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VOLUME I
The Georgian Period
[PARTS I-IV]
Copyright. 1898-1899. bv thb
.^lMEricaN Architect ^jjd Building News Co.
The Georgian Period
A Collection of Papers Dealing with
'^Colonial" or XVIII-Century Architecture
In the United States
Together with References to Earlier Provincial and True Colonial Work
Illustrated with more than 450 Full-Page Plates, Half of which are Measured Drawings, and
Half Perspective Sketches and Photographic Views, Together with Over
500 Miscellaneous Illustrations in the Text.
EDITED BY
WILLIAM ROTCH WARE
Fellow of the Boston Society of Architects
NEW YORK
THE AMERICAN ARCHITECT
1908
JUA
701
'yo
?
i'A
^^^^Aii ^
960040
General Index of Text and Illustrations,
VOLUMES I AND II
Chronology of American Buildings.'
1632
St. Luke's, Smithfield, Va.
1634
Cradock House, Medford, Mass.
•635
Garrison House, Newburyport,
Mass.
House of Seven Gables, Salem,
Mass.
1636
Fairbanks House, Dedham, Mass.
1639
Bull House, Newport, R. I. The
(lov.
Curtis House, Jamaica Plain,
Mass.
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.
1 640 1 660
Minot House, Dorchester, Mass. St. John's Church, Hampton,
Old Stone House, Guilford, Va.
Conn. 1664
1643 Wyckoff House, Flatlands Neck,
Pigeon Cove, Mass. House at. L. I.
1650 1667
Putnam House, Danvers, Mass. Ely Tavern, Springfield, Mass.
The Gen. 1678
1651 Christ Church, Williamsburg,
Pickering House, .Salem, Mass. Va.
i6.
1680
Livezey's House, Philadelphia, Red Horse Inn, Sudbury, Mass.
I'a. 1 68 1
i65[?] Old Ship Church, Hingham,
Whipple House, Ipswich, Mass. Mass.
1683
Philipse Manor House [southern
part], Yonkers, N. Y.
1684
Waller House, Salem, Mass.
1 686
Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass.
1696
Dutch Church, Ilackensack,
N.J.
1700
Court-house, Williamsburg, Va.
Farmington, Conn. Old House at.
Gloria Dei, 01 Old Swedes
Church, Philadelphia, Pa.
Shirley, James River, Va.
1703
St. Peter's Church, New Kent
Co., Va.
1706
Mabee House, Schenectadv,
N. V.
171.1
St. James's Church, Goose Creek,
S. C.
1712
Old Corner Bookstore, Boston,
Mass.
" State-house, Boston, Mass.
1713
Sam'l Porter House, Hadley,
Ma.ss.
171S
Bniton Pari.sh Church, Williams-
burg, Va.
«7>7
Waitt Place, Barnstable, Mass.
1720
Christ Church, Philadelphia, Pa.
Pepperell Mansion, Kittery, Me.
1725
Berkeley, James River, Va.
Rosewell, Whitemarsh, Va.
1727
Christ Church, Philadelphia, I'a.
1729
Independence Hall, I'hiladelphia.
Old South, Boston.
Seventh Day Baptist Church,
Newport, R. I.
•73°
Bartram House, John, Philadel-
phia, Pa.
Pepperell House, Kittery, Me.
1732
Christ Church, I.ancaster ( o.,
Va.
'733
St. Philip's Church, Charleston,
S. C.
•735
Old Swedes Church, Wilmington,
Del.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
737 1755
Carter's Grove, James River, Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadel-
phia, Pa.
Winslow House, Plymouth, Mass.
175,7
Gunston Hall, Va.
1758
St. Peter's P. E. Church, Phila-
delphia, Pa.
1759
Vassall-C raigie-I.o n gf ellow
House.
Va.
Hancock House, Boston, Mass.
Westover, James River, Va.
I73«
Royall House, Medford, Mass.
St. Peter's Church, Philadelphia.
1740
Brice House, Annapolis, Md.
Samuel Colton House, lx>ng-
meadow, Mass.
Lang House, Jeffrey, Salem, 1760
Ma.ss. Blake House, .Springfield, Mass.
Oliver House, Dorchester, Mass. 1761
Verplanck Homestead, Fishkill, Christ Church, Cambridge,
N. V. Mass.
1742-62 Mt. Pleasant Mansion, Fairmont
Faneuil Hall, Boston, Mass. Park, Philadelphia, Pa.
1743 1762
Mount Vernon, Va. Morris House, New York,N. Y.
Philipse Manor House, Yonkers, 1763
N. Y. Woodford House, Philadeli)hia,
State-house, Newport, K. I. Pa.
1744 1764
Cloisters. Ephrata, Pa. Ladd House, Portsmouth, N. H.
McDowell Hall, Annapolis, Md., St. Paul's Chapel, New York,
1745 N. Y.
Holden Chapel, Cambridge, Mass. 1765
Wells House, Cambridge, Mass. Van Rensselaer Mansion, Albany,
1 74V N. V.
King's Chapel, Boston, Mass. 1767
1750 Christ Church, Alexandria, Va.
Bellingham Cary I louse, Chelsea, 1 76S
Ma.ss. Jeremiah Lee House, Marble-
p'irst Church, P'armington, Coini. head, M.iss.
Lefferts Homestead, Brooklyn, 1770
N. Y. Carpenters' Hall, Philadelphia,
Tulip Hill, West River. Md. Pa.
Wentworth House, Little Harbor. C:hase House, Annapolis, Md.
iyr2 Harwood House, Annapolis. Md.
Braddock House, Alexandria, Quincy Mansion, Quincy, Mass.
Va. 1 77 1
Carlvle House, Alexandria, Va. Boston Tea-party House.
Custom-house, Charleston, S. C. 1772
St. Michael's Church, Charleston, State-house, Annapolis, Md.
S. c. Stebbins House, Deerfield, Mass.
1774
Meeting-house, Sandown, N. H.
1780
Forrester House, Salem, Mass.
Paca House, Annapolis, Md.
1 78 1
Elsie Gerretsen House, Brooklyn,
N. Y.
1784
Gov. Langdon House, Ports-
moutli, N. H.
Solitude, Philadelphia, Pa.
Unitarian Church, Roxbury,
Ma.ss.
17S6
Erasmus Hall, Brooklyn, N. Y.
1787
Morris House, I'hiladelphia, Pa.
1790
Brandon, James River, Va.
Deming House, Litchfield, Conn.
Taylor House, Roxbury, Mass.
Van Rensselaer Manor House,
Albany, N. Y.
1 791
Ixjngswamp Reformed Church,
Mertztown, Pa.
1793
(iadsby's Tavern, Alexandria,
Va.
1 798
Cook House, Brookline, Mass.
Isaac.
Hurd House, Charlestown, Mass.
I 799
Octagon House, W ash i n g t o n,
D.C.
" " Woodlawn, Va.
1800
Jonathan Childs House, Roches-
ter, N. Y.
Haven House, Portsmouth,
N.H.
Hodges Hou.se, .Salem, Ma.ss.
Phillips House, Salem, Mass.
Thompson House, Charlestown,
Mass.
' Afentioned in I 'olumes I and II \_Farts I- VIII^
II
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
NINETEENTH CENTURY.
iSoi
Essex House, Salem, Mass.
Nichols House, Salem, Mass.
1S02
Ellicott Hall. Batavia. N. Y.
First Church, West Springfield,
Mass.
Oliver House, Salem, Mass.
1S03
New York City-hall.
Sackett House, Sackett's Harbor,
N. Y.
St. John's Chapel, New York,
N. Y.
1S04
Judge \Valker House, Lenox,
Mass.
1806
Colton House, Agawam, Mass.
Rufus.
1806
South Church, Salem, Mass.
1 80S
Williams House, Boston, Mass.
I Soy
Mappa House, Trenton, N. Y.
1810
Joseph Cabot House, Salem,
Mass.
iSi I
Alexander House, Springfield,
Mass.
1812
Church, Ashfield, Mass.
First Church, Northampton,
Mass.
" Congregational Church,
Canandaigua, N. Y.
Monumental Church, Richmond,
Va.
1813
Court-house, Lenox, Mass.
1814
Arnold House, Charlestown,
Mass.
Church, Lenox, Mass.
Unitarian Church, Trenton,
N. Y.
1815
Old North Church, New Haven,
Conn.
Ontario County Jail, Canan-
daigua, N. Y.
1816
Tudor House, Georgetown,
D. C.
Woolsey I louse, Sackett's
Harbor, N. Y.
1817
University of Virgmia, Char-
lottesville, Va.
1818
Cadet Armory, Salem, Mass.
F'irst Church, Springfield. Mass.
Peabody House, Salem, Mass.
Safford House, Salem, Mass.
1819
St. Paul's Church, Ratcliffe-
boro', S. C.
1820
Isaac Hill's House, Rochester,
N. Y.
Pickman House, Salem, Mass.
1821
Hobart College Building, Geneva,
N. Y.
1826
First Church, Ware, Mass.
Alphabetical Chronological Tabulation.
Alexander House, Springfield,
Mass., 181 1.
Arnold House, Charlestown, Mass.,
1814.
Bartram House, Phila., Pa., 1730.
Bellingham-Cary House, Chelsea,
Mass., 1750.
Berkeley, James River, Va., 1725.
Blake House, Sp'gfield, Mass., 1760.
Boston Tea-party House, 1771.
Braddock House, Alexandria, Va.,
1752.
Brandon, James River, Va., 1790.
Brice House, Annapolis, Md., 1740.
Bruton Parish Church, Williams-
burg, Va., 1715.
Bull House, Newport, R. L, 1639.
Cabot House, Salem, Ma.ss,, 1810.
Cadet Armory, Salem, Mass., 1818.
Carlyle House, Alexandria, Va.,
1752.
Carpenters' Hall, Phila., Pa., 1770.
Carter's Grove, Va., 1737.
Chase House, Annapolis, Md , 1770.
Childs House, Rochester, N. Y.,
1800.
Christ Church: —
Alexandria, Va., 1 767.
Cambridge, Mass., 1761.
Lancaster Co., Va., 1732.
Philadelphia, Pa., 1720.
Ware, Mass., 1826.
Williamsburg, Va., 1678.
Church, Ashfield, Mass., 1812.
" I>enox, Mass., 1814.
Cloisters, Ephrata, Pa., 1744.
Colton House, Agawam, Ma.ss.,
Rufus. 1806.
Colton House, Ijongmeadow,
Mass., 1 740.
Cook House, Br'kline, Mass., 1798.
Court-house, I^enox, Mass., 1813.
" Williamsburg, Va.,
1700.
Cradock House, Medford, Ma.ss.,
Curtis House, Jamaica I'lain, Mass.,
1639.
Custom-house, Charleston, S. C,
1752.
Custis House, Woodlawn, Va.,
1799.
Deming House, Litchfield, Conn.,
1 790.
Dutch Church, Hackensack, N. J.,
1 696.
Ellicott Hall, Batavia, N. Y., 1802.
Ely Tavern, Springfield, Mass., 1667.
Erasmus Hall, Brooklyn, 1786.
Essex House, Salem, Mass., 1801.
Fairbanks House, Dedham, Mass.,
1636.
Faneuil Hall, Boston, 1742.
First Church: —
F'armington, Conn., '75°.
Northampton, Mass., 1812.
Springfield, Mass., 1818.
West Springfield, Mass., 1802.
First Congregational Church,
Canandaigua, N. Y., 181 2.
Forrester House, Salem, Mass.,
1780.
Gadsby's Tavern, Alexandria, Va.,
1793-
Garrison House, Newburyport,
Mass., 1635.
Gerretsen House, Brooklyn, 1781.
Gloria Dei, or Old Swedes Church,
Philadelphia, Pa., 1700.
Gunston Hall, Va., 1757.
Hancock House, Boston, 1737.
Harwood House, Annapolis, Md.,
1770.
Haven House, Portsmouth, N. H.,
1800.
Hill House, Rochester, N. Y., 1820.
Hobart College, Geneva, N. Y.,
1821.
Hodges House, Salem, Mass., 1800.
Holden Chapel, Cambridge, Mass.,
1745-
House of Seven Gables, Salem,
Mass., 1635-
Hurd House, Charlestown, Mass.,
1798.
Independence Hall, Phila., Pa.,
1729.
King's Chapel, Boston, Mass., 1749.
Ladd House, Portsmouth, N. H.,
1764.
Lang House, Salem, Mass., 1740.
I^angdon House, Portsmouth,
N.H., 17S4.
Lee House, Marblehead, Mass.,
1768.
Lefferts House, Brooklyn, 1750.
Livezey's House, Phila., Pa., 1652.
Longswamp Reformed Church,
Mertztown, I'a., I79i.
Mabee House, Schenectady, N. Y.,
1706.
Mappa House, Trenton, N. Y.,
1809.
McDowell Hall, Annapolis, Md.,
1744.
Meeting-house, Sandown, N. H.,
1774-
Minot House, Dorchester, Mass.,
1640.
Monumental Church, Richmond,
Va., 1812.
Morris House, New York, 1762.
" " Phila., Pa., 1787.
Mt. Pleasant Mansion, Fairmont
Park, Philadelphia, Pa., 1761.
Mount Vernon, Va., 1743.
New York City-hall, 1803.
Nichols House, Salem, Mass., 1801.
Octagon House, Washington, D. C,
1799.
Old Corner Bookstore, Boston, 1712.
" North Church, New Haven,
Conn,, 1815.
" Ship, Hingham, Mass., 1681.
" South, Boston, Ma.ss., 1729.
" State-house, Boston, 1712.
" Stone House, Guilford, Conn.,
1640.
" Swedes Church, Wilmington,
Del., 1735.
Oliver House, Dorchester, Ma.ss.,
1740.
" " Salem, Mass., 1802.
Ontario County Jail, Canandaigua,
N. Y., 1815.
Paca House, Annapolis, Md., 1780.
Peabody House, Salem, Mass., t8i8.
Pennsylvania Hospital, Phila., Pa.,
1755-
Pepperell House, Kittery, Me., 1720.
Philipse Manor House, Yonkers,
N. Y., 1683-1743.
Phillips House, Salem, Mass., 1800.
Pickering House, Salem, Mass.,
1651.
Pickman House, Salem, Mass.,
1820.
Porter House, Hadley, Mass., 1713.
Putnam House, Danvers, Mass.,
1650. The Gen.
Quincy Mansion, Quincy, Mass.,
1770.
Rosewell, Whitemarsh, Va., 1725.
Royall House, Medford, Mass.,
i73«-
Sackett House, Sackett's Harbor,
N. Y., 1803.
Safford House, Salem, Mass., 1818.
St. James's, Goose Creek, S. C,
1711.
St. John's Chapel, New York,
N. Y., 1803.
" " Hampton, Va., i6fx).
St. Luke's, Smithfield, Va., 1632.
St. Michael's Charleston, S. C, 1752.
St. Paul's Chapel, New York,
N. Y., 1 764.
" " Ratcliflfeboro', S.C, 1819.
St. Peter's, New Kent Co., Va.,
1703-
Phila., Pa., 1738.
P. E. Church, Philadel-
phia, Pa., 1758.
St. Philip's, Charleston, S. C, 1733.
Seventh Day Baptist Church, New-
port, R. I., 1729.
Shirley, James River, Va., 1700.
Solitude, Philadelphia, Pa., 1784.
South Church, Salem, Mass., 1806.
State-house, Annapolis, Md., 1772.
" Newport, R. I., 1743.
Stebbins House, Deerfield, Mass.,
1772.
Taylor House, Roxbury, Ma.ss.,
1790.
Thompson House, Charlestown,
Mass., 1800.
Tudor House, Georgetown, D. C,
1816.
Tulip Hill, West River, Md., 1750.
Unitarian Church, Roxbury, Mass.,
1784.
" " Trenton, N. Y.,
1814.
University of Virginia, Charlottes-
ville, 181 7.
Van Rensselaer Manor House,
Albany, N. Y.,
1790.
" " Mansion, Albany,
N. Y., ,765.
Vassall-C raigie-Lon gf el low
House, Cambridge, 1759-
Verplanck House, Fishkill, N. Y.,
1740.
Waitt Place, Barnstable, Mass.,
1717.
Walker House, Lenox, Mass., 1804.
Waller House. Salem, Mass., 1684.
Wayside Inn, Sudbury, Mass., 1686.
Wells House, Cambridge, Mass.,
1845.
Wentivorth House, Little Harbor,
1750.
Westover, James River, Va., 1737.
Whipple House, Ipswich, Mass.,
i6s[?].
Williams House, Boston, 1808.
Winslow House, Plymouth, Mass.,
•755-
Woodford House, Phila., Pa., 1763.
Woolsey House, Sackett's
Harbor, N. Y., 1S16.
Wyckoff House, Flatlands Neck,
L. I., 1664.
General Index of Text and Illustrations.
VOLUMES 1 AND II.
— A —
Abingdon, Berks, Eng : —
Christ's Hospital', ii, 96, 98
Doonvay, VIII, 3
Tomkins Almshouse, ii, 96, 99
Town-hall, VIII, )9; 11,95
Academy of Arts founded by F.
Johnston. Royal
Hibernian, ii, 1 1 1
" Fort Hills, Canandaigua,
N. Y., ii, 3
Accident at St. Maryle Strand at
the Proclamation of Peace, ii. 105
Accokeek, ii, 49
Accomack, ii, 13, 20
Acton, Annapolis, Md. The Home
of the Murrays, ii. 57
Adam. The Brothers, i, iS; ii, 11,
84, 89, 90, 95. 100
" Ceiling. An, i. 8
Adams House, Quincy, Ma,ss. The
J. Q.. i,3; ii, 8-!
Advertisement. An old Irish, ii,
1 12
Agawam, Mass., ii, 62, 66, 67
Alb.any, N. V. : —
Van Rensselaer Manor House, i,
1.5. M. 15; I-
U
" " Mansion House,
i, J3
Aldborough House, Dublin, ii, iii
Aldrich, Architect of All Saints'
Church, Oxford, Y.ng. Dean. ii. 94
Aldrich's Book, "Elements 0/ Ar
chiUcture" in Latin. Dean, ii, 94
Alexandria, Va.: —
Braddock House, i, 29
Carlyle House. Mantels in. III,
)8
Cazanove. Mantel at. i, 22
Christ Church, II, 19,20, 21, 22
Gadsby's Tavern, i, 30 ; 1,9
Allen and the Rebuilding of Bath,
Eng. Ralph, ii. 95
All Saints' Church, 5,'orthamp t o n.
Kng., ii, 95;
VIII, J5
" " " Oxford de-
signed by
Dean Al
drich, ii, (14
Almshouse, Abingdon, Eng. Tom
kins, ii, 96, 99
" Maidstone, En g.
Banks, ii, 96), 99
" Trinity Ground, Ix)n
don, VIII, 22
Almshouses. English, ii, 96
Altar, Rye, Eng., ii. 98
" Table, Rye, Eng., ii, J 02
Alton, Hants, Eng. Porcli. ii. 92
" " " House, ii, 96
Ames. John, Architect, ii, 69
Analostan, Va., ii, 49
Explanation: — The first volume coinaiiis Parts I-IV, tlie second Parts V-VIII. Tlie volume is inciicated bv "i" or ** ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The fuU-paKC plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and boldf.ice figures showing the location of the plate in that Part
"Ancient." The Van Rensselaer,
Andirons, VI, 7, 25
Andrew House, Salem, Mass, VII,
13,25
Andros. Sir Edmund, ii, 15
" Gov., ii, 26
Annapolis, Md., i, 19
" on the Severn, ii, 57
Annapolis, Md. : —
Acton. The Home of the
Murrays, ii, 57
Brice House, i, J9; ii. 27, 59
Chase House, i, 20; ii, 59; ii, 58
Franklin House, ii. 60
Ilarwood House, i, J 9, 20, 21;
ii, 27, 58, 59
Jennings House, i, 20; ii, 59
McDowell Hall, ii, 60
Marx House, VII, 4
Paca House, ii, 27; VI, J
St. Anne's Church, ii, 61
St. John's College, i, 23; ii, 60
Stair-end in Scott House, i, 22
State-house, i, 23; ii, 59
Stewart House. Peggy, ii, 60
Street Plan, ii, 58
Window in Chase House, i, 21
*' " Harwood House, i, 20
Anne. Queen, ii. 42, 81
" Statues of <^)ueen, ii, 105
Apthorpe House, New York, N. Y.,
i, J4
Architects : —
Adam Brothers, i, 18; ii, 11, 84,
89, ip, 95. 100
Aldrich. Dean, ii, 94, 98
Ames. John, ii, 69
Banner. Peter, i, 10
Bell, ii, 93
Benjamin. Asher, ii, 66
Buckland, ii, 59
Bulfinch. Charles, i, 11, 19
Campljell. Colin, ii, 84, 96
Cassels, ii, 1 10
Chambers. SirWm.,i, 18; ii, 84,
no
Clarissault. M., i, 23
Clarke. Joseph, ii, 59
Ctioley. Tiiomas, ii, no
Damon. Capt. Isaac, ii. 70, 71
Dance, Jr. George, ii, 106
Duff, ii, 61
Ensor, ii, no
(iandon. James, ii, iio
Gibbs. James, i, 17, 28; ii, 84,
94. 105
Hadlield. George, i, 19
Hallet, i, 19
Hamilton. James, i, 18
Harrison. Peter, i, 10, 32
Huwksmoor. Nicholas, ii, 84, 94,
105
Hoban. James, i, 19
Johnston. Francis, ii, no, in
Jfiiies. Inigo, ii, 84, 100
Keaisley. Dr. John, i, 17, 18
Latrobe. Benjamin, i, 19
Architects : —
McBean, i, 17
McComb. John, i, 17
Mangin, i, 18
Mason. George C, i, 10
Munday. Richard, i, 10
Murray. W., ii, no, in
Norman. J., ii, 65
Rhoads. Samuel (Penn. Hospi-
tal)
Smibert. John, i, 10
Smith. John, ii, no
" Robert (Carpenters'
Hall).
Spratz. William, i, 5
Sproule, ii, 1 10
Strickland. William,
Taylor, ii, 84
Thornton. Dr. William, i, 19;
ii, 48
Towne, Ithiel, ii, 70
Vanbrugi:. Sir J,, ii, 84, 94, 95
Ward. John, ii, 94, 95
Wilkins, ii, 110, in
Wren, ii, 93, 94, 105, 106
Wyatt. Benjamin, i, 10
Arehiteeiural Review, London, ii,
99
Architecture in Dublin. Georgian,
ii, 107
" of England. Eigh-
teenth-century, ii,
,'■'■.
" Georgian Architecture
true, ii, 92
** Arehitechtrey W'are's, ii, 86
.Vrchitrave Bases, i, 23
.■\rmory of the Salem Cadets, i, 36
Arms of Capt. John Smith, ii, 26
" Royal, ii, 96; VIII, 17
Arnold, Benedict, aided by Mrs.
Byrd, ii, 42
" Homestead, Charlestown,
Mass. Doorway, II, 9
" Mansion. Benedict. Phila-
delphia, Pa., IV, 30, 32,
33, 35, 36
Arthur's Visit to Salem. Prince,
1,36
Arts. Royal Hibernian Academy
of, ii, in
Ashfiekl, Mass. Church, ii, 68, 69
Asylum Building, Somerville, Mass.
McLean, ii, 84
" Staircase. McLean, ii, 85
Atherington, Eng. Memorial Tab-
let, ii, 104
Avery House. Pequonnock, Conn.,
i, 3
" Peter, i, 9
Avon, N. Y., ii, 5
Ayrault. Dr., i, 5
Ayrault House, Geneseo, N. Y., i,
32; ii. 6; V, 5
Ayrault House. Hood. Newport,
R. I., i, 6
— B —
Bacon. General, ii, 13, 25
Bacon's Rebellion, ii, 26, 49
Bailey Prison, London, Eng. Old,
ii, J 06
Ball-room. Count Rumford's, ii, 77
Ball-rooms, i, 30; ii, 3, 77
Baltimore. Lord, ii, 49
" Home of the Calverts,
VI, 28, 29, 30, 3 J
Baltimore, Md. : —
Fan-lights, II, 39, 40
Homewood Stable, i, 22
Mantels, VI, )3, J4
Sidelights, II, 41
Baluster Sun-dial, ii, 9)
Balusters. Twisted, i, 15, 20, 27;
11,28,47,52; ii, 86
Balustrades, i, 7
" Roof, i, 6, 12
Bank of Ireland, Dublin, ii, no,
\n
Banks Almshouse, Maidstone, Eng.,
ii, 96, 99
Banner. Peter. Architect, i, 10
" Barber's Historical Colleetions^^ ii,
68
Barneveld. John of, ii, 10
" N. Y. Olden, ii, 10
Barns. Washington's, ii, 47
Barnstable, Mass. Mantel in Waitt
Place, III, 19
Bartram House, Philadelphia, Pa.
The John, i, 15; IV, 9
" John. Botanist, ii, 46
" William. Botanist, ii, 46
Bastile. Key of the, i, 31
Batavia, N. Y. : —
(^ary House, ii, 4
" " Door, i, 33
Ellicott Hall, ii, 4
Office of the Holland Purchase,
i,33
Batchelder House, Cambridge,
Mass., ii, 82
Bath, Eng. Prior Park, ii, 95
" " rebuilt by John \Vood,
ii. 95
Battle between " Chesapeake " and
" Slia/tfiorij" i, 34
" of Long Island, i, 12
" " Lundy's Lane, ii, 4
" " Sackett's Harbor, ii, 7
Battle Sussex, Eng. House at, ii,
100
Bay-window, Guildford, Eng , ii, J 00
Rye, Eng., ii, 97, 99
" St. Cross, Winchester.
Eng., ii, 100
Beall Air, Va., ii, 56
Bedford Tower, Dublin Castle,
VIII, 46
Bedposts, i, 3 J
Beech Timber. Red, ii, 1 1
Bell, Architect, ii, 93
Belle Air. Home of the Fitzhughs,
ii, 50
Bellingham-Caiy House, Chelsea,
Ma.ss„ II, 49; 50, 51,52
IV
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Belvoir, Va. Burning of, ii, 45
'• Seat of the Fairfaxes,
ii, 44, 52
Benham, Berks, Eng.. VIII. II
Benjamin's " Country Builders' As-
sistant." Asher, ii, 65. 86; VII,
32
Berkeley. Governor, ii, 13
" Sir W., ii, 20, 21
" Statue of Norbonne,
Williamsburg, Va., ii,
18
Berkeley. Va., ii, 27, 39
Bermuda Hundred, Va. ii. 32
Netiier Hundred, ii, 31
Berry Hill, Va., ii, 50
Bertram House for Aged Men,
S.ilem, Mass.. VII. 3 J
Bicknell House Mantels, Rochester,
,X. v., II. 5
Bifield, Mass. Dummer House,
VII, 30
Big Tree Inn. Geneseo, N. Y., ii, 6
Billings House, Trenton, N. Y., ii,
II
" John, ii, 10
Bjork. Pastor, ii, 12
Blackford House Mantels, Fairfax
Co., Va.. i. JO
Bladen's Folly, ii, 60. 61
Blair. Rev. James, ii, 15. 19
" Tombs, Jamestown, Va., ii,
21
Blair's Quarrel with Sir E. Andros,
ii, 15
Blanchard. Joshua. Builder of
the Old South Church, Boston,
Blandfield. Home of the Beverlys,
ii, 50
Blandford, Eng., rebuilt in 1740.
Town of, ii, 98
Blenheim, ii, 94
Blessing. The Roman Catholic, ii,
lOI
Blomfield's Book on English Ren-
aissance, ii, 93
Blue-coat School, Dublin, ii, 112;
VIII, 44
Blue-laws, ii, 77
Blue Limestone. Hard Irish, ii, in
Bombardment of Norfolk, Va., ii,
42
Book on Architecture. Dean Al-
drich's. Latin, ii, 94
" " Furniture. Chippendale's,
ii, 86
" " Renaissance in England.
Blomfield's, ii, 93
Books on Architecture. Early, ii,
66, 86
Bookstore, Boston. Old Corner,
ii, 82
Boone. Garrett, ii, 10
Boscobel, Va., ii, 50
Bossi's Inlaid Mantels. Value of,
ii, III
BosTo.N, Mass. : —
Bulfinch State-house. The, i, 11
Christ Church, i, 10; ii, 8 J, 83
Faneuil Hall, 11,31,32,33
Hancock House, i, 3; ii, 82
King's Chapel, i, 10; ii, 83
" " Details, i, 16, 17
Pulpit, i, 9; 1,15,
18, 19
C d Corner Bookstore, ii, 82
" North Church, ii, 81, 83
* South Church, i, 10, 26,27;
IV, 14, 15
•' State-house, i, 10, JJ; 11,46,
47; ii, 72. 83
Park .Street Church, i, 9, 10
Paul Revere House, i, 4
Province House, ii, 86
Puljlic Library. (Jld, i, 7
Tea-party House, i, 5
Ticknor House, ii, 86
West Church, ii,86; VII, 26,28
Williams House. II. ) I, 12, 13,
14, 15, 16, 17
I Botetourt. Death of Lord, ii, 19
Bowdoin House Door, Salem,
Mass., VII, 22
Bowling-green, Williamsburg, Va.,
ii, 13
Box-stair. The, ii, 79
Box-stairs, Salem, Mass., ii, 78
Brackets, II, 13, 49
Braddock House, Alexandria, Va.,
i, 29; HI, 18
Bradley, Va., ii, 52
Bradstreet House, Andover, Mass..
'•4
Brandon, James River, Va., i, 19
Lower, ii, 27, 28
Braxton. Carter, ii, 29
Brays. Tomb of the. Williams-
burg, Va., ii, 15
Brentford, Eng. House Porch, ii,
102
" Sussex, Eng., Doorway,
ii, loi
Brentwood, Middlesex, Eng. House
at, ii, 96
Brice House, Annapolis, Md., i, 19 ;
ii, 27, 59
Brick brought as Ballast, i, 20 ; ii, 76
■' Brick Church," New York, N. Y.,
i. 17
Brick in the South. Common Use
of, ii, 76
" Brick," Sackett's Harbor, N. Y.
Entrance to the, ii, 8
Brickmaking at Jamestown, Va., ii,
30
" " Trenton, N. Y., ii,
10
Brickyards, Dublin, ii, no
" Medford, i, 2 ; ii, 77
Bridge at Chester, Eng., ii, 98
" " Dublin. The Carlisle, ii,
1 10
" " Newbury, Eng., ii, 98 ;
VIII, 25
Bridger. Hon. Joseph, ii, 24
Bridges designed by Capt. I. Damon,
ii, 71
Brighton, N. Y. : —
Culver House, ii, 3 : V, 8
Porch, I, J
Porch of Smith House, ii, J
Brookline, Mass. : —
Door in Isaac Cook House, II,
23: —
Mantel in Same, II, J 8
Brooklyn, N. Y. : —
Erasmus Hall, i, 16 : —
Mantel in Same, IV, 7
Elsie Gerretsen House, i, 12
I^fferts Homestead, i, 12 : —
Doorway, IV, 4
Brooks House Staircase, Salem,
Mass., VII, 6
Brothers Adam. The, i, 18; ii, 11,
84, 89, 90, 95, 100
Brown. Gen. Jacob, ii, 7
" J. Appleton, ii, 73
Bruton Parish Church, Williams-
burg, Va., ii, 14,
15
" " Churchyard, ii, 43
" " Somerset, England,
ii, 14
Buckingham. George V i 1 1 i e r s,
Duke of, ii, 89
" Street, London,
Doorway in, ii, 87
Buckland, Architect, ii, 59
Bulfinch. Charles. Architect, i,
II, 19; ii, 79
" Front, Boston. The
Colonnade of the, ii,
79
Bull House, Newport, R. I. The
Gov., i, 2
" Inn, Guildford, Eng., ii, 100
Bull's Head Tavern, New York,
• N. Y., i, 19
Burford, Eng. Iron Entrance-gate,
VIII, 29
Burlington, N. J. Friends' Meet-
ing-house, i, 9
Burnaby. Archdeacon ii, 15
Burr. Aaron, i, 14 ; ii, i
Burwell. Carter, ii, 26, 30, 34
" Lewis, ii, 35
" Col. Nathaniel, ii, 22
" Rebecca, ii, 17
Bushfield. House of J. A. Wash-
ington, ii, 50
Byrd. Elizabeth. The beautiful,
ii, 18
" Lieut. Thomas. Capture
of, ii, 5
" and Lord Peterboro'.
Evelyn, ii, 41
" Manuscript. The, ii, 41
" of Westover. Col., ii, 20,
28, 40
-c-
Cabot House, Salem, Mass. Joseph,
VII, 7, 8, 9
Cadet Armory, Salem, Mass., i, 36
Calf dropped down Chimney, ii, 75
Calvert. Leonard, ii, 58
Cambridge, Eng, Senate House, ii,
94
" Mass., i, 2
Cambridge, Mass.: —
Batchelder House, ii, 82
Christ Church, ii, 82
Elmwood, i, 5
Hemenway Gymnasium, ii, 84
Holden Chapel, ii, 82, 84
Holmes House, ii, 84
Ma.ssachusetts Hall, ii, 82
Riedesel House, ii, 82
Tories' Row, ii, 81
Vassall - Craigie -Longfellow
House, i, 4, 6, 12; ii, 82
Wadsworth House, ii, 82
Wells House, ii, 82
Camm. Rev. Mr., ii, 30
Camp. Col Elisha, ii. 9
W. B., ii, 8
" House, or " The Brick,"
Sackett's Harbor, N. Y.,
ii, 9; V, JO
Campbell, Architect. Colin, ii, 84,
96
Canandaigua, N. Y. : —
Congregational Church, ii, 6
Doorway, i, 16
" of the Greig House, III,
28,29
First Cong. Church, V, J
Fort Hills Academy, ii, 3
Granger Place Seminary, ii, 3
Grey Mansion, ii, 3
House, V, 7
Candelabrum at Horsmonden, Eng.,
ii, 101
" " Northiam, Eng., ii,
101
Capitals, II, J, J4, 20 ; HI. 5, 15,
17; IV, 5, 12; ii, 67; V, 2, 16,
21; VI, 7; VII, 18; VIII, 4, 16
Capitol, Richmond, Va., i, 23
" Washington, D. C. The
U. .S., i, 19; ii. 48
Card-playing Clergymen, ii, 15
Carlisle Bridge, Dublin, ii, no
" Park Pier Termination,
Hastings, Eng., ii, 96 ;
VIII. J7
Carlyle House Mantels, Alexandria,
Va., Ill, J8
" John, i, 30
Caroline, Queen, and Stratford
House, Va., ii, 21
Carpenters' Classic, ii, 2
Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.,
111,31,32
Carrolls. The, ii, 5
Carter. John, ii, 24
King, ii, 24, 34, 39
" Robert, ii, 24
" Houses, ii, 43
Carter's Grove, James River, Va.,
i, 19. 21,22; ii, 26, 34
" Hall, Frederick Co., Va.,
ii. 35
" " James River, Va., i,
" " Millwood, Va,, ii, 34
Cartouche at So. Molton, Eng.,
VIII, 17
Carvings by Gibbons, Timbs and
others, ii, 89
" Heraldic, ii, 96; VIII, 17
Cary House, Batavia, N. Y., I, 33 ;
ii, 4
Casino at Clontarf, Ireland, ii, 112;
VIII, 42
Cast-iron Grapes, ii, 63
Castle. Bedford Tower, Dublin,
VIII, 46
" Chapel, Dublin. The, ii,
III
" Howard, Eng,, ii, 94
Caterpillars. Silk, ii, 14
Cathcart. Mr., i, 28
Cathedral, Ireland. Tower Armagh,
ii, TIC
Catholic Blessing. The Roman, ii,
lOI
Cazanove, Alexandria, Va. Mantel
in, i, 22
Ceiling Decorations, ii. 41. ni
Ceilings, i, 8, 21 ; II, 29, ii, 41 ; VI,
11,31; VII, 9
Cellars, ii, 52
Chair. Washington's Lodge, i, 30
Chambers. Sir Wm., i, 18; ii, 84,
1 10
Champlin House, Newport. The
Christopher G., i, 32
Chancel of Old Swedes Church,
Philadelphia, Pa., ii, J2
Chandeliers, ii, 98
Chantilly, Va., ii, 50
Chapel. Cunningham, or " Old,"
Clarke Co., Va., ii, 22
" Dublin Castle, ii, in
" Holden, Cambridge,
Ma.ss., ii, 82, 84
" King's, Boston, Mass., i,
9, 10, 16, 17; I, 15,
18, 19; ii, 83
" St. Paul's, New York, i,
16; IV, JO, J J, 12, 13
Character of English Houses, ii, 93
Charles the First, ii, 14
" " .Second, ii, 14
Charlemont, Mass. Church at, ii,
71
" House, Dublin, ii, iii
Charleston, S. C: —
Custom-house, i. 23
St. Michael's Church, i, 23
St. Philip's Church, i, 23
Charlestown, Mass.: —
Arnold House Doorway, II, 9
Hurd House Porch, i, 7
Thompson House Mantel, II, 7, 8
Charlestown, W. Va., ii, 56
Charlottesville, Va. University of
Virginia, i, 23, 24
Chase. Chief Justice, ii, 59
" Judge Samuel, ii, 58
" House, Annapolis. Md., i,
20, 21,22,23; ii. 5S, 59
Chatham. Home of the Fitzhughs,
ii. 50
Chelsea, Eng. Door-heads in
Cheyne Row, ii, 87, 90
" Mass. Bellingham - Cary
House, II, 49, 50, 51,
52
Cherry Tavern, ii, 54
Cherry-tree Avenue at Gunston
Hall, ii, 51
Cheshire, Eng. Oulton Hall, ii, 97
Chester, Eng. Bridge at, ii, 98
Chew House, Germantown, Pa., VI,
J
Cheyne Row, Chelsea, Eng. Door-
heads in ii, 87, 90
Explanation;— The first volume contains Parts I-IV, the second Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or " ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman immcral indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
Chichester, Eng. Council-chamber,
ii, 96; VIII, J 9
" " Doorway, VIII, 3
Child. Lydia Maria, ii, 73
Childs House Cornice, Rochester,
N. Y. Jonathan,
II, J
" " Rochester, N. Y.
Side Porch, II, 6
Chimney. Powhatan's, ii, 26
Chimneypiece, See " Mantelpiece "
Chippendale's Book on Furniture,
ii, 86
" Shop, London, ii, 104
Chippewa. Battle of, ii, 4
Chotauk Region. The, ii, 50
Christ Church, Alexandria, Va., II,
J9, 20, 2J,22
" " Boston, Mass., i, 10;
ii, 81, 83
" " Cambridge, Mass.,
ii, 82
" " Lancaster Co., Va.,
ii, 20, 24
" " Newgate, London,
ii, 106; VIII, 37
" " Philadelphia, Pa., i,
17. 18; 11,42,43,
44, 45; IV, 3J!
ii, 12
" " Shrewsbury, N. J., i,
10
" " Spitalfields, London,
ii, 94, 105 ; VIII,
39,40
" " Williamsburg, Va., i,
24
" Hospital, Abingdon, Eng.,
ii, 96. 98
Chronological Table, i, 9 [See also
table preceding this Index.]
Church designed by Isaac Damon,
ii. 7J
" " " Wren's Daugh-
ter, ii, 104
" Steeple, New Haven, Conn.
First, II, JO
" " Roxbury, Mass.
First Unitarian,
i, 10
Churches, i, 9
" London, City, ii, 98
" Removal of Galleries in,
ii, 105
" Southern, i, 23
" Triad of Georgian.
London, ii, 104
Churches: —
All Saints', Northampton, Eng.,
ii, 95; VIII, J5
" " Oxford, Eng., :i, 94
Ashfield, Ma.ss., ii, 68
Bruton Parish, Williamsburg, Va.,
ii, 14. J 5
Christ, Alexandria, Va., II, J 9,
20,21,22
" Boston, Ma.ss., i, 10 ; ii,
81,83
" Cambridge, Ma.ss., ii,
82
" Lancaster Co., Va., ii, 20,
24
" Newgate, London, ii, 106 ;
VIII, 37
" Philadelphia, Pa., i, 17,
i8;II, 42, 43,44, 45;
IV, 31; ii. 12
" Shrew.sbury, N. J., i, 10
" Spitalfields, loindon, ii,
94, 105; VIII, 39, 40
" Williamsburg, Va., i, 24
Dutch, Ilackensack, N. J., i, 17
First, ii, 70
" Deerfield, Ma.ss., ii, 68
" Farmington, Conn., ii, 68
" Hingham, Mass., IV, (7
" Northampton, Mass., ii, 69,
70
" Springfield, Mass., ii, 69
" West Springfield, Ma.ss., ii,
68
Churches : — ■
First Congregational, C a n a n -
daigua, N. Y., V, J
" Meeting-house, i, 35
Greyfriars, London, ii, 106
Hatfield, Mass., ii, 68
Holden, Chapel, Cambridge,
Mass., ii, 82, 84
King's Chapel, Boston, i, 9, 10,
16, 17; I, 15, 18, J9; ii, 83
Lenox, Mass., ii, 70
Little Stanmore, Eng., ii, 95
Longswamp Reformed, Mertz-
town. Pa., i, 18
Methodist Episcopal, Waterloo,
N. Y., i., 17
Monumental, Richmond, Va., Ill,
IJ
Narragansett, R. I., i, 9
North Runcton, Eng., ii, 93
" Old North," Boston Mass., ii,
81,83
" " New Haven,
Conn., II, JO
"Old Ship," Hingham, Mass., i,
9; ii, 83
" Old South," Boston, Mass., i, 10,
26,27; IV, 14, J5
" Old Swedes," Philadelphia, i, 18 ;
ii, 12; V, J J, J2
Park Street, Boston, Mass., i, 10
Pohick, Va., ii, 25, 44, 48, 50
St. Anne's, Annapolis, ii, 61
" George's, Dubhn, ii, 1 1 1
" James's, Goose Creek, S. C,
i, 24; 111,6
" " Piccadilly, London,
i, 10, 32 ; ii, 105
" John's, Hampton, Va., i, 24
" " Chapel, New York,
N. Y., i, 17; IV, J6
" Luke's, Smithfield, Isle of
Wight Co., Va., ii, 20, 23
" Martin's -in -the -Fields, Lon-
don, i, 10, 17; ii, 86, 94
" Mary -le-Strand, London, Eng.,
ii,94, 104; VIII, 32, 33, 34
" Mary's Woolnoth, London,
ii, 94
" Michael's, Charleston, S. C,
i, 23
" Paul's Chapel, New York,
N. Y.,i, 16; IV, JO,
II, 12, 13
" " Norfolk, Va., ii, 42
Ratcliffeboro', S. C,
III, 11
" Peter's, New Kent Co., Va.,
ii,25
" " Philadelphia, Pa., i,
17; ii, 12; V, 3, 6
" Philip's, Charleston, S. C, i,
23
Seventh Day Baptist, Newport,
R. I., i, 31
South, Salem, Mass., VII, 33
Swedes, " Old Stone," Wilming-
ton, Del., I, 17
Trinity, Newport, R. I., i, 32
Unitarian, Trenton, N. Y., ii, 10,
1 1
Ware, Gloucester Co., Va., ii, 22
" Mass., ii, 71
West, Boston, Mass., ii, 86; VII,
26,28
Zion, Philadelphia, Pa., i, 17
Churchyard Gate, WiUiamsburg,
Va., ii, 14
Tomb.s, VIII, 31,35
Cincinnati. Society of the, i, 25
Circular Roads, Dublin, ii, 108
City hall, Dublin, VIII, 48
" Newport, R. I., i, II
New York, N. Y., i, 17,
18;!!, 30,34, 35,36,
37,48
" Yonkers, N. Y., i, 14
City Hotel, Alexandria, Va., i, 31 :
1,9
City Island, N. Y. The Leviness
House, ii, 77
Claggett. William, i, 33
Claggett's Tavern, Alexandria, i, 31
Clapboards, i, 7
" Moulded, ii, 64
Clarissault. M., Architect of Rich-
mond State-house, i, 23
Clarke. Attainder of Robert, ii, 6i
" Joseph, Architect, ii, 59
Clarkson, N. Y. Doorway, ii, 78
Classical Design. Books on, ii, 86
Clay Plastering, ii, 74
Claymont Court : House of Bush-
rod Washington, ii, 55 : VI, 37
Clement's Inn, London. The
Garden House, VIII, 30
Clergy addicted to Drink, ii, 25, 60
Clergymen paid with Tobacco, ii, 30
Clinton. Gov. De Witt, ii, 10
Clock in Seventh Day Baptist
Church, Newport, i, 32
Cloisters, Ephrata, Pa., IV, J 8
Clontarf, Ireland. Casino, ii, 112;
VIII, 42
Cluny Museum in a New England
Village. A, ii, 72
Coaching-inns. English, ii, 96
Cockfighting, ii, 25
Coleman. Samuel, ii. 66
College of Matrons in Salisbury
Close, ii, 96; VIII, 23
" St. John's, Annapolis, Md.,
i, 23
" of Surgeons, Dublin, ii, 1 1 1 ;
VIII, 44
" Trinity, Dublin, ii, in;
VIII, 48
" WiUiam and Mary, ii, 19
Collins House, Newburyport, Mass.
The, ii, 72
Colonial Architecture: —
In Virginia and Maryland, ii, 13
" Western Massachusetts, ii, 61
F. E. Wallis's Book on, ii, 3
Colonial Dames, ii, 72
Color, i, 7
Colton House, Agawam, Mass., ii,
66,67
" " Longmeadow,
Mass. Samuel,
ii, 62, 63
Columnar Doorways, ii, loi
Commission. Dublin's Wide-street,
ii, io8
Communal System, ii, 31
Communion Plate of Bruton Parish,
ii, 16
Concord, Mass. The Old Manse,
i,3
Congregational Church, Canan-
daigua, N. Y., ii, 6
*' Meeting-ho use.
First, i, 35
Contract for altering the Witch
House, Salem, i, 35
" " Charlemont Church,
Mass., ii, 71
Convent, Ephrata, Pa., i, 15; IV,
18
Cook House. Isaac, Brookline,
Mass. Door in,
H, 23
*' " Brookline, Mass.
Mantel, II, J 8
Coolidge. J. R., ii, 33
Corey. Giles, i, 33
" Martha, i, 34
Cork Hill, Dublin. View on, VIII,
46
Corner Bookstore, Boston, Mass.
Old, ii, 82
Cornice : Jonathan Childs House,
Rochester, N. Y., II, J
Cornices, i, 6: II, J, J7; III, J5;
ii, 9, 10; VI, 23, 29, 30,31
Cornwallis. Surrender of, ii, 19
Corotoman. King Carter of, ii, 34
Corwin. Jonathan, i, 35
Cottage. The Goodman. Lenox,
Ma.ss., ii, 83, 86
Council-chamber, Chichester, Eng.,
ii, 96; VIII, J9
Court-house Doorway, G e n e s e o,
N. Y., V, 7
" Dublin, ii, J JO
" Hanover, Va., ii, 30
Court-house, Lenox, Mass., ii, 70,
71
" Williamsburg, Va., i,
22,23; ii, 13, 14
Cradock. Gov., ii, 72
" House, Medford, Mass.,
i, 2, 3; ii, 72,81
Craigie House, Cambridge, Mass.,
i, 4, 6, 12 ; ii, 82
Cranbrook, Eng. Royal Arms at, ii,
96; VIII, J7
" " School-house, ii,
95
Crowninshield Brothers accused of
Murder, i, 36
Crow's Nest, Va., ii, 50
Culver House, Brighton, N. Y., ii,
3; V, 8
" " Porch, Brighton,
N. Y., i, J
Cummington, Mass., ii, 71
Cunningham Chapel, Clarke Co.,
Va., ii, 22
Cupboard in Jaffrey House, Ports-
mouth, N. H., i, 8
Cupolas, II, 33 ; IV, 34 • ii, 98
" Pennsylvania Hospital,
Philadelphia, Pa., IV, 34
" The Ubiquitous New Eng-
land, ii, 77
Curtis House, Jamaica Plain, Mass.,
ii, 82, 83
Custis. John Parke, ii, 44, 45
" Mrs. Martha, ii, 25, 44
" Nellie, ii, 45, 47
Custis's House, " Woodlawn."
Nellie, ii, 27,48; VI, 20, 22,23,
24, 25, 26
Custom-house, Charleston, S. C, i,
23
" Door, Portsmouth,
N. H., i, 12
" Dubhn, ii, J07, 108
" King's Lynn, Eng.,
ii- 93
" Salem, Mass., i, 10,
11,34
" Yorktown, Va. First
of its kind, ii, 19
— D —
Dale. Sir Thomas, ii, 31, 38, 39
Dale's Gift, ii, 31
Damon. C apt. Isaac. Architect, ii,
70, 71
Dance, Architect. George. Jr., ii,
106
Danvers, Mass. : —
Balustrade from King Plooper
House, i, 7
General Putnam House, i, 4
"King" Hooper House, i, 4
Maria Goodhue House, VII, 29
Danvensport Mantels, VII, 21
Daughter. Church designed by
Wren's, ii, 104
Davie, Photographer. Galsworthy,
ii, 96
Deal Door\vay. An Old, VIII, 4 ■
Decastro House, Trenton, N. Y., ii,
II
" Madam, ii, 10
Deck-roofs, ii, 77
Dedham, Mass. Fairbanks House,
I, 25, 26 ; ii, 82, 83
Deerfield, Mass., ii, 62
" " Doors of Stebbins
House, ii, 64
" " First Church, ii,
68
" " Opposes the Trol-
ley, ii, (iTf
" N. Y., ii, 10
De La Warre. Lord, ii, 23, 25, 38
Deming House, Litchfield, Conn.,
i, 5
Explanation: —The first volume contains Pans I-IV, the second Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or "ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The tull-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
VI
THE GEORGIAX PERIOD.
Deptford, Exg. : —
Home of Grinling Gibbons, ii, 87
Rich in Door-heads, ii, 87
Trinitv Almshouse Gate-house,
VIII, 24
Derby House. Salem, Mass., VII, 7
Design. Books on, ii, 86
Desk. I. 3»
Devonshire Sq., London. A Stair-
case in, VIII. 26
Dexter. Timothy, Lord, ii, 78
Dictum concerning Doors. Palla-
dio's, ii, 99
Digges. Edward, ii, 14
Dogs. Washington's, ii, 47
Dogue's Neck famous for Game, ii.
Dome, i, 23
Domestic Architecture of the Middle
Provinces, i, i r
Door-heads : —
Cheyne Row, Chelsea, Eng., ii,
87,89
Deptford. Eng., ii, 87
Exeter, Eng., VIII, 8, JO
Greenbush, L. I., i, >2
Hastings, Eng., ii, 93
London. Georgian, in, ii, 87
New York, N. Y., i, J 2
Nichols ^nPierce House, Salem,
Mass., i, 8
Portsmouth, N. H., i, 6
Salem, Mass., i, 8
Tulip Hill, West River, Md., i,
20
Westminster, London, ii, 90
Whitehall, Md., i, 22
Doors XV, 33, 35 ; V, 2, 5, 7, 9,
JO, J2, J7, J8; VI, JO,
34; VII, J2, J4, J9, 22
" Palladio's Dictum concern-
ing, ii, 99
Doorway, ii, 62, 76, 78
Doorways. Columnar, ii, loi
" Entablature, ii, loi
" Humanity of, ii, 99
Doorways : —
Abingdon, Eng., VIII, 3
Arnold House, Charlestown,
Mass., 11,9
Bellingham-Cary House, Chelsea,
Mass., II, 52
Brentford, Eng., loi, J02
Buckingham St., Ixindon, ii, 87
Camp Mansion, Sackett's Harbor,
N. v., V, 10
Canandaigua, N. Y., i, J6
Carpenters'-hall, Philadelphia,
Pa., Ill, 32
Gary House, Batavia, N. Y., I, 33
Chiche.ster, Eng., VIII, 3
Churchill House, Wethersfield,
Conn., ii, 63
Deal. An old, VIII, 4
Isaac Cook House, Brookline,
Mass., II, 23
Custom-house, Portsmouth,
N. H., I, J2
Fairfax House, Putney, Eng.,
VIII. 6
Great Ormond St., London, ii,
89
Greig House, Canandaigua, N. Y.,
111,28,29
Griffith House, Rochester, N. Y.,
ii, 2
Grosvenor Road, I/indon, ii, 9J
Guildford, Eng., VIII, 3
Ha.'.ard House, Newport, R. I., I,
23
Isaac Hills House, Rochester,
N. Y., 11,3
Independence Hall, Philadelphia,
Pa.. IV, 2J
Lefferts House, Brooklyn, N. Y.,
IV, 4
Liberty St., Pittsburgh, I'a., Ill,
JO
DOORW.WS : —
Mappa House, Trenton, N. Y..
V, 16, 17, J8
Meeting-house, Sandown, N. H.,
1,8
Morris House, Philadelphia, Pa.,
111.22
New York City-hall, II, 48
Old North Church, New Haven,
Conn., II. JO
Pennsvlvania Hospital, Philadel-
phia', Pa., Ill, 5
Providence, R. I., i, 7; ii. 79
Queen Anne's Gate, Westmin-
ster, Eng., ii, 89
Queen's Sq.. London, ii, 90
Royall House, Medford, Mass.,
1,5,6
Sackett's Harbor, N. Y., Ill, 26
Shirley Parlor, VI, 32
Stebbins House, Deerfield, Mass.,
ii, 64
Thompson House, Charlestown,
Mass., 11,7
Wandsworth Manor House, Eng.,
vni, J8
West Wycombe, Eng., ii, 92
Wilhams House, Boston, Mass.,
II, J3
Winslow House, Plymouth,
Mass., VIII, 2
Dorchester, Mass. The Oliver
House, i, 5
Dormer on Count Rumford's House,
Woburn, Mass., i, 7
" Typical New York, i, J2,
13
Dormers, i, 7
" Newcastle, Eng., i, J 2
Douglas House, Trenton, N. Y., ii,
II
Dove-cote, Shirley, Va., i, 21 ; ii, 36
Dow, Painter. Arthur W., ii, 73
Drinking Clergymen, ii, 25, 60
" Habits, ii, 15, 25
Drunkards, i, 1 5
Drunkenness, ii, 60
Dublin, Ireland: —
Aldborough House, ii, 1 1 1
Bank of Ireland, ii, no, 111
Bedford Tower, Dublin Castle,
VIII, 46
Blue-coat School, ii, 112; VIII,
44
Brickfields, ii, no
Carlisle Bridge, ii, 1 10
Castle Chapel, ii, in
Ceiling decorated by Italians.
Plaster, ii, in
Charlemont House, ii, in
Circular Roads. The, ii, 108
City-hall, VIII, 48
College of Surgeons, ii, in; VII,
44
Cork Hill. View on, VIII, 46
Custom-house, ii, J07, loS
Four Courts. The, ii, 1 JO
Georgian Architecture in, ii, 107
Hospital. The Rotunda, ii, 109;
VIII, 42
Hospitals, ii, 109
Houses. Early Georgian, ii, J08,
J09
King's Inn, ii, J09, no, in
Leicester House, ii, 1 10
Lord Essex's House, ii, 112
Nelson Monument. The, ii, 1 1 1
Newgate Prison, ii, no
Old Parliament House, ii, JJ J
Population of, ii, 107
Portland-stone Dressings, ii, in
Post-office. The General, ii, in
Quays, ii, 108
Register Office, ii, in
Royal Exchange, ii, 1 10
" Hibernian Academy of
Art, ii. III
St. George's Church, ii, in
Statue of Grattan, ii, in
Trinity College, ii, 1 11 ; VIII, 48
Dublin, Ireland: —
Tvrone House, ii, no
Weavers' Hall, ii, J09
Wide Streets Commission. The,
ii, loS
Duelling Parson. A, ii, 41
Duff, a Scotch Architect, ii, 61
Dug-outs, ii, 74
Duke of Buckingham. George
Villiers, ii, 89
Dumb-waiter Fireplace, i, 23
Dummer House, Bifield, Mass., VII,
30
Dunmore. Lord, ii, 19, 29
" Attempts to capture
Mount Vernon, ii, 45
" Bombards Norfolk,
Va. Lord, ii, 24
Dunmore's House, Williamsburg,
Va. Lord, ii, 18
Dutch Character of English Houses,
ii, 93
" Church, Hackensack, N. J.,
i> 17
" Cottage, New York, N. \ .,
i, J4
" Gap, ii, 32
" House, Long Island, N. Y.,
i, J2
" Influence in the Genesee
Valley, ii, 2
" Scenic Wall-paper, i, 8
" Tiles, i, 22
Dwight House, Springfield, Mass.
Josiah, I, 2J
-E-
Eagle Tavern, Rochester, N. Y., ii,
3
Early Georgian Houses, Dublin, ii,
J08
Eastern Shore, Md., ii, 58
Easthampton, L. I. J. H. Payne's
House, i, 3
East India Trade of Salem, ii, 77
Eastlake's ''History of the Gothic
Revival" ii, 86
Eighteenth-century Architecture in
England, ii,
16, 91
" Bridge, New-
bury, Eng., ii,
98
" English Street.
The, ii, 98
" Gardens, ii, 98
" Elements of Architecture" Dean
Aldrich's, ii, 94
Eliot Sq. Church, Roxbury, Mass.,
i, JO
Ellicott Hall, Batavia, N. Y., ii, 4
" Joseph, ii, 4
Elmwood, Cambridge, Mass., i, 5
Elsing Green, Va., ii, 29
Ely Tavern, Springfield, Mass., ii,
62
Emerton House, Salem, Mass., VII,
J6
Endicott House Door. Gov., VII,
22
England. Blomfield's Book on the
Renaissance in, ii, 93
Englisii Inn Galleries, ii, 80
" Houses. Dutch Character
of, ii, 93
" Metalwork, ii, 98
Entablature Doorways, ii, loi
Entrance-gate. Iron. Burford, Eng.,
VIII, 29
" " Evesham,
Eng., VIII,
29
" " St. Giles, Ox-
ford, VIII,
27
" " Salisbury
Close,VIII,
27
Entrance Screen, Syon House, Eng.,
ii,95; VIII, J5
Ephrata, Pa. Convent at, i, 1 5
" " Saal and Saron, i,
J6; IV, J8
Erasmus Hall, Brooklyn, N. Y., i,
J6
" " Mantel, IV, 7
Essex House Mantel, Salem, Mass.,
in, J3
" Institute, Salem, i, 36; IV, 3
Essex's House, Dublin. Lord, ii,
112
Everett. Edward, i, 5
Evesham, Eng. Iron Entrance-
gate, VIII, 29
Exchange, Dublin. The Royal, ii,
no
Exeter, Eng., Door-heads, VIII, 8,
JO
Extinguishers. Link, ii, 87
-P-
Fairbanks House, Dedham, Mass.,
1.25,26; ii, 82, 83
Fairfax. Anne, wife of L. Wash-
ington, ii, 44
" Co., Va. Mantels in
Blackford House, i, JO
" House, Putney, Eng.
Doorway of, VIII, 6
Fairfax's Friendship for Washing-
ton. Lord, ii, 44
Fairford, Eng. Churchyard Tombs,
VIII, 35
Falling Creek, Va., ii, 32
Faneuil Hall, Boston, Mass., II, 3 J,
32,33
" Peter, i, 27
Fan-lights, i, 13; II, 3,39,40; HI,
5, 7, 28, 29; IV, 8; u, 2; VI,
24
Farmington, Charlottesville, Va., i,
23
Farmington, Conn.: —
First Church, ii, 68
Old House at, i, 4
Federals attempt to burn " Lower
Brandon," ii, 28
Fence Posts, Westover, Va., i, 2J
Festoons, i, 8
Field-book. Washington's, ii, 55
Fireplace. See " Mantelpiece."
" Facings. Perforated, ii,
66
First Church. See "Church,"
" Meeting-house."
Fishkill, N. Y. Verplanck House,
i, 12, 25
Fitzhugh House, "Hampton," Gen-
eseo, N. Y., ii, 6
" William, ii, 6
Fitzhughs. The, ii, 5
Flatlands Neck, L. I. WyckofE
House, i, 16
Flat Roof, i, 2 1
Flemish Bond, i, 20
Floors. Puncheon, i, 20
Folger House, Geneva, N. Y., ii, 3 ;
III, 9
Font, IV, J J
" in Old Swedes Church, Phila-
delphia, Pa., ii, 13
" The Pocahontas, ii, 16
Foot-stoves, ii, 71
Forrester House, Salem, Mass., I,
J3; VII, J5
Fort Hills Academy, Canandaigua,
N. v., ii, 3
" Mabee House, Schenectady,
N. Y., once a, ii, 9
" Patience, Va., ii, 32
" Schuyler, N. Y., ii, 10
Four Courts, Dublin. The, ii, J JO
" Fowey " Man - of - war threatens
York town, ii, 19
Fox-hunting in the Genesee Valley,
ii, 6
Frame of Farmington Church, ii, 68
Franklin House, Annapolis, ii, 60
Explanation: — The first volume contains Parts I-IV, the second Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or " ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
FREDF.RrCKSBURG, Va :
Mary Washington House, ii, 20
" Sunrise Tavern " Interiors, ii,
46
Freeman House, Norfolk, Va., VI
French Rococo Ornament, i, 8
Friends' Meeting-house, BurUngton.
N. J., i, 9
Frieze. A Turkey-decorated, ii, 8 1; ;
VIII, 2
Friezes, II, J J, J2, J7; III, 17
Furniture brought over in the
" Mayflower," ii, 84
" Chippendale's Book on,
ii, 86
" at Salem, Mass., i, 36
I. 26, 30, 31; III, 25,
26; IV, 3, IV, J J
-G-
Gable Roof. The, ii, 82
Gables. Stepped, i, 12
Gadsby's Tavern, Alexandria, Va.,
i. 30 ■• 1.9
Gage House. Porch of the Gen.,
111,27
Galleries. English Inn, ii, 80
" Removal of Church, ii,
105
Gallows Hill, Salem, Mass., i, 33
Gambling, ii, 15
Gambrel Roof. The, i, 4, 12, 21 ;
ii, 64, 82
Garden at Mount Vernon, ii, 46
" " Shirley, ii. 36
" of the Woolsey House,
Sackett's Harbor, N. Y.,
ii, 9
Garden-house, Clement's Inn, Lon-
don, VIII, 30
" Rye, Eng., ii, 97, 99
Gardens. Eighteenth-century, ii, 98
Garrison House, Medford, Mass., ii,
7
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
va
Georgian Architecture in Dublin, ii,
107
" true Archi-
tecture, ii,
92
" London Churches. A
Triad of, ii, 104
" Door-heads in London, ii,
87
" Houses built on the
Streets. Eng-
lish, ii, 97
" " in Dublin. Early,
ii, 108
" " New England,
ii, Si .
" Tombs. English, ii, 98
Germanna. Country Seat of Gov.
Spotswood, ii, 20
Germantowx, Pa. :
Chew House, VI, J
Colonial House, i, 14
Upsal House, VI, ), 2,3
Wister House Mantel, VI, 8
Gerretsen House, Brooklyn, N. Y
Elsie, i, J 2
Ghost of Chancellor ^Vythe, ii, 18
" Elizabeth Byrd, ii, i8
Gibbons. Grinling, ii, 8i, 89
" " House at Dept-
ford, Eng,, ii,
87
" Timbs and other Carv-
ers, ii, 89
Gibbs. James, Architect, i, 17, 28;
ii, 84, 89, 105
Gla.ss Parlor, Baltimore House, VI,
3J
"Gloria Dei," or Old Swedes
Church, Philadelphia, Pa., i, 18;
ii, 12; V, J J, J2
Golden Horseshoe. Knights of the,
ii, 20, 49
Good. Sarah, i, 33
Goodhue House, Danvers, Mass.
Maria, VII, 29
Greig House Doorway, C a n a n -
daigua, N. Y., Ill, 28, 29
" Mansion, Canandaigua, N. Y.,
ii. 3
Greville's Expedition. Sir R., ii, 42
Greyfriars' Church, London, ii, 106
Griffith House Doorway, Rochester,
N. Y., ii, 2
" Inn, Trenton, N. Y., ii, ii
Groombridge Place, near Tun-
bridge-Wells, Eng. Portico, ii,
103
Grosvenor Road, London. Door-
way in, ii, 9 J
Grove. Carter's, ii, 26
Guildford, Conn. " Old Stone
House," i, I, 2
Guildford, Eng. Bay-window, ii, fOO
" " Bull Inn, ii, JOO
" Doorway, VIII, 3
" Guildhall, VIII, 20
" " House at, ii, 94
Guildhall, Guildford, Eng., VIII, 20
Guiteau House, Trenton, N. Y., ii,
II
Gunston Hall in England, ii, 49
" " Va. Home of Geo.
Mason, ii, 44, 49,
50
" " Niche, i, 23
" Parlor Door, VI, 36
" " Staircase, ii, 54
Gustavus Adolphus, ii, 12
Guthrie. Dr. Samuel, ii, 7
Gymnasium, Cambridge, Mass
Hemenway, ii, 84
-H-
Hackensack, N. J., i, 13
" " Dutch Church,
i. 17
Hadfield. George. Architect, i, 19
Hadley, Mass. Porter House at,
I, 21,22; ii, 62, 64
fj~ , ' Goodman Cottage, Lenox, Mass., Hailsham, Eng. Vicarage, VIII, 7
JNewburyport, ii, 8^, 86 i Hall House «al„straHp MpHfnrH
Mass., i, 2 : ii, 72
Gate • house, Trinity Almshouse,
Deptford, Eng., VIII, 24
Gate-piers, Hampstead Marshall,
Eng., VIII, 9
Gate-posts, ii, 80: IV, 2; VII, 12
Gates : —
Burford, Eng., VIII, 29
Evesham, Eng., VIII, 29
Salisbury Close, Eng., VIII, 27
St. Giles, Oxford, Eng., VIII, 27
Temple, London, ii, J03
Westover, Va., i, 21 ; ii 40
Gates, N. Y. Mantels, II, 38
Gateway to Syon House, Eng.,
VIII, J5
Genesee, N. Y., ii, 2
" Valley Colonial Work, ii,
I
" " Hunt, ii, 2
" " settled by Mary-
landers, ii, 2
Geneseo, N. Y., ii, 5
Geneseo, N. Y. : —
Ayrault House, I, 32; ii, 6;
V, 5
Big Tree Inn, ii, 6
Court-house Door, V, 7
" Hampton," the Fitzhugh House,
ii, 6
Wadsworth House, i, 15; V, 5
Geneva, N. Y. : —
Block of Houses, ii, 3
Folger House, III, 9; ii. 3
Hobart College, N. Y., ii, 3
Tillman Block, ii, 3; V, 9
George II, ii, 21
III, ii, 16
Georgetown, D. C. Tudor House
III, 24
ii, 83. 86
Goose Creek, S. C. St. James's
Church, i, 24; 111,6
Gosliun, Conn. Norton House, II,
53, 54, 55, 56
" Gothic Kcvival. History of the."
P^astlake's, ii, 86
Grace Church, New York, N. V., ii,
4
Granary Burying-ground, Boston, i,
28
Granby, Ma.ss., ii, 71
Granger Place Seminary, Canan-
daigua, N. Y., ii, 3
Granite. Irish, ii, 1 11
Grant. Gen. U. S., ii, 7
" The MJTiisters', Lenox,
Ma,ss., ii, 83
Grattan's Statue, Dut)lin, ii, 11 1
Gravestones, Witney, Eng., VIII,
31
Gray. Miss Alice A., ii, 75
Great College St., Westminster.
Door-head in, ii, 90
" Ormond St.. London. Door-
way in, ii. 89
Wigsell, Eng. Mantel at,
VIII, 5
Greece, N. Y. Doorway on Ridge
Road, V, )5
Greek Beginnings, ii, 67
" Revival. The, i, 8, 13, 18;
ii, 2, 86
Greenbush, L. I. Van Rensselaer
Manor House,
i, 13
" " Van Rensselaer
House Door-
head, i, )2
Greenfield, Mass. Hollister House,
ii, 66
" " .Staircase, ii, 65
Green Spring. Va., ii, 2 i ; ii, 25
i Greenway C(nirt, ii, 44
Hall House Balustrade, Medford,
Mass, I, 7
Hallet, Architect, i, 19; ii, 48
Halls, i, 21
Hamilton. Andrew. Architect, i,
18
" Hall, Salem, Mass, IV,
8
" James. Architect, i, 18
" Mansion near Phila-
delphia. Details from
i, 14. 17
Hammond, William, ii, 59
Hampstead Marshall, Eng. Gate
Piers, VIII, 9
Hampton Court, Eng. River Front,
ii, 97; VIII, )2
" Va. St. John's Church,
i, 24
" Hampton," the Fitzhugh House,
Geneseo, N. Y., ii, 6
Hancock House, Boston, Mass, i, 3 ;
ii, 82
" John, i, 4
*' Thomas, i, 4
Handel at Little Stanmore Church,
ii. 95
Hanover, Va., Court-house, ii, 30
Hard Brick Hill, Ipswich, Mass., ii,
73
Harewood, Samuel Washington's
House, ii, 55, 56
Hargous House Mantel, Pittsford,
N. Y., I, 32
Harley St. The Prudery of, ii, 100
Harrison. Benjamin, ii, 40
" Mrs. George, ii, 28
*' Gov. John, ii, 40
" Peter. Architect, i, 10,
3^
Harrisons of Berkeley. The, ii, 40
Harvard College, ii, 19
Ilarwood House, Annapolis, Md.,
i, 19,20, 21,59; ii, 27,58
Hastings, Eng. Door-head, ii, 93
" " Pier Termination,
11,96; VIII, J7
Hatfield, Eng., ii, 83
" Mass. First Church, ii,
68
Haven House Mantel, Portsmouth,
N. H., VII, 23
Hawksmoor, Architect. Nicholas,
ii, 84, 94, 105
Hawthorne. Nathaniel, i, 34
Hay for Hair in Plaster, ii, 74
Hazard House, Newport, R. I.
Details of, i, 23, 24
Heartbreak Hill, Ipswich, Mass, ii,
73
Hemenway Gymnasium, Cam-
bridge, Mass., ii, 84
Henrico, Va., ii, 31
Henry. Patrick, ii, 17, 20, 29, 30
Heraldic Carvings, ii, 96; VIII, J7
Hibernian Academy of Art. John-
ston founds the Royal, ii, 1 1 1
High Wycombe, Eng. Town -hall,
ii, 98 ;
vin, 21
" " " M a n t e 1-
piece, ii,
93
Hill. Col. Edward, ii, 38
Hills House, Rochester, N. Y., II,
2,3,4
Ilingham, Mass. The " Old Ship "
Church, i, 9: IV, J7; ii, S3
Hipped Roofs, i, 4 ; ii, 66, 77
Historical Society, Ipswich, ii, 73
" " Medford, ii, 72
" " Newport, i, 31
" History of the Gothic Revival."
Eastlake's, ii, 86
Hoban. James. Architect, i, 19
Hobart College Building, Geneva,
N. Y., ii, 3
Hodges House, Salem, Mass., i, 8 ;
VII, 10, II
Holden Chapel, Cambridge, Mass.,
ii, 82, 84
Holland Company, ii, 5
" House, Eng., ii, 83
" Land Co., ii, 4, 10
" Purchase Office, Batavia,
N.Y., I, 33
HoUin Hall, Fairfax County, Va.,
ii. 52
Hollister House, Greenfield, Mass.,
ii. 64, 66
Holmes House, Cambridge, Mass.,
ii, 84
Homes of the Washington Family,
ii. 54
Homewood Stable, Baltimore, Md.,
i, 22
Hood, Ayrault House, Newport,
R. I., i, 6
The Shell, ii, 87; ii, 100 ;
VIII, 6, 8, 10
Tulip Hill, West River,
Md., i, 20
" Van Rensselaer Door-, i, J2
Hooper House. Danvers, Mass.
The " King" i, 4, 7
"King,"i, 7
Hope's Book. Thomas, ii, 86
Horse-racing, ii, 15
Horseshoe. The Knights of the,
Golden, ii, 20, 49
Horsmonden, Eng. Candelabrum,
ii, 101
Hospital, Abingdon, Eng., ii, 96, 98
" Dublin. The Rotunda,
ii, 109; VIII, 42
" Philadelphia, I'a. Penn-
svlvania, III, 1,2,3,4,
5',8;.IV,34;ii,7?, 80
Hospitals. Dublin, ii, 109
Hotel Cluny of a New England
Village, ii, 72
" " Paris, ii, 73
Houdon's Visit to Mount Vernon.
ii. 47
House-breaker's Yard. The, ii, 87
House of Burgesses. Virginia, ii, 14
ExPLA.SATION : — The first volume contains Parts l-IV, the second Pans V-Vlll. The volume is indicated by "i"_or "ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
Dumeralft. The full-page piateii ar.* indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
THE a HO KG I AX PERIOD.
House, Dublin. The o\d railianiem,
ii, I IJ
Grounds, Mount Vernon.
VI. 35
•• Hadley, Mass . I, 2 1
Old Stone. Riclimond, Va.,
III. 6
" of Seven Gables, Salem,
Ma-ss., i, 9
" Tyrone, ii, no
Houses of New England. The
Georgian, ii. Si
" on the Street. English
Georgian, ii, 97
Howard. Castle, ii, 94
Hubbard. Samuel. Diaryof, i, 31
Hulion House Staircase, Salem.
Mass.. VII, 5, 6
Hudson, i 12
Huguenot Refugees, ii, 14
Humanity of Doorways. The, ii,
99
Hunt. Genesee Valley, ii, 6
Robert, ii, 22
Hurd House, Charlestown, Mass.
Porch, i, 7
Hutchinson. Governor, ii, 62
-I-
Independence Hall, Philadelphia,
Pa., i, >8; IV, 21, 22, 23, 24,
25, 26, 27, 29
Indian. See " Ma-ssacre "
Indians, i, i
" Torture of Lieut. Thomas
Boyd by, ii, 5
Inlaid Mantelpieces. Bossi's, ii, 1 1 1
Inn Galleries. English, ii, 80
Inns: —
Big Tree, Geneseo, N. Y., ii, 6
Bull. Guildford, Eng., ii, J 00
Griffith's, Trenton, N. Y., ii, 1 1
King's, Dublin, ii, J09
See " Tavern "
Wayside. Sudbury, Mass., i, 2 ;
ii. 82
White Hart, Sali-sbury, Eng., ii,
96
Inns. English Coaching, ii, 96
Ipswich Historical Society, ii, 73
" Ma.ss. Whipple House, ii,
73,74
Ireland. Bank of, Dublin, ii, no,
ni
Irish Granite, ii, in
" Ironwork, ii, in
" Limestone, ii. in
Iron Foundries. The earliest, ii, 20
" Gates. English, ii, 103; VIII,
27,29
" Newel-posts, Varick St., New
York, N. Y , IV, J
Ironwork. Irish, ii, in
Isle of Hogges, Va., ii, 22
" " Wight, Va., ii, 23
Italian Artisans in Dublin. Work
of, ii, I II
" Rococo Ornament, i, 8
-J-
Jacka-sses given by Lafayette to
Wa.shington, ii, 47
Jaffrey House Cupboard, Ports-
mouth, N. IL, i, 8
Jail, Canandaigua, N. Y. Ontario
County, V, 4
Jamaica House, Bermondsey, ii, 80
" Plain, Mass. Curtis
House, ii, 82, 83
James I, ii, 32
" River, Va. Carter's Hall,
i, 2J
" " " Map of the, ii,
>3
" '* " Pigef)n-h o u s e,
i, 2J
Jamestown, Va., i, 19; ii, 13, 20
*' (,!hurch-tower, ii, 20
Jefferson. Thomas, i, 23; ii. 5. 17.
-^' j3- 34
Jennings House, Annapolis, Md.,
i. 20; ii, 59
Jemison, " The White Woman of
the Genesse." Mary, ii, I
Jesuit ^iissionaries, ii, i
Johnston, Architect. Francis, ii, i n
" founds the Royal Hibern-
ian Academy of Art, ii,
1 1 1
Jones. Inigo. Architect, ii. S4, 100
Uulse Walker I louse I'orch, Lenox,
>iass., VI II, 1
Jumel Mansion, New York, N. Y.,
i, 14
-K-
Kearsley. Dr. John. Architect,
i, 17, 18
Kenmore, Va., ii, 56
Kennedy House, Annapolis, ii, 59
Kennel. Washington's, ii, 47
Key of the Bastile, i, 3 J
King Carter, ii, 24, 34, 39
King's Chapel, Boston, i, 10 ; ii, 83
" " " Details, I,
J6, 17
Pulpit, i, 9; I, J5,
18, J9
College, New York, N. Y.,
i, iS
" Inn, Dublin, ii, 109, 1 10
Lynn, Eng., ii, 93
Kiquatan, ii, 31
Kittery, Me. The Pepperell Man-
sion, i, 4 ; ii, 82
Kneller. Portraits by Sir Godfrey,
ii, 38, 41
Knights of the Golden Horseshoe,
ii, 20, 49
Knockers, II, 52
— L,—
Ladd House, Portsmouth, N. H., ii,
82, 84
" " Staircase, Portsmouth,
N. H., VII, 24
Lafayette, ii, i, 45
Lake House. An English, VIII,
13
Lancaster County, Va. Christ
Church, ii, 24
Lane. Capt. Ralph, ii, 42
Lang, Jeffrey, House, Salem, Mass.,
VII, 31
Langdon House, Portsmouth, N. H.
Newel-post. Governor, i, 8 ; ii,
82
Langdon's House Balustrade, Ports-
mouth, N. H. Governor, i, 7
Langley's Architectural Book.
Batty, i, 5, 28 ; ii, 86
Lantern on Christ's Ho.spital, Ab-
ingdon, Eng., ii, 96, 98
Larcom. Lucy, ii, 73
Latin Book on Architecture. Dean
Aldrich's, ii, 94
Latrobe. Benjamin. Architect,
i, 19
Layout of English Suburban Towns.
The, ii, 97
Lee Gen. R. E., ii, 21
" Hall. Home of Richard Lee,
ii, 50
" House, Marblehead, Mass., ii,
82
" " Staircase, Marblehead,
Mass., 1, 27
" Thomas, ii, 21
Lefferts Homestead, Brooklyn,
N. v., i, J 2
'.' House Doorway, IV, 4
Leicester House, Dublin, ii, iio
L'Enfant. Maj. Pierre, i, 17; ii, 60
Lenox, Mass. Church, ii, 70
" " Court-house, ii, 70,
71
" " Goodman Cottage,
ii, 83, 86
Lenox, Mass. Judge Walker
House Porch,
ii, 83; VIII, J
" " Ministers' Grant.
The, ii, 83
Le Roy. Herman, ii, 5
" " House, Le Roy, N. Y.,
"> 4, 5
Leviness House, City Island, N. Y.,
ii, 77
Lewes, Eng. Offices on High St.,
", 94, 97
" Shop-front at, ii, 100
Lewis, Lawrence, Husband of Nellie
Custis, ii, 47, 49
Lewisham, Eng. Vicarage at, ii, 94
Library, Boston, Ma,ss. Old Public,
i, 7
" Oxford, Eng., Radcliffe, ii,
94. 98
Limestone. Hard Irish Blue, ii, n i
Lincoln preserves " I^ower Bran-
don." President, ii, 28
Link -extinguisher, ii, 87
Litchfield, Conn. The Deming
House, i, 5
" " Porch, i, 6
" " Stair-rail, i, 8
Little Harbor, N. IL Wentworth
House, ii, 82, 86
" Mantel in Office of Arthur,
I, 14
" Stanmore, Eng. Chuich at,
". 95
Livezey's House, Philadelphia, Pa.,
i, 15
Livingston Park Seminary, Roches-
ter, N. Y., ii, 3
Lloyd. Governor, ii, 59
Log-houses, i, i, 12
London Company. The, ii, 31
London : —
Chippendale's Shop. Door of,
ii, 104
Christ Church, Newgate, ii, io6;
VIII, 37
" " Spitalfields, ii, 94,
105; VIII, 39,
40
City Churches, ii, 98
Door-heads, ii, 87
Doorways, ii, 87, 90, 91
Garden House, Clement's Inn,
VIII, 30
Greyfriars' Church, ii, ]o6
Newgate Prison, ii, 106
St. James's Church, Piccadilly,
i, 10, 32 ; ii, 105
St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, i, 10,
17; ii, 86, 94
St. Mary-le-Strand, ii, 94, 104,
105; VIII, 32, 33, 34
St. Mary's Woolnoth, ii, 94
St. Paul's, Old, ii, 84
Staircase in Devon.shire Square,
VIII, 26
Street-plan. Sir C. Wren's, ii, 60
Temple Gate, ii, )03
Trinity Grand Almshouse, VIII,
22
Wren's House. Sir C, ii, 104
York Building, ii, 89
Longfellow House, Cambridge,
Ma.ss., i, 4, 6, 12 ; ii, 82
Long Island, N. Y. Dutch House,
i, 12
Longleat, Eng., ii, 83
Longmeadow, Mass. Samuel Col-
ton's House, ii, 62, 63
Long.swamp Old Church, Mertz-
town, Pa., i, iS
Lord House Porch, Salem, Mass.,
VH, 25
" Timothy Dexter's House,
Newburyport, Mass., ii, 78
Ijost Boy. Story of the, ii, 4
Louis Philippe at Canandaigua,
N. v., ii, I, 2
Lowell's House, Cambridge, Mass.
J. R., i, 5
Lower Brandon, Va., ii, 27, 28
Lumber. Pearly sawed, i, i
Lundy's Lane. Battle of, ii, 4
-M —
Mabee House, Schenectady. N. Y.,
ii, 9
Madeira Wine, ii, 52
Madison and Dolly Todd. James,
".55
" Barracks, Sackett's Har-
bor, N. v., ii, 7
" N. J. Old House, ii, 9
Mahogany Rails, i, 21
Mahone. General, ii, 23
Maidstone, Eng. Banks Almshouse,
ii, 96, 99
Manchester-by-the-Sea, Ma.ss. Con-
gregational Church Steeple, i, JO
Mangin, French Draughtsman, i, 18
Mann. Mary, ii, 17
Manor. Van Rensselaer. Albany,
N. Y.,i, 13,14,15
" House, Greenbush, L. I.
Van Rensselaer,
i. 13
" " Philipse, Yonkers,
N. v., II, 24,
25, 26, 27, 28,
29
" Wandsworth, Eng., VIII,
14, 16, 18
Mansion House, Albany, N. Y.
Van Rensselaer, i, 13
Mantelpieces, i, 22, 42 ; V, 4, 8, 9,
13; VI, 5, 7, 14;
VII, 9, 20
" inlaid by Italian
Workmen. Dub-
lin, ii, in
Mantelpieces : —
In Ayrault House, Geneseo,
N. Y., I, 32
" Bellingham-Cary House, Chel-
sea, Mass., II, 49, 50
" Bicknell House, Rochester,
N. v., II, 5
" Blackford House, Fairfax Co.,
Va., I, 10
" Carlyle House, Alexandria,
Va., Ill, J8
" Cazanove, Alexandria, Va., i,
22
" Isaac Cook House, Brookline,
Mass., II, 18
" Culver House, Brighton, N. Y.,
V, 8
at Danversport, Mass., VII, 21
in Erasmus Hall, Brooklyn,
N. v., IV, 7
" Essex House, Salem, Mass.,
Ill, 13
" Forrester House, Salem,
Mass., I, 13
at Gates, N. Y., II, 38
" Great Wigsell, Eng., VIII, 5
in Hargous House, Pittsford,
N. v., 1, 32
" Haven House, Portsmouth,
N. IL, VII, 23
" High Wycombe, Eng.. ii, 93
" Isaac Hills House, Rochester,
N. Y., II, 4
" House on S. 3d St., Philadel-
phia, Pa., IV, 28
" Mappa House, Trenton, N. Y.,
V, 19,20,21
" Mayor's Office, South Mol-
ten, Eng., VIII, 5
" Morris House, Philadelphia,
Pa., HI, 23
" Mt. Pleasant, Philadelphia,
Pa., IV, 36
" Mumford House, Rochester,
N. Y., II, 4
" Myers House, Norfolk, Va.,
VI. 16, 17, 18
" Nichols House, Salem, Mass.,
HI, 14, 15
ExiLANATios : — The first voluiiie contains Parts I-IV, the second Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or "ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-lace
numerals. The fuil-page i-lates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
GENERAL INDEX OE TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
XX
Mantelpieces : —
In Norton House, Goshen,
Conn., II, 53, 56
" Octagon House, Washington,
D. C, III, J2, 16, J7
" Office of Lamb & Rich, New-
York, N. Y., Ill,
19
" " " Arthur Little, i, I4
" Oliver House, Salem, Mass ,
VII, 14
" P h i I i p s e Manor House,
Yonkers, N. V., II, 25, 26,
" Pingree House, Salem, Mass ,
IV, 6
" Sharritt's House, Baltimore
Md., VI., J3
" Shirley Parlor, VI, 32
" Thompson House, Charles-
town, Mass., II, 8
at Tuckahoe, ii, 33
in Upsal House, Germantown,
Pa., VI, 2, 3
"Van Rensselaer Mansion,
Albany, N. Y., i, J 3
" Waitt Place, Barnstable,
Ma.ss., HI, J9
" Westover, Va., I, 22
" Williams House, Boston,
Mass., II, 14, 16
" Williamsburg, Va., i, 23
" Wister House, Germantown,
Pa , VI, 8
" Workingwomen's Bureau,
Salem, Mass., I, 14
at Woodlawn, Va., VI, 25, 26
Manuscript. The Mason, ii, 50
Map of the James River, Va., ii, 13
Mappa. Col. Adam G., ii, 10
" House, Trenton, X. Y., ii.
10; V, )4, 16, 17, 18,
19,21,22
" John, ii, 10
Marblehead, Ma.ss. Jeremiah Lee's
House, ii, 82
" Staircase in Lee
House. I, 27
Market, Newport, R. I., i, 1 1
" Rochester, N. Y., ii, 1
Market -town Town -halls. Small
English, ii, 95
Marlboro, Va., ii, 50
Martin's Brandon, Va., ii. 32
Maryland Manor House. A, i, 19
Maryland's First Capital, ii, 58
Marx House, Annapolis, Md., ii, 4
Mason of Gunston, ii, 48
" George C Architect, i, 10
" George, " Wisest Man of his
Generation," ii, ^4
" Mrs. Col., ii, 9
Mason's Manuscrijjt. Gen., ii, 50
Massachusetts. Colonial Architect-
ure in Western,
ii, 61
•' Hall, Cambridge,
Mass., ii, 82
Massacre. Indian, ii, 14. 38, 62
" James River, ii, 32
Matrons, College of. Salisbury,
Eng., ii. 96;VIII, 23
Maury. Rev. Mr., ii, 30
" Mayflower " Furniture, ii, 84
McBean, Architect, i, 17
McComb. John, Architect, i, 17,
18
McDowell Hall, Annapolis, Md., ii,
60
McKim, Mead & White, .Vrchitects,
'■ 23
Mclean Asylum Building, Somer-
ville, Mass., ii,
84
" " Stairs. The, ii,
79. S5
Medford Historical Society, ii, 72
" Mass., Brickyards, ii, 77
" " Cradock House, i,
2, 3; ii. -2. Si
" " Garrison House,
ii, 72
Medford, Mass. Hall House Balus-
trade, i, 7
" Koyall House, I,
2, 3, 4, 5, 6;
ii> 72, 82
Meeting-house. See •• Church."
" Burlington, N. J.
Friends', i, 9
First, i, 3s
The, ii, 67
Meetmghouses. Selling, ii, 70
Memorial Tablet in Atherington,
Eng. Church, ii, J04
Mennonites, i, 15
Mertztown, Pa. Longswamp Re-
formed Church, i, 18
Metalwork. English Georgian, ii,
98
Methodist Episcopal Church,
Waterloo, N. Y., i, 17
Middle Plantation, ii, 13
" Provinces, i, 1 1
Middlesex, Eng. Entrance Screen
to Syon House, VIII, 15
Military Homes, i, I, 2
Millwood, Va. Carter Hall, ii, 34
Ministers' Grant, Lenox, Mass.
The, ii, 83
Mirror Frame, I, 31
Mohawk Valley, N. Y., ii, 10
Monastery, Ephrata, Pa., IV, J 8
" I'hiladelphia, Pa., i, 15
Monticello, Charlottesville, Va., i,
23
Monument, UubHn. The Nelson,
ii. III
Monumental Church, Richmond,
Va., HI, 11
Moravians, i, 15
Morris House, New York, N. Y , i,
J3
" " Philadelphia, Pa.,
in, 20, 21, 22,
23
" " Washington buys
the, ii, 47
" Reserve. The, ii, 4
" Robert, ii, 4
Mossom. Rev. Mr., ii, 25
Moulded Clapboards, ii, 64
Mount Airy; House of the Tayloes,
i, 29 ; ii, 50
Julian, Fishkill, X. Y., i, 25
" Malado, Va., ii, 32
" Morris, N. Y., ii, 2, 5
" Pleasant Mansion, Philadel-
phia, Pa., IV, 30, 32, 33,
35,36
" Vernon Ladies Association,
ii, 48
" Va., 11,27,41,44,45,
4S, 54; VI, 33,
34,35
-Moving Churches, ii, 68
Mulberry Trees, ii, 14
.Mumford House Mantel, Rochester,
N. Y., II, 4
Munday. Richard, Architect, i, 10
The Salem, i, 36
Architect. William, ii.
Northbrook St.,
.Murd
Murray.
1 1 1
Murravs
ii. 57
Myers House. Norfolk, Va. Barton,
ii, 43; VI. 12, 15, 16, 17, 18
Acton, the Home of the.
-N —
Narbonne House, .Salem, Mass., ii,
62
Narragansett. R. I. Church, i, 9
Navy reserves large Trees. Royal,
ii, 64
Nelson House, Yorktown, Va., ii,
19
*' Mrnuinient. Dublin. Archi-
tect of, ii. Ill
Thomas, ii, 9
New Amsterdam Government, ii,
10
Newlmrv. Eng. Bridge at, ii, 98;
Vlll,'25
Newbury, Eng,
ii, 98
Newburyport, Mass. : —
Collins House, ii, 72
Garrison House, i, 2 ; ii, 72
Timothy, Lord Dexter's House,
ii, 78
Newby Hall, Yorks, Eng., ii, 96
New-castle, Eng. Dormers, i, 12
Newel-posts, i, 8; IV, I • V, 15•
VI, 9 ; VII, 2, 5, 8, 1 1
New- England. Georgian Houses,
ii, 81
New-gate Prison, Dublin, ii, no
" London, Eng., ii, 106
New Haven, Conn.: —
Old North, II, 10
Steeple of First Church, II, 10
New- Kent Co., Va. St. Peter's
Church, ii, 25
Newport New-s, ii, 32
Newport, R. I. : —
Ayrault House Hood, i, 6
Gov. Bull House, i, 2
Christopher G. Champlin House,
1,32
City-hall, i, J 1
Hazard House, Details, I, 23, 24
Historical Society, i, 31
Seventh Day Baptist Cnurch Pul-
pit. i, 31 : I. 20
State-house, i, 10, 1 1 ; ii, 83
Synagogue, i, 10
Town-hall, i, 10, 1 1
Trinity Church, i, 32
" " Pulpit, i, 10
New State-house, Boston. The, i,
1 1
" Sweden, Del., i, 15
New York, N. Y. : —
Apthorpe House, i, 14
" Brick Church," i, 17
Bull's Head Tavern, i, (9
City hall, i, 17, 18; II, 30, 34,
35, 36, 37, 48
Door-head. A, i, 12
Dutch Cottage, i, l4
Iron Newel-posts on Varick St.,
IV, 1
Jumel Mansion, i, 14
King's College, i, 18
Morris House, i, 13
Oldest House in, i, 16
Old Trinity Church, i, 16
St. John's Chapel, i, 17; IV, 16
St. Paul's Chapel, i, lO; IV, 10,
n, 12, 13
Sub-trea.sury, i, 18
Niches, i, 22, 23
Nichols House, Salem, Mass., VII,
10
" " Door, VII, 22
" " Mantel, HI, J4, 15
Nicholson. Gov., ii, 13
" Sir Francis, ii, 15
Nicholson-Pierce House Door-head,
Salem, Mass., i, 8
Nieuw Amsterdam, i, II
Nogging. Brick, ii, 74, 76
Nomini, House of Robert Carter,
Northampton, Eng. All Saint s'
Church, ii, gc ;
VUI, 15
" Mass., ii, 61, 62
" " Attempt to
sell the
Meeting-
house, ii, 70
" " First Church,
ii, 68, 69,
70
North Church, Boston, Mass. Old
ii, 81,83
" " New Haven, Conn.
Old, II, 10
" Runcton, Eng., ii, 93
Northern and Southern Peculiari-
ties. Some, ii, 76
Northiam, Sussex, Eng. Candela-
bnim at, ii, 101
Norton House, Goshen, Conn., II,
53, 54, 55, 56
Nott. Tomb of Gov. Williams-
burg, Va., ii, J 6
-o-
11, 50
Noon -house. The, ii, 71
Norfolk, Va., ii, 42
" " bombarded by Lord
Dunmore, ii, 42
Norfolk, Va. : —
Freeman House, VI, 19
House of Barton Mvers, ii, 43;
VI, 12, 15, 16, J7, 18
Porcli of the Gen. Gage House,
111,27
St. Bride's, ii, 43
" Paul's Church, ii, 42
Typical Porches, VI, 2J
Norman's " Timm ami Country
Bidlihr's Assistant,'' ii, 65
Oatlands, Loudon County, Va ii
43
Octagon House, Washington,
D. C, i, 28
" " Mantels, III, 12,
J6, 17
Plan, III, 17
Office of the Holland Purchase,
Batavia, N. Y., I, 33
" Front, Lewes, Eng., 94, 97
" Register, Dublin, ii, iii
Old Bailey Prison, London, ii, J06
" Corner Bookstore, Boston,
Mass., ii, 82
" Manse, Concord, Mass., i, 3
" North Church, Boston, Mass.,
ii, 81, 83
" " " New Haven,
Conn., II, 10
" Parliament House, Dublin, ii,
111
" St. Paul's, London, ii, 84
" Ship Church, Ilingham, Mass.,
i, 9; IV, 17; ii, 83
" South Church, Boston, Mass.,
i, 10, 26; IV, 14, 15
" State-house, Boston, Mass., i,
10, II; II, 46,47; ii, 72,83
" Stone House," Guilford, Conn.,
i, 1,2
" (Swedes') Church, Wil-
mington, Del., i, 17
" Sw-edes' Church, Philadelphia,
Pa., i, 18; V, Jl, 12
Olden Barneveld, N. Y., li, 10
Oldest House in New York City,
i, 16
Oliver House, Dorchester, Mass.,
i, 5
" " Salem, Mass., VII,
12, 14
Olmsted. F. L., ii, 5
' Oneida." Brig, ii, 7
Orkney. Earl of, ii, 16
Orr. Tomb of Hugh. Williams-
burg. Va., ii, 16
Osborne House. Nehemiah.
Rochester, N. Y., ii, 2
Osgood House Door, Salem, Mass.,
VII, )9
Oulton Hall, Cheshire, Eng., ii, 97
Overhanging Stories, ii, 64
Overhang of the Eaves, i, 13
Ovid, N. Y. Mantel in Indefemlent
Office, V,
J3
" " " State Road
H o V s e ,
V, 13
All Saints' Church,
Oxford, Eng.
11, 94
Iron Gate, St. Giles,
VIH. 27
RatUliffe Library, ii,
94- 98
Exi'i.ANATi. n: — The first volume contains Paris I-IV, the second Farts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or "ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating tlie Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in tha» Part
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Piers. Hamjistead Marshall, Eng.
Gate. VIII. 9
Piffard House, Piffard. N. V., ii, 5
I'iffards. ii. 5
Pieeon Cove, Mass. Old House at,
i. 4
House, Shirley, i. 21; ii. 36
Pike. Gen. Zebulon. ii, 7
Pineapple-House Door, Salem,
Mass., VII, J9
Pine's Portrait of Washington, ii,
■♦7
Pingree House, Salem, Mass.. i, 35
Mantels, IV, 6
Pittsburijh. Pa., Uoorway on Liberty
St., in, JO
Pittsford, N. V., Mantel in Ilargous
House, I, 32
Plastered Houses, i, 2
Plaster of Clay, Sand and Salt Hay,
ii, 74
Plate-warmer, II, 18
Plymouth, Mass. Winslow House,
11,82,84,85; vin, 2
Pocahontas, ii, 31
" Font, ii, 16
Pohick Church, Va., ii, 25, 44, 48,
5° .
Poj>ulation of Dublin, ii, 107
Porches, i. 6, 20; IV, 35; VII, J2,
)5, 16,22
Porch Plans, i, 6
Porches : —
Alton, Hants, Eng., ii, 92
Hrentford, Eng., ii, J02
Childs House, Rochester, N. Y.,
11,6
Culver House, Brighton, N. Y.,
I, J
General Gage House, Norfolk,
Va., Ill, 27
Groombridge Place, near Tun-
bridge-Wells, Eng., ii, J03
Gunston Hall, ii, 52
Ilurd House, Charlestown, M;tss.,
i, 7
Isaac Hill's House, Rochester,
N. v., II, 2
Litchfield, Conn., i, 6
Norton House, Goshen, Conn.,
11,54
"Old Ship" Church, Hingham,
Mass., IV, J 7
Petworth, Eng., VHI. 3
Salem, Mass., VI 1, (8, 22, 25, 27
Shirley, Va., ii, 38
Shreve House, Salem, Mass.,
VII, )7
Smith House, Brighton, N. Y.,
ii, J
Taylor House, Roxbury, Mass.,
i, 6
\Valker House, Leno.x, Mass.
Judge, VIII, )
Williams House, Boston, Mass.,
II, J), J2
Woodlawn, Va., VI, 22
PorterHouse, Iladley, Mass., I, 22;
ii, 64
Portland-stone Dressings, Dublin,
ii. III
Portraits of Washington, ii, 38, 47
Portsmouth, .NMI.,ii, 57
Portsmouth, N. II.: —
Balustrade from Governor
Langdon's House, i, 7
Cupboard in Jaffrey House, i, 8
Door-head, i, 6
Ladd House, VII, 24; ii, 82, 84
Langdon House, i, 7, 8 ; ii, 82
Mantel in Haven House, VII, 23
Old Cottage at, i, 4
" Custom-house Door, I, )2
Post-office, Dublin. The General,
ii, III
" Powder Horn," Williamsburg, Va.,
ii, 19, 20
Powder seized at Williamsburg, ii,
19
Expr.ASATioN:— Th..- first volume contains Parts I-JV, the secnd Parts V-VIlT^
numerals. 1 lie lull i.age [jlates are jntlicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and
— P —
Paca House, Annapolis, Md., ii, 27 ;
VII. I
Pagan Creek, ii, 22
Page. John, ii, 14, 16
Mann, ii, 35
Matthew, ii, 17
Pain's. William. Architectural
Book, i. 5. 2S; ii, 86
Palace. Hampton Court, ii. 97
Palladian Dictum about Doors.
The, ii, 99
" Windows, i. 5, 7. 21 ; II,
20, 42, 54; IV. 21;
VII, 16
Palladianism. Inigo Jones's, ii, 100
Pamunkey Indians, ii, 39
Park, B.ath, Eng. Prior, ii, 95
" Street Church, Boston, i, 9,
10
" Wanstead, Eng., ii, 105
Parliament Houses, Dublin. The
old, ii, m
Parsons' Contest. The, ii, 30
Patch. Sam. ii. i
Patriotic Societies, ii, 72
Peabody. Col. Francis, i, 36
" George, i, 36
•* House. Salem. Mass.
Geo., VII. 13
Peale's Portrait of Washington, ii,
38
Penn. William, ii, 12
Penn's Boxwood Trees, i, 15
Penn.sylvania Hospital, Philadel-
phia, Pa., Ill, 1, 2,3, 4, 5, 8;
IV, 34 ; ii. 79, 80
Pepperell Mansion, Kittery, Me.,
i, 4 ; ii, 82
Pequannock, Conn. The Avery
House, i, 3
Peterboro' and Evelyn Byrd.
Lord, ii, 41
Petersburg founded by Colonel
Byrd, ii, 41
Petworth, Eng. Porch at, VIII, 3
Phelps and Gorham. Messrs., ii. 4
" " " P u r c h a s e,
ii, 2
Phil.\delphia, Pa.: —
Bartram House. John, IV, 9
Carpenteni' Hall, HI, 31, 32
Christ Church, i, 17, 18; ii, 12;
11,42,43,44,45; IV, 31
Cupolas of Pennsylvania Hospi-
tal, IV, 34
Independence Hall, i, 18; IV,
21, 22,23,24,25,26,27,29
Livezey's House, i, 15
Mantels in House on S. 3d Street,
IV, 28
Monastery, i, 1 5
Morris House, 111,20,21,22,23
Mount Pleasant Mansion, IV,
30, 32, 33, 35, 36
Old Swedes Church, i, 18; ii, 12;
V, 11, 12
Pennsylvania Hospital, III, ), 2,
3,4,5,8; IV, 34; ii, 79, 80
Ridgeway Library, i, 19
Solitude, VI, 10,' 11
St. Peter's P. E, Church, i, 17 ; ii,
12; V,3,6
Woodford House, VI, 4, 5
Zion Church, i, 17
Philipse Manor House, Yonkers,
N. v., i, 14; 11,24,25,26,27,
28, 29
Phillips House Window, Salem,
Mass., IV, 5
Photographer. Galsworthy Davie,
ii, 96
Piano. Oakland, Cal., I, 30
Piazzas, ii, 80
Pickering House, Salem, Ma-ss., i,
33, 34, .35
Pickman House, Salem, Mass., VII
16
Pier Termination, Carlisle Parade,
Ha.stings, Eng., VIII, J7
Powhatan, ii, 31
Powhatan's Chimney, ii, 26
Pre.-icott, i, 34
President's House, Cambridge,
Mass., ii, 82
Prince Arthur's Visit, i, 36
Pringle House, S. C. Gov. Bull,
i, 20
Prior Park, Bath, Eng., ii, 95
Prison, Newgate, Dublin, ii, no
" " London, ii, 106
Providence, R. I. Doorway in, i, 7
" " Typical Houses,
111,30
Province House, Boston, Mass., ii,
82
Prudery of Harley St. The, ii, 105
Public Architecture in the South,
i, 22
" " of the Middle
Provinces, i,
16
" Library, Boston, Mass.
Old, i, 7
Pulpits, IV, 12,31; ii, 98
Pl'I.riTS : —
Christ Church, Alexandria, Va.,
11,21,22
Gloria Dei, Philadelphia, ii, 12
King's Chapel, Boston, Mass., i,
9; I, 15, 18, 19
Newport, R. I., i, 32
Old Meeting-house, Sandown,
N. H., I, 7
St. Peter's P. E. Church, Phila-
delphia, V, 6
Seventh Day Baptist Church,
Newport, R. I., I, 20
Trinity Church, Newport, R. I.,
i, 10
Puncheon Floors, i, 20
" Pavements, ii, 30
Punishments. Governor Dale's
severe, ii, 38
Putnam and the First Meeting-
house at Salem. Eben.,
',35
" House, Danvers, Mass.
The General, i, 4
Putney, Eng. Doorway of the P'air-
fax House, VIII, 6
Pyncheon Fort, Springfield, Ma.ss.,
ii, 62
" John, ii, 62
-Q-
Quaker Meeting-house, Burlington,
N. J., i, 9
Quakers, i, 15
Quarrels over Church Sites, ii, 71
Quarters. Servants', i, 20; ii, 27;
VI, 34
Quays. Dublin, ii, 108
Quebec, ii, 47
(,)ueen Anne, ii, 81
" " Statues of, ii, 105
" Anne's Gate, Westminster,
Eng. Doorway in,
ii, 89
" " Gold Communion
Service, ii, 16
" of the Pamunkeys, ii, 39
Queen's Square, London. Door-
way in, ii, 90
Quilter's Chimney. Mark, ii, 75
Qiiincy Mansion, Quincy, Mass., i,
3, 5 ; ii, 82
-K-
Racing, ii, 25
Radcliffe Library, Oxford, Eng., ii.
94, 98
Raisings. Rum at, ii, 71
Raleigh Tavern, ii, 17
Randolph. Ann, ii, 17
" Hon. Peyton, ii, 19
Randolphs, Tuckahoe, a Home of
the, ii, 33
Ratcliffeboro, S. C. St. Paul's
Church, III, 11
Rebellion. Bacon's, ii, 49
Rebuilding of Bath, Eng., ii, 95
" " Blandford, Eng., ii,
98
Red Horse Inn, Sudbury, Mass., i,
Redwood Library, Newport, R. I.,
1,32
Register Office, Dublin. The, u,
III
Removal of Church Galleries, ii,
105
Renaissance. Blomfield's Book on
English, ii, 93
Revere House, Boston, Mass. The
Paul, i, 4
Review. The Architectural, ii, 99
Revival. Eastlake's History of the
Gothic, ii, 86
" The Greek, i, 8, 13, 18;
ii, 2, 86
" The Roman, ii, 86
Riccabecrian Indians defeat CoL
Hill, ii, 39
Richland, Home of the Brents, ii,
50
Richmond, Va. : —
Founded by Col. Byrd, ii, 41
Monumental Church, III, jl
Old Stone House, III, 6
State-house, i, 23
Van Lew House, ii, 34
Ridgway Library, Philadelphia, Pa.,
i, 19
Riding-schools. British, i, 32
Riedesel House, Cambridge, Mass.,
ii, 82
Riverdale, Md. Baltimore House,
VI, 28, 29, 30, 31
River Front of Hampton Court
Palace, Eng, VIII, J 2
Roads of Dublin. The Circular, ii,
108
Rochambeau, ii, 45
Rochester, N. Y. : —
Bicknell House Mantels, II, 5
Childs House Cornice, II, 1
" Porch, II, 6
Eagle Tavern, ii, 3
Griffith House Entrance, ii, 2
Hills House Dooiway. Isaac, II,
3
" " Mantel. Isaac, 11,4
" " Porch. Isaac, II, 2
Livingston Park Seminary, ii, 3
Market, ii, 1
Mumford House Mantel, II, 4
Rockwell House, Lenox, Mass.
The Judge, ii, 83; VIII, 1
Rococo Ornament, i, 8
Rogers Manse, Ipswich, Mass., ii, 75
T. Mellon, Architect, i, 18
Rolfe. John, ii, 16, 31
Roman Catholic Blessing. The, ii,
lOI
" Revival. The, ii, 86
Roof -balustrades, i, 6, 12
Roof-frame of Mappa House, Tren-
ton, N. v., ii, 10
Roof of Old South Church, Boston,
Mass., IV, 15
Roof-lanterns, ii, 96
Roof -truss of Octagon House,
Washington,
D. C, i, 29
" " Seventh Day Baptis
Church, Newpor.
i-32
Roofs, i, 4
" Deck, ii, 77
Flat, i, 21
" Gable, ii, 82
" Gambrel, i, 4, 12 21 j ii, 64,
82
" Hipped, i, 4 ; ii, 66, 77
" Thatched, ii, 62, 68 '
The volume is indicated by "i" or "ii."
bold-face figures showing the location of the
All illustrations are indicated bv bold-face
plate in that Part.
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
Rosewell, Whitemarsh, Va., i, 21;
ii, 16, 17, 35; VII, 4
Rotunda, Citv-liail, New York,
N. Y„ II, 30,36,37
" Hospital, Dublin, ii, 105 ;
VIII, 42
Roxbury, Mass. Steeple of First
Unitarian
Church, i, JO
" " Taylor House, i,
* . . .. , 65 IV, J9, 20
«oyal Arms, u, 96; VIII, J7
" Exchange, Dublin, ii, 1 10
" Hibernian Academy of Arts,
ii. III
Royal! House, Medford, Mass,, I,
2, 3, 4, 5, 6; ii, 72. 82
Rum for Raisings, ii, 71
Rumford, Count, i, 34
" House Balustrade, i, 7
" " Dormer, i, 7
Rumford's Ball-room. Count, ii, 77
" House, Woburn, Mass,
Count, i, 6
Rye, Sussex, Eng, Ahar-table, ii, 98,
J 02
" " Bay-window, ii, 97, 98
" " Garden-house, ii, 97
" " Tow-n-hall, 11,96; VIII
J9
-8 —
Saal and Saron, Ephrata, Pa., i, J6 •
IV, J 8
Sabbatarian Society of Newport, i,
3'
Sabine Hall, Richmond Co,, Va,, ii,
43
Sackett. August, ii, 8
" House, Sackett's Harbor,
N. v., ii, 8j III, 25,
26
Sackett's Harbor, N, Y,, ii, 7
" " Camp House, V,
)0
" " Sackett House,
HI. 25, 26
•* " WoolsL-y House,
III. 25. 26
SafFord House, Salem, Mass., VII,
J3,25
St. Bride's, Norfolk, Va.. ii, 43
St. Cros.s, Winchester, Eng. Bay-
window, ii, 100
St. Dunstan's Church, Cranbrook.
Eng. Royal Arms in, VIII. J 7
St. George's Church, Dublin, ii, i ii
St. Giles, Oxford, Eng. Iron Gate,
VIII, 27
St. James's Church, Picadilly, I-on-
don. i, 10, 32 ;
ii, 105
•• " " Goose Creek,
•S, C. i, 24;
III. 6
St John's Chapel. New \ork, X. V..
i. 17; IV. J6
** " College, Annap<jlis, Md.,
i, 23; ii, 60
" " Richmond, Va., ii. 34
St. Luke's Church, Smithfield, i, 23;
ii, 20. 22. 23
St. Peter's P. E. Church, Philade!
phia. Pa., i, 17; ii, 12; V, 3, 6
St. Sepulchre, London, ii, 26
Salaries paid in Tobacco, ii, 15, 24,
Salem, Mass. : —
Backyard. A, i, 34
Bertram Home for Aged Men,
VII, 31
Box-stairs, ii, 78
Brooks House Staircase, VII, 6
Cabot House, VII, 7, 8, 9
Cadet Armory, i, 36
Custom-house, i. 10, J J, 34
Derby House, VII, 7
Door-head. A, i, 8
Doorways, VII, J 9, 22
Emerton House, VII, J 6
Essex House Mantel, III, J3
" Institute, i, 36
First Meeting-house, i, 35
Forrester House Mantel, I, J3.
vn, j5
Furniture, IV, 3
(Jate posts, IV, 2
Hamilton Hall, IV, 8
Hodges House Newel-post, i, 8;
VII, JO, u
House of Seven Gables, i, 9
1 lubon House Staircase, VII, 5, 6
Mantel in Working Women's
Bureau, I, J 4
Murder. The White, i, 36
Nichols House, III, J4, J5 ; VII,
JO
Nicholson- Pierce House Door-
head, i, 8
Oliver House, VII, J2, J4
I'eabody House. Gov., VII, J3
Pickering House, i, 33, 34, 35
Pingree House, i, 35; IV, 6
Plaster Ceiling, i, 8
Porches, VII, 25, 27
Safford House, VII, J3, 25
Shreve House Porch, VII, J7
Six Hours in, i, "^"j
■South Church, VII, 33
Staircase, 125 Derby St., VII, 2,
Typical House. A, i, 35
Waller House, VII, 29
Window of l'hilli])s House, IV, 5
Witch House, i, 4
Sai.isI!|:ry, ICnc. : —
College of Matrons, ii, 96; VIII,
23
House in the Close, ii, 95; VIII,
28
Iron Entrance-gate. VIII, 27
White Hart Inn, ii, 96
.Salt Hay for Hair in Plaster, ii, 74
Sandown, N. H. Door to Old Meet
ing-house, I, 8
" " Pulpit in, I, 7
.Sandys, Sir P^dwin, ii, 32
" George, ii, 32
" Sends Women to the Col
onies, ,Sir E., ii, 31
Saw-mills. Early, i, i
" Scarlet Letter"' \, 34
Scenic Wall-])aper, i, 8; ii, 9
St. Martin's-in-the- Fields, Ixjndon, Schenectady, \. V. Mabee House,
i, TO, 17; ii. 86, 94 [ ii. 9
St. Mar)'-le Strand. I^ndon. ii, 94.
104, 105; VIII. 32,33, 34
St. Marj's City, Mar) land's !•' i r s t
C'apital, ii, 58
" " Woolnoth, Ixjndon, ii,
94
St. Memin, Portraits by. ii. 38
St. Paul's Chapel. New York, N. Y..
i, lO; IV, JO, Jl, 12,
J3
•• " Church, Ivr)ndon. ( Md, ii,
84
« " Norfolk. Va.. ii. 42
" « Ratclifleboro, S. C, III,
Jl
St. Peter's Church. New Kent Co.,
Va., ii, 25
School-house, Cranbrook, Eng., ii,
95
" Dul)lin. Blue-coat,
ii, 112; VIII, 44
Schuyler. Montgomery, i, 18
Scott. Gen. Winfield, ii, 4
" House Stair-end, Amia-
polis, Md., i, 22
Screen at Syon House, Middlesex,
Eng. Entrance, ii, 95; VIII, J5
Seal of the State of Virginia, ii, 54
Secular Buildings, i, 10
Selling Meeting-houses, ii, 70
Seminary, Granger Place. Can an
daigua, N. Y., ii, 3
" Livingstone Park, Ro
Chester, N. Y., ii, 3
Senate-house, Cambridge, Eng., ii,
94
Seneca Lake, ii, 3
Sergeant. Peter, ii, 82
Serpentine Wall. Jefferson's, i, 23
Service's Patent, ii, 10
Seton House, Washington, D. C,
I. 28, 29
Seven Gables. House with, i, 34
Seventh Day Baptist Church, New-
port, R. I., i, 31 ; I,
20
" " Baptists, i, 15
Seymour. Atty. Gen., ii, 19
" Horatio, ii, 10
Sharrett's House Mantels, Balti-
more, Md., VI, 13
Shell Door-heads, i, 5, 21 ; ii, 87,
100; VIII, 6, 8, JO
Shelly, Va., ii, 16
Sherman. John, ii, 11
" Roger, ii, 1 1
Sherman's March through South
Carolina, ii, 28
Ship-carvers and Twisted Balusters,
ii' 77
Ship Church, Hingham, Mass. The
Old, i, 9; ii, 83
Shirley Hundred, ii, 31
" James River, Va., i, 19, 20,
2.; ii,35; VI, 27,32
Shop-front, Lewes, Eng., ii, 97, J 00
Shreve House Porch, Salem, Mass.,
VII, J7
Shrewsbury, N. J. Christ Church,
i, 10
Shute's Book on Classical Design,
ii, 86
Side-lights, i, 13; II, 3, 41; HI, 7;
IV, 8; ii, 2
Silk-growing in Virginia, ii, 14
Smibert. John, Architect, i, 10
Skipworth. Col. Henry, ii, 18
Smith. Capt. John, ii, 22, 26, 42, 52
" House Porch, Brighton,
N. Y., ii, J
Smithfield. St. I,uke's, ii, 22, 23
Society of the Cincinnati, i, 25
Solid Steps, i, 22
.Solitary Brethren, i, 15
Solitude, Philadelphia, Pa., VI, JO,
JJ
Somerville, Mass. McLean Asylum,
ii, 79. 85
Sounding-boards, i, 10, 32; I, J9;
IV, J3
South Carolina. Gov. Bull Pringle's
House, i, 20
" " .Sherman's Passage
through, ii, 28
" Church, Salem, Ma,ss., VII,
33
" Hadley, Ma.ss., ii, 71
" Kensington. Eng. Old Deal
Door, VIII, 4
" Molton, Eng. Mantel in
Mayor's
Office, VIII,
5
" " " Royal Arms,
ii, 96; VI I L
J7
" " " Town -hall,
ii, 96; VIII,
J7, J9
Southampton, Ma.ss., ii, 62
Southern House-plan. Typical, ii,
77
" Peculiarities, ii, 76
" Provinces. Architecture
of the, i, 19
Spencer- Pierce House, Newbury-
port, Mass., i, 2
.Spire, see " Steeple."
Spotswood. Gen., ii, 17
" (jov., ii, 15, 18, 20, 42,
49
Spratz. William, a Hessian Archi-
tect, i, 5
Springfield, Mass: —
Alexander House, ii, 66, 67
Springfield, Mass.: —
Dwight House. Josiah, I, 2\
Ely Tavern, ii, 62
First Church, ii, 69
Pyncheon Fort, ii, 62
Springfield, Va., ii, 52
Spy. Miss Bet Van Lew, the Union,
ii, 34
Stable, Homewood, Bahimore, Md„
i, 22
Staircase-hall, The, i, 7
Staircases : —
Baltimore House, Riverdale, Md,
VI, 29
Bellingham-Cary House, Chelsea,
Mass., II, 5J
Brooks House, Salem, Mass., VII,
6
Cabot House, Salem, Mass.
Joseph, VII, 8
125 Derby St., Salem, Mass., VII,,
2,3
Devonshire Sq., London, VIII,
26
Gunston Hall, Va., ii, 54
Ilollister House, Greenfield,
Mass., ii, 65
Hubon House, Salem, Mass.,
VII, 5, 6
Ladd House, Portsmouth, N. H.,
VII, 24
Lee House, Marblehead, Mass.,
I, J7
McLean Asylum, Somerville,
Mass., ii, 79, 85
New York City-hall, II, 30, 37
Old State-house, Boston, Mass.,
11,47
Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadel-
phia, Pa., ii, 36,37
Philipse Manor House, Yonkers,
N. Y.. II, 28
Shirley, Va., ii, 36, 37
Tuckahoe, Va., VI, 9
Wandsworth Manor, Eng., VIII,
J4
Westover, Va., ii, 40
Winslow House, Plymouth,
Ma.ss., VIII, 2
Stair Ends, i, 2J, 22; II, J 6, 28,
52; VI, 24, 29
" Railings, i, 8, 22 ; III, 28,
29; ii, 79; IV, 33; VI,
J J, 24; VII, 2, 5, 6, 8, J J
Stairs, i, 21; IV, 24; V, J5, 22;
VI, 5
Stadt Huys, New York, N. Y. The
Old, i, 16
Stalls. Georgian Church, ii, 98
State-house, Annapolis, Md., i, 23;
ii, 59
" Bulfinch Front, Bos-
ton, i, II
" Newport, R. I., i, 10,
JJ; ii, 83
" Old, Boston, Mass., i,
10, JJ; 11,46, 47;
11, 72, 83
" Richmond, Va., i, 23
Statue of Norborne Berkeley, ii, 19
" " Grattan, Dublin, ii, 11 1
" " Washington. Houdon's,
ii, 47
Statues of Queen Anne, ii, 105
Stearns House Porch, Salem, Mass.,
VII, 27
Stebbins House Doors, Deerfield,
M.-Lss., ii. 64
Steeple, II, 42, 43
Stf.eple : —
Congregational Church, Man-
chester-by-the-Sea, Ma.ss., i, JQ
First Church, New Haven, Conn,,
II, JO
" Unitarian Church, Roxbury,
Mass., i, JO
Independence Hall, Philadelphia,
Pa., IV, 25
Old North Church, New- Haven,
Conn., II, JO
Explanation: —The first voJiime contains Pans I-IV, the sccnnd Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or "ii.'' All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
Xll
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Steeile: —
Park Street Church, Boston,
Mass., i. 9
St. Mar)- • le - Strand, Ijondoii.
VIII, 34
Stewart House. Annapolis, Md.
The Peggy, ii. 60
"Stone House." Guilford, Conn.
Old." i. I, .:
Stepped (rabies, i. 12
Story of the Ix>st Boy, ii. 4
Stratford House, Westmoreland
Co.. Va., ii, 2J» 50
Street. The Eighteenth - century
English, ii, 98
" English Houses built on
the. ii. 97
" The Village, ii, 63
Street railways and the Village
Stree , ii, 63
Streets Commission. Dublin's
Wide, ii, loS
Strickland. Wni., Architect, ii, 12
Strikes in Dublin. Early, ii, 112
Stuart's Portrait of Nellie Custis.
Gilbert, ii, 49
Stucco, i 15
" Walls, ii, 10
Sub-treasury, New York, N. Y., i,
18
Suburban English Towns. The
I.ayout of. ii. 97
Sudbury, Mass. Red Horse Inn,
i, 2 ; ii, 82
Sudwell. Col. Philip, ii, 14, 21
Suicide of John Ames, ii, G9
Sullivan. Gen., ii, 5
Sumptuary I.aws, ii, 77
Sunbursts, II, 5; IV, 7, 27; V, 21
Sundial. A Susse.x, Eng., ii, 9 J
Sunrise Tavern Interiors, Fred-
ericksburg, Va., ii, 46
Surgeons, Dublin. College of,
VIII, 44
Susquehanna, i, 12
Swan's Architectural Book, i, 5 ; ii,
86
Swedes Church, Philadelphia, Pa.
