warned

THIRD TERM OF RESIDENCE 411

us very emphatically that no speaker was to exceed twenty
minutes ; so I was not a little surprised to find that the two
gentlemen who preceded me each occupied at least half an
hour. When I was called upon, I utilised my time, without
any preliminary remarks, by giving an account of our first
landing in New Britain, and some of the incidents connected
with our first year's work. It was soon very apparent
that many in the audience were deeply interested. I was in
the midst of telling them one of the most exciting incidents
connected with our mission, when Waruwarum wished to take
one of his wives from under our care for the purpose of
cooking her, to which proceeding we strongly objected, when I
noticed that my allotted time had expired. I stopped suddenly,
and stated that I must defer the completion of my story till
some other time. There was at once great excitement in the
audience, and cries from all parts for me to " go on " ; and the
President, who occupied the chair, asked me to do so. I rose,
however, and said that I had done the best I could do in the
time allotted to me, and declined to take from the succeeding
speakers the time which was justly theirs. I sat down, but had
to rise again at the request of the President. I did not resume
my story, but simply told the audience that I was from
Australia ; that we in Australia were accustomed to obey
orders ; and that I intended to obey those which I had received
in England. I felt afterwards that I perhaps made too sweeping
an assertion in one of these latter statements, and for this I must
pray to be forgiven. The meeting was, however, a very good
introduction, and during the next few days I had many requests
from the brethren who were gathered to the Conference from
all parts of England to visit them in their Circuits.

I visited my native town and had a very kind reception
from many who knew and loved my father, and who also
remembered me in the earlier years of my life. I preached in
the Wesleyan Chapel on the Sunday morning to a large con-
gregation, in which several denominations were included, and
in the evening I preached to a similar congregation in the

412

GEORGE BROWN

Brown Memorial Church, erected to the memocy of my late
father.

During the few months which I spent in England I vbitcd
some of our principal Circuits, and also gave several addresses
in Lx)ndon. Many kind things were said to me in the different
places which I visited, but at this time I only remember some
remarks made by the late Rev. T. Champness, which I have
always considered to be the highest compliment I ever received.
He was a good man, and the story which I was privileged
to tell to him and his large family was always remembered
by them, and some time afterwards we received from the
Joyful News Mission one of their best workers, who for some
years was supported by them in New Ireland.

I left England in December, and returned by way of America,
in accordance with some promises which I had made when
passing through that country. I visited some of the principal
cities, and then went to Montreal, where I was very kindly
received by the late S. Finley, Esq., and his family. During my
stay in that city it was my great privilege to meet the great
Dr. Douglas, of the Wesleyan Theological College, and also to
address the students there. 1 need not give the particulars of
the return journey, though it was full of interest to me, visiting,
as I did, some of the places in Canada where I had lived when
quite a young man some thirty-five years before. The town
in which I lived was, at that time, quite a backwoods township ;
but now I found it to be a large city, and I could scarcely
recognise a single feature of the place.

1 travelled by the Canadian Pacific Railway in mid-winter.
This might be considered a trying experience to one who had
spent so many years of his life in the tropics ; but I thoroughly
enjoyed the whole of the journey, though we had to face a
blizzard of exceptional severity, which delayed us at one place
on the prairies for at least three days, and which also occasioned
great loss of life in the districts through which we travelled.
The thermometer registered 45 degrees below zero during the
time we were icebound at Swift Current Station, and the wind

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THIRD TE^M OF RlBSIDENCE 413

was travdUing at the rate of 41 miles per hour. The extreme
cold in Canada can be easily borne, and even enjoyed, so long
as the weather is calm and clear, but extreme cold with strong
winds is not at all pleasant At Swift Current Station some of
the passengers in the train came and asked me if I would give
them a lecture to relieve the monotony of the situation. This I
readily agreed to do. We went into a large building which had
been erected for the use of the gangs of men who were trying to
clear the track of snow and ice. There were two large stoves in
the room, which were red hot, but the cold was so intense that
the people present could not remain on the seats for any length
of time, and most of them soon stood in two clusters close
to the stoves. I lectured for about an hour and a half on New
Britain, a country where there was no winter, and where the
clothing of the people often consisted only of a string of beads.
I received very hearty thanks, and next morning the few traders
who were living near the station brought me presents of
mocassins, belts, etc., made by the Blackfeet Indians, in whose
territory we then were. We reached Vancouver several days
late, and I was afraid that I should not reach San Francisco
in time to catch the out-going boat to Australia. I had to
proceed by steamer from Vancouver to San Francisco. On
my arrival at the latter port I was delighted to find that the
vessel had been detained several days waiting for the mails,
which had been delayed by heavy snow storms.

On reaching Auckland in the Mariposa I found, to my great
surprise, that I had been appointed by the New South Wales
and Queensland Conference to the position of General Secretary
of Missions. Whilst I felt very grateful for this honour,
especially as the election had taken place during my absence in
England, and without any solicitation on my part, I felt very
deeply the great responsibility which the position imposed upon
me. I determined, however, that, by God's help, the experience
and knowledge which I had acquired during the y^u-s of my
mission life should be consecrated to His service in the new
office to which I was appointed by my brethren.

414

GEORGE BROWN

We reached Sydney on March 14, 1887, and I had again

the pleasure of meeting my dear wife and children, and uniting
together in thanks to God for His goodness to them and
myself.

I took over the business of the Mission Office on April
1887, from the late Rev. Dr. Kelynack, who retired from the
position on account of health. It was, I felt, no light task to
succeed a man so eminently gifted and of such high standing in
our Church as Dr. Kelynack was. In addition to the regular
work of the Mission Office at that time, the position involved
very extensive deputation work in all the States, and this,
of course, necessitated long absences from home. This was only
rendered possible by the valuable help of the late Rev. J. B.
Waterhouse, who not only relieved me from most of the work in
connection with the accounts, but was abo always ready to take
charge of the office during my long absences on deputation
work. 1 cannot speak too highly of the services which were
rendered to the Missionary Society and myself by Mr, Water-
house during all the earlier years of my work as General
Secretary. He was a kind and loving friend, and 1 could
always depend upon the help of his wise counsel and advice
in any difficulty which 1 had to encounter. He never speired
himself in his endeavours to carry on the business of the
Mission Office, and I always felt that the help which he so
freely rendered was considered by him as a privilege conferred
upon him. The years of our friendship were amongst the very
brightest of my experiences.

TONGAN AFFAIRS

TONGA N AFFAIRS

Soon after my appointment as General Secretary the troubles
in Tonga became very acute. I have a large amount of material
connected with that matter in my possession, and I think at some
future time the whole story should be told, as an act of simple
justice to the noble men, women, and children who remained
faithful to the Methodist Church in spite of the cruel persecutions
to which they were subjected. I here simply give a few facts,
and a short account of my appointment as special commissioner
to Tonga, and my experiences whilst occupying that position.

It is very difficult to ascertain the origin of the troubles in
Tonga which eventuated in the secession of 1885. There is
little doubt, however, that prior to the Rev. J. E. Moulton's visit
to England in 1878, Mr. Baker had become very jealous of Mr.
Moulton's influence with the people, and of his close friendship
with King George, and that he did his best during Mr. Moulton's
absence to ingratiate himself with the King, and as far as
possible to make it apparent that his own services were indis-
pensable to his Majesty.

In 1874 the Tonga Home Mission and Contingent Fund was
formed, in accordance with the wishes of the Tongan Govern-
ment and the District Meeting. This was approved of by the
Conference of 1875, and also by the General Conference; and
the decision must evidently have satisfied the King, as in the
following year he signed a lease granting to four trustees for a
term of ninety-nine years the properties then occupied by
the Wesleyan Church.

4«7 27

4i8

GEORGE BROWN

In 1879 complaints reached the Mission Board of certain
objectionable actions done, it was asserted, by Mr. Baker's
authority, for the purpose of increasing the amount of missionary
contributions in Tonga. A deputation was sent to Tonga to
investigate the matter, and, as a result of the report given, Mr.
Baker was recalled by the Conference of 1880^ and received
permission to rest for one year and to reside in New Zealand.
This action greatly displeased King George, and he forwarded
a letter to the Conference requesting that the Tongan Church
should no longer be subject to the Board of Missions, but that
it should be an independent District, responsible direct to the
Conference, as the Districts in the colonies were, and promising
that Tonga would then support the European missionaries and
other agents, without being dependent upon the Missionary
Society for any pecuniary help.

At the Conference of 1881 Mr. Baker appeared to answer
the charges the Board of Missions formulated against him.
The result was that he was asked to resign, and after considera-
tion he sent in his resignation, which was accepted by the
Conference ; and the record appears in the Minutes of Con-
ference that, " S. W. Baker, having accepted office under the
Tongan Government, voluntarily retires from our work." At
this same Conference the Rev. J. B. VVatkin, who was then
Chairman of the Tongan District, was appointed to a colonial
circuit, and the Rev. }. £. Moulton was appointed as Chairmanfl
of that District. This, as will be seen afterwards, very nnuch
angered the King, Mr. Baker, and some of the chiefs.

At the General Conference which was held in Adelaide some
three months after, the recommendations which the New South
Wales Conference had made, in order to carry out the request
of King George and the wishes of the Tongan District Meeting,—
were submitted ; and it was resolved : " That the recommenda--|
tions be agreed to, and that from and after December 31, 1 88 1 ,
the Friendly Islands District be no longer under the Board of
Missions, but that it be a District in connection with the New
South Wales and Queensland Conference." It was also directed

TONGAN AFFAIRS 419

that a suitable letter should be forwarded to the King, informing
him of the pleasure the General Conference had in acceding to his
request. The conclusion arrived at, it was thought, would be
highly gratifying to his Majesty : and with this conviction the
Conference closed its sittings on May 28. At the close of this
Conference the President received a telegram from Mr. Baker
in Auckland, stating that the King and chiefs were enraged at
Mr. Watkin's recall, that they had decided to establish a National
Church, and to get Mr. Watkin as the first minister ; that the
King's ultimatum was that Tonga should be an independent
District attached to New Zealand ; and that Mr. Watkin should
be reinstated. In the event of these demands not being complied
with, there would be secession.

As it was known in Tonga that the General Conference was
finished before the telegram reached Adelaide, the threatened
secession was apparently deferred ; and in the meantime Mr.
Moulton requested permission from the President of the Con-
ference to agree to a request from the King that the Rev. J. B.
Watkin should remain in Tonga, and be appointed to a circuit,
as it was thought that this concession would allay trouble. This
was agreed to, and Mr. Watkin proceeded to his appointment.
The policy of the Government, however, assumed an aspect
decidedly antagonistic to our Church work.

At the General Conference of 1884 another communication
was received from the King, and the resolutions of the New
South Wales and Queensland Conference were considered. A
minority of the members, amongst whom I was one, urged the
Conference most earnestly to agree to the King's request, and
to appoint Mr. Moulton to a colonial circuit for awhile. We
did this, not because we considered Mr. Moulton to be guilty
of the charges which Mr. Baker had made against him, or
because we justified the action of the King in insisting upon
his recall, but because it was very evident to us that under the
strained relationships which existed between Mr. Baker and
Mr. Moulton that Mr. Moulton could not effectively carry on
his work. We also believed, from our personal knowledge of

420

GEORGE BROWN

Mr. Baker's character, and the position which the King had
assumed, that secession would inevitably follow the refusal of
the request preferred, and that in such a case the great majority
of the people would certainly follow their King. This last
opinion was not, however, shared by some of the missionaries
present, but subsequent events fully justified our belief. The
General Conference, however, decided against the recall of
Mr. Moulton, but appointed a strong deputation, consisting of
the late Revs. John Watsford, Dr. Langham and W. T.
Rabone, to visit Tonga. In the meantime, however, Mr. Baker,
taking advantage of a dispute between the native minister at
Haabai and some of the stewards with regard to the Church
services at that place, decided to start the Free Church. This
was done on January 4, 1885. The recommendations of the
deputation were practically that the Tongan District should be
separate from New South Wales, and be connected with the
Victoria and Tasmania Conference ; that Mr. Moulton should
be appointed to a circuit in New South Wales ; that Mr. Watkin
be allowed to withdraw his resignation, and to remove from
Tonga to a colonial circuit. It was this last recommendation
that Mr. Baker objected to, stating that the King would never
consent to Mr. W'atkin's removal.

The question of the removal of both Mr. Watkin and Mr.
Moulton from Tonga, and their appointment to colonial
circuit.s, was really the great difficulty in arriving at any
satisfactory settlement. Mr. Baker and the King were resolved
that Mr. Watkin should remain, but the members of the
deputation felt that it was neither fitting nor right to appoint
as chairman of the District a minister who had so recently
resigned his position as a minister of the Conference, and who,
in the opinion of the deputation, could have prevented the
separation altogether if he had earnestly desired to do so.

The report of the deputation was considered at the New
South Wales Conference of 1886, together with a letter from
the Tonga District Meeting, dated November 1885.
Conference, whilst recognising the ability and kindly

I
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TONGAN AFFAIRS 421

with which the members of the deputation had sought to
accomplish the difficult task assigned to them, declared that
as the quarterly meetings in Tonga and the annual District
Meeting strongly objected to the transference of Tonga to
another Conference, no change should for the present be made
in the connection of Tonga with the New South Wales and
Queensland Conference ; and that we should not withdraw our
agents from that District. It also, after anxious and prayerful
thought, recorded that, in view of the very decided objections
from the people and the District Meeting, and also for financial
and other reasons, it was compelled to dissent from the recom-
mendations in the report of the deputation, that the Rev. J. E.
Moulton should be removed from Tonga.

In 1887 an attempt was made by four escaped prisoners to
assassinate the Premier, Mr. S. W. Baker. This attack took
place on the evening of Thursday, January 13, 1887. The
assailants did not succeed in their attempt, but, most unfor-
tunately, Mr. Baker's son and daughter, who were with him at
the time in the buggy, were both wounded, the latter in her
attempt to shield her father from being shot. As a result of
this attack, not only did the Government issue orders for the
men in Tongatabu to assemble at Mua, but the King, by the
advice of Mr. Baker, and contrary to his own judgment, sent
for men from Haabai and Vavau to come armed to Tonga.
The arrival of these men was signalised by the indiscriminate
plunder of Wesleyans ; and in many cases the most brutal ill-
treatment accompanied the robbery. A number of the people
were arrested and tried for the attempted assassination of Mr.
Baker, and on February i six of these men were shot on
the Island of Malinoa. The whole story of this attempt at
assassination, the trial of the prisoners, the futile attempt made
to implicate the students of our College in the conspiracy, the
execution on Malinoa, and the sad sight witnessed there, cannot
be told here, but ought to be placed on record.

The next event was the arrival of His Excellency, Sir
Charles Mitchell, the High Commissioner for the Western

422

GEORGE BROWN

Pacific, who visited Tonga in obedience to telegraphic instruc-
tions from Sir H. Holland, to report on recent disturbances in,
and the affairs of, Tonga. His Excellency arrived at Nukualofa
on March 27, 1887, and after a most exhaustive inquiry
left for Fiji about April 26. His report was presented to both
Houses of Parliament by command of Her Majesty, in July
1887. The conclusions which His Excellency arrived at were,
that the constitution of Tonga had been, in the course of the
recent events, utterly set aside, and the King's will substituted
therefor ; that the theory and system of worship so clearly
laid down in the Constitution had been practically a dead
letter from the moment the King determined to support the
Free Church ; that the statement of the King having declared
that war existed at Mua was, in his, Sir Charles Mitchell's
opinion, an after-thought ; that neither the Cabinet, Privy
Council, nor the Legislature was consulted then or thereafter;
that the King, acting on Mr. Baker's advice, was alone
responsible for all that followed ; that although there were no
direct proofs that either of them encouraged the chiefs in their
acts of lawlessness^ there was also no direct proof that they
exerted themselves to repress them. His Excellency also
stated : " I shuuld, undoubtedly, have exercised the power
vested in nie, under the Western Pacific Order in Council, of
prohibiting Mr. Baker from remaining in Tonga for a period,
had it not been that I felt that his presence with the King
would, after the warning which my visit to Tonga had given, be
the best means of preserving peace. 1 therefore determined on
writing to the King, and advising him at once to take steps
to reverse his former action, and to restore to the Wcsleyans
their religious privileges ; also to take steps to restrain the
action of the chiefs ; and I decided to show the King that the
retention of Mr. Baker in Tonga would greatly depend on what
the terms of the answer to my letter should be." The letter
which is mentioned above was sent by His Excellency to the
King on April 25, and on the 26th a reply was received from
him which practically accepted all the suggestions made.

TONGAN AFFAIRS 423

The purport of this letter was also communicated by His

Excellency to the President of the New South Wales and

Queensland Conference, and in his unofficial letter he directed

attention to the request made by His Majesty, King GeoigCi

in reply to a letter from His Excellency, saying that " if your

Excellency would kindly initiate negotiations with the Wesleyan

Church in the colonies on the plan proposed by the New

Zealand Conference, I should be glad; and that is my mind."

His Excellency also expressed the hope "that the Committee

will take such steps as may appear to tend in the direction of

reuniting the Tongan Wesleyans to the mother Society." In

another part he says that his "object is to see whether the

Tongans can be reunited to the parent Society, and that

speedily." He also expressed the opinion that "the present

opportunity, if promptly seized, will in all probability afford

the best chances of reunion that may occur for years." On

receipt of this communication the Committee of Privileges of

the New South Wales and Queensland Conference was convened,

and decided that a deputation consisting of the President, the

Rev. W. G. R. Stephenson, an old Tongan missionary, Mr. P. P.

Fletcher, and myself, should visit Tonga.

In accordance with these instructions, we left Sydney on
July 13, 1887. The President returned by the same steamer.
Mr. Fletcher and I remained, and had many meetings, both
forma] and otherwise, with the representatives of the Free
Church and our own people. Our report was considered at
the Conference of 1888, and a series of resolutions were moved
by Rev. J. B. Waterhouse, to the effect that the time had not
yet arrived for constituting the Wesleyan Church in Tonga
a separate and independent Conference, and that the unanimous
desire of. the quarterly meetings in Tonga for the retention
of Mr. Moulton should be respected. To this I moved an
amendment, to the effect that the Conference cannot consent
to withdraw from Tonga, or abandon our people ; that it
expresses its deep sympathy with Mr. Moulton, but that, "in
view of &cts which have been presented to Conferencic^ that

424

GEORGE BROWN

the King is so strongly opposed to Mr. Moulton's continued
residence in Tonga, and that there is but little hope of his
opposition being withdrawn, or of this grievous wound to our
Church being healed, so long as Mr. Moulion remains in Tonga,
the Conference, without in any way justifying this opposition,
or approving of the actions which have been taken, resolves that
the recommendations of the deputation to Tonga of the last
General Conference be complied with, and that the request of
the Rev. J, E. Moulton for permission to return to the colonies
be granted, and that a minister be appointed who shall
devote htmself to the work of reuniting the two Churches, and
promoting peace and harmony in the group." The amendment
also declared that, subject to certain clearly defined conditions,
the General Conference be requested to constitute Tonga an
Annual Conference, in connection with the Australasian General
Conference.

After long and interesting debates the first two amendments
which I proposed were carried unanimous!)', but those proposing
the honourable recall of the Rev. J. E. Moulton, with a view
to the appointment of another minister, were lost by 74 to 31
votes.

At the General Conference held in Melbourne in May 1888
the difficulty in Tonga was fully considered. The discussion
thereon excited great interest throughout the country. I have
never known the sessions of any General Conference to be so
largely attended by the general public as they were during the
discussion of this difficult question. On Monday and Tuesday,
May 14 and 15, the body of the church behind the bar of the
Conference was quite full of interested li.steners, and the
galleries also contained a large number. The President read
a letter which he had received from the Premier of Tonga,
presenting to the General Conference a request from His
Majesty, King George^ that the Tonga Free Church be
acknowledged as an independent annual Conference, in con-
nection with the General Conference of the Wesleyan Church,
on the same tines as New Zealand and the other Con-

TONGAN AFFAIRS 425

ferences. The letter also requested the removal of the
Rev. J. E, Moulton and Rev. E. E. Crosby, B.A,

I do not think it necessary to give any long account of the
speeches made, and the reasons advanced by the advocates
of the respective resolutions and amendments. The position
was a very critical one, as the General Conference appeared to
be practically divided into two camps. A large and important
section, more especially in the New Zealand, and Victoria and
Tasmania Conferences, was strongly opposed to the action of
the New South Wales Conference on some questions of its
policy with regard to Tonga, and more especially to the
retention of the Rev. J. E. Moulton ; and at one time there
appeared to be considerable danger of this matter causing
a breach between the respective Conferences,

The Rev. G. Lane moved the resolutions of the New South
Wales Conference. Mr. J. Callaghan moved a series of amend-
ments, which were afterwards withdrawn in favour of other amend-
ments which were moved by the Rev. W. H. Fitchett. The
debate which followed was a very exciting one. The conflict of
opinion was mainly centred on the question of the continuance
of the Rev. J. E. Moulton in Tonga, or his appointment to a
circuit in the home work.

Whilst the debate was in progress it became evident to all
those who were interested in the preservation of peace in our
Church that some arrangement should be made which would
prevent the question of Mr. Moulton 's removal, or otherwise,
being determined by a vote of the Conference, as such a vote
would inevitably be regarded by the New South Wales and
Queensland Conference as one expressing want of confidence
in their administration of Tongan affairs, whilst it was at the
same time apparent that a large number of the members of the
General Conference were fully persuaded that in the interests
of peace some change should be made. A meeting was held
on the subject, and when the debate was resumed, the Rev.
J. E. Moulton gave an address, the report of which I extract
from The Weekly Advocate of May 26, as it was principally for

426

GEORGE BROWN

the reasons adduced by Mr. Moulton that my appointment was
made :

" The Rev. J. E. Moulton then said it was a very great
temptation to him to take up the time of the Conference that
afternoon in replying to the personal remarks, and in repudi-
ating the many charges without foundation that had been laid
against him. However, he thought in the present state of
affairs it would be better to let them go by, and live them down
where they really existed. He might say, in examining the
amendment of Mr. Fitchett, it struck him as a step in the right
direction. He did not agree with the whole of it He did not
agree with that portion referring to his resignation. He dis-
agreed with that m toto. He should not have been unfavourable
to that step had it not been for the letter of Mr. Shirley Baker.
It would be proving the assertions in that letter if he consented
to do so. If ihcy read Sir Charles Mitchell's report they would
see that the good order and peace of Tonga might be attribu-
table to him (Mr. Moulton). He liked very much the idea of that
commission which the amendment proposed to appoint to be
sent to Tonga. The amendment also recognised that the wishes
of the people should be consulted, and that they should not be
pledged ttolcns voUns to the Free Church. He would like them
to understand clearly that his resistance to the proposal that he
should withdraw was not mere ' stonewalling,' as some of them
might imagine. Three times he had offered, if necessary, to
withdraw, but the suggestion had not been acted upon ; and
twice he had offered to do so if the Rev. George Brown was sent
to Tonga. He was not thinking of himself, but of those people
who had stood by them, and had shed their blood on behalf of
a principle, and their fidelity to the VVeslcyan Church ; and he
should never be a party to any vote that would abandon these
people. It was all very well for them to pass resolutions that
they should not abandon the people, and then practically to do
so. He was convinced that there was no one in this Conference
who could go to Tonga and do the work except Mr. Brown. In
saying this, some of them had said be was very foolish, as

I
I

Mr. Brown was regarded in Tonga as a Bakerittt. But he
(Mr. Moulton) knew Mr. Brown to be a thcHrough missionary,
who would shepherd his people, and would not allow their
rights to be taken away. Mr. Brown was a most capable
man, and though it would require another Baker to deal with
that gentleman — and he hoped the Lord would save Mr. Brown
from being that — ^yet Mr. Baker would have in Mr. Brown one of
the toughest morsels to deal with that ever he had. So that he
heartily concurred in the appointment of a Commissioner if that
officer was to be Mr. Brown. The difficulty in reference to
Church properties, he thought, could be overcome in a legal
way, and he would undertake to hold meetings, that all opposition
on the technical grounds would be swept away. Another reason
why he should not withdraw was that for many years he h
been engaged in creating a literature for Tonga. This
apart from the translation of the Scriptures, and referred to
literature of an instructive and educational character. If tlicy
appointed Mr. Brown as the Commissioner, he (Mr. Moultoa)
could retire for a time to do literary work, but in such a manner
that the people would feel that he still belonged to them ; awl
the next Conference could then decide what steps should be
taken."

