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VOLUME  I 

The  Georgian  Period 

[PARTS  I-IV] 


Copyright.  1898-1899.  bv  thb 
.^lMEricaN  Architect  ^jjd  Building  News  Co. 


The  Georgian  Period 


A  Collection  of  Papers  Dealing  with 

'^Colonial"  or  XVIII-Century  Architecture 

In  the  United  States 

Together  with  References  to  Earlier  Provincial  and  True  Colonial  Work 


Illustrated  with  more  than  450  Full-Page  Plates,  Half  of  which  are  Measured  Drawings,  and 

Half  Perspective  Sketches  and  Photographic  Views,  Together  with  Over 

500  Miscellaneous  Illustrations  in  the  Text. 


EDITED  BY 

WILLIAM  ROTCH  WARE 

Fellow  of  the  Boston  Society  of  Architects 


NEW  YORK 

THE  AMERICAN  ARCHITECT 
1908 


JUA 
701 


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^^^^Aii  ^ 


960040 


General  Index  of  Text  and  Illustrations, 

VOLUMES   I   AND   II 


Chronology  of  American  Buildings.' 


1632 

St.  Luke's,  Smithfield,  Va. 
1634 
Cradock  House,  Medford,  Mass. 

•635 
Garrison    House,    Newburyport, 

Mass. 
House  of  Seven  Gables,   Salem, 
Mass. 
1636 
Fairbanks  House,  Dedham,  Mass. 

1639 

Bull  House,  Newport,  R.  I.     The 

(lov. 
Curtis    House,    Jamaica     Plain, 

Mass. 


SEVENTEENTH   CENTURY. 

1 640  1 660 

Minot  House,  Dorchester,  Mass.  St.    John's    Church,    Hampton, 

Old    Stone    House,    Guilford,  Va. 

Conn.  1664 

1643  Wyckoff  House,  Flatlands  Neck, 

Pigeon   Cove,   Mass.     House   at.  L.  I. 

1650  1667 

Putnam  House,   Danvers,    Mass.  Ely  Tavern,  Springfield,  Mass. 

The  Gen.  1678 

1651  Christ      Church,      Williamsburg, 
Pickering  House,  .Salem,  Mass.  Va. 


i6. 


1680 


Livezey's    House,     Philadelphia,  Red  Horse  Inn,  Sudbury,  Mass. 

I'a.  1 68 1 

i65[?]  Old     Ship     Church,     Hingham, 

Whipple  House,  Ipswich,  Mass.  Mass. 


1683 

Philipse  Manor  House  [southern 
part],  Yonkers,  N.  Y. 
1684 

Waller  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
1 686 

Wayside  Inn,  Sudbury,  Mass. 
1696 

Dutch    Church,    Ilackensack, 
N.J. 
1700 

Court-house,  Williamsburg,  Va. 

Farmington,  Conn.  Old  House  at. 

Gloria     Dei,     01      Old      Swedes 
Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Shirley,  James  River,  Va. 


1703 
St.    Peter's    Church,    New    Kent 
Co.,  Va. 
1706 
Mabee    House,     Schenectadv, 
N.  V. 

171.1 

St.  James's  Church,  Goose  Creek, 
S.  C. 
1712 
Old  Corner    Bookstore,    Boston, 
Mass. 
"     State-house,  Boston,  Mass. 

1713 

Sam'l     Porter     House,     Hadley, 
Ma.ss. 
171S 

Bniton  Pari.sh  Church,  Williams- 
burg, Va. 

«7>7 

Waitt  Place,  Barnstable,  Mass. 
1720 

Christ  Church,  Philadelphia,    Pa. 

Pepperell  Mansion,   Kittery,   Me. 
1725 

Berkeley,  James  River,  Va. 

Rosewell,  Whitemarsh,  Va. 
1727 

Christ  Church,  Philadelphia,   I'a. 
1729 

Independence  Hall,  I'hiladelphia. 

Old  South,  Boston. 

Seventh     Day    Baptist    Church, 
Newport,  R.  I. 

•73° 

Bartram    House,  John,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa. 
Pepperell  House,  Kittery,  Me. 

1732 
Christ    Church,    I.ancaster    (  o., 
Va. 

'733 

St.   Philip's  Church,  Charleston, 

S.  C. 

•735 

Old  Swedes  Church,  Wilmington, 
Del. 


EIGHTEENTH    CENTURY. 

737  1755 

Carter's    Grove,    James    River,        Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadel- 


phia, Pa. 
Winslow  House,  Plymouth,  Mass. 

175,7 

Gunston  Hall,  Va. 
1758 

St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church,  Phila- 
delphia, Pa. 

1759 
Vassall-C  raigie-I.o  n  gf  ellow 
House. 


Va. 
Hancock  House,  Boston,  Mass. 
Westover,  James  River,  Va. 

I73« 

Royall  House,  Medford,  Mass. 
St.  Peter's  Church,   Philadelphia. 

1740 

Brice  House,  Annapolis,  Md. 
Samuel    Colton     House,     lx>ng- 

meadow,  Mass. 

Lang     House,     Jeffrey,      Salem,  1760 

Ma.ss.  Blake  House,  .Springfield,  Mass. 

Oliver  House,  Dorchester,  Mass.  1761 

Verplanck   Homestead,    Fishkill,  Christ  Church,    Cambridge, 

N.  V.  Mass. 

1742-62  Mt.   Pleasant  Mansion,  Fairmont 

Faneuil  Hall,  Boston,  Mass.  Park,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

1743  1762 

Mount  Vernon,  Va.  Morris  House,  New  York,N.  Y. 

Philipse  Manor  House,  Yonkers,  1763 

N.  Y.  Woodford   House,    Philadeli)hia, 

State-house,  Newport,  K.  I.  Pa. 

1744  1764 

Cloisters.  Ephrata,  Pa.  Ladd  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H. 

McDowell  Hall,  Annapolis,  Md.,  St.    Paul's    Chapel,    New    York, 

1745  N.  Y. 
Holden  Chapel,  Cambridge,  Mass.  1765 

Wells  House,  Cambridge,  Mass.  Van  Rensselaer  Mansion,  Albany, 

1 74V  N.   V. 

King's  Chapel,  Boston,  Mass.  1767 

1750  Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va. 

Bellingham  Cary  I  louse,  Chelsea,  1 76S 

Ma.ss.  Jeremiah     Lee     House,     Marble- 

p'irst  Church,  P'armington,  Coini.  head,  M.iss. 

Lefferts    Homestead,     Brooklyn,  1770 

N.  Y.  Carpenters'    Hall,    Philadelphia, 

Tulip  Hill,  West  River.  Md.  Pa. 

Wentworth  House,  Little  Harbor.  C:hase  House,  Annapolis,  Md. 

iyr2  Harwood  House,  Annapolis.  Md. 

Braddock      House,      Alexandria,  Quincy  Mansion,  Quincy,  Mass. 

Va.  1 77 1 

Carlvle  House,  Alexandria,  Va.  Boston  Tea-party  House. 

Custom-house,  Charleston,  S.   C.  1772 

St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  State-house,  Annapolis,  Md. 

S.  c.  Stebbins  House,  Deerfield,  Mass. 


1774 

Meeting-house,  Sandown,  N.  H. 
1780 

Forrester  House,  Salem,  Mass. 

Paca  House,  Annapolis,  Md. 
1 78 1 

Elsie  Gerretsen  House,  Brooklyn, 
N.  Y. 
1784 

Gov.     Langdon     House,     Ports- 
moutli,  N.  H. 

Solitude,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Unitarian       Church,       Roxbury, 
Ma.ss. 
17S6 

Erasmus  Hall,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 
1787 

Morris  House,  I'hiladelphia,  Pa. 
1790 

Brandon,  James  River,  Va. 

Deming  House,  Litchfield,  Conn. 

Taylor  House,  Roxbury,  Mass. 

Van    Rensselaer    Manor    House, 
Albany,  N.  Y. 
1 791 

Ixjngswamp    Reformed   Church, 
Mertztown,  Pa. 

1793 
(iadsby's     Tavern,     Alexandria, 
Va. 
1 798 
Cook    House,    Brookline,    Mass. 

Isaac. 
Hurd  House,  Charlestown,  Mass. 

I  799 

Octagon  House,  W  ash  i  n  g  t  o  n, 
D.C. 
"  "       Woodlawn,  Va. 

1800 
Jonathan  Childs  House,  Roches- 
ter, N.  Y. 
Haven    House,    Portsmouth, 

N.H. 
Hodges  Hou.se,  .Salem,  Ma.ss. 
Phillips  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
Thompson   House,   Charlestown, 
Mass. 


'  Afentioned  in  I  'olumes  I  and  II  \_Farts  I-  VIII^ 


II 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


NINETEENTH   CENTURY. 


iSoi 
Essex  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
Nichols  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
1S02 
Ellicott  Hall.  Batavia.  N.  Y. 
First  Church,  West   Springfield, 

Mass. 
Oliver  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
1S03 
New  York  City-hall. 
Sackett  House,  Sackett's  Harbor, 

N.  Y. 
St.    John's    Chapel,   New    York, 
N.  Y. 
1S04 

Judge    \Valker    House,    Lenox, 
Mass. 
1806 
Colton  House,  Agawam,  Mass. 
Rufus. 


1806 

South  Church,  Salem,  Mass. 
1 80S 

Williams  House,  Boston,  Mass. 
I  Soy 

Mappa  House,  Trenton,  N.  Y. 
1810 

Joseph     Cabot     House,     Salem, 
Mass. 
iSi  I 
Alexander    House,     Springfield, 
Mass. 
1812 
Church,  Ashfield,  Mass. 
First  Church,  Northampton, 
Mass. 
"     Congregational   Church, 
Canandaigua,  N.  Y. 
Monumental  Church,  Richmond, 
Va. 


1813 

Court-house,  Lenox,  Mass. 
1814 

Arnold      House,      Charlestown, 

Mass. 
Church,  Lenox,  Mass. 
Unitarian    Church,    Trenton, 
N.  Y. 
1815 

Old  North  Church,  New  Haven, 

Conn. 
Ontario     County     Jail,     Canan- 
daigua, N.  Y. 
1816 
Tudor     House,     Georgetown, 

D.  C. 
Woolsey    I  louse,    Sackett's 
Harbor,  N.  Y. 


1817 

University    of     Virgmia,    Char- 
lottesville, Va. 
1818 

Cadet    Armory,     Salem,    Mass. 

F'irst  Church,  Springfield.  Mass. 

Peabody  House,  Salem,  Mass. 

Safford  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
1819 

St.      Paul's     Church,     Ratcliffe- 
boro',  S.  C. 
1820 

Isaac    Hill's   House,    Rochester, 
N.  Y. 

Pickman  House,  Salem,  Mass. 
1821 

Hobart  College  Building,  Geneva, 
N.  Y. 
1826 

First  Church,  Ware,  Mass. 


Alphabetical  Chronological  Tabulation. 


Alexander      House,       Springfield, 

Mass.,  181 1. 

Arnold  House,  Charlestown,  Mass., 

1814. 
Bartram  House,  Phila.,  Pa.,  1730. 
Bellingham-Cary  House,  Chelsea, 
Mass.,  1750. 

Berkeley,  James  River,  Va.,  1725. 
Blake  House,  Sp'gfield,  Mass.,  1760. 
Boston  Tea-party  House,  1771. 

Braddock  House,  Alexandria,  Va., 

1752. 
Brandon,  James  River,  Va.,  1790. 
Brice  House,  Annapolis,  Md.,  1740. 
Bruton  Parish  Church,  Williams- 
burg, Va.,  1715. 
Bull  House,  Newport,  R.  L,  1639. 
Cabot  House,  Salem,  Ma.ss,,  1810. 
Cadet  Armory,  Salem,  Mass.,  1818. 
Carlyle    House,    Alexandria,    Va., 

1752. 
Carpenters'  Hall,  Phila.,  Pa.,  1770. 
Carter's  Grove,  Va.,  1737. 

Chase  House,  Annapolis,  Md  ,  1770. 
Childs   House,   Rochester,    N.    Y., 

1800. 

Christ  Church:  — 

Alexandria,  Va.,  1 767. 

Cambridge,  Mass.,  1761. 

Lancaster  Co.,  Va.,  1732. 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  1720. 

Ware,  Mass.,  1826. 

Williamsburg,  Va.,  1678. 

Church,  Ashfield,  Mass.,  1812. 

"        I>enox,  Mass.,  1814. 

Cloisters,  Ephrata,  Pa.,  1744. 

Colton    House,    Agawam,    Ma.ss., 

Rufus.  1806. 

Colton   House,    Ijongmeadow, 

Mass.,  1 740. 

Cook  House,  Br'kline,  Mass.,  1798. 

Court-house,  I^enox,  Mass.,      1813. 

"  Williamsburg,       Va., 

1700. 

Cradock    House,  Medford,    Ma.ss., 

Curtis  House,  Jamaica  I'lain,  Mass., 

1639. 
Custom-house,    Charleston,    S.   C, 

1752. 
Custis     House,     Woodlawn,     Va., 

1799. 
Deming  House,   Litchfield,  Conn., 

1 790. 
Dutch  Church,  Hackensack,  N.  J., 

1 696. 
Ellicott  Hall,  Batavia,  N.  Y.,  1802. 
Ely  Tavern,  Springfield,  Mass.,  1667. 


Erasmus  Hall,  Brooklyn,  1786. 

Essex  House,  Salem,  Mass.,    1801. 
Fairbanks  House,  Dedham,  Mass., 
1636. 
Faneuil  Hall,  Boston,  1742. 

First  Church:  — 

F'armington,  Conn.,  '75°. 

Northampton,  Mass.,  1812. 

Springfield,  Mass.,  1818. 

West  Springfield,  Mass.,  1802. 

First     Congregational     Church, 

Canandaigua,  N.  Y.,  181 2. 

Forrester    House,     Salem,    Mass., 

1780. 

Gadsby's   Tavern,  Alexandria,  Va., 

1793- 
Garrison  House,  Newburyport, 
Mass.,  1635. 

Gerretsen  House,  Brooklyn,  1781. 
Gloria  Dei,  or  Old  Swedes  Church, 
Philadelphia,  Pa.,  1700. 

Gunston  Hall,  Va.,  1757. 

Hancock  House,  Boston,  1737. 

Harwood   House,   Annapolis,  Md., 

1770. 
Haven  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H., 

1800. 
Hill  House,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  1820. 
Hobart    College,    Geneva,   N.    Y., 

1821. 
Hodges  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  1800. 
Holden   Chapel,  Cambridge,  Mass., 

1745- 

House    of    Seven    Gables,    Salem, 

Mass.,  1635- 

Hurd  House,   Charlestown,  Mass., 

1798. 
Independence     Hall,     Phila.,    Pa., 

1729. 
King's  Chapel,  Boston,  Mass.,  1749. 
Ladd   House,   Portsmouth,   N.  H., 

1764. 

Lang  House,  Salem,  Mass.,       1740. 

I^angdon     House,     Portsmouth, 

N.H.,  17S4. 

Lee     House,    Marblehead,    Mass., 

1768. 
Lefferts  House,  Brooklyn,  1750. 
Livezey's  House,  Phila.,  Pa.,  1652. 
Longswamp  Reformed  Church, 
Mertztown,  I'a.,  I79i. 

Mabee  House,  Schenectady,  N.  Y., 

1706. 
Mappa    House,    Trenton,    N.    Y., 

1809. 
McDowell    Hall,    Annapolis,    Md., 

1744. 


Meeting-house,    Sandown,    N.   H., 

1774- 

Minot    House,    Dorchester,  Mass., 

1640. 

Monumental    Church,    Richmond, 

Va.,  1812. 

Morris  House,  New  York,        1762. 

"  "         Phila.,  Pa.,        1787. 

Mt.    Pleasant    Mansion,    Fairmont 

Park,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,         1761. 

Mount  Vernon,  Va.,  1743. 

New  York  City-hall,  1803. 

Nichols  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  1801. 

Octagon  House,  Washington,  D.  C, 

1799. 

Old  Corner  Bookstore,  Boston,  1712. 

"     North    Church,   New    Haven, 

Conn,,  1815. 

"     Ship,  Hingham,  Mass.,     1681. 

"     South,  Boston,  Ma.ss.,       1729. 

"     State-house,  Boston,  1712. 

"     Stone  House,  Guilford,  Conn., 

1640. 

"     Swedes  Church,   Wilmington, 

Del.,  1735. 

Oliver  House,  Dorchester,    Ma.ss., 

1740. 

"  "         Salem,  Mass.,  1802. 

Ontario  County  Jail,  Canandaigua, 

N.  Y.,  1815. 

Paca  House,  Annapolis,  Md.,  1780. 

Peabody  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  t8i8. 

Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Phila.,  Pa., 

1755- 
Pepperell  House,  Kittery,  Me.,  1720. 
Philipse    Manor    House,    Yonkers, 
N.  Y.,  1683-1743. 

Phillips  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  1800. 
Pickering    House,    Salem,    Mass., 

1651. 
Pickman     House,     Salem,     Mass., 

1820. 
Porter  House,  Hadley,  Mass.,  1713. 
Putnam    House,    Danvers,    Mass., 

1650.     The  Gen. 
Quincy    Mansion,    Quincy,    Mass., 

1770. 
Rosewell,  Whitemarsh,  Va.,  1725. 
Royall     House,     Medford,     Mass., 

i73«- 

Sackett  House,   Sackett's   Harbor, 

N.  Y.,  1803. 

Safford  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  1818. 

St.    James's,  Goose    Creek,  S.  C, 

1711. 

St.  John's  Chapel,    New    York, 

N.  Y.,  1803. 

"        "        Hampton,  Va.,         i6fx). 

St.  Luke's,  Smithfield,  Va.,      1632. 

St.  Michael's  Charleston,  S.  C,  1752. 


St.  Paul's  Chapel,     New    York, 

N.  Y.,  1 764. 

"        "     Ratcliflfeboro',  S.C,  1819. 

St.    Peter's,    New    Kent    Co.,   Va., 

1703- 
Phila.,  Pa.,  1738. 

P.  E.  Church,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa.,  1758. 
St.  Philip's,  Charleston,  S.  C,  1733. 
Seventh  Day  Baptist  Church,  New- 
port, R.  I.,  1729. 
Shirley,  James  River,  Va.,        1700. 
Solitude,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,       1784. 
South  Church,  Salem,  Mass.,    1806. 
State-house,  Annapolis,  Md.,    1772. 
"            Newport,  R.  I.,     1743. 
Stebbins   House,   Deerfield,  Mass., 

1772. 
Taylor     House,     Roxbury,    Ma.ss., 
1790. 
Thompson     House,     Charlestown, 
Mass.,  1800. 

Tudor  House,  Georgetown,  D.  C, 
1816. 
Tulip  Hill,  West  River,  Md.,  1750. 
Unitarian  Church,  Roxbury,  Mass., 
1784. 
"  "         Trenton,  N.  Y., 

1814. 
University  of  Virginia,  Charlottes- 
ville, 181 7. 
Van  Rensselaer  Manor    House, 
Albany,   N.   Y., 
1790. 
"               "            Mansion,  Albany, 
N.  Y.,  ,765. 
Vassall-C  raigie-Lon  gf  el  low 
House,  Cambridge,                 1759- 
Verplanck  House,  Fishkill,  N.  Y., 
1740. 
Waitt    Place,    Barnstable,     Mass., 
1717. 
Walker  House,  Lenox,  Mass.,  1804. 
Waller  House.  Salem,  Mass.,  1684. 
Wayside  Inn,  Sudbury,  Mass.,  1686. 
Wells    House,    Cambridge,   Mass., 
1845. 
Wentivorth   House,   Little  Harbor, 
1750. 
Westover,  James   River,  Va.,  1737. 
Whipple    House,    Ipswich,    Mass., 

i6s[?]. 
Williams  House,  Boston,  1808. 

Winslow  House,  Plymouth,  Mass., 

•755- 
Woodford  House,  Phila.,  Pa.,  1763. 
Woolsey      House,      Sackett's 

Harbor,  N.  Y.,  1S16. 

Wyckoff   House,   Flatlands   Neck, 

L.  I.,  1664. 


General  Index  of  Text  and  Illustrations. 


VOLUMES  1  AND  II. 


—  A  — 

Abingdon,  Berks,  Eng  :  — 
Christ's  Hospital',  ii,  96,  98 
Doonvay,  VIII,  3 
Tomkins  Almshouse,  ii,  96,  99 
Town-hall,  VIII,  )9;  11,95 

Academy  of    Arts  founded    by    F. 
Johnston.      Royal 
Hibernian,  ii,  1 1 1 
"         Fort  Hills,  Canandaigua, 
N.  Y.,  ii,  3 
Accident  at   St.  Maryle  Strand  at 
the  Proclamation  of  Peace,  ii.  105 
Accokeek,  ii,  49 
Accomack,  ii,  13,  20 
Acton,  Annapolis,  Md.     The  Home 

of  the  Murrays,  ii.  57 
Adam.     The  Brothers,  i,  iS;  ii,  11, 
84,  89,  90,  95.  100 
"  Ceiling.     An,  i.  8 

Adams  House,  Quincy,  Ma,ss.     The 

J.  Q..  i,3;  ii,  8-! 
Advertisement.     An    old    Irish,   ii, 

1 12 
Agawam,  Mass.,  ii,  62,  66,  67 

Alb.any,  N.  V. :  — 

Van  Rensselaer  Manor  House,  i, 

1.5.    M.    15;    I- 
U 
"  "  Mansion  House, 

i,  J3 
Aldborough  House,  Dublin,  ii,  iii 
Aldrich,    Architect    of   All    Saints' 
Church,  Oxford,  Y.ng.   Dean.  ii.  94 
Aldrich's  Book,  "Elements  0/  Ar 
chiUcture"  in  Latin.     Dean,  ii,  94 

Alexandria,  Va.:  — 
Braddock  House,  i,  29 
Carlyle  House.     Mantels  in.  III, 

)8 
Cazanove.     Mantel  at.  i,  22 
Christ  Church,  II,  19,20,  21,  22 
Gadsby's  Tavern,  i,  30  ;  1,9 

Allen  and  the  Rebuilding  of  Bath, 

Eng.     Ralph,  ii.  95 
All  Saints'  Church,  5,'orthamp  t  o  n. 
Kng.,    ii,    95; 
VIII,  J5 
"        "  "        Oxford     de- 

signed   by 
Dean       Al 
drich,  ii,  (14 
Almshouse,  Abingdon,  Eng.     Tom 
kins,  ii,  96,  99 
"  Maidstone,     En  g. 

Banks,  ii,  96),  99 
"  Trinity    Ground,    Ix)n 

don,  VIII,  22 
Almshouses.  English,  ii,  96 
Altar,  Rye,  Eng.,  ii.  98 

"      Table,  Rye,  Eng.,  ii,  J  02 
Alton,  Hants,  Eng.     Porcli.  ii.  92 
"  "  "        House,  ii,  96 

Ames.     John,  Architect,  ii,  69 
Analostan,  Va.,  ii,  49 

Explanation:  —  The  first  volume  coinaiiis  Parts   I-IV,  tlie  second  Parts  V-VIII.     Tlie  volume  is  inciicated  bv  "i"  or  **  ii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated   by  bold-face 
numerals.     The  fuU-paKC  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  boldf.ice  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part 


"Ancient."     The  Van   Rensselaer, 

Andirons,  VI,  7,  25 

Andrew  House,  Salem,  Mass,  VII, 

13,25 
Andros.     Sir  Edmund,  ii,  15 

"  Gov.,  ii,  26 

Annapolis,  Md.,  i,  19 

"  on  the  Severn,  ii,  57 

Annapolis,  Md.  :  — 

Acton.       The    Home    of     the 

Murrays,  ii,  57 
Brice  House,  i,  J9;  ii.  27,  59 
Chase  House,  i,  20;  ii,  59;  ii,  58 
Franklin  House,  ii.  60 
Ilarwood    House,  i,   J  9,  20,  21; 

ii,  27,  58,  59 
Jennings  House,  i,  20;  ii,  59 
McDowell  Hall,  ii,  60 
Marx  House,  VII,  4 
Paca  House,  ii,  27;  VI,  J 
St.  Anne's  Church,  ii,  61 
St.  John's  College,  i,  23;  ii,  60 
Stair-end  in  Scott  House,  i,  22 
State-house,  i,  23;  ii,  59 
Stewart  House.     Peggy,  ii,  60 
Street  Plan,  ii,  58 
Window  in  Chase  House,  i,  21 
*'  "   Harwood  House,  i,  20 

Anne.     Queen,  ii.  42,  81 

"  Statues  of  <^)ueen,  ii,  105 

Apthorpe  House,  New  York,  N.  Y., 

i,  J4 
Architects  :  — 

Adam  Brothers,  i,  18;  ii,   11,  84, 
89,  ip,  95.  100 

Aldrich.     Dean,  ii,  94,  98 

Ames.     John,  ii,  69 

Banner.     Peter,  i,  10 

Bell,  ii,  93 

Benjamin.     Asher,  ii,  66 

Buckland,  ii,  59 

Bulfinch.     Charles,  i,  11,  19 

Campljell.     Colin,  ii,  84,  96 

Cassels,  ii,  1 10 

Chambers.     SirWm.,i,  18;  ii,  84, 
no 

Clarissault.     M.,  i,  23 

Clarke.     Joseph,  ii,  59 

Ctioley.     Tiiomas,  ii,  no 

Damon.     Capt.  Isaac,  ii.  70,  71 

Dance,  Jr.     George,  ii,  106 

Duff,  ii,  61 

Ensor,  ii,  no 

(iandon.     James,  ii,  iio 

Gibbs.     James,  i,    17,   28;   ii,  84, 
94.  105 

Hadlield.     George,  i,  19 

Hallet,  i,  19 

Hamilton.      James,  i,  18 

Harrison.      Peter,  i,  10,  32 

Huwksmoor.    Nicholas,  ii,  84,  94, 
105 

Hoban.     James,  i,  19 

Johnston.     Francis,  ii,  no,  in 

Jfiiies.      Inigo,  ii,  84,  100 

Keaisley.      Dr.  John,  i,  17,  18 

Latrobe.     Benjamin,  i,  19 


Architects  : — 

McBean,  i,  17 

McComb.     John,  i,  17 

Mangin,  i,  18 

Mason.     George  C,  i,  10 

Munday.     Richard,  i,  10 

Murray.     W.,  ii,  no,  in 

Norman.     J.,  ii,  65 

Rhoads.     Samuel  (Penn.   Hospi- 
tal) 

Smibert.     John,  i,  10 

Smith.     John,  ii,  no 

"  Robert     (Carpenters' 

Hall). 

Spratz.     William,  i,  5 

Sproule,  ii,  1 10 

Strickland.     William, 

Taylor,  ii,  84 

Thornton.     Dr.    William,    i,    19; 
ii,  48 

Towne,      Ithiel,  ii,  70 

Vanbrugi:.      Sir  J,,  ii,  84,  94,  95 

Ward.     John,  ii,  94,  95 

Wilkins,  ii,  110,  in 

Wren,  ii,  93,  94,  105,  106 

Wyatt.     Benjamin,  i,  10 

Arehiteeiural  Review,   London,   ii, 

99 
Architecture  in  Dublin.     Georgian, 
ii,  107 
"  of     England.       Eigh- 

teenth-century,     ii, 

,'■'■. 
"  Georgian  Architecture 

true,  ii,  92 
**  Arehitechtrey     W'are's,  ii,  86 
.Vrchitrave  Bases,  i,  23 
.■\rmory  of  the  Salem  Cadets,  i,  36 
Arms  of  Capt.  John  Smith,  ii,  26 

"      Royal,  ii,  96;  VIII,  17 
Arnold,  Benedict,    aided    by    Mrs. 
Byrd,  ii,  42 
"         Homestead,     Charlestown, 

Mass.     Doorway,  II,  9 
"         Mansion.    Benedict.    Phila- 
delphia,  Pa.,  IV,  30,  32, 
33,  35,  36 

Arthur's    Visit    to    Salem.      Prince, 
1,36 

Arts.     Royal   Hibernian    Academy 
of,  ii,  in 

Ashfiekl,  Mass.     Church,  ii,  68,  69 

Asylum  Building,  Somerville,  Mass. 
McLean,  ii,  84 
"       Staircase.     McLean,  ii,  85 

Atherington,  Eng.     Memorial  Tab- 
let, ii,  104 

Avery  House.   Pequonnock,  Conn., 
i,  3 
"       Peter,  i,  9 

Avon,  N.  Y.,  ii,  5 

Ayrault.     Dr.,  i,  5 

Ayrault  House,  Geneseo,  N.  Y.,  i, 
32;  ii.  6;  V,  5 

Ayrault  House.      Hood.      Newport, 
R.  I.,  i,  6 

—  B  — 

Bacon.     General,  ii,  13,  25 


Bacon's  Rebellion,  ii,  26,  49 
Bailey  Prison,  London,  Eng.     Old, 

ii,  J  06 
Ball-room.    Count  Rumford's,  ii,  77 
Ball-rooms,  i,  30;  ii,  3,  77 
Baltimore.     Lord,  ii,  49 

"  Home  of  the  Calverts, 

VI,  28,  29,  30,  3  J 
Baltimore,  Md.  :  — 

Fan-lights,  II,  39,  40 

Homewood  Stable,  i,  22 

Mantels,  VI,  )3,  J4 

Sidelights,  II,  41 

Baluster  Sun-dial,  ii,  9) 

Balusters.     Twisted,  i,   15,  20,  27; 

11,28,47,52;  ii,  86 
Balustrades,  i,  7 

"  Roof,  i,  6,  12 

Bank   of   Ireland,   Dublin,   ii,   no, 

\n 

Banks  Almshouse,  Maidstone,  Eng., 

ii,  96,  99 
Banner.     Peter.     Architect,  i,  10 
"  Barber's  Historical  Colleetions^^  ii, 

68 
Barneveld.     John  of,  ii,  10 

"  N.  Y.     Olden,  ii,  10 

Barns.     Washington's,  ii,  47 
Barnstable,  Mass.     Mantel  in  Waitt 

Place,  III,  19 
Bartram  House,    Philadelphia,    Pa. 
The  John,  i,  15;   IV,  9 
"  John.     Botanist,  ii,  46 

"         William.     Botanist,  ii,  46 
Bastile.     Key  of  the,  i,  31 

Batavia,  N.  Y.  :  — 
(^ary  House,  ii,  4 

"  "       Door,  i,  33 

Ellicott  Hall,  ii,  4 
Office  of  the  Holland  Purchase, 
i,33 

Batchelder  House,   Cambridge, 

Mass.,  ii,  82 
Bath,  Eng.     Prior  Park,  ii,  95 

"         "        rebuilt  by  John  \Vood, 

ii.  95 

Battle  between  "  Chesapeake  "  and 

"  Slia/tfiorij"  i,  34 

"        of  Long  Island,  i,  12 

"         "    Lundy's  Lane,  ii,  4 

"        "   Sackett's  Harbor,  ii,  7 

Battle  Sussex,  Eng.     House  at,  ii, 

100 
Bay-window,  Guildford,  Eng  ,  ii,  J 00 
Rye,  Eng.,  ii,  97,  99 
"  St.  Cross,  Winchester. 

Eng.,  ii,  100 
Beall  Air,  Va.,  ii,  56 
Bedford    Tower,     Dublin     Castle, 

VIII,  46 
Bedposts,  i,  3  J 
Beech  Timber.     Red,  ii,    1 1 
Bell,  Architect,  ii,  93 
Belle  Air.     Home  of  the  Fitzhughs, 

ii,  50 
Bellingham-Caiy     House,    Chelsea, 
Ma.ss„  II,  49;  50,  51,52 


IV 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Belvoir,  Va.     Burning  of,  ii,  45 

'•        Seat  of  the  Fairfaxes, 
ii,  44,  52 
Benham,  Berks,  Eng..  VIII.  II 
Benjamin's  "  Country  Builders'  As- 
sistant."    Asher,  ii,  65.  86;   VII, 
32 
Berkeley.     Governor,  ii,  13 
"  Sir  W.,  ii,  20,  21 

"  Statue     of     Norbonne, 

Williamsburg,  Va.,  ii, 
18 
Berkeley.  Va.,  ii,  27,  39 
Bermuda  Hundred,  Va.  ii.  32 

Netiier  Hundred,  ii,  31 
Berry  Hill,  Va.,  ii,  50 
Bertram     House    for     Aged    Men, 

S.ilem,  Mass..  VII.  3  J 
Bicknell  House  Mantels,  Rochester, 

,X.  v.,  II.  5 
Bifield,    Mass.      Dummer    House, 

VII,  30 

Big  Tree  Inn.     Geneseo,  N.  Y.,  ii,  6 
Billings   House,  Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii, 
II 
"         John,  ii,  10 
Bjork.     Pastor,  ii,  12 
Blackford  House  Mantels,  Fairfax 

Co.,  Va..  i.  JO 
Bladen's  Folly,  ii,  60.  61 
Blair.     Rev.  James,  ii,  15.  19 

"         Tombs,  Jamestown,  Va.,  ii, 
21 
Blair's  Quarrel  with  Sir  E.  Andros, 

ii,  15 
Blanchard.       Joshua.      Builder    of 

the  Old    South   Church,  Boston, 

Blandfield.     Home  of  the  Beverlys, 

ii,  50 
Blandford,   Eng.,   rebuilt   in     1740. 

Town  of,  ii,  98 
Blenheim,  ii,  94 
Blessing.     The  Roman  Catholic,  ii, 

lOI 

Blomfield's  Book  on  English  Ren- 
aissance, ii,  93 
Blue-coat   School,  Dublin,   ii,    112; 

VIII,  44 
Blue-laws,  ii,  77 

Blue  Limestone.    Hard  Irish,  ii,  in 
Bombardment  of   Norfolk,  Va.,  ii, 

42 
Book  on  Architecture.      Dean    Al- 
drich's.     Latin,  ii,  94 

"       "    Furniture.    Chippendale's, 
ii,  86 

"       "    Renaissance   in    England. 
Blomfield's,  ii,  93 
Books  on  Architecture.     Early,  ii, 

66,  86 
Bookstore,    Boston.     Old    Corner, 

ii,  82 
Boone.     Garrett,  ii,  10 
Boscobel,  Va.,  ii,  50 
Bossi's  Inlaid   Mantels.     Value  of, 

ii,  III 

BosTo.N,  Mass.  :  — 

Bulfinch  State-house.     The,  i,  11 
Christ  Church,  i,  10;  ii,  8 J,  83 
Faneuil  Hall,  11,31,32,33 
Hancock  House,  i,  3;  ii,  82 
King's  Chapel,  i,  10;  ii,  83 
"  "        Details,  i,  16,  17 

Pulpit,  i,  9;  1,15, 
18,  19 
C  d  Corner  Bookstore,  ii,  82 
"     North  Church,  ii,  81,  83 
*      South  Church,  i,  10,  26,27; 

IV,  14,  15 

•'     State-house, i,  10,  JJ;  11,46, 
47;  ii,  72.  83 
Park  .Street  Church,  i,  9,  10 
Paul  Revere  House,  i,  4 
Province  House,  ii,  86 
Puljlic  Library.     (Jld,  i,  7 
Tea-party  House,  i,  5 
Ticknor  House,  ii,  86 
West  Church,  ii,86;   VII,  26,28 
Williams    House.   II.  )  I,  12,  13, 
14,  15,  16,  17 


I  Botetourt.     Death  of  Lord,  ii,  19 
Bowdoin     House     Door,     Salem, 

Mass.,  VII,  22 
Bowling-green,   Williamsburg,  Va., 

ii,  13 
Box-stair.     The,  ii,  79 
Box-stairs,  Salem,  Mass.,  ii,  78 
Brackets,  II,  13,  49 
Braddock   House,  Alexandria,  Va., 

i,  29;  HI,  18 
Bradley,  Va.,  ii,  52 
Bradstreet  House,  Andover,  Mass.. 

'•4 

Brandon,  James  River,  Va.,  i,  19 

Lower,  ii,  27,  28 
Braxton.     Carter,  ii,  29 
Brays.     Tomb   of    the.     Williams- 
burg, Va.,  ii,  15 
Brentford,  Eng.     House    Porch,   ii, 
102 
"  Sussex,    Eng.,  Doorway, 

ii,  loi 
Brentwood,  Middlesex,  Eng.  House 

at,  ii,  96 
Brice  House,  Annapolis,  Md.,  i,  19  ; 

ii,  27,  59 
Brick  brought  as  Ballast,  i,  20 ;  ii,  76 
■'  Brick  Church,"  New  York,  N.  Y., 

i.  17 
Brick  in  the  South.     Common  Use 

of,  ii,  76 
"  Brick,"    Sackett's   Harbor,  N.   Y. 

Entrance  to  the,  ii,  8 
Brickmaking  at  Jamestown,  Va.,  ii, 

30 
"  "  Trenton,  N.   Y.,  ii, 

10 
Brickyards,  Dublin,  ii,  no 

"  Medford,  i,  2  ;  ii,  77 

Bridge  at  Chester,  Eng.,  ii,  98 

"        "  Dublin.     The  Carlisle,  ii, 

1 10 
"        "  Newbury,    Eng.,    ii,    98 ; 
VIII,  25 
Bridger.     Hon.  Joseph,  ii,  24 
Bridges  designed  by  Capt.  I.  Damon, 

ii,  71 
Brighton,  N.  Y.  :  — 

Culver  House,  ii,  3 :  V,  8 
Porch,  I,  J 
Porch  of  Smith  House,  ii,  J 
Brookline,  Mass.  :  — 

Door  in  Isaac  Cook  House,  II, 
23:  — 

Mantel  in  Same,  II,  J 8 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  :  — 
Erasmus  Hall,  i,  16  :  — 

Mantel  in  Same,  IV,  7 
Elsie  Gerretsen  House,  i,  12 
I^fferts  Homestead,  i,  12  :  — 
Doorway,  IV,  4 
Brooks    House    Staircase,    Salem, 

Mass.,  VII,  6 
Brothers  Adam.     The,  i,  18;  ii,  11, 

84,  89,  90,  95,  100 
Brown.     Gen.  Jacob,  ii,  7 

"  J.  Appleton,  ii,  73 

Bruton  Parish  Church,  Williams- 
burg, Va.,  ii,  14, 
15 

"  "         Churchyard,  ii,  43 

"  "        Somerset,  England, 

ii,  14 
Buckingham.     George     V  i  1 1  i  e  r  s, 
Duke  of,  ii,  89 
"  Street,      London, 

Doorway  in,  ii,  87 
Buckland,  Architect,  ii,  59 
Bulfinch.      Charles.      Architect,    i, 
II,  19;  ii,  79 
"  Front,     Boston.       The 

Colonnade  of  the,  ii, 

79 
Bull  House,  Newport,  R.  I.      The 
Gov.,  i,  2 
"     Inn,  Guildford,  Eng.,  ii,  100 
Bull's    Head    Tavern,    New    York, 
•  N.  Y.,  i,  19 

Burford,  Eng.     Iron  Entrance-gate, 
VIII,  29 


Burlington,  N.   J.     Friends'    Meet- 
ing-house, i,  9 
Burnaby.     Archdeacon   ii,  15 
Burr.     Aaron,  i,  14 ;  ii,  i 
Burwell.     Carter,  ii,  26,  30,  34 
"  Lewis,  ii,  35 

"  Col.  Nathaniel,  ii,  22 

"  Rebecca,  ii,  17 

Bushfield.     House  of  J.  A.  Wash- 
ington, ii,  50 
Byrd.     Elizabeth.     The    beautiful, 
ii,  18 
"         Lieut.    Thomas.       Capture 

of,  ii,  5 
"         and     Lord      Peterboro'. 

Evelyn,  ii,  41 
"         Manuscript.     The,  ii,  41 
"         of   Westover.     Col.,  ii,   20, 
28,  40 

-c- 

Cabot  House,  Salem,  Mass.  Joseph, 

VII,  7,  8,  9 
Cadet  Armory,  Salem,  Mass.,  i,  36 
Calf  dropped  down  Chimney,  ii,  75 
Calvert.     Leonard,  ii,  58 
Cambridge,  Eng,     Senate  House,  ii, 

94 
"  Mass.,  i,  2 

Cambridge,  Mass.:  — 
Batchelder  House,  ii,  82 
Christ  Church,  ii,  82 
Elmwood,  i,  5 

Hemenway  Gymnasium,  ii,  84 
Holden  Chapel,  ii,  82,  84 
Holmes  House,  ii,  84 
Ma.ssachusetts  Hall,  ii,  82 
Riedesel  House,  ii,  82 
Tories'  Row,  ii,  81 
Vassall  -  Craigie  -Longfellow 

House,  i,  4,  6,  12;  ii,  82 
Wadsworth  House,  ii,  82 
Wells  House,  ii,  82 

Camm.     Rev.  Mr.,  ii,  30 
Camp.     Col  Elisha,  ii.  9 
W.  B.,  ii,  8 
"  House,    or   "  The    Brick," 

Sackett's  Harbor,  N.  Y., 
ii,  9;  V,  JO 
Campbell,  Architect.     Colin,  ii,  84, 

96 
Canandaigua,  N.  Y.  :  — 
Congregational  Church,  ii,  6 
Doorway,  i,  16 

"         of  the  Greig  House,  III, 
28,29 
First  Cong.  Church,  V,  J 
Fort  Hills  Academy,  ii,  3 
Granger  Place  Seminary,  ii,  3 
Grey  Mansion,  ii,  3 
House,  V,  7 
Candelabrum  at  Horsmonden,  Eng., 
ii,  101 
"  "  Northiam,  Eng.,  ii, 

101 
Capitals,  II,  J,  J4,  20 ;  HI.  5,  15, 
17;  IV,  5,  12;  ii,  67;  V,  2,  16, 
21;  VI,  7;  VII,  18;  VIII,  4,  16 
Capitol,  Richmond,  Va.,  i,  23 

"         Washington,    D.    C.     The 
U.  .S.,  i,  19;  ii.  48 
Card-playing  Clergymen,  ii,  15 
Carlisle  Bridge,  Dublin,  ii,  no 

"        Park     Pier      Termination, 
Hastings,    Eng.,    ii,    96 ; 
VIII.  J7 
Carlyle  House  Mantels,  Alexandria, 
Va.,  Ill,  J8 
"       John,  i,  30 
Caroline,  Queen,  and  Stratford 

House,  Va.,  ii,  21 
Carpenters'  Classic,  ii,  2 

Hall,  Philadelphia,   Pa., 
111,31,32 
Carrolls.     The,  ii,  5 
Carter.     John,  ii,  24 

King,  ii,  24,  34,  39 
"  Robert,  ii,  24 

"  Houses,  ii,  43 


Carter's  Grove,  James    River,  Va., 

i,  19.  21,22;  ii,  26,  34 

"         Hall,  Frederick   Co.,    Va., 

ii.  35 
"  "      James   River,  Va.,  i, 

"  "      Millwood,  Va,,  ii,  34 

Cartouche    at    So.    Molton,    Eng., 

VIII,  17 
Carvings  by  Gibbons,    Timbs   and 
others,  ii,  89 
"         Heraldic,  ii,  96;  VIII,  17 
Cary  House,  Batavia,  N.  Y.,  I,  33 ; 

ii,  4 
Casino  at  Clontarf,  Ireland,  ii,  112; 

VIII,  42 
Cast-iron  Grapes,  ii,  63 
Castle.     Bedford    Tower,     Dublin, 
VIII,  46 
"  Chapel,  Dublin.     The,    ii, 

III 
"  Howard,  Eng,,  ii,  94 

Caterpillars.     Silk,  ii,  14 
Cathcart.     Mr.,  i,  28 
Cathedral,  Ireland.   Tower  Armagh, 

ii,  TIC 
Catholic  Blessing.     The  Roman,  ii, 

lOI 

Cazanove,  Alexandria,  Va.     Mantel 

in,  i,  22 
Ceiling  Decorations,  ii.  41.  ni 
Ceilings,  i,  8,  21 ;   II,  29,  ii,  41  ;  VI, 

11,31;  VII,  9 

Cellars,  ii,  52 

Chair.     Washington's  Lodge,  i,  30 

Chambers.     Sir  Wm.,  i,  18;  ii,  84, 

1 10 
Champlin    House,   Newport.     The 

Christopher  G.,  i,  32 
Chancel    of    Old    Swedes    Church, 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  ii,  J2 
Chandeliers,  ii,  98 
Chantilly,  Va.,  ii,  50 
Chapel.     Cunningham,    or    "  Old," 
Clarke  Co.,  Va.,  ii,  22 
"  Dublin  Castle,  ii,  in 

"  Holden,    Cambridge, 

Ma.ss.,  ii,  82,  84 
"  King's,  Boston,  Mass.,  i, 

9,  10,  16,    17;   I,    15, 
18,  19;  ii,  83 
"  St.   Paul's,   New   York,  i, 

16;  IV,  JO,  J  J,  12,  13 
Character  of  English  Houses,  ii,  93 
Charles  the  First,  ii,  14 

"         "    .Second,  ii,  14 
Charlemont,  Mass.     Church  at,   ii, 

71 
"  House,  Dublin,  ii,  iii 

Charleston,  S.  C:  — 
Custom-house,  i.  23 
St.  Michael's  Church,  i,  23 
St.  Philip's  Church,  i,  23 

Charlestown,  Mass.:  — 
Arnold  House  Doorway,  II,  9 
Hurd  House  Porch,  i,  7 
Thompson  House  Mantel,  II,  7,  8 

Charlestown,  W.  Va.,  ii,  56 

Charlottesville,  Va.     University  of 
Virginia,  i,  23,  24 

Chase.     Chief  Justice,  ii,  59 
"  Judge  Samuel,  ii,  58 

"  House,  Annapolis.  Md.,  i, 

20,  21,22,23;  ii.  5S,  59 

Chatham.     Home  of  the  Fitzhughs, 

ii.  50 
Chelsea,  Eng.     Door-heads  in 
Cheyne  Row,  ii,  87,  90 
"        Mass.      Bellingham  -  Cary 
House,  II,  49,  50,  51, 
52 
Cherry  Tavern,  ii,  54 
Cherry-tree     Avenue    at    Gunston 

Hall,  ii,  51 
Cheshire,  Eng.     Oulton  Hall,  ii,  97 
Chester,  Eng.     Bridge  at,  ii,  98 
Chew  House,  Germantown,  Pa.,  VI, 

J 
Cheyne  Row,  Chelsea,  Eng.     Door- 
heads  in  ii,  87,  90 


Explanation;— The  first  volume  contains  Parts  I-IV,  the  second  Parts  V-VIII.    The  volume  is  indicated  by  "i"  or  "  ii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
numerals.    The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  immcral  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


GENERAL   INDEX  OF  TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Chichester,  Eng.    Council-chamber, 
ii,  96;  VIII,  J 9 
"  "      Doorway,  VIII,  3 

Child.     Lydia  Maria,  ii,  73 
Childs  House  Cornice,    Rochester, 
N.   Y.     Jonathan, 
II,  J 
"  "        Rochester,     N.      Y. 

Side  Porch,  II,  6 
Chimney.     Powhatan's,  ii,  26 
Chimneypiece,  See  "  Mantelpiece  " 
Chippendale's  Book  on    Furniture, 
ii,  86 
"  Shop,  London,  ii,  104 

Chippewa.     Battle  of,  ii,  4 
Chotauk  Region.     The,  ii,  50 
Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va.,  II, 
J9,  20,  2J,22 
"  "        Boston,  Mass.,  i,  10; 

ii,  81,  83 
"  "        Cambridge,     Mass., 

ii,  82 
"  "        Lancaster  Co.,  Va., 

ii,  20,  24 
"  "        Newgate,      London, 

ii,  106;  VIII,  37 
"  "        Philadelphia,  Pa.,  i, 

17.  18;  11,42,43, 
44,  45;  IV,  3J! 
ii,  12 
"  "        Shrewsbury,  N.  J.,  i, 

10 
"  "        Spitalfields,  London, 

ii,  94,   105 ;  VIII, 
39,40 
"  "        Williamsburg,  Va.,  i, 

24 
"       Hospital,    Abingdon,    Eng., 
ii,  96.  98 
Chronological  Table,  i,  9  [See  also 

table  preceding  this  Index.] 
Church  designed  by  Isaac  Damon, 
ii.  7J 
"  "        "   Wren's  Daugh- 

ter, ii,  104 
"        Steeple,  New  Haven,  Conn. 

First,  II,  JO 
"  "        Roxbury,     Mass. 

First    Unitarian, 
i,  10 
Churches,  i,  9 

"  London,  City,  ii,  98 

"  Removal  of  Galleries   in, 

ii,  105 
"  Southern,  i,  23 

"  Triad    of    Georgian. 

London,  ii,  104 

Churches:  — 

All  Saints',  Northampton,  Eng., 

ii,  95;  VIII,  J5 
"         "         Oxford,  Eng.,  :i,  94 
Ashfield,  Ma.ss.,  ii,  68 
Bruton  Parish,  Williamsburg,  Va., 

ii,  14.  J  5 
Christ,   Alexandria,    Va.,  II,   J  9, 
20,21,22 
"        Boston,  Ma.ss.,  i,   10 ;    ii, 

81,83 
"        Cambridge,      Ma.ss.,      ii, 

82 

"        Lancaster  Co.,  Va.,  ii,  20, 

24 
"        Newgate,  London,  ii,  106 ; 

VIII,  37 
"        Philadelphia,    Pa.,   i,    17, 
i8;II,  42,  43,44,  45; 
IV,  31;  ii.  12 
"        Shrew.sbury,  N.  J.,  i,  10 
"        Spitalfields,    loindon,    ii, 
94,  105;  VIII,  39,  40 
"        Williamsburg,  Va.,  i,  24 
Dutch,  Ilackensack,  N.  J.,  i,  17 
First,  ii,  70 

"      Deerfield,  Ma.ss.,  ii,  68 
"      Farmington,  Conn.,  ii,  68 
"      Hingham,  Mass.,  IV,  (7 
"      Northampton,  Mass.,  ii,  69, 

70 
"      Springfield,  Mass.,  ii,  69 
"      West  Springfield,  Ma.ss.,  ii, 
68 


Churches  : — ■ 

First  Congregational,      C  a  n  a  n  - 
daigua,  N.  Y.,  V,  J 
"     Meeting-house,  i,  35 
Greyfriars,  London,  ii,  106 
Hatfield,  Mass.,  ii,  68 
Holden,  Chapel,  Cambridge, 

Mass.,  ii,  82,  84 
King's  Chapel,  Boston,  i,  9,   10, 

16,  17;  I,  15,  18,  J9;  ii,  83 
Lenox,  Mass.,  ii,  70 
Little  Stanmore,  Eng.,  ii,  95 
Longswamp     Reformed,    Mertz- 

town.  Pa.,  i,  18 
Methodist    Episcopal,    Waterloo, 

N.  Y.,  i.,  17 
Monumental,  Richmond,  Va.,  Ill, 

IJ 
Narragansett,  R.  I.,  i,  9 
North  Runcton,  Eng.,  ii,  93 
"  Old  North,"  Boston    Mass.,    ii, 
81,83 
"         "         New     Haven, 
Conn.,  II,  JO 
"Old  Ship,"  Hingham,  Mass.,  i, 

9;  ii,  83 
"  Old  South,"  Boston,  Mass.,  i,  10, 

26,27;  IV,  14,  J5 
"  Old  Swedes,"  Philadelphia,  i,  18 ; 

ii,  12;  V,  J  J,  J2 

Park  Street,  Boston,  Mass.,  i,  10 

Pohick,  Va.,  ii,  25,  44,  48,  50 

St.  Anne's,  Annapolis,  ii,  61 

"  George's,  Dubhn,  ii,  1 1 1 

"  James's,   Goose  Creek,  S.  C, 

i,  24;  111,6 
"         "         Piccadilly,     London, 

i,  10,  32  ;  ii,  105 
"  John's,  Hampton,  Va.,  i,  24 
"        "       Chapel,     New     York, 
N.  Y.,  i,  17;  IV,  J6 
"  Luke's,     Smithfield,    Isle    of 

Wight  Co.,  Va.,  ii,  20,  23 
"  Martin's -in -the -Fields,  Lon- 
don, i,  10,  17;  ii,  86,  94 
"  Mary -le-Strand,  London,  Eng., 
ii,94,  104;  VIII,  32, 33, 34 
"  Mary's     Woolnoth,     London, 

ii,  94 
"  Michael's,  Charleston,  S.    C, 

i,  23 
"  Paul's  Chapel,     New     York, 
N.  Y.,i,  16;  IV,  JO, 

II,  12,  13 

"        "       Norfolk,  Va.,  ii,  42 

Ratcliffeboro',    S.    C, 

III,  11 

"  Peter's,  New  Kent  Co.,   Va., 

ii,25 
"        "        Philadelphia,    Pa.,    i, 

17;  ii,  12;  V,  3,  6 
"  Philip's,  Charleston,  S.  C,  i, 

23 

Seventh  Day  Baptist,  Newport, 
R.  I.,  i,  31 

South,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII,  33 

Swedes,  "  Old  Stone,"  Wilming- 
ton, Del.,  I,  17 

Trinity,  Newport,  R.  I.,  i,  32 

Unitarian,  Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii,  10, 
1 1 

Ware,  Gloucester  Co.,  Va.,  ii,  22 
"       Mass.,  ii,  71 

West,  Boston,  Mass.,  ii,  86;  VII, 
26,28 

Zion,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  i,  17 

Churchyard  Gate,  WiUiamsburg, 
Va.,  ii,  14 
Tomb.s,  VIII,  31,35 
Cincinnati.     Society  of  the,  i,  25 
Circular  Roads,  Dublin,  ii,  108 
City  hall,  Dublin,  VIII,  48 
"  Newport,  R.  I.,  i,  II 

New  York,  N.  Y.,  i,    17, 
18;!!,  30,34,  35,36, 
37,48 
"  Yonkers,  N.  Y.,  i,  14 

City  Hotel,  Alexandria,  Va.,  i,  31 : 

1,9 
City  Island,  N.  Y.     The    Leviness 
House,  ii,  77 


Claggett.     William,  i,  33 

Claggett's  Tavern,  Alexandria,  i,  31 

Clapboards,  i,  7 

"  Moulded,  ii,  64 

Clarissault.     M.,  Architect  of  Rich- 
mond State-house,  i,  23 

Clarke.     Attainder  of  Robert,  ii,  6i 
"  Joseph,  Architect,  ii,  59 

Clarkson,  N.  Y.     Doorway,  ii,  78 

Classical  Design.     Books  on,  ii,  86 

Clay  Plastering,  ii,  74 

Claymont  Court :    House  of  Bush- 
rod  Washington,  ii,  55 :  VI,  37 

Clement's      Inn,      London.       The 
Garden  House,  VIII,  30 

Clergy  addicted  to  Drink,  ii,  25,  60 

Clergymen  paid  with  Tobacco,  ii,  30 

Clinton.     Gov.  De  Witt,  ii,  10 

Clock    in     Seventh     Day    Baptist 
Church,  Newport,  i,  32 

Cloisters,  Ephrata,  Pa.,  IV,  J  8 

Clontarf,  Ireland.     Casino,  ii,  112; 
VIII,  42 

Cluny  Museum  in  a  New  England 
Village.     A,  ii,  72 

Coaching-inns.     English,  ii,  96 

Cockfighting,  ii,  25 

Coleman.     Samuel,  ii.  66 

College  of    Matrons    in     Salisbury 
Close,  ii,  96;  VIII,  23 
"        St.  John's,  Annapolis,  Md., 

i,  23 
"        of  Surgeons,  Dublin,  ii,  1 1 1 ; 

VIII,  44 
"        Trinity,     Dublin,    ii,      in; 

VIII,  48 
"        WiUiam  and  Mary,  ii,  19 
Collins  House,  Newburyport,  Mass. 
The,  ii,  72 

Colonial  Architecture:  — 
In  Virginia  and  Maryland,  ii,  13 
"  Western  Massachusetts,  ii,  61 
F.  E.  Wallis's  Book  on,  ii,  3 
Colonial  Dames,  ii,  72 
Color,  i,  7 

Colton  House,  Agawam,  Mass.,  ii, 
66,67 
"  "        Longmeadow, 

Mass.        Samuel, 
ii,  62,  63 
Columnar  Doorways,  ii,  loi 
Commission.    Dublin's  Wide-street, 

ii,  io8 
Communal  System,  ii,  31 
Communion  Plate  of  Bruton  Parish, 

ii,  16 
Concord,  Mass.     The    Old   Manse, 

i,3 
Congregational  Church,    Canan- 
daigua,  N.  Y.,  ii,  6 
*'  Meeting-ho  use. 

First,  i,  35 
Contract   for    altering    the    Witch 
House,  Salem,  i,  35 
"  "     Charlemont   Church, 

Mass.,  ii,  71 
Convent,  Ephrata,  Pa.,  i,  15;    IV, 

18 
Cook  House.     Isaac,  Brookline, 
Mass.      Door   in, 
H,  23 
*'  "  Brookline,     Mass. 

Mantel,  II,  J 8 
Coolidge.     J.  R.,  ii,  33 
Corey.     Giles,  i,  33 

"  Martha,  i,  34 

Cork  Hill,  Dublin.     View  on,  VIII, 

46 
Corner   Bookstore,    Boston,    Mass. 

Old,  ii,  82 
Cornice :    Jonathan    Childs  House, 

Rochester,  N.  Y.,  II,  J 
Cornices,  i,  6:  II,    J,  J7;  III,  J5; 

ii,  9,  10;  VI,  23,  29,  30,31 
Cornwallis.     Surrender  of,  ii,  19 
Corotoman.     King  Carter  of,  ii,  34 
Corwin.     Jonathan,  i,  35 
Cottage.     The   Goodman.     Lenox, 

Ma.ss.,  ii,  83,  86 
Council-chamber,  Chichester,  Eng., 
ii,  96;   VIII,  J9 


Court-house  Doorway,   G  e  n  e  s  e  o, 
N.  Y.,  V,  7 
"  Dublin,  ii,  J  JO 

"  Hanover,  Va.,  ii,  30 

Court-house,  Lenox,  Mass.,  ii,   70, 

71 
"  Williamsburg,  Va.,  i, 

22,23;  ii,  13,  14 
Cradock.     Gov.,  ii,  72 

"  House,  Medford,  Mass., 

i,  2,  3;  ii,  72,81 
Craigie  House,  Cambridge,    Mass., 

i,  4,  6,  12 ;  ii,  82 
Cranbrook,  Eng.     Royal  Arms  at,  ii, 
96;  VIII,  J7 
"  "         School-house,   ii, 

95 
Crowninshield  Brothers  accused  of 

Murder,  i,  36 
Crow's  Nest,  Va.,  ii,  50 
Culver  House,  Brighton,  N.  Y.,  ii, 
3;  V,  8 
"  "         Porch,  Brighton, 

N.  Y.,  i,  J 
Cummington,  Mass.,  ii,  71 
Cunningham    Chapel,    Clarke    Co., 

Va.,  ii,  22 
Cupboard  in  Jaffrey  House,  Ports- 
mouth, N.  H.,  i,  8 
Cupolas,  II,  33  ;  IV,  34  •  ii,  98 
"        Pennsylvania   Hospital, 
Philadelphia,  Pa.,  IV,  34 
"       The  Ubiquitous  New  Eng- 
land, ii,  77 
Curtis  House,  Jamaica  Plain,  Mass., 

ii,  82,  83 
Custis.     John  Parke,  ii,  44,  45 
"  Mrs.  Martha,  ii,  25,  44 

"  Nellie,  ii,  45,  47 

Custis's    House,    "  Woodlawn." 
Nellie,  ii,  27,48;  VI,  20,  22,23, 
24,  25,  26 
Custom-house,  Charleston,  S.  C,  i, 
23 
"  Door,     Portsmouth, 

N.  H.,  i,  12 
"  Dubhn,  ii,  J07,  108 

"  King's   Lynn,  Eng., 

ii-  93 
"  Salem,  Mass.,  i,  10, 

11,34 
"  Yorktown,  Va.  First 

of  its  kind,  ii,  19 

—  D  — 

Dale.     Sir  Thomas,  ii,  31,  38,  39 

Dale's  Gift,  ii,  31 

Damon.    C apt.  Isaac.    Architect,  ii, 

70,  71 
Dance,  Architect.     George.     Jr.,  ii, 

106 

Danvers,  Mass.  :  — 

Balustrade   from    King    Plooper 

House,  i,  7 
General  Putnam  House,  i,  4 
"King"  Hooper  House,  i,  4 
Maria  Goodhue  House,  VII,  29 

Danvensport  Mantels,  VII,  21 
Daughter.       Church    designed    by 

Wren's,  ii,  104 
Davie,  Photographer.     Galsworthy, 

ii,  96 
Deal  Door\vay.     An  Old,  VIII,  4  ■ 
Decastro  House,  Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii, 
II 
"  Madam,  ii,  10 

Deck-roofs,  ii,  77 
Dedham,  Mass.     Fairbanks  House, 

I,  25,  26  ;  ii,  82,  83 
Deerfield,  Mass.,  ii,  62 

"  "      Doors  of  Stebbins 

House,  ii,  64 
"  "      First   Church,    ii, 

68 
"  "      Opposes  the  Trol- 

ley, ii,  (iTf 
"         N.  Y.,  ii,  10 
De  La  Warre.     Lord,  ii,  23,  25,  38 
Deming  House,  Litchfield,  Conn., 
i,  5 


Explanation: —The  first  volume  contains  Pans  I-IV,  the  second  Parts  V-VIII.     The  volume   is   indicated   by  "i"  or  "ii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
numerals.    The  tull-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


VI 


THE   GEORGIAX  PERIOD. 


Deptford,  Exg.  :  — 

Home  of  Grinling  Gibbons,  ii,  87 
Rich  in  Door-heads,  ii,  87 
Trinitv    Almshouse    Gate-house, 
VIII,  24 

Derby  House.  Salem,  Mass.,  VII,  7 
Design.     Books  on,  ii,  86 
Desk.  I.  3» 

Devonshire  Sq.,  London.     A  Stair- 
case in,  VIII.  26 
Dexter.     Timothy,  Lord,  ii,  78 
Dictum  concerning   Doors.     Palla- 

dio's,  ii,  99 
Digges.     Edward,  ii,  14 
Dogs.     Washington's,  ii,  47 
Dogue's  Neck  famous  for  Game,  ii. 

Dome,  i,  23 

Domestic  Architecture  of  the  Middle 
Provinces,  i,  i  r 

Door-heads  :  — 

Cheyne    Row,  Chelsea,  Eng.,  ii, 

87,89 
Deptford.  Eng.,  ii,  87 
Exeter,  Eng.,  VIII,  8,  JO 
Greenbush,  L.  I.,  i,  >2 
Hastings,  Eng.,  ii,  93 
London.     Georgian,  in,  ii,  87 
New  York,  N.  Y.,  i,  J  2 
Nichols  ^nPierce  House,  Salem, 

Mass.,  i,  8 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  i,  6 
Salem,  Mass.,  i,  8 
Tulip   Hill,  West   River,  Md.,  i, 

20 

Westminster,  London,  ii,  90 
Whitehall,  Md.,  i,  22 

Doors  XV,  33,  35 ;  V,  2,  5,  7,  9, 
JO,  J2,  J7,  J8;  VI,  JO, 
34;  VII,  J2,  J4,  J9,  22 

"       Palladio's    Dictum    concern- 
ing, ii,  99 
Doorway,  ii,  62,  76,  78 
Doorways.     Columnar,  ii,  loi 
"  Entablature,  ii,  loi 

"  Humanity  of,  ii,  99 

Doorways  :  — 

Abingdon,  Eng.,  VIII,  3 
Arnold       House,      Charlestown, 

Mass.,  11,9 
Bellingham-Cary  House,  Chelsea, 

Mass.,  II,  52 
Brentford,  Eng.,  loi,  J02 
Buckingham  St.,  Ixindon,  ii,  87 
Camp  Mansion,  Sackett's  Harbor, 

N.  v.,  V,  10 
Canandaigua,  N.  Y.,  i,  J6 
Carpenters'-hall,        Philadelphia, 

Pa.,  Ill,  32 
Gary  House,  Batavia,  N.  Y.,  I,  33 
Chiche.ster,  Eng.,  VIII,  3 
Churchill    House,    Wethersfield, 

Conn.,  ii,  63 
Deal.     An  old,  VIII,  4 
Isaac   Cook    House,    Brookline, 

Mass.,  II,  23 
Custom-house,    Portsmouth, 

N.  H.,  I,  J2 
Fairfax    House,    Putney,    Eng., 

VIII.  6 
Great    Ormond    St.,    London,  ii, 

89 
Greig  House,  Canandaigua,  N.  Y., 

111,28,29 
Griffith  House,  Rochester,  N.  Y., 

ii,  2 
Grosvenor  Road,  I/indon,  ii,  9J 
Guildford,  Eng.,  VIII,  3 
Ha.'.ard  House,  Newport,  R.  I.,  I, 

23 
Isaac    Hills    House,     Rochester, 

N.  Y.,  11,3 
Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia, 

Pa..  IV,  2J 
Lefferts  House,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y., 

IV,  4 
Liberty  St.,  Pittsburgh,  I'a.,  Ill, 

JO 


DOORW.WS  :  — 

Mappa    House,    Trenton,  N.   Y.. 

V,  16,  17,  J8 
Meeting-house,  Sandown,  N.  H., 

1,8 
Morris  House,  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

111.22 

New  York  City-hall,  II,  48 

Old  North  Church,  New  Haven, 
Conn.,  II.  JO 

Pennsvlvania  Hospital,  Philadel- 
phia', Pa.,  Ill,  5 

Providence,  R.  I.,  i,  7;  ii.  79 

Queen  Anne's  Gate,  Westmin- 
ster, Eng.,  ii,  89 

Queen's  Sq..  London,  ii,  90 

Royall  House,  Medford,  Mass., 
1,5,6 

Sackett's  Harbor,  N.  Y.,  Ill,  26 

Shirley  Parlor,  VI,  32 

Stebbins  House,  Deerfield,  Mass., 

ii,  64 
Thompson  House,   Charlestown, 

Mass.,  11,7 
Wandsworth  Manor  House,  Eng., 

vni,  J8 

West  Wycombe,  Eng.,  ii,  92 
Wilhams  House,  Boston,  Mass., 

II,  J3 

Winslow  House,  Plymouth, 
Mass.,  VIII,  2 

Dorchester,     Mass.      The     Oliver 

House,  i,  5 
Dormer  on  Count  Rumford's  House, 
Woburn,  Mass.,  i,  7 
"       Typical  New  York,   i,   J2, 

13 
Dormers,  i,  7 

"         Newcastle,  Eng.,  i,  J  2 
Douglas  House,  Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii, 

II 
Dove-cote,  Shirley,  Va.,  i,  21  ;  ii,  36 
Dow,  Painter.     Arthur  W.,  ii,  73 
Drinking  Clergymen,  ii,  25,  60 

"         Habits,  ii,  15,  25 
Drunkards,  i,  1 5 
Drunkenness,  ii,  60 

Dublin,  Ireland:  — 

Aldborough  House,  ii,  1 1 1 
Bank  of  Ireland,  ii,  no,  111 
Bedford   Tower,    Dublin    Castle, 

VIII,  46 
Blue-coat  School,  ii,   112;  VIII, 

44 
Brickfields,  ii,  no 
Carlisle  Bridge,  ii,  1 10 
Castle  Chapel,  ii,  in 
Ceiling    decorated    by    Italians. 

Plaster,  ii,  in 
Charlemont  House,  ii,  in 
Circular  Roads.     The,  ii,  108 
City-hall,  VIII,  48 
College  of  Surgeons,  ii,  in;  VII, 

44 
Cork  Hill.     View  on,  VIII,  46 
Custom-house,  ii,  J07,  loS 
Four  Courts.     The,  ii,  1  JO 
Georgian  Architecture  in,  ii,  107 
Hospital.     The  Rotunda,  ii,  109; 

VIII, 42 
Hospitals,  ii,  109 
Houses.     Early  Georgian,  ii,  J08, 

J09 
King's  Inn,  ii,  J09,  no,  in 
Leicester  House,  ii,  1 10 
Lord  Essex's  House,  ii,  112 
Nelson  Monument.     The,  ii,  1 1 1 
Newgate  Prison,  ii,  no 
Old  Parliament  House,  ii,  JJ  J 
Population  of,  ii,  107 
Portland-stone  Dressings,  ii,  in 
Post-office.     The  General,  ii,  in 
Quays,  ii,  108 
Register  Office,  ii,  in 
Royal  Exchange,  ii,  1 10 

"       Hibernian     Academy     of 
Art,  ii.  III 
St.  George's  Church,  ii,  in 
Statue  of  Grattan,  ii,  in 
Trinity  College,  ii,  1 11  ;  VIII,  48 


Dublin,  Ireland:  — 
Tvrone  House,  ii,  no 
Weavers'  Hall,  ii,  J09 
Wide  Streets  Commission.     The, 
ii,  loS 

Duelling  Parson.     A,  ii,  41 
Duff,  a  Scotch  Architect,  ii,  61 
Dug-outs,  ii,  74 
Duke     of     Buckingham.       George 

Villiers,  ii,  89 
Dumb-waiter  Fireplace,  i,  23 
Dummer  House,  Bifield,  Mass.,  VII, 

30 

Dunmore.     Lord,  ii,  19,  29 

"  Attempts     to    capture 

Mount  Vernon,  ii,  45 

"  Bombards    Norfolk, 

Va.     Lord,  ii,  24 

Dunmore's    House,    Williamsburg, 

Va.     Lord,  ii,  18 
Dutch  Character  of  English  Houses, 

ii,  93 
"      Church,  Hackensack,  N.  J., 

i>  17 
"      Cottage,  New  York,  N.  \ ., 

i,  J4 
"      Gap,  ii,  32 
"       House,  Long  Island,  N.  Y., 

i,  J2 

"       Influence    in    the     Genesee 

Valley,  ii,  2 
"      Scenic  Wall-paper,  i,  8 
"       Tiles,  i,  22 
Dwight  House,  Springfield,    Mass. 
Josiah,  I,  2J 

-E- 

Eagle  Tavern,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  ii, 

3 

Early  Georgian  Houses,  Dublin,  ii, 

J08 

Eastern  Shore,  Md.,  ii,  58 
Easthampton,  L.  I.     J.  H.  Payne's 

House,  i,  3 
East  India  Trade  of  Salem,  ii,  77 
Eastlake's    ''History  of  the    Gothic 

Revival"  ii,  86 
Eighteenth-century  Architecture   in 
England,     ii, 
16,  91 
"  Bridge,  New- 

bury, Eng.,  ii, 
98 
"  English    Street. 

The,  ii,  98 
"  Gardens,  ii,  98 

"  Elements  of  Architecture"     Dean 

Aldrich's,  ii,  94 
Eliot  Sq.  Church,  Roxbury,  Mass., 

i,  JO 
Ellicott  Hall,  Batavia,  N.  Y.,  ii,  4 

"        Joseph,  ii,  4 
Elmwood,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  i,  5 
Elsing  Green,  Va.,  ii,  29 
Ely  Tavern,  Springfield,  Mass.,   ii, 

62 
Emerton  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII, 

J6 
Endicott  House  Door.     Gov.,  VII, 

22 
England.     Blomfield's  Book  on  the 

Renaissance  in,  ii,  93 
Englisii  Inn  Galleries,  ii,  80 

"        Houses.     Dutch  Character 

of,  ii,  93 
"        Metalwork,  ii,  98 
Entablature  Doorways,  ii,  loi 
Entrance-gate.  Iron.  Burford,  Eng., 
VIII,  29 
"  "       Evesham, 

Eng.,  VIII, 
29 
"  "      St.  Giles,  Ox- 

ford, VIII, 
27 
"  "       Salisbury 

Close,VIII, 
27 
Entrance  Screen,  Syon  House,  Eng., 
ii,95;  VIII,  J5 


Ephrata,  Pa.     Convent  at,  i,  1 5 
"  "       Saal    and    Saron,   i, 

J6;  IV,  J8 

Erasmus   Hall,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  i, 
J6 
"  "      Mantel,  IV,  7 

Essex  House  Mantel,  Salem,  Mass., 

in,  J3 

"      Institute,  Salem,  i,  36;  IV,  3 

Essex's  House,  Dublin.  Lord,  ii, 
112 

Everett.     Edward,  i,  5 

Evesham,  Eng.  Iron  Entrance- 
gate,  VIII,  29 

Exchange,  Dublin.  The  Royal,  ii, 
no 

Exeter,  Eng.,  Door-heads,  VIII,  8, 

JO 

Extinguishers.     Link,  ii,  87 


-P- 

Fairbanks  House,  Dedham,  Mass., 

1.25,26;  ii,  82,  83 
Fairfax.     Anne,  wife  of  L.  Wash- 
ington, ii,  44 
"  Co.,     Va.      Mantels     in 

Blackford  House,  i,  JO 
"  House,    Putney,    Eng. 

Doorway  of,  VIII,  6 
Fairfax's  Friendship  for  Washing- 
ton.    Lord,  ii,  44 
Fairford,  Eng.    Churchyard  Tombs, 

VIII,  35 
Falling  Creek,  Va.,  ii,  32 
Faneuil  Hall,  Boston,  Mass.,  II,  3  J, 
32,33 
"        Peter,  i,  27 
Fan-lights,  i,  13;  II,  3,39,40;  HI, 
5,  7,  28,  29;  IV,  8;  u,  2;  VI, 
24 
Farmington,  Charlottesville,  Va.,  i, 

23 

Farmington,  Conn.:  — 

First  Church,  ii,  68 
Old  House  at,  i,  4 

Federals  attempt  to  burn  "  Lower 

Brandon,"  ii,  28 
Fence  Posts,  Westover,  Va.,  i,  2J 
Festoons,  i,  8 

Field-book.     Washington's,  ii,  55 
Fireplace.     See  "  Mantelpiece." 

"  Facings.    Perforated,  ii, 

66 
First      Church.      See     "Church," 

"  Meeting-house." 
Fishkill,  N.  Y.     Verplanck  House, 

i,  12,  25 
Fitzhugh  House,  "Hampton,"  Gen- 
eseo,  N.  Y.,  ii,  6 
"         William,  ii,  6 
Fitzhughs.     The,  ii,  5 
Flatlands    Neck,    L.    I.      WyckofE 

House,  i,  16 
Flat  Roof,  i,  2 1 
Flemish  Bond,  i,  20 
Floors.     Puncheon,  i,  20 
Folger  House,  Geneva,  N.  Y.,  ii,  3 ; 

III,  9 
Font,  IV,  J  J 

"      in  Old  Swedes  Church,  Phila- 
delphia, Pa.,  ii,  13 
"      The  Pocahontas,  ii,  16 
Foot-stoves,  ii,  71 
Forrester  House,   Salem,  Mass.,  I, 

J3;  VII,  J5 
Fort  Hills  Academy,  Canandaigua, 
N.  v.,  ii,  3 
"    Mabee    House,    Schenectady, 

N.  Y.,  once  a,  ii,  9 
"     Patience,  Va.,  ii,  32 
"    Schuyler,  N.  Y.,  ii,  10 
Four  Courts,  Dublin.     The,  ii,  J  JO 
"  Fowey  "    Man  -  of  -  war    threatens 

York  town,  ii,  19 
Fox-hunting  in  the  Genesee  Valley, 

ii,  6 
Frame  of  Farmington  Church,  ii,  68 
Franklin  House,  Annapolis,  ii,  60 


Explanation: — The  first  volume  contains  Parts  I-IV,  the  second  Parts  V-VIII.    The  volume  is  indicated  by  "i"  or  "  ii."    All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
numerals.    The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


FREDF.RrCKSBURG,    Va  : 

Mary  Washington  House,  ii,  20 
"  Sunrise    Tavern  "    Interiors,   ii, 
46 

Freeman  House,  Norfolk,  Va.,  VI 

French  Rococo  Ornament,  i,  8 
Friends'  Meeting-house,  BurUngton. 

N.  J.,  i,  9 
Frieze.     A  Turkey-decorated,  ii,  8 1; ; 

VIII,  2 
Friezes,  II,  J  J,  J2,  J7;  III,  17 
Furniture  brought   over   in    the 
"  Mayflower,"  ii,  84 
"         Chippendale's    Book   on, 

ii,  86 
"         at  Salem,  Mass.,  i,  36 

I.  26,  30,  31;   III,  25, 
26;  IV,  3,  IV,  J  J 


-G- 

Gable  Roof.     The,  ii,  82 

Gables.     Stepped,  i,  12 

Gadsby's  Tavern,  Alexandria,  Va., 

i.  30  ■•  1.9 
Gage  House.     Porch  of  the  Gen., 

111,27 
Galleries.     English  Inn,  ii,  80 

"  Removal  of  Church,  ii, 

105 
Gallows  Hill,  Salem,  Mass.,  i,  33 
Gambling,  ii,  15 
Gambrel  Roof.     The,  i,  4,   12,  21  ; 

ii,  64,  82 
Garden  at  Mount  Vernon,  ii,  46 
"        "  Shirley,  ii.  36 
"        of    the     Woolsey     House, 
Sackett's  Harbor,  N.   Y., 
ii,  9 
Garden-house,  Clement's  Inn,  Lon- 
don, VIII,  30 
"  Rye,  Eng.,  ii,  97,  99 

Gardens.  Eighteenth-century,  ii,  98 
Garrison  House,  Medford,  Mass.,  ii, 
7 


GENERAL   INDEX  OF   TEXT  AND   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


va 


Georgian  Architecture  in  Dublin,  ii, 

107 
"  true      Archi- 

tecture, ii, 
92 
"         London      Churches.        A 

Triad  of,  ii,  104 
"         Door-heads  in  London,  ii, 

87 
"         Houses   built   on    the 
Streets.      Eng- 
lish, ii,  97 
"  "         in  Dublin.    Early, 

ii,  108 
"  "  New  England, 

ii,  Si  . 
"        Tombs.     English,  ii,  98 
Germanna.     Country  Seat  of  Gov. 
Spotswood,  ii,  20 

Germantowx,  Pa.  : 

Chew  House,  VI,  J 
Colonial  House,  i,  14 
Upsal  House,  VI,  ),  2,3 
Wister  House  Mantel,  VI,  8 

Gerretsen  House,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y 

Elsie,  i,  J  2 
Ghost  of  Chancellor  ^Vythe,  ii,  18 

"  Elizabeth  Byrd,  ii,  i8 
Gibbons.     Grinling,  ii,  8i,  89 

"  "         House  at  Dept- 

ford,  Eng,,  ii, 

87 
"  Timbs  and   other  Carv- 

ers, ii,  89 
Gibbs.     James,  Architect,  i,  17,  28; 

ii,  84,  89,  105 
Gla.ss  Parlor,  Baltimore  House,  VI, 

3J 
"Gloria    Dei,"   or    Old    Swedes 
Church,   Philadelphia,  Pa.,  i,  18; 
ii,  12;  V,  J  J,  J2 
Golden  Horseshoe.     Knights  of  the, 

ii,  20,  49 
Good.     Sarah,  i,  33 
Goodhue    House,    Danvers,   Mass. 
Maria,  VII,  29 


Greig  House    Doorway,    C  a  n  a  n  - 
daigua,  N.  Y.,  Ill,  28,  29 
"      Mansion,  Canandaigua,  N.  Y., 

ii.  3 
Greville's  Expedition.     Sir  R.,  ii,  42 
Greyfriars'  Church,  London,  ii,    106 
Griffith  House  Doorway,  Rochester, 
N.  Y.,  ii,  2 
"       Inn,  Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii,  ii 
Groombridge      Place,     near     Tun- 
bridge-Wells,    Eng.      Portico,   ii, 
103 
Grosvenor  Road,    London.     Door- 
way in,  ii,  9  J 
Grove.     Carter's,  ii,  26 
Guildford,    Conn.      "  Old    Stone 

House,"  i,  I,  2 
Guildford,  Eng.  Bay-window,  ii,  fOO 
"  "      Bull  Inn,  ii,  JOO 

"       Doorway,  VIII,  3 
"      Guildhall,  VIII,  20 
"  "       House  at,  ii,  94 

Guildhall,  Guildford,  Eng.,  VIII,  20 
Guiteau  House,  Trenton,  N.   Y.,  ii, 

II 
Gunston  Hall  in  England,  ii,  49 
"  "     Va.     Home  of  Geo. 

Mason,  ii,   44,   49, 
50 
"  "     Niche,  i,  23 

"     Parlor  Door,  VI,  36 
"  "     Staircase,  ii,  54 

Gustavus  Adolphus,  ii,  12 
Guthrie.     Dr.  Samuel,  ii,  7 
Gymnasium,    Cambridge,    Mass 
Hemenway,  ii,  84 


-H- 


Hackensack,  N.  J.,  i,  13 

"  "      Dutch   Church, 

i.  17 
Hadfield.    George.     Architect,  i,  19 
Hadley,    Mass.     Porter    House  at, 
I,  21,22;  ii,  62,  64 


fj~    ,  '  Goodman    Cottage,    Lenox,   Mass.,    Hailsham,  Eng.     Vicarage,  VIII,  7 

JNewburyport,         ii,  8^,  86  i  Hall    House    «al„straHp     MpHfnrH 


Mass.,  i,  2 :  ii,  72 
Gate  •  house,    Trinity     Almshouse, 

Deptford,  Eng.,  VIII,  24 
Gate-piers,    Hampstead     Marshall, 

Eng.,  VIII,  9 
Gate-posts,  ii,  80:  IV,  2;  VII,  12 

Gates  :  — 

Burford,  Eng.,  VIII,  29 
Evesham,  Eng.,  VIII,  29 
Salisbury  Close,  Eng.,  VIII,  27 
St.  Giles,  Oxford,  Eng.,  VIII,  27 
Temple,  London,  ii,  J03 
Westover,  Va.,  i,  21  ;  ii   40 

Gates,  N.  Y.     Mantels,  II,  38 
Gateway    to    Syon    House,    Eng., 

VIII,  J5 
Genesee,  N.  Y.,  ii,  2 

"         Valley  Colonial  Work,  ii, 

I 
"  "       Hunt,  ii,  2 

"  "       settled     by    Mary- 

landers,  ii,  2 
Geneseo,  N.  Y.,  ii,  5 

Geneseo,  N.  Y.  :  — 

Ayrault    House,    I,    32;    ii,    6; 

V,  5 
Big  Tree  Inn,  ii,  6 
Court-house  Door,  V,  7 
"  Hampton,"  the  Fitzhugh  House, 

ii,  6 
Wadsworth  House,  i,  15;  V,  5 

Geneva,  N.  Y.  :  — 
Block  of  Houses,  ii,  3 
Folger  House,  III,  9;  ii.  3 
Hobart  College,  N.  Y.,  ii,  3 
Tillman  Block,  ii,  3;  V,  9 

George  II,  ii,  21 

III,  ii,  16 
Georgetown,  D.  C.     Tudor  House 
III,  24 


ii,  83.  86 
Goose  Creek,    S.    C.     St.    James's 

Church,  i,  24;  111,6 
Gosliun,  Conn.      Norton  House,  II, 

53,  54,  55,  56 
"  Gothic  Kcvival.     History  of  the." 

P^astlake's,  ii,  86 
Grace  Church,  New  York,  N.  V.,  ii, 

4 
Granary  Burying-ground,  Boston,  i, 

28 
Granby,  Ma.ss.,  ii,  71 
Granger    Place    Seminary,    Canan- 
daigua, N.  Y.,  ii,  3 
Granite.     Irish,  ii,  1 11 
Grant.     Gen.  U.  S.,  ii,  7 

"  The    MJTiisters',    Lenox, 

Ma,ss.,  ii,  83 
Grattan's  Statue,  Dut)lin,  ii,  11 1 
Gravestones,  Witney,   Eng.,    VIII, 

31 

Gray.     Miss  Alice  A.,  ii,  75 
Great  College    St.,    Westminster. 
Door-head  in,  ii,  90 
"       Ormond  St..  London.      Door- 
way in,  ii.  89 
Wigsell,    Eng.      Mantel    at, 
VIII,  5 
Greece,  N.  Y.     Doorway  on  Ridge 

Road,  V,  )5 
Greek  Beginnings,  ii,  67 

"       Revival.     The,  i,  8,   13,   18; 
ii,  2,  86 


Greenbush,  L.  I.     Van   Rensselaer 
Manor  House, 
i,  13 
"  "         Van    Rensselaer 

House    Door- 
head,  i,  )2 
Greenfield,  Mass.     Hollister  House, 
ii,  66 
"  "  .Staircase,  ii,  65 

Green  Spring.  Va.,  ii,  2  i  ;   ii,  25 
i  Greenway  C(nirt,  ii,  44 


Hall   House    Balustrade,   Medford, 

Mass,  I,  7 
Hallet,  Architect,  i,  19;  ii,  48 
Halls,  i,  21 

Hamilton.     Andrew.     Architect,    i, 
18 
"  Hall,  Salem,  Mass,  IV, 

8 
"  James.     Architect,  i,  18 

"  Mansion     near     Phila- 

delphia. Details  from 
i,  14.  17 
Hammond,  William,  ii,  59 
Hampstead    Marshall,    Eng.     Gate 

Piers,  VIII,  9 
Hampton  Court,  Eng.    River  Front, 
ii,  97;  VIII,  )2 
"  Va.      St.    John's    Church, 

i,  24 
"  Hampton,"  the  Fitzhugh   House, 

Geneseo,  N.  Y.,  ii,  6 
Hancock  House,  Boston,  Mass,  i,  3  ; 
ii,  82 
"  John,  i,  4 

*'  Thomas,  i,  4 

Handel  at  Little  Stanmore  Church, 

ii.  95 
Hanover,  Va.,  Court-house,  ii,  30 
Hard  Brick  Hill,  Ipswich,  Mass.,  ii, 

73 
Harewood,    Samuel    Washington's 

House,  ii,  55,  56 
Hargous   House  Mantel,  Pittsford, 

N.  Y.,  I,  32 
Harley  St.     The  Prudery  of,  ii,  100 
Harrison.     Benjamin,  ii,  40 
"  Mrs.  George,  ii,  28 

*'  Gov.  John,  ii,  40 

"  Peter.     Architect,  i,  10, 

3^ 
Harrisons  of  Berkeley.     The,  ii,  40 
Harvard  College,  ii,  19 
Ilarwood   House,   Annapolis,    Md., 
i,  19,20,  21,59;  ii,  27,58 


Hastings,  Eng.     Door-head,  ii,  93 
"  "         Pier  Termination, 

11,96;  VIII,  J7 

Hatfield,  Eng.,  ii,  83 

"         Mass.      First    Church,  ii, 
68 

Haven  House  Mantel,  Portsmouth, 
N.  H.,  VII,  23 

Hawksmoor,    Architect.     Nicholas, 
ii,  84,  94,  105 

Hawthorne.     Nathaniel,  i,  34 

Hay  for  Hair  in  Plaster,  ii,  74 

Hazard    House,     Newport,    R.    I. 
Details  of,  i,  23,  24 

Heartbreak  Hill,  Ipswich,  Mass,  ii, 
73 

Hemenway    Gymnasium,   Cam- 
bridge, Mass.,  ii,  84 

Henrico,  Va.,  ii,  31 

Henry.     Patrick,  ii,  17,  20,  29,  30 

Heraldic  Carvings,  ii,  96;  VIII,  J7 

Hibernian  Academy  of  Art.     John- 
ston founds  the  Royal,  ii,  1 1 1 

High  Wycombe,  Eng.     Town -hall, 
ii,         98 ; 

vin,  21 

"  "  "        M  a  n  t  e  1- 

piece,    ii, 

93 

Hill.     Col.  Edward,  ii,  38 

Hills  House,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  II, 

2,3,4 
Ilingham,  Mass.     The  "  Old  Ship  " 

Church,  i,  9:  IV,  J7;  ii,  S3 
Hipped  Roofs,  i,  4  ;  ii,  66,  77 
Historical  Society,  Ipswich,  ii,  73 
"  "        Medford,  ii,  72 

"  "        Newport,  i,  31 

"  History  of  the   Gothic    Revival." 

Eastlake's,  ii,  86 
Hoban.     James.     Architect,  i,  19 
Hobart  College  Building,  Geneva, 

N.  Y.,  ii,  3 
Hodges  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  i,  8 ; 

VII,  10,  II 
Holden  Chapel,  Cambridge,  Mass., 

ii,  82,  84 
Holland  Company,  ii,  5 
"        House,  Eng.,  ii,  83 
"        Land  Co.,  ii,  4,  10 
"         Purchase    Office,    Batavia, 
N.Y.,  I,  33 
HoUin  Hall,  Fairfax   County,  Va., 

ii.  52 
Hollister  House,  Greenfield,  Mass., 

ii.  64,  66 
Holmes  House,  Cambridge,  Mass., 

ii,  84 
Homes  of  the  Washington  Family, 

ii.  54 
Homewood  Stable,  Baltimore,  Md., 

i,  22 
Hood,    Ayrault    House,    Newport, 
R.  I.,  i,  6 
The  Shell,  ii,  87;  ii,   100 ; 

VIII,  6,  8,  10 
Tulip    Hill,    West     River, 
Md.,  i,  20 
"         Van  Rensselaer  Door-,  i,  J2 
Hooper  House.      Danvers,     Mass. 
The  "  King"  i,  4,  7 
"King,"i,  7 
Hope's  Book.     Thomas,  ii,  86 
Horse-racing,  ii,  15 
Horseshoe.     The   Knights   of   the, 

Golden,  ii,  20,  49 
Horsmonden,   Eng.     Candelabrum, 

ii,  101 
Hospital,  Abingdon,  Eng.,  ii,  96,  98 
"  Dublin.     The     Rotunda, 

ii,  109;  VIII,  42 
"  Philadelphia,   I'a.     Penn- 

svlvania,  III,  1,2,3,4, 
5',8;.IV,34;ii,7?,  80 
Hospitals.     Dublin,  ii,  109 
Hotel  Cluny  of    a    New    England 
Village,  ii,  72 
"  "       Paris,  ii,  73 

Houdon's  Visit  to  Mount  Vernon. 

ii.  47 
House-breaker's  Yard.     The,  ii,  87 
House  of  Burgesses.    Virginia,  ii,  14 


ExPLA.SATION :  — The  first  volume  contains    Parts    l-IV,  the  second  Pans  V-Vlll.     The  volume  is  indicated  by  "i"_or  "ii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
Dumeralft.    The  full-page  piateii  ar.*  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


THE    a  HO  KG  I  AX  PERIOD. 


House,  Dublin.  The  o\d  railianiem, 
ii,  I IJ 
Grounds,     Mount     Vernon. 

VI.  35 

••       Hadley,  Mass  .  I,  2 1 

Old  Stone.     Riclimond,  Va., 
III.  6 
"       of     Seven    Gables,     Salem, 

Ma-ss.,  i,  9 
"       Tyrone,  ii,  no 
Houses  of     New     England.      The 
Georgian,  ii.  Si 
"        on     the      Street.       English 
Georgian,  ii,  97 
Howard.     Castle,  ii,  94 
Hubbard.     Samuel.     Diaryof,  i,  31 
Hulion     House    Staircase,    Salem. 

Mass..  VII,  5,  6 
Hudson,  i   12 
Huguenot  Refugees,  ii,  14 
Humanity  of    Doorways.     The,   ii, 

99 
Hunt.     Genesee  Valley,  ii,  6 

Robert,  ii,  22 
Hurd    House,   Charlestown,    Mass. 

Porch,  i,  7 
Hutchinson.     Governor,  ii,  62 

-I- 

Independence    Hall,    Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  i,  >8;  IV,  21,  22,  23,  24, 
25,  26,  27,  29 
Indian.     See  "  Ma-ssacre  " 
Indians,  i,  i 

"        Torture  of  Lieut.  Thomas 
Boyd  by,  ii,  5 
Inlaid  Mantelpieces.    Bossi's,  ii,  1 1 1 
Inn  Galleries.     English,  ii,  80 

Inns:  — 

Big  Tree,  Geneseo,  N.  Y.,  ii,  6 

Bull.     Guildford,  Eng.,  ii,  J  00 

Griffith's,  Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii,  1 1 

King's,  Dublin,  ii,  J09 

See  "  Tavern  " 

Wayside.     Sudbury,  Mass.,  i,  2  ; 

ii.  82 
White  Hart,  Sali-sbury,  Eng.,   ii, 
96 

Inns.     English  Coaching,  ii,  96 
Ipswich  Historical  Society,  ii,  73 
"        Ma.ss.     Whipple  House,  ii, 
73,74 
Ireland.     Bank  of,  Dublin,  ii,   no, 

ni 

Irish  Granite,  ii,  in 

"      Ironwork,  ii,  in 

"     Limestone,  ii.  in 
Iron  Foundries.     The  earliest,  ii,  20 

"     Gates.    English,  ii,  103;  VIII, 

27,29 

"     Newel-posts,  Varick  St.,  New 
York,  N.  Y  ,  IV,  J 
Ironwork.     Irish,  ii,  in 
Isle  of  Hogges,  Va.,  ii,  22 

"     "   Wight,  Va.,  ii,  23 
Italian  Artisans  in  Dublin.     Work 
of,  ii,  I II 
"       Rococo  Ornament,  i,  8 

-J- 

Jacka-sses    given    by    Lafayette   to 

Wa.shington,  ii,  47 
Jaffrey    House    Cupboard,    Ports- 
mouth, N.  IL,  i,  8 
Jail,  Canandaigua,  N.  Y.     Ontario 

County,  V,  4 
Jamaica  House,  Bermondsey,  ii,  80 
"         Plain,      Mass.       Curtis 
House,  ii,  82,  83 
James  I,  ii,  32 

"       River,  Va.     Carter's       Hall, 

i,  2J 
"  "         "       Map  of   the,  ii, 

>3 
"  '*         "        Pigef)n-h  o  u  s  e, 

i,  2J 
Jamestown,  Va.,  i,  19;  ii,  13,  20 
*'  (,!hurch-tower,  ii,  20 


Jefferson.     Thomas,  i,  23;  ii.  5.  17. 

-^'  j3-  34 
Jennings    House,   Annapolis,    Md., 

i.  20;   ii,  59 
Jemison,  "  The  White   Woman   of 

the  Genesse."     Mary,  ii,  I 
Jesuit  ^iissionaries,  ii,  i 
Johnston,  Architect.    Francis,  ii,  i  n 
"         founds  the  Royal  Hibern- 
ian Academy  of  Art,  ii, 
1 1 1 
Jones.    Inigo.    Architect,  ii.  S4,  100 
Uulse  Walker  I  louse  I'orch,  Lenox, 

>iass.,  VI II,  1 
Jumel  Mansion,  New  York,  N.  Y., 
i,  14 

-K- 

Kearsley.      Dr.    John.      Architect, 

i,  17,  18 
Kenmore,  Va.,  ii,  56 
Kennedy  House,  Annapolis,  ii,  59 
Kennel.     Washington's,  ii,  47 
Key  of  the  Bastile,  i,  3  J 
King  Carter,  ii,  24,  34,  39 
King's  Chapel,  Boston,  i,  10 ;  ii,  83 
"  "  "        Details,     I, 

J6,  17 
Pulpit,  i,  9;  I,  J5, 
18,  J9 
College,  New   York,  N.   Y., 
i,  iS 
"       Inn,  Dublin,  ii,  109,  1 10 
Lynn,  Eng.,  ii,  93 
Kiquatan,  ii,  31 

Kittery,  Me.     The  Pepperell  Man- 
sion, i,  4 ;  ii,  82 
Kneller.     Portraits  by  Sir  Godfrey, 

ii,  38,  41 
Knights  of  the  Golden  Horseshoe, 

ii,  20,  49 
Knockers,  II,  52 

—  L,— 

Ladd  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  ii, 
82,  84 
"  "       Staircase,  Portsmouth, 

N.  H.,  VII,  24 
Lafayette,  ii,  i,  45 
Lake   House.     An    English,   VIII, 

13 

Lancaster     County,     Va.        Christ 

Church,  ii,  24 
Lane.     Capt.  Ralph,  ii,  42 
Lang,  Jeffrey,  House,  Salem,  Mass., 

VII,  31 
Langdon  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H. 

Newel-post.     Governor,   i,  8 ;   ii, 

82 
Langdon's  House  Balustrade,  Ports- 
mouth, N.  H.     Governor,  i,  7 
Langley's     Architectural      Book. 

Batty,  i,  5,  28 ;  ii,  86 
Lantern  on  Christ's  Ho.spital,  Ab- 
ingdon, Eng.,  ii,  96,  98 
Larcom.     Lucy,  ii,  73 
Latin  Book  on  Architecture.     Dean 

Aldrich's,  ii,  94 
Latrobe.       Benjamin.       Architect, 

i,  19 
Layout  of  English  Suburban  Towns. 

The,  ii,  97 
Lee  Gen.  R.  E.,  ii,  21 
"    Hall.     Home  of   Richard  Lee, 
ii,  50 

"    House,  Marblehead,   Mass.,   ii, 
82 

"         "        Staircase,   Marblehead, 
Mass.,  1,  27 

"    Thomas,  ii,  21 
Lefferts  Homestead,    Brooklyn, 
N.  v.,  i,  J  2 
'.'        House  Doorway,  IV,  4 
Leicester  House,  Dublin,  ii,  iio 
L'Enfant.     Maj.  Pierre,  i,  17;  ii,  60 
Lenox,  Mass.     Church,  ii,  70 

"  "         Court-house,  ii,  70, 

71 
"  "         Goodman     Cottage, 

ii,  83,  86 


Lenox,  Mass.     Judge    Walker 
House    Porch, 
ii,  83;  VIII,  J 
"  "         Ministers'    Grant. 

The,  ii,  83 

Le  Roy.     Herman,  ii,  5 

"       "        House,    Le  Roy,  N.  Y., 

">  4,  5 
Leviness  House,  City  Island,  N.  Y., 

ii,  77 
Lewes,  Eng.     Offices  on  High   St., 
",  94,  97 
"         Shop-front  at,  ii,  100 
Lewis,  Lawrence,  Husband  of  Nellie 

Custis,  ii,  47,  49 
Lewisham,  Eng.     Vicarage  at,  ii,  94 
Library,  Boston,  Ma,ss.     Old  Public, 
i,  7 
"        Oxford,  Eng.,  Radcliffe,  ii, 

94.  98 
Limestone.     Hard  Irish  Blue,  ii,  n  i 
Lincoln    preserves    "  I^ower    Bran- 
don."    President,  ii,  28 
Link -extinguisher,  ii,  87 
Litchfield,  Conn.     The     Deming 
House,  i,  5 
"  "  Porch,  i,  6 

"  "  Stair-rail,  i,  8 

Little  Harbor,  N.  IL     Wentworth 
House,  ii,  82,  86 
"       Mantel  in  Office  of  Arthur, 

I,  14 
"       Stanmore,  Eng.     Chuich  at, 

".  95 
Livezey's  House,  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

i,  15 

Livingston  Park  Seminary,  Roches- 
ter, N.  Y.,  ii,  3 

Lloyd.     Governor,  ii,  59 

Log-houses,  i,  i,  12 

London  Company.     The,  ii,  31 

London :  — 

Chippendale's    Shop.      Door   of, 

ii,  104 
Christ  Church,  Newgate,  ii,  io6; 
VIII,  37 

"  "        Spitalfields,  ii,  94, 

105;  VIII,  39, 
40 
City  Churches,  ii,  98 
Door-heads,  ii,  87 
Doorways,  ii,  87,  90,  91 
Garden    House,    Clement's    Inn, 

VIII,  30 
Greyfriars'  Church,  ii,  ]o6 
Newgate  Prison,  ii,  106 
St.    James's    Church,    Piccadilly, 

i,  10,  32 ;  ii,  105 
St.  Martin's-in-the-Fields,    i,    10, 

17;  ii,  86,  94 
St.    Mary-le-Strand,    ii,    94,    104, 

105;  VIII,  32,  33,  34 
St.  Mary's  Woolnoth,  ii,  94 
St.  Paul's,  Old,  ii,  84 
Staircase  in   Devon.shire  Square, 

VIII,  26 

Street-plan.     Sir  C.  Wren's,  ii,  60 

Temple  Gate,  ii,  )03 

Trinity  Grand  Almshouse,  VIII, 

22 
Wren's  House.     Sir  C,  ii,  104 
York  Building,  ii,  89 

Longfellow  House,  Cambridge, 

Ma.ss.,  i,  4,  6,  12  ;  ii,  82 
Long  Island,  N.  Y.     Dutch  House, 

i,  12 
Longleat,  Eng.,  ii,  83 
Longmeadow,  Mass.     Samuel  Col- 
ton's  House,  ii,  62,  63 
Long.swamp    Old    Church,    Mertz- 

town,  Pa.,  i,  iS 
Lord  House   Porch,  Salem,  Mass., 
VH,  25 

"      Timothy      Dexter's      House, 
Newburyport,  Mass.,  ii,  78 
Ijost  Boy.     Story  of  the,  ii,  4 
Louis     Philippe    at    Canandaigua, 

N.  v.,  ii,  I,  2 
Lowell's  House,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

J.  R.,  i,  5 
Lower  Brandon,  Va.,  ii,  27,  28 


Lumber.     Pearly  sawed,  i,  i 
Lundy's  Lane.     Battle  of,  ii,  4 


-M  — 

Mabee  House,  Schenectady.  N.  Y., 

ii,  9 
Madeira  Wine,  ii,  52 
Madison  and  Dolly  Todd.     James, 

".55 
"         Barracks,    Sackett's    Har- 
bor, N.  v.,  ii,  7 
"         N.  J.     Old  House,  ii,  9 
Mahogany  Rails,  i,  21 
Mahone.     General,  ii,  23 
Maidstone,  Eng.   Banks  Almshouse, 

ii,  96,  99 
Manchester-by-the-Sea,  Ma.ss.  Con- 
gregational Church  Steeple,  i,  JO 
Mangin,  French  Draughtsman,  i,  18 
Mann.     Mary,  ii,  17 
Manor.     Van  Rensselaer.     Albany, 
N.  Y.,i,  13,14,15 
"  House,  Greenbush,    L.    I. 

Van  Rensselaer, 
i.  13 
"  "        Philipse,  Yonkers, 

N.    v.,   II,   24, 
25,  26,  27,  28, 
29 
"  Wandsworth,  Eng.,  VIII, 

14,  16,  18 
Mansion    House,    Albany,    N.    Y. 

Van  Rensselaer,  i,  13 
Mantelpieces,  i,  22,  42  ;  V,  4,  8,  9, 
13;  VI,  5,  7,  14; 
VII,  9,  20 
"  inlaid    by    Italian 

Workmen.       Dub- 
lin, ii,  in 

Mantelpieces  :  — 

In  Ayrault  House,   Geneseo, 

N.  Y.,  I,  32 
"  Bellingham-Cary  House,  Chel- 
sea, Mass.,  II,  49,  50 
"  Bicknell     House,     Rochester, 

N.  v.,  II,  5 
"  Blackford  House,  Fairfax  Co., 

Va.,  I,  10 
"  Carlyle     House,     Alexandria, 

Va.,  Ill,  J8 
"  Cazanove,  Alexandria,  Va.,  i, 

22 
"  Isaac  Cook  House,  Brookline, 

Mass.,  II,  18 
"  Culver  House,  Brighton,  N.  Y., 

V,  8 
at    Danversport,  Mass.,  VII,  21 
in   Erasmus    Hall,    Brooklyn, 

N.  v.,  IV,  7 
"  Essex   House,   Salem,   Mass., 

Ill,  13 
"  Forrester     House,      Salem, 

Mass.,  I,  13 
at   Gates,  N.  Y.,  II,  38 
"    Great  Wigsell,  Eng.,  VIII,  5 
in  Hargous      House,      Pittsford, 

N.  v.,  1, 32 
"  Haven    House,     Portsmouth, 

N.  IL,  VII,  23 
"  High  Wycombe,  Eng..  ii,  93 
"  Isaac  Hills  House,  Rochester, 

N.  Y.,  II,  4 
"  House  on  S.  3d  St.,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa.,  IV,  28 
"  Mappa  House,  Trenton,  N.  Y., 

V,  19,20,21 

"  Mayor's  Office,  South  Mol- 
ten, Eng.,  VIII,  5 

"  Morris  House,  Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  HI,  23 

"  Mt.  Pleasant,  Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  IV,  36 

"  Mumford  House,  Rochester, 
N.  Y.,  II,  4 

"  Myers    House,   Norfolk,   Va., 

VI.  16,  17,  18 
"  Nichols  House,  Salem,  Mass., 

HI,  14,  15 


ExiLANATios : — The  first  voluiiie  contains  Parts  I-IV,  the  second  Parts  V-VIII.     The  volume  is  indicated   by  "i"  or  "ii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-lace 
numerals.    The  fuil-page  i-lates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


GENERAL   INDEX  OE   TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


XX 


Mantelpieces  :  — 

In  Norton     House,      Goshen, 

Conn.,  II,  53,  56 
"  Octagon  House,  Washington, 

D.  C,  III,  J2,  16,  J7 
"  Office  of  Lamb  &   Rich,  New- 
York,   N.   Y.,   Ill, 
19 
"       "       "  Arthur  Little,  i,  I4 
"  Oliver   House,   Salem,   Mass  , 

VII,  14 
"  P  h  i  I  i  p  s  e     Manor     House, 
Yonkers,  N.   V.,  II,  25,  26, 

"  Pingree  House,  Salem,  Mass  , 

IV,  6 
"  Sharritt's    House,    Baltimore 

Md.,  VI.,  J3 
"  Shirley  Parlor,  VI,  32 
"  Thompson     House,     Charles- 
town,  Mass.,  II,  8 
at   Tuckahoe,  ii,  33 
in   Upsal    House,    Germantown, 

Pa.,  VI,  2,  3 
"Van      Rensselaer      Mansion, 

Albany,  N.  Y.,  i,  J  3 
"  Waitt      Place,      Barnstable, 

Ma.ss.,  HI,  J9 
"  Westover,  Va.,  I,  22 
"  Williams     House,     Boston, 

Mass.,  II,  14,  16 
"  Williamsburg,  Va.,  i,  23 
"  Wister   House,    Germantown, 

Pa ,  VI,  8 
"  Workingwomen's       Bureau, 

Salem,  Mass.,  I,  14 
at   Woodlawn,  Va.,  VI,  25,  26 
Manuscript.     The  Mason,  ii,  50 
Map  of  the  James  River,  Va.,  ii,  13 
Mappa.     Col.  Adam  G.,  ii,  10 
"  House,  Trenton,  X.  Y.,  ii. 

10;  V,  )4,  16,  17,  18, 
19,21,22 
"  John,  ii,  10 

Marblehead,  Ma.ss.     Jeremiah  Lee's 
House,  ii,  82 
"  Staircase    in    Lee 

House.  I,  27 
Market,  Newport,  R.  I.,  i,  1 1 

"        Rochester,  N.  Y.,  ii,  1 
Market -town    Town -halls.     Small 

English,  ii,  95 
Marlboro,  Va.,  ii,  50 
Martin's  Brandon,  Va.,  ii.  32 
Maryland  Manor  House.     A,  i,  19 
Maryland's  First  Capital,  ii,  58 
Marx  House,  Annapolis,  Md.,  ii,  4 
Mason  of  Gunston,  ii,  48 

"       George  C  Architect,  i,  10 
"      George,  "  Wisest  Man  of  his 

Generation,"  ii,  ^4 
"       Mrs.  Col.,  ii,  9 
Mason's  Manuscrijjt.     Gen.,  ii,  50 
Massachusetts.    Colonial  Architect- 
ure in   Western, 
ii,  61 
•'  Hall,     Cambridge, 

Mass.,  ii,  82 
Massacre.     Indian,  ii,  14.  38,  62 

"  James  River,  ii,  32 

Matrons,     College    of.      Salisbury, 

Eng.,  ii.  96;VIII,  23 
Maury.     Rev.  Mr.,  ii,  30 
"  Mayflower  "  Furniture,  ii,  84 
McBean,  Architect,  i,  17 
McComb.     John,    Architect,  i,    17, 

18 
McDowell  Hall,  Annapolis,  Md.,  ii, 

60 
McKim,  Mead  &  White,  .Vrchitects, 

'■  23 
Mclean  Asylum  Building,     Somer- 
ville,    Mass.,    ii, 
84 
"  "        Stairs.      The,     ii, 

79.  S5 
Medford  Historical  Society,  ii,  72 
"         Mass.,  Brickyards,  ii,  77 
"  "       Cradock    House,  i, 

2,  3;  ii.  -2.  Si 
"  "        Garrison    House, 

ii,  72 


Medford,  Mass.    Hall  House  Balus- 
trade, i,  7 
"         Koyall    House,    I, 
2,  3,  4,  5,   6; 
ii>  72,  82 
Meeting-house.     See  ••  Church." 

"  Burlington,  N.    J. 

Friends',  i,  9 
First,  i,  3s 
The,  ii,  67 
Meetmghouses.     Selling,  ii,  70 
Memorial    Tablet    in    Atherington, 

Eng.     Church,  ii,  J04 
Mennonites,  i,  15 

Mertztown,    Pa.     Longswamp    Re- 
formed Church,  i,  18 
Metalwork.     English    Georgian,    ii, 

98 
Methodist     Episcopal      Church, 

Waterloo,  N.  Y.,  i,  17 
Middle  Plantation,  ii,  13 

"       Provinces,  i,  1 1 
Middlesex,  Eng.     Entrance  Screen 

to  Syon  House,  VIII,  15 
Military  Homes,  i,  I,  2 
Millwood,  Va.     Carter  Hall,  ii,  34 
Ministers'     Grant,     Lenox,     Mass. 

The,  ii,  83 
Mirror  Frame,  I,  31 
Mohawk  Valley,  N.  Y.,  ii,  10 
Monastery,  Ephrata,  Pa.,  IV,  J  8 

"  I'hiladelphia,  Pa.,  i,  15 

Monticello,    Charlottesville,    Va.,  i, 

23 
Monument,   UubHn.     The    Nelson, 

ii.  III 
Monumental     Church,     Richmond, 

Va.,  HI,  11 
Moravians,  i,  15 

Morris  House,  New  York,  N.  Y  ,  i, 
J3 
"  "        Philadelphia,        Pa., 

in,  20,  21,  22, 
23 

"  "         Washington       buys 

the,  ii,  47 
"       Reserve.     The,  ii,  4 
"       Robert,  ii,  4 
Mossom.     Rev.  Mr.,  ii,  25 
Moulded  Clapboards,  ii,  64 
Mount  Airy;  House  of  the  Tayloes, 
i,  29  ;   ii,  50 
Julian,  Fishkill,  X.  Y.,  i,  25 
"       Malado,  Va.,  ii,  32 
"        Morris,  N.  Y.,  ii,  2,  5 
"       Pleasant  Mansion,   Philadel- 
phia, Pa.,  IV,  30,  32,  33, 
35,36 
"       Vernon   Ladies  Association, 
ii,  48 
"        Va.,  11,27,41,44,45, 

4S,  54;   VI,  33, 
34,35 
-Moving  Churches,  ii,  68 
Mulberry  Trees,  ii,  14 
.Mumford  House  Mantel,  Rochester, 

N.  Y.,  II,  4 
Munday.     Richard,  Architect,  i,   10 
The  Salem,  i,  36 
Architect.       William,   ii. 


Northbrook      St., 


.Murd 
Murray. 

1 1 1 
Murravs 

ii.  57 
Myers  House.  Norfolk,  Va.     Barton, 

ii,  43;  VI.  12,  15,  16,  17,  18 


Acton,  the  Home  of  the. 


-N  — 

Narbonne  House,  .Salem,  Mass.,  ii, 

62 
Narragansett.  R.  I.      Church,  i,  9 
Navy  reserves  large  Trees.      Royal, 

ii,  64 
Nelson   House,   Yorktown,    Va.,  ii, 
19 
*'        Mrnuinient.  Dublin.    Archi- 
tect of,  ii.   Ill 
Thomas,  ii,  9 
New   Amsterdam    Government,    ii, 

10 
Newlmrv.  Eng.     Bridge   at,   ii,    98; 
Vlll,'25 


Newbury,  Eng, 
ii,  98 

Newburyport,  Mass.  :  — 
Collins  House,  ii,  72 
Garrison  House,  i,  2  ;  ii,  72 
Timothy,  Lord  Dexter's    House, 
ii,  78 

Newby  Hall,  Yorks,  Eng.,  ii,  96 
New-castle,  Eng.     Dormers,  i,  12 
Newel-posts,  i,  8;   IV,  I  •  V,  15• 
VI,  9 ;  VII,  2,  5,  8,  1 1 
New-  England.     Georgian    Houses, 

ii,  81 
New-gate  Prison,  Dublin,  ii,  no 
"         London,  Eng.,  ii,  106 

New  Haven,  Conn.:  — 
Old  North,  II,  10 
Steeple  of  First  Church,  II,  10 

New-    Kent    Co.,    Va.     St.     Peter's 

Church,  ii,  25 
Newport  New-s,  ii,  32 

Newport,  R.  I. :  — 

Ayrault  House  Hood,  i,  6 
Gov.  Bull  House,  i,  2 
Christopher  G.  Champlin  House, 

1,32 
City-hall,  i,  J 1 

Hazard  House,  Details,  I,  23,  24 
Historical  Society,  i,  31 
Seventh  Day  Baptist  Cnurch  Pul- 

pit.  i,  31  :  I.  20 
State-house,  i,  10,  1 1  ;  ii,  83 
Synagogue,  i,  10 
Town-hall,  i,  10,  1 1 
Trinity  Church,  i,  32 

"  "        Pulpit,  i,  10 

New  State-house,  Boston.     The,  i, 
1 1 
"     Sweden,  Del.,  i,  15 

New  York,  N.  Y.  :  — 
Apthorpe  House,  i,  14 
"  Brick  Church,"  i,  17 
Bull's  Head  Tavern,  i,  (9 
City  hall,  i,    17,   18;    II,  30,   34, 

35,  36,  37,  48 

Door-head.  A,  i,  12 
Dutch  Cottage,  i,  l4 
Iron  Newel-posts  on  Varick  St., 

IV,  1 
Jumel  Mansion,  i,  14 
King's  College,  i,  18 
Morris  House,  i,  13 
Oldest  House  in,  i,  16 
Old  Trinity  Church,  i,  16 
St.  John's  Chapel,  i,  17;  IV,  16 
St.  Paul's  Chapel,  i,    lO;   IV,    10, 

n,  12, 13 

Sub-trea.sury,  i,  18 

Niches,  i,  22,  23 

Nichols  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII, 
10 
"  "       Door,  VII,  22 

"  "       Mantel,  HI,  J4,  15 

Nicholson.     Gov.,  ii,  13 

"  Sir  Francis,  ii,  15 

Nicholson-Pierce  House  Door-head, 

Salem,  Mass.,  i,  8 
Nieuw  Amsterdam,  i,  II 
Nogging.     Brick,  ii,  74,  76 
Nomini,  House    of   Robert  Carter, 


Northampton,  Eng.     All  Saint  s' 
Church,      ii,      gc ; 
VUI,  15 
"  Mass.,  ii,  61,  62 

"  "       Attempt      to 

sell    the 
Meeting- 
house,  ii,  70 
"  "       First  Church, 

ii,   68,    69, 
70 
North  Church,  Boston,  Mass.     Old 
ii,  81,83 
"  "       New    Haven,   Conn. 

Old,  II,  10 
"      Runcton,  Eng.,  ii,  93 
Northern    and    Southern   Peculiari- 
ties.    Some,  ii,  76 
Northiam,  Sussex,  Eng.     Candela- 

bnim  at,  ii,  101 
Norton  House,  Goshen,  Conn.,  II, 

53,  54,  55,  56 
Nott.     Tomb   of   Gov.     Williams- 
burg, Va.,  ii,  J  6 

-o- 


11,  50 
Noon -house.     The,  ii,  71 
Norfolk,  Va.,  ii,  42 

"  "     bombarded    by    Lord 

Dunmore,  ii,  42 

Norfolk,  Va.  :  — 

Freeman  House,  VI,  19 

House   of   Barton    Mvers,  ii,  43; 

VI,  12,  15,  16,  J7,  18 
Porcli  of  the  Gen.  Gage  House, 

111,27 
St.  Bride's,  ii,  43 
"    Paul's  Church,  ii,  42 
Typical  Porches,  VI,  2J 

Norman's     "  Timm     ami     Country 
Bidlihr's  Assistant,''  ii,  65 


Oatlands,  Loudon  County,  Va     ii 

43 
Octagon    House,    Washington, 
D.  C,  i,  28 
"  "         Mantels,  III,  12, 

J6,  17 
Plan,  III,  17 
Office  of    the     Holland     Purchase, 
Batavia,  N.  Y.,  I,  33 
"      Front,  Lewes,  Eng.,  94,  97 
"      Register,  Dublin,  ii,  iii 
Old  Bailey  Prison,  London,  ii,  J06 
"    Corner    Bookstore,    Boston, 

Mass.,  ii,  82 
"    Manse,  Concord,  Mass.,  i,  3 
"    North  Church,  Boston,   Mass., 

ii,  81,  83 
"        "  "         New  Haven, 

Conn.,  II,  10 
"    Parliament  House,  Dublin,    ii, 

111 
"    St.  Paul's,  London,  ii,  84 
"    Ship  Church,  Ilingham,  Mass., 

i,  9;  IV,  17;  ii,  83 
"    South   Church,  Boston,  Mass., 

i,  10,  26;  IV,  14,  15 
"    State-house,   Boston,   Mass.,  i, 
10,  II;  II,  46,47;  ii,  72,83 
"    Stone  House,"  Guilford,  Conn., 

i,   1,2 

"      (Swedes')  Church,    Wil- 
mington, Del.,  i,  17 
"    Sw-edes'  Church,   Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  i,  18;  V,  Jl,  12 
Olden  Barneveld,  N.  Y.,  li,  10 
Oldest  House  in    New  York  City, 

i,  16 
Oliver   House,    Dorchester,    Mass., 

i,  5 
"  "  Salem,  Mass.,  VII, 

12,  14 

Olmsted.     F.  L.,  ii,  5 
'  Oneida."     Brig,  ii,  7 

Orkney.     Earl  of,  ii,  16 

Orr.     Tomb   of    Hugh.     Williams- 
burg. Va.,  ii,  16 

Osborne    House.        Nehemiah. 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  ii,  2 

Osgood  House  Door,  Salem,  Mass., 
VII,  )9 

Oulton  Hall,  Cheshire,  Eng.,  ii,  97 

Overhanging  Stories,  ii,  64 

Overhang  of  the  Eaves,  i,  13 

Ovid,  N.  Y.     Mantel  in  Indefemlent 
Office,  V, 

J3 

"  "        "  State   Road 

H  o  V  s  e , 
V,  13 
All  Saints'  Church, 


Oxford,  Eng. 


11,  94 
Iron  Gate,  St.  Giles, 

VIH. 27 
RatUliffe  Library,  ii, 

94-  98 


Exi'i.ANATi.  n: — The  first  volume  contains  Paris   I-IV,  the  second  Farts  V-VIII.     The  volume  is  indicated   by  "i"  or  "ii."    All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
numerals.    The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  tlie  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  tha»  Part 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Piers.    Hamjistead    Marshall,    Eng. 

Gate.  VIII.  9 
Piffard  House,  Piffard.  N.  V.,  ii,  5 
I'iffards.  ii.  5 

Pieeon  Cove,  Mass.     Old  House  at, 
i.  4 
House,  Shirley,  i.  21;  ii.  36 
Pike.     Gen.  Zebulon.  ii,  7 
Pineapple-House     Door,    Salem, 

Mass.,  VII,  J9 
Pine's  Portrait    of    Washington,  ii, 

■♦7 
Pingree  House,  Salem,  Mass..  i,  35 

Mantels,  IV,  6 
Pittsburijh.  Pa.,  Uoorway  on  Liberty 

St.,  in,  JO 

Pittsford,  N.  V.,  Mantel  in  Ilargous 

House,  I,  32 
Plastered  Houses,  i,  2 
Plaster  of  Clay,  Sand  and  Salt  Hay, 

ii,  74 
Plate-warmer,  II,  18 
Plymouth,  Mass.      Winslow  House, 

11,82,84,85;  vin,  2 

Pocahontas,  ii,  31 

"  Font,  ii,  16 

Pohick  Church,  Va.,  ii,  25,  44,  48, 

5°       . 
Poj>ulation  of  Dublin,  ii,  107 

Porches,  i.  6,  20;  IV,  35;  VII,  J2, 

)5,  16,22 
Porch  Plans,  i,  6 

Porches  :  — 

Alton,  Hants,  Eng.,  ii,  92 

Hrentford,  Eng.,  ii,  J02 

Childs  House,  Rochester,  N.  Y., 

11,6 
Culver  House,  Brighton,  N.   Y., 

I,  J 
General   Gage    House,    Norfolk, 

Va.,  Ill,  27 
Groombridge    Place,    near    Tun- 

bridge-Wells,  Eng.,  ii,  J03 
Gunston  Hall,  ii,  52 
Ilurd  House,  Charlestown,  M;tss., 

i,  7 
Isaac    Hill's    House,    Rochester, 

N.  v.,  II,  2 
Litchfield,  Conn.,  i,  6 
Norton    House,    Goshen,   Conn., 

11,54 
"Old    Ship"    Church,  Hingham, 

Mass.,  IV,  J  7 
Petworth,  Eng.,  VHI.  3 
Salem,  Mass.,  VI 1,  (8,  22,  25,  27 
Shirley,  Va.,  ii,  38 
Shreve     House,     Salem,     Mass., 

VII,  )7 
Smith    House,    Brighton,    N.    Y., 

ii,  J 
Taylor   House,   Roxbury,   Mass., 

i,  6 
\Valker     House,     Leno.x,     Mass. 

Judge,  VIII,  ) 
Williams    House,  Boston,  Mass., 

II,  J),  J2 
Woodlawn,  Va.,  VI,  22 

PorterHouse,  Iladley,  Mass.,  I,  22; 

ii,  64 
Portland-stone    Dressings,    Dublin, 

ii.  III 
Portraits  of  Washington,  ii,  38,  47 
Portsmouth,  .NMI.,ii,  57 

Portsmouth,  N.  II.:  — 

Balustrade     from     Governor 

Langdon's  House,  i,  7 
Cupboard  in  Jaffrey  House,  i,  8 
Door-head,  i,  6 

Ladd  House,  VII,  24;  ii,  82,  84 
Langdon  House,  i,  7,  8 ;  ii,  82 
Mantel  in  Haven  House,  VII,  23 
Old  Cottage  at,  i,  4 
"     Custom-house  Door,  I,  )2 

Post-office,   Dublin.     The    General, 

ii,  III 
"  Powder  Horn,"  Williamsburg,  Va., 

ii,  19,  20 
Powder  seized  at   Williamsburg,  ii, 

19 

Expr.ASATioN:— Th..-  first  volume  contains  Parts  I-JV,  the  secnd    Parts  V-VIlT^ 
numerals.     1  lie  lull  i.age  [jlates  are  jntlicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and 


—  P  — 

Paca  House,  Annapolis,  Md.,  ii,  27 ; 

VII.  I 
Pagan  Creek,  ii,  22 
Page.     John,  ii,  14,  16 
Mann,  ii,  35 
Matthew,  ii,  17 
Pain's.     William.     Architectural 

Book,  i.  5.  2S;  ii,  86 
Palace.     Hampton  Court,  ii.  97 
Palladian   Dictum  about   Doors. 
The,  ii,  99 
"  Windows,  i.  5,  7.  21 ;  II, 

20,  42,  54;   IV.  21; 
VII,  16 
Palladianism.     Inigo  Jones's,  ii,  100 
Pamunkey  Indians,  ii,  39 
Park,  B.ath,  Eng.     Prior,  ii,  95 
"      Street  Church,   Boston,  i,  9, 

10 
"      Wanstead,  Eng.,  ii,  105 
Parliament    Houses,   Dublin.     The 

old,  ii,  m 
Parsons'  Contest.     The,  ii,  30 
Patch.     Sam.  ii.  i 
Patriotic  Societies,  ii,  72 
Peabody.     Col.  Francis,  i,  36 
"  George,  i,  36 

•*  House.     Salem.     Mass. 

Geo.,  VII.  13 
Peale's  Portrait  of  Washington,  ii, 

38 
Penn.     William,  ii,  12 
Penn's  Boxwood  Trees,  i,  15 
Penn.sylvania    Hospital,     Philadel- 
phia, Pa.,  Ill,  1,  2,3,  4,  5,  8; 

IV,  34  ;  ii.  79,  80 
Pepperell    Mansion,    Kittery,    Me., 

i,  4 ;  ii,  82 
Pequannock,    Conn.      The    Avery 

House,  i,  3 
Peterboro'     and     Evelyn     Byrd. 

Lord,  ii,  41 
Petersburg     founded     by    Colonel 

Byrd,  ii,  41 
Petworth,  Eng.     Porch  at,  VIII,  3 
Phelps  and  Gorham.     Messrs.,  ii.  4 

"  "  "  P  u  r  c  h  a  s  e, 

ii,  2 

Phil.\delphia,  Pa.:  — 

Bartram  House.     John,  IV,  9 
Carpenteni'  Hall,  HI,  31,  32 
Christ  Church,  i,   17,   18;  ii,  12; 

11,42,43,44,45;  IV,  31 
Cupolas  of  Pennsylvania  Hospi- 
tal, IV,  34 
Independence   Hall,   i,    18;    IV, 
21,  22,23,24,25,26,27,29 
Livezey's  House,  i,  15 
Mantels  in  House  on  S.  3d  Street, 

IV,  28 
Monastery,  i,  1 5 

Morris  House,  111,20,21,22,23 
Mount     Pleasant     Mansion,     IV, 

30,  32,  33,  35,  36 

Old  Swedes  Church,  i,  18;  ii,  12; 

V,  11,  12 

Pennsylvania  Hospital,  III,  ),  2, 
3,4,5,8;  IV,  34;  ii,  79,  80 

Ridgeway  Library,  i,  19 

Solitude,  VI,  10,'  11 

St.  Peter's  P.  E,  Church,  i,  17  ;  ii, 
12;  V,3,6 

Woodford  House,  VI,  4,  5 

Zion  Church,  i,  17 

Philipse    Manor    House,    Yonkers, 

N.  v.,  i,  14;  11,24,25,26,27, 

28,  29 
Phillips     House    Window,    Salem, 

Mass.,  IV,  5 
Photographer.     Galsworthy    Davie, 

ii,  96 
Piano.     Oakland,  Cal.,  I,  30 
Piazzas,  ii,  80 
Pickering   House,  Salem,  Ma-ss.,  i, 

33,  34,  .35 
Pickman  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII 

16 
Pier  Termination,  Carlisle  Parade, 

Ha.stings,  Eng.,  VIII,  J7 


Powhatan,  ii,  31 

Powhatan's  Chimney,  ii,  26 

Pre.-icott,  i,  34 

President's       House,      Cambridge, 

Mass.,  ii,  82 
Prince  Arthur's  Visit,  i,  36 
Pringle    House,  S.  C.     Gov.   Bull, 

i,  20 
Prior  Park,  Bath,  Eng.,  ii,  95 
Prison,  Newgate,  Dublin,  ii,  no 

"  "  London,  ii,  106 

Providence,  R.  I.     Doorway  in,  i,  7 
"  "        Typical  Houses, 

111,30 
Province  House,  Boston,  Mass.,  ii, 

82 
Prudery  of  Harley  St.     The,  ii,  105 
Public  Architecture  in    the   South, 
i,  22 
"  "  of  the  Middle 

Provinces,  i, 
16 
"       Library,     Boston,     Mass. 
Old,  i,  7 
Pulpits,  IV,  12,31;  ii,  98 

Pl'I.riTS  :  — 

Christ   Church,  Alexandria,  Va., 

11,21,22 
Gloria  Dei,  Philadelphia,  ii,  12 
King's   Chapel,  Boston,  Mass.,  i, 

9;  I,  15,  18,  19 

Newport,  R.  I.,  i,  32 

Old  Meeting-house,  Sandown, 
N.  H.,  I,  7 

St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church,  Phila- 
delphia, V,  6 

Seventh  Day  Baptist  Church, 
Newport,  R.  I.,  I,  20 

Trinity  Church,  Newport,  R.  I., 
i,  10 

Puncheon  Floors,  i,  20 

"  Pavements,  ii,  30 

Punishments.        Governor      Dale's 

severe,  ii,  38 
Putnam  and  the  First   Meeting- 
house  at  Salem.     Eben., 

',35 
"        House,     Danvers,      Mass. 
The  General,  i,  4 
Putney,  Eng.     Doorway  of  the  P'air- 

fax  House,  VIII,  6 
Pyncheon  Fort,  Springfield,  Ma.ss., 
ii,  62 
"  John,  ii,  62 


-Q- 

Quaker  Meeting-house,  Burlington, 

N.  J.,  i,  9 
Quakers,  i,  15 

Quarrels  over  Church  Sites,  ii,  71 
Quarters.     Servants',  i,  20;    ii,  27; 

VI,  34 

Quays.     Dublin,  ii,  108 
Quebec,  ii,  47 
(,)ueen  Anne,  ii,  81 

"  "      Statues  of,  ii,  105 

"       Anne's   Gate,    Westminster, 
Eng.  Doorway  in, 
ii,  89 
"  "        Gold      Communion 

Service,  ii,  16 
"       of  the  Pamunkeys,  ii,  39 
Queen's    Square,    London.      Door- 
way in,  ii,  90 
Quilter's  Chimney.     Mark,  ii,  75 
Qiiincy  Mansion,  Quincy,  Mass.,  i, 
3,  5 ;  ii,  82 


-K- 

Racing,  ii,  25 

Radcliffe  Library,  Oxford,  Eng.,  ii. 

94,  98 
Raisings.      Rum  at,  ii,  71 
Raleigh  Tavern,  ii,  17 
Randolph.     Ann,  ii,  17 

"  Hon.  Peyton,  ii,  19 


Randolphs,     Tuckahoe,  a  Home  of 

the,  ii,  33 
Ratcliffeboro,     S.    C.      St.     Paul's 

Church,  III,  11 
Rebellion.     Bacon's,  ii,  49 
Rebuilding  of  Bath,  Eng.,  ii,  95 

"  "  Blandford,    Eng.,    ii, 

98 
Red  Horse  Inn,  Sudbury,  Mass.,  i, 

Redwood  Library,  Newport,  R.  I., 

1,32 
Register    Office,    Dublin.     The,   u, 

III 
Removal   of   Church    Galleries,   ii, 

105 
Renaissance.     Blomfield's  Book  on 

English,  ii,  93 
Revere  House,  Boston,  Mass.     The 

Paul,  i,  4 
Review.     The  Architectural,  ii,  99 
Revival.     Eastlake's  History  of  the 
Gothic,  ii,  86 
"  The  Greek,  i,  8,  13,   18; 

ii,  2,  86 
"  The  Roman,  ii,  86 

Riccabecrian    Indians   defeat    CoL 

Hill,  ii,  39 
Richland,  Home  of  the  Brents,  ii, 

50 
Richmond,  Va.  :  — 

Founded  by  Col.  Byrd,  ii,  41 

Monumental  Church,  III,  jl 

Old  Stone  House,  III,  6 

State-house,  i,  23 

Van  Lew  House,  ii,  34 

Ridgway  Library,  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

i,  19 
Riding-schools.     British,  i,  32 
Riedesel  House,  Cambridge,  Mass., 

ii,  82 
Riverdale,  Md.     Baltimore  House, 

VI,  28,  29,  30,  31 
River    Front   of    Hampton    Court 

Palace,  Eng,  VIII,  J 2 
Roads  of  Dublin.     The  Circular,  ii, 

108 
Rochambeau,  ii,  45 

Rochester,  N.  Y.  :  — 

Bicknell  House  Mantels,  II,  5 
Childs  House  Cornice,  II,  1 

"      Porch,  II,  6 
Eagle  Tavern,  ii,  3 
Griffith  House  Entrance,  ii,  2 
Hills  House  Dooiway.    Isaac,  II, 
3 
"  "      Mantel.     Isaac,  11,4 

"  "      Porch.     Isaac,  II,  2 

Livingston  Park  Seminary,  ii,  3 
Market,  ii,  1 
Mumford  House  Mantel,  II,  4 

Rockwell    House,     Lenox,     Mass. 

The  Judge,  ii,  83;  VIII,  1 
Rococo  Ornament,  i,  8 
Rogers  Manse,  Ipswich,  Mass.,  ii,  75 

T.  Mellon,  Architect,  i,  18 
Rolfe.     John,  ii,  16,  31 
Roman  Catholic  Blessing.     The,  ii, 

lOI 

"        Revival.     The,  ii,  86 
Roof -balustrades,  i,  6,  12 
Roof-frame  of  Mappa  House,  Tren- 
ton, N.  v.,  ii,  10 
Roof  of  Old  South  Church,  Boston, 

Mass.,  IV,  15 
Roof-lanterns,  ii,  96 
Roof -truss   of    Octagon    House, 
Washington, 
D.  C,  i,  29 
"  "    Seventh  Day  Baptis 

Church,  Newpor. 

i-32 
Roofs,  i,  4 

"       Deck,  ii,  77 

Flat,  i,  21 
"       Gable,  ii,  82 
"       Gambrel,  i,  4,  12   21  j  ii,  64, 

82 
"       Hipped,  i,  4  ;  ii,  66,  77 
"       Thatched,  ii,  62,  68  ' 


The  volume  is  indicated   by  "i"  or  "ii." 
bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the 


All  illustrations  are  indicated  bv  bold-face 
plate  in  that  Part. 


GENERAL   INDEX  OF  TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Rosewell,  Whitemarsh,  Va.,  i,  21; 

ii,  16,  17,  35;  VII,  4 
Rotunda,  Citv-liail,  New    York, 
N.  Y„  II,  30,36,37 
"         Hospital,  Dublin,  ii,  105 ; 
VIII,  42 
Roxbury,   Mass.     Steeple   of  First 
Unitarian 
Church,  i,  JO 
"  "         Taylor  House,  i, 

*      .  .         ..     ,    65  IV,  J9, 20 

«oyal  Arms,  u,  96;  VIII,  J7 
"      Exchange,  Dublin,  ii,  1 10 
"      Hibernian  Academy  of  Arts, 
ii.  III 
Royal!  House,  Medford,   Mass,,    I, 

2,  3,  4,  5,  6;  ii,  72.  82 
Rum  for  Raisings,  ii,  71 
Rumford,     Count,  i,  34 

"  House  Balustrade,  i,  7 

"  "       Dormer,  i,  7 

Rumford's  Ball-room.     Count,  ii,  77 
"  House,    Woburn,   Mass, 

Count,  i,  6 
Rye,  Sussex,  Eng,  Ahar-table,  ii,  98, 
J  02 
"  "       Bay-window,  ii,  97,  98 

"  "       Garden-house,  ii,  97 

"  "       Tow-n-hall,  11,96;  VIII 

J9 


-8  — 

Saal  and  Saron,  Ephrata,  Pa.,  i,  J6  • 

IV,  J  8 
Sabbatarian  Society  of  Newport,  i, 

3' 
Sabine  Hall,  Richmond  Co,,  Va,,  ii, 

43 
Sackett.     August,  ii,  8 

"  House,  Sackett's  Harbor, 

N.  v.,  ii,  8j   III,  25, 
26 
Sackett's  Harbor,  N,  Y,,  ii,  7 

"  "        Camp  House,  V, 

)0 
"  "        Sackett  House, 

HI.  25,  26 
•*  "        WoolsL-y     House, 

III.  25.  26 
SafFord  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII, 

J3,25 
St.  Bride's,  Norfolk,  Va..  ii,  43 
St.  Cros.s,  Winchester,   Eng.     Bay- 

window,  ii,  100 
St.  Dunstan's  Church,   Cranbrook. 

Eng.     Royal  Arms  in,  VIII.  J 7 
St.  George's  Church,  Dublin,  ii,  i  ii 
St.  Giles,  Oxford,  Eng.     Iron  Gate, 

VIII,  27 
St.  James's  Church,  Picadilly,  I-on- 
don.  i,  10,  32  ; 
ii,  105 
••         "  "         Goose      Creek, 

•S,  C.  i,  24; 
III. 6 
St  John's  Chapel.  New  \ork,  X.  V.. 

i.  17;  IV.  J6 
**       "       College,  Annap<jlis,    Md., 

i,  23;  ii,  60 
"       "      Richmond,  Va.,  ii.  34 
St.  Luke's  Church,  Smithfield,  i,  23; 
ii,  20.  22.  23 


St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church,    Philade! 

phia.  Pa.,  i,  17;  ii,  12;  V,  3,  6 
St.  Sepulchre,  London,  ii,  26 
Salaries  paid  in  Tobacco,  ii,  15,  24, 

Salem,  Mass.  :  — 
Backyard.     A,  i,  34 
Bertram    Home  for   Aged   Men, 

VII,  31 
Box-stairs,  ii,  78 
Brooks  House  Staircase,  VII,  6 
Cabot  House,  VII,  7,  8,  9 
Cadet  Armory,  i,  36 
Custom-house,  i.  10,  J  J,  34 
Derby  House,  VII,  7 
Door-head.     A,  i,  8 
Doorways,  VII,  J 9,  22 
Emerton  House,  VII,  J 6 
Essex  House  Mantel,  III,  J3 

"       Institute,  i,  36 
First  Meeting-house,  i,  35 
Forrester  House  Mantel,  I,    J3. 

vn,  j5 

Furniture,  IV,  3 

(Jate  posts,  IV,  2 

Hamilton  Hall,  IV,  8 

Hodges  House  Newel-post,  i,  8; 

VII,  JO,  u 
House  of  Seven  Gables,  i,  9 
1  lubon  House  Staircase,  VII,  5, 6 
Mantel    in    Working     Women's 

Bureau,  I,  J 4 
Murder.     The  White,  i,  36 
Nichols  House,  III,  J4,  J5  ;  VII, 

JO 
Nicholson- Pierce    House    Door- 
head,  i,  8 
Oliver  House,  VII,  J2,  J4 
I'eabody  House.     Gov.,  VII,  J3 
Pickering  House,  i,  33,  34,  35 
Pingree  House,  i,  35;  IV,  6 
Plaster  Ceiling,  i,  8 
Porches,  VII,  25,  27 
Safford  House,  VII,  J3,  25 
Shreve  House  Porch,  VII,  J7 
Six  Hours  in,  i,  "^"j 
■South  Church,  VII,  33 
Staircase,  125  Derby  St.,  VII,  2, 


Typical  House.     A,  i,  35 
Waller  House,  VII,  29 
Window  of  l'hilli])s  House,  IV,  5 
Witch  House,  i,  4 

Sai.isI!|:ry,  ICnc.  :  — 

College  of  Matrons,  ii,  96;  VIII, 

23 
House  in  the  Close,  ii,  95;  VIII, 

28 
Iron  Entrance-gate.  VIII,  27 
White  Hart  Inn,  ii,  96 

.Salt  Hay  for  Hair  in  Plaster,  ii,  74 
Sandown,  N.  H.     Door  to  Old  Meet 
ing-house,  I,  8 
"  "        Pulpit  in,  I,  7 

.Sandys,     Sir  P^dwin,  ii,  32 
"  George,  ii,  32 

"  Sends  Women  to  the  Col 

onies,     ,Sir  E.,  ii,  31 
Saw-mills.     Early,  i,  i 
"  Scarlet  Letter"' \,  34 
Scenic  Wall-])aper,  i,  8;  ii,  9 
St.  Martin's-in-the- Fields,   Ixjndon,    Schenectady,  \.  V.     Mabee  House, 

i,  TO,  17;  ii.  86,  94  [      ii.  9 

St.  Mar)'-le  Strand.   I^ndon.  ii,  94. 

104,  105;  VIII.  32,33,  34 

St.  Marj's  City,  Mar) land's   !•'  i  r  s  t 

C'apital,  ii,  58 
"        "       Woolnoth,    Ixjndon,    ii, 

94 
St.  Memin,      Portraits  by.  ii.  38 
St.  Paul's  Chapel.  New  York,  N.  Y.. 
i,  lO;   IV,    JO,    Jl,    12, 

J3 

••       "       Church,  Ivr)ndon.     ( Md,  ii, 

84 

«       "      Norfolk.  Va..  ii.  42 

"       «       Ratclifleboro,   S.   C,    III, 

Jl 
St.  Peter's  Church.  New   Kent   Co., 
Va.,  ii,  25 


School-house,  Cranbrook,  Eng.,   ii, 
95 
"  Dul)lin.        Blue-coat, 

ii,  112;  VIII,  44 
Schuyler.     Montgomery,  i,  18 
Scott.     Gen.  Winfield,  ii,  4 

"  House      Stair-end,      Amia- 

polis,  Md.,  i,  22 
Screen  at  Syon   House,  Middlesex, 
Eng.     Entrance,  ii,  95;  VIII,  J5 
Seal  of  the  State  of  Virginia,  ii,  54 
Secular  Buildings,  i,  10 
Selling  Meeting-houses,  ii,  70 
Seminary,  Granger  Place.   Can  an 
daigua,  N.  Y.,  ii,  3 
"  Livingstone     Park,     Ro 

Chester,  N.  Y.,  ii,  3 


Senate-house,  Cambridge,  Eng.,  ii, 

94 
Seneca  Lake,  ii,  3 
Sergeant.     Peter,  ii,  82 
Serpentine  Wall.     Jefferson's,  i,  23 
Service's  Patent,  ii,  10 
Seton  House,  Washington,  D.   C, 

I.  28,  29 
Seven  Gables.     House  with,  i,  34 
Seventh  Day  Baptist  Church,  New- 
port, R.  I.,  i,  31 ;  I, 
20 
"  "     Baptists,  i,  15 

Seymour.     Atty.  Gen.,  ii,  19 

"  Horatio,  ii,  10 

Sharrett's    House    Mantels,    Balti- 
more, Md.,  VI,  13 
Shell  Door-heads,  i,  5,  21  ;    ii,    87, 

100;  VIII,  6,  8,  JO 
Shelly,  Va.,  ii,  16 
Sherman.     John,  ii,  11 
"  Roger,  ii,  1 1 

Sherman's    March    through    South 

Carolina,  ii,  28 
Ship-carvers  and  Twisted  Balusters, 

ii'  77 
Ship  Church,  Hingham,  Mass.    The 

Old,  i,  9;  ii,  83 
Shirley  Hundred,  ii,  31 

"       James  River,  Va.,  i,   19,  20, 
2.;  ii,35;  VI,  27,32 
Shop-front,  Lewes,  Eng.,  ii,  97,  J  00 
Shreve  House  Porch,  Salem,  Mass., 

VII,  J7 
Shrewsbury,  N.  J.     Christ  Church, 

i,  10 
Shute's  Book  on  Classical  Design, 

ii,  86 
Side-lights,  i,  13;  II,  3,  41;  HI,  7; 

IV,  8;  ii,  2 
Silk-growing  in  Virginia,  ii,  14 
Smibert.     John,  Architect,  i,  10 
Skipworth.     Col.  Henry,  ii,  18 
Smith.     Capt.  John,  ii,  22,  26,  42,  52 
"  House     Porch,     Brighton, 

N.  Y.,  ii,  J 
Smithfield.     St.  I,uke's,  ii,  22,  23 
Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  i,  25 
Solid  Steps,  i,  22 
.Solitary  Brethren,  i,  15 
Solitude,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  VI,   JO, 

JJ 
Somerville,  Mass.   McLean  Asylum, 

ii,  79.  85 
Sounding-boards,  i,   10,  32;  I,   J9; 

IV,  J3 
South  Carolina.    Gov.  Bull  Pringle's 
House,  i,  20 
"  "  .Sherman's  Passage 

through,  ii,  28 
"      Church,  Salem,  Ma,ss.,    VII, 

33 
"      Hadley,  Ma.ss.,  ii,  71 
"       Kensington.  Eng.     Old  Deal 

Door,  VIII,  4 
"      Molton,  Eng.   Mantel      in 
Mayor's 
Office,  VIII, 
5 


"  "  "      Royal    Arms, 

ii,  96;  VI I L 
J7 

"  "  "     Town -hall, 

ii,  96;  VIII, 

J7,  J9 

Southampton,  Ma.ss.,  ii,  62 
Southern  House-plan.     Typical,  ii, 

77 

"  Peculiarities,  ii,  76 

"  Provinces.      Architecture 

of  the,  i,  19 
Spencer- Pierce    House,     Newbury- 

port,  Mass.,  i,  2 
.Spire,  see  "  Steeple." 
Spotswood.     Gen.,  ii,  17 

"  (jov.,  ii,  15,  18,  20,  42, 

49 
Spratz.     William,  a  Hessian  Archi- 
tect, i,  5 

Springfield,  Mass:  — 
Alexander  House,  ii,  66,  67 


Springfield,  Mass.:  — 

Dwight  House.     Josiah,  I,  2\ 

Ely  Tavern,  ii,  62 

First  Church,  ii,  69 

Pyncheon  Fort,  ii,  62 
Springfield,  Va.,  ii,  52 
Spy.     Miss  Bet  Van  Lew,  the  Union, 

ii,  34 
Stable,  Homewood,  Bahimore,  Md„ 

i,  22 
Staircase-hall,     The,  i,  7 

Staircases : — 
Baltimore  House,  Riverdale,  Md, 

VI,  29 
Bellingham-Cary  House,  Chelsea, 

Mass.,  II,  5J 
Brooks  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII, 

6 
Cabot     House,      Salem,      Mass. 

Joseph,  VII,  8 
125  Derby  St.,  Salem,  Mass.,  VII,, 

2,3 
Devonshire    Sq.,   London,  VIII, 

26 
Gunston  Hall,  Va.,  ii,  54 
Ilollister    House,     Greenfield, 

Mass.,  ii,  65 
Hubon     House,    Salem,    Mass., 

VII,  5,  6 
Ladd  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H., 

VII,  24 
Lee  House,  Marblehead,  Mass., 

I,  J7 
McLean    Asylum,    Somerville, 

Mass.,  ii,  79,  85 
New  York  City-hall,  II,  30,  37 
Old  State-house,  Boston,   Mass., 

11,47 
Pennsylvania  Hospital,   Philadel- 
phia, Pa.,  ii,  36,37 
Philipse  Manor  House,  Yonkers, 

N.  Y..  II,  28 
Shirley,  Va.,  ii,  36,  37 
Tuckahoe,  Va.,  VI,  9 
Wandsworth  Manor,  Eng.,  VIII, 

J4 
Westover,  Va.,  ii,  40 
Winslow     House,     Plymouth, 

Ma.ss.,  VIII,  2 

Stair  Ends,  i,  2J,  22;  II,  J 6,  28, 

52;  VI,  24,  29 

"     Railings,  i,  8,  22  ;   III,   28, 

29;   ii,   79;   IV,  33;   VI, 

J  J,  24;  VII,  2,  5,  6,  8,  J  J 

Stairs,  i,  21;  IV,  24;  V,  J5,  22; 

VI,  5 
Stadt  Huys,  New  York,  N.  Y.     The 

Old,  i,  16 
Stalls.     Georgian  Church,  ii,  98 
State-house,  Annapolis,  Md.,  i,  23; 
ii,  59 
"  Bulfinch     Front,     Bos- 

ton, i,  II 
"  Newport,  R.  I.,  i,   10, 

JJ;  ii,  83 
"  Old,  Boston,  Mass.,  i, 

10,  JJ;  11,46,  47; 

11,  72,  83 

"  Richmond,  Va.,  i,  23 

Statue  of  Norborne  Berkeley,  ii,  19 
"       "  Grattan,  Dublin,  ii,  11 1 
"      "  Washington.      Houdon's, 

ii,  47 
Statues  of  Queen  Anne,  ii,  105 
Stearns  House  Porch,  Salem,  Mass., 

VII,  27 

Stebbins  House  Doors,    Deerfield, 

M.-Lss.,  ii.  64 
Steeple,  II,  42,  43 

Stf.eple  :  — 

Congregational     Church,      Man- 

chester-by-the-Sea,  Ma.ss.,  i,  JQ 

First  Church,  New  Haven,  Conn,, 

II,  JO 

"     Unitarian  Church,  Roxbury, 

Mass.,  i,   JO 

Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia, 

Pa.,  IV,  25 
Old  North  Church,  New-  Haven, 
Conn.,  II,  JO 


Explanation:  —The  first  voJiime  contains    Pans    I-IV,  the  sccnnd  Parts  V-VIII.     The  volume  is  indicated  by  "i"  or  "ii.''     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
numerals.     The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


Xll 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Steeile:  — 

Park     Street     Church,     Boston, 
Mass.,  i.  9 

St.     Mar)-  •  le  -  Strand,     Ijondoii. 
VIII,  34 
Stewart    House.     Annapolis,    Md. 

The  Peggy,  ii.  60 
"Stone    House."   Guilford,    Conn. 

Old."  i.  I,  .: 
Stepped  (rabies,  i.  12 
Story  of  the  Ix>st  Boy,  ii.  4 
Stratford     House,      Westmoreland 

Co..  Va.,  ii,  2J»  50 
Street.     The     Eighteenth  -  century 
English,  ii,  98 

"         English    Houses   built    on 
the.  ii.  97 

"         The  Village,  ii,  63 
Street    railways     and     the    Village 

Stree  ,  ii,  63 
Streets    Commission.     Dublin's 

Wide,  ii,  loS 
Strickland.     Wni.,  Architect,  ii,  12 
Strikes  in  Dublin.     Early,  ii,  112 
Stuart's  Portrait  of   Nellie   Custis. 

Gilbert,  ii,  49 
Stucco,  i    15 

"        Walls,  ii,  10 
Sub-treasury,  New  York,  N.  Y.,  i, 

18 
Suburban    English     Towns.      The 

I.ayout  of.  ii.  97 
Sudbury,    Mass.     Red  Horse  Inn, 

i,  2  ;  ii,  82 
Sudwell.     Col.  Philip,  ii,  14,  21 
Suicide  of  John  Ames,  ii,  G9 
Sullivan.     Gen.,  ii,  5 
Sumptuary  I.aws,  ii,  77 
Sunbursts,  II,  5;  IV,  7,  27;  V,  21 
Sundial.     A  Susse.x,  Eng.,  ii,  9  J 
Sunrise     Tavern     Interiors,    Fred- 
ericksburg, Va.,  ii,  46 
Surgeons,     Dublin.      College     of, 

VIII,  44 
Susquehanna,  i,  12 
Swan's  Architectural  Book,  i,  5  ;  ii, 

86 
Swedes  Church,  Philadelphia,    Pa. 
Gloria    Dei,    or 
Old,    i,    18;    ii, 

12;  V,  n,  12 

"  "         Wilmington,  Del., 

i,  J7 
Swedish  National  Church,  ii,  12 
Sweeney's  Lane,   Dublin.     Houses 

in,  ii,'l09 
Synagogue,  Newport,  R.  I.,  i,  10 
Syon  House,  Middlesex,  Eng.     En- 
trance Screen,  ii,  95  ;  VIII,  15 

—  T  — 

Table.     Card,  I,  3  J 

"       Chronological,  i,  9 
Tablet     in     Atherington      Church, 

Eng.,  ii,  J  04 
Taliefero.     Colonel,  ii,  iS 
Tarleton's      Dragoons      at     Lower 

Brandon,  Va.,  ii,  27 

T.\i-ERNS:^ 

"  Bull's  Head."    New  York,  N.  Y. 

i,  J9 
"  Cherry,"  ii,  54 

"  Eagle."  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  ii,  3 
"  Ely."  Springfield,  Mass.,  ii,  62 
"Gadsby's."     Alexandria,  Va.,  i, 

30 ;  1,9 
"  Raleigh,"     Williamsburg,     Va., 

i.  17 
'  Sunrise."     Fredericksburg,  Va., 

ii,46 
See  "  Inn." 

Tayloe.     Col.     John,  i,  29 

■'  House,   Washington, 

D.  C.      Mantels,  III, 
12.  16,  17 
Taylor.      Architect,  ii,  V,\ 

"  House,  Roxlniry,  Mass.,! 

6;  IV,  19,  20, 
Tea-party  House.  The  IJoston,  i,  5 


Temple  Inn  Gate,  London,  ii,  J03 
Thatched  Roofs,  ii.  62,  68 
Thibedeau,  Carpenter.     Mr.,  ii,  74 
Thompson  House,  Charles  town, 
Mass.     Door- 
w.ay,  II.  7 
"  "        Mantel,  II,  8 

Thornton.     Dr.  William,  Architect, 

i,  19;  ii,  48 
Thorpe.     George,  ii,  32 
Ticknor  House,  Boston,  ii.  86 
Tillman  Block,  Geneva,  N.  Y.,  li,  3 
Tiles.     Dutch,  i,  22 
Timbs,  Carver,  ii,  89 
Tinicum  Church,  ii,  12 
Tobacco.     Salaries  paid  in  ii,  1 5,  24, 

30 
Todd  and  Madison.     The  Widow, 

"•  55 
Tolles  Boy.     The  Ixist,  ii,  4 
Tomahawk  Frieze,  i,  23 
Tomb  of  the    Brays,  Williamsburg, 
Va.,  ii,  J5 
"        "  Joseph  Bridger,  ii,  24 
"        "  John  Carter,  ii,  24 
"        "  Governor  Nott,  Williams- 
burg, Va.,  ii,  J  6 
"      Townsend,     Witney,      Eng., 

VIII,  35 
"       of  Washington,  li,  48 
Tombs.     The  Blair,  ii,  21 

"  English  Georgian,  ii,  9S ; 

VIII,  3J,  35 
"  in  Fairford,  PJng.    Church- 

yard, VIII,  35 
Tojukins     Almshouse,     Abingdon, 

Eng.,  ii,  96,  99 
Tories'  Row,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  ii, 

81 
Totapotomoi,  Chief  of  the  Pamun- 

keys,  ii,  39 
Tower,  see  "  Steeple  " 

"       Armagh  Cathedral,  ii,  no 
"       Dublin  Castle,  VIII,  46 
Towne.     Ithiel.     Architect,  ii,  70 
Town-hall,  Abingdon,  Eng.,  ii,  95 ; 

VIII,  J9 

■*  High   Wycombe,    Eng., 

ii,  98;  VIII,  2 J 
"  Newport,  R.  I.,  ii,  I J 

Rye,  Eng.,  ii,  96;  VIII, 

)9 
"  South  Molton,  Eng.,  ii, 

96;  VIII,  J7,  )9 
"  Weathersfield,  Conn.,  i, 

10 
"  Witney,    Eng.,    ii,    96; 

VIII,  21 
1'own-halls  of  small  Market-towns, 

ii.  95 
Towns.     The    I^ayout    of    English 

Suburban,  ii,  97 
'I'ownsend    Tomb,     Witney,    Eng., 

VIII.  35 
Tracery.     Window,  i,  13 
Trees  reserved  for  Royal  Navy,  ii, 

64 
Trenton,  N.  Y.,  ii,  10 

Trenton,  N.  Y.  :  — 
Billings  House,  ii,  1 1 
Decastro  House,  ii,  11 
Douglas  House,  ii,  11 
Griffith  Inn,  ii,  1 1 
Guiteau  House,  ii,  11 
Mappa  House,  ii,  lo;  V,  14,  16, 

17,  18,  19,20,21,22 
Van  der  Kemp  House,  ii,  11 

Triad    of    Georgian    Churches    in 

London.     A,  ii,  104 
Trinity  Almshouse  Gate,  Deptford, 
VIII,  24 
"       Church,  Newport,    R.    I.,   i, 

10,  32 
"  "       New    York,  N.   Y., 

ii,  4 
New   York,   N.   Y., 
Old,  i,  16 
"        College,    Dublin,    ii,     11 1; 

VIII,  48 
"        Ground    Almshouse,    I^on- 
don,  VIII,  22 


Trolley  opposed  by  Deerfield,  Ma-ss., 

ii,  f'3 

True  Architecture.  Georgian  Ar- 
chitecture, ii,  92 

Tuckahoe,  Goochland  Co.,  Va.,  ii, 
29,32-33;  VI,  6,  9 

Tudor  House,  Georgetown,  D.  C, 
111,24 

Tulip  Hill,  West  River,  Md.,  1,  20 

Tunbridge  Wells,  Eng.  Porch  of 
Groombridge  Place,  ii,  103 

Turkey  Frieze,  Winslow  House, 
Plymouth,  Mass.,  ii,  85;  VIII,  2 

Twisted  Balusters,  I,  1 5,  20,  27  ; 
II,  28,  47; 
ii,  86;  VII,  2, 
5,  6,  8,  n 

"  "         possibly    carved 

by    Ship-carv- 
ers, ii,  78 
Two -story  Columns,  i,  14 

"  Porches,  i,  20 

Typical  Salem  House,  i,  35 
Tyrone  House,  Dublin,  ii,  no 

-U- 

Unicorn.  Sculptured,  ii,  96;  VIII, 
17 

University  of  Virginia,  Charlottes- 
ville, Va.,  i,  23,  24 

Upjohn,  Architect.     R.,  ii,  4 

Upsal  House,  Germantown,  Pa., 
VI,  1,2,3       ■ 

Urns,  II,  16,  2),  22;  HI,  13,  J9, 
28,29;  IV,  2 

Utica,  N.  Y.,  ii,  10 


-V- 

Vanbrugh.      Sir   John.      Architect, 

ii,  84,  94,  95 
Van  Buren.     Martin,  ii,  10 
"     der  Kemp.     House,     Trentoh, 

N.  v.,  ii,  II 
"       "         "  Judge  Adrian,  ii, 

10 
"     Lew   House,    Richmond,    Va., 

ii,34 
"  Rensselaer  Manor,  Albany, 
N.  Y.,  i, 
J3,  13, 
14.  15; 
I,  JJ 
"  "  "        House, 

G  r  een- 
bush,  L. 
I.,i,  J3 
"  "  House   Door-head, 

i,  12,  13 
"  "  Mansion       House, 

Albany,    N.    Y., 

i,  13 

Vassall-Craigie-Ijongfellow    House, 
Cambridge,  Mass.,  i,  4,  6,  12;  ii, 
82 
Vassall  House,  Quincy,  ii,  82 
Venetian  Red,  i,  7 
Vernon.     Admiral,  ii,  44 
Verplanck.     Gulian,  i,  25 

"  House,  Fishkill,  N.  Y., 

i,  12,  25 
Vicarage,  Hailsham,  Eng.,  VIII,  7 

"         Lewisham,  Eng.,  ii,  94 
Village  Street.     The,  ii,  63 
ViUiers,  Duke  ?f  Buckingham,  ii,  89 
Virginia.     Colonial  Work  in,  ii,  13 

"  Company,  ii,  32 

Virginia  Gazette,  ii,  19 

— w- 

Wadsworth.     G.  W  ,  ii,  6 

"  House,  Cambridge, 

Mass.,  ii, 
82 

"  "        G  e  n  e  s  e  o, 

N.  v.,  i, 
15,22;  V, 
5 


Wadsworth.     W.  A.,  ii,  6 

Wadsworths.     The,  ii,  5 

Wainscoted  Walls,  i,  2 1 

Walker    House,    Lenox,    Mass. 
Judge,  ii,  83 

Wall.     Jefferson's  Serpentine,  i,  23 

Waller  House,  Salem,  Ma.ss.,  VII, 
29 

Wallis's  Book   on   Colonial  Archi- 
tecture.    F.  E.,  ii,  3 

Wall-paper.     Dutch  Scenic,  i,  8 

Wandsworth   Manor  House,  Eng., 
VIII,  14,  16,  18 

Wanstead  Park,  Eng.,  ii,  105 

Ward  House  Porch,  Salem,  Mass^ 
VII,  27 

Ware  Church,  Gloucester  Co.,  Va., 
ii,  22 
"      Mass.     First  Church,  ii,  70» 

71 
Ware's  "  Architecture"  ii,  86 

Washington.  Augustine,  ii,  44 

"  Charles,  ii,  54 

"  Family  Homes,  ii,  54 

"  George  Steptoe,  ii,  55 

"  John    Augustine,   ii, 

54 
"  Lawrence,  ii,  44,  54 

"  Lund,  ii,  45 

"  Samuel,  ii,  54 

Washington,  Gen.  George:  — 

General,  i,  29;  ii,  5,  42 
Houdon's  Statue  of,  ii,  47 
House  in  New  York,  ii,  47 
Inherits  Mount  Vernon,  ii,  44 
I^ast  Visit  to  Alexandria,  i,  30 
Lodge  Chair,  i,  30 
Marriage  of,  ii,  25,  44 
Portraits  of,  ii,  38,  47 
Surrenders  his  Commission,  ii,  60 
Will,  ii,  49 

Washington,  D,  C:  — 

Octagon    House,  i,  28;   III,   J2, 
16,  17 

Seton  House,  I,  28,  29 

The  United  States  Capitol,  i,  19 

Washington  House,  Frederick  s- 

burg.     The  Mary,  ii,  20 
Washington's  Home,    Claymont 

Court.     Bushrod,  ii,  55  ;  VI,  37 
Waterloo,  N.  Y.     M.  E.  Church,  i, 

17 
Waters.     Rev.  T.  Frank,  ii.  73 
Wayside  Iim,  Sudbury,  Mass.,  ii,  82 
Weathersfield,  Conn.,  ii,  61 

"  "        Doorway    of 

C  h  u  r  chill 
House,    ii, 
63 
«  «        Town -hall,  i, 

ID 
Weavers'  Hall,  Dublin,  ii,  J09 
Webster.     Daniel,  i,  36 
Webster's      Second      Wedding. 

Daniel,  ii,  5 
Wells  House,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  ii, 

82 
Wendel.     Theodore.    Painter,  ii,  73 
Wentworth   House,  Little   Harbor, 

N.  H.,  ii,  82 
Weromocomoco,  ii,  16 
West  Boston  Church,  ii,  86;  VII, 

26,28 
Westfield.  Mass.,  ii,  62 
Westminster,  Eng.     Door-head,    ii, 
90 
"  "        Doorway,       ii, 

89 
Westover.  James  River,  Va.,  i,  19, 

20,  21,  22 ;  ii>  18,  27-  28,  32,  40, 
41 
West  River,  Md.     Tulip  Hill,  i,  20 
"      Springfield,  Mass.,  ii,  62 
"  "  Mass.         First 

Church,  ii,  68 
"      Wycombe,     Eng.     Doorway, 
ii,  92 
Whipple.     John,  ii,  74 


Exp 
nuni^ra 


V^*rl"^ ■7^''''  ''"'  volume  contains  Parts  )-IV,  the  serond  Parts  V-VIII.    The  volume  is  indicated  by  "i"  or  "  ii."    All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
aU.     I  lie  full-page  plalesare  uidicafid  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  tlie  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  snowmg  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


GENERAL  INDEX  OF  TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Xlll 


Whipple    House,   Ipswich,   Mass., 

"•  7:=.  73,  74 
Whitehall.     Architrave  Base,  i,  23 
Md.     Door-head,  i,  22 
White    Hart  Inn,  Salisbury,    Eng., 

ii.  96 
Whitemarsh,     Va.        "  Rosewell," 

VII,  5 
Wicks.   Williams.   Architect,  ii,  10 
Wide-streets    Commission.      Dub- 
lin's, ii,  108 
Wilkins,  Architect  of  Nelson  Monu- 
ment, Dublin,  ii,  1 11 
Will.     Wa.shington's,  ii,  49 
William  III.     King,  ii,  19 

"        and    Mary    College,    Will- 
iamsburg,    Va.,    i,    22 ; 
ii,  J  8 
"        and       Mary       College. 
P'ounder  of,  ii,  15 
Williams.    Ephraim,  ii,  83 

"  House,  Salem,    Mass. 

Roger,  i,  9, 

34 
"  "         1234     Washing- 

ton St.,  Bos- 
ton. II,  n, 
J2,J3,J4,J5, 

"  Roger,  i,  34 

Williamsburg,  Va.,  i,  19;  ii,  13 


Williamsburg,  Va.  :  — 

Bniton  Parish  Church,  ii,  14,  15 
Christ  Church,  i,  24 
Churchyard  Gate,  ii,  14 
Mantel,'  i,  23 

Old  Powder -house,  ii,  19,  20 
Tomb  of  Governor  Nott,  ii,  J 6 
William  and  Mary  College,  i,  22  ; 

2,  J8 
Wren's    Court-house,  i,  22,  23 ; 

ii,  13-14 
Wythe  House,  ii,  18 
Williamstown,  Ma-ss.     Van  Rensse- 
laer Manor  House  moved  to,  i,  14 
Willink  Family,  ii,  4 
Wilmington,     Del.      Old     Stone 

(Swedes')  Church,  i,  J7 
Winchester,  Eng.     Bay-window  at 

St.  Cross,  ii,  JOO 
Window-frame,  ii,  67 
Windows,  IV,  5,  8 

"  Palladian,    i,    5,    7,  2J  ; 

II,  20,  42,  54;    IV, 
2J;  VII,  )6 
Windows  :  — 

Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va., 

11,20 
Harwood  House,  Annapolis,  Md., 

i,  20 
Williams  House,  Bo.ston,  Mass., 
II,  J5 


Window  Tracery,  i,  13 

Winslow  House,  Plymouth, 
Mass.,  ii,  82,  84,  85  ;  VIII,  2 

Wister  House  Mantel,  German- 
town,  Pa.,  VI,  8 

Witchcraft  at  Salem,  i,  33 

Witch  House,   Salem,  Mass.,  i,  4, 

Witney,  Eng.     Tombs,    VIII,    31, 
55 
"  "        Town -hall,    ii,    86; 

VIII,  21 
Woburn,  Mass.     Count  Rumford's 

House,  i,  6,  7!  ii,  77 
Women  sent  to  the  Colonies,  ii,  31 
Wood,  Architect.     John,  ii,  94,  95 
Woodlawn,  Va.     House  of   Nellie 
Custis,  ii,  27,  48;    VI,  20,  22, 
23,  24,  25,  26 
Woolsey.     Commodore,  ii,  8 

"  House,    Sackett's   Har- 

bor, N.  Y.,  ii,  8;  III, 
25,26 
"  Lieutenant,  ii,  7 

Wottan's  Book  on  Classical  Design. 

Sir  H.,  ii,  86 
Wren.     Sir  Christopher,  i,  22,  32  ; 
ii,  13,  18,  42,   59,  84,  89,  91,  93, 
94,  105,  106 
Wren's  Daughter.     The  Church  de- 
signed by,  ii,  104 


Wren's  London  House,  ii,  104 
"       Street-plan  for  London,   ii, 
60 
Wrought  Ironwork,  S.  Carolina,  ii, 

80 
Wyanoke,  Va.,  ii,  32 
Wyat.     Sir  Francis,  ii,  32 
Wyatt.     Benj.     Architect,  i,  10 
Wyckoff   House,  Flatlands    Neck, 

L.  I.,  i,  16 
Wycombe.  See  "  High  Wycombe  " : 

"  West  Wycombe." 
Wythe  House,  Williamsburg,  ii,  18 

"       Poisoning     of      Chancellor 
George,  ii,  18 


Yeardley.     Governor,  ii,  25 

Yellow  and  White,  i,  7 

Yonkers,    N.    Y.     Philipse    Manor 

House,  i,  14:  II,  24,25,26,27, 

28,  29 
York  Buildings,  Ixmdon,  ii,  89 

"      House  destroyed,  ii,  89 
Yorktown,  Va.     Nelson  House,  ii, 

19 

-z  — 

Zion  Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  i,  17 


Explanation: —The  first  volume  contains  Parts  I-IV,  the  second  Parts  V-VIII.     The  volume   is   indicated   by  "i"  or  "  ii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face 
numerals.    The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the  Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part- 


Chronology  of  American  Buildings/ 


SEVENTEENTH    CENTURY. 

'6=3  1679  1683  ,698 

Mclntire  Garrison,  York,  Me.  J^'J"'"'""  "°""'='  ^"^'°"'  ^I^-'^^'  Jenkins    House,    Edisto     Island,         Trinity,     Old    S^^■edes,     Church, 

'<553  Sleepy    Hollow    Church,    Tarry-  ^-  *^-  Wilmington,  Del. 

Jail,  York,  Me.  town,  N.  Y. 


EIGHTEENTH    CENTURY. 

1705  1742  1759  1783 

Immanuel  Church,  New    Castle,  (Jemeinhaus,  Bethlehem,  Pa.  Vandenheuvel  House,  New  York,  Town-hall,  Newport,  R.  I. 

Del.  ,_^_l  N.  Y.  1785 

1711  I're.sbyterian     Church,      Newark,  '760  Horry  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Goose    Creek     [St.    J  a  m  e  s '  .s]  'N.J.  Christ  (Swedes)   Church,    Upper  Nichols  Stable,  Salem,  Mass. 

Church,  S.  C.  St.    John's    College,     Annapolis,  Merion,  Fa.  Russell,  Nath'l,   House,  Charlcs- 

1714  Md.                         '                     ''1763  ton,  8.  C. 

"Mulberry     Castle,"     Cooper  ,  Pompion      Hill       Chapel,      near  1786 

River,  S.  C.  '„r,iiT            >w   n         -n      d  Charleston,  S.  C.  Brown-Gammell     House,    Provi- 

,,,.,  "  Old  1  rappe,C.ollegeville,  Pa.  ,  1            r,    t 

1725  ,  '^                ^  1765  dence,  R.  I. 

Mansion      House,      Wilmington,  '74;^                           ,,     ,  ,  ,           „  Bull-Piingle    [Miles    Brewton]  1787 

N.  C.  Just  Semmary,  Bethlehem,  Pa.  House,  Charleston,  S.  C.  "  Westover,"  on  the  Jame.s,  Va. 

1726  1750  ,_5  '                       '  1789 

Trinitv  Church    Newnort    R    T  Heyward,       Nath'l,       House,  ',.',    .  .  ^,        ,      .,           1  ■      -i-  "  Concord,"  near  Natchez,  Miss, 

jiuiiiy  v^uuicii,  i\e«puri,  ix.  1.  J           '                   '                         i  Christ  Church,  /Me.xandna,  \  a.  '                              ' 

, Charleston,  S.  C.  ,.^     e^     .       ,      ,-u       i       J     .  '79° 

1727  St.    Stephens    Church,     Santee,  '  i,  ,,  ,,     .      ,.         ,,., 
St.  Bartholomew's  Church,  Phila-  '75-  S.  C.  Duncan  Hou.se,  Pans,  ky.      I  he 

delnhia    Pa  St.  Paul's  Church,  Halifax,  N.  S.  .„  Major. 

aelphia,  la.  ,„(5,S  "  Oatlands,"  Loudon  Co.,  Va. 

1728  '??■       ^J,  ,,               ,        ■  Wamboro  [St.  James's]   Church,  Count    Rumford's    House, 
"Stenton,"     near      Philadelphia,  ^"^S    Manor    Hou,se,     Jamaica,  Santee,  S.  C,  Woburn,  Mass. 

Pa.  I"  !•  Widows'  House,  Bethlehem,   Pa.  1701; 

1730  '75'  1769  "  Federal  Hill,"  Bardstown,  Ky. 

"Red    Lion  "   Tavern,    Philadel-  Moravian  Chapel,  Bethlehem,  Pa.  Pohick  Church,  Va.  "  Montpelier,"  Va. 

phia  Co.,  Pa.  1752  j--o  1796 

iy-!A  St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  "Woodlands,"  Philadelphia,  Pa.  City  Hall,  Hartford,  Conn. 

Ursuline  Convent,  New  Orleans,  ^-  C'  ly--.  '798 

la  I7C7  ..■vT     ,■     11    "                 r-i      1   ..  Massachusetts    State-house, 

'•''•  '753  "  Monticello,       near      Charlotte-  ,,                                                        ' 

jy-jC  Hite  House,  Winchester,  Va.  yiu^   Va  noston. 

i.  T>     !•    /-u       u   T-j     .        c   /-■  '  South     Building,     Chapel     Hill, 

St.  Paul  s  Church,  Ldenton,  S.  C.  1754  '774  NT                 &'             r                ' 

1737  Day,      Jo.siah,     House,      West  First  Baptist  Church,  Providence,  ,799 

"  Westover,"  on  the  James  River,  Springfield,  Ma.ss.  k.  L  Peirce,   Dan'l.  H.,  House,  Ports- 

Va.  1755  First  Presbyterian  Church,  New-  mouth    N.  H. 

1740  Old  Dutch  Church,  Halifax,  N.  S.  ark,  N.  J.  Exchange*  Savannah,  Ga. 

"Drayton    Hall,"   Ashley    River,  1758  1780  1800 

S.  C.  "Mount    Airy,"   on    the    Rappa-  Gibbes    [Drayton]     House,  St.    George's    Church,    Halifax, 

Paxtang  Church,  HarrLsburg,  Pa.  hannock,  Va.  Charleston,  S.  C.  N.  S. 

NINETEENTH   CENTURY. 

j8oi  181 1  1S18  1S28 

Government       House,      Halifax,  Province  Piuilding,  Halifax,  N.  S.  Holmes  House,  Charleston,  S.  C.  Government  House,  Fredericton, 

N.  S.  Flynn's      Presbyterian      Church,  1820  ^-  ^'• 

1802  Charleston,  S.  C.  Ancrum    House,      Charleston,  1830 

"  Ariington,"  Va.  ,815  S.  C.  De  Saussure  House,   Charieston, 

'°°3  Cainhoy    Church,    near    Charles-  t,   ,,     ,    ,,            ,,             ,,    ,.  S.  C. 

Moravian     Church,     Bethlehem,  ton,  S.  C.  Bulloch  House,  Ro.sewell,  Ga.  "  Edgewood,"     near      Edgefield, 

''3-  „           Ti            ,.              ,     r^  Hansel]  Hou.se,  Rosewell,  (Ja.  S.  C. 

Waterman       House,       Du.xbury,  Owens  House,  Savannah,  Ga.  ^^^^  "  Hermitage,   The,"    on    the    Sa- 

„      ^^^^^-  Scarborough    House,    Savannah,  St.   Mary's  Male  Academy,  Nor-  vannah  River,  Ga. 

°r-   •.     r-i        1     ^-          1     X-    T  Ga.  folk,  Va.  ,8,6 

innity  Church,  .Newark.  IS.  J.  „,,..,,.„           ^              1  Typical  House,  Charleston,  S.  C.  st    Philip's  Church    Charleston, 

1810  Telfair    Art    Gallery,    Savannah,  -"  01.   i  iiuip  >,  v.iiuicii,  v^nancMui., 

Witte  House,  Charieston,  S.  C.  Ga.  1826  S-  *-^- 

Belvedere     Farmhouse,     Cooper  1818  University     of     Virginia,     Char-  1838 

River,  S.  C.  Bulloch  House,  Savannah,  Ga.  lottesville,  Va.  Christ  Church,  Savannah,  Ga. 


1  Mentioned  in  I  'oluine  I /I  [Paris  JX-XI/.\ 


Alphabetical  Chronological  Tabulation/ 


Ancrum  House,  Charleston,  S.  C 

1S20 

Archbishop's  Palace,  New  Orleans. 

I-a..  1734 

'•  Arlington."  Va.,  1S02 

Belvedere      Farmhouse,    Cooper 

River,  iSio 

Brewton    [BuU-P  r  i  ng  le]     House, 

Charleston,  S.  C,  1765 

BulM'ringle    [Brewton]    House. 

Charleston,  S.  C,  1765 

Bulloch  House,  Rosewell,  Ga.,  i8::o 

"  '*      S  a  V  a  n  n  a  h,    Cia., 

1818 

Cainhov  Church,  near  Charleston, 

S.  C',  1S15 

Capen  House,  Binghamton,  N.  Y., 

iSio 
Christ     Church,    Alexandria,    Va., 

.767 

"  "  Savannah,      Ga., 

1S38 

"        (Swedes)     Church,    Upper 

Merion,  Pa.,  1760 

City-hall,  Hartford,  Conn.,         1796 

"  Concord,"   near    Natchez,   Miss.. 

1789 

Day     House,     West      Springfield, 

Mass.     Josiah.  I754 

De    Saussure    House,    Charleston, 

S.  C,  1830 

Drayton  Hall,  Ashley  River,  S.  C  , 

1740 

Drayton  House,  Charleston,  S.  C, 

1780 

Duncan  House,  Paris,  Kv.,        1790 

Dutch     Church,     Halifai,    N.    S., 

'755 
"  Edgewood,"  near  Edgefield,  S.  C., 

1830 
"Federal    Hill,"    Bardstown,    Ky., 

1795 


First   Baptist   Church,  Providence, 

R.I.  1774 

First     Seminary,    Bethlehem,     Pa., 

1746 

Gemeinhaus.  Bethlehem,   Pa.,    1742 

Gibbes    House,    Charleston,    S.  C, 

1780 

Goose  Creek  [St.  James's]  Church, 

1711 

Government     House,     Fredericton, 

N.  B..  1828 

Government  House,  Halifa.x,  N.  S., 

1801 
Hansell     House,     Rosewell,     Ga., 
1820 
"  Hermitage.     The,"  on  the  Savan- 
nah River,  Ga.,  1820 
Heyward,     Nath'l,    House,    Char- 
leston, S.  C,  1750 
Hite  House,  Winchester,  Va.,  1753 
Holmes  House,   Charleston,   S.  C., 
1818 
Horrj'    House,    Charleston,    S.   C, 
1785 
Immanuel    Church,    New     Castle, 
Del,,  1705 
Jail.  York,  Me.,  1653 
Jenkins     House,     Edisto      Island, 
S.  C,  1683 
King  Manor  House,  Jamaica,  L.  I., 
1750-1805 
"  Mclntire    Garrison,"    York,    Me  , 

Mansion  House,  \\  ilmington,  N.  C, 

1725 

Massachusetts  State-house,  Boston, 

1798 

"  Monticello,"  near  Charlottesville, 
Va.,  1772 

"  Montpelier,"  Va  ,  '795 

Moravian  Chapel,  Bethlehem,  Pa., 
175' 


Moravian  Church,  Bethlehem,  Pa., 

1803 
*'  Mount   Airy,"  on  the    Rappahan- 

hock,  Va  ,  1758 

"  Mulberry  Castle,"  Cooper  River, 

S.  C,  1714 

"  Oatlands,"  Loudon  Co.,  Va.,  1790 
"  Old    Trappe,"    CoUegeville,     Pa., 

1745 
Paxtang   Church,   Ilarrisburg,   Pa., 

1740 
Peirce,   D.  H.,  House,  Portsmouth, 
N.  H.,  1799 

Pohick    Church,    near    Alexandria, 
Va.,  1769 

Pompion    Hill   Chapel,  near  Char- 
leston, S.  C,  1763 
Presbyterian       Church,       Newark, 
N.  J.,  1744 
Province  Building,  Halifax,  N.  S., 
1811 
"          House,  Boston,           1679 
"  Red  Lion  "  Tavern,  Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  1730 
Rumford    House,   Woburn,   Mass., 

1790 
Ru.ssell,  Nath'l.,  House,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  1785 

St.    Bartholomew's    Church,    Phila- 
delphia, Pa.,  1727 
George's       Church,       Halifax, 
N.  S.,  1800 
John's  College,  Annapolis,  Md., 

1744 
Marv's     Male    Academy,    Nor- 

fo'lk,  Va,  1 82 5 

Michael's  Church,  Charleston, 

S.  C,  1752 

Paul's  Church,  Edenton,  N.  C., 

1736 
Paul's  Church,  Halifax,  N.  S., 

175- 


St.    PhiUp's     Church,     Charleston, 

S.  C,  1836 

"      Stephen's       Church,      Santee, 

S.  C,  1767 

Sleepv  Hollow  Church,  Tarrytown, 

N.  v.,  168- 

South  Building,  U.  of  N.  C,  Chapel 

Hill,  N.  C,  1798 

"  Stenton,"  near  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

1728 
Town-hall,  Newport,  R.  I.,  1783 
Trinity    Church,     Newark,     N.    J., 

1805 

"  "  Newport,   R.    I., 

1726 

"         [Old    .Swedes]    Church, 

Wilmington,  Del.,    1698 

Typical  House,  Charleston,  3*  C., 

1825 
University  of  Virginia,  Charlottes- 
ville, Va.,  1826 
Ursuline    Convent,    New    Orleans, 
La.,                                             1734 

Vandenheuvel   House,  New   York, 

N.  Y.,  1759 

Wamboro    [St.    James's]     Church, 

Santee,  S.  C,  1768 

Waterman  House,  Du.xbury,  Ma.ss., 

1803 

"  Westover,"  on   the  James  River, 

Va.,  1737 

"White  House,"  Washington,  D.  C, 

1818 
Widows'   House,    Bethlehem,    Pa., 

1768 
Witte    House,    Charleston,    S.    C, 

1810 
"  Woodlands,"    Philadelphia,    Pa.. 

1770 


1  Of  Buildings  mentioned  in  I  'o/iiine  JII  {Parts  IX-X//.] 


General  Index  of  Text  and  Illustrations. 


VOLUME  111. 


-A- 

Aberdeen,  Miss.,  iii,  97 

"  "       House    of    Judge 

Reuben    Davis, 
XII,  J9 
Academy,  Norfolk,  Va.     St.  Mary's 

Male,  iii,  63 
"  Acton,"  Annapolis,  Md.,  iii,  60 
Adam.     The  Brothers,  iii,  36 
Adams.    John  and  Abigail.     Room 
in  Cottage  of,   Quincy, 
Mass.,  XII,  2 
"  Susannah        Boylston, 

Mother  of  John,  iii,  133 
Admiralty  House,  Halifax,   N.   S., 

iii,  17 
Agamenticus,  later   York,  Me.,  iii, 

i'5 
Albany,  N.  Y.     Boys'  Academy  de- 
signed by  Philip  Hooker,  iii,   105 
Aldrich.     Dean,  iii,  2 
Alexandria,    Va.      Christ    Church, 
iii,     86;     XI, 
16 
"  "         Pohick  Church, 

iii,  86 
AUentown,  Pa.     Germans  at,  iii,  19 
Alexis,  Prince,  visits  Boston,  iii,  120 
AUis,      John,     Carpenter  architect, 

iii,  103,  104 
Allis's,   John,   Buildings.     List  of, 

iii,  105 
Allston.     Washington,  iii,  36,  38 

"  Mrs.  William,  iii,  38 

Altamaha  River,  Ga.,  iii,  92 
Amateur  Photographers.     Valuable 

Work  of,  iii,  124 
American  Carpentry,  iii,  11 
Ames's,  John,  Buildings.     List  of, 

iii,  105 
Ancient  Buildings.     Wm.  Morris  on 

the  Destniction  of.  iii,  123 
Ancrum  House,  Charleston,  S.  C, 

iii,  41  ;  X,  16 
Andrew,  Gov.,  and  the  Mass.  State- 
house,  iii,  123 
Annapolis.  Md.    St.  John's  College, 
iii,  112 
"  "        Harwood     House, 

iii,  iiS 
Antiquities    Shops.     The    Charles- 
ton, iii,  36 
Apthorpe  House,  New  York,  N.  Y., 

XII,  33 
Arcades  at   "  Mount   Vernon,"   iii, 
114 
"        rare  in  Colonial  Work,  iii, 
114 
Archbishop's  Palace,  New  Orleans, 

La.,  XII,  7 
"  Archdale,"  S.  C,  ii':,  57 
Arciiitf.cts  [Professional  and  Am- 
ateur] :  — 

AUis.     John,  103,  104 
Ames.     John,  iii,  105 
Banner.     Peter,  iii,  103,  105 
Benjamin.     Asher,  iii,  102,  105 
Blodgett,  iii,  107 
Brigham.     Charles,  iii,  121 


Architects  [Professional  and  Am- 
ateur] :  — 

Brown.     Joseph,  iii,  1 15 
Bulfinch.    Charles,  iii,  105,  107, 

112,  1 19,  124 
Clarissault,  iii,  104 
Cummings.     C.  A.,  iii,  119,  121 
Damon.     Capt.  Isaac,  iii,  104 
Davis.     A.  J.,  iii,  124 
Diamond,  iii,  107 
Dobie,  iii,  107 

Elderkin.     John,  iii,  103,  105 
Gibbs.     James,  iii,  79,  103 
Gibson    [Gibbs  ?J    Architect  of 

St.  Michael's,  Charleston,  iii, 

79 
Gordon.     Wm.,  iii,  40 
Greene.     John,  iii,  104,  105 
Hamilton.    Andrew, iii,  104, 105 


Harrison.     Peter,  iii,  103, 
Havard.     A.,  iii,  67 

David,  iii,  105 
James,  iii,    107, 


Philip,  iii,  105 
Stephen,  iii,  1 15 
A,  iii,  67 


Hoadley 

Hoban.     James,  iii,    107,    loS, 

109 
Hooker. 
Hopkins 
Howard. 
Hyde.     J.,  iii,  82 
Jay,  iii,  91,  97 

Johnson.     Ebenezer,  iii,  105 
Kearsley.       Dr.  John,  iii,   104, 

105,  107 
Lamphire,  iii,  107 
Latrobe.     Benj.  H.,  iii,  107 
L'Enfant.     Pierre,  iii,  24,  109 
McBean,  iii,  103,  105 
McComl).     John,  iii,   102,  104, 

105,  ro7 
Mclntire.     Samuel,  iii,  105,  107 
Mayo,  iii,  107 

McKini,  Mead  &  White,  iii,  27 
Munday.  Richard,  iii.  105,  105 
Pell.     luhvard.  iii,  lOs 


Rhoades. 
Smibert. 


Samuel,  iii,  105 
Peter,  iii,  103,  105 


Smith.     Robert,  iii,  105 
Spratz.     Wm.,  iii,  105 
Strickland.     Wm  ,  iii,  107 
Sumner.     James,  iii,  1 1  5 
Thornton.     Dr.  Wm,,  iii,  113 
Towne.     Ithiel,  iii,  107,  124 
Twelves.      Robert,  iii,  105 
Villepontoux.     F.,  iii,  67 
Woodruff.     Judah,  iii,  104,  105 
Wren.  Sir  Christopher,  iii,  18,79 

Architects.     Amateur,  iii,  97 

"  of  St.  .Stephen's,  S.  C, 

iii,  67 
Architectural  Books.     List   of,    iii, 

105 
"Arlington,"  Va.,  iii,  iio;    XII,  20 
Art  Gallery,    Savannah,   Ga.     Tel- 
fair, iii,  92 
"  Ashlands,"  near  Mobile,  Ala.,  iii, 
112;  XII.  )3 

"Ashley  Hall,"  the    Home    of  the 

Bulls,  iii,  73 
Ashley  River,  S.  C.      Drayton  Hal] 
on,  iii,  36,  55 


"  Astrudeville,"  Va.,  iii,  99 
Athens,  Ga.,  iii,  97 

"  "     House  of    Gen.  T.  R. 

R.  Cobb,  iii,  J  J8 
"     House    of     II.    W. 
Grady,  iii,  108 
Atlanta,  Ga.     The  Leydon   House, 

XII,  »8 
Attic  Wine-closets,  iii,  32,  45 
Augusta,  Ga.     "Meadow  Garden," 

iii,  J  J  I 
Autumn    Trip    to    South    Carolina, 
iii,  43 

—  B  — 

Ball     House,      Charleston.       The 

Thomas,  iii,  34,  48,  49;   X,   )3, 

)5 
Baltimore  :  — 

Mahogany  Doors,  IX,  24 

Parlor  Finish,  IX,  25 
Bank.       Providence    National,    iii, 

115;  Xil,39 
Banner,    Peter,    Architect  of    Park 

Street   Church,    Bostori,  iii,   loj, 

'°5 
Baptist  Church,  First,  Providence, 
R.  I.,  iii,  )04,  115;   XII, 
45 
"         Parsonage,  Beaufort,  S.  C, 

iii,  76;   X,  34 
"         School  -  house,       Beaufort, 
S.  C.     Old,  iii.  71 
Bardstown,    Ky.       "  Federal    Hill," 

iii,  1 13;   1  14 
Barony  oi  Nazareth,  Pa.,  iii,  20 
Barracks,  New  Orleans,  La.,    XII, 

5 
lias-reliefs     for      Robert      Morris's 

House,  iii,  24 
Bath,  luig.     House  in  Abbey  Yard, 

iii,  8 
ISattery,  Cliarleston,  S.  C.     Tlie,  iii, 
46 
"        The  Edenton  Bell,  iii,  88 
Battle  of    t!ie     "  Chesaf'eaL'c "     and 
"  Shannon^'  iii,  123 
"      Sussex,  Eng.     Cottages,  IX, 
2 

Heardsley  House,   Beaufort,    S.    C. 

Stairlanding  in  the,  iii,  77 
Beaufort,  S.  C.,  iii,  74 
Beaufort,  S.  C.  :  — 

Baptist  .School-house,  iii,  71 

"        Parsonage,  76  ;   X,  34 
Beardsley  House.     Room  in,  XI, 

22 
Brick  Tomb,  iii,  76 
College  Building,  iii,  75 
Closed-in  Verandas,  iii,  64 
Door-heads,  iii,  75 
Elliott  House,  iii,  76;  XI,  21,  22 
Fuller  House,  iii,  76;  XI,  23,  25 
Gateways  to  St.  Helena's  Churcli- 

yard,  XI,   14 
"  Mount  Bristol,"  iii,  75 
St.  Helena's  Churcli,  iii,  76;   XI, 
13 


Beaufort,  S.  C.  :  — 

Sea  Island  Hotel,  iii,  77 
Stairlanding  in  Beardsley  House, 
iii,  77 

Beauregard,  Gen.,  and  tlio  Bells  of 

St.  Paul's,  Edenton,  N.  C,  iii,  88 

"  Beauvoir,"    Biloxi,    Miss.,  iii,   99, 

III  ;  XII,  3 
Belfry  of  Moravian  Church,  Bethle- 
hem, Pa.,  iii,  20 
"      I'latform  for  Trombone-play- 
ers, iii,  20 
Bell  Battery.     The  Edenton,  iii,  88 
"  Belle    Grove,"    Iberville     Parish, 

La.,  iii,  94,  1 1 1  ;   XII,  )6 
"  Belle  Isle,"  House  of  Gen.  Marion, 

iii,  67,  68,  69 
Bellingham's,     C;ov.,    House,    Bos- 
ton, iii,  I  22 
Bells  of  St.  Michael's,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  78 
"       "      "    Michael's  smashed  by 
Federal  Troops,   iii, 
80 
"       "      "    Philip's,       Charleston, 
cast     into     Cannon, 
iii,  83 
Belvedere     Farm    House,     Cooper 
River,  S.  C,  X,  8,  9 
**  Madeira,  iii,  32 

Bemis's    House,    Charleston,   .S.   C. 

Plan  of  Dr.,  iii,  45 
Benjamin,  Asher,    Carpenter -archi- 
tect, iii,  102 
Benjamin's,  Asher,  Buildings.      List 

of,  iii,  102,  105 
Bentsville,  Va.     Old    House  at,  iii, 

109 
liergen  Homestead,  Flatbush,  L.  I., 

iii,  1 17 
P>ertram    I  louse     Veranda,     Salem, 

Mass.,  iii,  63 
Bethesda  College,  near    Savannah, 

iii.  40 
Betldeheni,  Pa.,  iii,  18 

Bethlehem,  Pa.:  — 

Choral  Festival  at,  iii,  20 
Gemeinhaus,  iii,  iS,  J  9 
Germans  at,  iii,  19 
Moravian  Buildings,  iii,  )8 
"         Chapel,  iii,  19 

Church,  iii,  )9,  20 
Trombone-players,  iii,  20 

Bilile     restored     by      Englishmen. 

Mrs.  Motte's,  iii,  48,  68 
Biloxi,   Miss.,    "  Beauvoir,"    iii,   99) 
III;   XII, 3 
"  "         settled    l)y    French 

Canadians,  iii,  99 
Binghamton,   N.   Y.       The    Capen 

House,  iii,  118;  XII,  47 
"  Black  Belt."  The,  iii,  92 
Blake   "Earthquake  Wine."     The, 

iii,  32 
Blodgett,  Architect,  iii,  107 
"  Blue  Bell  "  Tavern,  Derby,  Pa.,  iii, 
24 


ExPLANATins  :  —  The  Volume  ts  indicated  by  "  iii  "     All  ilhistralions  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numerals.     The  full-jjage  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  nuineriils  indicating  the 
Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


IV 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


"  Blueford."      Mantelpiece    at,    iii, 

69 
Board.     The  Joggling,  iii,  45 
Boardman  House,    Saugus,    Ma.<s., 

iii.  J  2 
Bohemia   Manor,    Md.      Labadists 

at,  iii.  19 
Bond-timbers,  iii.  2 
Bonfires,   an    Evening    Feature    at 

rineville.  iii,  66 
Bonnet,  Steed,  Pirate,  iii.  38 
Book.     Stuart  and  Revett's,  iii,  108 
Books   on   Architecture.      List   of, 
105 

Boston  :  — 

Bulfinch  Front.     Battle  over  the, 
iii,  1 19 
"  "  Cost  of  Restor- 

ing, iii,  1 20 
E.xchange  Coffeehouse,  iii,  i it. 
House  of  Gov.    Bellingham,    iii, 

"        "    Peter  Faneuil,  iii,  122 
"        "    Sir  Harry   Frankland, 

iii,  122 
"       Hancock,  iii,  122 
"       Province,  iii,  122 
"       of    Sir   Harry    Vane,    iii. 

Park  Street  Church,  iii,  21,  103, 

1C5;  IX,  J8 
St.  Paul's  Church,  iii,  21 
Senate  Chamber.     The    Old,  iii, 

J20;  xn,40 
State-House.     Cost  of,  iii,  1 19 
"  "  Council  -chamber, 

iii,  n9 
"  "  Doric    Hall,      iii, 

120 
"  "  Hessian  Drum  in, 

iii,  120 
"  "  See    "  Massachu- 

setts." 
"  "  Senate    Chamber, 

iii,    )20;    XH, 
40 
"  "  Washburn's      Al- 

terations of,  iii, 
121 
Boulanger,  a  favorite  Dance.     The, 

iii,  66 
Bow -windows,  Exeter,  Eng.,  iii,  6 
Boylston.     Susannah,  iii,  123 
"  Brandon,"  Va.,  iii,  60 
Brewton,    Miles,  Merchant,  iii,  36 
*'  Sir  Joshua's  Portrait  of 

Miles,  iii,  38 

"  [Bull-Priiigle]       House, 

Charleston,  S.  C,  iii, 

30,  36,  37,  38,  47.  <■'«. 

112;    X,    J8,  J9,  20, 

21,22,23,24,25,26 

*'  Slave  Quarters,  Cliaiies- 

ton,  S.  C,  iii,  37 

"  Briars,"     near      Natchez,     Miss. 

The,  iii,  62 
Brick-built.       Southern     Churches 

generally,  iii,  85 
Brick -nogged  Walls,  iii,  11 
Brickyards  at  Medford,  Mass.,  iii,  84 
Bridge-builder.     Capt.     Isaac     Da- 
mon, iii,  104 
Brigham,    Charles,   Architect,   and 

the  Mass.  State-house,  iii,  121 
Brighton,  Mass.    Shedd  House,  iii, 

>2 
British  and  the  Bells  of  St.  Mich- 
ael's, Charleston.  The,  iii, 
78 
"      and   Fort  Motte.      The,  iii, 

36,  68 
"       Headquarters  in  the  Brew- 
ton  House,  iii,  36 
Broughton's      House,      "  Mulberry 

Towers,"  iii,  73 
Brown-Gammell  House,  Provi- 
dence, R.  I.,  iii,  115;  XII,  37,  38 
Brown.  Josepli,  Architect  of  the 
First  Baptist  Church,  Providence, 
R.  I.,  iii,  104,  105,  115  j 


Brown  House.     Joseph,  Providence, 

R.  I.,  iii,  115;  XII,  39 
Brunswick,  Ga.,  iii,  92 
Bryant,  G.  J.  F.,  Architect,  and  the 

Boston  State-house,  iii,  119 
Bulfinch,  Charles,  Architect  of;  — 
Mass.  State-House,  iii, 

119,  123 
University  Hall,   Cam- 
bridge, iii,  112 
"         Front.    Cost  of  Restoring 
the,  iii,  120 
Bulfinch's,  Charles,  Buildings.     List 

of,  iii,  105 
Bull.     Col.  William,  iii,  90 

"       House  Entrance,  Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  29 
"       Plantation  Entrance,  Ashley 
River,  S.  C,  iii,  56 
BuU-Pringle     House,      Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  30,  sCi.  37,  38,  47.  6S. 
112;  X,  )8,  J9,  20,  21,  22,  23, 
24,  25,  26 
Bulloch   House,  Rosewell,  Ga.,  iii, 

96,98 
"  "         Sav  an  nah,  Ga., 

The,  iii,  91,  93, 
94,97;  XII,  9 
Bunker  Hill  Monument,  iii,  123 
"  Buniside,"    on     the     Mississippi, 

iii.  III  ;  XII,  J5 
Burning  of  the  Horry  House,  iii,39 
"        "     "    Huguenot    Church, 
Charleston,  S.  C, 
iii,  81 
"        "     "    Rotunda,      Univer- 
sity of  Va.,  iii,  27 
St.  Philip's  Church, 
Charleston,  iii,  81 
Butler    House,   on    the    Altamaha, 

Ga.     The,  iii,  93 
Butler's      Marriage     with      Fanny 

Kemble.     Pierce,  iii,  93 
Butter  Walk,  Dartmouth,  Eng.,  iii, 

4,5 
Buzzards  the  Scavengers  of  Charles- 
ton, iii,  48 


-c- 

Cabot,  George,  iii,  120 

Cacique,  iii,  88 

Cainhoy  Church,  near  Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  87;  XI,  J5 
Caledonia,  N.   Y.     Door  to    Clark 

House,  IX,  34 

Calhoun.     Grave  of  John  C,  iii.  Si 

"  Homestead,  Newnan, 

Ga,  iii,  60,  98 ;  X,  46 

Calhoun's      Place,      "Fort      Hill." 

J.  C,  iii,  95,  99 
Camden,  S.  C.     The  De  Saussure 

Homestead,  iii,  S3 
Camellia  Japonica  Tree,  at  "  Mid- 

dleton  Place,"  iii,  72 
Campbell  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Lord  William,  iii,  30,  35,  38 
Campbell's  Escape.  Lord  and  Ladv, 

iii,  38 
Cantilever  Piazzas,  iii,  1 11 
Cape  Fear  District,  N.  C,  iii,  28 
Capital  at  "  Etowah  Heights,"  Ga. 

Curious,  iii,  1 1 1 
Capitals,  iii,  23 ;  IX,  27,  29,  3  J 
"  of  Wamboro     Church. 

The  Brick,  iii.  86 
Carleton,  Sir  Guy,  and  the  Bells  of 

St.  Michael's,  Charleston,  iii,  88 
Carolina   Coffee    House,    Charles 

ton,  iii,  33 
Carpenter -architects,  iii,  102 
Carpenter  shacks.     Georgia,  iii,  92 
Carpentry  and   Georgian  Architec- 
ture, iii,  I 
"  Work  in  America,  iii,  11 

Carter's,     "King,"     House    "Oat- 
lands,"  XII,  27 
Cartersville,      (ia.       The       SprouU 

House,  near,  iii,  J  JO,  112 
"Castle,  Mulberry,"  Cooper  River, 

S.  C,  iii,  54;  X,38 


Ceilings  at   "Kenmore"   made  by 

Hessian  Prisoners,  iii,  113 
Chancel    Rail.       St.    Michael's, 

Charleston,  S.  C,  XI,  6 
Chandelier.      The    Brewton    Crys- 
tal, iii,  37 
Chapel.    Bethlehem,  Pa.,  Old  Mora- 
vian, iii,  )9 
"  Hill,  N.  C.     University  of 

North  Carolina,  iii,  112 
"  St.    John's,    New    York, 

N.  Y.,  iii,  105 
"  St.    Paul's,    New    York, 

iii,  105 
Charleston,    S.  C.     When   Settled, 
iii,  29,  89 

Charleston,  S.  C:  — 

Ancrum  House,  iii,  41  ;  X,  J6 
Antiquities  Shops,  iii,  36 
Attic  Wine<losets,  iii,  32,  45 
Ball,  Thomas,  House,  iii,  34,  48, 

49;  X,  J5 
Battery.     The,  iii,  46 
Bemis's  House.     Plan  of  Dr.,  iii, 

45 
Bull    House.     Entrance   to    the, 

iii,  29 
BuU-I'ringle    [Miles    Brewton] 

House,  iii,  30,  36,  37,  38,  47. 

68,112;  X,  J8,J9,  20,21,22, 

23,  24,  25,  26 
Buzzards,  iii,  48 

Cainhoy  Church,  iii,  87  ;  XI,  15 
Campbell  House.  The  Lord  Wm., 

iii.  30.  35.  38 
Coffee-house.    The  Old  Carolina, 

iii.  33 
College  of  Charleston,  iii,  32,  33 
(,'urfe\v-bell.     The,  iii,  44 
Custom-house.  The  New,    iii,  43 
"  The  Old,  iii,  40 

De  Saussure  House.     The  iii,  31, 

46;  X, 4 
Drayton  House,  iii,  35;  X,  J  4 
PMmonson  House,  iii,  30 
Elliott  House,  iii,  50 
Exchange,  iii,  40 
Flynn's  Presbyterian  Church,  iii. 

40;  X,31 
Funeral  Customs,  iii,  42 
Gateway.     The  Simonton,  iii,  30 
Gateways,   iii,   30,    44,   50 ;    X, 
29,30,35 
"  to      the      Edmonson 

Hou.se,  iii,  30;  X,  2, 
3 
Gibbes  House,  X,  14 
Hayne  House,  iii,  35,  36,  39 
Hayward's    House,      Judge,    iii, 

34,48;  X,  J7 
Ileyward,  Nath'l,   House,  iii,  -X/Z^ 

34;  X,  10,  11 
Holmes  House,  iii,  31 ;  X.  6 
Horry  House,  iii,  48;  X,  36 
Huguenot  Temple,  iii,  36,  40 
Ironwork,  iii,  34 
Izard  House,  iii,  38 
Janitor's      Lodge,     College      of 

Charleston,  iii,  32 
Laurens,    Henry,  House,   iii,  33, 

34 
Loundes  [Waggoner]  House,  iii, 

49 ;  X. 33 

Manigault  Gate-house,  X,  35 

"  House,  iii,  51 

Market,  iii,  t,},,  48,  49 
Mason-Smith  House,  iii,  35 
Oldest  Part  of  the  City,  iii,  32 
Pompion     Hill     Chapel     Pulpit, 

XI,  17 
Post-office,  iii,  53 
Powder     Magazine.       The     Old 

Spanish,  iii,  40 
Pumping-station.     The,  iii,  48 
Rhett  House,  iii,  38 
Russell,    Nath'l,    House,    iii,    30, 

31.  39;  X,  12 
St.  Michael's  C'hurch,  iii,    -i^t,,  43, 

47,43,78.80,81,  82;  XI,  3, 

4,  5,  6,  7,  8 
St.  Paul's  Church,  iii,  40 


Ch.\ri.eston,  S.  C.  :  — 

St.  Philip's  Church,  iii,  33,  40, 
43.  80,  82,83;  XI,  9,  10 

St.  Philip's  Church.  The  .Sec- 
ond, iii,  81 

Slave   Quarters.     The    Brewton, 

iii.  37 
Smythe,  Augustus,  House,  X,  J4 
Spanish-tiled  Roofs,  iii,  44 
Staircases,  iii,  34 
Street  Names,  iii,  44 
Sunday  Habits,  iii,  46 
Tombstones      in      St.       Philip's 

Churchyard,  iii,  35 
Tradd  House.      Robert,  iii,  t,t, 
Tumbull  House.     The  Robert  J., 

iii.  49.  53 
Type  House  Plan.     The,  iii,  31 
Typical  House,  X,  5,  27 
Veranda,  X,  27 
Veranda,  iii,  30,  62  ;  X,  27 
"        A  Modem,  iii,  57 
Waggoner  [l^oundes]  House,  iii, 

49;  X, 33 

Wine-closets.     Attic,  iii,  32,  45 
Witte  House,  iii,  41,  97;  X,  16 

Charlestown,   Mass.     A    Midwife's 
Epitaph,  iii,  1 17 

Charlottesville,  Va. :  — 

"  Monticello,"  Jefferson's  House, 

iii,  13 
Professors'    Houses,    University 

of  Va.,  iii,  25,  26,  27;    IX, 

7 
Rotunda   of    the    University   of 

Virginia,  IX,  6 

"  Cliesapeake  "  and  the  "  Shannon" 

Battle  of  the,  iii,  123 
Chester,  Eng.    Half-timber  Work, 

iii,  2 
Childs   House,   Rochester,   N.    Y., 

Jno.,  iii,  94,  no 
Chimney.     The  Outside,  iii,  51 
Chippendale  Work,  iii.  36 
Choragic  Monument  of  Lysicrates. 

Order  of  the,  iii,  1 10 
Choral  Festival  at  Bethlehem,  Pa., 

iii,  20 
Chorals    at    Salem,   N.    C,   Trom- 
bone, iii,  22 
Christ    Church,    Alexandria,    Va., 
iii,  86;  XI,  16 
"  "  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

iii,  104,  105 
"  "  Savannah,  iii,  93 

"  "  Williamsburg, 

Va.,  iii,  81 
"       (Swedes)    Church,     Upper 
Merion,  I'a.,  iii,  21 
Christian  Springs,  Pa.,  iii,  20 
Churches  generally  built  of  Brick. 
Southern,  iii,  85 

Churches:. — 

Ashfield,  Mass.,  iii,  105 
Cainhoy    Church,   near  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  iii,  87;  XI,  J5 
Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va., 
iii,  86;  XI,  16 
"  "         Cambridge, 

Mass.,  iii,  105 
"  "         Philadelphia.  Pa., 

iii,  104,  105 
Church,     Wil- 
liamsburg, Va., 
iii,  Si 
Congregational,  Farmington, 

Conn.,  iii,  105 
Episcopal,   Providence,  R.  I.,  iii, 

104,  105 
Farmington,  Conn.,  iii,  16,  104 
First  Baptist,   Providence,  R.  I., 
iii,  104,   105,   115;   XII, 
45 
"      Congregational, Providence, 

R.  I.,  iii,  104,  105 
"      New    London,    Conn.,    iii, 

'05 
"      Northampton,    Mass.,    iii, 


Explanation  :  —  The  Volume  is  indi 
Part,  and  bold-fjce  figures  showing  llic  lucal 


1  by  "  iii  "     All  i'lnstralions  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numerals.     The  full  page  plates  are  indicated  bv  Roman  numerals  indicating  the 
ion  of  [he  plate  in  ihat  Part. 


GENERAL   INDEX  OF  TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Churches  :  — 

First     Universalist,     Providence, 

R.  I.,  iii,  104,  105 
Flynn's  Presbyterian,  Cliarleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  40;  X,  3  J 
Goose  Creek,  S.  C,  iii,  86t  ^'^7 
Hadley,  Mass.,  iii,  105 
Halifax,  N.  S.     Dutcli,  iii,  J  6 
"  "        St.  George's,  iii, 

16 
"  "         St.  Paul's,  iii,  16 

Hanover    Street,  Boston,   Mass., 

iii,  105 
Hatfield,  Mass.,  iii,  105 
Huguenot    Church,    Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  40 
Immanuel,    New  Castle,  Del.,  iii. 

21 
Independent     Presbyterian,      Sa- 
vannah, Ga.,  iii,  98 
I^anca.ster,  Ma.ss.,  iii,  105 
Moravian,    Bethlehem,    Pa.,    iii, 
J9,  20 
"  Chapel,      Bethlehem, 

Pa.,  iii,  J  9  I 

"  Salem,  N.  C,  iii,  22 

Newark,  N.  J.     P'irst     Presbyter- 

ia:i,  iii,  16  ;  IX,  23 
Nev,-    North,   Boston,   Ma.ss.,  iii, 

North,  New    Haven,    Conn.,    iii, 

'•  Ware.  Mass.,  iii,  105 

Northboro,  Mass.,  iii,  105 
Old  Trappe,  Collegeville,  Pa.,  iii, 

2J 

Old  Wamboro  [St.  James's] 
Church,  Santee,  S.  C,  iii,  65, 
68,86;  XI,  \\,  \2 

Park  St.,  Boston,  Mass.,  iii,  21, 
loj,  105;  IX,  18 

Pa.xtang,  llarrisburg.  Pa.,  iii,  2j 

Pittsfteld,  Ma.ss.,  iii,  105 

Pohick,  near  Ale.xandria,  Va.,  iii, 

86 

Pompion  Hill  Chapel,  near 
Charleston,  S.  C,  iii,  87 

Prince  George's.  Winyaw,  iii,  52, 
87;  X, 40, 41 

St.  Andrew's,  on  the  Ashlev, 
S.  C,  iii,  S;;  XI.  15 

"  Bartholomew's,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa.,  iii,  104,  105 

"  Denis,  near  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  87 

"  George's,  Halifax,  N.  S.,  iii, 
14 

"       Helena's,    Beaufort,    S.     C, 

iii,  76;  XI,  J3 

"      James,  Santee,  S.  C,  iii,  48 
"       John's    Chajjel,   New    V<trk, 

N.  W.  iii,  105 
"  "  Hampton,     \'a.,     iii, 

S4 
"      lAike's,    Smithfield,    Va.,   iii. 

"       Michael's,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

3,5.  4:„47,  7''<.So,  8J,82; 

XI,3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8 

"       Paul's,  Boston,  Slass.,  iii,  21 

'*  "         Chai)el,    New    York, 

N.  v.,  iii.  105 
"  "         Charleston,  .S.  C,  iii. 

40 
"  "        F.denton,    N.    C,  iii. 

88 
Halifax,  N.  S..  iii,  16 
"       Peter's,  Isle  of   Wight.  Va.. 

iii,  87 

"  "  Philadelphia,  iii,  86 

"       Philip's,   Charleston,   S.    C, 

iii,  Vv  40.  43,  So, 

82,8i;XI,9, 10 

"  "  Charleston,    S.    C., 

The  Second,  iii, 

81 

"  ■     Stephen's,  Santee,   S.  C,  iii, 

67,85.87;   XI,  15 
Sleepy  Hollow,  Tarrvtown,  N.  V., 

iii,  21  ;   IX,  26 
South,  B(jston,  .Mass.,  iii.  105 
"         Salem,  Mass.,  ii],  105 


Churches  :  — 

Strawberry  on  the  Cooper  River, 

S.  C,  iii,  87;  XI,  )5 
Taunton,  Mass.,  iii,  105 
Trinity,     "  Old     Swedes,"      Wil- 
mington, Del.,  iii,  21  ; 
IX,  4,  5 
"  Newark,  N.   J.,  iii,  16; 

IX,  23 
'•  Newport,  R.  I.,  iii,  21  ; 

IX,  19,20,21,22 
United,  New  Haven,   Conn.,  iii, 

105 
West,  Boston,  Mass.,  iii,  105 
"        Springfield,    Mass.,    First, 
iii,  10;,  105 
Weymouth,  Mass.,  iii,  105 

Churchyard  Gates,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 
"  Gate,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

St.  Michael's,  XI,  7 
Churchyards,   New   York    City,    iii, 

"7 

Ciphers  in  Ironwork,  iii,  30 

Circular  Staircases,  iii,  49 

City-hall,  Hartford,  Conn.,  iii,  124 
"  New  York,  N.  V.,  iii,  104, 

105 

Clarissault,  Architect  of  the  Capi- 
tol at  Richmond?  iii,  104 

Clark  House  Doonvav,  Caledonia, 
N.  v.,  IX.  34 

Clarkson,    N.     V.,    Doorwav,    IX, 
33 

Classic  Revival,  The,  iii,  90,  94 

Classicism  of  Georgian  Design,  iii, 

9 
Clay.     Henry  iii,  95 
Clemson,  Calhoun's  Son-in-Law,  iii, 

,95 
"         College,  iii,  95,  99 
Climatic   Influences  affected   Colo- 
nial Detail,  iii,  64 
Clock,  IIalifa.\,  N.  S..  Town,  iii,  17 
Closets,   Charleston,    S.    C.     Attic 

Wine,  iii,  32,  45 
Cloth  Hall,  Newbury,  Eng.,  iii,  7 
Club-house,  "  Fairfield."     So.  San- 
tee Si>ortsman's,  iii,  69,  70 
Coach-house,     Providence,     R.     I. 

Rufus  Greene's,  iii,  114 
Cobb,  Athens,  Ga.      House  of  Gen. 

T.  R.  R.,  iii,  118 
Coffee-house,   Boston,    Mass.     Ex- 
change, iii,  123 
"  Charleston.     S.     C, 

The  ( )ld  Carolina, 

iii.  3.) 
Coleman  House,  Macon,  Ga.     The, 

iii,  63,  94 
Coligny's      Attempts    at    Coloniza 

tion.     Admiral,  iii,  85 
College    Building,   Beauf.)rt,    S.   C. 
Old,  iii,  75 
"  Buildings.       Colonial,     iii, 

I  12 
"  of  Charleston,  iii,  32,  33 

Collegeville,     Pa.      Old     Trappe 

Church,  iii,  21 
C<.lumbia,  Mo.      Jefferson's  Tomb- 
stone at,  iii,  25 
"  S.    C.       Hoban    designs 

the  .State-liouse  at,  iii, 
108 
Common,      l-'ortifications    on    Bos- 
ton, iii,  I  22 
Communal  Settlements  at  Ephrata, 

Pa.,  iii,  20 
(Joncord,  Mass.     Tlie  Minot  House, 

iii.  115 

"  Concord,"  near  Natchez,  Miss. ,1111, 
1         63,  112;   X,  47 
Connecticut. State-house.     The  Old, 

iii,  124 
Con\ent,    Ursuline,    New    Orleans, 

Fa.,  XII,  6 
Cooper    River,    S.    C.       Belvedere 
Farmhouse,  X,  8 
"  "      "  Mulberry    Castle," 

iii.  54' 
"  "     Strawberry    Church, 

XI,  15 


Copley.     Paintings  by  J.  S.,  iii,  32 
Coquina,  iii,  91 

"  Houses  built  of,  iii,  28 

Corbett  House,   Ipswich,  Mass.,  iii, 

12 
Corbelled-out  Upper  Stories,  iii,  3 
Cornice  in  the  Ball  House,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  X,  15 
"  Bull  -  Pringle       [Miles 
15  r  e  w  t  o  n]       House, 
Charleston,  S.   C,    X, 

22 

Cornwallis's     Headquarters,      Wil- 
mington, N.  C,  iii,  28 
Cost  of  Massachusetts  State-house, 
iii,  1 19 
"      "   Restoration  of  the  Bulfinch 

Front,  iii,  120 
"     "  St.     Michael's,     Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  80 
Cottage.     A  Sea  Island,  iii,  59 
Cotton  Belt.     The,  iii,  97 
Council     Chamber     in     Massachu- 
setts State-house.     A  Corner  of 
the,  in,  119 
Court-house,  P'airfax,  Va.,  iii.   111, 

"3 

Couper.     James  Hamilton,  iii,  93 

Cowles  House,  Farmington,  Conn., 

E  n  trance     to 

the  J.  I,.,  IX,  17 

"  "        Farmington,  C'onn. 

The  Thomas,  iii, 

103;  IX,  13,  14, 

.'5. 

Craven  Countv,  S.  C,  iii.  67 
"Crewe  Hall,"  Malvern   Hill,  Va., 

iii,  113;   XII,  22 
Crisp's    Map  of  Charleston,  S.  C, 

Edw.,  iii,  32 
"  Crowfield,"  S.  C,  iii,  73 
Crystal  Chandelier.      Tlie  Brew»ton, 

'"'  37 
Culpepper.     John  iii,  32 

Cummings,  C.    A.,   and   the   ■■  llul- 

finch  Front  "  l'"ight,  iii,  1 19 
Curfew-bell  in  Charleston,  iii,  44 
Currencv.      Ratio  of  Paper  to  Gold, 

iii,  78' 
Custom-house.     Charleston,  S.   C 
The  New,  iii,  43 
'■      Old,  i'i,  40 
Cypress.      Black,  iii.  35 

"  as   a   Building    Material, 

iii,  ('(3 

—  £>  — 

Dacre.     Captain,  iii,  123 
Dahaw  Creek,  S.  C,  iii,  85 
Dahlgren,  Gen.,  builds  "  Dunleitli," 

Miss.,  iii,  1 1 1 
Dalcho's   Descri'ption  of   St.  Micii- 

ael's,  Charleston,  iii,  80 
Dames.     Society    of    Colonial,    iii, 

Damon,  Capt.  Isaac,  Architect  and 
Engineer,  iii,  104 

Damon's,  Capt.  Isaac,  Buildings. 
List  of,  iii,  105 

Dance.     The  Houlanger,  iii,  66 

Daniel.     Landgrave,  Robert,  iii,  80 

Danvers,  Mass.  Osborn  House, 
iii,  13 

Dare,  the  First  White  Child,  Vir- 
ginia, iii.  88 

Darien,  Ga.,  iii,  92 

D.\RTMOUTH,  Eng.  :  — 

Butter  Walk.     The,  iii,  4,  5 
Doorway,  iii,  9 
House  in  Hooper  St..  iii,  4 
Davies's  Camera    Work.     Mr.,    iii. 

14 
Davis,  A.  J.,  Architect,  iii,  124 
"        House,       Aberdeen,      Miss. 
The  Judge  Reulien,   XII. 
19 
"        Jefferson,     House,      Biloxi. 
Miss.,  iii,  99,  III;   X  II,  3 
Day  House,  West  .S  p  r  i  n  g  f  i  e  1  d, 
Mass.     Josiah,  hi,  117;   XII,  2 


Deaths     on      German      Immigrant 

Ships,  iii,  18 
D'llarriette    Tombstone,    Charles- 
ton, S.  C.,  iii,  46 
De  Kalb  Monument.     The,  iii,  83 
Derby,     Pa.     "Blue-bell"    Tavern, 

iii,  24 
De     Ro.sset     House,     Wilmington, 

N.  C,  iii,  28 
De  Saussure,  iii,  67 
"  "  Gateway,  Charleston, 

S.  C.',  X.  29 
"  "  Homestead     near 

Camden,  S.   C,  iii, 

S3 
"  "  House,       Cliarleston, 

S.  C.     The,  iii,  31, 

46;  X,  4 
"  "  Slave  Quarters,  iii,  31 

Destruction  of  Ancient    Buildings. 

Wm.  Morris  on  the,  iii,  123 
Devolution  of  the  Veranda,  iii,  64 
Diamond,  Architect,  iii,  107 
Dobie,  Architect,  iii,  107 
Dome     of     Massachusetts      State- 
house.     Fireproofing  the,  iii,  119, 
121 
Doorheads,  Beaufort,  S.  C,  iii,  75 
Doorways,  iii,  9,  10 

Doorways  :  — 

Belvedere     Farmhouse,     Cooper 

River,  S.  C,  X,  9 
Benefit    St.,     Providence,    R.    I., 

XII,  36 
Bull  House,  Charleston,  S.  C,  iii, 

29 
Bull  -  Pringle     [Miles      Brewton] 

House,   Charleston,    S.  C.    X, 

24 
Clark   House,   Caledonia,   N.  \ ., 

IX,  34 

Clarkson,  N.  Y.,  IX,  33 

Cowles,  J.  L.,  House,  P'arming- 
ton,  Conn.,  IX,  17 

Dorking,  Paig.,  iii,  10 

PZconomy,  Pa.,  iii,  22 

Hayne  House,  Charleston,  ,S.  C, 
iii,  36 

Ileywood  House,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  42 

Mahogany  Doors,  Baltimore, 
Md.,  IX,  24 

Manton,  R.  I.,  XII,  36 

Naih'l  Russell  House,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  iii,  31  ;   X,  12 

Newport,  R.  I.,  IX,  28,  30,  31 

"Octagon   House,"   Washington, 

I).  C.,  IX,  32 

Philadelphia,   Pa.,   IX,  35;   XII, 

32 
.St.   Helena's    Church,     Beaufort, 

S.  C,  iii,  76 
"     Mary's  Male  Academy,  Nor- 

'folk,  Va.,  X,  37 
Stnith     Building,    Uiii\ersity     cf 
North   Carolina,    Chapel    Hill, 
N.  C,  iii,  112 
Starkweather  House,   I'awtucket, 

R.  I.,  IX,  1 
"  Stenton."  near  Philadelphia,  Pa., 

IX,  12 

Twin      Doorways,       Providence, 

R.  I.,  IX.  27' 
"Woodlands,"  Philadelphia,  Pa., 
XII,  29 
Dorchester  Heights    Fortifications, 

iii,  122 
Doric    Hall,    Massachusetts    State- 
house,  iii,  I  20 
Dorking,  Eng.      Doorway,  iii,  10 
Dormer-windows  at  Bethlehem,  Pa., 

iii,  20 
Dormers.     Pennsylvania,  iii,  106 
Drawing-room,  BuU-Pringle  House, 
Cliai"Iest(m,  S.  ('., 
X,  19,20,21,22 
"  W  i  1 1  e      House, 

C'harleston,  S.  C  , 
iii,  41 
Drayton.      John.  iii.  71 


EXPI.ANATIDN  :   —  TllO  V    hllllL" 

Part,  and  bold-face  figures  .sliowii 


s  iiulic.ilfd  by  "  iii."     All  ilUi'itraiiims  are  indicated  by  b    d-face  numerals.     The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Konian  nuincr.ils  indicating  ilie 
;  the  location  of  the  plate  in  that  fart. 


VI 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Drayton.     Capt.  Fercival,  U.  S.  N.,  j 
iii,  71  I 

"  Thomas,  iii,  71,  90  I 

"  Gen.      Thomas       S., 

C.  S.  A.,  iii.  71  1 

"  Wm.  Ilenrv.  iii,  71 

"  Hall,      Ashley     River, 

S.   C,    iii,  36, 
55.71;  X,39 
"  "         Nort  h  a  m  p  t  o  n- 

shire,  Eng.,  iii, 
"  House,  Charleston,  S.  C  , 

iii,  35;  X-  H 
"  Tomb,     '•  Magnolia     on 

the     Ashley,"    S.    C, 
XI,  20 
Drum  in  the  Massachusetts   State- 
house.     Hes.sian,  iii,  120 
Dry -dock  at   Port  Royal,  S.  C,  iii, 

75 
Dublin  Architecture  resembles  the 

Old  Colonial,  iii,  loS 
Du  Bosc,  iii,  67 
Duncan  House,  Paris,  Kv.,  iii,  JOl, 

J>3,  ir4 

"Dunleith,"  near   Natchez,    Mi.ss., ! 

iii,  94,  99,  III  ;  XII,  J4 
Dutch    Building  Material.     Impor- 
tation of.  iii,  17 
"        Church,  Halifax,  N.   S  ,  iii, 

)6 
"        Feeling  in  Kingston,  N.  Y., 

iii,  117 
"        and      German     Eighteenth- 
century  Work,  iii,  14 
"        Inn,    Kingston,  N.     Y,,   iii, 

24 
"        in    South    Carolina.      The, 
iii,  85 
Da.xbury,  Mass.     Mantel  in  Water- 
man Parlor,  iii,  108  ;   XII,  42 


-E  — 

Earthquake.     Effects     of     the 
Charleston,  iii,  47 
"  Wine.     The,  iii,  32 

Easton,  Pa.       Germans  at,  iii,  19 
Ebenezer,  S.  C.     Germans  at,  iii,  19 
Economy,  O.     Sketches  at,  IX,  3 
"  Pa.     Doorway,  iii,  22 

"  "       The  Harmonists  of, 

iii,  22 
Eden,    Governor,   and   Teach,    the 

Pirate  "  Blackbeard,"  iii,  88 
Edenton  Bell  Bat-tery.     The,  iii,  88 
N.  C.     St.  Paul's  Church, 
iii,  88 
Edgefield,     S.     C.      "  Edgewood," 

near,  iii,  112;  XII,  10,  U,  12 
"  Edgewood,"  near  Edgefield,  S.  C, 

iii,  112;  XII,  JO,  J(,  J2 
Edict  of  ?v'antes.     The,  iii,  67 
Edisto    Island,    S.    C.     The    Edw. 
Jenkins  House,    iii,  85,  89;    XI, 
1,2 
Edmonson  House,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  30 
"  Place,     Charleston, 

S.    C.     Gates   to,    iii, 
3o;X,2,3 
Eighteenth-century    Work.      Dutch 

and  German,  iii,  14 
Elderkin,    John.      Carpenter-archi- 
tect, 103 
Elderkin's,    John,    Buildings.     List 

of,  iii,  105 
"  El  Dorado,"  on  the  South  .Santee, 

iii,  36,  68;  XI,  18,  19 
Elizabeth,   N.    J.     The    Chetwood 

House,  iii,  J09 
Elliott  House,  Beaufort,   S.   C.  iii, 
-(^\  XI,  21,  22 
"         B  e  a  u  f  o  r  t  ,   S.  C. 
Stair-landing,    iii, 
77 
"  "         Charleston,     S.     C, 

iii,  50 
"  "         Charleston,     .S.     ('., 

now   a    Ptimj>ing- 
station,  iii,  4S 


Elliot  House  Staircase,  Charleston, 

S.  C.     The,  iii,  34 
English  Cottages,  IX,  2 

"        Georges.     The,  iii,  106 

"        Iron    Mills   cause    Timber 

Famine,  iii,  10 
"        Santee,  iii,  67 
Entrance    to     Edmonson     House, 

Charleston,  S.  C,  X,  2 
Ephrata,    Pa.      Communal    Settle- 
ment at,  iii,  20 
"  "        Germans  at,  iii,  19 

Episcopalians.     The  Planters  were, 

iii,  65 
Epitaph,  Charlestown,  Mass.     Curi- 
ous, iii,  1 17 
"Etowah  Heights,"  Ga.,    iii,    J  JO, 

II I 
Everett,  A.  G.,  Architect,  restores 

the  "  Bulfinch  Front,"  iii,  119 
Eutaw  Springs,  S.  C,  iii,  67 
Evolution  of  the  Wing  Pavilion,  iii, 

58 
Exchange  Building,  Savannah,  Ga., 

iii,  90;  XII,  8 

"  Coffee-house,  Boston, 

Mass.,  iii,  123 
*'  and  Custom -house, 

Charleston,  iii,  40 
"  Maritime,     Philadelphia, 

Pa.,  iii,  107 
Exeter,  Eng.     Houses  in  the  High 
.Street,  iii,  5,  6 
"        House,    on    Cooper    River. 
S.  C,  iii,  55 

—  F  — 

Fairfax  Co.   Court-house,    Fairfax, 

Va.,  iii,  J  J  J,  113 
"  ^'airfield,"  on  the   South    Santee, 

S.  C,  iii,  69,  70 
Faneuil    Hall    designed    by    Peter 

Smibert,  iii,  103 
Faneuil's    House,    Boston,    Mass. 

Peter,  iii,  1 2  2 

Farmington,  Conn. :  — 
Church  at,  iii,  16,  104,  1C5 
Gateway   to    James     P.    Cowles 

House,  IX,  J7 
Thos.    Cowles    House,   iii,    J03 ; 

IX,  J3,  )4,  )5 
Old  House,  iii,  J  J 
Fay,  Clement    K.,   and    the    "Bul- 
finch Front  "  Fight,  iii,  1 18 
"  Federal    Hill,"   Bardstown,     Ky., 

iii,  I J3,  114 
Federal  Injury  to  Charleston,  iii,  31 
"        Soldiers       in       Charleston. 
Damage  by,  iii,  48 
Fever  in  the   I.«wlands.     Intermit- 
tent, iii,  65 
Fireplace.     .See  "  Mantelpiece." 

"  Refining     Influence     of 

the,  iii,  64 

Fireplaces : — 

Brown-Gammell  House,  Provi- 
dence, R.  I.,  XII,  38 

Fuller  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C, 
XI,  24 

Hotel,  Economy,  O.,  IX,  3 
Mulberry  Castle,  Cooper    River, 
S.  C,  iii,  54 

Fires.     Two  Savannah,  iii,  90 
First    Baptist    Church,   Providence, 
R.  I.,  iii,  J04,  115;  XII,  45 
"      Church,     West     Springfield, 

Mass.,  iii,  103 
"      Presbyterian    Church,    New- 
ark, N.  J.,  iii,  16 
Flagg.     Paintings  by,  iii,  32 
Flatbush,  L.  I.    The  Bergen  House, 
iii,  1 17 
"  "  "    Van  d  e  r V  e  e  r 

H  o  u  s  e,  iii, 
116,  J24 
Flynn's   Presbyterian   Church, 

Charleston,  S.  C,  iii,  40;   X,  31 
Font    in    St.     Michael's     Church, 
Charleston,  .S.  C,  iii,  80 


Fort     Griswold,      Groton,      Conn. 

Gravestones  at,  iii,  J  J7 
"Fort   Hill,"  House    of  J.   C.  Cal- 
houn, iii,  95,  99 
"     Motte,"  S.  C,  iii,  68,  10 1 
Fortifications  about  Boston,  iii,  122 
Frankland's  House,  Boston,  Ma.ss. 

Sir  Harry,  iii,  122 
Franklin's  Estimate  of  the  German 

Population,  iii,  19 
Fredericksburg,    Va.     "  Kenmore," 

XII,  25,  26 
Fredericton,    N.    B.       Government 

House,  iii,  J 7 
French-Canadians  settle  in   Louisi- 
ana, iii,  99 
French  Massacre  at  York,  Me.,  iii, 
116 
"        Santee,  S.  C,  iii,  65 
"       Traits  extant  in  the  Santee 
River  Region,  iii,  65 
Friedensthal,  Pa.,  iii,  20 
"  Friendfield,"     near     Georgetown, 
S,  C,  iii,  5),  52 
"  Picture-paper     Par- 

lor, X,  J,  44,  45 
Frontiersmen.     German,  iii,  19 
Front     Rooms.     Southern     Guests 

must  have,  iii,  1 12 
Fuller  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C,   iii, 
76;  XI,  25 
"  "        Mantelpiece,     Beau- 

fort, S.  C,  XI,  24 
Funeral    Customs    in    Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  42 
Furniture.     Old,  iii,  36,  38 

-G~ 

Gadsden.  Grave  of  Christopher, 
iii,  80 

Gallery.     See  "  Veranda  " 

Galvanized  Iron  Capitals.  Intro- 
duction of,  iii,  98 

Gambrel  Roof  Myth.     The,  iii,  iS 

Game  in  the  French  Santee,  iii,  71 
"       "      "     Georgia,  iii,  92 

Garden  lacks  Moisture.  The  South- 
ern, iii,  76 

Gardens  at  "  Magnolia  on  the  Ash- 
ley," iii,  71 

Gate-house,  Manigault  Place, 
Charlestown,  .S,  C  ,  X,  35 

Gateways,  Charleston,  S.  C,  iii,  30, 
50;  X,  2,  3,  4,  6,  7,  J),  29,  30, 
35,37 

Gateways : — 

Brown-Gammell  House,  Provi- 
dence, R.  I.,  XII,  38 

Bull  Plantation,  Ashley  River, 
S.  C,  iii,  56 

Cowles  House,  Farmington, 
Conn  ,  iii,  J03;  IX,  J4 

De  Saussure  House,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  X,  4,  29 

Edmonson,  (Jeo.,  Place,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  iii,  30;  X,  2,3 

Heyward  Estate,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  44 

Nath'l  Heyward  Place,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  X,  Jl 

Holmes  Place,  Charleston,  S.  C, 

X,  6 

Parson's      Plantation,      Goose 

Creek,  S.  C,  iii,  55 
St.   Helena's  Churchvard,  Beau- 
fort, S.  C,  XI, '14 
"     Michael's,  Charleston,  XI,  6, 

7 
Simonton,  Charleston,   S.  C,  iii, 
30;  X,  29,  30 

Gauffre,  iii,  67 

Gemeinhaus,  Bethlehem,  Pa.,  iii,  18, 
>9 

George's,  Prince,  Church.  George- 
town, S.  C,  iii,  52,  87  ;  X,  40,  41 

Georgia  Sea  I.sland  Cottage.  A, 
iii,  58 

Georgian  Architecture  and  Car- 
pentry, iii,  I 


Georgian    Architecture     in    Que- 
bec, iii,  15 
"  Style.     The,  iii,  106 

Georgetown,  S.  C,  iii,  49 

Georgetow.n,  S.  C:  — 

"  Friendfield,"  near,  iii,  5J  ;  X, 
I,  44,  45 

Prince  George's  Church,  iii,  52, 
87;  X,  40,  41 

Pyatt  House.  The,  iii,  64 ;  X, 
41 

Tombs  in  Prince  George's  Church- 
yard, iii,  35 

German  Eighteenth-century  Work, 
iii,  14 
"        Frontiersmen,  iii,  19 
"        Immigration,  iii,  16,  18 
"        .Settlements  in  South  Caro- 
lina and  Virginia,  iii,  19 
Germantown,  Pa.,  iii,  19 

"  Quincy,  Mass.,  iii,  19 

Germans.     Franklin's   Estimate  of 

Number  of,  iii,  19 
Gerry.     Elbridge,  iii,  1 20 
Ghost  of  "  Yeaman's  Hall."     The, 

iii,  56,  73 
Gibbes    House,  Charleston,    S.  C, 

X,  J4 
Gibbs's.     Peter    Harrison   a    Pupil 

of  James,  iii,  103 
Gibbs.     Possibly   Architect    of    St. 
Michael's,  Charleston,   S.  C,  iii, 

79 
Gibson   [Gibbs  ?],   Architect  of  St. 

Michael's,  Charleston,  iii,  79 
Gilmer    House,  Savannah,  Ga  ,  iii, 

89 
"  Gloria  Dei  "  Church,  Philadelphia, 

iii,  21 
Gnadenthal,  Pa.,  iii,  20 
(iodfrey     House,      HoUingbourne, 

Kent,  Eng,,  iii,  J 
Goose  Creek,  S.  C.  Entrance  to  Par- 
son's   Planta- 
tion, iii,  55 
"       Church,   iii,   86, 
87 
Pulpit, 
X  I, 
)7 
Gordon,      Wm.,       plans      Flynn's 

Church,  Charleston,  S.  C,  iii,  40 
Gore.     Christopher,  iii,  120 
Gorges,   Sir    P'erdinando,   attempts 

to  found  a  Dynasty,  iii,  116 
Gorgiana,  Me.,  iii,  1 1 5 
Goudhurst,    Kent,  Eng.,  Doorway, 
iii,  10 
"  "  "    House  near, 

IX, 2 
Government  House,  Fredericton, 
N.     B.,    iii, 
J7 
Halifax,  N.  S, 

iii,  J  5,  17 
Gov.  Tryon's  Palace,  Wilmington, 

N.  C,  iii,  28 
Grady,     Henry     W.,      House      at 

Athens,  Ga.,  iii,  J08 
Grandpre,  Spanish  Governor,  iii.  64 
(jrave  of  J.  C.  Calhoun,  Charleston, 

iii,  81 
"  Gravel  Hill,"  Santee,  S.  C,  iii,  67 
Gravestone,  see  "  Tombstone  " 
Gravestones,  iii,  J)7 
Greek  Movement  in  the  South,  iii, 
107 
"        Revival.     The,  iii,  94,  io5 
"  "  and    Some    Other 

Things,  iii,   106 
Greene.     John,  Amateur  Architect, 

iii,  104 
Greene's  Coach-house,  Providence, 
R.  I.     Rufus,  iii,  J  J4 
"         John,  Buildings.     List  of, 
iii,  105 
Greenwood,  Ala.,  iii.  97 
"  Greenwood,"    near    Thomasville, 
Ga.,  XII,  3 


Explanation  ;  —  The  Volume  is  indicated  by"iii."    All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numerals.     The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicatitig  the 
Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  localioii  of  the  plate  in  that  Part. 


GENERAL   INDEX  OE   TEXT  AND   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Vll 


Gioton,  Conn,     (iravestones  in,  iii, 

1)7 
Guest-rooms.      Front    Rooms    for 

Southern,  iii,  1 12 
Gunston  ilall,  on  the  Potomac,  iii, 

114 
Guillard.     Capt.,  iii,  67 

-H  — 

Hale,  Rev.  E.  E.,  on  proposed  De- 
struction of  the  "  Bulfinch  Front," 
Boston,  Mass.,  iii,  120 

Half-timbering,  iii,  2 

H.\LIFAX,  N.  S. 

Admiralty  House,  iii,  17 
Dutch  Church  at,  iii,  )6 
Government  House,  iii,  JSj  17 
Old  Town  Clock,  iii,  J  7 
Province  Building,  iii,  J  7 
St.  George's  Church,  iii,  J4,  16 
**    Paul's  Church,  iii,  J6 
Swell  Fronts,  iii,  17 

"Hall,  Drayton,"  on  the  Ashley 
River,  S.  C,  iii,  36,  55 

Hamilton,  Andrew,  Architect,  iii, 
104,  105 

Hamilton's  House,  "  Woodlands," 
Philadelphia,  Pa.  William,  XH, 
J,  28,  29,  30 

"  Hampton,"  on  the  South  Santee, 
iii,  66,  67,  68,  69 ; 
XI,  J9 
"  Gen.  Marion's  Escape 

from,  iii,  39 

Hampton,  Va.  St.  John's  Church, 
iii,  84,  85 

Hampton's  great  Fortune.  Gen. 
Wade,  iii,  42 

Hancock  House,  Boston,  Mass.,  iii, 

Hanover,  Va.,  Court-house,  iii,  113 
Hansell  House,   Rosewell,  Ga.,  iii, 

96,98 
Harmonists  of  Economy,  Pa.     The, 

iii,  22 
Harrisburg,  Pa.     Paxtang  Church, 

iii,  23 
Harrison's,  Peter,  Buildings.      List 

of,  iii,  105 
Hartford,  Conn.     City-hall,  iii,  124 
Harwood  House,  Annapolis,    Md., 

iii,  118 
Havard,     A.,      Architect      of      St. 