Gloria Dei, or
Old, i, 18; ii,
12; V, n, 12
" " Wilmington, Del.,
i, J7
Swedish National Church, ii, 12
Sweeney's Lane, Dublin. Houses
in, ii,'l09
Synagogue, Newport, R. I., i, 10
Syon House, Middlesex, Eng. En-
trance Screen, ii, 95 ; VIII, 15
— T —
Table. Card, I, 3 J
" Chronological, i, 9
Tablet in Atherington Church,
Eng., ii, J 04
Taliefero. Colonel, ii, iS
Tarleton's Dragoons at Lower
Brandon, Va., ii, 27
T.\i-ERNS:^
" Bull's Head." New York, N. Y.
i, J9
" Cherry," ii, 54
" Eagle." Rochester, N. Y., ii, 3
" Ely." Springfield, Mass., ii, 62
"Gadsby's." Alexandria, Va., i,
30 ; 1,9
" Raleigh," Williamsburg, Va.,
i. 17
' Sunrise." Fredericksburg, Va.,
ii,46
See " Inn."
Tayloe. Col. John, i, 29
■' House, Washington,
D. C. Mantels, III,
12. 16, 17
Taylor. Architect, ii, V,\
" House, Roxlniry, Mass.,!
6; IV, 19, 20,
Tea-party House. The IJoston, i, 5
Temple Inn Gate, London, ii, J03
Thatched Roofs, ii. 62, 68
Thibedeau, Carpenter. Mr., ii, 74
Thompson House, Charles town,
Mass. Door-
w.ay, II. 7
" " Mantel, II, 8
Thornton. Dr. William, Architect,
i, 19; ii, 48
Thorpe. George, ii, 32
Ticknor House, Boston, ii. 86
Tillman Block, Geneva, N. Y., li, 3
Tiles. Dutch, i, 22
Timbs, Carver, ii, 89
Tinicum Church, ii, 12
Tobacco. Salaries paid in ii, 1 5, 24,
30
Todd and Madison. The Widow,
"• 55
Tolles Boy. The Ixist, ii, 4
Tomahawk Frieze, i, 23
Tomb of the Brays, Williamsburg,
Va., ii, J5
" " Joseph Bridger, ii, 24
" " John Carter, ii, 24
" " Governor Nott, Williams-
burg, Va., ii, J 6
" Townsend, Witney, Eng.,
VIII, 35
" of Washington, li, 48
Tombs. The Blair, ii, 21
" English Georgian, ii, 9S ;
VIII, 3J, 35
" in Fairford, PJng. Church-
yard, VIII, 35
Tojukins Almshouse, Abingdon,
Eng., ii, 96, 99
Tories' Row, Cambridge, Mass., ii,
81
Totapotomoi, Chief of the Pamun-
keys, ii, 39
Tower, see " Steeple "
" Armagh Cathedral, ii, no
" Dublin Castle, VIII, 46
Towne. Ithiel. Architect, ii, 70
Town-hall, Abingdon, Eng., ii, 95 ;
VIII, J9
■* High Wycombe, Eng.,
ii, 98; VIII, 2 J
" Newport, R. I., ii, I J
Rye, Eng., ii, 96; VIII,
)9
" South Molton, Eng., ii,
96; VIII, J7, )9
" Weathersfield, Conn., i,
10
" Witney, Eng., ii, 96;
VIII, 21
1'own-halls of small Market-towns,
ii. 95
Towns. The I^ayout of English
Suburban, ii, 97
'I'ownsend Tomb, Witney, Eng.,
VIII. 35
Tracery. Window, i, 13
Trees reserved for Royal Navy, ii,
64
Trenton, N. Y., ii, 10
Trenton, N. Y. : —
Billings House, ii, 1 1
Decastro House, ii, 11
Douglas House, ii, 11
Griffith Inn, ii, 1 1
Guiteau House, ii, 11
Mappa House, ii, lo; V, 14, 16,
17, 18, 19,20,21,22
Van der Kemp House, ii, 11
Triad of Georgian Churches in
London. A, ii, 104
Trinity Almshouse Gate, Deptford,
VIII, 24
" Church, Newport, R. I., i,
10, 32
" " New York, N. Y.,
ii, 4
New York, N. Y.,
Old, i, 16
" College, Dublin, ii, 11 1;
VIII, 48
" Ground Almshouse, I^on-
don, VIII, 22
Trolley opposed by Deerfield, Ma-ss.,
ii, f'3
True Architecture. Georgian Ar-
chitecture, ii, 92
Tuckahoe, Goochland Co., Va., ii,
29,32-33; VI, 6, 9
Tudor House, Georgetown, D. C,
111,24
Tulip Hill, West River, Md., 1, 20
Tunbridge Wells, Eng. Porch of
Groombridge Place, ii, 103
Turkey Frieze, Winslow House,
Plymouth, Mass., ii, 85; VIII, 2
Twisted Balusters, I, 1 5, 20, 27 ;
II, 28, 47;
ii, 86; VII, 2,
5, 6, 8, n
" " possibly carved
by Ship-carv-
ers, ii, 78
Two -story Columns, i, 14
" Porches, i, 20
Typical Salem House, i, 35
Tyrone House, Dublin, ii, no
-U-
Unicorn. Sculptured, ii, 96; VIII,
17
University of Virginia, Charlottes-
ville, Va., i, 23, 24
Upjohn, Architect. R., ii, 4
Upsal House, Germantown, Pa.,
VI, 1,2,3 ■
Urns, II, 16, 2), 22; HI, 13, J9,
28,29; IV, 2
Utica, N. Y., ii, 10
-V-
Vanbrugh. Sir John. Architect,
ii, 84, 94, 95
Van Buren. Martin, ii, 10
" der Kemp. House, Trentoh,
N. v., ii, II
" " " Judge Adrian, ii,
10
" Lew House, Richmond, Va.,
ii,34
" Rensselaer Manor, Albany,
N. Y., i,
J3, 13,
14. 15;
I, JJ
" " " House,
G r een-
bush, L.
I.,i, J3
" " House Door-head,
i, 12, 13
" " Mansion House,
Albany, N. Y.,
i, 13
Vassall-Craigie-Ijongfellow House,
Cambridge, Mass., i, 4, 6, 12; ii,
82
Vassall House, Quincy, ii, 82
Venetian Red, i, 7
Vernon. Admiral, ii, 44
Verplanck. Gulian, i, 25
" House, Fishkill, N. Y.,
i, 12, 25
Vicarage, Hailsham, Eng., VIII, 7
" Lewisham, Eng., ii, 94
Village Street. The, ii, 63
ViUiers, Duke ?f Buckingham, ii, 89
Virginia. Colonial Work in, ii, 13
" Company, ii, 32
Virginia Gazette, ii, 19
— w-
Wadsworth. G. W , ii, 6
" House, Cambridge,
Mass., ii,
82
" " G e n e s e o,
N. v., i,
15,22; V,
5
Wadsworth. W. A., ii, 6
Wadsworths. The, ii, 5
Wainscoted Walls, i, 2 1
Walker House, Lenox, Mass.
Judge, ii, 83
Wall. Jefferson's Serpentine, i, 23
Waller House, Salem, Ma.ss., VII,
29
Wallis's Book on Colonial Archi-
tecture. F. E., ii, 3
Wall-paper. Dutch Scenic, i, 8
Wandsworth Manor House, Eng.,
VIII, 14, 16, 18
Wanstead Park, Eng., ii, 105
Ward House Porch, Salem, Mass^
VII, 27
Ware Church, Gloucester Co., Va.,
ii, 22
" Mass. First Church, ii, 70»
71
Ware's " Architecture" ii, 86
Washington. Augustine, ii, 44
" Charles, ii, 54
" Family Homes, ii, 54
" George Steptoe, ii, 55
" John Augustine, ii,
54
" Lawrence, ii, 44, 54
" Lund, ii, 45
" Samuel, ii, 54
Washington, Gen. George: —
General, i, 29; ii, 5, 42
Houdon's Statue of, ii, 47
House in New York, ii, 47
Inherits Mount Vernon, ii, 44
I^ast Visit to Alexandria, i, 30
Lodge Chair, i, 30
Marriage of, ii, 25, 44
Portraits of, ii, 38, 47
Surrenders his Commission, ii, 60
Will, ii, 49
Washington, D, C: —
Octagon House, i, 28; III, J2,
16, 17
Seton House, I, 28, 29
The United States Capitol, i, 19
Washington House, Frederick s-
burg. The Mary, ii, 20
Washington's Home, Claymont
Court. Bushrod, ii, 55 ; VI, 37
Waterloo, N. Y. M. E. Church, i,
17
Waters. Rev. T. Frank, ii. 73
Wayside Iim, Sudbury, Mass., ii, 82
Weathersfield, Conn., ii, 61
" " Doorway of
C h u r chill
House, ii,
63
« « Town -hall, i,
ID
Weavers' Hall, Dublin, ii, J09
Webster. Daniel, i, 36
Webster's Second Wedding.
Daniel, ii, 5
Wells House, Cambridge, Mass., ii,
82
Wendel. Theodore. Painter, ii, 73
Wentworth House, Little Harbor,
N. H., ii, 82
Weromocomoco, ii, 16
West Boston Church, ii, 86; VII,
26,28
Westfield. Mass., ii, 62
Westminster, Eng. Door-head, ii,
90
" " Doorway, ii,
89
Westover. James River, Va., i, 19,
20, 21, 22 ; ii> 18, 27- 28, 32, 40,
41
West River, Md. Tulip Hill, i, 20
" Springfield, Mass., ii, 62
" " Mass. First
Church, ii, 68
" Wycombe, Eng. Doorway,
ii, 92
Whipple. John, ii, 74
Exp
nuni^ra
V^*rl"^ ■7^'''' ''"' volume contains Parts )-IV, the serond Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or " ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
aU. I lie full-page plalesare uidicafid by Roman numerals indicating tlie Part, and bold-face figures snowmg the location of the plate in that Part.
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
Xlll
Whipple House, Ipswich, Mass.,
"• 7:=. 73, 74
Whitehall. Architrave Base, i, 23
Md. Door-head, i, 22
White Hart Inn, Salisbury, Eng.,
ii. 96
Whitemarsh, Va. " Rosewell,"
VII, 5
Wicks. Williams. Architect, ii, 10
Wide-streets Commission. Dub-
lin's, ii, 108
Wilkins, Architect of Nelson Monu-
ment, Dublin, ii, 1 11
Will. Wa.shington's, ii, 49
William III. King, ii, 19
" and Mary College, Will-
iamsburg, Va., i, 22 ;
ii, J 8
" and Mary College.
P'ounder of, ii, 15
Williams. Ephraim, ii, 83
" House, Salem, Mass.
Roger, i, 9,
34
" " 1234 Washing-
ton St., Bos-
ton. II, n,
J2,J3,J4,J5,
" Roger, i, 34
Williamsburg, Va., i, 19; ii, 13
Williamsburg, Va. : —
Bniton Parish Church, ii, 14, 15
Christ Church, i, 24
Churchyard Gate, ii, 14
Mantel,' i, 23
Old Powder -house, ii, 19, 20
Tomb of Governor Nott, ii, J 6
William and Mary College, i, 22 ;
2, J8
Wren's Court-house, i, 22, 23 ;
ii, 13-14
Wythe House, ii, 18
Williamstown, Ma-ss. Van Rensse-
laer Manor House moved to, i, 14
Willink Family, ii, 4
Wilmington, Del. Old Stone
(Swedes') Church, i, J7
Winchester, Eng. Bay-window at
St. Cross, ii, JOO
Window-frame, ii, 67
Windows, IV, 5, 8
" Palladian, i, 5, 7, 2J ;
II, 20, 42, 54; IV,
2J; VII, )6
Windows : —
Christ Church, Alexandria, Va.,
11,20
Harwood House, Annapolis, Md.,
i, 20
Williams House, Bo.ston, Mass.,
II, J5
Window Tracery, i, 13
Winslow House, Plymouth,
Mass., ii, 82, 84, 85 ; VIII, 2
Wister House Mantel, German-
town, Pa., VI, 8
Witchcraft at Salem, i, 33
Witch House, Salem, Mass., i, 4,
Witney, Eng. Tombs, VIII, 31,
55
" " Town -hall, ii, 86;
VIII, 21
Woburn, Mass. Count Rumford's
House, i, 6, 7! ii, 77
Women sent to the Colonies, ii, 31
Wood, Architect. John, ii, 94, 95
Woodlawn, Va. House of Nellie
Custis, ii, 27, 48; VI, 20, 22,
23, 24, 25, 26
Woolsey. Commodore, ii, 8
" House, Sackett's Har-
bor, N. Y., ii, 8; III,
25,26
" Lieutenant, ii, 7
Wottan's Book on Classical Design.
Sir H., ii, 86
Wren. Sir Christopher, i, 22, 32 ;
ii, 13, 18, 42, 59, 84, 89, 91, 93,
94, 105, 106
Wren's Daughter. The Church de-
signed by, ii, 104
Wren's London House, ii, 104
" Street-plan for London, ii,
60
Wrought Ironwork, S. Carolina, ii,
80
Wyanoke, Va., ii, 32
Wyat. Sir Francis, ii, 32
Wyatt. Benj. Architect, i, 10
Wyckoff House, Flatlands Neck,
L. I., i, 16
Wycombe. See " High Wycombe " :
" West Wycombe."
Wythe House, Williamsburg, ii, 18
" Poisoning of Chancellor
George, ii, 18
Yeardley. Governor, ii, 25
Yellow and White, i, 7
Yonkers, N. Y. Philipse Manor
House, i, 14: II, 24,25,26,27,
28, 29
York Buildings, Ixmdon, ii, 89
" House destroyed, ii, 89
Yorktown, Va. Nelson House, ii,
19
-z —
Zion Church, Philadelphia, Pa., i, 17
Explanation: —The first volume contains Parts I-IV, the second Parts V-VIII. The volume is indicated by "i" or " ii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face
numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part-
Chronology of American Buildings/
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY.
'6=3 1679 1683 ,698
Mclntire Garrison, York, Me. J^'J"'"'"" "°""'=' ^"^'°"' ^I^-'^^' Jenkins House, Edisto Island, Trinity, Old S^^■edes, Church,
'<553 Sleepy Hollow Church, Tarry- ^- *^- Wilmington, Del.
Jail, York, Me. town, N. Y.
EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.
1705 1742 1759 1783
Immanuel Church, New Castle, (Jemeinhaus, Bethlehem, Pa. Vandenheuvel House, New York, Town-hall, Newport, R. I.
Del. ,_^_l N. Y. 1785
1711 I're.sbyterian Church, Newark, '760 Horry House, Charleston, S. C.
Goose Creek [St. J a m e s ' .s] 'N.J. Christ (Swedes) Church, Upper Nichols Stable, Salem, Mass.
Church, S. C. St. John's College, Annapolis, Merion, Fa. Russell, Nath'l, House, Charlcs-
1714 Md. ' ''1763 ton, 8. C.
"Mulberry Castle," Cooper , Pompion Hill Chapel, near 1786
River, S. C. '„r,iiT >w n -n d Charleston, S. C. Brown-Gammell House, Provi-
,,,., " Old 1 rappe,C.ollegeville, Pa. , 1 r, t
1725 , '^ ^ 1765 dence, R. I.
Mansion House, Wilmington, '74;^ ,, , , , „ Bull-Piingle [Miles Brewton] 1787
N. C. Just Semmary, Bethlehem, Pa. House, Charleston, S. C. " Westover," on the Jame.s, Va.
1726 1750 ,_5 ' ' 1789
Trinitv Church Newnort R T Heyward, Nath'l, House, ',.', . . ^, , ., 1 ■ -i- " Concord," near Natchez, Miss,
jiuiiiy v^uuicii, i\e«puri, ix. 1. J ' ' i Christ Church, /Me.xandna, \ a. ' '
, Charleston, S. C. ,.^ e^ . , ,-u i J . '79°
1727 St. Stephens Church, Santee, ' i, ,, ,, . ,. ,,.,
St. Bartholomew's Church, Phila- '75- S. C. Duncan Hou.se, Pans, ky. I he
delnhia Pa St. Paul's Church, Halifax, N. S. .„ Major.
aelphia, la. ,„(5,S " Oatlands," Loudon Co., Va.
1728 '??■ ^J, ,, , ■ Wamboro [St. James's] Church, Count Rumford's House,
"Stenton," near Philadelphia, ^"^S Manor Hou,se, Jamaica, Santee, S. C, Woburn, Mass.
Pa. I" !• Widows' House, Bethlehem, Pa. 1701;
1730 '75' 1769 " Federal Hill," Bardstown, Ky.
"Red Lion " Tavern, Philadel- Moravian Chapel, Bethlehem, Pa. Pohick Church, Va. " Montpelier," Va.
phia Co., Pa. 1752 j--o 1796
iy-!A St. Michael's Church, Charleston, "Woodlands," Philadelphia, Pa. City Hall, Hartford, Conn.
Ursuline Convent, New Orleans, ^- C' ly--. '798
la I7C7 ..■vT ,■ 11 " r-i 1 .. Massachusetts State-house,
'•''• '753 " Monticello, near Charlotte- ,, '
jy-jC Hite House, Winchester, Va. yiu^ Va noston.
i. T> !• /-u u T-j . c /-■ ' South Building, Chapel Hill,
St. Paul s Church, Ldenton, S. C. 1754 '774 NT &' r '
1737 Day, Jo.siah, House, West First Baptist Church, Providence, ,799
" Westover," on the James River, Springfield, Ma.ss. k. L Peirce, Dan'l. H., House, Ports-
Va. 1755 First Presbyterian Church, New- mouth N. H.
1740 Old Dutch Church, Halifax, N. S. ark, N. J. Exchange* Savannah, Ga.
"Drayton Hall," Ashley River, 1758 1780 1800
S. C. "Mount Airy," on the Rappa- Gibbes [Drayton] House, St. George's Church, Halifax,
Paxtang Church, HarrLsburg, Pa. hannock, Va. Charleston, S. C. N. S.
NINETEENTH CENTURY.
j8oi 181 1 1S18 1S28
Government House, Halifax, Province Piuilding, Halifax, N. S. Holmes House, Charleston, S. C. Government House, Fredericton,
N. S. Flynn's Presbyterian Church, 1820 ^- ^'•
1802 Charleston, S. C. Ancrum House, Charleston, 1830
" Ariington," Va. ,815 S. C. De Saussure House, Charieston,
'°°3 Cainhoy Church, near Charles- t, ,, , ,, ,, ,, ,. S. C.
Moravian Church, Bethlehem, ton, S. C. Bulloch House, Ro.sewell, Ga. " Edgewood," near Edgefield,
''3- „ Ti ,. , r^ Hansel] Hou.se, Rosewell, (Ja. S. C.
Waterman House, Du.xbury, Owens House, Savannah, Ga. ^^^^ " Hermitage, The," on the Sa-
„ ^^^^^- Scarborough House, Savannah, St. Mary's Male Academy, Nor- vannah River, Ga.
°r- •. r-i 1 ^- 1 X- T Ga. folk, Va. ,8,6
innity Church, .Newark. IS. J. „,,..,,.„ ^ 1 Typical House, Charleston, S. C. st Philip's Church Charleston,
1810 Telfair Art Gallery, Savannah, -" 01. i iiuip >, v.iiuicii, v^nancMui.,
Witte House, Charieston, S. C. Ga. 1826 S- *-^-
Belvedere Farmhouse, Cooper 1818 University of Virginia, Char- 1838
River, S. C. Bulloch House, Savannah, Ga. lottesville, Va. Christ Church, Savannah, Ga.
1 Mentioned in I 'oluine I /I [Paris JX-XI/.\
Alphabetical Chronological Tabulation/
Ancrum House, Charleston, S. C
1S20
Archbishop's Palace, New Orleans.
I-a.. 1734
'• Arlington." Va., 1S02
Belvedere Farmhouse, Cooper
River, iSio
Brewton [BuU-P r i ng le] House,
Charleston, S. C, 1765
BulM'ringle [Brewton] House.
Charleston, S. C, 1765
Bulloch House, Rosewell, Ga., i8::o
" '* S a V a n n a h, Cia.,
1818
Cainhov Church, near Charleston,
S. C', 1S15
Capen House, Binghamton, N. Y.,
iSio
Christ Church, Alexandria, Va.,
.767
" " Savannah, Ga.,
1S38
" (Swedes) Church, Upper
Merion, Pa., 1760
City-hall, Hartford, Conn., 1796
" Concord," near Natchez, Miss..
1789
Day House, West Springfield,
Mass. Josiah. I754
De Saussure House, Charleston,
S. C, 1830
Drayton Hall, Ashley River, S. C ,
1740
Drayton House, Charleston, S. C,
1780
Duncan House, Paris, Kv., 1790
Dutch Church, Halifai, N. S.,
'755
" Edgewood," near Edgefield, S. C.,
1830
"Federal Hill," Bardstown, Ky.,
1795
First Baptist Church, Providence,
R.I. 1774
First Seminary, Bethlehem, Pa.,
1746
Gemeinhaus. Bethlehem, Pa., 1742
Gibbes House, Charleston, S. C,
1780
Goose Creek [St. James's] Church,
1711
Government House, Fredericton,
N. B.. 1828
Government House, Halifa.x, N. S.,
1801
Hansell House, Rosewell, Ga.,
1820
" Hermitage. The," on the Savan-
nah River, Ga., 1820
Heyward, Nath'l, House, Char-
leston, S. C, 1750
Hite House, Winchester, Va., 1753
Holmes House, Charleston, S. C.,
1818
Horrj' House, Charleston, S. C,
1785
Immanuel Church, New Castle,
Del,, 1705
Jail. York, Me., 1653
Jenkins House, Edisto Island,
S. C, 1683
King Manor House, Jamaica, L. I.,
1750-1805
" Mclntire Garrison," York, Me ,
Mansion House, \\ ilmington, N. C,
1725
Massachusetts State-house, Boston,
1798
" Monticello," near Charlottesville,
Va., 1772
" Montpelier," Va , '795
Moravian Chapel, Bethlehem, Pa.,
175'
Moravian Church, Bethlehem, Pa.,
1803
*' Mount Airy," on the Rappahan-
hock, Va , 1758
" Mulberry Castle," Cooper River,
S. C, 1714
" Oatlands," Loudon Co., Va., 1790
" Old Trappe," CoUegeville, Pa.,
1745
Paxtang Church, Ilarrisburg, Pa.,
1740
Peirce, D. H., House, Portsmouth,
N. H., 1799
Pohick Church, near Alexandria,
Va., 1769
Pompion Hill Chapel, near Char-
leston, S. C, 1763
Presbyterian Church, Newark,
N. J., 1744
Province Building, Halifax, N. S.,
1811
" House, Boston, 1679
" Red Lion " Tavern, Philadelphia,
Pa., 1730
Rumford House, Woburn, Mass.,
1790
Ru.ssell, Nath'l., House, Charleston,
S. C, 1785
St. Bartholomew's Church, Phila-
delphia, Pa., 1727
George's Church, Halifax,
N. S., 1800
John's College, Annapolis, Md.,
1744
Marv's Male Academy, Nor-
fo'lk, Va, 1 82 5
Michael's Church, Charleston,
S. C, 1752
Paul's Church, Edenton, N. C.,
1736
Paul's Church, Halifax, N. S.,
175-
St. PhiUp's Church, Charleston,
S. C, 1836
" Stephen's Church, Santee,
S. C, 1767
Sleepv Hollow Church, Tarrytown,
N. v., 168-
South Building, U. of N. C, Chapel
Hill, N. C, 1798
" Stenton," near Philadelphia, Pa.,
1728
Town-hall, Newport, R. I., 1783
Trinity Church, Newark, N. J.,
1805
" " Newport, R. I.,
1726
" [Old .Swedes] Church,
Wilmington, Del., 1698
Typical House, Charleston, 3* C.,
1825
University of Virginia, Charlottes-
ville, Va., 1826
Ursuline Convent, New Orleans,
La., 1734
Vandenheuvel House, New York,
N. Y., 1759
Wamboro [St. James's] Church,
Santee, S. C, 1768
Waterman House, Du.xbury, Ma.ss.,
1803
" Westover," on the James River,
Va., 1737
"White House," Washington, D. C,
1818
Widows' House, Bethlehem, Pa.,
1768
Witte House, Charleston, S. C,
1810
" Woodlands," Philadelphia, Pa..
1770
1 Of Buildings mentioned in I 'o/iiine JII {Parts IX-X//.]
General Index of Text and Illustrations.
VOLUME 111.
-A-
Aberdeen, Miss., iii, 97
" " House of Judge
Reuben Davis,
XII, J9
Academy, Norfolk, Va. St. Mary's
Male, iii, 63
" Acton," Annapolis, Md., iii, 60
Adam. The Brothers, iii, 36
Adams. John and Abigail. Room
in Cottage of, Quincy,
Mass., XII, 2
" Susannah Boylston,
Mother of John, iii, 133
Admiralty House, Halifax, N. S.,
iii, 17
Agamenticus, later York, Me., iii,
i'5
Albany, N. Y. Boys' Academy de-
signed by Philip Hooker, iii, 105
Aldrich. Dean, iii, 2
Alexandria, Va. Christ Church,
iii, 86; XI,
16
" " Pohick Church,
iii, 86
AUentown, Pa. Germans at, iii, 19
Alexis, Prince, visits Boston, iii, 120
AUis, John, Carpenter architect,
iii, 103, 104
Allis's, John, Buildings. List of,
iii, 105
Allston. Washington, iii, 36, 38
" Mrs. William, iii, 38
Altamaha River, Ga., iii, 92
Amateur Photographers. Valuable
Work of, iii, 124
American Carpentry, iii, 11
Ames's, John, Buildings. List of,
iii, 105
Ancient Buildings. Wm. Morris on
the Destniction of. iii, 123
Ancrum House, Charleston, S. C,
iii, 41 ; X, 16
Andrew, Gov., and the Mass. State-
house, iii, 123
Annapolis. Md. St. John's College,
iii, 112
" " Harwood House,
iii, iiS
Antiquities Shops. The Charles-
ton, iii, 36
Apthorpe House, New York, N. Y.,
XII, 33
Arcades at " Mount Vernon," iii,
114
" rare in Colonial Work, iii,
114
Archbishop's Palace, New Orleans,
La., XII, 7
" Archdale," S. C, ii':, 57
Arciiitf.cts [Professional and Am-
ateur] : —
AUis. John, 103, 104
Ames. John, iii, 105
Banner. Peter, iii, 103, 105
Benjamin. Asher, iii, 102, 105
Blodgett, iii, 107
Brigham. Charles, iii, 121
Architects [Professional and Am-
ateur] : —
Brown. Joseph, iii, 1 15
Bulfinch. Charles, iii, 105, 107,
112, 1 19, 124
Clarissault, iii, 104
Cummings. C. A., iii, 119, 121
Damon. Capt. Isaac, iii, 104
Davis. A. J., iii, 124
Diamond, iii, 107
Dobie, iii, 107
Elderkin. John, iii, 103, 105
Gibbs. James, iii, 79, 103
Gibson [Gibbs ?J Architect of
St. Michael's, Charleston, iii,
79
Gordon. Wm., iii, 40
Greene. John, iii, 104, 105
Hamilton. Andrew, iii, 104, 105
Harrison. Peter, iii, 103,
Havard. A., iii, 67
David, iii, 105
James, iii, 107,
Philip, iii, 105
Stephen, iii, 1 15
A, iii, 67
Hoadley
Hoban. James, iii, 107, loS,
109
Hooker.
Hopkins
Howard.
Hyde. J., iii, 82
Jay, iii, 91, 97
Johnson. Ebenezer, iii, 105
Kearsley. Dr. John, iii, 104,
105, 107
Lamphire, iii, 107
Latrobe. Benj. H., iii, 107
L'Enfant. Pierre, iii, 24, 109
McBean, iii, 103, 105
McComl). John, iii, 102, 104,
105, ro7
Mclntire. Samuel, iii, 105, 107
Mayo, iii, 107
McKini, Mead & White, iii, 27
Munday. Richard, iii. 105, 105
Pell. luhvard. iii, lOs
Rhoades.
Smibert.
Samuel, iii, 105
Peter, iii, 103, 105
Smith. Robert, iii, 105
Spratz. Wm., iii, 105
Strickland. Wm , iii, 107
Sumner. James, iii, 1 1 5
Thornton. Dr. Wm,, iii, 113
Towne. Ithiel, iii, 107, 124
Twelves. Robert, iii, 105
Villepontoux. F., iii, 67
Woodruff. Judah, iii, 104, 105
Wren. Sir Christopher, iii, 18,79
Architects. Amateur, iii, 97
" of St. .Stephen's, S. C,
iii, 67
Architectural Books. List of, iii,
105
"Arlington," Va., iii, iio; XII, 20
Art Gallery, Savannah, Ga. Tel-
fair, iii, 92
" Ashlands," near Mobile, Ala., iii,
112; XII. )3
"Ashley Hall," the Home of the
Bulls, iii, 73
Ashley River, S. C. Drayton Hal]
on, iii, 36, 55
" Astrudeville," Va., iii, 99
Athens, Ga., iii, 97
" " House of Gen. T. R.
R. Cobb, iii, J J8
" House of II. W.
Grady, iii, 108
Atlanta, Ga. The Leydon House,
XII, »8
Attic Wine-closets, iii, 32, 45
Augusta, Ga. "Meadow Garden,"
iii, J J I
Autumn Trip to South Carolina,
iii, 43
— B —
Ball House, Charleston. The
Thomas, iii, 34, 48, 49; X, )3,
)5
Baltimore : —
Mahogany Doors, IX, 24
Parlor Finish, IX, 25
Bank. Providence National, iii,
115; Xil,39
Banner, Peter, Architect of Park
Street Church, Bostori, iii, loj,
'°5
Baptist Church, First, Providence,
R. I., iii, )04, 115; XII,
45
" Parsonage, Beaufort, S. C,
iii, 76; X, 34
" School - house, Beaufort,
S. C. Old, iii. 71
Bardstown, Ky. " Federal Hill,"
iii, 1 13; 1 14
Barony oi Nazareth, Pa., iii, 20
Barracks, New Orleans, La., XII,
5
lias-reliefs for Robert Morris's
House, iii, 24
Bath, luig. House in Abbey Yard,
iii, 8
ISattery, Cliarleston, S. C. Tlie, iii,
46
" The Edenton Bell, iii, 88
Battle of t!ie " Chesaf'eaL'c " and
" Shannon^' iii, 123
" Sussex, Eng. Cottages, IX,
2
Heardsley House, Beaufort, S. C.
Stairlanding in the, iii, 77
Beaufort, S. C., iii, 74
Beaufort, S. C. : —
Baptist .School-house, iii, 71
" Parsonage, 76 ; X, 34
Beardsley House. Room in, XI,
22
Brick Tomb, iii, 76
College Building, iii, 75
Closed-in Verandas, iii, 64
Door-heads, iii, 75
Elliott House, iii, 76; XI, 21, 22
Fuller House, iii, 76; XI, 23, 25
Gateways to St. Helena's Churcli-
yard, XI, 14
" Mount Bristol," iii, 75
St. Helena's Churcli, iii, 76; XI,
13
Beaufort, S. C. : —
Sea Island Hotel, iii, 77
Stairlanding in Beardsley House,
iii, 77
Beauregard, Gen., and tlio Bells of
St. Paul's, Edenton, N. C, iii, 88
" Beauvoir," Biloxi, Miss., iii, 99,
III ; XII, 3
Belfry of Moravian Church, Bethle-
hem, Pa., iii, 20
" I'latform for Trombone-play-
ers, iii, 20
Bell Battery. The Edenton, iii, 88
" Belle Grove," Iberville Parish,
La., iii, 94, 1 1 1 ; XII, )6
" Belle Isle," House of Gen. Marion,
iii, 67, 68, 69
Bellingham's, C;ov., House, Bos-
ton, iii, I 22
Bells of St. Michael's, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 78
" " " Michael's smashed by
Federal Troops, iii,
80
" " " Philip's, Charleston,
cast into Cannon,
iii, 83
Belvedere Farm House, Cooper
River, S. C, X, 8, 9
** Madeira, iii, 32
Bemis's House, Charleston, .S. C.
Plan of Dr., iii, 45
Benjamin, Asher, Carpenter -archi-
tect, iii, 102
Benjamin's, Asher, Buildings. List
of, iii, 102, 105
Bentsville, Va. Old House at, iii,
109
liergen Homestead, Flatbush, L. I.,
iii, 1 17
P>ertram I louse Veranda, Salem,
Mass., iii, 63
Bethesda College, near Savannah,
iii. 40
Betldeheni, Pa., iii, 18
Bethlehem, Pa.: —
Choral Festival at, iii, 20
Gemeinhaus, iii, iS, J 9
Germans at, iii, 19
Moravian Buildings, iii, )8
" Chapel, iii, 19
Church, iii, )9, 20
Trombone-players, iii, 20
Bilile restored by Englishmen.
Mrs. Motte's, iii, 48, 68
Biloxi, Miss., " Beauvoir," iii, 99)
III; XII, 3
" " settled l)y French
Canadians, iii, 99
Binghamton, N. Y. The Capen
House, iii, 118; XII, 47
" Black Belt." The, iii, 92
Blake "Earthquake Wine." The,
iii, 32
Blodgett, Architect, iii, 107
" Blue Bell " Tavern, Derby, Pa., iii,
24
ExPLANATins : — The Volume ts indicated by " iii " All ilhistralions are indicated by bold-face numerals. The full-jjage plates are indicated by Roman nuineriils indicating the
Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in that Part.
IV
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
" Blueford." Mantelpiece at, iii,
69
Board. The Joggling, iii, 45
Boardman House, Saugus, Ma.<s.,
iii. J 2
Bohemia Manor, Md. Labadists
at, iii. 19
Bond-timbers, iii. 2
Bonfires, an Evening Feature at
rineville. iii, 66
Bonnet, Steed, Pirate, iii. 38
Book. Stuart and Revett's, iii, 108
Books on Architecture. List of,
105
Boston : —
Bulfinch Front. Battle over the,
iii, 1 19
" " Cost of Restor-
ing, iii, 1 20
E.xchange Coffeehouse, iii, i it.
House of Gov. Bellingham, iii,
" " Peter Faneuil, iii, 122
" " Sir Harry Frankland,
iii, 122
" Hancock, iii, 122
" Province, iii, 122
" of Sir Harry Vane, iii.
Park Street Church, iii, 21, 103,
1C5; IX, J8
St. Paul's Church, iii, 21
Senate Chamber. The Old, iii,
J20; xn,40
State-House. Cost of, iii, 1 19
" " Council -chamber,
iii, n9
" " Doric Hall, iii,
120
" " Hessian Drum in,
iii, 120
" " See " Massachu-
setts."
" " Senate Chamber,
iii, )20; XH,
40
" " Washburn's Al-
terations of, iii,
121
Boulanger, a favorite Dance. The,
iii, 66
Bow -windows, Exeter, Eng., iii, 6
Boylston. Susannah, iii, 123
" Brandon," Va., iii, 60
Brewton, Miles, Merchant, iii, 36
*' Sir Joshua's Portrait of
Miles, iii, 38
" [Bull-Priiigle] House,
Charleston, S. C, iii,
30, 36, 37, 38, 47. <■'«.
112; X, J8, J9, 20,
21,22,23,24,25,26
*' Slave Quarters, Cliaiies-
ton, S. C, iii, 37
" Briars," near Natchez, Miss.
The, iii, 62
Brick-built. Southern Churches
generally, iii, 85
Brick -nogged Walls, iii, 11
Brickyards at Medford, Mass., iii, 84
Bridge-builder. Capt. Isaac Da-
mon, iii, 104
Brigham, Charles, Architect, and
the Mass. State-house, iii, 121
Brighton, Mass. Shedd House, iii,
>2
British and the Bells of St. Mich-
ael's, Charleston. The, iii,
78
" and Fort Motte. The, iii,
36, 68
" Headquarters in the Brew-
ton House, iii, 36
Broughton's House, " Mulberry
Towers," iii, 73
Brown-Gammell House, Provi-
dence, R. I., iii, 115; XII, 37, 38
Brown. Josepli, Architect of the
First Baptist Church, Providence,
R. I., iii, 104, 105, 115 j
Brown House. Joseph, Providence,
R. I., iii, 115; XII, 39
Brunswick, Ga., iii, 92
Bryant, G. J. F., Architect, and the
Boston State-house, iii, 119
Bulfinch, Charles, Architect of; —
Mass. State-House, iii,
119, 123
University Hall, Cam-
bridge, iii, 112
" Front. Cost of Restoring
the, iii, 120
Bulfinch's, Charles, Buildings. List
of, iii, 105
Bull. Col. William, iii, 90
" House Entrance, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 29
" Plantation Entrance, Ashley
River, S. C, iii, 56
BuU-Pringle House, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 30, sCi. 37, 38, 47. 6S.
112; X, )8, J9, 20, 21, 22, 23,
24, 25, 26
Bulloch House, Rosewell, Ga., iii,
96,98
" " Sav an nah, Ga.,
The, iii, 91, 93,
94,97; XII, 9
Bunker Hill Monument, iii, 123
" Buniside," on the Mississippi,
iii. III ; XII, J5
Burning of the Horry House, iii,39
" " " Huguenot Church,
Charleston, S. C,
iii, 81
" " " Rotunda, Univer-
sity of Va., iii, 27
St. Philip's Church,
Charleston, iii, 81
Butler House, on the Altamaha,
Ga. The, iii, 93
Butler's Marriage with Fanny
Kemble. Pierce, iii, 93
Butter Walk, Dartmouth, Eng., iii,
4,5
Buzzards the Scavengers of Charles-
ton, iii, 48
-c-
Cabot, George, iii, 120
Cacique, iii, 88
Cainhoy Church, near Charleston,
S. C, iii, 87; XI, J5
Caledonia, N. Y. Door to Clark
House, IX, 34
Calhoun. Grave of John C, iii. Si
" Homestead, Newnan,
Ga, iii, 60, 98 ; X, 46
Calhoun's Place, "Fort Hill."
J. C, iii, 95, 99
Camden, S. C. The De Saussure
Homestead, iii, S3
Camellia Japonica Tree, at " Mid-
dleton Place," iii, 72
Campbell House, Charleston, S. C.
Lord William, iii, 30, 35, 38
Campbell's Escape. Lord and Ladv,
iii, 38
Cantilever Piazzas, iii, 1 11
Cape Fear District, N. C, iii, 28
Capital at " Etowah Heights," Ga.
Curious, iii, 1 1 1
Capitals, iii, 23 ; IX, 27, 29, 3 J
" of Wamboro Church.
The Brick, iii. 86
Carleton, Sir Guy, and the Bells of
St. Michael's, Charleston, iii, 88
Carolina Coffee House, Charles
ton, iii, 33
Carpenter -architects, iii, 102
Carpenter shacks. Georgia, iii, 92
Carpentry and Georgian Architec-
ture, iii, I
" Work in America, iii, 11
Carter's, "King," House "Oat-
lands," XII, 27
Cartersville, (ia. The SprouU
House, near, iii, J JO, 112
"Castle, Mulberry," Cooper River,
S. C, iii, 54; X,38
Ceilings at "Kenmore" made by
Hessian Prisoners, iii, 113
Chancel Rail. St. Michael's,
Charleston, S. C, XI, 6
Chandelier. The Brewton Crys-
tal, iii, 37
Chapel. Bethlehem, Pa., Old Mora-
vian, iii, )9
" Hill, N. C. University of
North Carolina, iii, 112
" St. John's, New York,
N. Y., iii, 105
" St. Paul's, New York,
iii, 105
Charleston, S. C. When Settled,
iii, 29, 89
Charleston, S. C: —
Ancrum House, iii, 41 ; X, J6
Antiquities Shops, iii, 36
Attic Wine<losets, iii, 32, 45
Ball, Thomas, House, iii, 34, 48,
49; X, J5
Battery. The, iii, 46
Bemis's House. Plan of Dr., iii,
45
Bull House. Entrance to the,
iii, 29
BuU-I'ringle [Miles Brewton]
House, iii, 30, 36, 37, 38, 47.
68,112; X, J8,J9, 20,21,22,
23, 24, 25, 26
Buzzards, iii, 48
Cainhoy Church, iii, 87 ; XI, 15
Campbell House. The Lord Wm.,
iii. 30. 35. 38
Coffee-house. The Old Carolina,
iii. 33
College of Charleston, iii, 32, 33
(,'urfe\v-bell. The, iii, 44
Custom-house. The New, iii, 43
" The Old, iii, 40
De Saussure House. The iii, 31,
46; X, 4
Drayton House, iii, 35; X, J 4
PMmonson House, iii, 30
Elliott House, iii, 50
Exchange, iii, 40
Flynn's Presbyterian Church, iii.
40; X,31
Funeral Customs, iii, 42
Gateway. The Simonton, iii, 30
Gateways, iii, 30, 44, 50 ; X,
29,30,35
" to the Edmonson
Hou.se, iii, 30; X, 2,
3
Gibbes House, X, 14
Hayne House, iii, 35, 36, 39
Hayward's House, Judge, iii,
34,48; X, J7
Ileyward, Nath'l, House, iii, -X/Z^
34; X, 10, 11
Holmes House, iii, 31 ; X. 6
Horry House, iii, 48; X, 36
Huguenot Temple, iii, 36, 40
Ironwork, iii, 34
Izard House, iii, 38
Janitor's Lodge, College of
Charleston, iii, 32
Laurens, Henry, House, iii, 33,
34
Loundes [Waggoner] House, iii,
49 ; X. 33
Manigault Gate-house, X, 35
" House, iii, 51
Market, iii, t,},, 48, 49
Mason-Smith House, iii, 35
Oldest Part of the City, iii, 32
Pompion Hill Chapel Pulpit,
XI, 17
Post-office, iii, 53
Powder Magazine. The Old
Spanish, iii, 40
Pumping-station. The, iii, 48
Rhett House, iii, 38
Russell, Nath'l, House, iii, 30,
31. 39; X, 12
St. Michael's C'hurch, iii, -i^t,, 43,
47,43,78.80,81, 82; XI, 3,
4, 5, 6, 7, 8
St. Paul's Church, iii, 40
Ch.\ri.eston, S. C. : —
St. Philip's Church, iii, 33, 40,
43. 80, 82,83; XI, 9, 10
St. Philip's Church. The .Sec-
ond, iii, 81
Slave Quarters. The Brewton,
iii. 37
Smythe, Augustus, House, X, J4
Spanish-tiled Roofs, iii, 44
Staircases, iii, 34
Street Names, iii, 44
Sunday Habits, iii, 46
Tombstones in St. Philip's
Churchyard, iii, 35
Tradd House. Robert, iii, t,t,
Tumbull House. The Robert J.,
iii. 49. 53
Type House Plan. The, iii, 31
Typical House, X, 5, 27
Veranda, X, 27
Veranda, iii, 30, 62 ; X, 27
" A Modem, iii, 57
Waggoner [l^oundes] House, iii,
49; X, 33
Wine-closets. Attic, iii, 32, 45
Witte House, iii, 41, 97; X, 16
Charlestown, Mass. A Midwife's
Epitaph, iii, 1 17
Charlottesville, Va. : —
" Monticello," Jefferson's House,
iii, 13
Professors' Houses, University
of Va., iii, 25, 26, 27; IX,
7
Rotunda of the University of
Virginia, IX, 6
" Cliesapeake " and the " Shannon"
Battle of the, iii, 123
Chester, Eng. Half-timber Work,
iii, 2
Childs House, Rochester, N. Y.,
Jno., iii, 94, no
Chimney. The Outside, iii, 51
Chippendale Work, iii. 36
Choragic Monument of Lysicrates.
Order of the, iii, 1 10
Choral Festival at Bethlehem, Pa.,
iii, 20
Chorals at Salem, N. C, Trom-
bone, iii, 22
Christ Church, Alexandria, Va.,
iii, 86; XI, 16
" " Philadelphia, Pa.,
iii, 104, 105
" " Savannah, iii, 93
" " Williamsburg,
Va., iii, 81
" (Swedes) Church, Upper
Merion, I'a., iii, 21
Christian Springs, Pa., iii, 20
Churches generally built of Brick.
Southern, iii, 85
Churches:. —
Ashfield, Mass., iii, 105
Cainhoy Church, near Charles-
ton, S. C, iii, 87; XI, J5
Christ Church, Alexandria, Va.,
iii, 86; XI, 16
" " Cambridge,
Mass., iii, 105
" " Philadelphia. Pa.,
iii, 104, 105
Church, Wil-
liamsburg, Va.,
iii, Si
Congregational, Farmington,
Conn., iii, 105
Episcopal, Providence, R. I., iii,
104, 105
Farmington, Conn., iii, 16, 104
First Baptist, Providence, R. I.,
iii, 104, 105, 115; XII,
45
" Congregational, Providence,
R. I., iii, 104, 105
" New London, Conn., iii,
'05
" Northampton, Mass., iii,
Explanation : — The Volume is indi
Part, and bold-fjce figures showing llic lucal
1 by " iii " All i'lnstralions are indicated by bold-face numerals. The full page plates are indicated bv Roman numerals indicating the
ion of [he plate in ihat Part.
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
Churches : —
First Universalist, Providence,
R. I., iii, 104, 105
Flynn's Presbyterian, Cliarleston,
S. C, iii, 40; X, 3 J
Goose Creek, S. C, iii, 86t ^'^7
Hadley, Mass., iii, 105
Halifax, N. S. Dutcli, iii, J 6
" " St. George's, iii,
16
" " St. Paul's, iii, 16
Hanover Street, Boston, Mass.,
iii, 105
Hatfield, Mass., iii, 105
Huguenot Church, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 40
Immanuel, New Castle, Del., iii.
21
Independent Presbyterian, Sa-
vannah, Ga., iii, 98
I^anca.ster, Ma.ss., iii, 105
Moravian, Bethlehem, Pa., iii,
J9, 20
" Chapel, Bethlehem,
Pa., iii, J 9 I
" Salem, N. C, iii, 22
Newark, N. J. P'irst Presbyter-
ia:i, iii, 16 ; IX, 23
Nev,- North, Boston, Ma.ss., iii,
North, New Haven, Conn., iii,
'• Ware. Mass., iii, 105
Northboro, Mass., iii, 105
Old Trappe, Collegeville, Pa., iii,
2J
Old Wamboro [St. James's]
Church, Santee, S. C, iii, 65,
68,86; XI, \\, \2
Park St., Boston, Mass., iii, 21,
loj, 105; IX, 18
Pa.xtang, llarrisburg. Pa., iii, 2j
Pittsfteld, Ma.ss., iii, 105
Pohick, near Ale.xandria, Va., iii,
86
Pompion Hill Chapel, near
Charleston, S. C, iii, 87
Prince George's. Winyaw, iii, 52,
87; X, 40, 41
St. Andrew's, on the Ashlev,
S. C, iii, S;; XI. 15
" Bartholomew's, Philadel-
phia, Pa., iii, 104, 105
" Denis, near Charleston,
S. C, iii, 87
" George's, Halifax, N. S., iii,
14
" Helena's, Beaufort, S. C,
iii, 76; XI, J3
" James, Santee, S. C, iii, 48
" John's Chajjel, New V<trk,
N. W. iii, 105
" " Hampton, \'a., iii,
S4
" lAike's, Smithfield, Va., iii.
" Michael's, Charleston, S. C.
3,5. 4:„47, 7''<.So, 8J,82;
XI,3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8
" Paul's, Boston, Slass., iii, 21
'* " Chai)el, New York,
N. v., iii. 105
" " Charleston, .S. C, iii.
40
" " F.denton, N. C, iii.
88
Halifax, N. S.. iii, 16
" Peter's, Isle of Wight. Va..
iii, 87
" " Philadelphia, iii, 86
" Philip's, Charleston, S. C,
iii, Vv 40. 43, So,
82,8i;XI,9, 10
" " Charleston, S. C.,
The Second, iii,
81
" ■ Stephen's, Santee, S. C, iii,
67,85.87; XI, 15
Sleepy Hollow, Tarrvtown, N. V.,
iii, 21 ; IX, 26
South, B(jston, .Mass., iii. 105
" Salem, Mass., ii], 105
Churches : —
Strawberry on the Cooper River,
S. C, iii, 87; XI, )5
Taunton, Mass., iii, 105
Trinity, " Old Swedes," Wil-
mington, Del., iii, 21 ;
IX, 4, 5
" Newark, N. J., iii, 16;
IX, 23
'• Newport, R. I., iii, 21 ;
IX, 19,20,21,22
United, New Haven, Conn., iii,
105
West, Boston, Mass., iii, 105
" Springfield, Mass., First,
iii, 10;, 105
Weymouth, Mass., iii, 105
Churchyard Gates, Beaufort, S. C.
" Gate, Charleston, S. C.
St. Michael's, XI, 7
Churchyards, New York City, iii,
"7
Ciphers in Ironwork, iii, 30
Circular Staircases, iii, 49
City-hall, Hartford, Conn., iii, 124
" New York, N. V., iii, 104,
105
Clarissault, Architect of the Capi-
tol at Richmond? iii, 104
Clark House Doonvav, Caledonia,
N. v., IX. 34
Clarkson, N. V., Doorwav, IX,
33
Classic Revival, The, iii, 90, 94
Classicism of Georgian Design, iii,
9
Clay. Henry iii, 95
Clemson, Calhoun's Son-in-Law, iii,
,95
" College, iii, 95, 99
Climatic Influences affected Colo-
nial Detail, iii, 64
Clock, IIalifa.\, N. S.. Town, iii, 17
Closets, Charleston, S. C. Attic
Wine, iii, 32, 45
Cloth Hall, Newbury, Eng., iii, 7
Club-house, " Fairfield." So. San-
tee Si>ortsman's, iii, 69, 70
Coach-house, Providence, R. I.
Rufus Greene's, iii, 114
Cobb, Athens, Ga. House of Gen.
T. R. R., iii, 118
Coffee-house, Boston, Mass. Ex-
change, iii, 123
" Charleston. S. C,
The ( )ld Carolina,
iii. 3.)
Coleman House, Macon, Ga. The,
iii, 63, 94
Coligny's Attempts at Coloniza
tion. Admiral, iii, 85
College Building, Beauf.)rt, S. C.
Old, iii, 75
" Buildings. Colonial, iii,
I 12
" of Charleston, iii, 32, 33
Collegeville, Pa. Old Trappe
Church, iii, 21
C<.lumbia, Mo. Jefferson's Tomb-
stone at, iii, 25
" S. C. Hoban designs
the .State-liouse at, iii,
108
Common, l-'ortifications on Bos-
ton, iii, I 22
Communal Settlements at Ephrata,
Pa., iii, 20
(Joncord, Mass. Tlie Minot House,
iii. 115
" Concord," near Natchez, Miss. ,1111,
1 63, 112; X, 47
Connecticut. State-house. The Old,
iii, 124
Con\ent, Ursuline, New Orleans,
Fa., XII, 6
Cooper River, S. C. Belvedere
Farmhouse, X, 8
" " " Mulberry Castle,"
iii. 54'
" " Strawberry Church,
XI, 15
Copley. Paintings by J. S., iii, 32
Coquina, iii, 91
" Houses built of, iii, 28
Corbett House, Ipswich, Mass., iii,
12
Corbelled-out Upper Stories, iii, 3
Cornice in the Ball House, Charles-
ton, S. C, X, 15
" Bull - Pringle [Miles
15 r e w t o n] House,
Charleston, S. C, X,
22
Cornwallis's Headquarters, Wil-
mington, N. C, iii, 28
Cost of Massachusetts State-house,
iii, 1 19
" " Restoration of the Bulfinch
Front, iii, 120
" " St. Michael's, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 80
Cottage. A Sea Island, iii, 59
Cotton Belt. The, iii, 97
Council Chamber in Massachu-
setts State-house. A Corner of
the, in, 119
Court-house, P'airfax, Va., iii. 111,
"3
Couper. James Hamilton, iii, 93
Cowles House, Farmington, Conn.,
E n trance to
the J. I,., IX, 17
" " Farmington, C'onn.
The Thomas, iii,
103; IX, 13, 14,
.'5.
Craven Countv, S. C, iii. 67
"Crewe Hall," Malvern Hill, Va.,
iii, 113; XII, 22
Crisp's Map of Charleston, S. C,
Edw., iii, 32
" Crowfield," S. C, iii, 73
Crystal Chandelier. Tlie Brew»ton,
'"' 37
Culpepper. John iii, 32
Cummings, C. A., and the ■■ llul-
finch Front " l'"ight, iii, 1 19
Curfew-bell in Charleston, iii, 44
Currencv. Ratio of Paper to Gold,
iii, 78'
Custom-house. Charleston, S. C
The New, iii, 43
'■ Old, i'i, 40
Cypress. Black, iii. 35
" as a Building Material,
iii, ('(3
— £> —
Dacre. Captain, iii, 123
Dahaw Creek, S. C, iii, 85
Dahlgren, Gen., builds " Dunleitli,"
Miss., iii, 1 1 1
Dalcho's Descri'ption of St. Micii-
ael's, Charleston, iii, 80
Dames. Society of Colonial, iii,
Damon, Capt. Isaac, Architect and
Engineer, iii, 104
Damon's, Capt. Isaac, Buildings.
List of, iii, 105
Dance. The Houlanger, iii, 66
Daniel. Landgrave, Robert, iii, 80
Danvers, Mass. Osborn House,
iii, 13
Dare, the First White Child, Vir-
ginia, iii. 88
Darien, Ga., iii, 92
D.\RTMOUTH, Eng. : —
Butter Walk. The, iii, 4, 5
Doorway, iii, 9
House in Hooper St.. iii, 4
Davies's Camera Work. Mr., iii.
14
Davis, A. J., Architect, iii, 124
" House, Aberdeen, Miss.
The Judge Reulien, XII.
19
" Jefferson, House, Biloxi.
Miss., iii, 99, III; X II, 3
Day House, West .S p r i n g f i e 1 d,
Mass. Josiah, hi, 117; XII, 2
Deaths on German Immigrant
Ships, iii, 18
D'llarriette Tombstone, Charles-
ton, S. C., iii, 46
De Kalb Monument. The, iii, 83
Derby, Pa. "Blue-bell" Tavern,
iii, 24
De Ro.sset House, Wilmington,
N. C, iii, 28
De Saussure, iii, 67
" " Gateway, Charleston,
S. C.', X. 29
" " Homestead near
Camden, S. C, iii,
S3
" " House, Cliarleston,
S. C. The, iii, 31,
46; X, 4
" " Slave Quarters, iii, 31
Destruction of Ancient Buildings.
Wm. Morris on the, iii, 123
Devolution of the Veranda, iii, 64
Diamond, Architect, iii, 107
Dobie, Architect, iii, 107
Dome of Massachusetts State-
house. Fireproofing the, iii, 119,
121
Doorheads, Beaufort, S. C, iii, 75
Doorways, iii, 9, 10
Doorways : —
Belvedere Farmhouse, Cooper
River, S. C, X, 9
Benefit St., Providence, R. I.,
XII, 36
Bull House, Charleston, S. C, iii,
29
Bull - Pringle [Miles Brewton]
House, Charleston, S. C. X,
24
Clark House, Caledonia, N. \ .,
IX, 34
Clarkson, N. Y., IX, 33
Cowles, J. L., House, P'arming-
ton, Conn., IX, 17
Dorking, Paig., iii, 10
PZconomy, Pa., iii, 22
Hayne House, Charleston, ,S. C,
iii, 36
Ileywood House, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 42
Mahogany Doors, Baltimore,
Md., IX, 24
Manton, R. I., XII, 36
Naih'l Russell House, Charles-
ton, S. C, iii, 31 ; X, 12
Newport, R. I., IX, 28, 30, 31
"Octagon House," Washington,
I). C., IX, 32
Philadelphia, Pa., IX, 35; XII,
32
.St. Helena's Church, Beaufort,
S. C, iii, 76
" Mary's Male Academy, Nor-
'folk, Va., X, 37
Stnith Building, Uiii\ersity cf
North Carolina, Chapel Hill,
N. C, iii, 112
Starkweather House, I'awtucket,
R. I., IX, 1
" Stenton." near Philadelphia, Pa.,
IX, 12
Twin Doorways, Providence,
R. I., IX. 27'
"Woodlands," Philadelphia, Pa.,
XII, 29
Dorchester Heights Fortifications,
iii, 122
Doric Hall, Massachusetts State-
house, iii, I 20
Dorking, Eng. Doorway, iii, 10
Dormer-windows at Bethlehem, Pa.,
iii, 20
Dormers. Pennsylvania, iii, 106
Drawing-room, BuU-Pringle House,
Cliai"Iest(m, S. ('.,
X, 19,20,21,22
" W i 1 1 e House,
C'harleston, S. C ,
iii, 41
Drayton. John. iii. 71
EXPI.ANATIDN : — TllO V hllllL"
Part, and bold-face figures .sliowii
s iiulic.ilfd by " iii." All ilUi'itraiiims are indicated by b d-face numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Konian nuincr.ils indicating ilie
; the location of the plate in that fart.
VI
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Drayton. Capt. Fercival, U. S. N., j
iii, 71 I
" Thomas, iii, 71, 90 I
" Gen. Thomas S.,
C. S. A., iii. 71 1
" Wm. Ilenrv. iii, 71
" Hall, Ashley River,
S. C, iii, 36,
55.71; X,39
" " Nort h a m p t o n-
shire, Eng., iii,
" House, Charleston, S. C ,
iii, 35; X- H
" Tomb, '• Magnolia on
the Ashley," S. C,
XI, 20
Drum in the Massachusetts State-
house. Hes.sian, iii, 120
Dry -dock at Port Royal, S. C, iii,
75
Dublin Architecture resembles the
Old Colonial, iii, loS
Du Bosc, iii, 67
Duncan House, Paris, Kv., iii, JOl,
J>3, ir4
"Dunleith," near Natchez, Mi.ss., !
iii, 94, 99, III ; XII, J4
Dutch Building Material. Impor-
tation of. iii, 17
" Church, Halifax, N. S , iii,
)6
" Feeling in Kingston, N. Y.,
iii, 117
" and German Eighteenth-
century Work, iii, 14
" Inn, Kingston, N. Y,, iii,
24
" in South Carolina. The,
iii, 85
Da.xbury, Mass. Mantel in Water-
man Parlor, iii, 108 ; XII, 42
-E —
Earthquake. Effects of the
Charleston, iii, 47
" Wine. The, iii, 32
Easton, Pa. Germans at, iii, 19
Ebenezer, S. C. Germans at, iii, 19
Economy, O. Sketches at, IX, 3
" Pa. Doorway, iii, 22
" " The Harmonists of,
iii, 22
Eden, Governor, and Teach, the
Pirate " Blackbeard," iii, 88
Edenton Bell Bat-tery. The, iii, 88
N. C. St. Paul's Church,
iii, 88
Edgefield, S. C. " Edgewood,"
near, iii, 112; XII, 10, U, 12
" Edgewood," near Edgefield, S. C,
iii, 112; XII, JO, J(, J2
Edict of ?v'antes. The, iii, 67
Edisto Island, S. C. The Edw.
Jenkins House, iii, 85, 89; XI,
1,2
Edmonson House, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 30
" Place, Charleston,
S. C. Gates to, iii,
3o;X,2,3
Eighteenth-century Work. Dutch
and German, iii, 14
Elderkin, John. Carpenter-archi-
tect, 103
Elderkin's, John, Buildings. List
of, iii, 105
" El Dorado," on the South .Santee,
iii, 36, 68; XI, 18, 19
Elizabeth, N. J. The Chetwood
House, iii, J09
Elliott House, Beaufort, S. C. iii,
-(^\ XI, 21, 22
" B e a u f o r t , S. C.
Stair-landing, iii,
77
" " Charleston, S. C,
iii, 50
" " Charleston, .S. ('.,
now a Ptimj>ing-
station, iii, 4S
Elliot House Staircase, Charleston,
S. C. The, iii, 34
English Cottages, IX, 2
" Georges. The, iii, 106
" Iron Mills cause Timber
Famine, iii, 10
" Santee, iii, 67
Entrance to Edmonson House,
Charleston, S. C, X, 2
Ephrata, Pa. Communal Settle-
ment at, iii, 20
" " Germans at, iii, 19
Episcopalians. The Planters were,
iii, 65
Epitaph, Charlestown, Mass. Curi-
ous, iii, 1 17
"Etowah Heights," Ga., iii, J JO,
II I
Everett, A. G., Architect, restores
the " Bulfinch Front," iii, 119
Eutaw Springs, S. C, iii, 67
Evolution of the Wing Pavilion, iii,
58
Exchange Building, Savannah, Ga.,
iii, 90; XII, 8
" Coffee-house, Boston,
Mass., iii, 123
*' and Custom -house,
Charleston, iii, 40
" Maritime, Philadelphia,
Pa., iii, 107
Exeter, Eng. Houses in the High
.Street, iii, 5, 6
" House, on Cooper River.
S. C, iii, 55
— F —
Fairfax Co. Court-house, Fairfax,
Va., iii, J J J, 113
" ^'airfield," on the South Santee,
S. C, iii, 69, 70
Faneuil Hall designed by Peter
Smibert, iii, 103
Faneuil's House, Boston, Mass.
Peter, iii, 1 2 2
Farmington, Conn. : —
Church at, iii, 16, 104, 1C5
Gateway to James P. Cowles
House, IX, J7
Thos. Cowles House, iii, J03 ;
IX, J3, )4, )5
Old House, iii, J J
Fay, Clement K., and the "Bul-
finch Front " Fight, iii, 1 18
" Federal Hill," Bardstown, Ky.,
iii, I J3, 114
Federal Injury to Charleston, iii, 31
" Soldiers in Charleston.
Damage by, iii, 48
Fever in the I.«wlands. Intermit-
tent, iii, 65
Fireplace. .See " Mantelpiece."
" Refining Influence of
the, iii, 64
Fireplaces : —
Brown-Gammell House, Provi-
dence, R. I., XII, 38
Fuller House, Beaufort, S. C,
XI, 24
Hotel, Economy, O., IX, 3
Mulberry Castle, Cooper River,
S. C, iii, 54
Fires. Two Savannah, iii, 90
First Baptist Church, Providence,
R. I., iii, J04, 115; XII, 45
" Church, West Springfield,
Mass., iii, 103
" Presbyterian Church, New-
ark, N. J., iii, 16
Flagg. Paintings by, iii, 32
Flatbush, L. I. The Bergen House,
iii, 1 17
" " " Van d e r V e e r
H o u s e, iii,
116, J24
Flynn's Presbyterian Church,
Charleston, S. C, iii, 40; X, 31
Font in St. Michael's Church,
Charleston, .S. C, iii, 80
Fort Griswold, Groton, Conn.
Gravestones at, iii, J J7
"Fort Hill," House of J. C. Cal-
houn, iii, 95, 99
" Motte," S. C, iii, 68, 10 1
Fortifications about Boston, iii, 122
Frankland's House, Boston, Ma.ss.
Sir Harry, iii, 122
Franklin's Estimate of the German
Population, iii, 19
Fredericksburg, Va. " Kenmore,"
XII, 25, 26
Fredericton, N. B. Government
House, iii, J 7
French-Canadians settle in Louisi-
ana, iii, 99
French Massacre at York, Me., iii,
116
" Santee, S. C, iii, 65
" Traits extant in the Santee
River Region, iii, 65
Friedensthal, Pa., iii, 20
" Friendfield," near Georgetown,
S, C, iii, 5), 52
" Picture-paper Par-
lor, X, J, 44, 45
Frontiersmen. German, iii, 19
Front Rooms. Southern Guests
must have, iii, 1 12
Fuller House, Beaufort, S. C, iii,
76; XI, 25
" " Mantelpiece, Beau-
fort, S. C, XI, 24
Funeral Customs in Charleston,
S. C, iii, 42
Furniture. Old, iii, 36, 38
-G~
Gadsden. Grave of Christopher,
iii, 80
Gallery. See " Veranda "
Galvanized Iron Capitals. Intro-
duction of, iii, 98
Gambrel Roof Myth. The, iii, iS
Game in the French Santee, iii, 71
" " " Georgia, iii, 92
Garden lacks Moisture. The South-
ern, iii, 76
Gardens at " Magnolia on the Ash-
ley," iii, 71
Gate-house, Manigault Place,
Charlestown, .S, C , X, 35
Gateways, Charleston, S. C, iii, 30,
50; X, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, J), 29, 30,
35,37
Gateways : —
Brown-Gammell House, Provi-
dence, R. I., XII, 38
Bull Plantation, Ashley River,
S. C, iii, 56
Cowles House, Farmington,
Conn , iii, J03; IX, J4
De Saussure House, Charles-
ton, S. C, X, 4, 29
Edmonson, (Jeo., Place, Charles-
ton, S. C, iii, 30; X, 2,3
Heyward Estate, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 44
Nath'l Heyward Place, Charles-
ton, S. C, X, Jl
Holmes Place, Charleston, S. C,
X, 6
Parson's Plantation, Goose
Creek, S. C, iii, 55
St. Helena's Churchvard, Beau-
fort, S. C, XI, '14
" Michael's, Charleston, XI, 6,
7
Simonton, Charleston, S. C, iii,
30; X, 29, 30
Gauffre, iii, 67
Gemeinhaus, Bethlehem, Pa., iii, 18,
>9
George's, Prince, Church. George-
town, S. C, iii, 52, 87 ; X, 40, 41
Georgia Sea I.sland Cottage. A,
iii, 58
Georgian Architecture and Car-
pentry, iii, I
Georgian Architecture in Que-
bec, iii, 15
" Style. The, iii, 106
Georgetown, S. C, iii, 49
Georgetow.n, S. C: —
" Friendfield," near, iii, 5J ; X,
I, 44, 45
Prince George's Church, iii, 52,
87; X, 40, 41
Pyatt House. The, iii, 64 ; X,
41
Tombs in Prince George's Church-
yard, iii, 35
German Eighteenth-century Work,
iii, 14
" Frontiersmen, iii, 19
" Immigration, iii, 16, 18
" .Settlements in South Caro-
lina and Virginia, iii, 19
Germantown, Pa., iii, 19
" Quincy, Mass., iii, 19
Germans. Franklin's Estimate of
Number of, iii, 19
Gerry. Elbridge, iii, 1 20
Ghost of " Yeaman's Hall." The,
iii, 56, 73
Gibbes House, Charleston, S. C,
X, J4
Gibbs's. Peter Harrison a Pupil
of James, iii, 103
Gibbs. Possibly Architect of St.
Michael's, Charleston, S. C, iii,
79
Gibson [Gibbs ?], Architect of St.
Michael's, Charleston, iii, 79
Gilmer House, Savannah, Ga , iii,
89
" Gloria Dei " Church, Philadelphia,
iii, 21
Gnadenthal, Pa., iii, 20
(iodfrey House, HoUingbourne,
Kent, Eng,, iii, J
Goose Creek, S. C. Entrance to Par-
son's Planta-
tion, iii, 55
" Church, iii, 86,
87
Pulpit,
X I,
)7
Gordon, Wm., plans Flynn's
Church, Charleston, S. C, iii, 40
Gore. Christopher, iii, 120
Gorges, Sir P'erdinando, attempts
to found a Dynasty, iii, 116
Gorgiana, Me., iii, 1 1 5
Goudhurst, Kent, Eng., Doorway,
iii, 10
" " " House near,
IX, 2
Government House, Fredericton,
N. B., iii,
J7
Halifax, N. S,
iii, J 5, 17
Gov. Tryon's Palace, Wilmington,
N. C, iii, 28
Grady, Henry W., House at
Athens, Ga., iii, J08
Grandpre, Spanish Governor, iii. 64
(jrave of J. C. Calhoun, Charleston,
iii, 81
" Gravel Hill," Santee, S. C, iii, 67
Gravestone, see " Tombstone "
Gravestones, iii, J)7
Greek Movement in the South, iii,
107
" Revival. The, iii, 94, io5
" " and Some Other
Things, iii, 106
Greene. John, Amateur Architect,
iii, 104
Greene's Coach-house, Providence,
R. I. Rufus, iii, J J4
" John, Buildings. List of,
iii, 105
Greenwood, Ala., iii. 97
" Greenwood," near Thomasville,
Ga., XII, 3
Explanation ; — The Volume is indicated by"iii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicatitig the
Part, and bold-face figures showing the localioii of the plate in that Part.
GENERAL INDEX OE TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
Vll
Gioton, Conn, (iravestones in, iii,
1)7
Guest-rooms. Front Rooms for
Southern, iii, 1 12
Gunston ilall, on the Potomac, iii,
114
Guillard. Capt., iii, 67
-H —
Hale, Rev. E. E., on proposed De-
struction of the " Bulfinch Front,"
Boston, Mass., iii, 120
Half-timbering, iii, 2
H.\LIFAX, N. S.
Admiralty House, iii, 17
Dutch Church at, iii, )6
Government House, iii, JSj 17
Old Town Clock, iii, J 7
Province Building, iii, J 7
St. George's Church, iii, J4, 16
** Paul's Church, iii, J6
Swell Fronts, iii, 17
"Hall, Drayton," on the Ashley
River, S. C, iii, 36, 55
Hamilton, Andrew, Architect, iii,
104, 105
Hamilton's House, " Woodlands,"
Philadelphia, Pa. William, XH,
J, 28, 29, 30
" Hampton," on the South Santee,
iii, 66, 67, 68, 69 ;
XI, J9
" Gen. Marion's Escape
from, iii, 39
Hampton, Va. St. John's Church,
iii, 84, 85
Hampton's great Fortune. Gen.
Wade, iii, 42
Hancock House, Boston, Mass., iii,
Hanover, Va., Court-house, iii, 113
Hansell House, Rosewell, Ga., iii,
96,98
Harmonists of Economy, Pa. The,
iii, 22
Harrisburg, Pa. Paxtang Church,
iii, 23
Harrison's, Peter, Buildings. List
of, iii, 105
Hartford, Conn. City-hall, iii, 124
Harwood House, Annapolis, Md.,
iii, 118
Havard, A., Architect of St.
Stephen's, Santee, iii, 67
Haydel's " Home Place," St. Char-
les Parish, La., iii, iii ; XH, 4
"Hayes," near Edenton, N. C,
iii, 88
Hayne House, Charleston, S. C,
iii. 35. 36, 39
" the Martyr. Col. Isaac, iii,
40
Haywood [Lynch] Mantel, Charles-
ton, S. C, X, 34
Hepworth. Grave of Chief Justice
"Thomas, iii, 80
"Hermitage. The" Nashville,
Tenn., iii,
95, 109,
XH, 44
" " on the Savan-
nah River,
Ga., iii, 91,
92. 97 !
XII, 43, 44
Hessian Drum in Ma.s.sachusetts
State-house, iii, 120
" Prisoners make the Ceil-
ings at " Kenmore," iii,
1 12
Heyward Estate, Charleston, S. C,
Entrance to, iii, 44
" Nath'l., House, Charles-
ton, S. C, iii, :sT„ 34;
X, 10, n
Heyward's Drawing-room, Charles-
ton, .S. C. Judge,
X, 17
" House, Charleston,
S. C, Judge Thos.
iii, 34, 48
Heywood House, Charleston, S. C,
Entrance to, iii, 42
High Hills of the Santee : —
The, iii, 67
"Millford," in the, XII, J 7
Hingham, Mass. The " Old Ship,"
iii, 81
Hite House, Winchester, Va., iii,
n3, 114
Hoadley, David, Designer of North
Church, New Haven, Conn., iii,
105
Hoban, James, Architect of the
" White House," iii, 107, 108,
109
Holland. Building Material im-
ported from, iii. 17
Ilollingbourne, Kent, Eng. God-
frey House, iii, J, 2
Holmes House, Charleston, S. C,
iii, 31 ; X, 6
" James Gadsden, Sr., iii, 31
" Home Place," St. Charles Parish,
La., iii, iii; XII, 4
" Homewood," Baltimore, Md., iii,
60
Hooker, PhiHp, Architect of Boys'
Academy, Albany, N, Y., iii, 105
" Hopeton House," on the Altama-
ha, Ga., iii, 93
Hopkins, Stephen, Architect, iii,
"5
Horry House, Charleston, S. C,
iii, 48; X, 36
" " Burning of the, iii,
39
" Mrs. Daniel, iii, 39, 69
" Slave Quarters, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 39
Hotel, Beaufort, S. C. Sea Island,
iii, 77
" Nottoway Co., Court
House, Va., iii, J 09
Houmas House, on the Mississippi,
iii, 94
House. Typical Charleston, S. C,
X,5
Huger, iii, 67
Huguenot Immigrants. The first,
iii, 66
" Names, iii, 53
" I'lanters, iii, 65
" Temple, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 36, 40
Huguenots and the Parish of St.
Denis, S. C, iii, 87
" were poor. The French
iii, 90
Hull, Com., visits Boston State-
house, iii, 123
Hutchinson's, Gov., House, Boston,
Mass., iii, 122
Hyde, J., Architect of St. Philip's
(Third) Church, Charleston, S. C.
— I —
Iberville Parish, La., "Belle
Grove," iii, 94, 1 1 1 ; XII, t6
Immanuel Church, New Castle,
Del., iii, 21
Imported Materials. The Matter
of, iii, 84
Independence Hall, Philadelphia,
Pa., iii, 104, 105
Independent Presbyterian Church,
Savannah, Ga., iii, 98
Indian Massacre at York, Me., iii,
116
" Warfare and overhanging
Stories, iii, 1 1
Indiana State-house, iii, 124
Indigo. The First So. Carolina,
iii, 56
" Inglehurst," Macon, Ga., iii, 112;
XII, n
Inn, Kingston, N. Y. Dutch, iii, 24
" See " Tavern "
Inns. Pennsylvania, iii, 24
Ipswich, Mass. Corbett House,
iii, J2
Ipswich, Ma.ss., Saltonstall House,
iii, 12
" " Whipple House,
iii, I !
Iredell Family. The, iii, 88
Iron Gates, St. Michael's ('hurch,
Charleston, S. C, XI, 6
" Mills cause Timber Panic.
English, iii, 10
Ironwork. Wrought, iii, 34, 47,
109; X, 7
Ironworker. Werner, a Charleston,
iii, 30
Island Cottage. Georgia Sea, iii,
58,59
" S. C. Edi.sto, iii, 85, 89
Isle of Wight, Va. St. Peter's, iii,
Italian Mural Decorations, iii, ^(>
Izard House, Charleston, iii, -^'^^ 38
-J
• White House.'
Jackson and the
Andrew, iii, 95
Jackson's House at Nashville.
"The Hermitage," iii, 95, 109;
XII, 44
Jail, York, Me. Old, iii, J J 5, 116
Jamaica, L. I. The King Manor
House, iii, 13 ; IX, J 6
Jardella. Sculptor, Giuseppe, iii,
24
Jay, an English Architect in Savan-
nah, iii, 89, 91
Jefferson, I'homas, Amateur Ar-
chitect, iii, 103, 107
" Founder of the Univer-
sity of Va., iii, 25
Jefferson's House " Monticello," iii,
13, 27, 104, 115; IX,
8,9, )0, J I
" Tombstone. Thomas,
iii, 25
Jenkins House, Edisto Island, S. C.
TheEdw., 111,85,89; XI, J, 2
Jerked Meat, iii, 67
Jockey Club Ball. The, iii, 60
" " Madeira, iii, 32
Joggling Board. The, iii, 45
Johnson, Ebenezer, Designer of
United Church, New
Haven, Conn., iii, 105
" Grave of Gov. Robert,
iii, 80
" Grave of William, iii, 80
" Rev. John, iii, 82
" Journal of Life on a Georgia Plan-
tation," iii, 93
Justi, A., Ironworker, iii, 79
— K —
Kearsley, Dr. John, Architect, iii,
104, 105, 107
Kemble's Marriage with Pierce But-
ler. Fanny, iii, 93
" Kenmore," Fredericksburg, Va.,
iii, 113; XII, 25,
26
" much like " Wood-
lawn," iii, 1 13
King Manor House, Jamaica, L. L,
iii, 13; IX, 16
" House. Rufus, iii, 1 1
" King" Roger Moore, iii, 28
Kingston, N. Y. Dutch Feeling in,
iii, 117
" " Old Dutch Inn,
iii, 24
" " The Ten Broeck
House, iii, 1 17
" " Van Steenbergh
House, iii, 1 17
Kitchens. Outside, iii, 45
Kneelers, iii, 7
Knox Headquarters, Newburgh,
N. Y. Gen., iii, 20
— L,—
Labadist Settlement
Manor, Md., iii, 19
at Bohemia
Lafayette visits the Massachusetts
State-house, iii, 120, 123
La Grange, Cia., iii, 97
Lamphire, Architect, iii, 107
Lancaster, Pa. Germans at, iii, 19
Lane's Junction, S. C, iii, 50
Latrobe, Benjamin II., Architect,
iii, 107
Laurens, iii, 67
" House, Charleston, ,S. C,
iii. Vo^ 34
" Minister to Holland.
Henry, iii, 33
"Lausanne," the De Saussure
Homestead, S. C, iii, 83
Lawrence, L. I. " Rock Ilall,"
XII, 33
Legare, iii, 67
Lee, Col. Henry, and the Massa-
chusetts State-house, iii, 120, 122
Lee's, Gen. R. E., House, "Arling-
ton," iii, no; XII, 20
Leigh. Grave of Chief Justice
Peter, iii, 80
Leinster House, Dublin, Ireland,
iii, 1 16
L'Enfant. Pierre, Architect, iii,
109
" Designer of Robert
Morris's House, iii,
24
" Les Chenes," iii, 99
Lewis, Lawrence, iii, 113
Lewis's, Col. Fielding, House " Ken-
more," iii, 113; XII, 25, 26
Leydon House, Atlanta, Ga., XII,
13
Lillybridge House, Savannah, Ga.,
X, 32
LinwoodjGa. The Shepherd House,
iii, 60
Lititz, Pa. Germans at, iii, 19
Live Oak. A Giant, iii, 73
Liverpool, now Wilmington, N. C,
iii, 28
Lodge, Charleston, S. C. College
of Charleston Ciate, iii, 32
Logan, Grave of John, iii, 80
" James, Secretary to Wm.
Penn, iii, 22
" House, " Stenton," James,
iii, 2 2
Long, Gov., and the Massachusetts
State-house, iii, 123
Longfellow House Verandas. The,
iii, 62
Lorentz, a Charleston Silk -mer-
chant, iii, 30
Lorio, George, House of, in St.
Charles Parish, La., XI 1, 5
" Lower Brandon," Va., iii, 60
" " Carpenter's
Capitals at,
iii, 62
Loundes. Grave of Gov. Rawlans,
iii. So
" [Waggoner] House,
Charleston, S. C, iii,
49 ; X, 33
Lutheran Settlement, Waldoboro,
Me., iii, 19
-M-
McAlpin House, " The Hermitage,"
on tlie Savannah
River, (ia., iii,
97, 109; XII,
43,44
" " Savannah, Ga.,
iii, 95, 96
McBean, Architect of .St. Paul's
Chapel, New York, N. \ ., iii,
103, 105
McComb, Architect of N. 'S . City-
hall, John, iii, 102, 104, 105, 107
"Mclntire Garrison," 'i'ork. Me.,
iii, 1 15, li<J
Mclntire, Samuel, Architect of
South Church, Salem, Mass., iii,
105, 107
Explanation : —The Vohime is indicated by "iii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face numerals.
Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of the plate in ihat Part.
The full-page plates ar« indicated by Roman numerals indicating the
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
McKim. Mead & White, Architects,
iii. z~
Macon, Ga. The Coleman House,
iii, 63, 04
" " Inglehnist," near,
iii'; 112; XU, Jl
i[adeira Wines, iii, 32
Madison, Ga. The Safford Home-
stead, near, XH, J 8
" " Montpelier,"Va. Home
of, James, XH, 2(
Magazine, Charleston, S. C. The
Spanish Powder, iii,
40
" Somen'ille, Mass., Tow-
der. iii, J06
'• Magnolia, on the Aslilev,'' iii, 71,
72
Malbone, iii, 36, 38
Male Academy, Norfolk, Va. St.
Marv's, iii. 65
Malvern Hill. Va., '• Crewe Hall,"
iii. 113; XH, 22
Manigault, iii, 67
" Dr. Gabriel, iii, 32
" Gate-house, Charleston,
S. C„ X, 35
" House, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 51
Manning. Governor, iii, loi
•' Homestead, High Hills
of Santee, S. C, iii,
100; XH, J7
Manor House, Jamaica, L. I. The
King, iii, 13; IX, J 6
Mansion House, Wilmington, N. C,
iii, 28
M.\NTEI,I'IF,CE :
Ball House, Charleston, S. C,
X, )3
Baltimore, Md., IX, 25
Baptist Parsonage, Beaufort.
S. C, X, 34
" Belvedere," Cooper River, S. C,
X, 8
" Blueford." iii, 69
BuU-Pringle [Miles Brewton]
House, Charleston. S. C, X,
2J
Cowles House, Farming ton.
Conn., IX, )5
Fuller-house Dining-room, Beau-
fort, S. C, XI,24
" Hampton," on the Santee, S. C.
Parlor, iii, 67
Haywood [Lynch] House, Char-
leston, S. C., X, 34
"Prospect Hill," W ace am aw
River, S. C, X, 43
Waterman Parlor, D u x b u r y,
Mass., iii, 108; XII, 42
Manton, R. I., Doorway, XII, 36
Marion's Escape from " Hampton."
Gen., iii, 39
" House, " Belle Isle." Gen.
iii, 67, 68, 69
Maritime E.xchange, Philadelphia,
Pa., iii, J07
Market, Charleston, S. C, iii, y^,
4H, 49
Market-house, Providence, R. I.,
designed by Jos. Brown, iii, 115
Marmillion Place, Parish of St.
John the Baptist, La., XII, 4
Martvr Worthing, Hants, Eng., iii,
3 '
Mason, Geo. C, Architect, iii, 21 j
Mason -Smith Houses, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 35 ,
Massachusetts Institute of Tech-|
nology. Drawings made by Stu-
dents of, iii, 1 24 I
Mass.\chi;setts St.\tf,-hoi:sk : ^
Andrew's, Gov., Work in the, iii,
Brigham's v\nne.x to, iii, 121
liryant's Addition to, iii, 119
Bulfiiich appointed Architect, iii,
119
M.\SSAl'lHSKl-fS ST.Vl'E-HOfSK :
Bullinch Front. Efforts to pre-
serve, iii, 1 18,
119
" " B e f o r e and
after Resto-
ration, XII,
4)
Cost of, iii, 1 19
" " Restoration of the " Bul-
finch P'ront," iii, 120
Council Chamber. A Corner of
the, iii, J 19
Dome. P'ireproofing the, iii, 1 19,
121
Doric Hall. Webster's Speech
in, iii, 120
Everett, A. G., restores the Bul-
finch Front, iii, 1 1 9
Long, Gov., and the, iii. 123
Senate Chamber. Ends of old,
iii, 120; XII. 40
Washburn's Alterations in, iii,
119, 121
Massacre at York, Me., iii, 116
•• J/(;)'//c';i'tv'j" Mate, I'lymouth,
Mass. Gravestone of the, iii,
117
Mayo, Architect, iii, 107
Mazycks, iii, 67
"Meadow Garden," near Augusta,
Ga., iii. 111
Medford, Mass., Brickyards, iii, 84
" Medvvay," House of Landgrave
Thomas Smith, iii, 73
Men who designed the Old Colo-
nial BuilcUngs, iii, 102
Michau.x, Land-scape-gardener lays
out "Middleton Place," iii, 72
Middleton. Mr. Wm. and the
Queen's Gardener,
iii, 72
" Place, on the Ashley
River, S. C, iii, 55,
72
" Tomb, Ashley River,
S. C. The, XI, 20
Midwife's Epitaph. A, iii, 1 17
" Milford," the Instate of Gen.
Moultrie, iii, 67
"Millford," in the High Hills of
Santee, S. C, iii, 100; XII, J7
Mills-Ward House, Salem, Mass.,
iii, 13
Minot House, Concord, Mass., iii,
115
Mint, Philadelphia, Pa., designed
by Strickland, iii, 107
Minus House, Savannah, Ga. The,
iii, 92
" Mirror of Architecture" iii, 6
Mobile, Ala. " Ashlands," near,
iii, 112; XII, 13
Monastery at Quincy, Pa. Snow
Hill, iii, 22
Money. Proclamation, iii, 78
Monograms in Ironwork, iii, 30
" Monmouth," near Natchez, Miss.,
XII, 14
Monroe visits Boston. President,
iii, 120, 123
" Montebello," near Natchez, Miss.,
iii, 99, III ; XII. 20
" Monticello," near Charlottesville,
Va., iii, 13, 27, 104, 115; IX, 8,
9, 10, 1 1
"Montpelier," Va., iii, 115 ; XII, 21
" d e s i g n e d by Dr.
Thornton, iii, 115
Monument. Bunker Hill, iii, 123
" What is a, iii, 122, 123
Moore. Gov. James, iii, 28
" " King" Roger, iii, 28
Moravian l^uildings, Bethlehem,
Pa., iii, 18
" Church, Bethlehem, Pa.,
iii, 19, 20
Salem, N. C,
iii, 22
" Settlements, iii, 20
Morgan, (jen., iii, 67
Morris. Details from House of
Robert, iii. 23
" Wm., on the Destruction
of Ancient Buildings, iii,
Morris's House designed by I^'En-
fant, iii, 24
Motte Bible restored by English-
men. The, iii, 48, 68
" Fort, iii, 36, 68, 101
" Grave of Col. Isaac, iii, 80
" " " Rebecca, iii, 80
" Mrs. Rebecca Brewton, iii.
Moultrie's Estate, " Milford." Gen.,
iii, 67
"Mount Airy,'' oit the Rappahan-
nock, Va., iii, 114; XII, 22, 23
"Mount Bristol," Beaufort, S. C,
iii, 75
" Mount Vernon." Arcades at, iii.
114
" " Stables, iii, 1 1 5
" " Veranda at, iii,
62
"Mulberry Castle," Cooper River,
S. C, iii, 54 ; X, 38
" Mulberry Towers," Home of the
Broughtons, iii, 73
Munday, Richard, Architect of
Newi)ort Town -hall, iii, 103, 105
Mural Decorations imported from
Italy, iii, 36
Murray on I'lantation Life. Hon.
Amelia, iii, 93
-N-
Nantes. The Edict of, iii, 67
Nashville, Tenn. "The Hermit-
age," iii, 109 ;
XII, 44
" " House of Jas.
K. Polk, iii,
109; XII, 43
The P,riars," near,
iii, 62
" " " Concord," near,
iii, 63, 112 ; X,
47
" " " Dunleith," near,
iii, 94, 99, III;
XH, 14
" " " Monmouth " near,
XII, 14
" " " Montebello," near,
iii, 99, III;
XII, 20
" " Settled in 1720, iii,
99
"Windy Hill,"
near, XII, 19
Naval Asylum, Philadelphia, Pa.,
designed by Strickland, iii, 107
Nazareth Hall, iii, 20
" Pa. Barony of, iii, 20
Negro School now uses the Scarbor-
ough House, Savannah, iii, 91
Newark, N. J., P'irst Presbyterian
Church, iii, 16,
IX, 23
" " Trinity Church, iii,
16, IX, 23
C. Gov. Tryon's
Natchez, Miss.
New Berne, N
Palace, iii, 23, 28
Newburgh, N. Y. Gen. Knox's
Headquarters, iii. 20
Newbury, ling. Cloth Hall, iii. 7
New Castle, Del. I m m a n u e 1
Church, iii, 21
New Haven, Conn. State-house
designed by Ithiel Towne, iii, 124
" Newlanders." The, iii, 18
Newnan, Ga. Calhoun Home-
stead, iii, 60, 98 ; X, 46
New Orleans, La. A r c h b i s h o p's
Palace, XII, 7
" " " Old Barracks,
XII, 5
" " " Ursuline C o n-
vent, XII, 6
New Orleans, La. .Settlement of, iii,
89
Newport, R. I. Doorways, IX, 28,
29, 30, 31
" " Town-hall, iii, 103
" " Trinity Church, iii,
21; IX, 20, 21,
22
Newton Abbott, Eng. Doorway,
iii, 9
New York, N. Y: —
i Apthorpe House, XII, 33
Churchyards, iii, 117
City-hall, iii, 102, 104, 105
Old House in Park Ave., iii, 61
St. John's Chapel, iii, 105
" Paul's Chapel, iii, 105
Vandenheuvel House, iii, 17
\ Nichols Stable-yard, Providence,
R. I., iii, 114
Nicholsoir House, Philadelphia,
Pa., designed by L'Enfant, iii,
I 109
Norfolk, Va. Door to St. Mary's
Male Academy, iii, 63; X, 37
North Carolina. The German Set-
tlements in, iii,
22
" " State House, de-
signed by Ithiel
Towne, iii, 107,
124
Nottoway Co. Court House, Va.,
Old Hotel, iii, )09
-o—
" Oak Tree " Tavern, Montgomery
Co., Pa., iii, 24
" Oakes. The," near Goose Creek
Church, S. C, iii, 73
" Oatlands," Loudon Co., Va., XII,
27
" Octagon House " Doorsvay, Was.-
ington, D. C. IX, 32
Oglethorpe Lands at Yamacraw,
Ga., iii, 89
" Old .Ship." Hingham, Mass., iii, 81
" Swedes Church, Wilmington,
Del., iii, 21; IX, 4, 5
" Old Trappe" Church, CoUegeville,
Pa., iii, 21
Orangeburg, S. C. The Germans
at, iii, 19, 88
Orange Quarter, S. C, iii, 87
Order of the Choragic Monument
of Lysicrates, iii, 1 10
" " " Temple of the Winds,
iii, 109
Organ in St. Michael's Church,
Charleston, iii, 46
Ort<m I'lantation, Wilmhigton,
N. C, iii, 28
Osborn House, Danvers, Mass., iii,
13
Oversailing Stories, iii, 3, 11
Owens House, Savannah, Ga. The,
iii, 91. 92
— P —
Palace, Archbishop's, New Orleans,
La., XII, 7
" New Berne, N. C, Gov.
Tryon's, iii, 23, 28
Paper Money in South Carolina,
Early, iii, 78
Paris, Ky. The Maj. Duncan
House, iii, 101, 1 13, 114
Parish, St. Charles, La. " Home
Place," iii, in; XII, 5
" St. Charles, La. House of
George Lorio, XII. 5
" St. James's. S. C, iii, 67
" St. John the Baptist, La.
Marmillion House, XII,
4
St. John's, S. C, iii, 67
" St. Stephens. S. C, iii, 67
Parishes. So. CaroHna divided
into, iii, 87
ExiM.AN \TinN : — Tlie Vftlume is iiulicated by " il
Part, and buld-facc figures sliuwing the: lixjaiion uf tli
." All illuslmiirms are indicated by bold-face numerals. The fuU-liage plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the
: plale m tli.u i'art.
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
IX
Park Ave. House, New York,
N. Y., iii,6J
" St. Church, Boston, Mass.,
iii, 21, 103, 105; IX, J8
Parsonage, Beaufort, S. C, Baptist,
iii, 76
Parson's Plantation. Entrance to
Goose Creek, S. C, iii, 55
Pastorius, iii, 19
Patroon of the Manor of Tarry-
town, iii, 21
Pawtucket, R. I. Entrance to
Starkweather House, IX, \
Pa.xtang Church, Harrisburg, Pa.,
iii, 23
Peale's Portrait of- Washington at
" Lausanne," iii, 83
Peirce, D. H., House, Portsmouth,
N. H., iii, J2J
Pell, Edward, Architect of Hanover
St. Church, Boston, Mass., iii,
Penn and the German Immigration.
\Vm., iii, 18
" Wm., a Protector of Andrew
Hamilton, iii, 104
Pennsylvania Architecture affected
by Welsh Influ-
ence, iii, 106
" Dutch, iii, 17
" German Settlements
in, iii, 19
" and the German Im-
migrants, iii, 18
Percy, Rev. Dr., Vicar of St. Paul's,
Radchffeboro, iii, 40
Pew House, Madison, Ga., iii, 94
Philadelphi.v, P.\. : —
Christ Church, iii, 104, 105
Doorways, IX, 35 ; XII, 32
Independence Hall, iii, 104, 105
Maritime Exchange, iii, J07
Mint designed by Strickland, iii,
107
Naval Asylum designed by
Strickland, iii, 107
Nicholson House, designed by
L'Enfant, iii, 109
St. Bartholomew's Church, iii,
104, 105
St. Peter's Church, iii, 86
"Woodlands," House of Wm.
Hamilton, iii, 115; XII, J, 28,
29,30
Philipse. Frederick, iii, 21
Phips's House, Boston, Mass. Sir
Wm., iii, 122
Piazza. See " Veranda."
Piazzas. Cantilever, iii 1 1 1
Pickens. Gov. F. W. and his
Guest-rooms, iii, 1 1 2
Pickens's House " E d g e w o o d."
Gov., iii, 112; XII, JO, Jl, J2
Piitu re paper Parlor: "Friend-
field," near Georgetown, S. C,
X, 1,44,45
Pierretonds. The Mantelpieces at,
iii, 15
Pillau, in, (17
Knckney, Chief Justice Charles, iii,
80
" p'amily. The, iii, 69
" Gen. Charles Cotesworth,
iii, 70
" Gen. Thomas, iii, 70
" Grave of Gen. Thomas,
iii, 80
Pineville, S. C, a Summer Resort,
iii, 65
Pirate " Blackbeard " and Gov.
Eden, iii, 88
" Steed Bonnet. The, iii, 38
" Plaisance Plantation," iii, 99
Plan of Charleston Houses. The
Type, iii, 31
" " the'ilorry House, Char-
leston, S. C, iii, 39
" " Nath'l. Russell House,
Charleston, S. C, iii, 31
Plantation Houses better than City
Houses, iii, 48
Plantation life as seen by the Hon.
Amelia Murray, iii, 93
Plastered External Walls, iii, 3
Plymouth, Mass. Gravestone of
the " Alayflower's " Mate, iii, 1 1 7
Pohick Church, near Alexandria,
Va., iii, 86
Polk's House, Nashville, Tenn.
President, iii, 109; XII, 43
Pompion Ilill Chapel, S. C, iii, 87
" " " Pulpit, XI,
J7
Porch of Fuller House, Beaufort,
S. C, XI, 23
" The Georgian iii, 8
Porches, iii, 67
Portico of Massachusetts State-
house, iii, I 7
Portrait of Washington at " Lau-
sanne." Peale's, iii, 83
Portraits, iii, 36
Port Royal Naval Station, S. C,
iii. 75
Portsmouth, N. FI. D. H. Peirce
House, iii, J2J
Post-Georgian Architecture, iii, 107
Post-office. The Charleston, S. C,
iii, 53
Powder Magazine. Charleston,
S. C, Old
Spanish, iii,
40
" " Williamsburg,
Va., iii, 40
" Tower, Somerville, Mass.,
iii, J 06
Presbyterian Church : —
C h arles t on, S. C,
Flynn's, iii, 40
" (Independent) Church,
Savannah, Ga., iii,
98
" Newark, N. J., First,
iii, 16; IX, 23
Col., builds " Burnside,"
House, Llanerch, Pa.,
Church, George-
,52. S7; X, 40,41
Preston
iii, I II
Prichett's
XII, 31
Prince George's
town, S. C, ii
Pringle House. See " Bull-Pringle.
" The Misses, iii, 37
Prioleau, iii, 67
Proclamation Money, iii, 78
Professors' Houses, Univ. of Va.,
Charlottesville, Va., IX, 7; iii,
25, 26, 27
" Prospect Hill." Waccamaw River,
S. C, iii, 52; X,42, 43
Providenck, R. I.; —
Bank Building, iii, 105,115; XII,
39
Board of Trade Building, iii. 115
Brown-C^ammell House, XII, 37,
38; iii, 115; XII, 37,38
Coach-house. The Rufus (jreene,
iii, 114
Doorway on Benefit St.. XII, 36
Episcopal Church, iii, 104
First Baptist Church, iii, 104,
115; XII, 45
First Congregational Church, iii,
104
First Universalist Church, 111,
104
Houses in, iii, 103
Market-house, iii, 115
Twin Doorways, IX, 27
Wrought Ironwork, iii, 109
Province Building, Halifax, N. S.,
iii, 17
" House, Boston, Mass., iii,
122
Pulpit: —
Goose Creek Church, S. C, XI,
17
Pompion Hill Chapel, near Char-
leston, S. C, XI, 17
St. Michael's Church, Charleston,
S. CXI, 8
Quakers.
Quarters
Quebec.
Pui.piT: —
Trinity Church, Newport, R. I.,
IX, 20
Pyatt House, Georgetown, S. C,
iii, 64; X, 41
-Q-
The Philadelphia, iii, 19
for Brewton Slaves,
Charleston, S. C, iii,
37
De Saussure Ser-
vants', iii, 31 ; X, 4
Horry Slave, iii, 39
Slave, iii, 45
Georgian Architecture
in, iii, 15
Queen Victoria's Madeira bought in
Charleston, iii, 32
" Queen's Building." Rutgers Col-
lege, designed by McComb, iii,
1 12
Quincy, Mass. Room in Cottage
of John and Abigail
Adams, XII, 2
" Pa., Snow Hill Monastery,
iii, 22
Quincy's Account of Charleston,
S. C. Josiah, iii, 42
-R —
Radcliffeboro', S, C. St. Paul's
Church, iii, 40
Railroad. The first South Caro-
lina, iii, 100
Randolph Family, iii, 25
" Ranges " at the University of
Virginia, iii, 26
Ravenel. Rene, iii, 67
Ravenel's Savannah, " Wantout."
Daniel, iii, 67
Rawdon and Gen. Marion in the
Santee Region. Lord, iii, loi
Rawdon'; Headquarters the Brew-
ton House. Lord, iii, 48
Rawlinson Farm, Rolvenden, Kent,
Eng., iii, 2, 3
Reading, Pa. Germans at, iii, 19
" Ready Made." The Epoch of
the, iii, 1 16
" Redemptioners. The," iii, iS
Redemptionist Movement. The,
iii, 19
" Red Lion " Tavern, Philadelphia
Co., Pa., iii, 23
Revival. The Classic, iii, 90, 94
" " Greek, iii, 94, 106
Revolutionary Legends about
Mulberry Castle, iii, 55
Reynolds's Portrait of Miles Brew-
ton. Sir Joshua, iii, 38
Rhett. Col. Wm. and the Pirate
Bonnet, iii. 38
" Grave of William, iii. So
" House, Charleston, S. C,
iii, 38
Rhodes. Samuel, Architect of
Penna. Hospital, Philadelphia,
Pa., iii, 105
Rice. The first South Carolina,
iii, 33
Richmond Capitol designed by
Clarissault, iii, 104
" Va. Van Lew House,
iii, 122
Roanoke Island, N. C, iii, 88
Robbins, Edw., appointed an .'\gent
for building Massachusetts State-
house, iii, 1 19
Rochester, Eng., Houses, iii, 6, 7
N. Y. The Jno. Childs
House, iii, 94, no
'■ Rock Hall," Lawrence, L. I., XII,
33
" Rocks, The," a Santee Savannah,
iii, 67
Rolvenden, Kent, Eng. Rawlin-
son Farm, iii, 2, 3
" Layne, Kent, Eng.
Weslev's Cottage,
iii, 2
Rosewell, Ga. The Bulloch House,
iii, 96, 98
" " The Ilansell House,
iii, 96, 98
Rotunda. University of Virginia,
Charlottesville, Va., iii, 26 ; IX. 6
Rowan P'amily. "Federal Hill,"
the Homestead of the, iii, 113
Royal Coat-of-Arms, iii, 57
Rumford House. Woburn, Mass.
Count, XII, 34
Russell, Nath'l, House, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 30,31, 39; X, 12
Rutgers College has a Building by
John McComb, iii, 112
Rutledge. Grave of Edward, iii. So
" Mrs. Henry, iii, 68
-S-
Safford Homestead, near Madison,
Ga. The, XII, 18
St. Andrew's, on the Ashley, S. C,
iii, 87; XI, 15
Augustine, Fla. Spanish Settle-
ments at, iii, 89
Bartholomew's Church, Phila-
delphia, Pa., iii, 104, 105
Catherine's Island, Ga. Tabby-
built Cabins, iii, 75
Charles Parish, La. "Home
Place,"
iii. III:
XII, 4
" " " Home of
George
Lorio,
XII, 5
Denis. Church of, iii, 87
Dunstan's Feat, iii, i
George's Church, Halifax, N. S.,
iii, 14, 16
Helena's Church, Beaufort,
S. C, iii, 76; XI, 13
James's, Goose Creek, S. C,
iii, 86, 87
" Parish, S. C, iii, 67
" Santee, iii, 48, 65, 68,
86; XI, 11, 12
John the Baptist, La. Mar-
million House, Parish
of, XII, 4
John's Chapel, New York,
N. Y., iii, 105
" Church, Hampton, Va.,
iii, 84, 85
" College, Annapolis, Md.,
iii, 1 1 2
" Parish, S. C, iii, 67
Joseph's in the Courtyard,
Philadelphia, Pa., IX, 35
lulien, iii, 67, 90
Luke's, Smithfield, Va., iii, 85
Martin's-in-the-Field, L o n d o n,
Memin's Engravings, iii, 36
Mary's Male Academy, Norfolk,
Va., iii, 63
Michael's Church, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 33, 43.
47,48,78.80. 81,
82; XI, 3,4,5, 6,
7,8
" Charleston, S. C,
Architect of, iii, 79
Paul's Chapel, New York, N. Y.,
iii, 105
" Church, Boston, Mass.,
iii, 21
" " Charleston,
S. C, iii, 40
" " Edenton, N. C,
iii, 88
Halifax, N. S.,
iii, 16
Peter's Church, Isle of Wight,
Va., iii, 87
" Philadelphia, Pa., iii,
86
Philip's Church, Charleston,
S. C, iii, 2>j' 40, 43, 80, 82.
S3; XI, 9
EXPLAN.VTION : —The Volume is indicited by '' iii . , . u .
Part, and bold-face figures showing the iocauou of the plate in that 1 art.
All illustrations are indicated by bold-face numerals. The full-page plates are Indicated by Roman numerals indicating the
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
St. Philip's Churcli. Charleston, S.
C. The Second, iii. Si
** Stephen's Church. Santee. S. C.
111,67,85,87; XI, 15
" '• Tarish, S. C, iil. 67
" Thomas, S. C. Parish of, ill,
87
Salem, Mass. The Nichols Stable-
yard, 111, JH, 115
" " Veranda. A, iil,
The Waller House,
Hi, 1 1
Salem, N. C. The Moravian
Church, iii, 22
Saltonstall House, Ipswich, Mass..
iii, 12
Sampit Creek, S. C, iil, 49
San Domingo Influence in Charles-
ton, S. C, Houses, iii, 2g
Santee, S. C, " El Dorado," iii, 68
" " English, iii, 67
" " French, Hi, 65
" " "Hampton," ill, 66,
67
" " " Millford," iii, 100;
XII, 17
" " Old Wamboro [St.
James's] Church,
ill, 65, 68,86; XI,
JI, )2
" " St. Stephen's Church,
iil, 67, 85, 87 ; XI,
J5
Saugus, Mass., Boardman House,
iii, J 2
Savage. Portrait by Edward, iii.
Savannah Fires. 1 wo, ill, 90
" and Parts of the Far
South, iii, 89
Savannah, Ga. ; —
Bulloch House. The, iii, 91, 93,
94,97; XII, 9
Christ Church, ill, 93
Exchange Building. The, ill, 90 ;
XII, 8
Gilmer House, ill, 89
Independent Presbyterian
Church, iii, 98
McAlpin House. The, iii, 95,
96
Minus House. The, Hi, 92
Owens House. The. iil, 9t, 92
Scarborough House. The, iii,
9°, 9(
Telfair Art Gallery. The, iii,
91, 92
Tomb. An old Brick, Hi, 90
Yamacraw, the oldest Part of the
City, Hi, 91
Savannah River, Ga. "The Her-
mitage." on tile, iil, 109
Savannahs, ill, 67
Saxe Gotha, S. C. Germans at,
ill, 19
Sayle, Col. Wm., settles Charles-
ton, S. C, ill, 29
Scarborough House, Savannah, Ga.
The, iil, 90, 9)
Schoolhouse, Beaufort, S. C. Old
Baptist, ill, 7)
Sculptor. Giuseppe Jardella, Hi, 24
Sea Island Cottage. A Georgia,
iil, 58, 59
" " Hotel, Beaufort, S. C,
in, 77
Second-story Drawing-rooms, Hi,
35
Secret Chamber at " Veaman's
Hall." Hi. 56
Sedgely Abbey, Wilmington, X. C,
in, 28
Senate Chamber, Boston, Ma.ss.
The Old, HI, J20; XII, 40
Settlement of Charleston, S. C,
Hi, 29, 89 '
" " New Orleans, I>a., i
iil, 89
Seventeenth-c e n t u r y Buildings.
Fist of. ill, 1 1
Shedd House, lirighton, Mass., ill,
J2
Shell Hoods, ill, 9
Shepardstown, Va. Germans at.
Shepherd House, Ijinwood, Ga. , ill,
60
" Shirley," Va., ill, 36
" The Porch at, ill, 62
SUk Culture in So. Carolina, in,
54
Slmonton Ciatewav, C harleston,
S. C, iii, 30; X, 29, 30
Sketches. Jefferson's, ill, 25
Slave Ironworker. A blind, iii,
34
" Labor in Georgia, iil, 93
Quarters, 111, 31, 34, 37, 45
" who saved St. Michael's.
The," ill, 8r
" Return of CJov. Manning's
kidnapped, iii, 100
Sleepy Hollow Church, Tarrytown,
N. v., in, 21; IX, 26
Smibert, John, Architect of Fan-
eull Hall, iil, 103, 105
Smith. Landgrave Thomas, ill, 33
73
" Robert, Architect of Car-
penters' Hall, Philadel-
jihia. Pa., 111, 105
Smithfield, Va. St. Luke's Church,
iii, 85
Smythe. Capt. J. Edger, Hi, 30
" Augustine, House, Char-
leston, S. C, X, 14
Snow Hill Monastery, (.)uincy. Pa.,
Hi, 22
Society of Colonial Dames of Pa.,
ill, 22
Soldier and Washington's Portrait.
The Federal, ill, 84
Soldiers' Ravages in Charleston,
S. C. Federal, Hi, 48
Soldiers steal a Bible. British, Hi,
68
Somerville, Mass. Old Powder-
magazine, ill, 106
South Carolina. German Settle-
mejits in, iil, 19
" The Far, Hi, 89
" Santee River, S. C, "El
Dorado," XI, J 8, J 9
" " River, S, C," Hamp-
ton," XI, J9
" " Sportsman's Club, iH.
69, 70
" " S. C. "The Wedge,"
111,73
Spanish Influence affects Louisi-
ana Architecture, Hi, 99
" Powder-magazine, Char-
lestcm, S. C, Old, Hi,
40
" Reminiscences In Charles-
ton, S. C, Hi, 35
" Settlements at St. Augus-
tine, Ha., 111, 89
Spanish-tiled Roofs in Charleston.
S. C, iil, 44
Sportsman's Club. South Santee,
S. C, 111, 69
Sproull Homestead, near Carters-
ville, Ga., ill, 1 JO, 1 12
Stables. Architectural Quality of
Colonial, ill, 1 15
Spurs on Angle-posts, ill, 5
Staljle at " Mount Vernon," iii, 115
" " " Woodlands," Philadel-
])hla, Pa., iil, 115 ; XII,
30
Stable-yard, Salem, Mass. The
Nichols, iii, J J 4, 115
.Stage-roads, ill, 67
Staircases, Charleston, S. C, 1
34
" Circular, ill, 49
" Savannali, Ga., ill, 91
XII, 9
Staircases : —
Brown-Gammell House, Provi-
dence, R. I., XII, 38
Bulloch House, Savannah, Ga.,
XII, 9
BulIPrlngle [Miles Brewton]
House, Charleston, S. C , X,
25
Elliott House, Charleston, S. C,
Hi, 34
Fuller Hou.se, Beaufort, S. C,
XI, 23
Stairlandlng in Beardsley House,
Beaufort, S. C, ill, 77
Stairs. Exterior, Hi, 61
Stanniford House, Va., HI. 60
Starkweather House, Pawtucket,
R. I. Entrance to, IX, J
State-house, Boston. See " Massa-
chusetts "
" Boston, Old .Senate
Chamber, XII, 40
" Columbia, S. C, de-
signed by Hoban,
ill, 108
" Indiana, in, 124
" North Carolina, Hi,
107
" Portico of Massachu-
setts, iil, 17
" Stenton," the Home of James
Logan, iii, 22; IX, J2
Stone Houses, Hi, 114
Stories. Projecting upper. Hi, 1 1
Strasburg, Va. Germans at, ill, 19
Strawberry Church, on the Cooper
River, S. C, Hi, 87; XI, J5
Street Names in Charleston, S. C,
ill, 44
Strickland, Wm., Architect, IH, 107
Stuart and Revett's Book, iii, 108
Style. The Georgian, Hi, 106
.Sugar-planter's llouse. Typical,
Hi, 1 1 1
Sully. A Portrait by, ill, 38
Sumner, Jas., and Jos. Brown design
First Baptist Church, Provi-
dence, R. I., Hi, 115
.Sunday Habits in Charleston, S. C,
iii, 46
Swamps. The Santee, ill, 66
Swedes Church, Upper Merlon, Pa.,
ill, 21
" " Wilmington, Del.
Old, iii, 21 ; IX.
4,5
Swell-fronts in Halifax, Hi, 17
-T —
Tabby-built Cabins. .St. Cather-
ine's Island, Ga.. Hi,
75
" The Owens House, Hi,
91
" Tapia " corrupted to " Tabby," Hi,
91
Tarleton. Gen., ill, 67
Tarleton's Headquarters, ill, 69
Tarrytown, N. \'. .Sleepy Hollow-
Church, ill, 21 ; IX, 26
Tavern. See " Inn."
Taverns ; —
" Blue Bell " Derby, Pa , ill, 24
" Oak Tree," Montgomery Co.,
Pa., ill. 24
" Red Lion," Phlla. Co., Pa., Hi,
23
" Wm. Penn." Del. Co., Pa., ill,
22
Taverns. Pennsylvania, ill, 24
Tayloe Place, " Mount Airy," on
the Rap])ahannoirk, Va., iii, 114;
XII, 22, 23
Teach, the Pirate, and Gov. Eden,
ill, 88
Telfair Art Gallery, Savannah, Ga.
The, ill, 91, 92
Temple of Theseus the Model for
" Arlington," Hi, 1 10
Temple of the Winds Order. The,
Hi, 109
Ten Broeck Hou.se, Kingston,
j N. Y., ill, 1 17
Thatched Roofs, 111, 92
'I'hird-story Drawing-rooms, iil, 98
Thomasvllle, Ga.
near, XII, 3
Thornton, Dr. Wm.,
(jreenwood,"
Architect, ill,
107, 113
" " " designs,
" M o n t -
pelier," iil,
"5
" " " po.sslbly the
Archl t ec t
of " Ken-
more," iii,
1'3
limber Panic in England, Hi, 10
Tomb, Beaufort, S. C. Old Brick,
iii, 76
" Drayton, " Magnolia on the
A.shley," S. C, XI, 20
" Arthur Middleton's, Ashley
River, S. C, XI, 20
" Savannah, Ga. Old Brick,
Hi, 90
Tombs. Prince George's Church-
yard, Georgetown, S. C,
IH, 35
Tombstone. D'llarrlette, iil, 46
" Thos. Jefferson's, iil,
25
Tombstones, 111, 35, JJ7
" in .St. PhiHp's Church-
yard, Charleston,
S. C, Hi, 35
Toronto. A simple English House
in, iii, 15
Totnes, So. Devon, Eng. House,
Hi, 8
Town Clock, Halifax, N. S., Hi, J 7
" Hall, Newport, R, I., Hi, 103
Towne, Ithiel, Architect of North
Carolina State-house, ill, 107, 124
Tradd House, Charleston. The
Robert, 111, 33
" Street, Charleston, S. C,
iii, ^1,
Transcript's List of Seventeenth-
century Buildings, iil, 1 1
Trapplst Church, CoUegeville, Pa.,
Old, Hi, 21
Trinity Church, Newark, N. J., in,
16; IX, 23
" " Newport. R. I., iii,
21; IX, 19,20,
2J,22
" Churchyard, New York,
N. v., 111, 1 17
" "Old .Swedes," Church,
Wilmington, Del., Hi,
21; IX, 4, 5
Trip to South Carolina. An
Autumn, Hi, 43
Trombone Chorals at Salem, N. C,
111, 22
" playing at Bethlehem,
Hi, 20
Tryon's Palace, New Berne, N. C.
Gov., ill, 23, 28
"Tulip Hill," Md., Hi, 60
Turnbull House, near Charleston,
S. C. The Robert J., iii, 49, 53
Tuskegee, Ala. Homestead, A,
X11.3
Twelves. Robert, Architect of South
Church, Boston, ill. 105
Tybee Island, .S. C, Hi, 74
Type Plan of Charleston Houses,
'iii, 31
Typical Charleston, S. C, Houses,
iH, 30, 45; X, 5,27
" Veranda, Charleston, S. C,
X,27
-U-
Unlon .Soldiers in Charleston.
Damages by, ill, 48
Expi.ANATroN : — The Volume k indicated by " iii " All
Part, and bold face figures sli.,«ing ilic 1 c.ilioii'of ilie |ilale i:
llustrations are indicated by bold face numerals. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the
tliat J'art.
GENERAL INDEX OF TEXT AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
x"
"University Hall," Cambridge, by
Bulfinch, iii, 1 12
" of North Carolina,
Chapel Hill,
N. C., iii, 1 12
" " Virginia, C h a r-
lottesN'ille, Va.,
iii, 25; IX, 6, 7
Upper Merion, Pa. Christ (Swedes)
Church, iii, 21
" Stories Corbelled-out, iii, 3
Ursuline Convent, New Orleans,
La., XH, 6
■V-
and Peter
New ^'ork.
Brooklvn,
Vanbrugh. Sir John
Harrison, iii, 103
Vandenheuvel House,
N. Y. The, iii, 17
Vanderveer House,
N. v., iii, 1 16
Vassall-Longfellow House Veran-
das. The, iii, 62
Vendue Range, Charleston, S. C,
The, iii, 40
Veranda. The Charleston, iii, 30,
57,61,62
Details, X, 28
" Entrance. A, iii, 36
" Evolution of the South-
ern, iii. 61
" Typical Charleston, X,
27
" Window at Bull-Prin-
gle House, iii, 38
Closed -in, Beaufort,
S. C, iii, 64
Necessity of, iii, 35
Madeira bought in
Charleston, iii, 32
Villepontoux, F., Architect of St.
Stephen's, Santee, iii, 67
Virginia. German Settlements in,
iii, 19
" The University of, iii, 25 ;
IX, 6, 7
-W-
Waccamaw River, S. C. iii. 52
Verandas
Victoria's
Waggoner [Loundes] House,
Charleston, S. C. iii, 49; X, 33
Waiters at Funerals, iii, 42
Waldoboro, Me. Lutheran Settle-
ment at, iii, 19
Waller House, Salem, Mass., iii, 11
Walls. Jefferson's Single-brick,
iii, 26
Walton, George, Signer of the
Declaration of Inde-
pendence, iii, 1 1 2
" Memorial Association,
iii. II I
Wamboro [St. James's] Church,
Santee, S.C. Old, iii, 65, 6S, 86;
XI, )I, J2
Waterman Parlor-mantel, Du.\-
bury, Mass., iii, loS; XH, 40
" Wantout," the Savannah of Dan-
iel Ravenel, iii, 67
Washington, Designer of Pohick
Church. Gen., iii,
86
" Ga.. iii, 97
" at ■• Hampton," Gen.,
iii, 70
■ " ''Lausanne,''
I'eale's Portrait of,
iii, 83
" D. C, Door to Octa-
gon House. IX, Z1
" D. C, Park Improve-
ment scheme, iii, 116
D. C. The White
House, iii, 95, 109,
)I6; XII, 46
Watson House, Newport, R. I.,
Doorway to, IX, 29
" Waverly," near Columbus, Miss.,
iii, 60
Weather-boards, iii, 10
Webster. Daniel, iii, 95
" Wedge, The," So. Santee, S. C,
iii, 73
^\edg^vood China at "Hampton,"
iii, 70
Welsh Influence on Pennsylvania
Architecture, iii, 106
Werner, Diedrick, a German Iron-
worker, iii, 30, 79
Wesley's Cottage, Rolver^den
Layne, Kent, Eng., iii, 2
" Westover," on the James River,
Va., XII, 24
" The Brickwork at, iii,
84
West Springfield, Mass. T h e First
Church,
iii, 103
" " " The Jo-
siah Day
Ho u s e,
XII, 2
West Wycombe, Bucks, Eng.
House, iii, 4
Whipple House, Ipswich, Ma,ss.,
iii, 1 1
" White House," W'ashington, D.
C, iii, 95, 109, 116; XII, 46
" White Ladies," iii, 99
" Plains," Santee, S. C, iii,
67
" Whitehall," Md., iii, 60
WiUiam and Mary College. Colo-
nial Building at, iii, 1 12
" Penn Tavern, Del. Co.,
Pa., iii, 22
Williamsburg, Va.
iii, 81
Wilmington, Del.
Christ Church,
Trinity, "Old
Swede s,"
Church, iii,
21; IX, 4, 5
N. C, iii, 28
" '■ Gov. Tryon's
Palace, iii, 28
Winchester, Va. Germans at, iii,
19
" " The Hite House,
iii, H3, 1 14
Window, Palladian, " Woodlands,"
Philadelphia, Pa., XII,
29
" in Bull-Pringle [Miles
Brew to n] House,
Charleston, S. C, iii,
38; X, 26
Wmdows. The Function of, iii, 6
Windsor, Eng. The Camellia Ja-
ponica at, iii, 72
" Windy Hill," near Natchez, Miss.,
XII, J9
Wing-pavilioned House. The, iii,
57
Wine-closets. Attic, lii, 32, 45
Winyavv. Prince George's, iii, 52
Witt'e House, Charleston, S. C, iii,
4J,97; X, 16
" Woodlands," Philadelphia, Pa.,
iii, 114; XII, 1,28,29,30
" Woodlawn," the Prototype of
" Kenmore," iii, 112
Woodruff. Judah, Builder, iii, 104
Woodruff's, Judah, Buildings. List
of, iii, 105
Woodstock, Va. Germans at, iii,
19
" Woodville " destroyed by !• ire, iii,
70
Wren. Sir Christopher, ni, 79
Wren's Travels in Holland, iii, 18
Wrought Ironwork. Charleston,
iii, 34; X, 7 .. ^
" Wyck," Germantown, Pa., iii, 106
-Y-
Yamacravv, Ga. Oglethorp lands at,
iii, 89
" the oldest Part of Sa-
vannah, iii, 91
Yeamans. Gov. Sir John, iii, 28
" Sir Thomas, iii, 7 1
" Hall, Goose Creek,
S. C, iii, 55, 73,
Si
" " Ghost. 1 he, iii,
56
York, formerly Agamenticus, Me ,
iii, 1 15
" Me., Massacre by French
and Indians, iii, 1 16
" " The Mclntire Garri
son, iii, \ J 5
" '• " old Jail, iii, J J 5,
116
— Z —
Zinzendorf. Count and Countess,
iii, 18
Explanation : — The V..:ume i.,^ intlicaled by " iii." All illustrations are indicated by bold-face numer.tls. The full-page plates are indicated by Roman numerals indicating the
Part, and bold-face figures showing the location of tlie plate in tltai Part.
PREFACE.
T^HE formidable attempt to bring- about the destruction of the "Bulfinch Front" of
the Massachusetts State House, one of the most admirable as well as one of the
latest examples of " Colonial " architecture, and the constant appearance in the daily
papers of accounts of the destruction by fire of this or that ancient building endowed
with historic or architectural interest have, as much as anything, perhaps, brought
about the undertaking of this publication.
The desirability of making, before it should be too late, some adequate record
of the architectural remains of Colonial work seemed too obvious and insistent to be
longer disregarded. It remained only to determine the form and character of publica-
tion likely to prove of most value. Recalling at this point the fact that the many
volumes of the American Architect contained a large number of measured drawings
and fugitive papers dealing with the selected period, it appeared evident that they
might easily be made to serve as a nucleus about which to gather, as they might come
to hand, other illustrations and papers of various kinds. Fortunately there was found
amongst this matter already published, in a series of admirable drawings by Mr.
Frank E. Wallis, and in another by Mr. Claude Fayette Bragdon, just the character
of handling that was needed to exhibit the typical treatment which intending contribu-
tors could be required to follow.
The authors of the papers that first appeared in the American Architect, and are
now republished, have kindly consented to revise them, and some of the drawings have
been redrawn in harmony with the adopted type, credit being attributed to the original
draughtsmen in each case. In this way, an air of continuity and homogeneity has
been attained which will be more easily preserved in the fresh and, as a rule, unpub-
lished matter which is flowing in from all sides. For, as was hoped, the publication
has attracted attention in every part of the country, and architects and draughts-
men in neighborhoods where interesting examples of Colonial work still exist are
promising their aid in perfecting this preservative record.
Further contributions of sketches, measured drawings, photographs and nega-
tives, as well as miscellaneous papers dealing with some phase or fashion of the style,
or descriptive merely of some neighborhood or building, will be cordially welcomed.
The present volume is issued without an index, but as the publication grows in
importance proper indices will be issued.
The So-cailed Colonial Architecture
of the United States/
"Men can with diliiculty uriginate, even in a new hemisphtru." — Edward Kcci.kston.
IT is propoled in this paper to gather together Ibme of the
records bearing upon tlie architecture of the feventeenlh
and eighteenth centuries, and to arrange thefe fo as to
furnilh a (hort, fyfteniatic and comprehenfive iurvey of
what building activity was exerciled within the English Prov-
inces of America during that time.