The Rev. W. H. Fitchett then said he would withdraw hit
amendment, and substitute one which he thought would meet
with the approval of all, and on the lines of the statement made
by Mr. Moulton. The amendment, as altered by Mr. Fitchett,
was as follows :

" I. That the Conference records its deep sense of the
patience, zeal, and generous devotion with which the New Soudi
Wales Conference has administered Tongan affairs during the
trying events of the past three years. The members of the New
South Wales Conference have sustained, in behalf of the came
of Christ in Tonga, a burden of anxiety and toil which entitks
them to the sympathy and respect of the whole Methodist
Church.

**2, The Conference further reoogniaes the loyalty and

428

BROWN

courageous fidelity with which the Rev. J. E. Moutton has
laboured for the interest of the Methodist Church in Tonga, and
deeply sympathises with him on account of the trials and unjust
accusations to which he has been exposed. It records its sense
of his high character and great ability, and approves of the
request which he prefers to the New South Wales Conference,
through the President, to be allowed to devote himself to
literary work, in the shape of translations, etc., in connection
with the work in Tonga, in Sydney.

" 3. That the Rev. George Brown be sent to Tonga as the
Commissioner of this General Conference, with instructions
to inquire and report upon the best means of securing
honourable and lasting reunion with the Free Church in
Tonga, and generally to draw up a scheme for the permanent
settlement of our affairs there.

"4- That such report and recommendations shall be sub-
mitted to a committee, who shall be given charge of Tongan
affairs, and through it, and with such modifications as it may
deem necessary, be transmitted to the Annual Conferences
next ensuing, and if approved of by them, or by a majority
of them, shall be taken as sanctioned by this General Con-
ference ; and the President of this Conference shall be, and
hereby is, instructed to give effect to such plan."

It was suggested that there be no further speeches, and
the Rev. G. I.ane withdrew his motion, expressing his great
pleasure that .something of unanimity had been arrived at
I was called upon to speak, and as a matter of history, and
in justice to myself, I again quote from The Weekly AdvocaU
of the above date, the following account :

" The Rev. George Brown was then called upon to speak,
and said he was placed in a very difficult position that
afternoon, and he was not prepared to say what ought to
be his course in the matter. He saw a great many difficulties
in the way of the enforcement of this step. Whatever he
was known as in Tonga, he was not a Bakerite, and he
thought Mr. Baker would be the last to claim him as such.

TONGAN AFFAIRS 429

He could not yet say which way his duty was in this matter,
and it would depend on what the Conference said. He held
a very important post at present, and one in which he took great
pride. He was not, however, going to b^in at this time of
life to place himself in opposition to the vote of the Con-
ference, and what he wanted to know was that they approved
of the step. He did not want high expectations to be raised.
He was very well aware that if he did go to Tonga he might
be brought into collision with Mr. Baker. He quite expected
trouble, and could easily discern that it would require a great
deal of care and a great deal of forbearance to avoid a collision.
Besides, he was not certain that the plan proposed to be
adopted would be satisfactory to both parties, or to their
own people in Tonga. He was, therefore, a little troubled
lest the Conference should think, in appointing the Commission,
that they had arrived at a satisfactory conclusion, and that
all would be joy and peace and harmony. He very much
doubted whether that would be the case. He would have
to consult his wife about going; but he knew perfectly well
what her answer would be. He spoke under great emotion,
as he had been well treated by the Conference at all times,
and he felt a great weight of responsibility upon him. He
could not say the blame of any failure would be with them
if they sent him ; and it would not be with him, as he would
exert what ability and power he had."

Dr. Waugh then offered up a prayer of thanksgiving,
after which all present in the church joined in singing the
Doxology.

In accordance with the decision of the General Conference,
Mrs. Brown and I left Sydney on June 22, and arrived in
Auckland on Wednesday, the 27th. I called on Mr. Baker
several times during my stay, and found him, so far as I
could judge, very friendly disposed to myself personally ; in
fact, he several times expressed his satisfaction that I had
been i^tpointed. We left Auckland on July 33.. A goodly

430

GEORGE BROWN

number of kind friends came down to the wharf to assure
us of their sympathy with us in our mission. Amongst those
was the father of my good wife, the Rev. J. Wallis, who
after fifty-four years' service in New Zealand, was still able
to do some good work for God. Miss Bavin, daughter of
the Rev. Rainsford Bavin of Onehunga, accompanied us on
our voyage. She went to Tonga to take chaise of the school
for the children of the foreign residents there, Mr. Moulton
was very anxious that I should select some one for the work,
and we were very fortunate indeed in being able to secure
one who was in every respect so well qualified for the position.

We had a good passage to Fiji in the VVaimn', and reached
Suva at 8 p.m. on Saturday, July 28. We found our dear
old friend (the late Rev. Dr. Langham), the Chairman of the
Fiji District, on the wharf to welcome us. It was quite a
treat to see his pleasant face by the light of a large lantern,
which he swayed to and fro in the endeavour to distinguish
us amongst the crowd of passengers on the deck. Wc were
most hospitably welcomed and entertained by the Hon. Mr.
Duncan and the Rev. W. Gardiner, the Presbyterian minister
in Suva.

On the following Monday I had long conversations with
His Excellency, Sir J, B. Thurston, the Governor, an old
friend of mine, and one with whom I had often corresponded
on matters connected with the Islands. He was, naturally,
very interested indeed in the Tongan question, and expressed
himself very freely with regard to the best course of action
to be pursued by us. We left Levuka in the Southern Cross
for Tonga on August 3. Next day we called at Taveuni, the
following day at Lomaloma, and on August 7 reached Tonga.
We had a most kind and hearty welcome from Mr. and Mrs.
Moulton and family, and as soon as we were fairly in the
house a crowd of our people came in, all anxious to shake
hands with us, and assure us that they were glad indeed to
see us in Tonga. I was very kindly received by the Premier,
and also by the Rev. J. B. Watkin. I had an interview with

I
I

TONGAN AFFAIRS 431

the King on August 9. The Premier, of course, was present,
and at my request he kindly interpreted for me, as I had
not sufficient confidence then to air my Tongan before His
Majesty when Tongan scholars were j present, to whose voice
he was so well accustomed. I took with me for presentation
to His Majesty a portrait of himself, which was beautifully
enlarged by Mr. Newman of Sydney, from a photograph which
I took when in Tonga the previous year. He seemed pleased
with it, but, as usual in Tonga when a present is given, not
much attention was given to it in the presence of the donor.
I assured the King of the good wishes of the Conference, and
told him that I was fully prepared to do all that I possibly
could for the promotion of peace and harmony in Tonga, and
he was pleased to accept my assurance. The visit was simply
a formal one on my part, to present my respects to His
Majesty, as I did not feel free to go anywhere until that was
first done.

During the next few days several large presents of food
were brought to Mr. Moulton and family as an expression of
the love of the people for them. Some appropriate speeches
were made in giving the presents, to which Mr. Moulton replied
with deep feeling. On the evening of Friday, the lOth, a large
farewell meeting was held in Tubou College. It was a spacious
building, and, in fact, until the new church near it was built,
it could make a good claim to be the largest purely native
building in those groups. It was, however, packed to the doors,
and yet there was not room for the people, so that a large
number were congregated round the windows and doors. After
the singing of a number of songs, most of which were descriptive
of Mr. and Mrs. Moulton's work for Tonga, a few short speeches
were made, and then the people all came forward by villages
and gave a parting present to Mr. Moulton as an expression
of their esteem and love for himself and family. This certainly
showed that, whatever differences of opinion there might be
as to the policy pursued by Mr. Moulton, he and his family
had endeared themselves to the people by long years of earnest,

GEORGE BROWN

self-sacrificing work, by the constancy of their love, and the
devotion of their life to the best interests of the Tongan people
On the next day, Saturday, August ii, a large number of the
people assembled at the mission house, and accompanied the
party to the wharf. The women were precluded by Govern-
ment regulations from going on the wharf when a steamer was
alongside, so they had to say farewell at the gate& Every one,
botli young and old, wished to shake hands with each of the
party. After this somewhat trying ordeal was over, the men
together with a number of the foreign residents, proceeded to
the end of the wharf, where the Soutium Cross la\', with steam
up, all ready for the voyage. It must have been a severe trial
for Mr. Moulton to say good-bye to his people and to the
College lads, but it was said without any outward expression
of the emotion which was so deeply felt. Mrs. Moulton on
board, and most of us on the wharf, were visibly affected, but
Mr. Moulton and Mrs. Symonds, who stood by her father's side,
seemed determined to suppress all feeling which might be
construed by others as indicating consciousness of humiliation
or defeat. One of Mr. Moulton's own hymns was sung, which ■
was led by himself and Mrs. Symonds as the Southern Cross
moved away. And so, with many expressions of esteem, and
with much love following them, he and his family left the land
where for so many years they had done such good and noble
work for those people.

At this stage I find it utterly impossible, for want of space
to give a complete account of my work, and shall have to be
content with giving a very brief and imperfect rdsum6 of the
report which I furnished to the Committee on Tongan affairs,
and to the Conference. My first two reports were printed in a
pamphlet of fifty-one pages, for private circulation, and I subse-
quently furnished a third report on the conclusion of my
appointment. 1 have carefully preserved the correspondence
and the records of my work, and, should it ever be thought
desirable, the whole of the shameful story of the persecutions of
our people in Tonga, and their heroic endurance under most

LARGE TRILITHON AT MUA.
Wdghl of side stones about thirty-five t^nis each, hdithl t7 feet, top stone tnortlctd into
«Ide stones. Native name " Koe luuinumtra a Mjiiii," Ihe burden of Maui, ddc o( their deities.
No native kuom how they were got (rotii tlie sea lo the niiddle of the iatand ; why Ihcy were
ftloced there, or who were the men who erected Ihem, PiohnhXy a monuinest to one of the
Tul Tonga, sacred kings of Tonga, or a gattwiy to Ide burijil place of some o( the Mcrcd lilags.

SIDE VIEW OF THE ABOVE. SHOWING MORTICE.

; cruel and unjust treatment — most of which was instigj a
connived at by men who, by their nationality^, training, ana
early associations, should have been the friends and protectora
of the Tongan people — can readily be told again to the world.
But it is a sad story, and one we should all like to forget

Those who have read the preceding pages will readily
perceive that my position was a very difficult one. I knew that
the relations between the New South Wales and Queensland
Conference, and many influential ministers and laymen in the
other Conferences, had been very strained on the question of the
' policy of the New South Wales Conference in regard to the
retention of the Rev. Mr. Moulton in that District, and I deemed
it to be one of the principal objects of my mission to secure the
approval of all parties, and unanimity of thought and action in
Tongan affairs. The principles on which I determined to ac^
and by which, as a matter of fact, all my subsequent actions were
^vemed, were :

1. I determined to cultivate the most friendly relations
possible with the Rev. J. B. Watkin, the Hon. S. W. Baker,
ihe Premier, and with all the members of the Free Church
party.

2. That I would not concern myself with the past history of
the Tongan troubles, more especially of those which happened
I»ior to the investigation conducted by Sir C. Mitchell. My
policy, I decided, was to accept the present situation, and to do
what lay in my power to remedy the evils which existed. I
was not only willing, but anxious, that the past should all be
forgotten and forgiven.

3. That I would do all that I possibly could to assure
Hfa Majesty, and all the members of the Free Church, of
the earnest desire of the Conference that our Church la
Tonga should be reunited, and of our readiness to adopt and
sanction any right and proper plan which would conduce to
that end.

4. That I would endeavour in every possible way to
prepare our own. people for unuin with the Free Church party.

434

GEORGE BROWN

5. That though my own opinion was that Tonga was not
then far enough advanced to be constituted one of the Annual
Conferences in cx>nnection with the General Conference. I was
yet prepared to recommend, as the less of two evils, that tlus
request should be granted, and that if the other difficulties could
be settled and union effected, we should recognise the present
President of the Free Church and the native ministers as fully
accredited ministers of our Church,

6. That in all these matters it was essential that the feelings
and wishes of our own faithful people should be carefully
considered. I felt that the first thing to be done was to
promote a better state of feeling between the two Churches,
and in every way possible to lessen the existing breach,
and to promote friendly and brotherly intercourse between the
people.

In striving to carry out these ideas I first called on the Hon,
S. W. Baker and the Rev. J. B. Watkin in the evening of the
first day of my arrival in Tonga, and expressed to thera my
hearty wishes and intentions to work with them in every way
possible for the welfare of the Tongan people. I then called
upon the King, and assured His Majesty of the esteem anJ
respect of the Conference, and of our earnest desires for the
welfare of himself and people.

I found not only the people divided into VVesleyan and Free
Church, but the few whites were distinguished as being either
Moultonites or Bakcrttcs. Service was held on alternate
Sundays ; but when Mr. Watkin held service in one of the
Government buildings, Government officials and those of the
whites who were favourable to the Free Church attended ; and
when Mr. Moulton was the preacher in Tubou College most of
the white residents attended, but no Government officials. The
British Consul was obliged to have two separate days for tennis,
as the Bakerites would have no dealings with the other party.
As a protest against these practices 1 regularly attended with
my family both services, and tried to induce Mr. Watkin to
have a united service only, and offered to consent to it being

TONGAN AFFAIRS 435

hdd in the Parliament Hoose if he would be willing to dk> so.
I also attended the tennis party at the Consulate on the Free
Church days. It must be remembered that party spirit was
very high indeed in Tonga, and that the very fact of my having
any intercourse with the Free Church people was likely to
create an uneasy impression in the minds of many, both
Europeans and natives, that I was more inclined to side with
that party than with our own people. It was not at all pleasant
for me even to appear to be on friendly terms with those who,
in the opinion of our own people, had done them such cruel
wrong. I felt, however, that it was necessary to show that
I was prepared to meet with both parties, and that I did not
intend to countenance, much less to help on, a state of dissen-
sion and ill-will. I prepared a carefully worded letter to our
people. This I had printed and ready for distribution, but
first showed a. copy privately to the Premier, and on his
Ofunion, given privately and unofficially, I did not then
issue it

I found that the wildest rumours had been circulated with
regard to the object of my mission. The Wesleyans had been
taunted by members of the Free Church with the assertion that
I was going down to sell some of the churches to the Free
Church, to burn the remainder, and to pass over all lands, etc,
to the Free Church Conference. But I also found that our
people had been prepared by Mr. Moulton to give us a hearty
and kind reception, and that he had evidently done all that he
could to remove any such impressions from their minds. He
had spoken in the kindest manner about me, and had assured
them that they would be quite safe under my care. In this
respect, therefore, my work began under very favourable
circumstances, and I had the full confidence of our people from
the first week of my arrival in Tonga. No active persecution
was at this time carried on s^ainst them, but they were still
subject to many disabilities, and to treatment which amounted
in many cases to very decided persecution, and it was soon
evident to me that any attempt to force on any plans of reunion

436

GEORGE BROWN

at that time would have been ill-advised and premature, and
probably have defeated the object. Though complaints vert
frequently made to me, I thought it well not to press for any
investigation at that time, but urged our people to wait patiently
for a while until I was in a position to decide upon the best
plan of action. In a short time the people began to get a
little more confidence, and several joined tis in the different
villages, as they heard no more stories of any outbreak of active
persecution such as had been common previous to my arrival ia
the group. We soon found, however, that other and well-tried
means were still being used to keep up the old fear, and to
assure the people that to be a member of our Church in\'oIved»
at all events, the displeasure of those in power. f

I have given in my reports the account of these persecutions,
which were carried on under the name of law, w^hen the most
outrageous decisions of a Tongan judge were given on tiK
principle that nothing could be too severe, and nothing ill^al.
where a Wesleyan was concerned. I have no wish to reproduce
them now, when a better state of affairs exists, but at the time
they certainly served the purpose for which they were intended,
of inspiring fear in the hearts of our people, and showing them
the disabilities which they incurred by their attachment to our
Church.

Before leaving Tonga at the end of my first term there as
Special Commissioner I spoke repeatedly to Mr. Baker about
the men and women who were still in exile in Tofua and in Fiji,
and repeatedly urged him to attend to those cases, as an
absolute preliminary to any attempt at union. I said : " Mr.
Baker, how can I talk about union or recognition of you as a
Church under existing circumstances? There are many whafl
know the facts of these cases, and they will naturally ask whjr"
we should unite with a Church which has banished our people
to Tofua and to Fiji for no crime whatever, but simply because
they are Wesleyans, and which still keeps those men and women
there, though you profess now that the Church to which they
belong has full right to exist in Tonga, and you seek to unite

with it There are men there in exile for no crime, unless itlMt
a crime to go to family prayer at Mr. Moulton's house; and
there are others who were sent for an alleged refusal to take
the coilitary oath whose sentences have long since expired, but
mrc still kept, in defiance of all law and justice. Why," I asked
* should men like David Tonga and others be exiled from their ,
own land ? For there are many in Fiji against whom no charge of
oime has ever been made. Surely," I said, " your own sense of
^tice will compel you to set these matters right" His reply
was that the men at Tofua would have been attended to long

before had it not been for the interference of Mr. C and

tlie British Consul.

Another matter to which I referred was the injustice of
imposing upon us restrictions Mrith regard to our worship
^friikh were not imposed upon Roman Catholics or Free Church
|ieople. But with regard to all these, and many other acts of
injustice which I brought under his notice, I got only vague
jfKomiaes that they would be attended to, which were never
carried into effect

^ The conclusions which I arrived at during this first stay tn
Tonga were, that the action taken by the General Conference
was decidedly right, and that we were in a better position in
a>nsequence thereof than we had been for a long time previous ;
tiiat in view of the fact that there was no real desire for union
on the part of Mr. Baker or Mr. Watkin, it was not, in my
opinion, desirable to press that matter upon our people, but to
wut patiently until the disabilities under which they were placed
were removed, and until the persecutions which were inflicted
on them had ceased ; and my recommendations to the Tongan
Committee were that we should still stand by our people and
wait as patiently as we could for brighter days ; that the Rev.
J. E. Moulton should be appointed to a circuit in the colonies ;
tiiat Mr. Crosby should remain for the present, and that another
minister should be appointed in Mr. Moulton's place.

I sailed from Toi^ in the S.S. Lubtck on December 7,
[Mrs. Brown remaining in Tonga. We calkci at Samoa, and

arrived in Sydney on December 19. I raet tbe Toogan
Committees in Sydney and Melbourne, and submitted Ibe first
report and left for Adelaide on January 2, to meet the Sooth
Australia section of that comnuttcc.

On reading the accounts in the newspapers of these visits I
find a paragraph in The Spettator of January 4 which I think
might well be inserted here. One of the greatest difficulties I
have in writing this memoir is to avoid inserting the many kind
remarks made about myself, and I feel the same difficult)' with
regard to those made about one who has been a willing helper
in all my work, and who has shared my sorrows and triab
at all times without repining ; but I insert the following because
the words spoken of one of their sisters may comfort some other
faithful workers in the mission field by the assurance that their
work and sufferings are known and appreciated ; and also
because I wish to say that I fully concur in the statement made
in the concluding lines : " Mr. Brown went on to Adelaide 00
Wednesday last, to confer with the members of the Tongao
Committee there, and he will meet our own Committee once more
when he comes back to Melbourne on his way to Sydney. In
the meanwhile Mrs. Brown is remaining in Tonga, awaiting his
return. Our readers will remember — no Methodist is likely to d
forget — the message which that noble woman sent along the
telegraph wires to her husband when the General Conference
asked him if he could go to Tonga: * If you think it is 3rour
duty to go, I am willing.' We must not forget what this
willingness involved, and what it still involves. It meant leaving
her children behind her, and it means that still. While her
husband, in the execution of his duty, has the joy of greeting ■
the loved ones again, the wife and mother still remains patient
and steadfast at her post, as she did before in New Britain
under circumstances such as would have tried the faith of the
boldest martyr who ever faced the stake for the sake of the
Lord Jesus ; and she docs this sort of thing after a quiet,
matter-of-course fashion, as if it involved no more self-sacrifice
than ao interview with the butcher and the selection of the daily

TONGAN AFFAIRS 439

joint And when she comes home again she will just step into
her vacant place as quietly as if she had only been visiting a
neighbour round the corner of the street, instead of making a
sacrifice which brings the tears into strong men's eyes whenever
they think of it. We talk about what our missionaries have
done, but some of our best missionaries tell us that they feel
very small when they compare their doings with what their
wives have done and suffered in the mission field."

■ After meeting the Tongan Committees I visited New South
Wales, Victoria, Tasmania, South Australia, and Queensland, in
company with Rev. David and Mrs. Tonga, to raise funds for
clearing ofT the debt which pressed heavily on the Tonga
District. This debt was the result of the disruption. The
liabilities of 18,000 people had fallen upon 3,000, and they were
unable to discharge them. At these meetings I simply told the
story of what I had to do as Special Commissioner, and of the
way in which my efforts for peace with honour to both parties
had been met. Mr, and Mrs. Tonga were very effective speakers,
and the simple, unaffected manner in which they narrated some
of the incidents of the persecutions which they and others had
suffered, produced a great effect.

Immediately after our return from Adelaide I left for Tonga,
on my second visit as Special Commissioner. Leaving Sydney
on April 26, 1889, for Fiji, I reached Suva on May 6, and had
an interview with Sir J. B. Thurston on the same day. His
Excellency received me very courteously, gave me full informa-
tion about the exiles, and assured me that the Government were
ready to do everything which it was possible to do for them
during their residence in the group. On my arrival in Levuka,
I chartered a small vessel, and visited the exiles at Koro, They
were of course delighted to see me, and to receive the presents
of clothing, kerosene, soap, boat-sails, paint, medicines, etc, with
which I was able to supply them, and of which they were in
great need. I had long conversations with the native ministers,
and with all the people. The king's daughter, Princess Charlotte ;
Vaea, one of the principal chiefs in Tonga, who had just been

440

GEORGE BROWN

refused permission to land in Tonga ; William Maealiuaki,
and other chiefs, were all present 1 called over the names of
all, and asked each one as to his or her wish with regard to
their return to Tonga. Without one single exception, they all
stated that they were anxious to return to their own land as
soon as possible. There were about a hundred of them,
including several ordained ministers, who were members of
the New South Wales and Queensland Conference.

On this visit I remained in Tonga until October 1$, and
during the five months of my stay I was constantly travelling
about the group, visiting also the outlying islands of Niua Foou,
and Niua Tobutabu, and was also engaged in a very voluminous
correspondence with the King, the Premier (Mr. Baker), Rev.
J. B. Watkin, and Tongan officials. This correspondence is
very interesting as a matter of history as sho\v^■ng the injustice
with which our people were treated, and also the great difficulties
which I had to contend against in my endeavours to carry out
the wishes and instructions of the General Conference, and to
protect the Wesleyans of Tonga, as far as possible, from the
underhand persecutions which were inflicted upon them ; but it
is not necessary or advisable to reproduce it here. I was never
able in any of my reports, for obvious reasons, to give any in-
formation of what was being done quietly to prepare the way for
the action \vhich was subsequently taken by the then Governor
of Fiji in practically deporting Mr. Baker from Tonga. It was
my great privilege to enjoy the friendship of the late Sir J. B.
Thurston for many years prior to my appointment as Special
Commissioner, and I may say now that which I could not say at
the time, that in the whole of my actions I was guided very
much by the counsel and advice given me in the course of a
constant friendly private correspondence with him, and that I
was able from time to time to give His Excellency official
information, either through the British Consul, or direct to
himself, which enabled him to compel Mr. Baker publicly to
withdraw many of his unfounded statements and insinuations,
and to make public apologies for the same. I knew well what

ill

HI- 1 s

lit

TONGAN AFFAIRS 441

His Excellency's opinions were about Mr. Bakeri and I well
understood, also, the difficult position in which he was (daoed.
I knew something, too, of his character, and was fully assured
that he would not move until the way was perfectly clear, but
that when he did move he would act in a way that would
astonish Mr. Baker, and those who tried to defend or extenuate
his actions ; and I was well content to wait for this. When I
read now the correspondence, and remember how keenly I felt
the great injustice with which so many of our people were
treated, I often wonder at the patience which, by God's help,
I was able to manifest The editor of The Spectator^ my old
friend, the late Dr. Fison, knew me well, and knew at the time
all that I was doing. When I read in a leading article of his,
referring to my work, the words, " He has held himself completely
in check, and has developed a fund of patience which nobody
supposed to be latent in his constitution, and the exbtence
of which was unsuspected even by himself," I fully endorsed his
opinion.