Stephen's,  Santee,  iii,  67 
Haydel's  "  Home  Place,"  St.  Char- 
les Parish,  La.,  iii,  iii  ;  XH,  4 
"Hayes,"   near    Edenton,    N.    C, 

iii,  88 
Hayne   House,   Charleston,   S.   C, 

iii.  35.  36,  39 
"        the  Martyr.     Col.  Isaac,  iii, 
40 
Haywood  [Lynch]  Mantel,  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  X,  34 
Hepworth.     Grave  of  Chief  Justice 

"Thomas,  iii,  80 
"Hermitage.     The"  Nashville, 
Tenn.,     iii, 
95,         109, 
XH,    44 
"  "       on  the  Savan- 

nah   River, 
Ga.,  iii,  91, 
92.         97 ! 
XII,  43,  44 
Hessian    Drum    in    Ma.s.sachusetts 
State-house,  iii,  120 
"  Prisoners  make   the  Ceil- 

ings at  "  Kenmore,"  iii, 
1 12 
Heyward  Estate,  Charleston,  S.  C, 
Entrance  to,  iii,  44 
"        Nath'l.,  House,   Charles- 
ton,   S.   C,  iii,  :sT„  34; 

X, 10,  n 

Heyward's  Drawing-room,  Charles- 
ton,    .S.     C.     Judge, 
X,  17 
"  House,    Charleston, 

S.    C,    Judge    Thos. 
iii,  34,  48 


Heywood  House,  Charleston,  S.  C, 

Entrance  to,  iii,  42 
High  Hills  of  the  Santee  :  — 

The,  iii,  67 

"Millford,"  in  the,  XII,  J 7 
Hingham,  Mass.     The  "  Old  Ship," 

iii,  81 
Hite  House,   Winchester,    Va.,  iii, 

n3, 114 

Hoadley,  David,  Designer  of  North 
Church,  New  Haven,  Conn.,  iii, 
105 
Hoban,    James,    Architect    of    the 
"  White    House,"    iii,    107,    108, 
109 
Holland.     Building     Material     im- 
ported from,  iii.  17 
Ilollingbourne,    Kent,    Eng.     God- 
frey House,  iii,  J,  2 
Holmes   House,  Charleston,  S.  C, 
iii,  31  ;  X,  6 
"         James  Gadsden,  Sr.,  iii,  31 
"  Home  Place,"  St.  Charles  Parish, 

La.,  iii,  iii;  XII,  4 
"  Homewood,"  Baltimore,  Md.,  iii, 

60 
Hooker,  PhiHp,  Architect  of  Boys' 
Academy,  Albany,  N,  Y.,  iii,  105 
"  Hopeton  House,"  on  the  Altama- 

ha,  Ga.,  iii,  93 
Hopkins,    Stephen,    Architect,    iii, 

"5 
Horry   House,    Charleston,    S.    C, 
iii,  48;  X,  36 
"  "  Burning  of  the,  iii, 

39 
"      Mrs.  Daniel,  iii,  39,  69 
"       Slave  Quarters,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  39 
Hotel,  Beaufort,  S.  C.     Sea  Island, 
iii,  77 
"       Nottoway      Co.,     Court 
House,  Va.,  iii,  J  09 
Houmas  House,  on  the  Mississippi, 

iii,  94 
House.     Typical  Charleston,  S.  C, 

X,5 
Huger,  iii,  67 

Huguenot  Immigrants.     The   first, 
iii,  66 
"  Names,  iii,  53 

"  I'lanters,  iii,  65 

"  Temple,     Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  36,  40 
Huguenots   and  the   Parish  of  St. 
Denis,  S.  C,  iii,  87 
"  were  poor.  The  French 

iii,  90 
Hull,    Com.,   visits    Boston    State- 
house,  iii,  123 
Hutchinson's,  Gov.,  House,  Boston, 

Mass.,  iii,  122 
Hyde,  J.,  Architect  of  St.  Philip's 
(Third)  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


—  I  — 

Iberville      Parish,     La.,      "Belle 

Grove,"  iii,  94,  1 1 1 ;  XII,  t6 
Immanuel    Church,     New    Castle, 

Del.,  iii,  21 
Imported    Materials.      The    Matter 

of,  iii,  84 
Independence    Hall,    Philadelphia, 

Pa.,  iii,  104,  105 
Independent    Presbyterian   Church, 

Savannah,  Ga.,  iii,  98 
Indian  Massacre  at  York,  Me.,  iii, 
116 

"       Warfare    and    overhanging 
Stories,  iii,  1 1 
Indiana  State-house,  iii,  124 
Indigo.      The    First    So.    Carolina, 

iii,  56 
"  Inglehurst,"  Macon,  Ga.,  iii,   112; 

XII,  n 

Inn,  Kingston,  N.  Y.      Dutch,  iii,  24 

"    See  "  Tavern  " 
Inns.      Pennsylvania,  iii,  24 
Ipswich,  Mass.     Corbett    House, 
iii,  J2 


Ipswich,  Ma.ss.,  Saltonstall  House, 
iii,  12 
"  "  Whipple      House, 

iii,  I  ! 
Iredell  Family.     The,  iii,  88 
Iron  Gates,   St.    Michael's    ('hurch, 
Charleston,  S.  C,  XI,  6 
"     Mills    cause    Timber     Panic. 
English,  iii,  10 
Ironwork.     Wrought,    iii,    34,    47, 

109;  X,  7 
Ironworker.    Werner,  a  Charleston, 

iii,  30 
Island   Cottage.     Georgia  Sea,   iii, 

58,59 
"       S.  C.     Edi.sto,  iii,  85,  89 
Isle  of  Wight,  Va.      St.   Peter's,  iii, 

Italian  Mural  Decorations,  iii,  ^(> 
Izard  House,  Charleston,  iii,   -^'^^  38 


-J 


•  White  House.' 


Jackson  and  the 

Andrew,  iii,  95 
Jackson's     House     at      Nashville. 

"The   Hermitage,"   iii,   95,    109; 

XII,  44 
Jail,  York,  Me.     Old,  iii,  J  J  5,  116 
Jamaica,   L.  I.     The   King  Manor 

House,  iii,  13  ;  IX,  J 6 
Jardella.      Sculptor,    Giuseppe,  iii, 

24 
Jay,  an  English  Architect  in  Savan- 
nah, iii,  89,  91 
Jefferson,    I'homas,    Amateur    Ar- 
chitect, iii,  103,  107 
"  Founder  of  the  Univer- 

sity of  Va.,  iii,  25 
Jefferson's  House  "  Monticello,"  iii, 
13,  27,   104,  115;  IX, 
8,9,  )0,  J I 
"  Tombstone.       Thomas, 

iii,  25 
Jenkins  House,  Edisto  Island,  S.  C. 

TheEdw.,  111,85,89;  XI,  J,  2 
Jerked  Meat,  iii,  67 
Jockey  Club  Ball.     The,  iii,  60 

"  "     Madeira,  iii,  32 

Joggling  Board.     The,  iii,  45 

Johnson,    Ebenezer,     Designer     of 

United   Church,  New 

Haven,  Conn.,  iii,  105 

"  Grave   of    Gov.    Robert, 

iii,  80 
"  Grave  of  William,  iii,  80 

"  Rev.  John,  iii,  82 

"  Journal  of  Life  on  a  Georgia  Plan- 
tation," iii,  93 
Justi,  A.,  Ironworker,  iii,  79 

—  K  — 

Kearsley,  Dr.  John,   Architect,   iii, 

104,  105,  107 
Kemble's  Marriage  with  Pierce  But- 
ler.    Fanny,  iii,  93 
"  Kenmore,"    Fredericksburg,    Va., 
iii,   113;    XII,   25, 
26 
"  much    like    "  Wood- 

lawn,"  iii,  1 13 
King  Manor  House,  Jamaica,  L.  L, 
iii,  13;  IX,  16 
"      House.     Rufus,  iii,  1 1 
"  King"  Roger  Moore,  iii,  28 
Kingston,  N.  Y.     Dutch  Feeling  in, 
iii,  117 
"  "         Old    Dutch    Inn, 

iii,  24 
"  "  The  Ten   Broeck 

House,  iii,  1 17 
"  "         Van     Steenbergh 

House,  iii,  1 17 
Kitchens.     Outside,  iii,  45 
Kneelers,  iii,  7 

Knox      Headquarters,     Newburgh, 
N.  Y.     Gen.,  iii,  20 


—  L,— 

Labadist    Settlement 
Manor,  Md.,  iii,  19 


at     Bohemia 


Lafayette  visits  the   Massachusetts 

State-house,  iii,  120,  123 
La  Grange,  Cia.,  iii,  97 
Lamphire,  Architect,  iii,  107 
Lancaster,  Pa.     Germans  at,  iii,  19 
Lane's  Junction,  S.  C,  iii,  50 
Latrobe,    Benjamin    II.,   Architect, 

iii,  107 
Laurens,  iii,  67 

"         House,  Charleston,   ,S.  C, 

iii.  Vo^  34 
"         Minister     to     Holland. 
Henry,  iii,  33 
"Lausanne,"      the      De      Saussure 

Homestead,  S.  C,  iii,  83 
Lawrence,     L.    I.       "  Rock    Ilall," 

XII,  33 

Legare,  iii,  67 

Lee,  Col.  Henry,    and    the  Massa- 
chusetts State-house,  iii,  120,  122 
Lee's,  Gen.  R.  E.,  House,  "Arling- 
ton," iii,  no;  XII,  20 
Leigh.      Grave    of    Chief    Justice 

Peter,  iii,  80 
Leinster   House,    Dublin,    Ireland, 

iii,  1 16 
L'Enfant.      Pierre,    Architect,    iii, 
109 
"  Designer      of     Robert 

Morris's    House,    iii, 

24 
"  Les  Chenes,"  iii,  99 
Lewis,  Lawrence,  iii,  113 
Lewis's,  Col. Fielding,  House  "  Ken- 
more," iii,  113;  XII,  25,  26 
Leydon  House,  Atlanta,  Ga.,  XII, 

13 
Lillybridge  House,  Savannah,  Ga., 

X,  32 
LinwoodjGa.  The  Shepherd  House, 

iii,  60 
Lititz,  Pa.     Germans  at,  iii,  19 
Live  Oak.     A  Giant,  iii,  73 
Liverpool,  now  Wilmington,  N.  C, 

iii,  28 
Lodge,  Charleston,  S.  C.     College 

of  Charleston  Ciate,  iii,  32 
Logan,  Grave  of  John,  iii,  80 

"       James,    Secretary    to    Wm. 

Penn,  iii,  22 
"       House,  "  Stenton,"    James, 
iii,  2  2 
Long,  Gov.,  and  the  Massachusetts 

State-house,  iii,  123 
Longfellow  House  Verandas.     The, 

iii,  62 
Lorentz,     a    Charleston    Silk  -mer- 
chant, iii,  30 
Lorio,    George,    House  of,    in    St. 

Charles  Parish,  La.,  XI 1,  5 
"  Lower  Brandon,"  Va.,  iii,  60 

"  "  Carpenter's 

Capitals     at, 
iii,  62 
Loundes.     Grave  of  Gov.  Rawlans, 
iii.  So 
"  [Waggoner]      House, 

Charleston,  S.  C,  iii, 
49 ;  X, 33 
Lutheran    Settlement,    Waldoboro, 
Me.,  iii,  19 

-M- 

McAlpin  House,  "  The  Hermitage," 
on  tlie  Savannah 
River,  (ia.,  iii, 
97,  109;  XII, 
43,44 
"  "       Savannah,  Ga., 

iii,  95,  96 
McBean,    Architect    of    .St.     Paul's 
Chapel,   New    York,   N.   \ .,  iii, 
103,  105 
McComb,  Architect    of  N.  'S  .  City- 
hall,  John,  iii,  102,  104,  105,  107 
"Mclntire    Garrison,"    'i'ork.    Me., 

iii,  1  15,  li<J 
Mclntire,      Samuel,     Architect     of 
South   Church,  Salem,  Mass.,  iii, 
105,  107 


Explanation  :  —The  Vohime  is  indicated  by  "iii."    All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numerals. 
Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  the  plate  in  ihat  Part. 


The  full-page  plates  ar«  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


McKim.  Mead  &  White,  Architects, 

iii.  z~ 
Macon,  Ga.     The  Coleman  House, 
iii,  63,  04 
"      "  Inglehnist,"       near, 
iii';  112;  XU,  Jl 
i[adeira  Wines,  iii,  32 
Madison,  Ga.     The  Safford  Home- 
stead, near,  XH,  J 8 
"         "  Montpelier,"Va.    Home 
of,  James,  XH,  2( 
Magazine,  Charleston,   S.  C.     The 
Spanish    Powder,    iii, 
40 
"  Somen'ille,  Mass.,  Tow- 

der.  iii,  J06 
'•  Magnolia,  on  the  Aslilev,''  iii,  71, 

72 
Malbone,  iii,  36,  38 
Male   Academy,  Norfolk,  Va.     St. 

Marv's,  iii.  65 
Malvern  Hill.  Va.,  '•  Crewe   Hall," 

iii.  113;  XH,  22 
Manigault,  iii,  67 

"  Dr.  Gabriel,  iii,  32 

"  Gate-house,  Charleston, 

S.  C„  X,  35 
"  House,   Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  51 
Manning.     Governor,  iii,  loi 

•'  Homestead,  High   Hills 

of    Santee,   S.    C,  iii, 
100;  XH,  J7 
Manor  House,  Jamaica,  L.  I.     The 

King,  iii,  13;   IX,  J 6 
Mansion  House,  Wilmington,  N.  C, 
iii,  28 

M.\NTEI,I'IF,CE  : 

Ball   House,    Charleston,    S.    C, 

X,  )3 
Baltimore,  Md.,  IX,  25 
Baptist   Parsonage,   Beaufort. 

S.  C,  X,  34 
"  Belvedere,"  Cooper  River,  S.  C, 

X,  8 
"  Blueford."  iii,  69 
BuU-Pringle    [Miles     Brewton] 

House,    Charleston.  S.  C,   X, 

2J 

Cowles  House,  Farming  ton. 
Conn.,  IX,  )5 

Fuller-house  Dining-room,  Beau- 
fort, S.  C,  XI,24 

"  Hampton,"  on  the  Santee,  S.  C. 
Parlor,  iii,  67 

Haywood  [Lynch]  House,  Char- 
leston, S.  C.,  X,  34 

"Prospect  Hill,"  W  ace  am  aw 
River,  S.  C,  X,  43 

Waterman  Parlor,  D  u  x  b  u  r  y, 
Mass.,  iii,  108;  XII,  42 

Manton,  R.  I.,  Doorway,  XII,  36 
Marion's  Escape  from  "  Hampton." 
Gen.,  iii,  39 
"  House,  "  Belle  Isle."  Gen. 

iii,  67,  68,  69 
Maritime    E.xchange,    Philadelphia, 

Pa.,  iii,  J07 
Market,  Charleston,   S.   C,  iii,  y^, 

4H,  49 
Market-house,    Providence,    R.     I., 

designed  by  Jos.  Brown,  iii,  115 
Marmillion     Place,     Parish    of    St. 

John  the  Baptist,  La.,  XII,  4 
Martvr  Worthing,  Hants,  Eng.,  iii, 

3  ' 

Mason,  Geo.  C,  Architect,  iii,  21       j 
Mason -Smith  Houses,    Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  35  , 

Massachusetts  Institute  of  Tech-| 
nology.     Drawings  made  by  Stu- 
dents of,  iii,  1 24  I 

Mass.\chi;setts  St.\tf,-hoi:sk  :  ^ 
Andrew's,  Gov.,  Work  in   the,  iii, 

Brigham's  v\nne.x  to,  iii,  121 
liryant's  Addition  to,  iii,  119 
Bulfiiich  appointed  Architect,  iii, 
119 


M.\SSAl'lHSKl-fS  ST.Vl'E-HOfSK  : 

Bullinch  Front.     Efforts   to    pre- 
serve, iii,  1 18, 
119 
"  "  B  e  f  o  r  e      and 

after      Resto- 
ration,     XII, 
4) 
Cost  of,  iii,  1 19 
"      "    Restoration  of  the  "  Bul- 
finch  P'ront,"  iii,  120 
Council  Chamber.     A  Corner  of 

the,  iii,  J  19 
Dome.      P'ireproofing  the,  iii,  1 19, 

121 

Doric    Hall.     Webster's    Speech 

in,  iii,  120 
Everett,  A.  G.,  restores  the  Bul- 

finch  Front,  iii,  1 1 9 
Long,  Gov.,  and  the,  iii.  123 
Senate  Chamber.     Ends  of   old, 

iii,  120;  XII.  40 
Washburn's    Alterations    in,    iii, 

119,  121 

Massacre  at  York,  Me.,  iii,  116 
••  J/(;)'//c';i'tv'j"     Mate,     I'lymouth, 
Mass.     Gravestone    of   the,   iii, 

117 

Mayo,  Architect,  iii,  107 

Mazycks,  iii,  67 

"Meadow  Garden,"  near  Augusta, 

Ga.,  iii.  111 
Medford,  Mass.,  Brickyards,  iii,  84 
"  Medvvay,"   House   of    Landgrave 

Thomas  Smith,  iii,  73 
Men  who   designed   the  Old   Colo- 
nial BuilcUngs,  iii,  102 
Michau.x,  Land-scape-gardener  lays 

out  "Middleton  Place,"  iii,  72 

Middleton.      Mr.     Wm.    and     the 

Queen's    Gardener, 

iii,  72 

"  Place,  on  the  Ashley 

River,  S.  C,  iii,  55, 

72 
"  Tomb,  Ashley  River, 

S.  C.     The,  XI,  20 
Midwife's  Epitaph.     A,  iii,  1 17 
"  Milford,"    the    Instate    of    Gen. 

Moultrie,  iii,  67 
"Millford,"   in    the    High    Hills    of 
Santee,  S.  C,  iii,  100;  XII,  J7 
Mills-Ward   House,   Salem,  Mass., 

iii,  13 
Minot  House,  Concord,  Mass.,  iii, 

115 
Mint,    Philadelphia,    Pa.,    designed 

by  Strickland,  iii,  107 
Minus  House,  Savannah,  Ga.     The, 

iii,  92 
"  Mirror  of  Architecture"  iii,  6 
Mobile,    Ala.       "  Ashlands,"    near, 

iii,  112;  XII,  13 
Monastery   at    Quincy,    Pa.     Snow 

Hill,  iii,  22 
Money.     Proclamation,  iii,  78 
Monograms  in  Ironwork,  iii,  30 
"  Monmouth,"  near  Natchez,  Miss., 

XII,  14 
Monroe  visits    Boston.     President, 

iii,  120,  123 
"  Montebello,"  near  Natchez,  Miss., 

iii,  99,  III  ;   XII.  20 
"  Monticello,"  near  Charlottesville, 
Va.,  iii,  13,  27,  104,  115;   IX,  8, 
9,  10,  1 1 
"Montpelier,"  Va.,  iii,  115  ;  XII,  21 
"  d  e  s  i  g  n  e  d    by    Dr. 

Thornton,  iii,  115 
Monument.     Bunker  Hill,  iii,  123 

"  What  is  a,  iii,  122,  123 

Moore.     Gov.  James,  iii,  28 

"         "  King"  Roger,  iii,  28 
Moravian  l^uildings,  Bethlehem, 
Pa.,  iii,  18 
"         Church,  Bethlehem,  Pa., 
iii,  19,  20 
Salem,      N.     C, 
iii,  22 
"  Settlements,  iii,  20 

Morgan,     (jen.,  iii,  67 


Morris.      Details    from    House    of 
Robert,  iii.  23 
"  Wm.,  on  the  Destruction 

of  Ancient  Buildings,  iii, 

Morris's  House  designed    by  I^'En- 

fant,  iii,  24 
Motte    Bible   restored    by   English- 
men.    The,  iii,  48,  68 
"       Fort,  iii,  36,  68,  101 
"       Grave  of  Col.  Isaac,  iii,  80 
"  "       "  Rebecca,  iii,  80 

"       Mrs.  Rebecca  Brewton,  iii. 

Moultrie's  Estate,  "  Milford."  Gen., 
iii,  67 

"Mount  Airy,''  oit  the  Rappahan- 
nock, Va.,  iii,  114;  XII,  22,  23 

"Mount  Bristol,"  Beaufort,  S.  C, 
iii,  75 

"  Mount  Vernon."     Arcades  at,  iii. 

114 
"  "  Stables,  iii,  1 1  5 

"  "  Veranda  at,  iii, 

62 
"Mulberry  Castle,"  Cooper  River, 

S.  C,  iii,  54  ;  X,  38 
"  Mulberry  Towers,"  Home  of  the 

Broughtons,  iii,  73 
Munday,     Richard,     Architect     of 
Newi)ort  Town -hall,  iii,  103,  105 
Mural  Decorations  imported   from 

Italy,  iii,  36 
Murray  on   I'lantation  Life.     Hon. 
Amelia,  iii,  93 

-N- 

Nantes.     The  Edict  of,  iii,  67 
Nashville,    Tenn.      "The    Hermit- 
age," iii,  109 ; 
XII,  44 
"  "  House   of  Jas. 

K.   Polk,    iii, 
109;  XII,  43 
The  P,riars,"  near, 
iii,  62 
"  "        "  Concord,"     near, 

iii,  63,  112  ;   X, 
47 
"  "         "  Dunleith,"    near, 

iii,  94,  99,  III; 
XH,   14 
"  "        "  Monmouth  "  near, 

XII,  14 
"  "        "  Montebello,"  near, 

iii,     99,      III; 
XII,  20 
"  "         Settled  in  1720,  iii, 

99 
"Windy    Hill," 
near,  XII,  19 
Naval    Asylum,   Philadelphia,    Pa., 

designed  by  Strickland,  iii,  107 
Nazareth  Hall,  iii,  20 

"  Pa.     Barony  of,  iii,  20 

Negro  School  now  uses  the  Scarbor- 
ough House,  Savannah,  iii,  91 
Newark,  N.   J.,   P'irst  Presbyterian 
Church,   iii,    16, 
IX,  23 
"  "       Trinity  Church,  iii, 

16,  IX,  23 
C.     Gov.    Tryon's 


Natchez,  Miss. 


New   Berne,   N 

Palace,  iii,  23,  28 
Newburgh,    N.     Y.     Gen.    Knox's 

Headquarters,  iii.  20 
Newbury,  ling.     Cloth  Hall,  iii.  7 
New    Castle,    Del.       I  m  m  a  n  u  e  1 

Church,  iii,  21 
New     Haven,    Conn.    State-house 

designed  by  Ithiel  Towne,  iii,  124 
"  Newlanders."     The,  iii,  18 
Newnan,     Ga.       Calhoun     Home- 
stead, iii,  60,  98  ;   X,  46 
New  Orleans,  La.  A  r  c  h  b  i  s  h  o  p's 
Palace,  XII,  7 

"  "  "     Old  Barracks, 

XII,  5 

"  "  "     Ursuline      C  o  n- 

vent,  XII,  6 


New  Orleans,  La.    .Settlement  of,  iii, 

89 
Newport,  R.  I.      Doorways,  IX,  28, 
29,  30,  31 
"  "       Town-hall,  iii,   103 

"  "        Trinity  Church,  iii, 

21;  IX,  20,  21, 
22 
Newton    Abbott,   Eng.     Doorway, 

iii,  9 
New  York,  N.  Y:  — 

i      Apthorpe  House,  XII,  33 
Churchyards,  iii,  117 
City-hall,  iii,  102,  104,  105 
Old  House  in  Park  Ave.,  iii,  61 
St.  John's  Chapel,  iii,  105 
"    Paul's  Chapel,  iii,  105 
Vandenheuvel  House,  iii,  17 

\  Nichols    Stable-yard,     Providence, 

R.  I.,  iii,  114 

Nicholsoir      House,      Philadelphia, 

Pa.,    designed    by    L'Enfant,   iii, 

I       109 

Norfolk,  Va.     Door  to   St.  Mary's 

Male  Academy,  iii,  63;  X,  37 
North  Carolina.     The  German  Set- 
tlements in,  iii, 
22 
"  "  State  House,  de- 

signed by  Ithiel 
Towne,  iii,  107, 
124 
Nottoway    Co.  Court  House,  Va., 
Old  Hotel,  iii,  )09 

-o— 

"  Oak  Tree  "  Tavern,  Montgomery 

Co.,  Pa.,  iii,  24 
"  Oakes.     The,"  near  Goose  Creek 

Church,  S.  C,  iii,  73 
"  Oatlands,"  Loudon  Co.,  Va.,  XII, 

27 
"  Octagon  House  "  Doorsvay,  Was.- 

ington,  D.  C.  IX,  32 
Oglethorpe    Lands    at    Yamacraw, 

Ga.,  iii,  89 
"  Old  .Ship."  Hingham,  Mass.,  iii,  81 
"      Swedes  Church,  Wilmington, 
Del.,  iii,  21;  IX,  4,  5 
"  Old  Trappe"  Church,  CoUegeville, 

Pa.,  iii,  21 
Orangeburg,  S.  C.     The   Germans 

at,  iii,  19,  88 
Orange  Quarter,  S.  C,  iii,  87 
Order  of  the  Choragic     Monument 
of  Lysicrates,  iii,  1 10 
"      "      "    Temple  of  the  Winds, 
iii,  109 
Organ    in     St.    Michael's    Church, 

Charleston,  iii,  46 
Ort<m      I'lantation,      Wilmhigton, 

N.  C,  iii,  28 
Osborn  House,   Danvers,  Mass.,  iii, 

13 
Oversailing  Stories,  iii,  3,  11 
Owens  House,  Savannah,  Ga.    The, 
iii,  91.  92 

—  P  — 

Palace,  Archbishop's,  New  Orleans, 
La.,  XII,  7 
"        New    Berne,    N.    C,    Gov. 
Tryon's,  iii,  23,  28 
Paper   Money   in    South    Carolina, 

Early,  iii,  78 
Paris,    Ky.       The     Maj.     Duncan 

House,  iii,  101,  1 13,  114 
Parish,   St.    Charles,   La.     "  Home 
Place,"  iii,  in;  XII,  5 
"        St.  Charles,  La.    House  of 

George  Lorio,  XII.  5 
"        St.  James's.  S.  C,  iii,  67 
"        St.  John  the   Baptist,    La. 
Marmillion  House,  XII, 
4 

St.  John's,  S.  C,  iii,  67 
"       St.  Stephens.  S.  C,  iii,  67 
Parishes.     So.  CaroHna   divided 
into,  iii,  87 


ExiM.AN  \TinN  :  —  Tlie  Vftlume  is  iiulicated  by  "  il 
Part,  and  buld-facc  figures  sliuwing  the:  lixjaiion  uf  tli 


."     All  illuslmiirms  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numerals.     The  fuU-liage  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the 
:  plale  m  tli.u  i'art. 


GENERAL   INDEX  OF  TEXT  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


IX 


Park    Ave.     House,     New     York, 
N.  Y.,  iii,6J 

"      St.   Church,    Boston,    Mass., 
iii,  21,  103,  105;  IX,  J8 
Parsonage,  Beaufort,  S.  C,  Baptist, 

iii,  76 
Parson's  Plantation.     Entrance    to 

Goose  Creek,  S.  C,  iii,  55 
Pastorius,  iii,  19 

Patroon   of   the   Manor  of   Tarry- 
town,  iii,  21 
Pawtucket,      R.    I.      Entrance    to 

Starkweather  House,  IX,  \ 
Pa.xtang  Church,    Harrisburg,  Pa., 

iii,  23 
Peale's  Portrait  of-  Washington  at 

"  Lausanne,"  iii,  83 
Peirce,  D.  H.,  House,  Portsmouth, 

N.  H.,  iii,  J2J 
Pell,  Edward,  Architect  of  Hanover 

St.   Church,    Boston,    Mass.,   iii, 

Penn  and  the  German  Immigration. 
\Vm.,  iii,  18 
"     Wm.,  a  Protector  of  Andrew 
Hamilton,  iii,  104 
Pennsylvania  Architecture  affected 
by     Welsh     Influ- 
ence, iii,  106 
"  Dutch,  iii,  17 

"  German    Settlements 

in,  iii,  19 
"  and  the  German  Im- 

migrants, iii,  18 
Percy,  Rev.  Dr.,  Vicar  of  St.  Paul's, 

Radchffeboro,  iii,  40 
Pew  House,  Madison,  Ga.,  iii,  94 

Philadelphi.v,  P.\.  :  — 
Christ  Church,  iii,  104,  105 
Doorways,  IX,  35  ;  XII,  32 
Independence  Hall,  iii,  104,  105 
Maritime  Exchange,  iii,  J07 
Mint  designed  by  Strickland,  iii, 

107 
Naval    Asylum    designed    by 

Strickland,  iii,  107 
Nicholson    House,    designed   by 

L'Enfant,  iii,  109 
St.    Bartholomew's    Church,    iii, 

104,  105 
St.  Peter's  Church,  iii,  86 
"Woodlands,"  House  of  Wm. 
Hamilton,  iii,  115;  XII,  J,  28, 
29,30 
Philipse.     Frederick,  iii,  21 
Phips's  House,  Boston,  Mass.     Sir 

Wm.,  iii,  122 
Piazza.     See  "  Veranda." 
Piazzas.     Cantilever,  iii    1 1 1 
Pickens.     Gov.     F.     W.     and    his 

Guest-rooms,  iii,  1 1 2 
Pickens's   House   "  E  d  g  e  w  o  o  d." 

Gov.,  iii,  112;  XII,  JO,  Jl,  J2 
Piitu  re  paper        Parlor:      "Friend- 
field,"   near   Georgetown,   S.   C, 

X,  1,44,45 

Pierretonds.     The  Mantelpieces  at, 

iii,  15 
Pillau,  in,  (17 

Knckney, Chief  Justice  Charles,  iii, 
80 
"         p'amily.     The,  iii,  69 
"         Gen.  Charles  Cotesworth, 

iii,  70 
"         Gen.  Thomas,  iii,  70 
"         Grave  of    Gen.    Thomas, 
iii,  80 
Pineville,  S.  C,  a  Summer   Resort, 

iii,  65 
Pirate   "  Blackbeard "     and      Gov. 
Eden,  iii,  88 
"      Steed  Bonnet.     The,  iii,  38 
"  Plaisance  Plantation,"  iii,  99 
Plan  of  Charleston   Houses.     The 
Type,  iii,  31 
"      "    the'ilorry   House,    Char- 
leston, S.  C,  iii,  39 
"      "  Nath'l.      Russell      House, 
Charleston,  S.  C,  iii,  31 
Plantation  Houses  better  than  City 
Houses,  iii,  48 


Plantation  life  as  seen  by  the  Hon. 
Amelia  Murray,  iii,  93 

Plastered  External  Walls,  iii,  3 

Plymouth,    Mass.     Gravestone    of 
the  "  Alayflower's  "  Mate,  iii,  1 1 7 

Pohick    Church,   near   Alexandria, 
Va.,  iii,  86 

Polk's     House,     Nashville,     Tenn. 
President,  iii,  109;  XII,  43 

Pompion  Ilill  Chapel,  S.  C,  iii,  87 
"  "  "       Pulpit,     XI, 

J7 

Porch   of   Fuller  House,   Beaufort, 
S.  C,  XI,  23 
"        The  Georgian  iii,  8 

Porches,  iii,  67 

Portico  of    Massachusetts   State- 
house,  iii,  I  7 

Portrait   of   Washington   at  "  Lau- 
sanne."    Peale's,  iii,  83 

Portraits,  iii,  36 

Port  Royal  Naval   Station,   S.   C, 

iii.  75 
Portsmouth,  N.  FI.     D.  H.  Peirce 

House,  iii,  J2J 
Post-Georgian  Architecture,  iii,  107 
Post-office.     The  Charleston,  S.  C, 

iii,  53 

Powder  Magazine.    Charleston, 

S.    C,    Old 

Spanish,     iii, 

40 

"  "         Williamsburg, 

Va.,  iii,  40 
"        Tower,    Somerville,  Mass., 
iii,  J  06 
Presbyterian  Church  :  — 

C  h  arles  t  on,  S.  C, 
Flynn's,  iii,  40 
"  (Independent)  Church, 

Savannah,    Ga.,   iii, 
98 
"  Newark,   N.   J.,   First, 

iii,  16;  IX,  23 
Col.,    builds   "  Burnside," 


House,    Llanerch,    Pa., 

Church,    George- 
,52.  S7;  X,  40,41 


Preston 

iii,  I II 
Prichett's 

XII, 31 

Prince    George's 

town,  S.  C,  ii 
Pringle  House.   See  "  Bull-Pringle. 

"       The  Misses,  iii,  37 
Prioleau,  iii,  67 
Proclamation  Money,  iii,  78 
Professors'  Houses,  Univ.   of   Va., 

Charlottesville,    Va.,   IX,    7;   iii, 

25,  26,  27 

"  Prospect  Hill."  Waccamaw  River, 

S.  C,  iii,  52;  X,42,  43 
Providenck,  R.  I.;  — 

Bank  Building,  iii,  105,115;  XII, 

39 

Board  of  Trade  Building,  iii.  115 
Brown-C^ammell  House,  XII,  37, 

38;  iii,  115;  XII, 37,38 
Coach-house.   The  Rufus  (jreene, 

iii,  114 
Doorway  on  Benefit  St..  XII,  36 
Episcopal  Church,  iii,  104 
First   Baptist    Church,   iii,    104, 

115;  XII, 45 
First  Congregational  Church,  iii, 

104 
First    Universalist     Church,    111, 

104 
Houses  in,  iii,  103 
Market-house,  iii,  115 
Twin  Doorways,  IX,  27 
Wrought  Ironwork,  iii,  109 

Province  Building,  Halifax,  N.  S., 
iii,  17 
"  House,  Boston,  Mass.,  iii, 

122 
Pulpit:  — 

Goose  Creek  Church,  S.  C,  XI, 

17 

Pompion  Hill  Chapel,  near  Char- 
leston, S.  C,  XI,  17 

St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston, 
S.  CXI,  8 


Quakers. 
Quarters 


Quebec. 


Pui.piT:  — 

Trinity  Church,  Newport,  R.  I., 
IX,  20 
Pyatt  House,    Georgetown,    S.    C, 

iii,  64;  X,  41 

-Q- 

The  Philadelphia,  iii,  19 
for     Brewton     Slaves, 
Charleston,  S.  C,  iii, 
37 

De      Saussure      Ser- 
vants', iii,  31  ;  X,  4 
Horry  Slave,  iii,  39 
Slave,  iii,  45 

Georgian       Architecture 
in,  iii,  15 
Queen  Victoria's  Madeira  bought  in 

Charleston,  iii,  32 
"  Queen's  Building."     Rutgers  Col- 
lege,  designed    by  McComb,    iii, 
1 12 
Quincy,   Mass.     Room   in   Cottage 
of     John     and     Abigail 
Adams,  XII,  2 
"  Pa.,  Snow  Hill  Monastery, 

iii,  22 
Quincy's    Account   of    Charleston, 
S.  C.     Josiah,  iii,  42 

-R  — 

Radcliffeboro',  S,  C.  St.  Paul's 
Church,  iii,  40 

Railroad.  The  first  South  Caro- 
lina, iii,  100 

Randolph  Family,  iii,  25 

"  Ranges "  at  the  University  of 
Virginia,  iii,  26 

Ravenel.     Rene,  iii,  67 

Ravenel's  Savannah,  "  Wantout." 
Daniel,  iii,  67 

Rawdon  and  Gen.  Marion  in  the 
Santee  Region.      Lord,  iii,  loi 

Rawdon';  Headquarters  the  Brew- 
ton  House.     Lord,  iii,  48 

Rawlinson  Farm,  Rolvenden,  Kent, 
Eng.,  iii,  2,  3 

Reading,  Pa.     Germans  at,  iii,  19 

"  Ready  Made."  The  Epoch  of 
the,  iii,  1 16 

"  Redemptioners.     The,"  iii,  iS 

Redemptionist  Movement.  The, 
iii,  19 

"  Red  Lion  "  Tavern,  Philadelphia 
Co.,  Pa.,  iii,  23 

Revival.     The  Classic,  iii,  90,  94 
"  "    Greek,  iii,  94,  106 

Revolutionary  Legends  about 
Mulberry  Castle,  iii,  55 

Reynolds's  Portrait  of  Miles  Brew- 
ton.     Sir  Joshua,  iii,  38 

Rhett.     Col.   Wm.  and  the   Pirate 
Bonnet,  iii.  38 
"         Grave  of  William,  iii.  So 
"         House,  Charleston,  S.    C, 
iii,  38 

Rhodes.  Samuel,  Architect  of 
Penna.  Hospital,  Philadelphia, 
Pa.,  iii,  105 

Rice.  The  first  South  Carolina, 
iii,  33 

Richmond  Capitol  designed  by 

Clarissault,  iii,  104 

"  Va.     Van    Lew    House, 

iii,  122 

Roanoke  Island,  N.  C,  iii,  88 

Robbins,  Edw.,  appointed  an  .'\gent 
for  building  Massachusetts  State- 
house,  iii,  1 19 

Rochester,  Eng.,  Houses,  iii,  6,  7 

N.  Y.     The  Jno.  Childs 
House,  iii,  94,  no 

'■  Rock  Hall,"  Lawrence,  L.  I.,  XII, 

33 

"  Rocks,  The,"  a  Santee  Savannah, 

iii,  67 
Rolvenden,    Kent,    Eng.       Rawlin- 
son Farm,  iii,  2,  3 
"  Layne,       Kent,     Eng. 

Weslev's     Cottage, 
iii,  2 


Rosewell,  Ga.    The  Bulloch  House, 

iii,  96,  98 

"  "     The  Ilansell  House, 

iii,  96,  98 

Rotunda.     University    of  Virginia, 

Charlottesville,  Va.,  iii,  26  ;  IX.  6 

Rowan    P'amily.     "Federal    Hill," 

the  Homestead  of  the,  iii,  113 
Royal  Coat-of-Arms,  iii,  57 
Rumford   House.     Woburn,  Mass. 

Count,  XII,  34 
Russell,  Nath'l,  House,  Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  30,31,  39;  X,  12 
Rutgers  College  has  a  Building  by 

John  McComb,  iii,  112 
Rutledge.     Grave  of  Edward,  iii.  So 
"  Mrs.  Henry,  iii,  68 

-S- 

Safford  Homestead,  near  Madison, 

Ga.     The,  XII,  18 
St.  Andrew's,  on  the  Ashley,  S.  C, 
iii,  87;  XI,  15 
Augustine,  Fla.     Spanish  Settle- 
ments at,  iii,  89 
Bartholomew's    Church,    Phila- 
delphia, Pa.,  iii,  104,  105 
Catherine's  Island,  Ga.     Tabby- 
built  Cabins,  iii,  75 
Charles  Parish,  La.       "Home 
Place," 
iii.  III: 
XII,  4 
"  "         "         Home  of 

George 
Lorio, 
XII,  5 
Denis.     Church  of,  iii,  87 
Dunstan's  Feat,  iii,  i 
George's  Church,  Halifax,  N.  S., 

iii,  14,  16 
Helena's    Church,    Beaufort, 

S.  C,  iii,  76;  XI,  13 
James's,    Goose   Creek,    S.    C, 
iii,  86,  87 
"  Parish,  S.  C,  iii,  67 

"  Santee,  iii,  48,  65,  68, 

86;  XI,  11,  12 
John    the     Baptist,     La.     Mar- 
million  House,   Parish 
of,  XII,  4 
John's  Chapel,     New     York, 
N.  Y.,  iii,  105 
"        Church,    Hampton,    Va., 

iii,  84,  85 
"        College,  Annapolis,  Md., 

iii,  1 1 2 
"        Parish,  S.  C,  iii,  67 
Joseph's    in   the   Courtyard, 

Philadelphia,  Pa.,  IX,  35 
lulien,  iii,  67,  90 
Luke's,  Smithfield,  Va.,  iii,  85 
Martin's-in-the-Field,  L  o  n  d  o  n, 

Memin's  Engravings,  iii,  36 
Mary's  Male  Academy,  Norfolk, 

Va.,  iii,  63 
Michael's  Church,  Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  33,  43. 
47,48,78.80.  81, 
82;  XI,  3,4,5,  6, 
7,8 
"  Charleston,      S.     C, 

Architect  of,  iii,  79 
Paul's  Chapel,  New  York,  N.  Y., 
iii,  105 
"      Church,    Boston,    Mass., 

iii,  21 
"  "  Charleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  40 
"  "  Edenton,  N.  C, 

iii,  88 
Halifax,    N.    S., 
iii,  16 
Peter's  Church,  Isle  of  Wight, 
Va.,  iii,  87 
"        Philadelphia,    Pa.,   iii, 
86 
Philip's      Church,      Charleston, 
S.  C,  iii,  2>j'  40,  43,  80,  82. 
S3;  XI,  9 


EXPLAN.VTION  :  —The  Volume  is  indicited  by  ''  iii  .      ,    .  u    . 

Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  iocauou  of  the  plate  in  that  1  art. 


All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numerals.    The  full-page  plates  are  Indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


St.  Philip's  Churcli.  Charleston,  S. 

C.     The  Second,  iii.  Si 
**    Stephen's  Church.  Santee.  S.  C. 
111,67,85,87;  XI,  15 
"  '•  Tarish,  S.  C,  iil.  67 

"    Thomas,   S.   C.     Parish    of,   ill, 

87 
Salem,  Mass.     The  Nichols  Stable- 
yard,  111,  JH,  115 
"  "        Veranda.     A,  iil, 

The  Waller  House, 
Hi,  1 1 
Salem,  N.    C.      The    Moravian 

Church,  iii,  22 
Saltonstall  House,  Ipswich,  Mass.. 

iii,  12 
Sampit  Creek,  S.  C,  iil,  49 
San  Domingo  Influence  in  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  Houses,  iii,  2g 
Santee,  S.  C,  "  El  Dorado,"  iii,  68 
"  "       English,  iii,  67 

"  "       French,  Hi,  65 

"  "      "Hampton,"    ill,  66, 

67 
"  "      "  Millford,"  iii,   100; 

XII,  17 
"  "      Old    Wamboro     [St. 

James's]      Church, 
ill,  65,  68,86;  XI, 
JI,  )2 
"  "      St.  Stephen's  Church, 

iil,  67,  85,  87  ;  XI, 
J5 
Saugus,    Mass.,  Boardman   House, 

iii,  J  2 
Savage.     Portrait    by    Edward,    iii. 

Savannah  Fires.     1  wo,  ill,  90 

"  and    Parts    of    the    Far 

South,  iii,  89 

Savannah,  Ga.  ;  — 

Bulloch  House.     The,  iii,  91,  93, 

94,97;  XII,  9 
Christ  Church,  ill,  93 
Exchange  Building.     The,  ill,  90 ; 

XII,  8 
Gilmer  House,  ill,  89 
Independent      Presbyterian 

Church,  iii,  98 
McAlpin    House.     The,    iii,    95, 

96 
Minus  House.     The,  Hi,  92 
Owens  House.     The.  iil,  9t,  92 
Scarborough     House.     The,    iii, 

9°,  9( 
Telfair    Art     Gallery.     The,    iii, 

91,  92 
Tomb.     An  old  Brick,  Hi,  90 
Yamacraw,  the  oldest  Part  of  the 

City,  Hi,  91 

Savannah    River,  Ga.      "The  Her- 
mitage." on  tile,  iil,  109 

Savannahs,  ill,  67 

Saxe    Gotha,    S.   C.      Germans    at, 
ill,  19 

Sayle,    Col.  Wm.,  settles    Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  ill,  29 

Scarborough  House,  Savannah,  Ga. 
The,  iil,  90,  9) 

Schoolhouse,  Beaufort,  S.  C.     Old 
Baptist,  ill,  7) 

Sculptor.    Giuseppe  Jardella,  Hi,  24 

Sea   Island   Cottage.     A    Georgia, 
iil,  58,  59 
"  "     Hotel,    Beaufort,  S.   C, 

in,  77 

Second-story     Drawing-rooms,     Hi, 

35 
Secret      Chamber     at     "  Veaman's 

Hall."  Hi.  56 
Sedgely  Abbey,  Wilmington,  X.  C, 

in,  28 
Senate    Chamber,     Boston,     Ma.ss. 

The  Old,  HI,  J20;  XII,  40 
Settlement    of    Charleston,    S.    C, 
Hi,  29,  89  ' 

"  "     New  Orleans,    I>a.,  i 

iil,  89 


Seventeenth-c  e  n  t  u  r  y     Buildings. 

Fist  of.  ill,  1 1 
Shedd  House,   lirighton,  Mass.,  ill, 

J2 
Shell  Hoods,  ill,  9 
Shepardstown,    Va.      Germans    at. 

Shepherd  House,  Ijinwood,  Ga. ,  ill, 

60 
"  Shirley,"  Va.,  ill,  36 

"  The  Porch  at,  ill,  62 

SUk   Culture   in    So.   Carolina,   in, 

54 
Slmonton     Ciatewav,      C  harleston, 

S.  C,  iii,  30;  X,  29,  30 
Sketches.     Jefferson's,  ill,  25 
Slave     Ironworker.     A     blind,   iii, 

34 
"         Labor  in  Georgia,  iil,  93 

Quarters,  111,  31,  34,  37,  45 
"  who    saved     St.    Michael's. 

The,"  ill,  8r 
"         Return  of  CJov.  Manning's 
kidnapped,  iii,  100 
Sleepy  Hollow  Church,  Tarrytown, 

N.  v.,  in,  21;  IX,  26 
Smibert,   John,   Architect  of    Fan- 

eull  Hall,  iil,  103,  105 
Smith.     Landgrave  Thomas,  ill,  33 

73 
"         Robert,  Architect  of  Car- 
penters' Hall,  Philadel- 
jihia.  Pa.,  111,  105 
Smithfield,  Va.    St.  Luke's  Church, 

iii,  85 
Smythe.     Capt.  J.  Edger,  Hi,  30 
"  Augustine,  House,  Char- 

leston, S.  C,  X,  14 
Snow  Hill  Monastery,  (.)uincy.  Pa., 

Hi,  22 
Society  of  Colonial  Dames  of  Pa., 

ill,  22 
Soldier  and  Washington's  Portrait. 

The  Federal,  ill,  84 
Soldiers'     Ravages    in    Charleston, 

S.  C.      Federal,  Hi,  48 
Soldiers  steal  a  Bible.     British,  Hi, 

68 
Somerville,     Mass.     Old     Powder- 
magazine,  ill,  106 
South    Carolina.      German    Settle- 
mejits  in,  iil,  19 
"       The  Far,  Hi,  89 
"        Santee    River,    S.    C,    "El 
Dorado,"  XI,  J 8,  J  9 
"  "     River,  S,  C,"  Hamp- 

ton," XI,  J9 
"  "     Sportsman's  Club,  iH. 

69,  70 
"  "     S.  C.  "The  Wedge," 

111,73 
Spanish    Influence   affects    Louisi- 
ana Architecture,  Hi,  99 
"        Powder-magazine,      Char- 
lestcm,   S.    C,    Old,    Hi, 
40 
"         Reminiscences  In  Charles- 
ton, S.  C,  Hi,  35 
"        Settlements  at  St.  Augus- 
tine, Ha.,  111,  89 
Spanish-tiled  Roofs  in  Charleston. 

S.  C,  iil,  44 
Sportsman's  Club.     South  Santee, 

S.  C,  111,  69 
Sproull  Homestead,   near   Carters- 

ville,  Ga.,  ill,  1  JO,  1 12 
Stables.     Architectural   Quality  of 

Colonial,  ill,  1 15 
Spurs  on  Angle-posts,  ill,  5 
Staljle  at  "  Mount  Vernon,"  iii,   115 
"       "  "  Woodlands,"     Philadel- 
])hla,  Pa.,  iil,  115  ;  XII, 

30 

Stable-yard,     Salem,      Mass.     The 

Nichols,  iii,  J  J  4,  115 
.Stage-roads,  ill,  67 
Staircases,     Charleston,  S.  C,  1 

34 
"  Circular,  ill,  49 

"  Savannali,  Ga.,  ill,  91 

XII,  9 


Staircases  :  — 

Brown-Gammell     House,    Provi- 
dence, R.  I.,  XII,  38 
Bulloch    House,    Savannah,    Ga., 

XII,  9 
BulIPrlngle    [Miles    Brewton] 

House,  Charleston,   S.   C  ,  X, 

25 
Elliott  House,  Charleston,  S.  C, 

Hi,  34 
Fuller    Hou.se,    Beaufort,    S.   C, 

XI,  23 

Stairlandlng   in    Beardsley   House, 

Beaufort,  S.  C,  ill,  77 
Stairs.     Exterior,  Hi,  61 
Stanniford  House,  Va.,  HI.  60 
Starkweather    House,     Pawtucket, 

R.  I.     Entrance  to,  IX,  J 
State-house,  Boston.     See  "  Massa- 
chusetts " 
"  Boston,     Old    .Senate 

Chamber,  XII,  40 
"  Columbia,  S.    C,  de- 

signed   by    Hoban, 
ill,  108 
"  Indiana,  in,  124 

"  North     Carolina,    Hi, 

107 
"  Portico  of  Massachu- 

setts, iil,  17 
"  Stenton,"    the    Home    of    James 

Logan,  iii,  22;  IX,  J2 
Stone  Houses,  Hi,  114 
Stories.     Projecting  upper.  Hi,  1 1 
Strasburg,  Va.     Germans  at,  ill,  19 
Strawberry  Church,  on  the  Cooper 

River,  S.  C,  Hi,  87;  XI,  J5 
Street  Names  in  Charleston,  S.  C, 

ill,  44 
Strickland,  Wm.,  Architect,  IH,  107 
Stuart  and  Revett's  Book,  iii,  108 
Style.     The  Georgian,  Hi,  106 
.Sugar-planter's     llouse.       Typical, 

Hi,  1 1 1 
Sully.     A  Portrait  by,  ill,  38 
Sumner,  Jas.,  and  Jos.  Brown  design 
First     Baptist     Church,     Provi- 
dence, R.  I.,  Hi,  115 
.Sunday  Habits  in  Charleston,  S.  C, 

iii,  46 
Swamps.     The  Santee,  ill,  66 
Swedes  Church,  Upper  Merlon,  Pa., 
ill,  21 
"  "        Wilmington,     Del. 

Old,  iii,   21  ;   IX. 

4,5 

Swell-fronts  in  Halifax,  Hi,  17 

-T  — 

Tabby-built    Cabins.      .St.    Cather- 
ine's Island,  Ga..  Hi, 
75 
"  The  Owens  House,  Hi, 

91 
"  Tapia  "  corrupted  to  "  Tabby,"  Hi, 

91 
Tarleton.     Gen.,  ill,  67 
Tarleton's  Headquarters,  ill,  69 
Tarrytown,  N.   \'.     .Sleepy  Hollow- 
Church,  ill,  21  ;   IX,  26 
Tavern.     See  "  Inn." 

Taverns ; — 

"  Blue  Bell  "  Derby,  Pa  ,  ill,  24 
"  Oak    Tree,"  Montgomery   Co., 

Pa.,  ill.  24 
"  Red  Lion,"  Phlla.  Co.,   Pa.,  Hi, 

23 
"  Wm.  Penn."  Del.  Co.,  Pa.,  ill, 

22 

Taverns.      Pennsylvania,  ill,  24 
Tayloe   Place,  "  Mount    Airy,"    on 

the  Rap])ahannoirk,  Va.,  iii,  114; 

XII,  22,  23 
Teach,  the  Pirate,  and  Gov.  Eden, 

ill,  88 
Telfair  Art  Gallery,  Savannah,  Ga. 

The,  ill,  91,  92 
Temple  of  Theseus   the  Model  for 

"  Arlington,"  Hi,  1 10 


Temple  of  the  Winds  Order.     The, 

Hi,  109 
Ten   Broeck    Hou.se,    Kingston, 
j      N.  Y.,  ill,  1 17 
Thatched  Roofs,  111,  92 
'I'hird-story   Drawing-rooms,  iil,  98 


Thomasvllle,    Ga. 

near,  XII,  3 
Thornton,  Dr.  Wm., 


(jreenwood," 


Architect,  ill, 

107,  113 

"  "  "      designs, 

"  M  o  n  t  - 

pelier,"  iil, 

"5 

"  "  "      po.sslbly  the 

Archl  t  ec  t 
of  "  Ken- 
more,"   iii, 

1'3 
limber  Panic  in  England,  Hi,  10 
Tomb,  Beaufort,  S.  C.     Old  Brick, 
iii,  76 
"       Drayton,  "  Magnolia  on  the 

A.shley,"  S.  C,  XI,  20 
"       Arthur  Middleton's,  Ashley 

River,  S.  C,  XI,  20 
"       Savannah,    Ga.     Old  Brick, 
Hi,  90 
Tombs.     Prince    George's  Church- 
yard, Georgetown,  S.  C, 
IH,  35 
Tombstone.     D'llarrlette,  iil,  46 
"  Thos.  Jefferson's,  iil, 

25 
Tombstones,  111,  35,  JJ7 

"  in  .St.  PhiHp's  Church- 

yard,    Charleston, 
S.  C,  Hi,  35 
Toronto.     A  simple  English  House 

in,  iii,  15 
Totnes,  So.   Devon,  Eng.     House, 

Hi,  8 
Town  Clock,  Halifax,  N.  S.,  Hi,  J 7 
"      Hall,  Newport,  R,  I.,  Hi,  103 
Towne,  Ithiel,  Architect  of  North 
Carolina  State-house,  ill,  107,  124 
Tradd    House,     Charleston.      The 
Robert,  111,  33 
"        Street,    Charleston,    S.    C, 

iii,  ^1, 
Transcript's    List    of    Seventeenth- 
century  Buildings,  iil,  1 1 
Trapplst  Church,  CoUegeville,  Pa., 

Old,  Hi,  21 
Trinity  Church,  Newark,  N.  J.,  in, 
16;  IX, 23 
"  "         Newport.  R.  I.,  iii, 

21;  IX,  19,20, 
2J,22 
"        Churchyard,    New     York, 

N.  v.,  111,  1 17 
"       "Old   .Swedes,"    Church, 
Wilmington,     Del.,    Hi, 
21;  IX,  4,  5 
Trip    to    South     Carolina.     An 

Autumn,  Hi,  43 
Trombone  Chorals  at  Salem,  N.  C, 
111,  22 
"         playing    at     Bethlehem, 
Hi,  20 
Tryon's  Palace,  New  Berne,  N.  C. 

Gov.,  ill,  23,  28 
"Tulip  Hill,"  Md.,  Hi,  60 
Turnbull  House,  near    Charleston, 
S.  C.     The  Robert  J.,  iii,  49,  53 
Tuskegee,     Ala.      Homestead,    A, 

X11.3 
Twelves.  Robert,  Architect  of  South 

Church,  Boston,  ill.  105 
Tybee  Island,  .S.  C,  Hi,  74 
Type   Plan  of   Charleston   Houses, 

'iii,  31 
Typical  Charleston,  S.  C,  Houses, 
iH,  30,  45;  X,  5,27 
"        Veranda,  Charleston,  S.  C, 
X,27 


-U- 

Unlon      .Soldiers     in      Charleston. 
Damages  by,  ill,  48 


Expi.ANATroN  :  — The  Volume  k  indicated  by  "  iii  "     All 
Part,  and  bold  face  figures  sli.,«ing  ilic  1   c.ilioii'of  ilie  |ilale  i: 


llustrations  are  indicated  by  bold  face  numerals.    The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the 
tliat  J'art. 


GENERAL    INDEX   OF  TEXT  AND   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


x" 


"University  Hall,"  Cambridge,  by 
Bulfinch,  iii,  1 12 
"  of     North     Carolina, 

Chapel     Hill, 
N.  C.,  iii,  1 12 
"  "     Virginia,     C  h  a  r- 

lottesN'ille,    Va., 
iii,  25;  IX,  6,  7 
Upper  Merion,  Pa.  Christ  (Swedes) 
Church,  iii,  21 
"       Stories  Corbelled-out,  iii,   3 
Ursuline   Convent,    New   Orleans, 
La.,  XH,  6 


■V- 


and    Peter 
New  ^'ork. 


Brooklvn, 


Vanbrugh.      Sir    John 

Harrison,  iii,   103 
Vandenheuvel  House, 

N.  Y.     The,  iii,  17 
Vanderveer     House, 

N.  v.,  iii,  1 16 
Vassall-Longfellow    House  Veran- 
das.    The,  iii,  62 
Vendue  Range,  Charleston,  S.  C, 

The,  iii,  40 
Veranda.     The  Charleston,  iii,  30, 
57,61,62 
Details,  X,  28 
"  Entrance.     A,  iii,  36 

"  Evolution  of  the  South- 

ern, iii.  61 
"  Typical   Charleston,  X, 

27 
"  Window    at    Bull-Prin- 

gle  House,  iii,  38 
Closed  -in,      Beaufort, 

S.  C,  iii,  64 
Necessity  of,  iii,  35 
Madeira       bought      in 
Charleston,  iii,  32 
Villepontoux,   F.,   Architect  of  St. 

Stephen's,  Santee,  iii,  67 
Virginia.     German  Settlements  in, 
iii,  19 
"  The  University  of,  iii,  25  ; 

IX,  6,  7 

-W- 

Waccamaw  River,  S.  C.  iii.  52 


Verandas 


Victoria's 


Waggoner  [Loundes]  House, 
Charleston,  S.  C.  iii,  49;  X,  33 
Waiters  at  Funerals,  iii,  42 
Waldoboro,  Me.  Lutheran  Settle- 
ment at,  iii,  19 
Waller  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  iii,  11 
Walls.       Jefferson's     Single-brick, 

iii,  26 
Walton,     George,    Signer    of    the 
Declaration    of    Inde- 
pendence, iii,  1 1 2 
"         Memorial       Association, 
iii.  II I 
Wamboro    [St.    James's]     Church, 
Santee,  S.C.     Old,  iii,  65,  6S,  86; 
XI,  )I,  J2 
Waterman      Parlor-mantel,      Du.\- 

bury,  Mass.,  iii,  loS;  XH,  40 
"  Wantout,"  the  Savannah  of  Dan- 
iel Ravenel,  iii,  67 
Washington,    Designer   of    Pohick 
Church.     Gen.,  iii, 
86 
"  Ga..  iii,  97 

"  at  ■•  Hampton,"  Gen., 

iii,  70 
■ "  ''Lausanne,'' 

I'eale's  Portrait  of, 
iii,  83 
"  D.  C,  Door  to  Octa- 

gon House.  IX,  Z1 
"  D.  C,  Park  Improve- 

ment scheme,  iii,  116 
D.    C.     The    White 
House,  iii,  95,  109, 
)I6;  XII, 46 
Watson    House,    Newport,    R.     I., 

Doorway  to,  IX,  29 
"  Waverly,"  near  Columbus,  Miss., 

iii,  60 
Weather-boards,  iii,  10 
Webster.      Daniel,  iii,  95 
"  Wedge,  The,"  So.  Santee,  S.  C, 

iii,  73 
^\edg^vood  China  at  "Hampton," 

iii,  70 
Welsh   Influence  on    Pennsylvania 

Architecture,  iii,  106 
Werner,   Diedrick,  a  German  Iron- 
worker, iii,  30,  79 


Wesley's       Cottage,        Rolver^den 

Layne,  Kent,  Eng.,  iii,  2 
"  Westover,"  on  the   James  River, 
Va.,  XII,  24 
"  The  Brickwork  at,  iii, 

84 
West  Springfield,  Mass.  T  h  e    First 
Church, 
iii,  103 
"  "  "        The     Jo- 

siah  Day 
Ho  u  s  e, 
XII,  2 
West      Wycombe,      Bucks,     Eng. 

House,  iii,  4 
Whipple    House,    Ipswich,    Ma,ss., 

iii,  1 1 
"  White   House,"  W'ashington,    D. 

C,  iii,  95,  109,  116;  XII,  46 
"  White  Ladies,"  iii,  99 

"       Plains,"  Santee,  S.  C,  iii, 

67 

"  Whitehall,"  Md.,  iii,  60 

WiUiam  and  Mary  College.     Colo- 
nial Building  at,  iii,  1 12 
"         Penn    Tavern,     Del.     Co., 
Pa.,  iii,  22 


Williamsburg,  Va. 

iii,  81 
Wilmington,  Del. 


Christ  Church, 


Trinity,    "Old 

Swede  s," 

Church,     iii, 

21;  IX,  4,  5 

N.  C,  iii,  28 

"  '■       Gov.      Tryon's 

Palace,  iii,  28 

Winchester,   Va.     Germans  at,  iii, 

19 
"  "      The  Hite  House, 

iii,  H3,  1 14 
Window,  Palladian,  "  Woodlands," 
Philadelphia,  Pa.,  XII, 
29 
"  in      Bull-Pringle     [Miles 

Brew  to  n]     House, 
Charleston,    S.   C,  iii, 
38;  X, 26 
Wmdows.     The  Function  of,  iii,  6 
Windsor,  Eng.     The   Camellia  Ja- 
ponica  at,  iii,  72 


"  Windy  Hill,"  near  Natchez,  Miss., 

XII,  J9 
Wing-pavilioned  House.     The,  iii, 

57 
Wine-closets.     Attic,  lii,  32,  45 
Winyavv.     Prince  George's,  iii,  52 
Witt'e  House,  Charleston,  S.  C,  iii, 

4J,97;  X,  16 
"  Woodlands,"    Philadelphia,    Pa., 

iii,  114;  XII,  1,28,29,30 
"  Woodlawn,"    the     Prototype    of 

"  Kenmore,"  iii,  112 
Woodruff.     Judah,  Builder,  iii,  104 
Woodruff's,  Judah,  Buildings.    List 

of,  iii,  105 
Woodstock,  Va.     Germans  at,  iii, 

19 

"  Woodville  "  destroyed  by  !•  ire,  iii, 

70 
Wren.     Sir  Christopher,  ni,  79 
Wren's  Travels  in  Holland,  iii,  18 
Wrought    Ironwork.       Charleston, 

iii,  34;  X,  7  ..       ^ 

"  Wyck,"  Germantown,  Pa.,  iii,  106 

-Y- 

Yamacravv,  Ga.    Oglethorp  lands  at, 
iii,  89 
"  the  oldest  Part   of    Sa- 

vannah, iii,  91 
Yeamans.      Gov.  Sir  John,  iii,  28 
"  Sir  Thomas,  iii,  7 1 

"  Hall,       Goose      Creek, 

S.  C,  iii,  55,  73, 

Si 
"  "      Ghost.      1  he,    iii, 

56 

York,  formerly  Agamenticus,  Me  , 

iii,  1 15 

"      Me.,    Massacre    by    French 

and  Indians,  iii,  1 16 

"  "       The    Mclntire     Garri 

son,  iii,  \  J  5 
"  '•  "     old  Jail,  iii,   J  J 5, 

116 

—  Z  — 

Zinzendorf.     Count  and  Countess, 
iii,  18 


Explanation  :  —  The  V..:ume  i.,^  intlicaled  by  "  iii."     All  illustrations  are  indicated  by  bold-face  numer.tls.     The  full-page  plates  are  indicated  by  Roman  numerals  indicating  the 
Part,  and  bold-face  figures  showing  the  location  of  tlie  plate  in  tltai  Part. 


PREFACE. 


T^HE  formidable  attempt  to  bring-  about  the  destruction  of  the  "Bulfinch  Front"  of 
the  Massachusetts  State  House,  one  of  the  most  admirable  as  well  as  one  of  the 
latest  examples  of  "  Colonial  "  architecture,  and  the  constant  appearance  in  the  daily 
papers  of  accounts  of  the  destruction  by  fire  of  this  or  that  ancient  building  endowed 
with  historic  or  architectural  interest  have,  as  much  as  anything,  perhaps,  brought 
about  the  undertaking  of  this  publication. 

The  desirability  of  making,  before  it  should  be  too  late,  some  adequate  record 
of  the  architectural  remains  of  Colonial  work  seemed  too  obvious  and  insistent  to  be 
longer  disregarded.  It  remained  only  to  determine  the  form  and  character  of  publica- 
tion likely  to  prove  of  most  value.  Recalling  at  this  point  the  fact  that  the  many 
volumes  of  the  American  Architect  contained  a  large  number  of  measured  drawings 
and  fugitive  papers  dealing  with  the  selected  period,  it  appeared  evident  that  they 
might  easily  be  made  to  serve  as  a  nucleus  about  which  to  gather,  as  they  might  come 
to  hand,  other  illustrations  and  papers  of  various  kinds.  Fortunately  there  was  found 
amongst  this  matter  already  published,  in  a  series  of  admirable  drawings  by  Mr. 
Frank  E.  Wallis,  and  in  another  by  Mr.  Claude  Fayette  Bragdon,  just  the  character 
of  handling  that  was  needed  to  exhibit  the  typical  treatment  which  intending  contribu- 
tors could  be  required  to  follow. 

The  authors  of  the  papers  that  first  appeared  in  the  American  Architect,  and  are 
now  republished,  have  kindly  consented  to  revise  them,  and  some  of  the  drawings  have 
been  redrawn  in  harmony  with  the  adopted  type,  credit  being  attributed  to  the  original 


draughtsmen  in  each  case.  In  this  way,  an  air  of  continuity  and  homogeneity  has 
been  attained  which  will  be  more  easily  preserved  in  the  fresh  and,  as  a  rule,  unpub- 
lished matter  which  is  flowing  in  from  all  sides.  For,  as  was  hoped,  the  publication 
has  attracted  attention  in  every  part  of  the  country,  and  architects  and  draughts- 
men in  neighborhoods  where  interesting  examples  of  Colonial  work  still  exist  are 
promising  their  aid  in  perfecting  this  preservative  record. 

Further  contributions  of  sketches,  measured  drawings,  photographs  and  nega- 
tives, as  well  as  miscellaneous  papers  dealing  with  some  phase  or  fashion  of  the  style, 
or  descriptive  merely  of  some  neighborhood  or  building,  will  be  cordially  welcomed. 

The  present  volume  is  issued  without  an  index,  but  as  the  publication  grows  in 
importance  proper  indices  will  be  issued. 


The  So-cailed  Colonial  Architecture 
of  the  United  States/ 


"Men  can   with  diliiculty  uriginate,  even  in  a  new  hemisphtru."  —  Edward  Kcci.kston. 


IT  is  propoled  in  this  paper  to  gather  together  Ibme  of  the 
records  bearing  upon  tlie  architecture  of  the  feventeenlh 
and  eighteenth  centuries,  and  to  arrange  thefe  fo  as  to 
furnilh  a  (hort,  fyfteniatic  and  comprehenfive  iurvey  of 
what  building  activity  was  exerciled  within  the  English  Prov- 
inces of  America  during  that  time. 

The  art  of  this  period,  —  including  alio  tlie  fiiil  twenty  ycais 
of  the  nineteenth  century,  —  is  generally  called  "  Colonial." 
Some  object  to  the  term,  faying  tliat  there  is  too  much  variety 
of  flyle  to  come  under  one  head,  and  that,  moreover,  the  befl 
work  was  executed  long  after  the  original  Colonies  had  be- 
come Provinces,  and  even  later.  But  the  term  has  been  in 
ufe  fo  long,  and  is  fo  fuggefl.ve  and  comprehenlive,  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  find  one 
more  acceptable.  Object  as  we 
may  to  the  words  "  Cotliic  "  and 
"Colonial,"  we  cannot  fpare 
them,  for  no  other  words  call 
up  in  the  mind  fo  complete  a 
pitlure.  not  only  of  architecture 
and  of  the  other  arts,  but  of  all 
the  peculiar  conditions —  focial, 
religious  and  politicul — which 
produced  the  Mediaval  eccleli- 
aftical  architectuie  of  Europe 
and  the  eighteenth-century  do- 
meftic  architecture  of  America. 

In  this  domeific  arcliittclure, 
there  was  evolution  and  growth, 

jufl  as  truly  as  in  any  other  llyle.  If  the  petfeclion  of 
Greek  art  remained  unaccountable  until  the  archaological 
difcoveries  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile  an<l  the  Euphrates,  still 
lefs  would  one  underifand  Colonial  art  without  a  knowledge 
of  the  preceding  ffyles.  America  owes  Europe  much,  and 
we  (hall  fee  that  the  emigrants  left  the  mother  country  with 
neither  empty  hands  nor  empty  heads. 

THE    NKW    KN(;LA.\Ii    I'KOVINCb.S:     IHIMEMIC    .\  KClIlTIXTf  UK. 

The  reafon  for  beginning  with  the  New  England  Colonies 
is  not  becaufe  they  are  the  oldell  and  furnilh  a  good  geo- 
graphical flarting-point,  but  becaufe  in  them  is  more  and 
better  material,  more  thoroughly  invelli,^aied  and  recorded. 
Moreover,  the  architecluro  in   them,  being   homogeneous,  is 


FiK. 


more  ealily  clariified.  By  making  a  clallitication,  the  fubfe- 
quent  inquiry  farther  fouth  will  be  made  eafier,  for  thus  a 
ftandard  or  criterion  will  have  been  eflablilhed  to  which 
reference  can  be  made. 

After  the  firll  quarter  of  the  eighteenth  century  there  came 
to  the  Colonill  a  period  of  comparative  peace  and  profperity. 
The  Indian  was  no  longer  a  flanding  menace,  "  the  ftubborn 
phalanx  of  foreft  trees  had  been  gradually  beaten  back,  the 
difencumbered  fields  yielded  a  furplus,  and  leifure  and  com- 
fort compenfated  for  hard  beginnings."  It  is  only  natural  to 
find  architecture  influenced  by  this.  Almofl  all  good  Co- 
lonial work  is  later  than  1730. 

A  brief  review  of  the  earlier  period  poffeffes,  however,  both 
interelt  and  value.  The  fubject 
can  bell  be  difcuffed  under  three 
topics;  Log-houfes,  Military 
Homes  and  Settlers'  Cottages. 

The  log-houfe,  the  firfl  and 
mod  natural  dwelling-  in  a  new 
and  thickly-wooded  country, 
was  not  to  the  taile  of  the  Colo- 
nill. Life  in  it  was  to  him  a 
chryfalid  ftate,  from  which  to 
emerge,  the  fooner  the  better. 
Roughly  fquared  limbers  feemed 
incompatible  with  his  higher 
ideals. 

Yet  the  firll  Doric  artifan, 
when  called  upon  by  his  fellows 
to  rear  a  worthy  abode  for  the  ancient  xoanon,  did  not  find 
it  fo.  Looking  about  for  fuggellions,  he  saw  nothing  but 
the  low-roofed  timber  houfes  of  Homer's  heroes.  But  in  them 
his  artillic  fenfe  perceived  great  poflibilities.  In  the  rough 
timber  ends  he  found  fplendid  triglyphs  ;  in  the  open  fpaces, 
fculptured  metopes;  in  the  ungainl-  trunnels,  depending 
guttre;  and  in  the  overhanging  rafters,  richly  raifed  mutules. 
But  the  Colonill,  difdaining  the  material  at  hand,  call  long- 
ino-  glances  back  to  Europe,  and,  from  his  earliefl  efforts  to 


Tlie  "Old  Slone  House,"  Guilford,  Conn.     Built,  1639- 


1  Post-graduate  thesis  of  Mr.  Olof  Z.  Cervin,  Architectural  Department, 
School  of  Mines,  Columliia  College,  1894,  revised  and  amplified. 

■■^Mr.  C.  W.  Mrnst  has  recently  <liscovered  satisfactory  evidence  that 
the  very  first  work  of  the  settlers  was  to  set  up  saw-nulls,  that  they  might 
get  out  the  lumbar  in  the  siz-es  and  shapes  which  llioy  were  wont  to 
handle  at  home.  —  En. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Fig.  2.    The  Cradock  House,*  Medford,  Mass 
Hapgood  in  1881, 


his  laft.  there  was  ever  a  confcious  driving  to  reproduce  in 
this  new  land  his  former  home,  grown  doubl}'  dear  through 
long  reparation.  Thus  Lowell  fays  of  Cambridge,  that  it 
looked  like  an  Englilh  village 
badly  tranlplanted. 

Many  fettlers  had  for  a  long 
time  no  choice  but  to  live  in 
log-houfes.  This  fact  they  con- 
cealed as  beil  they  could  by 
covering  them  with  clapboards 
or  fliingles,  put  on  with  hand- 
wrought  nails.  The  floor,  often 
at  firft  of  If  aniped  clay,  was  ibon 
fuperfeded  by  a  pavement  of 
rough  puncheons.  The  window- 
lights  were  of  mica,  of  oiled  pa- 
per, or  of  horn.  No  glafs  found 
its  way  to  the  Colonies  before 
the  year  1700,  or  thereabouts. 

The  Military  Homes  '■  ■  were  more  important  ftruclures.  As 
in  the  early  fettlements  the  prime  requifite  was  protedfion 
againft  the    elements,  wild    beafls    and  favage   men,  it  was 

1  The  Old  Stone  House  at  Guilforii,  Conn.  —  "This  house  was 
erected  by  the  Rev.  Henry  Whitfield,  both  for  the  accommodation  of 
his  family  and  as  a  fortification  fur  the  protection  of  the  inhabitants 
against  the  Indians.  It  is  the  oldest  stone  dwelling-house  now  standing 
in  New  England.  This  house  was  kept  in  its  original  form  until  1868, 
when  it  underwent  such  renovation  as  to  change  to  some  extent  its  in- 
terior arrangement,  although  the  north  wall  and  large  stone  chimney  are 
substantially  the  same  as  they  have  been  for  over  two  centuries.  It  is 
said  that  the  first  Cuilford  marriage  was  celebrated  in  it,  the  wedding- 
table  being  garnished  with  pork  and  pease.  According  to  tradition,  the 
stone  of  which  this  house  was  built  was  brought  by  the  Indians  on  hand- 
barrows  across  a  swamp  from  Criswold  rock,  a  ledge  about  eighty  rods 
east  of  the  house.  It  consisted  of  two  stories  and  an  attic.  The 
walls  were  3  feet  thick.  At  the  southeast  corner  of  the  second  floor  there 
was  a  singular  embrasure  commanding  the  approach  from  the  south  and 
west,  and  evidently  made  for  defensive  purposes.  In  the  attic  were 
two  recesses,  evidently  intended  as  places  of  concealment."  —  .Smith's 
"History  of  Guilford." 

The  following  description,  taken  from  Vol.  2  of  Palfrey's  "History  of 
New  England"  gives  other  details:  — 

"  The  walls  are  of  stone  from  a  ledge  eighty  rods  distant  to  the  east. 
It  was  probably  brought  on  hand-barrows  across  a  swamp  over  a  rude 
causeway,  which  is  still  to  be  traced.  A  small  addition  has  in  modern 
times  been  made  to  the  back  of  the  house,  but  there  is  no  (juestion  but 
the  main  building  remains  in  its  original  state,  even  to  the  oak  of  the 
beams,  floors,  doors  and  window-sashes.  In  the  recesses  of  the  windows 
are  broad  seats.  Within  the  memory  of  some  of  the  residents  of  the 
town  the  panes  of  glass  were  of  diamond  shajie.  The  height  of  the  first 
story  is  7%  feet;  the  height  of  the  second  is  (>%  feet.  At  the  southerly 
corner  in  the  second  story  there  was  originally  an  embrasure  about  a  foot 
wide  with  a  stone  flooring,  which  remains.  The  exterior  walls  are  now 
closed  up,  but  not  the  walls  within.  The  walls  of  the  front  and  back  of 
the  house  terminate  at  the  floors  of  the  attic,  and  the  rafters  lie  upon 
them.  The  angle  of  the  roof  is  sixty  degrees,  making  the  base  and  sides 
equal.  At  the  end  of  the  wing,  by  the  chinmey,  is  a  recess  which  must 
have  been  intended  as  a  place  of  concealment  The  interior  wall  has 
the  appearance  of  touching  the  chinmey  like  the  wall  at  the  northwest 
end,  but  the  removal  of  a  board  discovers  two  closets,  which  project 
beyond  the  lower  jKirt  of  the  building." 

Writing  about  the  house  Mrs.  Cone,  the  present  owner,  says  :  ft  was 
built  as  a  jilace  of  refuge  from  the  Indians,  also  as  a  place  of  public 
worship.  The  jiartitions  in  the  mam  building  were  movable  and  folded 
up  like  a  fan  and  were  fastened  to  the  rafters  by  what  they  called  kevs. 


1634.     Sketched  by  M.  H. 


Kear  View  .,£  '.he  Old  Slone  House,  Guilford,  Conn. 

iron  sta|)ks  with  a  crossbar  that  turned  in  a  socket.  When  fastened  up 
the  whole  house  was  one  room.  There  was  no  secoiid  floor.  Tiie  cast 
wing  was  a  still  smaller  building  with  only  two  rooms  and  some  small 
closets.  'I'here  were  chiinueys  on  the  south  and  east  sides  like  the  one 
now  standing  on  the  north.     The  one  on  the  south  was  taken  down  before 


quite  common  that  one  or  more  of  the  houfes  fhould  be  built 
efpecially  large  and  flrong,  to  ferve  as  a  refuge  and  a  rallying 
point,  from  which  the  more  effectually  to  repel  Indian  on- 

flaughts.  Many  Hories  and 
bloody  legends  flill  cling  with 
the  old  mofs  and  lichen  to  thefe 
filent  witneffes  of  a  danger- 
fraught  period. 

Important  among  thofe  ftill 
ftanding  are:  the  old  brick 
houfe  of  Governor  Cradock, 
built  about  1634,  at  Medford, 
Mafs. ;  the  ff uccoed  timber 
houfe  of  Governor  Bull,  in  New- 
port, R.  I.,  built  in  1639;  a"d 
the  clapboarded  Minot  home- 
fl;ead,  in  Dorchefter,  Mafs.,  built 
in  1640.  The  fo-called  "Old 
Stone  Houfe  "  ^  (Fig.  i),  finiflied 
in  1640  as  a  parfonage,  at  Guilford,  Conn.,  has  fince  been 
rebuilt  upon  the  original  lines.  The  Red  Horfe  Inn,  at 
Sudbury,   Mafs.,  built  in   1680,  and   made  famous  through 

Jasper  Griffing  bought  the  house  in  1776,  why,  I  do  not  know,  but  the 
wall  was  weakened  by  the  process,  and  two  iron  bars  were  put  in  to 
strengthen  it,  and  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  outside,  unless  covered  with 
vines.  When  the  repairs  were  made  m  1868  all  the  woodwork  of  the 
rear  building  was  saved.  It  was  oak  and  probably  cut  in  1639.  Some 
of  it  was  used  for  the  banister  and  newel  of  the  present  stairs,  which  are 
very  poor  specimens  of  work,  as  the  oak  was  so  hard  that  modern  tools 
could  not  take  hold  of  it.     I  have  some  chairs  made  of  it." 

A  year  or  two  ago  the  Daughters  of  the  American  Kevolutiou  placed 
a  tablet  inscribed  with  the  appropriate  historical  note  in  the  face  of  the 
building. 

2 The  Spencer-Pierce  House  [Garrison  House],  Newiiurvport, 
Mass.  —  "  There  is  considerable  doubt  and  uncertainty  in  regard  to  the 
date  when  this  ancient  stone  house  was  built.  Some  authorities  claim 
that  it  was  erected  by  John  Spencer  between  the  years  1635  ='"d  '637, 
and  others  assert  that  it  was  built  for  his  nephew,  John  Spencer,  Jr.,  be- 
tween 1640  and  1650;  and  still  others  are  of  the  opinion  that  its  first 
owner  and  occupant  was  Daniel  Pieice,  who  bought  the  farm  in  1651. 
Careful  examination  of  the  records  at  Salem,  made  with  special  refer- 
ence to  the  ])reparation  of  this  sketch,  does  not  furnish  sufficient  evidence 
to  determine  the  question  beyond  a  reasonable  doubt;  but  it  has  led  to 
the  discovery  of  some  important  facts,  now  for  the  first  time  published, 
that  may  be  of  assistance  in  arriving  at  the  correct  conclusion.  It 
would  be  impossible  to  give  in  detail  all  the  deeds,  wills,  and  other 
legal  instruments  that  have  been  consulted,  without  extending  this  sketch 
beyond  its  proper  limits;  and  therefore  only  a  brief  outline  of  these 
papers  will  be  inserted  here,  with  such  quotations  and  comments  as  will 
enable  the  reader  to  follow  the  changes  that  have  taken  place  in  the 
ownership  of  this  property  from  1635  to  the  present  time. 

"  When  the  age  of  this  old  house,  with  its  picturesque  exterior,  the 
solid  masonry  of  its  walls,  and  the  men  who  have  owned  and  occupied 
it,  is  considered  and  allowed  to  quicken  the  thought  and  imagination,  it 
tells  an  interesting  story  of  old  Colonial  days.  There  are  few  residences 
in  New  England  that  are  more  attractive  or  fascinating.  Its  style  of 
architecture  is  remarkable,  considering  the  early  date  at  which  it  was 
built.  Its  walls  are  composed  of  several  varieties  of  stone;  and  some  of 
them  must  have  been  brought  from  a  long  distance,  perhaps  by  means 
of  boats  or  rafts  down  the  Merrimack  River.  The  bricks  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  front  porch,  as  well  as  the  square  tile  which  form  the 
floor,  were  jjroblably  brought  from  England.  Brickyards  were  estab- 
lished at  Salem  and  Medford  jirevious  to  16S0;  but  the  finished  product 
of  those  yards  was  of  an  inferior  (|uality,  and  the  size  of  the  bricks  was 
fixed  by  order  of  the  General  Court,  as  follows:  'Every  brick  shall 
measure  9  inches  long,  2)4  inches  thick,  and  4>j  inches  wide.'  Imported 
English  brick  were  much  smaller  and  more  smoothlv  moulded. 

"  ']'he  house  was  built  in  the  form  of  a  cross.  On  the  northern  projec- 
tion, where  the  kitchen  is  located,  a  tall  brick  chimney  rises  from  a  stone 
foundation,  outside  the  rear  wall. 

"'The  great  porch  of  this  old  house,'  WTites  Mrs.  Harriet  Prescott 
Spol'ford,  in  an  article  published  in  Harper's  Mas^aziiie  for  Julv,  1S75,  '  '^ 
said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  architectural  specimen  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  although  it  doubtless  owes  jiart  of  its  beauty  to  the  mellow  and 
varied  coloring  which  two  hundred  years  have  given  it.  Yet  the  bevelled 
bricks  of  its  arches  and  casements  and  the  exquisite  nicety  of  its  orn.a- 
mentation  lead  the  careful  scrntinizer  to  side  with  those  who  dismiss  the 
idea  of  its  having  been  a  garrison  house,  and  to  conjecture  that  that  idea 
gained  currency  from  the  fact  that  it  was  once  used  to  store  powder  in, 
—  a  fact  that  was  fixed  in  the  popular  memory  by  an  explosion  there 
which  blew  out  the  side  of  the  house,  and  landed  an  old  slave  of  the 
occupant  on  her  bed  in  the  boughs  of  an  adjacent  apple-tree.'"  —  From 
"  Oiild  Ncwbiirv"  Bv  John  J.  Currier.  Boston :  Damrell  &  Upham. 
1896. 

*'riiis  sketch,  made  in  i8Si,  shows  the  hmise  without  the  dormers  here  spoken  of, 
which  leaves  it  open  to  doubt  whether  these  features  may  not  be  recent  additions. — 
Ed. 


DOMESTIC  ARCHITECTURE:     THE  NEW  ENGLAND   PROVINCES. 


Longfellow's  "Tales  of  a  IVaysiWe  Irm"  though  not  known 
to  have  ferved  as  a  fort,  refembles  the  preceding  fo  much  as 
to  readily  group  with  them.  The  poet's  words,  defcriptive  of 
this  inn,  will  be  helpful  in  pi6luring  this  clafs  of  houfes  :  — 

"As  ancient  is  this  hostelry 
As  any  in  the  land  may  be, 
Huilt  in  the  old  Colonial  day, 
AVhen  men  lived  in  a  grander  way, 
AVith  ampler  hospitality; 
A  kind  of  old  Hobgoblin  Hall, 
Now  somewhat  fallen  to  decav. 
With  weather  stains  upon  the  wall. 
And  stairways  worn,  and  craggy  doors. 
And  creaking  and  uneven  floors, 
And  chimneys  huge  and  tiled  and  tall." 

Architecturally,  thefe  ftructures  are  very  finiple.  Leaving 
out  tlie  Old  Stone  Houfe,  which  alone  is  irregular  and  pi6b 
urefque,   the    main    elements    are :    a  rectangular    plan,  two 

ftories  and  an  attic,  a  gambrel 
gable  at  each  end,  a  symmetrical 
difpolition  of  openings  and  dor- 
mers, and  an  overhang  of  the 
fecond,  or  of  the  attic  ftory,  for 
defence. 

The  Cradock  Houfe  ^  (Fig.  2), 
typical  in  its  way,  deferves  fpecial 
mention.  It  is  the  oldeil  houfe  Randing  to-day  in  New 
England,  and  as  that  delightful  Chronicler,  Drake,  puts  it, 
"proudly  bears  its  credentials  on  its  weather-beaten  face." 
Though  its  Englidi  owner  never  faw  it,  his  "  fervant  "  was 
confcientious  in  building  it  well.  The  delign  is  thought  to 
have  been  fuggelted  by  Cradock's  London  houfe.  The 
timber  was  hewn  wiihin  a  few  feet  of  the  lite,  the  bricks 
were  burned  on  the  fpot.  Iron  guards  were  built  into  the 
doorways,  and  four  dangerous-looking  loopholes  fliowed  that 
it  was  a  military  houfe  firil  and  a  trading-pofl  and  a  home 
after.  Two  folid  chimneys  fland  guard,  one  at  each  end. 
Two  dormers  relieve  the  long  roof  e.\panfe  of  the  front.  The 
original  windows  were  fniall.  'I'here  is  no  ornament  except 
a  plain  band  at  the  fecond-ftory  level.  Jn  the  main  lines  of 
its  compofition  it  is  Ibikingly  like  the  Hancock  houfe, 
of  Bofton,  of  which  ?i. pseiido  replica  was  ereded  at  the  Colum- 


Flg.  3.     The  Old  Manse,  Concord 
.Mass. 


1  The  Cradock  Hoisk,*  Mkdi  (jKn.  Mass.  —  "  In  the  Historical  Regis- 
ter for  October,  1.S98.  published  by  tlie  Medford  Historical  Society,  are 
articles  by  William  Cushing  Wait  and  Walter  H.  dishing,  which  go  to 
disprove  the  argument  that  the  present  building  is  the  original  home- 
stead. Both  place  the  original  Cradock  House  on  the  spot  wliere  the 
Garrison  House  stands,  back  of  the  Medford  Savings-bank.  The  present 
'Garrison  House'  has  always  been  known  bv  that  name. 

"The  principal  evidence  is  comprised  in  two  early  ma]>s.  The  first 
was  found  among  the  Sloane  manuscripts  in  the  Ilriti'sh  Museum.  It  is 
believed  to  have  been  published  about  1633,  ='"<•  ''^s  marginal  notes  in 
Governor  Winthrop's  hand. 

"I  Tlie  most  important  part  of  the  map  to  us  in  Medford,' says  Mr. 
Wait, 'is  the  house  sketched  near  the  ford,  and  the  word  '  Meadford,' 
with  Governor  Winthro|i's  reference  to  it :  Meadford:  Mr.  Cradock 
ferme  (farm)  house.'  Xo  house  is  iiulnaled  near  the  location  of  the 
building  we  have  so  long  boasted  as  the  Cradock  House,  built  in  1634. 
It  is  true  this  map  is  earlier  than  1634,  but  if  (Jovernor  Cradock's  farm- 
house was  near  the  ford  in  1633  it  is  probable  no  change  was  made  the 
next  year.' 

"The  other  map  is  one  made  by  flovernor  Winthrop  in  1637,  of  his 
farm  at  Ten  Hills,  now  a  part  of  Sonicrville.  This  shows  the  same 
group  of  buildings  near  the  ford  as  the  other  map. 

"  In  an  article  on  'Governor  Cradock's  Plantation,' Walter  II.  Cush- 
ing says : — 

"'From  an  affidavit  in  the  Middlesex  Countv  Court,  in  the  case  of 
Glcison  -■!.  Davison  et  al.,  it  would  appear  tSat  Davison  had  also  pre- 
ceded Mayhewes,  for  Joseph  Hill  testifies  'that  about  1633  Mr.  Nic 
Davison  lived  at  Meadford  House  and  that  Mr.  Mayhcw  did  not  then 
dwell  at  Meadford  House.'  This  affidavit  is  also  interesting  as  showing 
that  in  1633  there  was  a  certain  building  of  sufficient  jirominence  to  be 
designated  as  'Meadford  House.' 

"The  location  of  that  house,  or  of  the  Cradock  House,  if  they  are 
identical,  is  not  absolutely  known.  Tradition  has,  during  the  last  two  or 
three  generations,  liointed  to  the  old  brick  building  on  Riverside  Avenue. 

•Speaking:  of  the  Cradock  HouFe,  Prof.  C  E.  Norton  writes  :  "  \\  Is  more  than  a  mere 
antiquarian  or  archhectnral  curiosity.  It  illustralts  more  vividly  lli.iii  any  other  Iiouse 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Boston  the  condition  and  modes  of  life  of  the  first  generation  of 
Colonists." 


bian  Exhibition,  at  Chicago.  It  would  be  interefbing  to 
know  the  arrangement  of  the  rooms,  but  no  plans  are  acceffi- 
ble.  Even  if  the  prefent  partitioning-off  were  known,  it 
would  be  of  little  value,  owing  to  probable  interior  remodel- 
ling.    Undoubtedly,  the  planning  was  fimple  —  a  multitude 


Fig.  4.     Avery  House,  Pequonnock,  Conn. 

of  clofets,  odd  corners,  and  eafy  ftaircafes  are  modern  con- 
veniences, for  even  the  later  Colonial  houfes,  though  often 
elaborate  and  coflly,  were  seldom  comfortable,  to  our  way  of 
thinking. 

Quite  early  another  —  a  cottage  —  type  was  evolved,  with 
a  long  fweeping  roof  towards  the  rear,  canting  off  a  corner 
of  the  ceiling  of  each  flory  from  the  attic  to  the  kitchen. 
This  type  perlilled  until  quite  recently  and  recurs  in  hun- 
dreds of  cottages  (Figs.  5,  6  and  7)  throughout  New  Eng- 
land. Such  were  the 
childhood  homes  of 
the  P  r  e  fi  d  e  n  t  s 
Adams  (Fig.  5).  It 
was  jull  f  u  c  h  an 
humble  dwelling,  in 
Eaflhampton,  Long 
Island,    whofe    fond 


,S^ 


Fig.  5.     John  Quincy  Adams's  House. 


memories  re-echoed  in  the  heart  of  John  Howard  Payne,  and 
produced  the  fong  of  "  Home,  fweet  Home." 

The  doorway  is  the  only  "  feature."  There  is  ufually  on 
each  fide  of  the  door  a  Claffic  pilafler,  with  a  inould,ed  capi- 

But  tradition  is  notoriously  a  bad  guide,  and,  unsupported  by  evidence, 
is  as  often  wrong  as  right.  Facing  page  120  of  this  number  of  the  Regis- 
ter is  a  reproduction  of  a  map  of  Governor  Winthrop's,  supposed  by 
critics  to  havelieen  made  about  1634.  The  jjlace  marked  '  Mr.  Cradock's 
farme  house,'  does  not  corrusi)ond,  even  making  due  allowance  for  in- 
accuracies, to  the  neighborhood  of  the  Kiversicle  Avenue  house,  but  is 
considerably  farther  up  the  river,  as  can  be  seen  by  referring  to  the  road 
from  Salem  to  the  ford  at  the  Mystic.  Moreover,  it  is  at  the  head  of 
navigation  of  the  river.  Far  more  definite,  however,  than  this  map  is 
that  of  Winthrop's  farm  at  Ten  Hills.  Medford  is  shown  as  a  group  of 
buildings  situated  near  the  northern  end  of  the  bridge.  \o  other  build- 
ings are  given,  and  the  half-dozen  on  the  map  apparently  belong  to  one 
estate.  Now,  in  163",  Medford  and  Governor  Cradock's  farm  were  iden- 
tical. Furthermore,  as  Winthrop  and  Cradock  were  close  friends,  such 
a  jirominent  building  as  the  latter's  house  would  not  be  (unitted,  if  anv 
buildings  were  given.  Here,  then,  it  seems  to  me,  is  almost  conclusive 
evidence  of  the  location  of  the  house  near  the  square.  So  much  from 
the  maps. 

"'  In  his  will  Cradock  does  not  specify  the  number  or  location  of  the 
buildings  bequeathed  ;  neither  do  the  heirs  when  they  convey  to  Edward 
Collins.  But  when  the  latter,  in  i66t,  sells  1,600  .acres  of  the  farm  to 
Richard  Russell,  the  limit  on  the  east  is  set  by  the  old  Nowell  and  Wil- 
son (then  Blanchard)  farms,  while  the  western  boundary  is  a  brook  west 
of  the  Mansion  House.  This  brook  ran  out  of  a  swamp  near  the  north- 
ern line  between  Charlestown  and  the  farm,  and,  according  to  the  dimen- 
sions and  known  boundaries  t>f  the  conveyance,  must  have  been  Meeting 
House  Brook.  When  Russell,  in  1669,  sells  Jonathan  Wade  three- 
quarters  of  this  tract  he  reserves  the  fourth,  lying  next  to  the  Blanchard 
farm  {/.  e.,  Wellington)  and  farthest  from  the  dwelling-house.  When 
Jonathan  Wade  died,  in  16.S9,  the  inventory  of  his  property  included  a 
brick  house  near  the  bridge;  and  that  house  is  still  standing,  north  of 
the  savings-bank.  Now,  it  does  not  at  all  follow  that  these  three  build- 
ings are  identical,  but  it  is  certain  that  the  principal  house,  the  dwelling 
or  mansion  house  of  this  estate,  from  the  time  of  Collins  to  Wade,  was 
in  the  neighborhood  of  Medford  S<|uare.' 

'  'To  sum  up:  I.  No  evidence  has  been  brought  to  light  for  the  house 
on  Riverside  Avenue.  2.  What  evidence  tliere  is  jjtiints  to  a  liouse  near 
the  square.  3.  The  Ten  Hills  farm  map  suggests  strongly  the  iite  of  the 
present  Garrison  House,  if  not  the  liouse  itself.'  " 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


tal,  fupporting  a  plain  cornice  with  a  pediment.      Even  this      lowing  are  noteworthy :   tlie  Pepperell  manfion,  at  Kittery, 
fimple  feature  is  often  omitted.  Maine,  begun  about  1720,  and  confifcated  after  the  Revolu- 

To  this  period  belong  the  hiltoric  Witch  Houfe,  in  Salem, 


.M^^^  t^5 
'^^  T^^' 


Fig    6.    Old  House  at  Pigeon  Cove,  Mass.    Built  in  1643. 

and  the  home  of  Paul   Revere,  in   Bofton,  neither  of  which 
groups  readily  with  any  of  the  above. 

The  peace  and  commercial  profperity,  which  fet  in  about 
1730,  flimulated  building  aftivity.  The  flirewder  merchants, 
having  amaffed  confiderable  fortunes  by  traffic  in  (laves, 
lumber,  fifh,  tea  and  Erglifli  (luffs,  fet  themfelves  to  the 
pleafing  tafk  of  fpending  their  gains.  \A'hat  better  could  they 
do  than  to  ereft  commodious 
houfes?  Some  profeffional  men 
and  fome  landed  proprietors, 
too,  had  become  wealthy,  and 
vied  with  ihefe  merchants  in 
their  building  enterprifes.  The 
ordinary  material  was  wood  ;  that 
is,  houfes  were  conflructed  of  an 
open  framework  of  timber  and 
covered  with  clapboards,  or  fome- 
times  with  fliingles.  Brick  was 
rarely  employed,  except  in  the 
larger  towns. 

Many,  efpecially  the  earlier 
hcufes,  feem  lo  have  been  fug- 
gefled  by  Governor  Cradock's 
military  home,  or  by  others  fimi- 
lar.     By    degrees    the    gambrel 


Fig.  8.     Old  House  at  Farmington,  Conn.    Built  about  1700. 

tion  with  its  thirty  miles  of  property  ;  the  Hancock  manfion, 
at  Bofton,  begun  in  1737  ;  the  birthplace  of  General  I'utnam, 
at  Danvers,  Mafs.,  built  partly  in  1650  and  partly  in  1744; 
and  the  often-illuftrated  "King"  Hooper  houfe,  alfo  at 
Danvers,  which  was,  in  many  things,  a  copy  in  wood  of"  the 
Hancock  houfe.  The  Hancock  houfe,  now  a  memory  only, 
though  one  of  the  oldeft,  was  one  of  the  beft.     It  was  a  ftone 

building,  fo  folidly  eredled  as  to 
require  blafting  when  torn  down. 
Thomas  Hancock  began  it  in 
1737.  Having  become  im- 
menfely  wealthy,  for  thofe  days, 
'f^'-^ti  (hrougii  fkilful  trading,  he  felt 
that  Bofton  was  getting  too 
crowded  for  him.  Juft  outfide 
its  limits  he  found  a  fine  hill  over- 
looking the  bay.  Hereheftaked 
out  his  houfo,  fifty-fix  feet  wide. 
When  completed,  he  improved 
the  grounds  with  walks  and  gar- 
dens. The  entrance,  in  the  mid 
die  of  the  front,  was  protedled  by 
a  balcony,  opening  from  the  wide 
hallway  of  the  fecond  ftory.  On 
the  fides  were  two  large  windows 
Three  dormers  lighted  the  attic.     A  modillion 


Fig.  P.     Old  Cottage,  Portsmouih,  N".  11 

roof  was  eliminated.  Firft,  the  hipped  or  the  manfard  roof  in  each  ftory. 
came  into  vogue,  from  about  1760  to  1790.  This  was  in  turn  cornice,  returning  on  itfelf  at  the  ends,  marked  the  tranfition 
fuperseded  by  the  flat  deck,  towards  the  clofe  of  the  century,  from  the  wall  to  the  roof.  A  baluftrade  of  neat  fpindles  fur- 
Of  courfe,  examples  of  each  overlap,  the  gambrel  type  being  rounded  entirely  the  upper  and  flatter  flope  —  a  connecting 
fpecially  perfiftent  ;  but  the  general  tendency  will  be  clearly  chain  from  chimney  to  chimney,  juftified  only  by  the  happy 
(hown,  in  an  appended  chronological  table.  way  in  which  it  crowned  the  whole.     The  corners  and  open- 

The  gambrel  roof  is,  no  doubt,  the  refult  of  an  effort  to     ings   were   trimmed   with  white   ftone  quoins.     The  details 

were   refined    and   the    ornament   fparing,   but    appropriate. 

Altogether,  it  was  a  roomy,  well-deiigned  and  dignified  lioufe, 


mm 


Hr-s   i-|il-    ^—B  'r  "PS^    Sff-?p;- 


Fig.  7.      Itradstreet  House,  Andover,  Mass. 


Fig.  to.    The  Vassall-Craigie-Longfellow  House,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  1759. 


secure  additional  height  in  the  attic  fpace.  Though  the  oldeft,  exactly  fuited  to  be  the  manfion  of  the  firlt  gentleman  of  the 
it  is  the  moft  graceful  and  pleafing,  avoiding  the  box-like  Commonwealth,  and  through  hini  and  his  illuftrious  nephew, 
effe6t  and  hard  lines  of  the  other  two.     Of  tiiis  type,  the  fob      John  Hancock,  to  extend  its  ftately  hofpitality  to  the  greateft 


DOMESTIC  ARCHITECTURE:    THE  NEW  ENGLAND  PROVINCES. 


5 


men  of  the  clay.      It  lacked  many  iniportant  features.     Thus 

there  were  no  fpacious  verandas,  no  two-ftoried  pilafters,  and 

no  gable  over  the  front  entrance.     The  fecond,  or  nianfard 

type,  is  more  ClafTic,  prefenting  on  all  fides  a  predominance  of 

horizontal  lines.     But  the  elements  of  the 

defign   are  virtually  the  fame.     The   roof 

balustrade  is  ufually,  as  it  fhould  be,  placed 

around  the  flat  deck  on  top.     Sometimes  it 

occurs  at  the  bafe  of  the  flope. 

The  Vaffall  manfion  (Fig.   lo),  built  in 

1759,  at  Cambridge,  Mafs.,  and  fmce  1837 

the  home  of  Longfellow,  is  a  fplendid  ex- 
ample  of    this   clafs.      The    large    Oliver 

house,  at  Dorchefter,  Mafs.,  built  in  1740, 

the  birthplace  of  Edward  Everett,  is  alfo  a 
worthy  ftruclure,  in  fpite  of  its  lleep  box- 
like roof  and  lack  of  verandas.  The 
Quincy  manfion,  Quincy,   Mafs.,   built  in 

1770,  is  quite  remarkable  with  its  attic 
rifing  like  a  clereftory  above  the  outfide 
walls.  Many  other  prominent  examples 
could  be  quoted. 

The  flat-roofed  houfes  (Fig.  12),  forming 
the  third  clafs,  are  lefs  interelling.  The 
details  are  ftiff,  and  there  is  a  tendency  to 
formalifm.  Many  of  tiiefe  are  three  ftories 
in  height.  In  Boflon,  they  were  often  four 
ftories  high  and  of  brick.  There  is  in  this 
type  a  certain  meagrenefs.  The  porches 
are  fmall  and  bare,  the  columns  few  and 
flender.  Evidently,  the  original  infpiration 
had  begun  to  fail,  and  there  was  a  flriving 
for  new  effects. 

The  birthplace  and  home  of  Lowell, 
known  as  "Elmwood,"  at  Cambridge,  is  as  fine  and  typical 
an  example  of  this  clafs  as  is  Longfellow's  of  the  preceding. 
"Elmwood"  is  three  flories  high,  the  upper  flory,  however, 
more  like  a  mezzanine  (  Fig.  111.  It  Hands  charmingly  among 
high  trees  planted  by 
the  poet's  father. 

Naturally  enough, 
few  names  of  defign- 
ers  have  been  handed 
down.  It  is,  there- 
fore, a  pleafure  to  re- 
cord fome.  William 
Spratz,  a  Heffian  fol- 
dier,  was  the  architedt 
of  the  Deming  house, 
at  Litchfield,  Conn., 
built  in  1790.  It  has 
a  low  manfard  roof, 
with  a  baluftrade  jufl 
over  the  cornice. 
The  middle  portion 
(lightly  projecting  and 
finiflied  with  a  pedi- 
ment, has,  in  the 
fecond  flory,  a  fine 
I'alladian  window, 
very  fimilar  to  one 
found  in  a  brick  houfe 

at   Annapolis,  Md. 


rS 


isnttiL 


Fijf.  11.     Elmwood,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

early  in  the  Kiphteenth  Onttiry. 


The  mere  facl;  that  Spratz  was  a  foldier  throws  fome  light 
upon  the  flatus  of  the  architectural  profeffion.  The  Pro- 
vinces poffeffed,  we  might  fay,  no  educated  archite6ls.  Moft 
houfes  were  the  refult  of  collaboration  of  owner  and  village 
carpenter.  The  one  furniflied  the  general 
plan  and  ideas,  the  other  worked  out  the 
details.  Thus  I^r.  Ayrault,  in  1739,  fpeci- 
fied  in  his  contracf,  ftill  exiiling,  that  the 
builders  were  to  provide  a  hood  over  the 
entrance,  and  to  fupport  the  fame  on  carved 
brackets  (Fig.  13).  Such  notices,  and 
fome  accidentally  preferved  books  on  the 
Orders,  by  Swan,  Pain,  Langley  and 
others,  indicate  that  the  Colonial  mechanic 
was  more  than  a  mere  fkilful  tool.  He 
expended  thought  in  devifing  practical 
methods  for  executing  in  wood  Claflic 
features  and  details  originally  defigned  for 
floiie  conltruclion.  Many  characleriftics, 
fuch  as  a  tendency  to  increafe  the  propor- 
tional height  of  the  columns  (fig.  14),  and 
details  like  the  one  illuftrated  in  Plgure  15, 
may  be  traced  to  thefe  efforts. 

FKATURF.S. 

A  few  words  on  each  of  the  more  im- 
portant features  will  ferve  to  give  a  clearer 
idea  of  what  good  Colonial  refidences 
really  were :  — 

The  entrance,  which  ought  to  be  one  of 
the  principal  external  features,  was  never 
neglected  by  the  Colonial  builders.  A 
fliell  hood,  carried  on  brackets,  jull  over 
the  pilafter-llanked  door  was  a  common 
and  fimple  device  1  Fig.  13).  The  idea  was  directly  borrowed 
from  England,  there  adapted  from  the  upper  part  of  a 
niche. 

More    frequently  the   pilafters    fupport    a  cornice   and    a 

pediment.     In  the  beft 


Huilt 


examples  the  details 
are  carefully  wrought, 
with  carved  Corinthian 
or  Ionic  capitals.  The 
Ionic  capitals  ufually 
have  Coinpofite  fcrolls, 
a  variety  often  occur- 
ring in  Colonial  work. 
Sometimes  the  modil- 
lions,  too,  were  carved, 
but  more  often  they 
were  left  plain,  as  in 
Figure  20. 

Another  device  was 
to  leave  the  doorway 
itfelf  very  fimple,  and 
flank  it  with  femi-de- 
tached  columns  or  pi- 
lafters rising  through 
two  ftories,  as  in  Long- 
fellow's houfe  (Fig. 
lot.  Often,  though 
not  always,  pilafters 
were  placed  on  or  near 
(See  Fig.  75,)  The  details  are  very  correct  and  elegant,  as  the  houfe  corners  alfo.  This  high  order  involved  fo  wide  a 
though  defigned  with  "Vignola"  in  the  hand.  The  general  frieze  in  the  entablature  that  it  was  either  entirely  omitted, 
effea  is  pleafing,  except  that  the  cornice  lacks  a  frieze,  which        7Ti;7^^7^arT7)T;;u;;^^as  ,n,iied  down  ■„  ,s,,37,7^.elioiiu  street  chi^S^ui; 

gives  it  the  appearance  of  having  funk   into  the  wall.  t,iwerremDve!l,  wasln  1HS5  remodelled  into  a  theatre. —  K.h 


Fig.  12. 


The  Bradlee  or  "  Boston  Tea-Party"  House,'  1771,  and  the  Hollis  Street  Church.  1810,  Boston, 

Mass. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


or  it  occurred  only  over  the  columns  or  pilaflers.  In  fonie 
rare  inftances  the  frieze  is  wide  enough  to  permit  of  an 
additional  low  ftory  on  a  level  with  it. 


4^  Ij  I'l-.-'""!'. 


Fig.  13.     Hood,  Ayrault  House,  Newport,  R.  I. 

A  ftep  toward  greater  elaboration  was  lo  add  columns  in 
front  of  thofe  againll  the  wall,  and  thus  to  produce  a  fmall 
portico,  ufually  of  flight  projection  (Fig.  14  A,  B).  Old 
buildings  in  New  Haven  and  in  other  Connecticut  towns 
fhow  an  ingenious  adaptation  of  Michael  Angelo's  device  in 
ihe  Farnefe  Palace,  at  Rome,  where  the  frieze  of  the  entabla- 
ture over  each  window  is  cut  into  by  the  opening  (Fig.  17). 
Many  fmall  porches  by  this  means  gain  fufticient  height  for 
the  doorway  without  crowding  the  pediment  above  the 
fecond-ftory  window-fills  —  a  clever  folution  of  a  frequently 
recurring  problem.  A  variation'  was  to  omit  the  free  columns 
and  to  let  the   porch  extend  as  a  hood   over  the  entrance 

(Figs.  18,  19).  Thefe 
fchemes,  however,  were 
not  fufficiently  elaborate 
for  all  owners,  and  many 
entrance-porches  were 
developed  into  elaborate 
verandas,  the  columns,  in 
fome  cafes,  difpofed  with 
much  ingenuity  (Fig.  14 
C,E). 

The  two-rtory  veranda, 
with  coloflal  columns, 
though  not  common,  oc- 
curs in  fome  inftances. 
Count  Rumford's  houfe, 
at  Woburn,  Mafs.,  has 
c-     ,A    /A>T)-       Tj  .0,      ,.         fuch    a   porch,    with    the 

Fig.  14.    (A)  Pierce  House,  1780,  Salem,  Mass.  '-  ' 

(li)Hurd    House,    ,795,   Cliarlestown,    IVlass.      additional    dcvicC    of     the 
(C)  (governor    l,anjidon    Hr)use,    1784,    l*orts- 

moutii.  N.  H.    (I))  Mount  Griddeii  House,    fecond  flory  Carried  on  a 

iXrjo,  Cliarlestown,  Mass.    (E)  'J'ucker  House. 

iHr.H,    Salem,    Mass.      (K)  Count    Rumford's      finaller    Order,     filllilar    tO 

House,  Woburn,  Mass. 

to  the  main  order  (Fig. 
14  F).  It  need  hardly  be  faid  that  thefe  coloffal  orders  are 
a  failure,  for,   if  two-fiory  pilailers  againfl  the  wall  dwarf  the 


entire  flructure,  free-ftanding  columns,  gaining    prominence 
by  proje6tion,  have  the  fame  effedt  to.  a  greater  degree. 
Many  Colonial  verandas  are  of  generous  proportions,  cool 


Fig.  15.     Window  Finish,  etc.  Fig.  16.     Doortiead,  Portsmouth,  N.  H. 

and  inviting.  Often,  as  in  Longfellow's  home,  there  are  two, 
though  not  always,  as  in  this  cafe,  balancing  one  another.^ 

Much  attention  was  beftowed  upon  the  doorways.  It  was 
ufual  to  enclofe  the  doors  with  a  framing  of  glafs  —  tranfoms 
and  fide-lights  —  of  great  variety  in  treatment  though  funda- 
mentally the  fame  in  idea.'^ 

The  main  cornice  is,  in  general,  well  proportioned  to  the 
building:  fmaller  in  the  earlier  examples,  in  which  it  ferves 


Fig.  17.     Porch,  Litchfield,  Conn 


Fig.  18.     Porch  of  the  Taylor  House, 
Roxbury,  Mass, ,  1790, 


merely  as  a  tranfition  to  the  roof,  than  in  the  later  ftruCture, 
where  it  is  itfelf  the  crowning  member.  In  fedtion,  it  is 
commonly  bafed  upon  the  Corinthian,  though  the  modillions 
are  feldom  carved.  Under  the  brackets,  there  is,  in  the  beft 
examples,  a  row  of  dentils,  giving  life  and  variety  to  the 
whole.  The  omilfion  of  the  frieze  and  the  ufe  of  cololTal 
orders  have  already  been  mentioned. 

Roof-baluflrades   are   of   two   varieties.     One   confifls   of 


ISee  Plate  19,  I'arl  IV. 


Fig.  18a.     Taylor  House,  Roxbury,  Mass.,  1790.    Pulled  down  in  1S9-. 

light  turned,  or  carved,  fpindles,  with  larger  ones  on    the 
corners  and  at  intervals  of  fifteen  or  twenty  of  the  fmaller 

-The   side  verandas  were  not   parts  of  the  original  house,  but  were 
added  by  Mr.  Longfellow.  —  Ed. 

"  See  Plates  39,  40,  41,  Part  II  and  Plate  7,  Part  III. 


DOMESTIC  ARCHITECTURE:  NEW  ENGLAND  FEATURES. 


ones.  Someiinies  fquare  pedeftals  take  their  places.  The 
other  variety  confifts  of  feme  pattern  of  open  lattice-work,  in 
panels  between  pedeftals.     Figure  21  illuftrates  both  varieties- 

The    corners    gain 


ftriking  features.  It  is  ftrange  that  there  was  fo  little  of 
effort  for  variety  by  giving  the  dormer  greater  breadth,  and 
adding  mullions,  or  even  by  developing  it  into  a  prominent 


an  appearance  of 
(Irength  by  the  ufe 
of  pi  1  a  fters  or  of 
quoins.  In  feveral 
initances,  the  imita- 
tion courfes  of  quoins 
are  continued  acrofs 
the  whole  facade,  fo 
as  to  fimulate  ftone 
rullication.  Old 
"  King  "  Hooper  was 
not  above  pretending 
to  live  in  a  ftone 
houfe.  This  fpirit  of 
pretention  was  the 
logical  refult  of  the 
one  which  confidered 
it  unbecoming  to  live 
in  a  log  houfe,  and  fo 
concealed  the  logs 
with  clapboards  or 
witli  flringles.  But 
c  1  a  p  1)  o  a  r  d  s  and 
(hingles  had  better  excufe,  for  they  were  ufeful  in  keeping 
out  the  cold. 

A  review  of  the  exterior  features  would  be  incomplete 
without  a  reference  to  the  fo-called  Palladian  windows.  A 
treatment  of  large  openings,  liniilar  to  that  of  Figure  75, 
from  Maryland,  occurred  quite  frequently  in  the  New  l.ng- 
land  and  Middle  colonies.  Ultimately,  the  idea  is  derived 
from  Palladio's  ingenious  device  of  two  columns  and  two 
pilafters  with  an  arch  between  the  columns  of  a  larger  order. 
An  interefting  variety  existed  in  the  old  15ofton  Library 
(Fig.  22). 

Other  windows  are  fimply  treated  —  often  enclofed  with 
fome  mouldings  and  a  light  cap  over.  An  ingenious  varia- 
tion, from  MafTachufetts,  is  illuftrated  in  Figure  15. 

The  treatment  of  dormers,  too,  is  fimple.  Ufually  they 
are  narrow  and  high,  crowned  with  plain  fteep  pediments, 


Fig.  19.     A  Doorway  in  Providence,  R.  I. 


Fig.  20.    I'orcliot  tlie  Hurd  House,  Charlestown,  Miisa.,  179S. 

Ibmetimes  alternating  with  round  or  broken  ones.  Flat- 
roofed  dormers  were  rare.  The  bold  projections  of  the 
dortners   from  the   roof   conftitute   them    one    of   the    moll 


Fijf.  21.  {A)  From  Governor  Langdon's  House,  1784,  Portsmouth,  N.  H.  (B)  Troni 
King  Hooper's  House,  1754,  TJanvers,  Mass.  (C)  From  Hall  House,  17S5,  Medford, 
Mass.     (1>)  From  Count  Runiford's  House,  Woburn,  Mass. 

gable.     The  gable  (Fig.  23)  from  Count  Rumford's  houfe  is 
quite  unique. 

Color  is  the  only  other  exterior  feature  worthy  of  remark. 
Modern  imitators  would  lead  us  to  believe  that  it  was  uni- 
verfal  to  paint  the  ground  a  darker,  ufually  a  yellow,  color,  and 

pick    out     the    trimmings    in 


white.  But  few  photographs 
fhow  this  —  the  color  ufually 
being  a  monotonous  white. 
There  are  even  fome  in- 
ftances  in  which  the  trim- 
mings are  darker  than  the 
ground.  An  indefatigable 
inquirer  tells  us  that  origi- 
nally Venetian  red  was  uni- 
verfal.  Yellow  and  v.hite 
came  later.  By  carefully 
fcraping  off  the  succefTne 
coats  of  paint  red  was  found 
to  underlie  the  others. 

In    brick    buildings    the 


Fig.  22.    The  Old  Library,  P.oston,  Mass. 
Charles  Itultinch,  Architect. 


trimmings  were  of  white  ftone  or  quite  often  wood  painted 
white,  pleafmgly  coiitrafting  with  the  general  red  tone. 

INTERIORS. 

In  the  interior,  the  ftaircafe-hall,  with  its  generous  allot- 
ment of  room,  is  quite  remarkable.  The  hall  can  be  made 
the  moft  effective  of  all  the  rooms,  for  it  has  the  firft  and  the 
laft  chance  to  make  a  good  iniprefiion  upon  the  vifitor.  The 
value  of  this  was  not  loft  fight  of,  fince  Colonial  houfes  feem 
to  be  the  very  embodiment  of  welcome  and  generofity. 


•  «l  (•  r«  »•■"«•  •!'  ™  ».™.'r.".,"".".",,""","..~'.?^.t."™.".' 
Fig.  23.     Rear  Dormer:  Count  P.umford's  House,  Woburn,  Mass. 

The  ftairs  are  broad  and  the  treads  eafy,  with  neat  turned, 
or  often  hand-carved,  fcroll,  balullers  and  newels.  In  fome 
of  the  bert  examples  carved  brackets  decorated  each  tread. 


THE    GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


limilar  to  that  Ihown  by  Figure  80,  from  the  South.  The 
modern  idea  of  having  one  or  two  intermediate  landings  was 
rarely  ufed. 

The   ceilings  often    have  a  richly  moulded    cornice  with 


Hig.  24.     From  the  Governor  Lang- 
don  House,  Portsmoiiih,  N.  H. 


Fig.  25.     From    the  Hodge's  House, 
Salem,  Mass. 


Corinthian  modillions.  The  flat  furface  i.s  fometimes  deco- 
rated with  fonie  pattern  ornament  in  plaller  (Fig.  29^  though 
it  was  more  often  left  plain.  .\  fiiiiilar  treatment  is  fome- 
times applied  to  the  foffit  of  the  Hairs. 

The  walls  were  wainlcotted,  after  the  Knglilh  manner, 
ufually  three  feet  high  or  fo,  though  often  all  the  way  up  to 
the  ceiling,  in  large  panels  of  wood.  In  fome  of  the  bert 
houfes  Dutch  fcenic  wall-paper  was  preferred. 

The  fireplaces,  with  their  mantelpieces  often  carried  up  to 
the  ceiling,  are  the  main  features  of  the  other  rooms.  Thefe 
mantels  are  remarkable  for  delicacy  in  ornament  and  in 
detail.  The  orders  often  ufed  to  fupport  the  flielf  are,  with 
the  greateft  propriety,  attenuated,  fometimes  to  even  twice 
the  ufual  number  of  diameters,  or  even  more.  Much  hand- 
carving  occurs,  fuch  as  delicate  fluting,  balls,  beads,  eggs-and- 
darts,  figures  and  geometric  patterns,  and  a  very  charming, 
low-relief  ornament,  bafed  upon  the  decorative  work  of  the 
brothers  Adam,  in  England  (Figs.  26,  29).  French  rococo 
ornament  is  to  be  found  in  fome  very  rare  inflances  onlv. 

It  is  worthy  of    notice,  that    though    the    Italian    rococo 


ings,  the  twifted  baluflers,  and  in  fome  broken  pediments. 
The  Colonial  flyle,  though  adapted  from  ClafTic  motives, 
never  became  very  formal,  and  fo  never  felt  the  need  of  a 
reaftion.     This  ftyle  did  not  fuccumb  through  the  throwing 


^y    ..^ 


Fig.  27.     From  Litchfield, 
Conn. 


Fig.  28.     From   the   Jaffrey 
House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H. 


off  of  all  reftraint,  but  through  the  Greek  revival  and  through 
the  almoft  fimultaneous  fecond  flood  of  immigration  in  the 
beginning  of  this  century. 

The  treatment  of  the  door  and  window  finifh  exhibits 
almofl:  every  variety  which  the  Renaiffance  has  bequeathed 
to  us.  Flanking  pilaflers  with  plain,  broken  or  carved  pedi- 
ments occur  frequently.  If  any  one  thing  can  be  faid  to  be 
charatleriflic,  it  is  the  decoration  of  the  panels,  either  carved 
or  of  putty,  with  motives  jult  fpoken  of  as  borrowed  from 
the  brothers  Adam  (Figs.  30,  31).  Ultimately,  they  are 
bafed  upon  Roman  fefloons.     The  modelling  is  fo  exquifite, 

and  they  are,  moreover,  capable 
of  fo  much  variety  in  difpofition 
as  to  juftify  the  eagernefs  with 
which  the  Colonifls  ufed  them. 
Happy,  indeed,  is  the  evolution 
of  the  heavy  Roman  feftoon  to 
a  firing  of  forget-me-nots,  each 
fmaller  than  the  preceding, 
each  feftoon  bound  to  the  next 
with  a  delicate  ribbon.  The 
door  finifli  defigns  (Figs.  30,  31) 
are  well  worthy  of  emulation. 
Of  neceflity,  all  the  peculiarities  have  not  been  pointed 
out,  nor,  indeed,  have  all  types  been  referred  to.  The 
reader's  mind  has  perhaps  reverted  tc  tales  of  romance  which 
have  endued  Colonial  life  with  abiorbing  interefl.  "  The 
House  of  Seven  Gables"  (Fig.  32)  may,  in  advance,  have  fug- 
gefted  a  complete  picture  ;  a  picture  full  of  turrets  and  gables 
and  all  manner  of  broken  fky-lines,  but  nothing  of  fimple, 
dignified,  Claflical  fronts.  But  Hawthorne,  according  to 
his  fen's  biography,  had  little  fenfe  of  locality  or  tafle  for 
abfolutely  corredt  defcription.     Though  he  did  not  invent  his 


Fig.  29.     Plaster  Ceiling,  Salem,  Mas: 


Fig.  26.     I'r.rtion  <if  an 


Fig.  30.     Doorway,  Salem,  Mass.  Fig.  J!.     Parlor     Door,     Nicholson- 

'  Ceiling.     Period  from  1760.  Pierce  House,  Salem,  Mass.,  1780. 

fpread  to  moft  countries  and  flamped  its  charadeiiftics  upon  architecture,  he  did  that  which  is  hardly  lefs  deceptive:  he 

every   branch   of   art,  the    New  England   Colonies   efcaped  picked  out  exceptional   cafes   and  altered  thefe  to  fuit  his 

almoft  unharmed.     Rococo  as  a  period  of  art  was  in  them  fancy,  which  found  but  little  of  value  in  Claflic  fynimetry. 
unknown.     Some  inflances  of  rococo  are  found  in  the  ceil-  Pidurefquenefs,  though  not  a  charaaeriftic,  is  not  entirely 


iVElF  ENGLAXD    CHURCHES. 


lacking  It  occurs  molUy  in  cottages,  fome  of  which,  with 
their  prim  gables,  feem  magically  tranfported  from  England. 
Another  fource  of  piclurefquenefs  is  that  of  gradual  addition 
to  a  fmall  nucleus,  as  in  Figure  4.  Peter  Avery  had  bought 
a  condemned  church  and  this  he  tried  to  incorporate  with 
the  older  part  of  his  home.     The  refult  is  certainly  quaint. 

We  have  in  the  preceding  confidered  a  feries  of  homes  of 
the  people,  ftruclures' far  lefs  pretentious  than,  and,  there- 
fore, not  comparable  with,  the  palaces  of  Italy,  the  chateau.\; 
of  France,  or  the  manors  of  England.  Although  every  detail 
of  our  Colonial  work  might  be  traced  to  fome  European 
prototype,  the  general  refemblance  is  flight.  '1  ime,  diftance 
and  materials  contributed  on  this  fide  of  the  water  to  pro- 
duce a  ftyle  of  doinefl:ic  architecture  of  marked  individuality, 
dignified  without  being  formal,  pure,  fiinple,  homelike  and 
peerlefs.  Peerlefs  —  yes;  for,  whether  it  be  that  this  is  the 
only  domeft!c  architecture  worthy  of  much  confideration,  or 
that  only  Americans  have  thought  it  worth  while  to  ftudy  the 


/">N- 


Fig.  32.     House  of  Seven  Gables.    RoRcr  Williams  House,  1635. 

houfes  of  their  forefathers,  it  is  a  fac1:  that  no  other  (lyle  is 
nearly  fo  fully  recorded,  or  illullrated  in  fo  abundant  a 
literature. 

Pfl'.LIC    AKCHITECIURK  :    CHUkCHKS. 

But  ihere  was  other  building  than  that  of  dwellings.  Some 
public  flructures  flill  remain,  and  many  have  been  demolilhed 
to  be  replaced  by  later  buildings.  It  is  a  pleafure  to  note 
that  the  general  fentiment  is  now  flrong  for  preferving  the 


*A    CHHoNoiJ 


I'ABl.R    OK    S'lMK    IMVcKTANT    MIW    KNt.LAMJ         <<iI,i'MAr. 
RESIDKNf  ES. 


Building. 

I>ate. 

Location. 

Authority. 

Ro<jf. 

Cradock   Ilou^e 

''-34 

Mrdford,  Mass 

Drake      .... 

Oambrel. 

Standish       "      

163'j 

Duxbiiry,       '*    

Vetitury .... 

•' 

Bull              "      

'&3'> 

Newport.  R.  T 

A  lit.  Arch,. 

" 

Minot  Homestead 

1^40 

Doicliesler,  Mass 

Drake 

(lable.. 

The  Ked  Horse  Inn.. 

i^fo 

SMdbu.v.           ••     

<  Janibrel 

Old  Indian  House 

i6,Ho 

Deerfi.ld.          '*     

*'       

C.aMe.. 

Grant                *'      ■••■ 

about  1770 

Newport.  R.  I 

Attt.  Arch.. 

Cambrel. 

Warrcr            "      ... 

1723 

Pnrismniilli,  N.  11.  .-■ 

PIlolO 

" 

Peprercll         '*      

'725 

Kitierv.  Me 

l)rake 

" 

Thompson       *'      

1730 

Wobiirn,            Mass. 

Am.  Arch.. 

" 

Walker             ••      .... 

"734 

Concord,               '*     ■  ■- 

"           *■ 

Hancock         '*     .. 

1737 

Bttsion,                  "     . 

Drake 

" 

Hobgoblin  Hall 

1740 

Medlord.                "... 

" 

I»alion   House 

1740 

D'-rcIiestrr,          "     .- 

Mansard 

Evereit       "      

<74o 

Newburvport,      "     . 

Photo 

Cambrel 

Putnam      "      

'744 

Daiivers,                '*     ... 

Drake 

" 

Adam^i        "      

1750 

Uuincv,                  "    ... 

•'       

" 

Wclb  Place 

1752 

WeaihrrsfitK!    Conn... 

Am.  Arch.. 

" 

Hooper      House 

1754 

Danvf  rs.       Mass 

Drake..    .    . 

'• 

Vassall            "      

175') 

Cambridge,      "    

1  hoto 

Mansard 

Derby               *'      

i7''0 

Salem                 " 

14 

(iambrcl 

Bannister       '•      .■• 

between 

N.-wpt)rt,  R    I 

A  m    Arch. . 

"' 

Vernon           "      ... 

i7<;o 

"                " 

Mansard 

Oibbs             "     ... 

and 

"                 "    

"          " 

Hazard           "     ...j 

1776 

•*                *•    

.(          (t 

Flat 

Quincy           '*     

'770 

Quincy,              Mass.  .. 

Drake 

Pierce            "     .••-■ 

17'^ 

.Salem,                      "     ..■ 

IMiMiu 

"    

'■  Elmwood  "         

about  i7!<o 

Cambridge,           "     ... 

■'    

Babwn        House 

1781 

Nrwbnrvpnrt,      "     ... 

"       

*'    

Lanedon          " 

Hall                "      .... 

i-lU 

Portsmouth,  N.  H 

"       

Mansard 

17S5 

Medford,          Mass...- 

"       ...... 

(uiMibrel 

Hall                *'      .... 

1789 

'                       "     . . . . 

"        

Mansard 

Taylor             "      .... 

'79^ 

Weymoulh,         "     .... 

"       

Flat, 

Arnold            "      

17*/* 

Bost(.t.,                 "     .... 

*'       

Mansard 

Hurd               "      .... 

1795 

Charlcstown,      '*    .... 

'*        

Flat 

Appleton         " 

about  I  Hog 

Boston,                 *'     

"       

"    

Carrington       '*      

*•       1800 

Providence,  R.  I 

"       

Baldwin          "      

Hodge              "      .... 
Oti»               •'      ... 

Salem    Mass- . . . 

.1 

i*ioo 

Boston.     "     

"        

"    .    ... 

few  old-time  mementos  we  flill  have.  Several  have  been 
reflored.  Thefe  are,  however,  rarely  of  much  iiitrinfic  value, 
polTeffing,  as  tliey  do,  little  of  originality,  and  being  generally 
poor  copies  of  tranfatlantic  works. 
After  confiderable  fearching,  I 
have  found  but  fcanty  material. 
Fifteen  churches  and  eight  fecular 
buildings  conftitute  my  entire  lifl 
for  New  England.  It  is  poffible 
that  there  was  but  little  ufe  for 
Fig.  33.    Friends' Meeting-iiouse,  town  houfcs    and     cit)'-halls  :     the 

Hurli'iglon,  N.  J.  ,  t-         1  /-       n      r  ■  ir 

meeting-houies,  lerving  alio 
other  than  devotional  purpofes,  helped  to  fupply  their  places. 

The  earlieft  of  thefe  "  meeting-houfes "  were  plain  and 
bare  to  the  point  of  rudeiicfs.  Puritan  fentiment  did  not 
countenance  difplay  or  even  limited  decoration,  and  dif- 
carded  the  very  word  '-church,"  becaufe  alTociated  with  fo 
much  outwarcl  fltow. 

The  ufual  type,  according  to  Dr.  E;ggleflon,  w-as  fquare  in 
plan.  On  the  exterior  were  two  flories  of  windows.  The 
fteep  roof,  floping  from  the  four  fides,  was  furmounted  by  a 
belfry  with  a  flender  fpire,  the  bell-rope  dangling  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  affembly-room.  Such  was  the  famous  "Old  Ship" 
at  Hiiigham,  Mafs.^  This  type  was  much  more  fuited  for  a 
fchool-houfe  than  for  a  place  of  worfliip,  though  not  per  se 
devoid  of  anirtic  poffibilities. 

Some  were  of  ft  11  ruder  forms,  often  mere  barns.  Occa- 
fionally  a  fmall  hexagonal  plan  was  adopted  (Fig.  33).  One 
would  be  glad  to  find  in  poverty  and  in  the  date  of  their 
erection  an  excufe  for  fuch  inappropriate  forms  and  crude 
ideas  —  but  many  contemporary  refidences  ftill  exifl  to  teftify 
to  much  tafte  combined  with  great  fimplicity.  Moreover, 
fmall  and  artiftic  churches  aie  found  farther  fouth.  Poverty 
is  no  excufe  for  poor  defign. 

An  old  church  at  Narraganfet,  R.  I.,  is  ilightly  better.  In 
it  the  lower,  and  taller,  flory  of  windows  has  round  heads, 
and  the  doorway,  too,  is  fomething  more  tlian  a  mere  open- 
ing with  a  hinged  (lap. 

It  was  impoffible  for  the  ultra  Puritan   alceticifm  to  con- 


Fig.  34.    Park  St.  Steeple.  P.oston, 
.M.1SS. 


Fig.  35.     Pulpit  of  King's  Chaijel, 
Ijoston,  Mass. 


tinue  indefinilel}'.  .\  reaction  muft  let  in,  and  man's  inborn 
love  for  beauty  mufl  find  fome  expreffion.  The  evil  feed, 
however,  had  been  fown,  and  there  are  thofe  who  attribute 


1  1  ait  IV.  Plate  17. 


lO 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


the  decadence  of  the  church  in  New  England,  partially  at 
leafl,  to  this  long  refiifal  to  fatisfy  ajflhetic  requirements. 

Chrift  Church  at  Shrewsbury,  N.  J-,  an  improvement  upon 
the  Narraganfet  church,  is  doubly  interelling.     It  is  a  church 

unmiflakably,  and  of  a  type 
which  has  later  been  copied 
in  hundreds  of  our  Weftern 
towns  —  an  oblong  plan 
with  four  to  fix  round-headed 
windows  on  each  fide,  a 
pediment  with  a  bull'f-eye 
window  at  each  end.  and  a 
belfry  burfling  through  the 
roof  in  front.  The  two 
front  doorways,  where  one 
would  be  fufficient,  have  an 
intereft,  recalling,  as  they 
do,  the  focial  cuftom  of  feat- 
i'ng  the  men  and  women  on 
different  fides  of  the  church, 
with  a  barrier  throughout 
the  length  to  feparate  the 
young  folks.  This  church 
is  frame  and  fliingled  ;  many 
like  it  are  clapboarded. 
The  details  are  ClafTic, 
rather  freely  treated.  This 
kind  of  a  church  is  at  moft 
fuited  for  the  country  or 
for  a  village.  In  a  growing 
town  it  is  foon  brufhed  afide 
and  replaced  by  another. 

Thefe  fviperfeding 
churches  form  a  clafs  by 
themfelves.  More  citified 
and  fubftantial,  they  are 
ufirally  of  brick  or  of  flone. 
Their  defign   is  fo  directly 


Fig.  36.     First  Unitarian  Church,  Eliot  Sq.; 
Roxbury,  Boston,  Mass.     Built  in  1784. 


bafed  upon  the  Wren  churches  of  London  as  to  deceive  any 
except  clofe  fcrutiny.  The  towers  are,  perhaps,  more  tapering 
and  graceful,  and  the  churches  throughout  feem  to  be  better 
built.  Thefe  towers  —  in  compofition  Gothic,  in  details  Re- 
naiflance  —  are  the  prominent  features.  The  fcheme  is  fimple : 
a  fquare  bafe, feveral  contradling,  ufually  oftagonal,  ftories,  and 
a  fteep  crowning  fpire.  Thefe  tower  ftories  are  treated  with 
the  orders,  cornices,  pediments,  baluftrades  and  large  fcrolls, 
ufed  with  much  variety,  though  often  rather  awkwardly,  for 
few  elements  could  be  lefs  tradable  in  fpire  compofition. 
Such  towers  are  found  all  the  way  from  New  England  to  the 
Carolinas.  The  Park  Street  Church,  Bofton,  fteeple,  Peter 
Banner,  architect,  is  one  of  the  fineft  of  this  clafs  (Fig.  34). 

The  Old  South  Church,^  too,  at  Bofton,  is  a  well-known 
ftru6ture.  In  this  the  fquare  part  of  the  tower  rifes  high 
above  the  main  roof-ridge.  The  tranfition  to  the  one-ftory 
oftagon  is  concealed  by  a  baluftrade.  The  flender,  foaring 
fpire  is  fine  indeed,  with  its  four  lofty  dormers  at  the  bafe. 

The  interiors,  too,  follow  Englifli  models.  Thus  St.  James's 
Church,  Piccadilly,  has  in  Chrift  Church,  Bofton,  an  echo  of 
that  peculiar  ceiling  treatment  in  which  the  barrel-vault  of 
the  main  aifle  is  interfedted  by  fmall  tranfverfe  vaults  over  the 
bays  of  the  fide  aifles.  The  heavinefs  of  this  arrangement  is 
fkilfully  avoided  in  St.  Martin'f-in-the-Fields,  by  making  the 
croff-vaults  interfeCt  longitudinal  vaults  over  all  three  aifles. 
This  is  echoed  in  King's  Chapel,^  Bofton,  the  cradle  of  Uni- 
tarianifm  in  the  United  States.     Tiie  Chapel  is  even  an  im- 

'Kee  illustratioTis  in  ;i  later  article  on  the  roof  of  the  building. 
^Plates  15  to  19,  Part  I. 


provement,  for  here  the  coupled  columns  juftify  the  block  of 
entablature  over  them  in  a  manner  fingle  columns  cannot  do. 
This  interior,  in  almoft  pure  white,  is  faid  to  be  one  of  the 
fineft  remaining  from  thofe  days. 

Church  furniture,  efpecially  the  pulpits  and  founding- 
boards,  fhow  much  thought  and  care.  The  fine  pulpit  of 
King's  Chapel  (Fig.  35  and  PI.  18,  Part  I),  in  ufe  fince  1686, 
is  afcended  over  narrow  fteps  inclofed  by  a  baluftrade  of 
hand-carved,  fpiral  fpindles.  The  delicate  mouldings  of  the 
pulpit  and  of  the  founding-board  are  broken  above  and  be- 
low the  pilafters,  which  are  fet  back  a  little  from  the  corner, 
thus  giving  much  light  and  fliade.  Trinity  Church  of  New- 
port, R.  I.,  can  alfo  boaft  of  a  welldefigned  and  fimilar  pulpit. 
A  crown,  the  laft  of  royal  infignia  in  the  States,  is  ftill  poifed 
on  Trinity's  lofty  fpire. 

SECULAR    BUILDINGS. 

The  few  remaining  fecular  buildings  fhow  fimplicity  of  tafte 
and  propriety  in  defign.  Three  out  of  the  eight  buildings 
above  referred  to  belong  to  Newport,  and  their  recording  is  due 
to  the  patriotifm  of  George  C.  Mafon,  an  archite6t  of  that  city.' 
These  buildings  illustrate  twoState-houfes  and  a  library^  at 
Bofton,  a  library  and  a  town-houfe  at  Newport,  a  town-houfe 
at  Weatherffield,  Conn.,  a  market  at  Newport,  and  a  cuftom- 
houfe  at  Salem.  If  to  thefe  we  add  a  fynagogue  at  Newport, 
my  entire  lift  is  exhaufted.  All  of  thefe  buildings  date  from 
1740  to  1800. 

It  is  difficult  to  clafTify  fo  few  buildings,  and  it  would  be 
hazardous  to  generalize,  for  to  do  that  would  be  to  affume 

that  thefe  examples  are 
typical,  whereas  they  may 
be,  as  is  the  Old  State- 
houfe  (Fig.  39),'^  at  Bof- 
ton, quite  unique. 

We  have  already  feen 
that  the  beft  churches 
were  bafed  upon  Englifh 
models.  That  many  of 
the  civic  buildings,  alfo, 
had  Englifh  elements 
maybe  inferred  from  the 
fadt  that  Peter  Harrison, 
the  architeft  of  the 
market  at  Newport  (Fig. 
38),  and  of  other  build- 
ings there  and  elfewhere, 
had  been  an  afliftant  to 
the  famous  Sir  John  Van- 
brugh. 

The  name  of  another 
early  Newport  archite<5t 
is  alfo  recorded  :  Richard 
Munday  ftarted  in  a6tive 
life  as  a  partner  in  the 
building  bufinefs  with 
Benjamin  Wyatt.  But 
Munday  was  made  of  am- 
bitious ftuff  and  ere  long 
offered  his  fervices  as 
an  independent  defigner. 
He  muft  have  been  fucceffful,  for  in  1738  the  Town  of  New- 
port faw  fit  to  entruft  him  with  the  defign  and  eredtion  of  its 
new   town-houfe   (Fig.   40).     This   building   is  fymmetrical, 

3 The  omission  front  this  shoit  list  of  Fanueil  Plall  [Plates  31-33,  Part 
TI]  by  Peter  Smibert  anti,  later,  Charles  Bulfinch  must  be  quite  acci- 
dental.—  Kd. 

*  The  building  here  mentioned  was  destroyed  many  years  before  this 
paper  was  written.  —  Kd. 

s  Plate  46,  Part  II. 


Fig.  37.     Spire   of    Congregational    Church, 
Manchester-by-the-Sea,  Mass. 


NEW  ENGLAND   PUBLIC   BUILDLXGS. 


11 


Fig.  38.    Market  or  City-Hall,  Newport,  R.  I., 
1760.     Peter  Harrison,  Architect. 


well-proportioned  and  quiet,  but  it  lacks  the  architedural 
character  of  Harrifon's  fomewhat  later  works.  For  fuggef- 
tion,  Munday  depended   upon   the   type  then   in  vogue  for 

larger  refidences,  previ- 
oufly  defcribed.  He  in- 
creafed  the  dimenfions, 
added  another  window  on 
each  fide  of  the  door, 
placed  an  odtagonal  cu- 
pola on  the  roof,  and  gave 
dignity  to  the  whole  by 
raifing  it  upon  a  ruftic 
bafement  five  feet  high. 
The  dimenfions  are  forty 
feet  by  eighty.  Honeftly 
conflru(5ted  of  brick  and  ftone,  it  bravely  promifes  to  weather 
the  feaf  ins  for  many  generations  yet  to  come. 

The  old  Library  at  Bofton  (Fig.  22)  and  the  Market  at 
Newport  (Fig.  38)  are  both  in  the  Palladian  ftyle,  fomewhat 
after  the  manner  of  the  brothers  Adam,  England. 

Bofton  is  fortunate  in  flill  retaining  two  fine  State-houfes. 
The  older,  more  pi<5lurefque  and  interefting  (Fig.  39),  cover- 
ing a  fmall  plot  of  ground  with  ftreets  clofe  upon  all  fides, 
fhows,  ftrangely  enough,  decided  Dutch  influences  in  its 
fingly-ftepped  end-gables  with  affroiite  Hon  and  unicorn, 
and  in  its  S-fhaped  exterior  wall-anchors.  The  new  State- 
houfe,  on  tlie  other  hand,  is  a  model  of  Clafficality.  Its 
prominent  features  are  feveral  flights  of  broad  fteps  up  the 
hill,  a  proje(5lipg  arcade  of  the  firfl  flory,  with  an  open  colon- 
nade of  fingle  and  coupled  columns  above,  and  a  high,  domi- 
neering gilded  dome.  The  building  is  only  two  flories  high, 
on  a  low  bafement.  It  was  built  in  1795  and  was  one  of  the 
moft  important  undertakings  of  its  time.  Charles  Bulfinch, 
its  architedt,  was  born  in  Bofton.  1763.  He  fpent  fome  time 
in  Europe  after  graduating.  The  fucceffful  feature  of  this 
1 


not  to  believe  it  to  be  elaftic  or  fpringy,  partaking  fomething 
of  the  nature  of  a  balloon. 

The  Cuftom-houfe  at  Salem  (Fig.  41)  is  very  pleafing  and 
appropriate.  This  buila- 
ing  gains  additional  in- 
tereft  from  affociation 
with  Hawthorne.  Here 
it  was  that  he  firft  con- 
ceived the  romance  of 
the  "  Scarlet  Letter." 

The  meagrenefs  of 
this  part  of  the  review  is 
all  the  more  deplorable, 

for  public  buildings  Pig.  40.  Town-House,  latelv  State-House.  New- 
fllOuld    be,    and     in     moft       P°".  »■  I-  '^tS-     Richard  Mu„day,  Architect. 

countries  are,  the  outcome  of  a  community's  beft  efforts. 
But  this  very  poverty  of  ftrudlure  illuftrates  better  than  any- 
thing elfe  could  that  our  Colonial  architefture  was  mainly  a 
domeftic  architecture. 

THE    MIDDLE    PROVINCES  :     DOMESTIC    ARCHITECTURE. 

When  Nieuw  Amfterdam  became  New  York,  only  about 
fixty  years  after  its  founding,  the  Dutch  had  already  impreffed 
many  of  their  charadleriftics  upon  its  architecture.  Of  thefe, 
fome  were  foon  outgrown,  others  perfifted  for  a  long  time. 
It  is  quite  natural  that  Englifli  elements  at  laft  prevailed. 
But  there  is,  after  all,  only  a  flight  refemblance  between  the 
architecture  of  New  England  and  that  of  the  Middle  States. 
In  fome  localities  Englifli  influence  hardly  has  been  felt  at  all. 

In  New  York  City  but  little  of  the  old  work  remains. 
One  might  expedt  that  this  city,  with  its  24,000  inhabitants 
in  1776,  would  have  left  us  important  ftruttures.  But  fires 
and  progrefs  have  made  great  havoc,  or,  as  Richard  Grant 
White  cleverly  phrafes  it:  "Old  New  York  has  been  fwept 
out  of  exiftence  by  the  great  tidal  wave  of  its  own  material 
profperity "  But  what  remains  is  always  interefting  and 
valuable,  often  pricelefs. 

The  entire  field  is  the  one  leaft  inveftigated  by  writers 
upon  architecture.  An  attempt  to  claflify  the  few  examples 
of  which  data  are  obtainable  might  prove  futile.  It  is,  how- 
ever, certainly  interefting  to  note  peculiarities  and  points  of 
fimilarity  or  diffimilarity  between  the  Colonial  work  of  this 
and  of  other  fections. 

New  York  was  not  only  the  moft  tolerant  of  all  the  colonies 


Fig.  39.     The  Old  State-House,  Boston,  Mass. 


defign  is  the  colonnade  furmounting  the  arcade,  with  the  un- 
ufual  difpofition  of  two  pairs  of  columns  at  each  end  and  four 
fingle  in  between.     The  dome,  too,  is  fine.     But  it  is  hard 


Fig.  41.    The  Custom-House,  Salem,  Mass. 

towards  religious  beliefs,  but  it  was  alfo  the  moft  eclettic  and 
cofmopolitan  in  all  matters,  including  buikling.  Even  before 
the   peaceful    Englifli   occupation    eighteen    languages  were 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Fist.  42.     Dmch  Manor,  Long  Island,  N.  V. 


fpoken  in  the  city  of  New  York,  then  having  only  1.500  in- 
habitants. This  little  Babel  welcomed  every  (lyle  of  archi- 
teCJure  and  every  kind  of  building-material.     In  New  Eng. 

land  we  found 
wood  to  be  a  char- 
deriflic.  In  the 
Southern  Colonies 
frame  ftructures 
were,  as  we  fliall 
fee,  e.xlremely  rare. 
But  in  the  Middle 
Colonies,  as  was 
eminently  proper, 
wood  and  flone, 
brick  and  llucco  were  employed.  The  roofs  were  covered 
with  every  available  material  —  Hate,  lliingles  or  tile,  tin,  lead 
or  copper. 

It  has  been  pointed  out  how  defpiled  the  log-cabin  was  in 
New  England.  It  was,  if  poflible,  Hill  lefs  thought  of  in  this 
fetlion.  No  Dutchman  is  known 
ever  to  have  erected  one  for  his 
dwelling.  If  he  ever  was  forced 
to  fuch  a  dire  neceflity,  he  muft 
have  fucceeded,  fooner  than  did 
his  northern  fellow  coloniil,  in 
replacing  it  with  fomething  more 
acceptable. 


Much,  too,  is  loft  by  the  abfence  of  roof-baluftrades.     For, 
though  thefe  are  certainly  without  any  practical  value  on  a 


Fig.  46.     Typical  New  York  Dormer.  Fig.  47.  Dormers  at  Newcastle,  Eng. 

pitched  roof,  they  feem  almoft  indifpenfable  for  a  good  finifh, 
at  le;ift  for  large  houfes.  Kut  ihere  were  few  lofty  houfes. 
The  phlegmatic  Hollander  looked  upon  long  flights  of  ftairs 

as  a  nuifance.  His  ceiling  was 
high  enough  if  it  was  eight 
or  nine  feet  above  the  floor. 
There  feemed  to  him  to  be  no 
ufe  for  a  fecond  ftory,  when 
an  attic  might  do.  His  houfe 
tended  rather  to  horizontal 
dimenfions. 


Fig.  43.     Door-hood  of  the  Van  Ren 

selaer  House,  Greenbush,  N.  Y. 


Fig.  44. 


The  ElsieGerret*enFioiise, 
Brooklyn,  N. 


Flatbiish  .Avenue,  near  Fenimore  Street, 
Y.     Built  about  1781. 


Fig,  48.     From  the  House  of  New 
York's  Third  Mayor. 


Nor  did  the  typical  New  England  cottage,  with  its  long 
fweep  of  roof,  find  much  favor.  Some  do  occur  but  the 
Dutchman  preferred  to  have  a  long  flope  to  the  front  as  well 
as  to  the  rear  (Figs.  42,  45  and  the  Verplanck  lioufe  on  p.  25). 

Splendid  ClalTical  fronts,  fuch  as  that  of  Longfellow's  home. 


Fig.  45.     (")ld  Homestead  of  the  Lefferts  Family,  563  Flalbusli  Ave.,  Brooklyn,  N.  ^  ' 

are  rare  indeed.  The  few  that  belong  to  this  type  generally 
lack  any  attempt  at  Ittitit  corre6tnefs  in  detail  and  monu- 
mentality  in  treatment. 


Very  few  abfolutely  new  features  are  encountered.  The 
ftepped  gable,  which  occurred  only  fporadically  in  New  Eng- 
land, was  here  found  at  every  turn,  from  the  Hudson  to  the 
Sufquehanna.  Very  old  prints  ftiow  rows  of  thefe  gabled 
facing  the  flreeis.    By 

degrees     they    difap-  .    ~  1 

pear,  and  even  as 
early  as  the  Revolu- 
tion they  were  not 
very  common. 

The  gambrel  roof, 
which  was  not  ufed 
very  often,  was  much 
m  o  d  i  fi  e  d  .  Some- 
liines  it  included  two 
ftories  of  windows,  as 
in    Figure    42.      The 

,,  Fig.  49.    Old  Doorway,  ii5th  Street,  New  York  City. 

upper   Hope   was    re- 
duced in  fize,  so  as  to  become,  in  many  cafes,  quite  infignifi- 
cant.     The  long,  lower  flope  was,  as  in  very  early  New  Eng- 
land examples,  gracefully  curved,  fo  as  to  foften  its  angularity 


1  The  Lki-1  kkts  IIomf.steaI),  Fi.ati!U.sii  Avenue,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 
—  The  present  owner  of  this  house,  Mr.  John  Lefferts,  |r  ,  writes:  "The 
old  hou>e  on  Flatbush  Avenue  in  this  city  has  been  in  the  occu])ancy  of 
the  Lefferts  family  for  many  years.  We  have  no  dcfinile  data  of  tiie  age 
of  this  house.  It  )ias  always  been  owned  and  occiij)ied  by  a  iiieniber  of 
the  Lefferts  family,  and  handed  down  from  one  generation  to  another. 
My  father,  the  late  Mr  Jolm  Lefferts  of  Flatbush.  always  siijiposed  lliat 
tile  house  was  built  alxjut  1750;  at  any  rate,  it  stood  there  for  several 
years  previous  to  the  Revolutionary  War,  for  during  and  before  ll.e 
Kattle  of  f.ong  Island  it  was  occupied  by  a  Lefferts.  About  forty  years 
ag<j.  my  fatlier  built  an  addition  in  the  lear  of  this  house,  of  a  type  of 
architecture  entirely  foreign  to  tlie  old  structure.     He  has  often  told  me 


he  regretted  this,  for  it  spoils,  to  some  extent,  the  beauty  of  the  old 
house  when  looking  at  it  from  its  side.  It  was  dc>ne,  however,  when 
there  was  not  much  attention  paid  to  architectural  effect  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  I  am  not  an  architect  and  cannot  describe  in  detail  some 
of  the  beautiful  things  about  the  old  house,  but  would  call  special  atten- 
tion to  the  front  doorway,*  which  is  unique  as  a  Colonial  type  and  es- 
peci.iUy  attractive  in  its  moulding  and  carving.  The  house  originally 
had  a  Dutch  divided  door,  with  the  customary  brass  knocker,  but  that 
was  unfortunately  removed  for  the  ]iresent  one.  This  is  the  only  devi- 
ation in  the  house  proper  from  its  truly  Dutch  tyiie." 

•See  Plate  4,  Part  IV. 


DOMESTIC  ARCHITECTURE:    THE   MIDDLE   PROVINCES. 


13 


and  >.ardncfs(Figs.  42  and  45).     Many  of  the  ordinary  gabled  Still  another  peculiarity  was  what  might  be  termed  "  wLi- 

roofs,  alfojhad  a  neat  curve  at  the  bottom  of  the  Hope,  juft  at      dow  tracery."     In  the  large  cities  of  Hofton,  New  York  dnd 

Philadelphia  there  was  evolved  a  flyle  of  light  cafl-iroii  bar- 
tracerv,"  of    various    combinations  of    circles,   ferments  and 


Fig.  SO.     The  Van  Rensselaer  Manor  House,  Greenbusll,  N.  V.  Fig.  5^,     Van  Rensselaer  Mansion,  Albany,  N.  Y.     Wings  by  R.  Upjohn,  1S40. 

the  overhang  of  the  eaves.     This  overhang,  too,  is  worthy  of  ftraight  lines,  with  a  bit  of  foliage  at  fome  of  the  interfecfions 

fpecial  notice.     Farther  north  it  occurred  at  eveiy  ftory-level,  (Fig.  49)-     This  was  much  ufed  for  the  fide  lights  and  for  the 

and  gradually  difappeared  in  later  houfes.     But  the  Dutch  re-  tranfoms  of  doorways,  and  is  ffill  the  moft  flriking  feature  of 
tained  it,  though  uling; 


it  only  at  the  eaves. 
Sometimes  it  was 
made  fo  great  as  to 
become  a  ffoop  or 
porch,  requiring  fup- 
porting  columns.* 
Hackenfack,  efpe- 
cially,  has  many  fuch 
overhanging  eaves. 

The  details,  as  be- 
fore dated,  are  not 
very  Claflic.  although 
generally  derived 
from  fome  C  1  a  ffi  c 
fource.  Many  vaga- 
ries and  oddities 
occur.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  find  a  pre- 
cedent for  the  hood 
over  the  rear  door  of 


old  city  houfes.  It  is 
often  very  delicate, 
pleafuig,  and  richly 
varied  in  defign. 
Sometimes  this 
tracery  ferved  to  hold 
the  glafs,  but  quite 
often  it  was  independ- 
ent of  it.  Its  use 
continued  far  down 
into  the  Greek  re- 
vival. 

That,  in  fpite  of 
all  Dutch  iiiHuence, 
Englilh,  or  rather 
New  England,  influ- 
ences are  quite  ob- 
fervable,  could  not  be 
better  illuftrated  than 
by  three  Van  Renf- 
felaer     manor-houfes. 


Fig.  SI.     The  Morris  House,  i6ist  Street  and  lolh  Avenue,  New  York  City,     Built  in  1762 

the  "ancient"-  Van  RenlTelaer  manor,  at  Greenbulh,  X.  Y.  Kfpecially  noticeable  is  the  tendency  to  roof  elimination. 
(Fig.  43),  or  for  tlie  interior  door-trim  of  a  New  York  houfe  The  oldelt  of  thefe,  the  one  called  the  'ancient,"  at  Green- 
(Fig.  48).  Both  are  charming  in  their  originality  and  inde- 
pendence. 

Typical  New  York  dormers  (Fig.  46)  are  baled,  as  the 
Connedficut  porches  previoudy  defcribed,  upon  Michael 
Angelo's  window  treatment.  Tiiey  continued  to  be  built  for 
a  long  time,  and  may  ftill  be  found  on  many  old  houfes  of  that 
city  and  its  neighborhood.     Another  diflinct  tvpe  of  dormer 


Fig.  S2.     \'an  Rensaelaer  Manor,  17^.10,  Albany,  X.  V. 

is  given   in  Figure  68.     Tlie  accompanying  Iketch  (I'ig.   47) 
fhows  an  Englilh  precedent  from  Newcallle. 


'See  also  the  account  of  the  Verplanck  House  at  Fishkill  on  Hudson, 
later  on. 


Fig,  .S4.     Marble  Mantel:  Van  Rensselaer  Mansion,  Atl)any,  X.  V.,  dale  1765. 

bulh,  N.  Y,  (Fig.  50),  is  very  quaint  and  piclurefque —  Dutch 
throughout.  The  hood  in  Figure  43  belongs  to  this  houfe 
Claffic  influence  is  very  flight. 

■^  Plates  39-4r,  Part  II  and  Plate  7,  I'ait  III. 


u 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


But  the  fine  old  manor  at  Albany  (Fig.  50),  built  in  1765, 
fliows  Claflicifm  in  the  afcendency.  The  roof  is  a  peculiar 
compromife  between  the  gambrel  and  the  manfard,  for  what 


under  the  porch,  is  carried  on  cantilevers  and  extends  only 
half  as  far  as  does  the  main  porch. 

The    home    of   Alexander    Hamilton,    on    the    Hamilton 
Grange,  with  the  thirteen  hiftoric  elms  near  by,  is  alfo  inter- 


Fig.  5S.     Old  Dutch  Cottage,  ii6th  Street,  New  York  City. 

fhould  be  the  upper  flope  of  the  gambrel  has  become  a  flat 
deck,  but  without  producing  a  manfard,  for  the  end-walls 
are  carried  up  to  the  full  height  of  the  roof.  The  strufture 
is  now  being  torn  down  and  rebuilt  for  a  college  fraternity 
at  Williamftown,  Mafs.  The  old  Dutch  fcenic  wall-paper, 
which  ornamented  the  hall,  has  been  carefully  removed  for 
future  ufe. 

In  the  third  manor  (Fig.  52),  alfo  at  Albany,  Claffic  con- 
quefl  is  complete,  with  ftrongly  marked  horizontal  lines,  a 
flat  roof  with  a  baluilrade,  an  engaged  Doric  portico,  and 
a  Palladian  window.  This  building  and  the  preceding  are 
placed  up  on  high  bafements,  a  thing  which  was  rarely  done 
in  New  England. 

Several  old  manfions  are  (till  ftanding  in  New  York  and 
in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Many  of  thefe  depend  for  hiftoric 
interefl  upon  affociation  with  Wafhington.     Among  them  is 


Fig.  57.     Colonial  House,  Germantown,  Pa. 

efting.  Its  Doric  cornice  has  fmall  inoflenfive  triglyphs.  A 
baluftrade  furrounds  the  flat  roof.  Two  porches  only  remain 
of  the  three  which  once  almoft  enclofed  it  upon  three  fides. 
No  engaged  two-ftory  columns  or  pilafters  occur,  in  fact  fijch 
features  are  rare  throughout  the  Middle  States,  and  entirely 
lacking  in  the  Southern. 

Figure  55  reprefents  a  little  Dutch  cottage  on  ii6th  Street 
near  7th  Avenue,  New  York.  It  is  now  almoft  overgrown 
with  additions  and  out-buildings  —  the  refult  of  making  a 
"road-houfe"  of  it.  At  prefent  it  is  ufed  once  more  as 
a  dwelling.  Another  and  quite  fimilar  cottage  is  illuftrated 
in  Figure  42. 

Yonkers's  City-hall  ^  might  well  be  called  "ancient,"  as 
antiquity  goes  in  America.  It  was  built  in  1682  by  Fred- 
erick Philipfe  for  his  manor.  In  1745  it  was  confiderably 
enlarged.     In  1779,  its  Tory  owner  having  fled,  it  was  confif- 


^7y. 


Fig.  56.     The  Apthorpe  House,  90th  Street  and  loth  Avenue,  New  York,  N.  Y. 


the  fine  old  Jumel  manfion^  at  165th  Street  and  9th  Avenue, 
built  about  1760  (Fig.  55).  It  has  a  front  porch  with 
very  flender  two-ftoried  columns.     The  fecond-ftory  balcony, 

'The  Morris  Mansion,  or  Jumel  House.  —  "This  building  is  all 
the  more  interesting  because  it  is  itself  an  historical  building  in  the 
sense  that  Mount  Vernon  is  historical.  It  was  built  about  175S  by  Roger 
Morris,  who,  formerly  a  liritish  officer,  naturally  was  a  Tory  during  the 
Revolution,  and  because  of  this,  as  naturally,  had  his  property,  this  house 
amongst  it,  confiscated.  Washington  quartered  here  during  the  opera- 
tions about  New  York.  Later  tlie  house  became  the  property  of  the 
Mme.  Jumel  who  married  for  her  third  husb.ind  Aaron  liurr  when  in  his 
seventy  eighth  year,  and  from  whom  she  later  attempted  to  get  a  divorce. 


cated  and  fold,  only  to  be  rebought  in  1868,  fince  which 
time  it  has  been  in  ufe  for  civic  purpofes.  The  ftructure  is 
rather  peculiar,  and  not  very  remarkable  for  beauty.  It  is 
long  and  narrow,  two  ftories  high,  with  a  hipped  roof  relieved 
by  dormers,  and  crowned  by  a  baluftrade  running  all  around 
the  flat  deck  on  top.  Upon  the  long  front  are  two  entrances, 
making  it  look  much  as  though  two  houfes  had  grown  together. 
The  Apthorpe  Houfe  (Fig.  56),  which  until  quite  recently 

2  Plates  24-29,  Part  II. 


DOMESTIC  ARCHITECTURE:    THE  MIDDLE  PROVINCES. 


'5 


exifted  on  the  corner  of  gth  Avenue  and  90th  Street,  was 
fomewhat  peculiar  in  plan.  The  plan  and  elevation  were 
quite  finiilar  to  that  of  the  home  of  Waihington's  mother. 
Each  had  a  deep  two- 
flory  recefs  in  the 
middle.  On  the 
front  were  four  two- 
ftory  pilafters. 

The  early  feitlers 
of  Pennfylvania  were 
remarkable  in  many 
ways.  William  Penn 
prepared  upon  his 
immenfe  land-grant 
a  refuge  for  all 
r  e  1  i  g  i  o  VI  s  fedts. 
Among  thefe  were 
Quakers,  Moravians, 
Mennonites,  Dunk- 
ards  and  Solitary 
Brethren.  In  view 
of  fuch  an  affem- 
blage  of  world- 
efchewing  zealots,  it 
is   not  f  u  r  p  r  i  fi  n  g 


■=^1 


Fig.  SS.     Livezey's  House,  Allen's  Lane  and  Wissahickon  Creek,  Phila.     Built  1652  and  supposed  to  be  the 

oldest  house  in  State. 


palifades,  a  common  mode  of  building  in  their  native  country. 
Exceptions  are  often  as  interefling  as  charadJteriftics.     If 

anything  can  be  faid  to  be  unique,  it  furely  muft  be  a  Proteft- 

ant  convent.  Such 
an  one  was  eftab- 
lifhed  by  the  fo-called 
Soli  tary  Brethren 
(and  Sifters),  in 
1725,  at  Ephrata, 
near  Lancafter,  Pa. 
This  eftablifhment  at 
firft  grew  rapidly  in 
numbers  and  eredted 
fever al  fubftantial 
buildings,  fome  of 
which  are  ftill  ftand- 
ing  (Fig.  60).  Thefe 
are  huge,  fi  m  p  1  e 
flru6tures,  two  ftories 
high,  with  the  ufual 
large,  fteep,  German 
gable.  The  very 
fmall  doors  and 
windows,  irregularly 
fpaced,    produce     a 


that  Philadelphia  is,  to-day,  the  embodiment  of  Philiftinifm. 

Many  large  and  often  impofing  buildings  remain,  efpecially 
in  Philadelphia  and  in  Germantown.  One  of  the  beft  of 
thefe,  a  flucco  brick  flrudture,  fomewhat  remodelled  in  later 
times,  is  given  in  Figure  57.  Stucco  feems  to  have  been 
largely  employed  —  perhaps  owing  to  German  influence  — 
often  with  brick  quoins  and  other  brick  trimmings.  Stone 
was,  however,  the  chief  building-material. 

The  details  generally  are  hard  and  crude,  and  often  inap- 
propriate. The  home  of  the  Colonial  botanift,  John  Bar- 
tram,  at  Philadelphia,  built  in  1731,  has  two-ftory  femi-de- 
tached  columns 
with  huge  Ionic 
fcrolls.'  The 
German  rococo 
mouldings  of  the 
w  indow-frames, 
too,  are  out  of 
all  fcale  with  the 
humble  dwelling. 

In  Pennfyl- 
vania there  were 
rarely  any  ve- 
randas, porches, 
or  gardens  (Fig. 
58).  The  fierce 
fight  with  the 
primeval  forefts 
had  engendered 
ahatredof  fliade- 
trees :  the  fettlers 
preferred  to  let 
the  fun  bake 
their  unprotected 
walls. 

The  founders 
of  New  Sweden 
in  Delaware  were 


gloomy  look.     The  feci:,  which  long  ago  died  out,  has  been 
fuperfeded  by  Seventh-Day  Baptifts. 

INTERIORS. 

Hardly  anything  can  be  faid  of  the  interiors,  fo  few  are 
illuftrated.  Scenic  wall-paper  was  ufed  fomewhat,  though 
only  in  the  beft  houfes.  Large  wall-panelling  of  wood  was 
much  employed  even  in  ordinary  houfes.  The  ftaircafe  halls 
were  moftly  fimple  affairs,  as  in  the  plan  in  Figure  55.  The 
hall  of  the  fecond  Van  Renffelaer  manor  was  exceptionally 
large,  23'  x  46',  and  the  flairs  were  in  a  feparate  enclofure  off 

this  hall.  Some 
few  flaircafe  halls 
were  very  elabo- 
rate, as  in  the 
Wadfworth 
Houfe  at  Gene- 
fee,  N.  Y.,  which 
very  much  re- 
fembled  the  befl 
work  of  New 
England. 

In  few  features 
was  there  more 
uniformity  than 
in  the  mantels. 
Many  of  thefe 
from  far  diftant 
colonies  are  ftrik- 
ingly  fimilar.  It 
can  be  faid  of  the 
greater  number 
of  Colonial  man- 
tels that  they  are 
very  p  1  e  a  ft  n  g 
and  appropriate 
in  deiign,  and 
nioft   care  fully 


Fi(C.  59.     "  Tlie  Monastery, "  C"arpenter's  I.ane  and  WisRahickon  Creek,  Phila. 

too  few  in  numbers  to  exert  any  great  influence.     They,  how-      wrought  out  in   detail.     Perhaps  they  departed   more  from 

ever,  introduced  an  entirely  new  feature  in  the  conftruclion      ClalTic  motives  and  were  lefs  delicate  in  the  Middle  Colonies 

of   frame-houfes.     Thefe    they    enrlofed    with    upright   fplit      than  in  tlie  other  fections.     It  was  quite  charaderiftic  of  all 

—•7- 7, — r,:, the  mantels  to  interrupt  the  frieze  below  the  flielf  with  an 

-  Plate  9,  I  art  IV.  '^ 


i6 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Tdw 


ornamental  panel.     A  limilar  device  was  fometimes  reforted 
to  in  the  entablature  over  the  door  (Fig.  6i).^ 

THE    MIDDLE    PROVINCES:     PURLIC    ARCHITECTURE. 

Several  notable  public  buildings,  both  ecclefiaftical  and 
fecular,  have  been  preferved.  In  nioft  of  thefe,  Englifli  in- 
fluence is  predominant.  Traces  of  Dutch  elements,  quite 
marked  in  the  donicflic  architechire,-''  are  here  almoft  entirely 

wanting.  The  firft  ftruft- 
ures  were  Dutch,  c.  g.  the 
old  Stadt  Huys,  or  firft 
City-hall,  of  New  York, 
on  the  river  front,  which 
had  ftepped  gables  and 
other  Low  Country  pe- 
culiarities. 

Firft  in  rank  among 
New  York  churches  is 
Old  Trinity.  The  pref- 
ent  building  replaced  one  which  was  built  in  1788  on  the 
fpot  where  its  predeceftbr,  a  iimilar  ftruiSure,  was  burned 
in  1776.  This  had  iifelf  replaced  one  ftill  older,  of  which 
no  illuftrations  have  been  preferved.  The  church  of  1788 
was,  as  might  be  expected,  fomewhat  ClalTical.  The  entrance 
porch,  femicircular  in  plan,  had  four  pairs  of  coupled,  Cor- 
inthian columns,  very  much  elongated.     The  fix  windows  on 

'Erasmus  Hall,  Flathush,  N.  Y. — This  building,  occupied  since 
Octolier,  1S96,  by  llie  Brooklyn  Higli  Scliool,  was  erected  in  1786  by  the 
leading  men  of  the  town,  in  the  main  descendants  of  the  early  Dutch 
settlers  —  tiiough  in  the  list  of  subscribers'  names  we  find  those  of  John 
fav,  llamilt(jn  and  Aaron  lUirr  —  who  realized  that  now  that  the  war 
was  over  the  all-important  thing  was  to  provide  lor  the  education  of  the 
rising  generation.  Although  the  interior  was  largely  remodelled  in 
i8g6  the  e.xterior  shows  the  main  building  as  it  was  originally  built,  ex- 
cept that  the  porch  was  added  in  1823,  while  the  wings  were  built  even 


Fig.  60.     Saal  and  Saroii,  Kphrata,  Pa. 


-^.  ■>. 


,/ 


mmmmSlmmmim, 


Erasmus  Hall,  I'lalbu 


Bruuklyn,  N  .  \  .      i;.S(.. 


later.  The  building  has  .always  been  used  for  educational  purposes,  and 
must  be,  to  escape  the  reversion  of  building  and  site  to  the  Reformed 
Dutch  Church  of  T'latbush,  which  made  the  original  grant  to  this  institu 
tion.  The  nianlel  [Plate  7  Part  IV. |  now  in  the  school  principal's  office 
is  a  good  ty])e  of  the  Colonial  mantel  found  in  houses  owned  by  descend- 
ants of  the  Dutch  colonists. 

^The  WvcKorr  Ilousr:,  Long  Island,  N.  V.  —  At  P'latlands  Neck, 
Long  Island,  stands  one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  the  .State  of  New  York. 
Erected  in  i6f4,  it  is  jnactically  the  same  now  as  when  built,  and  seeius 
good  for  another  century  of  comfortable  habitation.  The  bricks  for  the 
chimneys,  fireplaces,  and  side-lining,  and  the  shingles,  of  best  white 
cedar,  for  the  roofs  and  siding,  were  imported  from  Holland.  The 
shingle  siding  on  the  south  side  of  the  house  has  never  been  changed. 
As  to  the  roof,  the  family  say  it  was  never  touched  until  five  years  ago, 
when  a  tin  roof  was  put  on.  In  18 ly  some  repairs  were  made  on  the  north 
side  in  shortening  the  overhang  of  the  roof,  which  extended  so  far  out 
and  so  l(jw  down  that  a  person  could  safely  jump  to  the  ground  from  it. 
The  north  and  east  sides  of  the  house  were  then  reshingled,  and  a  few 
rooms  were  lathed  and  plastered  for  the  first  time.  The  rooms  are  low- 
studded,  the  oak  beams  and  flo(jring  being  the  only  ceiling.  In  the 
dining-room  this  ceiling  was  never  painted,  and  from  long  wear  and 
smoke  from  log  fires  and  Dutch  pipes  it  long  since  assumed  the  color 
of  walnut. 

The  great  fire|)laces  .ire  suggestive  of  brass-handled  andirons  and 
fenders,  with  great  log  fires  fiaring  and  crackling,  and  the  familv  board 
groaning  with  a  weight  of  Dutch  comfort  and  hospitality  as  warm'  as  was 
ever  pictured  l)y  the  quaint  humor  of  Diedrich  Knickerbocker.  Many 
heirlooms  of  the  family  da.e  back  over  250  vears.     There  are  reminders 


each  fide  were  round-arched,  but  the  tower  windows,  curioufly 
enough,  were  pointed.  There  was  no  effort  to  make  a  grace- 
ful t  ran  fit  ion  to 
the  octagonal  fpire 
—  the  awkwardnefs 
of  which  was  fome- 
what concealed 
by  a  baluftrade, 
with  a  fquare  pin- 
nacle at  each  cor- 
ner. Four  fimilar 
pinnacles  jutted 
out  of  the  main 
roof,  one  at  each 
corner,  and  eight 
others  con  ti  nued 
the  Ines  of  the 
porch  columns 
above  the  porch 
cornice.  All  this 
gave  the  ciiurch  a 
fomewhat  Gothic 
1  o  p  k   a  t    a    hafty 

Fig.  61.     Doorway  at  Canandaigua,  N.  Y.  J?lance 

Two  of  Trinity's  older  chapels^  ftill  exift  —  both  of  the 
\Vren  type.      The  one  is  St.  Paul's  Chapel, °  built  in   1764- 

of  the  time  when  pewter  mugs  for  tea  drinking,  and  great  pewter  plates, 
measuring  eighteen  inches  across  and  weighing  several  pounds,  were 
among  the  few  table  dishes  in  common  use.  (jreat  numbers  of  them 
were  melted  up  and  cast  into  bullets  for  the  army  in  the  time  of  the 
Revolution.  There  are  also  relics,  ploughed  u|)  on  the  farm,  of  the  time 
when  the  redcoats  and  Hessians  of  George  III  overran  the  land.  Four 
rods  south  of  the  house  some  trees  indicate  the  spot  where  two  English 
spies  were  hanged  before  the  American  army  was  driven  off  Long 
Island. 

According  to  family  tradition  and  other  evidence,  Pieter  WyckofT,  a 
Holland  emigrant,  located  at  Flatlands  Neck  about  1630.  The  land  he 
purchased  of  the  Canarsie  Indians  has  been  handed  down  in  the  family 
from  generation  to  generation  for  over  260  years.  The  house,  over  230 
years  old,  was  built  the  year  Dutch  was  peaceably  superseded  by  English 
rule  in  exchange  for  Surinam.  The  property  of  fifty-six  acres  belongs  to 
the  estate  of  the  late  John  Wyckoff,  who  died  four  years  ago,  and  is  only 
a  |)art  of  that  owned  by  his  ancestors.  The  substantial  Dutch  barn  was 
built  in  1809  by  tiarret  P.  Wyckoff,  who  lived  to  be  ninety-five  years  old 
and  died  over  twenty-five  years  ago.  —  Xew  York  Times. 

•'Oldest  House  in  New  Yokk  City,  —  Some  one  recently  dis- 
covered that  the  oklei-t  house  in  New  York  is  to  let,  and  he  laments  the 
fact.  It  stands  at  122  William  St.,  between  John  and  Fulton,  and  it  is 
supposed  to  have  been  built  in  1692.  The  old-fashioned  Dutch  bricks 
that  were  ini])orted  from  Holland  especially  for  its  construction  are  still 
part  of  its  walls,  and  they  carry  their  age  well.  The  mortar  in  which 
they  stand  is  as  firm  as  the  bricks  themselves.  Vincent  .S.  Cook,  who 
has  interested  himself  in  this  old  house,  says  that  frequent  efforts  have 
been  made  to  purchase  it,  so  that  it  might  be  torn  down,  and  a  more 
profitable  building  erected  on  this  site,  but  they  have  been  unsuccessful. 

Abraham  de  Peyster  was  Mayor  of  New  York  when  this  house  was 
built,  and  it  is  recorded  that  he  took  a  personal  interest  in  it.  Its  com- 
pletion was  celebrated  with  a  big  jollification,  and  it  was  much  admired 
as  a  pretentious  example  of  Dutch  architecture.  This  house  was  occu- 
])ied  by  several  families  of  distinction  and  then  it  became  an  inn.  It  was 
later  a  rendezvous  for  the  Sons  of  Liberty,  an  organization  opposed  to' 
the  military  occupation  of  New  York  by  the  British,  and  for  several 
years  it  was  the  scene  of  fierce  strife.  Among  the  distinguished  men 
who  were  entertained  there  at  various  times  were  Washington,  La- 
fayette, Putnam,  Baron  .Steuben,  and  Nathan  Hale.  The  yard  of  this 
house,  although  hemmed  in  by  big  buildings,  looks  as  it  did  150  years 
ago.  It  is  now  like  the  ciunt-yard  of  a  country  tavern,  and  the  house 
itself  suggests  a  colonial  mansimi.  The  doors  are  low  and  broad,  and 
the  stairways  are  winding.  The  windows  are  almost  square.  In  re- 
cent years  this  house  has  been  used  as  a  restaurant.  —  Boston  Daily 
Advertiser. 

*  Plates  10  and  16,  Part  IV. 

''St,  Paul's  Chapel,  New  'S'ork,  N.  Y.  —  On  the  third  of  Novem- 
ber, 1763,  the  vestry  of  Trinity  Church  adopted  an  order  providing  for 
the  erection  of  a  second  chapel  for  the  i^arish,  having  alreadv  St.  George's, 
and  choosing  for  the  site  a  wheat  field  at  the  corner  of  Broadway  and 
Partition  Street,  now  known  as  FulKni  Street.  The  order  was  given'in 
November;  during  the  winter  materials  were  collected,  and  in  the  spring 
of  1764  work  was  begun,  the  cornerstone  being  laid  Monday,  May  14, 
1764.  In  the  autumn  of  1766  it  was  so  far  completed  as  to  be  ready  for 
|)ublic  use,  three  years,  less  four  days,  having  passed  since  the  giving  of 
the  order  to  Iniild.  On  October  30,  1766,  the  chapel  was  thrown  open 
for  public  service.  Dr  Barclay  and  his  successor.  Rev.  Dr.  .^uchmuty, 
were  the  promoters  of  the  building  of  the  chapel.  In  the  turbulent  years 
of  1775  and  1776  New  York  was  practically  in  the  hands  of  the  Revolu- 
tionists and  service  in  all  the  English  churches  was  discontinued      St. 


PUBLIC  ARCHITECTURE:     THE  MIDDLE   PROVINCES. 


17 


1766.  The  other  is  St.  John's,^  half  a  mile  to  the  northweft, 
built  in  1803-1807.  The  tower  of  this  latter  chapel,  once 
gracing  a  fafhionable  neighborhood,  now  frowns  down  upon 
Commodore  Vanderbilt's  freight  depot.  Perhaps  the  very 
fqualor  and  poverty  which  have  overtaken  it  have  been  the 
means  of  its  prefervation.  The  chancel  and  choir  are  very 
eflfedtive,  each  being  diftinctly  marked  by  the  architedure. 
Thefe  two  towers  are  quite  fimilar,  both  being  graceful  and 
(lender  compofitions.  St.  Paul's^  is,  perhaps,  the  more  pleaf- 
ing  of  the  two,  being  more  tapering.  The  churches  differ 
remarkably  in  their  entrance  porches :  the  little  two-col- 
umned entrance  to  St.  Paul's  is  jufl  as  infignificant  as  the 
huge  portico  of  St.  John's  is  coloffal  and  overpowering. 
John  McComb,  to  whom  is  afcribed  the  New  York  City-hall, 
is  alfo  given  as  the  architeft  of  St.  John's  Chapel. 

The  "Brick  Church"  on  5th  Avenue  and  37th  Street  (an 
enlarged  copy'  of  a  down-town  church,  erefted  in  1767  and 


amateur  architeft,  and,  indeed,  he  fucceeded  well.  The 
great  fault,  however,  of  this  defign,  as  of  all  Colonial  work,  is 
the  lack  of  depth  of  reveal.  No  amount  of  difpofition  or 
ornament  can  fatiffy  if  the  whole  has  an  appearance  of  being 


i^tfi  ^  ^ ^,' -z^ -j^  .  ^ ^^    —  "•_- ,  — 


Flj.  62.     Methodist  Epijcopal  Church,  Waterloo,  N.  V. 

long  fince  deftroyed),  belongs  alfo  to  the  Wren  type  of 
churches. 

In  Philadelphia  feveral  remark.ible  old  churches  are  Hill  to 
be  found.  The  oldeft  and  largefl  of  thefe  is  Chrifl  Cliurch,* 
begun  in  1727.  It  has  a  large,  not  ungraceful  tower,  fonie- 
what  of  the  Wren  type,  treated,  however,  without  orders. 
There  is  no  apfe  —  the  vifta  of  the  interior  is  clofed  with  a 
large  Palladian  window. 

This    church    was    defigned    by    Dr.    John    Kearfley,    an 


axnM; 

fffrf/l 

Flgf.  63.     Details  from  Hamilton  Mansion,  Woodlands,  near  Philadelphia. 

ftamped  out  of  Iheet  metal.  It  feems  ftrange  that  the  princi- 
ples of  chipboard  conftrucflion  (hould  fo  thoroughly  imprefs 
its  mark  on  mafonry  building.  The  interior  is  compofed  of 
Doric  columns  bearing  a  block  of  entablature,  from  which 
fpread  the  arches. 

St.  Peter's  Church,^  1738,  alfo  in  Philadelphia,  has  a  fimilar 
apfidal  treatment.  Its  tower  is  one  of  the  few  not  of  the 
Wren  type. 

Add  the  Zion  Church,  and  we  have  three  churches  of  this 
city  with  Palladian  windows  in  the  gable  end. 

Hackenfack,  N.  J.,  has  a  long,  low  and  pleafingly  quaint 
Dutch  church,  very  different  from  the  above.  It  is  a  Gothic 
llructure  of  brownflone,  with  brick  trimmings  around  the 
openings,  dating  from  1696.  The  pointed  windows  are 
probably  due  rather  to  a  lingering  reminifcence  of  Gothic 


Paul's  remained  closed  for  several  months  until  the  liiitish  took  pos- 
session of  New  York,  aiid  having  escaped  <!estruction  in  a  fire  that  con- 
sumed the  greater  part  of  New  York,  September  22,  the  church  was  again 
open  for  service  and  for  some  years  held  first  place  among  the  city 
churches,  being  used  as  a  city  church  and  attended  by  Washington. 

The  architect  was  a  .Scotchman  named  Mcliean.at  that  time  a  resident 
of  New  Brunswick,  N.  J.  It  is  supimsed  that  Mclican  was  a  pupil  or 
contemporary  of  (jibbs's  of  London,  there  being  a  strong  resemblance 
between  the  interior  of  McBean's  church  and  that  of  St.  Martin  in-the- 
Fields  by  Gibbs. 

In  1787  an  altar-piece  designed  by  Colonel  I. 'Enfant  was  i)ut  in,  and  on 
March  24,  1794,  the  steeple,  designed  by  Lawrence,  was  begun.  From 
then  on,  clock,  bell,  stoves,  chandeliers  and  other  details  were  added, 
until  the  building  of  the  churchyard  wall.  May  10,  1S09,  completed  St. 
Paul's  Chapel.  —  Ed. 

>  Plate  16,  Part  IV. 

2  Plate  3,  Part  IV. 

'The  present  building  was  erected  in  1S58.  —  Ed. 

'Plates  42-45,  Part  II  and  Plate  31,  Part  IV. 


FIj.  64.    Old  Stone  [Swedish]  Church,  1735,  Wilmington,  Del. 

than    to  a  confcious    revival.     There   are   no    buttrefles   or 
other  Gothic  features. 

In  Wilmington,  Del.,  tliere  is  a  fmall  old  ciiurch,  much 
praifed  by  Mr.  White  (Fig.  64).  He  finds  the  generous  fide 
porch  particularly  charming.  Its  pleafing  lines  are  no  doubt 
fomewhat  due  to  the  foftening  effects  of  time.     This  church 

*This  edifice  will  be  illustrated  in  a  future  Part.  —  Ed. 


i8 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


was  erected  by  the  Swedes  in  1735.  The  flill  older  fo-called 
'•Old  Swedes  Church"'  in  Philadelphia,  built  in  1700,  is  very 
limilar,  and  there  are  others.^ 

Two  civic  buildings  of  New  York  City  deferve  fpecial 
mention.  They  are  the  little  Sub-Treafury  Building  on  Wail 
Street  and  its  near  and  important  relative,  the  City-hall.' 
The  latter  is  too  well  known  to  require  many  words  (Plan, 


K-2I5-  9"^ 


Fig.  6S.    New  York  City-Hall,  1S03,  J.  McComb,  Architect. 

Fig.  65).  Its  architect  is  faid  to  have  been  John  McComb 
(i 763-1853)  born  in  New  York.  He  was  an  ardent  admirer 
of  Sir  \Vni.  Chambers's,  but  was  alfo  influenced  by  the 
brothers  Adam.  But  feme  wifli  to  credit  this  building  to  a 
certain  Mangin,  an  itinerant  French  draughtfman  employed 
by  McComb.  The  work  of  conftru6tion  lafled  from  1803  to 
1812.  The  entire  cofl  was  not  fully  half  a  million  dollars. 
It  is  built  of  marble  on  three  fides,  and  is,  in  execution,  an 
advance  over  earlier  buildings  in  mechanical  perfection  as 
well  as  in  monumental  defign.  But  even  this  ftruclure  par- 
takes of  the  Colonial  card-board  appearance.  This  building  is 
undoubtedly  the  fecond  beft,  largeft  and  the  latt  important  pro- 
duction of  the  period  under  confideration.  It  is  a  pity  that  its 
flyle  was  to  be  fwamped  by  the  Greek  revival  at  a  time  when 
it  feemed  flill  to  poffefs  vitality.  Its  predeceffor  on  Wall 
Street  was  a  comparatively  mean  affair  with  the  inevitable 
cupola  flraddling  the  roof-ridge. 

The  State-houfe,  or  the  fo-called  Independence  Hall,''  at 
Philadelphia,  built  in  1735,  is,  perhaps,  from  a  fentimental 
point-of-view,  the  moft  important  building  that  we  poffefs 
from  Colonial  times  (Fig.  66).  It  has  lately  been  reflored 
to  its  condition  in  1776  and  prefents  ftrong  fouthern  affini- 

'  This  edifice  will  be  illustrated  in  a  future  Patt.  —  Eds. 

■■'LoNGSWAMP's  Old  Church.  —  The  Longswaiiip  Reformed  Church 
congregation,  near  Mertztown,  Penn.,  of  which  the  Rev.  Nevin  W.  Hel- 
frich,  of  Allentown,  is  pastor,  celebrated  its  sesqui-centennial  on  New 
Year's  Day,  1899,  with  a  special  sermon  by  the  pastor.     ,    ■ 

As  early  as  1734  and  1735  settlers  came  from  Oley  into  what  is  now 
Longswamp  township  and  took  up  land  in  the  section  around  the 
church.  The  valley  was  known  among  the  Indians  as  Kittatinny  Valley. 
In  1748  Samuel  Hurge  and  Joseph  Uiery  were  selected  a  committee  to 
provide  for  the  erection  of  a  small  log  church. 

In  1790  it  was  decided  to  begin  the  erection  of  the  new  church,  and 
then  dissensions  arose.  The  members  divided  into  different  factions, 
each  faction  desiring  the  church  built  where  its  members  thought  best. 
Pastor  llertzel  was  a  diplomat,  and  suggested  that  the  old  German  way 
of  voting  be  used :  each  man  to  throw  his  hat  where  he  desired  the 
church  built,  and  wherever  the  most  hats  fell  there  it  was  to  be  built. 
This  was  accepted,  and  on  a  certain  day  all  the  members  gathered  and 
the  great  hat-throwing  contest  began.  Hats  fell  in  every  direction.  All 
the  hats  were  counted,  and  it  was  found  that  the  western  corner  had  the 
most  hats  gathered  on  it,  and  there  the  church  was  erected  in  perfect 
amity.  The  corner-stone  was  laid  in  1791.  The  Ilelfrichs  have  been 
pastors  of  this  church  for  upward  of  100  years.  —  Philadelphia  Times. 

•'  Plates  30,  and  34-37,  Part  II. 

iIndkpknijknce  11m. l.  — This  hall  was  begun  in  1729  and  finished  in 
1734.  There  is  some  doubt  as  to  the  architect.  Watson's  "^«««A  it/' 
Philadelphia  "  (1844)  holds  that  the  hall  was  built  by  Dr.  Kearsley,  while 
in  Westcott's  "  Mansions  cf  Philadelphia  "  (1877)  we  find  that  the  build- 
ing committee  was  composed  of  Dr.  Kearsley,  Lawrence  and  Andrew 
Hamilton,  then  speaker  of  the  Provincial  Assembly.  The  latter's  plan 
was  finally  adopted.  The  physician  had  dabbled  in  architecture  l)efore 
and  is  properly  accredited  with  the  designing  of  Christ  Church,  but  it  is 
not  known  that  the  lawyer,  Andrew  Hamilton,  had  before  interested  him 
self  in  such  matters.  Hamilton,  supposed  to  be  an  illegitimate  son  of 
Gov.  Andrew  Hamilton  of  Xew  Jersey,  was  a  very  highly  educated  man, 


ties,  in  having  a  wing  on  each  fide,  like  Figure  6g,  connected 
with  a  lower  portion,  as  well  as  in  its  general  long  low  lines. 
The  details  of  the  interior '^  are  quite  good  and  ClafTical ; 
marred,  however,  by 
fome  bizarre  at- 
tempts  at  innova- 
tion. Its  architedt 
was  James  (?)  Ham- 
ilton, alfo  an  ama- 
teur architect,  whofe 
profeffional  training 
was  that  of  a  lawyer. 
To  the  category 
of  public  flruclures 
mufl,  alfo,  be  added 
King's  College  Build, 
ing,  New  York,  Trin- 
ity's fofter-child.  In 
1756,  the  truflees  erefted  this  "  lime-houle,"  30'  x  180',  on  the 
Trinity  land-grant,  bounded  by  Church,  Murray  and  Barclay 
Streets  and  by  the  river,  a  fite  defcribed  as  being  "  in  the  fub- 


Fig.  66.  Slate-house  or  Independence  Hall,  1735, 
Pliiladelphia,  Pa.  Andrew  for  James]  Hamilton, 
Arcliitect. 


•       ■       •       ■      ■■      ..      »      f. 


Fig.  67.     Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

urbs."  The  defign  was  quite  fevere,  even  factory-like,  three 
flories  high  on  a  low  bafement.     Four  flight  projections  with 

having  finished  his  legal  education  at  Gray's  Inn,  London.  He  was  a 
protege  of  William  Penn's  and  later  held  several  public  offices,  being 
Attorney-General  of  the  Province  for  nine  years  and,  later,  seven  times 
elected  Speaker  of  the  Assembly.  He  died  August  4,  1741.  Montgom- 
ery Schuyler,  however,  in  an  article  in  ihe  Architectural  PecorJ  (]3^n\i- 
ary-March,  1895),  ascribes  the  authorship  to  Andrew's  son  James,  also 
a  lawyer  and  an  amateur,  but  we  feel  that  as  between  a  son  of  twenty- 
one  years  of  age  and  a  fatherof  fifty-five  the  character  of  the  design 
itself  is  testimony  in  favor  of  the  authorship  belonging  properly  to 
Andrew. 

Although  the  hall  was  finished  in  1734,  it  was  not  until  1750  that  the 
stair  tower  with  its  wooden  steeple  was  ordered  to  be  built.  The  lesser 
age  of  the  tower  may  be  verified  by  investigation  of  the  brick  courses  of 
the  tower  and  main  structure,  which  do  not  align,  and  of  the  open  joint 
between  the  tower  and  building. 

Independence  Hall  as  we  see  it  to-day,  restored  in  189S  under  the 
supervision  of  T.  Mellon  Rogers,  architect,  is  107  feet  long,  45  feet  deep, 
50  feet  high,  and  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the  steeple  is  160  feet. 
The  restoration  is  so  complete  and  successful  that  the  building  as  it 
now  stands  is  essentially  the  hall  of  1776. 

The  East  Room  on  the  ground-floor  was  occupied  by  the  Provincial 
Assembly  and  the  Second  Continental  Congress,  and  later  by  the  Federal 
Convention  of  1787.  The  West  Room,  ground-floor,  was  used  through 
the  Revolution  by  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  Provinces. 

The  modern  arch  and  Corinthian  columns  of  the  main  entrance  have 
been  replaced  by  plain,  heavy  oak  doors,  with  a  flat  arch  and  fan-light 
above.  On  the  ground  floor  much  of  the  original  construction  remained, 
making  the  task  of  restoration  comparatively  easy.  Here,  too,  were 
found  in  the  walls  the  original  soot-blackened  fireplaces.  The  restored 
second  floor  is  divided  into  three  rooms,  a  long  hall  with  a  frontage  of 
100  feet  on  Chestnut  Street,  and  two  small  rooms.  The  entrance-arch 
to  this  hall  is  finely  executed  and  Greek  in  character,  as  are  the  cornices 
and  mouldings  of  all  three  rooms.  In  the  upper  story,  as  in  the  lower, 
the  original  fireplaces  and  tiles  have  been  unwalled.  — Ed. 

6  Plates  23  ,24,  26  and  27,  Part  IV. 


DOMESTIC  ARCHITECTURE:     THE   SOUTHERN  PROVLXCES. 


19 


-^M 


fteep  pediments  varied  the  front.  Tlie  windows  and  door- 
ways were  plain.  The  hipped  roof  was  fiat  on  top,  with  a 
baluftrade  running  all  around  it.  An  oftagonal  cupola,  the 
(lock-in-trade  with  Colonial  builders,  fupported  the  famous 
copper  crown.  This  building  was  in  ufe  jult  about  one 
hundred  years. 

Taverns  have  played  an  important  part  in  New  York's 
hiftory.  Tne  old  Dutch  cuftom  of  difcuffmg  all  matters  over 
a  pot  feems  to  have  continued  far  down  into  the  feventeenth 

century.  The  cum- 
brous, and  often  dan- 
gerous, iign-boards 
were  flriking  features. 
Bull's  Head  Tavern 
is  the  one  mofl  fre- 
quently illuftrated 
(Fig.  68).  The  old 
Fraunces  Tavern  flill 
ftands  on   Broad  and 

Fig.  68.     Old  Bull's  Head  Tavem,  New  York  City.     „         ,   ^ 

The  "  Father  of  American  Libraries,"  at  Philadelphia,  and 
predeceffor  of  the  prefent  Ridgway  Library,  built  its  firff 
home  in  1790.  It  is  a  rather  inlignificant,  two-ftory  ftruclure 
with  a  low  hipped  roof.  In  the  middle  of  the  front  are  four 
tall  Ionic  columns,  with  full  entablature  and  pediment. 
Only  the  cornice  of  this  entablature  continues  around  the 
building. 

The  Capitol  in  the  City  of  Wafliington  was  the  mod  im- 
portant and  largeft  building  undertaken,  as  was  eminently 
proper.  In  its  defign  and  erection  are  involved  feveral 
names.  Here,  too,  we  meet  with  the  amateur  architecf. 
Dr.  William  Thornton  fubmitted  in  competition,  1793,  the 
moft  acceptable  plans.  Thefe  were  revifed  by  Hallet,  a 
Frenchman.  James  Hoban,  an  Irishman,  was  fuperintendent 
of  conftruftion  and  for  a  time  did  fnme  of  the  defigning.  In 
1795  George  Hadfield,  an  Knglifh  architect,  was  appointed. 
In  1803  Latrobe  became  architect.  In  1817  he  was  I'uc- 
ceeded  by  Charles  Bulfinch,  the  Borton  architect,  who  com- 
pleted the  ftruclure  in  1830.  Its  fize  was  121'  x  355'.  The 
dome  meafured  120  feet  to  the  top. 

This  now  magnificent  pile  was  a  fitting  dole  of  the  Colo- 
nial work  and  exemplified  the  best  elements.  Monumental, 
maflive  and  well  proportioned,  it  is  a  credit  to  the  country 
and  to  its  defigners. 

Although  the  fludy  of  the  architecture  of  tlie  Middle 
Provinces  has  not  been  without  intereft,  it  has  on  the  whole 
been  rather  unfatiffactory.  Tiiere  were  too  many  and  too 
various  elements.  No  unity  could  refult  in  l"o  Ihort  a  time  ; 
no  diftind  ftyle  was  evolved  ;  few  fingle  new  features,  even, 
were  produced.     All  this  was  quite  different  in  New  Eng- 


Fig.  69.     Old  Manor  Il.iuse,  Maryland. 

land,  as  we  have  feen.  So  it  was  in  the  Old  Dominion. 
The  peculiarities  of  a  MalTachufetts  or  of  a  Virginia  manfion 
are  fo  marked  as  to  be  readily  dilfinguiflied.  But  a  houfe  in 
the  Middle  Colonies  might  as  well  have  been  built  in  FLng- 
land,  in  Holland,  in  Germany,  in  .Sweden,  or  in  fome  otiier 
part  of  Colonial  America.  Moreover,  this  fection  has  almoil 
been  overlooked  by  writers  and  invefligators,  probably  on 
account  of  its  comparative  lack  of  interell. 


Fig.  70.     Plan  of  Brice  House,  Annapolis,  Md. 


THE    SOUTHERN    PROVINCES  :     DOMESTIC    ARCHITECTURE. 

In  the  Southern  Colonies,  in  the  land  of  romance,  we  en- 
counter many  new  elements.  The  ariftocratic  cavaliers  who 
fettled  there  differed  in  much  from  the  Puritans.  Their 
religion  was  that  of  the  Church  of  England.  Their  (laves 
were  moflly  black  men,  and  were  employed  in  the  raifing  of 
tobacco,  the  flaple  product.  "  Effentially  a  countryman 
by  preference,  he  [the  cavalier  planter]  loved,  above  all 
things,  the  comparative  folitude  of  a  great  country  home, 
with  its  dependent  village  of  fervants,  farm-hands  and  me- 
chanics, its  fta- 
bles  full  of  En- 
glish horfes,  its 
barns  filled  with  ,,^,^, 
high-bred  cattle,  !  R'Vi 
and,  beyond,  its  Y^ 
flourifliing  fields 
of  tobacco  and 
grain." 

Roads  in  this 

country  were  mere  bridle-paths.  The  traders  were  pedlers  ; 
the  artifans  were  tinkers.  Commerce  was  thought  unbefit- 
ting a  gentleman.  The  foil  was  very  fertile,  fo  that  the  plant- 
ers were  foon  enabled  to  indulge  in  a  lavinr  hofpitality, 
which,  however,  often  proved  ruinous.  The  uncertain  value 
of  tobacco,  which  fluctuated  from  year  to  year,  alfo  tempted 
to  live  above  means. 

Owing  to  the  origin  of  many  of  the  fettlers,  fome  of  whom 
were  fons  of  prominent  Englifli  noblemen,  there  was  from 
the  beginning  inuch  tafle  and  refinement.  Thus  the  Virginia 
gentry  were  the  firft  to  introduce  glafs  for  the  lighting  of 
rooms.  Comfortable  and  fubflantial  houfes  were  built  very 
early.  Perhaps  the  inherited  defire  of  the  Virginia  fettler  to 
live  in  dignity  and  fplendor  can  bed  explain  his  preference 
for  brick,  in  a  country  where  wood  was  the  moft  natural 
material,  and  where  it  was  everywhere  abundant.  Many  old 
and  lordly  manors  lie  fcattered  along  the  rivers,  mute  wit- 
nelTes  of  pall  glory. 

The  rivers  were  the  only  fafe  and  practicable  highways. 
For  this  reafon,  and  for  purpofes  of  commerce,  each  planter 
fought  to  have  his  own  river-front,  with  a  little  dock  to  which 
the  fmall  Dutch  and  New  England  velTels  would  come  for 
barter.  The  James  River  in  Virginia,  often  fpoken  of  as 
the  "Claffic  James,"  is  the  beft  known.  Some  of  the  im- 
portant manors  along  this  river  are:  Shirley,  built  in  1700; 
VVeftover,  built  in  1737  ;  Carter's  Grove  Hall,  Fig.  79,  built 
in  the  fame  year;  and  Brandon,  built  in  1790.  In  Mary- 
land is  the  Severn,  at  the  mouth  of  which  lies  charming  i\ji- 
napolis.  Others  of  fome  note  are  Goofe  Creek  in  South 
Carolina,  and  Well  River, 
the  York  and  the  Poto- 
mac in  Virginia,  all  of 
which,  and  many  others, 
ferved  as  highways  of 
travel. 

Towns  were  few  ;  cities 
almoft  none.  Jameflown, 
the  firft  attempt  at  a  fet- 
tlement  in  Virginia,  hadpig.  71. 
a  (hort  life.  Its  few  re- 
maining ruins  are  now  rapidly  crumbling, 
which  fuperfeded  it,  never  became  important  —  it  ftands  to- 
day, with  a  church  and  a  court-houfe,  almoil  the  identical 
country  town  it  was  a  hundred  years  ago. 

Annapolis  in  Maryland  is  exceptional.  Il  is  indeed  fortu- 
nate that  fo  complete  and  beautiful  a  little  city  as  this  has 
been   preferved.     Confitlerate   Progrefs  left  it  to  its  Colonial 


Ilarwood  House,  1770,  Annapolis,  Md. 

Williamsburg, 


20 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Fig*  72.     Pediment  Window  in  Harwood  House. 


glory  and  built  up  Baltimore.  The  older  Maryland  town  is 
remarkable  in  many  ways.  Its  (treats  radiate  from  two  cir- 
cular plazas.  Upon  the  larger  of  thefe  were  the  buildings  of 
the  State,  upon  the  fmaller  thofe  of  the  Church  —  pivotal 

points  of  focial  or- 
ganization. Bufinefs 
blocks  and  tradef- 
men's  houfes  were 
confined  by  law  with- 
in a  fixed  quarter 
near  the  dock.  The 
many  fine  refiden- 
ces,  fome  clofe  up  to 
the  (treat,  others  fet- 
ting  back,  were  gen- 
erally placed  in  large 
gardens  (loping 
towards  the  river. 
From  iha  upper 
windows  a  fine  view 
was  obtained  down  the  terraces  to  the  wooded  brink.  This 
little  "Queen  Anne  "  city  poffafled  not  only  civic  buildings, 
churches  and  fchools,  but  alfo  club-houfes,  a  theatre,  and  a 
race-courfe.  Its  profperity  began  about  1750,  and  laftad  only 
down  to  the  Revolution. 

Log-houfes  were  built  only  at  the  very  outfet.  Here,  too, 
the  puncheon  floor  was  the  firft  improvement.  Frame  houfes 
muft  have  been  rare.  Some  are  fpoken  of,  but  none  have 
been  found  worthy  of  illultration.  The  Southerner,  confider- 
ing  wood  a  poor  building-material,  did  not  difcovar  the  good 
ufe  to  which  clapboards  and  fhingles  can  be  put.  Bricks 
feemed  to  him  to  be  the  only  material  to  be  employed  in  a 
(tru6ture  of  any  importance.  Even  minor  (tructures,  fervants' 
quarters  and  out-buildings,  fuch  as  barns  (Fig.  82),  and  dove- 
cotes (Fig.  79),  were  generally  of  brick.  In  the  earlier  days 
the  bricks  were  imported,  flowed  away  as  ballad  in  returning 
fhips.  This,  however,  was  too  flow  and  expenfive,  and  foon 
they  were  burned  on  the  fpot,  good  clay  and  fuel  being 
abundant. 

Flemifh  bond  was  mo(t  commonly  ufed  by  bricklayers.  In 
many  inftances  the 
alternating  bricks 
were  of  a  darker  col- 
or, fometimes  even 
glazed.  The  device 
of  laying  all  the 
bricks  headers,  as 
done  in  the  Jennings 
houfe,  Annapolis,  is 
very  unfatiffaclory, 
the  bond  apparently 
being  weaker  than 
when  all  are  laid 
ftretchers. 

There  is  marked 
individuality  in  the 
planning,  on  account 
of  the  many  fmaller 
(tructures  required 
by  the  large  eftates 
with  their  hofts  o  f 
dependants.  In  Maryland,  the  offices,  fervants'  quarters, 
tool-houfes  and  the  like,  were  built  as  flory-and-a-half  wings 
connected  with  the  main  part  by  one-ftory  corridors  (Figs. 
69,70).  In  "Virginia,  on  tlie  other  hand,  ifolation  was  pre- 
ferred, and  thefe  fecondary  (trudtures,  though  low,  were  often 
two  ftories  in  height.  This  praftice,  however,  was  not  with- 
out exceptions. 


Fig.  73.     Rear  Door,  Tulip  Hill,  West  R.ver,  Md.,  1750, 


Fig.  74.     :•  Tulip  Hill,"  West  River,  Md, 


Generally  the  plans  were  fymmetrical  —  a  wing  on  one 
fide  balanced  by  one  on  the  other,  with  the  entrance  in  the 

middle.  In 
Virginia  this 
opened  upon  a 
hall  running 
right  through. 
Shirley  manor  is 
an  exception, 
and  is  faid  to 
have  a  French 
mediaeval  proto- 
type. In  this 
building,  50'  x 
80',  the  hall  is  in 
thenorthweftern 
corner.  Similar 
planning  was 
quite  common  in 
Annapolis,  in 
which  place 
many  other 
traces  of  French 
influence  are  found.  In  the  Chafe  houfe,  at  Annapolis, 
the  rooms   are  arranged  alfo  upon  a  tranfverfe  axis. 

The  plan  being  fymmetrical,  it  was  only  natural  that  a  like 
difpofition  fliould  be  found  in  the  fagade.  In  the  Harwood 
houfe,  Annapolis  (Fig.  71),  the  axis  of  the  front  is  well 
marked  by  the  doorway  of  the  firft  ftory,  by  a  fplendid  win- 
dow above  and  by  a  rich  buU'f-eye  in  the  attic.  A  detail  of 
this  attic  window  is  given  in  Figure  72.  The  flight  proje6tion 
of  the  middle  part,  with  a  pediment  over,  is  common  in  An- 
napolis. In  this  cafe,  however,  it  is  entirely  unwarranted  by 
the  interior  arrangements. 

Ornamental  wall  pilafters  or  femi-detached  columns  never 
occur  on  thefe  brick  ftrudtures.  The  neareft  approach  to 
them  is  found  under  porches,  where  they  are  ufed  as  re- 
fponds  to  the  free-flanding  columns.  Porches,  however,  are 
rare:  in  the  earlier  buildings  they  were  entirely  wanting. 
Some  were  added  later,  as  the  fettlers  learned  the  exigencies 
,       -  of  the  climate.     The 

*Y#^    *  difpofition     of    the 

columns  is  very 
fimple,  with  little  at- 
tempt at  variety.  The 
Annapolis  porches 
were,  moflly,  mere 
little  entrance  ftoops; 
often  there  were  none 
at  all.  Perhaps  the 
brick  walls,  from  two 
or  three  feet  thick, 
afforded  an  ampler 
protection  againft  the 
hot  fun  than  did  the 
frame  enclofures  of 
New  England. 

Two-ftory  porches, 
fuch  as  that  in  Figure 
69,  occur  in  fome  in- 
ftances. Gov.  Bull 
Pringle's  manfion  in  South  Carolina  has  a  fomewhat  fimilar 
porch.  Some  few  examples  very  like  the  chara<5teriftic  Con- 
necticut porches  (Fig.  17)  are  alfo  to  be  feen. 

The  buildings  were  rarely  more  than  two  ftories  high,  with 
low,  hipped  roofs.  Some  of  the  earlier  ftructures,  as  Weft- 
over  (built  in  1737),  had  very  Itaep  roofs.  In  a  few  inftances 
the  end  walls  were  carried  up  with  a  huge  chimney  rifing  out 


nOMESTJC  ARCHITECTURE :    THE  SOUTHERN  PROVINCES 


2i 


of  the  ridge.  The  gambrel  roof  was  not  ufed  at  all,  and  the 
flat  roof  was  exceptional.  It  was  employed  on  the  huge  pile 
of  Rofewell,  three  (lories  high  and  ninety  feet  square.  The 
conftrudtion  of  this  manor  and  a  too  lavifh  hofpitality  in- 
volved its  owner  in  fo  deep  a 
debt  that  his  fon  and  succelTor 
had  to  apply  for  permiffion  to  fell 
a  part  of  the  eftate  —  the  Englifh 
law   of   entail   being   ftridtly   ob- 


The  beft  one  of  thefe  is  illuftrated  in  Figure  76.  Hardly  any 
(ingle  feature  could  be  cited  better  to  illurtrate  the  wealth 
and  tafte  of  its  nabob  owner.  Thefe  gates  were  of  courfe 
imported  from  England,  all  the  handicrafts,  efpecially  in  the 

South,  being  ftill  in  their  infancy. 
Figure  77,  illuftrating  the  tops 
of  two  fence-pods  at  Weftover, 
fhows  the  care  and  attention 
given  even  to  very  fmall  matters. 
Many  gardens,  efpecially  in 
Annapolis,  muft  have  been  fplen- 
did  in  their  prime,   laid   out   as 


I 


Pig.  73.    From  the  Chase  House,  1770, 
Annapolis,  Md. 

ferved.  Rofewell  has  fince  been 
(landing  tenantlefs  for  a  century, 
no  owner  being  wealthy  enough 
to  keep  it  up. 

T-i  ..  Fig.  76.    Front  Gate 

Dormers  were    not   very   com- 
mon, and  were  but  little  varied  in  defign.     Baludrades  were 
never  ufed  upon  the  roof  and  occur  rarely  anywhere.     The 
roof   covering   was  ordinarily   of   tin,    ftanding-feam   joint : 
flates  and  (hingles  were  alfo  fometimes  ufed. 

The  entrances  were  treated,  much  as  in  the  other  colonies, 
with  a  flanking  order  fupporting 
a  pediment.  Over  the  door 
there  is  ufually  a  tranfom,  but 
fide-lights  are  almod  entirely 
wanting.  A  rather  ingenious 
variation  of  the  dull  hood  is 
^^  given  in  Figure  73,  from  Mary- 

L-^^rr~~%,  land. 

•^  Palladian  windows  were  rare. 

The  fine  example  from  the  Chafe 
houfe  (Fig.  75),  once  before  re- 
ferred to,  is  quite 
unique.  O  ther 
windows  are  very 
fimple,  ufually 
mere  openings  in 
the  wall  with  flat 
brick  arches  above. 
The  two  central 
windows  of  the 
liar  wood  h  o  u  f  e 
(Fig.  71)  are  ex- 
ceptionally elab- 
orate. The  wood- 
work  of  the  doors 

Pig.  78.    Carter's  Hall,  James  River,  Va.  and  windows,  as  in- 

deed all  the  other  wooden  trim,  was  painted  white  fo  as  to 
fet  off  againd  the  deep  red  of  the  bricks. 

But  little  fpace  can  be  devoted  to  the  accelTories,  fome  of 
which  are  quite  elaborate  and  well  dudied.  Wellover,  on  the 
James    Uiver,  poffeffes   three   beautiful  wrought-iron   gates. 


Westover,  Va. 


Fig.  79.     Pigeon-House,  James  River,  Va. 

fome  of  them  were  fuppofed  to 
be  "  after  the  Italian  manner," 
with  datuary,  flirubbery,  paths 
and  doping  terraces.  So,  too,  in 
the  lefs  poetic  matter  of  outbuild- 
ings the  charming  dove-cote  at  Shirley  (Fig.  79)  fliows  its 
owner's  careful  confideration  and  preference  for  fubftantiality 
in  all  things. 

Here,  as  in  New  England,  the  halls  were  made  into  fump- 
tuous  features.  That  at  Carter's  Grove  is  twenty-eight  feet 
wide,  or  one-third  of  the  entire  floor-area.  A  fine  arch,  on 
wall-columns,  ufually  divides  the  front  part  of  the  hall  from 
the  rear,  which  contains  the  dairs.  Thefe  are  in  three  runs, 
the  fteps  broad  and  eafy,  with  three  baluders,  each  different, 
for  every  tread  (Fig.  80).  The  rail  ends  in  a  fcroU  at  the 
bottom,  with  the  lad  balluder,  more  elaborate  than  the  others. 


Pig.  77.     Fence  Posts,  Westover,  on 
James  River,  Va. 


Fig.  80.     Slair  Siring,  Carter's  Grove,  Va.,  173;. 

fpirally  carved  (Fig.  84).     Mahogany  was  ufed  in  the  bed 
examples. 

The  walls  were  wainfcoted  in  wood  up  to  tiie  ceilings  in 
large  panels,  though  fometimes  plader  panels  were  ufed. 
The  ceilings  were  often  decorated  in  delicate  plader  relief, 
in    a   fomewhat   rococo   dyle.     The   cornice    was   of   many 


22 


THE    GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


members,  often  with  rich  modillions.     In  the  Chafe  lioufe  the 
frieze  is  decorated  with  a  fine  Greel<  wave  motive. 

From  thefe  cool,  wind-fwept  halls  two  views  could  be  ob- 
tained —  in  the  one  direction,  down  the  terraces  to  the  placid 
river,  in  the  other,  up  the  rifing  plantation  to 
the  wooded  hills  beyond. 

The  Heps  were  in  fome  infbances  of    folid 


show  marked  French  influence,  as  in  Figures  83,  90  and 
91,  which  have  very  different  merit  in  defign.  Figure  90, 
remarkably  beautiful  in  itfelf,  looks  weak  and  inappropri- 
ate as  the  bafe  of  an  architrave. 

Niches,  common  enough  decorative 
devices  in  Europe,  occur  rarely  in 
Colonial  work.     In  the  upper  hall  of 


Fig.  81.    Scott  House, 


I/: 

1780,  Annapolis,  Md 


Fig.  84.     Stair  Balustrade,  Carter's  Grove.  Va. 


Fig.  85.     Westover,  Va.,  1737. 


timbers  projecting  from  the  wall,  each  refting  on  the  one  be- 
low. A  fimilar  device,  borrowed  from  ftone  confbruftion, 
was  ufed  in  one  of  the  Colonial  country  houfes  in  New  York 
State  (Fig.  86).  One  might  reafonably  expect  lefs  of  light- 
nefs  and  caprice,  and  more  of  folidity  and  formality  in  the 


Fig.  82.     Stable  at  Homewood,  Nid.,  1780. 

details  and  finifh  of  a  houfe  with  brick  walls  two  or  three  feet 
thick  than  in  one  with  a  fix  or  eight  inch  frame  enclofure. 
This  expeftation  is  partly  juflified.  The  mantelpieces,  many 
of  them  of  white  or  variegated  marble,  were  quite  fimple  and 

_        ClafTic  in  defign,     as  may 


%mmM 


be  feen  in  Figure  85, 
a  very  beautiful  piece  of 
work.  Croifettes  andegg- 
and-dart  mouldings  feem 
to  have  been  the  main 
elements  of  defign  ;  fome 
very  elaborate  rococo 
mantels  harmonizing  well 
with  the  other  details  of 
the  room,  are  found  in 
Annapolis.  Slender, 
graceful  mantels  in  wood, 
with  a  wealth  of  hand- 
carved  flutes  and  beads 
are  by  no  means  wanting. 
They  are  ufually,  as  in 
Figure  87,  further  en- 
riched by  a  putty  decoration  of  delicate  modelling.  PiCl:ured 
Du'ch  tiles  do  not  occur  —  the  cavaliers  did  not  come  to 
America  by  way  of  Holland. 

The  door  and  window  trims  are  quite  Claflical.     Often  they 


Fig.  83.     ]Joor-Iiead,  Wliiteliall,  Md. 


the  Chafe  houfe  are  two  which  balance  one  another,  at  the 
head  of  tiie  flairs  (Fig.  92).  The  niche  was,  however,  com- 
monly adapted  to  the  ufeful  purpofe  of  a  cupboard  (Fig. 
93).  Similar  treatment  with  fliell  carving  occurred  in  New 
England  (Fig.  28). 

SOUTHERN    PUBLIC    ARCHITECTURE:    SECULAR    BUILDINGS. 

We  have  feen  that  few  public  buildings  were  required  in 
New  England  :  (till  fewer  are  to  be  found  in  the  Southern 
Colonies    with  their  fmall  and  fparfe  fettlements.     Except- 
ing the  churches, 
which  are  moftly 
unpretentious 
and    common- 
place,  there  are 
hardly   any  pub- 
lic  flruftures  to 
be  difcuffed. 

The  names  of 

fome  defigners  have  been  handed  down,  among  which  is 
that  of  the  illuflrious  Wren.  To  him  are  attributed,  with  per- 
haps fcant  foundation  in  fact,  the  Court-houfe  and  the  firlt 
buildings  for  William  and  Mary  College  at  Williamsburg, 
Va.     The  Court  houfe  (Fig.  94)  is  a  fimple    little  ftru6ture. 


Fig.  86. 

Wadsworth  House,  New  Vorl< 
State. 


Cliase  House,  1770,  An- 
napolis, Md. 


Fig.  87.     Cazanove,  Alexandria,  Va.,  about  1S06. 

not  unpleafing,  though  looking  rather  much  like  a  fchool- 
houfe,  in  fpite  of,  or  perhaps  rather  in  confequence  of,  the 
indifpenfable  cupola.  The  abfence  of  porch  columns,  which 
feems  to  have  been  a  part  of  the  original  defign,  is  very 
(Iriking. 


ECCLESIASTICAL   ARCHITECTURE :    THE  SOUTHERN  PROVINCES. 


23 


The  State-houfe  and  St.  John's  College  of  Annapolis  are  to  the  Doric.     He  made  a  confcious  and  ftudious  effort  to 

quite   large    and   very   fimilar.     Each    is  unfortunate  in  its  "do  the  proper  thing"  in  the  Italian  RenailTance  ftyle,  in- 

badly  proportioned  dome,  which  we  would  like  to  believe  to  eluding  the  laying-out  of  gardens  with  all  manner  of  acceffo- 

be  later  additions.     In  other  refpefts  they  have  the  Colonial  nes.     But  in  fpite  of  this  he  did  many  queer  things.     One 


Fig.  88.     Mantel,  Williamsburg,  Va. 

charadleriftics.  The  Cuftom-houfe  at  Charleflon,  ,S.  C.  (Fifj. 
95),  is  alfo  a  plealing  ftruclure,  well  e.xprtffing  its  civic  defti- 
nation.  It  has  hilloric  interell  from  its  ufe  as  a  prifon  during 
the  Revolution. 

The  verfatile  Thomas  Jefferfon  is  to  be  found  alfo  among 
the  defigners.  As  an  amateur  architect  he  may  be  faid  to 
have  been  unufually  fucceffful.  The  Univerfity  of  Virginia, 
of  which  he  was  both  founder  and  architect,  is  his  beft  known 
work.     It  is,  perhaps,  the  firfl  ftruclure  in  America  in  which 

the  dome  was  ufed 
as  an  important 
exterior  and  in- 
terior feature 
(Figs.  89,  96). 
The  buildings   en- 


i!i////////y/y/<w//////////.//m/. 


Fig.  89.     University  of  Virginia,  Cliarlottesville,  Va. 


clofe  three  fides  of  a  quadrangle  200'  x  600'.  They  colt  the 
great  fum  of  $300,000,  an  immenfe  amount  for  thofe  times. 
The  group  exhibits,  as  do  few,  if  any,  contemporary  Colonial 
works,  an  appreciation  of  monumental  planning  in  its  lar<;e, 
fimple  and  well-defined  maffes.  Much  of  it  has  lately  been 
rebuilt  and  added  to  by  the  architects  McKiin,  Mead  &  White. 
of  New  York,  fince  the  fire  of  1894,  which  came  near  deftroy- 
ing  this  very  interefting  composition. 

Two  domeftic  ftruclures  are  afcribed  to  Jefferson  :  Farm- 
ington  and  his  own  Monticello  both  tiear  Charlotteville,  Va. 


^^^^^^^fA^fiiiiU  i 


Fig.  90.     liase  of  Arctlilrave,  Chase 
House,  .Annapolis,  .Md. 


l-i(r-  91.     I!,i5e  of  .\rcliilr.i 
UhiidLill,  Va. 


Theconflruction  and  the  embellilhment  of  Monticello  brought 
him  to  bankruptcy  during  the  hill  days  of  his  life. 

Jefferfon  had  a  preference  for  cololfal  columns.     He  em- 
ployed all   of    the  five  orders,  but    confined  himfelf    molUy 


Fig.  92.    From  Crane  House, 
1770,  Annapolis,  Md. 


Fig.  93.     From  Gunston  Hall,  Va.,  1757. 


Fig.  94. 


Court. House,  W'illiamsburg,Va.,  about  1700. 
Sir  C.  Wren,  Architect. 


conceit  was  the  ornamentation  of  the  drawing-room  frieze, 
which  confifled  of  ox  fkulls,  vafes,  tomahawks,  rofettes,  war- 
clubs,  fcalping-knives  and  the  like.  Another  was  a  combina- 
tion of  dumb-waiter  and  fireplace. 

Jefferfon  was  a  man  of  feme  mechanical  ingenuity,  and  he 
invented    many  interefting   and   ufeful   appliances.     At  the 

Univerfity  he  at- 
tempted to  build  a 
brick  wall  four  feet 
high  and  only  four 
i  nches,  or  one  brick, 
thick.  To  do  this 
and  make  it  ftable, 
he  built  it  in  a 
waving  line,  fome- 
what  after  the  man- 
ner of  a  fplit-rail 
fence. 

The  capitol  of 
\'irginia  at  Richmond  is  alfo  in  a  meafure  due  to  Jeflfer- 
fon's  energies.  The  defign  is  by  M.  Clariffault,  a  French 
architect  confidered  for  his  day  "  moft  correct."  The  build- 
ing meafures  70'  x  134'. 

But  little  that  is  new  can  be  faid  of  the  few  churches  which 
remain  and  are  illufl;rated.  In  all  the  public  architecture 
there  was  far  lefs  of  individuality  and  of  interefl  than  in  pri- 
vate work.  Tradition  tells  that  St.  Luke's  Church,  Newport 
Parilh,  Va.,  was  built  in  1632,  or  even  two  years  before  the 
Cr.idock  houfe  mentioned  in  the  beginning  of  this  paper. 
But  this  is  hardly  credible,  though  it  mull  be  very  old.  It  is 
30'  X  50',  with  a  tower  18  feet 
fqnare,  50  feet  high,  without 
offfets.  It  has  coupled 
pointed  windows  and  but- 
treffes.  The  doorway  is 
round  arched.  'I'liere  are 
brick  quoins  on  the  angles. 
This  okl  building  has  lately 
been  rellored. 

St.  Michael's  Church,  at 
Charledon,  S.  C.  [1752], 
feems  to  have  been  one  of 
the  largell  and  molt  preten- 
tious. It  has  li  Doric  portico 
of  four  cololfal  columns. 
Its  large  W'renlike  tower 
is  rather  ungainly,  tapering  awkwardly,  and  infufficiently 
crowned  by  a  Ituinpy  fpire.  Its  fize  is  58'  x  80',  the  fpire 
192  feet  high.  It  was  built  from  defigns  imported  from  Eng- 
land.    St.   Phillip's,  alfo    of    Charlelton,  was  built  in    1733, 


Fig.  95.     Custom. House,  1752,  Charleston, 
S.  C.     From  S.  Michael's  Church. 


24 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


thus  being  fomewhat   older,  in  fize ,  62' x  74',  but  in  many 

other  refpe(5ts  fimilar. 

All  that  remains  of  the  ruined  church  in  old  Jameflown  is 

the  bafe  of  tlie  tower,  now  almoft  overgrown  with  gnarled 

trees,  and  looking  difmal 
and  forlorn  in  the  low 
fwr.mps.  It  has  been  a 
favorite  fubjeft  with  the 
hunter  after  the  pi6tur- 
efque. 

On  Goofe  Creek,  in 
South  Carolina,  is  another 
inlerefting  ruin  ^  (Fig.  97). 
The  interior,  ftill  in  a  fair 
condition,  w'ith  well-pre- 
ferved  frefcos,  poiTeffes  a 
rather  fine    pulpit,    refem- 

bling  fomewhat  the  one  in  King's  Chapel,  Bofton,  previoufly 

referred  to. 

The   Williamsburg  church,  illuftrated   in    Figure  99,  is  a 

large  plain  ftrufture.     A  travelling  Englifliman  defcribed  it 

one  hundred  years  ago  as  an  "  indifferent  church."     He  was 


Fig.  ^d.     University  of  Virginia,  iJ'i?,  fliar- 
lottesville,  Va.    T.  Jefferson,  Architect. 


Fig.  97.     St.  James's  Chnrcli,  fjoose  Creek,  S.  C,  1711. 

right,  but  Time  has  foftened  its  hard  lines,  partly  covered  it 
■with  green,  and  otherwife  tinted  it  with  foft  and  mellow 
tones  from  his  varied  palette. 

The  other  Virginia  churches,  illuftrated  in  Bifhop  Meade's 
''■History"  are  all  of  llight  intereft.     The  beft  one  is  given 


in  Figure  98.  The  Southern  gentry  were  not  very  churchy, 
and  it  is  hardly  to  be  expefted  that  they  would  have  left  us 
any  remarkable 
ftrudtures. 

This  fhort  re- 
view of  Southern 
Colonial  work 
may  have  ferved 
to  fliow  that  there 
was  in  that  fec- 
tion  much  build- 
ing activity.  The 
manors  of  the 
planters  have 
been     1  e  f  s    d  i  f- 

turbed  than  have  the  houfes  of  the  New  England  builders. 
Progrefs,  that  friend  and  deftroyer  in  one,  has  paffed  them  by. 
The  South  received  a  greater  fet-back  in  the  Revolution  than 
did  the  North.  Then  came  the  Civil  War.  It  is  only  lately 
that  fome  of  the  eftates  are  beginning  to  rally.  A  few  have 
been  put  in  lliape ;  fences  have  been  rebuilt  and  the  fields 


Fig.  98.     St.  Jolin's  Churcli,  1660-67,  Hampton,  Va. 


Fig.  99.     Clirist  Cliurcli,  Williamsburg,  Va.,  1678  or  1710. 

once  more  bear  harvefts.  Others  ftill  lie  defolate.  From  all, 
the  fpirit  of  the  old  cavaliers  has  fled  as  completely  as  has  the 
fpirit  of  Puritanifm  from  New  England.  But  the  South  is 
waking  up  and  profperity,  with  its  train  of  attendants,  is 
returning  to  the  Old  Dominion. 


-:'^>^:i^-^^«^^t5<^ 


In  this  paper  I  have  attempted  to  fketch  the  main  char- 
acteriftics  of  our  Colonial  architecture,  the  only  national 
ftyle  as  yet  evolved  in  America.  The  material  at  hand  has 
not  always  been  adequate.  Several  important  topics  have 
been  much  neglected.  'I'he  ftudy  of  public  buildings  is 
efpecially  unfatiffactory.  Here  feenis  to  be  a  field  for 
further  inveftigation,  though  perhaps  a  rather  unprofitable 
one.  The  domeftic  architefture  is,  after  all,  the  beft,  and  in 
fpite  of  the  conftant  reiteration  that  everything  was  imported 
—  ideas,  defigns,  materials,  architedts  and  all — one  can  not 
help  feeling  that  there  was  fufficient  of  a  new  fpirit  infufed 
and  enough  of  limiting  conditions  of  new  materials  and  needs 
to  produce  marked  individuality.  Add  to  this  the  abfence 
of  many  Old  World  features,  fuch  as  Englifli  quadrangular 
planning  and  half-timbered  houfes,  and  the  difference  becomes 
ftill  more  noticeable. 


1  Plate  6,  I'art  III. 


It  is  hardly  poffible  to  clofe  this  review  without  a  few 
words  about  the  prefent  revival  of  Colonial  work.  This 
revival  emphafizes  the  value  and  the  refources  of  the  ftyle, 
and  augurs  well  for  the  future.  Our  defigners,  after  having 
wandered  through  many  and  dry  places,  have  returned  for 
infpiration  to  the  rich  fountain  of  Claffic  work.  They  have 
not  returned  to  fervility  though,  but  to  ufe  the  refources  much 
as  did  our  Colonial  builders,  and  to  adapt  their  devices  and 
to  invent  new  ones,  fo  as  ftill  better  to  fatiffy  the  require- 
ments of  beauty,  utility  and  comfort. 

But  thinking  of  this  revival  we  are  reminded  of  the  very 
ftarting-point  of  this  effay,  and  no  better  clofing  words  could 
be  found  than  thofe  with  which  we  began  :  — 

"  Men  can  with  difficulty  originate  even  in  a  new  hemisphere." 

Olof  Z.  Cervin. 


The  Verplanck  Homestead,  Fishkill,  N.  Y, 

[Date,   1740.] 


The  Old  Verplanck  Homestead  at  FNMtill 
Cincinnat 


THE  Verplanck  homestead  stands  on  the  lands  granted 
by  the  VVappinger  Indians,  in  1683,  to  Gulian  Ver- 
planck and  Francis  Rombout,  under  a  license  given 
by  Governor  Thomas  Dongan,  Commander-in-Chief 
of  the  Province  of  New  York,  and  confirmed,  in  1685,  by 
letters-patent  from  the  King,  James  II.  The  purchase  in- 
cluded "  all  that  Tract  or  Par- 
cell  of  land  Scituate  on  the  Eaft  ^.a;'svJ®  Csi^K_^.'.i^.'  /) 
fide  of  Hudfon's  river,  begin-  •; 
ning  from  the  South  fide  of  a 
Creek  called  the  frefh  Kill  and  ■ 
by  the  Indians  Matteawan,  and 
from  thence  Northward  along 
faid  Hudfon's  river  five  hun- 
dred Rodd  beyond  the  Great 
Wap  pin's  Kill,  and  from 
thence  into  the  woods  fouer 
Houres  goeing";  or,  in  our 
speech,  easterly  sixteen  Eng- 
lish miles.  There  were  eighty 
five  thousand  acres  in  this  grant,  and  tlie  "  Schedull  or  Per- 
ticuler"  of  money  and  goods  given  to  the  natives,  in  ex- 
change, by  Francis  Rumbout  and  Gulyne  Ver  Planke  sounds 
oddly  to-day  ; 

One  hundred  Koyalls, 

One  hundred  Pound  Powder, 

Two  hundred  fathom  of  white  Wampum, 

One  hundred  Uarrs  of  lead, 

One  hundred  fathom  of  black  Wampum, 

Thirty  tobacco  boxes,  ten  holl  adzes, 

Thirty  Ounns,  twenty  Blankets, 

Forty  fathom  of  DufiSls, 

Twenty  fathom  of  stroudwater  Cloth, 

Thirty  Kittles,  forty  Hatchets, 

Forty  Homes,  forty  Shirts, 

Forty  pair  gtockins. 

Twelve  coates  of  B.  C, 

Ten  drawing  Knives, 

Forty  earthen  Juggs, 

Forty  Bottles,  Fouer  ankers  Kum, 

Forty  Knives,  ten  halfe  Vatts  Beere, 

Two  hundred  tobacco  pipes. 

Eighty  pound  tobacco. 

The  purchasers  were  also  to  pay  Governor  Dongan  six 
bushels  of  good  and  merchantable  winter  wheat  every  year. 
The  deed  is  recorded  at  Albany  in  Vol.  5  of  the  Book  of 
Patents. 

Before  1685  Gulian  Verplanck  died,  leaving  minor  chil- 
dren, and  settlements  on  his  portion  of  tiie  land  were  thus 
postponed.  Divisions  of  the  estate  were  made  in  1708,  in 
1722,  and  again  in  1740.  It  is  not  accurately  known  when 
the  Homestead,  the  present  low  Dutch  farm-house  was  built, 
but  we  know  that  it  stood  where  it  now  stands,  before  the 
Revolutionary  War,  and  the  date  commonly  assigned  to 
the  building  is  a  little  bsfore  1740. 

The  house  stands  on   a  bluff   overlooking  the    Hudson, 


about  a  mile  and  one-half  north  of  Fishkill  Landing.  It  is 
one-story  and  one-half  high,  of  stone,  plastered.  The  gam- 
brel-roof  is  shingled,  descends  low  and  has  dormer  windows. 
The  house  has  always  been  occupied  and  is  in  excellent 
preservation.  Baron  Steuben  chose  it  for  his  headquarters, 
no  doubt  for  its  nearness  to  Washington's  headquarters  across 

the  river,  and  for  the  beauty 
and  charm  of  the  situation. 
It  is  made  still  further 
famous  by  the  fact  that  under 
its  roof  was  organized,  in  1783, 
the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati. 
The  room  then  used  is  on  the 
right  of  the  hall,  and  is  care- 
fully preserved.  In  fancy  we 
can  picture  the  assembly  of 
officers  grouped  about  Wash- 
ington, in  that  west  room  over- 
looking the  river,  pledging 
themselves  to  preserve  the 
memories  of  the  years  during  which  they  had  struggled  for 
their  country's  being. 

The  whole  neighborhood,  especially  the  village  of  Fish- 
kill,  which  was  the  principal  settlement  in  the  county  at  that 
date,  has  many  Revolutionary  associations.  The  interior 
army  route  to  Boston  passed  through  the  village;  this  was  a 
depot  of  army  stores,  and  workshops  and  hospitals  were  es- 
tablished. Here  was  forged  the  sword  of  Washington,  now 
in  the  keeping  of  the  United  States  Government,  and  ex- 
hibited in  the  late  t'entennial  collection.  It  is  marked  with 
the  maker's  name,  J.  ]5ailey,  Fishkill. 

The  New  York  Legislature,  retiring  before  the  approach 
of  the  British,  after  the  evacuation  of  the  city,  came  at  last 
to  Fishkill,  and  here  the  constitution  of  the  State  was 
printed,  in  1777,  on  the  press  of  Samuel  Loundon,  the  first 
book,  Lossing  says,  ever  printed  in  the  State. 


.  Hudson  River,  in  which  the  Society  of  the 
i  ori::inated. 


Mav  20,  iSgg,  there  was  unveiled  with  appro|)riate  ceremonies  a  tablet 
placed  on  this  house  by  the  Colonial  Dames  of  the  State  of  New  York. 
The  inscription  on  this  tablet  reads  :  — 

Mount  CiILIan 

Built  about  1740  by 

Cui.iAN   Vkr  Pi.anck 

Grandson  of  Guman  Vkk  Planck 

Who  inJKCHASEi)  THF,  Adjacknt  Land 

From  tiif,  Wapi'Inh'.fr  Indians  in  16H3. 

Hkaimjuariers  of  Baron  Von  Steui!1-;n 

Thk  Society  of  the  Cincinnati  was 

Instituted  here  May,  1783. 

Placed  iiv  the  Colonial  Dames 
OF  THE  State  of  New  Vokk 

MDCCCXCIX 
VirTUIE    MA.IORfM    FILI.-F,    CONSERVANT. 


2S 


26 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Some  years  after  peace  was  restored,  the  Verplanck  family 
appear  to  have  occupied  the  Homestead  from  time  to  time. 
Philip  Verplanck,  a  grandson  of  Gulian,  the  original  grantee, 
was  a  native  of  the  Patent,  but  his  public  life  was  spent  else- 
where. He  was  an  engineer  and  surveyor,  and  an  able  man. 
Verplanck's  Point  in  Westchester  County,  where  Fort  La- 
fayette stood  during  the  Revolution,  was  named  for  him,  and 
he  represented  that  Manor  in  the  Colonial  Assembly  from 
1734  to  1768.  Finally,  Daniel  Crommelin  Verplanck  with 
his  large  family  —  one  of  his  sons  being  the  well-known 
Gulian  C.  Verplanck,  born  here  in  1786 — came  to  live  in 
the  old  home  permanentl)'.  He  had  led  an  active  life  in 
New  York,  served  in  Congress  and  on  the  bench,  and  now 
retired  to  the  quiet  of  the  country.     It  was  he  who  planted 


the  fine  old  trees  which  now  shade  the  lawn  ;  among  them 
the  coffee-tree  so  much  admired.  About  1810  the  north  end, 
built  of  wood,  was  added  to  the  old  house.  Architects  were 
not  numerous,  apparently,  in  those  days,  so  the  Dutch  type 
was  lost  in  making  this  large  addition,  though  the  interior  is 
quaint,  dignified  and  interesting.  It  was  from  under  its  roof 
that  Daniel  C.  Verplanck  was  carried  to  his  last  resting- 
place  as  his  father  before  him,  and  generations  after  him 
lived  and  still  live  in  the  old  Homestead. 

For  the  above  description,  prepared  with  no  little  pains- 
taking, of  an  interesting  house  and  demesne,  as  well  as  for 
the  loan  of  the  photograph  from  which  I  made  my  pen-and- 
ink  sketch  of  it,  I  am  wholly  indebted  to  a  member  of  the 
Verplanck  family  and  a  mutual  friend.  A.  J.  Bloor. 


The  Roof  of  the  Old  South  Meeting-House,  Boston/ 

[Date,   1729.] 


AS  an  example  of  American  carpentry  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  ago,  the  roof  of  the  "  Old  South  "  in 
Boston  merits  a  passing  notice.  Having  had  re- 
cent occasion  [1876]  to  examine  the  building,  the 
accompanying  drawing  of  the  roof'  was  made  ;  and  as  a  mat- 
ter of  record,  as  being  a  curious  example  of  early  colonial 
work  which  would  be  generally  interesting,  and  as  an  ex- 
ample to  others  to  detail  any  quaint  bit  of  work  falling 
within  their  observation,  I  herewith  register  a  few  facts  in 
regard  to  it. 

The  roof  of  the  building  (which  is  some  65'  x  95')  is  sup- 
ported by  six  trusses  spaced  at  about  equal  distances  from 
each  other,  but  the  last  truss  somewhat  farther  from  the  rear 
wall,  in  order  to  avoid  too  steep  a  pitch  from  it  to  that  wall. 
The  workmanship  is  quite  primitive  and  rude,  most  of  the 
timber  being  hewn  sticks  ;  and  the  sapwood  at  the  angles  is 
in     many     instances 

affected    by    dry-rot,  A^ 

or,  in  common  par- 
lance, is  "  powder- 
posted." 

The  trusses  are 
much  sprung  and  dis- 
torted, both  horizon- 
tally and  laterally — 
variously  in  different 
trusses;  but,  from  a  consideration  of  some  defects  common 
to  them  all,  their  story  may  be  guessed  with  a  considerable 
degree  of  accuracy.  The  execution  of  the  roof  indicates  ship- 
builders' work;  and,  in  the  days  when  the  division  of  labor 
had  not  reached  its  present  development,  it  is  more  than 
probable  that  men  who  had  served  their  seven  years  in  the 
yards  of  the  "Old  Country"  had  a  hand  in  the  work.  The 
first  step  in  the  construction,  which  occurred  to  the  builders, 
was  evidently  a  pair  of  rafters  A  A,  a  tie-beam  15,  and  a  king- 
post C,  to  support  the  centre  of  the  tie-beam  at  its  point  of 
splicing. 

The  tie-beam,  by  the  way,  is  cambered  about  two  and  a 
half  feet,  nearly  following  the  line  of  the  plastered  ceiling 

'  From  the  Anu'rican  Architect  for  October  7,  1876. 
2  Mate  15,  Part  IV. 


hung  to  it  below.  Had  the  tie-beam  and  ceiling  been  built 
level  in  the  first  instance,  they  would  evidently  have  later 
shared  the  misfortunes  of  the  principals,  and  have  now  been 
convex  instead  of  concave.  Having  proceeded  thus  far  in 
the  design  for  their  roof,  they  next  bethought  them  that  the 
rafters  A  A,  some  forty  feet  in  length,  without  intermediate 
support,  would  not  be  sufficiently  stiff  to  carry  the  roofing. 
Now,  instead  of  proceeding  to  erect  struts  from  the  foot  of 
the  king-post  C,  to  the  principals  A  A,  at  about  right  angles 
to  the  latter,  and  from  their  points  of  contact  to  drop  tension- 
pieces  to  the  tie-beam,  and  from  their  feet  to  erect  other 
struts  similar  to  the  first  —  thus  forming  a  perfectly  rigid 
frame,  and  obtaining  intermediate  points  of  support  for  each 
rafter  —  they  let  loose  the  incipient  Yankee  ingenuity  which 
the  east  winds  were  even  then  infusing  into  their  minds,  and, 
following  the  bent  of  a  shipbuilder's  mind,  took  another 
course. 

They  procured  stout  hewn  oak  beams,  D  D,  and  by  some 
means  best  known  to  themselves — either  by  the  coaxing  of 
steaming,  or  the  coercion  of  pulleys  and  tackle — formed 
of  them  arches ;  their  feet  stepped  into  the  tie-beam  near  the 
walls,  and  the  other  ends  keyed  in  position  by  wedges  passed 
through  a  mortise  in  the  king-post.  Now  they  had  con- 
structed, within  their  truss,  a  sort  of  bowstring  gi.'der,  upon 
which  they  founded  their  hopes  of  supporting  the  principals 
A  A  by  means  of  the  blocking,  or  struts,  E  E. 

Having  added  the  suspension  pieces  F  F,  they  rested  from 
their  labors,  and  rejoiced  in  their  work.  Their  future  fame, 
however,  was  not  secure ;  for  the  shrinkage  of  the  timber, 
probably  aided  and  abetted  by  some  "  old-fashioned  New 
England  snow-storms,"  of  which  we  hear  so  much,  caused  tiie 
roof  gradually  to  assume  the  form  indicated  by  the  dotted 
lines;  and  the  natural  remedy  against  further  misplacement 
in  that  direction  was  the  introduction  of  the  small  oak  struts 
G  G,  about  3"  x  5",  which  are  merely  notched  in  their  thick- 
ness (3")  from  one  side  of  king-post  and  arched  beams  ;  show- 
ing clearly  an  after-thought,  especially  as  they  do  not  coincide 
in  size  with  any  of  the  other  timbers,  and  are  not  tenoned  or 
pinned.  Then  the  tenons  of  some  of  the  suspension  pieces 
F  broke  off  short;  and  stirrup-irons  were  added  to  make 
them  secure. 