The art of this period, — including alio tlie fiiil twenty ycais
of the nineteenth century, — is generally called " Colonial."
Some object to the term, faying tliat there is too much variety
of flyle to come under one head, and that, moreover, the befl
work was executed long after the original Colonies had be-
come Provinces, and even later. But the term has been in
ufe fo long, and is fo fuggefl.ve and comprehenlive, that it
would be difficult to find one
more acceptable. Object as we
may to the words " Cotliic " and
"Colonial," we cannot fpare
them, for no other words call
up in the mind fo complete a
pitlure. not only of architecture
and of the other arts, but of all
the peculiar conditions — focial,
religious and politicul — which
produced the Mediaval eccleli-
aftical architectuie of Europe
and the eighteenth-century do-
meftic architecture of America.
In this domeific arcliittclure,
there was evolution and growth,
jufl as truly as in any other llyle. If the petfeclion of
Greek art remained unaccountable until the archaological
difcoveries on the banks of the Nile an<l the Euphrates, still
lefs would one underifand Colonial art without a knowledge
of the preceding ffyles. America owes Europe much, and
we (hall fee that the emigrants left the mother country with
neither empty hands nor empty heads.
THE NKW KN(;LA.\Ii I'KOVINCb.S: IHIMEMIC .\ KClIlTIXTf UK.
The reafon for beginning with the New England Colonies
is not becaufe they are the oldell and furnilh a good geo-
graphical flarting-point, but becaufe in them is more and
better material, more thoroughly invelli,^aied and recorded.
Moreover, the architecluro in them, being homogeneous, is
FiK.
more ealily clariified. By making a clallitication, the fubfe-
quent inquiry farther fouth will be made eafier, for thus a
ftandard or criterion will have been eflablilhed to which
reference can be made.
After the firll quarter of the eighteenth century there came
to the Colonill a period of comparative peace and profperity.
The Indian was no longer a flanding menace, " the ftubborn
phalanx of foreft trees had been gradually beaten back, the
difencumbered fields yielded a furplus, and leifure and com-
fort compenfated for hard beginnings." It is only natural to
find architecture influenced by this. Almofl all good Co-
lonial work is later than 1730.
A brief review of the earlier period poffeffes, however, both
interelt and value. The fubject
can bell be difcuffed under three
topics; Log-houfes, Military
Homes and Settlers' Cottages.
The log-houfe, the firfl and
mod natural dwelling- in a new
and thickly-wooded country,
was not to the taile of the Colo-
nill. Life in it was to him a
chryfalid ftate, from which to
emerge, the fooner the better.
Roughly fquared limbers feemed
incompatible with his higher
ideals.
Yet the firll Doric artifan,
when called upon by his fellows
to rear a worthy abode for the ancient xoanon, did not find
it fo. Looking about for fuggellions, he saw nothing but
the low-roofed timber houfes of Homer's heroes. But in them
his artillic fenfe perceived great poflibilities. In the rough
timber ends he found fplendid triglyphs ; in the open fpaces,
fculptured metopes; in the ungainl- trunnels, depending
guttre; and in the overhanging rafters, richly raifed mutules.
But the Colonill, difdaining the material at hand, call long-
ino- glances back to Europe, and, from his earliefl efforts to
Tlie "Old Slone House," Guilford, Conn. Built, 1639-
1 Post-graduate thesis of Mr. Olof Z. Cervin, Architectural Department,
School of Mines, Columliia College, 1894, revised and amplified.
■■^Mr. C. W. Mrnst has recently <liscovered satisfactory evidence that
the very first work of the settlers was to set up saw-nulls, that they might
get out the lumbar in the siz-es and shapes which llioy were wont to
handle at home. — En.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Fig. 2. The Cradock House,* Medford, Mass
Hapgood in 1881,
his laft. there was ever a confcious driving to reproduce in
this new land his former home, grown doubl}' dear through
long reparation. Thus Lowell fays of Cambridge, that it
looked like an Englilh village
badly tranlplanted.
Many fettlers had for a long
time no choice but to live in
log-houfes. This fact they con-
cealed as beil they could by
covering them with clapboards
or fliingles, put on with hand-
wrought nails. The floor, often
at firft of If aniped clay, was ibon
fuperfeded by a pavement of
rough puncheons. The window-
lights were of mica, of oiled pa-
per, or of horn. No glafs found
its way to the Colonies before
the year 1700, or thereabouts.
The Military Homes '■ ■ were more important ftruclures. As
in the early fettlements the prime requifite was protedfion
againft the elements, wild beafls and favage men, it was
1 The Old Stone House at Guilforii, Conn. — "This house was
erected by the Rev. Henry Whitfield, both for the accommodation of
his family and as a fortification fur the protection of the inhabitants
against the Indians. It is the oldest stone dwelling-house now standing
in New England. This house was kept in its original form until 1868,
when it underwent such renovation as to change to some extent its in-
terior arrangement, although the north wall and large stone chimney are
substantially the same as they have been for over two centuries. It is
said that the first Cuilford marriage was celebrated in it, the wedding-
table being garnished with pork and pease. According to tradition, the
stone of which this house was built was brought by the Indians on hand-
barrows across a swamp from Criswold rock, a ledge about eighty rods
east of the house. It consisted of two stories and an attic. The
walls were 3 feet thick. At the southeast corner of the second floor there
was a singular embrasure commanding the approach from the south and
west, and evidently made for defensive purposes. In the attic were
two recesses, evidently intended as places of concealment." — .Smith's
"History of Guilford."
The following description, taken from Vol. 2 of Palfrey's "History of
New England" gives other details: —
" The walls are of stone from a ledge eighty rods distant to the east.
It was probably brought on hand-barrows across a swamp over a rude
causeway, which is still to be traced. A small addition has in modern
times been made to the back of the house, but there is no (juestion but
the main building remains in its original state, even to the oak of the
beams, floors, doors and window-sashes. In the recesses of the windows
are broad seats. Within the memory of some of the residents of the
town the panes of glass were of diamond shajie. The height of the first
story is 7% feet; the height of the second is (>% feet. At the southerly
corner in the second story there was originally an embrasure about a foot
wide with a stone flooring, which remains. The exterior walls are now
closed up, but not the walls within. The walls of the front and back of
the house terminate at the floors of the attic, and the rafters lie upon
them. The angle of the roof is sixty degrees, making the base and sides
equal. At the end of the wing, by the chinmey, is a recess which must
have been intended as a place of concealment The interior wall has
the appearance of touching the chinmey like the wall at the northwest
end, but the removal of a board discovers two closets, which project
beyond the lower jKirt of the building."
Writing about the house Mrs. Cone, the present owner, says : ft was
built as a jilace of refuge from the Indians, also as a place of public
worship. The jiartitions in the mam building were movable and folded
up like a fan and were fastened to the rafters by what they called kevs.
1634. Sketched by M. H.
Kear View .,£ '.he Old Slone House, Guilford, Conn.
iron sta|)ks with a crossbar that turned in a socket. When fastened up
the whole house was one room. There was no secoiid floor. Tiie cast
wing was a still smaller building with only two rooms and some small
closets. 'I'here were chiinueys on the south and east sides like the one
now standing on the north. The one on the south was taken down before
quite common that one or more of the houfes fhould be built
efpecially large and flrong, to ferve as a refuge and a rallying
point, from which the more effectually to repel Indian on-
flaughts. Many Hories and
bloody legends flill cling with
the old mofs and lichen to thefe
filent witneffes of a danger-
fraught period.
Important among thofe ftill
ftanding are: the old brick
houfe of Governor Cradock,
built about 1634, at Medford,
Mafs. ; the ff uccoed timber
houfe of Governor Bull, in New-
port, R. I., built in 1639; a"d
the clapboarded Minot home-
fl;ead, in Dorchefter, Mafs., built
in 1640. The fo-called "Old
Stone Houfe " ^ (Fig. i), finiflied
in 1640 as a parfonage, at Guilford, Conn., has fince been
rebuilt upon the original lines. The Red Horfe Inn, at
Sudbury, Mafs., built in 1680, and made famous through
Jasper Griffing bought the house in 1776, why, I do not know, but the
wall was weakened by the process, and two iron bars were put in to
strengthen it, and are still to be seen on the outside, unless covered with
vines. When the repairs were made m 1868 all the woodwork of the
rear building was saved. It was oak and probably cut in 1639. Some
of it was used for the banister and newel of the present stairs, which are
very poor specimens of work, as the oak was so hard that modern tools
could not take hold of it. I have some chairs made of it."
A year or two ago the Daughters of the American Kevolutiou placed
a tablet inscribed with the appropriate historical note in the face of the
building.
2 The Spencer-Pierce House [Garrison House], Newiiurvport,
Mass. — " There is considerable doubt and uncertainty in regard to the
date when this ancient stone house was built. Some authorities claim
that it was erected by John Spencer between the years 1635 ='"d '637,
and others assert that it was built for his nephew, John Spencer, Jr., be-
tween 1640 and 1650; and still others are of the opinion that its first
owner and occupant was Daniel Pieice, who bought the farm in 1651.
Careful examination of the records at Salem, made with special refer-
ence to the ])reparation of this sketch, does not furnish sufficient evidence
to determine the question beyond a reasonable doubt; but it has led to
the discovery of some important facts, now for the first time published,
that may be of assistance in arriving at the correct conclusion. It
would be impossible to give in detail all the deeds, wills, and other
legal instruments that have been consulted, without extending this sketch
beyond its proper limits; and therefore only a brief outline of these
papers will be inserted here, with such quotations and comments as will
enable the reader to follow the changes that have taken place in the
ownership of this property from 1635 to the present time.
" When the age of this old house, with its picturesque exterior, the
solid masonry of its walls, and the men who have owned and occupied
it, is considered and allowed to quicken the thought and imagination, it
tells an interesting story of old Colonial days. There are few residences
in New England that are more attractive or fascinating. Its style of
architecture is remarkable, considering the early date at which it was
built. Its walls are composed of several varieties of stone; and some of
them must have been brought from a long distance, perhaps by means
of boats or rafts down the Merrimack River. The bricks used in the con-
struction of the front porch, as well as the square tile which form the
floor, were jjroblably brought from England. Brickyards were estab-
lished at Salem and Medford jirevious to 16S0; but the finished product
of those yards was of an inferior (|uality, and the size of the bricks was
fixed by order of the General Court, as follows: 'Every brick shall
measure 9 inches long, 2)4 inches thick, and 4>j inches wide.' Imported
English brick were much smaller and more smoothlv moulded.
" ']'he house was built in the form of a cross. On the northern projec-
tion, where the kitchen is located, a tall brick chimney rises from a stone
foundation, outside the rear wall.
"'The great porch of this old house,' WTites Mrs. Harriet Prescott
Spol'ford, in an article published in Harper's Mas^aziiie for Julv, 1S75, ' '^
said to be the most beautiful architectural specimen in this part of the
country, although it doubtless owes jiart of its beauty to the mellow and
varied coloring which two hundred years have given it. Yet the bevelled
bricks of its arches and casements and the exquisite nicety of its orn.a-
mentation lead the careful scrntinizer to side with those who dismiss the
idea of its having been a garrison house, and to conjecture that that idea
gained currency from the fact that it was once used to store powder in,
— a fact that was fixed in the popular memory by an explosion there
which blew out the side of the house, and landed an old slave of the
occupant on her bed in the boughs of an adjacent apple-tree.'" — From
" Oiild Ncwbiirv" Bv John J. Currier. Boston : Damrell & Upham.
1896.
*'riiis sketch, made in i8Si, shows the hmise without the dormers here spoken of,
which leaves it open to doubt whether these features may not be recent additions. —
Ed.
DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE: THE NEW ENGLAND PROVINCES.
Longfellow's "Tales of a IVaysiWe Irm" though not known
to have ferved as a fort, refembles the preceding fo much as
to readily group with them. The poet's words, defcriptive of
this inn, will be helpful in pi6luring this clafs of houfes : —
"As ancient is this hostelry
As any in the land may be,
Huilt in the old Colonial day,
AVhen men lived in a grander way,
AVith ampler hospitality;
A kind of old Hobgoblin Hall,
Now somewhat fallen to decav.
With weather stains upon the wall.
And stairways worn, and craggy doors.
And creaking and uneven floors,
And chimneys huge and tiled and tall."
Architecturally, thefe ftructures are very finiple. Leaving
out tlie Old Stone Houfe, which alone is irregular and pi6b
urefque, the main elements are : a rectangular plan, two
ftories and an attic, a gambrel
gable at each end, a symmetrical
difpolition of openings and dor-
mers, and an overhang of the
fecond, or of the attic ftory, for
defence.
The Cradock Houfe ^ (Fig. 2),
typical in its way, deferves fpecial
mention. It is the oldeil houfe Randing to-day in New
England, and as that delightful Chronicler, Drake, puts it,
"proudly bears its credentials on its weather-beaten face."
Though its Englidi owner never faw it, his " fervant " was
confcientious in building it well. The delign is thought to
have been fuggelted by Cradock's London houfe. The
timber was hewn wiihin a few feet of the lite, the bricks
were burned on the fpot. Iron guards were built into the
doorways, and four dangerous-looking loopholes fliowed that
it was a military houfe firil and a trading-pofl and a home
after. Two folid chimneys fland guard, one at each end.
Two dormers relieve the long roof e.\panfe of the front. The
original windows were fniall. 'I'here is no ornament except
a plain band at the fecond-ftory level. Jn the main lines of
its compofition it is Ibikingly like the Hancock houfe,
of Bofton, of which ?i. pseiido replica was ereded at the Colum-
Flg. 3. The Old Manse, Concord
.Mass.
1 The Cradock Hoisk,* Mkdi (jKn. Mass. — " In the Historical Regis-
ter for October, 1.S98. published by tlie Medford Historical Society, are
articles by William Cushing Wait and Walter H. dishing, which go to
disprove the argument that the present building is the original home-
stead. Both place the original Cradock House on the spot wliere the
Garrison House stands, back of the Medford Savings-bank. The present
'Garrison House' has always been known bv that name.
"The principal evidence is comprised in two early ma]>s. The first
was found among the Sloane manuscripts in the Ilriti'sh Museum. It is
believed to have been published about 1633, ='"<• ''^s marginal notes in
Governor Winthrop's hand.
"I Tlie most important part of the map to us in Medford,' says Mr.
Wait, 'is the house sketched near the ford, and the word ' Meadford,'
with Governor Winthro|i's reference to it : Meadford: Mr. Cradock
ferme (farm) house.' Xo house is iiulnaled near the location of the
building we have so long boasted as the Cradock House, built in 1634.
It is true this map is earlier than 1634, but if (Jovernor Cradock's farm-
house was near the ford in 1633 it is probable no change was made the
next year.'
"The other map is one made by flovernor Winthrop in 1637, of his
farm at Ten Hills, now a part of Sonicrville. This shows the same
group of buildings near the ford as the other map.
" In an article on 'Governor Cradock's Plantation,' Walter II. Cush-
ing says : —
"'From an affidavit in the Middlesex Countv Court, in the case of
Glcison -■!. Davison et al., it would appear tSat Davison had also pre-
ceded Mayhewes, for Joseph Hill testifies 'that about 1633 Mr. Nic
Davison lived at Meadford House and that Mr. Mayhcw did not then
dwell at Meadford House.' This affidavit is also interesting as showing
that in 1633 there was a certain building of sufficient jirominence to be
designated as 'Meadford House.'
"The location of that house, or of the Cradock House, if they are
identical, is not absolutely known. Tradition has, during the last two or
three generations, liointed to the old brick building on Riverside Avenue.
•Speaking: of the Cradock HouFe, Prof. C E. Norton writes : " \\ Is more than a mere
antiquarian or archhectnral curiosity. It illustralts more vividly lli.iii any other Iiouse
in the neighborhood of Boston the condition and modes of life of the first generation of
Colonists."
bian Exhibition, at Chicago. It would be interefbing to
know the arrangement of the rooms, but no plans are acceffi-
ble. Even if the prefent partitioning-off were known, it
would be of little value, owing to probable interior remodel-
ling. Undoubtedly, the planning was fimple — a multitude
Fig. 4. Avery House, Pequonnock, Conn.
of clofets, odd corners, and eafy ftaircafes are modern con-
veniences, for even the later Colonial houfes, though often
elaborate and coflly, were seldom comfortable, to our way of
thinking.
Quite early another — a cottage — type was evolved, with
a long fweeping roof towards the rear, canting off a corner
of the ceiling of each flory from the attic to the kitchen.
This type perlilled until quite recently and recurs in hun-
dreds of cottages (Figs. 5, 6 and 7) throughout New Eng-
land. Such were the
childhood homes of
the P r e fi d e n t s
Adams (Fig. 5). It
was jull f u c h an
humble dwelling, in
Eaflhampton, Long
Island, whofe fond
,S^
Fig. 5. John Quincy Adams's House.
memories re-echoed in the heart of John Howard Payne, and
produced the fong of " Home, fweet Home."
The doorway is the only " feature." There is ufually on
each fide of the door a Claffic pilafler, with a inould,ed capi-
But tradition is notoriously a bad guide, and, unsupported by evidence,
is as often wrong as right. Facing page 120 of this number of the Regis-
ter is a reproduction of a map of Governor Winthrop's, supposed by
critics to havelieen made about 1634. The jjlace marked ' Mr. Cradock's
farme house,' does not corrusi)ond, even making due allowance for in-
accuracies, to the neighborhood of the Kiversicle Avenue house, but is
considerably farther up the river, as can be seen by referring to the road
from Salem to the ford at the Mystic. Moreover, it is at the head of
navigation of the river. Far more definite, however, than this map is
that of Winthrop's farm at Ten Hills. Medford is shown as a group of
buildings situated near the northern end of the bridge. \o other build-
ings are given, and the half-dozen on the map apparently belong to one
estate. Now, in 163", Medford and Governor Cradock's farm were iden-
tical. Furthermore, as Winthrop and Cradock were close friends, such
a jirominent building as the latter's house would not be (unitted, if anv
buildings were given. Here, then, it seems to me, is almost conclusive
evidence of the location of the house near the square. So much from
the maps.
"' In his will Cradock does not specify the number or location of the
buildings bequeathed ; neither do the heirs when they convey to Edward
Collins. But when the latter, in i66t, sells 1,600 .acres of the farm to
Richard Russell, the limit on the east is set by the old Nowell and Wil-
son (then Blanchard) farms, while the western boundary is a brook west
of the Mansion House. This brook ran out of a swamp near the north-
ern line between Charlestown and the farm, and, according to the dimen-
sions and known boundaries t>f the conveyance, must have been Meeting
House Brook. When Russell, in 1669, sells Jonathan Wade three-
quarters of this tract he reserves the fourth, lying next to the Blanchard
farm {/. e., Wellington) and farthest from the dwelling-house. When
Jonathan Wade died, in 16.S9, the inventory of his property included a
brick house near the bridge; and that house is still standing, north of
the savings-bank. Now, it does not at all follow that these three build-
ings are identical, but it is certain that the principal house, the dwelling
or mansion house of this estate, from the time of Collins to Wade, was
in the neighborhood of Medford S<|uare.'
' 'To sum up: I. No evidence has been brought to light for the house
on Riverside Avenue. 2. What evidence tliere is jjtiints to a liouse near
the square. 3. The Ten Hills farm map suggests strongly the iite of the
present Garrison House, if not the liouse itself.' "
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
tal, fupporting a plain cornice with a pediment. Even this lowing are noteworthy : tlie Pepperell manfion, at Kittery,
fimple feature is often omitted. Maine, begun about 1720, and confifcated after the Revolu-
To this period belong the hiltoric Witch Houfe, in Salem,
.M^^^ t^5
'^^ T^^'
Fig 6. Old House at Pigeon Cove, Mass. Built in 1643.
and the home of Paul Revere, in Bofton, neither of which
groups readily with any of the above.
The peace and commercial profperity, which fet in about
1730, flimulated building aftivity. The flirewder merchants,
having amaffed confiderable fortunes by traffic in (laves,
lumber, fifh, tea and Erglifli (luffs, fet themfelves to the
pleafing tafk of fpending their gains. \A'hat better could they
do than to ereft commodious
houfes? Some profeffional men
and fome landed proprietors,
too, had become wealthy, and
vied with ihefe merchants in
their building enterprifes. The
ordinary material was wood ; that
is, houfes were conflructed of an
open framework of timber and
covered with clapboards, or fome-
times with fliingles. Brick was
rarely employed, except in the
larger towns.
Many, efpecially the earlier
hcufes, feem lo have been fug-
gefled by Governor Cradock's
military home, or by others fimi-
lar. By degrees the gambrel
Fig. 8. Old House at Farmington, Conn. Built about 1700.
tion with its thirty miles of property ; the Hancock manfion,
at Bofton, begun in 1737 ; the birthplace of General I'utnam,
at Danvers, Mafs., built partly in 1650 and partly in 1744;
and the often-illuftrated "King" Hooper houfe, alfo at
Danvers, which was, in many things, a copy in wood of" the
Hancock houfe. The Hancock houfe, now a memory only,
though one of the oldeft, was one of the beft. It was a ftone
building, fo folidly eredled as to
require blafting when torn down.
Thomas Hancock began it in
1737. Having become im-
menfely wealthy, for thofe days,
'f^'-^ti (hrougii fkilful trading, he felt
that Bofton was getting too
crowded for him. Juft outfide
its limits he found a fine hill over-
looking the bay. Hereheftaked
out his houfo, fifty-fix feet wide.
When completed, he improved
the grounds with walks and gar-
dens. The entrance, in the mid
die of the front, was protedled by
a balcony, opening from the wide
hallway of the fecond ftory. On
the fides were two large windows
Three dormers lighted the attic. A modillion
Fig. P. Old Cottage, Portsmouih, N". 11
roof was eliminated. Firft, the hipped or the manfard roof in each ftory.
came into vogue, from about 1760 to 1790. This was in turn cornice, returning on itfelf at the ends, marked the tranfition
fuperseded by the flat deck, towards the clofe of the century, from the wall to the roof. A baluftrade of neat fpindles fur-
Of courfe, examples of each overlap, the gambrel type being rounded entirely the upper and flatter flope — a connecting
fpecially perfiftent ; but the general tendency will be clearly chain from chimney to chimney, juftified only by the happy
(hown, in an appended chronological table. way in which it crowned the whole. The corners and open-
The gambrel roof is, no doubt, the refult of an effort to ings were trimmed with white ftone quoins. The details
were refined and the ornament fparing, but appropriate.
Altogether, it was a roomy, well-deiigned and dignified lioufe,
mm
Hr-s i-|il- ^—B 'r "PS^ Sff-?p;-
Fig. 7. Itradstreet House, Andover, Mass.
Fig. to. The Vassall-Craigie-Longfellow House, Cambridge, Mass., 1759.
secure additional height in the attic fpace. Though the oldeft, exactly fuited to be the manfion of the firlt gentleman of the
it is the moft graceful and pleafing, avoiding the box-like Commonwealth, and through hini and his illuftrious nephew,
effe6t and hard lines of the other two. Of tiiis type, the fob John Hancock, to extend its ftately hofpitality to the greateft
DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE: THE NEW ENGLAND PROVINCES.
5
men of the clay. It lacked many iniportant features. Thus
there were no fpacious verandas, no two-ftoried pilafters, and
no gable over the front entrance. The fecond, or nianfard
type, is more ClafTic, prefenting on all fides a predominance of
horizontal lines. But the elements of the
defign are virtually the fame. The roof
balustrade is ufually, as it fhould be, placed
around the flat deck on top. Sometimes it
occurs at the bafe of the flope.
The Vaffall manfion (Fig. lo), built in
1759, at Cambridge, Mafs., and fmce 1837
the home of Longfellow, is a fplendid ex-
ample of this clafs. The large Oliver
house, at Dorchefter, Mafs., built in 1740,
the birthplace of Edward Everett, is alfo a
worthy ftruclure, in fpite of its lleep box-
like roof and lack of verandas. The
Quincy manfion, Quincy, Mafs., built in
1770, is quite remarkable with its attic
rifing like a clereftory above the outfide
walls. Many other prominent examples
could be quoted.
The flat-roofed houfes (Fig. 12), forming
the third clafs, are lefs interelling. The
details are ftiff, and there is a tendency to
formalifm. Many of tiiefe are three ftories
in height. In Boflon, they were often four
ftories high and of brick. There is in this
type a certain meagrenefs. The porches
are fmall and bare, the columns few and
flender. Evidently, the original infpiration
had begun to fail, and there was a flriving
for new effects.
The birthplace and home of Lowell,
known as "Elmwood," at Cambridge, is as fine and typical
an example of this clafs as is Longfellow's of the preceding.
"Elmwood" is three flories high, the upper flory, however,
more like a mezzanine ( Fig. 111. It Hands charmingly among
high trees planted by
the poet's father.
Naturally enough,
few names of defign-
ers have been handed
down. It is, there-
fore, a pleafure to re-
cord fome. William
Spratz, a Heffian fol-
dier, was the architedt
of the Deming house,
at Litchfield, Conn.,
built in 1790. It has
a low manfard roof,
with a baluftrade jufl
over the cornice.
The middle portion
(lightly projecting and
finiflied with a pedi-
ment, has, in the
fecond flory, a fine
I'alladian window,
very fimilar to one
found in a brick houfe
at Annapolis, Md.
rS
isnttiL
Fijf. 11. Elmwood, Cambridge, Mass.
early in the Kiphteenth Onttiry.
The mere facl; that Spratz was a foldier throws fome light
upon the flatus of the architectural profeffion. The Pro-
vinces poffeffed, we might fay, no educated archite6ls. Moft
houfes were the refult of collaboration of owner and village
carpenter. The one furniflied the general
plan and ideas, the other worked out the
details. Thus I^r. Ayrault, in 1739, fpeci-
fied in his contracf, ftill exiiling, that the
builders were to provide a hood over the
entrance, and to fupport the fame on carved
brackets (Fig. 13). Such notices, and
fome accidentally preferved books on the
Orders, by Swan, Pain, Langley and
others, indicate that the Colonial mechanic
was more than a mere fkilful tool. He
expended thought in devifing practical
methods for executing in wood Claflic
features and details originally defigned for
floiie conltruclion. Many characleriftics,
fuch as a tendency to increafe the propor-
tional height of the columns (fig. 14), and
details like the one illuftrated in Plgure 15,
may be traced to thefe efforts.
FKATURF.S.
A few words on each of the more im-
portant features will ferve to give a clearer
idea of what good Colonial refidences
really were : —
The entrance, which ought to be one of
the principal external features, was never
neglected by the Colonial builders. A
fliell hood, carried on brackets, jull over
the pilafter-llanked door was a common
and fimple device 1 Fig. 13). The idea was directly borrowed
from England, there adapted from the upper part of a
niche.
More frequently the pilafters fupport a cornice and a
pediment. In the beft
Huilt
examples the details
are carefully wrought,
with carved Corinthian
or Ionic capitals. The
Ionic capitals ufually
have Coinpofite fcrolls,
a variety often occur-
ring in Colonial work.
Sometimes the modil-
lions, too, were carved,
but more often they
were left plain, as in
Figure 20.
Another device was
to leave the doorway
itfelf very fimple, and
flank it with femi-de-
tached columns or pi-
lafters rising through
two ftories, as in Long-
fellow's houfe (Fig.
lot. Often, though
not always, pilafters
were placed on or near
(See Fig. 75,) The details are very correct and elegant, as the houfe corners alfo. This high order involved fo wide a
though defigned with "Vignola" in the hand. The general frieze in the entablature that it was either entirely omitted,
effea is pleafing, except that the cornice lacks a frieze, which 7Ti;7^^7^arT7)T;;u;;^^as ,n,iied down ■„ ,s,,37,7^.elioiiu street chi^S^ui;
gives it the appearance of having funk into the wall. t,iwerremDve!l, wasln 1HS5 remodelled into a theatre. — K.h
Fig. 12.
The Bradlee or " Boston Tea-Party" House,' 1771, and the Hollis Street Church. 1810, Boston,
Mass.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
or it occurred only over the columns or pilaflers. In fonie
rare inftances the frieze is wide enough to permit of an
additional low ftory on a level with it.
4^ Ij I'l-.-'""!'.
Fig. 13. Hood, Ayrault House, Newport, R. I.
A ftep toward greater elaboration was lo add columns in
front of thofe againll the wall, and thus to produce a fmall
portico, ufually of flight projection (Fig. 14 A, B). Old
buildings in New Haven and in other Connecticut towns
fhow an ingenious adaptation of Michael Angelo's device in
ihe Farnefe Palace, at Rome, where the frieze of the entabla-
ture over each window is cut into by the opening (Fig. 17).
Many fmall porches by this means gain fufticient height for
the doorway without crowding the pediment above the
fecond-ftory window-fills — a clever folution of a frequently
recurring problem. A variation' was to omit the free columns
and to let the porch extend as a hood over the entrance
(Figs. 18, 19). Thefe
fchemes, however, were
not fufficiently elaborate
for all owners, and many
entrance-porches were
developed into elaborate
verandas, the columns, in
fome cafes, difpofed with
much ingenuity (Fig. 14
C,E).
The two-rtory veranda,
with coloflal columns,
though not common, oc-
curs in fome inftances.
Count Rumford's houfe,
at Woburn, Mafs., has
c- ,A /A>T)- Tj .0, ,. fuch a porch, with the
Fig. 14. (A) Pierce House, 1780, Salem, Mass. '- '
(li)Hurd House, ,795, Cliarlestown, IVlass. additional dcvicC of the
(C) (governor l,anjidon Hr)use, 1784, l*orts-
moutii. N. H. (I)) Mount Griddeii House, fecond flory Carried on a
iXrjo, Cliarlestown, Mass. (E) 'J'ucker House.
iHr.H, Salem, Mass. (K) Count Rumford's finaller Order, filllilar tO
House, Woburn, Mass.
to the main order (Fig.
14 F). It need hardly be faid that thefe coloffal orders are
a failure, for, if two-fiory pilailers againfl the wall dwarf the
entire flructure, free-ftanding columns, gaining prominence
by proje6tion, have the fame effedt to. a greater degree.
Many Colonial verandas are of generous proportions, cool
Fig. 15. Window Finish, etc. Fig. 16. Doortiead, Portsmouth, N. H.
and inviting. Often, as in Longfellow's home, there are two,
though not always, as in this cafe, balancing one another.^
Much attention was beftowed upon the doorways. It was
ufual to enclofe the doors with a framing of glafs — tranfoms
and fide-lights — of great variety in treatment though funda-
mentally the fame in idea.'^
The main cornice is, in general, well proportioned to the
building: fmaller in the earlier examples, in which it ferves
Fig. 17. Porch, Litchfield, Conn
Fig. 18. Porch of the Taylor House,
Roxbury, Mass, , 1790,
merely as a tranfition to the roof, than in the later ftruCture,
where it is itfelf the crowning member. In fedtion, it is
commonly bafed upon the Corinthian, though the modillions
are feldom carved. Under the brackets, there is, in the beft
examples, a row of dentils, giving life and variety to the
whole. The omilfion of the frieze and the ufe of cololTal
orders have already been mentioned.
Roof-baluflrades are of two varieties. One confifls of
ISee Plate 19, I'arl IV.
Fig. 18a. Taylor House, Roxbury, Mass., 1790. Pulled down in 1S9-.
light turned, or carved, fpindles, with larger ones on the
corners and at intervals of fifteen or twenty of the fmaller
-The side verandas were not parts of the original house, but were
added by Mr. Longfellow. — Ed.
" See Plates 39, 40, 41, Part II and Plate 7, Part III.
DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE: NEW ENGLAND FEATURES.
ones. Someiinies fquare pedeftals take their places. The
other variety confifts of feme pattern of open lattice-work, in
panels between pedeftals. Figure 21 illuftrates both varieties-
The corners gain
ftriking features. It is ftrange that there was fo little of
effort for variety by giving the dormer greater breadth, and
adding mullions, or even by developing it into a prominent
an appearance of
(Irength by the ufe
of pi 1 a fters or of
quoins. In feveral
initances, the imita-
tion courfes of quoins
are continued acrofs
the whole facade, fo
as to fimulate ftone
rullication. Old
" King " Hooper was
not above pretending
to live in a ftone
houfe. This fpirit of
pretention was the
logical refult of the
one which confidered
it unbecoming to live
in a log houfe, and fo
concealed the logs
with clapboards or
witli flringles. But
c 1 a p 1) o a r d s and
(hingles had better excufe, for they were ufeful in keeping
out the cold.
A review of the exterior features would be incomplete
without a reference to the fo-called Palladian windows. A
treatment of large openings, liniilar to that of Figure 75,
from Maryland, occurred quite frequently in the New l.ng-
land and Middle colonies. Ultimately, the idea is derived
from Palladio's ingenious device of two columns and two
pilafters with an arch between the columns of a larger order.
An interefting variety existed in the old 15ofton Library
(Fig. 22).
Other windows are fimply treated — often enclofed with
fome mouldings and a light cap over. An ingenious varia-
tion, from MafTachufetts, is illuftrated in Figure 15.
The treatment of dormers, too, is fimple. Ufually they
are narrow and high, crowned with plain fteep pediments,
Fig. 19. A Doorway in Providence, R. I.
Fig. 20. I'orcliot tlie Hurd House, Charlestown, Miisa., 179S.
Ibmetimes alternating with round or broken ones. Flat-
roofed dormers were rare. The bold projections of the
dortners from the roof conftitute them one of the moll
Fijf. 21. {A) From Governor Langdon's House, 1784, Portsmouth, N. H. (B) Troni
King Hooper's House, 1754, TJanvers, Mass. (C) From Hall House, 17S5, Medford,
Mass. (1>) From Count Runiford's House, Woburn, Mass.
gable. The gable (Fig. 23) from Count Rumford's houfe is
quite unique.
Color is the only other exterior feature worthy of remark.
Modern imitators would lead us to believe that it was uni-
verfal to paint the ground a darker, ufually a yellow, color, and
pick out the trimmings in
white. But few photographs
fhow this — the color ufually
being a monotonous white.
There are even fome in-
ftances in which the trim-
mings are darker than the
ground. An indefatigable
inquirer tells us that origi-
nally Venetian red was uni-
verfal. Yellow and v.hite
came later. By carefully
fcraping off the succefTne
coats of paint red was found
to underlie the others.
In brick buildings the
Fig. 22. The Old Library, P.oston, Mass.
Charles Itultinch, Architect.
trimmings were of white ftone or quite often wood painted
white, pleafmgly coiitrafting with the general red tone.
INTERIORS.
In the interior, the ftaircafe-hall, with its generous allot-
ment of room, is quite remarkable. The hall can be made
the moft effective of all the rooms, for it has the firft and the
laft chance to make a good iniprefiion upon the vifitor. The
value of this was not loft fight of, fince Colonial houfes feem
to be the very embodiment of welcome and generofity.
• «l (• r« »•■"«• •!' ™ ».™.'r.".,"".".",,""","..~'.?^.t."™.".'
Fig. 23. Rear Dormer: Count P.umford's House, Woburn, Mass.
The ftairs are broad and the treads eafy, with neat turned,
or often hand-carved, fcroll, balullers and newels. In fome
of the bert examples carved brackets decorated each tread.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
limilar to that Ihown by Figure 80, from the South. The
modern idea of having one or two intermediate landings was
rarely ufed.
The ceilings often have a richly moulded cornice with
Hig. 24. From the Governor Lang-
don House, Portsmoiiih, N. H.
Fig. 25. From the Hodge's House,
Salem, Mass.
Corinthian modillions. The flat furface i.s fometimes deco-
rated with fonie pattern ornament in plaller (Fig. 29^ though
it was more often left plain. .\ fiiiiilar treatment is fome-
times applied to the foffit of the Hairs.
The walls were wainlcotted, after the Knglilh manner,
ufually three feet high or fo, though often all the way up to
the ceiling, in large panels of wood. In fome of the bert
houfes Dutch fcenic wall-paper was preferred.
The fireplaces, with their mantelpieces often carried up to
the ceiling, are the main features of the other rooms. Thefe
mantels are remarkable for delicacy in ornament and in
detail. The orders often ufed to fupport the flielf are, with
the greateft propriety, attenuated, fometimes to even twice
the ufual number of diameters, or even more. Much hand-
carving occurs, fuch as delicate fluting, balls, beads, eggs-and-
darts, figures and geometric patterns, and a very charming,
low-relief ornament, bafed upon the decorative work of the
brothers Adam, in England (Figs. 26, 29). French rococo
ornament is to be found in fome very rare inflances onlv.
It is worthy of notice, that though the Italian rococo
ings, the twifted baluflers, and in fome broken pediments.
The Colonial flyle, though adapted from ClafTic motives,
never became very formal, and fo never felt the need of a
reaftion. This ftyle did not fuccumb through the throwing
^y ..^
Fig. 27. From Litchfield,
Conn.
Fig. 28. From the Jaffrey
House, Portsmouth, N. H.
off of all reftraint, but through the Greek revival and through
the almoft fimultaneous fecond flood of immigration in the
beginning of this century.
The treatment of the door and window finifh exhibits
almofl: every variety which the Renaiffance has bequeathed
to us. Flanking pilaflers with plain, broken or carved pedi-
ments occur frequently. If any one thing can be faid to be
charatleriflic, it is the decoration of the panels, either carved
or of putty, with motives jult fpoken of as borrowed from
the brothers Adam (Figs. 30, 31). Ultimately, they are
bafed upon Roman fefloons. The modelling is fo exquifite,
and they are, moreover, capable
of fo much variety in difpofition
as to juftify the eagernefs with
which the Colonifls ufed them.
Happy, indeed, is the evolution
of the heavy Roman feftoon to
a firing of forget-me-nots, each
fmaller than the preceding,
each feftoon bound to the next
with a delicate ribbon. The
door finifli defigns (Figs. 30, 31)
are well worthy of emulation.
Of neceflity, all the peculiarities have not been pointed
out, nor, indeed, have all types been referred to. The
reader's mind has perhaps reverted tc tales of romance which
have endued Colonial life with abiorbing interefl. " The
House of Seven Gables" (Fig. 32) may, in advance, have fug-
gefted a complete picture ; a picture full of turrets and gables
and all manner of broken fky-lines, but nothing of fimple,
dignified, Claflical fronts. But Hawthorne, according to
his fen's biography, had little fenfe of locality or tafle for
abfolutely corredt defcription. Though he did not invent his
Fig. 29. Plaster Ceiling, Salem, Mas:
Fig. 26. I'r.rtion <if an
Fig. 30. Doorway, Salem, Mass. Fig. J!. Parlor Door, Nicholson-
' Ceiling. Period from 1760. Pierce House, Salem, Mass., 1780.
fpread to moft countries and flamped its charadeiiftics upon architecture, he did that which is hardly lefs deceptive: he
every branch of art, the New England Colonies efcaped picked out exceptional cafes and altered thefe to fuit his
almoft unharmed. Rococo as a period of art was in them fancy, which found but little of value in Claflic fynimetry.
unknown. Some inflances of rococo are found in the ceil- Pidurefquenefs, though not a charaaeriftic, is not entirely
iVElF ENGLAXD CHURCHES.
lacking It occurs molUy in cottages, fome of which, with
their prim gables, feem magically tranfported from England.
Another fource of piclurefquenefs is that of gradual addition
to a fmall nucleus, as in Figure 4. Peter Avery had bought
a condemned church and this he tried to incorporate with
the older part of his home. The refult is certainly quaint.
We have in the preceding confidered a feries of homes of
the people, ftruclures' far lefs pretentious than, and, there-
fore, not comparable with, the palaces of Italy, the chateau.\;
of France, or the manors of England. Although every detail
of our Colonial work might be traced to fome European
prototype, the general refemblance is flight. '1 ime, diftance
and materials contributed on this fide of the water to pro-
duce a ftyle of doinefl:ic architecture of marked individuality,
dignified without being formal, pure, fiinple, homelike and
peerlefs. Peerlefs — yes; for, whether it be that this is the
only domeft!c architecture worthy of much confideration, or
that only Americans have thought it worth while to ftudy the
/">N-
Fig. 32. House of Seven Gables. RoRcr Williams House, 1635.
houfes of their forefathers, it is a fac1: that no other (lyle is
nearly fo fully recorded, or illullrated in fo abundant a
literature.
Pfl'.LIC AKCHITECIURK : CHUkCHKS.
But ihere was other building than that of dwellings. Some
public flructures flill remain, and many have been demolilhed
to be replaced by later buildings. It is a pleafure to note
that the general fentiment is now flrong for preferving the
*A CHHoNoiJ
I'ABl.R OK S'lMK IMVcKTANT MIW KNt.LAMJ <<iI,i'MAr.
RESIDKNf ES.
Building.
I>ate.
Location.
Authority.
Ro<jf.
Cradock Ilou^e
''-34
Mrdford, Mass
Drake ....
Oambrel.
Standish "
163'j
Duxbiiry, '*
Vetitury ....
•'
Bull "
'&3'>
Newport. R. T
A lit. Arch,.
"
Minot Homestead
1^40
Doicliesler, Mass
Drake
(lable..
The Ked Horse Inn..
i^fo
SMdbu.v. ••
< Janibrel
Old Indian House
i6,Ho
Deerfi.ld. '*
*'
C.aMe..
Grant *' ■••■
about 1770
Newport. R. I
Attt. Arch..
Cambrel.
Warrcr " ...
1723
Pnrismniilli, N. 11. .-■
PIlolO
"
Peprercll '*
'725
Kitierv. Me
l)rake
"
Thompson *'
1730
Wobiirn, Mass.
Am. Arch..
"
Walker •• ....
"734
Concord, '* ■ ■-
" *■
Hancock '* ..
1737
Bttsion, " .
Drake
"
Hobgoblin Hall
1740
Medlord. "...
"
I»alion House
1740
D'-rcIiestrr, " .-
Mansard
Evereit "
<74o
Newburvport, " .
Photo
Cambrel
Putnam "
'744
Daiivers, '* ...
Drake
"
Adam^i "
1750
Uuincv, " ...
•'
"
Wclb Place
1752
WeaihrrsfitK! Conn...
Am. Arch..
"
Hooper House
1754
Danvf rs. Mass
Drake.. . .
'•
Vassall "
175')
Cambridge, "
1 hoto
Mansard
Derby *'
i7''0
Salem "
14
(iambrcl
Bannister '• .■•
between
N.-wpt)rt, R I
A m Arch. .
"'
Vernon " ...
i7<;o
" "
Mansard
Oibbs " ...
and
" "
" "
Hazard " ...j
1776
•* *•
.( (t
Flat
Quincy '*
'770
Quincy, Mass. ..
Drake
Pierce " .••-■
17'^
.Salem, " ..■
IMiMiu
"
'■ Elmwood "
about i7!<o
Cambridge, " ...
■'
Babwn House
1781
Nrwbnrvpnrt, " ...
"
*'
Lanedon "
Hall " ....
i-lU
Portsmouth, N. H
"
Mansard
17S5
Medford, Mass...-
" ......
(uiMibrel
Hall *' ....
1789
' " . . . .
"
Mansard
Taylor " ....
'79^
Weymoulh, " ....
"
Flat,
Arnold "
17*/*
Bost(.t., " ....
*'
Mansard
Hurd " ....
1795
Charlcstown, '* ....
'*
Flat
Appleton "
about I Hog
Boston, *'
"
"
Carrington '*
*• 1800
Providence, R. I
"
Baldwin "
Hodge " ....
Oti» •' ...
Salem Mass- . . .
.1
i*ioo
Boston. "
"
" . ...
few old-time mementos we flill have. Several have been
reflored. Thefe are, however, rarely of much iiitrinfic value,
polTeffing, as tliey do, little of originality, and being generally
poor copies of tranfatlantic works.
After confiderable fearching, I
have found but fcanty material.
Fifteen churches and eight fecular
buildings conftitute my entire lifl
for New England. It is poffible
that there was but little ufe for
Fig. 33. Friends' Meeting-iiouse, town houfcs and cit)'-halls : the
Hurli'iglon, N. J. , t- 1 /- n r ■ ir
meeting-houies, lerving alio
other than devotional purpofes, helped to fupply their places.
The earlieft of thefe " meeting-houfes " were plain and
bare to the point of rudeiicfs. Puritan fentiment did not
countenance difplay or even limited decoration, and dif-
carded the very word '-church," becaufe alTociated with fo
much outwarcl fltow.
The ufual type, according to Dr. E;ggleflon, w-as fquare in
plan. On the exterior were two flories of windows. The
fteep roof, floping from the four fides, was furmounted by a
belfry with a flender fpire, the bell-rope dangling in the mid-
dle of the affembly-room. Such was the famous "Old Ship"
at Hiiigham, Mafs.^ This type was much more fuited for a
fchool-houfe than for a place of worfliip, though not per se
devoid of anirtic poffibilities.
Some were of ft 11 ruder forms, often mere barns. Occa-
fionally a fmall hexagonal plan was adopted (Fig. 33). One
would be glad to find in poverty and in the date of their
erection an excufe for fuch inappropriate forms and crude
ideas — but many contemporary refidences ftill exifl to teftify
to much tafte combined with great fimplicity. Moreover,
fmall and artiftic churches aie found farther fouth. Poverty
is no excufe for poor defign.
An old church at Narraganfet, R. I., is ilightly better. In
it the lower, and taller, flory of windows has round heads,
and the doorway, too, is fomething more tlian a mere open-
ing with a hinged (lap.
It was impoffible for the ultra Puritan alceticifm to con-
Fig. 34. Park St. Steeple. P.oston,
.M.1SS.
Fig. 35. Pulpit of King's Chaijel,
Ijoston, Mass.
tinue indefinilel}'. .\ reaction muft let in, and man's inborn
love for beauty mufl find fome expreffion. The evil feed,
however, had been fown, and there are thofe who attribute
1 1 ait IV. Plate 17.
lO
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
the decadence of the church in New England, partially at
leafl, to this long refiifal to fatisfy ajflhetic requirements.
Chrift Church at Shrewsbury, N. J-, an improvement upon
the Narraganfet church, is doubly interelling. It is a church
unmiflakably, and of a type
which has later been copied
in hundreds of our Weftern
towns — an oblong plan
with four to fix round-headed
windows on each fide, a
pediment with a bull'f-eye
window at each end. and a
belfry burfling through the
roof in front. The two
front doorways, where one
would be fufficient, have an
intereft, recalling, as they
do, the focial cuftom of feat-
i'ng the men and women on
different fides of the church,
with a barrier throughout
the length to feparate the
young folks. This church
is frame and fliingled ; many
like it are clapboarded.
The details are ClafTic,
rather freely treated. This
kind of a church is at moft
fuited for the country or
for a village. In a growing
town it is foon brufhed afide
and replaced by another.
Thefe fviperfeding
churches form a clafs by
themfelves. More citified
and fubftantial, they are
ufirally of brick or of flone.
Their defign is fo directly
Fig. 36. First Unitarian Church, Eliot Sq.;
Roxbury, Boston, Mass. Built in 1784.
bafed upon the Wren churches of London as to deceive any
except clofe fcrutiny. The towers are, perhaps, more tapering
and graceful, and the churches throughout feem to be better
built. Thefe towers — in compofition Gothic, in details Re-
naiflance — are the prominent features. The fcheme is fimple :
a fquare bafe, feveral contradling, ufually oftagonal, ftories, and
a fteep crowning fpire. Thefe tower ftories are treated with
the orders, cornices, pediments, baluftrades and large fcrolls,
ufed with much variety, though often rather awkwardly, for
few elements could be lefs tradable in fpire compofition.
Such towers are found all the way from New England to the
Carolinas. The Park Street Church, Bofton, fteeple, Peter
Banner, architect, is one of the fineft of this clafs (Fig. 34).
The Old South Church,^ too, at Bofton, is a well-known
ftru6ture. In this the fquare part of the tower rifes high
above the main roof-ridge. The tranfition to the one-ftory
oftagon is concealed by a baluftrade. The flender, foaring
fpire is fine indeed, with its four lofty dormers at the bafe.
The interiors, too, follow Englifli models. Thus St. James's
Church, Piccadilly, has in Chrift Church, Bofton, an echo of
that peculiar ceiling treatment in which the barrel-vault of
the main aifle is interfedted by fmall tranfverfe vaults over the
bays of the fide aifles. The heavinefs of this arrangement is
fkilfully avoided in St. Martin'f-in-the-Fields, by making the
croff-vaults interfeCt longitudinal vaults over all three aifles.
This is echoed in King's Chapel,^ Bofton, the cradle of Uni-
tarianifm in the United States. Tiie Chapel is even an im-
'Kee illustratioTis in ;i later article on the roof of the building.
^Plates 15 to 19, Part I.
provement, for here the coupled columns juftify the block of
entablature over them in a manner fingle columns cannot do.
This interior, in almoft pure white, is faid to be one of the
fineft remaining from thofe days.
Church furniture, efpecially the pulpits and founding-
boards, fhow much thought and care. The fine pulpit of
King's Chapel (Fig. 35 and PI. 18, Part I), in ufe fince 1686,
is afcended over narrow fteps inclofed by a baluftrade of
hand-carved, fpiral fpindles. The delicate mouldings of the
pulpit and of the founding-board are broken above and be-
low the pilafters, which are fet back a little from the corner,
thus giving much light and fliade. Trinity Church of New-
port, R. I., can alfo boaft of a welldefigned and fimilar pulpit.
A crown, the laft of royal infignia in the States, is ftill poifed
on Trinity's lofty fpire.
SECULAR BUILDINGS.
The few remaining fecular buildings fhow fimplicity of tafte
and propriety in defign. Three out of the eight buildings
above referred to belong to Newport, and their recording is due
to the patriotifm of George C. Mafon, an archite6t of that city.'
These buildings illustrate twoState-houfes and a library^ at
Bofton, a library and a town-houfe at Newport, a town-houfe
at Weatherffield, Conn., a market at Newport, and a cuftom-
houfe at Salem. If to thefe we add a fynagogue at Newport,
my entire lift is exhaufted. All of thefe buildings date from
1740 to 1800.
It is difficult to clafTify fo few buildings, and it would be
hazardous to generalize, for to do that would be to affume
that thefe examples are
typical, whereas they may
be, as is the Old State-
houfe (Fig. 39),'^ at Bof-
ton, quite unique.
We have already feen
that the beft churches
were bafed upon Englifh
models. That many of
the civic buildings, alfo,
had Englifh elements
maybe inferred from the
fadt that Peter Harrison,
the architeft of the
market at Newport (Fig.
38), and of other build-
ings there and elfewhere,
had been an afliftant to
the famous Sir John Van-
brugh.
The name of another
early Newport archite<5t
is alfo recorded : Richard
Munday ftarted in a6tive
life as a partner in the
building bufinefs with
Benjamin Wyatt. But
Munday was made of am-
bitious ftuff and ere long
offered his fervices as
an independent defigner.
He muft have been fucceffful, for in 1738 the Town of New-
port faw fit to entruft him with the defign and eredtion of its
new town-houfe (Fig. 40). This building is fymmetrical,
3 The omission front this shoit list of Fanueil Plall [Plates 31-33, Part
TI] by Peter Smibert anti, later, Charles Bulfinch must be quite acci-
dental.— Kd.
* The building here mentioned was destroyed many years before this
paper was written. — Kd.
s Plate 46, Part II.
Fig. 37. Spire of Congregational Church,
Manchester-by-the-Sea, Mass.
NEW ENGLAND PUBLIC BUILDLXGS.
11
Fig. 38. Market or City-Hall, Newport, R. I.,
1760. Peter Harrison, Architect.
well-proportioned and quiet, but it lacks the architedural
character of Harrifon's fomewhat later works. For fuggef-
tion, Munday depended upon the type then in vogue for
larger refidences, previ-
oufly defcribed. He in-
creafed the dimenfions,
added another window on
each fide of the door,
placed an odtagonal cu-
pola on the roof, and gave
dignity to the whole by
raifing it upon a ruftic
bafement five feet high.
The dimenfions are forty
feet by eighty. Honeftly
conflru(5ted of brick and ftone, it bravely promifes to weather
the feaf ins for many generations yet to come.
The old Library at Bofton (Fig. 22) and the Market at
Newport (Fig. 38) are both in the Palladian ftyle, fomewhat
after the manner of the brothers Adam, England.
Bofton is fortunate in flill retaining two fine State-houfes.
The older, more pi<5lurefque and interefting (Fig. 39), cover-
ing a fmall plot of ground with ftreets clofe upon all fides,
fhows, ftrangely enough, decided Dutch influences in its
fingly-ftepped end-gables with affroiite Hon and unicorn,
and in its S-fhaped exterior wall-anchors. The new State-
houfe, on tlie other hand, is a model of Clafficality. Its
prominent features are feveral flights of broad fteps up the
hill, a proje(5lipg arcade of the firfl flory, with an open colon-
nade of fingle and coupled columns above, and a high, domi-
neering gilded dome. The building is only two flories high,
on a low bafement. It was built in 1795 and was one of the
moft important undertakings of its time. Charles Bulfinch,
its architedt, was born in Bofton. 1763. He fpent fome time
in Europe after graduating. The fucceffful feature of this
1
not to believe it to be elaftic or fpringy, partaking fomething
of the nature of a balloon.
The Cuftom-houfe at Salem (Fig. 41) is very pleafing and
appropriate. This buila-
ing gains additional in-
tereft from affociation
with Hawthorne. Here
it was that he firft con-
ceived the romance of
the " Scarlet Letter."
The meagrenefs of
this part of the review is
all the more deplorable,
for public buildings Pig. 40. Town-House, latelv State-House. New-
fllOuld be, and in moft P°". »■ I- '^tS- Richard Mu„day, Architect.
countries are, the outcome of a community's beft efforts.
But this very poverty of ftrudlure illuftrates better than any-
thing elfe could that our Colonial architefture was mainly a
domeftic architecture.
THE MIDDLE PROVINCES : DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE.
When Nieuw Amfterdam became New York, only about
fixty years after its founding, the Dutch had already impreffed
many of their charadleriftics upon its architecture. Of thefe,
fome were foon outgrown, others perfifted for a long time.
It is quite natural that Englifli elements at laft prevailed.
But there is, after all, only a flight refemblance between the
architecture of New England and that of the Middle States.
In fome localities Englifli influence hardly has been felt at all.
In New York City but little of the old work remains.
One might expedt that this city, with its 24,000 inhabitants
in 1776, would have left us important ftruttures. But fires
and progrefs have made great havoc, or, as Richard Grant
White cleverly phrafes it: "Old New York has been fwept
out of exiftence by the great tidal wave of its own material
profperity " But what remains is always interefting and
valuable, often pricelefs.
The entire field is the one leaft inveftigated by writers
upon architecture. An attempt to claflify the few examples
of which data are obtainable might prove futile. It is, how-
ever, certainly interefting to note peculiarities and points of
fimilarity or diffimilarity between the Colonial work of this
and of other fections.
New York was not only the moft tolerant of all the colonies
Fig. 39. The Old State-House, Boston, Mass.
defign is the colonnade furmounting the arcade, with the un-
ufual difpofition of two pairs of columns at each end and four
fingle in between. The dome, too, is fine. But it is hard
Fig. 41. The Custom-House, Salem, Mass.
towards religious beliefs, but it was alfo the moft eclettic and
cofmopolitan in all matters, including buikling. Even before
the peaceful Englifli occupation eighteen languages were
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Fist. 42. Dmch Manor, Long Island, N. V.
fpoken in the city of New York, then having only 1.500 in-
habitants. This little Babel welcomed every (lyle of archi-
teCJure and every kind of building-material. In New Eng.
land we found
wood to be a char-
deriflic. In the
Southern Colonies
frame ftructures
were, as we fliall
fee, e.xlremely rare.
But in the Middle
Colonies, as was
eminently proper,
wood and flone,
brick and llucco were employed. The roofs were covered
with every available material — Hate, lliingles or tile, tin, lead
or copper.
It has been pointed out how defpiled the log-cabin was in
New England. It was, if poflible, Hill lefs thought of in this
fetlion. No Dutchman is known
ever to have erected one for his
dwelling. If he ever was forced
to fuch a dire neceflity, he muft
have fucceeded, fooner than did
his northern fellow coloniil, in
replacing it with fomething more
acceptable.
Much, too, is loft by the abfence of roof-baluftrades. For,
though thefe are certainly without any practical value on a
Fig. 46. Typical New York Dormer. Fig. 47. Dormers at Newcastle, Eng.
pitched roof, they feem almoft indifpenfable for a good finifh,
at le;ift for large houfes. Kut ihere were few lofty houfes.
The phlegmatic Hollander looked upon long flights of ftairs
as a nuifance. His ceiling was
high enough if it was eight
or nine feet above the floor.
There feemed to him to be no
ufe for a fecond ftory, when
an attic might do. His houfe
tended rather to horizontal
dimenfions.
Fig. 43. Door-hood of the Van Ren
selaer House, Greenbush, N. Y.
Fig. 44.
The ElsieGerret*enFioiise,
Brooklyn, N.
Flatbiish .Avenue, near Fenimore Street,
Y. Built about 1781.
Fig, 48. From the House of New
York's Third Mayor.
Nor did the typical New England cottage, with its long
fweep of roof, find much favor. Some do occur but the
Dutchman preferred to have a long flope to the front as well
as to the rear (Figs. 42, 45 and the Verplanck lioufe on p. 25).
Splendid ClalTical fronts, fuch as that of Longfellow's home.
Fig. 45. (")ld Homestead of the Lefferts Family, 563 Flalbusli Ave., Brooklyn, N. ^ '
are rare indeed. The few that belong to this type generally
lack any attempt at Ittitit corre6tnefs in detail and monu-
mentality in treatment.
Very few abfolutely new features are encountered. The
ftepped gable, which occurred only fporadically in New Eng-
land, was here found at every turn, from the Hudson to the
Sufquehanna. Very old prints ftiow rows of thefe gabled
facing the flreeis. By
degrees they difap- . ~ 1
pear, and even as
early as the Revolu-
tion they were not
very common.
The gambrel roof,
which was not ufed
very often, was much
m o d i fi e d . Some-
liines it included two
ftories of windows, as
in Figure 42. The
,, Fig. 49. Old Doorway, ii5th Street, New York City.
upper Hope was re-
duced in fize, so as to become, in many cafes, quite infignifi-
cant. The long, lower flope was, as in very early New Eng-
land examples, gracefully curved, fo as to foften its angularity
1 The Lki-1 kkts IIomf.steaI), Fi.ati!U.sii Avenue, Brooklyn, N. Y.
— The present owner of this house, Mr. John Lefferts, |r , writes: "The
old hou>e on Flatbush Avenue in this city has been in the occu])ancy of
the Lefferts family for many years. We have no dcfinile data of tiie age
of this house. It )ias always been owned and occiij)ied by a iiieniber of
the Lefferts family, and handed down from one generation to another.
My father, the late Mr Jolm Lefferts of Flatbush. always siijiposed lliat
tile house was built alxjut 1750; at any rate, it stood there for several
years previous to the Revolutionary War, for during and before ll.e
Kattle of f.ong Island it was occupied by a Lefferts. About forty years
ag<j. my fatlier built an addition in the lear of this house, of a type of
architecture entirely foreign to tlie old structure. He has often told me
he regretted this, for it spoils, to some extent, the beauty of the old
house when looking at it from its side. It was dc>ne, however, when
there was not much attention paid to architectural effect in this part of
the country. I am not an architect and cannot describe in detail some
of the beautiful things about the old house, but would call special atten-
tion to the front doorway,* which is unique as a Colonial type and es-
peci.iUy attractive in its moulding and carving. The house originally
had a Dutch divided door, with the customary brass knocker, but that
was unfortunately removed for the ]iresent one. This is the only devi-
ation in the house proper from its truly Dutch tyiie."
•See Plate 4, Part IV.
DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE: THE MIDDLE PROVINCES.
13
and >.ardncfs(Figs. 42 and 45). Many of the ordinary gabled Still another peculiarity was what might be termed " wLi-
roofs, alfojhad a neat curve at the bottom of the Hope, juft at dow tracery." In the large cities of Hofton, New York dnd
Philadelphia there was evolved a flyle of light cafl-iroii bar-
tracerv," of various combinations of circles, ferments and
Fig. SO. The Van Rensselaer Manor House, Greenbusll, N. V. Fig. 5^, Van Rensselaer Mansion, Albany, N. Y. Wings by R. Upjohn, 1S40.
the overhang of the eaves. This overhang, too, is worthy of ftraight lines, with a bit of foliage at fome of the interfecfions
fpecial notice. Farther north it occurred at eveiy ftory-level, (Fig. 49)- This was much ufed for the fide lights and for the
and gradually difappeared in later houfes. But the Dutch re- tranfoms of doorways, and is ffill the moft flriking feature of
tained it, though uling;
it only at the eaves.
Sometimes it was
made fo great as to
become a ffoop or
porch, requiring fup-
porting columns.*
Hackenfack, efpe-
cially, has many fuch
overhanging eaves.
The details, as be-
fore dated, are not
very Claflic. although
generally derived
from fome C 1 a ffi c
fource. Many vaga-
ries and oddities
occur. It would be
difficult to find a pre-
cedent for the hood
over the rear door of
old city houfes. It is
often very delicate,
pleafuig, and richly
varied in defign.
Sometimes this
tracery ferved to hold
the glafs, but quite
often it was independ-
ent of it. Its use
continued far down
into the Greek re-
vival.
That, in fpite of
all Dutch iiiHuence,
Englilh, or rather
New England, influ-
ences are quite ob-
fervable, could not be
better illuftrated than
by three Van Renf-
felaer manor-houfes.
Fig. SI. The Morris House, i6ist Street and lolh Avenue, New York City, Built in 1762
the "ancient"- Van RenlTelaer manor, at Greenbulh, X. Y. Kfpecially noticeable is the tendency to roof elimination.
(Fig. 43), or for tlie interior door-trim of a New York houfe The oldelt of thefe, the one called the 'ancient," at Green-
(Fig. 48). Both are charming in their originality and inde-
pendence.
Typical New York dormers (Fig. 46) are baled, as the
Connedficut porches previoudy defcribed, upon Michael
Angelo's window treatment. Tiiey continued to be built for
a long time, and may ftill be found on many old houfes of that
city and its neighborhood. Another diflinct tvpe of dormer
Fig. S2. \'an Rensaelaer Manor, 17^.10, Albany, X. V.
is given in Figure 68. Tlie accompanying Iketch (I'ig. 47)
fhows an Englilh precedent from Newcallle.
'See also the account of the Verplanck House at Fishkill on Hudson,
later on.
Fig, .S4. Marble Mantel: Van Rensselaer Mansion, Atl)any, X. V., dale 1765.
bulh, N. Y, (Fig. 50), is very quaint and piclurefque — Dutch
throughout. The hood in Figure 43 belongs to this houfe
Claffic influence is very flight.
■^ Plates 39-4r, Part II and Plate 7, I'ait III.
u
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
But the fine old manor at Albany (Fig. 50), built in 1765,
fliows Claflicifm in the afcendency. The roof is a peculiar
compromife between the gambrel and the manfard, for what
under the porch, is carried on cantilevers and extends only
half as far as does the main porch.
The home of Alexander Hamilton, on the Hamilton
Grange, with the thirteen hiftoric elms near by, is alfo inter-
Fig. 5S. Old Dutch Cottage, ii6th Street, New York City.
fhould be the upper flope of the gambrel has become a flat
deck, but without producing a manfard, for the end-walls
are carried up to the full height of the roof. The strufture
is now being torn down and rebuilt for a college fraternity
at Williamftown, Mafs. The old Dutch fcenic wall-paper,
which ornamented the hall, has been carefully removed for
future ufe.
In the third manor (Fig. 52), alfo at Albany, Claffic con-
quefl is complete, with ftrongly marked horizontal lines, a
flat roof with a baluilrade, an engaged Doric portico, and
a Palladian window. This building and the preceding are
placed up on high bafements, a thing which was rarely done
in New England.
Several old manfions are (till ftanding in New York and
in its immediate vicinity. Many of thefe depend for hiftoric
interefl upon affociation with Wafhington. Among them is
Fig. 57. Colonial House, Germantown, Pa.
efting. Its Doric cornice has fmall inoflenfive triglyphs. A
baluftrade furrounds the flat roof. Two porches only remain
of the three which once almoft enclofed it upon three fides.
No engaged two-ftory columns or pilafters occur, in fact fijch
features are rare throughout the Middle States, and entirely
lacking in the Southern.
Figure 55 reprefents a little Dutch cottage on ii6th Street
near 7th Avenue, New York. It is now almoft overgrown
with additions and out-buildings — the refult of making a
"road-houfe" of it. At prefent it is ufed once more as
a dwelling. Another and quite fimilar cottage is illuftrated
in Figure 42.
Yonkers's City-hall ^ might well be called "ancient," as
antiquity goes in America. It was built in 1682 by Fred-
erick Philipfe for his manor. In 1745 it was confiderably
enlarged. In 1779, its Tory owner having fled, it was confif-
^7y.
Fig. 56. The Apthorpe House, 90th Street and loth Avenue, New York, N. Y.
the fine old Jumel manfion^ at 165th Street and 9th Avenue,
built about 1760 (Fig. 55). It has a front porch with
very flender two-ftoried columns. The fecond-ftory balcony,
'The Morris Mansion, or Jumel House. — "This building is all
the more interesting because it is itself an historical building in the
sense that Mount Vernon is historical. It was built about 175S by Roger
Morris, who, formerly a liritish officer, naturally was a Tory during the
Revolution, and because of this, as naturally, had his property, this house
amongst it, confiscated. Washington quartered here during the opera-
tions about New York. Later tlie house became the property of the
Mme. Jumel who married for her third husb.ind Aaron liurr when in his
seventy eighth year, and from whom she later attempted to get a divorce.
cated and fold, only to be rebought in 1868, fince which
time it has been in ufe for civic purpofes. The ftructure is
rather peculiar, and not very remarkable for beauty. It is
long and narrow, two ftories high, with a hipped roof relieved
by dormers, and crowned by a baluftrade running all around
the flat deck on top. Upon the long front are two entrances,
making it look much as though two houfes had grown together.
The Apthorpe Houfe (Fig. 56), which until quite recently
2 Plates 24-29, Part II.
DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE: THE MIDDLE PROVINCES.
'5
exifted on the corner of gth Avenue and 90th Street, was
fomewhat peculiar in plan. The plan and elevation were
quite finiilar to that of the home of Waihington's mother.
Each had a deep two-
flory recefs in the
middle. On the
front were four two-
ftory pilafters.
The early feitlers
of Pennfylvania were
remarkable in many
ways. William Penn
prepared upon his
immenfe land-grant
a refuge for all
r e 1 i g i o VI s fedts.
Among thefe were
Quakers, Moravians,
Mennonites, Dunk-
ards and Solitary
Brethren. In view
of fuch an affem-
blage of world-
efchewing zealots, it
is not f u r p r i fi n g
■=^1
Fig. SS. Livezey's House, Allen's Lane and Wissahickon Creek, Phila. Built 1652 and supposed to be the
oldest house in State.
palifades, a common mode of building in their native country.
Exceptions are often as interefling as charadJteriftics. If
anything can be faid to be unique, it furely muft be a Proteft-
ant convent. Such
an one was eftab-
lifhed by the fo-called
Soli tary Brethren
(and Sifters), in
1725, at Ephrata,
near Lancafter, Pa.
This eftablifhment at
firft grew rapidly in
numbers and eredted
fever al fubftantial
buildings, fome of
which are ftill ftand-
ing (Fig. 60). Thefe
are huge, fi m p 1 e
flru6tures, two ftories
high, with the ufual
large, fteep, German
gable. The very
fmall doors and
windows, irregularly
fpaced, produce a
that Philadelphia is, to-day, the embodiment of Philiftinifm.
Many large and often impofing buildings remain, efpecially
in Philadelphia and in Germantown. One of the beft of
thefe, a flucco brick flrudture, fomewhat remodelled in later
times, is given in Figure 57. Stucco feems to have been
largely employed — perhaps owing to German influence —
often with brick quoins and other brick trimmings. Stone
was, however, the chief building-material.
The details generally are hard and crude, and often inap-
propriate. The home of the Colonial botanift, John Bar-
tram, at Philadelphia, built in 1731, has two-ftory femi-de-
tached columns
with huge Ionic
fcrolls.' The
German rococo
mouldings of the
w indow-frames,
too, are out of
all fcale with the
humble dwelling.
In Pennfyl-
vania there were
rarely any ve-
randas, porches,
or gardens (Fig.
58). The fierce
fight with the
primeval forefts
had engendered
ahatredof fliade-
trees : the fettlers
preferred to let
the fun bake
their unprotected
walls.
The founders
of New Sweden
in Delaware were
gloomy look. The feci:, which long ago died out, has been
fuperfeded by Seventh-Day Baptifts.
INTERIORS.
Hardly anything can be faid of the interiors, fo few are
illuftrated. Scenic wall-paper was ufed fomewhat, though
only in the beft houfes. Large wall-panelling of wood was
much employed even in ordinary houfes. The ftaircafe halls
were moftly fimple affairs, as in the plan in Figure 55. The
hall of the fecond Van Renffelaer manor was exceptionally
large, 23' x 46', and the flairs were in a feparate enclofure off
this hall. Some
few flaircafe halls
were very elabo-
rate, as in the
Wadfworth
Houfe at Gene-
fee, N. Y., which
very much re-
fembled the befl
work of New
England.
In few features
was there more
uniformity than
in the mantels.
Many of thefe
from far diftant
colonies are ftrik-
ingly fimilar. It
can be faid of the
greater number
of Colonial man-
tels that they are
very p 1 e a ft n g
and appropriate
in deiign, and
nioft care fully
Fi(C. 59. " Tlie Monastery, " C"arpenter's I.ane and WisRahickon Creek, Phila.
too few in numbers to exert any great influence. They, how- wrought out in detail. Perhaps they departed more from
ever, introduced an entirely new feature in the conftruclion ClalTic motives and were lefs delicate in the Middle Colonies
of frame-houfes. Thefe they enrlofed with upright fplit than in tlie other fections. It was quite charaderiftic of all
—•7- 7, — r,:, the mantels to interrupt the frieze below the flielf with an
- Plate 9, I art IV. '^
i6
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Tdw
ornamental panel. A limilar device was fometimes reforted
to in the entablature over the door (Fig. 6i).^
THE MIDDLE PROVINCES: PURLIC ARCHITECTURE.
Several notable public buildings, both ecclefiaftical and
fecular, have been preferved. In nioft of thefe, Englifli in-
fluence is predominant. Traces of Dutch elements, quite
marked in the donicflic architechire,-'' are here almoft entirely
wanting. The firft ftruft-
ures were Dutch, c. g. the
old Stadt Huys, or firft
City-hall, of New York,
on the river front, which
had ftepped gables and
other Low Country pe-
culiarities.
Firft in rank among
New York churches is
Old Trinity. The pref-
ent building replaced one which was built in 1788 on the
fpot where its predeceftbr, a iimilar ftruiSure, was burned
in 1776. This had iifelf replaced one ftill older, of which
no illuftrations have been preferved. The church of 1788
was, as might be expected, fomewhat ClalTical. The entrance
porch, femicircular in plan, had four pairs of coupled, Cor-
inthian columns, very much elongated. The fix windows on
'Erasmus Hall, Flathush, N. Y. — This building, occupied since
Octolier, 1S96, by llie Brooklyn Higli Scliool, was erected in 1786 by the
leading men of the town, in the main descendants of the early Dutch
settlers — tiiough in the list of subscribers' names we find those of John
fav, llamilt(jn and Aaron lUirr — who realized that now that the war
was over the all-important thing was to provide lor the education of the
rising generation. Although the interior was largely remodelled in
i8g6 the e.xterior shows the main building as it was originally built, ex-
cept that the porch was added in 1823, while the wings were built even
Fig. 60. Saal and Saroii, Kphrata, Pa.
-^. ■>.
,/
mmmmSlmmmim,
Erasmus Hall, I'lalbu
Bruuklyn, N . \ . i;.S(..
later. The building has .always been used for educational purposes, and
must be, to escape the reversion of building and site to the Reformed
Dutch Church of T'latbush, which made the original grant to this institu
tion. The nianlel [Plate 7 Part IV. | now in the school principal's office
is a good ty])e of the Colonial mantel found in houses owned by descend-
ants of the Dutch colonists.
^The WvcKorr Ilousr:, Long Island, N. V. — At P'latlands Neck,
Long Island, stands one of the oldest houses in the .State of New York.
Erected in i6f4, it is jnactically the same now as when built, and seeius
good for another century of comfortable habitation. The bricks for the
chimneys, fireplaces, and side-lining, and the shingles, of best white
cedar, for the roofs and siding, were imported from Holland. The
shingle siding on the south side of the house has never been changed.
As to the roof, the family say it was never touched until five years ago,
when a tin roof was put on. In 18 ly some repairs were made on the north
side in shortening the overhang of the roof, which extended so far out
and so l(jw down that a person could safely jump to the ground from it.
The north and east sides of the house were then reshingled, and a few
rooms were lathed and plastered for the first time. The rooms are low-
studded, the oak beams and flo(jring being the only ceiling. In the
dining-room this ceiling was never painted, and from long wear and
smoke from log fires and Dutch pipes it long since assumed the color
of walnut.
The great fire|)laces .ire suggestive of brass-handled andirons and
fenders, with great log fires fiaring and crackling, and the familv board
groaning with a weight of Dutch comfort and hospitality as warm' as was
ever pictured l)y the quaint humor of Diedrich Knickerbocker. Many
heirlooms of the family da.e back over 250 vears. There are reminders
each fide were round-arched, but the tower windows, curioufly
enough, were pointed. There was no effort to make a grace-
ful t ran fit ion to
the octagonal fpire
— the awkwardnefs
of which was fome-
what concealed
by a baluftrade,
with a fquare pin-
nacle at each cor-
ner. Four fimilar
pinnacles jutted
out of the main
roof, one at each
corner, and eight
others con ti nued
the Ines of the
porch columns
above the porch
cornice. All this
gave the ciiurch a
fomewhat Gothic
1 o p k a t a hafty
Fig. 61. Doorway at Canandaigua, N. Y. J?lance
Two of Trinity's older chapels^ ftill exift — both of the
\Vren type. The one is St. Paul's Chapel, ° built in 1764-
of the time when pewter mugs for tea drinking, and great pewter plates,
measuring eighteen inches across and weighing several pounds, were
among the few table dishes in common use. (jreat numbers of them
were melted up and cast into bullets for the army in the time of the
Revolution. There are also relics, ploughed u|) on the farm, of the time
when the redcoats and Hessians of George III overran the land. Four
rods south of the house some trees indicate the spot where two English
spies were hanged before the American army was driven off Long
Island.
According to family tradition and other evidence, Pieter WyckofT, a
Holland emigrant, located at Flatlands Neck about 1630. The land he
purchased of the Canarsie Indians has been handed down in the family
from generation to generation for over 260 years. The house, over 230
years old, was built the year Dutch was peaceably superseded by English
rule in exchange for Surinam. The property of fifty-six acres belongs to
the estate of the late John Wyckoff, who died four years ago, and is only
a |)art of that owned by his ancestors. The substantial Dutch barn was
built in 1809 by tiarret P. Wyckoff, who lived to be ninety-five years old
and died over twenty-five years ago. — Xew York Times.
•'Oldest House in New Yokk City, — Some one recently dis-
covered that the oklei-t house in New York is to let, and he laments the
fact. It stands at 122 William St., between John and Fulton, and it is
supposed to have been built in 1692. The old-fashioned Dutch bricks
that were ini])orted from Holland especially for its construction are still
part of its walls, and they carry their age well. The mortar in which
they stand is as firm as the bricks themselves. Vincent .S. Cook, who
has interested himself in this old house, says that frequent efforts have
been made to purchase it, so that it might be torn down, and a more
profitable building erected on this site, but they have been unsuccessful.
Abraham de Peyster was Mayor of New York when this house was
built, and it is recorded that he took a personal interest in it. Its com-
pletion was celebrated with a big jollification, and it was much admired
as a pretentious example of Dutch architecture. This house was occu-
])ied by several families of distinction and then it became an inn. It was
later a rendezvous for the Sons of Liberty, an organization opposed to'
the military occupation of New York by the British, and for several
years it was the scene of fierce strife. Among the distinguished men
who were entertained there at various times were Washington, La-
fayette, Putnam, Baron .Steuben, and Nathan Hale. The yard of this
house, although hemmed in by big buildings, looks as it did 150 years
ago. It is now like the ciunt-yard of a country tavern, and the house
itself suggests a colonial mansimi. The doors are low and broad, and
the stairways are winding. The windows are almost square. In re-
cent years this house has been used as a restaurant. — Boston Daily
Advertiser.
* Plates 10 and 16, Part IV.
''St, Paul's Chapel, New 'S'ork, N. Y. — On the third of Novem-
ber, 1763, the vestry of Trinity Church adopted an order providing for
the erection of a second chapel for the i^arish, having alreadv St. George's,
and choosing for the site a wheat field at the corner of Broadway and
Partition Street, now known as FulKni Street. The order was given'in
November; during the winter materials were collected, and in the spring
of 1764 work was begun, the cornerstone being laid Monday, May 14,
1764. In the autumn of 1766 it was so far completed as to be ready for
|)ublic use, three years, less four days, having passed since the giving of
the order to Iniild. On October 30, 1766, the chapel was thrown open
for public service. Dr Barclay and his successor. Rev. Dr. .^uchmuty,
were the promoters of the building of the chapel. In the turbulent years
of 1775 and 1776 New York was practically in the hands of the Revolu-
tionists and service in all the English churches was discontinued St.
PUBLIC ARCHITECTURE: THE MIDDLE PROVINCES.
17
1766. The other is St. John's,^ half a mile to the northweft,
built in 1803-1807. The tower of this latter chapel, once
gracing a fafhionable neighborhood, now frowns down upon
Commodore Vanderbilt's freight depot. Perhaps the very
fqualor and poverty which have overtaken it have been the
means of its prefervation. The chancel and choir are very
eflfedtive, each being diftinctly marked by the architedure.
Thefe two towers are quite fimilar, both being graceful and
(lender compofitions. St. Paul's^ is, perhaps, the more pleaf-
ing of the two, being more tapering. The churches differ
remarkably in their entrance porches : the little two-col-
umned entrance to St. Paul's is jufl as infignificant as the
huge portico of St. John's is coloffal and overpowering.
John McComb, to whom is afcribed the New York City-hall,
is alfo given as the architeft of St. John's Chapel.
The "Brick Church" on 5th Avenue and 37th Street (an
enlarged copy' of a down-town church, erefted in 1767 and
amateur architeft, and, indeed, he fucceeded well. The
great fault, however, of this defign, as of all Colonial work, is
the lack of depth of reveal. No amount of difpofition or
ornament can fatiffy if the whole has an appearance of being
i^tfi ^ ^ ^,' -z^ -j^ . ^ ^^ — "•_- , —
Flj. 62. Methodist Epijcopal Church, Waterloo, N. V.
long fince deftroyed), belongs alfo to the Wren type of
churches.
In Philadelphia feveral remark.ible old churches are Hill to
be found. The oldeft and largefl of thefe is Chrifl Cliurch,*
begun in 1727. It has a large, not ungraceful tower, fonie-
what of the Wren type, treated, however, without orders.
There is no apfe — the vifta of the interior is clofed with a
large Palladian window.
This church was defigned by Dr. John Kearfley, an
axnM;
fffrf/l
Flgf. 63. Details from Hamilton Mansion, Woodlands, near Philadelphia.
ftamped out of Iheet metal. It feems ftrange that the princi-
ples of chipboard conftrucflion (hould fo thoroughly imprefs
its mark on mafonry building. The interior is compofed of
Doric columns bearing a block of entablature, from which
fpread the arches.
St. Peter's Church,^ 1738, alfo in Philadelphia, has a fimilar
apfidal treatment. Its tower is one of the few not of the
Wren type.
Add the Zion Church, and we have three churches of this
city with Palladian windows in the gable end.
Hackenfack, N. J., has a long, low and pleafingly quaint
Dutch church, very different from the above. It is a Gothic
llructure of brownflone, with brick trimmings around the
openings, dating from 1696. The pointed windows are
probably due rather to a lingering reminifcence of Gothic
Paul's remained closed for several months until the liiitish took pos-
session of New York, aiid having escaped <!estruction in a fire that con-
sumed the greater part of New York, September 22, the church was again
open for service and for some years held first place among the city
churches, being used as a city church and attended by Washington.
The architect was a .Scotchman named Mcliean.at that time a resident
of New Brunswick, N. J. It is supimsed that Mclican was a pupil or
contemporary of (jibbs's of London, there being a strong resemblance
between the interior of McBean's church and that of St. Martin in-the-
Fields by Gibbs.
In 1787 an altar-piece designed by Colonel I. 'Enfant was i)ut in, and on
March 24, 1794, the steeple, designed by Lawrence, was begun. From
then on, clock, bell, stoves, chandeliers and other details were added,
until the building of the churchyard wall. May 10, 1S09, completed St.
Paul's Chapel. — Ed.
> Plate 16, Part IV.
2 Plate 3, Part IV.
'The present building was erected in 1S58. — Ed.
'Plates 42-45, Part II and Plate 31, Part IV.
FIj. 64. Old Stone [Swedish] Church, 1735, Wilmington, Del.
than to a confcious revival. There are no buttrefles or
other Gothic features.
In Wilmington, Del., tliere is a fmall old ciiurch, much
praifed by Mr. White (Fig. 64). He finds the generous fide
porch particularly charming. Its pleafing lines are no doubt
fomewhat due to the foftening effects of time. This church
*This edifice will be illustrated in a future Part. — Ed.
i8
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
was erected by the Swedes in 1735. The flill older fo-called
'•Old Swedes Church"' in Philadelphia, built in 1700, is very
limilar, and there are others.^
Two civic buildings of New York City deferve fpecial
mention. They are the little Sub-Treafury Building on Wail
Street and its near and important relative, the City-hall.'
The latter is too well known to require many words (Plan,
K-2I5- 9"^
Fig. 6S. New York City-Hall, 1S03, J. McComb, Architect.
Fig. 65). Its architect is faid to have been John McComb
(i 763-1853) born in New York. He was an ardent admirer
of Sir \Vni. Chambers's, but was alfo influenced by the
brothers Adam. But feme wifli to credit this building to a
certain Mangin, an itinerant French draughtfman employed
by McComb. The work of conftru6tion lafled from 1803 to
1812. The entire cofl was not fully half a million dollars.
It is built of marble on three fides, and is, in execution, an
advance over earlier buildings in mechanical perfection as
well as in monumental defign. But even this ftruclure par-
takes of the Colonial card-board appearance. This building is
undoubtedly the fecond beft, largeft and the latt important pro-
duction of the period under confideration. It is a pity that its
flyle was to be fwamped by the Greek revival at a time when
it feemed flill to poffefs vitality. Its predeceffor on Wall
Street was a comparatively mean affair with the inevitable
cupola flraddling the roof-ridge.
The State-houfe, or the fo-called Independence Hall,'' at
Philadelphia, built in 1735, is, perhaps, from a fentimental
point-of-view, the moft important building that we poffefs
from Colonial times (Fig. 66). It has lately been reflored
to its condition in 1776 and prefents ftrong fouthern affini-
' This edifice will be illustrated in a future Patt. — Eds.
■■'LoNGSWAMP's Old Church. — The Longswaiiip Reformed Church
congregation, near Mertztown, Penn., of which the Rev. Nevin W. Hel-
frich, of Allentown, is pastor, celebrated its sesqui-centennial on New
Year's Day, 1899, with a special sermon by the pastor. , ■
As early as 1734 and 1735 settlers came from Oley into what is now
Longswamp township and took up land in the section around the
church. The valley was known among the Indians as Kittatinny Valley.
In 1748 Samuel Hurge and Joseph Uiery were selected a committee to
provide for the erection of a small log church.
In 1790 it was decided to begin the erection of the new church, and
then dissensions arose. The members divided into different factions,
each faction desiring the church built where its members thought best.
Pastor llertzel was a diplomat, and suggested that the old German way
of voting be used : each man to throw his hat where he desired the
church built, and wherever the most hats fell there it was to be built.
This was accepted, and on a certain day all the members gathered and
the great hat-throwing contest began. Hats fell in every direction. All
the hats were counted, and it was found that the western corner had the
most hats gathered on it, and there the church was erected in perfect
amity. The corner-stone was laid in 1791. The Ilelfrichs have been
pastors of this church for upward of 100 years. — Philadelphia Times.
•' Plates 30, and 34-37, Part II.
iIndkpknijknce 11m. l. — This hall was begun in 1729 and finished in
1734. There is some doubt as to the architect. Watson's "^«««A it/'
Philadelphia " (1844) holds that the hall was built by Dr. Kearsley, while
in Westcott's " Mansions cf Philadelphia " (1877) we find that the build-
ing committee was composed of Dr. Kearsley, Lawrence and Andrew
Hamilton, then speaker of the Provincial Assembly. The latter's plan
was finally adopted. The physician had dabbled in architecture l)efore
and is properly accredited with the designing of Christ Church, but it is
not known that the lawyer, Andrew Hamilton, had before interested him
self in such matters. Hamilton, supposed to be an illegitimate son of
Gov. Andrew Hamilton of Xew Jersey, was a very highly educated man,
ties, in having a wing on each fide, like Figure 6g, connected
with a lower portion, as well as in its general long low lines.
The details of the interior '^ are quite good and ClafTical ;
marred, however, by
fome bizarre at-
tempts at innova-
tion. Its architedt
was James (?) Ham-
ilton, alfo an ama-
teur architect, whofe
profeffional training
was that of a lawyer.
To the category
of public flruclures
mufl, alfo, be added
King's College Build,
ing, New York, Trin-
ity's fofter-child. In
1756, the truflees erefted this " lime-houle," 30' x 180', on the
Trinity land-grant, bounded by Church, Murray and Barclay
Streets and by the river, a fite defcribed as being " in the fub-
Fig. 66. Slate-house or Independence Hall, 1735,
Pliiladelphia, Pa. Andrew for James] Hamilton,
Arcliitect.
• ■ • ■ ■■ .. » f.
Fig. 67. Independence Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.
urbs." The defign was quite fevere, even factory-like, three
flories high on a low bafement. Four flight projections with
having finished his legal education at Gray's Inn, London. He was a
protege of William Penn's and later held several public offices, being
Attorney-General of the Province for nine years and, later, seven times
elected Speaker of the Assembly. He died August 4, 1741. Montgom-
ery Schuyler, however, in an article in ihe Architectural PecorJ (]3^n\i-
ary-March, 1895), ascribes the authorship to Andrew's son James, also
a lawyer and an amateur, but we feel that as between a son of twenty-
one years of age and a fatherof fifty-five the character of the design
itself is testimony in favor of the authorship belonging properly to
Andrew.
Although the hall was finished in 1734, it was not until 1750 that the
stair tower with its wooden steeple was ordered to be built. The lesser
age of the tower may be verified by investigation of the brick courses of
the tower and main structure, which do not align, and of the open joint
between the tower and building.
Independence Hall as we see it to-day, restored in 189S under the
supervision of T. Mellon Rogers, architect, is 107 feet long, 45 feet deep,
50 feet high, and from the ground to the top of the steeple is 160 feet.
The restoration is so complete and successful that the building as it
now stands is essentially the hall of 1776.
The East Room on the ground-floor was occupied by the Provincial
Assembly and the Second Continental Congress, and later by the Federal
Convention of 1787. The West Room, ground-floor, was used through
the Revolution by the Supreme Court of the Provinces.
The modern arch and Corinthian columns of the main entrance have
been replaced by plain, heavy oak doors, with a flat arch and fan-light
above. On the ground floor much of the original construction remained,
making the task of restoration comparatively easy. Here, too, were
found in the walls the original soot-blackened fireplaces. The restored
second floor is divided into three rooms, a long hall with a frontage of
100 feet on Chestnut Street, and two small rooms. The entrance-arch
to this hall is finely executed and Greek in character, as are the cornices
and mouldings of all three rooms. In the upper story, as in the lower,
the original fireplaces and tiles have been unwalled. — Ed.
6 Plates 23 ,24, 26 and 27, Part IV.
DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE: THE SOUTHERN PROVLXCES.
19
-^M
fteep pediments varied the front. Tlie windows and door-
ways were plain. The hipped roof was fiat on top, with a
baluftrade running all around it. An oftagonal cupola, the
(lock-in-trade with Colonial builders, fupported the famous
copper crown. This building was in ufe jult about one
hundred years.
Taverns have played an important part in New York's
hiftory. Tne old Dutch cuftom of difcuffmg all matters over
a pot feems to have continued far down into the feventeenth
century. The cum-
brous, and often dan-
gerous, iign-boards
were flriking features.
Bull's Head Tavern
is the one mofl fre-
quently illuftrated
(Fig. 68). The old
Fraunces Tavern flill
ftands on Broad and
Fig. 68. Old Bull's Head Tavem, New York City. „ , ^
The " Father of American Libraries," at Philadelphia, and
predeceffor of the prefent Ridgway Library, built its firff
home in 1790. It is a rather inlignificant, two-ftory ftruclure
with a low hipped roof. In the middle of the front are four
tall Ionic columns, with full entablature and pediment.
Only the cornice of this entablature continues around the
building.
The Capitol in the City of Wafliington was the mod im-
portant and largeft building undertaken, as was eminently
proper. In its defign and erection are involved feveral
names. Here, too, we meet with the amateur architecf.
Dr. William Thornton fubmitted in competition, 1793, the
moft acceptable plans. Thefe were revifed by Hallet, a
Frenchman. James Hoban, an Irishman, was fuperintendent
of conftruftion and for a time did fnme of the defigning. In
1795 George Hadfield, an Knglifh architect, was appointed.
In 1803 Latrobe became architect. In 1817 he was I'uc-
ceeded by Charles Bulfinch, the Borton architect, who com-
pleted the ftruclure in 1830. Its fize was 121' x 355'. The
dome meafured 120 feet to the top.
This now magnificent pile was a fitting dole of the Colo-
nial work and exemplified the best elements. Monumental,
maflive and well proportioned, it is a credit to the country
and to its defigners.
Although the fludy of the architecture of tlie Middle
Provinces has not been without intereft, it has on the whole
been rather unfatiffactory. Tiiere were too many and too
various elements. No unity could refult in l"o Ihort a time ;
no diftind ftyle was evolved ; few fingle new features, even,
were produced. All this was quite different in New Eng-
Fig. 69. Old Manor Il.iuse, Maryland.
land, as we have feen. So it was in the Old Dominion.
The peculiarities of a MalTachufetts or of a Virginia manfion
are fo marked as to be readily dilfinguiflied. But a houfe in
the Middle Colonies might as well have been built in FLng-
land, in Holland, in Germany, in .Sweden, or in fome otiier
part of Colonial America. Moreover, this fection has almoil
been overlooked by writers and invefligators, probably on
account of its comparative lack of interell.
Fig. 70. Plan of Brice House, Annapolis, Md.
THE SOUTHERN PROVINCES : DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE.
In the Southern Colonies, in the land of romance, we en-
counter many new elements. The ariftocratic cavaliers who
fettled there differed in much from the Puritans. Their
religion was that of the Church of England. Their (laves
were moflly black men, and were employed in the raifing of
tobacco, the flaple product. " Effentially a countryman
by preference, he [the cavalier planter] loved, above all
things, the comparative folitude of a great country home,
with its dependent village of fervants, farm-hands and me-
chanics, its fta-
bles full of En-
glish horfes, its
barns filled with ,,^,^,
high-bred cattle, ! R'Vi
and, beyond, its Y^
flourifliing fields
of tobacco and
grain."
Roads in this
country were mere bridle-paths. The traders were pedlers ;
the artifans were tinkers. Commerce was thought unbefit-
ting a gentleman. The foil was very fertile, fo that the plant-
ers were foon enabled to indulge in a lavinr hofpitality,
which, however, often proved ruinous. The uncertain value
of tobacco, which fluctuated from year to year, alfo tempted
to live above means.
Owing to the origin of many of the fettlers, fome of whom
were fons of prominent Englifli noblemen, there was from
the beginning inuch tafle and refinement. Thus the Virginia
gentry were the firft to introduce glafs for the lighting of
rooms. Comfortable and fubflantial houfes were built very
early. Perhaps the inherited defire of the Virginia fettler to
live in dignity and fplendor can bed explain his preference
for brick, in a country where wood was the moft natural
material, and where it was everywhere abundant. Many old
and lordly manors lie fcattered along the rivers, mute wit-
nelTes of pall glory.
The rivers were the only fafe and practicable highways.
For this reafon, and for purpofes of commerce, each planter
fought to have his own river-front, with a little dock to which
the fmall Dutch and New England velTels would come for
barter. The James River in Virginia, often fpoken of as
the "Claffic James," is the beft known. Some of the im-
portant manors along this river are: Shirley, built in 1700;
VVeftover, built in 1737 ; Carter's Grove Hall, Fig. 79, built
in the fame year; and Brandon, built in 1790. In Mary-
land is the Severn, at the mouth of which lies charming i\ji-
napolis. Others of fome note are Goofe Creek in South
Carolina, and Well River,
the York and the Poto-
mac in Virginia, all of
which, and many others,
ferved as highways of
travel.
Towns were few ; cities
almoft none. Jameflown,
the firft attempt at a fet-
tlement in Virginia, hadpig. 71.
a (hort life. Its few re-
maining ruins are now rapidly crumbling,
which fuperfeded it, never became important — it ftands to-
day, with a church and a court-houfe, almoil the identical
country town it was a hundred years ago.
Annapolis in Maryland is exceptional. Il is indeed fortu-
nate that fo complete and beautiful a little city as this has
been preferved. Confitlerate Progrefs left it to its Colonial
Ilarwood House, 1770, Annapolis, Md.
Williamsburg,
20
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Fig* 72. Pediment Window in Harwood House.
glory and built up Baltimore. The older Maryland town is
remarkable in many ways. Its (treats radiate from two cir-
cular plazas. Upon the larger of thefe were the buildings of
the State, upon the fmaller thofe of the Church — pivotal
points of focial or-
ganization. Bufinefs
blocks and tradef-
men's houfes were
confined by law with-
in a fixed quarter
near the dock. The
many fine refiden-
ces, fome clofe up to
the (treat, others fet-
ting back, were gen-
erally placed in large
gardens (loping
towards the river.
From iha upper
windows a fine view
was obtained down the terraces to the wooded brink. This
little "Queen Anne " city poffafled not only civic buildings,
churches and fchools, but alfo club-houfes, a theatre, and a
race-courfe. Its profperity began about 1750, and laftad only
down to the Revolution.
Log-houfes were built only at the very outfet. Here, too,
the puncheon floor was the firft improvement. Frame houfes
muft have been rare. Some are fpoken of, but none have
been found worthy of illultration. The Southerner, confider-
ing wood a poor building-material, did not difcovar the good
ufe to which clapboards and fhingles can be put. Bricks
feemed to him to be the only material to be employed in a
(tru6ture of any importance. Even minor (tructures, fervants'
quarters and out-buildings, fuch as barns (Fig. 82), and dove-
cotes (Fig. 79), were generally of brick. In the earlier days
the bricks were imported, flowed away as ballad in returning
fhips. This, however, was too flow and expenfive, and foon
they were burned on the fpot, good clay and fuel being
abundant.
Flemifh bond was mo(t commonly ufed by bricklayers. In
many inftances the
alternating bricks
were of a darker col-
or, fometimes even
glazed. The device
of laying all the
bricks headers, as
done in the Jennings
houfe, Annapolis, is
very unfatiffaclory,
the bond apparently
being weaker than
when all are laid
ftretchers.
There is marked
individuality in the
planning, on account
of the many fmaller
(tructures required
by the large eftates
with their hofts o f
dependants. In Maryland, the offices, fervants' quarters,
tool-houfes and the like, were built as flory-and-a-half wings
connected with the main part by one-ftory corridors (Figs.
69,70). In "Virginia, on tlie other hand, ifolation was pre-
ferred, and thefe fecondary (trudtures, though low, were often
two ftories in height. This praftice, however, was not with-
out exceptions.
Fig. 73. Rear Door, Tulip Hill, West R.ver, Md., 1750,
Fig. 74. :• Tulip Hill," West River, Md,
Generally the plans were fymmetrical — a wing on one
fide balanced by one on the other, with the entrance in the
middle. In
Virginia this
opened upon a
hall running
right through.
Shirley manor is
an exception,
and is faid to
have a French
mediaeval proto-
type. In this
building, 50' x
80', the hall is in
thenorthweftern
corner. Similar
planning was
quite common in
Annapolis, in
which place
many other
traces of French
influence are found. In the Chafe houfe, at Annapolis,
the rooms are arranged alfo upon a tranfverfe axis.
The plan being fymmetrical, it was only natural that a like
difpofition fliould be found in the fagade. In the Harwood
houfe, Annapolis (Fig. 71), the axis of the front is well
marked by the doorway of the firft ftory, by a fplendid win-
dow above and by a rich buU'f-eye in the attic. A detail of
this attic window is given in Figure 72. The flight proje6tion
of the middle part, with a pediment over, is common in An-
napolis. In this cafe, however, it is entirely unwarranted by
the interior arrangements.
Ornamental wall pilafters or femi-detached columns never
occur on thefe brick ftrudtures. The neareft approach to
them is found under porches, where they are ufed as re-
fponds to the free-flanding columns. Porches, however, are
rare: in the earlier buildings they were entirely wanting.
Some were added later, as the fettlers learned the exigencies
, - of the climate. The
*Y#^ * difpofition of the
columns is very
fimple, with little at-
tempt at variety. The
Annapolis porches
were, moflly, mere
little entrance ftoops;
often there were none
at all. Perhaps the
brick walls, from two
or three feet thick,
afforded an ampler
protection againft the
hot fun than did the
frame enclofures of
New England.
Two-ftory porches,
fuch as that in Figure
69, occur in fome in-
ftances. Gov. Bull
Pringle's manfion in South Carolina has a fomewhat fimilar
porch. Some few examples very like the chara<5teriftic Con-
necticut porches (Fig. 17) are alfo to be feen.
The buildings were rarely more than two ftories high, with
low, hipped roofs. Some of the earlier ftructures, as Weft-
over (built in 1737), had very Itaep roofs. In a few inftances
the end walls were carried up with a huge chimney rifing out
nOMESTJC ARCHITECTURE : THE SOUTHERN PROVINCES
2i
of the ridge. The gambrel roof was not ufed at all, and the
flat roof was exceptional. It was employed on the huge pile
of Rofewell, three (lories high and ninety feet square. The
conftrudtion of this manor and a too lavifh hofpitality in-
volved its owner in fo deep a
debt that his fon and succelTor
had to apply for permiffion to fell
a part of the eftate — the Englifh
law of entail being ftridtly ob-
The beft one of thefe is illuftrated in Figure 76. Hardly any
(ingle feature could be cited better to illurtrate the wealth
and tafte of its nabob owner. Thefe gates were of courfe
imported from England, all the handicrafts, efpecially in the
South, being ftill in their infancy.
Figure 77, illuftrating the tops
of two fence-pods at Weftover,
fhows the care and attention
given even to very fmall matters.
Many gardens, efpecially in
Annapolis, muft have been fplen-
did in their prime, laid out as
I
Pig. 73. From the Chase House, 1770,
Annapolis, Md.
ferved. Rofewell has fince been
(landing tenantlefs for a century,
no owner being wealthy enough
to keep it up.
T-i .. Fig. 76. Front Gate
Dormers were not very com-
mon, and were but little varied in defign. Baludrades were
never ufed upon the roof and occur rarely anywhere. The
roof covering was ordinarily of tin, ftanding-feam joint :
flates and (hingles were alfo fometimes ufed.
The entrances were treated, much as in the other colonies,
with a flanking order fupporting
a pediment. Over the door
there is ufually a tranfom, but
fide-lights are almod entirely
wanting. A rather ingenious
variation of the dull hood is
^^ given in Figure 73, from Mary-
L-^^rr~~%, land.
•^ Palladian windows were rare.
The fine example from the Chafe
houfe (Fig. 75), once before re-
ferred to, is quite
unique. O ther
windows are very
fimple, ufually
mere openings in
the wall with flat
brick arches above.
The two central
windows of the
liar wood h o u f e
(Fig. 71) are ex-
ceptionally elab-
orate. The wood-
work of the doors
Pig. 78. Carter's Hall, James River, Va. and windows, as in-
deed all the other wooden trim, was painted white fo as to
fet off againd the deep red of the bricks.
But little fpace can be devoted to the accelTories, fome of
which are quite elaborate and well dudied. Wellover, on the
James Uiver, poffeffes three beautiful wrought-iron gates.
Westover, Va.
Fig. 79. Pigeon-House, James River, Va.
fome of them were fuppofed to
be " after the Italian manner,"
with datuary, flirubbery, paths
and doping terraces. So, too, in
the lefs poetic matter of outbuild-
ings the charming dove-cote at Shirley (Fig. 79) fliows its
owner's careful confideration and preference for fubftantiality
in all things.
Here, as in New England, the halls were made into fump-
tuous features. That at Carter's Grove is twenty-eight feet
wide, or one-third of the entire floor-area. A fine arch, on
wall-columns, ufually divides the front part of the hall from
the rear, which contains the dairs. Thefe are in three runs,
the fteps broad and eafy, with three baluders, each different,
for every tread (Fig. 80). The rail ends in a fcroU at the
bottom, with the lad balluder, more elaborate than the others.
Pig. 77. Fence Posts, Westover, on
James River, Va.
Fig. 80. Slair Siring, Carter's Grove, Va., 173;.
fpirally carved (Fig. 84). Mahogany was ufed in the bed
examples.
The walls were wainfcoted in wood up to tiie ceilings in
large panels, though fometimes plader panels were ufed.
The ceilings were often decorated in delicate plader relief,
in a fomewhat rococo dyle. The cornice was of many
22
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
members, often with rich modillions. In the Chafe lioufe the
frieze is decorated with a fine Greel< wave motive.
From thefe cool, wind-fwept halls two views could be ob-
tained — in the one direction, down the terraces to the placid
river, in the other, up the rifing plantation to
the wooded hills beyond.
The Heps were in fome infbances of folid
show marked French influence, as in Figures 83, 90 and
91, which have very different merit in defign. Figure 90,
remarkably beautiful in itfelf, looks weak and inappropri-
ate as the bafe of an architrave.
Niches, common enough decorative
devices in Europe, occur rarely in
Colonial work. In the upper hall of
Fig. 81. Scott House,
I/:
1780, Annapolis, Md
Fig. 84. Stair Balustrade, Carter's Grove. Va.
Fig. 85. Westover, Va., 1737.
timbers projecting from the wall, each refting on the one be-
low. A fimilar device, borrowed from ftone confbruftion,
was ufed in one of the Colonial country houfes in New York
State (Fig. 86). One might reafonably expect lefs of light-
nefs and caprice, and more of folidity and formality in the
Fig. 82. Stable at Homewood, Nid., 1780.
details and finifh of a houfe with brick walls two or three feet
thick than in one with a fix or eight inch frame enclofure.
This expeftation is partly juflified. The mantelpieces, many
of them of white or variegated marble, were quite fimple and
_ ClafTic in defign, as may
%mmM
be feen in Figure 85,
a very beautiful piece of
work. Croifettes andegg-
and-dart mouldings feem
to have been the main
elements of defign ; fome
very elaborate rococo
mantels harmonizing well
with the other details of
the room, are found in
Annapolis. Slender,
graceful mantels in wood,
with a wealth of hand-
carved flutes and beads
are by no means wanting.
They are ufually, as in
Figure 87, further en-
riched by a putty decoration of delicate modelling. PiCl:ured
Du'ch tiles do not occur — the cavaliers did not come to
America by way of Holland.
The door and window trims are quite Claflical. Often they
Fig. 83. ]Joor-Iiead, Wliiteliall, Md.
the Chafe houfe are two which balance one another, at the
head of tiie flairs (Fig. 92). The niche was, however, com-
monly adapted to the ufeful purpofe of a cupboard (Fig.
93). Similar treatment with fliell carving occurred in New
England (Fig. 28).
SOUTHERN PUBLIC ARCHITECTURE: SECULAR BUILDINGS.
We have feen that few public buildings were required in
New England : (till fewer are to be found in the Southern
Colonies with their fmall and fparfe fettlements. Except-
ing the churches,
which are moftly
unpretentious
and common-
place, there are
hardly any pub-
lic flruftures to
be difcuffed.
The names of
fome defigners have been handed down, among which is
that of the illuflrious Wren. To him are attributed, with per-
haps fcant foundation in fact, the Court-houfe and the firlt
buildings for William and Mary College at Williamsburg,
Va. The Court houfe (Fig. 94) is a fimple little ftru6ture.
Fig. 86.
Wadsworth House, New Vorl<
State.
Cliase House, 1770, An-
napolis, Md.
Fig. 87. Cazanove, Alexandria, Va., about 1S06.
not unpleafing, though looking rather much like a fchool-
houfe, in fpite of, or perhaps rather in confequence of, the
indifpenfable cupola. The abfence of porch columns, which
feems to have been a part of the original defign, is very
(Iriking.
ECCLESIASTICAL ARCHITECTURE : THE SOUTHERN PROVINCES.
23
The State-houfe and St. John's College of Annapolis are to the Doric. He made a confcious and ftudious effort to
quite large and very fimilar. Each is unfortunate in its "do the proper thing" in the Italian RenailTance ftyle, in-
badly proportioned dome, which we would like to believe to eluding the laying-out of gardens with all manner of acceffo-
be later additions. In other refpefts they have the Colonial nes. But in fpite of this he did many queer things. One
Fig. 88. Mantel, Williamsburg, Va.
charadleriftics. The Cuftom-houfe at Charleflon, ,S. C. (Fifj.
95), is alfo a plealing ftruclure, well e.xprtffing its civic defti-
nation. It has hilloric interell from its ufe as a prifon during
the Revolution.
The verfatile Thomas Jefferfon is to be found alfo among
the defigners. As an amateur architect he may be faid to
have been unufually fucceffful. The Univerfity of Virginia,
of which he was both founder and architect, is his beft known
work. It is, perhaps, the firfl ftruclure in America in which
the dome was ufed
as an important
exterior and in-
terior feature
(Figs. 89, 96).
The buildings en-
i!i////////y/y/<w//////////.//m/.
Fig. 89. University of Virginia, Cliarlottesville, Va.
clofe three fides of a quadrangle 200' x 600'. They colt the
great fum of $300,000, an immenfe amount for thofe times.
The group exhibits, as do few, if any, contemporary Colonial
works, an appreciation of monumental planning in its lar<;e,
fimple and well-defined maffes. Much of it has lately been
rebuilt and added to by the architects McKiin, Mead & White.
of New York, fince the fire of 1894, which came near deftroy-
ing this very interefting composition.
Two domeftic ftruclures are afcribed to Jefferson : Farm-
ington and his own Monticello both tiear Charlotteville, Va.
^^^^^^^fA^fiiiiU i
Fig. 90. liase of Arctlilrave, Chase
House, .Annapolis, .Md.
l-i(r- 91. I!,i5e of .\rcliilr.i
UhiidLill, Va.
Theconflruction and the embellilhment of Monticello brought
him to bankruptcy during the hill days of his life.
Jefferfon had a preference for cololfal columns. He em-
ployed all of the five orders, but confined himfelf molUy
Fig. 92. From Crane House,
1770, Annapolis, Md.
Fig. 93. From Gunston Hall, Va., 1757.
Fig. 94.
Court. House, W'illiamsburg,Va., about 1700.
Sir C. Wren, Architect.
conceit was the ornamentation of the drawing-room frieze,
which confifled of ox fkulls, vafes, tomahawks, rofettes, war-
clubs, fcalping-knives and the like. Another was a combina-
tion of dumb-waiter and fireplace.
Jefferfon was a man of feme mechanical ingenuity, and he
invented many interefting and ufeful appliances. At the
Univerfity he at-
tempted to build a
brick wall four feet
high and only four
i nches, or one brick,
thick. To do this
and make it ftable,
he built it in a
waving line, fome-
what after the man-
ner of a fplit-rail
fence.
The capitol of
\'irginia at Richmond is alfo in a meafure due to Jeflfer-
fon's energies. The defign is by M. Clariffault, a French
architect confidered for his day " moft correct." The build-
ing meafures 70' x 134'.
But little that is new can be faid of the few churches which
remain and are illufl;rated. In all the public architecture
there was far lefs of individuality and of interefl than in pri-
vate work. Tradition tells that St. Luke's Church, Newport
Parilh, Va., was built in 1632, or even two years before the
Cr.idock houfe mentioned in the beginning of this paper.
But this is hardly credible, though it mull be very old. It is
30' X 50', with a tower 18 feet
fqnare, 50 feet high, without
offfets. It has coupled
pointed windows and but-
treffes. The doorway is
round arched. 'I'liere are
brick quoins on the angles.
This okl building has lately
been rellored.
St. Michael's Church, at
Charledon, S. C. [1752],
feems to have been one of
the largell and molt preten-
tious. It has li Doric portico
of four cololfal columns.
Its large W'renlike tower
is rather ungainly, tapering awkwardly, and infufficiently
crowned by a Ituinpy fpire. Its fize is 58' x 80', the fpire
192 feet high. It was built from defigns imported from Eng-
land. St. Phillip's, alfo of Charlelton, was built in 1733,
Fig. 95. Custom. House, 1752, Charleston,
S. C. From S. Michael's Church.
24
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
thus being fomewhat older, in fize , 62' x 74', but in many
other refpe(5ts fimilar.
All that remains of the ruined church in old Jameflown is
the bafe of tlie tower, now almoft overgrown with gnarled
trees, and looking difmal
and forlorn in the low
fwr.mps. It has been a
favorite fubjeft with the
hunter after the pi6tur-
efque.
On Goofe Creek, in
South Carolina, is another
inlerefting ruin ^ (Fig. 97).
The interior, ftill in a fair
condition, w'ith well-pre-
ferved frefcos, poiTeffes a
rather fine pulpit, refem-
bling fomewhat the one in King's Chapel, Bofton, previoufly
referred to.
The Williamsburg church, illuftrated in Figure 99, is a
large plain ftrufture. A travelling Englifliman defcribed it
one hundred years ago as an " indifferent church." He was
Fig. ^d. University of Virginia, iJ'i?, fliar-
lottesville, Va. T. Jefferson, Architect.
Fig. 97. St. James's Chnrcli, fjoose Creek, S. C, 1711.
right, but Time has foftened its hard lines, partly covered it
■with green, and otherwife tinted it with foft and mellow
tones from his varied palette.
The other Virginia churches, illuftrated in Bifhop Meade's
''■History" are all of llight intereft. The beft one is given
in Figure 98. The Southern gentry were not very churchy,
and it is hardly to be expefted that they would have left us
any remarkable
ftrudtures.
This fhort re-
view of Southern
Colonial work
may have ferved
to fliow that there
was in that fec-
tion much build-
ing activity. The
manors of the
planters have
been 1 e f s d i f-
turbed than have the houfes of the New England builders.
Progrefs, that friend and deftroyer in one, has paffed them by.
The South received a greater fet-back in the Revolution than
did the North. Then came the Civil War. It is only lately
that fome of the eftates are beginning to rally. A few have
been put in lliape ; fences have been rebuilt and the fields
Fig. 98. St. Jolin's Churcli, 1660-67, Hampton, Va.
Fig. 99. Clirist Cliurcli, Williamsburg, Va., 1678 or 1710.
once more bear harvefts. Others ftill lie defolate. From all,
the fpirit of the old cavaliers has fled as completely as has the
fpirit of Puritanifm from New England. But the South is
waking up and profperity, with its train of attendants, is
returning to the Old Dominion.
-:'^>^:i^-^^«^^t5<^
In this paper I have attempted to fketch the main char-
acteriftics of our Colonial architecture, the only national
ftyle as yet evolved in America. The material at hand has
not always been adequate. Several important topics have
been much neglected. 'I'he ftudy of public buildings is
efpecially unfatiffactory. Here feenis to be a field for
further inveftigation, though perhaps a rather unprofitable
one. The domeftic architefture is, after all, the beft, and in
fpite of the conftant reiteration that everything was imported
— ideas, defigns, materials, architedts and all — one can not
help feeling that there was fufficient of a new fpirit infufed
and enough of limiting conditions of new materials and needs
to produce marked individuality. Add to this the abfence
of many Old World features, fuch as Englifli quadrangular
planning and half-timbered houfes, and the difference becomes
ftill more noticeable.
1 Plate 6, I'art III.
It is hardly poffible to clofe this review without a few
words about the prefent revival of Colonial work. This
revival emphafizes the value and the refources of the ftyle,
and augurs well for the future. Our defigners, after having
wandered through many and dry places, have returned for
infpiration to the rich fountain of Claffic work. They have
not returned to fervility though, but to ufe the refources much
as did our Colonial builders, and to adapt their devices and
to invent new ones, fo as ftill better to fatiffy the require-
ments of beauty, utility and comfort.
But thinking of this revival we are reminded of the very
ftarting-point of this effay, and no better clofing words could
be found than thofe with which we began : —
" Men can with difficulty originate even in a new hemisphere."
Olof Z. Cervin.
The Verplanck Homestead, Fishkill, N. Y,
[Date, 1740.]
The Old Verplanck Homestead at FNMtill
Cincinnat
THE Verplanck homestead stands on the lands granted
by the VVappinger Indians, in 1683, to Gulian Ver-
planck and Francis Rombout, under a license given
by Governor Thomas Dongan, Commander-in-Chief
of the Province of New York, and confirmed, in 1685, by
letters-patent from the King, James II. The purchase in-
cluded " all that Tract or Par-
cell of land Scituate on the Eaft ^.a;'svJ® Csi^K_^.'.i^.' /)
fide of Hudfon's river, begin- •;
ning from the South fide of a
Creek called the frefh Kill and ■
by the Indians Matteawan, and
from thence Northward along
faid Hudfon's river five hun-
dred Rodd beyond the Great
Wap pin's Kill, and from
thence into the woods fouer
Houres goeing"; or, in our
speech, easterly sixteen Eng-
lish miles. There were eighty
five thousand acres in this grant, and tlie " Schedull or Per-
ticuler" of money and goods given to the natives, in ex-
change, by Francis Rumbout and Gulyne Ver Planke sounds
oddly to-day ;
One hundred Koyalls,
One hundred Pound Powder,
Two hundred fathom of white Wampum,
One hundred Uarrs of lead,
One hundred fathom of black Wampum,
Thirty tobacco boxes, ten holl adzes,
Thirty Ounns, twenty Blankets,
Forty fathom of DufiSls,
Twenty fathom of stroudwater Cloth,
Thirty Kittles, forty Hatchets,
Forty Homes, forty Shirts,
Forty pair gtockins.
Twelve coates of B. C,
Ten drawing Knives,
Forty earthen Juggs,
Forty Bottles, Fouer ankers Kum,
Forty Knives, ten halfe Vatts Beere,
Two hundred tobacco pipes.
Eighty pound tobacco.
The purchasers were also to pay Governor Dongan six
bushels of good and merchantable winter wheat every year.
The deed is recorded at Albany in Vol. 5 of the Book of
Patents.
Before 1685 Gulian Verplanck died, leaving minor chil-
dren, and settlements on his portion of tiie land were thus
postponed. Divisions of the estate were made in 1708, in
1722, and again in 1740. It is not accurately known when
the Homestead, the present low Dutch farm-house was built,
but we know that it stood where it now stands, before the
Revolutionary War, and the date commonly assigned to
the building is a little bsfore 1740.
The house stands on a bluff overlooking the Hudson,
about a mile and one-half north of Fishkill Landing. It is
one-story and one-half high, of stone, plastered. The gam-
brel-roof is shingled, descends low and has dormer windows.
The house has always been occupied and is in excellent
preservation. Baron Steuben chose it for his headquarters,
no doubt for its nearness to Washington's headquarters across
the river, and for the beauty
and charm of the situation.
It is made still further
famous by the fact that under
its roof was organized, in 1783,
the Society of the Cincinnati.
The room then used is on the
right of the hall, and is care-
fully preserved. In fancy we
can picture the assembly of
officers grouped about Wash-
ington, in that west room over-
looking the river, pledging
themselves to preserve the
memories of the years during which they had struggled for
their country's being.
The whole neighborhood, especially the village of Fish-
kill, which was the principal settlement in the county at that
date, has many Revolutionary associations. The interior
army route to Boston passed through the village; this was a
depot of army stores, and workshops and hospitals were es-
tablished. Here was forged the sword of Washington, now
in the keeping of the United States Government, and ex-
hibited in the late t'entennial collection. It is marked with
the maker's name, J. ]5ailey, Fishkill.
The New York Legislature, retiring before the approach
of the British, after the evacuation of the city, came at last
to Fishkill, and here the constitution of the State was
printed, in 1777, on the press of Samuel Loundon, the first
book, Lossing says, ever printed in the State.
. Hudson River, in which the Society of the
i ori::inated.
Mav 20, iSgg, there was unveiled with appro|)riate ceremonies a tablet
placed on this house by the Colonial Dames of the State of New York.
The inscription on this tablet reads : —
Mount CiILIan
Built about 1740 by
Cui.iAN Vkr Pi.anck
Grandson of Guman Vkk Planck
Who inJKCHASEi) THF, Adjacknt Land
From tiif, Wapi'Inh'.fr Indians in 16H3.
Hkaimjuariers of Baron Von Steui!1-;n
Thk Society of the Cincinnati was
Instituted here May, 1783.
Placed iiv the Colonial Dames
OF THE State of New Vokk
MDCCCXCIX
VirTUIE MA.IORfM FILI.-F, CONSERVANT.
2S
26
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Some years after peace was restored, the Verplanck family
appear to have occupied the Homestead from time to time.
Philip Verplanck, a grandson of Gulian, the original grantee,
was a native of the Patent, but his public life was spent else-
where. He was an engineer and surveyor, and an able man.
Verplanck's Point in Westchester County, where Fort La-
fayette stood during the Revolution, was named for him, and
he represented that Manor in the Colonial Assembly from
1734 to 1768. Finally, Daniel Crommelin Verplanck with
his large family — one of his sons being the well-known
Gulian C. Verplanck, born here in 1786 — came to live in
the old home permanentl)'. He had led an active life in
New York, served in Congress and on the bench, and now
retired to the quiet of the country. It was he who planted
the fine old trees which now shade the lawn ; among them
the coffee-tree so much admired. About 1810 the north end,
built of wood, was added to the old house. Architects were
not numerous, apparently, in those days, so the Dutch type
was lost in making this large addition, though the interior is
quaint, dignified and interesting. It was from under its roof
that Daniel C. Verplanck was carried to his last resting-
place as his father before him, and generations after him
lived and still live in the old Homestead.
For the above description, prepared with no little pains-
taking, of an interesting house and demesne, as well as for
the loan of the photograph from which I made my pen-and-
ink sketch of it, I am wholly indebted to a member of the
Verplanck family and a mutual friend. A. J. Bloor.
The Roof of the Old South Meeting-House, Boston/
[Date, 1729.]
AS an example of American carpentry of one hundred
and fifty years ago, the roof of the " Old South " in
Boston merits a passing notice. Having had re-
cent occasion [1876] to examine the building, the
accompanying drawing of the roof' was made ; and as a mat-
ter of record, as being a curious example of early colonial
work which would be generally interesting, and as an ex-
ample to others to detail any quaint bit of work falling
within their observation, I herewith register a few facts in
regard to it.
The roof of the building (which is some 65' x 95') is sup-
ported by six trusses spaced at about equal distances from
each other, but the last truss somewhat farther from the rear
wall, in order to avoid too steep a pitch from it to that wall.
The workmanship is quite primitive and rude, most of the
timber being hewn sticks ; and the sapwood at the angles is
in many instances
affected by dry-rot, A^
or, in common par-
lance, is " powder-
posted."
The trusses are
much sprung and dis-
torted, both horizon-
tally and laterally —
variously in different
trusses; but, from a consideration of some defects common
to them all, their story may be guessed with a considerable
degree of accuracy. The execution of the roof indicates ship-
builders' work; and, in the days when the division of labor
had not reached its present development, it is more than
probable that men who had served their seven years in the
yards of the "Old Country" had a hand in the work. The
first step in the construction, which occurred to the builders,
was evidently a pair of rafters A A, a tie-beam 15, and a king-
post C, to support the centre of the tie-beam at its point of
splicing.
The tie-beam, by the way, is cambered about two and a
half feet, nearly following the line of the plastered ceiling
' From the Anu'rican Architect for October 7, 1876.
2 Mate 15, Part IV.
hung to it below. Had the tie-beam and ceiling been built
level in the first instance, they would evidently have later
shared the misfortunes of the principals, and have now been
convex instead of concave. Having proceeded thus far in
the design for their roof, they next bethought them that the
rafters A A, some forty feet in length, without intermediate
support, would not be sufficiently stiff to carry the roofing.
Now, instead of proceeding to erect struts from the foot of
the king-post C, to the principals A A, at about right angles
to the latter, and from their points of contact to drop tension-
pieces to the tie-beam, and from their feet to erect other
struts similar to the first — thus forming a perfectly rigid
frame, and obtaining intermediate points of support for each
rafter — they let loose the incipient Yankee ingenuity which
the east winds were even then infusing into their minds, and,
following the bent of a shipbuilder's mind, took another
course.