The beginning of the end, so far as Mr. Baker's power
in Tonga was concerned, may be dated from May 30, on
which day I received a letter, which Mr. Baker had him-
self posted at Nukualofa. He had evidently written in great
anger on hearing of the deep impression which had been
made on the people in Australia by the story of the perse-
cutions, as told by Rev. David and Mrs. Rachel Tonga
during the meetings which we held on behalf of the fund
for the relief of our Tongan Church. In this letter he
made some statements concerning me which were afterwards
described by a distinguished official as "mendacious and
slanderous in the highest degree." I confess to having felt great
satisfaction when I read the letter, for I knew well that he had
given me abundant evidence in support of an action at law,
either for criminal libel or for civil action for damagea This
opinion was afterwards confirmed by some very eminent l^;al
authorities. It was a great temptatk>n, and i<x scMne time I
delenniiied to enter an action for libel, and took i^elinlMuy

442

GEORGE BROWN

steps in the Consular Court for the issue of a writ. I have
often, however, felt very thankful since those days that I finally
decided not to seek for any vindication of my character in this
way. In the letter Mr. Baker had, however, in his anger against
me, made a serious charge against the British officials, and
I deemed it right to acquaint the High Commissioner with the
fact, and to obtain his official reply, as this would be necessary
in the event of any legal proceedings being taken by me. I
therefore submitted the original letter to the British Consul, and
obtained from him a stamped certificate that he had compared
the extracts presented to him with the original letter, and that
they were correct. These 1 forwarded to His Excellency, the
Governor of Fiji, and High Commissioner, tc^ether with copies
of correspondence thereon. I also asked His Excellency to
inform me whether he was aware of any such agreement having
been made, between the officials of the British Government and
the late Revs. Chapman and Hurst, as Mr. Baker declared and
affirmed. I also gave a short rhumi oi the facts connected with
certain actions of mine in New Britain, and the subsequent
inquiries thereon, and asked His Excellency whether he
considered such r/jww/ to be a correct statement of the
facts. fl

On September 20 I received from the private secretary of
the Governor a letter, dated Suva, September 9, informing me,
by direction of His Excellency, that the allegations made by
Mr. Baker respecting an alleged agreement between the ofHcials
of the British Government and Messrs. Chapman and Hurst
were without foundation in fact. A reply in the affirmative
was also given to my categorical inquiries whether the brief
statements contained in paragraph 10 of my letter, and marked
(a) to (g) inclusive, could be taken as a correct risume of the
history of the case in question. A copy of the officially
recorded address or communication made to me by His ■
Excellency Sir Arthur Gordon, on November 12, 1889, and an
extract from Tfu Fiji Tinus^ of November 15, 1889, were also
enclosed. The letter concluded as follows : " From the fore-

TGNGAN AFFAIRS 443

going and the enclosure it will be seen that the affirmation of
Mr. Baker, that there was collusion between the officials of the
British Government and Messrs. Chapman and Hurst for the
purpose or object declared by Mr. Baker, or otherwise, is
mendacious and slanderous in the highest degree, whether as
regards yourself or such officers."

By the same mail Mr. Baker received a letter from the
Secretary to the High Commissioner, in which he was informed
of the contents of my letter, and was told that unless within the
course of six weeks from the date of the arrival of the despatch
in Tonga the High Commissioner should have received a full
apology for, and a complete retractation of the libel against the
Court of the High Commissioner, and •' the officers of the British
Government," contained in his letter to the Rev. George Brown
and the Rev. J. C. Symons, dated on or about May 1 1 last, and
of which an extract was enclosed, legal proceedings would
be instituted. Mr. Baker had tried several times to withdraw
his letter, but as I had sent it to the High Commissioner I
was not able to accede to his request He was ultimately
compelled to write a letter to that gentleman, from which the
following extract is given :

"Will you please inform His Excellency that before I
received your letter I had already apologised to the Rev.
Geoi^e Brown and withdrawn the letter, and now, as desired by
His Excellency, I would fully apologise for and completely
retract the statement made in my letter to the Rev. Geoi^e
Brown, a copy of which was forwarded to the Rev. J. C. Symons,
and of which an extract was enclosed in your despatch to me of
September 9,"

With regard to this part of his letter, Mr. Baker received
from the Secretary a reply in which he was informed as follows :
" As regards the libel contained in your letter to the Rev. Mr.
Brown, as you have made a full apolc^^y and retractation, the
High Commissioner will institute no prosecution in respect of it
Of course, it is out of His Excellency's power to debar the Rev.
Mr. Brown from pursuing his civil remedy if he still wishes to

444

GEORGE BROWN

do so. Should that gentleman see fit to take this action, the
High Commissioner does not doubt that the Court would mark
its sense of a very gross slander circulated under the cloak
of private and confidential correspondence."

This ended the matter of the libel case, so far as I was
personally concerned ; but, as subsequent events proved, the
fact of the charge having been made against British officials was
not forgotten when the time came for decisive action. But a
still more serious blunder was made at this time by the Premier
(Mr. Baker). He published a Tongan Blue Book, which was
circulated amongst the members of the General Conference held
in Melbourne. This contained, amongst other papers, a report
on the attempted assassination of Mr. Baker, purporting to be
written by the Tongan Chief of Police, in which it was distinctly
implied '*that Mr. Vice-Consul Symonds supplied an escaped
prisoner with ammunition for the rifles he and his fellows had
stolen from the Tongan Government, and that one of those
stolen rifles was subsequently found in the British Consulate,
with the name of the bushranger cut upon it."

This gave great offence to the High Commissioner, and
Mr. Baker was informed that His Excellency, while requiring
redress for these insults on the part of the Government of
Tonga, held Mr. Baker individually responsible for the offensive
and unfounded charges against British officials, and against the
administration of justice in the High Commissioner's Court,
which he had printed and published in the Australasian
colonies. Mr. Baker naturally did all that was possible to
excuse the blunders, and to assure His Excellency that he did
not mean to make any charges against British officials. But
he evidently felt again that he was placed in a very perilous
position, and so on January 8, 1890, he wrote a full apology
on behalf of the Tongan Government, and also on his own
behalf, at the close of which he " respectfully requested permission
unreservedly to withdraw all the charges against the late
Mr. Symonds, either of complicity in the attempted murder, or
of supplying the outlaws or other Tongans with firearms, and

TONGAN AFFAIRS 445

alao all otfier JiwrfnpatkMM that an Impartial trial was not accorded
by the Chief Judldal Commissioner in the trial of Hanslip.**
He also offered a free and full apology for having circulated such
chaises in the Australasian colonies. These two matters had,
in my opinion, a very important influence when the question
had to be considered, at a subsequent period, as to whether
it was expedient or not that Mr. Baker should continue to reside
in Tonga.

During my second term of residence I conducted a veiy
voluminous correspondence with the Premier on the many acts
of injustice from which our people suffered, more especially by
police court proceedings. I pleaded also for the release of
the Military Oath prisoners, who had more than completed
their sentences ; for the return of the exiles from Fiji and
Tofua; and for the abolition of ordinances with regard to
public worship, which were evidently only intended to insult
and humiliate our people.

I also wrote a letter to the King. This was couched in most
respectful terms, and some of the highest chiefs in Tonga said
that it was ** exceedingly good and very respectful." It was
well known at the time that the King was displeased with
Mr. Baker on several matters, and after consultation and
csuvful consideration I decided to write direct to His Majesty,
and in such a manner as would ensure its being received by
him. We all felt that we had now absolutely nothing to
expect from Mr. Baker but the most determined opposition,
while there was certainly a possibility, and apparently a great
probability, of our being able to weaken his very undesirable
influence over the King. In this letter I expressed the great
love of the Conference to His Majesty ; repudiated the assertion
that the Conference wished in any way whatever to make
money out of Tonga ; said that I was of opinion that when the
proper time came the Conference would not object to create
Tonga an Annual Conference ; stating, however, that the
Conference had no faith in Mr. Baker, and believed that he
was the origin of the unbecoming actions which were being

GEORGE BROWN

446

done in Tonga. 1 then formally and respectfully stated to
His Majesty what I thought should be done to restore peace
and union between the two Churches, viz., that he should
grant freedom of worship to all parties ; that he should
graciously consider my respectful petition on behalf of the
Military Oath prisoners, and also on behalf of the exiles in
Fiji and Tofua. If these things were done 1 was of opinion
that it would be possible to unite the two Churches, to obtain
for Tonga a Conference the same as Sydney and Melbourne,
and that all the land, leases, and buildings of the two Churches
would be given to that Conference to be governed in accordance
with the laws of the General Conference of Australasia.

Some doubted at the time whether it was wise for us to
write that letter, but I myself had no doubt, and though I
received an abusive letter written over the signature of the
King, it was English and not Tongan composition, and the
English was Mr. Baker's English. The letter contained only
Mr, Baker's thoughts, arguments, and grievances, though these
were written above the signature of King George. No harm
whatever was done, and, as I shall relate further on, this was
made very clear by the words and actions of the King when I
met him in Haapai, after the dismissal of Mr. Baker.

During my stay at this time I felt that it was very desirable
that I should visit the outlying groups of Niua Foou and Niua
Tobutabu. We left Tonga in the schooner Otive^ Captain Ross,
on August 12, reached Vavau on the 14th, and landed at Niua
Foou on August 17. The island seemed to be the summit of a
large volcano. There was a terrible eruption in 18S3, to which
the people often refer. The quantity of lava disgorged in that
eruption covered at least ten miles of country with solid rock,
averaging from eight to fiftccen feet in thickness. One village
was entirety destroyed, having been swallowed up in an immense
fissure from which a large stream of lava was expelled. The
natives told us many wonderful stories of narrow escapes from
death during that and some of the subsequent eruptions. There
is a large lake in the crater on the top of the mountain, in

TONGAN AFFAIRS 447

whkh there have been several eruptions of late yeaia, and new
land has been formed.

After doing what we could to cheer and encourage our
people there, we left on the 24th for Niua Tobutabu, and
reached Tonga again on September 6, after a period of almost
incessant travelling. I left on September 10, and arrived in
Auckland on the 14th, and during my stay there visited several
places in New Zealand in the interest of the Mission. On
November 10 I left for Fiji, and reached Suva on the 16th.
During my short stay there I had several interviews with
His Excellency Sir J. B. Thurston. I found him, as usual, well
posted in all the affairs of Tonga, but I was able to give him
definite information upon some matters which was afterwards
of some use to him in connection with the affairs in that group.
His Excellency very kindly placed the Government steamer
Cfyde at my disposal, to enable me to visit the exiles in Kora
I left Fiji on November 21, arrived in Auckland on the 26th,
and Sydney on December 16. During my stay in Sydney
I prepared a long report for the ensuing Conference, at the
close of which I expressed my thanks for the very valuable
help given to me by the Rev. £. E. Crosby, B.A., during each
of my visits, and also the willing assistance which I had received
from the Rev. C. E. James, and also from all our native
ministers and office-bearers in the Church. Mr. Crosby's
position in Tonga was indeed a most painful one, but no man
was more loyal to our Church.

My report was adopted by the Conference, to be forwarded
to the General Conference. The two recommendations which I
made, to the effect that we should earnestly solicit the good
offices of Her Majesty's Government to secure the fulfilment of
the promises made by His Majesty King George to the late
High Commissioner, and also that steps should be taken to bring
the persecution of our people prominently under the notice
of the Churches in England and America, were made by me
after considerable consideration and with certain defined objects.
I knew that Sir J. B. Thurston would give careful consideration

448

GEORGE BROWN

to the first recommendation, as he had so recently had a similar
experience with Mr. Baker in connection with breaches of
promises. I was also of opinion that the request of the respec-
tive Conferences would very much strengthen His Excellency's
hands in the demands which he was quite ready to make for
the fulfilment of the promises which had been given ; and
subsequent events showed that my judgment in this matter was
correct. I also knew that the expressed opinion of the
representatives in England and America would have great
weight in Fiji and in Tonga,

Immediately after the Conference closed I visited Melbourne,
and met the Tongan Committee there. It was deemed
desirable that I should return as soon as possible to Tonga,
so 1 left on March 20, arrived in Nukualofa on the 27th, and
remained there until April 26. I left again in order to attend
the General Conference in Sydney. Rev. C. E. and Mrs. James
returned also at this time. We arrived in Sydney on
May 8.

At the General Conference held in Sydney in May of that
year, 1890, the' consideration of Tongan affairs in connection
with the report which I submitted occupied a considerable time, M
and excited much interest. The discussion was principally
with regard to the recommendation that we should solicit,
through the High Commissioner, the good offices of Her
Majesty's Government to secure the fulfilment of the promises
made by His Majesty (King of Tonga) to the late High
Commissioner, more especially as regards the proclamation
of freedom of worship, the removal of existing disabilities, and
the return of the exiles in Fiji and Tofua. My position at the
General Conference was a difficult one. I knew something, and
strongly suspected more, of what the action of the High
Commissioner was likely to be, but I was not in a position
to state what I knew, much less to give utterance to mere
suppositions of my own. It was, however, very apparent to me
that the High Commissioner had lost all hope of effecting
necessary reforms in Tonga through the Premier. 1 think that

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TONGAN AFFAIRS

449

for many years Sir John Thurston entertained very kindly
feelings towards Mr. Baker, and thought that he had been
unwisely treated by the Conference ; but as time passed on this
opinion was changed, and he quite despaired of being able
to remedy the evils which were so very apparent in Tongan
administration through Mr, Baker's help. It is very easy to
see now — and I think Mr. Baker himself must often have seen
it in late years — that he might, by the exercise of a little kindly
forbearance and consideration for the welfare of others, have
been a great power for good in Tonga, He had a grand
opportunity but failed to use it aright. The Conference passed
the resolution by a very large majority, I think by 99 votes to
5 ; and this, in my opinion, did much to strengthen the hands
of the High Commissioner when he subsequently visited
Tonga.

During this Conference, also, the New Guinea Mission was
proposed, and I was requested to visit that country to make
preliminary inquiries and arrangements. 1 found it necessary
to leave at once, in order that I might reach Cooktown before
the Government schooner Hygtia left that port, as I might thus
be able to meet Sir William MacGregor at Port Moresby, and
accompany him on a projected trip round the Islands. This
appeared so important that I asked permission from the Confer-
ence to start immediately. On this being granted I left on
Sunday night by the express train to Brisbane, and so caught
the steamer from that port to Cooktown. The account of that
voyage I must give further on, as 1 think it best to finish
the story of my connection with Tonga before doing so.

On my return to Cooktown in August, I received a telegram
conveying the startling intelligence that the High Commissioner
had prohibited Mr. Baker from residing in Tonga for a period
of two years, that the King had granted full civil and religious
rights to our people, and that the exiles were returning from
Tofua and Fiji. On my arrival in Sydney, on August 29.
it was considered very desirable by our missionaries and people
\x\ Tonga, and also by the High Commissioner, that I should

450

GEORGE BROWN

leave as soon as possible for that District, so that I had only
four or five days in Sydney, and left by the S.S. Luhttk on
September 4.

My readers must now remember that in the time which
had elapsed since my previous visit some important events
had taken place in Tonga. I had prepared for this work
an account of the visit of His Excellency the High Com-
missioner to Tonga, the proceedings which ended in his
prohibiting Mr, Baker to remain within the Tonga Islands
after July 17, and the effect of that action upon the Tonga
people ; but want of space again compels me to omit this
most interesting narration. No account, however, could convey
any adequate idea of the great joy which was felt by all
the people of Tonga, quite irrespective of creed or position,
when the decision of the High Commissioner was made known.
There were many proofs of this, and some most significant
facts which showed most conclusively that King and people
alike were deeply grateful to Sir J. B. Thurston for the action
which he had taken. No one who has any knowledge of
Polynesian customs can dispute the significance of King
George's action in his interview with the Governor the day
after Mr. Baker's dismissal, when " he thanked him as he
had never thanked man before," by bowing his head before
him and placing his own hand upon the back of it. No greater
proof of hfs sincerity could have been given by any Polynesian
chief, for it was practically presenting his life in token of
his gratitude ; but that it should be done by such a grand
old warrior as George Tubou, who had reigned as King of
Tonga for so many years, who was beloved and revered
by all as no one else had ever been, and who had never before
bowed his head to any one but to the God in heaven whom
he loved and served, was to all who knew him the most
convincing proof of the sincerity of his gratitude. It was
indeed the supreme act ; there was nothing more that he
could do ; and I can readily ims^ine how deeply the chiefs
and people of Tonga were impressed when it was made known

TONGAN AFFAIRS 451

to them, and how profoundly moved the old warrior King
was when he tendered that proof of the sincerity of his thanks.

The other incident was on July 17, when a ceremonial
presentation was made by the Tongan nation to His Excellency
the High Commissioner. I quote the following description
of this unique ceremony, written by my friend, the late
Dr. Fison, and published in Tfu Spectator (Melbourne) of
August 29, 1890, not merely for the information which it
gives of the event, but also for its scientific value. The article,
which is illustrated by an engraving from a photograph, taken
on the spot, of King George's spokesman addressing the
High Commissioner, is as follows :

"The foregoing engraving, which is from a photograph
taken on the spot, represents the ceremonial presentation
made by the Tongan nation to Sir John Thurston, K.C.M.G.,
Governor of Fiji, and High Commissioner of the Western
Pacific. The phrase, ' By the Tongan nation,' is used designedly,
for the presentation was most certainly a national offering,
and the manner of it was full of the deepest significance.
In order that this may be understood by our readers, a few
words of preliminary explanation are necessary.

" In many of the Polynesian tribes, as in similar tribes
elsewhere, there are two kings, one of whom may be called
the War-king, and the other the Sacred King. The latter
has been called the Priest-king, a convenient term, though
scarcely accurate, for this chief does not necessarily hold
priestly office. His special attribute is not power, but sanctity ;
his person is more than sacred ; it is saturated with utana, or
divine influence, impious contact with which is fatal to the
inferior commoners. Not always, but in most cases, as in
Tonga, the War-king has the real power and authority in his
hands, while the Priest-king has to be satisfied with the
unbounded reverence of his people, which takes substantial
form in the offerings of food and property.

"The War-king in Tongatabu is the head chief of the
elder branch of a clan called Ngata (snakes). His title

452

GEORGE BROWN

is Tul Kanokubolu (King of the Heart of Upola, as rendered
by the Rev. J. E. Moulton), and the present bearer of this
title is King George himself. The Priest-king, or Tui Tonga,
is the head chief of another clan. Hence, it will be seen that,
according to ancient custom, both religion and authority, or.
as we may say, both Church and State, are represented by
these two kings, the Tui Tonga and the Tui Kanokubolu.

" But our preliminary explanation is not yet complete.
When a Tui Tonga marries a daughter of the Tui Kanokubolu,
the daughter of that marriage is a lady of special rank, and
of the very highest sanctity. She is called the Tui Tonga
fefine (female), and children born of her arc almost more than
mortal. They approach the gods. Bearing these things in
mind, we may now be able to appreciate the significance of the
part which the.se personages took in the ceremonial offering to
the High Commissioner.

"On July 17 thousands of people, men, women, and
children — in fact, the whole population of Tongatabu — turned
out to feU His Excellency, by offerings of food, and fruit, and
flowers, after the fashion of the olden times. Everybody gave
something — a yam, kava, a comb, an egg, etc., those who had
nothing else laying down a rose or two. The great multitude
passed before Sir John in single file, each depositing his
offering as he passed, and then taking his place among the
crowd of spectators. We have already told our readers how
King George thanked Sir John personally, ' as he had never
thanked man before,' with the significant gesture of his hand
placed on the back of his bowed head ; and now, when all
the thousands of natives had passed, and had taken their seats
on the grass, the King's spokesman arose, and, standing before
Sir John, thanked him again in the presence of all the people
for ' freeing Tonga,' as he said, ' from tyranny and tine devil ; ■
so that Tonga — oh, happy day ! — is again a free land, and
breathes and lives.' Thus the whole people individually,
and the King's spokesman (Motuabuaka), on behalf of the
King and people, expressed their thankfulness. But the two

TONGAN AFFAIRS

453

incidents which, next to that remarkable gesture of the King,
are the most interesting and significant of all, remain to be
told. We may add here that the King's gesture was accom-
panied by the word * faimalie ' — untranslatable, but expressing
an acknowledgment of the deepest obligation and devoted
thankfulness for a supreme benefit received.

" The first presentation made to Sir John was the grandson
of Tungi, the Head of one of the Royal clans akin to that
of King George. The child was borne in a man's arms,
carrying in his little hand a model of a Tongan war club,
which he gave to the High Commissioner. His Excellency
said, as he received it, that it would be placed with King
Thakombau's battle-axe, and other highly prized memorials
of his life in the Pacific. We are almost afraid to say what
the meaning of this act is. Our readers will note that the child
was presented as well as the club, and the presentation of the
grandchild is of special significance.

'* The second and even more remarkable incident is as
follows: The Tui Tonga fefine, at the head of forty-eight
ladies — who advanced in close order, tliree deep, sixteen in
each line — came forward, and placed round the High Com-
missioner's neck a garland of a certain special kind, which in
the old days could be worn by none other than the Tui Tonga
himself, and not even by him excepting on certain specially
sacred occasions. It is not too much to say that, according
to the old notion, this was actually paying Divine honours to
the High Commissioner, This is by far the most astonishing
of all the remarkable actions that were performed. Power, m
represented by the club and the King's gesture, might be
conferred upon an alien, but the gift of the garland was an
acknowledgment of inherent hereditary sanctity. It was a
distinct act of adoption and investiture. We congratulate His
Excellency on his acquisition of the mana.

" The significance of these three things, from the native
point of view — the King's gesture, the war-club, and the sacred
garland^ — is something astounding. Our acquaintance with

454

GEORGE BROWN

native custom hardly permitted us to believe the evidence of
our own eyes as we read the letter of our correspondent, a
gentleman of long experience in the South Seas, who was an
eye-witness of the whole affair ; but even those who have no
such special knowledge cannot fail to perceive in these incidents
the profound sense of national obligation from which they
sprang. This obligation was increased in no small degree by
the manner in which Sir John Thurston conducted his
negotiations. He came, not as 'the strong man armed,' but
as a friend, and the high consideration which he showed to the
old King from first to last went not a little way in gaining for
him the affection of both chiefs and people. Sir John has
evidently acquired an almost unbounded influence in Tonga,
and we doubt not he will use it to promote the best interests ■

of its people.

Dr. Fison well describes this
no parallel in the South Seas.

as a scene which has had

Another great event which had taken place was the return
of the exiles.