THE  ROOF  OF  THE   OLD   SOUTH  MEETING-HOUSE,   BOSTON. 


27 


The  old  roof  was  double-boarded,  and  so  remains  to-day  •, 
but  at  some  comparatively  recent  period,  to  correct  its  ex- 
tremely crooked  condition,  a  new  roofing  was  superposed 
upon  the  old,  blocked  up  so  as  to  make  the  surface  true,  and 
slated,  the  old  covering,  whether  shingles  or  slates,  being 
previously  removed. 

The  ironwork  is  all  very  primitive  in  design  and  make,  and 
speaks  eloquently  of  the  ''  village  blacksmith,"  when  his  forge 
was  perhaps  on  Park  Street. 

Such  is  something  of  the  yarn  the  old  roof  spins ;  and,  if 
the  civil  engineer  was  in  those  colonial  days  "  abroad,"  the 
schoolmaster  was  undoubtedly  in  his  company,  as  some  of 
the  appended  inscriptions  chalked  on  the  old  rafters  would 
indicate:  — 


Homer 
April  6,  1774. 

1762  February  9 
A  New  Rope  for  the  Bell. 

19  POUND  AND   A   HALF. 

A  NoTHER  Bell  Rope 

October  12,  1767. 

A  NoTHKR  Bell  Rope 

August  the  I,  1770. 

It   wad   20   POUND  AND  A   HALF. 

Thos.  Uruce,  Repeared  the  Sleating 
May  the  ist  1809. 

Edward  Russell  gilded 

THE  P'ane  Ball  &  Diols 

Feb.  1S28. 

William  Gibbons  Preston. 


-^^>ii?^i^^0V^:7^i^ 


In  the  summer  of  1899,  owing  to  further  deterioration  of 
the  roof-timbers  and  to  the  feeling  that  the  building  was  at  too 
much  risk  from  fire,  the  old  roof  was  replaced  with  one  more 
fireproof,  and  Mr.  Edward  Atkinson  has  procured  the  accom- 
panying view  of  the 
old  framing,  partly 
uncovered  and  still 
in  place. 

Such  an  operation 
as  this  upon  such  a 
building  excited  re- 
newed archjEologi- 
cal  interest  in  the 
building,  one  result 
of  which  was  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Abram 
English  Brown  to 
the  Boston  Tran- 
script, from  which 
we  extract  that  por- 
tion which  relates 
to  the  identifying  of 
the  till-now-un- 
known builder  of 
the  structure. 

"  The  well-known 
historian  Hamilton 
A.  Hill,  in  his  his- 
tory of  the  Old 
South  Church,  has 
omitted  but  little. 
Yet  this  one  fact  he 
has  failed  to  record, 
and  in  fact  it  has 
been  hidden  from 
all  until  a  recent 
date,  when  an  old 
diary  was  brought 
to  light  which  re- 
veals enough  to  set- 
tle the  question  so 
often  asked. 

"On  a  yellow 
page  of  this  diary 
is  the  following: 
'  1729,  Aprell  the 
ist.  I  with  others  layed  the  foundation  of  the  South  Brick 
meeting  houfe  and  finilhed  the  Brickwork  ye  8th  of  October, 
following.'  On  the  title-page  of  this  journal  is  read,  '  1722. 
Jofhua    Blanchard — His    Book.'     The    conclusion    is   that 


The  "  Old  South,"  Boslon,  May,  1891)  1  showing  original  roof  in  process  of  demolition. 


Joshua  Blanchard  laid  the  corner-stone  and  built  the  meet- 
ing-house. At  that  time  it  was  customary  for  builders  and 
men  of  prominence  in  an  enterprise  to  place  their  initials 
upon  corner-stones.     This  proved  the  key  of   the  solution. 

Mr.  Hill  says: 
'There  is  on  the  east 
side  of  the  corner- 
stone "L.  B.  1729," 
but  I  am  not  able  to 
explain  it.'  He  ac- 
counted for  all  else 
that  had  been  dis- 
covered on  other 
stones  of  the  house. 
A  closer  inspection 
of  the  unexplained 
inscription  devel- 
oped the  so-called 
letter  '  L  '  into  an 
'I,'  the  lip  of  the 
'L '  proving  to  be 
a  groove  or  defect 
in  the  stone,  wliich, 
when  covered  from 
sight,  leaves  a  per- 
fect letter  'I.'  As 
is  well  known,  I  and 
J  were  but  one 
character  in  Latin ; 
and  in  our  Colonial 
literature  were  con- 
t  i  n  u  a  1 1  y  inter- 
chanjied.  It  would 
thus  seem  that  it 
had  been  demon- 
strated in  two  ways 
tiiat  Joshua  ]')lanch- 
ard  built  these  his- 
toric walls. 

'  A  study  of  the 
records  of  the  town 
of  Boston  leads  us 
to  conclude  that 
the  same  man  was 
master-builder  of 
Fanouil  Hall.  It  is 
been    so,  for  Joshua 


natural  enough  that  it  should  have 
Blanchard  and  Peter  Faneuil  were  flourishing  at  the  one 
time.  It  appears  that  soon  after  Peter  Faneuil,  the  old 
Huguenot  merchant,  offered  the  gift  of  a  market,  the  selectmen 


28 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


held  a  meeting  of  importance.  '  Prefent  the  Hon.  John  Jef- 
fries, Elq..  Caleb  Lyman.  Kfq.,  Mr.  Clark,  Thomas  Hutchin- 
fon,  Efq.,  and  Mr.  Cooke.  Mr.  Jofluia  Blanchard  prefented 
a  plan  from  Peter  Faneuil  Efq.,  of  a  Houfe  for  a  market  to 
be  built  on  Dock  Square  (agreeable  to  his  Propofal  to  the 
town  at  their  meeting  on  Monday,  the  14th  of  July  laft,  and 
then  votes  thereon)  Defiring  the  Selectmen  would  lay  out 
the  Ground  in  order  to  begin  the  foundation.  The  Select- 
men accordingly  met,  went  on  the  place  in  order  to  view  the 
Same,  Mark'd  and  Ifak'd  out  a  Piece  of  ground  for  that  ufe, 
meafuring  in  length  from  the  lower  or  Eafterly  end,  pointing 
the  warehoufe  in  Merchants'  Row  one  hundred  feet,  and  in 
bredth  forty  feet,  which  leaves  a  palTageway  of  thirty  feet 
wide  between  the  Town's  Shops  and  the  market  houfe  to  be 
built.' 

"It  later  appears  that  when  Faneuil  Hall  was  completed 
Joshua  Blanchard,  acting  for  Peter  Faneuil,  presented  the 
keys  to  the  authorities  of  the  town.  The  walls  of  Faneuil 
Hall  bear  added  testimony  to  the  faithful  workmanship  of 
Joshua  Blanchard.  They  stood  uninjured  through  the  earth- 
quake of  1756,  and  also  through  the  fire  of  1761,  when  all  else 


of  the  noble  structure  was  reduced  to  ashes.  And,  in  fact, 
after  all  the  changes  that  have  taken  place  in  that  building 
for  the  century  and  a  half  of  its  existence.  One  of  the  side- 
walks stands  today  as  it  was  erected  by  Joshua  Blanchard, 
an  employee  of  Peter  Faneuil,  and  the  foundation-stones  of 
the  opposite  side  as  it  then  was  are  the  supports  for  some 
of  the  important  pillars  of  the  present  [1899]  re-building. 
The  records  of  Boston  further  show  that  Joshua  Blanchard 
was  a  popular  mason  of  his  time.  There  is  little  doubt  that 
he  was  the  builder  who  erected  the  Old  Brick  Meeting-House 
that  stood  near  the  old  State-House,  and  in  which  many 
famous  meetings  were  held  during  the  Revolutionary  Period. 
"The  work  of  the  Old  South  and  Faneuil  Hall  would  seem 
a  sufficient  monument  to  the  memory  of  this  builder  of  Pro- 
vincial Boston,  but  if  one  turns  into  Granary  Burying-Ground 
and  carefully  examines  the  street  corner  near  the  Tremont 
Building,  he  will  see  a  slab  on  the  green  sward  on  which  we 
may  read  "  No.  73.  Joshua  Blanchard.  A  Mason,"  and  can 
but  conclude  that  the  ashes  enclosed  in  that  vault  are  all  that 
remains  cf  the  faithful  master-mason  who  built  the  walls  of 
Old  South  Meeting-House  and  Faneuil  Hall." 


<L^ 


^p\S> 


Colonial  Work  in  the  Virginia  Borderland. 


AMONG  the  houses  of  which  I  intend  to  speak,  a 
number  will  be  found  to  date  back  to  the  time 
when  we  were  a  Colony  of  Great  Britain,  while 
others  have  been  erected  since  our  independence. 
The  term  Old  Colonial  is  applied  to  a  certain  style  of 
work,  a  free,  and  in  many  instances  a  refined,  treatment 
of  Classical  details  rather  than  to  any  fixed  period.  This 
work  was,  without  doubt,  infuenced  by  English  publications 
during  the  eighteenth  century,  by  those  of  James  Gibbs 
(1728)  and  others.  In  an  old  warehouse  which  has  been 
recently  torn  down  in  Alexandria,  Va ,  four  old  books  were 
found  and  presented  to  me,  filled  with  plates  of  doors, 
cornices,  mantels,  etc.,  one  by  Langley  (1739),  another  by 
Wm.  Pain  (1794);  of  the  others  the  titles  were  lost.  These 
English  works  show  clearly  whence  the  carpenters  and  build- 
ers of  the  day  received  their  inspiration.  The  date  of  the 
erection  of  Old  Colonial  buildings  ranges  from  early  in 
the  eighteenth  to  early  in  the  nineteenth  century,  and  from 
my  examination  of  books  and  actual  examples  I  should  say 
that  very  little  so-called  Colonial  work  was  done  later  than 
18 1 5.  Such  houses  are  rapidly  passing  away,  being  torn 
down  to  make  place  for  improvements,  or  destroyed  by  van- 
dalism, decay  and  fire.  Houses  of  this  character  are  found 
in  Virginia,  on  the  Ciiesapeake  Bay  and  its  tributaries,  the 
Potomac,  York  and  James  rivers,  and  the  country  lying 
between  them.  In  Maryland,  likewise,  the  wealthy  and 
fashionable  of  early  times  built  near  or  on  the  same  bay 
and  its  inlets. 

Examples,  as  I  propose  to  give  them,  are  not  arranged  in 
chronological  order,  but  are  illustrated  simply  as  I  have 
found  it  most  convenient  to  make  the  necessary  sketches, 
measurements,  researches  or  inquiries. 


The  house,  of  which  certain  details  are  shown  in  Plate  10, 
Part  I,  was  erected  by  a  Mr.  Cathcart  some  time  between 
1800  and  1810,  if  not  before.  The  only  facts  obtainable  are 
from  the  oldest  residents,  who  remember  it  from  their  earliest 
childhood,  one  or  two  of  them  being  about  eighty  years  of 
age.  After  passing  through  several  hands,  it  was  bought  by 
the  Episcopal  Theological  Seminary  in  1835.  Although 
there  is  nothing  of  historical  interest  attached  to  it,  the  archi- 
tectural features  are  peculiarly  refined  in  effect  and  very  elab- 
orate in  detail.  All  the  doors  and  windows  are  trimmed  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  door  illustrated  by  the  plate.  Every 
figure  in  low  relief  is  different  from  the  others,  and  in  this 
one  room  there  are  as  many  as  thirty  of  them,  each,  evi- 
dently, intended  to  have  a  pleasing  suggestion,  as  they 
represent  Abundance,  Sowing,  Reaping,  Pleasure,  Religion, 
etc.  The  enriched  mouldings  have  each  member  separately 
modelled,  and  this  is  the  same  with  the  friezes  around  the 
room  and  over  the  doors  and  windows,  each  leaf  and  tendril 
being  different,  as  if  the  plastic  material  of  which  they  are 
made  were  modelled  in  place.  The  building  is  now  the 
residence  of  Mr.  L.  M.  Blackford,  principal  of  the  Episcopal 
High  School,  and  is  situated  about  twelve  miles  from  Wash- 
ington and  three  from  the  Potomac  River. 


%.^ 


THE    OCTAGON     HOUSE,    WASHINGTON,    D.    C. 
[D.-ite,  iSoo.l 

Bishop  Mead,  in  his  "  Old  Churches,  Alinisters  and  Families 
of  Virginia"  tells  us  that  William  Tayloe  emigrated  from 
London  to  Virginia  in  1650.  John  Tayloe,  his  son,  who  was 
a  member  of  the   House  of  Burgesses,  founded  the  noted 


THE  OCTAGON  HOUSE,    WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 


29 


estate  of  Mount  Airy,  Virginia.  He  had  twelve  children,  one 
of  whom,  Col.  John  Tayloe,  built  the  old  Octagon  House. 
The  Tayloes  intermarried  with  the  Corbins,  the  Lees,  the 
Washingtons,  the  Carters,  the  Pages,  and  nearly  every  other 
prominent  family  of  Virginia.  The  mother  ot  Col.  John 
Tayloe,  of  the  Octagon,  was  a  daughter  of  Governor  Plater, 
of  Maryland,  and  his  wife  was  Anne,  daughter  of  Benjamin 
Ogle,  Governor  of  Maryland. 

For  those  days,  Col.  John  Tayloe  (commissioned  by 
Washington  in  the  Revolution)  was  a  very  wealthy  man, 
having  at  the  age  of  twenty  an  income  of  nearly  sixty  thou- 
sand dollars  a  year,  and  when  the  Octagon  was  built  he  had 
an  income  of  seventy-five  thousand  a  year.  His  eldest 
son,  John,  was  in  the  Navy,  and  was  distinguished  in  the 
battles  of  the  "  Constitution"  with  the  "  Gutrriere,"  and  with 
the  "  Cyane"  and  the  ''Lmant." 

The  memoirs  of  Benjamin  Ogle  Tayloe  state  that  Colonel 
Tayloe  was  an  intimate  friend  of  General  Washington,  and  it 
was  on  the  advice  of  the  General  that  the  Octagon  was  built 
in  Washington  City,  Colonel  Tayloe  having  previously  de- 
termined to  build  his  winter  residence  in  Philadelphia. 

The  house  was  commenced  in  1798  and  was  completed  in 
1800.  During  the  process  of  erection.  General  Washington 
visited  this  building,  as  he  took  a  lively  interest  in  it,  being 
the  home  of  his  friend  and  one  of  the  most  superior  resi- 
dences in  the  country  at  the  time.  After  the  war  of  1812, 
the  British  having  burned  the  White  House,  James  Madison 
occupied  the  Octagon  for  some  time  and  during  his  occu- 
pancy the  Treaty  of  Ghent  between  the  United  States  and 
Great  Britain  was  signed  by  him  in  February,  1815,  in  the 
circular  room  over  the  vestibule,  shown  on  the  plan  in  Plate 
17,  Part  III. 

At  this  period  Colonel  Tayloe  was  distinguished  for  the 
unrivalled  splendor  of  his  household  and  equipages,  and  his 
establishment  was  renowned  throughout  the  country  for  its 
entertainments,  which  were  given  in  a  most  generous  man 
ner  to  all  persons  of  distinction  who  visited  Washington  in 
those  days,  both  citizens  and  foreigners.  In  this  list  would 
be  included  such  names  as  Jefferson  (Washington  had  passed 
away  before  its  completion) ,  Madison,  Monroe,  J.  Q.  Adams, 
Decatur,  Porter,  Webster,  Clay,  Calhoun,  Randolph,  Lafay- 
ette, Steuben  and  Sir  Edward  Thornton,  British  Minister 
and  father  of  the  recent  British  Minister,  and  many  others  of 
less  distinction  than  the  ones  named.  Colonel  Tayloe  died 
in  1828  and  his  death  to  a  certain  e.xtent  terminated  the 
splendid  hospitalities  of  the  Octagon,  which  had  covered  a 
period  of  nearly  thirty  years. 

This  house  is  well  built  of  brick,  trimmed  with  Aquia  Creek 
sandstone.  The  lot  is  triangular  in  form  and  still  partly 
fenced  in  by  a  high  brick  wall.  The  kitchen,  stable  and  out- 
houses are  built  of  brick,  for  the  accommodation  of  servants 
and  horses,  Colonel  Tayloe  being  a  noted  turfman  and  keep- 
ing many  fine  running  horses.  The  building  and  walls  con- 
form exactly  to  the  street  lines,  showing  that  the  streets  were 
accurately  laid  out  even  at  that  early  day.  The  interior  is 
elaborately  finished,  the  doors  and  shutters  being  of  mahog- 
any and  all  still  in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation.  All  the 
work  in  the  circular  vestibule  coincides  with  the  circumfer- 
ence of  the  tower,  the  doors,  sashes  and  glass  being  made  on 
the  circle,  and  all  are  still  in  working  order.  The  parlor 
mantel,  illustrated  on  Plate  12,  Part  III,  is  made  of  a  fine 
cement  composition  and  is  painted  white.  The  remains  of 
gold-leaf  show  on  some  of  the  relieved  portions.  The  figures 
are  excellent,  evidently  having  been  modelled  by  some  good 
artist.  The  mantel  in  the  bedroom  is  of  wood  ;  the  orna- 
mentation being  putty  stucco.  From  the  work  of  Bielefeld  on 
papier-mache',  I  learn  that  the  different  materials  for  making 


the  plastic  ornaments  at  that  date  were  putty,  commonly  used 
on  mantels  or  flat  work,  where  they  were  not  carved  in  the 
wood  (this  is  the  materia!  with  which  most  of  our  Colonial 
work  is  ornamented),  papier-mache,  carton-pierre,  cement  and 
plaster.  Carton-pierre  was  a  composition  of  whiting,  oil  and 
paper,  and  was  hard  and  easily  polished,  and  I  am  inclined 
to  the  opinion  that  the  parlor  and  dining-room  manteP  in 
the  Tayloe  House  is  of  this  material.  The  oldest  cabinet- 
makers, and  I  have  interviewed  many  of  them  in  this  section 
of  the  country,  are  entirely  ignorant  as  to  the  method  or 
composition  of  such  ornaments,  and  books,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  one  men- 
tioned above,  seems 
to  have  ignored  the 
subject.  Leading 
into  the  back  hall 
^^^  and  dining-room  are 
two  secret  doors,  in 
which  the  wash- 
boards, chair-boards, 
etc.,  run  across  the  door,  being  ingeniously  cut  some  distance 
from  the  actual  door,  no  keyholes,  hinges  or  openings  show- 
ing on  the  blind  side.  The  knobs  and  shutter-buttons  are  of 
brass.  The  roof  has  three  rather  peculiar  trusses  of  the 
shape  shown  in  the  diagram,  they  and  all  timbers  visible  be- 
ing hewn.  Two  old  cast-iron  wood-stoves  still  stand  in  the 
niches  prepared  for  them  in  the  vestibule. 
Dr.  William  Thornton  was  the  architect. 


■ ^30- 

Truss  in  Roof  of  Octagon. 


r--.^^ 


THE    BRADDOCK    HOUSE,    ALEXANDRIA,    VA. 
[Date,  .752-1S25.] 

This  building  is  interesting,  as  different  portions  of  ir 
were  built  at  three  distinct  dates,  1752,  1815,  1852.  The 
first  built  was  the  mansion  of  John  Carlyle,  who  was  one  of 
the  board  of  trustees  in  the  incorporation  of  Alexandria, 
1749.  A  description  in  the  Lodge  of  Washington  tells  us 
that:  "The  surroundings  of  this  structure  have  greatly 
changed  since  1752.  Then,  a  beautiful  lawn  extended  sev- 
enty-five feet  to  Fairfax  Street  on  its  west  front,  and  on 
the  east  side  the  grounds  reached  to  the  Potomac  River, 
a  distance  of  about  two  hundred  yards,  and  across  what 
are  now  Lee  and  Union  Streets.  Now,  1875  [same  1887] 
the  old  house  is  hidden  from  view,  except  on  the  east 
side,  by  the  Mansion  House  Hotel,"  now  called  the  Brad- 
dock  House.  The  house  has  undergone  many  changes. 
The  old  staircase  has  been  remodelled,  all  the  rooms  on  the 
first  and  second  stories,  except  what  is  called  the  Council- 
room,  have  been  altered.  All  the  doors  and  sashes  have 
been  replaced  by  new  ones,  except  in  the  attic. 

In  what  is  called  the  Council-room  the  following  bit  of 
history  transpired:  "The  British  Government,  having  de- 
termined to  drive  out  the  French  and  to  destroy  the  power 
of  the  Indians,  sent  over  in  two  ships  of  war  under  Admiral 
Keppel,  who  commanded  the  Meet,  two  crack  regiments  of 
the  line  [the  44th  and  48th  foot],  the  44th  commanded  by 
Sir  Peter  Ilalket,  the  48th  by  Colonel  Dunbar. 

"  These  ships  arrived  at  Alexandria  late  in  the  month  of 
February,  1755,  while  the  troops  remained  in  encampment 
until  late  in  April,  and  were  joined  by  troops  from  the 
various  Colonies,  including  two  companies  of  rangers  from 
Alexandria  and  its  neighborhood.  On  the  14th  of  April, 
General  liraddock,  with  Admiral  Keppel,  held  a  council 
with  the  executive  of  Virginia,  Governor  Dinwiddle ;  Mary- 
land sent  Governor  Sharpe  ;    Massachusetts  sent  Governor 

'  The  dates  upon  these  mantels  show  that  whatever  may  have  been 
the  date  of  the  building  they  at  least  were  made  in  London  in  I7QQ.— 
Ed. 


30 


THE    GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Shirley;  New  York  sent  Governor  De  Lancey  ;  and  Pennsyl- 
vania sent  Governor  Morris.  Washington  was  summoned 
from  Mount  Vernon,  and  was  presented  to  the  council  with 
great  formality.  By  his  dignified  deportment  and  great  good 
sense,  he  made  a  fine  impression,  Governor  Shirley  character- 
izing him  as  a  model  gentleman  and  statesman." 

The  Council-room,  with  the  exception  of  doors  and  sashes, 
is  apparently  intact.  The  walls  are  all  panelled,  and  all  the 
ornamental  work  is  carved  in  wood.  In  some  places  where 
the  paint  has  been  rubbed  off  the  wood  is  shown  to  be  hard 
southern  pine.  All  the  panels  e.xcept  one  are  perfect,  — 
neither  shrunken  nor  split.  I  have  illustrated  the  panelling, 
cornice,  doorway,  mantel,  etc.,  from  the  Council-room.' 

Braddock  was  a  guest  of  John  Carlyle  before  his  disastrous 
failure  and  death  in  the  West.  Mr.  William  Herbert,  who 
married  Carlyle's  daughter  between  1800  and  181 5,  built  a 
banking-house  on  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Carlyle  yard 
for  the  Alexandria  Bank,  of  which  he  was  president  from 
1798  to  1818,  when  he  died.  The  funds  of  the  bank  were 
deposited  in  the  vaults  of  the  Carlyle  mansion  during  its 
erection.     Tlie  vaults  still  remain. 

I  have  also  illustrated  a  mantel  and  doorway  from  this 
bank. 

In  1852  the  structure  was  completed  as  it  now  stands,  by 
connecting  the  old  buildings  and  cutting  the  Carlyle  man- 
sion off  from  the  street,  and  adding  two  or  three  stories  to 
the  bank,  and  used  as  a  hotel  under  the  name  of  Green's 
Mansion  House.  The  latter  part  of  the  building  has  nothing 
of  interest  attaching  to  it. 

During  the  late  Civil  War  the  building  was  occupied  by 
the  United  States  Government  as  a  hospital,  and  is  now  used 
as  a  hotel  under  the  name  of  the  Braddock  House. 


■iss^ 


f 


\ 


GADSHV'S    TAVERN,    ALEXANDRIA,    VA. 
[Date,  J 793.] 

In  tliis  building  are  found  many  items  of  inter- 
est, both  from  an  architectural  and  a  historical 
standpoint.  It  was  erected  in  1793,  when  Alex- 
andria was  a  flourishing  town,  probably  one  of 
the  most  prosperous  in  the  country.  It  was  built 
by  John  Wise,  a  noted  tavern-keeper  in  those 
days.  The  announcement  of  the  opening  of  this 
hotel  may  still  be  seen  in  a  Virginia  Gazette  oi 
1793."  Here  the  most  prominent  people  of  the 
day  were  feasted  and  feted.  In  1796  a  banquet 
was  given  there  by  the  Alexandria  Washington 
Lodge  of  Masons.  It  was  also  a  favorite  place 
for  assemblies,  or  balls,  as  we  should  call  them 
now.  A  book  called  "  Tlie  Lodge  of  Washington  " 
tells  us  that  at  a  ball  given  at  the  Gadsby  Tavern 
ary,  i  798,  Washington  parti- 
A  i.esser  Light  cipated,  by  his  presence,  in  celebrating  his  own 

of  Washingioii    ,  .      .     ,  .  .  ^     ,  .    . 

Loctee:  used  at  birthday.     A  portion  of  the  nnisician  s  gallery  in 

the  I'uneral  of    ,,  .      ,      ,,  .        ,  •       tm  -.^ 

George  Wash-  Ihis  ball-room  IS  shown  111  Plate  9,  Part  I.     This 
ingion.  gallery  is  not  supported  by  posts  from  the  floor, 

where  they  would  interfere  with  the  dancers,  but  is  bung  from 
the  ceiling. 

Alexandria  was  probably  the  first  place  to  celebrate 
Washington's  birthday.  The  ceremonies  usually  consisted 
of  a  parade  by  the  military,  and  a  birthnight  ball.  Assem- 
blies were  given  regularly  by  the  Washington  Society  of 
Alexandria,  "attended  by  the  beauty  and  fashion  of  the 
J  Plate  18,  i'art  III.  ' 


^  dlStick.  ^ '    on  t'lc  2 2d  of  Febru 


Managers. 


town."     The  following  autograph  letter  is  still  preserved  in 
the  Lodge  rooms: 

Mount  Vkrnon,  12  Nov.,  1799. 

Gentlemen: 

Mrs.  Wartiington  and  I  have  been  honored  with  your 
polite  invitation  to  the  affemblies  in  Alexandria  this  winter, 
thank  you  for  this  mark  of  your  attention.  But  alas!  our 
dancing  days  are  no  more.  We  with,  however,  all  thofe 
who  relifh  fo  agreeable  and  innocent  an  amufement  all  the 
pleafure  the  feafon  will  afford  tiiem. 

Your  moft  obedient  and  obliged  humble  fervant. 

Go.  Washington. 
Geo.  Deneale         ] 
William  Newton   | 
Robert  Young 
Chas.  Alexander 
James    H.   Hooe     j 

The  rooms  where  the  Alexandria  Assemblies  held  their 
meetings  are  now  a  part  of  what  is  known  as  the  City  Hotel, 
and  they  were  built  some  years  before  the  portion  known  as 
Gadsby's  Tavern,  probably  about  1780.  Tiie  interior  door- 
way shown  on  the  plate  is  taken  from  this  portion  of  the 
building. 

I  quote  the  following  bit  of  history  in  connection  with  this 
hotel  from  the  "Recollections  of  Washington"  by  G.  W.  P. 
Custis: 

"  It  was  in  November  of  the  last  days,  that  the  General 
visited  Alexandria  upon  business  and  dined  with  a  few 
friends  at  the  City  Hotel.  Gadsby,  the  most  accomplished  of 
hosts,  requested  the  General's  orders  for  dinner,  promising 
that  there  was  a  good  store  of  canvas-back  ducks  in  the 
larder.  'Very  good.  Sir,'  replied  the  chief,  'give  us  some  of 
them  with  a  chafing-dish,  some  hominy,  and  a  bottle  of  good 
madeira,  and  we  shall  not  complain.' 

"No  sooner  was  it  known  in  town  that  the  General  would 
stay  to  dinner  than 
the  cry  was  for  the 
parade  of  a  new  com- 
pany called  the  In- 
dependent Blues, 
commanded  by  Capt. 
Piercy,  an  officer  of 
the  Revolution.  The 
merchant  closed  his 
books,  the  mechanic 
laid  by  his  tools,  the 
drum  and  fife  went 
merrily  round,  and  in 
the  least  possible  time 
the  Blues  had  fallen 
into  their  ranks  and 
were  in  full  march  for 
headquarters. 

"  Meanwhile  the 
General  had  dined 
and  given  his  only 
toast,  '  All  our 
friends,'  and  finished 
his  last  glass  of  wine, 
when  an  officer  of  the 
Blues  was  introduced  who  requested,  in  the  name  of  Capt. 
Piercy,  that  the  Commander-in-chief  would  do  the  Blues  the 


Chair  in  Washington  Lodge,  Alexandria,  Va.,  used  by 
Ceo.  W.ishingion  when  Worthy  Master,  17S8-1789. 


2  Advertisement  from  the  Virginia  Gazette  and  Commercial  AJvertiser. 
"  City  Tavern. 
"  Sign  of  the  Bunch  of  Grapes. 

"Tlie  Subscriber  informs  his  customers  *  *  *  that  he  has  removed 
*  *  *  to  his  new  and  elegant  three  story  brick  house,  *  *  *  which  was 
built  for  a  tavern  and  has  twenty  commodious  and  well-furnished  rooms 
in  it.  where  he  has  laid  in  a  large  stock  of  good  old  liquors  and  hopes  he 
will  be  able  to  give  satisfaction  to  all  who  will  favor  him  with  their  cus- 
tom- John  Wise. 

"Alexandria,  Va.,  February  6,  1793." 


GADSBY'S    TAVERN,   ALEXANDRIA,    VA. 


31 


honor  to  witness  a  parade  of  the  corps.  The  General  con- 
sented and  repaired  to  the  door  of  the  hotel  looking  toward 
the  public  square,  accompanied  by  Colonel  Fitzgerald,  Dr. 
Craik,  and  Mr.  Herbert,  and  several  other  gentlemen.  [This 
doorway  was  removed  a  few  years  ago  from  its  original  posi- 
tion and  put  up  at  a  back  entrance.  See  plate.]  The  troop 
went  through  many  evolutions  with  great  spirit  and  con- 
cluded by  firing  several  volleys.  When  the  parade  was 
ended  the  General  ordered  the  author  of  these  recollections 
to  go  to  Captain  Piercy  and  ex- 
press to  him  the  graiitication  which 
he,  the  General,  experienced,  in  the 
very  correct  and  soldierly  evolu- 
tions, marchings,  and  firings  of  the 
Independent  Blues.  Such  com- 
,  ,    „    .,  _,       mendation  from   such   a  source,  it 

A  Key  of  the  Bastile  presented  to  ' 

Washington  Lodge  by  Lafayette,   may  well  be  Supposed,  was  received 

1825,  weighed  5  lbs.  -;  11    J    r    1  ^  1       .1 

With  no  small  delight  by  the  young 
soldiers,  who  marched  off  in  fine  spirits,  and  were  soon  after- 
wards dismissed.  This  was  the  last  military  order  issued  in 
person  by  the  father  of  his  country."  The  ne.vt  historical 
event  of  interest  connected  with  this  house  was  the  banquet 
to  Lafayette  by  the  citizens  of  Alexandria  on  his  visit  to 
this  country  in  October,  1824.  On  his  visit  he  brought  his 
son,  Geo.  Washington  Lafayette,  with  him.     He  was  met  by 


a  long  procession  of  citizens,  old  soldiers  carrying  old  artil- 
lery and  relics  of  Washington  and  the  Revolution,  all  fully 
described  in  xk\e.  Alexandria  Gazette  of  Oct.  ig,  1824.  Robert 
E.  Lee,  then  a  boy,  was  a  inarshal  in  this  procession.  The 
The  hotel's  name  was  changed  for  the  third  time,  at  this  date 
being  called  Claggett's  Tavern,  from  its  host.  "About  5 
o'clock  the  General  [Lafayette]  attended  the  public  dinner  at 
Claggett's  Tavern,  at  which  were  present  many  distinguished 
gentlemen,  among  others  the  Hon.  John  Quincy  Adams,  Sec- 
retary of  State,  Commodores  Rodgers  and  I^orter,  General 
Macomb,  Colonels  Peyton  and  Harvie  of  the  Yorktown  Com- 
mittee, and  several  others."  Ainong  thirty  toasts  the  first 
was  "  The  memory  of  our  late  illustrious  neighbor  and  fellow- 
citizen,  Geo.  Washington."  On  the  2 ist  of  February,  1825, 
the  Lodge  of  Washington  gave  Lafayette  a  Masonic  banquet 
at  this  hotel.  The  members  present,  the  songs  they  sanc', 
the  toasts  they  drank,  the  speeches  they  made,  are  all  re- 
corded in  the  Lodge  of  Washington.  Lafayette's  toast  was, 
"Greece,  let  us  help  each  other." 

To  about  1877  this  building  was  used  as  a  hotel,  under  the 
name  of  the  City  Hotel.  Later  it  was  used  as  an  auction- 
house  and  storage-warehouse.  I  am  indebted  to  the  records 
of  Alexandria  Washington  Lodge  No.  22,  for  many  of  the 
facts  mentioned  as  well  as  the  privilege  of  making  the 
sketches  of  relics  of  Washington.  Glenn  Brown. 


The  Seventh-Day  Baptist  Church  at  Newport,  R.  I. 


THIS  venerable  edifice,  for  many  years  the  place  of 
worship  of  the  Seventh-Day  Baptist  Society  in 
Newport,  some  years  ago  passed  by  purchase  into 
the  hands  of  the  Newport  Historical  Society,  and 
is  now  occupied  by  that  body  as  its  cabinet  and  meeting- 
room.  After  long  disuse,  the  building  was  re-opened  to  tiie 
public,  with  appropriate  ceremonies,  on  the  evening  of  No- 
vember 10,  1884. 

The  church,  when  purchased  by  the  Historical  Society 
was  found  to  be  rapidly  falling  to  decay,  through  long  neg- 
lect and  the  action  of  the  elements.  A  most  thorough  res- 
toration became  necessary,  in  the  course  of  which  portions 
of  the  work  were  entirely  replaced  with  new,  the  character 
and  ancient  detail  being  scrupulously  adhered  to. 

The  Seventh-Day  Baptist  meeting-house,  or  churcii,  as  it 
is  more  generally  styled,  has  a  history  of  over  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years,  having  been  erected  in  1729.  It  demands 
more  than  a  passing  notice  from  the  student  of  Colonial 
architecture  for  its  venerable  and  sacred  associations.  Its 
structural  and  decorative  features  are  thoroughly  in  unison 
with  the  best  building  practice  of  the  second  period  of 
Colonial  architecture,  and  are  siiown  in  detail  on  Plate  20, 
Part  I  and  the  accompanying  sketches  made  in  the  ciiurch 
itself,  previous  to  its  restoration. 

In  the  year  1678,  Samuel  Hubbard,  one  of  the  seven 
founders  of  the  Sabbatarian  Society  in  Newport,  wrote  to  a 
friend  in  Jamaica,  saying,  "Our  numbers  here  are  twenty;  at 
Westerly,  seven  ;  and  at  New  London,  ten."  From  the 
diary  of  the  same  Samuel  Hubbard  we  learn  that  the  churcli 
was  organized  in   1671.     The  Society  always  claimed  to  be 


the  oldest  Sabbatarian  and  the  fifth  Baptist  church  in  America. 
The  first  pastor  was  William  Hiscox,  who  died  May  24,  1704, 
in  the  sixty-sixth  year  of  his  age.  Joseph  Maxon  was  chosen 
to  fill  the  office  of  travelling  ])reacher  for  Westerly  in  Septem- 
ber, 1732,  and  in  October  of  the  same  year  he  was  made 
pastor  of  both  the  Newport  and  Westerly  churches.  The- 
Newport  church,  previous  to  the  Revolution,  maintained  a 
strong  and  stirring  organization:  among  its  members  were 
men  reputable  for  their  talents,  learning  and  ability,  and 
holding  iionored  stations  in  public  affairs.  The  war  scat- 
tered the  congregation,  and  the  church  never  recovered  its 
former  prestige.  Henry  Burdick  wa'-,  ordained  pastor,  De- 
cember 10,  1807.  In  1808  the  membership  was  reduced  to 
ninety,  and  in  1809  to  eighty-seven.  The  last  pastor  was 
Lucius  Crandall.  The  records  of  the  church  terminate  in 
1839,  and  the  last  sacred  services  were  held  in  that  year. 
The  sole  surviving  member  of  the  Society  living  when  the 
church  passed  out  of  the  hands  of  the  Sabbatarian  trustees 
was  Mrs.  Mary  Green  Alger,  who  died  on  the  nth  of  Octo 
ber,  1884,  at  the  age  of  ninet}'-tliree  years,  nine  months  and 
nine  days,  just  one  month  previous  to  the  dedication  by  the 
Historical  Society.  The  church  in  the  town  of  Westerly 
grew  and  prospered,  and  is  still  in  a  flourishing  condition. 
Under  the  lilieral  Chaiter  and  Constitution  of  Rhode  Island, 
the  towns  of  Westerly  and  Hopkinton  have  always  recognized 
as  holy  the  seventh  instead  of  the  first  day  of  the  week.  It 
is  a  curious  sensation  to  walk  through  the  streets  of  those 
towns  on  a  Sunday  morning  and  hear  the  buzz  of  machinery 
and  the  various  sounds  of  a  striving  and  busy  community. 
In   1706  the  Sabbatarian  Society  purchased,  in  the  then 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


town  of  Newport,  a  lot  of  land,  situated  at  the  junction  of 
what  are  now  known  as  Spring  and  Barney  Streets,  from 
Jonathan    Barney,   for   "  twenty-one   pounds,   six   shillings, 

and  eight  pence,  cur- 
rent passable  money 
at  eight  shillings  per 
ounce  silver."  The  deed 
was  taken  in  the  name 
of  Arnold  Collins,  gold- 
smith, a  member  of  the 
Society  and  the  father  of 
Henry  Collins,  a  distin- 
guished citizen  who  took 
an  active  part  in  the  af- 
fairs of  the  town  and 
colony,  and  was  one  of 
the  founders  of  the  Red- 
wood Library,  giving  the 
land  on  which  that  build- 
ing stands.  Two  smaller  portions  of  land  were  afterwards 
added  to  the  church  lot. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  Society  held  November  9,  1729,  it  was 
voted  "that  a  meeting-house  be  built,  thirty-six  feet  in  length 
and  twenty-six  feet  in  breadth,  on  part  of  that  land  whereon 
the  present  meeting-house  now  stands  ;  and  voted  at  the 
same  time  that  Jonathan  Weeden  and  Henry  Collins  be 
appointed  a  committee  to  undertake  the  whole  affair  of  erect- 
ing said  house,  and  to  raise  money  by  subscription.  Voted 
at  the  same  lime  that  the  two  afore-mentioned  brethren  do 
their  endeavors  to  make  sale  of  their  present  meeting-house 
to  the  best  advantage  they  can,  and  dispose  of  tiie  money 
towards  the  better  furnishing  of  the  house  they  are  to  erect." 
The  character  of  the  first  meeiing-iiouse  is  unknown,  but 
it  must  have  been  a  very  simple  affair.  The  house  of  1729 
is  the  subject  of  this  sketch.  Like  most  of  the  Colonial 
buildings  which  I  have  measured,  the  dimensions  overrun 
the  established  plan  and  instructions.  The  church  measured 
thirty-seven  feet  front  and  twenty-seven  feet  deep,  and  all  its 
parts  and  details  are  laid  out  with  scrupulous  exactitude  with 
reference  to  symmetry  and  proportion. 

The  exterior  of  the  church  is  of  the  most  severe  and  barn- 
like character ;  with  two  rows  of  windows  having  plank 
frames,  and  with  a  shallow  cornice,  made  up  of  a  gutter  and 
bed-mould,  the  latter  mitreing  around  the  heads  of  gallery 
window-frames.  The  entrance  door  has  no  features  worthy 
of  notice,  and  the  steps  are  of  Connecticut  brown-stone,  the 
usual  material  used  for  that  purpose  in  Colonial  work. 

The  roof  is  a  simple  double  pitch,  the  frame  being  of  oak 
timber  and  shown  on  the  sectional  drawing.  The  tie-beams, 
hewn  into  curves,  are  curious  instances  of  framing.  All 
furring-down  for  the  ceiling  is  dispensed  with,  and  the  lath- 
ing is  nailed  directly  on  the  4"  x  4"  furrings,  which  are 
tenoned  between  the  tie-beams. 

All  the  timbers,  with  the  exception  of  the  tie-beams,  are 
squared.  The  framing  at  the  junction  of  the  principals  and 
tie-beams  was  badly  conceived,  and  the  hidden  tenons  rotted 
off,  permitting  the  building  to  spread  badly.  In  restoration 
it  became  necessary  to  insert  two  tension-rods  and  draw  in 
the  walls  to  their  original  vertical  position.  These  rods  run 
across  the  building  at  the  line  of  the  cornice. 

'J'he  large  drawings  indicate  the  conscientious  attention  to 
detail  which  the  Colonial  mechanics  were  wont  to  bestow 
upon  their  works.  The  greater  part  of  the  inside  finish  is 
made  of  red  cedar,  jjainted  white.  All  tiie  members  were 
wrought  by  hand,  and  the  amount  of  curved  and  moulded 
work,  including  mitres,  is  extreme. 

While  engaged  in  inaking  the  measurements  preparatory 


to  the  restoration,  I  was  struck  by  a  coincidence  which 
gradually  developed  as  the  work  progressed.  It  has  always 
been  a  mystery,  unsolved  by  investigation,  as  to  who  designed 
Trinity  Church  in  Newport.  It  was  erected  in  the  years 
1724-25,  through  the  instrumentality  of  the  English  Society 
for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  Foreign  Parts.  The 
plans  and  instructions  must  have  come  from  England,  as  it 
was  not  until  some  years  later  that  architects  of  talent,  like 
Peter  Harrison,  emigrated  to  the  colonies.  It  is  a  free  copy 
of  Wren's  church  of  St.  James,  Piccadilly,  having  the  general 
character  of  that  edifice,  with,  however,  some  strongly- 
marked  differences.  Instead  of  the  row  of  Corinthian 
columns  along  the  gallery,  and  supporting  the  vaulted  ceil- 
ing, it  has  square  and  fluted  piers,  and  the  lower  piers  are 
much  smaller,  although  panelled  in  the  same  way  as  those  at 
St.  James's.  The  ceiling  is  also  difi'erent,  substituting  for  a 
simple  barrel-vault  an  elliptical  andgroined  system  of  vaulting. 

Whoever  may  have  been  its  architect,  the  men  who  built 
Trinity  church,  in  1724-25,  also  built  the  Sabbatarian 
church,  in  1729.  It  is  not  probable  that  an  architect  was 
employed  for  the  latter  edifice,  but  the  section  of  every 
moulding  and  detail  is  the  same  in  both  structures,  indicating 
the  use  of  one  set  of  hollow  and  round  planes  by  the  same 
hands.  The  designs  of  the  galleries,  piers  and  panelling  are 
also  the  same.  One  feature  in  the  Sabbatarian  Church  is, 
however,  unique  ;  /.  e.,  the  pulpit  stairs.  These  stairs,  al- 
though partaking  of  all  the  characteristic  features  of  the  best 
domestic  work  of  the  day,  are  richer  in  detail  and  are  more 
delicately  wrought  than  in  any  other  staircase  of  the  time 
with  which  I  am  familiar.  The  staircase  in  Trinity  Church 
is  of  a  much  simpler  design,  and  the  one  in  the  Christopher 
G.  Champlin  house,  the  best  domestic  example  in  Newport, 
sliows  much  less  elaboration. 

The  panelling  under  the  sounding-board  of  the  Sabbatarian 
Church  is  the  same  as  that  on  the  ceiling  over  the  warden's 
pew  in  Trinity  Church,  and  the  small  pedestal  on  the  sound- 
ing-board was  surmounted  by  an  English  crown,  probably  of 
the  same  character  as  the  one  still  remaining  on  the  organ 
of  old  Trinity. 

The  tablets  on  the  wall  bac'ic  of  the  pulpit,  and  shown  on 
drawing,  were  presented  to  the  Society  by  Deacon  John  Tan- 
ner, in  1 773.  The  lettering  is  still  clear  and  bright,  with  scrolls 
in  the  arched  tops.  Below  the  Decalogue  appears  the  follow- 
ing text  from  Romans  III,  xxi :  "Do  we  then  make  void  the 
law  through  faith?     God  forbid;  yea,  we  establish  the  law." 

There  is  a  legend  that  when  the  English  army  took  oosses- 


NoTE.  —  The  tie-beams  are  of  rough-hewn  timber,  curved  by  the  axe, 
scarfed  in  centre.  The  iron  straps  are  roughly  forged  and  the  boltswhich 
secure  them  to  the  king-post  are  simply  driven  through,  the  ends  turned 
over  and  keyed.  The  timber  is  all  of  oak.  The  furrings  for  ceiling  are 
about  4"  X  4''  and  tenoned  into  the  tie-beams  at  each  end.  The  lathing  is 
dir  -ctly  on  the  furrings.  Eacli  principal  runs  down  to  a  feather  end,  but 
is  tenoned  into  the  tie  beam  and  pinned.  The  building  spread  badly,  and 
in  its  restoration  iron  tension-rods  were  put  in  between  the  plates. 

sion  of  Newport,  in  1777,  and  desecrated  all  the  places  of 
worship,  except  Old  Trinity  and  the  Sabbatarian  Church,  by 
using  them  for  riding-schools  and  hospitals,  the  latter  edifice 


SEVENTH-DAY  BAPTIST  CHURCH,   NEWPORT,   R.   I. 


33 


was  saved  and  guarded  through  respect  for  the  Decalogue 
and  the  royal  crown  found  within  its  walls. 

The  clock,  forming  the  initial  cut  of  this  article,  hangs  on 
the  face  of  the  gallery,  between  the  two  central  piers,  facing 
the  pulpit.  It  was  made  by  William  Claggett,  a  celebrated 
horologist  of  his  day  in  Newport.  The  clock  in  the  tower  of 
Trinity  Church  was  also  made  by  him,  and  many  of  the  tall 
clocks,  with  sun,  moon,  stars  and  signs  of  the  zodiac,  fre- 


quently found  in  the  possession  of  old  families,  bear  his 
name.  The  church  clock  has  been  repaired  and  is  again 
marking  the  hours,  not  of  long  and  prosy  sermons  dealing 
with  colonial  brimstone,  which  seems  to  have  been  a  very 
prominent  article  in  the  faith  of  our  ancestors,  but  striking 
hour  after  hour  the  onward  march  of  Newport's  history, 
down  from  the  eventful  and  romantic  past,  into  the  unknown 
future.  Geo.  C.  Mason,  Jr. 


Six  Hours  in  Salem,  Massachusetts. 


On  Gallows  Hill. 

HE  materials  for  the  accompanying  drawings 
and  sketches,  and  the  following  facts,  rela- 
tive and  irrelevant  thereto,  were  collected 
by  the  present  writer  and  a  friend  in  a  six- 
hour-long  visit  to  Salem,  supplemented  by  a  short  preliminary 
cramming  at  the  Boston  Library  on  the  evening  previous 
thereto.  In  so  short  a  time,  and  with  imperfect  facilities 
(our  only  instruments  were  note-books,  rules  and  pencils,  and 
a  kodak  camera),  it  is  perhaps  presumptuous  to  suppose  that 
much  of  fresh  interest  or  of  permanent  value  could  be  gath- 
ered in  a  field  already  so  well  harvested  by  such  men  as 
Arthur  Little,  Frank  Wallis  and  others  not  less  competent, 
but  it  so  happened,  partly  by  accident  and  partly  also  from 
design,  that  we  devoted  our  attention  principally  to  houses 
not  treated  before.  In  so  doing  we  have  hoped  not  only  to 
escape  comparisons,  sure  to  be  disastrous,  but  also  to  aug- 
ment, in  some  slight  degree,  the  sum  total  of  drawings  and 
documents  pertaining  to  Colonial  architecture  in  America. 

In  the  popular  mind,  .Salem  is  so  indissolubly  associated 
with  the  idea  of  witchcraft  that  in  any  article  on  the  subject, 
however  practical  its  nature  or  prosaic  its  style,  it  would  be 
impossible  not  to  refer  in  passing  to  that  insane  delusion,  the 
horrid  and  bloody  results  of  which  have  made  the  town 
famous  not  in  the  history  of  the  country  merely  but  in  that 
of  humanity  at  large.  Indeed,  the  tragedy  enacted  there  two 
centuries  ago  colors  the  life  of  the  place  to-day,  and.  like 
a  murderer's  conscience,  clamors  fur  recognition.  There  is  a 
sinister  something  in  the  names  one  hears,  such  as  the  "  Witch 
House"  and  "Gallows  Hill";  the  very  word  "witch,"  which 
once  struck  terror  to  brave  hearts,  is  used  now  by  tradesmen 
to  enhance  the  value  of  their  wares.  In  the  court-hou<'e  are 
still  to  be  seen  the  documents  relating  to  the  trials,  and  ob- 
jects used  as  evidence;  among  them  the  "  witch  pins  "  with 
which  the  accused  w..;re  supposed  to  have  tormented  their 
victims.  On  the  corner  of  Washington  and  Lynde  Streets 
we  came  upon  a  black  bronze  tablet  bearing  the  following 
inscription  :  — 

"  Nearly  oppofite  this  fpot  flood,  in  the  middle  of  the  flreet, 
a  building  devoted  from  1677  until  17 18  to  municipal 
and  judicial  ufes.  In  it,  in  1692,  were  tried  and  con- 
demned for  witchcraft  mod  of  the  nineteen  perfons  who 
fuffered  death  on  the  gallows.     C}iles    Corey  was  here 


put  to  trial  on  the  fame  charge,  and,  refufing  to  plead, 
was  taken  away  and  prelTed  to  death.  In  January,  1693, 
twenty-one  perfons  were  tried  here  for  witchcraft,  of 
whom  eighteen  were  acquitted  and  three  condemned,  but 
later  fet  free,  together  with  about  150  accufed  perfons  in 
a  general  delivery  which  occurred  in  May." 

It  was  like  encountering  a  funeral  on  the  street,  and, 
hurried  and  preoccupied  as  we  were,  we  could  not  but  pause, 
and  try  to  realize,  if  only  for  an  instant,  the  terror  which 
ruled  the  community  when  husbands  accused  wives,  and 
children  parents,  and  safety  lay  neither  in  wealth  nor  station 
—  least  of  all  in  innocence  —  and  fear  and  cowardice  passed 
like  a  pestilence  from  heart  to  heart. 

In  reading  over  the  reports  of  the  witch  trials  one  is  af- 
flicted by  a  feeling  of  something  uncanny  in  it  all,  and  is 
tempted  to  believe  in  witchcraft  —  obsession  by  evil  spirits, 
and  the  rest ;  but  time  has  strangely  reversed  the  positions  of 
accuser  and  accused,  for  now  it  is  the  judges  who  appear  to 
be  the  vehicle  of  the  diabolic  will,  so  blind  and  implacable 
they  seem  —  so  intent  on  having  the  blood  of  their  victims. 
A  single  instance  will  suffice  to  illustrate  this:  One  of  the 
afllicted  girls  declared  that  Sarah  Good,  then  on  trial,  had 
cut  her  with  a  knife  and  broken  the  blade  in  her  flesh.     Search 


kering  House. 


was  made,  and,  sure  enough,  the  blade  was  found  on  Sarah's 
person.  .\  young  man,  thereupon,  arose  and  exposed  the 
fraud.  He  produced  the  remainder  of  the  knife,  and  told 
how  he  had  thrown  the  broken  blade  away  in  the  presence 
of  the  girl;  but  the  Court,  instead  of  admitting  his  evi- 
dence, dismissed  him  with  an  admonition  not  to  tell  lies 
and  continued  the  taking  of  testimony.     What  wonder  that 


34 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


justice  such  as  this  wrung  from  Martha  Corey  the  pathetic 
protest :  "  You  are  all  against  me  and  I  cannot  help  it ! " 

Next  to  its  having  been  the  centre  of  the  witchcraft  de- 
lusion, Salem  is  perhaps  most  famous  as  the  birthplace  of 
Nathaniel  Hawthorne  and  the  supposed  scene  of  many  of  his 


Custom-House. 

romances.  The  house  where  he  was  born,  and  others  in 
which  he  lived  at  various  times,  may  still  be  seen  by  the 
curious  visitor,  and  so  intermingled  do  the  real  and  the  ideal 
become  with  the  lapse  of  time  that  one  of  the  principal 
"objects  of  interest  "  is  a  house  supposed  to  have  been  the 
original  of  the  "  Seven  Gables,"  though  there  is  little  or  no 
evidence  in  support  of  such  an  assumption.  Whatever  may 
have  once  been  its  condition,  it  certainly  tallies  ill  with  Haw- 
thorne's description  ;  and  of  gables  we  counted  only  two. 
The  Pickering  house  came  much  nearer  our  own  ideal  — 
even  to  the  magnificent  old  elm  before  the  door.  These  two 
are  about  the  only  remaining  examples  of  the  many  and 
steep-gabled  houses  built  here  in  the  middle  of  the  seven- 
teenth century,  in  evident  imitation  of  the  Gothic  half- 
timbered  cottages  of  England. 

We  visited  the  Custom-house,  where  Hawthorne  served  a 
term  in  the  capacity  of  Surveyor  of  the  Port,  an  experience 
which  he  subsequently  immortalized  in  his  introduction  to 
the  "  Scarlet  Letter."  The  place  looks  to-day  exactly  as  he 
there  describes  it :  — 

"  In  my  native  town  of  Salem,  at  the  head  of  what,  half  a 
century  ago,  in  the  days  of  old  King  Darby,  was  a  bustling 
wharf,  —  but  which  is  now  burdened  with  decayed  wooden 
warehouses,  and  exhibits  few  or  no  symptoms  of  commercial 
life;  except,  perhaps,  a  bark  or  brig,  half  way  down  its 
melancholy  length,  discharging  hides;  or,  nearer  at  hand,  a 
Nova  Scotia  schooner  pitching  out  her  cargo  of  firewood,  — 
at  the  head,  I  say,  of  this  dilapidated  wharf,  which  the  tide 
often  overflows,  and  along  which,  at  the  base  and  in  the  rear 
of  the  row  of  buildings,  the  track  of  many  languid  years  is 
feen  in  a  border  of  unthrifty  grass,  —  here,  with  a  view  from 
its  front  windows  adown  this  not  very  enlivening  prospect, 
and  thence  across  the  harbor,  stands  a  spacious  edifice  of 
brick.  From  the  loftiest  point  of  its  roof,  during  precisely 
three-and-a-half  hours  of  each  forenoon,  floats  or  droops,  in 
breeze  or  calm,  the  banner  of  the  Republic;  but  with  the 
thirteen  stripes  turned  vertically,  instead  of  horizontally,  and 
thus  indicating  that  a  civil,  and  not  a  military,  post  of  Uncle 
Sam's  Government  is  here  established.  Its  front  is  orna- 
mented with  a  portico  of  half  a  dozen  wooden  pillars  support- 
ing a  balcony,  beneath  which  a  flight  of  wide  granite  steps 
descends  towards  the  street.  Over  the  entrance  hovers  an 
enormous  specimen  of  the  American  eagle,  with  outspread 
wings,  a  shield  before  her  breast,  and,  if  I  recollect  aright,  a 
bunch  of  intermingled  thunderbolts  and  barbed  arrows  in 
each  claw." 

Fresh  from  a  reperusal  of  Hawthorne's  description  of  his 


life  there,  we  tried  to  imagine  him  as  still  an  incumbent  of 
the  post,  going  about  his  accustomed  duties,  and  we  almost 
duped  ourselves  into  believing  that  we  would  see  his  familiar 
figure  within  each  newly  opened  door.  There  was  little  to  dis- 
courage such  a  fancy.  For  aught  that  we  could  see,  he  might 
have  left  there  only  yesterday.  The  same  superannuated 
sea-captains,  apparently,  slouched  about  the  corridors,  calling 
one  another  "  Cap,"  and  discussing  the  last  or  coming  "clam, 
fry,"  just  as  they  did  when  Hawthorne  passed  among  them 
like  a  prince  disguised  among  his  poor,  —  he  alone  conscious 
of  his  rank  and  power,  and  waiting  till  the  time  came  to 
declare  it.  One  of  the  above-mentioned  dignitaries  showed 
us  the  window  at  which  Hawthorne  worked,  and  the  chamber 
in  which  he  found  the  scarlet  letter  (if  he  ever  found  it,  ex- 
cept in  a  chamber  of  his  brain),  in  a  manner  which  showed 
it  to  be  an  accustomed  service. 

The  building  itself,  erected  about  the  beginning  of  the 
century,  impressed  us  as  a  fine  example  of  later  Colonial 
architecture,  full  of  dignity  and  repose,  and,  though  scarcely 
larger  than  some  of  the  houses  with  which  it  is  surrounded, 
expressing  in  unmistakable  and  appropriate  terms  its  character 
and  office. 

Hawthorne  is  by  no  means  the  only  illustrious  son  of 
Salem.  Prescott  was  born  here ;  here  Roger  Williams  taught 
and  preached,  and  Count  Rumford  kept  a  store.  Wash- 
ington and  Lafayette  both  visited  the  little  town  in  the 
stirring  Revolutionary  days,  and  almost  all  of  the  presidents 
since.  It  is  said  that  the  first  armed  resistance  to  British 
authority  occurred  at  the  North  Bridge  in  an  engagement 
known  as  "Leslie's  Retreat."  In  the  war  of  1812  the  battle 
between  the. '■^  Chesapeake"  and  the  '■'■Shannon"  was  fought 
off  the  shore  of  Salem,  and  was  witnessed  from  the  hills  by 
the  townspeople. 

But  more  interesting  to  us  than  the  town's  history  were  the 
lovely  old  houses  of  which  it  is  built  up. 

We  had  come  to  see  them  and  to  this  purpose  we  devoted 
our  remaining  time.  To  the  mind  of  an  architect  the  build- 
ings of  Salem  arrange  themselves  naturally  into  three  classes : 
First,  those  very  old  houses,  built  by  early  settlers  in  the  most 
primitive  times,  possessing  all  the  dignity  and  simplicity  and, 
withal,  the  barrenness  of  the  Puritan  character,  and  around 
which  cluster  many  strange,  true  histories  and  curious  tradi- 
tions ;  second,  those  built  in  later  Colonial  and  Revolutionary 
days,  usually  by  rich  merchants  and  ship-owners,  when  Salem 
had  become  a  principal  port  of  entry,  and  an  important  com- 
mercial centre,  and  in  which  the  Colonial  style  is  exhibited 
in  its  very  flower  ;  and  third,  those  purely  modern  structures 

—  confused,  chaotic — 
which  have  sprung  up  in 
profusion  in  some  parts  of 
the  town,  like  weeds  in  an 
old-fashioned  garden. 

The  very  oldest  house 
of  all,  as  well  as  the  most 
famous,  is  the  Roger  Wil- 
liams house,  on  the  corner 
of  Essex  and  North 
Streets.  The  exact  date 
of  its  building-  is  not 
known,  but  it  cannot  be 
far  short  of  three  centu- 
ries ago,  for  in  1675  the 
chimneys  had  to  be  taken  down  and  rebuilt.  It  again  suf- 
fered alteration  in  1746,  and  now  a  vulgar  little  modern 
drug-store  grows  out  of  its  withered  old  side,  like  some  ex- 
crescence, indicative  of  age  and  disease  and  swift-coming  dis- 
solution.    The  western  portion,  with  its  quaint,  overhanging 


A  Salem  Back-yard. 


SLY  HOURS  IN  SALEM. 


35 


second  story,  is  almost  all  that  remains  of  the  original 
structure,  but  from  it,  in  imagination,  one  may  reconstruct 
the  whole. 

In  1635  this  house  was  the  home  of  Roger  Williams,  and 
from  it  he  was  driven  by  Puritanical  intolerance  to  seek 
shelter  among  the  Indians  at  Narragansett  Bay,  where  he 


Pingrec  House. 

founded  the  State  of  Rhode  Island,  as  every  school-boy 
knows.  In  a  letter  to  his  friend,  Major  Williams,  he  thus 
refers  to  the  event  which  drove  him  thither  : 

"  When  I  was  unkindly  and  unchriftianly,  as  I  believe, 
driven  from  my  houfe  and  land  and  wife  and  children  (in  the 
midfl  of  a  New  England  winter,  now  about  thirty-five  years 
part)  at  Salem,  that  ever  honored  Governor,  Mr.  Winthrop, 
privately  wrote  to  me  to  fleer  my  courfe  to  the  Nahigonfet 
Bay  and  Indians  for  many  high  and  heavenly  and  publike 
ends  encouraging  me  from  the  freenes  of  the  place  from  any 
Englifh  claims  or  patents.  I  took  his  prudent  motion  as  an 
hint  and  voice  from  God,  and  waving  all  other  thoughts  and 
motives  I  fleered  my  courfe  from  Salem  (through  winter  fnows 
which  I  feel  yet)  into  thefe  parts  where  I  may  fay  Peniel,  that 
is,  I  have  feene  the  face  of  God." 

The  house  passed  then  into  the  possession  of  Captain  Rich- 
ard Davenport,  whose  administrators  sold  it  in  1675  to  Jona- 
than Corwin,  notorious  as  being  one  of  the  two  magistrates 
before  whom  were  tried  and  condemned  those  first  persons, 
"charged  with  certain  deteflable  arts  called  witchcraft  and 
forceries  wickedly  and  felonioully  ufed,  practifed  and  exer- 
cifed  by  which  the  perfons  named  were  tortured,  afflicted, 
pined,  confumed,  wafted  and  tormented."  The  preliminary 
examinations  of  some  of  the  accused  are  said  to  have  taken 
place  in  a  room  of  the  old  house,  and  this  circumstance  has 
given  it  the  name  of  the  "  Witch  House,"  by  which  it  is  best 
known. 

In  rummaging  over  some  old  files  of  the  Essex  Institute 
Bulletin  in  the  Boston  Library  I  came  upon  a  transcript  of 
the  contract  between  Corwin  and  one  Daniel  Andrewe  for 
remodelling  the  house.  I  give  it  here  entire.  As  an  ex- 
ample of  an  early  specification,  it  will  be  seen  to  possess  all 
the  diffuseness  and  obscurity  common  to  such  documents  at 
the  present  time : 

"The  faid  Daniel  Andrewe  is  to  dig  and  build  a  cellar  as 
large  as  the  eafterly  room  of  faid  houfe  will  afford  (and  in 
the  faid  room  according  to  the  breadthe  and  length  of  it)  not 
exceeding  fix  foot  in  height;  and  to  underpin  the  porch  and 
the  remaining  part  of  the  houfe  not  exceeding  one  foot ;  the 
faid  kitchen  being  20  feet  long  and  18  feet  wide;  and  to 
make  fteps  with  flones  into  the  cellar  in  two  places  belong- 
ing to  the  cellar,  together  with  flone  fleps  up  into  the  porch. 
2.  For  the  chimney  he  is  to  take  down  the  chimneys  which 
are  now  ftanding,  and  to  take  and  make  up  of  the  bricks 
that  are  now  in  the  chimneys,  and  the  (tones  that  are  in  the 
lean-to  cellar  that  now  is,  and  to  rebuild  the  faid  chimney 


with  five  fireplaces  viz  :  two  below  and  two  in  the  chambers 
and  one  in  the  garret;  alfo  to  build  one  chimney  in  the 
kitchen  with  ovens  and  a  furnace,  not  exceeding  five  feet 
above  the  top  of  the  houfe.  3.  He  is  to  fet  the  jambs  of 
the  two  chamber  chimneys  and  of  the  eafternmost  room 
below  with  Dutch  tiles,  the  faid  owner  finding  the  tiles;  alfo 
to  lay  all  the  hearths  belonging  to  the  faid  houfe  and  to 
point  the  cellar  and  underpinning  of  fd.  houfe  and  fo  much 
of  the  hearths  as  are  to  be  laid  with  Dutch  tiles  the  faid 
owner  is  to  find  them.  4.  As  for  lathing  and  plaiftering  he 
is  to  lath  and  fiele  the  four  rooms  of  the  houfe  betwixt  the 
joifts  overhead  and  to  plaifter  the  fides  of  the  houfe  with  a 
coat  of  lime  and  haire  upon  the  clay;  alfo  to  fill  the  gable 
ends  of  the  houfe  with  bricks  and  to  plaifl:er  them  with  clay. 
5.  To  lath  and  plaifter  the  partitions  of  the  houfe  with  clay 
and  lime  and  to  fill,  lath  and  plaifler  the  porch  and  porch 
chambers  and  to  plaifter  them  with  lime  and  haire  belides; 
and  to  fiele  and  lath  them  overhead  with  lime  and  to  fill, 
lath  and  plaifter  the  kitchen  up  to  the  wall  plate  on  every 
fide.  The  faid  Daniel  Andrewe  is  to  find  lime,  bricks,  clay, 
ftone,  haire  together  with  labourers  and  workmen  to  help 
him,  and  generally  all  the  materials  for  effefting  and  carrying 
out  of  the  aforefaid  worke,  except  laths  and  nails.  7.  The 
whole  work  before  mentioned  is  to  be  done,  finifhed  and 
performed  att  or  before  the  lart  day  of  Auguft  next  following 
provided  the  faid  Daniel  or  any  that  work  with  him  be  not 
lett  or  hindered  for  want  of  the  carpenter  worke.  8.  Laftly, 
in  confideration  of  the  aforefaid  worke,  fo  finiflied  and  ac- 
complifhed  as  aforefaid,  the  aforefaid  owner  is  to  pay  or 
caufe  to  be  paid  unto  the  faid  workmen  the  fumme  of  fifty 
pounds  in  money  current  in  New  England,  to  be  paid  at  or 
before  the  finiftiing  of  the  faid  worke.  And  for  the  true  per- 
formance of  the  premifes,  we  bind  ourfelves  each  to  other, 
our  heyeres,  executors  and  adminiftrators,  firmly  by  thefe 
prefents,  as  witneffe  our  hands,  this  nineteenth  day  of  Feb- 
ruary, Anno  Domini  1674-5 

Jonathan  Corwin 
Daniel  Andrewe  " 

The  meeting-house  in  which  Roger  Williams  used  to  preach 
—  the  first  for  congregational  worship  built  in  America  —  has 
been  carefully  restored  and  preserved,  and  stands  now  in  the 
rear  of  the  Essex  Institute.  The  frame  is  about  all  that 
remains  of  the  original  building.^  It  is  so  small  that  a  person 
reaching  forward  from  the  front  of  the  gallery  might  touch 
the  extended  hand  of  the  minister  behind  the  desk.  It  is 
used  as  a  repository  for  many  curious  relics,  among  them 
Hawthorne's  desk,  at  which  the  "  Scarlet  Letter"  was  written, 
or  at  least  begun. 

The  Pickering  house,  before  alluded  to,  is  also  of  great 
antiquity,  having  been  built  in  1651  by  John  Pickering,  and 
inhabited  ever  since  by  his  direct  lineal  descendants.  For 
this  reason,  perhaps,  it  betrays  few  evidences  of  the  ravages 

of  time.  There  are  other 
houses  in  Salem,  built 
about  the  sametime,  which, 
though  interesting  histori- 
cally, present  few  attrac- 
tions to  the  lovers  of  ar- 
chitectural beauty.  It  was 
for  those  built  about  the 
year  1800  that  we  reserved 
our  admiration  and  our 
lead-pencils — great  square 
structures,  usually  of  brick 
and  stone,  with  wooden 
cornices  and  porches.  One 
of  them,  typical  of  the  whole  class,  especially  arrested  our  at- 
tention by  the  beauty  of  its  proportions  and  detail.     Standing 

'  During  the  current  year  Mr.  Eben  Putnam  has  brousht  forward  an 
elaborate  argument,  which  seel<s  to  show  that  this  cherisfied  relic  is  not 
the  first  meeting-house  erected  in  1634  and  that, even  if  it  is  the  earliest 
church  building  in  Salem,  still  earlier  churches  were  erected  —  the 
Hoston  and  Camdridge  churches  in  1632  and  the  Dorchester  church  in 
1633.-- Kd. 


Typical  Salem  Frame  House. 


36 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


a  little  back  from  the  street,  and  apart  from  its  neighbors 
on  either  side,  it  displayed  a  fagade  plain  almost  to  barren- 
ness, but  so  well  fenestrated  and  divided  horizontally  by  broad 
bands  of  brickwork  at  each  floor-level  as  to  quite  fill  and 
satisfy  the  eye.  This  wall  was  finished  with  a  well-propor- 
tioned cornice,  and  this,  in  turn,  surmounted  by  a  delicate 
balustrade.  The  only  other  bit  of  ornament  consisted  in  one 
of  those  dainty  and  beautiful  semicircular  porches  before  the 
entrance,  of  which  we  saw  so  many  in  Salem.  Through 
the  courtesy  of  its  occupants,  we  obtained  admission  to  this 
house,  and  made  drawings  of  much  of  its  interior  woodwork, 
which  was  both  rich  and  refined.  It  was  while  so  engaged 
that  we  first  learned  that  the  house  had  been  the  scene  of  one 
of  the  most  horrible  murders  in  all  the  history  of  crime,  known 
at  the  time  of  its  committal  as  the  "  Salem  Murder,"  and 
celebrated  alike  for  its  cold-blooded  brutality,  the  high  posi- 
tion of  many  of  the  individuals  concerned,  and  the  singular 
succession  of  fatalities  which  accompanied  and  followed  it. 
The  facts  are,  briefly,  these : 

In  a  room  of  the  old  house,  on  the  night  of  the  6th  of 
April,  1830,  Capt.  Joseph  White,  a  rich  and  respected  citizen 
of  Salem,  was  stabbed  and  beaten  to  death,  as  was  alleged, 
by  his  nephews,  George  and  Richard  Crowninshield,  and  an 
accomplice,  in  order,  it  is  supposed,  to  obtain  possession  of 
the  old  man's  will.  When  the  crime  was  discovered,  the 
whole  countryside  was  aroused,  a  great  public  meeting 
held,  and  the  murderers  hunted  down  and  apprehended. 
In  the  trials  which  followed,  some  of  the  greatest  lawyers  in 
the  country  participated,  among  them  Daniel  Webster  and 
Samuel  Hoar.  The  jury  failed  to  agree,  and  so  the  trials 
came  to  nothing ;  but  they  were  full  of  startling  and  dra- 
matic incidents.  Chief  Justice  Isaac  Parker,  immediately 
after  delivering  his  charge  to  the  jury,  fell  forward,  dead, 
and  one  of  the  Crowninshields  killed  himself  in  jail  while 
waiting  trial.  The  other,  Richard,  was  the  inventor  of  some 
of  the  most  intricate  machinery  used  in  the  factories  of  New 
England  to-day. 

This  tale,  when  we  heard  it,  somehow  dampened  our  archi- 
tectural ardors.  At  this  window,  we  reflected,  where  now 
the  sun  streamed  so  brightly  in,  the  assassin  entered;  these 
floors  creaked  warningly  beneath  his  stealthy  feet,  and  then 
were  treacherously  still ;  this  spotless  white  woodwork  had 
been  crimsoned  by  the  old  man's  blood  ;  these  walls  resounded 
with  his  dying  groans.  We  did  not  care  to  linger  after 
that,  but  tiptoed  down    the   broad    stairs   and  through   the 


still  hall  out  into  the  welcome  noise  and  glare  of  Essex  Street. 

The  Essex  Institute  was  just  next  door,  and  we  spent  half 
an  hour  very  pleasantly  in  the  museum,  where  there  are  many 
pieces  of  fine  old  furniture  and  woodwork  taken  from  houses 
now  destroyed,  \^'e  found  fine  furniture,  also,  in  the  house 
of  Major  George  Whipple,  and  the  first  "  Salem  cupboard  " 
that  we  had  ever  seen. 

A  little  beyond  the  Essex  Institute  is  the  armory  of  the 
Salem  Cadets,  a  stately  old  house  built  by  Col.  Francis  Pea- 
body  in  1818.  Its  front  is  diversified  by  two  segment-shaped 
bays,  in  this  respect  a  departure  from  the  usual  Salem  type, 
though  a  common  feature  of  many  old  houses  in  Boston. 
The  interior  is  more  than  ordinarily  grand,  one  room  con- 
taining a  white  marble  mantel  with  carved  caryatides.  OflE 
of  the  stair-landing  is  a  banqueting-hall  finished  in  oak  in 
Elizabethan  Gothic,  where,  we  are  told  by  the  guide-book, 
"  Prince  Arthur  of  England  was  entertained  at  dinner  on  the 
occasion  of  his  attending  the  funeral  of  George  Peabody, 
the  banker,  February  8,  1870."  This  rich,  dark,  elaborate 
interior  is  in  startling  contrast  to  the  trim  white  Colonial 
finish  of  the  rest  of  the  house. 

We  left  Salem  for  Boston  about  three  in  the  afternoon, 
with  such  feelings  of  regret  as  must  have  been  Sinbad's  on 
quitting  the  Valley  of  Diamonds,  for,  to  our  unaccustomed 
Western  eyes,  the  place  seemed  a  veritable  mine  of  archi- 
tectural wealth.  The  permanent  impression  left  with  us  by 
our  hasty  visit  was  of  an  exceedingly  quaint  and  picturesque 
old  town,  striving  here  and  there  to  be  "smart "and  modern, 
like  some  faded  spinster  who  has  seen  better  days,  who  mis- 
takenly prefers  our  shoddy  fabrics  to  the  faded  silks  and 
yellow  lace  and  other  heirlooms  of  an  opulent  past.  The  old 
houses  which  we  visited,  as  redolent  with  memories  of  other 
days  as  a  rose  that  has  been  kissed  and  laid  away,  awoke  in 
us  a  mood  of  pleasant  melancholy  full  of  vague  guesses  and 
conjectures.  It  was  as  though  the  houses  themselves  were 
trying  to  communicate  to  us  their  secrets,  and  had  half  suc- 
ceeded. They  seemed,  indeed,  human  in  a  way  that  modern 
houses  never  do  —  like  the  Colonial  dames,  their  mistresses 
—  trim,  plain  and  a  bit  prudish  in  outward  appearance,  but 
interiorly  beautiful,  full  of  fine  and  delicate  sentiment.  This 
comparison,  fanciful  perhaps,  is  yet  applicable  to  the  old 
houses  of  the  South,  which  occupy  their  acres  more  invit- 
ingly, with  iess  restraint,  and  are,  altogether,  more  charming 
outwardly,  yet,  within,  are  not  without  a  certain  strain  of 
coarseness.  Claude  Fayette  Bragdon, 


The  Relation  of  Georgian  Architecture 
to  Carpentry. 


t^.t^Pt-ag'      Milan      •        •'••     ,:J^*iiiv  ' 

liN         II    lliii  ;:iiii;   till  III  li 


SMALL  need  is  there  for  any  one  to  be  at  pains  to  It  might  almost  be  said  that  the  history  of  English  domes- 

prove  the  importance  of  timber-work  as  an  element  tic  architecture  has  been  a  record  of  the  progressive  rejection 
in  English  domestic  architecture.  The  very  paucity  of  timber.  To-day  we  are  wiihin  easy  distance  of  building 
of  our  evidences  of  the  earlier  methods  of  British  houses  in  which  there  is  no  timber  at  all;  we  have  certainly 
house-building  is  in  itself  a  testimony  to  the  prevalence  of  achieved  the  power  of  dispensing  with  wood  as  a  construe- 
wood  as  the  principal  means  of  construction.  The  students  tive  element,  and,  indeed,  we  exercise  this  power  to  such  an 
of  mediffival  architecture  sometimes  wonder  why  it  is  that  the  extent  that  there  are  houses  of  which  it  could  be  claimed 
subjects  offered  for  their  consideration  are  nearly  always  that  they  contain  no  wood  except  such  as  is  there  for  decora- 
churches,  sometimes 
castles,  and  but  sel- 
dom houses.  And 
the  main  reason  for 
this  disproportion- 
ate survival  of  relig- 
ious buildings  is,  no 
doubt,  the  simple 
fact  that  the  Eng- 
lishman of  the  Mid- 
dle Ages,  and  in- 
deed of  later  times, 
though  he  associ- 
ated stone  with  his 
ideas  of  church- 
building,  used  tim- 
ber of  choice  and  of 
necessity  for  the 
walls  of  his  own 
house.  Fire  and 
old  age  have  made 
clearance  of  these 
wooden  homes,  but 
have  left  the  ma- 
sonry of  the  cathedrals.  Even  churches,  as  we  know,  were  a  door,  apparently  of  mahogany,  the  other  day  which,  its 
built  of  timber  in  the  first  days  of  British  Christianity,  and  creator  proudly  declared,  was  mainly  composed  of  a  new 
if  we  can  realize  the  fact  that  the  primitive  English  places  species  of  fireproof  papier-mache!  E^xcept  on  grounds  of 
of  worship  were  not  only  very  stnall,  but  of  very  light  wooden  fire-prevention,  this  successful  contest  against  the  work  of  the 
construction,  and  perhaps  without  any  foundations,  we  shall  carpenter  and  joiner  is  a  spectacle  of  the  most  melancholy 
appreciate  the  possibility  of  there  being  more  human  force  kind  —  most  melancholy  and  most  modern.  For,  though  the 
than  miracle  in  the  feat  of  .St.  Dunstan,  who,  with  a  thrust  of  struggle  has,  in  a  sense,  b-en  going  on  through  all  the  ages, 
his  strong  shoulder,  corrected  the  orientation  of  a  chancel  the  conclusion  that  wherever  a  substitute  can  be  found  for 
which  did  not  duly  face  the  East.  wood  it  should  be  used  in  preference  to  it  is  a  product  of 

I 


Fig.    1.     Godtrey   House,   Hollingbouriie,   Kent.     lUiilt   15S7:    restored  185'^. 


tive  purposes  —  and 
for  doors.  Our 
floors,  our  very 
roofs,  we  make  of 
concrete  and  steel, 
our  stairs  are  stone 
or  concrete,  our 
window-frames  are 
iron  or  gun-metal, 
and,  though  one 
nwy  enter  a  room 
which  appears  to 
have  a  wooden 
chimney-piece  and 
a  painted  deal  dado, 
the  chances  are  that 
you  will  find  the 
former  to  be  cast- 
iron  and  the  latter 
some  composition  of 
a  s  b  e  s  t  i  c  plaster. 
The  wooden  door, 
it  must  be  owned, 
dies  hard,  but  I  saw 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


entirely  modern  reasoning.  Even  in  the  days  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century  the  verdict  in  the  battle  of  materials  was  wont 
to  go  the  other  way.  In  fact,  it  might  be  stated  as  a  general 
proposition  that  the  architects  of  the  Georgian  period  be- 
lieved in  their  inmost  hearts  that  in  spite  of  the  rivalry  of 
other  materials, 
there  was  really  in 
the  long  run  nothing 
like  wood.  The  ver- 
satile Dean  Aldrich, 
in  his  Latin  treatise 
on  the  elements  of 
architecture,  bids  his 
readers,  if  they  would 
secure  a  sound  foun- 
dation, lay  the  foot- 
ings of  their  walls 
on  trunks  of  trees; 
and  those  of  us  who 
are  engaged  in  Lon- 
don architecture  are 
aware  that  a  fre- 
quent source  of  un- 
expected expense  in 
street  building  is  the 
necessity  for  cutting 
out  of  the  old  party- 
walls  (under  the  per- 
emptory orders  of  a 

district-surveyor)  the  ''bond-timbers,"  without  which  our  fore- 
fathers considered  a  brick  structure  incomplete.  In  fact, 
it  would  almost  seem  as  if  even  a  hundred  years  ago  the 
builders  of  houses,  while  realizing  the  usefulness  of  brick  and 
stone,  were  still  scientifically  convinced  that,  for  real  stability, 
unity  and  solidity  in  any  fabric,  timber  was  a  necessity. 

But  we  must  go  back  for  a  while  and  look  at  the  antece- 
dents, in  order  that 
we  may  see  what 
stages  led  up  to  that 
phase  of  English 
architecture  which, 
when  carried  over- 
sea and  translated 
into  Colonial  terms, 
took  so  kindly  to  its 
new  climate,  and 
seemed  to  find  in 
the  luxuriant  timber 
supply  of  the  New 
World  not  so  much  a 
need  for  any  modifi- 
cation of  its  methods 
as  an  opportunity  for 
fuller  realization  and 
development  on  the 
original  lines. 

Timber  construc- 
tion had  taken  sev- 
eral forms  in  l^ritish 

architecture.  The  most  familiar,  perhaps  the  most  typical, 
form  of  timber  exterior  is  that  which  presents  itself  in  Chester 
and  the  neighborhood,  and  which  we  know  as  "  half-timber- 
ing." Its  structural  origin  is  very  simple  :  it  consists  of  the 
primal  elements  of  wooden  formation.  However  wooden 
walls  may  be  finished,  they  consist  essentially  of  some  form 
of  framework  which  would  not  of  itself  exclude  the  weather. 


Wesley's  Cottage,  Rolvendcn  Laytie,  Kent. 


Fig.  3.     Rawlinson  Fa: 


having  interstices  between  its  structural  posts.  The  neces- 
sary continuous  solidity  of  the  walls  is  secured  either  by 
filling  these  interstices  or  by  covering  the  whole  formation. 
In  the  case  of  the  half-timbering  it  is  the  former  method 
which  is  adopted.     The  posts,  which  are  the  elements  of  the 

fabric,  are  exposed 
and  the  intermediate 
spaces  are  filled-in 
with  plastering. 
The  richer  and  more 
elaborate  examples 
of  this  much  ad- 
mired, but  some- 
times ^/art/-/-^',  style  of 
art  are  well  known, 
and  are  fully  illus- 
trated in  the  books 
which  deal  specifi- 
cally with  this  class 
of  work.  The  speci- 
mens which  I  offer 
here  in  illustration 
of  the  subject  are 
taken  from  less 
known  buildings, 
and  are  chosen  for 
their  simplicity  of 
style  —  there  is  noth- 
ing aggressively 
Jacobean  or  Elizabethan  about  them.  They  have  no  strong 
reminiscences  of  Gothic  tradition,  still  less  do  they  breathe 
the  spirit  of  the  New  Birth.  They  are  quiet  evidences  of 
straightforward  Anglo-Saxon  construction  in  a  plain,  honest 
Anglo-Saxon  material.  They  are  homes  in  fact.  And  what- 
ever there  is  about  them  of  style  is  of  that  style  which  is 
merely  the  outcome  of  direct  expression  in  handicraft.     It 

is  the  style  of  the 
bench,  not  that  of 
the  study.  They 
show  craftsmanship, 
not  scholarship. 
One  of  my  illustra- 
tions, that  of  God- 
frey House,  Holling- 
bourne,  has  an  ascer- 
tained date.  It  was 
erected  in  1587,  and, 
strangely  enough, 
has  survived  without 
hopeless  disfigure- 
ment a  restoration 
in  1859,  a  date  at 
which  restoration 
could  still  be  unkind. 
This  photograph 
with  that  of  Wesley's 
cottage  at  Rolven- 
den  Layne  (Kent), 
exhibit  the  use  of 
diagonal  struts  in  the  framing,  which  in  some  examples  is 
found  strongly  developed,  and  in  others  is  purposely,  as  far 
as  possible,  suppressed.  Obviously  there  are  conditions 
under  which  diagonals  of  this  kind  are  a  great  source  of 
strength  in  a  construction  which  without  them  might  suc- 
cumb disastrously  to  oblique  pressure,  but  it  is  a  curious  fact 
that  rural  builders,  who  cultivated  this  picturesque  method. 


ront  View,  Kolvenden,  Kent. 


THE  RELATION  OF  GEORGIAN  ARCHITECTURE   TO   CARPENTRY. 


were  sometimes  very  unmethodical    in    tlieir   disposition  of  lath-work  and  renderinjj  are  carried  right  over  the  face  of 

these  elements  of  stability,  and  appear  to  have  used  at  ran-  the  wooden  posts.     In  this  example  will  be  seen  an  instance 

dom  what   one  thinks  should   be  a  calculated  force  in  the  of  the  device  common  to  most  European  town  architecture  of 

structural  economy.  wooden  construction,  the  corbelling-out  of  the  upper  story  in 

The  two  views  (Figs.  3  and  4)  of  Rawlinson   Farm,  Rol-  advance  of  that  below.     There  are  many  good  reasons  for 

venden  (Kent),  give  an  example  of  the  vertical  method  undis-  this  expedient,  and  its  method  of  construction  is  extremely 


turbed  by  any 
diagonal  features  of 
design.  Brick  is, 
of  course,  employed 
for  the  chimneys  in 
all  these  construc- 
tions and  in  the  last 
example  is  even 
made  use  of  for 
some  of  the  walling, 
but  the  constructors 
have  evidently  felt 
that  for  general  pur- 
poses the  claims 
both  of  beauty  and 
economy  demanded 
the  use  of  timber. 
The  cottage  at 
Martyr  Worthing 
(Fig.  5),  a  very 
humble  little  build- 
ing, leads  to  the 
mention  of  a  second 
method   of  filiing-in 


Fig.  4.     Kawlinsoii  Farm:    Rear  View,  Rolvenden,  Kent. 


simple.  It  will  be 
understood  that  the 
carrying  over  of 
the  upper  wall-sur- 
faces not  only  pro- 
vides a  shelter  for 
passengers  on  the 
pavement,  but  is  a 
great  protection  to 
the  building  itself. 
In  any  building  in 
which  such  a  treat- 
ment is  applied  to 
one  story  above  an- 
other  in  several 
stages,  it  is  obvious 
that  the  foundations 
are  completely  pro- 
tected from  drip, 
and  that  each  stage 
is  shielded  from  wet 
by  the  stage  above 
it.  Another  advant- 
age  where    land    is 


between  the  posts  of  the  framework  —  the  use,  namely,  of      valuable  is  that,  while  observing  the  frontage  line  at  the  street 


brickwork  itself  as  a  sort  of  subsidiary.  This  method  is  a 
strange  reversal  of  our  modern  methods  and  modern  ideas. 
The  architect  of  to-day,  who  uses  his  half-timber  work  for  its 
visible  effect  rather  than  for  any  constructional  value,  is 
wont,  in  England  at  least,  to  plant  his  limber  framing  (some- 
times rather  thin  framing,  too)  upon  a  hackwork  of  brick, 
thereby  acknowl- 
edging to  himself  at 
least,  if  not  to  his 
public,  that  he  looks 
to  the  brick  for  sta- 
bility, warmth  and 
resistance  to 
weather,  and  recog- 
nizes the  wooden 
formation  as  a 
merely  a;sthetic  ad- 
junct. With  the 
older  generation  the 
motif  was  reversed. 
Brick  was  well 
enough  for  a  mere 
filling-in,  but  the 
strength  was  ex- 
pected from  the 
timber. 

Another  cottage 
(Fig.  6)  exhibits  yet 
another   method    of 

finishing  the  surface  of  a  timber-built  wall.  The  upper  story 
is  so  plastered  and  colored  as  to  produce  the  appearance  of 
a  uniform  material.  The  plaster-work  of  the  filling-in  be- 
tween the  beams  is  either  quite  flush  with  the  face  of  the 


Fig.  5.     Cottage  at  Martyr  WortliiniL;,  near  Winchester,  Hants. 


level,  the  owner  gains  a  little  added  accommodation  by 
enlarging  his  site,  so  to  speak,  at  the  upper  levels.  Need- 
less to  say,  the  Vestries,  Borough  (,'ouncils  and  District 
Surveyors  of  modern  cities  are  very  chary  of  permitting  such 
old-time  methods  of  overhead  trespass. 

The  simplest  method  of  effecting  an  overhanging  wall  of 

this  description  is 
to  carry  the  floor- 
joists  through  the 
front  wail,  allowing 
them  to  project  to 
the  required  dis- 
tance. On  the  end 
of  these  joists, 
which  thus  become 
can  t  i  levers,  i  s 
placed  the  wooden 
framing  which  forms 
the  front  wall  of  the 
upper  story,  neatly 
finished  off  with  a 
moulded  fascia. 

One  of  the  note- 
worthy facts  in  the 
history  of  pjiglish 
timber  architecture 
is  that,  in  spite  of 
all  the  changes 
of  passing  styles 
and  fashions,  almost  in  opposition  to  them,  it  pursued  its 
course  as  a  natural  vernacular  and  traditional  craft,  and  thus 
retained  a  continuity  unknown  to  the  kindred  arts  of  masonry 
and   brickwork.     The  carpenter  had   a  soul   above  foreign 


timber  (as  in   the   left-hand   portion   of  the   building)  or  is      novelties,  or,  to  put  it  more  simply  and,  perhaps,  more  truth- 
brought  so  far  forward,  as  in  the  right-hand  gable,  that   the      fully,   he   had    about    him   a   good    British   obstinacy,    which 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Fig.  6.     House  at  West  Wycombe,  Bucks, 


Fig.  7.     The  Butter  Walk,  Dartmouth. 


Fig.   8.     Did  House  in  Hooper  Street,  Dartmouth. 


Fig.   9.     Detail  of  Window  in  the  IJutter  Walk,  Dartmouth. 


THE  RELATION  OE  GEORGIAN  ARCHITECTURE    TO   CARPENTRY. 


5 


retarded  the  growth  of  innovation  and  kept  alive  the  spirit  tional  conservatism  to  which  Mr.  IJionilieid  alludes.  Thanks 
of  antiquity  in  his  handiwork.  Mr.  Blomfield,  in  his  ^'History  to  an  almost  divine  protection  which  has  saved  many  of 
of  the  Renaissance  in  England"  gives  full  prominence  to  this     these    beautiful   fabrics  from    the  destruction   which   might 


important  factor  in 
the  architectural  de- 
velopments of  our 
country.  "  The  ear- 
lier examples  of  six- 
teenth-century car- 
pentry are,"  he  says, 
"Gothic  rather  than 
Renaissance  in 
character.  The  old 
methods  in  use  by 
the  excellent  carpen- 
ters of  the  fifteenth 
century  were  regu- 
larly followed,  and 
the  gables,  the  over- 
hanging stories,  the 
spurs  or  angle-posts, 
cusping  and  tracery, 
and  many  a  detail  of 
ornamentation  show 
that,  in  spite  of  the 
changes  that  were 
imminent,   the   car- 


Fig.   10.    Ttie  liutter  Walk,  Dartmoutli. 


have  seemed  almost 
inevitable,  it  would 
be  possible  still  to 
illustrate  this  part  of 
the  subject  with  a 
very  large  collection 
of  reproductions 
from  buildings  still 
in  existence.  T  h  e 
few  photographs 
here  brought  to- 
gether will  be  enough 
for  our  immediate 
purpose.  Five  of 
my  examples  (Figs. 
7,  8,  9,  10,  1 1)  are 
from  Dartmouth,  a 
town  which  rivals 
Chester  in  its  de- 
vices for  obtaining 
the  maximum 
amount  of  house- 
rooiTi  over  the  pave- 
ment,    and    like 


penter  followed  the  medincval  tradition  as  faithfully  as  his  Chester,  though  in  a  less  degree,  secures  the  result  by  the 

inferior  skill  would  allow,  and  few  things  are  more  remark-  erection  of  a  colonnade  above  the  sidewalk,  thereby  produc- 

able  in  the  history  of  English  art  than  the  pertinacity  of  this  ing  a  covered  way.     The  houses  in  the  Butter  Walk  (Figs.  7 

tradition."  and  10)  belong,  I  suppose,  to  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 


Fijf.   11.     House  at  Dartmouth. 


Fig.    12.     Two  Houses  in  the  Higli  Street,  Exeter. 


The  whole  of  the  Elizabethan  and  Jacobean  periods  of  century,  and  are  certainly  brilliant  examples  of  an  architect- 
English  architecture  must  have  been  full  of  manifestations  ure  the  style  of  which  is  much  more  easily  defined  by 
of  street  architecture  exhibiting  the  principles  of  construe-  geographical  than  by  chronological  limits.  Its  genius,  one 
tion  with  which  I  have  been   dealing  and  the  spirit  of  tradi-  may  say,   is  (Jothic  :    it  is  of  a  piece  with  the  traditions  of 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


that  older  England  to  which  the  whisper  of  the  Italian 
awakening  had  not  yet  come ;  nor  can  it  be  said  that,  while 
Gothic  in  structure,  it  is  Classic  in  detail :  certainly  it  offers 
here  and  there  a  passable  "guilloche,"  and  there  is  a  hint 
in  places  of  a  dentil-course  and  a  regulation  beaded  astragal, 
but  the  closer  one  looks  the  less  evidence  one  finds  of  the 
proprieties  of  scholarship.  That  twining  vine  of  the  first- 
fioor  frieze  has  about  it  an  archaic  freedom  that  might  grow 
upon  an  "  ambo  "  at  Torcello,  and  the  uncouth  slab  that  sur- 
mounts the  columns  (who  shall  dub  them  Doric  ?)  is  far  more 
like  the  rude  energy  of  Ravenna  than  any  example  to  be 
found  in  the  handbooks  of  Palladio  or  in  the  ^'Mirror  of 
Architecture^  The  sashes  which  have  found  their  way  into 
the  top  story  and  into  the  sides  of  the  bay-window  are,  of 
course,  interpolations,  little  bits  of  innovation  already  grown 
old.     The  two  further  Dartmouth  examples  (Figs.  8  and  ii) 


in  Figure  13,  which  I  take  to  be  a  somewhat  older  house. 
To  turn  from  Western  England  to  Kent,  we  see  once  more 
what  can  be  done  with  timber,  and  how  long  it  may  endure 
in  the  two  examples  which  I  have  taken  from  Rochester. 
The  designer  of  the  house  in  Figure  14  must,  I  think,  have 
produced  an  internal  effect  which  it  might  be  worth  while  to 
repeat  in  modern  buildings.  There  has  been  in  modern  Eng- 
land a  strife  of  architects  over  the  subject  of  the  function  of 
windows,  one  extreme  school  holding  that  as  the  use  of  a 
window  is  to  let  in  light,  it  is  well  to  range  the  windows  at 
a  high  level  along  the  whole  length  of  the  window  wall,  the 
other  arguing  that  the  window's  mission  is  to  give  the  in-, 
habitant  the  means  of  looking  out,  and  that,  therefore,  the 
sill  must  be  placed  so  low  down  that  the  eye  even  of  a  per- 
son sitting  well  back  in  the  room  is  not  obstructed  in  its 
outward  vision;  a  middle  school,  containing  most  persons  of 


Fig.    13.     Old  Houses  in  the  Ilitjll  Street,  Exeter. 


Fig     (4.     F.astgate  House,  Rochester,  Kent. 


are  evidently  of  the  same  period.  They  exhibit  the  same 
excellence  of  carving  in  the  corbels  which  support  the  bay- 
windows,  proof  of  the  fact,  which  is  sometimes  overlooked, 
that  alongside  of  an  almost  barbaric  habit  of  sculpture  in 
frieze-work  and  running  ornament  there  existed  in  England, 
throughout  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries,  a 
school  of  architectural  carvers  whose  work  had  all  the 
elements  of  rustic  vigor  and  beauty. 

The  West  of  England  must  have  been  especially  rich  in 
timber  street-architecture.  Even  in  Bristol,  a  town  which  is 
becoming  rapidly  modernized,  there  are  side-streets  close  to 
the  main  thoroughfares  that  set  one  thinking  of  Shakespeare, 
and  Exeter,  a  city  not  yet  absorbed  by  the  enterprise  of  the 
latter-day  commerce,  contains  several  houses  of  ancient  date. 
The  simpler  of  my  two  examples  (Fig.  12)  is  a  good  specimen 
of  that  bow-window  treatment,  coupled  with  overhanging 
stories,  which  gains  for  the  owner  increased  accommoda 
tion  on  each  higher  floor ;  and  the  same  thing  is  exhibited 


common  sense,  has  realized  that  the  window  has,  and  always 
has  had,  both  functions,  and  has,  therefore,  perpetuated  the 
use  of  the  ordinary  normal  window,  which,  while  keeping  a 
tow  sill,  gets  what  effect  of  breadth  it  can.,  without  unduly 
absorbing  the  wall-space.  I  think  that  this  Rochester  win- 
dow would  unite  the  demands  of  both  disputant  parties,  not 
by  the  concessions  of  compromise  (which  imply  a  sacrifice 
on  both  sides,  but  by  positively  uniting  the  claims  of  both 
systems).  In  the  other  Rochester  house  (Fig.  15)  we  may 
admire  the  bravery  which  has  abandoned  symmetry.  We 
have  here  an  elevation  marked  out  by  three  gables  ;  beneath 
them  on  both  first  and  second  floors  are  three  bay-windows, 
but  the  designer  thinking  more  of  inward  convenience  than 
outward  effect,  or,  perhaps,  realizing,  as  few  men  realize  in 
these  days  of  drawing-boards,  that  a  building  in  a  street  is 
not  often  seen  in  true  orthographic  elevation,  has  thrown  his 
centrelines  to  the  winds  and  produced  a  composition  whose 
grace  is  no  way  marred  by  the  neglect  of  vertical  rhythm. 


THE  RELATION  OF  GEORGIAN  ARCHirECTURE    TO   CARPENTRY. 


These  instances  will  have  given  point  to  the  quotation 
from  Mr.  Blomfield"s  book,  and  will  have  shown  how  it  came 
about  that  the  development 
which  we  know  as  Georgian 
architecture  found  the  English 
builders  steeped  in  the  living 
traditions  of  centuries  of  lim- 
ber-construction. The  import- 
ance of  this  as  a  factor  in  the 
success  of  that  architeclure  will 
be  easily  demonstrated.  Mean- 
while, before  turning  into  the 
Georgian  period,  let  me  offer 
just  one  more  example  of  ear- 
lier work,  the  rather  nonde- 
script but  certainly  picturesque 
little  Cloth  Hall  at  Newbury, 
which,  at  the  time  of  writing,  is 
about  to  be  saved  from  ruin  by 
a  careful  reparation.  One 
would  hardly  guess  from  a  first 
glance  at  the  illustration  (Fig. 
i6)  how  largely  the  building 
partakes  of  wooden  construc- 
tion. A  coating  of  cement  has 
reduced  the  whole  of  the  upper 
story  to  an  appearance  of  uni- 
form material;  but  it  becomes 
obvious  as  one  studies  the  way 
in  which  that  upper  story  is 
supported  that  though  the  end- 
wall,  with  its  stone  coping  and 
solid  "kneelers,"  is  probably 
of  brickwork,  the  side-walls,  supported  as  they  are  by  the 
wooden  brackets  shown  in  Figure  17  (and  no  doubt  by  con- 


Fig.  15.    Houses  in  Rochester.  Kent. 


framing.'      The    very   base-wall,    which    the   failure   of   the 
cement-facing  reveals  to  be  brick,  is  not  of  brick  alone,  but 

has  a  skeleton  of  timber,  and 
I  doubt  not  that  the  Doric  col- 
umns (whose  round  abaci  sug- 
gest the  misinterpretation  of  a 
drawing)  are  of  really  con- 
structive value.  I  suspect  that 
the  cement  labels  are  a  mod- 
ern addition. 

There  are  many  folks  to 
whom  it  occurs  to  think  that 
Georgian  architecture  consists 
of  a  rather  meaningless  addi- 
tion of  scraps  of  Classical 
reminiscence  to  an  otherwise 
rather  commonplace  method  of 
house-building.  They  would 
tell  you  that  the  recipe  for  such 
Art  was  simply  to  design  your 
building  as  nearly  as  possible 
in  the  form  of  a  cube ;  to  place 
your  doors  and  windows  as 
symmetrically  as  may  be ;  to 
trim  the  latter  with  lengths  of 
so-called  "  architrave  "  mould- 
ing; to  deck  the  door  with  a 
flattened  composition  which 
might  be  a  direct  transcript 
from  anybody's  book  on  the 
Roman  orders;  to  apply  to 
the  eaves  any  Classic  cornice 
that  happens  to  be  adaptable, 
and  to  confine  the  internal  decoration  to  the  perpetration  of 
yet  one  more  theft  from  the  architectural  class-books,  a  set 


Fig.   16.     Clolt)  Hall,  Newbury. 


Fig     17.      (inckets:    (  Im I 


of 


cealed  floor-joists  as  well),  must,  undoubtedly,  be  of  wooden     of  chimney-pieces  which  shall  be  mimic  representations 

tl   have   confirmed   this   impr^ion^.y  examininR  one   of   the      f  ramTng.  battened,  hung  with  tiles  and  rendered  with  cement  above 
walls  since   I   wrote  these  remarks.     The  side-wall  is  of   timber-      the  tiles. 


8 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


the  temple-ruins  in  the  Forum,  and,  in  the  United  States,  to 
paint  the  wooden  walls  yellow  and  the  standing-finish  white. 
Now,  a  very  little  thought  and  a  very  little  study  will  show 
the  unreasonableness  of  this  taunt ;  and  there  may  be  no 
harm  in  going  for  a  while  to  the  root  of  the  matter.  However 
much  we  may  laugh  at  the  theorists  who  see  in  every  detail 
of  Classic  architecture  the  survival  of  some  feature  or  other 
in  a  prehistoric  wooden  construction,  there  can,  I  think,  be 
no  question  but  that  there  must  be  some  truth  in  the  idea 
that  the  orders  and  their  adjuncts  are  derived  from  wooden 
tradition.  Obviously,  wood  preceded  stone  as  the  primitive 
material  of  human  habitations.  Obviously,  a  timber  log 
makes  a  better  and  a  longer  beam  than  does  a  stone  lintel ; 
obviously,  under  certain  circumstances,  a  vertical  trunk  makes 
as  good  a  post  or  column  as  can  be  made  out  of  stone.  In 
fact,  from  the  point-of-view  of  primitive  man,  and  for  the 
purpose  of  immediate  needs,   setting  aside   durability   and 


Fig.   18.     House  at  Totnes,  Soiilh  Devon. 

permanence,  wood  is  as  useful  a  material  for  building  as 
stone.  We  are,  therefore,  almost  bound  to  look  for  a  timber 
architecture  as  the  logical  and  historical  predecessor  of  ar- 
chitecture in  stone,  and,  indeed,  the  more  that  study  is  given 
to  the  functional  nature  of  the  detail  of  the  Classic  orders 
the  more  does  it  become  apparent  that  the  shapes  which 
have  become  so  fixed  and  familiar  can  claim  a  reasonable 
derivation  in  wooden  forms.  Even  if  such  a  parentage  be 
disproved,  the  converse  of  my  argfument  is,  undoubtedly, 
true,  and  it  is  this  converse  truth  that  1  atn  here  at  pains  to 
set  forth.  Perhaps  the  very  best  instance  in  point  is  that  of 
the  eighteenth-century  application  of  the  Classic  cornice 
as  the  crowning-member  of  a  Georgian  gentleman's  house. 
What  did  necessity  demand  ?  A  gutter,  a  covering  for  the 
heels  of  the  rafters,  and  some  collection  of  mouldings  of 
receding  section,  which  would  effect  the  required  amount 
of  projection  from  wall-face  to  gutter,  without  allowing  over- 
flow from  the  gutter  to  run  down  the  wall-face.     All  these 


requirements  you  may  fulfil  without  great  expense,  and  with 
a  good  deal  of  refinement,  by  simp'y  working  in  deal  the 
regulation  mouldings  of  the  Tuscan,  Doric,  Ionic,  or  Corin- 
thian order.  The  cyma,  whether  you  execute  it  in  lead-lined 
wood  or  in  metal,  will  give  you  your  gutter,  the  fascia  covers 
your  rafter-heels,  and  the  bed-mould,  with  or  without  trusses, 
according  to  the  amount  of  projection  required,  neatly  fin- 
ishes, and  partly  supports,  the  whole  arrangement  in  a  way 
which  precludes  the  dribbling  of  water  down  the  frontage. 

So,  again,  with  the  Georgian  porch.  The  house-builder 
says  to  himself  —  "My  walls  are  of  brick  and  they  are  14  or, 
may  be,  18  inches  thick.  I  cannot,  for  various  reasons,  form 
my  doorway  of  entrance  simply  by  making  an  aperture  of 
7  feet  by  3  feet  through  the  wall,  with  a  door  hung  in  it. 
For  one  thing,  brick  is  an  unpleasant  material  to  rub  against 
in  coming  into  the  house,  for  another  I  want  more  depth 
thm   my   14  or   18  inches  will  give  me,  so   that  a  waiting 


Fig.    19.     House  on  tlie  Abbey  Yard,  Eatll. 

visitor  on  the  doorstep  may  have  some  protection  from  sun 
and  rain.  To  secure  this  I  must  apply  wood  or  some  such 
iTiaterial  to  my  reveals,  and  I  must  contrive  to  bring  this  con- 
struction forward  so  as  to  stand  in  advance  of  the  general 
wall-face,  and  so  increase  the  shelter.  Now,  my  projecting 
pattern  must  be  roofed-in  within  something  that  slopes  con- 
veniently to  right  and  left  ;  there  must,  moreover,  be  no 
sharp  angles  about  the  projecting  jambs  of  my  shelter,  and 
if  I  can  get  a  semicircular  fan-light  over  my  door  so  much 
the  better." 

As  it  happens,  every  one  of  these  many  conditions  is 
fulfilled,  and  with  scarcely  an  ounce  of  unnecessary  material, 
by  the  severely  Classical  design  which  makes  the  elegant 
doorway  shown  in  illustration  No.  20.  The  ovolo-moulded 
panelling  neatly  clothes  the  jambs  of  the  brick-opening,  the 
columns  provide  a  rounded  surface  at  the  very  spot  where 
angularity  must  be  avoided,  they  also  produce  by  their  pro- 
jection from  the  general  wall-face   the  additional  depth  of 


THE   RELATION  OF  GEORGIAN  ARCHITECTURE    TO   CARPENTRY. 


reveal  required  for  additional  shelter,  and  they  carry  as  their 
crowning-feature  a  Roman  pediment,  whose  lines  present  the 
very  outline  most  convenient  for  discharge  of  rainwater.  As 
a  final  touch  of  convenience  it  will  be  noted  that  the  frag- 
ment of  frieze  and  architrave  between  capital  and  cornice, 
so  far  from  being  a  mere  concession  to  Classical  etiquette, 
offers  just  the  amount  of  extra  height  required  to  make  possi- 
ble the  insertion  of  a  legitimate  semicircular  arch,  which  be- 
sides its  legitimacy  has  the  merit  of  supplying  the  one 
remaining  want  — ■  a  glimmer  of  light  for  the  hall.  The 
useful,  they  say,  is  synonymous  with  the  beautiful.  Here 
is  a  composition  which  fulfils  a  set  of  wants  in  every  par- 
ticular. On  this  account  it  is,  philosophically  speaking,  a 
thing  of  beauty;  but,  besides  being  this,  it  satisfies  the  mi- 
nutest requirements  of  the  Classical  amateur.  It  is,  there- 
fore, doubly  admirable ;    trebly,  I  might  even  say,  for  h  ho 


in  the  case  of  the  Bath  house  is  merely  ornamental,  though 
even  here  one  might  plead  that  the  cornice  protects  the  wall, 
and  that  the  pilasters  which  support  it  are  little  more  than 
the  legitimate  application  of  ornament  to  the  piers  be- 
tween the  windows.  In  the  Devonshire  specimen  the  cornice 
has  an  added  function,  for  it  conveys  across  the  frontage  with 
considerable  aplomb  the  transverse  gutter,  which  would  other- 
wise be  a  serious  disfigurement  of  the  aspect  of  the  house. 
But  my  point  in  thus  offering  these  two  illustrations  is  that 
the  use  of  the  order  and  entablature  which,  in  its  stone  treat- 
ment at  Bath  is  a  perfectly  reasonable,  commonsense,  and 
beautiful  employment  of  an  Italian  motif  evolved  from 
Roman  antiquity,  is  in  its  wooden  development  at  Totnes 
equally  happy,  equally  congruous,  and  equally  true.  It  is, 
in  fact,  still  architecture  and  not  mere  decoration  nor  mere 
archa2ology. 


Fig.  20.     Doorway  at  Newton  Abbott. 


Fig.  21.    Doorway  at  Dartmouth. 


will  deny  its  claim  to  beauty  on  other  and  less  secondary 
grounds. 

To  what  extent  the  genius  of  this  Georgian  architecture 
was  a  timber  genius  may  be  seen  by  comparing  my  examples 
numbered  i8  and  19.  The  latter  represents  a  house  in  Bath, 
the  Ionic  frontage  of  which  is  executed  not  in  wood,  but  in 
the  celebrated  Bath  stone,  but  the  former  —  a  street-house  in 
Totnes  (South  Devon) — is,  I  believe,  erected  entirely 
in  wood.  It  is  a  raiher  curious  fact  that  by  an  accident  of 
selection  both  these  examples  do  violence  to  the  architectural 
canon  that  a  columnar  composition  should  have  as  its  centre 
a  void  and  not  a  solid.  One  is  a  group  of  three  pilasters. 
the  other  one  of  five,  but  in  spite  of  this  fault,  which  to  many 
eyes  is  a  fault  rather  academic  than  real,  it  will  be  owned 
that  both  examples  exhibit  propriety  and  grace.  To  be  quite 
honest  one  must  acknowledge  that  the  order  and  entablature 

'  This  cut,   we   regret   to   say,   lias   been   lost   by   the  plate-maker. 

Plates  6  and  S  of   1' 


Sometimes  the  Classicism  of  a  Georgian  house  is  so  en- 
tirely coextensive  with  its  joinery  that  the  two  seem  almost 
synonymous.  You  may  find  a  house  the  fabric  of  which  is 
mainly  brick,  showing  wherever  it  shows  timber  the  culture 
of  the  Renaissance.  Here  are  two  graceful  eighteenth  cen- 
tury door-heads,  which  illustrate  such  a  tendency,  the  one' 
is  from  Bristol,  the  other  (Fig.  21)  from  Dartmouth.  The 
shell  in  the  former,  which  became  so  favorite  a  feature 
during  the  Georgian  period,  is,  of  course,  no  transcript  of 
antiquity,  but  is  a  development,  and  a  perfectly  reasonable, 
logical  and  suitable  development  from  Classic  and  Renais- 
sance ideas.  It  is  legitimate  design  within  the  limits  and 
under  the  genius  of  the  adopted  style.  The  happy  evolution 
of  such  a  feature  is  the  kind  of  thing  that  serves  to  prove  to 
those  who  balance  inventive  art  against  antiquarian,  that 
architects  can  be  at  one   and   the  same   time  conservative 

but   as   a   substitute   we   will   refer   to   the    shell-hoods   shown    in 
art  VIIl  ante.  —  Kd. 


10 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


and  progressive.     Of  the  corbels  which  support  the  shell-     and  their  inhabitants  are  ready  to  vouch  for  their  warmth  and 
head,  one  might  say  that  they  are  lawful  descendants  of  the      dryness.     How,  it  may  be  asked,  can  architecture  of  this  de- 


Corinthian  niodillion.  The 
modillion's  projection  and 
depth  have  certainly  been 
increased  at  the  expense  of 
its  other  dimension,  but  there 
are  sound  structural  reasons 
for  such  a  change,  and  the  re- 
sult, instead  of  striking  the 
beholder  as  a  travesty  on  an- 
tiquity, appeals  to  him  at  once 
as  being  an  adaptation  of  an 
ancient  feature  to  modern 
needs,  without  loss  of  beauty, 
without  loss  of  the  ciiarms  of 
traditional  association.  The 
Dartmouth  door  (22),  that 
bears  its  date  so  bravely,  is  a 
simpler  thing,  nearer  to  type 
in  some  ways,  farther  from  it 
in  others.  The  use  of  the 
curved  pediment  is,  of  course, 
the  adoption  of  the  variation 
which  the  Italian  architects 
iniroduced;  as  for  the  mould- 
ings, every  one  of  them  has  its 
Classic  ancestor,  but  the 
brackets  or  corbels  are  of  an 
essentially  British  type. 
Brackets  of  closely  similar 
design  are  extremely  common 
all  through  England,  and  their 
origin,  if  one  comes  to  look  for  it,  is  fairly  obvious.  This 
familiar  form  is  nothing  more,  or  less,  than  a  representation 
in  outline  (without  detail)  of  the 
Corinthian  m  o  d  i  1 1  i  o  n ,  including  its 
(oliage.  Under  ordinary  circum- 
stances, it  would  occur  to  most  de- 
signers that  if  the  carving  of  the 
modillion  were  too  expensive  for  his 
present  requirements,  the  natural 
course  would  be  to  use  the  scroll  or 
volute  element  of  the  modillion 
or  truss  without  the  leafage,  but  this 
idea  did  not  satisfy  some  of  the  car- 
penters of  Georgian  England,  who 
preferred  to  cut  out  of  board  a  figure 
which  should  be  capable  of  at  least 
casting  a  shadow  similar  to  the 
grander  article  which  expense  for- 
bade. 

And  now  I  am  brought  to  my  final 
examples,  which  will  show,  certainly 
in  rather  a  humble  way,  how  the 
simplest  form  of  rural  wood-architec- 
ture was  able  to  carry  with  grace  the 
ornaments  and,  to  a  large  extent, 
the  spirit  of  the  gracious  style  of 
which  we  are  treating  here.  In  Fig- 
ures 22  and  23,  one  may  see  English 
wood-construction  of  the  simplest 
type  —  a  building  whose  timber-frame 
is  outwardly  protected  by  clapboards, 
or,  as  we  generally  call  them  in  England,  "weather-boards.' 


Fig.  22.     Doorway  near  Goudhurst,  Kent. 


Fig.  23.    Doorway  at  Dorkinf;, 


scription  lend  itself  without 
incongruity  to  the  assumption 
of  the  Classical  elegancies  of 
Georgian  building-craft?  The 
answer,  I  suppose,  is  found 
even  more  readily  in  American 
Colonial  Architecture  than  in 
the  houses  of  England ;  but 
we  have  our  examples,  too, 
and  the  little  and  unpreten- 
tious dwelling  near  Goud- 
hurst, exhibited  in  Plate  2, 
will  serve  to  give  proof  to  the 
main  argument  of  this  short 
essay,  which  is,  to  express  it 
briefly,  that  the  Classicism  of 
Georgian  architecture,  its  art, 
in  fact,  was  intimately  and 
congenially  associated  with 
wood  as  a  building-material. 
The  Englishman's  love  for 
timber  had  not  always  had 
free  rein.  There  was  a  check 
at  the  end  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  a  sort  of  timber-panic. 
Twice,  at  least,  official  reports 
were  made  to  the  officers  of 
the  Crown  on  the  excessive 
consumption  of  timber  in  the 
Southern  counties  (chiefly  in 
the  iron-mills)  and  it  is  be- 
lieved that  the  regulation  which  followed  this  report  led  to 
the  suppression  of  half-timber  work  in  the  Southern  districts. 
Certain  it  is  that  the  forests  of  Eng- 
land had  been  making,  even  in  tiie 
course  of  a  hundred  years,  alarming 
progress  towards  disappearance,  and 
there  was  thought  to  be  some  ground 
for  the  fear  that  ship-building  might 
be  in  danger.  But  a  century  later, 
these  anxieties  would  seem  to  have 
abated.  Half-timber,  which  gen- 
erally implies  oak,  was,  indeed,  no 
more  ;  brick  was  more  largely  adopted 
as  the  material  of  walls:  but  it  is  a 
fact  that  those  very  districts  of  Sur- 
rey, Kent  and  Sussex,  in  which  the 
wood-panic  had  occurred,  contain 
more  examples  than  most  parts  of 
the  country  of  the  use  of  timber- 
fronts  in  Georgian  work.  Two  new 
causes  may  have  been  already  in 
operation,  the  importation  of  timber 
and  the  disuse  of  the  South-country 
iron-works. 

I  think  that  the  house-carpenter 
has  somehow  lacked  a  poet  to  sing 
his  praises,  and  even  historians  have 
rather  allowed  him  to  be  over- 
shadowed by  the  mysterious  mason. 
There  can  be  little  doubt  that  for 
centuries  the  carpenter  was,  in  Eng- 


land, the  great  transmitter  of  tradition,  the  great  artist  in 
Such  cottages  abound  in  parts  of  Kent  to  the  present  day,      construction,  and  a  contriver  of  so  high  an  order  as  to  merit 


THE  RELATION  OE  GEORGIAN  ARCHITECTURE    TO   CARPENTRY. 


II 


the  name  of  designer.  He  was  a  great  man  in  Gothic 
times  ;  he  was  a  great  man  still  in  Renaissance  and  Geor- 
gian times,  and  whereas  the  mason  undoubtedly  changed  his 
personnel,  occasionally  being  at  one  period  and  another  a 
foreigner,  introduced  to  carry  out  the  new  ideas  from  the 
Continent,  whether  Italian  or  Dutch,  I  expect  that  our  friend 
the  carpenter  must  have  endured  much  less  of  foreign  sub- 
stitution ;  with  the  versatility  of  his  craft  he  lent  himself 


easily  to  the  new  modes  (which  were,  in  truth,  such  old  ones)| 
and  found  with  all  the  joy  of  an  artist  that  these  cymas  and 
ovolos,  flutes  and  astragals  were  the  very  things  his  tools 
were  meant  to  work.  He  was  without  more  ado  at  home  with 
these  bits  of  Rome  and  Greece.  He  worked,  he  prospered, 
and  became  the  backbone  of  Georgian  art. 

Paul  Waterhousk,  F.  R.  1.  B.  A. 


IT  would  be  very  easy  to  show  the  justness  of  Mr.  Water- 
house's  line  of  reasoning  by  a  reference  to  the  work  of 
the  seventeenth-century  carpenter  in  this  country,  for 
some  of  the  still  extant  buildings  built  from  1640  on- 
wards show  unmistakable  evidence  of  the  work  of  English 
carpenters,  who  had,  of  course,  not  yet  felt  the  impulse  of 
the  Classic  movement  of  the  time  of  Anne  and  the  Georges, 
but  merely  followed  on  new  soil  the  traditions  of  English 
carpentry  handed  down  from  the  times  of  the  Gothic  masters 
of  the  art. 

Half-timber  work,  pure  and  simple,  was  probably  little  used  : 
wood  was  at  hand,  but  bricks  were  not,  and  by  the  time 
native  brick-yards  were  in  operation  the  practice  of  all-wood 
construction  had  become  commonly  understood  and  habitual. 
Still,  there  is  a  kind  of  reminiscence  of  half-timbering  in  the 
brick-nogged  wall  so  com- 
monly used  for  the  north 
and  east  walls  of  old  New 
England  houses,  though,  as 
the  outer  face  is  covered 
with  clapboards,  like  the 
other  walls  of  the  house, 
while  the  inner  face  is  con- 
cealed behind  lath  and 
plaster,  the  presence  of 
brickwork  is  no  more  sus- 
pected by  most  observers 
than  it  was  in  the  case  of  the 
Cloth  Hall  at  Newbury, 
mentioned  above. 

In  still  another  particular 
was  English  practice  repeated  in  American  houses,  and 
though  here  no  restricted  site  made  it  desirable  for  a  builder 
to  gain  space  in  the  upper  stories  by  making  them  overhang 
the  walls  of  the  story  below,  yet  the  practice  was  very  gen- 
erally followed,  and  we  have  houses  like  the  Whipple  house,' 
at  Ipswich,  Mass.,  and  the  Waller  house,'-  at  Salem,  for  in- 
stance, where  the  upper  siory  overhangs  the  lower,  more  or 
less.  The  explanation  is,  simply,  that  the  house-builders 
here  followed  the  method  of  framing  —  a  very  logical  method 
—  to  which  they  had  been  habituated  in  England.  It  has 
been  very  common  to  consider  these  overhangs  as  a  recession 
from  and  modification  of  a  custom  tiiat  certainly  did  prevail 
in  the  early  block-houses  and  some  of  the  semi-fortified  dwell- 
ings where  a  considerable  overhang  was  purposely  given  to 
the  upper  story,  so  that  the  door  and  window  openings  in 


old   House,  F.irmington,  tji 


the  lower  walls  might  be  commanded  through  loop-holes  in 
the  projecting  part  of  the  upper  floor.  Many  an  observer, 
haunted  by  a  schoolboy  belief  that  all  overhanging  floors 
were  signs  of  former  Indian  strife,  has  vainly  tried  to  under- 
stand how  loop-holes  cut  in  such  slight  projections  could 
ever  have  commanded  any  savage  standing  close  against  the 
wall  below  :  others,  thinking  themselves  more  intelligent  per- 
haps, saw  in  these  peculiarities  of  construction  only  another 
evidence  of  the  universal  conservatism  of  mankind,  and 
smiled  at  the  seeming  unwillingness  of  the  builders  to  con- 
fess in  their  work  that,  since  Indian  onslaught  was  no  longer 
to  be  feared,  there  was  no  longer  need  to  even  indicate  an 
overhang  which  had  become  abbreviated  by  atrophy.  It 
took  the  patient  examination  that  Messrs.  Isham  and  Brown 
gave    to   the   old   buildings  of   the  seventeenth   century  to 

make  it  quite  plain  that  in 
most  cases  these  overhangs 
had  nothing  to  do  with 
Indian  warfare,  but  were 
simply  and  frankly  the  ex- 
pression of  the  method  of 
framing  employed  by  the 
early  carpenters,  and  Mr. 
Waterhouse,  above,  shows 
clearly  that  these  early 
builders  of  ours  were  not 
inventing  new  methods  of 
framing,  but  simply  follow- 
ing those  which  were  familiar 
to  them  from  their  appren- 
tice days  at  home. 
Although  the  seventeenth-century  buildings  have  not  per- 
haps as  much  architectural  character  as  those  of  the  Georgian 
period  they  are  vastly  interesting  and  picturesque,  and,  for 
one  thing,  afford  an  unrivalled  chance  for  studying  the  effect 
of  roof-lines.  There  are  so  many  ways  in  which  a  study  of 
these  old  buildings  can  be  made  useful  that  it  is  worth  while 
to  give  below  an  incomplete  list  of  seventeenth  century 
buildings  still  extant  in  Massachusetts,  and  a  few  elsewhere, 
compiled  from  sundry  recent  contributions  under  "Notes  and 
(Queries  "  of  the  Boston  Transcript.  We  give  the  list  for 
what  it  is  worth,  having  made  no  attempt  to  \erify  name, 
date  (which  sometimes  differs  from  that  stated  elsewhere  in 
this  work)  or  actual  present  existence  of  the  structures  enum- 
erated. In  all  probability,  many  of  the  buildings  have  only 
their  age  to  recommend  them  to  notice.  —  Ed. 


Ameshury,  Mass. :  — 

Macy  House ■^'54- 

Aiidmer,  Mass. :  — 

Abbott  House \(¥.yo. 

Hradstreet  House.     (io\- ...  16^17. 

Holt  House ■'jyS- 

Ariijii^tott,  Mass. :  — 

I^cke  House.  Abel.  1690  or  17  19. 
Ixjcke  House.  W..  [684  or  1760. 
Russell  House 16S0. 

•See  Vol.  11,  Pan  VII,  pages  73-74 


Ihdfofd.  .Mass. :  — 

Uacon    I  louse 

/>Vr  t-r/y.  .Mass.  :  — 

liaker  House 

C'onaiU  I  louse 

Trask  I  louse 

/>///tv/V(7,  Mass. :  — 

Fletcher  I  louse 

liostOH,  Mass. :  — 

(.'barter  .Street.     No 


..16S2 


.  16S5 
.16— 


Boston,  .Mass. :  — 

Greenougli     Lane    and     Vernon 

riace 1698. 

Hancock   Tavern 1634. 

Mather   House.      Cotton  ...  1677. 
Revere  House.      I'aul 167S. 


A'roo/.'/J/u\  Mass. :  — • 

Asphnvall  House    i6f)0. 

Devotion  House >6 — . 


.  1650. 

,,r.94- 


Sun  Tavern 1690. 

Treniere  I  louse I^'7-t- 

Wells  1 1  ouse 1 660. 

/loiinw.  .Mass. :  — 

15ourne  I  louse 16 — , 

'See  Vol.  II,  Part  VII,  Plale  29. 


Jhirlin^tori,  Mass. :  — 

Cutler  House 1650. 

Keed-Wyman  House    1665. 

Cant(>fidi;t\  Mass. :  — 

Austin  House 1666. 

Bishop's  I'alace.  Linden  Ave. . .  . 
16—, 

Lee  House.    Judge  Joseph  ..1680. 


12 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Chelsea,  J/dss. :  — 

Bellingham  House.      Ciov,  .  1670. 

Cary  House i()6o. 

Pratt  House 1670. 

Chestnut  Hill,  Mass.  :  — 

Hammond  House 1640. 

Kingsbury  1  louse i  700. 

Concord,  Mass. :  — 

Barrett  House.    Col.  James..]    Co. 

Huntllosmer  House i(aSo. 

Tavern 


l-'rami>ti;;ham  Cctttiw  Mass  :  —  Lcxiiii^ton,  Mass. :  — 

Haven  House 1694.         Estabrook  House.     Rev.  B..1693. 

.^,  ^        ,r  Hancock  House 1608. 

iiioucester,  Mass.  :  —  -kx  r,.  ^  f' 

'  Munroe  lavern. . .  .  r675  or  1695. 

Sawyer  House 16 — .        Plummer  House '693. 

Gnenlami,  .V.  IT. :  —  Lo^uell,  Mass. :  — 

Old  Brick  House.     Tlie. .  ..1638.        Clerk  House 1670. 

Guilford,  Conn. :  —  UracutGavin  House i(>-~. 

Garrison-Wliitfield    House.     Old  iMneuhurg,  Mass.:  — 

Stone 1635.        Gushing  House 16 — . 


Newport,  K.  I. :  — 

Arnold's  Mill.     Benedict.  ..  1666. 

Bull  House.     Henry 'f'39- 

Friends  Meeting  House. . .  .  1700. 
North  Andover,  Mass. :  — 

Bradstreet  House (6C7. 

Peabody,  Mass. :  — 

Buxton   House 1680. 

Goodale  House 16 — . 

Needham  House 1665. 

Pope  House 16 . 


The  Corbett  House,  Ipswich,  Mass.    [1635.] 


Danvers,  Mass. :  — 

Clarke  House.     Joseph 

Endicott  House 

Fowler  House 

Harris  House 

Houlton  House 

Jacobs  House 

Jacobs     Witch    House. 


G 


Osburn  House.      Sarah 

Page  House 

Prince  House 

Putnam-Goodhue  House... 
Townsend-Bishop-Nourse  1 

Dedhavi,  Mass. :  — 

Fairbanks  House 

White  House,  Cedar  .^t. . . . 


1650. 
1675. 

i<''34- 
1 650. 
1 650. 
1658. 
eorge 
1650. 
1660. 

1 660. 
1 650. 
louse 
,636. 

1640. 
164CS. 


Haverhill,  Mass.:  — 

Peaslee-Ciairison  House.  .  ..1670. 
Whittier's  liirthplace.  ..'...  i6yo. 

I/inghani,  Mass.  :  — 

Cushing  House 1*^79 

Gay  House.     Parson 1680 

Jacobs  House.  Nicholas. .  1675 
Lincoln  House.  General. .  1650 
Meeting  House.    Old  Ship. .1680 

Ips^iiiieh,  Mass. :  — 

Bond  House '("JS- 

Caldwell  House 1640. 

Dodge  House. 1640. 

Howard-Emerson  House.  .  .  1675. 
Jones  House.     William  ....  1726, 

Norton-Corbett  House 1660. 

.Sutton  House 1642. 


The  Saltonstall  Hou.se, 

Marblehead,  Mass. :  — 

Doak  House ''^75- 

Tucker  House.     ( >1<1 1640. 

Marshfield,  Afass. :  — 

Winslow  House 1642. 

Afedfield,  Mass. :  — 

Clark  House 1680. 

Medford,  Mass. :  — 

Barrack.     Old 1650. 

Cradock  Fort if'34. 

Cradock- Wellington  House 

^(>3(<- 

Melrose,  Mass. :  — 

Eynde  House I'JZS- 

Milton,  Mass. :  — 

Houghton  House 1680, 

Tucker  House '643. 


Ipswich,  Mass.    [1635.] 

Pembroke,  Mass. :  — 

Barker  House.     Old 1640. 

Plymouth,  Mass. :  — 

Do  ten  House 1660. 

Harlow  House 1675. 

Howland-Carver  House.  .  ..1666. 
Morton-Whiting  House.  .  .  .  1667. 

Portsmouth,  N.  //..•  — 

Crowe  Hou.se 1680. 

Jackson  House 1660. 

Quincy,  Mass. :  — 

Adams  House 1681. 

Quincy-Butler  House 1680. 

Revere,  Mass. :  — 

Newgate- Yeaman  House.  . .  1650 


Ti  e  Shedd  House,  lirigluoii,  Mass.    Lif^^o.] 


The  Duardiuan  House,  Saugus,  Mass.    L<7oo  ] 


Dorchester,  Mass .  :  — 

Blake  House 1640. 

Bridgham  Hf)use i^*.35- 

Capen  House.     Barnard.  .  .  1628. 

Clap  House.      Roger 1640. 

Mattapan  Road  House 1690. 

I'ierce   House.      Robert ....  1635. 

Dttxbury,  Mass.  :■ — 

Alden  House.     John 1 

Standish  I  louse.  Myles  .  .  .  i 
PJast  Braintree,  Mass.  :  — 

Wales  House.      ]'".l<ler i 

£ast  Wareham,  Mass.:  — 

Gibbs  I  louse i 


666. 


68 1. 


fps'wich,  Mass. :  — 

Whipple  House ^^35' 

Whittlesey  House 1640. 

Winthrop  House lf'34. 

Kingston,  Mass. :  — 

Bradford  House.      Major.  ..1675. 

Cobl)  House 1640. 

Cushman  House 1680. 

Willett  House 1638. 

Kittery,  Maine :  — 

Bray  House 1660. 

Lexington,  Mass. :  — 

Bowman  House 1649. 

Buckman  Tavern 1690. 


1680. 
16—. 
1675. 


.16 


)52 


Nantucket,  Mass.  :  — 

Coffin  House 

Meader  House.     Hannah 
Paddock  House 

Newbury,  Mass. :  — 

Coffin  House.     Tristram. 

Donahue  House 1640, 

Hale  House 1650 

Ilsley  House 1670 

Noyes  House.     Parson.  .  .  .  1645 

Sexton-Short  House 1700 

Spencer- Pierce  House    1650 

Toppan  House 1670, 

Newcastle,  N.  //. .'  — 

Jaffrey-Albee  House '(J/S 


Roxburv,  Mass.  :  — 

Walker- Williams  House.  .  .  16S0. 
Salem,  Mass. :  — 

Bakery.     Old 1690. 

First  Church 1631. 

Hawthorne's  Birthplace. . . .  1675. 

Pickering  House 1650. 

Shattuck  Witch  House. . .   .1675. 

Turner  House  (of  Seven  Gables) 
i6f)6. 

Waller- Ward  House 1690. 

Williams   Witch  House.     Roger 

1635- 

Salisbury,  Mass. :  — 

Osgood  House 1 646. 


THE  RELATION  OE  GEORGIAN  ARCHITECTURE    TO   CARPENTRY. 


13 


Siiugus,  Mass. :  — 

Hill-Boardmaii  House 1650. 

Old  Ironworks 1643. 

Scituate,  Mass. :  — 

Otis  House r68o. 


Siidl'ury,  Mass. : — ■ 

Walker-Garrison  House.  .  ..1660. 

Wayside  Inn 16S0. 

Swampscott.  Mass. :  — 

Blaney  House 1640. 

Mudge  House 1634- 


wBk    ■■ 

K^..i9 

.^'^^'^J^^^BI 

_•  ■  f- 

Watt:rtowii^  Mass.  :  — 

Brown  House 1 633. 

IVen/iam^  Mass. :  — 

Ober  House 16S0. 

IVi-'st  Britl^eii.hiter,  Mass. :  — 

Keith  House 1662. 


IVinthrop.  Mass.:  — 
Deane  Winthrop  House.  .  ..1649. 

IVobtirn,  Mass. :  — 

Baldwin  House 1681. 

Cutler  House 1690. 


The  Sarah  Osbom  House,  Danvers,  Mass.     [i6g-.]  ^ 


Scituate  Harbor.  Mass. :  — 

Baker  House 1634. 

SomeroilU,  Mass. :  — 

Somerville  Ave.     No.  478.  .  1690. 


Topsjield.,  Mass. :  — 

Andrews  House 1685. 

C'apen-fJarrison  House 1660. 

ll'aba/i,  Mass.  :  — 

Woodward  Homestead 1C86. 


The  George  Jacobs  (Witch)  House,  Danversport,  Mass.    [1690.]  ' 


West7uoo(f^  Mass. :  — 

Colburn  House \Ci^o. 


Winthrop,  Mass.:  — 
Bill  House ... 


,  1650. 


York,  Maine. :  — 

Jail 1653. 

Mackintire  Garrison  House..  1645. 
Moulton  House if'/S- 


Q 


KING    MANOR    HOUSE. 

The  King  Manor 
House,  I'late  16,  now 
owned  by  the  town  of 
Jamaica.  L.  I.,  and 
lea.sed  to  an  a.ssociation 
of  ladies  for  care  and 
preservation,  was  built 
in  1805  l)y  Kufus  Kini; 
as  an  enlari;enient  of 
an  older  portion  fstill 
extant)  liuilt  by  Ames 
Smith  in  1750. 


^tWt" 


5? 

'MiM^/%  'LJ^''' 

fe^ 

l^^^^^*^'- 

p 

iS^^^&rV'^' 

"^ 

'^u^rm^W^^^^    \-^     •''^ 

^ 

Syf^k  jT'-^. 

m 

??  iip  ■  ^^^  _fc  P^H 

n 

'^  ^!^    '  flif^l 

m 

vf.  ■  .^5^'  -       ^^^^HteTHI 

L 

.  ."^^bi^iiH 

^^^^^^Bl£iB£^^4^ . . 

ir*^- 

•    "^^^ 

'      - 

fL'l;     1     ■- 

1 

^^^^ 

•  tJtta 

^^^^ 

TJT'S' 

The  Mills  Ward  House,  Salem,  Mass.' 


c 


WONTICEI.I.O. 

Although  Mr.  Skin- 
ner elsewliere  (page  27) 
gives  the  date  of  Mon- 
ticello  as  1810,  other 
aiitliorities  say  tliat  it 
was  begun  in  1764,  and 
that  when  Mr.  Jeffer.son 
brought  his  brido  home 
to  Monticello  in  1772, 
it  was  to  a  liilly  com- 
pleted house  that  he 
brought  her. 


*  After  photographs  by  hr.iiik  C'misins,  Salem,  Mass. 


Dutch  and  German  Eighteenth-century  Work. 


PROBABLY  more  than  one  person  while  looking  over  The    explanation    is    simple.     The    traveller    voyages    in 

the  two  preceding  papers,  with  their  illustrations,  has  search  of  novelties,  new  impressions;  he  seeks  new  ideas 
wondered  how  it  happened  that  during  his  travels  which,  perhaps,  he  can  transplant,  graft,  prune,  cross  and 
in  Great  Britain  he  never  noticed  how  large  was  the  improve  in  divers  ways.  The  female  eye  is  caught  by, 
number,  and  how  varied  tiie  interest,  of  the  buildings  that,  and  retains  the  memory  of,  unusual  fashions  of  dressing  the 
seemingly,  e  .\  i  s  t 
on  every  hand  de- 
signed in  the  style 
with  which  this 
work  especially 
concerns  itself. 
These  Colonial 
doorways  are  so 
familiarly  agree- 
able at  home  in 
America,  how  was 
it,  then,  that  their 
presence  in  Eng- 
land escaped 
notice.'  How  was 
it  that  houses 
sided  with  clap- 
boards, looking  as 
if  they  had  over- 
night crossed  over 
from  Salem,  were 
passed  by  without 
detection?  We 
never  suspected 
such  structures 
were  to  be  found 
outside  of  this 
country,  yet  Mr. 
Davie  and  his 
camera  have 
found  them,  and 
when  they  are 
brought  before 
the  reader  on  the 
book  page  he  at 
once  recognizes 
that  here  is  some- 
thing novel,  a 
fresh  fact  that  had 
escaped  his  trav- 
eller's note-book 


St.  George's  Clmrcli,  Halifax,  N.  S. 
[1800.] 


hair,  new  shapes 
of  caps,  unusual 
comb  in  ations  of 
colors,  while  the 
male  mind  retains 
memories  of  the 
ridiculously  heavy 
harnesses,  the 
solid  and  un- 
wieldly  vehicles, 
the  unhandy-look- 
ing tools,  and  so 
on.  Of  a  Fifth- 
Avenue  belle  and 
a  Breton  fisher- 
woman  seen  side 
by  s  i  d  e  on  the 
same  beach  in 
Brittany,  the 
woman  traveller 
would  see  and 
retain  the  memory 
of  the  latter  only, 
just  as  the  man, 
though  he  had 
passed  an  Ameri 
can  buggy  and  an 
English  tax-cart 
side  by  side  on 
the  road  to  the 
Derby,  would 
warmly  declare, 
after  reaching 
home,  that  he  had 
seen  no  American 
"rig"  anywhere 
abroad.  In  the 
same  way,  the  ar- 
chitectural travel- 
ler would   recall 


that  here  at  last  is  the  germ  of  the  fa-  the  strange  appearance  of  the  house-fronts  on  the  Continent, 
miliar  wooden  house  of  his  native  land,  the  home  of  his  fore-  with  their  great  unfinished  holes  where  the  casement-windows 
fathers,  who  carried  the  memory  of  it  with  them  in  their  had  swung  open  inwards,  and  would  declare  that  nowhere 
exile,  and  erected  modified  simulacra  of  it  at  the  earliest  did  he  see  a  hung  sash  or  guillotine  window.  Familiarity 
convenient  opportunity.  breeds  contempt,  and  things  contemptible  or  too  famihar 

«4 


DUTCH  AND   GERMAN  EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY    WORK. 


15 


generally  escape  notice,  so  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  that  the 
homelike  structures  of  the  Georgian  period  have  not  attracted 
the  notice  of  American  travellers,  except  perhaps  in  the 
matter  of  Wren's  churches:  they  have  unquestionably  been 
noted  and,  in  cases,  deservedly  admired.  But  Wren's 
churches,  like  Michael  Angelo's  dome,  or  Raphael's  Ma- 
donnas, are  amongst  the  literary  puppets  that  every  writer  is 
expected  to  parade  upon  his  stage  at  the  auspicious  moment, 
and,  consequently,  few  readers  can  escape  knowledge  of  them. 
Presently,  for  the  American  traveller,  much  of  the  quondam 
pleasure  of  the  Continental  tour  will  be  lost  through  the 
process  of  vulgarizing  that  is  going  on  so  fast.  The  glory  of 
the  chateaux  in  the  valley  of  the  Loire  will  wane,  since  what 
novelty  will  they  possess  for  the  traveller  who  winters  in 
North  Carolina,  summers  in  Newport,  spends  the  autumn  at 
Lenox,  and  so  has  become  familiar  with  French  chateaux  — • 
as  bettered  by  the  American  designer  ?  Better  he  knows 
they  are,  since  they  have  electric  elevators,  steam-heat, 
refrigeratingplants  and  other  appliances  of  high-pressure 
American  civilization,  and  so  not  to  be  placed  in  the  same 
category  with  those  homes  of  the  old  French  aristocrat,  with 
their  draughty  rooms  and  their  cold  and  noisy  wooden  floors. 
And   the   traveller 

familiar   with    New  | 

York  will  feel  no 
thrill  before  the 
lordly  palaces  of 
Genoa  and  Rome, 
for  has  he  not  seen 
such  as  they  from 
his  childhood  up  ? 
Even  the  seemingly 
inimitable  flavor  of 
Venice  is  likely  not 
to  be  savored  by  the 
American,  by  and 
by,  who  has  ac- 
quired the  "exposi- 
tion-habit," and  has 
become  accus- 
tomed,  once  a  year 

at  least,  to  loll  at  his  ease  in  the  smooth-going  gondola.  The 
thought  is  more  piteous  than  exasperating,  but  the  outcome 
seems  inevitable,  and  the  traveller  of  the  future  is  likely  to 
follow  the  prescribed  route  in  a  more  discontented  frame  of 
mind  than  now.  But  now,  as  then,  the  traveller  does  not 
note  the  presence  of  familiar  aspects  and  facts,  and  so  it  is 
small  wonder  that  the  illustrations  of  the  preceding  papers 
present  themselves  somewhat  in  the  light  of  a  revelation. 

It  is  rather  a  reversal  of  probabilities  that  a  colonizing 
nation,  whose  youth  are  prone  to  leave  home  at  the  earliest 
opportunity  and  seek  excitement  and  personal  discomfort  in 
every  quarter  of  the  globe,  should  be  the  nation  of  all  others 
which  understands  how  to  make  the  dwelling-places  of  its 
members  look  homelike,  peaceful  and  comfortable.  The 
French  family-feeling  is  much  stronger  than  that  of  the  Eng- 
lish, but  none  would  suspect  it  when  he  contrasts  the 
tawdry  eccentricities  of  the  chateaux  and  maisons  de  campagne 
of  the  well-to  do  upper  middle-class  Frenchman  with  the 
plain  and  simple  country-house  of  an  Englishman  of  the  same 
means  and  rank. 

But,  wanderer  as  he  is  by  nature,  the  Englishman  carries 
with  him  his  home  habits,  and  he  is  as  unwilling  to  house 
himself  in  the  building  of  the  country  he  favors  with  his 
presence  as  he  is  unable  to  believe  he  can  be  personally 
clean  unless  he  carries  with  his   luggage  a  tin  bath-tub  of 


unmistakable  British  make.  The  cities  of  India  and  the 
open  ports  of  the  East  are  sprinkled  with  buildings  of  recent 
date,  all  conceived  in  one  phase  or  another  of  Victorian 
Gothic,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  towns  colonized  by  the 
French  show  how  the  more  artistic  people  have  been  quick 
to  seize  on  and  adapt  the  methods,  materials  and  designs 
native  of  the  soil.  It  is  a  happy  chance  that  the  English 
colonists  who  settled  in  this  country  brought  with  them  memo- 
ries of  Georgian  and  pre-Georgian  buildings,  and  did  not  leave 
home  in  the  time  of  a  Gothic  revival ;  else,  in  place  of  our 
graceful  Colonial  mantelpieces,  with  their  ample  and  useful 
mantel-shelves,  we  might  have  found  in  our  older  dwellings 
fireplaces  as  cheerless  and  useless  for  home  purposes  as 
those  which  Viollet-le-Duc  has  introduced  in  his  restoration 
at  Pierrefonds. 

Wherever  along  our  Eastern  coast  the  Englishmen  settled, 
we  find,  still,  abundant  traces  of  his  presence  in  the  houses 
and  churches  he  erected.  Not  only  are  they  to  be  found,  as 
every  one  knows,  widely  scattered  in  the  original  thirteen 
States,  but  there  are  quite  as  interesting  examples  to  be 
found  in  the  British  Provinces  to  the  north  of  us.  French 
city  as  Quebec  is,  there  is  there  to  be  found  many  an  inter- 
esting example  of 
Georgian  architect- 
ure in  whose  con- 
ception and  execu- 
tion certainly  no 
Frenchman  had  a 
share,  and  so  it  is 
with  other  places 
all  the  way  from 
Halifax  to  Toronto. 
At  the  latter  place 
the  writer  heard 
there  was  an  old 
mansion  of  much 
interest  in  the  Geor- 
gian style,  and  so 
addressed  the  pres- 
ent occupant  for 
particulars  and  per- 
mission to  procure  the  desired  photographs.  In  reply  came 
a  chilling,  and  quite  liritannic,  response  which  declared  that 
it  was  quite  unnecessary  to  take  any  trouble  in  the  matter,  as 
the  structure  was  merely  a  simple  English  house  of  brick  with 
a  pillared  porch  or  two.  As  the  real  point  of  interest  lay  in 
the  fact  that  a  "  simple  English  house  "  should  have  been 
built  of  brick  as  far  west  as  that  —  quite  on  the  outskirts  of 
civilization  —  a  hundred  years  ago,  such  a  response  coming 
from  any  one  would  have  been  exasperating,  but  it  was  all 
the  more  so  since  the  owner  was  a  well-known  man  of  letters 
who  might  have  been  expected  to  appreciate  the  purpose  of 
the  inquiry.  Still,  as  the  statement  was  made  that  the  house 
had  been  altered  within  recent  years,  it  did  not  seem  worth 
while  to  press  further  an  evidently  unwilling  householder. 
But  there,  beyond  the  source  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  was  built 
shortly  after  the  Revolution,  and  possibly  with  imported 
brick,  a  "simple  English  house"  in  the  Georgian  style. 

The  earliest  architectural  efforts  made  by  the  first  settlers 
in  the  British  Province  were  doubtless  similar  to  those 
made  in  the  more  southerly  settlements,  save  that  the  greater 
ri-'or  of  the  climate  demanded  more  substantial  buildings  ; 
but  by  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  all,  or  nearly  all, 
of  the  structures  reared  by  the  early  settlers  had  probably 
passed  away,  and  the  architecture  of  the  time  was  affected 
by  the  same   influences  that  created   the  meeting-house  of 


Tlie  Government  House,  Halifax,  N.  S.    [1801-5.] 


i6 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


New  England  and  the  mansion  of  the  Virginia  gentleman. 
But,  though  English  influence  in  a  seaport  town  was,  of 
course,  strong,  and  though  Halifax  was  within  the  radius 
of  the  influence  that  radiated  from  the  French  settlements, 
there  were  other  influences  at  work  there,  other  bands  of 
settlers  had  come  from  other  lands  than  France  and  England 
and  left  traces  of  their  presence,  both  in  the  admixture  of 
blood  and  customs  and  in  the  buildings  they  erected,  more 
suo.  Thus,  there  are  at  Halifax  two  very  interesting  eccle- 
siastical structures,  one  of  whicii  avowedly,  and  the  other 
inferentially,  bears  testimony  to  the  early  date  at  which  the 
common  people  of  this  northern  continent  began  to  be 
evolved  by  a  species  of  ethnical  cross-breeding  which  has  no 
parallel  in  the  world's  history.  Even  the  great  Roman 
Empire  only  succeeded  in  producing  a  sort  of  effeminate 
hybrid,  a  human  mule,  unable  to  perpetuate  its  own  species. 

Here    at  Halifax  is  a  little  Dutch  church    built  in   1755, 
about  as  simple  a  little  structure  as  could  well  be  devised  ; 


fatherland  as  they  best  could  remember  and  interpret  them. 

This  little  church  received  a  Government  grant,  probably 
quite  as  minute  as  its  own  size,  the  rest  of  the  building-fund 
being  contributed  by  members  of  the  congregation  who 
worshipped  here,  after  the  tenets  of  the  Lutheran  Church, 
until  circumstances  led  to  amalgamation  of  this  society  and 
another.  Since  that  time  the  building  has  been  in  use  as  a 
school,  no  gteat  change  of  course,  for,  in  all  probability,  the 
early  churches  or  meeting-houses  were  in  most  cases  used  as 
schoolhouses  on  workdays. 

The  society  which  received  the  adhesion  of  the  members 
of  the  old  Dutch  Lutheran  Church  is,  curiously  enough,  one 
which  has  always  abided  by  the  prescriptions  of  the  thirty- 
nine  articles  of  the  Established  Church  of  England,  and  this 
may  be  taken  as  showing  how  the  pietistic  fervor  of  the  Lu- 
theran fathers  had,  in  a  couple  of  generations,  become  amelio- 
rated in  their  grandsons.  Architecturally  speaking,  there  is 
no  other  church  in  Halifax  to  which  the  owners  of  the  Old 


Old  Diitcli  Cliiircli,  Halifax,  N.  S. 
['755-] 

its  parts  so  simple  and  so  obviously  arranged  that  it  would 
seem  quite  unlikely  that  they  could  tell  much  of  an  archi- 
tectural story  or  say  with  much  distinctness  that  the  struct- 
ure was  devised  by  other  than  FInglish  minds.  Yet,  the  low 
wall,  the  wide  roof,  the  door  and  window  heads  hard  against 
the  wall-plate,  the  door  at  one  end  of  the  long  side,  not 
in  the  middle  of  the  gable  end,  and,  above  all,  the  spire  on 
the  low  tower,  with  its  almost  flat  broaches,  tell  the  observer 
unmistakably  that  the  building  is  of  German  or  Dutch  deri- 
vation. And  so  it  is,  but  whether  the  one  or  the  other, 
whether  built  by  some  streamlet  from  the  great  German 
immigration  that  had  accidentally  been  deflected  northward 
from  its  true  course,  or  whether  some  band  of  real  Dutch- 
men, trying  to  return  home  after  the  English  had  dislodged 
them  from  New  Amsterdam,  had  been  disheartened,  or, 
being  wind-bound  by  adverse  winds,  had  put  in  to  what  was 
to  be  Halifax,  and,  being  satisfied,  had  there  remained,  is 
not  material.  The  really  interesting  fact  is  that  at  the  very 
same  time  that  buildings  designed  in  the  Georgian  style 
were  being  erected  in  different  parts  of  America  there  were 
being  built  in  different  places  by  immigrants  of  Teutonic 
stock,  or  those  immigrants'  descendants,  other  structures  that 
distinctly  recall   the  elements  of  the   architecture  of  their 


iNewakk,  N.  J.,  Chukchus.  —  There  are  other  parts  of  the 
eastern  sealioard  than  New  England  that  can  boast  of  jjraceful 
church  spires,  and  in  Newark,  N.  J.,  the  spires  of  the  Old  First 
Presljyterian  Churcli  and  Trinity  Church  (Plate  23,  I'art  I.\)  show- 
that  the  traditions  of  rutinement  and  -jjood  i)ro]50rtion  were  not  fol- 
lowed only  ill  New  ICnj^land  —  thougli  tlie  designers  were  not  over 


A 

Mm 

' 

^^  ffrt 

piKiHi«f!r 

-  ^  ■  n 

-^--^IfK 

St.  Paul's  Church,  Halifax,  N.  S. 

[.75-.] 

Dutch  Church  could,  with  so  much  propriety,  have  migrated 
as  to  St.  George's,  a  church  of  a  very  unusual  type,  a  dis- 
tinctly un-English  type,  a  North  German  or,  more  nearly,  a 
Scandinavian  type,  and  it  may  be  a  freak  of  real  atavism 
that  drew  the  migrating  Lutherans  to  this  curious  and  in- 
teresting structure.  But  the  warmest  supporters  of  the 
claims  of  Lief  Ericson  would  hardly  dare  to  found  an  argu- 
ment in  favor  of  the  Scandinavian  as  the  original  discoverer 
of  this  continent  on  the  architectural  character  of  St.  George's, 
for  the  structure  itself  was  built  as  late  as  1800,  and  if  it 
replaced  an  earlier  structure,  on  a  larger  scale  while  maintain- 
ing its  essential  features,  we  do  not  know  that  it  is  so. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  a  very  large  structure,  since  it  will  hold 
a  congregation  of  two  thousand  persons,  is,  so  far  as  the 
actual  beginning  of  its  being  is  concerned,  really  an  older 
structure  than  St.  George's  or  the  Old  Dutch  Church,  and, 
as  it  was  begun  only  a  year  or  two  after  the  arrival  of 
Governor  Cornwallis  with  his  original  band  of  settlers  actu- 
ally in  1750,  —  about  the  time  the  beautiful  tower  and  spire'  of 
the  church  at  Farmington,  Conn.,  was  finished, — one  might 
hope  to  find  some  evidence  of  kinship  between  it  and  some 
of  the  more  interesting  of  the  New  England  meeting-houses, 
all  the  more  from  the  fact   that    St.    Paul's  was  framed  in 

happy  in  uniting  the  wooden  spires  with  the  stone  towers.  The 
Presbyterian  Church,  erected  in  1774  by  a  society  then  more  than 
one  hundred  years  old,  was  much  injured  by  fire  a  couple  of  years 
ago.  Trinity  Churcli,  built  later  (1.S05).  is  interesting  not  only  by 
reason  of  its  spire,  but  because  the  designer  seems  not  to  have  hesi- 
tated to  use  pointed  and  full-centred  arches  in  the  same  building. 


DUTCH  AXD   GERMAN  EIGFITEEXTH-CENTURY    WORK. 


17 


Boston.  Perhaps  Boston,  having  in  this  way  aided  in  pro- 
moting godliness  amongst  the  progenitors  of  the  "blue 
noses,"  found  there  was  nothing  particularly  ungodly  in  ap- 
propriating, without  payment,  at  a  later  day  the  timbers  out 
of  which  were  worked  the  columns  of  the  portico  of  the 
Massachusetts  State-house.  But,  as  the  illustration  shows, 
St.  Paul's  was  built  rather  to  accommodate  the  troops  in 
garrison  than  to  give  expression  to  architectural  beauty,  and 
its  tower,  while  in- 
dividual enough,  is 
neither  graceful  nor 
interesting.  More- 
over, the  entire  ex- 
terior of  the  build- 
ing was  palpably 
restored  at  the  time 
the  low  side  aisles 
were  added,  not 
many  years  ago. 
In  the  same  way, 
the  tower  of  the  Old 
Town  Clock,  as  it 
is  called,  which 
dates  from  about 
the  same  time,  has 
none  of  the  refine- 
ment of  the  best 
New  England  work 
of  the  time,  and,  as 

it  too  has  been  "restored,"  it  is  questionable  whether  the  cir- 
cular peristyle  is  or  is  not  part  of  the  original  design. 

All  of  the  buildings  thus  far  mentioned  are  of  wood,  but 
wood  used  in  a  rather  commonplace  way,  and  handled 
evidently  by  workmen  who  had  not  access  to  any  of  the 
"  Builder  s  Assistants"  which  unquestionably  enabled  ilie  me- 
chanics of  New  England  to  turn  out  work  of  greater  delicacy, 


interesting  buildings:  one,  the  Admiralty  House,  a  simple 
but  dignified  square  structure  with  low-pitched  hip-roof,  is 
evidently  later  in  date  than  the  others,  which,  like  it,  are 
public  structures,  and  so  had  the  benefit  of  the  best  archi- 
tectural talent.  Of  these  two,  the  Government  House,  the 
official  residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor,  is  an  extremely 
well-proportioned  building  characterized  by  slightly  project- 
ing flanking  pavilions  which  recall  the  arrangement  of  the 

typical  houses  of 
Colonial  Virginia 
and,  further,  are 
characterized  by 
"  swell  fronts" 
upon  each  pavilion, 
quite  after  the  Bos- 
ton manner.  In 
fact,  the  official 
residences  of  the 
time  are  particu- 
larly happy  in  their 
architectural  effect, 
if  it  is  fair  to  base 
such  an  opinion 
upon  this  building 
and  the  almost 
equally  interestirg 
Government  House 
at  Fredericton, 
N.  B.  The  Halifax 
building  was  erected  in  the  years  1801-5.  The  other  Hali- 
fax building,  e\en  more  admirable,  is  the  Province  Building, 
which  was  erected  in  1811-19  at  a  cost  of  a  little  over  two 
hundred  thousand  dollars. 

The  one  building  in  Halifax,  however,  of  strikingly  foreign 
aspect  is  unquestionably  the  Old  Dutch  Church,  and  in  this 
case  we  do  not  feel  called  on  to  question  the  propriety  of  the 


The  Old  Town  Clock,  Halifax,  N.  S. 


The  Old  Government  House,  Fredericton,  N.  B. 
[.S2S.] 

interest  and  refinement  than  did  the  mechanics  to  the  south  or 
to  the  north  of  them.  In  stone,  however,  the  builders  suc- 
ceeded better  in  giving  to  their  work  the  architectural  char- 
acter of  the  period,  and  in  Halifax  there  are  two  or  three 


The  Province  IJuildin'^,  Halifax,  N.  S* 

[iS.i-ly] 


iThe  V'anoknhf.uvkl  Holsk,  Nkw  NOuk,  N.  Y.  —  The 
custom  of  importing  Iniildinji-matcrials  in  early  days  was  not  con- 
fined to  Knglish  descendants  and  lui^land.  In  fact,  we  know  that 
Washington  imported  some  of  the  nuUerials  and  fittings  used  at 
Mount  Vernon  from  the  Continent,  and  the  fre(|ueiicy  witli  whicli 
the  blue  Uutch  tile  and  the  Dutch  scenic  wall-paper  are  encountered 
shows  that  Holland  was  also  a  considerable  source  of  supply. 
Perhaps,  too.  the  use  of  the  l-'leniisli  bond  in  the  early  brickwork 
may  be  adduced  as  a  possiljle  jjroof  tluit  not  only  bricks  but  brick- 


attribution.  But  as  much  cannot  be  said  for  the  many  other 
"  Dutch"  structures'  that  can  be  found  in  various  parts  of 
the  country,  for,  in  many  a  case,  the  term  must  be  translated 
as  one  to-day  translates  the   term    "Pennsylvania   Dutch," 


layers  were  of  Dutch  extraction.  Be  this  as  it  may,  there  is  record 
that  when,  in  1759,  Cornelias  Vandenheuvel,  <|uondani  (iovernor 
of  Demerara,  decided  to  build  a  hou.se  on  the  Hlooniingdale  Road 
near  New  York  City,  he  imported  from  Holland  all  the  material 
used  in  its  construction.  Tliis  house,  later  known  as  Wade's 
Tavern,  a  famous  road-house  in  its  day.  still  stands,  though  nnicli 
changed  outwardly,  the  original  roof,  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  fifties, 
l)einsj  replaced  with  a  third  story  in  wood,  with  a  Hat  roof,  ill  ac- 
cording with  the  stone  walls  below. 


i8 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


and  remember  that  it  more  often  means  German,  or  even 
Swedish,  than  Netlierlandish.  We  have  been  greatly  dis- 
appointed at  not  being  able  to  produce  any  tangible  evidence 
of  the  influence  the  Dutch  fashions  of  building  had  upon  the 
work  of  the  Georgian  designers  and  builders  in  this  country, 
and  we  are  inclined  to  feel  that  such  influence  as  was  exerted 
was  not  direct,  but  sifted  first  through  England.  The  inde- 
finable Dutch  feeling  that  can  be  perceived  in  some  of  the 


scattered  places.  But  as  it  was  William  Penn  who  was 
largely  responsible  for  this  remarkable  immigration,  first 
through  his  exhortations  to  the  sectaries  when  as  a  young 
man  he  wandered  through  Germany,  and  later,  after  he 
became  a  "proprietor,"  through  the  pamphlets,  descriptive  of 
the  Province  of  Pennsylvania  and  how  there  was  to  be  found 
there  freedom  from  war,  religious  persecution  and  the  op- 
pressiveness of  unjust  laws,  which  in  French,  Dutch,  English 


Moravian  Buildings,  I'.ethlehem,  Pa. 
[Till;-  (Iniwinu.  (combined  from  three  different  pIioto;,'rapli8,  is  faulty  in  pcrsprctive.] 


towers  and  spires  of  the  New  England  meeting-houses  evi- 
dently has  no  distinct  prototype  in  Holland,  but  is  unques- 
tionably based  upon  Wren's  working  out  of  his  impressions  of 
his  own  travels  in  Holland.  In  like  manner,  when  in  some 
of  the  small  brick  churches  and  court-houses  in  the  South 
one  feels  that  at  last  he  has  found  unmistakably  the  con- 
necting-link, it  is  pretty  certain  that  the  next  turning-over 
of  the  records  of  English  work  of  the  time  will  bring  to  light 
some  market-house  or  petty  assize-court,  which,  though 
Dutch  in  feeling,  is  much  more  likely  to  be  the  real  proto- 
type of  the  American  example.  There  is  many  a  village 
street  in  England  fronted  with  low  brick  buildings  which 
gives  the  traveller  the  momentary  impression  that  he  is  back 
again  in  Holland,  but  when  he  looks  about  and  strives  to 
localize  the  impression  it  eludes  him.  He  feels  sure  the 
impression  must  have  its  justification,  but  how  or  with  what 
he  can  support  it,  he  finds  it  impossible  to  say.  So  we  are 
inclined  to  think  that,  aside  from  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood of  New  York,  the  work  of  the  Hollander  had  little 
direct  influence  on  the  building  done  in  this  country  during 
the  eighteenth  century,  and  this  is  all  the  more  disappoint- 
ing since  one  of  the  myths  relating  to  the  gambrel-roof  is 
that  it  was  derived  from  Holland.  Perhaps  it  was,  but  we 
hope  it  was  not ;  for  if  there  is  any  feature  that  is  distinctive 
of  American  work  it  is  the  ganibrel-rcof,  and  one  would  like 
to  feel  that  it  was  evolved  in  this  country  out  of  the  sheer 
constructive  necessities  of  the  early  builders. 

If  the  changes  of  more  than  two  centuries  have  left  on  and 
near  Manhattan  Island,  where  alone  it  could  properly  be 
sought  for,  few  traces  of  real  Dutch  work,  it  is  far  otherwise 
with  the  "  Dutch  "  work  that  is  properly  to  be  credited  to  the 
Teuton  of  northern  and  southern  Germany,  and  as  stream- 
lets of  the  great  German  immigration  filtered  to  all  parts  of 
the  Atlantic  seaboard  from  Maine  to  Georgia,  evidences 
of  the  half-remembered  architectural  fashions  of  the  German 
fatherland   are   to   be  found   to   this   day   in    many   widely 

Bkthlemem.  —  Althouu'li  Bethlehem  w;is  founded  in  1741  by 
Bishop  Nitschmann  of  tlie  Moravian  Chiireli,  its  name  was  given 
by  Count  Zinzendorf  wlien,  some  years  later,  he  visited  the  country 
to  look  after  the  well-beini,'  of  the  settlers  whose  emi<;ration  had 
been  promoted  by  himself  and  his  wife   Kdmutb   Dorothea.     The 


and  German  he  sent  broadcast  through  Europe,  it  was 
natural  that  the  largest  number  of  these  immigrants  should 
fettle  in  Pennsylvania.  It  is  not  our  part  to  explain  how  and 
why  these  immigrants,  wearied  with  the  constant  bloodshed 
of  the  War  of  the  Spanish  Succession,  and  still  more  wearied 
by  the  poverty  forced  upon  them  because  of  it,  and  subjected 
to  heavy  taxation  everywhere,  while  in  some  states  under 
Catholic  rule  the  believers  in  the  new  creeds  —  and  there 
were  many  varieties  —  were  oppressed  and  persecuted  to  an 
unendurable  degree,  were  ready  to  abandon  their  homes  and 
risk  the  perils  of  a  long  journey  to  an  unknown  and  unde- 
veloped country.  Nor  is  it  our  part  to  dilate  on  the  dismal 
tale  of  their  journeyings :  how  many  fell  by  the  way  in  their 
tramp  across  Europe  ;  how  more  were  unable  to  get  farther 
than  England,  and  there  remained  to  the  number  of  thou- 
sands, a  charge  upon  the  Government  and  charitable  private 
individuals;  how  those  who  crossed  the  sea  endured  in  the 
small  vessels  of  the  day,  ill-found  and  half-provisioned,  treat- 
ment from  brutal  shipmasters  that  puts  tales  of  the  "  middle 
passage"  to  shame  —  on  one  ship  sailing  in  1732  with  150 
passengers  100  of  them  died  during  the  passage,  and  in  1758, 
out  of  the  passengers  carried  during  that  year  in  fifteen  ships 
2,000  died,  while  in  another  ship  that  carried  312  passengers 
250  died  during  the  voyage.  But  this  terrible  mortality  pre- 
vailed mainly  in  the  time  when  the  "  Newlanders  "  had  built 
up  their  nefarious  traffic,  which  resulted  essentially  in  land- 
ing the  immigrants  —  such  as  survived  —  in  this  country  as 
actual  slaves  to  those  who  paid  their  passage-money,  whether 
before  they  started  or  after  they  arrived.  Immigrants  thus 
enslaved  or  mortgaged  became  known  as  "  Redemptioners," 
and  they  were  held  in  bondage  under  the  formal  precepts  of 
enacted  law  until  by  their  labor  they  could  pay  oflf  their  debts, 
and  their  masters  took  uncommon  care  that  this  task  should 
be  made  none  too  easy  for  them. 

The  movement  —  a  very  large  and  long-continued  one  — 
is  one  of  the  extremely  interesting  events  in  our  early  history, 

Genieinhaus.  the  residence  of  ministers  and  missionaries,  built  in 
I  742,  is  the  oldest  structure  in  the  town.  It  is  built  of  logs,  which 
since  iS6,S  have  been  covered  with  weather-boards;  but  until  that 
time  the  walls  were  protected  on  the  outside  with  stucco  apphea 
over  split-oak  laths. 


DUTCH  AND   GERMAN  EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY   WORK. 


19 


and  because  of  the  wide  distribution  of  the  arrivals,  partly 
by  accident  and  partly  by  design —  Penn  was  not  the  only 
land-owner  to  profit  by  this  German  aspiration  for  a  free  and 
peaceful  life  —  it  made  a  vast  impression  on  the  country, 
and  has  left  traces  in  many  places  besides  Pennsylvania, 
traces  which  con- 
sist largely  in  place- 
names  and  family- 
names,  in  a  diluted 
strain  of  German 
blood  and  tempera- 
ment and  some- 
thing in  the  way  of 
buildings.  No 
trace  now  remains 
of  the  L  a  b  a  d  i  s  t 
settlement  at  Bo- 
hemia Manor  in 
Maryland,  on  the 
Chesapeake,  and 
the  same,  we  be- 
lieve, can  be  said 
of  the  Lutheran 
settlement  at  Wal- 
doboro.  Me. ;  b  u  t 
the  settlement  at 
Quincy,  Mass.,  has 


The  Gemeintiaus,  Bethlehem,  Pa. 
[1742-] 


the  Redemption ist  movement  was  not  reached  till  1753,  it  is 
plainly  possible  that  there  should  be  many  buildings  still 
standing  in  Pennsylvania  that  owe  their  being  to  the  hands 
of  actual  German  immigrants  and  not  to  their  descendants  of 
the  next  generation.     In  Philadelphia  itself  one  should  not 

expect  to  find  much 
work  of  German 
feeling,  for  Piiila- 
delphia  was  the 
home  of  Quakers, 
men  of  peace,  men, 
moreover,  of  con- 
siderable worldly 
wisdom,  and  they 
brought  it  about 
that  as  fast  as  the 
Germans  arrived 
they  should  be  for- 
warded to  the  in- 
terior and  made  to 
found  settlements 
along  the  frontier, 
where,  as  many  of 
them  had  borne 
arms  at  home,  their 
knowledge  of  mili- 
tary  a  ff  a  i  r  s    and 


at  least  left  a  name,  for  that  part  of  the  town  where  the  Sail- 
ors' Snug  Harbor  lies  is  still  styled  Germantown.  Charleston 
and  Savannah  were  the  recipients  of  many  Germans,  but  their 
chief  foothold  in  South  Carolina  was  at  Ebenezer,  Orange- 
burg, and  Saxe-Gotha.  In  Virginia,  Winchester,  Shepherds- 
town,  Strasburg  and  Woodstock  are  likely  to  afford  evidence 
of  the  presence  of  early  German  inhabitants,  and  there  were 
many  settlements  made  in  North  Carolina  by  Germans  who 
did  not  find  in  Pennsylvania  the  opportunities  they  sought. 

It  is  in  Pennsylvania,  however,  that  is  to  be  found  more 
evidence  of  the  German  immigration  than  elsewhere,  and  as 


willingness  to  defend  their  heads  with  their  hands  made  them 
an  admirable  vanguard  of  civilization,  and  at  the  same  time 
a  safeguard  for  the  peaceable  Quakers  in  Philadelphia.  And 
right  valiantly  did  these  German  frontiersmen  play  their  part, 
not  only  in  Indian  warfare  and  at  the  siege  of  Quebec,  but  in 
the  Revolution.  So  it  is  that  one  must  seek  in  Lancaster, 
Ephrata,  Bethlehem,  Lititz,  Easton,  Allentown,  Reading  and 
the  country  between  for  early  indications  of  German  occupa- 
tion. But  the  Germans  were  so  many — -Franklin  estimating 
their  number  at  three-fifths  of  the  entire  population  of  the  State 
and  other  authorities  declaring  a  higher  ratio  —  and  so  widely 


The  Moravian  Church.   Belhlehem,  Pa. 
[,So3.] 

the  first  settlement  was  made  at  Germantown,  that  suburb  of 
Philadelphia  is  still  rich  in  a  kind  of  derived  German  feeling. 
How  many  buildings  there  still  are  positively  erected  by  the 
German  immigrants  we  will  not  attempt  to  say,  but  as 
the  great  German  movement  —  although  Pastorius  bought 
his  land  in  Germantown  in  1683— did  not  begin  till  1709, 
and  reached  its  flood  only  in  1738,  while  the  high-tide  mark  of 


The  Old  Chapel,   Bethlehem,  Pa. 

1'7S'-1 

scattered  that  not  only  there  are  many  buildings  of  unques- 
tionable German  origin  still  standing  all  over  the  State,  but 
they  have  had  such  an  influence  on  the  commonly  adopted 
style  of  building  that  Pennsylvania  buildings  have  an  air  of 
their  own,  quite  different  from  that  to  be  found  in  other  States 
—  plain,  substantial,  broad  and  big-roofed,  and  more  often  of 
stone  than  of  brick,  the  stonework  as  often  stuccoed  as  not. 


20 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


As  the  German   immigration  was  largely  a  movement  of  towns  the  "passing-bell"  is  tolled   in   the  church-lower  as 

the  sectaries  who  held  varied  forms  of  belief  and  followed  the  weary  soul  has  just  taken  its  flight,  the  same  function  is 

ditlerent  practices,  it  was  natural  that  each  sect  should  es-  at  IJethlehem  discharged  by  official  trombone-players,  four  in 

tablish  an  independent  settlement,  some  so  small  that  they  number,  whose  duty  it  is  to  ascend  to  the  tower  of  the  church 


quickly  passed  out  of  existence,  while 
others  lingered  longer,  until  the  follow- 
ing generations,  unable  to  stand  the 
pressure  of  modern  civilization,  aban- 
doned the  seclusion  of  their  fathers, 
foreswore  their  beliefs  in  a  measure,  and 
became  everyday  American  citizens. 
And  so,  one  after  another,  many  of  the 
different  communal  settlements  changed 
their  character,  and  the  communal  build- 
ings were  devoted  to  alien  uses;  but 
some  still  exist,  as  at  Ephrata,  which  are 
measurably  devoted  to  their  original 
purposes;  while  other  communities,  as 
Bethlehem  for  instance,  have  known 
how  to  retain  in  a  considerable  degree 
traditions  and  practices,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  so  modify  and  adapt  them  to  the 
ideas  of  the  time  as  to  make  their  in- 
herited practices  a  sort  of  drawing-card 
to  attract  at  certain  seasons  a  consider- 
able concourse  of  strangers,  whose  com- 
ing is  a  material  help  to  the  town.  The 
choral  festival  at  Bethlehem  is  a  musical 
performance  of  the  first  rank,  but  though 
its  roots  run   far  back,  and  though  its 


Belfry  of  the  Moravian  Church,  Bethlehem,  Pa. 


and  there  blow  to  the  four  quarters  of 
the  town  the  news  that  brother  or  sister, 
maid,  man  or  widow  lies  a-dying,  the 
age,  sex  and  marital  condition  of  the  de- 
parting being  indicated  by  the  choral 
that  is  played.  This  custom  brings  it 
about  that  the  church-tower  must  be 
provided  with  a  platform  or  gallery, 
around  which  the  players  can  pass,  and 
from  which  they  can  blow  their  mournful 
messages. 

The  Moravians'  of  Bethlehem,  while 
retaining  their  creed  and  racial  relations, 
have  advanced  with  the  times  and  known 
how  not  to  fall  behind  the  chariot  of  pro- 
gress, and  so  have  been  able  to  keep 
their  buildings  in  good  repair,  and  they 
form  a  very  interesting  group  indeed  : 
the  big  Moravian  Church,  built  in  1803  ; 
the  First  Seminary,  built  in  1746,  flanked 
on  one  side  of  the  open  courtyard  that 
fronts  it  by  the  Second  Clergy  House 
that  was  built  four  years  earlier,  and  on 
the  other  side  by  the  Sisters'  House, 
built  in  the  same  year,  are  worth  going 
some  distance  to  see  in  this  country  be. 


renderings  are  not  light-minded  at  all,  yet  the  choruses  are  cause  of  their  distinctly  foreign  flavor.  The  Old  Chapel, 
drilled  by  hired  choir-masters,  as  any  mere  secular  and  with  its  big  inclined  buttresses,  built  in  1751,  the  Widow's 
money-making  choir  might  be.  The  Bach  festival  last  year  house,  built  in  1768,  and  the  Gemeinhaus,  oldest  of  all,  built 
was  a  very  notable  performance,  and  was  but  the  latest  in  1742,  together  with  others  belonging  to  the  original  corn- 
overt  manifestation  of  that  love  of  music  which  the  original  munity,  form  a  curious  contrast  to  the  great  industrial  plant 
settlers  brought  with  them,  which  has  persisted  in  varying  in  the  once  quiet  township  which  now  turns  out  armor-plate 
forms  until  now,  but  always  as  a  notable  characteristic  of  and  great  guns, 
the  people  and  the  place.     One  of  these  manifestations  is  The   distinctively   German   origin    of    these    buildings    is 


found  in  the  playing 
of  trombones  —  and 
it  is  said  that  skilful 
players  make  trom- 
bones very  effective 
musical  instru- 
ments. In  some 
New  England 
churches,  and  pos- 
sibly in  more  Eng- 
lish churches,  the 
bass-viol  is  still 
used  in  lieu  of  the 
organ  to  give  a 
background  for 
choral  or  congre- 
gational singing, 
and  travellers  know 
how  in  some  foreign 
churches  trumpets, 
bugles  a  n  d  trom- 
bones are  used  for 


The  General  Knox  Headquarters,  Newburgh,  N.  Y. 


found  proved  in  the 
double  ranges  of 
dormers  in  the  great 
roofs,  and  this  Ger- 
man fashion  of  util- 
izing this  roof-space 
for  dwelling  pur- 
poses finds  a  curi- 
ous echo,  though  a 
small  one,  in  the 
Headquarters  of 
General  Knox  at 
Newburgh,  N.  Y., 
where  in  the  print 
showing  the  rear 
view  there  can  be 
seen,  snuggled  up 
against  the  chim- 
neys, and  running 
back  to  the  house- 
ridge  itself,  two 
minute    dormers. 


the  same  purpose.  But  at  Bethlehem  the  trombone  is  par  The  Knox  house  is  called  Dutch,  but  these  little  dormers 
excellence Xht  instrument,  and  its  use,  or  rather  one  of  its  uses,  make  us  suspect  that  its  Dutchiness  has  a  Pennsylvania  strain 
has  had  a  curious  efifect  on  architecture.     Just  as  in  some     in  it  somewhere. 


1  MOKAVIAN  Sktti.kmkni  s.  —  liethleheiii  was  settled  in  1 741  ;  ensthal,  1 750.  The  Harony  of  Nazareth  was  sold  by  the  Penns  to 
Ephrata  in  1743;  Old  Xazaretli  in  1743  (Nazareth  Hall  rates  Kdnnith  Dorothea,  Countess  of  Zinzendorf,  who  greatly  assisted 
from   1755;;    f'nadenthal,   1745;    Christian   .Spring,   1 74S ;    Fried-      the  emigrating  Moravian  sectaries. 


DUTCH  AND   GERMAN  EIGHTEENTH-CENTUR  V    WORK. 


21 


Very  different  iii  character,  indeed,  from  the  Moravian  threatening  to  fall,  and  some  one  was  artist  enough  to  ac- 
Church  at  Bethlehem  is  the  "Old  Trappe"  Church'  at  complish  his  task  in  this  very  satisfactory  manner.  The 
Collegeville,  dedicated  in  1745.  It  is  unmistakably  of  a  interior  is  less  changed  than  the  exterior,  and  the  general 
German  type,  and  yet  the  gambrel  roof,  the  general  roof-plan  effect  at  least  is  the  same  that  communicants  in  the  early 
being  also  similar,  recalls  the  Dutch  church-  at  Sleepy  Hoi-  part  of  the  eighteenth  century  had  before  them  as  they  sat 
low,  in  Tarrytown,  N.Y.,  built,  so  it  is  said,  in  168-,  and  sug-  in  the  high-backed  pews  and  lifted  their  chilled  feet,  now 
gests  the  reflection  that  Americans,  outside  of  Pennsylvania  and  then,  from  the  brick-tiled  floor,  still  in  place.  This 
at  least,  have  not  had  much  use  for  German  architecture,  church,  the  "Gloria  Dei"  in  Philadelphia  and  one  other* 
In  the  case  of  the  Old  Trappe,  no  one  could  for  a  moment  are  amongst  the  rarities  of  our  architectural  treasures,  and 
question  its  foreign  origin,  its  antiquity  or  its  general  in-  their  quaintness  is  unquestionably  due  to  their  following 
terest,  while  the  feeling  that  pervades  the  little  church  types  less  familiar  to  us  now  than  those  derived  from  Eng- 
in  Sleepy  Hollow  has  been  so  imbibed  and  availed  of  by  land,  and  simply  go  to  impress  once  more  on  the  observer 
modern  architects,  there  are  so  many  thou- 
sand just  such  little  country  ciiurches  every- 
where, that  it  is  with  difficulty  one  can  bring 
oneself  to  believe  in  its  real  antiquity,  its 
flavor  is  so  very  modern. 

Architecturally  more  interesting  than  either 
of  these  churches  is  Trinity,'  the  "Old  Swedes 
Church  "  at  Wilmington,  Del.,  built  in  1698, 
and  still  in  admirable  re- 
pair and  regular  weekly  use. 
We  call  it  interesting,  not 
only  becau.se  it  to-day  offers 
a  very  picturesque  effect,  but 
because  the  several  additions 
and  restorations  have  been 
so  well  conceived  and  skil- 
fully adjusted  that  few  would 
imagine  that  the  entire  struc- 
ture did  not  date  from  the 
same  and  a  single  epoch. 
Originally  the  church  was  a 
mere  parallelogram,  without 
tower,  belfry  or  porcii ;  still 
the  easternmost  and  perhaps 
the  other  of   the  two  tran- 


The  "Old  Trappe"  near  Collegeville,  Pa. 

[I74!-] 


septs,  or  one-time  porches,  on  the  north  side  are  believed  to 

be  nearly  coeval  with   the   body  of   the  church,      fiut   the 

tower  was  added  only  in   180;,  and  at  that  time  the  canted 

hiproof  at  that  end  of  the  church  wliich  corresponded  with 

that  which  still  covers  the  eastern  end  of  the  church  was     then,  that  just  as  these  old  church  buildings  are  preserved 

happily  done  away  with,  and  the  gable  simply  buts  against      and  cherished  with  such  tender  solicitude  by  the  descendants 


what  a  very  mixed  origin  the 
American  people  has. 

Not    far    away,    at    New 
Castle,    Del.,    is    Immanuel 
Church,  built   in    1705,   and 
an   interesting  type   of   the 
churches   built   by    English 
congregations.      It    belongs 
to  the  same  class  as  Christ 
Church    at   Williamsburg, 
Va.,    and    Christ    Church, 
Alexandria,  and  its  tower,  in 
comparison  with  the  belfried 
towers  of  the  Pennsylvania  Dutch  districts 
and   the   New  England   spired  towers,  as 
typified  by  Park  Street  Church,'  Boston, 
and  Trinity  Church,^  Newport,  forms,  as  it 
were,  a  middle  term  between  the  two.     So 
many  associations  of  a  varied  and  always 
tender  kind  cluster  about  a  church  fabric 
that  it  is  particularly  easy  to  keep  it  in  ex- 
stence  and,  from  the  many  interested,  pro- 
cure the  needed  money  to  keep  it  always 
in  repair.     Perhaps  the  most  significant  in- 
stance of  this   appreciation  is  the  refusal 
within  a  year  by  the  congregation  of  St.  Paul's  Church,  Bos- 
ton, to  part  with  that  building  —  not  a  very  antiquated  one  — 
and  its  site  for  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars,  so  that  a  great 
temple  of  trade  might  be  built  in  its  place.     It  is  to  be  hoped, 


the  tower  in  the  most  natural  manner  possible.  Later,  only 
some  fifty  years  ago,  the  south  porch,  with  its  big  round  arch, 
was  added,  not  for  pride  of  architectural  effect,  but  because 
it  was  found  necessary  to  buttress  the  south  wall,  which  was 


of  the  original  congregations,  and  just  as  the  various  socie- 
ties of  Sons  and  Daughters  of  the  Revolution  and  similar 
patriotic  bodies  are  preserving,  repairing  and  converting  to 
museum   purposes  those  semi-public   buildings  and  houses 


'Thk  Oi.i>  Tkai'I'K.  —  Thi.s.  the  oldest  Lutheran  churcli  in  the 
country,  was  l)uilt,  at  a  valuation  of  >i.ooo.  for  Henry  iMtlchior 
Mulilcnberj;  in  1  743.  and  stands  now  practically  as  it  was  then. 
The  structure  is  of  stone  stuccoed,  and  nic-asurcs  39'  x  54',  and 
that  the  structure  niij;lu  not  cost  more  than  llic  sum  appropriated 
even  the  women  helped  in  tlie  Uuililinji  of  it.  For  one  luindrud 
and  twenty-five  years  it  was  regularly  used  lor  .Sunday  and  week- 
day services,  but  since  the  huildinj;  of  a  larger  church  only  one 
service  each  year  is  held  in  tire  ancient  building. 

'Tl!K  Si.r-:i:i'Y  [loi.i.ow  Ciii'ut  h.  —  This  churcli,  whicli  is  now 
u.sed  only  in  the  summer  time.  and.  in  a  sense,  is  under  tlie  guard- 
ianship of  the  \'onkers  Historical  and  Library  Association,  was 
built  .soon  after  r6.So  at  the  instigation  of  Katrina,  second  wife  of 
Frederick  I'hilipsc.  the  first  Lord  of  tlie  .Manor,  or  I'atroon.of  tlie 
Manor  of  Tarrytown. 

'See  l'lates4-5,l'art  I.\. 

*  Christ  (Swkdksj  Cnf[(cn,  L'ppfk  Mkriox  Township.— 
This  building,  the  tliird  of  the  early  triad  of  united  Swedisli 
Lutheran  churches,  of  wliiili  (doria  Dei.  in  I'liiladclphia.  and  the 
Old   .Swedes  ('Irinity)  Church   at   Wilmington   are   tlie  otlier  two. 


was  built  in   1760.     Up  to  1831   the  pastors  were  sent  out  from 
Sweden.      'I'he  Lpiscopal  ritual   has   been  followed  since  that  time. 

5See  Plate  18,  I'art  IX. 

" Tkinity  Ciumu  II,  Ni:wpouT,  K.  I. —  Althougli  the  spire  of 
Trinity  Church  (Plates  19-22,  Part  L\)  is  certainly  graceful,  tlie 
rest  of  the  fabric,  including  tlie  tower,  is  so  severely  ])Iain  that  it  is 
doubtful  whether,  ]ilaced  in  any  other  town  than  Newport,  it  would 
ever  liave  attracted  much  attention.  Put,  thanks  to  its  being  one 
of  the  features  of  a  fashionable  summer  resort,  admiration  for 
Trinitv  Church  as  a  piece  of  architecture  has  become  a  cult,  and 
it  is  jirobably  a  better-known  building,  architecturally  speaking, 
than  the  Old  South  Church,  Boston,  itself,  by  and  under  which 
thousands  upon  thousands  of  unseeing  eyes  pass  daily.  Trinity 
was  built  in  1726,  hut  by  whom  designed,  even  devoted  antiquary 
that  he  was,  Mr.  C.eorge  C.  Ma.son,  an  architect  of  ,\ew|)ort,  was, 
we  believe,  unable  to  di.scover.  /Mthough  in  1762  the  church  was 
sawed  in  two  and  lengthened,  so  as  to  about  double  its  original 
capacity,  it  has  lieen  carefully  watched,  and  until  the  recent  intro- 
duction (if  memorial  stained-glass  windows  nothing  had  been  done 
to  impair  the  original  effect  and  character  of  the  interior  tinish 
adequately  represented  on  Plates  20-22. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


which,  like  "Stenton,"'  the  home  of  James  Logan,  in  Phila-  Itnown  than  any  other  part  of  this  broad  country.  The 
delphia,  have  an  historical  and  architectural  worth,  some  German  movement  penetrated  this  region  from  Pennsylvania, 
similar  organization  will  take  it  upon  themselves  to  preserve      and  amongst  other  of  the  places  settled  by  Germans  at  that 


the  interesting  buildings  in  Pennsyl- 
vania once  occupied  by  communal 
sectaries  of  one  kind  or  another. 
The  Harmonists  are  in  a  flourishing 
condition,  and  so  the  interesting  build- 
ings at  Economy,  Pa.,  are  likely  to  be 
properly  cared-for  for  a  long  time  to 
come  ;  but  there  are  other  places  that 
are  deserving  of  care,  such  as  the 
buildings  of  the  Monastic  Society,  or 
Seventh  Day  Baptist  monks  and  nuns 
at  Snow  Hill,  in  Quincy  township.  Pa., 
where,  as  the  last  member  of  the  So- 
ciety died  in  1893,  mere  caretakers 
now  give  to  the  monastery,  mill  and 
farm-buildings  a  questionable  amount 
of  attention. 


(Jld  Doorway,  Economy,  Pa. 


time,  Salem,  settled  by  the  Moravians 
in  1765,  must  be,  if  accounts  are  true, 
amongst  the  most  interesting  archi- 
tecturally of  the  several  settlements 
made  by  the  sect.  The  church  is  said 
to  be  peculiarly  interesting  and 
quaint,  partly  because  of  the  effect  of 
the  exceedingly  small  windows  in  the 
thick  walls,  high  up,  so  that  no  Indian 
could  shoot  an  arrow  through  some 
devotee  as  he  listened  to  the  weekly 
admonition  of  the  pastor.  There  is 
evidently  a  good  deal  of  "  local  color  " 
at  Salem  which  would  make  it  worth 
one's  while  to  attend  the  Easter  festi- 
val there,  share  the  "  coffee  and  sweet 
buns,"   and    listen   to   the   melodious 


Perhaps  other  people  do  not  share  our  idiosyncrasy,  and      hymns,  psalms  and  chorals  with  which  the  trombone  players 
so  are  perennially  cognizant  of  tlie  fact  that  North  Carolina      at  the  same   time  usher  in   the   Easter  sun  and  rouse  the 


Ttle  "William  Penn*'  Tavern,  Delaware  County,  Pa. 


is  one  of  the  States  of  the  Union,  but  we  cannot  help  feeling 
that  the  State  and  the  towns  and  villages  therein  are  less 


inhabitants  from  their  slumbers  for  the  annual  celebration. 
But  it  is  bootless  and  almost  impossible  to  particularize 


•"Stentox,"  near  Pun.ADKt.rniA,  Pa.  —  It  is  only  natural 
that  the  various  patriotic  orders  and  societies  which  in  such 
numbers  have  sprung  into  being  in  the  last  decade  should  be 
mainly  interested  in  effecting  the  preservation  of  sites  and  build- 
ings that  have  primarily  an  historic  significance,  and  a  large  num- 
ber of  the  buildings  that  they  have  preserved,  or  by  a  tablet  have 
indicated  the  original  site  thereof,  have  atisoUitely  no  architectural 
value.  To  offset  these  now  and  then  one  is  preserved  which 
should  have  had  the  fosterina;  care  of  some  one,  and  the  fortuitous 
liappening  that  a  Ijuilding  of  arcliitectural  worth  owes  its  preserva- 
tion to  the  accidents  of  history  ratlier  than  to  its  deserts  as  the 
outcome  of  artistic  effort  makes  us  none  die  less  grateful  to  those 


who  have  accomplished  it,  no  matter  whether  respect  for  history, 
pride  of  family  or  love  of  art  were  the  motive. 

The  Society  of  Colonial  Dames  of  Pennsylvania,  which  furnishes 
the  illustrations  on  Plate  12,  a  year  or  two  ago  secured  the  right 
to  restore  and  preserve  "  .Stenton,"  the  house  built  in  1728  by 
James  Logan,  first  secretary  to  William  Penn  and  later  Secretary 
of  the  Province,  President  of  the  Council,  Acting  Governor  of 
the  Province  and  Cliief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Penn- 
sylvania for  many  years. 

Its  right  to  preservation  as  the  scene  of  many  an  historic  in- 
cident is  as  little  to  be  questioned  as  that  of  its  value  as  a  sign- 
post on  our  road  of  architectural  progress. 


DUTCH  AND   GERMAN  EIGIirEENTH-CENTURY    WORK. 


the  interesting  buildings  that  grew  from  the  German  move-  find  in  many  directions  an  abundance  of  structures  erected 
ment.  Pennsylvania,'  Virginia  and  North  Carolina*  are  old  in  the  early  and  middle  part  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
States,  and  it  is  a  peculiarity  of  Pennsylvania  that,  whereas      though  few  would   be  discovered  having  any  recognizable 


The  "  Red  Lion  "  Tavern,  Philadelphia  County,  Pa.    [1730.] 


in  other  States  frame  buildings  were  normally  used,  here  a      element  of  design  that  would  lead  one  to  class  them  with  the 

great  part  of   the  buildings,  of   all    kinds,  were  erected   in      "  Old  Colonial  "  buildings  which  chiefly  concern  us. 

stone,  au  nalurei,  or  covered  with  stucco,  as  the  case  might  It  is  perhaps  fortunate  that  Pennsylvania  buildings  are  so 


Details  from  House  for  Robert  Morris.     G.  JardcUa,  Sculptor. 

be,  and    so,    being    substantial,  have    lasted    practically  un-      generally  built  of  stone,  for  it  is  evidently  because  of  this  that 
changed  to  our  day.     So  it  is  possible  in    Pennsylvania  to      there  has  come  down  to  us  in  good  condition  a  very  interesting 


*Oi-D  Paxtaxg  Chukch,  Harrisiuk(;,  1'a.  —  'Iliis  little  stone 
building  in  the  outskirts  of  the  city  was  built  in  1740,  and  was 
intended  for.  and  was  aitiiallv  more  than  once  used  a.s,  a  lilock- 
house  in  which  to  take  refuge  in  case  ol  attack  by  Indians. 

'GoVKRNOH  Tkvon's  1'ai,A(K.  —  .\s  North  Carolina  is  an  old 
State,  and  in  I'roviiitial  days  was  regarded,  niuch  as  \'irginia  was,  as 
a  desirable  plate  for  younger  .sons  and  roving  spirits  to  settle  down 
in  and  sow  tlieir  wild  oats,  it  h.id  its  good  sot  iety.  and  the  nienil)ers 
of  it  had  their  fine  houses,  so  the  Stale  |)rol)alily  offers  more  to 
the  architectural  investijcator  than  merely  the  interesting  buildings 
of  the  Moravians.  One  of  the  most  ambiliotis  houses  of  tlie  day 
undertaken  anvwhere  was  the  palace  l)iiilt  by  (lovernor  'Iryon, 
at  New  Heme  (1765-71^10  serve  as  official  residence  for  himself 


and  such  later  royal  governors  as  would,  in  course  of  time,  come 
out  from  I'.ngland.  Of  this  palace,  whicli  consisted  of  a  main 
building  Hanked  upon  either  siele  by  smaller  structures,  these  being 
one  the  servants"  quarters  and  the  other  the  stables,  both  connected 
witli  the  main  house  by  curved  colonnades,  there  remains  now  only 
traces  of  one  wall  of  the  main  house  and  the  "  Royal  .Stables," 
wliich  latter  is  in  fairly  good  preservation,  thanks  to  the  fact  that, 
the  horses  gone,  their  home  had  been  converted  into  a  scliool-hou.se. 
Of  course  all,  or  nearly  all.  of  the  material  used  in  building  the 
I'alace  was  imported  from  f-ngland  and  worked  up  into  a  structure 
tliat  cost  tlie  people  56o,ooo  —  an  enormous  cost  in  tliose  days  — 
for,  of  course,  the  Governor  taxed  upon  the  people  the  cost  of  his 
oliicial  residence.  A  rear  view,  based  upon  authorities  unknown 
to  us,  may  be  found  on  page  28. 


24 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


relic  of  the  great  house,  designed  by  I'Enfant,  that  Robert 
Morris,  "  the  financier  of  the  Revolution,"  partly  completed 
on  Chestnut  Street,  Philadelphia.  Let  into  the  face  of  the 
second-story  wall  of  a  little  stone  house  in  Conshohocken, 
just  outside  of  Philadelphia,  once  occupied  by  James  Tra- 
quier,  a  stone-cutter  and  one  of  the  contractors  for  Morris's 
house,  is  a  marble  panel,  sculptured  in  high  relief  by  an 
Italian  sculptor,  Giuseppe  Jardella,  who  had  been  imported 
to  execute  the  carved  work  that  was  to  adorn  the  great  house. 
The  panel  which,  by  the  courtesy  of  the  publishers  of  AIoiiu- 
mental  News,  we  here  illustrate,  is  dedicated  to  the  Fine- 
Arts,  or  to  Literature  and  Painting,  and  taken  with  the  pair 


The  "Oak  Tree"  Tavern  (now  used  as  a  Public  ilalll,  Montgomery  County,  Pa. 

of  great  marble  Ionic  capitals  that  stand  in  the  yard  behind 
tlie  house — which  adjoins  the  quarry  from  which  the  marble 
was  taken  —  indicates  how  serious  a  loss  it  was  to  the  archi- 
tectural records  of  the  country  when  disaster  overtook  the 
great  financier,  and  his  lordly  house  in  its  unfinished  state 
was  itself  converted  into  a  prison  to  relieve  the  overcrowded 
state  of  the  jail  in  which  its  former  owner  was  at  that  time 
lodged. 

Men  of  business  as  well  as  men  of  peace,  the  Quakers  of 
Philadelphia  were  the  connecting  link  between  the  farmers 
and  trappers  of  the  interior  and  the  mother  country,  and  in 
prosecution  of  their  business  they  and  others  had  to  travel 


widely  over  the  State,  and  as  Pennsylvania  is  not  as  well 
served  with  rivers  as  is  Virginia,  their  journeys  had  to  be 
taken  on  horseback  or  in  some  form  of  vehicle.  Along  the 
travelled  roads,  then,  that  were  thus  created  in  every  di- 
rection there  were  established  after  they  had  become  stage- 
routes,  numerous  inns  and  taverns,  many  of  which,  being  as 
substantially  built  as  other  buildings  of  the  time  and  district, 
still  exist,  a  few  still  serving  as  inns,  and  others  converted  to 
different  uses.  These  inns  seem  generally  to  have  been  kept 
by  English  hosts,  for  the  signboard  that  swung  before  the 
inn  usually  bore  a  name  and  painted  cognizance  of  the  same 
class  as  those  that  hung  before  many  an  old  English  inn, 


The  "  Blue-bell  "  Tavern,  Derby,  Pa. 

and  we  hear  of  "  Red  Lions,"  "  White  Horses,"  "  Mariner's 
Compasses,"  "  Blue  Boars,"  "  Rising  Suns,"  and  so  on,  in 
different  directions.  Perhaps  the  oldest  of  these  inns  now 
extant  is  the  "Jolly  Post,"  on  the  Frankford  Pike,  built  in 
1680  ;  but  as  the  Lancaster  Pike  was  the  first  turnpike  road 
in  the  State,  some  of  the  many  inns  along  its  length  may  be 
older  yet. 

As  many  of  these  taverns  are  associated  with  historic 
events,  and  many  of  them,  as  the  Paoli  Inn,  are  extremely 
picturesque  and  interesting,  a  very  readable  monograph, 
illustrated  with  cuts  of  greater  or  less  architectural  value, 
might  be  founded  upon  them. 


Old  Dutch  Inn,  Kingston,  N.  Y. 


The  University  of  Virginia.' 


IN  a  paper  dealing  with  the  construction  of  the  University 
of  Virginia  it  is  hard  to  confine  the  description  wholly 
to  material  construction  and  omit  all  reference  to  the 
spiritual  organization  of  the  University,  as  its  peculiar 
foundation  demanded  peculiar  housing. 

Complete  organization  as  an  academic  body  resulted  only 
after  forty  years  of  hard  study  of  architectural  systems  and 
foundations  of  Europe,  years  of  heart-breaking  opposition  to 
the  founder  and  his  theories,  of  almost  superhuman  patience 
and  endeavor  on  his  side  to  so  modify  them  as  to  make  for 
the  enlightenment  and 
liberties  of  his  people. 

Thomas  Jefferson, 
first  pioneer,  incorpo- 
rated in  our  own  Gov- 
ernment the  great  prin- 
ciples of  human  right, 
which  are  siill  working 
for  the  advancement  of 
man.  He  held  th  it 
the  permanency  of  our 
institutions  depended 
upon  a  true  education 
of  our  people.  And  he 
made  use  of  the  oppor- 
tunities which  high 
offices  of  state  at  home 
and  abroad  gave  him, 
to  study  different  edu- 
cational methods  with 
that  exhaustive  scru- 
tiny which  he  brought 
to  bear  upon  every  subject  which  he  chose  to  investigate. 
The  greatest  work  of  his  life  was  the  foundation  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Virginia,  upon  lines  then  new  in  the  field  of  letters. 

1  Portion  of  a  paper  de.scriptive  of  the  re.storation  of  the  Library 
and  the  new  buildings  of  the  University  of  \'irginia  read  before 
the  Boston  Society  of  Architects  in  the  winter  of  igoo. 

1* Jefferson's  Tomi!STOm:. — This  tombstone,  wliicli  was  re- 
moved to  make  room  for  the  monument  voted  by  Congress  in 
1882,  was  presented  by  tlie  Messrs.  Randolpli.  Jefferson's  residuarv 
legatees,  to  the  University  of  Missouri,  at  Columliia.  Mo.,  and  now 
stands  on  the  campus  of  that  University,  bearing  still  its  original 
inscription:  — 

"Here  was  buried  Thomas  Jefferson,  .Author  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  of  the  .Statute 
of  \irginia  for  religious  freedom  and  Fatlier  of  the 
University  of  Virginia." 


i'ruftssor's  House:    No  2  West  Lawn. 


On  his  tombstone-  he  is  fittingly  called  the  "Father  of  the 
University  of  Virginia."  And  father  he  was  in  every  sense, 
not  simply  the  originaor  of  its  system  of  discipline  and  its 
curriculum,  but  the  planner  and  modeller  of  its  outward 
forms,  which  were  unique  at  that  time,  and  to-day  are  inter- 
esting and  rarely  beautiful. 

The  original  drawings  prepared  by  Thomas  Jefferson  for 
the  buildings  of  the  University  are  preserved  as  heirlooms 
in  the  Randolph  family,  at  Charlottesville,  Va.  They  are 
drawn  on  scraps  of  paper  of  all  sizes  and  kinds,  partly  in 

pencil,  partly  in  ink; 
at  a  very  small  scale, 
but  with  considerable 
skill.  On  the  reverse 
side  of  the  sheets  are, 
usually,  notes  upon  the 
materials  to  be  used,  or 
estimates  of  quantities, 
and  architectural  de- 
tails. While  e.\amin- 
ing  these  papers  one 
realizes  that  this  insti- 
lution  was  entirely  the 
product  of  one  man's 
mind.  He  not  only 
drew  the  plans  and 
made  estimates  for 
every  important  feature 
of  this  group  of  Uni- 
versity buildings,  but 
in  addition  he  trained 
brickmoulders,  and  had 
brick  made  on  the  campus,  taught  masons  and  carpenters 
their  trades,  designed  tools  and  implements  for  all  his  men, 
and  established  in  his  own  yard  a  forge  where  all  nails,  bolts 


In  the  autumn  of  1901,  the  Jefferson  Club  of  St.  Uouis  made  a 
pilgrimage  to  '•  Monticello."  and  in  compensation  for  the  gift  made 
in  1882,  and  to  mark  as  well  their  visit  and  their  admiration  for 
Jefferson's  career,  erected  a  red-granite  shaft  on  the  house-grounds, 
bearing  this  inscription  :  — 

THd.MAS    JKFFKKSO.X. 

Citizen,  statesman,  patriot ; 

the   greatest   advocate   of    human   liberty  opposing 

special  privileges,  he  loved  and  trusted  the  jieople. 

TO    CO.M.MKMORATK    HIS    I'UKCH.ASh: 

OF    LOUISIA.X.A. 
lOrected  by  the  Jefferson  Club  of  St.  I.ouis,  Mo., 
on  their  pilgrimage,  October  12,  1901. 

To  expre.ss  their  devotion  to  his  principles. 


26 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


and  ironwork  used  were  turned  out  under  his  direction  by 
his  own  household  slaves.  He  imported  skilled  workmen 
from  Italy  to  carve  the  capitals  of  his  columns  from  native 
stone.  Discovering  this  stone  to  be  friable,  Italian  marble 
was  imported.  Caps  and  shafts  for  the  Rotunda  columns 
were  gotten  out  of  the  Carrara  quarries.  But  the  caps  alone 
c-ame  to  this  country,  as  the  columns  proved  too  heavy  for 


of  the  same.  At  the  rear  of  the  room  is  a  window  opposite 
to  the  doors,  which  open  from  under  continuous  arcades 
directly  into  the  rooms,  just  as  those  facing  the  Lawn  are 
entered  under  the  colonnades. 

The  spaces  between  the  Ranges  and  the  Lawn  were  cut 
up  into  yards  in  which  the  most  primitive  sanitaries  were 
arranged.     The  dividing-walls,  some  of  which  are  still  stand- 


,^\v\w 

Y^^         ^^^^^^ 

BFJ^ajf/     . 

■-      TXI^wt' 

■K.M^'  ^^'  ^Wl 

E 

uiitiiiij 

ii 

B^^^^^^^^^'''  ""'-'   •'.      "               .-:-.  .-'^1 

!■ 

s 

^«] 

1 

lj|il| 

Professor's  House  :    No.  4  West  Lawn. 

shipment  in  those  days,  and  lay  for  many  years  at  the  quar- 
ries without  a  market. 

Plate  7,  taken  from  an  engraved  survey  made  in  1856, 
shows  the  Jefferson  group  of  buildings  as  completed  in 
1826.  Sites  for  these  were  found  on  a  commanding  hill  by 
levelling  its  top  and  terracing  its  southern  slope.  The 
Rotunda,  or  library,  was  placed  on  the  highest  point  and,  on 
each  side  of  an  axis  drawn  through  its  centre  north  and 
south,  the  other  build- 
ings were  laid  out  in 
four  parallel  rows,  with 
wide  open  spaces  be- 
tween them.  The  cen- 
tral space,  called  "  The 
Lawn,"  has  ten  houses 
faced  upon  it,  each  of 
two  stories,  generally 
with  Classic  porticos. 
Each  house  has  two 
one-story  wings,  con- 
taining five  rooms. 

These  ten  houses 
were  planned  with  large 
lecture-rooms  on  the 
ground-floors,  and  ac- 
commodations for  the 
lecturers  and  their  fami- 
lies on  the  second  floors. 
The  families  now  oc- 
cupy all  the  rooms,  and 
the  lectures  are  held  in  other  buildings.  The  wing  rooms 
were  designed  for  students'  quarters,  and  are  still  so  used. 
These  rooms,  like  monastic  cells,  are  entered  directly  from 
the  colonnades,  which  are  continuous  across  the  front  of  the 
several  houses  and  bind  them  into  one  harmonious  whole. 

The  other  rows  of  buildings  are  called  "  The  Ranges." 
The  larger  buildings  at  the  ends  are  students'  hotels,  the 
central  ones  are  officers'  lodgings  and  lecture-rooms,  while 
the  intermediate  ones  are  cut  up  into  students'  rooms. 
These  last,  being  designed  for  two,  are  about  12  feet  square, 
and  have  a  fireplace  on  one  side,  with  a  closet  on  each  side 


Professor's  House:    No.  2  East  Lawn, 


Professor's  House:    No.  5  East  Lawn. 

ing,  were  built  of  one  thickness  of  brick,  along  waving  lines, 
to  make  them  stable.  By  this  device  many  thousands  of 
brick  were  saved,  with  strong  and  decidedly  picturesque 
walls  as  the  result. 

A  comparison  of  Mr.  Jefferson's  original  drawings  with 
photographs  of  tlie  buildings  as  they  stand  to-day  serve 
to  show  how  closely  the  original  sketches  were  followed, 
and  also  how  much  they  were  bettered  in  execution.     The 

porticos  were  all  pro- 
portioned, and  details 
of  the  orders  taken, 
from  Palladio's  great 
work  on  architecture. 
The  walls  are  of  red 
brick,  the  columns  and 
shafts  of  brick  covered 
with  stucco,  the  caps 
and  bases  of  stone  or 
marble,  and  the  cor- 
nices,  window-frames, 
sills  and  lintels  are  of 
wood  with  ornaments 
of  hammered  lead  and 
putty.  Everything  ex- 
cept the  brick  is  painted 
white. 

The  Rotunda  was 
planned  after  the 
Roman  Pantheon  ex- 
teriorly, but  was  only 
one-half  the  diameter,  therefore  one-eighth  the  volume.  By 
the  drawings,  it  was  intended  to  be  exactly  circumscribed 
about  a  sphere.  The  interior  was  cut  up  into  three  stories, 
the  first  two  into  elliptical  rooms  quaintly  interlocked,  the 
third  a  rotunda  with  a  colonnade  of  coupled  columns,  deep 
alcoves  and  a  great  dome  overhead. 

As  this  dome  was  entirely  of  wood,  the  steps  on  the  out- 
side decayed  in  time,  were  removed  by  some  superintendent 
of  buildings  to  save  repair,  and  the  dome  left,  showing  above 
the  attic  as  an  unbroken  sphere,  except  for  the  eye  and 
skylight  at  the  top. 


THE   UNIVERSITY  OF   VIRGINIA. 


27 


Views  of  the  house'  which  Jefferson  built  for  himself  will 
add  to  the  appreciation  of  his  work  as  an  architect.  "  Mon- 
ticello  "  was  completed  in  18 10,  some  years  before  the  Uni- 
versity buildings  were  begun,  but  it  is  of  the  same  style,  with 
brick  walls  and  cornices  of  wood,  all  detail  being  copied 
from  good  Classic  examples,  but  modified  by  the  workmen 
and  exigency  of  the  materials. 

The  Rotunda  of  the  University  was  not  completed  until 
after  Mr.  Jefferson's  death,  he  only  living  to  see  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Lawn  and  Ranges  and  to  see  the  first  capital  of 
the  south  portico  set  in  place.     About  i860  an  annex  was 


Professor's  House:    No.  i  East  Lawn. 

built  to  accommodate  the  rapidly-growing  schools,  and  pro- 
vide a  public  hall.  This  was  a  five  or  six  story  building 
added  at  the  north  of  the  Rotunda,  with  a  portico  on  the  ex- 
treme north,  like  a  parody  of  the  original  one  on  the  south. 
Its  height  was  masked  by  a  terrace  of  rough  stone,  quite 
artistic  in  its  effect. 

In  October,  1895,  the  Rotunda  and  its  annex  burned.  A 
period  of  depression  and  anxiety  followed.  Two  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars  was  subscribed,  some  mistakes 
were  made,  but,  finally,  the  Board  of  Visitors  selected  McKim, 
Mead  &  White,  of  New  York,  as  the  gentlemen  best  qualified 
to  restore  the  Rotunda  and  to  plan  the  new  buildings  which 
should  be  built  to  house  the  several  schools.  The  architects, 
admiring  greatly  the  work  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  desired  to  restore 
the  Rotunda  exteriorly  to  its  original  lines,  and  to  so  place 
and  design  the  new  buildings  as  to  emphasize  the  Jefferson 
group.  I  quote  in  part  from  their  report  when  submitting 
their  plans :  — 

"  The  scheme  contemplates  the  erection  of  the  Academic 
Building,  the  Physics  Building,  the  Mechanical  Building,  with 
sites  for  a  Law  Building  and  Hall  of  Languages,  on  a  new 
'lawn,'  and  for  other  buildings  allowing  for  future  expan- 
sion in  this  direction.  The  plans  for  the  Jefferson  Rotunda 
contemplate  its  exact  restoration  as  far  as  the  exterior  is  con- 
cerned, with  the  exception  of  the  rear,  which  has  come  down 
in  an  unfinished  state,  and  for  which  some  new  treatment  in 
harmony  with  the  old  had  to  be  devised.  The  interior  is 
thrown  into  one  large  rotunda.  The  low  terraced  wings  on 
the  front  of  the  building  are  repeated  at  the  rear,  and  these 

»  Plates  8-1 1,  Part  IX. 


new  wings  are  connected  to  the  old  ones  by  colonnades, 
forming  two  courts,  to  be  completed  now  or  at  some  future 
time.  This  gives,  adjacent  to  the  library,  two  additional  class- 
rooms. The  scheme  presented  contemplates  the  retaining 
of  the  terrace  of  the  destroyed  addition,  and  the  turning  of 
the  sunken  part  into  a  garden. 

"  To  the  question  of  the  remodelling  of  the  interior  of  the 
Rotunda,  we  have  given  most  careful  study.  Reasons  of 
sentiment  would  point  to  the  restoration  of  the  interior 
exactly  as  it  stood,  but  the  dedication  of  the  entire  Rotunda 
to  use  as  a  library,  and  the  unquestionable  fact  that  it  was 


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Professor's  House:    No.  ,i  East  Lawn. 

only  practical  necessity  which  forced  Jefferson  at  the  time  it 
was  built  to  cut  the  Rotunda  into  two  stories,  and  that  he 
would  have  planned  the  interior  as  a  simple,  single  and  noble 
room  had  he  then  been  able  to  do  so,  induces  us  strongly  to 
urge  upon  your  Board  the  adoption  of  a  single  domed  room, 
as  presented,  not  only  as  the  most  practical,  but  the  proper 
treatment  of  the  interior. 

"  The  scheme  submitted  contemplates  the  restoration  of  the 
Rotunda  as  a  fireproof  building  throughout.  The  site  for 
the  new  buildings  completing  the  College  Close  we  believe 
to  be  the  only  one,  both  on  rational  and  sentimental  grounds. 
The  character  of  the  land,  falling  away  on  the  southern  side 
of  the  road,  allows  the  Academic  Building  and  the  Physical 
and  Mechanical  Buildings  to  appear  as  only  one  story  in 
height,  whereas  on  account  of  the  steep  grade  they  actually 
count  for  practical  use  as  two.  The  charm  of  the  present 
Close  and  the  domination  of  the  Rotunda  are  therefore  pre- 
served. It  is  impossible,  with  the  amount  of  money  avail- 
able for  the  University,  to  build  these  new  buildings  fireproof. 
We  do  not,  however,  consider  this  as  seriously  advisable  as 
in  the  case  of  the  Rotunda.  The  plans  as  submitted  for  these 
buildings  contemplate  the  use  of  fireproof-floors  wherever 
they  seem  advisable,  and  as  the  boilers  and  the  entire  heat- 
ing and  electric-lighting  apparatus  are  removed  to  a  separate 
building,  the  danger  from  fire  is  reduced  to  a  minimum." 

Guastavino  tile-construction  was  adopted  for  use  in  the 
Rotunda  as  being  best  suited  to  the  designs,  and  it  stands 
to-day  as  fireproof  a  structure  as  there  is  anywhere.  There 
are  no  furred  ceilings  or  false  forms.  Everywhere  the  con- 
struction form  shows.  Theodore  H.  Skinner. 


The  Cape  Fear  River  District,  N.  C. 


ONE  of  the  most  interesting  sections  of  North 
Carolina,  so  far  as  concerns  architecture  of  the 
Colonial  period,  is  that  on  the  Cape  Fear  River, 
beginning  at  the  city  of  Wilmington  and  extend- 
ing seaward  to  near  the  river's  nioutii.  In  tlie  city  itself, 
which  began  its  existence  about  the  year  1730,  —  under  the 
name  of  Liverpool,  and  in  1739  adopting  its  present  name, 
Wilmington,  — there  are  a  number  of  Colonial  houses,  but  only 
two  built  in  the  eighteenth  century  of  attractive  architec- 
tural appearance.  Both  of  these  buildings  are  situated  on 
Third  Street,  and  are  not  far  apart,  being  separated  only  by 
the  width  of  the  street.  The  best  preserved  (now  owned 
and  occupied  by  a  Mrs.  McCrary)  has  its  most  important 
historic  association  in  the  fact  that  it  was  the  headquarters 
of  Lord  Cornwallis,  Commander  of  the  British  forces  during 
the  Revolutionary  War. 

This  mansion  is  of  wood,  two  stories  in  heiglit,  and  has 
not  much  in  the  way  of  ornamental  feature  —  save  the 
two  verandas,  each  with  six  Ionic  columns  —  but  the  general 
effect  is  pleasing.  There  is  a  one-story  rear  extension  to  the 
house;  and,  at  the  main  gables,  there  are  large  chimneys. 
The  other  Colonial  building,  opposite  the  McCrary  house, 


leading  through  a  bay  from  the  river-landing  up  to  the  mansion. 

Farther  down  stream,  14  miles  from,  the  river's  mouth,  is 
Orton  Plantation,  a  place  rich  in  historic  and  legendary  lore. 
It  took  its  name  from  a  village  in  England,  and  was  first 
owned  by  Maurice  Moore,  the  grandson  of  Governor  Sir 
John  Yeamans  and  son  of  Governor  James  Moore  of  South 
Carolina,  who,  in  17 11,  came  to  North  Carolina  to  aid  in 
suppressing  the  Tuscaloosa  Indian  outbreak.  The  planta- 
tion, now  owned  by  Col.  K.  M.  Murchison,  consists  of  10,000 
acres,  and  upon  one  of  its  most  commanding  and  beautiful 
hills  there  stands  the  "  Mansion  House,"  a  venerable  struct- 
ure built  about  the  year  1725  by  "King"  Roger  Moore, 
brother  of  the  original  proprietor  of  Orton. 

The  building  —  wliich  has  been  to  some  extent  improved 
since  the  days  of  "King  Roger"  —  can  easily  be  seen  from 
the  river;  it  presents  a  most  picturesque  appearance,  lifting 
its  lofty  roof  amidst  old  trees,  while  its  glistening  whiteness 
makes  striking  contrast  with  the  abundant  surrounding  ver- 
dure. Four  huge  columns  rise  from  the  deep  veranda,  which 
extends  across  the  wiiole  front  of  the  building,  unobstructed 
to  the  high,  overhanging  front  gable  that  makes  the  veranda 
covering.      The  central  (front)   entrance  projects  from  the 


^^'"■^'W?^ 


s  Palace    Wl       go       N    (J." 


was  the  ancient  home  of  the  De  Rosset  family,  and,  a  hun-  wall,  and,  at  the  top,  there  is  a  railed  balcony,  v  On  each  ; 

dred  years  later,  used  as  headquarters  for  the  Confederate  side  and  above  this  are  large  windows.     The  side-walls  rise 

generals  commanding  the  lower  Cape  Fear  district.  sheer  from  ground  to  roof,  two  stories  high,  the  large  win- 

This  structure  is  of  brick,  made  in  England.     It  is  three  dows  alone  relieving  the  bare  surface.     The  roof  saddles  the 

stories  in  height,  oblong,  square  in  main  body,  with  a  low,  structure,  rising  fairly  sharp  and  without  ornament, 
sloping  back  extension.     In  front  there  is  a  wide  veranda.  This  edifice  (it  looks  like  a  church  or  other  public  build 


having  square  columns,  which  support  a  balconied  top;  and 
from  this  the  brick  (front)  wall,  relieved  only  by  large  win- 
dows, rises  to  meet  the  shallow  eaved  roof.  The  latter  is  of 
the  ordinary  gabled-end  kind,  but  each  gable  is  surmounted 
by  a  very  wide  chimney. 

A  few  miles  from  Wilmington,  oceanward  and  near  the 
Cape  Fear  River,  are  the  ruins  of  the  finest  of  Cape  Fear 
Colonial  mansions.      Tliis   was    "Sedgely  Abbey,"  built  in 


ing)  was  built  of  brick  brought  from  Etigland;  but,  though 
made  of  clav,  it  is  grand  in  its  massive  simplicity,  and  is  an 
ideal  specimen  of  old  Southern  plantation  dwellings. 

In  the  Orton  neighborhood,  about  half  a  mile  from  the 
Murchison  residence,  are  the  ruins  of  Colotiial  Governor 
Tryon's  "palace,"  —  a  square,  two-story  structure  built  of 
English  brick, —  a  spot  of  national  historical  importance  from 
tile  fact  that  here  occurred   the  first  overt  act  of  violence 


1726  by  an  English  gentleman  of  great  wealth,  Maxwell  by      in  the  Revolutionary  War,  about  eight  years  before  the  people 
name,  who  owned  miles  of  property  in  this  section  of  the      of  Boston  had  their  famous  Tea-party. 


country.  The  mansion  was  large  and  of  much  architectural 
pretension,  and  was  built  of  coquina.  On  its  east  side, 
toward  the  sea,  there  was  a  wide  oak-bordered  avenue  whicli 
extended  a  distance  of  1,500  feet,  and  was  approached  over  a 
corduroy  road,  still  in  evidence  and  bordered  with  fine  trees, 


Though  there  is  in  the  present  aspect  of  this  historical 
place  little  to  suggest  the  old-time  grandeur  of  Tryon's 
palace  and  its  surroundings,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  that  ancient 
governor  was  "  well  fixed,"  and  a  royal  liver. 

l,<iMES  Eastus  Price. 


2& 


Charleston,  between  Ashley  and  Cooper. 


THE   Charleston  '■    we   know   to-day  presents,  archi- 
tecturally, a  quaint  mixture  of  French  and  English 
ideas,  together  with  some  of  the  more  salient  ones 
of   old   San  Domingo,  in  the  way  of   exaggerated 
verandas  and  high  brick  walls,  thrown  in  for  good  measure. 


tants,  the  English  Cavalier  and  the  French  Huguenot,  both 
of  whom  represented  people  of  pronounced  opinions  as  to 
what  constituted  domestic  comfort  and  elegance.  The  San 
Domingo  feeling  came  naturally  and  regularly  enough,  too, 
along  with  a  lot  of  wealthy  immigrants  from  the  West  Indian 


Entrance  to  tlte  Bull  House,  Bull  Street,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


The  first  two  of  these  »/(?///>  —  the  French  and  the  English —      Islands   who   made    their   homes  in  Charleston,  where   the 
were  inherited,  naturally  enough,  from    its   earliest   inhabi-      climate  was  not   totally  unlike  that  left  behind    them,  and 


'Charleston.  —  Charleston  was  settled  in  1680  .by  English 
Colonists  under  Col.  William  Sayle,  and  called  New  Cliarles- 
Town  because  of  abortive  attempts  to  found  earlier  cities  o£  the 
same  name  in  the  same  general  locality  as  far  back  as  1670.      Its 


geographical  position  is  similar  to  that  of  Manhattan  Island  in 
that  it  is  bounded  on  either  side  by  rivers  of  considerable  width 
—  the  Cooper  to  the  east  and  the  Ashley  to  the  west  — ■  and  faces 
the  harbor  to  the  southeast. 


30 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


proceeded  to  make  themselves  comfortable  in  their  own 
way. 

The  houses  built  by  these  immigrants  were  usually  spacious, 
with   enormous   two  and   three  story   covered   verandas   as 
special  features,  though  quite  lacking  in  interior  adornment. 
They  were  commonly  surrounded  by  large  grounds  around 
which  high  brick  walls  were  built,  after  the  manner  of  that 
surrounding  the  Simonton  residence  '  on  Lcgare  Street,  which, 
with  its  great  iron  gateway,^  is  one  of  tlie  show-places  of  the 
city.     These  walls  afforded  the  greatest  privacy — a  thing 
always  of  paramount  importance  with  Charlestonians  —  and 
allowed  the  outsider  no  glimpse  of  the  well-arranged  garden 
within    with    its    gay 
masses  of  odorous  opo- 
ponax,  reve  d'or  roses 
and   tropical    palmetto 
bushes,    among    which 
the  women  of  the  fam- 
ily wandered  informally 
at  pleasure  —  or,  if 
any,  just  a  tantalizing 
peep  through  the  richly 
wrought   entrance- 
gates. 

Although  these  San 
Domingo  houses  had 
no  feeling  of  Classi- 
cism, toward  which  the 
Cavaliers  and  their  de- 
scendants, being  men 
of  culture  and  wide 
social  experience,  were 
greatly  inclined,  they 
were  so  practical  and 
comfortable,  so  thor- 
oughly adapted  to  the 
demands  of  the  climate 
and  the  hospitable  life 
of  the  South,  and  so 
much  less  expensive, 
on  the  whole,  than 
Georgian  houses  of  the 
type  of  the  Miles  Brew- 
ton  house, °  built  in 
1765;  and  the  Lord 
William  Campbell 
house*  on  Meeting 
Street,  that,  little  by 
little,  the  style  became 
almost  universal 
among  the  masses  as 
well  as  the  classes.  So 
much  so  that,  modified, 

amplified,  and  beautified  by  French  or  English  ideas  of 
adornment,  it  became  in  due  time  —  high  walls,  great  gate- 
ways, and  all  —  what  might  accurately  be  called  the  Charles- 

'  SiMONTOx.  —  The  Simonton  residence  was  built  some  time  be- 
tween 1740  and  1770,  and  at  that  time,  as  tlie  original  plan  shows, 
the  garden  attached  to  tlie  premises  was  laid  out.  The  wall  was 
built  by  a  silk  merchant,  Lorentz,  who  purchased  the  property 
toward  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century.  The  gate  was  a  some- 
what later  structure,  and  is  said  to  have  been  the  work  of  a  Ger- 
man, by  the  name  of  Werner,  who  was  a  genius  in  ironwork. 

2  Plates  29.  30,  Part  X. 

'I'lates  lS-26,  Part  -V. 

*  Page  38,  l^art  X. 

si'late  2,  I'art  X. 


.  — r<^--VVT/(J2«Z>W 


Gateway  on  the  East  Battery.  Charleston. 


ton  type,  and  continued  its  vogue  —  despite  the  seductive 
influence  of  the  Greek  revival,  which  began  to  make  its  in- 
fluence felt  at  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  — 
until  the  Civil  War. 

These  typical  houses  were  situated  in  two  different  man- 
ners, the  more  popular  of  which  was  to  turn  an  end  of  the 
house  to  the  streef,  running  it  up  on  a  line  with  the  sidewalk, 
leaving  a  seemingly  endless  expanse  of  veranda  to  open  on  a 
side  garden.  A  perfect  illustration  of  this  method  of  locating 
a  residence  is  afforded  by  the  George  Edmondson  house  '  on 
Legare  Street,  now  owned  by  Capt.  J.  Adger  Smythe.  Here 
the  dwelling  itself  presents  on  first  sight  the  average  appear- 
ance of  a  town-house) 
with  a  simple  but  well 
designed  entrance  from 
the  street.  By  peering 
about  carefully,  how- 
ever, through  the  vines 
and  trees  and  seeking 
the  proper  position  for 
a  good  view,  the  formal 
front,  or  side,  to  speak 
more  properly,  is  found 
to  be  but  a  mask 
for  a  characteristically 
Southern  mansion  of 
extraordinary  size,  sur- 
rounded by  an  exten- 
sive garden  shut  off 
from  the  street  by  a 
high  wall  of  brick,  wood 
and  iron,  the  feature  of 
which  is  a  remarkably 
fine  gateway'  which,  in 
connection  with  the 
grilled  entrance,  forms 
a  continuous  design. 
This  doorway,  by  the 
way,  does  not  lead  into 
the  house  proper,  as 
one  might  imagine,  but 
—  after  the  manner  of 
most  Charleston  door- 
ways —  up  several 
steps  on  the  inside  to 
the  first  floor  of  the 
veranda,  the  existence 
of  which  a  stranger 
passing  by.  the  appar- 
ent front  would  not 
suspect. 

The   other    "man- 
ner ''  referred  to  placed 
the   house   in    the   midst   of   large   grounds  some   distance 
from    the 'street.     Although   here   again   it  was   sometimes 
turned  endwise,  it  was  more  generally  given  a  full  front  to  the 

'  The  Edmondson  gateway  has  served  as  a  model  for  manv 
others  in  Charleston  and  elsewhere,  none  of  wliich,  however,  equal 
the  original  in  beauty.  The  wrought-iron  work  was  imported 
from  England  with  the  initials  of  the  builder  as  features  of  the 
grillework  on  either  side  of  the  doorway.  The  fashion  of  intro- 
ducing such  initials  in  wrought-iron  trimmings  prevailed  in  Char- 
leston, an  example  of  which  is  also  furnished  by  the  entrance  to 
the  Nathaniel  Russell  house  on  Meeting  Street,*  which  was  built 
about  I  790,  and  also  by  the  veranda  railing  of  an  old  antiquities 
shop  on  Queen  Street. 

*  Plate  12,  PartX. 


CHARLESTON,  BETWEEN  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER. 


31 


thoroughfare,  as  in  the  case  of  the  De  Saussure  house  on  the  accommodation  of  an  average  sized  family.     The  pushing 

South   Battery.     As  a  rule,  too,   they  were  built   after  the  of  these  houses  upward  instead  of  spreading  them  outward 

general  plan  of  this  house  —  three  stories  high,  with  a  three-  over  a  larger  area,  while  it  added  to  their  coolness  —  a  thing 

story  columned  veranda  stretching  across   the  entire  front  most  to  be  desired  in  a  hot  climate  —  certainly  produced  very 


upon  which  the  full-length 
windows  of  the  rooms  open. 
From  the  house  a  wide  sandy 
walk  leads  down  to  the 
carriage-gate,  flanked  on  one 
side  by  a  smaller  gate  where 
the  family  enters  and  where 
visitors  pause  to  ring  a  bell, 
and  on  the  other  by  the 
servants'  entrance. 

The  interior  arrangement 
of  these  huge  old  San  Do- 
mingo houses  is  exceedingly 
simple,  consisting,  as  a  rule, 
of  a  central  hall,  with  one 
great  room  on  either  side  of 
it  supplied  with  long  windows 
to  catch  the  breeze.     Having 


KITCHEN' 


Plan  of  the  Nathaniel  Russell  House. 


outre  and  remarkable  effects; 
which,  on  the  whole,  however, 
are  unique  though  ungainly, 
and  sometimes  positively 
baronial  and  a  trifle  awful, 
as  in  the  case  of  the  Holmes 
house  on  East  Battery," 
which,  though  slightly  differ- 
ent in  form,  illustrates  the 
same  idea  of  construction 
and  in  which  the  style  may 
be  said  to  have  reached  its 
extremest  limit.  This  house 
was  built  by  James  Gadsden 
Holmes,  Sr.,  in  1818,  and 
was  until  long  after  the  war 
(during  which,  being  white 
and  the  highest  building  on 


only  two  rooms  to  a  floor  with  an  occasional  one  or  two  the  Battery,  it  was  used  for  target  practice  by  the  Federals 
story  L  to  the  rear  and  the  servants'  quarters  in  an  addition  and  frequently  hit)  the  residence  of  his  family,  by  members 
to  the  right  or  left  (see  quarters  to  Ue  Saussure  house')  it      of  which  it  is  still  owned.     For  years,  however,  it  has  been 


A  Doorway  in  the  Nathaniel  Russell  House. 


became  necessary  to  add  numerous  stories  to   the  original      practically  deserted  while  seeking  a  purchaser.     The  great 
one  in  order  to  secure  the  number  of  apartments  needed  for      rooms   are   bare    except   for    stray    bits   of    old    mahogany 
>  Plate  4,  Part  X.  '  I'late  6,  I'art  X. 


32 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


furniture,  most  of  the  wood  of  which,  by  the  way,  came  from 
San  Domingo.  In  the  dusty,  webby  old  arched  dining-room, 
for  instance,  stands  an  antique  sideboard  of  simple  design 
but  good  wood  and  excellent  workmanship,  with  its  doors 
aimlessly  open  —  left  behind  as  a  thing  of  no  value.  A 
curious  old  desk  is  in  the  hall  with  a  leaded  glass  case  above 
for  books  and  three  large  drawers  below,  the  top  one  of 
which  lets  down  to  form  a  writing-shelf.  In  the  octagon 
drawing-room  above  the  arched  entrance  several  old  family 
portraits  lean  wearily  against  the  wall  —  two  by  Copley  and 
one  by  Flagg ;  and  in  the  attic,  up  five  long  flights  of  stairs, 
half  concealed  by  a  lot  of  old  Edinburgh  Reviews  of  1S12-14 
and  other  dilapidated  books  which  speak  plainly  of  the  cul- 
tured tastes  of  those  who  once  inhabited  the  rooms  below, 
lies  an  old  satinwood  four-poster,  one  standard  of  which  has 


features  of  the  homes  of  the  rich  in  old  Charleston.  In 
them  the  celebrated  "Jockey  Club"  and  "Belvedere"^  and 
other  madeiras  for  which  the  city  was  so  famous  were  stored, 
as  the  action  of  the  sun  on  the  roof  produced  a  higher  tem- 
perature than  could  have  been  obtained  in  a  subterranean 
closet  and  the  slight  motion  of  the  house  was  considered 
desirable  during  fermentation. 

From  the  roof  of  the  Holmes  house  one  may  enjoy  a  per- 
fect view  of  the  city  of  Charleston,  from  the  green  fertile 
islands  lying  beyond  the  harbor  to  the  south,  far  up  the 
Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers  to  the  nonh,  with  the  Wrenesque 
spire  of  St.  Michael's  standing  up  white  and  clear  against 
the  vivid  blue  of  the  sky — less  delicate  in  outline,  however, 
than  the  more  recent  spire  of  St.  Philip's,  not  far  away. 

The  oldest  part  of  the  city  of  Charleston,  as  laid  out  by 


^<r;2;^/y.y,/,j;;»^,^,^,^.,, 


;»)  i.\\  )''"'- a  ttvv/ju~(^;- 


■  JuiutorS  Entrance  Lod^e  •  Charle5tor»  College 

Charleston  SC  • 
[17831 


poked  itself  through  the  open  door  of   an  attic  wine-closet 
there. 

Attic  wine-closets,  by  the  way,  are  among  the  many  unique 

1  According  to  the  earliest  records,  madeira  was  the  common 
drink  in  Charleston  in  1763.  In  tlie  middle  of  the  eighteentli 
century  it  became  fashional)le  in  England  owing  to  the  recom- 
mendation of  officers  who  had  served  in  the  West  Indies  and 
America.  It  became  customary  to  sliip  the  wine  from  Madeira 
to  the  West  Indies  and  tlience  to  America  to  improve  its  taste. 
This  journeying,  in  a  measure,  took  the  place  of  submitting  the 
wines  to  a  high  temperature  in  stone  buildings.  The  early 
shippers  found  that  the  climate  of  Charleston  was  especially 
adapted  to  mellowing  the  wine  and  imparting  to  it  tliat  peculiar 
bouquet  and  flavor  so  prized  by  connoisseurs  and  stored  large 
quantities  of  it  there.  .So  famous,  in  fact,  was  the  wine  of  old 
Charleston  that  tlie  British  Consul  was  instructed  to  purchase 
wine  for  the  (Queen's  table  there  and  annually  did  so,  selecting  it 


John  Culpepper  in  1680  and  presented  for  the  first  time  in  a 
map  drawn  by  Edward  Crisp  in  1704,  extended  from  the  sea 
on  the  south  to  what  was  formerly  a  creek  on  the    north, 

from  the  cellars  of  private  gentlemen.  Much  fine  old  wine  is  still 
stored  in  the  cellars  of  the  rich  and  aristocratic  families  of 
Charleston,  though  it  is  rapidly  disappearing.  The  oldest  wine 
known  there  now  is  in  the  possession  of  the  Blake  familv  and  is 
146  years  old.  The  Hlake  wine  is  known  historically  as  the 
"  Earthquake  wine,"  having  been  brought  to  Charleston  the  year 
of  the  great  Lisbon  earthquake,  1755.  Ur.  Gabriel  Manigault 
had,  prior  to  his  deatli,  a  few  dozen  bottles  of  the  celebrated 
"  Belvedere,"  named  from  the  vessel  that  brought  it  from  Madeira 
in  1838.  There  is  still  a  quantitv  of  "Jockey  Club"  madeira  in 
Charleston  held,  under  a  perhaps  mistaken  faith  in  its  keeping 
ciualities,  at  exorbitant  prices.  It  is  so  called  because  at  the 
Jockey  Club  balls,  instituted  more  than  a  century  ago,  it  was 
the  brand  served. 


CHARLESTON,  BETWEEN  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER. 


33 


where  the  celebrated  Charleston  market  ^  now  stands,  which 
was  established  as  early  as  1788,  although  the  present 
market-house  was  not  built  until  1841.  On  the  east  it  was 
bounded  by  Cooper  River  and  extended  west  as  far  as  Meet- 
ing Street,  at  ine  extreme  limit  of  which  stood  what  was  then 
a  public  market,  with  St.  Philip's  Church  —  which  was  the 
first  English  church  in  South  Carolina  —  on  the  site  where 
St.  Michael's  now  stands.  From  this  point,  which  may  now 
be  pointed  out  as  the  corner  of  Meeting  and  Broad  Streets,  to 
the  Battery,  streets  intersected  each  other,  consisting  of  eight 
in  all  and  one  alley,  namely :  Tradd  Street,  Elliot  Street, 
Broad  and  Queen  Streets  running  east  and  west;  and  Bay, 
Union  (now  State),  Church  and  Meeting  Streets  running 
north  and  south. 

Tradd  Street,  a  quaint,  narrow,  silent  thoroughfare  paved 


days,  was  a  social  thoroughfare.  Church  Street,  at  right- 
angles,  not  far  away,  was  equally  so. 

Any  one  interested  in  the  architectural  characteristics  of 
Charleston  should  enter  this  historic  roadway  at  the  Bat- 
tery, from  which  it  takes  its  narrow  and  winding  course  past 
old  iron  gateways  and  high  brick  walls,  overgrown  with 
cypress-vine  and  Virginia  creeper  ;  under  the  projecting  hoods 
of  doorways,  toward  the  heart  of  the  city,  crossing  at  intervals 
streets  equally  quaint  and  curious.  Looking  down  Longi- 
tude Lane  and  St.  Michael's  Alley  one  could  almost  imagine 
one's  self  in  old  Havana,  while  down  Tradd  or  Queen 
Street,  toward  East  Bay,  there  are  features  that  suggest  the 
French  Quarter  of  New  Orleans. 

East  Bay  Street  itself,  with  its  wharves,  storehouses  and 
dilapidated  old  dwellings,  now  turned  into  tenements  and  fast 


Tlie  College  of  Cliarleston. 


with  cobble-stones,  is  to-day  one  of  the  most  interesting  sights 
afforded  the  student  of  Coloniana  visiting  Charleston.  A 
plain  old  house  that  formerly  stood  at  the  corner  of  Tradd 
and  East  Bay  was  the  residence  of  Robert  Tradd,  from  whom 
the  street  took  its  name  and  in  which  the  first  native  child 
was  bcrn.  Not  far  away,  on  the  southwest  corner  of  East 
Bay  and  Longitude  Lane,  the  pretentious  dwelling  of  Land- 
grave Thomas  Smith  used  to  stand,  on  a  lot  in  the  rear  of 
which  the  first  rice  in  South  Carolina  is  believed  to  have  been 
planted  as  far  back  as  1693.  On  the  north  side  of  Tradd 
Street,  about  midway  between  Church  and  East  Bay  Streets, 
the  old  Carolina  Coffee-house  still  stands.  In  its  day  this 
was  the  leading  fashionable  hotel  in  the  city.  The  Governor 
and  his  staff  lodged  there  and  it  was  the  scene  of  all  the 
public  dinners  given  to  strangers.     Tradd  Street,  iti  the  old 

'  See  illustration,  pa^^e  49. 


going  to  ruin,  many  of  them  being  already  wholly  uninhabit- 
able, is  curiously  unlike  any  modern  street  in  any  modern 
town,  although,  at  one  time,  it  was  a  favorite  residence  sec- 
tion of  the  rich,  fronting,  as  it  does,  toward  both  Cooper 
River  and  the  sea.  One  of  the  notable  houses  of  this  vicinity 
stands  on  the  corner  of  Laurens  and  East  Bay  Streets,  sur- 
rounded by  the  remains  of  what  was  once  a  garden,  part 
of  which  is  now  used  as  a  city  dumping-ground.  This  house," 
which  was  formerly  bare  of  its  present  verandas,  was  built 
about  1770  by  Henry  Laurens,  the  first  President  of  the  Con- 
tinental Congress,  Minister  Plenipotentiary  to  Holland,  a 
friend  of  Washington's,  and  one  of  our  most  picturesque 
national  characters.  Just  across  the  street  from  it  is  Hey- 
ward    house,'  one    of    the    many   in    Charleston   built   by 

'  See  cut,  page  34. 

«  Mates  lo-i  1,  Part  X. 


34 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


members  of  that  distinguished  family,  another  of  which  is  ing)  as  for  their  masterly  construction.  Here  also  may  be 
just  a  stone's  throw  away,  at  87  Church  Street.'  With  its  found  an  interesting  display  of  wrought-iron  railings,  win- 
great  old  gateway  and  Corinthian   portico  it  is  not  easily      dow-screens,  brackets   and  other  trimmings  —  in  which,  by 


overlooked  or  forgotten,  for  it  possesses,  more  than 
Charleston  houses,  a  peculiar  and  persistent ^(f/«W  of  its 
The  interior  is  almost 
equally  interesting.  The 
panelled  drawing-room  on 
the  second  floor,  overlook- 
ing the  river,  is  a  charming 
chamber  with  an  atmos- 
phere of  nobler  days;  and 
many  of  the  mantels 
throughout  the  house, 
though  greatly  mutilated  by 
tenement  renters,  are  ex- 
cellent specimens,  worthy 
of  preservation.  Not  far 
away  is  the  old  Ball  resi- 
dence, and  others  equally 
valuable  as  specimens  of 
brickwork  and  woodwork, 
and  often  containing  superb 
old  staircases,^  not  so  re- 
markable for  their  adorn- 
ment (Charleston  staircases 


most      the  way,   Charleston   is  particularly  rich  as   a  city  —  some 
own.      of  the  designs  of  which  are  charmingly  simple,  others  being 

__^    highly  elaborate  and  worthy 

to  rank  with  the  best  work 


being  almost  invariably  of  plain  mahogany,  devoid  of 


of  Queen  Anne's  reign. 
Much  of  the  simpler  work 
in  wrought-iron  —  which, 
on  the  whole,  is  more  valu- 
able than  that  which  is 
more  elaborate,  in  that  it  is 
more  original — is  said  to 
have  been  the  work  of  an 
old  blind  slave,  who  at  one 
time  followed  the  black- 
smith's calling  in  Charles- 
ton. 