They procured stout hewn oak beams, D D, and by some
means best known to themselves — either by the coaxing of
steaming, or the coercion of pulleys and tackle — formed
of them arches ; their feet stepped into the tie-beam near the
walls, and the other ends keyed in position by wedges passed
through a mortise in the king-post. Now they had con-
structed, within their truss, a sort of bowstring gi.'der, upon
which they founded their hopes of supporting the principals
A A by means of the blocking, or struts, E E.
Having added the suspension pieces F F, they rested from
their labors, and rejoiced in their work. Their future fame,
however, was not secure ; for the shrinkage of the timber,
probably aided and abetted by some " old-fashioned New
England snow-storms," of which we hear so much, caused tiie
roof gradually to assume the form indicated by the dotted
lines; and the natural remedy against further misplacement
in that direction was the introduction of the small oak struts
G G, about 3" x 5", which are merely notched in their thick-
ness (3") from one side of king-post and arched beams ; show-
ing clearly an after-thought, especially as they do not coincide
in size with any of the other timbers, and are not tenoned or
pinned. Then the tenons of some of the suspension pieces
F broke off short; and stirrup-irons were added to make
them secure.
THE ROOF OF THE OLD SOUTH MEETING-HOUSE, BOSTON.
27
The old roof was double-boarded, and so remains to-day •,
but at some comparatively recent period, to correct its ex-
tremely crooked condition, a new roofing was superposed
upon the old, blocked up so as to make the surface true, and
slated, the old covering, whether shingles or slates, being
previously removed.
The ironwork is all very primitive in design and make, and
speaks eloquently of the '' village blacksmith," when his forge
was perhaps on Park Street.
Such is something of the yarn the old roof spins ; and, if
the civil engineer was in those colonial days " abroad," the
schoolmaster was undoubtedly in his company, as some of
the appended inscriptions chalked on the old rafters would
indicate: —
Homer
April 6, 1774.
1762 February 9
A New Rope for the Bell.
19 POUND AND A HALF.
A NoTHER Bell Rope
October 12, 1767.
A NoTHKR Bell Rope
August the I, 1770.
It wad 20 POUND AND A HALF.
Thos. Uruce, Repeared the Sleating
May the ist 1809.
Edward Russell gilded
THE P'ane Ball & Diols
Feb. 1S28.
William Gibbons Preston.
-^^>ii?^i^^0V^:7^i^
In the summer of 1899, owing to further deterioration of
the roof-timbers and to the feeling that the building was at too
much risk from fire, the old roof was replaced with one more
fireproof, and Mr. Edward Atkinson has procured the accom-
panying view of the
old framing, partly
uncovered and still
in place.
Such an operation
as this upon such a
building excited re-
newed archjEologi-
cal interest in the
building, one result
of which was a letter
from Mr. Abram
English Brown to
the Boston Tran-
script, from which
we extract that por-
tion which relates
to the identifying of
the till-now-un-
known builder of
the structure.
" The well-known
historian Hamilton
A. Hill, in his his-
tory of the Old
South Church, has
omitted but little.
Yet this one fact he
has failed to record,
and in fact it has
been hidden from
all until a recent
date, when an old
diary was brought
to light which re-
veals enough to set-
tle the question so
often asked.
"On a yellow
page of this diary
is the following:
' 1729, Aprell the
ist. I with others layed the foundation of the South Brick
meeting houfe and finilhed the Brickwork ye 8th of October,
following.' On the title-page of this journal is read, ' 1722.
Jofhua Blanchard — His Book.' The conclusion is that
The " Old South," Boslon, May, 1891) 1 showing original roof in process of demolition.
Joshua Blanchard laid the corner-stone and built the meet-
ing-house. At that time it was customary for builders and
men of prominence in an enterprise to place their initials
upon corner-stones. This proved the key of the solution.
Mr. Hill says:
'There is on the east
side of the corner-
stone "L. B. 1729,"
but I am not able to
explain it.' He ac-
counted for all else
that had been dis-
covered on other
stones of the house.
A closer inspection
of the unexplained
inscription devel-
oped the so-called
letter ' L ' into an
'I,' the lip of the
'L ' proving to be
a groove or defect
in the stone, wliich,
when covered from
sight, leaves a per-
fect letter 'I.' As
is well known, I and
J were but one
character in Latin ;
and in our Colonial
literature were con-
t i n u a 1 1 y inter-
chanjied. It would
thus seem that it
had been demon-
strated in two ways
tiiat Joshua ]')lanch-
ard built these his-
toric walls.
' A study of the
records of the town
of Boston leads us
to conclude that
the same man was
master-builder of
Fanouil Hall. It is
been so, for Joshua
natural enough that it should have
Blanchard and Peter Faneuil were flourishing at the one
time. It appears that soon after Peter Faneuil, the old
Huguenot merchant, offered the gift of a market, the selectmen
28
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
held a meeting of importance. ' Prefent the Hon. John Jef-
fries, Elq.. Caleb Lyman. Kfq., Mr. Clark, Thomas Hutchin-
fon, Efq., and Mr. Cooke. Mr. Jofluia Blanchard prefented
a plan from Peter Faneuil Efq., of a Houfe for a market to
be built on Dock Square (agreeable to his Propofal to the
town at their meeting on Monday, the 14th of July laft, and
then votes thereon) Defiring the Selectmen would lay out
the Ground in order to begin the foundation. The Select-
men accordingly met, went on the place in order to view the
Same, Mark'd and Ifak'd out a Piece of ground for that ufe,
meafuring in length from the lower or Eafterly end, pointing
the warehoufe in Merchants' Row one hundred feet, and in
bredth forty feet, which leaves a palTageway of thirty feet
wide between the Town's Shops and the market houfe to be
built.'
"It later appears that when Faneuil Hall was completed
Joshua Blanchard, acting for Peter Faneuil, presented the
keys to the authorities of the town. The walls of Faneuil
Hall bear added testimony to the faithful workmanship of
Joshua Blanchard. They stood uninjured through the earth-
quake of 1756, and also through the fire of 1761, when all else
of the noble structure was reduced to ashes. And, in fact,
after all the changes that have taken place in that building
for the century and a half of its existence. One of the side-
walks stands today as it was erected by Joshua Blanchard,
an employee of Peter Faneuil, and the foundation-stones of
the opposite side as it then was are the supports for some
of the important pillars of the present [1899] re-building.
The records of Boston further show that Joshua Blanchard
was a popular mason of his time. There is little doubt that
he was the builder who erected the Old Brick Meeting-House
that stood near the old State-House, and in which many
famous meetings were held during the Revolutionary Period.
"The work of the Old South and Faneuil Hall would seem
a sufficient monument to the memory of this builder of Pro-
vincial Boston, but if one turns into Granary Burying-Ground
and carefully examines the street corner near the Tremont
Building, he will see a slab on the green sward on which we
may read " No. 73. Joshua Blanchard. A Mason," and can
but conclude that the ashes enclosed in that vault are all that
remains cf the faithful master-mason who built the walls of
Old South Meeting-House and Faneuil Hall."
<L^
^p\S>
Colonial Work in the Virginia Borderland.
AMONG the houses of which I intend to speak, a
number will be found to date back to the time
when we were a Colony of Great Britain, while
others have been erected since our independence.
The term Old Colonial is applied to a certain style of
work, a free, and in many instances a refined, treatment
of Classical details rather than to any fixed period. This
work was, without doubt, infuenced by English publications
during the eighteenth century, by those of James Gibbs
(1728) and others. In an old warehouse which has been
recently torn down in Alexandria, Va , four old books were
found and presented to me, filled with plates of doors,
cornices, mantels, etc., one by Langley (1739), another by
Wm. Pain (1794); of the others the titles were lost. These
English works show clearly whence the carpenters and build-
ers of the day received their inspiration. The date of the
erection of Old Colonial buildings ranges from early in
the eighteenth to early in the nineteenth century, and from
my examination of books and actual examples I should say
that very little so-called Colonial work was done later than
18 1 5. Such houses are rapidly passing away, being torn
down to make place for improvements, or destroyed by van-
dalism, decay and fire. Houses of this character are found
in Virginia, on the Ciiesapeake Bay and its tributaries, the
Potomac, York and James rivers, and the country lying
between them. In Maryland, likewise, the wealthy and
fashionable of early times built near or on the same bay
and its inlets.
Examples, as I propose to give them, are not arranged in
chronological order, but are illustrated simply as I have
found it most convenient to make the necessary sketches,
measurements, researches or inquiries.
The house, of which certain details are shown in Plate 10,
Part I, was erected by a Mr. Cathcart some time between
1800 and 1810, if not before. The only facts obtainable are
from the oldest residents, who remember it from their earliest
childhood, one or two of them being about eighty years of
age. After passing through several hands, it was bought by
the Episcopal Theological Seminary in 1835. Although
there is nothing of historical interest attached to it, the archi-
tectural features are peculiarly refined in effect and very elab-
orate in detail. All the doors and windows are trimmed in
the same manner as the door illustrated by the plate. Every
figure in low relief is different from the others, and in this
one room there are as many as thirty of them, each, evi-
dently, intended to have a pleasing suggestion, as they
represent Abundance, Sowing, Reaping, Pleasure, Religion,
etc. The enriched mouldings have each member separately
modelled, and this is the same with the friezes around the
room and over the doors and windows, each leaf and tendril
being different, as if the plastic material of which they are
made were modelled in place. The building is now the
residence of Mr. L. M. Blackford, principal of the Episcopal
High School, and is situated about twelve miles from Wash-
ington and three from the Potomac River.
%.^
THE OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON, D. C.
[D.-ite, iSoo.l
Bishop Mead, in his " Old Churches, Alinisters and Families
of Virginia" tells us that William Tayloe emigrated from
London to Virginia in 1650. John Tayloe, his son, who was
a member of the House of Burgesses, founded the noted
THE OCTAGON HOUSE, WASHINGTON, D. C.
29
estate of Mount Airy, Virginia. He had twelve children, one
of whom, Col. John Tayloe, built the old Octagon House.
The Tayloes intermarried with the Corbins, the Lees, the
Washingtons, the Carters, the Pages, and nearly every other
prominent family of Virginia. The mother ot Col. John
Tayloe, of the Octagon, was a daughter of Governor Plater,
of Maryland, and his wife was Anne, daughter of Benjamin
Ogle, Governor of Maryland.
For those days, Col. John Tayloe (commissioned by
Washington in the Revolution) was a very wealthy man,
having at the age of twenty an income of nearly sixty thou-
sand dollars a year, and when the Octagon was built he had
an income of seventy-five thousand a year. His eldest
son, John, was in the Navy, and was distinguished in the
battles of the " Constitution" with the " Gutrriere," and with
the " Cyane" and the ''Lmant."
The memoirs of Benjamin Ogle Tayloe state that Colonel
Tayloe was an intimate friend of General Washington, and it
was on the advice of the General that the Octagon was built
in Washington City, Colonel Tayloe having previously de-
termined to build his winter residence in Philadelphia.
The house was commenced in 1798 and was completed in
1800. During the process of erection. General Washington
visited this building, as he took a lively interest in it, being
the home of his friend and one of the most superior resi-
dences in the country at the time. After the war of 1812,
the British having burned the White House, James Madison
occupied the Octagon for some time and during his occu-
pancy the Treaty of Ghent between the United States and
Great Britain was signed by him in February, 1815, in the
circular room over the vestibule, shown on the plan in Plate
17, Part III.
At this period Colonel Tayloe was distinguished for the
unrivalled splendor of his household and equipages, and his
establishment was renowned throughout the country for its
entertainments, which were given in a most generous man
ner to all persons of distinction who visited Washington in
those days, both citizens and foreigners. In this list would
be included such names as Jefferson (Washington had passed
away before its completion) , Madison, Monroe, J. Q. Adams,
Decatur, Porter, Webster, Clay, Calhoun, Randolph, Lafay-
ette, Steuben and Sir Edward Thornton, British Minister
and father of the recent British Minister, and many others of
less distinction than the ones named. Colonel Tayloe died
in 1828 and his death to a certain e.xtent terminated the
splendid hospitalities of the Octagon, which had covered a
period of nearly thirty years.
This house is well built of brick, trimmed with Aquia Creek
sandstone. The lot is triangular in form and still partly
fenced in by a high brick wall. The kitchen, stable and out-
houses are built of brick, for the accommodation of servants
and horses, Colonel Tayloe being a noted turfman and keep-
ing many fine running horses. The building and walls con-
form exactly to the street lines, showing that the streets were
accurately laid out even at that early day. The interior is
elaborately finished, the doors and shutters being of mahog-
any and all still in an excellent state of preservation. All the
work in the circular vestibule coincides with the circumfer-
ence of the tower, the doors, sashes and glass being made on
the circle, and all are still in working order. The parlor
mantel, illustrated on Plate 12, Part III, is made of a fine
cement composition and is painted white. The remains of
gold-leaf show on some of the relieved portions. The figures
are excellent, evidently having been modelled by some good
artist. The mantel in the bedroom is of wood ; the orna-
mentation being putty stucco. From the work of Bielefeld on
papier-mache', I learn that the different materials for making
the plastic ornaments at that date were putty, commonly used
on mantels or flat work, where they were not carved in the
wood (this is the materia! with which most of our Colonial
work is ornamented), papier-mache, carton-pierre, cement and
plaster. Carton-pierre was a composition of whiting, oil and
paper, and was hard and easily polished, and I am inclined
to the opinion that the parlor and dining-room manteP in
the Tayloe House is of this material. The oldest cabinet-
makers, and I have interviewed many of them in this section
of the country, are entirely ignorant as to the method or
composition of such ornaments, and books, with the excep-
tion of the one men-
tioned above, seems
to have ignored the
subject. Leading
into the back hall
^^^ and dining-room are
two secret doors, in
which the wash-
boards, chair-boards,
etc., run across the door, being ingeniously cut some distance
from the actual door, no keyholes, hinges or openings show-
ing on the blind side. The knobs and shutter-buttons are of
brass. The roof has three rather peculiar trusses of the
shape shown in the diagram, they and all timbers visible be-
ing hewn. Two old cast-iron wood-stoves still stand in the
niches prepared for them in the vestibule.
Dr. William Thornton was the architect.
■ ^30-
Truss in Roof of Octagon.
r--.^^
THE BRADDOCK HOUSE, ALEXANDRIA, VA.
[Date, .752-1S25.]
This building is interesting, as different portions of ir
were built at three distinct dates, 1752, 1815, 1852. The
first built was the mansion of John Carlyle, who was one of
the board of trustees in the incorporation of Alexandria,
1749. A description in the Lodge of Washington tells us
that: "The surroundings of this structure have greatly
changed since 1752. Then, a beautiful lawn extended sev-
enty-five feet to Fairfax Street on its west front, and on
the east side the grounds reached to the Potomac River,
a distance of about two hundred yards, and across what
are now Lee and Union Streets. Now, 1875 [same 1887]
the old house is hidden from view, except on the east
side, by the Mansion House Hotel," now called the Brad-
dock House. The house has undergone many changes.
The old staircase has been remodelled, all the rooms on the
first and second stories, except what is called the Council-
room, have been altered. All the doors and sashes have
been replaced by new ones, except in the attic.
In what is called the Council-room the following bit of
history transpired: "The British Government, having de-
termined to drive out the French and to destroy the power
of the Indians, sent over in two ships of war under Admiral
Keppel, who commanded the Meet, two crack regiments of
the line [the 44th and 48th foot], the 44th commanded by
Sir Peter Ilalket, the 48th by Colonel Dunbar.
" These ships arrived at Alexandria late in the month of
February, 1755, while the troops remained in encampment
until late in April, and were joined by troops from the
various Colonies, including two companies of rangers from
Alexandria and its neighborhood. On the 14th of April,
General liraddock, with Admiral Keppel, held a council
with the executive of Virginia, Governor Dinwiddle ; Mary-
land sent Governor Sharpe ; Massachusetts sent Governor
' The dates upon these mantels show that whatever may have been
the date of the building they at least were made in London in I7QQ.—
Ed.
30
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Shirley; New York sent Governor De Lancey ; and Pennsyl-
vania sent Governor Morris. Washington was summoned
from Mount Vernon, and was presented to the council with
great formality. By his dignified deportment and great good
sense, he made a fine impression, Governor Shirley character-
izing him as a model gentleman and statesman."
The Council-room, with the exception of doors and sashes,
is apparently intact. The walls are all panelled, and all the
ornamental work is carved in wood. In some places where
the paint has been rubbed off the wood is shown to be hard
southern pine. All the panels e.xcept one are perfect, —
neither shrunken nor split. I have illustrated the panelling,
cornice, doorway, mantel, etc., from the Council-room.'
Braddock was a guest of John Carlyle before his disastrous
failure and death in the West. Mr. William Herbert, who
married Carlyle's daughter between 1800 and 181 5, built a
banking-house on the northwest corner of the Carlyle yard
for the Alexandria Bank, of which he was president from
1798 to 1818, when he died. The funds of the bank were
deposited in the vaults of the Carlyle mansion during its
erection. Tlie vaults still remain.
I have also illustrated a mantel and doorway from this
bank.
In 1852 the structure was completed as it now stands, by
connecting the old buildings and cutting the Carlyle man-
sion off from the street, and adding two or three stories to
the bank, and used as a hotel under the name of Green's
Mansion House. The latter part of the building has nothing
of interest attaching to it.
During the late Civil War the building was occupied by
the United States Government as a hospital, and is now used
as a hotel under the name of the Braddock House.
■iss^
f
\
GADSHV'S TAVERN, ALEXANDRIA, VA.
[Date, J 793.]
In tliis building are found many items of inter-
est, both from an architectural and a historical
standpoint. It was erected in 1793, when Alex-
andria was a flourishing town, probably one of
the most prosperous in the country. It was built
by John Wise, a noted tavern-keeper in those
days. The announcement of the opening of this
hotel may still be seen in a Virginia Gazette oi
1793." Here the most prominent people of the
day were feasted and feted. In 1796 a banquet
was given there by the Alexandria Washington
Lodge of Masons. It was also a favorite place
for assemblies, or balls, as we should call them
now. A book called " Tlie Lodge of Washington "
tells us that at a ball given at the Gadsby Tavern
ary, i 798, Washington parti-
A i.esser Light cipated, by his presence, in celebrating his own
of Washingioii , . . , . . ^ , . .
Loctee: used at birthday. A portion of the nnisician s gallery in
the I'uneral of ,, . , ,, . , • tm -.^
George Wash- Ihis ball-room IS shown 111 Plate 9, Part I. This
ingion. gallery is not supported by posts from the floor,
where they would interfere with the dancers, but is bung from
the ceiling.
Alexandria was probably the first place to celebrate
Washington's birthday. The ceremonies usually consisted
of a parade by the military, and a birthnight ball. Assem-
blies were given regularly by the Washington Society of
Alexandria, "attended by the beauty and fashion of the
J Plate 18, i'art III. '
^ dlStick. ^ ' on t'lc 2 2d of Febru
Managers.
town." The following autograph letter is still preserved in
the Lodge rooms:
Mount Vkrnon, 12 Nov., 1799.
Gentlemen:
Mrs. Wartiington and I have been honored with your
polite invitation to the affemblies in Alexandria this winter,
thank you for this mark of your attention. But alas! our
dancing days are no more. We with, however, all thofe
who relifh fo agreeable and innocent an amufement all the
pleafure the feafon will afford tiiem.
Your moft obedient and obliged humble fervant.
Go. Washington.
Geo. Deneale ]
William Newton |
Robert Young
Chas. Alexander
James H. Hooe j
The rooms where the Alexandria Assemblies held their
meetings are now a part of what is known as the City Hotel,
and they were built some years before the portion known as
Gadsby's Tavern, probably about 1780. Tiie interior door-
way shown on the plate is taken from this portion of the
building.
I quote the following bit of history in connection with this
hotel from the "Recollections of Washington" by G. W. P.
Custis:
" It was in November of the last days, that the General
visited Alexandria upon business and dined with a few
friends at the City Hotel. Gadsby, the most accomplished of
hosts, requested the General's orders for dinner, promising
that there was a good store of canvas-back ducks in the
larder. 'Very good. Sir,' replied the chief, 'give us some of
them with a chafing-dish, some hominy, and a bottle of good
madeira, and we shall not complain.'
"No sooner was it known in town that the General would
stay to dinner than
the cry was for the
parade of a new com-
pany called the In-
dependent Blues,
commanded by Capt.
Piercy, an officer of
the Revolution. The
merchant closed his
books, the mechanic
laid by his tools, the
drum and fife went
merrily round, and in
the least possible time
the Blues had fallen
into their ranks and
were in full march for
headquarters.
" Meanwhile the
General had dined
and given his only
toast, ' All our
friends,' and finished
his last glass of wine,
when an officer of the
Blues was introduced who requested, in the name of Capt.
Piercy, that the Commander-in-chief would do the Blues the
Chair in Washington Lodge, Alexandria, Va., used by
Ceo. W.ishingion when Worthy Master, 17S8-1789.
2 Advertisement from the Virginia Gazette and Commercial AJvertiser.
" City Tavern.
" Sign of the Bunch of Grapes.
"Tlie Subscriber informs his customers * * * that he has removed
* * * to his new and elegant three story brick house, * * * which was
built for a tavern and has twenty commodious and well-furnished rooms
in it. where he has laid in a large stock of good old liquors and hopes he
will be able to give satisfaction to all who will favor him with their cus-
tom- John Wise.
"Alexandria, Va., February 6, 1793."
GADSBY'S TAVERN, ALEXANDRIA, VA.
31
honor to witness a parade of the corps. The General con-
sented and repaired to the door of the hotel looking toward
the public square, accompanied by Colonel Fitzgerald, Dr.
Craik, and Mr. Herbert, and several other gentlemen. [This
doorway was removed a few years ago from its original posi-
tion and put up at a back entrance. See plate.] The troop
went through many evolutions with great spirit and con-
cluded by firing several volleys. When the parade was
ended the General ordered the author of these recollections
to go to Captain Piercy and ex-
press to him the graiitication which
he, the General, experienced, in the
very correct and soldierly evolu-
tions, marchings, and firings of the
Independent Blues. Such com-
, , „ ., _, mendation from such a source, it
A Key of the Bastile presented to '
Washington Lodge by Lafayette, may well be Supposed, was received
1825, weighed 5 lbs. -; 11 J r 1 ^ 1 .1
With no small delight by the young
soldiers, who marched off in fine spirits, and were soon after-
wards dismissed. This was the last military order issued in
person by the father of his country." The ne.vt historical
event of interest connected with this house was the banquet
to Lafayette by the citizens of Alexandria on his visit to
this country in October, 1824. On his visit he brought his
son, Geo. Washington Lafayette, with him. He was met by
a long procession of citizens, old soldiers carrying old artil-
lery and relics of Washington and the Revolution, all fully
described in xk\e. Alexandria Gazette of Oct. ig, 1824. Robert
E. Lee, then a boy, was a inarshal in this procession. The
The hotel's name was changed for the third time, at this date
being called Claggett's Tavern, from its host. "About 5
o'clock the General [Lafayette] attended the public dinner at
Claggett's Tavern, at which were present many distinguished
gentlemen, among others the Hon. John Quincy Adams, Sec-
retary of State, Commodores Rodgers and I^orter, General
Macomb, Colonels Peyton and Harvie of the Yorktown Com-
mittee, and several others." Ainong thirty toasts the first
was " The memory of our late illustrious neighbor and fellow-
citizen, Geo. Washington." On the 2 ist of February, 1825,
the Lodge of Washington gave Lafayette a Masonic banquet
at this hotel. The members present, the songs they sanc',
the toasts they drank, the speeches they made, are all re-
corded in the Lodge of Washington. Lafayette's toast was,
"Greece, let us help each other."
To about 1877 this building was used as a hotel, under the
name of the City Hotel. Later it was used as an auction-
house and storage-warehouse. I am indebted to the records
of Alexandria Washington Lodge No. 22, for many of the
facts mentioned as well as the privilege of making the
sketches of relics of Washington. Glenn Brown.
The Seventh-Day Baptist Church at Newport, R. I.
THIS venerable edifice, for many years the place of
worship of the Seventh-Day Baptist Society in
Newport, some years ago passed by purchase into
the hands of the Newport Historical Society, and
is now occupied by that body as its cabinet and meeting-
room. After long disuse, the building was re-opened to tiie
public, with appropriate ceremonies, on the evening of No-
vember 10, 1884.
The church, when purchased by the Historical Society
was found to be rapidly falling to decay, through long neg-
lect and the action of the elements. A most thorough res-
toration became necessary, in the course of which portions
of the work were entirely replaced with new, the character
and ancient detail being scrupulously adhered to.
The Seventh-Day Baptist meeting-house, or churcii, as it
is more generally styled, has a history of over one hundred
and fifty years, having been erected in 1729. It demands
more than a passing notice from the student of Colonial
architecture for its venerable and sacred associations. Its
structural and decorative features are thoroughly in unison
with the best building practice of the second period of
Colonial architecture, and are siiown in detail on Plate 20,
Part I and the accompanying sketches made in the ciiurch
itself, previous to its restoration.
In the year 1678, Samuel Hubbard, one of the seven
founders of the Sabbatarian Society in Newport, wrote to a
friend in Jamaica, saying, "Our numbers here are twenty; at
Westerly, seven ; and at New London, ten." From the
diary of the same Samuel Hubbard we learn that the churcli
was organized in 1671. The Society always claimed to be
the oldest Sabbatarian and the fifth Baptist church in America.
The first pastor was William Hiscox, who died May 24, 1704,
in the sixty-sixth year of his age. Joseph Maxon was chosen
to fill the office of travelling ])reacher for Westerly in Septem-
ber, 1732, and in October of the same year he was made
pastor of both the Newport and Westerly churches. The-
Newport church, previous to the Revolution, maintained a
strong and stirring organization: among its members were
men reputable for their talents, learning and ability, and
holding iionored stations in public affairs. The war scat-
tered the congregation, and the church never recovered its
former prestige. Henry Burdick wa'-, ordained pastor, De-
cember 10, 1807. In 1808 the membership was reduced to
ninety, and in 1809 to eighty-seven. The last pastor was
Lucius Crandall. The records of the church terminate in
1839, and the last sacred services were held in that year.
The sole surviving member of the Society living when the
church passed out of the hands of the Sabbatarian trustees
was Mrs. Mary Green Alger, who died on the nth of Octo
ber, 1884, at the age of ninet}'-tliree years, nine months and
nine days, just one month previous to the dedication by the
Historical Society. The church in the town of Westerly
grew and prospered, and is still in a flourishing condition.
Under the lilieral Chaiter and Constitution of Rhode Island,
the towns of Westerly and Hopkinton have always recognized
as holy the seventh instead of the first day of the week. It
is a curious sensation to walk through the streets of those
towns on a Sunday morning and hear the buzz of machinery
and the various sounds of a striving and busy community.
In 1706 the Sabbatarian Society purchased, in the then
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
town of Newport, a lot of land, situated at the junction of
what are now known as Spring and Barney Streets, from
Jonathan Barney, for " twenty-one pounds, six shillings,
and eight pence, cur-
rent passable money
at eight shillings per
ounce silver." The deed
was taken in the name
of Arnold Collins, gold-
smith, a member of the
Society and the father of
Henry Collins, a distin-
guished citizen who took
an active part in the af-
fairs of the town and
colony, and was one of
the founders of the Red-
wood Library, giving the
land on which that build-
ing stands. Two smaller portions of land were afterwards
added to the church lot.
At a meeting of the Society held November 9, 1729, it was
voted "that a meeting-house be built, thirty-six feet in length
and twenty-six feet in breadth, on part of that land whereon
the present meeting-house now stands ; and voted at the
same time that Jonathan Weeden and Henry Collins be
appointed a committee to undertake the whole affair of erect-
ing said house, and to raise money by subscription. Voted
at the same lime that the two afore-mentioned brethren do
their endeavors to make sale of their present meeting-house
to the best advantage they can, and dispose of tiie money
towards the better furnishing of the house they are to erect."
The character of the first meeiing-iiouse is unknown, but
it must have been a very simple affair. The house of 1729
is the subject of this sketch. Like most of the Colonial
buildings which I have measured, the dimensions overrun
the established plan and instructions. The church measured
thirty-seven feet front and twenty-seven feet deep, and all its
parts and details are laid out with scrupulous exactitude with
reference to symmetry and proportion.
The exterior of the church is of the most severe and barn-
like character ; with two rows of windows having plank
frames, and with a shallow cornice, made up of a gutter and
bed-mould, the latter mitreing around the heads of gallery
window-frames. The entrance door has no features worthy
of notice, and the steps are of Connecticut brown-stone, the
usual material used for that purpose in Colonial work.
The roof is a simple double pitch, the frame being of oak
timber and shown on the sectional drawing. The tie-beams,
hewn into curves, are curious instances of framing. All
furring-down for the ceiling is dispensed with, and the lath-
ing is nailed directly on the 4" x 4" furrings, which are
tenoned between the tie-beams.
All the timbers, with the exception of the tie-beams, are
squared. The framing at the junction of the principals and
tie-beams was badly conceived, and the hidden tenons rotted
off, permitting the building to spread badly. In restoration
it became necessary to insert two tension-rods and draw in
the walls to their original vertical position. These rods run
across the building at the line of the cornice.
'J'he large drawings indicate the conscientious attention to
detail which the Colonial mechanics were wont to bestow
upon their works. The greater part of the inside finish is
made of red cedar, jjainted white. All tiie members were
wrought by hand, and the amount of curved and moulded
work, including mitres, is extreme.
While engaged in inaking the measurements preparatory
to the restoration, I was struck by a coincidence which
gradually developed as the work progressed. It has always
been a mystery, unsolved by investigation, as to who designed
Trinity Church in Newport. It was erected in the years
1724-25, through the instrumentality of the English Society
for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts. The
plans and instructions must have come from England, as it
was not until some years later that architects of talent, like
Peter Harrison, emigrated to the colonies. It is a free copy
of Wren's church of St. James, Piccadilly, having the general
character of that edifice, with, however, some strongly-
marked differences. Instead of the row of Corinthian
columns along the gallery, and supporting the vaulted ceil-
ing, it has square and fluted piers, and the lower piers are
much smaller, although panelled in the same way as those at
St. James's. The ceiling is also difi'erent, substituting for a
simple barrel-vault an elliptical andgroined system of vaulting.
Whoever may have been its architect, the men who built
Trinity church, in 1724-25, also built the Sabbatarian
church, in 1729. It is not probable that an architect was
employed for the latter edifice, but the section of every
moulding and detail is the same in both structures, indicating
the use of one set of hollow and round planes by the same
hands. The designs of the galleries, piers and panelling are
also the same. One feature in the Sabbatarian Church is,
however, unique ; /. e., the pulpit stairs. These stairs, al-
though partaking of all the characteristic features of the best
domestic work of the day, are richer in detail and are more
delicately wrought than in any other staircase of the time
with which I am familiar. The staircase in Trinity Church
is of a much simpler design, and the one in the Christopher
G. Champlin house, the best domestic example in Newport,
sliows much less elaboration.
The panelling under the sounding-board of the Sabbatarian
Church is the same as that on the ceiling over the warden's
pew in Trinity Church, and the small pedestal on the sound-
ing-board was surmounted by an English crown, probably of
the same character as the one still remaining on the organ
of old Trinity.
The tablets on the wall bac'ic of the pulpit, and shown on
drawing, were presented to the Society by Deacon John Tan-
ner, in 1 773. The lettering is still clear and bright, with scrolls
in the arched tops. Below the Decalogue appears the follow-
ing text from Romans III, xxi : "Do we then make void the
law through faith? God forbid; yea, we establish the law."
There is a legend that when the English army took oosses-
NoTE. — The tie-beams are of rough-hewn timber, curved by the axe,
scarfed in centre. The iron straps are roughly forged and the boltswhich
secure them to the king-post are simply driven through, the ends turned
over and keyed. The timber is all of oak. The furrings for ceiling are
about 4" X 4'' and tenoned into the tie-beams at each end. The lathing is
dir -ctly on the furrings. Eacli principal runs down to a feather end, but
is tenoned into the tie beam and pinned. The building spread badly, and
in its restoration iron tension-rods were put in between the plates.
sion of Newport, in 1777, and desecrated all the places of
worship, except Old Trinity and the Sabbatarian Church, by
using them for riding-schools and hospitals, the latter edifice
SEVENTH-DAY BAPTIST CHURCH, NEWPORT, R. I.
33
was saved and guarded through respect for the Decalogue
and the royal crown found within its walls.
The clock, forming the initial cut of this article, hangs on
the face of the gallery, between the two central piers, facing
the pulpit. It was made by William Claggett, a celebrated
horologist of his day in Newport. The clock in the tower of
Trinity Church was also made by him, and many of the tall
clocks, with sun, moon, stars and signs of the zodiac, fre-
quently found in the possession of old families, bear his
name. The church clock has been repaired and is again
marking the hours, not of long and prosy sermons dealing
with colonial brimstone, which seems to have been a very
prominent article in the faith of our ancestors, but striking
hour after hour the onward march of Newport's history,
down from the eventful and romantic past, into the unknown
future. Geo. C. Mason, Jr.
Six Hours in Salem, Massachusetts.
On Gallows Hill.
HE materials for the accompanying drawings
and sketches, and the following facts, rela-
tive and irrelevant thereto, were collected
by the present writer and a friend in a six-
hour-long visit to Salem, supplemented by a short preliminary
cramming at the Boston Library on the evening previous
thereto. In so short a time, and with imperfect facilities
(our only instruments were note-books, rules and pencils, and
a kodak camera), it is perhaps presumptuous to suppose that
much of fresh interest or of permanent value could be gath-
ered in a field already so well harvested by such men as
Arthur Little, Frank Wallis and others not less competent,
but it so happened, partly by accident and partly also from
design, that we devoted our attention principally to houses
not treated before. In so doing we have hoped not only to
escape comparisons, sure to be disastrous, but also to aug-
ment, in some slight degree, the sum total of drawings and
documents pertaining to Colonial architecture in America.
In the popular mind, .Salem is so indissolubly associated
with the idea of witchcraft that in any article on the subject,
however practical its nature or prosaic its style, it would be
impossible not to refer in passing to that insane delusion, the
horrid and bloody results of which have made the town
famous not in the history of the country merely but in that
of humanity at large. Indeed, the tragedy enacted there two
centuries ago colors the life of the place to-day, and. like
a murderer's conscience, clamors fur recognition. There is a
sinister something in the names one hears, such as the " Witch
House" and "Gallows Hill"; the very word "witch," which
once struck terror to brave hearts, is used now by tradesmen
to enhance the value of their wares. In the court-hou<'e are
still to be seen the documents relating to the trials, and ob-
jects used as evidence; among them the " witch pins " with
which the accused w..;re supposed to have tormented their
victims. On the corner of Washington and Lynde Streets
we came upon a black bronze tablet bearing the following
inscription : —
" Nearly oppofite this fpot flood, in the middle of the flreet,
a building devoted from 1677 until 17 18 to municipal
and judicial ufes. In it, in 1692, were tried and con-
demned for witchcraft mod of the nineteen perfons who
fuffered death on the gallows. C}iles Corey was here
put to trial on the fame charge, and, refufing to plead,
was taken away and prelTed to death. In January, 1693,
twenty-one perfons were tried here for witchcraft, of
whom eighteen were acquitted and three condemned, but
later fet free, together with about 150 accufed perfons in
a general delivery which occurred in May."
It was like encountering a funeral on the street, and,
hurried and preoccupied as we were, we could not but pause,
and try to realize, if only for an instant, the terror which
ruled the community when husbands accused wives, and
children parents, and safety lay neither in wealth nor station
— least of all in innocence — and fear and cowardice passed
like a pestilence from heart to heart.
In reading over the reports of the witch trials one is af-
flicted by a feeling of something uncanny in it all, and is
tempted to believe in witchcraft — obsession by evil spirits,
and the rest ; but time has strangely reversed the positions of
accuser and accused, for now it is the judges who appear to
be the vehicle of the diabolic will, so blind and implacable
they seem — so intent on having the blood of their victims.
A single instance will suffice to illustrate this: One of the
afllicted girls declared that Sarah Good, then on trial, had
cut her with a knife and broken the blade in her flesh. Search
kering House.
was made, and, sure enough, the blade was found on Sarah's
person. .\ young man, thereupon, arose and exposed the
fraud. He produced the remainder of the knife, and told
how he had thrown the broken blade away in the presence
of the girl; but the Court, instead of admitting his evi-
dence, dismissed him with an admonition not to tell lies
and continued the taking of testimony. What wonder that
34
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
justice such as this wrung from Martha Corey the pathetic
protest : " You are all against me and I cannot help it ! "
Next to its having been the centre of the witchcraft de-
lusion, Salem is perhaps most famous as the birthplace of
Nathaniel Hawthorne and the supposed scene of many of his
Custom-House.
romances. The house where he was born, and others in
which he lived at various times, may still be seen by the
curious visitor, and so intermingled do the real and the ideal
become with the lapse of time that one of the principal
"objects of interest " is a house supposed to have been the
original of the " Seven Gables," though there is little or no
evidence in support of such an assumption. Whatever may
have once been its condition, it certainly tallies ill with Haw-
thorne's description ; and of gables we counted only two.
The Pickering house came much nearer our own ideal —
even to the magnificent old elm before the door. These two
are about the only remaining examples of the many and
steep-gabled houses built here in the middle of the seven-
teenth century, in evident imitation of the Gothic half-
timbered cottages of England.
We visited the Custom-house, where Hawthorne served a
term in the capacity of Surveyor of the Port, an experience
which he subsequently immortalized in his introduction to
the " Scarlet Letter." The place looks to-day exactly as he
there describes it : —
" In my native town of Salem, at the head of what, half a
century ago, in the days of old King Darby, was a bustling
wharf, — but which is now burdened with decayed wooden
warehouses, and exhibits few or no symptoms of commercial
life; except, perhaps, a bark or brig, half way down its
melancholy length, discharging hides; or, nearer at hand, a
Nova Scotia schooner pitching out her cargo of firewood, —
at the head, I say, of this dilapidated wharf, which the tide
often overflows, and along which, at the base and in the rear
of the row of buildings, the track of many languid years is
feen in a border of unthrifty grass, — here, with a view from
its front windows adown this not very enlivening prospect,
and thence across the harbor, stands a spacious edifice of
brick. From the loftiest point of its roof, during precisely
three-and-a-half hours of each forenoon, floats or droops, in
breeze or calm, the banner of the Republic; but with the
thirteen stripes turned vertically, instead of horizontally, and
thus indicating that a civil, and not a military, post of Uncle
Sam's Government is here established. Its front is orna-
mented with a portico of half a dozen wooden pillars support-
ing a balcony, beneath which a flight of wide granite steps
descends towards the street. Over the entrance hovers an
enormous specimen of the American eagle, with outspread
wings, a shield before her breast, and, if I recollect aright, a
bunch of intermingled thunderbolts and barbed arrows in
each claw."
Fresh from a reperusal of Hawthorne's description of his
life there, we tried to imagine him as still an incumbent of
the post, going about his accustomed duties, and we almost
duped ourselves into believing that we would see his familiar
figure within each newly opened door. There was little to dis-
courage such a fancy. For aught that we could see, he might
have left there only yesterday. The same superannuated
sea-captains, apparently, slouched about the corridors, calling
one another " Cap," and discussing the last or coming "clam,
fry," just as they did when Hawthorne passed among them
like a prince disguised among his poor, — he alone conscious
of his rank and power, and waiting till the time came to
declare it. One of the above-mentioned dignitaries showed
us the window at which Hawthorne worked, and the chamber
in which he found the scarlet letter (if he ever found it, ex-
cept in a chamber of his brain), in a manner which showed
it to be an accustomed service.
The building itself, erected about the beginning of the
century, impressed us as a fine example of later Colonial
architecture, full of dignity and repose, and, though scarcely
larger than some of the houses with which it is surrounded,
expressing in unmistakable and appropriate terms its character
and office.
Hawthorne is by no means the only illustrious son of
Salem. Prescott was born here ; here Roger Williams taught
and preached, and Count Rumford kept a store. Wash-
ington and Lafayette both visited the little town in the
stirring Revolutionary days, and almost all of the presidents
since. It is said that the first armed resistance to British
authority occurred at the North Bridge in an engagement
known as "Leslie's Retreat." In the war of 1812 the battle
between the. '■^ Chesapeake" and the '■'■Shannon" was fought
off the shore of Salem, and was witnessed from the hills by
the townspeople.
But more interesting to us than the town's history were the
lovely old houses of which it is built up.
We had come to see them and to this purpose we devoted
our remaining time. To the mind of an architect the build-
ings of Salem arrange themselves naturally into three classes :
First, those very old houses, built by early settlers in the most
primitive times, possessing all the dignity and simplicity and,
withal, the barrenness of the Puritan character, and around
which cluster many strange, true histories and curious tradi-
tions ; second, those built in later Colonial and Revolutionary
days, usually by rich merchants and ship-owners, when Salem
had become a principal port of entry, and an important com-
mercial centre, and in which the Colonial style is exhibited
in its very flower ; and third, those purely modern structures
— confused, chaotic —
which have sprung up in
profusion in some parts of
the town, like weeds in an
old-fashioned garden.
The very oldest house
of all, as well as the most
famous, is the Roger Wil-
liams house, on the corner
of Essex and North
Streets. The exact date
of its building- is not
known, but it cannot be
far short of three centu-
ries ago, for in 1675 the
chimneys had to be taken down and rebuilt. It again suf-
fered alteration in 1746, and now a vulgar little modern
drug-store grows out of its withered old side, like some ex-
crescence, indicative of age and disease and swift-coming dis-
solution. The western portion, with its quaint, overhanging
A Salem Back-yard.
SLY HOURS IN SALEM.
35
second story, is almost all that remains of the original
structure, but from it, in imagination, one may reconstruct
the whole.
In 1635 this house was the home of Roger Williams, and
from it he was driven by Puritanical intolerance to seek
shelter among the Indians at Narragansett Bay, where he
Pingrec House.
founded the State of Rhode Island, as every school-boy
knows. In a letter to his friend, Major Williams, he thus
refers to the event which drove him thither :
" When I was unkindly and unchriftianly, as I believe,
driven from my houfe and land and wife and children (in the
midfl of a New England winter, now about thirty-five years
part) at Salem, that ever honored Governor, Mr. Winthrop,
privately wrote to me to fleer my courfe to the Nahigonfet
Bay and Indians for many high and heavenly and publike
ends encouraging me from the freenes of the place from any
Englifh claims or patents. I took his prudent motion as an
hint and voice from God, and waving all other thoughts and
motives I fleered my courfe from Salem (through winter fnows
which I feel yet) into thefe parts where I may fay Peniel, that
is, I have feene the face of God."
The house passed then into the possession of Captain Rich-
ard Davenport, whose administrators sold it in 1675 to Jona-
than Corwin, notorious as being one of the two magistrates
before whom were tried and condemned those first persons,
"charged with certain deteflable arts called witchcraft and
forceries wickedly and felonioully ufed, practifed and exer-
cifed by which the perfons named were tortured, afflicted,
pined, confumed, wafted and tormented." The preliminary
examinations of some of the accused are said to have taken
place in a room of the old house, and this circumstance has
given it the name of the " Witch House," by which it is best
known.
In rummaging over some old files of the Essex Institute
Bulletin in the Boston Library I came upon a transcript of
the contract between Corwin and one Daniel Andrewe for
remodelling the house. I give it here entire. As an ex-
ample of an early specification, it will be seen to possess all
the diffuseness and obscurity common to such documents at
the present time :
"The faid Daniel Andrewe is to dig and build a cellar as
large as the eafterly room of faid houfe will afford (and in
the faid room according to the breadthe and length of it) not
exceeding fix foot in height; and to underpin the porch and
the remaining part of the houfe not exceeding one foot ; the
faid kitchen being 20 feet long and 18 feet wide; and to
make fteps with flones into the cellar in two places belong-
ing to the cellar, together with flone fleps up into the porch.
2. For the chimney he is to take down the chimneys which
are now ftanding, and to take and make up of the bricks
that are now in the chimneys, and the (tones that are in the
lean-to cellar that now is, and to rebuild the faid chimney
with five fireplaces viz : two below and two in the chambers
and one in the garret; alfo to build one chimney in the
kitchen with ovens and a furnace, not exceeding five feet
above the top of the houfe. 3. He is to fet the jambs of
the two chamber chimneys and of the eafternmost room
below with Dutch tiles, the faid owner finding the tiles; alfo
to lay all the hearths belonging to the faid houfe and to
point the cellar and underpinning of fd. houfe and fo much
of the hearths as are to be laid with Dutch tiles the faid
owner is to find them. 4. As for lathing and plaiftering he
is to lath and fiele the four rooms of the houfe betwixt the
joifts overhead and to plaifter the fides of the houfe with a
coat of lime and haire upon the clay; alfo to fill the gable
ends of the houfe with bricks and to plaifl:er them with clay.
5. To lath and plaifter the partitions of the houfe with clay
and lime and to fill, lath and plaifler the porch and porch
chambers and to plaifter them with lime and haire belides;
and to fiele and lath them overhead with lime and to fill,
lath and plaifter the kitchen up to the wall plate on every
fide. The faid Daniel Andrewe is to find lime, bricks, clay,
ftone, haire together with labourers and workmen to help
him, and generally all the materials for effefting and carrying
out of the aforefaid worke, except laths and nails. 7. The
whole work before mentioned is to be done, finifhed and
performed att or before the lart day of Auguft next following
provided the faid Daniel or any that work with him be not
lett or hindered for want of the carpenter worke. 8. Laftly,
in confideration of the aforefaid worke, fo finiflied and ac-
complifhed as aforefaid, the aforefaid owner is to pay or
caufe to be paid unto the faid workmen the fumme of fifty
pounds in money current in New England, to be paid at or
before the finiftiing of the faid worke. And for the true per-
formance of the premifes, we bind ourfelves each to other,
our heyeres, executors and adminiftrators, firmly by thefe
prefents, as witneffe our hands, this nineteenth day of Feb-
ruary, Anno Domini 1674-5
Jonathan Corwin
Daniel Andrewe "
The meeting-house in which Roger Williams used to preach
— the first for congregational worship built in America — has
been carefully restored and preserved, and stands now in the
rear of the Essex Institute. The frame is about all that
remains of the original building.^ It is so small that a person
reaching forward from the front of the gallery might touch
the extended hand of the minister behind the desk. It is
used as a repository for many curious relics, among them
Hawthorne's desk, at which the " Scarlet Letter" was written,
or at least begun.
The Pickering house, before alluded to, is also of great
antiquity, having been built in 1651 by John Pickering, and
inhabited ever since by his direct lineal descendants. For
this reason, perhaps, it betrays few evidences of the ravages
of time. There are other
houses in Salem, built
about the sametime, which,
though interesting histori-
cally, present few attrac-
tions to the lovers of ar-
chitectural beauty. It was
for those built about the
year 1800 that we reserved
our admiration and our
lead-pencils — great square
structures, usually of brick
and stone, with wooden
cornices and porches. One
of them, typical of the whole class, especially arrested our at-
tention by the beauty of its proportions and detail. Standing
' During the current year Mr. Eben Putnam has brousht forward an
elaborate argument, which seel<s to show that this cherisfied relic is not
the first meeting-house erected in 1634 and that, even if it is the earliest
church building in Salem, still earlier churches were erected — the
Hoston and Camdridge churches in 1632 and the Dorchester church in
1633.-- Kd.
Typical Salem Frame House.
36
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
a little back from the street, and apart from its neighbors
on either side, it displayed a fagade plain almost to barren-
ness, but so well fenestrated and divided horizontally by broad
bands of brickwork at each floor-level as to quite fill and
satisfy the eye. This wall was finished with a well-propor-
tioned cornice, and this, in turn, surmounted by a delicate
balustrade. The only other bit of ornament consisted in one
of those dainty and beautiful semicircular porches before the
entrance, of which we saw so many in Salem. Through
the courtesy of its occupants, we obtained admission to this
house, and made drawings of much of its interior woodwork,
which was both rich and refined. It was while so engaged
that we first learned that the house had been the scene of one
of the most horrible murders in all the history of crime, known
at the time of its committal as the " Salem Murder," and
celebrated alike for its cold-blooded brutality, the high posi-
tion of many of the individuals concerned, and the singular
succession of fatalities which accompanied and followed it.
The facts are, briefly, these :
In a room of the old house, on the night of the 6th of
April, 1830, Capt. Joseph White, a rich and respected citizen
of Salem, was stabbed and beaten to death, as was alleged,
by his nephews, George and Richard Crowninshield, and an
accomplice, in order, it is supposed, to obtain possession of
the old man's will. When the crime was discovered, the
whole countryside was aroused, a great public meeting
held, and the murderers hunted down and apprehended.
In the trials which followed, some of the greatest lawyers in
the country participated, among them Daniel Webster and
Samuel Hoar. The jury failed to agree, and so the trials
came to nothing ; but they were full of startling and dra-
matic incidents. Chief Justice Isaac Parker, immediately
after delivering his charge to the jury, fell forward, dead,
and one of the Crowninshields killed himself in jail while
waiting trial. The other, Richard, was the inventor of some
of the most intricate machinery used in the factories of New
England to-day.
This tale, when we heard it, somehow dampened our archi-
tectural ardors. At this window, we reflected, where now
the sun streamed so brightly in, the assassin entered; these
floors creaked warningly beneath his stealthy feet, and then
were treacherously still ; this spotless white woodwork had
been crimsoned by the old man's blood ; these walls resounded
with his dying groans. We did not care to linger after
that, but tiptoed down the broad stairs and through the
still hall out into the welcome noise and glare of Essex Street.
The Essex Institute was just next door, and we spent half
an hour very pleasantly in the museum, where there are many
pieces of fine old furniture and woodwork taken from houses
now destroyed, \^'e found fine furniture, also, in the house
of Major George Whipple, and the first " Salem cupboard "
that we had ever seen.
A little beyond the Essex Institute is the armory of the
Salem Cadets, a stately old house built by Col. Francis Pea-
body in 1818. Its front is diversified by two segment-shaped
bays, in this respect a departure from the usual Salem type,
though a common feature of many old houses in Boston.
The interior is more than ordinarily grand, one room con-
taining a white marble mantel with carved caryatides. OflE
of the stair-landing is a banqueting-hall finished in oak in
Elizabethan Gothic, where, we are told by the guide-book,
" Prince Arthur of England was entertained at dinner on the
occasion of his attending the funeral of George Peabody,
the banker, February 8, 1870." This rich, dark, elaborate
interior is in startling contrast to the trim white Colonial
finish of the rest of the house.
We left Salem for Boston about three in the afternoon,
with such feelings of regret as must have been Sinbad's on
quitting the Valley of Diamonds, for, to our unaccustomed
Western eyes, the place seemed a veritable mine of archi-
tectural wealth. The permanent impression left with us by
our hasty visit was of an exceedingly quaint and picturesque
old town, striving here and there to be "smart "and modern,
like some faded spinster who has seen better days, who mis-
takenly prefers our shoddy fabrics to the faded silks and
yellow lace and other heirlooms of an opulent past. The old
houses which we visited, as redolent with memories of other
days as a rose that has been kissed and laid away, awoke in
us a mood of pleasant melancholy full of vague guesses and
conjectures. It was as though the houses themselves were
trying to communicate to us their secrets, and had half suc-
ceeded. They seemed, indeed, human in a way that modern
houses never do — like the Colonial dames, their mistresses
— trim, plain and a bit prudish in outward appearance, but
interiorly beautiful, full of fine and delicate sentiment. This
comparison, fanciful perhaps, is yet applicable to the old
houses of the South, which occupy their acres more invit-
ingly, with iess restraint, and are, altogether, more charming
outwardly, yet, within, are not without a certain strain of
coarseness. Claude Fayette Bragdon,
The Relation of Georgian Architecture
to Carpentry.
t^.t^Pt-ag' Milan • •'•• ,:J^*iiiv '
liN II lliii ;:iiii; till III li
SMALL need is there for any one to be at pains to It might almost be said that the history of English domes-
prove the importance of timber-work as an element tic architecture has been a record of the progressive rejection
in English domestic architecture. The very paucity of timber. To-day we are wiihin easy distance of building
of our evidences of the earlier methods of British houses in which there is no timber at all; we have certainly
house-building is in itself a testimony to the prevalence of achieved the power of dispensing with wood as a construe-
wood as the principal means of construction. The students tive element, and, indeed, we exercise this power to such an
of mediffival architecture sometimes wonder why it is that the extent that there are houses of which it could be claimed
subjects offered for their consideration are nearly always that they contain no wood except such as is there for decora-
churches, sometimes
castles, and but sel-
dom houses. And
the main reason for
this disproportion-
ate survival of relig-
ious buildings is, no
doubt, the simple
fact that the Eng-
lishman of the Mid-
dle Ages, and in-
deed of later times,
though he associ-
ated stone with his
ideas of church-
building, used tim-
ber of choice and of
necessity for the
walls of his own
house. Fire and
old age have made
clearance of these
wooden homes, but
have left the ma-
sonry of the cathedrals. Even churches, as we know, were a door, apparently of mahogany, the other day which, its
built of timber in the first days of British Christianity, and creator proudly declared, was mainly composed of a new
if we can realize the fact that the primitive English places species of fireproof papier-mache! E^xcept on grounds of
of worship were not only very stnall, but of very light wooden fire-prevention, this successful contest against the work of the
construction, and perhaps without any foundations, we shall carpenter and joiner is a spectacle of the most melancholy
appreciate the possibility of there being more human force kind — most melancholy and most modern. For, though the
than miracle in the feat of .St. Dunstan, who, with a thrust of struggle has, in a sense, b-en going on through all the ages,
his strong shoulder, corrected the orientation of a chancel the conclusion that wherever a substitute can be found for
which did not duly face the East. wood it should be used in preference to it is a product of
I
Fig. 1. Godtrey House, Hollingbouriie, Kent. lUiilt 15S7: restored 185'^.
tive purposes — and
for doors. Our
floors, our very
roofs, we make of
concrete and steel,
our stairs are stone
or concrete, our
window-frames are
iron or gun-metal,
and, though one
nwy enter a room
which appears to
have a wooden
chimney-piece and
a painted deal dado,
the chances are that
you will find the
former to be cast-
iron and the latter
some composition of
a s b e s t i c plaster.
The wooden door,
it must be owned,
dies hard, but I saw
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
entirely modern reasoning. Even in the days of the eigh-
teenth century the verdict in the battle of materials was wont
to go the other way. In fact, it might be stated as a general
proposition that the architects of the Georgian period be-
lieved in their inmost hearts that in spite of the rivalry of
other materials,
there was really in
the long run nothing
like wood. The ver-
satile Dean Aldrich,
in his Latin treatise
on the elements of
architecture, bids his
readers, if they would
secure a sound foun-
dation, lay the foot-
ings of their walls
on trunks of trees;
and those of us who
are engaged in Lon-
don architecture are
aware that a fre-
quent source of un-
expected expense in
street building is the
necessity for cutting
out of the old party-
walls (under the per-
emptory orders of a
district-surveyor) the ''bond-timbers," without which our fore-
fathers considered a brick structure incomplete. In fact,
it would almost seem as if even a hundred years ago the
builders of houses, while realizing the usefulness of brick and
stone, were still scientifically convinced that, for real stability,
unity and solidity in any fabric, timber was a necessity.
But we must go back for a while and look at the antece-
dents, in order that
we may see what
stages led up to that
phase of English
architecture which,
when carried over-
sea and translated
into Colonial terms,
took so kindly to its
new climate, and
seemed to find in
the luxuriant timber
supply of the New
World not so much a
need for any modifi-
cation of its methods
as an opportunity for
fuller realization and
development on the
original lines.
Timber construc-
tion had taken sev-
eral forms in l^ritish
architecture. The most familiar, perhaps the most typical,
form of timber exterior is that which presents itself in Chester
and the neighborhood, and which we know as " half-timber-
ing." Its structural origin is very simple : it consists of the
primal elements of wooden formation. However wooden
walls may be finished, they consist essentially of some form
of framework which would not of itself exclude the weather.
Wesley's Cottage, Rolvendcn Laytie, Kent.
Fig. 3. Rawlinson Fa:
having interstices between its structural posts. The neces-
sary continuous solidity of the walls is secured either by
filling these interstices or by covering the whole formation.
In the case of the half-timbering it is the former method
which is adopted. The posts, which are the elements of the
fabric, are exposed
and the intermediate
spaces are filled-in
with plastering.
The richer and more
elaborate examples
of this much ad-
mired, but some-
times ^/art/-/-^', style of
art are well known,
and are fully illus-
trated in the books
which deal specifi-
cally with this class
of work. The speci-
mens which I offer
here in illustration
of the subject are
taken from less
known buildings,
and are chosen for
their simplicity of
style — there is noth-
ing aggressively
Jacobean or Elizabethan about them. They have no strong
reminiscences of Gothic tradition, still less do they breathe
the spirit of the New Birth. They are quiet evidences of
straightforward Anglo-Saxon construction in a plain, honest
Anglo-Saxon material. They are homes in fact. And what-
ever there is about them of style is of that style which is
merely the outcome of direct expression in handicraft. It
is the style of the
bench, not that of
the study. They
show craftsmanship,
not scholarship.
One of my illustra-
tions, that of God-
frey House, Holling-
bourne, has an ascer-
tained date. It was
erected in 1587, and,
strangely enough,
has survived without
hopeless disfigure-
ment a restoration
in 1859, a date at
which restoration
could still be unkind.
This photograph
with that of Wesley's
cottage at Rolven-
den Layne (Kent),
exhibit the use of
diagonal struts in the framing, which in some examples is
found strongly developed, and in others is purposely, as far
as possible, suppressed. Obviously there are conditions
under which diagonals of this kind are a great source of
strength in a construction which without them might suc-
cumb disastrously to oblique pressure, but it is a curious fact
that rural builders, who cultivated this picturesque method.
ront View, Kolvenden, Kent.
THE RELATION OF GEORGIAN ARCHITECTURE TO CARPENTRY.
were sometimes very unmethodical in tlieir disposition of lath-work and renderinjj are carried right over the face of
these elements of stability, and appear to have used at ran- the wooden posts. In this example will be seen an instance
dom what one thinks should be a calculated force in the of the device common to most European town architecture of
structural economy. wooden construction, the corbelling-out of the upper story in
The two views (Figs. 3 and 4) of Rawlinson Farm, Rol- advance of that below. There are many good reasons for
venden (Kent), give an example of the vertical method undis- this expedient, and its method of construction is extremely
turbed by any
diagonal features of
design. Brick is,
of course, employed
for the chimneys in
all these construc-
tions and in the last
example is even
made use of for
some of the walling,
but the constructors
have evidently felt
that for general pur-
poses the claims
both of beauty and
economy demanded
the use of timber.
The cottage at
Martyr Worthing
(Fig. 5), a very
humble little build-
ing, leads to the
mention of a second
method of filiing-in
Fig. 4. Kawlinsoii Farm: Rear View, Rolvenden, Kent.
simple. It will be
understood that the
carrying over of
the upper wall-sur-
faces not only pro-
vides a shelter for
passengers on the
pavement, but is a
great protection to
the building itself.
In any building in
which such a treat-
ment is applied to
one story above an-
other in several
stages, it is obvious
that the foundations
are completely pro-
tected from drip,
and that each stage
is shielded from wet
by the stage above
it. Another advant-
age where land is
between the posts of the framework — the use, namely, of valuable is that, while observing the frontage line at the street
brickwork itself as a sort of subsidiary. This method is a
strange reversal of our modern methods and modern ideas.
The architect of to-day, who uses his half-timber work for its
visible effect rather than for any constructional value, is
wont, in England at least, to plant his limber framing (some-
times rather thin framing, too) upon a hackwork of brick,
thereby acknowl-
edging to himself at
least, if not to his
public, that he looks
to the brick for sta-
bility, warmth and
resistance to
weather, and recog-
nizes the wooden
formation as a
merely a;sthetic ad-
junct. With the
older generation the
motif was reversed.
Brick was well
enough for a mere
filling-in, but the
strength was ex-
pected from the
timber.
Another cottage
(Fig. 6) exhibits yet
another method of
finishing the surface of a timber-built wall. The upper story
is so plastered and colored as to produce the appearance of
a uniform material. The plaster-work of the filling-in be-
tween the beams is either quite flush with the face of the
Fig. 5. Cottage at Martyr WortliiniL;, near Winchester, Hants.
level, the owner gains a little added accommodation by
enlarging his site, so to speak, at the upper levels. Need-
less to say, the Vestries, Borough (,'ouncils and District
Surveyors of modern cities are very chary of permitting such
old-time methods of overhead trespass.
The simplest method of effecting an overhanging wall of
this description is
to carry the floor-
joists through the
front wail, allowing
them to project to
the required dis-
tance. On the end
of these joists,
which thus become
can t i levers, i s
placed the wooden
framing which forms
the front wall of the
upper story, neatly
finished off with a
moulded fascia.
One of the note-
worthy facts in the
history of pjiglish
timber architecture
is that, in spite of
all the changes
of passing styles
and fashions, almost in opposition to them, it pursued its
course as a natural vernacular and traditional craft, and thus
retained a continuity unknown to the kindred arts of masonry
and brickwork. The carpenter had a soul above foreign
timber (as in the left-hand portion of the building) or is novelties, or, to put it more simply and, perhaps, more truth-
brought so far forward, as in the right-hand gable, that the fully, he had about him a good British obstinacy, which
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Fig. 6. House at West Wycombe, Bucks,
Fig. 7. The Butter Walk, Dartmouth.
Fig. 8. Did House in Hooper Street, Dartmouth.
Fig. 9. Detail of Window in the IJutter Walk, Dartmouth.
THE RELATION OE GEORGIAN ARCHITECTURE TO CARPENTRY.
5
retarded the growth of innovation and kept alive the spirit tional conservatism to which Mr. IJionilieid alludes. Thanks
of antiquity in his handiwork. Mr. Blomfield, in his ^'History to an almost divine protection which has saved many of
of the Renaissance in England" gives full prominence to this these beautiful fabrics from the destruction which might
important factor in
the architectural de-
velopments of our
country. " The ear-
lier examples of six-
teenth-century car-
pentry are," he says,
"Gothic rather than
Renaissance in
character. The old
methods in use by
the excellent carpen-
ters of the fifteenth
century were regu-
larly followed, and
the gables, the over-
hanging stories, the
spurs or angle-posts,
cusping and tracery,
and many a detail of
ornamentation show
that, in spite of the
changes that were
imminent, the car-
Fig. 10. Ttie liutter Walk, Dartmoutli.
have seemed almost
inevitable, it would
be possible still to
illustrate this part of
the subject with a
very large collection
of reproductions
from buildings still
in existence. T h e
few photographs
here brought to-
gether will be enough
for our immediate
purpose. Five of
my examples (Figs.
7, 8, 9, 10, 1 1) are
from Dartmouth, a
town which rivals
Chester in its de-
vices for obtaining
the maximum
amount of house-
rooiTi over the pave-
ment, and like
penter followed the medincval tradition as faithfully as his Chester, though in a less degree, secures the result by the
inferior skill would allow, and few things are more remark- erection of a colonnade above the sidewalk, thereby produc-
able in the history of English art than the pertinacity of this ing a covered way. The houses in the Butter Walk (Figs. 7
tradition." and 10) belong, I suppose, to the middle of the seventeenth
Fijf. 11. House at Dartmouth.
Fig. 12. Two Houses in the Higli Street, Exeter.
The whole of the Elizabethan and Jacobean periods of century, and are certainly brilliant examples of an architect-
English architecture must have been full of manifestations ure the style of which is much more easily defined by
of street architecture exhibiting the principles of construe- geographical than by chronological limits. Its genius, one
tion with which I have been dealing and the spirit of tradi- may say, is (Jothic : it is of a piece with the traditions of
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
that older England to which the whisper of the Italian
awakening had not yet come ; nor can it be said that, while
Gothic in structure, it is Classic in detail : certainly it offers
here and there a passable "guilloche," and there is a hint
in places of a dentil-course and a regulation beaded astragal,
but the closer one looks the less evidence one finds of the
proprieties of scholarship. That twining vine of the first-
fioor frieze has about it an archaic freedom that might grow
upon an " ambo " at Torcello, and the uncouth slab that sur-
mounts the columns (who shall dub them Doric ?) is far more
like the rude energy of Ravenna than any example to be
found in the handbooks of Palladio or in the ^'Mirror of
Architecture^ The sashes which have found their way into
the top story and into the sides of the bay-window are, of
course, interpolations, little bits of innovation already grown
old. The two further Dartmouth examples (Figs. 8 and ii)
in Figure 13, which I take to be a somewhat older house.
To turn from Western England to Kent, we see once more
what can be done with timber, and how long it may endure
in the two examples which I have taken from Rochester.
The designer of the house in Figure 14 must, I think, have
produced an internal effect which it might be worth while to
repeat in modern buildings. There has been in modern Eng-
land a strife of architects over the subject of the function of
windows, one extreme school holding that as the use of a
window is to let in light, it is well to range the windows at
a high level along the whole length of the window wall, the
other arguing that the window's mission is to give the in-,
habitant the means of looking out, and that, therefore, the
sill must be placed so low down that the eye even of a per-
son sitting well back in the room is not obstructed in its
outward vision; a middle school, containing most persons of
Fig. 13. Old Houses in the Ilitjll Street, Exeter.
Fig (4. F.astgate House, Rochester, Kent.
are evidently of the same period. They exhibit the same
excellence of carving in the corbels which support the bay-
windows, proof of the fact, which is sometimes overlooked,
that alongside of an almost barbaric habit of sculpture in
frieze-work and running ornament there existed in England,
throughout the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, a
school of architectural carvers whose work had all the
elements of rustic vigor and beauty.
The West of England must have been especially rich in
timber street-architecture. Even in Bristol, a town which is
becoming rapidly modernized, there are side-streets close to
the main thoroughfares that set one thinking of Shakespeare,
and Exeter, a city not yet absorbed by the enterprise of the
latter-day commerce, contains several houses of ancient date.
The simpler of my two examples (Fig. 12) is a good specimen
of that bow-window treatment, coupled with overhanging
stories, which gains for the owner increased accommoda
tion on each higher floor ; and the same thing is exhibited
common sense, has realized that the window has, and always
has had, both functions, and has, therefore, perpetuated the
use of the ordinary normal window, which, while keeping a
tow sill, gets what effect of breadth it can., without unduly
absorbing the wall-space. I think that this Rochester win-
dow would unite the demands of both disputant parties, not
by the concessions of compromise (which imply a sacrifice
on both sides, but by positively uniting the claims of both
systems). In the other Rochester house (Fig. 15) we may
admire the bravery which has abandoned symmetry. We
have here an elevation marked out by three gables ; beneath
them on both first and second floors are three bay-windows,
but the designer thinking more of inward convenience than
outward effect, or, perhaps, realizing, as few men realize in
these days of drawing-boards, that a building in a street is
not often seen in true orthographic elevation, has thrown his
centrelines to the winds and produced a composition whose
grace is no way marred by the neglect of vertical rhythm.
THE RELATION OF GEORGIAN ARCHirECTURE TO CARPENTRY.
These instances will have given point to the quotation
from Mr. Blomfield"s book, and will have shown how it came
about that the development
which we know as Georgian
architecture found the English
builders steeped in the living
traditions of centuries of lim-
ber-construction. The import-
ance of this as a factor in the
success of that architeclure will
be easily demonstrated. Mean-
while, before turning into the
Georgian period, let me offer
just one more example of ear-
lier work, the rather nonde-
script but certainly picturesque
little Cloth Hall at Newbury,
which, at the time of writing, is
about to be saved from ruin by
a careful reparation. One
would hardly guess from a first
glance at the illustration (Fig.
i6) how largely the building
partakes of wooden construc-
tion. A coating of cement has
reduced the whole of the upper
story to an appearance of uni-
form material; but it becomes
obvious as one studies the way
in which that upper story is
supported that though the end-
wall, with its stone coping and
solid "kneelers," is probably
of brickwork, the side-walls, supported as they are by the
wooden brackets shown in Figure 17 (and no doubt by con-
Fig. 15. Houses in Rochester. Kent.
framing.' The very base-wall, which the failure of the
cement-facing reveals to be brick, is not of brick alone, but
has a skeleton of timber, and
I doubt not that the Doric col-
umns (whose round abaci sug-
gest the misinterpretation of a
drawing) are of really con-
structive value. I suspect that
the cement labels are a mod-
ern addition.
There are many folks to
whom it occurs to think that
Georgian architecture consists
of a rather meaningless addi-
tion of scraps of Classical
reminiscence to an otherwise
rather commonplace method of
house-building. They would
tell you that the recipe for such
Art was simply to design your
building as nearly as possible
in the form of a cube ; to place
your doors and windows as
symmetrically as may be ; to
trim the latter with lengths of
so-called " architrave " mould-
ing; to deck the door with a
flattened composition which
might be a direct transcript
from anybody's book on the
Roman orders; to apply to
the eaves any Classic cornice
that happens to be adaptable,
and to confine the internal decoration to the perpetration of
yet one more theft from the architectural class-books, a set
Fig. 16. Clolt) Hall, Newbury.
Fig 17. (inckets: ( Im I
of
cealed floor-joists as well), must, undoubtedly, be of wooden of chimney-pieces which shall be mimic representations
tl have confirmed this impr^ion^.y examininR one of the f ramTng. battened, hung with tiles and rendered with cement above
walls since I wrote these remarks. The side-wall is of timber- the tiles.
8
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
the temple-ruins in the Forum, and, in the United States, to
paint the wooden walls yellow and the standing-finish white.
Now, a very little thought and a very little study will show
the unreasonableness of this taunt ; and there may be no
harm in going for a while to the root of the matter. However
much we may laugh at the theorists who see in every detail
of Classic architecture the survival of some feature or other
in a prehistoric wooden construction, there can, I think, be
no question but that there must be some truth in the idea
that the orders and their adjuncts are derived from wooden
tradition. Obviously, wood preceded stone as the primitive
material of human habitations. Obviously, a timber log
makes a better and a longer beam than does a stone lintel ;
obviously, under certain circumstances, a vertical trunk makes
as good a post or column as can be made out of stone. In
fact, from the point-of-view of primitive man, and for the
purpose of immediate needs, setting aside durability and
Fig. 18. House at Totnes, Soiilh Devon.
permanence, wood is as useful a material for building as
stone. We are, therefore, almost bound to look for a timber
architecture as the logical and historical predecessor of ar-
chitecture in stone, and, indeed, the more that study is given
to the functional nature of the detail of the Classic orders
the more does it become apparent that the shapes which
have become so fixed and familiar can claim a reasonable
derivation in wooden forms. Even if such a parentage be
disproved, the converse of my argfument is, undoubtedly,
true, and it is this converse truth that 1 atn here at pains to
set forth. Perhaps the very best instance in point is that of
the eighteenth-century application of the Classic cornice
as the crowning-member of a Georgian gentleman's house.
What did necessity demand ? A gutter, a covering for the
heels of the rafters, and some collection of mouldings of
receding section, which would effect the required amount
of projection from wall-face to gutter, without allowing over-
flow from the gutter to run down the wall-face. All these
requirements you may fulfil without great expense, and with
a good deal of refinement, by simp'y working in deal the
regulation mouldings of the Tuscan, Doric, Ionic, or Corin-
thian order. The cyma, whether you execute it in lead-lined
wood or in metal, will give you your gutter, the fascia covers
your rafter-heels, and the bed-mould, with or without trusses,
according to the amount of projection required, neatly fin-
ishes, and partly supports, the whole arrangement in a way
which precludes the dribbling of water down the frontage.
So, again, with the Georgian porch. The house-builder
says to himself — "My walls are of brick and they are 14 or,
may be, 18 inches thick. I cannot, for various reasons, form
my doorway of entrance simply by making an aperture of
7 feet by 3 feet through the wall, with a door hung in it.
For one thing, brick is an unpleasant material to rub against
in coming into the house, for another I want more depth
thm my 14 or 18 inches will give me, so that a waiting
Fig. 19. House on tlie Abbey Yard, Eatll.
visitor on the doorstep may have some protection from sun
and rain. To secure this I must apply wood or some such
iTiaterial to my reveals, and I must contrive to bring this con-
struction forward so as to stand in advance of the general
wall-face, and so increase the shelter. Now, my projecting
pattern must be roofed-in within something that slopes con-
veniently to right and left ; there must, moreover, be no
sharp angles about the projecting jambs of my shelter, and
if I can get a semicircular fan-light over my door so much
the better."
As it happens, every one of these many conditions is
fulfilled, and with scarcely an ounce of unnecessary material,
by the severely Classical design which makes the elegant
doorway shown in illustration No. 20. The ovolo-moulded
panelling neatly clothes the jambs of the brick-opening, the
columns provide a rounded surface at the very spot where
angularity must be avoided, they also produce by their pro-
jection from the general wall-face the additional depth of
THE RELATION OF GEORGIAN ARCHITECTURE TO CARPENTRY.
reveal required for additional shelter, and they carry as their
crowning-feature a Roman pediment, whose lines present the
very outline most convenient for discharge of rainwater. As
a final touch of convenience it will be noted that the frag-
ment of frieze and architrave between capital and cornice,
so far from being a mere concession to Classical etiquette,
offers just the amount of extra height required to make possi-
ble the insertion of a legitimate semicircular arch, which be-
sides its legitimacy has the merit of supplying the one
remaining want — ■ a glimmer of light for the hall. The
useful, they say, is synonymous with the beautiful. Here
is a composition which fulfils a set of wants in every par-
ticular. On this account it is, philosophically speaking, a
thing of beauty; but, besides being this, it satisfies the mi-
nutest requirements of the Classical amateur. It is, there-
fore, doubly admirable ; trebly, I might even say, for h ho
in the case of the Bath house is merely ornamental, though
even here one might plead that the cornice protects the wall,
and that the pilasters which support it are little more than
the legitimate application of ornament to the piers be-
tween the windows. In the Devonshire specimen the cornice
has an added function, for it conveys across the frontage with
considerable aplomb the transverse gutter, which would other-
wise be a serious disfigurement of the aspect of the house.
But my point in thus offering these two illustrations is that
the use of the order and entablature which, in its stone treat-
ment at Bath is a perfectly reasonable, commonsense, and
beautiful employment of an Italian motif evolved from
Roman antiquity, is in its wooden development at Totnes
equally happy, equally congruous, and equally true. It is,
in fact, still architecture and not mere decoration nor mere
archa2ology.
Fig. 20. Doorway at Newton Abbott.
Fig. 21. Doorway at Dartmouth.
will deny its claim to beauty on other and less secondary
grounds.
To what extent the genius of this Georgian architecture
was a timber genius may be seen by comparing my examples
numbered i8 and 19. The latter represents a house in Bath,
the Ionic frontage of which is executed not in wood, but in
the celebrated Bath stone, but the former — a street-house in
Totnes (South Devon) — is, I believe, erected entirely
in wood. It is a raiher curious fact that by an accident of
selection both these examples do violence to the architectural
canon that a columnar composition should have as its centre
a void and not a solid. One is a group of three pilasters.
the other one of five, but in spite of this fault, which to many
eyes is a fault rather academic than real, it will be owned
that both examples exhibit propriety and grace. To be quite
honest one must acknowledge that the order and entablature
' This cut, we regret to say, lias been lost by the plate-maker.
Plates 6 and S of 1'
Sometimes the Classicism of a Georgian house is so en-
tirely coextensive with its joinery that the two seem almost
synonymous. You may find a house the fabric of which is
mainly brick, showing wherever it shows timber the culture
of the Renaissance. Here are two graceful eighteenth cen-
tury door-heads, which illustrate such a tendency, the one'
is from Bristol, the other (Fig. 21) from Dartmouth. The
shell in the former, which became so favorite a feature
during the Georgian period, is, of course, no transcript of
antiquity, but is a development, and a perfectly reasonable,
logical and suitable development from Classic and Renais-
sance ideas. It is legitimate design within the limits and
under the genius of the adopted style. The happy evolution
of such a feature is the kind of thing that serves to prove to
those who balance inventive art against antiquarian, that
architects can be at one and the same time conservative
but as a substitute we will refer to the shell-hoods shown in
art VIIl ante. — Kd.
10
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
and progressive. Of the corbels which support the shell- and their inhabitants are ready to vouch for their warmth and
head, one might say that they are lawful descendants of the dryness. How, it may be asked, can architecture of this de-
Corinthian niodillion. The
modillion's projection and
depth have certainly been
increased at the expense of
its other dimension, but there
are sound structural reasons
for such a change, and the re-
sult, instead of striking the
beholder as a travesty on an-
tiquity, appeals to him at once
as being an adaptation of an
ancient feature to modern
needs, without loss of beauty,
without loss of the ciiarms of
traditional association. The
Dartmouth door (22), that
bears its date so bravely, is a
simpler thing, nearer to type
in some ways, farther from it
in others. The use of the
curved pediment is, of course,
the adoption of the variation
which the Italian architects
iniroduced; as for the mould-
ings, every one of them has its
Classic ancestor, but the
brackets or corbels are of an
essentially British type.
Brackets of closely similar
design are extremely common
all through England, and their
origin, if one comes to look for it, is fairly obvious. This
familiar form is nothing more, or less, than a representation
in outline (without detail) of the
Corinthian m o d i 1 1 i o n , including its
(oliage. Under ordinary circum-
stances, it would occur to most de-
signers that if the carving of the
modillion were too expensive for his
present requirements, the natural
course would be to use the scroll or
volute element of the modillion
or truss without the leafage, but this
idea did not satisfy some of the car-
penters of Georgian England, who
preferred to cut out of board a figure
which should be capable of at least
casting a shadow similar to the
grander article which expense for-
bade.
And now I am brought to my final
examples, which will show, certainly
in rather a humble way, how the
simplest form of rural wood-architec-
ture was able to carry with grace the
ornaments and, to a large extent,
the spirit of the gracious style of
which we are treating here. In Fig-
ures 22 and 23, one may see English
wood-construction of the simplest
type — a building whose timber-frame
is outwardly protected by clapboards,
or, as we generally call them in England, "weather-boards.'
Fig. 22. Doorway near Goudhurst, Kent.
Fig. 23. Doorway at Dorkinf;,
scription lend itself without
incongruity to the assumption
of the Classical elegancies of
Georgian building-craft? The
answer, I suppose, is found
even more readily in American
Colonial Architecture than in
the houses of England ; but
we have our examples, too,
and the little and unpreten-
tious dwelling near Goud-
hurst, exhibited in Plate 2,
will serve to give proof to the
main argument of this short
essay, which is, to express it
briefly, that the Classicism of
Georgian architecture, its art,
in fact, was intimately and
congenially associated with
wood as a building-material.
The Englishman's love for
timber had not always had
free rein. There was a check
at the end of the sixteenth
century, a sort of timber-panic.
Twice, at least, official reports
were made to the officers of
the Crown on the excessive
consumption of timber in the
Southern counties (chiefly in
the iron-mills) and it is be-
lieved that the regulation which followed this report led to
the suppression of half-timber work in the Southern districts.
Certain it is that the forests of Eng-
land had been making, even in tiie
course of a hundred years, alarming
progress towards disappearance, and
there was thought to be some ground
for the fear that ship-building might
be in danger. But a century later,
these anxieties would seem to have
abated. Half-timber, which gen-
erally implies oak, was, indeed, no
more ; brick was more largely adopted
as the material of walls: but it is a
fact that those very districts of Sur-
rey, Kent and Sussex, in which the
wood-panic had occurred, contain
more examples than most parts of
the country of the use of timber-
fronts in Georgian work. Two new
causes may have been already in
operation, the importation of timber
and the disuse of the South-country
iron-works.
I think that the house-carpenter
has somehow lacked a poet to sing
his praises, and even historians have
rather allowed him to be over-
shadowed by the mysterious mason.
There can be little doubt that for
centuries the carpenter was, in Eng-
land, the great transmitter of tradition, the great artist in
Such cottages abound in parts of Kent to the present day, construction, and a contriver of so high an order as to merit
THE RELATION OE GEORGIAN ARCHITECTURE TO CARPENTRY.
II
the name of designer. He was a great man in Gothic
times ; he was a great man still in Renaissance and Geor-
gian times, and whereas the mason undoubtedly changed his
personnel, occasionally being at one period and another a
foreigner, introduced to carry out the new ideas from the
Continent, whether Italian or Dutch, I expect that our friend
the carpenter must have endured much less of foreign sub-
stitution ; with the versatility of his craft he lent himself
easily to the new modes (which were, in truth, such old ones)|
and found with all the joy of an artist that these cymas and
ovolos, flutes and astragals were the very things his tools
were meant to work. He was without more ado at home with
these bits of Rome and Greece. He worked, he prospered,
and became the backbone of Georgian art.
Paul Waterhousk, F. R. 1. B. A.
IT would be very easy to show the justness of Mr. Water-
house's line of reasoning by a reference to the work of
the seventeenth-century carpenter in this country, for
some of the still extant buildings built from 1640 on-
wards show unmistakable evidence of the work of English
carpenters, who had, of course, not yet felt the impulse of
the Classic movement of the time of Anne and the Georges,
but merely followed on new soil the traditions of English
carpentry handed down from the times of the Gothic masters
of the art.
Half-timber work, pure and simple, was probably little used :
wood was at hand, but bricks were not, and by the time
native brick-yards were in operation the practice of all-wood
construction had become commonly understood and habitual.
Still, there is a kind of reminiscence of half-timbering in the
brick-nogged wall so com-
monly used for the north
and east walls of old New
England houses, though, as
the outer face is covered
with clapboards, like the
other walls of the house,
while the inner face is con-
cealed behind lath and
plaster, the presence of
brickwork is no more sus-
pected by most observers
than it was in the case of the
Cloth Hall at Newbury,
mentioned above.
In still another particular
was English practice repeated in American houses, and
though here no restricted site made it desirable for a builder
to gain space in the upper stories by making them overhang
the walls of the story below, yet the practice was very gen-
erally followed, and we have houses like the Whipple house,'
at Ipswich, Mass., and the Waller house,'- at Salem, for in-
stance, where the upper siory overhangs the lower, more or
less. The explanation is, simply, that the house-builders
here followed the method of framing — a very logical method
— to which they had been habituated in England. It has
been very common to consider these overhangs as a recession
from and modification of a custom tiiat certainly did prevail
in the early block-houses and some of the semi-fortified dwell-
ings where a considerable overhang was purposely given to
the upper story, so that the door and window openings in
old House, F.irmington, tji
the lower walls might be commanded through loop-holes in
the projecting part of the upper floor. Many an observer,
haunted by a schoolboy belief that all overhanging floors
were signs of former Indian strife, has vainly tried to under-
stand how loop-holes cut in such slight projections could
ever have commanded any savage standing close against the
wall below : others, thinking themselves more intelligent per-
haps, saw in these peculiarities of construction only another
evidence of the universal conservatism of mankind, and
smiled at the seeming unwillingness of the builders to con-
fess in their work that, since Indian onslaught was no longer
to be feared, there was no longer need to even indicate an
overhang which had become abbreviated by atrophy. It
took the patient examination that Messrs. Isham and Brown
gave to the old buildings of the seventeenth century to
make it quite plain that in
most cases these overhangs
had nothing to do with
Indian warfare, but were
simply and frankly the ex-
pression of the method of
framing employed by the
early carpenters, and Mr.
Waterhouse, above, shows
clearly that these early
builders of ours were not
inventing new methods of
framing, but simply follow-
ing those which were familiar
to them from their appren-
tice days at home.
Although the seventeenth-century buildings have not per-
haps as much architectural character as those of the Georgian
period they are vastly interesting and picturesque, and, for
one thing, afford an unrivalled chance for studying the effect
of roof-lines. There are so many ways in which a study of
these old buildings can be made useful that it is worth while
to give below an incomplete list of seventeenth century
buildings still extant in Massachusetts, and a few elsewhere,
compiled from sundry recent contributions under "Notes and
(Queries " of the Boston Transcript. We give the list for
what it is worth, having made no attempt to \erify name,
date (which sometimes differs from that stated elsewhere in
this work) or actual present existence of the structures enum-
erated. In all probability, many of the buildings have only
their age to recommend them to notice. — Ed.
Ameshury, Mass. : —
Macy House ■^'54-
Aiidmer, Mass. : —
Abbott House \(¥.yo.
Hradstreet House. (io\- ... 16^17.
Holt House ■'jyS-
Ariijii^tott, Mass. : —
I^cke House. Abel. 1690 or 17 19.
Ixjcke House. W.. [684 or 1760.
Russell House 16S0.
•See Vol. 11, Pan VII, pages 73-74
Ihdfofd. .Mass. : —
Uacon I louse
/>Vr t-r/y. .Mass. : —
liaker House
C'onaiU I louse
Trask I louse
/>///tv/V(7, Mass. : —
Fletcher I louse
liostOH, Mass. : —
(.'barter .Street. No
..16S2
. 16S5
.16—
Boston, .Mass. : —
Greenougli Lane and Vernon
riace 1698.
Hancock Tavern 1634.
Mather House. Cotton ... 1677.
Revere House. I'aul 167S.
A'roo/.'/J/u\ Mass. : — •
Asphnvall House i6f)0.
Devotion House >6 — .
. 1650.
,,r.94-
Sun Tavern 1690.
Treniere I louse I^'7-t-
Wells 1 1 ouse 1 660.
/loiinw. .Mass. : —
15ourne I louse 16 — ,
'See Vol. II, Part VII, Plale 29.
Jhirlin^tori, Mass. : —
Cutler House 1650.
Keed-Wyman House 1665.
Cant(>fidi;t\ Mass. : —
Austin House 1666.
Bishop's I'alace. Linden Ave. . . .
16—,
Lee House. Judge Joseph ..1680.
12
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Chelsea, J/dss. : —
Bellingham House. Ciov, . 1670.
Cary House i()6o.
Pratt House 1670.
Chestnut Hill, Mass. : —
Hammond House 1640.
Kingsbury 1 louse i 700.
Concord, Mass. : —
Barrett House. Col. James..] Co.
Huntllosmer House i(aSo.
Tavern
l-'rami>ti;;ham Cctttiw Mass : — Lcxiiii^ton, Mass. : —
Haven House 1694. Estabrook House. Rev. B..1693.
.^, ^ ,r Hancock House 1608.
iiioucester, Mass. : — -kx r,. ^ f'
' Munroe lavern. . . . r675 or 1695.
Sawyer House 16 — . Plummer House '693.
Gnenlami, .V. IT. : — Lo^uell, Mass. : —
Old Brick House. Tlie. . ..1638. Clerk House 1670.
Guilford, Conn. : — UracutGavin House i(>-~.
Garrison-Wliitfield House. Old iMneuhurg, Mass.: —
Stone 1635. Gushing House 16 — .
Newport, K. I. : —
Arnold's Mill. Benedict. .. 1666.
Bull House. Henry 'f'39-
Friends Meeting House. . . . 1700.
North Andover, Mass. : —
Bradstreet House (6C7.
Peabody, Mass. : —
Buxton House 1680.
Goodale House 16 — .
Needham House 1665.
Pope House 16 .
The Corbett House, Ipswich, Mass. [1635.]
Danvers, Mass. : —
Clarke House. Joseph
Endicott House
Fowler House
Harris House
Houlton House
Jacobs House
Jacobs Witch House.
G
Osburn House. Sarah
Page House
Prince House
Putnam-Goodhue House...
Townsend-Bishop-Nourse 1
Dedhavi, Mass. : —
Fairbanks House
White House, Cedar .^t. . . .
1650.
1675.
i<''34-
1 650.
1 650.
1658.
eorge
1650.
1660.
1 660.
1 650.
louse
,636.
1640.
164CS.
Haverhill, Mass.: —
Peaslee-Ciairison House. . ..1670.
Whittier's liirthplace. ..'... i6yo.
I/inghani, Mass. : —
Cushing House 1*^79
Gay House. Parson 1680
Jacobs House. Nicholas. . 1675
Lincoln House. General. . 1650
Meeting House. Old Ship. .1680
Ips^iiiieh, Mass. : —
Bond House '("JS-
Caldwell House 1640.
Dodge House. 1640.
Howard-Emerson House. . . 1675.
Jones House. William .... 1726,
Norton-Corbett House 1660.
.Sutton House 1642.
The Saltonstall Hou.se,
Marblehead, Mass. : —
Doak House ''^75-
Tucker House. ( >1<1 1640.
Marshfield, Afass. : —
Winslow House 1642.
Afedfield, Mass. : —
Clark House 1680.
Medford, Mass. : —
Barrack. Old 1650.
Cradock Fort if'34.
Cradock- Wellington House
^(>3(<-
Melrose, Mass. : —
Eynde House I'JZS-
Milton, Mass. : —
Houghton House 1680,
Tucker House '643.
Ipswich, Mass. [1635.]
Pembroke, Mass. : —
Barker House. Old 1640.
Plymouth, Mass. : —
Do ten House 1660.
Harlow House 1675.
Howland-Carver House. . ..1666.
Morton-Whiting House. . . . 1667.
Portsmouth, N. //..• —
Crowe Hou.se 1680.
Jackson House 1660.
Quincy, Mass. : —
Adams House 1681.
Quincy-Butler House 1680.
Revere, Mass. : —
Newgate- Yeaman House. . . 1650
Ti e Shedd House, lirigluoii, Mass. Lif^^o.]
The Duardiuan House, Saugus, Mass. L<7oo ]
Dorchester, Mass . : —
Blake House 1640.
Bridgham Hf)use i^*.35-
Capen House. Barnard. . . 1628.
Clap House. Roger 1640.
Mattapan Road House 1690.
I'ierce House. Robert .... 1635.
Dttxbury, Mass. :■ —
Alden House. John 1
Standish I louse. Myles . . . i
PJast Braintree, Mass. : —
Wales House. ]'".l<ler i
£ast Wareham, Mass.: —
Gibbs I louse i
666.
68 1.
fps'wich, Mass. : —
Whipple House ^^35'
Whittlesey House 1640.
Winthrop House lf'34.
Kingston, Mass. : —
Bradford House. Major. ..1675.
Cobl) House 1640.
Cushman House 1680.
Willett House 1638.
Kittery, Maine : —
Bray House 1660.
Lexington, Mass. : —
Bowman House 1649.
Buckman Tavern 1690.
1680.
16—.
1675.
.16
)52
Nantucket, Mass. : —
Coffin House
Meader House. Hannah
Paddock House
Newbury, Mass. : —
Coffin House. Tristram.
Donahue House 1640,
Hale House 1650
Ilsley House 1670
Noyes House. Parson. . . . 1645
Sexton-Short House 1700
Spencer- Pierce House 1650
Toppan House 1670,
Newcastle, N. //. .' —
Jaffrey-Albee House '(J/S
Roxburv, Mass. : —
Walker- Williams House. . . 16S0.
Salem, Mass. : —
Bakery. Old 1690.
First Church 1631.
Hawthorne's Birthplace. . . . 1675.
Pickering House 1650.
Shattuck Witch House. . . .1675.
Turner House (of Seven Gables)
i6f)6.
Waller- Ward House 1690.
Williams Witch House. Roger
1635-
Salisbury, Mass. : —
Osgood House 1 646.
THE RELATION OE GEORGIAN ARCHITECTURE TO CARPENTRY.
13
Siiugus, Mass. : —
Hill-Boardmaii House 1650.
Old Ironworks 1643.
Scituate, Mass. : —
Otis House r68o.
Siidl'ury, Mass. : — ■
Walker-Garrison House. . ..1660.
Wayside Inn 16S0.
Swampscott. Mass. : —
Blaney House 1640.
Mudge House 1634-
wBk ■■
K^..i9
.^'^^'^J^^^BI
_• ■ f-
Watt:rtowii^ Mass. : —
Brown House 1 633.
IVen/iam^ Mass. : —
Ober House 16S0.
IVi-'st Britl^eii.hiter, Mass. : —
Keith House 1662.
IVinthrop. Mass.: —
Deane Winthrop House. . ..1649.
IVobtirn, Mass. : —
Baldwin House 1681.
Cutler House 1690.
The Sarah Osbom House, Danvers, Mass. [i6g-.] ^
Scituate Harbor. Mass. : —
Baker House 1634.
SomeroilU, Mass. : —
Somerville Ave. No. 478. . 1690.
Topsjield., Mass. : —
Andrews House 1685.
C'apen-fJarrison House 1660.
ll'aba/i, Mass. : —
Woodward Homestead 1C86.
The George Jacobs (Witch) House, Danversport, Mass. [1690.] '
West7uoo(f^ Mass. : —
Colburn House \Ci^o.
Winthrop, Mass.: —
Bill House ...
, 1650.
York, Maine. : —
Jail 1653.
Mackintire Garrison House.. 1645.
Moulton House if'/S-
Q
KING MANOR HOUSE.
The King Manor
House, I'late 16, now
owned by the town of
Jamaica. L. I., and
lea.sed to an a.ssociation
of ladies for care and
preservation, was built
in 1805 l)y Kufus Kini;
as an enlari;enient of
an older portion fstill
extant) liuilt by Ames
Smith in 1750.
^tWt"
5?
'MiM^/% 'LJ^'''
fe^
l^^^^^*^'-
p
iS^^^&rV'^'
"^
'^u^rm^W^^^^ \-^ •''^
^
Syf^k jT'-^.
m
?? iip ■ ^^^ _fc P^H
n
'^ ^!^ ' flif^l
m
vf. ■ .^5^' - ^^^^HteTHI
L
. ."^^bi^iiH
^^^^^^Bl£iB£^^4^ . .
ir*^-
• "^^^
' -
fL'l; 1 ■-
1
^^^^
• tJtta
^^^^
TJT'S'
The Mills Ward House, Salem, Mass.'
c
WONTICEI.I.O.
Although Mr. Skin-
ner elsewliere (page 27)
gives the date of Mon-
ticello as 1810, other
aiitliorities say tliat it
was begun in 1764, and
that when Mr. Jeffer.son
brought his brido home
to Monticello in 1772,
it was to a liilly com-
pleted house that he
brought her.
* After photographs by hr.iiik C'misins, Salem, Mass.
Dutch and German Eighteenth-century Work.
PROBABLY more than one person while looking over The explanation is simple. The traveller voyages in
the two preceding papers, with their illustrations, has search of novelties, new impressions; he seeks new ideas
wondered how it happened that during his travels which, perhaps, he can transplant, graft, prune, cross and
in Great Britain he never noticed how large was the improve in divers ways. The female eye is caught by,
number, and how varied tiie interest, of the buildings that, and retains the memory of, unusual fashions of dressing the
seemingly, e .\ i s t
on every hand de-
signed in the style
with which this
work especially
concerns itself.
These Colonial
doorways are so
familiarly agree-
able at home in
America, how was
it, then, that their
presence in Eng-
land escaped
notice.' How was
it that houses
sided with clap-
boards, looking as
if they had over-
night crossed over
from Salem, were
passed by without
detection? We
never suspected
such structures
were to be found
outside of this
country, yet Mr.
Davie and his
camera have
found them, and
when they are
brought before
the reader on the
book page he at
once recognizes
that here is some-
thing novel, a
fresh fact that had
escaped his trav-
eller's note-book
St. George's Clmrcli, Halifax, N. S.
[1800.]
hair, new shapes
of caps, unusual
comb in ations of
colors, while the
male mind retains
memories of the
ridiculously heavy
harnesses, the
solid and un-
wieldly vehicles,
the unhandy-look-
ing tools, and so
on. Of a Fifth-
Avenue belle and
a Breton fisher-
woman seen side
by s i d e on the
same beach in
Brittany, the
woman traveller
would see and
retain the memory
of the latter only,
just as the man,
though he had
passed an Ameri
can buggy and an
English tax-cart
side by side on
the road to the
Derby, would
warmly declare,
after reaching
home, that he had
seen no American
"rig" anywhere
abroad. In the
same way, the ar-
chitectural travel-
ler would recall
that here at last is the germ of the fa- the strange appearance of the house-fronts on the Continent,
miliar wooden house of his native land, the home of his fore- with their great unfinished holes where the casement-windows
fathers, who carried the memory of it with them in their had swung open inwards, and would declare that nowhere
exile, and erected modified simulacra of it at the earliest did he see a hung sash or guillotine window. Familiarity
convenient opportunity. breeds contempt, and things contemptible or too famihar
«4
DUTCH AND GERMAN EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY WORK.
15
generally escape notice, so it is not to be wondered that the
homelike structures of the Georgian period have not attracted
the notice of American travellers, except perhaps in the
matter of Wren's churches: they have unquestionably been
noted and, in cases, deservedly admired. But Wren's
churches, like Michael Angelo's dome, or Raphael's Ma-
donnas, are amongst the literary puppets that every writer is
expected to parade upon his stage at the auspicious moment,
and, consequently, few readers can escape knowledge of them.
Presently, for the American traveller, much of the quondam
pleasure of the Continental tour will be lost through the
process of vulgarizing that is going on so fast. The glory of
the chateaux in the valley of the Loire will wane, since what
novelty will they possess for the traveller who winters in
North Carolina, summers in Newport, spends the autumn at
Lenox, and so has become familiar with French chateaux — •
as bettered by the American designer ? Better he knows
they are, since they have electric elevators, steam-heat,
refrigeratingplants and other appliances of high-pressure
American civilization, and so not to be placed in the same
category with those homes of the old French aristocrat, with
their draughty rooms and their cold and noisy wooden floors.
And the traveller
familiar with New |
York will feel no
thrill before the
lordly palaces of
Genoa and Rome,
for has he not seen
such as they from
his childhood up ?
Even the seemingly
inimitable flavor of
Venice is likely not
to be savored by the
American, by and
by, who has ac-
quired the "exposi-
tion-habit," and has
become accus-
tomed, once a year
at least, to loll at his ease in the smooth-going gondola. The
thought is more piteous than exasperating, but the outcome
seems inevitable, and the traveller of the future is likely to
follow the prescribed route in a more discontented frame of
mind than now. But now, as then, the traveller does not
note the presence of familiar aspects and facts, and so it is
small wonder that the illustrations of the preceding papers
present themselves somewhat in the light of a revelation.
It is rather a reversal of probabilities that a colonizing
nation, whose youth are prone to leave home at the earliest
opportunity and seek excitement and personal discomfort in
every quarter of the globe, should be the nation of all others
which understands how to make the dwelling-places of its
members look homelike, peaceful and comfortable. The
French family-feeling is much stronger than that of the Eng-
lish, but none would suspect it when he contrasts the
tawdry eccentricities of the chateaux and maisons de campagne
of the well-to do upper middle-class Frenchman with the
plain and simple country-house of an Englishman of the same
means and rank.
But, wanderer as he is by nature, the Englishman carries
with him his home habits, and he is as unwilling to house
himself in the building of the country he favors with his
presence as he is unable to believe he can be personally
clean unless he carries with his luggage a tin bath-tub of
unmistakable British make. The cities of India and the
open ports of the East are sprinkled with buildings of recent
date, all conceived in one phase or another of Victorian
Gothic, while, on the other hand, the towns colonized by the
French show how the more artistic people have been quick
to seize on and adapt the methods, materials and designs
native of the soil. It is a happy chance that the English
colonists who settled in this country brought with them memo-
ries of Georgian and pre-Georgian buildings, and did not leave
home in the time of a Gothic revival ; else, in place of our
graceful Colonial mantelpieces, with their ample and useful
mantel-shelves, we might have found in our older dwellings
fireplaces as cheerless and useless for home purposes as
those which Viollet-le-Duc has introduced in his restoration
at Pierrefonds.
Wherever along our Eastern coast the Englishmen settled,
we find, still, abundant traces of his presence in the houses
and churches he erected. Not only are they to be found, as
every one knows, widely scattered in the original thirteen
States, but there are quite as interesting examples to be
found in the British Provinces to the north of us. French
city as Quebec is, there is there to be found many an inter-
esting example of
Georgian architect-
ure in whose con-
ception and execu-
tion certainly no
Frenchman had a
share, and so it is
with other places
all the way from
Halifax to Toronto.
At the latter place
the writer heard
there was an old
mansion of much
interest in the Geor-
gian style, and so
addressed the pres-
ent occupant for
particulars and per-
mission to procure the desired photographs. In reply came
a chilling, and quite liritannic, response which declared that
it was quite unnecessary to take any trouble in the matter, as
the structure was merely a simple English house of brick with
a pillared porch or two. As the real point of interest lay in
the fact that a " simple English house " should have been
built of brick as far west as that — quite on the outskirts of
civilization — a hundred years ago, such a response coming
from any one would have been exasperating, but it was all
the more so since the owner was a well-known man of letters
who might have been expected to appreciate the purpose of
the inquiry. Still, as the statement was made that the house
had been altered within recent years, it did not seem worth
while to press further an evidently unwilling householder.
But there, beyond the source of the St. Lawrence, was built
shortly after the Revolution, and possibly with imported
brick, a "simple English house" in the Georgian style.
The earliest architectural efforts made by the first settlers
in the British Province were doubtless similar to those
made in the more southerly settlements, save that the greater
ri-'or of the climate demanded more substantial buildings ;
but by the end of the eighteenth century all, or nearly all,
of the structures reared by the early settlers had probably
passed away, and the architecture of the time was affected
by the same influences that created the meeting-house of
Tlie Government House, Halifax, N. S. [1801-5.]
i6
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
New England and the mansion of the Virginia gentleman.
But, though English influence in a seaport town was, of
course, strong, and though Halifax was within the radius
of the influence that radiated from the French settlements,
there were other influences at work there, other bands of
settlers had come from other lands than France and England
and left traces of their presence, both in the admixture of
blood and customs and in the buildings they erected, more
suo. Thus, there are at Halifax two very interesting eccle-
siastical structures, one of whicii avowedly, and the other
inferentially, bears testimony to the early date at which the
common people of this northern continent began to be
evolved by a species of ethnical cross-breeding which has no
parallel in the world's history. Even the great Roman
Empire only succeeded in producing a sort of effeminate
hybrid, a human mule, unable to perpetuate its own species.
Here at Halifax is a little Dutch church built in 1755,
about as simple a little structure as could well be devised ;
fatherland as they best could remember and interpret them.
This little church received a Government grant, probably
quite as minute as its own size, the rest of the building-fund
being contributed by members of the congregation who
worshipped here, after the tenets of the Lutheran Church,
until circumstances led to amalgamation of this society and
another. Since that time the building has been in use as a
school, no gteat change of course, for, in all probability, the
early churches or meeting-houses were in most cases used as
schoolhouses on workdays.
The society which received the adhesion of the members
of the old Dutch Lutheran Church is, curiously enough, one
which has always abided by the prescriptions of the thirty-
nine articles of the Established Church of England, and this
may be taken as showing how the pietistic fervor of the Lu-
theran fathers had, in a couple of generations, become amelio-
rated in their grandsons. Architecturally speaking, there is
no other church in Halifax to which the owners of the Old
Old Diitcli Cliiircli, Halifax, N. S.
['755-]
its parts so simple and so obviously arranged that it would
seem quite unlikely that they could tell much of an archi-
tectural story or say with much distinctness that the struct-
ure was devised by other than FInglish minds. Yet, the low
wall, the wide roof, the door and window heads hard against
the wall-plate, the door at one end of the long side, not
in the middle of the gable end, and, above all, the spire on
the low tower, with its almost flat broaches, tell the observer
unmistakably that the building is of German or Dutch deri-
vation. And so it is, but whether the one or the other,
whether built by some streamlet from the great German
immigration that had accidentally been deflected northward
from its true course, or whether some band of real Dutch-
men, trying to return home after the English had dislodged
them from New Amsterdam, had been disheartened, or,
being wind-bound by adverse winds, had put in to what was
to be Halifax, and, being satisfied, had there remained, is
not material. The really interesting fact is that at the very
same time that buildings designed in the Georgian style
were being erected in different parts of America there were
being built in different places by immigrants of Teutonic
stock, or those immigrants' descendants, other structures that
distinctly recall the elements of the architecture of their
iNewakk, N. J., Chukchus. — There are other parts of the
eastern sealioard than New England that can boast of jjraceful
church spires, and in Newark, N. J., the spires of the Old First
Presljyterian Churcli and Trinity Church (Plate 23, I'art I.\) show-
that the traditions of rutinement and -jjood i)ro]50rtion were not fol-
lowed only ill New ICnj^land — thougli tlie designers were not over
A
Mm
'
^^ ffrt
piKiHi«f!r
- ^ ■ n
-^--^IfK
St. Paul's Church, Halifax, N. S.
[.75-.]
Dutch Church could, with so much propriety, have migrated
as to St. George's, a church of a very unusual type, a dis-
tinctly un-English type, a North German or, more nearly, a
Scandinavian type, and it may be a freak of real atavism
that drew the migrating Lutherans to this curious and in-
teresting structure. But the warmest supporters of the
claims of Lief Ericson would hardly dare to found an argu-
ment in favor of the Scandinavian as the original discoverer
of this continent on the architectural character of St. George's,
for the structure itself was built as late as 1800, and if it
replaced an earlier structure, on a larger scale while maintain-
ing its essential features, we do not know that it is so.
St. Paul's Church, a very large structure, since it will hold
a congregation of two thousand persons, is, so far as the
actual beginning of its being is concerned, really an older
structure than St. George's or the Old Dutch Church, and,
as it was begun only a year or two after the arrival of
Governor Cornwallis with his original band of settlers actu-
ally in 1750, — about the time the beautiful tower and spire' of
the church at Farmington, Conn., was finished, — one might
hope to find some evidence of kinship between it and some
of the more interesting of the New England meeting-houses,
all the more from the fact that St. Paul's was framed in
happy in uniting the wooden spires with the stone towers. The
Presbyterian Church, erected in 1774 by a society then more than
one hundred years old, was much injured by fire a couple of years
ago. Trinity Churcli, built later (1.S05). is interesting not only by
reason of its spire, but because the designer seems not to have hesi-
tated to use pointed and full-centred arches in the same building.
DUTCH AXD GERMAN EIGFITEEXTH-CENTURY WORK.
17
Boston. Perhaps Boston, having in this way aided in pro-
moting godliness amongst the progenitors of the "blue
noses," found there was nothing particularly ungodly in ap-
propriating, without payment, at a later day the timbers out
of which were worked the columns of the portico of the
Massachusetts State-house. But, as the illustration shows,
St. Paul's was built rather to accommodate the troops in
garrison than to give expression to architectural beauty, and
its tower, while in-
dividual enough, is
neither graceful nor
interesting. More-
over, the entire ex-
terior of the build-
ing was palpably
restored at the time
the low side aisles
were added, not
many years ago.
In the same way,
the tower of the Old
Town Clock, as it
is called, which
dates from about
the same time, has
none of the refine-
ment of the best
New England work
of the time, and, as
it too has been "restored," it is questionable whether the cir-
cular peristyle is or is not part of the original design.
All of the buildings thus far mentioned are of wood, but
wood used in a rather commonplace way, and handled
evidently by workmen who had not access to any of the
" Builder s Assistants" which unquestionably enabled ilie me-
chanics of New England to turn out work of greater delicacy,
interesting buildings: one, the Admiralty House, a simple
but dignified square structure with low-pitched hip-roof, is
evidently later in date than the others, which, like it, are
public structures, and so had the benefit of the best archi-
tectural talent. Of these two, the Government House, the
official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, is an extremely
well-proportioned building characterized by slightly project-
ing flanking pavilions which recall the arrangement of the
typical houses of
Colonial Virginia
and, further, are
characterized by
" swell fronts"
upon each pavilion,
quite after the Bos-
ton manner. In
fact, the official
residences of the
time are particu-
larly happy in their
architectural effect,
if it is fair to base
such an opinion
upon this building
and the almost
equally interestirg
Government House
at Fredericton,
N. B. The Halifax
building was erected in the years 1801-5. The other Hali-
fax building, e\en more admirable, is the Province Building,
which was erected in 1811-19 at a cost of a little over two
hundred thousand dollars.
The one building in Halifax, however, of strikingly foreign
aspect is unquestionably the Old Dutch Church, and in this
case we do not feel called on to question the propriety of the
The Old Town Clock, Halifax, N. S.
The Old Government House, Fredericton, N. B.
[.S2S.]
interest and refinement than did the mechanics to the south or
to the north of them. In stone, however, the builders suc-
ceeded better in giving to their work the architectural char-
acter of the period, and in Halifax there are two or three
The Province IJuildin'^, Halifax, N. S*
[iS.i-ly]
iThe V'anoknhf.uvkl Holsk, Nkw NOuk, N. Y. — The
custom of importing Iniildinji-matcrials in early days was not con-
fined to Knglish descendants and lui^land. In fact, we know that
Washington imported some of the nuUerials and fittings used at
Mount Vernon from the Continent, and the fre(|ueiicy witli whicli
the blue Uutch tile and the Dutch scenic wall-paper are encountered
shows that Holland was also a considerable source of supply.
Perhaps, too. the use of the l-'leniisli bond in the early brickwork
may be adduced as a possiljle jjroof tluit not only bricks but brick-
attribution. But as much cannot be said for the many other
" Dutch" structures' that can be found in various parts of
the country, for, in many a case, the term must be translated
as one to-day translates the term "Pennsylvania Dutch,"
layers were of Dutch extraction. Be this as it may, there is record
that when, in 1759, Cornelias Vandenheuvel, <|uondani (iovernor
of Demerara, decided to build a hou.se on the Hlooniingdale Road
near New York City, he imported from Holland all the material
used in its construction. Tliis house, later known as Wade's
Tavern, a famous road-house in its day. still stands, though nnicli
changed outwardly, the original roof, destroyed by fire in the fifties,
l)einsj replaced with a third story in wood, with a Hat roof, ill ac-
cording with the stone walls below.
i8
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
and remember that it more often means German, or even
Swedish, than Netlierlandish. We have been greatly dis-
appointed at not being able to produce any tangible evidence
of the influence the Dutch fashions of building had upon the
work of the Georgian designers and builders in this country,
and we are inclined to feel that such influence as was exerted
was not direct, but sifted first through England. The inde-
finable Dutch feeling that can be perceived in some of the
scattered places. But as it was William Penn who was
largely responsible for this remarkable immigration, first
through his exhortations to the sectaries when as a young
man he wandered through Germany, and later, after he
became a "proprietor," through the pamphlets, descriptive of
the Province of Pennsylvania and how there was to be found
there freedom from war, religious persecution and the op-
pressiveness of unjust laws, which in French, Dutch, English
Moravian Buildings, I'.ethlehem, Pa.
[Till;- (Iniwinu. (combined from three different pIioto;,'rapli8, is faulty in pcrsprctive.]
towers and spires of the New England meeting-houses evi-
dently has no distinct prototype in Holland, but is unques-
tionably based upon Wren's working out of his impressions of
his own travels in Holland. In like manner, when in some
of the small brick churches and court-houses in the South
one feels that at last he has found unmistakably the con-
necting-link, it is pretty certain that the next turning-over
of the records of English work of the time will bring to light
some market-house or petty assize-court, which, though
Dutch in feeling, is much more likely to be the real proto-
type of the American example. There is many a village
street in England fronted with low brick buildings which
gives the traveller the momentary impression that he is back
again in Holland, but when he looks about and strives to
localize the impression it eludes him. He feels sure the
impression must have its justification, but how or with what
he can support it, he finds it impossible to say. So we are
inclined to think that, aside from the immediate neighbor-
hood of New York, the work of the Hollander had little
direct influence on the building done in this country during
the eighteenth century, and this is all the more disappoint-
ing since one of the myths relating to the gambrel-roof is
that it was derived from Holland. Perhaps it was, but we
hope it was not ; for if there is any feature that is distinctive
of American work it is the ganibrel-rcof, and one would like
to feel that it was evolved in this country out of the sheer
constructive necessities of the early builders.
If the changes of more than two centuries have left on and
near Manhattan Island, where alone it could properly be
sought for, few traces of real Dutch work, it is far otherwise
with the " Dutch " work that is properly to be credited to the
Teuton of northern and southern Germany, and as stream-
lets of the great German immigration filtered to all parts of
the Atlantic seaboard from Maine to Georgia, evidences
of the half-remembered architectural fashions of the German
fatherland are to be found to this day in many widely
Bkthlemem. — Althouu'li Bethlehem w;is founded in 1741 by
Bishop Nitschmann of tlie Moravian Chiireli, its name was given
by Count Zinzendorf wlien, some years later, he visited the country
to look after the well-beini,' of the settlers whose emi<;ration had
been promoted by himself and his wife Kdmutb Dorothea. The
and German he sent broadcast through Europe, it was
natural that the largest number of these immigrants should
fettle in Pennsylvania. It is not our part to explain how and
why these immigrants, wearied with the constant bloodshed
of the War of the Spanish Succession, and still more wearied
by the poverty forced upon them because of it, and subjected
to heavy taxation everywhere, while in some states under
Catholic rule the believers in the new creeds — and there
were many varieties — were oppressed and persecuted to an
unendurable degree, were ready to abandon their homes and
risk the perils of a long journey to an unknown and unde-
veloped country. Nor is it our part to dilate on the dismal
tale of their journeyings : how many fell by the way in their
tramp across Europe ; how more were unable to get farther
than England, and there remained to the number of thou-
sands, a charge upon the Government and charitable private
individuals; how those who crossed the sea endured in the
small vessels of the day, ill-found and half-provisioned, treat-
ment from brutal shipmasters that puts tales of the " middle
passage" to shame — on one ship sailing in 1732 with 150
passengers 100 of them died during the passage, and in 1758,
out of the passengers carried during that year in fifteen ships
2,000 died, while in another ship that carried 312 passengers
250 died during the voyage. But this terrible mortality pre-
vailed mainly in the time when the " Newlanders " had built
up their nefarious traffic, which resulted essentially in land-
ing the immigrants — such as survived — in this country as
actual slaves to those who paid their passage-money, whether
before they started or after they arrived. Immigrants thus
enslaved or mortgaged became known as " Redemptioners,"
and they were held in bondage under the formal precepts of
enacted law until by their labor they could pay oflf their debts,
and their masters took uncommon care that this task should
be made none too easy for them.
The movement — a very large and long-continued one —
is one of the extremely interesting events in our early history,
Genieinhaus. the residence of ministers and missionaries, built in
I 742, is the oldest structure in the town. It is built of logs, which
since iS6,S have been covered with weather-boards; but until that
time the walls were protected on the outside with stucco apphea
over split-oak laths.
DUTCH AND GERMAN EIGHTEENTH-CENTURY WORK.
19
and because of the wide distribution of the arrivals, partly
by accident and partly by design — Penn was not the only
land-owner to profit by this German aspiration for a free and
peaceful life — it made a vast impression on the country,
and has left traces in many places besides Pennsylvania,
traces which con-
sist largely in place-
names and family-
names, in a diluted
strain of German
blood and tempera-
ment and some-
thing in the way of
buildings. No
trace now remains
of the L a b a d i s t
settlement at Bo-
hemia Manor in
Maryland, on the
Chesapeake, and
the same, we be-
lieve, can be said
of the Lutheran
settlement at Wal-
doboro. Me. ; b u t
the settlement at
Quincy, Mass., has
The Gemeintiaus, Bethlehem, Pa.
[1742-]
the Redemption ist movement was not reached till 1753, it is
plainly possible that there should be many buildings still
standing in Pennsylvania that owe their being to the hands
of actual German immigrants and not to their descendants of
the next generation. In Philadelphia itself one should not
expect to find much
work of German
feeling, for Piiila-
delphia was the
home of Quakers,
men of peace, men,
moreover, of con-
siderable worldly
wisdom, and they
brought it about
that as fast as the
Germans arrived
they should be for-
warded to the in-
terior and made to
found settlements
along the frontier,
where, as many of
them had borne
arms at home, their
knowledge of mili-
tary a ff a i r s and
at least left a name, for that part of the town where the Sail-
ors' Snug Harbor lies is still styled Germantown. Charleston
and Savannah were the recipients of many Germans, but their
chief foothold in South Carolina was at Ebenezer, Orange-
burg, and Saxe-Gotha. In Virginia, Winchester, Shepherds-
town, Strasburg and Woodstock are likely to afford evidence
of the presence of early German inhabitants, and there were
many settlements made in North Carolina by Germans who
did not find in Pennsylvania the opportunities they sought.
It is in Pennsylvania, however, that is to be found more
evidence of the German immigration than elsewhere, and as
willingness to defend their heads with their hands made them
an admirable vanguard of civilization, and at the same time
a safeguard for the peaceable Quakers in Philadelphia. And
right valiantly did these German frontiersmen play their part,
not only in Indian warfare and at the siege of Quebec, but in
the Revolution. So it is that one must seek in Lancaster,
Ephrata, Bethlehem, Lititz, Easton, Allentown, Reading and
the country between for early indications of German occupa-
tion. But the Germans were so many — -Franklin estimating
their number at three-fifths of the entire population of the State
and other authorities declaring a higher ratio — and so widely
The Moravian Church. Belhlehem, Pa.
[,So3.]
the first settlement was made at Germantown, that suburb of
Philadelphia is still rich in a kind of derived German feeling.
How many buildings there still are positively erected by the
German immigrants we will not attempt to say, but as
the great German movement — although Pastorius bought
his land in Germantown in 1683— did not begin till 1709,
and reached its flood only in 1738, while the high-tide mark of
The Old Chapel, Bethlehem, Pa.
1'7S'-1
scattered that not only there are many buildings of unques-
tionable German origin still standing all over the State, but
they have had such an influence on the commonly adopted
style of building that Pennsylvania buildings have an air of
their own, quite different from that to be found in other States
— plain, substantial, broad and big-roofed, and more often of
stone than of brick, the stonework as often stuccoed as not.
20
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
As the German immigration was largely a movement of towns the "passing-bell" is tolled in the church-lower as
the sectaries who held varied forms of belief and followed the weary soul has just taken its flight, the same function is
ditlerent practices, it was natural that each sect should es- at IJethlehem discharged by official trombone-players, four in
tablish an independent settlement, some so small that they number, whose duty it is to ascend to the tower of the church
quickly passed out of existence, while
others lingered longer, until the follow-
ing generations, unable to stand the
pressure of modern civilization, aban-
doned the seclusion of their fathers,
foreswore their beliefs in a measure, and
became everyday American citizens.
And so, one after another, many of the
different communal settlements changed
their character, and the communal build-
ings were devoted to alien uses; but
some still exist, as at Ephrata, which are
measurably devoted to their original
purposes; while other communities, as
Bethlehem for instance, have known
how to retain in a considerable degree
traditions and practices, and at the same
time to so modify and adapt them to the
ideas of the time as to make their in-
herited practices a sort of drawing-card
to attract at certain seasons a consider-
able concourse of strangers, whose com-
ing is a material help to the town. The
choral festival at Bethlehem is a musical
performance of the first rank, but though
its roots run far back, and though its
Belfry of the Moravian Church, Bethlehem, Pa.
and there blow to the four quarters of
the town the news that brother or sister,
maid, man or widow lies a-dying, the
age, sex and marital condition of the de-
parting being indicated by the choral
that is played. This custom brings it
about that the church-tower must be
provided with a platform or gallery,
around which the players can pass, and
from which they can blow their mournful
messages.
The Moravians' of Bethlehem, while
retaining their creed and racial relations,
have advanced with the times and known
how not to fall behind the chariot of pro-
gress, and so have been able to keep
their buildings in good repair, and they
form a very interesting group indeed :
the big Moravian Church, built in 1803 ;
the First Seminary, built in 1746, flanked
on one side of the open courtyard that
fronts it by the Second Clergy House
that was built four years earlier, and on
the other side by the Sisters' House,
built in the same year, are worth going
some distance to see in this country be.
renderings are not light-minded at all, yet the choruses are cause of their distinctly foreign flavor. The Old Chapel,
drilled by hired choir-masters, as any mere secular and with its big inclined buttresses, built in 1751, the Widow's
money-making choir might be. The Bach festival last year house, built in 1768, and the Gemeinhaus, oldest of all, built
was a very notable performance, and was but the latest in 1742, together with others belonging to the original corn-
overt manifestation of that love of music which the original munity, form a curious contrast to the great industrial plant
settlers brought with them, which has persisted in varying in the once quiet township which now turns out armor-plate
forms until now, but always as a notable characteristic of and great guns,
the people and the place. One of these manifestations is The distinctively German origin of these buildings is
found in the playing
of trombones — and
it is said that skilful
players make trom-
bones very effective
musical instru-
ments. In some
New England
churches, and pos-
sibly in more Eng-
lish churches, the
bass-viol is still
used in lieu of the
organ to give a
background for
choral or congre-
gational singing,
and travellers know
how in some foreign
churches trumpets,
bugles a n d trom-
bones are used for
The General Knox Headquarters, Newburgh, N. Y.
found proved in the
double ranges of
dormers in the great
roofs, and this Ger-
man fashion of util-
izing this roof-space
for dwelling pur-
poses finds a curi-
ous echo, though a
small one, in the
Headquarters of
General Knox at
Newburgh, N. Y.,
where in the print
showing the rear
view there can be
seen, snuggled up
against the chim-
neys, and running
back to the house-
ridge itself, two
minute dormers.
the same purpose. But at Bethlehem the trombone is par The Knox house is called Dutch, but these little dormers
excellence Xht instrument, and its use, or rather one of its uses, make us suspect that its Dutchiness has a Pennsylvania strain
has had a curious efifect on architecture. Just as in some in it somewhere.
1 MOKAVIAN Sktti.kmkni s. — liethleheiii was settled in 1 741 ; ensthal, 1 750. The Harony of Nazareth was sold by the Penns to
Ephrata in 1743; Old Xazaretli in 1743 (Nazareth Hall rates Kdnnith Dorothea, Countess of Zinzendorf, who greatly assisted
from 1755;; f'nadenthal, 1745; Christian .Spring, 1 74S ; Fried- the emigrating Moravian sectaries.