This event, which had been so long hoped for, was at last
accomplished through the good offices of the High Commissioner.
On his return from Tonga His Excellency at once despatched
the Government steamer to Koro, and brought all the refugees
to Suva, and arrangements were made for their leaving by the
S.S. Pukai't on August i6. During the time they were in Suva
the exiles received much consideration and kindness from the
foreign residents and their own friends. A few days before they
left. Lady Thurston, though suffering from serious indisposition,
invited the King's daughter, Princess Charlotte, and all the
Tongan ladies, to afternoon tea. Charlotte, it will be re-
membered, was the King's only surviving daughter, and was
over sixty years of age. She was the mother of Fatafehi, the
Governor of Haabai, who was one of the very highest chiefs in
Tonga, being indeed the representative of the old Tui Tongas
or sacred kings. The next day Princess Charlotte and a number

TONGAN AFFAIRS 455

of her women visited Government House again, and pi-esented
Lady Thurston with a large roll of tapa (native cloth) ; and In
doing this the old lady made a very afTecting speech. She
faiformed Lady Thurston that the tapa had been made by her
niece> and given to her when she was driven from Tonga. Her
niece had told her that she would in all probability die in Fiji
amongst strangers, and she was giving her this lai^e roll of tapa
that she might be wrapped up in it when dead, and be
buried in something from Tonga rolled about her. The
Princess, however, said : " By God's goodness I am not dead,
and I am going back to Tonga through the help of your
husband, the Governor, well and strong. Please accept this
cloth. I know it is perfectly useless to you, but I want you to
accept it, because I have nothing else to offer you." On Friday
the whole of the Tongans, men, women, and children, numbering
about a hundred and twenty, visited Government House to take
a formal farewell of the Governor. His Excellency received
them in the drawing-room attended by his staff ; and Mr. Basil
Thompson, Revs. Lindsay and Worrall, were also present by
invitation. His Excellency gave them a most interesting
address, and concluded by expressing his best wishes for them
and for Tonga, and their safe and happy return home. The
chief Maealiuaki gave a most appropriate reply, concluding with
the words : " You have wiped away the tears from the eyes of
the chiefs and people who sit here to-day, and not only ours, but
those of the whole of Tonga."

On Saturday, August 16, the S.S. Pukaki was dressed with
a gay array of bunting, and his Excellency the Governor,
accompanied by his staff, a number of prominent officials
and high chiefs, went on board to bid the exiles farewell on their
return to their own land again. The wharf was crowded with
Europeans, fellow country people of the returning exiles, and
Fijian chiefs, who had gathered to see the departure. It was
estimated that there were nearly a thousand people on the wharf
at the time. The Pukaki reached Tonga on August 19, and
the exiles had indeed a joyous welcome fix>m their many friends.

456

GEORGE BROWN

It was a day of gladness to all, and I think most of the members
of the Free Church were glad that the exflcs had been brought
back, for they naturally felt the implication on the sincerity of;
their profession, that the people of Tonga were free to worship
God according to the dictates of their conscience, whilst these
people remained in Fiji. The King was delighted, and
pressed his joy many times, and in many ways.

Soon after this I arrived in Sydney from my first visit toj
New Guinea. It was deemed desirable that I should at once
proceed to Tonga, so that as soon as I could get a few slides
made from the negatives which I had taken in New Guinc
left again for that district.

We reached Tonga on September 12, and were kindly rc-^'
ceived by the Rev. J, A. and Mrs. Bowring, who had then been
for some months in Tonga. I visited most of the towns, and
showed the views which I had taken in New Guinea. The
natives were deeply interested, and large numbers, both of our
people and also of the Free Church, attended the meetings. My
object was not only to interest the people, but also to stir up an
interest in our new Mission. We left for Haabai on October 2,
and whilst there I visited all the principal towns and islands.
Whilst I was in Haabai I visited the Kinfj, as I have already
mentioned. He was sitting on the verandah, and as soon as he
saw me enter the grounds he called out my name and asked Mrs. j
Brown and myself to go inside. He handed a chair to my wife,
and then sat down on the ground himself, saying with a smile :
" I will be faka Tonga" (Tonga fashion). I, of course, also sat
" faka Tonga " on the mat, and we had a long talk together.
He was very interested in New Guinea, and asked me many
questions about it and about the prospects of our work there.
Nothing was said about Tongan affairs, but no one could have,
received a more convincing proof of the goodwill of the Kin|
myself personally than I received from him at Haabai.
was confirmed by his many acts of kindly feeling and considera-
tion when we returned to Tonga, as on several occasions when;
presents of fish or food were taken to him he sent a portion of itj

have.

J^&

THB LAST PHOTO OF KING GEORGE OF TONGA.
Age at (be time nlnctjr-two or nincty-thrcc yean.

lN affairs

457

us at the mission house, I always feel very thankful that the
grand old man was delivered from the bondage of false
councillors before he died, and that he felt free to follow the
dictates of his own conscience. Nothing, I think, showed this
deliverance more clearly than a speech which he made about
this time to the bulekolos (town rulers), to the effect that God
had been very good to them : that when they were doing wrong,
sinning against the Bible, against the Constitution, and against
God, He had been patient and loving^ and had not punished
them as they deserved.

We commenced our District Meeting on October 21, at
Nukualofa. I had a lot of volunteers for New Guinea, and
promised that some of them should be sent in the first draft.
I was able to report that our people were behaving splendidly,
that not a word of triumph was ever spoken, nor anything
done that would irritate the members of the Free Church. I
stated that our people evidently felt that the best policy was the
one which I had urged upon them from the very beginning,
that of conciliation, and, as far as possiblCj of forgetfulness and.
forgiveness of past acts of injustice. I saw the King again,
and ventured to speak about the lands which had been taken
away from us. The next morning he went to Tugi, the
Minister for Lands, and told him very definitely to see that we
got them all back again. When I asked him whether the
teachers who had volunteered for New Guinea were free to go,
he got quited excited, and replied : " Of course, they can go.
Who shall hinder them? Let them ple^tse themselves." This
was all very delightful to me and to all of us, and compared
favourably with the painful experiences of former years.
Resolutions were passed at the Synod expressing gratitude to
God for the return of our ministers and people from exile in
Koro and Tofua. Letters of thanks were sent to the President
of the General Conference for the cheering and instructive
letter he sent to the Church in Tonga ; to His Excellency
Sir J. B. Thurston, for his kindness to the exiles while in Fiji,
and for the assistance he had rendered to the cause of religious

458

GEORGE BROWN

freedom in Tonga ; to His Majesty the King of Tonga, 6w
granting freedom of religious worship and for permitting the
return of the exiles ; also to the Rev. J. B. Waterhousc, in
affectionate and grateful recognition of his numerous and self-
denying labours on behalf of our Church in Tonga. A letter
of condolence was sent to the widow of the late Rev. W. G. R.
Stephinson, who laboured for many years in those islands.

The following resolution of thanks was carried unanimously:
" We, the ministers and circuit stewards of this District, wbhtof
thank you for your performance of the work of Special Commis-
sioner allotted to you by the General Conference. It is true that
the first point, the uniting of the two Churches in Tonga, has not
been effected, but the second has been more than fulfilled, and
we are enjoying its fruits to-day. Furthermore, you have
accomplished your important and arduous task in the colonics, ■
the uniting of the Australasian Conferences. For we recognise 1
that that is the source of the good that has befallen us. We do
not know who will be our Chairman next year, but we pray that
prosperity may ever attend on your path and works. And wc
pray for the lasting welfare of yourself and of your beloved
wife and children."

Wc left Tonga on November 12, and reached Samoa o"
the 14th. On December 2 I left Apia by the IVainui for
Fiji, leaving Mrs. Brown in Samoa to go direct to Sydney. Al
Niua Foou we landed the Governor of Haabai, the Premier of
Tonga, and the Minister of Police for a short time, to inquire
into some reported cases of persecution in that island. It is 1
most dangerous landing-place, but we managed to get ashore
and back to the ship without accident. We reached Suva on
December 4. After finishing my business with the brethren
in Fiji, I found there was no passenger-boat leaving for the
colonies at the time 1 wished to leave; so I engaged a passage
in a cargo-steamer leaving for Auckland. Wlicn I went on
board the steward asked me in a most significant manner if '
had a good pair of " sea-boots," for I would surely need them.
1 had no sea-boots, but I had very good sea-legs and a fair

TONGAN AFFAIRS 459

appetite when on salt water ; and though the OkaUt deeply
laden with sugar, did certainly keep her decks well washed
all the time, jret Captain Brewer and a genial lot of officers
made my vo3^e to Auckland a very pleasant one. Some time
afterwards I was sorry to hear that the Okau, under the same
captain and on a similar voyage, was lost with all hands. We
reached Auckland in about five days, and after doing some work
there I left on December 24, and reached home safely on the
30th, after about ten months of travelling, during the whole of
which time I vras only about sixteen days at home.

With this voyage I practically concluded my work as
Special Commissioner, and at the ensuing Conference (1891)
I presented a report, which, as given in the official minutes
of that year, page 126, is as follows: "The President, the
Rev. George Brown, reported that he had visited Tonga
twice since the last Conference in discharge of his duties
as Special Commissioner. He stated that since the departure
of Mr. Baker from that group, in consequence of the Order
which was issued by His Excellency the High Commissioner
for the Western Pacific, prohibiting him from residing in
Tonga for the term of two years, there had been a great
diange in the state of affairs in Tonga. The freedom of
religious worship had been publicly proclaimed, and the
vexatious laws and restrictions which were in force had
either been repealed or were no longer acted upon. The
exiles from Fiji and Tofua had been brought back to their
homes again, and, principally through the kind offices of His
Excellency Sir J. B. Thurston, all the prisoners who were
unjustly confined had been set at liberty. The principal
College Lands which had been forcibly taken from us had
been restored, and His Majesty and the Government were
anxious that perfect freedom should be enjoyed by all the
members of our Church, and that full justice should be
secured to them. The President also stated that he did not
advise any continuation of the attempt to bring about a
ankm of the two Churches, but deemed it most deriraUe

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■^

TONGAN AFFAIRS 461

nothing less than the abandonment of our people, and the
withdrawal of our Church from Tonga, and that for the
accomplishment of these purposes a system of intimidation
and coercion was being carried on by acts which, though
done in the name of the law, were in reality utterly unjust
and which in many instances caused much cruel suffering to
our people, that I determined to resist these acts of oppression
to the best of my ability. That my presence in Tonga was
some check upon the Premier and the Government of Tonga in
their treatment of our people is a simple fact of history ; but
Mr. Baker had been spoilt by the possession for a long time of
almost absolute power in Tonga, and he made the fatal error
of regarding his own position as permanent and unassailable,
and of underestimating the powers of all who might venture
to oppose him. A wiser man would have read the writing
on the wall long before the crash came, and a less pre-
sumptuous man would have given heed to the warning
which he received from Sir Charles Mitchell, and would not
have tried to deceive and trick such an astute and able
politician as the late Sir J. B. Thurston. The later years of
Mr. Baker's rule as Premier were indeed full of blunders.
He might have brought about the reunion of the Tongan
Church, he could have secured for this reunited Church every-
thing for which the Free Church contended, and he could, by
a course of wise and conciliatory action, have rehabilitated
himself to a considerable degree with the Conference of our
Church ; but he preferred to allow the continuance of a
policy of persecution, injustice, and cruelty, which ended with
the order of prohibition, the loss of his property, the obscurity
of a few brief years, and his sad and painful death in
Haabai after his return to Tonga.

466

GEORGE BROWN

Guinea which had been marked out as a suitable field f(

the operations of our Society. These were considered by

Board on December 30, 1889. A letter was read from

Rev. W. G. Lawes, of Port Moresby, expressing pleasure

the probable commencement of our Mission in New Guineaj

and giving important information bearing upon missionar|

operations in that sphere. After discussion, the following

resolution ^vas unanimously adopted : " The information supplied

relative to the commencement of a Mission in the eastern

portion of British New Guinea having been carefully consideredj

and a letter from the Rev. W. G. Lawes, of Port Moresby!

I
expressing gratification at the prospect of our Missionarjl

Society taking up that portion of the territory which the

London Missionary Society is unable to work, having been

read, this Board commends the undertaking to the favoui

consideration of the approaching Annual Conferences."

This resolution was communicated by the Board to a
the Annual Conferences. At the General Conference held
Sydney in May 1890 it was decided to accept the in\'itati<
of His Excellency Sir William MacGregor to enter upon
a new Mission in the eastern end of British New Guinea
and the adjacent groups of islands, believing it to bi
a providential call to our Church. That Conference also inl
structed the General Secretary to visit New Guinea, and t^
report to the Board of Missions on his return ; and authorised
the Board to take action for the establishment of the Missiort
should they consider his report to justify such action. j

On receiving these instructions I found, as I have previou!>l]|
stated, that it was necessary for me to leave at once in ordoi
to catch the Government schooner at Cooktown. I left Sydne|
on May 18, and fortunately reached Cooktown four days before
the arrival of the schooner from New Guinea. I found tha|
Captain Thompson had received definite instructions wi
regard to my passage. We left Cooktown in the Hygeia
June 7, and arrived at Port Moresby on Monday, June 91.
was received with great kindness by the Governor, Sir W^illiai

5!«-r^ tl

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PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 467

MacGr^jOT, who gave me a veiy hearty welcome, and ccrdially
invited me to stay with him at Government House, but at
the same time told me that I was to come and go just as I
pleased. During my sojourn at Port Moresby I stayed with
my old friends, Rev. W. G. and Mrs. Lawes. I knew, of course,
that I should have many opportunities on the voyage of con-
versing with the Governor, and so I wished to learn all that
was possible for me to get from friendly intercourse with the
missionaries.

I soon found that there was some misunderstanding about
the proposed field for our Mission, as the Rev. A. Maclaren
had gone down with the intention of commencing a Mission
in connection with the Church of England. From inquiries
made, it was clear that the Louisiade, with other groups, had
been offered, or rather suggested, to the Anglican Church as
a suitable field, and that they had been for some time preparing
to act upon the suggestion, and to undertake the work;
but it was certain that they had never notified Sir W. Mac-
Gregor of their intention, and that when he offered that field
to us he was not aware that the Anglican Mission were pre-
paring to begin work there. It was also true that the London
Missionary Society had not abandoned their claim to the north-
east coast of the mainland, but that on the contrary they were
preparing to extend their operations to that part of the country ;
and the announcement that it had been offered to and accepted
by us was a great surprise to all, and a great disappointment
to one of the missionaries who was preparing to visit that
particular district. It will thus be seen that there were com-
plications of no little difficulty to be dealt with, but these
were happily overcome by the strong determination of all
concerned, that the respective districts of the societies should
be so arranged that all chances of collision or interference would
be entirely prevented. How this was done will be found in
the following resolutions, which were adopted at a meeting
held at Port Moresby, on June 17, 1890, at which were present
the Kev& W. G. Lawes, F. W. Walker, and H. M. Daunceyr,

468

GEORGE BROWN

of the London Missionary Society, the Rev. G. Brown, Secret
of the Wcsleyan Missionary Society, and the Rev. A.
Maclaren of the Anglo-Australian Board of Missions :

"W'e regret the misunderstanding that has arisen wit
respect to the field of labour to be occupied by the respectii
Societies, owing to the fact that the Louisiades and adjac«
islands were suggested to the Anglo-Australian Board
Missions by the late Protectorate Government as a suitable
field in which to commence mission work, and that they had
been preparing to accept them ; whilst, in ignorance of this,
the same field, together with the north-east coast of Ni
Guinea from Mitre Rock to East Cape, had also been si
gested in a memorandum of the Government Secretary to
VVesleyan Missionary Society of Australasia, and accepted
them as their field of labour, whilst the directors and missic
aries of the London Missionary Society still desired to reta
the north-east coast as part of their existing mission.

"2. That, in consideration of the foregoing facts, so as
use to the best advantage for the native population the for
available for mission purposes, and in order to prevent as
as possible further complications re missionary boundaries,
express the opinion that, as the missionaries of the Londc
Missionary Society have agreed to make the boundary
their Mission at Ducie Cape, on the north-east coast, th
the Anglican Mission should occupy the coast from Cape Due
to Mitre Rock on the north-east coast of New Guinea, afl
that the Wesleyan Missionary Society should occupy the whc
of the outlying islands with the exception of those islands lyin
west of Rocky Pass, on the south-east coast of New Guinea

" 3. That these recommendations be respectfully submitted
to the respective Missionary Boards for their consideration
and approval."

These resolutions were afterwarda adopted by the respective
Societies after a slight alteration in boundaries had been made,
So as to provide that at least one station on the mainii
New Guinea should be allotted to our Society.

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PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 469

I wrote afterwards a long account of this my first journey
to New Guinea, and the very interesting experiences which
I had during the weeks which I passed on board the Merrie
England, and with the missionaries on shore, but I can only
now give a short outline of our travels.

On the Thursday after my arrival, Rev. H. M. Dauncey,
Mr. Lawes' colleague, accompanied me on my journey inland
as far as the Laroki River. When I expressed a wish to see
a little of the country inland during my stay at Port Moresby,
Mr. Lawes and Mr. Dauncey at once made all necessary
arrangements, and we started with a well-equipped party for
a three days' camp-out. I have had a pretty good experience
in these matters, but if ever it should be my lot to go again
on any such expedition, and Mrs. Lawes would again take
the management, as she did on this occasion, I should certainly
not allow any one else to interfere. No one knew better what
was needed than she did, and no one could possibly have
shown greater kindness in providing for all our wants than
the good lady whose name was a household word in New
Guinea, for her unwearying kindness to all sorts and conditions
of men who were brought from time to time to the mission
house at Port Moresby.

We camped on the bank of the Laroki, and kept a sharp
lookout for crocodiles, but did not get a shot, though several
were seen by our natives when we were not at hand. I was
anxious also to get a specimen of the bird of paradise, but,
unfortunately, we were not able to find one, though we were
out each morning and evening looking for them. Birds
were not very plentiful, and we got only a few specimens.
On the day we left, however, one of our boys got a fine
specimen of the large crested Goura pigeon, which I managed
to preserve after we reached the station on Saturday night.

On Sunday I preached in the little English church at
Port Moresby. I also attended the native service, and was
much pleased with what I saw. The people are not so dark
in colour as are New Britain and Solomon Islanders ; in fact,

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on looking at some of the nicely dressed students' wiv
the morning service, it was difficult to believe that they were
not some of the Polynesians amongst whom I had lived for
so many lyears. In the background, however, were numbers
of people who apparently were still under the impression
dress was not an essential either for everyday life or
public worship. The women, however, wore long gras<; girdles,
which placed them, in this respect, a long way in advance of
our New Britain women.

Soon after my arrival the Governor examined the studer?
in Mr. Lawes' Training Institution, and also the school in the
large village. He was well pleased with the results of his
examination, and in a few kindly words did much to encourage
both teachers and students. But the best of all was a gift
which was received from him at the mission house next
This was given to provide a feast for the more deservin
the pupils in all stages of education. Mrs. Lawes, with very
characteristic energy, took this important matter in hand at
once. A picnic was decided upon, and, of course, pigs (w
take the place in New Guinea of tea and cakes) had t
bought. I had never seen a pig about Port Moresby, and
they arc always a scarce article there, but very soon three
of them were brought, carefully inspected, and bargained for;
and so on June 20 we all went with the excited but roerr>'
youngsters to a nice beach some few miles away. It was
little wonder that the outing was a most pleasant one. Given
a beautiful day, a beautiful beach, lots of children, plenty of
games, with Revs. Messrs. Walker, Dauncey, and Maclaren and
Captain Hennessey of the Merrie England, all celibates at
time, and full of fun, to organise them, a good luncheon und
few shady trees for the whites, and three pigs and two cwt.
of rice for the children, and lots of prizes to be competed
for — the picnic was certain to be a success ; and such it
undoubtedly was. The tug-of-war was the most popular, but
foot races and jumping also formed part of the programme.
Then the natives also had one of their own games, which they

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PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 471

enjoyed, but whfeh seemed to us a very rough one, though
very pretty. First a tot of girls formed themselves into a
compact body on the beach. This was supposed to represent
a ship. They commenced singing, while the young men and
boys went and provided themselves with small branches, which
they waved over their heads, making a hissing noise, which
was supposed to represent a gale of wind. Then, advancing
from a distance of two or three hundred yards, they came
on, gradually increasing the pace, until they all rushed at once
upon the interlocked body of girls with the object of breaking
them apart, and so destroying the ship. The game then
resembled a regular hard scrimmage at football. The girls
stood firm for awhile, but gradually the superior weight of
the attacking force prevailed, and the ship was broken up.
One girl hurt her knee, and had to be assisted from the beach.
The boys then formed the ship, and the girls represented the
storm, but failed to break the ship, though for some time the
issue was very doubtful. All the party, young and old, white
and natives, thoroughly enjoyed themselves, and spent a most
pleasant day.

On Monday, June 23, we left Port Moresby for Kerepunu,
where we arrived at 4 p.m., and soon afterwards went on
shore with Mr. Pearce, who came off to the ship and took
us all to the mission house. The natives are of a darkish
brown colour, with frizzy, curly hair. The women are tattooed,
and all dressed in the long grass skirt As soon as we landed
the Governor examined the schools, and I think was much
pleased with the results. Afterwards he addressed some kindly
words to the chiefs and people, earnestly advising them to see
that the children attended school regularly, that all should
observe the Lord's day, and that they must live in peace with
each other and the neighbouring tribes. He strongly impressed
upon them the fact that equal justice would be shown by
the Government to all people in New Guinea, and that there
would be no distinction in the administration of law between
white ^d black, that any injustice committed against them

472

GEORGE BROWN

by a white man would be punished, and that any wrongs
done by them (the natives) against whites would be similarly
dealt with- Altogether it was an address well calculated to
do good, and I give it here as a sample of the addresses given
by His Excellency at all the places we visited.

I was much interested at Kerepunu in seeing the native
carpenters working with stone adzes. Six men were hollow-
ing out a large canoe. They stood two and two, facing
each other, on each side of the large log, and each man struck
an alternate blow to that given by his partner, much like a
blacksmith and the striker at the anvil ; and they certainly
made the chips fly fast We were only a few days' distance
in time from the nineteenth-century civilisation in Queensland,
and yet amongst a people still living in the stone age.

Still proceeding down the south coast, we next called at
Aroma, on June 25. The name of the village where we landed
was Parramatta, which is also the native name of a well-known
town near Sydney. There was a native teacher stationed
there, and evidently a very large population. From Parramatta
we walked for about a mile and three-quarters along the
beach, attended by a great crowd of natives, to Maopa, by far
the largest village we had visited, and got some idea of the
dense population of that district. The town consisted of about
two hundred houses, all built very closely together, and arranged
in very narrow streets. The chiefs name was Koapena, and
for a New Guinean chief he appeared to have considerable
influence. A photo which I took of him gives a fair idea of
his personal appearance, but scales and weights would be
necessary before any proper idea could be suggested of his
capacity for food when a good opportunity occurred, as
the case during our visit

The Dubu, or sacred meeting-place, was adorned, in the
opinion of the natives, by some human skulls, which swayed
about in the wind from the cords by which they were suspended.
The Governor requested that these should be buried, but as
no one seemed willing to do this — for fear, I suppose, of

111

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 473

some misfortune afterwards — a party of the men, with Mr.
English, the magistrate who accompanied us, took them down
and buried them, the natives offering no opposition. I noticed
here that a great many of the people had their faces and bodies
blackened, the universal sign of mourning in all the islands.
The women were heavily tattooed over face and body.

On Friday, June 27, we reached the small island of Toulon,
the native name of which is Mairu. The village consisted of
some eighty-three houses, built on both sides of the one street.
They were of the shape usual in this part of New Guinea,
built on high posts, with a platform in front, and an upper
storey, reached through a trap door from the main room.
They were about thirty feet long, and twenty-seven feet high
to the top of the steep roof.

On the following day, June 28, we anchored at Suau (Stacey
Island). The dress of the men at this place varied somewhat
from the small string or bandage worn farther west, which
is here changed to the pandanus leaf. Suau is the station once
occupied by the late Rev. James Chalmers, and is associated
with some of the stirring events of his early pioneer experiences
in New Guinea.