The  residences  of  old 
Charleston  which  are  still 
preserved  are,  for  the  most 
part,  quite  plain  externally, 
and  of  rather  forbidding 
mien.  High  walls  enclose 
their  courtyards,  over  the 
carv-     tops  of  which  the  antique  slave-quarters'  — which  with  their 


Judge  Thomas  Heyward's  House,  Cluircli  Street. 


iHkyward  House. — -The  Heyward  house  referred  to  on 
Church  .Street  is  now  used  as  a  bakery  and  is  situated  near  the 
corner  of  Tradd.  It  was  the  residence  of  Judge  Thomas  Hey- 
ward, a  signer  o£  the  Declaration  of  Independence  and  a  friend  of 
George  Washington's,  who  on  liis  Southern  tour,  in  1 791,  was  a 
guest  in  this  house.  At  that  time  it  was  one  of  the  most  splendid 
residences  in  the  city.  A  douljle-story  veranda  jutted  out  over 
the  street,  said  to  have  been  similar  in  general  style  to  that  of  the 
Horry  house,  corner  of  Meeting  and  Tradd,*  and  the  interior 
furnishing  was  second  to  none  in  the  city.  The  drawing-room  on 
the  second  floor  is  a  fine  chamber  containing  some  interesting 
features  still  in  excellent  preservation. 

Mrs.  ICdward  Willis,  a  devoted  Daughter  of  the  Revolution, 
placed  a  tablet  on  the  house  commemorating  the  visit  of  Washing- 
ton. 

•Plate  36,  Part  X. 


'  The  Elliot  Staircase. —  One  of  the  finest  staircases  in  the 
entire  city  is  that  of  the  old  Klliot  residence,  which  was  built 
before  the  Revolution,  and  is  now  the  offices  of  the  Charleston 
Waterworks.  This  stairway  of  solid  marble  goes  from  basement 
to  attic,  and  without  a  support,  except  on  the  side  towards  the  wall. 
The  upper  story  is  one  large  room  covering  the  entire  building, 
except  the  hall,  and  w'as  built  for  a  ball-room.  The  view  from  the 
window  looking  seaward  is  as  fine  as  there  is  in  the  city.  On 
the  side  of  the  main  stairway  is  a  private,  or  secret,  stairwav,  built 
in  the  solid  masonry,  with  an  opening  on  each  floor.  Servants  in 
showing  a  guest  would  conduct  him  to  the  foot  of  the  main  stair- 
way and,  directing  him  up,  would  meet  him  at  the  landing  on  the 
next  floor,  and  so  on  to  the  upper  story,  or  ball-room.  No  servant 
was  allowed  to  go  up  the  main  stairway  with  company. 

»  See  cut  of  Horry  slave-quarters,  page  39. 


CHARLESTON,  BETWEEN  ASHLEY  AND    COOPER. 


35 


red-tiled  roofs  are  a  touch  of  old  Spain  in  the  general  scheme 
of  construction  —  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  dwelling  and 
quarters  are  usually  of  brick,  the  former  being  often  rough- 
cast. Occasionally,  however,  they  were  of  black  cypress,  as 
in  the  case  of  the  old 
Drayton  house,*  on  South 
Battery,  which,  with  its 
richly-adorned  interior,  is 
one  of  the  choicest  Co- 
lonial specimens  in  the 
city. 

The  oldest  English 
houses  in  Charleston,  al- 
though most  of  them  are 
now  supplied  with  veran- 
das, which  were  found  to 
be  necessary  because  of 
the  climate,  were  origin- 
ally built  without  them, 
and  were  entered  from 
the  street  on  the  ground- 
floor,  as  in  the  case  of 
Mrs.  William  Mason- 
Smith's  house  on  Church 
Street ;  or,  at  most,  up  a 
high  stoop,  as  in  the 
Lord  William  Campbell 
house  ^  on  Meeting 
Street,  or  Hayne  house, 
just  across  the  way  from 
it.  The  Mason-Smith  house  has  long  verandas,  not  to  be 
seen  from  the  immediate  front,  running  along  the  entire  side 
of  the  house,  upon  which  the  full-length  windows  of  the 
different  rooms  open.     These  verandas  immediately  overlook 


mantels  of  which  are  not  unlike  the  one  in  the  drawing-room 
of  Brewton  House,  and  the  woodwork  throughout  is  exceed- 
ingly refined  and  quite  elaborate. 

Second-story  drawing-rooms,  by  the  way,  are  the  rule  and 

not  the  exception  in 
Charleston,  which  holds 
with  great  tenacity  to  its 
English  ideas  of  social 
life,  in  connection  with 
which  a  great  deal  more 
of  formality  obtains  than 
in  any  other  Southern 
city ;  and  the  line  be- 
tween social  and  business 
intercourse  is  very  closely 
drawn.  And  such  quaint 
Old  World  formality  !  A 
caller  entering  any  of  the 
old  Charleston  houses  is 
first  given  a  seat  in  the 
hall  —  which,  as  a  rule,  is 
cheerless  and  unattract- 
ive—  while  his  card  is 
presented.  If  his  mis- 
sion is  a  business  one,  or 
he  is  paying  a  visit  to  a 
masculine  member  of  the 
household,  he  is  asked 
into  the  library,  which  is 
usually  the  first  room  on 
the  first  floor  looking  out  directly  on  the  street.  If,  how- 
ever, he  is  to  be  the  guest  of  the  ladies,  the  servant,  returning, 
shows  him,  with  a  great  flourish  of  politeness  and  ceremony, 
upstairs  into  the  drawing-room,  which,  in  even  the  least  pre- 


Tombslone  of  .Mrs.  Benj.  Elliott  in  St.  Philip's  Churchyard.     [1767.] 


Tombstone  in  St.  Philip's  Churchyard,  Charleston.    [1789.] 


the  adjacent  churchyard  with  its  quaint  gravestones,  some  tentious  of  the  old  houses,  is  the  long  chamber  occupying 

of  which  seem  to  be  bending  their  necks  and  standing  on  tip-  the  front  section  of  the  second  story  and  may  be  either  a 

toe  to  peep  through  the  windows  into  the  cheery  rooms  just  stately  audience-chamber  with  vaulted   ceiling   and   a  rich 

beyond  the  dividing-wall.     The  drawing-room  of  this  house  display  of  woodwork  — as  in  the  case  of  the  Miles  Brewton 

is   a   long  double  chamber   on   the   second  floor,  the  two  house  before  referred   to— or  a  quaint  low  chamber  with 


Plate  14,  I'art  .\. 


"See  cut,  page  3.S. 


36 


THE   GEORGTAN  PERIOD. 


chair-boards,  the  freize  and  ceiling  of  the  room  being  elabo-  church  has  stood  since  1692,  to  where  the  portico  of  old  St. 
rately  adorned  with  delicate  patterns  in  plaster  or  putty  after  Philip's  looms  before  you  in  solemn  dignity  and  beauty,  you 
the  style  introduced  by  the  Brothers  Adam  about  1760,  chance  to  stop  in  for  a  moment  at  one  of  the  antiquities 
which  was  popular  in  Charles-  | »— ,  shops,  you  will  see  wonderful 


ton.''  Often  the  walls  were 
wainscoted  all  the  way,  and 
invariably  the  main  feature  of 
the  room  is  a  fine  old  mantel 
carried  up  to  the  ceiling. 

The  antique  mahogany  with 
which  these  rooms  are  fur- 
nished presents  a  study  in  by- 
gone fashions  both  interesting 
and  valuable,  and  the  walls 
are  hung  with  portraits  by 
Copley,  Flagg,  Savage,  Sully, 
Peale,  Trumbull,  Gilbert,  and 
many  other  Colonial  painters 
not  so  well  known,  men  who, 
by  the  way,  are  deservedly  ob- 
scure ;  with  miniatures  by 
Washington  Allston,  Malbone 
and  Fraser,  and  an  occasional 
St.  Memin  engraving  to  lend 
quaint  interest  and  complete- 
ness to  the  art  collection.  Nowhere  in  America  have  the 
families  inherited  for  generations  so  many  valuable  ohjets 
d'art,  which,  to  their  credit  be 
it  said,  they  have  appreciated 
and  clung  to  through  all 
changes  of  fortune.  No  one 
can  but  wonder  after  visiting 
at  different  classes  of  homes, 
all  of  which  were  stocked  with 
old  mahogany  and  hung  with 
quaint  portraits  of  different 
grades  of  excellence,  where 
the  antiquities  dealers  secure 
their  wares.  None  of  the 
families  seem  to  have  sold 
any  of  their  possessions  for 
generations.  And  yet  if,  on 
your  way  up  Church  Street 
past  the  little  Gothic  Hugue- 
not temple,  built  in  1841  on 
the    site   where   a   Huguenot 


old  four-posters,  carved  in  the 
celebrated  pineapple  pattern, 
or  with  wheat-sheaves,  or 
roses,  or  what  not ;  quaint 
wine-coolers  and  tidy,  light 
sideboards,  with  inlaid  trim- 
mings and  medallions  in 
lighter  wood,  that  the  dealer 
will  tell  you  are  real  Chippen- 
dales—  regardless  of  the  fact 
that  Chippendale's  work  was 
usually  massive,  and  he  is  said 
not  to  have  used  inlay — ; 
and  elaborately  carved  chairs 
which,  unless  you  chance 
to  know  the  diflerence,  he  will 
convince  you  are  real  Shera- 
tons going  at  a  sacrifice. 

By  far  the  richest  store- 
house of  old  furniture,  cera- 
mics and  art  in  Charleston,  as 
well  as  the  finest  piece  of  Georgian  architecture  in  South 
Carolina,  is  Brewton  House  '  commonly  spoken  of  there  as 

the  Bull-Pringle  house,  which 


1  Vol.  IV,  Page  8,  Figure  26. 

2  Some  of  this  mural  decora- 
tion is  said  to  have  been  imported 
from  Italy  and  by  skilled  hands 
has  been  attached  to  the  wall 
in  set  designs  by  means  of  brass 
tacks  that  are  adroitly  concealed. 

»l'lates  l.S-26,  Part  X. 

^ Miles  Brewton,  after  enjoy- 
ing the  comforts  of  his  new 
home  for  a  few  years  only,  was, 
together  with  his  entire  familv, 
lost  at  sea  and  his  property  in- 
herited liy  his  three  sisters.  One 
of  tliese,  Mrs.  Rebecca  Brewton 
Motte,  the  celebrated  Revolu- 
tionary heroine,  was  living  in  tlie 
house  during  the  Revolution, 
wlien  it  was  seized  by  Sir  Henry 
Clinton  for  his  headquarters  and 
later  turned  over  by  him  to  Lord 
Kawdon.  Its  occupancy  by  the  British  saved  it  from  destruction 
during  this  period  when  so  many  Charleston  liduses  were  burned 
and  sacked.     It  was  again   the  headquarters  of  the  enemy  dur- 


"••rssft^o 


A  Veranda  Entrant: 


surpasses  all  of  its  contempo- 
raries in  architectural  merit 
and  enrichment.  It  was  built 
in  1760  by  Miles  Brewton,*  a 
wealthy  Charleston  merchant, 
the  plans  and  most  of  the 
woodwork  being  imported 
from  England.  Although 
later  in  date  than  Shirley,  on 
the  James  River,  and  even 
than  Drayton  Hall,*  on  the 
Ashley,  which  was  built  in 
1742,  like  these  earlier  houses, 
it  is  a  notable  example  of  the 
two-story  porch  treatment  in 
Colonial  work ;  and  though 
a  town  residence  and  not  a 
manor-house,  as  in  the  other 

ing  the  Civil  War,  and  again 
saved  from  destruction  though 
considerably  damaged.  Mrs. 
Motte  is  associated  not  only  with  , 
the  history  of  this  place,  but  with 
that  of  two  others,  also  celebrated. 
One  of  these  was  her  home  on 
the  Congaree  (to  which  she  re- 
tired when  Brewton  House  was 
takenfromher),  wliich  was  shortlj- 
after  seized  by  the  British  and 
called  Fort  Motte,  and  which 
she  herself  fired  to  force  them 
to  evacuate.  The  other  was  a 
romantic  old  mansion  built  by 
her  on  her  rice  plantation  on 
South  Santee  called  '-Kl  Dorado." 
which  was  burned  a  few  years 
ago.  (See  illustration  to  article 
on  the  French  Santee  in  Part  XI.) 
One  of  Mrs.  Motte's  daughters 

married  Mr.  William  Allston,  whose  youngest  daughter  married 

William  ISull-i'ringle. 
5  Plate  39,  Part  X. 


CHARLESTON,   BETWEEN  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER. 


17 


two  instances,  it  is  no  less  a  Mecca  to  which   students  of 

Colonial  work  come  for  inspiration.     It  fronts  on  lower  King 

Street,  with  a  fore-court 

enclosed  by  a  brick  wall, 

15  feet  high,  flanking  on 

either  side  a  wrought-iron 

fence    in    the   immediate 

front,    which,    though 

lower   than    the   wall,    is 

rendered    even    less  sea 

lable  by  a  finish  of  feudal 

spikes  pointing  in  every 

direction. 

Entering  through  the 
fine  old  doorway,  cen- 
trally placed,  the  archi- 
trave of  which  is  sup- 
ported by  pilasters,  one 
finds  himself  in  a  stone- 
flagged  hall,  running 
through  to  the  rear  and 
dividing  the  lower  floor 
into  two  suites,  which 
might  be  termed  the  din- 
ing and  library  suites,  all 
the  doorways  leading 
into  which  have  rich  en- 
tablatures.  The  two 
halls  —  front  and  rear  —  the  dado  of  both  of  which   is  of 


From  this  landing  one  has  an  excellent  view  of  the  quaint 
old  courtyard  in  the  rear  with  its  set  flower-beds  and  wilder- 
ness of  fine  old  shrubs; 
and  its  even  quainter 
slave-quarters,  the  gabled 
end  of  which  suggests, 
curiously  enough,  a 
Gothic  temple. 

The  upper  hall  of  the 
Brewton  house  is  of  very 
dignified  and  elaborate 
character,  with  its  heavily 
pedimented  doors  to  the 
different  chambers,  and 
its  deeply  arched  en- 
trance' to  the  drawing- 
room,  which,  by  the  way, 
has  been  pronounced  by 
critics  the  most  beautiful 
Colonial  room  in  Amer- 
ica. This  drawing-room'' 
is  a  long,  most  lovely 
chamber,  with  its  rich 
dado,  lofty  panelled 
walls,  handsome  cornice, 
and  coved  ceiling;  with 
its  mantel  carried  up  to 
the   ceiling,  from  the  re- 


mote centre  of  which  hangs  the  most  elaborately  handsome 
dark  mahogany,  panelled,  are   separated   by  the   usual  flat      crystal  chandelier  to  be  found  in  any  of  our  Colonial  houses. 


Tile  Brewton  Slave  quarters  :  Side  \'iew3. 


archv/ay  supported  by  detached  columns  of  a  Doric  order, 
the  cornice  of  which  is  the  same  throughout.  Facing  you 
from  the  end  of  tlie  rear  hall  is  a  handsome  mahogany  stair- 
case'  of  two  flights,  with  gracefully  turned  banisters  and 
carved  stair-ends  and  a  half-pace  landing  at  the  end  of  the 
first  flight.  The  feature  of  this  landing  is  a  deeply  recessed 
three-light  window'  which  affords  ample  illumination  to  both 
the  upper  and  lower  passages  in   even   the  dullest  weatlier. 

'  I'late  25.  Part  X 
'Plate  20,  I'art  .\. 


A  peculiarity  of  this  chandelier  is  that  the  tall  glass  candle- 
shades,  intended  to  protect  the  burning  taper  from  any 
breeze  that  might  be  afloat,  are  still  perfectly  preserved  and 
occasionally  allowed  to  perform  their  function,  as  on  a  re- 
cent occasion,  when  a  reception  was  given  in  their  ancestral 
house  by  the  Misses  Pringle  in  honor  of  the  social  debut  of 
one  of  their  young  relatives. 

The   drawing-room  occupies   the   full   width   of   the   room 

3  I'late  24,  Part  X. 

*  I'lates  19-22,  I'art  X. 


38 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


below,  including  that  of  the  hall,  also,  and  is  lighted  by  five 
windows.  Three  of  these  overlook  King  Street  and  face 
3-ou  on  entering.  The  other  two  are  on  the  south  side  of  the 
chamber  and  between  them  hangs  a  French  mirror  of  great 
age.  Aside  from  its  architectural  value  this  room  could  not 
fail  to  interest  even  a  casual 
observer  in  that  it  is  a  verit- 
able museum,  the  contents^  of 
which  have  not  been  collected 
from  a  hundred  shops,  but, 
handed  down,  have  been  en- 
riched by  each  generation  of 
an  old  and  cultured  family. 
Not  the  least  important  of  the 
many  valuable  features  of  this 
museum  are  the  portraits. 
Over  the  mantel  hangs  a  Sully 
—  one  of  his  best  —  the  sub- 
ject being  the  grandmother 
of  the  present  owners  of  the 
house.  Occupying  the  place 
of  honor,  between  the  mantel 
and  the  entrance,  is  a  full- 
length  portrait  of  Mrs.  William 
Allston,    nee   Motte  —  their 

grandmother  —  in  her  brocaded  paniers  and  powdered  hair. 
This  portrait  was  executed  in  1793  by  E.  Savage,  who  spent 
considerable  time  in  the  United  States  making  studies,  which 


Window  opening  on  Veranda  of  the  Bull-Priiigle  House. 


1756:  and  on  the  mantel,  among  a  collection  of  valuable 
miniatures,  is  one  of  John  Julius  Pringle,  done  by  Charles 
Fraser,  who  ranks  with  Allston  and  Malbone  as  the  best  of 
our  American  miniaturists. 

At  the  time  Brewton  house  was  at  the  height  of  its  pristine 

splendor,  Izard  house,  just 
across  on  Meeting  Street  (not 
a  stone's-throw  away),  was 
another  scene  of  high  social 
life.  This  interesting  old  resi- 
dence, of  English  brick,  is  now 
looked  upon  as  a  Colonial 
landmark  and  is  pointed  out 
as  the  residence  of  one  of  the 
Royal  Governors.  And  so  it 
was,  its  official  occupant  being 
Lord  William  Campbell,  whose 
wife,  nee  Izard,  inherited  the 
house  from  her  father.  And 
from  it  Lord  and  Lady  Camp- 
bell escaped  by  way  of  a 
creek,  that  then  flowed  at  the 
rear  of  their  house  where  \\'afer 
Street  now  runs,  to  an  English 
man-of-war  in  the  harbor. 
The  Izard  house,  or  to  speak  more  popularly,  the  Lord 
William  Campbell  house,  although  quite  dissimilar  in  exter- 
nal design  from  Brewton  house,  is  not  unlike  it  in  its  general 


The  I.ord  William  Campbell  House. 


he  finished   at  his  leisure.     Not  far   away  is   a  portrait  of 
Miles   Brewton    himself,   done   by   Sir  Joshua    Reynolds   in 


ipURXlTUKi:.  —  In  an  article  on  the  "Customs  of  Old  Char- 
leston," William  C.  Whilden  writes  of  the  furniture  commonly 
used  as  follows  :  — 

"  In  the  corner  as  you  entered  the  door  in  the  dining-room 
stood  the  '  wine-cooler,''of  polished  mahogany,  inlaid  with  wreaths 
of  satinwood;  octagon  in  shape;  about  three  feet  high,  on  six 
spindling  stjuare  legs  ;  divided  inside  with  compartments,  each  to 
hold  a  bottle  of  wine  ;  the  centre  lined  with  lead  to  hold  ice  or 
water.  Being  on  rollers,  it  was  wheeled  up  to  the  side  of  the 
host  at  the  head  of  the  table  and  the  cooled  bottles  handed  out 
as  needed. 

"  The  sideboard,  with  its  large,  deep  drawers,  six  in  number,  and 
three  closets,  was  large  enough  to  contain  all  that  could  be  put 
into  three  or  four  of  the  more  fashionable  kind  now  in  use.  On  each 
side,  like  sentinels,  stood  the  slojiing-top  knife,  fork  and  spoon 
cases  lined  with  green  baize;  alongside  of  each  stood  the  silver 
bottle-stands  containing  cut-glass  decanters;  and  in  the  centre 
the  goblet  and  tumblers  for  daily  use. 


Tlie  Rhett  House,  Hassell  Street. 


interior  plan,  having  a  very  similar  staircase  leading  to  the 
second-story   hall,    at    the   front    of   which    sweeps   a   long 


"  On  the  mantelpiece,  in  the  centre,  was  the  snuffers  and  tray. 
On  the  end  of  the  mantelpiece  was  to  be  found  the  tinder-box  and 
flint  and  steel,  and  possibly  a  few  slips  of  lightwood,  the  end  of 
which  had  been  dipjjed  in  brimstone,  the  more  easily  to  obtain  a 
light  if  a  stray  spark  went  into  the  tinder-box.  The  mantelpiece 
itself  was  so  high  that  no  child  could  reach  it  without  mounting 
on  a  chair,  and  the  fireplace  large  enough  to  hold  what  would 
now  be  a  day's  supjilv  of  wood.  In  the  corner  stood  the  old 
clock  with  its  long  pendulum,  showing,  besides  the  dme,  the  day 
of  the  month,  the  condition  of  the  moon,  the  rising  of  the  tide 
and  of  the  sun,  with  '  iMade  by  John  Carmichael,  Glasgow,  Scot- 
land,' across  its  face." 

2  RnETT  HousK.  —  This  house,  on  Hassell  Street,  is  one  of  the 
oldest  residences  in  Charleston.  Its  first  occupant  was  Col.  Wil- 
liam Rhett,  one  of  the  officers  of  the  Lords  Proprietors  of  South 
Carolina.  Colonel  Rhett  is  one  of  the  heroes  of  Southern  legend, 
for.  in  1S17,  he  captured  the  notorious  Steed  Bonnet  and  his  pirate 
crew  that  liad  been  for  some  time  an  unliearable  nuisance. 


CHARLESTOX,   BETWEEN  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER. 


39 


drawing-room,  the   ceiling   of  which    is    decorated 
elaborate  design  executed  in  putty. 

Across  the  street  from  the  Lord  Campbell  house 
house,  said  to  have  been  the 
pre-Revolutionary    abode    of 
the   martyr    Hayne ;    but  a 
close  examination  of  records 
refutes  this  claim.     The  house 
itself,  however,  is  undoubtedly 
old  and  very  pleasing,  the  en- 
trance* to  which,  though  ex- 
tremely simple,  is  one  of  the 
best  specimens  of  its  kind  in       ^ 
Charleston.      A   little  farther       ^ 
up  Meeting  Street  is  the  Na-       ; 
thaniel  Russell  house  ^  (now  a       r 
convent)  before   referred   to ; 
and   still   farther    on,   at    the 
corner  of  Meeting  and  Tradd, 
with  its  quaint  Venetian  porch 
extending  over  the  sidewalk, 
is  one  of  the  former  abodes 
of  the  celebrated  Mrs.  Daniel 


with   an      "  Hampton,"  Mrs.  Horry's  rice  plantation  on  the  South  San- 
tee.     This  residence  of  Mrs.  Horry's  is  said  to  have  been 
is  Hayne      built  about  1790,  and  the  date  is  probably  accurate  enough, 

for  in  the  Charleston  Gazette, 
of  April  23,  1787,  there  is  an 
account  of  the  burning  of 
Mrs.  Daniel  Horry's  residence 
of  Broad,  which  catastrophe 
must  have  led  to  the  building 
of  the  Meeting  Street  house. 
All  the  walls  in  it  are  of 
painted  wood,  panelled,  pre- 
sumably cypress.  The  hall, 
which  is  divided  into  two  parts 
by  a  central  arch,  separates 
the  lower  floor  into  two  suites, 
and  the  staircase,  which  is  in 
two  flights,  leads  to  the  more 
elaborate  upper  hallway, 
which,  in  turn,  leads  to  where 
formerly  the  drawing-room 
lay,  the  partitions  of  which 
have   been    removed.      The 


MEETING  STREET- 


Plan  of  the  Horry  House  and  Out-bmldings. 


5l&ve  Qutjxten?  ofttie 
Horry    House 


Meeting  5t  •  C^mrleston  &'  C 


Horry  (pronounced  O-ree),  of  French  Santee,  one  of  whose 
friends  was  no  less  a  person  than  Gen.  Francis  Marion  him- 
self. In  f.ict,  tradition  says  that  it  was  from  the  window  of 
this  house'  that  General  Marion  made  his  famous  jump; 
but  tradition  is  again  in  error,  though  there  is  no  doubt  of 
the  fact  that  he  narrowly  escaped  capture  by  the  British  at 
> See  cut,  paKe36.  "  l'l:ite  12,  I'art  X. 


pediments  to  the  doors,  the  cornice,  and  other  decorative 
woodwork  are  all  exceedingly  good,  though  simple  ;  and  the 
quaint  old  kitchen,  wash-rooms,  and  servants'  quarters,  to- 
gether with  the  bricked  courtyard  —  cut  off  from  the  view  of 
passers-by  by  a  high  brick  wall  — •  are  typical  of  the  domestic 
habits  of  the  period  the  old  house  represents. 

8  I'late  36,  I'art  X. 


40 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Following  Meeting  Street  to  the  north  after  leaving  the  south  and  the  Bay  toward  the  east,  one  has  before  him  the 
Horry  house/  one  soon  finds  one's  self  within  the  sacred  whole  of  oldest  Charleston,  although,  strange  to  say,  the  very 
shadow  of  St.  Michael's,  which,  by  the  way,  is  best  seen  oldest  structure  in  this  city  —  an  antique  powder-magazine, 
when  coming  down  Meet- built    by    Sir    Nathaniel 


ing  Street  toward  the  Bat- 
tery, on  a  moonlight  night 
when  the  mellow  white- 
ness of  its  tower  melts 
into  the  luminous  soft- 
ness of  the  sky,  casting 
the  while  a  vivid  shadow 
on  the  street  below. 

From  St.  Michael's 
corner,  looking  down 
Broad  Street  toward  East 
Bay,  0176  has  an  excel- 
lent view  of  the  old  Cus- 
tom-house, completed  in 
1 77 1,  which  is  one  of  the 
well-known  Colonial 
buildings  of  America. 
Formerly  it  boasted  a 
sort  of  cupola  (see  rough 
sketch,  from  the  tower 
of  St.  Michael's  Church, 
Part  IV,  p.  23,  Fig.  95), 
which  has,  however,  been 
removed.^ 

Standing  here  on  St. 
Michael's  corner  —  where 
until  i723stoodSt.Philip's 
Church  ^  (a  plain  structure 
of  black  cypress  on  a 
brick  foundation)  when  a 


^^^s^^^k^m^ 


The  old  Powder  Magazine. 


Johnson,  in  1703,*  is  far 
away  on  an  obscure  lot 
on  Cumberland  Street, 
where  it  was  located  — 
Cumberland  Street  being 
then  a  forest  primeval  — 
for  the  excellent  reason 
that  there  it  was  out  of 
harm's  way.  At  the  time 
of  the  Revolution,  and 
prior  to  it,  the  land  north 
of  Broad  Street  was 
thinly  settled  as  far  as 
Hassell ;  but  from  there 
on  it  was  open  country 
with  plantations  scattered 
through  it.  The  growth 
of  the  city  in  that  direc- 
tion must  have  immedi- 
ately followed  the  De- 
claration of  Independ- 
ence, however,  for  Flynn's 
Church  ^  (Second  Presby- 
terian) fronting  Wragg 
Square  and  occupying 
the  highest  point  in  the 
city,  was  built  in  18 11, 
and  St.  Paul's  Church 
(Part  III,  Plate  11)  was 
completed  in    1816,°  and 


new  one  of  the  same  name  was  erected  on  the  site  where  St.      city  churches  are  seldom  placed  elsewhere  than  in  localties 
Philip's  now  stands  —  and  looking  toward  the  Battery  on  the     that  are  well  populated  and  convenient. 


1  Plate  36,  Part  X. 

'  The  Commissioners  of  the  Province  of  South  Carolina  signed 
articles  of  agreement  with  Peter  and  John  Horlbeck  for  the  erec- 
tion of  an  Exchaiti^e  and  Custom  House  and  a  new  "  Watch 
House'''  \\\  1767,  and  the  Horlbeck  brothers  left  at  once  for  Eng- 
land to  obtain  materials  for  its  erection.  The  building  was  com- 
pleted in  I77l,the  I  lorlbetks  receiving  in  payment  241,740  pounds 
currency  [.«V].  When  completed  it  became  the  general  lousiness 
mart  of  Charleston,  and  so  continued  for  many  years.  During  the 
occupation  of  the  city  by  the  British,  its  lower  floors  were  used  as  a 
prison,  and  in  one  of  the  rooms  Col.  Isaac  Hayne  was  confined 
and  thence  taken  to  execution. 

Afterwards  the  vaults  were  used  as  vendue  stores,  until  the 
building  of  the  present  Vendue  Range,  and  the  rest  of  the  building 
as  post-oflice  and  custom-house.  The:  situation  becoming  un- 
safe in  the  late  war,  it  was  deserted,  and  fell  almost  to  ruin;  but 
it  was  afterwards  repaired  and  the  Post-office  reestablished  in  it. 

The  front  was  originally  on  the  east  side,  and  wings  extended 
out  on  ICast  Bav,  but  as  these  obstructed  the  street  they  were 
taken  down  and  the  front  changed  to  the  western  side.  More  re- 
cently, the  roof  being  much  out  of  repair,  the  cupola  and  some  of 
tlie  ornamental  work  were  removed,  but  the  building  still  presents 
an  imposing  appearance,  and  its  historic  associations  make  it  an 
object  of  much  interest.  On  December  14,  1S99,  the  117th  anni- 
versary of  the  evacuation  of  Charleston  by  the  British,  the  Society 
of  the  Sons  of  the  Revolution  placed  a  bronze  plate  on  the  west- 
ern wall  recording  the  many  historic  incidents  of  the  location. 
I'he  building  is  now  used  by  the  U.  .S.  Light-house  Establishment. 

The  original  contract  for  the  building  is  now  in  the  possession 
of  Maj.  John  Horlbeck,  of  Charleston. 

The  (iovernors  of  South  Carolina  were  proclaimed  from  the 
stejjs  of  the  Exchange  as  long  as  Charleston  remained  the  capital 
of  the  State. 

^  St.  I'hili])'s  I'arisli  was  the  first  established  in  South  Carolina. 
In  I  75 1,  the  town  was  divid;;d  into  two  jiarishes,  tlie  .second  being 
called  St.  Michael's. 


*  This  old  Colonial  relic  —  a  little  older,  perhaps,  than  the 
powder-magazine  at  Williamsburg,  built  by  Alexander  Spotswood 
early  in  the  eighteenth  century  (\'ol.  II,  page  20),  is  a  small  brick 
building  with  four  gables  and  a  tiled  roof.  As  early  as  1770,  an 
act  was  passed  directing  its  disuse,  but,  the  war  coming  on,  powder 
was  stored  in  it  until  the  siege  of  Charleston  in  i  7S0.  It  was  then 
abandoned  and  became  private  property,  which  it  still  is. 

sFlvxx's  Church.  —  On  May  16,  1S06,  the  plan  of  Flynn's 
Church  was  placed  before  the  building-committee,  by  William 
Gordon,  who  was  appointed  to  build  it,  and  early  in  181 1  it  was 
ready  for  purposes  of  worship.  Although  it  was  never  finished 
the  cost  of  building  amounted  to  over  g  100,000.    Plate  31,  Part  X. 

°  St.  P.aui/s  Chi'rch,  R.\dcliffeboro.  —  The  congregation 
of  St.  Paul's  was  organized  in  1810,  under  the  Rev.  Dr.  Percy.' 
They  worshipped  at  first  in  the  Huguenot  Church,  then  unoccu- 
pied. The  congregation  was  incorjwrated  December  2  1,  1814, 
and  the  first  Vestry  elected  in  1S15.  The  corner-stone  of  the 
church  was  laid  November  19,  181  i,  and  the  building  consecrated 
March  28,  1S16. 

The  style  of  its  architecture  is  modern,  with  a  Gothic  tower  : 
the  front  is  adorned  with  a  handsome  portico,  composed  of  four 
Doric  columns  supporting  an  angular  pediment.  This  is  the 
largest  Episcopal  church  in  the  city;  formerly  it  was  furnished 
with  the  old-fashioned  square  pews,  but  these  have  been  replaced 
by  modern  and  very  comfortable  low  pews,  the  effect  of  which  is 
to  add  to  the  spacious  appearance  of  the  interior. 

Dr.  Percv  was  an  English  clergyman,  who  came  first  to  Georgia 
in  1772  to  take  cliarge,  as  President,  of  the  College  which  was  es- 
tablished at  Bethesda,  ten  miles  from  Savannah,  by  Whitfield. 
Whitfield  bequeathed  it  to  Lady  Huntingdon,  who  appointed  Dr. 
Percy  to  the  Presidency  and  sent  him  to  America  with  missionary 
instructions  to  officiate  wherever  he  could  collect  an  audience.  It 
is  said  that  while  in  Georgia  he  frequently  preached  in  the  fields 
under  the  shade  of  a  tree.  —  Guide  Hook. 


CHARLESTON,  BETWEEN  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER. 


41 


As  a  matter  of  fact,  all  of  Ciiarleston  is  old,  and  the  houses 
in  the  northern  portion  of  the  city,  although  not  Colonial, 
are  almost  invariably  either  modifications  of  the  San  Do- 
mingo idea,  or  specimens  of  the  Greek  revival,  as  in  the  case 
of  Ancrum  House,'  on  the 
corner  of  Meeting  and  Char- 
lotte Streets,  which,  with  its 
dignified  Greek  portico  (to 
the  side,  of  course,  in  defer- 
ence to  the  European  idea  of 
what  kind  of  a  formal  front  a 
house  should  make  to  the 
street)  and  its  high  wall  over- 
grown with  a  flowering  vine 
inclosing  a  formal  garden, 
needs  but  a  touch  of  foreign 
color  to  change  it  into  an 
Italian  villa.  Another  and 
more  ample  monument  to  the 
Greek  revival,  as  conventional- 
ized for  domestic  purposes,  is 
furnished  in  the  Witte  resi- 
dence'' on  Rutledge  Avenue, 
which  was  designed  by  an 
English  architect,  in  1810,  for  two  English  bachelors  of 
Charleston.  Neither  of  them  lived  in  it,  however,  for  the 
death  of  one  caused  the  other  to  sell  it  immediately  on  its 


Plan  of  the  Witte  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


its  architectural  beauties.  The  library  and  breakfast-room 
are  the  principal  features  of  the  ground  Hoor  where  one  en- 
ters ;  and  the  drawing-room  and  dining-room  the  features  of 
the  second  floor.     The  former  chamber  is  most  ornate,  with 

an  arched  ceiling  supported 
by  fluted  columns  almost 
Byzantine  in  feeling.  The 
staircase  is  quite  circular  and 
the  second-story  hall  is  deco- 
rated just  below  the  frieze 
line  with  medallions  in  plaster 
showing  studies  of  American 
game  in  cover. 

This  house  is  said  to  have 
cost  a  large  sum  of  money 
which  one  can  readily  believe, 
for  the  plan  is  an  ambitious 
one,  and  it  was  erected  at  a 
period  when,  having  recovered 
from  the  ravages  of  the  Revo- 
lutionary War,  the  town  and 
State  had  entered  on  the 
period  of  their  greatest  pros- 
perity. With  the  rich  rice 
and  cotton  lands  of  Carolina  yielding  not  only  abundance, 
but  wealth ;  with  commerce  on  the  high-seas  and  trained 
slaves  meeting  every  demand  of  domestic  life,  land-owners 


Drawing-room  of  the  Witte  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


completion.     The  house  stands  with  one  end  to  tlie  street  in      naturally  turned  their  attention  to  building  both  in  town  and 

the  midst  of  large  grounds  through  a  portion  of  which  one      country. 

must  pass  before  reaching  a  position  which  affords  a  view  of  The  Post-Revolutionary,  however,  though  regarded  as  the 


>I'late  16,  Part  X. 


'J'late  16,  I'art  X. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


most  picturesque  period  of  Southern  life  because  of  tlie  unique 
institutions  that  matured  under  it,  and  though  it  developed 
great  fortunes  such  as  that  of  Gen.  Wade  Hampton,  of  Colum- 
bia, who  is  said  to  have  been  the  richest  planter  in  the  South 
and  the  owner  of  three  thousand  slaves  —  was  no  more  brill- 
iant socially  than  the  Pre-Revolutionary  period,  when  Euro- 
pean manners^  and  cus- 
toms prevailed  in 
Charleston,  which 
rivalled  every  other 
American  city  in  busi- 
ness activity,  and  sur- 
passed most  of  them  in 
domestic  luxury.  So 
much  so  that  Josiah 
Quincy,  of  Massachu- 
setts, who  visited  the 
city  in  1773,  wrote  as 
follows  in  his  journal 
intime :  — 

"This  town  [Charles- 
ton] makes  the  most 
beautiful  appearance  as 
you  come  up  to  it,  and 
in  many  respects  a  mag- 
nificent. ...  I  can  only 
say  in  general  that  in 
grandeur,  splendor  of 
buildings,  decorations, 
equipages,  numbers, 
commerce,  shipping, 
and  indeed  almost 
everything,  it  far  sur- 
passes all  I  ever  saw  or 
ever  expect  to  see  in 
America.  .  .  . 

"  All  seems  at  present  to  be  trade,  riches,  magnificence 
and  great  state  in  everything ;  much  gaiety  and  dissipation. 
.  .  .  State  and  magnificence,  the  natural  attendant  on 
great  riches,  are  conspicuous  among  the  people.  .  .  . 
There  being  but  one  chief  place  of  trade,  its  increase  is 


1  Funeral  Customs.  —  Although  most  of  the  old  customs  are 
still  honored  in  Charleston,  that  of  serving  refreshments  at  funerals 
is  now  obsolete.  William  (;.  Whilden,  in  his  "  Reininisceitce" 
speaking  of  the  passing  of  cake  and  wine  on  such  occasions,  says : 

"  It  was  done  with  great  solemnity.  A  cake  called  funeral  cake 
was  sometimes  used,  cut  into  Ijlocks  and  iced  all  around.  Tlie 
custom  arose  probably  early  in  the  settlement  of  the  countrj-. 
The  friends  frequently  had  to  come  for  miles  (scattered  as  they 
were  on  their  plantations),  and  to  make  a  feast  would  have  been 
out  of  place. 

"  On  arriving  at  the  house,  the  ladies  were  shown  into  one  room  ; 
the  gentlemen  into  another.  The  hats  of  tlie  latter  were  taken 
charge  of  by  a  servant  and  turned  over  to  ladies  who  were  Ijusily 
emploved  putting  a  band  of  crape  around  each  and  two  streamers 
al)Out  three  feet  long  from  the  back.  A  pair  of  black  or  white 
gloves  were  also  distributed  to  each  person.     The  ladies'  bonnets 


amazingly  rapid.  The  stories  you  are  everywhere  told  of 
the  rise  in  the  value  of  lands  seem  romantic ;  but  I  was 
assured  that  they  were  facts." 

That  Charleston  should  have  taken  rank  as  asocial  centre 
of  the  New  World  at  so  early  a  period  was  largely  due  to  the 
fact  that  so  many  of   the  English   colonists  who  settled  it 

were    Cavaliers,  friends 

of  the  Lords  Proprie- 
tors, with  large  means 
at  their  disposal ;  men 
who  sought  to  repro- 
duce in  America,  so 
far  as  could  be  done 
under  different  condi- 
tions, both  the  archi- 
tecture and  the  social 
and  domestic  customs 
to  which  they  were  ac- 
customed —  and  s  u  c  - 
ceeded  better  than  most 
of  their  contempora- 
ries. These  early  colo- 
nists were  enthusiastic 
builders,  and  but  for 
the  ravages  of  two  wars, 
in  both  of  which  this 
historic  city  played  a 
conspicuous  part,  nu- 
merous general  confla- 
grations, and  the  earth- 
quake of  1886,  Charles- 
ton would  have  more 
high-class  Georgian  ar- 
chitecture to  show  than 
almost  any  other  city  in 
the  United  States.  As 
it  is,  though  the  greater  part  of  her  most  splendid  buildings 
have  been  destroyed,  what  remains  is  often  of  a  superior 
quality  and  in  many  instances  uniquely  interesting. 

C.    R.    S.    HORTON. 


Entrance  to  Heywood  House,  Meeting  Street. 


were  covered  with  black  hoods,  and  a  cape  to  cover  the  entire 
shoulders. 

'•  A  master  of  ceremonies,  provided  with  a  carefully  prepared  list, 
took  a  prominent  position  at  the  foot  of  the  main  stairway  or 
elsewhere,  called  out  the  names  at  the  door  where  the  ladies  were 
assemljled  in  the  order  of  their  blood  relationship  ;  then  the  master 
of  ceremonies  called  out  the  names  of  the  gentlemen  to  escort  the 
ladies,  and  so  on  till  the  assembled  ladies  were  all  provided  for; 
the  remaining  attendants  fell  into  twos,  all  walking  through  the 
streets,  in  the  rear  of  the  hearse  or  on  the  pavement,  no  one  riding 
in  a  conveyance. 

"  At  times  the  coffin  was  borne  through  the  streets  bv  the  pall- 
bearers, and  no  hearse  used. 

"  At  a  funeral  at  the  Scotch  Church  once,  wine  and  cake  were 
handed  to  those  in  the  procession  as  they  stood  in  Meeting  .Street, 
on  the  sidewalk.  Some  funerals  were  preceded  through  the  streets 
by  what  were  termed  waiters  (namely,  two,  four  or  six  negro 
women  dressed  in  white,  with  a  black  scarf  over  the  shoulder 
reaching  to  the  knees)." 


An  Autumn  Trip  to  South  Carolina. 


q;C=^j]| 


IT  was  with  a  sense  of  profound,  if  temporary,  relief  from 
the  noise  and  restless  turmoil  of  cosmopolitan  New  York, 
that  I  metaphorically  shook  off  its  dust  from  my  feet  on 
a  close  and  oppressive  afternoon  in  late  September  of 
last  year,  and  boarded  the  steamer  for  Charleston,  S.  C,  a 
city  so  dimly  pictured  in  my  imagination  from  only  too 
scanty  descriptions  of  the 
earthquake  days  that  I  drew 
down  the  mental  curtain  and 
consigned  myself  to  a  couple 
of  days'  absolute  rest,  wonder- 
ing the  deep  waters  had  not 
sense  enough  to  rest  too. 
After  a  seemingly  endless  and 
nauseating    period    of    sensa- 


tionalism   in    the   daily  press, 

unfolding  the  corruption  and 

vice  of  the  city  under  Croker- 

ism  and  Tammany  rule,  it  was 

a  blessed  privilege  to  flee,  even 

temporarily,  from  this  modern 

Sodom    and    Gomorrah.      As 

the   evening    drew   on,    how 

bracing  was  the  cool  air  and 

how    welcome    the    silence 

brooding  over  the  deep  as  we 

slipped  down  the  Jersey  shore, 

just  far  enough  out  to  see  the 

blinking  lights  of  the  various 

summer  resorts,  without  their 

garishness   or   even    the  faint 

echo    of    their    noisy   crowds. 

Saturday   passed    refreshingly 

as  we  rounded  the  capes,  with 

a  good  sea   on,   and    Sunday 

morning  opened  sublimely, 

with  expectancy  on  the  faces 

of  all,  for  the  evening  would 

see   us    at    our    destination. 

Nor  were  we  disappointed,  for 

about  four  o'clock  we  slipped 

between  the  breakwaters  into 

the  beautiful    and    expansive 

harbor  and,  passing  the  historic  Fort  Sumter,  by  half  past 

five  o'clock  we  were  snugly  moored  alongside  one  of  the  old 

shaky  piers,  looking  down  into  the  faces  of  the  little  dusky 

crowd  peering  up  at  us  from  among  the  bales  of  cotton  and 

promiscuous  cargo  on  the  wharves. 

Th^  approach  to   the   city  is   disappointing,  wanting   in 
architectural  interest,  the  buildings  being  low,  the  city  itself 


lying  on  a  peninsula  as  flat  as  an  ironing-board,  between  the 
two  rivers,  Cooper  on  the  east  and  Ashley  on  the  west.  One 
looked  for  an  interesting  sky-line  and  found  none;  only  the 
two  steeples  of  St.  Philip's  and  St.  Michael's  broke  the  roof- 
line  and  pierced  the  azure  with  their  graceful  spires.  The 
only  building  on  the  water-line  to  attract  notice  is  the  new 

Custom-house,  with  its  stately 
proportions  and  colonnaded 
porticos.  Before  walking 
down  the  gang-plank  a  new- 
made  acquaintance  remarked 
as  he  bade  me  adieu:  "You 
won't  be  half  a  day  in  this 
dead  town  before  you  will 
wish  yourself  well  out  of  it." 

This  is  the  general  impres- 
sion of  business-men  passing 
through,  or  by,  historic  old 
Charleston.  The  interest  to  a 
stranger  depends  on  the  point 
of  view  taken.  Charleston  is 
only  awakening  from  a  long 
slumber,  the  natural  sequence 
of  a  series  of  paralyzing  cir- 
cumstances. The  wharves  of 
this  city  will  not  always  be  so 
silent  as  they  are  to-day. 
With  the  resuscitation  of  the 
South  her  commerce  is  bound 
to  revive,  and,  with  her  natural 
advantages,  we  shall  see  her 
roadsteads  alive  with  shipping 
and  the  silence  broken  with 
the  sirens  of  the  Transatlantic 
liners. 

Looking  at  Charleston  from 
the  Oisthetic  and  architectural 
point  of  view,  the  historic  city 
teems  with  interest.  Unique  in 
its  type  of  palatial  residences, 
with  amplitude  of  light,  air  and 
space,  it  is  of  the  past  that  it 
speaks,  and  a  past  to  be  proud 
of.  But,  desirable  as  is  a  new  era  of  prosperity,  one  quakes 
in  contemplation  of  the  changes  that  a  modern  affluence  will 
bring  in  its  wake.  Once  let  in  the  entering  wedge  of  North- 
ern energy,  capital  and  ideas,  the  steel  structure  and  sky- 
scraper, the  flat-roofed  abominations  of  the  modern  economic 
system,  will  quickly  eliminate  the  sense  of  leisure  and  rest- 
fulness  that  pervades  the  city  of  to-day. 


43 


44 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


After  leaving  the  steamer  and  after  a  shaky  ride  over  the 
cobble-stones,  we  were  deposited  at  the  Hotel  Charleston, 
and,  pending  the  late-houred  supper,  a  twilight  voyage  of  dis- 
covery was  in  order.  This  was  Sunday  evening,  and  the 
principal  streets  appeared  to  be  given  over  to  the  colored 
population,  who  in  summer  attire,  especially  the  young  folks, 
promenaded  with  an  importance  and  gaiety  entirely  their  own. 
Otherwise  the  city  seemed  deserted,  and  the  sense  of  strange- 
ness became  oppressive.  As  the  darkness  deepened,  the 
artistic  features  of  the  old  streets  were  intensified,  revealing 
more  of  incidental  worth  than  in  the  garishness  of  midday  ; 
high  walls  with  ramped  copings,  tall  gate-posts  and  great  heavy 
rustic  oak  and  iron  gates,  over  which  creep  lovely  vines,  and 
bevond  which  frown  the  dark  spaces  of  the  colonnaded  gal- 
leries, with,  may  be,  some  little  wicket  in  the  rear  opening  on 


was  not  to  be  seen  on  the  streets.  After  treading  the  streets 
in  and  out,  poking  around  church-corners,  astonished  to  find 
cemeteries  creeping  up  to  the  very  houses,  and  headstones 
almost  peeping  in  at  one's  dining-room  window,  it  was  with 
a  sense  of  the  general  mouldiness  of  the  city  —  an  eerie  feel- 
ing, arousing  one's  curiosity  for  the  morrow's  light  —  that  I 
returned  to  the  hotel.  True  to  my  friend's  prophecy,  I  was 
not  in  the  city  twenty-four  hours  before,  for  some  reasons,  I 
might  have  wished  myself  out  of  it,  for,  of  all  the  cities 
I  have  ever  visited,  never  was  there  culinary  capability  so 
behind  the  times,  never  was  one's  patience  so  put  to  test 
over  loss  of  time  in  replenishing  the  inner  man.  How  in 
the  world  the  visitors  to  the  Exposition  have  been  accommo- 
dated would  be  interesting  to  hear.  But  aside  from  this  little 
blemish,  the  interest  in  the  city  grows.     In  plan  practically 


Entrances  tn  the  Heyward  Estate,  ^^ectiIlg  Street.  Cliarleston. 


a  tree  embowered  lawn,  all  in  deep  shadow,  while  the  old  brick 
chimneys  and  Spanish-tiled  roofs  peep  over  the  trees  and  are 
silhouetted  against  an  amber  sky.  The  sidewalk  pavements 
are  rnostly  of  brick,  set  herring-bone  fashion,  with  a  deep 
curbstone  down  to  the  cobble-paved  streets.  The  gates 
are  threefold,  adjoining  the  front  door,  which  opens  upon 
the  side  gallery,  generally  a  few  feet  raised  up ;  first,  the 
private,  or  domestic,  gate ;  secondly,  the  carriage-gates,  and  a 
narrower  one  adjoining  for  the  servants,  which  used  in  slave 
days  to  be  closed  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  and  no 
colored  person  could  enter  after  that  time  without  being 
detected.  A  curfew-bell  tolled  at  half  past  eight  to  call  in 
the  colored  servants,  and  after  nine  o'clock  a  colored  person 


another,  but  Oid  Colonial,  New  York,  the  names  of  the 
streets  suggest  British  origin  and  dominion,  and  to  this  day  are 
tenaciously  preserved  and  cherished — -King  Street,  Queen 
Street,  Meeting  Street,  Church  Street,  etc.  Laid  out  at 
right  angles,  the  residence  plots,  or  blocks,  are  very  large, 
affording  spacious  gardens  and  courtyards.  Every  residence 
used  to  be  walled-in  with  high  walls  and  gates,  ensuring 
privacy  and  seclusion,  but  now  few  of  these  are  in  anything 
like  good  preservation.  As  an  old  Charlestonian  was  pleased 
to  put  it  to  me,  "  The  city  was  settled  by  the  English  and 
Huguenots,  they  intermarrying  you  have  the  American,  who 
cannot  be  whipped."'  The  city  is  essentially  English  in  its 
houses  and  customs,  its  domestic  life  and  its  tastes.  Theearliest 


AN  AUTUMN  TRIP    TO    SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


45 


houses  were  of  plainest  description,  sifltplest  in  plan,  front-  the  sensation  of  the  thing  was  that  could  make  such  an  odd 

ing  on  the  street,  the  entrance  opening  into  a  hall  dividing  piece  of  furniture  so  indispensable  in  every  household.     It 

equally  the  rooms,  right  and  left,  and  with  basement-kitchens  ;  was,  I  believe,  first  instituted  for  the  little  pickaninnies,  and 

but  as  the  Colony  progressed,  and  the  retinue  of  colored  help  consists  of  a  long,  two-inch-thick  pine  board,  say  twenty-five 

increased,  a  change  of  plan  developed,  and  the  typical  house  feet  long,  supported  on  two  framed  end  trestles  or  horses, 

evolved,  with  its  end  to  the  street,  its  front  opening  on  the  These  trestles  are  sometimes  fitted  on  rockers.     Well,  calling 


garden,  and  with  wide  gal- 
leries, or  verandas,  overlook- 
ing the  rear  of  its  neighbor. 
The  slave  or  servants'  quar- 
ters generally  were  in  a  brick 
extension  at  the  other  end  of 
the  house,  though  exceptions 
there  were,  in  which  they  were 
built  away  from  the  house, 
around  the  courtyard. 

In  the  city's  palmy  days  in- 
tercourse with  England  was 
the  rule,  not  the  exception, 
and  clothes,  furniture,  glass 
and  silverware  were  all  im- 
ported, as  were  also  the  wines 
—  madeira  and  sherry.  The 
madeira  was  always  stored 
in  the  attic,  for  the  benefit  of 
a  certain  condition  of  tem- 
perature. In  the  ciiy,  at 
least,  the  servants  were  al- 
ways well  clothed,  uniformed 
or  in  livery,  and  treated  like 
children,  as  indeed  they  were. 

The  kitchens  were  now  out- 
side  the   house   proper,    and 

the  meals  were  served  from  these  outside  kitchens  by  the  col- 
ored help,  through  the  medium  of  a  pantry  adjoining  the 
dining-room.  Thus  all  odoriferous  objections  were  elim- 
inated from  the  family  quarters.  Strange  it  was  to  note  that 
in  no  ancient  house  in  its  primitive  condition  did  I  observe 
any  toilet  or  bath-room  accessories.  The  valet  or  maid 
used  to  bring  up  the  bath-tub  and  then  the  water,  put  you  seemed  only  to  have  rounded  the  edges  more  invitingly. 
in  it,  if  you  liked,  rub  you  down,  and  carry  all  away  again.  Days  went  apace,  and  what  with  tramping,  sketching  and 

Talk    about    sanitation  —  what 


Dr.  Bemib's  House,  cor.  Meeting  and  Hudson  Streets,  Charleston. 


one  evening  at  the  house  of 
a  friend,  the  lady  asked  if  I 
would  not  prefer  to  sit  out  of 
doors  in  the  cool,  and  archly 
proffered  me  the  "joggling- 
board."  Assenting,  I  fear, 
with  dubious  air,  the  good 
lady,  who  represented  a  fair 
figure  in  avoirdupois,  took 
the  initiative  and  I  followed, 
when  with  an  alternating 
motion  of  up  and  down  we 
were  joggled  to  the  centre  of 
the  board  and  into  such  an 
embarassing  proximity  that 
only  an  explosion  of  laughter 
suited  the  occasion.  Now 
you  can  picture,  when  a  group 
of  youngsters  of  susceptible 
age  and  both  sexes,  in  the 
cool  of  the  evening  or  moon- 
lit night,  plump  themselves 
down  on  this  stout  but  pli- 
able plank  what  nonsense  and 
hilarity  they  get  out  of  it. 

But  for  absolute  fun  com- 
mend me  to  the  colored  pick- 
aninnies, and  even  their  elders,  the  aunties  and  uncles,  one  or 
more  thrumming  on  the  "  ole  banjo,"  the  others  taking  up 
the  chorus  of  "My  ole  Kentucky  Home"  in  melodious  song. 
No  darky  home  appeared  to  be  complete  without  the  jog- 
gling-board,  and  some  specimens  which  had  seen  ancient 
service  were  beautifully  put  together,  and  even  wear  and  tear 


could  be  sweeter  and  healthier 
than  that.'  Now,  what  is  it? 
An  impoverished  family  keep 
one  or  perhaps  two  servants,  or 
no  servant,  in  a  large  old  bar- 
rack of  a  house,  with  a  forlorn 
and  antediluvian  system  of 
kitchen  and  toilet-room  accom- 
modation. Think  of  the  transi- 
tion I  What  few  draperies  are 
left  are  moth-eaten  and  faded, 
carpets  threadbare  and  the  one- 
time garden  a  desolation  and 
wilderness.  But  there  are  the 
galleries  left  —  oh,  those  cool, 
shady  retreats,  with  their  wide 
sweeps,  and  which  you  can  pic- 
ture with  their  happy  and  lively  occupants  of  the  older  clays 


measuring  in  a  heat  that  some- 
times was  torrid,  evening  and 
its  cool  breezes  from  the  Battery 
overlooking  the  harbor  were 
very  grateful.  There  was  a  re- 
serve very  perceptible  in  the  at- 
titude of  the  residents  towards 
intrusion  on  their  secluded 
homes,  and  it  took  time  to  over- 
come this.  The  tourist  and 
kodak  fiend  had  in  their  over- 
presumptuous  recklessness 
caused  annoyance  aforetime 
which  was  resented ;  but  as 
soon  as  my  real  mission  was 
made  known  every  facility 
was  offered  and  kindly  courtesy 


extended  on  every  hand.  Still, 
it  was  regrettable  that  so  much  of  my  so  little  time  had  to  be 
Here  you  can  live  out  the  better  half  of  the  hot  summer  spent  in  awaiting  permission.  After  spending  a  couple  of 
days;  somewhere  you  are  pretty  sure  of  a  shaded  corner,  weeks  in  the  city,  I  made  the  visit  to  Georgetown  and  the 
swept  by  a  cool  breeze,  and  down  on  the  lower  gallery  the  Santee  district,  which  occupied  a  week,  and  then  returning 
sounds  of  a  merry  group  oT  youngsters  tell  you  of  the  good  spent  another  week  in  Charleston.  The  interval  and  change 
time  they  are  having  on  the  old  ''■  joggling-board."  This  was  of  scenery  acted  as  a  tonic  and,  returning,  helped  qualify  my 
an  article  entirely  new  to  me,  and  I  was  curious  to  know  wliat      first  impressions.     Strange  it  is,  but,  ever  and  everywhere,  it 


46 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


is  just  as  you  are  departing  you  see  more,  and  find  out  more, 
to  regret  tlie  limit  of  your  stay.  Wliat  are  tliree  weelis  in  a 
large  city,  single  handed  and  three-quarters  of  your  time 
being  talcen  up  with  those  necessary  but  provokingly  ob- 
jectionable adjuncts,  the  measuring-tape  and  foot-rule  ?  With 
so  much  to  tempt  one  to  brush-work,  it  was  hard  to  put  the 
palette  aside  for  the  severer  practical  work  of  measuring. 


standing  erect  besidyhim,  the  buzz  of  curiosity  as  they  enter 
and  leave  the  church,  the  rows  of  colored  people  who  occupy 
benches  around  the  sides  and  end  of  the  building  or  in  the 
galleries,  the  waiting  carriages,  the  old  beadle  with  gold- 
tipped  cane  escorting  the  dignitaries  thereto,  the  handshak- 
ing at  the  doors,  smiles,  congratulations  and  all  the  social 
amenities  of  the  time.     The  only  discordant  note  of  to-day 


The  Battery  and  the  Pe  Saiissure  House. 


Sunday  was  the  Sunday  of  our  forefathers,  and  in  its  de- 
corous observance  I  was  pleased  to  observe  that  the  colored 
population  appeared  entirely  devout.  In  this  most  English 
city,  how  I  enjoyed  the  Eng- 
lish service  in  the  old  churches  '■ 
of  St.  Michael  and  St.  Philip. 
After  nearly  twenty  years'  ab- 
sence from  the  old  country, 
here  was  a  rendering  of  the 
service  on  the  old  lines, 
awakening  cherished  memo- 
ries of  the  past  —  the  quaint 
old-time  edifice,  the  sweet 
bells,  the  mellow  tones  of  an 
organ  built  in  1767,  that  Han- 
del himself  might  have  played 
on,  the  high-decked  pulpit  and 
square  high-backed  pews, 
and  the  obsequious  old  sexton. 
Through  the  open  side  doors, 
through  which  a  flood  of  sun- 
shine poured  and  quaint  white 
tombstones  peeped,  came  the 
subdued  sounds  of  city  life, 
with  the  chirruping  of  the 
birds  and  the  perfume  of  box 

and  the  evergreen  shrubbery  of  the  churchyard.  It  is  easy 
to  picture  the  same  service  of  forty  or  a  hundred  and  twenty 
years  ago,  with  the  Ciovernor  and  his  retinue  occupying  his 
pew  near  the  pulpit,  perhaps   the    Father   of   his    Country 

'.See  .irtirlc  .ind  illustrations  in  i'art  .\'I,  seq. 


is  the  harsh  metallic  grinding  of  the  trolley-car  as  it  whizzes 

by  or  turns  the  corner  into  Broad  Street. 

If  you  wish  to  obtain  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  city,  a 

climb  up  the  tower  and  steeple 
of  either  church  is  well  re- 
warded, for,  in  the  absence  of 
any  natural  altitudes,  your 
vision  is  limited  to  the  per- 
spectives of  the  streets  and 
your  neighbors'  residences  on 
all  sides  of  you.  From  the 
church  steeple  you  look  north- 
ward away  over  the  city  to  its 
very  limits,  the  rivers  Ashley 
and  Cooper  stretching  on 
either  side,  exactly  as  do  the 
North  and  East  Rivers  about 
Manhattan  —  and  then  down 
over  the  roofs  and  into  the 
shady  and  spacious  gardens, 
squares  and  parks.  South- 
ward you  have  the  magnificent 
harbor  and  islands.  From 
S  this  altitude  you  realize  what 
^  a  magnificent  city  it  must  have 
been  in  its  palmy  days  :   truly 

patrician  in  its  character  and,  as  I  first  beheld  it  at  sunset,  a 

little  world  of  loveliness  in  itself. 

Of  the  two  church  towers  and  spires  that  of  St.  Philip's  is 

the  most  graceful,  while  that  of  St.  Michael's  suggests  state- 

liness.     Built  of  brick  and  roughcast,  its  cream-white  walls 


AJV  AUTUMN   TRIP    TO   SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


A7 


and  surfaces,  as  it  pierces  tlie  clearest  of  blue  skies,  are 
rather  dazzling  but  beautiful  in  effect;  and  again,  as  I  saw 
it  on  a  moonlight  night,  in  the  stillness  and  repose  of  ihe 


From  the  South  Carolina  Society's  Building. 

city,  the  memory  of  its  vicissitudes  set  me  dreaming,  to  be 
aroused  suddenly  by  the  sound  of  the  melodious  and  historic 


steeple,  placed  as  it  is  at  the  corner,  or  junction  of  two 
principal  streets,  dominating  every  building  and  feature  in 
its  vicinity,  that  charms  and  arrests  your  interest  whenever 
you  pass  it.  Were  I  asked  what  features  charmed  me  most 
in  Charleston,  my  reply  would  be  :  "  St.  Michael's  Church 
and  the  Miles  Brewton  house,"  better  known  as  the  Bull- 
Pringle  house.  And  as  I  was  privileged  to  sit  in  the 
old  Pringle  pew  on  Sunday  morning  the  harmony  of  the  re- 
lationship between  the  two  was  not  lost  in  my  musings. 

After  a  pretty  close  study  of  the  older  residences  here,  the 
absence  of  the  more  delicate  and  refined  ornament  of  the  Co- 
lonial type,  to  be  found  in  the  more  northern  States,  becomes 
evident,  and  more  or  less  disappointing,  with  one  exception, 
and  that  is  the  Brewton  ^  house,  which,  while  simple  and  plain 
in  its  plan,  sturdy  in  the  construction  and  stately  in  effect, 
is  beautiful  as  a  whole,  the  drawing-room  and  reception-rooms 
especially  so.  It  were  well  worth  the  while  that  the  whole 
house  should  be  measured  carefully,  and  not  a  mere  room  or 
two,  which  was  all  I  could  give  the  time  to,  and,  further, 
it  being  furnished  and  occupied,  the  concession  made  by  the 
lady  of  the  house  was  sufficiently  appreciated  without  putting 
her  to  more  trouble  and  disarrangement.  The  old  garden, 
now  very  much  circumscribed  in  its  area,  was  in  the  early 
days  a  vision  of  loveliness,  and  to  this  day  the  old-time 
tulips,  jonquils,  daffodils,  peonies,  send  up  their  perennial 
bevy  of  bloom  and  color,  while  ancient  wistarias  bend  the 
branches  of  stout  trees  with  their  weight  of  superabundant 
leafage  and  tassels  of  turquoise-blue.  During  the  earthquake 
this  sturdy  old  house  suffered  the  least  of  all,  only  one  wall- 
panel  being  cracked,  thanks  to  English-built  walls   of   two 


Interior  of  St.  Midiael's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


bells,  as  they  chimed  the  quarters,  followed  by  the  tolling  of      feet  six  inches  thickness,  while  those  more  recently  built  on 
the  hour.     There  is  a  fascination  about  this  church  and  its  i  plates  iS-26,  I'art  X. 


48 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


the  Battery  or  promenade  suffered  most,  due  to  their  sites 
being  all  "made  ground,"  in  fact  what  originally  was  swamp. 
Romance  suffuses  this  old  houpe  with  an  interest  far  in 
excess  of  its  neighbor's.  As  you  walk  the  garden-paths  it  can 
be  pointed  out  where  the  ruthless  Northerners,  after  churn- 
ing up  the  priceless  old  china  —  which  had  been  previously 
packed  by  loving  and  anxious  fingers,  for  safe  hiding  —  with 
the  butts  of  their  rifles,  then  strewed  it.  Though  occupied 
during  the  War  of  the  Revolution  by  Lord  Rawdon  and  his 
staff  as  his  headquarters,  little  damage  was  done,  compared 
to  the  ruffianly  treatment  of  the  Union  soldiers  ;  but,  after 
all,  considering  the  crises  it 
has  passed  through,  the  house 
is  wonderfully  well  preserved. 

Recalling  the  story  of  the 
occupation  of  the  Brewton 
house  by  the  British  officers 
and  their  courteous  treatment 
by  Mrs. Rebecca  Motte  and  her 
daughter,  —  on  the  day  after 
capitulation  she  entertained 
both  British  and  American 
officers  at  the  same  table  and 
won  golden  opinions  from  all — 
the  old  prayer-book  and  Bible, 
with  her  name  inscribed,  was 
bought  at  "a  book-stall  in  Lon- 
don by  one  of  these  same 
officers  and  returned  by  him 
to  Mrs.  Motte.  The  old  Bible 
is  still,  so  I  hear,  read  in  the 
quaint  little  Church  of  St. 
James,  Santee. 

Judge  Heyward's  house  on 
Church  Street  has  its  plan  and 
several  features  in  cotnmon 
with  the  Brewton  house,  but  it 
is  not  of  so  large  proportion, 
nor  are  its  enrichments  so  pro- 
fuse ;  but  there  is  a  sense  of 
comfort,  as  well  as  stateliness, 
in  the  drawing  room  measured. 
The  Horrey  house,  corner  of 
Tradd  and  Meeting  Streets,  is 
remarkable  for  its  double- 
decked  portico,  or  veranda, 
over  the  sidewalk,  supported 
on  stone  columns  of  Tuscan 
and  Ionic  orders,  while  within 

the  features  are  plain  and  substantial,  but  with  meagre  orna- 
ment, and  what  there  is  is  rather  coarse. 

The  Elliott  house  —  now  used  as  a  pumping-station  (the 
water-supply  is  from  an  artesian  well  two  thousand  feet  deep, 
and  is  pumped  into  a  little  reservoir  in  the  yard  ;  the  water 
is  quite  hot  when  first  pumped  up  but  is  allowed  to  cool  before 
its  distribution)  —  has  little  peculiar  interest  beyond  the 
ample  reception-hall,  from  which  a  central  flight  of  stairs 
conducted  to  an  upper  hall,  with  a  large  well  and  gallery 
on  all  sides  ;  but  this  has  been  cut  away  to  make  room  for 
the  pumping-engines.  The  rooms  are  very  spacious  and  the 
mantels  and  door-finish  and  cornices  of  the  general  type  of 
the  period,  /.  e.,  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

There  are  many  old  houses  which  have  historic  interest 
and  more  or  less  romance,  but  are  deficient  in  detail  worth 
carrying  away.     What  one  notices  in   traversing  the  length 


of  the  city,  — which  is  best  done  by  a  loop-line  of  the  trolley- 
system —  is  the  change  frem  the  earliest-planned,  or  English, 
type  of  house  downtown,  fronting  on  the  street,  and  the 
gradual  development  to  the  typical  Charleston  house  as  built 
before  the  war.  It  should  be  remembered  that  here  were 
the  summer  houses  of  the  rich  planters  who  found  it  un- 
wholesome and  impossible  to  live  out  the  summer  on  their 
plantations.  I  was  told  that  really  their  plantation-houses 
were  better  and  more  solidly  built  than  their  city-houses, 
which  were  intended,  after  all,  only  for  summer  use,  and 
under  these   circumstances    space,  light  and  air  were  their 

chief  requisites. 

The  Thomas  Ball  house  up- 
town, on  the  East  Battery,  is 
a  type  quite  common  ;  that  is, 
a  whole  house  built  only  one 
room  deep,  with  a  central  hall, 
with  front  and  rear  balconies, 
or  verandas.  Here  it  may  inci- 
dentally be  remarked  that 
there  are  several  of  these  ex- 
tensive old  barracks  which 
could  be  soon  converted  into 
more  comfortable  and  civilized 
houses,  and  are  to  be  rented 
for  a  merely  nominal  figure. 
There  was  one  fine  old  place, 
with  its  house-servants  and 
carriage-house  and  front  and 
rear  courtyards,  rented  for  only 
$25  per  month,  but  —  well,  that 
is  down  in  Charleston  ! 

One  of  the  old-time  features 
of  the  city  is  the  market,  of 
such  a  length  as  to  suggest 
walking  over  Brooklyn  Bridge, 
in  this  respect,  that  you  wonder 
when  it  is  coming  to  an  end. 
Its  terminal,  or  entrance,  is  in 
the  form  of  a  two-storied  Greek 
temple,  the  upper  story  being 
used  as  offices  and  reached  by 
a  double  flight  of  stairs,  the 
entrance  to  the  market  being 
through  a  wide  arch  under 
these.  Seen  at  its  best  —  on 
market  day,  or  night  —  it  pre- 
sents a  weird  aspect.  About 
fifty  feet  wide,  it  runs  in  four 
sections,  necessitated  by  four  intersecting  streets,  and  in  total 
must  reach  about  eight  hundred  feet.  A  broad  central  flagged 
walk  is  flanked  on  either  side  by  stalls,  in  appearance  like 
those  of  a  stable,  and  the  unbroken  monotony  is  remarkable. 
The  roof  is  a  simple  king-post  aiTair,  open,  and  adds  to  the 
endless  perspective.  But  the  strangest  feature  to  Northern 
eyes  is  the  presence  of  those  natural  scavengers,  the  buzzards, 
who  make  their  appearance  only  during  market-hours,  and 
at  its  close  take  their  flight  to  their  own  eyries.  To  see  them 
in  their  descent  from  the  roof  to  the  cobblestones  after  some 
bit  of  carrion  is  very  attractive;  they  come  down  with  such 
a  clumsy  swoop  you  expect  to  see  them  tumble  and  break 
their  necks ;  but  no,  with  a  sweeping  curve  close  to  the 
ground  they  alight  like  thistledown  and  run  with  such  side- 
long gait  and  so  swiftly  that  you  cannot  restrain  a  laugh. 
In  some  of  the  later  houses,  as,  for  instance,  the  Russell, 


A.V  AUTUMN  TRIP    TO   SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


49 


the  Witte  and  others,  a  unique  feature  is  the  staircase,  whicli 
is  built  in  a  circular  or  oval  plan,  and  self-supporting  from 
the  ground  it  rests  upon  to  the  landing  on  the  next  floor, 
independent   of   the    walls, 
which  it  does  not  touch,  sav- 
ing a  good  deal  of  space  and 
generally  placed  so  as  to  af- 
ford a  roomy  rear  hall. 

Some  pleasant  side-trips  are 
to  be  made  from  Charleston, 
by  boat  or  trolley,  as,  for  in- 
stance, to  the  Lowndes,  or 
Waggoner,  homestead  on  the 
Ashley  River,  used  during 
the  Exposition  as  the 
Woman's  Building  ;  also  the 
TurnbuU  and  Lawton  estates, 
the  former  metamorphosed  by 
municipal  authorities  for  park 
purposes,  and  the  latter  in- 
cluded in  the  site  for  the 
Naval  Station,  the  house,  I 
believe,  being  originally  in 
the  possession  of  the  Izard 
family.  Other  excursions  by 
train  and  yet  within  reach  of 
an  hour  or  two's  journey,  are 

Goosecreek    Church    and    Mulberry  Castle,  on  the    Cooper 
River,  and  Pompion   Hill  Church   and  Drayton  Hall,  on  the 


rlie  Tliomas  Ball  House,  Charleston,  S 


its  past,  but  there  is  scarcely  an  estate  upon  which  the  in- 
scription 'Ichabod"  could  not  be  appropriately  placed  on 
its  gate  posts.     Without  the   help,  the  spacious  gardens  are 

but  poorly  kept  up,  and  reflect 
the  all-pervading  decay.  As 
you  behold  all  these  big  man- 
sions, and  after  talking  with 
their  owners,  you  are  mani- 
festly impressed  with  the  dis- 
tinction of  having  a  grand- 
father who  helped  to  make 
history,  but  reflect  that  this 
they  did  because  they  could 
not  very  well  help  doing  so, 
and  while  these  good  people 
have  been  dreaming  of  their 
family  trees,  the  Northerners 
have  been  studiously  pushing 
a  way  for  their  sons  and 
daughters. 

Among  the  pleasurable  trips 
from  Charleston,  a  visit  to  and 
a  stay  of  a  few  days  in  old 
Georgetown  —  so  intimately 
connected  with  the  older  fami- 
lies of  that  city  —  well  repays 
one,  and  it  is  from  there  the 
trip  through  the  Santee  district  is  made.  Situated  as  it  is 
about  sixty  miles  (as  the  crow  flies)    northeast  and  on  the 


Tlie  Charleslon  ^rarl<et  [1841]. 


Ashley  River.     The  latter  house  I  regretted  my  inability  to  coast  — or,  more  strictly,  on  Sampit  Creek  —at  the  junction 

see,  as  the  place  was  closed  up  and  the  family  away.  of  the   151ack  and  Waccamaw    rivers,  as  they  open   into  the 

To  sum   up  my  impressions  of  Charleston  :   I   found   it   a  sea,  one  should  in   these    days  make  the  journey  in  about 

proud  old  city,  with  every  evidence  of  wealth  and  luxury  in  two  hours,  whereas  the  trip  consumes    four  or    five    hours. 


so 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


The  first  half  of  the  journey  is  by  the  main  line  (Atlantic      hand.     After  some  vigorous 

Coast    Line)    to    Lane's    Junction,  talcing  you    through    St.      the  dinner-bell,  rung  by  a  col 

Stephen's,    across    the   Saiitee 

River,  due  north,  and  then,  in 

the   shakiest    and    dirtiest    of 

makeshift  railroad-cars,  you  are 

jolted  or  joggled  along  to  your 

destination,  with  a  stop  every 

five  or  eight  minutes,  now  for 

a  word  between  the  conductor 

and  some  planter,  who  rides  up 

to   the    crossing    to   pass   the 

time  of  day  ;  then  to  take  on 

an  odd  bale  of  cotton  ;    anon 

to   embark   a   colored   woman 

with  a  basket  of  eggs,  or  some 

woful  chickens  ;  again  we  stop 

just  to  stretch  our  limbs,  or  for 

the  engine  to  take  water,  and 

indeed    so    thirsty   did    that 


The  Elliott  House,  Charleston. 


ablutions  you  are  glad  to  hear 
ored  waiter  —  with  a  vigor  only 
equalled  by  an  English  railway- 
porter's —  on  the  piazza,  right 
on  the  sidewalk.  I  fully  ex- 
pected tlie  whole  town  to  come 
up  with  a  rush  and  recalled  the 
parable  of  the  five  loaves  and 
two  small  fishes  amongst  the 
multitude;  but  my  fears  were 
baseless.  The  company  was 
limited,  and  suffice  it  that  I 
found  more  hearty  fare  than 
at  any  hotel  —  not  excepting 
that  old  stand-by,  the  "Char- 
leston" of  Charleston  —  in  all 
my  trip.  Now,  this  was  a  little 
unpretentious  one-horse-town 
hotel,  but  in  the  limited  quar- 
ters designated  "  office  "  was  a 


A  Charlestrn  Gateway. 


locomotive  appear  that  at  last 
I  classed  it  as  amphibious. 

Dusty,  hot,  stifled,  at  last  one 
emerges  onto  the  platform  of 
the  Georgetown  station,  glad 
to  incarcerate  oneself  again  for 
a  brief  while  inside  an  ancient 
omnibus,  so  long  as  one  may 
be  put  down  at  some  hotel  — 
no,  not  at  that  lumber-barracks 
opposite  the  station  ;  but  away 
from  the  dusky  crowd,  in  the 
old  town — and  in  a  few  min- 
utes you  are  dumped  onto  the 
sidewalk  at  the  "Windsor,"  and 
a  genial  landlord  gives  you  a 
hearty  welcome  with  extended 


ilci.se  Gate  for  same  Estate. 


bookcase,  and  there  was  a  com- 
plete edition  of  the  '■^  Encyclo- 
picdia  Americaua "  flanked  at 
the  one  end  by  the  "  Holy 
Bible"  and  at  the  other  by 
"  Webster's  Unabridged"  with 
various  reference-books,  histo- 
ries and  commentaries  on  a 
lower  shelf.  Surely,  many  a 
more  pretentious  establishment 
might  take  a  hint  from  this, 
the  entirely  unexpected.  Nor 
was  the  privilege  shirked,  for 
many  times  I  observed  various 
drummers  poring  over  ency- 
clopa;dia  and  dictionary,  if  not 
the  Bible. 


AN  AUTUMN  TRIP    TO   SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


51 


Georgetown  divides  its  interests  :  there  is  the  long  main 
street  with  its  modern  store-fronts  of  frame  structure  and 
pushing  trade,  much  of  it  maintained  by  the  Hebrew  element, 
and,  on  the  other 
hand,  there  is  the 
restful  quiet  of  the 
residential  section, 
with  a  picturesque- 
ness  and  beauty  only 
to  be  found  where 
modern  changes  are 
eschewed.  Its  old 
houses  conserva- 
lively  preserved, 
though  boasting  lit- 
tle of  architectural 
detail,  fascinate  you 
with  the  mere  sug- 
gestiveness  of  their 
antiquity,  of  course 
accentuated  with  the 
Southern  features. 
Spaciously  laid  out, 
with  very  wide 
streets  or  boule- 
vards, old-time  gar- 
dens, and  revelling  in  the  shade  of  fine  old  oaks,  the  mem- 
ory recalls  it  as  a  dream  of  the  past. 


or  pine-woods,  now  transplanted  into  the  precincts  of  a  civ- 
ilized community,  assumes  in  the  frame  house  of  the  same 
plan  a  more  finished  appearance.     The  outside  chimney  at 

one  end,  instead  of 
being  constructed 
of  clay  or  short  in- 
terlaced logs  be- 
smeared with  clay,  is 
now  of  brick.  Pres- 
ently on  an  enlarged 
scale,  you  have  a 
hearth  and  chimney 
at  either  end,  and 
anon  a  double  story. 
The  house  is  now 
divided  by  a  narrow 
hall,  with  staircase 
in    the   rear.      With 


The  M.inigaiiU  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


increased  prosperity 
and  personal  impor- 
tance comes  the 
piazza,  first  single, 
then  double.  Again, 
to  better  facilitate 
domestic  require- 
ments, an  outbuild- 
ing is  erected  away  from  the  house,  and  then  a  small  covered 
gallery  is  needed  to  connect  with  the  house.     This,  as  the 


*  FriendficU 


near  Geori^etown,  S.  C. 


It  is  interesting  here  to  notice  the  growtli  in   plan   of  the      family  quarters  are  found  to  be  too  limited,  is  closed  in,  and 
older  houses.     The  ori<'inaI  rough  log  cabin  of  the  country      you  have  an  L,  and  so  on.     You  cannot  very  well  attach  this 


52 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


development  to  the  larger  houses,  but  it  is  noticeable  in  the 

dwellings  of  the  laboring  classes  and  of  the  colored  element. 

In  some  of  these  cottages  the  walls  are  wainscoted  to  the 

ceiling,  and  here  and  there  you  come 

across  a  finely  modelled  door-knocker 

or  other  suggestion  of  architectural 

and  refined  tastes.     Some  peeps  into 

the  interior  of  these  primitive  houses 

revealed  scrupulous  cleanliness  and 

neatness ;  here  and  there  evidences 

of  good  taste. 

The  old  church,  "  Prince  George 
Winyaw,"  is  still,  after  nearly  two 
hundred  years,  a  specimen  of  beauti- 
ful brickwork  in  English  bond  and, 
■with  its  quaint  tower  and  massive 
arched  window-heads,  embowered  in 
trees,  is  a  picture  from  any  point  of 
view.  The  old  market,  too,  with  its 
tower,  built  about  1840,  is  striking  in 
its  simplicity  and,  being  the  rendez- 
vous of  boatmen,  skippers,  towns- 
men, colored  loafers  and  the  ever- 
present  mule-cart,  makes  a  curious 
picture  to  Northern  eyes. 

From  Georgetown  a  visit  was 
made  to  "Friendfield,"  an  old  plan- 
tation-house about  six  or  eight  miles 
out  in  the  woods,  where  the  singular 
find  of  the  pictured  wall-paper  was 
made.  The  house  was  interesting  in 
plan,  but    appeared    to    be  rather  a 

patchwork  of  additions.  Strange  to  say,  while  I  had  heard 
of  the  name  of  this  amongst  other  plantation-houses  —  so 
many  of  them  burned  —  no  one  could  give  me  any  information 


Another  trip  that  was  as  pleasureable  as  it  was  interesting 
was  up  the  Waccamaw  River  (two  or  three  miles  wide),  in  a 
little  rowboat,  with  a  burly  negro,  half  a  dozen  or  more  miles, 
to  visit  "  Prospect  Hill,"  the  old 
home  of  the  Huger  family,  where 
La  Fayette  was  welcomed  and  en- 
tertained on  his  second  visit  to  this 
country.  I  believe,  too,  that  Wash- 
ington here  paid  a  visit.  After  a 
couple  of  hours  on  the  water,  we 
pulled  inshore  and  along  a  narrow 
canal  to  the  landing,  about  a  mile 
inland.  The  banks  of  this  canal, 
which  in  the  olden  days  were  well 
preserved  and  kept,  were  a  tangle  of 
riotous  vines  and  pampas-grasses, 
sometimes  overarching  us,  while 
on  either  side  stretched  the  wide 
rice-fields.  From  the  landing  a  tor- 
tuous path  led  up  the  hill  to  the  old 
house,  embowered  'mid  old  oaks,  a 
picture  of  sad  decay.  Evidences  of 
a  once  richly  cultivated  garden  were 
everywhere.  Ivy  climbed  the  walls 
and  hid  the  old  stone  stairs  to  the 
piazza,  with  its  wrought-iron  railing 
of  quaint  design.  The  house  was  of 
the  simplest  in  plan,  being  divided 
by  a  wide  hall  from  front  to  rear, 
the  house  being  two  rooms  deep. 
Shown  over  it  by  a  little  colored 
boy,  who  seemed  to  tip-toe  it  every- 
where and  spoke  in  mutifled  whisper,  the  silence,  with  the 
everywhere  apparent  desolation,  was  so  oppressive  that  only 
my  limited  time  in  which  to  get  my  sketching  and  measuring 


■■'-«fv/l"? 


:"S$ 


^"'"tstai^.' 


-/*"  Y  J 


%:"'^^' 


"  Prospect  Hill,"  on  the  Waccamaw  River  :  the  Rear 


about  it,  and  only  on  the  morningof  my  departure  did  I  man-      done  kept  me  to  my  task.     Afterward  rambling  around  the 
age  to  reach  it,  and,  so,  had  too  little  time  to  do  justice  to  it.      estate,  inspecting  the  different  outhouses,  smoke  and  baking 


AJV  AUTUMN  TRIP    TO   SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


53 


houses  and  the  site  of  the   farm-buildings  —  for  that  is  all  skipper  and  other  boats' companies  passing  half  a  mile  away, 

that  remains — I  was  glad  to  come  away,  sick  at  heart  in  and,    strange    to    say,   just    in    an    ordinary    voice,    which 

contemplating  the  ruthless   transition   from  the  days  of  its  would   be  answered  clearly   and  intelligibly  on  the  instant, 

one-time  prosperity  and  happiness.  All  this  section  of  country  was  once  a  veritable  garden  of 

The  row  back  was  a  relief  from  the  stifling  heat  and  op-  cultivation  ;  first  indigo,  then  rice  and  cotton  and  tobacco  ; 


The  Robert  J.  Turnbull  House,  near  Charleston,  S.C. 


pressiveness  on  shore,  and  though    the  little    flat-bottomed  and  it  was  the  proprietors  of  these  plantations,  with  their  fine 

cockleshell  of  a  boat  rocked  a  little  too  much  in  the  tidal  old  houses    and  retinues   of   servants,  who  helped  to  build 

current  midstream  for  one's  entire  confidence,  the  freshness  up  Charleston,    which   was  their  summer  home.     A  colony 

was  grateful,  while  it  was  interesting  to  take  note  of  little  of  Huguenots,  their  family  names  to-day  predominate,  and  of 

things  •  for  instance,  the  home  of  the  alligator  on  the  banks,  these  names  the  present  generation  is  justly  proud. 
and  the  genial  exchange  of  "How  d'ye  do's"  between  my  E.  Eldon  Deane. 


The  Charleston  Post-office. 


Romance  and  the  South  Carolina  Homestead. 


^^1^^ 


THE  genuine  Colonial  houses  of  the  South,  like 
the  respectable  gray-haired  servants,  are  becoming 
scarce,  but  certain  country-seats  dating  back  to 
days  before  this  nation  had  even  thought  of  a  house- 
warming  exist  yet  in  South  Carolina,  secluded  in  those 
parishes,  close  to  the  sea, 
where  the  first  colonists  got 
foothold.  The  young  house- 
keepers in  these  time-honored 
dwellings  would,  doubtless, 
willingly  exchange  them  for 
newer  quarters  less  congenial 
to  moths  and  spiders.  In- 
deed, the  old  homes  owe  their 
preservation  as  much  to  the 
substantial  construction  that 
defies  fire,  and  would  make 
the  tearing-down  a  task,  as  to 
veneration  for  their  character. 
But  to  the  person  of  romantic 
or    antiquarian    turn,    such    a 

place  is  eloquent,  and  merely   

to  cross  the  plain  stone  threshold  and  get  a  glimpse  of  the 
deep-sunk  windows  and  chimney-cupboards  is  to  slip  back 


Mulberry  Castle,  on  the  Cooper  River,  S.  C 


A  mansion  that  interests  strangers  is  Mulberry  Castle,^  on 
the  Cooper  River,  so-called  from  the  mulberry-trees  set  out 
for  silk  culture  by  an  enterprising  Governor  of  the  Province. 
The  house  bears  the  date  17 14  on  the  iron  vanes  which  cap 
its  towers.     The  vanes,  of  light  arabesque  design,  swing  as 

weathercocks    on     the    four 

towers  and,  seen  from  a  dis- 
tance across  the  low-lying  rice- 
fields,  give  a  quaint  mediaeval 
look  to  the  p'ace.  The  silk 
raised  and  spun  on  this  plan- 
tation, the  first  experimented 
with  in  this  country,  was  of 
fine  quality.  A  patriotic  Co- 
lonial dame  carried  enough  of 
it  for  the  making  of  three 
dresses  to  prominent  women 
in  England  in  order  to  demon- 
strate Carolina's  adaptability 
for  silk  culture.  Mulberry 
Castle's  founder  was  a  zealous 
churchman  who  frowned  upon 
dissenters  and  continued  to  nip  their  influence  in  Gov- 
ernment   affairs.       Many    arbitrary,    hot-worded    arguments 


Fireplaces:  Mulberry  Castle,  <.n  the  Cooper  River,  S.  C. 

to  the  time  of  the  minuet  and  elaborate  courtesy,  of  powd'ered      bearing   on    State    and    martial  matters    were   contested   in 
heads,  knee-buckles,  buckram  skirts  and  stomachers. 


1  Plate  38,  Part  X. 


54 


ROMANCE  AND    THE   SOUTH  CAROLLYA    HOMESTEAD. 


SS 


this  old  house,  and  significant  negotiations  conducted  when 
delegations  or  private  parties  sailed  up  the  Cooper  to  the 
Castle's  master,  to  have  rights  vindicated  or  wrongs  redressed. 
The  loopholes  provided  in  the  heavy  window-shutters  evidence 
a  martial  history.  The  owner  promoted  the  building  of  forts 
as  well  as  churches,  and  his  descendants  later  experienced 
rough  handling  both  from  Indians  and  British  scouts.  Once, 
in  Revolutionary  times,  a  servant  reported  that  troopers  were 
coming  across  the  open  hilltop  in  front  of  the  house.  The 
proprietor  —  a  colonel  of  the  day  —  went  down  the  slope  back 
of  the  premises  to  a  schooner  anchored  in  the  river,  and 
lying  face  downward  on  the  deck  was  covered  with  a  row- 
boat,  in  time  to  hear  the  troopers  gallop  past  toward  the 
swamp  where  they  believed  him  hiding. 

At   another  time,  while  the   family  was    at  supper,  word 


Drayton  Hall,'  on  the  Ashley  River,  is  a  survival  of  first- 
settlement  days,  still  habitable  after  long  use  and  many 
changes  in  its  surroundings.  And  Middleton  Place,  its 
close  neighbor,  is  possibly  the  best  known  of  Carolina  plan- 
tations, famed  for  its  noble  gardens,  to  which  hundreds  of 
tourists  make  pilgrimage.  It  is  there  that  one  see?  the 
clustering  azaleas  blooming  full  and  free  in  the  open  air  at 
the  foot  of  lofty  oaks  and  laurels,  from  which  the  gray-moss 
veilings  droop  almost  to  the  ground.  Nowhere  else  in  the 
country  have  such  effects  in  blossoms  and  foliage  been  con- 
trived, and  the  charm  of  the  place  is  its  naturalness  and 
freedom  from  artificial  posing.  Wherever  and  whenever  the 
gardener's  art  has  been  used  to  aid  nature  it  has  been  done 
so  deftly  and  subtly  as  to  give  the  impression  that  even 
Madam  Nature  herself  had  been  deceived  into  mothering  the 


i 
'    1 

t 

< 

I                   ''1 

a''F1Ii    •• 

-    s 

1  #  *  ;- 

■^'^-'■'^ 

&■?>'■'  t         \ 

'1 

wV        _     -^ 

m  ■.- 

vi-                   i 

. 

^  -  .^<-»^.t,t.^  - 

-■,^«— «- 

■:^  TTifei^ 

,. 

Bas^Kfc 

.-,;^«-..- 

--^ 

^^ggi^y^ljiy^BglBHMB'**  ~ 

.L       ... 

i^v:*"*:^ 

.«;».. 

IBSilKfe*^ '- 

.  ■-M:^i..:^m^m 

^-^MJ^^^^^^^^H 

ism»^  ■•^sjv..  v?»5P« 

-.?^yj;.,»i|feBS»'f- 

- 

Entrance  to  Parson's  Plantation  on  Goose  Creek,  near  Charleston,  S.  C. 


came  of  the  enemy's  approach.  The  women  promptly  blew 
out  the  candles,  and  the  husband  and  father  reached  his 
stable  and  on  horseback  got  off  to  the  woods  while  the 
raiders  were  searching  the  premises  by  torchlight.  Many 
colonists  were  in  the  house  at  that  juncture  because  of  its 
supposed  safety.  On  a  pallet  in  one  corner  of  the  parlor 
the  master's  little  daughter  had  been  put  to  sleep  while  some 
visitor  occupied  her  bed.  Her  couch  was  overturned  by 
bayonets  in  the  soldiers'  search  for  arms  or  treasure.  Those 
times  gave  way  to  seasons  of  great  prosperity  and  affluence, 
and  even  in  the  Civil  War  the  Castle  escaped  damage  because 
of  its  secluded  location. 

Two  miles  from  Mulberry  plantation  is  a  quaint  dwelling 
called  Exeter  House,  with  the  date  17  12  graved  on  its  brick- 
work. The  two  houses  are  companions,  having  shared  the  same 
history,  and  being  at  present  owned  by  family  connections. 


innovation.  This  estate  marks  the  time  when  Carolinians 
first  became  ambitious  for  luxury.  The  founder's  aim  was 
to  make  a  choice  and  cultivated  display  of  the  native  botani- 
cal riches  of  the  section,  mingling  them  with  such  foreign 
importations  as  could  best  be  naturalized  to  the  soil.  The 
very  spirit  of  tranquil  loveliness  broods  over  the  spot,  and 
even  the  prosaic  visitor  warms  to  enthusiasm  at  the  first  sur- 
prise of  these  riverside  grounds  that  many  liken  to  Paradise. 
The  house,  to  which  the  gardens  were  a  complement,  was 
burned  years  ago,  but  its  loss  has  been  skilfully  concealed. 
In  St.  James's  Parish,  Goose  Creek,  is  Yeaman's  Hall, 
whose  founder  was  the  first  person  to  introduce  slave-labor 
in  Carolina.  The  house  was  in  constant  use  until  the 
earthquake  cracked  its  walls.  Its  age  shows  in  its  face. 
Port-holes  in  the  basement  brickwork  and  staircase  landing 

1 1'late  39,  I'art  X. 


56 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


show  it  to  have  been  designed  for  defence  as  well  as  comfort. 
And  the  builder,  who  fled  from  Barbadoes,  bringing  money 
and  slaves  with  him,  must  have  profited  by  his  lessons  in 
danger,  for  he  not  only  caused  a  secret  chamber  to  be  walled 
within  the  house,  but  also  built  an  underground  passage  lead- 
ing out,  several  hundred  yards,  to  the  creek,  where  boats  were 
kept  moored  that  the  besieged  might  leave  the  dwelling 
secretly.  This  passage  opens  into  the  family  graveyard 
which  adjoins  the  premises,  as  was  old-country  custom.  A 
flat  gravestone  inscribed  to  some  mythical  ancestor  hides 
the  entrance  to  the  underground  way.  That  buried  passage 
has  been  an  abiding  terror  to  successive  generations  of  the 
neighborhood  darkies,  and  been  speculated  upon  by  many 
instalments  of  Sunday-school  cliildren  who  go  to  the  Hall  for 
their  spring  picnics.  The  hidden  way  is  the  basis  for  all 
manner  of  "bogey  stories,"  and  the  most  harmless  of  Jack-o'- 
my-Lanterns  seen  there  causes  desertion  of  the  territory  for 
weeks,  and  then  the  foxes  and  'possums  roam  secure  from 


ing  from  a  strong-minded  grandame  of  strict  religious  bent, 
who,  during  her  sway  as  mistress,  had  forbidden  all  levity 
and  pernicious  reading  to  her  household.  The  private  diaries 
of  the  time  report  that  the  governess  destroyed  her  novel  and 
took  a  servant-maid  to  sleep  in  her  room  thereafter ;  but,  later, 
when  there  arrived  at  the  Hall  a  son  of  the  old  grandame 
whose  features  strikingly  resembled  his  mother's,  the  young 
woman  was  thrown  into  such  agitation  of  mind  that  she  had 
to  go  away  in  quest  of  health. 

An  ancient  place  facing  on  Wappoo  Creek  is  notable  for 
having  produced  the  first  Carolina  indigo,  an  achievement 
due  to  woman's  wit  and  perseverance.  The  Governor  of 
Antigua  sent  his  wife  and  daughter  to  his  Carolina  planta- 
tion for  tlie  advantages  of  climate.  The  daughter,  wearying 
of  the  monotony  of  country  life,  sought  for  some  industry 
with  which  to  liven  matters,  and  began  experimenting  with 
tropical  seeds  and  fruits  sent  her  by  her  father.  The  first 
indigo  seeds  she  planted  were  killed  by  frost ;  the  next  venture 


■The  Pickets":   Bull  Plantation,  Ashley  Kiver,  S.  C. 


hunting.  A  fine  spring  of  water  is  hard  by,  but  none  of  the 
negro  tenants  on  the  land  partake  of  its  benefit.  They  say 
the  place  is  haunted. 

There  is  a  ghost  story  concerning  the  experience  of  a 
governess,  a  gay  young  widow,  who  taught  the  children  of 
the  household  some  generations  after  its  founding.  She 
was  reading  a  novel  one  night  in  her  bedchamber  upstairs 
when  the  door  opened  softly,  and  an  old  lady  in  silk  gown 
and  cross  'kerchief  walked  in  and  looked  at  her,  with  finger 
uplifted.  The  young  woman  asked  the  visitor's  meaning 
without  getting  response,  and  when  the  apparition  turned  to 
go  she  followed  through  several  rooms  until  it  vanished  as 
suddenly  as  it  had  come.  The  household  was  roused  and 
inquiry  made  as  to  how  a  stranger  could  have  got  in  or  out 
without  notice.  The  mystery  was  never  cleared.  Only  those 
familiar  with  the  fami'y  characteristics  set  it  down  as  a  warn- 


failed  because  of  worms.  The  third  trial  after  many  months 
proved  successful,  and  the  father  being  advised  of  the  fact 
sent  a  West  Indian  chemist  to  build  vats  and  show  the 
process  of  extracting  the  dye  from  the  weed.  The  foreign 
chemist,  probably  regretting  his  bargain  as  adverse  to  his 
own  country,  purposely  misled  his  employer  and  marred  the 
quality  of  the  indigo  by  putting  in  too  much  lime. 

The  young  woman  circumvented  him,  however.  Feeling 
intuitively  that  his  dealings  were  not  fair,  she  watched  him 
carefully,  questioning  every  step  in  the  process  and  his 
reasons  for  doing  thus  and  so,  with  the  result  that  a  knowl- 
edge of  the  correct  management  was  obtained  and  the  suc- 
cessful manipulation  of  indigo  made  known  to  the  planters 
of  the  section.  Afterwards,  this  girl  experimenter  married  a 
neighbor,  to  whom  her  father  made  a  present  of  all  the  indigo 
raised  on  his  lands. 


MORE  PECUTJARiriES   OE  SOUTHERN  COLONIAL  ARCHITECTURE. 


57 


One  of  the  stateliest  of  the  old  plantation  houses  in  the 
low  country  was  "  Archdale,"  built  in  1706,  under  the  di- 
rection of  the  architect  who  built  St.  Philip's  Church  in 
Charleston.  This  house,  which  had  the  massive  walls  of  a 
fortress,  with  steps  and  porches  to  correspond,  was  injured 
by  the  earthquake,  which  proved  so  ruinous  to  brick  houses. 
The  interior  is  decorated  with  florid  stucco-work  and  the 
hall  fireplaces  are  lined  with  pictured  Dutch  tiles.  As  in  most 
old  English  dwellings,  the  family  allegiance  is  shown  by  the 
royal  arms,  done  in  stucco,  over  the  main  archway.  Without 
were  paved  courts  and  extensive  grounds  adorned  with  laurel 
and  catalpa  trees  and  flowering  shrubs. 

Some  of  these  old  places  stand  far  back  from  the  road 
and  owe  much  of  their  beauty  to  a  water  approach  or  to 
their  isolation  among  live  oak  groves,  or  on  imposing  bluffs 
visible  from  some  distance.  Bits  of  social  or  domestic  his- 
tory are  connected  with  each,  serving  to  (ix  them  in  memory. 
You  drive  up  some  avenue  so  well  defined  and  stately  it 
would  seem  the  caretaker  must  be  near  at  hand,  only  to  find 
the  relics  of  a  dwelling  and  grounds  long  defaced,  the 
well-filled  barns  at  a  little  distance  and  the  populous  negro 


cabins  emphasizing  the  desolation.  One  such  home  near 
Charleston  was  destroyed  by  its  owner's  hand  on  discovery 
that  the  enemy  was  approaching.  His  negroes  strove  to 
prevent  the  sacrifice,  but  Spartan-like,  the  planter  hiinself,  be- 
lieving that  the  place  would  be  sacked,  applied  the  torch 
that  took  away  valuable  paintings,  plate  and  household  keep- 
sakes. At  another  old  home-site  in  a  sister  parish,  the  tale 
holds  of  the  young  master's  journeying  across  the  ocean  for 
his  bride,  after  building  a  carefully  planned  house  with  ex- 
press deference  to  her  comfort.  The  night  of  the  home- 
coming the  carriage  was  sent  to  the  station  to  fetch  the  young 
pair,  and  as  they  entered  the  avenue  leading  to  the  house  an 
odd  light  struck  on  the  trees.  The  dwelling  was  on  fire,  too 
far  gone  to  be  rescued.  And  the  couple  sat  in  their  convey- 
ance and  watched  the  tragedy,  afterwards  taking  shelter  in 
the  overseer's  house  until  a  substitute  could  be  built. 

There  are  no  older  or  more  picturesque  survivals  anywhere 
in  the  land  than  these  Carolina  home-sites;  and  it  is  well  to 
record  them  before  they  have  been  too  much  modified  or  set 
aside. 

OUVE    F.    GUNBY. 


■^B'- 


-^fgu 


More  Peculiarities  of  Southern  Colonial  Architecture. 


IF  one  wished  to  embark  on  an  interesting  voyage  of  spec- 
ulative inquiry,  he  might   imagine  that  in   the  first  ten 
years  of  the  seventeenth  century  the  ships  of  the  world 
brought  to  this  Western  Hemisphere  as  many  individuals 
as  have  entered  this  country  during  the  last  decade  as  immi- 
grants, coming  then,  as  they  have  come  now,  froin  as  many 
and  diversely  situated  civiliza- 
tions,  and   then   seek   to  dis- 
cover what  manner  of  civiliza- 
tion,   what    kinds    of    social 
customs,  what  forms  of  archi- 
tectural   surroundings    would 
have  resulted  from  the  efforts 
of  the  motley  horde  of  Huns, 
Italians,  Poles,  Jews,  Armen- 
ians, Russians,  Chinese,  Jap- 
anese,    Scandinavians,     Ger- 
mans,   Irishmen    and    so    on. 
The   science    of   ethnology 
shows  us  how  climate,  social 
custom  and  family  habit  predi- 
cate the    results    of    man's 
efforts,  and  on  nothing  is  the 
effect   of   these    more   clearly 
stamped    than    on    the    archi- 
tecture of  a  country.     Fortu- 
nately, this  country  was,  essentially,  settled  by  Englishmen, 
and  the  ethnical  characteristics  of  the  American  people  do 
not  vary  much  from  those  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  British 
Islands,  although  there  are  parts  of  the  country  which  bear 
the  impress   of   the   habits,  customs   and  styles  of   building 
native  to  those  early  settlers  of  other  than  Anglo-Saxon  origin. 

•The  writer  docs  not  moan  to  suggest  that  winji-pavilioii  liouss 

nKMit  in  this  (  ouiitry 


But  it  could  have  made  little  difference  at  the  time  when 
the  early  settlers  actually  arrived  what  had  been  their  home 
habits  of  life.  They  found  themselves  projected  into  a  new 
world  and  they  must  house  themselves  either  in  natural  caves 
or  in  some  form  of  habitation  that  their  own  hands  were 
capable  of  forming  with  most  expedition,  whether  a  wattled 

wigwam,  a  sod  hut,  a  mud 
hovel  or  a  log  cabin.  The 
log  cabin  was  the  natural  se- 
lection of  Englishmen,  and 
from  the  log  cabin  was  in  time 
evolved,  not  only  the  present 
system  of  wooden  dwellings, 
but  one  of  the  two  kinds  of 
building  which  are  essentially 
American  types.  One  of 
these  types  has  already  been 
referred  to  —  the  gambrel- 
roofed  building.  The  second 
type  that  we  are  inclined  to 
consider  essentially  American 
is  the  house  with  wing  pavil- 
ions '  which  is  so  character- 
istic of  dwelling-houses  in  the 
Southern  States,  a  type  of 
dwelling  that  has  sometimes 
been  held  to  be  one  of  the  results  of  slavery,  for,  considered 
from  this  point  of  view,  the  wing  pavilion  is  but  the  slave- 
quarter  drawn  nearer  to  the  main  house  and  occupied  by  the 
house-servants,  and,  finally,  connected  with  it  by  open  or 
closed  galleries.  But  the  wing  pavilion  may  have  another 
derivat'on,  and  its  germ  is  to  be  sought  in  the  humblest  type 

are  not  common  in  otiier  countries,  l)ut  merely  that  its  develoi> 
was  a  natural  one. 


A  Modern  Veranda,  Meeting  Street  and  tlie  Hattery,  Cliarieslon,  S.  C. 


58 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


of  dwelling,  since  it  is  in  the  dwellings  of  the  lowly  that 
changes  occur  least  rapidly,  and  so  there  is  more  hope  of 
finding  still  in  existence  the  needed  connecting  links. 

In  all  probability  the  log  cabin  of  the  South  was  very  like 
the  log  cabin  of  the  North,  and  its  architectural  form  was 
of  the  simplest,  and  though  the  sun  shone  more  fiercely  in 
Virginia  and  South  Carolina  than  it  did  in  Massachusetts, 
we  do  not  know  that  the  Southern  settlers  undertook  to  pro- 
vide a  grateful  shade  on  the  outside  of  the  cabin  by  giving 
a  wide  overhang  to  their  roof-timbers.  But  by  the  time  that 
logs  had  been  supplanted  by  slabs  and  sawed  boards,  we  may 
feel  pretty  sure  that  this  matter  of  providing  shade  had 
received  attention  and  the  householder  had  provided  a  place 
where  his  women-folk  could  work  or  sit  under  cover  from 
the  sun's  rays,  either  by  giving  his  main  roof  an  overhang  or 
by  building  a  porch  on  the  gable-end.  Now,  as  the  original 
log  cabins  were  essentially  small  structures  of  a  single  room 


ures.  This  arrangement  was  satisfactory  enough  until  it 
came  time,  perhaps,  to  provide  a  second  daughter  with  a 
home,  and  then  the  problem  presented  was  not  so  easy  of 
solution,  for  if  the  new  house  were  built  in  the  same  line 
over  beyond  the  house  of  the  eldest  daughter,  the  new  bride's 
door  might  as  well  be  cut  in  one  side  as  in  another,  since  she 
would  inevitably  be  ostracized  from  the  family  circle,  as  rep- 
resented by  "  doorstep  visits,"  while  the  mother  would  have 
to  take  twice  as  many  steps  in  going  to  call  on  one  daughter 
as  she  would  when  just  running  in  to  chat  with  the  other.  If, 
having  this  evil  in  mind,  the  head  of  the  family  ever  thought 
to  avoid  it  by  building  for  his  second  daughter  a  cabin  — 
always  in  the  same  riglit  line  —  to  the  west  (as  we  have 
assumed)  of  his  own  house,  he  doubtless  perceived  that, 
though  the  mother's  steps  might  be  saved,  the  new  location 
would  be  as  undesirable  socially  as  the  site  at  the  other  end 
of  the  second  cabin.     ]5ut  being,  doubtless,  a  man  of  resource, 


A  Sea  Island  Cottage,  off  the  Ct  ast  of  Geoipla. 


or,  if  larger,  of  two  rooms,  it  is  plain  that  as  the  family  in- 
creased more  room  was  found  needful,  and,  as  log  cabins 
are  not  easy  to  enlarge,  it  was  the  obvious  thing  to  provide 
such  enlargement  in  the  shape  of  a  second  log  cabin  of  the 
same  size  as  the  original,  and,  for  convenience  as  well  as  for 
sociability  and  mutual  protection,  it  is  equally  obvious  that 
the  new  structure  should  be  built  near  the  original  with  its 
walls  parallel  to  those  of  the  old  cabin.  These  enlargements 
of  the  homestead  were,  in  a  sense,  compulsory  when  it  was 
needful  to  establish  a  son  or  daughter  in  a  new  home,  and, 
as  neighbors  were  few  and  doctors  fewer,  it  was  all  the  more 
desirable  that  the  mother  should  have  her  daughter  directly 
under  her  eye.  Then,  if  the  door  of  the  original  cabin,  with 
its  possible  porch,  was,  say,  in  the  east  gable-wall,  the  de- 
mands of  sociability  evidently  required  that  the  door  of 
the  new  cabin,  with  its  possible  porch,  should  be  in  the 
west  gable-wall,  so  that  mother  and  daughter  might  gossip 
with  one  another  across  the  short  space  between  the  struct- 


the  father,  after  due  thought,  solved  his  problem  in  a  way  to 
remove  all  disagrefeabilities,  little  thinking  that  in  doing  so 
he  was  producing  the  germ  of  the  second  typical  product 
of  American  architectural  ingenuity. 

He  perceived  that,  although  two  of  his  daughters  were  oflf 
his  hands  and  out  of  his  house,  really,  the  house  itself  was 
quite  too  small  for  his  remaining  and  still  growing  family,  al- 
though it  would  be  amply  large  for  the  newly  married  couple; 
so  he  decided  to  abandon  it  to  them  and  build  a  new  and 
larger  house  for  himself.  This  new  and  larger  structure,  be- 
ing always  guided  by  the  instinct  for  convenience  and  socia- 
bility, he  set  in  the  space  between  the  two  cabins  already 
built,  but  at  right  angles  to  them,  with  the  gable-end  to  the 
south,  that  is ;  setting  it  back  so  that  its  south  gable-wall 
aligned  with  their  north  side-walls.  The  door  of  this  new  and 
larger  structure  naturally  was  cut  in  the  south  gable-wall, 
and  in  this  way  the  doors,  and  possible  porches,  of  the  three 
dwellings  fronted  on  a  common,  and  small,  door-yard.     The 


MORE  PECULIARITIES   OF  SOUTHERN  COLONIAL   ARCHITECTURE. 


59 


mandates  of  sociability  were  perfectly  observed ;  the  mother  As  a  theory,  and   fanciful    at  that,  all  this  may  be  very 

in  talking  across  to  her  eldest  daughter  need  talk  but  half  well,  but  is  there  any  tangible  evidence  that  can  be  adduced 

as  loud  as  before,  or  in  case  of  a  visit  need  take  but  half  as  in  support  of  it  ?     We  think  there  is. 

many  steps.     The  natural  passing  to  and  fro  between  tiiese  The  wing-pavilion  house,  as  it  exists  in  the  manor-houses 

three  cabins  inevitably,  sooner  or  later,  particularly  after  the  of  Maryland  and  Virginia,  presents  the  type  in  its  highest 

grandchildren    acquired   locomotive    capacity,   suggested    a  perfection,  and  just  as  it  is  difficult  to  determine  of  what 


platform  of  some  kind,  and, 
presently,  a  roof  to  that  plat- 
form to  give  shade  or  pro- 
tection from  the  weather. 
The  result  of  this  attempt  to 
satisfy  the  natural  demands 
of  family  sociability  was  the 
germ  of  the  wing-pavilion 
house  of  the  Southern  States. 
It  may  be  asked,  if  this 
interesting  type  was  evolved 
in  just  this  way,  why  is  it 
that  the  type  is  confined  to 
the  South  and  does  not 
make  its  appearance  in  the 
North  1  And  since  it  is  a 
stranger  in  the  North,  is  not 
this    hypothetical    evolution 


nationality  a  genuine  cosmo- 
polite really  is,  so  it  is  diffi- 
cult in  the  case  of  these 
eighteenth-century  houses, 
erected  by  men  of  great 
means,  to  decide  whether 
the  germ  of  their  house-plan 
is  to  be  looked  for  in  this 
country  or  abroad  ;  whether 
they  here  followed  by  one 
last  step  a  process  of  evo- 
lution that  had  been  going 
on  about  them  and  their 
ancestors  ever  since  the 
country  was  first  discovered, 
or  whether  they  adopted  and 
simplified  a  type  discover- 
able somewhere  on  the  other 


a  little  too  fine-drawn  to  deserve   respect.'     Possibly.     Yet  side  of  the    Atlantic.     Types   subsist   longest  in    the  lower 

before  waiving   it    aside    as    ridiculous,   it    is   proper   to   at-  stages  of  development,  with  inanimate  things  as  much  as  with 

tempt  to  answer  the  questions.     In  the  first  place,  there  was  man,  and  in  support  of  the  theory  of  development  here  sug- 

just  as  great  a  difference  between  the  social  instincts  of  the  gested  we  must  seek  for  proof,  not  on  the  banks  of  the  James, 

settlers  North  and  South  as  there  is  between  the  climates  but  in  the  back  country  of  Virginia,  Georgia  and  North  and 

of  Massachusetts  and  South  Carolina.     The  family   life  of  South  Carolina,  once  iield  by  the  families  of  frontiersmen, 

the  Puritan  was   far   less  expansive  and  joyous    than    that  and  now  occupied  by  small  owners  or  renters  of  the  land  and 

of  the  Southern  immigrants,  even  if  we  take  as  a  correspond-  by  the  white-trash,  whose  wants  are  simple  and  whose  ener- 

ing  type  the  Huguenot,  for  here  we  have  the  asceticism  due  to  gies  are  commensurate  with  their  means,  who  either  live  in 

sectarianism  largely  offset  by  the  natural  joyousness  of  the  the  houses  built   by  their  more  sturdy  forebears   or  homes 

Gallic  temperament.     It  seems  fair  to  assume  that  a  Puritan  which  they  have  blindly  copied  from  those  of  their  neighbors. 

mother  did  not  feel  the  need  of  doorstep  gossip  as  keenly  as  These  small  communal  dwellings,  a  composite  of  three  in- 


did  the  mother  living  on  the 
James  or  on  the  Santee,  and 
no  matter  how  much  her 
New  England  descendants 
may  now  love  to  gossip 
"  over  the  back  fence,"  did 
not  feel  the  hourly  need  of 
chit-chat  that  her  livelier 
Southern  contemporary  may 
have  felt. 

Again,  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  tiie  out-of-door 
life  of  the  Southerner  is 
longer  by  several  months  in 
the  year  than  is  that  of  tlie 
Northerner,  and,  while 
the  latter  might  well  hesi- 
tate to  provide  his  wife  and 
daughters  with  primitive 
covered  verandas  which 
would  be  fully  serviceable 
only   three    months    in    tlie 

year,  they  were  very  reasonable  things  for  a  Soutiierner  to 
provide,  since  they  would  surely  be  used  nine  months  out  of 
every  twelve.  Since  we  know  that  the  most  potent  control- 
ling influences  affecting  architectural  forms  are  the  ethnical 
and  the  climatic,  we  think  that  the  absence  of  the  wing- 
pavilion  type  in  the  Nortli  does  not  in  any  way  invalidate 
the  theory  of  evolution  we  suggest. 


Tlie  J.  T.  Ciilyer  House,  Prospefl  Heights,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 


tegral  parts,  are  to  be  found 
scattered  through  the  States 
named  and  in  parts  of  Ken- 
tucky to  this  day,  and  surely 
present  the  simplest  form  of 
the  wing-pavilion  dwelling, 
which  we  hold  to  be  the  sec- 
ond significant  development 
of  American  building. 

The  view  of  the  Sea  Island 
cottage  '  —  now  occupied  by 
negroes, but  in  all  probability 
once  the  summer  house,  or, 
possibly,  the  shooting-box,  of 
the  owner  of  some  neighbor- 
ing rice-plantation  —  shows 
the  type  described  as  it  was 
treated  late  in  the  eighteenth 
century  or  as  it  might  be 
treated  now.  The  three  doors 
front  on  thecommonveranda, 
and  while  the  flanking  cot- 
tages have  become  mere  wing  pavilions  of  a  single  bedroom 
each,  the  central  corps  de  logis  has  gained  in  size  and  compara- 
tive importance,  though  still  consisting  of  but  a  single  story. 
It  is  interesting  to  study  the  varying  manner  in  which  the 
wing  pavilion  is  treated,  for  there  is  scarcely  a  possible 
combination  of  which  an  extant  example  cannot  be  found  in 

1  i'.u'o  5''^,  l':irt  X. 


6o 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


brick  or  wood,  from  the  group  consisting  of  the  main  house 
flanked  symmetrically  by  small  independent  structures  wholly 
unconnected  with  it  by  gallery  of  any  kind,  whether  covered 
or  uncovered  ;  to  the  group  of  two,  the  main  building  being 
connected  with  its  smaller  neighbor  by  an  open  covered  gal- 
lery, as  is  the  case  at  the  Calhoun  homestead  ;'  to  the  group 
of  three  where,  as  at  Mount  Vernon,''  the  wing  pavilions 
upon  each  side  —  independent  structures  —  are  connected 
with  the  main  house  by  open,  but  covered,  galleries.  Then 
we  find  the  single  pavilion  connected  with  the  main  house 
by  an  enclosed  gallery,  as  at  "Acton,"'  in  Annapolis,  and, 
again,  the  main  house  connected  in  the  same  way  with  a 
pavilion  on  either  side,  as  at  "  Lower  Brandon."  ^  Little  by 
little  the  gallery  as  a  mere  passage-way  gives  place  to  a  wider 
structure,  constituted  of  one  or  more  connecting  rooms  that 


square  rather  than  the  elongated  house  was  a  natural  result 
The  milder  climate  of  the  South  made  it  a  matter  of  indiffer- 
ence and  sometimes  a  positive  advantage  that  the  rooms  had 
such  an  expanse  of  outer  wall  enclosing  them. 

It  is  regrettable  that  more  is  not  known  of  the  men  who 
actually  designed  the  notable  Southern  houses  —  Homewood, 
Whitehall,  Tulip  Hill,  Brandon  and  the  many  other  interest- 
ing wing-pavilion  brick  houses  of  Maryland  and  Virginia, 
the  houses  that  antedate  the  "white  pillared  "  houses  of  the 
Southern  planter.  These  houses  did  not  grow,  Topsy-like. 
They  are  real  architectural  achievements,  the  final  word  in  a 
discernible  process  of  evolution.  In  some  ways  they  are  more 
lovable  than  any  type  of  house  we  have :  while  having 
abundant  dignity  and  elegance  they  seem  intensely  homelike, 
and  though  they  have  an  old-world  air  and  remind  us  that 


Tlie  Sliepherd  House,   Linnwoad,  near  Culumbiis,  Ga.     [1830.] 


serve  also  as  a  passage  way,  or  to  a  passage-way  with  rooms 
upon  one  side  of  it.  Then  pavilions,  connecting  rooms  and 
main  house  are  joined  in  one  structure  and  covered  by  a 
single  roof,  as  at  "Stratford  House."" 

The  last  stage  in  the  development  of  the  wing  pavilion 
may  be  found  in  such  a  house  as  "  \\'averly,"  '  near  Columbus, 
in  Mississippi,  where  the  existence  of  the  pavilion  is  not 
recognized  at  all  in  the  roof-plan,  though  the  germ  arrange- 
ment as  it  existed  in  the  three  log  cabins  is  clearly  recogniz- 
able in  the  plan  of  the  front. 

Climatic  conditions  as  much  as  anything  encouraged  the 
development  of  this  type  of  dwelling.  Land  was  as  cheap 
in  the  Northern  Stales  and  families  there  liked  as  weil  as 
those  in  the  South  to  have  ample  space  to  wander  about  in 
under  cover,  but  the  rigor  of  the  winter  months  compelled 
the  adoption  of  a  more  condensed  house-plan  and  the  four- 

1  I'lale  46,  I'art  X. 

^I'latc  33.  Part  \'I. 

"  Slc  cut,  JJas^i;  57,  \'oI.  II. 


their  indwellers  belonged  to  a  less  eager  generation  than  ours, 
they  seem  to  tell  us  that  beneath  their  silks  and  satins,  behind 
their  frilled  shirt-fronts,  beat  hearts  affected  by  very  homely, 
human  emotions.  One  can  imagine  the  men  of  that  time 
treating  their  architects  as  Louis  XIV  treated  his,  that  is, 
understandingly.  There  must  have  been  both  understand- 
ing and  cordial  cooperation  to  have  wrought  out  structures 
so  well  composed,  so  refined  in  the  intention  of  the  detail  — 
intention  clearly,  but,  alas,  not  always,  in  the  South  at  least, 
refined  as  to  the  execution. 

Climatic  influences  created  two  other  peculiarities  of 
Southern  houses.  Towards  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury the  early  forms  of  heating-furnaces  began  to  be  intro- 
duced, and  their  installation  required  a  cellar,  but  they  could 
hardly  have  been  the  cause  of  the  fact  that  a  dug  cellar  was 
a  more  common  necessity  in  the  North  than  in  the  South. 

*See  cut,  pafje  28,  \o\.  II. 
5  See  cut,  p;i.s;e  21,  \o\.  II. 
"See  cut,  page  59. 


MORE  PECULIARITIES   OF  SOUTHERN  COLONIAL   ARCHITECTURE. 


6i 


It  is  more  probable  that  the  necessity  of  storing  fruit  and  more  dignified  and  stately,  perhaps  his  advance  to  the  head 

vegetables  safely  away  from  the  frost  made  cellars  a  necessity  of  his  flight  of  steps  had  all  the  value  of  the  advance  of  a 

in  New  England,  while  the  lack  of  such  necessity  and  the  feudal  lord  to  the  edge  of  his  dais.     ]!ut  of  one  thing  we 

fashions   imported  with  West  Indian  immigrants,  who  had  may  feel  sure  —  both  host  and  guest  speedily  retreated  to 

been  habituated  to  having  the  air  blow  under  their  houses,  the  shadiest  spot  on  the  wide  veranda. 


made  cellars  in  South  Caro- 
lina, say,  a  comparative 
rarity.  Be  the  secondary 
causes  what  they  may,  the 
primal  ones  —  climatic  influ- 
ences—  induced  the  South- 
erner very  generally  to  aban- 
don his  lower  story  to  the 
meaner  domestic  uses  —  to 
the  kitchen,  storeroom,  rub- 
bish-rooms, servants'  rooms 
or  what  not,  or,  at  least,  to 
the  occupancy  of  the  men 
of  the  family,  and  make  the 
rooms  of  the  second  story 
the  scene  of  his  domestic  life. 
Thanks  to  this  peculiarity, 
the  houses  of  this  particular 
period  are  made  interesting 
by  a  great  variety  of  exterior 
stairs,  in  single,  double  or 
treble  runs,  ascending  to  the 
veranda  of  the  first  story  or 
to  the  generous  porch  at  the 


Sketcti  stiowing  Relation  of  the  Charleston  Entrance  to  Veranda  Floor. 


The  veranda  of  the  South- 
ern house  is  now  its  dis- 
tinctive feature,  and  its  de- 
velopment, which  is  easy  to 
trace,  is  clearly  the  satisfac- 
tion of  a  climatic  necessity. 
The  veranda,  piazza,  gallery, 
call  it  what  you  will,  is 
worked  into  the  house-plan 
so  obviously  as  a  necessity 
that  one  does  not  seem  to  be 
offended  in  the  later  build- 
ings by  the  general  practice 
of  cutting  athwart  a  great 
Classic  order  with  the  floor 
and  balustrade  of  the  sec- 
ond-story veranda.  An  order 
treated  in  this  way  in  the 
North  would  surely  attract 
adverse  criticism,  and  even 
in  those  cases  where  a  form- 
less order  of  square  posts 
has  been  made  to  support  a 
piazza    floor   at   mid-height, 


same  level,    and  as  stairs   imply    posts  and  hand-rails,    the  as  in  the  case  of  the  old  Culyer  house  on  Prospect  Heights, 

fashion  has  provided  us  with  many  an  admirable  specimen  Brooklyn,  one  cannot  but  suspect  that  the  house  was  origi- 

of   wrought   ironwork.     It  is   quite   possible   that   hygienic  nally  built  by,  or  for,  some  Southerner  who,  tired  of  planta- 

considerations  of  a  climatic  kind  had  something  to  do  with  tion    isolation,   had    migrated   nearer  to  the  haunts   of  his 

this  abandoning  of  the   ground-floor  to  servile,  in  place  of  fellow-men,  and  not  knowing  that  their  climate  had  induced 


polite,  uses.  The  houses 
where  the  b<l  e/age  is  found 
at  the  second  floor  are  most 
plentiful  in  the  low  rice- 
growing  lands  of  South  Car- 
olina, Georgia  and  Louisi- 
ana, and  very  probably  the 
custom  was  dictated  by 
the  prudential  necessity  of 
keeping  the  women  and  chil- 
dren of  the  family  as  much 
above  the  morning  and  eve- 
ning mist-line  as  possible.  It 
is  this  peculiarity  that  gives 
the  houses  of  the  period  built 
in  the  far  South  an  air  very 
different  from  the  houses 
built  at  the  same  time  in 
Virginia  and  Maryland, 
which  seem  to  suggest  a 
hospitality  if  not  of  a  more 
generous,  at  least  of  a 
more  active,  kind  :  it  is 
clearly  more  easy  to  just 
step  out  of  doors  from    the 


Old  House,  Park  Avenue,  New  York,   N.  V. 


in  them  different  habits,  or 
else  wilfully  clinging  to  his 
own,  made  his  architect  sur- 
round his  dwelling-place  with 
two-storied  galleries.  These 
great  houses  with  Classic 
orders,  these  real  "  white 
pillared  houses  of  the 
South,"  are  very  largely 
tiie  product  of  the  Greek 
revival  — as  is  the  old  house 
on  Paik  Avenue,  New  York, 
whose  important  second- 
story  doorway  has  a  hint  of 
Southern  suggestiveness 
about  it  —  and  belong  to  a 
later  time  than  tlie  period 
here  considered.  But  they 
merely  amplified  and  clothed 
with  new  graces  a  type  of 
structure  already  very  fully 
developed ;  then,  too,  they 
are  so  very  architectural  in 
their  composition  that  for 
us  they  lack  in  great  degree 
the   interest    and    charm    of 


level  to  meet  your  guest  than 

to  take  the  trouble  to  run  down  a  flight  of  steps,  with  tlie  the  earlier  structures  from  which  they  developed. 

certainty  that  you  must  toil  up  them  again  in  his  company,  The  peculiarity  of  the  Charleston  veranda  has  been  referred 

so  that  one  infers  an  apparent  difference  of  cordiality  between  to  in  a  preceding  paper,  and  explanation  made  that  the  door- 

the  greeting  of  the  Virginia  tobacco-grower  and  the  South  way  in  the  screen-wall  gave  upon  the  steps  leading  to  the 

(Carolina  cotlon-p.antcr.     Perhaps  the  latter's  welcome  was  lower  veranda  and  not  into  the  vestibule  of  the  house.     It 


62 


THE   GEORGIAX  PERIOD. 


would  seem  that  this  arrangement  must  furnish  a  very  perfect 
dust-hole  for  the  gatiiering  of  all  the  leaves  that  fall  and  all 
the  dust  and  straws  that  float  about;  but  there  is  an  obvious 
need  in  a  climate  where  open  windows  at  night  are  the  rule 
that,  in  a  city,  a  too  easy  access  to  the  veranda  upon  which 
windows  open  siiould  not  be  afforded  to  the  vagrant  and 
pilfering  negro  and  his  tramping  white  brother.  In  the 
country,  on  the  plantations,  the  same  safeguard  was  not 
called  for,  and  so  we  find  open  flights  of  steps  ramping  up 
to  the  house-door,  which,  being  usually  placed  on  the  axis 
of  the  front,  gives  a  balanced  central  feature  to  the  compo- 
sition, which  is  often  of  great  dignity. 

Mr.  Waterhouse  has  elsewhere  accounted  for  the  porch, 
or  portico,  as  a  needed  protection  from  the  weather,  which 
the  native  or  acquired  hospitality  of  the  householder  pro- 
vided for  his  guest,  and  in  the  North,  and  in  other  countries, 
we  have  the  porch  treated  in  myriad  interesting  ways  without 
ever  losing  its  character  as  being,  first  of  all,  a  protection  to 


fellow)  house  ^  are  a  modern  addition,  and,  liiough  there  are 
many  beautiful  porches  in  Salem,  there  are  few  verandas, 
and  these  mere  abbreviations,  like  that  of  the  Bertram  house.' 
It  was  only  when  social  life  in  the  Northern  States  had 
taken  on  an  idler  habit,  and  it  had  been  discovered  that  the 
manner  of  life  in  the  South  during  the  heated  term  was  dic- 
tated by  sound  common  sense,  that  we  decided  to  copy  that 
feature  of  their  dwellings  that  did  so  much  to  make  life 
endurable  during  a  hot  spell.  Then  the  veranda  and  the 
"  piazza  habit  "  were  imported  bodily,  for  both  the  veranda 
and  the  habit  were  evolved  and  developed  south  of  Mason 
and  Dixon's  line. 

Shade  was,  of  course,  the  first  desideratum,  and  if  the 
porch-roof  could  have  given  all  the  shade  that  was  needed 
there  would  probably  have  been  no  great  outward  difference 
between  the  houses  of  the  different  sections  of  the  country, 
but  as  that  was  an  impossibility  it  was  a  very  natural  thing 
to  expand  the  porch  laterally,  first  along  the  sides  of  the 


An  Early  Type  of  Veranda,  "The  Briars,"  near  Natchez,  Miss. 


the  visitor  as  he  lingers  at  the  house-door.  It  has  been 
deepened  to  afford  greater  shelter,  and  it  has  been  widened 
so  as  to  make  room  for  seats  upon  each  side  ;  it  has  been 
roofed  in  sundry  ways,  and  that  roof  has  been  supported  in 
ways  as  various.  Even  when,  as  at  "  Shirley,"*  it  was  given 
a  second  story  it  still  remained  only  a  porch.  The  present 
generation  at  the  North  is  so  habituated  to  living  in  houses 
more  or  less  surrounded  by  piazzas  or  verandas,  these  useful 
adjuncts  of  the  dwelling-houses  have  been  so  widely  intro- 
duced during  the  last  generation  or  two  in  all  parts  of  the 
country,  they  have  become  such  a  distinctive  feature  of 
American  houses,  that,  doubtless,  many  feel  that  they  are  a 
species  of  native  growth  that  sprang  up  in  any  part  or  all 
parts  of  the  country  at  the  same  time.  But  the  advent  of 
the  piazza  as  we  know  it  to-day  is  a  comparatively  recent 
occurrence  in  the  North.     The  verandas  of  the  Vassal  (Long- 


house  most  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  later,  as  it  was  found 
that  the  veranda  was  a  delightful  place  for  the  taking  of 
gentle  exercise  on  rainy  days,  all  around  the  house. 

Homewood,  Tulip  Hill,  Whitehall,  Westover,  Shirley,  Mon- 
ticello,  Arlington,  Brandon  and  many  other  of  the  manor- 
houses  of  Maryland  and  Virginia  are  content  with  porches 
or  porticos.  Berkeley*  combines  the  covered  veranda  in  its 
simplest  form  with  a  two-story  porch,  while  Mount  Vernon, 
almost  alone  of  its  class  in  that  latitude,  is  endowed  with  a 
real  Southern  veranda  on  the  east  front.  More  than  this, 
Mount  Vernon,  in  this  same  veranda,  indulges  in  some  very 
illiterate  architectural  forms,  forms  which  Jefferson  would 
not  have  countenanced  if  he  had  been  called  in  as  adviser, 
as  he  was  at  "Lower  Brandon  "  — where,  by  the  way,  there 
is  a  very  interesting  example  of  illiteracy  in  the  capitals  of 
some  of  the  porch-columns  which  were  restored  "  after  the 


Page  35,  Vol.  II. 


'  Page  4,  Vol.  I. 


8  1'late  31,  Part  VII. 


*  Page  39,  Vol.  II. 


.^rORI'.   PECULIARITIES   OF  SOUTHERN  COLONIAL   ARCHITECTURE 


war."  The  ingenious  local  carpenter,  fiiuling  himself  quite 
unable  to  copy  the  Corinthian  caps  which  still  existed  on 
some  of  the  columns,  made  his  new  caps  by  nailing  about  the 
shaft  selected  portions  of  the  jig-sawed  brackets  (with  their 
well-known  barbaric  forms  and  hideous  counter-curvatures) 
which  he  had  been  using  in  place  of  Classic  modillions  in 
repairing  the  cornice.  The  result  is  a  triumph  of  ingenuity, 
and  one  feels  as  if  the  work  might  have  been  done  by  some 
Babylonian  master-builder.  Southern  work  is  fertile  in  such 
displays  of  illiterate  ingenuity.  One  would  not  so  much 
mind  the  illiteracy,  but  the  failure  of  the  ingenious  intention 
and  the  brutality  of  the  workmanship  are  a  constant  disap- 
pointment and  offense.  The  doorway  of  St.  Mary's  Male 
Academy  *  at  Norfolk  is  merely  an  extreme  case  of  the  result 
of  degeneration  in  both  the  designer  and  the  mechanic  who 
carried  out  his  design. 

At  Mount  Vernon  the  square  veranda  posts  rest  on  the 


cornice  is  interjected  a  mere  square  fragment  of  architrave 
and  frieze.  At  the  South  the  column  is,  as  it  were,  length- 
ened below  the  base,  while  in  this  Northern  case  it  is 
lengthened  above  the  capital. 

The  Southerners  have  used  posts  and  columns  so  often  in 
providing  the  all-needful  veranda  that  they  have  acquired 
much  skill  and  a  considerable  ingenuity  in  their  disposition 
and  adjustment.  But  it  is  not  so  sure  that  there  has  been 
any  particular  or  regular  development  in  their  treatment,  for 
one  of  the  very  early  houses  shows  a  very  perfect  understand- 
ing of  how  columns  may  be  used  to  produce  an  impressive 
and  yet  not  over-stately  and  too  architectural  an  effect. 
Until  within  eighteen  months^  there  stood  near  Natchez, 
Miss.,  an  extremely  interesting  house  known  as  "Concord," 
where  we  have  great  columns  springing  each  from  its  own 
foundation  so  that  they  appear  the  very  outgrowth  of  the 
soil  itself,  and  these  great  seeming  monoliths  support  in  one 


A  I.\te  Type  of  Veraiida  showing  Effect  t.f  tlie  Greek  Reviv.-il:    Coleman  House,  M.icon,  Ga.     [iS^o.] 


floor  of  the  veranda  as  if  on  a  stylobate,  and  this  treatment 
is  the  one  that  is  most  usually  followed  both  North  and 
South;  but  in  the  later  instances  of  porticoed  Southern  man- 
sions the  designer  has  frequently  used  a  full  order  and 
placed  beneath  his  column  a  complete  pedestal.  This,  when 
a  balustrade  is  introduced  between  the  pedestals,  does  not 
appear  an  unusual  and,  so,  local  treatment;  but  in  many 
cases  there  is  no  balustrade  and  then  these  pedestal-sup- 
ported columns  become  characteristic  of  the  Southern  sec- 
tion of  the  country.  A  curious  reversal  of  this  practice, 
devised  to  the  same  end  —  to  bring  tiie  veranda  roof  to  tiie 
level  of  the  second-story  ceiling  —  is  found  in  tiie  liertram 
house  at  Salem,  Mass.,'  where  between  the  capital  and  the 

>  Mate  37,  Part  X. 
•I'late  31,  I'art  \II. 


place  merely  the  light  wooden  pediment-fronted  gable  roof 
that  overhangs,  at  two-story  height,  the  twin  stairs  that  ramp 
up  to  the  veranda  proper,  while  in  others  they  support, 
in  the  main,  merely  the  equally  light  roof  that  shades  the 
veranda.  Then,  at  the  reentrant  angle  where  the  porch 
joins  the  veranda,  support  to  the  roof  at  that  point  is  given 
by  naively  using  merely  the  upper  halt  of  one  of  these  great 
columns,  which  here  rests  upon  the  outer  wall  of  the  lower 
story,  which  at  this  point  is  brought  out  to  the  face  of  tiie 
upper  veranda  floor.  The  curious  thing  is  that  this  unortho- 
dox disordering  of  Classic  formulas  not  only  looks  entirely 
proper,  but  adds  tlie  needed  touch  of  lightness  to  what 
would  otherwise  seem  a  rather  ponderous  treatment,  and  the 
lightening  process  is  carried  a  step  farther  by  the  introduction 

3  "Concord"  w^is  burned  in  February,  1901. 


64 


THE   GRORGIAN  PERIOD. 


in  the  intercolumniation  of  the  great  order  of  a  smaller  non- 
descript order  of  piazza  posts. 

"Concord"^  was  the  home  of  the  last  of  the  Spanish  gover- 
nors and  was  built  in  1789,  by  one  named  Grandpre,  so  it 
is  more  than  likely  that  the  prototype  of  this  interesting 
structure  should  be  sought  first  in  the  Spanish  West  Indies, 
but  in  what  direction  afterwards  to  take  the  next  step  back- 
wards we  hardly  knew.     But  taken  as  it  stands,  or  stood  for 


Southern  work,  both  in  the  refinement  of  detail  and  perfection 
of  workmanship,  and  it  is  all  in  favor  of  the  Northern  work. 
For  this  difference  there  must  be  a  reason,  and  perhaps  it  is 
this:  To  this  day,  and  quite  apart  from  the  efforts  of  poets 
and  prose-writers  who  have  erected,  if  the  term  be  admissi- 
ble, the  hearth  into  a  shibboleth,  the  fireplace  at  the  North 
is  the  centre  of  home  life  and  its  enframement  a  matter  of 
concern  and  interest  to  all  members  of  a  household.     It  is 


Elri 


•   ' .-,  *-  k -i -9 1^ ■■' . »f  c  £=^#:  m  -!-■ 


The  Pyatt  House:    Rear,  Georgetown,  S.  C. 


Closed-in  Verandas  al  Beaufort,  S.  C 


so  many  years,  it  seems  almost  an  ideal  solution  of  the  prob-  natural,  then,  that  as  the  family  has  this  feature  close  before 

lem.     It  is  at  once  simple  and  yet  abundantly  dignified  and  its  eyes  at  those  brooding  times  when  one  seeks  rest  and 

has,  moreover,  as  suggested  above,  something  of  grace  and  comfort  before  it,  the  skill  and  the  ingenuity  of  the  selected 

lightness  :  its  thick  walls    promise   an  equable  temperature  designer  should  have  been  called  on  to  make  this  household 

within,  while  the  projecting  roofs  and  not  too  large  windows  shrine   more    and    more   refined.      This   done,    the   natural 

assure  relief  from  the  overpowering  brilliancy  of  a  Southern  sense  of  "keeping"  led  to  the  radiating  of  the  same  refining 

summer's   day.     The   use   of  jointed    drain-pipe    for   down-  influence,  first  through  the  room,  then  through  the  entire 

spouts  recalls  the  use  of  similar  pipe  for  the  same  purpose  interior  of  the  house,   and,  finally,  over   the  exterior,   and 

in  China  and  adds  to  the  columnar  interest  of  the  building,  here,  as  the  doorway  is  the  chief  exterior  feature,  a  similar 

The  last  step  in  the  evolution  of  the  veranda,  or  perhaps  refinement  centred  mainly  in  the  porch. 


more  properly  the  first,  and 
final,  step  in  its  devolution, 
was  due  to  the  gregarious  in- 
stincts and  social  needs  of 
the  householder.  The  open 
veranda  is  all  right  during 
most  of  the  year,  but  there 
are  seasons  when  one's 
guests  are  more  comfortable 
within  walls,  and  there  seem 
to  be  many  cases  where  the 
owner  has  decided  that  a 
satisfactory  ball-room  —  that 
essential  feature  of  the  house 
of  a  Southern  gentleman  — 
or  a  banqueting-hall,  would 
be  of  more  use  to  him  than  a 


A  c!osed-in  Veranda,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


At  the  South,  climatic  con- 
ditions made  the  gathering- 
place  where  the  family  sought 
rest  and  comfort,  not  the  heat- 
radialing  fireplace,  but  rather 
tiie  cool  external  veranda,  and 
it  happens  that  in  the  use 
of  this  household  shrine  the 
eye  was  habitually  turned 
away  from  its  constructive 
features  and  looked  outward 
to  the  charms  of  nature,  and, 
so,  the  work  of  the  designer 
distinctly  had  the  cold 
shoulder  turned  to  it,  and  its 
inaccuracies,  discrepancies 
and  the  coarseness  of  its  de- 


veranda  ;  and  so  we  have  houses  whose  interior  accommoda.  tails  escaped  a  correcting  observation.  Even  in  approaching 
tion  has  been  increased  by  enclosing  a  veranda,  as  in  the  the  house  the  veranda  was  observed  merely  as  one  of  the  large 
case  of  the  Pyatt  house  at  Georgetown,  or  the  house  at  parts  of  the  external  whole  and  the  owner  was  more  anxious 
Beaufort  shown  by  the  annexed  cut,  where  the  line  between  to  reach  its  refreshing  shade  than  to  spend  time  in  consider- 
the  original  veranda  floor  and  the  later  tabby-built  wall  above  ing  its  lack  of  correct  and  refined  detail.  We  think  that 
is  clearly  to  be  seen.  And  there  is  another  curious  old  house  climatic  influences  alone  may  be  enough  to  account  for  the 
in  the  same  place  which  shows  how,  as  the  family  member-  greater  refinement  and  delicacy  of  detail  in  Northern  Colo- 
ship  increases,  verandas,  which  both  downstairs  and  up,  were  nial  work,  just  as  they  explain  why  the  outside  of  the  South- 
originally  but  idling  and  cooling-off  places,  may  be  economi-  em  building  and  its  more  generous  plan  received  a  greater 
cally  converted  to  the  more  prosaic  uses  of  dressing,  nursing  consideration  from  the  owner  and  his  designer  there,  who 
and  sleeping.  knew  that  a  large  part  of  the  family's  time  was  to  be  spent 
There  is  indisputably  a  difference  between  Northern  and  outside  of  it,  and,  hence,  it  was  desirable  to  give  to  the  gen- 
^'PlateTy   lart^x!  erous  plan  as  agreeable  an  external  expression  as  possible. 


French  Santee,  South  Carolina. 


ABOUT  forty  miles  north  of  Charleston,  and  some  more  and  more  into  disrepair  —  where  a  few  descendants  of 
fifteen  miles  south  of  the  quaint  old  city  of  George-  Huguenot  planters  and  Revolutionary  soldiers  cling  fondly 
town  lies  the  "  Santee  River  region,"  one  of  the  to  the  traditions  of  their  ancient  dwellings. 
earliest-settled  portions  of  South  Carolina.  Much  The  Santee  region  proper  is  that  entire  tract  of  land  through 
of  the  architecture  there  is  old  and  interesting,  and  some  of  which  the  Santee  River  flows,  but  the  particular  portion  now 
It  IS  quite  unique.  referred  to  lies  between  the  north  and  south  branches  of  the 
This  section  of  the  State  is  but  little  known  to  the  public,  river.  About  twenty  miles  from  its  mouth  the  Santee  forks, 
but  maintains  a  quaint  Old-World  existence  of  its  own  ;  yet  forming  two  wide  yellow  streams  (with  a  delta  of  increasing 
prior  to  the  Revolution  it  was  second  to  no  other  part  of  width  between)  by  means  of  which  it  empties  itself  into  the 
South  Carolina  in  social  importance,  for  the  tax-returns  sea.  This  delta,  which  is  really  a  triangular  inland  island, 
of  that  period  show  that  over  five  thousand  negro  slaves  inasmuch  as  it  is  surrounded  on  two  sides  by  the  Santee 
were  kept  busy  in  the  Santee  swamps,  and  that  the  planters  and  on  the  third  by  the  sea,  and  the  low-lying  lands  on  either 
of  that  region  had  by  that  time  acquired  affluence,  and  in  bank,  having  been  enriched  from  time  to  time  by  alluvial  de- 
many    instances    great posits   from    frequent 

wealth.  The  old  houses 
of  this  locality  are  seldom 
simple  in  design,  as  the 
agricultural  pursuits  of 
their  builders,  and  their 
present  remoteness  from 
modern  progress,  would 
lead  one  to  expect  them 
to  be,  but  are  planned 
inore  or  less  after  the 
ideals  of  the  French  and 
English  aristocracy,  with 
great  guest-chambers, 
spacious  dining-rooms 
and,  not  infrequently,  a 
ball-room  ;  for  two  things 
governed  tiieir  erection 
—  the  desired  comfort  of 
their  occupants  and  the 
wish  to  meet  the  demands 
of  social  life  as  it  existed 
among  the  rich  rice-plant- 
ers of  the  "  Santee  River 
region."  The  sleeping- 
rooms  were  spacious,  well 
provided  with  closets  and 


overflows,  were  once  the 
richest  rice-lands  in 
the  South.  At  that  period 
immense  crops  of  grain 
were  realized  at  the  high- 
est values,  peace  and 
plenty  filled  the  land, 
and  the  fine  old  houses 
■  were  furnished  with  every 
comfort  and  supplied 
with  retinues  of  thor- 
oughly trained  servants. 
In  the  winter  they  were 
filled  with  guests,  but  the 
first  breath  of  summer 
found  them  deserted,  for 
the  curse  of  this  locality, 
as  of  all  oilier  low-lying 
sections  in  the  South,  is 
intermittent  fever.  To 
escape  it,  the  planters  of 
the  Santee  region  took 
j  theirfamilies  to  Pineville,' 
a  village  now  in  ruins, 
j  which  formerly  occupied 
a  high  ridge  of  piney  land 

well  lighted.  Almost  invariably  the  houses  had  wide  veran-  two  miles  south  of  the  Santee  Swamp,  and  five  miles  from 
das  at  the  back  and  front  and  were  well  situated.      They      the  river. 

were,  in  fact,  roomy  abodes  well  adapted  to  the  climate  and  A  long  summer  at  Pineville  was  an  ideal  existence.     Being 

they  represent  a  mode  of  life,  once  typical,  that  has  largely  all  Huguenot  planters  of  the  Santee  the  inhabitants  were  all 
passed  away  in  the  far  South  of  the  United  States.  Little  social  equals,  and  all  Episcopalians.  Furthermore,  they 
remains  now,  even  in  the  romantic  Santee  region,  to  witness  were  all  more  or  less  related  by  intermarriage.  Naturally 
to  that  life  but  these  old   houses  —  falling  year  after  year     they  met  without   consciousness  of   social   inferiority,  and 

'The  materials  used  in  construction  were  almost  invariably  ]uig-  woods,  buiiiu;  at  the  same  time  straijjlit-ijrained,  soft,  and  easily 
lish  brick  and  cvprt-ss,  in  whiih  tlie  fertile  swamps  of  the  .Santee  worked,  and,  therefore,  invaluable  for  car])entry.  Instances  are 
region  abound,  and  which,  probably,  accounts  for  tlie  fact  that,  known  of  doors  and  posts  of  cypress  that  have  lasted  i,ioo\ears. 
even  in  their  half-abandoned  state,  the  houses  are  so  well  preserved.  2]'ineville  was  established  in  1794  and  abandoned  in  iSiy. 

Cypress,  as   is  generally  known,  is   one  of  the   most  durable  of 

65 


Old  Wainbnro  [St. James's]  Chiircli,  French  Santee  [ij^'^J- 


66 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


BED    ROOM 


=CK> 


WEAItrA^T     BM 


MXS 


indulged  in  similar  social  habits,  which,  by  the  way,  were  typi- 
cal of  the  people  and  the  period.  Breakfast  at  Pineville  was 
commonly  served  at  sunrise,  after  which  each  planter  went  on 
horseback  to  visit  his  plantation,  taking  care  to  arrive  there 
after  the  sun  was  an  hour  or  so  high  and  all  danger  of  in- 
fection passed  until  after  sun- 
down. At  one  o'clock  dinner 
was  served  and  a  portion  of  the 
afternoon  that  followed  was  de- 
voted to  sleep.  Every  piazza  at 
Pineville  was  furnished  with  long 
benches,  and  upon  these  rude 
resting-places  the  gentlemen  of 
the  house  indulged  in  the  luxury 
of  a  siesta.  The  afternoon  nap 
over,  tea  and  hot  cakes  were 
served.  Seven  o'clock  supper 
closed  the  day,  for  which  every 
one  made  a  formal  toilet,  just  as 
in  England  they  dress  for  dinner. 
Then  social  life  began,  visits  be- 
insr  made  and  received  while  the 


arrriNo  sn 


yiN<i    ROO"^ 


Hampton." 


work,  Pineville  emptied  itself  back  into  the  Santee  rice  and 
cotton  fields  and  protracted  house-parties  took  the  place  of 
the  daily  coming  and  going  of  guests.  These  balls  on  the 
whole  were  very  simple  affairs  and  began  early.  The  lady 
leading  the  first  set  called  the  figures,  and  such  dear  roman- 
tic old  tunes  as  "  Money  Musk," 
"  Haste  to  the  Wedding,"  and 
"  La  Belle  Catherine  "  were  popu- 
lar favorites  at  Pineville  long 
after  they  had  been  forgotten 
elsewhere.  The  staple  dance  of 
every  evening's  entertainment 
was  the  cotillon.  Late  in  the 
evening  the  reel  was  called  and 
the  gayeties  were  concluded 
with  the  boulanger,  "a  dance," 
says  a  clever  writer,  "whose  quiet 
movements  seerrw  to  come  in  ap- 
propriately in  order  to  allow  the 
revellers  to  cool  off  before  expos- 
ing themselves  to  the  night  air." 
The  boulangbr,  by  the  way,  was 


•  E.^LL   ROOM 


»    »         f  i 


entertainers  and  those  entertained  sat  upon  verandas  in  the  the  most  important  dance  of  the  evening,  for  the  partners 

soft  starlight,  laughing  and   chatting,  wliile  great  bonfires  walked  home  together  by  the  ligiit  of  a  lantern  held  by  a 

sparkled  and  sputtered  before  them,  making  bright  the  dark  servant,  who  hurried  on  ahead.     Fever  was  the  summer  epi- 

yard.     It  was  the  custom  at  Pineville  to  light  these  bonfires  demic  in  the  Santee  swamps,  but  love  and  love-making  were 

as  soon  as  heavy  dusk  set  in,  and  they  were  the  unfailing  summer  epidemics  at  Pineville. 

features  of  every  evening's  festivities.  The  tract  of  land  marked  "  French  Santee"  on  all  the  old 


'  Hiimpton,  "  on  the  Santee,  Home  of  the  Riilledges. 


Riding,   hunting,  fishing,   dancing   and  visiting  were   the  maps  of  the  Carolinas  took  its  name  from  the  fact  that  in 

amusements  at  Pineville,  and  who  would  ask  for  any  better.?  1689,'  or  thereabouts,  a  colony  of   French    Huguenots,    in 

The  season  closed  every  year  with  a  Jockey  Club  Ball,  after  all  a  hundred  and  eighty  families,  driven  from  France  by  the 

which,   the   much   desired   frost   having    done   its    nurifvino-      ~T7^  :,     ^-       '■ — :, — TT 7 ' 

■j,    uuiic    11.3    puiiijing  1  Some  autlionties  give  the  date  as   1694. 


FRENCH  SANTEE,  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


67 


Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  settled  tlia  High  Hills 
of  the  Santee  and  the  low  lands  referred  to,  which  were  to  be 
afterwards  known  as  St.  James's  Parish.  Among  these  im- 
migrants were  some  bearing  names  that  are  well  known  in 
South  Carolina  to  this  day,  such  as  Huger,  Porcher,  Ravenel, 
Legar^,  St.  Julien,  Prioleau,  Du  Bosc,  De  Saussure,  Laurens, 
Mazycks,  Manigault  and  many  others.  Almost  all  of  these 
French  people  built  tiieir  homes  on  the  banks  of  tiiese  to-be- 
historic  waters,  some   set-   ^ 

tling  in  the  low  delta  be- 
tween the  two  forks  of  the 
river;  others  migrating 
farther  south  to  what  was 
afterwards  St.  Stephen's 
Parish,  or  "  English  San- 
tee," as  it  was  popularly 
called;  and  still  others 
pushing  as  far  inland  as 
what  is  now  St.  John's 
Parish. 

At  the  time  of  the  Revo- 
lutionary War  the  Santee 
River  was  settled  by  de- 
scendants of  the  French 
Huguenots,  from  French 
Santee  to  Eutaw  Springs 
—  where  General  Morgan 
finally  overcame  the  cruel 
Tarleton  in  1781 — most 
of  whom  owned  savan- 
nahs of  one  size  or  an- 
other and  cultivated  crops 
of  rice,  indigo  or  cotton.        

One  of  the  best  known  Santee  savannahs  was  -'The 
Rocks,"  which  was  acquired  by  Captain  Guillard  in  1794, 
and  owned  by  his  descendants  for  generations.  "White 
Plains"  was  also  well  known,  as  was  "  Milford,"  the  estate  of 
General  Moultrie.  "  Wantoot  "  was  the  savannah  of  Daniel 
Ravenel,'  the  son  of  Rene  Ravenel,  the  first  of  the  name  in 
America.  "  Gravel  Hill  "  was  a  place  of  considerable  celeb- 
rity on  the  Santee,  and  "Belle  Isle,"  the  plantation  of  that 
illustrious  soldier  Francis  Marion,  though  in  wretched  repair, 
is  still  to  be  seen  by  the  occasional  visitor  who  makes  a  pil- 
grimage to  it.  The  place  is  now  owned  by  one  of  General 
Marion's  descendants  and  namesakes.  The  house*  is  practi- 
cally deserted  and  the  plantation  is  not  always  under  cultiva- 
tion. Though  unoccupied  and  fast  falling  into  ruins,  the 
house  is  full  of  quaint  old  family  relics,  such  as  mahogany 
furniture  in  excellent  designs,  old  books  and  old  crockery, 
all  left  to  dust  and  decay. 

The  present  inhabitants  of  old  French  Santee  are  for  the 
most  part  the  descendants  of  the  original  settlers,  and  their 
homesteads  have  come  to  them  through  generations.  Al- 
though the  original  Huguenots  made  no  effort  to  preserve 
their  nationality,  and  their  children  were  allowed  to  speak 
English  and  were  encouraged  to  become  loyal  adherents  to 
the  British  crown,  there  still  remain  in  the  domestic  life  of  the 


The  Deserted  Parlor :  "Hampton.' 


region  many  traces  of  the  origin  of  the  people  who  inhabit 
it.  The  pillau,  for  instance,  is  even  now  a  coiiinion  dish  on 
their  tables,  and  that  cake  called  in  England  a  waffle  is  known 
by  them  as  a.gauffre.  In  suminertime  superfluous  fresh  meat 
is  still  "jerked";  and  in  French  Santee,  as  elsewhere  in  South 
Carolina  where  the  influence  of  the  French  Huguenot  and 
his  customs  have  invaded,  potted  meats  still  delight  the 
senses  with  their  peculiarly  savory  odors  and  delicious  flavors. 
.  Names,  too,  are  pro- 
nounced there  with  a  for 
eign  accent  to  this  day. 
Thus,  Du  Bosc  is  "  Du 
Biisk  "  in  French  Santee, 
and  Marion  "  Mahion." 

Up  to  a  hundred  years 
ago,  the  Santee  region  was 
well  settled  and  populous. 
It  was  connected  with 
Georgetown  and  Charles- 
ton by  means  of  a  well-kept 
stage-road  travelled  daily 
by  the  ponderous  vehicles 
of  those  times,  drawn  by 
four  stout  horses,  and  hav- 
ing post-houses  and  tav- 
erns for  the  refreshment  of 
travellers  at  intervals  along 
the  route.  But  the  old- 
fashioned  stage  has  also 
disappeared  into  the  past, 
and  the  French  Santee  is 
inaccessible  to  the  outside 
world   for    a    distance    of 


*  Daniel  Ravenel  died  in  1.S07. 

'  See  cuts,  pa;;es  6.S,  69. 

'  Dalcho,  in  his  "  Cluinh  History  "  of  South  Carolina,  gives  the 
following  account  of  St.  .Stephen's  Church  :  The  I'arish  of  St. 
Stephen's  was  laid  out  al)Out  i  762.  Tlie  church  is  one  of  tlie 
handsomest  of  the  county  cliurches  of  South  Carolina,  and  would 
be  no  mean  ornament  to  Cliarleston.  It  is  built  of  brick  and 
neatly  finished.  It  stands  on  the  main  river  road  about  12  1-2 
miles  from  the  Santee  canal.  The  north  and  south  sides  are  orna- 
mjnted  with   six  Doric  pilasters  and   each  end  with   four  of  the 


forty  miles  save  by  private  conveyance.  Gone,  too,  are  the 
inns,  and  the  traveller  is  now  compelled  to  make  his  trip 
through  this  almost  trackless  wilderness  in  a  single  day,  what- 
ever be  the  weather  or  condition  of  his  team.  Here  is  heard 
no  shriek  of  locomotive,  no  whistle  of  steamer.  No  tourist 
treads  its  solemn  groves  of  pine,  or  wanders  in  delight  under 
the  cathedral  arches  of  its  mighty  oaks. 

That  portion  of  Craven  County  south  of  the  Santee  River 
is  marked  by  a  species  of  solitary  grandeur  almost  un- 
equalled of  its  kind.  Uninterrupted  forests  of  pine  and 
cypress  trees  stretch  off  endlessly,  with  what  were  once  well- 
worn  avenues  running  through  them,  and  an  occasional 
stately  old  home  looming  up  in  the  lonely  distance.  Now 
and  then  a  church  coiues  in  view,  St.  Stephen's,' for  instance, 
which  stands  so  that  it  can  be  seen  from  afar  by  those  who 
approach  it  from  the  west,  or  the  east,  by  the  main,  or  river 
road.  This  church,*  like  the  old  homes  of  those  inhabitants 
who  planned  it  and  who  once  made  up  the  society  of  French 
Santee,  tells  a  story  of  past  importance  and  present  desola- 
tion. All  around  it  are  graves,  some  of  which  are  quite  lost 
in  the  fast-encroaching  wood  ;  others  are  enclosed  by  walls 
and  marked  with  quaint  stones,  and  overrun  with  creepers. 
The  stones  of  many  have  fallen  and  those  that  are  still  stand- 
ing are  worn  by  the  wind  and  weather  of  years.     "  If  you 

same  order.  Upon  a  brick  on  the  south  side  is  inscribed  '•  A.  1  low- 
ard,  Sev.  1 767,"  and  on  another  "  F.  Villepontoux,  Sev.  lyl'iy," 
these  being  the  names  of  the  architects.  At  the  east  end  is  a  large 
slashed  window  and  tlie  usual  tables  of  the  decalogue  and  com- 
mandments. At  the  west  end  is  a  large  gallery,  pewed.  There 
are  fortv-tive  pews  on  tlie  ground  floor,  which  is  tiled.  There  is  a 
handsome  mahogany  pulpit,  on  the  front  panel  of  which  are  tlie 
initials  '•  I.  H.  S."  The  ceiling  is  finished  in  the  same  manner  as 
that  of  St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston. 
M'late  IS,  Part  XI. 


68 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


stand  on  one  side  of  the  church,"  says  a  writer,  recalling  his 
visit  to  St.  Stephen's,  "  and  look  through  the  open  doors  (and 
they  are  never  closed),  you  see  a  road  coming  from  the  south. 
.  .  .  On  the  right  and  on  the  left  the  same  unbroken  line  of 
road  appears.  In  this  perfect  solitude,  whence  do  they  come  ? 
Strange  and  mysterious  traces  of  life  and  civilization!  To 
what  end  do  they  appear  to  have  been  constructed  ?  In  tiiis 
perfect  solitude,  whence  do  they  come,  whither  do  they  lead  ? 


turned  to  the  church,  where  they  are  still  used  whenever  it  is 
opened. 

Mrs.  Rebecca  Motte,  by  the  way,  was  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated Colonial  heroines  of  the  South,  and  the  mistress  of 
three  historic  homes.  One  of  these  was  the  Miles  Brewton 
house,^  of  Charleston,  which  she  inherited  from  her  brother's 
estate,  and  which  was  occupied  by  the  British  during  the  Rev- 
olution, as  their  headquarters.     Another  was  "Fort  Motte," 


n 


■     LAN  pi  HO     y 


3 


First-story  Plan. 


—  "Belle  Isle."  — 


Second-story  Plan. 


Strange  that  at  this  spot  they  should  unite,  and  that  they  all 
lead  to  the  grave." 

What  St.  Stephen's  is  to  English  Santee,  St.  James's  — 
commonly  called  "Old  Wamboro  "  Church  —  is  to  French 
Santee.  This  quaint  old  Colonial  relic,  wliich  ranks  third  in 
age  among  the  churches  of  South  Carolina,  stands  close  to 
the  old  stage-road,  not  far 
from  the  celebrated  estate 
of  Mrs.  Daniel  Horry  called 
"Hampton,"  and  about 
three  miles  from  the  Santee 
Ferry.  It  is  built  of  bricks 
brought  from  England  in 
the  reign  of  Queen  Anne 
and  was  first  opened  for 
worship  in  1768.  The 
building  is  square,  massive, 
and  without  grace  of  archi- 
tecture. It  is  paved  with 
brick  within  and  furnished 
with  the  high-backed  pews 
of  the  period  and  almost 
equally  high,  narrow- 
benches  which  serve  as 
seats  and  run  around  the 
sides  of  the  pews.  It  is  in 
excellent  repair,  though  sel- 
dom opened  for  service. 
Mrs.  Rebecca  Motte  gave 
a  ponderous  Bible  and 
prayer-books  to  this  church 
with  her  name  and  "  St.  James,  Santee,"  stamped  in  gilt  let- 
ters on  the  covers.  So  large  is  the  Bible  that  it  can  scarcely 
be  lifted  in  one's  arms;  yet  a  British  soldier  conceived  the 
extraordinary  idea  of  carrying  it  off  to  England  as  a  trophy, 
together  w-ith  the  altar  service.  There,  some  years  after  the 
Revolution,  these  stolen  articles,  exposed  for  sale  in  a  Lon- 
don book-stall,  were  purchased  by  a  liritish  officer,  who  had 
known  Mrs.  Motte  and  received  kindness  from  her,  and  re- 

1  Platesi.S-26,  I'art  .\. 


on  the  Congaree  River,  which  was  also  seized  by  the  British 
and  defended  by  a  stockade,  and  which  Mrs.  Motte  fired  with 
her  own  hands  in  order  to  oust  them  from  it  and  force  a 
Federal  victory  under  Generals  Marion  and  Lee.  The  third, 
"  El  Dorado,"  '  was  a  rice  plantation  on  the  Santee,  where  she 
movfcd  immediately  after  the  Revolution  and  erected  a  dwell- 
ing on  the  estate.  In  this 
work  she  was  assisted  by 
her  son-in-law.  Gen. Thomas 
Pinckney,  aide-de-camp  to 
Washington  and  later  one 
of  the  early  Governors  of 
South  Carolina.  "El  Do- 
rado," in  all  its  quaint  beau- 
ty, filled  as  it  was  with  his- 
toric relics,  was  burned  to 
the  ground  several  years 
ago.  Mrs.  Henry  Rut- 
ledge,  a  member  of  the 
Pinckney  and  Horry  fami- 
lies, a  descendant  of  Re- 
becca Motte's  and  formerly 
a  constant  visitor  at  "  EI 
Dorado,"  writes  the  follow- 
ing description  of  the  old 
place  for  the  ^'■Georgian 
Period" : — 

"'El  Dorado,'  "she  says, 
"was  approached  by  a 
broad,  straight  avenue, 
guarded  on  either  side  by 
oaks  and  magnolias.  The  central  part  of  the  house  was  occu- 
pied by  a  spacious  hall  and  a  beautifully  proportioned  room 
used  as  a  library  or  parlor.  The  ceiling  of  this  room  was  lofty, 
the  windows  and  doors  equally  so.  The  walls  were  panelled  in 
cypress  and  the  whole  finished  by  a  handsome  carved  cornice 
running  all  around  the  top  of  the  room.  The  narrow  mantel- 
piece, of  an  impossible  height,  requiring  a  step-ladder  to  reach 
it,  was  also  carved,  as  was  the  doorway — befitting  the  entrance 
«  Plates  18,  19,  Part  XI.  ' 


FREXCH  SAXTEE,  SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


69 


to  an  old  baronial  castle  —  that  led  into  the  hall.     On  either  up  to  the  house  is  remarkably  beautiful,  and  the  trees  are 

side  of  this  central  part  were  large  projecting  wings  contain-  very  aged.     Doubtless,  Tarleton  rode  under  them  in  their  vig- 

ing  bedrooms  of  the  same  lofty  type.     These  opened  on  a  orous  youth. 

wide  corridor,  on  the  opposite  side  of  which  were  many  large  Situated  higher  up  the  river  is  "Hampton,"  ^before  referred 

windows  that  looked  out  on   the  courtyard  below.     These  to,  the  home  of  the  Horrys  and  Rutledges  —  a  fine  wide- 


The  Front. 


—  ■' Belle  Isle,"     lieaufort,  S.  C  — 


wings  were  connected  by  a  long,  sunny  piazza.     On  the  north  spreading  house  with  lofty  pillared  portico  and  a  stretch  of 

side  of  the  house  was  a  large  porch  inlaid  with  tiles  —  black  cultivated  ground  around  it  reaching  out  to  the  woods  beyond. 

and  white  —  and  enclosed  by  an  iron  balustrade.     The  roof  Of  it,  Mrs.  Rutledge^  writes  as  follows  :  — 

was  supported  by  massive  cypress  pillars,  which  were  entirely  "  The  central  portion  of  the  house  is  very  old,  though  no  one 

concealed   by  ivy.     Ivy  and   a  climbing  rose  clothed  with  knows  the  exact  date  of  its  erection,  and  the  cypress  steps 

tender  grace  the   somewhat  ruinous  double  flight  of  stone  that  lead  to  the  second  story  are  worn  by  the  feet  of  many 


steps  which  led  to  the  grounds 
below,  where  was  once  a  laby- 
rinth of  evergreens,  and  wind- 
ing paths  led  in  and  out  in  a 
bewildering  maze.  In  these 
grounds  have  been  found  both 
cannon-balls  and  grape-shot 
that  have  lain  there  a  hundred 
years." 

"  Fairfield  " '  is  another 
South  Santee  mansion  of  anti- 
quity. It  is  now  fitted  up  as 
the  "South  Santee  Sports- 
man's Club,"  and  is  beauti- 
fully situated  on  a  blufl  forty 
feet  above  the  river,  of  which 
it  commands  a  wide  view,  up 
and  down.  A  walk  shaded 
with  evergreens  runs  at  the 
edge  of  the  bluff  for  a  quarter 
of  a  mile.  It  is  an  ideal 
winter  home,  protected  equally 
from  the  north  and  east  wind 
by  dense  shrubberies  on  either 
hand.  It  was  built  prior  to 
the  Revolution  by  a  member 
of  the  Pinckney  family  and 
was  Tarleton's    headquarters 


'^'h^^l^ 


Mantcljiiec 


generations.  These  rooms 
are  small  and  the  ceiling  low, 
but  this  original  house  of 
eight  rooms  was  enlarged  by 
Mrs.  Daniel  Horry  immedi- 
ately after  the  Revolution,  af- 
fording a  well-proportioned 
parlor  with  large  bedrooms 
behind  as  one  wing,  and  as 
the  other  a  ball-room  of  noble 
dimensions  and  lofty  arched 
ceiling  that  runs  up  to  the 
floor  of  the  attic,  there  being 
no  intervening  rooms  on  the 
second  story.  The  flooring 
of  this  room  is  perfectly  laid 
and  admirably  adapted  for 
dancing.  It  has  many  large 
windows,  on  the  cypress  panels 
between  which  may  be  seen 
the  traces  of  the  mirrors  and 
sconces  which  once  hung 
there.  The  handsome  cornice 
and  mantel  are  carved,  as  at 
'  Kl  Dorado,'  but  the  main 
feature  of  the  room  is  the 
huge  fireplace,  into  which  vis- 
itors may  walk  at  their  ease 
and  examine  the  pictured  tiles  which  line  either  side.     Mrs. 


%$>mg^mS!A 


I'.Uiet" 


while  he  was  in  this  neighborhood  ;  but  it  lias  been  so  mod- 
ernized as  to  leave  little  trace  of  its  original  form,  except  its      Horry  and    her   predecessors    understood   the  comfort  and 
tiled  roof  and  stack  chimneys.     The  grove  of  oaks  that  lead      convenience  of  closets,  for  there  are  fifteen  in  the  house, 

1  See  cut,  pao-e  70.  'Mrs.  Rutledge   and  her  husband  are  the  present  owners  of 

'  See  cut   pa'^e  66.  "  TIami)ton."     No  one,  therefore,  could  be  better  qualified  than 

she  to  give  an  account  of  its  many  quaint  features. 


•JO 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


some  of  them  large  enough  for  dressing-rooms,  with  broad  Still  another  quaint  residence  of  this  remote  country  was 

cypress  shelves  that  could  furnish  better  sleeping  accommo-  "  Woodville,"  which  has  also  been  destroyed  of  late  by  fire, 

dations  than  many  old-time  steamboats.     At  the  back  of  the  It  was  built  about  150  years  ago  —  all  the  materials  being 

house  the  ground   slopes  gently  to   a  pretty  creek,  beyond  imported  from  England.     The  family  were  English,  and  its 


'  Fairfield,"  on  the  South  Saiitee,  now  the  South  Santee  Sportsman's  Club.    [1763. 


which  rice-fields  stretch  to  the  river ;  and  this  slope  is  cov- 
ered with  shrubberies,  intersected  by  walks,  where  birds  and 
squirrels  make  their  happy  homes  ;  and  in  the  waim  spring 
days  the  air  is  redolent  with  the  per- 
fume of  sweet  shrubs. 

"  '  Hampton  '  claims  an  honor  beyond 
the  other  houses  in  the  neighborhood, 
for  General  Washington  was  once  its 
guest.  During  his  Southern  tour,  in 
May,  1 79 1,  he  breakfasted  with  Mrs. 
Horry  on  his  way  from  Georgetown  to 
Charleston.  As  the  sister  of  his  per- 
sonal friends  Gen.  Charles  Cotesworth 
Pinckney,  who  was  defeated  for  the 
Presidepcy,  in  1800,  by  John  Adams, 
and  Gen.  Thomas  Pinckney,  both  of 
whom  were  on  his  personal  staff  during 
the  Revolution,  she  was  known  to  him 
and  he  graciously  accepted  her  invita- 
tion to  break  his  long  ride  of  fifty  miles 
by  a  rest  at  her  house.  The  constant 
wear  of  a  hundred  years  has  compelled 
the  renewal  of  most  of  the  front  steps 
by  which  he  entered  the  house,  but  two 
still  remain  of  the  original  flight.  In 
the  cool  and  spacious  ball-room  the  table  was  laid,  and  care- 
fully treasured  by  Mrs.  Horry's  descendants  may  be  still 
seen  at  '  Hampton  '  some  of  the  Wedgwood  china  used  on 
the  occasion." 


Fairfield. 


appearance  reminded  one  of  a  keep  —  without  the  castle  to 
which  it  might  have  belonged.  "  Imagine,"  says  Mrs.  Rut- 
ledge,  "  a  circular  excavation  paved  and  walled  with  brick. 
The  earth  that  was  thrown  out  forms  a 
sloping  terrace  from  the  top  of  the 
brick  wall  to  the  low-lying  ground 
around.  This  is  now  overgrown  with 
grass,  but  removing  this  and  the  deep 
layer  of  soil  on  which  it  grows,  the 
traces  of  an  elevated  brick  walk,  per- 
haps fifteen  feet  wide,  may  be  seen  en- 
circling the  entire  moat.  In  the  centre 
of  the  courtyard  thus  formed  stood  the 
turret-like  house  of  four  stories  —  two 
rooms  on  a  floor.  Handsome  granite 
steps  bridged  the  moat  back  and  front, 
leading  to  graceful  porticos  defended 
with  iron  railings  that  give  entrance  to 
the  second  story.  The  interior  of  the 
house  was  richly  decorated  with  carving 
and  mouldings.  The  doors,  mantels  and 
cornices  all  were  interesting  and  ornate. 
The  folding  shutters  are  exceedingly 
curious,  and  nothing  could  exceed  the 
quaintness  of  the  tiny  attic,  full  of  un- 
expected corners,  weird  low  cuddy  doors,  and  even  here  two 
bedrooms  as  large  as  modern  doll-houses." 

Although  the  spirit  of  modern  progress  has  forgotten  old 
"  French  Santee,"  nature  continues  to  smile  on  this  quaintly 


SOME  ESTATES   ON  THE  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER   RIVERS 


71 


remote  region.  "  In  the  springtime,"  says  Mrs.  Rutledge, 
"the  swamps  are  unsurpassed  in  loveliness.  The  wealth  of 
flowers  and  variety  of  exquisite  shades  of  green  of  the  shrubs 
make  it  a  delight  to  live  out  of  doors  there.  The  yellow 
jessamine  comes  first  in  point  of  time,  as  well  as  in  perfec- 
tion of  beauty,  grace  and  perfume.  Then  there  is  the  Chero- 
kee rose,  climbing  with  its  strong  arms  to  the  tops  of  the 
tallest  trees  and  drooping  thence  in  immense  festoons  of 
glossy  dark-green  leaves  and  snowy  blossoms.  The  wistaria 
abounds  on  all  the  water-courses,  and  the  red  woodbine  and 
a  bush  resembling  the  spirea — a  snowy  white  from  top  to 
bottom — grow  side  by  side  on  the  river-banks.  The  dog- 
wood gleams  ghost-like  through  the  vistas  of  the  forest,  the 


fragile  fringe-tree  is  a  dream  of  grace,  and  the  honeysuckle, 
in  varying  shades  of  white  and  pink,  makes  the  air  faint  with 
perfume,  while  in  the  clear  streams  the  iris  — true  'fleur-de- 
lis  '  of  France  —  grows  in  profusion.  In  the  sandy  soil  under 
the  pines  are  found  immense  dark-blue  violets  with  stems  from 
four  to  five  inches  long.  Beds  of  tiny  scented  white  ones 
edge  the  morasses  and  the  banks  of  the  rice-fields  are  car- 
peted with  a  prolific  light-blue  variety." 

Until  recently  this  region  was  a  famous  hunting-ground, 
for  wild  turkey,  wild  duck,  woodcock  and  snipe  abounded, 
and  a  hundred  years  ago  the  old  stage  regularly  transported 
hampers  of  game  to  the  city  homes  of  the  rice-planters  of  the 
old  "  French  Santee."  c.  R.  S.  Horton. 


^^^ 


The  Old  Baptist  Schoolhouse,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


fs..^ 


Some  Estates  on  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers,  S.  C. 


DRAYTON  HALL  Ms  the  only  family  mansion  on 
the  Ashley  River  near  Charleston  which  escaped 
the  torch  applied  by  Sherman's  Army.  It  also 
would  have  shared  the  common  destiny  but  for 
the  fact  that  the  Drayton  family  was  divided  against  itself, 
and  Capt.  Percival  Drayton,  of  the  United  States  Navy,  a 
brother  of  Gen.  Thomas  S.  Drayton,  commander  in  the  Con- 
federate Army,  and  the  then  owner  of  Drayton  Hall,  was 
stationed  outside  the  bar  with  the  fleet  that  so  long  block- 
aded Charleston  Harbor.  Realizing  the  danger  that  threat- 
ened the  family  mansion  he  sent  a  special  guard  to  protect  it. 
The  estate,  of  which  this  fine  old  relic  is  a  part,  joins  an- 
other equally  celebrated,  known  as  "Magnolia  on  the  Ash- 
ley." Both  of  these  properties  are  entailed  in  the  Drayton 
family,  and,  although  they  are  now  owned  by  distant  cousins, 
were  originally  settled  by  father  and  son. 

Thomas  Drayton,  the  founder  of  the  family,  was  one  of 
the  many  Englishmen  who  came  from  the  Barbadoes  with 
Sir  Thomas  Yeamans.  He  received  a  grant  from  the  Crown 
comprising  several  thousand  acres,  which  he  settled  in  1761, 
calling  the  place  "Magnolia  on  the  Ashley,"  because  of  the 
magnolia-grandiflora  trees  that  grew  there  in  natural  abun- 
dance. In  1742,  John  Drayton,  the  eldest  son  of  Thomas 
Drayton,  and  himself  the  father  of  William  Henry  Drayton, 
one  of  the  distinguished  men  of  the  Revolution  and  the  grand- 
father of  John  Drayton,  a  governor  of  South  Carolina,  built 
Drayton  Hall  on  an  adjoining  tract. 

'  Plate  39,  Part  X. 


The  glace  takes  its  name  from  the  family  estate  in  North- 
amptonshire, England,  and  the  hall  itself  cost  ninety  thousand 
dollars,  all  the  materials  being  imported  from  England.  It 
is  still  in  excellent  preservation,  although  unoccupied,  and  is 
built  of  red  brick  with  columns  of  Portland  marble.  The  stair- 
case, mantel  and  wainscot,  which  extends  in  quaint  fashion 
from  floor  to  ceiling,  are  of  solid  mahogany  richly  carved  and 
panelled.  Over  the  mantel  are  stationary  carved  frames  for 
family  portraits  and  heraldic  devices  ;  and  the  great  fire- 
place is  inlaid  with  antique  colored  tiles.  To  this  day  many 
stories  are  told  of  the  dinners  and  balls  held  at  Drayton 
Hall  in  the  great  old  days,  when  the  house  would  be  ablaze 
with  a  thousand  tapers,  and  carpets  were  laid  down  the  stair- 
cases, front  and  back,  and  across  the  gardens,  so  the  ladies 
might  alight  from  their  carriages  and  enter  the  Hall  without 
soiling  their  delicate  slippers  or  the  airy  lace  and  satin  of 
their  robes. 

"  Magnolia  on  the  Ashley  "has  been  less  fortunate  than 
Drayton  Hall,  for  its  dwelling  has  been  twice  destroyed  by 
fire,  once  during  the  Revolution,  after  which  it  was  rebuilt, 
and  later  by  Sherman's  Army.  Its  chief  glory  is  now  its 
gardens,  which  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  are 
visited  annually  by  thousands  of  tourists.  Their  most  pictur- 
esque feature  is  the  display  of  azaleas  in  all  shades  and 
tints,  crimson  and  pink,  and  blue  and  purple,  with  now 
and  then  a  pure  white  bush.  The  gardens  are  in  perfect 
preservation.  Smooth  walks  wind  through  rich  wildernesses 
of   color;    placid    lakes  mirror  a  thousand    diff'erent   hues; 


72 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


great  live-oak  trees  are  weighted  down  with  moss;  and  walls 
of  rhododendrons  and  banks  of  golden  banksias  lend  their 
gay  colors  to  the  brilliant  picture. 

Before  the  azaleas  begin  to  decline,  the  camellia-ja- 
ponica  trees  burst  into  flower  and  delight  the  onlooker 
with  perfections  undreamed  of.  There  are  six  acres  of 
these,  white  and  pink  and  mottled,  which  grow  in  clusters 
of  great  cone-shaped  bushes,  scentless  and  cold,  but  exquisite 
to  behold  in  the  tropical  luxuriance  of  these  unequalled 
gardens.  A  little  later  as  the  spring  advances  the  magnolia 
trees  come  to  blossom.  Then,  indeed,  the  place  is  an  en- 
chanted spot  worthy  of  a  queen  in  state.  The  waters  of  the 
Atlantic  ebb  and  flow  languorously  in  the  river,  where  on 
each  bank  the  lush  grass  grows.     The  air  is  heavy  with  fra- 


gardener  who  is  associated  with  early  American  history. 
He  did  considerable  fine  work  in  and  around  Charleston, 
and  at  one  time  had  charge  of  Sir  William  Middleton's  gardens 
at  Shrubland,  Suffolk,  which  are  celebrated,  even  in  England, 
for  their  extent  and  beauty.  One  of  the  things  planted  at 
Middleton  Place  by  Michaux  was  a  camelliajaponica  bush 
which  thrived  prodigiously,  quite  outclassing  in  perfection 
any  others  planted  at  the  same  time,  or  since,  in  fact. 

It  so  happened  that  some  fifty  or  sixty  years  ago,  Mr. 
William  Middleton,  on  one  of  his  visits  to  England,  had  a 
permit  to  inspect  the  gardens  of  Windsor  Castle.  The  head- 
gardener  showed  him  through  all  the  greenhouses,  pointing 
out  first  one,  then  another  of  the  choice  specimens  there. 
Finally,  he  led  him  to  a  house  apart  from  the  others,  in  the 


A  C.arden  Walk,  "  Magiiolia  on  ihe  Asliley. 


grance,  and  the  great  trees  loom  in  stately  inasses,  sheltering 
their  proud  blossoms  amid  the  cool  shadows  of  waxy  leaves. 
In  the  midst  of  all  this  floral  munificence  stands  the  tomb  ^ 
of  the  Draytons',  where  six  generations  are  sleeping. 

The  camellia  japonica,  by  the  way,  is  one  of  the  show 
flowers  of  the  lowlands  of  South  Carolina,  where,  though  not 
indigenous,  it  reaches  even  greater  perfection  than  in  the  land 
of  its  birth.  One  of  the  finest  camelliajaponica  trees  in  the 
world  is  at  "  Middleton  Place,"  on  the  Ashley  River,  not  far 
from  Drayton  Hall.  The  house  of  Middleton  Place  is  now 
in  ruins,  having  been  one  of  the  many  burned  by  Sherman's 
Army  ;  but  the  garde-ns  give  evidence,  even  at  this  late  day, 
of  the  great  perfection  they  attained  at  one  time.  They 
were  laid  out  in   1750  by  Michaux,  a  celebrated  landscape- 

^  Platu  20,  I'art  XI. 


centre  of  which  was  a  small  camellia  bush  showing  some 
twenty  or  thirty  blooms. 

"  There !  "  said  the  head-gardener  with  pride.  "  Is  not  that 
beautiful  ?     Is  it  not  superb  —  unique  ?  " 

"It  is  very  pretty,  indeed,''  said  Mr.  Middleton,  or  words 
to  that  effect. 

"I  consider  it  the  choicest  specimen  in  the  entire  collec- 
tion," said  the  head-gardener.  '■  Do  you  not  agree  with 
me?  ' 

"  Yes,"  replied  Mr.  Middleton,  "  I  think  perhaps  it  is." 

The  gardener  was  chagrined  at  the  evident  lack  of  enthusi- 
asm on  the  part  of  the  American,  and  pressed  him  further. 

"  But  isn't  it  the  finest  bush  of  the  kind  you  ever  saw  ? " 

"Well,  no,"  replied  Mr.  Middleton.  "I  have  in  my 
garden  at  home  a  camellia-japonica  tree  that  is  twenty  feet 


SOME  ESTATES  ON  THE  ASHLEY  AND   COOPER  RIVERS. 


71 


high,  and  when  I  left  it  had  on  it,  as  near  as  I  can  calculate, 
about  four  thousand  blooms." 

"  Why,  bless  my  soul !  "  exclaimed  the  Queen's  gardener, 
"you  must  be  a  Middleton  of  Middleton  Place,  in  the  Caro- 
linas.  We  know  of  that  tree.  It  was  planted  by  Michaux 
in  1750,  and  is  one  of  the  botanical  wonders." 

Nature  is  in  a  bountiful  mood  on  the  banks  of  the  Ashley 
River,  and  occasionally  takes  it  into  her  head  there  to  do 
her  very  best,  as  in  this  instance,  and  again  in  the  case  of  a 
giant  live-oak  tree  in  the  pasture  of  Drayton  Hall  which  has 
grown  to  enormous  size  and  perfection,  and  was  pronounced 
by  Professor  Sargent,  the  botanist,  the  most  beautiful  tree  of 
its  kind  in  the  world.  This  live-oak,  in  common  with  all 
trees  near  the  South  Carolina  coast,  is  draped  with  tillandsia, 
that  peculiar  mosslike  growth  peculiar  to  lowland  forests 
near  the  Southern  Sea. 

The  wonderful  productiveness  of  the  Ashley  River  region 
made  it  formerly  the  seat  of  the  rich  cavalier  planters  of 
South  Carolina.  The  Izard  family  resided  near  "The  Oaks," 
near  Goose  Creek  Church,  which  was  settled  in  1678. 
"Crowfield  '  was,  until  1754,  another  residence  of  the  Mid- 
dleton family.  "Ashley  Hall"  was  the  home  of  the  Bull 
family.  Across,  on  Cooper  River  were  many  other  splendid 
old  homes  :  "  Yeamans  Hall  "  was  built  there  by  Sir  Thomas 
Yeamans  about  1680. 

"The  house,"  says  an  early  chronicler,  "  was  of  brick,  said 
to  have  been  brought  over  from  England.  It  was  a  two- 
story  structure  with  basement,  almost  square,  with  an  exten- 
sion in  the  rear,  and  a  broad  veranda  at  the  front.  The 
interior  was  elegantly  finished.  The  walls  were  painted  in 
panels  representing  landscapes,  and  hung  with  tapestries. 
The  large  fireplaces  wc;re  lined  with  Dutch  tiles  in  blue  and 
white,  depicting  Biblical  scenes.  At  the  time  of  my  visit  the 
house  had  not  yet  been  burned,  and  remains  of  this  former 


beauty  could  be  seen  in  the  broken  cornices  and  handsome 
mouldings  around  the  rooms.  Entering  from  the  front  you 
came  into  a  large  hall,  with  an  immense  chimney-place  in  one 
corner;  from  this  hall  led  doors  communicating  with  four 
rooms,  another  door  gave  access  to  the  rear  of  the  house, 
from  which  a  staircase  led  to  the  upper  story.  Between  the 
walls  of  the  upper  and  lower  stories  of  an  extension  in 
the  rear  of  the  building  was  situated  a  secret  chamber,  ac- 
cess to  which  was  had  through  a  trap-door  concealed  in  a 
closet. 

"  This  house  was  constructed  with  a  view  to  defense  in  case 
of  any  attack  from  hostile  Indians.  In  the  basement  the 
walls  are  pierced  at  intervals  on  all  sides  with  loopholes  for 
firearms,  as  is  also  the  wall  of  the  staircase  leading  to  the 
upper  floor.  In  the  basement  once  could  be  seen  the  en- 
trance to  an  underground  tunnel,  arched  with  brick,  which 
led  to  an  opening  near  the  creek,  thus  affording  a  means  of 
escape  for  the  family  if  hard  pressed.  There  was  a  haunted 
chamber  where  the  ghost  of  a  stately  dame,  arrayed  in  costly 
brocade,  was  wont  to  appear." 

Mulberry  Towers,  the  home  of  the  Broughton  family,  com- 
monly called  "The  Mulberry,"  is  also  on  the  Cooper  River; 
likewise  "  Belvedere,"  and  the  ruins  of  "  Medway,"  the  home 
of  Landgrave  Thomas  Smith. 

At  the  time  of  the  Revolution  social  life  on  the  Ashley  and 
Cooper  rivers  was  conducted  on  a  splendid  scale,  equalled 
only  by  that  of  the  gentleman  planters  of  the  James  River. 
The  English  who  settled  that  section,  by  the  way,  the  Harri- 
sons, the  Byrds,  the  Carters  and  the  Berkeleys,  were  of  the 
same  political  and  social  class  as  those  who  composed 
the  society  of  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  rivers,  and  their 
homes  for  the  most  pai't,  though  on  the  whole  less  architect- 
ural because  of  the  inability  to  secure  skilled  labor,  represent 
the  same  general  ideas  of  construction.  H. 


Q     Q 

Q 


^|iM#-~iNi 


7^ 


Q     Q 
Q 


'The  Wedge,"  South  Santee,  S.  C. 


Beaufort,  S.  C,  an  Island  Capital. 


AFTER  a  stay  in  dull  and  tedious  commercial  Savan- 
nah, the  little  sea-trip  to  Beaufort  was  a  welcome 
change  and  full  of  interest.  Sailing  about  noon, 
the  little  steamer  slipped  slowly  down  the  river, 
past  the  old  wharves  and  warehouses  and  the  newer  docks  of 
the  cotton-freighted  steamers,  which  afTord  more  picturesque- 
ness  than  any  otlier  feature  in  the  city,  for,  be  it  remembered, 
the  city  being  built  on  a  high  bluff,  on  the  southern  bank,  the 
warehouses  and  offices  which  line  the  edge  of  the  bluff,  while 
to  the  south  presenting  a  front  of  only  two  or  three  stories, 
in  the  rear  descend  sheer  seven  or  eight  stories,  frowning  like 
precipices  with  their  granite  walls  and  heavy  stacks  of  chim- 


hilarity  was  infectious.  Many  of  them  were  looking  forward  to 
a  cake-walk  on  the  morrow  night,  and  were  dressed  in  their 
Sunday  best.  One  little  dandy,  in  patent  leathers,  polished 
his  shoes  no  less  than  four  times  that  afternoon.  A  party 
of  young  women  were  discussing  the  vagaries  of  a  too  amor- 
ous father.  "  So  you  poppa  gone  mahyid  again."  "  Sho,  my 
poppa  done  bring  home  a  new  step-momma,  an'  I  ain't  gwine 
to  Stan' it.  He  don't  count  anyway."  "  Well,"  exclaims  a 
companion,  "  if  my  poppa  were  to  bring  home  a  new  step- 
momma,  I'd  kill  him."  Whether  disaster  followed  the  father 
in  question  or  not,  the  incident  was  soon  forgotten  in  the  in- 
terest aroused  by  the  setting  out  from  the  shore  of  one  of 


l£}^y-  gfTncet  Front 
s.C. 


neys  ;  and  the  winding  cuts  from  the  higher  level  to  the 
cobble-stoned  street  flanking  the  wharves  have  an  ancient 
and  somewhat  military  appearance.  After  passing  out  of  the 
river  and  by  Tybee  Island  and  lighthouse,  the  "Nahant"  of 
Savannah,  we  take  a  northerly  but  not  an  open-sea  course, 
as  a  stranger  half  expects,  zigzagging  through  an  endless 
series  of  islands,  all  characteristically  similar,  low  and  flat, 
but  looking  deliciously  cool,  fringed  with  the  ever-present 
•Georgia  palms,  and  tall  salt  grasses,  so  bleached  in  the  sun 
that  they  vie  with  the  silver  strand  in  whiteness.  Here  and 
there  a  white  cottage  or  some  farm-steading  breaks  the 
solitariness,  and  stands  in  relief  against  some  distant  wood- 
land, while  a  column  of  smoke  from  some  camping  party 
may  be  seen  pirouetting  skyward. 

There  was  a  merry  party  of  colored  folks  aboard,  and  their 


the  islands  of  a  boat  which  met  us  and  took  off  a  number  of  our  ' 
colored  contingent  amid  screams  of  greeting  and  farewell, 
and  the  promise  to  meet  on  the  morrow  night.  And  so  on, 
ever  and  anon,  a  boat  would  pull  out  to  us  in  mid-stream  and 
take  on  a  few  passengers  and  various  freight,  not  forgetting 
many  flasks  of  vile  whiskey.  It  was  the  same  experience 
as  on  the  canals  in  Santee.  Many,  many  times  we  stopped  to 
supply  some  boat-load  with  soft  wood  (to  be  used  as  torches 
at  night  in  the  raid  on  the  rice-birds),  or  grain,  but  most 
often  with  a  number  of  "  sealed  packages  "  of  whiskey,  and 
away  the  boat's-crew  would  pull  back  to  their  eyrie  through 
some  inlet  in  the  tall  pampas  grasses  fringing  the  islands. 
Then  we  stopped  at  some  military  post,  where  a  number  of 
officers  and  men  in  khaki  uniform  were  at  the  pier-end  to 
take  all    in   and   be  taken   in  by  many  critical  glances  of 


74 


BEAUFORT,    S.    C,   AN  ISLAND   CAPITAL. 


75 


the  fair  sex.     About  six  o'clock  we  reached  Port  Royal,  the      arated  from  home  lies.      After  inspecting  the  new  dry-dock 
naval  station,  and  there  discharged  a  good  deal  of  freight,      there,  we  went  aboard  again  and  pursued  our  journey  for 


Door-head  :     Franz  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


Door-head:     "Mount  lirlstol,"  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


r  ,^^rwi^^^^'' 


■%^...-;,,,, 


'Tabby-built"  Cabins,  St.  Catherine's  Isl.ind,  Coast  of  Georgia. 


'^ 


..i^mmi'j^wm^ 


^^mfflii^K 


Old  College  Building,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


*(. 


/a^n'- 


.m 


"  Mount  Bristol,"  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


conspicuous  amongst  which  were  some  ample  cases  of  Motjt      the  four  or  five  miles  more  that  brought  us  to  Beaufort.  As  the 
&  Chandon,  to  enliven  the  dull  tedium  of  officialdom  sep-      evening  darkened  the  full  moon  rose,  and,  with  a  sky  of 


76 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


deep  turquoise,  the  water  without  a  ripple  and  reflecting  the 
sky,  as  we  neared  the  town,  where  from  the  deep  shadow  of 
heavy  foliage  peeped  many  old  and  galleried  houses,  silvered 
by  the  moonlight,  and  all  again  mirrored  in  the  glassy  waters, 
there  was  presented  a 
picture  indelibly  im- 
pressed on  one's  mem- 
ory. Beaufort,  the 
dreamy,  silent,  quaint, 
with  gardens  redolent 
of  opopanax  and  many 
odorous  shrubs.  The 
very  hotel  was  an  old- 
t  i  m  e  planter's  man- 
sion, and  from  it,  after 
registering,  a  voyage 
of  discovery  was  in 
order,  a  trip  that  prom- 
ised  much  and  de- 
lighted the  eye,  and 
although  a  subsequent 
and  closer  inspection 
failed  to  unearth  much 
in  the  way  of  architec- 
tural and  decorative 
detail,  yet  as  a  group 
of  old-time  houses  and 
picturesque  streets 
there  was  sufficient  to 
make  the  old  town 
well  worthy  of  the 
visit. 

Beaufort  was  the 
summer  home  of  the 
planters,  who  came  in 
May  and  left  about 
November  isth  for 
their  plantations.  The 
houses  were  built  ac- 
cordingly with  an  eye 

to  air  and  space,  with  cool  verandas  overlooking  the  water, 
or  bay,  which  here  surrounds  three-quarters  of  the  town. 
Here  families  well  known  to  each  other  intermingled  year  by 
year  and  gave  themselves  over  to  boating,  bathing  and 
fishing,  and  a  good  time  gen- 
erally, through  the  summer 
months.  As  a  rule,  these  sum- 
mer houses  were  not  built  as 
solidly  or  with  such  complete 
accommodations  as  the  planta- 
tion mansions,  and  here  notice- 
ably absent  are  the  extensive 
slave  or  servant  quarters,  so 
that  it  is  evident  that  only  a 
limited  number  of  domestics 
was  brought  down  with  the 
family  and  resided  in  the  house. 
The  details  of  cornices  and 
mantels,  and  the  wooden  finish 
generally,  have  a  family  like- 
ness, and  are  peculiar  to  the 

locality.  The  old  Baptist  parsonage  and  the  old  Elliott 
house  are  particularly  so,  as  also  the  old  Franz  house,  from 
the  upper  veranda  of  which  La  Fayette  addressed  the  people 
of  the  town  below  in  the  street.  In  the  Fuller  house,  on 
Bay  Street,  of  which  the  double  portico  is  given  in  a  sketch, 


The  South  Doorway:    St.  Helena's,  Beaufort,  S.  C, 


An  Old  Brick  Tomb,  Beaufort,  S.  C, 


we  have  tabby  built  walls,  very  solid,  and  to  which  the  slen- 
der portico  carried  up  through  the  two  stories  gives  relief 
from  the  severity  of  outline.  'i"he  staircase  is  interesting 
in    its  double  return  flight  from  the  first  central  landing. 

This  house  is  a  type, 
with  its  portico,  of  sev- 
eral others  in  the  town. 
There  are  also  some 
creditable  mantels, 
and  the  cornices  are 
good  J  but  in  these 
houses,  as  in  all  the 
South,  amplitude 
seems  everywhere  to 
have  had  prime  con- 
sideration. 

In  one  of  the  gar- 
dens I  noticed  a  very 
medley  of  strange- 
shaped  beds,  star, 
oval,  round,  octagonal 
and  crescent,  each 
edged  with  a  border 
of  rounded  stones,  af- 
ter the  manner  of  the 
garden  of  the  Bull- 
Pringle  house  in 
Charleston,  with  wind- 
ing walks  between  and 
a  little  pool  and  foun- 
tain. But  what  is  ob- 
servable in  the  South- 
ern gardens  is  the  lack 
of  moisture,  and  such 
lawns  as  one  sees  in 
i  the  North  are  not  to 
be  found.  The  grass 
is  stubby,  strong  and 
thick  bladed,  and  it  is 
in  the  shrubbery  and 
vines  that  the  gardens  excel,  and  produce  such  languorous 
beauty. 

A  beautiful  section  of   the  town   is  what  is  called  "  the 
point,"  surrounded  by  water,  and  here  the  old  houses,  with 

their  accompaniments  of  great 
oaks  with  their  long  wandering 
branches  and  dark  foliage,  af- 
ford some  marvellous  silhou- 
ettes of  an  evening.  Indeed, 
Beaufort  should  be  an  artist's , 
paradise,  so  full  is  it  of  the  pic- 
turesque, mixed  with  a  bewitch- 
ing suggestion  of  antiquity. 

Of  the  two  old  churches,  St. 
Helena's  is  the  Episcopal,  of 
which  the  townspeople  are 
justly  proud.  Standing  in  a 
great  churchyard,  with  en- 
trances on  three  sides,  full  of 
old  tombs  and  family  burial- 
plots,  walled  in  with  low  brick 
walls,  and  interspersed  with  magnificent  trees,  it  is  the  central 
attraction  to  visitors,  and,  contrary  to  the  general  sentiment, 
there  are  many  of  the  townspeople  who  delight  just  to  walk 
there,  so  beautiful  and  quiescent  are  the  winding  paths  amid 
so  many  flowering  and  odorous  shrubs.     While  the  interior 


5i.,i*«j5'^' 


BEAUFORT,    S.    C,   AN  ISLAND   CAPITAL. 


77 


has  been  modernized,  the  exterior  is  unchanged,  and  re- 
tains all  its  original  features,  with  the  exception  of  the  bell- 
tower,  which  has,  I  believe,  been  burned  once  or  twice,  and 
reconstructed  without  be- 
ing properly  finished.  In 
the  churchyard  is  an  old 
brick  tomb,  and  the  story 
goes  that  the  tenant  be- 
fore his  demise  was  so 
fearful  of  being  buried 
alive,  and  of  suffocation, 
that  after  building  his 
burial  vault  he  made  a 
stipulation  that  when  he 
was  laid  away  there  should 
be  placed  beside  his  cof- 
fin, whose  lid  was  to  be 
left  unscrewed,  a  jug  of 
water  and  a  loaf  of  bread ; 
and  this  was  done,  and 
food  and  drink  were  kept 
there  until  such  time  as 
any  possible  reawakening 
was  out  of  the  question. 
These  old  burial  vaults 
are  peculiar  in  their  form, 
as  will  be  seen  from  the 
sketches  of  the  one  in 
question  and  also  of  one 
in  the  Colonial  cemetery 
in  Savannah'.  They  are 
literally  houses  (gabled 
houses)  of  the  dead,  and 
their  roofs  of  brick  often 
sag  inwards  from  their 
weight.  With  vines  creep- 
ing over  them  they  are  of- 
ten quite  pretty.  The  old 
Baptist  church,  nearly  co- 
eval with  its  neighbor,  St.  Helena's,  is  interesting  in  its  way, 
but  of  an  ordinary  type. 

'See  tut  in  I'art  XII. 


LaiKJing 


■t^ 


Stair-landing  in  the  Beardsley  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


After  a  week  in  Beaufort  I  was  lotli  to  leave.  There  one  is 
conscious  of  the  very  antithesis  of  the  modern  spirit  of  rush, 
and  crowding,  and  haste.     In  times  of  business  pressure  and 

overburdening  cares,  it  is 
positively  soothing  to  let 
one's  thoughts  travel  to 
and  stay  in  such  a  place 
as  Beaufort.  But,  alas ! 
this  will  not  last  long,  for 
already  there  is  a  big 
modern  hotel  contracted 
for  under  a  Boston  archi- 
tect, and  the  old  homes 
are  being  sought  after 
and  bought,  and  being 
changed  to  suit  modern 
ideas  and  tastes. 

Thus  the  entering 
wedge  of  modern  and  so- 
called  advanced  civiliza- 
tion is  forcing  its  way  in  ; 
but  it  will  take  a  long  time 
to  modernize  sleepy  old 
Beaufort,  though  not  so 
long  to  depreciate  its  pres- 
ent quiet  picturesqueness. 
There  is  an  old  hostel- 
ry now,  once  an  old  plant- 
er's house,  that  thorough- 
ly expresses  the  spirit  of 
the  place.  Mine  host  is 
a  character,  and  a  most 
genial  and  kindly  one. 
Everything  that  can  be 
done  to  make  the  guest 
happy  is  done,  and  in  the 
"Sea  Island  Hotel"  will 
be  found  a  true  home  for 
the  wayfarer,  better  than 
any  gorgeous  modern  hotel  can  supply,  for  the  reason  that 
in  it  you  are  made  one  of  the  family. 

E.  Eldon  Deane. 


;i^^ 


St.  Michael's  and  St.  Philip's,  Charleston,  S.  C. 


!•'  Proclamation 
money,  which  is  also 


ST.  MICHAEL'S,  the  second  home  of  the  Church  of 
England  in  Charleston,  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the 
first  St.  Philip's,  which,  for  the  second  time,  outgrew 
itself  by  1751.  This  necessitated  the  founding  of 
a  new  parish,  to  which  end  an  act  was  passed,  in  part,  as  fol- 
lows: '-That  all 
that  part  of  Charles- 
ton, situated  and 
lying  to  the  south- 
ward of  the  middle 
of  Broad  Street  .  .  . 
be  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Parish 
of  St.  Michael's," 
and  that  a  church 
be  erected  "  on  or 
near  the  spot 
where  the  old 
church  of  St.  Phil- 
ip's, Charleston, 
formerly  stood,"  at 
a  cost  to  the  public 
of  not  more  than 
17,000  pounds, 
proclamation 
money.^ 

The  church 
erected  under  this 
act  still  stands,  an 
enduring  monu- 
ment to  the  archi- 
tectural ideas  and 
taste  of  old  Charles- 


frequently  mentioned 
in  our  Acts  of  Assem- 
bly, acquired  that 
denomination  from  a 
proclamation  of 
Queen  Ann  in  the 
sixth  year  of  her 
reign,  about  the  year 
1 708  :  the  object  of 
which  was  to  estab- 
lish a  common  meas- 
ure of  value  for  the 

paper   currencies    of  ' 

llie  Colonies.  .  .  .  The  standard  fixed  by  the  proclamation,  was, 
one  hundred  and  thirty-tlirce  pounds,  six  shillings  and  eight  pence 
(133.  6.  8.)  paper  currency,  for  one  hundred  pounds  sterling.  The 
dollar  jiassed  at  six  shillings  and  tliree  pence."  —  lirevard''s  ^^  Al- 
pliabetical  Dii^cst  of  tlie  Piihlic  Lai^is  of  South  Carolina.^'' 

"...  the  confusion  arising  from  the  different  values  of  British 
sterling  and  provincial  pa|)er  money,  liecame  general  throughout 
the  Colonies.  In  some  a  dollar  passed  for  six  shillings,  in  otliers  for 
seven  and  sixpence,  in  North  Carolina  and  New  York  for  eight 
shillings,  in  South  Carolina  for  one  ])Ound  twelve  shillings  and  six- 
])ence.     In  the  latter,  tlie  comparative  value  of  sterling  coin  and 


St.  Michael's  Churcli,  Cliarkston,  S.   C. 


ton,  and  is  famous  not  only  for  its  historic  associations,  but 
also  for  its  antique  chime  of  bells.^     It  was  opened  for  Divine 
service  on  February  i,   1761,  six  years  earlier  than  Christ 
Church,  Alexandria,  Va.,  where  Washington  worshipped. 
The  corner-stone  of  St.  Michael's  was  laid  February  17, 

1752,  by  Governor 
Glenn,  and  con- 
cerning this  cere- 
mony the  Charles- 
ton Gazette  of  Feb- 
ruary 2  2  of  that  year 
speaks  as  f  ol  1  o  ws : — 

"The  Commis- 
sioners for  the 
building  of  the 
Church  of  St. 
Michael's  of  this 
town,  having 
waited  on  His  Ex- 
cellency, the  Gov- 
ernor, to  desire  that 
he  would  please  lay 
the  first  stone,  on 
Monday  last,  His 
Excellency,  at- 
tended by  several  of 
His  Majesty's 
Honorable  Coun-^ 
cil,  with  the  Com- 
missioners, and 
other  gentlemen, 
was  pleased  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  spot 
and  lay  the  same, 
and  accordingly, 
and  therefor  a  sum 

paper  money  di- 
verged so  far  from 
each  other  that  after 
passing  through  all 
the  intermediate 
grades  of  deprecia- 
tion, it  was  finally 
fixed  at  seven  pounds 
of  the  paper  money 
for  one  pound  ster- 
ling."— Dr.  Ramsay. 
"  History  of  South 
Carolina"  Vol.  I, 
/.  163. 

'  At  the  evacuation 
of  Charleston,  1782,  Major  Traille,  of  the  Royal  Artillery,  took 
down  the  bells  of  St.  Michael's  Church  under  the  pretence  that 
they  were  a  military  perquisite  belonging  to  the  commanding 
officer  of  artillery.  The  Vestry  sought  in  vain  to  have  them  re- 
turned. They  finally  appealed  to  Sir  Guy  Carleton  at  New  York, 
April  28,  1783.  He  issued  an  immediate  order  for  their  return  to- 
gether with  all  other  public  or  private  property  of  the  inhabitants 
that  mav  have  been  brought  away.  The  bells,  however,  had  been 
shipped' from  Charleston  to  London,  where  they  were  sold.  The 
Vestry  applied  to  the  Minister  of  War  of  Great  Britain,  but  in  vain. 
The  bells  were  finally  purchased  by  a  private  individual,  who  re- 
turned them  to  Charleston  as  a  gift,  November,  1783. 


78 


ST.   MICHAECS  AND    ST.   PHILIFS,    CHARLESTON,    S.    C. 


79 


of  money  a  stone  was  then  laid  by  each  of  the  gentlemen  who 
attended  His  Excellency,  followed  by  a  loud  acclamation  of  a 
numerous  concourse  of  people  that  had  assembled  to  see  the 
ceremony;  after  which  the  company  proceeded  to  Mr.  Gor- 
don's, where  a  handsome  entertainment  was  provided  by  the 
Commissioners." 

The  bill  for  this  "handsome  entertainment"  is  still  pre- 
served in  the  archives  of  the  church  and  reads  as  follows  :  — 

Feb.   17,  1761.     The  Commissioners  of  the  Church   Bill. 

To  Dinner ^20 

To  Toddy 5,  10,  o 

To  Punch 5,    0,0 

To  Beer 5,  i  o,  o 

To  Wine 5,    5,0 

To  Glass  broak 5,0 

To  8  magnum  bonums  of  claret 24,    0,0 

TesTTor 

To  this  in  a  different  hand  is  added  "The  Commissioners 
agree  that  the  clerk  pay  this  account."    There  is,  however,  no 

mention  of  this    

in  the  Gazette's 
account  of  the 
ceremony,  which 
continues  as  fol- 
lows :  — 

"  Dinner  over. 
His  Majesty's 
health  was  drunk, 
followed  by  a  dis- 
charge of  the  can- 
non at  Granville's 
Bastion;  then  the 
health  of  the 
royal  family  and 
other  loyal  toasts, 
and  the  day  was 
concluded  with 
peculiar  pleasure 
and  satisfaction. 
The  church  will 
be  built  on  the 
plan  of  one  of  Mr. 
Gibson's  designs, 
and  it  is  thought 
will  exhibit  a  fine 
piece  of  architec- 
ture when  com- 
pleted,the  steeple 
being  designed 
much  higher  than 
that  of  St.  Philip's 
[the  second  St. 
Philip's]  will 
have  a  fine  set  of 
bells." 

Although  in 
this  extract  no 
mention  is  made 
of  the  location 
of  the  corner- 
stone, it  is  stated 
in  an  old  memo- 
randum-book be- 
longing to  the 
church  that  "on  this  day  the  Governor  laid  the  first  stone  on 
the  southeast  corner  of  the  church."  Following  this  informa- 
tion a  search  was  made  for  the  corner-stone  at  the  time  when 
extensive  repairs,  made  necessary  by  the  earthquake,  were 
under  way,  but  without  success.  An  interesting  discovery 
was  made,  however,  to  the  effect  that  the  steeple  was  built 
on  a  foundation  entirely  separate  from  that  on  which  the 
body  of  the  church  rested. 


Sidewalli  passing  under  St.   Michael's  I'urch. 


St.  Michael's  has  been  very  generally  considered  the  work 
of  an  architect  by  the  name  of  Gibson,  said  to  be  a  pupil  of 
Sir  Christopher  Wren's,  but  a  clever  writer  on  the  subject  in 
the  "Charleston  Year  Book"  of  1886  seeks  to  prove  other- 
wise. He  says  :  "  The  name  of  the  architect  is  given  as 
Gibson,  a  name  of  which  we  can  find  no  mention  elsewhere  ; 
but  James  Gibbs  was  the  designer  of  St.  Martin's-in-the- 
Fields,  London  ;  and  a  legend  tells  us  that  our  church  is  a 
copy  of  that  building.  A  glance  at  the  pictures  of  the  two 
shows  this  to  be  an  error,  and  one  is  puzzled  to  account  for 
the  story.  If,  however,  they  were  planned  by  the  same  per- 
son, we  can  see  how  the  error  arose.  Add  to  this  the  simi- 
larity of  Gibbs  and  Gibson,  and  the  fact  that  the  spires  of 
both  churches  spring  through  the  roof;  and  the  further  fact 
that  Gibbs  lived  until  1754,  and  we  think  there  is  little 
doubt  that  St.  Michael's  was  the  work  of  Gibbs.  This,  how- 
ever, is  as  each  man  pleases." 

Exactly    who 

built  St.  Michael's 
may  never  be 
known.  The  old 
church  stands  un- 
changed by  time, 
with  the  golden 
ball  of  its  spire  * 
to  be  seen  from 
the  fishing-boats 
far  out  at  sea ; 
with  its  quiet 
graves  about  it, 
enclosed  by  a 
higli  brick  wall,  to 
which  the  people 
pass  through  two 
great  iron  gates 
said  to  be  the 
work  of  A.  lusti, 
who  at  one  time 
lived  in  Charles- 
ton, and  together 
with  Deidrick 
Werner,  a  Ger- 
man, is  responsi- 
ble for  much  that 
is  most  artistic  in 
the  wrought  iron- 
work of  the  city. 
Service  is  held  in 
St.  Michael's  reg- 
ularly;  and  in  the 
quaint  old  pews, 
to  w  h  i  c  h  the 
floors  have  been 
raised  to  render 
thein  less  box-like 
than  formerly,  sit 
the  descendants 
of  those  who  com- 


posed its  original  congregation.  Generations,  young  and 
old,  have  passed  beneath  its  portals,  and  its  sweet  chimes 
have  carried,  and  still  carry,  balm  and  comfort  to  thousands 
of  hearts. 


1  Tills  gilt  ball  at  the  top  of  the  steeple  is  of  black  cyi^ress  cov- 
ered witlicopper,  and  was  not  hurt  when  it  fell  to  the  ground  dur- 
ing a  cyclone  in  1SS5,  altliouiih  it  made  a  si)hcrical  depression  in 
the  flagstones  of  the  pavement. 


8o 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Mr.  Dalcho  gives  the  following  description  of  St.  Michael's 
in  his  "  Church  History'"  published  in  1819  :  — 

"  It  is  of  brick  and  is  rough-cast.  The  extreme  length 
of  the  building  is  130  feet,  and  it  is  60  feet  wide.  The  nave 
is  74  feet  wide,  the  chancel,  10,  the  ves- 
tibule inside,  22,  and  the  portico,  16.  It 
contains  ninety-three  pews  on  the  ground 
floor,  the  middle  aisle  across  the  church 
having  lately  been  built  up  with  eight  new 
pews,  and  forty-five  in  the  gallery.  The  chan- 
cel is  handsome,  and  is  ornamented  in 
the  most  appropriate  manner.  It  is  a  pan- 
elled wainscot,  with  four  Corinthian  pi- 
lasters supporting  the  proper  cornice.  The 
usual  tables  of  the  Decalogue,  Apostles' 
Creed  and  Lord's  Prayer  are  placed  be- 
tween them.  The  galleries  are  supported 
by  twelve  Ionic  pillars.  The  reading-desk 
and  pulpit  stand  at  the  east  end  of  the 
church.  Near  the  middle  door  stands  a 
handsome  marble  font  of  an  oval  form. 
The  ceiling  is  flat,  ornamented  with  a  rich 
cornice,  which  runs  nearly  parallel  with 
the  front  of  the  galleries.  A  large,  hand- 
some brass  chandelier  suspends  from  the 
middle  of  the  centre.  The  outside  of 
the  church  is  adorned  with  Doric  pilasters 
continued  round  the  building,  and  a  para- 
pet-wall extends  around  the  north  and 
south  side  of  the  house.  Between  the 
pilasters  is  a  double  row  of  arched  win- 
dows on  the  west  and  east  side,  the 
upper  less  in  height  than  the  lower.  The 
steeple  is  168  feet  high,  and  is  acknowl- 
edged the  handsomest  in  America,  and 
probably  is  not  ex'ceeded  by  any  in  Lon- 
don for  the  lightness  of  its  architecture 
and  the  chasteness  of  its  ornamentation. 
It  is  composed  of  a  tower  and  spire. 
The  tower  is  square  from  the  ground 
and  rises  to  a  considerable  height.  The 
principal  decoration  of  the  lower  part  is 
a  beautiful  portico,  with  four  Doric  col- 
umns supporting  an  angular  pediment,  with  modillion  cor- 
nice. Over  this  rise  two  rustic  courses;  in  the  lower  are 
small  round  sashed  windows  on  the  north  and  south  sides. 


font 

•  StMichaete 

Church 


and  in  the  second  course  are  small  square  windows  on 
each  side.  From  this  course  the  steeple  rises  octagonal, 
having  windows  with  Venetian  blinds  on  each  face,  with 
Ionic  pilasters  supporting  arches  whose  cornice  upholds 
a  balustrade.  Within  this  course  is  the  belfry,  in  which 
is  a  ring  of  eight  bells.  The  next  course 
is  likewise  octagonal,  but  somewhat  smaller 
than  the  lower,  rising  from  within  the 
balustrade.  It  has  lofty  sashed  windows 
alternately  on  each  face,  with  pilasters  and 
a  cornice.  Here  is  the  clock  with  dial- 
plate  on  the  cardinal  side.  Upon  this 
course  rises,  on  a  smaller  octagonal  base, 
a  range  of  Corinthian  pillars  with  a  balus- 
trade connecting  them  ;  the  centres  of  the 
arches  being  ornamented  with  sculptured 
heads  in  relief.  From  hence  is  a  beau- 
tiful and  extensive  prospect  over  town 
and  harbor,  and  neighboring  country  and 
ocean.  The  body  of  the  steeple  is  car- 
ried up  octagonal  within  the  pillars,  on 
whose  entablature  a  fluted  spire  rises. 
This  is  terminated  by  a  globe  3  feet  6  1-2 
inches  in  diameter,  supporting  a  vane  7 
feet  6  inches  long.  The  height  of  the 
steeple  makes  it  the  principal  landmark 
for  pilots. 

"  The  building  is  said  to  have  cost 
^32,77S-87-  This  sum  is  apparently  small, 
but  we  must  take  into  consideration  that 
everything  since  that  time  has  advanced 
double  or  treble  in  price.  Bricks  were 
then  bought  for  $3  per  thousand,  now 
[1819]  they  are  $15.  Lime  was  then  six 
cents,  now  it  is  twenty  cents  per  bushel, 
and  everything  else  in  proportion." 

The  bells '  and  clock  were  not  imported 
until  1764.  The  bells  cost  in  England 
;^584  14  shillings,  and  the  clock,  which 
runs  30  hours,  cost  ^194.  The  organ 
was  imported  in  1768,  and  cost  ^528. 
It  was   built  by  Mr.  Schnetzler,  and  was 

greatly  admired  in  London  for  its  elegance  of  construction 

and  brilliancy  of  tone. 


•«-«- 


St.  Philip's  Church  has  been  called  the  Westminster 
Abbey  of  South  Carolina  because  of  the  distinguished  dead 

1"  During  the  late  Civil  War  the  citizens  of  Cliarleston  were  de- 
sirous of  protecting  the  bells  from  danj^er,  and,  as  the  steeple  of 
St.  Michael's  was  made  the  target  for  the  cannon  of  tlie  besiegers, 
the  bells  were  taken  down  and  sent  to  Columbia  for  safe  keeping. 
When  Sheridan's  Army  took  Columbia  the  shed  in  the  yard  of  the 
State-House,  in  which  the  bells  had  been  placed,  and  which  also 
contained  the  marljle  friezes  and  other  sculptures  intended  for  the 
decoration  of  the  Capitol,  were  broken  in  and  the  sculptures  and 
bells  were  smashed  into  fragments,  and  tlie  sheds  were  then  set  on 
fire.  At  the  conclusion  of  the  war  tlie  pieces  of  the  bells  were 
carefully  gathered  together,  boxed,  and  shipped  to  the  commercial 
house  of  Frazier,  Trenholm  &  Co.,  of  Liverpool,  together  with  ex- 
tracts from  the  records  of  St.  Michael's,  showing  where  the  bells 
were  cast,  and  the  proportions  of  the  metals  forming  their  compo- 
nent parts.  Upon  inquiry,  it  was  found  tliat  there  was  still  in  ex- 
istence in  England  the  firm  of  bell-founders,  unchanged  in  name, 
and  consisting  of  the  descendants  of  the  proprietors  at  the  time 
the  bells  were  made.  'Hie  records  of  this  firm  contained  descrip- 
tions of  the  bells,  and  tlie  proiiortions  there  given  were  found  to 
correspond  with  those  furnished  from  Charleston.  The  bells  were 
made  anew,  therefore,  of  the  same  metal,  and  for  the  fifth  time 
they  were  carried  across  the  Atlantic,  and  arrived  safely  at  Charles- 
ton. Their  return  was  made  the  occasion  of  great  rejoicing  in  the 
city."  — •  \Vasliiii_i;ton  Post. 


who  lie  about  it."    The  first  edifice  called  by  the  name  of 
St.  Philip's  was  built  on  the  site  where  St.  Michael's  now 

2  Perliaps  no  other  churchyard  in  America  contains  the  remains 
of  so  many  men  who  have  been  illustrious  in  the  historj-  of  the 
Church  and  the  State,  among  whom  may  be  mentioned  Robert 
Daniel,  a  Landgrave  (the  only  American  title  ever  conferred  by 
Great  Britain)  and  a  Governor  of  South  Carolina,  who  was  buried 
near  the  rising  walls  in  1718.  Near  him  is  John  Logan,  Speaker 
of  the  Commons;  not  far  away  is  William  Rhett,  hero  in  the  de- 
fence against  the  invasion  of  the  French  and  Spanish  in  i  706,  and 
of  the  expedition  later  against  the  pirates.  Thomas  Hepworth, 
Chief-Justice,  was  liuried  therein  1728.  "Good"  Governor  Robert 
Johnson  —  Governor  both  under  the  Proprietary  and  Royal  Gov- 
ernments—  was  interred  near  the  chancel  in  the  churchyard. 
Four  Chief-Justices  are  laid  here,  of  whom  two  were  Peter  Leigh 
and  Charles  Pinckney.  Among  the  heroes  of  the  Revolution  who 
lie  around  the  church  are  Christopher  Gadsden  and  his  right-hand 
man  William  Johnson.  Rawlans  Loundes,  who  was  Governor  in 
1778,  requested  that  the  epitaph  upon  his  tombstone  should  be 
"  The  opponent  of  the  adoption  of  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States."  Edward  Rutledge,  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, Col.  Isa.ac  Motte,  second  in  command  at  the  Battle  of 
Fort  Moultrie,  also  lie  in  .St.  Philip's  churchyard.  Thomas  Pinck- 
ney, Major  in  the  Continental  Army,  Major-General  in  the  War  of 
181 2,  Minister  to  ICngland  and  Spain,  and  Governor  of  the  State, 
is   also  sleeping   there.      So   is   Rebecca   Motte,  the   celebrated 


ST.   MICHAEUS  AND  ST.   PHILIP'S,    CHARLESTON,   S.    C. 


8r 


stands  in  1681-2.'  It  was  the  first  Church  of  England  in 
South  Carohna,  and  contemporary  with  "  Old  Ship  "  Church, 
Hingham,  Mass.,  and  a  few  years  later  than  Christ 
Church,  Williamsburg,  Va.,  which  was  built  in  1678. 

Unfortunately  little  is  known  concerning  this  early  struct- 
ure, beyond  the  fact  that  it  was  of  black  cypress,  on  a  brick 
foundation,  and  that  it  was  described  in  a  letter  of  the 
period  as  "large  and  stately,  surrounded  by  a  neat  white 
palisade  fence."  By  1723  the  congregation  had  quite  out- 
grown this  simple  church  —  "large  and  spacious"  though  it 
may  have  been — and  was  removed  to  the  present  site  of  St. 
Philip's  on  Church  street,  where  a  superb  brick  edifice  was 
erected  under  an  ordinance  passed  as  early  as  1710. 

This  second  St.  Philip's,  which  was  opened  for  divine  ser- 
vice on  Easter  Sunday,  1723,  is  the  one  of  which  Charlestoni- 
ans  of  to-day  still  talk  with  affection  and  pride,  and  the  history 
of  which  is  closely  identified  with  the  pre-Revolutionary  devel- 
opment of  the  State.  The  second  St.  Philip's  was  burned  in 
1835,  the  shingled  roof  of  the  tower  having  caught  fire  from 
the  sparks  of  a  neighboring  conflagration.  This  particular 
bit  of  roofing  was  the  vulnerable  spot  of  the  church,  and 
caught  fire  once  before  in  a  similar  manner  from  sparks  from 
the  Huguenot  church  on  the  next  corner,  and  would  have 
been  destroyed  then  but  for  the  resolute  behavior  of  a  negro 
slave  who,  seeing  the  danger,  climbed  up  the  spire  and  out 
on  the  roof,  from  which  he  ripped  the  burning  shingles :  for 
this  heroic  deed  he  received  his  freedom.'' 

The  Charleston  Courier  oi  Feb.  16,  1835,  has  the  follow- 
ing account  of  the  burning  of  St.  Philip's  :  — 

"The  most  striking  feature  of  this  calamity  is  the  destruc- 
tion of  St.  Philip's  Church,  commonly  known  as  the  "  Old 
Church."  The  venerable  structure,  which  has  for  more  than 
a  century  (having  been  built  in  1723)  towered  among  us  in 
all  the  solemnity  and  noble  proportions  of  antique  architec- 
ture, constituting  a  hallowed  link  between  the  past  and  the 
present,  with  its  monumental  memorials  of  the  beloved  and 
honored  dead,  and  its  splendid  new  organ  (which  cost  $4,500) 
is  now  a  smoking  ruin.  Although  widely  separated  from  the 
burning  houses  by  the  burial  ground,  the  upper  part  of  the 
steeple,  the  only  portion  of  it  externally  composed  of  wood, 
took  fire  from  the  sparks  which  fell  upon  it  in  great  quanti- 
ties. It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that  preventive  measures 
had  not  been  taken  in  season  to  save  the  noble  and  conse- 
crated edifice.  The  flames,  slowly  descending,  wreathed  the 
steeple,  constituting  a  magnificent  spectacle,  and  forming  lit- 
erally a  pillar  of  fire,  finally  enwrapping  the  whole  body  of 
the  church  in  its  enlarged  volume.  The  burning  of  the  body 
of  the  church  was  the  closing  scene  of  the  catastrophy.  In 
1796  it  was  preserved  by  a  negro  man  who  ascended  it,  and 
was  rewarded  with  his  freedom  for  his  perilous  exertions  ; 
and  again  in  1810  it  narrowly  escaped  the  destructive  fires  of 
that  year  which  commenced  in  the  house  adjoining  the 
churchyard  to  the  north. 

"  We  have  been  informed  that  the  only  monument  of  the 
interior  of  the  church  which  was  not  destroyed  is  one  that, 
with  accidental  appropriateness,  bears  the  figure  of  Grief." 

Revolutionary  heroine,  and  many  other  notables  of  the  same  period. 
John  C.  Calhoun,  the  groat  nullificr,  sleeps  within  the  shadow  of 
the  old  church,  and  near  him  are  the  remains  of  three  other  leaders 
in  the  great  struggle  of  which  he  was  the  leader. 

Kdward  McCrady,  speaking  on  this  subject,  says:  "Of  the 
dignitaries  of  the  Church  in  the  line  of  the  Kpiscopate  there  lie 
around  her  [St.  Philip's]  hallowed  walls,  two  Commissaries  of  the 
Bishop  of  London,  three  Bisliops  of  the  American  Church,  and 
seven  ministers  who  have  served  at  her  altar.  Of  chief  magis- 
trates, two  Colonial  and  three  State  Governors  are  buried  within 
her  sacred  precincts.  Six  Colonial  Chief  Justices  worshipiied  in  her 
sanctuary.  Two  Presidents  of  the  Continental  Congress  and  two 
signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  were  reared  in  the 
Church,  one  of  the  signers  resting  near  her  walls.  Ambassadors 
and  Ministers  have  gone  from  her  to  foreign  lands,  and  members 
of  Congress  have  been  again  and  again  clioseu  from  her  mem- 


Old  St.  Philip's,  as  the  second  church  of  the  name  is 
sometimes  called  to  this  day,  was  a  more  imposing  structure 
than  the  one  which  bears  the  name  to-day,  and  would  have 
been,  had  it  been  spared,  a  notable  example  of  the  Colonial 
churches  of  America.  Dr.  Dalcho,  in  his  oft-quoted  "  Church 
History  of  South  Carolina,"  gives  the  following  verbose  de- 
scription of  it :  — 

"  St.  Philip's  Church  stands  on  the  east  side  of  Church 
Street,  a  few  poles  north  of  Queen  Street.  It  is  built  of 
brick  and  rough-cast.  The  nave  is  74  feet  long;  the  vesti- 
bule, or,  more  properly,  the  belfry,  37  ;  the  portico  12  feet 
and  22  1-2  feet  wide.  The  church  is  62  feel  wide.  Tlie  roof 
is  arched,  except  over  the  galleries;  two  rows  of  Tuscan 
pillars  support  five  arches  on  each  side,  and  the  galleries. 
Tlie  pillars  are  ornamented  on  the  inside  with  fluted  Corin- 
thian pilasters,  whose  capitals  are  as  high  as  the  cherubim, 
in  relief,  over  the  centre  of  each  arch,  supporting  their 
proper  cornice.  Over  the  centre  arch  on  the  south  side  are 
some  figures  in  heraldic  forin,  representing  the  infant  colony 
imploring  protection  of  the  King.  The  church  was  nearly 
finished  when  the  King  purchased  the  colony  from  the 
Lords  Proprietors.  This  circumstance  probably  suggested 
the  idea.  Beneath  the  figures  is  this  inscription  :  Fropius 
res  aspice  nostras.  This  has  been  adopted  as  the  motto  of 
the  seal  of  St.  Philip's  Church.  Over  the  middle  arch  on  the 
north  side  is  this  inscription  :  Deus  mihi  sol,  with  armo- 
rial bearings,  or  the  representation  of  some  stately  edifice. 

"  Each  pillar  is  now  ornainented  with  a  piece  of  monu- 
mental sculpture,  soine  of  them  with  bas-relief  figures  finely 
executed  by  some  of  the  first  artists  in  England.  These  add 
greatly  to  the  solemnity  and  beauty  of  the  edifice.  There  is 
no  chancel ;  the  communion-table  stands  within  the  body  of 
the  church.  The  east  end  is  a  panelled  wainscot  ornamented 
with  Corinthian  pilasters,  supporting  the  cornice  of  a  fan- 
light. Between  the  pilasters  are  the  usual  tables  of  the 
Decalogue,  the  Lord's  Prayer  and  the  Apostles'  Creed.  The 
organ  was  imported  from  England,  and  had  been  used  at 
the  coronation  of  George  II.  The  galleries  were  added  sub- 
sequently to  the  building  of  the  church.  There  are  88 
pews  on  the  ground  floor  and  60  in  the  galleries.  Several 
of  the  pews  were  built  by  individuals  at  different  times  with 
the  consent  of  the  vestry.  .  .  .  The  front  of  the  church  is 
adorned  with  a  portico  composed  of  four  Tuscan  columns 
supporting  a  double  pediment.  The  two  side-doors  which 
open  into  the  belfry  are  ornamented  with  round  columns  of 
the  same  order,  which  support  angular  pediments  that  project 
12  feet ;  these  give  to  the  whole  building  the  form  of  a  cross, 
and  add  greatly  to  its  beauty.  This,  however,  is  greatly  ob- 
scured by  the  intervention  of  the  wall  of  the  graveyard. 
Pilasters  of  the  same  order  with  the  columns  are  continued 
around  the  body  of  the  church,  and  a  parapet  extends  around 
the  roof.  Between  each  of  the  pillars  is  one  lofty  slashed 
window.  Over  the  double  pediment  was  originally  a  gallery 
with  banisters  which  has  since  been  removed  as  a  security 
against  fire.  From  this  the  steeple  rises  octagonal ;  in  the 
first  course  are  circular  slashed  windows  on  the  cardinal 
side;  and  windows  with  Venetian  blinds  in  each  face  of  the 
second  course,  ornamented  with  Ionic  pilasters,  whose  entab- 
lature supports  a  gallery.  Within  this  course  are  two  bells. 
An  octagonal  tower  rises  from  within  the  gallery,  having 
slashed  windows  on  every  oiher  face  and  dial-plates  of  the 

bers.  Soldiers  of  all  the  wars  in  which  .Soutli  Carolina,  Prov- 
ince and  .State,  has  engaged  lie  within  her  gates.  And  there  are 
also  to  be  found  tlie  graves  of  men  of  science.  It  is  believed  that 
she  has  never  been  without  a  representation  in  the  Senate  or 
House  of  Representatives  of  the  State  Legislature.  All  the  young 
men  of  the  church  went  into  the  service  of  the  Confederate  States 
during  the  late  war.  And  in  the  vestibule  there  is  a  memorial  to 
those  who  gave  their  lives  to  their  country." 

'  This  date  is  given  by  Dr.  Dalcho  in  his  "  CJuircli  History^ 
Edward  McCradv,  tlie  eminent  historian,  tliinks  the  date  incor- 
rectly given,  though  his  researches  cause  him  to  believe  that  it 
was  erected  prior  to  1 690. 

'  This  deed  is  celebrated  in  a  poem  called  "  The  Slave  who 
saved  St.  Arichael's,"  the  author  having  credited  the  heroic  deed 
to  the  wrong  church. 


83 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


clock  on  the  cardinal  side.  Above  is  a  dome  upon  which 
stands  a  quadrangular  lantern.  A  vane  in  the  form  of  a 
clock  terminates  the  whole.  Its  height  is  probably  80  feet. 
"  St.  Philip's  Church  has  always  been  greatly  admired. 
Its  heavv  structure,  lofty  arches  and  massive  pillars,  adorned 
with  elegant  sepulchral  monuments,  cast  over  the  mind  a 
feeling  of  solemnitv  highly  favorable  to  religious  impressions. 


same  foundation.  For  awhile  the  congregation  would  enter- 
tain no  thought  but  to  reproduce,  as  far  as  possible,  the  edi- 
fice they  had  lost,  but  within  a  year  other  counsel  prevailed. 
Both  churches,  however,  contained  interior  features  peculiar 
to  the  Georgian  period  of  church  architecture,  viz,  galleries 
for  congregation  and  choir,  and    a  high  pulpit  adapted  to 


r 


St.  Pl\ili|i's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C.     [1835-9.] 


The  celebrated  Edmund  Burke,  speaking  of  the  church,  said  : 
'It  is  spacious,  and  executed  in  very  handsome  taste,  ex- 
ceeding everything  of  that  kind  which  we  have  in  America,' 
and  the  biographer  of  Whitefield  calls  it  a  grand  church, 
resembling  one  of  the  new  churches  of  England  in  London." 

No  sooner  was  the  second  St.  Philip's  burned  than  a  third 
was  planned,  the  architect  being  Mr.  J.  Hyde,  and  its  corner- 
stone was  laid  Nov.  12,  1835.     It  was  built  of  brick,  on  the 


them.  Rev.  John  Johnson,  D.  D.,  who  for  the  past  thirty 
years  has  been  rector  of  St.  Philip's,  gives  the  following  de- 
scription of  the  church  as  it  stands  to-day  amid  its  countless 
graves. 

"  In  regard  to  its  external  appearance  the  new  St.  Philip's 
differs  not  greatly  from  the  old  building.  The  same  order 
of  architecture  was  retained  within,  but  with  modifications 
that  were  improvements.     Thus  the  massive  square  piers  that 


THE  DE  SAUSSURE  HOMESTEAD,  NEAR   CAMDEN,  S.  C. 


83 


supported  the  old  church,  that  gave  it  some  grandeur, 
and,  faced  with  fluted  pilasters  bearing  fine  scriptural  memo- 
rial tablets,  some  grace  also,  were  not  repeated  because  they 
darkened  the  interior,  and  interfered  seriously  with  vision 
and  hearing.  The  Doric  order  of  the  later  (Roman)  period 
gave  rule,  measure  and  proportion  to  the  exterior  of  the  new 
church,  so  that  the  columns,  pilasters,  and  entablatures  with- 
out the  building  represent  very  correctly,  in  all  but  the  orna- 
ments of  capital  and  frieze,  the  order  they  illustrate.  The 
interior  of  the  sacred  edifice  is  finished  in  the  Corinthian 
order  of  architecture,  and  is  the  only  specimen  in  the  city 
of  that  order,  with  all  the  rich  ornaments  of  the  later,  or 
Roman,  period.  These  are  executed,  for  the  most  part,  in 
stucco,  but  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are  of  carved  wood. 
The  roof  and  galleries  are  supported  by  eight  fluted  columns, 
four  on  each  side,  rising  from  pedestals  of  the  same  level  as 
tlie  rails  of  the  pews  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet  above  the 
floors.  There  these  columns,  finished  with  their  appropriate 
capitals,  meet  the  line  of  the  entablature,  not  extended  in 
f.he  usual  way  from  column  to  column,  but  circumscribed 
above  each  column,  so  as  to  produce,  with  the  overhanging 
cornice,  the  effect  of  a  higher  and  larger  capital,  which,  of 
course,  it  is  not.  This  departure  from  the  conventional  de- 
sign is  something  almost  in  the  way  of  a/cw  d'esprit.  But  it 
has  its  reason  in  the  precedent  of  one  of  the  finest  churches 
in  London  by  James  Gibbs,  architect,  in  1721,  and  the  ex- 
press wish  of  the  Charleston  congregation  to  secure  thereby 
the  light  and  airy  affect  of  the  English  prototype. 

"  At  a  meeting  of  the  congregation  of  St.  Philip's,  June  27, 
1836,  it  was  resolved,  'that  the  heavy  pillars  of  the  interior 
of  the  church  be  dispensed  with,  and  that  in  lieu  thereof 
Corinthian  columns,  as  far  as  possible  after  the  style  of  St. 
Martin's-in-the-Fields,  London,  be  adopted.'  And  again 
resolved, 'that  the  pillars  of  the  plan  presented  be  lowered, 
so  as  to  reduce  the  arches.'  These  arches  were  the  motives 
of  the  whole  scheme.  Springing  longitudinally  from  the 
square  of  cornice  above  each  column  at  an  altitude  of  about 
twenty-five  feet  and  rising  at  their  crown  to  a  level  of  thirty- 
six  feet  above  the  floor,  these  fine  arches  on  each  side  sup- 
port the  roof,  and  contribute  no  little  to  the  beauty  of  the 
interior,  lifting  the  eye  above  the  columns  and  galleries  to 
the  topmost  ceiling  of  the  church,  forty-two  or  forty-three  feet 
above  the  floor.  The  crown  of  each  arch  is  ornamented 
with  a  cherub's  head  and  wings  in  stucco,  while  in  the  spaces 
of  the  spandrels  between  the  shoulders  of  the  arches  the 
same  material  is  used  for  the  display  of  the  acanthus  orna- 


mentation. The  unbroken  entablature  is  seen  in  the  chancel 
where  it  passes  from  one  pilaster  to  another,  but  is  again 
broken  by  the  head  of  the  high  stained-glass  window.  Above 
the  cornice  of  the  chancel  the  coved  ceiling  is  ribbed  and 
adorned  with  rosettes  in  stucco.  On  either  side  of  the  chan- 
cel the  walls  are  enriched  by  tablets  inscribed  as  usual." 

Dr.  Johnson  gives  the  dimensions  of  the  building  in  feet  as 
follows  :  — 

Extreme  length  of  building,  including  porch 120 

Extreme  width  of  building,  exclusive  of  south  and  north  porches..  .  62 

Projection  of  porches ,2 

Height  of  walls  on  side j- 

Height  of  ridge  of  roof ^' 

Height  of  steeple 200 

INTERIOR    DIMENSIONS. 

Extreme  length  of  church i  j^ 

Depth  of  chancel g 

Width  of  chancel 24 

Extreme  width  of  church c6 

Height  of  galleries  (upper  rail) 1.^ 

Extreme  height  of  ceiling 42 

Width  of  vestibule 20 

The  cost  of  the  new  St.  Philip's,  as  reported  to  the  congre- 
gagation  on  the  15th  of  July,  1839,  was  $84,206.01.  Later, 
however,  a  steeple  and  spire,  surmounted  by  a  plain  gold 
cross,  were  added,  after  a  design  by  Edward  B.  White,  which 
must  have  raised  the  total  cost  to  nearly  §100,000.  When 
the  steeple  was  completed,  early  in  the  fifties,  a  clock  with  a 
chime  of  bells  was  presented  to  it  by  Mr.  Colin  Campbell,  of 
Beaufort.  These  were  taken  down  at  the  beginning  of  the 
war  and  presented  to  the  Confederate  Government  to  be 
cast  into  cannon. 

During  the  war  the  steeples  of  St.  Michael's  and  St.  Phil- 
ip's, being  the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  the  city,  served 
as  targets  for  the  Federal  guns.  Of  the  two  thus  subjected 
to  fire  St.  Philip's  suffered  most,  as  ten  or  more  shells  en- 
tered her  walls.  The  chancel  was  destroyed,  the  organ 
demolished,  and  the  roof  pierced  in  several  places.  The 
congregation  continued  to  worship  in  the  church,  however, 
until  Thanksgiving  Day,  1863,  and  returned  to  it  again  as 
soon  as  the  war  was  over.  C.  R.  S.  Horton. 


The  De  Saussure  Homestead,  near  Camden,  S.  C. 