DUTCH AND GERMAN EIGHTEENTH-CENTUR V WORK.
21
Very different iii character, indeed, from the Moravian threatening to fall, and some one was artist enough to ac-
Church at Bethlehem is the "Old Trappe" Church' at complish his task in this very satisfactory manner. The
Collegeville, dedicated in 1745. It is unmistakably of a interior is less changed than the exterior, and the general
German type, and yet the gambrel roof, the general roof-plan effect at least is the same that communicants in the early
being also similar, recalls the Dutch church- at Sleepy Hoi- part of the eighteenth century had before them as they sat
low, in Tarrytown, N.Y., built, so it is said, in 168-, and sug- in the high-backed pews and lifted their chilled feet, now
gests the reflection that Americans, outside of Pennsylvania and then, from the brick-tiled floor, still in place. This
at least, have not had much use for German architecture, church, the "Gloria Dei" in Philadelphia and one other*
In the case of the Old Trappe, no one could for a moment are amongst the rarities of our architectural treasures, and
question its foreign origin, its antiquity or its general in- their quaintness is unquestionably due to their following
terest, while the feeling that pervades the little church types less familiar to us now than those derived from Eng-
in Sleepy Hollow has been so imbibed and availed of by land, and simply go to impress once more on the observer
modern architects, there are so many thou-
sand just such little country ciiurches every-
where, that it is with difficulty one can bring
oneself to believe in its real antiquity, its
flavor is so very modern.
Architecturally more interesting than either
of these churches is Trinity,' the "Old Swedes
Church " at Wilmington, Del., built in 1698,
and still in admirable re-
pair and regular weekly use.
We call it interesting, not
only becau.se it to-day offers
a very picturesque effect, but
because the several additions
and restorations have been
so well conceived and skil-
fully adjusted that few would
imagine that the entire struc-
ture did not date from the
same and a single epoch.
Originally the church was a
mere parallelogram, without
tower, belfry or porcii ; still
the easternmost and perhaps
the other of the two tran-
The "Old Trappe" near Collegeville, Pa.
[I74!-]
septs, or one-time porches, on the north side are believed to
be nearly coeval with the body of the church, fiut the
tower was added only in 180;, and at that time the canted
hiproof at that end of the church wliich corresponded with
that which still covers the eastern end of the church was then, that just as these old church buildings are preserved
happily done away with, and the gable simply buts against and cherished with such tender solicitude by the descendants
what a very mixed origin the
American people has.
Not far away, at New
Castle, Del., is Immanuel
Church, built in 1705, and
an interesting type of the
churches built by English
congregations. It belongs
to the same class as Christ
Church at Williamsburg,
Va., and Christ Church,
Alexandria, and its tower, in
comparison with the belfried
towers of the Pennsylvania Dutch districts
and the New England spired towers, as
typified by Park Street Church,' Boston,
and Trinity Church,^ Newport, forms, as it
were, a middle term between the two. So
many associations of a varied and always
tender kind cluster about a church fabric
that it is particularly easy to keep it in ex-
stence and, from the many interested, pro-
cure the needed money to keep it always
in repair. Perhaps the most significant in-
stance of this appreciation is the refusal
within a year by the congregation of St. Paul's Church, Bos-
ton, to part with that building — not a very antiquated one —
and its site for a million and a half of dollars, so that a great
temple of trade might be built in its place. It is to be hoped,
the tower in the most natural manner possible. Later, only
some fifty years ago, the south porch, with its big round arch,
was added, not for pride of architectural effect, but because
it was found necessary to buttress the south wall, which was
of the original congregations, and just as the various socie-
ties of Sons and Daughters of the Revolution and similar
patriotic bodies are preserving, repairing and converting to
museum purposes those semi-public buildings and houses
'Thk Oi.i> Tkai'I'K. — Thi.s. the oldest Lutheran churcli in the
country, was l)uilt, at a valuation of >i.ooo. for Henry iMtlchior
Mulilcnberj; in 1 743. and stands now practically as it was then.
The structure is of stone stuccoed, and nic-asurcs 39' x 54', and
that the structure niij;lu not cost more than llic sum appropriated
even the women helped in tlie Uuililinji of it. For one luindrud
and twenty-five years it was regularly used lor .Sunday and week-
day services, but since the huildinj; of a larger church only one
service each year is held in tire ancient building.
'Tl!K Si.r-:i:i'Y [loi.i.ow Ciii'ut h. — This churcli, whicli is now
u.sed only in the summer time. and. in a sense, is under tlie guard-
ianship of the \'onkers Historical and Library Association, was
built .soon after r6.So at the instigation of Katrina, second wife of
Frederick I'hilipsc. the first Lord of tlie .Manor, or I'atroon.of tlie
Manor of Tarrytown.
'See l'lates4-5,l'art I.\.
* Christ (Swkdksj Cnf[(cn, L'ppfk Mkriox Township.—
This building, the tliird of the early triad of united Swedisli
Lutheran churches, of wliiili (doria Dei. in I'liiladclphia. and the
Old .Swedes ('Irinity) Church at Wilmington are tlie otlier two.
was built in 1760. Up to 1831 the pastors were sent out from
Sweden. 'I'he Lpiscopal ritual has been followed since that time.
5See Plate 18, I'art IX.
" Tkinity Ciumu II, Ni:wpouT, K. I. — Althougli the spire of
Trinity Church (Plates 19-22, Part L\) is certainly graceful, tlie
rest of the fabric, including tlie tower, is so severely ])Iain that it is
doubtful whether, ]ilaced in any other town than Newport, it would
ever liave attracted much attention. Put, thanks to its being one
of the features of a fashionable summer resort, admiration for
Trinitv Church as a piece of architecture has become a cult, and
it is jirobably a better-known building, architecturally speaking,
than the Old South Church, Boston, itself, by and under which
thousands upon thousands of unseeing eyes pass daily. Trinity
was built in 1726, hut by whom designed, even devoted antiquary
that he was, Mr. C.eorge C. Ma.son, an architect of ,\ew|)ort, was,
we believe, unable to di.scover. /Mthough in 1762 the church was
sawed in two and lengthened, so as to about double its original
capacity, it has lieen carefully watched, and until the recent intro-
duction (if memorial stained-glass windows nothing had been done
to impair the original effect and character of the interior tinish
adequately represented on Plates 20-22.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
which, like "Stenton,"' the home of James Logan, in Phila- Itnown than any other part of this broad country. The
delphia, have an historical and architectural worth, some German movement penetrated this region from Pennsylvania,
similar organization will take it upon themselves to preserve and amongst other of the places settled by Germans at that
the interesting buildings in Pennsyl-
vania once occupied by communal
sectaries of one kind or another.
The Harmonists are in a flourishing
condition, and so the interesting build-
ings at Economy, Pa., are likely to be
properly cared-for for a long time to
come ; but there are other places that
are deserving of care, such as the
buildings of the Monastic Society, or
Seventh Day Baptist monks and nuns
at Snow Hill, in Quincy township. Pa.,
where, as the last member of the So-
ciety died in 1893, mere caretakers
now give to the monastery, mill and
farm-buildings a questionable amount
of attention.
(Jld Doorway, Economy, Pa.
time, Salem, settled by the Moravians
in 1765, must be, if accounts are true,
amongst the most interesting archi-
tecturally of the several settlements
made by the sect. The church is said
to be peculiarly interesting and
quaint, partly because of the effect of
the exceedingly small windows in the
thick walls, high up, so that no Indian
could shoot an arrow through some
devotee as he listened to the weekly
admonition of the pastor. There is
evidently a good deal of " local color "
at Salem which would make it worth
one's while to attend the Easter festi-
val there, share the " coffee and sweet
buns," and listen to the melodious
Perhaps other people do not share our idiosyncrasy, and hymns, psalms and chorals with which the trombone players
so are perennially cognizant of tlie fact that North Carolina at the same time usher in the Easter sun and rouse the
Ttle "William Penn*' Tavern, Delaware County, Pa.
is one of the States of the Union, but we cannot help feeling
that the State and the towns and villages therein are less
inhabitants from their slumbers for the annual celebration.
But it is bootless and almost impossible to particularize
•"Stentox," near Pun.ADKt.rniA, Pa. — It is only natural
that the various patriotic orders and societies which in such
numbers have sprung into being in the last decade should be
mainly interested in effecting the preservation of sites and build-
ings that have primarily an historic significance, and a large num-
ber of the buildings that they have preserved, or by a tablet have
indicated the original site thereof, have atisoUitely no architectural
value. To offset these now and then one is preserved which
should have had the fosterina; care of some one, and the fortuitous
liappening that a Ijuilding of arcliitectural worth owes its preserva-
tion to the accidents of history ratlier than to its deserts as the
outcome of artistic effort makes us none die less grateful to those
who have accomplished it, no matter whether respect for history,
pride of family or love of art were the motive.
The Society of Colonial Dames of Pennsylvania, which furnishes
the illustrations on Plate 12, a year or two ago secured the right
to restore and preserve " .Stenton," the house built in 1728 by
James Logan, first secretary to William Penn and later Secretary
of the Province, President of the Council, Acting Governor of
the Province and Cliief Justice of the Supreme Court of Penn-
sylvania for many years.
Its right to preservation as the scene of many an historic in-
cident is as little to be questioned as that of its value as a sign-
post on our road of architectural progress.
DUTCH AND GERMAN EIGIirEENTH-CENTURY WORK.
the interesting buildings that grew from the German move- find in many directions an abundance of structures erected
ment. Pennsylvania,' Virginia and North Carolina* are old in the early and middle part of the eighteenth century,
States, and it is a peculiarity of Pennsylvania that, whereas though few would be discovered having any recognizable
The " Red Lion " Tavern, Philadelphia County, Pa. [1730.]
in other States frame buildings were normally used, here a element of design that would lead one to class them with the
great part of the buildings, of all kinds, were erected in " Old Colonial " buildings which chiefly concern us.
stone, au nalurei, or covered with stucco, as the case might It is perhaps fortunate that Pennsylvania buildings are so
Details from House for Robert Morris. G. JardcUa, Sculptor.
be, and so, being substantial, have lasted practically un- generally built of stone, for it is evidently because of this that
changed to our day. So it is possible in Pennsylvania to there has come down to us in good condition a very interesting
*Oi-D Paxtaxg Chukch, Harrisiuk(;, 1'a. — 'Iliis little stone
building in the outskirts of the city was built in 1740, and was
intended for. and was aitiiallv more than once used a.s, a lilock-
house in which to take refuge in case ol attack by Indians.
'GoVKRNOH Tkvon's 1'ai,A(K. — .\s North Carolina is an old
State, and in I'roviiitial days was regarded, niuch as \'irginia was, as
a desirable plate for younger .sons and roving spirits to settle down
in and sow tlieir wild oats, it h.id its good sot iety. and the nienil)ers
of it had their fine houses, so the Stale |)rol)alily offers more to
the architectural investijcator than merely the interesting buildings
of the Moravians. One of the most ambiliotis houses of tlie day
undertaken anvwhere was the palace l)iiilt by (lovernor 'Iryon,
at New Heme (1765-71^10 serve as official residence for himself
and such later royal governors as would, in course of time, come
out from I'.ngland. Of this palace, whicli consisted of a main
building Hanked upon either siele by smaller structures, these being
one the servants" quarters and the other the stables, both connected
witli the main house by curved colonnades, there remains now only
traces of one wall of the main house and the " Royal .Stables,"
wliich latter is in fairly good preservation, thanks to the fact that,
the horses gone, their home had been converted into a scliool-hou.se.
Of course all, or nearly all. of the material used in building the
I'alace was imported from f-ngland and worked up into a structure
tliat cost tlie people 56o,ooo — an enormous cost in tliose days —
for, of course, the Governor taxed upon the people the cost of his
oliicial residence. A rear view, based upon authorities unknown
to us, may be found on page 28.
24
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
relic of the great house, designed by I'Enfant, that Robert
Morris, " the financier of the Revolution," partly completed
on Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. Let into the face of the
second-story wall of a little stone house in Conshohocken,
just outside of Philadelphia, once occupied by James Tra-
quier, a stone-cutter and one of the contractors for Morris's
house, is a marble panel, sculptured in high relief by an
Italian sculptor, Giuseppe Jardella, who had been imported
to execute the carved work that was to adorn the great house.
The panel which, by the courtesy of the publishers of AIoiiu-
mental News, we here illustrate, is dedicated to the Fine-
Arts, or to Literature and Painting, and taken with the pair
The "Oak Tree" Tavern (now used as a Public ilalll, Montgomery County, Pa.
of great marble Ionic capitals that stand in the yard behind
tlie house — which adjoins the quarry from which the marble
was taken — indicates how serious a loss it was to the archi-
tectural records of the country when disaster overtook the
great financier, and his lordly house in its unfinished state
was itself converted into a prison to relieve the overcrowded
state of the jail in which its former owner was at that time
lodged.
Men of business as well as men of peace, the Quakers of
Philadelphia were the connecting link between the farmers
and trappers of the interior and the mother country, and in
prosecution of their business they and others had to travel
widely over the State, and as Pennsylvania is not as well
served with rivers as is Virginia, their journeys had to be
taken on horseback or in some form of vehicle. Along the
travelled roads, then, that were thus created in every di-
rection there were established after they had become stage-
routes, numerous inns and taverns, many of which, being as
substantially built as other buildings of the time and district,
still exist, a few still serving as inns, and others converted to
different uses. These inns seem generally to have been kept
by English hosts, for the signboard that swung before the
inn usually bore a name and painted cognizance of the same
class as those that hung before many an old English inn,
The " Blue-bell " Tavern, Derby, Pa.
and we hear of " Red Lions," " White Horses," " Mariner's
Compasses," " Blue Boars," " Rising Suns," and so on, in
different directions. Perhaps the oldest of these inns now
extant is the "Jolly Post," on the Frankford Pike, built in
1680 ; but as the Lancaster Pike was the first turnpike road
in the State, some of the many inns along its length may be
older yet.
As many of these taverns are associated with historic
events, and many of them, as the Paoli Inn, are extremely
picturesque and interesting, a very readable monograph,
illustrated with cuts of greater or less architectural value,
might be founded upon them.
Old Dutch Inn, Kingston, N. Y.
The University of Virginia.'
IN a paper dealing with the construction of the University
of Virginia it is hard to confine the description wholly
to material construction and omit all reference to the
spiritual organization of the University, as its peculiar
foundation demanded peculiar housing.
Complete organization as an academic body resulted only
after forty years of hard study of architectural systems and
foundations of Europe, years of heart-breaking opposition to
the founder and his theories, of almost superhuman patience
and endeavor on his side to so modify them as to make for
the enlightenment and
liberties of his people.
Thomas Jefferson,
first pioneer, incorpo-
rated in our own Gov-
ernment the great prin-
ciples of human right,
which are siill working
for the advancement of
man. He held th it
the permanency of our
institutions depended
upon a true education
of our people. And he
made use of the oppor-
tunities which high
offices of state at home
and abroad gave him,
to study different edu-
cational methods with
that exhaustive scru-
tiny which he brought
to bear upon every subject which he chose to investigate.
The greatest work of his life was the foundation of the Uni-
versity of Virginia, upon lines then new in the field of letters.
1 Portion of a paper de.scriptive of the re.storation of the Library
and the new buildings of the University of \'irginia read before
the Boston Society of Architects in the winter of igoo.
1* Jefferson's Tomi!STOm:. — This tombstone, wliicli was re-
moved to make room for the monument voted by Congress in
1882, was presented by tlie Messrs. Randolpli. Jefferson's residuarv
legatees, to the University of Missouri, at Columliia. Mo., and now
stands on the campus of that University, bearing still its original
inscription: —
"Here was buried Thomas Jefferson, .Author of
the Declaration of Independence, of the .Statute
of \irginia for religious freedom and Fatlier of the
University of Virginia."
i'ruftssor's House: No 2 West Lawn.
On his tombstone- he is fittingly called the "Father of the
University of Virginia." And father he was in every sense,
not simply the originaor of its system of discipline and its
curriculum, but the planner and modeller of its outward
forms, which were unique at that time, and to-day are inter-
esting and rarely beautiful.
The original drawings prepared by Thomas Jefferson for
the buildings of the University are preserved as heirlooms
in the Randolph family, at Charlottesville, Va. They are
drawn on scraps of paper of all sizes and kinds, partly in
pencil, partly in ink;
at a very small scale,
but with considerable
skill. On the reverse
side of the sheets are,
usually, notes upon the
materials to be used, or
estimates of quantities,
and architectural de-
tails. While e.\amin-
ing these papers one
realizes that this insti-
lution was entirely the
product of one man's
mind. He not only
drew the plans and
made estimates for
every important feature
of this group of Uni-
versity buildings, but
in addition he trained
brickmoulders, and had
brick made on the campus, taught masons and carpenters
their trades, designed tools and implements for all his men,
and established in his own yard a forge where all nails, bolts
In the autumn of 1901, the Jefferson Club of St. Uouis made a
pilgrimage to '• Monticello." and in compensation for the gift made
in 1882, and to mark as well their visit and their admiration for
Jefferson's career, erected a red-granite shaft on the house-grounds,
bearing this inscription : —
THd.MAS JKFFKKSO.X.
Citizen, statesman, patriot ;
the greatest advocate of human liberty opposing
special privileges, he loved and trusted the jieople.
TO CO.M.MKMORATK HIS I'UKCH.ASh:
OF LOUISIA.X.A.
lOrected by the Jefferson Club of St. I.ouis, Mo.,
on their pilgrimage, October 12, 1901.
To expre.ss their devotion to his principles.
26
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
and ironwork used were turned out under his direction by
his own household slaves. He imported skilled workmen
from Italy to carve the capitals of his columns from native
stone. Discovering this stone to be friable, Italian marble
was imported. Caps and shafts for the Rotunda columns
were gotten out of the Carrara quarries. But the caps alone
c-ame to this country, as the columns proved too heavy for
of the same. At the rear of the room is a window opposite
to the doors, which open from under continuous arcades
directly into the rooms, just as those facing the Lawn are
entered under the colonnades.
The spaces between the Ranges and the Lawn were cut
up into yards in which the most primitive sanitaries were
arranged. The dividing-walls, some of which are still stand-
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shipment in those days, and lay for many years at the quar-
ries without a market.
Plate 7, taken from an engraved survey made in 1856,
shows the Jefferson group of buildings as completed in
1826. Sites for these were found on a commanding hill by
levelling its top and terracing its southern slope. The
Rotunda, or library, was placed on the highest point and, on
each side of an axis drawn through its centre north and
south, the other build-
ings were laid out in
four parallel rows, with
wide open spaces be-
tween them. The cen-
tral space, called " The
Lawn," has ten houses
faced upon it, each of
two stories, generally
with Classic porticos.
Each house has two
one-story wings, con-
taining five rooms.
These ten houses
were planned with large
lecture-rooms on the
ground-floors, and ac-
commodations for the
lecturers and their fami-
lies on the second floors.
The families now oc-
cupy all the rooms, and
the lectures are held in other buildings. The wing rooms
were designed for students' quarters, and are still so used.
These rooms, like monastic cells, are entered directly from
the colonnades, which are continuous across the front of the
several houses and bind them into one harmonious whole.
The other rows of buildings are called " The Ranges."
The larger buildings at the ends are students' hotels, the
central ones are officers' lodgings and lecture-rooms, while
the intermediate ones are cut up into students' rooms.
These last, being designed for two, are about 12 feet square,
and have a fireplace on one side, with a closet on each side
Professor's House: No. 2 East Lawn,
Professor's House: No. 5 East Lawn.
ing, were built of one thickness of brick, along waving lines,
to make them stable. By this device many thousands of
brick were saved, with strong and decidedly picturesque
walls as the result.
A comparison of Mr. Jefferson's original drawings with
photographs of tlie buildings as they stand to-day serve
to show how closely the original sketches were followed,
and also how much they were bettered in execution. The
porticos were all pro-
portioned, and details
of the orders taken,
from Palladio's great
work on architecture.
The walls are of red
brick, the columns and
shafts of brick covered
with stucco, the caps
and bases of stone or
marble, and the cor-
nices, window-frames,
sills and lintels are of
wood with ornaments
of hammered lead and
putty. Everything ex-
cept the brick is painted
white.
The Rotunda was
planned after the
Roman Pantheon ex-
teriorly, but was only
one-half the diameter, therefore one-eighth the volume. By
the drawings, it was intended to be exactly circumscribed
about a sphere. The interior was cut up into three stories,
the first two into elliptical rooms quaintly interlocked, the
third a rotunda with a colonnade of coupled columns, deep
alcoves and a great dome overhead.
As this dome was entirely of wood, the steps on the out-
side decayed in time, were removed by some superintendent
of buildings to save repair, and the dome left, showing above
the attic as an unbroken sphere, except for the eye and
skylight at the top.
THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA.
27
Views of the house' which Jefferson built for himself will
add to the appreciation of his work as an architect. " Mon-
ticello " was completed in 18 10, some years before the Uni-
versity buildings were begun, but it is of the same style, with
brick walls and cornices of wood, all detail being copied
from good Classic examples, but modified by the workmen
and exigency of the materials.
The Rotunda of the University was not completed until
after Mr. Jefferson's death, he only living to see the com-
pletion of the Lawn and Ranges and to see the first capital of
the south portico set in place. About i860 an annex was
Professor's House: No. i East Lawn.
built to accommodate the rapidly-growing schools, and pro-
vide a public hall. This was a five or six story building
added at the north of the Rotunda, with a portico on the ex-
treme north, like a parody of the original one on the south.
Its height was masked by a terrace of rough stone, quite
artistic in its effect.
In October, 1895, the Rotunda and its annex burned. A
period of depression and anxiety followed. Two hundred
and fifty thousand dollars was subscribed, some mistakes
were made, but, finally, the Board of Visitors selected McKim,
Mead & White, of New York, as the gentlemen best qualified
to restore the Rotunda and to plan the new buildings which
should be built to house the several schools. The architects,
admiring greatly the work of Mr. Jefferson, desired to restore
the Rotunda exteriorly to its original lines, and to so place
and design the new buildings as to emphasize the Jefferson
group. I quote in part from their report when submitting
their plans : —
" The scheme contemplates the erection of the Academic
Building, the Physics Building, the Mechanical Building, with
sites for a Law Building and Hall of Languages, on a new
'lawn,' and for other buildings allowing for future expan-
sion in this direction. The plans for the Jefferson Rotunda
contemplate its exact restoration as far as the exterior is con-
cerned, with the exception of the rear, which has come down
in an unfinished state, and for which some new treatment in
harmony with the old had to be devised. The interior is
thrown into one large rotunda. The low terraced wings on
the front of the building are repeated at the rear, and these
» Plates 8-1 1, Part IX.
new wings are connected to the old ones by colonnades,
forming two courts, to be completed now or at some future
time. This gives, adjacent to the library, two additional class-
rooms. The scheme presented contemplates the retaining
of the terrace of the destroyed addition, and the turning of
the sunken part into a garden.
" To the question of the remodelling of the interior of the
Rotunda, we have given most careful study. Reasons of
sentiment would point to the restoration of the interior
exactly as it stood, but the dedication of the entire Rotunda
to use as a library, and the unquestionable fact that it was
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only practical necessity which forced Jefferson at the time it
was built to cut the Rotunda into two stories, and that he
would have planned the interior as a simple, single and noble
room had he then been able to do so, induces us strongly to
urge upon your Board the adoption of a single domed room,
as presented, not only as the most practical, but the proper
treatment of the interior.
" The scheme submitted contemplates the restoration of the
Rotunda as a fireproof building throughout. The site for
the new buildings completing the College Close we believe
to be the only one, both on rational and sentimental grounds.
The character of the land, falling away on the southern side
of the road, allows the Academic Building and the Physical
and Mechanical Buildings to appear as only one story in
height, whereas on account of the steep grade they actually
count for practical use as two. The charm of the present
Close and the domination of the Rotunda are therefore pre-
served. It is impossible, with the amount of money avail-
able for the University, to build these new buildings fireproof.
We do not, however, consider this as seriously advisable as
in the case of the Rotunda. The plans as submitted for these
buildings contemplate the use of fireproof-floors wherever
they seem advisable, and as the boilers and the entire heat-
ing and electric-lighting apparatus are removed to a separate
building, the danger from fire is reduced to a minimum."
Guastavino tile-construction was adopted for use in the
Rotunda as being best suited to the designs, and it stands
to-day as fireproof a structure as there is anywhere. There
are no furred ceilings or false forms. Everywhere the con-
struction form shows. Theodore H. Skinner.
The Cape Fear River District, N. C.
ONE of the most interesting sections of North
Carolina, so far as concerns architecture of the
Colonial period, is that on the Cape Fear River,
beginning at the city of Wilmington and extend-
ing seaward to near the river's nioutii. In tlie city itself,
which began its existence about the year 1730, — under the
name of Liverpool, and in 1739 adopting its present name,
Wilmington, — there are a number of Colonial houses, but only
two built in the eighteenth century of attractive architec-
tural appearance. Both of these buildings are situated on
Third Street, and are not far apart, being separated only by
the width of the street. The best preserved (now owned
and occupied by a Mrs. McCrary) has its most important
historic association in the fact that it was the headquarters
of Lord Cornwallis, Commander of the British forces during
the Revolutionary War.
This mansion is of wood, two stories in heiglit, and has
not much in the way of ornamental feature — save the
two verandas, each with six Ionic columns — but the general
effect is pleasing. There is a one-story rear extension to the
house; and, at the main gables, there are large chimneys.
The other Colonial building, opposite the McCrary house,
leading through a bay from the river-landing up to the mansion.
Farther down stream, 14 miles from, the river's mouth, is
Orton Plantation, a place rich in historic and legendary lore.
It took its name from a village in England, and was first
owned by Maurice Moore, the grandson of Governor Sir
John Yeamans and son of Governor James Moore of South
Carolina, who, in 17 11, came to North Carolina to aid in
suppressing the Tuscaloosa Indian outbreak. The planta-
tion, now owned by Col. K. M. Murchison, consists of 10,000
acres, and upon one of its most commanding and beautiful
hills there stands the " Mansion House," a venerable struct-
ure built about the year 1725 by "King" Roger Moore,
brother of the original proprietor of Orton.
The building — wliich has been to some extent improved
since the days of "King Roger" — can easily be seen from
the river; it presents a most picturesque appearance, lifting
its lofty roof amidst old trees, while its glistening whiteness
makes striking contrast with the abundant surrounding ver-
dure. Four huge columns rise from the deep veranda, which
extends across the wiiole front of the building, unobstructed
to the high, overhanging front gable that makes the veranda
covering. The central (front) entrance projects from the
^^'"■^'W?^
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was the ancient home of the De Rosset family, and, a hun- wall, and, at the top, there is a railed balcony, v On each ;
dred years later, used as headquarters for the Confederate side and above this are large windows. The side-walls rise
generals commanding the lower Cape Fear district. sheer from ground to roof, two stories high, the large win-
This structure is of brick, made in England. It is three dows alone relieving the bare surface. The roof saddles the
stories in height, oblong, square in main body, with a low, structure, rising fairly sharp and without ornament,
sloping back extension. In front there is a wide veranda. This edifice (it looks like a church or other public build
having square columns, which support a balconied top; and
from this the brick (front) wall, relieved only by large win-
dows, rises to meet the shallow eaved roof. The latter is of
the ordinary gabled-end kind, but each gable is surmounted
by a very wide chimney.
A few miles from Wilmington, oceanward and near the
Cape Fear River, are the ruins of the finest of Cape Fear
Colonial mansions. Tliis was "Sedgely Abbey," built in
ing) was built of brick brought from Etigland; but, though
made of clav, it is grand in its massive simplicity, and is an
ideal specimen of old Southern plantation dwellings.
In the Orton neighborhood, about half a mile from the
Murchison residence, are the ruins of Colotiial Governor
Tryon's "palace," — a square, two-story structure built of
English brick, — a spot of national historical importance from
tile fact that here occurred the first overt act of violence
1726 by an English gentleman of great wealth, Maxwell by in the Revolutionary War, about eight years before the people
name, who owned miles of property in this section of the of Boston had their famous Tea-party.
country. The mansion was large and of much architectural
pretension, and was built of coquina. On its east side,
toward the sea, there was a wide oak-bordered avenue whicli
extended a distance of 1,500 feet, and was approached over a
corduroy road, still in evidence and bordered with fine trees,
Though there is in the present aspect of this historical
place little to suggest the old-time grandeur of Tryon's
palace and its surroundings, it is safe to say that that ancient
governor was " well fixed," and a royal liver.
l,<iMES Eastus Price.
2&
Charleston, between Ashley and Cooper.
THE Charleston '■ we know to-day presents, archi-
tecturally, a quaint mixture of French and English
ideas, together with some of the more salient ones
of old San Domingo, in the way of exaggerated
verandas and high brick walls, thrown in for good measure.
tants, the English Cavalier and the French Huguenot, both
of whom represented people of pronounced opinions as to
what constituted domestic comfort and elegance. The San
Domingo feeling came naturally and regularly enough, too,
along with a lot of wealthy immigrants from the West Indian
Entrance to tlte Bull House, Bull Street, Charleston, S. C.
The first two of these »/(?///> — the French and the English — Islands who made their homes in Charleston, where the
were inherited, naturally enough, from its earliest inhabi- climate was not totally unlike that left behind them, and
'Charleston. — Charleston was settled in 1680 .by English
Colonists under Col. William Sayle, and called New Cliarles-
Town because of abortive attempts to found earlier cities o£ the
same name in the same general locality as far back as 1670. Its
geographical position is similar to that of Manhattan Island in
that it is bounded on either side by rivers of considerable width
— the Cooper to the east and the Ashley to the west — ■ and faces
the harbor to the southeast.
30
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
proceeded to make themselves comfortable in their own
way.
The houses built by these immigrants were usually spacious,
with enormous two and three story covered verandas as
special features, though quite lacking in interior adornment.
They were commonly surrounded by large grounds around
which high brick walls were built, after the manner of that
surrounding the Simonton residence ' on Lcgare Street, which,
with its great iron gateway,^ is one of tlie show-places of the
city. These walls afforded the greatest privacy — a thing
always of paramount importance with Charlestonians — and
allowed the outsider no glimpse of the well-arranged garden
within with its gay
masses of odorous opo-
ponax, reve d'or roses
and tropical palmetto
bushes, among which
the women of the fam-
ily wandered informally
at pleasure — or, if
any, just a tantalizing
peep through the richly
wrought entrance-
gates.
Although these San
Domingo houses had
no feeling of Classi-
cism, toward which the
Cavaliers and their de-
scendants, being men
of culture and wide
social experience, were
greatly inclined, they
were so practical and
comfortable, so thor-
oughly adapted to the
demands of the climate
and the hospitable life
of the South, and so
much less expensive,
on the whole, than
Georgian houses of the
type of the Miles Brew-
ton house, ° built in
1765; and the Lord
William Campbell
house* on Meeting
Street, that, little by
little, the style became
almost universal
among the masses as
well as the classes. So
much so that, modified,
amplified, and beautified by French or English ideas of
adornment, it became in due time — high walls, great gate-
ways, and all — what might accurately be called the Charles-
' SiMONTOx. — The Simonton residence was built some time be-
tween 1740 and 1770, and at that time, as tlie original plan shows,
the garden attached to tlie premises was laid out. The wall was
built by a silk merchant, Lorentz, who purchased the property
toward the end of the eighteenth century. The gate was a some-
what later structure, and is said to have been the work of a Ger-
man, by the name of Werner, who was a genius in ironwork.
2 Plates 29. 30, Part X.
'I'lates lS-26, Part -V.
* Page 38, l^art X.
si'late 2, I'art X.
. — r<^--VVT/(J2«Z>W
Gateway on the East Battery. Charleston.
ton type, and continued its vogue — despite the seductive
influence of the Greek revival, which began to make its in-
fluence felt at the beginning of the nineteenth century —
until the Civil War.
These typical houses were situated in two different man-
ners, the more popular of which was to turn an end of the
house to the streef, running it up on a line with the sidewalk,
leaving a seemingly endless expanse of veranda to open on a
side garden. A perfect illustration of this method of locating
a residence is afforded by the George Edmondson house ' on
Legare Street, now owned by Capt. J. Adger Smythe. Here
the dwelling itself presents on first sight the average appear-
ance of a town-house)
with a simple but well
designed entrance from
the street. By peering
about carefully, how-
ever, through the vines
and trees and seeking
the proper position for
a good view, the formal
front, or side, to speak
more properly, is found
to be but a mask
for a characteristically
Southern mansion of
extraordinary size, sur-
rounded by an exten-
sive garden shut off
from the street by a
high wall of brick, wood
and iron, the feature of
which is a remarkably
fine gateway' which, in
connection with the
grilled entrance, forms
a continuous design.
This doorway, by the
way, does not lead into
the house proper, as
one might imagine, but
— after the manner of
most Charleston door-
ways — up several
steps on the inside to
the first floor of the
veranda, the existence
of which a stranger
passing by. the appar-
ent front would not
suspect.
The other "man-
ner '' referred to placed
the house in the midst of large grounds some distance
from the 'street. Although here again it was sometimes
turned endwise, it was more generally given a full front to the
' The Edmondson gateway has served as a model for manv
others in Charleston and elsewhere, none of wliich, however, equal
the original in beauty. The wrought-iron work was imported
from England with the initials of the builder as features of the
grillework on either side of the doorway. The fashion of intro-
ducing such initials in wrought-iron trimmings prevailed in Char-
leston, an example of which is also furnished by the entrance to
the Nathaniel Russell house on Meeting Street,* which was built
about I 790, and also by the veranda railing of an old antiquities
shop on Queen Street.
* Plate 12, PartX.
CHARLESTON, BETWEEN ASHLEY AND COOPER.
31
thoroughfare, as in the case of the De Saussure house on the accommodation of an average sized family. The pushing
South Battery. As a rule, too, they were built after the of these houses upward instead of spreading them outward
general plan of this house — three stories high, with a three- over a larger area, while it added to their coolness — a thing
story columned veranda stretching across the entire front most to be desired in a hot climate — certainly produced very
upon which the full-length
windows of the rooms open.
From the house a wide sandy
walk leads down to the
carriage-gate, flanked on one
side by a smaller gate where
the family enters and where
visitors pause to ring a bell,
and on the other by the
servants' entrance.
The interior arrangement
of these huge old San Do-
mingo houses is exceedingly
simple, consisting, as a rule,
of a central hall, with one
great room on either side of
it supplied with long windows
to catch the breeze. Having
KITCHEN'
Plan of the Nathaniel Russell House.
outre and remarkable effects;
which, on the whole, however,
are unique though ungainly,
and sometimes positively
baronial and a trifle awful,
as in the case of the Holmes
house on East Battery,"
which, though slightly differ-
ent in form, illustrates the
same idea of construction
and in which the style may
be said to have reached its
extremest limit. This house
was built by James Gadsden
Holmes, Sr., in 1818, and
was until long after the war
(during which, being white
and the highest building on
only two rooms to a floor with an occasional one or two the Battery, it was used for target practice by the Federals
story L to the rear and the servants' quarters in an addition and frequently hit) the residence of his family, by members
to the right or left (see quarters to Ue Saussure house') it of which it is still owned. For years, however, it has been
A Doorway in the Nathaniel Russell House.
became necessary to add numerous stories to the original practically deserted while seeking a purchaser. The great
one in order to secure the number of apartments needed for rooms are bare except for stray bits of old mahogany
> Plate 4, Part X. ' I'late 6, I'art X.
32
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
furniture, most of the wood of which, by the way, came from
San Domingo. In the dusty, webby old arched dining-room,
for instance, stands an antique sideboard of simple design
but good wood and excellent workmanship, with its doors
aimlessly open — left behind as a thing of no value. A
curious old desk is in the hall with a leaded glass case above
for books and three large drawers below, the top one of
which lets down to form a writing-shelf. In the octagon
drawing-room above the arched entrance several old family
portraits lean wearily against the wall — two by Copley and
one by Flagg ; and in the attic, up five long flights of stairs,
half concealed by a lot of old Edinburgh Reviews of 1S12-14
and other dilapidated books which speak plainly of the cul-
tured tastes of those who once inhabited the rooms below,
lies an old satinwood four-poster, one standard of which has
features of the homes of the rich in old Charleston. In
them the celebrated "Jockey Club" and "Belvedere"^ and
other madeiras for which the city was so famous were stored,
as the action of the sun on the roof produced a higher tem-
perature than could have been obtained in a subterranean
closet and the slight motion of the house was considered
desirable during fermentation.
From the roof of the Holmes house one may enjoy a per-
fect view of the city of Charleston, from the green fertile
islands lying beyond the harbor to the south, far up the
Ashley and Cooper Rivers to the nonh, with the Wrenesque
spire of St. Michael's standing up white and clear against
the vivid blue of the sky — less delicate in outline, however,
than the more recent spire of St. Philip's, not far away.
The oldest part of the city of Charleston, as laid out by
^<r;2;^/y.y,/,j;;»^,^,^,^.,,
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■ JuiutorS Entrance Lod^e • Charle5tor» College
Charleston SC •
[17831
poked itself through the open door of an attic wine-closet
there.
Attic wine-closets, by the way, are among the many unique
1 According to the earliest records, madeira was the common
drink in Charleston in 1763. In tlie middle of the eighteentli
century it became fashional)le in England owing to the recom-
mendation of officers who had served in the West Indies and
America. It became customary to sliip the wine from Madeira
to the West Indies and tlience to America to improve its taste.
This journeying, in a measure, took the place of submitting the
wines to a high temperature in stone buildings. The early
shippers found that the climate of Charleston was especially
adapted to mellowing the wine and imparting to it tliat peculiar
bouquet and flavor so prized by connoisseurs and stored large
quantities of it there. .So famous, in fact, was the wine of old
Charleston that tlie British Consul was instructed to purchase
wine for the (Queen's table there and annually did so, selecting it
John Culpepper in 1680 and presented for the first time in a
map drawn by Edward Crisp in 1704, extended from the sea
on the south to what was formerly a creek on the north,
from the cellars of private gentlemen. Much fine old wine is still
stored in the cellars of the rich and aristocratic families of
Charleston, though it is rapidly disappearing. The oldest wine
known there now is in the possession of the Blake familv and is
146 years old. The Hlake wine is known historically as the
" Earthquake wine," having been brought to Charleston the year
of the great Lisbon earthquake, 1755. Ur. Gabriel Manigault
had, prior to his deatli, a few dozen bottles of the celebrated
" Belvedere," named from the vessel that brought it from Madeira
in 1838. There is still a quantitv of "Jockey Club" madeira in
Charleston held, under a perhaps mistaken faith in its keeping
ciualities, at exorbitant prices. It is so called because at the
Jockey Club balls, instituted more than a century ago, it was
the brand served.
CHARLESTON, BETWEEN ASHLEY AND COOPER.
33
where the celebrated Charleston market ^ now stands, which
was established as early as 1788, although the present
market-house was not built until 1841. On the east it was
bounded by Cooper River and extended west as far as Meet-
ing Street, at ine extreme limit of which stood what was then
a public market, with St. Philip's Church — which was the
first English church in South Carolina — on the site where
St. Michael's now stands. From this point, which may now
be pointed out as the corner of Meeting and Broad Streets, to
the Battery, streets intersected each other, consisting of eight
in all and one alley, namely : Tradd Street, Elliot Street,
Broad and Queen Streets running east and west; and Bay,
Union (now State), Church and Meeting Streets running
north and south.
Tradd Street, a quaint, narrow, silent thoroughfare paved
days, was a social thoroughfare. Church Street, at right-
angles, not far away, was equally so.
Any one interested in the architectural characteristics of
Charleston should enter this historic roadway at the Bat-
tery, from which it takes its narrow and winding course past
old iron gateways and high brick walls, overgrown with
cypress-vine and Virginia creeper ; under the projecting hoods
of doorways, toward the heart of the city, crossing at intervals
streets equally quaint and curious. Looking down Longi-
tude Lane and St. Michael's Alley one could almost imagine
one's self in old Havana, while down Tradd or Queen
Street, toward East Bay, there are features that suggest the
French Quarter of New Orleans.
East Bay Street itself, with its wharves, storehouses and
dilapidated old dwellings, now turned into tenements and fast
Tlie College of Cliarleston.
with cobble-stones, is to-day one of the most interesting sights
afforded the student of Coloniana visiting Charleston. A
plain old house that formerly stood at the corner of Tradd
and East Bay was the residence of Robert Tradd, from whom
the street took its name and in which the first native child
was bcrn. Not far away, on the southwest corner of East
Bay and Longitude Lane, the pretentious dwelling of Land-
grave Thomas Smith used to stand, on a lot in the rear of
which the first rice in South Carolina is believed to have been
planted as far back as 1693. On the north side of Tradd
Street, about midway between Church and East Bay Streets,
the old Carolina Coffee-house still stands. In its day this
was the leading fashionable hotel in the city. The Governor
and his staff lodged there and it was the scene of all the
public dinners given to strangers. Tradd Street, iti the old
' See illustration, pa^^e 49.
going to ruin, many of them being already wholly uninhabit-
able, is curiously unlike any modern street in any modern
town, although, at one time, it was a favorite residence sec-
tion of the rich, fronting, as it does, toward both Cooper
River and the sea. One of the notable houses of this vicinity
stands on the corner of Laurens and East Bay Streets, sur-
rounded by the remains of what was once a garden, part
of which is now used as a city dumping-ground. This house,"
which was formerly bare of its present verandas, was built
about 1770 by Henry Laurens, the first President of the Con-
tinental Congress, Minister Plenipotentiary to Holland, a
friend of Washington's, and one of our most picturesque
national characters. Just across the street from it is Hey-
ward house,' one of the many in Charleston built by
' See cut, page 34.
« Mates lo-i 1, Part X.
34
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
members of that distinguished family, another of which is ing) as for their masterly construction. Here also may be
just a stone's throw away, at 87 Church Street.' With its found an interesting display of wrought-iron railings, win-
great old gateway and Corinthian portico it is not easily dow-screens, brackets and other trimmings — in which, by
overlooked or forgotten, for it possesses, more than
Charleston houses, a peculiar and persistent ^(f/«W of its
The interior is almost
equally interesting. The
panelled drawing-room on
the second floor, overlook-
ing the river, is a charming
chamber with an atmos-
phere of nobler days; and
many of the mantels
throughout the house,
though greatly mutilated by
tenement renters, are ex-
cellent specimens, worthy
of preservation. Not far
away is the old Ball resi-
dence, and others equally
valuable as specimens of
brickwork and woodwork,
and often containing superb
old staircases,^ not so re-
markable for their adorn-
ment (Charleston staircases
most the way, Charleston is particularly rich as a city — some
own. of the designs of which are charmingly simple, others being
__^ highly elaborate and worthy
to rank with the best work
being almost invariably of plain mahogany, devoid of
of Queen Anne's reign.
Much of the simpler work
in wrought-iron — which,
on the whole, is more valu-
able than that which is
more elaborate, in that it is
more original — is said to
have been the work of an
old blind slave, who at one
time followed the black-
smith's calling in Charles-
ton.
The residences of old
Charleston which are still
preserved are, for the most
part, quite plain externally,
and of rather forbidding
mien. High walls enclose
their courtyards, over the
carv- tops of which the antique slave-quarters' — which with their
Judge Thomas Heyward's House, Cluircli Street.
iHkyward House. — -The Heyward house referred to on
Church .Street is now used as a bakery and is situated near the
corner of Tradd. It was the residence of Judge Thomas Hey-
ward, a signer o£ the Declaration of Independence and a friend of
George Washington's, who on liis Southern tour, in 1 791, was a
guest in this house. At that time it was one of the most splendid
residences in the city. A douljle-story veranda jutted out over
the street, said to have been similar in general style to that of the
Horry house, corner of Meeting and Tradd,* and the interior
furnishing was second to none in the city. The drawing-room on
the second floor is a fine chamber containing some interesting
features still in excellent preservation.
Mrs. ICdward Willis, a devoted Daughter of the Revolution,
placed a tablet on the house commemorating the visit of Washing-
ton.
•Plate 36, Part X.
' The Elliot Staircase. — One of the finest staircases in the
entire city is that of the old Klliot residence, which was built
before the Revolution, and is now the offices of the Charleston
Waterworks. This stairway of solid marble goes from basement
to attic, and without a support, except on the side towards the wall.
The upper story is one large room covering the entire building,
except the hall, and w'as built for a ball-room. The view from the
window looking seaward is as fine as there is in the city. On
the side of the main stairway is a private, or secret, stairwav, built
in the solid masonry, with an opening on each floor. Servants in
showing a guest would conduct him to the foot of the main stair-
way and, directing him up, would meet him at the landing on the
next floor, and so on to the upper story, or ball-room. No servant
was allowed to go up the main stairway with company.
» See cut of Horry slave-quarters, page 39.
CHARLESTON, BETWEEN ASHLEY AND COOPER.
35
red-tiled roofs are a touch of old Spain in the general scheme
of construction — are still to be seen. The dwelling and
quarters are usually of brick, the former being often rough-
cast. Occasionally, however, they were of black cypress, as
in the case of the old
Drayton house,* on South
Battery, which, with its
richly-adorned interior, is
one of the choicest Co-
lonial specimens in the
city.
The oldest English
houses in Charleston, al-
though most of them are
now supplied with veran-
das, which were found to
be necessary because of
the climate, were origin-
ally built without them,
and were entered from
the street on the ground-
floor, as in the case of
Mrs. William Mason-
Smith's house on Church
Street ; or, at most, up a
high stoop, as in the
Lord William Campbell
house ^ on Meeting
Street, or Hayne house,
just across the way from
it. The Mason-Smith house has long verandas, not to be
seen from the immediate front, running along the entire side
of the house, upon which the full-length windows of the
different rooms open. These verandas immediately overlook
mantels of which are not unlike the one in the drawing-room
of Brewton House, and the woodwork throughout is exceed-
ingly refined and quite elaborate.
Second-story drawing-rooms, by the way, are the rule and
not the exception in
Charleston, which holds
with great tenacity to its
English ideas of social
life, in connection with
which a great deal more
of formality obtains than
in any other Southern
city ; and the line be-
tween social and business
intercourse is very closely
drawn. And such quaint
Old World formality ! A
caller entering any of the
old Charleston houses is
first given a seat in the
hall — which, as a rule, is
cheerless and unattract-
ive— while his card is
presented. If his mis-
sion is a business one, or
he is paying a visit to a
masculine member of the
household, he is asked
into the library, which is
usually the first room on
the first floor looking out directly on the street. If, how-
ever, he is to be the guest of the ladies, the servant, returning,
shows him, with a great flourish of politeness and ceremony,
upstairs into the drawing-room, which, in even the least pre-
Tombslone of .Mrs. Benj. Elliott in St. Philip's Churchyard. [1767.]
Tombstone in St. Philip's Churchyard, Charleston. [1789.]
the adjacent churchyard with its quaint gravestones, some tentious of the old houses, is the long chamber occupying
of which seem to be bending their necks and standing on tip- the front section of the second story and may be either a
toe to peep through the windows into the cheery rooms just stately audience-chamber with vaulted ceiling and a rich
beyond the dividing-wall. The drawing-room of this house display of woodwork — as in the case of the Miles Brewton
is a long double chamber on the second floor, the two house before referred to— or a quaint low chamber with
Plate 14, I'art .\.
"See cut, page 3.S.
36
THE GEORGTAN PERIOD.
chair-boards, the freize and ceiling of the room being elabo- church has stood since 1692, to where the portico of old St.
rately adorned with delicate patterns in plaster or putty after Philip's looms before you in solemn dignity and beauty, you
the style introduced by the Brothers Adam about 1760, chance to stop in for a moment at one of the antiquities
which was popular in Charles- | »— , shops, you will see wonderful
ton.'' Often the walls were
wainscoted all the way, and
invariably the main feature of
the room is a fine old mantel
carried up to the ceiling.
The antique mahogany with
which these rooms are fur-
nished presents a study in by-
gone fashions both interesting
and valuable, and the walls
are hung with portraits by
Copley, Flagg, Savage, Sully,
Peale, Trumbull, Gilbert, and
many other Colonial painters
not so well known, men who,
by the way, are deservedly ob-
scure ; with miniatures by
Washington Allston, Malbone
and Fraser, and an occasional
St. Memin engraving to lend
quaint interest and complete-
ness to the art collection. Nowhere in America have the
families inherited for generations so many valuable ohjets
d'art, which, to their credit be
it said, they have appreciated
and clung to through all
changes of fortune. No one
can but wonder after visiting
at different classes of homes,
all of which were stocked with
old mahogany and hung with
quaint portraits of different
grades of excellence, where
the antiquities dealers secure
their wares. None of the
families seem to have sold
any of their possessions for
generations. And yet if, on
your way up Church Street
past the little Gothic Hugue-
not temple, built in 1841 on
the site where a Huguenot
old four-posters, carved in the
celebrated pineapple pattern,
or with wheat-sheaves, or
roses, or what not ; quaint
wine-coolers and tidy, light
sideboards, with inlaid trim-
mings and medallions in
lighter wood, that the dealer
will tell you are real Chippen-
dales— regardless of the fact
that Chippendale's work was
usually massive, and he is said
not to have used inlay — ;
and elaborately carved chairs
which, unless you chance
to know the diflerence, he will
convince you are real Shera-
tons going at a sacrifice.
By far the richest store-
house of old furniture, cera-
mics and art in Charleston, as
well as the finest piece of Georgian architecture in South
Carolina, is Brewton House ' commonly spoken of there as
the Bull-Pringle house, which
1 Vol. IV, Page 8, Figure 26.
2 Some of this mural decora-
tion is said to have been imported
from Italy and by skilled hands
has been attached to the wall
in set designs by means of brass
tacks that are adroitly concealed.
»l'lates l.S-26, Part X.
^ Miles Brewton, after enjoy-
ing the comforts of his new
home for a few years only, was,
together with his entire familv,
lost at sea and his property in-
herited liy his three sisters. One
of tliese, Mrs. Rebecca Brewton
Motte, the celebrated Revolu-
tionary heroine, was living in tlie
house during the Revolution,
wlien it was seized by Sir Henry
Clinton for his headquarters and
later turned over by him to Lord
Kawdon. Its occupancy by the British saved it from destruction
during this period when so many Charleston liduses were burned
and sacked. It was again the headquarters of the enemy dur-
"••rssft^o
A Veranda Entrant:
surpasses all of its contempo-
raries in architectural merit
and enrichment. It was built
in 1760 by Miles Brewton,* a
wealthy Charleston merchant,
the plans and most of the
woodwork being imported
from England. Although
later in date than Shirley, on
the James River, and even
than Drayton Hall,* on the
Ashley, which was built in
1742, like these earlier houses,
it is a notable example of the
two-story porch treatment in
Colonial work ; and though
a town residence and not a
manor-house, as in the other
ing the Civil War, and again
saved from destruction though
considerably damaged. Mrs.
Motte is associated not only with ,
the history of this place, but with
that of two others, also celebrated.
One of these was her home on
the Congaree (to which she re-
tired when Brewton House was
takenfromher), wliich was shortlj-
after seized by the British and
called Fort Motte, and which
she herself fired to force them
to evacuate. The other was a
romantic old mansion built by
her on her rice plantation on
South Santee called '-Kl Dorado."
which was burned a few years
ago. (See illustration to article
on the French Santee in Part XI.)
One of Mrs. Motte's daughters
married Mr. William Allston, whose youngest daughter married
William ISull-i'ringle.
5 Plate 39, Part X.
CHARLESTON, BETWEEN ASHLEY AND COOPER.
17
two instances, it is no less a Mecca to which students of
Colonial work come for inspiration. It fronts on lower King
Street, with a fore-court
enclosed by a brick wall,
15 feet high, flanking on
either side a wrought-iron
fence in the immediate
front, which, though
lower than the wall, is
rendered even less sea
lable by a finish of feudal
spikes pointing in every
direction.
Entering through the
fine old doorway, cen-
trally placed, the archi-
trave of which is sup-
ported by pilasters, one
finds himself in a stone-
flagged hall, running
through to the rear and
dividing the lower floor
into two suites, which
might be termed the din-
ing and library suites, all
the doorways leading
into which have rich en-
tablatures. The two
halls — front and rear — the dado of both of which is of
From this landing one has an excellent view of the quaint
old courtyard in the rear with its set flower-beds and wilder-
ness of fine old shrubs;
and its even quainter
slave-quarters, the gabled
end of which suggests,
curiously enough, a
Gothic temple.
The upper hall of the
Brewton house is of very
dignified and elaborate
character, with its heavily
pedimented doors to the
different chambers, and
its deeply arched en-
trance' to the drawing-
room, which, by the way,
has been pronounced by
critics the most beautiful
Colonial room in Amer-
ica. This drawing-room''
is a long, most lovely
chamber, with its rich
dado, lofty panelled
walls, handsome cornice,
and coved ceiling; with
its mantel carried up to
the ceiling, from the re-
mote centre of which hangs the most elaborately handsome
dark mahogany, panelled, are separated by the usual flat crystal chandelier to be found in any of our Colonial houses.
Tile Brewton Slave quarters : Side \'iew3.
archv/ay supported by detached columns of a Doric order,
the cornice of which is the same throughout. Facing you
from the end of tlie rear hall is a handsome mahogany stair-
case' of two flights, with gracefully turned banisters and
carved stair-ends and a half-pace landing at the end of the
first flight. The feature of this landing is a deeply recessed
three-light window' which affords ample illumination to both
the upper and lower passages in even the dullest weatlier.
' I'late 25. Part X
'Plate 20, I'art .\.
A peculiarity of this chandelier is that the tall glass candle-
shades, intended to protect the burning taper from any
breeze that might be afloat, are still perfectly preserved and
occasionally allowed to perform their function, as on a re-
cent occasion, when a reception was given in their ancestral
house by the Misses Pringle in honor of the social debut of
one of their young relatives.
The drawing-room occupies the full width of the room
3 I'late 24, Part X.
* I'lates 19-22, I'art X.
38
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
below, including that of the hall, also, and is lighted by five
windows. Three of these overlook King Street and face
3-ou on entering. The other two are on the south side of the
chamber and between them hangs a French mirror of great
age. Aside from its architectural value this room could not
fail to interest even a casual
observer in that it is a verit-
able museum, the contents^ of
which have not been collected
from a hundred shops, but,
handed down, have been en-
riched by each generation of
an old and cultured family.
Not the least important of the
many valuable features of this
museum are the portraits.
Over the mantel hangs a Sully
— one of his best — the sub-
ject being the grandmother
of the present owners of the
house. Occupying the place
of honor, between the mantel
and the entrance, is a full-
length portrait of Mrs. William
Allston, nee Motte — their
grandmother — in her brocaded paniers and powdered hair.
This portrait was executed in 1793 by E. Savage, who spent
considerable time in the United States making studies, which
Window opening on Veranda of the Bull-Priiigle House.
1756: and on the mantel, among a collection of valuable
miniatures, is one of John Julius Pringle, done by Charles
Fraser, who ranks with Allston and Malbone as the best of
our American miniaturists.
At the time Brewton house was at the height of its pristine
splendor, Izard house, just
across on Meeting Street (not
a stone's-throw away), was
another scene of high social
life. This interesting old resi-
dence, of English brick, is now
looked upon as a Colonial
landmark and is pointed out
as the residence of one of the
Royal Governors. And so it
was, its official occupant being
Lord William Campbell, whose
wife, nee Izard, inherited the
house from her father. And
from it Lord and Lady Camp-
bell escaped by way of a
creek, that then flowed at the
rear of their house where \\'afer
Street now runs, to an English
man-of-war in the harbor.
The Izard house, or to speak more popularly, the Lord
William Campbell house, although quite dissimilar in exter-
nal design from Brewton house, is not unlike it in its general
The I.ord William Campbell House.
he finished at his leisure. Not far away is a portrait of
Miles Brewton himself, done by Sir Joshua Reynolds in
ipURXlTUKi:. — In an article on the "Customs of Old Char-
leston," William C. Whilden writes of the furniture commonly
used as follows : —
" In the corner as you entered the door in the dining-room
stood the ' wine-cooler,''of polished mahogany, inlaid with wreaths
of satinwood; octagon in shape; about three feet high, on six
spindling stjuare legs ; divided inside with compartments, each to
hold a bottle of wine ; the centre lined with lead to hold ice or
water. Being on rollers, it was wheeled up to the side of the
host at the head of the table and the cooled bottles handed out
as needed.
" The sideboard, with its large, deep drawers, six in number, and
three closets, was large enough to contain all that could be put
into three or four of the more fashionable kind now in use. On each
side, like sentinels, stood the slojiing-top knife, fork and spoon
cases lined with green baize; alongside of each stood the silver
bottle-stands containing cut-glass decanters; and in the centre
the goblet and tumblers for daily use.
Tlie Rhett House, Hassell Street.
interior plan, having a very similar staircase leading to the
second-story hall, at the front of which sweeps a long
" On the mantelpiece, in the centre, was the snuffers and tray.
On the end of the mantelpiece was to be found the tinder-box and
flint and steel, and possibly a few slips of lightwood, the end of
which had been dipjjed in brimstone, the more easily to obtain a
light if a stray spark went into the tinder-box. The mantelpiece
itself was so high that no child could reach it without mounting
on a chair, and the fireplace large enough to hold what would
now be a day's supjilv of wood. In the corner stood the old
clock with its long pendulum, showing, besides the dme, the day
of the month, the condition of the moon, the rising of the tide
and of the sun, with ' iMade by John Carmichael, Glasgow, Scot-
land,' across its face."
2 RnETT HousK. — This house, on Hassell Street, is one of the
oldest residences in Charleston. Its first occupant was Col. Wil-
liam Rhett, one of the officers of the Lords Proprietors of South
Carolina. Colonel Rhett is one of the heroes of Southern legend,
for. in 1S17, he captured the notorious Steed Bonnet and his pirate
crew that liad been for some time an unliearable nuisance.
CHARLESTOX, BETWEEN ASHLEY AND COOPER.
39
drawing-room, the ceiling of which is decorated
elaborate design executed in putty.
Across the street from the Lord Campbell house
house, said to have been the
pre-Revolutionary abode of
the martyr Hayne ; but a
close examination of records
refutes this claim. The house
itself, however, is undoubtedly
old and very pleasing, the en-
trance* to which, though ex-
tremely simple, is one of the
best specimens of its kind in ^
Charleston. A little farther ^
up Meeting Street is the Na- ;
thaniel Russell house ^ (now a r
convent) before referred to ;
and still farther on, at the
corner of Meeting and Tradd,
with its quaint Venetian porch
extending over the sidewalk,
is one of the former abodes
of the celebrated Mrs. Daniel
with an " Hampton," Mrs. Horry's rice plantation on the South San-
tee. This residence of Mrs. Horry's is said to have been
is Hayne built about 1790, and the date is probably accurate enough,
for in the Charleston Gazette,
of April 23, 1787, there is an
account of the burning of
Mrs. Daniel Horry's residence
of Broad, which catastrophe
must have led to the building
of the Meeting Street house.
All the walls in it are of
painted wood, panelled, pre-
sumably cypress. The hall,
which is divided into two parts
by a central arch, separates
the lower floor into two suites,
and the staircase, which is in
two flights, leads to the more
elaborate upper hallway,
which, in turn, leads to where
formerly the drawing-room
lay, the partitions of which
have been removed. The
MEETING STREET-
Plan of the Horry House and Out-bmldings.
5l&ve Qutjxten? ofttie
Horry House
Meeting 5t • C^mrleston &' C
Horry (pronounced O-ree), of French Santee, one of whose
friends was no less a person than Gen. Francis Marion him-
self. In f.ict, tradition says that it was from the window of
this house' that General Marion made his famous jump;
but tradition is again in error, though there is no doubt of
the fact that he narrowly escaped capture by the British at
> See cut, paKe36. " l'l:ite 12, I'art X.
pediments to the doors, the cornice, and other decorative
woodwork are all exceedingly good, though simple ; and the
quaint old kitchen, wash-rooms, and servants' quarters, to-
gether with the bricked courtyard — cut off from the view of
passers-by by a high brick wall — • are typical of the domestic
habits of the period the old house represents.
8 I'late 36, I'art X.
40
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Following Meeting Street to the north after leaving the south and the Bay toward the east, one has before him the
Horry house/ one soon finds one's self within the sacred whole of oldest Charleston, although, strange to say, the very
shadow of St. Michael's, which, by the way, is best seen oldest structure in this city — an antique powder-magazine,
when coming down Meet- built by Sir Nathaniel
ing Street toward the Bat-
tery, on a moonlight night
when the mellow white-
ness of its tower melts
into the luminous soft-
ness of the sky, casting
the while a vivid shadow
on the street below.
From St. Michael's
corner, looking down
Broad Street toward East
Bay, 0176 has an excel-
lent view of the old Cus-
tom-house, completed in
1 77 1, which is one of the
well-known Colonial
buildings of America.
Formerly it boasted a
sort of cupola (see rough
sketch, from the tower
of St. Michael's Church,
Part IV, p. 23, Fig. 95),
which has, however, been
removed.^
Standing here on St.
Michael's corner — where
until i723stoodSt.Philip's
Church ^ (a plain structure
of black cypress on a
brick foundation) when a
^^^s^^^k^m^
The old Powder Magazine.
Johnson, in 1703,* is far
away on an obscure lot
on Cumberland Street,
where it was located —
Cumberland Street being
then a forest primeval —
for the excellent reason
that there it was out of
harm's way. At the time
of the Revolution, and
prior to it, the land north
of Broad Street was
thinly settled as far as
Hassell ; but from there
on it was open country
with plantations scattered
through it. The growth
of the city in that direc-
tion must have immedi-
ately followed the De-
claration of Independ-
ence, however, for Flynn's
Church ^ (Second Presby-
terian) fronting Wragg
Square and occupying
the highest point in the
city, was built in 18 11,
and St. Paul's Church
(Part III, Plate 11) was
completed in 1816,° and
new one of the same name was erected on the site where St. city churches are seldom placed elsewhere than in localties
Philip's now stands — and looking toward the Battery on the that are well populated and convenient.
1 Plate 36, Part X.
' The Commissioners of the Province of South Carolina signed
articles of agreement with Peter and John Horlbeck for the erec-
tion of an Exchaiti^e and Custom House and a new " Watch
House''' \\\ 1767, and the Horlbeck brothers left at once for Eng-
land to obtain materials for its erection. The building was com-
pleted in I77l,the I lorlbetks receiving in payment 241,740 pounds
currency [.«V]. When completed it became the general lousiness
mart of Charleston, and so continued for many years. During the
occupation of the city by the British, its lower floors were used as a
prison, and in one of the rooms Col. Isaac Hayne was confined
and thence taken to execution.
Afterwards the vaults were used as vendue stores, until the
building of the present Vendue Range, and the rest of the building
as post-oflice and custom-house. The: situation becoming un-
safe in the late war, it was deserted, and fell almost to ruin; but
it was afterwards repaired and the Post-office reestablished in it.
The front was originally on the east side, and wings extended
out on ICast Bav, but as these obstructed the street they were
taken down and the front changed to the western side. More re-
cently, the roof being much out of repair, the cupola and some of
tlie ornamental work were removed, but the building still presents
an imposing appearance, and its historic associations make it an
object of much interest. On December 14, 1S99, the 117th anni-
versary of the evacuation of Charleston by the British, the Society
of the Sons of the Revolution placed a bronze plate on the west-
ern wall recording the many historic incidents of the location.
I'he building is now used by the U. .S. Light-house Establishment.
The original contract for the building is now in the possession
of Maj. John Horlbeck, of Charleston.
The (iovernors of South Carolina were proclaimed from the
stejjs of the Exchange as long as Charleston remained the capital
of the State.
^ St. I'hili])'s I'arisli was the first established in South Carolina.
In I 75 1, the town was divid;;d into two jiarishes, tlie .second being
called St. Michael's.
* This old Colonial relic — a little older, perhaps, than the
powder-magazine at Williamsburg, built by Alexander Spotswood
early in the eighteenth century (\'ol. II, page 20), is a small brick
building with four gables and a tiled roof. As early as 1770, an
act was passed directing its disuse, but, the war coming on, powder
was stored in it until the siege of Charleston in i 7S0. It was then
abandoned and became private property, which it still is.
sFlvxx's Church. — On May 16, 1S06, the plan of Flynn's
Church was placed before the building-committee, by William
Gordon, who was appointed to build it, and early in 181 1 it was
ready for purposes of worship. Although it was never finished
the cost of building amounted to over g 100,000. Plate 31, Part X.
° St. P.aui/s Chi'rch, R.\dcliffeboro. — The congregation
of St. Paul's was organized in 1810, under the Rev. Dr. Percy.'
They worshipped at first in the Huguenot Church, then unoccu-
pied. The congregation was incorjwrated December 2 1, 1814,
and the first Vestry elected in 1S15. The corner-stone of the
church was laid November 19, 181 i, and the building consecrated
March 28, 1S16.
The style of its architecture is modern, with a Gothic tower :
the front is adorned with a handsome portico, composed of four
Doric columns supporting an angular pediment. This is the
largest Episcopal church in the city; formerly it was furnished
with the old-fashioned square pews, but these have been replaced
by modern and very comfortable low pews, the effect of which is
to add to the spacious appearance of the interior.
Dr. Percv was an English clergyman, who came first to Georgia
in 1772 to take cliarge, as President, of the College which was es-
tablished at Bethesda, ten miles from Savannah, by Whitfield.
Whitfield bequeathed it to Lady Huntingdon, who appointed Dr.
Percy to the Presidency and sent him to America with missionary
instructions to officiate wherever he could collect an audience. It
is said that while in Georgia he frequently preached in the fields
under the shade of a tree. — Guide Hook.
CHARLESTON, BETWEEN ASHLEY AND COOPER.
41
As a matter of fact, all of Ciiarleston is old, and the houses
in the northern portion of the city, although not Colonial,
are almost invariably either modifications of the San Do-
mingo idea, or specimens of the Greek revival, as in the case
of Ancrum House,' on the
corner of Meeting and Char-
lotte Streets, which, with its
dignified Greek portico (to
the side, of course, in defer-
ence to the European idea of
what kind of a formal front a
house should make to the
street) and its high wall over-
grown with a flowering vine
inclosing a formal garden,
needs but a touch of foreign
color to change it into an
Italian villa. Another and
more ample monument to the
Greek revival, as conventional-
ized for domestic purposes, is
furnished in the Witte resi-
dence'' on Rutledge Avenue,
which was designed by an
English architect, in 1810, for two English bachelors of
Charleston. Neither of them lived in it, however, for the
death of one caused the other to sell it immediately on its
Plan of the Witte House, Charleston, S. C.
its architectural beauties. The library and breakfast-room
are the principal features of the ground Hoor where one en-
ters ; and the drawing-room and dining-room the features of
the second floor. The former chamber is most ornate, with
an arched ceiling supported
by fluted columns almost
Byzantine in feeling. The
staircase is quite circular and
the second-story hall is deco-
rated just below the frieze
line with medallions in plaster
showing studies of American
game in cover.
This house is said to have
cost a large sum of money
which one can readily believe,
for the plan is an ambitious
one, and it was erected at a
period when, having recovered
from the ravages of the Revo-
lutionary War, the town and
State had entered on the
period of their greatest pros-
perity. With the rich rice
and cotton lands of Carolina yielding not only abundance,
but wealth ; with commerce on the high-seas and trained
slaves meeting every demand of domestic life, land-owners
Drawing-room of the Witte House, Charleston, S. C.
completion. The house stands with one end to tlie street in naturally turned their attention to building both in town and
the midst of large grounds through a portion of which one country.
must pass before reaching a position which affords a view of The Post-Revolutionary, however, though regarded as the
>I'late 16, Part X.
'J'late 16, I'art X.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
most picturesque period of Southern life because of tlie unique
institutions that matured under it, and though it developed
great fortunes such as that of Gen. Wade Hampton, of Colum-
bia, who is said to have been the richest planter in the South
and the owner of three thousand slaves — was no more brill-
iant socially than the Pre-Revolutionary period, when Euro-
pean manners^ and cus-
toms prevailed in
Charleston, which
rivalled every other
American city in busi-
ness activity, and sur-
passed most of them in
domestic luxury. So
much so that Josiah
Quincy, of Massachu-
setts, who visited the
city in 1773, wrote as
follows in his journal
intime : —
"This town [Charles-
ton] makes the most
beautiful appearance as
you come up to it, and
in many respects a mag-
nificent. ... I can only
say in general that in
grandeur, splendor of
buildings, decorations,
equipages, numbers,
commerce, shipping,
and indeed almost
everything, it far sur-
passes all I ever saw or
ever expect to see in
America. . . .
" All seems at present to be trade, riches, magnificence
and great state in everything ; much gaiety and dissipation.
. . . State and magnificence, the natural attendant on
great riches, are conspicuous among the people. . . .
There being but one chief place of trade, its increase is
1 Funeral Customs. — Although most of the old customs are
still honored in Charleston, that of serving refreshments at funerals
is now obsolete. William (;. Whilden, in his " Reininisceitce"
speaking of the passing of cake and wine on such occasions, says :
" It was done with great solemnity. A cake called funeral cake
was sometimes used, cut into Ijlocks and iced all around. Tlie
custom arose probably early in the settlement of the countrj-.
The friends frequently had to come for miles (scattered as they
were on their plantations), and to make a feast would have been
out of place.
" On arriving at the house, the ladies were shown into one room ;
the gentlemen into another. The hats of tlie latter were taken
charge of by a servant and turned over to ladies who were Ijusily
emploved putting a band of crape around each and two streamers
al)Out three feet long from the back. A pair of black or white
gloves were also distributed to each person. The ladies' bonnets
amazingly rapid. The stories you are everywhere told of
the rise in the value of lands seem romantic ; but I was
assured that they were facts."
That Charleston should have taken rank as asocial centre
of the New World at so early a period was largely due to the
fact that so many of the English colonists who settled it
were Cavaliers, friends
of the Lords Proprie-
tors, with large means
at their disposal ; men
who sought to repro-
duce in America, so
far as could be done
under different condi-
tions, both the archi-
tecture and the social
and domestic customs
to which they were ac-
customed — and s u c -
ceeded better than most
of their contempora-
ries. These early colo-
nists were enthusiastic
builders, and but for
the ravages of two wars,
in both of which this
historic city played a
conspicuous part, nu-
merous general confla-
grations, and the earth-
quake of 1886, Charles-
ton would have more
high-class Georgian ar-
chitecture to show than
almost any other city in
the United States. As
it is, though the greater part of her most splendid buildings
have been destroyed, what remains is often of a superior
quality and in many instances uniquely interesting.
C. R. S. HORTON.
Entrance to Heywood House, Meeting Street.
were covered with black hoods, and a cape to cover the entire
shoulders.
'• A master of ceremonies, provided with a carefully prepared list,
took a prominent position at the foot of the main stairway or
elsewhere, called out the names at the door where the ladies were
assemljled in the order of their blood relationship ; then the master
of ceremonies called out the names of the gentlemen to escort the
ladies, and so on till the assembled ladies were all provided for;
the remaining attendants fell into twos, all walking through the
streets, in the rear of the hearse or on the pavement, no one riding
in a conveyance.
" At times the coffin was borne through the streets bv the pall-
bearers, and no hearse used.
" At a funeral at the Scotch Church once, wine and cake were
handed to those in the procession as they stood in Meeting .Street,
on the sidewalk. Some funerals were preceded through the streets
by what were termed waiters (namely, two, four or six negro
women dressed in white, with a black scarf over the shoulder
reaching to the knees)."
An Autumn Trip to South Carolina.
q;C=^j]|
IT was with a sense of profound, if temporary, relief from
the noise and restless turmoil of cosmopolitan New York,
that I metaphorically shook off its dust from my feet on
a close and oppressive afternoon in late September of
last year, and boarded the steamer for Charleston, S. C, a
city so dimly pictured in my imagination from only too
scanty descriptions of the
earthquake days that I drew
down the mental curtain and
consigned myself to a couple
of days' absolute rest, wonder-
ing the deep waters had not
sense enough to rest too.
After a seemingly endless and
nauseating period of sensa-
tionalism in the daily press,
unfolding the corruption and
vice of the city under Croker-
ism and Tammany rule, it was
a blessed privilege to flee, even
temporarily, from this modern
Sodom and Gomorrah. As
the evening drew on, how
bracing was the cool air and
how welcome the silence
brooding over the deep as we
slipped down the Jersey shore,
just far enough out to see the
blinking lights of the various
summer resorts, without their
garishness or even the faint
echo of their noisy crowds.
Saturday passed refreshingly
as we rounded the capes, with
a good sea on, and Sunday
morning opened sublimely,
with expectancy on the faces
of all, for the evening would
see us at our destination.
Nor were we disappointed, for
about four o'clock we slipped
between the breakwaters into
the beautiful and expansive
harbor and, passing the historic Fort Sumter, by half past
five o'clock we were snugly moored alongside one of the old
shaky piers, looking down into the faces of the little dusky
crowd peering up at us from among the bales of cotton and
promiscuous cargo on the wharves.
Th^ approach to the city is disappointing, wanting in
architectural interest, the buildings being low, the city itself
lying on a peninsula as flat as an ironing-board, between the
two rivers, Cooper on the east and Ashley on the west. One
looked for an interesting sky-line and found none; only the
two steeples of St. Philip's and St. Michael's broke the roof-
line and pierced the azure with their graceful spires. The
only building on the water-line to attract notice is the new
Custom-house, with its stately
proportions and colonnaded
porticos. Before walking
down the gang-plank a new-
made acquaintance remarked
as he bade me adieu: "You
won't be half a day in this
dead town before you will
wish yourself well out of it."
This is the general impres-
sion of business-men passing
through, or by, historic old
Charleston. The interest to a
stranger depends on the point
of view taken. Charleston is
only awakening from a long
slumber, the natural sequence
of a series of paralyzing cir-
cumstances. The wharves of
this city will not always be so
silent as they are to-day.
With the resuscitation of the
South her commerce is bound
to revive, and, with her natural
advantages, we shall see her
roadsteads alive with shipping
and the silence broken with
the sirens of the Transatlantic
liners.
Looking at Charleston from
the Oisthetic and architectural
point of view, the historic city
teems with interest. Unique in
its type of palatial residences,
with amplitude of light, air and
space, it is of the past that it
speaks, and a past to be proud
of. But, desirable as is a new era of prosperity, one quakes
in contemplation of the changes that a modern affluence will
bring in its wake. Once let in the entering wedge of North-
ern energy, capital and ideas, the steel structure and sky-
scraper, the flat-roofed abominations of the modern economic
system, will quickly eliminate the sense of leisure and rest-
fulness that pervades the city of to-day.
43
44
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
After leaving the steamer and after a shaky ride over the
cobble-stones, we were deposited at the Hotel Charleston,
and, pending the late-houred supper, a twilight voyage of dis-
covery was in order. This was Sunday evening, and the
principal streets appeared to be given over to the colored
population, who in summer attire, especially the young folks,
promenaded with an importance and gaiety entirely their own.
Otherwise the city seemed deserted, and the sense of strange-
ness became oppressive. As the darkness deepened, the
artistic features of the old streets were intensified, revealing
more of incidental worth than in the garishness of midday ;
high walls with ramped copings, tall gate-posts and great heavy
rustic oak and iron gates, over which creep lovely vines, and
bevond which frown the dark spaces of the colonnaded gal-
leries, with, may be, some little wicket in the rear opening on
was not to be seen on the streets. After treading the streets
in and out, poking around church-corners, astonished to find
cemeteries creeping up to the very houses, and headstones
almost peeping in at one's dining-room window, it was with
a sense of the general mouldiness of the city — an eerie feel-
ing, arousing one's curiosity for the morrow's light — that I
returned to the hotel. True to my friend's prophecy, I was
not in the city twenty-four hours before, for some reasons, I
might have wished myself out of it, for, of all the cities
I have ever visited, never was there culinary capability so
behind the times, never was one's patience so put to test
over loss of time in replenishing the inner man. How in
the world the visitors to the Exposition have been accommo-
dated would be interesting to hear. But aside from this little
blemish, the interest in the city grows. In plan practically
Entrances tn the Heyward Estate, ^^ectiIlg Street. Cliarleston.
a tree embowered lawn, all in deep shadow, while the old brick
chimneys and Spanish-tiled roofs peep over the trees and are
silhouetted against an amber sky. The sidewalk pavements
are rnostly of brick, set herring-bone fashion, with a deep
curbstone down to the cobble-paved streets. The gates
are threefold, adjoining the front door, which opens upon
the side gallery, generally a few feet raised up ; first, the
private, or domestic, gate ; secondly, the carriage-gates, and a
narrower one adjoining for the servants, which used in slave
days to be closed at nine o'clock in the evening, and no
colored person could enter after that time without being
detected. A curfew-bell tolled at half past eight to call in
the colored servants, and after nine o'clock a colored person
another, but Oid Colonial, New York, the names of the
streets suggest British origin and dominion, and to this day are
tenaciously preserved and cherished — -King Street, Queen
Street, Meeting Street, Church Street, etc. Laid out at
right angles, the residence plots, or blocks, are very large,
affording spacious gardens and courtyards. Every residence
used to be walled-in with high walls and gates, ensuring
privacy and seclusion, but now few of these are in anything
like good preservation. As an old Charlestonian was pleased
to put it to me, " The city was settled by the English and
Huguenots, they intermarrying you have the American, who
cannot be whipped."' The city is essentially English in its
houses and customs, its domestic life and its tastes. Theearliest
AN AUTUMN TRIP TO SOUTH CAROLINA.
45
houses were of plainest description, sifltplest in plan, front- the sensation of the thing was that could make such an odd
ing on the street, the entrance opening into a hall dividing piece of furniture so indispensable in every household. It
equally the rooms, right and left, and with basement-kitchens ; was, I believe, first instituted for the little pickaninnies, and
but as the Colony progressed, and the retinue of colored help consists of a long, two-inch-thick pine board, say twenty-five
increased, a change of plan developed, and the typical house feet long, supported on two framed end trestles or horses,
evolved, with its end to the street, its front opening on the These trestles are sometimes fitted on rockers. Well, calling
garden, and with wide gal-
leries, or verandas, overlook-
ing the rear of its neighbor.
The slave or servants' quar-
ters generally were in a brick
extension at the other end of
the house, though exceptions
there were, in which they were
built away from the house,
around the courtyard.
In the city's palmy days in-
tercourse with England was
the rule, not the exception,
and clothes, furniture, glass
and silverware were all im-
ported, as were also the wines
— madeira and sherry. The
madeira was always stored
in the attic, for the benefit of
a certain condition of tem-
perature. In the ciiy, at
least, the servants were al-
ways well clothed, uniformed
or in livery, and treated like
children, as indeed they were.
The kitchens were now out-
side the house proper, and
the meals were served from these outside kitchens by the col-
ored help, through the medium of a pantry adjoining the
dining-room. Thus all odoriferous objections were elim-
inated from the family quarters. Strange it was to note that
in no ancient house in its primitive condition did I observe
any toilet or bath-room accessories. The valet or maid
used to bring up the bath-tub and then the water, put you seemed only to have rounded the edges more invitingly.
in it, if you liked, rub you down, and carry all away again. Days went apace, and what with tramping, sketching and
Talk about sanitation — what
Dr. Bemib's House, cor. Meeting and Hudson Streets, Charleston.
one evening at the house of
a friend, the lady asked if I
would not prefer to sit out of
doors in the cool, and archly
proffered me the "joggling-
board." Assenting, I fear,
with dubious air, the good
lady, who represented a fair
figure in avoirdupois, took
the initiative and I followed,
when with an alternating
motion of up and down we
were joggled to the centre of
the board and into such an
embarassing proximity that
only an explosion of laughter
suited the occasion. Now
you can picture, when a group
of youngsters of susceptible
age and both sexes, in the
cool of the evening or moon-
lit night, plump themselves
down on this stout but pli-
able plank what nonsense and
hilarity they get out of it.
But for absolute fun com-
mend me to the colored pick-
aninnies, and even their elders, the aunties and uncles, one or
more thrumming on the " ole banjo," the others taking up
the chorus of "My ole Kentucky Home" in melodious song.
No darky home appeared to be complete without the jog-
gling-board, and some specimens which had seen ancient
service were beautifully put together, and even wear and tear
could be sweeter and healthier
than that.' Now, what is it?
An impoverished family keep
one or perhaps two servants, or
no servant, in a large old bar-
rack of a house, with a forlorn
and antediluvian system of
kitchen and toilet-room accom-
modation. Think of the transi-
tion I What few draperies are
left are moth-eaten and faded,
carpets threadbare and the one-
time garden a desolation and
wilderness. But there are the
galleries left — oh, those cool,
shady retreats, with their wide
sweeps, and which you can pic-
ture with their happy and lively occupants of the older clays
measuring in a heat that some-
times was torrid, evening and
its cool breezes from the Battery
overlooking the harbor were
very grateful. There was a re-
serve very perceptible in the at-
titude of the residents towards
intrusion on their secluded
homes, and it took time to over-
come this. The tourist and
kodak fiend had in their over-
presumptuous recklessness
caused annoyance aforetime
which was resented ; but as
soon as my real mission was
made known every facility
was offered and kindly courtesy
extended on every hand. Still,
it was regrettable that so much of my so little time had to be
Here you can live out the better half of the hot summer spent in awaiting permission. After spending a couple of
days; somewhere you are pretty sure of a shaded corner, weeks in the city, I made the visit to Georgetown and the
swept by a cool breeze, and down on the lower gallery the Santee district, which occupied a week, and then returning
sounds of a merry group oT youngsters tell you of the good spent another week in Charleston. The interval and change
time they are having on the old ''■ joggling-board." This was of scenery acted as a tonic and, returning, helped qualify my
an article entirely new to me, and I was curious to know wliat first impressions. Strange it is, but, ever and everywhere, it
46
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
is just as you are departing you see more, and find out more,
to regret tlie limit of your stay. Wliat are tliree weelis in a
large city, single handed and three-quarters of your time
being talcen up with those necessary but provokingly ob-
jectionable adjuncts, the measuring-tape and foot-rule ? With
so much to tempt one to brush-work, it was hard to put the
palette aside for the severer practical work of measuring.
standing erect besidyhim, the buzz of curiosity as they enter
and leave the church, the rows of colored people who occupy
benches around the sides and end of the building or in the
galleries, the waiting carriages, the old beadle with gold-
tipped cane escorting the dignitaries thereto, the handshak-
ing at the doors, smiles, congratulations and all the social
amenities of the time. The only discordant note of to-day
The Battery and the Pe Saiissure House.
Sunday was the Sunday of our forefathers, and in its de-
corous observance I was pleased to observe that the colored
population appeared entirely devout. In this most English
city, how I enjoyed the Eng-
lish service in the old churches '■
of St. Michael and St. Philip.
After nearly twenty years' ab-
sence from the old country,
here was a rendering of the
service on the old lines,
awakening cherished memo-
ries of the past — the quaint
old-time edifice, the sweet
bells, the mellow tones of an
organ built in 1767, that Han-
del himself might have played
on, the high-decked pulpit and
square high-backed pews,
and the obsequious old sexton.
Through the open side doors,
through which a flood of sun-
shine poured and quaint white
tombstones peeped, came the
subdued sounds of city life,
with the chirruping of the
birds and the perfume of box
and the evergreen shrubbery of the churchyard. It is easy
to picture the same service of forty or a hundred and twenty
years ago, with the Ciovernor and his retinue occupying his
pew near the pulpit, perhaps the Father of his Country
'.See .irtirlc .ind illustrations in i'art .\'I, seq.
is the harsh metallic grinding of the trolley-car as it whizzes
by or turns the corner into Broad Street.
If you wish to obtain a comprehensive view of the city, a
climb up the tower and steeple
of either church is well re-
warded, for, in the absence of
any natural altitudes, your
vision is limited to the per-
spectives of the streets and
your neighbors' residences on
all sides of you. From the
church steeple you look north-
ward away over the city to its
very limits, the rivers Ashley
and Cooper stretching on
either side, exactly as do the
North and East Rivers about
Manhattan — and then down
over the roofs and into the
shady and spacious gardens,
squares and parks. South-
ward you have the magnificent
harbor and islands. From
S this altitude you realize what
^ a magnificent city it must have
been in its palmy days : truly
patrician in its character and, as I first beheld it at sunset, a
little world of loveliness in itself.
Of the two church towers and spires that of St. Philip's is
the most graceful, while that of St. Michael's suggests state-
liness. Built of brick and roughcast, its cream-white walls
AJV AUTUMN TRIP TO SOUTH CAROLINA.
A7
and surfaces, as it pierces tlie clearest of blue skies, are
rather dazzling but beautiful in effect; and again, as I saw
it on a moonlight night, in the stillness and repose of ihe
From the South Carolina Society's Building.
city, the memory of its vicissitudes set me dreaming, to be
aroused suddenly by the sound of the melodious and historic
steeple, placed as it is at the corner, or junction of two
principal streets, dominating every building and feature in
its vicinity, that charms and arrests your interest whenever
you pass it. Were I asked what features charmed me most
in Charleston, my reply would be : " St. Michael's Church
and the Miles Brewton house," better known as the Bull-
Pringle house. And as I was privileged to sit in the
old Pringle pew on Sunday morning the harmony of the re-
lationship between the two was not lost in my musings.
After a pretty close study of the older residences here, the
absence of the more delicate and refined ornament of the Co-
lonial type, to be found in the more northern States, becomes
evident, and more or less disappointing, with one exception,
and that is the Brewton ^ house, which, while simple and plain
in its plan, sturdy in the construction and stately in effect,
is beautiful as a whole, the drawing-room and reception-rooms
especially so. It were well worth the while that the whole
house should be measured carefully, and not a mere room or
two, which was all I could give the time to, and, further,
it being furnished and occupied, the concession made by the
lady of the house was sufficiently appreciated without putting
her to more trouble and disarrangement. The old garden,
now very much circumscribed in its area, was in the early
days a vision of loveliness, and to this day the old-time
tulips, jonquils, daffodils, peonies, send up their perennial
bevy of bloom and color, while ancient wistarias bend the
branches of stout trees with their weight of superabundant
leafage and tassels of turquoise-blue. During the earthquake
this sturdy old house suffered the least of all, only one wall-
panel being cracked, thanks to English-built walls of two
Interior of St. Midiael's Church, Charleston, S. C.
bells, as they chimed the quarters, followed by the tolling of feet six inches thickness, while those more recently built on
the hour. There is a fascination about this church and its i plates iS-26, I'art X.
48
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
the Battery or promenade suffered most, due to their sites
being all "made ground," in fact what originally was swamp.
Romance suffuses this old houpe with an interest far in
excess of its neighbor's. As you walk the garden-paths it can
be pointed out where the ruthless Northerners, after churn-
ing up the priceless old china — which had been previously
packed by loving and anxious fingers, for safe hiding — with
the butts of their rifles, then strewed it. Though occupied
during the War of the Revolution by Lord Rawdon and his
staff as his headquarters, little damage was done, compared
to the ruffianly treatment of the Union soldiers ; but, after
all, considering the crises it
has passed through, the house
is wonderfully well preserved.
Recalling the story of the
occupation of the Brewton
house by the British officers
and their courteous treatment
by Mrs. Rebecca Motte and her
daughter, — on the day after
capitulation she entertained
both British and American
officers at the same table and
won golden opinions from all —
the old prayer-book and Bible,
with her name inscribed, was
bought at "a book-stall in Lon-
don by one of these same
officers and returned by him
to Mrs. Motte. The old Bible
is still, so I hear, read in the
quaint little Church of St.
James, Santee.
Judge Heyward's house on
Church Street has its plan and
several features in cotnmon
with the Brewton house, but it
is not of so large proportion,
nor are its enrichments so pro-
fuse ; but there is a sense of
comfort, as well as stateliness,
in the drawing room measured.
The Horrey house, corner of
Tradd and Meeting Streets, is
remarkable for its double-
decked portico, or veranda,
over the sidewalk, supported
on stone columns of Tuscan
and Ionic orders, while within
the features are plain and substantial, but with meagre orna-
ment, and what there is is rather coarse.
The Elliott house — now used as a pumping-station (the
water-supply is from an artesian well two thousand feet deep,
and is pumped into a little reservoir in the yard ; the water
is quite hot when first pumped up but is allowed to cool before
its distribution) — has little peculiar interest beyond the
ample reception-hall, from which a central flight of stairs
conducted to an upper hall, with a large well and gallery
on all sides ; but this has been cut away to make room for
the pumping-engines. The rooms are very spacious and the
mantels and door-finish and cornices of the general type of
the period, /. e., the beginning of the nineteenth century.
There are many old houses which have historic interest
and more or less romance, but are deficient in detail worth
carrying away. What one notices in traversing the length
of the city, — which is best done by a loop-line of the trolley-
system — is the change frem the earliest-planned, or English,
type of house downtown, fronting on the street, and the
gradual development to the typical Charleston house as built
before the war. It should be remembered that here were
the summer houses of the rich planters who found it un-
wholesome and impossible to live out the summer on their
plantations. I was told that really their plantation-houses
were better and more solidly built than their city-houses,
which were intended, after all, only for summer use, and
under these circumstances space, light and air were their
chief requisites.
The Thomas Ball house up-
town, on the East Battery, is
a type quite common ; that is,
a whole house built only one
room deep, with a central hall,
with front and rear balconies,
or verandas. Here it may inci-
dentally be remarked that
there are several of these ex-
tensive old barracks which
could be soon converted into
more comfortable and civilized
houses, and are to be rented
for a merely nominal figure.
There was one fine old place,
with its house-servants and
carriage-house and front and
rear courtyards, rented for only
$25 per month, but — well, that
is down in Charleston !
One of the old-time features
of the city is the market, of
such a length as to suggest
walking over Brooklyn Bridge,
in this respect, that you wonder
when it is coming to an end.
Its terminal, or entrance, is in
the form of a two-storied Greek
temple, the upper story being
used as offices and reached by
a double flight of stairs, the
entrance to the market being
through a wide arch under
these. Seen at its best — on
market day, or night — it pre-
sents a weird aspect. About
fifty feet wide, it runs in four
sections, necessitated by four intersecting streets, and in total
must reach about eight hundred feet. A broad central flagged
walk is flanked on either side by stalls, in appearance like
those of a stable, and the unbroken monotony is remarkable.
The roof is a simple king-post aiTair, open, and adds to the
endless perspective. But the strangest feature to Northern
eyes is the presence of those natural scavengers, the buzzards,
who make their appearance only during market-hours, and
at its close take their flight to their own eyries. To see them
in their descent from the roof to the cobblestones after some
bit of carrion is very attractive; they come down with such
a clumsy swoop you expect to see them tumble and break
their necks ; but no, with a sweeping curve close to the
ground they alight like thistledown and run with such side-
long gait and so swiftly that you cannot restrain a laugh.
In some of the later houses, as, for instance, the Russell,
A.V AUTUMN TRIP TO SOUTH CAROLINA.
49
the Witte and others, a unique feature is the staircase, whicli
is built in a circular or oval plan, and self-supporting from
the ground it rests upon to the landing on the next floor,
independent of the walls,
which it does not touch, sav-
ing a good deal of space and
generally placed so as to af-
ford a roomy rear hall.
Some pleasant side-trips are
to be made from Charleston,
by boat or trolley, as, for in-
stance, to the Lowndes, or
Waggoner, homestead on the
Ashley River, used during
the Exposition as the
Woman's Building ; also the
TurnbuU and Lawton estates,
the former metamorphosed by
municipal authorities for park
purposes, and the latter in-
cluded in the site for the
Naval Station, the house, I
believe, being originally in
the possession of the Izard
family. Other excursions by
train and yet within reach of
an hour or two's journey, are
Goosecreek Church and Mulberry Castle, on the Cooper
River, and Pompion Hill Church and Drayton Hall, on the
rlie Tliomas Ball House, Charleston, S
its past, but there is scarcely an estate upon which the in-
scription 'Ichabod" could not be appropriately placed on
its gate posts. Without the help, the spacious gardens are
but poorly kept up, and reflect
the all-pervading decay. As
you behold all these big man-
sions, and after talking with
their owners, you are mani-
festly impressed with the dis-
tinction of having a grand-
father who helped to make
history, but reflect that this
they did because they could
not very well help doing so,
and while these good people
have been dreaming of their
family trees, the Northerners
have been studiously pushing
a way for their sons and
daughters.
Among the pleasurable trips
from Charleston, a visit to and
a stay of a few days in old
Georgetown — so intimately
connected with the older fami-
lies of that city — well repays
one, and it is from there the
trip through the Santee district is made. Situated as it is
about sixty miles (as the crow flies) northeast and on the
Tlie Charleslon ^rarl<et [1841].
Ashley River. The latter house I regretted my inability to coast — or, more strictly, on Sampit Creek —at the junction
see, as the place was closed up and the family away. of the 151ack and Waccamaw rivers, as they open into the
To sum up my impressions of Charleston : I found it a sea, one should in these days make the journey in about
proud old city, with every evidence of wealth and luxury in two hours, whereas the trip consumes four or five hours.
so
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
The first half of the journey is by the main line (Atlantic hand. After some vigorous
Coast Line) to Lane's Junction, talcing you through St. the dinner-bell, rung by a col
Stephen's, across the Saiitee
River, due north, and then, in
the shakiest and dirtiest of
makeshift railroad-cars, you are
jolted or joggled along to your
destination, with a stop every
five or eight minutes, now for
a word between the conductor
and some planter, who rides up
to the crossing to pass the
time of day ; then to take on
an odd bale of cotton ; anon
to embark a colored woman
with a basket of eggs, or some
woful chickens ; again we stop
just to stretch our limbs, or for
the engine to take water, and
indeed so thirsty did that
The Elliott House, Charleston.
ablutions you are glad to hear
ored waiter — with a vigor only
equalled by an English railway-
porter's — on the piazza, right
on the sidewalk. I fully ex-
pected tlie whole town to come
up with a rush and recalled the
parable of the five loaves and
two small fishes amongst the
multitude; but my fears were
baseless. The company was
limited, and suffice it that I
found more hearty fare than
at any hotel — not excepting
that old stand-by, the "Char-
leston" of Charleston — in all
my trip. Now, this was a little
unpretentious one-horse-town
hotel, but in the limited quar-
ters designated " office " was a
A Charlestrn Gateway.
locomotive appear that at last
I classed it as amphibious.
Dusty, hot, stifled, at last one
emerges onto the platform of
the Georgetown station, glad
to incarcerate oneself again for
a brief while inside an ancient
omnibus, so long as one may
be put down at some hotel —
no, not at that lumber-barracks
opposite the station ; but away
from the dusky crowd, in the
old town — and in a few min-
utes you are dumped onto the
sidewalk at the "Windsor," and
a genial landlord gives you a
hearty welcome with extended
ilci.se Gate for same Estate.
bookcase, and there was a com-
plete edition of the '■^ Encyclo-
picdia Americaua " flanked at
the one end by the " Holy
Bible" and at the other by
" Webster's Unabridged" with
various reference-books, histo-
ries and commentaries on a
lower shelf. Surely, many a
more pretentious establishment
might take a hint from this,
the entirely unexpected. Nor
was the privilege shirked, for
many times I observed various
drummers poring over ency-
clopa;dia and dictionary, if not
the Bible.
AN AUTUMN TRIP TO SOUTH CAROLINA.
51
Georgetown divides its interests : there is the long main
street with its modern store-fronts of frame structure and
pushing trade, much of it maintained by the Hebrew element,
and, on the other
hand, there is the
restful quiet of the
residential section,
with a picturesque-
ness and beauty only
to be found where
modern changes are
eschewed. Its old
houses conserva-
lively preserved,
though boasting lit-
tle of architectural
detail, fascinate you
with the mere sug-
gestiveness of their
antiquity, of course
accentuated with the
Southern features.
Spaciously laid out,
with very wide
streets or boule-
vards, old-time gar-
dens, and revelling in the shade of fine old oaks, the mem-
ory recalls it as a dream of the past.
or pine-woods, now transplanted into the precincts of a civ-
ilized community, assumes in the frame house of the same
plan a more finished appearance. The outside chimney at
one end, instead of
being constructed
of clay or short in-
terlaced logs be-
smeared with clay, is
now of brick. Pres-
ently on an enlarged
scale, you have a
hearth and chimney
at either end, and
anon a double story.
The house is now
divided by a narrow
hall, with staircase
in the rear. With
The M.inigaiiU House, Charleston, S. C.
increased prosperity
and personal impor-
tance comes the
piazza, first single,
then double. Again,
to better facilitate
domestic require-
ments, an outbuild-
ing is erected away from the house, and then a small covered
gallery is needed to connect with the house. This, as the
* FriendficU
near Geori^etown, S. C.
It is interesting here to notice the growtli in plan of the family quarters are found to be too limited, is closed in, and
older houses. The ori<'inaI rough log cabin of the country you have an L, and so on. You cannot very well attach this
52
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
development to the larger houses, but it is noticeable in the
dwellings of the laboring classes and of the colored element.
In some of these cottages the walls are wainscoted to the
ceiling, and here and there you come
across a finely modelled door-knocker
or other suggestion of architectural
and refined tastes. Some peeps into
the interior of these primitive houses
revealed scrupulous cleanliness and
neatness ; here and there evidences
of good taste.
The old church, " Prince George
Winyaw," is still, after nearly two
hundred years, a specimen of beauti-
ful brickwork in English bond and,
■with its quaint tower and massive
arched window-heads, embowered in
trees, is a picture from any point of
view. The old market, too, with its
tower, built about 1840, is striking in
its simplicity and, being the rendez-
vous of boatmen, skippers, towns-
men, colored loafers and the ever-
present mule-cart, makes a curious
picture to Northern eyes.
From Georgetown a visit was
made to "Friendfield," an old plan-
tation-house about six or eight miles
out in the woods, where the singular
find of the pictured wall-paper was
made. The house was interesting in
plan, but appeared to be rather a
patchwork of additions. Strange to say, while I had heard
of the name of this amongst other plantation-houses — so
many of them burned — no one could give me any information
Another trip that was as pleasureable as it was interesting
was up the Waccamaw River (two or three miles wide), in a
little rowboat, with a burly negro, half a dozen or more miles,
to visit " Prospect Hill," the old
home of the Huger family, where
La Fayette was welcomed and en-
tertained on his second visit to this
country. I believe, too, that Wash-
ington here paid a visit. After a
couple of hours on the water, we
pulled inshore and along a narrow
canal to the landing, about a mile
inland. The banks of this canal,
which in the olden days were well
preserved and kept, were a tangle of
riotous vines and pampas-grasses,
sometimes overarching us, while
on either side stretched the wide
rice-fields. From the landing a tor-
tuous path led up the hill to the old
house, embowered 'mid old oaks, a
picture of sad decay. Evidences of
a once richly cultivated garden were
everywhere. Ivy climbed the walls
and hid the old stone stairs to the
piazza, with its wrought-iron railing
of quaint design. The house was of
the simplest in plan, being divided
by a wide hall from front to rear,
the house being two rooms deep.
Shown over it by a little colored
boy, who seemed to tip-toe it every-
where and spoke in mutifled whisper, the silence, with the
everywhere apparent desolation, was so oppressive that only
my limited time in which to get my sketching and measuring
■■'-«fv/l"?
:"S$
^"'"tstai^.'
-/*" Y J
%:"'^^'
" Prospect Hill," on the Waccamaw River : the Rear
about it, and only on the morningof my departure did I man- done kept me to my task. Afterward rambling around the
age to reach it, and, so, had too little time to do justice to it. estate, inspecting the different outhouses, smoke and baking
AJV AUTUMN TRIP TO SOUTH CAROLINA.
53
houses and the site of the farm-buildings — for that is all skipper and other boats' companies passing half a mile away,
that remains — I was glad to come away, sick at heart in and, strange to say, just in an ordinary voice, which
contemplating the ruthless transition from the days of its would be answered clearly and intelligibly on the instant,
one-time prosperity and happiness. All this section of country was once a veritable garden of
The row back was a relief from the stifling heat and op- cultivation ; first indigo, then rice and cotton and tobacco ;
The Robert J. Turnbull House, near Charleston, S.C.
pressiveness on shore, and though the little flat-bottomed and it was the proprietors of these plantations, with their fine
cockleshell of a boat rocked a little too much in the tidal old houses and retinues of servants, who helped to build
current midstream for one's entire confidence, the freshness up Charleston, which was their summer home. A colony
was grateful, while it was interesting to take note of little of Huguenots, their family names to-day predominate, and of
things • for instance, the home of the alligator on the banks, these names the present generation is justly proud.
and the genial exchange of "How d'ye do's" between my E. Eldon Deane.
The Charleston Post-office.
Romance and the South Carolina Homestead.
^^1^^
THE genuine Colonial houses of the South, like
the respectable gray-haired servants, are becoming
scarce, but certain country-seats dating back to
days before this nation had even thought of a house-
warming exist yet in South Carolina, secluded in those
parishes, close to the sea,
where the first colonists got
foothold. The young house-
keepers in these time-honored
dwellings would, doubtless,
willingly exchange them for
newer quarters less congenial
to moths and spiders. In-
deed, the old homes owe their
preservation as much to the
substantial construction that
defies fire, and would make
the tearing-down a task, as to
veneration for their character.
But to the person of romantic
or antiquarian turn, such a
place is eloquent, and merely
to cross the plain stone threshold and get a glimpse of the
deep-sunk windows and chimney-cupboards is to slip back
Mulberry Castle, on the Cooper River, S. C
A mansion that interests strangers is Mulberry Castle,^ on
the Cooper River, so-called from the mulberry-trees set out
for silk culture by an enterprising Governor of the Province.
The house bears the date 17 14 on the iron vanes which cap
its towers. The vanes, of light arabesque design, swing as
weathercocks on the four
towers and, seen from a dis-
tance across the low-lying rice-
fields, give a quaint mediaeval
look to the p'ace. The silk
raised and spun on this plan-
tation, the first experimented
with in this country, was of
fine quality. A patriotic Co-
lonial dame carried enough of
it for the making of three
dresses to prominent women
in England in order to demon-
strate Carolina's adaptability
for silk culture. Mulberry
Castle's founder was a zealous
churchman who frowned upon
dissenters and continued to nip their influence in Gov-
ernment affairs. Many arbitrary, hot-worded arguments
Fireplaces: Mulberry Castle, <.n the Cooper River, S. C.
to the time of the minuet and elaborate courtesy, of powd'ered bearing on State and martial matters were contested in
heads, knee-buckles, buckram skirts and stomachers.
1 Plate 38, Part X.
54
ROMANCE AND THE SOUTH CAROLLYA HOMESTEAD.
SS
this old house, and significant negotiations conducted when
delegations or private parties sailed up the Cooper to the
Castle's master, to have rights vindicated or wrongs redressed.
The loopholes provided in the heavy window-shutters evidence
a martial history. The owner promoted the building of forts
as well as churches, and his descendants later experienced
rough handling both from Indians and British scouts. Once,
in Revolutionary times, a servant reported that troopers were
coming across the open hilltop in front of the house. The
proprietor — a colonel of the day — went down the slope back
of the premises to a schooner anchored in the river, and
lying face downward on the deck was covered with a row-
boat, in time to hear the troopers gallop past toward the
swamp where they believed him hiding.
At another time, while the family was at supper, word
Drayton Hall,' on the Ashley River, is a survival of first-
settlement days, still habitable after long use and many
changes in its surroundings. And Middleton Place, its
close neighbor, is possibly the best known of Carolina plan-
tations, famed for its noble gardens, to which hundreds of
tourists make pilgrimage. It is there that one see? the
clustering azaleas blooming full and free in the open air at
the foot of lofty oaks and laurels, from which the gray-moss
veilings droop almost to the ground. Nowhere else in the
country have such effects in blossoms and foliage been con-
trived, and the charm of the place is its naturalness and
freedom from artificial posing. Wherever and whenever the
gardener's art has been used to aid nature it has been done
so deftly and subtly as to give the impression that even
Madam Nature herself had been deceived into mothering the
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-
Entrance to Parson's Plantation on Goose Creek, near Charleston, S. C.
came of the enemy's approach. The women promptly blew
out the candles, and the husband and father reached his
stable and on horseback got off to the woods while the
raiders were searching the premises by torchlight. Many
colonists were in the house at that juncture because of its
supposed safety. On a pallet in one corner of the parlor
the master's little daughter had been put to sleep while some
visitor occupied her bed. Her couch was overturned by
bayonets in the soldiers' search for arms or treasure. Those
times gave way to seasons of great prosperity and affluence,
and even in the Civil War the Castle escaped damage because
of its secluded location.
Two miles from Mulberry plantation is a quaint dwelling
called Exeter House, with the date 17 12 graved on its brick-
work. The two houses are companions, having shared the same
history, and being at present owned by family connections.
innovation. This estate marks the time when Carolinians
first became ambitious for luxury. The founder's aim was
to make a choice and cultivated display of the native botani-
cal riches of the section, mingling them with such foreign
importations as could best be naturalized to the soil. The
very spirit of tranquil loveliness broods over the spot, and
even the prosaic visitor warms to enthusiasm at the first sur-
prise of these riverside grounds that many liken to Paradise.
The house, to which the gardens were a complement, was
burned years ago, but its loss has been skilfully concealed.
In St. James's Parish, Goose Creek, is Yeaman's Hall,
whose founder was the first person to introduce slave-labor
in Carolina. The house was in constant use until the
earthquake cracked its walls. Its age shows in its face.
Port-holes in the basement brickwork and staircase landing
1 1'late 39, I'art X.
56
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
show it to have been designed for defence as well as comfort.
And the builder, who fled from Barbadoes, bringing money
and slaves with him, must have profited by his lessons in
danger, for he not only caused a secret chamber to be walled
within the house, but also built an underground passage lead-
ing out, several hundred yards, to the creek, where boats were
kept moored that the besieged might leave the dwelling
secretly. This passage opens into the family graveyard
which adjoins the premises, as was old-country custom. A
flat gravestone inscribed to some mythical ancestor hides
the entrance to the underground way. That buried passage
has been an abiding terror to successive generations of the
neighborhood darkies, and been speculated upon by many
instalments of Sunday-school cliildren who go to the Hall for
their spring picnics. The hidden way is the basis for all
manner of "bogey stories," and the most harmless of Jack-o'-
my-Lanterns seen there causes desertion of the territory for
weeks, and then the foxes and 'possums roam secure from
ing from a strong-minded grandame of strict religious bent,
who, during her sway as mistress, had forbidden all levity
and pernicious reading to her household. The private diaries
of the time report that the governess destroyed her novel and
took a servant-maid to sleep in her room thereafter ; but, later,
when there arrived at the Hall a son of the old grandame
whose features strikingly resembled his mother's, the young
woman was thrown into such agitation of mind that she had
to go away in quest of health.
An ancient place facing on Wappoo Creek is notable for
having produced the first Carolina indigo, an achievement
due to woman's wit and perseverance. The Governor of
Antigua sent his wife and daughter to his Carolina planta-
tion for tlie advantages of climate. The daughter, wearying
of the monotony of country life, sought for some industry
with which to liven matters, and began experimenting with
tropical seeds and fruits sent her by her father. The first
indigo seeds she planted were killed by frost ; the next venture
■The Pickets": Bull Plantation, Ashley Kiver, S. C.
hunting. A fine spring of water is hard by, but none of the
negro tenants on the land partake of its benefit. They say
the place is haunted.
There is a ghost story concerning the experience of a
governess, a gay young widow, who taught the children of
the household some generations after its founding. She
was reading a novel one night in her bedchamber upstairs
when the door opened softly, and an old lady in silk gown
and cross 'kerchief walked in and looked at her, with finger
uplifted. The young woman asked the visitor's meaning
without getting response, and when the apparition turned to
go she followed through several rooms until it vanished as
suddenly as it had come. The household was roused and
inquiry made as to how a stranger could have got in or out
without notice. The mystery was never cleared. Only those
familiar with the fami'y characteristics set it down as a warn-
failed because of worms. The third trial after many months
proved successful, and the father being advised of the fact
sent a West Indian chemist to build vats and show the
process of extracting the dye from the weed. The foreign
chemist, probably regretting his bargain as adverse to his
own country, purposely misled his employer and marred the
quality of the indigo by putting in too much lime.
The young woman circumvented him, however. Feeling
intuitively that his dealings were not fair, she watched him
carefully, questioning every step in the process and his
reasons for doing thus and so, with the result that a knowl-
edge of the correct management was obtained and the suc-
cessful manipulation of indigo made known to the planters
of the section. Afterwards, this girl experimenter married a
neighbor, to whom her father made a present of all the indigo
raised on his lands.
MORE PECUTJARiriES OE SOUTHERN COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE.
57
One of the stateliest of the old plantation houses in the
low country was " Archdale," built in 1706, under the di-
rection of the architect who built St. Philip's Church in
Charleston. This house, which had the massive walls of a
fortress, with steps and porches to correspond, was injured
by the earthquake, which proved so ruinous to brick houses.
The interior is decorated with florid stucco-work and the
hall fireplaces are lined with pictured Dutch tiles. As in most
old English dwellings, the family allegiance is shown by the
royal arms, done in stucco, over the main archway. Without
were paved courts and extensive grounds adorned with laurel
and catalpa trees and flowering shrubs.
Some of these old places stand far back from the road
and owe much of their beauty to a water approach or to
their isolation among live oak groves, or on imposing bluffs
visible from some distance. Bits of social or domestic his-
tory are connected with each, serving to (ix them in memory.
You drive up some avenue so well defined and stately it
would seem the caretaker must be near at hand, only to find
the relics of a dwelling and grounds long defaced, the
well-filled barns at a little distance and the populous negro
cabins emphasizing the desolation. One such home near
Charleston was destroyed by its owner's hand on discovery
that the enemy was approaching. His negroes strove to
prevent the sacrifice, but Spartan-like, the planter hiinself, be-
lieving that the place would be sacked, applied the torch
that took away valuable paintings, plate and household keep-
sakes. At another old home-site in a sister parish, the tale
holds of the young master's journeying across the ocean for
his bride, after building a carefully planned house with ex-
press deference to her comfort. The night of the home-
coming the carriage was sent to the station to fetch the young
pair, and as they entered the avenue leading to the house an
odd light struck on the trees. The dwelling was on fire, too
far gone to be rescued. And the couple sat in their convey-
ance and watched the tragedy, afterwards taking shelter in
the overseer's house until a substitute could be built.
There are no older or more picturesque survivals anywhere
in the land than these Carolina home-sites; and it is well to
record them before they have been too much modified or set
aside.
OUVE F. GUNBY.
■^B'-
-^fgu
More Peculiarities of Southern Colonial Architecture.
IF one wished to embark on an interesting voyage of spec-
ulative inquiry, he might imagine that in the first ten
years of the seventeenth century the ships of the world
brought to this Western Hemisphere as many individuals
as have entered this country during the last decade as immi-
grants, coming then, as they have come now, froin as many
and diversely situated civiliza-
tions, and then seek to dis-
cover what manner of civiliza-
tion, what kinds of social
customs, what forms of archi-
tectural surroundings would
have resulted from the efforts
of the motley horde of Huns,
Italians, Poles, Jews, Armen-
ians, Russians, Chinese, Jap-
anese, Scandinavians, Ger-
mans, Irishmen and so on.
The science of ethnology
shows us how climate, social
custom and family habit predi-
cate the results of man's
efforts, and on nothing is the
effect of these more clearly
stamped than on the archi-
tecture of a country. Fortu-
nately, this country was, essentially, settled by Englishmen,
and the ethnical characteristics of the American people do
not vary much from those of the inhabitants of the British
Islands, although there are parts of the country which bear
the impress of the habits, customs and styles of building
native to those early settlers of other than Anglo-Saxon origin.
•The writer docs not moan to suggest that winji-pavilioii liouss
nKMit in this ( ouiitry
But it could have made little difference at the time when
the early settlers actually arrived what had been their home
habits of life. They found themselves projected into a new
world and they must house themselves either in natural caves
or in some form of habitation that their own hands were
capable of forming with most expedition, whether a wattled
wigwam, a sod hut, a mud
hovel or a log cabin. The
log cabin was the natural se-
lection of Englishmen, and
from the log cabin was in time
evolved, not only the present
system of wooden dwellings,
but one of the two kinds of
building which are essentially
American types. One of
these types has already been
referred to — the gambrel-
roofed building. The second
type that we are inclined to
consider essentially American
is the house with wing pavil-
ions ' which is so character-
istic of dwelling-houses in the
Southern States, a type of
dwelling that has sometimes
been held to be one of the results of slavery, for, considered
from this point of view, the wing pavilion is but the slave-
quarter drawn nearer to the main house and occupied by the
house-servants, and, finally, connected with it by open or
closed galleries. But the wing pavilion may have another
derivat'on, and its germ is to be sought in the humblest type
are not common in otiier countries, l)ut merely that its develoi>
was a natural one.
A Modern Veranda, Meeting Street and tlie Hattery, Cliarieslon, S. C.
58
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
of dwelling, since it is in the dwellings of the lowly that
changes occur least rapidly, and so there is more hope of
finding still in existence the needed connecting links.
In all probability the log cabin of the South was very like
the log cabin of the North, and its architectural form was
of the simplest, and though the sun shone more fiercely in
Virginia and South Carolina than it did in Massachusetts,
we do not know that the Southern settlers undertook to pro-
vide a grateful shade on the outside of the cabin by giving
a wide overhang to their roof-timbers. But by the time that
logs had been supplanted by slabs and sawed boards, we may
feel pretty sure that this matter of providing shade had
received attention and the householder had provided a place
where his women-folk could work or sit under cover from
the sun's rays, either by giving his main roof an overhang or
by building a porch on the gable-end. Now, as the original
log cabins were essentially small structures of a single room
ures. This arrangement was satisfactory enough until it
came time, perhaps, to provide a second daughter with a
home, and then the problem presented was not so easy of
solution, for if the new house were built in the same line
over beyond the house of the eldest daughter, the new bride's
door might as well be cut in one side as in another, since she
would inevitably be ostracized from the family circle, as rep-
resented by " doorstep visits," while the mother would have
to take twice as many steps in going to call on one daughter
as she would when just running in to chat with the other. If,
having this evil in mind, the head of the family ever thought
to avoid it by building for his second daughter a cabin —
always in the same riglit line — to the west (as we have
assumed) of his own house, he doubtless perceived that,
though the mother's steps might be saved, the new location
would be as undesirable socially as the site at the other end
of the second cabin. ]5ut being, doubtless, a man of resource,
A Sea Island Cottage, off the Ct ast of Geoipla.
or, if larger, of two rooms, it is plain that as the family in-
creased more room was found needful, and, as log cabins
are not easy to enlarge, it was the obvious thing to provide
such enlargement in the shape of a second log cabin of the
same size as the original, and, for convenience as well as for
sociability and mutual protection, it is equally obvious that
the new structure should be built near the original with its
walls parallel to those of the old cabin. These enlargements
of the homestead were, in a sense, compulsory when it was
needful to establish a son or daughter in a new home, and,
as neighbors were few and doctors fewer, it was all the more
desirable that the mother should have her daughter directly
under her eye. Then, if the door of the original cabin, with
its possible porch, was, say, in the east gable-wall, the de-
mands of sociability evidently required that the door of
the new cabin, with its possible porch, should be in the
west gable-wall, so that mother and daughter might gossip
with one another across the short space between the struct-
the father, after due thought, solved his problem in a way to
remove all disagrefeabilities, little thinking that in doing so
he was producing the germ of the second typical product
of American architectural ingenuity.
He perceived that, although two of his daughters were oflf
his hands and out of his house, really, the house itself was
quite too small for his remaining and still growing family, al-
though it would be amply large for the newly married couple;
so he decided to abandon it to them and build a new and
larger house for himself. This new and larger structure, be-
ing always guided by the instinct for convenience and socia-
bility, he set in the space between the two cabins already
built, but at right angles to them, with the gable-end to the
south, that is ; setting it back so that its south gable-wall
aligned with their north side-walls. The door of this new and
larger structure naturally was cut in the south gable-wall,
and in this way the doors, and possible porches, of the three
dwellings fronted on a common, and small, door-yard. The
MORE PECULIARITIES OF SOUTHERN COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE.
59
mandates of sociability were perfectly observed ; the mother As a theory, and fanciful at that, all this may be very
in talking across to her eldest daughter need talk but half well, but is there any tangible evidence that can be adduced
as loud as before, or in case of a visit need take but half as in support of it ? We think there is.
many steps. The natural passing to and fro between tiiese The wing-pavilion house, as it exists in the manor-houses
three cabins inevitably, sooner or later, particularly after the of Maryland and Virginia, presents the type in its highest
grandchildren acquired locomotive capacity, suggested a perfection, and just as it is difficult to determine of what
platform of some kind, and,
presently, a roof to that plat-
form to give shade or pro-
tection from the weather.
The result of this attempt to
satisfy the natural demands
of family sociability was the
germ of the wing-pavilion
house of the Southern States.
It may be asked, if this
interesting type was evolved
in just this way, why is it
that the type is confined to
the South and does not
make its appearance in the
North 1 And since it is a
stranger in the North, is not
this hypothetical evolution
nationality a genuine cosmo-
polite really is, so it is diffi-
cult in the case of these
eighteenth-century houses,
erected by men of great
means, to decide whether
the germ of their house-plan
is to be looked for in this
country or abroad ; whether
they here followed by one
last step a process of evo-
lution that had been going
on about them and their
ancestors ever since the
country was first discovered,
or whether they adopted and
simplified a type discover-
able somewhere on the other
a little too fine-drawn to deserve respect.' Possibly. Yet side of the Atlantic. Types subsist longest in the lower
before waiving it aside as ridiculous, it is proper to at- stages of development, with inanimate things as much as with
tempt to answer the questions. In the first place, there was man, and in support of the theory of development here sug-
just as great a difference between the social instincts of the gested we must seek for proof, not on the banks of the James,
settlers North and South as there is between the climates but in the back country of Virginia, Georgia and North and
of Massachusetts and South Carolina. The family life of South Carolina, once iield by the families of frontiersmen,
the Puritan was far less expansive and joyous than that and now occupied by small owners or renters of the land and
of the Southern immigrants, even if we take as a correspond- by the white-trash, whose wants are simple and whose ener-
ing type the Huguenot, for here we have the asceticism due to gies are commensurate with their means, who either live in
sectarianism largely offset by the natural joyousness of the the houses built by their more sturdy forebears or homes
Gallic temperament. It seems fair to assume that a Puritan which they have blindly copied from those of their neighbors.
mother did not feel the need of doorstep gossip as keenly as These small communal dwellings, a composite of three in-
did the mother living on the
James or on the Santee, and
no matter how much her
New England descendants
may now love to gossip
" over the back fence," did
not feel the hourly need of
chit-chat that her livelier
Southern contemporary may
have felt.
Again, it must be remem-
bered that tiie out-of-door
life of the Southerner is
longer by several months in
the year than is that of tlie
Northerner, and, while
the latter might well hesi-
tate to provide his wife and
daughters with primitive
covered verandas which
would be fully serviceable
only three months in tlie
year, they were very reasonable things for a Soutiierner to
provide, since they would surely be used nine months out of
every twelve. Since we know that the most potent control-
ling influences affecting architectural forms are the ethnical
and the climatic, we think that the absence of the wing-
pavilion type in the Nortli does not in any way invalidate
the theory of evolution we suggest.
Tlie J. T. Ciilyer House, Prospefl Heights, Brooklyn, N. Y.
tegral parts, are to be found
scattered through the States
named and in parts of Ken-
tucky to this day, and surely
present the simplest form of
the wing-pavilion dwelling,
which we hold to be the sec-
ond significant development
of American building.
The view of the Sea Island
cottage ' — now occupied by
negroes, but in all probability
once the summer house, or,
possibly, the shooting-box, of
the owner of some neighbor-
ing rice-plantation — shows
the type described as it was
treated late in the eighteenth
century or as it might be
treated now. The three doors
front on thecommonveranda,
and while the flanking cot-
tages have become mere wing pavilions of a single bedroom
each, the central corps de logis has gained in size and compara-
tive importance, though still consisting of but a single story.
It is interesting to study the varying manner in which the
wing pavilion is treated, for there is scarcely a possible
combination of which an extant example cannot be found in
1 i'.u'o 5''^, l':irt X.
6o
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
brick or wood, from the group consisting of the main house
flanked symmetrically by small independent structures wholly
unconnected with it by gallery of any kind, whether covered
or uncovered ; to the group of two, the main building being
connected with its smaller neighbor by an open covered gal-
lery, as is the case at the Calhoun homestead ;' to the group
of three where, as at Mount Vernon,'' the wing pavilions
upon each side — independent structures — are connected
with the main house by open, but covered, galleries. Then
we find the single pavilion connected with the main house
by an enclosed gallery, as at "Acton,"' in Annapolis, and,
again, the main house connected in the same way with a
pavilion on either side, as at " Lower Brandon." ^ Little by
little the gallery as a mere passage-way gives place to a wider
structure, constituted of one or more connecting rooms that
square rather than the elongated house was a natural result
The milder climate of the South made it a matter of indiffer-
ence and sometimes a positive advantage that the rooms had
such an expanse of outer wall enclosing them.