On Sunday, June 29, we anchored at Samarai (Dinner
Island). As we neared the island I got the first sight of the
islands which it was proposed should form part of our District,
and was much pleased with all I saw. The islands at the
east end are much more green and bright than those in
the west and the mainland. We went on shore, and I remained
most of the day at the house of the late Hon. B, A. Hely, who
was then the Government Resident and Magistrate of the Eastern
District. Rev. A. A. Maclaren conducted service and preached
to the ship's company and some visitors from the shore and
the ships in port. Samarai is only a small island, but is of
importance as being the residence of the Government Officer
in charge of the District, and the only port of entry for that
part of the possession.

Monday, June 30, we left Samarai early, and steamed

474

GEORGE BROWN

through the beautiful Mayri Passage. In a short drne we
opened up the splendid bay called Milne Bay. We landed
at Killerton Island, and spent a'short time there, and, as usual,
had a heavy downpour of rain. It is very singular that the
months which arc the dry season everywhere else in the South
Pacific should be the rainy season in that eastern end of New
Guinea. So far as I could learn, the rainy season is from June
to September, and fine weather and calms from October to
January inclusive.

After leaving Killerton we anchored at Mita in Milne
about 2 p.m. Most of the canoes there, I noticed, have no
riggers. The Afem'e England, with the Governor, Mr. Winter,
the chief judicial officer, and Mr. Hely, had to return to
Samarai on official business, and for coal ; but as a party
were to remain 1 elected to remain with them, so as to se^j
as much of the mainland natives as was possible. We m'4^|
given a good native house raised on piles, and were ver>'
comfortable. The house was about thirty feet long by twelve ft
wide. Sir William, amongst many other special qualificati
for his office, was an Indefatigable collector and explorer, and
all who sailed with him were expected to do their best to
pick up something, so that as soon as the vessel left we all
started out ; but I had no success. We could not speak
language ; the natives did not then know what we wanted ;
I got led away amongst swamps and native gardens, where
there was nothing to get in the short time before dark which
was at our disposal. It was some little satisfaction to me
find that none of the others had been any more success
I know this was wrong ; but after tramping through m
swamps and getting one's skin torn with the bush lawy
vines, human frailties are generally strongly developed I

At night I was much pleased to see the natives gather
together for evening prayer, in a shed just outside the house
which we occupied. There was no teacher there, but lakop^^
the chief, and his brothers, acted as such, and were certain^^
very successful. About seventy people assembled when the

iodl^

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 475

call was made. They sang one or two hymns to some of our
own tunes ; lalcopo gave an address, and then called upon one
of his brothers to pray. It was a most cheering sight to me
to see these poor people so gathered together. It was only
an old shed in which they worshipped ; there was no light
except that of the moon outside and the flickering gleam from
a small fire inside the shed ; the people were but very scantily
dressed ; the language used was an unknown one to us, and
probably the speaker knew only the very rudiments of the
Christian faith; but I felt that God, the Great Father of all,
was there, and the feeble utterances of the old New Guinea
chief brought hope and strength to one who could catch only
a word or two occasionally, not sufficient indeed to indicate
the tenor of the remarks, but quite enough to show that lakopo
in his own way was teaching his people the same great truths
which are preached to all men as the rule of life and character,
for time and for eternity, for the life that now is and for
that which is to come. I was indeed much pleased with all
that I saw and heard, especially as I knew that this was not
done simply because we white men were present, but that the
morning and evening prayers were regularly attended by most
of the people in the village. After our own evening prayer
the natives sang some hymns outside in the moonlight. They
had no books, but the words seemed familiar to them, and
I did not once hear them stop because they "could not re-
member the next verse." One of the most cheering statements
made to me in Port Moresby by Mr. Lawes was that the New
Guinea converts made first-rate teachers amongst their own
people ; and my experience at Mita went far to confirm this.

Next morning we all started early on a shooting expedition
inland. The day was wet and gloomy, so that we were not
very successful in finding birds, but we had a very fair sample
of New Guinea roads and mud. We first traversed the low,
flat lands near the coast, wading through thick mud and water,
crossing some small streams, then across some of the sticky
plantatioos, with occasional patches of very h^ thick grass,

476

GEORGE BROWN

through which we had to force our way, guarding ears and
face with arms and elbows held at right angles to the head.
After this we had a lon^; climb up a slippery track, under
occasional heavy showers of rain, until we reached an altitude of
about twelve hundred feet. It was pretty hard work, especially
we were not favoured with a sight of the birds which we went
to seek. We heard the well-known cry of the bird of paradise
occasionally, but the birds themselves had sense enough to
keep quietly under shelter in such weather. Our boys gotj

great fun out of our naturalist, Mr. H , especially when he]

went into ecstasies at the sight of a tiny land-shell which
was handed to him. I felt certain, from old experiences, that
the remarks made by them about his sanity in coming so
far to seek such objects as he was evidently so deeply interested
in, were neither favourable nor flattering. However, he smiled
very pleasantly at them. None of us knew what they were
saying, and they worked very well for him, so that he alone
of all the party congratulated himself on having made a good
bag. The day which was so unfavourable for us was a grand
hunting day for land-shells and " moUuks " of all kinds, as
they were irreverently called by some of our party.

Just after noon we began to descend, and were soon holding
on by branch and tree as we worked down one of Uie steep
spurs of the range. After this we had to walk for some
distance in the bed of the river, and if any one wishes to know
what difficult walking is, I would advise him to walk down
and across one of those mountain streams in New Guinea
some distance from the coast After a good walk across
slippery stones and large boulders, through a rushing stream
and deepish pools, with an occasional climb up the muddy j
bank, and a short cut across the bends in mud over the ankles,'
and with lots of bush lawyer vines asking him to " wait a bit "
every now and then, or clothes would be torn and skin scratched,
we were glad to get to level ground again and sit down to
rest in a plantation through which wc were passing. One
the boys found an old cocoanut, which he speedily husked i

MAXIKE VltLAGE, TUPUSELEI.

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 477

began to eat, and, with a reckless defiance of the demon of
indigestion, I joined in, for one great compensation for the
discomfort of those bush walks is the good appetite which
is in most cases gained. After we had pretty well finished
the cocoanut, I made a great impression on the natives by
putting a good specimen of my friend Dr. Slate's dentistry
to a use which, I am sure, he never contemplated when he
exercised his skill in its production. I went through the
pretence of twisting and pulling very forcibly the aforesaid
work of art, and then succeeded, after many contortions, in
extracting before their very eyes the whole of the teeth under
which the junk of cocoanut had just disappeared. I then
showed them the empty mouth, and with an apparent great
effort put the teeth back, and proceeded, amid great exclamations
of wonder, to grind up the last remains of the cocoanut. I
very calmly offered to repeat the operation upon any of them,
but both hands were at once firmly placed over the mouth
of the youngsters I proposed to take in hand ; and I am sure
that if I had pressed my offer they would all have bolted, and
left us in the bush. All the evening after our return they
were talking of it, and I saw the lads who were with us pointing
me out to the others, and going through the movements which
I had made. At last I had to repeat the operation before
the whole crowd, and loud were the exclamations of wonder,
not unmixed with fear, which came from all sides. I again
very pleasantly offered to operate on one of the lads, but on
reaching out my hand to lay hold of him he fairly bolted, amid
the laughter of all the crowd.

On Wednesday we were all out early in the morning and
went through the same experience of trudging muddy roads,
wading creeks, climbing the range, and walking in pouring
rain. It is said to rain more in Milne Bay than in any other
part of New Guinea. I thought that my third day out was
going to be as fruitless as the others, but just as we were
about to descend from the range I got my first shot at a
bird of paradise. It was a long shot, but fortunately I secured

478

GEORGE BROWN

it, and had the pleasure of skinning it after we reached Mita
in the evening. The Governor returned from Samarai in the
afternoon in the Merrie En^and \ and next day, as the steamej
had again grounded, the steam launch was got ready, and a party
of us started to visit as many places as we could in Milne Bay,
VVe called first at Ralei, but found most of the people w
absent at the feast at Mita. We then crossed the bay, abo«
six miles in width, to a village which, strange to say, beai
what was to those of us who were from New South VVal
the familiar name of Wagga Wagga. Milne Bay is said
be very unhealthy, but it is certainly very beautiful We g«
back to the ship at 6 p.m., and soon afterwards, much to
delight, the Merrie England floated off into deep water agak
and we were soon speeding merrily along to Samarai, whi
we anchored about half-past nine.

On Friday, July 4, we left Samarai early, and had a
run to Ware (Teste Island), where we landed at ri a.m., ai
there for the first time I was actually on shore in our propose
District. Ware is a small island, with a number of
picturesque islets about it. As we were Hearing the islai
we passed a large canoe under full sail. These people
great traders, and Ware must always be an important stall
as the people are so well known in the other groups, and
course are very useful as interpreters and pilots. I think the
Governor did not intend to visit Ware, but, with his accus
tomed kindness, he went there in order that I might see thj
island.

During the next itvi days we visited the Conflict Groi
passing Basilaki, Sladc, Bentley, and a number of other islan
to St. Aignaud Island (Misima) on July 5. From there wl
passed through the large Calvados chain of islands, afl
anchored at Sudest on July 7. We landed early the following
morning, as the Governor intended to cross the island. The
track inland led over very fine, grassy, undulating counti
with thick bush in the ravines and gullies, forming a
beautiful park-like country, and the walk was very enjoya

,U3-

th^
n(Sr

TWO NEW GUINEA WARRIORS. PORT MORESBY DISTRICT.

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 479

I noticed many fine specimens of the curious pitcher-plants
as we passed along. After crossing the open country we began
to ascend the main range, which is covered with thick bush.
About half way across the island our party divided, the
Governor and a small party going on, whilst the others were
left to collect, and await his return. Mr. Maclaren and I stayed
with the latter party, and found our way to one of the smal!
hamlets, where we were to await the Governor's return. I
bad a curious experience one day when I was out shooting on
this island, I was passing over some open grass country when
I saw some white object in the distance, which I at first took
to be some new kind of pitcher-plant On reaching it, however,
I found it to be a leaflet extolling the virtues of Keating's
cough lozenges. Up to that time I had thought that no white
man had been there before, but some prospector had evidently
been ahead of me. It was quite interesting to pick up that
reminder of civilisation in such an out-of-the-way place.

On Wednesday, July 9, we reached Rossell Island. Rossell
is but little known compared with the other islands of the
Loutsiades. It is, indeed, the outpost of that group, and is
not more than 180 or 200 miles from the Solomons. It has
long borne an evil character, because of the wreck of the
St. Paul there some years ago. A number of the crew of
that vessel, and some three hundred Chinamen, were killed
and eaten by the natives, only two of the survivors being
rescued by the French ship-of-war Styx. It is said that
the Chinese passengers were confined on an island, and killed
at the rate of two or three per day. The natives at first were
very shy. When we landed we found all the houses deserted,
and all our efforts to communicate with them were unavailing.
All we could do was to get our interpreter to sing out as
loudly as he could, and to leave some presents in their deserted
houses. On the following day the Governor, with Mr. Maclaren
and a boat's crew, started for a journey up the north coast The
rest of our party, including Mr. Winter, the chief judicial officer,
Mr. Moreton, and oiysdf^ went in the steam launch, with the

lai ■ •" ~

dinghy in tow. We first visited High Isl
and then steamed round the bay. We c
people on the island, but on the mainland
better ; and once we got near them we
to secure their confidence. We went
inland, and on our way we saw one t
this island, for, instead of the narrow q
found on other islands, the natives on Roj
roads through the bush, and kept them
trees and undergrowth. It was quite
When we reached tlie village we found thi
had all fled, and they did not come
though the men got very friendly wit
have visited Rossell Island it is unneci
rained nearly all day. it is indeed a
dense vegetation affords a fine field for thej

On Friday, July 1 1, wc started early,
to get to the top of the coast range. 11
friendly, and went with us willingly, butj
in such force that we had to halt aboulj
vain hope that wc might yet have a few I
F^or some time we got up some excite^
land-shells and other animals, much tfl
Mr. H., our collector of " moUuks," whfl
weather such as wc then had. But as the'
down this excitement subsided, and evej
new " diplomatina," which sent Mr. H.
delight, failed to arouse us at last, Wc I
a fire, and at last had to retrace our si
the rain. The people were all very quil
no spears were seen by any of us excepll
language is very full of nasal sound.s, and |
from those wc heard in the other groups.)
the island is Rowa.

On leaving Rossell we called at P
Sud Est, and landed our interpreter;

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA '

irge island of Misima (St. Aignaud), and from there to Mum
(Woodlark Island), where we arrived on July 14. We anchored
at Guisopa, a fine, large, safe anchorage. The principal Island
appeared to be T-shaped — a lai^e mountainous range at the
west end, and then a long leg of comparatively low land
running north and south. We saw more of the high, single, out-
standing trees on the ridges here, which are such a marked
feature in the other groups which we had visited. The women
amd children remained in the village when we landed, and
all were very friendly indeed. There was, however, a curious
ceremony performed here. I was standing amongst the crowd
^en one of the principal men came quietly behind me, and
before I knew what he was going to do, he blew a full mouthful
of chewed betel-nut, masooi bark, and spittle over me, which
kH in fine spray on my head, neck, and shoulders. The
Governor and his party, as I found out afterwards, had been
treated in the same manner prior to my arrival. I suspected
the reason for this proceeding, and so did not say anything
to the man. It was done, I think, to guard against any evil
spirits who might be accompanying us, and as a sign of amity^
and that we were now free to remain and trade.

On Tuesday, July 15, the Governor and party landed to
try and secure some men who were accused of the murder of
two white men here some eight months ago. I did not go
on shore, as it was not desirable that I should be mixed up
in any affair which, however right and proper, might affect
prejudicially our subsequent relations with the people. Mr.
Maclaren also remained on board. The expedition on shore
was very successful, as three of the men were secured without
a shot being fired.

On Thursday, July 17, we left Woodlark at 6.30 a.m. and
reached Lachlan Islands at 12.30. This is a most beautiful
group, consisting of seven islands, which form an almost
complete circle. They are all low, sandy islands, full of cocoa-
nuts. At low water it is practicable to walk from one island
fto ail tibe o^usiii witii one or two exceptions. At night we

482

GEORGE BROWN

went ashore, by invitation from Mr. Tetrlaff, to see a native
dance, but it was a very tame affair. We left one of our
interpreters here. We had been teasing him often on board
about his wife, from whom he had been absent for some time ;
and one of our party, who was still fresh to the habits of
South Sea Islanders, was very anxious to witness the meeting
between the long-absent husband and the sharer of his joys
and sorrows. He was, however, very much disgusted when
Jack marched up to his wife and children, and without one
word of recognition or sign of joy from either side, coolly
touched her with his hand and said : " Here she is. This
woman belong me, pickaninny belong mc." The utter absence
of sentiment or gush was very disappointing.

On Friday, July 1 8, we returned to Wood lark Island on
the north coast. After some time spent in examining the
\sland, we left there on July 20, and soon passed close to the
slands of Gawa and Kivoiruata. These two are of the same
shape and formation, though the latter is much smaller than
the former. The Governor was not at all well, and so desired
to land at the next island, Ewe or Journey Island ; but
though we passed close to it we could not get anchorage,
even when quite close to the beach. The high coral cliffs of the
island spring right out of the deep blue water, and are almost
perpendicular. It was a most beautiful sight as we steamed
quite close to those high cliffs on a calm sea and under a
bright, sunny sky. In many places the cliffs have large cracks
and caves in them, and in several places we could see large
stalactites hanging over the sea-face of the cliff. With good
fenders out it seemed to be quite practicable in some places
to take a large ship alongside the island, and moor her. In
many parts we saw long ladders reaching down from the first
terrace of the shore-line, which seemed to be the only means
by which natives could reach the shore or return from it inland.
The natives were running about on a reef, which ran out
from one end of the island, whilst others in canoes joined
with them in urging us to anchor; but with no bottom at

p
o

/ :

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 483

forty-five fathoms, we had to steam away, much to their dis-
appointment, and to ours also.

These islands had evidently been formed during a long
period of subsidence followed by another of upheaval, which is
still, I believe, going on. We reached Kitawa, or Jurien Island,
about 3.30, and after spending some time there steamed
over to the large island of the Trobriand Group, and came
to anchor about noon, at a large village called Kadawaga.
There were about two hundred houses in the village, of which
I took four photographs. We were told that the most populous
village was on the other side of the island, where there is no
anchorage. I fancied that I could detect more similarity
between the New Britain language and that spoken by those
people than in any other dialect which we had heard. Some
of the words indeed were exactly similar.

The following day the Governor called me up on deck
in the early morning to hear the call of the Manucodia. It
was very sweet indeed, and reminded me very much of
the sound made by the bell of a leading mule or pack-horse,
when heard some distance away ; or perhaps a better illustra-
tion would be the tinkling sound of a church bell. But, after
all, no simile can give an adequate idea of the sweet sound.
It is the call of the Manucodia, and nothing else.

After leaving the Trobriands we found the navigation very
difficult, owing to thick weather and many reefs and shallow
patches, and we were all glad to reach Moresby Strait, with
Goodenough Island on the right and Ferguson Island on the
left hand. Goodenough is very steep at this part, two of its
peaks being seven thousand feet high. There are large tracts
of open country covered with bright, coarse grass on the
mountain sides, with lines of forest in the valleys and other
parts of the range. In the early morning this land presented
a most gorgeous combination of colours, large black patches
of burnt grass contrasting with the deep brown of the cultiva-
tions, and with green of every shade on the grassy slopes
and in the dense forests. On the coast the land was low

484

GEORGE BROWN

and densely wooded, forming, as it were, a sombre frame,
which gave additional beauty to the lovely picture abov«
it. The whole scene, indeed, from the deck of the Met
England was extremely beautiful. On our right was th«
picture I have attempted to describe ; in front was the en<
of Goodenough, or rather of Dodogessa Island, rising into
conical mountain, which is e\'idently an old crater at its extreme
end ; whilst behind that, in the far distance, we could s<
the mainland of New Guinea. On the left was Mount MayboU
on Ferguson Island, rising almost from the water's edge, it
steep sides covered with dense forest, whilst in some place
the land seems to have fallen almost perpendicularly from tl
highest peaks for two-thirds of their entire height, thus leavinf
immense precipices on the side of the range. A unique bii
of paradise, which is very valuable, is found on Mount MayboU
As wc passed through the Strait we could see the smoke, an^
certainly could smell the odour, from the sulphur hills
Seymour Bay.

After clearing Moresby Strait we had a quick run over
Chads Bay, on the mainland, reaching our anchorage at 4 p.i
This is the place where two of the natives who murdere
Mr, Ancell were hanged, an event which did more to quict«
this end of New Guinea than any other means. The Governe
landed first in the dinghy, in order that the people might
be alarmed if they saw a large boat's crew going on shor
At this place I had to leave the Merrie England, as l!
Governor found that he could not possibly visit the north-ea
coast of the mainland and the D'Entrecastcaux Group alj
on which latter group I had not been able to land. It
absolutely necessary that he should visit the north-east coa
whilst it was also necessary that I should see the largest ai
most important group in the district allotted to us before
left New Guinea. In order that these objects might
accomplished. Sir William very kindly proposed that 1 shoi
return at once to Samarai in the Merrie England with
Hely, leaving the rest of the party at Chad's Bay ; that he

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PIONEERING

NEW GUINEA

would give instructions to Captain Thompson, who was in
ojinmand of the Hyggia, which was daily expected in Samanu,
to take Mr. Hely and myself round the islands which I wished
to visit ; whilst the steamer, after coaling at Samarai, was to '
return and take the rest of the party with himself up the
coast of the mainland as far as Mitre Rock, which is the
boundary-mark between German and British New Guinea.
I need not say that I very readily accepted this kind pro-
position, and subsequently left Samarai on July 20 in the Hygeia,
This part of the voyage was full of interest, but I can only
.say here that we went again to Teste Island, Pitt Bay (Basilaki
Island), Tubetube (Slade Island), Flynn Bay (Basilaki), Pitt
Island, and Normanby, but I did not see any place which I
could recommend as being in all points a suitable one on
which to commence our Mission.

On Monday, August 4, we were off Goulvain Island (Dobu).
There was no wind, and the day was intensely hot ; but as
time was very precious, I decided to take the boat and pull
to the island. We had heard a great deal about the fierce
dbaracter of the people, and many friendly cautions were given
me to keep a good lookout when we landed. One of the
.last remarks made to me by the Governor before I left him
at Chad's Bay was : " Now, Brown, take care of yourself at
Dobu, or they will knock you on the head. They are about
the worst natives I know in New Guinea." Then there was
Smother reason why we should be very careful, and that was
because it was in Dawson Straits, and \ery near to Dobu, where
some of the horrible atrocities had been committed, for which
the men on board the labour vessel Hopeful were tried and
condemned. We found the distance to be much greater than
we thought, as, owing to the very clear atmosphere, the island
appeared to be much closer to the ship than it really was.
We pulled for two hours under the hot sun, and then landed
at one of the villages. A great crowd came about us, most
of whom were very shy at first, but they soon got confidence.
We went into several villages, and all the people seemed

human skulls over the doorway, on a 1
some notice of them, and on our way b|
natives had taken the skulls down aft
they did this simply because they knc
to see such trophies. I thoroughly enjoj
As soon as we landed I took notice of
a string of beads on the neck of the fi
I saw ; after that I had lots of them bro
In fact I caught one or two women presi
twice over. We passed through village
came to some boiling springs on the hi
curious. The water came out of some
the rocks near the sea — indeed, I thinSi
high water. There was a strong smelj
rocks about were covered with a sul
tried to tell the natives would cure th
which they are subject. I noticed hei
not tattoo as in the other groups,
that Dobu was by far the best place I
form a head station, as it was very
centre of a very dense population on N<
Islands.

Tuesday, August 5. This morning
canoes round the ship, all anxious to tn
with two or three boys, and shot soradj
a bird which I believe belongs to the ai
of paradise. It is black, with brilliant
the whole body. The strange peculil
bird is that the windpipe in the male bii
the lungs direct from the throat, is
between the skin and the body as far]
back again (sometimes making a
the breast, before it enters the lungs,
got this very peculiar development,
to this arrangement that the bird is

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 487

long>sustaiiied tremolo call We left Dobu at 10 a.m^ and
had first calms and l^ht winds, then a good breeze, so that
we reached Seymour Bay on Ferguson Island at sunset, but
too late to go on shore.

On landing the following day we saw one or two natives,
and did everything we could to get them to come near us,
but in vain. We sent a native ahead of us, and they stayed
to talk with him, but as soon as we advanced they started
off. We found the track, and went to the sulphur holes,
which we found at about a mile inland. We passed out of
the forest on to a grass plain, and saw in front of us a bleached-
looking mountain, out of which fumes were coming thick and
fast Turning to the right, we passed lots of fumaroles, eadi
with its cap of sulphur over it. We went close to the mountain,
and then to a great hot spring, which was boiling most
furiously and throwing out great clouds of steam. Then we
came to some springs of boiling mud, which reminded me very
much of Tikitiri in New Zealand, though they were not so
large as the New Zealand springs. We ascended a spur and
had a most lovely view. We were evidently watched by
natives, and at last they mustered courage ^enough to come
to us. We made them happy by some presents of beads,
red cloth, etc Their sign of friendship is to nip the nose,
and then touch the navel. We got on board at 1.30 and found
that all the white paint on board was stained brown by sulphur
fumes. Next day we crossed over to Goodenough Island, but
landed first on an island which lies off the mainland. The
natives were shy at first, but soon got friendly. This
was covered with thick, coarse grass, which looked very
beautiful at a distance, but no one said it was pleasant work
walking through it on a wet day. After visiting two
villages, one with forty-seven houses in it, we followed the
Hygeia into a very deep bay, when crowds of natives came
round the ship in canoes. Goodenough Island at any rate
has a very dense' population, most of whom are fairly accessibly
as we saw large villages on the beach. We fortunately got

4S8

GEORGE BROWN

a good breeze, and managed to clear Dawson Straits befq
dark, after having had a very busy day.