ANOTHER  South  Carolina  mansion  that  deserves 
record  is  "  Lausanne,"  the  De  Saussure  homestead, 
just  outside  of  Camden.  Although  this  place  was 
sold  some  years  ago,  and  alterations  made  in  it 
with  the  view  of  entertaining  Northern  tourists,  its  original 
character  was  too  strong  to  be  obliterated.  And  its  antiquity 
and  first  existence  as  a  private  home  designed  to  fill  the 
wants  of  a  hospitable,  large-minded  owner  is  stamped  from 
garret  to  cellar.  Camden  is  one  of  the  oldest  communities 
in  the  country,  and  Lausanne  was  built  for  the  De  Saussure 
whom  Washington  appointed  Director  of  the  Mint,  and  under 
whose  jurisdiction  the  first  gold  coins  used  in  the  United 
States  were  minted.  He  afterward  became  Chancellor. 
Lausanne  was  for  a  long  period  the  show-place  of  Camden 
and  the  chosen  home  where  the  distinguished  people  who 
visited  the  town  on  the  Wateree  were  sure  to  find  entertain- 


ment. The  place  was  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  grounds, 
many  imported  shrubs  and  trees  being  planted  there,  the 
site  being  one  of  exceptional  advantage  for  the  growth  of 
roses  and  native  flowers. 

Lafayette  was  entertained  at  this  homestead  when  he 
visited  Camden  in  1825  in  order  to  take  part  in  the  unveiling 
of  the  monument  to  De  Kalb,  the  illustrious  German  in  the 
service  of  France  who  so  generously  aided  the  Americans' 
cause,  and  was  the  hero  of  the  Camden  fight. 

When  the  proprietor  of  Lausanne,  in  1795,  resigned  from 
the  directorship  of  the  Mint,  and  returned  to  Carolina  to 
practise  law,  he  persuaded  Washington,  his  personal  friend, 
to  sit  to  Rembrandt  Peale  for  a  portrait  to  be  hung  on  the 
walls  at  the  Camden  house.  This  portrait,  an  extraordina- 
rily good  likeness,  for  Washington  sat  patiently  to  please  his 
friend,    was    painted,    and    adorned    the    morning-room    at 


84 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Lausanne  many  years.  Tlie  likeness  was  so  perfect,  it  is  said, 
that  Lafayette,  wlien  he  first  beiield  it,  saluted  and  exclaimed 
in  French,  "My  friend,  God  guard  you." 

Lausanne  received  much  attention  at  the  hands  of  free- 
booters and  raiders  of  both  armies  towards  the  close  of  the 
Civil  War:  this  because  of  the  reputed  wealth  of  the  own- 
ers, and  the  belief  that  much  plate  and  treasure  was  buried 
on  the  premises.  A  number  of  good  pictures  hung  upon  the 
walls,  many  of  them  authenticated  portraits  of  the  members 
of  the  De  Saussure  family,  painted  by  noted  artists.  The 
careless  soldiers,  when  Lausanne  was  being  sacked,  amused 
themselves  by  sticking  their  bayonets  through  these  portraits 
and  other  pictures.  A  soldier  who  was  idly  lunging  at  every- 
thing on  his  side  of   the    house,  and    had  let  the    daylight 


through  two  or  three  framed  pictures,  suddenly  felt  his  arm 
arrested  by  a  comrade,  and  was  warned  to  notice  whom  he 
was  about  to  slash  next.  Even  this  vandal  had  compunc- 
tions about  damaging  the  "  Father  of  his  Country,"  and  the 
portrait  was  left  unhurt. 

Eleven  years  after  the  war  the  descendants  of  the  Chan- 
cellor who  had  made  Lausanne  their  home  for  over  eighty 
years  were  in  sore  straits.  The  cherished  acres  and  associa- 
tions alike  had  to  be  given  up.  The  Washington  portrait 
was  shipped  to  a  collector  in  Philadelphia  and  sold,  and  the 
beautiful  home-place  was  bought  by  a  lady  with  an  eye  to 
the  good  business  it  would  bring  as  an  inn,  because  of  the 
very  historical  and  antique  flavor  that  hangs  about  it  and  its 
belonjrinETs.  Olive  F.  Gitnbv. 


On  thB'f^'ofnf   "'^\-^ 


The  Matter  of  Imported  Material. 


ACORRESrONDENT  takes  exception  to  a  state- 
ment made  by  Mr.  Bibb,  in  an  earlier  paper,  to  the 
effect,  first,  that  '•  Westover "  manor-house '  was 
built  of  English  imported  brick  and,  second,  that 
the  warm  "glow"  of  the  brickwork  was  due  to  the  natural 
coloration  of  the  English  baked  clay.  This  glow,  our  cor- 
respondent tells  us,  is  really  due  to  the  red  paint  that  was  at 
some  remote  time  applied  to  tiie  brickwork,  and  as  to  the 
source  of  the  brickwork  itself  that,  while  it  is  probable  that 
the  moulded  brick  used  in  belt-course  and  water-table  may 
have  been  imported,  there  is  evidence  of  various  kinds  that 
the  bricks  were  made  by  native  labor  on  the  spot. 

Nothing  is  more  common  tiian  to  find  attached  to  many  a 
building  in  the  South  the  legend  that  it  was  built  of  brick 
imported  from  England,  and  just  as  the  presence  of  much 
smoke  is  an  indication  of  fire,  so  we  incline  to  the  belief  that, 
in  most  cases,  the  tradition  is  worthy  of  credence.  Proba- 
bly, in  the  absence  of  authentic  written  records,  nothing  but 
a  chemical  analysis  of  the  bricks  themselves  and  the  neigh- 
boring clay-beds  can  ever  determine  the  truth.  Unquestion- 
ably, it  was  possible  to  make  bricks,  but  brick-burning  is  not 
so  easy  and  natural  a  process  that  satisfactory  bricks  could  al- 
ways have  been  made  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  each 

^  .See  cut,  page  41,  Vol.  1 1. 


of  these  isolated  buildings.  Granted  that  there  were  native 
brickyards,  it  is  reasonable  to  assume  that  they  turned  out 
too  small  a  product  to  meet  the  demands  of  a  rapidly-increas- 
ing population,  and  if  bricks  could  not  have  been  made  in  suf- 
ficient quantity,  it  is  inevitable  that  they  must  have  been 
imported,  and  imported  by  those  who  were  either  too  im- 
patient to  wait  for  the  native  makers  to  supply  them  or  so 
well  off  in  worldly  gear  that  they  could  afford  to  pay  for  the 
satisfaction  of  a  whim  or  to  secure  a  really  better  material 
than  the  home-made  article,  hence,  it  is  natural  that  the  tra- 
dition should  attach  mainly  to  the  buildings  of  the  well-to-do 
planter.  Furtiier,  as  the  tradition  does  not  even  then  attach 
to  every  such  building,  it  tends  to  prove  that  the  statement  is 
true  in  many,  perhaps  in  all,  cases. 

Brickyards  were  in  active  operation  at  Medford,  Mass., 
only  towards  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century,  and  we  fancy 
that,  even  in  the  early  days,  the  inhabitants  of  the  Northern 
Provinces  were,  as  now,  more  active  in  commercial  affairs 
than  were  those  in  the  hotter  regions  of  the  South  ;  and 
though  it  is  on  record  that  St.  John's  Church,  Hampton,  Va. 
(now  undergoing  alterations),  was  built,  in  1728,  of  brick 
made  in  the  neighborhood,  it  does  not  follow  that  the 
brickyard  that  supplied  them  was  of  large  size  or  in  regular 
operation.     Moreover,  if  the  brick  buildings  at  the  South, 


THE   MATTER    OF  IMPORTED  MATERIAL. 


8$ 


St.  Stephen's,  Santee. 


erected  toward  the  middle  and  close  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury, were  built  of  native  brick,  what  likelihood  is  there  that 
St.  Luke's,^  at  Smithfield,  Va.,  built  in  1632,  or  the  Jenkins 
house  ^  on  Dahaw  Creek,  Edisto  Island,  S.  C,  which  dates 
from  1683,  could  have  been  built  of  anything  but  imported 
material  ? 

So  far  as  internal  evidence  goes,  we  have  come  upon  noth- 
ing which  so  lends  credi- 
bility to  the  alleged 
date  of  the  fabric  of  St. 
Luke's  as  this  building 
on  Edisto  Island,  in  its 
architectural  perfection 
the  very  highwater  mark 
of  a  vanished  cultivated 
and  polite  civilization. 

Those  of  us  of  Eng- 
lish blood  insensibly 
date  the  history  of  this 
country  either  from 
Captain  Smith  and  his 
settlement  at  James- 
town, in  1607,  or  from 
the  landing  of  the  Pil- 
grims, in  1620,  at  Plymouth,  taking  it,  seemingly,  for  granted 
that  between  1492  and  those  familiar  dates  nothing  hap- 
pened. But  here  on  Edisto  Island  seems  to  be  the  evidence 
that  a  good  deal  did  happen,  and  that  the  dreams  and  aspira- 
tions of  Admiral  Coligny,  who,  in  1561,  obtained  permission 
from  Charles  IX  to  plant  a  colony  on  our  southeastern  sea- 
board as  a  retreat  for  Protestant  refugees,  did  amount  to  a 
good  deal,  ultimately.  Between  the  early  expeditions  of  the 
French,  with  their  sanguinary  struggles  against  the  Spaniards, 
and  the  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  a  century  elapsed, 
and,  during  that  time,  there  was  a  tendency  on  the  part  of 
the  oppressed  Huguenots  to  seek  a  more  peaceful  home  in 
New  France,  so  that  when  a  part  of  the  main  body  of  Hu- 
guenots driven  out  by  Madam  de  Maintenon  reached  South 
Carolina  they  found  friends  and  connections  already  estab- 
lished there.  A  little  earlier,  the  English  had  driven  the 
Dutch  out  of  New  York,  and  a  certain  number  of  these  had 
been  given  a  free  passage  to  South  Carolina  by  the  Lords 
Proprietors,  where,  not  long  afterwards,  they  were  joined  by 
a  larger  party  from  Belgium  direct.  The  presence  of  the 
Dutch  in  the  neighborhood  at  the  time  the  Jenkins  house 
on  Edisto  Island  was  built  is  a  possible  explanation  for  the 
statement  made  to  us  that  the  house  was  built  by  Dutchmen  ; 
but  if  architectural  character  means  anything,  it  is  really  the 
work  of  French  hands  trained  in  the  brick-and-stone  con- 
struction of  the  times.  One  can  fancy  some  wealthy  Hugue- 
not noble  trying  to  make  himself  feel  as  much  at  home  as 
possible  by  building  for  himself  amid  a  strange  and  semi- 
tropical  vegetation  a  reminiscent  fragment  of  the  Louis-XIII 
chdteau  he  had  been  forced  to  abandon  to  a  Catholic  suc- 
cessor. That  so  ambitious  a  structure  should  have  been 
undertaken  if  the  bricks  were  to  be  made  upon  the  spot  by 
unskilled  and  cheap  labor  seems  unlikely,  while  it  was  en- 
tirely possible  for  a  man  who  had  brought  away  with  him 
money  enough  to  pay  the  builders'  bills,  to  pay,  also,  the 
freight  on  the  brick  and  dressed-stone  prepared  in  the  Mother 
Country. 

The  date  ascribed  to  this  building  does  seem  a  very  early 
one  for  so  good  a  piece  of  work,  but  the  men  who  settled  in 
that  part  of  the  country  were  of  a  different  type  from  the 


'  See  cut,  page  23,  Vol.  II. 


•Plates  I  and  2,  Part  XI. 


yeomanry  who  settled  New  England.  Many  of  them  were 
heads  of  noble  families,  who,  while  naturally  accompanied 
by  the  members  of  their  own  family,  brought,  too,  in  their 
train  not  only  devoted  house-servants,  but  an  humbler  follow- 
ing of  peasant  tenantry,  as  desirous  as  they  of  escaping  the 
persecution  of  the  Catholics,  and  as  ready  in  the  wilderness 
as  they  were  at  home  to  enable  the  members  of  the  family 
to  which  they  and  theirs  had  for  generations  been  devoted 
to  "  live  soft  and  lie  easy."  As  these  men  of  gentle  blood 
had  supposably  been  familiar  with  the  work  of  the  artists 
and  architects  of  the  times  of  the  Louis,  and  as  they  brought 
with  them  gold,  or  left  behind  them  credit,  it  is  not  surprising 
if  their  early  houses  in  this  country  should  be  proved  to  have 
had  a  more  advanced  architectural  character  than  was  to  be 
found  elsewhere.  Perhaps  a  closer  examination  of  the  older 
settlements  on  the  southeastern  seaboard  than  they  have  yet 
received  may  bring  to  light  in  places  now  little  visited  other 
examples  as  interesting  as  this  one  on  Edisto  Island.  That 
there  were,  and  still  may  be,  such  seems  to  be  indicated  by 
the  reference,  in  the  account  of  the  estates  on  the  Ashley 
and  Cooper  rivers,  to  "Yeamans  Hall,"  built  by  Sir  Thomas 
Yeamans  about  1680;  that  is,  at  just  the  time  when  the 
Edisto  Island  house  is  credited  with  being  built;  and  the  de- 
scription of  "  Yeamans  Hall  "  seems  to  show  it  to  have  been 
as  well  built  and  to  have  had  fully  as  much  architectural 
character  as  the  extant  Edisto  example. 

There  is  another  reason  for  giving  adherence  to  the  legends 
concerning  the  importation  of  brick,  whether  as  paid  freight 
or  unpaid  ballast.  Many  of  the  older  brick  buildings,  par- 
ticularly the  smaller  ones,  are  covered  with  rough-cast,  and  it 
is  a  proper  inference  that  if  they  had  fair  brick  walls,  well  laid, 
they  would  have  been  left  uncoated,  while  it  is  equally  fair  to 
suppose  that  a  builder  forced  to  use  the  crooked,  ill-made 
and  poorly-burned  native  brick  would  have  sought  to  give 
his  job  as  fair  an  aspect  as  possible  by  giving  it  a  good  coat- 
ing of  rough-cast,  and  we  question  whether  legend  ever  de- 
clares that  a  rough-cast  building  was  built  with  bricks 
"imported  from  England.' 

It  is  seemingly  unquestionable  that,  relatively,  brick  was 

more  freely  used 
as  a  building-nia- 
terial  in  the 
South  than  in 
the  North,  and 
the  fact  is  ac- 
counted for,  not 
more  by  the 
presence  of  good 
brick-clay  on 
every  hand  than 
by  the  absence 
of  the  kindly- 
natured  and 
easily- w  o  rked 
white-pine  of  the 
colder  climate. 
One  class  of 
building  m  the 
South,  the  ec- 
clesiastical, 
seems,  judging  from  remaining  examples,  to  have  been  gen- 
erally built  of  brick,  occasionally  of  stone,  and  seldom  of 
wood;  while  for  Northern  churches  the  formula  would  read 
"  generally  of  wood,  sometimes  of  brick,  but  rarely  of  stone." 
As    soon    as    we    come    into    the    neighborhood    of    the 


i-n-lf'- 


t'^^^l'^W^^' 


St.  John's,  Hampton,  Va.    [172S.] 


86 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


clay-lands  of  Maryland  and  Virginia,  we  find  congregations 
still  sheltering  in  little  brick  structures  of  considerable  an- 
tiquity which,  while  generally  having  an  air  of  quaintness  and, 
occasionally,  a  considerable  architectural  value,  have  more  the 
aspect  of  schoolhouses  than 
that  of  ecclesiastical  build- 
ings. We  do  not  mean  such 
buildings  as  Christ  Church, 
Alexandria,  Va.,  and  St. 
Peter's,*  in  Philadelphia,  al- 
though the  former  before  the 
addition  of  its  present  tower 
was  quite  typical  of  its  class  — 
a  somewhat  plain  four-square 
building  of  one  size  or  another, 
with  hipped  roof,  while  the  cor- 
nice and  the  finish  of  doors  and 
windows  were  given  the  con- 
siderate attention  that  is  char- 
acteristic of  the  work  of  the 
skilled  Colonial  builder.  Po- 
hick  Church,  near  Alexandria, 
Va.,  is  of  a  rather  later  type, 
less  churchly,  more  scholastic. 

Pohick  Church  is  interesting  because  the  records  show 
that  this  building  at  least,  which  dates  1769-73,  was  built  of 
brick  burned  on  or  near  the  spot ;  but  it  is  also  further  not- 
able for  the  fact  that   the  little  building  was    designed  by 


Pohick  Church,  near  Alexandria,  Va.     [i7'j9-73.] 


Alexandria,  a  building  in  whose  design  and  building  he  also 
had  a  hand ;  a  statement  very  easy  to  believe  since  Christ 
Church  when  first  built,  and  before  the  addition  of  the  tower, 
had  a  distinct  resemblance  to  the  smaller  building  at  Old 

Pohick. 

The  best  example,  perhaps, 
of  a  brick  church  of  the  period 
is  Old  Wamboro  Church,'  St. 
James's,  on  the  Santee,  for  it 
is  a  consistent  piece  of  brick 
masonry  from  end  to  end; 
walls,  floors,  steps,  bases, 
shafts,  capitals,  all  are  of 
brick,  laid  with  such  care  and 
skill  as  evidently  to  have  re- 
quired little  attention  and 
repair,  since  the  original 
builder  struck  the  last  joint. 
It  was  the  chance  coming  into 
our  hands  of  a  blue-print 
from  the  negative  of  a  wan- 
dering kodak  expert  that  de- 
cided us  to  have  this  little 
building  properly  put  on  rec- 
ord, and  though  the  very  feature  which  we  thought  so  unique 
as  to  be  worth  a  considerable  expense  to  secure  proof  of  its 
existence  proved  to  be  non-existent  —  an  optical  illusion  of 
photographies  —  the    result   actually  achieved    is    eminently 


St.  James's,  Goose  Creek,  S.  C.     [i/ii.] 


George  Washington  himself,  who,  as  the  owner  of  the  near-  worth  while.  Under  the  magnifying-glass  the  little  kodak 
by  Mount  Vernon  estate,  also  worshipped  in  the  building,  print  seemed  to  show  that  the  builder  had  attempted  to  ex- 
Later  General  Washington   worshipped    in    Christ   Church,      press  in  brickwork  his  recollection  of  a  Corinthian  capital, 


1  Plate  3,  Part  V. 


*.See  cut,  page  65  and  Plates  11  and  12,  Part  XI. 


THE  MATTER    OF  IMPORTED  MATERIAL. 


S7 


the  tips  of  a  single  row  of  acanthus  leaves  seeming  to  be  re- 
placed by  slightly  projecting  headers  radially  laid.  The  pho- 
tograph seemed  to  show  a  very  successful,  if  somewhat  archaic, 
attempt.  Unfortunately,  it  was  a  mere  photographic  illusion, 
the  caps  actually  turning  out  to  be  Tuscan  caps  laid  up  in 
moulded  brick.  But  had  it  not  been  for  this  misunderstand- 
ing on  our  part,  this  interesting  church  might  have  had  to 
wait  longer  for  its  proper  record. 

Seemingly,  there  is  an  indefinite  number  of  these  little 
brick  churches  scattered  through  the  older  townships  of  the 
Southern  States,  most  of  them  standing  isolated  so  as  to  be 
as  convenient  to  the  owner  of  one  plantation  as  to  his  neigh- 
bor away  on  the  other  side.  Some  are  perfectly  simple  in 
plan,  like  Cainhoy  Church,'  near  Charleston  ;  others,  like  St. 
Andrew's,'  on  the  Ashley,  and  Strawberry  Church,'  on  the 
Cooper,  have  a  more  pronouncedly  ecclesiastical  air,  thanks 
to  their  transepts:  some  are  of  plain  brickwork,  while  others 
are  coated  with  rough-cast ;  some  have  the  hipped  roof, 
others  the  gable-ended  roof,  either  plain  or  pedimented.  But 
all,  seemingly,  have 
the  round-headed 
window  and  the, 
more  or  less,  refined 
wooden  finish 
proper  to  the  period. 
The  peculiar  snub- 
bing of  the  gable- 
roof  is  common  to 
Strawberry  Church,' 
Goose  Creek 
Church  ^  and  Pom- 
pion  Hill  Chapel  as 
it  is  to  many  others. 

Each  of  these  lit- 
tle buildings  has  its 
history,  real  or  leg- 
endary, social,  ec- 
clesiastical or  archi- 
tectural, and  in  this 
latter  connection 
one  is  pretty  certain 
of  being  told  that 
the  standing-finish 

and  brick  of  which  they  were  built  were  brought  over  from 
England  or  Holland,  as  the  case  may  be.  More  than  one  on 
Sunday  echoed  to  the  voice  of  some  clergyman  of  doubtful 
sanctity  whose  voice  for  a  while  on  Saturday  evening  was  too 
thick  to  allow  of  intelligible  utterance.  At  these  fonts  has 
been  baptized  many  a  babe  who  as  man  or  woman  has  left  a 
name  which  one  encounters  in  history  or  the  transmitted  leg- 
ends of  the  neighborhood  and  recognizes  again  upon  tomb  or 
gravestone  in  the  deserted  and  weed-grown  churchyard  hard 
by  :  tombs  and  stones  so  much  more  decent  and  suitable  to 
mark  the  spot  where  man  leaves  earth  behind  than  those 
which  mar  our  pretentious  cemeteries  to-day — the  humble 
churchyard  burying-ground  being  almost  as  much  a  thing  of 
the  past  as  its  bescutcheoned  and  cherub-decorated  stones. 

Most  of  these  little  church  fabrics  seem  a  natural  growth 
and  at  most  to  be  but  mildly  reminiscent,  but  in  Georgetown, 
S.  C,  and  at  St.  Stephen's,'  Santee,  we  come  upon  types  of  a 
wholly  different  character.  To  build  a  simple  gable-ended 
church,  as  old  St.  Peter's,*  on  the  Isle  of  Wight,  Va.,  and 
later  give  it  a  fuller  architectural  expression  by  building 
against  one  gable  end  a  square  bell-tower  with  open-arched 

1  Plate  15,  Part  XI.       'Plate  6,  Part  III.       i*  Plate  15,  I'art  .\I. 


'?Oinj»i«>n  Ijill  Chape]. 
"«'•  Qarlejfoj.. 
[176^] 


parte  cochere  below  it,  is  to  accomplish  a  perfectly  natural 
growth,  and  this  accomplishment  of  an  architectural  effect 
seems  to  have  been  intuitive  rather  than  studied.  But  when 
one  turns  to  Prince  George's  Church,^  at  Georgetown,  one 
perceives  that  an  architect  has  been  at  work  and  has  chosen 
not  so  much  to  modify  the  prevailing  type  as  to  design  his 
building  with  entire  disregard  to  it,  or,  perhaps,  rather  in 
entire  ignorance  of  it.  Prince  George's,  Winyaw,  seems  to 
us  like  a  church  designed  in  England  and  by  an  Englishman 
who  had  not  visited  this  country,  but  had  prepared  for  ex- 
port a  design  based  on  some  English  church  of  an  earlier 
period  that  he  had  recently  encountered  during  some  holi- 
day tour  at  home.  The  Elizabethan  treatment  of  the  gable- 
ends  is  unusual,  the  only  other  instance  of  a  similar  treatment 
that  we  have  come  upon  being  that  to  be  found  in  the  St. 
Stephen's  Church,  Santee,  which  gives  evidence  of  having 
been  thoroughly  worked  out  on  paper  by  some  one  who  knew 
more  about  architecture  and  the  historic  styles  than  did  most 
of  the  men  who  built  the  little  churches  and  chapels  of  the 

time  in  this  country. 
Pompion  (or 
Pumpkin)  Hill 
Chapel,  as  it  is 
known  to-day,  on 
the  Cooper  River, 
just  outside  of 
Charleston,  is  really 
the  Church  of  St. 
Denis,  and  the 
present  building 
dates  from  1763,  re- 
placing an  earlier 
wooden  structure 
that  was  built  in 
1703.  The  interest 
that  attaches  to  this 
little  building  —  it 
measures  only  35' x 
48' — is  rather  his- 
torical than  archi- 
tectural, and  as  St. 
Denis  is  a  French 
saint,  the  name  at 
once  gives  the  student  a  clue  to  its  early  history. 

"Orange  Quarter"  was  settled  by  French  Huguenots  in 
16S5  or  thereabouts,  and  the  first  Church  of  St.  Denis  was 
built  in  1703,  of  wood,  and  of  the  size  needed  for  the  very 
small  French  congregation.  Naturally,  exhortation  here  was 
carried  on  in  French,  and  when,  a  year  or  two  later  the 
Province  of  South  Carolina  was  divided  into  ten  parishes  — 
the  parochial  division  being  later  adopted  in  other  of  the 
Southern  States  —  it  was  found  that  the  Orange  Quarter 
was  included  in  the  Parish  of  St.  Thomas.  If,  as  was  only 
natural,  the  inhabitants  of  each  parish  were  taxed  in  some 
way  to  support  the  church  and  clergyman  therein  established, 
it  doubtless  looked  to  the  French  Huguenots  as  if  by  their 
long  voyage  across  the  ocean  they  had  not  gained  that  liberty 
of  purse  and  act  they  were  seeking,  if  they  were  in  the  new 
country  to  be  made  the  victims  of  the  same  sort  of  double 
taxation  that  they  had  had  to  endure  in  France.  If  at  home 
they  had  to  support  their  own  pastor  and  also  pay  tithes  and 
so  on  to  maintain  the  Catholic  clergy,  whose  acts  and  tenets 
they  abominated,  how  were  they  any  better  off  in  America? 
if,  besides  supporting  their  own  pastor,  they  also  had  to  join 


Vm'"'  "' 


*  .See  cut,  page  25,  Part  VI. 


^  Plates  40,  41,  Part  X. 


88 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


in  paying  the  salary  of  the  Church  of  England  clergyman 
who  officiated  at  St.  Thomas's  ?  Accordingly,  they  petitioned 
the  Assembly,  representing  that  they  were  good  and  law- 
abiding  citizens,  so  few  and  so  poor  that  they  could  not  even 
properly  maintain  their  own  church,  and  praying  for  relief 
and  assistance.  The  Assembly  was  both  amiably  and  chari- 
tably inclined  and  answered  the  prayer  by  incorporating  the 
Huguenot  immigrants  into  a  new  parish  within  the  Parish  of 
St.  Thomas,  and  seated  it  at  St.  Denis ;  but  provided  that,  as 


of  the  building  is  due  to  the  fact  that  many  streamlets  of  the 
great  German  immigration  filtered  down  into  North  Carolina 
from  Pennsylvania,  and  up  from  Orangeburg  and  other  towns 
in  South  Carolina,  we  do  not  know,  but  there  was  time  enough 
between  the  date  of  these  migratory  movements  and  the  date 
when  the  church  was  built,  1736-60,  for  the  general  senti- 
ment of  the  community  to  be  quite  leavened  with  the  same 
Teutonic,  or  "  Dutch,"  feeling  that  is  so  stamped  on  matters 
and  ideas  in   Pennsylvania.      Be   this  as  it  may,  the  fact 


soon  as  the  present  members  of  the   community  and  their     that  more  than  a  score  of  years  were  needed  to  finish  this 


descendants  should  have  become  proficient  in  the  English 
language,  the  separate  existence  of  the  Parish  of  St.  Denis 
should  terminate 
and  the  Church  of 
St.  Denis  should  be- 
come the  chapel  of 
ease  to  the  Parish 
Church  of  St. 
Thomas.  Ainsi  dit, 
ainsi  fait. 

Huguenots,  cava- 
liers, Lords  Proprie- 
tors,  Landgraves, 
Caciques  —  words 
constantly  recurring 
in  the  early  history 
of  the  Carolinas  — 
remind  the  student 
that  there  is  an  his- 
toric past  to  these 
regions  of  a  differ- 
ent quality  from  that 
belonging  to  any 
other  section  of  the 
country,  for  the 
heavy  hand  of  Span- 
ish intolerance  in  a 
measure  separates 
from  the  history  and 
social  habit  of  the 
Carolinas  the  early 
life  and  accomplish- 
ment of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Florida  and  Louisiana 
been  so  obviously  similar. 

The  genius  of  Romance  may  be  supposed  to  have  turned 
back  in  his  flight  on  reaching  Mason  and  Dixon's  line,  his 
inclination  to  farther  flight  checked  by  the  chill  of  a  near 
approach  to  the  rigid  formalism  of  the  Puritans  :  once,  how- 
ever, he  may  have  reached  as  far  North  as  New  York  and 
did  not  feel  absolutely  strange  amid  the  Dutch  quaintness 
then  to  be  found  at  the  southern  end  of  the  Hudson.  As  he 
flitted  back  again  to  the  more  congenial  climate  and  society — 
for  romance  is  the  attribute  of  an  aristocratic  rather  than  of 
a  proletarian  milieu  —  he  must  have  noted  when  he  drew 
near  Edenton,  N.  C,  on  Albemarle  Sound,  that  the  spire  of 
St.  Paul's  Church  had  a  suggestive  likeness  to  work  he  had 
recently  seen  in  New  Amsterdam.     How  much  the  character 


.St.  P.iul's  Churcli,  Edenton,  N.  C. 

which  otherwise  mijrht  have 


little  structure  lends  verisimilitude  to  the  prevailing  legend 
that  this  building  too  was  built  of  imported  materials. 

Although  the 
"first  white  child," 
Virginia  Dare,  was 
born  in  1587  on 
Roanoke  Island,  at 
the  mouth  of  the 
Sound,  the  first  per- 
manent  settlement 
in  North  Carolina 
was  made  near  Ed- 
enton in  1653  by  a 
small  band  of  one 
hundred  settlers, 
and  in  the  next  fifty 
years  a  town  of  some 
importance  had 
grown  up  there, 
known  at  different 
times  by  different 
names  and  only 
known  as  Edenton 
on  the  death  of 
Governor  Eden,  in 
1722,  a  gentleman 
who  was  falsely 
accused  of  having 
improper  dealings 
with  Edward  Teach, 
the  pirate  known  as 
"  Blackbeard." 
North  Carolinians 
were  convinced  secessionists,  and  when  General  Beauregard 
made  it  known  that  he  must  have  more  cannon  the  bells  of 
St.  Paul's  Church  at  Edenton  were  taken  down  from  their 
loft  and  converted  into  cannon,  which  were  served  by  the 
Edenton  Bell  Battery,  one  of  the  guns  being  specifically 
christened  "  St.  Paul." 

Just  outside  of  Edenton  is  "Hayes,"  built  in  1801,  the 
home  of  the  Johnston  and  Iredell  families,  a  mansion  of  size, 
and  said  to  be  of  some  architectural  significance.  Unfortu- 
nately the  photograph  we  have  secured  shows  the  building  — 
a  wooden,  clapboarded,  wing-pavilion  house  surmounted  by  a 
cupola  —  so  enshrouded  with  trees  and  shrubs  that  it  is  not 
possible  to  make  sure  that  it  has  a  roof  or  even  doors  or 
windows.  Its  existence  is  merely  recorded  here  for  the  sake 
of  later  investigators. 


Savannah  and  Parts  of  the  Far  South. 


cjrb 


THE  student  of  Georgian  architecture  familiar  with 
the  Colonial  work  of  New  England,  New  York,  the 
Genesee  Valley  and  Virginia  does  not  easily  find 
interesting  examples  of  the  period  farther  south 
than  Charleston  and  Beaufort,  S.  C.  This  may  seem  strange 
at  first  cry,  but  in  reality  it  is  what  might  be  expected  of  a 
section  of  country  developed  for  the  most  part  late  in  the 
eighteenth   century.     Charleston,    as   is  well  known,  was  a 


^l|pU> 


Bluff.  To  the  south  of  Savannah  there  was  practically  noth- 
ing in  the  way  of  civilization  until  about  the  beginning  of 
the  nineteenth  century,  except  the  Spanish  settlement  at  St. 
Augustine,  whence  voyagers  made  their  way  along  the  coast, 
little  by  little,  settling  first  in  one  spot  and  then  another, 
which  accounts  for  the  strain  of  Spanish  feeling  which  shows 
itself,  as  is  obvious  to  any  who  take  time  to  study  the  situa- 
tion,   through   the  region  between    Savannah   and    Florida. 


'llie  Gilmer  House,  Bull  and  Sute  Streets,  Savannaii,  Ga. 


fashionable  community  as  early  as   1773  with  high  ideas  of  Tliis  reveals  itself  in  the  presence  of   low  pavilion   houses 

art  and  architecture,  with   aristocratic  tastes  and  manners,  surrounded   by  one   or  two  story  verandas,    between  which 

Beaufort  and  the  neighboring  sea  islands  were  settled  during  and  the  characteristic   houses  of  the  Spanish  West  Indies 

the   first  part  of  the  seventeenth   century,  and  one   of   the  and  the  quaint  double-decked  verandas  of  Charleston  there 

earliest  examples  of  good  work  in  America  is  afforded  by  is  a  strong  analogy.     New  Orleans,  to  be  sure,  was  settled 

the  Jenkins    House  on  Edisto   Island,  which  was   built  in  about    1723  —  a   few   years    earlier    than    Savannah  —  and 

1683.     Savannah,  on  the  other  hand,  was  a  wilderness  until  should  afford  good  examples,  but  (unfortunately  for  those 

1733,  when  Oglethorpe  landed  with  his  party  at  Yamacraw  who  are  interested  in  English  work  and  the  many  phases  of 

'  I'hotographed  by   Mrs.   'I'liaddcus   llorton. 
8y 


90 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


its  far-reaching  influence)  the  early  Louisianians  were  French 
and  Spanish,  and  the  architecture  of  the  region  proclaims  the 
Latin  rather  than  the  Saxon. 

Considering  these  facts  it  becomes  apparent  that  the  far 
South  —  Georgia,  Alabama  and  Mississippi  —  was  subject  ar- 
chitecturally to  the  influences  exerted  by  two  different  nation- 
alities. The  Georgian  ideas 
of  the  English  travelled  south 
in  company,  naturally  enough, 
with  the  early  English  set- 
tlers, who,  as  a  class,  being 
richer  than  the  French  Hugue- 
nots of  the  same  period,  built 
finer  houses  than  the  latter, 
thus  exerting  a  more  powerful 
influence  architecturally. 
This  influence  may  be  said  to 
have  particularly  affected  the 
coast  regions,  whence  it  swept 
across  the  country,  meeting 
finally  a  counter-current  from 
the  West  —  the  influence  of 
the  French  and  Spanish 
styles  from  New  Orleans.  Of 
these  the  English  was  destined 
to  finally  prove  itself  the  most 
pronounced  throughout  the 
South ;  for,  having  acquired 
the  habit  of  looking  to  the 
mother  country  for  prototypes, 
the  Southerner,  always  less 
violent  in  his  antipathies  to 
the  English  than  his  Northern 
brother,  continued  to  do  so 
after    the    Revolution,   which 

accounts  for  tlie  presence  of  the  colonnaded  house  of  the 
far  South.  This,  strictly  speaking,  is  an  off-shoot  from 
the  Classic  revival  which  raged  in  England  toward  the  last 
of  the  eighteenth  century  and  first  appeared  on  the  east 
coast  of  America  about  1800,  whence,  becoming  immediately 
popular  and  being  well 
adapted  to  the  climate, 
it  spread  through  the  en- 
tire South  from  the  At- 
lantic to  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi  and  be- 
yond them,  enjoying  a 
great  popularity  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  French 
district.  In  fact,  the 
white-columned  house, 
despite  its  foreign  origin, 
may  be  said  to  be  more 
truly  vernacular  than 
anything  in  the  South, 
for,  in  time,  the  ideas 
back  of  it  became  so  ab- 
sorbed by  the  Southern 
builder  as  to  be  almost 
a  natural  product  result- 
ing logically  from  the  demands  of  climate  and  the  tastes  of 
the  people. 

Savannah,  Ga.,  though  a  seaport  town  of  the  Colonial 
period,  is  strangely  disappointing  architecturally,  and  con- 
tains few  specimens  of    any  value,  which  is  rather    odd  in 


view  of  the  fact  that,  although  the  city  was  not  settled  until 
1733,  it  had  advanced  far  enough  in  the  ethics  of  civilization 
by  1738  to  hold  balls  and  dinners  in  honor  of  distinguished 
English  visitors  and  of  those  who  were  continually  coming 
over  from  Charleston  to  have  a  hand  in  the  management  of 
things  and  to  acquire  for  themselves  and  their  heirs  landed 

interests  of  one  kind  or  another 


Tlie  Old  Exchange,  Savannah,  Ga.     [i7'/>.] 


An  Old  Brick  Tomb,  Savannah,  Ga. 


in  the  new  colony. 

In  fact,  though  entirely 
different  in  exterior  aspect.  Sa- 
vannah is  redolent  with  sug- 
gestions of  the  Carolinas, 
especially  of  Charleston. 
There  is  Bull  Street,  named 
for  Col.  William  Bull,  of  Caro- 
lina, who  laid  out  the  city  of 
Savannah.  There  is  Drayton 
Street,  named  for  Thomas 
Drayton,  of  the  Ashley  River, 
and  St.  Julian  Street,  called 
for  James  St.  Julian,  a  friend 
of  the  Georgia  Colonists;  and, 
although  the  Savannah  houses 
for  the  most  part  belong  to  a 
later  period  than  the  interest- 
ing old  dwellings  pictured  in 
earlier  pages  as  representing 
the  architecture  of  Charleston, 
the  observer  is  constantly 
running  upon,  unawares,  old 
Georgian  doorways  set  in  the 
plainest  of  clapboarded 
houses,  fan-lights,  bits  of  old 
ironwork  :  all  of  which  remind 
one  that  ideas  once  cast 
abroad  are  continually  cropping  up  in  fertile  places.  The 
paucity  of  early  work  in  Savannah  may  be  due  to  two  differ- 
ent causes,  first,  that  two  fires  swept  the  city,  the  last  as  late 
as  1802  ;  second,  that  aside  from  General  Oglethorpe  and  his 
party,  which  included  the  ricli  immigrants,  Colonial  Georgia 

was  more  an  asylum  for 
those  wlio  sought  to 
prove  that  poverty  was  no 
disgrace  than  for  those 
favored  oi.es  of  fortune 
interested  in  building 
fine  houses. 

The  oldest  structure  of 
any  consequence  in   Sa- 
vannah to-day  is  the  Ex- 
cliange  Building,  which, 
begun   in  1799,  has  filled 
a  variety  of  functions  for 
o\er    a   century,   having 
been  as  often  used  as  a 
theatre,  a  ballroom,  and 
a   place   of    general    as- 
sembly on  patriotic  occa- 
sions as  for  commercial 
purposes. 
Next  to  the  Exchange  Building  the  oldest  and  perhaps  the 
most  interesting  pieces  of  work  in   Savannah  are  four  resi- 
dences which  were  built  about  the  same  time  by  the  same 
architect  and  may  therefore  be  classed  together. 

These  are  commonly  spoken    of   as   Scarbersugh    house, 


SAVANNAH  AND  PARTS   OF  THE  FAR   SOUTH. 


91 


which  is  situated  in  Yamacraw,  the  oldest  section  of  the  city ; 
Owens  house,  the  Telfair  residence,  now  the  Telfair  Art  Gal- 
lery, and  Bulloch  house  on  Orleans  Square. 

All  of  these  houses  were  built  by  an  English  architect 
by  the  name  of  Jay  who  did  considerable  work  in  and 
around  Savannah  early  in  the  nineteenth  century.  The 
Owens  house  is  known  to  have  been  built  in  1S15,  the  Bul- 
loch house  was  completed 
in  1818  and  the  other  two 
about  the  same  period. 
The  Owens  house,  strange 
to  say,  is  built  of  '•  tabby,"' 
which  must  have  been  a 
material  new  to  the  English 
architect ;  the  others  are 
of  brick  sent  from  England 
presumably,  although 
native  brick  was  procurable 
in  Savannah  as  early  as 
1820.  The  Owens,  the 
Telfair,  and  the  Scarbor- 
ough houses  are  not  dis- 
similar though  they  are 
quite  differently  propor- 
tioned, and  may  be  said 
to  express,  in  a  vague  way 
the    architectural     person- 

ality  of  the  builder.  Of  the  three  the  Scarborough  house 
is  the  most  interesting.  Though  at  present  utilized  as  a 
negro  school  and  situated  in  the  heart  of  a  rough  district, 
robbed  of  all  interior  adornment,  marred  by  the  elements, 
and  deprived  by  chance  of  the  quiet  and  repose  to  which  in 


All  of  the  houses  built  by  Jay  in  Savannah  were  square 
in  plan,  with  kitchen  and  servants'  rooms  in  an  ell  to  the 
rear.  All  of  the  rooms  were  large,  the  feature  of  each  house 
being  invariably  the  staircase,  which  in  each  of  these  four 
instances  was  constructed  differently.  In  the  case  of  the 
Scarborough  house  the  staircase,  which  is  exceedingly  wide 
and  of  a  rather  heavy  design,  rises  abruptly  immediately  in 

front  of  the  entrance,  leav- 

ing  an  open  space  to  the 
rear  of  it;  the  Telfair  stair- 
case rises  in  very  much 
the  same  manner,  but  is 
constructed  differently; 
the  staircase  of  the  Owens 
house  rises  about  the  mid- 
dle centre  of  the  hallway 
to  the  rear  of  a  colonnade 
consisting  of  four  gold- 
capped  Corinthian  col- 
umns, and  ascends  to  a 
landing,  on  either  side  of 
which  second  runs  arise 
completing  the  ascent  to 
the  story  above,  the  stair- 
opening  thus  made  forming 
a  sort  of  arcade  through 
which  those  on  the  upper 
story  can  see  what  is  going  on  below.  The  staircase  -  of 
the  Bulloch  house  is  spiral  in  character. 

Although  the  city  of  Savannah  is  disappointing  in  itself  to 
those  interested  in  searching  out  specimens  of  the  early  work 
of  American  builders,  the  surrounding  country,  if  studied 
understandingly,  offers  many  interesting  suggestions  in  the 
way  of  country  houses  which  point  to  that  mode  of  life 
peculiar  to  the  far  South  prior  to  the  Civil  War.     One  of  the 


Scarboroiigli  House,  Broad  Street,  Savannah.    [1S15.]    Jay,  Architect.^ 


i 


<F^ 


\)  u B  a^ 


I 

I 

MALL         I 

I 


;  dr- 


p o 


•ul 


M 


1 


Plans  of  tilt  Scarboroiii;li  House, 


best  of  these  is  the  "  Hermitage,"  on  a  rice  plantation  on 
the  Savannah  River,  six  miles  or  so  out  from  the  city,  which 
the  natural  order  of  things  old  places  seem  entitled,  it  pos-  though  not  built  until  about  1820,  is  interesting,  inasmuch  as 
sesses  still,  though  given  up  to  vulgar  usage,  a  singular  air  the  materials  used  in  its  construction  were  chiefly  native 
of  repose  and  dignity.  bricks  which  are  known  to  have  been  manufactured  on  the 

>"  Tabby  "  is  evidently  a  corruption  of  the  Sjjanish  "  /tipia"  a  founded  with  the  houses  built  in  Florida  of  coquina,  a  natural  lime- 
mud  wall    and  the  niate'rial  is  a  species  of  concrete  or  artificial  stone  with  marine  shells  and  coral  for  the  conglomerate. —  Ki). 
stone    composed    largely   of   pounded    oyster-sliells.     'Ihe    tihby-  M'late  9,  I'art  XII.         "This  and  the  subjects  011  pp.  92,  93 
built   house   of   .South    Carolina   and   (Icorgia   must   not   he   con-  after  pliotographs  l)y  Mrs.  'I'haddeus  Horton. 


92 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


spot;  and  furthermore  in  that  it  has  preserved  to  this  day 
the  quaint  negro  cabins  and  quarters  that  were  in  use  during 
slavery,  the  place  as  a  whole  having  been  but  lightly  touched 
by  the  hand  of  those  given  to  modern  improvements. 

It  is  curiously  interesting  during  these  days  which,  even  in 
the  South,  are  so  far  removed  in  spirit  from  the  days  of  half 
a  century  ago  to  find  oneself  surrounded  by  the  symbols  of  a 
life  which  to  modern  eyes  is  curiously  unlike  anything  now 
existing.  Passing  up  the 
wide  sandy  road  that  leads 
to  the  "  Hermitage,"  bor- 
dered on  either  side  with 
giant  water-oaks  overgrown 
with  tillandsia  (Spanish 
moss),  one  sees  the  brick 
mansion  itself  at  the  end 
of  a  vista  of  misty,  swaying 
drapery,  flanked  to  the 
front  (or  rear,  whichever 
you  prefer,  the  "  Hermit- 
age "  having  two  fronts, 
one  facing  the  river  and 
the  other  the  land  road) 
with  parallel  rows  of  negro 
huts,  some  of  brick,  others 
of  wood,  and  still  others  of 
tabby,  having,  as  a  rule, 
thatched  roofs.  There,too, 
is  the  slave  hospital,  an  unusual-looking  pavilion-like  structure 
smacking  of  the  West  Indies.  Little  by  little  the  slave- 
quarters  of  the  "  Hermitage  "  have  fallen  into  hopeless  disre- 
pair; but  enough  remains  even  at  this  late  day  to  interest, 
not  only  students  of  American  civilization,  but  even  the  casual 
observer,  who,  as  a  rule,  is  not  susceptible  to  historical  im- 
pressions. The  "  Hermitage"  produces  an  indescribable  sen- 
sation. The  house,  though  more  or  less  Georgian  in  char- 
acter, with  a  tendency  toward  such  thoughtful  work  as  could 
be  produced  in  that  locality  at  that  period,  represents  on  the 


Telfair  Art  Gall. 


The  civilization  of  Charleston  prior  to  the  Revolution 
as  well  as  that  of  Salem,  Mass.,  and  the  other  coast  cities 
of  the  Colonies,  was  practically  English,  just  as  the  life 
that  obtains  to-day  in  the  "  British  Dominions  Beyond  the 
Sea"  reflects  the  ideas  and  ideals  of  the  mother  country; 
but  the  civilization  that  arose  in  the  far  South  after  the  Revo- 
lution was  of  another  genre.  This  is  particularly  true  of  the 
rice-plantation    district,    and    the   cotton,    or  "black,"  belt, 

which  began  in  the  central 
part  of  Western  Georgia 
and  stretched  across  Ala- 
bama, Mississippi,  and  a 
part  of  Louisiana,  in  which, 
prior  to  the  war,  the  great- 
est number  of  negroes 
were  congested,  their  pres- 
ence being  a  necessary  ad- 
junct of  the  successful 
production  of  the  vast 
crops  of  the  region.  Each 
of  the  world's  great  staples 
creates  a  life  peculiar  to 
itself  to  which  those  who 
handle  it  are  subject,  and, 
as  a  natural  result,  exist- 
ence in  the  rice-regions  of 
South  Carolina  and  Geor- 
'  gia  and  in  the  cotton-belt, 
though  colored,  it  is  true,  by  English  and  French  influences, 
so  adapted  itself  to  the  climate  and  to  the  large,  yet  simple, 
demands  of  plantation  duties  as  to  produce  something  similar 
yet  different,  something  altogether  American,  colored  and 
modified  by  the  gentle  genius  of  the  Southern  country.  The 
region  between  Savannah  and  Brunswick,  around  about 
Darien,  and  up  and  down  the  Altamaha  River,  comprised  the 
richest  rice-lands  in  Georgia,  stocked  with  game  —  wild  duck, 
wild  turkey,  snipe,  woodcock,  rice-birds  —  shaded  with  live- 
oak  and  cypress  trees,  and  dotted  here  and  there  with  green 


[About  1815-20.]     Jay,  Arcliitcct. 


Minus  House,  Orleans  Square,  Savannah. 

whole  a  later  epoch  than  the  buildings  we  have  been  consid- 
ering. It  also  represents  a  civilization  later  than  that  of  the 
Colonial  period.  Nevertheless,  the  place,  as  a  whole,  sur- 
rounded, as  it  is,  with  slave-huts,  beyond  which  stretch  the 
low,  level  rice  and  cotton  fields,  through  which  the  broad  Sa- 
vannah River  wanders  at  pleasure,  dawdling  here  and  hurry- 
ing there,  stands  for  a  mode  of  life  more  typical  of  the  south 
of  the  United  States  than  any  of  the  more  formal  abodes  of 
a  more  formal  people. 


Owens  House,  Savannah.     [1815.]     Jay,  Architect. 

marshes.  These  regions  exhibit  a  great  variety  of  plantation- 
houses  possessing  no  architectural  features,  being  for  the 
most  part  mere  carpenter-shacks,  yet  so  obviously  the  result 
of  human  existence  and  its  needs,  of  demand  and  supply,  as 
to  be  valuable  as  types.  It  is  strange  how  a  house  with  no 
architectural  enrichment,  with  no  architectural  grammar,  so 
to  speak,  may  yet  possess  a  certain  charm,  a  certain  original 
value  of  its  own.  The  art  of  building,  always  so  closely  allied 
to  the  many  phases  of  human  life,  is  never  more  obviously  so 


SAVANNAH  AND   PARTS   OF   THE  FAR    SOUTH. 


93 


-Jli'^ 

[..:!»• 

'''^ 

?^'>'^!a 

— , — j^^^-'  -  ^^ 

Bulloch  House,  Orleans  Square,  Savannah.     [iSiS  ]     Jay,  Architect. 

than  in  the  plantation-districts  of  the  far  South,  and  there 
one  sometimes  comes  upon  original  ideas  of  construction, 
crudely  expressed,  but  interesting,  and  often  significant. 

One  of  the  celebrated  plantations  of  the  Altamaha  region 
was  formerly  owned  by  Pierce  Butler,  whose  marriage  with 
Fanny  Kemble  was  one  of  the  notable  events  of  the  early 
thirties,  and  it  was  while  spending  a  winter  at  this  place  that 
the  actress  wrote  her  cele- 
brated "Journal  of  Life  on 
a  Georgia  Plantation," 
which  was  published  some 
years  later  and  widely  read 
both  in  this  country  and 
England.  The  house  on 
the  Butler  estate  is  no 
longer  standing,  having 
been  a  poor  thing,  some- 
what after  the  bungalow 
style,  built  by  the  crudest 
of  slave  labor. 

Perhaps  the  most  pre- 
tentious piece  of  work  on 
the  Altamaha  was  "  Hope- 
ton  House,"  the  place  of 
James  Hamilton  Couper, 
who,  in  common  with 
Pierce  Butler,  had  large 
holdings  in  this  section  as  well  as  on  the  sea  islands  which 
hug  the  coast  of  Georgia  and  produce  as  fine  sea-island 
cotton  as  the  world  affords.  Hopeton  House  is  now  a  ruin, 
but  from  sketches  of  it  preserved  in  the  Couper  family  it  ap- 
pears to  have  been  after  the  style  of  an  English  manor-house. 
The  plans  of  Hopeton  House  were  drawn  by  Mr.  Couper 
himself,  and  the  building  oper- 
ations were  conducted  under 
his  supervision,  for,  in  com- 
mon with  many  Southern  gen- 
tlemen of  that  period,  he  was 
a  student  of  architecture  and  a 
liberal  subscriber  to  English 
periodicals  and  plates.' 
Another  example  of  his  work 
is  afforded  by  Christ  Church, 
Savannah,  built  about  1838, 
which,    though     rather    com- 

'  Voluminous  works  on  architect- 
ure and  folio-plates  are  to  be  found 
in  many  old  Southern  lil)raries. 

•Writes  the  Hon.  Amelia  Mur- 
ray in  her  letters:  "  Mr.  Couper 
tells  me  he  once  tried  the  capa- 
bilities of  the  most  active  among 
his  people  by  giving  them  the 
cultivation  of  fifty  acres  for  them- 
s;lves ;  the  first  season,  under 
direction,  the  plantation  cleared 
$1,500,  which  he  took  care  to 
give  to  them  in  silver,  hoping  that 
would  incite  their  industry;  the 
next  year  he  left  to  their  own 
management;  the  crop  lessened 
one-half;   and  the   third  season, 

left  to  themselves,  they  let  the  land  run  to  waste  so  that  it  was 
useless  to  let  them  retain  it.  Yet  these  same  people  will  labor 
readily  and  contentedly  under  good  superintendence.  And  such 
is  their  feeling  for  their  master  that  in  some  cases  where  freshets 
have  put  his  crops  in  danger  they  have  worked  freely  eighteen 
hours  out  of  the  twenty-four  to  .save  them  —  more  than  they  would 
have  done  for  themselves  in  any  such  case.  The  thanks  of  Mr. 
Couper  and  a  few  little  presents  made  them  quite  happy.  They  are 
devoted  servants  and  miserable  free  people.     When  I  watch  the  con- 


mercial  in  character,  is  perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  the 
Savannah  churches. 

"  Hopeton  "  was  the  scene  of  a  very  fashionable  and  elab- 
orate winter  life  from  the  early  thirties  until  the  late  fifties, 
and  guests  from  all  parts  of  America  and  abroad  were  enter- 
tained there  after  the  hospitable  style  of  the  Southern  plan ter ; 
the  life  that  obtained  there  being,  on  the  whole,  not  dissimilar 

from  the  life  that  is  consid- 
ered peculiar  to  the  country 
gentry  of  England,  with  the 
exception  that  the  crop 
was  cultivated  by  black 
slaves  instead  of  by  white 
tenantry.  Indeed  Mr. 
Couper  made  an  effort  to 
adopt  the  English  tenantry 
plan  in  its  entirety,'^  but  the 
negro  character  proved  too 
shiftless  to  be  entirely  en- 
trusted with  the  manage- 
ment of  land.  One  of  the 
many  notable  guests  enter- 
tained at  "  Hopeton  "  dur- 
ing the  early  fifties  was  the 
Honorable  Amelia  M.  Mur- 
ray, an  English  litterateur 
and  Court  lady,  who,  while 
touring  the  United  States  and  Canada,  wrote  her  impressions 
in  letters  to  England,  which  were  published  in  one  of  the 
London  papers  and  afterwards  brought  out  in  book  form. 
While  at  "  Hopeton  "  she  enjoyed  her  first  intimate  view  of 
Southern  plantation  life,  and  was  so  favorably  impressed 
with  it  and  the  happy  and  healthy  condition  of  Mr.  Couper's 

four  hundred  slaves  that  she 
wrote  in  vindication  of  slavery 
in  the  South,  to  which,  as  is 
well  known,  the  British  masses 
were  greatly  opposed.  Her 
letters  naturally  excited  the 
displeasure  and  condemnation 
of  the  English  people,  who 
had  preconceived  opinions  on 
the  subject  which  they  did  not 
care  to  relinquish.  In  one  of 
them''  she  compared  the  state 

sideration,  kindness  and  patience 
sliown  by  the  white  gentlemen 
and  white  gentlewomen  to  tliese 
darkies,  I  could  say  to  some  anti- 
slavery  people  1  have  known, 
'  (Jo  thou  and  do  likewise.' " 

'"I  forgot  to  mention,"  writes 
Mrs.  Murray,  "  that  there  are 
from  three  to  four  hundred  ne- 
groes on  this  estate.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Couper  have  no  white  ser- 
vants ;  tlieir  family  consists  of  six 
sons  and  tliree  daughters.  I 
should  not  like  to  inhabit  a  lonely 
part  of  Ireland  or  even  Scotland 
surrounded  only  by  three  hundred 
Celts.  I  belitve  there  is  not  a 
soldier  or  policeman  nearer  than  Savannah,  a  distance  of  sixty 
miles.  .Surely  this  speaks  volumes  for  the  contentment  of  the 
slave  population.  Wlien  I  think  of  the  misery  and  barbarism  of 
the  peasantry  in  Kintail  and  other  parts  of  .Scotland  (putting  aside 
tliat  of  Ireland)  and  tlien  look  at  the  people  here  it  is  hardly 
possiljle  not  to  blush  at  the  recollection  of  all  the  hard  words  I 
have  heard  applied  to  the  slaveholders  of  the  .South.  Why,  the 
very  pigsties  of  the  negroes  are  better  than  some  Celtic  hovels  I 
have  seen." 


94 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


of  the  Southern  negro  slave 
to  tliat  of  the  Scotch  ar.d 
Irish  peasant  classes,  and  so 
unfavorably  to  the  latter  that 
the  British  public,  already 
displeased,  became  so  highly 
incensed  that  Mrs.  Murray's 
dismissal  from  Court  be- 
came necessary  as  an  act  of 
policy.  It  is  interesting  to 
know  that  two  such  contrary 
reports  as  those  of  the  Hon- 
orable Mrs.  Murray  and  of 
Frances  Ann  Kemble  could 
have  emanated  respectively 
from  two  Englishwomen 
viewing  the  same  locality  at 
almost  the  same  period. 

The  fact  that  the  planta- 
tion districts  of  the  far 
South,  those  stretching 
through  the  interior  of  Geor- 
gia, Alabama,,  the  western 
part  of  South  Carolina,  and 
the  central  portion  of  Missis- 
sippi and  the  northern  por- 
tion of  Florida  were  settled 
for  the  most  part  about  the 
first  of  the  nineteenth  cen- 
tury removes  the  work  of 
that  region  from  what  is, 
properly  speaking,  the 
Georgian  period;  yet  the 
presence  of  the  white  colon- 
naded houses  throughout 
this  section  shows  plainly 
that  the  architectural  influ- 
ence of  England  continued 
after  the  Revolution.  This 
is  more  particularly  true  of 
the  South,  beginning  with 
Virginia,  than  with  the 
North,  although  one  of  t  h  e 
earliest  and  best  examples 
of  a  colonnaded  portico  in 
America  is  theChilds  house, 
Rochester, N.Y., built  in  1800. 
The  colonnaded  house  of  the 
far  South,  which,  in  its  de- 
gen  er  ate  form,  may  be 
spoken  of  as  the  "  white- 
pillared  "  house,  does  not 
belong  to  the  Georgian 
period,  but  to  the  Classic 
Revival,  which  was,  how- 
ever, so  obviously  an  out- 
growth of  preceding  styles 
as  to  come  in  naturally  for 
some  consideration  ;  further- 
more, the  white-pillared 
house  is,  in  a  sense,  the  final 
figure  in  the  background 
upon  which  our  present  ar- 
chitectural modernity  rests. 
'  Photoj^r.iphed  Ijy  Mrs.  Hoi  ton. 


Portico  of  the  Bulloch  House,  Savannah,  Ga.  ' 


Drawiiifi-room  ;   IJulluch   House,  Savannah,  Ga. 


II. 

But  for  the  Greek  Revival 
which  started  in  England 
toward  the  last  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century,  the  general 
character  of  architectural 
styles  in  the  plantation  dis- 
tricts of  the  far  South  would 
have  been  quite  different, 
though  one  can  but  wonder 
what  the  Southern  planter 
would  have  built  on  his  sa- 
vanna had  not  Greek  and 
Roman  columns  been  domi- 
nant in  the  work  of  the  dav. 
Certainly  nothing  could  have 
more  perfectly  suited  his 
climate,  the  large  yet  simple 
purposes  of  his  life,  or  his 
taste,  which,  as  a  rule,  was 
more  or  less  grandiose. 
One  must  have  a  portico  in 
the  South.  Why  not  have 
it  extend  all  around  the 
house  ?  One  must  have 
posts  to  support  the  roof  of 
the  portico.  Why  not  have 
Greek  columns  instead 
(since  they  were  the  fash- 
ion) "i  'i'he  proposition  was 
beautifully  simple;  so  sim- 
ple, indeed,  that,  once  in- 
troduced, the  style  spread 
with  remarkable  rapidity. 
The  grandeur  of  the  effect 
aTid  the  simplicity  with 
which  it  was  obtained  were 
both  in  its  favor.  The  more 
columns  the  Southern 
planter  used  the  better  he 
liked  it;  and,  since  one  was 
copying  Greek  styles,  why 
not  copy  the  Temple  of 
Theseus  or  the  Parthenon 
and  be  done  with  it.'  The 
Southern  planter  of  the  early 
nineteenth  century  was  a 
man  of  enormous  purposes; 
the  architectural  ideas  sug- 
gested by  the  greatest  monu- 
ments of  antiquity  were  but 
grist  for  his  mill,  and,  as  a 
result,  full  half  the  houses 
in  the  South — the  Coleman 
house,  of  Macon,  Ga.,  the 
Pew  house,  in  Madison, 
"Dunleith,"  in  Natchez  (the 
mansard  roof  of  which  is  a 
late  addition),  Houmas 
house,  on  the  Mississippi, 
"Belle  Grove,"  also  on 
the  Mississippi,  and  many 
others,  were  all  expressions, 
in  one  form  or  another,  of 
the  same  idea. 


SAVANNAH  AND  PARTS   OF  THE  FAR    SOUTH. 


95 


At  the  time  when  the  Greek  Revival  was  at  its  height  in  will,  you  can't  make  them  very  ugly.     The  art-gallery  opens  to 

England,  the  United  States  was  just  beginning  to  recover  one  side  on  another  columned  portico  which  leads  out  across 

from  the  ravages  of  the  Revolution  and  to  turn  its  attention  a  flagged  floor  to  the  level  of  the  lawn.     The  library  is  a 

toward   building.     The   Government   let  a  contract  for  the  separate    building — a   not   uncommon    arrangement  in  the 

White  House,  and  for  additions  to  the  Capitol.     The  White  South  — •  which  allowed  its  use  as  an  office  as  well.     The  in- 


House,  by  the 
way,  though  it 
did  not  take  on 
its  Ionic  por- 
tico until  about 
1820,  when, 
during  the  ad- 
ministration of 
Andrew  Jack- 
son, it  was  re- 
modelled, is 
one  of  the  most 
notable  exam- 
ples of  the 
Classic  Revival 
in  America, 
and  on  the 
whole,  a  typical 
residence  of  an 
English  coun- 
try gentleman 
—  our  Presi- 
dents of  the 
early  ni  ne- 
teenth  century 
were  American 
country  gentle- 
men. 

Andrew  Jack- 
son may  have 
had  some  influ- 
ence in  decid- 
ing on  the  char- 
acter of  the 
im  provements, 
for,  as  is  well 
known,  he  was 
himself  a  great 
admirer  of  the 
Classic  Orders, 
and  "The  Her- 
mitage," his 
seat  near  Nash- 
ville, shows  a 
white  colon- 
nade. 

"Fort  Hill,"' 
theseat  of  John 
C.  Calhoun, 
which  was  built 
early  in  the 
nineteenth  cen- 
tury after  de- 
signs drawn  by 


'I'he  Portico  of  the  McAlpin  House,  Orleans  Square,  Savannah,  Ga.' 
[About  1S20.  ] 


terior  of  "  Fort 
Hill  "  shows  a 
succession  o  f 
rather  low 
rooms  opening 
into  one  an- 
other, reached 
through  unex- 
pected pas- 
sages, which  in- 
dicates that  the 
house  was 
added-to  from 
time  to  time 
rather  than  that 
it  was  built  orig- 
inally as  it  now 
stands.  At 
the  time  of  the 
death  of  its  last 
individual 
owner,  Clen- 
son,  Calhoun's 
s  o  n  -i  n-  law, 
"Fort  Hill" 
was  very  much 
as  it  had  been 
during  the 
statesman's 
lifetime.  It 
was  filled  with 
curious  furni- 
ture, pictures, 
china,  and  the 
walls  showed 
the  quaint  pa- 
perings  of  a 
past  period. 
The  library 
was  filled  with 
old  edit  ion  s 
and  newspa- 
pers, old  manu- 
scripts,  and 
dusty  scrap- 
books  showing 
press  c  o  ni  - 
ments  upon  the 
period  when 
("lay,  Calhoun 
and  Webster 
swayed  the 
country  with 
their  great  coii- 


Calhoun  himself,  was  another  effort  to  follow  the  style  most  troversies  and  splendid  eloquence.     The  art-gallery  was  hung 

approved  in  ICngland.     It  is,  on  the  whole,  a  poor  structure,  with  family  portraits,  and,  as  a  whole,  "  Fort  Hill  "  presented 

built  of  local  material  and  by  untrained  slave  labor,  yet  the  as  complete  a  setting  for  the  home-life  of  a  great  man  of  the 

front  portico  with  its  columns  of  solid  masonry  is  rather  im-  middle  nineteenth  century  as  could  be  found  in  America, 
posing.     You  can  make  white  columns  absurd,  but,  try  as  you  In  considering  the  influences  exerted  by  the  styles  of  the 

*"Fort  Hiil"  (page  99)  is  now  the  property  of  Clcmson  College,  of  which  it  is  a  part.         'Photographed  by  Mrs.  Thaddeus  llorton. 


96 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


McAliin  House,  Orleans  Square,  Savannah,  Ga. 


Hansell  House,  Rosewell,  Oa.     [1820.] 


Bulloch  House,  Rosewtll,  Ga.    [1820.] 


SAVANNAH  AND  PARTS   OF   THE  FAR   SOUTH 


97 


Greek  revival,  it  is  necessary  to  divide  the  white-columned 
houses  of  the  South  into  two  groups  —  those  built  by  pro- 
fessional architects  and  those  built  by  the  owners  themselves. 
Of  the  two,  the  latter  were  in  the  great  majority.  In  fact, 
almost  the  only  white-columned  houses  showing  the  touch 
of  the  student's  hand  are  those  found  occasionally  in  the 
coast  cities  of  the  South.  One  of  the  earliest  of  these  is 
the  Witte  house, 
of  Charleston. 
This,  as  ex- 
plained else- 
where,^ was  built 
in  1810  after  de- 
signs furnished 
by  English  archi- 
tects, and  is,  on 
the  whole,  a  very 
ambitious  piece 
of  building,  more 
European  than 
American  in 
character.  Al- 
though a  town 
house,  it  enjoys 
all  the  a  d  V  a  n  - 
tages  of  privacy 
in  a  remarkable 
degree,  for  while 
the  front  over- 
looks an  English 
garden  and 
aviary,  the  rear 
is  built  up  on  a 
line  with  the  side 
street  that  marks 
the  city  block,  af- 
fording a  trades- 
men's entrance 
and  the  other 
conveniences  ne- 
cessary. Passing 
along  this  street 
and  looking  up 
at  the  pretentious 
four-story  struct- 
ure from  the 
rear,  one  would 
imagine  it  but  an 
ordinary  city  resi- 
dence, while  in 
reality,  like  a  true 
mystic,  it  hides 
its  beauties  from 
view.  By  adroit 
arrangemen  t 
often  seen  in  Eu- 
ropean cities  it 
turns  its  worst  side  to  the  public,  saving  its  abundant  adorn- 
ment for  those  who  know  and  love  it  intimately.  The  An- 
crum  house,"  with  its  lofty  pillared  portico  to  one  side,  is 
another  Charleston  example  of  the  influence  of  the  Greek 
revival. 

The  Bulloch  house,  Savannah,  Ga.,  which  was  built  in  18 18, 
is,  on  the  whole,  a  pretentious  piece  of  work.     It  was  de- 

1  Plate  1 6,  Part  X.  'Plate  16,  Part  X. 


I'orlico  of  "  Tlie  ilermilaj; 


signed  by  Jay  and  built,  according  to  tradition,  of  English 
brick. 

With  such  houses  as  these  as  models  the  Southern  planter 
of  the  early  nineteenth  century  began  his  task,  which  was  a 
large  one.  Usually  he  had  two  houses  to  build,  one  on  his 
plantation  and  another  in  some  neighboring  village  for  the 
convenience   of   his  family ;    consequently,    such   towns   as 

Athens,  Washing- 
ton  and  La 
Grange,  Ga., 
Greenwood,  Ala., 
Aberdeen,  Miss., 
and  others  of  the 
same  class,  filled 
with  white-pil- 
lared houses  of 
one  kind  or  an- 
other (for  the 
Southerner,  hav- 
ing become  ac- 
customed to  this 
style,  was  satis- 
fied with  no 
other),  sprang  up 
through  the  Cot- 
ton Belt,  and 
maintained  their 
unruffled  exist- 
ence until  the 
breaking  out  of 
the  Civil  War. 

The  building 
of  a  village  house 
and  a  country 
house  were  two 
entirely  diflerent 
propositions,  the 
forme  r  being 
comparatively 
easy,  as  material 
w  a  s  procurable 
with  little  diffi- 
culty ;  but  the 
planter,  clearing 
a  new  plantation, 
and  building  a 
covering  for  him- 
self here  and 
there  throughout 
the  vast  unex- 
plored Southern 
wilderness,  just 
after  the  Revo- 
lution and  at  the 
beginning  of 
the  nineteenth 
century,  was 
facing  the  enormous  task  which  from  time  immemorial  has 
confronted  migratory  man.  First,  of  course,  he  built  a  hut, 
then  he  added  to  it,  then  after  a  few  years,  when  his  land 
began  yielding  plentifully,  he  turned  himself  to  the  building 
of  a  permanent  domicile.  By  this  time  white  columns  were 
to  be  seen  in  the  South.  Perhaps  he  built  a  one-story  house, 
in  which  event  the  white  columns  were  usually  there  just  the 

"  Photographed  by  Mrs.  Thaddeus  Horton. 


the  Savannah  River,  Ga.     [1.S30.P 


98 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


same,  or,  perhaps,  the  plantation  being  near  enough  to  civil- 
ization for  his  family  to  reside  there  all  the  year  round,  he 
prepared  careful  plans,  with  four  great  rooms  to  a  floor  —  two 
on  each  side,  with  a  wide  hallway  running  between  —  and  a 
two-storied  portico  to  the  front  (and  sometimes  to  the  rear  as 
well),  with  the  kitchen  occupying  a  low  pavilion  to  one  side.^ 

Having  perfected  his  plans  the  Southern  planter  set  about 

having  them    executed. 

Bands  of  negroes  searched  [ 
the  uncleared  lands  for  suit- 
able timber.  Trees  were 
often  used  for  columns,  when 
those  of  the  required  pro- 
portions could  be  secured, 
and  if  flutes  were  desired 
they  were  cut  out  by  hand 
(time  was  of  no  considera- 
tion in  the  Cotton  Belt). 
Foliated  capitals  of  one  kind 
or  another  were  occasionally 
used  when  a  workman  could 
be  found  who  could  execute 
so  delicate  a  task  ;  but  until 
ten  years  or  so  before  the 
Civil  War,  when  galvanized 
capitals  first  made  their  ap- 
pearance, the  Doric  Order 
only  was  attempted  in  the 
Cotton  Belt.  Most  com- 
monly, however,  the  col- 
umns were  made  of  masonry, 
rough-cast,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  Hansell  house,^  at  Ros- 
well,  Ga. ;  sometimes  they 
were  built  square,  with  a 
Byzantine  effect ;  and  occa- 
sionally they  were  crude 
constructions  of  long, 
dressed  plank  put  together 
in  sections,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  Bulloch  house,'  at  Ros- 
well,  built  about  1820. 

Working  under  such  dis- 
advantages it  is  not  surpris- 
ing that  seme  of  the  houses 
of  Southern  builders  thus 
planned  and  executed  were, 
as  might  be  expected,  pa- 
thetic objects,  with  enormous 

1  See  drawing  of  Callioun 
House,  Newnan,  (ia.  Plate 
46,  Part  X.  The  Calhoun 
house,  at  Newnan,  has  two 
fronts,  one  a  reprofluction  of 
the  other.  The  story  told  and 
generally  credited  in  connec- 
tion with  thisfact  is  to  the  effect 
that  the  builder  and  his  wife 
disagreed  as  to  whether  the  open  expanse  in  front  of  the  house 
should  Ije  utilized  as  a  lawn  or  a  flower-garden.  It  proved  im- 
possilile  to  settle  this  matter  amicably  until  Mr.  Calhoun  conceived 
the  hapijy  idea  of  allowing  the  house  to  have  two  fronts  and  re- 
peated in  the  rear  the  colonnade  treatment  intended  for  the  front. 
As  a  result  the  Calhoun  house  faces  a  grove  of  trees  on  one  side,  and 
a  terraced  flower-garden  on  the  otlier.  This  arrangement  forced 
the  kitchen  into  a  side  ell  which  otlierwise  might  have  extended 
to  the  rear.  The  kitchen  in  the  far  South  prior  to  the  Civil  War 
was  most  commonly  an  entirely  sejiarate  out-building,  situated  at  a 


tTki 


porticos  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  importance  of  the  house 
into  which  they  afford  entrance,  reminding  one  eternally  of 
such  ambitious  persons  as  invariably  put  their  best  foot  for- 
ward. In  the  South,  as  elsewhere,  man  was  not  master  of 
his  fate  in  architecture,  and  often  houses,  even  those  most 
carefully  planned,  the  proportions  of  whose  columns  were 
most  carefully  studied,  worked  out  their  own  untoward  end, 

,   just   as   a   child  sometimes 

achieves  a  sad  destiny  inde- 
pendent of  its  parent. 
Others  just  as  unexpectedly 
developed  into  true  archi- 
tecture, unions  of  tradition 
and  necessity  in  beauty. 
For  all  that,  however,  the 
white  columned  house  ful- 
filled its  functions  perfectly 
—  which  is  always  the  main 
consideration.  So  perfectly 
that  after  thirty-five  years' 
experience  with  other  styles 
the  rich  Southerner  has 
found  nothing  that  so  per- 
fectly suits  him  ;  and  as  a 
result  many  modern  houses 
of  to-day  in  the  South  are 
repeating  the  colonnade  and 
other  features  of  the  ante- 
bellum residence.  In  time 
the  old  and  the  new  may 
possibly  stand  as  the  ac- 
cepted architecture  of  the 
far  South,  where  climatic 
conditions  are  absolutely 
opposed  to  the  small  win- 
dows, low  ceilings,  and  com- 
pressed styles  acceptable 
elsewhere. 

One  of  the  features  that 
particularly  distinguish  the 
Southern  residence  from  its 
Northern  contemporary  is 
the  presence  of  the  veranda, 
which,  brought  to  the  South 
from  the  West  Indies, 
whence  it  had  travelled  from 
Spain,  Italy,  and  even 
from  England  (there  were 
tavern    verandas    and 


Independent  i'l 


tciian  Cluircli,  Savannah,  Ga.' 


a  covered  passageway,  but  just 
as  often  not.  When  placed  in 
an  ell  tliey  were  invariably 
separated  from  the  body  of  the 
house  by  a  covered  veranda. 
Such  an  arrangem.ent  seems  an 
awkward  one  in  face  of  pres- 
ent-day usages,  but  servants 
being  plentiful  in  the  South 
prior  to  the  War,  no  thought  was  given  to  their  convenience.  A 
very  distinguished  lady  who  in  her  youth  lived  in  the  Drayton- 
Gibbes  house,  Charleston  (Part  X,  Plate  14),  tells  me  that  quite 
often  breakfast  was  served  in  the  drawing-room,  which  occupied 
one  side  of  the  third  floor.  (Think  of  having  a  drawing-room  on 
the  third  floor  !)  "  And,"  she  says,  "  when  we  wanted  a  hot  waf- 
fle the  steward  had  to  run  down  two  flights  of  stairs  and  out  in  the 
yard  to  get  it." 
2  See  cut,  p.age  96. 
The  present  church,  of  white  marble,  liuilt  not  many  years  ago. 


distance  of  50  or  100  feet  from  the  house,  sometimes  reached  by      is  an  exact  reproduction  of  tlie  one  burned  shortly  before. 


SAVANNAH  AND   PARTS   OF   THE  FAR   SOUTH. 


99 


balconies  during  Will  Shakespeare's  day),  developed  many      west  of  the  far  South,  together  with  what  is  to  be  found  on 
new  and  interesting  phases  in   the  hands  of  the  Southern      the  Mississippi  River  representing  with  some  picturesque- 
planter.     First,  there  is  the  porch  of  the  Georgian  Period,      ness  the  architectural  ideas  of  the  Greek  Revival, 
well  illustrated  by  the  Miles  Brewton  House  of  Charleston  ;          Natchez,  on  the  Mississippi,  which  was  first  settled  about 
then    there   is  the  huge  three   ^ ,    1720,  was,  prior  to  the  war,  a 


and  four  story  verandas  of  the 
San  Domingo  houses  of 
Charleston,  presenting  a  form 
of  construction  that  is  continu- 
ally reproducing  itself  through- 
out the  far  South;  finally, 
there  is  the  colonnade  veranda 
of  the  white-pillared  houses  of 
the  Cotton  Belt. 

With  these  three  motifs  to 
work  with,  the  Southern  builder, 
limited  as  he  was  in  material 
and  labor  (for  though  slave 
labor  was  plentiful  it  was  al- 
ways unskilled  during  this 
early  phase  of  Southern  life), 
produced  many  varieties  of  shaded  retreats. 

A  section  of  country  which  affords  an  interesting  exhibit 
of  country  houses,  well  adapted  to  a  semi-tropical  climate,  is 
that  part  of  Louisiana  given  up  to  the  Catholic  parishes 
and  inhabited  almost  exclusively  by  French  Creoles.  These 
parishes,  settled  originally 
by  French-Canadian  immi- 
grants, stretch  from  the 
Gulf  and  Bay  of  Biloxi 
as  far  north  as  Natchez, 
Miss.  As  the  residence 
section  of  what  was  for- 
merly a  colony  of  French 
Catholics,  the  houses  still 
standing  in  these  parishes 
are  naturally  Gallic  in 
character,  and  yet  so 
strongly  influenced  by 
Spanish  ideas  as  well 
(which  on  the  whole  were 
better  suited  to  a  warm 
climate  than  French  ones, 
which  belong  to  a  higher 
latitude)  as  to  be  similar 
in  much  to  the  Hispano- 
English  houses  of  Charleston  and  the  surrounding  country. 

It  is  this  feeling  —  the  Spanish  feeling  —  which  connects 
the  low  pavilion  houses  of  the  French  parishes  with  the  work 
we  have  been  considering;  it  is  this  influence  —  the  Spanish 
influence  —  which  blends  the  east  of  the  far  South  with  the 


"Astrudeville,"  Va, 


typical  city  of  the  Cotton  and 
Sugar  Belt,  and  many  of  its  old 
homes  are  still  intact,  notably 
"Dunleith"  and  "  Monte- 
bello,"  which  may  be  said  to 
stand  for  the  Classic  Revival  in 
its  most  pronounced  form,  as 
adapted  to  plantation  condi- 
tions in  the  far  South. 

All  along  the  Mississippi, 
from  Natchez  through  the  con- 
necting parishes  with  their 
quaint  pavilion  houses,  "White 
Ladies,"  "  Les  C  h  e  n  e  s  ,  ' 
"  Plaisance  Plantation,"  and 
many  other  celebrated  homes 
of  old  Creole  families,  to  New  Orleans,  one  finds  still  many 
buildings  and  customs  that  point  clearly  enough  to  the  life 
of  the  old  seigneurs.  In  Lower  Mississippi  the  signs  of  a 
similar  civilization  are  to  be  found.  "  Beauvoir,"  the  hoii  e 
of  Jefferson  Davis,  is  typical  of  the  houses  of  this  region.     It 

is  surrounded  by  detached 
pavilions,  one  used  as  a 
library,  another  used  for 
the  exclusive  accommoda- 
tion of  gentlemen  guesis, 
and  as  a  whole,  simple, 
cool,  spacious,  it  is  a 
representative  abode  of 
a  Southern  country  gentle- 
man of  that  section  of 
country. 

A  guest  visiting  the  plan- 
t  a  t  i  o  n  homes  of  Lower 
Mississippi  or  in  the 
parishes  is  still  given  a 
cup  of  black  coffee  and  a 
roll  in  the  early  morning; 
then  he  is  invited  to  ac- 
company his  host  on  horse- 
back to  inspect  the  crops. 
On  their  return  breakfast  is  served  —  a  meal  of  real  French 
abundance  and  variety,  accompanied  by  a  display  of  fine  china 
and  linen,  and  tall  bottles  of  Bordeaux — offered  with  a  kind- 
liness and  courtesy  not  to  be  exceeded,  and  enjoyed  to  the  ac- 
companiment of  animated  small-talk.       C.  R.  S.  Horton. 


■-^1^^^ 


"  Beimont,"  Loudon  Couniy,  Va. 


a 


Millford,"  in  the  High  Hill  of  Santee,  S.  C, 


NOWHERE  in  the  South  is  there  a  country-seat 
more  strikingly  individual  than  the  Manning 
homestead  in  the  High  Hills  of  Santee,  South 
Carolina.  Certainly,  few  plantation-houses  were 
ever  built  with  more  care  or  at  greater  cost.  The  architect 
was  induced  to  come  from  New  York  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
putting  up  an  ideal  dwelling  in  this  rural  spot,  where  every 
brick  and  stone,  every  bit  of  framing  and  decoration,  must 
be  got  from  foreign  parts,  freighted  ninety  miles  up  the  San- 
tee River  from  Charleston,  and  hauled  over  crude  roads,  up 
steep  hills,  to  the  site.  The  South  Carolina  Railroad,  pioneer 
of  its  class  in  the  United  States,  was  only  five  or  six  years 
old  when  the  foundations  of  the  house  were  laid  :  and  the 
railroad  passed  nowhere  near  it.  The  river  was  the  only 
practical  means  of  transportation  from  the  outside  world. 
All  the  skilled  laborers  and  decorators  who  aided  in  the 
building  had  to  make  long  journeys  by  private  conveyance 
to  reach  the  spot.  Nevertheless,  the  house,  as  it  stands 
to-day,  would  win  notice  on  a  stately  city  avenue.  And,  all 
solitary  in  its  wildwood  setting,  the  superb,  if  lonely,  pros- 
pect outspread  before  it  but  gives  additional  worth  and  em- 
phasis. 

The  building  was  more  than  two  years  in  course  of  con- 
struction and  is  said  to  have  cost  its  founder  $100,000.  Full 
seventy  feet  long  by  forty-five  feet  wide  and  three  stories  in 
height,  with  a  finely  columned  Grecian  porch,  the  mansion 
pleases  the  eye,  not  only  as  to  substantialness,  but  in  grace 
of  outline.  Although  the  builder  had  a  liking  for  the  ornate 
and  sumptuous,  as  is  proved  by  the  statuary  niched  in  the 
walls  and  the  devices  ornamenting  the  great  pillars  which 
support  the  porch  roof,  only  so  much  decoration  as  comports 
with  the  style  of  architecture  was  permitted  to  appear.  The 
planters  from  the  Georgetown  section,  who  had  dwellings  in 
the  high,  dry  plateau  of  the  Sand  Hills  and  had  lived  there 
successively  since  early  settlement  days,  would  have  con- 
structed fine  homes  for  themselves  long  before  1830  had 
conditions  been  different.  But  up  to  that  time,  lime,  a  chief 
ingredient  in  structures  built  of  stone  or  brick,  was  procured 
only  with  much  difficulty  and  at  expense.  Transportation 
from  sections  where  bricks  were  made  was  a  serious  issue, 
and  as  timber  was  plenty,  the  residents  had  wooden  houses, 
planned  on  an  ample  scale,  but  crude,  from  the  modern 
standpoint,  planing-mills  being  few  and  but  newly  introduced 
in  the  country. 

In  the  first  decade  after  the  Revolution  houses  com- 
fortable and  pleasing  in  structure  were  to  be  found  within  a 
half  mile  of  each  other  in  this  favored  district.  Even  before 
that  time  a  good  classical  school  and  a  circulating-library 
were  supported  there.  And  when  Governor  Manning 
erected  this  sumptuous  new  dwelling  on  the  family  lands  in 
the  Sand   Hills  the  neighborhood  could  furnish   abundant 


society,  descendants  and  connections  of  the  original  settlers, 
people  from  Louisiana  and  Virginia,  having  built  homes  there, 
attracted  by  the  unusually  fine  climate  and  fertile  lands,  peo- 
ple of  cultivated  tastes,  versed  in  the  arts  and  enjoyments  of 
life. 

The  Manning  house  is  unused  now,  although  in  good  pres- 
ervation. With  the  passing  of  slavery,  the  tillage  of  the 
lands  and  the  care  of  the  extensive  grounds  were  too  costly 
to  be  worth  while.  The  visitor's  footsteps  echo  emptily  on  the 
handsome  tiled  flooring  of  the  broad  veranda.  Seldom  are 
the  garden  walks  traversed  save  by  the  pickaninnies,  the 
little  grandchildren  of  the  caretaker.  Occasionally  neigh- 
bors visit  the  spot  to  get  some  rare  plant  or  flowering  shrub 
for  transplanting  to  their  gardens,  or  else  to  look  in  through 
some  gaping  window-blind  at  the  furnishings  within.  But 
entertainments  were  frequent  there  up  to  the  time  that  the 
Civil  War  shut  down  on  an  exceptionally  prosperous  commu- 
nity. The  great  drawing-rooms,  with  their  full-length  mirro's 
and  artistic  decoration,  often  held  gatherings  of  distinguished 
and  interesting  people.  The  Christmas  house-parties  were 
famous.  For  ten  days  at  that  season  all  occupations,  even 
politics,  were  laid  aside  and  jollification  ruled.  Every  plan- 
tation thereabout  had  its  own  band  of  trained  fiddlers,  banjo 
and  bone  players,  enthusiastic  musicians  who  sought  to  outdo 
one  another  in  vim  and  efficiency  when  the  dances  were  held 
at  their  respective  houses.  Sometimes  the  minuet  and  lan- 
cers would  be  danced  with  representatives  of  four  distinct 
generations  in  a  single  set,  so  thoroughly  did  the  old  folks 
and  the  young  unite  in  innocent  pastime. 

The  old  lodge-keeper  at  the  porter's  lodge,  which  yet 
stands  by  the  entrance-gate,  could  tell  of  the  gay  parties  he 
was  wont  to  let  in  and  out  of  the  "  Millford  "  grounds  by  day 
and  night  in  the  happy  days.  But  he,  along  with  a  host  of 
family  retainers,  is  elsewhere  now  seeking  a  living.  Only  one 
ex-slave  does  the  honors  of  the  home-place,  one  Benjamin 
Pleasants,  body-servant  to  the  late  Governor.  The  old  man 
has  little  to  do  as  guardian,  for  the  neighborhood  is  almost  as 
deserted  now  as  it  was  once  populous.  The  fine  mahogany 
tables  and  chairs,  the  rare  old  candlesticks,  the  Japanese 
curios  and  articles  of  virtu  brought  from  foreign  lands  that 
are  yet  within  the  house  are  safe  behind  unlocked  doors,  for 
only  a  simple-minded  tenantry,  who  would  not  know  what  to 
do  with  them  if  they  stole  them,  live  nearby,  and  the  location 
is  far  off  the  track  of  tourists  and  dealers  in  antiquities. 

The  old  body-servant  has  had  romance  in  his  life.  Once, 
in  the  early  forties,  he  attended  his  master  to  Canada.  The 
journey  was  an  undertaking  in  those  days,  and  Ben  was  re- 
garded as  a  hero  by  the  other  house-servants  because  of  the 
chance  to  make  it.  While  in  Canada  some  zealous  aboli- 
tionists kidnapped  Ben,  and  secreted  him  until  Governor 
M  inning  had  ceased  to  make  search  and  had  started  back 


■MILLFORD,"   LV  THE  HIGH  HH.LS   OF  SANTEE,  S.  C. 


lor 


home.  When  they  told  Ben  that  he  was  free  and  need  never 
work  again  for  any  but  his  own  interests,  Ben,  being  thick- 
headed and  warm-hearted,  was  greatly  distressed.  He  kept 
his  own  counsel,  but  resolved  to  work  his  way  back  to  his 
master,  no  matter  how  long  it  took.  He  got  back  after 
months  of  hardship,  and  great  was  the  rejoicing  in  the  "  Mill- 
ford  "  household  on  the  day  he  appeared,  safe  and  sound. 
There  was  frolic  and  feasting  in  the  big  brick  kitchen- 
quarters,  and  numerous  were  the  "paroles"  applied  for  by 
Ben's  friends  on  neighboring  plantations,  anxious  to  get  over 
to  the  Manning  place  and  see  for  themselves  that  he  was 
back,  looking  and  acting  just  as  before. 

Politics  was  a  strong  interest  with  all  the  families  allied 
with  this  family  seat.  The  inmates  could  get  up  a  notable 
company  at  any  time,  just  among  their  own  relatives.  As 
though  the  high  hills  over  which  these  men  ruled  instigated 
in  them  a  spirit  of  dominance,  no  little  corner  of  the  State 


atorial  honor  and  prevented  the  Governor  from  taking  his  seat. 
The  old  home  site  has  several  times  shared  in  epoch-mak- 
ing scenes.  Lord  Rawdon  camped  on  the  spot  in  June, 
1 78 1,  when  he  made  his  long,  forced  march  from  Charleston 
for  the  relief  of  the  garrison  at  Ninety-Six.  Lord  Cornwallis 
had  also  made  the  place  a  visit  on  his  way  to  the  battle  of 
Camden,  the  year  previous.  A  spring-house,  canopied  with 
a  dome  patterned  after  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  in  London,  now 
marks  the  spot  where  the  British  soldiery  got  such  clear, 
cold  water  in  that  burning  midsummer  time.  The  site  is 
just  across  the  river  from  "  Fort  Motte  "  of  romantic  memory, 
and  was  in  direct  line  with  the  other  British  posts  along  the 
Santee  Valley  from  Charleston.  General  Sumter  and  his 
men  passed  and  repassed  "  Millford "  on  their  expeditions 
against  these  posts ;  as  fast  as  Lord  Rawdon  managed  to 
relieve  one  fort,  the  Americans  appearing  before  another. 
It  was  to  these  Sand  Hills  that  Marion  retired  in  the  winters 


\H. 


Dining-room  The  Major  Joseph  Puncan  House  ■ 

■  Pal').-?    Kcriturhy  ■ 
[abotit  r79(i  1 


■E  P  M  QjVr  (Irnwlngs  hy    P  Dougtirrty - 


ever  contributed  so  many  leaders  in  war,  in  legislative  as- 
sembly and  public  matters.  Governor  Manning  himself 
was  the  second  of  his  name  to  fill  the  Gubernatorial  chair. 
He  married,  first,  Miss  Hampton,  a  fine  woman  and  a  fine 
fortune,  and  at  her  death  allied  himself  with  a  distinguished 
Virginia  family.  His  mother  was  of  a  family  whose  habit  it 
was  to  be  Governors,  and  she  held  the  relationship  of  being 
respectively  the  daughter,  sister,  mother  and  aunt  of  a 
Governor  of  South  Carolina,  three  Richardsons  having  at 
various  times  filled  that  ofBce  since  1802,  and  all  descend- 
ants of  that  Richard  Richardson  who  ably  seconded  Gen- 
eral Marion  in  his  military  manoeuvres  conducted  from 
Snow's  Island,  just  across  the  country  from  tlie  Santee.  Im- 
mediately after  the  Civil  War,  Governor  Manning  was  elected 
to  the  United  States  Senate,  but  evil  times  then  prevailed. 
The  carpet-baggers  had  other  views  for  that  particular  Sen- 


to  recruit  his  little,  hard-fought  army,  knowing  that  there 
they  would  be  singularly  exempt  from  the  cold  of  the  low- 
lands. Marion  and  Sumter  were  natives  of  this  district, 
and  understood  its  characteristics.  Once  Sumter,  with 
one  hundred  and  fifty  horsemen,  plunged  into  the  Santee 
near  this  point,  and  gained  the  opposite  bank  successfully 
to  tiie  astonishment  of  the  British,  who  dared  not  follow. 
To  ride,  and  swim,  and  shoot  at  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
were  habitual  with  the  Sand  Hill  dwellers. 

The  black  waters  of  the  Wateree,  which  river  has  a  swamp 
three  miles  deep,  and  the  clay-colored  waters  of  the  Conga- 
ree,  come  together,  and  form  the  Santee  at  a  point  a  few 
miles  above  the  "  Millford  "  landing.  The  confluence  makes  a 
goodly  spectacle.  And  farther  on  the  yellow  waters  prevail, 
the  broad  Santee  preserving  that  tinge  all  its  ninety-odd 
miles  to  the  sea. 


I02 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Once  again,  in  April,  1865,  "  Millford  "  felt  the  impress  of 
hostile  footfall  :  one  of  Sherman's  aides  took  the  house  for 
headquarters,  while  the  raiding  troops  were  passing,  and 
while  that  other  great  army  of  contrabands  was  got  under 
way.  Then  the  ladies  of  the  family  sat  at  the  upper  win- 
dows and  watched  the  rabble  and  tumult  without,  and  be- 
held their  slave  people  passing  on  and  away  to  a  new  era  of 
existence.  The  commanding  officer  was  a  man  of  discrimi- 
nation. He  admired  the  stately  plantation-home  and  pre- 
served order  about  it  to  the  best  of  his  ability.     It  is  twenty 


years  since  the  place  has  been  actually  lived  in.  With 
changing  times  the  family  interests  have  centred  elsewhere, 
the  daughters  marrying  into  other  communities,  the  sons  en- 
gaging in  city  businesses.  No  one  has  time  or  means  to  live 
at  leisure  in  the  old  home  when  so  much  around  and  without 
it  has  changed,  and  so,  although  the  weather  has  made  no 
inroads  as  yet,  and  the  superb  climate  of  the  Hills  is  as  en- 
ticing as  ever,  the  place  is  left  to  itself,  mute  witness  to  the 
tastes  and  requisites  of  a  time  that  is  gone. 

Olive  F.  Gunby. 


The  Men  who  Designed  the  Old  Colonial  Buildings. 


ONE  of  our  architectural  writers  in  comparing 
Gothic  architecture  with  that  of  the  Renaissance 
makes  the  point  that  it  was  in  the  latter  style 
that  the  individuality  of  the  architect  appeared, 
that  all  Gothic  work  by  its  strength  and  vigor  completely 
swept  away  any  personality,  however  strong,  which  the  de- 
signer or  designers  might  possess.  Whether  this  is  really 
true  or  not,  or  whether  the  fact  that  the  chief  knowledge  of 
the  architectural  monuments  of  Northern  Europe  of  the 
Gothic  period  rests  on  only  slight  historical  foundation,  as 
regards  names  and  dates,  while  that  of  the  Renaissance  is 
generally  reenforced  by  pretty  accurate  records  of  the  men 
who  did  the  work,  may  not  be  responsible,  or  whether  it 
is  simply  that  we  do  not  understand  the  characteristics  of 
the  Gothic  works  as  well ;  or  whatever  may  be  the  reason,  it 
is  undoubtedly  true  that  the  architectural  student  can  deter- 
mine with  much  greater  accuracy  from  certain  peculiarities 
of  construction  and  decoration  the  probable  designers  of 
buildings  of  the  Renaissance  period.  The  work  of  Brunel- 
leschi,  of  Michelozzi,  or  Alberti,  of  Palladio,  or  of  their  sev- 
eral schools  can  be  pretty  definitely  determined  by  a  more 
or  less  careful  examination  of  the  work,  and  often  a  building 
shows  distinctly  the  stamp  of  an  individual ;  but  while  Gothic 
work  varies  in  localities  and  shows  for  varying  localities  cer- 
tain distinctly-marked  characteristics,  I  am  not  aware  that 
even  M.  Viollet-le  Due  is  dogmatic  when  it  comes  to  ascrib- 
ing the  work  of  the  great  French  cathedrals  to  this  or  that 
master-mind. 


Even  the  debased  Renaissance  architecture,  which  it  was 
our  fortune  as  colonists  here  in  America  to  receive  from  the 
Mother  Country,  debased  through  the  era,  still  more  debased 
through  English  influence  ;  even  in  this  architecture,  which 
our  ancestors  brought  with  them  and  which  had  at  times  be- 
come so  thoroughly  formal  as  to  admit  of  hardly  any  strength 
of  character,  the  personality  of  the  men  combined  with  their 
environment  resulted  in  many  cases  in  the  expression  of  cer- 
tain individual  peculiarities,  which  make  it  possible  to  dis- 
tinguish the  work  of  some  of  the  earlier  men  apart  from  the 
testimony  of  town  records  and  family  genealogy. 

Strictly  speaking,  up  to  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  I  know  of  no  architects  in  America  ;  but,  if  various 
records  and  histories  speak  truly,  fully  100  years  before  this 
time  plans  and  elevations  of  buildings  were  prepared  and 
drawn  for  the  distinct  purpose  of  either  imitating  or  improv- 
ing upon  English  models,  and  the  men  who  did  this  may  be 
divided  into  two  types,  the  carpenter-architect  and  the  ama- 
teur architect. 

Of  the  first  type,  the  carpenter-architect,  Asher  Benjamin 
is  a  good  example,  though  his  work  was  confined  chiefly  to 
comparatively  unimportant  buildings.  He  began  as  a  car- 
penter working  in  Greenfield,  Deerfield  and  the  surrounding 
Massachusetts  towns.  He  published  a  book  at  Greenfield 
of  the  "simple  and  practical"  type;  then  he  went  to  Boston, 
practised  there  and  published  two  or  three  more  works^  on 
architecture  of  a  much  more  pretentious  sort,  and  died  com- 
paratively a  poor  man,  as  all  good  architects  should.     Of 


>See  list  of  publications,  page  105.  ble  to  lay  hands  on  the  plans  of  the  building,  and  these  that  are 

New  York  City-hall.  —  At  the  time  of  publishing  the  other      lie^e  given  should  be  considered  in  connection  with  Plates  30,  34- 
drawings  of  John  McComb's  City-hall,  New  York,  it  was  not  possi-      37  ^"d  4'''.  J^art  II. 


rt     VlW-     n-J 


Second  rioof  Plan 


THE  MEN   WHO  DESIGNED   THE  OLD   COLONIAL   BUILDINGS. 


103 


the  other  example,  the  "  amateur  "  architect,  Thomas  Jeffer- 
son, from  his  station  in  life,  is  certainly  the  most  notable  ex- 
ample. His  work  from  his  famous  "  four-inch  wall  "  built  in 
a  wavy  line,  so  it  should  not  tip  over,  to  the  schemes  for  the 
University  of  Virginia  are  too  well  known  to  need  more  than 
passing  mention.  Both  of 
the  examples  quoted  are, 
however,  of  rather  a  late 
period.  Of  the  seven- 
teenth-century work  the 
greater  part  owes  its  archi- 
tectural features  to  the 
carpenter-architect  and,  I 
am  inclined  to  think,  to 
some  book  of  plates.  Of 
course,  many  of  these  ear- 
lier men  had  not  even  this 
aid ;  in  fact,  a  good  many 
examples  of  the  work  in 
districts  more  remote  from 
the  larger  towns  show 
plainly  that  the  decorated 
pediments  over  front  doors, 
cornices,  and  pilaster  caps 
are  worked  out  from  mem- 
ory or  tradition,  for  the  exe- 
ecution  of  the  work  is  too 
good  to  lay  the  peculiarities 
of  the  finished  product  to 
lack  of  ability  to  carry  out 
the  desired  effect. 

There  are  even  now,  in 
libraries,  in  garrets  and 
in  the  possession  of  a  few 
book-collectors,  works  pub- 
lished, largely  in  England  and  some  in  America,  during  the 
eighteenth  century  manifestly  intended  for  the  aid  of  the  car- 
penter and  usually  advertising  on  the  title-page  this  fact  in 
convincing  and  often  amusingly  ingenuous  language. 

John   Allis,  born    in  Braintree   in   1642,  who  married  a 


Gateway  to  the  Thomas  Cowles  Place,  Farntinitton,  ConD. 
[See  Plate  m,  Part  IX.] 


West  Springfield  indicate  that  aesthetic  effect  was  sought  for 
by  the  builder  even  though  he  was  at  the  same  time  a 
contractor.  Much  of  the  ornamental  work  he  personally 
executed. 

At  New  London,  John  Elderkin,  who  came  to  that  town 

from  Lynn  in  1651,  built 
the  meeting-house  and  the 
parsonage  and  probably 
was  called  upon  to  aid  in 
the  designing  of  many  of 
the  older  houses  in  South- 
eastern Connecticut.  Old 
account-books,  church 
records  and  journals  men- 
tion these  earlier  men  al- 
most invariably  as  builders. 
At  times  the  church  com- 
mittees give  directions, 
more  or  less  explicit,  as  to 
the  architectural  style 
which  the  building  shall  fol- 
low, usually  a  copy  of  some 
building  of  greater  or  less 
notoriety. 

Richard  Munday  built 
the  Town-hall  at  Newport 
in  1783.  John  Smibert  is 
responsible  for  Faneuil 
Hall,  in  Boston.  Peter 
Banner  did  the  Park  Street 
Church  in  Boston,  and  at 
the  head  probably  of  these 
men  stands  Peter  Harrison, 
who  undoubtedly  had  re- 
ceived in  England  more  or 
less  of  a  technical  education  in  architecture.  He  is  said  to 
have  been  of  assistance  to  Sir  John  Vanbrugh  and  a  pupil 
of  James  Gibbs's,  and  his  admirers  feel  that  he  should  be 
placed  in  a  different  rank  from  the  other  men  of  his  time. 
Whether  he  derived  his  income  solely  from  the  making  of 


House  in  Providence,  R.  I. 

widow  and  had  eleven  children  and  who  came  to  Hatfield 
from  Springfield  in  i66i,  is  one  of  the  earliest  of  these  car- 
penter-architects of  whom  I  have  been  able  to  find  any  record. 
He  designed  the  first  church  in  West  Springfield,  built  in 
1668,  and  the  churches  in  Hatfield  and  in  Hadley.  I  say  he 
designed  them,  for  the  records  of  the  old  First  Church  in 


House  on  Benefit  Street,  Providence,  R.  I. 

plans  or  not,  I  do  not  know.  Unless  he  did  I  see  no  reason 
why  he  should  not  be  classed  with  the  amateur  architects  or 
the  carpenter-architects. 

In  New  York,  one  McBean,  who  lived  in  New  Brunswick, 
N.  J.,  designed  in  1764  St.  Paul's  Chapel.  It  is  possible 
that  he  was  a  pupil  of  Gibbs's,  but  it  is  more  probable  that 


ro4 


THE  GEORGIAN'  PERIOD. 


drawings  of  Gibbs's  work  furnished  him  with  his  inspiration. 
In  Farmington,  Conn.,  Judah  Woodruff,  a  man  prominent  in 
the  town  affairs,  was  the  leading  builder  of  Western  Connec- 
ticut. He  designed  the  church  at  Farmington,  which,  by  the 
way,  is  a  free  copy  of  the  one  in  Wethersfield.  He  designed 
and  built  a  dozen  of  the  fine  old  houses  of  which  Farmington 
now  is  justly  proud,  and  he, 
like  John  Allis,  of  Hatfield, 


executed  much  of  his  own 
designing,  the  capitals  of 
the  pulpit  and  an  elabo- 
rately carved  sounding- 
board  having  been  done 
by  his  own  hand.  (Some 
of  the  best  Colonial  fes- 
toons decorating  a  window- 
cap  that  I  ever  saw,  by  the 
way,  a  lady  in  Old  Hadley 
told  me  "grandpa"  had 
himself  cut  out  with  a  jack- 
knife.) 

Capt.  Isaac  Damon,  of 
Northampton,  who  belongs 
to  a  rather  later  period, 
designed  and  built  cer- 
tainly a  half  dozen 
churches,  two  or  three 
court-houses  and  his  fame 
as  a  bridge  designer  and  builder  in  the  early  part  of  this 
century  reached  far  beyond  New  England. 

However,  it  must  be  confessed  that  the  larger  share  of 
glory  belongs  to  the  men  classed  as  amateur  architects. 
Probably  they  are  not  amateurs  in  a  strict  sense  of  the  word, 
for  many  of  them  received  pay  for  their  services ;  on  the 
other  hand,  the  designing  of  buildings  was  an  avocation 
rather  than  a  vocation.  To  this  class  of  men  belongs  Joseph 
Brown,  of  Providence,  born  in  1733.     He  was  a  merchant 


Rear  View;    First  Baptist  Church,  Providence,  R.  I.     [i745-] 


forms  of  architecture."  Another  of  the  Providence  amateurs 
was  John  Greene,  born  in  Rhode  Island  in  1777.  He  de- 
signed the  First  Congregational  Meeting-house,  the  Episcopal 
and  the  First  Universalist  Churches,  and  the  well-meant  res- 
toration in  one  of  these  churches  along  in  the  middle  of  the 
nineteenth  century  so  injured  the  church  in  his  eyes  that  he 

never  again  attended  it. 

In  Philadelphia,  Dr. 
John  Kearsley  was  the  ar- 
chitect of  St.  Bartholo- 
mew's Church,  which  was 
built  in  1727,  and  to  An- 
drew Hamilton  is  ascribed 
Independence  Hall,  though 
authorities  differ  as  to  this 
latter  building.  Watson's 
"Annals  of  Philadelphia  " 
gives  Dr.  Kearsley  the 
credit  for  this  as  well  as 
for  Christ  Church.  Evi- 
dently Kearsley  and  Ham- 
ilton were  both  on  the 
Building  Committee  for 
the  Hall,  and  it  is  probable 
that  Hamilton's  plan  was 
used.  The  latter  was  edu- 
cated in  London  and  was  a 
proiegi  of  William  Penn's 
and  held  several  high  offices  in  the  Province.  He  died  in  1741. 
To  Thomas  Jefferson  is  ascribed  the  University  of  Vir- 
ginia and  several  of  the  more  prominent  Virginia  mansions, 
including  his  own  house  at  Monticello,  and  he  collaborated 
with  Clarissault,  a  French  architect,  on  the  Capitol  Building 
at  Richmond. 

With  John  McComb,  born  in  1763,  who  died  in  1853,  and 
whose  work  includes  the  City-hall  in  New  York  and  St. 
John's  Church,  built  at  the  beginning  of  this  century,  begins 


^^^^      '?M^-v^... : -i- ~;:.~^..v.       ^^^^| 

B    WH^^'Z-r'A 

M 

■■■  1H 

Interior  of  the  First  Baptist  Chiircli,  Providence,  R.  I. 


and  grew  rich  enough  to  be  independent  and  then  he  indulged 
his  natural  taste  for  science.  He  was  particularly  interested 
in  electricity  and  mechanics.  He  was  a  member  of  the 
American  Academy  of  Arts  and  Sciences  and  a  trustee  of 
Brown  University,  and  in  1775  he  designed  the  First  Baptist 
Church,  still  standing  in  Providence,  and  his  own  house,  since 
destroyed,  which  35  years  ago  was  occupied  by  the  Provi- 
dence Bank.'  He  was  sent  in  1774  with  Mr.  Hammond,  by 
the  church,  to  Boston  "  in  order  to  view  the  different  churches 
and  make  a  memoranda   of   their   several  dimensions   and 


a  period  that  may  be  said  to  deal  with  the  modern  archi- 
tects —  Bulfinch,  L'Enfant,  Latrobe.  The  works  and  lives 
of  these  men  are  well  known  and  they  are  hardly  more  than 
a  generation  removed  from  our  own. 

What  training  or  education  the  American  architects  of 
the  eighteenth  century  may  have  had,  I  do  not  know,  as  I 
have  been  unable  to  find  any  clear  evidences  that  any  of 
them  worked  with,  or  were  apprenticed  to,  English  architects. 

In  many  cases  this  has  seemed  probable  and  several  of 

'  Plate  39.     Part  XII. 


THE  MEN   WHO  DESIGNED    THE   OLD   COLONIAL    BUILDINGS. 


105 


the  more  prominent  men  mentioned  are  said  to  have  been 
assistants  to  some  of  the  better  known  English  architects? 

As  I  have  said  above,  it  seems  to  me  much  more  probable 
that  most  of  the  inspiration  came  through  the  published 
works  which  were  to  a  considerable  extent  imported  from 
England,  and  I  have  appended  a  short  list*  of  some  of  these 
works.  There  are,  doubtless,  a  good  many  others  of  which 
I  do  not  know,  and  I  do  know  that  the  books  in  the  list  are 


to  be  found  quite  generally  in  New  England,  sometimes  in 
public  libraries  and  sometimes  in  private  families  where  they 
have  been  kept  for  a  hundred  years,  or  since  their  publication. 
There  are  in  the  list  a  very  few  books  published  in  this 
country  and  it  would  be  interesting  if  some  one  better  fitted 
than  myself  could  make  a  much  fuller  catalogue  of  these 
earliest  American  works  on  architecture. 

George  Clarence  Gardner. 


A   FEW    IDENTIFIED   BUILDINGS. 


[The  dates  merely  approximate 

Allys,  John  [1665-1700]. 

Churches  in  West  Springfield,  Hatfield  and  Hadley,  Mass. 
Ames,  John  [1814]. 

Churches  at  Ashfield  and  Northboro  [.'J,  Mass. 
Benjamin,  Asher  [1790]. 

Carew  House,   Springfield  ;   HoUister  House,  Greenfield  ; 
Alexander   House,  Springfield ;    West  Church,  Boston  ; 
Colton  House,  Agawam.     All  in  Massachusetts. 
Banner,  Peter  [18  io]. 

Park  Street  Church,  Boston,  Mass. 
Brown,  Joseph  [1775]. 

First  Baptist  Church;  Providence  Bank,  Providence,  R.I. 
BtJLFiNCH,   Charles. 

State-house,  Boston,  Mass.,  1795  ;  State-house,  Augusta, 
Me.,  1832;  Court-house,  Worcester,  Mass.,  1801  ;  Couit- 
house,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  1805  ;  State  Prison,  Charles- 
town,  Mass.,  1804;  Massachusetts  General  Hospital, 
Boston,  Mass.,  1818;  University  Hall,  Cambridge, 
Mass.,  1814;  New  North  Church,  Boston,  1804;  Meet- 
ing-houses at  Pittsfield,  Weymouth,  Taunton  and  Lan- 
caster, Mass.,  and  Peterboro,  N.  H.,  and  many  other 
buildings  not  now  standing. 

Damon,  Isaac   [1804]. 

First  Church  in  Northampton ;  First  Church  in  Spring- 
field; Church  in  Pittsfield;  Court-house  in  Pittsfield; 
Court-house  in  Lenox;  North  Church  in  Ware.  All  in 
Massachusetts.  Bridges  across  the  Connecticut  at 
Charlestown,  N.  H.,  Springfield  and  Chicopee ;  and 
across  the  Penobscot,  Hudson  and  Ohio  Rivers. 
Elderkin,  John  [1660]. 

First  Church  and  Parsonage,  New  London,  Conn. 
Greene,  John  [i8i4(?)]. 

First    Congregational,    Episcopal    and    First   Universalist 
Churches,  Providence,  R.  I. 
Hamilton,   Andrew  [1735]. 

Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Hooker,  Philip  [1813]. 

Boys'  Academy,  Albany,  N.  Y. 


the  time  of  the  designer's  activity.] 

Harrison,   Peter  [1760]. 

Christ    Church,    Cambridge ;    Town    Market,    Redwood 
Library  and  Jewish  Synagogue,  Newport,  R.  I. 
HoADLEV,   David  [1812]. 

North  Church,  New  Haven,  Conn. 
Jefferson,   Thomas. 

University  of  Virginia  and  "  Monticello,"  Virginia. 
Johnson,   Ebenezer  [1815]. 

United  Church,  New  Haven,  Conn. 
Kearsley,  Dr.  John  [1727]. 

St.  Bartholomew's  and  Christ  Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Munday,  Richard  [1783]. 

Town-hall,  Newport,  R.  I. 
McBean, [1764]. 

St.  Paul's  Chapel,  New  York. 
McComb,  John  [1803-15]. 

St.  John's  Chapel  and  City-hall,  New  York,  N.  Y. 
McIntire,  Samuel  [1806]. 

South  Church,  Salem,  Mass. 
Pell,  Edward   [1721]. 

North  Church,  Hanover  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 
Rhodes,  Samuel   [i77o(?)]. 

Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Smibert,  John  [1742]. 

Fanueil  Hall,  Boston,  Mass. 
Smith,  Robert. 

Carpenters'  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Spratz,  Wm.   [1776-78]. 

Deming    House.    Litchfield,    Conn.,   and    Cowles    House, 
Farmington,  Conn. 
Twelves,  Robert  [1730]. 

South  Church,  Boston,  Mass. 
Woodruff,  Judah  [1769-90]. 

Gay  House,  Congregational  Church,  Samuel  Cowles 
House,  Major  Hooker  House,  Wm.  Whitman  House, 
Romanta  Norton  House.     All  in  Farmington,  Conn. 


♦BOOKS   USED   BY  THE   EARLY   ARCHITECTS. 


Adams,  R.  &   S.     ^'  IVorks  in  Architeclure."      1773-1822. 

Benjamin,  A.,  ANn  Kavnkrd,  V>.  '•  Thi  American  Builder's  Com- 
panion" or  a  new  system  of  architecture.     44  I'lates.     Boston,  1806. 

Benjamin,  Asher.  '^The  Rudiments  0/  Architecture."  Boston, 
First  Edition,  1814;  Second' Edition,  1S20.  "  Ifand hoot  of  Architect- 
ure."      Boston,  1834.      Country  Builder's  Assist,! at"     Greentield,  1796. 

Campbell,  C.      "Vitnnius  Britannicus."       London,  1715-25. 

"  The  Builder's  Dictionary,  or  Gentleman's  and  Architect's  Compan- 
ion."    2  Volumes,  33  Plates.     Ixjndon,  1734. 

(JiBBS,  J.  "Rules  for  drawins;  the  Several  Parts  of  Architecture." 
I>ondon,  1753. 

JoNF.s,  I.  "Designs  consisting  of  Plans  and  Elevations  for  Public 
and  Private  Buildini;s."     Published  by  W.  Kent.     London,  1770. 

Jones,  L,  AND  OTHERS.  "  Designs  published  by  IVare, /."  London, 
1756. 


Langi.f.V,  B.  "  The  City  and  Country  Builder's  and  IVoriman's 
Treasury  of  Designs"  or  the  art  of  drawing  and  working  the  ornamental 
parts  of  architecture.     200  I'lates.      Ixindon,  I75<>. 

Langi.f.V,  B.  &  T.     ■■•  Builder's  Jewel."     London,  1763. 

Langi.ky,  T.     •■  Builder's  Jewel."     No  date. 

Norman,  J.  "  The  Town  and  Country  Builder's  Assistant"  etc.,  By 
a  lover  of  architecture.      59  I'lates.      Boston.  1786. 

Pain,  William.  "  The  Practical  Builder,  or  Worktnan  s  General 
Assistant,"  Vi'ith  Plans  and  Elevations  of  Gentlemc-n's  and  harm-houses. 
Barns,  etc.     The  Fourth  Edition,  83  Plates.     Boston,  1792. 

SoANE,  Sir  J.  '•  Sietches  in  Architecture,"  containing  plans  and 
elevations  of  cottages,  villas  and  other  useful  buildings.  52  Plates- 
London,  1793. 

Swan,  A.  "The  British  Architect  or  Builder's  Treasury  of  .Stair- 
cases, etc."     60  Plates.      London,  1745. 


The  Greek  Revival  and  Some  Other  Things. 


SOME  reviewers  of  this  work  have  expressed  the  belief 
that  its  title  ou;^ht  to  have  been  "  The  Georgian 
Style"  and  not  the,  as  they  maintain,  rather  mislead- 
ing title  that  was  actually  adopted.  If  it  had  been 
the  intention  to  confine  the  enquiry  to  the  Free-Classic  work 
commonly  known  in  this  country  as  Old  Colonial  and  in 
England  as  Georgian,  the  name  they  suggest  would  have 
been  fitting  enough,  but,  as  the  enquiry  was  to  have  a 
broader  scope,  a  more  comprehensive  title  was  desirable, 
and  the  one  chosen,  covering,  as  it  does,  the  century  or  so  be- 
tween the  crowning  of  the  first  English  George  and  the  death 


"  Wyck,"  an  interesting  Colonial  building  in  Germantown, 
was  built  for  a  Welsh  owner,  and  there  are  others.  But  the 
influence  of  this  branch  of  the  Celtic  family  is  shown  in 
the  prevailing  liking  for  stone  buildings  and,  particularly, 
in  the  abundant  use  of  dormers  and  gables  with  roofs  at 
forty-five  degrees,  so  abundant  in  modern  work  in  the  out- 
skirts of  Philadelphia. 

The  result  of  this  scheme  of  procedure  has  been  that 
there  has  been  brought  to  the  attention  of  the  reader 
the  fact  that  there  are  several  distinct  types  of  buildings 
existing  and  still  exerting  their  influence  in  different  parts 


^.^^■g^i^^^L^:^-.  - 


'■^r^^^ 


0\^7Ao-numcnlt     cjf   the  ll^^-v61ufejonmy -Period.  . 
The  old    ^owtler  To-wer.  Somerv1IlleT7^ai.S3c 


of  the  last  one  [17 14-1827],  afforded  the  latitude  that  was 
sought  and  at  the  same  time  indicated  that  work  in  the  Geor- 
gian style  was,  after  all,  the  chief  consideration.  Because  of 
this  broader  title  it  has  been  possible  to  examine  not  only  the 
vernacular  work  of  the  ingenuous  early  builder,  often  pictur- 
esque and  not  seldom  of  much  significance,  but  as  well,  in  some 
slight  way,  the  work  of  the  Dutch,  Swedes,  Germans,  and  to 
hint  that  the  work  of  the  French  and  Spanish  settlers,  which 
had  in  it  hardly  a  trace  of  the  influence  of  the  Georgian  style 
proper  was,  nevertheless,  characteristic  and  interesting. 

With  more  space  and  time,  it  would  have  been  interestino- 
to  show  how  distinct  an  influence  on  I'ennsylvania  architect- 
ure the  building  traditions  of  the  Welsh  immigrants  had  had. 


106 


of  the  country,  types  which  can  hardly  withstand  much 
longer  the  levelling  influence  of  the  more  easy  intercommu- 
nication of  modern  days  and  the  subtile  undermining  of 
traditionary  methods  by  the  fashion  of  the  hour. 

In  one  particular  the  unstated  programme  had  to  be 
varied  :  it  was  distinctly  the  purpose  to  eschew  and  avoid 
the  buildings  erected  under  the  influence  of  the  Greek  Re- 
vival ;  but  a  fuller  consideration  of  the  work  in  the  South 
showed  that,  if  work  carried  out  under  the  influence  of  the 
Greek  Revival  were  to  be  left  out  of  the  examination,  a  very 
considerable    quantity   of   interesting  buildings,  thoroughly 


THE   GREEK  REVIVAL   AND    SOME   OTHER    THINGS 


107 


typical  of  the  Southern  States  and  forming  a  very  character- 
istic group  in  our  heterogeneous  architecture,  would  have  to 
go  without  description  and  illustration,  and  to  omit  these 
seemed  liked  introducing  at  the  last  moment  an  unnecessary 
rigidity  into  a  very  elastic  programme.  For  these  reasons 
the  work  of  the  post-Georgian  period  is  exhibited  with  some 
freedom  in  these  closing  pages.  Moreover,  while  the  revived 
interest  in  Grecian  forms  seems  to  have  been  felt  earlier  in 
the  South  than  at  the  North,  it  was  not,  as  a  cult,  honored 
with  the  same  strict  observance  that  Northern  designers 
yielded.  The  disease,  to  call  it  so,  was  of  rather  a  mild 
type,  though  of  long  persistence,  and  the  result  is  that,  while 
there  are  to  be  found  here  and  there  a  temple-fronted  house 
such  as  is  found  in  the  North  in  multitudes,  the  greater  part 
of  the  buildings  which  show  the  influence  of  Greek  forms 
show  them,  not  bookishly  pure,  as  in  the  North,  but  blended 
with  the  Free-Classic  of 
Georgian  work  and  the 
vernacular  of  the  native 
builder.  The  amusing 
liberties  that  have  been 
taken  with  the  accepted 
parts  and  proportions  of 
the  orders  which  are  to  be 
noted  in  almost  any  speci- 
men of  Southern  work  are 
to  be  attributed  partly  to 
the  employment  of  slave 
labor  and  partly  to  that  il- 
literacy of  the  white  me- 
chanic-class in  the  South 
which  made  them  less 
faithful  students  of  such 
books  and  drawings  as 
came  in  their  way. 

That  the  Greek  move- 
ment should  have  begun 
earlier  in  the  South  —  if  it 
did  really  begin  earlier  — 
than  in  the  North  is  en- 
tirely reasonable.  The 
Southern  planter  travelled 
abroad  more  persistently 
and  in  greater  numbers 
than  did  the  members  of 
the  merchant  and  manu- 
facturing classes  of  the 
Northern  States.  Climatic  change  was  more  frequently 
desirable,  for  one  thing,  and  for  another,  as  the  planter  class 
were  largely  mere  spenders  of  income,  the  real  business  of 
tiieir  estates  being  managed  by  factors  and  overseers,  they 
had  both  the  idle  time  and  the  accumulated  income  to  spend 
in  travel.  In  this  way  they  became  cognizant  of  what  was 
the  newest  fashion  in  architecture,  and,  returning  home,  had 
their  next  buildings  designed  in  the  new  mode  —  as  they  re- 
membered it.  The  Northerner,  on  the  other  hand,  heard  of 
the  Greek  Revival  mainly  by  correspondence  and  obtained 
his  data  from  imported  books,  which  his  skilled  mechanics 
were  able  to  follow  accurately  and  textually,  and  the  build- 
ings that  were  created  through  their  aid,  having  the  pedantic 

'  Latrobe,  Henjamix.  — Amongst  the  private'houses  in  Wash- 
ington built  by  Latrobe  are  the  Decatur  house,  on  Lafayette 
Square,  and  tlie  Van  Ness  house,  now  a  drinking-resort  for 
negroes,  at  the  foot  of  Seventeenth  St. 

•Stricklamj,     William. — -Born     in     Philadelphia,      17S7. 


Maritime  Exchange,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     Wni.  Strickland,  Architect. 


Stiffness  that  was  to  be  expected,  merely  emphasized  the 
fact  that  a  Greek  temple  was  never  designed  to  give  home- 
like and  appropriate  surroundings  for  English  or  American 
men  and  women  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

The  Southern  designers,  whether  amateur  or  professional, 
on  the  other  hand,  succeeded  in  making  a  fairly  individual 
and  interesting  "  blend  "  of  Greek  and  Free-Classic  [Roman] 
forms,  which  finally  crystallized  into  a  formula,  according  to 
which  a  large  number  of  plantation-houses — to  which,  be- 
cause of  their  landscape  setting  and  their  surroundings,  the 
adjectives  "elegant"  and  "lordly"  are  not  at  all  inappli- 
cable— were  built,  not  only  in  the  first  quarter  of  the  last 
century,  but  up  to  the  time  when  building  undertakings  of 
all  kinds  came  to  an  end  with  the  beginning  of  the  Civil 
War. 

Who   designed    these    houses  is  not  likely  to  be  known. 

Jefferson,  of  course,  had 
an  influence,  and  so  too 
did  Dr.  Thornton  and  Dr. 
Kearsley,  and  it  is  only 
probable  that  some  of  the 
men  who  sent  in  designs 
for  the  Capitol  at  Wash- 
ington, as  Mclntire,  Dobie, 
Diamond,  Lamphire,  Blod- 
gett,  Mayo  and  others, 
men,  so  far  as  we  know,  of 
no  great  ability,  may  have 
been  capable  of  doing  in 
private  work  something 
better  than  they  suggested 
for  the  nation's  chief  build- 
ing; some  at  least  had 
training  and  were  in  some 
degree  practitioners  of  ar- 
chitecture. Hoban,  at  any 
rate,  is  known  to  have  prac- 
tised in  Charleston  before 
he  came  to  Washington  to 
do  the  "  White  House,"  and 
it  is  known  that  it  was  a 
cause  of  complaint  against 
some  of  the  early  architects 
connected  with  the  Capitol 
that  they  spent  time  in 
working  for  private  clients 
that  should  have  been  de- 
voted to  the  Government.  It  is  doubtful  if  Bulfinch's  influ- 
ence ever  extended  farther  South  than  Baltimore  and  Wash- 
ington ;  but  Ithiel  Towne  built  the  State-house  for  North 
Carolina,  and  that  would  give  him  an  introduction  to  planters 
who  were  within  visiting  distance  of  the  State  capital ;  and 
we  fancy  that  if  Latrobe's^  drawings  should  be  examined  it 
would  be  found  that  he  had  not  a  few  clients  in  the  South. 
McComb,  too,  a  man  whose  work  is  less  known  than  ought 
to  be  the  case,  and  who  doubtless  built  some  of  the  houses 
along  the  Hudson,  may  well  have  had  Southern  clients,  and 
where,  later,  the  Greek  influence  is  very  marked,  Strickland, - 
whose  Maritime  Exchange  in  Philadelphia  is  a  striking  piece 
of  work,  may  well  have  had  a  hand  in  it.     But  it  is  not  to  be 


Studied  architecture  under  Benjamin  Latrobe.  Died  in  1854. 
His  last  work  was  the  State-house  at  Nashville,  Tenn.,  unfinished 
at  the  time  of  his  death.  Besides  the  Maritime  Exchange,  in 
Philadelphia,  in  whicli  city  most  of  his  work  lies,  he  was  the 
architect  of  the  Mint,  the  Naval  Asylum  and  the  old  Masonic 
Hall. 


io8 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


assumed  that  trained  skill  was  always  employed.  Americans 
are  good  imitators,  and  a  model  to  set  the  fashion  for  the 
local  mechanic  was  all  that  was  needed  for  a  neighborhood. 
The  variations  in  the  conditions  of  the  problem  and  the  pas- 
sion for  exercising  the  native  inventive  faculties  were  enough 
to  prevent  the  later  buildings  from  being  mere  textual  copies. 
The  effect  of  the  existence  of  a  type  or,  it  may  be,  merely 
of  a  pattern,  or,  again,  the  mere  presence  of  a  single  individual 
in  a  neighborhood,  is  interestingly  shown  in  the  little  decayed 
town  of  Duxbury,  Mass.,  where  in  the  Waterman  house  we 
came  upon  a  mantelpiece^  which  was  not  only  interesting  at 
first  sight,  but  seemed  to  be  absolutely  unique.     Further  in- 


that  American  work  was  more  or  less  tinctured  with  the 
coming  style  long  before  the  revival  broke  upon  us  with  full 
force.  The  architects  of  the  present  day  are  so  possessed 
with  the  belief  in  their  own  unimpeachable  value  in  and  to 
the  world  of  art  that  they  seem  blind  to  the  fact  that  in  this 
country  there  were  architects  before  them  ;  that  these  well- 
proportioned  and  delicately  detailed  mansions,  which  men  and 
women  of  feeling  now  delight  in,  are  the  certain  evidence  of 
the  existence  of  architects  quite  as  truly  artists  as  any  of  the 
architects  of  to-day  whose  income  may  be  ten  times  as  great. 
The  fact  that  these  honored  buildings  are,  generally  speak- 
ing, the  work  of  nameless  men  is  but  a  reminder  that,  for  all 


vestigation  proved,  however,  that  there  were  other  houses  in 
the  town  in  whose  mantels  the  novel  treatment  of  pilaster  and 
frieze  was  repeated  :  it  was  a  common  local  form,  common, 
perhaps,  to  other  towns  on  the  Cape,  but  not  found  else- 
where. 

Stuart  and  Revett's  first  book  was  published,  in  parts,  be- 
tween 1762  and  1816,  and,  as  many  Southern  gentlemen 
besides  Jefferson  left  with  their  book-dealers  in  London  and 
Paris  orders  to  send  them  with  their  yearly  or  semi-annual 
supplies  any  books  that  were  attracting  notice,  it  is  possible 

M'Iate42,  Part  XII. 

""  Georgian  Architecture  in  Dtiblin  "  .•  Vol.  II,  page  io6. 

'  HoBAN,  James.  —  Born  in  Kilkenny  County,  Ireland,  about 
1762.  Educated  in  Dublin.  Emigrated  to  Charleston,  S.  C,  in 
1 78-.     Designed  the  .State-house  at  Columbia,  .S.  C.  (since  burned). 


his  braggadocio,  the  fashionable  architect  of  the  hour  will 
himself  be  unknown  to  posterity  and  his  name  never  asso- 
ciated with  some  possibly  good  and  delicate  piece  of  work  of 
his  that  may  have  endured  the  wear  and  tear  of  ages. 

In  an  earlierpaper"  has  been  shown  some  part  of  the  large 
amount  of  interesting  Georgian  work  that  is  to  be  found 
in  Dublin,  and,  as  it  was  in  Dublin  that  James  Hoban  '  ac- 
quired his  training,  it  is  but  natural  that  the  work  he  designed 
in  this  country  should  seem  first-cousins  to  that  by  which  his 
susceptible  early  years  were  surrounded.     Hoban  was  one 


Introduced  to  General  Washington  by  Governor  Laurens,  of 
South  Carolina.  Won  the  competition  for  the  President's  man- 
sion, and  afterwards  was  always  in  Government  employ  —  as 
Superintendent  of  the  Capitol,  In.spector  of  Government  Work, 
Surveyor  of  Public  Buildings.     He  died  in  1831. 


THE   GREEK  REVIVAL   AND   SOME   OTHER    THINGS. 


109 


of  the  first  of  the  many  Irishmen  who  have  done  much  to  Alpin  family,  built  on  the  Savannah  River,  near  Savannah, 
elevate  the  intellectual  character  of  this  country,  just  as  his  about  1830,  and  that,  in  turn,  has  what  might  almost  be 
more   humble  countrymen  have  done   much  to  improve  its      called  a  repetend  in  the  McAlpin  house'' in  Savannah  itself, 

OL»Hoi/;e^t  Brent  fvJie 

Pnfvce  Wlli^mfo  Va 


iXl  1:1  !■'  'TTt 


-fifL 


physical  conditions.  His  name,  as  long  as  the  "White  House" 
at  Washington  stands,  will  be  known  to,  and  remembered  by, 

intelligent     enquirers,     a!-  

though  it  may  not  have  as 
wide  a  popular  repute  as 
Major  L'Enfant's,'  who,  if 
his  fame  had  depended  on 
Robert  Morris's  uncom- 
pleted house,  instead  of 
upon  his  plan  for  the  city 
of  Washington,  would  have 
hardly  had  a  happier  fate 
than  has  befallen  the  de- 
signers of  some  of  the 
admirable  work  of  the 
eighteenth  century. 

Equally   admirable  in 
their  way,  in  spite  of  their 
belonging  so  pronouncedly 
to  the  Greek  school  and  to 
the  nineteenth  century,  are 
four  houses  which    may 
have  been  designed  by  the 
same  hand  in  spite  of  their 
being  so  widely  separated 
as    Nashville    and    Savan- 
nah.    Perhaps  there  was  a 
blood-tie  between  the  McAlpins  of  Savannah  and  Andrew 
Jackson,  perhaps  it  is  only  a  case  of  hero-worship,  but,  quite 
as  likely,  it  is  a  case  where 
inspiration    and    suggestion 
originated  with  the  architect. 
In   any  case  "Hermitage,"^ 
the  well-known  home  of  An- 
drew Jackson,  the  shrine  of 
many  a  Democratic  pilgrim- 
age, has  a  namesake  in  the 
"Hermitage"*  of  the  Mc- 


1 1 

m 

JriMiJ 

HSSSS^^ 

fiip 

.11  n 

IMH 

|i|^''i  ll'llf  !|'|'||i|i'|iii"t  ■itttyt'trn-'Yft 

—  >  1  ■   ■  ^     

''•isaA'" ' 

Chetwood  House,  East  Jersey  Street,  Elizabeth,  N.  J. 


while  an  even  closer  likeness  is  found  in  the  house  °  of  James 
K.  Polk  at  Nashville."     It  is  true  that  the  porch  of  Presi- 

dent  Polk's  house  is  distyle 

in  antis,  while  the  "  Her- 
mitage "  on  the  Savannah 
River  has  a  tetrastyle  por- 
tico, but  the  order  is  the 
same,  and  the  general  air 
of  sober  understanding 
that  each  structure  betrays 
certainly  suggests  that  one 
was  directly  inspired  from 
the  other,  even  if  different 
architects  were  employed 
on  the  two  mansions.  In 
both  of  these  houses,  and 
also  in  the  McAlpin  city- 
house,  the  architect  has 
used  the  order  of  the 
Temple  of  the  Winds  at 
Athens,  and  at  Nashville, 
where  the  columns  are  set 
in  antis,  the  portico  has  a 
somewhat  Egyptian  air, 
which  is  well  carried  out  by 
the  broad  wall-spaces 
about  it.  It  is  rather  sin- 
gular that  with  such  good  examples  —  for  the  capital  of  the 
Temple  of  the  Winds  is  a  very  graceful  one — within  reach, 

and  widely  known  because  of 
the  many  visitors  to  General 
Jackson's  house,  this  order 
was  not  more  frequently 
used.  One  would  think  that 
the  general  refinement  of  the 
Colonial  work  would  have  led 
to  an  appreciation  of  the 
elegance    of    this    particular 


Old  Vrou^ht  IronwSrK 


1  L'ExFANT.  —  Besides  pre- 
paring the  design  for  Robert 
Morris's  great  house,  L'Enfant 
was  the  architect  of  a  house  in 
Philadelphia,  built  for  Nichol- 
son, Morris's  partner  and  also 
Treasurer  of  the  State  of  I'enn- 
sylvania.      The     Nicholson 

house,  which  cost  f  50,000,  has  recendy  been  sold  for  use  as  a 
Jewish  Orphanage. 

*"The  Hkkmitaof,"  Nashvii.lk,  Te.sx.  —  (leneral  Jackson 
built  this  house  in  1S19.  It  was,  liowever,  partially  burned  in 
1S35,  butwas  rebuilt  in  that  and  the  following  year.  It  is  now 
in  the  charge  of  the  Ladies'  Hermitage  Association  and  is  essen- 


iVovTUenc*,  "?-!■ 


tially  a  musc-uin  of  Jacksoniana. 
(ieneral  Jackson,  who  died  in 
the  liouse,  was,  after  the  fashion 
of  the  day,  buried  in  the  front 
yard.     Plate  44,  Part  XII. 

s  Plates  43-44,  Part  XII. 
*  See  cut,  page  95. 

'TtiE  Poi.K  Maxsiox.  —  This  house  was  not  built  for,  but  pur- 
chased by.  President  Polk  from  the  Dickson  family,  to  tlie  descend- 
ants of  wliicli  tlie  jjroperty  has  now  reverted.  President  Polk's 
tomb,  also,  stands  in  the  yard. 

opiate  43,  Part  XII. 


no 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


order,  but  for  some  reasons  its  merits  were  disregarded  and      the    shadow    effect    is    lost    and    no    proper  drip  is  formed, 
fashion  turned  in  the  direction  of  the  more  elaborate  and  far  Even   in  the  case  of  such  a  mansion  as  "  Arlington,"  best 


less  satisfactory  order  of  the 
Choragic  Monument  of  Lysi- 
crates,  which  seems  to  have 
been  a  general  favorite.  In 
the  Jonathan  Childs  house, 
Rochester,  N.  Y.,  we  find  the 
capital  of  this  order  reproduced 
with  great  exactness,  while  in 
certain  cases  in  the  South  we 
have  noted  that  certain  simpli- 
fications—  not  always  the 
same  —  have  been  introduced, 
which  seem  to  show  that  either 
the  designer  felt  he  was  exer- 
cising a  permissible  license  or 
else  that  the  workmen  were  not  as  well  skilled  in  following 
drawings  as  were  the  mechanics  of  the  Northern  States, 
The  latter  is  prob- 
ably the  most  plausi- 
ble explanation,  for 
on  every  side  we 
find  little  ungram- 
matical  variations 
which  could  hardly 
have  been  inten- 
tional on  the  part  of 
a  competent  de- 
signer, but  are  ob- 
viously the  over- 
sights that  an  unlet- 
tered copyist  or  an 
unskilled  mechanic 
would  be  guilty  of. 
Thus,  we  find 
Roman  Doric  bases 
needlessly  obtrud- 
ing themselves  be- 
neath a  Grecian  Doric  shaft  where  no  base  at  all  was  needed, 
and,  again,  a  Grecian  Doric  shaft  crowned  simply  by  a  square 
abacus  with  no  echinus  below 
it,  this  shaft,  too,  setting  upon 
a  square  plinth  of  the  same 
size  and  thickness  as  the  abacus 
at  the  top  so  that  the  column 
might  be  turned  end  for  end 
without  altering  the  effect  — 
and  it  is  curious  that  the  effect 
is  really  very  Grecian,  after  all. 
In  another  case*  where  the 
masonry  shaft  was  heavily 
coated  with  stucco  —  quite  after 
the  Grecian  manner  —  the 
mason,  in  endeavoring  to  indi- 
cate the  hypotrachelium,  or 
gorgerin,  or  whatever  is  the 
right  name  for  the  incised  lines 
which  in  the  Greek  Doric  play 
somewhat  the  part  that  the 
astragal  plays  in  the  Roman 
orders,  made  a  very  broad  in- 


Sproull  Homestead,  near  Cartersville,  Ga. 


Etowah  Heights/*  Etowah  River,  Ca. 


known  now  as  the  home  of 
General  Robert  K.  Lee,  but 
originally  built,  in  1802,  by 
George  Washington  Parke 
Custis,  the  grandson  of  Martha 
Washington,  a  building^  de- 
signed with  much  care  and  in- 
tended, so  far  as  the  portico 
goes,  to  repeat  the  Temple  of 
Theseus  at  Athens,  we  find  that 
the  designer  did  not  thoroughly 
know  the  style.  It  is  true  that 
the  portico  is,  like  its  original's, 
hexastyle  and  the  ponderous 
shafts  have  no  bases,  but  rest 
properly  on  a  simple  stylobate  ;  but  it  is  equally  true  that 
the  shafts  have  no  cannellations   [the   dictionaries  do  not 

recognize  this  word, 
^JTT]  but  it  is  just  as  good 
and  useful  as  the 
verb  "  cannelate  " 
that  they  do  admit], 
and  the  frieze  has 
been  given  Roman 
in  place  of  Grecian 
t  r  igl  yphs.  It  is 
such  little  gram- 
matical slips  as 
these  that,  although 
they  make  the  purist 
sniff  scornfully, 
really  add  to  the 
interest  of  the 
Southern  work,  for 
it  is  really  only  by 
taking  liberties  with 
time-hallowed  pre- 
cept and  established  practice  that  changes  are  made  and  im- 
provements, possibly,  brought  about.  There  is  no  more  pro- 
priety for  scorning  the  authors 
of  such  vagaries  as  these  than 
there  is  reason  for  condemning 
them  for  taking  liberties  with 
the  proportions  of  their  orders, 
and  recklessly  disregarding 
Vignola's  admonitions  that  a 
Corinthian  column  should  have 
only  ten  diameters  for  its  height. 
The  Southern  planter  needed 
verandas,  covered  ones,  and 
partly  for  economy's  sake  and 
more  because  it  was  the  fashion 
of  the  hour  wanted  his  porticos 
to  protect  two  stories,  but  when 
he  found  that  if  he  did  what 
Vignola  told  him  to  do,  the 
floor-space  would  be  needlessly 
taken  up  by  huge  shafts  that 
really  supported  no  weight  at 
all,  and  that  his  house  would 


3^^r- 


f-:-^7^  '^^^ 


Veranda  of  the  Sproull  Homestead,  near  Cartersville,  Ga. 

cision   all   around   the   shaft    with   the  point  of  his  trowel,      look  more  like  a  temple  than  a  house,  he  decided  to  give  his 
but  unfortunately  held   its   blade   the   wrong   way,   so  that      columns   just  such  proportions  as   suited   his  problem,  no 


'See  cut  of  IlanscU  House,  Kosewcll,  Ga.,  page  96. 


Tlate  20,  Part  XII. 


THE  GREEK  REVIVAL  AND  SOME  OTHER    THINGS. 


1 1 1 


i, 

i 

^f^'   f* 

•■:      1  ^ 

mm. 

■Mifspmiaiiii^^a 

»'- 

"  -^^L^^d.  w  Garden,     near  Au^iusta,  Ga  ^ 

matter  what  the  books  said.     So  if,  as  at  "  Etowah  Heights,"     ticularly  attractive,  because  it  so  clearly  suggests  quiet  do- 
on  the  Etowah  River,  Georgia,  the  place  of  the  Stovall-SIiell- 
man  families,  we  find  columns  of  great  attenuation,  we  ftel 
merely  that  the  practical  problem  of  daily  needs  has  been 
solved.     Here  at  "  Etowah  Heights  "  another  difficulty  was 
overcome,  with  some  success  and  much  ingenuity.     It  was  ob- 
vious that  it  would  never  do  to  crown  such  lofty  shafts  with 
a  simple  Doric  capital,  the 
height   demanded   at  least 
Corinthian  treatment ;   and 
evidently  the  working  out 
of    a   Corinthian   cap   was 
beyond  the  capacity  of  any 
of    the    workmen.     But    a 
satisfactory  compromise 
was  reached  by  building  a 
bell,  octagonal  in  plan,  out 
of   a   series   of    mouldings 
and  crowning  them  all  with 
a  square  abacus.     The  re- 
sult is  a  capital  that  at   a 
distance  serves  well  enough 
as  a  Corinthian  cap,  while 
it  is  only  a  near  view  that 
brings  to  light  that  it  is  an 
architectural   hybrid,   sired 

by  Corinthian,  dammed  by  Perpendicular.     It  is  certainly  an 
ingenious  solution  and  one  that  serves  a  capital  purpose. 

It    is    such    pieces    of    architectural    nanett    that    make 
much  of  the  Southern  work  interesting,  but  they  mark,  too, 
a  falling  away  in  delicacy  of  perception  from  the  work  that 
was  done  in  the  eighteenth  century  along  the  banks  of  the 
Virginia  rivers.     It   is   almost  certain   that  one  could   not 
find  anywhere  in  Virginia  such  a  florid  piece  of  work  as 
"  Belle  Grove,"'  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Iberville 
Parish,  La.,  the  home  of  an  obviously  wealthy  sugar-planter, 
built,  it  is  said,  "shortly  after 
the  Revolution."    Anything 
more   unlike  what  one's   pre- 
conception  of  what   a   sugar- 
planter's  house  of  those  days 
might  be  expected  to  look  like 
could  hardly  be  encountered. 
For,  in  truth,  the  typical  "plan- 
ter's house  of  that  region,  of 
direct   West    Indian    and,   so, 
Spanish   derivation,  is   to   be 
found  in  such  houses  as 
"  Home  Place,"  "  in  St.  Charles 
Parish,  La.,  the  home  of   tiie 
Haydel    family,    and    "  Beau- 
voir,''*  at   Biloxi,  Miss.,   long 
the  home  of  Jefferson  Davis, 
and    now   transferred   to    the 
ownership  of  the  Sons  of  Con- 
federate Veterans,  to  be  maintained  as  a  home  for  indigent 
Confederate  soldiers.     This  type  of  one-story  house  is  par- 


Fairfax  County  Court-house,  Fairfax,  Va, 


M'late  1 6,  I'art  .\II. 
»  Plate  3,  Part  XII. 
'Plate  20,  Part  XII. 


•Plate  4,  Part  XII. 
*  Plate  14,  Part  XII. 
20,  Part  .\1I.  6  Plate  15,  Part  XII. 

'  •'  Meadow  Garden  "  is  now  preserved  by  the  Walton  Memorial 
Association  as  a  memorial  of  Georj^e  Walton,  a  si<;iier  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  who  in  tlie  cider  part  of  the  sim])Ie 
structure  entertained  George  Washington  in  1791. 

»  CoURT-Housi  s. —  Fairfax  County  Court-house,  in  Fairfax, 
Va.,  is  a  rather  typical  puljlic  building  of  the  pre-RevoIutionary 


mesticity,  and  not  the  pomp  and  parade  to  be  looked  for  in 
houses  whose  exteriors  declare  that  they  contain  abundant 
guest-chambers  and  elaborate  rooms  of  ceremony.  Yet,  that 
the  assurance  of  a  spacious  welcome,  as  it  were,  may  be  in- 
dicated without  sacrificing  the  promise  of  domestic  comfort 
is  satisfactorily  proved  by  such  houses  as  "  Dunleith,"  ■*  built 

early  in  the  last  century  by 
General    Dahlgren,    near 
Natchez,    Miss.      That 
"  Dunleith "   is    the    legiti- 
mate development    of    the 
type  expressed  by  "  Beau- 
voir"is  obvious  at  a  glance, 
and  the  house,  in  spite  of 
the  presence  of  the  unfortu- 
nate   dormer    windows, 
added  by  a  later  owner,  is 
a   very   perfect    and    satis- 
factory   specimen     of     the 
home  of  a  wealthy  planter 
in  the  far  South.     It  is  in- 
teresting, too,  as  a  "  rever- 
sion to  type,"  expressing,  as 
it  does,   a   complete  revolt 
against    the    Greek   in- 
fluence :    it  comes   much   nearer  achieving  the  gracility  of 
the  real  Colonial  work  than  does  "  Montebello,"  ^  the  home 
of  the   Shields  family,  which  also  stands  near  Natchez,  or 
"  Burnside,""  a  Louisiana  sugar-planter's  house  on  the  banks 
of   the    Mississippi,   built   by  a  Colonel    Preston   of    South 
Carolina.     These  three  mansions  have  about  as  much  dig- 
nity, propriety  and  real  architectural  character  as  any  01  e 
could   desire,    if    one    consents   to    accept    the    second-story 
galleries  as  domestic   necessities,   and  hence,  as  they  satisfy 
real  requirement,  that  they  have  sufficient  architectural  pro- 
priety to  escape  challenge  for 
illiteracy.     It   is    to  be  noted 
that  the  owner  of  "Dunleiih" 
seems  to  have  had  misgivings 
on  this  head,  and  in  place  of 
using  the  usual  wooden  balus- 
trade for  the  upper-gallery  rail- 
ing, has   sought   not    to   mar 
the  effect   of    his   colonnades 
by   using    light   iron   railings, 
painted    black    so    as    to   be 
practically  invisible  from  a  dis- 
tance.    The    floors   of    such 
upper  galleries  do  not  of  con- 
structive necessity  cut  athwart 
the  columns,  for  the  sake  of 
getting    a    bearing    on    them  ; 
the   floors    were    carried    out 
to  the  columns  because  of  the 
desire  to  secure  more  floor-space.     The  proof  of  this  is  to  be 
found  in  those  houses  which  have  the  second-story  gallery 

period,  but  it  is  more  interesting  because  of  its  association  with 
the  Civil  War,  as  it  was  in  the  field  of  military  operations,  and 
was  at  times  in  the  possession  of  tlie  Federal  troops,  and,  again, 
in  the  occupancy  of  tlie  Confederates.  An  attenijn  lias  recently 
been  made  to  have  it  transformed  into  an  historical  museum,  with 
Georije  Washington's  will  as  its  cliiefest  treasure. 

Tlie  Court-liouse  at  Cliester,  Pa.,  which  was  built  in  1724,  has 
now  a  misleading  air  of  quaintness,  since  tlie  jiresent  spirelet- 
crowned  tower,  wliich  gives  the  building  its  character,  is  a  modern 
atfair  and  replaces  the  original  belfry. 


112 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


extending  to  hardly  more  than  half  the  width  of  the  lower 
one,  the  floor  being  supported  by  a  system  of  concealed 
cantilevers,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Sproull  house,'  nearCarters- 
ville,  Ga.,  a  house  which  is  interesting  because  of  being  one 
of  the  comparatively  small  number  where  the  Ionic  order 
is  used. 

While  the  West  Indian  type  of  house  with  its  flattish  hip- 
roof is  certainly  distinctive  of  Southern  architecture,  there  is 
a  variation  of  the  normal  cottage  type,  common  to  all  parts 
of  the  country,  which  is  also  distinctively  Southern.  In 
these  alliance  is  made  between  the  rather  steep  pitched 
roofs  and  the  supporting  columns  —  of  often  needless  robust- 
ness—  in  so  natural  a  manner  that  no  protest  is  elicited.  A 
perfect  specimen  of  this  class  was  "  Concord,"  before  it  was 
destroyed  ;  but  there  are  others  built  at  various  dates,  but 
all  belonging  to  the  same  species.  Mrs.  Wilson's  house, 
"  Ashlands,"-  near  Mobile,  Ala.,  is  merely  one  of  the  class 
where  due  regard  for  the  precedents  of  the  type  has  been  ob- 
served.  "  Inglehurste,"' ^ 
however,  built  near  Macon, 
Ga.,  early  in  the  nineteenth 
century,  shows  how  the 
passion  for  columnar  effects 
has  overstepped  propriety. 
Thanks  to  the  luxuriant 
grace  of  plants  and  vines, 
the  fact  that  these  heavy 
brick  piers  nowhere  sup- 
port anything  but  a  light 
wooden  roof  is  well  dis- 
guised, and  one  is  aware 
merely  of  a  delightfully 
homelike  and  picturesque 
effect.  This  house  is  ab- 
solutely native  of  the  soil  ; 
built  with  timber  grown 
upon  and  bricks  burned 
upon  the  place  by  the  labor  of  slaves,  it  is  because  of  these 
things  all  the  more  cherished  by  its  owners  and  regarded 
with  interest  by  strangers. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  houses  to  be  found  in  the  South 
is  "  Edgewood,"  *  near  Edgefield,  S.  C,  interesting  because  it 
resumes  in  itself  almost  all  of  the  characteristics  to  which 
attention  has  been  directed  ;  and  tha  fact  that  they  are  shown 
in  this  house,  once  the  home  of  Governor  Francis  W. 
Pickens,^  in  a  somewhat  debased  form,  seems  to  indicate  that 
it  was  recognized  tiiat  the  full  expression  of  the  type-form  had 
been  reached.  Here  we  have  a  modest  structure,  intended  for 
use  as  an  ordinary  dwelling,  rambling  over  the  ground  with 
true  Southern  disregard  of  space  till  the  front  spans  a  length 
of  full  forty  yards.  In  the  elevation  of  the  first  floor  above 
the  ground  and  the  absence  of  rooms  at  the  ground  level,  we 
find  a  reminder  of  West  Indian  derivation,  while  the  division 
into  main-house,  wing-pavilions  and  connecting-galleries  is 
distinctly  marked.  That  the  architecture  is  Colonial  is  told 
not  only  by  the  attempted,  and  to  a  good  degree  successful, 
refinement  of  the  mouldings  of  the  main  portico  and  the 
decoration  of  the  front  of  the  raking  cornice,  but  most  of  all 
by  the  artistic  feeling  that  dictated  the  cutting  away  of  the 


'  See  cut,  pajje  i  lo. 
3  Plate  II,  i'art  X!I. 


■^  Plate  13,  I'art  XII. 

*  Plates  10-12,   Plates  XII. 


'Governor  of  South  Carolina  during  the  Civil  War,  1S61-65. 
A  very  pleasant  explanation  is  jjiven  for  the  extreme  lateral  elonga- 
tion of  this  house,  an  explanation  which  quite  comports  with  the 
courteous  hospitality  of  the  Southern  gentleman.     It  is  said  that 


architrave  in  a  series  of  elliptical  arches.  In  the  flat  pedi- 
ments of  the  wing  pavilions  we  find  traces  of  the  influence 
of  the  Greek  Revival,  while  in  the  caps  and  bases  of  the 
columns  of  these  pavilions  we  find  the  sort  of  naive  imita- 
tions of  the  proper  forms  that  a  colored  carpenter  might  be 
expected  to  produce.  And  then,  over  and  beyond  all,  the 
long  and  roomy  veranda  is  provided  as  the  prime  desidera- 
tum. The  whole  structure  makes  so  charming  and  attrac- 
tive a  composition  that  one  can  afford  to  forget  that  in- 
accuracies and  imperfections  of  workmanship  exist. 

A  very  satisfactory  knowledge  of  Colonial  architecture 
might  be  acquired  through  a  study  of  the  older  collegiate 
buildings  of  the  country,  more  of  which  are  standing  than 
is  generally  suspected.  Besides  the  "academy"  buildings 
that  are  still  to  be  found  in  many  New  England  towns, 
which,  in  type,  do  not  vary  much  from  the  belfried  court- 
houses of  the  same  date,  there  is  a  considerable  number  of 
dormitories,  chapels  and  halls  that  were  built  for  the  larger 

institutions  of  learning  that 
give  interesting  lessons  in 
proportion  and  sobriety  of 
decorative  treatment.  Like 
her  older  buildings,  Har- 
vard will  probably  always 
cherish  Bulfinch's  "Univer- 
sity Hall,"  and  Rutgers 
College,  at  New  Bruns- 
wick, N.  J.,  will  doubtless, 
in  the  same  way,  preserve 
"  Queen's  Building,"  de- 
signed by  John  McComb. 
William  and  Mary,  at 
Williamsburg,  Va. ;  St. 
John's,  at  Annapolis  ;  the 
University  of  Virginia,  at 
Charlottesville,  and  the 
University  of  North  Caro- 
lina, at  Chapel  Hill,  all  these  and  others  of  the  elder  col- 
leges have  still  in  use  and  in  good  preservation  many  in- 
teresting buildings  which  are  true  specimens  of  Old  Colonial 
architecture,  and  it  would  be  interesting,  some  time,  to  group 
them  all  together. 

But,  interesting  as  the  later  houses  are,  they  are  to  be 
regarded  rather  as  marking  the  transition  from  the  dignified 
Colonial  work  to  the  utterly  undignified  eclectic  work  of  the 
present  day.  If  there  is  any  lesson  to  be  drawn  from  the  il- 
lustrations in  this  publication  it  is  that  a  too  free  use  of 
applied  decorations  can  be  as  fatal  to  a  fine  piece  of  archi- 
tecture as  overdressing  can  be  fatal  to  the  asserted  gentility 
of  a  woman,  and  many  a  good  design  in  the  Colonial  style 
has  in  these  latter  days  been  made  simply  tawdry  by  the 
mistaken  application  of  moulded  decorations  in  superabun- 
dance. Generally  speaking,  the  Northern  designer  in  the 
eighteenth  century  showed  more  reserve,  a  greater  sympathy 
with  the  style,  a  keener  appreciation  of  delicacy  than  did  his 
Southern  brother.  To  the  writer's  way  of  thinking,  the  much- 
praised  interiors  of  the  Miles  Brewton  house,  in  Charleston, 
are  far  less  satisfactory  than  many  interiors  to  be  found  in 
Salem,  Mass.,   Portsmouth,   N.   H.,  and  Providence,   R.   I. 

Governor  Pickens  could  not  sleep  comfortably  if  he  knew  there 
was  a  guest  slieltering  beneath  his  roof  who  had  been  obliged, 
because  of  the  presence  of  other  guests,  to  put  up  with  a  rear 
chamber;  therefore,  he  built  his  house  so  that  all  members  of  the 
household  and  all  guests  must  have  front  rooms  —  there  being  no 
back  ones.     The  story  is  too  pretty  to  be  questioned. 


THE  GREEK  REVIVAL   AND   SOME   OTHER    THINGS. 


"3 


Generally  speaking,  this  too  lavish  use  of  applied  decoration 
is  to  be  taken  as  a  sign  of  the  decadence,  a  proof  that  the 
building  was  erected  after,  rather  than  before,  the  Revolu- 
tion ;  but  that  it  is  not  always  safe  to  rely  on  such  an 
inference  is  shown  by  the  ceilings^  at  "  Kenmore,"  in 
Fredericksburg,  Va.  If  there  ever  was  a  case  of  over- 
elaboration  this  is  certainly  one,  and  the  observer  might  well 
be  excused  for  thinking 
that  the  redundancy  and 
repetition,  and,  above  all, 
the  geometrical  quality  of 
the  general  composition, 
proved  satisfactorily  that 
the  work  and  the  building 
were  late  in  date.  But 
local  legend  satisfactorily 
accounts  for  and  excuses 
this  over-elaboration,  and 
the  fact  that  "  Kenmore," 
was  built  by  Colonel  Field- 
ing Lewis  to  please  his 
wife,  Betty,  the  only  sister 
of  General  Washington, 
tends  to  prove  that  it  be- 
longs in  time  with  the 
group  of  notable  Virginia 
mansions  on  the  James. 
The  story  is  that  these 
ceilings,  overmantels,  etc., 
are  the  work  of  certain  Hessian  prisoners  of  war  wlio  were 
quartered  in  the  house  and  probably  were  delighted  to  find 
an  agreeable  occupation  during  their  enforced  idleness,  and 
probably  welcomed  the  money,  which  was  unquestionably 
paid  them,  for  their  labor  as  a  means  of  providing,  possibly, 
certain  delicacies  for  their  mess  or  warmer  clothing  for 
winter  wear.  Since  the  mere  occupation  of  idle  hours  was 
their  chief  object,  it  was  natural  that  the  general  scheme 


accounted  for,  wliile  the  certain  lack  of  refinement  and 
the  geometrical  quality  of  the  design  may  be  placed  to  the 
credit  of  the  Teutonic  understanding  of  grace. 

"  Kenmore  "  itself  has  the  appearance  of  being  only  a  part 
of  an  uncompleted  whole,  and  considering  the  standing  of 
the  family,  it  is  likely  that  Colonel  Lewis  intended  to  build  a 
more  elaborate  house  than  this,  and  possibly  the  usual  wing- 
pavilions  were  to  be  built 
later,  giving  the  house 
finally  the  general  effect  of 
"  Woodlawn,"  '^  near  Mount 
Vernon,  designed  by  Dr. 
Thornton,'  and  for  Nellie 
Custis  when  she  married 
Lawrence  Lewis,  the  son 
of  Col.  Fielding  Lewis  and 
Washington's  sister,  Betty. 
There  is  a  certain  simil- 
arity between  the  two 
houses,  and  because  of  it 
we  may  surmise  that "  Ken- 
more," too,  may  possibly 
be  one  of  Dr.  Thornton's 
houses,  though  it  is,  of 
course,  possible  that  Nellie 
Custis  knew  all  about  the 
house  her  father  had 
meant  to  build  and  so 
urged  Dr.  Thornton  to 
make  the  home  of  her  married  life  like  that  which  her  child- 
hood's home  might  have  been.  Otherwise  the  heavy  brick 
arcade  is  a  meaningless  and  expensive  freak.  The  arcade 
itself  is  unusual,  as,  with  the  exception  of  Mount  Vernon, 
we  can  recall  no  other  instance  of  a  Colonial  house  where 
an  arcade  is  introduced,  although  it  was  used  in  churches 
and  in  public  buildings,  as  at  Hanover  Court  House,  Fair- 
fax Court  House  and  others.     But  in  houses  the  use  of  the 


The  Major  Duncan  House,  Paris,  Ky.    [About  irp\ 

should  be  so  planned  as  to  consume  the  greatest  number  of 
hours'  work,  and  thus  the  unneeded  quantity  is  satisfactorily 

>  Plates  25-6,  Part  XII. 
•  Plates  20,  22-26,  Part  VL 

•Thornton,  Dr.  William.  —  Born  on  the  Island  of  Tortola, 
W.  I.,  1 761.  Educated  in  England  and,  in  medicine,  Scotland. 
In  1793  moved  to  Washington,  D.  C,  and  there  resided  until  liis 
death  in  1S2S.  He  was,  in  1794,0110  of  the  Commissioners  a])- 
pointed  by  Washington  to  survey  tlie  District  of  Columbia,  and 
held  the  position  until  it  was  abolished  in  1802.  He  later  became 
Superintendent  of  Patents,  and  lield  tlie  office  up  to  the  time  of 


"  Federal  Hill,"  Bardslown,  Ky.*    [1795-] 

arcade  is  only  approximated  by  now  and  then  introducing 
round  arches  in  the  porches,  as  at  "Crewe  Hall,"  Malvern 

his  death.  In  addition  to  his  desijjn  for  tlie  United  States  Capitol, 
accepted  April  15,  1793,  he  prepared  a  design  for  tlie  i'resident's 
Mansion.  In  tlie  way  of  private  practice  as  arcliitect,  he  desisjned 
"  Montpelier,"  Orange  Co.,  \'a.,  for  James  Madison  ;  the  "  Octagon, 
House,"  Washington,  for  Jolin  Tayloc  ;  tlie  "Tudor  House," 
Georgetown,  D.  C,  and  a  few  olliers. 

^The  homestead  of  the  Rowan  family.  Tlie  song  "  Mv  Old 
Kentucky  Home"  was  written  in  this  liouse  by  .Stephen  Collins 
Foster. 


114 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Hill,  Va. ;  "  Gunston  Hall,"  on  the  Potomac,  "  Mount  Airy," 
on  the  Rappahannock,  etc. 

While,  as   a   rule,  the   eighteenth-century   Virginia   man- 
sions were  built  of  brick  or  wood,  some  were  built  of  stone, 

as,  for   instance,   the    Hite 

house,  in  Winchester,  Va., 
and,  the  most  noted  example 
of  all,  "  Mount  Airy,"  '  on 
the  Rappahannock,  the 
home  of  the  Tayloes.  Here 
the  portico  has  an  arcade  of 
three  arches,  and  the  gal- 
leries connecting  the  main 
house  with  the  wing  pavil- 
ions are  semicircular  in  plan, 
as  are  the  similar  galleries 
at  "  Mount  Vernon."  Taken 
in  connection  with  its  set- 
ting and  its  formal  garden, 
"  Mount  Airy  "  is  one  of  the 
choicest  specimens  of  Col- 
onial architecture. 

Stone  was  not  infrequently 
used  elsewhere,  particularly 
in  Pennsylvania, by  the 
Germans,  and  in  the  Major  Duncan  house,  Paris,  Ky.,  we 
find  an  interesting  example,  first,  because  it  is  built  of  stone 


The  Rufus  Greene  Coach-house,  Providence,  R.  1. 


acter  shows  how  strong  a  hold  the  style  had  on  the  people 
that,  at  that  time,  in  a  new  settlement  so  far  inland  as 
Paris,  such  a  house  should  have  been  built.  As  might  be 
supposed,  its  forms  and  details  are  based  on  reminiscences 
and  so  are  somewhat  sim- 
plified and  ungrammatical, 
as  might  be  expected 
when  neither  designer  nor 
mechanic  could  drive 
over  to  look  at  the  next 
house  and  see  "just  how 
the  thing  ought  to  be  done." 
This  house  and  "  Federal 
Hitt,"  at  Bardstown,  Ky.,^ 
give  grounds  for  believing 
that  the  Kentucky  towns 
along  the  Cumberland  Road 
are  deserving  of  investiga- 
tion by  whoever  next  under- 
takes to  consider  Colonial 
architecture. 

If  one  were  to  trust  to  in- 
ferences and  resemblances, 
it  might  be  proper  to  ven- 
ture the  supposition  that 
there  should  be  included  in  the  list  of  houses  which  were  either 
designed  by  Jefferson,  or  whose  design  was  affected  by  his  ad- 


coated  with  rough-cast,  and,  next,  because  its  Colonial  char-      vice,  the  very  refined  mansion  '  known  as  "  Woodlands  "  that 


'  I'lates  22-23,  '''i''t  ^II- 
"See  tut,  page  1 13. 


» I'lates  I,  2S-30,  Part  XII. 

*  liy  permission  of  Frank  Cousins. 


THE   GREEK  REVIVAL   AND   SOME   OTHER    THING S. 


"5 


(S^tfr't 


now  stands  in  Fairmount  Park,  Philadelphia.  But  there  is 
on  the  whole  a  more  subtile  indication  of  delicacy  of  feeling 
on  the  part  of  the  designer  of  "  Woodlands  "  '  than  is  to 
be  found  in  "  Monticello," "  Jefferson's  own  house,  or  in 
"  Montpellier,"''  which,  though  designed  for  his  friend  James 
Madison  by  Dr.  Thor- 
ton,  was  affected  by 
Jefferson's  advice,  so  it 
is  best  not  to  force  the 
facts,  and  we  can  but 
regret  that  the  author  of 
so  good  a  piece  of  work 
must  remain  nameless 
till  chance  brings  the 
proper  record  to  light. 
The  thoroughness  with 
which  the  designer 
practised  his  calling  is 
shown  by  the  evident 
attention  he  paid  to  the 
stable,*which,  while  un- 
questionably merely  a 
stable,  is  none  the  less 
surely  a  piece  of  architecture.  In  fact,  the  thesis  that  the 
best  of  the  Colonial  work  was  designed  by  trained  archi- 
tects could  be  upheld 
on  the  evidence  of  the 
stables  and  out  build- 
ings attached  to  —  in 
a  literal  sense,  often  — 
Colonial  houses  in 
the  Northern  States : 
witness  this  stable  at 
"Woodlands,"  the  Nich- 
ols stable*  in  Salem, 
and  a  host  of  others. 
It  is  useless  to  look  for 
work  of  the  class  in  the 
Southern  States  farther 
South  than  Northern 
Virginia,  since  the 
milder  climate  de- 
manded less  substantial 

protection  for  horses  and  cattle,  and  so  did  not  compel 
the  attention  of  the  designer  to  the  same  degree.  Even 
at  "Mount  Vernon"  the 
stables  and  carriage-houses 
have  a  severely  utilitarian 
rather  than  architectural  char- 
acter. 

The  catholicity  of  taste  and 
the  universality  of  knowledge 
on  the  part  of  men  of  educa- 
tion in  those  days  is,  per- 
haps, enough  to  account  for 
the  architectural  quality  of  the 
buildings  erected  at  a  time 
when  there  were  so  few  who 
practised  architecture  as  a 
profession.  Evidence  of  this 
is  found  in  the  case  of 
Joseph  Brown,  of  Providence, 
an  iron-founder  and  merchant,  brother  of  one  of  the  founders 


The  Mclntire  Garrison,  York,  Me.     [1623.] 


Tbc  Old  Jail  •  York  .Mair^ti  -  i65>- 


of  what  is  now  Brown  University,  and  himself  one  of  the 
trustees  of  the  college  and  its  Professor  of  Experimental 
Philosophy.  In  association  with  James  Sumner  in  1774  he 
designed  the  First  Baptist  Church '  in  Providence,  built 
largely   by  the  labor  of  Boston    mechanics  thrown   out  of 

employment  by  the 
closing  of  the  Port  of 
Boston.  Fie  also  de- 
signed, in  1774,  his  own 
house 'on  South  Main 
Street,  now  occupied  by 
the  Providence  National 
]5ank,  a  house  whose 
peculiar  curved  pedi- 
ment, or  gable,  seems 
to  have  been  suggested 
by  the  broad  gambrel 
roof,  such  as  that  to  be 
seen  in  a  street  nearby, 
which  was  not  uncom- 
mon at  the  time.  With 
Stephen  Hopkins  he 
designed  and  built  the 
Town  Market-house,  now  the  Board  of  Trade  Buildino- 
and  besides  these  designed  for  his  brother  John  the  house 

built  in  1788  at  the 
corner  of  Power  and 
Benefit  Streets,  at  pres- 
ent known  as  the 
Brown-Gammell  house.' 
This  house  it  was  our 
purpose  to  illustrate  as 
the  type  of  the  Colonial 
city  house  after  the 
style  had  reached  its 
fullest  expression.  Un- 
fortunately, the  estate 
has  recently  changed 
hands  and,  at  the  mo- 
ment, the  building  is 
surrounded  wiih  scaf- 
.         -  '       folding,  the  new  owner 

having  the  purpose  to 
put  the  building  into  the  most  perfect  repair  and  to  restore 
it  absolutely  to  its  original  condition.     This  will  not  be  a 

difficult  task,  as  the  house 
has  always  remained  in  the 
use  of  descendants  of  John 
Brown,  people  of  taste,  abun- 
dant means,  and  a  proper 
respect  for  the  work  of  their 
ancestor. 

The  Brown-Gammell  house 
belongs  to  a  class  of  city 
house  which  once  had  its 
congeners  in  Boston,  and  still 
has  them  in  Salem,"  Mass., 
Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  and 
Annapolis,"  Md.,  but  it  is 
rather  distinctively  a  New 
England  type. 

The    name    Gorgeana  — 
once  .Agamenticus,  and  now  York,  Me.,  —  and  the  fact  that  it 


The  Minot  House,  Concord,  MasS' 


»  Plates  1,28-30,  Part  XII. 
•Plate  21,  Part  XII. 
•  -See  cut,  page  1 14. 


»  Plates  8-1 1,  Part  IX. 
<  Plate  30,  Part  XII. 
•Plate  4S,  Part  XII. 


'  Plate  39,  Part  XII. 
»  Plates  13,  16,  Part  VII. 


8  Plates  37-38,  Part  XII. 
">  See   cut    of    Cliase    house, 
pa,i;e  59,  Vol.  II. 


ii6 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


s  sometimes  miswritten  "  Georgiana  "  is  not  unlikely  to  lead 
the  enquirer  into  Old  Colonial  architecture  to  think  that  in- 
vestigaiion  in  that  quarter  would  be  likely  to  bring  to  light 
some  treasure  of  Free-Classic  work.  But  the  place-name 
and  the  place  itself  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  Georges  and 
their  times,  and  the  town  has  less  interest  for  the  architect 
than  for  the  historian,  for  whom  it  will  recall  the  story  of 
Plymouth  Colony  and  the  attempt  of  the  Lord  Proprietor, 
Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges,  to  establish  for  himself  a  dynastic 
monarchy  in  the  New  World.  Gorges  began  to  send  out  ad- 
venturers in  1606,  but  not  until  1616  was  anything  like  a  set- 
tlement established,  and  that  was  later  abandoned.  Gorges 
was  persistent,  however,  and  by  1642  there  was  enough  of 
a  settlement  on  the  Kennebec  to  make  it  worth  while  to 
secure  a  city  charter  for  the  town  of  Gorgeana,  now  York. 
The  town  has  its  architectural  interest,  however,  for  here 
stands,  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  one  of  the  oldest 
English-derived  buildings  in  the  country,  the  "  Mclntire 
Garrison  "  (a  title  which  it  shares  with  a  few  other  fortified 
houses  still  standing,  as  at  Newburyport,  Mass.),  a  two-story 
house'  of  considerable  size,  built  in  1623,  and  in  which,  as 
also  in  the  old  jail  now 
standing  and  built 
in  1653,  some 
part   of 


dozen."  Doors,  sashes,  mantels,  newels,  cornices,  mould- 
ings, there  they  all  were,  and  all  else  that  was  needed  was  a 
few  nails,  a  few  hours'  work,  and  then  you  had  something 
vastly  better  and  more  up-to-date  than  those  prim-looking 
houses  the  forefathers  used  to  build.  The  jig-saw  is  often 
singled  out  as  the  sole  cause  of  this  lamentable  vulgarization, 
but,  though  a  large,  it  was  far  from  being  the  only  offender. 
The  blundering,  brutal  activity  of  the  machine  and  the 
thoughtlessness  of  the  manufacturer,  in  combination,  created 
the  condition  which  lasted  up  to  the  Centennial  Exhibition 
of  1876,  at  which  time  it  began  to  dawn  on  people  whose 
artistic  perceptions  had  not  been  wholly  atrophied  that  it 
might  be  possible  to  depose  the  machine  from  its  position  as 
master,  and  reduce  it  to  its  proper  sphere  as  a  useful  servant ; 
and  with  the  perception  of  that  desirability  began  the  reju- 
venescence of  arts  of  all  kinds  which  has  been  so  phenom- 
enal a  feature  of  American  progress  in  civilization  in  the  last 
quarter  century. 

It  is  quite  probable  that  a  few 
years  from  now,  after  the  lately 
adopted  scheme  for  the  artistic  im- 


View  of  White  House,  Treasury  Building  and  Capitol,  before  the  recent  Restoration. 


the  townsmen  found  protection  at  the  time  of  the   French 
and  Indian  massacre  in  February,  1692. 

That,  having  before  them  the  thoroughly  good  and  refined 
buildings  that  were  so  common  at  the  close  of  the  eighteenth 
century,  the  people  of  this  country  should  have  allowed  their 
buildings  of  every  description  to  sink  to  the  level  of  debasing 
vulgarity  that  was  reached  in  the  third  quarter  of  the  last 
century  is  extraordinary,  but  is  far  from  being  unaccountable. 
The  natural  love  of  change  for  sheer  variety's  sake  had 
something  to  do  with  this  abandoning  of  the  safe  and  well- 
understood  methods;  perhaps,  even,  the  impending  popular 
clamor  for  an  "American  style  "  had  been  heard  murmuring 
in  the  distance,  but  neither  of  these  was  the  most  potent 
cause  :  this  lay  in  the  genius  of  the  race,  and  there  was  no 
escaping  from  it.  The  Yankee  was  created  to  invent  ma- 
chines, and,  giving  vent  to  his  passion.,  before  he  realized 
what  he  had  done  he  had  created  the  "  Epoch  of  the  Ready- 
made."  What  need  was  there,  then,  to  think  of  proportion, 
or  fitness,  or  propriety,  or  delicacy,  or  anything  of  that  sort? 
All  that  the  human  needs  of  the  day  coiuld  possibly  require 
was  to  be  found  in  the  next  shop,  and  to  be  bought  "by  the 

'See  cut,  page  1 15. 


provement  of  the  City  of  Wash- 
ington has  developed  somewhat,  and 
the  parkway  between  the  Capitol  and  the 
Memorial  Bridge  has  come  to  be  more  used, 
people  will  become  more  familiar  than  they  now 
are  with  the  south  front  of  the  "White  House" ' 
and  will  come  to  realize  that  the  south  front  is  the 
front  that  James  Hoban,  patterning  his  plan  after 
the  Virginia  fashion  of  fronting  the  house  upon 
the  river  highway,  intended  should  impress  and 
welcome  the  visitor  to  the  dwelling-place  of  the  Na- 
tion's ruler.  The  portico  on  the  north  front  is  of  a  later  time 
than  Hoban's,  and  as  it  has  a  certain  satisfactory  dignity  of 
its  own  and  is  in  reasonable  accord  with  Hoban's  work,  it  has 
for  many  years  successfully  dignified  the  north  front  and 
deluded  visitors  with  the  idea  that  they  were  approaching 
Hoban's  front  door  instead  of  actually  the  rear  one.  In  all 
probability,  the  renovations  and  alterations  in  and  about  the 
White  House  now  just  completed  will  be  voted  by  most  people 
to  be  satisfactory  and  successful,  and,  doubtless,  this  building 
now  expresses  very  much  what  Hoban  himself  might  have  done 
if  still  in  practice  to-day.  But  there  is  just  a  possibility  that 
the  White  House  to-day  is  no  more  like  the  White  House 
that  Hoban  had  in  mind  to  build  than  the  structure  which 
actually  housed  the  first  President  was  like  Leinster  House, 
near  Dublin,  which  is  said  to  have  inspired  Hoban's  design. 
As  the  object  of  these  investigations  has  been  to  discover 
and  point  out  types  rather  than  to  make  a  record,  however 
imperfect,  of  even  a  large  part  of  the  great  number  of  in- 
teresting buildings  still  extant,  —  but  for  a  large  part  easily 
reducible  to  a  few  groups  when  architecturally  considered,  — 
attention   should  be  directed  to  the  Vanderveer  house  in 

"Plate  46,  Part  XII.  ' 


THE  GREEK  REVIVAL   AND   SOME   OTHER    THINGS. 


117 


Flatbush,  Long  Island,  N.  Y.,  built  in  1798.  While  its 
Dutch  derivation  is  strongly  marked,  it  has  the  rather  un- 
usual interest  of  being  a  balanced  and 
symmetrical  composition,  a  main  build- 
ing* and  extensions,  or  wings,  upon 
either  side,  after  a  fashion  not  at  all 
common  at  the  North,  where  it  has 
been  rather  the  habit  to  extend  always 
in  one  direction,  until  at  length  the 
middle-class  houses '^  of  low  cost  crystal- 
lized into  what  may  be  called  the  tele- 
scopic type,  each  successive  addition 
being  smaller  than  the  last,  looking  as 
if  it  were  the  intention  that  all  should 
be  slid  together  and  sheltered  within 
the  main  structure  overnight.  The 
Bergen  Homestead,  at  Flatbush  Avenue 
and  the  Albemarle  Road,  in  the  same 
township,  is  a  much  older  building,  and 
belongs  to  an  earlier  phase  of  the 
Dutch  architecture  of  New  York  State. 
Kingston  is  another  New  York  town 
still  strongly  tinctured  with  Dutch  feel- 
ing, but  the  only  house  now  standing 
that  escaped  the  fire  set  by  the  British 
in  1777  is  the  Van  Steenbergh  house, 
although  the  Ten  Broeck  house,  built 
in  1676,  where,  later,  the  New  York 
Senate  first  assembled,  and  now  pur- 
chased and  cared  for  by  the  State  as 
an  "historical  monument,"  was  not 
much  injured  by  the  fire. 

It  is   doubtful   if  the  hurrying  New 
Yorker  ever  gives   to    Trinity  or    St. 
Paul's  churchyards  a  passing  thought, 
except  to  feel  irritation  at  the  idea  that 
any  people  can    be   so   little   worldly- 
wise  as  not  to  take  steps  to  get  hand- 
some incomes  from  such  costly 
building  sites.    Strangers,  having 
more  leisure  to  investigate,  know 
that  in  both  these  resting-places 


Southern  mortuary  art  offer.  The  plain  slate  slab  that  ac- 
cords so  soothingly  with  the  greens  and  grays  of  the  country 
churchyard  is  rather  the  type  at  the 
North,  and  while  the  lettering  is  often 
of  great  elegance,  the  death's  head 
or  cherub's  head,  with  palm  branches  or 
wings  and  a  border  of  conventional  leaf- 
age, that  in  varying  forms  are  used  as 
decorations  are  interesting  more  because 
they  are  archaic  than  because  they  are 
artistic.  A  large  part  of  their  interest- 
ing qualities  lies  in  their  curious,  amus- 
i  n  g  and  often  amazing  epitaphs.  In 
the  latter  class  is  found  to  be  faci/e 
princeps  one  in  the  Phipps  Street  Ceme- 
tery in  Charlestown,  Mass.,  which  de- 
clares that 


0%, 


GriTestone  at  Fort  Oriswold, 
Groton   Hei"hls,  Conn. 


HERE    LYES    IN'TERRED    YE    BODY    OF 

MRS.    ELIZABETH    PHILLIPS    WIFE 

TO    iMR.    ELEAZER    PHILLIPS    WHO 

WAS    BORX    IN    WESTMINSTER    IN    GREAT 

BRITAIN    AND    COMMISSIONED    BY    JOHN 

LORD   BISHOP    OF   LONDON    IN    YE    YEAR 

I  7  18  TO  YE  OFFICE  OF  A  MIDWIFE  A.ND  CAME 

TO  THIS  COUNTRY  IN  YE  YEAR.  I719  AND  V,\ 

YE    BLESSING    OF   GOD    HAS    BROUGHT  INTO 

THIS    WORLD    ABOVE    130,000    CHILDREN. 

DIED    M.\Y    6,    I761.       AGED    76    YEARS. 


The  Stone  now  actually  bears  this  ex- 
traordinary record  ;  but  the  character  of 
the  figures  and  their  spacing  make  it 
plain  that  the  number  of  births  was 
three  thousand  and  that  it  was  later 
maliciously  magnified  by  the  pre- 
fixing of  a  one  and  the  suffixing 
of  a  final  naught. 

In  the  South,  where  the  pomp 


Gravestnne  of  Thomas  Clark,  Mate  of 
the  Mayflower,  Plymouth,  Mass. 


iC  <■.,!..'.■<•  War 

f|!|lVl.f!|lii'll*J'iJ 


Gravestone  at  Fort  Gtiswold, 
Groton  Heights,  Conn. 


there  are  some  interesting  tombs  and  gravestones.  Northern 
churchyards,  however,  do  not  show  in  tombs  and  grave- 
stones the  same   architectural    qualities   that   examples   of 


*  See  cut,  page  1 24. 

*  Middle-class  Houses.  —  A  very  excellent  example  of  the 
dwelling-house  which  men  of  the  well-to-do  yeoman  cLiss  built  for 
themselves  is  the  Josiah  Day  house  [Plate  2,  I'art  X'lll,  in  West 
.Springfield,  Ma.ss.,  built  in  1754,  and  it  may  be  taken  to  indicate 
either  a  certain  change  in  the  building-fashions  of  the  time  or  else 


and  circumstance  of  family  were  more  obvious  in  daily  life, 
it  is  natural  that  the  tombs  and  gravestones  should  take  on 
a  more  architecturally  monumental  air,  and  many  interesting 

m.iy  mark  the  increasing  prosperity  of  the  family,  for,  whereas  this 
house  at  West  Springfield  is  sulistaiitially  built  of  brick,  tlie 
AmI)rose  Day  house,  built  in  1725  by  a  member  of  tlie  same 
family,  at  Westfield,  not  far  away,  w.is  a  frame  house  with  a  jjar- 
geted,  or  rough-cast,  front,  a  style  of  exterior  finish  at  one  time 
much  in  vogue  in  certain  parts  of  New  England. 


iiS 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


tombs  and  monuments  of  the  period  are  to  be  found  in  tlie 
churchyards  and  private  burying-grounds  from  Maryland 
southward,  while  mural  tablets  bearing  the  family  coat-of- 
arms  and  more  or  less  elaborately  treated  with  carving  deco- 
rate the  church  and  chapel  walls  and  by  the  quaint  phrasing 
of  their  epitaphs  make  plain  that  they  belong  to  an  earlier 
civilization  than  ours. 

It  must  be  evident  that  it  was  the  writer's  intention  to  let 
this  paper  end  with  this  slight  reference  to  the  last  resting- 
place  of  the  men  whose  homes  in  life  have  been  the  subject 
of  these  investigations,  but  at  the  last  moment  —  long  after 
the  eleventh  hour  has  struck  —  there  come  to  hand  photo- 
graphs of  an  extremely  interesting  house  ^  at  Binghamton, 
N.  Y.,  which  should  not  be  omitted  from  a  record  that  has 
been  allowed  to  extend  over  into  the  Greek  Revival  period. 
It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  clearer  case  of  Transition  — 
it  is  pleasant  to  treat  the  subject  with  full  architectural 
dignity  —  than  this  little  house  affords.  The  original  house, 
with  its  central  hallway,  its  four  chimneys  in  the  outside 
walls  declaring  an  open  fire-place  for  each  of  its  four 
rooms  and,  above  all,  its  porches,  both  front  and  rear, 
is  clearly  of  the  eighteenth-century  type  common  to  cen- 
tral New  York,  the  front  porch  showing  an  interesting 
vagary  in  the  planning  which  evidences  thought  and  archi- 

1  Plate  47,  Part  XII. 


tectural  purpose  on  the  part  of  the  designer.  Later,  when 
the  Greek  movement  was  the  talk  of  the  day,  the  owner 
seems  to  have  felt  that  he  must  be  in  the  fashion  and  so 
built  at  one  end  a  screen  wall  with  Classic  attributes  and, 
to  show  his  originality,  quite  as  much,  possibly,  as  to  gain 
space,  introduced  a  species  of  two-story  bow-window  in  the 
middle  —  essentially  repeating  the  Boston  "swell  front." 
The  plebeian  extensions  and  additions  at  the  other  end  of 
house,  added  at  a  still  later  day,  serve  to  show  to  what  depths 
of  architectural  ignorance  building  matters  had  been  allowed 
to  sink  in  the  third  quarter  of  the  last  century. 

The  appearance  of  this  circular  or  segmental  bay  or  pavil- 
ion is  something  altogether  notable,  not  only  as  a  confirma- 
tion of  the  belief  in  the  swell-front  as  peculiarly  a  Boston  in- 
stitution, but  also  as  a  reminder  of  the  absence  of  anything  but 
quadrilateral  forms  in  Southern  work,  excepting,  of  course, 
the  fully  circular  forms  adopted  for  certain  out-buildings, 
as  mills,  smoke-houses  and  so  on.  Even  the  half-octagonal 
seems  to  have  been  rarely  used,  the  Harwood  house  in 
Annapolis  being  the  only  building  we  can  recall  that  ex- 
hibits this  form,  but  of  a  later  day  we  find  in  the  Cobb  house 
near  Athens,  Ga.,  a  rather  interesting  application  of  the 
octagonal  treatment  which  also  may  be  considered  one  of 
the  final  forms  of  development  of  the  wing-pavilion. 


House  of  Gen.  T.  R.  R.  Cobb,  near  Athens,  C.a. 


The  Massachusetts  State-house,  Boston. 


SINCE  the  attempt  to  do  away  with  the  "  Bulfinch 
front"  of  the  Massachusetts  State-house  was  the  in- 
ciiing  cause  of  the  publication  of  "  The  Georgian 
Period"  it  seems  proper  here  to  give  some  slight  in- 
dication of  the  character  of  the  arguments  that  at  last  pre- 
vailed and  secured  the  preservation  of  the  building,  and 
there  are  given  below  a  few  of  the  many  that,  at  one  or 
another  of  the  legislative  hearings,  were  addressed  to  the 
joint  committee  charged  with  the  investigation  of  the  question. 
While  the  general  public,  not  only  of  Boston,  but  of  the 

State   at   large,  showed   a    

great  and  sustained  in- 
terest in  the  matter,  and 
argued  the  case  con- 
vincedly,  both  pro  and  con, 
the  chief  factor  in  the  fight 
—  the  discussion  was  often 
very  animated,  to  say  the 
least  —  was  the  Boston  So- 
ciety of  Architects,  and, 
more  specifically,  its  Presi- 
dent, Mr.  Charles  A.  Cum- 
mings,  who,  in  the  final  ef- 
fort in  1895  (the  question 
had  to  be  debated  before 
three  several  legislatures 
before  it  was  finally  settled 
in  favor  of  the  contention 
of  the  Society),  was  ably 
seconded  by  Mr.  Clement 
K.  Fay,  a  lawyer,  who  vol 
untarily  charged  himself 
with  the  burden  and  ex- 
pense of  conducting  the 
case.  The  earlier  efforts 
toward  securing  the  preser- 
vation of  Bulfinch's  work 
were   based   mainly   on 

architectural  argume  nts,    

and  though  they  were  effective  in  deferring  final  action,  it 
was  felt  wisest  that  at  the  final  hearings  the  greatest  stress 
should  declare  itself  in  the  way  of  an  appeal  to  the  senti- 
ment of  the  community,  and  preservation  was  finally  voted 
as  a  matter  of  sentiment  rather  than  because  preservation 
was  both  architecturally  and  economically  desirable. 
In  brief,  the  early  history  of  the  building  is  this :  — 
On  January  30,  1795,  the  Legislature  appointed  the  Hon. 
Edward  W.  Robbins,  Speaker  of  the  House,  and  Charles  Bul- 
finch, architect,   "  to  act   as  agents  in   building  the   State- 


A  Corner  of  the  Council-Chamber. 


House,"  the  most  important  building  undertaking  of  the  day 
and  the  first  public  edifice  of  importance  to  be  built  since 
the  close  of  the  Revolution.  The  corner-stone  was  laid  July  4, 
1795,  and  the  Legislature  opened  its  first  session  in  the  new 
building  January  11,  1798.      The  cost  of  the  building  had 

been  $i33.333-33- 

In  1853,  because  of  the  demand  for  more  space,  a  large 
addition  was  built  on  the  north  [rear]  side  by  Mr.  Gridley  J.  F. 
Bryant,  and  in  1867  some  very  considerable  changes  in  the 
interior  of  the  original  building  were  carried  out  by  Mr. 

William  Washburn  :  these 
consisted,  in  the  main,  of 
the  introduction  of  mezza- 
nine floors  and  the  finish- 
ing off  of  rooms  in  the 
roof  of  the  building.  The 
changes  carried  out  by  both 
Bryant  and  Washburn  were 
matters  of  record,  but  dur- 
ing the  work  of  preserva- 
tion and  restoration  in  1896 
evidence  came  to  light  of  a 
seemingly  innumerable 
number  of  changes  and 
alterations  carried  out  by 
nameless  somebodies 
under  unrecognizable  au- 
thorizations ;  for  instance, 
when  or  by  whom  the  orig- 
inal lantern  crowning  the 
dome  was  replaced  by 
the  one  which  is  most 
familiar  to  living  men  is 
not  known. 

The  work  of  preserva- 
tion in  1896  was  entrusted 
to  Messrs.  Arthur  G.  Ever- 
ett (of  the  firm  Cabot,  Ev- 
erett &  Mead)  and  Robert 
D.  Andrews  (of  the  firm  Andrews,  Jaques  &  Rantoul),  with 
Mr.  C.  .A.  Cummings  as  consulting-architect,  and  consisted, 
besides  the  strengthening  of  foundations  and  floors,  of  the 
removing  of  every  trace  of  Washburn's  work —  Bryant's  addi- 
tion had  already  been  torn  down  to  give  place  to  the  new  an- 
nex on  the  north  —  and  the  fireproofing  of  the  roof  and  dome. 
An  appropriation  of  $375,000  was  made  for  the  restoration 
and  fireproofing  of  Bulfinch's  work,  a  sum  which  the  propo- 
nents of  the  scheme  for  an  entire  new  building  declared 
insufficient    for    the    work.       The     architects     administered 


I20 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


their  undertaking  in  so  efficient  a  manner  that,  although 
$111,000  were  expended  upon  furniture  and  certain  work  on 
the  approaches  and  terraces  not  contemplated  in  the  Act 
authorizing  the  expenditure,  they  were  able  to  close  their  ac- 
counts with  an  unexpended  balance  from  the  original  ap- 
propriation of  nearly  $40,000.  The  defenders  of  Bulfinch's 
work  have  been  amply  justified  as  economists,  while  the 
lesson  that  was  given  to  the  present  and  future  generations 
as  to  the  value  of  sentiment  and  the  veneration  that  should 
be  accorded  to  the  tangible  evidences  of  historic  occurrences 
has  been  worth  far  more  than  the  value  of  the  time  spent  at 
the  hearings. 

If  the  stenographer's  notes  of  these  many  hearings  should 
be  examined,  abundant  evidence  would  be  found  that  the 
men  of  Massachusetts  have,  in  spite  of  their  seeming  non- 
chalance and  reserve,  a  warmth  and  delicacy  of  feeling  that 
on  occasion  can  find  forceful  utterance  with  a  semblance  of 
Gallic  effusiveness.  Of  all  the  words  that  were  spoken  there 
were  none  that  went  more  directly  to  the  root  of  the  matter 
or  appealed  so  effectively  to  the  conscience  of  each  hearer 
than  those  spoken  by  the  venerable  Col.  Henry  Lee,  who 
might  almost  be  called  Governor  Andrew's  War  Secretary. 
Col.  Lee's  remarks  follow  the  two  or  three  selections  we  have 


course,  officially  received  in  the  State-house  by  Governor  Brooks. 
Monroe  was  so  much  pleased  with  the  building  tliat  lie  asked  to 
be  introduced  to  Mr.  Bulfinch;  and  it  was  in  consequence  of  this 
visit,  as  it  is  said,  that  Mr.  Bultinch  made  the  plans  for  the  restora- 
tion of  the  Capitol  at  Washington. 

"  Doric  Hall,  the  hall  where  the  regimental  colors  are  Dreserved, 
was  familiarly  called  by  tliis  name  during  the  first  part  of  the 
century.  It  was  in  this  hall  that  the  meeting  took  place,  once 
famous,  at  which  Mr.  Webster  made  his  great  speech  m  protest 
against  the  admission  of  Missouri.  No  mention  will  be  found  of 
this  great  occasion  in  Mr.  Curtis's  '  Life  of  Webster^  because 
at  the  time  he  wrote  that  book  Mr.  Curtis  thought  it  might  wound 
the  susceptiljilities  of  the  South.  All  the  same,  the  mseting  was 
held  and  tlie  speech  was  made ;  and  the  substance  of  it  proljably 
remains  in  the  address  which  this  meeting  published  as  the  pro- 
test of  Massachusetts  against  the  extension  of  slavery  in  1820. 

"  At  that  time  the  colors  sent  by  Stark  to  Boston,  after  tlie  Battle 
of  Bennington,  were  still  preserved,  with  the  Hessian  drum  and 
musket,  in  tlie  Senate  chamber.  15y  an  unfortunate  tidy  turn  of 
Mr.  Messenger  Kuhn,  who  found  they  were  moth-eaten  and  dirty, 
t'.ie  colors  were  destroyed  in  a  spring  cleaning  under  his  direction. 
Doubtless  he  said  that  the  old  colors  were  out  of  repair,  and  that 
new  ones  would  last  better.  Still,  some  of  us  are  sorry  that  the 
eagles  which  the  Landgrave  of  Hesse  borrowed  from  Charlemagne 
and  the  Roman  l-jupire  did  not  escape  the  hand  of  modern  re- 
pair and  improvement.     We  lost  the  chance  then  to  say  :  — 

'  So  even  Roman  banners  fall 
To  hide  the  time-stains  on  our  wall.' 


The  Ends  of  the  Old  Senate-Chamber,  before  the  Restoration. 


made  from  the   interesting  series  of  tracts  that  were  given 
wide  circulation  during  the  discussions. 


"A  Century  of  the  Commonwealth." 

[liY  Edward  Kvkrett  Hale.] 

"  It  will  be  ninety-nine  years  on  the  fourth  of  July  since  the 
corner-stone  of  what  was  long  called  the  '  New  State-house  ' 
was  drawn  to  its  place  by  fifteen  white  horses.  The  number  of 
horses  indicated  the  number  of  States  in  tlie  Union;  Vermont  and 
Kentucky  having  been  added  to  the  old  thirteen.  Samuel  Adams 
was  Governor,  and  laid  the  corner-stone  with  due  solemnity. 
With  the  next  celebration  of  Independence,  then,  tlie  hundredth 
year  of  the  State-house  will  begin. 

"  It  was  intimated  in  some  journal  last  week  that  the  century 
which  has  pas.sed  has  been  so  uneventful  that  the  New  State-house 
has  no  very  interesting  historical  associations,  before  those  con- 
nected with  the  War  (Jovernor  and  the  War.  It  would  be  curi- 
ous, indeed,  if  this  were  so.  It  would  have  startled  George  Cabot, 
Josiah  Quincy,  lUbridge  (ierry,  Caleb  Strong,  Christopher  Gore, 
or  their  contemporaries,  had  they  been  told  that  nothing  of  much 
dramatic  interest  transpired  in  those  halls  in  the  earlier  part  of 
the  century.  It  would  have  surprised  Charles  Bulfinch  had  he 
been  told  that  the  building  he  had  planned  had  not  won  a  place  in 
history  before  it  was  thirty  years  old. 

"When  President  Monroe  visited  Boston  in   1817,  he  was,  of 


"  The  Commissioners  now  tell  us  about  the  whob  building  what 
Mr.  Kuhn  said  about  the  banners ;  it  is  old  and  out  of  repair,  and 
a  new  one  can  be  had  for  money,  and  the  State  is  rich. 

"  The  State  conventions  of  l<S2o  and  1853  were  both  held  in  this 
State-house.  The  wealth  of  oratory  and  of  wisdom,  from  all  men 
of  mark,  was  lavished  here.  Men  sat  in  those  bodies  who  had 
never  served  in  the  General  Court,  in  their  readiness  to  help  in 
framing  permanent  institutions  of  the  Commonwealth.  Webster, 
Story,  most  of  the  judges  of  our  own  courts,  indeed,  have  sooner 
or  later  taken  part  in  the  deliberations  here.  In  1853,  Sumner 
and  Phillips,  neither  of  whom  ever  sat  in  the  Legislature,  were  in 
the  convention.  In  State  Legislatures  and  public  hearings  I  have 
heard  Charles  Francis  Adams,  Benjamin  Franklin,  Thomas  Peleg 
Sprague,  Francis  Wayland,  Kdward  Everett,  and  many  others, 
orators  or  statesmen;  some  of  them  in  the  days  when  the  State- 
house  was  not  half  a  century  old. 

"Every  European  traveller  of  distinction,  who  had  any  claim  to 
be  presented  to  the  (lovernor  of  his  time,  was  taken,  of  course, 
to  the  State-house.  It  would  be  fair  to  say  that,  with  its  wealth 
of  archives,  the  two  charters,  the  statue  of  Washington,  the  relics  of 
the  older  monument,  it  represented  the  Commonwealth  as  no  single 
man  could  do.  Lafayette  was  received  here  in  1824  ;  a  few  years 
later  General  Jackson  was  received  here.  The  ceremony  was  the 
more  distinguished  because  the  hosts  supposed  his  advent  to 
the  presidency  to  be  a  permanent  injury  to  the  Constitution;  and 
they  were  obliged  to  show,  in  every  detail  of  their  hospitality, 
that  they  were  Americans  and  gentlemen,  though  they  did  not 
'  Hurrah  for  Jackson.'  l^rinces  of  every  grade,  from  Keokuk 
and  Blackhawk  round  to  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  Prince  Alexis, 


THE  MASSACHUSETTS   STATE-HOUSE. 


121 


have  been  received  here.  It  was  after  an  hour  in  the  Governor's 
room,  where  the  Karl  of  Kllesmere,  the  Governor  of  Canada,  had 
seen  Andrew's  ministrations  in  thjir  detail,  that  he  thanked  the 
Governor  for  his  hospitality  and  said,  •  I  understand  your  institu- 
tions as  I  never  did  before.' 

••  Indeed,  it  was  the  work  of  the  War,  with  the  great  War  Gover- 
nor and  the  loyal  staff  who  served  him  so  well  using  every  inch  of 
the  State-house  for  the  duty  whicli  Massachusetts  had  in  that 
crisis,  it  was  this,  more  than  everytliing  else,  which  has  endeared 
the  old  New  State-house  to  this  generation." 


"The  Crown  of  Beacon   Hill." 

[Bv  Charlks  a.  Cummings.] 

"  There  are  signs  that  the  people  are  waking  up  to  the  danger 
which  threatens  the  State-house  on  Beacon  Hill.  They  must  do 
more  than  wake  up,  if  they  wish  to  save  it.  The  impression  has 
become  general,  the  press  has  lately  fostered  it,  that  its  destruc- 
tion is  a  matter  of  necessity ;  that  its  foundations  are  weak,  its 


'•  It  is  true,  further,  that  the  interior  disposition  of  tlie  wings  at 
the  ends  of  the  building  as  executed  by  Bulfincli  was  changed 
in  tlie  lowest  story  during  the  tasteless  and  unskilful  alterations 
made  some  thirty  years  ago,  under  th^  direction  of  Mr.  Washburn, 
by  the  insertion  of  an  intermediate  floor,  whicli  divided  the  ample 
chambers  of  Mr.  Bulfinch  in  order  to  give  the  Legislature  some 
necessary  committee-rooms,  but  wliich  greatly  detracted  from  tlie 
propriety  and  dignity  of  that  portion  of  the  interior.  These  addi- 
tional rooms  have  now  been  rendered  unnecessary  by  the  ample 
provision  made  by  Mr.  Brigliam  in  the  extension  buildings,  now 
nearly  completed,  and  nothing  prevents  the  removal  of  the  inter- 
mediate floors  and  the  restoration  of  the  wings  to  their  original 
condition. 

"  But  all  this  has  really  very  little  to  do  with  the  case  as  it  now 
stands.  If  the  Commissioners  wished  to  retain  the  present  buikl- 
ing,  there  would  be  nothing  heard  of  its  bad  condition.  They 
would  go  to  work  quietly  wliere  they  found  repairs  needed  and 
put  it  in  a  good  and  safe  condition.  They  do  }iot  wish  to  retain 
it.  It  is  very  old,  they  say;  it  is  a  hundred  years  old;  it  cannot 
stand  much  longer;  better  take  it  down  now  while  we  are  con- 
cerned with  it,  and  have  .something  new  and  more  in  accordance 
with  what  we  are  just  finishing  behind  it. 


The  Daniel  H.  Peirce  House,  Purtsmoutli,  N.  II.     [i79<>.] 


woodwork  decayed,  and  its  general  condition  unsafe  and  threaten- 
ing ruin. 

"  It  is  very  necessary  to  say  with  emphasis  that  this  is  an  entirely 
false  impression,  and  that  among  tlie  various  parties  directly  in- 
terested in  replacing  the  present  building  by  a  new  and  more  am- 
bitious structure  not  one  has  claimed  that  there  is  any  weakness  or 
failure  in  any  part  of  the  State-house  except  in  tlie  dome.  The 
dome  is  a  small  hemisphere  about  50  feet  in  diameter,  of  which 
the  framing  is  of  pine  joists  or  planks,  considerably  lighter,  no 
doubt,  than  we  should  use  to-day  in  a  similar  work,  and  which 
rests  on  two  wooden  trusses.  These  trusses  have  been  carried 
down  at  one  extremity  by  the  weight  (as  is  understood)  of  a  large 
water-tank  which  was  put  in  at  tlie  time  tlie  elevator  was  introduced. 
It  is  also  doubtless  true  that  tlie  framing-timbers  just  spoken  of 
have  suffered  more  or  less  from  dry-rot  and  ravages  of  worms. 
But  the  replacing  of  these  timbers  with  sound  ones  of  greater  size, 
and  the  blocking  up  of  the  dome  to  its  true  level,  is  a  trifling  mat- 
ter, involving  (as  one  of  the  Commissioners  admits)  no  difficulty 
and  small  expense,  and  could  be  done  without  any  interference 
with  the  daily  use  of  the  building  below. 


"  Well,  it  is  not  to  be  doubted  that  their  new  liuilding  would  be 
in  many  respects  of  construction  better  and  safer  than  the  old  one. 
It  would  certainly  be  more  splendid,  and  more  in  accordance  with 
modern  methods.     But  is  tliat  the  only  consideration  ? 

"  We  say.  No,  nor  yet  the  cliief  consideration.  What  is  most 
valuable  is  the  State-liouse  of  a  hundred  years  ago,  its  history;  its 
a.ssociations  with  tlie  men  of  other  days,  the  inexpressible,  un- 
definalile  flavor  of  earlier  times  when  life  was  simpler  and  when 
the  name  of  Massacliusetts  stood  for  all  tliat  was  noble  and  fine 
in  citizenship,  can  never  be  transferred  to  a  new  State-liouse. 
Add  to  this,  which  is  a  consi<leration  rightly  enough  character- 
ized as  "  sentimental,"  tlie  simple,  noljle  and  dignified  aspect  of 
the  building  and  tlie  extreme  inijjrobabililv  that  any  more  aml)i- 
tious  successor  will  ever  possess  these  qualities  in  e<|ual  measure, 
and  we  are  justified,  I  think,  in  saying  that  tlie  destruction  of  the 
.State-house  would  be  a  lamentalile  concession  to  the  modern 
American  spirit  wliich  carries  us  every  year  fartlier  away  from  tlie 
'  nobler  modes  of  life,  witli  sweeter  manners,  ])urer  laws,'  wliich 
our  fathers  knew,  tlie  .spirit  of  false  progress,  false  ambition,  false 
pride." 


12: 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


This  series  of  tracts  was  admirably  effective,  but  as  they 
lacked  the  emphasis  of  vocal  inflection  and  did  not  afford 
ocular  proof  of  the  sincerity  and  earnestness  of  the  protestant 
they  did  not  have  tlie  force  and  effectiveness  of  the  words 
personally  addressed  to  the  joint  committee  by  many  dis- 
tinguished and  humble  citizens  alike.  It  was  a  real  intel- 
lectual treat  to  attend  those  hearings.  But  of  all  the  words 
that  were  uttered  none,  probably,  were  quite  so  impressive  as 
Colonel  Lee's. 

[Rkmakks  of  Coi..  Henry   Lee.] 

'•  This  is  a  matter  of  sentiment,  as  Governor  Rice  said.  He 
who  does  not  vakie  sentiment  ou<;lit  not  to  be  here.  John  Win- 
throp  valued  sentiment,  or  he  would  not  have  come  here ;  so  did 
his  companions.  They  had  nothinjj  but  sentiment  and  piety  to 
preserve  them  and  keep  their  courage  up,  as  had  the   Plymouth 


City-hall;  I  don't.  There  was  Sir  William  I'hips's  house,  that  old 
buccaneer,  to  fulfil  the  dreams  of  his  l)oyhood  ;  and  wlien  1  was  a 
boy,  it  was  used  as  the  lioys'  Asylum :  that  stood  down  on 
Charter  Street,  a  grand  old  building.  There  was  the  house  of 
Governor  Hutchinson  and  his  father,  which  house  was  so  fine  that, 
after  Hutchinson  was  made  CJovernor,  he  said  he  didn't  want  to 
go  and  live  in  the  Province  House,  because  he  had  a  better  one 
down  at  the  North  End  ;  that  and  the  house  of  Sir  Harry  P>ank- 
land  stood  side  by  side  in  Garden  Court  Street.  That  house  I 
have  seen  in  my  boyhood,  and  am  one  of  the  few  now  living  who 
ever  saw  it,  a  most  remarkable  specimen  of  Provincial  architect- 
ure ;  but  pulled  down  ruthlessly.  It  would  have  been  well  to  have 
preserved  it.  There  was  the  beautiful  Hancock  house,  well  re- 
membered ;  and  (Governor  Andrew  did  all  that  he  could  to  pre- 
serve it.  It  would  have  been  mo.st  appropriate  for  the  official  resi- 
dence of  the  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  and  could  have  been 
bought  for  less  than  you  paid  for  an  ordinary  house  on  the  other 
side  of  the  way  a  few  years  afterwards;  and  there,  sentiment,  if  it 
had  ruled  the  hour,  would  have  been  found  in  the  end  to  have 
been  profitable.     There  were  long  lines  of  houses  :  all  Pemberton 


The  Van  Lew  House,  Richmond,  Va. 


Fathers.  It  seems  to  be  rather  late  in  the  day  for  us  of  Massa- 
chusetts to  abandon  sentiment.  It  has  money  value  as  well  as  its 
moral  value.  When  I  first  remember  Boston,  it  was  filled  with 
sentiment.  The  buildings,  which  stood  mostly  apart  with  their 
gardens,  were  Provincial,  some  of  them  going  back  to  Colonial 
times.  As  the  city  grew  —  as  the  town  grew,  for  it  was  not  a  city 
then  —  as  the  town  grew  and  room  was  wanted  for  the  population, 
these  old  buildings  came  down  gradually  and  gave  way  to  blocks 
of  buildings ;  but  many  of  them  might  have  been  preserved,  and  in 
looking  back,  we  see  that  if  the  sentiment  of  the  time  had  inspired 
jieople  to  their  preservation,  there  would  have  been  money  value  in 
it.  There  stood  the  old  Province  House,  a  proud  old  building,  one 
of  the  few  remains  of  Colonial  magnificence,  built  in  1679  by  Peter 
.Sargent,  for  many  years  the  vice-regal  court  of  this  Province,  the 
abode  of  nine  Provincial  Governors,  one  after  another,  from  a  testy 
old  Colonel  of  Marlborough's  army  down  to  Sir  William  Howe,  who 
left  it  at  the  time  of  the  evacuation  of  Boston.  That  might  have 
stood  behind  its  oak-trees  on  its  terraces,  a  grand,  stately  old  build- 
ing, and  would  have  been  much  handsomer,  in  my  opinion,  than  our 
new  City-hall  —  I  suppose  Mr. '  would  have  preferred  the  new 

*  A  previous  speaker,  who  favored  Uie  demolition  of  the  State-house. 


Hill  was  covered  with  them  ;  Peter  Faneuil's  house,  the  giver  of 
the  hall;  there  was  the  house  of  Sir  Harry  Vane,  afterwards  Rev. 
John  Cotton's  house;  there  was  Governor  Bellingham's  house; 
and  these  with  their  grounds  would  have  made  a  beautiful  park 
for  the  city,  and  we  should  not  have  had  to  go  out  five  or  six 
miles  to  find  our  park.  It  would  have  been  well  to  have  preserved 
them. 

"  There  were  fortifications.     Some  one  spoke  here  as  if  there 

had  never  been  any  associations  in  this  country,  ex-Senator , 

no  other  associations  but  the  Revolutionary  associations.  I  think 
there  have  been  a  great  many  associations,  but  if  you  come  to 
Revolutionary  associations,  there  was  the  fortification  on  the 
Common  that  was  levelled  when  I  was  in  College  ;  there  were 
the  fortifications  at  the  South  End ;  there  were  the  fortifications 
on  Mystic  River,  where  afterwards  the  convent  was  built,  and  a 
cordon  of  earthworks  from  Mysdc  River  through  Somerville, 
Cambridge,  Brookline,  Ro.xbury,  ending  with  Dorchester  Heights; 
memorials  of  the  Siege  of  Boston  and  of  Washington's  trials. 
And  I  think  a  beautiful  parkway  could  have  been  made  and  these 
fortifications  preserved  for  a  very  small  amount  of  money,  and 
sentiment  would  have  been  found  to  have  been  economy  in  the 


THE  MASSACHUSETTS   STATE-HOUSE. 


123 


end.  But  those  were  the  interesting  monuments  of  my  bojliood 
and  youtli. 

"  A  monument,  what  is  a  monument  ?  Tliere  were  some  ricli 
men  who  thought  a  monument  ouglit  to  be  something  new;  they 
had  Mr. "s  idea  about  it,  that  it  ought  to  be  something  new,  some- 
thing in  the  present  style.  I  don't  know  whether  the  dome  of  St. 
Peter's  had  been  changed  to  the  modern  style  to  attract  people  or 
not !  They  thought  this  monument  ought  to  l^e  something  new, 
something  pretty  fine,  finer  than  the  earthworks  which  were  there. 
When  my  father  took  me  over  to  see  Bunker  Hill,  there  were  the 
earthworks;  one  could  see  the  redoubt  on  which  I'rescott  stood; 
see  the  breastwork  ;  see  where  the  rail  fence  ran.  One  could  see 
all  the  way  down  to  the  Xavy  Yard,  to  Moulton's  Point,  where 
the  British  landed.  That  was  something  like  a  monument ;  it  was 
not  a  mere  record,  which  the  Monument  afterwards  was  ;  it  was  a 
remituhr  of  the  scene,  and  that  is  what  a  monument  should  be. 
You  stood  there,  and  all  the  sentiment  of  the  battle  came  to  you. 
Now,  you  go  there,  and  you  stand  upon  a  hill,  nicely  graded  and 
all  the  redoubt  and  breastwork  filled  uji  and  erased,  and  you  have 
the  pleasure  of  seeing  an  Egyptian  obelisk  !  Well,  it  is  a  matter 
of  taste  :  to  me  the  old  earthworks  would  have  been  more  inspir- 
ing, more  suggestive,  without  the  Egyptian  obelisk.     Mr. has  a 

different  mind.  It  is  a  free  country;  we  all  have  a  right  to  our 
opinion. 

"  If  you  want  to  save  the  State-house,  you  want  to  save  it  as  a 
matter  of  sentiment :  it  is  easier  now  that  they  have  built  that  re- 
markably exaggerated  building  behind. 

"  During  the  war,  when  Governor  Andrew  worked  night  and  day, 
when  war  as  well  as  peace  was  carried  on,  the  State-house  was 
sufficiently  large.  What  they  want  a  building  seven  times  as  large 
for,  I  don't  know,  unless  every  legi.slator  is  seven  times  as  big  as 
he  was  in  those  days.  I  was  to-day  guided  through  ;  I  went  to 
the  farther  end.  I  was  told  you  were  to  be  in  No.  29.  Then  I 
came  to  No.  8.  I  could  not  come  without  a  guide.  What  you 
want  such  a  building  for,  I  don't  know ;  but  it  is  built.     I  suppose 

you  want  it,  as  Mr. says,  to  advertise  the  .State;  or  it  was 

wanted  for  some  other  purpose.     Well,  I  think  it  is  a  great  pity. 

"A  great  many  years  ago,  my  father  bought  a  house  in  Brookline. 
It  was  an  historic  house;  it  was,  part  of  it,  230  years  old.  In 
that  hou.se  had  been  born  Susannah  Boylston,  the  mother  of  Jolin 
Adams,  the  first  John  Adams.  I  have  a  letter  of  John  Adams's, 
saying  that  he  has  not  been  there  since  he  was  a  youth  and 
brought  his  mother  on  horseback  on  a  pillion  behind  him.  The 
carpenter  told  me  when  I  wanted  him  to  make  some  repairs  for 
my  father,  '  I  tell  you,  Mr.  Lee,  the  cheapest  thing  you  can  do  is 
to  pull  that  house  right  down.'  He  found  that  there  was  some 
dr)--rot  in  it,  that  there  were  some  of  the  studs  worn  off  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  some  other  things  ;  and  that  carpenter  was  of  Mr. 's 

opinion,  that  a  new  house  was  wanted ;  that  it  would  advertise 
my  father  better  than  the  old  house.  And  I  did  not  do  it :  I  kept 
the  old  house  in  spite  of  its  being  "  powder-posted  " ;  I  have 
kept  it,  it  is  now  forty  years,  and  I  can  say  that  I  never  go  to  that 
house,  for  I  don't  live  in  it,  one  of  my  sons  lives  in  it,  I  never  go 
to  that  house  without  an  active  sensation  of  pleasure.  Why  ? 
Well,  when  you  go  abroad,  what  do  you  go  to  see  ?  Do  you  go 
to  see  the  ne-iO  houses  in  London  .'  Do  you  go  to  see  the  new 
Law  Courts.?  Do  you  go  to  see  that  griffin  that  tliey  put  up 
where  Temple  Bar  stood  ?  No,  you  go  at  once,  the  minute  you 
can  dust  your  clothes,  out  you  go  to  see  Westminster  Abbey.  I 
have  no  doubt  there  is  rot  in  Westminster  Abbey.  I  have  no 
doubt  some  stones  have  crumbled,  and  I  think  it  7i'(i«/rt' advertise 
London  if  they  built  a  new  one.  But  what  sliould  you  think 
when  you  came  to  London  and  asked  for  Westminster  Abbey 
and  they  should  say,  '  Well,  you  can't  see  the  Abbey,  but  you  can 
see  a  model  of  the  Abbey;  it  was  thought  in  the  way  and  tliat  we 
ought  to  have  something  new,  something  Xo  advertise  London,  and 
we  have  taken  down  the  Abbey  ' .' 

"  Now,  is  it  healthy  ?  Perhaps  that  is  one  reason  they  took  it 
down  :  took  it  down  because  it  was  too  old  and  too  much  dry-rot 
in  it,  and  they  wanted  something  new,  something  up  to  the  times, 

Mr. .     And  the  Tower,  '  Well,  yes.  you  can  see  the    Tower, 

but  who  wants  to  go  and  see  the  Tower  ' .'  Why,  you  do,  tlie 
American,  who  is  going  to  pull  down  the  State-house.  You  go 
abroad  on  purpo.se  to  see  the  Temple,  the  Tower  and  the  Al)l)ey 
and  all  the  antiquities  that  you  can  find  in  London,  not  looking  at 
anything  else. 

"  Then  .some  say  this  State-hou.se  is  only  a  hundred  years  old. 
Governor  Long  found  that  out  last  year;  only  a  hundred  years 
old  !  Well,  I  have  seen  the  Abbey  and  I  have  .seen  the  Temjiles 
of  Pxstum,  and  Augustus  C;esar  stood  and  looked  at  them  and 
knew  no  more  about  who  built  them  than  I  do;  but  his  feeling  of 
antiquity  and  association  was  just  the  same  as  mine  when  looking 
at  the  Abbey. 

♦'  You  want  a  reminder  if  you  come  to  the  State-house.     You 


don't  want  a  new  building  to  recall  that  here  was  the  old  State- 
house  once,  built  by  Bulfinch,  and  which  had  witnessed  the  first 
hundred  years  of  the  history  of  the  State.  It  is  all  the  history 
there  is.  Governor  Long  doesn't  seem  to  think  there  is  any  his- 
tory. Now,  he  has  been  one  of  the  Governors;  there  have  been 
tliirty-five  Governors  since  this  building  was  built,  and  they  have 
all  been  good  Governors,  and  it  is  hardly  to  be  supposed  that  there 
is  no  record,  that  we  have  had  no  history  all  these  hundred  years. 
There  have  been  many  interesting  events.  He  said  there  had  been 
no  war,  excepting  the  War  of  the  Rebellion.  That  was  rather  a 
mistake:  we  had  the  War  of  1812,  which  was  a  very  distressing 
war,  too ;  it  robbed  us  of  most  of  our  property  and  was  one  that 
we  were  very  averse  to.  We  had  the  victories  of  18 12.  Up 
through  the  streets  marched  Commodore  Hull  and  Captain  Dacre. 
They  lived  together  in  the  Exchange  Coffee-house,  and  came  to 
the  State-house  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  Governor.  There 
was  the  fight  between  the  '  Clicsapeake''  and  '  S/iannon'' ;  the 
women  were  witnessing  from  the  dome  with  anxious  eyes  that  ter- 
rible defeat. 

'■  There  were  many  events  I  remember  :  the  coming  of  Lafayette 
in  1824,  who  was  received  here,  as  he  was  the  next  year,  when  he 
came  to  the  laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  Bunker  Hill  Monu- 
ment ;  that  is  something  of  an  event.  President  Monroe  came 
here  in  181  7;  that  was  something  of  an  event.  There  have  been 
four  or  five  presidents  here  since  then. 

'■  We  come  down  to  the  Civil  War.  Why,  he  said,  Governor 
Andrew  —  yes,  he  believed  there  was  a  war — but  he  thought  Gov- 
ernor Andrew  was  on  the  steps;  it  was  not  in  the  State-house  ;  he 
was  on  the  steps ;  he  gave  the  flags  and  he  took  the  flags  on  the 
steps.  Well,  if  you  should  be  inclined  to  save  your  father's  house 
and  somebody  sliould  say  to  you,  '  Why,  I  saw  your  father  bid  you 
good-bye  in  the  stage-coach  on  the  steps.'  Yes,  but  I  saw  my 
father  in  the  house,  too.  There  was  something  done  in  the  State- 
house  in  those  long,  tearful  years  of  agony  and  weariness,  heart- 
breaking, disappointment  and  losses  ;  the  procession  of  young  men 
coming  to  offer  themselves  for  service,  saluting  tlie  Governor,  like 
the  gladiators  the  Emi)eror,  '  We  who  are  al>out  to  die  salute  you.' 

Do  vou  suppose  there  is  no  feeling  connected  with  the  rooms 
where  the  Governor  sat  for  those  four  years  ?  a  man  of  peace  called 
upon  suddenly  to  prepare  this  State  for  a  fearful  war,  and  prepar- 
ing it  in  spite  of  ridicule,  in  spite  of  denunciation,  and  preparing 
it  so  promptly  that  Massachusetts  was  the  first  State  :  the  first  men 
who  were  sent  properly  ecjuipped  and  armed  for  the  war  were  the 
men  of  Massachusetts.  The  whole  world  wept  for  Lincoln's  death  ; 
are  there  no  tears  for  Andrew,  who  fell,  after  the  war,  as  much  as 
Lincoln  ?  He  was  killed  by  an  assassin,  but  if  he  had  not  been,  he 
would  have  died  in  a  short  time  from  head  and  heart  weariness. 
Do  you  suppose  Governor  Andrew  could  have  sat  here  those  four 
years,  night  and  day,  for  he  was  here  much  of  the  time  night  and 
day,  working  and  enduring,  and  feeling  that  he  had  been,  more  or 
le.ss.  instrumental  in  bringuig  about  the  deaths  of  all  the  flower  of 
Ma.ssachusett.s,  without  any  emotions.?  Was  there  no  association  ? 
You  have  the  association  with  Bunker  Hill  —  for  what }  A  battle 
of  four  hours.  Has  a  battle  of  four  years  no  association  for  this 
building,  the  agony  of  those  four  years  .?  Men,  haggard  with  anxi- 
etv  and  grief,  and  the  mourners  going  about  the  streets  from  every 
house;  Rachel  weeping  for  her  children  and  would  not  be  com- 
forted because  they  were  not.  Is  there  no  association  for  this 
building,  where  the  headcpiarters  of  the  whole  Government  of  the 
time  were?     It  .seems  to  me  absurd. 

"  I  should  like  to  read  a  small  sentence  from  William  Morris,  on 
this  subject :  '  No  man  who  consents  to  the  destruction  of  an  an- 
cient building  has  any  right  to  pretend  that  he  cares  about  art ;  or 
has  any  excuse  to  plead  in  defence  of  his  crime  against  civilization 
and  ])rogress  save  sheer  brutal  ignorance.' 

'■  Now  I  liave  onlv  one  word  more  to  say.  In  1870  the  Commune 
in  Paris  pulled  down  the  Tuileries.  I  was  there  the  next  year;  1 
saw  the  destruction.  They  pulled  down  tlie  column  on  the  Place 
\'end6me,  of  wliich  they  had  been  so  proud.  Now  the  whole  of 
France  is  all  alive  with  admiration  for  Napoleon.  They  destroyed 
the  Hotel  de  Ville  with  its  priceless  treasures.  What  was  it  ?  The 
work  of  brutes.  Now  we  are  proposing  to  destroy  not  our  Hotel 
de  \'ille,  but  our  State-house,  and  do  it  deliberately,  in  cold  blood. 
If  any  of  you  should  be  hauled  up  for  killing  a  person,  the  judge 
would  make  a  distinction  whether  you  did  it  in  hot  blood,  whether 
you  did  it  under  provocation,  or  whether  you  did  it  in  cold  blood. 
If  vou  did  it  in  cold  blood,  he  will  hang  you  ;  if  you  did  it  in  hot 
blood,  he  will  let  you  off  with  imprisonment  for  life.  So,  we  are 
to  be  more  brutal^  more  culpable  than  those  brutish  Parisians  who 
destroyed  their  monuments  !  We  do  it  in  cold  blood.  In  this 
case,  there  is  no  excuse  ;  you  are  doing  it  in  cold  blood." 

The  battle  that  was  waged   in    Massachusetts   over  the 


124 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Bulfincli  front  of  the  State-bouse  finds  an  echo  in  the  contest 
which  is  at  this  moment  going  on  over  the  retention  or  the 
destruction  of  the  present  City-hall  ^  in  Hartford,  Conn. 
Curiously  enough,  this  former  State-house  is  by  some  said  to 
be  also  the  work  of  Charles  Bulfinch,  —  and  the  cupola  looks 
as  if  it  might  have  been  designed  by  Bulfinch,  but  if  this  is 
so  it  is  curious  that  it  is  not  mentioned  in  the  autographic 
list  of  his  buildings  which  was  found  amongst  Bulfinch's 
papers.  But  whoever  was  the  architect,  the  building,  erected 
in  1796,  is  an  interesting  one,  and  as  the  Connecticut  His- 


torical Society,  the  Daughters  of  the  Revolution  and  kindred 
societies  are  making  the  same  sort  of  appeal  to  the  sentiment 
of  the  community  that  eventually  proved  successful  in  Bos- 
ton, and  have  already  secured  a  sort  of  stay  of  proceedings, 
it  may  be  hoped  with  some  degree  of  confidence  that  the 
ultimate  outcome  of  the  agitation  will  rank  the  chief  city  of 
Connecticut  alongside  of  the  metropolis  of  New  P^ngland  as 
communities  where  the  intellectual  rights  of  civilization  are 
respected,  and  success  here  will  encourage  similar  effort  in 
the  case  of  valued  "  monuments  "  elsewhere. 


1  Town,  Ithiel.  —  Born  in  17S4.     Died,  1844.      In  partnership  house)  in   Hartford,  Conn.,  was  also  his  work,  and  some  of  the 

with  A.  J.  Davis  he  built  the  State-house  at  New  Haven,  and  later  Coveriiment  buildings  at  \Vashin<j;ton  w^'re  built  after  his  d2si<(ns. 

in  his  career  he  desiijned  the  (old)  State-house  of  Indiana  and  the  He  built  many  houses  and  churches  in  the  Connecticut  ValL-y, 

Is'orth  Carolina   State-house.     The  City-hall  (not  the   old   State-  from  Northampton  to  New  Haven,  and  also  in  New  York  State. 


Envoi. 


IN  bringing  to  an  end  his  enjoyable  connection  with  this 
work  the  editor  feels  obliged  to  confess  to  a  regret  that 
so  important  an  undertaking  could  not  have  fallen  to 
the  share  of  some  one  who,  besides  being  better  fitted 
for  the  task,  might  have  hatl  at  command  both  the  necessary 
time  and  the  equally  needful  capital  to  do  thoroughly  and 
well  what  has  been  done  so  imperfectly. 

It  is  "a  thousand  pities"  that  when  architects  began, 
twenty  years  or  so  ago,  to  turn  their  attention  again  to  the 
possibilities  that  lie  in  the  Georgian  style  —  when  it  is  used 
with  discretion  and  refinement  —  there  was  not  in  existence 
some  such  comprehensive  work  as  this.  For  the  lack  of  it 
and  through  the  imperfect  understanding  of  the  style  which 
naturally  grew  out  of  this  lack  the  country  has  been  endowed 
with  a  vast  quantity  of  buildings,  intended  to  express  the 
spirit  of  "Old  Colonial"  work,  which,  because  of  their  ill- 
considered  proportions  and  vulgar  overdressing  with  applied 
ornament,  are  too  often  mere  caricatures  of  the  style. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  is  doubtful  whether  such  a  work  as 
this  could  have  been  brought  out  much  earlier.  In  a  large 
measure  it  results  from  tlie  following  up  of  clues  afforded  by 
the  chance  observation  of  the  ever-wandering  amateur  pho- 
tographer, whose  name  is  legion  and  whose  footsteps  cover 
every  portion  of  the  country.      A  score  of  years  ago   the 


"kodak"  and  the  amateur  photographer  were  not,  and  all 
that  the  architect  had  for  his  guidance  were  such  notes  as  he 
could  make  and  such  inferences  as  he  could  draw  from  the 
comparatively  few  examples  of  good  work  that  could  be 
found  in  his  immediate  neighborhood. 

We  are  profoundly  grateful  for  the  large  amount  of  assist- 
ance we  have  had  in  the  way  of  written  data,  loaned  photo- 
graphs and  drawings  of  measured  work  voluntarily  placed  at 
our  service,  without  demand  for  compensation,  by  many 
different  individuals. 

To  select  for  special  expression  of  gratitude  any  of  these 
appreciated  cooperators  is  somewhat  invidious,  but  we  feel 
that  we  ought  to  make  special  acknowledgment  of  the  kind- 
ness of  the  officials  of  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology, who  placed  at  our  service  the  measured  drawings 
made  by  the  students  in  their  Summer  School  of  Architecture 
—  which  acknowledgment  equally  signalizes  our  appreciation 
of  the  intelligent  activity  of  the  students  who  did  the  actual 
work.  But  beyond  this,  thanks  are  due  to  Mrs.  Thaddeus 
Horton,  who  not  only  has  contributed  several  interesting 
papers  on  Southern  work  and  has  placed  at  our  service  a 
large  collection  of  photographs  of  Southern  buildings,  but 
has  also  secured  valuable  material  through  the  use  of  her 
own  camera.  Wm.  Rotch  Ware. 


Tlie  Vanderveer  House,  Flatbusli,  L.  I. 


Colonial  Work  in  the  Genesee  Valley; 


IN  all  America  there  is  hardly  to  be  found  a  fairer  or 
more  fertile  region  than  that  part  of  New  York  State 
embraced  in  what  is  known  as  the  "  Phelps  and  Gorham 
purchase"  —  the  "park-like  Genesee  Country,"  as  Mrs. 
Van  Rensselaer  has  most  felicitously  called  it.     The  Senecas, 


The  Old  Rochester  Market ;  now  destroyed. 

whose  villages  and  yellow  cornfields  once  lay  thick  on  either 
side  of  the  broad,  fordable  river,  gave  it  the  name  of  the 
Beautiful  Valley,  and  surely  none  could  be  more  fitting. 

Rising  in  the  precipitous  region  south  of  Portage,  the 
Genesee,  in  its  first  miles,  pursues  a  tortuous  course  between 
narrow  banks,  until,  in  the  vicinity  of  Mount  Morris  (whose 
Indian  name  meant  "  where  the  river  forsakes  the  hills  "),  it 
enters  a  broad,  undulating  country,  part  clear,  part  wooded, 
and  gemmed  by  many  crystal  lakes.  At  Rochester  it  attains 
the  level  of  Ontario  by  means  of  two  high  cataracts,  and  for 
the  remaining  few  miles  of  its  course  flows  slowly  and  soberly 
between  the  confining  walls  of  the  famous  gorge  of  the 
Genesee. 

The  beautiful  country  drained  by  this  noble  river  has  been, 
from  the  earliest  times,  a  favorite  dwelling  place  of  man. 
Far  in  the  past,  it  was  the  centre  and  stronghold  of  the  Iro- 
quois nation  —  those  Romans  of  the  ancient  American  world. 
The  first  white  faces  that  appeared  to  them  there  canie  prob- 
ably from  France  —  devoted  Jesuit  missionaries  and  advent- 
urous coureurs  tin  bois,  to  whom  the  region  of  the  Great 
Lakes,  even  beyond  the  Mississippi,  was  already  familiar 
ground  when,  by  the  Dutch  and  English  on  the  coast,  all 
west  of  Albany  was  still  referred  to  as  the  "great  unknown 
country."  The  French,  however,  never  made  secure  their 
foothold  on  these  shores,  and  it  was,  after  all,  the  English 
who,  by  purchase  and  treaty,  supplemented  by  a  liberal  and 
judicious  use  of  firewater,  dispossessed  the  aborigines  and, 
in  the  slow  course  of  time,  evolved  the  average  American  of 
to-day. 

The  Falls  of  the  Genesee,  siiuated  as  they  are  between  the 


Hudson  River  and  the  great  cataract  of  Niagara  (to  which 
they  are  a  hardly  inferior  spectacle),  have  in  the  past  at- 
tracted many  illustrious  visitors.  Louis  Philippe  with  some 
members  of  his  court  followed  the  Indian  trail  from  Canan- 
daigua  to  the  falls  ;  Aaron  Burr  stopped  there  on  one  of  his 
western  journeys,  and  in  later  times  came  Webster,  and  La- 
fayette, and  a  host  of  others,  drawn  not  now  by  the  falls 
themselves,  but  by  the  city  that  had  grown  upon  its  brink. 
So  singular  is  the  law  which  governs  posthumous  greatness, 
the  only  two  individuals  connected  with  the  locality  whose 
names  shine  with  sufficient  lustre  to  pierce  the  darkness  of 
obscuring  years  are  Mary  Jemison,  "  the  white  woman  of  the 
Genesee,"  who,  by  remaining  true  to  her  race  and  loyal  to 
her  adopters,  rendered  inestimable  service  to  the  cause  of 
civilization;  and  a  gin-drinking  mountebank,  Sam  Patch, 
who  in  his  last  utterance  enriched  the  language  with  a  new 
catch  phrase,  "  Some  things  can  be  done  as  well  as  others," 
and  jumped  to  his  deatii  from  the  upper  falls,  in  the  presence 
of  a  crowd  of  horror-stricken  spectators. 


Front  Porch  of  the  Smitli   House,  BrightoTi. 

Of  the  present  condition  and  aspect  of  the  Genesee  Country 
it  is  almost  superfluous  to  speak.  Rochester,  though  not  the 
oldest,  is  the  largest  city,  the  centre  of  what  is  said  to  be 
the  richest  agricultural  district  in  the  world.  At  the  Western 
New  York  State  Fair,  held   there  annually,  the  impossible 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


pictures  of  fruit  and  stock  and  poultry,  made  familiar  through 
the  columns  of  the  Homestead  and  Henhouse  and  similar 
publications  come  near  to  being  realized  —  dogs  with  blood 
in  their  e_ve,  chickens  with  whiskers  on  their  legs  and  pigs  so 
fat  their  feet  have   become  mere  rudimentary  appendages, 


Front  Entrance  to  the  Griffith  House,  Rochester;   now  destroyed. 

far  up  their  sides.  Rochester  is  also  noted  for  its  nurseries 
and  fine  collections  of  orchids,  chrysanthemums  and  other 
flowers;  and  the  many  famous  stables  and  kennels  in  the 
city  and  up  the  valley  annually  send  representatives  to  met- 
ropolitan horse  and  bench  shows. 

At  Geneseo,  Mount  Morris  and  vicinity,  there  exists  a  con- 
dition of  things  common  enough  abroad,  but  rarely  found  in 
America,  a  sort  of  enlightened  feudal  system,  the  land  being 
almost  exclusively  owned  by  a  few  individuals,  hereditary 
holders,  who,  instead  of  leaving  its  management  in  the  hands 
of  unscrupulous  agents  and  living  elsewhere  on  the  desired 
revenue,  plant  themselves  squarely  in  the  centre  of  their  own 
acres  and  identify  their  interests  with  those  of  their  tenants. 
The  life  of  the  people  of  this  class  is  not  unlike  that  of 
the  English  country  gentleman  ;  their  work  consists  in  the 
management  and  improvement  of  their  land,  the  bettering  of 
the  condition  of  the  farming  population  and  the  breeding 
and  maintaining  of  thoroughbred  animals,  preeminently  the 
horse.  Their  relaxation  is  found  in  the  entertainment  of 
guests,  the  exchange  of  visits  and,  more  than  all  else,  fox- 
hunting in  its  season.  Once  every  year,  lured  by  the  Genesee 
Valley  Hunt,  one  of  the  most  famous  in  the  country,  "  So- 
ciety" comes  farther  westward  than  is  its  wont,  and  finds  in 
the  autumnal  splendors  of  the  valley  a  rival  to  its  own  Berk- 
shire Hills.  Mention  must  be  made,  also,  of  another  class 
whose  presence  colors  —  or  discolors  —  the  social  life  of 
several  of  the  villages  —  invalids,  who,  seeking  to  renew 
their  health  from  springs  famous  since  Indian  times  for  their 
medicinal  properties,  are  rested  and  often  restored  by  a  resi- 
dence in  so  fine  a  climate,  amid  such  beautiful  surroundings. 
The  mingling  of  these  various  elements  renders  the  summer 
life  of  the  valley  quite  distinctive,  so  that  the  curious  stranger, 
looking  from  the  car  window,  expecting  to  see  only  repre- 
sentatives of  the  rural  population  waiting  for  the  incoming 
train,  is  quite  as  likely  to  be  greeted  by  the  sight  of  smart 
traps  and  liveried  servants  and  well  groomed  men  and  women, 
surrounded  by  all  that  they  can  muster  of  the  pomp  and  cir- 
cumstance of  wealtii. 

I  have  delayed  thus  long  in  coming  to  the  subject  of  the 


Colonial  architecture  of  this  region,  because  there  is  so  little 
to  be  said,  and  because  drawings  say  that  little  so  much  more 
completely  than  words.  So  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  gather, 
from  research  and  observation,  what  Colonial  work  the  valley 
contains  derives  more  from  the  South  than  from  New  Eng- 
land, which  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  first  settlers 
came  from  Maryland.  Many  of  the  very  oldest  houses  ex- 
hibit a  central  mass  flanked  by  two  low  wings,  and  often  a 
pillared  portico  in  front  (not  to  be  confused  with  the  Greek- 
temple  type  of  a  later  day),  two  features  common  in  Southern 
Colonial  work,  but  rare  in  Eastern.  The  details,  too,  incline 
to  heaviness  rather  than  to  that  extreme  delicacy  one  sees  in 
Salem  and  Portsmouth  houses.  A  Dutch  influence,  derived 
from  Albany  and  New  York,  the  then  nearest  large  citiesi 
maybe  seen  in  many  of  the  old  doorways  and  in  "spindley  " 
mantels  with  fan-shaped  ornaments.  The  architecture  here 
passed  through  the  same  phases  as  elsewhere  throughout  the 
country  ;  an  increasing  heaviness  and  coarseness  led  at  last 
to  the  adoption  of  Greek  ornament  and  proportioning,  more 
and  more  slavishly  adhered  to,  and  this  ended  in  the  unre- 
lieved hopelessness  of  "carpenters'  Classic." 

Of  Colonial  architecture,  properly  so-called,  Rochester 
affords  few  examples,  such  as  may  once  have  existed,  nearly 
all  having  been  demolished  to  give  place  to  new  work. 
There  remain,  however,  scattered  throughout  the  city  many 
beautiful  doorways,  cornices  and  other  bits  of  detail,  and 
leaded  glass-work  of  fine  design  in  variety  and  profusion. 
In  the  older  residence  section  there  are  some  good  houses 
dating  from  that  period  when  the  Greek  influence  was  begin- 
ning to  supplant  the  Palladian,  and  of  these  I  may  mention 

a  doorway  of  the  Nehe- 
miah  Osborne  house 
(now  owned  and  occu- 
pied by  the  Security 
Trust  Company), 
which,  though  not 
strictly  Colonial,  is  yet 
a  most  original  and 
beautiful  application  of 
Greek  ornament  to 
American  conditions. 


^»e-4-^f6^4-^-^ 


In  Can  andaigua 
there  exist  conditions 
more  favorable  to  the 
preservation  of  its  past 
architecture  and  it  is 
accordingly  rich  in 
good  material  left  by 
the  ebbing  tide  of  pros- 
perity. The  village, 
situated  on  the  shore 
of  the  lake  of  the  same 
name,  is  one  of  the  old- 
est in  the  State  and  was 
long  regarded  as  the 
farthest  outpost  of  civi- 
lization. On  the  con- 
summation of  the 
Phelps  and  Gorham 
purchase  in  the  summer 
of  1788,  a  land-office, 
the  first  in  America, 
was  opened  there  by  Mr.  Phelps,  for  the  sale  of  the  land  to 
settlers,  who  shortly  came  swarming  from  the  east  to  buy  and 
occupy  it.  Early  in  the  town's  history,  Louis  Philippe,  es- 
caping from  the  storm  which  rocked  the  thrones  of  Europe, 
settled  in  Canandaigua  with  a  few  followers,  and,  in  the  heart 


Leaded-glass  Forms,  Rocliester,  N.  Y. 


COLONIAL    WORK  IN  THE   GENESEE    VALLEY. 


of  a  virgin  wilderness,  inhabited  by  fierce,  and  sometimes 
hostile,  savages,  established  a  toy  court  over  which  he  ruled, 
a  make-believe  monarch. 

The  village  consists  mainly  of  one  street,  but  that  is  a  mag- 
nificent   one,    lined 


The  Livingston  Park  Seminary,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 


and  intersected  by 
long  rows  of  large 
trees.  The  houses, 
old  and  stately,  set 
far  back  and  far 
apart,  each  in  the 
centre  of  well-kept 
grounds.  The  tone 
of  the  place  is  emi- 
nently  aristocratic 
and  this  is  enhanced 
by  the  existence  of 
two  large  private 
schools,  the  Granger 
Place  Seminary  for 
girls  and  the  Fort 
Hills  Academy  for 
boys,  each  occupying  old  and  interesting  buildings.  In  the 
Granger  Place  School  there  are  a  few  exquisite  examples 
of  Colonial  furniture  and  several  fine  mantels,  one  of  which 
is  shown  on  Plate  3,  Part  V,  and  another,  more  elabo- 
rate, Frank  Wallis  has  embodied  in  his  book  on  Colonial 
architecture. 