It is regrettable that more is not known of the men who
actually designed the notable Southern houses — Homewood,
Whitehall, Tulip Hill, Brandon and the many other interest-
ing wing-pavilion brick houses of Maryland and Virginia,
the houses that antedate the "white pillared " houses of the
Southern planter. These houses did not grow, Topsy-like.
They are real architectural achievements, the final word in a
discernible process of evolution. In some ways they are more
lovable than any type of house we have : while having
abundant dignity and elegance they seem intensely homelike,
and though they have an old-world air and remind us that
Tlie Sliepherd House, Linnwoad, near Culumbiis, Ga. [1830.]
serve also as a passage way, or to a passage-way with rooms
upon one side of it. Then pavilions, connecting rooms and
main house are joined in one structure and covered by a
single roof, as at "Stratford House.""
The last stage in the development of the wing pavilion
may be found in such a house as " \\'averly," ' near Columbus,
in Mississippi, where the existence of the pavilion is not
recognized at all in the roof-plan, though the germ arrange-
ment as it existed in the three log cabins is clearly recogniz-
able in the plan of the front.
Climatic conditions as much as anything encouraged the
development of this type of dwelling. Land was as cheap
in the Northern Stales and families there liked as weil as
those in the South to have ample space to wander about in
under cover, but the rigor of the winter months compelled
the adoption of a more condensed house-plan and the four-
1 I'lale 46, I'art X.
^I'latc 33. Part \'I.
" Slc cut, JJas^i; 57, \'oI. II.
their indwellers belonged to a less eager generation than ours,
they seem to tell us that beneath their silks and satins, behind
their frilled shirt-fronts, beat hearts affected by very homely,
human emotions. One can imagine the men of that time
treating their architects as Louis XIV treated his, that is,
understandingly. There must have been both understand-
ing and cordial cooperation to have wrought out structures
so well composed, so refined in the intention of the detail —
intention clearly, but, alas, not always, in the South at least,
refined as to the execution.
Climatic influences created two other peculiarities of
Southern houses. Towards the end of the eighteenth cen-
tury the early forms of heating-furnaces began to be intro-
duced, and their installation required a cellar, but they could
hardly have been the cause of the fact that a dug cellar was
a more common necessity in the North than in the South.
*See cut, pafje 28, \o\. II.
5 See cut, p;i.s;e 21, \o\. II.
"See cut, page 59.
MORE PECULIARITIES OF SOUTHERN COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE.
6i
It is more probable that the necessity of storing fruit and more dignified and stately, perhaps his advance to the head
vegetables safely away from the frost made cellars a necessity of his flight of steps had all the value of the advance of a
in New England, while the lack of such necessity and the feudal lord to the edge of his dais. ]!ut of one thing we
fashions imported with West Indian immigrants, who had may feel sure — both host and guest speedily retreated to
been habituated to having the air blow under their houses, the shadiest spot on the wide veranda.
made cellars in South Caro-
lina, say, a comparative
rarity. Be the secondary
causes what they may, the
primal ones — climatic influ-
ences— induced the South-
erner very generally to aban-
don his lower story to the
meaner domestic uses — to
the kitchen, storeroom, rub-
bish-rooms, servants' rooms
or what not, or, at least, to
the occupancy of the men
of the family, and make the
rooms of the second story
the scene of his domestic life.
Thanks to this peculiarity,
the houses of this particular
period are made interesting
by a great variety of exterior
stairs, in single, double or
treble runs, ascending to the
veranda of the first story or
to the generous porch at the
Sketcti stiowing Relation of the Charleston Entrance to Veranda Floor.
The veranda of the South-
ern house is now its dis-
tinctive feature, and its de-
velopment, which is easy to
trace, is clearly the satisfac-
tion of a climatic necessity.
The veranda, piazza, gallery,
call it what you will, is
worked into the house-plan
so obviously as a necessity
that one does not seem to be
offended in the later build-
ings by the general practice
of cutting athwart a great
Classic order with the floor
and balustrade of the sec-
ond-story veranda. An order
treated in this way in the
North would surely attract
adverse criticism, and even
in those cases where a form-
less order of square posts
has been made to support a
piazza floor at mid-height,
same level, and as stairs imply posts and hand-rails, the as in the case of the old Culyer house on Prospect Heights,
fashion has provided us with many an admirable specimen Brooklyn, one cannot but suspect that the house was origi-
of wrought ironwork. It is quite possible that hygienic nally built by, or for, some Southerner who, tired of planta-
considerations of a climatic kind had something to do with tion isolation, had migrated nearer to the haunts of his
this abandoning of the ground-floor to servile, in place of fellow-men, and not knowing that their climate had induced
polite, uses. The houses
where the b<l e/age is found
at the second floor are most
plentiful in the low rice-
growing lands of South Car-
olina, Georgia and Louisi-
ana, and very probably the
custom was dictated by
the prudential necessity of
keeping the women and chil-
dren of the family as much
above the morning and eve-
ning mist-line as possible. It
is this peculiarity that gives
the houses of the period built
in the far South an air very
different from the houses
built at the same time in
Virginia and Maryland,
which seem to suggest a
hospitality if not of a more
generous, at least of a
more active, kind : it is
clearly more easy to just
step out of doors from the
Old House, Park Avenue, New York, N. V.
in them different habits, or
else wilfully clinging to his
own, made his architect sur-
round his dwelling-place with
two-storied galleries. These
great houses with Classic
orders, these real " white
pillared houses of the
South," are very largely
tiie product of the Greek
revival — as is the old house
on Paik Avenue, New York,
whose important second-
story doorway has a hint of
Southern suggestiveness
about it — and belong to a
later time than tlie period
here considered. But they
merely amplified and clothed
with new graces a type of
structure already very fully
developed ; then, too, they
are so very architectural in
their composition that for
us they lack in great degree
the interest and charm of
level to meet your guest than
to take the trouble to run down a flight of steps, with tlie the earlier structures from which they developed.
certainty that you must toil up them again in his company, The peculiarity of the Charleston veranda has been referred
so that one infers an apparent difference of cordiality between to in a preceding paper, and explanation made that the door-
the greeting of the Virginia tobacco-grower and the South way in the screen-wall gave upon the steps leading to the
(Carolina cotlon-p.antcr. Perhaps the latter's welcome was lower veranda and not into the vestibule of the house. It
62
THE GEORGIAX PERIOD.
would seem that this arrangement must furnish a very perfect
dust-hole for the gatiiering of all the leaves that fall and all
the dust and straws that float about; but there is an obvious
need in a climate where open windows at night are the rule
that, in a city, a too easy access to the veranda upon which
windows open siiould not be afforded to the vagrant and
pilfering negro and his tramping white brother. In the
country, on the plantations, the same safeguard was not
called for, and so we find open flights of steps ramping up
to the house-door, which, being usually placed on the axis
of the front, gives a balanced central feature to the compo-
sition, which is often of great dignity.
Mr. Waterhouse has elsewhere accounted for the porch,
or portico, as a needed protection from the weather, which
the native or acquired hospitality of the householder pro-
vided for his guest, and in the North, and in other countries,
we have the porch treated in myriad interesting ways without
ever losing its character as being, first of all, a protection to
fellow) house ^ are a modern addition, and, liiough there are
many beautiful porches in Salem, there are few verandas,
and these mere abbreviations, like that of the Bertram house.'
It was only when social life in the Northern States had
taken on an idler habit, and it had been discovered that the
manner of life in the South during the heated term was dic-
tated by sound common sense, that we decided to copy that
feature of their dwellings that did so much to make life
endurable during a hot spell. Then the veranda and the
" piazza habit " were imported bodily, for both the veranda
and the habit were evolved and developed south of Mason
and Dixon's line.
Shade was, of course, the first desideratum, and if the
porch-roof could have given all the shade that was needed
there would probably have been no great outward difference
between the houses of the different sections of the country,
but as that was an impossibility it was a very natural thing
to expand the porch laterally, first along the sides of the
An Early Type of Veranda, "The Briars," near Natchez, Miss.
the visitor as he lingers at the house-door. It has been
deepened to afford greater shelter, and it has been widened
so as to make room for seats upon each side ; it has been
roofed in sundry ways, and that roof has been supported in
ways as various. Even when, as at " Shirley,"* it was given
a second story it still remained only a porch. The present
generation at the North is so habituated to living in houses
more or less surrounded by piazzas or verandas, these useful
adjuncts of the dwelling-houses have been so widely intro-
duced during the last generation or two in all parts of the
country, they have become such a distinctive feature of
American houses, that, doubtless, many feel that they are a
species of native growth that sprang up in any part or all
parts of the country at the same time. But the advent of
the piazza as we know it to-day is a comparatively recent
occurrence in the North. The verandas of the Vassal (Long-
house most exposed to the sun, and later, as it was found
that the veranda was a delightful place for the taking of
gentle exercise on rainy days, all around the house.
Homewood, Tulip Hill, Whitehall, Westover, Shirley, Mon-
ticello, Arlington, Brandon and many other of the manor-
houses of Maryland and Virginia are content with porches
or porticos. Berkeley* combines the covered veranda in its
simplest form with a two-story porch, while Mount Vernon,
almost alone of its class in that latitude, is endowed with a
real Southern veranda on the east front. More than this,
Mount Vernon, in this same veranda, indulges in some very
illiterate architectural forms, forms which Jefferson would
not have countenanced if he had been called in as adviser,
as he was at "Lower Brandon " — where, by the way, there
is a very interesting example of illiteracy in the capitals of
some of the porch-columns which were restored " after the
Page 35, Vol. II.
' Page 4, Vol. I.
8 1'late 31, Part VII.
* Page 39, Vol. II.
.^rORI'. PECULIARITIES OF SOUTHERN COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE
war." The ingenious local carpenter, fiiuling himself quite
unable to copy the Corinthian caps which still existed on
some of the columns, made his new caps by nailing about the
shaft selected portions of the jig-sawed brackets (with their
well-known barbaric forms and hideous counter-curvatures)
which he had been using in place of Classic modillions in
repairing the cornice. The result is a triumph of ingenuity,
and one feels as if the work might have been done by some
Babylonian master-builder. Southern work is fertile in such
displays of illiterate ingenuity. One would not so much
mind the illiteracy, but the failure of the ingenious intention
and the brutality of the workmanship are a constant disap-
pointment and offense. The doorway of St. Mary's Male
Academy * at Norfolk is merely an extreme case of the result
of degeneration in both the designer and the mechanic who
carried out his design.
At Mount Vernon the square veranda posts rest on the
cornice is interjected a mere square fragment of architrave
and frieze. At the South the column is, as it were, length-
ened below the base, while in this Northern case it is
lengthened above the capital.
The Southerners have used posts and columns so often in
providing the all-needful veranda that they have acquired
much skill and a considerable ingenuity in their disposition
and adjustment. But it is not so sure that there has been
any particular or regular development in their treatment, for
one of the very early houses shows a very perfect understand-
ing of how columns may be used to produce an impressive
and yet not over-stately and too architectural an effect.
Until within eighteen months^ there stood near Natchez,
Miss., an extremely interesting house known as "Concord,"
where we have great columns springing each from its own
foundation so that they appear the very outgrowth of the
soil itself, and these great seeming monoliths support in one
A I.\te Type of Veraiida showing Effect t.f tlie Greek Reviv.-il: Coleman House, M.icon, Ga. [iS^o.]
floor of the veranda as if on a stylobate, and this treatment
is the one that is most usually followed both North and
South; but in the later instances of porticoed Southern man-
sions the designer has frequently used a full order and
placed beneath his column a complete pedestal. This, when
a balustrade is introduced between the pedestals, does not
appear an unusual and, so, local treatment; but in many
cases there is no balustrade and then these pedestal-sup-
ported columns become characteristic of the Southern sec-
tion of the country. A curious reversal of this practice,
devised to the same end — to bring tiie veranda roof to tiie
level of the second-story ceiling — is found in tiie liertram
house at Salem, Mass.,' where between the capital and the
> Mate 37, Part X.
•I'late 31, I'art \II.
place merely the light wooden pediment-fronted gable roof
that overhangs, at two-story height, the twin stairs that ramp
up to the veranda proper, while in others they support,
in the main, merely the equally light roof that shades the
veranda. Then, at the reentrant angle where the porch
joins the veranda, support to the roof at that point is given
by naively using merely the upper halt of one of these great
columns, which here rests upon the outer wall of the lower
story, which at this point is brought out to the face of tiie
upper veranda floor. The curious thing is that this unortho-
dox disordering of Classic formulas not only looks entirely
proper, but adds tlie needed touch of lightness to what
would otherwise seem a rather ponderous treatment, and the
lightening process is carried a step farther by the introduction
3 "Concord" w^is burned in February, 1901.
64
THE GRORGIAN PERIOD.
in the intercolumniation of the great order of a smaller non-
descript order of piazza posts.
"Concord"^ was the home of the last of the Spanish gover-
nors and was built in 1789, by one named Grandpre, so it
is more than likely that the prototype of this interesting
structure should be sought first in the Spanish West Indies,
but in what direction afterwards to take the next step back-
wards we hardly knew. But taken as it stands, or stood for
Southern work, both in the refinement of detail and perfection
of workmanship, and it is all in favor of the Northern work.
For this difference there must be a reason, and perhaps it is
this: To this day, and quite apart from the efforts of poets
and prose-writers who have erected, if the term be admissi-
ble, the hearth into a shibboleth, the fireplace at the North
is the centre of home life and its enframement a matter of
concern and interest to all members of a household. It is
Elri
• ' .-, *- k -i -9 1^ ■■' . »f c £=^#: m -!-■
The Pyatt House: Rear, Georgetown, S. C.
Closed-in Verandas al Beaufort, S. C
so many years, it seems almost an ideal solution of the prob- natural, then, that as the family has this feature close before
lem. It is at once simple and yet abundantly dignified and its eyes at those brooding times when one seeks rest and
has, moreover, as suggested above, something of grace and comfort before it, the skill and the ingenuity of the selected
lightness : its thick walls promise an equable temperature designer should have been called on to make this household
within, while the projecting roofs and not too large windows shrine more and more refined. This done, the natural
assure relief from the overpowering brilliancy of a Southern sense of "keeping" led to the radiating of the same refining
summer's day. The use of jointed drain-pipe for down- influence, first through the room, then through the entire
spouts recalls the use of similar pipe for the same purpose interior of the house, and, finally, over the exterior, and
in China and adds to the columnar interest of the building, here, as the doorway is the chief exterior feature, a similar
The last step in the evolution of the veranda, or perhaps refinement centred mainly in the porch.
more properly the first, and
final, step in its devolution,
was due to the gregarious in-
stincts and social needs of
the householder. The open
veranda is all right during
most of the year, but there
are seasons when one's
guests are more comfortable
within walls, and there seem
to be many cases where the
owner has decided that a
satisfactory ball-room — that
essential feature of the house
of a Southern gentleman —
or a banqueting-hall, would
be of more use to him than a
A c!osed-in Veranda, Beaufort, S. C.
At the South, climatic con-
ditions made the gathering-
place where the family sought
rest and comfort, not the heat-
radialing fireplace, but rather
tiie cool external veranda, and
it happens that in the use
of this household shrine the
eye was habitually turned
away from its constructive
features and looked outward
to the charms of nature, and,
so, the work of the designer
distinctly had the cold
shoulder turned to it, and its
inaccuracies, discrepancies
and the coarseness of its de-
veranda ; and so we have houses whose interior accommoda. tails escaped a correcting observation. Even in approaching
tion has been increased by enclosing a veranda, as in the the house the veranda was observed merely as one of the large
case of the Pyatt house at Georgetown, or the house at parts of the external whole and the owner was more anxious
Beaufort shown by the annexed cut, where the line between to reach its refreshing shade than to spend time in consider-
the original veranda floor and the later tabby-built wall above ing its lack of correct and refined detail. We think that
is clearly to be seen. And there is another curious old house climatic influences alone may be enough to account for the
in the same place which shows how, as the family member- greater refinement and delicacy of detail in Northern Colo-
ship increases, verandas, which both downstairs and up, were nial work, just as they explain why the outside of the South-
originally but idling and cooling-off places, may be economi- em building and its more generous plan received a greater
cally converted to the more prosaic uses of dressing, nursing consideration from the owner and his designer there, who
and sleeping. knew that a large part of the family's time was to be spent
There is indisputably a difference between Northern and outside of it, and, hence, it was desirable to give to the gen-
^'PlateTy lart^x! erous plan as agreeable an external expression as possible.
French Santee, South Carolina.
ABOUT forty miles north of Charleston, and some more and more into disrepair — where a few descendants of
fifteen miles south of the quaint old city of George- Huguenot planters and Revolutionary soldiers cling fondly
town lies the " Santee River region," one of the to the traditions of their ancient dwellings.
earliest-settled portions of South Carolina. Much The Santee region proper is that entire tract of land through
of the architecture there is old and interesting, and some of which the Santee River flows, but the particular portion now
It IS quite unique. referred to lies between the north and south branches of the
This section of the State is but little known to the public, river. About twenty miles from its mouth the Santee forks,
but maintains a quaint Old-World existence of its own ; yet forming two wide yellow streams (with a delta of increasing
prior to the Revolution it was second to no other part of width between) by means of which it empties itself into the
South Carolina in social importance, for the tax-returns sea. This delta, which is really a triangular inland island,
of that period show that over five thousand negro slaves inasmuch as it is surrounded on two sides by the Santee
were kept busy in the Santee swamps, and that the planters and on the third by the sea, and the low-lying lands on either
of that region had by that time acquired affluence, and in bank, having been enriched from time to time by alluvial de-
many instances great posits from frequent
wealth. The old houses
of this locality are seldom
simple in design, as the
agricultural pursuits of
their builders, and their
present remoteness from
modern progress, would
lead one to expect them
to be, but are planned
inore or less after the
ideals of the French and
English aristocracy, with
great guest-chambers,
spacious dining-rooms
and, not infrequently, a
ball-room ; for two things
governed tiieir erection
— the desired comfort of
their occupants and the
wish to meet the demands
of social life as it existed
among the rich rice-plant-
ers of the " Santee River
region." The sleeping-
rooms were spacious, well
provided with closets and
overflows, were once the
richest rice-lands in
the South. At that period
immense crops of grain
were realized at the high-
est values, peace and
plenty filled the land,
and the fine old houses
■ were furnished with every
comfort and supplied
with retinues of thor-
oughly trained servants.
In the winter they were
filled with guests, but the
first breath of summer
found them deserted, for
the curse of this locality,
as of all oilier low-lying
sections in the South, is
intermittent fever. To
escape it, the planters of
the Santee region took
j theirfamilies to Pineville,'
a village now in ruins,
j which formerly occupied
a high ridge of piney land
well lighted. Almost invariably the houses had wide veran- two miles south of the Santee Swamp, and five miles from
das at the back and front and were well situated. They the river.
were, in fact, roomy abodes well adapted to the climate and A long summer at Pineville was an ideal existence. Being
they represent a mode of life, once typical, that has largely all Huguenot planters of the Santee the inhabitants were all
passed away in the far South of the United States. Little social equals, and all Episcopalians. Furthermore, they
remains now, even in the romantic Santee region, to witness were all more or less related by intermarriage. Naturally
to that life but these old houses — falling year after year they met without consciousness of social inferiority, and
'The materials used in construction were almost invariably ]uig- woods, buiiiu; at the same time straijjlit-ijrained, soft, and easily
lish brick and cvprt-ss, in whiih tlie fertile swamps of the .Santee worked, and, therefore, invaluable for car])entry. Instances are
region abound, and which, probably, accounts for tlie fact that, known of doors and posts of cypress that have lasted i,ioo\ears.
even in their half-abandoned state, the houses are so well preserved. 2]'ineville was established in 1794 and abandoned in iSiy.
Cypress, as is generally known, is one of the most durable of
65
Old Wainbnro [St. James's] Chiircli, French Santee [ij^'^J-
66
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
BED ROOM
=CK>
WEAItrA^T BM
MXS
indulged in similar social habits, which, by the way, were typi-
cal of the people and the period. Breakfast at Pineville was
commonly served at sunrise, after which each planter went on
horseback to visit his plantation, taking care to arrive there
after the sun was an hour or so high and all danger of in-
fection passed until after sun-
down. At one o'clock dinner
was served and a portion of the
afternoon that followed was de-
voted to sleep. Every piazza at
Pineville was furnished with long
benches, and upon these rude
resting-places the gentlemen of
the house indulged in the luxury
of a siesta. The afternoon nap
over, tea and hot cakes were
served. Seven o'clock supper
closed the day, for which every
one made a formal toilet, just as
in England they dress for dinner.
Then social life began, visits be-
insr made and received while the
arrriNo sn
yiN<i ROO"^
Hampton."
work, Pineville emptied itself back into the Santee rice and
cotton fields and protracted house-parties took the place of
the daily coming and going of guests. These balls on the
whole were very simple affairs and began early. The lady
leading the first set called the figures, and such dear roman-
tic old tunes as " Money Musk,"
" Haste to the Wedding," and
" La Belle Catherine " were popu-
lar favorites at Pineville long
after they had been forgotten
elsewhere. The staple dance of
every evening's entertainment
was the cotillon. Late in the
evening the reel was called and
the gayeties were concluded
with the boulanger, "a dance,"
says a clever writer, "whose quiet
movements seerrw to come in ap-
propriately in order to allow the
revellers to cool off before expos-
ing themselves to the night air."
The boulangbr, by the way, was
• E.^LL ROOM
» » f i
entertainers and those entertained sat upon verandas in the the most important dance of the evening, for the partners
soft starlight, laughing and chatting, wliile great bonfires walked home together by the ligiit of a lantern held by a
sparkled and sputtered before them, making bright the dark servant, who hurried on ahead. Fever was the summer epi-
yard. It was the custom at Pineville to light these bonfires demic in the Santee swamps, but love and love-making were
as soon as heavy dusk set in, and they were the unfailing summer epidemics at Pineville.
features of every evening's festivities. The tract of land marked " French Santee" on all the old
' Hiimpton, " on the Santee, Home of the Riilledges.
Riding, hunting, fishing, dancing and visiting were the maps of the Carolinas took its name from the fact that in
amusements at Pineville, and who would ask for any better.? 1689,' or thereabouts, a colony of French Huguenots, in
The season closed every year with a Jockey Club Ball, after all a hundred and eighty families, driven from France by the
which, the much desired frost having done its nurifvino- ~T7^ :, ^- '■ — :, — TT 7 '
■j, uuiic 11.3 puiiijing 1 Some autlionties give the date as 1694.
FRENCH SANTEE, SOUTH CAROLINA.
67
Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, settled tlia High Hills
of the Santee and the low lands referred to, which were to be
afterwards known as St. James's Parish. Among these im-
migrants were some bearing names that are well known in
South Carolina to this day, such as Huger, Porcher, Ravenel,
Legar^, St. Julien, Prioleau, Du Bosc, De Saussure, Laurens,
Mazycks, Manigault and many others. Almost all of these
French people built tiieir homes on the banks of tiiese to-be-
historic waters, some set- ^
tling in the low delta be-
tween the two forks of the
river; others migrating
farther south to what was
afterwards St. Stephen's
Parish, or " English San-
tee," as it was popularly
called; and still others
pushing as far inland as
what is now St. John's
Parish.
At the time of the Revo-
lutionary War the Santee
River was settled by de-
scendants of the French
Huguenots, from French
Santee to Eutaw Springs
— where General Morgan
finally overcame the cruel
Tarleton in 1781 — most
of whom owned savan-
nahs of one size or an-
other and cultivated crops
of rice, indigo or cotton.
One of the best known Santee savannahs was -'The
Rocks," which was acquired by Captain Guillard in 1794,
and owned by his descendants for generations. "White
Plains" was also well known, as was " Milford," the estate of
General Moultrie. " Wantoot " was the savannah of Daniel
Ravenel,' the son of Rene Ravenel, the first of the name in
America. " Gravel Hill " was a place of considerable celeb-
rity on the Santee, and "Belle Isle," the plantation of that
illustrious soldier Francis Marion, though in wretched repair,
is still to be seen by the occasional visitor who makes a pil-
grimage to it. The place is now owned by one of General
Marion's descendants and namesakes. The house* is practi-
cally deserted and the plantation is not always under cultiva-
tion. Though unoccupied and fast falling into ruins, the
house is full of quaint old family relics, such as mahogany
furniture in excellent designs, old books and old crockery,
all left to dust and decay.
The present inhabitants of old French Santee are for the
most part the descendants of the original settlers, and their
homesteads have come to them through generations. Al-
though the original Huguenots made no effort to preserve
their nationality, and their children were allowed to speak
English and were encouraged to become loyal adherents to
the British crown, there still remain in the domestic life of the
The Deserted Parlor : "Hampton.'
region many traces of the origin of the people who inhabit
it. The pillau, for instance, is even now a coiiinion dish on
their tables, and that cake called in England a waffle is known
by them as a.gauffre. In suminertime superfluous fresh meat
is still "jerked"; and in French Santee, as elsewhere in South
Carolina where the influence of the French Huguenot and
his customs have invaded, potted meats still delight the
senses with their peculiarly savory odors and delicious flavors.
. Names, too, are pro-
nounced there with a for
eign accent to this day.
Thus, Du Bosc is " Du
Biisk " in French Santee,
and Marion " Mahion."
Up to a hundred years
ago, the Santee region was
well settled and populous.
It was connected with
Georgetown and Charles-
ton by means of a well-kept
stage-road travelled daily
by the ponderous vehicles
of those times, drawn by
four stout horses, and hav-
ing post-houses and tav-
erns for the refreshment of
travellers at intervals along
the route. But the old-
fashioned stage has also
disappeared into the past,
and the French Santee is
inaccessible to the outside
world for a distance of
* Daniel Ravenel died in 1.S07.
' See cuts, pa;;es 6.S, 69.
' Dalcho, in his " Cluinh History " of South Carolina, gives the
following account of St. .Stephen's Church : The I'arish of St.
Stephen's was laid out al)Out i 762. Tlie church is one of tlie
handsomest of the county cliurches of South Carolina, and would
be no mean ornament to Cliarleston. It is built of brick and
neatly finished. It stands on the main river road about 12 1-2
miles from the Santee canal. The north and south sides are orna-
mjnted with six Doric pilasters and each end with four of the
forty miles save by private conveyance. Gone, too, are the
inns, and the traveller is now compelled to make his trip
through this almost trackless wilderness in a single day, what-
ever be the weather or condition of his team. Here is heard
no shriek of locomotive, no whistle of steamer. No tourist
treads its solemn groves of pine, or wanders in delight under
the cathedral arches of its mighty oaks.
That portion of Craven County south of the Santee River
is marked by a species of solitary grandeur almost un-
equalled of its kind. Uninterrupted forests of pine and
cypress trees stretch off endlessly, with what were once well-
worn avenues running through them, and an occasional
stately old home looming up in the lonely distance. Now
and then a church coiues in view, St. Stephen's,' for instance,
which stands so that it can be seen from afar by those who
approach it from the west, or the east, by the main, or river
road. This church,* like the old homes of those inhabitants
who planned it and who once made up the society of French
Santee, tells a story of past importance and present desola-
tion. All around it are graves, some of which are quite lost
in the fast-encroaching wood ; others are enclosed by walls
and marked with quaint stones, and overrun with creepers.
The stones of many have fallen and those that are still stand-
ing are worn by the wind and weather of years. " If you
same order. Upon a brick on the south side is inscribed '• A. 1 low-
ard, Sev. 1 767," and on another " F. Villepontoux, Sev. lyl'iy,"
these being the names of the architects. At the east end is a large
slashed window and tlie usual tables of the decalogue and com-
mandments. At the west end is a large gallery, pewed. There
are fortv-tive pews on tlie ground floor, which is tiled. There is a
handsome mahogany pulpit, on the front panel of which are tlie
initials '• I. H. S." The ceiling is finished in the same manner as
that of St. Michael's Church, Charleston.
M'late IS, Part XI.
68
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
stand on one side of the church," says a writer, recalling his
visit to St. Stephen's, " and look through the open doors (and
they are never closed), you see a road coming from the south.
. . . On the right and on the left the same unbroken line of
road appears. In this perfect solitude, whence do they come ?
Strange and mysterious traces of life and civilization! To
what end do they appear to have been constructed ? In tiiis
perfect solitude, whence do they come, whither do they lead ?
turned to the church, where they are still used whenever it is
opened.
Mrs. Rebecca Motte, by the way, was one of the most cele-
brated Colonial heroines of the South, and the mistress of
three historic homes. One of these was the Miles Brewton
house,^ of Charleston, which she inherited from her brother's
estate, and which was occupied by the British during the Rev-
olution, as their headquarters. Another was "Fort Motte,"
n
■ LAN pi HO y
3
First-story Plan.
— "Belle Isle." —
Second-story Plan.
Strange that at this spot they should unite, and that they all
lead to the grave."
What St. Stephen's is to English Santee, St. James's —
commonly called "Old Wamboro " Church — is to French
Santee. This quaint old Colonial relic, wliich ranks third in
age among the churches of South Carolina, stands close to
the old stage-road, not far
from the celebrated estate
of Mrs. Daniel Horry called
"Hampton," and about
three miles from the Santee
Ferry. It is built of bricks
brought from England in
the reign of Queen Anne
and was first opened for
worship in 1768. The
building is square, massive,
and without grace of archi-
tecture. It is paved with
brick within and furnished
with the high-backed pews
of the period and almost
equally high, narrow-
benches which serve as
seats and run around the
sides of the pews. It is in
excellent repair, though sel-
dom opened for service.
Mrs. Rebecca Motte gave
a ponderous Bible and
prayer-books to this church
with her name and " St. James, Santee," stamped in gilt let-
ters on the covers. So large is the Bible that it can scarcely
be lifted in one's arms; yet a British soldier conceived the
extraordinary idea of carrying it off to England as a trophy,
together w-ith the altar service. There, some years after the
Revolution, these stolen articles, exposed for sale in a Lon-
don book-stall, were purchased by a liritish officer, who had
known Mrs. Motte and received kindness from her, and re-
1 Platesi.S-26, I'art .\.
on the Congaree River, which was also seized by the British
and defended by a stockade, and which Mrs. Motte fired with
her own hands in order to oust them from it and force a
Federal victory under Generals Marion and Lee. The third,
" El Dorado," ' was a rice plantation on the Santee, where she
movfcd immediately after the Revolution and erected a dwell-
ing on the estate. In this
work she was assisted by
her son-in-law. Gen. Thomas
Pinckney, aide-de-camp to
Washington and later one
of the early Governors of
South Carolina. "El Do-
rado," in all its quaint beau-
ty, filled as it was with his-
toric relics, was burned to
the ground several years
ago. Mrs. Henry Rut-
ledge, a member of the
Pinckney and Horry fami-
lies, a descendant of Re-
becca Motte's and formerly
a constant visitor at " EI
Dorado," writes the follow-
ing description of the old
place for the ^'■Georgian
Period" : —
"'El Dorado,' "she says,
"was approached by a
broad, straight avenue,
guarded on either side by
oaks and magnolias. The central part of the house was occu-
pied by a spacious hall and a beautifully proportioned room
used as a library or parlor. The ceiling of this room was lofty,
the windows and doors equally so. The walls were panelled in
cypress and the whole finished by a handsome carved cornice
running all around the top of the room. The narrow mantel-
piece, of an impossible height, requiring a step-ladder to reach
it, was also carved, as was the doorway — befitting the entrance
« Plates 18, 19, Part XI. '
FREXCH SAXTEE, SOUTH CAROLINA.
69
to an old baronial castle — that led into the hall. On either up to the house is remarkably beautiful, and the trees are
side of this central part were large projecting wings contain- very aged. Doubtless, Tarleton rode under them in their vig-
ing bedrooms of the same lofty type. These opened on a orous youth.
wide corridor, on the opposite side of which were many large Situated higher up the river is "Hampton," ^before referred
windows that looked out on the courtyard below. These to, the home of the Horrys and Rutledges — a fine wide-
The Front.
— ■' Belle Isle," lieaufort, S. C —
wings were connected by a long, sunny piazza. On the north spreading house with lofty pillared portico and a stretch of
side of the house was a large porch inlaid with tiles — black cultivated ground around it reaching out to the woods beyond.
and white — and enclosed by an iron balustrade. The roof Of it, Mrs. Rutledge^ writes as follows : —
was supported by massive cypress pillars, which were entirely " The central portion of the house is very old, though no one
concealed by ivy. Ivy and a climbing rose clothed with knows the exact date of its erection, and the cypress steps
tender grace the somewhat ruinous double flight of stone that lead to the second story are worn by the feet of many
steps which led to the grounds
below, where was once a laby-
rinth of evergreens, and wind-
ing paths led in and out in a
bewildering maze. In these
grounds have been found both
cannon-balls and grape-shot
that have lain there a hundred
years."
" Fairfield " ' is another
South Santee mansion of anti-
quity. It is now fitted up as
the "South Santee Sports-
man's Club," and is beauti-
fully situated on a blufl forty
feet above the river, of which
it commands a wide view, up
and down. A walk shaded
with evergreens runs at the
edge of the bluff for a quarter
of a mile. It is an ideal
winter home, protected equally
from the north and east wind
by dense shrubberies on either
hand. It was built prior to
the Revolution by a member
of the Pinckney family and
was Tarleton's headquarters
'^'h^^l^
Mantcljiiec
generations. These rooms
are small and the ceiling low,
but this original house of
eight rooms was enlarged by
Mrs. Daniel Horry immedi-
ately after the Revolution, af-
fording a well-proportioned
parlor with large bedrooms
behind as one wing, and as
the other a ball-room of noble
dimensions and lofty arched
ceiling that runs up to the
floor of the attic, there being
no intervening rooms on the
second story. The flooring
of this room is perfectly laid
and admirably adapted for
dancing. It has many large
windows, on the cypress panels
between which may be seen
the traces of the mirrors and
sconces which once hung
there. The handsome cornice
and mantel are carved, as at
' Kl Dorado,' but the main
feature of the room is the
huge fireplace, into which vis-
itors may walk at their ease
and examine the pictured tiles which line either side. Mrs.
%$>mg^mS!A
I'.Uiet"
while he was in this neighborhood ; but it lias been so mod-
ernized as to leave little trace of its original form, except its Horry and her predecessors understood the comfort and
tiled roof and stack chimneys. The grove of oaks that lead convenience of closets, for there are fifteen in the house,
1 See cut, pao-e 70. 'Mrs. Rutledge and her husband are the present owners of
' See cut pa'^e 66. " TIami)ton." No one, therefore, could be better qualified than
she to give an account of its many quaint features.
•JO
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
some of them large enough for dressing-rooms, with broad Still another quaint residence of this remote country was
cypress shelves that could furnish better sleeping accommo- " Woodville," which has also been destroyed of late by fire,
dations than many old-time steamboats. At the back of the It was built about 150 years ago — all the materials being
house the ground slopes gently to a pretty creek, beyond imported from England. The family were English, and its
' Fairfield," on the South Saiitee, now the South Santee Sportsman's Club. [1763.
which rice-fields stretch to the river ; and this slope is cov-
ered with shrubberies, intersected by walks, where birds and
squirrels make their happy homes ; and in the waim spring
days the air is redolent with the per-
fume of sweet shrubs.
" ' Hampton ' claims an honor beyond
the other houses in the neighborhood,
for General Washington was once its
guest. During his Southern tour, in
May, 1 79 1, he breakfasted with Mrs.
Horry on his way from Georgetown to
Charleston. As the sister of his per-
sonal friends Gen. Charles Cotesworth
Pinckney, who was defeated for the
Presidepcy, in 1800, by John Adams,
and Gen. Thomas Pinckney, both of
whom were on his personal staff during
the Revolution, she was known to him
and he graciously accepted her invita-
tion to break his long ride of fifty miles
by a rest at her house. The constant
wear of a hundred years has compelled
the renewal of most of the front steps
by which he entered the house, but two
still remain of the original flight. In
the cool and spacious ball-room the table was laid, and care-
fully treasured by Mrs. Horry's descendants may be still
seen at ' Hampton ' some of the Wedgwood china used on
the occasion."
Fairfield.
appearance reminded one of a keep — without the castle to
which it might have belonged. " Imagine," says Mrs. Rut-
ledge, " a circular excavation paved and walled with brick.
The earth that was thrown out forms a
sloping terrace from the top of the
brick wall to the low-lying ground
around. This is now overgrown with
grass, but removing this and the deep
layer of soil on which it grows, the
traces of an elevated brick walk, per-
haps fifteen feet wide, may be seen en-
circling the entire moat. In the centre
of the courtyard thus formed stood the
turret-like house of four stories — two
rooms on a floor. Handsome granite
steps bridged the moat back and front,
leading to graceful porticos defended
with iron railings that give entrance to
the second story. The interior of the
house was richly decorated with carving
and mouldings. The doors, mantels and
cornices all were interesting and ornate.
The folding shutters are exceedingly
curious, and nothing could exceed the
quaintness of the tiny attic, full of un-
expected corners, weird low cuddy doors, and even here two
bedrooms as large as modern doll-houses."
Although the spirit of modern progress has forgotten old
" French Santee," nature continues to smile on this quaintly
SOME ESTATES ON THE ASHLEY AND COOPER RIVERS
71
remote region. " In the springtime," says Mrs. Rutledge,
"the swamps are unsurpassed in loveliness. The wealth of
flowers and variety of exquisite shades of green of the shrubs
make it a delight to live out of doors there. The yellow
jessamine comes first in point of time, as well as in perfec-
tion of beauty, grace and perfume. Then there is the Chero-
kee rose, climbing with its strong arms to the tops of the
tallest trees and drooping thence in immense festoons of
glossy dark-green leaves and snowy blossoms. The wistaria
abounds on all the water-courses, and the red woodbine and
a bush resembling the spirea — a snowy white from top to
bottom — grow side by side on the river-banks. The dog-
wood gleams ghost-like through the vistas of the forest, the
fragile fringe-tree is a dream of grace, and the honeysuckle,
in varying shades of white and pink, makes the air faint with
perfume, while in the clear streams the iris — true 'fleur-de-
lis ' of France — grows in profusion. In the sandy soil under
the pines are found immense dark-blue violets with stems from
four to five inches long. Beds of tiny scented white ones
edge the morasses and the banks of the rice-fields are car-
peted with a prolific light-blue variety."
Until recently this region was a famous hunting-ground,
for wild turkey, wild duck, woodcock and snipe abounded,
and a hundred years ago the old stage regularly transported
hampers of game to the city homes of the rice-planters of the
old " French Santee." c. R. S. Horton.
^^^
The Old Baptist Schoolhouse, Beaufort, S. C.
fs..^
Some Estates on the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, S. C.
DRAYTON HALL Ms the only family mansion on
the Ashley River near Charleston which escaped
the torch applied by Sherman's Army. It also
would have shared the common destiny but for
the fact that the Drayton family was divided against itself,
and Capt. Percival Drayton, of the United States Navy, a
brother of Gen. Thomas S. Drayton, commander in the Con-
federate Army, and the then owner of Drayton Hall, was
stationed outside the bar with the fleet that so long block-
aded Charleston Harbor. Realizing the danger that threat-
ened the family mansion he sent a special guard to protect it.
The estate, of which this fine old relic is a part, joins an-
other equally celebrated, known as "Magnolia on the Ash-
ley." Both of these properties are entailed in the Drayton
family, and, although they are now owned by distant cousins,
were originally settled by father and son.
Thomas Drayton, the founder of the family, was one of
the many Englishmen who came from the Barbadoes with
Sir Thomas Yeamans. He received a grant from the Crown
comprising several thousand acres, which he settled in 1761,
calling the place "Magnolia on the Ashley," because of the
magnolia-grandiflora trees that grew there in natural abun-
dance. In 1742, John Drayton, the eldest son of Thomas
Drayton, and himself the father of William Henry Drayton,
one of the distinguished men of the Revolution and the grand-
father of John Drayton, a governor of South Carolina, built
Drayton Hall on an adjoining tract.
' Plate 39, Part X.
The glace takes its name from the family estate in North-
amptonshire, England, and the hall itself cost ninety thousand
dollars, all the materials being imported from England. It
is still in excellent preservation, although unoccupied, and is
built of red brick with columns of Portland marble. The stair-
case, mantel and wainscot, which extends in quaint fashion
from floor to ceiling, are of solid mahogany richly carved and
panelled. Over the mantel are stationary carved frames for
family portraits and heraldic devices ; and the great fire-
place is inlaid with antique colored tiles. To this day many
stories are told of the dinners and balls held at Drayton
Hall in the great old days, when the house would be ablaze
with a thousand tapers, and carpets were laid down the stair-
cases, front and back, and across the gardens, so the ladies
might alight from their carriages and enter the Hall without
soiling their delicate slippers or the airy lace and satin of
their robes.
" Magnolia on the Ashley "has been less fortunate than
Drayton Hall, for its dwelling has been twice destroyed by
fire, once during the Revolution, after which it was rebuilt,
and later by Sherman's Army. Its chief glory is now its
gardens, which are among the finest in the world, and are
visited annually by thousands of tourists. Their most pictur-
esque feature is the display of azaleas in all shades and
tints, crimson and pink, and blue and purple, with now
and then a pure white bush. The gardens are in perfect
preservation. Smooth walks wind through rich wildernesses
of color; placid lakes mirror a thousand diff'erent hues;
72
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
great live-oak trees are weighted down with moss; and walls
of rhododendrons and banks of golden banksias lend their
gay colors to the brilliant picture.
Before the azaleas begin to decline, the camellia-ja-
ponica trees burst into flower and delight the onlooker
with perfections undreamed of. There are six acres of
these, white and pink and mottled, which grow in clusters
of great cone-shaped bushes, scentless and cold, but exquisite
to behold in the tropical luxuriance of these unequalled
gardens. A little later as the spring advances the magnolia
trees come to blossom. Then, indeed, the place is an en-
chanted spot worthy of a queen in state. The waters of the
Atlantic ebb and flow languorously in the river, where on
each bank the lush grass grows. The air is heavy with fra-
gardener who is associated with early American history.
He did considerable fine work in and around Charleston,
and at one time had charge of Sir William Middleton's gardens
at Shrubland, Suffolk, which are celebrated, even in England,
for their extent and beauty. One of the things planted at
Middleton Place by Michaux was a camelliajaponica bush
which thrived prodigiously, quite outclassing in perfection
any others planted at the same time, or since, in fact.
It so happened that some fifty or sixty years ago, Mr.
William Middleton, on one of his visits to England, had a
permit to inspect the gardens of Windsor Castle. The head-
gardener showed him through all the greenhouses, pointing
out first one, then another of the choice specimens there.
Finally, he led him to a house apart from the others, in the
A C.arden Walk, " Magiiolia on ihe Asliley.
grance, and the great trees loom in stately inasses, sheltering
their proud blossoms amid the cool shadows of waxy leaves.
In the midst of all this floral munificence stands the tomb ^
of the Draytons', where six generations are sleeping.
The camellia japonica, by the way, is one of the show
flowers of the lowlands of South Carolina, where, though not
indigenous, it reaches even greater perfection than in the land
of its birth. One of the finest camelliajaponica trees in the
world is at " Middleton Place," on the Ashley River, not far
from Drayton Hall. The house of Middleton Place is now
in ruins, having been one of the many burned by Sherman's
Army ; but the garde-ns give evidence, even at this late day,
of the great perfection they attained at one time. They
were laid out in 1750 by Michaux, a celebrated landscape-
^ Platu 20, I'art XI.
centre of which was a small camellia bush showing some
twenty or thirty blooms.
" There ! " said the head-gardener with pride. " Is not that
beautiful ? Is it not superb — unique ? "
"It is very pretty, indeed,'' said Mr. Middleton, or words
to that effect.
"I consider it the choicest specimen in the entire collec-
tion," said the head-gardener. '■ Do you not agree with
me? '
" Yes," replied Mr. Middleton, " I think perhaps it is."
The gardener was chagrined at the evident lack of enthusi-
asm on the part of the American, and pressed him further.
" But isn't it the finest bush of the kind you ever saw ? "
"Well, no," replied Mr. Middleton. "I have in my
garden at home a camellia-japonica tree that is twenty feet
SOME ESTATES ON THE ASHLEY AND COOPER RIVERS.
71
high, and when I left it had on it, as near as I can calculate,
about four thousand blooms."
" Why, bless my soul ! " exclaimed the Queen's gardener,
"you must be a Middleton of Middleton Place, in the Caro-
linas. We know of that tree. It was planted by Michaux
in 1750, and is one of the botanical wonders."
Nature is in a bountiful mood on the banks of the Ashley
River, and occasionally takes it into her head there to do
her very best, as in this instance, and again in the case of a
giant live-oak tree in the pasture of Drayton Hall which has
grown to enormous size and perfection, and was pronounced
by Professor Sargent, the botanist, the most beautiful tree of
its kind in the world. This live-oak, in common with all
trees near the South Carolina coast, is draped with tillandsia,
that peculiar mosslike growth peculiar to lowland forests
near the Southern Sea.
The wonderful productiveness of the Ashley River region
made it formerly the seat of the rich cavalier planters of
South Carolina. The Izard family resided near "The Oaks,"
near Goose Creek Church, which was settled in 1678.
"Crowfield ' was, until 1754, another residence of the Mid-
dleton family. "Ashley Hall" was the home of the Bull
family. Across, on Cooper River were many other splendid
old homes : " Yeamans Hall " was built there by Sir Thomas
Yeamans about 1680.
"The house," says an early chronicler, " was of brick, said
to have been brought over from England. It was a two-
story structure with basement, almost square, with an exten-
sion in the rear, and a broad veranda at the front. The
interior was elegantly finished. The walls were painted in
panels representing landscapes, and hung with tapestries.
The large fireplaces wc;re lined with Dutch tiles in blue and
white, depicting Biblical scenes. At the time of my visit the
house had not yet been burned, and remains of this former
beauty could be seen in the broken cornices and handsome
mouldings around the rooms. Entering from the front you
came into a large hall, with an immense chimney-place in one
corner; from this hall led doors communicating with four
rooms, another door gave access to the rear of the house,
from which a staircase led to the upper story. Between the
walls of the upper and lower stories of an extension in
the rear of the building was situated a secret chamber, ac-
cess to which was had through a trap-door concealed in a
closet.
" This house was constructed with a view to defense in case
of any attack from hostile Indians. In the basement the
walls are pierced at intervals on all sides with loopholes for
firearms, as is also the wall of the staircase leading to the
upper floor. In the basement once could be seen the en-
trance to an underground tunnel, arched with brick, which
led to an opening near the creek, thus affording a means of
escape for the family if hard pressed. There was a haunted
chamber where the ghost of a stately dame, arrayed in costly
brocade, was wont to appear."
Mulberry Towers, the home of the Broughton family, com-
monly called "The Mulberry," is also on the Cooper River;
likewise " Belvedere," and the ruins of " Medway," the home
of Landgrave Thomas Smith.
At the time of the Revolution social life on the Ashley and
Cooper rivers was conducted on a splendid scale, equalled
only by that of the gentleman planters of the James River.
The English who settled that section, by the way, the Harri-
sons, the Byrds, the Carters and the Berkeleys, were of the
same political and social class as those who composed
the society of the Ashley and Cooper rivers, and their
homes for the most pai't, though on the whole less architect-
ural because of the inability to secure skilled labor, represent
the same general ideas of construction. H.
Q Q
Q
^|iM#-~iNi
7^
Q Q
Q
'The Wedge," South Santee, S. C.
Beaufort, S. C, an Island Capital.
AFTER a stay in dull and tedious commercial Savan-
nah, the little sea-trip to Beaufort was a welcome
change and full of interest. Sailing about noon,
the little steamer slipped slowly down the river,
past the old wharves and warehouses and the newer docks of
the cotton-freighted steamers, which afTord more picturesque-
ness than any otlier feature in the city, for, be it remembered,
the city being built on a high bluff, on the southern bank, the
warehouses and offices which line the edge of the bluff, while
to the south presenting a front of only two or three stories,
in the rear descend sheer seven or eight stories, frowning like
precipices with their granite walls and heavy stacks of chim-
hilarity was infectious. Many of them were looking forward to
a cake-walk on the morrow night, and were dressed in their
Sunday best. One little dandy, in patent leathers, polished
his shoes no less than four times that afternoon. A party
of young women were discussing the vagaries of a too amor-
ous father. " So you poppa gone mahyid again." " Sho, my
poppa done bring home a new step-momma, an' I ain't gwine
to Stan' it. He don't count anyway." " Well," exclaims a
companion, " if my poppa were to bring home a new step-
momma, I'd kill him." Whether disaster followed the father
in question or not, the incident was soon forgotten in the in-
terest aroused by the setting out from the shore of one of
l£}^y- gfTncet Front
s.C.
neys ; and the winding cuts from the higher level to the
cobble-stoned street flanking the wharves have an ancient
and somewhat military appearance. After passing out of the
river and by Tybee Island and lighthouse, the "Nahant" of
Savannah, we take a northerly but not an open-sea course,
as a stranger half expects, zigzagging through an endless
series of islands, all characteristically similar, low and flat,
but looking deliciously cool, fringed with the ever-present
•Georgia palms, and tall salt grasses, so bleached in the sun
that they vie with the silver strand in whiteness. Here and
there a white cottage or some farm-steading breaks the
solitariness, and stands in relief against some distant wood-
land, while a column of smoke from some camping party
may be seen pirouetting skyward.
There was a merry party of colored folks aboard, and their
the islands of a boat which met us and took off a number of our '
colored contingent amid screams of greeting and farewell,
and the promise to meet on the morrow night. And so on,
ever and anon, a boat would pull out to us in mid-stream and
take on a few passengers and various freight, not forgetting
many flasks of vile whiskey. It was the same experience
as on the canals in Santee. Many, many times we stopped to
supply some boat-load with soft wood (to be used as torches
at night in the raid on the rice-birds), or grain, but most
often with a number of " sealed packages " of whiskey, and
away the boat's-crew would pull back to their eyrie through
some inlet in the tall pampas grasses fringing the islands.
Then we stopped at some military post, where a number of
officers and men in khaki uniform were at the pier-end to
take all in and be taken in by many critical glances of
74
BEAUFORT, S. C, AN ISLAND CAPITAL.
75
the fair sex. About six o'clock we reached Port Royal, the arated from home lies. After inspecting the new dry-dock
naval station, and there discharged a good deal of freight, there, we went aboard again and pursued our journey for
Door-head : Franz House, Beaufort, S. C.
Door-head: "Mount lirlstol," Beaufort, S. C.
r ,^^rwi^^^^''
■%^...-;,,,,
'Tabby-built" Cabins, St. Catherine's Isl.ind, Coast of Georgia.
'^
..i^mmi'j^wm^
^^mfflii^K
Old College Building, Beaufort, S. C.
*(.
/a^n'-
.m
" Mount Bristol," Beaufort, S. C.
conspicuous amongst which were some ample cases of Motjt the four or five miles more that brought us to Beaufort. As the
& Chandon, to enliven the dull tedium of officialdom sep- evening darkened the full moon rose, and, with a sky of
76
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
deep turquoise, the water without a ripple and reflecting the
sky, as we neared the town, where from the deep shadow of
heavy foliage peeped many old and galleried houses, silvered
by the moonlight, and all again mirrored in the glassy waters,
there was presented a
picture indelibly im-
pressed on one's mem-
ory. Beaufort, the
dreamy, silent, quaint,
with gardens redolent
of opopanax and many
odorous shrubs. The
very hotel was an old-
t i m e planter's man-
sion, and from it, after
registering, a voyage
of discovery was in
order, a trip that prom-
ised much and de-
lighted the eye, and
although a subsequent
and closer inspection
failed to unearth much
in the way of architec-
tural and decorative
detail, yet as a group
of old-time houses and
picturesque streets
there was sufficient to
make the old town
well worthy of the
visit.
Beaufort was the
summer home of the
planters, who came in
May and left about
November isth for
their plantations. The
houses were built ac-
cordingly with an eye
to air and space, with cool verandas overlooking the water,
or bay, which here surrounds three-quarters of the town.
Here families well known to each other intermingled year by
year and gave themselves over to boating, bathing and
fishing, and a good time gen-
erally, through the summer
months. As a rule, these sum-
mer houses were not built as
solidly or with such complete
accommodations as the planta-
tion mansions, and here notice-
ably absent are the extensive
slave or servant quarters, so
that it is evident that only a
limited number of domestics
was brought down with the
family and resided in the house.
The details of cornices and
mantels, and the wooden finish
generally, have a family like-
ness, and are peculiar to the
locality. The old Baptist parsonage and the old Elliott
house are particularly so, as also the old Franz house, from
the upper veranda of which La Fayette addressed the people
of the town below in the street. In the Fuller house, on
Bay Street, of which the double portico is given in a sketch,
The South Doorway: St. Helena's, Beaufort, S. C,
An Old Brick Tomb, Beaufort, S. C,
we have tabby built walls, very solid, and to which the slen-
der portico carried up through the two stories gives relief
from the severity of outline. 'i"he staircase is interesting
in its double return flight from the first central landing.
This house is a type,
with its portico, of sev-
eral others in the town.
There are also some
creditable mantels,
and the cornices are
good J but in these
houses, as in all the
South, amplitude
seems everywhere to
have had prime con-
sideration.
In one of the gar-
dens I noticed a very
medley of strange-
shaped beds, star,
oval, round, octagonal
and crescent, each
edged with a border
of rounded stones, af-
ter the manner of the
garden of the Bull-
Pringle house in
Charleston, with wind-
ing walks between and
a little pool and foun-
tain. But what is ob-
servable in the South-
ern gardens is the lack
of moisture, and such
lawns as one sees in
i the North are not to
be found. The grass
is stubby, strong and
thick bladed, and it is
in the shrubbery and
vines that the gardens excel, and produce such languorous
beauty.
A beautiful section of the town is what is called " the
point," surrounded by water, and here the old houses, with
their accompaniments of great
oaks with their long wandering
branches and dark foliage, af-
ford some marvellous silhou-
ettes of an evening. Indeed,
Beaufort should be an artist's ,
paradise, so full is it of the pic-
turesque, mixed with a bewitch-
ing suggestion of antiquity.
Of the two old churches, St.
Helena's is the Episcopal, of
which the townspeople are
justly proud. Standing in a
great churchyard, with en-
trances on three sides, full of
old tombs and family burial-
plots, walled in with low brick
walls, and interspersed with magnificent trees, it is the central
attraction to visitors, and, contrary to the general sentiment,
there are many of the townspeople who delight just to walk
there, so beautiful and quiescent are the winding paths amid
so many flowering and odorous shrubs. While the interior
5i.,i*«j5'^'
BEAUFORT, S. C, AN ISLAND CAPITAL.
77
has been modernized, the exterior is unchanged, and re-
tains all its original features, with the exception of the bell-
tower, which has, I believe, been burned once or twice, and
reconstructed without be-
ing properly finished. In
the churchyard is an old
brick tomb, and the story
goes that the tenant be-
fore his demise was so
fearful of being buried
alive, and of suffocation,
that after building his
burial vault he made a
stipulation that when he
was laid away there should
be placed beside his cof-
fin, whose lid was to be
left unscrewed, a jug of
water and a loaf of bread ;
and this was done, and
food and drink were kept
there until such time as
any possible reawakening
was out of the question.
These old burial vaults
are peculiar in their form,
as will be seen from the
sketches of the one in
question and also of one
in the Colonial cemetery
in Savannah'. They are
literally houses (gabled
houses) of the dead, and
their roofs of brick often
sag inwards from their
weight. With vines creep-
ing over them they are of-
ten quite pretty. The old
Baptist church, nearly co-
eval with its neighbor, St. Helena's, is interesting in its way,
but of an ordinary type.
'See tut in I'art XII.
LaiKJing
■t^
Stair-landing in the Beardsley House, Beaufort, S. C.
After a week in Beaufort I was lotli to leave. There one is
conscious of the very antithesis of the modern spirit of rush,
and crowding, and haste. In times of business pressure and
overburdening cares, it is
positively soothing to let
one's thoughts travel to
and stay in such a place
as Beaufort. But, alas !
this will not last long, for
already there is a big
modern hotel contracted
for under a Boston archi-
tect, and the old homes
are being sought after
and bought, and being
changed to suit modern
ideas and tastes.
Thus the entering
wedge of modern and so-
called advanced civiliza-
tion is forcing its way in ;
but it will take a long time
to modernize sleepy old
Beaufort, though not so
long to depreciate its pres-
ent quiet picturesqueness.
There is an old hostel-
ry now, once an old plant-
er's house, that thorough-
ly expresses the spirit of
the place. Mine host is
a character, and a most
genial and kindly one.
Everything that can be
done to make the guest
happy is done, and in the
"Sea Island Hotel" will
be found a true home for
the wayfarer, better than
any gorgeous modern hotel can supply, for the reason that
in it you are made one of the family.
E. Eldon Deane.
;i^^
St. Michael's and St. Philip's, Charleston, S. C.
!•' Proclamation
money, which is also
ST. MICHAEL'S, the second home of the Church of
England in Charleston, was erected on the site of the
first St. Philip's, which, for the second time, outgrew
itself by 1751. This necessitated the founding of
a new parish, to which end an act was passed, in part, as fol-
lows: '-That all
that part of Charles-
ton, situated and
lying to the south-
ward of the middle
of Broad Street . . .
be known by the
name of the Parish
of St. Michael's,"
and that a church
be erected " on or
near the spot
where the old
church of St. Phil-
ip's, Charleston,
formerly stood," at
a cost to the public
of not more than
17,000 pounds,
proclamation
money.^
The church
erected under this
act still stands, an
enduring monu-
ment to the archi-
tectural ideas and
taste of old Charles-
frequently mentioned
in our Acts of Assem-
bly, acquired that
denomination from a
proclamation of
Queen Ann in the
sixth year of her
reign, about the year
1 708 : the object of
which was to estab-
lish a common meas-
ure of value for the
paper currencies of '
llie Colonies. . . . The standard fixed by the proclamation, was,
one hundred and thirty-tlirce pounds, six shillings and eight pence
(133. 6. 8.) paper currency, for one hundred pounds sterling. The
dollar jiassed at six shillings and tliree pence." — lirevard''s ^^ Al-
pliabetical Dii^cst of tlie Piihlic Lai^is of South Carolina.^''
"... the confusion arising from the different values of British
sterling and provincial pa|)er money, liecame general throughout
the Colonies. In some a dollar passed for six shillings, in otliers for
seven and sixpence, in North Carolina and New York for eight
shillings, in South Carolina for one ])Ound twelve shillings and six-
])ence. In the latter, tlie comparative value of sterling coin and
St. Michael's Churcli, Cliarkston, S. C.
ton, and is famous not only for its historic associations, but
also for its antique chime of bells.^ It was opened for Divine
service on February i, 1761, six years earlier than Christ
Church, Alexandria, Va., where Washington worshipped.
The corner-stone of St. Michael's was laid February 17,
1752, by Governor
Glenn, and con-
cerning this cere-
mony the Charles-
ton Gazette of Feb-
ruary 2 2 of that year
speaks as f ol 1 o ws : —
"The Commis-
sioners for the
building of the
Church of St.
Michael's of this
town, having
waited on His Ex-
cellency, the Gov-
ernor, to desire that
he would please lay
the first stone, on
Monday last, His
Excellency, at-
tended by several of
His Majesty's
Honorable Coun-^
cil, with the Com-
missioners, and
other gentlemen,
was pleased to pro-
ceed to the spot
and lay the same,
and accordingly,
and therefor a sum
paper money di-
verged so far from
each other that after
passing through all
the intermediate
grades of deprecia-
tion, it was finally
fixed at seven pounds
of the paper money
for one pound ster-
ling."— Dr. Ramsay.
" History of South
Carolina" Vol. I,
/. 163.
' At the evacuation
of Charleston, 1782, Major Traille, of the Royal Artillery, took
down the bells of St. Michael's Church under the pretence that
they were a military perquisite belonging to the commanding
officer of artillery. The Vestry sought in vain to have them re-
turned. They finally appealed to Sir Guy Carleton at New York,
April 28, 1783. He issued an immediate order for their return to-
gether with all other public or private property of the inhabitants
that mav have been brought away. The bells, however, had been
shipped' from Charleston to London, where they were sold. The
Vestry applied to the Minister of War of Great Britain, but in vain.
The bells were finally purchased by a private individual, who re-
turned them to Charleston as a gift, November, 1783.
78
ST. MICHAECS AND ST. PHILIFS, CHARLESTON, S. C.
79
of money a stone was then laid by each of the gentlemen who
attended His Excellency, followed by a loud acclamation of a
numerous concourse of people that had assembled to see the
ceremony; after which the company proceeded to Mr. Gor-
don's, where a handsome entertainment was provided by the
Commissioners."
The bill for this "handsome entertainment" is still pre-
served in the archives of the church and reads as follows : —
Feb. 17, 1761. The Commissioners of the Church Bill.
To Dinner ^20
To Toddy 5, 10, o
To Punch 5, 0,0
To Beer 5, i o, o
To Wine 5, 5,0
To Glass broak 5,0
To 8 magnum bonums of claret 24, 0,0
TesTTor
To this in a different hand is added "The Commissioners
agree that the clerk pay this account." There is, however, no
mention of this
in the Gazette's
account of the
ceremony, which
continues as fol-
lows : —
" Dinner over.
His Majesty's
health was drunk,
followed by a dis-
charge of the can-
non at Granville's
Bastion; then the
health of the
royal family and
other loyal toasts,
and the day was
concluded with
peculiar pleasure
and satisfaction.
The church will
be built on the
plan of one of Mr.
Gibson's designs,
and it is thought
will exhibit a fine
piece of architec-
ture when com-
pleted,the steeple
being designed
much higher than
that of St. Philip's
[the second St.
Philip's] will
have a fine set of
bells."
Although in
this extract no
mention is made
of the location
of the corner-
stone, it is stated
in an old memo-
randum-book be-
longing to the
church that "on this day the Governor laid the first stone on
the southeast corner of the church." Following this informa-
tion a search was made for the corner-stone at the time when
extensive repairs, made necessary by the earthquake, were
under way, but without success. An interesting discovery
was made, however, to the effect that the steeple was built
on a foundation entirely separate from that on which the
body of the church rested.
Sidewalli passing under St. Michael's I'urch.
St. Michael's has been very generally considered the work
of an architect by the name of Gibson, said to be a pupil of
Sir Christopher Wren's, but a clever writer on the subject in
the "Charleston Year Book" of 1886 seeks to prove other-
wise. He says : " The name of the architect is given as
Gibson, a name of which we can find no mention elsewhere ;
but James Gibbs was the designer of St. Martin's-in-the-
Fields, London ; and a legend tells us that our church is a
copy of that building. A glance at the pictures of the two
shows this to be an error, and one is puzzled to account for
the story. If, however, they were planned by the same per-
son, we can see how the error arose. Add to this the simi-
larity of Gibbs and Gibson, and the fact that the spires of
both churches spring through the roof; and the further fact
that Gibbs lived until 1754, and we think there is little
doubt that St. Michael's was the work of Gibbs. This, how-
ever, is as each man pleases."
Exactly who
built St. Michael's
may never be
known. The old
church stands un-
changed by time,
with the golden
ball of its spire *
to be seen from
the fishing-boats
far out at sea ;
with its quiet
graves about it,
enclosed by a
higli brick wall, to
which the people
pass through two
great iron gates
said to be the
work of A. lusti,
who at one time
lived in Charles-
ton, and together
with Deidrick
Werner, a Ger-
man, is responsi-
ble for much that
is most artistic in
the wrought iron-
work of the city.
Service is held in
St. Michael's reg-
ularly; and in the
quaint old pews,
to w h i c h the
floors have been
raised to render
thein less box-like
than formerly, sit
the descendants
of those who com-
posed its original congregation. Generations, young and
old, have passed beneath its portals, and its sweet chimes
have carried, and still carry, balm and comfort to thousands
of hearts.
1 Tills gilt ball at the top of the steeple is of black cyi^ress cov-
ered witlicopper, and was not hurt when it fell to the ground dur-
ing a cyclone in 1SS5, altliouiih it made a si)hcrical depression in
the flagstones of the pavement.
8o
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Mr. Dalcho gives the following description of St. Michael's
in his " Church History'" published in 1819 : —
" It is of brick and is rough-cast. The extreme length
of the building is 130 feet, and it is 60 feet wide. The nave
is 74 feet wide, the chancel, 10, the ves-
tibule inside, 22, and the portico, 16. It
contains ninety-three pews on the ground
floor, the middle aisle across the church
having lately been built up with eight new
pews, and forty-five in the gallery. The chan-
cel is handsome, and is ornamented in
the most appropriate manner. It is a pan-
elled wainscot, with four Corinthian pi-
lasters supporting the proper cornice. The
usual tables of the Decalogue, Apostles'
Creed and Lord's Prayer are placed be-
tween them. The galleries are supported
by twelve Ionic pillars. The reading-desk
and pulpit stand at the east end of the
church. Near the middle door stands a
handsome marble font of an oval form.
The ceiling is flat, ornamented with a rich
cornice, which runs nearly parallel with
the front of the galleries. A large, hand-
some brass chandelier suspends from the
middle of the centre. The outside of
the church is adorned with Doric pilasters
continued round the building, and a para-
pet-wall extends around the north and
south side of the house. Between the
pilasters is a double row of arched win-
dows on the west and east side, the
upper less in height than the lower. The
steeple is 168 feet high, and is acknowl-
edged the handsomest in America, and
probably is not ex'ceeded by any in Lon-
don for the lightness of its architecture
and the chasteness of its ornamentation.
It is composed of a tower and spire.
The tower is square from the ground
and rises to a considerable height. The
principal decoration of the lower part is
a beautiful portico, with four Doric col-
umns supporting an angular pediment, with modillion cor-
nice. Over this rise two rustic courses; in the lower are
small round sashed windows on the north and south sides.
font
• StMichaete
Church
and in the second course are small square windows on
each side. From this course the steeple rises octagonal,
having windows with Venetian blinds on each face, with
Ionic pilasters supporting arches whose cornice upholds
a balustrade. Within this course is the belfry, in which
is a ring of eight bells. The next course
is likewise octagonal, but somewhat smaller
than the lower, rising from within the
balustrade. It has lofty sashed windows
alternately on each face, with pilasters and
a cornice. Here is the clock with dial-
plate on the cardinal side. Upon this
course rises, on a smaller octagonal base,
a range of Corinthian pillars with a balus-
trade connecting them ; the centres of the
arches being ornamented with sculptured
heads in relief. From hence is a beau-
tiful and extensive prospect over town
and harbor, and neighboring country and
ocean. The body of the steeple is car-
ried up octagonal within the pillars, on
whose entablature a fluted spire rises.
This is terminated by a globe 3 feet 6 1-2
inches in diameter, supporting a vane 7
feet 6 inches long. The height of the
steeple makes it the principal landmark
for pilots.
" The building is said to have cost
^32,77S-87- This sum is apparently small,
but we must take into consideration that
everything since that time has advanced
double or treble in price. Bricks were
then bought for $3 per thousand, now
[1819] they are $15. Lime was then six
cents, now it is twenty cents per bushel,
and everything else in proportion."
The bells ' and clock were not imported
until 1764. The bells cost in England
;^584 14 shillings, and the clock, which
runs 30 hours, cost ^194. The organ
was imported in 1768, and cost ^528.
It was built by Mr. Schnetzler, and was
greatly admired in London for its elegance of construction
and brilliancy of tone.
•«-«-
St. Philip's Church has been called the Westminster
Abbey of South Carolina because of the distinguished dead
1" During the late Civil War the citizens of Cliarleston were de-
sirous of protecting the bells from danj^er, and, as the steeple of
St. Michael's was made the target for the cannon of tlie besiegers,
the bells were taken down and sent to Columbia for safe keeping.
When Sheridan's Army took Columbia the shed in the yard of the
State-House, in which the bells had been placed, and which also
contained the marljle friezes and other sculptures intended for the
decoration of the Capitol, were broken in and the sculptures and
bells were smashed into fragments, and tlie sheds were then set on
fire. At the conclusion of the war tlie pieces of the bells were
carefully gathered together, boxed, and shipped to the commercial
house of Frazier, Trenholm & Co., of Liverpool, together with ex-
tracts from the records of St. Michael's, showing where the bells
were cast, and the proportions of the metals forming their compo-
nent parts. Upon inquiry, it was found tliat there was still in ex-
istence in England the firm of bell-founders, unchanged in name,
and consisting of the descendants of the proprietors at the time
the bells were made. 'Hie records of this firm contained descrip-
tions of the bells, and tlie proiiortions there given were found to
correspond with those furnished from Charleston. The bells were
made anew, therefore, of the same metal, and for the fifth time
they were carried across the Atlantic, and arrived safely at Charles-
ton. Their return was made the occasion of great rejoicing in the
city." — • \Vasliiii_i;ton Post.
who lie about it." The first edifice called by the name of
St. Philip's was built on the site where St. Michael's now
2 Perliaps no other churchyard in America contains the remains
of so many men who have been illustrious in the historj- of the
Church and the State, among whom may be mentioned Robert
Daniel, a Landgrave (the only American title ever conferred by
Great Britain) and a Governor of South Carolina, who was buried
near the rising walls in 1718. Near him is John Logan, Speaker
of the Commons; not far away is William Rhett, hero in the de-
fence against the invasion of the French and Spanish in i 706, and
of the expedition later against the pirates. Thomas Hepworth,
Chief-Justice, was liuried therein 1728. "Good" Governor Robert
Johnson — Governor both under the Proprietary and Royal Gov-
ernments— was interred near the chancel in the churchyard.
Four Chief-Justices are laid here, of whom two were Peter Leigh
and Charles Pinckney. Among the heroes of the Revolution who
lie around the church are Christopher Gadsden and his right-hand
man William Johnson. Rawlans Loundes, who was Governor in
1778, requested that the epitaph upon his tombstone should be
" The opponent of the adoption of the Constitution of the United
States." Edward Rutledge, signer of the Declaration of Inde-
pendence, Col. Isa.ac Motte, second in command at the Battle of
Fort Moultrie, also lie in .St. Philip's churchyard. Thomas Pinck-
ney, Major in the Continental Army, Major-General in the War of
181 2, Minister to ICngland and Spain, and Governor of the State,
is also sleeping there. So is Rebecca Motte, the celebrated
ST. MICHAEUS AND ST. PHILIP'S, CHARLESTON, S. C.
8r
stands in 1681-2.' It was the first Church of England in
South Carohna, and contemporary with " Old Ship " Church,
Hingham, Mass., and a few years later than Christ
Church, Williamsburg, Va., which was built in 1678.
Unfortunately little is known concerning this early struct-
ure, beyond the fact that it was of black cypress, on a brick
foundation, and that it was described in a letter of the
period as "large and stately, surrounded by a neat white
palisade fence." By 1723 the congregation had quite out-
grown this simple church — "large and spacious" though it
may have been — and was removed to the present site of St.
Philip's on Church street, where a superb brick edifice was
erected under an ordinance passed as early as 1710.
This second St. Philip's, which was opened for divine ser-
vice on Easter Sunday, 1723, is the one of which Charlestoni-
ans of to-day still talk with affection and pride, and the history
of which is closely identified with the pre-Revolutionary devel-
opment of the State. The second St. Philip's was burned in
1835, the shingled roof of the tower having caught fire from
the sparks of a neighboring conflagration. This particular
bit of roofing was the vulnerable spot of the church, and
caught fire once before in a similar manner from sparks from
the Huguenot church on the next corner, and would have
been destroyed then but for the resolute behavior of a negro
slave who, seeing the danger, climbed up the spire and out
on the roof, from which he ripped the burning shingles : for
this heroic deed he received his freedom.''
The Charleston Courier oi Feb. 16, 1835, has the follow-
ing account of the burning of St. Philip's : —
"The most striking feature of this calamity is the destruc-
tion of St. Philip's Church, commonly known as the " Old
Church." The venerable structure, which has for more than
a century (having been built in 1723) towered among us in
all the solemnity and noble proportions of antique architec-
ture, constituting a hallowed link between the past and the
present, with its monumental memorials of the beloved and
honored dead, and its splendid new organ (which cost $4,500)
is now a smoking ruin. Although widely separated from the
burning houses by the burial ground, the upper part of the
steeple, the only portion of it externally composed of wood,
took fire from the sparks which fell upon it in great quanti-
ties. It is much to be regretted that preventive measures
had not been taken in season to save the noble and conse-
crated edifice. The flames, slowly descending, wreathed the
steeple, constituting a magnificent spectacle, and forming lit-
erally a pillar of fire, finally enwrapping the whole body of
the church in its enlarged volume. The burning of the body
of the church was the closing scene of the catastrophy. In
1796 it was preserved by a negro man who ascended it, and
was rewarded with his freedom for his perilous exertions ;
and again in 1810 it narrowly escaped the destructive fires of
that year which commenced in the house adjoining the
churchyard to the north.
" We have been informed that the only monument of the
interior of the church which was not destroyed is one that,
with accidental appropriateness, bears the figure of Grief."
Revolutionary heroine, and many other notables of the same period.
John C. Calhoun, the groat nullificr, sleeps within the shadow of
the old church, and near him are the remains of three other leaders
in the great struggle of which he was the leader.
Kdward McCrady, speaking on this subject, says: "Of the
dignitaries of the Church in the line of the Kpiscopate there lie
around her [St. Philip's] hallowed walls, two Commissaries of the
Bishop of London, three Bisliops of the American Church, and
seven ministers who have served at her altar. Of chief magis-
trates, two Colonial and three State Governors are buried within
her sacred precincts. Six Colonial Chief Justices worshipiied in her
sanctuary. Two Presidents of the Continental Congress and two
signers of the Declaration of Independence were reared in the
Church, one of the signers resting near her walls. Ambassadors
and Ministers have gone from her to foreign lands, and members
of Congress have been again and again clioseu from her mem-
Old St. Philip's, as the second church of the name is
sometimes called to this day, was a more imposing structure
than the one which bears the name to-day, and would have
been, had it been spared, a notable example of the Colonial
churches of America. Dr. Dalcho, in his oft-quoted " Church
History of South Carolina," gives the following verbose de-
scription of it : —
" St. Philip's Church stands on the east side of Church
Street, a few poles north of Queen Street. It is built of
brick and rough-cast. The nave is 74 feet long; the vesti-
bule, or, more properly, the belfry, 37 ; the portico 12 feet
and 22 1-2 feet wide. The church is 62 feel wide. Tlie roof
is arched, except over the galleries; two rows of Tuscan
pillars support five arches on each side, and the galleries.
Tlie pillars are ornamented on the inside with fluted Corin-
thian pilasters, whose capitals are as high as the cherubim,
in relief, over the centre of each arch, supporting their
proper cornice. Over the centre arch on the south side are
some figures in heraldic forin, representing the infant colony
imploring protection of the King. The church was nearly
finished when the King purchased the colony from the
Lords Proprietors. This circumstance probably suggested
the idea. Beneath the figures is this inscription : Fropius
res aspice nostras. This has been adopted as the motto of
the seal of St. Philip's Church. Over the middle arch on the
north side is this inscription : Deus mihi sol, with armo-
rial bearings, or the representation of some stately edifice.
" Each pillar is now ornainented with a piece of monu-
mental sculpture, soine of them with bas-relief figures finely
executed by some of the first artists in England. These add
greatly to the solemnity and beauty of the edifice. There is
no chancel ; the communion-table stands within the body of
the church. The east end is a panelled wainscot ornamented
with Corinthian pilasters, supporting the cornice of a fan-
light. Between the pilasters are the usual tables of the
Decalogue, the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed. The
organ was imported from England, and had been used at
the coronation of George II. The galleries were added sub-
sequently to the building of the church. There are 88
pews on the ground floor and 60 in the galleries. Several
of the pews were built by individuals at different times with
the consent of the vestry. . . . The front of the church is
adorned with a portico composed of four Tuscan columns
supporting a double pediment. The two side-doors which
open into the belfry are ornamented with round columns of
the same order, which support angular pediments that project
12 feet ; these give to the whole building the form of a cross,
and add greatly to its beauty. This, however, is greatly ob-
scured by the intervention of the wall of the graveyard.
Pilasters of the same order with the columns are continued
around the body of the church, and a parapet extends around
the roof. Between each of the pillars is one lofty slashed
window. Over the double pediment was originally a gallery
with banisters which has since been removed as a security
against fire. From this the steeple rises octagonal ; in the
first course are circular slashed windows on the cardinal
side; and windows with Venetian blinds in each face of the
second course, ornamented with Ionic pilasters, whose entab-
lature supports a gallery. Within this course are two bells.
An octagonal tower rises from within the gallery, having
slashed windows on every oiher face and dial-plates of the
bers. Soldiers of all the wars in which .Soutli Carolina, Prov-
ince and .State, has engaged lie within her gates. And there are
also to be found tlie graves of men of science. It is believed that
she has never been without a representation in the Senate or
House of Representatives of the State Legislature. All the young
men of the church went into the service of the Confederate States
during the late war. And in the vestibule there is a memorial to
those who gave their lives to their country."
' This date is given by Dr. Dalcho in his " CJuircli History^
Edward McCradv, tlie eminent historian, tliinks the date incor-
rectly given, though his researches cause him to believe that it
was erected prior to 1 690.
' This deed is celebrated in a poem called " The Slave who
saved St. Arichael's," the author having credited the heroic deed
to the wrong church.
83
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
clock on the cardinal side. Above is a dome upon which
stands a quadrangular lantern. A vane in the form of a
clock terminates the whole. Its height is probably 80 feet.
" St. Philip's Church has always been greatly admired.
Its heavv structure, lofty arches and massive pillars, adorned
with elegant sepulchral monuments, cast over the mind a
feeling of solemnitv highly favorable to religious impressions.
same foundation. For awhile the congregation would enter-
tain no thought but to reproduce, as far as possible, the edi-
fice they had lost, but within a year other counsel prevailed.
Both churches, however, contained interior features peculiar
to the Georgian period of church architecture, viz, galleries
for congregation and choir, and a high pulpit adapted to
r
St. Pl\ili|i's Church, Charleston, S. C. [1835-9.]
The celebrated Edmund Burke, speaking of the church, said :
'It is spacious, and executed in very handsome taste, ex-
ceeding everything of that kind which we have in America,'
and the biographer of Whitefield calls it a grand church,
resembling one of the new churches of England in London."
No sooner was the second St. Philip's burned than a third
was planned, the architect being Mr. J. Hyde, and its corner-
stone was laid Nov. 12, 1835. It was built of brick, on the
them. Rev. John Johnson, D. D., who for the past thirty
years has been rector of St. Philip's, gives the following de-
scription of the church as it stands to-day amid its countless
graves.
" In regard to its external appearance the new St. Philip's
differs not greatly from the old building. The same order
of architecture was retained within, but with modifications
that were improvements. Thus the massive square piers that
THE DE SAUSSURE HOMESTEAD, NEAR CAMDEN, S. C.
83
supported the old church, that gave it some grandeur,
and, faced with fluted pilasters bearing fine scriptural memo-
rial tablets, some grace also, were not repeated because they
darkened the interior, and interfered seriously with vision
and hearing. The Doric order of the later (Roman) period
gave rule, measure and proportion to the exterior of the new
church, so that the columns, pilasters, and entablatures with-
out the building represent very correctly, in all but the orna-
ments of capital and frieze, the order they illustrate. The
interior of the sacred edifice is finished in the Corinthian
order of architecture, and is the only specimen in the city
of that order, with all the rich ornaments of the later, or
Roman, period. These are executed, for the most part, in
stucco, but the capitals of the columns are of carved wood.
The roof and galleries are supported by eight fluted columns,
four on each side, rising from pedestals of the same level as
tlie rails of the pews to the height of twenty feet above the
floors. There these columns, finished with their appropriate
capitals, meet the line of the entablature, not extended in
f.he usual way from column to column, but circumscribed
above each column, so as to produce, with the overhanging
cornice, the effect of a higher and larger capital, which, of
course, it is not. This departure from the conventional de-
sign is something almost in the way of a/cw d'esprit. But it
has its reason in the precedent of one of the finest churches
in London by James Gibbs, architect, in 1721, and the ex-
press wish of the Charleston congregation to secure thereby
the light and airy affect of the English prototype.
" At a meeting of the congregation of St. Philip's, June 27,
1836, it was resolved, 'that the heavy pillars of the interior
of the church be dispensed with, and that in lieu thereof
Corinthian columns, as far as possible after the style of St.
Martin's-in-the-Fields, London, be adopted.' And again
resolved, 'that the pillars of the plan presented be lowered,
so as to reduce the arches.' These arches were the motives
of the whole scheme. Springing longitudinally from the
square of cornice above each column at an altitude of about
twenty-five feet and rising at their crown to a level of thirty-
six feet above the floor, these fine arches on each side sup-
port the roof, and contribute no little to the beauty of the
interior, lifting the eye above the columns and galleries to
the topmost ceiling of the church, forty-two or forty-three feet
above the floor. The crown of each arch is ornamented
with a cherub's head and wings in stucco, while in the spaces
of the spandrels between the shoulders of the arches the
same material is used for the display of the acanthus orna-
mentation. The unbroken entablature is seen in the chancel
where it passes from one pilaster to another, but is again
broken by the head of the high stained-glass window. Above
the cornice of the chancel the coved ceiling is ribbed and
adorned with rosettes in stucco. On either side of the chan-
cel the walls are enriched by tablets inscribed as usual."
Dr. Johnson gives the dimensions of the building in feet as
follows : —
Extreme length of building, including porch 120
Extreme width of building, exclusive of south and north porches.. . 62
Projection of porches ,2
Height of walls on side j-
Height of ridge of roof ^'
Height of steeple 200
INTERIOR DIMENSIONS.
Extreme length of church i j^
Depth of chancel g
Width of chancel 24
Extreme width of church c6
Height of galleries (upper rail) 1.^
Extreme height of ceiling 42
Width of vestibule 20
The cost of the new St. Philip's, as reported to the congre-
gagation on the 15th of July, 1839, was $84,206.01. Later,
however, a steeple and spire, surmounted by a plain gold
cross, were added, after a design by Edward B. White, which
must have raised the total cost to nearly §100,000. When
the steeple was completed, early in the fifties, a clock with a
chime of bells was presented to it by Mr. Colin Campbell, of
Beaufort. These were taken down at the beginning of the
war and presented to the Confederate Government to be
cast into cannon.
During the war the steeples of St. Michael's and St. Phil-
ip's, being the most conspicuous objects in the city, served
as targets for the Federal guns. Of the two thus subjected
to fire St. Philip's suffered most, as ten or more shells en-
tered her walls. The chancel was destroyed, the organ
demolished, and the roof pierced in several places. The
congregation continued to worship in the church, however,
until Thanksgiving Day, 1863, and returned to it again as
soon as the war was over. C. R. S. Horton.
The De Saussure Homestead, near Camden, S. C.
ANOTHER South Carolina mansion that deserves
record is " Lausanne," the De Saussure homestead,
just outside of Camden. Although this place was
sold some years ago, and alterations made in it
with the view of entertaining Northern tourists, its original
character was too strong to be obliterated. And its antiquity
and first existence as a private home designed to fill the
wants of a hospitable, large-minded owner is stamped from
garret to cellar. Camden is one of the oldest communities
in the country, and Lausanne was built for the De Saussure
whom Washington appointed Director of the Mint, and under
whose jurisdiction the first gold coins used in the United
States were minted. He afterward became Chancellor.
Lausanne was for a long period the show-place of Camden
and the chosen home where the distinguished people who
visited the town on the Wateree were sure to find entertain-
ment. The place was celebrated for its beautiful grounds,
many imported shrubs and trees being planted there, the
site being one of exceptional advantage for the growth of
roses and native flowers.
Lafayette was entertained at this homestead when he
visited Camden in 1825 in order to take part in the unveiling
of the monument to De Kalb, the illustrious German in the
service of France who so generously aided the Americans'
cause, and was the hero of the Camden fight.
When the proprietor of Lausanne, in 1795, resigned from
the directorship of the Mint, and returned to Carolina to
practise law, he persuaded Washington, his personal friend,
to sit to Rembrandt Peale for a portrait to be hung on the
walls at the Camden house. This portrait, an extraordina-
rily good likeness, for Washington sat patiently to please his
friend, was painted, and adorned the morning-room at
84
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Lausanne many years. Tlie likeness was so perfect, it is said,
that Lafayette, wlien he first beiield it, saluted and exclaimed
in French, "My friend, God guard you."
Lausanne received much attention at the hands of free-
booters and raiders of both armies towards the close of the
Civil War: this because of the reputed wealth of the own-
ers, and the belief that much plate and treasure was buried
on the premises. A number of good pictures hung upon the
walls, many of them authenticated portraits of the members
of the De Saussure family, painted by noted artists. The
careless soldiers, when Lausanne was being sacked, amused
themselves by sticking their bayonets through these portraits
and other pictures. A soldier who was idly lunging at every-
thing on his side of the house, and had let the daylight
through two or three framed pictures, suddenly felt his arm
arrested by a comrade, and was warned to notice whom he
was about to slash next. Even this vandal had compunc-
tions about damaging the " Father of his Country," and the
portrait was left unhurt.
Eleven years after the war the descendants of the Chan-
cellor who had made Lausanne their home for over eighty
years were in sore straits. The cherished acres and associa-
tions alike had to be given up. The Washington portrait
was shipped to a collector in Philadelphia and sold, and the
beautiful home-place was bought by a lady with an eye to
the good business it would bring as an inn, because of the
very historical and antique flavor that hangs about it and its
belonjrinETs. Olive F. Gitnbv.
On thB'f^'ofnf "'^\-^
The Matter of Imported Material.
ACORRESrONDENT takes exception to a state-
ment made by Mr. Bibb, in an earlier paper, to the
effect, first, that '• Westover " manor-house ' was
built of English imported brick and, second, that
the warm "glow" of the brickwork was due to the natural
coloration of the English baked clay. This glow, our cor-
respondent tells us, is really due to the red paint that was at
some remote time applied to tiie brickwork, and as to the
source of the brickwork itself that, while it is probable that
the moulded brick used in belt-course and water-table may
have been imported, there is evidence of various kinds that
the bricks were made by native labor on the spot.
Nothing is more common tiian to find attached to many a
building in the South the legend that it was built of brick
imported from England, and just as the presence of much
smoke is an indication of fire, so we incline to the belief that,
in most cases, the tradition is worthy of credence. Proba-
bly, in the absence of authentic written records, nothing but
a chemical analysis of the bricks themselves and the neigh-
boring clay-beds can ever determine the truth. Unquestion-
ably, it was possible to make bricks, but brick-burning is not
so easy and natural a process that satisfactory bricks could al-
ways have been made in the immediate neighborhood of each
^ .See cut, page 41, Vol. 1 1.
of these isolated buildings. Granted that there were native
brickyards, it is reasonable to assume that they turned out
too small a product to meet the demands of a rapidly-increas-
ing population, and if bricks could not have been made in suf-
ficient quantity, it is inevitable that they must have been
imported, and imported by those who were either too im-
patient to wait for the native makers to supply them or so
well off in worldly gear that they could afford to pay for the
satisfaction of a whim or to secure a really better material
than the home-made article, hence, it is natural that the tra-
dition should attach mainly to the buildings of the well-to-do
planter. Furtiier, as the tradition does not even then attach
to every such building, it tends to prove that the statement is
true in many, perhaps in all, cases.
Brickyards were in active operation at Medford, Mass.,
only towards the end of the eighteenth century, and we fancy
that, even in the early days, the inhabitants of the Northern
Provinces were, as now, more active in commercial affairs
than were those in the hotter regions of the South ; and
though it is on record that St. John's Church, Hampton, Va.
(now undergoing alterations), was built, in 1728, of brick
made in the neighborhood, it does not follow that the
brickyard that supplied them was of large size or in regular
operation. Moreover, if the brick buildings at the South,
THE MATTER OF IMPORTED MATERIAL.
8$
St. Stephen's, Santee.
erected toward the middle and close of the eighteenth cen-
tury, were built of native brick, what likelihood is there that
St. Luke's,^ at Smithfield, Va., built in 1632, or the Jenkins
house ^ on Dahaw Creek, Edisto Island, S. C, which dates
from 1683, could have been built of anything but imported
material ?
So far as internal evidence goes, we have come upon noth-
ing which so lends credi-
bility to the alleged
date of the fabric of St.
Luke's as this building
on Edisto Island, in its
architectural perfection
the very highwater mark
of a vanished cultivated
and polite civilization.
Those of us of Eng-
lish blood insensibly
date the history of this
country either from
Captain Smith and his
settlement at James-
town, in 1607, or from
the landing of the Pil-
grims, in 1620, at Plymouth, taking it, seemingly, for granted
that between 1492 and those familiar dates nothing hap-
pened. But here on Edisto Island seems to be the evidence
that a good deal did happen, and that the dreams and aspira-
tions of Admiral Coligny, who, in 1561, obtained permission
from Charles IX to plant a colony on our southeastern sea-
board as a retreat for Protestant refugees, did amount to a
good deal, ultimately. Between the early expeditions of the
French, with their sanguinary struggles against the Spaniards,
and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes a century elapsed,
and, during that time, there was a tendency on the part of
the oppressed Huguenots to seek a more peaceful home in
New France, so that when a part of the main body of Hu-
guenots driven out by Madam de Maintenon reached South
Carolina they found friends and connections already estab-
lished there. A little earlier, the English had driven the
Dutch out of New York, and a certain number of these had
been given a free passage to South Carolina by the Lords
Proprietors, where, not long afterwards, they were joined by
a larger party from Belgium direct. The presence of the
Dutch in the neighborhood at the time the Jenkins house
on Edisto Island was built is a possible explanation for the
statement made to us that the house was built by Dutchmen ;
but if architectural character means anything, it is really the
work of French hands trained in the brick-and-stone con-
struction of the times. One can fancy some wealthy Hugue-
not noble trying to make himself feel as much at home as
possible by building for himself amid a strange and semi-
tropical vegetation a reminiscent fragment of the Louis-XIII
chdteau he had been forced to abandon to a Catholic suc-
cessor. That so ambitious a structure should have been
undertaken if the bricks were to be made upon the spot by
unskilled and cheap labor seems unlikely, while it was en-
tirely possible for a man who had brought away with him
money enough to pay the builders' bills, to pay, also, the
freight on the brick and dressed-stone prepared in the Mother
Country.
The date ascribed to this building does seem a very early
one for so good a piece of work, but the men who settled in
that part of the country were of a different type from the
' See cut, page 23, Vol. II.
•Plates I and 2, Part XI.
yeomanry who settled New England. Many of them were
heads of noble families, who, while naturally accompanied
by the members of their own family, brought, too, in their
train not only devoted house-servants, but an humbler follow-
ing of peasant tenantry, as desirous as they of escaping the
persecution of the Catholics, and as ready in the wilderness
as they were at home to enable the members of the family
to which they and theirs had for generations been devoted
to " live soft and lie easy." As these men of gentle blood
had supposably been familiar with the work of the artists
and architects of the times of the Louis, and as they brought
with them gold, or left behind them credit, it is not surprising
if their early houses in this country should be proved to have
had a more advanced architectural character than was to be
found elsewhere. Perhaps a closer examination of the older
settlements on the southeastern seaboard than they have yet
received may bring to light in places now little visited other
examples as interesting as this one on Edisto Island. That
there were, and still may be, such seems to be indicated by
the reference, in the account of the estates on the Ashley
and Cooper rivers, to "Yeamans Hall," built by Sir Thomas
Yeamans about 1680; that is, at just the time when the
Edisto Island house is credited with being built; and the de-
scription of " Yeamans Hall " seems to show it to have been
as well built and to have had fully as much architectural
character as the extant Edisto example.
There is another reason for giving adherence to the legends
concerning the importation of brick, whether as paid freight
or unpaid ballast. Many of the older brick buildings, par-
ticularly the smaller ones, are covered with rough-cast, and it
is a proper inference that if they had fair brick walls, well laid,
they would have been left uncoated, while it is equally fair to
suppose that a builder forced to use the crooked, ill-made
and poorly-burned native brick would have sought to give
his job as fair an aspect as possible by giving it a good coat-
ing of rough-cast, and we question whether legend ever de-
clares that a rough-cast building was built with bricks
"imported from England.'
It is seemingly unquestionable that, relatively, brick was
more freely used
as a building-nia-
terial in the
South than in
the North, and
the fact is ac-
counted for, not
more by the
presence of good
brick-clay on
every hand than
by the absence
of the kindly-
natured and
easily- w o rked
white-pine of the
colder climate.
One class of
building m the
South, the ec-
clesiastical,
seems, judging from remaining examples, to have been gen-
erally built of brick, occasionally of stone, and seldom of
wood; while for Northern churches the formula would read
" generally of wood, sometimes of brick, but rarely of stone."
As soon as we come into the neighborhood of the
i-n-lf'-
t'^^^l'^W^^'
St. John's, Hampton, Va. [172S.]
86
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
clay-lands of Maryland and Virginia, we find congregations
still sheltering in little brick structures of considerable an-
tiquity which, while generally having an air of quaintness and,
occasionally, a considerable architectural value, have more the
aspect of schoolhouses than
that of ecclesiastical build-
ings. We do not mean such
buildings as Christ Church,
Alexandria, Va., and St.
Peter's,* in Philadelphia, al-
though the former before the
addition of its present tower
was quite typical of its class —
a somewhat plain four-square
building of one size or another,
with hipped roof, while the cor-
nice and the finish of doors and
windows were given the con-
siderate attention that is char-
acteristic of the work of the
skilled Colonial builder. Po-
hick Church, near Alexandria,
Va., is of a rather later type,
less churchly, more scholastic.
Pohick Church is interesting because the records show
that this building at least, which dates 1769-73, was built of
brick burned on or near the spot ; but it is also further not-
able for the fact that the little building was designed by
Pohick Church, near Alexandria, Va. [i7'j9-73.]
Alexandria, a building in whose design and building he also
had a hand ; a statement very easy to believe since Christ
Church when first built, and before the addition of the tower,
had a distinct resemblance to the smaller building at Old
Pohick.
The best example, perhaps,
of a brick church of the period
is Old Wamboro Church,' St.
James's, on the Santee, for it
is a consistent piece of brick
masonry from end to end;
walls, floors, steps, bases,
shafts, capitals, all are of
brick, laid with such care and
skill as evidently to have re-
quired little attention and
repair, since the original
builder struck the last joint.
It was the chance coming into
our hands of a blue-print
from the negative of a wan-
dering kodak expert that de-
cided us to have this little
building properly put on rec-
ord, and though the very feature which we thought so unique
as to be worth a considerable expense to secure proof of its
existence proved to be non-existent — an optical illusion of
photographies — the result actually achieved is eminently
St. James's, Goose Creek, S. C. [i/ii.]
George Washington himself, who, as the owner of the near- worth while. Under the magnifying-glass the little kodak
by Mount Vernon estate, also worshipped in the building, print seemed to show that the builder had attempted to ex-
Later General Washington worshipped in Christ Church, press in brickwork his recollection of a Corinthian capital,
1 Plate 3, Part V.
*.See cut, page 65 and Plates 11 and 12, Part XI.
THE MATTER OF IMPORTED MATERIAL.
S7
the tips of a single row of acanthus leaves seeming to be re-
placed by slightly projecting headers radially laid. The pho-
tograph seemed to show a very successful, if somewhat archaic,
attempt. Unfortunately, it was a mere photographic illusion,
the caps actually turning out to be Tuscan caps laid up in
moulded brick. But had it not been for this misunderstand-
ing on our part, this interesting church might have had to
wait longer for its proper record.
Seemingly, there is an indefinite number of these little
brick churches scattered through the older townships of the
Southern States, most of them standing isolated so as to be
as convenient to the owner of one plantation as to his neigh-
bor away on the other side. Some are perfectly simple in
plan, like Cainhoy Church,' near Charleston ; others, like St.
Andrew's,' on the Ashley, and Strawberry Church,' on the
Cooper, have a more pronouncedly ecclesiastical air, thanks
to their transepts: some are of plain brickwork, while others
are coated with rough-cast ; some have the hipped roof,
others the gable-ended roof, either plain or pedimented. But
all, seemingly, have
the round-headed
window and the,
more or less, refined
wooden finish
proper to the period.
The peculiar snub-
bing of the gable-
roof is common to
Strawberry Church,'
Goose Creek
Church ^ and Pom-
pion Hill Chapel as
it is to many others.
Each of these lit-
tle buildings has its
history, real or leg-
endary, social, ec-
clesiastical or archi-
tectural, and in this
latter connection
one is pretty certain
of being told that
the standing-finish
and brick of which they were built were brought over from
England or Holland, as the case may be. More than one on
Sunday echoed to the voice of some clergyman of doubtful
sanctity whose voice for a while on Saturday evening was too
thick to allow of intelligible utterance. At these fonts has
been baptized many a babe who as man or woman has left a
name which one encounters in history or the transmitted leg-
ends of the neighborhood and recognizes again upon tomb or
gravestone in the deserted and weed-grown churchyard hard
by : tombs and stones so much more decent and suitable to
mark the spot where man leaves earth behind than those
which mar our pretentious cemeteries to-day — the humble
churchyard burying-ground being almost as much a thing of
the past as its bescutcheoned and cherub-decorated stones.
Most of these little church fabrics seem a natural growth
and at most to be but mildly reminiscent, but in Georgetown,
S. C, and at St. Stephen's,' Santee, we come upon types of a
wholly different character. To build a simple gable-ended
church, as old St. Peter's,* on the Isle of Wight, Va., and
later give it a fuller architectural expression by building
against one gable end a square bell-tower with open-arched
1 Plate 15, Part XI. 'Plate 6, Part III. i* Plate 15, I'art .\I.
'?Oinj»i«>n Ijill Chape].
"«'• Qarlejfoj..
[176^]
parte cochere below it, is to accomplish a perfectly natural
growth, and this accomplishment of an architectural effect
seems to have been intuitive rather than studied. But when
one turns to Prince George's Church,^ at Georgetown, one
perceives that an architect has been at work and has chosen
not so much to modify the prevailing type as to design his
building with entire disregard to it, or, perhaps, rather in
entire ignorance of it. Prince George's, Winyaw, seems to
us like a church designed in England and by an Englishman
who had not visited this country, but had prepared for ex-
port a design based on some English church of an earlier
period that he had recently encountered during some holi-
day tour at home. The Elizabethan treatment of the gable-
ends is unusual, the only other instance of a similar treatment
that we have come upon being that to be found in the St.
Stephen's Church, Santee, which gives evidence of having
been thoroughly worked out on paper by some one who knew
more about architecture and the historic styles than did most
of the men who built the little churches and chapels of the
time in this country.
Pompion (or
Pumpkin) Hill
Chapel, as it is
known to-day, on
the Cooper River,
just outside of
Charleston, is really
the Church of St.
Denis, and the
present building
dates from 1763, re-
placing an earlier
wooden structure
that was built in
1703. The interest
that attaches to this
little building — it
measures only 35' x
48' — is rather his-
torical than archi-
tectural, and as St.
Denis is a French
saint, the name at
once gives the student a clue to its early history.
"Orange Quarter" was settled by French Huguenots in
16S5 or thereabouts, and the first Church of St. Denis was
built in 1703, of wood, and of the size needed for the very
small French congregation. Naturally, exhortation here was
carried on in French, and when, a year or two later the
Province of South Carolina was divided into ten parishes —
the parochial division being later adopted in other of the
Southern States — it was found that the Orange Quarter
was included in the Parish of St. Thomas. If, as was only
natural, the inhabitants of each parish were taxed in some
way to support the church and clergyman therein established,
it doubtless looked to the French Huguenots as if by their
long voyage across the ocean they had not gained that liberty
of purse and act they were seeking, if they were in the new
country to be made the victims of the same sort of double
taxation that they had had to endure in France. If at home
they had to support their own pastor and also pay tithes and
so on to maintain the Catholic clergy, whose acts and tenets
they abominated, how were they any better off in America?
if, besides supporting their own pastor, they also had to join
Vm'"' "'
* .See cut, page 25, Part VI.
^ Plates 40, 41, Part X.
88
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
in paying the salary of the Church of England clergyman
who officiated at St. Thomas's ? Accordingly, they petitioned
the Assembly, representing that they were good and law-
abiding citizens, so few and so poor that they could not even
properly maintain their own church, and praying for relief
and assistance. The Assembly was both amiably and chari-
tably inclined and answered the prayer by incorporating the
Huguenot immigrants into a new parish within the Parish of
St. Thomas, and seated it at St. Denis ; but provided that, as
of the building is due to the fact that many streamlets of the
great German immigration filtered down into North Carolina
from Pennsylvania, and up from Orangeburg and other towns
in South Carolina, we do not know, but there was time enough
between the date of these migratory movements and the date
when the church was built, 1736-60, for the general senti-
ment of the community to be quite leavened with the same
Teutonic, or " Dutch," feeling that is so stamped on matters
and ideas in Pennsylvania. Be this as it may, the fact
soon as the present members of the community and their that more than a score of years were needed to finish this
descendants should have become proficient in the English
language, the separate existence of the Parish of St. Denis
should terminate
and the Church of
St. Denis should be-
come the chapel of
ease to the Parish
Church of St.
Thomas. Ainsi dit,
ainsi fait.
Huguenots, cava-
liers, Lords Proprie-
tors, Landgraves,
Caciques — words
constantly recurring
in the early history
of the Carolinas —
remind the student
that there is an his-
toric past to these
regions of a differ-
ent quality from that
belonging to any
other section of the
country, for the
heavy hand of Span-
ish intolerance in a
measure separates
from the history and
social habit of the
Carolinas the early
life and accomplish-
ment of the inhabi-
tants of Florida and Louisiana
been so obviously similar.
The genius of Romance may be supposed to have turned
back in his flight on reaching Mason and Dixon's line, his
inclination to farther flight checked by the chill of a near
approach to the rigid formalism of the Puritans : once, how-
ever, he may have reached as far North as New York and
did not feel absolutely strange amid the Dutch quaintness
then to be found at the southern end of the Hudson. As he
flitted back again to the more congenial climate and society —
for romance is the attribute of an aristocratic rather than of
a proletarian milieu — he must have noted when he drew
near Edenton, N. C, on Albemarle Sound, that the spire of
St. Paul's Church had a suggestive likeness to work he had
recently seen in New Amsterdam. How much the character
.St. P.iul's Churcli, Edenton, N. C.
which otherwise mijrht have
little structure lends verisimilitude to the prevailing legend
that this building too was built of imported materials.
Although the
"first white child,"
Virginia Dare, was
born in 1587 on
Roanoke Island, at
the mouth of the
Sound, the first per-
manent settlement
in North Carolina
was made near Ed-
enton in 1653 by a
small band of one
hundred settlers,
and in the next fifty
years a town of some
importance had
grown up there,
known at different
times by different
names and only
known as Edenton
on the death of
Governor Eden, in
1722, a gentleman
who was falsely
accused of having
improper dealings
with Edward Teach,
the pirate known as
" Blackbeard."
North Carolinians
were convinced secessionists, and when General Beauregard
made it known that he must have more cannon the bells of
St. Paul's Church at Edenton were taken down from their
loft and converted into cannon, which were served by the
Edenton Bell Battery, one of the guns being specifically
christened " St. Paul."
Just outside of Edenton is "Hayes," built in 1801, the
home of the Johnston and Iredell families, a mansion of size,
and said to be of some architectural significance. Unfortu-
nately the photograph we have secured shows the building —
a wooden, clapboarded, wing-pavilion house surmounted by a
cupola — so enshrouded with trees and shrubs that it is not
possible to make sure that it has a roof or even doors or
windows. Its existence is merely recorded here for the sake
of later investigators.
Savannah and Parts of the Far South.
cjrb
THE student of Georgian architecture familiar with
the Colonial work of New England, New York, the
Genesee Valley and Virginia does not easily find
interesting examples of the period farther south
than Charleston and Beaufort, S. C. This may seem strange
at first cry, but in reality it is what might be expected of a
section of country developed for the most part late in the
eighteenth century. Charleston, as is well known, was a
^l|pU>
Bluff. To the south of Savannah there was practically noth-
ing in the way of civilization until about the beginning of
the nineteenth century, except the Spanish settlement at St.
Augustine, whence voyagers made their way along the coast,
little by little, settling first in one spot and then another,
which accounts for the strain of Spanish feeling which shows
itself, as is obvious to any who take time to study the situa-
tion, through the region between Savannah and Florida.
'llie Gilmer House, Bull and Sute Streets, Savannaii, Ga.
fashionable community as early as 1773 with high ideas of Tliis reveals itself in the presence of low pavilion houses
art and architecture, with aristocratic tastes and manners, surrounded by one or two story verandas, between which
Beaufort and the neighboring sea islands were settled during and the characteristic houses of the Spanish West Indies
the first part of the seventeenth century, and one of the and the quaint double-decked verandas of Charleston there
earliest examples of good work in America is afforded by is a strong analogy. New Orleans, to be sure, was settled
the Jenkins House on Edisto Island, which was built in about 1723 — a few years earlier than Savannah — and
1683. Savannah, on the other hand, was a wilderness until should afford good examples, but (unfortunately for those
1733, when Oglethorpe landed with his party at Yamacraw who are interested in English work and the many phases of
' I'hotographed by Mrs. 'I'liaddcus llorton.
8y
90
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
its far-reaching influence) the early Louisianians were French
and Spanish, and the architecture of the region proclaims the
Latin rather than the Saxon.
Considering these facts it becomes apparent that the far
South — Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi — was subject ar-
chitecturally to the influences exerted by two different nation-
alities. The Georgian ideas
of the English travelled south
in company, naturally enough,
with the early English set-
tlers, who, as a class, being
richer than the French Hugue-
nots of the same period, built
finer houses than the latter,
thus exerting a more powerful
influence architecturally.
This influence may be said to
have particularly affected the
coast regions, whence it swept
across the country, meeting
finally a counter-current from
the West — the influence of
the French and Spanish
styles from New Orleans. Of
these the English was destined
to finally prove itself the most
pronounced throughout the
South ; for, having acquired
the habit of looking to the
mother country for prototypes,
the Southerner, always less
violent in his antipathies to
the English than his Northern
brother, continued to do so
after the Revolution, which
accounts for tlie presence of the colonnaded house of the
far South. This, strictly speaking, is an off-shoot from
the Classic revival which raged in England toward the last
of the eighteenth century and first appeared on the east
coast of America about 1800, whence, becoming immediately
popular and being well
adapted to the climate,
it spread through the en-
tire South from the At-
lantic to the banks of
the Mississippi and be-
yond them, enjoying a
great popularity in the
very heart of the French
district. In fact, the
white-columned house,
despite its foreign origin,
may be said to be more
truly vernacular than
anything in the South,
for, in time, the ideas
back of it became so ab-
sorbed by the Southern
builder as to be almost
a natural product result-
ing logically from the demands of climate and the tastes of
the people.
Savannah, Ga., though a seaport town of the Colonial
period, is strangely disappointing architecturally, and con-
tains few specimens of any value, which is rather odd in
view of the fact that, although the city was not settled until
1733, it had advanced far enough in the ethics of civilization
by 1738 to hold balls and dinners in honor of distinguished
English visitors and of those who were continually coming
over from Charleston to have a hand in the management of
things and to acquire for themselves and their heirs landed
interests of one kind or another
Tlie Old Exchange, Savannah, Ga. [i7'/>.]
An Old Brick Tomb, Savannah, Ga.
in the new colony.
In fact, though entirely
different in exterior aspect. Sa-
vannah is redolent with sug-
gestions of the Carolinas,
especially of Charleston.
There is Bull Street, named
for Col. William Bull, of Caro-
lina, who laid out the city of
Savannah. There is Drayton
Street, named for Thomas
Drayton, of the Ashley River,
and St. Julian Street, called
for James St. Julian, a friend
of the Georgia Colonists; and,
although the Savannah houses
for the most part belong to a
later period than the interest-
ing old dwellings pictured in
earlier pages as representing
the architecture of Charleston,
the observer is constantly
running upon, unawares, old
Georgian doorways set in the
plainest of clapboarded
houses, fan-lights, bits of old
ironwork : all of which remind
one that ideas once cast
abroad are continually cropping up in fertile places. The
paucity of early work in Savannah may be due to two differ-
ent causes, first, that two fires swept the city, the last as late
as 1802 ; second, that aside from General Oglethorpe and his
party, which included the ricli immigrants, Colonial Georgia
was more an asylum for
those wlio sought to
prove that poverty was no
disgrace than for those
favored oi.es of fortune
interested in building
fine houses.
The oldest structure of
any consequence in Sa-
vannah to-day is the Ex-
cliange Building, which,
begun in 1799, has filled
a variety of functions for
o\er a century, having
been as often used as a
theatre, a ballroom, and
a place of general as-
sembly on patriotic occa-
sions as for commercial
purposes.
Next to the Exchange Building the oldest and perhaps the
most interesting pieces of work in Savannah are four resi-
dences which were built about the same time by the same
architect and may therefore be classed together.
These are commonly spoken of as Scarbersugh house,
SAVANNAH AND PARTS OF THE FAR SOUTH.
91
which is situated in Yamacraw, the oldest section of the city ;
Owens house, the Telfair residence, now the Telfair Art Gal-
lery, and Bulloch house on Orleans Square.
All of these houses were built by an English architect
by the name of Jay who did considerable work in and
around Savannah early in the nineteenth century. The
Owens house is known to have been built in 1S15, the Bul-
loch house was completed
in 1818 and the other two
about the same period.
The Owens house, strange
to say, is built of '• tabby,"'
which must have been a
material new to the English
architect ; the others are
of brick sent from England
presumably, although
native brick was procurable
in Savannah as early as
1820. The Owens, the
Telfair, and the Scarbor-
ough houses are not dis-
similar though they are
quite differently propor-
tioned, and may be said
to express, in a vague way
the architectural person-
ality of the builder. Of the three the Scarborough house
is the most interesting. Though at present utilized as a
negro school and situated in the heart of a rough district,
robbed of all interior adornment, marred by the elements,
and deprived by chance of the quiet and repose to which in
All of the houses built by Jay in Savannah were square
in plan, with kitchen and servants' rooms in an ell to the
rear. All of the rooms were large, the feature of each house
being invariably the staircase, which in each of these four
instances was constructed differently. In the case of the
Scarborough house the staircase, which is exceedingly wide
and of a rather heavy design, rises abruptly immediately in
front of the entrance, leav-
ing an open space to the
rear of it; the Telfair stair-
case rises in very much
the same manner, but is
constructed differently;
the staircase of the Owens
house rises about the mid-
dle centre of the hallway
to the rear of a colonnade
consisting of four gold-
capped Corinthian col-
umns, and ascends to a
landing, on either side of
which second runs arise
completing the ascent to
the story above, the stair-
opening thus made forming
a sort of arcade through
which those on the upper
story can see what is going on below. The staircase - of
the Bulloch house is spiral in character.
Although the city of Savannah is disappointing in itself to
those interested in searching out specimens of the early work
of American builders, the surrounding country, if studied
understandingly, offers many interesting suggestions in the
way of country houses which point to that mode of life
peculiar to the far South prior to the Civil War. One of the
Scarboroiigli House, Broad Street, Savannah. [1S15.] Jay, Architect.^
i
<F^
\) u B a^
I
I
MALL I
I
; dr-
p o
•ul
M
1
Plans of tilt Scarboroiii;li House,
best of these is the " Hermitage," on a rice plantation on
the Savannah River, six miles or so out from the city, which
the natural order of things old places seem entitled, it pos- though not built until about 1820, is interesting, inasmuch as
sesses still, though given up to vulgar usage, a singular air the materials used in its construction were chiefly native
of repose and dignity. bricks which are known to have been manufactured on the
>" Tabby " is evidently a corruption of the Sjjanish " /tipia" a founded with the houses built in Florida of coquina, a natural lime-
mud wall and the niate'rial is a species of concrete or artificial stone with marine shells and coral for the conglomerate. — Ki).
stone composed largely of pounded oyster-sliells. 'Ihe tihby- M'late 9, I'art XII. "This and the subjects 011 pp. 92, 93
built house of .South Carolina and (Icorgia must not he con- after pliotographs l)y Mrs. 'I'haddeus Horton.
92
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
spot; and furthermore in that it has preserved to this day
the quaint negro cabins and quarters that were in use during
slavery, the place as a whole having been but lightly touched
by the hand of those given to modern improvements.
It is curiously interesting during these days which, even in
the South, are so far removed in spirit from the days of half
a century ago to find oneself surrounded by the symbols of a
life which to modern eyes is curiously unlike anything now
existing. Passing up the
wide sandy road that leads
to the " Hermitage," bor-
dered on either side with
giant water-oaks overgrown
with tillandsia (Spanish
moss), one sees the brick
mansion itself at the end
of a vista of misty, swaying
drapery, flanked to the
front (or rear, whichever
you prefer, the " Hermit-
age " having two fronts,
one facing the river and
the other the land road)
with parallel rows of negro
huts, some of brick, others
of wood, and still others of
tabby, having, as a rule,
thatched roofs. There,too,
is the slave hospital, an unusual-looking pavilion-like structure
smacking of the West Indies. Little by little the slave-
quarters of the " Hermitage " have fallen into hopeless disre-
pair; but enough remains even at this late day to interest,
not only students of American civilization, but even the casual
observer, who, as a rule, is not susceptible to historical im-
pressions. The " Hermitage" produces an indescribable sen-
sation. The house, though more or less Georgian in char-
acter, with a tendency toward such thoughtful work as could
be produced in that locality at that period, represents on the
Telfair Art Gall.
The civilization of Charleston prior to the Revolution
as well as that of Salem, Mass., and the other coast cities
of the Colonies, was practically English, just as the life
that obtains to-day in the " British Dominions Beyond the
Sea" reflects the ideas and ideals of the mother country;
but the civilization that arose in the far South after the Revo-
lution was of another genre. This is particularly true of the
rice-plantation district, and the cotton, or "black," belt,
which began in the central
part of Western Georgia
and stretched across Ala-
bama, Mississippi, and a
part of Louisiana, in which,
prior to the war, the great-
est number of negroes
were congested, their pres-
ence being a necessary ad-
junct of the successful
production of the vast
crops of the region. Each
of the world's great staples
creates a life peculiar to
itself to which those who
handle it are subject, and,
as a natural result, exist-
ence in the rice-regions of
South Carolina and Geor-
' gia and in the cotton-belt,
though colored, it is true, by English and French influences,
so adapted itself to the climate and to the large, yet simple,
demands of plantation duties as to produce something similar
yet different, something altogether American, colored and
modified by the gentle genius of the Southern country. The
region between Savannah and Brunswick, around about
Darien, and up and down the Altamaha River, comprised the
richest rice-lands in Georgia, stocked with game — wild duck,
wild turkey, snipe, woodcock, rice-birds — shaded with live-
oak and cypress trees, and dotted here and there with green
[About 1815-20.] Jay, Arcliitcct.
Minus House, Orleans Square, Savannah.
whole a later epoch than the buildings we have been consid-
ering. It also represents a civilization later than that of the
Colonial period. Nevertheless, the place, as a whole, sur-
rounded, as it is, with slave-huts, beyond which stretch the
low, level rice and cotton fields, through which the broad Sa-
vannah River wanders at pleasure, dawdling here and hurry-
ing there, stands for a mode of life more typical of the south
of the United States than any of the more formal abodes of
a more formal people.
Owens House, Savannah. [1815.] Jay, Architect.
marshes. These regions exhibit a great variety of plantation-
houses possessing no architectural features, being for the
most part mere carpenter-shacks, yet so obviously the result
of human existence and its needs, of demand and supply, as
to be valuable as types. It is strange how a house with no
architectural enrichment, with no architectural grammar, so
to speak, may yet possess a certain charm, a certain original
value of its own. The art of building, always so closely allied
to the many phases of human life, is never more obviously so
SAVANNAH AND PARTS OF THE FAR SOUTH.
93
-Jli'^
[..:!»•
'''^
?^'>'^!a
— , — j^^^-' - ^^
Bulloch House, Orleans Square, Savannah. [iSiS ] Jay, Architect.
than in the plantation-districts of the far South, and there
one sometimes comes upon original ideas of construction,
crudely expressed, but interesting, and often significant.
One of the celebrated plantations of the Altamaha region
was formerly owned by Pierce Butler, whose marriage with
Fanny Kemble was one of the notable events of the early
thirties, and it was while spending a winter at this place that
the actress wrote her cele-
brated "Journal of Life on
a Georgia Plantation,"
which was published some
years later and widely read
both in this country and
England. The house on
the Butler estate is no
longer standing, having
been a poor thing, some-
what after the bungalow
style, built by the crudest
of slave labor.
Perhaps the most pre-
tentious piece of work on
the Altamaha was " Hope-
ton House," the place of
James Hamilton Couper,
who, in common with
Pierce Butler, had large
holdings in this section as well as on the sea islands which
hug the coast of Georgia and produce as fine sea-island
cotton as the world affords. Hopeton House is now a ruin,
but from sketches of it preserved in the Couper family it ap-
pears to have been after the style of an English manor-house.
The plans of Hopeton House were drawn by Mr. Couper
himself, and the building oper-
ations were conducted under
his supervision, for, in com-
mon with many Southern gen-
tlemen of that period, he was
a student of architecture and a
liberal subscriber to English
periodicals and plates.'
Another example of his work
is afforded by Christ Church,
Savannah, built about 1838,
which, though rather com-
' Voluminous works on architect-
ure and folio-plates are to be found
in many old Southern lil)raries.
•Writes the Hon. Amelia Mur-
ray in her letters: " Mr. Couper
tells me he once tried the capa-
bilities of the most active among
his people by giving them the
cultivation of fifty acres for them-
s;lves ; the first season, under
direction, the plantation cleared
$1,500, which he took care to
give to them in silver, hoping that
would incite their industry; the
next year he left to their own
management; the crop lessened
one-half; and the third season,
left to themselves, they let the land run to waste so that it was
useless to let them retain it. Yet these same people will labor
readily and contentedly under good superintendence. And such
is their feeling for their master that in some cases where freshets
have put his crops in danger they have worked freely eighteen
hours out of the twenty-four to .save them — more than they would
have done for themselves in any such case. The thanks of Mr.
Couper and a few little presents made them quite happy. They are
devoted servants and miserable free people. When I watch the con-
mercial in character, is perhaps the most interesting of the
Savannah churches.
" Hopeton " was the scene of a very fashionable and elab-
orate winter life from the early thirties until the late fifties,
and guests from all parts of America and abroad were enter-
tained there after the hospitable style of the Southern plan ter ;
the life that obtained there being, on the whole, not dissimilar
from the life that is consid-
ered peculiar to the country
gentry of England, with the
exception that the crop
was cultivated by black
slaves instead of by white
tenantry. Indeed Mr.
Couper made an effort to
adopt the English tenantry
plan in its entirety,'^ but the
negro character proved too
shiftless to be entirely en-
trusted with the manage-
ment of land. One of the
many notable guests enter-
tained at " Hopeton " dur-
ing the early fifties was the
Honorable Amelia M. Mur-
ray, an English litterateur
and Court lady, who, while
touring the United States and Canada, wrote her impressions
in letters to England, which were published in one of the
London papers and afterwards brought out in book form.
While at " Hopeton " she enjoyed her first intimate view of
Southern plantation life, and was so favorably impressed
with it and the happy and healthy condition of Mr. Couper's
four hundred slaves that she
wrote in vindication of slavery
in the South, to which, as is
well known, the British masses
were greatly opposed. Her
letters naturally excited the
displeasure and condemnation
of the English people, who
had preconceived opinions on
the subject which they did not
care to relinquish. In one of
them'' she compared the state
sideration, kindness and patience
sliown by the white gentlemen
and white gentlewomen to tliese
darkies, I could say to some anti-
slavery people 1 have known,
' (Jo thou and do likewise.' "
'"I forgot to mention," writes
Mrs. Murray, " that there are
from three to four hundred ne-
groes on this estate. Mr. and
Mrs. Couper have no white ser-
vants ; tlieir family consists of six
sons and tliree daughters. I
should not like to inhabit a lonely
part of Ireland or even Scotland
surrounded only by three hundred
Celts. I belitve there is not a
soldier or policeman nearer than Savannah, a distance of sixty
miles. .Surely this speaks volumes for the contentment of the
slave population. Wlien I think of the misery and barbarism of
the peasantry in Kintail and other parts of .Scotland (putting aside
tliat of Ireland) and tlien look at the people here it is hardly
possiljle not to blush at the recollection of all the hard words I
have heard applied to the slaveholders of the .South. Why, the
very pigsties of the negroes are better than some Celtic hovels I
have seen."
94
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
of the Southern negro slave
to tliat of the Scotch ar.d
Irish peasant classes, and so
unfavorably to the latter that
the British public, already
displeased, became so highly
incensed that Mrs. Murray's
dismissal from Court be-
came necessary as an act of
policy. It is interesting to
know that two such contrary
reports as those of the Hon-
orable Mrs. Murray and of
Frances Ann Kemble could
have emanated respectively
from two Englishwomen
viewing the same locality at
almost the same period.
The fact that the planta-
tion districts of the far
South, those stretching
through the interior of Geor-
gia, Alabama,, the western
part of South Carolina, and
the central portion of Missis-
sippi and the northern por-
tion of Florida were settled
for the most part about the
first of the nineteenth cen-
tury removes the work of
that region from what is,
properly speaking, the
Georgian period; yet the
presence of the white colon-
naded houses throughout
this section shows plainly
that the architectural influ-
ence of England continued
after the Revolution. This
is more particularly true of
the South, beginning with
Virginia, than with the
North, although one of t h e
earliest and best examples
of a colonnaded portico in
America is theChilds house,
Rochester, N.Y., built in 1800.