On Saturday, August 9, we anchored in Sannariai, and wi
at Port Moresby on the nth, from which place we sailed
the 14th, and reached Townsville on August 20. Our voyage
was a very pleasant one. Captain Hennessey, his officers,
all on board the Merrie England, were very kind ind
Captain Thompson of the Hygeia, and Mr. Evanson, his c
officer, were equally kind, and, thanks to them, our life
board was a very happy one. To Sir William MacGrei
the Board of Missions presented their thanks for his g
kindness, and for the very valuable assistance he had o
stantly given us in our preliminary work. The value of
help he so freely gave can be known only by those of us v
accompanied him on the voy^e. I can only say that
did all that any one could do to make my mission a successful
one, and my stay on board as happy and as pleasant as it
was possible to make it ; and for this I was, and ever shall be,
very deeply grateful.

On my return I presented my report, and steps were
once taken for the foundation of the Mission. A number
European ministers who had volunteered for the work were
accepted, and a large party of native teachers from the Isl
Districts, who had also volunteered to go, were brought to
Sydney. The three-masted schooner the Lord of tite Isles
chartered, houses were built and put on board, together w
the varied and extensive outfit necessary for such a large
party. It would not have been possible for any single individ
to arrange all these matters in the short time at our dispo;
but by apportioning the work we were able to be ready
the time appointed. Mr. G. J. Waterhouse very kindly took
charge of all details with regard to the provisioning of the ship,
the engagement of the crew, and all matters connected with the
vessel. Mr. and Mrs. Bromilow and the other missionaries had
the responsibility of selecting furniture and household requisites ;

t ten

' I

jlM

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA

[whilst I attended to a number of other details. Seeing that
'we formed, I think, the largest party that ever left any port
,to establish a new Mission, I felt just a Httle pardonably proud
when our subsequent experience showed that nothing essential
to the comfort of the missionaries or the success of the Mission
had been foi^otten.

We left Sydney on Wednesday, May 27, 1891. Our party
consisted of the Rev. W. E. Bromilow, the chairman of the
Mission, Mrs. Bromilow and daughter, Revs. S. B. Fellows
J. T. Field, J. Watson, and Mr. Bardsley, for New Guinea;
Revs. R. H. Rickard, W. Brown and Mrs. Brown, for New
Britain ; and myself, tc^ether with a large number of teachers^
their wives and families, which, with the crew, made a total of
over seventy people.

I have not attempted any account of the reception of the
missionaries and teachers in Sydney, or of the farewell services.
I am well aware they ought to have been g^ven, and some day
I hope to do so, but at present I can only give a very short
account of our voyage and work.

We arrived at Samarai on Saturday, June 13. On Sunday
Mr. Bromilow preached in Fijian, Mr. Rickard in English, and
I in Tongan. On the Monday evening I gave a lantern
entertainment to the natives, which was highly appreciated by
tiiem. I showed the photographs which I had taken on my
{wevious visit, and there was great excitement, especially when
photographs of the prisoners who were arrested for murder, and
one of whom was hanged, were exhibited, and also when some of
the audience saw their own photos on the sheet. We were
able to finish all our customs business in one day. This was
due in no small degree to the courtesy and kindly assistance
given by Mr. Ballantyne, the collector of customs at Samarai,
who did all in his power to help us. We had a tedious voyage
of three days from Samarai to Dobu. We were becalmed
outside Dawson Straits, but very fortunately the Merrie England
arrive in port, and as soon as His Excellency knew that we
''were becalmed he instructed Captain Hennessey to go oat to

of kind actions for which we were ind<
I cannot give the account in detail
next few weeks. During a long exj
I have had many examples of
knew as much achieved in such at
accomplished in the first weeks of
nor have I ever laboured with
workers than those who formed th<
Lord of the Isles. There was a little
as to the site, as I was very unwilling
the land which had been selected
however, to purchase another site <fl
and then the work proceeded very rapi
clearing the ground the natives were
we came to a small piece where son
and this they positively refused to tfl
undertook the job of starting the oo
premises, and the land was soon r
the posts. My old experiences hac
lightning cross-cut saws in procuiM
provided with them ; but, in spite o
heavy. We had to go day after day
cut down large trees of suitable wood
grcenheart of India), a s(>ecies ofS
Some of these were very heavy indee
brought over in boats some five or s
it was comparatively slow work, and
the rest of the Sabbath. On Sund:
preached from, " One is your Master
afternoon I preached from, " Say m
months," etc. Nearly every one wi^
them were very down-hearted, and w<
trying to cheer them up. ■

It will give some idea of the wl
that the land had to be cleared ; ten:

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 491

for furniture and stores ; 1 26 hardwood piles, many of them
nine and ten feet in length, cut and boated over from Normanby,
erected in position on the ground and levelled ; all the timber
for two large houses to be landed ; houses for teachers to be
erected ; and a large mission house, sixty-six feet long by thirty-
five feet wide, to be built. All this was done in the short space
of three weeks, and the missionaries were in possession of the
house, which, though not finished, was quite habitable when we
left for New Britain. This result, I need hardly say, was only
achieved by hard work from daylight until dark each day,
often in pouring rain or under a tropical sun. The Rev. R. H.
Rickard and Rev. J. T. Field, from their experience and know-
ledge, were of inestimable value in building operations, and I
cannot say loo much in praise of their work. Where all worked
well it seems almost invidious to single out individuals, but in
this instance I am in no danger of grieving any of our pioneer
party, for we were all of one mind in this matter. Mr. Rickard,
indeed, was named " Quick, quick," by the natives, from his
saying that word to them so often.

During the time in which building operations were being
carried on I paid several visits in the whale-boat to Ferguson
Island, and to the villages on Dobu and Normanby Island.
We landed at many places, bought provisions, and made the
acquaintance of the people. One village consisted of about
a hundred houses built in a circle, and thus enclosing a
circular piece of ground, which appeared to me to contain a
number of graves. I made several long trips in the boat, and was
quite satisfied that there were enough people within a radius of
twenty miles to employ all the teachers we had taken with us,
if we could spare them, leaving none for the large district
beyond which was committed to our care.

On Sunday, July 12, Mr. Field preached in the morning, and
I gave a few words of advice and counsel to the mission party
and friends in the evening. The missionaries were then on
shore in their new house, and though it was, of course, not
finished, they were all glad to get away from life on shipboard.

GEORGE BROWN

of 33

3ssea

An I

Next day, July 13, the Aferrie England arrived agai
Governor came on shore, and seemed both pleased
prised at the progress which had been made. He was
impressed with the size and stability of the piles on
house was built, and evidently regarded it as a proof
meant to stay. He complimented Mr. Bromilow on possea
the finest house in New Guinea, a far better one indeed th,
himself had at Port Moresby.

On Tuesday, July 14, we set sail for New Britain!
left the mission party fairly comfortable, with the teachers
well housed, and the station fixed in the midst of a d{
population, amongst whom there was every prospect of
blishing a most successful Mission. Early in the mornin
Rickard and I went ashore, at 4 o'clock, to get the teache
as soon as possible. We had prayer in Samoan, Tongan, Fi
and English, just at dawn, in an empty house on the M
It was a strange gathering, and I could not help wond^
what was to be the future of the members of the party
met together for the last time. We had voyaged togcthi
the new field, had prayed and worked together, and had
alt privileged to take some part in the establishment 01
great Mission, and now we were to part, some to enter
upon their work in New Britain, others to labour there fo
first time ; some, again, to return home to the colonies ;|
the remainder to live and labour, we hoped for years, In
large and important district. It was a solemn meeting i
morning light, which was just spreading over the skies,
some of us felt it to be prophetical of the yet more gt
light which was to break upon the darkness of that great
in which our Mission was just commenced. Before we
fully finished our meeting, the Merrie England had
towards our ship, and we could hear the rattle of the wi
pawls as the crew were heaving up the anchor. So gi
had to be said to all on shore, and the sick wife of one
teachers to be helped down to the boat ; then a hurried
of the hand with the teachers, and soon we were pulling

TWO TYPICAL GIRLS OF DOELT,

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 493

tp, leaving our friends to their work in New Guinea. As
we left them we could hear their kind farewells in Samoan,
Fijian, Tongan, and English^ until we were almost alongside
the ship. In a few minutes we were in tow of the steamer, and
soon we passed safely the difficulties about which we had been
troubling ourselves for some days past. We alt felt deeply
grateful to Captain Hennessey and to His Excellency for that
t act of kindness. We should probably have had some
lifficulty in getting out of the Straits, even when we got the
reeze. As it was, we were safely towed out in the calm of
the early morning to a safe offing, and then the captain and
the many kind friends on board waved their farewell.

When we got to sea I wrote in my diary as follows ; " I
have been feeling very unwell lately, but this morning all sense
of bodily weakness and pain seemed to leave me„ as my heart was
full of devout thanksgiving and gratitude to God for His great
goodness to us all. I have felt deeply the great responsibility
of this voyage, and have had many fears and much anxiety at
times ; but now 1 have no other feeling than that of great
thankfulness. God has been very good to us, and, so far,
we have had no accident, nor any serious illness on board.
All our valuable freight and cargo for New Guinea is safely
landedj the station selected, land bought, the teachers and
missionaries safely housed, and this great Mission fairly begun,
and we again on our way to New Britain, in less than .seven
weeks since we left Sydney."

We arrived in New Britain on July 20, and dtd not leave

Ithere for Sydney until August r. During this time 1 visited

fnearly all the places so familiar to me in days gone by. My

old friend, Mr, Hernsheim^ on landingt asked me to go with

[him to Matupit, and I very gladly accepted his kind invitation.

'Mr. Hcrnsheim was the first visitor we had after our arrival In

1875, and since then be had been engi^ed in business tn that

group. On our way down we talked a good deal about old

times, and especially of his first visit to Matupit, when we

necessary. Now all had changed, :
and safe as any part of the world,
had a very fine station ; and a UM
and dwelling-houses stood on the u
and I landed sixteen years previoiisl
with the Imperial Chancellor, Herr S
ing our Mission, and he assured oS
authorities were most anxious to a
possible would be given to us in tb
as they were fully sensible of its gj^
the welfare of the people then under
On Saturday, July 25, we reach
once again on famiUar ground, thou
respects since I saw it ten years b
road seemed familiar to me, and aa
the mission house each part served
past years. I wrote a full account of
cannot reproduce it now. I will <
incidents connected with it. On 1
landing I preached at Molot, the fir«
a little doubtful as to whether I cc
but I found no difficulty in makiiif
and I preached with pleasure to mys
profit to the people. In the afternoo
of the other villages. On Mondi
examinations. It was a most intqfl
filled me with wonder, and with graH
God had given us. Aminio, the so
band, still lived in the district, and i
for himself. No man in the group ■
so dearly loved by the people. H
the change which had taken place In
we landed was such as no stranger
After leaving Duke of York I visil

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 495

Mr. and Mrs. Oldham were stationed, and had a kind reception
by them. On our way we passed the spot where my old friend
Taleli lived. Poor fellow ! He often sent me messages telling
me to come down again. He wanted to eat me once, but we
became good friends after that, and no one would have been
more glad to have seen me than old Taleli had he been living.

On August I we left New Britain on our return voyage.
We had a good ship, the Lord of the Isles, and a skilful
captain, but I never had more narrow escapes from shipwreck,
and never experienced a more anxious time at sea than I did
on this voyage. Our chronometer, as we found on our arrival
in Sydney, had altered its rate very seriously. On Sunday,
August 9, at 1.30 a.m. we found ourselves almost ashore at
Woodlark Island, before any one realised the fact that we were
running on to the cliffs with a seven-knot breeze. The captain
was on deck, but had just fallen asleep, when the man at the
wheel, who was alarmed by the sea getting very suddenly
smooth, woke him to ask if there was any land about, as there
was a heavy dark mass just ahead of us. I must have woke
just at the same time, as I heard the captain say : " Yes, that
is land right enough," and the helm was put hard-a-lee instantly.
Fortunately we had a fine breeze and a good ship, and so we
came round in good style, and were soon standing right away
from the danger. It was certainly a very narrow escape, for we
were not more than half a mile from the land, which was " steep-
to," when we discovered it. No vessel could have survived
the shock with which we should have struck at the rate we
were going ; and as the water was very deep close in-shore, we
should certainly have been in a most dangerous position. Next
day we again sighted land ahead, which surprised us a great
deal, as we were not expecting to see any in that direction.
On the following day the captain decided to run down to the
island, in order to verify his position. We found that it was
the island of Misima (St. Aignaud), and as we were thus quite
close to Panaieti, which had been suggested as a very suitable
place for the second station on New Guinea, I decided to

496

GEORGE BROWN

ougH

call there ; and I was very glad afterwariis that we did,
was able to leave a letter there telling Mr. Bromilow thj
considered the place to be suitable for a mission station.

On August 13 we made another start, passing throug
Jomard Passage. A week after that we had a very heavy seaj
but fortunately sighted Magdalene Kay, thus discovering thati
we had again drifted a long way from our proper course. Three
days after this we had another very narrow escape, as we foundl
ourselves at 3 a.m. close to an extensive reef, which we toolc
to be a part of Lihou Reef. We had not the slightest idea tha^
we were anywhere near this great danger. It was fortunately
light enough to enable us to sec a small sandbank, or we should'
not have known of the reef until we were on it. Next morning!
we sighted the reef again, but at the weather end, where thcrej
was no sandbank, but only an angry reef far out at sea. Had
we made the weather end in the night instead of the sand islctj
we should probably have lost the ship. We finally weathered!
the danger in the evening, and so kept on our course, I,
one, hoping that 1 should never see it ^ain, On August
wrote : " At length we have a fine day. Last night many^
our sails gave out. There was a heavy sea running, and as if
to spite us until the last the wind blew the hardest just bcfo
it changed. The last few puffs were too much for our
The lower top-sails and mizzen especially were so dams
that they had to be taken in and unbent, whilst nearly all thd
others were split or torn. This was the first fine day we had ha<i
for nearly a fortnight. Three days after this we ought to ban
seen Kenn Reef, as our sights and dead reckoning made us
be close to it at noon, but we could not see anything of
though a good lookout from the topsail yard was kept all dayj
This showed us again that our chronometer was wrong, and al
we had no confidence as to our position. As we were amongsl
great reefs in the Coral Sea, this was far from being plcasanl
On August 3 [ we had another escape, as we found at 8 a.c
that we were heading right in for Breaksea Spit, on the Grea
Barrier Reef Had we gone a little faster during the

heredi
n^i

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 497

we should have found ourselves on this dreaded reef before
it was light enough to show us our danger. We landed in
Sydney on Sunday, September 6, and I was very grateful indeed
to God that our important and eventful voyage was safely over,
and our New Guinea Mission fairly begun without accident to
any of the party or to the ship.

My third visit to New Guinea was in 1897, j"st six years
after the beginning of our Mission. I left by the ss. Titus^
Captain Williams, an old friend, who, as captain of the Borough
Belle, was associated with the Mission in its early days. We left
Newcastle on May 1 3, reached Cooktown on the 20th, and left
that port the same day, arriving at Port Moresby on Saturday,
May 22. I gladly again accepted Mr. Ballantyne's invitation to
stay with him. On landing I was met by another old friend, the
late Rev. J. Chalmers, so well known as one of the grand pioneers
of Missions in New Guinea. He told me that the Rev. Mr.
Cribb was seriously ill with fever, and on seeing that gentleman
I strongly advised Mr. Chalmers that he should leave the
district, for awhile at all events, in order to get medical treat-
ment in Australia. Mr. Chalmers placed the mission schooner
Niue at my disposal for a visit to Tupuselei, a town some
thirty miles down the coast, which several of our passengers
and I were anxious to visit. One of the photographs which
I reproduce will give a better idea of the village than any other
description could do. The resident teacher could not talk in
English, and we got on very badly until, to my utter astonish-
ment, he told me he was a Tongan. This changed matters at
once, and the old man's face beamed as he heard me speaking
the language he himself had well-nigh forgotten. He left
Tonga some forty years before, lived at Rurutu as a canoe
builder, then went to Rarotonga and became a teacher there,
and was sent to New Guinea at his own request.

We reached Samarai on May 28, and left in the Dove on
June I, with Mr. Bromilow on board. I have given elsewhere a
long account of this voyage, which was to me a most interesting

498

GEORGE BROWN

one, but am compelled in this account to omit all but
narrative. Wc anchored at Mudge Bay at Basilaki the
night, and at Tubetube, the station occupied by Rev. J. T. E
the next day. Mr. Field's house occupied a fine site, aal
mission house was very comfortable indeed. It undofl
testified most highly to the courage and hard work of the'
who planned and built it almost single-handed, at a mina
expense to the Society. Out next call was at Ware,_J
Island ; and on the following day, June 4, we sailed for
reaching there on the 5th. We landed within a short
of the spot where I landed with Mrs. Oldham in 1891,
way from New Britain to Sydney. We found Rev. A.
Fletcher living in a native house, and delighted to wek
to their lonely and difficult station. No one but
missionary can realise what excitement there was
landing, and what pleasure was experienced by the misstoa
and by the visitors. A few hours on shore were sui
show us very clearly that Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher had
done a grand work amongst these people, but that they
endeared themselves to them, and secured their love by
kindly interest which they took in every part of their lil

On Sunday the first service which was held was at a vil
some twenty minutes' walk from the mission station. It
in that village that Seluaia, the wife of the Tongan cafl
had been brutally murdered some few months previously, 1
native to whom neither she nor her husband had ever giver
slightest cause of offence. He was angry with a native do
man, and as he was not able to attack the policeman he fl
his brutal rage on the teacher's wife. She was in our ta
during the time we were in Tonga, and as I sat in the ch'
I thought much of the good, noble woman, whom we esteei
so highly, and who came so cheerfully with her husban(
their work in New Guinea. I gave a short address at
principal service in the afternoon, which Mr. Fletcher interpre

The next day was fully occupied with business connected.^
the Mission, and on Tuesday morning we left for

TO^ERTNGrN Nl^ GUmEA 499

].& hundred miles distant, Mr. and Mrs, Fletcher, with scMiie of
their convettSj accompanying us in the Dtwg. It was quite an
lucation for these people to be taken to a large flourishing
tation like Dobu, and did much to strengthen thera and to
lee pen their interest in the work. I was much affected by the
jrayer of one of Mr. Bromilow's students on board the Dove^
it our united family worship. He said : " O Lord, help us to
^have ourselves aright whilst these our Panaieti friends are
ith us. Oh, help us, that we may do nothing which would
Uscredit 'taparoro' (Christianity). Help us. Lord, that we
lay not show them anything that is wrong, but may all our
induct be such that they may see what true religion is." This
ras a good prayer, and was offered by a lad who was a wild
ivage when we landed in Dobu six years before. It abun-
Idantly proved here, as in every other place, that "if any man
in Christ Jesus he is a new creature." On Wednesday,
ftxtae 9, we reached Dawson Straits at night, and^ as the Dove
>uld not make much progress for want of wind, we took the
3at, and after a pull of eight miles reached Dobu at lO p.m.
Ls we landed we found that the Meda^ our mission schooner,
lad dropped anchor about an hour before us. She had made
fine run of sixteen days to Fiji, and of twelve days from
Ifji to Samarai.

On the evening of June 10 I wrote the following in my
Jownal : " This has been one of the memorable days in my
tfe. I have wandered about the station locating various points
of interest, and comparing the present state with that of six
duMt years ^o, when we first landed here. Then it was all
wfld bush ; the first sound of the Gospel had not been heard in
fhe land; the people were wild, dark, and ignorant, and they
neither knew us nor the message which we came to deliver.
To-day there is a beautiful station, well-kept gardens in front
of all the houses, a good church, a small hospital, teachers'
houses, houses of students, nearly a hundred people resident on
tiie station, boys and girls saved from a life of immorality and
ihi, itudMHi bring pcepared for the blessed work of preaching

to see acp aMi MHk a short
fint Tnh. He said : * Yoa are
Qs KD oiv oaricDCSBi aod
people of oar Omrch to SjrdiMy i
bat now the liglit is liiniiie. and
the darkness will pass away."
Sunday, June 13, my first
was. by a strange cotncideac^* 1
there six years before. It
Soodays I ever spent in the auaeSo
was packed widi people, diere be
present. As I looked on the large
so full of tears of joy that I coo^
hymn. During the opening semo
baptizing ten adult converts, whcH^
teaching and supervision, were recfl
our Church. I had then, therefore
different languages. I preached tc
X. 12: "There is no difference 1
Greek," etc., Mr. Bromilow interp

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PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 501

freedom. The remainder of the day was fully taken up in
visiting and holding services on the mainland of Ferguson
Island. We got back to Dobu at night, tired out, but very
thankful for such a day's work. The following days were spent
in visiting the surrounding districts.

On Friday, July 9, the Merrie England arrived at Dobu.
Mr. Bromilow and I went on board, and were kindly received
by His Excellency Sir William MacGrcgor. As the Governor's
visit was of necessity a very short one, he came ashore at once.
My readers will remember that in 1890, when I paid my first
visit to Dobu, Sir William warned me before setting out that
I must take great care or I might get knocked on the head,
as the natives bore a very bad character. I landed on that
occasion on August 4, 1890, and again on June 13, 1891, when
the Mission was commenced ; so that it was not quite seven
jrears from the time when His Excellency gave me that good
advice, and just six years from the commencement of the
Mission, when he again landed at Dobu. But this time about
nzty students, and the girls under the care of the Sisters, were
drawn, up on shore, all neatly dressed, and as His Excellency
steiq>ed on the beach they sang the National Anthem in
English. His Excellency took off his hat, and stood both
amazed and pleased at such a reception. He then went to
the church, saw the g^rls put through some drill, and heard
fbem sing, and highly complimented Sister Minnie on the
success of her work. He also expressed himself as very pleased
with the system pursued, of endeavouring in every way to make
school work as attractive to the children as possible. I have
often recalled a remark made by him during our conver-
sation that day. He asked me what vras the great change I
had noticed in the appearance of the people since we first
landed. I mentioned several things. But he replied: "No,
that is not it at all. Don't you see the people have quite a
different expression on their faces now? The change is not
a matter of dress, or even of manner, but an entirely different
■I^muance And exprea8i<»i." I had often noticed this, and we

IE!

502 GEORGE BT

missionaries had often talked of it. 1
under the influence of Christian tea
softening of their facial expressioi
intelligent interest, which were cen
Excellency manifested great symp<
and I spoke to him of the necessity
for the purpose of establishing a Di
for New Guinea teachers. He quite
work was to extend as it ought to 1
teachers in New Guinea. m

During the following days I was
the respective villages, and in arrang
Britain. It will be remembered tha
the mission schooner Afeda in New
her on my voyage to New Britain,
at Dobu, as I have mentioned. On
bring some cargo which had been
tunately wrecked near East Cape,
therefore, of my reaching New Br
schooner. The Dove is only fifty-o
thirty-six feet six inches on the ■
vessel of about fourteen or fifteen
decided to take her, as otherwise n
been completed. On Sunday. Jul]
service Mr. Bromilow and I gave tick
as well as members on trial, and I
After the service Mr. and Mrs. I
another new church at Normanby, a
to preach there, on my way to the /?<»
of Dobu for that visit. We left Ra
reached Kiriwina the following day,
received by Mr. and Mrs. Fellows,
very important Circuit, every hour oi
in visiting the teachers, chiefs, and
villages. On July 27 I started for o\
Britain in the little Dove. We had

strong currents, which often made it difficult to ascertain our
correct position. However, we fortunately reached Herbertshohe
early on Saturday morning, having made the voyage from New
Guinea in exactly four days, much to the astonishment of the
people there. I should much like to give an account of this
visit, which was full of interest to me, but this is not possible
in this work.