Perhaps  the  most  pretentious  house  in  the  village  is  the 
Greig  mansion,  designed  by  an  English  architect  early  in 
the  present  century  and  built  by  English  workmen  im- 
ported for  that  purpose.  Seen,  as  I  saw  it,  just  at  dusk  on 
a  winter  day,  untenanted,  in  the  midst  of  vast,  desolate  and 
gloomy  grounds,  it  was  the  most  forbidding  human  habita- 
tion conceivable,  and  this  impression  was  intensified  a 
hundred  fold  by  an  inspection  of  its  interior  by  the  light 
of  a  single  oil-lamp  as  I  followed  the  old  custodian  from 
one  great  echoing  room  to  another.  The  finish,  with  the  ex- 
ception  of   a   couple  of   bedroom  mantels,   is  hideous.     A 


Block  of  Houses,  Geneva,  N.  V. 

spiral  stairway  of  solid  mahogany  extends  from  the  base- 
ment to  an  observatory  on  the  roof,  from  which  a  fine  view 
of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding  country  may  be  obtained. 
My  guide  told  me  that  the  house  contains  more  than  sixty 
rooms  and  I  could  readily  believe  it,  for  it  is  practically  four 
stories  high,  and  correspondingly  large  in  extent.  Whether 
the  place  is  haunted  or  not  I  do  not  know,  but  it  haunts  me 


still.  There  certainly  never  was  a  house  offering  more  con- 
veniences to  ghosts  of  moderate  means  in  search  of  suitable 
apartments. 

At  Brighton  there  is  only  one  important  house,  the  Culver 
homestead,^  now  owned  and  occupied  by  Mr.  Howard  Smith. 
It  was  originally  a  tavern,  the  first  beyond  the  historic 
"  Eagle "   tavern    at   Rochester,   on    the   direct   road   from 

Niagara    Falls   to 
Albany. 

This  fact  ac- 
counts for  some 
peculiarities  of  its 
arrangement  and 
construction,  the 
second  story  of 
the  main  part  being  principally  given  over  to 
one  large  room  —  the  old  ball-room,  which 
extends  the  entire  length  of  the  front  of  the 
house,  with  nine  windows,  facing  in  three  directions,  and 
two  fireplaces,  one  on  each  side  of  the  entrance.  The 
ceiling  is  high  and  domed,  and  the  floor  sets  clear  of  the 
joists  so  as  to  make  it  springy  for  the  dancers  and  to  facili- 
tate the  execution  of  "  pigeon-wings,"  which  were  a  principal 
feature  of  many  of  the  old-time  dances. 

Geneva,  being  an  old  town  and  well  to  the  eastward,  con- 
tains many  interesting  Colonial  buildings.  The  oldest  is 
the  Tillman  block-  on  Exchange  Street,  and  architecturally 
considered,  it  is  perhaps  the  best,  following  as  it  does  the 
common  New  England  type  of  the  period  in  which  it  was 
built.  Of  quite  a  different  character  are  the  houses  which 
line  Main  Street,  the  "Faubourg  Saint-Germain"  of  the 
aristocratic  little  town.  Here  the  Colonial  style  has  under- 
gone important  modifications,  in  order  better  to  meet  unu- 
sual requirements.  The  street  skirts  the  summit  of  a  high 
bluff  overlooking  Seneca  Lake,  and  from  it  the  view  is  mag- 
nificent ;  and  the  houses  are  accordingly  provided  with 
ample  verandas,  not  only  in  the  first  story  but  in  the  second 
also.  It  is  interesting  to  compare  the  various  solutions  of 
the  difficulties  in  design,  involved  in  such  an  arrangement. 
The  most  popular  seems  to  have  been  some  modification  of 
the  Classic  portico  with  the  second-story  balcony  let-in  be- 
tween the  great  columns,  but  in  a  few  cases,  two  superim- 
posed orders  have  been  employed.  The  Folger  house,"* 
built  about  1825,  may  be  mentioned  as  the  best  example  of 
this  class.     Here  by  making  the  second-story  piazza  three 


One  of  the  Hobart  College  Buildings,  Geneva,  N.  Y. 

spaces  wide,  above  five  spaces  in  the  first,  a  fine  pyramidal 
effect  is  obtained. 

The  Hobart  College  buildings  are  on  Main  Street  at  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  The  first  one  was  built  in  182 1  and  the 
second,    identical    in  appearance,    in    1837.     Though    aside 


1  Plate  I,  Part  I  and  Plate    8,  Part  V. 

2  Plate  9.    Part  V. 
opiate  9,  Part  III. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


from  the  subject  of  Colonial  architecture,  I  cannot  refrain 
from  an  admiring  mention  of  the  beautiful  English  Gothic 
church  built  by  Upjohn  during  our  best   Gothic  period,  and 


Ellicott  Hall,  Batavia,  N.  Y. 

worthy  to  rank  in  the  same  high  class  as  Grace  and  Trinity 
of  New  York. 

Batavia,  though  half  as  many  miles  to  the  west  of  the 
Genesee  as  Geneva  is  to  the  east  of  it,  was  settled  at  about 
the  same  time.  In  1800  the  village  was  surveyed  for  a 
town,  and  in  1802  it  was  made  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
county  through  the  efforts  of  one  Joseph  Ellicott,  a  surveyor 
and  agent  of  the  Holland  Land  Company,  and  the  principal 
pioneer  of  the  region  immediately  west  of  the  Genesee 
River.  The  old  land-ofhce '  and  the  first  court-house  and  jail 
are  still  standing.  The  former  is  unoccupied  and  ruinous, 
but  is  soon  to  be  put  in  good  condition  and  converted  into  a 
sort  of  historical  museum.  The  latter,  Ellicott  Hall,  has 
suffered  many  alterations,  having  been  used  in  turn  as  a 
court-house,  land-office,  a  fire-insurance  office,  a  roller-skat- 
ing rink  and  a  storehouse  for  second-hand  furniture,  which 
it  remains.  It  was  built  in  1802  and  was  paid  for  in  land, 
the  builder  receiving  one  acre  for  every  day's  labor.  Imme- 
diately beside  it,  formerly  stood  a  house  to  which  Gen.  Win- 
field  Scott  was  taken,  to  recover  from  wounds  received  in 
the  battles  of  Chippewa  and  Lundy's  Lane,  in  the  War  of 
1812  ;  near  by  was  a  tavern,  Keye's  stand,  which  served  as 
officers'  headquarters  throughout  the  same  war. 

The  early  history  of   the  region  round    about  Batavia  is 

i' 


The  Gary  House,  Batavia,  N.  Y. 

mainly  the  history  of  the  Holland  Purchase.  The  land 
bought  from  the  Indians  by  Messrs.  Phelps  and  Gorham, 
through  their  failure  to  carry  out  their  part  of  the  agreement, 
reverted  to  its  original  holder,  the  State  of  Massachusetts. 
The  part  lying  west  of  the  Genesee  river  was  then  bought  by 
'  Plate  33,  Part  I. 


Robert  Morris,  who  sold  it  in  1792-3  to  an  association  of 
Dutch  and  American  capitalists,  called  the  Holland  Land 
Company,  he  still  retaining  a  part,  under  the  title  of  the 
Morris  Reserve.     In  1797,  the  Company  employed  Joseph 


House  at  Canandaigua,  N.  Y. 

Ellicott  to  survey  their  purchase  and  to  open  offices  for  the 
sale  of  tiie  land  to  settlers,  who  shortly  came  flocking  from 
the  east  and  south.  As  before  stated,  and  as  the  name 
implies,  the  Holland  Company  was  composed  largely  of 
Dutchmen,  and  there  are  one  or  two  amusing  incidents 
recorded  in  the  history  of  the  Purchase,  which  are  as 
delightfully  characteristic  of  the  race  as  those  narrated  in 
Diedrich  Knickerbocker's  immortal  history.  Here  is  one  of 
them  :  In  the  first  apportioning  of  the  land,  for  some  reason 
not  readily  apparent,  four  members  of  the  Willink  family 
were  given  their  choice  of  300,000  acres  in  any  part  of  the 
Purchase.  They  thereupon  located  it  in  a  square  found  in 
the  south-east  corner,  which  was  absolutely  the  most  undesir- 
able portion  of  all,  from  an  agricultural  point-of-view,  for  no 
other  reason  than  that  it  was  nearest  to  Philadelphia ! 

The  pioneer  history  of  the  Purchase  is  barren  of  romantic 
interest — of  "hair-breadth  'scapes,  and  stirring  accidents  by 
flood  and  field;"  but  there  is  at  least  one  story,  which, 
tiiough  lacking  in  blood-stirring  and  hair-raising  elements, 
yet  strangely  affects  the  imagination  and  lingers  long  in  the 
memory,  like  some  minor  air.  It  is  still  told  to  children 
around  many  firesides  and  is  called  the  "  Story  of  the  Lost 
Boy." 

In  1806,  one  David  Tolles,  a  farmer  living  near  Batavia, 
sent  his  son  to  watch  that  no  cattle  strayed  into  a  newly- 


Le  Roy  House  (rear),  Le  Roy,  N.  V. 

planted  field,  there  being  no  roadside  fences  in  those  days. 
The  lad  discharged  his  du'y  faithfully:  when  the  animals 
appeared,  he  followed  them  out  into  the  woods,  but  he 
never  came  out  again.  The  whole  countryside  was  aroused 
and  search  parties  organized,  but  the  mystery  of  his  disap- 
pearance was  never  solved.     On  the  second  day  of  the  search 


COLONIAL    WORK  IN   THE   GENESEE    VALLEY. 


some  one  discovered  his  tracks;  on  the  third,  they  found 
where  he  had  slept,  and  the  bundle  of  fagots  which  had 
formed  his  pillow;  on  the  fourth  day,  they  came  upon  a 
little  brook  where  he  had  washed  some  roots, —  the  water 
was  yet  roily  with  his  presence, — but  he  had  fled  at  their 
approach  and  further  search  proved  unavailing. 

It  is  a  sad  litile  story,  but  the  sequel  is  sadder  still  :  From 
that  time  until  the  day  of  his  death,  the  father  of  the  Lost 
Boy  became  a  wanderer  in  the  vain  search  for  his  son.  If 
a  rumor  reached  him  of  a  wild  boy  having  been  seen  in 
Pennsylvania,  or  Ohio,  or  in  places  even  more  remote,  he 
would  set  out  on  foot,  only  to  be  disappointed  at  his  jour- 
ney's end,  or  sent  upon  some  equally  fruitless  quest.  Against 
the  plain  and  commonplace  background  of  the  times,  the 
figure  of  this  sad,  mad,  remorseful  father  looms  large  and 
black.  One  cannot  but  picture  him  a  very  Lear  of  the 
wilderness,  poor  and  alone,  penetrating  on  foot  the  hungry 
fastnesses  of  regions  little  known,  in  search  of  the  Lost  Boy, 
who,  if  alive  at  all,  was  a  boy  no  longer. 

The  village  of  Le  Roy  contains,  at  least,  one  house  of 
more  than  common  interest.  This  is  the  Le  Roy  mansion, 
at  one  time  the  residence  of  the  family  for  which  the  place 
was  named.  It  was  built  some  time  previous  to  1812,  and 
was  originally  a  land-office  of  the  Holland  Company,  of 
which  Herman  Le  Roy  was  an  agent.  In  1821  it  was  re- 
modelled and  enlarged,  and  occupied  by  his  three  sons  and 
a  daughter,  Catherine  Bayard  Le  Roy;  and  here,  in  1828, 


and  you  will  have  formed  a  fairly  accurate  idea  of  this  part 
of  the  Genesee  country. 

The  curtain  of  history  rolling  up,    reveals  this  beautiful 
valley  the  scene  of  a  bloody  drama — its  denizens  plunged  in 


The  Piffard  House,  Piffard,  N.  V. 

came  the  great  Daniel  Webster,  courting  her.  They  were 
married  the  following  year,  she  being  his  second  wife. 
Shortly  after  the  wedding  a  grand  reception  wis  held  at  the 
old  house.  Webster  seems  to  have  been  fond  of  the  place 
and  often  visited  it  with  his  wife  in  after  years. 

Travelling  in  the  vicinity  of  Avon,  Geneseo  ami  Mount 
Morris,  one  can  understand  why  the  Indians  gave  to  that 
region  the  name  of  the  Beautiful  Valley.  It  is  like  a  great 
park.  Gently  sloping,  wooded  hills  merge  imperceptibly 
into  cultivated  lowlands  through  \\h;c!i  the  shallow  river 
flows,  sequestered  in  an  avenue  of  foliage.  The  plain  is  di- 
versified by  trees  and  groves,  and  good  straight  roads,  look- 
ing like  yellow  ribbons  on  the  prim  green  dress  of  Nature, 
their  ends  concealed  among  the  hills  —  lost  in  the  tangle 
of  her  hair.  Dignified  old  houses  appear  here  and  there, 
crowning  the  summit  of  some  eminence,  or  half  hidden  amid 
the  trees  of  the  parks  wiih  which  they  are  engirt  —  their  air 
of  aloofness  atoned  for  by  the  always  wide-open  gates,  which 
seem  to  extend  a  perpetual  invitation  to  the  traveller. 
Every  turn  of  every  road  reveals  new  vistas,  new  surprises. 
The  rawness  and  newness,  which  is  so  constant  a  character- 
istic of  most  of  the  scenery  of  our  agricultural  districts,  seem 
here  to  have  been  trained  quite  away  from  the  landscape, 
without  giving  place  to  mere  smugness  —  the  clean-shaven 
rhilistine  face  of  a  too  great  prosperity.  Nature  is  neither 
master  nor  servant,  but  the  friend  of  man.  Imagine,  if  you 
please,  a  park,  from  the  wise  hand  of  Olmsted,  we  will  say, 
enormously  enlarged  and  made  for  use  as  well  as  pleasure, 


Old  Hamplon  (now  destroyed). 

the  most  terrible  kind  of  warfare.  During  the  Revolution,  a 
division  of  our  army,  under  Sullivan,  penetrated  thus  far  into 
what  was  then  a  virgin  wilderness,  fighting  the  hostile  Iro- 
quois and  setting  fire  to  their  villages.  Just  before  the  ex- 
pedition reached  the  river,  it  met  with  its  most  determined 
resistance  and  sustained  its  severest  losses,  chief  among  which 
was  the  capture  of  Lieutenant  Thomas  Boyd  and  his  party 
by  the  Indians.  That  brave  officer  they  tortured  and  put 
to  death  in  a  manner  too  sickeningly  horrible  to  be  related. 
One  prefers,  rather,  to  dwell  upon  the  valley's  later  history, 
which  was  a  singularly  happy  and  peaceful  one. 

Many  of  the  early  settlers  came  from  Maryland.  They 
were  not  the  ordinary  type  of  pioneer,  but  men  of  parts, 
possessing  wealth  and  culture,  and  belonging  to  a  class  — 
now,  unhappily,  extinct  —  of  which  Washington  and  JefTer- 
son  are  representatives.  They  left  so  great  an  impress  on 
the  place  of  their  adoption  that  their  influence  is  potent 
still,  to-day,  and  this  accoun's  in  some  measure  for  the  feel- 
ing one  sometimes  has  of  a  civilization  older  than  mere  dates 
warrant.  For  these  first  settlers  did  not  begin  anew,  in 
pioneer  fashion,  but  resumed,  under  new  conditions  and 
amid  different  surroundings,  the  lives  to  which  they  were 
accustomed.  They  built  houses  like  (he  Southern  houses 
(sometimes  even  to  the  office,  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
main  building,  where  the  business  of  the  estate  was  trans- 
acted), they  kept  slaves,  whom  they  had  brought  with  them, 
and  each  family  had  a  carriage  in  which  its  members  went 
visiting,  in  true  Southern  fashion  —  sometimes  driving  forty 
miles  to  dine  with  friends. 

The  descendants  of  these  people  —  the  Wadsworths,  the 
Fitzhughs,  the  Carrolls,  the  Piffards  —  own  and  occupy  the 


I'"urinlure  in  Possession  of  Miss  A.  M.  Piffard. 

land  to-day  and  still  cherish  tho  memory  and  keep  alive  the 
tradition  of  those  early  days.  But  in  the  heart  of  New  York 
State,  time  cannot  be  made  to  turn  backward  nor  stand  still. 
The  "smart  set"  now  invade  the  valley  annually,  and  dis- 
seminate an  atmosphere  oi  Jin  de  siecle  worldliness,  which. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


mingling  with  what  survives  of  the  Colonial  spirit,  imparts  to  painted,  Alpine-scenery-adorned  cast-iron  safe  to  stand  be- 
the  social  life  of  the  place  a  peculiar  and  indefinable  quality,  hind  him.  The  table-cloths  do  not  bear  on  their  surface 
Perhaps  no  other  part  of  America  is  so  like  rural  England  in  maps  of  the  Dark  Continent ;  there  are  no  flies  in  the  milk, 
many  ways,  and  it  is  so,  not  on  account  of  any  particular  nor  dish-water  in  the  coffee.  The  bed-sheets  are  not  winding- 
Anglomania  on  the  part  of  any  portion  of  its  inhabitants,  shrouds  with  grave-damp  on  tliem;  no  transoms,  like  the 
but  because  similar  causes  are  bound  to  produce  similar  ever-open  eye  of  Mormon,  stare  one  into  wakefulness  all 
effects.  As  stated  before,  there  is  a  class  here  correspond-  night — in  short,  it  is  blessedly  unlike  a  hotel  at  all,  but 
ing  in  many  particulars  to  tlie  nobility  of  England  :  it  is  more,  as  the  name  implies,  like  an  PJiglish  tavern.  Perhaps 
composed  of  hereditary  land-owners  who  lease  the  major  to  me  it  has  an  exaggerated  charm,  because  the  Inn  is  an 
portion  of  their  land  to  farmers,  and,  living  upon  their  estates  old  Colonial  house  —  the  Ayrault  mansion'  —  remodelled 
the  greater  part  of  the  year,  in  every  way  identify  their  in-  and  enlarged. 

terests  with  those  of  tlie  rural  population.  These  men  lead  At  either  end  of  the  main  street  in  Geneseo  are  the  en- 
large lives:  are  socially  and  politically  important ;  have  trances  to  the  estates  of  G.  W.  and  W.  A.  Wadsworth.  The 
many  friends.     So,  at  certain  seasons,  when  nature  is  at  its  latter  occupies  the  homestead.     Few  traces  of  the  original 


loveliest,  their 
houses  fill  with 
guests  from  abroad, 
and  it  is  then  that 
the  resemblance  to 
English  country- 
house  life  becomes 
most  marked.  Fox- 
hunting completes 
the  picture,  and  this 
deserves  more  than 
a  passing  mention. 

The  Genesee  Val- 
ley Hunt  is  one  of 
the  oldest  and  best- 
known  in  the  coun- 
try, and,  unlike 
some  others,  the 
chase  is  after  bona- 
fide  foxes.  The 
season  opens  about 
the  end  of  Septem- 
ber, and  continues 
into  the  winter. 
The  meets  have  the 
reputation  of  being 
very  sportsman-like 
events,  and  not 
merely  a  new  kind 
of  "function"  for 
the  display  of  red 
coats  and  bob-tailed 
horses.  The  runs 
are  increasingly  long 
and  severe,  so  that 
no  women,  except 
the  most  intrepid, 
now  participate. 
Anything     on    four 


Congregalional  Churcli,  Canandaiguaj  N.  Y.     Bcfure  alteralioii  in  1S99. 


house  remain  — 
exteriorly,  at  least 
—  it  is  so  smothered 
in  modern  Colonial 
additions.  The 
grounds  surround- 
ing both  residences 
are  charmmg;  ex- 
hibiting the  best 
taste  in  landscape- 
gardening.  A 
grove,  in  each  case, 
screens  the  house 
from  the  road.  A 
drive  winds  through 
it  to  the  slightly  ele- 
vated clearing  where 
the  house  stands. 
Tlie  formal  garden- 
ing, what  there  is  of 
it,  is  here  —  afford- 
ing just  the  neces- 
sary transition  be- 
tween the  natural  and 
the  architectural. 

The  Fitzhugh 
house,  "Hampton," 
as  it  was  called,  was 
destroyed  by  fire 
ten  or  twelve  years 
ago.  It  is  said  to 
iiave  been  one  of 
the  finest,  as  it  was 
one  of  the  oldest 
iiouses  in  the  valley. 
It  was  built  by  Wil- 
liam Fitzhugh,  a 
Mary  lander,  about 
1815,  and  it  had  for 


legs  is  at  liberty  to  follow  the  hounds,  and  the  farmers  of  its  most  distinctive  feature  one  of  those  high,  cool  porticos 

the  vicinity  are  sometimes  the  most  enthusiastic  huntsmen,  which  are  so  characteristic  of  southern  Colonial  homes. 

The  travelling  public,  however  little  it  may  be  interested  in  A  drive  of   three  miles  from   Geneseo,  across   the   flats, 

fox-hunting,  is  yet  indebted  to  the  institution  for  one  thing,  brings  one  to  the  village  of  Piffard,  where  there  is  an  interest- 

at  least,  and  that  is  the  Big  Tree  Inn  at  Geneseo,  the  exist-  ing  house,  inhabited  still  by  members  of   the  family  from 

ence  of  which  would  scarcely  be  possible  were  it  not  for  the  which  the  place  was  named.     Better  than   the  houfe  itself 


annual  influx  of  the  fox-hunting  contingent,  when  its  few 
rooms  are  warred  for  by  Buffalonians  and  New  Yorkers. 
Though  supported  principally  by  this  patronage,  tlie  Big 
Tree  Inn  shines  for  all,  and  few  villages  can  boast  of  a 
prettier,  neater  or  cleaner  little  hostelry.     The  traditional 


are  the  many  old,  rare  and  beautiful  things  which  it  con- 
tains ;  it  is  a  veritable  museum  of  antique  furniture  and 
china  and  other  heirlooms  of  a  past  having  its  roots  deep  in 
the  France  and  England  of  a  former  century. 

In  this  article,  together  with  the  accompanying  drawings,  I 


accessories  of  a  country  hotel  are  all  conspicuous  by  their  have  given  a  fairly  representative,  though  far  from  complete, 
absence.  There  is  no  clerk  behind  the  desk,  simply  because  summary  of  the  Colonial  work  of  the  Genesee  country, 
there  is  no  desk  for  him  to  be  behind ;  nor  is  there  any  hand- 


1  Pl.'ite  5,    I'ai-t  V. 


COLOXIAL    WORK  AT  SACKETTS  HARBOR. 


Although  meagre  in  amount  and  inferior  in  quality,  com- 
pared with  that  of  the  older  and  richer  districts  of  the  South 
and  East,  it  has,  nevertheless,  seemed  well  worth  preserving 
a  record  of  it,  since  it  possesses,  in  full  measure,  those  quali- 
ties which  make  the  style  such  a  rebuke  to  almost  everything 
that  we  have  done  (in  domestic  architecture,  at  least)  since 
its  decline.  These  qualities  are,  briefly :  good  sense,  sim- 
plicity, elegance  and  refinement  of  detail,  and,  more  than  all 
else,  beauty  of  proportion — the  quality  in  which  the  work  of 


the  architects  of  to-day  is  most  conspicuously  lacking.  If 
we  are  to  have,  in  any  sense,  a  renaissance  of  the  Colonial 
style,  let  it  be  entered  upon  with  greater  knowledge,  and 
more  careful  attention  to  the  principles  upon  which  the 
Colonial  builders  worked,  and  by  means  of  which  they 
achieved  such  admirable  results.  It  was  principally  to  this 
end — that  of  furnishing  additional  data  for  the  study  of  the 
style  —  that  the  present  work  was  undertaken. 

Claude  Fayette  Bragdon. 


Colonial  Work  at  Sacketfs  Harbor. 


Madison  Barracks 


SACKETT'S  Harbor  is  chiefly  notable  as  an  important 
military  station  on  our  northern  frontier.  It  occu- 
pies a  high,  wind-swept  bluff  overlooking  Lake  On- 
tario. A  little  bay  sweeps  in  and  forms  a  natural 
harbor,  which  is  further  protected  by  a  long,  low  breakwater, 
on  which  grows  a  line  of  stunted  willows,  leaning  all  one 
way  —  mute  evidences  of  the  force  and  direction  of  the  pre- 
vailing winds.  On  one  side  of  the  bay  are  the  barracks  —  a 
group  of  stone  buildings,  old  and  low,  flanking  three  sides 
of  a  well-kept  parade-ground,  the  fourth  being  open  to  the 
water's  edge,  where  a  few  shapeless  mounds  of  earth  mark 
the  location  of  an  old  pioneer  fort.  Inland,  behind  the  bar- 
racks, is  a  cemetery,  where  lie  buried  upwards  of  fifteen 
hundred  nameless  soldiers,  killed  in  battles  of  the  War  of 
1812.  The  first  gun  of  that  war  was  fired  from  the  promon- 
tory on  the  other  side  of  the  bay.  The  battlefield  is  now 
an  unkempt  pasture  in  which  the  village  street  almost  loses 
itself  and  then  recovers  to  take  a  final  plunge  over  the  rocks 
into  the  lake. 

This  first  battle  seems  not  to  have  been  a  great  affair,  but 
in  the  accounts  of  it  one  hears  —  in  the  hotel  or  barber-shop, 
from  the  mouths  of  oldest  inhabitants  —  there  are  pleasing 
siiggestions  of  British  swagger  and  of  Yankee  grit  and 
resource.  Five  men-of-war  (so  goes  the  story),  carrying  some 
eighty  guns  and  fully  manned,  suddenly  appeared  before  the 
frightened  inhabitants  of  the  little  town,  who  had  for  their 
defence  only  the  little  brig  '■^Oneida"  of  seventeen  guns, 
under  Lieutenant  Woolsey  —  but  it  was  David  and  Goliath 
over  again,  as  the  event  proved.  Prevented  from  escape  by 
water,  Woolsey  and  his  sailing-master  landed  with  a  com- 
pany of  marines  and  manned  a  thirty-two-pounder  on  the 
bluff.     They  had   no  shot  large  enough  for  the  gun,  but. 


equal  to  tiie  emergency,  the  twenfy-four-pound  balls  were 
wr;ipped  to  size  with  cuttings  from  carpets  and,  when  these 
were  gone,  the  flannel  petticoats  of  the  women.  With 
these  unique  projectiles  the  British  fleet  was  disabled,  and 
actually  driven  from  the  waters. 

In  the  war  which  followed.  Sackett's  Harbor  was  a  centre 
of  activity.  Here  the  army  was  organized  and  the  navy  con- 
structed. It  was  from  this  point  tiiat  Gen.  Zebulon  Pike  — 
he  who  gave  Pike's  Peak  its  naine  —  started  on  that  secret 
and  perilous  expedition  in  which  he  lost  his  life,  and  his  body 
now  lies  in  the  old  burying-ground  behind  the  barracks. 
Nor  is  Pike's  the  only  illustrious  name  associated  with  the 
place.  Gen.  Jacob  Brown  made  it  his  headquarters  while 
he  commanded  the  forces  on  the  Canadian  frontier.  Here 
lived  Dr.  Samuel  Guthrie,  one  of  the  discoverers  of  chloro- 
form and  the  inventor  of  the  percussion  compound  for  fire- 


On  tlie  liattlefield. 

arms  which  superseded  flints.  Grant  was  stationed  here  for 
a  short  period  after  his  Mexican  campaign,  and  there  is  a 
barrack-room  story  about  a  bet  he  made  and  won  —  that  he 
could  walk  around  the  long  public  square  at  Watertown 
before  another  man  could  eat  an  army  cracker,  without 
water. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


In  former  times  the  little  bay  was  filled  with  shipping  and  ure  often  gains  rather  than  loses  by  such  enforced  simplicity, 

Sackett's  was  a  place  of  commercial  as  well  as  military  im-  just  as  "an  honest  tale  speeds  best,  being  plainly  told." 
portance,  as  the  ruined  old  stone  mills  and  an  abandoned  Although  there  is  much  good  and  interesting  work  beside, 

railroad  even  now  testify.     Those  palmy  days  are  now  long  there  are  only  three  houses  in  any  way  deserving  the  title  of 

past,  and  as  there  has  been  no  subsequent  revival  of  pros-  "  mansion,"  and  to  the  task  of  preserving  some  sort  of   a 

perity,  the  town  remains  to-day  very  much  as  it  was  then —  record  of   tliem,  the  present  writer  devoted  a  few  days  of 

happily  free  from  the  blighting  and  vulgarizing  influence  of  a  short  vacation  spent  in  the  vicinity  in  the  early  nineties. 


the  "great  American 
hustler."  The  mili- 
tary atmosphere  is  all 
that  remains  to  re- 
mind one  of  its  de- 
parted greatness,  but 
this  is  all  pervasive. 
Every  vista  contains 
a  blue  uniform  ;  dogs 
are  numerous  and 
barbers  prosperous ; 
the  children  have  a 
soldierly  bearing  and 
one  even  fancies  that 
the  little  brick  and 
wooden  stores  elbow 
one  another  along  the 
sidewalk  of  the  prin- 
cipal street  like  a 
company  of  raw  re- 
cruits on  parade. 


.'■■'%,f- 


The  Sackett  House. 


This  work,  if  valua- 
ble, was  timely,  as 
one  of  the  three  was 
already  falling  to 
pieces  through  age 
and  neglect,  and 
another  had  recently 
undergone  extensive 
alterations  in  order 
to  more  nearly  fulfil 
the  requirements  of 
modern  life. 

The  Sackett  house 
was  built  in  1803  by 
August  Sackett,  from 
whom  the  town  re- 
ceived its  name.  It 
is  square  in  plan, 
with  a  long  wing  to 
the  rear.  The  second 
story   is    lighted    en- 


There  is  society  of  a  certain  sort,  as  is  inevitable  where  tirely  by  dormers,  and  the  exterior  is  thereby  rendered  very 
idle  men  and  women  of  the  commanding  class  are  brought  effective  by  reason  of  the  ample  space  above  the  tops  of  the 
together.  It  is  made  up  of  officers  and  their  wives  and  first-story  windows.  The  low,  broad  fa9ade,  with  its  well- 
daughters  and  a  few  remaining  representatives  of  the  old  proportioned  columns  and  pediment,  seen  from  the  main 
families  still  living  in  the  houses  built  by  their  grandfathers  street  above  the  large,  old-fashioned  garden,  produces  that 
—  but  these,  too,  are  military,  and  the  number  of    retired  rarest  of  earthly  things  —  a  genuine  architectural  emotion. 


colonels   one    may  meet   of   an    afternoon    brings   to   mind 
Gilbert's  witty  line, 

"  When  cvorybody's  somebody,  nobody's  anybody." 

With  the  summer  weather  people  come  here  from  the  great 
world  outside,  infusing  a  new  spirit  into  the  officers'  balls 


The  interior  is  less  interesting.  There  is  very  little  wood- 
work, and  that  little  is  quite  lacking  in  refinement.  This 
house  served  as  a  hospital  during  the  War  of  1812,  and 
blood-stains  may  yet  be  seen  on  the  upstairs  floors  —  so  it  is 
said. 

The  Woolsey  mansion,  now  owned  and  occupied  by  Col. 

and  other  garrison      Walter  B.  Camp,  was  built  in  1816  by  Commodore  Woolsey. 

festivities.      Then      The  knocker  on  the  front  door  bears,  quite  appropriately, 

there  is  tennis   on      the  shape  of  an  American 


the  parade-ground 
and  yachting  on 
the  bay;  teas  and 
card-parties  are 
given  in  the  great 
old  houses,  the 
dingy  portraits  on 
whose  walls  looked 
down  perhaps  on 
not  so  very  differ- 
ent scenes  in  times 
long  gone. 

It  is  of  these 
houses  —  some  of 
them  —  I  wish  par- 
ticularly to  speak. 
Aside  from  their 
historical  associa- 
tions, they  are  intrinsically  excellent  in  architecture.     This, 


Tlie  Wuolsey  House. 


eagle,  and  behind  the 
door  there  is  a  row  of  big 
wooden  pegs,  where,  we 
are  told,  the  Commodore 
used  always  to  hang  his 
hat  on  entering.  In  plan, 
the  house  is  a  departure 
from  the  usual  type,  the 
hall  being  at  the  side  of 
the  main  part,  instead 
of  in  the  centre;  there  are 
two  rooms  adjoining,  and 
the  wings  contain  two 
more,  with  pantries  and 
the  like.  As  originally 
built,  there  were  but  two 
bedrooms   on   the  second 


From  Entrance  to  "  tlie  Brick.' 


Hoor,    the    servants'    sleeping-rooms    being    located    in    the 

basement, 
though  lacking  much  of  the  richness  and  elaboration  of  some  The  old  Commodore's  love  of  formality  and  symmetry  is 

of  the  Eastern  and  Southern  Colonial  work,  is  characterized  by  apparent  in  the  laying-out  of  the  grounds  and  out-buildings, 
great  elegance  of  proportion  and  refinement  of  detail.  This  The  house  sets  far  back  from  the  road,  and  is  approached 
lack  of  excessive  ornamentation,  though  probably  dictated  by  through  a  central  gateway  flanked  on  each  side  by  smaller 
motives  of  economy,  is,  on  the  whole,  fortunate,  for  architect-      ones,  for  pedestrians.     The  drive  is   lined  with   trees   and 


COLOXIAL    WORK  AT  SACKETT'S   HARBOR. 


9 


shrubbery,  and  the  white  central  pavilion  of  the  house,  with 
its  slenderly  pillared  portico,  is  thus  seen  at  the  end  of  a 
green  vista. 

Nowhere  is  anything  allowed  to  interefere  with  symmetry, 
the  rear  being  as  perfect  in  this  respect  as  the  front.  A  few 
rods  behind  the  house  a  fence  divides  the  lawn  from  the 
garden,  and  this  is  made  another  opportunity  for  a  piece  of 
formal  grouping,  charming  in  its  eiTect.  On  one  side  is  the 
well-house  and  on  the  other  the  smoke-house,  both  alike,  of 
stone,  with  segment-shaped  roofs :  between  the  two,  sur- 
mounting a  low  wall,  is  a  white  fence  of  delicate  design,  with 
frequent  posts.  In  the  centre  this  fence  forms  a  semicircle, 
in  the  middle  of  which  is  the  garden-gate,  flanked  by  two 
large  posts:  the  path  leads  to  a  summer-house,  wiiich  occu- 
pies the  centre  of  the  garden. 

Some  of  the  old  furniture  still  remains  in  the  house, 
notably  a  number  of  tables  of  very  graceful  outline,  beauti- 
fully inlaid. 

The  Camp  mansion,  or  "The  Brick,"  as  it  is  called,  was 
built  in  1816  by  Col.  Elisha  Camp,  an  officer  of  artillery  in 
the  War  of  1812.  It  is  now  tenanted,  from  June  till  Octo- 
ber, by  the  family  of  his  granddaughter,  Mrs.  Col.  Mason. 
It  is  a  most  substantial  structure,  built  of  brick  brought  from 
England  for  the  purpose.  The  cellar-bottom  is  formed  by 
the  living  rock.  The  plan  is  of  the  common  Colonial  type  : 
there  is  a  wide  hall  in  the  centre,  with  two  rooms  on  each 
side  and  a  one-story  addition  to  the  rear  overlooking  the 
garden,  which  contains  what  used  to  be  the  children's  rooms 
and  nursery.  The  main  hall  is  divided  into  vestibule,  re- 
ception-hall and  stair-hall  by  means  of  arches  with  elliptical, 
fan-light  transoms  above.  These  arches  contain  mahogany 
doors  in  four  folds,  the  two  central  ones  being  used  on  ordi- 
nary occasions ;  while  in  the  hot  days  of  summer,  or  when 
the  house  is  thrown  open  for  purposes  of  entertainment,  all 
are  folded  back  out  of  the  way  against  the  wall,  making  of 
the  hall  one  large  apartment.  This  seems  a  good  solution 
of  a  much-vexL-d  problem  in  house  planning :  to  obtain 
necessary  divisions  between  the  parts  of  the  hall  possessing 


different  functions,  without  impairing  its  spaciousness  or 
embarrassing  the  movements  of  a  crowd  of  guests. 

Some  of  the  rooms  remain  just  as  they  were  when  the 
house  was  built.  The  same  carpet  has  been  on  the  parlor 
floor  for  over  seventy  years ;  it  was  woven  in  England  to  fit 
the  room,  and  is  of  such  good  material  that  even  now, 
though  used  constantly,  it  shows  few  signs  of  wear. 

The  original  "  scenic  "  paper  is  on  the  walls ;  on  either 
side  of  the  fireplace  are  graceful  wall-tables,  semi-elliptical 
in  shape,  and  between  the  windows  there  is  an  old  upright 
piano  in  mahogany  and  gold,  the  first  ever  brought  into  the 
country,  and  considered  a  grand  and  wonderful  affair  when 
it  was  new.  Some  of  the  upstairs  bedrooms  are  extremely 
bright  and  pretty.  There  are  old-fashioned,  high-post  bed- 
steads, with  canopies  above,  and  dressing-tables  of  quaint 
and  now  obsolete  patterns.  Woodwork  and  draperies  are 
all  pure  white,  the  door-panels  alone  being  tinted  a  light 
blue,  with  good  effect.  There  is  a  great  attic  over  the  entire 
house,  lighted  at  the  ends  by  enormous  semicircular  windows. 
Here  are  stored  old  beds,  clocks  and  spinning-wheels,  and 
trunks  and  chests  and  boxes,  among  which  one  might  de- 
lightedly rummage  away  the  hours  of  the  longest  of  rainy 
Sundays  —  if  the  opportunity  offered. 

These  few  random  notes  may  add  interest  to  the  accom- 
panying sketches  and  measured-drawings.'  Young  architects 
and  draughtsmen  throughout  the  country  are  apt  to  complain 
of  the  complete  lack  of  sources  of  architectural  inspiration 
in  their  environment,  while,  perhaps,  at  their  very  doors  are 
unheeded  examples  of  a  refined  and  even  scholarly  treat- 
ment of  wood  —  the  very  material  in  which  nine-tenths  of 
their  designing  must  needs  be  done.  If  such  would  hunt  up 
old  houses  in  their  vicinity,  and  by  measurements  and 
sketches  convey  to  paper  what  they  find  valuable  therein, 
they  would  not  only  be  individually  profited  thereby,  but 
would  also  be  assisting  to  preserve  a  lasting  record  of  the 
now  fast-diminishing  remnants  of  the  only  good  and  char- 
acteristic architecture  this  country  has  yet  succeeded  in 
producing.  Claude  Fayette  Bragdon. 


^'^^^>^®^=^p*^ 


TiiK  Jan   Maiiik    IIdusk,   Ruttkrdam,  N.  V.  —  This  house,  which  Oi.n  HousK  at  Madison,  N.  J.  —  Although  we  know  nothing  about 

we  believe  is  still  standing,  was  built,  in  1706,  for  use  in  the  first  jjlaco  as  this  building,  neither  its  history,  nor  its  age,  it  is,  nevertheless,  typical 

a  farmstead,  and  in  the  second,  as  a  fort  to  which  the  owner  and  his  of  a  class  of  houses  which  are  found  in  considerable  numbers  in  northern 

neighbors  could  retire  in  time  of  need.     The  building  is  22' x  .)S',  with  New  Jersey.     It  is  here  shown  because  it  seems  to  furnish  a  real  con- 


The  Jan  Mabie   Houst;,  Rotterdam,  N.  V. 

walls  about  three  feet  thick,  of  rough  mountain  stone,  laid  at  the  time  of 
building  in  clay.  At  a  later  day  the  joints  have  been  raked  and  pointed 
with  lime  mortar.  The  lower  story  is  about  eii;ht  feel  in  the  clear,  the  ceil- 
ing beams,  \2"x  i^",  acting  as  tie-beams  piiniing  the  feet  of  llie  rafteis 
together  and  forming  with  them  an  Cfpiilateral  truss.  —  Kli. 


' Plates  25,  26,  I'art  II. 


Old  House  at  Madison,  N.  J. 

necting-link  between  the  type-plan  of  the  southern  builders  and  that  of  their 
northern  fellows.  The  ti^eatment  of  the  roof  of  the  central  building  dis- 
tinctly shows  its  descent  from  the  bnililings  of  the  Dutch  Colonist,  while 
the  wings  upon  either  side  as  distinctlyrecall  the  wing  galleries,  with 
which  the  scjuthern  designer  habitually  connected  his  main  house  with  the 
end  |)avilions,  often  devoted  on  the  one  side  to  bachelor  apartments  and 
on  the  other  to  the  kitchen  or  house  servants.  —  Ed. 


The  Mappa  House,  Trenton,  N.  Y. 


[Date,  1809-1812.] 


T 


*HE  deadly  hostility  between 
the  Patriots  and  the  Tories, 
and  the  raids  of  the  Indians, 
put  a  stop  to  all  improve- 
ments in  the  Mohawk  Valley  and  ad- 
joining country  until  about  the  year 

1775- 

In   1793,  Garrett   Boone,  the  first 

agent  of  the  Holland  Land  Company 

in  this  vicinity,  reached  the  fording 

^  place  of  the  Mohawk  at  Fort  Schu}'- 

1  .  ler    (now    Utica),    near    the    place 

P        Main  Cornice  ,  .,  ^    t~v       c   1  1    ^ 

I  where   the    present   Deerfield    turn- 

'  pike  crosses  the  river,  on  his  way  to 

survey,  prior  to  purchasing,  a  tract  of  land  known  as  "Ser- 
vices' Patent."  From  Fort  Schuyler  the  land  extended  in  a 
northerly  direction.  Through  the  virgin  forest  Boone  blazed 
the  trees  for  the  line  of  a  future  road. 

Reaching  a '•  sheltered  valley  where  two  creeks  come  to- 
gether," he  pitched  his  tent  and  determined  that  the  land 
about  the  junction  of  the  creeks  should  be  the  site  of  a 
future  village.  Boone  named  the  village  site  "Olden  Barne- 
veld,"  after  John  of  Barneveld,  a  famous  Netherlands  states- 
man. It  is  a  pity  that  the  name  was  changed  in  1833  to  its 
present  name,  Trenton.  Olden  Barneveld  was  incorporated 
April  19,  1819,  reincorporated  as  Trenton,  April  26,  1833. 
(See  Neiu  York  Civil  List,  1868,  page  571.) 

Col.  Adam  G.  Mappa  soon  followed  ]5oone  to  Olden 
Barneveld  as  second  agent  for  the  Holland  Land  Company. 
With  him  came  Judge  Adrian  Van  der  Kemp,  a  man  of 
brilliant  education.  He  translated  for  Governor  De  Witt 
Clinton  the  old  Dutch  Records  belonging  to  the  New 
Amsterdam  Government  prior  to  English  possession  and 
government.  Colonel  Mappa  and  Judge  Van  der  Kemp 
were  close  friends.  They  both  built  houses  in  the  village, 
each  now  standing  on  opposite  sides  of  the  same  street.  In 
these  houses  were  entertained  Van  Buren,  De  Witt  Clinton, 
Horatio  Seymour  and  many  other  notables. 

The  Mappa  House  (now  owned  by  Mr.  William  S.  Wicks), 
the  subject  of  these  illustrations,  was  begun  in  1809,  and 
finished  at  the  close  of  the  War  of  1812.  It  was  intended 
to  be  much  more  sumptuous,  but  the  rise  in  the  cost  of 
material  and  labor  in  consequence  of  the  war  made  it  neces- 
sary to  curtail  in  many  ways.  Tiie  Holland  Land  Com- 
pany had  allowed  Colonel  Mappa  $15,000  for  the  work,  but 
before  the  house  was  completed,  he  had  used  up  this  sum 
and  much  more  with  it. 

The  house  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  village  square,  for- 
merly in  the  centre  of  a  much  larger  property,  early  reduced 
in  size  by  the  sale  of  building  lots,  the  Madam  Decastro 


house-lot  and  the  Unitarian  Church  lot  being  taken  from  the 
soutli  side,  the  village  stores  and  blacksmith-shop  lots  from 
the  northwest.  The  property  on  the  northeast,  on  which  the 
John  Billings  house  stood,  is  now  used  as  a  village-park. 
The  deeds  of  conveyance  of  these  old  properties  are  in 
many  ways  curious;  the  deed  of  one  property  reads,  "begin- 
ning at  the  corner  of  an  asparagus  bed."  We  presume  that 
the  fondness  of  the  Dutch  for  asparagus  made  them  feel 
that  such  a  bed  should  last  forever. 

The  Mappa  House  is  52  feet  wide  and  66  feet  deep.  The 
rooms  in  the  first  as  well  as  the  second  story  are  12  feet  in 
height.  Tlie  exterior  and  basement  walls  are  of  Trenton 
limestone,  the  foundations  from  grade  to  water-table  being 
laid  of  five  equal  courses.  These  courses,  as  well  as  the 
square-faced  water-table,  stone  steps  and  platforms  to  en- 
trances, are  cut  with  eight  bats  to  the  inch.  It  is  probable 
that  the  stone  for  cut-work  was  taken  from  quarries  a  mile 
south  of  the  village.  Originally,  the  walls  of  the  house  above 
the  water-table  were  covered  with  stucco  ;  this  was  removed 
in  1894.  The  house  at  the  present  time  represents  a  fine 
old  appearance,  covered  in  part  with  ampelopsis  vines. 

The  farmers  of  the  surrounding  county  gathered  limestone 
from  their  fields  for  the  walls  of  the  house.  Mappa  and 
Remsen  (John  Mappa,  son  of  Colonel  Mappa)  had  opened 
a  general  trading-store,  and  for  several  years  previous  to 
the  work  of  construction,  the  stone-gathering  went  on.  The 
stone-pile  grew  as  formidable  as  a  -'meeting-house,"  so,  it  is 
stated,  the  farmers  said,  but  as  long  as  Mappa  was  willing  to 


Roof  Framing. 

trade  store-goods  for  stone,  which  they  needed  to  get  rid  of 
to  clear  their  lands,  it  was  not  good  business  to  inquire  into 
his  mental  capacity. 

The  bricks  forming  the  interior  walls,  first-story  and  chim- 
neys were  probably  made  four  miles  south  of  the  village  at 
what  is  now  known  as  South  Trenton,  where,  ever  since,  the 


THE  MAP  PA    HOUSE,   TRENTON,  N.    Y. 


II 


brick-making  industry  has  been  carried   on   in   a   moderate 
way. 

Tiie  timber,  of  red  beech,  was  cut  from  the  nearby  forests, 
some  possibly  from  the  very  site.  The  marks  of  the  broad- 
axe  show  skilful  handling  of  that  ill-looking  tool.  The  spans 
for  the  joists  are  about  eighteen  feet,  the  joists,  4"xit" 
in  size,  are  placed  14  inches  on  centres.  The  headers  and 
trimmers  are  framed  of  8"xii"  timbers.  The  roof  is 
supported  on  heavy  trusses  resting  on  the  outside  walls. 
The  strong  rafters,  as  well  as  the  truss-timbers,  are  framed 
and  pinned  into  the  heavy  plates  and  ridge-tree.  The  ridge- 
tree  is,  indeed,  a  veritable  tree,  pentagonal  in  form,  showing 
7  inches  wide  on  each  face. 

In  the  interior,  the  minor  partitions  in  the  first-story  and 
the  dividing  partitions  in  the  second-story  are  made  of  3-inch 
plank,  placed  vertically,  laid  close  together,  stripped,  lathed 
and  plastered,  making  practically  sound-proof  partitions. 
The  laths,  made  of  straight-grained  hemlock,  were  probably 
from  trees  cut  in  the  early  spring  just  before  the  sap  rises, 
and  rived  into  laths ;  such  at  least  was  the  old  method  of 
making  hemlock  laths. 

The  roof-gutters  were  made  of  pine  timber  hollowed  out, 
and  hung  or  strapped  to  the  heavy  plates  with  strong  irons. 
The  ornamental  gutter-heads  were  long  ago  taken  down, 
some  one  or  two  still  being  stored  in  the  attic  of  the  house. 

The  flooring,  of  spruce,  is  2  inche§  in  thickness,  hewed 
from  timber,  matched  and  fitted  to  the  joist  at  each  bearing, 
jack-planed  and  carefully  smoothed  on  top. 

The  hall  extends  through  the  centre  from  the  west  to  the 
east  front  of  the  house,  ter- 
minating in  porches.  From 
the  east  one  you  look  down 
on  the  village  streams  ;  from 
the  west  one  to  the  rising  land 
and  hills  above. 

The  staircase,  winding  in  a 
delightful  curve  from 
the  main  to  the  sec- 


First  •  Moor    Plan 

ond  floor,  is  substantial  in  construction  and  light  in  appear- 
ance. The  hand-rail  is  of  mahogany,  a  perfect  cylinder  in 
section,  polished  and  worn  to  such  a  finish  and  color  as 
only  age  can  give.  The  ramp  at  the  bottom  of  the  stairs 
centres  in  an  ebony  eye. 


The  delicate  members  of  the  interior  woodwork  indicate 
Italian  as  well  as  the  Adam  Brothers'  influence,  the  former 
shown  in  the  general  fineness  of  details  and  the  latter  in  the 
reed-like  flutings  and  panel-scrolls.  There  is  also  a  touch 
of  English  Gothic  shown  in  the  grouping  of  columns  in  the 
front  porch  and  in  other  places,  and  in  undercut  bed-moulds. 
One  thing  is  noticeable,  the  absence  of  any  form  of  dentil. 


J 

__  ;^ 

rj 

-t 

mm 

Meiv-suitd    and  di':iuin  b^    I'Jlvjilil 
Plaster  Cornices. 

Egg-and-dart  mouldings  appear  only  in  the  cap  of  the  column 
forming  the  door-trim  to  the  drawing-room,  and  the  caps  of 
the  columns  in  the  mantel  of  the  northwest  chamber.  Beads 
occur  frequently  in  the  small  mouldings,  but  pearl-and-bead 
mouldings  only  once.  The  work  is  profuse  in  scalloped 
rosettes,  flutings  and  similar  ornamental  cuttings.  The  wood 
is  of  pine,  finished  white  in  a  semi-enamel  surface. 

The  Georgian  period  of  Colonial  architecture  resulting 
from  the  influences  mentioned  above  is  in  this  house 
exemplified  in  its  highest  type. 

There  was  formerly  a  very  picturesque  lodge  on  the 
northeast  corner  of  the  property,  but  this  fell  into  decay,  and 
was  taken  down  about  the  year  i860. 

The  Unitarian  Church,  of  the  same  style  of  architecture, 
was  built  in  Olden  Barneveld  in  1814.  John  Sherman,  the 
grandson  of  Roger  Sherman,  the  signer  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence,  became  pastor  in  1806. 

The  Guiteau  House,  the  Van  der  Kemp  House,  the 
Griffith  Inn,  the  Billings  House,  the  Decastro  House, 
the  Douglas  House,  and  a  number  of  structures  of  less 
importance,  were  built  about  the  same,  or  a  little  later,  period. 

The  Mappa  property  came  into  possession  of  the  Wicks 
family  in  1863,  and  is  now  used  as  a  summer  house. 

\V.  S.  Wicks. 


Two  Old  Philadelphia  Churches. 


ST.    PETER'S   P.   E.    CHURCH. 

[Date,   1758-61.] 

IT  is  a  real  disappointment  to  find  that  the  feature  which 
makes  St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church,'  on  the  corner  of  T.  ird 
and  Pine  Streets,  Philadelphia,  so  unusually  picturesque 
is  not  coeval  with  the  original  church,  or  chapel,  structure. 
The  upper  part  of  the  square  tower,  with  its  slender  octagonal 
spire  telescoping  behind  the  batllemented  roof,  was  added  to 
the  original  chapel,  in  1842,  by  the  well-known  architect 
William  Strickland, 
in  order  to  receive  a 
chime  of  bells  pre- 
sented about  that 
time  by  some  friend 
of  the  parish. 

In  1758,  the  Vestry 
of  Christ  Church, 
finding  the  structure 
that  had  been  be- 
gun only  thirty  years 
before  was  already 
too  small  to  accom- 
modate the  increas- 
ing number  of  those 
who  would  worship 
there,  record  that  ''it 
is  unanimously 
agreed  that  another 
church  is  much 
wanted ;  and  it  is 
proposed  thai  the 
taking  and  collecting 
the  subscriptions  and 
conducting  the  af- 
fairs relating  to  the 
building,  and  fur- 
nishing the  said  in- 
tended church,  shall 
be  under  the  man- 
agement of  the  min- 
ister, churcli  wardens 
and  vestry  of  Christ 
Church." 

As  a  chapel,  then, 
of  Christ  Church,  St. 
Peter's  was  built,  be- 
tween 1758-61,  and 
maintained  until 
1832,  when  a  separation  from  the  parent  body  was  effected. 

The  site  was  granted  by  the  "honorable  proprietaries," 
and  on  it  was  built  of  brick  a  structure  6o'x9o'  and  crowned 
at  one  end  by  a  small  cupola  in  which  hung  two  small  bells. 
From  the  differences  between  the  color  and  character  of  the 
brickwork  of  the  upper  and  lower  portions  of  the  tower,  it 
appears  likely  that  the  lower  part  of  the  tower  is  part  of  the 
original  structure  and  that  Strickland  added  to  it  the  upper 
part  and  the  spire, 

1  Plate  8,  Part  V. 


"GLORIA    DEI,"   OR   OLD    SWEDES    CHURCH. 


44 


T 


Chancel  of  the  Old  Swedes  Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


[Date,  1700.] 
iHUS,  through  God's  blessing,  we  have  com- 
pleted the  great  work  and  have  built  a  church^ 
superior  to  any  in  this  country,  so  that  the 
English  themselves,  who  now  govern  this  Prov- 
ince, and  are  beyond  measure  richer  than  we  are,  wonder  at 
what  we  have  done." 

In  the  above  words  Pastor  Bjork  wrote  home  to  Sweden 

in  1700,  so  that  his 
superiors  in  the 
Swedish  National 
Church  might  know 
what  had  been  ac- 
complished and  the 
successors  of  G  u  s- 
tave  Adolphus  might 
know  how  the  Swed- 
ish Colonists,  who 
emigrated  to  the 
country  in  conform- 
ity with  a  plan  con- 
ceived by  that  king, 
were  prospering. 
Probably  many  who 
regard  with  amiable 
approbation  the 
important  place  held 
by  Scandinavians  in 
the  tabulations  of  the 
annual  influx  of  im- 
migrants of  late  years 
do  not  know  that  the 
Swedes  are  really 
amongst  our  oldest 
settlers.  Their  set- 
tlement  at  Wecacoe 

—  now    Philadelphia 

—  antedates  the 
arrival  o  f  William 
Penn  (the  Tinicum 
Church,  the  prede- 
cessor of  the  present 
structure,  being  built 
in  1642),  and  Penn 
is  said  to  have 
merely  adopted  in 
his  dealings  with  the 

Indians  the  methods  already  practised  by  the  Swedes. 

Although  there  are  older  church  societies  in  the  country 
and  some  of  these  have  been  able  to  celebrate  their  two 
hundred-and-fiftieth  anniversary,  the  original  structures  in 
which  their  worship  began  have  long  since  vanished  and 
there  are  not  many  church  fabrics  in  the  country,  not  even 
the  Spanish  Mission  Chapels  in  Texas,  that  can  boast  longer 
life  than  Gloria  Dei,  more  familiarly  known  as  the  "Old 
Swedes  Church  "on  Swanson  Street,  Philadelphia.     Further 

-  Plates  1 1  and  1 2,  Part  V. 


"  GLORIA    DEL" 


13 


than  this,  there  is  probably  no  parisli  that  has  worshipped 
uninlerruptedly  in  the  same  building  for  so  many  years. 
Gloria  Dei  has  never  closed  its  doors,  and  in  this  it  out- 
ranks the  slightly  older  Swedish  church  that  was  built  at 
Christina  —  now  Wilmington,  Del. 

In  1900  Gloria  Dei  will  celebrate  the  two  hundredth  anni- 
versary of  the  completion  of  the  church  building  and  the  two 
hundred  and  twenty-third  anniversary  of  the  formation  of 
the  Society.  During  the  first  hundred  years  of  its  existence 
the  rites  of  the  Swedish  National  Church  were  practised,  but 
by  the  end  of  that  time  the  Swedes  had  become  thorough 
Americans,  spoke  English  and  no  longer  felt  the  closeness 


of  tlie  tie  that  connected  them  with  their  Mother  Country, 
and  so  declined  longer  to  receive  the  native  Swedish  pastors 
sent  over  from  time  to  time.  During  the  last  hundred  years 
the  parish  has  been  affiliated  with  the  Protestant  Episcopal 
Church. 

'I'he  baptismal  font  is  said  to  have  been  brought  from 
Sweden  by  the  early  colonists,  who  used  it  in  their  service  in 
the  original  church  structure  —  the  converted  block-house  that 
then  stood  where  the  church  now  stands.  The  bell,  too,  is 
recast  from  the  old  bell  used  in  1643,  and  bears  the  couplet :  — 

"  I  to  the  church  the  living  call, 
And  to  the  grave  do  summon  all." 


^^'r^? 


'\  ^'^^'-^^.t^^  1^ 


Old  Colonial  Work  in  Virginia  and  Maryland. 


WILLIAMSBURG. 

THE  ancient  quiet  of  this  old  place,  the  residence- 
town  of   the  royal   governors    and    officers  of   the 
crown  in  His  British  Majesty's  colony  of  Virginia, 
has   been    little    disturbed    by    the    irreverent    on- 
slaught of  nineteenth-century  progress,  and   as  the  English 


Bacon  had  dri\en  Governor  lierkeley  to  refuge  in  Acco- 
mack, defeated  the  Indians,  and  made  himself  master  of 
Virginia.  He  now  called  a  great  convention  together  at 
Middle  Plantation,  and,  after  a  powerful  harangue  and  a 
stormy  debate,  which  lasted  from  noon  to  midnight  of  Au- 
gust 3,  persuaded  those  present,  among  whom  were  several 


traveller,  Burnaby,  wrote  of   it   in    1759, ''a  pleasant    little  members  of  the  royal  council  and  many '' prime  gentlemen  " 

town  with  wooden  houses  and  unpaved  streets,"  so  will  the  of  the  colony,  to  sign  a  declaration  of  their  determination  to 

modern    wayfarer   find   it  —  an    eminently    respectable    and  stand  by  General  Bacon,  to  "  rise  in  arms  against  "  Berkeley, 

highly  conservative  old  burgh,  proud  of  its  vanished  great-  who  was  denounced  a  traitor  and  a  rebel,  "if  he  with  armed 

ness  and  of  its  years.     The  railroad  which  sets  one  down  forces  should  ofTer  to  resist  the  General;  "to  oppose  "  any 

from  Richmond  or  Hampton,  merely  skirts  the  outer  edge  forces  sent  out  of  England  at  the  request  of  Sir  William  or 

of  the  town,  and,  being  out  of  sight,  obtrudes  itself  upon  otherways,  to  his  aid;" — and  much  more  of  a  like  revolu- 


the  general  quaint- 
ness  and  age  of  the 
place  only  by  the  in- 
frequent rush  and 
clatter  of  a  passing 
train. 

From  the  veranda 
of  the  inn  one  has  a 
very  agreeable  first 
impression  of  a  long 
stretch  of  wide  "dirt- 
road,"  bordered  by 
two  rows  of  trees,  and 
having   a   straggling, 


A\ap  of... 

"We.  James  RivLR... 


tionary  tenor.  The 
scene  was  one  of  the 
most  striking  and  sig- 
nificant in  the  early 
history  of  the  colony. 
In  1698  Governor 
Nicholson  removed 
the  seat  of  govern- 
ment  from  James- 
town, then  "contain- 
ing only  three  or 
four  good  inhabited 
houses,"    to    Middle 


1     Plantation,  where  he 

broken  line  of  rather  low  and  small  old  brick  or  wooden  planned  a  large  town,  whose  streets  were  designed  to  form 
houses  on  either  hand.  This  is  Duke  of  Gloucester  Street,  the  letters  VV  and  M,  in  honor  of  their  Majesties,  William 
a  pleasant,  high-sounding  old   name,  which    invokes  in  the      and  Mary  of  England  —  a  conceit  never  carried  out. 


mind  of  the  tourist  in  search  of  the  picturesque  a  sense  of 
lively  gratitude  toward  the  old  burghers  for  not  having 
christened  their  single  anportant  thoroughfare  in  the  more 
usual  commonplace  way. 

Williamsburg  was  founded,  under  its  original  name  of 
Middle  Plantation,  in  1632,  through  an  order  granting  fifty 
acres  of  land  and  e.xemption  from  general  taxation  to  any 
one  settling  there. 

In  August,  1676,  when  General  Bacon  and  his  victorious 


Williamsburg  was  thenceforward  the  centre  of  colonial 
growth,  and,  though  never  attaining  any  great  importance 
as  a  town,  it  was  ever  thought  a  pleasant  place  to  live  in, 
numbering  among  its  residents  and  visitors  many  great  and 
famous  men. 

In  the  immediate  foreground,  as  one  looks  westward  up 
the  long,  wide  street,  lies  the  old  "bowling-green,"  a  gener- 
ous, unenclosed  square  of  close-cropped  turf,  on  one  side  of 
which,  and  fronting  upon  the  street,  stands  the  court-house, 


army  of  rebels  encamped  there,  it  was  only  a  small  village      a  quaint  little  bit  of  architecture  commonly  accredited  to  Sir 
of  straggling  little  houses.  Christopher  Wren. 


14 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


The  building  is  oblong,  and  one  story  high.  'J'he  walls 
are  substantially  built  of  small  English  brick,  of  a  very  pleas- 
ing dull-red  color.  The  windows,  high  above  the  ground, 
are  tall  and  narrow,  and  all  the  openings  are  crowned  by 
semicircular  arches,  in  which  the  dark,  glazed  brick  used 
for  headers  is  simply  effective.  Painted  boards  have  re- 
placed the  original  round  head  sash  and  fan-lights.  Where 
the  thickness  of  the  wall  is  reduced,  at  the  floor-level,  the 
offset  is  covered  with  a  rounding  moulded  brick.  There  is 
a  wide  stone  platform,  with  three  steps  to  the  ground,  before 


f 


.    Mffer 


-*-  S**: 


Christopher  Wren's  Court-house,  Williamsburg. 


growers.  In  1668  we  hear  of  three  hundred  pounds  sent 
over  as  a  present  to  Charles  the  Second. 

Then  there  came  a  period  when  the  caterpillars  languished 
and  died,  and  the  JJurgesses  undid  the  law  as  to  the  com- 
pulsory planting  of  mulberry-trees.  There  was  another 
mulberry  revival  when  the  Huguenot  refugees  came  over, 
and  in  1730  more  silk  was  sent  home  to  England;  but  noth- 
ing came  of  it  all  at  last,  except  the  grand  old  gnarled  and 
knotted  bolls  and  spreading  branches  of  the  trees,  which  we 
find  composing  effectively  into  foregrounds  in  these  ancient 
places. 

Not  far  beyond  the  court-house  is  old  Bruton  Parish 
Church,  standing  within  the  walled  enclosure  of  its  "God's 
acre,"  and  rearing  its  graceful,  Wren-like  tower  amid  the 
spreading  branches  of  the  ancient  trees.  Our  eighteenth- 
century  Englishman,  Mr.  Burnaby  has  set  down  old  Bruton 
as  "  an  indifferent  church,"  but  it  was  comparatively  new  in 
his  day,  and  had  scarce  yet  felt  the  beautifying  touch  of 
time. 

The  vestry-book  of  the  parish  of  Middlesex  in  the  year 
1665  contains  an  entry  directing  the  building  in  Middlesex 
of  a  church  similar  to  the  church  of  Bruton  Parish.  That  this 
was  a  wooden  building  seems  likely  from  an  entry  in  the  Bru. 
ton  records  of  1678  giving  the  list  of  donors  to  a  new  brick 
church,^  headed  by  John  Page,  who  gives  twenty  pounds  in 
money  and  the  land  for  church  and  churchyard.  The  name 
of  Bruton  seems  to  have  been  originated  by  Mr.  Sudwell,  who 


the  doorway,  over  which  projects  the  roofed  pediment  of  a 
portico,  to  which  the  columns  are  wanting.  'I'here  is  no  evi 
dence  that  they  were  ever  in  place,  nor  does  the  eye  miss 
them  greatly  after  it  has  become  a  little  accustomed  to  their 
absence.  A  wooden  cornice,  of  simple  membering,  is  car- 
ried round  the  building.  The  eaves  have  a  moderate  projec- 
tion. The  hipped  roof  is  crowned  with  a  tall  octagonal  lan- 
tern of  graceful  form,  with  wooden  finial  surmounted  by  a 
good  wrought-iron  vane. 

The  old  mulberry  trees  along  the  street  are  very  beautiful 
and  effective  in  shape,  and  interesting  as  the  relics  of  a  craze 
which  from  time  to  time  played  a  not  insignificant  part  in 
Colonial  Virginia,  and,  in  fact,  throughout  all  the  thirteen 
colonies.  Attempts  to  grow  the  silk-worm  were  renewed 
again  and  again  in  spite  of  failures,  and  the  successive  trials 
were  continued  over  a  period  of  about  one  hundred  and 
sixty  years,  reaching  down  to  the  beginning  of  the  Revolu- 
tion. Mulberry  trees  were  planted  everywhere.  One  finds 
them  in  numbers  about  the  great  old  manor-houses  on  the 
river.  The  craze  came  over  from  England,  as  did  every- 
thing else  in  those  days,  where  it  originated  in  an  effort  of 
the  merchants  to  escape  the  paying  of  good  English  gold  for 
French  silk.  The  Jamestown  people  had  a  try  at  the  mul- 
berries, and  sent  some  silk  to  England,  creating  a  tremen- 
dous excitement  among  tlie  enthusiasts  "  at  home,"  and  so 
encouraging  the  hopeful  that,  in  1620,  a  lot  of  French  silk- 
growers  were  sent  out  to  give  the  experiment  a  fair  trial  in 
Virginia.  Nothing  seems  to  have  come  of  this  enterprise, 
and  the  stirring  times  of  the  Indian  massacre  of  1622  doubt, 
less  drove  the  skilled  "mounseers"  away  to  sunny  France 
again. 

Charles  the  First  was  always  interested  in  the  silk-growing, 
which  he  encouraged  in  his  own  ineffectual  way.  It  went 
on  under  the  Commonwealth,  and  we  find  good  Edward 
Digges,  in  1655,  turning  out  as  much  as  four  hundred  pounds 
of  fine  silk.  Later,  the  House  of  Burgesses  passed  a  law 
requiring  the  planting  of  one  mulberry-tree  to  every  ten 
acres    of    land.     Great     rewards    were   promised    successful 


The  Churchyard  Cate. 

SO  called  the  parish  in  memory  of  his  birthplace  at  Bruton, 
in  Somerset,  England.  He  also  gave  twenty  pounds  toward 
the  new  building,  and  Philip  Sudwell  twenty  pounds,  and 
many  others  gave  five  pounds.     And  John  Page  was  allowed 

iThis  church,  too,  gave  place  in  1715  to  a  larger  one.  28' x  75',  with 
wings  or  transepts,  the  tower  and  steeple  being  added  in  1769,  in  which 
still  swings  the  bell,  cast  in  1761,  presented  by  the  queen  herself.  In 
1S3S  the  interior  was  iriaterially  changed  and  at  the  same  time  the  old 
pews  and  pulpit  were  removed.  —  Ed. 


CHRIST  CHURCH,   BRUTON  PARISH. 


15 


to  put  up  a  pew  in  the  chancel,  where  there  was  also  one  for 
the  rector. 

As  soon  as  the  church  was  dedicated,  the  vestry  made  it 
known  in  the  community  that  it  was  intended  to  enforce  the 
penalty  of  so  many  pounds  of  tobacco  against  those  who 
failed  in  their  attendance. 

There  seems  to  have  been  from  the  first  a  great  struggle 
between  the  royal  govern- 
ors and  the  church  people 
as  to  the  induction  of  the 
pastors.  The  Governor, 
as  representative  of  the 
King,  was  the  nominal 
head  of  the  church,  and, 
as  such  claimed  the  right 
of  appointment,  and  was 
otherwise  inclined  to  in- 
terfere with  the  functions 
of  another  great  person- 
age, the  Commissary  to 
the  Bishop  of  London. 
There  was  much  unseemly 
squabbling  over  this  mat- 
ter between  these  rival 
powers.  In  1696  the 
salary  of  the  rector  was 


The  Tomb  of  the  Bravs  in  Bruton  Parish  Churchvard. 


By  all  odds  the  most  distinguished  churchman  of  colonial 
times,  in  Virginia,  was  James  Blair,  Rector  of  Bruton  Parish, 
from  17 10  to  1743.  He  was  the  founder  and  first  president 
of  William  and  Mary  College,  and  Commissary  to  the 
Bishop  of  London.  His  parish  of  Williamsburg,  or  Middle 
Plantation,  was  reported  to  the  Bishop  of  London,  in  1723, 
as    ten    miles  square.     His     ministry    "commenced,"    says 

Meade,  "under  the  ad- 
ministration of  Governor 
Spotswood,  and  with  a 
tender  from  the  Governor 
to  the  vestry  of  aid  in 
building  a  new  church, 
the  plan  of  which  was  sent 
by  him,  and  is,  I  presume, 
the  same  with  that  now 
standing.  Itsdimensions 
were  to  be  t  w  e  n  t  y  - 1  w  o 
feet,  with  two  wings,  mak- 
ing it  a  cross  as  to  form. 
The  Governor  offered  to 
build  twenty-two  feet  of 
the  length  himself." 

Blair  was  the  most  en- 
ergetic of  men,  and  always 
foremost  in  the  affairs  of 


*H,---  '^" 


£]oTnti  oi  ^c  \)s^\i>  - 


%- 


fixed  at  sixteen  thousand  pounds  of  tobacco,  in  lieu  of  ;£"ioo  Church  and  State.  He  kept  up  an  endless  warfare  against 
per  annum,  which,  the  parishioners  had  complained,  they  the  royal  governors  in  matters  relating  mainly  to  the 
were  unable  to  pay.  The  incumbents  of  Virginia  livings  Church,  and  he  defeated  them  in  succession  and  single- 
were  not,  as  a  rule,  men  of  a  high  order,  if  we  may  believe  handed.  Even  the  genial  and  cultivated  Alexander  Spots- 
the  traditions  of  their  profligacy.  One  is  said  to  have  fought  wood,  that  distinguished  soldier  and  most  accomplished 
a  duel  in  his  churchyard  to  settle  a  quarrel  at  cards,  another  gentleman,  did  not  long  live  in  amity  with  the  staunch 
thrashed  his  contumacious  vestry,  and  then  preached  them  and   invincible    old   cleric,    and,  as   the    Governor    himself 


a  sermon  celebrat- 
ing his  victory: 
swindling  of  trades- 
men, gambling,  and 
attendance  at  horse- 
races and  c  o  c  k  - 
fights  seem  to  have 
been  quite  common 
among  them  and, 
finally,  the  evidence 
is  unmistakable  that 
they  all,  to  a  man, 
got  gloriously  drunk 
at  dinner  whenever 
they  could.  These, 
indeed,  were  the 
manners  of  the 
times,  and  perhaps 
the  worthy  parish- 
ioners were  not  so 
shocked  as  one 
might  suppose  by 
this  behavior  of 
their  clergy.  How- 
ever, the  faithful 
continued  the  strug 
gle  with  the  govern 
ors  until  they  finally 


Christ  Chiircii.  liriiton  I'nrish.  Wiilianishiirc:,  Va. 


admits,  it  was  not 
the  parson  who  was 
worsted. 

Blair's  quarrel 
with  Sir  Edmund 
Andros  was  a  fa- 
mous one,  and  he 
fairly  drove  the  suc- 
cessor of  Andros, 
Sir  Francis  Nichol- 
son, from  the  colony. 

Jiruton  Church  is 
really  very  beauti- 
ful. The  gable  on 
the  east  end  is 
densely  covered  in 
ivy,  and  the  suns 
and  storms  of  many 
years  have  so  mel- 
lowed and  harmon 
ized  the  whole  that 
one  is  loth  to  criti- 
cise in  detail.  No 
doubt  it  is,  after  all, 
but  an  indifferent 
affair,  as  our  friend, 
the  Archdeacon 
Burnaby,     insists, 


won  the  rif^ht  of  hiring  their  parsons  from  year  to  year,  a  but  the  warm,  yellowish-red  tone  of  the  old  bricks,  the  simple 
system  which,  no  doubt,  largely  increased  the  godliness  of  dignity  in  the  lines  of  the  building  and  the  fair  propor- 
deportment  and  improved  the  odor  of  sanctity  in  these  tions  of  the  old  bell-tower,  the  clinging  ivy,  the  back- 
reverend  "entlemen.  ground   of   fine  old  trees,  of  grassy  yard    and    mouldering 


i6 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


mossy  tombs,  all    so   eloquent   in    the    tender  loveliness  of  been  cleaned  so  as  to  reveal  the  beauty  of  the  work,  with- 

age,  unite  in  a   picture  which    has  in  it  a  good  bit  of  old  out,  however,  losing  the  inimitable  mellow  tones  with  which 

England,  and  is  fidl  of  quiet  charm.      The  tin  roof  which  old  time  has  glorified  them. 

replaced  tiie  ancient  shingles  was  an  unhappy  mistake,  and  In  another  part  of  the  yard,  lying  half-hid  among  the  long 

we  may  hope  that  the  better  taste  which  now  controls   the  grass,  is  a  plain  gray  slab  of  stone  setting  fortii  in  eloquent 

parish  will,  some  dav,  restore  the  nobler  covering.     Going  simplicity  that  "  Here  lyes  the  corps  of  Hugh  Orr,  hammer- 


in  through  one  of  the  wrought-iron  gates  set  in  the  low  wall 
of  brick  which  surrounds  the  churchyard,  one  wanders 
among  the  tombs  in  that  subdued  enjoyment  of  the  solemn 
beauty  of  the  place  found  only  in  an  ancient  garden  of  the 
dead.  Here  are  some  quaint  old  stones,  rich  in  sculptured 
heraldic  device,  and  bearing,  in  graceful,  antique  letter, 
stately  tribute  to  the  deeds  and  virtues  of  the  sleepers 
beneath. 


man  in  Williamsburg — 1764"- — and  many  graves  there  are 
unmarked  by  stone  or  mound,  most  eloquent,  perhaps,  of 
all. 

The  interior  of  Bruton  has  little  to  reward  the  eye  of  the 
curious.  There  is,  to  be  sure,  the  alleged,  and  doubtless 
perfectly  authentic,  Pocahontas  font,  in  which  they  baptized 
the  wild  princess  after  they  had  talked  her  into  becoming  a 
Christian  and  the  wife  of  John  Rolfe.     There  is,  also,  some 


Here,   under  a  twisted  mulberry  in  the  southeast  sunny      interesting   communion-plate  belonging   to    Bruton   parish  : 


angle  of  the  wall, 
lies  "Barradall,  ar- 
miger,"  beneath  a 
tomb  blackened  and 
seamed  with  age, 
but  very  good  in 
design,  and  bearing 
a  splendid  sculpt- 
ured crest  and  a 
Latin  eulogy  of  that 
worthy  jurist  of  the 
colony,  upon  the  flat 
top-stone.  And  not 
far  from  the  tower, 
at  the  western  end 
of  the  church,  among 
a  group  of  the  larger 
tombs,  is  the  hand- 
some monument 
erected  by  a  grate- 
ful colony  to  the 
memory  of  P^dward 
Nott,  late  their 
Governor,  ''  a  lover 
of  mankind  and 
bountiful  to  his 
friends,"  who  died 
August  23,  1706,  at 
the  ageof  forty-nine. 
The  lettering  of  this 
inscription  is  par- 
ticularly good,  and 
the  armorial  bear- 
ings carved  above 
it  are  rich  in  scrolled  foliation.  At  the  head  and  foot  and  on 
the  sides  of  (he  tomb  are  relievos  in  white  marble  carved  by  a 
skilled  hand.  These  marbles  were,  of  course,  brought  over 
from  the  mother  country,  the  work  being  of  much  too  fine  a 
quality  to  have  been  executed  in  the  colony.  Kdward  Nott 
was  the  first  deputy  of  the  Earl  of  Orkney,  who  was  made 
Titular-Governor  of  Virginia  in  1704,  but  never  caine  out  to 
his  province.     Nott's  administration  lasted  only  two  years. 


lamb  of  E^dward  7\lor!^ 
Rpyq]  (governor  of  V/i'c^inia.-  Obit'  l']o6  — 


the  Jamestown  ser- 
vice, presented  by 
one  Morrison  to 
the  old  Jamestown 
Church,  is  of  heavy 
silver,  rather 
crudely  fashioned, 
and  probaby  made 
in  Jamestown, 
where  there  were 
capable  artificers, 
sent  out  among  the 
original  companies. 
The  ''Queen  Anne" 
service  is  of  gold, 
and  richly  chased 
with  the  arms  of 
Beauchamp,  and  of 
another  family. 
The  work  is  said  to 
have  been  done  by 
Harache,  a  French 
emigre,  who  had 
been  in  the  employ 
of  the  great  Marl- 
borough. The  third, 
a  heavy  silver-ser- 
vice, was  presented 
to  Christ  Church, 
Bruton  Parish,  by 
George  III:  it  bears 
the  royal  arms 
handsomely  chased 
on  flagon,  chalice 
and  paten,  and  is  delicate'y  wrought  upon  the  edges  with  a 
shell  design.  Drawings  of  these  sacred  vessels  may  be  seen 
in  Ruck's  "■  Old  Flater 

Architecturally,  the  interior  of  the  church  cor.tains  very 
little  of  interest.  It  is,  however,  rich  in  historical  associa- 
tions, and  the  imagination  easily  peoples  the  old  place  wiJi 
the  phantoms  of  departed  greatness. 

Up  there,  ill  the  gallery,  sat  the  "  quality,"  in   the  older 


and  he  died  in  office,  having  won  the  affection  of  the  colony  time,  when  they  came  in  their  great  state-coaches  to  church 

by  his  wise  and  beneficent  government.  from  their  plantations   on   the  York  or   the  James.     From 

The  large   white   marble  monument  of  the  Bray  family,  "  Rosewell,"  over  on  the  York,  came  the  great  Page  family, 

close   by,  is   also   imposing.      The  larger  tombs  are  being  the  descendants  of  Colonel  John  Page,  who,  as  we  have  seen, 

cleaned  and  restored  in   a  very  satisfactory  and  intelligent  was  one  of  the  original  patrons  of  Bruton.    At  their  splendid 

way  under  the  auspices  of  the  lady  parishioners  of  ]5ruton.  house  of  Rosewell,  and  on  their  neighboring  estate  of  Shelly 

Those  of  Xott  and  Bray  have  been   lifted  out  of  the  ground  the  Pages  lived  like  the  grand  seigneurs  they  were.     The  old 

into  which  ihey  had  partially  sunk,  and  their  carvings  have  Indian  name  of  Shelly  was  "  U'eromocomoco,"  and  it  was 


CHRIST   CHURCH,    BRUTOX  PARISH 


17 


here  that  grim  old  Powhatan  set  up  his  courl,  and  feasted 
in  royal  state  upon  the  luscious  oysters  of  the  York.  The 
Pages  were  great  churchmen,  and  staunch  upholders  of  the 
Establishment.  Their  estates  were  of  vast  extent,  and 
Matthew  Page,  adding  to  them  the  great  adjoining  tract  of 
Timber  Neck,  in  1690,  by  his  marriage  with  Mary  Mann, 
broadened  the  family  acres  into  a  princely  domain.  Mann 
Page,  his  son,  built  Rosewell  House,  in  1725,  having  brought 
the  bulk  of  the  material  from  England,  as  was  usual  in  that 
time.  Rosewell  is  ninety  feet  square,  an  imposing  pile,  and 
the  interior  was  finished  in  all  the  elegance  of  wainscoted 
walls,  mahogany  stairs  and  carved  mantels. 

The  building  of  these  splendid  and  costly  manor-houses 
in  the  infant  colony,  as  yet  hardly  more  than  the  unreclaimed 
wilderness,  was  a  curious  instance  of  the  ostentatious  gran- 
deur of  the  period,  exaggerated  as  it  was  among  these  lordly 
planters  of  Virginia,  who  emulated  the  pride  and  lu.xury  of 
their  English  prototypes. 

Despite  the  wildness  of  the  life  they  led,  their  society  was 
distinguished  for  courtliness  of  manners  and  for  a  boundless 
hospitality,  still  an  active  principle  in  the  households  of  their 
descendants. 

Educational  facilities  were  very  limited  in  the  colony. 
The  sons  of  the  richer  families  were  sent  to  William  and 
Mary,  or  to  England.  Outside  of  these  two  resources  there 
was  nothing.  But,  after  all,  they  picked  up,  somehow,  enough 
learning  to  fit  them  to  manage  their  plantations  successfully, 
to  look  after  the  growth  and  final  sale  of  the  great  staple, 
tobacco,  to  direct  the  training  of  their  negroes  in  the  trades 
and  avocations  of  varied  kind*  exercised  upon  the  larger 
places,  to  see  to  the  importation  of  the  household  neces- 
sities and  luxuries  from  England  and,  above  all,  to  acquit 
themselves  gallantly  at  race  and  rout,  in  the  parlor  or  the 
woodland  camp.  To  the  personal  beauty  of  the  women 
who  graced  tlieir  homes  canvases  by  many  a  famous  hand 
bear  witness,  and  that  they  practised  all  the  ilomestic  virtues 
in  a  high  degree  in  the  midst  of  the  reckless  living,  the  prodi- 
gal hospitality  and  wild  profusion  of  the  times,  we  have,  also, 
the  amplest  testimony.  Then,  as  now,  the  reputable  way- 
farer in  the  Old  Dominion  found  every  door  open  to  him,  and 
warm-hearted  enteriainers  eager  to  house  and  feed  and  help 
him  on  his  journey.  Tlie  taverns  were  small,  comfortless 
grogshops.  The  plantations  were  isolated,  and,  as  there 
were  few  roads  worthy  the  name,  communication  between 
them  was  mainly  by  the  rivers  upon  which  all  the  great  places 
were  located.  As  the  country  became  more  settled  and 
roads  were  opened,  the  planters  went-in  for  fine  horses,  and 
set  up  their  studs  of  hunters  and  racers,  often  bred  from 
famous  imported  sires  of  value.  Their  equipages  were  of 
great  splendor.  General  Spotswood,  living  in  retirement  at 
Yorktown,  advertises  in  the  Virginia  Gazette,  in  1737.  to  sell 
his  "coach,  chariot,  chaise  and  coach-horses,"  and  "one  of 
the  best-made,  handsomest  and  easiest  chariots  in  London." 
And  so  the  great  people  drove  in  state  to  church,  with  pomp  of 
sleek,  prancing  coach-horses  and  splendor  of  crested  panels. 

.-\nd,  standing  here  in  the  warm  sunshine  in  the  doorway 
of  the  ancient  house  of  God,  we  may  fancy  the  Rosewell 
coach  reined  up  at  the  gates,  and  discharging  its  aristocratic 
burden  of  satin-robed  beauties  and  brave  gentlemen  on  a 
bright  May  morning  in  the  late  colonial  times;  and  we  may 
see  young  Mr.  Jefferson,  at  present  an  undergraduate  of  old 
William  and  Mary,  stejjping  down,  to  hand  out  the  lovely 
mistress  Rebecca  Burwell,  whom  he  adores  just  now,  and 
who  had  the  distinguished  honor  of  refusing  the  embryo 
statesman's  heart  and  hand  somewhat  later.  We  will  picture 
Mr.  Jefferson  to  oui  imagination  as  a  rather  slim  and  callow 


youth,  at  this  time,  with  curling  locks  of  rufous  gold,  debo- 
nair, and  of  courtly  manner.  With  him  is  his  friend,  John 
Page,  of  •'  Rosewell,"  his  chum  at  William  and  Mary,  the  fel- 
low-patriot with  whom  he  listened  to  the  denunciatory  thun- 
derings  of  Henry  in  the  House  of  Burgesses,  and  sweet  Anne 
Randolph,  and  his  friend  Ben  Harrison.  As  they  enter  the 
old  church,  wherein  their  ancestors  have  worshipped  for  gen- 
erations, and,  with  rustling  of  skirts,  preening  of  feathers  and 
smoothing  of  rumpled  laces,  march  to  their  seats  among  the 
aristocrats  in  the  gallery,  the  admiring  commoners  look  on 
from  their  places  on  the  floor  below. 

Williamsburg  was  always  the  great  centre  of  fashion  in 
the  old  colony  times.  The  "  season  "  lasted  during  the 
session  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  and  the  Supreme  Court, 
and  when  the  time  arrived  for  the  meeting  of  those  august 
bodies,  every  considerable  planter  in  the  country  round 
bundled  his  family  into  the  great  state  coach-and-six,  and 
drove  up  to  the  capital  for  a  few  weeks'  of  brilliant  gayety. 

The  Royal  Governors  and  other  officers  of  the  Crown  vied 
with  one  another,  and  with  the  citizens,  in  the  splendor  and 
luxury  of  their  dinners  and  balls.  There  were  horse-races 
and  many  other  sports,  and  gambling  ever  fast  and  furious, 
and  now  and  then,  at  dawn  of  day,  there  was  the  gleam  of 


At  Sunrise. 

crossing  swords  or  the  pop  of  the  duelling-pistol  out  behind 
tlie  town,  on  a  sequestered  bit  of  turf  beneath  the  trees, 
where  hot-blooded  gentlemen  settled  the  undetermined  issues 
of  the  night,  of  love  or  play.  There  were  feasting  and  danc- 
ing at  the  Raleigh  Tavern,  and  the  plays  of  Shakespeare  and 
Congreve  were  given  by  the  "  Virginia  Company,"  from  Eon- 
don  ;  and  thus  pleasantly  did  the  life  of  the  old  capital  roll 
on  up  to  the  sterner  times  of  the  Revolution. 

But,  whatever  wild  gayety  and  dissipation  '  may  have  filled 
the  week,  old  Christ  Church  of  Bruton  received  them  within 
her  venerable  walls  when  the  Sabbath  came  round,  and  with 
becoming  decorum  these  aristocratic  squires  and  dames,  and 
beaux  and  belles,  of  the  younger  England,  listened^  to  the 
word  of  God  in  the  old  fane  of  their  forefathers. 


'  See  note  on  .St.  Peter's  Cliurch.  New  Kent  County,  page   25. 

2 '-Mr.  Camm  was  succeeded  bv  tlie  Rev.  Mr.  Sliiekls,  who  was 
the  minister  to  some  now  [i^>55]  living.  He  was,  it  is  believed, 
an  intellif;ent  and  pious  man.  Some  thoufjht  him  rather  too  much 
of  a  Methodist,  I  have  it  from  relatives  of  one  of  the  jjarty,  tliat 
a  lady  of  the  old  seliool.  at  a  time  when  stiff  brocades  were  the 
churcli  dress  of  those  who  could  afford  it,  would  come  home,  after 
.some  of  Mr.  Shields's  more  animated  discourses,  and  call  upon  her 
maid  to  take  off  her  clothes,  for  she  had  heard  .so  niucli  of  hell, 
damnation  and  death,  that  it  would  take  her  all  the  evening  to  get 
cool."  —  Ilis/iop  Ml-ikIc. 


i8 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


THE  WYTHE  HOi'SE.  Wythe  House  with  a  manifestation,  appearing  in  full  ball- 

JusT  north  of  the  church-yard,  and  fronting  upon  a  grassy  dress,  with  sweeping  train  of  rich  brocade  and  high-heeled 

open  known  as  "Palace  Green,"  on  the  upper  side  of  wliich  scarlet  slippers  with  diamond  buckles, 

stood  Lord   Dunmore's  house,  or  ''the  Governor's  Palace,"  Yet  another  spectral  tenant  was  known  in  the  flesh  as  the 


as  it  was  called  among  the  patriots  of 
'75,  stands  a  line,  old,  square  brick 
house  which,  the  inquiring  stranger 
will  be  informed,  "was  once  General 
Washington's  headquarters."  Histori- 
cal accuracy,  however,  resolves  this 
tradition  into  the  lesser  fact  that  Wash- 
ington spent  the  night  at  this  house,  the 
home  of  his  friend  George  Wythe,  on 
his  way  to  join  Lafayette  at  Yorktown 
in  the  latter  part  of  September,  1781. 

'l"he  old  house  is,  however,  quite  in- 
teresting on  its  own  account,  and  on 
going  up  to  have  a  look  at  it,  I  was 
very  courteously  admitted,  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  walking  about  the  broad 
hall  and  large  square  rooms,  and  the  fur- 
ther good  fortune  of  hearing  a  sketch 
of  the  history  and  a  legend  or  two, 
which,  I  think,  I  cannot  do  better  than 
transcribe  here,  as  literally  as  may  be. 

The  Wythe  House,  as  this  old  home- 
stead is  called,  was  built  by  Colonel 
Louis  Taliaferro  and  given  as  a  mar- 


The  Wythe  House,  Williamsburg. 


consort  of  Governor  John  Page,  who 
purchased  Wythe  House  upon  the  death 
of  Colonel  Skipwith,  and  it  is  whispered 
that  even  the  stately  wraith  of  the 
Father  of  his  Country  himself,  who  was 
always  a  great  friend  of  Wythe's,  has 
been  seen  in  the  halls  and  on  the  broad 
stairway. 

Time  would  fail  me  to  tell  of  the 
weird  sounds  that  are  heard,  the  doors 
that  open  without  the  touch  of  mortal 
hands,  the  phantom  shapes  which  have 
been  seen  gliding  through  the  corri- 
dors. But,  one  and  all,  these  ghosts 
are  ghosts  of  high  degree  and  of  un- 
exceptionable deportment,  and  never 
in  the  least  have  they  encroached  upon 
the  peace  and  comfort  of  the  residents 
of  \\'ythe  House. 

There  is  nothing  especially  note- 
worthy in  the  architecture  of  this  old 
mansion  unless  it  is  the  air  of  solid 
and  substantial  comfort  which  it  wears. 
The  plan  is  a  very  simple  one  —  a  wide 


riage   portion   to  his  daughter,  the  wife  of  George  Wythe,      central  hall  through  the  middle  of  the  house,  and  two  rooms 


who,  to  quote  one  of  his  biographers,  was  "the  pure  and 
virtuous  Chancellor,  a  member  of  the  House  of  Purgesses,  a 
signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  a  Member  of 
Congress,  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Delegates,  Judge  of  the 
Court  of  Appeals,  a  member  of  the  Conventions  on  the  Con- 
stitution of  the  United  States,  and  Professor  of  Law  at 
William  and  Mary  College.  To  him  was  reserved  the  honor 
of  devising  the  emblems  and  motto  of  the  shield  of  Virginia." 
Wythe  enjoyed  the  intimacy  of  Jefferson,  Mason,  Washington, 
and,  in  short,  of  the  brightest  minds  of  his  day  in  Virginia. 
The    Chancellor's 


on  either  side  of  this,  each  having  three  windows  and  a  great 
fireplace.  I  did  not  examine  the  arrangement  of  the  second 
story.     The  kitchens  and  offices  are  in  a  rear  building. 


?^-o^ 


end  was  a  tragic  one, 
for  he  was  poisoned 
by  a  nephew  to 
whom  he  had  be- 
queathed a  large 
portion  of  his  prop- 
erty. Though  he 
died  in  Richmond, 
Williamsburg  claims 
his  ghost,  and  it  is 
said  that  on  the  anni- 
versary of  his  death, 
the  8th  of  June,  a 
shadowy  form  in  an- 
tique garb  glides 
from  out  the  closet 
of  his  chamber  in 
the  old  house,  and  a 
cold  hand  is  gently 
laid  upon  the  face  of 

the  sleeper  in  the  room.  After  the  Chancellor's  death  the 
property  passed  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  Henry  Skipwith,  the 
third  husband  of  the  beautiful  Elizabeth  Byrd,  of  Westover, 
on  ihe  James. 

'I'he  wraith  of  the  fair  Elizabeth,  also,  occasionally  honors 


WILLIAM    AND    MARY    COLLEGE. 

The  college  buildings  stand  marshalled  on  three  sides  of 
the  old  campus  at  the  western  end  of  Duke  of  Gloucester 
Street,  the  main  house  facing  toward  the  street,  while   the 

President's  house 
and  ISrafferton  stare 
at  one  another  across 
the  campus.  The 
two  latter  are  plain 
square  buildings  of 
considerable  age. 
The  schools  have 
been  three  times  de- 
stroyed by  fire.  The 
original  buildings 
were  "  the  composi- 
tion of  Sir  Christo- 
pher VVren,"  and  pre- 
sumably very  fine. 
They  were  burned 
in  1705,  "  the  Gov- 
ernor and  all  the 
gentlemen  that  were 
in    town    coming    to 

William  and  Mary  College,  Williamsburg.  ,        ,  ,  , 

the  lainentable  spec- 
tacle, many  of  them  getting  out  of  their  beds."  Of  the  second 
structure^  we  only  know  that  Mr.  Jefferson,  who,  by  the  way. 


iThe  third  of  the  series  is  evidently  meant  here.  The  second 
building,  erected  by  Governor  Spotswood,  was  burned  in  1746, 
when  Jefferson  was  only  three  or  four  years  old.  —  Eu. 


WILLIAM  AXD   MARY. 


19 


was  a  tremendous  critic  in  architectural  matters,  though 
perhaps  not  always  successful  in  the  application  of  his 
theories  to  practice,  thought  it  looked  very  like  a  brick-kiln. 
There  is  now  very  little  of  interest  about  the  place  from 
an  architectural  point-of-view,  or  to  one  in  search  of  the 
picturesque. 

The  statue  in  white  marble  of  Xorborne  Berkeley,  Baron 
Botetourt,  which  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  campus,  was 
erected  by  the  Assembly  shortly  after  the  death  of  Lord 
Botetourt  in  1770,  in  grateful  memory  of  a  governor  who  was 
everywhere  esteemed  througliout  the  colony.  He  was  a 
liberal  patron  of  the  college,  to  which  he  gave  many  prizes, 
and  at  the  time  of  his  death  he  was  earnestly  striving  to  win 
from  the  home  government  repeal  of  the  acts  which  had 
given  such  offense  to  the  colonists.  The  ravages  of  time  or 
fortunes  of  war  have  despoiled  the  marble  baron  of  his  aris- 
tocratic nose,  and  some  night-prowling  and  irreverent  under- 


urged  that  Virginians  had  souls  to  save  as  well  as  the  Eng- 
lish, he  thundered  out,  "Souls!  Damn  your  souls!  Make 
tobacco !  " 

In  the  library,  among  many  costly  treasures  in  rare  old 
volumes  and  prints,  are  two  portraits  of  Parson  Blair  done 
at  different  periods  in  his  stormy  and  eventful  life. 


^^cj^ 


THE    POWDER-HOUSE,    WILLIAMSBURG. 

There  are  to  be  seen  at  the  post-office,  in  Williamsburg, 
some  interesting  old  files  of  tlie  Virginia  Gazette,  started  at 
Williamsburg  in  1736,  the  first,  and  for  many  years  the  only, 
newspaper  published  in  the  colony.  Its  columns  contained 
local  news,  the  latest  advices  from  England  and  the  Con- 
tinent—  not  more  than  a  month  or  two  out  of  date  —  the 


graduate  had,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  affixed  a  gory  streak  of  fortnightly  mail  from  the  North  and  the  monthly  post  from 
red  sealing  wax  across  the  august  countenance,  lending  an  'he  South,  dignified  commentaries  on  current  topics,  and  ad- 
ensanguined  and  hostile  look  to  the  benign  features.  vertisements  of  quaint  and  curious  flavor.  Among  the  locals 
Old  William  and  Mary  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being,  this  one  about  the  old  powder-house  affair  is  worth  reading  : 
after  Harvard,  the  oldest  college  in  America,  and  she  has  "This  morning,  between  three  and    four  o'clock,  all  the 


counted  among  her  sons 
very  many  of  the  great 
ones  of  our  land,  having 
"sent  out  for  their  work  in 
the  world  twenty-seven 
soldiers  of  the  Revolution, 
two  attorney-generals, 
nearly  twenty  members  of 
Congress,  fifteen  senators, 
seventeen  governors,  tliirty- 
seven  judges,  a  lieutenant- 
general  and  other  officers, 
two  commodores,  twelve 
professors,  four  signers  of 
the  Declaration,  seven 
cabinet  officers,  a  chief 
justice,  and  three  presi- 
dents of  the  Republic." 

In  colonial  times  it  was 
the  only  educational  estab- 
lishment of  the  rank  of  a  college  in  all  Virginia,  and  directed 
the  intellectual  training  of  a  majority  of  the  best  men  in  the 
colony,  although  a  very  aristocratic  few  of  the  sons  of  the 
wealthier  families  were  sent  over  to  Eton  and  Oxford. 

The  history  of  tiie  college  is  closely  interwoven  with  that 
of  James  Blair,  Commissary  to  tiie  Bishop  of  London  and 
Rector  of  Bruton  Parish,  who  was  its  founder,  first  president 
and  lifelong  defender.  The  colony  sent  him  to  England  on 
a  mission  to  King  William  in  behalf  of  the  projected  insti- 
tution, and  he  returned  in  1693  with  the  charter  of  the  col- 
lege signed  by  their  majesties,  \\'illiam  and  Mary.  It 
was  liberally  endowed  with  rich  lands,  a  sum  of  /'2,ooo, 
arrears  of  quit-rents,  one  penny  per  pound  on  exports  of 
tobacco,  the  office-fees  and  emolunienis  of  Surveyor-general 
and  a  seat  in  the  Assembly,  and  was  founded  as  '"  a  semin- 
ary of  ministers  of  the  Gospel  where  youths  may  be  piously 
educated  in  good  letters  and  manners  ;  a  certain  place  of 
universal  study,  or  perpetual  college  of  divinity,  philosophy, 
language,  and  other  good  aris  and  sciences." 

The  English  Attorney-general  Seymour,  when  ordered  to 
draw  up  the  charter,  objected  to  tlie  expenditure  of  public 
funds  for  making  divinity-students  while  England  was  at 
war  and  wanting  soldiers,  and  to  the  redoubtable  Pilair,  who 


The  Nfkon  House,  Yorktown.* 


powder  in  the  magazine  to 
the  amount,  as  we  hear,  of 
twenty  barrels,  was  carried 
off  in  His  Excellency  the 
Governor's  wagon  escorted 
by  a  detachment  of  marines 
from  the  armed  schooner 
'■Magdalen,'  now  lying  at 
Burwell's  Ferry,  and 
lodged  on  board  that  ves- 
sel " —  whereupon  "the 
whole  city  was  alarmed 
and  greatly  exasperated." 
In  a  later  issue,  account 
is  given  of  indignation- 
meetings  among  tlie  citi- 
zens, and  the  full  text  of  a 
long-winded  and  eloquent 
address  of  remonstrance 
by  the  Hon.  Peyton  Ran- 
dolph and  a  deputation,  upon  hearing  which  Lord  Dunmore 
flies  into  a  fine  rage,  and  talks  of  burning  the  town. 

A  few  days  after,  we  read,  the  people  seize  all  the  arms  in 
the  powder-house,  and  His  Lordship  sends  over  to  the 
"  Fowey,"  lying  at  Yorktown,  for  troops.  A  squad  of  soldiers 
are  marched  over  to  Williamsburg,  and  mount  guard  on 
Palace  Green  before  the  Governor's  house.  The  ^'' Fowey' s" 
captain  meanwhile  has  informed  Mr.  Thomas  Nelson,  the 
principal  citizen  of  Yorktown,  that  in  case  the  Williams- 
burgers  attack  his  men  the  guns  of  the  "Fowey"  will 
open  upon  Yorktown  without  furtner  warning.     The  warlike 


•TiiK  Nf.i.sox  Housk,  Yokktown'.  —  Down  tlie  peninsula 
from  West  Point  is  one  of  the  dead  ])laccs  of  this  more  than  alive 
contiiiL'iit.  'I'liis  (juaint  old  remnant  of  a  town,  with  its  glorious 
jiast.  situated  on  one  of  tlie  finest  harbors  in  the  world,  contains 
four  si)ots  of  especial  interest:  The  first  Custom-house  of  the 
United  States;  the  Moore  House,  where  the  capitulation  of 
Coruwallis's  surrender  was  signed  ;  the  beautiful  monument  raised 
in  i.SSi  l)y  the  Cnited  States  to  commemorate  tlie  surrender  of 
Coruwallis,  and  the  Nelson  House,  whose  grim  walls  contain  the 
shells  of  the  Revolution  imbedded  therein.  The  spacious  interior 
of  this  old  mansion  has  echoed  with  the  tread  of  Washini;tou, 
Lafayette,  Coruwallis,  'I'lionias  Jefferson  and  many  another  fjjreat 
man.  'I'he  last  Nelson  has  left  it  and  it  stands  tenantless  await- 
in;,'  the  fate  it  deserves,  the  protection  of  the  t'niled  .States 
Covernment. S".  N.  R. 


20 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


aspect  of  affairs  fii)ally  reaches  a  climax  wiien  news  is  brought 
that  Patriclc  Henry  is  marching  on  the  capital,  at  the  head  of 
5,000  men,  to  demand  redress  of  these  tyrannous  abuses. 
In  the  last  chapter  of  the  story  Lord  Dunmore  pays  the 
value  of  the  powder,  and  Mr.  Henry's  forces  disband  and 
return  to  their  homes. 

The  powder-house,  now  called  the  "  Old  Powder  Horn," 
was  built  by  Alexander  Spotswood'  early  in  the  eighteenth 
century.  This  Governor  is  said  to  have  done  more  for  the 
general  improvement  of  the  colony  than  any  of  his  prede- 
cessors. He  was  the  son  of  a  distinguished  Scottish  cava- 
lier who  had  died  upon  the  scaffold  for  devotion  to  his  King. 


Tile  Powder  house,  Williamsburg. 

A  brave  soldier  —  he  served,  it  is  said,  on  the  staff  of  Marl- 
borough—  and  a  most  accomplished  gentleman,  Spotswood 
possessed  administrative  abilities  of  a  high  order.  His 
policy  of  peace  with  the  Indians  was  eminently  successful, 
and  his  project  of  requiring  the  chiefs  of  tribes  to  send  their 
sons  to  be  trained  in  the  schools  of  the  whites  was  productive 
of  great  good. 

The  most  picturesque  incident  of  Governor  Spotswood's 
rule  was  his  leading  a  party  of  young  explorers  from 
Williamsburg  across  the  Alleghanies  and  into  the  unknown 
regions  beyond.  It  was  a  royal  frolic,  and  in  about  six 
weeks  the  expedition  rode  back  covered  with  glory  and 
stocked  with  romantic  stories  of  the  marvels  of  that  ultitna 
Thitle,  the  beautiful  Valley  of  Virginia.  Spotswood  dubbed 
his  young  adventurers  "Knights  of  the  Horseshoe,"  and  be- 
fore disbanding  the  company  he  gave  them  each  a  golden 
horseshoe  to  be  worn  thereafter  upon  the  lapel  in  memory 
of  the  affair.  King  George  hearing  of  these  brave  doings 
intimated  his  gracious  pleasure  by  sending  over  to  Spots- 
wood  a  little  jewelled  horseshoe  and  a  baronetcy. 

On  leaving  office,  the  Governor  retired  to  his  country-seat 
at  Germanna,  whither  came  Colonel  Byrd,  of  Westover,  in 
due  course,  to  visit  his  old-time  friend,  finding  "Colonel 
Spotswood's  enchanted  castle  on  one  side  of  the  street  and 
a  baker's  dozen  of  ruinous  tenements  on  the  other  side;  there 
was,  also,  a  chapel  about  a  bow's-shot  from  the  Governor's 
house,  at  the  end  of  an  avenue  of  cherry-trees,"  and  the 
Governor's  iron  foundries,  the  first  in  the  colony. 

The  old  powder-house,  to  return  from  our  little  digression, 
is  a  tall,  eight-sided  brick  tower  crowned  with  a  high  conical 
roof.     The  double  wall  has  fallen  in  on  one  side  and  bulges 

'  On  November  1 1,  1896,  Williamsburg  was  the  scene  of  a  con- 
siderable festivity,  the  occasion  being  the  unveiling  of  a  memorial 
stained-glass  window  placed  in  the  old  ■'  I'owder  Horn  "'  by  a 
descendant  of  (lovernor  Spotswood.  'I'lie  design  of  the  glasswork 
includes  a  three-t|uarter-length  portrait  of  the  (iovernor,  his  armo- 
rial bearings  and  family  devices.  IJeneath  the  glass  is  a  brass 
tablet  which  records  tliat  : 

"  In  memory  of  William  Francisco  Spotswood  tliis  is  erected  : 

To  preserve  the  honor  of  Alexander  Spotswood,  who,  under  Anne 
and  (leorge,  Sovereigns,  by  the  (".race  of  God,  of  England,  Scot- 
land. Ireland  and  France,  served  as  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the 
I'rovince  of  \'irginia,  from  the  year  1710  to  the  year  1722." — Eij. 


badly  on  the  other  faces,  the  decaying  roof-timbers  threaten 
to  collapse,  and  the  handsome  wrought-iron  finial  leans  dis- 
mally askew.  'I'he  "  Old  Powder-horn  "  is  almost  a  wreck, 
indeed.  The  surroundings  are  not  what  one  could  wish  for 
so  interesting  a  relic  ;  in  fact,  the  old  magazine  stands  in  a 
stable-yard,  and  is  partly  hid  from  the  view  of  the  passer-by 
on  Duke  of  Gloucester  Street  by  tall  and  very  unbeautiful 
board  fences.  A  movement  is  on  foot  to  purchase  the  build- 
ing, with  a  small  plat  of  ground  about  it,  from  the  present 
rather  unappreciative  owner.  When  this  much  may  be  ac- 
complished, it  is  proposed  to  rebuild  the  fallen  wall  with  the 
old  bricks,  which  lie  where  they  fell,  to  tie  the  walls  securely, 
to  support  the  roof  with  some  auxiliary  framing,  and  so  to 
arrest  the  threatened  collapse  of  the  tower.  But  a  small 
sum  will  be  needed  to  carry  out  the  work.- 


Q 


a 


JAMESTOWN      CHURCH. 

The  road  from  Williamsburg  to  the  ancient  site  of  James- 
town, assuredly  not  among  the  best  of  roads,  passes  out  of 
the  town  by  the  campus  of  old  Williain  and  Mary,  and,  bears 
off  toward  the  southwest  over  a  rolling  country.  Plunging 
into  little  valleys,  scaling  steep,  short  hills,  winding  through 
belts  of  the  forest  primeval,  or  diving  into  dark,  damp  places 
where  gnarled  roots  and  stumps  cotnbine  with  mud-holes  of 
amazing  muddiness  to  produce  an  interesting  variety  of  sensa- 
tions, the  old  road  ineanders  on  toward  the  river,  growing 
ever  worse.     Descending  at  last  into  a  reedy  marsh  of  broad 

extent,  which  is  crossed  upon 
a  bed  of  roughest  corduroy, 
bearing  evidence  of  complete 
submergence  at  high  water, 
and  suggestive  of  being  a 
very  uncomfortable  place  on 
a  dark  night  and  a  full  tide, 
and  on  the  farther  side  of  the 
marsh  going  over  a  shaky 
bridge  which  spans  the  inside 
channel  of  the  river,  the  road 
arrives  upon  the  historic  soil 
of  Jamestown  Island. 

From  this  point  there  form- 
erly stretched  to  the  mainland 
a  narrow  neck  of  land,  where 
readers  of  colonial  history  will 


The  Church  Tower,  Jamestown. 


remember  Sir  William  Berkeley  and  his  motley  troop  from 
Accomack  making  their  famous  stand  against  the  invading 
army  of  the  rebel  Bacon.  But  the  isthmus  is  long  since 
sunk  out  of  sight,  and  now  the  yellow  waters  of  the  James 
lap  all  sides  of  the  foriner  peninsula.  The  island  contains 
nearly  seventeen  hundred  acres,  lying  in  a  long,  narrow 
strip  of  land,  two-thirds  of  whose  entire  area  is  marsh  sub- 
ject to  overflow.     Near  the  western  end  of  the  island  is  the 

"  The  work  of  restoration  here  spoken  of  as  desirable  has  since 
been  carried  out  through  the  efforts  of  certain  associations  of  ladies 
who  have  patriotically  made  it  their  task  to  preserve  some  of  the 
interesting  relics  of  early  Mrginian  times.  Not  only  has  the  old 
I'owder  House  been  restored  by  these  ladie.s,  but  they  have  also 
purchased  the  Mary  Washington  house  in  Fredericksburg,  in 
which  the  mother  of  Washington  lived  and  died:  rendered  ma- 
terial aid  in  the  restoration  of  old  St.  Luke's  Church,  in  Isle  of 
Wight  County,  the  oldest  Protestant  church  in  this  country,  and 
done  equal  justice  to  Christ  Church,  in  Lancaster  County,  and  have 
made  efforts  towards  the  preservation  of  what  still  remains  of 
Jamestown.  It  is  comforting  to  believe  that  this  movement  will 
gain  strength  with  the  passage  of  time.  —  Ed. 


JAMESTOWN  CHURCHES. 


21 


crumbling,  mossy,  ivy-grown  ruin  of  a  brick  cliurch-tower, 
about  all  that  is  left  of  the  ancient  place.  Standing  in  a 
copse  of  fine  old  trees,  the  ruined  tower  is  very  picturesque, 
and  has  an  interest  in  itself  apart  from  that  which  clings  to 
it  as  the  old-time  place  of  worship  of  that  wonderful  band  of 
adventurers  who  founded  Jamestown,  the  first  permanent 
English  settlement  in  America.  The  tower  is  eighteen  feet 
square,  and  is  pierced  on  two  of  its  sides  by  high,  round- 
arched  openings.  It  is  built  of  a  small,  dull-red  English 
brick  laid  in  the  Flemish  bond. 

Beyond  it  the  foundations  of  the  old  church  are  traceable, 
covering  an  oblong  space  of  twenty-eight  (28)  by  fifty-si.x 
(56)  feet,  and  close  by  is  a  wall  built  in  the  latter  part  of 
the  eighteenth  century  from  the  ruined  wall  of  the  old 
enclosure  around  about  one-third  of  the  original  churchyard. 
Within  are  some  ancient  tombs,  upon  which  one  deciphers, 
under  the  moss  and  rime,  quaint  epitaphs  of  Amblers  and 
Jacquelines,  Sudwells  and  Lees.'  Of  these,  the  Jacquelines 
and  Amblers  for  many  generations  were  the  principal  own- 
ers of  the  island,  as  the  Lees  and  Sudwells  were  of  Green 
Spring,  some  few  miles  distant,  and  famous  as  the  home  and 
place  of  retirement  of  that  staunch  old  royalist.  Sir  William 
Berkeley.  After  that  dismal  morning  in  1649  at  Whitehall, 
the  old  cavalier,  his  governorship  given  to  the  hated  Round- 
head, his  idol  dead,  the  faith  for  which  he  liad  lived  and 
would  gladly  have  died,  i\\t  jus  divinuvi,  trampled  under  foot 
by  clods  and  boors,  found  in  peaceful  rural  life,  in  the 
company  of  his  wife  and  friends  at  his  modest  house  at 
Green  Spring,  a  balm  for  all  his  wounds.  Here  he  waited 
and  watched  events,  through  those  long,  stern  years  of  the 
Protectorate,  until  "Noll"  was  gone  and  the  son  of  Charles 
had  come  unto  his  own  again,  when  the  fierce  old  knight 
held  the  reins  once  more  over  the  young  colony.  Berkeley 
died  in  England  in  1677,  leaving  Green  Spring  to  his  widow, 
who  afterward  married  Colonel  Philip  Sudwell. 


'Stratfokd  Hf)rsK,  Wkstmorki-And  Co.,  \'.\.  —  It  is  very 
fortunate  for  tiie  present  occupants  tliat  •■  .Stratford  "  is  so  inac- 
cessible both  to  the  idolaters  of  Ceneral  Robert  K.  l.ee.  for  in 
this  house  he  was  born,  and  to  those  who  liave  an  arcl;iteclural 


"  Something  special  in  the  way  of  notice  is  due  to  the  con- 
dition of  the  tombs  of  Commissary  and  Mrs.  Blair,  the  latter 
being  the  daughter  of  Philip  Sudwell,  of  Green  Spring,  who 
married  Sarah  Grymes,  of  Middlesex.  The  tombs  were 
placed  side  by  side,  and  were  very  heavy  and  strong.  The 
platform,  sides  and  ends  were  of  white  freestone,  and  the 
interior  filled  with  bricks  well  cemented.  The  top  slabs,  on 
which  the  inscriptions  were  made,  are  of  dark  ironstone  or 
black  marble.  A  sycamore  shoot  sprang  up  between  the 
graves,  and  is  now  a  large  tree.  In  its  growth  it  embraced, 
on  one  end  and  on  the  top,  the  tomb  of  Mrs.  Blair,  one- 
third  of  which  lies  embedded 
in  the  body  of  the  tree  and  is 
held  immovable.  All  the  in- 
terior, consisting  of  brick,  and 
two  of  the  side  stones,  have 
been  entirely  forced  out  of 
their  places  by  the  tree,  and 
lie  scattered  around,  while  the 
dark  ironstone  is  held  in  the 
air  three  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  earth,  fast  bound 
by  the  embrace  of  the  body  of 
the  tree  into  which  it  is  sunk 
between  one  and  two  feet,  the 
inscription  being  only  par- 
tially legible.  On  the  other 
side,  the  whole  tomb  of  Com- 
missary Blair  has  been  forced 
from  its  place  by  the  roots 
and  body  of  the  tree,  and  is  broken  to  pieces  in  all  its  parts." 
This  account  of  the  old  graveyard  is  from  Bishop  Meade's 
"  Old  Churches"  and  the  date  of  the  ruined  tower  is  discussed 
at  some  length  by  the  same  eminent  authority,  who  says : 

"As  there  are  conflicting  opinions  concerning  the  date  of 
the  erection  of  this  old  church  —  some  affirming  that  what 
we  see  are  the  ruins  of  that  which  was  destroyed  in  Bacon's 
Rebellion,  while  others  affirm  the  building  of  a  new  one 
after  that  event  —  we  will  briefly  state  the  facts  bearing  on 
the  case.  Tiie  history  of  the  succession  of  the  Jamestown 
churches    is    as   follows :    The   first    place    of   worship,    as 

from  the  landing  and  the  walking;  over  the  \'irginian  country  road 
is  not  of  tlie  best.  Architecturallv,  Stratford  is  of  mucli  interest 
bv  reason  of  its  huge  cliimnev-stacks  and  tlic  fact  that  the  house  is 
entered  at  tlie  tirst-story  level.     'I'he  present  structure  was  built  to 


Jamestown. 


^<l^^ 


Slralford  Hniifo,  Wislnicrel.ird  ('n.,  V.t. 


or  historical  interest  in  the  buildings  of  the  Colonial  times.  1  he 
boat  touches  at  the  primitive  landing  nearest  to  the  place  Roini; 
but  does  not  stoj)  on  the  way  back,  so  that  as  there  are  only  two 
trips  a  week  the  unwary  traveller  may  find  liimself  unsxpictedly 
stranded  for  two  or  tluee  davs,  at  a  place  where  tliere  is  no  hotel 
to  take  refuge  in.      liesides  tliis.  Stratford,  itself,  is  s;veral   miles 


rejjlace  tlie  cirii;inal  house  destroyed  by  fire,  whereof  the  destruc- 
tion liad  so  moved  Oueen  Caroline  that,  although  she  knew  the 
owner.  Mr.  Tliomas  l.ee,  only  by  reputation,  she  sent  hini  money 
to  be  used  in  rebuilding.  .Stratford  House,  therefore,  dates  from 
early  in  the  second  <|uarter  of  the  eighteenth  centurv.  and  is  a 
token  of  tlie  generous  sympathy  of  tlie  wife  of  ( Icorge  II.  —  Ym. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


described  by  Captain  Smith,  was  made  of  tlie  awning,  or  old 
sails,  taken  from  vessels  and  fastened  to  trees.  The  second 
was  a  very  plain  log  building,  which  was  burned  down  in  the 
second  or  third  year  of  the  colony,  during  the  ministry  of 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Hunt." 

In  his  ''History  of  Virginia"  Captain  Smith,  himself, 
writes  at  some  length  about  the  church  and  its  pastor  : 

"  The  log  church  firll  erected  was  burned  down  the  fol- 
lowing winter  with  many  other  houfes.  Mr.  Hunt  loft  all 
his  books  and  everything  elfe  but  the  clothes  on  his  back. 
Yet  none  ever  faw  him  repine  at  his  lofs." 

Robert  Hunt  came  over  in  1606  with  the  first  company, 
and  was  bv  all  accounts  a  most  noble  character. 


THLS  is  probably  as  appropriate  a  point  as  any  to  interject  such 
material  as  we  have  been  able  to  gather  relating  to  the  eccle- 
siastical architecture  of  the  period  in  \'irginia.  so  sharply  varied  in 
character,  so  ditterent  from  tlie  colonial  churclies  of  New  England, 
not  only  in  material  but  in  design.  The  following  disjoined  notes 
are  therefore  inserted  here.  —  Ku. 

CrxNiXGHAM  CiiAPEL.  Cl.vukk  Co.,  \'a. —  '•  Aniong  the  first 
tilings  done  by  the  vestry  of  Frederick,  after  its  reorganization  in 
1787,  was  the  adoption  of  measures  for  the  building  of  a  stone 
chapel  where  it  was  designed  to  erect  that  one  wliich  failed, 
through  the  disagreement  of  the  people  and  vestry,  just  before  the 
Revolution,  viz,  where  that  called  Cunningham's  Chapel  stood. 
The  land  having  now  come  into  the  possession  of  Colonel  Na- 
thaniel ISurwell,  the  same  two  acres  for  a  church  and  burying- 
ground,  which  were  offered  by  Colonel  Hugh  Nelson  before  the 
war,  were  now  given  by  Colonel  liurwell.  and  the  present  stone 
chapel  was  ordered  to  be  built  in  i  790.  At  what  time  it  was  com- 
pleted does  not  appear,  but  probably  in  the  same  year."  —  Bishop 
Meade's  "  Old  CJifiriJies  and  FamiUes  of  l^irginia.''' 

Between  the  years  1740  and  1750,  Cunningham  Chapel,  a  log 
structure,  was  built  at  a  cost  of  ^49  Virginia  money.  About  i  790 
this  was  replaced  l)v  a  stone  church,  near  the  same  spot  and  upon 
the  two  acres  of  land  given  by  Colonel  Nathaniel  liurwell  for  a 
church  and  a  cemetery.  This  is  by  far  the  most  interesting  .spot 
in  the  county.  .  .  .  Thev  have  a  custom  in  this  unique  com- 
munity of  meeting  on  All  Saint's  Day  to  bring  flowers  with  which 
to  honor  the  graves  of  their  ancestors.  'Tis  a  reverent  ceremony 
and  full  of  love,  yet  it  is  also  a  joyous  time,  usually  a  time  of 
radiant  sunshine  and  beauty  and  also  of  l)ecoming  autumnal 
sadness. 

Modern  churches  have  accommodated  modern  needs,  but  mid- 
summer brings  eacli  year  the  divided  neighborhood  together,  and 
once  again  they  kneel  around  the  cliancel  and  do  as  their  fathers 
did.     The  selfsame  velvet  bag  at  the  end  of  a  long  rod  receives 


The  Cunningham  (Jhajiel,  commonly  known  as  "Old  Ch;ipel,"  Clarke  Co.,  Va. 
[Date,  17'jo.l 

the  coin,  and  the  tall-backed  pews  almost  liide  each  from  his  neigh- 
l)or.  "I'is  hut  a  step  into  the  cemetery,  and  here  the  great,  great 
ij^raiuU  hild  will  visit  the  toml)  of  liis  fathers  and  know  liis  place 


"  Upon  any  alarm  he  was  as  ready  at  defence  as  any,  and 
till  he  could  not  fpeak  he  never  ceafed  to  his  utmoft  to  ani- 
mate us  continually  to  perlift." 

The  "■  Advertiseinetiis  for  the  Unexperienced  Planters  of  New 
England  or  Else^vhere,  etc,"  a  pamphlet  published  by  John 
Smith  in  1631,  contains  a  more  detailed  account  of  the 
churches  during  his  stay  in  the  colony  : 

"When  I  went  firft  to  Virginia,  I  well  remember,  we  did 
hang  an  awning — which  is  an  old  fail  —  to  three  or  four 
trees,  to  fliadow  us  from  the  fun  ;  our  walls  were  rails  of 
wood,  our  feats  were  unhewed  trees  till  we  cut  planks,  our 
pulpit  a  bar  of  wood  nailed  to  two  neighboring  trees;  in  foul 
weather  we  fliifted  into  an  old  rotten  tent,  for  we  had  few 

will  be  among  them.  Many  wander  far  away  from  it,  but  all 
return  to  die  and  rest  under  the  shadow  of  its  trees  after  the  last 
service  is  done.  So  all  these  I'ages,  and  IJurwells,  and  Nelsons, 
and  Whitings,  and  Harrisons,  and  Randolphs,  and  Meades,  and 
Cookes,  and  Carters,  these  all  have  lived  upon  this  soil,  and  now 
hundreds  of  them  lie  buried  beneath  a  dear  sod,  awaiting  a  blessed 
resurrection.  —  M.  P.  Dtival. 


Wai^e  Church,  Gloucester  Co.,  Va.  —  Recalling  the  archi- 
tectural characteristics  of  Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  of  Bruton 
Church,  and  of  St.  Peter's,  buildings  that  may  be  called  complete 


i.rs.j 


■  Airangrment  of  brick  work  ■ 
■Light  and.  d^rk 


Ware  Church,  Gloucester  Co  ,  Va. 


in  ecclesiastical  architectural  forms,  we  made  especial  efforts  to 
procure  illustrations  of  the  churches  at  Ware  and  Abingdon,  which 
from  several  different  sources  we  learned  had  the  reputation  of 
being  the  "  most  interesting  colonial  churches  in  \'irginia."  It 
was  then  with  a  pardonable  feeling  of  disappointment  that  we 
subsequently  discovered  that  Ware  Church  is  exteriorly  but  a 
simple  little  brick  structure  with  a  pitch  roof,  tlie  wooden  cornice 
at  the  eaves  rather  crudely  treated  and  the  door  and  window  treat- 
ment giving  no  evidence  beyond  good  straiglitforward  work  of  any 
especial  care  on  the  part  of  the  designer.  \'ery  likely  the  reputa- 
tion of  the  little  building  rests  on  its  interior  treatment,  but  of  this 
we  have  been  able  to  learn  nothing.  But  its  simplicity  bespeaks 
its  age  and  at  tlie  same  time  seems  to  give  the  lie  to  the  date 
asserted  to  belong  to  St.  Luke's,  at  Smithfield.  —  Ed. 


St.  Luke's,  S.mithfiei.d.  —  "The  present  village  was  incor- 
porated in  1752.  It  finished  its  growth  a  long  time  ago,  when  it 
had  acquired  a  population  of  about  one  thousand.  It  is  not  a 
dihijiidated  town,  liowever,  but  seems  fairlv  prosperous,  with 
a  good  class  of  dwellings  and  a  very  few  handsome  ones.  All  in 
all,  it  is  very  attractive,  with  fine,  old-fashioned,  colonial-looking 
houses  in  large,  pleasant  grounds,  with  abundant  and  large  shade- 
trees.  It  is  at  tile  head  of  the  creek,  also  known  as  Warraskovack, 
under  many  spellings,  five  or  six  miles  off  the  James.  Just  before 
reaching  the  village  the  creek  doubles  on  itself,  running  back  at 
the  foot  of  a  high  ridge  to  form  a  long  peninsula.  Among  the 
residents  this  is  now  known  as  Pagan  creek,  or  river;  whether  in 
remembrance  of  its  ancient  or  modern  inhabitants  does  not  appear. 
When  they  want  an  '  appropriation  '  it  is  Pagan  river,  as,  in  its 
beneficence.  Congress  draws  the  line  at  creeks. 

"  To  most  readers  Smithfield  is  only  associated  with  a  brand  of 
ham.  There  is,  in  fact,  a  ham  factory,  whose  product  is  held  in 
high  repute.  Where  they  procure  the  raw  material  is  not  evident. 
The  '  Isle  of  Hogges,'  where  the  first  colonists  sent  their  swine 
to  live  as  best  they  might  on  what  they  should  find  or  turn  up.  is 


VIRGINIA    CHURCHES. 


better,  and  this  came  by  way  of  adventure  for  new.  This 
was  our  church  till  we  built  a  homely  thing  like  a  barn,  fet 
up  on  crotchets,  covered  with  rafts,  fedge  and  earth ;  fo  was 
alfo  the  walls.  The  bell  of  our  houfes  were  of  the  like  curi- 
ofity,  but  the  moft  part  far  much  worfe  workmanfliip,  that 
could  neither  well  defend  wind  nor  rain;  yet  we  had  daily 
Common  Prayer  morning  and  evening,  every  Sunday  two 
fermons,  and  every  three  months  the  holy  communion  till 
our  minifter  died.     .     .     ."' 

During  Smith's  survey  of  the  Chesapeake,  not  the  least  of 
his  great  achievements,  the  Indians  burned  the  church.  He 
had  it  rebuilt  at  once  upon  his  return.  "  Now  the  building 
of  the  palace  was  flayed  as  a  thing  needlefs,  and  the  church 
was  repaired." 

a  few  miles  above,  in  the  James.  In  driving  about  we  saw  only  a 
few  razor-backs  that  looked  as  though  they  niii;ht  have  been  an 
escape  from  the  original  drove.  The  quality  of  the  hams,  eaten, 
as  it  were,  on  their  native  heath,  is  undeniably  good.  What  your 
grocer  sells  you  under  this  laljel,  '  well,  that  is  another  story.' 
Sweet-potatoes,  and  especially  peanuts,  are  a  large  article  of 
export. 

"  Nearly  all  the  houses  have  been  built  lona;  enough  to  have  a 
somewhat  old-time  air  about  them.  Many  date  from  about  the 
beginning  of  the  century,  and  a  half  dozen  from  the  incorporation 
of  the  town.     As  interesting  as  any  is  the  old  court-house,  built 


Of  the  further  history  of  the  churches,  Meade  continues: 

"The  third  was  a  larger  and  better  one,  probably  of  wood, 
built  during  the  presidency  of  Captain  Smith,  and  in  a  ruin- 
ous or  neglected  condition  when  Lord  De  La  War  arrived, 
in  1611,  who  immediately  ordered  that  the  church  be 
thoroughly  repaired.  Strachey,  Secretary  and  Recorder  of 
the  colony,  gives  this  description  of  it :  '  It  is  in  length 
three-fcore  foot,  in  breadth  twenty-four,  and  fliall  have  a 
chancel  in  it  of  cedar,  a  communion-table  of  black  walnut, 
and  all  the  pews  of  cedar,  with  fair,  broad  windows,  to  fliut 
and  open  —  as  the  weather  fliall  occafion — of  the  fame  wood, 
a  pulpit  of  the  fame,  with  a  font  hewn  below  like  a  canoe, 
with  two  bells  at  the  well  end.  It  is  fo  cafle,  as  it  be  very 
light  within,  and  the  Lord  Governor  and  Captain-General 


leading  to  it.  lieyond.  the  road  winds  pleasantly  amonjj  fields  of 
peanut-s  and  sweet-potatoes.  We  come  finally  to  a  wooded  ravine, 
througli  which  flows  a  clear,  swift-running  brook,  a  veritable 
phenomenon  in  this  part  of  the  country.  At  the  foot  of  a  rock  is 
a  spring,  considerably  walled  up,  with  a  nice  new  oyster-shell  from 
which  the  weary  traveller  may  cjuench  his  thirst.  At  the  top  of 
the  hill  beyond,  in  the  midst  of  a  grove  of  large  native  trees,  oaks, 
button-wood  and  walnut,  venerable  with  thrice  the  supposititious 
years  of  ■  the  many-wintered  crow,'  stands  the  oldest  J'rotestant 
Churcli  building  in  America.  It  was  built  in  1632,  only  ten  years 
after  the  Indian  massacre. 


.St.  Lulte's,  .Siiiitlifit 

about  an  even  hundred  years  ago.  It  has  long  been  transformed 
into  a  dwellinji,  the  county  scat  havinji  been  removed  to  Isle  of 
Wijjht.  In  this  house  the  wife  of  the  late  (General  Mahone  was 
born  and  raised.  The  front  has  been  modernized  bv  the  addition 
of  porches,  l)ut  the  back  part  remains  unaltered.  There  was  the 
judge's  bencli,  the  bar  and  jury-box.  the  court-room  extendint;  for- 
ward toward  the  street.  The  small  brick  building  on  the  corner 
was  the  clerk's  office,  and  remains  unchanj^ed. 

"  liut  the  object  of  chief  interest,  that  wliich  brought  the  writer 
to  Smithfield.  is  not  there,  but  five  miles  out  on  tlie  Suffolk  road. 
We  cross  a  Kickety  drawhridije  over  a  branch  of  the  creek,  which 
eats  its  way  indefinitely  uj)  into  the  land.  There  is  a  long  stretch 
of  salt  marsh,  with  its  corduroy  a  foot  under  water  at  high-tide. 


Id.     [Date,   1632.I 

"  At  that  time  the  entire  population  was  Episcopalian,  but  finally 
conditions  changed,  old  families  moved  away,  other  denominations 
sprang  up  and  the  service  in  the  old  church  could  no  longer  be 
kept  up.  The  years  went  by.  and  it  was  abandoned  and  left  to 
desolation.  The  roof-tree  fell  in,  the  windows  rotted  away  and  it 
stood  forlorn,  a  thing  of  dread  to  children  and  a  sad  memento  to 
the  old  of  the  vicissitude  of  things. 

•■  So  wide  an  interest  attached  to  the  building  that  an  effort  was 
made  to  restore  it.  Contributions  were  ol)tained  from  various 
Ijarts  of  the  country,  and  two  years  ago  |iS(;4]the  church  was 
rededicated  and  services  are  again  held.  Within,  it  is,  of  course, 
entirelv  new.     Without,  a  few  dozen  bricks  only  were  needed. 

••  Tlie   interior   is  handsomely  finished.     The  '  pictured  panes' 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


doth  caufe  it  to  be  kept  paflnig  fweet,  and  trimmed  up 
with  divers  flowers,  with  a  fexton  belonging  to  it.  Every 
Sunday,  wiien  tlie  Lord  Governor  and  Captain-General  goeth 
to  church,  he  is  accompanied  by  all  the  counfellors,  cap- 
tains, other  officers  and  all  the  gentlemen,  with  a  guard  of 
Halberdiers  in  his  Lordiliip's  livery  of  fair  red  cloakes,  to 


the  number  of  fifty,  on  each  fide  and  behind  him.  His 
Lordlhip  iiath  his  feat  in  the  Quoir,  in  a  great  velvet  chair, 
with  a  cloth,  with  a  velvet  culhion  fpread  before  him,  on 
which  he  kneeleth,  and  on  each  fide  fit  the  council,  captains 
and  officers,  each  in  their  place,  and  when  he  returnetli  home 
again  he  is  waited  on  to  his  houfe  in  the  fame  manner.' 


are  the  gift  of  individual  donors  and  societies.  Behind  the  altar  is 
a  handsome  and,  lor  the  size  of  the  building,  large  memorial  win- 
dow. In  the  floor  of  tlie  chancel  are  sot  two  tombstones,  brought 
from  the  old  Hridger  estate,  a  few  miles  away.  The  inscription  of 
the  one,  in  capital  letters,  the  dash  showing  the  division  on  the 
stone,  is  as  follows  :  'Sacred — To  ye  Memory  of — The  Honble 
Jol'eph  Bridger  —  Kfq.,  Councelr  of  State  in  \'irginia — to  King 
Charles  ye  2d  —  Dying  April  ve  15,  1686  —  Aged  59  Yeares  — 
Mournfully  Left  His  Wife,  3  Sons  &  4  Daughters.'  Below  is  a 
long  eulosv  in  verse,  written  without  division  into  lines  on  the 
stone.  1  quote  four  oat  of  the  twelve  :  '  Here  lies  ye  late  great 
niinider  of  State.  That  Royal  virtues  had  and  Royal  fate  To 
Charles  his  Councels  did  such  hon'rs  bring.  His  own  exprefs 
fetched  him  r"  attend  ye  King.'  This  man  was  the  paymaster 
general  of  the  liritish  troops  in  America  during  the  liacon  rebel- 
hon,  exactly  a  hundred  years  before  tlie  revolutionary  war.  His 
father  was  the  man  wlio  built  the  church. 

"  In  a  country  where  we  have  no  great  antiquities,  or  none  left 
by  our  race,  so  new  upon  this  continent,  such  a  memorial,  cover- 
ing almost  the  entire  period  of  our  history,  slujuld  have  an  ex- 
traordinary interest,  which  must  deepen  as  the  generations  go  by.'' 
—  Wcisliington  Star,  September,  1896. 


R«ar  View  of  Christ  Churcli,  Lancaster  Co  ,  Va.,  near  Carter's  Creek,  Rappalianock  Kiver,  1732 


Christ  Church,  Laxcastkr  Co.,  \ .\. — The  Philadelphia 
Times  published,  January  0,  1898,  the  following  account  of  a  build- 
ing which  should  be 
deserving  sometime  of 
a  complete  architect- 
ural record :  "In  a 
remote  corner  of  Lan- 
caster County,  Va.,  is 
an  old  Colonial  church 
whicli  is  generally  coii- 
ceded  to  be  the  quaint- 
est Ijuilding  in  \'irginia, 
and  is  said  to  have  the 
distinction  of  being 
the  only  church  in  this 
country  which  yet  re- 
mains exactly  as  it  was 
in  Colonial  davs. 
Other  Colonial 
churches  still  standing 
have  been  so  much 
'restored'  that  it  is 
well-ni<;h  impossible  to 
gain  from  theiu  an  ex- 
act idea  of  what  they 
formerly  w;ere.  This 
old  Christ  Church, 
thanks  probably  to  its  inacce.ssil3le  location  and  tlie  consequent 
withdrawal  of  its  congregation  to  other  churches,  has  had  no  alter- 
ations whatever  made  in  it  excepting  tliose  caused  by  time  :  these 
it  has  withstood  to  a  remarkable  degree,  owing  to  its  sturdy  and 
solid  construction. 

"The  church  was  built  in  the  year  1732  on  the  site  of  an  older 
one,  which  had  been  erected  nearly  seventy  years  before.  Much 
of  the  same  material  wliich  had  done  service  in  the  first  church 
was  used  in  building  the  second.  The  old  tombstones,  bearing 
dates  of  1669,  1674,  etc.,  were  carefully  removed  into  it,  as  was 
also  the  vestry-book  of  the  parish,  kept  from  the  year  1654  to 
1770,  a  volume  of  great  value  and  interest.  Recently  the  Society 
for  the  Preservation  of  Virginia  Antiquities  has  been  impressed 
with  the  importance  of  caring  for  so  uni(|ue  a  relic,  and  has 
donated  a  sum  to  be  used  in  preserving  the  building. 

"  The  location  of  the  church  makes  it  inaccessible  save  by  a 
day"s  journey  by  river,  so  comparatively  few  have  ever  seen  it. 
On  our  arrival,  we  found  the  quaintest  building  it  had  ever  been 
our  good  fiirttme  to  come  across.  (Uiarded  by  an  old  colored 
man,  who  lived  in  a  shanty  across  the  roadside,  who  fairly  beamed 
with  delight  on  seeing  u.s,  for  visitors  are  scarce  in  that  out-of-the- 
way  spot,  the  church,  which  he  regarded  with  the  pride  of  pro- 
prietorship, never  fails  to  elicit  admiration  from  all.  Accord- 
ingly, Uncle  'l"om  conducted  us  with  much  ceremony  into  the 
church,  which  is  built  in  the  shape  of  a  (Ireek  cross,  with  four 
beautiful   arches  sup])orting  tlie  centre   and  forming  a  loftv  dome, 


where  the  arms  of  the  cross  deflect.  The  brick  walls  are  3  feet 
thick.  The  pulpit  is  perched  hij^h  up  in  the  air  on  the  side  of  the 
nortlieast  archway,  and  to  get  into  it  one  has  to  perforin  the  rather 
difficult  feat  of  climbing  the  narrow  winding  stairway,  now  in  a 
very  rickety  condition. 

"  Over  the  pulpit  is  a  quaint  sounding-board,  and  at  the  foot  of 
the  winding-stair  is  the  old-time  clerk's  desk.  These,  and  also  the 
communion-taljle,  pews  and  massive  door.s,  are  of  solid  black- 
walnut,  carved  by  hand.  The  pews  are  square,  with  backs  so  high 
that  while  sitting  or  kneeling  their  occupants  are  entirely  hidden, 
.Small  chance  there  of  stealing  a  glance  at  pretty  neighbors  across 
the  way,  for  as  old  Uncle  Tom  remarked,  with  a  chuckle,  '  There 
warn't  notliing  to  do  but  jest  look  at  the  preacher  or  take  a  nap.' 
This  preacher,  it  may  be  mentioned,  received  for  salary  16,000 
pounds  of  tobacco  a  year,  as  was  the  custom  in  early  Virginia. 
To  raise  this,  it  being  a  State  church,  the  vestry  assessed  each 
man  in  tlie  county  a  certain  amount  of  tobacco,  which  he  was 
compelled  by  law  to  pay,  whether  he  attended  the  church  or  not. 

"  One  of  the  pews  was  dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  county  magis- 
trate, justice  of  the  peace  and  sheriff,  who  filed  solemnly  in  of  a 
.Sunday  with  all  the  dignity  befitting  the  ujjholders  of  the  law. 
Opposite  and  facing  the  pulpit  is  the  largest  pew  in  the  church, 
whose  size  ecpials  that  of  a  ball-room.  It  has  seats  around  all  four 
sides.  Its  backs  are  nearly  five  feet  high,  and  were  formerly  sur- 
mounted by  brass  rods,  which  held  thick  damask  curtains,  so  that 
^  even   when    standing 

^  those    inside    could 

neither  see  nor  be  seen. 
"  This  pew,  our  guide 
informed  us,  belonged 
to  Robert  Carter 
(which  he  pronounced 
'  Ky-arter,'  with  that 
delightful  inimitable 
Mrginian  accent),  who 
was  commonly  called 
'  King,'  on  account  of 
his  great  wealth  and 
social  importance.  He 
owned  300,000  acres 
of  land  and  3,000  ne- 
groes, and  is  one  of  the 
best-known  characters 
of  early  days.  He 
was  treasurer  of  the 
colony  for  many  years. 
Governor,  speaker  of 
the  House  of  Bur- 
gesses and  president  of 
the  Council  in  1726, 
'■He.  it  seems,  was  the  builder  of  the  church.  In  the  vestry- 
book  his  name  comes  before  even  that  of  the  minister.  The  whole 
north  side  of  the  building  was  given  up  'for  all  time  to  come'  to 
the  use  of  his  servants  and  dependents,  and  none  of  the  coniTega- 
tion  ever  thought  of  entering  the  church  until  the  Carter  coach 
had  arrived,  and  'King'  Carter  and  his  family  had  taken  their 
places.  The  aisles  are  formed  of  massive  pieces  of  freestone,  and 
are  as  solid  and  smooth  to-day  as  when  they  were  first  laid,  nearly 
two  hundred  years  ago.  The  original  communion-service  is  pre- 
served in  good  condition.  It  is  of  silver,  and  was  brought  over 
from  England. 

"  Under  the  pulpit  is  placed  for  safe  keeping  a  relic  of  unusual 
interest  in  the  shape  of  an  old  cedar  dial-post,  which  formerly 
stood  outside  the  door.  On  it  is  still  legible  the  name  of  John 
Carter  and  the  date  of  i  702.  This  post  was  one  of  the  relics  of 
the  older  church,  which  had  been  built  by  John  Carter,  father 
of  the  '  King.'  One  of  the  tomi^s  which  were  moved  from  the 
older  church  is  in  memory  of  this  John  Carter  and  his  wives,  of 
whom  there  seems  to  have  been  a  goodly  number.  The  epitaph 
mentions  no  less  than  the  appalling  sum  of  five,  who,  it  adds,  '  were 
all  his  wives  successively  and  died  before  him.'  This  tomb  bears 
the  date  1669.  In  the  centre  of  the  building  is  a  flat  let  into  the 
stone  floor  just  at  the  cro.ssing  of  the  ai.sles.  This,  legend  says, 
was  placed  there  in  memory  of  a  plasterer,  who  fell  while  working 
on  the  lofty  dome  and  was  killed  on  the  spot. 

"  Outside  is  the  little  gravevard  which   all  old  churches  have. 


VIRGINIA    CHURCHES. 


25 


"This  was  doubtless  the  same,"  says  Meade,  "in  which 
Governor  Yeardley,  with  the  Councillors  and  Burgesses, 
held  their  legislative  session  in  1619  ;  and,  as  we  read  of  no 
other  church  being  built  between  that  time  and  1676,  when 
the  town  and  church  were  burned  down  by  Bacon,  it  is  most 
probable  that  this  was  the  building.  In  opposition  to  the 
theory  that  the  present  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  church  which 
was  burned  in  the  rebellion,  is  the  fact  that  the  dimensions 
of  the  church  which  Smith  built  and  Lord  De  La  War  re- 
paired  were   dififerent   from  the   one    whose  ruins  are    now 


with  here  and  there  the  gleam  of  a  marble  slab  or  headstone  show- 
ing through  the  clinging  masses  of  iv)'  and  periwinkle  which  cover 
it.  '  King  '  Carter's  tomb,  originally  very  massive  and  handsome, 
with  the  Carter  coat-of-arms  cut  upon  it,  is  now  broken  and  de- 
faced, and  lies  in  fragments.  Much  of  it  has  been  carried  off  by 
relic  hunters.  Several  years  ago  a  gang  of  men,  believing  the 
tradition  that  'King'  Carter  had  been  buried  with  many  of  his 
diamonds  and  other  jewels  upon  him,  broke  an  entire  side  off 
the  massive  tomb  and  dug  up  the  coffin.  This  act  aroused 
the  people  of  the  neighborhood  to  such  an  extent  that  had  the 
thieves  been  caught,  there  is  small  doubt  but  that  they  would  have 
been  put  forthwith  into  •  King'  Carter's  place.  Yox  many  years 
services  were  held  in  the  church  only  once  a  year,  but  of  late  even 
this  has  been  discontinued,  and  the  old  building  would  have  been 


seen.  The  dimensions  of  the  former  were  twenty-four  by 
si.xty ;  those  of  the  latter  twenty-eight  by  fifty-si.x.  Other 
circumstances  there  are  which  render  it  almost  certain  that 
another  church  had  been  built  since  the  destruction  of  the 
one  by  Bacon.  Not  only  was  there  a  goodly  number  of 
families  residing  in  the  place  for  some  time  after  this,  but 
the  Court-house  and  House  of  Burgesses  were  there  until 
the  removal  of  the  seat  of  government  to  Williamsburg  after 
the  year  1705.  Although  the  governors  may  have  lived  at 
Green  Spring,  yet  some  of  the  officers  of  the  Government 


thus  on  that  statement :  "  Where  gambling,  racing,  and  even  the 
low  practice  of  cock-fighting  were  encouraged,  there  were  the  lost 
estates,  the  ruined,  scattered  families;  there  were  the  blasted 
hopes  of  parents,  the  idle,  intemperate  sons  and  the  sacrificed 
daughters."  Another  clergyman  of  the  day,  writing  to  the  Bishop 
of  London  about  this  county,  says :  "  The  great  cause  of  all  which 
I  humbly  conceive  to  bj  in  the  clergy,  the  sober  part  being  sloth- 
ful and  negligent,  and  others  so  debauched  that  tht-y  are  the  fore- 
most and  most  bent  on  all  manner  of  vices.  Drunkenness  is  the 
common  vice."  Yet  it  was  in  this  parish  and  only  four  miles  from 
this  church  tliat  Mrs.  Martha  Custis  had  her  home  in  the  "White 
House"  —  whence,  legend  has  it,  the  name  of  the  present  presi- 
dential mansion  at  Washington  —  and,  as  some  say.  it  was  in  this 
very  church  that  she  was  wedded  to  Colonel   Washington,  by  the 


Old  Si.   Feter'.s  Cluirch  [tliird  in   age    in  \'iryinia],   New  Kent  Cn.,  Va.     [I)ate,  1703  \ 


left  to   the   mercy  of  the   elements  but  for   the  interest  recently 
awakened  in  it." 


St.  Pf.ti:ii"s  Church,  Nkw  Kknt  Co.,  \'a.  —  St.  Peter's 
Church  was  built  in  i  703  and  was  paid  for  by  the  sale  of  forty-si.x 
thousand  hundred-weight  of  tobacco,  but  probably  even  this 
amount  of  potential  smoke  did  not  cover  the  cost  of  the  steeple, 
which  was  not  built  till  twelve  years  later.  ISislmp  Meade  takes 
pains  to  make  his  readers  understand  that  New  Kent  County  was 
a  very  sink  of  inifpiity  and  that  the  clergymen  tlicmselves  were 
leaders  in  all  debauching  excesses.  One  of  the  clergvmen  of  the 
time  writes  that  cards,  racing,  dancing  and  cock-fighting  were 
prevalent  in  this  parisli,  and  the  good  ISishop  on  his  part  moralizes 


Rev.  Mr.  Mossom,  who,  while  he  may  have  been  an  improvement 
on  otlier  incumbents  of  the  parish,  was,  none  tlie  less,  a  peculiar 
individual,  and  amongst  other  eccentricities  once  assailed  his  ])ari.sh 
clerk  from  the  pulpit  during  a  sermon.  The  clerk,  who  seems  to 
have  had  a  due  respect  for  the  proprieties  which  day  and  place 
imposed  on  him,  evened  the  score  by  giving  out  at  the  end  of  the 
.sermon  the  psalm  in  which  occur  these  lines:  — 

"  With  restless  and  iMigoverned  rage. 

Why  del  the  heathen  storm  ? 

Wliy  i:i  sncli  ra^li  attempts  engage 

As  they  can  ne'er  perfoirn?" 

Other    accounts   have   it   that  Washington's   marriage  was  cele- 
brated in  Old  I'ohick  Cliiirch.  near  .MoiDil  V'enion.   --  V.\i. 


26 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


belonging  to  the  port  and  legislature  were  there;  and  it  is 
not  to  be  supposed  that  they  would  live  for  thirty  years 
without  a  church.' 

Our  Reverend  author  goes  on  to  cite  the  circumstance  of 
Governor  Andros  presenting  communion-plate  to  the  James- 
town Church  in  1694,  that  a  silver  font  was  given  to  it  by 
the  Amblers,  which  is  still  in  evidence,  and  that  no  marks 
of  fire  are  discoverable  about  the  ruins,  and  he  finally  con- 
cludes "that  the  ruins  which  we  now  behold  are  those  of  a 
church  put  up  since  the  rebellion  of  Bacon  in  1676."  As 
one  sees  the  old  tower  standing,  dismantled,  but  beautiful, 
among  the  ancient,  stately  trees,  memory  almost  uncon- 
sciously tries  to  rehabilitate  the  times  and  the  men  who  have 
made  tlie  place  famous  in  the  world's  history.  Foremost  of 
them  all  stands  forth  the  grand  plebeian  name  of  John  Smith, 


\  1  •  ,1. 


Werowocomoco.  The  stone  of  which  the  chimney  is  built 
appears  to  be  a  shell  rock.  There  is  a  great  fireplace,  eight 
feet  wide,  four  feet  deep  and  six  feet  high.  Before  many 
years  the  rapid  encroachments  of  the  river  will  have  under- 
mined the  ruined  tower,  and  the  last  relic  of  Jamestown  will 
sleep  beneath  Powhatan's  turbid  flood. 


r-..,^ 


carter's  grove. 
.At  the  end  of  a  wearisome  drive  of  about  seven  miles 
south-eastward  from  Williamsburg,  over  a  road  which 
stretches  through  a  flat  and  dreary  succession  of  corn  fields, 
peanut  patches  and  pine  woods,  the  traveller,  now  nearing 
the  north  bank  of  the  James  River,  will  see  afar  ofl^  across 


«^--.K.. 


Carter's   Grove. 


the  chief  actor  in  the  settlement  of  Virginia.  There  is 
hardly  in  all  history  a  figure  more  picturesque  than  that  of 
this  indomitable  man.  His  life  was  a  romance,  and  full  of 
marvel.  Dying  quietly  in  London,  in  1631,  he  sleeps  in  St. 
Sepulchre's,  where  a  stone  bearing  his  arms,  his  three 
Turk's  heads,  and  his  motto,  "  Vincerc  est  vii^ere"  is  to  be 
seen  before  the  communion-table.  A  tablet  to  his  memory, 
engraved  with  a  sonorous  epitaph,  beginning  : 

"  Here  lies  one  conquered  tliat  h.itli  conquered  kings, 
Subdued  large  territories,  and  done  things 
Wiiich,  to  the  world,  impossible  would  seem," 

was  destroyed  in  the  great  fire  of  London,  in  1666. 

About  the  only  memorial  of  Captain  Smith,  and  at  the 
same  time  the  only  specimen  of  the  architectural  achieve- 
ments of  the  first  settlers  to  be  found  in  Vir<;inia,  is  the 
chimney  of   the   log-house  built  by  Smith  for  Powhatan   at 


the  level  fields  an  imposing  cluster  of  buildings  standing  i  a 
copse  of  tall,  spiring  trees.  Leaving  the  road  and  winding 
tortuously  across  the  plantation,  he  drives  beneath  the 
arching  boughs  of  a  short  avenue  of  old  locusts,  and,  emer- 
ging upon  a  circular  lawn  of  somewhat  unkempt  appearance, 
sees  before  him  the  stately  pile  of  Carter  Burwell's  ancient 
manor-house  of  Carter's  Grove.  There  is  a  fine  air  of  mossy 
age  on  this,  the  north  side  of  the  great  house,  but  one's  first 
glance  at  the  facade  reveals  the  disappointing  fact  that  a 
very  modern  and  wholly  incongruous  veranda  covers  a  third 
of  the  first  story  —  a  feature  sadly  out  of  style  and  asstheti- 
cally  deplorable  ;  comfortable,  no  doubt,  but  ugly.  The  ex- 
terior is  simple,  square,  massive;  the  openings,  symmetrically 
distributed,  have  a  rather  high  and  narrow  look.  The  house 
stands  well  up  out  of  the  ground,  and  above  the  cellar  there 
are  two  stories  crowned  by  a  high,  unbroken  slate  roof 
sloped  from  the  ends  of  the  house,  so  that  the  hips  meet  in 


CARTER'S   GROVE. 


27 


the  ridge  about  one-third  of  the  distance  from  either  end  of 
the  house.  'J"wo  square  cliimney-stacks  rear  their  bulky 
shafts  high  above  the  ridge-pole,  ending  in  a  simple,  though 
very  efTective,  topping-out.  'J  he  lines  of  the  roof  are  bold 
and  pleasing;  near  the  eaves  they  curve  outward  in  a  grace- 
ful sweep.  The  cornice  is  of  wood,  and  shows  a  row  of 
dentils  with  a  few  simple  mouldings  under  the  ralher  broad 
soffit  of  the  eaves.  The  solid-looking  walls  are  laid-up  of 
small,  dark,  English  brick  in  Flemish  bond,  and  they  have 
a  rich,  deep-red  color.  The  brick,  iron,  carved  and  panelled 
woodwork,  sashes,  hardware,  oak  flooring,  and,  in  fact 
nearly  all  the  materials,  were  imported  from  England. 

The  house  was  built  in  the  year  1737. 

The  walls  show  an  increased  thickness  on  the  outside 
below  the  level  of  the  first  floor,  and  at  the  height  of  the 
second  floor  there  is  a  brick  band,  slightly  projected,  several 
courses  in  width,  and  finished  with  a  moulded  course  at  the 
top  and  bottom,  running  all  around  the  house.  Flat  arches, 
with  voussoirs  one  brick  and  a  half  high,  cover  the  openings. 
Otherwise  the  brickwork  is  perfectly  plain. 

The  walls,  both  exterior  and  interior,  are  of  great  thick- 
ness, running  from  three  to  four  feet  throughout.  The  roof 
is  a  wonderful  assemblage  of  massive  timbers,  put  together 
with  that  intelligent  observance  of  the  principles  of  good 
carpentry  which  characterized  the  work  of  the  period. 

The  door  and  window  frames  and  the  sashes  are  very 
solidly  built ;  the  sash-bars  are  broad  and  strong,  and  filled 
with  glass  of  moderate  size.  All  exterior  woodwork  is 
painted  white. 

The  out-buildings*  flanking  the  great  house  are  low,  one- 
story,  brick  houses  with  high-pitclied  slate  roofs  pierced  on 
each  side  with  three  dormer  windows.  One  of  these  houses 
is  used  entirely  for  kitchen  and  scullery;  the  other  serves  as 
an  office  and  storehouse.  The  main  house  is  an  oblong, 
whose  outside  dimensions  are  about  fifty  by  eighty  feet. 

A  great  hall,  twenty-eight  feet  in  width,  occupies  the  cen- 
tre of  the  first  floor,  cutting  the  house  in  twain.  Out  of  this 
grand  manorial  entry-way  heavy  panelled  doors  of  generous 


*I\  this  domestic  custom  is  found  tlie  germ  of  whicli  the 
development  is  the  manorial  dwe!Iinj;-liouse  of  \'irginia,  and  to 
some  extent  the  ])Iantatioii  homes  of  other  .Southern  .States.  \'ery 
possibly,  it  was  the  iiuroiluctioii  of  negroes  as  house-servants  and 
the  natural  unwillingness  of  white 
men  to  have  colored  slaves  of 
unknown  hal)its  of  personal  clean- 
liness quartered  under  the  same 
roof  with  themselves  that  led  to 
their  heinj;  isolated  in  separate 
huts,  at  tirst  all  in  one  settle- 
ment —  the  '•  tpiarters  ''  fiar  excel- 
lence—  and  lat'.r  to  tlie  erection 
of  special  structures  for  the  use 
of  the  house  servants  some- 
what nearer  to  the  main  house, 
drawing  nearer  and  nearer  and, 
finallv,  becoming  attached  to  the 
hou.se  itself.  Whatever  the 
cause,  the  feature  that  distin- 
guishes the  arcliitectural  plan  of 
the  Virginia  manor-house  from 
the  house  of  the  .New  luigland 
gentlemen  of  the  same  time 
and  standing  is  the  presence  of 

the  kitchen  and  office  wings,  and  a  study  confined  entirelv  to 
this  feature  would  he  found  to  develo])  some  verv  interesting 
results.  .Sometimes,  as  at  Westovcr' and  Herkelev',  the  kitchen 
is  in  a  separate  building  entirelv  detached  from  tlie  main  house, 
balanced,  of  course,  bv  a  similar  structure  on  tlie  other  side, 
usuallv  the  office  in  which  the  landowner  transai  ted  the  busi- 
ness of  the  estate.  Sometimes,  as  at  .Mount  \'ernon  '.  tlie  kitchen, 
though  in   a  sejjarate   building,  is  connected  with  the   main  house 


width  give  upon  the  front  and  rear,  looking  toward  the  river 
and  the  road.  A  broad  arch,  spanning  about  twenty  feet, 
bisects  the  hall.  Starting  under  this  arch,  the  grand  stair- 
way sweeps  up  in  three  easy  runs  to  the  floor  above.  With 
its  low  risers,  broad  treads  and  carved  balusters  of  ina- 
hogany,  it  has  a  very  sumptuous  appearance.  The  floors  of 
the  landings  are  inlaid  with  a  hamlsome  parquetry  of  light 
and  dark  woods.  There  is  a  broader  step  at  the  foot,  over 
the  rounded  end  of  which  the  rail  swings  out  in  a  spiral 
whirl,  and  ends  over  a  delicate,  twisted  newel.  The  twisted 
post  is  repeated  at  the  turns  and  occurs  upon  the  landing 
above.  The  rail  is  nicely  worked  into  ramps  of  easy  curve. 
The  balusters  are  set  three  to  the  tread.  A  wainscot  in  long 
panels  of  mahogany  covers  the  wall  side,  and  has  ramps 
following  the  curve  of  the  slair-rail,  and  twisted  half-posts 
set  ojiposite  those  at  the  turns.  The  last  panels  in  the 
wainscot,  next  the  landings,  are  made  to  follow  theup-curve 
of  the  rail.  The  tone  of  the  mahogany  is  very  dark  and 
rich,  and  the  effect  of  the  whole  stairway  is  quite  splendid. 
The  downward  ramp  in  the  rail  as  it  turns  across  the  stair- 
well on  the  upper  landing  is  well  worth  noting.  The  scheme 
is  useful,  since  it  warns  one  of  the  approach  to  the  head  of 
the  stairs,  as  well  as  being  pretty  in  effect.  Several  ugly 
gashes  in  the  rail  on  the  first  flight  are  said  to  have  been 
made  by  the  sabres  of  Tarleton's  dragoons,  who,  while 
bivouacked  here  during  the  Revolutionary  War,  enjoyed  the 
quiet  diversion  of  riding  their  chargers  upstairs  and  hacking 
away  at  the  hand-rail  as  they  rode. 

From  the  landing  on  the  second  floor  doors  open  on  either 
hand  into  bedrooms.  Under  a  round  arch,  which  pierces  a 
partition  carried  on  the  great  arch  below,  one  passes  into 
a  large  ante-room  or  corridor  lighted  by  two  windows  looking 
out  upon  the  terraces  and  the  river. 

Froin  this  lobby  doors  open  into  the  principal  bedrooms. 
The  woodwork  about  the  smaller  arch  is  similar  in  treatment 
to  that  of  the  larger  span  on  the  first  floor.  Looking 
through  it  toward  the  head  of  the  stairs,  one  gets  a  very 
pleasing  picture.     The  walls  of  the  lower  hall  are  wainscoted 


«in 


^.^^^^T^^^^^r^ 


,ower  P.randon. 


by  an  open  or  colonnaded  passage-way.     Then  this  passage  way 
is  enclosed  fully   and  becomes   the  link  that  permanently  unites 
the  kitchen  and  office  to  the  main  house,  as  at  Woodlawn*.  near 
Mount    Vernon.      At    thf   same   time    another  cau.se.   the    neces- 
sity of  providing  slielter  for  the 
accidental  or  the  invited  traveller, 
brought  an  increase  in  size  and 
dignity  to  these  wing  pavilions: 
tlie  cliance  wayfarer  of  unknown 
antecedents    could    li  a  r  d  1  y    be 
<|uartered  in  the  main  liouse,  and 
the  baclielor  guests  relished  the 
greater  freedom  of  being  al;le  to 
come    and    go    unwatched.    and 
because  of  these  things  a  second 
story    was    soon    added    to    the 
ofiice  wing  and  balance  was  ])re- 
served   by   building   sleeping- 
rooms  over  the  kitclien,  so  that 
the  house-servants  no  longer  had 
to  retire  to  the  general  quarters 
at  night.     In  this  way  the  typical 
architectural    plan    of    tlie    \'ir- 
ginia  house.  like  Lower  Brandon, 
was  evolved.       From   this  point, 
tlirough   adopting  the  | — |  plan  or  the   |        |       I  plan,  by  making 
the  wing  portions  one   story  or  two,  by  building  of  brick  or  of 
wood,  the  architect  of  the  time  succeeded  in  producing  a  great 
variety   of   structures   of   most   surprising   architectural    interest. 
The  mansions  of   .-\nnapolis.  the   I'aca' house,  the  l!rice°  liouse, 
the   Harwood'  house,  show  that  this  general  scheme  was  as  well 
adapted  to  town  u.se  as  it  was  to  the  larger  county  estates.  —  Ki). 


'HfilJ 


'  See  I'iiRe  -ti. 


'  I'hue  XX,  I'iiri  VI. 


*-^Il  was  intended  to  jjiiblish  illiisiralioiis  ot    these  buildinys  in  tins  I'.irt,  but  they 
liavL'  Iteen  driven  f)VLM-  to  tlie  followinK  '"i"-*-  ~  ■!■•"■ 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


from  floor  to  ceiling.  Above  the  base  is  a  plain  board  dado 
crowned  with  a  narrow  cornice,  the  upper  member  of  which 
is  quite  ornate,  the  whole  being  about  three  feet  high.  From 
dado  to  frieze  the  wall  is  covered  with  a  single  large  panel, 
raised  and  bevelled.     The  frieze  contains  two  bronze  mem- 


Lower  Brandon.  —  Of  all  the  seats  on  the  James,  Lower 
lirandon,  vis-a-vis  to  Westover,  is  the  most  delicious  picture  of 
Old  \'irginia.  Every  nook  and  corner  of  the  spreading  mansion 
breathes  of  dead  belles  and  beaux,  of  minuets  and  roses  of  a  hun- 
dred leaves.  Inside,  the  walls  are  lined  with  one  of  the  most  famous 
collections  of  portraits  in  America.  English  lords  and  ladies,  poets 
and  musicians,  all  friends  of  Colonel  Byrd,  of  Westover,  hang  be- 
side the  family  portraits.  It  may  be  well  to  say  here  that  a  liyrd 
married  a  Harrison  and,  thereby,  Byrd  silver  and  pictures  crossed 
the  river  from  Westover  to  Brandon.  The  small  panes  of  the  win- 
dows are  "written  o"er "'  with  famous  names.  From  the  vast  hall 
we  pass  to  drawing-room  and  dining-room,  and  through  long  corri- 
dors to  the  large  wings  which  contain  the  prim,  old-fashioned  bed- 
rooms. The  late  owner  of  Brandon,  Mrs.  George  Harrison, 
formerly  a  Miss  Ritchie,  of  Baltimore,  was  one  of  the  most  notable 


bers  swelled  out  into  a  curved  projection,  and  separated  by 
narrow  horizontal  mouldings.  The  cornice  is  made  up  of  a 
number  of  members,  among  them  a  bracketed  dentil  band 
surmounted  by  a  strongly-projecting  corona.  Three  large 
panels   sheathe  the  wall   above   the  stairs,  diminishing   in 


tervention  was  procured  by  his  medical  adviser,  whose  wife  was 
the  sister  of  the  widowed  owner  of  the  estate  at  that  time. 

L'nquestionably,  there  was  wanton  and  irreparable  damage 
done  during  the  war  by  Federal  troops,  but  that  much  of  it  need 
not  have  happened  is  proved  by  the  following  extract  from  the 
New  York  Ki'ening  Post  for  April  7,  1900,  wherein  "  A  Recon- 
structed Matron"  describes  an  incident  of  Sherman's  passage 
through  South  Carolina:  — 

"  One  morning  in  the  early  spring  of  1.S65  our  little  maid  rushed 
into  tlie  sitting-room  where  we  were  assembled,  exclaiming  that 
the  Yankees  were  coming  and  were  "  des  ten  mile  down  de  road,"' 
and  sure  enough,  while  we  were  at  dinner,  which  was  the  dignified 
term  bestowed  on  the  scrap  of  bacon,  boiled  with  mounds  of  peas 
and  rice,  which  constituted  our  principal  daily  meal,  bang,  bang 
was  heard  just  beside  our  windows,  and  glancing  out,  our  terrified 


Lower  Brandon. 


women  of  her  day.  She  died  about  two  years  ago,  nearing  the 
century  mark.  Everybody  called  her  "Old  Miss  "and  her  influ- 
ence was  like  the  breath  of  violets,  far-reaching  and  insinuating. 
Brandon  has  now  passed  to  her  grandchildren.  —  S.  A''.  R. 

It  is  not  improbable  that  the  present  front  and  rear  porticos  as 
well  as  the  bay-window  in  the  upper  story  are  the  handiwork  of 
some  post-bellum  carpenter,  for  Brandon  was  visited  by  Federal 
troops  in  January,  1864,  who  not  only  burned  the  out-buildings 
and  negro  ciuarters,  and  destroyed  much  corn,  hav  and  bacon,  but 
looted  the  house  and  practically  wrecked  it,  sniasliing  all  the  win- 
dows and  tearing  out  some  of  the  interior  woodwork  to  feed  their 
camp-fires.  The  southeast  wing,  dating  from  1712,  is  the  oldest 
portion  of  the  house,  which  measures  210  feet  in  total  length  :  the 
balancing  wing  on  the  southwest  follows  in  point  of  age,  while 
the  central  or  present  main  house  is  said  to  be  in  part  due  to  the 
suggestion  of  Thomas  Jefferson  on  his  return  from  I'aris,  his 
interest  in  the  plan  being  due  to  the  fact  that  when  a  student  at 
William  and  Mary  his  chum  was  Benjamin  Harrison,  son  of  the 
owner  of  the  estate,  Col.  Nathaniel  Harrison.  If  one  of  our  I'resi- 
dents  had  a  hand  in  the  designing  of  ISrandon,  another  had  a  hand 
in  its  preservation,  since  it  was  bv  Lincoln's  personal  order  that 
the  Federal  troojjs  were  not  allowed  to  revisit  Brandon,  as  they 
threatened,  and  complete  the  work  of  destruction.     Lincoln's  in- 


eves  beheld  men  in  blue  and  grav,  pursuers  and  pursued,  galloping 
furiouslv  down  the  road,  discharging  pistols  as  thev  went.  War  had 
come  to  us  individually  at  last,  and  the  excitement  we  had  craved 
proved  to  be  anything  but  tlie  agreeal^le  sensation  of  our  anticipation. 

"  A  prodigious  hiding  and  burying  of  valuables  now  took  place; 
the  servants  seized  upon  silver  cups,  pitchers,  waiters,  etc.,  and  rush- 
ing into  the  garden,  sowed  them  broadcast  among  the  potato-beds, 
which  precaution  eventuallv  proved  cjuite  unneces.sar\-,  as  we  quickly 
obtained  a  guard,  who  protected  our  property  completely.  .  .  . 

"  The  discipline  of  the  troops  must  have  been  complete,  for  our 
guard,  a  little  whipper-snapper  of  seventeen  or  eighteen  yeans, 
while  lying  on  the  grass  before  our  door  would  merely  rise  on  his 
elbow,  turning  his  juvenile  countenance  on  the  parties  of  ma- 
rauders who,  from  time  to  time,  would  gallop  up  on  evil  deeds 
intent,  and  off  they  would  go,  immediately  recognizing  his  au- 
thority. Many  of  our  neighl)ors,  not  having  secured  a  guard, 
fared  very  badlv  at  the  hands  of  our  visitors,  who,  however, 
remained  onlv  two  day.s,  and  then  carried  their  undesirable 
presence  elsewhere.  Oh,  how  much  we  all  had  now  to  hear 
and  to  tell !  Such  experiences  of  outrage  and  robbery  as  our 
friends  had  to  relate  made  us  almost  ashamed  of  our  good  fort- 
une, and  caused  us  to  feel  that  our  escape  from  such  tribulations 
must  have  been  through  some  fault  or  lack  of  patriotism  on  our 
part."  —  I'll). 


CARTER'S   GROVE. 


29 


height  with  the  Hne  of  llie  ascent,  and  over  these  the  cornice 
is  returned.  Near  the  top  of  the  first  fliyht  the  upper 
paneUing  stops  abruptly,  all  above  showing  the  bare,  plastered 
wall. 

On  either  side  of  the  arch  are  broad,  fluted  pilasters  pro- 
jecting from  the  wall,  standing  on  bases  of  the  height  of  the 
dado,  and  crowned  by  shallow,  composite  capitals  richly 
carved.  Above  these  the  entablature  is  brought  out  with 
proper  projection  and  returned  at  the  ends. 

Triangular  panels  occupy  the  spandrels  of  the  arch  and 
the  side  of  stairway.  The  stars  in  these  panels  and  on  the 
key  of  the  arch  are  from  the  frieze  of  another  room.  The 
jambs  and  soffits  of  all  the  doorways,  and  the  soffit  of  the 
stairs,  are  handsomely  panelled.  'i"he  architraves  are  not 
especially  noticeable. 

An  almost  incredible  misfortune  has  in  recent  degenerate 
times  befallen  the  beautiful  woodwork  of  this  great  hall : 
dado  and  panelled  wainscot,  swelling  frieze  and  dentilled 
cornice,  fluted  pilaster  and  sculptured  capital,  panelled  arch 
and  noble  enablature,  all  have  been  painted  by  some  vandal 
hand  —  and  I  hasten  to  absolve  the  present  proprietor,  who 
is  guiltless  of  the  crime  —  in  shrieking  tones  of  red,  vvliite, 
blue,  and  —  mirabile  dUtu — green!  Absolute  justice  to  the 
artist  compels  me  to  add  that  he  has  used  his  green  rather 
sparingly,  but  what  there  is  of  it  is  most  relentlessly  green. 
And  yet,  under  all  this  coarseness,  while  it  is  almost  impos- 
sible to  get  the  proper  value  of  certain  members  to  which 
the  harsh  coloring  has  given  exaggerated  weight,  one  can 
still  see  the  dignity  of  the  whole  scheme  of  decoration. 

The  two  floors  are  very  similar  in  plan,  there  being  two 
large  rooms,  almost  square,  on  either  side  of  the  great  hall, 
which  occupies  the  middle  third  of  the  whole  floor-space. 


Elsing  Greex. —  If  Klsing  Green  is  one  of  tliose  two  "richly 
furnished  mansions "  in  wliich  Carter  lirixxton,  later  a  signer  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  lived  "  in  great  splendor  "  shortlv 
after  his  second  marriajje  in  \']()\.  or  therealiouts,  tlie  building 
dates  back,  at  least,  to  near  the  middle  of  tlie  eisliteenth  century. 
It  would  be  gratifying  to  be  able  to  present  a  more  satisfactory 


The  two  chimneys  carried  up  on  the  middle  transverse 
partitions  give  a  fireplace  of  generous  size  to  each  room. 
Those  in  the  library  and  dining-room  are  of  very  liberal 
dimensions.  There  is,  in  the  parlor,  a  mantel  in  Siena 
marble  of  very  good  design  in  the  refined  style  of  the  period. 
The  wainscot  of  the  room,  which  is  called  the  library  for 
lack  of  other  distinguishing  name,  is  in  large  panels  of  pine, 
from  which  the  paint  has  been  scraped  oil'.  The  color  is 
very  rich  and  dark,  and  the  room  altogether  very  handsome. 
I  should  estimate  the  iieight  of  the  first-story  rooms  at  about 
twelve  feet,  or  periiaps  fourteen,  and,  with  their  tall  panel- 
lings, they  are  impressive.  The  window-frames  are  set  well 
out,  thus  leaving  a  deep  reveal  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall 
inside,  where  cosy  window-seats  have  been  built  in. 

The  floors  are  all  of  rift  oak,  from  four  to  six  inches  wide, 
and  as  sound  as  the  day  they  were  laid,  a  carpenter  would 
say.  The  doors  are  in  slightly  raised,  bevelled  and  moulded 
panels,  solidly  framed  and  very  thick.  My  impression  is 
that  there  are  solid  panelled  inside  blinds  to  all  windows. 

In  its  chief  feature,  the  entry-hall,  this  handsome  colonial 
residence  adheres  to  the  model  of  the  English  manor- 
houses  of  the  time,  in  which  the  great  baronial  hall  of  feudal 
days  still  survived. 

It  was  here  that  the  family  received  its  guests,  the  ladies 
pouring  tea  for  the  beaux  who  came  riding,  en  grande  teniie,  to 
pay  their  court  in  the  long  afternoons  of  the  beautiful  Vir- 
ginia summers.  Within  these  thick  walls  it  was  cool  always, 
and  through  the  wide  doors  and  windows,  opening  upon 
front  and  rear,  the  breezes  from  off  the  river  came  in  un- 
checked. As  the  day  wore  on  and  the  fiery  sun  was  gone, 
the  company  sought  the  terraces  and  sauntered  in  the  long 
twilight,   looking   down   upon   the   purpling   bosom   of   the 


only  a  man  of  great  wealth,  which  before  his  death  was,  owing  to 
losses  during  the  war  and  unfortunate  mercantile  ventures,  practi- 
cally dissipated,  but  was  throughout  his  life  active  in  political 
affairs,  holding  many  offices  of  trust.  Although  conservative  by 
temperament  he  supported  Patrick  Henry's  Stamp  Act  resolutions 
in   1765,   and,   later,   in   April,    1775,   when   Henry,  alone   of  the 


Umise  cf  C.irter  liraxton,  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  liiclepciidence. 


illustration  of  the  building  than  is  afforded  by  the  accompanying 
photographic  view,  for  l)eside  tlie  flanking  buildings  for  house- 
servants  and  office  witli  narrow  dormers  serving  the  second  stories, 
the  plan  seems  to  be  unusual,  the  entrances  being  a|)pareiitly  placed 
on  the  axis  of  the  wings.  If  later,  cliance  enables  us  to  procure 
adequate  illustration  of  tliis  or  any  otlier  liuildiiig,  now  onlv  photo- 
graphically presented,  we  sliall  not  hesitate  to  present  them  in 
some  later  portion  of  tliis  publication.     Carter   Braxton  was  not 


leaders  of  the  militia,  refused  to  lay  down  his  arms  until  he  had 
despoiled  of  the  king's  property  enough  to  offset  the  value  of  the 
colony's  powder  seized  by  Lord  Dunniore,  he  had  enough  influ- 
ence with  Henry  to  keep  him  in  check  until  he  had  time  to  per- 
suade his  own  father-in-law,  the  receiver-general  of  the  royal 
customs,  to  pay  Henrv  the  value  of  the  stolen  ])owcIer  and  so  pre- 
vent tile  shedding  of  blood.  The  arrangement  of  ••  1  ■jsing  ( ireen  '' 
may  l)e  the  same  as  that  of  "  Tiickalnie  "  shown  011  |)age  32.  —  V.u. 


30 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


James.  The  veranda,  so  essential  a  feature  of  our  modern 
country  liouses,  was  not  in  vogue  in  the  English  prototypes 
of  these  colonial  manor-houses,  and  was,  therefore,  not  a 
part  of  the  construction  of  the  great  river  mansions,  except 
in  one  or  two  instances. 

As  the  days  grew  cold  great  woodfires  roared  on  the  ca- 
pacious hearths  of  the  principal  rooms;  there  was  none  in 
the  hall.  A  richly-dressed  throng  of  guests  wandered  at  will 
from  room  to  room  in  the  more  or  less  brilliant  illumination 
afforded  by  candles  in  sconces  on  the  panelled  walls. 
In  the  spacious  dining-room  the  great  oak  board  groaned 
beneath  the  weight  of  sumptuous  feasts,  and  on  the  buffet 
stood  the  mighty  punch-bowl  to  be  emptied  and  refilled 
again  and  again,  while  flanking  it,  were  decanters  filled  with 
wines  of  Spain,  of  Oporto,  and  the  blue  Canaries,  and  cob- 
webbed  bottles  of  old  Madeira  from  the  vaulted  cellars 
below.  On  small  tables  in  the  library  were  urns  of  coffee 
and  chocolate  at  which  the  ladies,  tres  decolletees,  in  rich 
brocades,  their  pretty  feet  encased  in  high-heeled  slippers  of 
red  satin,  their  heads  a  wonder  of  feathers  and  powder, 
patches  and  paste,  ministered  unto  the  wants  of  gay  cava- 
liers standing  about  with  their  cocked-hats  under  their  arms, 
and  resplendent  in  gold-laced  coats  of  costly  stuffs,  flowered 
waistcoats,  satin  knee-breeches,  diamond  buckles,  powdered 
hair  or  frizzled  wigs. 

Meanwhile,  in  the  small  house,  on  the  right  of  the  main 
building,  where  the  kitchen  was  established  —  for  in  colonial 
country  houses  of  the  better  class  the  cooking  was  usually 
done  under  a  separate  roof  —  was  a  throng  of  negro  domes- 
tics. The  cooks  crowded  around  the  great  fireplace  in  which 
the  cranes  swung  laden  with  pots  and  kettles,  and  tended  the 
spits  which  depended  by  hooks  from  the  cob-irons,  and  slowly 
turned  their  burden  of  venison,  wild-turkey,  quail,  or  the 
humbler  barn-yard  fowl,  to  the  glowing  coals  and  the  blaze 
of  great  logs  heaped  upon  the  fire-dogs.  The  younger 
negroes,  plying  in  a  steady  stream  between  the  houses, 
rushed  to  and  fro  with  tlie  innumerable  dishes  of  the  feast, 
and  all  hands  halted  now  and  then  to  refresh  themselves 
with  a  draught  of  home-made  persimmon  beer. 

This  was  the  seat  of  the  rich  and  hospitable  planter, 
Carter  Burwell,  who,  besides  being  of  distinguished  family 

Hanovkr  Court-house.  —  Like  many  other  buildings  of  the 
time,  this  little  structure  depends  for  its  architectural  interest  very 
largely  on  the  character  of  its  brickwork  and  this  seems  an  unusu- 
ally successful  example  of  the  employment  of  light  and  dark  brick. 
But  in  addition  to  this,  although 
it  is  so  simple  in  design,  it  was 
evidently  the  work  of  some  one 
who  knew  and  valued  the  virtues 
of  proportion  and  simplicity,  and 
delicacy  of  detail.  Here,  as 
usual,  architectural  merit  cannot 
vie  with  historical  interest  and 
this  building  will  always  be  known 
and  venerated  for  being  the  scene 
of  some  of  those  early  expres- 
sions of  Colonial  disaffection 
which  finally  led  to  the  War  of 
the  Revolution.  Also  it  was  in 
this  building,  in  1763,  that  Fat- 
rick  Henry  made  his  first  great 
speech  and  by  his  eloquence  car- 
ried the  case  against  the  clergy- 
men—  in  spite  of  the  abstract 
justice  of  their  cause —  in  what  is 
known  as  '■  tlie  parson's  contest," 
a  dis])ute  which  had  an  imjjort- 
ant  bearing  on  the  inauguration  of  the  Revolution.  The  salary  of 
the  cler<;ymen  in  the  colony  was  fixed  at  1 6,000  pounds  of  tobacco 
and  wlien  tobacco  sold  at  ordinary  rates  their  income  was  sufficient 
for  comfortable  existence,  liut  in  175.S,  owing  to  a  short  crop, 
the  price  advanced  to  60  shillings  and  the   House  of  Burgesses 


in  his  own  person,  was  very  highly  connected  on  the  side  of 
his  wife,  a  daughter  of  "  King  Carter,"  one  of  the  wealthiest 
and  most  noted  planters  in  the  colony.  They  and  their 
descendants  were  people  of  the  highest  fashion  in  ante- 
Revolutionary  times,  and  their  home  was  the  scene  of  many 
great  dinners  and  routs  and  balls  of  brilliant  splendor. 

ft  is  interesting  to  trace  the  wonderfully  rapid  evolution 
of  the  settler's  habitation  from  the  first  rude  shelter  of  bark 
and  boughs  up  to  the  luxury  and  refinement  of  the  princely 
residences  of  a  century  later.  The  men  of  the  first  com- 
panies lived  in  bark  huts  exactly  copied  after  the  wigwams 
of  the  Indians;  and,  indeed,  so  quickly  did  the  charm  of  the 
wild  untrammelled  life  of  the  wilderness  conquer  the  tradi- 
tions of  their  old-country  home  that  many  of  them  stuck 
to  the  wigwams  long  after  a  considerable  civilization  had 
developed  in  the  colony. 

Succeeding  these  came  the  house  of  logs,  pine-trunks  of 
medium  size  being  at  first  merely  cut  into  lengths,  notched 
at  the  ends  and  laid  up  round  ;  but  soon,  the  first  winters 
having  developed  an  unexpected  severity  of  clitpate,  they 
were  hewn  square  and  the  spaces  between  the  logs  carefully 
chinked-up  with  clay. 

The  primitive  and  unhealthful  dirt-floors  were  superseded 
by  a  pavement  of  puncheons  sawed  from  the  butts  of  logs, 
and  rude  chimneys  were  built  of  sticks  fastened  together  at 
the  angles  and  roughly  smeared  on  the  inside  with  clay  or 
plaster.  The  stack  was  carried  up  against  one  of  the  end 
walls  of  the  cabin  and  on  the  outside  —  just  as  they  are 
built  to  this  day  in  the  hovels  of  the  negroes  and  poor  whites 
throughout  the  South,  which  are,  in  fact,  hardly  an  improve- 
ment upon  the  rude  original  we  are  describing. 

The  splitting  out  of  rough  shingles  and  clapboards  from 
the  clear  butts  of  the  larger  timber  marked  an  important 
advance. 

Nails  were  very  scarce  and  many  houses  were  built  entirely 
without  the  use  of  iron,  thongs  of  rawhide  and  wooden  pe^s 
being  used  instead.  Timbers  were  laid  across  the  shingles 
to  prevent  them  from  being  lifted  by  the  wind.  Bricks  were 
made  in  Jamestown  a  very  few  years  after  the  first  landing, 
and  were  soon  in  general  use  for  the  lower-story  walls.  The 
oyster-shells,  found  in   great  heaps   upon   the  river  shores. 


Hanover  Court-house. 


ordained  that  all  obligations  payable  in  tobacco  should  be  paid  in 
money  at  a  valuation  of  two  pence  for  each  pound  of  tobacco  due. 
Although  this  law  was  limited  to  an  operation  of  ten  months  and 
was  of  universal  apphcation,  it  bore  with  particular  hardship  on 

the  clergy,  who,  as  their  entire 
income  was  derived  from  tobacco, 
could  not  support  a  loss  of  sixty- 
six  per  cent  of  their  salary.  Ac- 
cordingly, they  protested  'and  fi- 
nally appealed  to  the  crown,  their 
cause  being  supported  by  the 
Bishop  of  London.  The  King 
declared  the  law  unjust  and  or- 
dered its  repeal.  The  clergy  then 
prepared  a  test-case,  that  of  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Camm,  which  was  tried 
before  the  Governor  and  Coun- 
cil, and  by  a  single  vote  went 
against  the  reverend  claimant  of 
back  pav.  The  clergymen  who 
were  making  common  cause  then 
prepared  another  case,  that  of 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Maury,  a  man  of 
greater  personal  popularity,  and 
this  time  it  was  decided  that  the 
plaintiff  had  a  valid  claim.  But 
the  amount  of  damages  or  back  pay  had  yet  to  be  decided  and  the 
opponents  of  the  clergymen  placed  their  case  in  the  hands  of 
the  unknown  Patrick  Henry.  The  result  was  that  the  Rev. 
Mr.  ALaurv  received  one  penny  in  damages  and  Patrick  Henr}''s 
rejjutation  was  made.  —  Ed. 


CARTER'S   GROVE. 


31 


yielded  an  excellent  lime  when  well  burned,  and  a  concrete 
of  shells  and  lime  was  used  in  walls  which  are  still  to  be 
seen.  With  the  introduction  of  the  female  element  into  the 
community,  home-rearing  in  the  wilderness  went  forward 
with  greatly  renewed  energy,  and  from  this  time  a  steady 
improvement  in  the  style  and  importance  of  their  houses  is 
discernible. 

In  1619,  some  ninety  young  women  were  sent  out  from 
England  and  speedily  found  husbands  among  the  pioneers. 
In  162 1,  one  widow  and  eleven  maids  were  landed  in  James- 
stovvn,  all  of  whom  were  mated  without  loss  of  time,  their 
husbands  paying  120  pounds  of  tobacco  apiece  for  the  cost 
of  their  bringingout.  For  each  of  the  thirty-eight  women 
who  arrived  in  the  next  consignment,  150  pounds  of  tobacco 
were  given. 

Tobacco  was  now  the  great  staple  of  commerce  and  me- 
dium of  exchange  between  Virginia  and  the  motliercountry, 
and  as  its  cultivation  became  more  profitable  land  was 
rapidly  cleared,  the  colonists  began  to  give  up  the  old  com- 
munity system,  abandoned  Jamestown,  and,  establishing 
themselves  upon  broad  plantations,  entered  upon  an  entirely 
new  phase  of  colonial  life,  individual  families  living  now  in 
an  isolation  which  was  in  strong  contrast  to  the  old  order  of 
things,  and  much  better  calculated  to  call  forth  the  courage 
and  latent  energies  of  the  settlers. 

Gradually  the  habitation  of  the  planter  of  middling  estate 
grew  into  the  type  of  which  we  find  so  many  houses  in 
the  older  parts  of  the  colony,  plain,  comfortable,  one-story 
houses,  having  usually  a  curb-roof  pierced  with  dormers,  four 
square  rooms  arranged  about  a  hall  of  goodly  size,  and  a 
great  square  chimney-stack  rising  out  of  the  middle  of  the 
building. 

These  considerable  improvements  in  the  condition  of  the 
colonists  had  been  brought  about  mainly  by  the  firm  hand 
and  wise  head  of  Sir  Thomas  Dale,  who,  arriving  in  May, 
161 1,  as  "  High  Marshal  of  Virginia,"  had  at  once  set  about 
reforming  the  abuses  which  were  sapping  the  energies  and 
obstructing  the  progress  of  the  infant  colony.  One  of  his 
first  acts  of  government  was  to  do  away  with  the  old  com- 
munal system  under  whose  miserable  defects  the  settlements 
had,  until  his  arrival,  been  hopelessly  struggling.  Hereto- 
fore the  law  had  required  that  everything  should  be  brought 
to  the  '■  common  store,"  from  which  the  whole  community 
drew  its  subsistence,  every  one  sharing  in  the  results  of  the 
labor  of  the  entire  body.  The  consequence  was  that  as  no 
one  could  hope  to  profit  especially  by  the  fruits  of  his  own 
industry,  the  most  of  them  found  it  pleasanter  to  do  nothing 
at  all,  "  presuming  that,  however  the  harvest  prospered,  the 
general  store  must  maintain  them,"  and  so  they  passed  the 
time  agreeably  playing  at  bowls  by  the  roadside,  while  a  very 
few  of  the  more  diligent  planted  and  tilled  the  corn  which 
was  to  feed  them  all  through  the  long  dreary  winter.  When 
that  gave  out,  as  it  usually  did,  they  relied  upon  the  uncertain 
hope  of  cajoling  the  Indians  into  giving  them  more.  But 
the  iron  will  of  Dale  soon  made  an  end  of  all  this.  He  re- 
quired that  every  man  of  them  should  work  his  allotment 
of  three  acres  of  cleared  ground,  giving  to  the  public  granary 
two-and-one-half  barrels  of  corn,  and  disposing  of  the  rest  of 
his  crop  as  he  pleased.  Each  one  must  provide  himself  with 
a  home  of  his  own,  however  rude.  In  a  few  years,  when  he 
saw  that  this  new  order  was  bringing  forth  good  results,  the 
Governor  obtained  from  the  London  Company  a  grant  of 
fifty  acres  for  every  man  who  would  undertake  to  clear  and 
cultivate  that  amount,  paying  a  small  yearly  rental  to  the 
King  "at  the  feast  of  St.  .Michael  the  Archangel,"  or  he 
might  select  and  take  up  one  hundred  acres  on  the  payment 


of  twelve  pounds  or  so,  or,  were  he  fortunate  enough  to  earn 
the  gratitude  of  the  Company  by  some  important  achieve- 
ment, he  might  look  for  reward  in  the  shape  of  larger  grants 
to  the  extent  of  two  thousand  acres,  not  more. 

But  one  thing  more  was  wanted.  The  colonists  had  now 
made  homes  for  themselves.  They  wanted  wives  to  put  into 
them.  Sir  Edwin  Sandys,  President  of  the  London  Com- 
pany, set  about  supplying  the  want.  He  had  already  shipped 
over  twelve  hundred  men  to  Virginia,  and  King  James  had 
contributed  a  hundred  convicts,  the  latter  not  meeting  a  very 
cordial  welcome.  Sir  Edwin  now  got  together  ninety  maids 
of  fair  repute  and  sent  them  over  to  find  husbands.  It  was 
a  great  stroke.  On  the  arrival  of  the  ships  there  was  a  rush 
to  Jamestown  to  view  their  fair  freight,  and  there  were 
doubtless  some  curious  incidents  of  courtship,  novel  and 
rapid.  The  company  had  made  careful  selection  of  the  girls. 
There  were  only  two  black  sheep  in  the  flock,  and  these 
were  shortly  sent  home  again.  The  others  were  wooed  and 
married  without  much  loss  of  time.  The  company  had  di- 
rected that  "in  case  they  cannot  be  presently  married,  we 
desire  that  they  be  put  with  several  householders  that  have 
wives  until  they  can  be  supplied  with  husbands.  .  .  .  We 
desire  that  the  marriage  be  free,  according  to  nature,  and 
we  would  not  have  these  maids  deceived  and  married  to 
servants,  but  only  such  freemen  or  tenants  as  have  means  to 
maintain  them  .  .  .  not  enforcing  them  to  marry  against 
their  wills." 

So  were  complete  homes  founded  at  last  in  the  wilderness, 
and  with  houses  and  lands  of  their  own,  and  wives  and  chil- 
dren to  work  for,  the  Virginians  were  far  on  the  road  to 
permanent  prosperity.  The  "servants"  referred  to  in  the 
Company's  order  concerning  the  young  women  were  in- 
dentured persons  and  sometimes  convicts  :  the  first  black 
slaves  to  arrive  in  the  colony  were  brought  in  a  Dutch  ship 
which  sailed  up  the  James  River  in  1619,  and  sold  twenty 
Africans  to  the  tobacco-planters. 

Sir  Thomas  Dale,  having  in  five  years  accomplished  so 
much  for  the  betterment  of  the  colony,  went  back  to  Eng- 
land in  1616,  and  his  arrival  there  is  thus  chronicled:  "Sir 
Tliomas  Dale  has  arrived  from  Virginia,  and  brought  with 
him  some  ten  or  twelve  old  and  young  of  that  country,  among 
whom  is  Pocahontas,  daughter  of  Powhattan,  a  king  or  ca- 
cique of  that  country,  married  to  one  Rolfe,  an  Englishman. 
I  hear  not  of  any  other  riches  or  matter  of  worth,  but  only 
some  quantity  of  sassafras,  tobacco,  pitch,  tar  and  clapboard 
—  things  of  no  great  value,  unless  there  were  plenty  and 
nearer  hand.  All  I  can  hear  of  it  is,  that  the  country  is 
good  to  live  in,  if  it  were  stored  with  people,  and  might,  in 
time,  become  commodious.  But  there  is  no  present  profit 
to  be  expected." 

At  this  time  the  population  of  Virginia  was  reckoned  at 
three  hundred  and  fifty-one ;  thirty-eight  "  men  and  boys  " 
at  Henrico,  of  whom  twenty-two  were  farmers  ;  one  hundred 
and  nineteen  at  Bermuda  Nether  Hundred  ;  twenty-five  men 
at  West  and  Shirley  Hundred  ;  fifty  at  Jamestown  ;  the  rest 
at  Kiquatan,  Dale's  Gift,  and  elsewhere.  The  cultivation  of 
tobacco  was  begun  in  this  year. 

In  1617-18,  there  were  in  Virginia  about  four  hundred 
settlers.  Four  hundred  and  fifty  bushels  of  corn  came  to  the 
granaries,  and  the  property  of  the  colonists  in  cattle  was 
considerable.  Stringent  laws  for  the  government  of  the 
settlers  were  enforced.  Immigration  was  greatly  increased 
in  i6ig,  and  in  July,  1620,  the  population  had  reached  four 
thousand  persons,  and  settlements  had  extended  to  the  York 
River.  An  effort  was  being  made  to  teach  and  christianize 
the  Indians. 


32 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Sir  Francis  Wvat,  a  young  Irish  gentleman,  coming  out  as 
Governor  in  1621,  was  charged  to  see  that  the  Church  ot 
England  and  the  laws  of  England  were  respected  in  his 
province  ;  to  suppress  gambling  and  drunkenness  ;  to  punish 
pirates;  to  teach  the  '"savage  heathen";  to  regulate  the 
dress  of  the  colonists,  permiiting  only  councillors  and  heads 
of  hundreds  to  bedeck  them  in  gold  lace,  and  forbidding 
any  to  appear  in  silken  clothes  until  Virginia  should  grow 
the  silk ;  to  cultivate  corn  and  the  grape ;  to  regulate 
the  excessive  growing  of  tobacco,  not  allowing  indentured 
servants  to  forsake  their  trades  to  plant  it;  to  build  water- 
mills ;  to  make  pitch  and  tar;  to  explore  the  country  for 
precious  minerals;  to  take  a  census  of  the  colony  —  and 
much  more  tending  to  promote  the  general  welfare  of  the 
settlement. 

With  Wyat  came  George  Sandys,  Treasurer  of  Virginia, 
and  brother  of  Sir  Edwin  Sandys,  of  the  London  Company, 
who  was,  according  to  Pope  and  Dryden,  one  of  the  first 
versifiers  of  his  time,  an  Oxford  man,  and  a  great  traveller  in 
Europe  and  the  East. 

Eighty  Irish  immigrants  settled  at  Newport  News,  and 
three  thousand  five  hundred  settlers  in  all  came  out  during 
162  I  and  1622. 

The  colony  at  this  time  exported  yearly  twenty  thousand 
pounds  of  tobacco,  almost  the  entire  crop.  Before  the  end 
of  the  century  the  annual  shipment  of  tobacco  to  England 
amounted  to  fifteen  millions  of  pounds,  the  revenues  from 
which  aggregated  ;^ioo,ooo. 

At  noon  on  Friday,  the  22d  of  March,  1622,  the  Indians, 
in  several  bands,  fell  upon  the  James  River  settlements,  and 
in  a  few  hours  butchered  three  hundred  and  forty-nine  men, 
women  and  children.  The  paralyzing  effect  of  this  terrible 
massacre,  in  which  fell  about  one-twelfth  of  the  whole  popu- 
lation, was  long  felt  in  the  colony.  Among  its  immediate 
results  was  a  strong  reawakening  of  the  dread  and  hatred  of 
the  Indians  which  the  philanthropic  efforts  of  such  men  as 
George  Thorpe,  Deputy  of  the  College  land,  Sandys  and 
others  had  nearly  overcome.  Thorpe  himself  was  one  of  their 
first  victims,  being  slain  at  Berkeley  with  ten  other  persons. 
Opechancanough,  the  instigator  of  this  awful  treachery,  had 
been  living  in  a  fine  house  built  for  him  in  the  English  fashion 


'  VV'VAXOKE,  o\  THE  Jaaies  River.  —  The  accompanying  illus- 
tration is  introduced  here  largely  because  the  name  has  recently 
acquired  a  new  fame  in  the  pages  of  Miss  Johnston's  historical 
novel,  "  To  Hai<e  and  to  Hold,''  a  book  likely  to  retain  its  place  in 
literature  lonjrer  tlian  most  novels  and  so  make  Wyanoke  continu- 


K 

^ 

lit 

■''pJdS^^^^^^^^^^k  1 

^ 

j^ 

M        '"'^ 

pl  J  1 

m 

Wyanoke. 

ingly  familiar.  The  date  of  this  structure  and  its  historv  we  have 
not  souj;lit  to  know,  but  it  serves  as  well  as  another  to  show  that 
there  was  distinct  kinsliip  in  desi<;n  between  the  New  England 
and  \'ir<;inian  houses  of  the  period.  It  shows,  too,  that  not  all. 
nor    perliaps    most,  \'ira;inia    manor-houses   were   built   of    brick. 


^  .Sfe  page  33  and  IM.iles  ^  and  9,  I^.nt  \'I. 


by  'J'horpe  upon  the  College  lands.  "The  chief  was  so 
charmed  with  it,  especially  with  the  lock  and  key,  that  he 
locked  and  unlocked  the  door  a  hundred  times  a  day." 

King  James  seized  upon  the  pretext  of  the  massacre, 
when  news  of  these  dire  events  had  reached  England,  to 
institute  an  inquiry  into  the  affairs  of  the  Virginia  Company, 
which  finally  resulted  in  the  annulling  of  their  charter,  after 
a  prolonged  struggle,  in  1624. 

"  The  company  thus  dissolved  had  expended  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  pounds  in  establishing  this  Colony,  and 
had  transported  nine  thousand  settlers  without  the  aid  of 
governrnent.  The  number  of  stockholders  was  about  one 
thousand,  and  the  annual  value  of  exports  from  Virginia  was, 
at  the  period  of  the  dissolution  of  the  charter,  only  twenty 
thousand  pounds." 

Among  its  members  were  "  fifty  noblemen,  several  hundred 
knights,  and  many  gentlemen,  merchants  and  citizens." 

In  March,  1625,  died  King  James  the  First,  and  his  son, 
Charles  the  First,  succeeded  to  the  throne.  The  settlements 
on  the  James  River  had  now  reached  the  "  Falls,"  where  the 
advance-guard  of  pioneers  had  built  them  a  few  rough  cabins 
within  the  fortitied  enclosure  of  the  prescribed  stockade. 
Near  "Powhatan,"  a  few  miles  down  the  river,  15,000  acres 
of  land  had  been  laid  out  for  the  benefit  of  the  University  of 
Henrico,  and  a  few  settlers  were  living  there. 

At  Falling  Creek  were  the  ruins  of  the  furnace  and  other 
buildings  erected  by  Berkeley,  who  intended  to  engage  in 
the  smelting  of  lead  and  iron  here,  but  burnt  by  the  Indians 
in  the  late  uprising.  The  mine  from  which  he  is  said  to 
have  taken  valuable  ore  has  never  been  found.  Farther 
down,  upon  a  narrow  neck  of  land  encompassed  within  a 
horseshoe  bend  of  the  river,  at  "  Dutch  Gap,"  was  the  City 
of  Henricus,  fortified  behind  two  strong  palisades  stretching 
across  from  river  to  river.  The  town  stood  well  out  on  the 
peninsula  and  had  three  streets,  a  church  and  an  Indian 
College.  Along  the  river  below  were  Fort  Patience  and 
Mount  Malado,  and  still  farther  down  the  stream  were 
Bermuda  Hundred,  Flower  de  Hundred,  Wyanoke\  West 
and  Shirley  Hundred,  Berkeley,  where  Thorpe  was  killed, 
Westover  and  Martin's  Brandon. 

"This  group  of  cabins  on  the  banks  of  James  River,"  says 

though  the  exterior  clapboarding  is  not  a  proof  that,  as  often 
in  New  England,  the  outer  walls  were  not  filled-in  with  brick 
work  between  tlie  studs. 
A  variant  upon  this 
mixed  svstem  of  building 
is  shown  by  Tuckahoe,''  a 
house  whicli  reveals  an 
interesting  plan  but 
which  is  of  interest  here 
mainly  because  the  gable- 
ends  of  one  of  its  wings 
are  of  brickwork,  while 
the  balancing  gable-ends 
of  the  other  wing,  like  all 
other  parts  of  the  house, 
are  covered  with  clap- 
boards. This  difference 
makes  one  at  first  sus- 
pect that  the  wini;s  were 
i)uilt  at  different  times,  an 
interpretation  that  seems 
to  be  forbidden  by  the 
plan.  A  more  probable 
explanation  is  that  the 
bricks  were  imported, 
only  enough  coming  in 
the  early  cargoes  for  two 
gable  walls  and  ]jarts  of 
the  third  and  fourth  chim- 
nevs  in  the  second  wing, 
and  that  rather  tlian  delay  occupancy  of  the  building  the  original 
owner  decided  to  build  the  second  wing  whollv  of  wood.  —  Ed. 


CARTER'S   GROVE. 


33 


Cooke,  "was  the  advance-guard  of  civilization,  a  sentinel 
posted  on  the  look-out.  It  would  not  do  for  the  little  band 
of  English  to  relax  their  vigilance.  Human  wolves  were 
lurking  around  them,  ready  to  spring  upon  them  at  any 
moment,  and  life  was  a  hard  struggle  with  disease  and 
famine."  The  settlements  were  far  apart,  each  was  sur- 
rounded with  a  palisade,  and  in  the  year  immediately  suc- 
ceeding the  great  massacre  every  one  was  on  the  alert, 
danger  was  ever  present.  Their  houses  were  of  a  rude  sort, 
generally  built  for  comfort  and  defense,  and  with  small 
regard  to  appearances.  They  were  mostly  of  wood.  "The 
stalwart  planters  go  to  and  fro  on  horseback,"  but  mainly 
get  about  by  way  of  the  river. 

Some  of  the  more  important  houses  had,  even  at  this  early 
day,  some  pretensions  to  elegance  and  were  of  fairly  good 
size.  They  were  furnished  with  movables  brought  over  from 
the  mother  country. 

"  Here  is  the  smiling  lady  of  the  manor  in  a  huge  ruff, 
with  high-heeled  shoes  and  a  short  skirt,  coming  to  welcome 
us,  and  behind  her  is  her  spouse,  the  hearty  planter  himself. 
He  is  a  commander  and  head  of  a  hundred,  so  he  wears 
'gold  on  his  clothes '  as  the  law  entitles  iiim  to  do(i62i), 
others  are  forbidden  that.  His  official  duties  are  responsi- 
ble ones.  They  are  to  '  see  that  all  such  orders  as  heretofore 
have  been,  or  hereafter  shall  be  given  by  the  Governor  and 
Council,  be  duly  executed  and  obeyed'  in  the  hundred  which 
he  commands  (1624).  He  is  also  a  'commissioner'  or 
justice  of  the  peace,  to  determine  all  controversies  under  the 
value  of  one  hundred  pounds  of  tobacco.  Thus  the  worthy 
X  —  is  military  commander  and  civil  magistrate,  executive 
and  judge  of  the  little  community ;  a  royalist  in  sentiment, 
as  everybody  is,  a  Church  of  England  man,  and  a  hearty 
hater  of  things  papistical  and  of  dissent.  .  .  . 

"A  little  society  huddled  together  in  the  peninsula  between 
the  James  and  York;  dependencies  reaching  into  the  wilds  ; 
on  the  rivers  gold-laced  commanders  rowed  swiftly  by  indeti- 
tured  servants;  on  the  outposts  pioneers  watching  against 
attack;  everywhere  strong  contrasts  of  white,  red  and  black; 
the  society  composite,  but  harmonious  ;  the  Church  of  Eng- 

TucKAHOK,  (ioocHi.Axi)  Co.,  \'a.  —  But  a  half-liour"s  journey 
from  Kicliniond  stands  "  TuckahoL-,'' tlie  Randolph  estate,  h\tely 
purchased  by  Mr.  J.  Randolph  Coolidije,  of  lioston.  Take  the 
James  River  branch  of  the  C.  li  O.  at  Riclimond,  and  ride  for  about 


land  the  only  religion,  though  dissenters  will  soon  intrude  ; 
the  test-oath  against  papacy  demanded  of  every  new-comer 
and  official ;  the  Assembly  protesting  against  the  claim  of 
the  Governor  to  tax  them  by  proclamation  ;  men  in  armor 
going  to  harry  the  Indian  settlements  in  spring  and  autumn; 
public  officials  losing  their  ears;  double  engagements  be- 
tween men  and  maids  punished  with  fine  or  whipping — -this 
is  the  queer  old  society  which  we  have  looked  at.  The 
whole  is  English  in  warp  and  woof.  These  Virginians  of 
the  early  times  read  English  books,  wear  English  clothes, 
eat  from  English  plates  with  English  knives  and  forks,  and 
follow  England  in  all  things.  Their  church  is  the  Church  of 
England  ;  the  Governor  is  the  representative  of  the  King 
of  England  ;  his  Cour.cil  is  the  English  House  of  Lords,  and 
the  Burgesses  the  English  Parliament.  .  .  . 

"  They  were  simply  a  society  of  Englishmen,  of  the 
age  of  Shakespeare,  taken  out  of  England  and  set  down  in 
Virginia."' 

There  was  a  steady  extension  of  the  settlements  and  a 
regular  growth  of  the  wealth  and  condition  of  the  planters 
going  on  without  interruption  through  the  remaining  three- 
quarters  of  the  century,  and  with  these  better  fortunes  of  the 
colony  came,  of  course,  great  improvement  in  the  architecture 
of  the  young  country.  An  inordinate  passion  for  land-owning 
seems  to  have  early  possessed  them,  and  enormous  tracts  of 
country  were  granted  to  the  more  distinguished  settlers. 

The  population  of  Virginia  in  17 15  was  about  ninety-five 
thousand,  of  whom  twenty-three  thousand  were  negroes.  Of 
other  servants  there  were  many  persons  of  humble  degree 
who  worked  for  hire  upon  the  plantations,  besides  the  "  kids  " 
—  a  possible  derivation  from  kidnap  —  who  were  apprenticed 
for  terms  of  five  years,  and  finally  a  small  percentage  of  con- 
victed felons  who  had  been  forced  upon  the  colony  by  the 
Governmeiit  from  time  to  time,  and  who  were  farmed  out  to 
the  planters  at  low  rates. 

At  the  seats  of  the  aristocratic  great  planters  were  always 
large  retinues  of  slaves  and  indentured  servants,  and  life  at 
these  places  had  developed,  at  the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth 


bevond  the  "  Falls  "  :  that  is,  the  City  of  Richmond.  When  it  was 
built,  the  surrounding  country  was  a  vast  forest,  where  Indians 
hirked,    and   for   every   five    hundred    acres,    the   law   demanded 


Ctiimneypiece,  '*  Tuckalioe." 

twenty  minutes,  and  you  will  stop  at  a  shabby  country-station:  a 
short  walk  thence  hrin<;s  you  to  a  larj^e  neglected  garden  :  just 
beyond  stands  "  Tuckahoe.''  Here  Thomas  Jetferson's  boyhood 
was  spent.  It  never  belonged  to  tlie  Jeffersons,  It  was  one  of  the 
many  seats  of  the  Randolphs,  and  was  the  first  franied-dwelling 


Back  Parlor  Mantel,  "Tuckalioe.'* 

"  I  Xtien  man  perfect  of  limb,  jirovided  with  a  well  fixt  musquctt  or 
fu/ee,  a  good  pistoll.  shar|)  simeter  and  tomaliawk,"  a  feeble  guard, 
it  seems,  against  tlie  red  foes.  —  .-S".  JV.  JH. 


'  "  ;  7;;i,>-////V?,"  by  John  listen  Cooke. 


34 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


century,  into  an  affair  of  much  luxury  and  lavish  expenditure. 

Very  few  of  the  handsomest  of  the  colonial  manor-houses 
antedate  this  time.  The  rage  for  building  costly  houses  lasted 
up  to  the  first  years  of  the  Revolution.  But  the  stress  of 
that  long,  hard  struggle  gave  the  people  other  matters  to 
think  of,  and  a  decadence  in  the  architecture  of  Virginia  set 
in  about  that  period. 

Thomas  Jefferson,  writing  his  "-Notes"  in  1781,  has  some- 
thing to  say  about  the  rude  huts  of  the  poorer  classes,  built 
in  pens  and  with  the  crevices  between  the  logs  roughly 
smeared  up  with  plaster.  He  adds  that  board  houses  were 
erected  nearly  everywhere  in  preference  to  buildings  of  brick 
or  stone,  a  false  idea  prevailing  that  the  latter  were  damp, 
and  admitted  rain  through  the  walls.  He  goes  on  to  disprove 
this  to  his  own  satisfaction,  and  deplores  the  e.xclusive  use  of 
wood  in  building,  wliich  precludes  all  hope  of  improvement 
in  the  architecture  of  the  country,  both  because  of  the  neces- 
sarily temporary  character  and  short  life  of  these  wooden 
houses  and  the  inadaptability  of  the  material  to  elegance  and 
dignity  of  design. 

The  first  three-quarters  of  the  eighteenth  century,  then, 
were  unquestionably  the  golden  age  of  Virginia  in  the  matter 
of  architecture,  and  perhaps  in  other  respects  besides.     The 

'Carter  Hall,  Millwood,  Clarke  Co.,  Va.  —  It  seems 
impossible  for  an  investigator  to  get  at  any  historical  facts  of  any 
kind  in  the  Southern  States  without  almost  at  once  losing  his 
bearings  while  trying  to  keep  clearly  before  his  mind  the  stor}'  of 
genealogical  ascent  and  descent  wliich  the  Southerner  of  the  upper 
classes  recites  so  glibly  on  all  occasions,  for  he  has  the  amiable 
delusion  that  you  are  as  much  interested  in  family  trees  as  he  is, 
and  of  course  must  know  all  about  the  more  important  branches, 
at  least,  along  which  his  tale  conducts  you.  The  cult  of  the 
family  tree  distinguishes  the  Soutliern  from  the  Northern  gentle- 
man quite  as  much  as  any  other  thing.  Another  Southern  custom, 
the  use  of  surnames  as  given  names,  makes  the  story  only  the 
more  bewildering,  if  you  have  not  time  and  inclination  to  give  to 
the  unravelling  of  it.     All  one  can  do  is  to  allow  his  subconscious- 


manorial  country-seats  of  that  day  were  always  built  upon 
the  river  shores,  and  each  place  had  its  long  wharf  ex- 
tending out  into  water  deep  enough  for  the  light-draught 
English  vessels  which  lay  at  their  ends  unloading  London 
commodities,  and  taking  on  tobacco  for  England. 

Carter  Burwell's'  famous  house,  Carter's  Grove,  stands  upon 
an  eminence  about  seventy-five  feet  higher  than  the  river. 
Three  broad  terraces  break  the  descent  to  the  level  fields 
lying  along  the  river  shore.  The  view  from  the  house,  across 
the  meadows  and  over  the  glistening  river  widening  out  below 
into  Burwell's  Bay,  is  very  fine.  Away  up  stream,  to  the  west- 
ward, one  is  shown  where  Jamestown  stood  in  the  olden  time. 

Enormously  costly  must  have  been  the  building  of  such  a 
house  as  this  one  in  a  country  so  destitute  of  proper  material 
and  workmanship  as  was  the  Virginia  of  its  day.  It  would 
be  very  interesting  to  know  something  about  the  making  of 
the  plan  of  the  house,  the  arrangement  and  details  of  which 
have  evidently  received  such  careful  study.  It  is  singular 
that  the  names  of  the  architects  of  these  aristocratic  mansions 
should  be  nowhere  discoverable,  and  yet,  of  course,  the  titles 
of  the  owners  and  occupants  are  always  so  intimately  associ- 
ated with  a  house  that  others  connected  with  its  construction 
may  very  easily  be  forgotten.     Doubtless,  whatever  plans 

The  Van  Lew  Mansion,  Richmond,  Va.  —  On  the  "other 
hill,"  which  Richmonders  call  Church  Hill,  the  spot  of  Richmond's 
nativity,  stands  historic  old  "  St.  John's,"  where  Patrick  Henry 
uttered  the  memoral)Ie  words,  "  Give  me  liberty  or  give  me  death." 
This  church  was  built  in  1740  and  has  been  used  as  a  house  of 
worship  ever  since.  Here,  too,  is  the  famous  "\'an  Lew  "  resi- 
dence, set  in  riotous  shrubbery  and  perennial  blossoms. 

"  Miss  Bet  \'an  Lew  "  is  one  of  the  distinct  personalities  of  this 
city.  Her  parents  moved  to  Richmond  some  years  prior  to  the 
Civil  \V'ar,  and  became  interested  citizens.  Betty  grew  up  in  one 
of  the  exclusive  circles  of  well-born  children  on  the  "  Hill,"  and 
all  went  smoothly  until  a  governess  from  \'ermont  was  employed 
in  the  \'an  Lew  household.  Tliis  woman  was  thoroughly  imbued 
with  a  horror  of  slavery,  and  attempted  to  plant  this  in  the  minds 
of  her  young  pupils.     Many  children  were  taught  at  the  \'an  Lew 


'■^ 

^'M 

~M 

ifef'"* 

.tf/ffiiM 

.\ 

|^^^,;i 

-    .^^BH^H 

BBPi^'  ^m.  ^m. 

EwkyHHI 

\  i 

^•4'"/,: 

M-l   4 

■    ; 

I-1I 

SB^i^ 

I-'h 

_.i 

LP'S 

''^^.-  -'^:  ' 

^ '  .3 

« 

'^M 

^ 

ss 

"'  ':■ '  '^■^ 

^W 

.^is:' 

"  Carter  Hall,"  Millwood,  Clarke  Co.,  Va. 

ness  to  acknowledge  that  there  must  be  some  blood  connection 
between  the  Carter  Nelson  Pages,  the  Page  Carter  Nelsons  and  the 
Nelson  Page  Carters,  and  so  on,  and  that  therein  lies  an  all-sufficient 
explanation  of  pretty  much  everything.  And  so  it  is  with  the  place- 
names  of  their  country  seat.s,  and  when  you  come  upon  a  "  Carter 
Hall  "  you  are  probably  right  in  deciding  that  its  owner,  be  his 
name  Page  or  Nelson  or  Mann  or  anything  else,  can  trace  his  de- 
scent back  to  King  Carter  of  Corotoman.  So,  though  the  Carter 
Hall,  at  Millwood,  Clarke  Co.,  \'a.,  is  owned  by  Mr.  George  H. 
Burwell,  it  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  the  place-name  of  this 
estate  is  due  to  a  desire  to  make  public  acknowledgment  of  a 
certain  pride  of  l)irtli.  At  any  rate.  Carter  Hall  at  Millwood  is 
a  fair  tvjje  of  the  (ieorijian  work  of  the  latest  period  and  is 
merely  a  good  sam])le  of  the  many  "white  ])illared  homes"  of  the 
Southern  gentleman. —  ¥.i>. 


Tlie  Van  Lew  Mansion,  Richmond,  Va. 

house  with  little  Miss  \'an  Lew,  but  the  seed  seemed  to  dry  up 
and  wither  in  every  breast  but  that  of  little  '■  I5et."  She  became 
a  fanatic  and  treasured  the  purpose  of  aiding  in  the  abolition  of 
slaverv,  and  dreamed  of  nothing  else  in  the  remaining  years  of  her 
childhood.  Just  as  womanhood  dawned,  the  War  came,  and  Miss 
Van  Lew  became  a  spy,  braving  every  difficulty  to  help  the 
Northern  cause.  At  night  she  would  steal  from  home  and  fear- 
lessly go  into  uncanny  places  to  carry  tidings  of  value  to  Northern 
sympathizers  who  lurked  about  the  city.  She  was  detested  but 
not  disturbed.  After  the  war  she  became  post-mistress  of  Rich- 
mond, and  now  aged,  bent,  living  still  in  her  spacious  house,  sur- 
rounded densely  by  flowers,  box-hedge  and  trees,  she  treasures 
fierce  animosity,  and  in  her  fading  years  her  life  is  a  protest  against 
her  environment.  Tliougli  her  slaves  are  freed,  she  seems  in  her 
restless  age  to  long  for  other  changes.  —  .S".  JV.  Ji. 


SHIRLEY. 


35 


there  may  have  been  were  made  in  England,  the  colony 
hardly  affording  at  that  stage  of  her  existence  a  very  promis- 
ing field  for  architectural  immigrants.  The  English  manor- 
house  of  the  period  was  the  invariable  model.  The  division 
of  space  was  extremely  simple.  The  finishing  of  the  interior, 
the  arrangement  of  the  handsome  wainscotings,  the  mould- 
ings of  the  architraves,  chair-boards,  bases,  friezes  and 
cornices,  and  the  work  upon  the  great  rich  stairways,  all 
evince  careful  study  and  an  educated  taste. 

Nearly  everything  was  brought  over  from  England,  it 
would  seem,  and  the  cost  of  transportation  alone  must  have 
been  considerable.  It  is  to  be  presumed  that  there  were 
enough  competent  workmen  in  Virginia  to  put  things  to- 
gether when  they  arrived  on  this  side.  Nevertheless,  it  must 
all  have  cost  a  pretty  figure,  and  no  doubt  these  lordly 
planters  paid  in  princely  fashion  for  their  magnificence. 

Mann  Page  seems  to  have  well-nigh  ruined  himself  in  the 
building  of  his  great  manor-house  of  Rosewell,  and  we  find 
his  son  petitioning  the  Burgesses  for  authority  to  sell  enor- 
mous tracts  of  the  Page  domain  in  order  to  pay  the  debts  of 
his  father,  both  in  England  and  in  the  colony,  he  having  found 
it  beyond  his  power  to  liquidate  them  from  the  proceeds  of 
the  estates.  These  lands  included  eight  thousand  acres 
in  the  estate  of  Pageland,  in  Frederick  County,  ten  thousand 
acres  in  Prince  William,  four  thousand  five  hundred  in  Spott- 
sylvania,  one  thousand  in  King  William,  two  thousand  in 
Hanover,  two  thousand  in  James  City,  besides  lands  in 
Essex,  Gloucester  and  elsewhere,  not  enumerated. 

Bishop  Meade,  in  his  "  OM  Churches  and  Families  of  Vir- 
ginia" says  :  — 

"  Now  it  cannot  be  doubted  that  the  tradition  is  correct 
that  much  if  not  all  of  the  original  debt  was  contracted  for 
the  erection  of  this  immense  pile  of  building,  every  brick  of 
which,  and  doubtless  much  other  material,  together  with  the 
workmen,  were  imported  from  England  and  not  paid  for, 
except  by  his  agents  and  frientls  there,  until  the  sale  of 
these  lands  in  Virginia  enabled  the  son,  long  after,  to  do  it. 
The  whole  of  the  roof  of  this  ancient  building  was  covered 
with  heavy  lead  over  the  shingles.  The  result  of  this  im- 
mense expenditure  was  not  only  the  entailing  a  heavy  debt 
upon  his  estate,  and  the  causing  a  sale  of  lands  which  might 
have  furnished  his  posterity  for  some  generations  with  farms, 
but  the  keeping  up  such  an  establishment  has  been  a  burden 
on  all  who  have  possessed  it  to  the  present  day,  as  must  be 
the  case  with  all  such  establishments. 

"For  a  long  time  old  Rosewell  has  been  standing  on 
Carter's  Creek,  in  sight  of  York  River,  like  an  old  deserted 
English  castle,  in  solitary  grandeur,  scarce  a  tree  or  shrub 
around  it  to  vary  or  beautify  the  scene.  No  one  of  the  name 
of  him  who  built  it  has  owned  it  or  could  afford  to  own  it  for 
generations.  Some  stranger  fills  the  Stuarts'  throne.  Sic 
transit  gloria  mundi." 

But  the  worthy  bishop  does  not  consider  the  very  great 
cost  of  working  or  even  merely  owning  such  a  principality 
as  the  Pages  governed. 

"The  Acts  of  Assembly  give  us  other  instances  in  old 
Virginia.  Mr.  Lewis  Burwell,  of  King's  Mill,  near  Williams- 
burg, built  a  house  worthy  of  his  first-born  son  to  live  in  ; 
and  that  first-born  son,  after  his  father's  death,  was  obliged 
to  petition  the  legislature  for  leave  to  break  the  entail  and 
sell  a  large  tract  of  land  in  King  William  to  pay  for  it." 

The  laws  of  primogeniture  and  entail  were  even  more  rig- 
idly enforced  in  Virginia  than  in  England,  and  estates  were 
handed  down  for  generations  in  the  line  of  the  eldest  son. 

The  Lewis  Burwell  of  King's  Mill,  whom  the  bishop 
cites  in  his  disapproval  of  the  luxurious  and  expensive  ele- 
gance of  the  colonial  houses,  was  the  son  of  Major  Lewis 
Burwell  and  Elizabeth,  daughter  of  the  great  Robert  Carter, 
of  Corotoman,  and  a  brother  of  Carter  Burwell,  who  built  the 
manor-house  of  Carter's  Grove,  which  we  have  just  described, 


in  the  year  1737.  The  wife  of  the  latter  gentleman  was  Lucy 
Grymes,  whose  sister  married  Mann  Page,  both  ladies  being 
the  daughters  of  the  Honorable  John  Grymes. 

A  son  of  Carter  Burwell,  of  the  Grove,  was  Colonel 
Nathaniel  Burwell,  of  Carter  Hall,  in  Frederick  County. 

SHIRLEY. 

The  old  manor-house  of  Shirley  stands  upon  the  brow  of 
a  low  bluff  on  the  north  shore  of  the  James,  just  opposite  the 
mouth  of  the  Appomattox.  Westward,  across  the  river,  is 
the  ancient  settlement  of  Bermuda  Hundred. 


The  steamers  plying  to  and  from  Riclimond  will  put  in  at 
Shirley  landing,  or  one  may  reach  the  old  place  by  way  of 
Petersburg,  coming  up  from  the  town  to  City  Point  by  rail 
and  depending  on  the  somewhat  uncertain  chance  of  finding 
a  boatman  to  put  one  across  to  Shirley.  The  row  across 
from  the  point  is  charming  on  a  bright  morning,  the  river 
flowing  -n  a  broad  and  beautiful  reach  by  Shirley.  Your 
wherry,  running  in  under  the  tree-crowned,  grassy  bluif  on 
which  Shirley  stands,  soon  grates  her  keel  upon  a  little  peb- 
bly beach;  in  a  moment  you  have  scaled  this  slope  and 
stand  upon  the  lawn,  the  noble  front  of  the  ancient  manor- 
house  before  you,  a  great  square  house,  with  walls  of  dull 
red  brick,  two  stories  high  and  crowned  by  a  tall,  high- 
pitched  mansard  roof. 

A  stately  portico,  also  in  two  stories,  pleasantly  shades  the 


^^TI — Y 

'  XL- 

w^ 

S^ 

\     '_^ 

J 

^^ 

\ 

,  \M 

j^  vjaPjV^ 

JJ^ 

^hrL^^ 

s 

f       * 

ALd^^t^ 

2^^  ^ 

1 

k^k 

I 

mm 

ijLj 

^,—-^^—^—^^^—^,^— 

^^^H 

Shirley. 

entrance-doors  and  the  middle  part  of  the  house  from  the 
too-fervid  summer  suns,  lieneath  this  shelter  is  a  broad 
stone  platform  to  which  four  stone  steps,  extending  the  full 
width  of  the  portico,  lead  up  from  the  lawn.  There  are  four 
round  columns  of  wood,  generous  of -girth  and  turned  with 
an  evident  antl  graceful  entasis.  The  base  of  each  column 
is  fluted  for  about  eight  inches  above  a  square  stone  plinth. 
The  capitals  are  quite  flat.  The  neck  is  encircled  by  a  deli- 
cate astragal.  The  abacus  is  square,  with  slight  thickness 
lessened  in  effect  by  a  cyma  on  the  under  edge.  A  pilaster 
finishes  against  the  wall  on  either  side,  and  between  the  two 
the  whole  wall  beneath  the  portico  is  covered  with  hard  white 


36 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


plaster.  The  surface  of  the  ceiling  is  broken  into  broad  pan- 
ellings. A  deep  entablature,  consisting  of  narrow  architrave, 
broad  plain  frieze  and  boldly  projecting  cornice  rests  upon 
the  columns.  Above  are  reared  the  more  slender  columns  of 
the  upper  porch,  and  between  them  is  run  a  simple  balustrade. 
The  upper  entablature  is  a  repetition  of  that  below,  except 
that  the  cornice  is  richer  and  of 
more  delicate  design,  being  a  con- 
tinuation, upon  the  same  level,  of 
the  cornice  of  the  house,  and  char- 
acterized by  richer  ornainentation 
of  the  corona  and  a  strongly  pro- 
jecting course  of  dentil  brackets. 
The  raking  and  horizontal  cornices 
of  the  pediment  enclose  an  unem- 
bellished  tympanum.  The  soffit 
of  the  roof  is  panelled  and  the 
house  wall  beneath  is  plastered  as 
below. 

The  whole  portico,  excepting  the 
stone  platform  and  steps,  is  painted 
in  white.  It  makes  a  light  and 
graceful  and  yet  dignified  and  im- 
posing effect.  There  is  a  charm- 
ing little  repetition  in  half-scale,  of 
this  portico,  over  the  side  door  of 
the  house,  which  has  columns,  en- 
tablature, cornice,  pediment  and 
roof  in  similar  treatment.^ 


and  high,  and  have  double  sashes  set  in  heavy  white  frames 
and  divided  into  twenty  panes  to  each  window.  They  have 
modern  outside  slat  blinds  folded  back  against  the  wall,  and 
are  provided  on  the  inside  with  the  old-fashioned  solid- 
panelled  shutters  folding  in  the  depth  of  the  generous  reveal, 
the  frames  set  well  to  the  outside,  leaving  the  thickness  of 
«  the  solid  walls  within. 

Flat  brick  arches  crown  the 
openings.  The  lines  of  the  old 
mansard  roof  are  not  unpleasing. 
The  attic  has  a  good  height,  the 
feet  of  the  rafters  are  curved  out- 
ward at  the  eaves  to  make  a  broad 
overhang,  and  the  dormers  rear 
high-peaked  gables  over  all. 

The  chimneys  cut  out  of  the  up- 
per roof  and  rear  a  story's  height 
above  the  edge  in  two  massive  ob- 
long stacks.  Between  the  two  the 
roof-peak  flowers  in  a  great  acorn- 
shaped  wooden  finial. 

The  solid,  square  bulk  of  the 
old  manor-house  wears  a  stately, 
high-born  air,  standing  in  the  midst 
of  the  green  lawn,  among  the  great 
trees,  which  stretch  out  spreading 
boughs  high  in  air  above  the  roof- 
tree. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  lawn,  be- 


The  Pigeon  House :    Shirley. 

The  great  double  portico  here  described  upon  the  river-  hind  a  fine  old  box  hedge,  is  an  old-fashioned  garden,  where 
front  repeats  itself  upon  the  land  side  of  the  house.  Beneath  vegetables,  fruits  and  flowers  mingle  in  democratic  good 
this  portico  the  main  entrance  opens  into  the  great  hall,     fellowship  —  a   long  garden,  where   one  gets   lovely  vistas 


From  the  river-side 
one  enters  immedi- 
ately into  the  draw- 
ing-room. 

Absolute  symme- 
try of  design  char- 
acterizes the  house 
in  all  of  its  exterior 
details.  The  open- 
ings in  each  story 
are  exactly  over 
those  below.  Even 
the  five  tall  dormers 
on  the  front  and 
rear  slopes  of  the 
mansard,  flanked 
by  the  four  exactly 
like  them  on  either 
end,  correspond  in 
width  and  height 
with  the  size  of 
doors  and  windows 
in  the  principal 
stories. 

The  walls  are 
carried  up  to  the 
eaves,  two  stories  from  the  ground,  in  small  English  brick, 
laid  in  Flemish  bond,  without  break  other  than  the  offset  of 
the  thicker  wall  below  the  water-table  and  a  band,  slightly 
projected  and  several  courses  deep,  carried  around  the  house 
at  the  second-floor  level. 

The  color  is  a  very  rich  dull  red.     The  windows  are  broad 


The  Staircase  Hall:    Shirley. 


1  See  sketch  on  page  38. 


down  under  the 
hanging  boughs  of 
the  peach-trees, 
where  there  are  a 
dial,  an  arbor,  and 
all  sorts  of  delight- 
ful things  of  ancient 
flavor. 

In  one  of  Mr. 
Besant's  books 
*'■  For  Faith  and 
Freedom"  he  paints 
an  old  English 
garden,  of  which 
the  Shirley  garden 
is  almost  a  counter- 
part :  — 

"  In  the  gardens 
of  the  manor-house 
the  sunflowers  and 
the  hollyhocks 
were  at  their  tallest 
and  best ;  the  yel- 
low roses  on  the 
wall  were  still  in 
clusters  ;  the  sweet 
peas  hung  with 
tangles  of  vine  and  flowers  upon  their  stalks  ;  the  bachelor's 
buttons,  the  sweet  mignonette,  the  nasturtium,  the  gilly- 
flowers and  stocks,  the  sweet-williams  and  the  pansies,  open 
their  late  summer  blossoms  to  the  hot  sun  among  the  lav- 
ender, thyme,  parsley,  sage,  feverfew  and  vervain  of  my 
lady's  garden." 

On  the  north  side  of  the  lawn  are  two  brick  houses  of  two 
stories  each  in  height,  containing  the  kitchen,  scullery  and 
other  offices,  and  the  quarters  of  the  domestics. 


SHIRLEY. 


37 


Beyond  these  a  fence  shuts  off  the  great,  roomy  barn-yard, 
where  there  are  the  long,  rambling  brick  stables,  the  dairy 
and  tool-house  of  brick,  queer  old  log  tobacco-houses,  and 
barns  and  corn-cribs. 

In  a  field  beyond  the  barn-yard  enclosure  is  a  charming 
little  columbarium,  or  dove-cote,  a  round  tower  built  of  brick 
and  crowned  by  a  steep,  cone-shaped,  shingled  roof,  ending 
in  an  open  lantern  or  belfry-like  turret,  in  and  out  of  which 
pigeons  in  white  and  blue  and  bronze  are  flying  and  flashing 
in  the  bright  sunshine. 

Within  the  barn-yard  droves  of  turkeys  are  stepping  about, 
regiments  of  white  geese  hissing  as  they  march;  files  of 
ducks  in  bravely  glistening  green  and  gold  march  waddling 
hither  and  yon  ;  clucking  hens  leading  their  fluffy  broods 
hurry  in  quest  of  the  unwary  worm  or  chance  scatterings  of 
grain,  while  strutting  cocks  of  gallant  mien  lord  it  grandly 
over  cackling,  chattering,  idly-wandering  wives;  here  and 
there  a  lazy,  lop-eared  hound  lies  stretched  asleep  where  the 


On  entering,  one  has  the  length  of  the  great  hall  on  his 
right,  with  the  rich  soffit  of  the  stairway  overhead.  On  the 
left,  a  broad  door  opens  through  the  panelled  wall  into 
the  library  or  morning  room,  a  very  charming  apartment, 
whose  walls  are  wainscoted  from  floor  to  ceiling  in  panels  of 
considerable  size.  Opposite  the  hall-door  is  the  entrance  to 
the  parlor,  and  opposite  this  another  wide  doorway  gives 
upon  the  portico  on  the  river-side  of  the  house. 

A  handsome  broad  stairway,  starting  in  the  right-hand 
corner  of  the  hall,  by  a  door  opening  out  upon  the  little  west 
porch  already  described,  with  three  steps  up  to  a  first  land- 
ing, mounts  with  a  luxuriously  easy  ascent  to  the  second 
platform,  whence  it  swings  out  from  the  wall  across  the  hall 
until  it  meets  the  second-floor  level. 

The  side  of  the  first  flight  is  enclosed  by  a  panelled  parti, 
tion,  and  a  door  under  the  landing  opens  on  the  cellar-stairs. 
The  ends  of  the  treads  project  beyond  the  partition,  and  are 
effectively  moulded  on  the  under-side.     The  exposed  soffit 


Ttie  Staircase   Hall:    Shirley. 


sun  shines  warm  ;  and  down  at  the  stables  the  boys,  with 
cheery  song  and  laugh,  groom  their  horses  or  wash  down  the 
great  state-coach. 

Beyond  the  farm  premises,  landward,  stretches  the  farm 
road,  under  a  long  avenue  of  old  locusts,  across  the  level 
fields,  through  many  gates  and  up  a  hill,  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  manor-house,  on  the  top  of  whicli  is  a  row  of  steep- 
roofed  board  houses,  the  "quarters  of  the  field-hands"  in 
the  old  happy  times  before  the  war. 

Shirley  differs  in  some  essential  points  from  the  other 
great  colonial  residences  of  tide-water  James.  The  plan  of 
the  house  is,  in  fact,  very  like  that  of  some  of  the  ancient 
manoirs  of  media;val  France.  Tiie  hall  does  not  bisect  the 
house  from  front  to  rear,  as  usual  in  houses  of  the  same 
period,  but  occupies  the  whole  northwest  quarter  of  the  first 
floor.  It  is  a  spacious  and  handsome  hall,  and  gives  an  air 
of  baronial  grandeur  to  the  house.  The  principal  entrance 
is  beneath  the  portico  on  the  land-side  by  a  wide  single  door. 


of  the  second  run  presents,  also,  a  rich  ornamentation  worthy 
of  note.  The  bottom  step  is  broader  than  the  rest,  and  over 
its  rounded  outer  end  the  railing  swings  out  in  a  spiral  twist, 
forming  a  handsome  newel.  The  rail  is  carried  up  with 
graceful  ramps  and  knees,  and  is  supported  on  richly-turned 
balusters,  set  three  to  a  tread. 

As  one  stands  at  the  foot  and  looks  up  through  the  well, 
the  handsome  stairway,  springing  gracefully  from  floor  to 
landing,  thence  to  floors  above,  has  a  grandly  generous  and 
dignified  effect.  The  walls  are  panelled  for  their  full  height 
above  the  dado  in  large  panels  of  white-painted  wood,  as, 
indeed,  is  the  case  in  the  four  rooms  on  the  first  floor. 

Opposite  the  foot  of  the  stairs  is  a  door  opening  into  the 
dining-room,  a  cheery,  bright  room  in  the  southeast  angle  of 
the  house,  on  the  river-side,  lighted  by  four  large  windows, 
two  of  which  look  upon  the  western  lawn,  and  two  toward 
the  river.  Upon  the  panelled  walls  of  this  room  hang  many 
interesting   old  portraits  of   the  famous  ones  of  the  race. 


38 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Among  these  is  a  great,  full-length,  life-size  portrait  of  George  Over  the  door  into  the  dining-room  is  a  broken  pediment, 
Washington  by  the  painter  Peale,  which  quite  fills  up  or.e  much  affected  in  that  period,  the  raking  cornices  of  which 
corner  of  the  room.  Washington  was  not,  however,  of  the  are  run  in  graceful  curves,  ending  in  a  spiral  twist  and  elabo- 
blood  of  the  Carters.  The  open  door  offers  a  glimpse  down  rate  rosettes.  Between  them  is  carved  a  pineapple  in  high 
the  length  of  the  great  parlor  toward  the  southeast  corner,  in  relief.  On  the  dining-room  side  a  Classic  urn  stands  within 
which  looms  a  tall  old  mahogany  clock  of  Liverpool  make,  the  ends  of  the  broken  pediment.  Glazed  transoms  of  grace- 
on  either  side  of  which  hang  portraits,  done  by  Sir  Godfrey  ful  design  are  set  over  the  outer  doors,  and  over  that  from  the 
Kneller,  of  an  eighteenth-century  squire  and  his  lady,  who  hall  into  the  drawing-room.  The  massive  doors  are  made  in 
were,  if  I  remember  aright,  John  Carter  and  his  wife,  the  six  raised  and  bevelled  panels,  with  broad  styles  and  rails, 
first  Carters  of  Shirley.  and  have  great  rim-locks,  drop-handles  and  other  furniture 

The  south  wall  of  the  drawing-room  has  three  openings,  of  polished  brass, 

set  in  deep  embrasures  in  the  massive  wall,  two  windows  and  Two  centuries  of  wear  and  tear  had  not  impaired  the  per- 

a  door,  the  latter  giving  upon  the  river  portico ;  and  there  feet  condition  of  the  old  woodwork,  when,  in  an  evil  day.  the 

are  two  windows  in  the  east  wall,  from  which  one  looking  ever  deadly,  destroying  furnace  was  set  up  in  the  cellar,  then 

across  the  lawn  to  the  box-hedged  garden,  or  through  the  after  it  had  poured  its  parching  breath  for  scarce  as  many 


trees,  has  a  glimpse  of  the 
broad  river  glistening  beyond. 

The  drawing-room  has  half 
the  width  of  the  whole  house. 
A  wide  chimney-breast  pro- 
jects into  the  room  from  the 
partition  or  north  wall,  and 
there  is  a  deep,  generous 
fireplace,  about  four  feet  high 
by  five  feet  wide.  The  fac- 
ings of  the  fireplace  are  of 
white  marble,  enclosed  in  a 
narrow  wood  frame  boldly 
carved  with  the  somewhat 
trite  egg-and-tongue  motive. 
Above  the  frame  is  set  a  frieze 
of  convex  form  richly  and 
delicately  carved  in  a  con- 
ventionalized design  showing 
flowers  bound  with  crossed 
ribbons.  Above  the  frieze  a 
narrow  mantel-shelf  is 
brought  out  in  well-propor- 
tioned members  enriched  by 
refined  mouldings.  'J'he 
panel  covering  the  breast 
over  the  mantel  is  set  around 
with  a  deep  and  richly-carved 
frame,  probably  designed  to 
enclose  a  great  mirror. 

The  three  portraits  over  the 
mantel  are  done  in  crayons 
by  St.  Memin,  a  French  artist 


:^^ 


ft- 


The  West  Porch:    Shirley. 


months  through  the  stately 
rooms  of  the  old  mansion, 
great  rents  began  to  appear 
in  the  large  panels,  built  up 
of  many  pieces  carefully 
joined  at  the  edges,  and  hori- 
zontal seams  yawned  in  the 
broad,  plain  surface  of  the 
dado,  mitres  becoming  un- 
pleasantly obvious  here  and 
there,  and  mouldings  shrink- 
ing away  from  their  beds. 

Shirley  was  probably  so 
named  in  honor  of  the  wife 
of  Lord  De  la  Warre,  a 
daughter  of  Sir  Thomas 
Shirley,  of  Whiston.  Its 
history  is  almost  as  long  as 
that  of  the  colony. 

The  place  was  founded  by 
Sir  Thomas  Dale,  High-Mar- 
shal of  Virginia,  who  came 
over  in  1611  to  succeed  Lord 
De  la  Warre,  and  who,  after 
establishing  his  city  of  Hen- 
ricus,  at  Dutch  Gap,  or  Va- 
rina,  as  it  was  then  called, 
and  set  it  growing  behind  its 
palisades,  laid  out  the  settle- 
ments of  Bermuda  Hundred 
and  of  Shirley  Hundred,  on 
the   opposite    shore    of    the 


James.     His  lordship  appears 

who  came  to  this  country  about  1789,  and  who  did,  likewise,  to  have  been  a  governor  of  immense  force  and  untiring 
one  of  the  numerous  portraits  of  General  Washington.  In  energy.  He  soon  rid  the  colony  of  the  hordes  of  dissipated 
the  angle  of  wall  and  ceiling  is  set  a  deep  cornice,  consisting      idlers  who  had  well-nigh  wrought  its  ruin  before  his  coming. 


of  an  architrave  marked  with  light  horizontal  lines,  a  project- 
ing fillet,  a  swelling  frieze,  a  hollow  moulding  ornamented 
with  delicnte,  reed-like,  horizontal  flutings,  a  course  of 
bracket  dentils,  and  over  all  a  boldly-projecting  corona. 

Close  study  of  detail  is  everywhere  observable  in  the  finish 
of  this  beautiful  room.     The  base,  or  wash-board,  is  painted 


He  set  them  to  work,  every  man  of  them,  and  when  a  number 
of  malcontents  conspired  together  to  resist  his  authority,  he 
arrested  and  put  to  death  the  ringleaders  of  them  by  the 
pleasantly  varied  methods  of  "hanging,  shooting,  breaking 
on  the  wheel,  and  the  like,"  while  one  pernicious  fellow,  pre- 
sumably of  doubtful  veracity,  "had  a  bodkin  thrust  through 


black,  while  all  above  is  in  white  of  an  antique  ivory  tone,  his  tongue,  and  was  chained  to  a  tree  until  he  perished." 