The colonnaded house of the
far South, which, in its de-
gen er ate form, may be
spoken of as the " white-
pillared " house, does not
belong to the Georgian
period, but to the Classic
Revival, which was, how-
ever, so obviously an out-
growth of preceding styles
as to come in naturally for
some consideration ; further-
more, the white-pillared
house is, in a sense, the final
figure in the background
upon which our present ar-
chitectural modernity rests.
' Photoj^r.iphed Ijy Mrs. Hoi ton.
Portico of the Bulloch House, Savannah, Ga. '
Drawiiifi-room ; IJulluch House, Savannah, Ga.
II.
But for the Greek Revival
which started in England
toward the last of the eigh-
teenth century, the general
character of architectural
styles in the plantation dis-
tricts of the far South would
have been quite different,
though one can but wonder
what the Southern planter
would have built on his sa-
vanna had not Greek and
Roman columns been domi-
nant in the work of the dav.
Certainly nothing could have
more perfectly suited his
climate, the large yet simple
purposes of his life, or his
taste, which, as a rule, was
more or less grandiose.
One must have a portico in
the South. Why not have
it extend all around the
house ? One must have
posts to support the roof of
the portico. Why not have
Greek columns instead
(since they were the fash-
ion) "i 'i'he proposition was
beautifully simple; so sim-
ple, indeed, that, once in-
troduced, the style spread
with remarkable rapidity.
The grandeur of the effect
aTid the simplicity with
which it was obtained were
both in its favor. The more
columns the Southern
planter used the better he
liked it; and, since one was
copying Greek styles, why
not copy the Temple of
Theseus or the Parthenon
and be done with it.' The
Southern planter of the early
nineteenth century was a
man of enormous purposes;
the architectural ideas sug-
gested by the greatest monu-
ments of antiquity were but
grist for his mill, and, as a
result, full half the houses
in the South — the Coleman
house, of Macon, Ga., the
Pew house, in Madison,
"Dunleith," in Natchez (the
mansard roof of which is a
late addition), Houmas
house, on the Mississippi,
"Belle Grove," also on
the Mississippi, and many
others, were all expressions,
in one form or another, of
the same idea.
SAVANNAH AND PARTS OF THE FAR SOUTH.
95
At the time when the Greek Revival was at its height in will, you can't make them very ugly. The art-gallery opens to
England, the United States was just beginning to recover one side on another columned portico which leads out across
from the ravages of the Revolution and to turn its attention a flagged floor to the level of the lawn. The library is a
toward building. The Government let a contract for the separate building — a not uncommon arrangement in the
White House, and for additions to the Capitol. The White South — • which allowed its use as an office as well. The in-
House, by the
way, though it
did not take on
its Ionic por-
tico until about
1820, when,
during the ad-
ministration of
Andrew Jack-
son, it was re-
modelled, is
one of the most
notable exam-
ples of the
Classic Revival
in America,
and on the
whole, a typical
residence of an
English coun-
try gentleman
— our Presi-
dents of the
early ni ne-
teenth century
were American
country gentle-
men.
Andrew Jack-
son may have
had some influ-
ence in decid-
ing on the char-
acter of the
im provements,
for, as is well
known, he was
himself a great
admirer of the
Classic Orders,
and "The Her-
mitage," his
seat near Nash-
ville, shows a
white colon-
nade.
"Fort Hill,"'
theseat of John
C. Calhoun,
which was built
early in the
nineteenth cen-
tury after de-
signs drawn by
'I'he Portico of the McAlpin House, Orleans Square, Savannah, Ga.'
[About 1S20. ]
terior of " Fort
Hill " shows a
succession o f
rather low
rooms opening
into one an-
other, reached
through unex-
pected pas-
sages, which in-
dicates that the
house was
added-to from
time to time
rather than that
it was built orig-
inally as it now
stands. At
the time of the
death of its last
individual
owner, Clen-
son, Calhoun's
s o n -i n- law,
"Fort Hill"
was very much
as it had been
during the
statesman's
lifetime. It
was filled with
curious furni-
ture, pictures,
china, and the
walls showed
the quaint pa-
perings of a
past period.
The library
was filled with
old edit ion s
and newspa-
pers, old manu-
scripts, and
dusty scrap-
books showing
press c o ni -
ments upon the
period when
("lay, Calhoun
and Webster
swayed the
country with
their great coii-
Calhoun himself, was another effort to follow the style most troversies and splendid eloquence. The art-gallery was hung
approved in ICngland. It is, on the whole, a poor structure, with family portraits, and, as a whole, " Fort Hill " presented
built of local material and by untrained slave labor, yet the as complete a setting for the home-life of a great man of the
front portico with its columns of solid masonry is rather im- middle nineteenth century as could be found in America,
posing. You can make white columns absurd, but, try as you In considering the influences exerted by the styles of the
*"Fort Hiil" (page 99) is now the property of Clcmson College, of which it is a part. 'Photographed by Mrs. Thaddeus llorton.
96
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
McAliin House, Orleans Square, Savannah, Ga.
Hansell House, Rosewell, Oa. [1820.]
Bulloch House, Rosewtll, Ga. [1820.]
SAVANNAH AND PARTS OF THE FAR SOUTH
97
Greek revival, it is necessary to divide the white-columned
houses of the South into two groups — those built by pro-
fessional architects and those built by the owners themselves.
Of the two, the latter were in the great majority. In fact,
almost the only white-columned houses showing the touch
of the student's hand are those found occasionally in the
coast cities of the South. One of the earliest of these is
the Witte house,
of Charleston.
This, as ex-
plained else-
where,^ was built
in 1810 after de-
signs furnished
by English archi-
tects, and is, on
the whole, a very
ambitious piece
of building, more
European than
American in
character. Al-
though a town
house, it enjoys
all the a d V a n -
tages of privacy
in a remarkable
degree, for while
the front over-
looks an English
garden and
aviary, the rear
is built up on a
line with the side
street that marks
the city block, af-
fording a trades-
men's entrance
and the other
conveniences ne-
cessary. Passing
along this street
and looking up
at the pretentious
four-story struct-
ure from the
rear, one would
imagine it but an
ordinary city resi-
dence, while in
reality, like a true
mystic, it hides
its beauties from
view. By adroit
arrangemen t
often seen in Eu-
ropean cities it
turns its worst side to the public, saving its abundant adorn-
ment for those who know and love it intimately. The An-
crum house," with its lofty pillared portico to one side, is
another Charleston example of the influence of the Greek
revival.
The Bulloch house, Savannah, Ga., which was built in 18 18,
is, on the whole, a pretentious piece of work. It was de-
1 Plate 1 6, Part X. 'Plate 16, Part X.
I'orlico of " Tlie ilermilaj;
signed by Jay and built, according to tradition, of English
brick.
With such houses as these as models the Southern planter
of the early nineteenth century began his task, which was a
large one. Usually he had two houses to build, one on his
plantation and another in some neighboring village for the
convenience of his family ; consequently, such towns as
Athens, Washing-
ton and La
Grange, Ga.,
Greenwood, Ala.,
Aberdeen, Miss.,
and others of the
same class, filled
with white-pil-
lared houses of
one kind or an-
other (for the
Southerner, hav-
ing become ac-
customed to this
style, was satis-
fied with no
other), sprang up
through the Cot-
ton Belt, and
maintained their
unruffled exist-
ence until the
breaking out of
the Civil War.
The building
of a village house
and a country
house were two
entirely diflerent
propositions, the
forme r being
comparatively
easy, as material
w a s procurable
with little diffi-
culty ; but the
planter, clearing
a new plantation,
and building a
covering for him-
self here and
there throughout
the vast unex-
plored Southern
wilderness, just
after the Revo-
lution and at the
beginning of
the nineteenth
century, was
facing the enormous task which from time immemorial has
confronted migratory man. First, of course, he built a hut,
then he added to it, then after a few years, when his land
began yielding plentifully, he turned himself to the building
of a permanent domicile. By this time white columns were
to be seen in the South. Perhaps he built a one-story house,
in which event the white columns were usually there just the
" Photographed by Mrs. Thaddeus Horton.
the Savannah River, Ga. [1.S30.P
98
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
same, or, perhaps, the plantation being near enough to civil-
ization for his family to reside there all the year round, he
prepared careful plans, with four great rooms to a floor — two
on each side, with a wide hallway running between — and a
two-storied portico to the front (and sometimes to the rear as
well), with the kitchen occupying a low pavilion to one side.^
Having perfected his plans the Southern planter set about
having them executed.
Bands of negroes searched [
the uncleared lands for suit-
able timber. Trees were
often used for columns, when
those of the required pro-
portions could be secured,
and if flutes were desired
they were cut out by hand
(time was of no considera-
tion in the Cotton Belt).
Foliated capitals of one kind
or another were occasionally
used when a workman could
be found who could execute
so delicate a task ; but until
ten years or so before the
Civil War, when galvanized
capitals first made their ap-
pearance, the Doric Order
only was attempted in the
Cotton Belt. Most com-
monly, however, the col-
umns were made of masonry,
rough-cast, as in the case of
the Hansell house,^ at Ros-
well, Ga. ; sometimes they
were built square, with a
Byzantine effect ; and occa-
sionally they were crude
constructions of long,
dressed plank put together
in sections, as in the case of
the Bulloch house,' at Ros-
well, built about 1820.
Working under such dis-
advantages it is not surpris-
ing that seme of the houses
of Southern builders thus
planned and executed were,
as might be expected, pa-
thetic objects, with enormous
1 See drawing of Callioun
House, Newnan, (ia. Plate
46, Part X. The Calhoun
house, at Newnan, has two
fronts, one a reprofluction of
the other. The story told and
generally credited in connec-
tion with thisfact is to the effect
that the builder and his wife
disagreed as to whether the open expanse in front of the house
should Ije utilized as a lawn or a flower-garden. It proved im-
possilile to settle this matter amicably until Mr. Calhoun conceived
the hapijy idea of allowing the house to have two fronts and re-
peated in the rear the colonnade treatment intended for the front.
As a result the Calhoun house faces a grove of trees on one side, and
a terraced flower-garden on the otlier. This arrangement forced
the kitchen into a side ell which otlierwise might have extended
to the rear. The kitchen in the far South prior to the Civil War
was most commonly an entirely sejiarate out-building, situated at a
tTki
porticos out of all proportion to the importance of the house
into which they afford entrance, reminding one eternally of
such ambitious persons as invariably put their best foot for-
ward. In the South, as elsewhere, man was not master of
his fate in architecture, and often houses, even those most
carefully planned, the proportions of whose columns were
most carefully studied, worked out their own untoward end,
, just as a child sometimes
achieves a sad destiny inde-
pendent of its parent.
Others just as unexpectedly
developed into true archi-
tecture, unions of tradition
and necessity in beauty.
For all that, however, the
white columned house ful-
filled its functions perfectly
— which is always the main
consideration. So perfectly
that after thirty-five years'
experience with other styles
the rich Southerner has
found nothing that so per-
fectly suits him ; and as a
result many modern houses
of to-day in the South are
repeating the colonnade and
other features of the ante-
bellum residence. In time
the old and the new may
possibly stand as the ac-
cepted architecture of the
far South, where climatic
conditions are absolutely
opposed to the small win-
dows, low ceilings, and com-
pressed styles acceptable
elsewhere.
One of the features that
particularly distinguish the
Southern residence from its
Northern contemporary is
the presence of the veranda,
which, brought to the South
from the West Indies,
whence it had travelled from
Spain, Italy, and even
from England (there were
tavern verandas and
Independent i'l
tciian Cluircli, Savannah, Ga.'
a covered passageway, but just
as often not. When placed in
an ell tliey were invariably
separated from the body of the
house by a covered veranda.
Such an arrangem.ent seems an
awkward one in face of pres-
ent-day usages, but servants
being plentiful in the South
prior to the War, no thought was given to their convenience. A
very distinguished lady who in her youth lived in the Drayton-
Gibbes house, Charleston (Part X, Plate 14), tells me that quite
often breakfast was served in the drawing-room, which occupied
one side of the third floor. (Think of having a drawing-room on
the third floor !) " And," she says, " when we wanted a hot waf-
fle the steward had to run down two flights of stairs and out in the
yard to get it."
2 See cut, p.age 96.
The present church, of white marble, liuilt not many years ago.
distance of 50 or 100 feet from the house, sometimes reached by is an exact reproduction of tlie one burned shortly before.
SAVANNAH AND PARTS OF THE FAR SOUTH.
99
balconies during Will Shakespeare's day), developed many west of the far South, together with what is to be found on
new and interesting phases in the hands of the Southern the Mississippi River representing with some picturesque-
planter. First, there is the porch of the Georgian Period, ness the architectural ideas of the Greek Revival,
well illustrated by the Miles Brewton House of Charleston ; Natchez, on the Mississippi, which was first settled about
then there is the huge three ^ , 1720, was, prior to the war, a
and four story verandas of the
San Domingo houses of
Charleston, presenting a form
of construction that is continu-
ally reproducing itself through-
out the far South; finally,
there is the colonnade veranda
of the white-pillared houses of
the Cotton Belt.
With these three motifs to
work with, the Southern builder,
limited as he was in material
and labor (for though slave
labor was plentiful it was al-
ways unskilled during this
early phase of Southern life),
produced many varieties of shaded retreats.
A section of country which affords an interesting exhibit
of country houses, well adapted to a semi-tropical climate, is
that part of Louisiana given up to the Catholic parishes
and inhabited almost exclusively by French Creoles. These
parishes, settled originally
by French-Canadian immi-
grants, stretch from the
Gulf and Bay of Biloxi
as far north as Natchez,
Miss. As the residence
section of what was for-
merly a colony of French
Catholics, the houses still
standing in these parishes
are naturally Gallic in
character, and yet so
strongly influenced by
Spanish ideas as well
(which on the whole were
better suited to a warm
climate than French ones,
which belong to a higher
latitude) as to be similar
in much to the Hispano-
English houses of Charleston and the surrounding country.
It is this feeling — the Spanish feeling — which connects
the low pavilion houses of the French parishes with the work
we have been considering; it is this influence — the Spanish
influence — which blends the east of the far South with the
"Astrudeville," Va,
typical city of the Cotton and
Sugar Belt, and many of its old
homes are still intact, notably
"Dunleith" and " Monte-
bello," which may be said to
stand for the Classic Revival in
its most pronounced form, as
adapted to plantation condi-
tions in the far South.
All along the Mississippi,
from Natchez through the con-
necting parishes with their
quaint pavilion houses, "White
Ladies," " Les C h e n e s , '
" Plaisance Plantation," and
many other celebrated homes
of old Creole families, to New Orleans, one finds still many
buildings and customs that point clearly enough to the life
of the old seigneurs. In Lower Mississippi the signs of a
similar civilization are to be found. " Beauvoir," the hoii e
of Jefferson Davis, is typical of the houses of this region. It
is surrounded by detached
pavilions, one used as a
library, another used for
the exclusive accommoda-
tion of gentlemen guesis,
and as a whole, simple,
cool, spacious, it is a
representative abode of
a Southern country gentle-
man of that section of
country.
A guest visiting the plan-
t a t i o n homes of Lower
Mississippi or in the
parishes is still given a
cup of black coffee and a
roll in the early morning;
then he is invited to ac-
company his host on horse-
back to inspect the crops.
On their return breakfast is served — a meal of real French
abundance and variety, accompanied by a display of fine china
and linen, and tall bottles of Bordeaux — offered with a kind-
liness and courtesy not to be exceeded, and enjoyed to the ac-
companiment of animated small-talk. C. R. S. Horton.
■-^1^^^
" Beimont," Loudon Couniy, Va.
a
Millford," in the High Hill of Santee, S. C,
NOWHERE in the South is there a country-seat
more strikingly individual than the Manning
homestead in the High Hills of Santee, South
Carolina. Certainly, few plantation-houses were
ever built with more care or at greater cost. The architect
was induced to come from New York for the sole purpose of
putting up an ideal dwelling in this rural spot, where every
brick and stone, every bit of framing and decoration, must
be got from foreign parts, freighted ninety miles up the San-
tee River from Charleston, and hauled over crude roads, up
steep hills, to the site. The South Carolina Railroad, pioneer
of its class in the United States, was only five or six years
old when the foundations of the house were laid : and the
railroad passed nowhere near it. The river was the only
practical means of transportation from the outside world.
All the skilled laborers and decorators who aided in the
building had to make long journeys by private conveyance
to reach the spot. Nevertheless, the house, as it stands
to-day, would win notice on a stately city avenue. And, all
solitary in its wildwood setting, the superb, if lonely, pros-
pect outspread before it but gives additional worth and em-
phasis.
The building was more than two years in course of con-
struction and is said to have cost its founder $100,000. Full
seventy feet long by forty-five feet wide and three stories in
height, with a finely columned Grecian porch, the mansion
pleases the eye, not only as to substantialness, but in grace
of outline. Although the builder had a liking for the ornate
and sumptuous, as is proved by the statuary niched in the
walls and the devices ornamenting the great pillars which
support the porch roof, only so much decoration as comports
with the style of architecture was permitted to appear. The
planters from the Georgetown section, who had dwellings in
the high, dry plateau of the Sand Hills and had lived there
successively since early settlement days, would have con-
structed fine homes for themselves long before 1830 had
conditions been different. But up to that time, lime, a chief
ingredient in structures built of stone or brick, was procured
only with much difficulty and at expense. Transportation
from sections where bricks were made was a serious issue,
and as timber was plenty, the residents had wooden houses,
planned on an ample scale, but crude, from the modern
standpoint, planing-mills being few and but newly introduced
in the country.
In the first decade after the Revolution houses com-
fortable and pleasing in structure were to be found within a
half mile of each other in this favored district. Even before
that time a good classical school and a circulating-library
were supported there. And when Governor Manning
erected this sumptuous new dwelling on the family lands in
the Sand Hills the neighborhood could furnish abundant
society, descendants and connections of the original settlers,
people from Louisiana and Virginia, having built homes there,
attracted by the unusually fine climate and fertile lands, peo-
ple of cultivated tastes, versed in the arts and enjoyments of
life.
The Manning house is unused now, although in good pres-
ervation. With the passing of slavery, the tillage of the
lands and the care of the extensive grounds were too costly
to be worth while. The visitor's footsteps echo emptily on the
handsome tiled flooring of the broad veranda. Seldom are
the garden walks traversed save by the pickaninnies, the
little grandchildren of the caretaker. Occasionally neigh-
bors visit the spot to get some rare plant or flowering shrub
for transplanting to their gardens, or else to look in through
some gaping window-blind at the furnishings within. But
entertainments were frequent there up to the time that the
Civil War shut down on an exceptionally prosperous commu-
nity. The great drawing-rooms, with their full-length mirro's
and artistic decoration, often held gatherings of distinguished
and interesting people. The Christmas house-parties were
famous. For ten days at that season all occupations, even
politics, were laid aside and jollification ruled. Every plan-
tation thereabout had its own band of trained fiddlers, banjo
and bone players, enthusiastic musicians who sought to outdo
one another in vim and efficiency when the dances were held
at their respective houses. Sometimes the minuet and lan-
cers would be danced with representatives of four distinct
generations in a single set, so thoroughly did the old folks
and the young unite in innocent pastime.
The old lodge-keeper at the porter's lodge, which yet
stands by the entrance-gate, could tell of the gay parties he
was wont to let in and out of the " Millford " grounds by day
and night in the happy days. But he, along with a host of
family retainers, is elsewhere now seeking a living. Only one
ex-slave does the honors of the home-place, one Benjamin
Pleasants, body-servant to the late Governor. The old man
has little to do as guardian, for the neighborhood is almost as
deserted now as it was once populous. The fine mahogany
tables and chairs, the rare old candlesticks, the Japanese
curios and articles of virtu brought from foreign lands that
are yet within the house are safe behind unlocked doors, for
only a simple-minded tenantry, who would not know what to
do with them if they stole them, live nearby, and the location
is far off the track of tourists and dealers in antiquities.
The old body-servant has had romance in his life. Once,
in the early forties, he attended his master to Canada. The
journey was an undertaking in those days, and Ben was re-
garded as a hero by the other house-servants because of the
chance to make it. While in Canada some zealous aboli-
tionists kidnapped Ben, and secreted him until Governor
M inning had ceased to make search and had started back
■MILLFORD," LV THE HIGH HH.LS OF SANTEE, S. C.
lor
home. When they told Ben that he was free and need never
work again for any but his own interests, Ben, being thick-
headed and warm-hearted, was greatly distressed. He kept
his own counsel, but resolved to work his way back to his
master, no matter how long it took. He got back after
months of hardship, and great was the rejoicing in the " Mill-
ford " household on the day he appeared, safe and sound.
There was frolic and feasting in the big brick kitchen-
quarters, and numerous were the "paroles" applied for by
Ben's friends on neighboring plantations, anxious to get over
to the Manning place and see for themselves that he was
back, looking and acting just as before.
Politics was a strong interest with all the families allied
with this family seat. The inmates could get up a notable
company at any time, just among their own relatives. As
though the high hills over which these men ruled instigated
in them a spirit of dominance, no little corner of the State
atorial honor and prevented the Governor from taking his seat.
The old home site has several times shared in epoch-mak-
ing scenes. Lord Rawdon camped on the spot in June,
1 78 1, when he made his long, forced march from Charleston
for the relief of the garrison at Ninety-Six. Lord Cornwallis
had also made the place a visit on his way to the battle of
Camden, the year previous. A spring-house, canopied with
a dome patterned after St. Paul's Cathedral, in London, now
marks the spot where the British soldiery got such clear,
cold water in that burning midsummer time. The site is
just across the river from " Fort Motte " of romantic memory,
and was in direct line with the other British posts along the
Santee Valley from Charleston. General Sumter and his
men passed and repassed " Millford " on their expeditions
against these posts ; as fast as Lord Rawdon managed to
relieve one fort, the Americans appearing before another.
It was to these Sand Hills that Marion retired in the winters
\H.
Dining-room The Major Joseph Puncan House ■
■ Pal').-? Kcriturhy ■
[abotit r79(i 1
■E P M QjVr (Irnwlngs hy P Dougtirrty -
ever contributed so many leaders in war, in legislative as-
sembly and public matters. Governor Manning himself
was the second of his name to fill the Gubernatorial chair.
He married, first, Miss Hampton, a fine woman and a fine
fortune, and at her death allied himself with a distinguished
Virginia family. His mother was of a family whose habit it
was to be Governors, and she held the relationship of being
respectively the daughter, sister, mother and aunt of a
Governor of South Carolina, three Richardsons having at
various times filled that ofBce since 1802, and all descend-
ants of that Richard Richardson who ably seconded Gen-
eral Marion in his military manoeuvres conducted from
Snow's Island, just across the country from tlie Santee. Im-
mediately after the Civil War, Governor Manning was elected
to the United States Senate, but evil times then prevailed.
The carpet-baggers had other views for that particular Sen-
to recruit his little, hard-fought army, knowing that there
they would be singularly exempt from the cold of the low-
lands. Marion and Sumter were natives of this district,
and understood its characteristics. Once Sumter, with
one hundred and fifty horsemen, plunged into the Santee
near this point, and gained the opposite bank successfully
to tiie astonishment of the British, who dared not follow.
To ride, and swim, and shoot at one hundred and fifty yards
were habitual with the Sand Hill dwellers.
The black waters of the Wateree, which river has a swamp
three miles deep, and the clay-colored waters of the Conga-
ree, come together, and form the Santee at a point a few
miles above the " Millford " landing. The confluence makes a
goodly spectacle. And farther on the yellow waters prevail,
the broad Santee preserving that tinge all its ninety-odd
miles to the sea.
I02
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Once again, in April, 1865, " Millford " felt the impress of
hostile footfall : one of Sherman's aides took the house for
headquarters, while the raiding troops were passing, and
while that other great army of contrabands was got under
way. Then the ladies of the family sat at the upper win-
dows and watched the rabble and tumult without, and be-
held their slave people passing on and away to a new era of
existence. The commanding officer was a man of discrimi-
nation. He admired the stately plantation-home and pre-
served order about it to the best of his ability. It is twenty
years since the place has been actually lived in. With
changing times the family interests have centred elsewhere,
the daughters marrying into other communities, the sons en-
gaging in city businesses. No one has time or means to live
at leisure in the old home when so much around and without
it has changed, and so, although the weather has made no
inroads as yet, and the superb climate of the Hills is as en-
ticing as ever, the place is left to itself, mute witness to the
tastes and requisites of a time that is gone.
Olive F. Gunby.
The Men who Designed the Old Colonial Buildings.
ONE of our architectural writers in comparing
Gothic architecture with that of the Renaissance
makes the point that it was in the latter style
that the individuality of the architect appeared,
that all Gothic work by its strength and vigor completely
swept away any personality, however strong, which the de-
signer or designers might possess. Whether this is really
true or not, or whether the fact that the chief knowledge of
the architectural monuments of Northern Europe of the
Gothic period rests on only slight historical foundation, as
regards names and dates, while that of the Renaissance is
generally reenforced by pretty accurate records of the men
who did the work, may not be responsible, or whether it
is simply that we do not understand the characteristics of
the Gothic works as well ; or whatever may be the reason, it
is undoubtedly true that the architectural student can deter-
mine with much greater accuracy from certain peculiarities
of construction and decoration the probable designers of
buildings of the Renaissance period. The work of Brunel-
leschi, of Michelozzi, or Alberti, of Palladio, or of their sev-
eral schools can be pretty definitely determined by a more
or less careful examination of the work, and often a building
shows distinctly the stamp of an individual ; but while Gothic
work varies in localities and shows for varying localities cer-
tain distinctly-marked characteristics, I am not aware that
even M. Viollet-le Due is dogmatic when it comes to ascrib-
ing the work of the great French cathedrals to this or that
master-mind.
Even the debased Renaissance architecture, which it was
our fortune as colonists here in America to receive from the
Mother Country, debased through the era, still more debased
through English influence ; even in this architecture, which
our ancestors brought with them and which had at times be-
come so thoroughly formal as to admit of hardly any strength
of character, the personality of the men combined with their
environment resulted in many cases in the expression of cer-
tain individual peculiarities, which make it possible to dis-
tinguish the work of some of the earlier men apart from the
testimony of town records and family genealogy.
Strictly speaking, up to the beginning of the nineteenth
century, I know of no architects in America ; but, if various
records and histories speak truly, fully 100 years before this
time plans and elevations of buildings were prepared and
drawn for the distinct purpose of either imitating or improv-
ing upon English models, and the men who did this may be
divided into two types, the carpenter-architect and the ama-
teur architect.
Of the first type, the carpenter-architect, Asher Benjamin
is a good example, though his work was confined chiefly to
comparatively unimportant buildings. He began as a car-
penter working in Greenfield, Deerfield and the surrounding
Massachusetts towns. He published a book at Greenfield
of the "simple and practical" type; then he went to Boston,
practised there and published two or three more works^ on
architecture of a much more pretentious sort, and died com-
paratively a poor man, as all good architects should. Of
>See list of publications, page 105. ble to lay hands on the plans of the building, and these that are
New York City-hall. — At the time of publishing the other lie^e given should be considered in connection with Plates 30, 34-
drawings of John McComb's City-hall, New York, it was not possi- 37 ^"d 4'''. J^art II.
rt VlW- n-J
Second rioof Plan
THE MEN WHO DESIGNED THE OLD COLONIAL BUILDINGS.
103
the other example, the " amateur " architect, Thomas Jeffer-
son, from his station in life, is certainly the most notable ex-
ample. His work from his famous " four-inch wall " built in
a wavy line, so it should not tip over, to the schemes for the
University of Virginia are too well known to need more than
passing mention. Both of
the examples quoted are,
however, of rather a late
period. Of the seven-
teenth-century work the
greater part owes its archi-
tectural features to the
carpenter-architect and, I
am inclined to think, to
some book of plates. Of
course, many of these ear-
lier men had not even this
aid ; in fact, a good many
examples of the work in
districts more remote from
the larger towns show
plainly that the decorated
pediments over front doors,
cornices, and pilaster caps
are worked out from mem-
ory or tradition, for the exe-
ecution of the work is too
good to lay the peculiarities
of the finished product to
lack of ability to carry out
the desired effect.
There are even now, in
libraries, in garrets and
in the possession of a few
book-collectors, works pub-
lished, largely in England and some in America, during the
eighteenth century manifestly intended for the aid of the car-
penter and usually advertising on the title-page this fact in
convincing and often amusingly ingenuous language.
John Allis, born in Braintree in 1642, who married a
Gateway to the Thomas Cowles Place, Farntinitton, ConD.
[See Plate m, Part IX.]
West Springfield indicate that aesthetic effect was sought for
by the builder even though he was at the same time a
contractor. Much of the ornamental work he personally
executed.
At New London, John Elderkin, who came to that town
from Lynn in 1651, built
the meeting-house and the
parsonage and probably
was called upon to aid in
the designing of many of
the older houses in South-
eastern Connecticut. Old
account-books, church
records and journals men-
tion these earlier men al-
most invariably as builders.
At times the church com-
mittees give directions,
more or less explicit, as to
the architectural style
which the building shall fol-
low, usually a copy of some
building of greater or less
notoriety.
Richard Munday built
the Town-hall at Newport
in 1783. John Smibert is
responsible for Faneuil
Hall, in Boston. Peter
Banner did the Park Street
Church in Boston, and at
the head probably of these
men stands Peter Harrison,
who undoubtedly had re-
ceived in England more or
less of a technical education in architecture. He is said to
have been of assistance to Sir John Vanbrugh and a pupil
of James Gibbs's, and his admirers feel that he should be
placed in a different rank from the other men of his time.
Whether he derived his income solely from the making of
House in Providence, R. I.
widow and had eleven children and who came to Hatfield
from Springfield in i66i, is one of the earliest of these car-
penter-architects of whom I have been able to find any record.
He designed the first church in West Springfield, built in
1668, and the churches in Hatfield and in Hadley. I say he
designed them, for the records of the old First Church in
House on Benefit Street, Providence, R. I.
plans or not, I do not know. Unless he did I see no reason
why he should not be classed with the amateur architects or
the carpenter-architects.
In New York, one McBean, who lived in New Brunswick,
N. J., designed in 1764 St. Paul's Chapel. It is possible
that he was a pupil of Gibbs's, but it is more probable that
ro4
THE GEORGIAN' PERIOD.
drawings of Gibbs's work furnished him with his inspiration.
In Farmington, Conn., Judah Woodruff, a man prominent in
the town affairs, was the leading builder of Western Connec-
ticut. He designed the church at Farmington, which, by the
way, is a free copy of the one in Wethersfield. He designed
and built a dozen of the fine old houses of which Farmington
now is justly proud, and he,
like John Allis, of Hatfield,
executed much of his own
designing, the capitals of
the pulpit and an elabo-
rately carved sounding-
board having been done
by his own hand. (Some
of the best Colonial fes-
toons decorating a window-
cap that I ever saw, by the
way, a lady in Old Hadley
told me "grandpa" had
himself cut out with a jack-
knife.)
Capt. Isaac Damon, of
Northampton, who belongs
to a rather later period,
designed and built cer-
tainly a half dozen
churches, two or three
court-houses and his fame
as a bridge designer and builder in the early part of this
century reached far beyond New England.
However, it must be confessed that the larger share of
glory belongs to the men classed as amateur architects.
Probably they are not amateurs in a strict sense of the word,
for many of them received pay for their services ; on the
other hand, the designing of buildings was an avocation
rather than a vocation. To this class of men belongs Joseph
Brown, of Providence, born in 1733. He was a merchant
Rear View; First Baptist Church, Providence, R. I. [i745-]
forms of architecture." Another of the Providence amateurs
was John Greene, born in Rhode Island in 1777. He de-
signed the First Congregational Meeting-house, the Episcopal
and the First Universalist Churches, and the well-meant res-
toration in one of these churches along in the middle of the
nineteenth century so injured the church in his eyes that he
never again attended it.
In Philadelphia, Dr.
John Kearsley was the ar-
chitect of St. Bartholo-
mew's Church, which was
built in 1727, and to An-
drew Hamilton is ascribed
Independence Hall, though
authorities differ as to this
latter building. Watson's
"Annals of Philadelphia "
gives Dr. Kearsley the
credit for this as well as
for Christ Church. Evi-
dently Kearsley and Ham-
ilton were both on the
Building Committee for
the Hall, and it is probable
that Hamilton's plan was
used. The latter was edu-
cated in London and was a
proiegi of William Penn's
and held several high offices in the Province. He died in 1741.
To Thomas Jefferson is ascribed the University of Vir-
ginia and several of the more prominent Virginia mansions,
including his own house at Monticello, and he collaborated
with Clarissault, a French architect, on the Capitol Building
at Richmond.
With John McComb, born in 1763, who died in 1853, and
whose work includes the City-hall in New York and St.
John's Church, built at the beginning of this century, begins
^^^^ '?M^-v^... : -i- ~;:.~^..v. ^^^^|
B WH^^'Z-r'A
M
■■■ 1H
Interior of the First Baptist Chiircli, Providence, R. I.
and grew rich enough to be independent and then he indulged
his natural taste for science. He was particularly interested
in electricity and mechanics. He was a member of the
American Academy of Arts and Sciences and a trustee of
Brown University, and in 1775 he designed the First Baptist
Church, still standing in Providence, and his own house, since
destroyed, which 35 years ago was occupied by the Provi-
dence Bank.' He was sent in 1774 with Mr. Hammond, by
the church, to Boston " in order to view the different churches
and make a memoranda of their several dimensions and
a period that may be said to deal with the modern archi-
tects — Bulfinch, L'Enfant, Latrobe. The works and lives
of these men are well known and they are hardly more than
a generation removed from our own.
What training or education the American architects of
the eighteenth century may have had, I do not know, as I
have been unable to find any clear evidences that any of
them worked with, or were apprenticed to, English architects.
In many cases this has seemed probable and several of
' Plate 39. Part XII.
THE MEN WHO DESIGNED THE OLD COLONIAL BUILDINGS.
105
the more prominent men mentioned are said to have been
assistants to some of the better known English architects?
As I have said above, it seems to me much more probable
that most of the inspiration came through the published
works which were to a considerable extent imported from
England, and I have appended a short list* of some of these
works. There are, doubtless, a good many others of which
I do not know, and I do know that the books in the list are
to be found quite generally in New England, sometimes in
public libraries and sometimes in private families where they
have been kept for a hundred years, or since their publication.
There are in the list a very few books published in this
country and it would be interesting if some one better fitted
than myself could make a much fuller catalogue of these
earliest American works on architecture.
George Clarence Gardner.
A FEW IDENTIFIED BUILDINGS.
[The dates merely approximate
Allys, John [1665-1700].
Churches in West Springfield, Hatfield and Hadley, Mass.
Ames, John [1814].
Churches at Ashfield and Northboro [.'J, Mass.
Benjamin, Asher [1790].
Carew House, Springfield ; HoUister House, Greenfield ;
Alexander House, Springfield ; West Church, Boston ;
Colton House, Agawam. All in Massachusetts.
Banner, Peter [18 io].
Park Street Church, Boston, Mass.
Brown, Joseph [1775].
First Baptist Church; Providence Bank, Providence, R.I.
BtJLFiNCH, Charles.
State-house, Boston, Mass., 1795 ; State-house, Augusta,
Me., 1832; Court-house, Worcester, Mass., 1801 ; Couit-
house, Cambridge, Mass., 1805 ; State Prison, Charles-
town, Mass., 1804; Massachusetts General Hospital,
Boston, Mass., 1818; University Hall, Cambridge,
Mass., 1814; New North Church, Boston, 1804; Meet-
ing-houses at Pittsfield, Weymouth, Taunton and Lan-
caster, Mass., and Peterboro, N. H., and many other
buildings not now standing.
Damon, Isaac [1804].
First Church in Northampton ; First Church in Spring-
field; Church in Pittsfield; Court-house in Pittsfield;
Court-house in Lenox; North Church in Ware. All in
Massachusetts. Bridges across the Connecticut at
Charlestown, N. H., Springfield and Chicopee ; and
across the Penobscot, Hudson and Ohio Rivers.
Elderkin, John [1660].
First Church and Parsonage, New London, Conn.
Greene, John [i8i4(?)].
First Congregational, Episcopal and First Universalist
Churches, Providence, R. I.
Hamilton, Andrew [1735].
Independence Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.
Hooker, Philip [1813].
Boys' Academy, Albany, N. Y.
the time of the designer's activity.]
Harrison, Peter [1760].
Christ Church, Cambridge ; Town Market, Redwood
Library and Jewish Synagogue, Newport, R. I.
HoADLEV, David [1812].
North Church, New Haven, Conn.
Jefferson, Thomas.
University of Virginia and " Monticello," Virginia.
Johnson, Ebenezer [1815].
United Church, New Haven, Conn.
Kearsley, Dr. John [1727].
St. Bartholomew's and Christ Church, Philadelphia, Pa.
Munday, Richard [1783].
Town-hall, Newport, R. I.
McBean, [1764].
St. Paul's Chapel, New York.
McComb, John [1803-15].
St. John's Chapel and City-hall, New York, N. Y.
McIntire, Samuel [1806].
South Church, Salem, Mass.
Pell, Edward [1721].
North Church, Hanover Street, Boston, Mass.
Rhodes, Samuel [i77o(?)].
Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa.
Smibert, John [1742].
Fanueil Hall, Boston, Mass.
Smith, Robert.
Carpenters' Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.
Spratz, Wm. [1776-78].
Deming House. Litchfield, Conn., and Cowles House,
Farmington, Conn.
Twelves, Robert [1730].
South Church, Boston, Mass.
Woodruff, Judah [1769-90].
Gay House, Congregational Church, Samuel Cowles
House, Major Hooker House, Wm. Whitman House,
Romanta Norton House. All in Farmington, Conn.
♦BOOKS USED BY THE EARLY ARCHITECTS.
Adams, R. & S. ^' IVorks in Architeclure." 1773-1822.
Benjamin, A., ANn Kavnkrd, V>. '• Thi American Builder's Com-
panion" or a new system of architecture. 44 I'lates. Boston, 1806.
Benjamin, Asher. '^The Rudiments 0/ Architecture." Boston,
First Edition, 1814; Second' Edition, 1S20. " Ifand hoot of Architect-
ure." Boston, 1834. Country Builder's Assist,! at" Greentield, 1796.
Campbell, C. "Vitnnius Britannicus." London, 1715-25.
" The Builder's Dictionary, or Gentleman's and Architect's Compan-
ion." 2 Volumes, 33 Plates. Ixjndon, 1734.
(JiBBS, J. "Rules for drawins; the Several Parts of Architecture."
I>ondon, 1753.
JoNF.s, I. "Designs consisting of Plans and Elevations for Public
and Private Buildini;s." Published by W. Kent. London, 1770.
Jones, L, AND OTHERS. " Designs published by IVare, /." London,
1756.
Langi.f.V, B. " The City and Country Builder's and IVoriman's
Treasury of Designs" or the art of drawing and working the ornamental
parts of architecture. 200 I'lates. Ixindon, I75<>.
Langi.f.V, B. & T. ■■• Builder's Jewel." London, 1763.
Langi.ky, T. •■ Builder's Jewel." No date.
Norman, J. " The Town and Country Builder's Assistant" etc., By
a lover of architecture. 59 I'lates. Boston. 1786.
Pain, William. " The Practical Builder, or Worktnan s General
Assistant," Vi'ith Plans and Elevations of Gentlemc-n's and harm-houses.
Barns, etc. The Fourth Edition, 83 Plates. Boston, 1792.
SoANE, Sir J. '• Sietches in Architecture," containing plans and
elevations of cottages, villas and other useful buildings. 52 Plates-
London, 1793.
Swan, A. "The British Architect or Builder's Treasury of .Stair-
cases, etc." 60 Plates. London, 1745.
The Greek Revival and Some Other Things.
SOME reviewers of this work have expressed the belief
that its title ou;^ht to have been " The Georgian
Style" and not the, as they maintain, rather mislead-
ing title that was actually adopted. If it had been
the intention to confine the enquiry to the Free-Classic work
commonly known in this country as Old Colonial and in
England as Georgian, the name they suggest would have
been fitting enough, but, as the enquiry was to have a
broader scope, a more comprehensive title was desirable,
and the one chosen, covering, as it does, the century or so be-
tween the crowning of the first English George and the death
" Wyck," an interesting Colonial building in Germantown,
was built for a Welsh owner, and there are others. But the
influence of this branch of the Celtic family is shown in
the prevailing liking for stone buildings and, particularly,
in the abundant use of dormers and gables with roofs at
forty-five degrees, so abundant in modern work in the out-
skirts of Philadelphia.
The result of this scheme of procedure has been that
there has been brought to the attention of the reader
the fact that there are several distinct types of buildings
existing and still exerting their influence in different parts
^.^^■g^i^^^L^:^-. -
'■^r^^^
0\^7Ao-numcnlt cjf the ll^^-v61ufejonmy -Period. .
The old ^owtler To-wer. Somerv1IlleT7^ai.S3c
of the last one [17 14-1827], afforded the latitude that was
sought and at the same time indicated that work in the Geor-
gian style was, after all, the chief consideration. Because of
this broader title it has been possible to examine not only the
vernacular work of the ingenuous early builder, often pictur-
esque and not seldom of much significance, but as well, in some
slight way, the work of the Dutch, Swedes, Germans, and to
hint that the work of the French and Spanish settlers, which
had in it hardly a trace of the influence of the Georgian style
proper was, nevertheless, characteristic and interesting.
With more space and time, it would have been interestino-
to show how distinct an influence on I'ennsylvania architect-
ure the building traditions of the Welsh immigrants had had.
106
of the country, types which can hardly withstand much
longer the levelling influence of the more easy intercommu-
nication of modern days and the subtile undermining of
traditionary methods by the fashion of the hour.
In one particular the unstated programme had to be
varied : it was distinctly the purpose to eschew and avoid
the buildings erected under the influence of the Greek Re-
vival ; but a fuller consideration of the work in the South
showed that, if work carried out under the influence of the
Greek Revival were to be left out of the examination, a very
considerable quantity of interesting buildings, thoroughly
THE GREEK REVIVAL AND SOME OTHER THINGS
107
typical of the Southern States and forming a very character-
istic group in our heterogeneous architecture, would have to
go without description and illustration, and to omit these
seemed liked introducing at the last moment an unnecessary
rigidity into a very elastic programme. For these reasons
the work of the post-Georgian period is exhibited with some
freedom in these closing pages. Moreover, while the revived
interest in Grecian forms seems to have been felt earlier in
the South than at the North, it was not, as a cult, honored
with the same strict observance that Northern designers
yielded. The disease, to call it so, was of rather a mild
type, though of long persistence, and the result is that, while
there are to be found here and there a temple-fronted house
such as is found in the North in multitudes, the greater part
of the buildings which show the influence of Greek forms
show them, not bookishly pure, as in the North, but blended
with the Free-Classic of
Georgian work and the
vernacular of the native
builder. The amusing
liberties that have been
taken with the accepted
parts and proportions of
the orders which are to be
noted in almost any speci-
men of Southern work are
to be attributed partly to
the employment of slave
labor and partly to that il-
literacy of the white me-
chanic-class in the South
which made them less
faithful students of such
books and drawings as
came in their way.
That the Greek move-
ment should have begun
earlier in the South — if it
did really begin earlier —
than in the North is en-
tirely reasonable. The
Southern planter travelled
abroad more persistently
and in greater numbers
than did the members of
the merchant and manu-
facturing classes of the
Northern States. Climatic change was more frequently
desirable, for one thing, and for another, as the planter class
were largely mere spenders of income, the real business of
tiieir estates being managed by factors and overseers, they
had both the idle time and the accumulated income to spend
in travel. In this way they became cognizant of what was
the newest fashion in architecture, and, returning home, had
their next buildings designed in the new mode — as they re-
membered it. The Northerner, on the other hand, heard of
the Greek Revival mainly by correspondence and obtained
his data from imported books, which his skilled mechanics
were able to follow accurately and textually, and the build-
ings that were created through their aid, having the pedantic
' Latrobe, Henjamix. — Amongst the private'houses in Wash-
ington built by Latrobe are the Decatur house, on Lafayette
Square, and tlie Van Ness house, now a drinking-resort for
negroes, at the foot of Seventeenth St.
•Stricklamj, William. — -Born in Philadelphia, 17S7.
Maritime Exchange, Philadelphia, Pa. Wni. Strickland, Architect.
Stiffness that was to be expected, merely emphasized the
fact that a Greek temple was never designed to give home-
like and appropriate surroundings for English or American
men and women of the nineteenth century.
The Southern designers, whether amateur or professional,
on the other hand, succeeded in making a fairly individual
and interesting " blend " of Greek and Free-Classic [Roman]
forms, which finally crystallized into a formula, according to
which a large number of plantation-houses — to which, be-
cause of their landscape setting and their surroundings, the
adjectives "elegant" and "lordly" are not at all inappli-
cable— were built, not only in the first quarter of the last
century, but up to the time when building undertakings of
all kinds came to an end with the beginning of the Civil
War.
Who designed these houses is not likely to be known.
Jefferson, of course, had
an influence, and so too
did Dr. Thornton and Dr.
Kearsley, and it is only
probable that some of the
men who sent in designs
for the Capitol at Wash-
ington, as Mclntire, Dobie,
Diamond, Lamphire, Blod-
gett, Mayo and others,
men, so far as we know, of
no great ability, may have
been capable of doing in
private work something
better than they suggested
for the nation's chief build-
ing; some at least had
training and were in some
degree practitioners of ar-
chitecture. Hoban, at any
rate, is known to have prac-
tised in Charleston before
he came to Washington to
do the " White House," and
it is known that it was a
cause of complaint against
some of the early architects
connected with the Capitol
that they spent time in
working for private clients
that should have been de-
voted to the Government. It is doubtful if Bulfinch's influ-
ence ever extended farther South than Baltimore and Wash-
ington ; but Ithiel Towne built the State-house for North
Carolina, and that would give him an introduction to planters
who were within visiting distance of the State capital ; and
we fancy that if Latrobe's^ drawings should be examined it
would be found that he had not a few clients in the South.
McComb, too, a man whose work is less known than ought
to be the case, and who doubtless built some of the houses
along the Hudson, may well have had Southern clients, and
where, later, the Greek influence is very marked, Strickland, -
whose Maritime Exchange in Philadelphia is a striking piece
of work, may well have had a hand in it. But it is not to be
Studied architecture under Benjamin Latrobe. Died in 1854.
His last work was the State-house at Nashville, Tenn., unfinished
at the time of his death. Besides the Maritime Exchange, in
Philadelphia, in whicli city most of his work lies, he was the
architect of the Mint, the Naval Asylum and the old Masonic
Hall.
io8
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
assumed that trained skill was always employed. Americans
are good imitators, and a model to set the fashion for the
local mechanic was all that was needed for a neighborhood.
The variations in the conditions of the problem and the pas-
sion for exercising the native inventive faculties were enough
to prevent the later buildings from being mere textual copies.
The effect of the existence of a type or, it may be, merely
of a pattern, or, again, the mere presence of a single individual
in a neighborhood, is interestingly shown in the little decayed
town of Duxbury, Mass., where in the Waterman house we
came upon a mantelpiece^ which was not only interesting at
first sight, but seemed to be absolutely unique. Further in-
that American work was more or less tinctured with the
coming style long before the revival broke upon us with full
force. The architects of the present day are so possessed
with the belief in their own unimpeachable value in and to
the world of art that they seem blind to the fact that in this
country there were architects before them ; that these well-
proportioned and delicately detailed mansions, which men and
women of feeling now delight in, are the certain evidence of
the existence of architects quite as truly artists as any of the
architects of to-day whose income may be ten times as great.
The fact that these honored buildings are, generally speak-
ing, the work of nameless men is but a reminder that, for all
vestigation proved, however, that there were other houses in
the town in whose mantels the novel treatment of pilaster and
frieze was repeated : it was a common local form, common,
perhaps, to other towns on the Cape, but not found else-
where.
Stuart and Revett's first book was published, in parts, be-
tween 1762 and 1816, and, as many Southern gentlemen
besides Jefferson left with their book-dealers in London and
Paris orders to send them with their yearly or semi-annual
supplies any books that were attracting notice, it is possible
M'Iate42, Part XII.
"" Georgian Architecture in Dtiblin " .• Vol. II, page io6.
' HoBAN, James. — Born in Kilkenny County, Ireland, about
1762. Educated in Dublin. Emigrated to Charleston, S. C, in
1 78-. Designed the .State-house at Columbia, .S. C. (since burned).
his braggadocio, the fashionable architect of the hour will
himself be unknown to posterity and his name never asso-
ciated with some possibly good and delicate piece of work of
his that may have endured the wear and tear of ages.
In an earlierpaper" has been shown some part of the large
amount of interesting Georgian work that is to be found
in Dublin, and, as it was in Dublin that James Hoban ' ac-
quired his training, it is but natural that the work he designed
in this country should seem first-cousins to that by which his
susceptible early years were surrounded. Hoban was one
Introduced to General Washington by Governor Laurens, of
South Carolina. Won the competition for the President's man-
sion, and afterwards was always in Government employ — as
Superintendent of the Capitol, In.spector of Government Work,
Surveyor of Public Buildings. He died in 1831.
THE GREEK REVIVAL AND SOME OTHER THINGS.
109
of the first of the many Irishmen who have done much to Alpin family, built on the Savannah River, near Savannah,
elevate the intellectual character of this country, just as his about 1830, and that, in turn, has what might almost be
more humble countrymen have done much to improve its called a repetend in the McAlpin house'' in Savannah itself,
OL»Hoi/;e^t Brent fvJie
Pnfvce Wlli^mfo Va
iXl 1:1 !■' 'TTt
-fifL
physical conditions. His name, as long as the "White House"
at Washington stands, will be known to, and remembered by,
intelligent enquirers, a!-
though it may not have as
wide a popular repute as
Major L'Enfant's,' who, if
his fame had depended on
Robert Morris's uncom-
pleted house, instead of
upon his plan for the city
of Washington, would have
hardly had a happier fate
than has befallen the de-
signers of some of the
admirable work of the
eighteenth century.
Equally admirable in
their way, in spite of their
belonging so pronouncedly
to the Greek school and to
the nineteenth century, are
four houses which may
have been designed by the
same hand in spite of their
being so widely separated
as Nashville and Savan-
nah. Perhaps there was a
blood-tie between the McAlpins of Savannah and Andrew
Jackson, perhaps it is only a case of hero-worship, but, quite
as likely, it is a case where
inspiration and suggestion
originated with the architect.
In any case "Hermitage,"^
the well-known home of An-
drew Jackson, the shrine of
many a Democratic pilgrim-
age, has a namesake in the
"Hermitage"* of the Mc-
1 1
m
JriMiJ
HSSSS^^
fiip
.11 n
IMH
|i|^''i ll'llf !|'|'||i|i'|iii"t ■itttyt'trn-'Yft
— > 1 ■ ■ ^
''•isaA'" '
Chetwood House, East Jersey Street, Elizabeth, N. J.
while an even closer likeness is found in the house ° of James
K. Polk at Nashville." It is true that the porch of Presi-
dent Polk's house is distyle
in antis, while the " Her-
mitage " on the Savannah
River has a tetrastyle por-
tico, but the order is the
same, and the general air
of sober understanding
that each structure betrays
certainly suggests that one
was directly inspired from
the other, even if different
architects were employed
on the two mansions. In
both of these houses, and
also in the McAlpin city-
house, the architect has
used the order of the
Temple of the Winds at
Athens, and at Nashville,
where the columns are set
in antis, the portico has a
somewhat Egyptian air,
which is well carried out by
the broad wall-spaces
about it. It is rather sin-
gular that with such good examples — for the capital of the
Temple of the Winds is a very graceful one — within reach,
and widely known because of
the many visitors to General
Jackson's house, this order
was not more frequently
used. One would think that
the general refinement of the
Colonial work would have led
to an appreciation of the
elegance of this particular
Old Vrou^ht IronwSrK
1 L'ExFANT. — Besides pre-
paring the design for Robert
Morris's great house, L'Enfant
was the architect of a house in
Philadelphia, built for Nichol-
son, Morris's partner and also
Treasurer of the State of I'enn-
sylvania. The Nicholson
house, which cost f 50,000, has recendy been sold for use as a
Jewish Orphanage.
*"The Hkkmitaof," Nashvii.lk, Te.sx. — (leneral Jackson
built this house in 1S19. It was, liowever, partially burned in
1S35, butwas rebuilt in that and the following year. It is now
in the charge of the Ladies' Hermitage Association and is essen-
iVovTUenc*, "?-!■
tially a musc-uin of Jacksoniana.
(ieneral Jackson, who died in
the liouse, was, after the fashion
of the day, buried in the front
yard. Plate 44, Part XII.
s Plates 43-44, Part XII.
* See cut, page 95.
'TtiE Poi.K Maxsiox. — This house was not built for, but pur-
chased by. President Polk from the Dickson family, to tlie descend-
ants of wliicli tlie jjroperty has now reverted. President Polk's
tomb, also, stands in the yard.
opiate 43, Part XII.
no
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
order, but for some reasons its merits were disregarded and the shadow effect is lost and no proper drip is formed,
fashion turned in the direction of the more elaborate and far Even in the case of such a mansion as " Arlington," best
less satisfactory order of the
Choragic Monument of Lysi-
crates, which seems to have
been a general favorite. In
the Jonathan Childs house,
Rochester, N. Y., we find the
capital of this order reproduced
with great exactness, while in
certain cases in the South we
have noted that certain simpli-
fications— not always the
same — have been introduced,
which seem to show that either
the designer felt he was exer-
cising a permissible license or
else that the workmen were not as well skilled in following
drawings as were the mechanics of the Northern States,
The latter is prob-
ably the most plausi-
ble explanation, for
on every side we
find little ungram-
matical variations
which could hardly
have been inten-
tional on the part of
a competent de-
signer, but are ob-
viously the over-
sights that an unlet-
tered copyist or an
unskilled mechanic
would be guilty of.
Thus, we find
Roman Doric bases
needlessly obtrud-
ing themselves be-
neath a Grecian Doric shaft where no base at all was needed,
and, again, a Grecian Doric shaft crowned simply by a square
abacus with no echinus below
it, this shaft, too, setting upon
a square plinth of the same
size and thickness as the abacus
at the top so that the column
might be turned end for end
without altering the effect —
and it is curious that the effect
is really very Grecian, after all.
In another case* where the
masonry shaft was heavily
coated with stucco — quite after
the Grecian manner — the
mason, in endeavoring to indi-
cate the hypotrachelium, or
gorgerin, or whatever is the
right name for the incised lines
which in the Greek Doric play
somewhat the part that the
astragal plays in the Roman
orders, made a very broad in-
Sproull Homestead, near Cartersville, Ga.
Etowah Heights/* Etowah River, Ca.
known now as the home of
General Robert K. Lee, but
originally built, in 1802, by
George Washington Parke
Custis, the grandson of Martha
Washington, a building^ de-
signed with much care and in-
tended, so far as the portico
goes, to repeat the Temple of
Theseus at Athens, we find that
the designer did not thoroughly
know the style. It is true that
the portico is, like its original's,
hexastyle and the ponderous
shafts have no bases, but rest
properly on a simple stylobate ; but it is equally true that
the shafts have no cannellations [the dictionaries do not
recognize this word,
^JTT] but it is just as good
and useful as the
verb " cannelate "
that they do admit],
and the frieze has
been given Roman
in place of Grecian
t r igl yphs. It is
such little gram-
matical slips as
these that, although
they make the purist
sniff scornfully,
really add to the
interest of the
Southern work, for
it is really only by
taking liberties with
time-hallowed pre-
cept and established practice that changes are made and im-
provements, possibly, brought about. There is no more pro-
priety for scorning the authors
of such vagaries as these than
there is reason for condemning
them for taking liberties with
the proportions of their orders,
and recklessly disregarding
Vignola's admonitions that a
Corinthian column should have
only ten diameters for its height.
The Southern planter needed
verandas, covered ones, and
partly for economy's sake and
more because it was the fashion
of the hour wanted his porticos
to protect two stories, but when
he found that if he did what
Vignola told him to do, the
floor-space would be needlessly
taken up by huge shafts that
really supported no weight at
all, and that his house would
3^^r-
f-:-^7^ '^^^
Veranda of the Sproull Homestead, near Cartersville, Ga.
cision all around the shaft with the point of his trowel, look more like a temple than a house, he decided to give his
but unfortunately held its blade the wrong way, so that columns just such proportions as suited his problem, no
'See cut of IlanscU House, Kosewcll, Ga., page 96.
Tlate 20, Part XII.
THE GREEK REVIVAL AND SOME OTHER THINGS.
1 1 1
i,
i
^f^' f*
•■: 1 ^
mm.
■Mifspmiaiiii^^a
»'-
" -^^L^^d. w Garden, near Au^iusta, Ga ^
matter what the books said. So if, as at " Etowah Heights," ticularly attractive, because it so clearly suggests quiet do-
on the Etowah River, Georgia, the place of the Stovall-SIiell-
man families, we find columns of great attenuation, we ftel
merely that the practical problem of daily needs has been
solved. Here at " Etowah Heights " another difficulty was
overcome, with some success and much ingenuity. It was ob-
vious that it would never do to crown such lofty shafts with
a simple Doric capital, the
height demanded at least
Corinthian treatment ; and
evidently the working out
of a Corinthian cap was
beyond the capacity of any
of the workmen. But a
satisfactory compromise
was reached by building a
bell, octagonal in plan, out
of a series of mouldings
and crowning them all with
a square abacus. The re-
sult is a capital that at a
distance serves well enough
as a Corinthian cap, while
it is only a near view that
brings to light that it is an
architectural hybrid, sired
by Corinthian, dammed by Perpendicular. It is certainly an
ingenious solution and one that serves a capital purpose.
It is such pieces of architectural nanett that make
much of the Southern work interesting, but they mark, too,
a falling away in delicacy of perception from the work that
was done in the eighteenth century along the banks of the
Virginia rivers. It is almost certain that one could not
find anywhere in Virginia such a florid piece of work as
" Belle Grove,"' on the banks of the Mississippi, in Iberville
Parish, La., the home of an obviously wealthy sugar-planter,
built, it is said, "shortly after
the Revolution." Anything
more unlike what one's pre-
conception of what a sugar-
planter's house of those days
might be expected to look like
could hardly be encountered.
For, in truth, the typical "plan-
ter's house of that region, of
direct West Indian and, so,
Spanish derivation, is to be
found in such houses as
" Home Place," " in St. Charles
Parish, La., the home of tiie
Haydel family, and " Beau-
voir,''* at Biloxi, Miss., long
the home of Jefferson Davis,
and now transferred to the
ownership of the Sons of Con-
federate Veterans, to be maintained as a home for indigent
Confederate soldiers. This type of one-story house is par-
Fairfax County Court-house, Fairfax, Va,
M'late 1 6, I'art .\II.
» Plate 3, Part XII.
'Plate 20, Part XII.
•Plate 4, Part XII.
* Plate 14, Part XII.
20, Part .\1I. 6 Plate 15, Part XII.
' •' Meadow Garden " is now preserved by the Walton Memorial
Association as a memorial of Georj^e Walton, a si<;iier of the
Declaration of Independence, who in tlie cider part of the sim])Ie
structure entertained George Washington in 1791.
» CoURT-Housi s. — Fairfax County Court-house, in Fairfax,
Va., is a rather typical puljlic building of the pre-RevoIutionary
mesticity, and not the pomp and parade to be looked for in
houses whose exteriors declare that they contain abundant
guest-chambers and elaborate rooms of ceremony. Yet, that
the assurance of a spacious welcome, as it were, may be in-
dicated without sacrificing the promise of domestic comfort
is satisfactorily proved by such houses as " Dunleith," ■* built
early in the last century by
General Dahlgren, near
Natchez, Miss. That
" Dunleith " is the legiti-
mate development of the
type expressed by " Beau-
voir"is obvious at a glance,
and the house, in spite of
the presence of the unfortu-
nate dormer windows,
added by a later owner, is
a very perfect and satis-
factory specimen of the
home of a wealthy planter
in the far South. It is in-
teresting, too, as a " rever-
sion to type," expressing, as
it does, a complete revolt
against the Greek in-
fluence : it comes much nearer achieving the gracility of
the real Colonial work than does " Montebello," ^ the home
of the Shields family, which also stands near Natchez, or
" Burnside,"" a Louisiana sugar-planter's house on the banks
of the Mississippi, built by a Colonel Preston of South
Carolina. These three mansions have about as much dig-
nity, propriety and real architectural character as any 01 e
could desire, if one consents to accept the second-story
galleries as domestic necessities, and hence, as they satisfy
real requirement, that they have sufficient architectural pro-
priety to escape challenge for
illiteracy. It is to be noted
that the owner of "Dunleiih"
seems to have had misgivings
on this head, and in place of
using the usual wooden balus-
trade for the upper-gallery rail-
ing, has sought not to mar
the effect of his colonnades
by using light iron railings,
painted black so as to be
practically invisible from a dis-
tance. The floors of such
upper galleries do not of con-
structive necessity cut athwart
the columns, for the sake of
getting a bearing on them ;
the floors were carried out
to the columns because of the
desire to secure more floor-space. The proof of this is to be
found in those houses which have the second-story gallery
period, but it is more interesting because of its association with
the Civil War, as it was in the field of military operations, and
was at times in the possession of tlie Federal troops, and, again,
in the occupancy of tlie Confederates. An attenijn lias recently
been made to have it transformed into an historical museum, with
Georije Washington's will as its cliiefest treasure.
Tlie Court-liouse at Cliester, Pa., which was built in 1724, has
now a misleading air of quaintness, since tlie jiresent spirelet-
crowned tower, wliich gives the building its character, is a modern
atfair and replaces the original belfry.
112
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
extending to hardly more than half the width of the lower
one, the floor being supported by a system of concealed
cantilevers, as in the case of the Sproull house,' nearCarters-
ville, Ga., a house which is interesting because of being one
of the comparatively small number where the Ionic order
is used.
While the West Indian type of house with its flattish hip-
roof is certainly distinctive of Southern architecture, there is
a variation of the normal cottage type, common to all parts
of the country, which is also distinctively Southern. In
these alliance is made between the rather steep pitched
roofs and the supporting columns — of often needless robust-
ness— in so natural a manner that no protest is elicited. A
perfect specimen of this class was " Concord," before it was
destroyed ; but there are others built at various dates, but
all belonging to the same species. Mrs. Wilson's house,
" Ashlands,"- near Mobile, Ala., is merely one of the class
where due regard for the precedents of the type has been ob-
served. " Inglehurste,"' ^
however, built near Macon,
Ga., early in the nineteenth
century, shows how the
passion for columnar effects
has overstepped propriety.
Thanks to the luxuriant
grace of plants and vines,
the fact that these heavy
brick piers nowhere sup-
port anything but a light
wooden roof is well dis-
guised, and one is aware
merely of a delightfully
homelike and picturesque
effect. This house is ab-
solutely native of the soil ;
built with timber grown
upon and bricks burned
upon the place by the labor of slaves, it is because of these
things all the more cherished by its owners and regarded
with interest by strangers.
One of the most interesting houses to be found in the South
is " Edgewood," * near Edgefield, S. C, interesting because it
resumes in itself almost all of the characteristics to which
attention has been directed ; and tha fact that they are shown
in this house, once the home of Governor Francis W.
Pickens,^ in a somewhat debased form, seems to indicate that
it was recognized tiiat the full expression of the type-form had
been reached. Here we have a modest structure, intended for
use as an ordinary dwelling, rambling over the ground with
true Southern disregard of space till the front spans a length
of full forty yards. In the elevation of the first floor above
the ground and the absence of rooms at the ground level, we
find a reminder of West Indian derivation, while the division
into main-house, wing-pavilions and connecting-galleries is
distinctly marked. That the architecture is Colonial is told
not only by the attempted, and to a good degree successful,
refinement of the mouldings of the main portico and the
decoration of the front of the raking cornice, but most of all
by the artistic feeling that dictated the cutting away of the
' See cut, pajje i lo.
3 Plate II, i'art X!I.
■^ Plate 13, I'art XII.
* Plates 10-12, Plates XII.
'Governor of South Carolina during the Civil War, 1S61-65.
A very pleasant explanation is jjiven for the extreme lateral elonga-
tion of this house, an explanation which quite comports with the
courteous hospitality of the Southern gentleman. It is said that
architrave in a series of elliptical arches. In the flat pedi-
ments of the wing pavilions we find traces of the influence
of the Greek Revival, while in the caps and bases of the
columns of these pavilions we find the sort of naive imita-
tions of the proper forms that a colored carpenter might be
expected to produce. And then, over and beyond all, the
long and roomy veranda is provided as the prime desidera-
tum. The whole structure makes so charming and attrac-
tive a composition that one can afford to forget that in-
accuracies and imperfections of workmanship exist.
A very satisfactory knowledge of Colonial architecture
might be acquired through a study of the older collegiate
buildings of the country, more of which are standing than
is generally suspected. Besides the "academy" buildings
that are still to be found in many New England towns,
which, in type, do not vary much from the belfried court-
houses of the same date, there is a considerable number of
dormitories, chapels and halls that were built for the larger
institutions of learning that
give interesting lessons in
proportion and sobriety of
decorative treatment. Like
her older buildings, Har-
vard will probably always
cherish Bulfinch's "Univer-
sity Hall," and Rutgers
College, at New Bruns-
wick, N. J., will doubtless,
in the same way, preserve
" Queen's Building," de-
signed by John McComb.
William and Mary, at
Williamsburg, Va. ; St.
John's, at Annapolis ; the
University of Virginia, at
Charlottesville, and the
University of North Caro-
lina, at Chapel Hill, all these and others of the elder col-
leges have still in use and in good preservation many in-
teresting buildings which are true specimens of Old Colonial
architecture, and it would be interesting, some time, to group
them all together.
But, interesting as the later houses are, they are to be
regarded rather as marking the transition from the dignified
Colonial work to the utterly undignified eclectic work of the
present day. If there is any lesson to be drawn from the il-
lustrations in this publication it is that a too free use of
applied decorations can be as fatal to a fine piece of archi-
tecture as overdressing can be fatal to the asserted gentility
of a woman, and many a good design in the Colonial style
has in these latter days been made simply tawdry by the
mistaken application of moulded decorations in superabun-
dance. Generally speaking, the Northern designer in the
eighteenth century showed more reserve, a greater sympathy
with the style, a keener appreciation of delicacy than did his
Southern brother. To the writer's way of thinking, the much-
praised interiors of the Miles Brewton house, in Charleston,
are far less satisfactory than many interiors to be found in
Salem, Mass., Portsmouth, N. H., and Providence, R. I.
Governor Pickens could not sleep comfortably if he knew there
was a guest slieltering beneath his roof who had been obliged,
because of the presence of other guests, to put up with a rear
chamber; therefore, he built his house so that all members of the
household and all guests must have front rooms — there being no
back ones. The story is too pretty to be questioned.
THE GREEK REVIVAL AND SOME OTHER THINGS.
"3
Generally speaking, this too lavish use of applied decoration
is to be taken as a sign of the decadence, a proof that the
building was erected after, rather than before, the Revolu-
tion ; but that it is not always safe to rely on such an
inference is shown by the ceilings^ at " Kenmore," in
Fredericksburg, Va. If there ever was a case of over-
elaboration this is certainly one, and the observer might well
be excused for thinking
that the redundancy and
repetition, and, above all,
the geometrical quality of
the general composition,
proved satisfactorily that
the work and the building
were late in date. But
local legend satisfactorily
accounts for and excuses
this over-elaboration, and
the fact that " Kenmore,"
was built by Colonel Field-
ing Lewis to please his
wife, Betty, the only sister
of General Washington,
tends to prove that it be-
longs in time with the
group of notable Virginia
mansions on the James.
The story is that these
ceilings, overmantels, etc.,
are the work of certain Hessian prisoners of war wlio were
quartered in the house and probably were delighted to find
an agreeable occupation during their enforced idleness, and
probably welcomed the money, which was unquestionably
paid them, for their labor as a means of providing, possibly,
certain delicacies for their mess or warmer clothing for
winter wear. Since the mere occupation of idle hours was
their chief object, it was natural that the general scheme
accounted for, wliile the certain lack of refinement and
the geometrical quality of the design may be placed to the
credit of the Teutonic understanding of grace.
" Kenmore " itself has the appearance of being only a part
of an uncompleted whole, and considering the standing of
the family, it is likely that Colonel Lewis intended to build a
more elaborate house than this, and possibly the usual wing-
pavilions were to be built
later, giving the house
finally the general effect of
" Woodlawn," '^ near Mount
Vernon, designed by Dr.
Thornton,' and for Nellie
Custis when she married
Lawrence Lewis, the son
of Col. Fielding Lewis and
Washington's sister, Betty.
There is a certain simil-
arity between the two
houses, and because of it
we may surmise that " Ken-
more," too, may possibly
be one of Dr. Thornton's
houses, though it is, of
course, possible that Nellie
Custis knew all about the
house her father had
meant to build and so
urged Dr. Thornton to
make the home of her married life like that which her child-
hood's home might have been. Otherwise the heavy brick
arcade is a meaningless and expensive freak. The arcade
itself is unusual, as, with the exception of Mount Vernon,
we can recall no other instance of a Colonial house where
an arcade is introduced, although it was used in churches
and in public buildings, as at Hanover Court House, Fair-
fax Court House and others. But in houses the use of the
The Major Duncan House, Paris, Ky. [About irp\
should be so planned as to consume the greatest number of
hours' work, and thus the unneeded quantity is satisfactorily
> Plates 25-6, Part XII.
• Plates 20, 22-26, Part VL
•Thornton, Dr. William. — Born on the Island of Tortola,
W. I., 1 761. Educated in England and, in medicine, Scotland.
In 1793 moved to Washington, D. C, and there resided until liis
death in 1S2S. He was, in 1794,0110 of the Commissioners a])-
pointed by Washington to survey tlie District of Columbia, and
held the position until it was abolished in 1802. He later became
Superintendent of Patents, and lield tlie office up to the time of
" Federal Hill," Bardslown, Ky.* [1795-]
arcade is only approximated by now and then introducing
round arches in the porches, as at "Crewe Hall," Malvern
his death. In addition to his desijjn for tlie United States Capitol,
accepted April 15, 1793, he prepared a design for tlie i'resident's
Mansion. In tlie way of private practice as arcliitect, he desisjned
" Montpelier," Orange Co., \'a., for James Madison ; the " Octagon,
House," Washington, for Jolin Tayloc ; tlie "Tudor House,"
Georgetown, D. C, and a few olliers.
^The homestead of the Rowan family. Tlie song " Mv Old
Kentucky Home" was written in this liouse by .Stephen Collins
Foster.
114
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Hill, Va. ; " Gunston Hall," on the Potomac, " Mount Airy,"
on the Rappahannock, etc.
While, as a rule, the eighteenth-century Virginia man-
sions were built of brick or wood, some were built of stone,
as, for instance, the Hite
house, in Winchester, Va.,
and, the most noted example
of all, " Mount Airy," ' on
the Rappahannock, the
home of the Tayloes. Here
the portico has an arcade of
three arches, and the gal-
leries connecting the main
house with the wing pavil-
ions are semicircular in plan,
as are the similar galleries
at " Mount Vernon." Taken
in connection with its set-
ting and its formal garden,
" Mount Airy " is one of the
choicest specimens of Col-
onial architecture.
Stone was not infrequently
used elsewhere, particularly
in Pennsylvania, by the
Germans, and in the Major Duncan house, Paris, Ky., we
find an interesting example, first, because it is built of stone
The Rufus Greene Coach-house, Providence, R. 1.
acter shows how strong a hold the style had on the people
that, at that time, in a new settlement so far inland as
Paris, such a house should have been built. As might be
supposed, its forms and details are based on reminiscences
and so are somewhat sim-
plified and ungrammatical,
as might be expected
when neither designer nor
mechanic could drive
over to look at the next
house and see "just how
the thing ought to be done."
This house and " Federal
Hitt," at Bardstown, Ky.,^
give grounds for believing
that the Kentucky towns
along the Cumberland Road
are deserving of investiga-
tion by whoever next under-
takes to consider Colonial
architecture.
If one were to trust to in-
ferences and resemblances,
it might be proper to ven-
ture the supposition that
there should be included in the list of houses which were either
designed by Jefferson, or whose design was affected by his ad-
coated with rough-cast, and, next, because its Colonial char- vice, the very refined mansion ' known as " Woodlands " that
' I'lates 22-23, '''i''t ^II-
"See tut, page 1 13.
» I'lates I, 2S-30, Part XII.
* liy permission of Frank Cousins.
THE GREEK REVIVAL AND SOME OTHER THING S.
"5
(S^tfr't
now stands in Fairmount Park, Philadelphia. But there is
on the whole a more subtile indication of delicacy of feeling
on the part of the designer of " Woodlands " ' than is to
be found in " Monticello," " Jefferson's own house, or in
" Montpellier,"'' which, though designed for his friend James
Madison by Dr. Thor-
ton, was affected by
Jefferson's advice, so it
is best not to force the
facts, and we can but
regret that the author of
so good a piece of work
must remain nameless
till chance brings the
proper record to light.
The thoroughness with
which the designer
practised his calling is
shown by the evident
attention he paid to the
stable,*which, while un-
questionably merely a
stable, is none the less
surely a piece of architecture. In fact, the thesis that the
best of the Colonial work was designed by trained archi-
tects could be upheld
on the evidence of the
stables and out build-
ings attached to — in
a literal sense, often —
Colonial houses in
the Northern States :
witness this stable at
"Woodlands," the Nich-
ols stable* in Salem,
and a host of others.
It is useless to look for
work of the class in the
Southern States farther
South than Northern
Virginia, since the
milder climate de-
manded less substantial
protection for horses and cattle, and so did not compel
the attention of the designer to the same degree. Even
at "Mount Vernon" the
stables and carriage-houses
have a severely utilitarian
rather than architectural char-
acter.
The catholicity of taste and
the universality of knowledge
on the part of men of educa-
tion in those days is, per-
haps, enough to account for
the architectural quality of the
buildings erected at a time
when there were so few who
practised architecture as a
profession. Evidence of this
is found in the case of
Joseph Brown, of Providence,
an iron-founder and merchant, brother of one of the founders
The Mclntire Garrison, York, Me. [1623.]
Tbc Old Jail • York .Mair^ti - i65>-
of what is now Brown University, and himself one of the
trustees of the college and its Professor of Experimental
Philosophy. In association with James Sumner in 1774 he
designed the First Baptist Church ' in Providence, built
largely by the labor of Boston mechanics thrown out of
employment by the
closing of the Port of
Boston. Fie also de-
signed, in 1774, his own
house 'on South Main
Street, now occupied by
the Providence National
]5ank, a house whose
peculiar curved pedi-
ment, or gable, seems
to have been suggested
by the broad gambrel
roof, such as that to be
seen in a street nearby,
which was not uncom-
mon at the time. With
Stephen Hopkins he
designed and built the
Town Market-house, now the Board of Trade Buildino-
and besides these designed for his brother John the house
built in 1788 at the
corner of Power and
Benefit Streets, at pres-
ent known as the
Brown-Gammell house.'
This house it was our
purpose to illustrate as
the type of the Colonial
city house after the
style had reached its
fullest expression. Un-
fortunately, the estate
has recently changed
hands and, at the mo-
ment, the building is
surrounded wiih scaf-
. - ' folding, the new owner
having the purpose to
put the building into the most perfect repair and to restore
it absolutely to its original condition. This will not be a
difficult task, as the house
has always remained in the
use of descendants of John
Brown, people of taste, abun-
dant means, and a proper
respect for the work of their
ancestor.
The Brown-Gammell house
belongs to a class of city
house which once had its
congeners in Boston, and still
has them in Salem," Mass.,
Portsmouth, N. H., and
Annapolis," Md., but it is
rather distinctively a New
England type.
The name Gorgeana —
once .Agamenticus, and now York, Me., — and the fact that it
The Minot House, Concord, MasS'
» Plates 1,28-30, Part XII.
•Plate 21, Part XII.
• -See cut, page 1 14.
» Plates 8-1 1, Part IX.
< Plate 30, Part XII.
•Plate 4S, Part XII.
' Plate 39, Part XII.
» Plates 13, 16, Part VII.
8 Plates 37-38, Part XII.
"> See cut of Cliase house,
pa,i;e 59, Vol. II.
ii6
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
s sometimes miswritten " Georgiana " is not unlikely to lead
the enquirer into Old Colonial architecture to think that in-
vestigaiion in that quarter would be likely to bring to light
some treasure of Free-Classic work. But the place-name
and the place itself have nothing to do with the Georges and
their times, and the town has less interest for the architect
than for the historian, for whom it will recall the story of
Plymouth Colony and the attempt of the Lord Proprietor,
Sir Ferdinando Gorges, to establish for himself a dynastic
monarchy in the New World. Gorges began to send out ad-
venturers in 1606, but not until 1616 was anything like a set-
tlement established, and that was later abandoned. Gorges
was persistent, however, and by 1642 there was enough of
a settlement on the Kennebec to make it worth while to
secure a city charter for the town of Gorgeana, now York.
The town has its architectural interest, however, for here
stands, in a good state of preservation, one of the oldest
English-derived buildings in the country, the " Mclntire
Garrison " (a title which it shares with a few other fortified
houses still standing, as at Newburyport, Mass.), a two-story
house' of considerable size, built in 1623, and in which, as
also in the old jail now
standing and built
in 1653, some
part of
dozen." Doors, sashes, mantels, newels, cornices, mould-
ings, there they all were, and all else that was needed was a
few nails, a few hours' work, and then you had something
vastly better and more up-to-date than those prim-looking
houses the forefathers used to build. The jig-saw is often
singled out as the sole cause of this lamentable vulgarization,
but, though a large, it was far from being the only offender.
The blundering, brutal activity of the machine and the
thoughtlessness of the manufacturer, in combination, created
the condition which lasted up to the Centennial Exhibition
of 1876, at which time it began to dawn on people whose
artistic perceptions had not been wholly atrophied that it
might be possible to depose the machine from its position as
master, and reduce it to its proper sphere as a useful servant ;
and with the perception of that desirability began the reju-
venescence of arts of all kinds which has been so phenom-
enal a feature of American progress in civilization in the last
quarter century.
It is quite probable that a few
years from now, after the lately
adopted scheme for the artistic im-
View of White House, Treasury Building and Capitol, before the recent Restoration.
the townsmen found protection at the time of the French
and Indian massacre in February, 1692.
That, having before them the thoroughly good and refined
buildings that were so common at the close of the eighteenth
century, the people of this country should have allowed their
buildings of every description to sink to the level of debasing
vulgarity that was reached in the third quarter of the last
century is extraordinary, but is far from being unaccountable.
The natural love of change for sheer variety's sake had
something to do with this abandoning of the safe and well-
understood methods; perhaps, even, the impending popular
clamor for an "American style " had been heard murmuring
in the distance, but neither of these was the most potent
cause : this lay in the genius of the race, and there was no
escaping from it. The Yankee was created to invent ma-
chines, and, giving vent to his passion., before he realized
what he had done he had created the " Epoch of the Ready-
made." What need was there, then, to think of proportion,
or fitness, or propriety, or delicacy, or anything of that sort?
All that the human needs of the day coiuld possibly require
was to be found in the next shop, and to be bought "by the
'See cut, page 1 15.
provement of the City of Wash-
ington has developed somewhat, and
the parkway between the Capitol and the
Memorial Bridge has come to be more used,
people will become more familiar than they now
are with the south front of the "White House" '
and will come to realize that the south front is the
front that James Hoban, patterning his plan after
the Virginia fashion of fronting the house upon
the river highway, intended should impress and
welcome the visitor to the dwelling-place of the Na-
tion's ruler. The portico on the north front is of a later time
than Hoban's, and as it has a certain satisfactory dignity of
its own and is in reasonable accord with Hoban's work, it has
for many years successfully dignified the north front and
deluded visitors with the idea that they were approaching
Hoban's front door instead of actually the rear one. In all
probability, the renovations and alterations in and about the
White House now just completed will be voted by most people
to be satisfactory and successful, and, doubtless, this building
now expresses very much what Hoban himself might have done
if still in practice to-day. But there is just a possibility that
the White House to-day is no more like the White House
that Hoban had in mind to build than the structure which
actually housed the first President was like Leinster House,
near Dublin, which is said to have inspired Hoban's design.
As the object of these investigations has been to discover
and point out types rather than to make a record, however
imperfect, of even a large part of the great number of in-
teresting buildings still extant, — but for a large part easily
reducible to a few groups when architecturally considered, —
attention should be directed to the Vanderveer house in
"Plate 46, Part XII. '
THE GREEK REVIVAL AND SOME OTHER THINGS.
117
Flatbush, Long Island, N. Y., built in 1798. While its
Dutch derivation is strongly marked, it has the rather un-
usual interest of being a balanced and
symmetrical composition, a main build-
ing* and extensions, or wings, upon
either side, after a fashion not at all
common at the North, where it has
been rather the habit to extend always
in one direction, until at length the
middle-class houses '^ of low cost crystal-
lized into what may be called the tele-
scopic type, each successive addition
being smaller than the last, looking as
if it were the intention that all should
be slid together and sheltered within
the main structure overnight. The
Bergen Homestead, at Flatbush Avenue
and the Albemarle Road, in the same
township, is a much older building, and
belongs to an earlier phase of the
Dutch architecture of New York State.
Kingston is another New York town
still strongly tinctured with Dutch feel-
ing, but the only house now standing
that escaped the fire set by the British
in 1777 is the Van Steenbergh house,
although the Ten Broeck house, built
in 1676, where, later, the New York
Senate first assembled, and now pur-
chased and cared for by the State as
an "historical monument," was not
much injured by the fire.
It is doubtful if the hurrying New
Yorker ever gives to Trinity or St.
Paul's churchyards a passing thought,
except to feel irritation at the idea that
any people can be so little worldly-
wise as not to take steps to get hand-
some incomes from such costly
building sites. Strangers, having
more leisure to investigate, know
that in both these resting-places
Southern mortuary art offer. The plain slate slab that ac-
cords so soothingly with the greens and grays of the country
churchyard is rather the type at the
North, and while the lettering is often
of great elegance, the death's head
or cherub's head, with palm branches or
wings and a border of conventional leaf-
age, that in varying forms are used as
decorations are interesting more because
they are archaic than because they are
artistic. A large part of their interest-
ing qualities lies in their curious, amus-
i n g and often amazing epitaphs. In
the latter class is found to be faci/e
princeps one in the Phipps Street Ceme-
tery in Charlestown, Mass., which de-
clares that
0%,
GriTestone at Fort Oriswold,
Groton Hei"hls, Conn.
HERE LYES IN'TERRED YE BODY OF
MRS. ELIZABETH PHILLIPS WIFE
TO iMR. ELEAZER PHILLIPS WHO
WAS BORX IN WESTMINSTER IN GREAT
BRITAIN AND COMMISSIONED BY JOHN
LORD BISHOP OF LONDON IN YE YEAR
I 7 18 TO YE OFFICE OF A MIDWIFE A.ND CAME
TO THIS COUNTRY IN YE YEAR. I719 AND V,\
YE BLESSING OF GOD HAS BROUGHT INTO
THIS WORLD ABOVE 130,000 CHILDREN.
DIED M.\Y 6, I761. AGED 76 YEARS.
The Stone now actually bears this ex-
traordinary record ; but the character of
the figures and their spacing make it
plain that the number of births was
three thousand and that it was later
maliciously magnified by the pre-
fixing of a one and the suffixing
of a final naught.
In the South, where the pomp
Gravestnne of Thomas Clark, Mate of
the Mayflower, Plymouth, Mass.
iC <■.,!..'.■<• War
f|!|lVl.f!|lii'll*J'iJ
Gravestone at Fort Gtiswold,
Groton Heights, Conn.
there are some interesting tombs and gravestones. Northern
churchyards, however, do not show in tombs and grave-
stones the same architectural qualities that examples of
* See cut, page 1 24.
* Middle-class Houses. — A very excellent example of the
dwelling-house which men of the well-to-do yeoman cLiss built for
themselves is the Josiah Day house [Plate 2, I'art X'lll, in West
.Springfield, Ma.ss., built in 1754, and it may be taken to indicate
either a certain change in the building-fashions of the time or else
and circumstance of family were more obvious in daily life,
it is natural that the tombs and gravestones should take on
a more architecturally monumental air, and many interesting
m.iy mark the increasing prosperity of the family, for, whereas this
house at West Springfield is sulistaiitially built of brick, tlie
AmI)rose Day house, built in 1725 by a member of tlie same
family, at Westfield, not far away, w.is a frame house with a jjar-
geted, or rough-cast, front, a style of exterior finish at one time
much in vogue in certain parts of New England.
iiS
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
tombs and monuments of the period are to be found in tlie
churchyards and private burying-grounds from Maryland
southward, while mural tablets bearing the family coat-of-
arms and more or less elaborately treated with carving deco-
rate the church and chapel walls and by the quaint phrasing
of their epitaphs make plain that they belong to an earlier
civilization than ours.
It must be evident that it was the writer's intention to let
this paper end with this slight reference to the last resting-
place of the men whose homes in life have been the subject
of these investigations, but at the last moment — long after
the eleventh hour has struck — there come to hand photo-
graphs of an extremely interesting house ^ at Binghamton,
N. Y., which should not be omitted from a record that has
been allowed to extend over into the Greek Revival period.
It would be difficult to find a clearer case of Transition —
it is pleasant to treat the subject with full architectural
dignity — than this little house affords. The original house,
with its central hallway, its four chimneys in the outside
walls declaring an open fire-place for each of its four
rooms and, above all, its porches, both front and rear,
is clearly of the eighteenth-century type common to cen-
tral New York, the front porch showing an interesting
vagary in the planning which evidences thought and archi-
1 Plate 47, Part XII.
tectural purpose on the part of the designer. Later, when
the Greek movement was the talk of the day, the owner
seems to have felt that he must be in the fashion and so
built at one end a screen wall with Classic attributes and,
to show his originality, quite as much, possibly, as to gain
space, introduced a species of two-story bow-window in the
middle — essentially repeating the Boston "swell front."
The plebeian extensions and additions at the other end of
house, added at a still later day, serve to show to what depths
of architectural ignorance building matters had been allowed
to sink in the third quarter of the last century.
The appearance of this circular or segmental bay or pavil-
ion is something altogether notable, not only as a confirma-
tion of the belief in the swell-front as peculiarly a Boston in-
stitution, but also as a reminder of the absence of anything but
quadrilateral forms in Southern work, excepting, of course,
the fully circular forms adopted for certain out-buildings,
as mills, smoke-houses and so on. Even the half-octagonal
seems to have been rarely used, the Harwood house in
Annapolis being the only building we can recall that ex-
hibits this form, but of a later day we find in the Cobb house
near Athens, Ga., a rather interesting application of the
octagonal treatment which also may be considered one of
the final forms of development of the wing-pavilion.
House of Gen. T. R. R. Cobb, near Athens, C.a.
The Massachusetts State-house, Boston.
SINCE the attempt to do away with the " Bulfinch
front" of the Massachusetts State-house was the in-
ciiing cause of the publication of " The Georgian
Period" it seems proper here to give some slight in-
dication of the character of the arguments that at last pre-
vailed and secured the preservation of the building, and
there are given below a few of the many that, at one or
another of the legislative hearings, were addressed to the
joint committee charged with the investigation of the question.
While the general public, not only of Boston, but of the
State at large, showed a
great and sustained in-
terest in the matter, and
argued the case con-
vincedly, both pro and con,
the chief factor in the fight
— the discussion was often
very animated, to say the
least — was the Boston So-
ciety of Architects, and,
more specifically, its Presi-
dent, Mr. Charles A. Cum-
mings, who, in the final ef-
fort in 1895 (the question
had to be debated before
three several legislatures
before it was finally settled
in favor of the contention
of the Society), was ably
seconded by Mr. Clement
K. Fay, a lawyer, who vol
untarily charged himself
with the burden and ex-
pense of conducting the
case. The earlier efforts
toward securing the preser-
vation of Bulfinch's work
were based mainly on
architectural argume nts,
and though they were effective in deferring final action, it
was felt wisest that at the final hearings the greatest stress
should declare itself in the way of an appeal to the senti-
ment of the community, and preservation was finally voted
as a matter of sentiment rather than because preservation
was both architecturally and economically desirable.
In brief, the early history of the building is this : —
On January 30, 1795, the Legislature appointed the Hon.
Edward W. Robbins, Speaker of the House, and Charles Bul-
finch, architect, " to act as agents in building the State-
A Corner of the Council-Chamber.
House," the most important building undertaking of the day
and the first public edifice of importance to be built since
the close of the Revolution. The corner-stone was laid July 4,
1795, and the Legislature opened its first session in the new
building January 11, 1798. The cost of the building had
been $i33.333-33-
In 1853, because of the demand for more space, a large
addition was built on the north [rear] side by Mr. Gridley J. F.
Bryant, and in 1867 some very considerable changes in the
interior of the original building were carried out by Mr.
William Washburn : these
consisted, in the main, of
the introduction of mezza-
nine floors and the finish-
ing off of rooms in the
roof of the building. The
changes carried out by both
Bryant and Washburn were
matters of record, but dur-
ing the work of preserva-
tion and restoration in 1896
evidence came to light of a
seemingly innumerable
number of changes and
alterations carried out by
nameless somebodies
under unrecognizable au-
thorizations ; for instance,
when or by whom the orig-
inal lantern crowning the
dome was replaced by
the one which is most
familiar to living men is
not known.
The work of preserva-
tion in 1896 was entrusted
to Messrs. Arthur G. Ever-
ett (of the firm Cabot, Ev-
erett & Mead) and Robert
D. Andrews (of the firm Andrews, Jaques & Rantoul), with
Mr. C. .A. Cummings as consulting-architect, and consisted,
besides the strengthening of foundations and floors, of the
removing of every trace of Washburn's work — Bryant's addi-
tion had already been torn down to give place to the new an-
nex on the north — and the fireproofing of the roof and dome.
An appropriation of $375,000 was made for the restoration
and fireproofing of Bulfinch's work, a sum which the propo-
nents of the scheme for an entire new building declared
insufficient for the work. The architects administered
I20
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
their undertaking in so efficient a manner that, although
$111,000 were expended upon furniture and certain work on
the approaches and terraces not contemplated in the Act
authorizing the expenditure, they were able to close their ac-
counts with an unexpended balance from the original ap-
propriation of nearly $40,000. The defenders of Bulfinch's
work have been amply justified as economists, while the
lesson that was given to the present and future generations
as to the value of sentiment and the veneration that should
be accorded to the tangible evidences of historic occurrences
has been worth far more than the value of the time spent at
the hearings.
If the stenographer's notes of these many hearings should
be examined, abundant evidence would be found that the
men of Massachusetts have, in spite of their seeming non-
chalance and reserve, a warmth and delicacy of feeling that
on occasion can find forceful utterance with a semblance of
Gallic effusiveness. Of all the words that were spoken there
were none that went more directly to the root of the matter
or appealed so effectively to the conscience of each hearer
than those spoken by the venerable Col. Henry Lee, who
might almost be called Governor Andrew's War Secretary.
Col. Lee's remarks follow the two or three selections we have
course, officially received in the State-house by Governor Brooks.
Monroe was so much pleased with the building tliat lie asked to
be introduced to Mr. Bulfinch; and it was in consequence of this
visit, as it is said, that Mr. Bultinch made the plans for the restora-
tion of the Capitol at Washington.
" Doric Hall, the hall where the regimental colors are Dreserved,
was familiarly called by tliis name during the first part of the
century. It was in this hall that the meeting took place, once
famous, at which Mr. Webster made his great speech m protest
against the admission of Missouri. No mention will be found of
this great occasion in Mr. Curtis's ' Life of Webster^ because
at the time he wrote that book Mr. Curtis thought it might wound
the susceptiljilities of the South. All the same, the mseting was
held and tlie speech was made ; and the substance of it proljably
remains in the address which this meeting published as the pro-
test of Massachusetts against the extension of slavery in 1820.
" At that time the colors sent by Stark to Boston, after tlie Battle
of Bennington, were still preserved, with the Hessian drum and
musket, in tlie Senate chamber. 15y an unfortunate tidy turn of
Mr. Messenger Kuhn, who found they were moth-eaten and dirty,
t'.ie colors were destroyed in a spring cleaning under his direction.
Doubtless he said that the old colors were out of repair, and that
new ones would last better. Still, some of us are sorry that the
eagles which the Landgrave of Hesse borrowed from Charlemagne
and the Roman l-jupire did not escape the hand of modern re-
pair and improvement. We lost the chance then to say : —
' So even Roman banners fall
To hide the time-stains on our wall.'
The Ends of the Old Senate-Chamber, before the Restoration.
made from the interesting series of tracts that were given
wide circulation during the discussions.
"A Century of the Commonwealth."
[liY Edward Kvkrett Hale.]
" It will be ninety-nine years on the fourth of July since the
corner-stone of what was long called the ' New State-house '
was drawn to its place by fifteen white horses. The number of
horses indicated the number of States in tlie Union; Vermont and
Kentucky having been added to the old thirteen. Samuel Adams
was Governor, and laid the corner-stone with due solemnity.
With the next celebration of Independence, then, tlie hundredth
year of the State-house will begin.
" It was intimated in some journal last week that the century
which has pas.sed has been so uneventful that the New State-house
has no very interesting historical associations, before those con-
nected with the War (Jovernor and the War. It would be curi-
ous, indeed, if this were so. It would have startled George Cabot,
Josiah Quincy, lUbridge (ierry, Caleb Strong, Christopher Gore,
or their contemporaries, had they been told that nothing of much
dramatic interest transpired in those halls in the earlier part of
the century. It would have surprised Charles Bulfinch had he
been told that the building he had planned had not won a place in
history before it was thirty years old.
"When President Monroe visited Boston in 1817, he was, of
" The Commissioners now tell us about the whob building what
Mr. Kuhn said about the banners ; it is old and out of repair, and
a new one can be had for money, and the State is rich.
" The State conventions of l<S2o and 1853 were both held in this
State-house. The wealth of oratory and of wisdom, from all men
of mark, was lavished here. Men sat in those bodies who had
never served in the General Court, in their readiness to help in
framing permanent institutions of the Commonwealth. Webster,
Story, most of the judges of our own courts, indeed, have sooner
or later taken part in the deliberations here. In 1853, Sumner
and Phillips, neither of whom ever sat in the Legislature, were in
the convention. In State Legislatures and public hearings I have
heard Charles Francis Adams, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Peleg
Sprague, Francis Wayland, Kdward Everett, and many others,
orators or statesmen; some of them in the days when the State-
house was not half a century old.
"Every European traveller of distinction, who had any claim to
be presented to the (lovernor of his time, was taken, of course,
to the State-house. It would be fair to say that, with its wealth
of archives, the two charters, the statue of Washington, the relics of
the older monument, it represented the Commonwealth as no single
man could do. Lafayette was received here in 1824 ; a few years
later General Jackson was received here. The ceremony was the
more distinguished because the hosts supposed his advent to
the presidency to be a permanent injury to the Constitution; and
they were obliged to show, in every detail of their hospitality,
that they were Americans and gentlemen, though they did not
' Hurrah for Jackson.' l^rinces of every grade, from Keokuk
and Blackhawk round to the Prince of Wales and Prince Alexis,
THE MASSACHUSETTS STATE-HOUSE.
121
have been received here. It was after an hour in the Governor's
room, where the Karl of Kllesmere, the Governor of Canada, had
seen Andrew's ministrations in thjir detail, that he thanked the
Governor for his hospitality and said, • I understand your institu-
tions as I never did before.'
•• Indeed, it was the work of the War, with the great War Gover-
nor and the loyal staff who served him so well using every inch of
the State-house for the duty whicli Massachusetts had in that
crisis, it was this, more than everytliing else, which has endeared
the old New State-house to this generation."
"The Crown of Beacon Hill."
[Bv Charlks a. Cummings.]
" There are signs that the people are waking up to the danger
which threatens the State-house on Beacon Hill. They must do
more than wake up, if they wish to save it. The impression has
become general, the press has lately fostered it, that its destruc-
tion is a matter of necessity ; that its foundations are weak, its
'• It is true, further, that the interior disposition of tlie wings at
the ends of the building as executed by Bulfincli was changed
in tlie lowest story during the tasteless and unskilful alterations
made some thirty years ago, under th^ direction of Mr. Washburn,
by the insertion of an intermediate floor, whicli divided the ample
chambers of Mr. Bulfinch in order to give the Legislature some
necessary committee-rooms, but wliich greatly detracted from tlie
propriety and dignity of that portion of the interior. These addi-
tional rooms have now been rendered unnecessary by the ample
provision made by Mr. Brigliam in the extension buildings, now
nearly completed, and nothing prevents the removal of the inter-
mediate floors and the restoration of the wings to their original
condition.
" But all this has really very little to do with the case as it now
stands. If the Commissioners wished to retain the present buikl-
ing, there would be nothing heard of its bad condition. They
would go to work quietly wliere they found repairs needed and
put it in a good and safe condition. They do }iot wish to retain
it. It is very old, they say; it is a hundred years old; it cannot
stand much longer; better take it down now while we are con-
cerned with it, and have .something new and more in accordance
with what we are just finishing behind it.
The Daniel H. Peirce House, Purtsmoutli, N. II. [i79<>.]
woodwork decayed, and its general condition unsafe and threaten-
ing ruin.
" It is very necessary to say with emphasis that this is an entirely
false impression, and that among tlie various parties directly in-
terested in replacing the present building by a new and more am-
bitious structure not one has claimed that there is any weakness or
failure in any part of the State-house except in tlie dome. The
dome is a small hemisphere about 50 feet in diameter, of which
the framing is of pine joists or planks, considerably lighter, no
doubt, than we should use to-day in a similar work, and which
rests on two wooden trusses. These trusses have been carried
down at one extremity by the weight (as is understood) of a large
water-tank which was put in at tlie time tlie elevator was introduced.
It is also doubtless true that tlie framing-timbers just spoken of
have suffered more or less from dry-rot and ravages of worms.
But the replacing of these timbers with sound ones of greater size,
and the blocking up of the dome to its true level, is a trifling mat-
ter, involving (as one of the Commissioners admits) no difficulty
and small expense, and could be done without any interference
with the daily use of the building below.
" Well, it is not to be doubted that their new liuilding would be
in many respects of construction better and safer than the old one.
It would certainly be more splendid, and more in accordance with
modern methods. But is tliat the only consideration ?
" We say. No, nor yet the cliief consideration. What is most
valuable is the State-liouse of a hundred years ago, its history; its
a.ssociations with tlie men of other days, the inexpressible, un-
definalile flavor of earlier times when life was simpler and when
the name of Massacliusetts stood for all tliat was noble and fine
in citizenship, can never be transferred to a new State-liouse.
Add to this, which is a consi<leration rightly enough character-
ized as " sentimental," tlie simple, noljle and dignified aspect of
the building and tlie extreme inijjrobabililv that any more aml)i-
tious successor will ever possess these qualities in e<|ual measure,
and we are justified, I think, in saying that tlie destruction of the
.State-house would be a lamentalile concession to the modern
American spirit wliich carries us every year fartlier away from tlie
' nobler modes of life, witli sweeter manners, ])urer laws,' wliich
our fathers knew, tlie .spirit of false progress, false ambition, false
pride."
12:
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
This series of tracts was admirably effective, but as they
lacked the emphasis of vocal inflection and did not afford
ocular proof of the sincerity and earnestness of the protestant
they did not have tlie force and effectiveness of the words
personally addressed to the joint committee by many dis-
tinguished and humble citizens alike. It was a real intel-
lectual treat to attend those hearings. But of all the words
that were uttered none, probably, were quite so impressive as
Colonel Lee's.
[Rkmakks of Coi.. Henry Lee.]
'• This is a matter of sentiment, as Governor Rice said. He
who does not vakie sentiment ou<;lit not to be here. John Win-
throp valued sentiment, or he would not have come here ; so did
his companions. They had nothinjj but sentiment and piety to
preserve them and keep their courage up, as had the Plymouth
City-hall; I don't. There was Sir William I'hips's house, that old
buccaneer, to fulfil the dreams of his l)oyhood ; and wlien 1 was a
boy, it was used as the lioys' Asylum : that stood down on
Charter Street, a grand old building. There was the house of
Governor Hutchinson and his father, which house was so fine that,
after Hutchinson was made CJovernor, he said he didn't want to
go and live in the Province House, because he had a better one
down at the North End ; that and the house of Sir Harry P>ank-
land stood side by side in Garden Court Street. That house I
have seen in my boyhood, and am one of the few now living who
ever saw it, a most remarkable specimen of Provincial architect-
ure ; but pulled down ruthlessly. It would have been well to have
preserved it. There was the beautiful Hancock house, well re-
membered ; and (Governor Andrew did all that he could to pre-
serve it. It would have been mo.st appropriate for the official resi-
dence of the Governor of Massachusetts, and could have been
bought for less than you paid for an ordinary house on the other
side of the way a few years afterwards; and there, sentiment, if it
had ruled the hour, would have been found in the end to have
been profitable. There were long lines of houses : all Pemberton
The Van Lew House, Richmond, Va.
Fathers. It seems to be rather late in the day for us of Massa-
chusetts to abandon sentiment. It has money value as well as its
moral value. When I first remember Boston, it was filled with
sentiment. The buildings, which stood mostly apart with their
gardens, were Provincial, some of them going back to Colonial
times. As the city grew — as the town grew, for it was not a city
then — as the town grew and room was wanted for the population,
these old buildings came down gradually and gave way to blocks
of buildings ; but many of them might have been preserved, and in
looking back, we see that if the sentiment of the time had inspired
jieople to their preservation, there would have been money value in
it. There stood the old Province House, a proud old building, one
of the few remains of Colonial magnificence, built in 1679 by Peter
.Sargent, for many years the vice-regal court of this Province, the
abode of nine Provincial Governors, one after another, from a testy
old Colonel of Marlborough's army down to Sir William Howe, who
left it at the time of the evacuation of Boston. That might have
stood behind its oak-trees on its terraces, a grand, stately old build-
ing, and would have been much handsomer, in my opinion, than our
new City-hall — I suppose Mr. ' would have preferred the new
* A previous speaker, who favored Uie demolition of the State-house.
Hill was covered with them ; Peter Faneuil's house, the giver of
the hall; there was the house of Sir Harry Vane, afterwards Rev.
John Cotton's house; there was Governor Bellingham's house;
and these with their grounds would have made a beautiful park
for the city, and we should not have had to go out five or six
miles to find our park. It would have been well to have preserved
them.
" There were fortifications. Some one spoke here as if there
had never been any associations in this country, ex-Senator ,
no other associations but the Revolutionary associations. I think
there have been a great many associations, but if you come to
Revolutionary associations, there was the fortification on the
Common that was levelled when I was in College ; there were
the fortifications at the South End ; there were the fortifications
on Mystic River, where afterwards the convent was built, and a
cordon of earthworks from Mysdc River through Somerville,
Cambridge, Brookline, Ro.xbury, ending with Dorchester Heights;
memorials of the Siege of Boston and of Washington's trials.
And I think a beautiful parkway could have been made and these
fortifications preserved for a very small amount of money, and
sentiment would have been found to have been economy in the
THE MASSACHUSETTS STATE-HOUSE.
123
end. But those were the interesting monuments of my bojliood
and youtli.
" A monument, what is a monument ? Tliere were some ricli
men who thought a monument ouglit to be something new; they
had Mr. "s idea about it, that it ought to be something new, some-
thing in the present style. I don't know whether the dome of St.
Peter's had been changed to the modern style to attract people or
not ! They thought this monument ought to l^e something new,
something pretty fine, finer than the earthworks which were there.
When my father took me over to see Bunker Hill, there were the
earthworks; one could see the redoubt on which I'rescott stood;
see the breastwork ; see where the rail fence ran. One could see
all the way down to the Xavy Yard, to Moulton's Point, where
the British landed. That was something like a monument ; it was
not a mere record, which the Monument afterwards was ; it was a
remituhr of the scene, and that is what a monument should be.
You stood there, and all the sentiment of the battle came to you.
Now, you go there, and you stand upon a hill, nicely graded and
all the redoubt and breastwork filled uji and erased, and you have
the pleasure of seeing an Egyptian obelisk ! Well, it is a matter
of taste : to me the old earthworks would have been more inspir-
ing, more suggestive, without the Egyptian obelisk. Mr. has a
different mind. It is a free country; we all have a right to our
opinion.
" If you want to save the State-house, you want to save it as a
matter of sentiment : it is easier now that they have built that re-
markably exaggerated building behind.
" During the war, when Governor Andrew worked night and day,
when war as well as peace was carried on, the State-house was
sufficiently large. What they want a building seven times as large
for, I don't know, unless every legi.slator is seven times as big as
he was in those days. I was to-day guided through ; I went to
the farther end. I was told you were to be in No. 29. Then I
came to No. 8. I could not come without a guide. What you
want such a building for, I don't know ; but it is built. I suppose
you want it, as Mr. says, to advertise the .State; or it was
wanted for some other purpose. Well, I think it is a great pity.
"A great many years ago, my father bought a house in Brookline.
It was an historic house; it was, part of it, 230 years old. In
that hou.se had been born Susannah Boylston, the mother of Jolin
Adams, the first John Adams. I have a letter of John Adams's,
saying that he has not been there since he was a youth and
brought his mother on horseback on a pillion behind him. The
carpenter told me when I wanted him to make some repairs for
my father, ' I tell you, Mr. Lee, the cheapest thing you can do is
to pull that house right down.' He found that there was some
dr)--rot in it, that there were some of the studs worn off at the bot-
tom, and some other things ; and that carpenter was of Mr. 's
opinion, that a new house was wanted ; that it would advertise
my father better than the old house. And I did not do it : I kept
the old house in spite of its being " powder-posted " ; I have
kept it, it is now forty years, and I can say that I never go to that
house, for I don't live in it, one of my sons lives in it, I never go
to that house without an active sensation of pleasure. Why ?
Well, when you go abroad, what do you go to see ? Do you go
to see the ne-iO houses in London .' Do you go to see the new
Law Courts.? Do you go to see that griffin that tliey put up
where Temple Bar stood ? No, you go at once, the minute you
can dust your clothes, out you go to see Westminster Abbey. I
have no doubt there is rot in Westminster Abbey. I have no
doubt some stones have crumbled, and I think it 7i'(i«/rt' advertise
London if they built a new one. But what sliould you think
when you came to London and asked for Westminster Abbey
and they should say, ' Well, you can't see the Abbey, but you can
see a model of the Abbey; it was thought in the way and tliat we
ought to have something new, something Xo advertise London, and
we have taken down the Abbey ' .'
" Now, is it healthy ? Perhaps that is one reason they took it
down : took it down because it was too old and too much dry-rot
in it, and they wanted something new, something up to the times,
Mr. . And the Tower, ' Well, yes. you can see the Tower,
but who wants to go and see the Tower ' .' Why, you do, tlie
American, who is going to pull down the State-house. You go
abroad on purpo.se to see the Temple, the Tower and the Al)l)ey
and all the antiquities that you can find in London, not looking at
anything else.
" Then .some say this State-hou.se is only a hundred years old.
Governor Long found that out last year; only a hundred years
old ! Well, I have seen the Abbey and I have .seen the Temjiles
of Pxstum, and Augustus C;esar stood and looked at them and
knew no more about who built them than I do; but his feeling of
antiquity and association was just the same as mine when looking
at the Abbey.
♦' You want a reminder if you come to the State-house. You
don't want a new building to recall that here was the old State-
house once, built by Bulfinch, and which had witnessed the first
hundred years of the history of the State. It is all the history
there is. Governor Long doesn't seem to think there is any his-
tory. Now, he has been one of the Governors; there have been
tliirty-five Governors since this building was built, and they have
all been good Governors, and it is hardly to be supposed that there
is no record, that we have had no history all these hundred years.
There have been many interesting events. He said there had been
no war, excepting the War of the Rebellion. That was rather a
mistake: we had the War of 1812, which was a very distressing
war, too ; it robbed us of most of our property and was one that
we were very averse to. We had the victories of 18 12. Up
through the streets marched Commodore Hull and Captain Dacre.
They lived together in the Exchange Coffee-house, and came to
the State-house to pay their respects to the Governor. There
was the fight between the ' Clicsapeake'' and ' S/iannon'' ; the
women were witnessing from the dome with anxious eyes that ter-
rible defeat.
'■ There were many events I remember : the coming of Lafayette
in 1824, who was received here, as he was the next year, when he
came to the laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker Hill Monu-
ment ; that is something of an event. President Monroe came
here in 181 7; that was something of an event. There have been
four or five presidents here since then.
'■ We come down to the Civil War. Why, he said, Governor
Andrew — yes, he believed there was a war — but he thought Gov-
ernor Andrew was on the steps; it was not in the State-house ; he
was on the steps ; he gave the flags and he took the flags on the
steps. Well, if you should be inclined to save your father's house
and somebody sliould say to you, ' Why, I saw your father bid you
good-bye in the stage-coach on the steps.' Yes, but I saw my
father in the house, too. There was something done in the State-
house in those long, tearful years of agony and weariness, heart-
breaking, disappointment and losses ; the procession of young men
coming to offer themselves for service, saluting tlie Governor, like
the gladiators the Emi)eror, ' We who are al>out to die salute you.'
Do vou suppose there is no feeling connected with the rooms
where the Governor sat for those four years ? a man of peace called
upon suddenly to prepare this State for a fearful war, and prepar-
ing it in spite of ridicule, in spite of denunciation, and preparing
it so promptly that Massachusetts was the first State : the first men
who were sent properly ecjuipped and armed for the war were the
men of Massachusetts. The whole world wept for Lincoln's death ;
are there no tears for Andrew, who fell, after the war, as much as
Lincoln ? He was killed by an assassin, but if he had not been, he
would have died in a short time from head and heart weariness.
Do you suppose Governor Andrew could have sat here those four
years, night and day, for he was here much of the time night and
day, working and enduring, and feeling that he had been, more or
le.ss. instrumental in bringuig about the deaths of all the flower of
Ma.ssachusett.s, without any emotions.? Was there no association ?
You have the association with Bunker Hill — for what } A battle
of four hours. Has a battle of four years no association for this
building, the agony of those four years .? Men, haggard with anxi-
etv and grief, and the mourners going about the streets from every
house; Rachel weeping for her children and would not be com-
forted because they were not. Is there no association for this
building, where the headcpiarters of the whole Government of the
time were? It .seems to me absurd.
" I should like to read a small sentence from William Morris, on
this subject : ' No man who consents to the destruction of an an-
cient building has any right to pretend that he cares about art ; or
has any excuse to plead in defence of his crime against civilization
and ])rogress save sheer brutal ignorance.'
'■ Now I liave onlv one word more to say. In 1870 the Commune
in Paris pulled down the Tuileries. I was there the next year; 1
saw the destruction. They pulled down tlie column on the Place
\'end6me, of wliich they had been so proud. Now the whole of
France is all alive with admiration for Napoleon. They destroyed
the Hotel de Ville with its priceless treasures. What was it ? The
work of brutes. Now we are proposing to destroy not our Hotel
de \'ille, but our State-house, and do it deliberately, in cold blood.
If any of you should be hauled up for killing a person, the judge
would make a distinction whether you did it in hot blood, whether
you did it under provocation, or whether you did it in cold blood.
If vou did it in cold blood, he will hang you ; if you did it in hot
blood, he will let you off with imprisonment for life. So, we are
to be more brutal^ more culpable than those brutish Parisians who
destroyed their monuments ! We do it in cold blood. In this
case, there is no excuse ; you are doing it in cold blood."
The battle that was waged in Massachusetts over the
124
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Bulfincli front of the State-bouse finds an echo in the contest
which is at this moment going on over the retention or the
destruction of the present City-hall ^ in Hartford, Conn.
Curiously enough, this former State-house is by some said to
be also the work of Charles Bulfinch, — and the cupola looks
as if it might have been designed by Bulfinch, but if this is
so it is curious that it is not mentioned in the autographic
list of his buildings which was found amongst Bulfinch's
papers. But whoever was the architect, the building, erected
in 1796, is an interesting one, and as the Connecticut His-
torical Society, the Daughters of the Revolution and kindred
societies are making the same sort of appeal to the sentiment
of the community that eventually proved successful in Bos-
ton, and have already secured a sort of stay of proceedings,
it may be hoped with some degree of confidence that the
ultimate outcome of the agitation will rank the chief city of
Connecticut alongside of the metropolis of New P^ngland as
communities where the intellectual rights of civilization are
respected, and success here will encourage similar effort in
the case of valued " monuments " elsewhere.
1 Town, Ithiel. — Born in 17S4. Died, 1844. In partnership house) in Hartford, Conn., was also his work, and some of the
with A. J. Davis he built the State-house at New Haven, and later Coveriiment buildings at \Vashin<j;ton w^'re built after his d2si<(ns.
in his career he desiijned the (old) State-house of Indiana and the He built many houses and churches in the Connecticut ValL-y,
Is'orth Carolina State-house. The City-hall (not the old State- from Northampton to New Haven, and also in New York State.
Envoi.
IN bringing to an end his enjoyable connection with this
work the editor feels obliged to confess to a regret that
so important an undertaking could not have fallen to
the share of some one who, besides being better fitted
for the task, might have hatl at command both the necessary
time and the equally needful capital to do thoroughly and
well what has been done so imperfectly.
It is "a thousand pities" that when architects began,
twenty years or so ago, to turn their attention again to the
possibilities that lie in the Georgian style — when it is used
with discretion and refinement — there was not in existence
some such comprehensive work as this. For the lack of it
and through the imperfect understanding of the style which
naturally grew out of this lack the country has been endowed
with a vast quantity of buildings, intended to express the
spirit of "Old Colonial" work, which, because of their ill-
considered proportions and vulgar overdressing with applied
ornament, are too often mere caricatures of the style.
On the other hand, it is doubtful whether such a work as
this could have been brought out much earlier. In a large
measure it results from tlie following up of clues afforded by
the chance observation of the ever-wandering amateur pho-
tographer, whose name is legion and whose footsteps cover
every portion of the country. A score of years ago the
"kodak" and the amateur photographer were not, and all
that the architect had for his guidance were such notes as he
could make and such inferences as he could draw from the
comparatively few examples of good work that could be
found in his immediate neighborhood.
We are profoundly grateful for the large amount of assist-
ance we have had in the way of written data, loaned photo-
graphs and drawings of measured work voluntarily placed at
our service, without demand for compensation, by many
different individuals.
To select for special expression of gratitude any of these
appreciated cooperators is somewhat invidious, but we feel
that we ought to make special acknowledgment of the kind-
ness of the officials of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech-
nology, who placed at our service the measured drawings
made by the students in their Summer School of Architecture
— which acknowledgment equally signalizes our appreciation
of the intelligent activity of the students who did the actual
work. But beyond this, thanks are due to Mrs. Thaddeus
Horton, who not only has contributed several interesting
papers on Southern work and has placed at our service a
large collection of photographs of Southern buildings, but
has also secured valuable material through the use of her
own camera. Wm. Rotch Ware.
Tlie Vanderveer House, Flatbusli, L. I.
Colonial Work in the Genesee Valley;
IN all America there is hardly to be found a fairer or
more fertile region than that part of New York State
embraced in what is known as the " Phelps and Gorham
purchase" — the "park-like Genesee Country," as Mrs.
Van Rensselaer has most felicitously called it. The Senecas,
The Old Rochester Market ; now destroyed.
whose villages and yellow cornfields once lay thick on either
side of the broad, fordable river, gave it the name of the
Beautiful Valley, and surely none could be more fitting.
Rising in the precipitous region south of Portage, the
Genesee, in its first miles, pursues a tortuous course between
narrow banks, until, in the vicinity of Mount Morris (whose
Indian name meant " where the river forsakes the hills "), it
enters a broad, undulating country, part clear, part wooded,
and gemmed by many crystal lakes. At Rochester it attains
the level of Ontario by means of two high cataracts, and for
the remaining few miles of its course flows slowly and soberly
between the confining walls of the famous gorge of the
Genesee.
The beautiful country drained by this noble river has been,
from the earliest times, a favorite dwelling place of man.
Far in the past, it was the centre and stronghold of the Iro-
quois nation — those Romans of the ancient American world.
The first white faces that appeared to them there canie prob-
ably from France — devoted Jesuit missionaries and advent-
urous coureurs tin bois, to whom the region of the Great
Lakes, even beyond the Mississippi, was already familiar
ground when, by the Dutch and English on the coast, all
west of Albany was still referred to as the "great unknown
country." The French, however, never made secure their
foothold on these shores, and it was, after all, the English
who, by purchase and treaty, supplemented by a liberal and
judicious use of firewater, dispossessed the aborigines and,
in the slow course of time, evolved the average American of
to-day.
The Falls of the Genesee, siiuated as they are between the
Hudson River and the great cataract of Niagara (to which
they are a hardly inferior spectacle), have in the past at-
tracted many illustrious visitors. Louis Philippe with some
members of his court followed the Indian trail from Canan-
daigua to the falls ; Aaron Burr stopped there on one of his
western journeys, and in later times came Webster, and La-
fayette, and a host of others, drawn not now by the falls
themselves, but by the city that had grown upon its brink.
So singular is the law which governs posthumous greatness,
the only two individuals connected with the locality whose
names shine with sufficient lustre to pierce the darkness of
obscuring years are Mary Jemison, " the white woman of the
Genesee," who, by remaining true to her race and loyal to
her adopters, rendered inestimable service to the cause of
civilization; and a gin-drinking mountebank, Sam Patch,
who in his last utterance enriched the language with a new
catch phrase, " Some things can be done as well as others,"
and jumped to his deatii from the upper falls, in the presence
of a crowd of horror-stricken spectators.
Front Porch of the Smitli House, BrightoTi.
Of the present condition and aspect of the Genesee Country
it is almost superfluous to speak. Rochester, though not the
oldest, is the largest city, the centre of what is said to be
the richest agricultural district in the world. At the Western
New York State Fair, held there annually, the impossible
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
pictures of fruit and stock and poultry, made familiar through
the columns of the Homestead and Henhouse and similar
publications come near to being realized — dogs with blood
in their e_ve, chickens with whiskers on their legs and pigs so
fat their feet have become mere rudimentary appendages,
Front Entrance to the Griffith House, Rochester; now destroyed.
far up their sides. Rochester is also noted for its nurseries
and fine collections of orchids, chrysanthemums and other
flowers; and the many famous stables and kennels in the
city and up the valley annually send representatives to met-
ropolitan horse and bench shows.
At Geneseo, Mount Morris and vicinity, there exists a con-
dition of things common enough abroad, but rarely found in
America, a sort of enlightened feudal system, the land being
almost exclusively owned by a few individuals, hereditary
holders, who, instead of leaving its management in the hands
of unscrupulous agents and living elsewhere on the desired
revenue, plant themselves squarely in the centre of their own
acres and identify their interests with those of their tenants.
The life of the people of this class is not unlike that of
the English country gentleman ; their work consists in the
management and improvement of their land, the bettering of
the condition of the farming population and the breeding
and maintaining of thoroughbred animals, preeminently the
horse. Their relaxation is found in the entertainment of
guests, the exchange of visits and, more than all else, fox-
hunting in its season. Once every year, lured by the Genesee
Valley Hunt, one of the most famous in the country, " So-
ciety" comes farther westward than is its wont, and finds in
the autumnal splendors of the valley a rival to its own Berk-
shire Hills. Mention must be made, also, of another class
whose presence colors — or discolors — the social life of
several of the villages — invalids, who, seeking to renew
their health from springs famous since Indian times for their
medicinal properties, are rested and often restored by a resi-
dence in so fine a climate, amid such beautiful surroundings.
The mingling of these various elements renders the summer
life of the valley quite distinctive, so that the curious stranger,
looking from the car window, expecting to see only repre-
sentatives of the rural population waiting for the incoming
train, is quite as likely to be greeted by the sight of smart
traps and liveried servants and well groomed men and women,
surrounded by all that they can muster of the pomp and cir-
cumstance of wealtii.
I have delayed thus long in coming to the subject of the
Colonial architecture of this region, because there is so little
to be said, and because drawings say that little so much more
completely than words. So far as I have been able to gather,
from research and observation, what Colonial work the valley
contains derives more from the South than from New Eng-
land, which is accounted for by the fact that the first settlers
came from Maryland. Many of the very oldest houses ex-
hibit a central mass flanked by two low wings, and often a
pillared portico in front (not to be confused with the Greek-
temple type of a later day), two features common in Southern
Colonial work, but rare in Eastern. The details, too, incline
to heaviness rather than to that extreme delicacy one sees in
Salem and Portsmouth houses. A Dutch influence, derived
from Albany and New York, the then nearest large citiesi
maybe seen in many of the old doorways and in "spindley "
mantels with fan-shaped ornaments. The architecture here
passed through the same phases as elsewhere throughout the
country ; an increasing heaviness and coarseness led at last
to the adoption of Greek ornament and proportioning, more
and more slavishly adhered to, and this ended in the unre-
lieved hopelessness of "carpenters' Classic."
Of Colonial architecture, properly so-called, Rochester
affords few examples, such as may once have existed, nearly
all having been demolished to give place to new work.
There remain, however, scattered throughout the city many
beautiful doorways, cornices and other bits of detail, and
leaded glass-work of fine design in variety and profusion.