On Thursday, August 5, I went with Mr. and Mrs. Fellmann,
"Ifr. Crump, and Mr, Chambers, to Matupit, where we held
services in our beautiful large church there, and 1 had the
privilege of baptizing nearly a hundred adults, and giving a
short address to the workers. Amongst the number baptized
were some who had taken part in the murder of Sailasa, our
native minister, and the three teachers in 1878. On one
Sunday I preached at Molot in a large church, vvhich was
crowded with a most attentive audience. The language came
back to me, and I had no difficulty whatever in finding words
to speak to them again of the love of God as manifested in the
gift of Him who came to this earth of ours, and lived and died
(or us that we might live through Him. All the people were
neatly dressed, and as I recognised some who were wild, naked
savages when they first heard the truths we came to proclaim
it was difficult to believe that they were the lame people. It
was a pleasure to me to wander again over the old familiar
places, and to recall, when talking to the older men, the stirring
events of the past ; though this was not unmixed with sadness
as I visited the graves of our little ones, and remembered those
dark days when I and one very dear to me had to pass together
through the deep waters of affliction, and what then appeared
as hopeless sorrow.

Next day, August g, as I was desirous to see the whol«
of the District, we started early on a visit to New Ireland^
though this was rather risky at this season, owing to the heavy
surf which often broke on the coast of that island during the
south-east monsoon, and so made the landing difficult, and
often prevented a boat from leaving for several days. I did

504

BROWN

not want to be shut in there, but I was very anxious to see
the place and people again, and ascertain what progress, if any^
had been made in the District, which at first seemed so diflRcuIt
and unfruitful. So 1 determined to take the risk. We
services at Kabanot, and I had great freedom in speakii
the people. At the close of my address I made a sp<
appeal to the unconverted to decide for Christ that very day ;
and this appeal was not made in vain. As we were sitting in;
the teacher's house at night, a chief came and called thol
teacher out, when he told him that he had decided to give
his heart to Christ. He said : " You know, teacher, I re-
member the first time that Mr. Brown came to New Ireland,
and 1 heard him often during the years which he spent in
this land, and I reinember the .story which he used to tell us
then ; but I was never troubled until to-day. As 1 sat in thcj
church and listened, I said to myself: 'That is the same story
he told us years ago. It is not altered at all. He tells us
now, as he told us then, about the same great Father, the
same Saviour, the same way of salvation, the same heaven,!
and the same hell,' and I thought what a wonderful story it ii
Then I have been thinking about my life during all these
years ; my heart has been full of sorrow, and I have determined
to seek the loving Saviour about whom I have heard so oft
Some others also came and entered themselves as seekef
salvation. Sunday, August 15, which I spent at Kabakada,*
was the anniversary of my landing in this group twenty-two!
years previously.

The missionaries and residents were very unwilling for me
to return to New Guinea in the little Dove, and begged mc to
remain until a French ship-of-war returned from New Guinea
on her way to New Caledonia, The captain was made aware
of the fact of our rescuing some forty-two members of the'
unfortunate Marquis de Rays' expedition many years previously,'
but, unfortunately for himself, he neglected the opportunity
which was offered him of showing that the French nation was
not ungrateful for kindness shown to its distressed people.

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 505

Next morning, August 24, we started on our return voyage
to New Guinea. We had a very uncomfortable passage, as
we were four days becalmed off Cape St. George, and this
in a small 14-ton ketch, with a vertical sun in latitude
5" south, the cabin insufferably hot, no shade on deck,
and no awning possible from the swinging of the booms, was
not at all a pleasant experience. After this we had heavy
rains, thick, dirty weather, thunder and lightning, but with
little wind, except during occasional violent squalls. However
we reached Dobu on September 2, very glad indeed to get
ashore. I left next morning for Samarai, and was detained
there waiting for the steamer Titus. I determined, however,
to prepare against the contingency of her nonarrival, and
occupied some time in cleaning the Dove, taking out and
rest owing the ballast, in case I deemed it necessary to go in
her to Australia, This I finally decided to do ; and, much
against the advice of Captain S. and others at Samarai, we
left for Cooktown on Monday, September 20, at 3 p.m. and
passed Brummcr Island at 6 p.m. This passage is often a
very rough one, and so we found it to be, but we fortunately
had a good breeze, and next day at noon the little Dove had
run 176 miles in twenty-four hours. This was good work
for a little 14-ton ketch in a heavy beam sea, and it is not
difficult to realise that those on board of her had often to
hold on pretty firmly, and that her decks were kept well
washed down by the seas which she took on board. At noon,
on Wednesday, the 22nd, we found that our little craft had
placed 178 miles to her credit, as the result of twenty*four
hours' hard running. This was a very creditable performance,
but, unfortunately, we were prevented from taking full ad-
vantage of it, as we were compelled to heave-to for eight
hours to avoid running on the Great Barrier Reef of Australia
in the night. At daylight, Thursday, the 23rd, we entered the
reef, but not by the regular passage, and reached Cooktown at
4 p.m., just three days and one hour from Samarai, having
averaged about seven knots an hour. Two days afterwards

5o6

GEORGE BROWN

I left Cooktown in the steamer Cintra^ Captain Butcher in
charge, and reached Sydney on Monday, October 4, glad to
be at home again, and in good time for the General Conference,

On my fourth visit to New Guinea, I left in the ss. Moresby
on June 18, at 4 p.m. As soon as we were started and were
fairly outside the Heads we were able to take stock of our
passengers, and from the missionary point of view we certainly
had a very miscellaneous collection on board. Beginning with
the representatives of the Roman Catholic Church, we had
Bishop Vidal of Fiji, Bishop Broyer of Samoa, one priest, two
nuns, and two lay brothers. The Lutheran Church was well
represented by Rev. Pastor Flierl, his wife, and family, for
German New Guinea. Rev. E. Price Jones, from Madagascar,
who was going to his new station in New Guinea, and Miss Wells,
on furlough from China, represented the London Missionary
Society. Rev. E. M. Hines and Miss Kerr represented the
Anglican Mission in New Guinea. And Rev. A. and Mrs.
Fletcher, Miss Tinney, Mrs. Andrews and I were representatives
of the missionary workers of our own Church. In addition
to these there were on board fourteen of our teachers fi
Fiji, with their wives and children ; whilst the Roman Catho'
Mission had on board a similar number of teachers from Samoa,
Wallis Island, and Fiji, who were going to the Solomons.
Mr, and Mrs. Dobbie and Miss Chewings, from Adelaide,
and Mr. Beckett from Surrey Hills, Melbourne, a member of
the Victoria and Tasmania Conference Missionary Committee,
all of whom were deeply interested in our mission work, were
on board ; and we had also a number of other passengers w|
were making the round trip for health, pleasure, or busin
purposes. Captain Williams, my old friend, was in char]
and the voyage certainly proved that he had with him a
company of as genial and capable officers as I, at all events,
had ever travelled with. We called at Cooktown, and Thursday
Island, and reached Port Moresby on July 7. On July 9 wc
landed at Yule Island, which was the headquarters of the

itioo I

lOH^

ere ,

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 507

Oman Catholic Mission in British New Guinea, Ail our
assengers were received very kindly at the mission station
\y Archbishop Navarre; the priests, and lay brothers, and
|the sisters were all very kind and attentive to the ladies of
«r party, 1 had a long and interesting conversation with
e Archbishop. He expressed his pleasure at the opportunity
nieeting me, stating that he had heard of me so often during
is stay in New Britain, and also more recently from Sir
iliiam MacGregor, that I scarcely seemed a stranger to him.
Early on July 12 we reached Samarai, and 1 found the Dave
it anchor awaiting our arrival. I transhipped at once to the
*ove, with a few of our passengerSj and we started at 1 1 .30 a.m.
ne great object of my visit was to meet with Mr. Bromilow
nd the missionaries, and consult with regard to the establish-
cnt of a Training Institution in New Guinea, and for this
■urpose we deemed it necessary to examine first a portion of
,e coast of Normanby Island. We reached Bunama,^ the
tion of the Rev. J. T. Field, at 6.30 p.m. ; and as we had
lied some fifty mites from Samarai, the Dove again averaged
bout seven miles an hour for the whole distance. The mis-
ionaries and teachers in New Guinea used to say that I
brought the good winds with me when I visited them. I was
delighted \vith the new station at Bunama, which bore abundant
evidence of Mr. Field's hard work. We could not, however,
remain long there, and next day we proceeded on our way
to Dobu along the coast of Normanby. We anchored at
lewa, and then at Ubuia, in order to ascertain which of them
teas the best for the establishment of our Training College.
On leaving Ubuia we had a quick run to Dobu. My stay
in New Guinea was again full of interest and pleasure.

On Tuesday, the 18th, we left Dobu for German New Guinea.
The students and teachers were gathered together in front of
the mission house, and frequently shouted their musical
"kaioan" (farewell) in one full chorus as we passed along.
All our passengers were loud in their praise and admiration
of the people of Dobu, and of the wonderful work which had

5o8

BROWN

ftVNPn 1

been accomplished amongst them by our missionaries and
teachers. On Wednesday, the 19th, we were fortunately able
to land the Rev. Pastor Flier), his wife, and family, at their
own station at Simbang. in German New Guinea, much to their
satisfaction and comfort On Thursday we arrived at Friedrich,
Wilhelms Hafen, and afterwards at Stephcnsort On Tues<^^M
the 25th, wc steamed up the coast of New Britain. As 1^
passed the Father and Sons mountains, and other places, many
an incident of our long boat-journey down that coast some
twenty years before came back to my memory very distinctly.
We anchored at Herbertshohe at F i p.m.

On this, the first day of our landing, I called on my
friend, Mrs. Kolbe, of Ralum Plantation. There was a vi

in the house at the time, Mr. L , recently arrived from

Melbourne, who was very ill, and the medical officer who was
with him when we called, decided that the only hope for his
recovery was that he should at once leave the group; and,
whilst we were sitting there, he was carried out of the house
to be taken down to another part of the station, so as to be
ready to go on board the Moresby. He evidently felt the great
kindness of his hosts, and, as he left the verandah, he called
out to us, in a lOud, clear voice : " Well, good-bye, everybody."
We little expected that this was a final farewell, but in a few
hours afterwards, Mr. Fellmann received a note saying that
he had died soon after he left the station, and asking him
to conduct the burial service. Wc went to Mr. Parkins
residence at Ralum, but it was not until some time after d
that we were able to start for the cemetery. I have attended
many funerals in wild countries, as well as others in our own
lands, but I do not remember any which were so impressive
this one. There were about fifteen foreign residents pre
and a large number of natives. The cemetery was some dist
away, and the road to it was through groves of cocoanut p;
and dense tropical bush. The night was quite dark, but
could see the path very clearly by the light of large torches of
dried palm leaves, which were carried by a number of New

hiro J

iHf

WOMEN AND GIRLS, FRIEDEKICK WILHEMSKAFEN, GERMAN NEW GUINBA.

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 509

Britain and other natives who were employed on the station.
It was indeed a weird sight as the waving torches flashed their
light on the coffin, covered with black, borne by dark-skinned
islanders, and on the white dresses and clothing of the mourners.
Some of the natives ran on ahead, others were on the sides of
the track, and others again followed behind, and the light from
the torches which they carried was reflected from leaf to leaf
of the waving palms, and from the dark glossy leaves of the
tropical forest trees, until it was lost in the dark shadows of
the thick bush. Mr. Fellmann and I conducted the service ;
and very rarely have the words of our beautiful burial service
been read in circumstances more calculated to impress those
who heard them than on this occasion. The coffin had several
beautiful wreaths placed on it by the loving hands of those ladies
who had so kindly tended him in the last days of his life here.
These were placed there on behalf of his own loved ones who
were far away, and to testify at the same time to their own
sorrow for his early death, and their respect for his memory.
His friends and relatives were all unknown to most of those
who were present, but we all mourned for them, and special
prayer was offered by the side of the open grave that He who
is " the Father of mercies and the God of all comfort " would
comfort and sustain them in their great sorrow.

The next day, Thursday, July 27, was a great day at Matupit.
We held services in the fine large church there, which I de-
scribed on my last visit, and I baptized forty-four adults, who
had been carefully prepared and taught during their long pro-
bation. After service, we went to the native minister's house,
where the people were all assembled, and the New Britain
natives gave us an exhibition of one of their festive dances.
Then the Fijians gave us a very good Fijian tnekt^ and after-
wards the Samoans exhibited their skill in gesture-singing.
When this was finished I got one of the greatest surprises
of my life, when the people from the different villages came
up and presented me with a valuable lot of spears, stone clubs,
shells, baskets, etc. There was no speech-making on their

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worth that anxxint at the place x
did not reach Raliiana until late ii
wdl accustomed to native gatberi)
e^'cnts and excitement of this day <
I was unable to sleep much during t
On July 28 we landed at our ne
Rev. J. A. Crump had done a graa
and for the people, at the Training <

PIONEERING IN NEW GUINEA 51 <

whole ststioa was « proof of the energy, patience, endniaiice,
and hard work of Mr. Crump and all who had taken part in
it Mr. Crump lived for several months in a tent on the
Uand whilst the preliminary work was being done, and his
work was made possible during those trying times by the
■df-sacrifice and devotion of his good wife. She herself said
nothing about it ; but those of us who knew how bravely she
did her work, and how patiently she bore her share in all the
discomforts and hardships which had to be endured, could
lolly appreciate the value and devotion of her service. On
our passage to Sydney after leaving New Britain we spent
lome weeks in the Solomons, but this I will describe in my
account of that group. We reached Sydney on August 22.

My fifth visit to New Guinea was made in 1905, when I
joined the mission yacht George Brown at Samarai, on my
fetum from the Solomon Islands vi& New Britain in that
year. We met the Rev. W. E. Bromilow at Samarai, where
he had gone to send Mrs. Bromilow, who was very unwell,
to Sydney. After the Willehad^ in which Mrs. Bromilow
was a passenger, had left for Sydney, we embarked on board
the yacht, and proceeded to Ubuia, where active preparations
had for some time been carried on in the commencement of
the lar^e Training College for that District Whilst the vessel
was discharging the large cargo which she took, Mr. Bromilow,
my daughter, and I, went on to Dobu, where I had again the
great pleasure of meeting with all the members of the District,
who were gathered for their Annual Synod. I was delighted to
hear the good report which they were able to give of the work
of God in their respective Circuits. Mr. and Mrs. Bromilow
were the only two left of the pioneer party which I conducted
there in 1891, and Mr. Bromilow had recently crowned his
great work in that District by the completion of the translation
of the New Testament into the New Guinea language.

We left in the George Brown on October 17 for New
Britain* in order that we m^ht proceed to Sydney from there

513

GEORGE BROWN

as no suitable opportunity offered from New Guinea. Ow'm^
to calms and light winds, we had a long passage of about eight
days to Herbertshohe, at which port we arrived on October 24
After waiting for about a week we were enabled to leave b|
the fine mail steamer Prms Waidtmar, and reached Sydney
on November 8, after a very fine passage. When we returned
from New Britain in 1881, with my wife and children, we had
to make the voyage in the John Hunt, a small vessel d(
about thirty tons, and were several weeks on the passage;
90 1 felt very thankful that the change of circumstances enabled
us to make such a plea:!iant voyage as we had just cooiplcted.

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5i6

GEORGE BROWN

landed first at Faisi, in the Shortlands Group, and whilst the
vessel was discharging cargo I took the opportunity of visiting
several of the villages. VVe spent one day in the village
Mokosaia, the residence of the great chief Wari. This man
had great influence in his own district, and in the surrounding
islands. Both he and some of the other chiefs often acted with
great cruelty towards their people when they had offended them.
I could give some shocking details about the doings of the
old chief Gorai, which I first heard on undoubted authority
many years before our visit. Alu was formerly one of the
stations of Captain Ferguson, and when the people knew that
I was not only an old friend of his, but was also the legal
guardian of his son, they were much interested and pleased.
We visited one of the " tambu " houses, and saw the carved
image or totem pole, which made the house prohibited to any
woman or uninitiated person. A few days afterwards we called
at Ruviana, where our head station now is. It may be well
for me to say here, in view of the decrease of populat
which is now so noticeable in the Solomons, that even
I noticed a great apparent decrease in the population from
that which I had seen some twenty years before ; and the
opinion which I expressed, that there had been a great decrease,
was confirmed by the traders to whom I spoke.

At Ruviana I met again my old friend Mr. Frank Wickl
one of the oldest residents in the group, and we all receive
very hearty welcome from him. He himself had to leave
home to attend to business matters on the Moresby^ but wil
genuine island hospitality he gave up his house and all it
contained to my absolute disposal. He took me round, showed
me where his stores and trade were kept, and said : " Take
anything that you want, use the boats and boys as you need
them, and make yourselves as comfortable as you can, and for
as long as you please." We certainly took full advantage of
our privileges. The Ruviana natives were the most notorious
head-hunters in the Pacific, and were continually making raids
on the neighbouring islands to obtain those ghastly trophic

weu

thH

jmmL

SOLOMON ISLANDS. FIJI— EVENTIDE 517

especially when a new "tambu" house was built, a canoe
landed, or when some great ceremonial feast was to be held.
The large island of Ysabcl, where the Spaniards under Mendana
first landed about three hundred years previously, was at that
time very populous, but, owing to the raids of the Ruviana
head-hunters, there were at the time of our visit only a few
villages left, except at the east and west ends of the island ;
and the same effects were noticed on Choiseul. Since Great
Britain assumed the protectorate of the group, and a Resident
Commissioner was appointed, this horrible custom of head-
hunting has been practically stopped, though there are occa-
sional instances of it at the present time when it can be
carried out without the knowledge of the officials.

The principal chief, Ingava, was not well, and was staying
at an island some miles away, so we did not sec him. I wrote
in my diary at the time : " For some reason or other neither
he nor his people want missionaries to live here. I wish,
however, that our Church would give some of us the opportunity
of beginning Christian work amongst them ; it would be a
glorious work to win these souls for Christ, and I am sure it can
be done." At the time I wrote this I had no expectation that
our Methodist Church would so soon undertake the work, and
that it would be my privilege to commence it. On our
return from a visit to a place called Kokorapa, where we went
to inspect a large wooden idol or "totem" pole we called
again on Mr. N. VVheatley, and much enjoyed a talk with
him. As we sat on his verandah we saw the large island
of Rendova in the distance, on which, Mr. Wheatlcy told us,
some sixty-two white men and women had been murdered
in the past few years. We called also on this visit at Savo and
Gavutu. At the latter place Mr. Nielson had a very fine
station, to which he gave us a very hearty welcome, and did
all he could to make our short stay as pleasant as possible.
We also called at Neal Island and Aola. On August 11 we
reached Marau Sound, and had a walk to the little cemetery on
the top of the island on which the trading station was located.

518 GEORGE Bl

We saw here one of the skull-hds

feature in all the villages in the

relatives are first exposed, either o

canoes amongst the mangrove busl

the skull is brought away, and place

set up on a post or, in some instan^

of food are placed near it, especial^

At this time several of our passe

were ill with severe remittent fever,

contracted in German New Guinea

especially were very ill, and we ha<!

each night with them ; and on

Hawley, from England, died at 7

so quietly that it was some little

had passed away. A coffin waS"

This was placed in the boat, cove

and then a sorrowful party went*

The boat was towed to Crawford Is!

on the top of that lovely island the t

solemn burial service was read,

offered for the bereaved ones in t

On Saturday, August 19, one of m

board witnessed for the first time

burial at sea. Our list of sick was

of the cases gave us much anxiety

Sydney on August 22, and we

proper medical treatment

The necessity for this Mission '
consideration of the Board of Missic
to year of requests and petitions
islanders living in Fiji, many of
under the ministry of the missionari
local preachers and officers of our^
to return to their own land, but reu!
or teacher went with them

SOLOMON ISLANDS, FIJI— EVENTIDE 519

with their wishes^ did not feel free to incur the responsibility of
any Mission at that time. In the year 1901, however, the
matter was fully discussed by the General Conference, and
it was resolved, "That, in view of the whole facts, and the
earnest call of the Solomon Islanders in Fiji, and in view also
of the fact that the vast portion of the Solomons is at present
absolutely without Gospel teaching, this Conference directs the
Board of Missions to start a Mission In the Solomons in such
parts as may seem most desirable and practicable, and at the
earliest possible time," In accordance with this resolution, I
was directed by the Board to visit the group to make all possible
inquiries, and to collect the information necessary to enable them
to decide upon the best measures for carrying out the in-
structions of the General Conference.

I left Sydney with my daughter in the s.s. Titus, on July 3,
and encountered very heavy weather. The vessel was deeply
laden, and in the heavy cross-sea shipped a great deal of water,
so much so that the captain decided to pump out some sixfy
tons of fresh water in order to lighten her. We called at
Norfolk Island, where I had an interview with the Bishop of
Melanesia and the other missionaries. After leaving Norfolk
Island, we visited Vila in the New Hebrides, Aola, Gavutu, and
then entered the beautiful Maravo Lagoon, at the south-east
end of New Georgia, by the Yokohama passage. We were all
amazed at the beautiful scene which presented itself to our gaze.
It is absolutely impossible to convey any adequate idea of the
wondrous beauty of the lagoon. It commences at some islands
lying to the south-east of New Georgia, running in a north-east
direction about forty-five miles, in a direct line. The width
varies from three to ten miles in the main portion of the lagoon,
and then decreases to a narrow channel at the north-east end.
The whole of the lagoon is studded with beautiful islands of ^|
varying sizes, all of which are wooded, the bright foliage con- ajj
trasting very charmingly with the blue of the deeper parts of the
lagoon and the brighter green of the shallow patches. The
outside line of long bw islands evidently marks the line of an

520

GEORGE

•SJ

old barrier red. Wc were not
but it was very evident, both from 1
and by the white rocks which were v
are of coral formation. The people
far as I could gather, there was no
near our anchorage. Soon after J
Bera, a 6ne old man of good ph)^
I went ashore with him, and took th(
the object of my visit, and tried to
success of mission work in our otifl
all sympathetic, and expressed hifli
any missionaries living with or near
missionary come, we will die : all M
the principal station of the Meiancs
asked him if none of his people had
" Only one." I replied : " Go and as]
have done for Fiji, and then you will
to have missionaries with you,"

We reached Ruviana on the 2t
state of great excitement over a lar{
principal chief, was about to give to
new house which he had just built
house would not have been opened \
had been secured for the occasion ;
not done was a proof of the influem
exerted by the Resident Commissionc
his colleague, Mr. Mahaffy, since
Protectorate. It was soon very cleai
would have to be exercised in dealing
as they were evidently strongly opp
commenced. I talked with Ingava, '
to him directly of our wishes. I ga\
evening, and showed the people whai
other people like themselves. Th
people of Fiji, New Guinea, and otJ
introduction of Christianity, and wb^

zdl

SOLOMON ISLANDS, FIJI— EVENTIDE 521

have said before that Mr. Wickham, one of the best known
traders there, was an old personal friend of mine, and he did all
he could to help me. No man had more influence with Ingava
than he had, and it was through him that I made most of my
communications to that chief. I soon, however, decided not to
risk a refusal by asking for Ingava's permission to come. I was
quite convinced that there would be no danger in our coming,
and that any objections some of the chiefs and people might
make would soon be removed. I therefore contented myself
with doing the best I could to make a favourable impression on
the old chief and the people ; and this I think I succeeded in
doing, Mr. Woodford kindly placed the Government schooner
Lahloo at my disposal, in order to enable me to visit the island
of Simbo, and Mr. Mahafify, the Deputy Commissioner, ac-
companied me on the voyage. I had an interview with the
principal chief, Belangana, a fine old man, with a most be-
nevolent expression ; and yet he was one of the greatest head-
hunters in New Georgia. It seemed hardly credible that such
a quiet-looking old man had been a leader in so many
sanguinary expeditions. After returning to Gizo I had several
long talks with Ingava and the people, but carefully avoided
making any direct proposition to him. Mr. Mahaffy was very
kind indeed, and in every possible way did his best to assist me.
I left Gizo in the Lahloo for Ruviana, but joined the whale-boat
at Ferguson Channel, and reached Mr. VVickham's station after
being two hours in the schooner and eleven hours on board the
boat. On Monday, August 5, I joined the steamer outside the
reef, after a very narrow escape from being swamped as I crossed
the bar in a whale-boat. On the return voyage we visited Santa
Cruz, where Bishop Patteson and Commodore Goodcnough were
murdered. Our voyage back was by way of Vila and Norfolk
Island, arriving in Sydney on August 28.