Above  the  base  is  set  a  moulding  two  inches  deep,  composed  l!y  means  of  such  novel  and  convincing  arguments  did  the 

of  a  number  of  delicate  members.     'l"he  dado  presents   a  stern  old  founder  of  Shirley  persuade  the  adventurers  that 

plain,  unbroken  surface,  and  is  capped  by  a  chair-board  four  he  meant  to  be  obeyed,  and  he  very  speedily  brought  the 

inches  deep,  moulded  in  pleasing  form.     In  each  of  the  great  colony  into  a  better  state. 

panels  above  hangs  the  portrait  of  some  fair  chatelaine  of  In  the  terrible  Indian  massacre  of  1622,  Shirley  seems  to 

Shirley,   usually   displaying    a   generous    expanse   of    snowy  have  escaped  without  loss. 

neck,  or  of  some  burly  squire  resplendent  in  curling  wig  and  Colonel   Edward  Hill,  who  built  his  house  at  Shirley  in 

falling  laces.  1640,  was  elected  speaker  of  the  House  of  Burgesses  in  1654, 


BERKELEY. 


39 


and  two  years  later  led  a  force  of  Virginians,  with  one  hun- 
dred friendly  Indians  of  the  Pamunkey  tribe,  against  seven 
hundred  hostile  Riecabecrians  who  had  descended  the  James 
from  their  hunting-grounds  beyond  the  Blue  Ridge,  and 
encamped  near  Richmond,  greatly  alarming  the  settlers. 
Colonel  Hill  fell  upon  their  camp  and  fought  a  great  battle, 
but  he  was  routed  and  fled  in  great  disorder,  leaving  among 
the  dead  upon  the  field  his  faithful  ally,  Totapotomoi,  Chief 
of  the  Pamunkeys.  Twenty  years  later,  in  Bacon's  As- 
sembly, the  widow  of  the  fallen  brave  appeared  before  the 
Burgesses  to  answer,  as  "Queen  of  the  Pamunkeys,"  a  de- 
mand upon  her  tribe  for  fighting  men  to  help  the  colonists 
against  the  threatening  redskins.  She  was  accompanied  by 
her  stripling  son,  "  whose  father  was  said  to  be  an  English 
colonel,"  and  dressed  in  the  picturesque  splendor  of  the  sav- 
age she  bore  herself  with  royal  mien,  replying  to  the  ques- 
tions of  the   Burgesses  in   "a  high,   shrill   voice,   and   with 


BERKELEY. 

The  ancient  place  of  Berkeley  was  probably  settled  soon 
after  Shirley  and  by  some  of  that  company  of  Sir  Thomas 
Dale's  which  located  at  Bermuda  Hundred  in  1611. 

The  gentle  'I'horpe,  friend  and  teacher  of  the  Indians 
who  swarmed  the  banks  of  the  lower  James  in  those  early 
times,  was  slaughtered  here  in  the  Massacre  of  1622  by  his 
treacherous  pupils,  on  the  ground  where  he  had  labored  with 
such  loving  zeal  for  their  enlightenment. 

The  present  house  of  Berkeley  was  built  a  century  later. 
A  date  cut  in  the  bricks  on  the  northeast  corner  of  the 
house — 17  E  H  25 — maybe  accepted  as  fair  evidence  of 
the  age  of  the  structure,  which  is  very  plain  and  unpre- 
tentious and  lays  small  claim  to  any  great  interest  of  an 
architectural  kind. 

There  is  a  broad  veranda   around  the  four  sides  of  the 


lierkelev. 


vehement  passion  —  'Totapotomoi  chepiak' — -Totapotomoi 
is  dead."  Her  words  were  interpreted  to  the  assembly 
by  Colonel  Hill,  of  Shirley,  the  son  of  the  hero  of  the 
Riecabecrian  fight. 

Shirley  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Carters  with  the 
marriage  of  John  Carter,  a  son  of  "King  Carter  of  Coroto- 
nian,"  to  Elizabeth  Hill,  who  inherited  her  father's  estate 
and  manor-house  of  Shirley. 

A  sketch  of  the  great  genealogical  tree  which,  from  the 
parent  stem  at  Shirley,  has  shot  out  branches  covering  the 
whole  of  Tidewater  Virginia  is  not  to  be  attempted  in  a 
paper  of  limited  scope.  The  family  boasts  a  vast  connec- 
tion, indefinitely  extended  by  intermarriages  among  the  great 
families  of  the  neighboring  boroughs  and  parishes.  The  age 
of  the  manor-house  of  Shirley  has  been  variously  stated,  and 
it  has  been  assigned  to  a  date  as  early  as  the  middle  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  though  it  is  far  more  probable,  and  in- 
deed quite  evident,  that  the  old  house  does  not  antedate  the 
first  quarter  of  the  eighteenth  century. 


house  —  a  modern  addition,  and  an  innovation  wiiich  must 
add  greatly  to  the  comfort  of  the  place. 

The  old  colonists  were  rather  too  orthodox  in  their  careful 
imitation  of  the  English  models  after  which  they  built,  and 
they  used  many  features  which,  thougli  quite  appropriate  in 
the  climate  of  the  mother  country,  must  have  made  their 
homes  upon  the  lower  James  decidedly  uncomfortable  in  the 
fervid  summer  heat  of  that  favored  region.  In  our  own  day 
no  one  would  forego,  in  a  country  house,  the  indispensable 
luxury  of  a  generous  veranda  for  the  sake  of  an  academic 
exactitude  in  style,  but  in  the  majority  of  the  earlier  colonial 
houses  there  was  nothing  to  shelter  the  walls  from  the 
noonday  glare.  Perhaps  in  point  of  greater  adaptability  to 
conditions  and  circumstances  our  later  methods  are  truer,  in 
this  respect  at  least. 

The  wood-work  of  the  interior  of  ]5erkeley  is  simple  but 
good.  The  frieze  and  cornice  in  tlie  principal  rooms  are 
ver)  refined,  and  the  parlor  contains  a  very  graceful  mantel; 
the  treatment  of  the   arch  on  either   side  of  the  chimney 


40 


THE    GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


breast  in  this  room  is  also  wortii  studying.  Berkeley  has  not 
been  well  kept  up.  It  has  passed  out  of  the  hands  of  the 
descendants  of  its  founders,  the  Harrisons  of  Berkeley,  and 
has  in  consequence  suffered  many  changes. 

"Of  all  the  ancient  families  in  the  colony,"  says  Griggsby, 
"  that  of  Harrison,  if  not  the  oldest,  is  one  of  the  oldest. 
The  original  ancestor,  some  time  before  the  year  1645,  had 
come  over  to  the  colony ;  but  as  his  name  does  not  appear 
in  the  list  of  early  patentees  recorded  by  Burk  it  is  probable 
that  he  purchased  land  already  patented  or  may  have  en- 
gaged in  mercantile  pursuits.  The  first  born  of  the  name  in 
the  colony  of  whom  we  have  any  distinct  record  was  Benja- 
min Harrison,  who  became  a  member  of  the  Council  and  was 
speaker  of  the  House  of  Burgesses,  and  died  in  the  South- 
wark  Parish,  in  the  County  of  Surrey,  in  the  year  17  [2,  in 
his  sixty-second  year."  Mr.  Griggsby  thinks  it  probable  that 
his  father  was  the  Herman  Harrison  who  came  over  in  what 
is  called  in  Smith's  History  "the  second  supply,"  or  Master 
John  Harrison,  who  was  Governor  in  1623,  and  adds  "  that 
from  the  year  1645  to  this  date  —  a  period  of  more  than  two 
centuries  —  the  name  has  been  distinguished  for  the  patriot- 
ism, the  intelligence,  and  the  moral  worth  of  those  who  have 
borne  it." 

Of  the  Benjamin  Harrison  of  Surrey,  born  in  Southwark 
Parish  in  1645,  ^"  epitaph  declares :  "  Here  lieth  the  body  of 
the  Honorable  Benjamin  Harrison,  Esquire,  who  did  justice, 
loved  mercy,  and  walked  humbly  with  his  God,  was  always 
loyal  to  his  Prince  and  a  great  benefactor  to  his  country.'' 

The  first  of  the  name  was  a  zealous  friend  of  the  church 
and  a  liberal  contributor,  his  posterity  have  ever  continued 
true  to  it,  and  the  last  two  inembers,  with  their  families,  have 
done  much  to  its  partial  revival  within  the  last  forty  years. 
The  ministers  have  ever  found  their  seats  to  be  hospitable 
homes  when  in  that  part  of  the  parish.  They  have  set  good 
examples  in  the  religious  teaching  of  their  servants,  and  in 
order  to  promote  this,  have  built  a  chapel  between  them  for 
the  especial  benefit  of  the  same. 


dull  red  of  the  old  English  brick  is  just  apparent  in  a  sub- 
dued glow  of  color.  On  the  edge  of  the  trees  there  is  a 
perfect  village  of  out-buildings,  barns,  stables,  cow  houses, 
corn  cribs,  the  smithy,  the  chicken-house,  the  dairy  and  in- 


r--.- ^ 


WESTOVER. 

Looking  across  the  level  fields  from  the  generous  veranda 
of  Berkeley,  the  eye  seeks  out  a  group  of  tall  trees,  not  far 


Back  Gate,  Westo 


off  upon  the  river  side.  Through  the  interlacing  limbs  and 
branches,  bare  in  the  late  November  days,  one  makes  out 
the  solid  bulk  of  a  great  square  building  with  steep  roof 
and  tall  chimneys  towering  up  among  the  tree-tops.     The 


■  -^ 

^H 

■ 

■■■■ 

H 

1 

1 

1 

1 

^^^K     ' 

:        i     '^ 

^S? 

-  ! 

\..\ 

P 

^^j^^ 

j  -  ■ 

1 

ll 

i 

>J^H| 

1 

( 

The  Staircase-tiall  :     Westover. 

numerable  smaller  structures.  A  road  winds  across  the 
farm-lands  toward  the  buildings.  It  is  the  old  manor-house 
of  Westover,  standing  proudly  beneath  its  ancestral  oaks. 

From  the  broad,  smooth  lawn  which  runs  to  the  river  bank 
on  the  south  side  of  the  house,  one  is  impressed  with  the 
simple  grandeur  of  the  front.  The  brick  walls  are  two 
stories  in  height,  with  a  generous  base,  and  fitly  crowned 
with  a  fine  sweep  of  roof.  The  only  bit  of  e.xterior  detail 
making  the  least  pretension  to  richness  is  about  the  door- 
way, which  is  flanked  by  broad,  fluted  pilasters  surmounted 
by  richly-carved  Corinthian  capitals,  and  crowned  by  the 
broken  pediment  so  much  u.sed  in  the  architecture  of  that 
day.  The  rest  is  but  plain  brick  wall,  pierced,  in  absolute 
regularity,  with  windows.  On  the  left,  or  west,  is  a  low  wing 
containing  the  kitchen,  and  joined  to  the  house  by  a  covered 
way.  Beyond  is  another  out-building,  and,  farther  on,  the 
eye  follows  an  old  box-hedge  bordering  the  generous  stretch 
of  the  gardens. 

A  broad  and  easy  flight  of  stone  steps,  much  worn  and 
chipped  and  stained  by  time,  leads  up  to  the  door,  and,  look- 
ing in  through  the  open  portal,  one  sees  a  great  hall  with 
stone  floor  and  panelled  walls,  and  a  splendid  stairway  in 
rich  old  black  mahogany,  ascending  by  easy  stages  to  the 
upper  apartments.  Everywhere  there  is  breadth,  simplicity, 
elegance,  in  the  aspect  of  the  interior.  The  state-rooms  open 
out  of  this  great  hall,  which,  by  the  way,  has  a  door  opposite 
the  one  just  described.  This  door  gives  upon  the  rear,  or 
garden,  side  of  the  house.  There  is  a  gravel  walk  running 
straight  down  to  the  gates,  which  are  of  wrought-iron  tracery 
quite  good  in  design.  The  gate-posts  are  surmounted  by  a 
couple  of  eagles  made  up  of  wood  and  tin  in  quite  a  fearful 
and  wonderful  way,  and  wearing,  in  truth,  a  very  dingy  and 
dejected  air.  Presutnably,  these  birds  have  succeeded  a  pair 
of  eagles  in  bronze,  doubtless  heraldic  emblems  of  the 
family  of  Byrd.  Upon  this  I  am,  however,  without  definite 
knowledge,  never  having  had  the  luck  to  come  across  a  book- 
plate or  crest  of  the  founder  of  Westover. 

There  seems  to  me  always  something  very  satisfying  in  the 
effect  of  one  of  these  old  colonial  rooms.  In  the  first  place, 
they  are  generally,  as  at  Westover,  square  in  shape,  and  with 
good  proportions  of  height  of  walls  to  floor-area.     The  eye 


WESTOVER. 


41 


rests  with  quiet  pleasure  on  the  low,  plain  dado,  with  low 
base  and  surbase  of  simple  mouldings,  not  seldom  enriched 
with  some  flutings  or  other  carved  work.  Above  this,  the 
walls  are  covered  with  wood-work  in  large  panels  defined  by 
rails  and  styles  of  good  width,  the  whole  surmounted  by  a 
good  frieze  and  rich  cornice  projecting  well  upon  the  ceiling. 

The  ceilings  are  generally  whitewashed,  but  frequently 
enriched  with  exceedingly  delicate  and  graceful  relief-work 
in  plaster.  The  whitewash  is  not  seldom  the  expression  of 
some  modern  housewife's  ill-directed  efforts  at  neatness. 
At  Mount  Vernon,  they  found  under  the  scales  of  lime  in 
one  of  the  smaller  rooms  a  ceiling  tinted  in  a  soft  tan  color, 
upon  which  the  rayons  of  plaster-of-Paris  or  putty  in  half- 
relief  are  charmingly  brought  out.  The  pictures  of  the 
drawing-room  at  Shirley  will  present  all  this  I  have  been 
trying  to  describe  about  as  wells  as  views  of  any  other  house 
in  Virginia.  It  is  veritably  a  charming  old  house.  The 
same  treatment  of  interior  is  found  at  Westover. 

There  in  the  great  panels  hang  the  ancestors,  looking 
blandly  forth  from 
their  ancient  can- 
vases, the  sheen  of 
their  silks  somewhat 
dulled  and  the  bloom 
of  their  snowy  necks 
a  trifle  faded,  per- 
haps, and  with  a  fine 
crackle  over  the  sur- 
face, but  showing  an 
added  depth  in  the 
tones  of  velvets  and 
of  the  sombre  back- 
grounds in  which 
they  have  gained  in 
suggestiveness  more 
than  has  been  lost 
in  clearness  of  detail 
and  brilliancy  of 
color.  Westover 
possesses  many  well- 
nigh  inestimable 
treasures  of  this  sort. 
Its  walls  are  en- 
riched with  the  work 
of  many  a  famous  hand.  There  is  an  authentic  Sir  Godfrey 
Kneller,  and  even  a  Van  Dyck.  There  are  two  Knellers,  in 
fact,  the  portraits  of  William  Byrd  and  his  daughter  Evelyn. 

"  Byrd  of  Westover  "  was  a  great  gentleman,  and  while  he 
was  in  London  he  cut  a  notable  figure,  as  indeed  he  did  also 
at  the  court  of  France.  And  among  the  noblemen  whom  he 
made  his  friends  there  was  one,  young  Lord  Peterboro',  of  a 
distinguished  Roman  Catholic  family,  who  would  have  made 
sweet  Evelyn  his  lady  had  not  that  irascible  old  Protestant, 
Colonel  Byrd,  who  firmly  opposed  the  match  from  the  first, 
hurried  the  girl  across  the  seas  to  Westover,  and  there  shut 
her  up,  to  die,  the  legend  hath  it,  of  a  broken  heart  —  or  of 
boredom,  perhaps  —  for  to  a  London-bred  girl  and  one  ac- 
customed to  the  splendors  of  the  Court  circle  of  England,  it 
may  have  been,  at  times,  a  trifle  dull  at  this  grand  old  home 
of  her  father's  on  the  River  James.  Fancy  that  there  were 
no  roads  of  a  passable  character  in  those  days,  and  that  the 
gentry  went  about  to  one  another's  houses  in  pinnaces  and 
rowboats,  and  also  that  in  the  sparsely  settled  country  there 
were  but  a  handful  of  people  within  reach  of  Westover,  and 
one  can  readily  believe  that  those  were  dreary  days  for  the 
poor  child  so  cruelly  torn  from  the  arms  of  her  lover,  and 


Westover. 


from  the  friendships  of  her  youth.  Her  tomb  is  there  in  the 
garden  near-by  among  other  monuments.  There  was  a 
chapel  there  in  Evelyn's  time,  rebuilt  afterward  at  Evelynton. 
In  the  third  Colonel  Byrd's  time  the  incumbent  of  West- 
over  church  was  one  Dunbar,  who  has  left  behind  him  the 
record  of  a  life  of  not  unquestionable  saintliness.  He  was 
indeed,  even  in  those  hard-drinking,  free  days,  notorious  as 
a  drunkard  and  gambler.  He  carried  a  message  once  from 
Benjamin  Harrison  of  Berkeley  to  Benjamin  Harrison  of 
Brandon.  What  was  the  cause  of  disagreement  between 
those  distinguished  gentlemen,  and  whatever  came  of  it 
is  not  clearly  set  forth,  but  the  point  is  —  and  I  think  it  is 
Bishop  Meade  who  tells  the  story  —  the  cartel  was  delivered 
through  the  kind  offices  of  the  parson.  He  was  himself  one 
of  the  principals  in  a  duel  growing  out  of  a  disputed  bet  — 
upon  a  horse-race  —  and  he  is  said  to  have  wounded  his 
adversary. 

The  first  Colonel  Byrd  was  the  author  of  the  ^''  Byrd  Manu- 
script" an  unpublished  memoir  which  has  the  distinction  of 

being  the  only  exist- 
ing literary  relic  of 
early  Colonial  times 
in  Virginia.  He  was 
the  founder  of  Rich- 
mond and  of  Peters- 
burg. His  heir,  the 
second  Colonel  Wil- 
liam Byrd,  of  West- 
over,  greatly  in- 
creased the  extent 
of  the  estate  by  the 
acquisition  of  great 
bodies  of  land  in 
Virginia  and  North 
Carolina. 

This  gentleman 
was  educated  in 
England,  and  after- 
ward lived  at  West- 
over  in  the  same 
princely  state  as  did 
his  father  before 
him.  The  house 
was  famous  for  hos- 
pitality and  good  cheer,  nor  has  it  yet  forgotten  to  exercise, 
as  of  old,  these  generous  qualities.  Tiie  life  was  that  of  the 
landed  gentry  of  Mother  England.  Culture  and  refinement 
in  a  high  degree  must  have  been  the  characteristics  of  the 
builders  and  dwellers  of  these  fine  old  manors. 

There  is  a  restful,  simple  dignity  about  them,  unspeakably 
grateful  to  the  modern  observer  weary  at  heart  of  tiie  turgid 
over-decoration  of  the  interiors  of  our  great  houses  of  to-day. 
There  is  reserve  in  the  old  work.  There  are  broad,  plain 
surfaces  where  the  imagination  reposes  comfortably.  Deco- 
ration is  focussed,  not  spread  lavishly  over  everything. 
Perhaps  the  frieze  of  a  mantel,  very  richly  and  delicately 
carved,  or  an  elaborated  entablature  crowning  the  architrave 
of  a  doorway,  gives  the  centre,  the  keynote,  of  the  room. 
Nothing  is  forced.  Odd  effects  are  not  sought.  The  result 
is  restful,  refined,  satisfying.  The  aim  of  all  good  work 
should  be  to  reach  something  of  this  sort,  not  necessarily 
following  the  model  with  too  much  servility,  but  certainly 
always  holding  the  hand,  leaving  something  undone,  avoiding 
a  too-startling  originality. 

The  art  that  can  stir  the  imagination  and  move  the  soul 
by  simple  means  is  great  art. 


42 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


But  I  am  forgetting  that  there  is  yet  another  Colonel  Byrd 
to  be  disposed  of,  and  it  will  be  remarked  that  the  rank  of 
colonel  seems  to  have  been  an  inheritance  pertaining  to 
the  firstborn  male  child  of  a  Byrd  of  Westover.  It  was, 
perhaps,  entailed  with  the  estates. 

The  third  William  Byrd  was  born  in  1728,  and  in  1737  the 
present  manor  of  Westover  was  built.  He  entered  into  en- 
joyment of  his  estates  in  the  year  1744.  He  saw  service 
during  the  French  and  Indian  wars,  and  was  at  Fort  Cumber- 
land with  George  Washington  in  August,  1758,  in  command 
of  a  regiment  of  Virginia  volunteers.  He  took  unto  wife 
Elizabeth  Heil  Carter,  of  the  neighboring  manor  of  Shirley, 
and  subsequently,  upon  the  demise  of  this  estimable  lady, 
was  married  to  Mistress  Mary  Willing,  of  Pliiladelphia.by 
whom  he  had  eight  children,  three  of  whom  in  due  time 
married  members  of  the  Har- 
rison family,  one  a  Page,  one  a 
Nelson  and  one  a  Meade. 

The  Colonel  lived  much 
abroad,  and  was  a  man  of  fash- 
ion in  the  London  of  his  day. 
Rather  recklessly  indulgent  of 
his  gambling  proclivities,  he 
left  his  estate  in  debt  when  he 
died  in  1777. 

The  widow  Jived  until  the 
year  18 14.  She  has  been  ac- 
cused of  plotting  to  assist  Ar- 
nold, and  letters  from  her  were, 
in  fact,  found  aboard  one  of  his 
vessels  which  got  aground  in 
the  river  and  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  patriots.  At  her 
death,  Westover  passed  away 
from  the  family  of  the  founder. 


%.^ 


NORFOLK. 

In  the  course  of  our  wander- 
ings we  had  come  down  to  old 
Norfolk  town  to  hunt  up  such 
bits  of  the  Colonial  work  as 
had,  perchance,  survived  the 
march  of  progress  and  the  de- 
stroying hand  of  time,  that  de- 
vourer  of  things,  in  the  ancient 
borough.  We  had  known  that  the  place  was  old,  as  antiquity 
goes  in  America,  its  existence  running  as  far  back  as  the  year 
1682,  in  which  far-away  time  the  site  was  chosen  on  the 
spot  where,  a  hundred  years  before,  there  had  gleamed  the 
wigwams  of  a  large  village  of  the  Chesapeake  Indians. 

In  the  year  1585  Captain  Ralph  Lane  had  reached  this 
point  in  his  exploration  of  the  country  to  the  northward  of 
Roanoke  Island,  on  whose  sandy  shores  had  landed  a  de- 
tachment of  the  Sir  Richard  Greville  expedition,  sent  out 
by  the  great  Raleigh  to  finally  struggle  to  this  haven,  after 
suffering  hardships  unnumbered  and  a  long  chapter  of 
"moving  accidents  by  flood  and  field." 

Nearly  a  century  had  rolled  away  into  the  mists  since  that 
portentous  landing  on  a  low,  marshy  island  in  yellow  Pow- 
hatan, in  1607,  of  Captain  John  Smith  and  his  band  of  ad- 
venturers, and  the  growing  port  had  assumed  such  impor- 
tance as  to  warrant  a  formal  establishment  by  an  Act  of 
the  Colonial   Legislature  at  Williamsburg,  approved  by  llie 


The  Parlor  Chimneypiece:    Westover, 


brilliant  Spotswood  in  1705.  In  1736  a  Royal  Charter  was 
granted  to  the  Borough  of  Norfolk  under  the  hand  and  seal 
of  the  last  Sovereign  of  the  House  of  Stuart,  Queen  Anne. 

It  was  the  sole  seaport  of  the  great  colony  of  Virginia,  and 
there  had  grown  up  a  considerable  commerce  upon  which  the 
•  subsequent  substantial  prosperity  of  the  town  was  builded. 
In  1728  the  little  town  was  already  become  "the  most  city- 
like town  in  Virginia."  This  was  in  the  reign  of  the  second 
George,  "  the  most  prosperous  period,"  says  Hallam,  "  that 
England  had  ever  known,"  and  in  the  golden  days  of  Hume, 
Smollett,  Harry  Fielding,  Doctor  Samuel  Johnson,  Pope, 
Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  Sir  Christopher  Wren.  Keeping  pace 
with  the  growth  of  the  colony,  the  town  was  waxing  rich  and 
great. 

In  1769  the  imports  of  Virginia,  passing  through  the  port 

of  Norfolk,  amounted  to  as 
much  as  eight  hundred  and 
fifty-one  thousand  pounds  sterl- 
ing. In  1776  the  population 
numbered  about  six  thousand 
souls,  and  Norfolk  was  a  city 
of  prosperous  merchants, 
"  many  of  whom  possessed 
affluent  fortunes,"  albeit  the 
affluence  of  the  day  was  ex- 
pressed in  figures  which  would 
represent  a  very  modest  com- 
petence ill  our  times.  In  that 
disastrous  year,  however,  the 
War  of  Independence  had  be- 
gun, and  the  fortunes  of  Nor- 
folk received  a  terrible  check 
in  the  bombardment  by  the 
fleet  of  Lord  Dunmore,  the  last 
of  the  Royal  governors,  dis- 
lodged by  the  rebels  from  his 
palace  at  Williamsburg  and 
smarting  to  avenge  his  recent 
discomfiture  at  Great  Bridge. 
The  great  warehouses  and 
stores  of  the  place,  filled  with 
the  riches  of  the  West  Indian 
and  Colonial  trade,  went  up  in 
the  flames,  together  with  the 
elegant  mansions  of  the  wealthy 
merchants  and  the  humbler 
homes  of  the  townsfolk.  The 
loss  of  property  amounted  to 
upward  of  three  hundred  thousand  pounds  sterling,  and 
great  distress  ensued,  the  fortunes  of  the  town  only  begin- 
ning to  recover  from  the  blow  toward  the  close  of  the  war. 

There  remains  to-day,  therefore,  very  little  of  the  old  work 
worth  studying. 

Almost  the  only  public  building  of  any  consequence  to 
escape  the  general  ruin  was  the  parish  church,  built  in  1739, 
now  Saint  Paul's,  the  chief  Episcopal  church  in  Norfolk. 

The  old  church  itself  is  of  small  interest  externally,  and, 
besides,  the  original  interior  finish  was  destroyed  by  fire 
long  ago.  We  had  expected  to  find  in  the  gates  of  the  wall 
enclosing  the  yard  some  remnant  of  good  old  wrought-iron 
work,  but  on  examination  were  forced  to  set  them  down  as 
somewhat  common-place  and  uninteresting.  Inside  the 
gates,  however,  the  ancient  City  of  the  Dead,  about  two  acres 
in  area,  is  very  beautiful.  Here  and  there  among  the  shrub- 
bery one  stops  to  make  out  the  nearly  elTaced  inscriptions  of 
an  old  headstone.     There  are  no  tombs,  however,  so  rich  in 


NORFOLK. 


43 


design  or  in  carvings  of  mortuary  emblem  and  heraldic  device 
as  those  we  sketched  in  the  shady  yard  of  old  Bruton  Parish  : 
the  honest  burghers  of  Norfolk  sleep  in  less  pomp  and  state 
than  the  grandees  of  the  old  Colonial  capital. 

The  church  is  disappointing  from  an  architectural  point- 
of-view,  and  is  only  saved  from  ugliness  by  the  rich  masses 
of  ivy  clinging  to  its  walls.  The  verger  pointed  out 
the  date,  1739,  cut  in  the  bricks,  with  the  letters  S.  B., 
presumably  meaning  St. 
Bride's,  the  original  title  of 
the  parish. 

Set  as  a  panel  in  the  outer 
wall  is  an  ancient  headstone 
from  Wyanoke-on-the-James, 
bearing  the  date  1637,  and 
high  up  in  one  corner,  just 
under  the  cornice,  a  well-rusted 
cannon-ball  is  half  embedded 
in  the  bricks,  fired  from  one 
of  Dunmore's  ships  on  the 
night  of  the  bombardment.  In- 
side the  church  there  is  not 
much  to  see.  Architecturally, 
indeed,  the  interior  is  devoid 
of  interest. 

Rambling  about  among  the 
older  streets,  one  is  halted 
here  and  there  by  the  discovery  of  a  fairly  good  bit  of  old 
work,  a  doorway,'  perhaps,  the  portico  enclosed  with  wrought- 
iron  railings  of  simple  forms,  set  between  gracefully-tapering 
fluted  columns  which  support  the  shingled  roof,  the  small 
gable  or  pediment,  displaying  often  some  detail  of  delicate 
beauty,  and  the  broad,  panelled  door,  flanked  by  carved 
pilasters,  a  good  fan-light  filling  the  round  arch  above,  the 
wood-work  in  old  white,  the  door  of  sombre  green,  from  which 
gleam  the  polished  brasses  of  knocker  and  knob. 

The  house  we  have  chosen  for  illustration  is  by  far  the 
most  interesting  ex- 
ample of  Georgian 
work  to  be  found  in 
Norfolk,  and  though 
built  at  the  close  of 
the  war,  it  is  dis- 
tinctly in  the  style 
in  its  very  complet- 
est  development.  It 
stands  upon  the  cor- 
ner of  Freemason 
and  Bank  Streets, 
and  is  a  charming 
old  bit  of  architect- 
ure, well  kept  up  and 
intelligently  guarded 
from  modernizing  in- 
novations by  the  ap- 
preciative good  taste 
of  the  owners,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Barton  Myersi  'Die  walls  are 
laid  up  in  Flemish  bond  in  coarse,  large  bricks,  which  were 
doubtless  moulded  near-by.  The  joints  are  coarse.  The 
window-heads  are  reinforced  with  flat  arches  of  cut  stone  vous- 
soirs.  The  sills  are  of  wood.  The  portico  is  all  in  wood,  ex- 
cept platform  and  steps,  which  are  of  marble.  All  wood-work 
outside,  except  the  mahogany  doors,  is  painted  white. 

1  Plate  21,  Part  VI. 

'We  have  held  our  forms  beyond  the  '•  last  moment,"  hopinj^  to 
secure   certain   promised    detailed    information    concerning   tliese 


The  hall  is  large  and  imposing,  showing  a  very  beautiful 
frieze  and  cornice,  and  an  effective  ceiling  decoration  of 
plaster  in  half-relief.  The  staircase  is  broad,  but  plainly 
treated.  There  is  a  graceful  mantel  in  the  parlor,  rich  in 
carving.  The  floors  throughout  the  house  are  noticeably 
hard,  smooth  and  well-preserved.  They  are  in  quartered 
oak,  about  four  inches  wide. 

The  dining-room,  opening  out  of   the  parlor,  is   a  great, 

generous  room  and  full  of  light. 


■^^^^^KHWKSf^r^ 

^n^^. 

■^ 

.^^^ 

^n^ir^yiB^' 

■  "■'■  ^^2 

^t^^: 

.1.  iij 

"'-•   -"^  V*    '^ 

^«  iP^^  ■ 

*  Oatlands,"  Loudoun  County,  Va.' 


'  Sabine  Hall,"  Kichmond  County,  Va. 


The  octagonal  end,  pierced 
with  three  ample  windows,  be- 
neath which  a  seat  runs,  gives 
character  to  the  stately  room. 
In  two  wide  but  shallow  re- 
cesses over  which  the  plaster 
forms  a  round  arch  stand  a 
pair  of  richly  blackened  ma- 
hogany sideboards,  hearing  a 
great  wealth  of  handsome  old 
silver  and  cut-glass.  At  the 
end  opposite  the  windows  is  the 
fireplace,  which  has  a  facing 
of  white  marble  pilasters  sur- 
mounted by  three  panels,  those 
at  the  ends  having  heads  carved 
upon  them,  aijd  that  in  the 
centre  a  reclining  female  figure. 
There  is  no  shelf,  and  this  facing  is  low. 

All  the  heavy  interior  doors  are  made  in  six  panels,  and 
are  painted  in  a  dark  tint,  upon  which  the  great  shining  brass 
rim-locks,  with  quaint  and  graceful  drop-handles,  shine  out 
with  rich  effect. 

The  dado  in  the  hall  and  principal  rooms  is  about  two 
feet  six  inches  high,  without  panels.  The  baseboard  is  four 
inches  high,  painted  black  and  finished  with  a  moulding  in 
white,  about  two  inches  high.  The  cap  of  the  dado  is  about 
two  inches  deep,  including  a  frieze  of  delicate  flutes.     The 

casings  of  doors  and 
windows  are  about 
four-and- one-half 
inches  wide,  and  are 
noticeable  for  a  deli- 
cate little  rounding 
dentiform  member. 

The  ample  hall 
extends  across  the 
end  of  the  house  full 
width  on  the  first  and 
second  floors,  the 
stairs  swinging  up 
across  one  end  of 
it.  Beside  the  front 
door,  which  opens 
in  the  middle  of  the 
facade,  there  is  a 
door  giving  upon  the 
garden,  under  the  stairs,  and,  in  the  opposite  end  of  the 
oblong,  another  opening  upon  the  side  street.  Doors  open 
directly  into  the  parlor  and  library,  which  together  occupy 
the  full  width  of  the  house.  It  is  my  impression  that  there 
is  no  door  between  these  rooms. 

There  is  a  door  on  either  side  of  the  parlor  fireplace  opening 

houses  which  are  said  to  be  both  architecturally  and  historically 
interesting.  We  only  know  that  they  are  botli  Carter  places. 
'I'hev  serve  a  certain  pur])ose,  however,  in  s'lowing  additional 
samples  of  late  Soutliern  Colonial  work.  —  Ed. 


44 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


ing  into  the  great  dining-room  already  described,  and  from 
the  library  there  is  an  inferior  passageway  to  the  dining- 
room  also,  but  I  think  that  this  is  really  a  sort  of  pantry,  and 
that  the  only  way  to  the  dining-room  is  through  the  parlor. 
The  plan  upstairs  is  about  the  same,  except  that  from  the 
hall,  which  swings  across  the  whole  front,  there  leads  off  at 
right  angles  a  passageway,  on  either  side  of  which  are  the 
chambers.  In  some  of  these  there  are  rich  woodwork  and 
decorative  plaster  relievos. 

MOUNT  VERNON. 

Of  the  small  house  on  the  Potomac  in  Westmoreland 
County  where  Washington  was  born,  on  the  nth  (old  style) 
of  February,  1731  only  enough  remains  to  point  out  the 
actual  site. 

From  the  year  1742  until  the  end,  the  life  of  Washing- 
ton is  closely  associated  with  Mount  Vernon.  His  father, 
Augustine  Washington,  dying  in  1743,  left  the  estate  of 
Hunting  Creek,  near  Alexandria,  to  Lawrence,  a  son  by  his 
first  wife,  and  George  Washington's  half  brother.  Lawrence 
Washington  held  a  Captain's  commission  in  the  joint  expedi- 
tion of  General  Wentworth  and  Admiral  Vernon  against 
Carthagena,  which  ended  in  disaster  to  the  British  arms. 
Lawrence  had,  however,  gained  the  friendship  of  the  two 
commanders  and  corresponded,  for  some  years  afterward, 
with  Admiral  Vernon,  in  whose  honor  he  named  his  seat  on 
the  Potomac.  The  estate  contained  several  hundred  acres, 
lying  along  the  Potomac  and  bordering  tlie  lands  of  the 
Fairfaxes  and  Masons,  and  here  Lawrence  Washington  after 
his  marriage  with  Anne  Fairfax  resided  continuously. 

Beautifully  situated  on  the  brow  of  an  eminence  which 
sweeps  down  in  a  wooded  slope  to  a  bluff  upon  the  river, 
his  house  stands  about  one  hundred  feet  above  the  water. 
It  now  forms  the  central  portion,  or  body,  of  the  Mount 
Vernon  mansion,  the  wings  having  been  added  by  George 
Washington  at  the  close  of  the  War  of  the  Revolution.  It 
was  unpretentious,  as  compared  with  the  manorial  seats  of 
the  great  planters  on  the  James  River,  and  elsewhere  in  Vir- 
ginia, but  was  none  the  less  evidently  the  home  of  a  gentlfe- 
man  of  the  first  social  importance.  This  was  the  home  of 
Washington's  boyhood.  His  elder  brother  filled  the  place 
of  father  to  him.  At  "  Belvoir,"  the  seat  of  the  Fairfaxes, 
whose  great  estates  were  managed  for  Lord  Fairfax,  absent 
in  England,  by  his  cousin,  the  father-in-law  of  Lawrence, 
George  was  ever  on  terms  of  affectionate  intimacy.  And 
when  the  Lord  Fairfax,  weary  of  the  world  and  its  falsities, 
among  which  rumor  hath  it  he  had  found  that  cruellest 
deceit  of  all,  a  lovely  jilt,  came  over  to  live  upon  his  great 
Virginia  possessions,  the  boy  Washington  soon  won  his  close 
friendship  and  profited  greatly  in  the  forming  of  his  character 
by  his  intimacy  with  that  eccentric  but  high-minded  nobleman. 

Deciding  to  dive  deeper  into  the  wilderness  and  to  make 
his  home  upon  his  estates  beyond  the  Blue  Ridge,  Lord  Fair- 
fax took  the  boy  of  sixteen  with  him  to  survey  his  great  lands 
in  that  region,  a  work  which  gave  him  three  years  of  rough 
and  stirring  frontier  life,  and  built  up  in  him  a  self-reliance 
upon  which  he  drew  largely  in  the  great  events  of  after  years. 
Washington  often  subsequently  visited  the  lonely  old  lord  at 
his  lodge  "  Greenway  Court  "  near  the  Shenandoah,  where  he 
lived  a  recluse  among  his  dogs  and  hunters  and  Indians,  and 
this  confidential  intercourse  with  a  man  trained  in  the  ele- 
gancies of  the  aristocratic  old  world,  a  man  of  parts  who 
knew  the  wits  of  his  day,  Addison  and  Steele,  and  the  rest  of 


them,  and  who  had  even  contributed  to  letters  an  occasional 
paper  in  the  "  Spectator"  had  an  effect  upon  the  young  ex^ 
panding  mind  which  is  plain  to  read  in  his  career,  and  served 
also  to  cement  a  warm  and  lasting  regard  between  these 
strangely  mated  friends. 

Lawrence  Washington  was  a  personage  in  the  Colony. 
His  house  and  that  of  Belvoir  were  much  visited  by  people 
of  distinction  from  the  mother  country,  officers  of  the  army 
and  navy,  and  travellers  of  note. 

Lawrence  died  in  1751,  leaving  Mount  Vernon  to  his 
daughter,  with  George  Washington  as  executor  and  residuary 
legatee.  This  child  lived  only  a  short  time.  Washington 
thus  became  the  owner  of  Mount  Vernon,  and  of  a  con- 
siderable estate  which  placed  him  in  the  list  of  the  wealthier 
planters  of  Virginia.  He  had  become  already  a  distin- 
guished figure  in  the  public  eye  when  he  gave  Mount  Vernon 
its  mistress  in  January,  1759.  The  marriage  took  place  at 
the  White  House,  in  Kent  County,  near  Williamsburg,  where 
Washington  was  then  in  attendance  as  member  of  the  House 
of  Burgesses.  At  the  close  of  the  session  he  took  his  wife 
and  her  two  children,  John  Parke  Custis  and  Martha  Parke 
Custis,  to  Mt.  Vernon. 

At  this  time  Washington  wrote  to  his  friend  Richard 
Washington  in  London  :  "  I  am  now,  I  believe,  fixed  in  this 
seat  with  an  agreeable  partner  for  life,  and  I  hope  to  find 
more  happiness  in  retirement  than  I  ever  experienced  in  the 
wide  and  bustling  world." 

He  was  in  his  twenty-seventh  year,  a  tall  man,  6  feet 
2  inches,  well  formed  and  featured,  as  we  know,  in  superb 
health  and  with  an  ample  fortune  of  his  own,  to  which  the 
Widow  Custis  brought  very  considerable  additions  in  bonds 
and  certificates  of  deposit  in  the  Bank  of  England.  She  was 
handsome,  intelligent,  vivacious,  the  richest  woman  in  Vir- 
ginia, and  three  years  his  senior.  Washington  described 
Mount  Vernon  of  that  day  as  follows:  "A  high,  healthy 
country,  in  a  latitude  between  the  extremes  of  cold  and  heat, 
on  one  of  the  finest  rivers  in  the  world.  .  .  .  The  borders  of 
the  estate  are  washed  by  more  than  ten  miles  of  tide-water; 
several  valuable  fisheries  appertain  to  it ;  the  whole  shore,  in 
fact,  is  one  entire  fishery."  The  house  was,  as  Lawrence 
Washington  left  it,  a  two-storied  building  with  a  portico 
toward  the  river.  The  principal  floor  was  divided  into  four 
rooms  bisected  by  a  wide  hall  ;  there  was  a  chimney  at  each 
end  of  the  house,  which  was  otherwise  provided  with  the 
usual  arrangements  of  the  day. 

Washington  ordered  some  new  furniture  from  England. 
He  had  out,  also,  clothes,  books,  etc.,  from  London.  He 
had  good  horses  and  dogs,  whose  names  appear  in  the 
household  books  which  he  regularly  kept.  At  this  time  he 
rode  a  good  deal  to  hounds  with  his  neighbors,  the  Fairfaxes, 
Masons,  Thurstons  and  others.  He  appeared  abroad  gen- 
erally on  horseback  and  attended  by  his  "body-servant," 
Bishop,  in  scarlet  livery.  Washington's  good  horsemanship 
was  another  benefit  from  his  early  association  with  Lord 
Fairfax.  He  was  regularly  at  the  meets  of  the  Belvoir  pack 
when  his  lordship  was  Master  of  Hounds,  and  Fairfax  took 
pains  to  correct  his  seat  and  show  him  how  to  "  ride  straight," 
as  they  say  in  the  hunting-field. 

On  Sundays  the  family  drove  to  Pohick  Church  in  a 
chariot  and  four,  handsomely  trapped  and  well  cared  for,  with 
negro  postilions  in  livery.  He  had  a  barge  on  the  river, 
with  a  black  crew  in  his  colors.  "Mount  Vernon,"  "Gunston 
Hall"  and  "Belvoir"  were  then  the  social  centres  of  the 
region,  and  their  masters  maintained  a  certain  state. 

As  Washington  remained  for  fifteen  years  a  member  of 
the  Virginia  House  of  Burgesses,  the  family  was  much  at 


MOUNT   VERNON. 


45- 


Williamsburg.  There  were  also  visits  to  Annapolis.  When 
at  home  Washington  looked  after  his  farms  and  affairs.  We 
have  his  methodically-kept  accounts  and  his  diary  covering 
forty  years. 

An  early  riser,  he  was  accustomed  to  visit  his  stables  and 
to  spend  some  time  in  his  library  before  breakfast.  In  1768, 
he  counts  loi  cows  on  the  estate.  He  daily  rode  about  his 
lands  unattended,  directing  everything.  The  farms  were 
well  kept  up  and  productive.  Wheat  and  tobacco  were  his 
main  crops.  He  was  then  farming  upwards  of  four  thousand 
acres.  He  sent  wheat  and  tobacco  from  his  own  wharf  to 
England  and  West  Indian  ports. 

In  1774,  Washington  left  Mount  Vernon  with  Lee  and 
Pendleton  for  Philadelphia.  William  Fairfax  was  in  England, 
never  to  return.  Belvoir  was  burned.  Unrest  was  abroad 
in  the  land.  Great  events  were  pending.  From  '74  to  '83, 
when  he  retired  from  the  Army,  Washington  was  at  Mount 
Vernon  very  seldom,  and  never  for  longer  than  a  few  weeks, 
or,  more  frequently,  days  at  a  time.  During  this  period  Mrs. 
Washington  usually  wintered  with  her  husband  in  camp, 
returning  home  with  the  spring.  John  Parke  Custis,  by  this 
time  provided  with  a  wife  and  young  family,  lived  at  Mount 
Vernon  for  the  seven  years  of  the  War,  Lund  Washington, 
a  relative,  managing  the  place  during  this  time. 

Lord  Dunmore  came  up  the  river,  in  1775,  to  capture  the 
wife  and  destroy  the 
property  of  Washing- 
ton, but  was  inter- 
cepted by  a  force  of 
militia.  An  English 
ship-ofwar  threaten- 
ing to  bombard  the 
place  in  1781,  but 
Lund  Washington 
bought  off  her  cajv 
tain  with  needed  sup)- 
plies,  for  which 
Washington  later  se- 
verely rebuked  his 
kinsman.  In  Sep)- 
tember  of  the  same  year,  the  master  himself  had  a  day  at  home, 
passed  in  going  over  his  affairs,  and  the  ne.\t  day  received 
there  the  French  noblemen,  Rochambeau  and  de  Chastellux 
and  their  suites,  with  whom  he  went  on  to  Lafayette's  camp 
at  Williamsburg  to  prepare  the  crowning  victory  of  the  war 
at  Yorktown.  Before  they  left  Mount  Vernon,  however, 
there  was  a  great  dinner,  with  many  guests  bidden  from  the 
country-side,  and  Washington's  beloved  grandchildren  sat  at 
board  with  the  great  gentlemen.  Their  father,  John  Parke 
Custis,  followed  in  Washington's  train  as  aide,  and  died  of 
camp  fever  a  few  days  after  the  surrender  at  Yorktown. 
Washington  adopted  the  two  younger  children,  Eleanor 
Parke  Custis,  who  had  just  two-and-a-half  years,  and  George 
Washington  Parke  Custis,  of  the  tender  age  of  six  months. 

It  was  Christmas  Eve,  1783,  when  the  General  reached 
Mount  Vernon  after  the  resignation  of  his  Commission  to 
the  Congress  at  Annapolis.  There  followed  a  severe  winter, 
which  brought  him  the  needed  quiet  and  rest. 

But  the  world  sought  him  out  in  his  retirement,  and  the 
old  house  soon  showed  itself  all  too  small  to  accommodate 
the  distinguished  guests  who  flocked  to  him  there.  Deciding 
to  enlarge  the  house  and  adorn  the  grounds,  he  developed 
the  arrangement  of  the  present  buildings.  He  was  his  own 
architect,  personally  drawing  all  the  plans  and  elevations, 
which  were  carefully  calculated  and  figured,  and  preparing 
the   specification   of   labor   and    material  for  the  workmen. 


The  East  Front :    Mount  Vernon 


Leaving  the  old  house  of  Lawrence  Washington  practically 
intact,  he  built  on  to  either  gable,  extending  the  roof  in  hipped 
form  over  the  new  wings.  The  mansion  stands  to-day  as  he 
left  it.  It  has  two  stories  and  a  generous  garret,  is  96  feet 
long  by  30  feet,  with  a  piazza,  or  portico,  extending  the 
whole  length  of  the  eastern,  or  river,  front,  its  roof  car- 
ried on  square  columns,  above  the  entablature  of  which 
runs  a  light  balustrade.  Three  dormer-windows  pierce  the 
river-side  of  the  roof ;  there  are  two  on  the  west,  and  one  on 
each  of  the  ends.  A  small  observatory  with  spire  cuts  the 
centre  of  the  ridge.  The  house*  is  entirely  of  wood,  very 
solidly  framed.  The  outer  covering  is  of  broad  and  thick 
boards,  worked  into  chamfered  panels  to  give  the  appear- 
ance of  carved  stonework.  Theoretically  these  should  have 
been  split  and  rotted  long  ago  by  sun  and  rain,  but,  in  fact, 
they  have  held  their  own  as  well  as  any  other  part  of  the 
staunch  old  building. 

The  plan  shows  a  wide  central  hallway,  into  which  open 
two  rooms  on  either  hand,  and  whose  western  end  is  occu- 
pied by  a  broad  and  heavy  stairway  reaching,  in  two  runs, 
the  chambers  above.  To  the  north  are  a  reception-room 
and  parlor  from  which  doors  open  into  the  great  drawing- 
room  occupying  the  whole  of  the  northern  addition.  This 
last  is  a  handsome  chamber,  with  a  deep  cove  above  the 
panelling  and  a  ceiling  richly  ornamented  in  stucco  relief. 

The    pitch    of    this 
_j._  room  is  high  and  its 

whole  effect  is  stately. 
The  other  chambers 
and  the  hall  are  of 
very  moderate 
height. 

On  the  south  of 
the  hallway  are  the 
dining-room,  a  parlor, 
the  library,  and  a 
breakfast-room,  from 
which  a  small  stair 
ascends  to  the  second 
floor.  A  segmental 
arcaded  passageway,  or  pergola,  connects  this  end  of  the 
house  to  the  kitchen-building,  beyond  which  is  another  build- 
ing for  house-servants'  quarters.  This  arrangement  is  ex- 
actly balanced  on  the  north  wing,  the  house  opposite  the 
kitchen  being  used  for  office  and  storerooms.  The  plan 
shows  the  relative  positions  of  these  auxiliaries,  which  have 
been  in  nowise  changed. 

Washington's  careful  consideration  of  details  in  these 
building-operations  is  instanced  in  the  frequently  quoted 
letter  to  Mr.  Wm.  Rumney,  of  Alexandria,  on  his  departure 
for  England  :  — 

"General  Washington  presents  his  compliments  to  Mr.  Rumney 
.  .  .  would  esteem  it  as  a  particular  favour  if  Mr.  Rumney  would 
make  the  following  enquiries  as  soon  as  convenient  after  bis 
arrival  in  England,  and  communicate  the  result  of  them  by  the 
Packet,  or  any  other  safe  and  expeditious  conveyance  to  tliis 
country. 

^^  First.  —  The  terms  upon  which  tlie  best  kind  of  Whitehaven 
flagstone — black  and  white  in  equal  quantities  —  could  be  de- 
livered at  the  port  of  Alexandria,  by  the  su])erficial  foot  —  work- 
manship, freight  and  every  otlier  incidental  charge  included. 

"  The  stone  to  be  2  1-2  inches,  or  thereabouts,  thick  ;  and  ex.ictly 
a  foot  square,  each  kind. 

"  To  have  a  rich-polished  face  and  good  joint.s,  so  that  a  neat  floor 
may  be  made  therewith. 

"  5Vvo«(/.  ^  Upon  wliat  terms  the  common  Irish  marble  (l>Iack- 
and-white,  if  to  be  had)  —  same  dimensions,  could  be  delivered  as 
above. 

>  Plate  33,  I'art  VI. 


40 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


..  Third  —  As  the  General  has  been  informed  of  a  very  cheap 
kind  of  marble,  -ood  in  quality,  at  or  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Ostend,  he  would'thank  Mr.  Kumney,  if  it  should  fall  in  his  way, 
to  institute  an  enquiry  into  this  also. 

••On  the  Report  of  Mr.  Rumnev,  the  General  will  take  his  ulti- 
mate determination;  for  which  reason  he  prays  him  to  be  precise 
and  exact  The  Piazza  or  Colonnade  for  which  this  is  wanted  as 
k  rioor  is  92  feet  8  inches  by  12  feet  8  inches  within  the  margin 
or  border  that  surrounds  it.  Over  and  above  the  quantity  here 
mentioned,  if  the  above  Hags  are  cheap,  he  would  get  as  much  as 
would  lav  doors  in  the  circular  colonnades,  or  covered  ways  at  the 
win"-s  of' the  house  — each  of  which  at  the  outer  curve  is  38  feet 
in   fength   by  7  feet   2  inches  in  breadth,  within  the  margin   or 

border  as  aforesaid.  ,  ,    •  i  1 

••  The  General  being  in  want  of  a  house-joiner  and  bricklayer 
who  understand  their  respective  trades  perfectly,  would  thank  Mr. 
Rumney  for  enquiring  into  the  terms  upon  which  such  workmen 
might  be  engaged  for  two  or  three  years  (the  time  of  service  to 
commence  upon  the  ship's  arrival  at  Alexandria);  a  shorter  term 
than  two  vears  would  not  answer  because  foreigners  generally 
have  a  seasoning  which  with  other  interruptions  too  frequently 
wastes  the  greater  part  of  the  first  year  — more  to  the  disadvan- 
tage of  the  employer  than  the  employed.  Bed,  board  and  tools  to 
be'' found  by  the  former,  clothing  by  the  latter. 

'•  If  two  men  of  the  above  Trades  and  of  orderly  and  quiet  de- 
portment could  be  obtained  for  twenty-five  or  even  thirty  pounds 
sterling  per  annum  each  (estimating  the  dollar  at  4.f.  6(/.),  the 
General,  rather  than  sustain  the  loss  of  time  necessary  for  com- 
munication would  be  obliged  to  Mr.  Rumney  for  entering  in 
proper  obligatory  articles  of  agreement  on  his  behalf  with  them 
and  sending  them  by  the  first  vessel  bound  to  this  port." 
"Mount  Vernon,  July  5,  1784." 

His  diaries  and  the  various  collections  of  his  letters  and 
writings  are  full  of  similar  examples  of  the  care  and  compre- 
hensive intelligence  with  which  Washington  discharged  the 
multifarious  duties  of  his  public  and  private  hfe.  Mean- 
while he  was  giving  much  attention  to  the  selection  of  trees 
from  his  forests  for  transplanting  into  the  grounds.^  His 
diaries  record  his  habit  of  riding  nearly  every  day  to  the 
woods  to  seek  additions  to  his  lawn-trees  and  shrubbery. 
The  lawn  and  gardens  on  the  west  or  land  side  of  the  house, 
where  was  the  approach  from  the  pubhc  highway,  covered 
about  twenty  acres.  The  gardens  were  enclosed  in  brick 
walls.  The  flower-garden  lay  to  the  north,  perhaps  because 
that  side  was  farther  removed  from  the  stables,  which  were 
to  the  south  and  adjoining  the  vegetable-garden.  The  latter 
has  a  southerly  slope  and  a  very  sheltered  situation.  The 
lawn  is  broad  and  of  handsome  effect.  It  is  bordered  on 
either  hand  by  a  driveway  in  easy  curves,  and  the  trees  were 


The  Sunrise  Tavern,  Fredericksburg.  —  Fredericksburg, 
too,  is  a  "  happy  hunting-ground  "  for  the  antiquarian.     Wherever 


Washington's  Chamber:    Sunrise  Tavern,  Fredericksburg,  Va. 

he  turns  he  finds  an  echo  of  the  spirit  of  the  jjast.     One  of  the 
(piaintest  spots   in  the  Old  iiurg  is  the  famous   .Sunrise  Tavern 


grouped  along  its  edges  and  back  to  the  garden  walls. 
Among  them  were  some  fine  shade-trees.  On  the  plan 
drawn  by  Washington  we  have  the  name  and  place  of  each 
written  in  or  indicated  by  letters  and  numerals  in  the 
accompanying  memorandum. 

In  the  oval  described  by  the  carriage-way  before  the  west- 
ern door  was  a  grass-plot  with  a  dial-post  in  its  centre,  or,  at 
least,  so  it  was  intended.  A  new  dial-post  was  set  there 
some  years  back,  but  it  is  not  in  keeping,  being  elaborated 
with  Gothic  mouldings.  Otherwise  nothing  is  changed. 
There  are  some  fine  old  trees  surviving  of  those  Washington 
planted  in  1784-5,  and  where  the  originals  have  been  suc- 
ceeded by  younger  growth,  these  latter  stand  as  much  as 
possible  in  the  positions  given  upon  his  plan.  The  two 
small  octagon  garden-houses  built  by  Washington  for  seeds, 
tools,  and  other  purposes,  have  been  restored  to  their  origi- 
nal appearance.  They  have  brick  bases  and  are  boarded,  in 
imitation  of  stone-forms,  after  the  manner  of  the  dwelling- 
house.  The  heavy  brick  walls  around  the  two  gardens  re- 
main in  good  state,  even  to  their  brick  coping. 

The  conservatory  on  the  north  side  of  the  flower  garden, 
destroyed  by  fire,  with  the  adjoining  servants'  quarters  in 
1835,  has  also  been  rebuilt.  Lossing  writes  that  Washing- 
ton collected  into  these  glass-houses  many  rare  plants,  some 
of  which  were  presented  by  admirers,  but  most  purchased 
from  the  gardens  of  the  horticulturist  John  Bartram,  near 
Philadelphia,  famous  in  their  time.  Bartram  was  a  Quaker 
and  a  noted  botanist.  He  died  during  the  War  of  the  Revo- 
lutior,  and  his  son  William,  who  published  in  1791  an  account 
of  botanical  explorations  in  the  Southern  States,  succeeded 
to  the  business,  and  was  honored  by  being  consulted  by  Gen- 
eral Washington  in  the  arrangement  of  his  new  greenhouses. 
Some  few  tropical  plants  arrived  at  Mount  Vernon  on  vessels 
coming  up  from  the  West  Indies.  In  this  way  Washington 
got  some  large  lemon  trees,  from  whose  cuttings  he  had  es- 
tablished quite  a  little  grove  in  one  end  of  the  conservatories 
at  the  time  of  his  death. 

with  its  shabby  exterior  and  its  beautiful  hall  and  stairway.     Its 
bedrooms  have  all  slanting  roofs,  and  in  one  of  these  it  is  known 


1  I'late  35,  I'art  \T. 


The  Staircase :   Sunrise  Tavern,  Fredericksburg,  Va. 

tliat  Washington  often  slept.  When  he  came  to  Fredericksburg 
to  see  his  mother  —  instead  of  remaining  under  her  roof — he 
repaired  at  bedtime  to  the  old  .Sunrise  Inn. S'.  N.  R. 


MOUNT    VERNON. 


47 


The  ice-house  which,  after  his  retirement  from  the  Presi- 
dency, Washington  built  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  east 
lawn  on  the  edge  of  a  high  bank  above  the  river  was,  accord- 
ing to  Lossing,  at  that  time  a  new  thing  in  Virginia  and  rather 
uncommon  elsewhere. 

A  copy  of  the  memorandum  in  Washington's  hand  giving 
compass  bearings  and  distances  in  feet  and  inches  to  various 
buildings  and  landmarks  about  the  grounds  may  be  seen 
in  Lossing's  "  Home  of  Washington."  It  is  recorded  that 
Mount  Vernon  was  often  crowded  with  visitors  during  the 
period  when  these  works  were  going  forward.  Lafayette 
was  there  for  a  fortnight  in  August,  1784,  and  during  his 
visit  the  place  was  always  crowded.  Houdon  came  over  from 
France  in  1785,  arriving  at  Mount  Vernon  in  October,  to 
make  the  preliminary  studies  for  a  statue  of  Washington 
ordered  by  Virginia,  which  now  stands  in  the  rotunda  of  the 
capitol  at  Richmond.  The  sculptor  remained  for  two  weeks, 
during  which  he  made  a  plaster  mask  of  the  face  of  Wash- 
ington, and  from  that  a  clay  model.  A  cast  of  this  was  sent 
to  Paris,  but  the  clay  model  remains  at  Mount  Vernon. 
He  also  made  measurements  from  the  person  of  Washington 
and  studies  for  the  military  costume.  Gouverneur  Morris,  in 
Paris  when  he  returned,  gave  Houdon  opportunity  to  study 
from  his  posing  for  the  finished  marble.  Houdon's  is  our 
best  statue  of  the  great  American. 

Washington  gave  sittings  for  a  portrait  to  the  English 
artist  Pine,  in  May,  1785.  He  makes  a  little  fun  on  this  point 
in  a  letter  to  Francis  Hopkinson.  Pine  also  painted  the  two 
grandchildren,  "Nelly"  and  G.  W.  Parke  Custis.  These 
portraits  were  solidly  painted  and  remain  fresh.  The  ne.xt 
noted  arrivals  were  a  pack  of  staghounds,  the  gift  of  La- 
fayette. Washington's  kennels,  which,  being  fond  of  hunt- 
ing, he  had  kept  up  in  the  early  days  before  the  war,  had 
long  been  empty.  The  old  favorites,  "  Vulcan,  True  Love, 
Ringwood,  Sweetlips,  Singer  and  Forester,  Music  and  Rock- 
wood,"  were  dead  or  invalided.  These  dogs  from  France 
were  big,  fierce  animals  which  were  always  kept  confined. 
In  a  few  months  he  determined  to  forsake  tiie  chase  for 
evermore,  and  he  broke  up  his  kennels  and  gave  away  the 
hounds,  transferring  his  interest  to  a  deer-park  which  he 
made  on  the  wooded  slope  toward  the  river. 

About  this  time  arrived  the  large  chimney-piece  in  Carrara 
and  Sienna  marbles,  a  very  handsome  and  finely-sculptured 
piece  executed  in  Sienna  for  an  English  admirer  of  Washing- 
ton's, Mr.  Vaughan,  and  presented  by  him  to  Mount  Vernon, 
where  it  is  set  up  in  the  great  drawing-room. 

In  return  Washington  despatched  to  Vaughan's  son  in  the 
West  Indies,  for  the  hurricane  sufferers,  "  a  few  barrels  of 
superfine  fiour  of  my  own  manufacturing."  There  came  also 
a  jack  and  two  jennies  from  the  Royal  Stud  at  Madrid,  and 
Lafayette  sent  also  a  jack  and  jennies  from  Malta.  Wash- 
ington from  these  fine  animals  stocked  his  estate  with  some 
large  and  valuable  mules.  One  team  of  these,  at  the  sale 
of  the  General's  effects,  brought  $800. 

The  enlargement  of  the  house  and  arrangement  of  the 
grounds  were  finished  toward  the  end  of  tiie  year  1785. 

During  the  Presidency,  and  his  residence  in  New  York 
and  Philadelphia,  Washington  acquired  much  handsome 
furniture,  plate,  etc.,  which  subsequently  came  down  to 
Mount  Vernon.  He  had  out  from  England,  while  in  New 
York,  the  splendid  coach  described  by  Bishop  Meade  as 
decorated  with  Washington's  arms,  and  with  small  allegorical 
pictures  with  cupidons  in  the  panels.  In  New  York  he  occu- 
pied a  house  "  on  the  west  side  of  Broadway  between  Trinity 
and  Bowling  Green,"  which  had  been  used  by  the  Minister 
of  France,  some  of  whose  furniture  was  bought  for  him. 


He  declined  to  be  lodged  at  the  public  cost.  At  Phila- 
delphia he  followed  the  same  course,  and,  after  experiencing 
some  difficulty  in  securing  a  mansion  suitable  to  his  state  as 
Chief  Executive,  he  agreed  to  pay  $3,000  for  the  Morris 
House,  a  high  price  in  those  days. 

Washington  was  necessarily  very  little  at  Mount  Vernon 
during  the  two  terms  of  the  Presidency,  and  on  his  return  to 
private  life  on  his  estates  he  "found  much  deterioration  to 
buildings  by  absence  and  neglect  of  eight  years." 

He  wished  "  to  make  and  sell  a  little  flour  annually,  to 
repair  houses  (fast  going  to  ruin),  to  build  one  for  the  se- 
curity of  my  papers  of  a  public  nature,  and  to  amuse  myself 
in  agricultural  and  rural  pursuits  .  .  .  employment  for  the 
few  years  I  have  to  remain  on  this  terrestrial  globe.  If  also 
I  could  now  and  then  meet  the  friends  I  esteem  it  would  fill 
the  measure  and  add  zest  to  my  enjoyments;  but,  if  ever  this 
happens  it  must  be  under  my  own  vine  and  fig-tree,  as  I  do 
not  think  it  probable  I  shall  go  twenty  miles  from  them." 
In  this  extract  from  a  letter  to  Oliver  Wolcott  might  be  con- 
densed the  story  of  his  remaining  years. 

Lawrence  Lewis,  son  of  Washington's  sister  Elizabeth, 
came  by  invitation  to  reside  at  Mount  Vernon  in  1798,  and 
he  married  Nellie  Custis  there  on  Washington's  birthday, 
1799  ;  the  young  couple  continued  to  make  Mount  Vernon 
their  home  until  the  completion  of  their  new  house  of 
"  Woodlawn,"  some  miles  away. 

General  Washington  was  now  in  his  sixty-eighth  year.  He 
kept  up  his  personal  management  of  the  estate,  and  rode 
about  his  farms  almost  daily. 

Custis  thus  described  him  in  these  occupations  of  his  last 
years  :  "  An  old  gentleman  riding  alone  in  plain  drab  clothes, 
a  broad-brimmed  white  hat,  a  hickory  switch  in  his  hand  and 
carrying  an  umbrella  with  a  long  stafif  which  is  attached  to 
his  saddle-bow  —  that  person  is  George  Washington."  He 
adhered  to  the  old  routine  of  breakfast  at  seven  in  summer 
and  at  eight  in  winter,  dinner  at  three  —  with  small  beer  or 
cider  and  some  glasses  of  Madeira  —  tea  and  toast  at  dusk, 
and  to  bed  at  nine.  The  place  was  well  managed  and  kept 
productive.  An  estimate  of  the  scale  upon  which  Washing- 
ton conducted  the  business  of  farming,  and  of  the  success  of 
his  operations,  may  be  had  from  the  following  facts,  for  which 
the  writer  is  mainly  indebted  to  a  pamphlet  entitled  :  "Some 
Old  Historic  Landmarks,"  y^ .  H.  Snowden,  Philadelphia,  1894. 
Besides  the  mansion  house  and  outbuildings  already  de- 
scribed, there  were  "overlooker's  houses  "  and  negro  quarters 
on  each  of  the  farms.  In  one  place  Washington  speaks  of  a 
new  brick  barn  "  equal  perhaps  to  any  in  America."  This 
was  on  the  Union  Farm.  On  the  Dogue  Run  Farm  he  built 
his  new  circular,  or  rather  sixteen-sided,  barn  of  brick  and 
frame  60  feet  in  diameter.  There  was  in  this  barn  a  thresh- 
ing or  treading-out  floor  in  the  second  story  which  was  a 
gallery  10  feet  wide,  passing  around  outside  the  centre  mows, 
whose  floor  was  of  open  slats,  so  that  the  grain  fell  through 
to  the  floor  below,  while  the  straw  remained.  The  oxen 
used  for  treading  out  were  taken  up  to  this  floor  on  an  in- 
clined plane.  He  also  had  made  a  device  worked  by  horse- 
power, by  which  the  heads  of  the  wheat-sheaves  piled  upon  a 
table  were  held  against  rapidly  revolving  arms  to  remove  the 
grain.     He  worked  a  grist-mill  near  the  mouth  of  Dogue  Run. 

At  one  time  he  had  580  acres  in  grass,  400  in  oats,  700  in 
wheat,  700  in  corn,  and  several  hundred  acres  besides  in 
barley,  buckwheat,  potatoes,  peas,  beans,  and  turnips.  There 
were  140  horses  on  the  estates,  112  cows,  226  working  oxen, 
heifers  and  steers,  500  sheep,  and  many  hogs  running  at 
large  in  the  woodland  pastures.  About  two  hundred  and 
fifty  negroes  were   employed  upon   the  farms.     A  score  of 


48 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


ploughs  was  kept  at  work  the  year  round  when  the  conditions 
would  permit.  As  many  as  150  swine  were  slaughtered  for 
household  and  "  hands."  The  farms  were  under  competent 
overseers,  who  accounted  regularly  to  the  master  in  person. 

In  July  of  this  year  Washington  executed  his  last  will  and 
testament,  a  document  full  of  the  rare  judgment,  force  and 
precision,  the  justness  and  kindness  which  had  distinguished 
all  the  important  acts  of  his  life. 

The  house  of  Mount  Vernon,  with  an  estate  of  4,000  acres 
and  the  library  of  books  and  pamphlets,  passed,  on  the  death 
of  Mrs.  Washington,  to  Bushrod  Washington,  his  nephew. 
In  1829,  the  ownership  fell  to  Bushrod's  nephew,  John 
Augustine,  the  son  of  Corbin  Washington.  From  1743  to 
1859,  Mount  Vernon  was  held  by  a  Washington.  It  was  then 
purchased  by  the  Mount  Vernon  Ladies'  Association,  incor- 
porated by  Act  of  the  Virginia  Legislature  of  March  17,  1856. 
Their  title  covers  the  mansion,  the  tomb,  the  gardens,  the 
grounds  and  the  wharf,  about  two  hundred  acres  of  land, 
with  a  capital  stock  of  $500,000.  Reversion  to  the  State  of 
Virginia  is  provided  for  in  case  of  the  demise  of  the  company. 
The  material  for  these  notes,  for  the  unfinished  manner  of 
whose  presentment  some  apology  is  due  the  reader,  has  bten 
collected  mainly  from  Lossing's  "  Home  of  Washington" 
Irving's  "Life"  Rush's  '^  Domestic  Life"  and  from  some  odd 
sources. 


■isje^ 


POHICK   CHURCH. 


•^S^ 


The  old  frame  building  of  Pohick  Church  was  fallen  into 
so  bad  a  state  of  disrepair  in  1764  that  it  was  determined  to 
rebuild.  Washington's  friend.  Mason  of  Gunston,  advocated 
retaining  the  old  site.  Washington  favored  a  new  one,  more 
central,  and  carried  his  point  by  producing  in  vestry  a  map 
of  his  own  making,  on  which  he  had  located  the  house  of 
each  parishioner.  He  drew  a  ground-plan  and  elevation,  in 
India  ink  on  proper  drawing-paper,  for  the  use  of  the  archi- 
tect. The  drawing  measures  10"  x  15".  The  old  church 
suffered  some  demolition  through  being  used  as  an  occasional 
cavalry  barracks  during  our  Civil  War.  The  present  vestry 
is  getting  it  gradually  back  into  the  original  shape. 


%Jf 


WOODLAWN  :     THE    HOME    OF    NELLIE   CUSTIS    LEWIS. 

This  house  '  is  from  a  very  charming  design  of  Dr.  William 
Thornton's.  The  buildings  constitute  a  well-balanced  group, 
full  of  dignity  and  repose.  The  plan  of  the  main  house 
forms  a  rectangle,  with  two  wings  attached  by  curtains,  and 
these  wings  are  joined  to  flanking  out-buildings  by  brick 
walls  pierced  centrally  by  gateways. 

There  is  a  completeness  about  the  group  and  a  perfectly 
harmonious,  symmetrical  and  quiet  treatment  of  its  members 
which  one  cannot  fail  to  find  most  artistic.  A  nice  sense  of 
proportion  makes  itself  felt  throughout,  with  a  breadth  and 
spaciousness  of  effect  most  agreeable  to  the  eye.  The  plan 
is  an  unforced  and  obvious  disposition  of  the  spaces  into 
two  rooms  on  either  hand  of  a  generous  axial  hallway.  The 
latter  is  slightly  out  of  the  centre,  owing  to  a  difference  in 
the  width  of  rooms,  20  feet  to  left  and  18  feet  6  inches  to 
right,  but  the  entrance-doorways  east  and  west  are  central 
to  the  respective  fagades,  and  the  longer  dimension  of  the 
rooms,  23  feet,  is  the  same  in  all.  They  are  divided  by 
brick  partitions  of  two  bricks'  thickness.  Their  doors  to 
hallway,  not  central  to  the  wall,  are  3  feet  wide. 

'  Plates  22-26,  Part  \'I. 


The  stairway  in  the  east  end  of  the  hall  begins  with  a 
straight  run,  which  develops  into  an  ellipse  of  French  fashion. 
There  is  a  descent  to  cellar  under. 

The  difference  in  the  level  of  ground  from  west  to  east 
gives  occasion  for  the  portico,  with  its  four  round  columns 
built  up  of  bricks  covered  with  stucco.  These  columns  show 
a  slight  entasis,  and  have  stone  plinths,  and  wood  caps  (from 
the  astragal  up),  the  neck  long,  cushion  and  abacus  de- 
pressed. The  entablature  and  superposed  balustrade  are  in 
wood  and  have  the  lightness  and  grace  which  that  material 
permits.  The  detail  and  ornamentation  are  simple  but  ef- 
fective, especially  in  the  west  door  and  the  round-arched 
window  over  it,  both  with  sculptured  stone  framing  and 
carved  keystone,  and  caps  at  spring  of  arch.  The  fanlight 
is  pleasing  and  the  membering  of  the  door  panels  refined. 

The  brick  is  laid  in  Flemish  bond.  On  the  west  side  the 
windows  and  door  in  the  curtains  are  grouped  under  arches, 
the  ground  recessed  and  covered  with  stucco,  thus  giving  an 
arcaded  effect  to  the  curtains.  All  square  windows  have  flat 
stone  voussoirs  with  worked  keystones.  The  panels  set 
under  windows  of  second  story  are  of  stone,  with  a  depressed 
field  on  which  is  carved  drapery-swag  in  low  relief. 

A  low  pediment,  with  raking  cornice  in  wood,  enclosing  a 
stone-framed  oculus,  cuts  into  the  roof  over  the  centre  of 
each  fagade.     Otherwise  the  roof  is  unbroken. 

In  the  interior  one  notes  good  fireplaces '^  in  each  room,  a 
convenient  arrangement  of  communicating  doors,  utilization 
of  corners  by  means  of  built-in  cupboards,  and  a  general 
effect  of  roominess  and  comfort. 

The  kitchen,  with  its  two  great  fireplaces,  back  to  back, 
its  capacious  brick  oven  and  broad  hearths,  is  on  a  scale 
which  bespeaks  a  bountiful  good  cheer.  Pantry  and  scul- 
lery find  room  in  the  curtain.  These  are  on  a  level  two 
steps  below  that  of  the  main  house,  to  which  there  is 
communication  through  two  doors. 

In  the  opposite  wing  are  an  office  and  a  small  bedroom, 
each  with  fireplace  and  closet.  From  the  adjoining  curtain 
the  plan  shows  stairs  to  second  story  and  to  cellar,  and  a  door 
and  steps  to  yard.  The  flanking  out-buildings  were,  doubt- 
less, used  as  smoke-house,  on  the  one  hand,  and  poultry  and 
fuel  house  on  the  other. 

The  approach  was  on  the  west.  There  was  a  circular 
grass-plot,  99  feet  in  diameter,  within  a  driveway  of  18  feet 
in  width.  Against  the  upper  edge  of  the  circle,  just  opposite 
the  door  of  house,  was  an  ellipse,  in  box-bushes,  enclosing  a 
space  of  about  thirty-nine  feet  by  forty-five  feet,  in  which 
was  doubtless  once  the  sun-dial.  Roads  in  gentle  curves  led 
along  the  house-front  northward  to  the  stables,  and  to  south, 
and  trees  were  set  at  regular  intervals  along  the  border  of 
the  drive  and  along  the  straight  avenue  of  entrance.  On  the  ' 
east  side  of  the  house,  there  remains  no  evidence  that  the 
gardens,  masked  from  the  front  by  the  walls  above  described, 
were  at  any  time  treated  with  an  attempt  at  landscape-archi- 
tectural effects. 

Dr.  William  Thornton,  to  whom  is  attributed  the  design 
of  this  house,  was  an  English  gentleman  of  very  unusual 
attainments.  He  submitted,  at  the  same  time  with  the 
French  architect,  Hallette,  it  will  be  remembered,  a  design 
for  the  capitol  at  Washington.  Dr.  Thornton's  plan  was 
followed  to  some  extent,  but,  he  not  being  a  trained  archi- 
tect, Hallette  was  associated  with  him  in  the  work  from  1792 
to  1794.  In  the  design  of  "  Woodlawn  "  he  has  given  proof 
of  a  highly-refined  taste  in  domestic  architecture. 

The  mistress  of  this  mansion  is  best  known  to  us  from 

■^Plates  25,  26,  Part  W. 


WOODLA  IVN. 


49 


Gilbert  Stuart's  painting  of  her  at  eighteen,  which  adorned 
the  dining-room  in  her  brother's  house,  '•Arlington,"  for  many 
years.  She  was  vivacious  as  well  as  lovely,  accomplished, 
well-read,  and  a  witty  talker.  She  and  her  brother,  G.  W. 
Parke  Custis,  were  brought  up  at  Mount  Vernon,  and  Eleanor 
was  ever  a  prime  favorite  with  its  master.  Glimpses  of  the 
bright  and  tender  part  she  played  in  his  later  life  are  found 
here  and  there  in  the  Diaries.  When  suitors  came,  as  in 
time  they  must,  and  in  force,  he  seems  to  have  given  them 
all  "a  fair  field  and  no  favor,"  but  he  was  not  displeased 
that  his  favorite  nephew,  Lawrence  Lewis,  was  the  lucky  one. 
Lawrence  was  the  son  of  Washington's  sister  Betty,  and, 
doubtless,  the  relationship  gave  him  a  good  place  in  the 
running. 

The  wedding-day  was  Washington's  birthday, —  as  it  hap- 
pened, his  last,  February  22,  1799.  The  mansion  was  festive 
in  flowers  and  evergreens.  In  the  presence  of  the  great 
household  assembled,  and  of  kin  and  gentlefolk  from  round 
about,  the  ceremony  was  held  in  the  state  drawing-room. 
Of  Custises  and  Lewises  and  Lees,  of  Corbins,  Bushrods. 
Dandridges,  Blackburns,  Masons,  Calverts  and  Carrolls  there 
was  full  muster.  Of  good  cheer  there  was  no  lack.  And 
later  the  minuet  was  danced  and  the  gayety  of  the  evening 
found  its  height  in  jolly  "  Sir  Roger  de  Coverly."  On  that 
night  Mount  Vernon  saw  its  high-tide  of  joyous  life.  Dark 
days  were  coming  upon  it.  Washington  lay  dead  there  ten 
months  after. 

His  will,  made  in  July,  1799,  and  one  of  the  most  charac- 
teristic documents  he  ever  penned,  left  to  the  Lewises  a 
large  tract  of  land  from  the  Mount  Vernon  estate.  The 
clause  is  here  quoted  entire  : — • 

"  Third.  —  And  wherea.s  it  has  always  heen  my  intention 
"since  my  expectation  of  liavinjj  issue  has  ceased,  to  consider 
'•  the  granilcliiklren  of  my  wife  in  tlie  same  lijjht  as  I  do  niv  own 
"  relations  and  to  act  a  friendly  part  by  them,  more  especially 
"  by  tlie  two  wliom  we  liave  reared  from  their  earlie.st  infancv, 
"namely,  1-lleanor  I'arke  Custis  and  (ieorf^e  Washinjjton  Parke 
"Custis;  and  whereas  the  former  of  these  hath  lately  inter- 
"  married  with  Lawrence  Lewis,  a  .son  of  my  deceased  sister 
"  Betty  Lewis,  by  which  union  the  inducement  to  provide  for 
"them  botli  lias  been  increased.  —  Wherefore  I  give  and  lie- 
"  queath  to  the  said  Lawrence  Lewis  and  Eleanor  I'arke  Lewis, 
"  his  wife,  and  their  heirs,  the  residue  of  my  Mount  \'ernon 
"  estate,  not  already  devised  to  my  nejihew  liushrod  Washinj^ton, 
"comprehended  witliin  the  followinj;  description. — viz  —  all  the 
"  land  north  of  the  Koad  leading  from  the  ford  of  Uogue  Run 
"to  the  (ium  Spring  as  described  in  the  devise  of  tlie  other 
"  part  of  the  tract  to  lUishrod  Wasliington  until  it  comes  to  the 
"stone  and  three  red  or  .Spanish  oaks  on  the  know!.  —  thence 
"  with  tlie  rectangular  line  to  the  back  line  (between  Mr.  Ma.son 
"  and  me)  thence  witli  that  line  Westerly,  along  the  new  double 
"ditch  to  Dogne  Run.  by  the  tumbling  dam  of  my  mill. — 
"thence  with  the  said  Run  to  the  ford  aforementioned:  —  to 
"  which  I  add  all  tlie  land  I  possess  west  of  tlie  said  Dogue 
"  Run  and  IJogue  Crk  bonded.  ICasterly  &  Southerly  thereby  — 
"together  with  the  Mill,  Distillery  and  all  other  houses  and 
"  improvements  on  the  premises  making  together  about  two 
"  thousand  acres  be  it  more  or  le.ss." 

The  house  of  "  Woodlawn,"  erected  on  this  estate  in  the  first 
years  of  the  century,  stands  upon  an  eminence  three  miles 
inland  from  Mount  Vernon,  and  commands  a  pleasing  view 
of  the  Potomac,  Dogue  Bay,  and  the  valley.  The  hospitality 
dispensed  there  during  the  occupancy  of  its  first  owners  was 
after  the  generous  plan  of  Mount  Vernon,  lielvoir,  and  other 
distinguished  homes  of  the  preceding  generations.  Lafayette, 
who  had  taken  Nellie  Custis  on  his  knee  as  a  child,  visited 
her  there  in  1824.  Her  life  at  Woodlawn  covered  forty 
years.     Four  children  were  born  there. 

Major  Lawrence  Lewis  died  at  .Vrlington  in  1839.  His 
wife  followed  him  in  1852.  She  was  buried  from  the  room 
where  she  was  married,  the  great  drawing-room  of   Mount 


Vernon.  Her  only  son,  Lorenzo  Lewis,  lived  for  some  years 
at  his  place  of  Woodlawn.  It  was  afterwards  neglected  and 
has  fallen  into  some  disrepair.  The  present  owners,  the 
Electric  Railway  Company,  propose  to  restore  and  preserve  it. 


^^.o^^ 


GUNSTON    HALL,    VIRGINIA  :     THE    HOME   OF    GEORGE    MASON. 

Col.  George  Mason,  the  great-grandfather  of  George 
Mason  of  Gunston,  the  Revolutionary  patriot,  is  said  to  have 
commanded  a  troop  of  horse  at  the  battle  of  Worcester 
(1651),  whence  he  escaped  in  disguise  and  was  concealed  by 
peasants  until  able  to  embark  for  America,  where  he  settled 
on  the  Potomac  River. 

The  family  of  Mason  was  of  Stratford-on-Avon.  Col. 
Gerard  Fowke,  of  the  Fowkes  of  Brewood  and  Gunston, 
came  over  with  him.  There  was  a  hamlet  called  Gunston  in 
the  Brewood  Parish,  and  here  was  Gunston  Hall.  A  George 
Mason  of  the  Virginia  Company  in  1620  was,  perhaps,  the 
father  of  the  cavalier.  The  latter  brought  out  nineteen 
persons  with  him.  There  is  a  grant  to  him  of  950  acres,  50 
acres  for  each  one  of  those  brought  over  at  his  expense. 
The  land  lay  in  Westmoreland,  which  county  extended  north- 
ward "  to  the  falls  of  the  great  river  Pawtomake,  above  the 
Necostin's  town;"  that  is,  above  the  present  Georgetown, 
In  1664  Mason  bought  650  acres  of  land  in  Westmoreland 
of  Colonel  Peyton,  and  in  1669  got  a  patent  to  500  acres 
more  of  same  tract.  He  was  County-lieutenant  of  Stafford, 
an  office  always  conferred  on  the  class  of  "gentlemen  "  or 
large  landholders.  He  commanded  the  militia,  held  a  seat 
in  the  Council,  presided  over  the  justices,  etc.  He  figured 
largely  in  the  Colonial  history,  took  part  in  Indian  wars,  had 
a  share  in  the  events  of  Bacon's  Rebellion,  and  was  other- 
wise a  notable  personage  in  the  Virginia  of  his  day. 

His  son,  the  second  George  Mason,  was  prominent  in 
Whig  circles.  He  was  Sheriff  of  Stafford.  In  1694  he  sold 
"  .Accokeek,"  "  being  the  late  mansion  of  Col.  George  Mason, 
deceased,"  reserving  the  tomb  of  his  father.  He  acquired 
large  tracts  of  land  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  present 
Gunston.  He  was  also  County-lieutenant.  His  home  seat 
was  Dogue's  Island,  where  he  owned  about  eight  thousand 
acres.  He  died  a  large  property-holder  in  17 16.  He  was 
thrice  married  and  the  father  of  a  large  family. 

George  Mason,  the  third,  the  father  of  Mason  of  Gunston, 
was  also  an  important  personage.  He  was  with  Governor 
Spotswood  in  17 16  on  the  famous  e.xpedition  of  the 
"  Knights  of  the  Golden  Horseshoe  "  over  the  Blue  Ridge 
Mountains.  He  sat  in  the  Assembly  of  17 18,  which  had 
some  important  questions  at  issue  with  the  governor.  He 
was  made  County-lieutenant  in  1719  and  commissioned  by 
Governor  Spotswood  with  references  to  his  "  loyalty  and 
courage."  He  added  more  land  to  the  already  large  estates 
of  the  family.     He  died  in  1735. 

George  Mason  of  Gunston  was  born  in  1725.  He  passed 
the  early  years  of  his  life  at  the  country  house  in  Virginia  to 
which  his  mother  removed  after  her  bereavement.  His  father 
had  been  living  at  their  plantation  in  Charles  County, 
Maryland,  for  some  time  before  his  birth. 

George  Washington  was  about  seven  years  his  junior. 
They  were  neighbors  and  friends  already  as  boys. 

In  1746  George  Mason  came  of  age  and  went  to  live  on 
his  place  in  Dogue's  Neck.  This  seems  to  have  been  oppo- 
site to  Rock  Creek,  which  flows  between  Washington  and 
Georgetown.  He  obtained  about  this  time  a  patent  from 
Lord  Baltimore  to  the  island  called  Mason's  or  Analostan. 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


At  twenty-three  he  was  elected  to  the  House  of  ]!ur- 
gesses.  At  twenty-rtve  he  married  Anne  Eilbeek,  aged 
sixteen,  a  noted  beauty  of  the  region.  Their  portraits  by 
Hesselius  are  extant.  Hesselius  was  a  Swiss  artist  who  ar- 
rived in  this  country  about  1750,  and  seems  to  liave  remained 
some  years,  painting  many  portraits  of  the  gentry  along  both 
banks  of  the  Potomac.  The  name  is  given  as  signed  on 
the  back  of  a  portrait  of  Samuel  Hanson  of  Creen  Hill: 
"Samuel  Hanson,  ,Ktat  46  J.  Hesselius,  pinx.  1765." 

Gunston  Hall  was  completed  in  1758.  It  was  named  for 
the  old  Staffordshire  seat  of  his  ancestors,  the  Fowkes. 

Belvoir.  the  seat  of  William  Fairfax,  Lord  Fairfax's  agent, 
was  a  near  neighbor.  Mason  was  always  prominent  in  affairs 
and  associated  with  Washington  and  other  notables,  but  does 
not  seein  to  have  held  the  family  office  "f  County-lieutenant. 
He  also  made  more  purchases  of  land  about  Gunston.  He 
and  \\'ashington  appear  in  the  Assembly  of  1759-  This 
seems  to  have  been  his  only  acquaintance  with  political  life 
up  to  the  period  of  the  Revoluiion.      lie  seems  to  have  pre- 


left  of  them.  Their  names  have  a  pleasant  old-world  sound. 
'I'here  was  'Marlboro"  of  the  Mercers,  and  ''Jjoscobel"  and 
'•  lielle  Air"  of  the  Fitzhuglis,  and  the  homelier  "  Berry  Hill  " 
and  "Crow's  Nest,"  "Richland"  of  the  Brents,  and  "Chat- 
ham," the  seat  of  another  F"itzhugh,  "Ravensworth"  of  still 
another,  "Bushfield,"  the  mansion  of  John  Augustine  Wash- 
ington, and  "Lee  Hall,"  where  lived  Richard  Lee,  the  uncle 
of  "  Light  Horse  Harry." 

"  Nomini,"  the  residence  of  Robert  Carter,  was  below 
Stratford,  "Mount  Airy"  was  the  Tayloe  seat,  "Blandfield" 
the  Beverly  place.     One  might  set  down  many  more  of  them. 

Smyth,  "  an  Englishman  travelling  in  America  at  the  close 
of  the  Revolution  "  ("  George  Mason"  Rowland.)  describes  the 
Potomac  as  "the  most  noble,  excellent  and  beautiful  river  I 
ever  saw,"  and  says  :  "The  situations  and  gentlemen's  seats 
on  this  river  are  beyond  comparison  or  description  beautiful." 

The  Chotank  region  enclosed  about  one  hundred  thousand 
acres,  settled  by  cavaliers  in  1651.  Lord  Fairfax  was  later 
the  chief  of  these,     (jeneration  succeeded  generation  in  these 


iHAJ-i-i-LJ-UiMJ-Ua^  ruT- 


l>IE.  SEAT  "F 


iisri! . 


Measviud  ANc.Dfv\wN  p.^  AD  IMBB'^ 


ferred  a  private  life.  He  was  a  scholarly  inan  and  a  profound 
thinker.  In  1749  he  became  a  vestryman  of  Truro  Parish, 
Pohick  Church,  in  Fairfax  County.  He  was  earlier  associ- 
ated with  Aquia  Church,  thus  described  by  Bishop  Meade 
in  his  "  Old  Churches  and  Families  :  "  — 

"  The  church  had  a  noble  exterior,  being  a  two-story  house, 
of  the  figure  of  the  cross.  On  its  top  was  an  observatory." 
This  church  was  still  in  good  repair  in  189 1  ("  George 
Mason"  Kate  Mason  Rowland).  The  social  environment  of 
the  group  of  Potomac  planters  living  at  Mount  Vernon, 
Belvoir,  Gunston  Hall,  Stratford,  Chantilly,  etc.,  was  of  the 
most  refined.  More  has  been  made,  in  latter-day  books  on 
this  period,  of  the  elegancies  of  life  which  pertained  to  Colo- 
nial times  at  the  great  historic  places  on  the  James,  West- 
over,  Shirley,  Brandon,  and  the  Carter  mansions,  but  the 
region  we  are  dealing  with  in  this  group  was  at  least  equally 
favored  in  stately  mansions,  the  .seats  of  gentlemen  of  family 
and  culture,  a  landed  gentry  in  all  that  the  name  implies. 
Many  of  these  places  are  fallen  to  ruin,  or  stand  empty  and 
unguarded  from  the  decay  which  will  soon  destroy  what  is 


houses  on  the  James,  Appomattox,  Rappahanock  and  Poto- 
mac Rivers.     The  life  was  that  of  an  ancient  aristocracy. 

From  an  unfinished  inanuscript  of  General  John  Mason's, 
a  son  of  Mason  of  Gunston,  the  author  of  the  '■'Life  of 
George  Mason"  Kate  Mason  Rowland,  gives  an  extract 
describing  (iunston  Hall,  from  which  some  parts  are  copied 
below  :  — 

"Gunston  Hall  is  situated  on  a  height  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Potomac  River  within  a  short  walk  of  the  shores,  and  command- 
ing a  full  view  of  it  about  five  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Oc- 
coquan.  When  I  can  first  remember  it,  it  was  in  a  state  of  high 
improvement  and  carefully  kept.  The  south  front  looked  to  the 
river ;  from  an  elevated  little  portico  on  this  front  you  descended 
directlv  into  an  extensive  garden,  touching  the  house  on  one  side 
and  reduced  from  the  natural  irregularity  of  the  hill-top  to  a  per- 
fect level  platform,  the  southern  extremity  of  which  was  bounded 
hv  a  sjiacious  walk  running  east  and  west,  from  which  there  was  by 
the  natural  and  sudden  declivity  of  the  hill  a  rapid  descent  to  the 
plain  considerably  below  it.  On  this  plain  adjoining  the  margin 
of  the  hill,  opposite  to  and  in  full  view  from  the  garden,  was  a  deer- 
])ark.  studded  with  trees,  kept  well  fenced  and  stocked  with  native 
(leer  domesticat.;d.  On- the  north  front  by  which  was  the  principal 
approach   [the   exposures   are   actually  about   northwest   by  west 


GUNSTON  HALL,    VLRGINLA. 


SI 


and  southeast  by  east]  was  an  extensive  lawn  kept  closely  past- 
ured, through  the  midst  of  which  led  a  spacious  avenue,  girded  by 
long  double  ranges  of  that  liardy  and  stately  cherrv  tree,  the  com- 
mon black-heart,  raised  from  tlie  stone  and  so  the  more  fair  and 
uniform  in  their  growth,  commencing  at  about  two  hundred  feet 
from  the  house  and  extending  thence  for  about  twelve  hundred 
feet;  the  carriageway  being  in  the  centre  and  the  footways  on 
either  side,  between  tlie  two  roads,  forming  each  double  range  of 
trees  and  under  their  shade. 

"  But  what  was  remarkable  and  most  imposing  in  this  avenue 
was  that  the  four  rows  of  trees  being  to  be  so  aligned  as  to  coun- 
teract that  deception  in  our  vision  which,  in  looking  down  long 
parallel  lines,  makes  them  seem  to  approach  as  thev  recede :  ad- 
vantage was  taken  of  the  circumstance  and  another  verv  pleasant 
delusion  was  effected.  A  common  centre  was  established  exactly 
in  the  middle  of  the  outer  doorway  of  the  mansion,  on  that  front, 
from  which  were  made  to  diverge  at  a  certain  angle  the  four  lines 
on  which  these  trees  were  planted,  the  plantation  not  commencing 
but  at  a  considerable  distance  therefrom  (about  two  hundred  feet 
.  .  .  )  and  so  carefully  and  accurately  had  they  been  planted,  and 
trained  and  dressed  in  accordance  each  with  the  others,  as  they 
progressed  in  their  growth,  that  from  the  point  described  as  taken 
for  the  common  centre,  and  when 
they  had  got  to  a  great  size,  only 
the  first  four  trees  were  visible. 

"More  than  once  have  I  known 
my  father,  under  whose  special 
care  this  singular  and  beautiful 
display  of  trees  had  been  arranged 
and  preserved,  and  who  set  great 
value  on  them,  amuse  his  friends 
by  inviting  some  gendeman  or 
lady  (who,  visiting  (iunston  for  the 
fir.st  time,  may  have  happened  to 
arrive  after  night,  or  may  have 
come  by  the  wa\-  of  the  river  and 
entered  by  the  otlier  front,  and  so 
not  have  seen  the  avenue)  to  the 
north  front  to  see  the  grounds,  and 
then  bv  placing  them  exactly  in 
the  middle  of  the  doorway  and 
asking,  '  How  many  trees  do  you 
see  before  you?'  ■  Four,"  would 
necessarily  be  the  answer  because 
the  fact  was  that  those  at  the  end 
of  the  four  rows  next  the  house 
completely,  and  especially  when 
in  full  leaf,  concealed  from  that 
view,  body  and  top,  all  the  others, 
though  more  than  fifty  in  each 
row.  Then  came  tlie  request. 
'  He  good  enough  to  place  your- 
self now  close  to  either  side  of  the 
doorwav,    and    then    tell    us    how 


many  you  see  r 


The  answer 


would  now  be  with  delight  and 
surprise,  but  as  necessarily,  ■  .\ 
great  number,  and  to  a  vast  ex- 
tent, but  how  many  it  is  impossible 
to  say ! '  And  in  truth  to  tlie  eje 
placed  at  only  about  two  feet  to 

the  right  or  left  of  the  tirst  position,  there  were  presented,  as  if  by 
magic,  four  long  and,  apparently,  clo.se  walls  of  wood  made  up  of 
the  bodies  of  the  trees  and.  above,  as  many  of  rich  foliage  consti- 
tuted by  their  boughs  stretching,  as  seemed,  to  an  immeasurable 
distance."  \o  vestige  remains  of  this  remarkable  avenue.  The 
manuscript  continues:  "To  the  west  of  the  main  building  were, 
first,  the  .school-house,  and  then  at  a  little  distance,  masked  by  a 
row  of  large  English  walnut  trees,  were  the  stabk-s.  To  the  east 
was  a  high-paled  vard.  adjoining  the  house,  into  which  o])ened  an 
outer  door  from  the  private  front,  within  or  connected  with  which 
yard  were  the  kitchen,  well,  poultrv-house.s.  and  other  domestic 
arrangements;  and  beyond  it  on  the  same  side  were  the  corn- 
house  and  granary,  .servants'  liouses  (in  those  days  called  negro 
quarters)  hay-yard  and  cattle-pens,  all  of  which  were  masked  by 
rows  of  large  cherrv  and  mullierry  trees.  And  adjoining  the  en- 
closed grounds  on  which  stood  tlie  mansion  and  all  these  ajipendages 
on  the  eastern  side  was  an  extensive  pasture  for  stock  of  all  kinds 
running  down  to  the  river,  through  which  led  the  road  to  the  Land- 
ing, emphatically  so-called,  where  all  persons  or  things  water 
borne  were  landed  or  taken  off.  and  where  were  ke])t  the  boats. 
pettiangers  and  canoes,  of  which  tliere  were  always  several  for 
business,  transportation,  fishing  and  hunting,  belonging  to  the  es- 
tablishment. Farther  north  and  on  the  same  side  was  an  extensive 
orchard  of  fine  fruit  trees  of  a  varietv  of  kinds.      Hevond  this  was 


Drawing-room  Window  :    Gunston   Hall 


a  small  and  high-fenced  pasture  devoted  to  a  single  brood  horse. 
The  occupant  in  my  early  days  was  named  Vulcan,  of  the  best 
stock  in  the  country.  .  .  .  The  west  side  of  the  lawn  or  enclosed 
grounds  was  skirted  by  a  wood  just  far  enough  within  which  to 
be  out  of  sight  was  a  little  village  called  L-Og-Town,  so-called 
because  most  of  the  houses  were  built  of  hewn  pine  logs.  Here 
lived  several  families  of  the  slaves  serving  about  the  mansion 
house :  among  them  were  my  father's  body-servant  James,  a 
mulatto  man.  and  his  family  and  those  of  several  negro  carpenters. 
••  The  heights  on  which  the  mansion  house  stood  extended  in  an 
east  and  west  direction  across  an  isthmus  and  were  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  estate  to  which  it  belonged.  This  contained 
something  more  than  five  thousand  acres,  and  was  called  Dogue's 
Neck  (I  believe  after  the  tribe  of  Indians  which  had  inhabited  this 
and  the  neighboring  countrv).  water-locked  bv  the  Potomac  on  the 
south,  the  Occoquan  on  the  west,  and  Fohick  Creek  (a  bold  and 
navigable  branch  of  the  Potomac)  on  the  east,  and  again  bv  Holt's 
Creek,  a  branch  of  the  Occocjuan.  that  .stretches  for  some  distance 
across  from  that  river  in  an  easterly  direction. 

■•  The  isthmus  on  the  northern  boundary  is  narrow,  and  the 
whole  estate  was  kept  conipletelv  enclosed  by  a  fence  on  that  side 
of  about  one  mile  in  length,  running  from  the  head  of  Holt's  to  the 

margin  of  Pohick  Creek.  This 
fence  was  maintained  with  great 
care  and  in  good  repair  in  my 
fatlier's  time,  in  order  to  secure  to 
his  own  stock  the  exclusive  range 
within  it,  and  made  of  uncom- 
mon height,  to  keep  in  the  native 
deer  which  had  been  preserved 
there  in  abundance  from  the  first 
settlement  of  the  country  and  in- 
deed are  yet  there  (1832)  in  con- 
siderable numbers.  The  land 
south  of  the  heights,  and  compris- 
ing more  than  nine-tenths  of  the 
estate,  was  a  uniform  level  ele- 
vated some  twentv  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  river,  with  the  e.x- 
ce])tion  of  one  extensive  marsh 
and  three  or  four  water-courses, 
which  were  accompanied  bv  some 
ravines  and  undulations  of  minor 
character,  and  about  two-thirds  of 
it  were  yet  clothed  with  the  primi- 
tive wood  ;  the  whole  of  this  level 
tract  was  embraced  in  one  view 
from  the  mansion  liouse. 

"  In  different  parts  of  this  tract, 
and  detached  from  each  other, 
my  father  worked  four  planta- 
tions with  his  own  slaves,  each 
under  an  overseer,  and  containing 
four  or  five  hundred  acres  of 
open  land.  The  crops  were  prin- 
cipallv  Indian  corn  and  tobacco: 
the  corn  for  the  suijport  of  the 
plantations  and  the  home  house, 
and  the  tobacco  for  sale.  There 
was  but  little  small  grain  made 
in  that  part  of  the  country  in 
those  days.  He  had  al.so  another  plantation  worked  in  the  same 
manner,  on  an  estate  he  had  in  Charles  Countv,  Marvland,  on 
the  Potomac  about  twenty  miles  lower  down,  at  a  place  called 
Stump  Neck. 

••It  was  very  much  the  practice  with  gentlemen  of  landed  and 
slave  estates  in  the  interior  of  \'irginia  so  to  organize  them  as  to 
have  considerable  resources  within  themselves:  to  employ  and 
pay  but  few- tradesmen  and  to  buy  little  or  none  of  the  coarse 
staffs  and  materials  used  by  them,  and  this  |)ractice  became 
stronger  and  more  general  during  the  long  period  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary War,  whicli  in  great  measure  cut  off  the  means  of  supply 
from  elsewhere.  Thus  my  father  had  among  his  slaves,  carpen- 
ters, coopers,  sawyers,  blacksmiths,  tanners,  curriers,  shoemakers, 
spinners,  weavers  and  knitters,  and  even  a  distiller.  His  woods 
furnished  timber  and  plank  for  the  car|jenters  and  coopers,  and 
charcoal  for  the  blacksmith  ;  his  cattle,  killed  for  his  own  con- 
sumption and  for  sale,  supplied  skins  for  the  tanners,  curriers  and 
shoen'iakers.  and  his  slieep  gave  wool  and  his  tields  produced 
cotton  and  flax  for  the  weavers  and  spinners,  and  his  orchards 
fruit  for  the  distiller.  His  carpenters  and  sawyers  built  and  kept 
in  repair  all  the  dwelling-houses,  barns,  stables,  ploughs,  harrows, 
gates,  etc.,  on  the  plantations  and  the  out-houses  at  the  home 
house.  His  coopers  made  the  hogsheads  the  tobacco  was  prized 
in   and  the  tight  casks  to  hold    the  cider   and   other   liquors.      The 


52 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


tanners  and  curriers,  with  the  proper  vats,  etc.,  tanned  and  dressed 
the  skins  as  well  for  upper  as  for  lower  leather  to  the  full  amount 
of  the  consumption  of  the  estate,  and  the  shoemakers  made  them 
into  slioes  for  the  negroes.  A  professed  shoemaker  was  hired  for 
three  or  four  months  in  the  year  to  come  and  make  up  the  .shoes 
for  the  white  part  of  the  family.  The  blacksmiths  did  all  the 
ironwork  required  by  the  establishment,  as  making  and  repairing 
ploughs,  harrows,  teeth-chains,  bolts,  etc. 

'•  The  spinners,  weavers  and  knitters  made  all  the  coarse  cloths 
and  stockings  used  by  the  negroes,  and  some  of  finer  texture  worn 
by  the  white  family,  nearly  all  worn  by  the  children  of  it.  The 
distiller  made  every  fall  a  good  deal  of  apple,  peach  and  persimmon 
brandv.  The  art  of  distilling  from  grain  was  not  then  among  us, 
and  but  few  public  distilleries.  All  these  operations  were  carried 
on  at  the  home  house,  and  their  results  distributed  as  occasion 
required  to  the  differ- 
ent plantations. 
Moreover  all  the 
beeves  and  hogs  for 
consumption  or  sale 
were  driven  up  and 
slaughtered  there  at 
the  proper  seasons, 
and  whatever  was  to  be 
preserved  was  salted 
and  packed  away  for 
after  distribution. 

'•  My  father  kept  no 
steward  or  clerk  about 
him.  He  kept  his  own 
books  and  superin- 
tended, with  the  assist- 
ance of  a  trusty  slave 
or  two,  and  occasion- 
ally of  some  of  his 
sons,  all  the  operations 
at  or  about  the  home 
house  above  described; 
e.xcept  that  during  the 
Revolutionary  War 
and  when  it  was  neces- 
sary to  do  a  great  deal 
in  that  way  to  clothe 
all  his  slaves,  he  had 
in  his  service  a  white 
man,  a  weaver  of  the 
finer  stuffs,  to  weave 
himself  and  superin- 
tend the  black  weav- 
ers, and  a  white  woman 
to  superintend  the 
negro  spinning-women. 
To  carry  on  these  op- 
erations to  the  extent 
required,  it  will  be 
seen  that  a  consider- 
able force  was  neces- 
sary, besides  the  house 
servants,  wlio  for  such 
a  household,  a  large 
family  and  entertaining 
a  great  deal  of  com- 
pany, must  be  numer- 
ous —  and  such  a 
force  was  constantly 
kept  there,  independ- 
ently of  any  of  the 
plantations,  and  be- 
sides occasional  drafts  from  them  of  labor  for  particular  occasions. 
As  I  had  during  my  youth  constant  intercourse  with  all  these 
people,  I  remember  them  all  and  their  several  employments,  as  if 
it  was  yesterday.  As  it  will  convey  a  better  idea  of  the  state  of 
the  family  and  the  habits  of  the  times,  I  will  describe  them  all." 

General  Mason's  manuscript  "ends  abruptly  just  at  this 
point,"  says  the  author  of  the  "Life  of  George  Mason,"  but 
she  adds  in  a  note  :  — 

"There  are  said  to  have  been  five  hundred  persons  on  the 
estate,  including  the  several  quarters.  And  Colonel  Mason 
[Mason  of  Gunston  bore  this  title]  is  reported  to  have 
shipped  from  his  own  wharf  at  one  time  23,000  bushels  of 
wheat."  Another  chronicler  records  "five  large  cargoes  of 
tobacco,  packed  in  the  old-fashioned  hogsheads." 


Rear  Porch:    Gunston  Hall. 


The  chief  of  this  little  principality  was,  among  his  other 
accomplishments,  a  finished  sportsman.  Dogue's  Neck  was 
famous  for  its  game,  and  afforded  abundance  of  wild  fowl, 
with  turkeys  and  deer  for  big  game.  The  region  had  been 
the  favorite  camping-ground  of  the  neighboring  Indians,  who 
had  a  village  —  "  Assaomek  " — -at  a  place  about  four  miles 
below  Alexandria,  now  called  Andalusia,  where  stone  axes, 
javelin  and  arrow  heads  have  been  excavated  in  great  num- 
bers.    Capt.  John  Smith  landed  at  this  village  in  1608. 

Mason's  neighbors  of  Belvoir  and  Mount  Vernon  were 
often  his  guests  at  Gunston  when  the  shooting  was  on. 

Gunston  Hall  is  about  a  half  mile,  as  the  crow  flies,  from 

the  river,  on  Gunston 
Cove.  Belvoir,  the 
Fairfax  seat,  was  on 
Fairfax  point,  north 
across  the  cove. 
Mount  Vernon  is  on 
another  point  about 
five  miles  farther 
up.  Belvoir  is  de- 
scribed as  not  unlike 
Gunston  Hall,  and 
life  there  was  on  the 
same  lines.  The 
house  was  burned 
during  the  Revolu- 
tion after  Fairfax's 
departure  for  Eng- 
land.  Springfield 
and  Bradley  were 
gentlemen's  places 
near  Gunston. 

A  son  of  Colonel 
Mason's  was  later 
established  at  the 
Occoquan  estate  of 
Woodbridge,  and  he 
built  Hollin  Hall,  in 
Fairfax  County,  not 
far  from  Mount  Ver- 
non, for  another  son. 
This  was  a  very  un- 
pretentious wooden 
house  of  one  story 
with  taller  wings. 

The  scale  draw- 
ings^ of  Gunston 
Hall  will  sufficiently 
indicate  the  char- 
acter of  its  construc- 
tion, which  is  in  re- 
spect of  design,  of 
material  and  of  finish,  superior  to  that  of  Mount  Vernon. 
It  may  well  stand  as  a  type  of  the  Potomac  plantation 
"  mansion  houses  "  of  the  period. 

Good  cellars,  with  windows  above  ground,  run  under  the 
entire  building,  with  wine-vaults,  an  oven,  and  recesses  in 
the  solid  brickwork  which  served  for  cold  storage.  "  Heie 
was  stored  the  old  Madeira,  the  favorite  imported  wine  of 
the  early  Virginian." 

The  exterior  is  dignified,  although  but  one  story  in  height, 
with  walls  laid  up  in  Flemish  bond  of  large  brick,  probably 
of  native  make,  cut-stone  quoins  at  the  angles,  high  roof 
pierced  with  dormers,  and   tall  stone-capped  chimneys.     It 

^  Page  50  and  Plate  36,  Part  W. 


GUXSrON  HALL,    VIRGLNIA. 


S3 


has  in  later  years  suffered  the  indignity  of  a  coat  of  yellow 
paint,  and  the  fine  lines  of  the  roof  are  marred  by  what 
the  "  Life  of  George  Mason  "  aptly  describes  as  "  a  sort  of 
villa  tower  .  .  .  for  viewing  the  landscape." 

The  old  square  porch,  with  its  flight  of  free-stone  steps,  is 
as  it  was,  and  otherwise  the  house  has,  on  three  sides,  under- 
gone little  change.  Against  the  north  gable  the  present 
proprietor  —  the  house  has  long  since  passed  out  of  the 
possession  of  the  family  —  has  erected  a  large  wooden  addi- 
tion, which  contains  the  present  kitchen,  etc.  The  other 
changes  noticed  are  not  chargeable  to  him,  and  the  house  is 
fortunately  now  in  careful  hands.  There  was  apparently 
a  pediment  above  the  arch  of  the  front  door,  which  has 
disappeared. 

In  the  pointed  arches  of  the  "pretty  pentagal  porch,"  on 
the  garden  side,  one  might  be  inclined  to  trace  a  survival  of 
late  Gothic  ideas,  but  that  the  "  Lfe"  refers  to  its  "carved 
red  and  white  pillars  and  lattice-work,"  which  would  seem  to 
suggest  that  its  present  form  is 
a  modification  of  later  days,  al- 
though in  truth  it  appears  to  be 
quite  as  venerable  as  the  rest  of 
the  building. 

"The  porches  on  both  sides 
of  the  house  are  embowered  in 
fragrant  rose  bushes,  so  vener- 
able from  their  size  that  they 
look  as  though  they  might  have 
flourished  here  a  hundred  years 
ago."  These  are  gone,  but 
younger  rose-trees  bloom  all 
round  about  the  house.  The 
lawns  are  well  kept,  and  there 
are  some  efforts  at  ornamental 
gardening,  among  them  some 
cedars  successfully  clipped  into 
quaint  shapes.  The  latter  have 
attracted  the  interest  of  a  neigh- 
boring small  farmer,  who  has 
been  scouring  the  forests  in 
quest  of  the  like,  and  cannot 
comprehend  why  they  grow  only 
in  the  Gunston  woods.  A  long, 
straight  path,  between  two  tall 
rows  of  ancient  box-hedge,  leads 
away  to  the  "falls,"  —  as  they 
were  called, — terraces  made  where  the  level  ground  ceases 
and  the  land  slopes  down  to  the  river.  At  the  foot  of  the 
terrace  a  garden  i^  geometrical  figures  has  been  laid  out,  so 
that  the  whole  has  somewhat  the  effect  of  formal  gardening. 
"And  one  looks  down  here,  from  a  considerable  elevation, 
on  the  beautiful  river,  on  wood,  and  field,  and  pasture  .  .  . 
an  altogether  enchanting  prospect." 

The  school-house  and  the  old  gray  stone  well-curb,  under 
roof,  alone  survive  of  the  original  out-buildings.  The  hall  is 
wide  and  high.  The  rooms  also  are  high,  spacious,  and  well- 
proportioned.  The  principal  carving  is  in  the  southeast 
room,  formerly  the  drawing  room,  on  the  authority  of  the 
''Life."  Here  the  doors,  windows,  cornice,  panelling,  and 
alcoves  by  the  chimney-breast,  are  richly  carved,  the  work 
having  been  done  by  convicts  from  England.' 

It  is  said  that  a  descendant  of  the  artisan  who  spent  so 
much  loving  labor  on  the  decoration  of  this  room  is  living 
somewhere  in  the  neighborhood.  It  is  a  pity  that  tiie  name 
of  the  man  is  not  remembered. 

'John  Esten  Cooke  in  -Historic  Homes  of  Virginia." 


The  great  wide  fireplaces  of  the  olden  time  have  been 
altered  in  conformity  with  modern  ideas  of  comfort,  and  the 
superb  mantelpiece  that  was  once  to  be  seen  in  the  drawing- 
room  has  long  since  disappeared.  The  alcoves,  richly  or- 
namented with  carving,  and  furnished  with  shelves,  "held 
old  china,  silver  and  bric-a-brac."  "  A  space  was  left  over  . 
the  mantel,  framed  in  the  woodwork,  to  hold  a  mirror  or  a 
picture.  The  drawing-room  was  formerly  handsomely  wain- 
scoted in  walnut  and  mahogany."  The  doors  throughout  are 
said  to  be  of  mahogany,  but  they  and  most  of  the  woodwork 
are  now  painted  white. 

The  dining-room,  as  it  was  presumably  in  Colonel  Mason's 
time,  since  it  was  so  used  by  his  descendants,  opens  into  the 
parlor  or  drawing-room,  and  is  of  the  same  size. 

The  wainscoting  and  cornices  here  are  less  elaborate,  and 
on  each  side  of  the  mantel  is  a  deep  closet  instead  of  an 
alcove.  The  two  corresponding  rooms  across  tlie  hall  are 
separated  by  a  narrow  passage  and  at  the  end  of  the  latter 

was  the  back  staircase  leading 
up  to  the  second  floor  and  the 
stairs  leading  down  into  the  cel- 
lars. Both  of  these  stairways 
have  been  closed  up  within 
recent  years.  The  passage 
opened  out  on  a  little  porch  with 
an  arched  doorway.  Of  the  two 
rooms  on  this  side  of  the  hall, 
the  one  opposite  the  drawing- 
room  was  occupied  by  Colonel 
Mason  and  his  wife,  and  was 
called,  in  the  old  Virginia  par- 
lance, "the  chamber."-  The 
other  room  was  the  nursery  in 
the  days  of  Colonel  Mason's 
grandchildren,  and  in  all  proba- 
bility it  was  used  for  the  same 
purpose  by  the  earlier  Gunston 
household. 

But  if  this  were  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  rooms,  a  glance  at 
the  plan  shows  that  it  affords 
no  convenience  of  serving  meals 
in  the  dining-room.  (General 
Mason's  manuscript  also  puts 
the  kitchen,  well,  etc.,  on  the 
side  where  was  the  narrow  pas- 
sage between  the  rooms,  which  latter  would  have  allowed  for 
service  into  the  dining-room  placed  where  it  now  is,  with  the 
drawing-room  opposite  across  the  hall. 

Resuming  the  description  of  the  "Life"  we  read:  — 

".Ascending;  the  wide  staircase  in  the  liall  (handsomely  finished 
in  nialiOi;any)  lialf-way  up,  over  the  first  landinj;,  is  a  window  in 
the  wall,  correspondinjj  to  one  over  tlie  front  door.  At  the  liead 
of  the  stairs  tliere  are  tliree  arches  supported  on  four  pillars,  one  on 
each  side  ai^ainst  tlie  wall  and  two  in  tlie  centre.  .  .  .  The  rooms 
on  the  second  floor  open  on  eacli  side  of  a  hall  which  riuis  at  right 
angles  to  the  hall  below,  and  terminates  at  each  gable-end  of  the 
house.  These  rooms  are  small  and  low-pitched,  with  dormer- 
windows  and  wide,  low  window-seats.  A  steej)  staircase  leads  ii]) 
from  one  of  tliese  rooms  into  tlie  attics,  where  were  kept,  fifty 
years  ago.  old  disused  spinning-wheels  and  siiinning-machines  that 
had  doubtless  seem  good  service  in  colonial  days.  A  round 
window  at  each  end  of  the  house  lights  this  u])per  region. 

George  Mason,  as  has  been  already  said,  continued  patenting 

"  It  seems  likely,  however,  that  tliis  room  was  tlie  guest-cluiiiibjr 
at  one  time,  as  tradition  avers  that  Washington.  Jefferson.  Richard 
Henry  Lee.  and  otliers  of  the  eminent  men  of  the  time  have  slc|)t 
in  this  room.  In  botli  of  these  rooms  are  deep  closets  like  those 
in  the  dining-room.  —  •'  Life  of  George  Afason." 


54 


THE   GJ-lOKGfAX  PERIOD. 


and   purchasing   new   tracts   of   land    until   his  estates   were  Colonel  Mason.  ...  In  the  fall  of  l/yr,  Washington  records  a 

very  larire.      His  course  in  this  particular  agreed  with  that  of  ^'f'' "^  '"^  to  (;un.ston  Hall.     He  set  off  on  the  27th  of  October, 

,.'.,,  „,     ,  ■      ,  TT-        ,  c   ,,,       n    -A        I  '-before    sunrise    with    John    Custis    for    Colo.    Mason's."'     After 

his   neighbor,   Washington.      His   place   of   Woodbndge   lay  breakfast  they  went  hunting  in  Mason's  Neck,  and  killed  two  deer, 

opposite    the  town  of    Colchester    on    the  Occoquan.     The  They  hunted  again  the  next  day,  but  killed  nothini';  and  on  the 

Woodbridge  house  is  gone.      Hollin   Hall  still    stands  four  29th  they  went  to  the  vestry  meeting  at  Tohick  Chu''rch,  VVashing- 

•1       r           (I           J  •            ^i        1  1  u     -1      "         J       T       •      ^  to"  returning  to  Mount  Vernon  that  evenini'.     Thev  were  build- 
miles  from  A  e.xandria  on  the  old  "pike     road.      Le.\ington,  ■,„    ,,,„  „    "    ,        ,      ^    1,  i  ■  ,       ,     "-"^'"ft-,    '  "«->  ""c  uuuu 

V  &       '  ing    the  new  church  at    Pohick    about   this   time,  and  Washing- 

whose  house  was  lately  burned,  •■  is  tlie  only  one  of  George  ton    and    Mason    mu.st    have    met   frequendy    at   conferences   of 

the  Building  Committee. 


Mason's  Virginia  estates 
that  remains  in  the 
hands  of  any  of  his 
descendants."  ^ 

Many  charming  pic- 
tures of  ante-bellum  life 
at  Gunston  Hall  may 
be  gathered  from  vari- 
ous sources,  among 
them  the  private  jour- 
nals of  Washington, 
which  contain  many 
records  of  his  intimacy 
with  Mason.  They 
went  together  to  hunts, 
races  and  balls,  to  elec- 
tions, court  sessions 
and  vestry  meetings. 
Colonel  Mason  was 
often  at  Mount  Vernon, 
and  Washington  at 
Gunston.      They  spent 


I'lie  Siairca: 


It  is  no  part  of  our 
task  here  to  enter  upon 
a  recital  of  the  great 
part  George  Mason 
played  in  the  grand 
events  of  the  Revolu- 
tion, of  the  great  share 
he  had  in  securing  to 
this  country  a  republican 
form  of  government. 
That  is  the  part  of  the 
historian,  and  to  every 
student  of  our  history 
George  Mason  stands 
in  the  front  rank  of 
great  Americans.  To 
Madison  he  was  the 
"ablest  debater,"  to 
Jefferson  the  "  wisest 
man  of  his  generation." 
In  person  he  was  a  fine 


days  in  the  woods  together,  surveying  the  bounds  of  their      man,  above  the  medium  height,  a  man  of  social  parts,  a  o-enial 

well-read,  cultivated  gentleman.  Of  this  culture  we  have  an 
instance  in  the  design  and  legend  of  the  State  Seal  of  Vii- 
ginia,  which  were  his  work.  These  notes  have  sought  merely 
to  outline  the  manner  of  man  it  was  who  built  this  old  man- 
sion house  of  "Gunston  Hall,"  and  of  the  lil'e  he  led  there, 
and  to  give  some  hint  of  the  memories  which  hang  about  the 
place.  He  died  there  in  1792,  perhaps  of  his  old  enemy 
the  gout,  which  he  had  doubtless  braved  for  many  a  year  over 
many  a  bottle  of  the  famous  old  Madeira,  and  lies  buried  in 
the  family  burial-place  on  his  own  land,  after  the  old  custom 
of  his  day,  his  grave  unmarked  until  of  late  years,  and  even 
now  unworthily.  A.  Burnley  Bibu. 


contiguous  lands.     They  held  together  weighty  councils  on 

the  questions  of  the  times. 

There  was  a  dancing-school  in  this  j-ear,  1770,  for  the  young 
people  of  the  neighborliood.  and  it  met  by  turns  at  the  different 
country-places,  or  perhaps  alternately  at  Mount  \'ernon  and  (iuns- 
ton  Hall.  Mr.  Christian  was  the  dancing-teacher,  it  would  ap- 
pear. Washington  records  on  the  28th  of  April:  "Patsy  Custis 
and  Millv  Posey  went  to  Colo.  Mason's  to  the  Dancing  School.'' 
Martha  Custis,  the  lovely  young  daughter  of  Mrs.  Washington, 
was  then  about  thirteen  years  old.  One  day  in  July  Mr.  Christian 
and  all  his  scholars  came  to  the  dancing  at  Mount  \'ernon. 
Earlv  in  1771  we  hear  of  the  two  friends.  Washington  and  Mason, 
meeting  at  Colchester,  January  23,  and  going  together  to  Dumfries 
on  some  law  business.  At  night  Washington  went  to  see  the  play 
of   '■  The   Recruiting   Officers,"  most  probably  in  company  witii 


Some  Homes  of  the  Washington  Family. 


WHEN  one  thinks  of  a  Washington  home  it  is 
of  Mount  Vernon,  with  its  rolling  lawn,  broad 
gardens  and  wide  water.  But  many  miles 
from  Mount  Vernon,  guarded  by  rugged  hills, 
amidst  wild  and  romantic  scenery,  stand  other  Washington 
mansions,  not  quite  so  lordly  as  the  American  Mecca,  but 
si)acious  and  comfortable.  Lawrence  \\'ashington,  half- 
brother  to  George  Washington,  bought  large  areas  of  land  in 
Frederick  County,  West  Virginia;  he  always  lived  at  Mount 
Vernon,  but  held  his  Western  p  ssessions  as  an  investment. 

'^  Life  of  George  Mason,  Rowland. 


His  younger  half-brothers,  Samuel,  John  Augustine  and 
Charles,  also  bought  land  in  the  wild  frontier,  built  houses, 
and  left  them  to  their  sons,  whose  descendants  owned  them 
until  a  few  years  ago,  when  the  pathetic  fate  of  most  Virgin- 
ian manor-houses  was  theirs  :   they  fell  into  stranger  hands. 

These  Washington  brothers  were  leading  men  in  their  day 
and  generation  ;  they  entered  boldly  into  frontier  life,  hunted 
the  fo.x  and  bigger  game,  joined  other  "good  fellows"  at 
the  old  Cherry  Tavern,  where  Washington  the  Great,  Jeffer- 
son, Madison  and  Lafayette  had  often  slept  before  them. 

The  old  deed  may  still  be  seen  which  deposes  that  "  Major 


SOME  HOMES   OF  THE    WASHINGTON  FAMH.Y. 


55 


Lawrence  Washington  bought  of  one  Samuel  Walker  loo 
acres  of  land  on  the  west  side  of  '  Shunnundore '  River, 
being  a  portion  of  the  original  grant  to  Tost  Hite."  Many 
interesting  facts   about   this   locality  may  be   gleaned  from 


tap  the  window-panes  and  caress  the  grim  stone  gable-ends. 
The  interior  consists  of  vast  halls  and  wide  rooms ;  there 
is  a  lot  of  heavy  wood  panelling,  carved  balusters  and  ornate 
doorways.  The  house  was  planned  by  George  Washington, 
and  Lafayette  presented  the  black-marble  mantelpieces 
which  adorn  some  of  the  rooms. 


■  FIRST  ■  Floor  Pla/hj  ■ 


■SEtorro   Tlxor  Plan- 


Claymont  Court.    [Full  lines  indicate  original  Work  ] 


George  Washington's  field-book,  called,  '■'■  A  Journal  of  My 
Journey  over  the  Mountains,  begun  Friday,  the  Eleventh  of 
March,  1747-8." 

Colonel  Samuel  Washington,  the  oldest  of  the  West  Vir- 
ginian settlers,  began  his  life  there  in  a  log-cabin,  of  course. 
He  was  a  rollicking  sort  of  a  fellow,  surrounded  by  an  army 
of  horses  and  dogs  —  fond  of  getting  married,  too,  for  from 
his  early  manhood  to  his  grave  a  succession  of  five  good 
women  called  him  husband.     Years  added  to  his  honor  and 


The  room  of  all  the  rooms  at  Harewood  is  the  big  parlor 
where  the  charming  widow,  Dolly  Todd,  plighted  her  troth 
to  the  stout  little  book-worm,  James  Madison.  It  is  a  vast 
room  with  heavy  wainscoting  and  wide  window-seats,  and  as 
we  stand  within  we  fancy  we  see  the  lovely  widow  and  her 
grave  second  husband,  who  was  richer  in  virtue  and  learning 
than  in  inches.  Dolly's  sister  married  George  Steptoe  Wash- 
ington, the  son  of  Samuel  Washington,  when  she  was  but 
fifteen,  and  in  consequence  the  Widow  Todd  and  iier  little 


wm^. 


■■■{  ^w"^^ 


Claymotit  Court:    Home  of  IJiislirod  Washington. 

his  fortune,  and   he  built   "  Harewood,"   one    of    the   most  boy  lived  at   Harewood.     Dolly  vowed  she  never  meant  to 

fascinating  country  houses  in  America.  marry  after  the    death    of    her  first  husband,   the  Quaker, 

It  is  situated  in  a  country  full  of  picturesque  beauty,  and  (olin  Todd,  but  siie  was  so  pretty  and  so  young,  and  entirely 

the  house  itself  is  a  gem  of  eighteenth-century  architecture,  fascinating,  even  as  a. child  wiien  her  mother  sewed  a  white 

an  imposing  stone  mansion,  moss-grown  now  and  darkened  linen  mask  to  her  hair  to  keep  off  the  sunburn,  and  crowned 

by  Time's  finger-prints;  the  long  branches  of  fine  trees  almost  her  with  a  long-eared  calico  bonnet  beside;  she  was  a  good 


56 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


wife  to  her  first  husband  and  tried  to  be  silent  and  demure  which  was  built  in   1750,  a  quaint  old  mill,  with  its  clumsy 

througli  her  widowhood,  but  her  youth  and  beauty  asserted  wheel  and  busy  mill-race. 

themselves  and  won  the  love  of  a  President.     When  she  first  Charies  Washington   gave  up   the  log-cabin    as  the  town 

met  him  she  was  dressed  in  a  mulberry-colored  satin,  with  a  grew  and  erected  a  spacious  mansion,  as  his  brothers  did. 

tulle  kerchief  over  her  plump  neck,  and  a  cap  upon  her  head,  The  house  still  stands,  and  while  it  is  not  so  imposing  as 


H 


:k.^ 


".:^j 


Harewood,  nor  as 
vast  as  Claymont 
Court,  it  may  easily 
take  its  place  as  one 
of  the  stately  homes 
of  West  Virginia. 
Like  many  old  Vir- 
ginian houses,  it  has 
many  additions,  use- 
ful after-thoughts, 
and  the  kitchen  and 
servants'  houses  join 
the  house  through 
walled  passages. 

Lewis  William 
Washington  was  the 
son  of  George  Corbin 
Washington,  who 
was  the  son  of  Wil- 
liam Augustine 
Washington,  who 
was  son  of  Augustine  Washington  and  nephew  of  George 
Washington. 

George  Corbin  Washington  married  a  Miss  Beall  and 
called  his  home  "  Beall  Air."  This  house  is  very  antique, 
built  of  stone  with  thick  walls.  Lewis  Washington,  the  son 
of  George  Corbin  Washington,  made  additions  and  lived  here 
for  many  years.  It  was  often  under  fire  in  the  last  war 
clous  wings,  great  halls  and  many  windows  ;  the  irregidar  when  first  one  army  and  then  the  other  marched  up  and 
building  encloses  two  square  courtyards  and  stretches  out  by  down  tlie  beautiful  Shenandoah  Valley.  The  place  was  so 
brick  corridors  to  the  old  slave  quarters.  The  interior  is  a  exposed  that  the  family  was  compelled  to  fly,  and  it  was 
picture  of  mellow  beauty,  panelled  walls  and  carved  wood-  taken  possession  of  by  the  United  States  Government  under 
work  give  it  the  air  of  ancient  elegance,  while  the  rooms  and  the  Confiscation  Act,  but  restored  to  its  owner  in  1866,  very 
halls  shame  the  cut-up  apartments  of  most  modern  houses,  desolate  and  much  injured.  Col.  Lewis  Washington  was 
Mr.  Wm.  A.  ISates,  a  New  York  architect,  visited  Claymont  taken  prisoner  at  midnight  by  a  party  of  John  Brown's  men 
Court  not  long  ago  and  repaired  the  interior  without  marring  and  was  released  only  when  the  raiders  were  imprisoned  at 
its  original  design.  Harper's  Ferry  by  the  United  States  marines,  under  Major 

Charles  Washington  went  forth  into  the  wilderness,  too,      Robert  E.  Lee  and  Lieutenant  J.  E.  B.  Stuart. 

Beall  Air  is  now  owned  by  Col.  G.  W.  Z.  Black,  and  the 


but  the  saucy,  wan- 
ton curls  would  creep 
out.  When  she 
went  to  town  during 
her  widowhood  an 
older  friend  said  to 
her,  "  Dolly,  thee 
must  hide  thy  face, 
there  are  so  many 
staring  at  thee." 

The  place  where 
she  stood  is  pointed 
out  with  pride.  It 
was  in  the  middle  of 
the  best  room  in 
beautiful  Harewood; 
on  the  wall  used  to 
hang  a  portrait  of 
the  fox-hunting,  jolly 
squire,  Samuel 
Washington,  be- 
ruffled  and  ruddy,  with  dog  and  gur,  and  beside  him  one  of 
his  five  wives,  the  favorite  one,  we  suppose. 

John  Augustine  Washington's  home  was  in  West  Virginia, 
too;  whether  the  present  grand  mansion,  "Claymont  Court," 
stands  on  tlie  site  of  his  first  log-cabin  is  not  known  ;  it  was, 
however,  owned  by  his  son  Bushrod,  and  is  now  a  splendid 
specimen  of  irregular  architecture,  with  colonnades  and  spa- 


Home  of  Charles  Washington. 


Harewood:    Home  of  Richard  Washington.  Keiiniore:    Home  of  Lewis  Washington. 

and  built  his  cabin  in  the  midst  of  a  great  forest.     Gradually  last  Washington  who   owned  it  is  a  citizen  of   New  York, 

a  settlement  rose  upon  his  possessions ;  then  a  town,  which  These  old  houses  stand  amidst  high  hills  and  green  valleys, 

was  named  for  him.  But  the  Washingtons  are  scattered.     Neither  Mount  Vernon, 

Charlestown    stands    where    Braddock's    army   marched,  nor  Kenmore,  nor  Harewood,  nor  Claymont  Court  is  owned 

Near  by  is  a  well  of  limpid  water,  which  tradition  says  was  by  any  relative  of  George  Washington, 
dug  by  one  of  liraddock's  soldiers ;  there  is  an  old  mill,  too,  Sally  Nelson  Robins. 


Annapolis  on  the  Severn. 


VERY  unlike  any  other  town  in  the  country  is  An-  Like  some  cathedral  towns,  it  has  its  one  building  of  im- 
napolis,  and  though  it  does   not  have  the  air  of  portance,   in   whose  service  and  maintenance  most   of  the 
being  a  foreign  city  as  has  Quebec  it  has  quite  as  inhabitants  seem  lo  be  employed,  and  because  of  such  em- 
much    individuality   and    hardly   le^s   interest   for  ployment  seem  to  have  absorbed  an  air  of  exoteric  respecta- 
even  the  occasional  observer.     Like  Portsmouth,  N.   H.,  it  bility.     The  building  here  is  not  cathedral  or  church,  but 


*' Acton,'*  the   Home  of  the  Murrays. 


has  the  appearance  of  belonging  to  and  being  lived  in  by  the  quaint  State-house,  with  its  illuminated  cupola  above  the 

people  of  refinement,  and  it  seems  as  if  what  little  business  dome,  which  serves  as  light-house  for  the  infrequent  coaster 

is  transacted  there  must  be  wholly  restricted  to  meeting  the  beating  up  the  Severn  or  the  more  numerous  boats  of  the 

daily  wants  of  the  inhabitants  in  the  matter  of  provisions,  oyster  fleet  as  they  seek  the  harbor  for  their  crews'  Sunday 

including  tobacco  and,  perhaps,  the  repairing  of  clothes.  rest,     .\bout    this    building  not  only  the  daily  life  of    the 

.17 


58 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


citizens  revolves,  but  about  it,  too,  they  are  forced  to  make  and  replaced  by  lawns,  terraced  gardens  and  meadows  run- 
corporeal  revolutions,  since  it  crowns  the  liill  on  which  the  ning  down  to  the  wnter,  each  having  the  air  of  individuality 
city  is  built,  and  from  the  encircling  street  that  encloses  it  that  still  lingers  about  "Actor',"  the  home  of  the  Murrays, 
radiate  downhill  in  jjractically  every  direction  the  short  which  lies  just  outside  the  town,  and  is  as  yet  not  included  in 
streets  that  run  to  the  water's  edge  on  what  may  be  called  the  slow  advance  of  real-estate  improvements.  A  very  snug 
three  sides,  these  radial  streets  being  connected  together  in  and  closely  bound  little  society  it  was  that  lived  there,  mar- 
a  somewliat  irregular  fashion  by  straigiit  streets,  which  thus  rying  and  intermarrying  and  keeping  close  count  of  who 
in  their  turn  surround  the  Slate-house  with  irregular  polygons,  was  who,  as  the   inhabitants  do  to  this  day,  as   the  writer 


The  street-plan  of  the  city  is 
not  absolutel)'  symmetrical,  but 
it  is  essentially  the  cobweb-plan, 
and  the  roads  would  lead  the 
stranger  to  the  ctntre  of  the 
town  by  the  shortest  route  even 
if  the  State-house  were  not 
visible  from  all  parts.  Not  only 
is  the  plan  of  the  town  sensible 
and  convenient,  but  no  better 
site  for  a  town  could  have  been 
found,  in  view  of  the  manners 
and  customs  of  the  time,  for 
then  not  only  was  all  merchan- 
dise water-borne,  but  social  in- 
tercourse was  possible  only  by 
boat  or  vessel  of  some  descrip- 
tion.    As  the  chief  town  '  of  the 


Tlie  Chase   House.     [1770.] 


knows,  for  chancing  to  ask  a 
question  of  a  gentleman  at  the 
hotel  about  the  character  of  the 
"places"  on  the  "Eastern 
Shore,"  he  went  off  at  score, 
telling  not  only  what  they  were 
but  who  owned  them  now,  hav- 
ing acquired  title  by  marrying 
the  daughter  of  one  or  the  son 
of  another,  and  incidentally  dis- 
closing the  fact  that  he  himself 
was  related  to  most  of  the  per- 
sons he  named.  In  those  days 
there  was  time  to  cultivate 
otlier  things  than  tobacco,  and 
the  social  graces  received  much 
consideration,  since  between  the 
occasional    arrivals    of    vessels 


State  implied  the  presence  there  of  the  resiliences  of  many  from  the  old  country  the  inhabitants  had  plenty  of  unoccu- 

of  the  chief   men   of   the   State,   and    as   each  gentleman  of  pied   lime,  and  being  thrown  on  their  own  resources,  learned 

means  and  standing  would  desire  to  have  a  water-front  of  his  to  value  the  time  that   intervened  between  the  periods  of 

own,  the  founders  of  the  place  perceived   the  great  advan-  spasmodic  commercial  activity,  because  it  gave  opportunity 

tages  afforded  by  the  site  now  occupied   by  Annapolis,  for  for  neighborly  visitations  of  days'  or  weeks'  duration,  up  and 

not  only  was  there  here  a  hill  which  afforded  a  most  sati.s-  down  the  bay,  on  one  shore  or  the  other.     Amongst  other 

factory   site,   but    the   peninsula    upon    which    it    stood    was  things  the  colonists  learned  to  cultivate  was  patience,  a  virtue 

surrounded  on  three  sides  by  deep  water,  and  it  was  easy  to  which  must  have  been  sorely  tried  when  the  original  owners 

see  that  here  might  be  found  water  frontage  so  conveniently  undertook  to  build  these  substantial  brick  houses,  using  for 

arranged  that  each  owner  of  an  estate  might  have  his  private  the  walls  the  imported  brick  which  was  brought  as  ballast 

landing-place  or  wharf,  with  his  mansion  within  easy  reach  in  the  light-freighted  vessels  that  came  to  load  up  with  heavy 

from  it,  and  yet  each  man's  home  be  brought  within  such  rea-  hogsheads  of  tobacco.     It   required  six  or  seven  years  to 


sonable  distance  of 
his  neighbors'  homes 
that  he  suffered  none 
of  that  feeling  of  re- 
moteness and  isola- 
tion that  must,  now 
and  again,  have 
weighed  on  the 
spirits  of  the  dwellers 
in  some  of  the  manor- 
houses  along  the 
courses  of  the  Vir- 
ginia rivers.  \  very 
snug  and  social  little 
neighborhood  A  n  - 
napolis  must  have 
been  found  to  be  in 
its  earlier  days,  and 
in  those  days  An- 
napolis rejoiced  in  and  deserved  the  name  of  the  "  Social 
Athens  of  America."  ']"o-day  as  one  looks  about  the  town 
it  is  easy  to  imagine  some  of  the  later  buildings  cleared  away 


Harwood  House,  Annapolis.     [1770-80.] 


build  some  of  the 
brick  mansions  on 
the  Virginia  rivers, 
and  probably  some 
of  these  Annapolitan 
houses  took  hardly 
less  time.  Another 
virtue  that  waxed 
stalwart  because  of 
this  closeness  of 
companionship  was 
neighborly  good-will 
and  common-sense, 
and  one  instance  of 
it  is  this :  Perhaps 
the  most  notable  two 
houses  in  the  little 
city,  holding  the  eye 
as  much  by  their  en- 
tire dissimilarity  as  by  their  intrinsic  merit,  are  the  two  that 
stand  face  to  face  on  the  corners  of  Maryland  Avenue  and 
King  George  Street,  the  house  of  Judge  Samuel  Chase,  still 


'  Mauvi.axd's  FiKST  Caimtai..  —  Tlic  t;hc.s;ii)eake  and  Point 
Lookout  Railroad  has  just  acquired  .St.  Marv's  Citv,  the  oi-it;inal 
capital  of  Maryland,  oji  the  St.  .Mary's  River,  Soutliern  Atarvland," 
and  is  to  mark  that  fact  by  tlie  erci  tion  of  a  suitable  stone'.  St. 
Mary's  City  to-day  is  still  n-nnitc;  and  rcDiiantic.  and  almost  as 
lonely  as  when  first  siylucd  1)\  l.r.miurl  (  al\irt.  It  is  forlv  miles 
from   a  telegraph-station,   aiui   is   \i.sited  onh    three   times  a  week 


by  the  l)oals.  Stones  outline  the  site  where  once  stood  the  old 
frame  court-house  built  by  Calvert.  .A  Colonial  mansion,  now 
used  as  a  young  ladies'  seminary  and  post-office  combined,  a  little 
ICpiscopal  church  and  its  rectory,  and  an  old  gravevard,  filled  with 
weather-beaten  head  stones  dating  liack  to  the  seventeenth  and 
the  beginning  of  the  eighteenth  centurv.  comprise  all  that  is  left 
of  a  once  i)rosperous  and  happ_\-  city. —  Washington  Post. 


ANNAPOLIS   ON  THE   SEVKRN. 


59 


known  by  his  surname,  and  that  of  Mr.  William  Hammond,     would  not  only  build  an  additional  story  on  his  own  house, 
now  known  as  the  '•  Harwood  house"  :  the  former  somewhat     but  would  bear  the  cost  of  building  the  wing  pavilions  which 


imposing  and  much 
more  lofty  than  any 
other  in  the  city,  but 
rectangular  and,  be- 
cause of  its  heignt, 
not  in  good  propor- 
tion as  a  mass  —  in- 
deed it  is  said  that 
the  building  was  in- 
tended  to  have 
wings,  but  was  sold 
before  it  was  finished 
and  the  original 
scheme  of  building 
was  not  carried  out. 
The  Harwood  house, 
designed  by  Mr. 
Buckland,  on  the 
other  hand,  has  but 
two  rather  low  sto- 
ries and  its  plan  ex- 
hibits the  typical 


Tlie  Brice  [Jennings]  House.    [1740.] 


would  be  needed  to 
provide  the  rooms 
sacrificed  by  keeping 
the  Hammond  house 
low.  How  far  this 
legend  is  borne  out 
by  the  arrangement 
of  the  plan  cannot 
be  told,  as  the  latter 
house  is  not  now 
easy  of  access,  but  it 
is  said  that  the  foun- 
dation walls  are  five 
feet  thick,  which 
would  seem  to  be- 
token preparation 
for  a  greater  height 
of  wall  than  was 
actually  placed  on 
them.  This  dwell- 
ing, now  known  as 
the  Harwood  house, 


southern  arrangement,  a  central  building  with  lianking  pa- 
vilions connected  to  the  main  body  of  the  house  by  one-story 
galleries.  The  two  houses  are  about  as  unlike  as  they  well 
could  be,  and  their 
unlikeness,  in  so  far 
as  altitude  is  con- 
cerned, is  explained 
by  local  legend  thus- 
wise  :  Both  owners 
were  building  at  the 
same  time,  but 
whether  it  was  Judge 
Chase  or  Governor 
Lloyd  (to  whom  he 
sold  his  unfinished 
house)  who  made  the 
discovery,  we  do  not 
know,  but  it  was  one 
day  borne  in  upon 
one  of  them  that  if 
Mr.  Hammond  built 
a  high  house,  then 
all  the  beautiful 
water-view  would  be 
lost  to  the  occupants 
of  the  Chase  house, 
and  a  prime  motive 
for  selecting  that 
particular  site  would 
have  been  proved 
abortive.  Mr.  Ham- 
mond, when  the  di- 
lemma was  pointed 
out,  saw  and  appre- 
ciated it,  but  what 
could  he  do?  He 
needed  room .  and 
it  was  cheaper  to 
build  up  than  to 
build  out;  still  he  was  willing  to  be  obliging.  Finally,  the 
owner  of  the  house  on  the  south  side  of  the  street  agreed 
that  if  the  house  on  the  north  side  should  be  kept  low,  he 


riic  St.ile-lious*;,  .\nn.ii>olis.     [1772-^5.] 


was  building  from  1770  to  1780,  work  probably  being  de- 
layed during  the  war,  and  its  first  occupant,  in  1781,  was  not 
Mr.  Hammond,  but  Chief  Justice  Jeremiah  Townley  Chase 

whose     descendants 
still  occupy  it. 

Besides  the  Har- 
wood house  there 
are  several  others  in 
the  city  that  exhibit 
the  type- pi  an  of 
central  house  with 
wing  pavilions. 
"Acton"  shows  it 
in  incomplete  form, 
while  the  Kennedy 
house  and  the  Brice 
house  exhibit  it  in 
very  complete 
shape;  the  latter 
built  about  1740 
shows  none  of  the 
taste  for  French 
fashions  that  appear 
in  the  Chase  house 
and  some  others 
that  were  built  later. 
The  central  feat- 
ure of  the  city,  the 
State-house,  be- 
lieved to  have  been 
built  from  designs 
by  Joseph  Clarke, 
said  to  have  been  a 
pupil  of  Sir  (Jhristo- 
|)lier  Wren's  —  a 
statement  which 
may  mean  so  Biuch 
or  so  little,  and  in 
this  case  makes  one 


feel  that  the  pupil  did  not  long  have  the  benefit  of  his  mas- 
ter's influence  —  has  more  the  air  of  being  inspired  from 
Dutch    than    from    English    precedents,    and    is    altogether 


6o 


THE   GEO  KG  I  AX  J'liRJOJ). 


unlike  an}-  other  building  of  its  time  in  this  country.  It  is 
the  third  capitol  building  that  has  stood  on  the  same  site,  and 
its  foundation  stone  was  laid  March  28,  1772.  The  building 
must  have  proceeded  with  unusual  despatch,  for  we  learn 
that  the  copper   roof  was  placed  on   the  building  in   T773, 


and  grog  to  the  value  of  ^10  los.  This  modest  allowance  of 
drinkables  betokens  one  of  two  things,  either  the  population 
of  the  town  was  small  and  tliose  at  the  banquet  were  but  few, 
or  we  are  altogether  in  the  wrong  nowadays  in  believing  that 
the  men  of  that  time  were  very  free  drinkers.^ 


McDowell   Hall  ["Bladen's  Folly"],  St.  Jolin's  College.     [i744-'<4-] 

only  to  be  blown  off  two  years  later  by  a  hurricane.  Before 
work  was  begun  on  the  dome  the  war  broke  out,  and  it  was 
not  until  peace  was  concluded  and  the  treaty  between  Great 
Uritain  and  the  late  Colonies  had  been  ratified  in  this  very 
building,  in  1784,  that  the  erection  of  ihe  dome  was  taken  in 
hand.  While  the  main  building  is  of  brick,  the  dome,  which 
has  a  diameter  of  40  feet,  and  the  lantern  are  of  wood.  The 
crowning  ornament  of  the  lantern,  an  acorn,  is  200  feet  from 
the  ground,  and  as  the  hill  on  which  the  building  stands 
must  be  some  eighty 
feet  above  high- 
water  level  the  lan- 
tern becomes  an  un- 
usually good  beacon 
when  lighted  at 
night.  Besides  the 
ratification  of  the 
treaty  just  men- 
tioned, the  senate- 
chamber  witnessed 
one  other  historic 
scene  not  long  be- 
fore, for  here  V\'ash- 
ington,  on  December 
23,  1783,  surreiided 
his  commission  as 
Commander -in-chief 
of  tiie  American 
Army.  On  the  day 
before,  at  a  public 
reception,  there  was 
provided  for  the  sup- 
per, besides  music 
and  twelve  packs  of  cards,  ninety-eight  bottles  of  wine  and 
two  and  one  half  gallons  of  spirits,  with  sugar,  etc.,  to  match, 
while  the  populace  outside  were  furnished  with  free  punch 


The  Franklin  House,  State  Circle 


Tlie  Peggy  Stewart  House. 

Washington  was  no  stranger  to  Annapolis  even  before  he 
there  surrended  his  command  and  it  is  said  that  he  was  so 
impressed  with  the  great  serviceableness  of  the  street-plan 
of  the  town  that  he  later  urged  on  Major  I'Enfant  that  he 
should  embody  the  same  scheme  in  his  plans  for  the  laying 
out  of  the  new  capital  city.  If  this  story  be  true,  and  there  is 
no  reason  why  it  should  not  be,  as  Washington's  training  as 
an  engineer  would  make  him  a  keen  observer  of  topographical 
incident  and  how  to  take  advantage  of  it,  less  credit  than  is 

now  accorded  to  him 
may  really  be  due  to 
I'Enfant  for  the  truly 
admirable  laying  out 
of  the  City  of  Wash- 
ington. It  is  further 
said  that  the  street- 
plan  of  Annapolis 
was  derived  from  one 
devised  by  Sir  Chris- 
topher Wren  for  the 
rebuilding  of  Lon- 
don. 

The  other  interest- 
ing and  striking-look- 
ing building   in   the 
town  that  obviously 
belongs  to  the  epoch, 
McDowell's  Hall,  the 
notable  one  amongst 
the  buildings  of  St. 
John's  College,  is  in 
part  older  than  the 
State-house,     for     it 
was  begun  in  1744  as  a  gubernatorial  residence  by  Governor 
Bladen,  and  was  nearly  finished  when  a  quarrel  arose  between 
the  governor  and  the  legislature  and  work  on  the  building  was 


'As  ti)  the  drink-habit,  Bisliop  Meade,  in  his  "  O/i^  Chunlies, 
Mhu'slers  and  J-'ainilies  nf  Vin^ijiia"  gives  us  a  glimpse,  when  lie 
says  ■•  Deacons  and  elders  sold  rum  by  wliolesale  and  other  menihers 
l>y  retail.  Nor  did  the  cleroy  lift  up  their  voices  in  solemn  warn- 
ing as  tliey  slioukl  have  done,  but  very  many  freely  used  the  in- 
toxicating   drauglit.       That   aged   and   venerable    man,   the    Rev. 


Leonard  Woods,  of  Andover,  states  that  at  a  particular  period 
previous  to  the  temperance  reformation  he  was  able  to  count 
nearly  forty  ministers  of  the  gospel,  none  of  whom  resided  at  a 
very  .sjreat  distance,  who  were  either  drunkards  or  so  far  addicted 
to  intemperate  drinking  tliat  tlieir  reputation  and  usefulness  were 
very  greatly  injured,  if  not  utterly  ruined." 


COLOX/AL    ARCHITECTL'RE  IN    WESTKRN  MASSACHl' SETTS. 


6i 


stopped,  and  no  more  was  done  for  forty  years,  when,  after 
the  close  of  the  war,  the  people  began  once  more  to  think 
of  the  educational  needs  of  their  young  folk.  Then  it  was,  in 
1784,  that  "Bladen's  folly,"  as  it  was  nicknamed,  was  taken 
in  hand  and  brought  to  its  present  state.  The  same  Joseph 
Clarke  who  designed  the  State-house  prepared  plans  for  the 
enlargement  of  Governor  Bladen's  abandoned  mansion  :  but 
they  were  not  carried  out,  and  it  seems  likely  that  the  present 
building  is  really  the  original  building,  freshened  up,  to  he 
sure,  and  given  more  of  a  semi-public  character  than  would 
be  quite  appropriate  in  a  dwelling-house  even  for  the  head 
of  the  colony.  The  original  designer  of  "Bladen's  folly" 
was  a  Scotch  architect  named  Duff. 

'I"he  unlikeness  of  Annapolis  to  other  places  is  due  in  part 
to  the  almost  entire  absence  of  wooden  or  stone  houses,  and 
as  the  city  does  not  appear  to  have  suffered  from  any  general 
conflagrations  it  seems  rather  curious  that  the  buildings 
should  be  so  almost  exclusively  of  brick  when  other  mercan- 
tile towns  of  the  same  age,  whither  one  would  have  supposed 
ballast  cargoes  of  bricks  could  have  as  easily  been  borne, 
were  largely  built  of  wood.  Although  the  town  seems  not  to 
have  been  swept  out  of  existence  by  fire  in  the  days  of  its 
combustibility,  it  once,  at  least,  narrowly  escaped  that  fate. 
We  find  it  recorded  that  in  1707  one  Robert  Clarke  had 
brought  against  him  a  bill  of  attainder,  because,  amongst 
other  of  his  evil  doings,  he  had  conspired  to  burn  the  town, 
its  records  and  other  property,  secure  enough  of  the  arms 
and  ammunition  and,  seizing  enough  shipping,  set  off  with 
his  companions  on  a  privateering  expedition  into  southern 
waters  and  the  Spanish  main.  What  fate  actually  befell 
Clarke,  who  was  a  counterfeiter  and  outlaw,  the  imperfect 
records  do  not  show ;  but  his  attempt  is  not  surprising  when 
one  remembers  for  how  long  a  time  the  southern  colonies 
were  made  to  serve  as  penal  settlements,  and  how,  in  addi- 
tion to  political  exiles  banished  on  the  failure  of  the  many 
uprisings  in  England  in  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth 
centuries,  there  were  sent  to  this  country  many  shiploads  of 
sheer  human  refuse.  Perhaps  the  timber  to  be  found  on  the 
shores  of  the  Chesapeake  in  the  early  days  was  not  suitable 


for  building  and  as  the  local  stone  is  certainly  scant  and 
poor,  the  settlers  were  forced  early  to  turn  their  thoughts,  if 
they  hoped  to  have  reasonably  permanent  structures  over 
their  heads,  to  procuring  little  by  little  from  the  mother 
country  the  brick  which  they  have  known  how  to  use  with 
such  skill.  Be  this  as  it  may,  Annapolis  is  in  many  ways 
unique  and  in  all  ways  interesting.  As  a  complete  entity,  it 
only  lacks  a  church-building  "  of  the  period,"  and  this  it  had 
until  1858,  when  St.  Anne's  Church,  the  second  of  the  name, 
was  burned  and  had  to  be  replaced  by  the  present,  and  third, 
rather  uninteresting  structure.  The  building  of  the  second 
structure,  the  one  burned  in  1858,  was  brought  about  by  the 
publication,  in  1771.  in  the  Maryland  Gazette  of  a  poetic 
remonstrance  addressed  by  the  first  church  structure  to  the 
people  of  the  town,  in  which  effort  of  the  muse  the  humble 
and  decayed  relic  of  an  earlier  time  chides  the  people  because 

'•  Here  in  .Annapolis  alone 
Crod  has  the  meanest  house  in  town,'' 

and  reminds  them  that 

"  The  State-house,  that,  for  ijublic  good. 
With  me  coeval  Ions;  had  stood  : 
With  me  full  many  a  storm  liad  dared, 
Is  now  at  length  to  be  repaired  : 
Or  rather  to  be  built  anew 
An  honor  to  the  land  and  you," 

and  points  out  that  the  neglect  of  its  public  buildings  is 
rather  typical  of  the  town,  for  the  church  declares  that, 

"  With  grief,  in  yonder  field  hard-ljv, 
A  sister  ruin  I  espy : 
Old  Bladen's  palace,  once  so  famed. 
And  now  too  well  the  '  folly  '  named." 

Although  this  rhyming  rebuke  brought  about  the  immedi- 
ate destruction  of  the  first  church  building,  the  war  and  other 
causes  stood  in  the  way  of  the  execution  of  the  scheme  to 
replace  it  and  the  second  structure  was  not  finished  until 
1792,  eighteen  years  after  work  on  it  had  begun.  The 
present  structure,  erected  in  1859,  is  almost  painfully  out  of 
keeping  with  the  architectural  spirit  of  the  town. 


^^ 


Colonial  Architecture  in  Western  Massachusetts. 


IN  1636  a  small  body  of  our  Puritan  ancestors,  finding 
the  country  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  Boston 
too  thickly  settled,  the  best  building  lots  already  oc- 
cupied or  appropriated,  and  perhaps,  too,  the  political 
and  religious  atmosphere  a  little  trying,  gathered  together 
themselves  and  such  of  their  possessions  as  could  be  carried 
upon  pack-horses  and  set  out  for  the  western  wilderness. 
Beyond  the  straggling  settlement  of  Watertown,  then  called 
Newton,  they  plunged  into  an  unknown  country  absolutely 
wild  and  trackless,  save  for  an  occasional  Indian  trail.  They 
had  learned  by  that  time  that  there  was  little  possibility  of 
stumbling  upon  the  northwest  passage  or  of  settling  on  the 
shore  of  the  Pacific  —  though  the  charter  of  their  colony 
granted  them  the  right  to  do  so  —  but  beyond  these  general 
negative   ideas,  the  tales  of  Indians,   and   the  varying   re- 


ports of  their  own  hunters,  they  were  as  ignorant  of  their 
destination  as  the  ''  Babes  in  the  Wood." 

After  a  lime  they  reached  the  Connecticut  Valley  and  there 
they  dwelt,  scattered  up  and  down  the  river  between  North- 
ampton and  Weathersfield,  Conn.,  building  up  during  the 
remaining  sixty  years  of  the  century  a  straggling  line  of  towns 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  in  length.  The  growth  of  these 
towns  and  villages  was  slow.  The  distance  from  their  base 
of  supplies  was  great,  severe  winters  and  the  failure  of  crops, 
combined  witii  the  constant  inroads  of  the  Indians,  retarded 
development  and  immigration.  For  many  years  there  was 
only  a  bridle-path  to  Boston,  and  all  merchandise  had  to 
make  the  long  and  perilous  voyage  around  Cape  Cod,  through 
the  Sound  and  the  equally  long  voyage  up  the  Connecticut. 

The    first     setdement     in     the    Connecticut     Valley    in 


62 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


Massachusetts  was  made  in  Springfield  in  1636  and  having 
the  start  in  years  and  numbers  the  town  grew  rapidly  and 
soon  distanced  its  neighbors,  becoming  at  last  the  leading 
commercial  centre  of  the  western  part  of  the  Stale.  Around 
it  Longmeadow,  Agawani,  West  Springfield,  Hadley,  West- 
field,  Southampton  and  North- 
ampton, Hatfield,  Deetfield  and 
towns  still  farther  north  were 
slowly  settled  :  some  by  immi- 
grants from  the  eastern  part  of 
the  State,  some  by  wise  men  from 
Connecticut  who  had  prophetic 
instinct,  and  others  by  those 
Springfield  men  who  after  a  few 
years  found  their  native  town  be- 
coming too  crowded,  and  saw  in 
the  tributary  valleys  and  rich  up- 
land   pastures   of    the   parent   river 


E.    IJlake   House,  !i76o.]  Nathaniel   Kl\   Tavern,  [1667,] 


the 


promise   of    more 
abundant  reward  for  the  same  amount  of  labor. 

Hardly  had  the  first  of  these  valley  settlements  been  es- 
tablished when  the  Indians,  for  the  first  two  or  three  years 
friendly,  suddenly  took  arms  against  the  settlers  and  the  war 
for  mutual  extermination  began,  an  interminable  struggle, 
l)arbarous  on  both  sides,  and  one  which  would  have  ex- 
hausted the  strength  and  patience  of  any  people  save  our 
forefathers.  Says  Holland  in  his  '"  History  of  Western  Massa- 
chusetts "  :  '■  From  the  first  settlement  at  Springfield,  until  the 
Conquest  of  Canada  in  1760,  a  series  of  one  hundred  and 
twenty-four  years  had  passed  away,  and  by  far  the  larger 
part  of  this  time  the  inhabitants  of  the  territory  embraced  in 
old  Hampshire  had  been  exposed  to  the  dangers,  the  fears, 
the  toils  and  trials  of  Indian  wars  or  border  depredations. 
Children  had  been  born,  had  grown  up  to  manhood,  and  de- 
scended to  old  age,  knowing  little  or  nothing  of  peace  and 
tranquillity.  Hundreds  had  been  killed,  and  large  numbers 
carried  into  captivity.  Men,  woinen  and  children  had  been 
butchered  by  scores.     There  is  hardly  a  square  acre,  certainly 

not  a  square  mile,  in  the  Con- 
necticut Valley,  that  has  not 
been  tracked  by  the  flying  feet 
of  fear,  resounded  with  the 
groan  of  the  dying,  drunk  the 
blood  of  the  dead,  or  served 
as  the  scene  of  toils  made 
doubly  toilsome  by  an  appre- 
hension of  danger  that  never 
slept."  And  still,  through  all 
this,  the  towns  grew  slowly, 
though  not  steadily.  Spring- 
field was  practically  laid  in 
ashes  in  1675,  Deerfield  met 
the  same  fate  twice,  and  a  half- 
dozen  of  the  other  towns  barely 
escaped;  but,  always,  the  inhab- 
itants—  when  there  were  any 
left  —  went  to  work  and  built 
again.  How  Florence  in  the 
Piiastei  Cap. Cniton  House,  r.ongmeadnw.  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  cen- 
turies fighting  Pope,  Emperor, 
Duke,  Free  Company,  friend  and  foe,  burning  and  tearing 
down,  visited  by  flood  and  famine,  found  time  for  the  art  and 
architecture  which  she  has  given  to  the  world,  and  above  all 

'The  ordinary  steepness  of  the  early  pitch  roofs  is  shown  hv 
such  structures  as  the  older  portions  of  the  Fairbanks  House  at 
Dedham.  I'late  I\',  l-'art  i.  and  the  \arbonne  House  on  Kssex 
Street,  Salem.  —  1m ). 


how  she  has  preserved  it,  impresses  every  one  who  for  the  first 
time  reads  her  historv,  and  in  this  Connecticut  Valley  the 
wonder  is  not  that  there  is  so  little  Colonial  architecture, 
but  that  there  remains  standing  a  single  structure  built 
before  the  eighteenth  century.     Well,  there  are  very  few  left. 

Still,  until  the  early  part  of  the 
present  century  there  were  a  good 
many,  and  it  is  the  march  of  im- 
provement rather  than  that  of 
violent  destruction  that  has  car- 
ried them  away. 

There  is  little  doubt  that  from 
1665  to  1675  Nathaniel  Ely  of 
Springfield  kept  a  tavern  in  that 
town  :  in  fact,  twice  he  was  fined, 
once  twelve  pounds  for  selling 
four  quarts  of  cider  to  Indians, 
and  again  forty  shillings  for  not  keeping  his  beer  up  to 
the  standard  strength ;  and  this  tavern  of  his  still  stands, 
hemmed-in  by  brick  blocks,  —  perhaps  not  in  its  original 
form,  but,  likely,  very  near  it,  for  the  earliest  houses  in  this 
region  had  undoubtedly  steep  gable  roofs,  as  this  has  still. 
The  "  Pyncheon  Fort,"  built  by  the  first  John  Pyncheon 
in  1660,  which  stood  until  1831,  had  the  same  steep  gables, 
if  a  wash  drawing  made  by  the  Rev.  W.  B.  O.  Peabody, 
one  of  the  early  Unitarian  ministers  of  Springfield,  is  cor- 
rect. In  Hadley,  in  1700,  it  was  voted  that  the  new  meet- 
ing-house have  a  "flattish"  roof.  As  this  was  a  thirty- 
degree  roof,  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  the  majority  of 
roofs  already  built  were  steeper.'  Then,  too,  the  use  of  thatch 
being  common,  a  steep  roof  was  a  necessity  and  it  would  be 
strange  if  the  steep  roof  did  not  remain  in  fashion  after 
thatch  was  discarded.  Isay  the  use  of  thatch  was  common, 
for  "  thatchers,"  in  common  with  "  carpenters,  joiners,  brick- 
layers and  sawyers,"  received  in  1700  three  shillings  per  day, 
according  to  Governor  Hutchinson,  and  of  Northfield  it  is 
recorded  that  in  1702  "the  planters  built  small  huts  and 
covered  them  with 
thatch."  This 
house  of  John  Pyn- 
cheon's,  however, 
was  not  thatched.  It 
had  shingles  of  oak, 
eighteen  inches  long 
and  one  inch  thick, 
which  cost  twenty 
shillings  per  thou- 
sand. In  1667,  by 
the  by,  this  same  J. 
Pyncheon  sold  pine 
boards  of  good 
quality  at  his  Spring- 
field saw-mill  at  four 
shillings  and  six- 
pence per  hundred 
feet. 

Besides  the  Ely 
Tavern  in  Spring- 
field,  I   know  of  no 


From  Door,  Samuel  Colton  House,  Longmeadow. 


seventeenth-century  building  in  the  Connecticut  Valley  which 
bears  any  great  resemblance  to  its  original  form.^  Early  in 
the   eighteenth  century,  however,  labor   and   materials  had 

2  While  this  may  be  true  of  the  writer  and,  perhaps,  of  the  Con- 
necticut X'alley,  there  are  still  left  in  many  New  England  towns 
and  villages  a  nuinber  of  houses  and  other  Iiuildinafs  erected  in 
the  last  half  of  the  seventeenth  century  still  unchanged.  —  Ed. 


COLONIAL   ARCHITECTURE  IX   WESTERN  MASSACHUSETTS. 


63 


become  plentiful  enough  to  afford  larger  and  more  substantial 
houses,  and  many  of  these,  very  slightly  changed,  if  at  all, 
stand  now.  As  a  general  rule,  they  are  nearly  all  of  the 
same  type,  varying  slightly  on  closer  examination. 

It  is  with  this  class  and  type  of  house  that  I  suppose, 
rightly  or  wrongly,  the  general  interest  in  "colonial"  archi- 
tecture begins.  That  is,  it  is  in  this  first  decade  of  the  eigh- 
teenth century  that  certain  houses  began  to  display  more  or 
less  applied  ornament,  designed,  most  of  it,  from  a  varyingly 
distinct  recollection  of 
the  latest  style  in  Eng- 
land (or  perhaps  Bos- 
ton) interpreted  in 
wood  by  local  geniuses 
with  what  simple  tools 
they  possessed.  In 
nearly  all  cases  the 
result  was  bad,  but  I 
do  not  know  that  it  is 
less  interesting  on  that 
account.  Take,  for 
instance,  the  entrance 
of  Samuel  Colton's 
house  in  Long- 
meadow.  The  house 
was  built  about  1740. 
It  is  clear  that  the 
builder,  the  carpenter 
and  architect,  who 
were  undoubtedly  the 
same,  designed  and 
executed  as  carefully 
as  might  be  the  really 
elaborate  work  about 
the  door:  every  mould- 
ing has  been  worked 

'The  Village 
Strekt.  —  The  plan  of 
the  early  New  England 
village  which  has  often 
perplexed  inquirers  is 
purely  a  thing  of  natural 
growth.  The  necessi- 
ties of  mutual  defence 
and  the  needs  of  social 
intercourse  re(|uired 
that  the  earliest  houses 
should  he  grouped 
closely  together,  prol> 
ably  without  any  com- 
mon or  definite  group- 
ing. But,  later,  when 
one  early  settlement  was 
connected  with  another 
by  a  more  or  less  well- 
defined  path  or  road,  it 
was  only  natural  t'lat 
smaller  settlements 
should  grow  up  between 
distant  points  and,  natu- 
rally, the  new  houses 
again  were  built  near  together,  hut  this  time  upcm  eitlier  side  uf  the 
established  roadwav.  'I'lie  planting  of  elm  or  maple  trees  along  tlic 
road,  the  wider  .separation  of  the  rows  of  liouses  so  as  to  include  a 
common  or  green  l>etweeM  them  followed  a,-,  a  natural  development 
and  when  the  general  scheme  had  reached  this  stage  it  was  uatui  al 
that  the  church  and  town-hou.se  should  be  placed  u))on  this  green. 

The  charm  of  these  single-streeted  villages  is  too  real  to  l)e  lost, 
but  they  are  gradually  passing  away  before  the  rising  tide  of  popu- 
lation and  improvement.  The  chief  destructive  agent  is  the 
trolley  and  in  some  places  tliere  is  fierce  opposition  to  the  intro- 
duction of  electric-cars  bv  those  who  love  tlie  old  state  of  things. 
.Apropos  of  the  protest  that  the  summer  residents  of  neerruld. 
Mass.,   are,   at   this   writing,   making   against    the    coming   of    an 


by  hand  ;  the  frieze  moulds,  the  flat  dentils  of  the  pediment 
cornice  barely  raised  above  the  panelling,  the  raised  and 
bevelled  panels  of  the  door,  and  the  carefully-drawn  radial- 
lines  between  the  door  and  the  pilasters  ;  while  the  carved 
capitals  and  the  decorated  rosette  with  its  bunches  of  grapes 
attached,  the  latter  being  in  cast-iron,  bespeak  a  man  with  a 
feeling  for  the  beautiful,  his  vision  a  little  befogged,  perhaps, 
but  his  intention  good.  In  these  pilaster-caps  did  the  de- 
signer intend  to  represent  as  best  he  could  Corinthian  capi- 
tals, of  which,  no 
doubt,  he  had  seen 
pictu  es?  Surely,  if  he 
did,  he  must  have  been 
a  direct  descendant  of 
those  Lombard-Byzan- 
tine artists  and  sculpt- 
ors of  the  eleventh 
century  who  wrought 
in  North  Italy  six  hun- 
dred years  before. 

I  have  remarked 
above  that  these 
houses  remaining  to  us 
from  the  Colonial  pe- 
riod (I  use  the  word 
Colonial  here  in  an  his- 
torical sense)  are  all  of 
the  same  type.  The 
same  may  be  said  of 
the  towns  themselves. 
All  of  the  Colonial 
Connecticut- V  alley 
towns,  with  the  single 
exception  of  North- 
ampton, were  laid  out 
on    the    same   plan:' 


orway  of  tlie  Chiircliill   linuse,  NewiiiRtoii 
1  apt.  (.'harles 


Parish.  Wctlierstield,  Conn. 
Churchill. 


Built  abuul   i;(A»  by 


electiic-car  line,  the 
Spnn^Jic/d  Rcpnhliiaii 
says:  "The  opposition 
in  the  old  street  is  not 
to  the  road,  but  to  its 
great  and  inevitable 
detriment  to  the  street. 
That  old  village  is  a 
great  historic  monument, 
and  it  owes  its  preserva- 
tion cjiietly  to  the  people 
who  have  come  into  it  in 
recent  years  because  of 
its  associations,  liistori- 
cal  and  often  ancestral, 
or  because  of  its  fine 
quiet  and  Old  World  air 
of  rest.  A  singular  en- 
deavor has  been  shown 
t<i  depreciate  these  peo- 
ple as  'summer  visi- 
tors.' ]5ut  not  of  one 
tliese  househoh's  which 
have  made  their  home 
on    the  street  has    anv- 


aiivthing  like  wealth  —  more,  there  is  not  one  whose  members  are 
not  engaged  in  work  for  their  living.  .Some  of  these  find  their 
work  in  various  cities,  and  live  in  them  in  the  season  of  work; 
some  remain  in  Deerfield  all  the  \car  round,  but  work  all  the  time. 
This  is  the  meanest  attack  on  i)ul>lic-spirited  residents  and  tax- 
pavers  of  the  town,  who  love  the  old  street  and  want  to  preserve  it 
not  onlv  for  themselves,  but  for  the  .State  and  the  nation,  as  an 
object-lesson  of  history."  I^ossibly  the  protestants  will  win,  more 
probablv  it  will  be  the  railway,  and  fine  trees  will  lose  their  limbs, 
wires  and  tlieir  supporting  parts  will  bring  the  old  street  nearer  to 
the  fashions  of  the  day,  and,  in  large  measure,  the  jjristine  charm 
of  tpiiet  and  quaintne.ss.  wliich  those  who  know  it  relish  so  keenlv, 
will  have  passed  away  forever.  —  Eu. 


64 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


the  single  street,  often  over  three  hundred  feet  wide,  with  a  houses  on  them  is  about  one  hundred  and  forty-three  years, 
'■common''  running  through  the  centre  on  wliich  llie  church  The  house'  built  in  Hadley,  by  Samuel  Porter,  in  1713,  is 

generally  stood.  On  either  side  of  the  street  stood  the  a  good  example  of  the  better  class  of  houses.  The  plan 
houses,  always  with  eaves  to  the  street ;  the  lots  on  which  was  a  simple  one  :  two  rooms  on  the  first  floor,  with  the  chim- 
they  were  placed  were  comparatively  narrow,  and  behind  the  ney  and  entry  between  them,  the  chimney  being  the  larger; 
house,  at  right  angles  to  the  street,  ran  a  straggling  line  of  upstairs,  four  rooms.  At  the  rear  was  a  one-story  addition, 
barns  and  out-houses  ^ — on  one  side  of  the  street  towards  which  long  ago  fell  away,  to  be  replaced  by  another, 
the  river,  which,  in  general,  was   a  short  half-mile  or  less  Why  on  the  front  the  second  story  overhangs  the  first  by 

away,  on  the  other  to  the  swamp  or  the  foot-hills  of  the  four  or  five  inches,  I  do  not  know.  I  can  find  no  construc- 
valley,  where  each  family  dwelling  on  the  street  had  its  tional  reason  for  it.  It  certainly  could  not  have  served,  as 
pasture,  its  wood-land  or  its  grass-land  ;  and  to  this  day  the  did  the  greater  overhang  on  earlier  buildings,  as  a  convenient 
great  majority  of  these  towns  are  unchanged  in  their  plans,  vantage-point  for  shooting  Indians,  though  the  house  was 
many  of  the  original  '•  home  lots  "  being  still  owned  by  the  built  in  the  darkest  period  of  the  French  and  Indian  wars, 
direct  descendants  of  those  to  whom  they  were  granted  in  The  clapboards  are  split  and  shaved,  with  their  edges 
the  seventeenth  century.  In  the  little  town  of  Deerfield,  moulded.  The  front  door  is  practically  a  double  door  made 
there  are  twelve  of  these  estates,  and  the  average  age  of  the      up  of  the  ordinary  panel  door  backed  by  a  batten  door  on 

the  inside,  the  whole  being 

three   inches    thick.      De- 
spite the  scarcity  of  pine, 

of    which   the    records    of 

that  time  often  complain, 

all  the   interior   partitions 

are   solid  and  panelled  in 

wood,  and  there  is  panelled 

wainscot    everywhere,    the 

width  of  the  panels  testify- 
ing   to    the    scant  respect 

paid  to  that   provision  in 

the  Colonial  charter  which 

reserved    all    trees    over 

twenty-four   inches    in    di- 
ameter for  the  use  of  the 

Royal  Navy.     The  extent 

of  wood-panelling  was 

brought  to  my   notice   by 

the  present  dweller  in  the 

house    by    the    eminently 

practical   observation   that 

the  room  took  forty  yards 

of  carpeting  and  only  two 

double-rolls  of  wall-paper. 

All  of  this  detail,  panels. 

mouldings,    wainscot-caps, 

stair-rails  and  balusters,  is 

of  the  simplest  sort,  rather  heavy  and  perhaps  clumsy,  but  began  to  be  built  the  gambrel-roof  houses,  of  which  the  old 
evidently  local  work.  It  is  a  significant  fact  that  in  the  year  Josiah  Dwight  house,^  still  standing  in  Springfield,  is  as  good 
that  this  house  was  built,  the  town-meeting,  of  which  this  an  example,  probably,  as  we  have  left  to  us.  This  was  built 
Samuel  Porter  was  the  moderator,  voted  to  build  its  new  about  1764  and  outwardly  is,  in  general,  as  it  was  one  hun- 
meeting-house,  the  one  with  the  aforesaid  "flattish"  roof,  dred  and  thirty  years  ago.  There  is  a  little  more  elaboration 
and  the  committee  voted  to  "buy  glass,  nails,  and  other  of  detail  about  the  windows  and  doors  and  the  cornice,  but 
necessaries,  lay  out  work  by  getting  clapboards,  shingles,  the  doorway  is  very  like  that  of  the  Porter  house  in  Hadley, 
etc.,  hire  workmen,  improving  our  own  inhabitants  as  much  like  the  Colton  house  in  Longmeadow,  and,  in  fact,  like  fifty 
as  may  be,  and  levelling  all  the  woik  at  money  price."  Is  it  other  houses  in  the  neighborhood.  Here  are  the  same 
possible  that  the  moderator  may  have  found  it  convenient  to  wrought  clapboards  with  their  moulded  edges,  and  the 
build  his  house  at  the  same  time,  and  perhaps  get  a  little  same  pineapple  in  the  centre  of  the  broken  pediment  above 
better  price  on  his  own  work  ?  Such  things  have  been  done  the  doorway,  the  same  indication  of  a  flat  arch  above  the  door- 
in  later  days.  opening,  and  almost  exactly  the  same  doors  themselves.     In- 

There  are  a  good  many  of  these  old  houses  very  like  the  side,  the  house  has  been  so  completely  torn  to  pieces  and 
Porter  house  —  in  fact,  almost  identical  with  it  in  plan  and  remodelled  that  only  a  few  of  the  rooms  retain  their  original 
detail  — scattered  up  and  down  the  valley.  As  the  years  of  shape,  and  instead  of  a  score  of  representatives  of  one  family, 
the  century  increased,  the  size  of  the  houses  increased  also,  the  representatives  of  scores  of  families,  and  possibly  as  many 
and  while  the  length  of  the  house  on  the  street  was  kept  nationalities,  now  dwell  there.  Up  to  the  close  of  the  Revo- 
about  the  same,  the  two  rooms  on  the  first  floor  were  lutionary  War  this  type  of  house,  beginning  with  the  narrower 
increased  to  four,  making  the  house  much  deeper.      Then      house,  and  gradually  increasing  in  size  with  the  change  from 

M'late  21,  I 'art  1. 


Front  Do 


.Stebbins  House,  Deerfield,  Mass. 
Joseph  .StebbiriS,  1772. 


I'.uilt  bv 


Rear  Door:    .Stebbins   House,  Deerfield,  Mass.     Built  by 
Joseph   Steiibins,    1772. 


I Platfs 


22,  Part  I. 


COLONIAL  ARCHITECTURE  IN    WESTERN  MASSACHUSETTS. 


65 


the  simple  gable-roof  to  thegambrel-roof,  seems  to  have  been 
the  prevailing  plan  all  through  this  section  of  the  country, 
and  examples  of  it  might  be  multiplied  almost  indefinitely, 
but  it  would  amount  to  hardly  more  than  a  vain  repetition. 
People  were  then,  probably,  pretty  much  the  same  as  they 
are  now  :  the  recognized  leader  in  a  financial  and  social  way 
built  himself  a  house,  and  his  friends  and  his  enemies  fol- 
lowed as  closely  as  they  could  in  his  footsteps.  Until  the 
War  of  the  Revolution,  there  was  little,  if  any,  diversity  of 
opinion  as  to  who  these  leaders  were. 

Of  the  distress  occasioned  by  the  War  of  the  Revolution, 
the  inhabitants  of  Western  Massachusetts  bore  their  full 
share,  for  though  they  were  not  exposed  as  were  the  dwellers 
on  the  coast  to  Great  Britain's  navy,  and  their  comparative 
isolation  and  slight  numbers  secured  them  in  a  large  degree 
from  the  more  important  movements  and  designs  of  the 
enemy,  they  made  up  a  part  of  the  frontier  close  to  that  de- 
batable ground  which  witnessed  the  most  bloody  and  bar- 
barous conflicts  in  the  struggle  with  the  mother  country,  and 
the  Indian  allies  of  the  British 
were  a  potent  factor  in  their 
dread,  for  the  generation  was 
still  living  and  active  which  had 
seen  and  felt  the  horrors  of  In- 
dian warfare.  The  very  strong- 
holds which  had  been  the  colo- 
nists'defence,  the  trails  and  roads 
which  they  had  opened,  became, 
on  the  breaking  out  of  the  war, 
their  greatest  danger,  and  an  en- 
emy could  strike  from  the  depths 
of  the  forest  about  them  more 
terribly  than  from  the  wide  ex- 
panse of  the  Atlantic  With  the 
tall  of  Burgoynecame  some  relief 
from  immediate  peril ;  but  Ca- 
nada still  remained,  a  continual 
menace  until  the  war  had  closed. 

So  it  was  that  there  was  but 
little  important  building  done 
here  during  the  Revolution  — 
at  its  close  the  country  was 
exhausted,  and  Western  Massa- 
chusetts bore   its   share  of  the 

general  exhaustion.  But  though  many  fortunes  had  been 
lost,  others  had  been  gained:  while  the  war  crippled  many 
industries,  it  built  up  nearly  as  many  others,  and  many  of 
these  latter  were  exceedingly  profitable  ones,  and  the  natural 
result  of  this  state  of  affairs  showed  itself  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  eighteenth  century  in  the  building  of  many  new  houses, 
larger  and  more  elaborate  than  any  that  had  gone  before  ; 
houses,  too,  which  stood  out  from  the  majority  in  sharper 
lines  of  contrast  to  their  neighbors,  for  until  this  opportuniiy 
presented  itself  for  the  accumulation  of  wealth,  the  money  in 
these  communities  had  been  much  more  evenly  divided. 
Then,  too,  the  war  had  moved  the  people  about  geographi- 
cally as  well  as  socially  ;  they  had  gone  from  the  country  to 
the  city,  and  come  from  the  city  to  the  country,  and  so  it 
was  that  new  ideas  and  innovations  were  brought  in. 

liven  before  the  Revolution,  Boston  and  its  vicinity  had 
apparently  had  an  "Art  awikening'' :  the  introduction  to 
the  "  Town  and  Country  Builders'  Assistant,"  published  at  a 
"shop  near  Boston  Stone,"  by  J.  Norman,  architect,  seems 
to  indicate  a  movement  of  this  sort.  He  says  in  this  "  In- 
troduction "  to  the  volume  of  plates  and  texts,  which  he 
frankly  remarks  are  "made  familiar  to  the  meanest  capac- 


Staircase  in   Hail,  Hullisler  House,  Greenfield,  Mass 


ity  "  :  "The  greateft  pleafure  that  Builders  and  workmen  of 
all  kinds  have  of  late  years  taken  in  the  Study  of  Architect- 
ure, and  the  great  Advantages  that  have  accrued  to  thole  for 
whom  they  have  been  employed,  by  having  their  Works 
executed  in  a  much  neater  and  more  magnificent  Manner 
than  was  ever  done  in  this  Country  before,  has  been  the  real 
Motive  that  induced  me  to  the  Compiling  of  this  Work  for 
their  future  Improvement. 

"  Befides  as  the  fludy  of  Architecture  is  truly  delightful  in 
all  its  Procefs,  its  practice  is  evidently  of  the  greateft  Impor- 
tance to  Artificers  in  general,  and  its  Rules  fo  eafy  as  to  be 
acquired  at  leifure  Times,  when  the  Bufinefs  of  Day  is  over 
by  way  of  Diverfion  ;  Tis  a  Matter  of  very  great  furprife  to 
me  how  any  Perfon  dare  prefume  to  difcourage  others  from 
the  Study  thereof,  and  render  them  very  often  lefs  fervice- 
able  to  the  Public  than  fo  many  Brutes.  But  to  prevent  this 
Infection  from  diffufing  its  poifonous  effiuvias  any  further, 
and  in  confideration  that  amongft  all  forts  of  people  there  are 
fome  in  whom  nature  has  implanted  that  noble  Faculty  of 

the  Soul  called  REASON 
WHEREBY  WE  JUDGE  OF 
THINGS,  I  have  therefore,  at 
very  great  expenfe,  compiled 
this  VVork  for  the  common  Good 
of  all  Men  of  Reafon"  etc. 

This  "awakening,"  the  Revo- 
lution, by  its  before-mentioned 
shifting  about,  undoubtedly 
spread,  and  one  of  its  results  in 
this  region  was  the  publication 
at  Greenfield,  in  1797,  of  the 
"  Country  Builders'  Assistant." 
by  Asher  Benjamin.  As  nearly 
all  of  the  existing  "  Colonial  " 
work  later  than  1793  probably 
owes  what  it  has  of  artistic 
merit  either  to  this  eminently 
practical  little  volume,  or  to  the 
author  —  who  was  a  carpenter 
—  it  deserves  more  than  a  pass- 
ing mention.  The  book  con- 
tains thirty  copper-plates  with  a 
"  Printed  Explanation  to  each," 
which,  taken  all  together,  give 
a  pretty  thorough  exposition  of  the  construction  and  artistic 
<letail  of  a  house  in  those  days.  A  half  dozen  of  these  plates 
I  have  redrawn  ; '  for,  intended  as  they  were  for  working 
details,  they  are  not  without  interest. 

Plate  I  is  mainly  of  door  and  window  trim,  which  the 
author  states  should  be  }  or  i|^  of  the  width  of  the  door  or 
window.  The  frieze  over  the  door  or  window  should  be  \ 
wider  than  the  trim  and  the  cornice  %  or  j?  of  the  trim. 

Plate  II  shows  "  Ionic  and  Corinthian  Fronts  .  .  .  with  all 
their  parts  figured  for  practice  which  is  plain  to  infpection." 
Plate  14  "is  a  group  of  cornices,  and  t(j  proportion  them 
to  rooms  or  any  other  place  required,  divide  the  whole  height 
of  the  room  in  twenty-two,  twenty-four,  or  twenty-fix  parts,  and 
give  one  of  thofe  to  the  cornice.  ...  If  ufed  on  the  outfide 
of  buildings,  divide  the  height  into  nineteen  or  twenty  parts, 
one  of  which  will  be  the  height  of  the  cornice." 

Plates  15  and  16  show  pedestals  and  imposts,  the  proper 
depth  of  the  latter  being  y'g  or  ^j^  of  the  height  from  the 
floor  to  the  springing  of  the  arch,  while  Plates  19  and  20 
are  cliimneypieces  drawn  to  scale  with  their  details  "half 
lize."  Of  the  remaining  plates  in  the  book,  eight  are 
'  Plate  32.  I'art  \il. 


66 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


ilevoted  \o  ilie  explanation  of  the  orders  :  there  are  one  or  the  finish  in  each  of  the  first-story  rooms  and  nearly  all  of  the 
two  plans  and  elevations  of  houses  and  a  church,  details  of  chambers  is  evidently  carefully  studied  for  each  individual 
staircases,  doors,  uiiidous,  etc  ;  in  fact,  all  that  an  intelli-  room.  The  fore-runner  of  the  veniilating  grate  is  fore- 
gent  builder  a  centurx'  .igo  reallv  needed.  shadowed  in  the  fireplaces  of  the  two  parlors  where  the 
()f  the  earlier  books  prinletl  about  this  lime,  some  earlier,  stone  facings  are  |3'-rf., rated  to  admit  the  hot  air  from 
some  later,  —  "Builders'  Jeic'ch,"  "  Geiitlctneii' s  and  Builders'  the  room  that  the  rooms  above  may  benefit  thereby.  The 
Ktpositorics,"    ••Builders'    Companions  ''  —  I    know    of   none  house  has  passed  through  many  vicissitudes,  but  is  substan- 


that  approach  as 
closely  the  Co- 
lonial  spirit,  as  it 
is  embodied  in 
this  region,  as 
Benjamin's  iitile 
book.  His 
plates  are  poorly 
done,  but  here  is 
the  translation 
of  the  Classic 
into  the  vernacu- 
lar—  Jones  and 
Wren  adapted  to 
the  necessities 
of  pastoral  New 
England. 

Just  about  the 
time  that  Benja- 
ni  i  11  published 
this  book,  he 
built  for  Mr. 
S  a  m  u  e  1  Cole- 
man, of  Worces-  "^a^ 
ter,  tlie  house  in 
Greenfield  now 
owned  by  Mr. 
ilollister.  It  is 
one  of  the  best 
examples  of  the 
work  of  its  time 
in  this  part  of 
the  State.  Cole- 
man failed  be- 
fore the  house 
was  done  (let  us 
hope  that  the 
architect  was  not 
one  of  the  causes 
of  the  failure), 
and  the  house 
was  finished  by 
the  creditors. 
Their  economy 
is  manifested  in 
the  house  by  the 
hanging  of  |" 
doors  in  frames 
that  are  rebated 
for     1^"     doors. 

The  building  is  nearly  square  with  two  large  rootns  on  either 
side  of  the  central  hall,  which  runs  directly  through  the 
house,  having  at  the  rear  end  a  wide  door,  a  counterpart  of 
the  front  door,  which  o]jened  onto  the  lawn  and  garden  at 
the  back  eiul.  The  kitchens,  pantries  and  serving-rooms 
were  all  contained  in  an  L  at  the  rear,  which  was  built  at  the 
same  time  as  the  original  house.  The  hall,  with  its  coved 
ceiling  cut  by  semicircular  arches  which  are  carried  bv  deli- 
cate Ionic  pilasters,  is  a  very  satisfactory  piece  of  work,  and 


tially  now  as  the 
sketch   shows, 


!g   excepting  that  a 


front  porch  has 
been  added 
which  is  omitted 
in  the  sketch, 
and  which  de- 
tracts as  little  as 
possible  from  the 
beauty  of  the 
original.  It 
must  have  been 
thoroughly  well 
built,  for  there 
is  hardly  a  settle- 
ment or  crack  in 
the  whole  build- 
ing. 

The  house 
built  by  Rufus 
Colton  at  Aga- 
wam  in  i  8  o  6 
might  have 
been  inspired  by 
this  Hollister 
house  so  far  as 
its  front  is  con- 
cerned, and  it  is 


Lllvatpn  a:'d  details 

or  HALL  IN  THE  !tlL15TER      plainly  an  imita- 

flOlijL  GPaNflLLD.  MA55 
R- Vv'"  COLLMAN  1757 


tion  of  some 
other  house,  .^s 
the  owner  built 
it  on  the  strength 
of  a  $5  lottery- 
ticket  which 
drew  him  a  prize 
of  $5,000,  and 
had  spent  a  good 
deal  of  his  prize 
before  he  began 
to  build,  it  is  safe 
to  assume  that 
it  is  a  much 
cheaper  house 
than  the  forego- 
ing. These  two 
houses  are  the 
type  in  general 
""  of  the  later  Co- 
lonial work  in  Western  Massachusetts.  There  are  some  of 
the  large,  square,  gable  and  gambrel  roofed  houses,  but 
they  are  all  like  the  ones  built  earlier,  except  that  their  front 
entrances  nearly  all  resemble  the  ones  which  I^enjamin  shows 
in  his  little  book,  instead  of  the  heavy  broken-top  pediments 
like  that  in  the  Colton  house  at  Longmeadow.  'I'he  flat- 
hipped  roof  was  evidently  the  fashionable  roof  in  those  days. 
In  181 1  was  built  the  Alexander  house  in  Springfield,  and 
this  house  marks  the  beginning  of  the  Greek  revival,  in  this 


Lllvatioh  •  or  ■  sourn  ■  5idl  or  riALi. 


COLONIAL    ARCIIITECTCKK  I.Y    WESTI-RX  MASSACHrSF.TTS. 


67 


part  of  the  country  at  least.     Here  again,  Asher  Benjamin      mucli  of  this  later  Colonial  work  has  been  thoroughly  well 
was  the  architect,  and  he  seems  to  have  spent  some  part  of      preserved   and   the   houses  illustrated  stand   much   as  they 


his  time  since  he  built  the  f- 
Greenfield  house  in  the  study 
of  Greek  work.  All  the 
curves  in  his  mouldings  about 
the  house,  inside  and  out,  are 
Greek,  and  the  acanthus 
leaves  in  the  composite  capi- 
tals have  become  sharp  and 
spiky;  he  has  grown  artifical, 
too,  for  clapboards  on  the 
outside  no  longer  content  him 
for  his  fa9ade.  It  is  now 
smoothly  covered  with 
matched  boards  ;  his  balusters 
have  disappeared  and  slender 
straight  sticks,  geometrically 
arranged,    have    taken    their 


were  when  they  were  built. 
The  additions  which  were 
made  to  them  forty  or  fifty 
years  ago  have  been  taken 
away,  and  there  has  been  very 
little  cutting  of  new  windows 
and  putting  up  of  new  par- 
titions, with  the  attendant 
barbarities  of  new  doors  and 
window-trim,  whicii  so  often 
disfigure  the  houses  of  that 
period. 

Far  be  it  from  me  to  claim 
for  my  forefathers  who  dwelt 
ill  these  western  iiills  and  val- 

:: I    leys   greater  zeal    in  religion 

than    possessed    the    souls  of 


lie  Alexander  House,   Front   Elevation,  Springtleld,  Mass.     [iSii.] 

place.     The  interior  of  the  house  shows  these  changes,  too,      their  bre;iiren  nearer  the  coast,  but  the  proportion  of  white 
for  the  trim  throughout  is  like  that  which  became  common      spires  and  belfries  to  pilastered  mansions  and  ganibrel-roofed 

houses  is  greater,  I 
dare  maintain,  in 
Franklin  and  I  lamp- 
shire  than  in  Essex 
or  Middlesex  Coun- 
ties, account  for  it  as 
you  will.  To  pro- 
vide a  shelter  for 
himself  and  his 
tamily  was,  of  course, 
from  stern  necessity^ 
the  first  duty  of  the 
colonist.  15ut  this 
was  but  an  incident ; 
no  sooner  had  he  a 
roof  over  his  head 
than  he  turned  to  his 
real  and  abiding 
work,  that  combined 
civil  and  ecclesiasti- 
cal structure  —  the 
"  mec  tins-h  ouse." 


fifteen  or  twenty 
years  later  —  a  flat 
single  member  with 
five  beads  and  imita- 
l  i  o  n  corner-blocks, 
with  a  small  rosette 
in  the  centre,  though 
this  trim,  unlike  later 
work,  is  still  mitred. 

There  are  a  half- 
dozen  houses  still 
scattered  about 
Springfield  built  from 
five  to  fifteen  years 
later  than  this  one, 
and  evidently  more 
or  less  copied  from  it, 
which  show  that  this 
set  the  fashion,  for 
a  time,  for  the  rest 
of   the    town.      But 

with        this       house  ""=  ^'"'"'"   H""5<^.  Agawam,  Mass 

possibly  indeed  with  the  type  illustrated  in  the  Greenfield 
and  Agawam  houses,  the  Colonial  architecture,  .so  far  as  it 
has  any  individuality,  ends.  After 
this  time  tlie  misuse  nf  the  ma- 
terials of  which  the  houses  were 
built  became  so  apparent  and  so 
great  that  the  later  wfirk  is  merely 
interesting  as  a  thing  to  be  avoided. 
'I'he  earlier  work  is  not  alwavs 
constructed  on  the  best  scientific 
principles  nor  with  a  view  to  special 
economy  of  materials  and  labor,  as 
the  little  sketch  of  an  eighteenth- 
century  window-frame  indicates, 
but  it  is  far  more  logical  in  many 
ways  and  certainly  better  archi- 
tecture than  the  later  work  —  at 
least  so  far  as  wooden  construction 


[ISC'..] 


The  HolJister  House.  Greenfield . 

Impost  and   Capital   in    Second     Went,      and      WOod     WaS     aluiOSt     eX- 
Storv  Hall.        •  1       •       ,  ,    .         ,  . 

clusively  used  in  this  part  of  the 
country.  Of  brick  buildings  erected  before  the  early  twen- 
ties  in   this  locality,   there   are   almost    none.      Fortunatelv 


Indeed,  in  some  instances,  the  church  proved  the  occasion 
for  the  town  rather  tiian  the  town  for  Jie  church. 

This  is  not  the  place  for  a 
discussion  of  Colonial  his- 
tory :  suffice  it  to  say,  that 
never,  in  modern  times,  has 
the  connection  between 
Church  and  .State  been  more 
complete  and  intimate  than 
in  the  earlier  Colonial  days 
of  Western  New  England, 
and  that  probably  the  ra:i() 
/(■/■  capita  of  politics  and 
religion  to  the  populalion 
has  never  been  equalled. 
The  colonists  had.  most  of 
them,  left  tiie  old  country 
because  they  were  unable 
there  to  be  as  active  as  they 
wished  in  these  pursuits,  and 
tliey  made  tiie  most  of  their  opportunities  when  they  iiatl  the 
chance.     .So  ihey  built  their  nieeiing-house  at  the  first  possible 


Kijiliteeinl 


68 


THE   GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


opp>ortunity,  and  not  content,  quarrelled  on  doctrinal  points, 
divided  their  parishes  and  built  again;  —  hardly  waited  to 
get  comfortable  homes  in  one  town  before  they  emigrated 
to  the  more  remote  wilderness  and  built  a  fresh  meeting- 
house, or  held  town-meetings  and  voted  to  tear  down  the 
existing  structure  and  build  a  new  and  larger  one  more 
befitting  the  needs  and  dignity  of  the  town. 
As  a  result  of  all  this  activity  in  the  past,  there  are  few 

ecclesiastical  structures 
standing  now  of  an 
earlier  date  than  the  first 
of  the  century,  and  it  is 
to  the  town  and  parish 
records,  which,  in  nearly 
all  cases,  are  one  and  the 
same,  that  one  must  turn 
for  any  trace  of  the  oldest 
meeting-houses. 

According  to  the  above 
authority,  the  first  church 
at     Northampton,     the 


I-irst  Lhurcli,  West  Springfield.     [1702.] 


second,  by-the-by,  west  of  Lancaster,  in  Massachusetts,  was 
i8'x26',  built  of  squared  logs,  with  a  thatched  roof,  9  feet 
high  from  the  lower  part  of  the  sill  to  the  upper  part  of  the 
•'rasens,"  and  the  builders  were  to  be  paid  £i\  in  work  or 
corn  for  its  completion. 

The  first  church  at  West  Springfield,  built  in    1702  and 


lorn  down  in  1820, 
is  a  cut  of  it  in 
Hon  "  which  I  have 
Hatfield,  was  the 
was  a  very  preten- 
height  being  92  feet, 
mounted  by  a  large 
the  date  of  its  erec- 
copper  weather- 
church  at  Hatfield, 


was   40  feet  square.     There 
"  Barker's    Historical   Collec- 
re-drawn      John    AUys,    of 
architect,  and,  for  its  day,  it 
tious   church,    its    extreme 
and    its    topmost   point   sur- 
sheet  iron  weather-vane,  with 
tion  cut  in  it,  over  which  a 
cock    swung.      The    first 
built   in    1668,   was   30   feet 
square.      The 
reason    for 
building    this 
last   church 
—  because 
the     dwellers 
across    the 
Connecticut 
found    that 
the  worry   of 
leaving    their 
homes  on  that 
side    unpro- 
tected    on 
Sunday      dis- 
tracted   their 
a  1 1  e  n  t  i  o  n 
from  the  ser- 
vices— throws 
a    grim     and 

I-irsl  Church,  Farmingtoii,  Conn.     [1750.]  .  .  ., 

Sign  ifican  t 
light  on  the  times.  The  first  church  at  Deerfield  was  "  of  the 
bigness  of  Hatfield  House,"  and  the  first  church  at  Spring 
field  was  a  square  one.  These  earlier  churches  were  almost 
always  built  in  the  centre  of  the  long,  wide  street,  and  were 
entered  from  at  least  three  sides  and  sometimes  four. 

From  the  ground  dimensions  given  above,  it  is  probable 
that  nearly  all  had,  like  the  West  Springfield  church,  steep 
hipped  roofs,  and  the  records  in  many  instances  state  that 


these  roofs  were  "  thatched,"  but  with  what  material  is  not 
quite  clear. 

In  the  next  generation  of  churches,  the  square  form  dis- 
appeared and,  as  a  natural  consequence,  the  gable  roof  re- 
p  laced  the  hip. 
The  church  was 
moved,  in  many 
cases,  from  the 
centre  of  the  street 
into  line  with  the 
dwellings  on  one 
side,  and  then  the 
tower  at  the  front 
appeared.  Of  this 
type  of  church,  I 
know  none  better 
than  the  one  still 
standing  at  Farm- 
ington,  Conn.,  so 
near  the  Massa- 
chusetts line  that  it 
may  be  included 
here.  The  general 
plan  of  the  church 


Ashfield.     [i8n.] 


is  still  nearly  square,  the  pulpit  being  on  the  long  side  of  the 
church  and  the  galleries  continuing  about  three  sides.  There 
are  three  entrances,  one  in  the  tower,  one  at  the  opposite 
end  and  one  on  the  side  opposite  the  pulpit.  The  body  of 
this  church  is  absolutely  plain  save  for  the  entrances,  which 
have  "fronts"  like  the  older  houses  throughout  the  region. 
The  tower  is  very  simple  too,  but  as  it  rises  from  among  the 


*^ 


The  slender 
which  rise 
firmly  tied  to 
wind  and 
the  whole 
These  same 
body  of  the 
braced  and 
together, 


surrounding  elms  it  is  very  beautiful 
spire  is  carried  by  the  eight  columns 
from  the  belfry  deck,  and  has  been  so 
them  that  150  years  of  New  England 
storm  have  only  succeeded  in  moving 
tower  four  inches    out   of    plumb, 
slender  posts  run  down  into  the  main 
tower  for  at  least  twenty-five  feet, 
mortised,  and  pinned  and  strapped 
while  the  tower  itself  is 
anchored  to  the   main 
body  of  the  church  by 
oak  beams,   14  inches 
square,  which  run  com- 
pletely through   the 
tower  and  nearly  half 
way     through     the 
churcn.     Investigation 
of  the  construction  of 
the  spire   itself  is    an 
object-lesson     in     the 
thoroughness  and  care 
with    which    some,    at 
least,  of  our  forefathers 
did  their  work.     Every 
stick    of    timber    is 
marked   at  either  end  ^""''  ''''""''=''■  '^^"'  Sprfngfidd.   [.so..] 

and  the  corresponding  mark  appears  on  the  stick  which  joins 
it.  Even  the  edges  of  the  nail-holes  in  the  wroughtiron 
straps  and  the  heads  of  the  clumsy  hand-wrought  nails  are 
marked,  so  that  the  right  nail  should  be  without  mishap 
driven  into  the  right  hole. 

But  this  church  is  exceptionally  well  built,  even  the  ridge- 
pole has  only  a  sag  of  i^  inches  in  the  whole  length  of  the 
church.      Nearly    one-half   of   the   shingles    and    nearly   all 


COLONIAL    ARCHITI-CrrRE  IX    WESTERX  MASSACHCSiriTS. 


69 


the  clapboards  now  on  the  church  were  put  there  when  the  have  been  a  copy  of  the  church  in  Northboro'  which  Ames 
church  was  built,  and  the  successive  generations  of  white  built  there.  He  committed  suicide  before  the  church  was 
paint  in  some  places  have  made  a  covering  nearly  J  of  an  inch      completed,  rumor  says,  because  he  feared  he  was  going  to 


thick.  The  frame  is.  of  course, 
of  oak.  The  central  pole  of 
the  spire  is  a  single  white-pine 
stick  and  all  the  timber  is  hewn. 
'I'he  church  was  built  about 
1750,  and  is  similar  to  the  one 
at  Weatiiersfield,  Conn. 

Although,  chronologically 
speaking,  the  present  church  at 
West  Springfield  can  hardly  be 
classed  with  the  one  at  Farm- 
ington,  it  is  not  far  removed 
from  it  in  its  general  character  ; 
but  the  form  has  undergone 
some  slight  changes  in  that  it 
is  longer  and  narrower,  and 
that  the  three  entrances  are  all 
at  the  front.  There  is  very 
little  of  interest  in  the  main 
body  of  this  church  and  the 
spire  here  is  very  like  the  one 
at  Farmington  —  a  little  more 
elaborate  in  its  design  ;  similar, 
but  hardly  so  good  in  its  propor- 
tions. The  bell  in  the  tower 
was  re-cast  from  the  one  that 
was  in  the  old  building.  The 
church  was  built  in  1802,  and 
up  to  that  year  the  parish  h.ul 
used   uninterruptedly   the    first 


^F 


From  ■'  I'irwn  and  Country  llntitUr/  A  ^si.yl,tni.'^     \\y  A.  lieiijainin,  1797. 


lose  money  on  the  contract. 
The  church  stood,  originally, 
at  the  top  of  a  very  long  and 
steep  hill,  nearly  half  a  mile 
from  its  present  location,  and 
was  moved  bodily,  spire  and  all, 
to  the  main  street  of  the  village. 

Here  there  is  a  change  from 
the  earlier  type  noticeable  in  the 
spire,  the  tall  and  slender  form 
having  given  place  to  the 
double-curved  turret.  The 
former  shape  seems  to  have 
been  abandoned  after  1800, 
and  the  more  elaborate  Re- 
naissance tower  takes  its  place. 

I  have  re-drawn  another  plate 
from  Benjamin's  book  which 
seems  to  have  some  bearing  on 
this  Ash  field  church.  The 
church  which  he  illustrates  sug- 
gests the  one  in  Ashfield,  both 
as  to  the  design  of  the  body 
of  the  church  and  the  spire,  so 
that  it  is  possible  that  local 
authorities  may  be  mistaken  in 
assigning  the  design  of  the 
church  to  the  Northboro'  one. 

just  about  this  time  there  was 
the  same  break  in  the  Colonial 


church   mentioned   above,  a  period   of   :oo  years,   and   the      work  in  this  region  in  respect  to  the  churches  that  occurs  in 
present  one  bids  fair  to  complete  its  own  century  of  life.  domestic  work,  that  is,  the  transition  from  the  good  work  to 


I8II 

'filing 


C3 

I?" 


I  irst  Cliurtli,  N'nnliamplon,  .Mass.     [i*<i^'.] 

In  the  little  town  of  Ashfield,  in  18 12,  was  built  the  church 
which  now  does  service  as  a  tciwn-hall.  It  was  built  by  John 
Ames,  of  the  neighboring  town  of  Bucklaml,  and  is  said  to 


rilst  CliiiiTh,   S|.rin,cfiel(i.   M.i.k-;.     [iXi^.] 


the  work  which,  while  it  is  not  distinctly  bad,  is  not  so  good. 

The  three  churches  already  mentioned  make  a  reasonable 

use  of    the  materials  of   which    they  are  built.     The  wood 


THi:   CF.OKCIAX  PIIRIOD. 


mouldings,  casings,  archiiraves   and    pilasters    are  none  of 
tiieni  wide  enoiigli  to  be   unsubstantial,  and    are  generally 
constructed  with  some  appreciation  of  the  titness 
of  things,  but  from  this  time  on.  more  attention  was 
paid  to  "  correctness  of  style,"  I   suppose,  tlian   to 
the  legitimate  use  ol  materials. 

The  First  Church  of  Northampton,  begun  in  i8i 
and  linisiied  in  1812,  illustrates  this  very  strikingly. 
It  was  designed  and  built  by  Captain  Isaac  Damon. 
a  young  man  of  twenty-eight,  and  was  his  first  inde- 
pendent work.     He  had  studied  architecture  with 
Ithiel  Towne.  of  New  York,  and  came  to  Norik- 
ampton  from  that  ci  y  to  make  ilie  plans  and  direc 
the    work.      This    church    was    un- 
doubtedly the  most  elaborate  of  any 
which   had    been    built   in    \\'estern 
Massachusetts,  and  I   know  of  none 
anywhere    in    the    S  ate  which    sur- 
passed it.     It  was  a  large  church, 
holding   2,000    people,    and   was   in 
thoroughly    good    repair    in     1878, 
when    it  was   burned.     The  church 
which  it  rt  placel,  from  the  descrip- 
tion which  remains,  must  have  been 

similar  to  that   at    Farmington,  and  i.ei.dv.    [iSi.i.i 

on  the  completion  of  the  new  build- 
ing, the  following  advertisement  was  published  concerning 
the  old  church  :  — 

A   iiAi!r;Ai\. 

The  subscribers,  being  a  Committt'c-  duly  authorized  for   that 
purpose,  offer  for  sale  the 

MEETIXf;    HOUSE 

now  occupied  .as  a  place  of  Public  Worship  in  Northampton.     The 


In  various  parts  of  the  Country.  Meeting  Houses  have  been  taken 
down  and  removed  a  considerable  distance,  and  thereby  an  im- 
mense expense  been  saved  to  the  purchasers.     A  gentleman  well  ac- 
quainted with  this  busine.ss.  wlio  is  furnished  with  all  the 
machinery  necessary  for  this  purpose,  is  now  employed 
on  the   New  Meeting  House  in  this  town,  and  may  he 
conyersed  with,  and,  if  necessary,  may  be  engaged  to 
accomplish  the  object.      It  will  be  ready  for  delivery  as 
soon  as  the  new  Meetuig  House  is  completed,  which  will 
probably  be  by  the  first  of  November  next.     For  terms, 
whicli  will  be  found  very  eas\-  and  advantageous,  apply 
to  JosKi'H  Cook, 

AisxicK   Hint, 

OUVER    POMKROV, 

Committee. 

NoRTHAMi'Tox,  January  8,  1812. 


But  no  society  seemed  to  care  for 
a  church  at  that  time,  so  that  event- 
ually the  old  church  was  destroyed. 

In  1818,  the  First  Parish  in  Spring- 
field appointed  a  building-committee 
to  procure  plans  for  a  church  having 
"  a  decent  plain  front,"  and  appro- 
priated $15,000,  tojiether  with  what 
f^LL  the  old  church  would  bring,  for  the 

'  I  1  building  thereof.     This  appointment 

resulted  in  the  engagement  of  Cap- 
tain Damon  to  build  the  meeting- 
house still  standing  on  Court  Square 
in  Springfield,  a  building,  perhaps,  less  interesting  as  well  as 
smaller  than  its  Northampton  neighbor,  but  with  an  exceed- 
ingly good  tower.  The  church  is  still  used  by  the  First 
Parish  of  Springfield,  and  it  is  fortunate  that  no  attempts 
have  been  made  to  improve  it  externally  during  the  last 
seventy  years,  except  for  an  occasional  coat  of  paint  and  a 
re-gilding  of  the  mammoth  rooster  at  the  top. 

In  Lenox,  in   1814,  a  new  meeting-house  was  built  of  the 


C'lijrt-liniise,  [.enox,   Mass.     [iSi^.] 

frame  is  perfectly  sound  and  tinn.  and  many  of  the  materials  of 
which  it  is  composed  are  as  good  as  new.  Any  Town  or  Religious 
Society  in  the  vicinity  that  may  be  in  want  of  a  good  and  com- 
modious House  of  Worship,  will  find  it  much  for  their  interest  to 
call  and  examine  this  building.      Its  dimen.sioiis  are  7o'x48'. 


First  Cliurch,  Ware,  Mass,     [i 


same  general  type  as  these  later  buildings,  the  main  difference 
being  in  the  arrangement  of  minor  details  and  belfry,  and  in 
the  same  town,  in  1813,  the  County  Court-house  was  built. 
This    is  one  of    the  very  few  brick  buildings   having  any 


COLONIAL   ARCLHTECTURE  IN   WESTEJiN  MASSACHUSETTS. 


pretension  to  archiieciural  design  left  to  us.     This,  again,      architectural  "  freaks  "  one  hundred  years  ago  as  there  are  to- 
was  designed  and  built  by  Capt.  Isaac  Damon,  who  spent  a     day ;  but  these  have  no  connection  with  the  general  develop- 
year  in  Lenox  on  the  work.     Among  other  very  interesting     ment  and  it  is  only  wiih  that  that  I  have  attempted  to  deal. 
papers  which  are  now  in  the  possession  of  Mrs.  Smith,         ^  The  bits  of  history  which  appear  from  time  to  time 

of  Northampton,  Captain  Damon's  daugiiter,  is  a  draw-        o-n^       in  cotmection  with    the   building   of   meeting-house  or 
ing  of  this  Lenox  Court  house,  which  in  its  comparison  o  school-house  often   have   a  more    than    local   interest, 

with   the  building  as  it  stands  today,  is  interesting.  A  The  following  old  contract  for  the   meeting-house  in 


Evidently,  this  was  a  preliminary  sketch,  for  there  were 
several  changes  made  in  the  details  of  the  building. 
The  cupola  is  elaborated,  the  balustrade  upon  the  roof 
is  changed,  and  there  are  several  other  points  of  differ- 
ence.    The  filling  in  of  one  of  the  windows  and  the 
changing  of  the  first-story  window  to  a  door  were  not 
contemplated  on  the  original  plan,  but  are  later  work. 

Capt.    Isaac  Damon  appears  to  have  been   the 
leading  architect  of   Western   Massachusetts  from 
1812  to   1840,  his  influence  on  public  and  ecclesi- 
astical work  being  even  greater  than  Benjamin's  on 
domestic.     He  designed  and  built  at  least  thirteen 
churches  in  this  region  and  nearly  all  the  town-halls 
and    court-houses;     his     specialty,    however,    was 
bridges,  and  there  are  several  of  his  drawings  sti 
preserved  —  rendered  in  a  manner  that  indicates  a 
most    thorough  training   in    draughtsmanship  —  of 
the  old-fashioned  bow-string  truss  wooden  bridges. 
And   of    the    bridges   themselves 
there  are  still  more  left :  nearly  all 
those  over  the   Connecticut  from 
Charlestowi),  N.  H.,  to  Connecti- 
cut,   a    half    dozen     across     the 
Penobscot,  others  over  the  Hud- 
son,  the   Mohawk   and   the   Ohio 
—  in  all.  a  quarter  of  a  hundred 
were   built    by  him,   and   a  large 
number  of  them  are  still  in  use. 

This  elevation  of  a  church  is 
re-drawn  from  one  of  his  original 
drawings :  where  this  particular 
church  was  built — if,  in  fact  it 
was  built  at  all  —  I  do  not  know. 
It  resembles  closely  any  one  of  a 
half   dozen    churches    erected    in 


Charlemont.  dated  1762.  shows  that  contractors,  even 
in  those  days,  were  apt  to  be  dilatory  in  the  comple- 
tion of  their  work. 

"Know  all  men  by  these  presents,  that  I  Thomas 
Dick  of   Pelham  in  the  County  of    Hampshire,   Inn- 
holder,  for  and  in  consideration  of  .  .  .  do  by  these 
presents  covenant  and  agree  to  set  up  a  frame  in  said 
town  in  the  place  where  the  old  frame  now  stands  it 
being  35'  x  30'  and  18'  posts.     To  cover  the  outside 
with  chamfered  boards  and  the  roof  with  boards 
and  shingles  and  to  put  up  weather  boards.     To  lay 
the  lower  floor  with  boards  and  sleepers  or  joist 
well  supported  and  to  complete  the  same  workman- 
like by  the  last  day  of  September  next.     Otherwise 
on  failure  thereof  to  pay  said  Treasurer  2G1L  for  use 
of  said  proprietors. 

Signed,  Thomas  Dick. 

N.  B.     The    proprietors    to    find    boards,    nails, 
shingles  and  rum  for  the  raising."  —  June.  1762. 

All  through  the  old  records  and  town  histories 
these  contracts  occur,  and  how- 
ever slight  and  brief  the  specifi- 
cation may  be,  the  appropriation 

of gallons    of    rum    or    cider 

for  the  "raising"  is  ubiquitous. 
That  and  the  location  of  the 
church  seemed  to  engross  the 
minds  of  the  worthy  inhabitants, 
the  former  item  having  appar- 
ently unanimous  approval,  the 
latter  being  a  most  grievous 
matter  of  strife  and  contention. 

The  towns  of  Granby  and 
South  Hadley  "split"  on  this 
account.  In  the  little  town  of 
Cummington  four  or  five  meeting- 
houses were  built  in  as  many 
Hampshire  and  Hampden  Counties  between  1820  and  1840.  parts  of  the  town,  to  be  abandoned,  one  after  another,  and 
The  Congregational  church  at  Ware,  though  a  little  later,  in  Southampton  the  town  quarrelled  for  six  years  after 
is  strikingly  like  the  preceding  churches  in  general  design  voting  to  build,  before  the  site  was  decided  upon.  Hut  these 
and  is  a  very  late  example  of  this  "transitional  "  style,  for  matters  only  pertain  to  the  architectural  so  far  as  they  illus- 
most  of  the  churches  built  as  late  as  this  (1826)  were  much  trate  the  thoroughness  with  wliich  our  forefathers  grasped 
more  like  the  annexed  elevation  of  Captain  Damon's  work,      the  subject  in  which  they  were  interested,  and  the  careful 

manner  in  which  theystudied  and  consid- 
ered the  main  points  of  detail ;  and  these 
characteristics  they  embodied  in  the 
buildings  which  they  erected,  buildings 
ill  which  the  construction  and  material 
must  ill  many  cases  have  been  experi- 
mental, but  which  stand  to-day  monu- 
ments to  the  soundness  of  their  judg- 
ment.      Gkorge  Clarence  Gardner. 


\  Design  by  Isaac  Damon. 


The  churches  which  have  been 
mentioned  above,  like  the  houses  on 
earlier  pages,  I  have  chosen  as  being 
tyjjes  which  illustrate  the  changing 
phases  of  our  Colonial  work.  There 
are  otlur  houses  and  buildings  which 
have  more  historic  interest,  others  that 
are  conspicuous  through  some  strongly- 
marked    peculiarities,    for    there    were 


i;:,c  IN  MEMuKY  oFi;-; 

Ifi' »]  Mrs  MdrjVard  tfic.ViiiaUc  \'l 

"       an<|  vii-tuovisWifcotMrWiHl^,^ 

lorn  Wcpcl  who  ^      "■  -  ' 


iHc  19 


7 


The  "  Xoox  Hoi'se."  —  We  do  not 
know  where  in  New  Knuland  there  .>till 
stands  in  its  ori^^inal  form  that  precursor 
of  the  parish-parlor  of  today,  the  "  .Noon 
House."     The   early   meetiii;;-liou.scs   were 

ill-heated  in  winter  or  not  heated  at  all,  and  thuugli  the  wor 
shippers,  doubtless,  provided  themselves  with  heated  stones  and 
foot-stoves,  these  primitive  heaters  could  not  last  through  even 
a  protracted  morning  session,  much  less  that  of  the  afternoon, 
also.      Therefore    as    a    mere    matter    of    self-preservation    there 


l/^ldiH mill  ('''  was  liuilt  near  tliu  iiiecting-housc  a  smaller 
structure,  called  the  "Noon  House,"  fur- 
nished witli  an  ample  fireplace.  Ileretlie 
congregation  assembled,  between  morning 
and  afternoon  services,  thawed  out  their 
chilled  bodies,  replenished  their  foot-stoves  and  relieatod  tlio  more 
primitive  stone  or  brick,  ate  their  midday  lunclies  and,  while  the 
ilders  presumably  go.ssiped  in  a  seemly  and  subdued  way,  the 
\iiuths  and  maidens  as  certainly  took  tlie  op])orunity  to  tiirt  with 
<liu'  discreetness.   —  \i]>. 


The  Hotel  Cluny  of  a  New  England  Village. 


^^?^>®<=A:^^ 


THE  extraordinary  production  and  huge  circulation  of 
the  historical  novel  is  but  one  of  the  consequences 
of  tlie  remarkable  growth  of  the  "  patriotic  so- 
cieties "  in  this  country  in  the  past  few  years  — 
societies  like  those  of  the  Sons  and  llie  Daughters  of  the 
Revolution,  the  Colonial  Dames,  and  the  like.  One  of 
the  most  admirable  results  of  the  movement  is  the  wide- 
spread interest  in  the  establisiiment  of  local  historical 
societies,  particularly  in  the  old  towns  of  New  England. 
These  historical  societies  have  a  very  interesting  and  even 
fascinating  work  before  them :  the  collection  and  preserva- 
tion of  all  manner  of  local  records,  the  looking-up  of  spots  of 
historical  interest,  the  preservation  of  interesting  old  build- 
ings, and  the  marking  of  historic  sites  with  commemorative 
tablets,  besides  the  study  and  discussion  of  both  local  and 
general  history.  In  the  average  New  England  town  the  soil 
proves  gralifyingly  fertile  in  these  fields  and  the  delving 
therein  bears  rich  fruit  in  the  development  of  interest  in  and 
love  for  the  community,  the  heightening  of  civic  feeling,  the 
encourageinent  of  local  improvements,  and  a  care  for  the 
future  of  the  town  as  well  as  an  interest  in  the  town's  past. 

In  not  a  few  places  the  local  historical  society  has  done  a 
most  excellent  thing  by  taking  some  fine  or  quaint  old  house 
for  its  headquarters,  fitting  it  up  after  old  fashions,  and 
adorning  it  with  attractive  historical  collections.  Such  a 
collection  on  a  large  scale  is  that  of  the  Bostonian  Society. 


'Plates  46-47,  Part  II. 

'Figure  2,  page  2.  Vol.  I. 

*  .Although  we  have  no  illustration  of  the  (larrison  House  at 
Medford,  the  title  recalls  the  fact  that  a  structure  locally  known 
in'  the  same   name   at  Newburyport.  Mass..  and  like  the  Medford 


riic  r.arrisoii   House,   Newbun'pon,  Mass. 

building  presumably  deriving  its  name  from  the  fact  of  its  one- 
time use  as  stronghold  or  block-house  for  the  litde  settlement 
was  described  in  a  foot-note  on  page  r.  Volume  I.  and  we  take 
the  oi)])C)rtiii)itv  to  introduce  an  illustration  of  the  building  as  it 
now  exists.        I  mi. 


to  which  the  city  long  ago  gave  the  free  use  of  the  pictur- 
esque Old  State-house,'  above  the  ground-floor,  and  has 
converted  the  old-time  halls  of  legislation  in  the  carefully 
restored  building  into  a  rich  museum  of  all  manner  of  anti- 
quities relating  to  the  history  of  Boston.  Medford  is  a  fine 
Colonial  town  with  a  goodly  number  of  stately  old  dwellings. 
One  of  these,  the  Cradock  House,  built  in  the  year  1632  for 
Governor  Cradock  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  —  who 
never  came  over  from  England  to  occupy  it  —  is  reputed  to 
be  the  oldest  dwelling  in  the  original  portion  of  the  United 
States.  Singularly  enough,  this  has  very  lately  been  esta- 
blished to  be  not  the  picturesque  brick  house  "^  that  has  long 
gone  by  that  name  and  which  is  a  very  close  reproduction  of 
a  typical  English  farm-house,  but  is  identical  with  what  is 
known  as  the  "Garrison  House,"'  in  the  centre  of  the  city, 
still  occupied  as  a  very  comfortable  and  prosperous  looking 
dwelling.  The  highly  active  Medford  Historical  Society — 
a  member  of  which  unearthed  in  London  the  map  and  other 
documents  that  attested  this  important  fact  —  had  once 
endeavored  to  secure  for  its  headquarters  the  fine  old  Royall 
House  ■"  with  its  extensive  grounds,  a  particularly  imposing 
mansion  of  pre-Revolutionary  days,  but  the  owners  would 
not  part  with  it.  Its  use,  however,  was  secured  as  the  scene 
of  a  notable  historical  festival  given  by  the  Society  a  few 
years  ago.  The  Society  thereupon  contented  itself  with  more 
modest   quarters,  but   most   attractively   and   appropriately 


To  balance  the  effect  of  the  adjoining  cut  of  the  Garrison  House. 
at  Newburyport.  we  introduce  here  an  illustration  of  another  old 
house  in  the  same  quaint  seaport.  It  is  a  tvpical  of  many  dwell- 
ings  throughout    Xew    England    and    wherever    these    are   seen. 


J<i^;^^^:S0^^^^f!f^?^'' 


riie  Cnlliiis  House,  Newburyport,  Mass. 

even  when  standing  in  absolute  isolation  in  the  midst  of  a  barren 
shore-pasture  thev  attract  attention  and  admiration  because  of  their 
air   of  thorough   homelikene.ss,  and   in   more  than   one   of   them 
interesting  interior  features  arc  to  be  found.--  I'.n. 
«  Plates  2-6.  Part  I. 


72 


THE  HOTEL    CLUNY  OF  A   NEW  ENGLAND    V/LLAGE. 


71 


fitted  up,  in  the  shape  of  the  old-fashioned  house  that  has  through  Plum  Island  Sound,  whose  quiet  waters,  shallow  and 

an   historical    interest    in    American    literature,   and    in   the  variegated  with    delicate  shadings    of   green    and  blue,  are 

anti-slavery  movement,   as  the    birthplace  of    Lydia    Maria  sheltered  from  the  tossing  Atlantic  by  the  long  and  narrow 

Child.  insular  barrier  of  sand-dunes.     From    Newburyport  a  train 

In  certain  respects,  however,  the  most  notable  accomplish-  will  bring  one  back  to  Boston  in  an  hour  or  so.  Or,  one 
ment  in  this  direction  is  the  work  of  the  Ipswich  Historical  may  extend  the  day's  pleasuring  by  taking  another  steam- 
Society  in  the  restoration  of  an  ancient  dwelling  to  its  prinii-  boat  up  the  Merrimac,  VVhittier's  beautiful  river,  and  there 
tive  condition  as  it  existed  in  the  primal  days  of  the  Massa-  find  a  train  for  Boston. 

chusetts  Bay  Colony.     This  work  has  been  done  with  such  The  Hotel  Cluny,  as  all  know,  is  a  magnificent  old  French 

fidelity,  such  fine  appreciation  and  understanding,  and  the  chateau  preserved  exactly  as  in  the  ancient  days,  and  filled 

house,  with  its  collections,  is  intrinsically  so  fn!l  of  interest,  with  a  priceless  collection  of  objects  representative  of  the 

that  it  deserves  wide  celebrity,  both  as  an  example  of  what  life  of  its  day.     It  sets  an  example  of  what  may  wisely  be 

might  be  accomplished  in  not  a  few  other  places,  and  as  one  clone  with  fine  old  buildings  elsewhere— though  the  example 

of  the  most  interesting  sights  for  visitors  to  New  England.  may  more  wisely  be  bettered  by  a  better  arrangement  and 

For  the  latter,  the  quaint  old  town  of  Ipswich  is  in  itself  classification  of  the  collections  shown  therein  than  has  been 

well  worth   going   far  to   see.     Although   one   of  tiie   most  effected  at  the  Hotel  Cluny.     It  is  a  far  cry,  of  course,  from 

travelled  lines  of  railway  on  the  continent  passes  through  the  superb  Parisian  chateau,  and  the  splendors  for  which  it 

it,  the  beautiful  old  town  has  preserved  its  ancient  charms  in  stands,  to  the  austere  Puritan  age  and  land  when  our  mighty 

a  sort  of  isolation  amidst  the  wide  levels  of  the  vast  salt-  country  was  all  one  frontier,  facing  the  ocean  on  one  side 

marshes    that   spread   before   it.     The  clear  Ipswich  River  and  the  savage  wilderness  on  the  other,  with  a  meagre  fringe 

rambles  gently  down  from  the  inland  hills,  and  here,  in  the  of  settlements.     But  the  Whipple  House,  of  Ipswich,  like  the 

heart  of  the  town,  tumbles  in  falls  down  to  the  tidal  level.  Hotel  Cluny,  of  Paris,  represents  the  best  of  its  day,  and  it 

thence  meandering  through  the  marshes  to  the  sea,  whence  stands    as,    probably,    the    most   faithful    reproduction    yet 


vessels  come  and  go  at 
the  wharves  that  were 
once  the  scenes  of  a  lively 
commerce  in  the  days 
when  all  the  coast-ports 
were  havens  for  maritime 
advenlurings.  .Skirting 
the  river  are  the  quiet 
winding  streets,  shaded 
by  great  elms  and  bord- 
ered by  many  fine  old 
houses.  Just  over  the 
town  there  rises  the  noble 
drumlin  shape  of  Heart- 
break Hill  like  a  gigantic 
billow  —  celebrated  in  a 
poem    by  the   late    I.ucy 


achieved  of  the  home  en- 
vironment of  the  primi- 
tive Colonial  life  of  New 
England  in  the  days  when 
our  ancestors,  with  their 
stern  beliefs,  their  harsh 
moralities,  their  appalling 
superstitions,  might  be 
regarded  as  little  more 
^  than  barbarians,  when 
measured  by  the  stand- 
ards of  to-day. 

The  visitor  to  Ipswich 
by  train  finds  the  Whipple 
House  just  across  the  way 
from  the  station,  towards 
which  its  low  walled  back 


The  Wliipi'le   H*'iise,   Ipswirli,  M.iss. 

Larcom    that   tenderly   records    the   legend    of    the    Indian      is  turned  in  accordance  with  the  ancient  rule  that  faced  all 
maiden   who,  from  its  sunimit.  daily  looked  ii  v.iin  for  the      houses   to   the   south   when   standing   detached.     Venerably 


coming  of  her  lover.  It  is  true  that  upon  a  la>t-centnry  map 
of  the  town  the  designation  of  "  Hard  Brick  Hill  "  is  inscribed. 
But  good  authority  declares  this  to  be  a  prosaic  and  ignorant 
corruption  of  the  original  natne. 

The  charms  of  the  town  itself  and  the  loveliness  of  the 


homely,  in  the  truest  sense  of  the  word,  and  restored  to  its 
origirial  aspect  as  carefully  as  the  most  scholarly  research 
and  the  most  scrupulous  adherence  to  ascertained  facts  can 
make  it  possible,  it  is  certainly  one  of  the  most  notable  old 
houses  in  the  United  States.     The  simple  beauty  of  its  setting 


environing   landscape   make    Ipswich  a  favorite    resort    for  is  in  striking  harmony  with  its  character.     This  environment, 

artists  through  the  summer.     The  scenery  is  that  which  .Mr.  indeed,  is  doubtless  less  austere  than  that  of  the  house  in  its 

J.  Appleton  Brown  loves  to  paint,  pastoral  and  idyllic,  with  primitive  days.     But  in  its  quaint  charm  it  reproduces  the 

its  rolling  uplands,  its  tranquil  waters  and  its  placid  marshes  effect  of  the  grounds  of  the  Colonial  mansion  at  their  best,  a 

that  enter  in  among  the  hills  in  mysterious  tree  irinj^ed  bays  century  later;  grounds  such  as  this  house  may  then  well  have 

/and  coves.     Artists  come  hither  by  the  score  to  feast  upon  possessed.     And   a  work  of  this  character  and  public  im- 

the  beauty  of  the  countryside.     And  Ipswich  is  the  home  of  portance,  truly  monumental  in  intention,  demands  surround- 

two  painters  of  national  repute,  Mr.  Arthur  W.  Dow,  whose  ings  that  betoken  the  esteem  in  which  it  is  held. 

birthplace  it  is  and  who  has  found  here  many  of  his  strikingly  When  the  work  was  undertaken  it  seemed  an  heroic  task 
original  themes;  and  Mr.  Theodore  Wendel,  whose  wife  is  a 
daughter  of  the  town. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  arrange  a  more  delightful  excursion 
for  a  summer-day  than  to  start  out  early  in  the  morning  from 
Boston    on  a  trolley-trip   to    Ipswich    by  way  of  Lynn  and 

Salem  and  through  the  diversified  scenery  of  Essex  County,  character  that  so  frequently  obtains  in  the  neighborhood  of 

arriving  in   time   to   inspect   the   old  Whipple   House,  and  a  railway,  even  in  a  good  old  rural  town.     But  intelligence 

then,  after  luncheon,  taking  the  little  steamboat  that  plies  and  energy  soon  radically  changed  the  face  of  things.     The 

between  Ipswich  and  Newburyport  twice  a  day  upon  a  fas-  head  and  front  of  the  Ipswich  Historical  Society  is  its  presi- 

cinating  voyage    down    the    river    and    by  the    inside   route  dent,   the   Kev.  T.  Frank   Waters,   pastor  of  the  Trinitarian 


to  effect  creditable  results  from  the  conditions  into  which 
the  house  and  its  \icinage  had  fallen  from  their  once  high 
estate.  The  structure  was  shabby  and  dilapidated  with  mis- 
use, and  mutilated  by  various  successive  reconstructions, 
while    its    surroundings    were    of    the    depressingly    squalid 


"4 


THE   GEORGIAX  PERIOD. 


Congregational  Church,  and  throwing  himself  into  the  work  his  report  at  the  first  annual  meeting  of  the  Society,  celebrat- 

with  heart  and  soul,  the  ancient  house  seemed  to  resume  its  ing  the  achievement  of  one  of  its  prime  declared  objects  in 

proper  guise  as  if  under  the  touch  of  magic.     As  the  in-  "  the  preservation  of  and  finishing  in  Colonial  style  of  one  of 

vesiigations  necessary  to  the  required  repairs  proceeded,  tlie  the  ancient   dwelling-iiouses  of  said    Ipswich":    'The  size 

original    state    and   shape   of   the   building   were   gradually  and  quality  of  these  superb  oak-beams,  their  finely  finished 

revealed  sufficiently  to  atYord  a  sure  guidance  in  the  work  of  moulded   edges,  the   substantial  oak    floor  joists,  the   great 


restoration.  This  work,  however,  could  not  possibly  have 
been  so  complete,  had  not  the  mechanics  employed  given 
themselves  to  the  work  with  an  enthusiastic  devotion.  And 
the  e.xisteiice  among  these  of  names  like  Sullivan  and  Thibe- 
deau,  besides  names  savoring  of  the  soil,  like  Choate,  Goditt 
and  Lord,  show  how  completely  the   late-coming   elements 


posts,  with  their  escutcheons  so  laboriously  wrought,  the 
noble  size  of  these  four  great  rooms,  proclaim  that  this  was 
a  iiome  of  wealth  and  refinement,  and  make  it  easy  for  us  to 
believe  that  it  was  the  finest  mansion  of  the  town." 

The  work  of  restoration  required  patience,  thoroughness 
and  delicacy.     All  the  woodwork  had  to  be  laboriously  and 


assimilate  themselves  to  the  New  England  spirit  of  the  best  carefully  scoured  to  remove  the  grime  and  whitewash  with 
old  communities.  Mr.  Thibedeau,  for  instance,  though  which  it  was  coated  in  layer  after  layer.  The  process  of 
employed  as  a  carpenter,  was  specially  commended  by  the  reconstruction  was  fascinating  to  follow  in  its  revelation 
committee  in  charge  for  his  wonderful  patience  and  persist-  of  the  peculiarities  of  ancient  methods  of  house-building, 
ence  in  giving  weeks  of  hard  and  painstaking  toil  to  scraping  The  spaces  between  the  studs,  from  sill  to  plate,  were  found 
and  scrubbing  the  woodwork,  always  standing  in  perfect  fiUed-in  with  brickwork,  and  this  was  preserved  so  far  as 
readiness  to  do  anything  however  far  removed  from  his  possible.  In  one  of  the  chambers,  the  manner  of  this  con- 
natural province.  It  is  particularly  gratifying  to  note  these  struction  is  exhibited  by  means  of  a  plate  of  glass  set  into 
facts,  testifying  to  the   persistence  of  the  old  spirit  of  the  the  wall  and  framed  with  the  care  that  might  be  shown  f  ^r 


a  treasured  old  master.  The  places  where  the  handsome  old 
windows  were  was  shown  with  exactness,  and  their  restora- 
tion proved  one  of  the 
most  effective  features  of 
the  house,  bringing  it 
closer  into  relation  with 
its  models  across  the  sea, 
where  the  same  form  of 
window  is  to-day  in  com- 
mon use.  It  was  of 
course  easy  to  disclose 
the  fireplaces  that  had 
been  shut  in  to  allow  the 
substitution  of  the  ugly 
and  economical  stove. 
But  these  were  small  fire- 
places of  comparatively 
modern  date,  nesting 
within  the  enormous 
originals  built  of  stone  — 

mendable  work  of  restoration  and  created  one  of  the  finest      the  latter  so  well  preserved  that  it  was  an  easy  matter  to 
historical  monuments  in  the  country,  a  perfect  specimen  of      restore  them  in   all   their  completeness.     Much   of  the  old 


artisan  who  finds  pleasure  in  his  work,  when  so  much  is  said 
nowadays  about  the  decline  of  the  modern  mechanic  and  his 
departure  from  old-time 
standards.  But  in  this 
instance,  with  the  good 
old  New  England 
'•faculty"  guiding  the 
work,  from  the  highest  to 
the  lowest,  and  practi- 
cally the  whole  com- 
munity showing  the 
deepest  interest,  the  ends 
were  achieved  with  aston- 
ishing economy  and  com- 
pleteness. The  sum  of 
$1,650  purchased  the 
place,  and  an  expenditure 
of  only  a  little  more  than 
a  thousand  dollars  ac- 
complished   this    com- 


The  Whi|)p]e  House,  Ipswicli,  Mass 


the  seventeenth-century  architecture  of  New  England. 

In  the  course  of  restoration  all  the  decayed  spots  were  cut 
out  of  the  ancient  beams  and  new  wood  was  skilfully  inserted, 
the  exterior  was  newly  clapboarded  and  shingled  —  clap- 
boards, it  seems,  preceded  shingles  as  a  covering  for  outside 
walls;  diamond-paned  windows,  low  and  broad,  replaced 
the  perpendicular  and  narrow  ones  that  an  ugly  later  fashion 


plastering  was  so  perfect  that  it  did  not  have  to  be  touched. 
And,  by  way  of  experiment,  for  a  deal  of  the  new  work 
made  necessary  to  replace  the  old  plastering,  the  ancient 
fashion  of  making  a  compound  of  clay,  sand  and  salt  hay 
was  tried  with  entire  success. 

Exactly  how  old  the  house  is  has  not  yet  been  ascertained. 
But  it  certainly  dates  back  to  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 


had  given  the  house,  and  a  coat  of  dark  stain  restored  the  century,  and  possibly  a  house  that  stood  on  the  place  when . 

exterior  fully  to  its  old-time  aspect.  its  sale  to  Mr.  John  Whipple,  an  eminent  man  of  Ipswich, 

Within,  comparatively  modern    changes    had    much    sub-  was  completed  by  a  quit-claim  deed  from  John  Fawne  in  the 

divided  the  four  great  rooms  into  which  the  main  part  of  the  year    1650,  may  have    formed    a    portion    of   it.     Mr.  John 

house    was    originally   divided.      All    the    partitions    were  Whipple  had  been  living  on  the  spot  since  1642  at  least.     It 

removed  and   the  rooms  were  restored  to  their  old  shape,  has  been  well  established,  however,  that  in  the  first  years  of 

In  each  was  built  a  huge  fireplace  in  the  old  style.     When  the  Colony  the  Puritans  very  seldom  built  the  roomy  and 

the  plaster  ceilings  were  torn  away  the  original  Hoor-joists  of  coinfortable  dwellings  that  it  has  been  supposed  they  did. 

hewn  oak  were  revealed,  with  the  original  plastering  between  Their  first  abodes  were  huts  and  dug-outs,  inferior  to  the  rude 


them.  The  big  beams  and  the  joists  were  carefully  scraped 
and  oiled,  and  the  contrast  between  their  rich  brown  hue 
and  the  while  of  the  plaster  between  them  gave  to  the  large 
rooms  with  their  \ery  low  ceilings  —  which  a  person  of 
average  height  can  easily  touch  with  his  hand  —  an  appear- 
ance that  is  picturesque,  and  at  the  same  time  is  dignified 
with  the  air  of  old-time  stateliness.     As  the  president  said  in 


dwellings  of  the  pioneers  on  the  prairies  of  the  U'est.  Some 
years  passed  before  the  accepted  Colonial  home,  even  in  its 
humblest  shape,  began  to  appear  with  the  development  of 
well-being  in  the  land.  Even  the  rough  shanty  where  Italian 
laborers  huddle  would  have  been  deemed  luxurious  by  our 
Puritan  ancestors  in  their  first  years  in  the  New  World. 
The  Whipple  House  in  its  present  shape  is  a  growth  formed 


Till-    IfOTI-L    CfA'NY  OF  A    XEW  KNGLAXD    VILLAGE. 


75 


by  successive  enlargements  made  in  the  course  of  a  consider- 
able number  of  years.  In  its  original  shape  it  apparently 
consisted  of  what  is  now  the  western  half  of  the  main  portion. 
First  ihe  house  was  doubled  in  size  and  then  two  successive 
additions  were  made  in  the  rear,  giving  it  the  long  sloping 
roof  on  the  north  side  so  characteristic  of  many  old  farm- 
houses. In  its  present  shape,  therefore,  the  house  in  its 
very  old  portion  comprises  four  rematkably  large  rooms, 
two  on  the  ground-floor  and  two  above,  each  wiih  a  fireplace 
big  enough  to  contain  great  logs  of  wood.  In  the  adapta- 
tion of  the  house  to  the  uses  of  the  Historical  Society,  and 
its  conversion  into  what  may  be  called  a  museum  of  the 
ancient  New  England  home,  each  of  these  four  rooms,  with 
its  collections,  has  been  given  a  typical  character. 

First  and  chief  of  these  comes  the  '"  hall  "  in  the  great  east 
room.  This  is  by  no  means  the  hall  of  the  eighteenth 
century  Colonial  mansion  —  the  spacious  entrance-room,  with 
its  stately  staircase,  running  through  the  centre  of  the  house. 
Here  the  front  door  is  likewise  in  the  middle,  but  a  tall 
man  must  stoop  to  enter,  and  keep  stooping  while  in  the 
diminutive  entry,  where  a  steep  and  narrow  flight  of  stairs 
twists  itself  upward  besides  the  gigantic  chimney-stack  that 
shows  how  its  original  size  was  doubled  when  the  house  was. 
In  New  Eigland,  as  in  old,  the  hall  was  the  common  gather- 
ing-place of  the  family  —  the  place  where  the  meals  were 
cooked  and  eaten,  where  the  spinning  and  weaving  was  done, 
where  the  household  came  together  to  enjoy  the  heat  and 
the  light  of  the  enormous  fire  on  the  hearth  beneath  a 
chimney  which,  as  Mr.  Waters  tells  us,  was  ample  enough  to 
allow  boys  on  mischief  bent  to  drop  a  live  calf  from  the  roof, 
as  they  did  one  night  into  poor  old  Mark  Quilter's  kitchen. 
It  was  often  a  scene  of  much  jollity,  we  may  believe,  for  the 
Puritans  could  not  always  and  universally  have  maintained 
their  traditional  austerity.  And  the  room  was  so  spacious 
that  we  maybe  sure  that  it  invited  to  no  little  frolicsomeness 
among  the  young  folks,  and  we  may  even  fancy  that  at  times 
the  floor  was  cleared  for  a  bouncing  good  dance.  So  the 
place  was  a  "hall"  in  the  amplest  sense  of  the  word.  It 
was  not  until  a  much  later  date  that  the  room  became  exclu- 
sively a  kitchen.  And  our  Irish  fellow-citizen,  even  though 
he  may  have  rolled  up  wealth  in  city  contracts,  is  but  per- 
petuating the  traditions  of  the  baronial  hall  when  he  insists 
on  spending  his  home  hours  sitting  by  the  kitchen-stove  in 
his  shirt-sleeves,  with  clay-pipe  in  mouth. 

The  beautiful  old  hall  of  the  Whipple  house  is  a  fascinat- 
ing gallery  of  the  quaint  utensils  of  domestic  and  industrial 
use  in  the  old-time  New  England  home  —  everything  that 
entered  into  kitchen-service,  barn-service,  field-service,  spin- 
ning, weaving,  etc.,  beside  various  things  whose  purposes 
the  most  patient  research,  the  most  ingenious  conjecture, 
have  not  yet  been  able  to  discover.  We  laugh  at  the  clinnsi- 
ness  of  certain  of  these  utensils,  but  we  are  compelled  to 
admire  the  simple  way  in  which  many  others  met  the  needs 
of  the  time.  Clever  examples  of  Yankee,  or  pre  Yankee, 
ingenuity  are  some  of  these  things:  for  instance,  the  '•cradle- 
churn,"  where  the  milk  was  contained  in  a  long,  trough-like  re- 
ceptacle mounted  lengthwise  on  rockers.  As  the  housewife 
and  others  went  about  their  domestic  tasks  they  would  give 
it  a  touch  in  passing.  This  was  sufficient  to  keep  it  going, 
and  so  the  butter  was  made  without  any  appreciable  effort. 

In  the  corner  of  the  large  west  room  there  remained  a  fine 
old  buffet  as  a  relic  of  the  olden  days.     This  suggested  the 


wainscotting  of  the  room  with  some  handsome  panelling 
taken  from  an  old  house  in  the  town,  the  Rogers  Manse, 
built  in  1728,  and  given  to  the  Historical  Society  by  the 
owner.  Over  the  mantel  a  quaint  painted  panel  represent- 
ing a  panoramic  view  of  Ipswich  town  from  the  river,  with 
Heart  Break  Hill  in  the  b.Tckground,  and  the  water  enlivened 
with  old-fashioned  shipping,  was  inserted.  The  woodwork 
was  painted  white,  making  a  typical  eighteenth-century  room 
of  it.  This  is  appropriately  used  for  the  exhibition  of  old 
china  and  crockery,  silver,  etc.,  old-fashioned  musical  instru- 
ments, a  collection  of  rare  old  books,  pamphlets  and  manu- 
scripts, and  many  other  interesting  things. 

The  east  ciiamber  has  been  made  the  meeting-room  of  the 
Society  and  fitted  up  after  the  fashion  of  an  old-style  "best 
room,"  enriched  with  many  beautiful  old  curios  of  historic 
value.  The  interest  taken  in  the  old  house  brought  to  the 
collections  in  these  three  rooms  an  extraordinary  number 
of  antiquities,  given  or  loaned  not  only  by  the  people  of 
Ipswich,  but  by  friends  throughout  Essex  County  and  in 
many  other  parts  of  the  country. 

The  west  chamber  was  made  the  room  of  the  resident  care- 
taker. It  was  a  piece  of  good  fortune  for  the  Society  to 
secure  for  this  responsible  position  a  lady  of  the  experience 
and  capacity  of  Miss  Alice  A.  Gray,  curator  of  the  Depart- 
ment of  Textiles  in  the  Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  and  a 
niece  of  the  famous  botanist,  the  late  Prof.  Asa  Gray.  It 
was  equally  a  pleasure  for  Miss  Gray  to  make  her  home  in 
an  ideal  old-fashioned  house  and  to  supervise  the  arrange- 
ment of  its  fascinating  collections.  Beside  using  the  west 
chamber  as  her  office,  she  has  fitted  it  up  as  a  typical  old  style 
"best  chamber"  —  a  special  addition  to  the  attractions  of 
the  house  The  rear  portion  of  the  house  was,  moreover, 
converted  into  a  charming  apartment  for  herself  and  her 
housekeeper  ;  a  cosy  suite  with  a  delightful  air  of  old-fashioned 
comfort  unobtrusively  reinforced  by  the  modern  conveniences 
without  which  life  in  a  house  of  the  kind  would  be  a  pastime 
that  a  child  of  the  nineteenth  century  would  soon  weary  of. 
-An  attractive  feature  of  this  suite  is  the  row  of  snug  little 
chambers  with  slant  ceilings  under  the  roof  on  the  second 
floor. 

A  sort  of  thorn  in  the  flesh  for  the  Historical  Society, 
after  the  completion  of  its  task,  was  the  uncomfortable 
proximity  of  a  most  disreputable-looking  old  tenement-house 
on  the  rear  side,  between  the  ancient  mansion  and  the  rail 
way-track,  But  one  day  Miss  Gray  iiad  a  visit  from  a  Boston 
friend,  a  lady  whose  means  enable  her  to  follow  her  natural 
inclination  to  do  all  sorts  of  good  deeds.  The  visitor  was 
thoroughly  delighted  with  what  had  been  accomplished,  and 
the  next  day  Miss  Gray  received  from  her  a  check  for  $2,000 
to  enable  the  Society  to  complete  its  work  by  giving  its  home 
a  suitable  environment  through  getting  rid  of  the  adjacent 
eyesore.  With  this  money  not  only  was  the  tenement-house 
purchased  and  demf)lished,  but  a  new  old-fashioned  garden 
was  laid  out  on  its  site,  and  about  the  ancient  dwelling:  a 
gay  multitude  of  the  blooms  cherished  by  our  mothers,  our 
grandmothers,  our  great  grandmothers,  and  losing  no  favor 
in  the  eyes  of  ourselves  or  our  children,  assemble  their 
gladsome  motley  before  the  sober  gray  of  the  ancient  walls; 
a  box-bordered  walk  leading  up  to  the  caretaker's  door  past 
a  handsome  sun-dial  of  stone  :  a  well  with  its  old-time  sweep 
at  the  side  of  the  house.  These  touches  made  the  whole 
complete.  Sylvester  BAXtKU. 


A  Few  Northern  and  Southern  Peculiarities. 


MONGST   the    several    particulars    in    which   the     of  the  manufactured  goods  which  were  naturally  consumed 


A  Colonial  architecture  of  the  Northern  States  differs 
from  that  common  in  Maryland  and  Virginia,  where 
lie  the  most  interesting  and  typical  examples  of 
Southern  work,  is,  first,  the  difference  of  building-material,  the 
Northern  man  of  wealth  commonly  building  his  house  of 
wood,  while  his  Virginian 
contemporary  more  often 
made  use  of  brick.  Two 
facts  may  explain  this 
difference.  No  wood  is 
more  delightful  to  work 
in,  and  few  woods  stand 
the  passage  of  time 
better,  than  the  white- 
pine,  which  was  to  be 
had  in  such  abundance 
and  at  such  slight  cost 
by  the  early  house- 
builder  at  the  North, 
and,  as  the  relative  light- 
ness of  the  timber  al- 
lowed quick  handling, 
this,  added  to  the  ease 
of  working  it,  made 
wood-built  houses  far 
cheaper  than  they  could 
be  at  the  South,  where 
the  pine  and  other 
timber-trees  were  of  less 
kindly  nature.  It  thus 
became  at  tiie  North  a 
mere  matter  of  course  to 
build  almost  everything 
of  wood,  even  though 
clay-pits  were  as  good 
and  as  accessible  as  the 
clay-beds  of  Virginia. 
This  would  account  for 
the  general  use  of  wood 
in  the  North,  but  it  does 
not  explain  why  brick, 
since  much  of  it  was  im- 
ported from  England,  might  not  have  been  used  with  the  natural  economic  and  nautical  law,  quite  as  much  as  the 
same  frequency  by  gentlemen  in  the  North  as  in  the  South,  whim  or  prejudice  of  the  heads  of  Southern  families,  that 
The  probable  explanation  is  this:  the  country  was,  during  accounts  for  one  of  the  essential  dififerences  between  the 
the  reigns  of  the  Georges,  self-supporting  to  a  large  degree  ;  Southern  and  Northern  mansion  of  the  period.  Northern 
it  produced  its  own  provender,  of  course,  and  also  the  builders  did  use  brick,  of  course,  for  chimneys,  for  the  nog- 
clothes  required  by  the  commonality,  and  in  the  same  way  ging  of  the  exposed  north  and  east  walls  of  wooden  houses, 
home   manufacturers   were   already  able    to    produce    much 


The  Difference  (if  the  Point  of-view  :    a  Cii^e  nf  divided  Ownei'sliii  . 


by  people  of  small  means.  The  imports  from  abroad,  then, 
consisted  mainly  of  such  wares  as  the  more  wealthy  required, 
luxuries,  fine  furniture,  machinery  that  could  not  yet  be 
produced  in  our  machine-shops,  high-bred  stock,  and  so  on, 
and,  as  the  bulk  of  these  goods  was  not  very  great,  not  very 

many  ships  were  required 
for  their  transport.  On 
the  other  hand,  the  ex- 
ports from  this  country, 
consisting  already  of 
cereals  and  some  cotton, 
but  more  largely  of  to- 
bacco, commodities  of 
considerable  bulk,  re- 
quired a  good  many  ships 
to  carry  them,  or,  what 
amounts  to  the  same 
thing,  the  repeated  voy- 
aging of  a  smaller  fieet. 
The  natural  result  was 
that  the  inward  freight 
ran  lighter  than  the  out- 
ward, and  shipmasters 
were  glad  to  bring  over 
the  bulky  building-ma- 
terials whether  as  low- 
paying  freight  or  as  the 
mere  ballast  required  by 
an  empty  ship  if  she  is 
to  be  able  to  lay  her 
course.  As  the  bulky 
tobacco  crop  was,  of 
course,  loaded  at  the 
wharves  of  the  Southern 
planters,  it  was  natural 
that  they  more  than 
their  Northern  neighbors 
should  profit  by  the 
brick  which  served  as 
the  useful  ballast  for  the 
light  incoming  vessels. 
It  was  this  working  of  a 


'  By  permission  from  photographs  of  Frank  Cousins. 


76 


A    F]-l\-  NORTHERN  AND   SOUTHERN  PECULIARITIES. 


77 


and  some  buildings  were  built  entirely  of  brick  ;  these  bricks, 
too,  were,  as  was  natural,  of  English  sizes,  but  we  believe 
that  most  of  them  were  of  home  make.  In  fact,  toward  the 
close  of  the  eighteenth  century  Boston  was  tlie  centre  of  a 
large  brick-burning  industry,  something  like  four  millions 
a  year  being  produced  in  Medford  alone;  but  Boston  was 
then  becoming  a  large  town  and  the  bricks  were  consumed 
in  the  building  of  the  early  city  blocks  and  not  in  the  isolated 
houses  of  the  gentry. 

The  growth  of  the  typical  Southern  house-plan,  due  to  the 
employment  of  colored  house- 
servants  and  the  desirability  of 
segregating  them  from  the  white 
occupants  of  the  homestead, 
has  already  been  explained 
elsewhere,  but  there  is  one 
feature  of  the  plan  which  is 
quite  common  in  the  Southern 
arrangement  of  rooms  which 
is  extremely  rare  in  the  North- 
ern. In  many  of  the  Southern 
mansions  there  was  provided 
a  room  which  was  originally 
used  as  a  ballroom  and  is  still 
known  by  that  name.  It  is 
beyond  question  that  the 
Southern  families  had,  and  still  have,  quicker  social  sympa- 
thies than  the  descendants  of  the  Puritans,  whose  cominj;s  and 
goings  were  controlled  by  the  statutes  and  conventions  that 
preceded  the  ''blue  laws."  The  early  sumptuary  laws  that  for- 
bade the  wearing  of  fine  clothing  or  the  purchase  of  '■  any  ap 
parel,  either  woolen,  silk,  or  linen,  with  any  lace  on  it,  silver, 
gold,  silk  or  thread,  under  the  penalty  of  forfeiture  of  such 
clothes,"  had  been  modified,  and  so,  too,  had  the  prohibition 


Skelcli  of  Ball-room 


lection  in  favor  of  the  hipped  roof  and  was,  towards  the  end 
of  the  eighteenth  century,  rather  inclined  to  a  flatiish  slope, 
particularly  when  slate  was  used  in  place  of  shingle.  But 
the  essential  difference  lies  in  the  more  frequent  use  by  the 
Northerner  of  the  deck-roof,  the  deck  usually  surrounded  by 
a  decorative  balustrade  of  posts  and  palings.  In  most  cases 
builders  were  content  with  short  hips  of  about  the  same 
length  for  all  houses,  which  resulted  in  giving  a  larger  or 
smaller  deck  according  to  the  superficial  area  of  the  plan  ; 
but  sometimes  the  deck  was  treated  as  a  monitor,  with  low 

vertical  sides,  with  oblong  win- 
dows intervening  between  the 
upper  deck-roof  and  the  lower 
sloping  one.  This  type  is  ex- 
hibited in  rather  grotesque  ex- 
aggeration in  the  old  Leviness 
house  on  City  Island,  N.  Y., 
where  the  house  is  closed-in  by 
two  monitor  roofs,  as  it  were, 
one  above  the  other,  of  sizes 
decreasing  with  the  ascent  of 
the  stories.  The  genesis  of 
this  type  of  roof,  which  is  par- 
ticularly common  in  the  coast- 
towns  of  New  England,  we  are 
inclined  to  ascribe  to  the  fact 
that  the  owners  of  the  houses,  if  not  themselves  shipmasters, 
were  or  had  been  ship-owners,  and  felt  the  need  of  an  ele- 
vated place  from  which  they  could  watch  for  the  incoming  of 
their  latest  "  venture."  It  is  but  an  architectural  modifica- 
tion of  the  ubiquitous  cupola  which,  in  simple  or  complex 
form,  is  the  common  feature  of  the  littoral  architecture  of 
New  England  coast-towns.  As  Salem  was  the  seat  of  the 
lucrative  East  India  trade  and  so  was  the  home  of  many  a  re- 


House,  Woburii,  Mass. 


Count  Rumford's  House,  W'obun:,  Mass. 

against  "mixt  dances";  but  the  relics  of  hereditary  training 
still  lingered  in  society  and  it  was  not  considered  essential 
that  every  man  living  on  his  own  estate  a  few  miles  out  of 
town  should  provide  himself  with  a  ball-room  especially 
devoted  to  social  pleasures.  Ordinarily,  the  front  and  b.ick 
parlors,  with  their  one  folding-door,  or  their  two  doors,  one 
on  either  side  of  a  central  fireplace,  serverl  tiie  purposes  of 
daily  and  occasional  social  duties.  Still,  the  special  ball- 
room, such  as  tiiat  in  Count  Ruinforrl's  house  at  Woburn.  is 
to  be  found  here  and  there  in  Northern  houses  of  the  times. 
In  still  another  particular,  in  point  of  design,  there  is  a 
difference  between  the  Northern  and  the  Southern  house,  and 
this  difference  is  to  be  found  in  the  treatment  of  the  roof. 
While  the  Southern  designer  seems  to  have  used  tlie  pitch 
roof  and  the  hipped  roof  indifferently,  he  was  rather  more 
inclined  to  the  pitched  roof,  and  when  he  used  a  hipped  roof 
his  roof-slope  was  rarely  less  than  forty-five  degrees.  On 
the  other  hand,  the  Northern  designer  had  a  distinct  predi- 


Leviness  House,  City   Island,  N.  V. 

tired  shipmaster  the  deck-roof  house  is  rather  a  characteristic 
of  the  place. 

Just  why  the  interior  woodwork  of  the  Northern  house 
should  have  the  greater  refinement  and  delicacy  usually 
ascribed  to  it.  as  compared  with  Southern  work  of  the  same 
time  and  evidL-nt  cost,  is  not  easy  to  determine,  unless  the 
reason  lies  in  tlie  fact  that  much  of  the  Southern  finish  must 
have  been  worked  and  set  up  by  negro  carpenters,  who  did 
what  they  did  with  somewhat  of  Chinese  iniitativeness,  and 
did  not  have  that  personal  appreciation  of  fitness  and  the  love 
of  thorough  work  that  used  to  distinguish  the  all-round  New 
England  woodworker.  Upon  one  point  we  are  fairly  satis- 
fied, and  that  is  that  the  great  ingeiniity,  beauty  and  variety 
displayed  in  the  newels  and  hand-railings  of  Northern  stair- 
cases, virtues  which  make  them  incomparably  more  interest- 
ing than  staircases  found  elsewhere,  must  be  due  to  that 
guild  of  skilled  ship-carvers  whose  prowess  in  turning-out 
figure-heads    finally    stimulated    that    ridiculous   personage, 


rs 


THE   GEORGTAN  PERIOD. 


Timothy,  Lord  Dexter,  to  surround  his  house  at  Newbury-  tools  which  was  not  so  likely  to  be  acquired  by  any  other 
port  with  some  two  score  of  effigies,  which  he  amused  himself  class  of  artisan  than  the  ship-carvers,  the  fact  that  these 
by  naming  and   renaming   as   the  whim   seized   him.     Still     twisted  balusters  are  so  evidently  based  on  rope  forms  would 


Box-stairs:    the  Timothy  Onie   IlotisCj   Ksscx  .Street,  S.Tlein,  Mass.^  Box-stairs;    IJrowii   House,  .Summer  Street,  Salem,  Mass.^ 

there  is  so  much  skill  and  ingenuity,  so  much  mathematical  remind  one  that  these  carvers  habitually  made  use  of  the 

knowledge  displayed  in  working-out  some  of  the  "turned  and  rope-moulding,    both    hawser-laid    and   cable-laid,   both    in 

twisted"  newel-posts  that,  on  the  whole,  it  seems  probable  cabin  fittings  and  in  the  flamboyant  decorations  about  the 


Doorway    al    Clarkson  NJ.Y. 


^gjij 


^^MUM- 


.    Inches 


Old    Colo;iial    WorK    on   the    Ridge    Road 
McasuiefJ    and    dt-awn    by   J.F.StrobcI    Jr 


that  they  may  have  been  all  the  work  of  a  single  and  spe-  old-fashioned  cabin  galleries  and  the  figure-heads  at  the  bow, 

cially  gifted  artisan,  and,  if  so,  it  is  regrettable  that  he  is  and  that  it  would  be  not  difficult  for  an  ingenious-minded 

nameless.     Aside  from  the    dexterity   in   handling  carving-  man  to  pass  from  the  cutting  of  a  cable-laid  moulding  to  the 

""i  ]iy  permission  from  pliuto-raphs  of  Frank  CousinsT  working-out  of  a  twisted  newel-post.     The  twisted  baluster 


A   FEW  NORTHERN  AND  SOUTHERN  PECULIARITIES. 


79 


itself  was  not,  of  course,  invented  by  these  men,  as  the  form 
was  imported  from  England  together  with  other  features  of 
the  style,  but  the  fact  that  it  is  in  such  common  use  in  sea- 
port towns  like  Salem  —  where  a  greater  variety  is  to  be  found 
than  elsewhere  —  certainly  suggests  that  in  such  places  there 
was  a  class  of  men  specially  skilled  in  work  of  that  character. 
Whether  to  these  men  was  duo  the  more  purely  architectural 
carving  involved  in  some  of  the  composite  and  Corinthian 
capitals,  there  is  more  reason  to  doubt :  but  whoever  carved 
these  capitals  were  workmen  of  no  mean  order,  for  surely 
one  would  have  to  travel  far  before  he  could  find  a  more  ad- 
mirable set  of  Corinthian  capitals  than  that  which  lends  grace 
to  Bulfinch's  colonnade  of  the  Massachusetts  State-house. 

Where  so  much  attention  was  given  to  one  member  of  a 
staircase,  it  was  only  natural  that  the  other  members  should 
be  brought  into  proper  relation  of  elaboration  with  it,  and  the 


negatived  by  want  of  refinement  in  the  treatment  of  the 
details,  due,  in  part,  to  that  lack  of  ability  on  the  part  of 
the  Southern  artisan  spoken  of  before  and,  perhaps,  in  some 
degree  to  the  misunderstood,  and  so  pernicious  influence  of, 
French  work,  more  or  less  Rococo  in  form  and  spiiit,  which 
had  found  its  way  into  this  country  by  way  of  the  Southern 
seaports.  On  the  whole,  however,  we  are  inclined  to  attribute 
the  greater  refinement  and  delicacy  of  Northern  work  to  the 
temperamental  and  inherited  conscientiousness  of  the  North- 
ern workman,  and  to  that  peculiarly  Yankee  wideawakeness 
and  native  ingenuity  which  still  causes  the  artisans  of  their 
blood  to  work  with  their  heads  as  much  as  with  their  hands, 
with  all  their  perceptions  on  the  alert  to  do  things  in  the 
best  way  and  the  last  thing  taken  in  hand  by  a  better  method 
than  the  first.  The  impress  of  active  inventiveness  and  per- 
sonal ingenuity  is  observable  in  Northern  work  everywhere. 


i 


Dketl-i  of 


I>oorway  on  South  Main  Street,  Providence,  K.  1. 

fine  newels,  rails  and  balusters  of  the  Salem  staircases  are 
kept  in  countenance  by  the  results  of  the  careful  study  that 
was  given  to  the  other  parts,  particular  attention  being  given 
to  the  treatment  of  the  stair-ends.  Without  going  so  far 
as  to  pretend  that  the  box-stair  was  a  feature  peculiar  to 
Salem,  it  may  safely  be  said  that  nowhere  can  be  found  a 
greater  and  more  interesting  variety  of  treatment  of  this  type 
of  stair-building. 

Climatic  conditions,  the  necessity  of  keeping  the  house 
warm  in  severe  weather  and  perhaps  a  certain  Puritan  parsi- 
mony prevented  Northern  builders  from  devoting  to  their 
staircase-halls  the  same  generous  space  that  Southern 
builders  could  safely  indulge  in,  and  this,  of  course,  had  an 
effect  on  the  planning  of  the  stairs  themselves,  and  the 
straight-run  or  the  dog-legged  stair  in  a  comparatively  narrow 
hallway  is  more  common  in  the  North  than  in  the  South. 

But  while  the  planning  of  the  staircase-hall  was  usually 
more  interesting  in  Southern  than  in  Northern  buildings, 
this  superior  interest  was   largely  qualified   and   sometimes 


Newel  and  Railing;    Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Built  at  about  the  same  time  as  they  were,  it  would  yet 
have  been  impossible  for  Bulfinch  and  the  artisans  who  built 
the  interesting  staircase-hall  in  the  McLean  Asylum,  Somer- 
ville,  Mass., —  now  torn  down,  but  the  staircase  bought  and 
preserved  by  some  amateur  whose  name  escapes  us  — to  have 
u.sed  the  unrefined  and  clumsy  forms  adopted  by  the  designer 
and  builders  of  the  staircase  in  the  Pennsylvania  Hospital, 
in  Philadelphia.  Even  in  less  ambitious  work,  in  houses  of 
no  great  architectural  pretentiousness,  such  as  that  on  the 
Ridge  Road,  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  from  which  the  annexed 
details  are  drawn,  there  are  evident  the  clear  traces  of  indi- 
vidual effort  and  native  ingenuity.  In  this  example,  though 
late  in  date,  the  balusters  though  crude  are  still  refined  in 
intention  and  the  elliptical  columns  siiow  that  the  designer 
understood  his  style  and  was  not  content  to  do  his  work  by 
rule  of-thumb. 

So,  too,  in  the  case  of  the  porch  from  Providence,  R.  I., 
there  is  even  greater  evidence  of  native  ingenuity  in  the 
foliated  brackets  that  lake  the  place   of  capitals   upon  the 


Sc 


THE    GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


pilasters.  These  bracket-caps,  crude  though  they  are,  express 
a  genuine  feeling  which  .siiould  attract  the  attention  of  those 
students  who  delight  in  tracing  the  history  of  the  genesis  of  the 
Ionic  volute  or  the  Corinthian  capital,  for  here  is  surely  a  miss- 
ing link  which  may  have  had  its  origin  in  Syria  or  elsewhere. 

The  e.xiyencies  of  climate  ac- 
count, also,  for  the  more  frequent 
use  of  the  covered  piazza  in 
the  South,  the  galleried  or  two- 
storied  piazza  being  one  of  the 
typical  distinctions  of  the  plan- 
tation-house even  to  this  day ; 
but  it  is  pretty  certain  that  in 
most  cases  the  earlier  houses 
were  built  without  them.  It  is 
very  commonly  assumed  that 
the  piazza  is,  if  not  a  specificall) 
.American  architectural  device. 
at  least  one  which  is  not  indi- 
genous to  England.  But  the 
donb'.e  galleries  of  the  Southern 
plantation-house  so  distinctly  recall  the  courtyard  galleries  of 
the  old  English  inns,  from  the  time  of  Elizabeth,  the  Virgin 
Queen,  down  to  that  of  Sain  Weller,  that  it  is  not  impossible 
that  the  ubiquitous  piazza  of  inodern  American  architecture 


Jamaica  House,  Jamaita  Ri 


the  industrious  diarist  Pepys,  and  of  which  a  portion  was  still 
standing  in  1854  near  Bermoiulsey. 

Since,  broadly  speaking,  people  in  the  North  gathered  to- 
gether in  more  or  less  compact  settlements,  villages  and  towns 
sooner  than  in  the  South  and  so  found  a  need  for  separating 

and  bounding  fences,  perhaps 
there  can  be  found  in  Northern 
towns  a  greater  variety  of  gates, 
posts  and  railings  than  is  to  be 
found  in  the  more  open  regions 
of  the  South.  Still  in  such 
places  as  Charleston,  S.  C,  one 
finds  quite  as  much  interesting 
material  of  this  sort  as  elsewhere, 
and  in  addition,  moreover,  an 
exceptionally  interesting  display 
of  wrouglu-iron  railings,  window- 
screens,  brackets,  etc. 

Doubtless  the  temperamental 

difference  between  the  North- 
ad,  liermondsey,  in  1667.  j  ..1       c       .1  1  j 

erner  and  the  Southerner  showed 
itself  in  the  decorative  treatment  of  the  walls  and  inside  finish, 
but  how  that  difference  declared  itself  we  profess  to  have  no 
knowledge.  Dutch  tiles  were  imported  indifferently  into  both 
sections,  handsome  mahogany  furniture  \,-as  equally  in  use 


Entrance  Hall  :   Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Pliiladelpliia,  Pa.    [i7'/>.] 


may  be  derived  from  the  Shakespearean  inn.  via  the  houses  of  and  proper  backgrounds  had  to  be  provided  for  it,  and  walls 
Southern  and  West  Indian  planters.  The  fact  that  the  ex-  had  to  be  prepared  for  the  se;ting-off  of  oil-portraits  of  near 
ternal  piazza  was  not  unknown  to  the  England  of  Wren's  time  or  remote  ancestors.  But  how  walls  were  treated  before  the 
is  shown  by  the  annexed  sketch  of  "  Jamaica  House  "  —  per-  introduction  of  the  scenic  wallpaper  and  whether  all  standing- 
haps  built  by  a  returned  West  Indian  —  once  frequented  by  finish  was  painted  white  is,  so  far  as  we  know,  undetermined. 


The  Georgian  Houses  of  New  England.' 


IN  England,  during  the  last  fifty  years,  one  historical  style 
after  another  has  found  favor  with  architects  and  their 
clients.  The  "Vitnivius  Britannicus"  shows  what  a 
hold  Palladian  design  had  on  that  country.  The  Houses 
of  Parliament  and  the  new  Law  Courts  indicate  quite  differ- 
ent tendencies  in  the  public  taste.     Between  these  extremes 


Put  our  heirlooms — any  old  material  we  have — into  a 
mediaeval  room,  and  they  will  be  more  or  less  out  of  keeping. 
In  fact,  with  the  successive  fashions  that  in  recent  years  have 
swept  over  the  country,  we  have  to  build,  not  new  houses 
alone,  but  all  their  furnishings  to  match.  It  would  be  worth 
while  for  us  to  remember  that  our  heirlooms  are  tall  clocks, 


there   were   many  other   "periods"   that   had   their    followers      Copley  or  Stuart  portraits,  convex  mirrors,  ancient  chests  and 
and  when  fashion  turned  for  models  to  the  time  of  Queen      drawers,  bits  of  carving  perhaps   by   Gibbons,   Paul   Revere 


Anne  and  the  Georges  there 
was  at  least  one  strong  ar- 
gfument  to  support  the  move- 
ment. It  was  truly  asserted 
that  this  period  was  the  latest 
one  during  which  art  as  ap- 
plied to  building  was  indige- 
nous, or  at  least  well  under- 
stood by  the  craftsmen  who 
used  it.  The  modern  lovers 
of  this  style  hoped  to  bring 
back  something  of  this  simple 
and  happy  condition. 

The  buildings  that  came  of 
these  endeavors  certainly 
have  a  familiar  and  cosy 
charm.  In  the  homely  work 
of  the  time  of  the  Georges 
architects  found  walls  of  red 
brick  and  white  mortar,  tiled 
roofs,  white  doors  and  sashes, 
and  well-studied  Classical 
finish  in  wood  and  plaster 
within  and  without  the  house. 
They  used  the  same  means  in 
new  work,  and  their  buildings, 
though  supplied  with  comforts 
that  even  Thackeray  himself 
did  not  dream  of.  would  yet 
have  seemed  as  familiar  and 
homelike  to  him  and  to  his 
heroes  as  they  do  to  us. 

In  .America  we.  too,  have  had  successive  revivals  ni  histori- 
cal architecture,  and  back  of  these  we  now  see  there  w;i-i  a 
time  when,  in  the  days  of  the  Georges,  all  our  mechanics 
used  one  simple,  refined  and  beautiful  style  of  detail  .Many 
a  choice  wooden  cornice,  many  a  stiff  wooden  mantel  in  our 
farmhouses  attest  this.  "Plancia,"  "fascia"  and  "soffit"  still 
are  V'ankee  words  in  spite  of  our  periods  of  revival.  In 
short  we  now  have  discovered  that  we,  too.  have  bad  an 
artistic  past  worthy  of  study. 


Christ  Church  T'OId  Norlii  Church''),  Bo-^lon,  Ma^s.    [112s  J 


'Although   some  of   the   houses   here   inciitioiKMl   liave   disyp- 
peared  since  this  paper,  now  carefully  revised,  wa^  inililislKcl  m  ilic 


tankards  or  andirons,  brass 
candlesticks,  and  chairs  that 
came  over  in  the  "Mayflower." 
We  tliink  with  interest  of  the 
parish  glebes  of  Cambridge 
and  Portsmouth,  of  the  old 
Tories'  Row  in  Cambridge. 
Many  are  the  old  wainscoted 
rooms  for  which  we  have  an 
affectionate  remembrance;  the 
staircases  with  boxed  steps 
with  a  rich  scroll  under  each 
bo.x.  anil  with  the  varied  bal- 
usters carved  into  a  twist  by 
hand ;  the  great  brick  chim- 
ney-corners with  Dutch  tile 
borders,  and  crane.  ]iot-hooks 
and  trammels,  and  hanging 
kettles,  and  the  yawning  flues 
resting  on  oak  mantel-l)ars 
and  opening  a  clear  road  to 
the  stars  above.  W'benever 
we  see  these  interiors  we,  too. 
want  to  live  amid  wainscoting, 
nestle  in  elliptical-arched 
nooks,  and  warm  ourselves 
lieneath  the  high  mantels  at 
I)I,-izing  wood  fires,  W'c  want 
lo  see  our  old  chairs  and 
pictures  thus  approjjriatcly 
en\  ironed.  We  want  to  go 
up  to  bed  over  boxed  stairs 
.icuarded  bv  ramped  rails  and  twisted  balusters.  In  short,  in 
this  Colonial  work  we  find  delicacy,  grace  and  picturesque- 
ness.  and,  combined  with  it.  a  familiar  aspect,  and  a  fitness 
to  hannonize  with  all  those  heirlooms  and  old  possessions 
whicli  miglu  be  put  to  shame  by  other  fashions. 

Though  most  of  our  models  are  of  the  Georgian  period, 
here  and  there  one  can  be  found  of  an  earlier  date.  We 
have  our  Charles  River,  our  Cai)e  .\nn,  our  Queen  .\nne's 
( 'orner,   rind    -onie   bouses.   ;[lso   of   early   date.       The   Cradock 

.lincricdii  .hrhitcct.  it  has  seemed  worth  wliile  to  speak  of  them 
a^  existing,  since  tliuy  are  still  mi  well  remembered. 


S  I 


THE   GF.OKGIAX   PERIOD. 


mansion  was  built  in  iho  days  of  diaries  the  First:  the 
I'airbanks  house  in  Dedhani,  and  the  Curtis  house  in  Jamaica 
riain,  during  the 
Comm  o  n  \v  e  a  1 1  h  ; 
and  these  are  still 
o  c  e  n  p  i  e  tl  by  the 
f  a  ni  i  1  i  e  s  of  their 
builders.  The  Prov- 
inee  house'  is  of  the 
time  of  Charles  II; 
the  S  u  d  b  u  r  y  Inn 
of  James  II ;  the 
Batchelder  house 
in  Cambridge  dates 
from  William  and 
Mary;  the  Old  Cor- 
ner Bookstore  from 
Queen  Anne ;  while 
the  President's 
house  and  Massa- 
chusetts Hall  at 
C  a  m  b  r  i  d  g  e,  and 
the  A  d  a  m  s  (once 
X'assall)  h  o  u  s  e  at 
Ouincy,  all  d  a  t  e 
from  the  reign  of 
George  the  First. 
Tliese  are  represen- 
tative houses;  hut 
yet  tlie  richest  and 
finest  models  we 
have,  date  from  be- 
t  w  e  e  n  1727  and 
1760,  when  (ieorge 
II  reigned:  Pep- 
perell  house  in  Kit- 
tery,  1730;  Hancock 
house/  1737:  Royall 
h  o  u  s  e,       Medford, 

1738:  Holden  Chapel.  Caniljridge,  1745;  Wells  mansion,  Cam-       I'.ngla 
bridge.   1745:  W'entworth  house.  Little  Harbor,  1750;  Long-      house 


Ci.ri.^l  Ch'.;i\h.  C:ir.iljridi^u,  .Mass.    j  i  7O1.J    Peter  ilurrison.  Architccl. 


gable  roofs.      Rare   instances  occur   like   the   stone   Cradock 
house  at  Medford.  where  the  gambrel   roof  appears  earlier; 

but  from  1686,  the 
date  of  the  Sudbury 
Inn.  to  1737,  the 
(late  of  the  Hancock 
house,  the  gambrel 
roof  is  common. 
Later  it  became  fre- 
i|uent  to  pitch  the 
roof  in  from  all 
sides  to  a  ridge  or 
to  a  second  pitch 
surrounded  by  a  bal- 
ustrade, and  it  is  un- 
<ler  such  roofs  that 
the  richest  interiors 
of  our  neighborhood 
are  still  found  ;  such 
as  the  Longfellow 
and  Wells  and  Rie- 
desel  houses  in 
Cambridge,  the 
I -add  and  Langdon 
at  Portsmouth,  the 
W  i  n  s  1  o  w  at  Ply- 
mouth, the  Lee  at 
Marblehead. 

Thus  it  appears 
that  the  gambrel 
roof  is  typical  of  but 
one  period  of  Co- 
lonial work.  Where 
did  it  come  from? 
Though  now  and 
then  something  like 
it  is  seen  in  Eng- 
land, it  certainly  is 
not  characteristic  of 


nd.      It    is    said    that    the    bricks    of    Peter    Sergeant's 
afterwards  the   Province   House,  were  brought    from 


The  WaysLle  Inn,  Sudbury.  .\la 


[1OS6.] 


The  Old  Corner  Bookstore.  Boston,  Mass.    [About  1712. 1 


fellow  (\assall)  house.  1759;  Ladd  house.  I'ortsmouth.  1764.  Holland:  and  it  is  at  about  that  date  that  the  gambrel  roof 

If  wv  study  these  Colonial  buildings,  w  e-  see  nearly  all  the  Ijecame  prevalent.      Possilily  il   is  a  reminiscence  of  Holland. 

early    work   in   tliis   neighborhood    roofed    with    steep-pitched  but  whether  bv  wav  of  luigland  or  of  New  York,  it  would  be 

'.\f)vv  (lestrovcd                          ^                  '  '''"■''  "O"'  '"  '"''>•      '  '^'^  ''"'-'''  ''"''  ■''*^''^'-'''  mansions  were  large 


THE  GF.ORGIAX   HOUSES   OF   XEW   EXGLAXD. 


83 


and  square,  and  with  so  little  detail  outside  that  until  in 
recent  times,  when  our  builders  learned  to  give  a  texture  or 
tone  that  emulates  the  effect  of  age,  tliev  feared  to  imitate 
these  plain,  angular  and  box-like  forms — but  now,  as  the 
"Colonial  House"  is  possessing  the  land,  we,  in  turn,  long 
for  the  thin,  sparse  details  of  the  early  models. 

But  severity  of  form  is  by  no  means  a  characteristic  of  all 
Colonial  work.  The  old  Fairbanks  house'  at  Dedham.  part  of 
which  is  of  early  date  with  high-pitched  roof,  and  part  later, 
with  a  gambrel  roof,  forms  a  most  picturesque  pile;  and 
so  does  the  scattered  house"  at  Little  Harbor,  with  gables  at 
different  heights  and  floors  at  different  levels,  and  with  a 
council-chamber  wing  that  runs  off  from  the  main  building  at 
an  uncalled-for  angle  that  would  delight  Mr.  Xorman  Shaw. 
Again,  among  the  gambrel  roofs,  the  great  lumbering  Sud- 
bury Inn,  with  its  wide-spread  barns  and  out-houses,  forms  a 
most    hospitable    group,    and    the    gables    of    the    Goodman 


they  all  have  style  and  elegance,  and  they  may  properly 
furnish  inspiration  to  those  who  are  to  design  nio<k'rn  build- 
ings for  similar  uses  in  those  ancient  neighborhoods. 

The  chief  beauties  of  the  detail  in  all  our  Colonial  work 
lie  in  its  disciplined  and  almost  universal  refinement  and  dig- 
nity, and.  even  when  display  is  attempted,  in  the  absence  of 
vulgarity  or  eccentricity.  Then,  too,  we  find  Classical  detail 
everywhere  used  as  the  common  language  of  every  carpenter, 
and  treated  freely  with  regard  only  for  comfort,  cosiness  or 
stateliness,  and  without  a  too  superstitious  reverence  for 
Palladio  or  Scamozzi.  Hence  arose  a  pure  and  harmonious 
style,  and  one  naturally  inquires  whence  the  information  of 
the  old  builders  came,  and  whether  tradition  and  copying,  as 
in  medi;eval  times,  could  have  led  to  such  a  varied  use  of 
Italian  motifs,  or  whether  for  these  Colonial  carpenters  there 
was  some  more  definite  source  of  instruction. 

The  English  mansions,  which   Xash  and  Richardson  have 


S   -■•■''.,■,„  ";.':.'(i.'.iii  w'.  Ai, 


•:,.'(  I;  VI  iifj  ,;;f  'ii\ir\\!'\  iii 


1 1 


•'  '       ,':!     ^    'n    III       1 


«?3li»J!2.J«S.»Ji^^ 


■'lip 


TheCiirtis  ITtmsc,  Jiini.-iita  Plain.  Mass.    [ift.jy.] 


cottage'  at  Lennox,  low.  broad  and  cosy,  twinkle  their  manv- 
eyed  sashes  over  the  lilac  hedges  of  the  forecourt  as  the 
traveller  passes  through  that  lovely  Berkshire"  countrv. 
These  all  show  us  that  a  picturesque  group  of  any  sort  is 
not  incongruous  with  the  style. 

It  is  not  because  we  have  no  public  buildings  that  I  have 
dwelt  on  the  Colonial  mansions.  The  Old  Xorth  Church 
and  the  King's  Chapel,  the  Old  State-house,  the  Newport 
State-house,  and  the  "Old  Ship"  Meeting-house  at  Hingham 
are  all  excellent  buildings.     Simple  though  some  of  them  are. 


'Plate  25.  Part  I. 

'Sec  page  86. 

'Of  the  Judge  Walker  house,  the  porch  cf  which  forms  the  first 
Plate  of  this  Part,  the  present  owner  of  the  house.  Rnlicrt  C. 
Rockwell,  Esq.,  writes  : — 

"This  house  was  built  in  1804  l)y  Judge  William  Walker,  of 
Lenox,  for  his  son.  Judge  William  Perrin  Walker.  Judge  Rock- 
well married  the  eldest  daughter  of  the  latter.  The  elder  Judge 
Walker  was  in  early  life  a  carpenter  and  builder,  and  proliably 
this  hous  was  built  under  his  immediate  supervision.     Abnut  the 


sketched  for  us  so  thoroughly,  were  of  an  earlier  period  than 
I'u-  Iniilding  days  in  our  country.  Longleat.  Hatfield,  Hol- 
land House,  and  many  of  those  structures  which,  like  Long- 
leat, were  built  under  It.ilian  care,  or.  like  the  others,  bore 
.1  more  or  less  Italian  detail  on  their  niedi;eval  forms,  dat;-' 
from  about  the  time  when  the  Pilgrims  landed  at  Plymouth. 
.Steep  gables  vie  with  jiediments  in  these  compositions,  and 
mullions  and  pointed  ;irches  stand  side  by  side  with  the 
orders.  Of  such  work  no  examples  of  moment  were  raised 
on  our  shores,  for  it  was  doubtless  long  before  buildings  of 

same  time  he  I)uilt  a  compjinion  liouse.  of  smaller  size,  at  Lenox 
I'urnace  ( the  presem  Lenox  Hale)  for  liis  dauiibtor,  tlie  wife  of  I  )i-. 
Cliarles  Wortliin.yton. 

"The  house  at  Lenox  stands  upon  land  known  as  the  "Ministers' 
(irant.'  which  was  granted  by  the  Province  in  I7.?9  to  Ephraini 
Williams  and  others,  as  compensation  for  certain  lands  in  Stock- 
bridge  given  up  for  the  use  of  the  Indian  Mission.  In  the  division 
of  tlie  ■  .Ministers'  Grant'  in  1741,  this  land  was  set  off  to  Jonathan 
I'.dwards.  the  elder.  Judge  Walker  bought  the  house  site  in  180.?. 
and  liuilt  the  house  as  al)ove  stated." 


84 


THE  GEORGIAX  PERIOD. 


any  pretension  were  required 
by  a  struggling  people.  But 
this  was  not  the  case  with  mov- 
able objects,  and  this  Jacobean 
period  has  been  well  handed 
down  to  us  in  the  many  pieces 
of  furniture  brought  over  or 
made  by  the  early  colonists. 
.\s  is  well  known,  the  chairs 
("eputed  to  have  come  over  in  the 
''Mayflower"  might  have  laden 
a  fleet,  and  the  Xew  England 
family  that  does  not  possess 
one  or  more  has  feeble  claim 
to  aristocratic  pretension.  The 
bulbous  legs  and  posts,  the 
ill-formed  pediments,  and  the 
other  details  of  this  period,  ap- 
peared however,  in  our  country, 
in  these  works  alone. 

But  meanwhile  Inigo  Jones 
made  his  two  visits  to  Italy, 
and,  full  of  enthusiasm  for 
Palladio's  work,  made  his  de- 
signs in  a  more  purely  Italian 
manner,  with  well-understood 
detail.  He  even  added  an 
Italian  portico  to  the  noble 
medi;eval  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul. 
When  he  died  in  1652,  Sir  Christopher  Wren  monopolized  ])osite  ends  of  the  house,  and 
all  the  important  English  practice,  working  always  with  much      a   common   landing.     At   the 


Holden  Chapel:  Harvard  University.  CambridRC,  Mass.    [1745.] 


1723,  Sir  Christopher  Wren 
died.  \'anbrugh,  Hawksmoor, 
Gibbs,  Campbell, Taylor,  Adam, 
Chambers,  such  are  the  more 
or  less  familiar  names  of  those 
whose  work  occupied  the  rest  of 
the  century ;  and  the  period 
when  our  Colonial  work  was 
rich  and  interesting  is  thus  in- 
cluded between  the  lives  of 
Jones  and  Chambers.  Their 
taste  is  often  reflected  in  the 
buildings  of  this  time,  which 
indeed  may  have  been  some- 
times of  their  own  designing. 
It  was  the  period  of  rule 
and  method;  of  aliquot  parts, 
modules,  and  minutes.  True, 
this  discipline  was  confined  to 
details;  for,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  exteriors  of  the  houses,  the 
floor  plans  admitted  very  varied 
and  picturesque  effects  which 
principally  regarded  the  stairs. 
.\t  the  Holmes  house  [now  re- 
placed  by  the  Hemenway 
( ^ynmasium]  and  Longfellow 
house  in  Cambridge,  the  front 
and  rear  stairs  start  from  op- 
separate  again  after  meeting  on 
Ladd   house   and   at   one   other 


One  01  llic  Buildings  of  the  MuLcun  Insane  Asylum,  Somervillc,  .Mass.     Charles  Bulfinch,  Architect.     [About  1S20.] 

regard  for  group  and  line,  and  mechanical  skill,  but  with  far      house  in  Portsmouth,  the  stairs  wind  up  in  different  manners 
less   care   for   detail   than   his   predecessor.      In   his    turn,   in      in  the  corner  of  the  larger  hall.     .\t  the  Winslow  house  in 


TI1E   GEORGIAX    HOUSES  OF   XEIV 


Plymouth,  the  stair-landing  crosses  the  door-opening,  and  the 
portion  left  open  above  the  landing  is  filled-in  with  twisted 
balusters.^ 

'Concerning  the  Winslow  house,  Mr.  J.  Everett  Chandler,  archi- 
tect, of  Boston,  writes  of  our  ilhistration,  Plate  2,  as  follows : — 

"The  print  is  a  representation  of  the  entrance  to  the  old  Wins- 
low  house  in  Plymouth,  probably  built  about  1755,  by  a  son  of  Gov- 
ernor Winslow.    Several  years  ago  it  fell  to  my  lot  to  extensively 


EX  GLAND. 

-  -     -r  - 


85 


wings  of  an  area  equal  to  the  old  house  necessitated  other  changes 
until  the  cliaractcr  of  the  house  became  considerably  changed, 
although  the  finish  in  the  additions,  inside  and  out,  was  made  in  the 
spirit  and  period  of  the  old— the  earliest,  strongest,  and  to  my 
mind  the  best,  period  of  Colonial  work.  The  doorway  has  an  in- 
teresting frieze  of  turkeys,  vines,  grapes  and  flowers— looking  like 
a  curious  mi.xture  of  a  copy  from  old  Byzantine  work  and  a  piece 
of  old  embroidery,  very  like  a  piece  I  found  in  an  old  house  near 
by.     I  kept  the  door-frame  exactly  as  it  was,  hoping  it  would  rc- 


S'aircase  in  Main  Building,  McLean  Insane  A^>■luIl),  Somer^iile.  Mass.    Charie-.  Bulfinch   Architect-    [i.^siS  J 


remodel  and  add  to  the  old  house  for  a  Chicago  gentleman,  to  be 
used  by  him  as  a  summer  residence.  The  house  had  already  been 
changed  greatly  in  a  former  remodelling,  an<l  the  four  front 
rooms,  the  fine  hallway  and  the  exterior  door,  shown  in  the  print, 
were  the  only  really  old  portions  of  the  house  left,  an<l  these  have 
been  kept  as  much  as  possible  as  they  were.  But,  on  account  of  the 
proximity  of  the  house  to  two  fine  old  lindens,  the  house  was 
moved  back  30  feet  and  raised  5  feet.     Then  the  addition  of  two 


main  so  many  years,  but  just  as  the  house  was  ncaring  completion 
my  client  announced  that  he  must  have  a  covered  porch  !  So  1 
rtluctaiuly  added  one, — copying  exactly  the  arcliaic-looking  Corin- 
thian oriler,  eiHablaturc,  frieze  and  all — making  an  elliptical 
porch  with  a  domed  top: — so  the  old  doorway  is  still  there, 
although  somewhat  bidden  from  sight." 

'This  staircase  was  referred  to  in  an  earlier  paper.     See  i)age 
79,  ante. 


86 


THE  CEORCIAN   PERIOD. 


Yet.  though  picturesque  effects  add  many  charms  to  tliese 
interiors,  their  distinguished  and  refined  character  could  only 
come  from  respect  for  arcliitcctural  traditions  and  studied 
training  in  the  orders.  It  will  be  found  that  old  libraries 
furnish  the  clew  to  all  this,  much  more  than  might  be  sup- 
posed. The  English  works  alone  on  architecture  which  ap- 
peared in  the  last  century  are  very  numerous  and  very  care- 
fully prepared.  I  have  fountl  a  large  copy  of  Batty  Langley's 
classical  work  in  an  old  loft  in  Xew  Hampshire.  I  doubt 
not  that  such  hooks  were  common  here  in  the  days  when  our 
earlv  work  was  executed,  and  I  think  existing  mantels, 
cornices,  alcoves,  etc..  might  possibly  be  identified  if  these 
books  were  studied. 

Mr.  Eastlake.  in  his  "History  of  the  Gothic  Revival." 
speaks  of  English  works  on  Classical  design  by  Shute.  in 
1563,  and  Sir  Henry  W'otton,  in  1624.  These  I  have  not 
seen :  but  one  can  readily  see  others  in  our  libraries  Gibbs's 
works,  published  in  1739,  included  the  engravings  of  St. 
Martin's  Church  in  London.  Batty  and  Thomas  Langley. 
besides  their  Gothic  book,  which  Mr.  Eastlake  ridicules,  also 
published  an  excellent  Classical  work,  most  of  the  plates  in 
which  are  dated  1739.  Ware's  "Architecture."  which  is  volu- 
minous, and  has  many  plates  of  interiors,  is  dated  1756. 
Chippendale's  book  is  dated  1762,  and  gives  us  furniture  in 
the  "most  fashionable  styles,"  which  were  evidently  French  ; 
and  it  seems  as  if  Governor  Langdon,  who  built  in  1784.  or 
Jeremiah  Lee,  whose  house  dates  from  1768,  had  perhaps 
received  a  copy  of  this  work  before  the  Louis  Quinze  curves 
were  cut  on  their  great  cliimneypieces  at  Portsmouth  and 
Marblehead.  This  same  Chippendale,  whose  chairs  and 
tables,  or  their  copies,  are  fre(|uent  in  America,  besides 
affecting  a  French  taste,  had  a  fancy  for  Chinese  work,  giv- 
ing us  designs  for  chairs  and  railings  in  the  Chinese  manner. 
Chairs   of   tliis   made   arc   to  he    seen   at   T'ortsmouth.      Chip- 


•s.         ^ 

'^S::::—ji= 

'^ — '    liTn.c.BA»(^»o«.- 

1 

-^ 

^-^ —  '  p^feC 

pendale  thus  seems  an  amusing  forenumer  to  the  Queen- 
Anne-Japanese  designer  of  a  recent  day.  Swan's  book 
follows  these  others  in  1768.  with  many  designs  for  mantels 
and  other  work,  and  Paine  publishes  fine  plates  in  1783: 
and  the  third  edition  of  the  correct  and  elegant  Sir  ^\■illianl 
Chambers  is  dated  1791.  In  181 1  Asher  Benjamin  published 
in  Charlcstown.  Mass.,  the  second  edition  of  the  "American 
Builder's  Companion."  which  contains  most  of  the  types  of 
cornices,  mantels,  and  other  details  to  be  seen  about  the 
houses  of  that  date  east  of  the  Connecticut  River. — such  as 
the  Ticknor  house  on  Park  Street,  the  old  r'ranklin  Street 
houses,  and  the  West  Boston  Church  in  Boston, — and  about 


the  same  date,  on  the  other  side  of  the  water,  Thomas  Hope 
published  a  series  of  beautiful  drawings  of  furniture,  inspired 
l)y  the  discoveries  at  Spalatro  and  at  .\thens,  and  made 
familiar  to  us  by  the  I'rencli  furniture  of  the  First  Empire. 
Thus  Hope  foreshadowed  the  Greek  and  Roman  revivals 
with  which  we  are  familiar. 

These  books,  which  are  probably  but  examples  of  a  larger 
number,  indicate  how  our  forefathers  obtained  their  knowl- 
edge. They  are  filled  with  designs  of  doors  and  windows, 
cliimneypieces.  buffets,  monuments,  clock-cases,  bustos, 
girandoles,  tables,  and  chairs.  Often  the  plates  are  very 
fine,  but  they   r.'irely   suggest  the  extreme  delicacy  and   fine- 


ness  of  moulding  so  characteristic  of  the  real  work.  Curi- 
ously enough,  however,  though  ramped  rails  and  turned  or 
carved  balusters  occur  in  these  books,  I  have  not  seen  one 
print  of  a  twisted  baluster  such  as  were  well-nigh  universal  in 
all  houses  of  importance  with  us  at  that  time.  This  is  not 
because  they  were  peculiar  to  this  country  ;  indeed,  I  have 
supposed  ours  generally  were  carved  in  England,  and  I  well 
remember  almost  identical  patterns  in  London.  It  is  strange 
that  they  do  not  appear  in  the  plates,  considering  that  they 
were  the  most  conspicuous  ornament  in  American  work  of 
that  time. 

Almost  all  the  designing  to  be  seen  in  these  volumes  is 
founded  on  a  study  of  the  orders,  which  is  held  throughout 
as  almost  synonymous  with  the  study  of  architecture.  Mr. 
B.  Langley  thus  urges  this  fact  on  his  hearers: — 

"  'Tis  a  Matter  of  very  great  Surprise  to  me,  how  any 
person  dare  presume  to  discourage  others  from  the  Study 
thereof,  and  thereby  render  them  very  often  less  serviceable 
to  the  Publick  than  so  many  Brutes.  But  to  prevent  this 
Infection  from  diffusing  its  poisonous  EfHuvia's  any  further,"- 
he.  in  short,  peremptorily  admonislies  his  readers  to  under- 
stand the  five  orders  of  columns,  whose  general  proportions 
will  not  escape  their  memories  "after  having  practised  them 
about  half  a  Dozen  Times." 

The  orders  are  objects  of  serious  study  still  throughout 
the  civilized  world,  and  more  now  in  this  countrv  than  for 
long  past.  There  is  no  reason  to  fear  the  poisonous  effluvia 
that  Mr.  Langley  deplored  in  his  day.  The  prospective 
house-owner  may  safely  hope  for  a  house  in  a  classic  style, 
;ind,  if  he  wants  it  homelike  also,  he  can  find  no  better  field 
for  suggestions  fitted  to  our  tisages  than  among  the  Georgian 
mansions  of  Xew  England.  Robert  S.  Peabody. 


Georgian  Door-heads  in  London. 


Fig. 


Cheyne  Row,  Chelbca.  S.  \V. 


THK  Londiin  door-lieads  illustrated  in  this  paper  arc 
typical  of  seventeenth  and  eigliteentli  century  work 
and  are  probahly  chieflv  interesting  as  regarded 
comparatively,  .".nd  as  evidence  of  the  spirit  of  tlie 
times  which  produced  them.  .Additional  importance  however 
is  found  in  the  fact  that  these  examples  of  ancient  work 
become  year  by  year  scarcer,  disappearing  for  the  most  part 
into  the  yard  of  the  indiscriminating  house-breaker,  and  but 
rarely  preserved  in  appreciation  of  merit.  .\s  architectural 
features  belonging  to  a  time  singularly  barren  as  regards 
London  exteriors,  they  possess  a  significince  generically, 
which,  developed  to  however  extreme  degree  in  modern 
architecture,  is  am])le  in  itself.  Of  late  years,  when  nothing 
is  so  characteristic  of  moilern  architecture  as  freedom  from 
traditional  restraint,  nor  anything  so  notable  as  the  evidences 
of  loving  study  and  admiration  of  the  time-spirit  moving  in 
the  sixteenth  and  seventeenth  centuries,  it  would  i)rol);ibly 
be  interesting  to  note  the  play  of  fancy  given  to  the  repro- 
duction of  this  feature — the  doorway.  It  is  indeed  interest- 
ing, but  there  is  one  restriction  which  breaks  the  entirety  of 
the  develoi)ment — the  present  building-regulation,  which 
now  forbids  the  erection  of  such  a  feature  in  wood.  The 
restriction  has  been  met  in  many  ways, — by  the  empbjyment 
of  carved  brick,  stone,  stucco  and,  ni  ire  recently  and  with 
considerable  success,  terra-cotta.  Wood,  however,  is  a  ma- 
terial with  characteristic  limitations  and  ])eculiarities  en- 
tirely foreign  to  all  these  substitutes;  so  the  door-liead  as 
here  illustrated  has.  so  far  as  I.ondm  is  concerned,  come  to 
be  a  relic  of  the  past,  not  to  be  reproduced,  save  to  tlie 
arbitrary  satisfaction  of  the  District  Surveyors.  .\t  any  rate. 
work  of  this  nature  is  never  carried  out  in  London  now. 
It  is  curious  to  note  that  in  London  domestic  work  of  the 


jjcriud  under  discussion,  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth 
centuries,  practically  the  whole  of  the  external  decorative 
work  was  concentrated  in  the  doorway  and  its  approach,  the 
iron-railed  threshold.  Walling,  windows,  and  for  the  most 
part  tlie  area  railings,  were  plain  and  simple  in  the  extreme. 
Only  the  actual  doorway  and  the  threshold  railings,  the  iron 
lamp  brackets  and  link-extinguisher  were  wrought  with  some 
generosity  of  spirit.  The  magnification  of  the  entry  has  of 
course  a  prime  importance  architecturally:  and  into  this 
perception  the  si.xteenth  and  seventeenth  century  builders 
entered  fully. 

There  are  still  remaining  in  the  older  parts  of  London, 
streets  and  courts  with  door-heads  in  profusion,  but  for  the 
most  part  examples  occur  in  partial  solitude,  where  chance 
combination  of  circumstance  has  permitted  of  preservation. 
I'articularlv  in  mind  at  this  moment  are  the  districts  of  the 
.\delphi.  Westminster,  Piloomsbury.  Chelsea,  and  the  lanes 
.-md  streets  neighboring  the  various  Inns  of  Court.  Dept- 
ford.  too,  south  of 
the  Thames,  for 
centuries  impor- 
tant as  a  shipping 
and  ship-building 
centre,  is  rich  in 
door-heads :  when 
we  remeinber  that 
this  was  the  Eng- 
lish home  of  Grin- 
ling  (iibbons.  the 
111  a  s  t  e  r  w  o  o  d  - 
carver  of  F.nglisli 
Renaissance,  it  is 
easy  to  conceive 
that  a  genius  that 
stamped  itself  in 
every  cut  of  the 
tool  would  be  an 
influence  spread- 
ing from  wliatever 
centres  containeil 
liis  most  notable 
work.  In  tlie  City 
and  East  End  ex- 
;iniples  are  not  wanting  where,  a  century  ago,  the  merchant 
lived  with  his  work  and  had  not  been  steani-taughl  to  sleep 
ten,  twenty — fifty  miles  from  his  ledger. 

To  consider  the  sketches  here  shown  :  those  from  liucking- 
ham  .Street,  .\delphi  (I'igs.  3  and  5),  from  their  siniil.-irities 
somewhat  naturally   fall  together.     Features,  as  thev  are,  of 


HiR.  2.     Ilnckinjjhani  Street,  Aiielphi,  \V.  C 


88 


TlIK   (;iC()RC;i.\.\   PERIOD. 


11    -•    •-n,'/V/'|,iJ- 
Fig.  3,     Buckingham  Street,  Adelphi,  W.  C. 


Fig.  4.    Great  Ormond  Street,  Biuomsbury,  \V.  C. 


}r^lOtrf  "^ 


Bj/lKW"*^'.' 


Fig.  S.    Buckingham  S  reet,  Adelphi,  W.  C. 


Fig.  6.     Great  Ormond  Screet,  Bloomsbury,  W.  C. 


GEORGIA  X  DOOR'HEADS   IN   LUX  DON. 


89 


houses  of  equal  date,  of  one  building-scheme,  they  have  so 
much  in  common  as  to  lead  to  the  belief,  on  external  evidence, 
that  they  are  the  work  of  one  mind.  Buckingham  Street  was 
formed,  according  to  Pepys's  'Diary."  somewhere  between 
1660  and  1684;  the  old  York  House,  which  occupied  the  site, 
was  then  destroyed  and  residences  named  "York  Buildings" 
erected  on  the  site.  Part  of  these  houses  have  been  rebuilt. 
but  the  original  construction  was  so  recent  that  there  can  be 
little  hesitation  in  deciding  if  the  original  has  or  has  not 
been  preserved :  and  with  regard  to  the  two  houses  from 
which  these  sketches  (Figs.  3  and  5)  are  made,  there  is 
every  reason  to  attach  to  them  as  date  that  of  the  original 
construction.  The  date,  therefore,  of  the  work  in  these 
heads  may  be  stated  to  be  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
It  is  known  that  Wren  was  persona  grata  with  the  second 
Duke  of  Buckingham.  George  Villiers.  who  parcelled  out  the 
York  House  estate  and  sold  it  in  building-plots  for  these 
houses,  and  it  is  noways  improbable  that  the  building-scheme 


sideration  in  the  design.  As  shelter  against  any  but  almost 
perpendicular  rain  or  sun  even  Figure  3  would  be  of  but 
slight  practical  service,  while  Figure  5  would  afford  practically 
no  protection  at  all.  At  any  rate,  the  suggestion  presents 
itself  that  the  occurrence  of  these  two  doorways,  coeval,  so 
differently  principled,  prohibits  adhesion,  so  far  as  the  seven- 
teenth century  is  concerned,  to  any  theory  which  would  seek 
to  date  these  features  according  as  they  differ  in  treatment 
between  true  weather-fences  or  ornaments  pure  and  simple. 
Quite  as  frequently  as  any  development  of  this  pilastered 
type  of  door-head  occur  examples  w-here  the  head  is  carried 
entirely  on  brackets  or  consoles.  Of  these  Figure  i  furnishes 
a  good  specimen,  including  the  effective  central  concavity. 
Though  examples  are  obtainable  which  possess  a  greater 
measure  of  elaboration,  there  are  not  wanting  in  this  door- 
head  (Fig.  i)  signs  of  thoughtful  and  clever  treatment;  the 
proportions,  as  a  whole,  are  pleasing,  and  there  is  that  suc- 
cessful grappling  with  the  difficulties  of  a  combination  of  the 


lngjIPPiiaN 


rig.  7.    Great  Ormond  Street.  Bloomsbury  W.  C. 


,rtiiii»iif/«'«'*' 


Fig.  8.    (Juecn  .\nne"s  Gate.  Westminster.  S.  \V. 


was  placed,  in  whole  or  in  part,  in  \\  reus  hands.  \\'itli)ut 
attempting  to  state  definitely  therefore  whose  ham!  iiro- 
duced  these  doorways,  there  is  at  least  a  basis  to  the  pre- 
sumption that  we  have  in  them  a  relic  of  the  genius  of  Wren. 
In  themselves  they  are  certainly  pleasing:  and  without  an 
undue  profusion  of  ornament,  or  on  the  other  hand,  anything 
of  the  (shall  we  say?)  forbidding  character  of  many  of  the 
productions  of  the  .Adam  brothers,  they  perform  their  func- 
tion with  unobtrusive  grace  anil  dignity. 

To  speak  of  Wren  in  work  of  this  stamp  is  to  imply  the 
name  of  (irinling  (iibbons.  for  Wren  never  lost  the  chance  of 
creating  a  beautiful  thing  in  wood  or  stone,  if  by  placing  the 
work  with  Griiiling  Gibbons  he  could  secure  it.  So  when  all 
is  said  and  done,  it  is  to  Gibbons  and  his  followers,  from 
Timbs  onwards,  that  we  owe  all  that  is  best  in  carving  of  the 
times  we  are  discussing.  These  exaiuples  (iMgs.  3  and  5). 
contemporaneous  as  they  certainly  are,  go  to  show  that  even 
in  the  seventeenth  centurv  utilitarianism  was  l)ut  a  small  con- 


arc  and  the  right  line  wliicli  is  not  always  typical  of  tiie  work 
of  the  eighteenth  century  as  a  whole,  ['"igure  g.  taken,  like 
b'igure  1.  from  Cheyne  Row.  Chelsea.  S.  \\'..  is  probably  later; 
there  is  a  note  of  stint  in  the  cornice  and  a  barrenness  of 
spirit  in  tlie  ril)becl  arcliitrave  that  is  altogether  out  of  keep- 
ing with  the  elal)oration  of  the  consoles.  We  can  imagine 
that,  iiowever  greatly  the  designer  may  have  appreciated  the 
individual  good  points  (jf  designs  to  wliicli  he  may  have  Iiad 
access,  his  forte  was  not  synthesis. 

The  examples  shown  in  I'igures  7  and  8  have  little  in 
common,  save  pcrbajjs  the  degree  of  their  elaboration  of 
ornament  Tiie  d.ite  of  Xo.  7  is.  in  all  probability,  the  early 
eighteenth  century:  the  flat  pilasters  and  Ionic  half  caps,  the 
curiously  heavy  composition  of  the  consoles,  the  break  in 
the  frieze  and.  most  of  all.  the  deep  carved  moulding  around 
the  doorwav.  all  tend  tf)  place  this  work  in  that  time.  Figure  8 
is  prol>;iblv  a  little  later,  say  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century. 
Flaboration     is    here    carried     to     a    degree     almost     final: 


qo 


THI-:   GEORGJAN   PERIOD. 


Classicism    are    both    alike    sacrificed    t(i    tin 


the    pilasters    carry    nothing   and    the    cornice    loses 


construction    and 
character. 

In  the  example  shown  in  Figure  ii.  where  two  doors  are  grouped  in  one  design,  there  is  room  for  much  admiration 
and  some  speculation.  In  point  of  date  the  doors  show  much  of  the  spirit  of  the  time  of  \\'ren  :  there  is  in  the  combina- 
tion, however,  a   freedom   from  classic   f<irm  and  tradition  tli;it   suggests  an   affinity  to  the  days  of  one  hundred  vcars  ago. 

Pilasters  are  replaced  by 

long    shallow    panels, 

caps    are    swallowed    up 

hv     the     consoles,     small 

pilasters    are    introduced 

at  the  door-frame  to  sup- 

])ort  a  fanlight  suggestive 

of   Chip])endale,   and   the 

masks    in    the    centre    of 

each     doorwav     b.'ar     an 

a  s  p  e  c  t    of    modernity 

.\evertheless    the    d.sign 

is   striking,   and,   m';dern 

or  not,  the  conce])tion  is 

of  one  to  whom   \\"ren's 

was  a  master  mind. 
I-'igure  4.  on  page  XS, 
represents  a  doorway  later  in  date  than  the  Adam  period,  but  probably  prior  to  the  last  example.  The  type  is  of 
common  occurrence,  and  if  there  can  be  ascribed  to  the  designer  no  great  originality  of  idea,  yet  the  spirit  of  the  late  eigh- 
teenth century  is  well  expressed  in  the  stricter  Classicism  and  the  more  traditional  pro])ortions.  A  noteworthy  point  is  the 
substitution  of  pillars  for  pilasters.  There  is  not  the  dainty  economy  of  the  .\dam  period,  but  a  stolider,  less  susceptible 
sense.  In  useful  comparison  comes  Figure  2,  a  typical  work  of  the  .\dam  brothers,  for  the  evidence  is  here  happily 
complete.  Classicism  more 
of  it,  or  perhaps  because  of 
repose     befitting     the     time 


Jhf$J  iU 


FlK.  9,    Cheyne  Row,  Chelsea,  S  W. 


Fi;:.  10.    Great  College  Street   Westminster.  S.  W. 


against  the  abandonment 
embellisher's  o|)portunity : 
c  raving  for  simplicity — 
the  general  over-elaboration 

I'igure  10  is  probably  not 
consoles  in  fact  appear  so 
remainder  of  the  work 
that  the  more  simple  f>ver~ 
originally    contemporaneous 

Figure  6  also  is  modern, 
example  bears  date  1S24, 
of  modernity.  .\djoining. 
doorways  shown  in  Figure  4, 
think  that  j'igure  6  is  con- 
lUit.  on  the  other  hand,  tliis 
account  for  an  eighteenth - 
teenth-century  doorwav,  and 
of  develo])ment.  of  ba\ing 
us  to  regard  the  whole  corn- 
evidence,  would  1824  ajjpear 
attach  to  the  origin  of  this 

'P  b  e  s  e  examples,  then. 
hazard,  illustrate  in  a  pre- 
swing  of  the  pendulum  from 
restraint  to  elaboration, 
and  eighteenth  centuries,  np 
.\'o    doubt,    given    time    and 


HilH.'RBiCC.ifcm,iiitj»J,i 


Fir.  1 1.    Queen's  Square,  W.  C. 


severe  is  unlikely,  vet  in  spite 
it,  we  have  a  dignity  and 
which  in  a  sense  protested 
of  Classic  for  m  s  to  the 
it  was  the  outcome  of  a 
product  of  the  nausea  of 
and  license. 

a  complete  composition :  the 
entirely  foreign  to  the 
as  to  lead  to  the  supposition 
door  they  support  was  not 
with  them. 

.Apart  from  the  fact  that  the 
there  are  essential  evidences 
as  it  does,  a  number  of  the 
there  is  superficial  reason  to 
t^'m])oraneous  with  the  rest. 
\ery  adjacency  is  enough  to 
century  spirit  in  a  nine- 
there  is  a  frank  appearance 
"gone  one  better"  that  leads 
position  as  late:  nor.  on  the 
to  be  a  date  unsuitable  to 
interesting  doorwav. 
chosen  more  or  less  at 
liminary  manner  the  steady 
freedom  to  severity,  from 
throughout  the  seventeenth 
to    the    nineteenth    centurv. 


opportunity   for  research,  a 

similar  course  of  development  would  be  traceable  in  the  whole  of  the  architecture  of  the  periods  under  consideration.  At 
any  rate  it  may  l)e  said,  without  ignoring  the  splendid  works  on  the  history  of  the  English  Renaissance  already  extant, 
that  when  the  history  of  the  architectural  detail  of  the  past  three  centuries  comes  to  be  written,  sympathetically  and  from  an 
impartial  point  of  view,  there  \\  ill  be  fields  for  analytical  criticism  .-md  conjecture  as  wide  and  rich,  it  mav  be.  as  ever  were 
explored  by  the  recorders  of  Classic  and  ]\ledia;val  architecture.  Owen  I'le.mixg,  A.R.I.B.A. 


The  Architecture  of  the  Eighteenth  Century  in  England, 


ARCHITECTURE  has  its  ironies,  like  any  other 
field  of  human  experience — not  bitter  ironies,  no 
grim  disappointments,  no  cruelties  wrapped  in 
mockery,  but  only  mild,  and  sometimes  gracious, 
developments  of  the  wliolly  unexpected;  proofs,  if  proof 
were  needed,  that  man  is  no  more  master  of  his  fate  in  archi- 
tecture than  in  anything  else. 
In  fact,  these  manifestations 
show  that  architecture  is  a 
bigger  force  than  man,  its 
creator,  and  that  his  little 
will,  for  all  its  pride  of 
power,  is  only,  at  its  moments 
of  apparent  production,  giv- 
ing a  bend  here  and  there  to 
the  course  of  a  resistless 
river.  Sometimes,  indeed, 
one  learns  the  lesson  that  the 
greatest  architect  is  he  who 
helps,  not  hinders,  the  stream. 
The  great  men  are  not  the 
men  of  novelty,  still  less  are 
they  the  men  of  archasologv. 
.\  dash  for  originalitv  fre- 
rpicntly  ends  in  the  |)rodnc- 
tion  of  ;in  unwholesome 
eddy  :  conversely,  an  effort  at 
conservatism  leads  too  often 
to  the  formation  of  a  stag- 
nant backwater. 


■lWi*.«*>' 


Fig.  I 


.\  Halu^ler  Sun-hal,  .Su^^ex. 


Sir  Christopher  \\  ren.  whom  we  may  look  u])f)n.  in  a  sensr. 
as  the  father  of  English  eighteenth-centurv  architecture,  was 
fully  aware  of  these  truths,  and  he  at  least  was  a  man  who 
had  every  excuse  for  viewing  the  case  otherwise.  His  educa- 
tion, to  begin  with,  was  not  architectural:  his  beginnings  of 
professional  life  were  in  spheres  scientific  rather  than  artistic. 
He  was  tied  by  no  traditions,  and  fettered  bv  'no  scholastic 
or  acadenu'c  chains.  He  slip])e(l  into  architecture  over  the 
wall,  so  to  speak,  like  I-'ormalist  and  llypocrisv  in  the 
"Pilgrim's  I'rityrcss."  .\nd  if.  wlien  he  thus  came  into  archi- 
tecture from  the  outside,  with  his  open  mind  and  vigorous 
intellect,  he  had  felt  that  the  right  way  to  go  to  work  was  to 
start  fair,  free  of  prejudice,  free  of  tradition,  free  even  of  the 
spirit  of  his  own  age,  would  he  not  have  been  the  very  man 
to  show  the  courage  of  his  convictions,  and  to  embark  on  the 
adventurous  career  of  a  new  architecture?  Certainly  he 
would:  but  what  do  we  find?  Instead  of  a  gospel  of  freedom 
and  individualism,  he  wrote  these  remarkable  words: — 

"It  is  necessary  for  the  architect  in  a  conspicuous  work 


to  preserve  his  undertaking  from  general  censure,  and  so  for 
him  to  accommodate  his  designs  to  the  Geist  of  the  age  he 
lives  in.  though  it  appear  to  him  less  rational." 

Strange  words,  which  show  the  relation  of  an  original  mind 
to  the  force  of  contemporary  taste.  Nor  can  it  be  doubted 
that  Wren's  obedience  to  tlie  commands  of  tradition  was  at 
least  as  strong  as  his  subjection  to  the  spirit  of  the  age. 

Xow,  the  planting  in  the  New  World  of  the  civilization  of 
the  Old.  which  took  place  gradually  during  the  seventeenth 
and  eighteenth  centuries,  was  an  opportunity  such  as  man's 
history  has  seldom  known  for  the  establishment  of  a  new 
creation  in  architecture.  Here  was  a  chance  for  the  men 
who  sav  that  the  vitality  of  architecture  should  be  proved  by 
its  independence  of  archaeology  and  tradition.  So  long  as  a 
nation  remains  in  its  own  country,  and  retains  its  accustomed 
civilization,  so  long,  they  mi.ght  say.  there  is  a  certain  excuse 
—  if  not  a  valid 
reason  —  for  the 
retention  of  ap- 
parently meaning- 
less traditions  of 
form. 

I'lUt  here  was  a 
new  state  of  con- 
ditions altogether. 
.\  nation  —  or 
rather  a  selection 
from  v  a  r  i  o  u  s 
n  a  t  i  o  n  s.  full  of 
vigorous  enter- 
jirise.  and  there- 
fore presumably 
full  of  the  power 
of  origination  and 
of  artistic  vitalitw 
has  transferred  it- 
self to  a  new  soil, 
where  it  is  to  live 
u  n  d  e  r  new  cli- 
matic environ- 
nient,  and  even,  to 
a  certain  exteiU. 
under  fresh  con- 
ditions of  state 
and    society.      The 

apostles  of  the  independence  of  architecture  might  reason- 
ablv  look  for  a  new  style  under  these  new  conditions.  Hut 
what  is  the  actual  result  in  history?  Truly  a  wonderful 
event — a    strange    and    delightful    testimony    to    man's    hold 


Fig.  2.     Nunihcr  <)  (irosvenor  Roa'l.  London. 


92 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


on  the  past,  or  shall  wo  rather  say,  to  architecture's  hold  points  so  emancipated  from  the  exigencies  of  mere  construc- 
upon  an  almost  unsuspected  part  of  human  nature.  The  tioual  fabric  as  to  give  special  play  to  the  exhibition  of  the 
architecture  of  the  Xew  World  was  evidently  to  be  not  merely      whims,  or,  to  speak  more  truly,  of  the  spirit  of  their  designer. 


a  continuance  of  European  tra- 
dition, but.  a  greater  marvel 
still,  it  was  to  echo  in  a  kind  of 
tertiary  Renaissance  the  Classi- 
cal culture  which  Northern 
Eurojje  had  borrowed  from 
Italy  and  Italy  had  revived 
from  her  dead  Roman  self.  Is 
this  a  proof  of  the  strength  of 
old  Rome,  clamoring  in  its 
grave  for  a  share  in  the  new 
territory,  or  is  it  rather  a  sign 
that  man,  for  all  his  radicalism 
and  commercialism  and  "mod- 
ern-side" education,  has  in 
him,  whetlier  he  like  it  or  not, 
whether  he  know  it  or  not,  a 
latent  fibre  that  must  be  fed 
from  the  ancient  culture  of  the 
past?     I  think  it  is  the  latter. 

I  am  far  from  suggesting 
that  the  architecture  of  the 
eighteenth  century  which  flour- 
ished in  the  British  and  Dutch 
homes  of  the  American  immi- 
grants is  in  an}-  large  degree 
identical  with  the  work  of 
Rome,  or  even  with  that  of 
fifteenth-century  Italy:  in- 
deed, if  it  were,  it  would  give 
the    lie    to    the    undeniable    law 


Fig.  3,    Doorway,  West  Wycomlje,  Bucks,  1722. 


Such  points  in  a  Gothic  eccle- 
siastical building  are  shrines 
and  tabernacles,  sedilia  and 
font-covers,  stalls,  screens 
and  portals:  in  the  Georgian 
home  these  play-grounds  of 
free  art  are  found  in  the  cor- 
nices, chimneypieces,  porches 
and  similar  accessories.  Per- 
haps the  front  door  and  the 
mantel,  with  some  special  fit- 
ness in  each  case,  are  the  chief 
means  of  this  expression. 
Rightly  are  they  the  bearers  of 
a  special  message,  being,  as  it 
were,  the  symbols,  or,  rather, 
the  very  instruments,  respect- 
ively, of  outward  and  inward 
welcome. 

The  examples  here  brought 
together  as  illustrations  are  a 
mere  random  handful,  taken 
from  a  rich  profusion  scattered 
all  over  England,  and  meant  to 
show  how  closely  the  things 
which  to-day  are  loved  and 
reverenced  in  the  United  States 
are  allied  to  those  beauties  of 
architecture  which  we  cherish 
as  having  been  enjoyed  in  this 
country    one    hundred    and    two 


that    true    architecture    is    always    affected    by    geographical      hundred  years  ago.     To  be  sure,  they  are  vanishing,  perhaps 

and  ethnological  conditions.  more  rapidly  with  us  than  they  are  with  you,  but  they  linger 

The  Georgian  architecture — I   use   the   word   in  its   widest      yet.  even  in  certain  quiet  streets  of  London,  into  which  one 


the  loosest  sense  —  is  indis- 
putably genuine  architecture,  a 
union,  that  i.s,  of  l>eauty,  .\'e- 
cessitv  and  Tradition,  the  first- 
named  resulting  from  the  other 
two.  As  such  it  is  distinguish- 
able at  a  glance,  like  all  true 
architecture,  both  from  its  fore- 
runners and  fro;n  its  ])Osterities. 
Hut  I  do  hold  —  this  is  my 
point  of  argument  —  that  its 
tradition  of  form,  its  symbolism 
and  its  culture  are  essentially 
and  excellently  Classical. 
Wherever,  in  this  architecture, 
forms  can  legitimately  break 
loose  from  mere  construction, 
wherever  composition  stands 
free  of  mere  necessitudinous 
building,  the  cxijression  towards 
which  it  strains  with  all  the 
force  of  well-tutored  simplicity 
is  the  manifestation  of  the 
Classical.  There  is  here  no 
implication      that      architecture 


Fig.  4,     A  Porch  at  Alton,  Hams 


Steps  as  into  an  atmosphere  of 
antiquity  more  insistent  in  its 
way  than  that  which  pervades 
the  great  cathedrals.  One 
feels  of  a  Westminster  Abbey 
that  it  is  in  a  sense  no  more 
old  than  it  is  new — it  is  of  all 
time.  A  great  church  built  of 
enduring  stone  has  about  it  a 
quality  of  everlastingness, 
which  likens  it  to  the  earth  and 
sky.  of  who.se  antiquity  there 
is  no  more  consciousness  than 
doubt.  But  when,  out  of  some 
crowded  thoroughfare  of  mod- 
ern buildings,  one  branches  into 
a  street  lined  with  the  compara- 
tively frail  homes  of  five  or  six 
generations  ago,  one  feels  an 
overwhelming  sense  of  the 
presence  of  one's  forefathers. 
The  very  fragility  of  these 
slender  pilasters  and  delicate 
mouldings  adds  to  the  marvel 
of  their  continuitv.     Their  sur- 


only    reaches    its    development    when    it   breaks    loose    from  vival  is  like  the  survival  of  a  man.    Besides,  there  is  in  human 

liuilding  as   such — a   doctrine   which   will   sound   hollow   and  nature  a  kind  of  contrariety  which  does  not  honor  antiquity 

untrue  in  the  ears  of  all  truth-lovers,  but  it  is  obvious  that  in  the  direct  ratio  of  years.     The  Pantheon,  even  from  the 

in  all  buildings  of  any  generosity,  in  whatever  style,  there  are  point  of  age,  possesses  a  greater  charm  than  the  Pyramids. 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  OE  THE  EIGHTEEXTH  CEXTURY  IX  EXGLAXD. 


93 


But  I  must  not  write  of  our  eighteenth  century  as  if  its 
architectural  work  were  all  of  the  minor  domestic  type. 
Undoubtedly  there  is  a  great  architectural  importance  in  the 
simpler  domestic  work  of  the  period,  which,  if  it  had  no 
other  claim  upon  the  attention 
of  the  architectural  historian, 
might  well  be  held  up  to  ad- 
miration for  this,  that  it  was  a 
style  which,  in  spite  of  it  orig- 
inal foreign  extraction,  became 
truly  vernacular.  There  sub- 
sisted, in  those  times,  between 
architect  and  workman  an 
understanding,  w  h  i  c  h  can 
hardly  be  said  to  exist  at  the 
present  time.  Partly,  no  doubt, 
owing  to  the  limited  range  of 
design,  and  partly  to  the  com- 
paratively small  field  of  an- 
tiquity open  to  the  pursuit  of 
the  designer,  it  became  possible 
for  workmen  of  intelligence  in 
various  trades — but  especially 
in  those  of  the  joiner  ar.d 
mason — to  have  at  their  fin- 
gers' ends  a  knowledge,  and 
an  accurate  knowledge,  of  th,' 
mouldings  and  features  of 
which  their  architects  were 
making  use.  Nay,  more,  it  is 
the  result  of  this  intimate 
knowledge  on  the  part  of  the 
workman     that     the     humbler 

buildings  of  the  town  and  the  village  (which  were  often,  no 
doubt,  in  those  days,  as  in  our  own,  constructed  without 
the  intervention  of  an  architectural  designer  at  all )  have 
about  them  that  inideniable  stamp  of  correctness  of  design 
which,  whether  you  are  pleased  to  call  it  archneological  or 
not,  residts  in  something  uncommonly  like  a  display  of  good 
taste. 

The  architecture  of  the  period  was  not.  I  was  beginning  to 


looked  upon  as  a  direct  outcome  of  Wren's  accustomed 
manner,  which  in  turn  may  lie  termed  a  consequence  of 
Inigo  Jones.  In  this  work.  too.  in  the  monumental  and 
palace   architecture    as   well    as    in    the    domestic,    the    study 

and  proficiency  of  the  individual 
workman  was  a  large  factor  in 
the  success  of  the  art.  This 
point  has  been  well  brought  out 
in  Mr.  Reginald  Blomfield's 
excellent  work  on  the  Renais- 
sance in  England,  which  affords 
the  best  available  summary 
of  the  architectural  facts  of 
the  century  we  are  discussing. 
One  might  be  tempted  to  say 
that  this  period  of  architecture 
had  two  sides  —  on  the  one 
hand  the  correctness  of  Wren, 
and  on  the  other  a  Dutch  im- 
portation which  gave  character 
to  the  humbler  street  architec- 
ture. But  we  find  that  Wren 
himself,  after  the  accession  of 
William  and  Mary  and  the  con- 
sequent introduction  of  Dutch 
taste,  was  among  the  first  to 
borrow  his  architecture  from 
Holland,  and  may  thus  be  said 
to  be  himself  the  father  of 
both  aspects  of  eighteenth-cen- 
tury British  architecture.  The 
names  of  architects  associated 
with  the  early  Restoration  are 
not  conspicuous,  but  we  might  mention  among  them  such 
workers  as  Bell,  of  King's  T.ynn,  who  executed  various  works 
in  his  own  neighbiirliood.  including  the  well-known  Custom- 
JKiuse  in  his  own  town,  .nid  a   picturesque  church   at   Xorth 


Fig.  5.    Door-Heail.  Hastirgs. 


•IP'^  ^M'  • 

^  ^    ■     -f*^ . 

■mm^^mi- 

1 

1 

FlK.  7.    Chinineypiecc:    lliJltun  House,  Hastint'S,  Sussex. 


Fig.  6.    Cliimneypiecc:  Hiyh  Wycomtx:.  Bucks. 

say,  entirely  of  this  minor  domestic  type.  Side  by  side  witli  Runcton.  dated  1713.  that  may  be  looked  upon  as  a  type  of 
the  simpler  house-buildings  the  century  witnessed  the  those  Georgian  churches  (sometimes  rather  quaint  than  beau- 
development  of  a  greater  Classical  style,  which,  but  for  tiful)  which  the  architects  of  the  Ciothic  Revival  did  their  best 
certain  lapses,  one  might  call  Palladian,  and  which  might  be  to  sweep  from  the  land.     The  great  names  which  succeeded 


94 


THE  GEOKGIAX   PERIOD. 


Wren's   arc.  of   course,   \"anbrugh   and   Hawksmoor,   whose  which  cannot  be  said  to  have  any  true  affinity  with  the  Amer- 

works  I  imagine  have  but  httle  parallel  in  the  architecture  of  ican  "Colonial"  work— but  there  are  still  two  names  among 

America,      {'.inbrugh's    palaces— though    his    rei)Utation    has  the  producers  of  what   I   liave   styled  monumental   architec- 

Mitterod  from  too  ;rcncral  an  application  of  his   well-known  ture   which  deserve   a  passing  mention,  the  names  of  Dean 


Rtr.  8.    Offices  in  High  Street,  Lewes,  Sussex. 

epitaph — must  be  acknowledged  to  be  heavy  buildings.  The 
less-known  example  here  given  (Fig.  16.  Page  97)  is  lighter 
in  character  than  the  more  celebrated  P)lenhcim  and  Castle 
Howard.  Hawksmoor's  genius  is  in  many  ways  more  attrac- 
tive, and  certainly  more  inventive.  His  church  in  Spitalficlds 
— the  spire  of  which  (Plate  39) 
is  of  a  most  unusual  type — 
can  certainly  not  be  objected  to 
on  grounds  of  dull  formality, 
nor  can  the  familiar  front  of 
St.  Mary's  Woolnoth.  near  the 
^[ansion  House,  which  so 
nearly  suffered  destruction  a 
few  years  ago  in  the  interests 
of  railway  traffic. 

Of  all  the  stars  that  had 
power  to  make  their  light  seen 
in  the  wake  of  Wren  there  is, 
perhaps,  none  brighter  than 
James  Gibbs.  It  was  his  culti- 
vated genius  that  made  itself 
known  in  the  Church  of  St. 
Martin,  in  Trafalgar  Square,  in 
the  beautiful  St.  Mary-le  Strand 
(Plates  32-34).  which  blocks 
with  a  gracious  interference  the 
busy  crowd  in  one  of  London's 
densest  thoroughfares,  and  also 
in  the  Radcliffe  Library  (Fig. 
19) — a  circular  building  of 
wholly  unusual  design  which 
occupies  a  quiet  square  in  the 
collegiate  city  of  Oxford. 
Gibbs  had  other  opportunities 
of  conspicuous  work,  notably 
the  Senate  House  at  Cam- 
bridge, but  none  of  his  build- 
ings exceed  in  beauty  and  in  classic  refinement  the  two 
London  churches  or  the  Oxford  Library.  I  have  no  wish  to 
take  the  reader  through  a  list  of  English  eighteenth-centurv 
architects — some  of  the  best-known  names  come  indeed  at 
the   close  of  the  century,  and,   therefore,  belong  to  a   period 


Fist.  10.    House  at  Guildfonl.    (Da'el731.] 


Fig;,  9,    The  Vicarage.  Lewisham. 

Aldrich,  of  Oxford,  and  of  John  Wood,  of  Bath.  The  former 
is  a  brilliant  example  of  the  architectural  amateur.  Holding 
the  Deanery  of  Christ  Church,  which  implies  not  so  much  an 
ecclesiastical  appointment  as  the  mastership  of  the  College 
of  that  name,  Aldrich  may  be  supposed  to  have  had  occupa- 
tions enough  to  leave  little  time 
for  artistic  hobbies.  But  he 
was  a  man  of  unusual  versatil- 
it\' — not  only  was  he  a  good 
classic  scholar,  he  was  also  a 
logician,  and  wrote  a  treatise 
on  logic  which  remained  for 
many  generations  of  students 
the  standard  text-book.  He 
was  no  inconsiderable  musician ; 
there  is  at  least  one  psalm- 
chant  and  more  than  one  an- 
them due  to  his  skill  as  a  com- 
poser, and  with  all  these  many 
fields  of  energy  he  still  found 
time  to  handle  architecture 
also,  both  from  a  theoretical 
and  practical  standpoint.  His 
"E  I  c  111  ruts  of  Architecture" 
written  in  imitation  of  Vitru- 
vius.  and  written  in  Latin,  too, 
is.  to  be  sure,  pretty  nearly 
forgotten  —  being  rather  ele- 
gant than  useful :  but  his  build- 
ings, chief  of  which  is  the 
Church  of  all  Saints,  in  High 
Street,  remain  as  enduring  me- 
morials of  his  academic  power 
in  an  art  which  but  few  ama- 
teurs have  successfully  invaded. 
It  is  not  known  to  what  extent 
Dean  .Mdrich  had  professional 
aid  in  the  working  out  of  his  designs,  but  no  architect's  name 
has  ever  been  connected  with  them  and  no  tradition  has 
ever  assailed  his  claim  to  at  least  the  leading  share  in  the 
buildings  with  which  his  name  is  associated.  I  am  glad  to 
remind  .\mericans  of  Dean  .Mdrich's  claims. 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  OF  THE  EIGHTEEXTH  CENTURY  L\  EXGLAXD. 


95 


John  Wood  was  an  artist  before  whom  exceptional  opjjor-  magnificence  and,  for  that  matter,  so  good  a  piece  of  art, 
tunities  were  spread.  It  is  not  at  all  clear  where  he  learned  that  I  have  no  mind  to  leave  it  out  of  this  collection.  The 
his  architecture,  and  he  appears  to  have  started  lite  as  a  .Vorthampton  Church,  on  the  other  hand,  is,  I  think,  Stuart 
road-surveyor  in  1727.  But  he  found  himself  in  Bath  at  the  rather  than  Georgian,  but  it  is  a  rich  and  characteristic  speci- 
time  when  Bath  was  waking  up  to  the  possibility  of  getting  men  of  the  way  in  which  the  architects  of  the  English  Re- 
itself  rebuilt,  and 
under  the  patron- 
age of  Ralph  Al- 
len, an  enterprising 
owner  of  property 
and,  which  is  more 
important,  an 
owner  of  quarries, 
he  was  enabled  to 
put  an  entirely  new 
aspect  upon  an  old 
town.  The  most 
conspicuous  of  his 
works  was  Prior 
Park,  a  magnificent 
residence,  with  a 
hexastyle  C  o  r  i  n  - 
thian  portico,  out- 
side the  town ;  but 
his  genius  was  more 
exhaustively  taxed 
in  the  schemes  for 
laying  out  streets 
and  s(|uares  in  the 
city  itself.  In  this 
work  Wood  (who 
was    practically    the 

pioneer  in  England  of  combined  composition  in  street  archi- 
tecture) exhibited  the  most  fertile  ingenuity.  His  squares, 
his  terraces,  his  crescents  and  his  circular  colonnades  arc 
masterpieces  in  their  way  and  evince  a  brilliant  talent  in 
the    exceptional    art 


Fig.  II.     A  House  in  the  Clo^e,  Salisbury 


of  architecture  on 
a  c  o  m  p  r  e  h  ensive 
scale. 

But  it  is  time  to 
leave  the  considera- 
tion of  the  monu- 
mental art  of  the 
century  and  to  look 
to  those  similar 
buildings  which  in 
their,  often  name- 
less, obscurity  may 
really  be  said  to 
form  the  backbone 
of  English  eigh- 
teenth-centurv  ar- 
chitecture. In  pass- 
ing on  to  them,  let 
me  merely  mention 
two  examples  of 
which  illustrations 
are  here  given. 
One  is  the  colon- 
nade, or  entrance  screen,  at  Syon  House  on  the  Tlianies 
(Plate  15),  and  the  other  the  Church  of  .Ml  .SaiiUs  at  North- 
ampton (Plate  15),  The  colonnade  is.  strictly  speaking,  too 
late  for  our  period,  belonging,  as  1  suppose,  to  the  time,  if 
not  to  the  actual  handiwork,  of  llu-  Brothers  Adam,  but  it  is 
SO   elegant    an    example    of    the    ctntury's    idea    of    domestic 


FIr.  12.    Sciiool-lionse.  Cranbrodk,  Kent. 


naissance  laid  Clas- 
sic hands  on  the 
hitherto  Gothic  do- 
main of  the  church. 
I  wish  in  this  con- 
nection that  I  had 
an  illustration  to 
offer  of  the  small 
and  interesting 
church  of  Little 
S  t  a  n  m  o  r  e  ,  near 
Edgware.  It  has 
an  ancient  Gothic 
tower,  but  the  entire 
nave  and  chancel, 
within  and  without, 
are  of  the  strictest 
Georgian  Classic. 
Tradition,  perhaps 
falsely  connects  the 
church  and  its  organ 
with  Handel,  and 
the  churchyard  con- 
tains the  grave  of 
the  supposed  imper- 
sonation of  Han- 
del's "Harmonious 
Bl;icUsniith";  but  be  the  tradition  true  or  false,  the  church 
in  its  design  is  a  near  counterpart  in  architecture  of 
that  academic  spirit  which  prevails  in  Handelian  church 
nuisic. 

Midway  between 
the  mo  n  u  m  e  n  t  a  1 
buildings  of  the 
eighteenth  centur\- 
(the  churches  and 
mansions)  and  the 
humbler  domestic 
architecture  stand 
the  town-halls  of 
small  market  cen- 
tres and  the  nndti- 
t  u  d  i  no  u  s  alms- 
houses. The  town- 
halls  are  very  char- 
acteristic and  often 
v  e  r  y  b  ea  u  t  i  f  u  1 
examples  of  tiie 
c  e  n  t  u  r  v  '  s  work. 
Among  the  best  of 
them  is  that  at 
Abingdon  (Plate 
19),  near  O.xford, 
;ui  out-of-the-way 
building  wliicli  is 
sometimes  :iscril)ed  to  no  less  an  author  than  \'anl)rugh. 
It  is  extremely  graceful,  and  its  air  of  rather  excessive 
correctness  and  propriety  gives  it  just  that  seal  of  distinc- 
lion  whicli  should  differentiate  the  home  of  the  commnnily 
from  tlie  homes  of  its  component  individuals.  Its  cor- 
rectness   is     icnipered,     oddlv    enough,    by    a     very    unusual 


96 


THE   GEORuIAX  PERIOD. 


departure  from  Classic  rule.  On  each  of  its  sides  the  centre 
is  occupied  by  a  "solid."  not  by  a  "void" — whereas  the 
laws  of  composition  call  for  an  arch  in  the  centre — never 
a  pier.  The  Council  Chamber  at  Chichester  (Plate  19)  has 
the  same  air  of  solemnity  without  the  same  grace.  It  seems 
hardlv  able  to  accomplish  its 
own  Palladian  intentions,  and 
the  gruesome  lion  which  sur- 
mounts its  top  gives  a  bathos 
to  the  composition  which  one 
would  not  expect.  The  century 
is  bv  no  means  weak  in  carv- 
ing, least  of  all  in  heraldic 
carving :  the  stone  unicorn 
(Plate  17)  from  the  Carlisle 
Parade,  Hastings,  and  the  two 
examples  of  Royal  .\rms  from 
Cranbrook  and  South  Molton 
(Plate  17)  are  quite  enough 
to  prove  that  the  sculptors  of 
the  Georgian  period  were  real 
masters  of  a  conventional 
school  of  animal  carving  which  has  seldom  been  surpassed. 
The  same  excellent  power  is  displayed  in  the  cartouche 
(Plate  17)  from  the  South  Molton  town-hall  (Plate  19), 
doubtless  an  effort  by  the  same  hand  that  carved  the  Royal 
Arms.     The  town-hall  itself  is  a  good  specimen  of  its  kind 


Fig.  13.    Ncwby  Hall,  Yorks.    By  Campbell.    [Date,  1720.] 


High  Wycombe  (Plate  20),  if  simple  in  its  upper  story,  is 
more  ambitious  in  its  arcade,  which  shows  a  clever  arrange- 
ment in  the  grouping  of  the  columns,  whereby  the  additional 
stability  required  at  the  angles  is  obtained  without  solid 
piers.    The  roof-lantern  here  is  especially  graceful,  and  I  am 

glad  to  be  able  to  give  a  photo- 
graph of  it  in  detail  (Fig.  20). 
The  town-halls  here  exempli- 
fied arc  but  a  few  examples 
out  of  a  great  profusion  of 
such  buildings  that  are  to  be 
found  in  county  towns  all  over 
the  country.  Not  less  numer- 
ous and  not  less  interesting 
are  the  almshouses,  of  which 
in  some  towns  several  ex- 
amples are  to  be  found.  Salis- 
bury, for  instance,  has  three 
or  four,  and  many  other  places 
can  show  tw'o  or  more.  The 
College  of  Matrons  (Plate  23), 
just  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Cathedral-close  at  Salisbury  is,  at  least  outwardly,  a  building 
typical  of  its  class — so  also,  in  a  less  ambitious  vein,  is  the 
Banks  Almshouse,  at  Maidstone  (Fig.  21),  which  dates  from 
1700.  The  little  lantern  (Fig.  18),  bearing  date  1707,  is 
from    a    similar    building — Christ's    Hospital — at    Abingdon, 


J| 

1 

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i 

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mm 

ww\ 

^^^^H 

■ 

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^I^I^^Kii  %' ' 

p 

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1 

W^^^m.  * 

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Fig.  14.    House  at  Brentford,  Middlesex. 


Fig.  15.    House  at  Alton,  Hants. 


— a  typical  faqade  with  a  main  story  of  Corinthian  pilasters  and  the  courtyard  view  of  the  Tomkins  .Mmshouses  (Fig. 
standing  on  a  basement  formed  of  the  inevitable  town-hall  22)  shows  a  rather  later  building  in  the  same  town, 
arcade.  The  pilasters  and  their  entablature  are  surmounted  The  coaching-inns  of  the  towns  on  the  old  highroads  are 
by  a  good  pediment,  and  above  the  roof  is  an  attractive  clock-  'often  of  very  good  architecture,  but  few  of  them  are  so 
turret  with  a  weather-cock.  The  Rye  town-hall  (Plate  19)  ambitious  as  the  well-known  "White  Hart"  at  Salisburv. 
is  an  example  of  a  rather  sim])ler  treatment,  and  so  is  the  T  am  fortunately  able,  owing  to  the  industry  of  Mr.  Gals- 
well-proportioned  building  at   Witney    (Plate   21).     Tliat   at  worthy  Davie,  whose  wandering  camera  seems  never  to  let  a 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  OF  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY  IN  ENGLAND. 


97 


good  thing  pass,  to  give  many  examples  of  ordinary  street 
domestic  and  shop  architecture.  It  would,  I  think,  be  unde- 
sirable and  unprofitable  for  me  to  attempt  to  allude  in  writ- 
ing to  each  of  these  illustrations.  They  tell  for  themselves 
their  own  tale  of  quiet  beauty,  and  bear  an  eloquent  testi- 


would  enter  this  rural  parlor,  no  doubt,  from  a  green  lawn  in 
a  walled  orchard — and  making  your  way  to  the  window-seat 
would  find  yourself  looking  out  onto  the  bustling  little  street. 
It  is  this  happy  combination  of  business  and  seclusion,  of 
town  and  country,  of  garden  life  and  street  life,  which  is  the 


mony  to  the  age  of  cultured  gentility  which  they  reiiresent. 
We  may  have  surpassed  our  forefathers  in  some  qualities  of 
mind  and  intellect,  but  there  is,  to  take  a  single  example. 
a  spirit  of  gentlemanly  confidence  about  the  really  hand- 
some Lewes  shop-front  '  (Fig.  8)  which,  to  my  mind,  entices 
customers  quite  as  readily  as  plate-glass  and  stanchions  can 


key  to  th('  amenity  of  Georgian  existence.  Folk  realized  in 
those  da3's  that  it  was  alike  a  great  convenience  to  live  in  a 
street,  and  a  great  hardship  to  live  without  a  garden — with 
the  result  that  their  front  doors  were  placed  on  the  pavement 
and  their  back  doors  were  practically  in  the  country.  The 
town  nf  Lewes  is  laid  nut  entirely  on  this  principle,  and  the 


Fiu.  17.    Hampton  Court  Palace.    Sir  Christopher  Wren,  Architect. 


d(j.  The  bay-window  .it  Rye  (  I'ig.  2^)  is  to  me  a  particu- 
larly fascinating  jjrodurt  r)f  the  art  of  the  period.  It  is  not 
a  house  window,  but   the   window   of  a   garden   room.     You 


'This  shop-front  might  be  accepted  as  the  archetype  of  the 
"swell-front"  once  so  familiar  a  feature  of  Roston  street  archi- 
tecture.— Ed. 


result  is  that  it  consists  mainly  of  two  p;irallel  streets  with 
a  tract  of  green  country  between  them.  .Xowadays  the  in- 
creased value  of  land  renders  such  an  arrangement  unduly 
costly,  and  we  have  had  to  face  as  a  result  the  growth  of 
suburbs.  It  was  practically  only  in  London  that  the  suburb 
took  its  rise  as  earlv  as  the  middle  of  last  century,  and  it  is 


98 


THE  GEORGIAN  PERIOD. 


fair  to  own  that  when  the  vahie  of  land  began  to  produce  this 
result  in  our  crowxk'cl  capital  it  did  not  produce  it  in  its 
modern  form.  The  villages  around  London  which  became 
the  rural  homes  of  London  merchants  knew  little  of  our 
modern  rage  for  purchasing  a  plot,  planting  a  house  at  the 
back  of  it,  and  devoting  the  rest  of  the  site 
to  a  serpentine  carriage-drive.  The  man 
(if  the  eighteenth  century,  in  his  suburb 
as  in  his  town,  was  content  to  put  his  door 
(in  the  street  and  to  use  the  whole  of  his 
unoccupied  land  as  secluded  garden. 

I  had  hoped  to  be  able  to  offer  a  photo- 
graph of  a  typical  English  street  of  the 
eighteenth  century.  I  should  probably 
have  taken  my  exanijile  from  Blandford, 
a  little  Dorsetshire  town  which  had  the 
misfortune  to  be  entirely  destroyed  by 
fire  about  the  year  1740.  with  the  fortu- 
nate result  that,  having  been  entirely 
rebuilt  at  that  date,  most  of  its  houses 
have  managed  to  survive  to  the  present 
(lav,  thus  presenting  a  homogeneous  col- 
lection of  Georgian  town  architecture.  I 
have,  as  it  happens,  failed  in  this  attempt, 
but  I  am  able  to  show  instead  a  view  of 
Xorthbrook  Street,  Xewbury  (Fig.  34). 
which,  though  marred  by  some  modern  interpolations,  gives 
something  of  the  eft'ect  of  one  of  these  old-world  thorough- 
fares. Xewbury  further  provides  a  good  example  of  an 
eighteenth-century  bridge  (Plate  25).  Great  pains  and  no 
little  art  were  expended  on  bridges  during  this  period. 
They  were  recognized  as  occasions  for  a  certain  amount  of 


Fijj.  18.  Lantern;  Christ's  Hospital,  Abingdon, 


the  main  entrances  to  the  town,  is  a  good  instance  of  Georgian 
design  in  this  class  of  work. 

The  age  was  not  one  of  great  ecclesiastical  fervor,  the 
rebuilding  of  the  London  City  churches  being  a  result  rather 
of  the  accident  of  the  great  fire  than  of  any  ecclesiological 
spirit,  and  we  must  not,  therefore,  look  for 
nuich  display  of  art  in  church  fittings, 
I)ut  there  are  certain  notable  exceptions, 
in  metalwork,  some  of  which  was  ecclesi- 
astical, the  century  is  verv  strong.  The 
two  chandeliers,  Dutch  in  character,  here 
illustrated  (Figs.  29,  30)  are  as  good  as 
they  need  be  and  are  worthy  of  the  ex- 
cellent standard  which  prevailed  in  smiths' 
work  generally.  .\11  kinds  of  grilles  (Fig. 
35  and  Plate  29),  whether  as  chancel- 
screens  or  entrance-gates,  were  carried 
out  during  this  period  with  noticeable  skill, 
and  Wren  himself  was  in  this,  as  in  other 
departments  of  his  art,  the  father  and  fore- 
runner of  his  successors.  Pulpits  and 
stalls  were  sometimes  moderately  well  ex- 
ecuted. Xot  many  altars  date  from  the 
century,  but  there  is  a  good  one  at  Rye.  if 
somewhat  unusual  in  its  design.  It  will 
be  seen  that  the  frontal,  baffled  by  the  dis- 
regard of  precedent  displayed  by  the  table,  has  solved  its 
difficulty  by  getting  inside   (Fig.  32)  ! 

Finally  and  fittingly  let  me  end  these  examples  with  the 
tombs  (Plate  35).  W'e  have  seen  the  Georgian  inan  in  his 
home — be  it  a  palace  in  a  park  or  a  house  in  a  street;  we 
have  noted  the  warm  welcome  of  his  court  and  of  his  hearth; 


Fig.  19.     RaHcliffe  Library.     James  Gibb>,  Architect. 


Fig.  20.    Cupola:  Town-liall,  High  Wycoinlie,  iiucks. 


architectural  display,  and  the  necessity  for  stout  .stone-con- 
structions together  with  the  need  of  a  balustrade  has  gen- 
erally led  to  their  having  a  certain  Palladian  character.  The 
Chester  Uridge,  familiar  to  many  a  newly-landed  .American 
tourist,  which  carries  the  high-level  wall  walk  across  one  of 


we  have  looked  at  his  church  and  at  his  council  chamber :  we 
have  seen  the  inn  that  welcomed  his  prosperity,  the  alms- 
house that  sheltered  his  adversity ;  we  have  passed  in  review 
his  colleges  and  his  schools.  Let  us  now,  for  an  ending,  fol- 
low him  to  his  grave.     Even  there  he  lies  beneath  the  touch 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  OF  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY  L\  EXCLAND. 


99 


of  that  old  humanity  which  graced  the  accessories  of  his  Hfe. 
A  Classic  baluster  (Fig.  i)  bore  the  gnomon  on  which  the  sun 
marked  his  fleeting  days,  a  Classic  console  decks  the  angles 
of  his  tomb  and  a  Classic  cornice  rims  its  heavy  lid.  And 
if,  as  well  might  be,  his  virtues  and  the  grief  of  his  posterity 
called  for  some  record  within  the  church's  walls  that  should 


outlast  the  weather  beaten  panels  of  the  sepulchre  outside, 
there  was  placed  in  aisle  or  nave  same  graceful  composi- 
tion of  Ionic  or  Corinthian  forms  (Fig.  36)  which  framed  a 
story  of  his  living  and  dying,  written  as  often  as  not  in  the 
very  tongue  of  ancient  Rome. 

Paul  Wateriioi'se.  F.R.I.B.A. 


[Through  unfamiliarity  with  tlio  physical  requirements  of  hook 
making.  Mr.  Waterliousc,  in  his  modesty,  lias  cut  his  paper  short 
Before  providing  matter  enough 
to  "carry"  the  illustrations  that 
Accompany  it.  no  one  of  which 
can  be  spared, and  obviously  long 
before  he  had  said  everything 
about  his  subject  he  would  like  to 
say  and  which  we  and  his  readers 
can  only  regret  that  lie  has  not 
said.  It  is,  however,  a  matter  of 
gratulation  that  we  are  able  to 
satisfy  the  printer's  requirements 
by  appending  to  the  forcging 
paper  parts  of  an  article  written 
upon  a  cognate  subject  by  Mr. 
Waterhouse  and  published  in  the 
Architectural  Review  (London) 
a  year  or  two  ago. — Kn.  | 

"The  Palladian  dictum  that 
the  door  is  to  be  proportioned 
to  the  magnificence  of  tlie 
owner  is  one  that  has  found 
general  modern  acceptance, 
though  perhaps  not  exactly  in 

the  original  sense.  .\  door  being  primarily  an  entrance  for 
men,  there  underlies  our  thought  of  every  door  the  considera- 
tion that  its  si/e  has  been  regulated  bv  the  human  stamlard 


Fig.  21.    Banks  Almshouse,  Faith  Street,  Maidstone.    [Date,  iroo.] 


need  be,  but  that  the  other  is  the  abode  of  a  stiff-necked  and 
high-headed  creature  who  adds  to  his  own  height  by  a  silk 

hat,  and  to  his  wife's  by  heels 
and  feathers.  This  is  the 
rudimentary  application  of  the 
Palladian  theory  removed  only 
one  stage  from  the  wigwam 
phase  of  civilization  when, 
maybe,  the  chief  had  room  lo 
go  into  his  hut  on  his  knees, 
while  his  subjects  crawled  in 
like  the  serpent  upon  their — 
watch-pockets.  r)Ut  the  Pal- 
ladian theory  goes  farther,  and 
takes  account  not  merelv  of 
modern  devices  for  adding  a 
fraction  of  a  cul)it  to  man's 
stature,  but  also  of  those  less 
measurable  attributes,  such  as 
worth  and  wealth,  which  dif- 
ferentiate human  beings  more 
surely  than  feet  lineal.  .  .  . 
"I  suppose  that  the  humanity  of  doorways  has  never  been 
bitter  emphasized  than  in  the  English  architecture  of  tlie 
last    century.     The   early   days   of   the    English    Renaissance 


FiK.22.     TomVins  Almshouse.  AVjington.    (I^^te,  i  733.  j 

■S'ou  see  a  door  si.x  feet  high  in  a  cottage  and  one  eigiit  feet 
high  in  a  villa,  and  you  conclude  from  the  contrast  that  the 
one  is  inhabited  by  a  being  of  normal  size  who  will  stoop  if 


FiK.23.     Bay-window,  Rye,  Sussex 

showed, as  regards  external  architecture.no  excess  of  inodesty. 
We  may  without  calumny  brand  the  sixteenth-century  eleva- 
tions   as    meretricious.     With    the    next    age    came    chastity. 


lOO 


THE  GEORGIAX   PERIOD. 


Fig,  24.    Bay-window,  Saint  Cross,  near 
"Winchester. 


'  Brothers  'personally,  but 
neighbors  in  time — who  recog- 
propriety  of  composition  by 
tion,  were  not  the  men  to  for- 
In  the  bleakest  specimen  of 
if  it  be  of  the  good  period, 
tion — often  a  very  hearty 
theory,  or  tradition,  that  the 
of  the  inside  wliose  duty  it  is 
welcome  to  the  passer-by,  and 
the  hospitality  within. 

"The  mere  function  of 
ringing  and  door  opening  pro- 
ality.  The  very  houses  where 
knockers,  and  where  the  door- 
tlic  floor  of  one  room  Ijcforc 
s  a  in  c  amenity.  Shelter,  or 
forded    as    the    one    external 

"  In    houses    of    more    pre- 


Inigo  Jones  and  his  Palladianism  bore  the  mark 
of  comely  propriety.  The  next  age,  the  age  of 
Anne,  was  prim,  if  you  like,  and  eminently  modest 
— but  it  was  reserved  for  the  reign  of  the  brothers 
Adam  and  their  contemporaries  to  reduce  eleva- 
tion (or  exalt  it)  to  prudery.  They  at  least  were 
no  Pharisees.  W'e  can  level  against  them  no 
taunt  of  whitened  sepulchre  nor  suggestion  of  in- 
ward uncleanness  of  cup  and  platter.  Within  all 
was  fair  and  rich,  delicate  and  elaborate — but 
without — what?  Sometimes  the  grandeur,  recog- 
nizable, if  restrained,  of  Fitzroy  Square  and  Port- 
land l^lace,  but  more  often  the  prudent  monotony 
of  Ilarley  Street. 

"I  will  not  stay  here  to  discuss  whether  it  is 
altogether  ignoble  to  consider  that  architecture 
may  be  composed  of  stock  bricks  and  rectangular 
holes.  I  am  not  sure  but  that  there  is  a  nobility 
of  asceticism  here  which  stands  on  a  high  level; 
with  this,  however,  I  will  not  make  our  concern. 
I  am  onlv  anxious  now  to  give  attention  to  the 
fact  that  the  men  of  this  school,  —  not  merely  the 


i 

1 

IP* 

Fig.  26.     Bull  Inn,  Guildford. 

more  than  it  can  be  drawn  or  de 
utilitarian.     The  '  shell  porch  '  is 


Fig.  25.    Shop-front,  High  Street.  Lewes,  Sussex. 

all  parts  of  England  is  the  well-known  and 
graceful  shell.  The  examples  ■•  here  given 
illustrate  this  familiar  friend  beyond  need 
of  description.  A  bracket  on  either  side, 
springing  either  from  a  pilaster  or  from  a 
less  ambitious  jamb,  supports  the  angles 
of  the  shelter,  the  mouldings  of  which  be- 
tween the  supports  recede  in  a  semi-cir- 
cular form.  Upon  the  basis  of  the  curved 
plan  thus  formed  is  erected  —  if  one  may 
apply  such  a  term  to  vacuity  —  a  hollow, 
which  takes  approximately  the  shape  of  a 
quarter  sphere.  \A'hen  it  is  added  that  the 
brackets  carry  all  the  foliage  they  can,  that 
the  framework  of  the  whole  is  composed 
of  the  formal  delicacies  of  a  Roman 
cornice,  and  that  the  hollow  is  imprinted 
with  the  convolutions  of  a  conventional 
shell,  all  has  been  said  by  way  of  descrip- 
tion that  can  be  said,  except  by  drawing. 
But  there  is  an  inner  sentiment  in  the 
thing  that  cannot  be  passed  over,  any 
scribed.  In  itself  it  is  a  cardinal  proof  that  your 
as  arrant   a    piece   of   useless   beauty   as   you   ma 


Fig.  27.    Bay-window,  High  Street,  GuiltUord. 


t  li  e  i  r  contemporaries  and 
nized  the  possibility,  nay  the 
s  li  e  e  r  undecorated  fenestra- 
get  the  door  and  its  humanity. 
'  brick  and  hole  '  architecture, 
there  is  at  least  some  recogni- 
recognition — of  the  admirable 
front  door  is,  so  to  speak,  a  bit 
to  come  to  the  front  with  a 
to  show  without  some  touch  of 

giving  shelter  between  bell- 
vides  an  initial  excuse  for  geni- 
bells  are  absent  and  even 
opener  has  only  to  step  across 
the  visitor  is  let  in,  profess  the 
pretended  shelter,  is  often  af- 
luxury  of  the  house.  .  .  . 
tension,    a    favorite   device    in 


Fig.  28.    House  at  Battle,  Susse-x.    [Date,  iroo.} 

Englishman   is,    or    at    one    time    was,    no 
V  lay  your  finger  on  in  a  long  search.     Its 


'Plates  6,  8  and  lo.  Part  VIII. 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  OF  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CEXTURY  IX  ENGLAND. 


lOI 


logical  origin,  to  be  sure,  is  the  board  and  bracket  which,  in 
simpler  doorways,  keeps  the  rain  otY  the  waiting  visitor.  To 
this  simple  expedient  art  has,  bit  by  bit,  added  the  luxuries 
of  beauty,  twisting  and  turning  first  one  feature  and  then 
another,  until,  as  result,  a  composition  was  produced  whose 
fair  and  fascinating  outline 
merited  adoption  and  repeti- 
tion. But  in  the  march  of 
beauty,  how  far  has  the  claim 
of  function  been  forgotten ! 
Ours  is  a  country  neither 
equatorial  nor  windless,  so 
that  neither  sun  nor  rain  are 
vertical  in  their  attacks.  It 
comes  to  pass,  therefore,  that 
the  man  at  the  door,  unless  he 
chooses  carefully  his  hour  ami 
his  day,  will  get  neither  shade 
nor  shelter  from  the  fair  white 
woodwork  which  sits  like  u 
smile  on  the  face  of  his 
friends  abode.  Thank 
Heaven  there  are  better  things 

in  this  life  than  commodity  and  common-sense,  and  thank 
Heaven,  too,  for  the  '  shell  porch,'  which  is  evidence  in 
point.  ... 

"  This  is  no  historical  account  of  doors  and  doorways,  nor 
even  a  logical  one,  else  I  would  accuse  myself  of  violated 
;)recedence  in  plunging  thus  early  into  the  advanced  glory  of 
the  shell.  I  should  have 
spoken  earlier  of  what  one  may 
call  'entablature  doorways'  in 
general.  I  say  entablature 
doorways,  not  columnar  door- 
ways, because  there  are  many 
examples  that  enjoy  the  en- 
tablature without  columns, 
and  in  the  majority  of  cases 
where  a  columnar  treatment  i'^ 
used  pilasters  are  substituted 
for  the  round  pillars  of  stricter 
architecture.  .  .  . 

"  The  door  of  the  Brentford 
house. ^  which  boasts  what  one 
may  call  the  .\damite  version 
of  the  Greek  Corinthian,  !■; 
obviously  m  o  r  e  decorous 
The  modillions  to  be  sure  are 
missed,  but  their  absence  is 
more  than  made  up  for  by  the 
brilliant  chastity  of  the  whole 
composition.  There  is  one 
fault,  small  but  awful,  which  a 
layman's  eye  would  perhaps 
pass  over — the  slight  excess 
in  the  diameter  innnediatcK 
above  the  necking  of  the 
capitals.  This  is  no  doubt  a 
crime  rather  of  execution  than 
<if  design,  but  it  is  a  lamentable  defect  in  a  work  oi'  art  wlio-^e 
niceties  are  as  delicate  as  the  beauty  of  a  face.  .  .  . 

"  From  examples  of  this  sort,  where  the  cohunr.s  st.ind 
free,  it  is  but  a  step  to  a  simpler  and  less  functional,  but 
scarcely  less  beautiful,  type,  in  which  the  cohnnns  are  at- 
tached to  the  face  of  the  wall.     Here,  as  in  an  example  from 


Fig,  2M.    Caniielabrum  :  Church  i>l  .St.  Mar>',  Horsmonden.  Kent 


FJK.  30.     CaiiiictaliruMi :  Xor'.hia 


Dorking,  utility  gives  way  wholly  to  ornament.  There  is  no 
pretence  of  shelter;  the  entire  composition,  columns  and 
entablature,  has  become  frankly  a  framework,  and  nothing 
more.  Were  I  called  to  choose  between  these  two,  I  would 
be  honest,  give  up  the  choice,  and  clamor  for  compromise. 

''  The  next  stage  in  the 
development  (if  I  mav  con- 
tinue this  process  of  evolu- 
tion, which  is  possibly  logical, 
but  not  necessarily  historical) 
is  the  reduction  of  the  attached 
columns  to  mere  i)ilasters.  I 
confess  a  preference  for  other 
types,  but  this  is  no  implica- 
tion that  I  deny  the  beauty  of 
this  one. 

''  Of  the  doorways  that  alto- 
gether discard  the  column, 
even  in  its  pilaster  form,  there 
is  no  lack  of  examples.  Their 
habit  is  to  carry  a  more  or  less 
projecting  cornice  on  a  corbel 
or  console.  Sometimes  these 
corbels  take  their  bed  on  a  plain  face  adjoining  the  door- 
frame, sometimes  upon  the  frame  itself  —  sometimes  upon  a 
sort  of  parody  of  a  pilaster.  There  are  cases  in  which 
cherubs  form  a  part  either  of  the  supporting  members  or  of 
the  decoration,  being,  no  doubt,  a  Protestant  version  of  the 
blessing    which    the    Roman    Church    invokes    in    the    words 

'Inter    parities     doinus     Isliiis 
nngici  Tiii  liicis  inliabilcnt.' 

"  I  will  now  go  back  to  a 
rich  example  at  Groombridge 
Place  -  —  rich,  not  in  the  over- 
laying of  decoration,  but  in 
the  multiplicity  of  simple  parts. 
It  is.  in  fact,  not  a  porcii  hut 
.1  colonnade,  or,  ratlier,  it  is  a 
mixture  of  both.  .Vrcliitects 
will  .-it  once  notice  a  remark- 
;dile  feature  in  the  composi- 
tion. The  entablature  is  level, 
w  bile  the  balustrade  rakes  with 
the  steps,  and  yet  two  of  the 
cohnnns  are  based  at  the 
lower  and  six  at  the  higher 
level.  How  are  the  propor- 
tions manoeuvred?  l'>riefly, 
liy  a  disregard  of  the  orthodox 
dimensions  which,  oddly 
enough,  is  in  this  case  accept- 
al)le.  The  taller  colunms  are 
even  ten  diameters  high  —  the 
smaller  just  nine.  It  is  possi- 
ble that  the  effect  from  the 
otUsidc,  where  the  difference 
is  abetted  bv  tlie  dimiinition 
of  ]ierspective.  is  better  than 
the  appearance  from  within, 
where  the  two  would  rim  comiter.  I  cannot  say.  for  I  know 
it  only  from  photographs. 

lint  we  have  been  dealing  in  details,  and  have  lost  sight 
of  the  door-humanity.  Where,  you  will  ask.  does  the 
humanity  come  in  in  the  examples  before  us?  That  is  more 
than    T    can    tell   anv   one   who   doesn't    feel    it    for   himself; 


'See  cut  on  pasjc  K)-' 


".'^ee  cut  on  pa.ye  lo.v 


102 


THE   GEORGIAN   PERIOD. 


hut  I  can  suggest 
a  point-of-vic\v  from 
which  it  will  become 
visible  to  most 
people.  Do  y  o  u 
notice  that  the 
houses  on  w  h  i  c  h 
these  il  o  o  r  w  a  y  s 
grow  are  v  e  r  y 
largely  buildings  of 
extreme  simplicity? 
They  have  perhaps 
a  bit  of  extrava- 
gance about  their 
eaves-cornices,  but 
their  walls  are 
mostly  plain  brick, 
and  their  windows 
plain  o  p  e  n  i  n  g  s 
formed  in  the  sim- 
plest fashion  nf 
which  their  material 
admits.  Rut  what 
of  the  doorway  ?  Tt 
could  have  been  a 
plain  opening,  too, 
—  a  severe  oblong, 
with  a  square  brick 
arch  atop  and  plain 
brick  sides.  filled 
w  i  t  h  the  simplest 
possible  framing  of 
w  o  o  d  th;it  would 
keep  out  thieves  and 
weather.  Had  it 
been  so  it  would  in 
m  any  of  the  ex- 
amples h  a  V  e  only 
been  in  keeping 
c  o  n  s  t  r  u  ctionally 
with  the  ascetic 
character  of  the  rest 
of  the  work.  Rut 
wliat  do  we  find  in- 
stead  ?  —  elabora- 
tion, expense,  ex- 
cess, affectation  (if 
you  dare  to  use  the 
w  o  r  d  w  h  c  n  vou 
should  say.  rather, 
studied  grace),  and 
sometimes  frivolity. 
'!"  h  e  s  e  qualities, 
what  are  they  but 
imman  ?  What  vou 
find  in  these  doors 
is  no  rule-of-thumb 
from  the  polytech- 
nics, no  mere  off- 
spring of  builder's 
craft  and  borough 
by-laws,  but  a  bit  of 
pure  human  effu- 
s  i  o  n  .  Let  us  go 
farther  and  strain  a 
point,  for  what  good 


^'^^^ 


•En^. 


FlK.  32.    Altar-table  in  North  Chapel:  Rye  Church.  Sussex. 


is  there  in  points  if 
you  can't  strain 
them  ?  You  know 
what  '  humanity  ' 
meant  among  the 
Q  u  a  1 1  r  o  centists. 
To-day,  at  Oxford, 
we  keep  that  mean- 
ing alive  in  giving 
the  name  of  lit  era 
hmnaniorcs  to  the 
w  hole  wealth  of 
("lassie  literature 
a  n  d  t  h  e  histories 
and  p  h  i  1  o  s  o  p  hies 
which  it  contains. 
It  has  been  well  said 
that  the  two  great 
discoveries  of  the 
Renaissance  were 
the  discovery  of  the 
world  and  the  dis- 
c  o  V  e  r  y  of  man. 
.\nd  the  man  whom 
the  men  of  that  day 
foimd  was  no  new 
m  a  n  ,  but  the  old 
.\dam  of  Greece 
and  Rome.  Hu- 
manity with  them 
was  Classicism;  the 
humanists  indeed 
were  students  of 
man,  but  the  man- 
nature  they  studied 
w  a  s  the  man  of 
their  own  dead  Italy 
and  the  man  of  Hel- 
las. Now  for  our 
stretched  point,  if. 
indeed,  it  can  be 
said  to  be  stretched ; 
the  door  of  these 
last-century  houses 
is  certainly  human 
in  the  sense  that  it, 
most  of  all  features 
of  the  house, 
breathes  a  spirit  of 
Classic  tradition. 
W'c  live  among 
miracles,  and  so  rub 
shoulders  with  the 
marvellous  that  we 
deny  the  wonder  of 
h  a  1  f  the  portents 
which  lie  under  our 
noses ;  but  of  all  the 
astonishing  things 
that  a  traveller  hur- 
ries past  as  he  finds 
his  way  through 
remote  country  vil- 
lages and  little 
sleepy  market- 
towns,    there    is    to 


THE  ARCHITECTURE  OF  THE  EIGHTEENTH  CENTURY  IN  ENGLAND.  103 


Fig    i3.     Portico:   " Groombridge  Place,"  near  Tunbridge-Wells,  Eng 


'---^^^''':;:^W^ 


my  mind  notliiiij^ 
so  amazingly  in- 
credible as  the 
nbiquitous  witness 
of  that  fantastic 
and  lovable  revival 
which  took  ])laci 
l)ctween  the  shores 
of  the  Adriatic 
and  the  Mediter- 
ranean, four  hun- 
dred years  ago 
And  in  all  t  h  i  ^ 
nniltitude  of  tcsti 
mony  there  is  notli 
ing  that  bears  its 
part  so  bravely 
and  so  consist- 
ently  as  the  front 
door  of  a  solid, 
stolid  insular 
Briton's  house. 
Here,  if  anywhere 
on  the  face  of  a 
h  0  m  e  .  however 
simple,  is  found 
the  oppor  t  u  n  i  t  y 
for  Latinism  —  or. 
if  you  will,  for 
h  u  m  a  n  ism  :  and 
thus  it  CO  m  e  > 
about  by  a  chain 
of  circ  u  m  s  t  a  n  - 
ces  too  strong  to 
be  resisted  and 
almost     too     mar 


HiK.  .14.     NortiittrcKjk  .Street.  Xf\vbur\'    Berks 


Fig.  35.    Iron  Gate,  the  Temple,  London. 


\ellous  to  be  be- 
lieved, that  here 
a  farmer,  there  a 
c  o  u  n  t  r  y  doctor, 
now  a  publican, 
and  now  a  grocer 
cherishes  upon  the 
countenance  of  his 
simple  abode  (or 
possibly  only 
tolerates,  but  still 
m  a  i  n  t  a  i  n  s)  the 
faithful  echo  of  a 
,u:reat  Italian  cult- 
ure which  in  itself 
was  the  echo  of 
the  art  of  two 
great  dead  na- 
tions. H  o  w  ap- 
propria  tely  the 
butcher,  the  baker, 
and  the  candle- 
stick-  maker  of 
many  an  unlearned 
h  ,-i  m  1  e  t  ni  i  s  b  t 
stand  in  his  ])orch 
in  all  ;i  l'>riton's 
pride  and  sav  for 
himself,  in  more 
senses  tli.-in  he  will 
e  \'  e  r  imderstand 
( ;ind  in  a  language 
whose  V  r  r  v  sur- 
vival is  a  proof  of 
my  cont  e  n  t  i  o  n). 
that     world-known 


'Ry  permission  of  Mr.  T.  Hawkins. 


104 


THE  GEORGIAN   PERIOD. 


saying,  which  an  old  suburban  tossed  across  the  garden-wall  in  one  of  Terence's  plays,  'Homo  sum  htimani  nihil  a  me 
alicnum  puto,'  which  being  interpreted,  in  a  free  kind  of  way,  runs,  'I  am  a  man,  what  more  do  you  want  by  way  of 
excuse  for  my  pilasters  and  entablature.     My  good  sir,  they  are  but  humanities.' 

"  Some  may  think  that  the  door-designers  who  have  been  content  to  cling  so  closely  to  a  limited  range  of  types  give 
evidence  of  a  deficient  fancy,  and  therefore  of  a  deficient  art.  We  know  that  identification  of  the  power  to  design 
with  a  capacity  for  novelty  and  cliange.  It  is  the  very  proof  that  the  secrets  of  art  are  not  the  property  of  the  multitude. 
The  patient  iteration  of  acknowledged  beauty,  the  faithful  continuance  of  tradition,  the  humility  which  seeks  rather  the 
production  of  excellence  than  the  notoriety  of  novelty — all  these  are  badges,  not  of  mediocrity  but  of  that  gracious 
continence    whicii    is    the    very    mother  of  good  art." 


CHII'PEND.AI.E  .S  SHOP. 

Admirkks  of  Chippen- 
dale furniture  may  be 
interested  to  know  that 
t  h  e  curiously  -carved 
stone  doorwa\'  left  tem- 
porarily standing  at  60 
St.  Martin's  Lane,  Char- 
ing-cross  (the  adjoining 
property  having  been 
demolished)  was  once  the 
entrance  to  Chippen- 
dale's workshops  a  n  d 
timber-yard.  C  h  i  p  p  e  n- 
dale's  great  rival,  Cobb, 
had  workshops  not  far 
away,  at  the  corner  of  St. 
Martin's  Lane  and  what 
is  now  Garrick  Street. 


WREN  S    LONDON    HOUSE. 

The  dwelling  of  Sir 
Christopher  Wren  is  now 
a  national  school  in  Bo- 
tolph  Lane,  London. 
The  house  still  contains 
a  finely-carved  wooden 
staircase,  but  his  private 
chapel  has  become  a 
warehouse,  with  a  win- 
dow over  the  ceiling. 
Xear  by  stands  the 
church  said  to  have  been 
designed  by  his  daughter, 
and  which  is  peculiar  in 
that  the  stone  of  which  it 
is  built  remains  white  to 
some  extent  in  spite  of 
all  the  citv  smoke. 


Fig.  36.    Memorial  Tablet ;  Atheringion  Cliurch. 
North  Devon,  Eng. 


A  Triad  of  Georgian  Churches  in  London/ 


"A 


ST.  MAk\-LE-STRA.\l).- 

LTHOUGll     the     ])resent     l)uil(liiig.     of     which 

(iibbs  was  the  architect,  was  one  of  the  fiftv 

new   churches   ordered   to   be   built   in   certain 

jiopidous  localities,  it  represents  a  greater  an- 

for  there   liad  been   an   ancient   church,   not  e.xactlv 

ame  site,  but  at  no  greater  distance   from  it.     Stow 

the  parish  church  of  the  Xativitv  of  our  Lady  and 


luiuity 

on  the 

calls  it 

of  the  Holy  Innocents  of  the  Strand.'  and  further  states  that 

it  was  also  known  to  some  as  the  church  of  St.  Ursula,  from 

a  brotherliood  kept  there.' 


'Mk.  Waterhoi'se's  brief  references  in  the  precedin.s?  paper 
to  the  three  great  architects  of  the  period.  Wren,  Gibbs  aii<l 
Hawksmoor.   lead   us  to  incorporate   here   the    followinn;  extracts 


"  .\earlv  the  whole  parish  belonging  to  this  church,  to- 
gether with  the  church  itself  and  its  churchyard.  Chester's 
or  Strand  Inn  and  Worcester's  Inn  (belonging  to  the  bishop 
of  that  see)  and  the  tenements  annexed,  were  all  destroyed 
by  the  Protector  Somerset,  about  the  year  1549.  and  upon 
the  levelled  ground  he  built  his  stately  palace,  called  Somer- 
set House.  The  parishioners,  being  thus  deprived  of  their 
church,  had  to  go  elsewhere,  a  state  of  affairs  that  lasted 
until  1713.  when,  the  neighborhood  having  in  the  meanwhile 
become  more  populous,  one  of  the  first  duties  of  the  com- 
missioners was  to  assign  a  new  district,  or  parish,  and  build 
a  church,  to  be  named  after  the  old  church  of  St.  Mary. 

"  The  site  chosen  was  in  the  widest  part  of  the  Strand. 

from   Birch's  "London   Churches  of  the  Sez'entcenth  and  Eight- 
rrnfli  Centuries."  lo.ncther  with  their  related  ilkistrations. — Ed. 
■Plates  32-34.  Part  VIII. 


A  TRIAD  OF  GEORGIAN  CHURCHES  IN  LONDON. 


105 


nearly  opposite  Somerset  House,  where  the  maypole,  and  in 
much  earlier  times  a  stone  cross,  had  stood.  The  maypole 
was  moved  a  little  farther  westward,  where  it  had  but  a  short 
existence,  for  it  was  abolished  five  years  afterwards.  Sir 
Isaac  Newton  obtained  possession  of  it  from  the  inhabitants. 
and  it  found  its  way  to  Wanstead  Park',  where  it  became  the 
support,  or  stand,  for  a  large  telescope. 

"  The  new  church,  of  which  the  foundation-stone  was  laid 
in  1 714,  vvas  consecrated  on  January  i,  1723.  Like  Gibbs's 
work  generally,  it  is  almost  pedantic  in  its  close  adherence 
to  the  rules  of  Classic  art,  and  lacks  the  masculine  vigor  of 
Hawksmoor.  It  is  a  beautiful  church,  perhaps  finer  exter- 
nally than  internally,  and  its  happy  contiguity  to  Somerset 
House,  together  with  its  own  commanding  position,  render 
it  one  of  the  most  prominent  and  best  seen  of  all  the  London 
churches,  and  it  would  be  the  grossest  act  of  vandalism  to 
remove  it :  yet,  unhappily,  more  than  one  attempt  to  do  so 
has  been  made.  In  plan  it  is  a  parallelogram,  some  64  feet 
in  length  by  38  feet  in  width.  The  chancel,  better  developed 
in  this  than  in  many  contemi)orarv  buildings,  terminates 
eastward  in  an  apse,  and  is  flanked  on  each  side,  north  and 
south,  by  two  rather  diminutive  vestries.  The  arrangement 
at  the  west  end  is  peculiar,  for  the  tower  is  considerablv 
broader  from  north  to  south  than  from  east  to  west,  and 
there  are  vestibules  on  each  side  (similar  to  the  vestries  at 
the  other  end),  in  one  of  which  is  placed  the  staircase  giving 
access  to  the  west  gallery.  The  west  door  is  ])receded  bv  a 
semi-circular  porch  or  peristyle  of  Ionic  columns.  The  floor 
of  the  church  is  well  elevated  above  the  street  level,  and  a 
handsome  flight  of  stone  steps  leads  up  to  it.  following  the 
same  lines  as  the  porch. 

"Externally,  the  church  is  of  two  orders — Ionic  below 
and  Corinthian  above.  Both  have  their  proper  entablature, 
the  latter  being  finished  on  the  north  and  south  sides  with 
alternate  angular  and  circular  pediments,  and  with  a  stone 
balustrade  and  vases,  continued  .ill  round  the  building.  The 
spaces  between  the  columns  on  the  up|)er  stage  have  well- 
'^esigned  and  well-proportioned  windows,  while  the  lower 
stage  has  semi-circular  niches  and  no  openings  but  to  the 
vestibules,  so  as  to  shut  out  the  sound  of  the  street  traffic  as 
much  as  possible.  The  lower  entablature  is  carried  round 
the  porch,  which  is  finished  by  rather  a  flat  half-domed  top. 
carrying  an  urn.  Originally  a  statue  of  Queen  .\nne  stood 
on  this  half  dome,  but  tlie  >tatue  was  renuived  and  the  urn 
substituted  not  long  after  its  erection.  There  is  a  tradition 
that  this  >tatue  was  again  set  up  at  Queen's  Gate,  West- 
minster, and  in  this  new  position  was  placed  against  the  wall 
to  conceal  the  fact  that  it  was  unfinislied,  the  back  being  left 
in  the  rough  only.  .V  very  sa<l  accident,  whicli  led  to  fatal 
results,  happened  in  connection  with  this  church  at  the 
proclamation  of  peace  by  the  heralds  in  1802.  Some  people 
were  on  the  roof  of  the  church,  and  leaning  on  the  parapet, 
when  one  of  the  vases  gave  way  in  conseipience  of  improper 
dowelling,  and  fell  on  the  heads  of  those  below,  killing  two 
outright  and  two  others  eventually  succumbing  to  tluir 
injuries.  When  officers  were  sent  up  to  arrest  him,  the 
author  of  the  catastrophe  was  found  to  have  fainted  from 
horror.  The  tower,  which  is  shown  so  completely  in  the 
plate  that  a  detailed  description  is  unnecessarv.  has  a  verv 
imposing  appearance,  when  viewed  from  either  the  east  or 
the  west,  but  the  reverse  when  seen  from  tlie  north  or  south, 
as  it  is  so  much  nrirrower  on  these  sides.  I'or  this  defect 
Gibbs  is  scarcel'  responsible,  as  when  he  designed  the  church 
it  was  intendel  to  have  a  small  western  turret  only,  and  a 
grand  monumental  cohnnn.  250  feet  high,  surmoinited  with 
a  statue  of  Queen  .\nne.  was  to  have  been  erected  some  80 


feet  in  front.  The  stone  was  actually  obtained  for  this,  but 
the  queen  died,  and  the  commissioners  fell  back  upon  a 
design  for  a  steeple  to  the  church  and,  although  the  building 
had  already  advanced  some  20  feet  out  of  the  ground,  Gibbs 
had  to  work  his  existing  walls  in  so  as  to  carrv  the  steeple. 

"  Considering  the  richness  of  the  architecture  employed 
externally,  the  interior  is  disappointing.  The  main  ceiling 
is  an  ellipse,  and  is  covered  with  small  panels  or  coffers, 
groined  over  the  windows,  while  the  chancel  ceiling,  which 
is  lower,  is  a  semi-circle  in  section.  The  double  order  is 
also  used  internally,  for  the  walls  are  in  two  divisions,  and 
Corinthian  pilasters,  with  Composite  ones  above,  divide  the 
church  into  bays,  the  lower  parts  of  which  are  left  blank, 
while  the  windows  occupy  the  higher.  The  design  to  the 
entrance  of  the  chancel  is  pleasing;  it  has  coupled  columns 
sui)porting  a  jjediment.  with  the  royal  arms.  The  interior 
has  been  rearranged,  the  hi.gh  pewing  lowered,  and  the 
])ulpit,  originally  placed  in  front  of  the  chancel  arch,  moved 
to  one  side.  Gibbs's  estimate  for  this  church  was  $8,997, 
hut  the  total  cost  amounted  to  £16,341   is  2d.'' 


CHRIST    CnURlll.    Sl'ITALFIELDS. 

[I7I5] 

"  TitERE  had  been  in  old  times  a  small  church  and  hospi- 
tal in  this  locality,  which  had  given  the  name  to  the  adjacent 
fields,  but  it  had  long  fallen  to  decay,  and  the  fields  were 
built  over  when,  in  1715,  the  first  stone  of  this  fine  church 
was  laid,  Nicholas  Hawksmoor  being  the  architect. 

''  Both  for  its  plan  and  its  architecture  the  church  ^  is 
unique.  It  is  unlike  any  building  of  Wren's,  although  from 
Hawksmoor's  association  with  him,  one  would  have  looked 
for  some  similarity,  such  as  usually  exists  between  the  works 
of  master  and  pupil.  The  chief  peculiarity  in  the  plan  is  the 
amount  of  space  devoted  to  vestibules,  lobbies,  staircases 
and  vestries,  and  the  unusual  distribution  of  the  columns, 
tor,  although  possessing  nave  and  aisles,  the  colonnades 
dividing  these  are  not  treated  continuously,  either  as  regards 
the  shape  of  the  columns  or  the  spaces,  both  the  east  and 
west  bavs  being  much  the  narrower.  Two  piers  are  intro- 
duced on  each  side  to  vary  the  monotony  of  the  single 
columns.  These  piers  have  pilasters  attached  to  the  north 
;ind  south  sides,  their  use  not  being  very  apparent,  as  they 
carrv  nothing  bevond  a  smaller  pilaster  on  the  side  of  the 
nave;  this  runs  up  to  the  flat  ceiling,  which,  owing  to  its 
arrangement  of  panels,  does  not  need  support.  The  columns 
are  of  the  Composite  order,  on  high  bases,  carrying  an  en- 
tablature at  right  angles  to  the  walls,  a  fashion  introduced 
by  Wren  at  St.  James's  Piccadilly,  but  which  is  more  pleas- 
ingly carried  out  here  by  his  pupil.  From  these  entablatures 
spring  the  arches,  which  have  squared  coffered  sol'fites:  the 
archeil  ceilings  of  the  aisles,  which  follow  the  same  curve, 
;ire  divided  into  hexagonal  ])anels,  with  circular  tlowers  in 
each,  an  arrangement  which  gives  to  the  arcade  a  deeply 
recessed  a])pearance,  and  is  certainly  a  very  pl(;asing  feature. 
The  arcade  has  boldly  moulded  key-stones,  and  a  moulded 
cornice,  above  which  is  the  clerestory.  The  ceiling  is  very 
sim|)le.  being  divided  centrally  into  seven  large  [)anels.  with 
smaller  ones  on  each  side.  se])arated  by  flat  bands  of  orna- 
ment, while  circular  flowers  decorate  the  centre  of  each. 
The  galleries,  with  the  exception  of  the  west  one.  have  been 
removed,  and  this  necessarily  gives  an  unmeaning  look 
to    the    double    tier    of    side    windows  —  a    bad    effect    nutch 


'Plates  37,  38,  Part  VIII. 


io6 


THE   GEORGIAN   PERIOD. 


minimized  by  the  upper  range  being  circular.  The  most 
extraordinary  departure  from  precedent  consists  in  continuing 
the  colonnade  across  the  east  and  west  ends,  that  at  the  west 
being  broken  in  the  centre  by  the  introduction  of  the  organ, 
while  at  the  east  end  the  entablature  is  carried  across,  and 
this  screen  of  colunms  produces  an  effect  which  can  only  )x' 
described  as  '  scenic."  riie  chancel,  behind  this  screen,  is 
divided  into  two  portions,  the  first  of  which  has  curved  sides, 
narrowing  it  to  a  square  recess,  and  all  this  part  of  the 
church,  which  should  be  the  richest,  is  perfectly  plain,  with  a 
flat  plaster  ceiling.  The  east  window  is  of  the  X'enetian 
tvpe.  and  above  this  there  is  a  semi-circular  one.  Internally 
the  church  was  much  altered  many  years  ago,  when  the  seats 
were  lowered,  and  the  galleries  removed  by  the  late  Ewan 
Christian,  and  although  it  can  be  rarely  said  with  regard  to 
churches  of  this  type  that  the  removal  of  the  galleries  is  an 
improvement,  in  this  case  it  certainly  was  so.  The  old 
pulpit  remains,  but  has  been  lowered,  and  the  sounding- 
board  is  now  suspended :  but  old  brass  branches  have  been 
utilized  for  gas-iights.  Externally,  the  same  extraordinary 
departure  from  all  recognized  rules  makes  this  church  very 
difficult  to  describe.  The  curious  portico  with  its  arched 
top,  the  extra  width  given  to  the  east  and  west  sides  of  the 
tower,  which  are  prolonged  so  as  to  stand  in  advance  of 
the  side  walls,  and  are  brought  back  again  to  a  square  belfry- 
stage  bv  inverted  plain  curved  trusses,  and  the  small  arcaded 
stage  sup])orting  the  octagonal  s])ire,  almost  Norman  in  out- 
line, are  features  which,  combined,  cause  Christ  Church, 
Spitalfields.  to  stand  alone  as  a  moiniment  of  architectural 
eccentricitv :  it  is,  after  all.  an  eccentricity  which  pleases. 
The  estimate  for  this  church  was  £13,570,  but  the  actual 
cost  was  £19,418  3i.  6d." 


CHRIST    CHURCH,    NEWGATE    STREET. 

[1686-7.] 

■'  This  church,  the  tower  and  spire  of  which  is  so  con- 
spicuous an  object  on  the  left-hand  side  of  Newgate  Street, 
is  one  of  Wren's  largest,  but  unfortunately  not  one  of  his 
finest.  It  occupies  the  site  of  tlie  old  Franciscan  Friary 
Church,  being  built  on  tlie  clioir  of  that  stately  and  niagnifi- 
cent  edifice,  which  perished  in  the  fire.  The  old  church  was 
usually  known  as  the  Greyfriars,  and  was  the  largest  of  the 
churches  belonging  to  the  mendicant  orders,  being  over 
300  feet  in  length.     .     .     . 

■■  After  the  fire,  in  which  it  was  totally  destroyed,  Wren 
built  the  present  church  on  the  choir  only  of  the  ancient 
edifice,  while  the  space  where  the  nave  stood  was  left  as  a 
churchyard.  He  built  his  columns  and  walls  on  the  actual 
site  of  the  older  ones,  and  the  proportions  which  suited  the 
former  fabric  so  well  are  not  very  happy  in  this.  .  .  . 

"  The  interior  of  this  large  and  spacious  church  cannot  be 
considered  one  of  the  happiest  of  \\' ten's  efiforts.  but  exter- 
nally it  possesses  a  beautiful  tower,  which,  although  shorn  of 
its  upper  range  of  vases,  the  loss  of  which  gives  a  pagoda- 
like appearance  to  it,  is  still  a  very  fine  one.  It  is  much  to 
be  regretted  that  these  vases  cannot  be  replaced,  as  they 
greatly  heli)cd  the  pyramidal  effect.  It  is  said  that  they  had 
become  dangerous,  and  were  removed  in  consequence.  The 
church  was  not  rebuilt  until  1686-87.  so  that  the  parishioners 
had  been  without  a  church  for  over  twenty  vears,  during 
which  time  provision  for  divine  worship  seems  to  have  been 
made  by  building  a  tabernacle  among  the  ruins;  interment 
still  went  on  in  the  pavement  of  the  present  church,  which  is 
the  ancient  one.  dated  during  this  period.'' 


.\e«Kaie  Prison —  'Olf!  Bailey."  London.'    [Date,  1770.]    George  Dance.  Jr..  Architect. 


'As  Newgate  Prison  is  just  ;iround  the  corner  from  Christ  Churcli,  as  Dance  was  one  of  the  noted  architects  of  the  time  and  as 
the  structure  itself  is  now  vacant  and  on  the  point  of  being  pulled  down,  we  introduce  here  an  illustration  reproduced  from  a  recent 
issue  of  the  Builder. — Ed. 


Georgian  Architecture  in  Dublin." 


HE    Four    Georges    have    often    been    ridiculed    and      men  of  parts  and  enlightened  views,  they  did  not  set  about 
maligned,  but  I  do  not  propose,  in  this  paper,  to  act      their  work  in  any  mean  spirit.     They  did  not  enter  upon  their 

task  by  reforming  the  old  city,  but  devoted  their  energies  to 
making  what  was  in  reality  a  new  city,  trusting  that  the  old 
town  would  by  this  means  be  relieved  of  its  congestion  and. 
by  force  of  example,  gradually  fall  into  line  with  its  new 
rival.  How  gloriously  all  this  went  on  for  a  number  of  years 
and  how  it  ended  is  now  a  matter  of  history  which  it  is  not 
my  intention  to  go  into:  my  province  is  to  call  attention  to 
the  glorious  centre  of  work  in  this  city  which  we,  as  archi- 
tects, cannot  fail  to  admire,  and  be  thankful  that  such  men 
lived  and  used  their  opportunity  to  adorn  our  city  with  beauti- 


T 

I  as  their  defender  or  accuser.     I  have  a  simple  and 

^  pleasing  duty  to  perform,  which  is,  to  use  their  name 
and  apply  it  to  a  period  of  architectural  growth  in  Dublin 
which  raised  it  from  architectural  poverty  to  comparative 
affluence  in  the  art-world.  Dublin  before  the  advent  of  the 
Georges  was,  so  far  as  its  buildings  were  concerned,  a  dead 
city  and  also  a  small  city.  In  the  year  1644  its  population 
is  given  as  X,i59,  in  1777  as  137,208.  in  1S03  as  169,528. 
Although  these  figures  are  not  altogether  reliable,  as  they  do 
not   include   nnv   but   adults,   vet   thev   are   suflficientlv   so   to 


Custom  house.  Dublin.-' [  i  :.S|    )     Jan.cs  ( i.itiii 


show  that  the  growth  of  the  city  was  remarkable  daring  the 
period,  and  show  that  it  was  indeed  a  golden  age.  Previous 
to  this  perio<l  many  of  its  citizens  had  made  their  mark  in 
history,  but  the  city  as  a  city  was  still  in  the  mediaeval  state, 
with  narrow  streets  and  a  congested  population,  huddled 
together  more  for  protection  than  comfort;  but  under  the 
(Jeorgian  regime  it  blossomed  into  a  truly  metro|)olitan  city. 
with  wide  streets  and  noble  buildings,  and  became  the  ]n\(n 
around  which  gathered  a  larger  jiercentage  of  brilliant  men 
than  in  any  citv  of  its  size  at  the  time.     .\nd  as  thev  were 


ful  and  enduring  buildings  that  excite  our  admiration  and  are 
ti)  us  at  once  an  ever-open  book  of  instruction  and  a  lasting 
memorial  to  their  skill.  It  is  true  that  this  architectural  out- 
burst was  not  peculiar  to  Dublin,  but  it  is  .ilso  true  that  few 
cities  can  show  as  a  result  of  such  arciiitectural  renascence 
SI)  manv  ])iiblic  and  private  buildings  of  such  excellent  taste 
;nid  refinement. 

The  striking  feature  of  Dublin  is  its  wide  line  of  streets 
and  si|uares  ;ind  the  effect  of  its  public  buildings,  so  judi- 
ciously  placed.      The   lines    from    College   Green   to    Rutland 


'Mr.  T.  E.  Hiidnian  has  been  good  enough  to  write  out  for  us 
the  address  made  by  him  in  Ucceniber,  1900,  before  tlie  Arciii- 
tectural .Association  of  London,  and  has  also  provided  more  illus- 


trations that  we  can  use,  some  tlie  product  of  Iiis  own  camera  anil 
others  procured  from  W'm.  Lawrence  &  Son,  of  Dublin. 
"Tlie  ori.cinal  cost  of  tliis  building  was  about  £560,000. 


io8 


THE  GEORGIAN   PERIOD. 


Square  would  be  hard  to  beat,  not  to  mention  Merrion  Square, 
Fitzwilliam  Square  and  St,  Stephen's  Green  with  their  sur- 
rounding network  of  streets.  The  line  of  quays  starting 
from  the  Custom-house  and  finishing  with  the  Phoenix  Park 
was  a  magnificent  conception.  Unfortunately,  the  controlling 
influence  over  some  of  the  buildings  "en  route"  appears  to 
have  been  relaxed,  and  the  decadent  period  set  in  before  the 


Bridge  to  the  Castle  of  Dublin,  to  meet  at  such  places  as 
they  think  fit,"  and  they  were  empowered  to  make  a 
passage  through  such  ground  and  to  have  the  houses  built 
on  each  side  of  the  new  street  in  whatever  manner  they 
should  deem  most  eligible  ;  they  were  further  empowered  to 
agree  for  the  purchase  of  such  ground  with  all  the  parties 
concerned,  and,  in  case  any  refused  to  sell  or  show  their  title, 


Weaver  Square,  Dublin:  Early  Georgian. 


Early  Georgian  Houses  in  Chamber  Street,' 


scheme  was  completed;  but  even  now.  under  certain  condi- 
tions of  sky  and  atmosphere,  the  view,  looking  westward, 
from  Carlisle  Bridge  is  superb,  both  for  color  and  archi- 
tectural effect. 

The  building  of  the  Custom-house  aided  another  fine  effort 
in  street-planning,  by  the  formation  of  (iardiner  Street, 
Mountjoy  Square.  Xorth  Great  George's  Street,  Great  Den- 
mark Street,  round  about  St.  George's  Church,  and  Kccles 
Street, 

.\nother  stroke  of  genius  in  city-planning  was  the  idea  of 
the  Circular  Roads,  North  and  South,  by  means  of  which  the 
canals  from  the  interior  of  the  country  were  brought  to  en- 
circle the  city  and  terminate  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  in 
shipping-docks,  and  on  each  side  of  these  canals  were  made 
wide  roads,  lined  with  rows  of  trees,  thus  forming  a  wide 
boulevard  of  about  nine  miles'  circumference  round  the  citv, 
along  which  were  built  numerous  fine  houses ;  and  although 
cilice  then  there  have  been  numerous  encroachments  which 
injure  this  ideal  thoroughfare,  it  still  affords  a  pleasant 
promenade  and  has  great  artistic  merits  which  remind  one  of 
Holland, 

.•Ml  this  excellent  work  was  due  to  the  appointment  of  a 
Commission  called  the  "Wide  Streets  Commission,"  which 
was  originally  called  into  being  for  the  purpose  of  making  a 
better  means  of  communication  from  the  Castle  to  the  river, 
and  so  Parliament  Street  came  into  being.  It  was  a  small 
effort  and  its  importance  can  hardlv  be  judged  at  this  period, 
as  we  have  only  very  meagre  descriptions  of  the  congested 
and  inconvenient  district  around  the  Castle,  but  this  Parlia- 
ment Street  evidently  opened  their  eyes  and  led  to  the  widen- 
ing of  Dame  Street  and  the  setting  back  of  several  of  tlie 
houses  in  College  Green,  and  ultimately  tn  all  the  other  lines 
of  streets  and  squares. 

This  Commission  was  appointed  by  act  of  Parliament  in 
1757,  and  the  act  states  its  powers  thus:  "To  open  an  avenue 
from  His  Majesty's  Royal  Palace  to  Essex  Bridge,"  and 
certain  persons  were  appointed  by  name  to  act  as  "Commis- 
sioners to  make  a  wide  and  convenient  street  from  Essex 


then  to  summon  a  jury  to  inquire  into  the  value,  and  assess 
the  purchase  money,  for  which  the  Commissioners  were  to 
give  judgment  conclusive,  and,  on  paying  the  sum  awarded, 
the  premises  were  to  be  conveyed  to  them  to  build  the  street 
and  sell  and  demise  the  surplus. 

By  subsequent  act  the  Commissioners'  powers  were  en- 
larged to  other  great  plans  of  public  utility.  The  funds  by 
which  the  Commissioners  were  enabled  to  carry  on  their 
works  were  obtained  by  grants  of  money  from  Parliament 
and  the  imposition  of  a  tax  of  one  shilling  per  ton  upon  all 
coal  imported  into  Dublin,  and  also  a  sum  for  card-license 
and  membership  of  all  clubs. 

When  the  Commissioners  proceeded  to  exercise  their  powers 
they  met  with  considerable  opposition,  as  it  is  an  Irishman's 
privilege  to  be  "agin  the  Government,"  so  it  is  recorded  that 
"  when  the  bargains  for  the  Houses  were  concluded  the  in- 
"  habitants  refused  to  quit  the  premises,  alleging  they  had 
"  si.x  months  to  remain,  and  prepared  bills  of  injunction 
"  against  the  Commissioners.  A  host  of  slaters  and  laborers 
"  with  ladders  was  secretly  prepared  on  the  night  before  the 
"  day  on  which  the  injunctions  were  to  be  filed,  who  pro- 
"  ceeded  in  the  first  light  of  the  morning  to  strip  the  roofs, 
"  and  in  a  short  time  left  the  houses  open  to  the  sky.  The 
"  terrified  inhabitants  bolted  from  their  beds  into  the  streets, 
"  under  an  impression  that  the  city  was  attacked,  of  which 
"  there  was  some  rumor,  as  it  was  a  time  of  war.  On  learning 
"  the  cause,  they  changed  their  bills  of  injunction  into  bills  of 
"  indictment,'"  which  apparently  were  of  no  eft'ect.  for  the 
record  continues,  "but  the  Commissioners  proceeded  without 
"  further  impediment."  As  far  as  I  can  find  out.  the  works 
carried  out  by  these  Commissioners  amounted  to  over  £750.- 
000,  and  if  to  this  we  add  the  cost  of  the  quay  walls  (which 
were  the  work  of  the  Port  and  Dock  Boards),  the  Circular 
Roads  and  the  various  buildings,  public  and  private,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  many  million  pounds  of  money  were  spent  in 
building- work  during  the  fifty  or  sixty  years  of  activity,  and 
it  is  little  wonder  if  Dublin  assumed  a  prosperous  air  and  ap- 
peared, as  it  was  in  reality,  a  metropolis.    It  is  interesting  to 


'The  brick  fronts  are  now  coated  with  plaster,  pebble-dashed,  the  plastering  being  now  more  or  less  in  disrepair. 


GEORGIAX  ARCHITECTURE  Z.V  DUBLIN. 


loq 


note  that  in  spite  of  the  great  changes  and  improvements  buildings;    a  purely  brick  style,   with  gables  of  brick   and 

taking  place  in  what  may  be  called  the  new.  or  outer,  Dublin  lirick   strings,   and.    later   the    introduction    of    stone    strings 

of  that  day.  how  little  the  old  city  changed,  and  so  remains  and   blocking-courses.      In    Sweeney's    Lane    there    exists    a 

to  this  day.     It  is  still  the  most  wretched  and  congested  part  group    of    three    houses    the    date    of    which    is    carved    in 

of  the  city,  and  neglect  and  decay  are   the  only  agents  at  a  brick   panel   on   the   gable   as    1721,   which,   although   in   a 

work  removing  the  old  houses.     In  a  few  years  there  will  be  dilapidated   condition,   is   one   of   our   best   examples   of   the 


Weaver  Hall  in  the  Coomfje.i 


Houses  in  Sweeney's  Lane.^ 


left  few,  if  any.  of  the  picturesque  old  houses,  which  are  so 
agreeable  to  behold,  mainly  for  the  artistic  pleasure  thev  give. 

The  efforts  of  the  Government  of  that  day  did  not  end 
with  simply  widening  streets.  Philanthropy  had  its  share 
of  their  patronage.  They  supported  private  benevolence  in 
founding  hospitals  and  other  similar  institutions,  and  nianv 
of  these  hospitals,  as  Sir  Patrick  Dunn's.  Mercers',  the  Ro- 
tunda and  the  Coombc  remain  practicallv  the  same  to  this 
day  ;  others  have  been  removed  to  other  sites,  but  still  we 
must  credit  the  Georgian  period  with  the  founding  of  nearly 
all  our  charitable  institutions. 

As  for  the  architecture  of  the  period,  there  is  ,1  noticeable 


earlier  style,  and  its  moulded  brick  courses  can  still  be  ciearlv 
traced.  In  Chambers  Street  and  Weavers'  Square  and 
several  other  streets  there  are  still  many  of  these  earlier 
houses,  but  the  mnnlilings  have  gone,  and  only  the  lines 
remain. 

In  the  Weavers'  Hall,  in  the  Coombe  House,  in  Ward's 
Hill  and  the  old  Deanery,  we  have  examples  of  the  begin- 
ning of  the  later  types,  with  the  introduction  of  the  stone 
blocking-courses  and  moulded  stone  window-sills,  and  in 
these  houses  we  find  greater  attention  paid  to  the  hall  and 
>taircase :  the  walls  are  panelled  in  wood,  the  staircase  is 
w  ider.  the  l)alusters  are  more  elaborate  and  better  turned,  the 


The  Rotunda  Bospital.-     ^1751.] 

change  in  treatment  from  the  earlier  Georgian  to  the  middle 
and  later  period.  I  might  almost  .say  that  the  advent  of  tlie 
"Wide  Street  Commissioner"  was  the  starting-ixiint  for 
reverting  to  the  Italian  and  Classic  methods.  Previous  to 
this  there  is  a  strongly  marked  Dutch   feeling  about  all  the 


'The  original  cornice  and  pediment  has  been  replaced  by  a  brick 
parapet.    The  central  niche  contains  a  statue  of  George  II. 

'See  also  Plate  42,  Part  V'lII.  This  view  shows  not  only  the 
main  building  designed  by  Cassels.  but  also  the  Rntiinda  itself  dc- 


Kin^'s  Inns.    [1776.]    James  Gantlun.  Architect. 

cartouche  brackets  arc  frecpiently  carved,  newel-posts  dis- 
appear, and  we  have  continuous  handrails  with  large  scroll- 
endings  ,01(1  curtail-steps.  I'ireplaces  receive  more  attention, 
and  in  every  detail  it  is  evident  that  money  was  becoming 
more  plentiful,  bringing  with  it  the  usual  results. 

signed  by  Ensor,  originally  built  for  and  still  used  as  an  assembly- 
hall  and  concert-room  to  increase  the  revenues  of  the  Hospital. 

"These  houses,  of  the  early  Georgian  Period,  bear  in  the  gable 
the  date  1721. 


110 


THE  GEORGIAN   PERIOD. 


One  of  the  causes  of  decay  in  these  earher  houses  is  the 
defective  make  of  the  bricks  of  which  they  were  built.  I 
don't  know  where  they  were  made,  as  I  can  find  in  old  his- 
tories no  mention  of  Dublin  brick-fields,  but  I  know  that  the 
stock  bricks  of  which  ^lerrion  Square  and  many  other  like 
houses  are  built  were  made  from  clay  taken  from  the  fields  of 
Merrion  :  there  were  also  brick-fields  near  Sutton,  and.  judg- 
ing from  some  bricks  which  I  have  seen,  and  which  were 
known  to  have  been  made  there,  I  should  say  that  the  facing- 
bricks  of  the  earlier  houses  came  from  them.  The  few- 
moulded  bricks  used  were.  I  think,  imported,  as  those  exist- 
ing bear  evidence  of  being  made  of  a  more  sandy  clay  than 
we  have  in  Ireland. 

The  great  charm  of  the  earlier  work  is  its  simplicity,  and 
even  now.   in   its  pictures(|ue  state   of  old  age  and  decay,   it 


Library  and  Picture  Gallery.  Tyrone  House,  for  the  Earl 
of  Tyrone,  in  Marlborough  Street,  is  another  of  his  works: 
it  is  now  in  use  as  the  Central  National  School  of  Dublin. 
Several  Houses  in  Henrietta  Street  are  also  of  his  design. 

Thomas  Cooley  was  in  his  early  youth  a  carpenter,  but  by 
study  he  became  proficient  in  design,  and,  entering  the  com- 
petition, he  was  awarded  first  premium  for  the  new  Royal 
lixchange,-  Dublin  (now  the  City  Hall).  His  other  important 
works  are  Tower  Armagh  Cathedral,  Newgate  Prison,  Dub- 
lin, and  several  other  prisons  and  court-houses  and  the  Four 
Courts,  Dublin. 

James  Gandon  first  Ijegan  liis  architectural  career  as  an 
assistant  to  Sir  William  Chambers,  and  afterwards  became  his 
pupil.  He  commenced  practice  in  London,  and  his  first  es- 
say in  Dublin  was  in  the  competition  for  the  Royal  Exchange, 


The  Four  Courts,  Dublin,  Ireland.'    Thomas  Cooley,  Architect.     [1776-86.] 


still  has  valuable  lessons  for  the  architectural  student  who 
cares  to  study  them. 

But  in  the  middle  and  later  period  we  find  a  totally  dif- 
ferent type  of  work:  ambition  to  excel  is  the  key-note.  The 
public  buildings  are  ambitious,  without  doubt,  but  fortunately 
the  men  who  designed  them  were  capable,  and  the  result 
is  satisfactory.  The  group  of  architects,  or,  rather,  the  best 
of  them,  who  practised  in  Dublin  deserve  to  be  known,  and 
I  give  their  names:  J.  Smith,  Cassels,  Thomas  Cooley, 
James  Gandon,  Sir  William  Chambers,  Sproule.  Ensor,  F. 
Johnston,  Wilkins,  Murray. 

Cassels  was  a  German.  His  greatest  work  in  Dublin  w'as 
Leicester  House,  built  for  the  Duke  of  Leicester.  It  is  now 
the  headquarters  of  the  Royal  Dublin  .Society,  and  is  the 
centre  of  a  grouj)  of  buildings  forming  the  National  Museum 


in  which  he  was  placed  second  to  Cooley.  .Vftcrwards  he 
came  to  Dublin  and  was  connnissioned  to  design  the  Custom- 
house. L^pon  the  death  of  Cooley,  he  finished  the  Four 
Courts  and  he  also  designed  the  original  Carlisle  Bridge,  the 
King's  Inns  and  a  portion  of  the  Bank  of  Ireland.  He  was 
a  cultured  man  and  a  very  capable  etcher.  He  cvidentlv 
modelled  his  work  upon  that  of  his  master.  Sir  William 
Chambers,  whose  work  his  much  resembles  in  its  graceful- 
ness and  pleasant  grouping.  He  was  a  man  of  passionate 
impulse,  and  it  is  recorded  of  him  that  during  a  ])eriod  of 
absence  a  portion  of  the  Custom-house  had  been  erected  that 
did  not  please  him,  so  he  collected  a  body  of  laborers  and 
marched  them  to  the  work  in  the  early  morning  and  pulled 
the  offending  work  down  before  the  contractors'  men  arrived. 
Sir  William  Chambers  designed  the  greater  part  of  Trinity 


'This  building  was  designed  by  Thomas  Cooley  but  was  finished 
by  James  Gandon.  The  central  portion  was  intended  to  set  back, 
but  lack  of  space  forced  it  forward,  to  the  injury  of  the  effect  of 
the  group. 


"This  building  (Plate  48).  now  the  City-hall,  but  originally  the 
Exchange,  erected  in  1796  by  a  company  of  merchants,  was  won 
in  competition  by  Thomas  Cooley  and  formed  his  introduction  to 
Dulilin  practice. 


GEOKGIAX  ARCHITECTURE  IX  DUBLIN. 


Ill 


College,  Charleniont  House  (now  the  Register  Office),  Aid- 
borough  House  (now  the  Army  Service  Stores),  and  several 
other  residences.  It  is  not  certain  if  Sir  William  Chambers 
ever  was  in  Dublin,  and  it  is  believed  that  the  supervision 
of  his  work  was  entrusted  to  some  of  his  best  pupils,  as  two 
of  them  remained  here  and  practised  as  architects.  Sproule 
was  one  of  them.  His  principal  work  consisted  of  at  least 
half  of  the  houses  in  Merrion  Square. 

Francis  Johnston  was  born  in  Ireland  and  began  prac- 
tice in  Armagh  in  1786,  afterwards  practising  in  Dublin.  He 
was  a  man  of  great  skill  and  refinement  and  designed  the 
Castle  Chapel.  St.  George's  Church,  the  General  Post-office 
and  part  of  the  Bank  of  Ireland.  He  bought  the  ground 
upon  which  the  Royal  Hibernian  .\cadeniy  of  Arts  stands, 
erected  the  present  building  and  picture-galleries  and  partly 
endowed  it  at  a  total  cost  to  himself  of  £14,000. 

Wilkins  was  a  graduate  of  Cambridge  University  and  was 
introduced  to  Dublin  as  the  architect  for  the  Xelson  Monu- 
ment in  Sackville  Street. 

Murrav  was  a  Dublin  man  and  liis  unly  known  puljlic 
l)uilding  is  the  College  of  .'^urgeons^  in  St.  Stephen's  Green. 


The  blacksmiths  of  the  period  were  excellent  craftsmen, 
and  around  many  of  the  private  houses  of  the  time  there 
still  exist  some  charming  lamp-irons,  both  standard  and 
arched,  and  also  square  pedestals  of  iron  with  scroll  fillings 
at  the  ends  and  corners  of  the  forecourt  railings.' 

The  general  character  of  the  private  houses  was  that  of  a 
brick  box,  with  square  holes  for  windows.  The  quaintness  of 
the  early  period  seems  to  have  been  ignored,  and  architect- 
ural effort  is  exhausted  in  the  entrance,  which  has  all  the 
character  of  the  period.  Internally  the  houses  arc  remark- 
able for  the  elegance  and  refinement  of  their  detail.  Some 
wise  and  knowing  men  imported  from  Italy  a  band  of  clever 
workmen  who  were  also  artists  :  these  men  embellished  the 
ceilings  of  hundreds  of  houses  with  the  most  delightful  de- 
signs in  plaster  work,  most  of  it  modelled  in  situ;  but  it  is 
only  in  a  few  that  it  remains  to-day,  showing  its  delicate 
modelling  still  unclogged  by  the  distemper  of  the  inevitable 
whitewasher.  These  men  were  very  cunning  in  the  design- 
ing and  working  of  marble  chimneypieces  and  in  the  in- 
laying of  them  with  colored  marbles:  one  of  llio  band, 
named  "Bossi,"  was  especially  so,  and.  as  the   secret  of  his 


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OM  Parliament  House,  now  Bank  of  Ireland  .- 


It  is  curious  to  note  tiial  ino>t  of  tlu-  public  buildings 
erected  by  architects  who  received  their  early  training  in 
Kngland  have  their  dressed  stonework  executed  in  Portland- 
stone— an  excellent  white  freestone  from  the  Portland  stone- 
(|uarries  in  the  south  of  England, — to  the  exclusion  of  the 
splendid  materials  which  are  to  be  had  in  the  neighborhond 
of  Dublin.  1  mean  the  granite  of  the  Dublin  hills  and  the 
blue  limestone  obtainable  in  the  north  of  tlie  County. 
Probably,  until  the  advent  of  these  architects,  stone-masons 
were  neither  plentiful  nor  skilful,  and  therefore  builders  had 
to  import  men  from  England  who  w(nil<l  only  be  accustomed 
to  the  softer  building-stones  in  use  there  and  could  not  work 
the  harder  granite  and  the  still  harder  blue  limestone.  But 
finally,  during  the  later  (ieorgian  period,  we  find  granite 
freely  used  for  columns  and  capitals  and  moulded  work  of  the 
finest  kind. 

'This  bi-ildiuK'  (Plate  -I4)  was  designer!  liy  .Murray,  whose  son 
and  granilsnii— the  l.itter  still  living— have  practised  architecture 
in  Dublin. 

The  Old  Parliament  House,  now  the  Bank  of  Ireland,  was 
erected  at  three  ditferent  epochs  ;  tlir  central  portion,  attributeil 
to  Tassel  Init  real   :uithor  iniknown.   w.is  built   first.     The   portico 


work  died  with  him,  anyone  possessing  a  mantelpiece  of 
his  work  has  a  work  of  art  which  can  be  sold  at  any  time 
for  several  hundreds  of  pounds,  so  nutcli  prized  are  they. 
I  am  sorry  to  say  that  the  monetary  needs  of  many  of  the 
property-owners  of  Dublin  and  also  their  apathy  in  matters 
of  art  has  led  many  of  them  to  denude  their  houses  of  many 
of  these  art-trea.sures  and  .sell  them  to  the  many  eager 
buyers  from  other  countries.  P.ut  1  am  glad  to  notice  that 
the  Govermnent  have  intervened  in  several  instances  and 
purchased  them  for  the  National  Museum,  .so  that  although 
they  do  not  adorn  their  original  positions  they  remain  with 
us,  and  can  be  admired  and  studied. 

The  joinerv  of  these  houses  is  also  of  excellent  work- 
manship: its  design  is  "on  all  fours  with"  the  work  of  the 
period,  the  mouldings  have  numerous  small  members,  and  in 
the  best   houses  all  the  principal  doors  are  of  mahogany,  a 


on  the  right  was  the  entrance  to  the  House  of  Lords  and  that 
liortion  of  the  buiUling  was  designed  1)y  Gandon.      I'he  remainder 
(if  the  building,  by  Johnston,  the  architect  of  the  General   Post 
office,   was  built  after  the  Union.     I'olcy's   statue  of  Grattan   in 
front  faces  Trinitv  College. 
'Plates  4.:;  and  \7.  Part  VIII. 


112 


THE   GEORGIAN   PERIOD. 


wood  which  at  that  period  was  new,  very  expensive,  and 
consequently  just  the  material  for  the  ostentatious  display 
of  wealth. 

In  looking  over  some  of  the  old  Dublin  newspapers  of 
the  period,  one  comes  across  some  curious  and  interesting 
paragraphs,  as,  for  example,  the  following  advertisement  in 
the  Dublin  Chronicle.  1787: — 

CURIOUS    LOCKS.    PATENT    WATER-CLOSETS.    ETC.,    AT    .\0.    62 
CAPEL   STREET.   DUBLIN. 

Robert  Mallet  respectively  acquaints  the  Nobility,  Gentry 
and  .Airchitects  and  others  that  he  is  the  only  manufac- 
turer in  this  Kingdom  of  the  following  articles,  viz,  i. 
Patent  locks  for  doors,  cabinets,  etc.,  on  a  principle  en- 
tirely new  without  wlieels  or  wards  and  so  perfectly 
secure  as  to  defy  the  utmost  efforts  of  art  and  ingenuity 
to  open  them.  II,  PateiU  water-closets  whicli  act  with 
valves  and  may  be  fixed  in  bedrooms,  drcssmg-rooins,  or 
any  otiicr  part  of  the  house  without  being  in  the  least 
incommodious  or  offensive.  III.  Sundry  hydrostatical 
luachines  for  raising  water  from  any  depth  and  carrying 
it  to  any  given  height  to  supply  houses,  extinguish  fires, 
etc.,  also  a  fliglit  machine  for  escaping  from  fire  from  a 
window  or  wall  or  any  height;  any  number  of  persons 
may  descend  in  the  securest  manner  by  the  same  ma- 
chine. 

We  of  the  present  day  are  very  well  accustomed  to  strikes 
and  combinations  of  workmen,  but  from  the  following  ex- 
tract from  the  Dtiblin  Chronicle  of  1787  it  would  appear  to 
be  nothing  new : — 

"Our  working  artisans,  too  much  prone  to  combination  and  out- 
rage, have  uniformly  set  their  faces  against  every  improvement 
or  extension  of  their  respective  branches.  At  present  the  calico- 
printers  without  a  shadow  of  reason  or  justice  are  proceeding  to 
the  most  unwarrantable  lengths.  The  cause  which  tlicy  assign  for 
their  illegal  conduct  is  an  aggravation  of  their  guilt. 

"They  allege  that  it  is  contrary  to  the  established  rules  of  their 
business  to  increase  the  number  of  hands  and  therefore  will  not 
permit  a  single  apprentice  to  be  taken  beyond  the  number  they 
think  proper," 

and  later  the  same  paper  says : — 

"There  arc  at  this  time  thirteen  houses  in  tliis  city  where  the 
workmg  people  of  the  different  branches  asseml)le  at  different 
stated  periods,  in  order  to  support  the  pernicious  cause  of  com- 


bination. It  would  perhaps  be  a  very  judicious  and  prudent 
measure  to  withdraw  the  license  for  selling  malt  and  spirituous 
liquors  from  every  publican  against  whom  it  could  be  proved  that 
he  or  she  harboured  such  dlegal  meetings,  or,  as  they  are  termed, 
committees,  in  his  or  her  place.  These  men  who  are  chosen  by 
the  aggregate  body  of  the  working  people  of  each  branch  are 
for  the  most  part  artful  and  designing  fellows  who  levy  contribu 
tion  on  the  rest  and  live  in  a  state  of  idleness  and  dissipation 
themselves.  Then  to  promote  a  spirit  of  combination  and  to  enjov 
the  plunder  of  the  deluded  persons  whom  they  both  dupe  of  their 
money  and  lead  into  acts  highly  injurious  to  themselves  and  the 
trading  interests  of  the  Kingdom.    .    .    ." 


These  extracts  show  that  even  at  that  time  there  was  the 
same  kind  of  strife  going  on  between  capital  and  labor  as  in 
the  present  day,  but  it  also  shows  that  there  must  have  been 
considerable  commercial  activity,  since,  as  we  know  in  our 
time,  it  is  in  times  of  trade  activity  that  we  suffer  most  from 
these  disturbances 

It  is  a  fact  that  the  master-ininds  in  control  at  this  period 
were  very  active  in  promoting  every  possible  enterprise  that 
would  advance  the  trade  and  commerce  of  the  country,  and 
inducements  were  held  out  to  induce  skilled  workmen  to 
migrate  to  Dublin,  to  work  and  instruct  the  people  in  various 
new  trades  and  industries,  and  prizes  were  frequently  offered 
for  designs  in  textile  fabrics.  So  for  many  years  there  was 
great  prosperity,  and,  as  appears  by  the  trade  reports  of  the 
time,  there  was  a  steadily  growing  business  in  exporting 
manufactured  goods:  even  to  this  day  the  old  silver-plate 
manufactured  in  Dublin  during  the  Georgian  period  is  eagerly 
sought  after  by  collectors  and  museums,  and  frequently  real- 
izes as  much  as  forty  shillings  per  ounce. 

.Mtogether,  Dubliners  can  look  back  with  pride  to  the 
(Georgian  period.  Its  governors  managed  their  business  so 
well  that  they  created  a  new  and  truly  metropolitan  city 
which  attracted  to  its  centre  a  brilliant  crowd  of  the  most 
clever  men  in  the  Kingdoin.  who  were  satisfied  to  remain  here 
and  work  for  its  good,  and  the  citizens  of  Dublin  of  that 
day  could  say,  as  did  the  men  of  an  older  city,  that  they  were 
citizens  of  "no  mean  city." 

Thomas  E.  Hudmax,  M.R.I. I. 


Mr.  Hudman  also  fumi.;nes  the  following  notes  reiatipK   to  some  of  the  build- 
ings not  soecifically  mentione'l  m  the  toregoing  paper  — Kn 

Casino  at  Clontark  CPlate  42). — This  little  building,  de- 
signed by  Sir  William  Chambers,  stands  in  the  grounds  of  Lord 
Charlemont's  place,  Clontarf.  It  is  extremely  fine  in  detail,  but 
has  been  allowed  to  fall  intd  disrepair.  I.nrd  rharleninnt's  house 
is  now  used  as  a  conveiu. 

Blck-coat  School,  177,^  (Plate  44). —  riii>  liuiidmg  has  never 
been    finished,    as    the    guardians    were    extravagant    and    squan- 


dered their  funds.    Efforts  are  now  being  made  to  have  the  tower 

finished  under  the  charge  of  Sir  Thomas  Drew  after  the  original 
drawings. 

View   from   Cork  Hill   (Plate  46).— In  the  background  rises 
the  "Bedford  Tower"  in  the  Upper  Castle  Yard;  on  the  left  is  a 
portion  of  the  City-hall,  while  at  the  right  is  Lord  Essex's  house, 
now  used  as  municipal  offices  and  still  containing  some  fine  plas 
ter-work  and  handsome  mahogany  doors. 


n 


The    Georgian    Period^ 

JVlea^urea        Drawing  J* 


59 


of 


BY 


FRANK    E.    WALLIS  DAVID    A.    GREGG 

CLAUDE   FAYETTE   BRAGDON  E.   ELDON  DEANE  PIERRE   G.   GULBRANSON 

GEORGE   C.   TOLMAN  WALTER   CAMPBELL  JOHN   C.    HALDEN 

GEORGE   CLARENCE   GARDNER  GLENN    BROWN 

AND  OTHERS 


AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

<r 

BUILDING  NEWU" 

CO. 

1898 


Copyright,  1S9S,  iiv  the 

AmF.UICAN    AKCHITEf    T    AND     llUlI.DING    NEWS    Co. 


TABLE   OF    CONTENTS. 


Plate     I. 

2. 

"        3- 

4- 

"        5- 
6. 

"        7- 
8. 

"        9- 

lO. 

II. 

12. 

"  13- 
"       H- 

"  15- 
1 6. 

"       17. 

"  18. 
19. 
20. 

21. 

22. 
"      23. 

"  24. 
•'       25. 

26. 

27. 
"      28. 

29. 

"  30- 
"  31- 
"      32. 

"      33- 


Front  Porch  of  the  Culver  Homestead,  Brighton,  Monroe  Co.,  N.  Y., 

{Gelatine  Pmnt). 

Royall  Mansion,  Medford,  Mass.     Date  1737. 

South  and  West  Elevations. 

Details  of  East  Elevation. 

Details  of  West  Elevation. 

"  "  "  "  Front  Doorway. 

Pulpit  in  the  Old  Meeting  House,  Sandown,  N.  H.     Date  1774. 

Entrance  to      "  "  "  "  "     "  "         " 

Details  from  Gadsby's  Tavern,  Alexandria,  Va.     Date  1793. 

Details  from  the  Cathcart  [now   Blackford]    House,   Fairfax,   Co.,  Ya. 
Date  1800-10. 

Yan  Rensselaer  Manor  House,  Albany,  N.  Y.     Date  1790. 

Doorway  of  the  Old  Custom  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H. 

Mantel  in  the  Forrester  House,  Salem,  Mass.     Date  1780. 

Mantel  in  the  Working  Woman's  Bureau,  Salem,  Mass.     Date    iSoo. 

King's  Chapel,  Boston,  Mass.     Date  1749.     Details  of  Pulpit. 

Miscellaneous  Details. 

Bay  of  Nave. 

Pulpit  and  Reading-Desk. 

Seventh-Day    Baptist    Church,    Newport,    R.    I.     Pulpit    and    Details. 
Date  1729. 

Porter   House,   Hadley,   Mass.     Date   17 13. —  Josiah    Dwight    House, 
Springfield,  Mass.     Date  1764. 

Details  of  the  Porter  House,  Hadley,  Mass.     Date   17 13. 

Hazard  House,  Newport,  R.  I.      Front  D>)or  and  Details.      Date  (about) 
1 740. 

Hazard  House,  Newport,  R.  I.     Details  in  the  Parlor. 

Fairbanks  House,  Dedham,  Mass.     Date   1636. 

"  "  "  "  Details  and  Furniture. 

Staircase  in  the  Lee  House,  Marblehead,  Mass. 

Seton  House,  E  Street,  Washington,  D.  C.     Date  1S21. 

Details. 

Old  Piano.     Date  1775. 

Old  Furniture. 

Mantel  in  the  Hargous  House,  Pittsford,  N.  Y. ;   Mantel  in  the  Ayrault 
House,  Gencseo,  N.  Y. 

Office  of  the  Holland  Purchase,  Batavia,  N.  Y.     Date  1798.     Entrance 
to  Cory  House,  Batavia,  N.  Y. 


The    Georgian    Period 

jVIea^urea        Drawingj* 

of 

C    O   L    O  yN     1    A    L 


WORK 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

BY 

DAVID  A.  GREGG  E.  ELDON  DEANE 

WALTER  CAMPBELL  JOHN  C.  HALDEN  JAMES  ROSS  FRANCIS  S.  SWALES 

W.  ALEXANDER  J.  F.  CULVERWELL  C.  R.  McNEIL 

AND  OTHERS 


^ 


'■^. 


■^. 


PART 
II 


^"B-^^   ^^ 


fa 


AMERICAN      ARCHIXECT 

<r 

BUILDING  NEWJ" 

CO. 


Copyright.   1898,  by  thi-: 
American  Architect  and  Building  Xews  Co 


ARKHILL     4.     CO.,     (OSTON,      U.     5.    A. 
PRINTERS 


ate 

1 

2 

3. 

4, 

5. 

6, 

7. 

8. 

9 

TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

Jonathan  Childs  House,  Rochester,  N.  Y.     Detail  of  Cornice.     Date 
1800.  [(rdatinc  Print.] 

Isaac    Hills    House,    Rochester,    N.   Y.      Porch   and    Details.       Date 
1820-4. 

Entrance  and  Details. 
I     "         "  "  "  '*  Dining-room  Mantel. 

( Mumford  House,  "  "  Bedroom  Mantels. 

Bicknell  House,  "  "  Parlor  and  Kitchen  Mantels. 

Jonathan  Childs  House,     "  "  Side  Porch. 

[(iclatinc  Priiil.] 

Thompson  House,  Charlestown,  Mass.     Doorway.     Date  (about)  1800. 

Parlor  Mantel. 
Arnold  Homestead,  "  "         Doorway.     Date  1814. 

10.  Tower  and  Doorway  of  North  Church  [Date  1815],  and  Tower  of  First 

Church,  New  Haven,  Conn. 

11.  Williams  [L.overing?]    House,    1234  Washington    St.,    Boston.      Front 

Porch.     Date  1808. 

[(nialiiic  Print.] 

12.  WilHams  House,  1234  Washington  St.,  Boston.     Details  of  Front  Porch. 

[On  the  site  of  the  "("ireen  Stores"  of  Revohilicmary  clays] 

13.  Williams  House,  1234  Washington  St.,  Boston.     Side-door. 

14.  "  "  '*  "  "  "  Parlor  Details. 

15.  "  "  "  "  "  "  Stair-landing  Window. 

16.  "  "  "  "  "  "  Miscellaneous  Details. 

17.  "  "  "  "  "  "  Wooden  Cornices. 

18.  Isaac  Cook  House,  Brookline,  Mass.     Date  1798.     Mantel. 

[Cclatinc  Print.] 

[Xiiw  iiecui)ieil  by  James  I..   Little,  Ksq.] 

19.  Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va.     Date  1767. 

[The  eliiireh  in  wliicli  deorg^-  Washiiii^tmi  worshipiied.] 

20.  Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va.     Window  Detail. 

21.  "  "  "  "        Pulpit. 

22.  "  "  "  "        Pulpit  Details. 

23.  Isaac  Cook  House,  Brookline,  Mass.     Dale  1798.     Library  Door. 

[(j'elatiitc  Print.] 

24.  Philipse  Manor-house,  Yonkers,N.Y.    East  Front,  etc.    Date  1683-1745. 

[The  southern  portiiin  of  tliis  house  was  built  l>y  Frederiek  Phili|>se.  "tirst  lord  of  tlie  manor," 

;i  carjienler  liv  trade,  the  remaining  jiortions  were  added  by  his  grandson, 

of  the  s.inie  n.inie.  the  third  "lord  of  the  manor,"  in   1  74.vl 

25.  Philipse  Manor-house,  Yonkers,N.Y.  Drawing-room  Details.   Date  1745. 

26.  "  "  "  "  "      Dining-room  Details.     Date  1745. 

27.  "  "  "  "  "      Guest-chamber  Details. 


4( 


Plate  28.     Philipse  Manor-house,  Yonkers,  N.  Y.     Staircase  Details.     Date  1745. 
-     29.  "  "  "  "  "         Sundry  Details. 

"     30.     City  Hall,  New  York,  N.  \.     View  in  Rotunda.     Date  1803-12. 

[Gelatine  Print.] 

"     31.     Faneuil  Hall,  Boston,  Mass.     l^ast  Front  and  Plans.     Date  1741. 

[As  altt-red  by  Cliarles  Bultincli,  Architect. 1 

''32.  "  "       Boston,  Mass.     Cross-sections. 

"     33.  "'         "  ''  "         Longitudinal  Section. 

"     34.     City  Hall,  New  York,  N.  Y.     South  Front.     Date  1803-12. 

[joliii  Mct'omli,  Arcliitect] 

*'     35.         "       "         "         "       N.  Y.     Central  Rays. 

"     36.         "       "         "         "  "         Section,  and  Southwest  Pavilion. 

[After  measured  drawings  l)y  E.  J.  Moeller.  Mortimer  O.  Fi>\  and  ntlier  students 
in  tlie  Architectural  Department  of  fohmiliia  L'niversity.[ 

"     37.         "     Hall,  New  York,  N.  Y.     Rotunda  Stairs. 

[Gelatine  Print.] 

"     38.     Old  House  on  the  Buffalo  Road,  Gates,  N.  Y.     Mantels. 
"     39.        "    Glass-work,  Baltimore,  Md.     Fan-lights. 

"     41.        "  "  "  "        Head  and  Side  lights. 

"     42.     Christ  Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     Date  1727-54. 

[Dr.  John  Kearsley.  Architect] 

"     43.  "  "         Philadelphia,  Pa.     Side  Elevation  and  Plan. 

"     44.  "  "  "  "       Cross-sections. 

"     45.  "  ''  "  "        Longitudinal  Section. 

[After  measured  ilra\vinj;s  l>y  Arthur  T.  SutclilTe  and  William  Reimer. 
students  in  the  School  of  Architectural  Drawing  of  the  Drexel  Institute,  Philadelphia,  Pa.] 

"     46.     Old  State  House,  Boston,  Mass.     Date  1748. 

"     47.        "        "  "  *'  "         Main  Staircase. 

48.  City  Hall,  New  York,  N.  Y.     Door  in  Vestibule. 

[Gelatine  Print.] 

49.  BelHngham-Cary  House,  Chelsea,  Mass.     Parlor  Details.    Date  (about) 
1750. 

[This  house  was  built  as  a  shooting-lodge  aliout   17.^0,  on  the  farm  once  owneil  by  Governor 
Bellingham,  at  the  time  when  (Chelsea  was  still  Winnisimmet.] 

50.  BelHngham-Cary  House,  Chelsea,  Mass.     Sitting-room  Details. 

51.  "  "  "  "  "  Staircase. 

52.  "  "  "  "  "  "         Details,  etc. 

53.  Norton  House,  Goshen,  Conn.      Date  (about)  1806. 

54.  "  "  "  "  Front  Porch,  etc. 

55.  '  *  <t  u  Dining-room  Door. 

56.  "  "  ♦'  "  Parlor  Mantel. 


T^be    Georgian    Period 

JN/lea^^u  re  d         Drawingj* 

of 

C    O    L    O   vN 


*» 


BY 
CHARLES    L.    HILLMAN  FRANK   E.    WALLIS 

E.    ELDON    DEANE 
CLAUDE  FAYETTE    BRAGDON  DAVID  A.   GREGG 

FRANCIS   S.    SWALES  GLENN    BROWN 

AND   OTHERS 


"AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

BUILDING  NEWJ" 

CO. 

1899 


C()rvKii;iir,   iSc/;,  Tiv    thk 
AmKKICAN    AKC'illTKCr    AM)    Hi  II.IIINC,    Nkws    Co. 


(( 

?• 

a 

8. 

it 

9 

n 

lO. 

<( 

1 1. 

TABLE     OF     CONTENTS. 


Plate     I.      Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa.    Central  Pavilion.   Date  1796. 

2.  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     Southern  Front.     "1755-96. 

[The  general  plan  of  this  entire  building  and  the  design  and  erection  of  the  east  wing  are  believed  to 
be  due  to  Samuel  Khoads,  a  wealthy  builder,  later  inayor  of  the  city.  As  the  central  building  and 
west  wing  were  built  in  1796,  twelve  years  after  Rhoads's  death,  it  is  probable  that  their  exterior 
treatment  is  due  to  another,  but  unknown  hand.] 

3.  Pennsylvania  Hospital.   E.  Front.   Date  1755;  West  Front.   Date  1796. 

4.  Pennsylvania   Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     View  from  the  Southeast. 

[  Gelatine    r?-i/if.^ 

5.  Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa.      Measured  Details. 

6.  St.  James's  Goosecreek  Church,  near  Charleston,  S.  C.     [Date   i8th 

Century];  Old   Stone   House,  Richmond,  Va      [The  oldest  build- 
ing^  in  Richmond.] 

Colonial  Fan,  Head  and  Side  Lights. 

Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     View  from  the  South. 

[C-l.iliiu-    Print.] 

The  Folger  House,  Geneva,  N.  Y. 

Colonial  Doorway,  Liberty  Street,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  Ratcliffeboro',  Charleston,  S.  C.     [Date  1819];  The 
Monumental  Church,  Richmond,  Va.     Date  181 2. 

(The  Monumental  Church  was  erected  in  memory  of  seventy-two  persons  killed  by  the  burning  of  the 
theatre,  Dec.  z(i,  iSi  i.      Xn  urn  before  the  portico  is  supposed  to  contain  the  ashes  of  the  victims.] 

12.  Mantel  in  the  Parlor  of  the  Tayloe  ["Octagon"]  House,  Washington, 
D.  C.     Date  18 10. 

(The  mantels  in  this  house,  designed  by  Dr.  W'ni.  Thointon  for  Colonel  Tayloe.  will  probably  become 
well  known  to  architects,  since  tiiey  are  to  be  found  in  the  '"  Octagon  Iltmse"  where  the  Anrerican 
Institute  of  Architects  ha.s  recently  established  its  head<piarters,| 

I  (/VA;////,-    J'riii/.\ 

13.  Mantel  in  the  Office  of  the  Essex  House,  Salem,  Mass.  Date  1801. 

14.  "  "  "         "        Nichols   House,  Salem,  Mass.     Date   1801. 

15.  "  "  "         "  "  "       Details  of  the  same. 

16.  Mantel  in  a  Bedroom  of  the  Tayloe  ["Octagon"]  House,  Washington, 
D.  C.  Date  18 10. 

\(iL-!afin,     J'rnit.\ 

17.  Measured  Details  of  the  same. 

18.  Mantel  in  the  Carlyle  Mansion,  Alexandria,  Va.  Date  1752. 

19.  "  "         Waitt  Place,  Barnstable,  Mass.  Date  1717. 

20.  The  Morris  House,  South  8th  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  Date  1787. 

[Ccliitiiu-    /'iiitt.\ 

21.  The  Morris  House,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     Elevation  and  Detail  of  Stairs. 

(L'nder  the  impression  that  this  was  the  house  of  the  Revolutionary  financier,  Robert  Morris,  this  view- 
was  taken.  l)ut  it  was  later  found  that  the  Morris  family,  still  inhabiting  the  building,  antedate  even 
the  Revolutionary  notable. 

The  second  story  in'  arrangement  essentially  rei)eats  llie  first  Hoor  here  shown.  It  is  C|uestionable 
whether  the  "'bayed"  end  of  the  parlor  is  jjart  of  the  original  arrangeitient,  although  there  is  no  sign 
that  the  brickwc'irk  has  ever  been  disturbed  —  the  doubt  is  occasioned  by  the  indication  of  Creek 
feeling  in  the  visible  fragment  of  the  cornice  of  this  part.] 


Plate  22. 


The  Morris  House,  South  8th  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     Doorway,  etc. 


Porch  at  East  kno  oi-Hali. 


23- 


The  Morris  House.     Chimneypiece  in  the  Parlor. 


"      24.     The  Tudor  Place,  (jeorgetown,  D.  C. 


Date  17  [?]-)8i6. 


[Gc'/iif/'/ie    Priiit^ 


[The  wings  of  this  house,  earlier  than  the  main  building,  are  supposed  to  date  from  the  end  of   the 
eighteenth  century.     The  main  i  i portion  of    the  building  was  designed   by 


Dr.  Wm.  Thornton  and  was  built  for  Thomas   I'eter  in  1816.     The  house  is  now  occupied  by  his 
daughter,  Mrs.  B.  W.  Kennon,  who  added  the  kitchen  on  the  e.xtreme  left.] 

25.     The    Sacket    House,    Date    1803,    and    Woolsey    House,    Date    1805. 
Sacket's  Harbor,  N.  Y. 

"      26.     Doorways  and  Details  of  the  same. 

"      27.     Porch  of  the  General   Page  House,  Bausch  and   Freemason  Streets, 
Norfolk,  Va. 

[Gelatine    Print.] 

"   28-9.  Front  Entrance  and  Details  of  the  Greig  Mansion,  Canandaigua,  N.  Y. 

"      30.  Houses  at  Providence,  R.  I. 

"      31.  Carpenters'  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  Date  1770-5. 

32.  Carpenters'  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa.      North  Entrance. 

[This  building  was  erected  for  its  own  use  by  the  Society  of  Carpenters  and  was  in  use  by  the  Society 
when,  as  the  most  convenient    and  suitable  hall,  it  was   taken  possession   of  by    the  Continential 


Congress    who    assembled    here 

scene   of    the    sittings    of   the 

at   one  time   occupied   by 

of    time  and   as    tenant 

disrepair    and    finally 

room.     Tater,  when 

for  the  beginnings 

came  ])otent,  the 

penters    care- 

the  building 

serves     as 

of     his- 

muse- 


Sept.  5,   1774.     Later     it  was    the 

rro\incial     Asseniblv     and    was 

British     troops.       In    course 

followed  tenant  it  fell  into 

it    became    an     auction 

the    patriotic     regard 

of  the     nation    be- 

Society    of    Car- 

fuUy      restored 

and    it    now 

a  species 

torical 

uni.] 


One  of  two  Hicli  Chairs  used  at  the  session 
of  the  First  Continental  Congress. 


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BY 
FRANK  E.  WALLIS  E.  ELDON  DEANE 

CLAUDE    FAYETTE    BRAGUON 

CHARLES  L.   HILLMAN  JOHN  C.  HALDEN 

FRANK  A.  HAYS  LUDVIG  S.   IP^EN 

AND     orilKRS 


.•^«> 


•si^^v 


PART     I 

a     IV     M 


AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 


CopvRiGHT,  1902,  hy  the 
American  Architkct  and  Building  Nkws  Co. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


Plate     I.     Wrought-iron  Newels  and  Railings,  Varick  St.,  New  York,  N.  Y. 

\_Gelati/ie  Fri/tt.] 

**        2.     Gate  Posts,  Salem,  Mass. 

"        3.     Details   from  the  Whipple  House,  the  Armory  and   Essex  Museum, 
Salem,  Mass. 

**        4.     Doorway  of  the   Lefferts   Homestead,  Flatbush  Ave.,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 
-     '  [  Date,  about  1750.] 

\Gelatine  PrintJ] 

-        5.     Front  Window  of  the  Philips  House,  Salem,  Mass.    [Date,  about  1800.] 
*         6.     Mantels  in  the  Pingre  House,  Salem,  Mass. 

7.  Mantel  in  Superintendent's  Room :  Erasmus  Hall,  Flatbush  Avenue, 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  [Date,  1787.] 

\Gelatine  Frint?^ 

8.  Hamilton  Hall  and  Details  of  Custom-House,  Salem,  Mass, 

9.  House  of  John  Bartram,  Grey's  Ferry,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     [Date,  1730.] 
'•       10.     St.  Paul's  Chapel,  Broadway,  New  York,  N.  Y.  [Date,  1764-94.] 

\Gelatine  Frint.'] 

"       II.     St.  Paul's  Chapel,  Longtitudinal  Section  and  Details. 
'•       12.  "  "         Cross  Section  and  Details. 

"       13.  "  "         Interior,  Looking  East. 

^Gelatine  Frint ?^ 

"       14.     Interior  of  the  Old  South  Church,  Boston,  Mass.  [Date,  1729.] 

15      Roof  Truss  of     " 
16.     St.  John's  Chapel,  Varick  St.,  New  York,  N.  Y.  [Date,  1S03-6.] 

\Gelatitie  Frint. ^ 

"       17.     Ttic  First  Church  |  "  (^Id  Ship"]  etc.,  Hingham,  Mass.        [Date,  1681.] 
"       18.     The  Cloisters  ["Saal"|,  Fphrata,  Pa.  [Date,  1744.) 


Plate    19.     The  Taylor  House,  Roxbury,  Mass.  [Date,  about  1790.] 

\Gelatine  Print.'\ 

20.        "  "  "  "  "         Details. 

"       21.     Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa.:  South  Door.         [Date,  1729-34.] 
"      22.  "  "     Before  and  after  Restoration. 

\Ge!atine  Print l\ 

"      23.  **  "     Main  Hallway  and  Details. 

"       24.  **  "     Staircase  Hall. 


25- 


"  "     North  Front  and  Tower. 

\Gelatine  Pi-i7it?\ 


26.  *'  "     State  Supreme  Court  Chamber. 

27.  " 


«         II 


"       28.     Mantels  in  House  on  So.  Third  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

\Gelatine  Prini.'\ 

"       29.     Independence  Hall,  Philadelphia,  Pa.:   Declaration  Chamber. 

"       30.      Mount  Pleasant  Mansion,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [Date,  1761.] 

"      31.     Interior  of  Christ  Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [Date,  about  1727.J 

\Gelatine  Print ^ 

"      32.     Mount  Pleasant  Mansion,  Philadelphia,  Pa. :    The  Central  Feature. 

"       33.  "  "  "  Pavilions  and  Details. 

"       34.     Cupolas:   Pennsylvania  Hospital,  Philadelphia,   Pa.        [Date,  1755-96.] 

[Gdaiiue  Pri/ii.] 

"      35.      Mount  Pleasant  Mansion,  Philadelphia,  Pa. :  East  and  West  Doorways. 
"      36.  "  "  "  ••  "      Parlor  Details. 


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Fbe    Georgian    Period 

bein^ 

JVlea^ured        Drawingj- 

of 


99 


F.  J.  KIDD 


FRANCIS   S.  SWALES 


BY 


CLAUDE    FAYETTE    BKAGDON 


CHARLES    L.   HILLMAN 


J.  F.  STROBEL,  Jr. 


SAMUEL    R.  IJE  LONG 


AMERICAN      ARCHITECT 

BUILDING  NEWJ" 

C  O. 

1900 


Coi'VKKiirr,   1900.  iiv  thk 
Amkrican  Ahchitkct  and  Huildixc.  Nkws  Co. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 

Plate      I.     First  Congregational  Church,  Canandaigua,  N.  Y.  [Date,  i8i2.| 

2.  House  and  Doorway,  Main  St.,  Canandaigua,  N.  Y. 

« 

3.  St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church,  Third  and  Pine  St.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [1758-61.] 

\_Gelatine  Prii!f.~\ 

"         4.     Ontario  County  Jail,  Canandaigua,   N.  Y. :    Mantel  in  Granger  Place 
School. 

"         5.     Ayrault  House  and  Door  of  Wadsworth  House,  Geneseo,  N.  Y. 

6.     Interior  of  St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     [Date,  1758-61.] 

\_Gelatinc  Print. '\ 

"  7.  Front  Entrance  of  the  Court-House,  Geneseo,  N.  Y. 

"  8.  Mantels  from  the  Culver  Homestead,  Bricjhton,  N.  Y. 

"  9.  Details  from  the  Tillman  House,  Geneva,  N.  Y. 

"  10.  Archway  in  Camp  Mansion,  Sackett's  Harbor,  N.  Y. 

"  II.  Gloria  Dei,  or  the  Old  Swedes' Church,  Philadelphia,  Pa.     |Date,  1700.] 

[Gelatine  /'rint.~\ 

12.     Details  of  ■' Gloria  Dei,"  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [Date,  1700.] 

"       13.     Two  Mantelpieces  at  Ovid,  N.  Y. 
"       14.     The  Mappa  House  |now  owned  by  W.  S.  Wicks,  Esq.],  Trenton,  N.  Y. 

[Gelatine  /'i-int.'\ 

"       15.     A  Doorway  at  Greece,  N.  Y. 

"       16.     The  Mappa  House,  Trenton,  N.  V. :   Parlor  Doorway.     [Date,  1809-12.] 

"       17.        "  "  "  "  "  "  "  and  Front  Door. 

[Gelatine  J^rint.~\ 

"       18.     The  Mappa  House,  Trenton,  X.  Y. :    Front  Door  and  Details. 

19.        "  "  "  "  "         Dining-room  and  Library  Mantels. 


20 


[Gelatine  Print.^^ 


21.  The     Mappa     House,    Trenton,    X.    V.:     Chamber    and    Sitting-room 

Mantels. 

22.  "  "  "  "  "  Hall  and  Stair  Details. 


TEXT. 


Colonial   Work  in  the  Genesee  Valley  * 

By  Claude   Fayette   Bragdon  ....  1-7 

Colonial   Work  at  Sackett's   Harbor* 

By  Claude   Fayette   Bragdon  .....         7-9 

The  Mappa  House,  Trenton,   N.  Y. 

By  W.  S.  Wicks lo-n 

Two  Old  Philadelphia  Churches:   St.  Peter's  P.  E.  Church  and  "Gloria  Dei"       12 

Old  Colonial  Work  of  Virginia  and   Maryland  * 

By  A.   Burnley   Bibb       .......      13-16 

*  Revised  and  reprinted  from  the  /?  mericn^i  A  rchitect. 


ft 


TTbe    Georgian    Period 

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J.  C.  1-IALDEN 
C.  L.  HILLMAN 

S.  R.  De  long 

l:.  w.  donn,  jr. 


BY 


A.  B.  BIBB 


F.  S.  SWALES 

E.  P.  MORRILL 
E.  E.  DEANE 

T.  F.  LAIST 


AND  OTHERS 


.^•^ 


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A    VI     M 


"AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

BUILDING  NEWJ" 

CO. 

1900 


COPVRIC.HT,     1900,     HY    TUK 

Amkricax   Architi-xt   and  Blildixc,   Xicws  Co. 


PARKHILL     A.     CO..     BOSTON,     U,     S,     » 
PRINTERS 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

Plate     1.     The  Upsal  and  Chew  Houses,  Germantown,  Pa. 

[Th(-se  houses  practically  face  one  another  (jn  the  main  street.  The  Upsal 
(Johnson)  house  dates  1798-1802.  The  Chew  House,  or  "Cliveden," 
is  older,  as  it  sheltered  British  troops  during  one  of  the  Revolutionary 
battles.] 

2.  Mantel  in  the  Upsal  Mansion,  Germantown,  Pa.  [1798-1802.] 

3.  Mantels    "  ''  "  "  "  [1798-1802.] 

[Gelatine  Print.] 

4.  Woodford  Mansion,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [Date,  1763] 

5.  "  "         Details. 

6.  "I'uckahoe,"  Goochland  Co.,  \  a. 

7.  Mantel  in  House  in  Fairmont  Park,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

8.  Mantel  in  Wister  Mansion,  Germantown,  Pa. 

9.  Staircase  Details,  ''Tuckahoe,"  Goochland  C-o.,  Pa. 

10.  "Solitude,"  House  of  John  Penn,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [Date,  1884.] 

11.  Details  of  "Solitude." 

12.  House  of  Barton  Myers,  Esq.,  Norfolk,  Va.  [Early  18th  Cent.] 

{(ielatiiie  I'riitt.] 

13.  Mantels  in  Sharrett's  House,  Baltimore,  Md. 

14.  Mantels  in  House  on  Baltimore  Street,  Baltimore,  Md. 
\5.      Entrance  Hall:    House  of  Barton  Myers,  Esq.,  Norfolk,  V'a. 

[(7c/i!ti}ie  I'riitt.] 

16.      Library  Mantel:    House  of  Barton  Myers,  Esq.,  Norfolk,  Va. 

1/.      Parlor 

18.        "  Chimney-piece  " 

[fieliitine  Print.] 


H  (4  t  I  ii, 


a  a  (I  (( 


Plate  19.  Memories  of  a  Trip  to  Norfolk. 

"  20.  "Woodlavvn,"  \'a.     Dr.  Wm.  Thornton,  Architect.          [Date,  1799.] 

"  21.  Typical  Norfolk  Porches. 

"  22.  "Woodlawn,"  Va.     Details  of  Entrance. 

''  23.               "                  "             "        "  Wings. 

"  24.                "                   "             "        "  Stairs,  etc. 

"  25.               "                  "        Wood  Mantel  in  N.  E.  Room. 

"  26.               "                  "             "            "        "  S.  E.  Room. 

"  27.  "Shirley  Mansion,"  on  the  James  River,  Va. 

[Gelatine  Print.] 

"  28.  "Baltimore  House,"  Riverdale,  Md. 

"  29.               "               "                 "             "     Staircase  Details. 

"  30.              "               "                "             "     Cornice  Details. 

"  31.               ''               "                 "             "     Details  of  "Glass  Parlor." 

"  32.  Details  from  the  Parlor,  Shirley,  Va. 

"  33.  "Mount  Vernon,"  Va.     The  Mansion.                                 [Date,  1743.] 

"  34.            "              "           "       Details. 

"  35.            "              "            "       Plan  of  the  Home  Grounds. 

"  36.  "Gunston  Hall:"   Drawing-room  Door.                               [Date,  1758.] 

37.  "Claymont  Court."     (A  proposed  renovation.) 


TEXT. 

Old  Colonial  Work  of  Virginia  and  Maryland  [Concluded.]  .         .  17-54 

By  A.  Burnley  Bibb. 

Some  Homes  of  the  Washington  Family 54 

By  Mrs.  Sally  Nelson  Robins. 


w 


The    Georgian    Period" 

iVlea^urea        Drawingj' 

of 

AJ     1     A    L 


BY 

SUNDRY  PUPILS  OF  THE  ARCHITECTURAL  DEPARTMENT 

OF  THE   MASSACHUSETTS   INSTITUTE  OF 

TECHNOLOGY 

DURING   THE  SUMMER  SCHOOLS  OF    1894-95 


#       PART 


l^\        VII       .W 


'AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

<r 

BUILDING  NEWJ" 

CO. 

1900 


Copyright,   1900,  by  the 
Amkkican  Architect  and  Building  Xkws  Co. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

Plate    1.     The  Paca  House,  Annapolis,  Md.  [Date,  about  1780.] 

[Gelatine  Print.] 

'  2.  Newel-post  and  Balusters,  No.  125  Derby  Street,  Salem,  Mass. 

'  3.  Hall  and  Staircase, 

'  4.  The  Marx  House,  Annapolis,  Md. — ''Rosewell,"  Whitcmarsh,  Va. 

'  5.  Newel-post  and  Balusters:   Hubon  House,  Salem,  Mass. 


'       6. 


/. 


r   Staircase: 

(    Staircase:    Brooks  House. 


(<  << 


i<  << 


r    rhe  John  Derby  House,  Derby  Street,  Salem,  Mass. 

I    The  Joseph  C.abot  House,  Salem,  Mass.  [Date,  1810.] 


'       8.      Newel-post  and  Balusters:  Joseph  C^abot  House,  Salem,  Mass.     " 
'       9.     Main  Stairway  and  Mantels,     " 


(<         <« 


'     10. 


j    The  Nichols  House,   Federal  Street,  Salem,  Mass.       [Date,  1801.] 
I    I'he  Hodges  House,  l^ssex  Street,  "  "  [Date,  1800.] 


'      11.      Newel-post  and  Balusters:  Hodges  House,  "  "  [Date,  1800.] 

'     12.      Front  Porch,  etc.:   Oliver  House,  "  "  [Date,  1802.] 


'     13. 


f    The  George  Peabody  House,  "  "  [Date,  1818.] 

I    The  Saftord  [Andrew]    House,  "  "  [Date,  1818.] 


'  14.  Mantelpieces,  etc.:   Oliver  House,  "  "  [Date,  1802.] 

'  15.  I'he  Forrester  House,  "  "  [Date,  1780.] 

'  16.  The  Emerton  [Pickman]  House,  "  "  [Date,  1820.] 

'  17.  Front  i^orch:   Shreve  House, 


Plate  18.      Entrance  Porch,  No.  129  Essex  Street,  Salem,  Mass. 

{     Some  Salem,  Mass.,  Doorways:  20  Turner  St.;  Corner  Oliver  St.  and 
19. 

^         Washington  Square;  theOsgood  House;  the  "Pineapple  House." 

20.  Mantelpieces  at  No.  12  Elm  St.  and  No.  14  Pickman  St.,  Salem,  Mass. 

21.  Mantelpieces  in  Danversport,  Mass. 


99 


I     Wooden  Porches,  Salem,  Mass.:   Gov.  Endicott's  House;   81  Essex 
^         Street;   Mrs.  Bov^doin's  House;  the  Nichols  House. 

23.  Mantelpiece  in  the  Haven  House,  Portsmouth,  N.  H.      [Date,  1800.] 

24.  Hall  and  Stairway:   the  Ladd  House,       "  "         [Date,  1764.] 

(     Salem,  Mass.,  Porches:  Wood  on  Brick:  10  Chestnut  St.;  the  Lord 

95        J 

i         House;  129  Essex  St.;  the  Safford  [Andrew]  House.  [Date,  1818.] 

26.     The  West  Church,  Cambridge  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 

(     Two  Wooden  Porches,  Salem,  Mass.:    The  Ward  House;    The 
27. 

I         Stearns  House. 

28.  Front  and  East  Elevations:   West  Church,  Boston,  Mass. 

(     The  Waller  House,  St.  Peter's  Street,  Salem,  Mass.     [Date,  1684.] 

29.  _ 

(      The  Marie  Goodhue  House,  Danvers,  Mass. 

30.  The  Dummer  House,  Bifield,  Mass. 
The  Jeffrey  Lang  House,  Salem,  Mass.  [Date,  1740.] 


31. 

The  Bertram  House  for  Aged  Men,  Salem,  Mass. 

32.  Illustrations  from  Asher  Benjamin's  ^''Country  Builders'  Assistant.'''' 

33.  The  South  Church,  Salem,  Mass.  [Date,  1806.] 


*e 


The    Georgian    Period 


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# 


PART 

4    VIII   m 


AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

BUILDING  NE>A<^J** 

CO. 

1901 


Copyright,   1901     by  the 
American   Architect   and  Building  News  Co 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

Plate  1.     Porch  of  the  Judge  Walker  House,  Lenox,  Mass.  [1804] 

"  2.     Doorway  and  Staircase:   Winslow  House,  Plymouth,  Mass.         [1755] 

"  3.*  Characteristic  English  Doorways. 

"  4.     Old  Deal  Doorway  now  in  South  Kensington  Museum. 

"  5.*   Fireplace  Finish:   Mantels  at  Great  Wigsell  and  South  Molton,  Eng. 

"  6.     Doorway  to  Fairfax  House,  Putney,  Eng. 

"  7.*  The  Vicarage,  Hailsham,  and  a  House  in  SaHsbury  Close. 

"  8.     Eighteenth-century  Door-heads,  Exeter,  Eng. 

"  9.*  Gate  Piers,  Hampstead  Marshall,  Eng. 

"  10.     Eighteenth-century  Door-heads,  Exeter,  Eng. 

"  11.*   Benham,  Berks,  Eng.  [1775] 

"  12.     Details  of  River  Front:   Hampton  Court  Palace. 

"  13.*   An  ?]nglish  Lake  House. 

"  14.     The  Manor  House,  Wandsworth,  Eng. 

"  15.*   Entrance  Screen,  Syon  House,  Middlesex,  and    All  Saints'  Church, 
Northampton,  Eng. 

"  16.     Plan  and  Stair  Details:   Wandsworth  Manor. 

"  17.*    Heraldic  Carvings. 

"  18.     North  l^ntrance  Doorway:  Wandsworth  Manor. 

"  19.*  Town-halls  at  Abingdon,  Rye  and  South  Molton,  and  Council  Chamber, 
Chichester,  Eng. 

"  20.     Guildhall,  Guildford,  Surrey,  Eng. 

"  21.*   Town-halls  at  Witney  and  High  Wycombe,  Eng. 

"  22.     Trinity  Ground  Almshouse,  London,  Eng. 

"  23.*  College  of  Matrons,  in  the  Close,  Salisbury,  Eng. 

"  24.     Gate-house:    Irinity  Almshouse,  Deptford,  Eng.  [1670] 

"  25.*  The  Bridge,  Newbury,  Berks,  Eng. 

"  26.     Staircase  Hall,  No.  12  Devonshire  Sq.,  London,  Eng. 

*'  27.*  Iron  Gates,  St.  Giles,  Oxford,  and  in  Salisbury  Close. 

"  28.     A  House  in  the  Close,  Sahsbury,  Eng. 

"  29.*  Iron  Gates  at  Burford  and  h-vesham,  Eng. 

*I"roin  ne.i,';i lives  made  fs|)cvially  tor  this  |nililicalion  liy  Mr.  Galswcirthy  Davie. 


Plate  30.  I'he  Garden  House:   Clements  Inn,  London. 

"  31.*  Tombs  and  Gravestones,  Witney,  Oxon,  Kng.  [1711-1769] 

"  32.  West  Front:  St.  Mary-le-Strand,  London,  Eng. 

"  33.  St.  Mary-le-Strand,  London,  Kng.  [1714-23] 

"  34.  Tower  and  Plan:  St.  Mary-le-Strand,  London,  Eng. 

"  35.*  Tombs  at  Witney  and  Fairford,  Eng.  [1728-1760] 

"  36.  Old  Fireplaces  (No.  l),  Dighton  St.,  Bristol,  Eng. 

"  37.  Christ  Church,  Newgate,  London,  Eng.  [1686-87] 

"  38.  Old  Fireplaces  (No.  2),  Dighton  St.,  Bristol,  Eng. 

"  39.  Christ  Church,  Spitalfields,  London,  Eng.  [1715] 

""  40.  Interior,  looking  East:   Christ  Church,  Spitalfields,  London.       [1715] 

"  41.  Dublin  Doorways. 

"  42.  Rotunda  Hospital,  Dublin  [1751],  and  the  Casino,  Clontarf,  Ireland. 

"  43.  Later  Georgian  Doorways,  Dublin,  Ireland. 

"  44.  Blue-coat  School  [1773],  and  the  College  of  Surgeons,  Dublin,  Ireland. 

"  45.  Georgian  Lamp-standards,  Dublin,  Ireland. 

"  46.  Clock-tower  Dublin  Castle,  and  Cork  Hill,  Dublin,  Ireland. 

''  47.  Georgian  Ironwork  in  Dublin,  Ireland. 

"  48.  City  Hall  [1796],  and  Trinity  College,  Dublin,  Ireland. 


TEXT. 

The  Georgian  Houses  of  New  England.  Pages  81-86 

Robert  S.  Peahody,  t.A.I.A. 

Georgian  Door-heads  in.  London.  "      87-90 

Owen  Fleming,  A.R.I.B.A. 

The  Architecture  of  the  I^ighteenth  Century  in  England.  "    91-104 

Paul  Waterhouse,  F.R.I.B.A. 

A  Triad  of  Georgian  Churches  in  London.  "  104-106 

Georgian  Architecture  in  Dublin.  "  107-112 

Thomas  E.  Hudman,  M.R.I. I. 


*I''roiTi  negatives  made  especially  for  this  i)ublication  by  Mr.  Galsworthy  D-ivie. 


ft 


IThe    Georgian    Period 

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d      D, 


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C    O   L    O   vN     1     A    L 


P'RANK   K.  WaIJ>1S 

C  .  Bkrtram  Frfach 

E.  P.  MORRILI. 


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and   others 


E.  Eldon  Drank 
Thko.  H.  Skinner 
C.  M.  BiJj. 


•4^5       IX      M 


"AMERICAN      ARCHnrECT 

BUILDING  NEVVJ" 

CO. 

1902 


copyrujiit.    1902,   uv   thk 
Amkkican   Architkct   ano   Huilding   News  Co. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

Plate    1.  Entrance  Porch:   Starkweather  House,  Pawtucket,  R.  I. 

2.  Cottage,  Battle,  Sussex,  England. 

2.  House  near  Goudhurst,  Kent,  England. 

3.  Sketches  at  Economy,  O. 

4.  'IVinity,  "Old  Swedes,"  Church,  Wilmington,  Del.  [1698] 

5.  Interior  of  Trinity,  ''Old  Swedes,"  Church,  Wilmington,  Del.    [1698] 

6.  University  of  Virginia:     The  Rotunda.     Thomas  Jefferson,  Architect. 

7.  "  ''         "  Plan  and  Professors'  Houses. 

8.  "Monticello,"  near  Charlottesville,  Va.     Thomas  Jefferson,  Architect. 

9.  "  West  Elevation. 

10.  "  East  and  North  Elevations. 

11.  "  Mr.  Jefferson's  Private  Apartments. 

12.  ''Stenton":   The  Home  of  James  Logan,  near  Philadelphia.        [1728] 

13.  Thomas  Cowles  House,  Farmington,  Conn. 

14.  "  "  "  "  "       Entrance  Gateway. 

15.  "  "  "  "  "      Mantels. 

16.  King  Manor  House,  Jamaica,  L.  I.  [1750-1805] 

17.  Front  Entrance  of  the  James  L.  Cowles  F^ouse,  Farmington,  Conn. 

18.  Park  Street  Church,  Boston,  Mass.    Peter  Banner,  Architect.         [1809] 

19.  I'rinity  C-hurch,  Newport,  R.  i. 

20.  "  "  "  "      Pulpit  Details. 

21.  "  "  "  "      Gallery  Details. 

22.  ''  *'  "  "      Beadle's  Pew. 

23.  Presbyterian  Church,  Newark,  N.  J.  [1744] 
23.  Trinitv  Church,  Newark,  N.  J.  [1805] 


Plate  24.  A  Fayette  Street  Mansion,  Baltimore,  Md.:   Mahogany  Door. 

25.  "  "  "  "  ''       Parlor  Details. 

26.  Sleepy  Hollow  Church,  Tarrytown,  N.  Y.  [168-] 

27.  Twin  Entrances:   No.  117  George  Street,  Providence,  R.  1. 

28.  Doorways  on  Mill  and  Mary  Streets,  Newport,  R.  I. 

29.  Front  Door  of  the  Watson  House,  Newport,  R.  I. 

30.  Doorways  on  William  Street  and  Wanton  Avenue,  Newport,  R.  I. 

31.  Doorway  No.  27  Church  Street,  Newport,  R.  1. 

32.  Tayloe  (Octagon)  House,  Washington,  D.  C:   Front  Door.        [1810] 

33.  Doorway  at  Clarkson,  N.  Y.  [1822] 

34.  Doorway  to  the  C^lark  House,  Caledonia,  N.  Y. 

35.  Two  Philadelphia  Doorways. 


TEXT. 

The  Relation  of  Georgian  Architecture  to  Carpentry,"  Pages    1-11 

By  Paul  Watkrhouse,  F.R.I.B.A. 

Seventeenth-century  Houses.  "      11-13 

Dutch  and  German  Eighteenth-century  Work.  '*      14-24 

The  University  of  Virginia.  "      25-27 

By  I'hkodork  H.  Skinner. 
The  Cape  Fear  River  District,  N.  (-.  *'  28 

By  James  Eastus  Price. 


IllustraU'ii  witli  ]ih(iti)oni|jlis  l}y  W.  Cai.sworthv  Davik. 


w 


The   Georgian    Period 


n 


M 


d      Di 


eajurea        lyrawingj* 

of 


E.    ELDON    DEANE 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


BY 


C.    M.    HILL 


E.    P.    MORRILL 


AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

BUIl-DING  NEWiy" 

CO. 

1902 


Copyright,  1902,  by  the 
American  Architect  and  Building  Np:\vs  Co. 


S.    J.     PARKHILL    &    CO..     BOSTON.     U.S.A. 
pniNTER^ 


TABLE   OF    CONTENTS. 


Plate     I. 


3- 

4- 

5- 
6. 

7- 
8. 

9- 

lO. 

1 1. 

12. 

13- 

14. 

15- 
16. 

17- 

18. 

19. 

20. 
21. 

22. 

23- 

24. 

25- 

26. 

27. 


The  Picture-paper  Parlor:  "  Friendfield,"  near  Georgetown,  S.  C. 
Gates    and    Entrance  to  the  George   Edmondson   House,  Legare  St., 
Charleston,  S.  C. 

The  Edmondson  Gates,  Legare  St.,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

(  The  De  Saussure  House,  South  Battery,  Charleston,  S.  C.  [Abt.  1830] 

(Gates  and  Servants'  Quarters:   De  Saussure  House. 

A  Typical  Charleston  House:  The  Johnston  House. 

The  Holmes   House  and  Carriage  Gateway,  East  Battery,  Charleston, 
S.  C.  [1818-22] 

Miscellaneous  Wrought  Ironwork,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

"Belvedere"    Farmhouse    [Now    the   Country  Club],    on   the  Cooper 
River,  near  Charleston  S.  C.  [1810] 

Parlor  Mantelpiece:  "Belvedere"  Farmhouse. 
Parlor  Doorway:  "Belvedere"  Farmhouse,  on  the  Cooper  River,  S.  C. 
The  Nathaniel  Hey  ward  House,  East  Bay  St.,  Charleston,  S.  C.  [1750] 
The  Nathaniel  Heyward  House  and  Entrance  Gate. 
The  Nathaniel  Russell  House  and  Entrance,  Charleston,  S.  C.     [1785] 
Mantel  in  the  Thomas  Ball  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

!The  Gibbes  [Drayton]  House,  Charleston,  S.  C.  ^      [1752] 

The  Augustine  Smythe  House  (recently  altered). 
Parlor  Cornice  in  the  Thomas  Ball  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

iThe  Ancrum  House,  Meeting  and  Charlotte  Sts.,  Charleston.    [1820] 
The  Witte  House,  Rutledge  Ave.,  Charleston,  S.  C.  [iSio] 

Drawing-room  Wall:  Judge  Heyward's  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 
The  Bull-Pringle  [Miles  Brewton]  House,  Charleston,  S.  C.  [1765J 

"         "  House:  The  Drawing-room. 

11  <<  II  11  II  i< 

"  "  "         Drawing-room  Mantel. 

"  "  "  "       Details. 

Rear  View. 
"         "  "         Doorway  to  Drawing-room. 

"  "  "  Section  through  the  Hall. 

Section  through  Staircase. 

(  A  Typical  Charleston  House. 

)   "         "  "  Veranda  [Dr.  Bemis's]. 


Plate   28. 


29. 


^o. 


32- 


34- 

35- 
36. 

37- 

3<^. 

39- 
40. 


Veranda  [Dr.  Bemis's]  Details,  Charleston,  S.  C,  [1730] 

(  The  De  Saussure  Gateway,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

\  The  Simonton   Gateway,  "  " 

The   Simonton   Gateway,  Legare  St.,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Flynn's  Presbyterian  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C.  ■  [181 1] 

The  Lillybridge  House,  Perry  St.  and  Albert  Sq.,  Charleston,  S.  C. 
The  Lowndes  [Waggoner]  House  (Lately  used  as  the  Woman's  Building 
of  the  Charleston  Exposition). 

j  Mantel  in  the  Old  Baptist  Parsonage,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 

I       "         "     "     Haywood  [Lynch]  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

(A  Gateway:  Charleston,  S.  C. 

(Gate-house:   Manigault  Place,  Charleston,  S.  C. 
The  Horry  House,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

(  Doorway  of  St.  Mary's  Male  Academy,  Norfolk,  Va. 

(A  Charleston,  S.  C,  Gateway. 

"  Mulberry  Castle,"  on  the  Cooper  River,  S.  C.  [1714] 

"  Drayton  Hall,"  on  the  Ashley  River,  near  Charleston,  S.  C.      .  [1740] 
Prince  George's  Church,  Georgetown,  S.  C. 


41. 

42. 

43 

44 

45 
46 

47 


(  The  Pyatt  House,  Georgetown,  S.  C. 

"  Prospect  Hill,"  on  the  Waccamaw  River,  near  Georgetown,  S.  C. 
Mantel:  "Prospect  Hill,"  on  the  Waccamaw   River,  Georgetown,  S.  C. 
The  Picture-paper  Room:  "  Friendfield,"  Georgetown,  S.  C. 
Ends  of  the  Picture-paper  Room  :  "  Friendfield,"  Georgetown,  S.  C. 
The  Calhoun  Homestead,  Newnan,  Ga. 
"Concord,"  near  Natchez,  Miss. 


TEXT. 


Charleston,  between  Ashley  and  Cooper 

C.    R.    S.    HORTON 

An  Autumn  Trip  to  Charleston,  South  Carolina 

E.   Eldon   Deane 

Romance  and  the  South  Carolina  Homestead 

Olive  F.  Gunby 
More  Peculiarities  of  Southern  Colonial  Work 


Pages    29-42 


45-53 


54-57 
57-64 


♦e 


T"be    Georgian    Period 

bein^ 


n 


M 


ed         Di 


ea^urea        JLTawingj* 

of 


E.    ELDON    DEANE 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


BY 


C.   M.    BILL 


E.    P.    MORRILL 


AMERICAN     ARCHITECT" 

BUILDING  NEVVJ" 

CO. 

1902 


copyrigh'i',  1902,  by  the 
Amkrican  Architkct  and  Building  News  Co. 


S.     J.     PARKHILL    4.     CO    ,     BOSTON.     U.S.i 
PRINTERS 


TABLE   OF    CONTENTS. 

Plate  I.  House  of  Edward  Jenkins,  Esq.,  Edisto  Island,  S.  C.  [1683] 

"  2.  Front  and  Rear:   House  of  Edw.  Jenkins,  Esq.,  Edisto  Island,  S.  C. 

"  3.  St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C.  [1752-61] 

"  4.  Section  and  Plan  :   St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

"  5.  Interior  of  St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

(  Chancel  Rail:  St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 
"         6       I 

(Outside  Gate:   St.  I'hilip's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

iView  from  St.  Michael's  Porch,  Charleston,  S.  C. 
Gateway  to  St.  Michael's  Churchyard,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

8.  Pulpit:   St.  Michael's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

"         9.  St.  Philip's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C.  [1836-9] 

"       10.  Interior  of  St.  Philip's  Church,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

"       II.  Wamboro  [St.  James's]  Church:   Front  and  Side  Elevations.       [1768] 

12.  "  "  "  Details, 

"       13.  St.  Helena's  Church,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 

"       14.  Gateways  to  St.  Helena's  Churchyard,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 

/Strawberry  Church,  on  the  Cooper  River,  S.  C. 

^^         _       j  St.  Andrew's,  on  the  Ashley  River,  S.  C.  [1706] 

^'      ]  Cainhoy  Church,  near  Charleston,  S.  C.  [i^^Sl 

(St.  Stephen's  Church,  Santee.  [1767] 

"       16.     Christ  Church,  Alexandria,  Va.  [1767] 


I 


/• 


!  Pulpit :   Pompion  Hill  Chapel,  near  Charleston,  S.  C.  [1763] 

Interior:   St.  James's  Church,  Goose  Creek,    S.  C.  [171^] 


Plate   1 8.     North  Front:  "El  Dorado,"  South  Santee  River,  S.  C. 

(  South  Front:  "  El  Dorado,"  South  Santee  River,  S.  C. 
^'      I  "  Hampton,"  on  the  South  Santee  River,  S.  C. 

(  The  Arthur  Middleton  Tomb,  "  Middleton  Place,"  Ashley  River,  S.  C. 
(  The  Drayton  Tomb,  "  Magnolia  on  the  Ashley,"  S.  C. 

•*  21.  The  Elliott  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C, 

"  22.  Room  in  the  Beardsley  [Elliott]  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 

"  23.  Staircase  and  Porch  of  the  Fuller  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 

"  24.  Dining-room  Mantelpiece:   Fuller  House,  Beaufort,  S.  C. 

"  25.  Sketches  in  Beaufort,  S.  C. 


TEXT. 

French  Santee,  South  Carolina  Pages    65  71 

C.    R.    S.    HORTON 

Some  Estates  on  the  Ashley  and  Cooper  Rivers,  S.  C.  "        71-73 

Beaufort,  S.  C,  an  Island  Capital  '•        74- 77 

E.   Eldon  Deane 

St.  Michael's  and  St.  Philip's,  Charleston,  S.  C.  "        78-83 

C.    R.    S.    HORTON 

The  De  Saussure  Homestead,  near  Camden,  S.  C.  "        83-84 

Olive  F.  Gunky 

The  Matter  of  Imported  Materials  "        84-88 


ft 


The   Georgian    Period 

being  ^ 

iVlea^urea        Drawing  J* 


n 


of 


# 


PART 


\il 


*    Xll    # 


AMERICAN     ARCHITECT 

5UILD1NG         NEWJ" 
CO. 

1902 


Copyright,    1902,    by   the 
Amkrican    Architect   and   Building   News   Co. 


TABLE   OF    CONTENTS. 


Plate      I.     "Woodlands,"  Front:   HouseofWm.  Hamilton,  Philadelphia,  Pa.  [1770] 

\Gclatiue  Priut?\ 

J,  (The  Josiah  Day  House,  West  Springfield,  Mass.  [i754] 

(  Living-room  in  Cottage  of  John  Adams,  Quincy,  Mass.       [xvii  cent.] 

"  Greenwood,"  near  Thomasville,  Ga. 
A  Tuskegee,  Ala.,  Homestead. 
"  Beauvoir,"  Biloxi,  Miss. 

^  "  Home  Place,"  Parish  of  St.  Charles,  La.  [xviii  cent.] 

^  The  Old  Marmillion  Mansion,  Parish  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  La. 

S  House  of  George  Lorio,  Esq.,  St.  Charles  Parish,  La. 
New  Orleans  Barracks. 


4- 

5- 

6. 

7- 
8. 

9- 
10. 

1 1. 

12. 
13- 

14. 

15- 
16. 

17- 

18. 

19. 

20. 
21. 
22. 


The  Ursuline  Convent,  New  Orleans,  La. 
The  Archbishop's  Palace,  New  Orleans,  La. 
The  Old  Exchange  Building,  Savannah,  Ga. 
Staircase  in  the  Bulloch  House,  Savannah,  Ga. 
"  Edgewood,"  near  Edgefield,  S.  C. 

(  "  Edgewood,"  near  Edgefield,  S.  C. 
/  "  Inglehurst,"  near  Macon,  Ga. 


[1734] 

[1734] 
[xviii  cent.] 

[1818] 
[Abt.  1830] 

[xix  cent.] 


"  Edgewood,"  near  Edgefield,  S.  C. :   Home  of  the  Pickens  Family. 
"  Ashlands,"  near  AL)bile,  Ala. 


"  Monmouth,"  near  Natchez,  Miss. 
"  Dunlieth,"  near  Natchez,  Miss. 


[xviii  cent.] 
[xix  cent. J 


"  Burnside,"  La.,  on  the  Mississippi  River. 

"  Belle  Grove,"  Iberville  Parish,  La.  [xix  cent.] 

"Millford,"  in  the  High  Hills  of  Santee,  S.  C.  [xix  cent.] 

ILeydon  House,  Atlanta,  Ga. 
The  Safford  Homestead,  near  Madison,  Ga. 

("Windy  Hill,"  near  Natchez,  Miss. 

(  House  of  Judge  Reuben  Davis,  Aberdeen,  Miss. 

(  "Arlington,"  Va.,  opposite  Washington,  D.  C.  [1S02] 

i  "Montebclh^"  near  Natchez,  Miss.  [xix  cent. | 

"Montpelicr,"  Orange  Co.,  Va. :   Home  of  James  Madison.    [Abt.  1795] 

("Mount  Airy,"  on  the  Rappahannock,  Va.  [1758] 

)  "Crewe  Hall,"  Malvern  Hill,  Chesterfield  Co.,  Va.  [xviii  cent.] 


Plate 

23 

(< 

24 

It 

25' 

i( 

26. 

11 

27. 

II 

28. 

II 

29. 

II 

^i^ 

33 


44 


"  Mount  Airy,"  the  Home  of  the  Tayloes.  [175S] 

"Westover,"  on  the  James  River,  Va.  [i737| 

"  Kenmore,"  Fredericksburg,  Va.  [17 — ] 

"  The  Drawing-room  ;  —  The  Dining-room. 

"  Oatlands,"  Loudon  Co.,  Va.  [1790] 
"Woodlands  "  :   Rear  View,  Philadelphia,  Pa.                           [Abt.  1770] 

\Gelatine  Print^ 

Details. 

Stable. 

\_Gclatine  Prin(!\ 

31.  Prichett's  House,  Llanerch,  Pa.  [xviii  cent.] 

32.  Doorway,  211  South  17th  Street,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
( "  Rock  Hall,"  Lawrence,  Long  Island,  N.  Y. 
j  The  Apthorpe  House,  New  York,  N.  Y. 

34.  The  Count  Rumford  House,  Woburn,  Mass.  [179c] 

35.  "  "  "  "         Details.  [1790] 
,       (  Doorway  at  Manton,  R.  L 

)  Doorway  on  Benefit  Street,  Providence,  R.  L 
37.     Interior  Views  Brown-Gammell  House,  Providence,  R.  I.  [1786] 

■^Q  II  II  i(  II  II  II  II  (< 

39.  The  Old  Providence  Bank,  Providence,  R.  I. 

40.  The  Old  Senate-Chamber,  Mass.  State-house.  [^79^] 

41.  The  Massachusetts  State-house,  Boston,  Mass.  [''798J 

42.  Parlor  Mantel  in  the  Waterman  House,  Duxbury,  Mass.  [1S03] 
("The  Hermitage,"  on  the  Savannah  River,  Ga.  [1820] 
( The  James  K.  Polk  Mansion,  Nashville^  Tenn. 

("The  Hermitage,"  on  the  Savannah  River,  Ga.  [1820] 

)  "  The  Hermitage,"  Nashville,  Tenn. 

45.  First  Baptist  Church,  Providence,  R.  I.  [^  774-5] 

46.  The  White  House,  Washington,  D.  C.  [1818] 
47.-     The  Capen  House,  Binghamton,  N.  Y.                                                 [1810] 


TEXT. 

Savannah  and  Parts  of  the  Far  South.  Pages    89-99 

C.    R.    S.    HORTON 

"Millford,"  in  the  High  Hills  of  Santee,  S.  C.  "  100-102 

Olive  F.  Gunby 

The  Men  who  designed  the  Old  Colonial  Buildings.  "  102-105 

George  Clarence  Gardner 

The  Greek  Revival  and  Some  Other  Things.  "  106-118 

The  Massachusetts  State-house,  Boston.  "  1 19-124 

Envoi  "  124