After communicating my report to the Board of Missions,
it was decided to begin the Mission, and I was instructed to
make the necessary preparations ; but it is not necessary for me
(o describe the work whi(;h this involved, The Island Districts

522

GEORGE BROWN

of Fiji and Samoa were applied to for volunteers, and, j
previous occasions, the appeal was nobly responded to.
Rev. J. F. Goldie, from Queensland, and the Rev. S. R- Roon
from South Australia, also volunteered. Mr. Rooney's appoi
ment was exceedingly appropriate. He is the grandson
the late Rev. Stephen Rabone, a well-known missionary.
General Secretary of Foreign Missions. His father, the R(
Isaac Rooney, spent some twenty-four years in the Pacific, ai
his mother died whilst on her way to New Britain, and
buried on one of the islands of the group to which her son
going. The offer of Mr. J. R. Marlin, a Methodist layman,
known as a Christian worker in Neiv South Wales, in rcspoi.
to an appeal for a missionary carpenter, was gladly accepted I
the Board. Mr. Martin volunteered for the Mission because!
desired to assist as far as he could in the noble enterprise of 11
Church to which he belonged ; and I should like here to recoi
that he rendered splendid service in the erection of the missM
houses in the Solomons, after which he proceeded to N<
Britain, but was compelled to leave that District by failii
health, and died some years afterwards in Orange. He was
good man, a devoted Christian, and an earnest worker for I
good of the natives amongst whom he lived.

At a special meeting of the Board of Missions, held i
April 30, resolutions of sympathy and love to the missionari
and teachers were passed by the Board, and these were aft^
wards presented at a large valedictory meeting held in ti
Centenary Hall. At this meeting, which was under the auspid
of the Ladies' Auxiliary Society, there was a large gathering
missionaries, as, in addition to the Solomons contingent, farewi
was taken of the Rev. C. O. and Mrs. Lelean, Rev. W. E. ai
Mrs, Crawford, Rev. C. and Mrs. Bleazard, who were all goiJ
to Fiji ; Rev. E. \V. and Mrs. Caust to Rotuma ; Rev. E. '
and Mrs. Neil to Samoa ; Rev. C. and Mrs. Doley to N<
Britain, and Rev. E. J. Piper to Cairns. We left in the j
Ti'/us on Friday, May 22, 1902, I have already given 1
names of the missionaries, and now place on record those

RETtKN Of- li

1 KiiM AN EXPEDITION.

A WAS CANOE STARTING ON EXt'EDITIOX.

SOLOMON ISLANDS, FIJI— EV]

►

our native colleagues. From Fiji : Joni Laqere and Miriaml
his wife, Aparosa Rakuita and Keleraani his wife, Wiliami
Gavidi, Rusiate Sawatabu, and Samu, a native of the Solomon
Islands who had been converted in Fiji. Froni Sanioa : Muna
and his wife Tnpuaga, Saiast and his wife Tupuai, Seru and his
wife Avane, and Ulu, a New Hebrides islander who had lived
a long time in Samoa. We reached Gavutu on May 22, and
were joined at that port, much to my satisfaction, by
Mr. Woodford, the British Commissioner, on a visit to the
western part of the group on business connected with the
Government

We anchored at Ruviana on May 23, 1902, a day which will
be historical as that on which the Solomon Islands Mission was
definitely commenced. I had great pleasure at a later date in
conveying to Mr. F, Wickham and Mr. N. Wheatley the sincere
thanks of the Board of Missions for the assistance which they
rendered to us in those days ; but that can express only very
inadequately the gratitude which we on the spot all felt for the
kindness we received from them. Our reception by the people
was just as I had expected, and fully justified the action I had
taken on my previous visits. There was no active opposition
from the chiefs or from the people. They did not receive us
with any enthusiasm or cordiality, but, on the other hand, they
took no steps to prevent our landing. One old chief, however,
from the island of Ruviana was very excited, and as he was
haranguing the natives, and trying to make them as excited as
himself, I thought it time to interfere. After a few kindly
words I asked him where he came from, and he told me from
Ruviana " Well, go back and stay at Ruviana, and do just as
you like there. We will not interfere with you until you ask
us to go. I have got a little island on which we intend to Uve^
and you need never come near us unless you wish to do so.'*
After a little more quiet talk he went away, and I did not see
him again for some weeks.

On Sunday, May 2$, I conducted the first service ashore in
this Mission, and I (hin^ it well to give a brief account of it, as

it will show the principles on which wc
which I continuously gave to the teacher^
Wheatley's station early in the morning
in front of his house in the open air.
teachers in Fijian and Samoan, and
mixed kind of scr\'ice- I gave out
and voice I raise," in English, then gi
translation of the same hymn in the
Samoan hymn-book. The Fijians and
to the same tune, ' Ascalon,' whilst we
was the only one who understood the
I have no doubt it sounded all right t
Then I read the lesson alternately in
gave the address separately to each
I felt the responsibility of my position
was very thankful afterwards for the
of counsel and advice which I offered c
on the minds of the teachers. I knew
in the past the mistakes which men pl^
which they were were liable to make iai
the people, and the trouble which might (
assumption of superior power, or by tj
overbearing conduct on their part towari
whom they lived. I told them, very.ean
power in the world was that of love, and t
to win the people by proving in every w|
and that we had come to them because
because Christ died for them, and had |
Gospel to them to save them from thai
His name. I followed this up from ti
kindly words of advice with regard
the people.

Our time was fully occupied in thi
the commencement of a large station,
labour as we were able to do when we
Guinea Mission, and our work conseque

1^
1^

SOLOMON ISLAKDS, FIJI-^EVENTIDE 535

than it would ottwrwise have done. Mr. Wickham and Mr.

Wheatley were veiy kind in lending us some of their native
labour, and after we had secured a site on the mainland Mr.
Mahaffy kindly brought a large number of the constabulary,
who rendered us very valuable help. Previous to this, however,
our time was fully occupied in cutting the heavy piles required
for the foundation of the house at Nusa Songa, boating them
over to the island, and conveying some of the timber and goods
to the station.

NOTES OF VOYAGE TO YSABEL ISLANDS, LORD HOWE
(ONTONG JAVA), AND TASMAN GROUPS.

Mr. Woodford, the British Resident Commissioner, having
very kindly offered me the opportunity of visiting these little-
known groups, in the Government schooner, which was being
sent on a visit of inspection, I gladly availed myself of his kind
offer, as, from previous information and knowledge, I was
strongly of opinion that these groups, peopled, as they were said
to be, by a Polynesian race, would be a grand field of work
for our Tongan and Samoan teachers, which could easily be
supervised from Ruviana. I have written a long account of this
most interesting voyage which was printed in the Missionary
Review, but can only give a brief abstract here.

We left Ruviana on June 13, and after reaching Ysabel we
passed through a large sound, about twelve miles south-east of
Manning Straits, where the island is pierced by a deep water-
way dotted with islands of varying size. We were, in fact, on
the track taken by the Spaniards three hundred years before,
when they first discovered the group. On Monday, June 16, we
reached Kia, near Port Praslin, and after a rough passage
from there we entered the large lagoon on the evening of
Tuesday, the 17th, very thankful to be in a safe and good
anchorage. The atoll, which is called by the natives, Lua Niua,
and is known on the charts as Ontong Java, is, I believe the
iaigest single atoll in the world. The natives^ we soon fbiui^

f T

were ol the Eastem Polynesian
teacber who accompanied me coul
words and scMZie of their sentenc

We landed od June i8.
natives came out on the reef^ ea
string of cocoanut leaves, with soG
One of them went on each side
leaves, etc, over our heads, whilst
up some pra>'er or incantation.
sickness or ill-luck that we might
atoll is about a hundred and twen^
at some places is very* wide ; in fal
in the schooner we were often out o
sides of us. The reef is dotted with
many cocoanut palms. None of the
a mile in width. There are also <
l^oon itself. We first called on th(
to be a typical Polynesicui chief, ver]
He had evidently very great influeni
occupied a position very difTercfl
most of the Melanesian chiefs I have
we looked in at the heathen temple,
inside. The chief priest and his a
but did not come out to see us^ ^1
repair. It was about fifty feet in «
wide. At one end there were two
considerably over life-size We w«
a man who had been to sea, that ■
the other a female of the same genus
feet of the figures, were two ima^
the family. The house was full (
every kind of fish, and of all the ani
have any acquaintance. So far as w
functions of the priests are to m
sickness, avert misfortune, control t
generally, to do everything which t

5»6

GEORGE BROWN

were of the Eastern Polynesian race, for I and the Sai
teacher who accompanied me could understand many of
words and some of their sentences.

We landed on June i8. As we neared the beach,
natives came out on the reef, each holding the end of a
string of cocoanut leaves, with some very young nuts tied <
One of them went on each side of the boat, and brushed
leaves, etc., over our heads, whilst the old priest on shore ofl
up some prayer or incantation. This was to drive awajj
sickness or ill-luck that we might be bringing with us. '
atoll is about a hundred and twenty miles in circumference
at some places is very wide ; in fact, when we were beatiq
in the schooner we were often out of sight of the reef on
sides of us. The reef is dotted with islands, containing a
many cocoanut palms. None of the islands, I think, exceed!
a mile in width. There are also a number of islands ii
lagoon itself. We first called on the chief, Uila, and found;
to be a typical Polynesian chieC very dignified and very p
He had evidently very great influence amongst the pcopleJ
occupied a position very different to that which is hel|
most of the Melanesian chiefs I have known. On our wa/|
we looked in at the heathen temple, but were not allowed I
inside. The chief priest and his attendants were seated \
but did not come out to see us. The building was not in I
repair. It was about fifty feet in length, by about twenty
wide. At one end there were two large, rudely carved fig
considerably over life-size. We were told in ptdgin-Engll
a man who had been to sea, that one was a " male devil,'
the other a female of the same genus. On a lower platform,
feet of the figures, were two images of children, to co
the family. The house was full of carved representatioi
every kind of fish, and of all the animals with which the n
have any acquaintance. So far as we could gather, the pritj
functions of the priests are to make spells for the cu^
sickness, avert misfortune, control the winds and weather^
generally, to do everything which the people wish them

!i:

SOLOMON ISLANDS. FIJI-^EVENTIDE 527

It is a pretty luge order, but^ finm all I conld hear, the people
have full confidence in their powers.

We then walked to what I consider one of the most
interesting places I have visited, namely, the very peculiar
graveyards in these islands. Contrary to the general custom in
the Pacific, all the dead are buried together, and not, as is the
usual custom, near the houses where they have lived. The
cemeteries here are in open cleared spaces covered over with
white sand, and they are kept most scrupulously clean, not a leaf
or piece of dirt being allowed to remain upon them. Every grave
is marked by a large upright coral slab, which, in many instances,
is highly coloured, and the top of the slab is also frequently
covered with pandanus leaves. It was a most affecting sight to
see some of the mourners for a child, which had been dead some
months, sitting over the grave with heads bowed down, and in
complete silence. They had erected a small rude hut close to
the grave, and in this way lived for at least a year, most of
which time was spent in sitting or lying on the grave by day
and night One poor widow was carefully and tenderly sweeping
the sand over her late husband's grave. Some of the laige
slabs were in the shape of a crosa On one of these places there"
was a rudely carved figure. In the cemetery of the chiefs
fiEunily a number of women were sitting over the grave in which
his deceased wife had been lately buried, and for whom the chief
was still in deep mourning.

My intercourse with these people was made much easier
by finding one native who had lived some years in Samoa,
another who had lived in Tonga, and a third who had been for
some years in Fiji. All these knew the respective languages,
and, as I understood them all, I was able to talk with them, and
get them to explain the object of our coming. The women, I
noticed, had their hair cropped very close, but the men had
the same wavy black hair that the Samoans have, and in
many instances they wore it just as the old heathen Samoans
used to do. All the men were very much disfigured by the
custom of slitting each nostril, in which th^ inserted a pendant

5^8

GEORGE BROWN

made of tortoise-shell. The men had two distinct kinds
tattooing, which, I am inclined to think, were distinctive badd
of their respective " totems." Some of them had beards, b
the majority had little or none at alL Every time we landf
we had the string of cocoanut leaves dragged over our heaq
so I think they kept free from all diseases.

On June 22 we ran down to the island of Pelau, in
lagoon, about thirty-three miles distant, and from there \
visited the Tasman Group, the native name of which is Numai
This a fine atoll, like an elongated horse-shoe in shape, with ^
entrance through the reef at the open end. There is no cntra:
all round the circular part It was very wonderful to see
atolls in the midst of the wide, open sea, with deep blue w
right up to the great breakwater of coral which enclosed
comparatively shallow lagoon inside. The reef is dotted
its whole extent with islands and islets, all of which
evidently growing in size year by year. Each island has a b
of pure white sand at either end, showing newly made land ;
some cases two or more islets are nearly united, and ot
show that they have been united in years past We had
very interesting fact made clear to us. In a chart (the
recent one) made of Numanu in 1S88, there was only one is^
at the entrance of the passage by which we came into
lagoon, and a number of stones were marked on the ch
little farther south ; but at the time of our visit that place
an islet, with a number of cocoanut trees on it, most, or all,
which appeared to be in full bearing. We noticed also that
another passage where a reef was marked in the 1 888 ch
there were then four cocoanut trees growing on it. We foi
good deep water in the lagoon, and were most of the aftem(
beating up with a nice breeze.

Whilst on this group I visited some curious wells, w
some hawksbilt turtles were kept confined. There were ele
wells, which formerly were all filled, but at this time only twi
them were occupied by the turtles. They arc caught young,
placed in these wells, which are connected with the tide, and

)mE

> Ml

l'^

', \

pa-

li'

SOLOMON ISLANDS. FIJI— EVENTIDE 529

animals are fed regularly every day with shell-fish. The top of
each well is covered over with logs and cocoanut leaves, so that
the turtle lives in a state of semi-darkness, and this, I think, is
to cause the shell to preserve the amber or yellow colour whidt
the people value so much. Each turtle is stripped of one or
more plates of shell every year, and then put back into its well
to grow more. It seemed very cruel to us, but the natives
appeared to think that the turtle does not object to the process,
as he is well fed every day with shell-fish.

Some old ladies there gave us a series of very vigorous
dances, which appeared to consist of some kind of challenge by
the orchestra, which was responded to by the dancers by voice,
gesture, and dancing. It was all very good-natured, and
provoked great laughter, without the slightest appearance of
anything objectionable either in word or gesture. Two of the
oid ladies got so excited that, amid roars of laughter, they
attempted to rub noses with me, which is the nearest approach
to kissing that they have. I objected, of course, but when the
dance was over, and we were coming away, they both came
forward, took my hand, and we rubbed noses together in the
most friendly manner.

We, of course, visited the temple of the patron saint, or
* devil-devil," Puapua. The temple is a very large building, but
is nearly falling down. The pillars were all covered with plaited
sinnett, and when the building was new it must have been very
imposing indeed. The idol was by far the best I have seen, and
it seemed to us that it was regarded by the people as being the
representative of the deity or devil, and that it was worshipped
by them. The remains of the old Puapua were visible around
the feet of the new one, notably the remains of his helmet, with
long points indicating spears. Our guide told us with great •
gravity that the old fellow used to kill too many people, so
when he got into a state of disrepair, and they made a new idol,
they made his head-gear much smaller, and did not put so many
spear points on it, nor make them as long as in the previous
case^ and so souf^t to curtail his powers of mischfef.

r' I

t-r

SOLOMON ISLANDS. FIJI—EVENTIDE 531

preached amongst them, and we will wait until the door it
opened for us to enter." And so those two brave men lived in
a small boat anchored near the shore of the lagoon for more
than three months, during which time they were often short of
food, and for some days without water, until a native swam off at
night with some cocoanuts for them to drink. They were very
rarely allowed on shore, and were compelled to sleep in the
boat during all those weeks. At length a chief from another,
island asked them to go to him, and they commenced the work
there, with the result that in the course of two years they had
three large churches built in the principal places of the groups
including the town in which they were at first forbidden to land,
and the great bulk of the people were regular attendants at the
schools and services. No more heroic act has been recorded in
modem missions than that of those two devoted men.

On our return to Ruviana I succeeded in purchasing a large
piece of land for the principal station, on which a good house
was subsequently erected, and a flourishing Mission conducted
by the Rev. J. F. and Mrs. Goldie. Rev. S. R. and Mrs. Roonqr
subsequently removed to the island of Choiseul, and they also
liave been signally successful in the work which they have been
privileged to do in that large island.

I visited the group again in 1905, and was much pleased
with the wonderful progress which had been made. Mr. Goldie
had planted the whole of the land which we purchased with
cocoanuts, and this in itself was a valuable object-lesson for the
people, in teaching them the value of their waste lands.

FIJI

I can say but little of my experience in this great Mission.
The story of Fiji, and the wonderful success which has been
achieved there, would require far more space than can possibly
be occupied in this work, and I content myself with giving an
extract from a " Brief Account of Methodist Missions," which
I wrote some time ago: "Up to the year 1835 the darkness of
a most cruel and revolting heathenism still covered the whole

53»

GEORGE BROWN

of the islands, and gross darkness the hearts of the people,
no other land in these seas were the people more cruel than
Fiji, and nowhere did the chiefs wield a more despotic po\V
We owe this grand Mission, as also our Samoan Mission, to t
constraining love of Christ in the hearts of men who accept

Him as their Saviour in that great Pentecostal outpouring
the Spirit of God in Tonga in the year 1834. The men
women who were so abundantly blessed in that great revi
were filled with an intense longing that all the world should
partakers of the peace and joy which filled their own h
They pleaded for Fiji with a power which was irresistible,
in a few months Messrs. Cargill and Cross, yielding to t
entreaties to be led to preach Christ to the heathen, took ch
of a number of these devoted men, and together they land
Fiji on October 12, 1835.

" No more apparently hopeless task could have been un
taken, when those two solitary white men and a few of t
Tongan converts landed to attack the very citadel of Sal
and were confronted by at least 140,000 of the most fierce
cruel savages in all the Pacific groups. But God was with th
and when the history of the Church of Christ in the last cent
is written, one of the most marvellous facts which the histoi
will have to record will be the wonderful work of God wl
has been done in Fiji, and the glorious success with which
has blessed the labours of His servants there. Few pc
realise the magnitude of the work done, and the greatness ol
success which has been achieved. We can give statistics wl
tell of the numbers of our churches, the extent of our Cii
and the number of the members and adherents, but these
give no correct idea of the actual result. We cannot tell of
thousands whose lives were changed by the power of Di
truth, to whom new ideals were given, who were led ste
step from low to higher levels of Christian experience, and
made new men in Christ Jesus, who testified by their daily
to the reality of the change, and passed from earth to hea
in the sure and certain hope of a glorious resurrection.

Photo by Mr. H. P. M. Berry.

" A STUDY IN BLACK AND WHITE."

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534

GEORGE

rf\

as a missionary to Samoa, then as
the New Britain Mission, and, for tl
General Secretary for Missions, he
unbroken missionary service of no
During his connection with the S
extended to New Britain, New G
Islands, and it has been Dr. Brown's
have played a prominent part in
Missions. As Special Commissioner
stage of the history of our work there,
service. Full of missionary enthusi^
unique knowledge of the Polynesian rl
a trusted leader in all our forward H
beloved and revered by all the missis
has also enjoyed the confidence
races in all the Districts under
regrets his resignation, and prays
a prolonged and restful eventide afto
successful missionary toil." The Conl
this resolution should be suitably en|
me at the ensuing New South VValeal
stage of the Conference I was appol
of Missions.

I had to remain in office until A
Connexional year, thus completing '
as General Secretary. At the Newi
of 1908 I became supernumerary, a|
Conference passed the following resi
ment of the Rev. George Brown, ]
General Secretary of the Foreign l
Conference hereby places on record
distinguished services rendered by hill
ministry, extending over forty-eight '
missionary spirit, he offered as a
the foreign field, and for nearly hal
himself to the work of God in coni

SOLOMON ISLANDS, FIJI'-EVENTIDE 535

Minionaiy Sode^. After labouring for fifteen years in Samoa,
and a short term in circuit work in Sydney, he was appdnted
in 1887 to the office of General Secretary for Foreign Missions,
the duties of which he has performed with distinguished ability
and fidelity. The new Missions to New Britain, New Guinea,
and the Solomon Islands were established by a faithful band of
missionaries led, in each case, by Dr. Brown, whose courage,
sagsicity, and fostering care contributed largely to the success
those new Missions have achieved. As General Secretary of
Foreign Missions, Dr. Brown holds a unique place in the
affections aiid esteem of our missionaries ; as a Christian man
he is widely known and universally respected and trusted by
officials and commercial men, by Governors and other high
functionaries of the Crown, as well as the less-known traders in
the Pacific ; as a member of the Australasian Association for
the Advancement of Science, and a frequent and welcome .
contributor to its discussions, he has won hearty and apprecia-
tive recognition ; and as a Methodist minister he is esteemed
as a 'brother beloved.' In 1891 the Conference conferred on
Dr. Brown the highest honour in its gift, by placing him in the
Presidential Chair, and in this position, as well as in others, he
discharged its obligations with credit to himself and honour to
the Connexion. The Conference assures Dr. Brown, who still
retains his connection with the Foreign Missionary Department
as Honorary Secretary, of its warm affection, and prays that
while released from the actual responsibility of office, he may be
spared to further enrich the literature of missionary history by
a permanent record of ' the wonderful works of God ' in the
South Pacific."

I was also presented with the illuminated address of the
General Conference, and a cheque representing an amount con-
tributed by many friends in the respective States and New
Zealand. The Home Committee in London also recorded
on their Minutes an appreciation of the work which I had «.
been privileged to do. This was highly appreciated by the
Australasian Board of Missions, aod also t^ mysdf.

Prcgrtss to tndof 1 907 of our latest Missions, ail 0/ wkki
absoluUfy hiatJuN at tht time when thty were begun
A ustralasian Board of Missions,

I ■

Churches ....
Mission^n^s . . . ,
Missionary Sisters
Native ministers and catediists
Teachers ....
Local preachere .
Church members
SundAy-Bchooi scholars
Attendants on public worship

N»W Brftain,

'55

«53

•74

J.f'9

5.506

19,594

bcgetifi \%n%

908

3,597
19,776

Sal.

Progress during two Decades ^

The fol towing figures will be interesting to many as sh<

the progress made in our mission work in twenty years. 1

werc^ —

Full members ..... 29,546

, 4o,;6a

Adherents

\
\

1SS6.
1906.

tSS6.
906.

18S6.
906.

18S6.
1906.

I ncome

Expenditure

. 110,342

. i3>,8o9 ■

•vCi 1.633^

, 25,066

. £i*i4o5
' 17,434

The contributions from native churches in 1906 we
fallows :

Chinese, ^23 7J. ; Samoa, £%^% oj. yl, ; Fiji, /"4,842 is.
New Britain, /^ 1,389 3J. ; New Guinea, /216 2i, g4.\ Sole
Islands, £4 2s. Total, ;£^7,3 32 idf. Zti.

PriHl*4 by HaatU, iVttton & Kih^, Liit, Lantien emel AvttfbHry.

BV 3672 B7 A3
Q«org» Brown, D.D.

Stanford Unlvenltv UbrariM

3 6105 041 292 132

DATE DUE 1

STANFORD UNIVERSITY LIBRARIES
STANFORD, CALIFORNIA 94305-6004

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