In the older residence section there are some good houses
dating from that period when the Greek influence was begin-
ning to supplant the Palladian, and of these I may mention
a doorway of the Nehe-
miah Osborne house
(now owned and occu-
pied by the Security
Trust Company),
which, though not
strictly Colonial, is yet
a most original and
beautiful application of
Greek ornament to
American conditions.
^»e-4-^f6^4-^-^
In Can andaigua
there exist conditions
more favorable to the
preservation of its past
architecture and it is
accordingly rich in
good material left by
the ebbing tide of pros-
perity. The village,
situated on the shore
of the lake of the same
name, is one of the old-
est in the State and was
long regarded as the
farthest outpost of civi-
lization. On the con-
summation of the
Phelps and Gorham
purchase in the summer
of 1788, a land-office,
the first in America,
was opened there by Mr. Phelps, for the sale of the land to
settlers, who shortly came swarming from the east to buy and
occupy it. Early in the town's history, Louis Philippe, es-
caping from the storm which rocked the thrones of Europe,
settled in Canandaigua with a few followers, and, in the heart
Leaded-glass Forms, Rocliester, N. Y.
COLONIAL WORK IN THE GENESEE VALLEY.
of a virgin wilderness, inhabited by fierce, and sometimes
hostile, savages, established a toy court over which he ruled,
a make-believe monarch.
The village consists mainly of one street, but that is a mag-
nificent one, lined
The Livingston Park Seminary, Rochester, N. Y.
and intersected by
long rows of large
trees. The houses,
old and stately, set
far back and far
apart, each in the
centre of well-kept
grounds. The tone
of the place is emi-
nently aristocratic
and this is enhanced
by the existence of
two large private
schools, the Granger
Place Seminary for
girls and the Fort
Hills Academy for
boys, each occupying old and interesting buildings. In the
Granger Place School there are a few exquisite examples
of Colonial furniture and several fine mantels, one of which
is shown on Plate 3, Part V, and another, more elabo-
rate, Frank Wallis has embodied in his book on Colonial
architecture.
Perhaps the most pretentious house in the village is the
Greig mansion, designed by an English architect early in
the present century and built by English workmen im-
ported for that purpose. Seen, as I saw it, just at dusk on
a winter day, untenanted, in the midst of vast, desolate and
gloomy grounds, it was the most forbidding human habita-
tion conceivable, and this impression was intensified a
hundred fold by an inspection of its interior by the light
of a single oil-lamp as I followed the old custodian from
one great echoing room to another. The finish, with the ex-
ception of a couple of bedroom mantels, is hideous. A
Block of Houses, Geneva, N. V.
spiral stairway of solid mahogany extends from the base-
ment to an observatory on the roof, from which a fine view
of the lake and the surrounding country may be obtained.
My guide told me that the house contains more than sixty
rooms and I could readily believe it, for it is practically four
stories high, and correspondingly large in extent. Whether
the place is haunted or not I do not know, but it haunts me
still. There certainly never was a house offering more con-
veniences to ghosts of moderate means in search of suitable
apartments.
At Brighton there is only one important house, the Culver
homestead,^ now owned and occupied by Mr. Howard Smith.
It was originally a tavern, the first beyond the historic
" Eagle " tavern at Rochester, on the direct road from
Niagara Falls to
Albany.
This fact ac-
counts for some
peculiarities of its
arrangement and
construction, the
second story of
the main part being principally given over to
one large room — the old ball-room, which
extends the entire length of the front of the
house, with nine windows, facing in three directions, and
two fireplaces, one on each side of the entrance. The
ceiling is high and domed, and the floor sets clear of the
joists so as to make it springy for the dancers and to facili-
tate the execution of " pigeon-wings," which were a principal
feature of many of the old-time dances.
Geneva, being an old town and well to the eastward, con-
tains many interesting Colonial buildings. The oldest is
the Tillman block- on Exchange Street, and architecturally
considered, it is perhaps the best, following as it does the
common New England type of the period in which it was
built. Of quite a different character are the houses which
line Main Street, the "Faubourg Saint-Germain" of the
aristocratic little town. Here the Colonial style has under-
gone important modifications, in order better to meet unu-
sual requirements. The street skirts the summit of a high
bluff overlooking Seneca Lake, and from it the view is mag-
nificent ; and the houses are accordingly provided with
ample verandas, not only in the first story but in the second
also. It is interesting to compare the various solutions of
the difficulties in design, involved in such an arrangement.
The most popular seems to have been some modification of
the Classic portico with the second-story balcony let-in be-
tween the great columns, but in a few cases, two superim-
posed orders have been employed. The Folger house,"*
built about 1825, may be mentioned as the best example of
this class. Here by making the second-story piazza three
One of the Hobart College Buildings, Geneva, N. Y.
spaces wide, above five spaces in the first, a fine pyramidal
effect is obtained.
The Hobart College buildings are on Main Street at the
summit of the hill. The first one was built in 182 1 and the
second, identical in appearance, in 1837. Though aside
1 Plate I, Part I and Plate 8, Part V.
2 Plate 9. Part V.
opiate 9, Part III.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
from the subject of Colonial architecture, I cannot refrain
from an admiring mention of the beautiful English Gothic
church built by Upjohn during our best Gothic period, and
Ellicott Hall, Batavia, N. Y.
worthy to rank in the same high class as Grace and Trinity
of New York.
Batavia, though half as many miles to the west of the
Genesee as Geneva is to the east of it, was settled at about
the same time. In 1800 the village was surveyed for a
town, and in 1802 it was made the seat of government of the
county through the efforts of one Joseph Ellicott, a surveyor
and agent of the Holland Land Company, and the principal
pioneer of the region immediately west of the Genesee
River. The old land-ofhce ' and the first court-house and jail
are still standing. The former is unoccupied and ruinous,
but is soon to be put in good condition and converted into a
sort of historical museum. The latter, Ellicott Hall, has
suffered many alterations, having been used in turn as a
court-house, land-office, a fire-insurance office, a roller-skat-
ing rink and a storehouse for second-hand furniture, which
it remains. It was built in 1802 and was paid for in land,
the builder receiving one acre for every day's labor. Imme-
diately beside it, formerly stood a house to which Gen. Win-
field Scott was taken, to recover from wounds received in
the battles of Chippewa and Lundy's Lane, in the War of
1812 ; near by was a tavern, Keye's stand, which served as
officers' headquarters throughout the same war.
The early history of the region round about Batavia is
i'
The Gary House, Batavia, N. Y.
mainly the history of the Holland Purchase. The land
bought from the Indians by Messrs. Phelps and Gorham,
through their failure to carry out their part of the agreement,
reverted to its original holder, the State of Massachusetts.
The part lying west of the Genesee river was then bought by
' Plate 33, Part I.
Robert Morris, who sold it in 1792-3 to an association of
Dutch and American capitalists, called the Holland Land
Company, he still retaining a part, under the title of the
Morris Reserve. In 1797, the Company employed Joseph
House at Canandaigua, N. Y.
Ellicott to survey their purchase and to open offices for the
sale of tiie land to settlers, who shortly came flocking from
the east and south. As before stated, and as the name
implies, the Holland Company was composed largely of
Dutchmen, and there are one or two amusing incidents
recorded in the history of the Purchase, which are as
delightfully characteristic of the race as those narrated in
Diedrich Knickerbocker's immortal history. Here is one of
them : In the first apportioning of the land, for some reason
not readily apparent, four members of the Willink family
were given their choice of 300,000 acres in any part of the
Purchase. They thereupon located it in a square found in
the south-east corner, which was absolutely the most undesir-
able portion of all, from an agricultural point-of-view, for no
other reason than that it was nearest to Philadelphia !
The pioneer history of the Purchase is barren of romantic
interest — of "hair-breadth 'scapes, and stirring accidents by
flood and field;" but there is at least one story, which,
tiiough lacking in blood-stirring and hair-raising elements,
yet strangely affects the imagination and lingers long in the
memory, like some minor air. It is still told to children
around many firesides and is called the " Story of the Lost
Boy."
In 1806, one David Tolles, a farmer living near Batavia,
sent his son to watch that no cattle strayed into a newly-
Le Roy House (rear), Le Roy, N. V.
planted field, there being no roadside fences in those days.
The lad discharged his du'y faithfully: when the animals
appeared, he followed them out into the woods, but he
never came out again. The whole countryside was aroused
and search parties organized, but the mystery of his disap-
pearance was never solved. On the second day of the search
COLONIAL WORK IN THE GENESEE VALLEY.
some one discovered his tracks; on the third, they found
where he had slept, and the bundle of fagots which had
formed his pillow; on the fourth day, they came upon a
little brook where he had washed some roots, — the water
was yet roily with his presence, — but he had fled at their
approach and further search proved unavailing.
It is a sad litile story, but the sequel is sadder still : From
that time until the day of his death, the father of the Lost
Boy became a wanderer in the vain search for his son. If
a rumor reached him of a wild boy having been seen in
Pennsylvania, or Ohio, or in places even more remote, he
would set out on foot, only to be disappointed at his jour-
ney's end, or sent upon some equally fruitless quest. Against
the plain and commonplace background of the times, the
figure of this sad, mad, remorseful father looms large and
black. One cannot but picture him a very Lear of the
wilderness, poor and alone, penetrating on foot the hungry
fastnesses of regions little known, in search of the Lost Boy,
who, if alive at all, was a boy no longer.
The village of Le Roy contains, at least, one house of
more than common interest. This is the Le Roy mansion,
at one time the residence of the family for which the place
was named. It was built some time previous to 1812, and
was originally a land-office of the Holland Company, of
which Herman Le Roy was an agent. In 1821 it was re-
modelled and enlarged, and occupied by his three sons and
a daughter, Catherine Bayard Le Roy; and here, in 1828,
and you will have formed a fairly accurate idea of this part
of the Genesee country.
The curtain of history rolling up, reveals this beautiful
valley the scene of a bloody drama — its denizens plunged in
The Piffard House, Piffard, N. V.
came the great Daniel Webster, courting her. They were
married the following year, she being his second wife.
Shortly after the wedding a grand reception wis held at the
old house. Webster seems to have been fond of the place
and often visited it with his wife in after years.
Travelling in the vicinity of Avon, Geneseo ami Mount
Morris, one can understand why the Indians gave to that
region the name of the Beautiful Valley. It is like a great
park. Gently sloping, wooded hills merge imperceptibly
into cultivated lowlands through \\h;c!i the shallow river
flows, sequestered in an avenue of foliage. The plain is di-
versified by trees and groves, and good straight roads, look-
ing like yellow ribbons on the prim green dress of Nature,
their ends concealed among the hills — lost in the tangle
of her hair. Dignified old houses appear here and there,
crowning the summit of some eminence, or half hidden amid
the trees of the parks wiih which they are engirt — their air
of aloofness atoned for by the always wide-open gates, which
seem to extend a perpetual invitation to the traveller.
Every turn of every road reveals new vistas, new surprises.
The rawness and newness, which is so constant a character-
istic of most of the scenery of our agricultural districts, seem
here to have been trained quite away from the landscape,
without giving place to mere smugness — the clean-shaven
rhilistine face of a too great prosperity. Nature is neither
master nor servant, but the friend of man. Imagine, if you
please, a park, from the wise hand of Olmsted, we will say,
enormously enlarged and made for use as well as pleasure,
Old Hamplon (now destroyed).
the most terrible kind of warfare. During the Revolution, a
division of our army, under Sullivan, penetrated thus far into
what was then a virgin wilderness, fighting the hostile Iro-
quois and setting fire to their villages. Just before the ex-
pedition reached the river, it met with its most determined
resistance and sustained its severest losses, chief among which
was the capture of Lieutenant Thomas Boyd and his party
by the Indians. That brave officer they tortured and put
to death in a manner too sickeningly horrible to be related.
One prefers, rather, to dwell upon the valley's later history,
which was a singularly happy and peaceful one.
Many of the early settlers came from Maryland. They
were not the ordinary type of pioneer, but men of parts,
possessing wealth and culture, and belonging to a class —
now, unhappily, extinct — of which Washington and JefTer-
son are representatives. They left so great an impress on
the place of their adoption that their influence is potent
still, to-day, and this accoun's in some measure for the feel-
ing one sometimes has of a civilization older than mere dates
warrant. For these first settlers did not begin anew, in
pioneer fashion, but resumed, under new conditions and
amid different surroundings, the lives to which they were
accustomed. They built houses like (he Southern houses
(sometimes even to the office, at a little distance from the
main building, where the business of the estate was trans-
acted), they kept slaves, whom they had brought with them,
and each family had a carriage in which its members went
visiting, in true Southern fashion — sometimes driving forty
miles to dine with friends.
The descendants of these people — the Wadsworths, the
Fitzhughs, the Carrolls, the Piffards — own and occupy the
I'"urinlure in Possession of Miss A. M. Piffard.
land to-day and still cherish tho memory and keep alive the
tradition of those early days. But in the heart of New York
State, time cannot be made to turn backward nor stand still.
The "smart set" now invade the valley annually, and dis-
seminate an atmosphere oi Jin de siecle worldliness, which.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
mingling with what survives of the Colonial spirit, imparts to painted, Alpine-scenery-adorned cast-iron safe to stand be-
the social life of the place a peculiar and indefinable quality, hind him. The table-cloths do not bear on their surface
Perhaps no other part of America is so like rural England in maps of the Dark Continent ; there are no flies in the milk,
many ways, and it is so, not on account of any particular nor dish-water in the coffee. The bed-sheets are not winding-
Anglomania on the part of any portion of its inhabitants, shrouds with grave-damp on tliem; no transoms, like the
but because similar causes are bound to produce similar ever-open eye of Mormon, stare one into wakefulness all
effects. As stated before, there is a class here correspond- night — in short, it is blessedly unlike a hotel at all, but
ing in many particulars to tlie nobility of England : it is more, as the name implies, like an PJiglish tavern. Perhaps
composed of hereditary land-owners who lease the major to me it has an exaggerated charm, because the Inn is an
portion of their land to farmers, and, living upon their estates old Colonial house — the Ayrault mansion' — remodelled
the greater part of the year, in every way identify their in- and enlarged.
terests with those of tlie rural population. These men lead At either end of the main street in Geneseo are the en-
large lives: are socially and politically important ; have trances to the estates of G. W. and W. A. Wadsworth. The
many friends. So, at certain seasons, when nature is at its latter occupies the homestead. Few traces of the original
loveliest, their
houses fill with
guests from abroad,
and it is then that
the resemblance to
English country-
house life becomes
most marked. Fox-
hunting completes
the picture, and this
deserves more than
a passing mention.
The Genesee Val-
ley Hunt is one of
the oldest and best-
known in the coun-
try, and, unlike
some others, the
chase is after bona-
fide foxes. The
season opens about
the end of Septem-
ber, and continues
into the winter.
The meets have the
reputation of being
very sportsman-like
events, and not
merely a new kind
of "function" for
the display of red
coats and bob-tailed
horses. The runs
are increasingly long
and severe, so that
no women, except
the most intrepid,
now participate.
Anything on four
Congregalional Churcli, Canandaiguaj N. Y. Bcfure alteralioii in 1S99.
house remain —
exteriorly, at least
— it is so smothered
in modern Colonial
additions. The
grounds surround-
ing both residences
are charmmg; ex-
hibiting the best
taste in landscape-
gardening. A
grove, in each case,
screens the house
from the road. A
drive winds through
it to the slightly ele-
vated clearing where
the house stands.
Tlie formal garden-
ing, what there is of
it, is here — afford-
ing just the neces-
sary transition be-
tween the natural and
the architectural.
The Fitzhugh
house, "Hampton,"
as it was called, was
destroyed by fire
ten or twelve years
ago. It is said to
iiave been one of
the finest, as it was
one of the oldest
iiouses in the valley.
It was built by Wil-
liam Fitzhugh, a
Mary lander, about
1815, and it had for
legs is at liberty to follow the hounds, and the farmers of its most distinctive feature one of those high, cool porticos
the vicinity are sometimes the most enthusiastic huntsmen, which are so characteristic of southern Colonial homes.
The travelling public, however little it may be interested in A drive of three miles from Geneseo, across the flats,
fox-hunting, is yet indebted to the institution for one thing, brings one to the village of Piffard, where there is an interest-
at least, and that is the Big Tree Inn at Geneseo, the exist- ing house, inhabited still by members of the family from
ence of which would scarcely be possible were it not for the which the place was named. Better than the houfe itself
annual influx of the fox-hunting contingent, when its few
rooms are warred for by Buffalonians and New Yorkers.
Though supported principally by this patronage, tlie Big
Tree Inn shines for all, and few villages can boast of a
prettier, neater or cleaner little hostelry. The traditional
are the many old, rare and beautiful things which it con-
tains ; it is a veritable museum of antique furniture and
china and other heirlooms of a past having its roots deep in
the France and England of a former century.
In this article, together with the accompanying drawings, I
accessories of a country hotel are all conspicuous by their have given a fairly representative, though far from complete,
absence. There is no clerk behind the desk, simply because summary of the Colonial work of the Genesee country,
there is no desk for him to be behind ; nor is there any hand-
1 Pl.'ite 5, I'ai-t V.
COLOXIAL WORK AT SACKETTS HARBOR.
Although meagre in amount and inferior in quality, com-
pared with that of the older and richer districts of the South
and East, it has, nevertheless, seemed well worth preserving
a record of it, since it possesses, in full measure, those quali-
ties which make the style such a rebuke to almost everything
that we have done (in domestic architecture, at least) since
its decline. These qualities are, briefly : good sense, sim-
plicity, elegance and refinement of detail, and, more than all
else, beauty of proportion — the quality in which the work of
the architects of to-day is most conspicuously lacking. If
we are to have, in any sense, a renaissance of the Colonial
style, let it be entered upon with greater knowledge, and
more careful attention to the principles upon which the
Colonial builders worked, and by means of which they
achieved such admirable results. It was principally to this
end — that of furnishing additional data for the study of the
style — that the present work was undertaken.
Claude Fayette Bragdon.
Colonial Work at Sacketfs Harbor.
Madison Barracks
SACKETT'S Harbor is chiefly notable as an important
military station on our northern frontier. It occu-
pies a high, wind-swept bluff overlooking Lake On-
tario. A little bay sweeps in and forms a natural
harbor, which is further protected by a long, low breakwater,
on which grows a line of stunted willows, leaning all one
way — mute evidences of the force and direction of the pre-
vailing winds. On one side of the bay are the barracks — a
group of stone buildings, old and low, flanking three sides
of a well-kept parade-ground, the fourth being open to the
water's edge, where a few shapeless mounds of earth mark
the location of an old pioneer fort. Inland, behind the bar-
racks, is a cemetery, where lie buried upwards of fifteen
hundred nameless soldiers, killed in battles of the War of
1812. The first gun of that war was fired from the promon-
tory on the other side of the bay. The battlefield is now
an unkempt pasture in which the village street almost loses
itself and then recovers to take a final plunge over the rocks
into the lake.
This first battle seems not to have been a great affair, but
in the accounts of it one hears — in the hotel or barber-shop,
from the mouths of oldest inhabitants — there are pleasing
siiggestions of British swagger and of Yankee grit and
resource. Five men-of-war (so goes the story), carrying some
eighty guns and fully manned, suddenly appeared before the
frightened inhabitants of the little town, who had for their
defence only the little brig '■^Oneida" of seventeen guns,
under Lieutenant Woolsey — but it was David and Goliath
over again, as the event proved. Prevented from escape by
water, Woolsey and his sailing-master landed with a com-
pany of marines and manned a thirty-two-pounder on the
bluff. They had no shot large enough for the gun, but.
equal to tiie emergency, the twenfy-four-pound balls were
wr;ipped to size with cuttings from carpets and, when these
were gone, the flannel petticoats of the women. With
these unique projectiles the British fleet was disabled, and
actually driven from the waters.
In the war which followed. Sackett's Harbor was a centre
of activity. Here the army was organized and the navy con-
structed. It was from this point tiiat Gen. Zebulon Pike —
he who gave Pike's Peak its naine — started on that secret
and perilous expedition in which he lost his life, and his body
now lies in the old burying-ground behind the barracks.
Nor is Pike's the only illustrious name associated with the
place. Gen. Jacob Brown made it his headquarters while
he commanded the forces on the Canadian frontier. Here
lived Dr. Samuel Guthrie, one of the discoverers of chloro-
form and the inventor of the percussion compound for fire-
On tlie liattlefield.
arms which superseded flints. Grant was stationed here for
a short period after his Mexican campaign, and there is a
barrack-room story about a bet he made and won — that he
could walk around the long public square at Watertown
before another man could eat an army cracker, without
water.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
In former times the little bay was filled with shipping and ure often gains rather than loses by such enforced simplicity,
Sackett's was a place of commercial as well as military im- just as "an honest tale speeds best, being plainly told."
portance, as the ruined old stone mills and an abandoned Although there is much good and interesting work beside,
railroad even now testify. Those palmy days are now long there are only three houses in any way deserving the title of
past, and as there has been no subsequent revival of pros- " mansion," and to the task of preserving some sort of a
perity, the town remains to-day very much as it was then — record of tliem, the present writer devoted a few days of
happily free from the blighting and vulgarizing influence of a short vacation spent in the vicinity in the early nineties.
the "great American
hustler." The mili-
tary atmosphere is all
that remains to re-
mind one of its de-
parted greatness, but
this is all pervasive.
Every vista contains
a blue uniform ; dogs
are numerous and
barbers prosperous ;
the children have a
soldierly bearing and
one even fancies that
the little brick and
wooden stores elbow
one another along the
sidewalk of the prin-
cipal street like a
company of raw re-
cruits on parade.
.'■■'%,f-
The Sackett House.
This work, if valua-
ble, was timely, as
one of the three was
already falling to
pieces through age
and neglect, and
another had recently
undergone extensive
alterations in order
to more nearly fulfil
the requirements of
modern life.
The Sackett house
was built in 1803 by
August Sackett, from
whom the town re-
ceived its name. It
is square in plan,
with a long wing to
the rear. The second
story is lighted en-
There is society of a certain sort, as is inevitable where tirely by dormers, and the exterior is thereby rendered very
idle men and women of the commanding class are brought effective by reason of the ample space above the tops of the
together. It is made up of officers and their wives and first-story windows. The low, broad fa9ade, with its well-
daughters and a few remaining representatives of the old proportioned columns and pediment, seen from the main
families still living in the houses built by their grandfathers street above the large, old-fashioned garden, produces that
— but these, too, are military, and the number of retired rarest of earthly things — a genuine architectural emotion.
colonels one may meet of an afternoon brings to mind
Gilbert's witty line,
" When cvorybody's somebody, nobody's anybody."
With the summer weather people come here from the great
world outside, infusing a new spirit into the officers' balls
The interior is less interesting. There is very little wood-
work, and that little is quite lacking in refinement. This
house served as a hospital during the War of 1812, and
blood-stains may yet be seen on the upstairs floors — so it is
said.
The Woolsey mansion, now owned and occupied by Col.
and other garrison Walter B. Camp, was built in 1816 by Commodore Woolsey.
festivities. Then The knocker on the front door bears, quite appropriately,
there is tennis on the shape of an American
the parade-ground
and yachting on
the bay; teas and
card-parties are
given in the great
old houses, the
dingy portraits on
whose walls looked
down perhaps on
not so very differ-
ent scenes in times
long gone.
It is of these
houses — some of
them — I wish par-
ticularly to speak.
Aside from their
historical associa-
tions, they are intrinsically excellent in architecture. This,
Tlie Wuolsey House.
eagle, and behind the
door there is a row of big
wooden pegs, where, we
are told, the Commodore
used always to hang his
hat on entering. In plan,
the house is a departure
from the usual type, the
hall being at the side of
the main part, instead
of in the centre; there are
two rooms adjoining, and
the wings contain two
more, with pantries and
the like. As originally
built, there were but two
bedrooms on the second
From Entrance to " tlie Brick.'
Hoor, the servants' sleeping-rooms being located in the
basement,
though lacking much of the richness and elaboration of some The old Commodore's love of formality and symmetry is
of the Eastern and Southern Colonial work, is characterized by apparent in the laying-out of the grounds and out-buildings,
great elegance of proportion and refinement of detail. This The house sets far back from the road, and is approached
lack of excessive ornamentation, though probably dictated by through a central gateway flanked on each side by smaller
motives of economy, is, on the whole, fortunate, for architect- ones, for pedestrians. The drive is lined with trees and
COLOXIAL WORK AT SACKETT'S HARBOR.
9
shrubbery, and the white central pavilion of the house, with
its slenderly pillared portico, is thus seen at the end of a
green vista.
Nowhere is anything allowed to interefere with symmetry,
the rear being as perfect in this respect as the front. A few
rods behind the house a fence divides the lawn from the
garden, and this is made another opportunity for a piece of
formal grouping, charming in its eiTect. On one side is the
well-house and on the other the smoke-house, both alike, of
stone, with segment-shaped roofs : between the two, sur-
mounting a low wall, is a white fence of delicate design, with
frequent posts. In the centre this fence forms a semicircle,
in the middle of which is the garden-gate, flanked by two
large posts: the path leads to a summer-house, wiiich occu-
pies the centre of the garden.
Some of the old furniture still remains in the house,
notably a number of tables of very graceful outline, beauti-
fully inlaid.
The Camp mansion, or "The Brick," as it is called, was
built in 1816 by Col. Elisha Camp, an officer of artillery in
the War of 1812. It is now tenanted, from June till Octo-
ber, by the family of his granddaughter, Mrs. Col. Mason.
It is a most substantial structure, built of brick brought from
England for the purpose. The cellar-bottom is formed by
the living rock. The plan is of the common Colonial type :
there is a wide hall in the centre, with two rooms on each
side and a one-story addition to the rear overlooking the
garden, which contains what used to be the children's rooms
and nursery. The main hall is divided into vestibule, re-
ception-hall and stair-hall by means of arches with elliptical,
fan-light transoms above. These arches contain mahogany
doors in four folds, the two central ones being used on ordi-
nary occasions ; while in the hot days of summer, or when
the house is thrown open for purposes of entertainment, all
are folded back out of the way against the wall, making of
the hall one large apartment. This seems a good solution
of a much-vexL-d problem in house planning : to obtain
necessary divisions between the parts of the hall possessing
different functions, without impairing its spaciousness or
embarrassing the movements of a crowd of guests.
Some of the rooms remain just as they were when the
house was built. The same carpet has been on the parlor
floor for over seventy years ; it was woven in England to fit
the room, and is of such good material that even now,
though used constantly, it shows few signs of wear.
The original " scenic " paper is on the walls ; on either
side of the fireplace are graceful wall-tables, semi-elliptical
in shape, and between the windows there is an old upright
piano in mahogany and gold, the first ever brought into the
country, and considered a grand and wonderful affair when
it was new. Some of the upstairs bedrooms are extremely
bright and pretty. There are old-fashioned, high-post bed-
steads, with canopies above, and dressing-tables of quaint
and now obsolete patterns. Woodwork and draperies are
all pure white, the door-panels alone being tinted a light
blue, with good effect. There is a great attic over the entire
house, lighted at the ends by enormous semicircular windows.
Here are stored old beds, clocks and spinning-wheels, and
trunks and chests and boxes, among which one might de-
lightedly rummage away the hours of the longest of rainy
Sundays — if the opportunity offered.
These few random notes may add interest to the accom-
panying sketches and measured-drawings.' Young architects
and draughtsmen throughout the country are apt to complain
of the complete lack of sources of architectural inspiration
in their environment, while, perhaps, at their very doors are
unheeded examples of a refined and even scholarly treat-
ment of wood — the very material in which nine-tenths of
their designing must needs be done. If such would hunt up
old houses in their vicinity, and by measurements and
sketches convey to paper what they find valuable therein,
they would not only be individually profited thereby, but
would also be assisting to preserve a lasting record of the
now fast-diminishing remnants of the only good and char-
acteristic architecture this country has yet succeeded in
producing. Claude Fayette Bragdon.
^'^^^>^®^=^p*^
TiiK Jan Maiiik IIdusk, Ruttkrdam, N. V. — This house, which Oi.n HousK at Madison, N. J. — Although we know nothing about
we believe is still standing, was built, in 1706, for use in the first jjlaco as this building, neither its history, nor its age, it is, nevertheless, typical
a farmstead, and in the second, as a fort to which the owner and his of a class of houses which are found in considerable numbers in northern
neighbors could retire in time of need. The building is 22' x .)S', with New Jersey. It is here shown because it seems to furnish a real con-
The Jan Mabie Houst;, Rotterdam, N. V.
walls about three feet thick, of rough mountain stone, laid at the time of
building in clay. At a later day the joints have been raked and pointed
with lime mortar. The lower story is about eii;ht feel in the clear, the ceil-
ing beams, \2"x i^", acting as tie-beams piiniing the feet of llie rafteis
together and forming with them an Cfpiilateral truss. — Kli.
' Plates 25, 26, I'art II.
Old House at Madison, N. J.
necting-link between the type-plan of the southern builders and that of their
northern fellows. The ti^eatment of the roof of the central building dis-
tinctly shows its descent from the bnililings of the Dutch Colonist, while
the wings upon either side as distinctlyrecall the wing galleries, with
which the scjuthern designer habitually connected his main house with the
end |)avilions, often devoted on the one side to bachelor apartments and
on the other to the kitchen or house servants. — Ed.
The Mappa House, Trenton, N. Y.
[Date, 1809-1812.]
T
*HE deadly hostility between
the Patriots and the Tories,
and the raids of the Indians,
put a stop to all improve-
ments in the Mohawk Valley and ad-
joining country until about the year
1775-
In 1793, Garrett Boone, the first
agent of the Holland Land Company
in this vicinity, reached the fording
^ place of the Mohawk at Fort Schu}'-
1 . ler (now Utica), near the place
P Main Cornice , ., ^ t~v c 1 1 ^
I where the present Deerfield turn-
' pike crosses the river, on his way to
survey, prior to purchasing, a tract of land known as "Ser-
vices' Patent." From Fort Schuyler the land extended in a
northerly direction. Through the virgin forest Boone blazed
the trees for the line of a future road.
Reaching a '• sheltered valley where two creeks come to-
gether," he pitched his tent and determined that the land
about the junction of the creeks should be the site of a
future village. Boone named the village site "Olden Barne-
veld," after John of Barneveld, a famous Netherlands states-
man. It is a pity that the name was changed in 1833 to its
present name, Trenton. Olden Barneveld was incorporated
April 19, 1819, reincorporated as Trenton, April 26, 1833.
(See Neiu York Civil List, 1868, page 571.)
Col. Adam G. Mappa soon followed ]5oone to Olden
Barneveld as second agent for the Holland Land Company.
With him came Judge Adrian Van der Kemp, a man of
brilliant education. He translated for Governor De Witt
Clinton the old Dutch Records belonging to the New
Amsterdam Government prior to English possession and
government. Colonel Mappa and Judge Van der Kemp
were close friends. They both built houses in the village,
each now standing on opposite sides of the same street. In
these houses were entertained Van Buren, De Witt Clinton,
Horatio Seymour and many other notables.
The Mappa House (now owned by Mr. William S. Wicks),
the subject of these illustrations, was begun in 1809, and
finished at the close of the War of 1812. It was intended
to be much more sumptuous, but the rise in the cost of
material and labor in consequence of the war made it neces-
sary to curtail in many ways. Tiie Holland Land Com-
pany had allowed Colonel Mappa $15,000 for the work, but
before the house was completed, he had used up this sum
and much more with it.
The house stands in the centre of the village square, for-
merly in the centre of a much larger property, early reduced
in size by the sale of building lots, the Madam Decastro
house-lot and the Unitarian Church lot being taken from the
soutli side, the village stores and blacksmith-shop lots from
the northwest. The property on the northeast, on which the
John Billings house stood, is now used as a village-park.
The deeds of conveyance of these old properties are in
many ways curious; the deed of one property reads, "begin-
ning at the corner of an asparagus bed." We presume that
the fondness of the Dutch for asparagus made them feel
that such a bed should last forever.
The Mappa House is 52 feet wide and 66 feet deep. The
rooms in the first as well as the second story are 12 feet in
height. Tlie exterior and basement walls are of Trenton
limestone, the foundations from grade to water-table being
laid of five equal courses. These courses, as well as the
square-faced water-table, stone steps and platforms to en-
trances, are cut with eight bats to the inch. It is probable
that the stone for cut-work was taken from quarries a mile
south of the village. Originally, the walls of the house above
the water-table were covered with stucco ; this was removed
in 1894. The house at the present time represents a fine
old appearance, covered in part with ampelopsis vines.
The farmers of the surrounding county gathered limestone
from their fields for the walls of the house. Mappa and
Remsen (John Mappa, son of Colonel Mappa) had opened
a general trading-store, and for several years previous to
the work of construction, the stone-gathering went on. The
stone-pile grew as formidable as a -'meeting-house," so, it is
stated, the farmers said, but as long as Mappa was willing to
Roof Framing.
trade store-goods for stone, which they needed to get rid of
to clear their lands, it was not good business to inquire into
his mental capacity.
The bricks forming the interior walls, first-story and chim-
neys were probably made four miles south of the village at
what is now known as South Trenton, where, ever since, the
THE MAP PA HOUSE, TRENTON, N. Y.
II
brick-making industry has been carried on in a moderate
way.
Tiie timber, of red beech, was cut from the nearby forests,
some possibly from the very site. The marks of the broad-
axe show skilful handling of that ill-looking tool. The spans
for the joists are about eighteen feet, the joists, 4"xit"
in size, are placed 14 inches on centres. The headers and
trimmers are framed of 8"xii" timbers. The roof is
supported on heavy trusses resting on the outside walls.
The strong rafters, as well as the truss-timbers, are framed
and pinned into the heavy plates and ridge-tree. The ridge-
tree is, indeed, a veritable tree, pentagonal in form, showing
7 inches wide on each face.
In the interior, the minor partitions in the first-story and
the dividing partitions in the second-story are made of 3-inch
plank, placed vertically, laid close together, stripped, lathed
and plastered, making practically sound-proof partitions.
The laths, made of straight-grained hemlock, were probably
from trees cut in the early spring just before the sap rises,
and rived into laths ; such at least was the old method of
making hemlock laths.
The roof-gutters were made of pine timber hollowed out,
and hung or strapped to the heavy plates with strong irons.
The ornamental gutter-heads were long ago taken down,
some one or two still being stored in the attic of the house.
The flooring, of spruce, is 2 inche§ in thickness, hewed
from timber, matched and fitted to the joist at each bearing,
jack-planed and carefully smoothed on top.
The hall extends through the centre from the west to the
east front of the house, ter-
minating in porches. From
the east one you look down
on the village streams ; from
the west one to the rising land
and hills above.
The staircase, winding in a
delightful curve from
the main to the sec-
First • Moor Plan
ond floor, is substantial in construction and light in appear-
ance. The hand-rail is of mahogany, a perfect cylinder in
section, polished and worn to such a finish and color as
only age can give. The ramp at the bottom of the stairs
centres in an ebony eye.
The delicate members of the interior woodwork indicate
Italian as well as the Adam Brothers' influence, the former
shown in the general fineness of details and the latter in the
reed-like flutings and panel-scrolls. There is also a touch
of English Gothic shown in the grouping of columns in the
front porch and in other places, and in undercut bed-moulds.
One thing is noticeable, the absence of any form of dentil.
J
__ ;^
rj
-t
mm
Meiv-suitd and di':iuin b^ I'Jlvjilil
Plaster Cornices.
Egg-and-dart mouldings appear only in the cap of the column
forming the door-trim to the drawing-room, and the caps of
the columns in the mantel of the northwest chamber. Beads
occur frequently in the small mouldings, but pearl-and-bead
mouldings only once. The work is profuse in scalloped
rosettes, flutings and similar ornamental cuttings. The wood
is of pine, finished white in a semi-enamel surface.
The Georgian period of Colonial architecture resulting
from the influences mentioned above is in this house
exemplified in its highest type.
There was formerly a very picturesque lodge on the
northeast corner of the property, but this fell into decay, and
was taken down about the year i860.
The Unitarian Church, of the same style of architecture,
was built in Olden Barneveld in 1814. John Sherman, the
grandson of Roger Sherman, the signer of the Declaration
of Independence, became pastor in 1806.
The Guiteau House, the Van der Kemp House, the
Griffith Inn, the Billings House, the Decastro House,
the Douglas House, and a number of structures of less
importance, were built about the same, or a little later, period.
The Mappa property came into possession of the Wicks
family in 1863, and is now used as a summer house.
\V. S. Wicks.
Two Old Philadelphia Churches.
ST. PETER'S P. E. CHURCH.
[Date, 1758-61.]
IT is a real disappointment to find that the feature which
makes St. Peter's P. E. Church,' on the corner of T. ird
and Pine Streets, Philadelphia, so unusually picturesque
is not coeval with the original church, or chapel, structure.
The upper part of the square tower, with its slender octagonal
spire telescoping behind the batllemented roof, was added to
the original chapel, in 1842, by the well-known architect
William Strickland,
in order to receive a
chime of bells pre-
sented about that
time by some friend
of the parish.
In 1758, the Vestry
of Christ Church,
finding the structure
that had been be-
gun only thirty years
before was already
too small to accom-
modate the increas-
ing number of those
who would worship
there, record that ''it
is unanimously
agreed that another
church is much
wanted ; and it is
proposed thai the
taking and collecting
the subscriptions and
conducting the af-
fairs relating to the
building, and fur-
nishing the said in-
tended church, shall
be under the man-
agement of the min-
ister, churcli wardens
and vestry of Christ
Church."
As a chapel, then,
of Christ Church, St.
Peter's was built, be-
tween 1758-61, and
maintained until
1832, when a separation from the parent body was effected.
The site was granted by the "honorable proprietaries,"
and on it was built of brick a structure 6o'x9o' and crowned
at one end by a small cupola in which hung two small bells.
From the differences between the color and character of the
brickwork of the upper and lower portions of the tower, it
appears likely that the lower part of the tower is part of the
original structure and that Strickland added to it the upper
part and the spire,
1 Plate 8, Part V.
"GLORIA DEI," OR OLD SWEDES CHURCH.
44
T
Chancel of the Old Swedes Church, Philadelphia, Pa.
[Date, 1700.]
iHUS, through God's blessing, we have com-
pleted the great work and have built a church^
superior to any in this country, so that the
English themselves, who now govern this Prov-
ince, and are beyond measure richer than we are, wonder at
what we have done."
In the above words Pastor Bjork wrote home to Sweden
in 1700, so that his
superiors in the
Swedish National
Church might know
what had been ac-
complished and the
successors of G u s-
tave Adolphus might
know how the Swed-
ish Colonists, who
emigrated to the
country in conform-
ity with a plan con-
ceived by that king,
were prospering.
Probably many who
regard with amiable
approbation the
important place held
by Scandinavians in
the tabulations of the
annual influx of im-
migrants of late years
do not know that the
Swedes are really
amongst our oldest
settlers. Their set-
tlement at Wecacoe
— now Philadelphia
— antedates the
arrival o f William
Penn (the Tinicum
Church, the prede-
cessor of the present
structure, being built
in 1642), and Penn
is said to have
merely adopted in
his dealings with the
Indians the methods already practised by the Swedes.
Although there are older church societies in the country
and some of these have been able to celebrate their two
hundred-and-fiftieth anniversary, the original structures in
which their worship began have long since vanished and
there are not many church fabrics in the country, not even
the Spanish Mission Chapels in Texas, that can boast longer
life than Gloria Dei, more familiarly known as the "Old
Swedes Church "on Swanson Street, Philadelphia. Further
- Plates 1 1 and 1 2, Part V.
" GLORIA DEL"
13
than this, there is probably no parisli that has worshipped
uninlerruptedly in the same building for so many years.
Gloria Dei has never closed its doors, and in this it out-
ranks the slightly older Swedish church that was built at
Christina — now Wilmington, Del.
In 1900 Gloria Dei will celebrate the two hundredth anni-
versary of the completion of the church building and the two
hundred and twenty-third anniversary of the formation of
the Society. During the first hundred years of its existence
the rites of the Swedish National Church were practised, but
by the end of that time the Swedes had become thorough
Americans, spoke English and no longer felt the closeness
of tlie tie that connected them with their Mother Country,
and so declined longer to receive the native Swedish pastors
sent over from time to time. During the last hundred years
the parish has been affiliated with the Protestant Episcopal
Church.
'I'he baptismal font is said to have been brought from
Sweden by the early colonists, who used it in their service in
the original church structure — the converted block-house that
then stood where the church now stands. The bell, too, is
recast from the old bell used in 1643, and bears the couplet : —
" I to the church the living call,
And to the grave do summon all."
^^'r^?
'\ ^'^^'-^^.t^^ 1^
Old Colonial Work in Virginia and Maryland.
WILLIAMSBURG.
THE ancient quiet of this old place, the residence-
town of the royal governors and officers of the
crown in His British Majesty's colony of Virginia,
has been little disturbed by the irreverent on-
slaught of nineteenth-century progress, and as the English
Bacon had dri\en Governor lierkeley to refuge in Acco-
mack, defeated the Indians, and made himself master of
Virginia. He now called a great convention together at
Middle Plantation, and, after a powerful harangue and a
stormy debate, which lasted from noon to midnight of Au-
gust 3, persuaded those present, among whom were several
traveller, Burnaby, wrote of it in 1759, ''a pleasant little members of the royal council and many '' prime gentlemen "
town with wooden houses and unpaved streets," so will the of the colony, to sign a declaration of their determination to
modern wayfarer find it — an eminently respectable and stand by General Bacon, to " rise in arms against " Berkeley,
highly conservative old burgh, proud of its vanished great- who was denounced a traitor and a rebel, "if he with armed
ness and of its years. The railroad which sets one down forces should ofTer to resist the General; "to oppose " any
from Richmond or Hampton, merely skirts the outer edge forces sent out of England at the request of Sir William or
of the town, and, being out of sight, obtrudes itself upon otherways, to his aid;" — and much more of a like revolu-
the general quaint-
ness and age of the
place only by the in-
frequent rush and
clatter of a passing
train.
From the veranda
of the inn one has a
very agreeable first
impression of a long
stretch of wide "dirt-
road," bordered by
two rows of trees, and
having a straggling,
A\ap of...
"We. James RivLR...
tionary tenor. The
scene was one of the
most striking and sig-
nificant in the early
history of the colony.
In 1698 Governor
Nicholson removed
the seat of govern-
ment from James-
town, then "contain-
ing only three or
four good inhabited
houses," to Middle
1 Plantation, where he
broken line of rather low and small old brick or wooden planned a large town, whose streets were designed to form
houses on either hand. This is Duke of Gloucester Street, the letters VV and M, in honor of their Majesties, William
a pleasant, high-sounding old name, which invokes in the and Mary of England — a conceit never carried out.
mind of the tourist in search of the picturesque a sense of
lively gratitude toward the old burghers for not having
christened their single anportant thoroughfare in the more
usual commonplace way.
Williamsburg was founded, under its original name of
Middle Plantation, in 1632, through an order granting fifty
acres of land and e.xemption from general taxation to any
one settling there.
In August, 1676, when General Bacon and his victorious
Williamsburg was thenceforward the centre of colonial
growth, and, though never attaining any great importance
as a town, it was ever thought a pleasant place to live in,
numbering among its residents and visitors many great and
famous men.
In the immediate foreground, as one looks westward up
the long, wide street, lies the old "bowling-green," a gener-
ous, unenclosed square of close-cropped turf, on one side of
which, and fronting upon the street, stands the court-house,
army of rebels encamped there, it was only a small village a quaint little bit of architecture commonly accredited to Sir
of straggling little houses. Christopher Wren.
14
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
The building is oblong, and one story high. 'J'he walls
are substantially built of small English brick, of a very pleas-
ing dull-red color. The windows, high above the ground,
are tall and narrow, and all the openings are crowned by
semicircular arches, in which the dark, glazed brick used
for headers is simply effective. Painted boards have re-
placed the original round head sash and fan-lights. Where
the thickness of the wall is reduced, at the floor-level, the
offset is covered with a rounding moulded brick. There is
a wide stone platform, with three steps to the ground, before
f
. Mffer
-*- S**:
Christopher Wren's Court-house, Williamsburg.
growers. In 1668 we hear of three hundred pounds sent
over as a present to Charles the Second.
Then there came a period when the caterpillars languished
and died, and the JJurgesses undid the law as to the com-
pulsory planting of mulberry-trees. There was another
mulberry revival when the Huguenot refugees came over,
and in 1730 more silk was sent home to England; but noth-
ing came of it all at last, except the grand old gnarled and
knotted bolls and spreading branches of the trees, which we
find composing effectively into foregrounds in these ancient
places.
Not far beyond the court-house is old Bruton Parish
Church, standing within the walled enclosure of its "God's
acre," and rearing its graceful, Wren-like tower amid the
spreading branches of the ancient trees. Our eighteenth-
century Englishman, Mr. Burnaby has set down old Bruton
as " an indifferent church," but it was comparatively new in
his day, and had scarce yet felt the beautifying touch of
time.
The vestry-book of the parish of Middlesex in the year
1665 contains an entry directing the building in Middlesex
of a church similar to the church of Bruton Parish. That this
was a wooden building seems likely from an entry in the Bru.
ton records of 1678 giving the list of donors to a new brick
church,^ headed by John Page, who gives twenty pounds in
money and the land for church and churchyard. The name
of Bruton seems to have been originated by Mr. Sudwell, who
the doorway, over which projects the roofed pediment of a
portico, to which the columns are wanting. 'I'here is no evi
dence that they were ever in place, nor does the eye miss
them greatly after it has become a little accustomed to their
absence. A wooden cornice, of simple membering, is car-
ried round the building. The eaves have a moderate projec-
tion. The hipped roof is crowned with a tall octagonal lan-
tern of graceful form, with wooden finial surmounted by a
good wrought-iron vane.
The old mulberry trees along the street are very beautiful
and effective in shape, and interesting as the relics of a craze
which from time to time played a not insignificant part in
Colonial Virginia, and, in fact, throughout all the thirteen
colonies. Attempts to grow the silk-worm were renewed
again and again in spite of failures, and the successive trials
were continued over a period of about one hundred and
sixty years, reaching down to the beginning of the Revolu-
tion. Mulberry trees were planted everywhere. One finds
them in numbers about the great old manor-houses on the
river. The craze came over from England, as did every-
thing else in those days, where it originated in an effort of
the merchants to escape the paying of good English gold for
French silk. The Jamestown people had a try at the mul-
berries, and sent some silk to England, creating a tremen-
dous excitement among tlie enthusiasts " at home," and so
encouraging the hopeful that, in 1620, a lot of French silk-
growers were sent out to give the experiment a fair trial in
Virginia. Nothing seems to have come of this enterprise,
and the stirring times of the Indian massacre of 1622 doubt,
less drove the skilled "mounseers" away to sunny France
again.
Charles the First was always interested in the silk-growing,
which he encouraged in his own ineffectual way. It went
on under the Commonwealth, and we find good Edward
Digges, in 1655, turning out as much as four hundred pounds
of fine silk. Later, the House of Burgesses passed a law
requiring the planting of one mulberry-tree to every ten
acres of land. Great rewards were promised successful
The Churchyard Cate.
SO called the parish in memory of his birthplace at Bruton,
in Somerset, England. He also gave twenty pounds toward
the new building, and Philip Sudwell twenty pounds, and
many others gave five pounds. And John Page was allowed
iThis church, too, gave place in 1715 to a larger one. 28' x 75', with
wings or transepts, the tower and steeple being added in 1769, in which
still swings the bell, cast in 1761, presented by the queen herself. In
1S3S the interior was iriaterially changed and at the same time the old
pews and pulpit were removed. — Ed.
CHRIST CHURCH, BRUTON PARISH.
15
to put up a pew in the chancel, where there was also one for
the rector.
As soon as the church was dedicated, the vestry made it
known in the community that it was intended to enforce the
penalty of so many pounds of tobacco against those who
failed in their attendance.
There seems to have been from the first a great struggle
between the royal govern-
ors and the church people
as to the induction of the
pastors. The Governor,
as representative of the
King, was the nominal
head of the church, and,
as such claimed the right
of appointment, and was
otherwise inclined to in-
terfere with the functions
of another great person-
age, the Commissary to
the Bishop of London.
There was much unseemly
squabbling over this mat-
ter between these rival
powers. In 1696 the
salary of the rector was
The Tomb of the Bravs in Bruton Parish Churchvard.
By all odds the most distinguished churchman of colonial
times, in Virginia, was James Blair, Rector of Bruton Parish,
from 17 10 to 1743. He was the founder and first president
of William and Mary College, and Commissary to the
Bishop of London. His parish of Williamsburg, or Middle
Plantation, was reported to the Bishop of London, in 1723,
as ten miles square. His ministry "commenced," says
Meade, "under the ad-
ministration of Governor
Spotswood, and with a
tender from the Governor
to the vestry of aid in
building a new church,
the plan of which was sent
by him, and is, I presume,
the same with that now
standing. Itsdimensions
were to be t w e n t y - 1 w o
feet, with two wings, mak-
ing it a cross as to form.
The Governor offered to
build twenty-two feet of
the length himself."
Blair was the most en-
ergetic of men, and always
foremost in the affairs of
*H,--- '^"
£]oTnti oi ^c \)s^\i> -
%-
fixed at sixteen thousand pounds of tobacco, in lieu of ;£"ioo Church and State. He kept up an endless warfare against
per annum, which, the parishioners had complained, they the royal governors in matters relating mainly to the
were unable to pay. The incumbents of Virginia livings Church, and he defeated them in succession and single-
were not, as a rule, men of a high order, if we may believe handed. Even the genial and cultivated Alexander Spots-
the traditions of their profligacy. One is said to have fought wood, that distinguished soldier and most accomplished
a duel in his churchyard to settle a quarrel at cards, another gentleman, did not long live in amity with the staunch
thrashed his contumacious vestry, and then preached them and invincible old cleric, and, as the Governor himself
a sermon celebrat-
ing his victory:
swindling of trades-
men, gambling, and
attendance at horse-
races and c o c k -
fights seem to have
been quite common
among them and,
finally, the evidence
is unmistakable that
they all, to a man,
got gloriously drunk
at dinner whenever
they could. These,
indeed, were the
manners of the
times, and perhaps
the worthy parish-
ioners were not so
shocked as one
might suppose by
this behavior of
their clergy. How-
ever, the faithful
continued the strug
gle with the govern
ors until they finally
Christ Chiircii. liriiton I'nrish. Wiilianishiirc:, Va.
admits, it was not
the parson who was
worsted.
Blair's quarrel
with Sir Edmund
Andros was a fa-
mous one, and he
fairly drove the suc-
cessor of Andros,
Sir Francis Nichol-
son, from the colony.
Jiruton Church is
really very beauti-
ful. The gable on
the east end is
densely covered in
ivy, and the suns
and storms of many
years have so mel-
lowed and harmon
ized the whole that
one is loth to criti-
cise in detail. No
doubt it is, after all,
but an indifferent
affair, as our friend,
the Archdeacon
Burnaby, insists,
won the rif^ht of hiring their parsons from year to year, a but the warm, yellowish-red tone of the old bricks, the simple
system which, no doubt, largely increased the godliness of dignity in the lines of the building and the fair propor-
deportment and improved the odor of sanctity in these tions of the old bell-tower, the clinging ivy, the back-
reverend "entlemen. ground of fine old trees, of grassy yard and mouldering
i6
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
mossy tombs, all so eloquent in the tender loveliness of been cleaned so as to reveal the beauty of the work, with-
age, unite in a picture which has in it a good bit of old out, however, losing the inimitable mellow tones with which
England, and is fidl of quiet charm. The tin roof which old time has glorified them.
replaced tiie ancient shingles was an unhappy mistake, and In another part of the yard, lying half-hid among the long
we may hope that the better taste which now controls the grass, is a plain gray slab of stone setting fortii in eloquent
parish will, some dav, restore the nobler covering. Going simplicity that " Here lyes the corps of Hugh Orr, hammer-
in through one of the wrought-iron gates set in the low wall
of brick which surrounds the churchyard, one wanders
among the tombs in that subdued enjoyment of the solemn
beauty of the place found only in an ancient garden of the
dead. Here are some quaint old stones, rich in sculptured
heraldic device, and bearing, in graceful, antique letter,
stately tribute to the deeds and virtues of the sleepers
beneath.
man in Williamsburg — 1764"- — and many graves there are
unmarked by stone or mound, most eloquent, perhaps, of
all.
The interior of Bruton has little to reward the eye of the
curious. There is, to be sure, the alleged, and doubtless
perfectly authentic, Pocahontas font, in which they baptized
the wild princess after they had talked her into becoming a
Christian and the wife of John Rolfe. There is, also, some
Here, under a twisted mulberry in the southeast sunny interesting communion-plate belonging to Bruton parish :
angle of the wall,
lies "Barradall, ar-
miger," beneath a
tomb blackened and
seamed with age,
but very good in
design, and bearing
a splendid sculpt-
ured crest and a
Latin eulogy of that
worthy jurist of the
colony, upon the flat
top-stone. And not
far from the tower,
at the western end
of the church, among
a group of the larger
tombs, is the hand-
some monument
erected by a grate-
ful colony to the
memory of P^dward
Nott, late their
Governor, '' a lover
of mankind and
bountiful to his
friends," who died
August 23, 1706, at
the ageof forty-nine.
The lettering of this
inscription is par-
ticularly good, and
the armorial bear-
ings carved above
it are rich in scrolled foliation. At the head and foot and on
the sides of (he tomb are relievos in white marble carved by a
skilled hand. These marbles were, of course, brought over
from the mother country, the work being of much too fine a
quality to have been executed in the colony. Kdward Nott
was the first deputy of the Earl of Orkney, who was made
Titular-Governor of Virginia in 1704, but never caine out to
his province. Nott's administration lasted only two years.
lamb of E^dward 7\lor!^
Rpyq] (governor of V/i'c^inia.- Obit' l']o6 —
the Jamestown ser-
vice, presented by
one Morrison to
the old Jamestown
Church, is of heavy
silver, rather
crudely fashioned,
and probaby made
in Jamestown,
where there were
capable artificers,
sent out among the
original companies.
The ''Queen Anne"
service is of gold,
and richly chased
with the arms of
Beauchamp, and of
another family.
The work is said to
have been done by
Harache, a French
emigre, who had
been in the employ
of the great Marl-
borough. The third,
a heavy silver-ser-
vice, was presented
to Christ Church,
Bruton Parish, by
George III: it bears
the royal arms
handsomely chased
on flagon, chalice
and paten, and is delicate'y wrought upon the edges with a
shell design. Drawings of these sacred vessels may be seen
in Ruck's "■ Old Flater
Architecturally, the interior of the church cor.tains very
little of interest. It is, however, rich in historical associa-
tions, and the imagination easily peoples the old place wiJi
the phantoms of departed greatness.
Up there, ill the gallery, sat the " quality," in the older
and he died in office, having won the affection of the colony time, when they came in their great state-coaches to church
by his wise and beneficent government. from their plantations on the York or the James. From
The large white marble monument of the Bray family, " Rosewell," over on the York, came the great Page family,
close by, is also imposing. The larger tombs are being the descendants of Colonel John Page, who, as we have seen,
cleaned and restored in a very satisfactory and intelligent was one of the original patrons of Bruton. At their splendid
way under the auspices of the lady parishioners of ]5ruton. house of Rosewell, and on their neighboring estate of Shelly
Those of Xott and Bray have been lifted out of the ground the Pages lived like the grand seigneurs they were. The old
into which ihey had partially sunk, and their carvings have Indian name of Shelly was " U'eromocomoco," and it was
CHRIST CHURCH, BRUTOX PARISH
17
here that grim old Powhatan set up his courl, and feasted
in royal state upon the luscious oysters of the York. The
Pages were great churchmen, and staunch upholders of the
Establishment. Their estates were of vast extent, and
Matthew Page, adding to them the great adjoining tract of
Timber Neck, in 1690, by his marriage with Mary Mann,
broadened the family acres into a princely domain. Mann
Page, his son, built Rosewell House, in 1725, having brought
the bulk of the material from England, as was usual in that
time. Rosewell is ninety feet square, an imposing pile, and
the interior was finished in all the elegance of wainscoted
walls, mahogany stairs and carved mantels.
The building of these splendid and costly manor-houses
in the infant colony, as yet hardly more than the unreclaimed
wilderness, was a curious instance of the ostentatious gran-
deur of the period, exaggerated as it was among these lordly
planters of Virginia, who emulated the pride and lu.xury of
their English prototypes.
Despite the wildness of the life they led, their society was
distinguished for courtliness of manners and for a boundless
hospitality, still an active principle in the households of their
descendants.
Educational facilities were very limited in the colony.
The sons of the richer families were sent to William and
Mary, or to England. Outside of these two resources there
was nothing. But, after all, they picked up, somehow, enough
learning to fit them to manage their plantations successfully,
to look after the growth and final sale of the great staple,
tobacco, to direct the training of their negroes in the trades
and avocations of varied kind* exercised upon the larger
places, to see to the importation of the household neces-
sities and luxuries from England and, above all, to acquit
themselves gallantly at race and rout, in the parlor or the
woodland camp. To the personal beauty of the women
who graced tlieir homes canvases by many a famous hand
bear witness, and that they practised all the ilomestic virtues
in a high degree in the midst of the reckless living, the prodi-
gal hospitality and wild profusion of the times, we have, also,
the amplest testimony. Then, as now, the reputable way-
farer in the Old Dominion found every door open to him, and
warm-hearted enteriainers eager to house and feed and help
him on his journey. Tlie taverns were small, comfortless
grogshops. The plantations were isolated, and, as there
were few roads worthy the name, communication between
them was mainly by the rivers upon which all the great places
were located. As the country became more settled and
roads were opened, the planters went-in for fine horses, and
set up their studs of hunters and racers, often bred from
famous imported sires of value. Their equipages were of
great splendor. General Spotswood, living in retirement at
Yorktown, advertises in the Virginia Gazette, in 1737. to sell
his "coach, chariot, chaise and coach-horses," and "one of
the best-made, handsomest and easiest chariots in London."
And so the great people drove in state to church, with pomp of
sleek, prancing coach-horses and splendor of crested panels.
.-\nd, standing here in the warm sunshine in the doorway
of the ancient house of God, we may fancy the Rosewell
coach reined up at the gates, and discharging its aristocratic
burden of satin-robed beauties and brave gentlemen on a
bright May morning in the late colonial times; and we may
see young Mr. Jefferson, at present an undergraduate of old
William and Mary, stejjping down, to hand out the lovely
mistress Rebecca Burwell, whom he adores just now, and
who had the distinguished honor of refusing the embryo
statesman's heart and hand somewhat later. We will picture
Mr. Jefferson to oui imagination as a rather slim and callow
youth, at this time, with curling locks of rufous gold, debo-
nair, and of courtly manner. With him is his friend, John
Page, of •' Rosewell," his chum at William and Mary, the fel-
low-patriot with whom he listened to the denunciatory thun-
derings of Henry in the House of Burgesses, and sweet Anne
Randolph, and his friend Ben Harrison. As they enter the
old church, wherein their ancestors have worshipped for gen-
erations, and, with rustling of skirts, preening of feathers and
smoothing of rumpled laces, march to their seats among the
aristocrats in the gallery, the admiring commoners look on
from their places on the floor below.
Williamsburg was always the great centre of fashion in
the old colony times. The " season " lasted during the
session of the House of Burgesses and the Supreme Court,
and when the time arrived for the meeting of those august
bodies, every considerable planter in the country round
bundled his family into the great state coach-and-six, and
drove up to the capital for a few weeks' of brilliant gayety.
The Royal Governors and other officers of the Crown vied
with one another, and with the citizens, in the splendor and
luxury of their dinners and balls. There were horse-races
and many other sports, and gambling ever fast and furious,
and now and then, at dawn of day, there was the gleam of
At Sunrise.
crossing swords or the pop of the duelling-pistol out behind
tlie town, on a sequestered bit of turf beneath the trees,
where hot-blooded gentlemen settled the undetermined issues
of the night, of love or play. There were feasting and danc-
ing at the Raleigh Tavern, and the plays of Shakespeare and
Congreve were given by the " Virginia Company," from Eon-
don ; and thus pleasantly did the life of the old capital roll
on up to the sterner times of the Revolution.
But, whatever wild gayety and dissipation ' may have filled
the week, old Christ Church of Bruton received them within
her venerable walls when the Sabbath came round, and with
becoming decorum these aristocratic squires and dames, and
beaux and belles, of the younger England, listened^ to the
word of God in the old fane of their forefathers.
' See note on .St. Peter's Cliurch. New Kent County, page 25.
2 '-Mr. Camm was succeeded bv tlie Rev. Mr. Sliiekls, who was
the minister to some now [i^>55] living. He was, it is believed,
an intellif;ent and pious man. Some thoufjht him rather too much
of a Methodist, I have it from relatives of one of the jjarty, tliat
a lady of the old seliool. at a time when stiff brocades were the
churcli dress of those who could afford it, would come home, after
.some of Mr. Shields's more animated discourses, and call upon her
maid to take off her clothes, for she had heard .so niucli of hell,
damnation and death, that it would take her all the evening to get
cool." — Ilis/iop Ml-ikIc.
i8
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
THE WYTHE HOi'SE. Wythe House with a manifestation, appearing in full ball-
JusT north of the church-yard, and fronting upon a grassy dress, with sweeping train of rich brocade and high-heeled
open known as "Palace Green," on the upper side of wliich scarlet slippers with diamond buckles,
stood Lord Dunmore's house, or ''the Governor's Palace," Yet another spectral tenant was known in the flesh as the
as it was called among the patriots of
'75, stands a line, old, square brick
house which, the inquiring stranger
will be informed, "was once General
Washington's headquarters." Histori-
cal accuracy, however, resolves this
tradition into the lesser fact that Wash-
ington spent the night at this house, the
home of his friend George Wythe, on
his way to join Lafayette at Yorktown
in the latter part of September, 1781.
'l"he old house is, however, quite in-
teresting on its own account, and on
going up to have a look at it, I was
very courteously admitted, and had the
pleasure of walking about the broad
hall and large square rooms, and the fur-
ther good fortune of hearing a sketch
of the history and a legend or two,
which, I think, I cannot do better than
transcribe here, as literally as may be.
The Wythe House, as this old home-
stead is called, was built by Colonel
Louis Taliaferro and given as a mar-
The Wythe House, Williamsburg.
consort of Governor John Page, who
purchased Wythe House upon the death
of Colonel Skipwith, and it is whispered
that even the stately wraith of the
Father of his Country himself, who was
always a great friend of Wythe's, has
been seen in the halls and on the broad
stairway.
Time would fail me to tell of the
weird sounds that are heard, the doors
that open without the touch of mortal
hands, the phantom shapes which have
been seen gliding through the corri-
dors. But, one and all, these ghosts
are ghosts of high degree and of un-
exceptionable deportment, and never
in the least have they encroached upon
the peace and comfort of the residents
of \\'ythe House.
There is nothing especially note-
worthy in the architecture of this old
mansion unless it is the air of solid
and substantial comfort which it wears.
The plan is a very simple one — a wide
riage portion to his daughter, the wife of George Wythe, central hall through the middle of the house, and two rooms
who, to quote one of his biographers, was "the pure and
virtuous Chancellor, a member of the House of Purgesses, a
signer of the Declaration of Independence, a Member of
Congress, Speaker of the House of Delegates, Judge of the
Court of Appeals, a member of the Conventions on the Con-
stitution of the United States, and Professor of Law at
William and Mary College. To him was reserved the honor
of devising the emblems and motto of the shield of Virginia."
Wythe enjoyed the intimacy of Jefferson, Mason, Washington,
and, in short, of the brightest minds of his day in Virginia.
The Chancellor's
on either side of this, each having three windows and a great
fireplace. I did not examine the arrangement of the second
story. The kitchens and offices are in a rear building.
?^-o^
end was a tragic one,
for he was poisoned
by a nephew to
whom he had be-
queathed a large
portion of his prop-
erty. Though he
died in Richmond,
Williamsburg claims
his ghost, and it is
said that on the anni-
versary of his death,
the 8th of June, a
shadowy form in an-
tique garb glides
from out the closet
of his chamber in
the old house, and a
cold hand is gently
laid upon the face of
the sleeper in the room. After the Chancellor's death the
property passed into the hands of Mr. Henry Skipwith, the
third husband of the beautiful Elizabeth Byrd, of Westover,
on ihe James.
'I'he wraith of the fair Elizabeth, also, occasionally honors
WILLIAM AND MARY COLLEGE.
The college buildings stand marshalled on three sides of
the old campus at the western end of Duke of Gloucester
Street, the main house facing toward the street, while the
President's house
and ISrafferton stare
at one another across
the campus. The
two latter are plain
square buildings of
considerable age.
The schools have
been three times de-
stroyed by fire. The
original buildings
were " the composi-
tion of Sir Christo-
pher VVren," and pre-
sumably very fine.
They were burned
in 1705, " the Gov-
ernor and all the
gentlemen that were
in town coming to
William and Mary College, Williamsburg. , , , ,
the lainentable spec-
tacle, many of them getting out of their beds." Of the second
structure^ we only know that Mr. Jefferson, who, by the way.
iThe third of the series is evidently meant here. The second
building, erected by Governor Spotswood, was burned in 1746,
when Jefferson was only three or four years old. — Eu.
WILLIAM AXD MARY.
19
was a tremendous critic in architectural matters, though
perhaps not always successful in the application of his
theories to practice, thought it looked very like a brick-kiln.
There is now very little of interest about the place from
an architectural point-of-view, or to one in search of the
picturesque.
The statue in white marble of Xorborne Berkeley, Baron
Botetourt, which stands in the centre of the campus, was
erected by the Assembly shortly after the death of Lord
Botetourt in 1770, in grateful memory of a governor who was
everywhere esteemed througliout the colony. He was a
liberal patron of the college, to which he gave many prizes,
and at the time of his death he was earnestly striving to win
from the home government repeal of the acts which had
given such offense to the colonists. The ravages of time or
fortunes of war have despoiled the marble baron of his aris-
tocratic nose, and some night-prowling and irreverent under-
urged that Virginians had souls to save as well as the Eng-
lish, he thundered out, "Souls! Damn your souls! Make
tobacco ! "
In the library, among many costly treasures in rare old
volumes and prints, are two portraits of Parson Blair done
at different periods in his stormy and eventful life.
^^cj^
THE POWDER-HOUSE, WILLIAMSBURG.
There are to be seen at the post-office, in Williamsburg,
some interesting old files of tlie Virginia Gazette, started at
Williamsburg in 1736, the first, and for many years the only,
newspaper published in the colony. Its columns contained
local news, the latest advices from England and the Con-
tinent— not more than a month or two out of date — the
graduate had, at the time of my visit, affixed a gory streak of fortnightly mail from the North and the monthly post from
red sealing wax across the august countenance, lending an 'he South, dignified commentaries on current topics, and ad-
ensanguined and hostile look to the benign features. vertisements of quaint and curious flavor. Among the locals
Old William and Mary enjoys the distinction of being, this one about the old powder-house affair is worth reading :
after Harvard, the oldest college in America, and she has "This morning, between three and four o'clock, all the
counted among her sons
very many of the great
ones of our land, having
"sent out for their work in
the world twenty-seven
soldiers of the Revolution,
two attorney-generals,
nearly twenty members of
Congress, fifteen senators,
seventeen governors, tliirty-
seven judges, a lieutenant-
general and other officers,
two commodores, twelve
professors, four signers of
the Declaration, seven
cabinet officers, a chief
justice, and three presi-
dents of the Republic."
In colonial times it was
the only educational estab-
lishment of the rank of a college in all Virginia, and directed
the intellectual training of a majority of the best men in the
colony, although a very aristocratic few of the sons of the
wealthier families were sent over to Eton and Oxford.
The history of tiie college is closely interwoven with that
of James Blair, Commissary to tiie Bishop of London and
Rector of Bruton Parish, who was its founder, first president
and lifelong defender. The colony sent him to England on
a mission to King William in behalf of the projected insti-
tution, and he returned in 1693 with the charter of the col-
lege signed by their majesties, \\'illiam and Mary. It
was liberally endowed with rich lands, a sum of /'2,ooo,
arrears of quit-rents, one penny per pound on exports of
tobacco, the office-fees and emolunienis of Surveyor-general
and a seat in the Assembly, and was founded as '" a semin-
ary of ministers of the Gospel where youths may be piously
educated in good letters and manners ; a certain place of
universal study, or perpetual college of divinity, philosophy,
language, and other good aris and sciences."
The English Attorney-general Seymour, when ordered to
draw up the charter, objected to tlie expenditure of public
funds for making divinity-students while England was at
war and wanting soldiers, and to the redoubtable Pilair, who
The Nfkon House, Yorktown.*
powder in the magazine to
the amount, as we hear, of
twenty barrels, was carried
off in His Excellency the
Governor's wagon escorted
by a detachment of marines
from the armed schooner
'■Magdalen,' now lying at
Burwell's Ferry, and
lodged on board that ves-
sel " — whereupon "the
whole city was alarmed
and greatly exasperated."
In a later issue, account
is given of indignation-
meetings among tlie citi-
zens, and the full text of a
long-winded and eloquent
address of remonstrance
by the Hon. Peyton Ran-
dolph and a deputation, upon hearing which Lord Dunmore
flies into a fine rage, and talks of burning the town.
A few days after, we read, the people seize all the arms in
the powder-house, and His Lordship sends over to the
" Fowey," lying at Yorktown, for troops. A squad of soldiers
are marched over to Williamsburg, and mount guard on
Palace Green before the Governor's house. The ^'' Fowey' s"
captain meanwhile has informed Mr. Thomas Nelson, the
principal citizen of Yorktown, that in case the Williams-
burgers attack his men the guns of the "Fowey" will
open upon Yorktown without furtner warning. The warlike
•TiiK Nf.i.sox Housk, Yokktown'. — Down tlie peninsula
from West Point is one of the dead ])laccs of this more than alive
contiiiL'iit. 'I'liis (juaint old remnant of a town, with its glorious
jiast. situated on one of tlie finest harbors in the world, contains
four si)ots of especial interest: The first Custom-house of the
United States; the Moore House, where the capitulation of
Coruwallis's surrender was signed ; the beautiful monument raised
in i.SSi l)y the Cnited States to commemorate tlie surrender of
Coruwallis, and the Nelson House, whose grim walls contain the
shells of the Revolution imbedded therein. The spacious interior
of this old mansion has echoed with the tread of Washini;tou,
Lafayette, Coruwallis, 'I'lionias Jefferson and many another fjjreat
man. 'I'he last Nelson has left it and it stands tenantless await-
in;,' the fate it deserves, the protection of the t'niled .States
Covernment. S". N. R.
20
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
aspect of affairs fii)ally reaches a climax wiien news is brought
that Patriclc Henry is marching on the capital, at the head of
5,000 men, to demand redress of these tyrannous abuses.
In the last chapter of the story Lord Dunmore pays the
value of the powder, and Mr. Henry's forces disband and
return to their homes.
The powder-house, now called the " Old Powder Horn,"
was built by Alexander Spotswood' early in the eighteenth
century. This Governor is said to have done more for the
general improvement of the colony than any of his prede-
cessors. He was the son of a distinguished Scottish cava-
lier who had died upon the scaffold for devotion to his King.
Tile Powder house, Williamsburg.
A brave soldier — he served, it is said, on the staff of Marl-
borough— and a most accomplished gentleman, Spotswood
possessed administrative abilities of a high order. His
policy of peace with the Indians was eminently successful,
and his project of requiring the chiefs of tribes to send their
sons to be trained in the schools of the whites was productive
of great good.
The most picturesque incident of Governor Spotswood's
rule was his leading a party of young explorers from
Williamsburg across the Alleghanies and into the unknown
regions beyond. It was a royal frolic, and in about six
weeks the expedition rode back covered with glory and
stocked with romantic stories of the marvels of that ultitna
Thitle, the beautiful Valley of Virginia. Spotswood dubbed
his young adventurers "Knights of the Horseshoe," and be-
fore disbanding the company he gave them each a golden
horseshoe to be worn thereafter upon the lapel in memory
of the affair. King George hearing of these brave doings
intimated his gracious pleasure by sending over to Spots-
wood a little jewelled horseshoe and a baronetcy.
On leaving office, the Governor retired to his country-seat
at Germanna, whither came Colonel Byrd, of Westover, in
due course, to visit his old-time friend, finding "Colonel
Spotswood's enchanted castle on one side of the street and
a baker's dozen of ruinous tenements on the other side; there
was, also, a chapel about a bow's-shot from the Governor's
house, at the end of an avenue of cherry-trees," and the
Governor's iron foundries, the first in the colony.
The old powder-house, to return from our little digression,
is a tall, eight-sided brick tower crowned with a high conical
roof. The double wall has fallen in on one side and bulges
' On November 1 1, 1896, Williamsburg was the scene of a con-
siderable festivity, the occasion being the unveiling of a memorial
stained-glass window placed in the old ■' I'owder Horn "' by a
descendant of (lovernor Spotswood. 'I'lie design of the glasswork
includes a three-t|uarter-length portrait of the (iovernor, his armo-
rial bearings and family devices. IJeneath the glass is a brass
tablet which records tliat :
" In memory of William Francisco Spotswood tliis is erected :
To preserve the honor of Alexander Spotswood, who, under Anne
and (leorge, Sovereigns, by the (".race of God, of England, Scot-
land. Ireland and France, served as Lieutenant-Governor of the
I'rovince of \'irginia, from the year 1710 to the year 1722." — Eij.
badly on the other faces, the decaying roof-timbers threaten
to collapse, and the handsome wrought-iron finial leans dis-
mally askew. 'I'he " Old Powder-horn " is almost a wreck,
indeed. The surroundings are not what one could wish for
so interesting a relic ; in fact, the old magazine stands in a
stable-yard, and is partly hid from the view of the passer-by
on Duke of Gloucester Street by tall and very unbeautiful
board fences. A movement is on foot to purchase the build-
ing, with a small plat of ground about it, from the present
rather unappreciative owner. When this much may be ac-
complished, it is proposed to rebuild the fallen wall with the
old bricks, which lie where they fell, to tie the walls securely,
to support the roof with some auxiliary framing, and so to
arrest the threatened collapse of the tower. But a small
sum will be needed to carry out the work.-
Q
a
JAMESTOWN CHURCH.
The road from Williamsburg to the ancient site of James-
town, assuredly not among the best of roads, passes out of
the town by the campus of old Williain and Mary, and, bears
off toward the southwest over a rolling country. Plunging
into little valleys, scaling steep, short hills, winding through
belts of the forest primeval, or diving into dark, damp places
where gnarled roots and stumps cotnbine with mud-holes of
amazing muddiness to produce an interesting variety of sensa-
tions, the old road ineanders on toward the river, growing
ever worse. Descending at last into a reedy marsh of broad
extent, which is crossed upon
a bed of roughest corduroy,
bearing evidence of complete
submergence at high water,
and suggestive of being a
very uncomfortable place on
a dark night and a full tide,
and on the farther side of the
marsh going over a shaky
bridge which spans the inside
channel of the river, the road
arrives upon the historic soil
of Jamestown Island.
From this point there form-
erly stretched to the mainland
a narrow neck of land, where
readers of colonial history will
The Church Tower, Jamestown.
remember Sir William Berkeley and his motley troop from
Accomack making their famous stand against the invading
army of the rebel Bacon. But the isthmus is long since
sunk out of sight, and now the yellow waters of the James
lap all sides of the foriner peninsula. The island contains
nearly seventeen hundred acres, lying in a long, narrow
strip of land, two-thirds of whose entire area is marsh sub-
ject to overflow. Near the western end of the island is the
" The work of restoration here spoken of as desirable has since
been carried out through the efforts of certain associations of ladies
who have patriotically made it their task to preserve some of the
interesting relics of early Mrginian times. Not only has the old
I'owder House been restored by these ladie.s, but they have also
purchased the Mary Washington house in Fredericksburg, in
which the mother of Washington lived and died: rendered ma-
terial aid in the restoration of old St. Luke's Church, in Isle of
Wight County, the oldest Protestant church in this country, and
done equal justice to Christ Church, in Lancaster County, and have
made efforts towards the preservation of what still remains of
Jamestown. It is comforting to believe that this movement will
gain strength with the passage of time. — Ed.
JAMESTOWN CHURCHES.
21
crumbling, mossy, ivy-grown ruin of a brick cliurch-tower,
about all that is left of the ancient place. Standing in a
copse of fine old trees, the ruined tower is very picturesque,
and has an interest in itself apart from that which clings to
it as the old-time place of worship of that wonderful band of
adventurers who founded Jamestown, the first permanent
English settlement in America. The tower is eighteen feet
square, and is pierced on two of its sides by high, round-
arched openings. It is built of a small, dull-red English
brick laid in the Flemish bond.
Beyond it the foundations of the old church are traceable,
covering an oblong space of twenty-eight (28) by fifty-si.x
(56) feet, and close by is a wall built in the latter part of
the eighteenth century from the ruined wall of the old
enclosure around about one-third of the original churchyard.
Within are some ancient tombs, upon which one deciphers,
under the moss and rime, quaint epitaphs of Amblers and
Jacquelines, Sudwells and Lees.' Of these, the Jacquelines
and Amblers for many generations were the principal own-
ers of the island, as the Lees and Sudwells were of Green
Spring, some few miles distant, and famous as the home and
place of retirement of that staunch old royalist. Sir William
Berkeley. After that dismal morning in 1649 at Whitehall,
the old cavalier, his governorship given to the hated Round-
head, his idol dead, the faith for which he liad lived and
would gladly have died, i\\t jus divinuvi, trampled under foot
by clods and boors, found in peaceful rural life, in the
company of his wife and friends at his modest house at
Green Spring, a balm for all his wounds. Here he waited
and watched events, through those long, stern years of the
Protectorate, until "Noll" was gone and the son of Charles
had come unto his own again, when the fierce old knight
held the reins once more over the young colony. Berkeley
died in England in 1677, leaving Green Spring to his widow,
who afterward married Colonel Philip Sudwell.
'Stratfokd Hf)rsK, Wkstmorki-And Co., \'.\. — It is very
fortunate for tiie present occupants tliat •■ .Stratford " is so inac-
cessible both to the idolaters of Ceneral Robert K. l.ee. for in
this house he was born, and to those who liave an arcl;iteclural
" Something special in the way of notice is due to the con-
dition of the tombs of Commissary and Mrs. Blair, the latter
being the daughter of Philip Sudwell, of Green Spring, who
married Sarah Grymes, of Middlesex. The tombs were
placed side by side, and were very heavy and strong. The
platform, sides and ends were of white freestone, and the
interior filled with bricks well cemented. The top slabs, on
which the inscriptions were made, are of dark ironstone or
black marble. A sycamore shoot sprang up between the
graves, and is now a large tree. In its growth it embraced,
on one end and on the top, the tomb of Mrs. Blair, one-
third of which lies embedded
in the body of the tree and is
held immovable. All the in-
terior, consisting of brick, and
two of the side stones, have
been entirely forced out of
their places by the tree, and
lie scattered around, while the
dark ironstone is held in the
air three feet above the sur-
face of the earth, fast bound
by the embrace of the body of
the tree into which it is sunk
between one and two feet, the
inscription being only par-
tially legible. On the other
side, the whole tomb of Com-
missary Blair has been forced
from its place by the roots
and body of the tree, and is broken to pieces in all its parts."
This account of the old graveyard is from Bishop Meade's
" Old Churches" and the date of the ruined tower is discussed
at some length by the same eminent authority, who says :
"As there are conflicting opinions concerning the date of
the erection of this old church — some affirming that what
we see are the ruins of that which was destroyed in Bacon's
Rebellion, while others affirm the building of a new one
after that event — we will briefly state the facts bearing on
the case. Tiie history of the succession of the Jamestown
churches is as follows : The first place of worship, as
from the landing and the walking; over the \'irginian country road
is not of tlie best. Architecturallv, Stratford is of mucli interest
bv reason of its huge cliimnev-stacks and tlic fact that the house is
entered at tlie tirst-story level. 'I'he present structure was built to
Jamestown.
^<l^^
Slralford Hniifo, Wislnicrel.ird ('n., V.t.
or historical interest in the buildings of the Colonial times. 1 he
boat touches at the primitive landing nearest to the place Roini;
but does not stoj) on the way back, so that as there are only two
trips a week the unwary traveller may find liimself unsxpictedly
stranded for two or tluee davs, at a place where tliere is no hotel
to take refuge in. liesides tliis. Stratford, itself, is s;veral miles
rejjlace tlie cirii;inal house destroyed by fire, whereof the destruc-
tion liad so moved Oueen Caroline that, although she knew the
owner. Mr. Tliomas l.ee, only by reputation, she sent hini money
to be used in rebuilding. .Stratford House, therefore, dates from
early in the second <|uarter of the eighteenth centurv. and is a
token of tlie generous sympathy of tlie wife of ( Icorge II. — Ym.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
described by Captain Smith, was made of tlie awning, or old
sails, taken from vessels and fastened to trees. The second
was a very plain log building, which was burned down in the
second or third year of the colony, during the ministry of
the Rev. Mr. Hunt."
In his ''History of Virginia" Captain Smith, himself,
writes at some length about the church and its pastor :
" The log church firll erected was burned down the fol-
lowing winter with many other houfes. Mr. Hunt loft all
his books and everything elfe but the clothes on his back.
Yet none ever faw him repine at his lofs."
Robert Hunt came over in 1606 with the first company,
and was bv all accounts a most noble character.
THLS is probably as appropriate a point as any to interject such
material as we have been able to gather relating to the eccle-
siastical architecture of the period in \'irginia. so sharply varied in
character, so ditterent from tlie colonial churclies of New England,
not only in material but in design. The following disjoined notes
are therefore inserted here. — Ku.
CrxNiXGHAM CiiAPEL. Cl.vukk Co., \'a. — '• Aniong the first
tilings done by the vestry of Frederick, after its reorganization in
1787, was the adoption of measures for the building of a stone
chapel where it was designed to erect that one wliich failed,
through the disagreement of the people and vestry, just before the
Revolution, viz, where that called Cunningham's Chapel stood.
The land having now come into the possession of Colonel Na-
thaniel ISurwell, the same two acres for a church and burying-
ground, which were offered by Colonel Hugh Nelson before the
war, were now given by Colonel liurwell. and the present stone
chapel was ordered to be built in i 790. At what time it was com-
pleted does not appear, but probably in the same year." — Bishop
Meade's " Old CJifiriJies and FamiUes of l^irginia.'''
Between the years 1740 and 1750, Cunningham Chapel, a log
structure, was built at a cost of ^49 Virginia money. About i 790
this was replaced l)v a stone church, near the same spot and upon
the two acres of land given by Colonel Nathaniel liurwell for a
church and a cemetery. This is by far the most interesting .spot
in the county. . . . Thev have a custom in this unique com-
munity of meeting on All Saint's Day to bring flowers with which
to honor the graves of their ancestors. 'Tis a reverent ceremony
and full of love, yet it is also a joyous time, usually a time of
radiant sunshine and beauty and also of l)ecoming autumnal
sadness.
Modern churches have accommodated modern needs, but mid-
summer brings eacli year the divided neighborhood together, and
once again they kneel around the cliancel and do as their fathers
did. The selfsame velvet bag at the end of a long rod receives
The Cunningham (Jhajiel, commonly known as "Old Ch;ipel," Clarke Co., Va.
[Date, 17'jo.l
the coin, and the tall-backed pews almost liide each from his neigh-
l)or. "I'is hut a step into the cemetery, and here the great, great
ij^raiuU hild will visit the toml) of liis fathers and know liis place
" Upon any alarm he was as ready at defence as any, and
till he could not fpeak he never ceafed to his utmoft to ani-
mate us continually to perlift."
The "■ Advertiseinetiis for the Unexperienced Planters of New
England or Else^vhere, etc," a pamphlet published by John
Smith in 1631, contains a more detailed account of the
churches during his stay in the colony :
"When I went firft to Virginia, I well remember, we did
hang an awning — which is an old fail — to three or four
trees, to fliadow us from the fun ; our walls were rails of
wood, our feats were unhewed trees till we cut planks, our
pulpit a bar of wood nailed to two neighboring trees; in foul
weather we fliifted into an old rotten tent, for we had few
will be among them. Many wander far away from it, but all
return to die and rest under the shadow of its trees after the last
service is done. So all these I'ages, and IJurwells, and Nelsons,
and Whitings, and Harrisons, and Randolphs, and Meades, and
Cookes, and Carters, these all have lived upon this soil, and now
hundreds of them lie buried beneath a dear sod, awaiting a blessed
resurrection. — M. P. Dtival.
Wai^e Church, Gloucester Co., Va. — Recalling the archi-
tectural characteristics of Christ Church, Alexandria, of Bruton
Church, and of St. Peter's, buildings that may be called complete
i.rs.j
■ Airangrment of brick work ■
■Light and. d^rk
Ware Church, Gloucester Co , Va.
in ecclesiastical architectural forms, we made especial efforts to
procure illustrations of the churches at Ware and Abingdon, which
from several different sources we learned had the reputation of
being the " most interesting colonial churches in \'irginia." It
was then with a pardonable feeling of disappointment that we
subsequently discovered that Ware Church is exteriorly but a
simple little brick structure with a pitch roof, tlie wooden cornice
at the eaves rather crudely treated and the door and window treat-
ment giving no evidence beyond good straiglitforward work of any
especial care on the part of the designer. \'ery likely the reputa-
tion of the little building rests on its interior treatment, but of this
we have been able to learn nothing. But its simplicity bespeaks
its age and at tlie same time seems to give the lie to the date
asserted to belong to St. Luke's, at Smithfield. — Ed.
St. Luke's, S.mithfiei.d. — "The present village was incor-
porated in 1752. It finished its growth a long time ago, when it
had acquired a population of about one thousand. It is not a
dihijiidated town, liowever, but seems fairlv prosperous, with
a good class of dwellings and a very few handsome ones. All in
all, it is very attractive, with fine, old-fashioned, colonial-looking
houses in large, pleasant grounds, with abundant and large shade-
trees. It is at tile head of the creek, also known as Warraskovack,
under many spellings, five or six miles off the James. Just before
reaching the village the creek doubles on itself, running back at
the foot of a high ridge to form a long peninsula. Among the
residents this is now known as Pagan creek, or river; whether in
remembrance of its ancient or modern inhabitants does not appear.
When they want an ' appropriation ' it is Pagan river, as, in its
beneficence. Congress draws the line at creeks.
" To most readers Smithfield is only associated with a brand of
ham. There is, in fact, a ham factory, whose product is held in
high repute. Where they procure the raw material is not evident.
The ' Isle of Hogges,' where the first colonists sent their swine
to live as best they might on what they should find or turn up. is
VIRGINIA CHURCHES.
better, and this came by way of adventure for new. This
was our church till we built a homely thing like a barn, fet
up on crotchets, covered with rafts, fedge and earth ; fo was
alfo the walls. The bell of our houfes were of the like curi-
ofity, but the moft part far much worfe workmanfliip, that
could neither well defend wind nor rain; yet we had daily
Common Prayer morning and evening, every Sunday two
fermons, and every three months the holy communion till
our minifter died. . . ."'
During Smith's survey of the Chesapeake, not the least of
his great achievements, the Indians burned the church. He
had it rebuilt at once upon his return. " Now the building
of the palace was flayed as a thing needlefs, and the church
was repaired."
a few miles above, in the James. In driving about we saw only a
few razor-backs that looked as though they niii;ht have been an
escape from the original drove. The quality of the hams, eaten,
as it were, on their native heath, is undeniably good. What your
grocer sells you under this laljel, ' well, that is another story.'
Sweet-potatoes, and especially peanuts, are a large article of
export.
" Nearly all the houses have been built lona; enough to have a
somewhat old-time air about them. Many date from about the
beginning of the century, and a half dozen from the incorporation
of the town. As interesting as any is the old court-house, built
Of the further history of the churches, Meade continues:
"The third was a larger and better one, probably of wood,
built during the presidency of Captain Smith, and in a ruin-
ous or neglected condition when Lord De La War arrived,
in 1611, who immediately ordered that the church be
thoroughly repaired. Strachey, Secretary and Recorder of
the colony, gives this description of it : ' It is in length
three-fcore foot, in breadth twenty-four, and fliall have a
chancel in it of cedar, a communion-table of black walnut,
and all the pews of cedar, with fair, broad windows, to fliut
and open — as the weather fliall occafion — of the fame wood,
a pulpit of the fame, with a font hewn below like a canoe,
with two bells at the well end. It is fo cafle, as it be very
light within, and the Lord Governor and Captain-General
leading to it. lieyond. the road winds pleasantly amonjj fields of
peanut-s and sweet-potatoes. We come finally to a wooded ravine,
througli which flows a clear, swift-running brook, a veritable
phenomenon in this part of the country. At the foot of a rock is
a spring, considerably walled up, with a nice new oyster-shell from
which the weary traveller may cjuench his thirst. At the top of
the hill beyond, in the midst of a grove of large native trees, oaks,
button-wood and walnut, venerable with thrice the supposititious
years of ■ the many-wintered crow,' stands the oldest J'rotestant
Churcli building in America. It was built in 1632, only ten years
after the Indian massacre.
.St. Lulte's, .Siiiitlifit
about an even hundred years ago. It has long been transformed
into a dwellinji, the county scat havinji been removed to Isle of
Wijjht. In this house the wife of the late (General Mahone was
born and raised. The front has been modernized bv the addition
of porches, l)ut the back part remains unaltered. There was the
judge's bencli, the bar and jury-box. the court-room extendint; for-
ward toward the street. The small brick building on the corner
was the clerk's office, and remains unchanj^ed.
" liut the object of chief interest, that wliich brought the writer
to Smithfield. is not there, but five miles out on tlie Suffolk road.
We cross a Kickety drawhridije over a branch of the creek, which
eats its way indefinitely uj) into the land. There is a long stretch
of salt marsh, with its corduroy a foot under water at high-tide.
Id. [Date, 1632.I
" At that time the entire population was Episcopalian, but finally
conditions changed, old families moved away, other denominations
sprang up and the service in the old church could no longer be
kept up. The years went by. and it was abandoned and left to
desolation. The roof-tree fell in, the windows rotted away and it
stood forlorn, a thing of dread to children and a sad memento to
the old of the vicissitude of things.
•■ So wide an interest attached to the building that an effort was
made to restore it. Contributions were ol)tained from various
Ijarts of the country, and two years ago |iS(;4]the church was
rededicated and services are again held. Within, it is, of course,
entirelv new. Without, a few dozen bricks only were needed.
•• Tlie interior is handsomely finished. The ' pictured panes'
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
doth caufe it to be kept paflnig fweet, and trimmed up
with divers flowers, with a fexton belonging to it. Every
Sunday, wiien tlie Lord Governor and Captain-General goeth
to church, he is accompanied by all the counfellors, cap-
tains, other officers and all the gentlemen, with a guard of
Halberdiers in his Lordiliip's livery of fair red cloakes, to
the number of fifty, on each fide and behind him. His
Lordlhip iiath his feat in the Quoir, in a great velvet chair,
with a cloth, with a velvet culhion fpread before him, on
which he kneeleth, and on each fide fit the council, captains
and officers, each in their place, and when he returnetli home
again he is waited on to his houfe in the fame manner.'
are the gift of individual donors and societies. Behind the altar is
a handsome and, lor the size of the building, large memorial win-
dow. In the floor of tlie chancel are sot two tombstones, brought
from the old Hridger estate, a few miles away. The inscription of
the one, in capital letters, the dash showing the division on the
stone, is as follows : 'Sacred — To ye Memory of — The Honble
Jol'eph Bridger — Kfq., Councelr of State in \'irginia — to King
Charles ye 2d — Dying April ve 15, 1686 — Aged 59 Yeares —
Mournfully Left His Wife, 3 Sons & 4 Daughters.' Below is a
long eulosv in verse, written without division into lines on the
stone. 1 quote four oat of the twelve : ' Here lies ye late great
niinider of State. That Royal virtues had and Royal fate To
Charles his Councels did such hon'rs bring. His own exprefs
fetched him r" attend ye King.' This man was the paymaster
general of the liritish troops in America during the liacon rebel-
hon, exactly a hundred years before tlie revolutionary war. His
father was the man wlio built the church.
" In a country where we have no great antiquities, or none left
by our race, so new upon this continent, such a memorial, cover-
ing almost the entire period of our history, slujuld have an ex-
traordinary interest, which must deepen as the generations go by.''
— Wcisliington Star, September, 1896.
R«ar View of Christ Churcli, Lancaster Co , Va., near Carter's Creek, Rappalianock Kiver, 1732
Christ Church, Laxcastkr Co., \ .\. — The Philadelphia
Times published, January 0, 1898, the following account of a build-
ing which should be
deserving sometime of
a complete architect-
ural record : "In a
remote corner of Lan-
caster County, Va., is
an old Colonial church
whicli is generally coii-
ceded to be the quaint-
est Ijuilding in \'irginia,
and is said to have the
distinction of being
the only church in this
country which yet re-
mains exactly as it was
in Colonial davs.
Other Colonial
churches still standing
have been so much
'restored' that it is
well-ni<;h impossible to
gain from theiu an ex-
act idea of what they
formerly w;ere. This
old Christ Church,
thanks probably to its inacce.ssil3le location and tlie consequent
withdrawal of its congregation to other churches, has had no alter-
ations whatever made in it excepting tliose caused by time : these
it has withstood to a remarkable degree, owing to its sturdy and
solid construction.
"The church was built in the year 1732 on the site of an older
one, which had been erected nearly seventy years before. Much
of the same material wliich had done service in the first church
was used in building the second. The old tombstones, bearing
dates of 1669, 1674, etc., were carefully removed into it, as was
also the vestry-book of the parish, kept from the year 1654 to
1770, a volume of great value and interest. Recently the Society
for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities has been impressed
with the importance of caring for so uni(|ue a relic, and has
donated a sum to be used in preserving the building.
" The location of the church makes it inaccessible save by a
day"s journey by river, so comparatively few have ever seen it.
On our arrival, we found the quaintest building it had ever been
our good fiirttme to come across. (Uiarded by an old colored
man, who lived in a shanty across the roadside, who fairly beamed
with delight on seeing u.s, for visitors are scarce in that out-of-the-
way spot, the church, which he regarded with the pride of pro-
prietorship, never fails to elicit admiration from all. Accord-
ingly, Uncle 'l"om conducted us with much ceremony into the
church, which is built in the shape of a (Ireek cross, with four
beautiful arches sup])orting tlie centre and forming a loftv dome,
where the arms of the cross deflect. The brick walls are 3 feet
thick. The pulpit is perched hij^h up in the air on the side of the
nortlieast archway, and to get into it one has to perforin the rather
difficult feat of climbing the narrow winding stairway, now in a
very rickety condition.
" Over the pulpit is a quaint sounding-board, and at the foot of
the winding-stair is the old-time clerk's desk. These, and also the
communion-taljle, pews and massive door.s, are of solid black-
walnut, carved by hand. The pews are square, with backs so high
that while sitting or kneeling their occupants are entirely hidden,
.Small chance there of stealing a glance at pretty neighbors across
the way, for as old Uncle Tom remarked, with a chuckle, ' There
warn't notliing to do but jest look at the preacher or take a nap.'
This preacher, it may be mentioned, received for salary 16,000
pounds of tobacco a year, as was the custom in early Virginia.
To raise this, it being a State church, the vestry assessed each
man in tlie county a certain amount of tobacco, which he was
compelled by law to pay, whether he attended the church or not.
" One of the pews was dedicated to the use of the county magis-
trate, justice of the peace and sheriff, who filed solemnly in of a
.Sunday with all the dignity befitting the ujjholders of the law.
Opposite and facing the pulpit is the largest pew in the church,
whose size ecpials that of a ball-room. It has seats around all four
sides. Its backs are nearly five feet high, and were formerly sur-
mounted by brass rods, which held thick damask curtains, so that
^ even when standing
^ those inside could
neither see nor be seen.
" This pew, our guide
informed us, belonged
to Robert Carter
(which he pronounced
' Ky-arter,' with that
delightful inimitable
Mrginian accent), who
was commonly called
' King,' on account of
his great wealth and
social importance. He
owned 300,000 acres
of land and 3,000 ne-
groes, and is one of the
best-known characters
of early days. He
was treasurer of the
colony for many years.
Governor, speaker of
the House of Bur-
gesses and president of
the Council in 1726,
'■He. it seems, was the builder of the church. In the vestry-
book his name comes before even that of the minister. The whole
north side of the building was given up 'for all time to come' to
the use of his servants and dependents, and none of the coniTega-
tion ever thought of entering the church until the Carter coach
had arrived, and 'King' Carter and his family had taken their
places. The aisles are formed of massive pieces of freestone, and
are as solid and smooth to-day as when they were first laid, nearly
two hundred years ago. The original communion-service is pre-
served in good condition. It is of silver, and was brought over
from England.
" Under the pulpit is placed for safe keeping a relic of unusual
interest in the shape of an old cedar dial-post, which formerly
stood outside the door. On it is still legible the name of John
Carter and the date of i 702. This post was one of the relics of
the older church, which had been built by John Carter, father
of the ' King.' One of the tomi^s which were moved from the
older church is in memory of this John Carter and his wives, of
whom there seems to have been a goodly number. The epitaph
mentions no less than the appalling sum of five, who, it adds, ' were
all his wives successively and died before him.' This tomb bears
the date 1669. In the centre of the building is a flat let into the
stone floor just at the cro.ssing of the ai.sles. This, legend says,
was placed there in memory of a plasterer, who fell while working
on the lofty dome and was killed on the spot.
" Outside is the little gravevard which all old churches have.
VIRGINIA CHURCHES.
25
"This was doubtless the same," says Meade, "in which
Governor Yeardley, with the Councillors and Burgesses,
held their legislative session in 1619 ; and, as we read of no
other church being built between that time and 1676, when
the town and church were burned down by Bacon, it is most
probable that this was the building. In opposition to the
theory that the present are the ruins of the old church which
was burned in the rebellion, is the fact that the dimensions
of the church which Smith built and Lord De La War re-
paired were dififerent from the one whose ruins are now
with here and there the gleam of a marble slab or headstone show-
ing through the clinging masses of iv)' and periwinkle which cover
it. ' King ' Carter's tomb, originally very massive and handsome,
with the Carter coat-of-arms cut upon it, is now broken and de-
faced, and lies in fragments. Much of it has been carried off by
relic hunters. Several years ago a gang of men, believing the
tradition that 'King' Carter had been buried with many of his
diamonds and other jewels upon him, broke an entire side off
the massive tomb and dug up the coffin. This act aroused
the people of the neighborhood to such an extent that had the
thieves been caught, there is small doubt but that they would have
been put forthwith into • King' Carter's place. Yox many years
services were held in the church only once a year, but of late even
this has been discontinued, and the old building would have been
seen. The dimensions of the former were twenty-four by
si.xty ; those of the latter twenty-eight by fifty-si.x. Other
circumstances there are which render it almost certain that
another church had been built since the destruction of the
one by Bacon. Not only was there a goodly number of
families residing in the place for some time after this, but
the Court-house and House of Burgesses were there until
the removal of the seat of government to Williamsburg after
the year 1705. Although the governors may have lived at
Green Spring, yet some of the officers of the Government
thus on that statement : " Where gambling, racing, and even the
low practice of cock-fighting were encouraged, there were the lost
estates, the ruined, scattered families; there were the blasted
hopes of parents, the idle, intemperate sons and the sacrificed
daughters." Another clergyman of the day, writing to the Bishop
of London about this county, says : " The great cause of all which
I humbly conceive to bj in the clergy, the sober part being sloth-
ful and negligent, and others so debauched that tht-y are the fore-
most and most bent on all manner of vices. Drunkenness is the
common vice." Yet it was in this parish and only four miles from
this church tliat Mrs. Martha Custis had her home in the "White
House" — whence, legend has it, the name of the present presi-
dential mansion at Washington — and, as some say. it was in this
very church that she was wedded to Colonel Washington, by the
Old Si. Feter'.s Cluirch [tliird in age in \'iryinia], New Kent Cn., Va. [I)ate, 1703 \
left to the mercy of the elements but for the interest recently
awakened in it."
St. Pf.ti:ii"s Church, Nkw Kknt Co., \'a. — St. Peter's
Church was built in i 703 and was paid for by the sale of forty-si.x
thousand hundred-weight of tobacco, but probably even this
amount of potential smoke did not cover the cost of the steeple,
which was not built till twelve years later. ISislmp Meade takes
pains to make his readers understand that New Kent County was
a very sink of inifpiity and that the clergymen tlicmselves were
leaders in all debauching excesses. One of the clergvmen of the
time writes that cards, racing, dancing and cock-fighting were
prevalent in this parisli, and the good ISishop on his part moralizes
Rev. Mr. Mossom, who, while he may have been an improvement
on otlier incumbents of the parish, was, none tlie less, a peculiar
individual, and amongst other eccentricities once assailed his ])ari.sh
clerk from the pulpit during a sermon. The clerk, who seems to
have had a due respect for the proprieties which day and place
imposed on him, evened the score by giving out at the end of the
.sermon the psalm in which occur these lines: —
" With restless and iMigoverned rage.
Why del the heathen storm ?
Wliy i:i sncli ra^li attempts engage
As they can ne'er perfoirn?"
Other accounts have it that Washington's marriage was cele-
brated in Old I'ohick Cliiirch. near .MoiDil V'enion. -- V.\i.
26
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
belonging to the port and legislature were there; and it is
not to be supposed that they would live for thirty years
without a church.'
Our Reverend author goes on to cite the circumstance of
Governor Andros presenting communion-plate to the James-
town Church in 1694, that a silver font was given to it by
the Amblers, which is still in evidence, and that no marks
of fire are discoverable about the ruins, and he finally con-
cludes "that the ruins which we now behold are those of a
church put up since the rebellion of Bacon in 1676." As
one sees the old tower standing, dismantled, but beautiful,
among the ancient, stately trees, memory almost uncon-
sciously tries to rehabilitate the times and the men who have
made tlie place famous in the world's history. Foremost of
them all stands forth the grand plebeian name of John Smith,
\ 1 • ,1.
Werowocomoco. The stone of which the chimney is built
appears to be a shell rock. There is a great fireplace, eight
feet wide, four feet deep and six feet high. Before many
years the rapid encroachments of the river will have under-
mined the ruined tower, and the last relic of Jamestown will
sleep beneath Powhatan's turbid flood.
r-..,^
carter's grove.
.At the end of a wearisome drive of about seven miles
south-eastward from Williamsburg, over a road which
stretches through a flat and dreary succession of corn fields,
peanut patches and pine woods, the traveller, now nearing
the north bank of the James River, will see afar ofl^ across
«^--.K..
Carter's Grove.
the chief actor in the settlement of Virginia. There is
hardly in all history a figure more picturesque than that of
this indomitable man. His life was a romance, and full of
marvel. Dying quietly in London, in 1631, he sleeps in St.
Sepulchre's, where a stone bearing his arms, his three
Turk's heads, and his motto, " Vincerc est vii^ere" is to be
seen before the communion-table. A tablet to his memory,
engraved with a sonorous epitaph, beginning :
" Here lies one conquered tliat h.itli conquered kings,
Subdued large territories, and done things
Wiiich, to the world, impossible would seem,"
was destroyed in the great fire of London, in 1666.
About the only memorial of Captain Smith, and at the
same time the only specimen of the architectural achieve-
ments of the first settlers to be found in Vir<;inia, is the
chimney of the log-house built by Smith for Powhatan at
the level fields an imposing cluster of buildings standing i a
copse of tall, spiring trees. Leaving the road and winding
tortuously across the plantation, he drives beneath the
arching boughs of a short avenue of old locusts, and, emer-
ging upon a circular lawn of somewhat unkempt appearance,
sees before him the stately pile of Carter Burwell's ancient
manor-house of Carter's Grove. There is a fine air of mossy
age on this, the north side of the great house, but one's first
glance at the facade reveals the disappointing fact that a
very modern and wholly incongruous veranda covers a third
of the first story — a feature sadly out of style and asstheti-
cally deplorable ; comfortable, no doubt, but ugly. The ex-
terior is simple, square, massive; the openings, symmetrically
distributed, have a rather high and narrow look. The house
stands well up out of the ground, and above the cellar there
are two stories crowned by a high, unbroken slate roof
sloped from the ends of the house, so that the hips meet in
CARTER'S GROVE.
27
the ridge about one-third of the distance from either end of
the house. 'J"wo square cliimney-stacks rear their bulky
shafts high above the ridge-pole, ending in a simple, though
very efTective, topping-out. 'J he lines of the roof are bold
and pleasing; near the eaves they curve outward in a grace-
ful sweep. The cornice is of wood, and shows a row of
dentils with a few simple mouldings under the ralher broad
soffit of the eaves. The solid-looking walls are laid-up of
small, dark, English brick in Flemish bond, and they have
a rich, deep-red color. The brick, iron, carved and panelled
woodwork, sashes, hardware, oak flooring, and, in fact
nearly all the materials, were imported from England.
The house was built in the year 1737.
The walls show an increased thickness on the outside
below the level of the first floor, and at the height of the
second floor there is a brick band, slightly projected, several
courses in width, and finished with a moulded course at the
top and bottom, running all around the house. Flat arches,
with voussoirs one brick and a half high, cover the openings.
Otherwise the brickwork is perfectly plain.
The walls, both exterior and interior, are of great thick-
ness, running from three to four feet throughout. The roof
is a wonderful assemblage of massive timbers, put together
with that intelligent observance of the principles of good
carpentry which characterized the work of the period.
The door and window frames and the sashes are very
solidly built ; the sash-bars are broad and strong, and filled
with glass of moderate size. All exterior woodwork is
painted white.
The out-buildings* flanking the great house are low, one-
story, brick houses with high-pitclied slate roofs pierced on
each side with three dormer windows. One of these houses
is used entirely for kitchen and scullery; the other serves as
an office and storehouse. The main house is an oblong,
whose outside dimensions are about fifty by eighty feet.
A great hall, twenty-eight feet in width, occupies the cen-
tre of the first floor, cutting the house in twain. Out of this
grand manorial entry-way heavy panelled doors of generous
*I\ this domestic custom is found tlie germ of whicli the
development is the manorial dwe!Iinj;-liouse of \'irginia, and to
some extent the ])Iantatioii homes of other .Southern .States. \'ery
possibly, it was the iiuroiluctioii of negroes as house-servants and
the natural unwillingness of white
men to have colored slaves of
unknown hal)its of personal clean-
liness quartered under the same
roof with themselves that led to
their heinj; isolated in separate
huts, at tirst all in one settle-
ment — the '• tpiarters '' fiar excel-
lence— and lat'.r to tlie erection
of special structures for the use
of the house servants some-
what nearer to the main house,
drawing nearer and nearer and,
finallv, becoming attached to the
hou.se itself. Whatever the
cause, the feature that distin-
guishes the arcliitectural plan of
the Virginia manor-house from
the house of the .New luigland
gentlemen of the same time
and standing is the presence of
the kitchen and office wings, and a study confined entirelv to
this feature would he found to develo]) some verv interesting
results. .Sometimes, as at Westovcr' and Herkelev', the kitchen
is in a separate building entirelv detached from tlie main house,
balanced, of course, bv a similar structure on tlie other side,
usuallv the office in which the landowner transai ted the busi-
ness of the estate. Sometimes, as at .Mount \'ernon '. tlie kitchen,
though in a sejjarate building, is connected with the main house
width give upon the front and rear, looking toward the river
and the road. A broad arch, spanning about twenty feet,
bisects the hall. Starting under this arch, the grand stair-
way sweeps up in three easy runs to the floor above. With
its low risers, broad treads and carved balusters of ina-
hogany, it has a very sumptuous appearance. The floors of
the landings are inlaid with a hamlsome parquetry of light
and dark woods. There is a broader step at the foot, over
the rounded end of which the rail swings out in a spiral
whirl, and ends over a delicate, twisted newel. The twisted
post is repeated at the turns and occurs upon the landing
above. The rail is nicely worked into ramps of easy curve.
The balusters are set three to the tread. A wainscot in long
panels of mahogany covers the wall side, and has ramps
following the curve of the slair-rail, and twisted half-posts
set ojiposite those at the turns. The last panels in the
wainscot, next the landings, are made to follow theup-curve
of the rail. The tone of the mahogany is very dark and
rich, and the effect of the whole stairway is quite splendid.
The downward ramp in the rail as it turns across the stair-
well on the upper landing is well worth noting. The scheme
is useful, since it warns one of the approach to the head of
the stairs, as well as being pretty in effect. Several ugly
gashes in the rail on the first flight are said to have been
made by the sabres of Tarleton's dragoons, who, while
bivouacked here during the Revolutionary War, enjoyed the
quiet diversion of riding their chargers upstairs and hacking
away at the hand-rail as they rode.
From the landing on the second floor doors open on either
hand into bedrooms. Under a round arch, which pierces a
partition carried on the great arch below, one passes into
a large ante-room or corridor lighted by two windows looking
out upon the terraces and the river.
Froin this lobby doors open into the principal bedrooms.
The woodwork about the smaller arch is similar in treatment
to that of the larger span on the first floor. Looking
through it toward the head of the stairs, one gets a very
pleasing picture. The walls of the lower hall are wainscoted
«in
^.^^^^T^^^^^r^
,ower P.randon.
by an open or colonnaded passage-way. Then this passage way
is enclosed fully and becomes the link that permanently unites
the kitchen and office to the main house, as at Woodlawn*. near
Mount Vernon. At thf same time another cau.se. the neces-
sity of providing slielter for the
accidental or the invited traveller,
brought an increase in size and
dignity to these wing pavilions:
tlie cliance wayfarer of unknown
antecedents could li a r d 1 y be
<|uartered in the main liouse, and
the baclielor guests relished the
greater freedom of being al;le to
come and go unwatched. and
because of these things a second
story was soon added to the
ofiice wing and balance was ])re-
served by building sleeping-
rooms over the kitclien, so that
the house-servants no longer had
to retire to the general quarters
at night. In this way the typical
architectural plan of tlie \'ir-
ginia house. like Lower Brandon,
was evolved. From this point,
tlirough adopting the | — | plan or the | | I plan, by making
the wing portions one story or two, by building of brick or of
wood, the architect of the time succeeded in producing a great
variety of structures of most surprising architectural interest.
The mansions of .-\nnapolis. the I'aca' house, the l!rice° liouse,
the Harwood' house, show that this general scheme was as well
adapted to town u.se as it was to the larger county estates. — Ki).
'HfilJ
' See I'iiRe -ti.
' I'hue XX, I'iiri VI.
*-^Il was intended to jjiiblish illiisiralioiis ot these buildinys in tins I'.irt, but they
liavL' Iteen driven f)VLM- to tlie followinK '"i"-*- ~ ■!■•"■
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
from floor to ceiling. Above the base is a plain board dado
crowned with a narrow cornice, the upper member of which
is quite ornate, the whole being about three feet high. From
dado to frieze the wall is covered with a single large panel,
raised and bevelled. The frieze contains two bronze mem-
Lower Brandon. — Of all the seats on the James, Lower
lirandon, vis-a-vis to Westover, is the most delicious picture of
Old \'irginia. Every nook and corner of the spreading mansion
breathes of dead belles and beaux, of minuets and roses of a hun-
dred leaves. Inside, the walls are lined with one of the most famous
collections of portraits in America. English lords and ladies, poets
and musicians, all friends of Colonel Byrd, of Westover, hang be-
side the family portraits. It may be well to say here that a liyrd
married a Harrison and, thereby, Byrd silver and pictures crossed
the river from Westover to Brandon. The small panes of the win-
dows are "written o"er "' with famous names. From the vast hall
we pass to drawing-room and dining-room, and through long corri-
dors to the large wings which contain the prim, old-fashioned bed-
rooms. The late owner of Brandon, Mrs. George Harrison,
formerly a Miss Ritchie, of Baltimore, was one of the most notable
bers swelled out into a curved projection, and separated by
narrow horizontal mouldings. The cornice is made up of a
number of members, among them a bracketed dentil band
surmounted by a strongly-projecting corona. Three large
panels sheathe the wall above the stairs, diminishing in
tervention was procured by his medical adviser, whose wife was
the sister of the widowed owner of the estate at that time.
L'nquestionably, there was wanton and irreparable damage
done during the war by Federal troops, but that much of it need
not have happened is proved by the following extract from the
New York Ki'ening Post for April 7, 1900, wherein " A Recon-
structed Matron" describes an incident of Sherman's passage
through South Carolina: —
" One morning in the early spring of 1.S65 our little maid rushed
into tlie sitting-room where we were assembled, exclaiming that
the Yankees were coming and were " des ten mile down de road,"'
and sure enough, while we were at dinner, which was the dignified
term bestowed on the scrap of bacon, boiled with mounds of peas
and rice, which constituted our principal daily meal, bang, bang
was heard just beside our windows, and glancing out, our terrified
Lower Brandon.
women of her day. She died about two years ago, nearing the
century mark. Everybody called her "Old Miss "and her influ-
ence was like the breath of violets, far-reaching and insinuating.
Brandon has now passed to her grandchildren. — S. A''. R.
It is not improbable that the present front and rear porticos as
well as the bay-window in the upper story are the handiwork of
some post-bellum carpenter, for Brandon was visited by Federal
troops in January, 1864, who not only burned the out-buildings
and negro ciuarters, and destroyed much corn, hav and bacon, but
looted the house and practically wrecked it, sniasliing all the win-
dows and tearing out some of the interior woodwork to feed their
camp-fires. The southeast wing, dating from 1712, is the oldest
portion of the house, which measures 210 feet in total length : the
balancing wing on the southwest follows in point of age, while
the central or present main house is said to be in part due to the
suggestion of Thomas Jefferson on his return from I'aris, his
interest in the plan being due to the fact that when a student at
William and Mary his chum was Benjamin Harrison, son of the
owner of the estate, Col. Nathaniel Harrison. If one of our I'resi-
dents had a hand in the designing of ISrandon, another had a hand
in its preservation, since it was bv Lincoln's personal order that
the Federal troojjs were not allowed to revisit Brandon, as they
threatened, and complete the work of destruction. Lincoln's in-
eves beheld men in blue and grav, pursuers and pursued, galloping
furiouslv down the road, discharging pistols as thev went. War had
come to us individually at last, and the excitement we had craved
proved to be anything but tlie agreeal^le sensation of our anticipation.
" A prodigious hiding and burying of valuables now took place;
the servants seized upon silver cups, pitchers, waiters, etc., and rush-
ing into the garden, sowed them broadcast among the potato-beds,
which precaution eventuallv proved cjuite unneces.sar\-, as we quickly
obtained a guard, who protected our property completely. . . .
" The discipline of the troops must have been complete, for our
guard, a little whipper-snapper of seventeen or eighteen yeans,
while lying on the grass before our door would merely rise on his
elbow, turning his juvenile countenance on the parties of ma-
rauders who, from time to time, would gallop up on evil deeds
intent, and off they would go, immediately recognizing his au-
thority. Many of our neighl)ors, not having secured a guard,
fared very badlv at the hands of our visitors, who, however,
remained onlv two day.s, and then carried their undesirable
presence elsewhere. Oh, how much we all had now to hear
and to tell ! Such experiences of outrage and robbery as our
friends had to relate made us almost ashamed of our good fort-
une, and caused us to feel that our escape from such tribulations
must have been through some fault or lack of patriotism on our
part." — I'll).
CARTER'S GROVE.
29
height with the Hne of llie ascent, and over these the cornice
is returned. Near the top of the first fliyht the upper
paneUing stops abruptly, all above showing the bare, plastered
wall.
On either side of the arch are broad, fluted pilasters pro-
jecting from the wall, standing on bases of the height of the
dado, and crowned by shallow, composite capitals richly
carved. Above these the entablature is brought out with
proper projection and returned at the ends.
Triangular panels occupy the spandrels of the arch and
the side of stairway. The stars in these panels and on the
key of the arch are from the frieze of another room. The
jambs and soffits of all the doorways, and the soffit of the
stairs, are handsomely panelled. 'i"he architraves are not
especially noticeable.
An almost incredible misfortune has in recent degenerate
times befallen the beautiful woodwork of this great hall :
dado and panelled wainscot, swelling frieze and dentilled
cornice, fluted pilaster and sculptured capital, panelled arch
and noble enablature, all have been painted by some vandal
hand — and I hasten to absolve the present proprietor, who
is guiltless of the crime — in shrieking tones of red, vvliite,
blue, and — mirabile dUtu — green! Absolute justice to the
artist compels me to add that he has used his green rather
sparingly, but what there is of it is most relentlessly green.
And yet, under all this coarseness, while it is almost impos-
sible to get the proper value of certain members to which
the harsh coloring has given exaggerated weight, one can
still see the dignity of the whole scheme of decoration.
The two floors are very similar in plan, there being two
large rooms, almost square, on either side of the great hall,
which occupies the middle third of the whole floor-space.
Elsing Greex. — If Klsing Green is one of tliose two "richly
furnished mansions " in wliich Carter lirixxton, later a signer of
the Declaration of Independence, lived " in great splendor " shortlv
after his second marriajje in \']()\. or therealiouts, tlie building
dates back, at least, to near the middle of tlie eisliteenth century.
It would be gratifying to be able to present a more satisfactory
The two chimneys carried up on the middle transverse
partitions give a fireplace of generous size to each room.
Those in the library and dining-room are of very liberal
dimensions. There is, in the parlor, a mantel in Siena
marble of very good design in the refined style of the period.
The wainscot of the room, which is called the library for
lack of other distinguishing name, is in large panels of pine,
from which the paint has been scraped oil'. The color is
very rich and dark, and the room altogether very handsome.
I should estimate the iieight of the first-story rooms at about
twelve feet, or periiaps fourteen, and, with their tall panel-
lings, they are impressive. The window-frames are set well
out, thus leaving a deep reveal in the thickness of the wall
inside, where cosy window-seats have been built in.
The floors are all of rift oak, from four to six inches wide,
and as sound as the day they were laid, a carpenter would
say. The doors are in slightly raised, bevelled and moulded
panels, solidly framed and very thick. My impression is
that there are solid panelled inside blinds to all windows.
In its chief feature, the entry-hall, this handsome colonial
residence adheres to the model of the English manor-
houses of the time, in which the great baronial hall of feudal
days still survived.
It was here that the family received its guests, the ladies
pouring tea for the beaux who came riding, en grande teniie, to
pay their court in the long afternoons of the beautiful Vir-
ginia summers. Within these thick walls it was cool always,
and through the wide doors and windows, opening upon
front and rear, the breezes from off the river came in un-
checked. As the day wore on and the fiery sun was gone,
the company sought the terraces and sauntered in the long
twilight, looking down upon the purpling bosom of the
only a man of great wealth, which before his death was, owing to
losses during the war and unfortunate mercantile ventures, practi-
cally dissipated, but was throughout his life active in political
affairs, holding many offices of trust. Although conservative by
temperament he supported Patrick Henry's Stamp Act resolutions
in 1765, and, later, in April, 1775, when Henry, alone of the
Umise cf C.irter liraxton, a signer of the Declaration of liiclepciidence.
illustration of the building than is afforded by the accompanying
photographic view, for l)eside tlie flanking buildings for house-
servants and office witli narrow dormers serving the second stories,
the plan seems to be unusual, the entrances being a|)pareiitly placed
on the axis of the wings. If later, cliance enables us to procure
adequate illustration of tliis or any otlier liuildiiig, now onlv photo-
graphically presented, we sliall not hesitate to present them in
some later portion of tliis publication. Carter Braxton was not
leaders of the militia, refused to lay down his arms until he had
despoiled of the king's property enough to offset the value of the
colony's powder seized by Lord Dunniore, he had enough influ-
ence with Henry to keep him in check until he had time to per-
suade his own father-in-law, the receiver-general of the royal
customs, to pay Henrv the value of the stolen ])owcIer and so pre-
vent tile shedding of blood. The arrangement of •• 1 ■jsing ( ireen ''
may l)e the same as that of " Tiickalnie " shown 011 |)age 32. — V.u.
30
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
James. The veranda, so essential a feature of our modern
country liouses, was not in vogue in the English prototypes
of these colonial manor-houses, and was, therefore, not a
part of the construction of the great river mansions, except
in one or two instances.
As the days grew cold great woodfires roared on the ca-
pacious hearths of the principal rooms; there was none in
the hall. A richly-dressed throng of guests wandered at will
from room to room in the more or less brilliant illumination
afforded by candles in sconces on the panelled walls.
In the spacious dining-room the great oak board groaned
beneath the weight of sumptuous feasts, and on the buffet
stood the mighty punch-bowl to be emptied and refilled
again and again, while flanking it, were decanters filled with
wines of Spain, of Oporto, and the blue Canaries, and cob-
webbed bottles of old Madeira from the vaulted cellars
below. On small tables in the library were urns of coffee
and chocolate at which the ladies, tres decolletees, in rich
brocades, their pretty feet encased in high-heeled slippers of
red satin, their heads a wonder of feathers and powder,
patches and paste, ministered unto the wants of gay cava-
liers standing about with their cocked-hats under their arms,
and resplendent in gold-laced coats of costly stuffs, flowered
waistcoats, satin knee-breeches, diamond buckles, powdered
hair or frizzled wigs.
Meanwhile, in the small house, on the right of the main
building, where the kitchen was established — for in colonial
country houses of the better class the cooking was usually
done under a separate roof — was a throng of negro domes-
tics. The cooks crowded around the great fireplace in which
the cranes swung laden with pots and kettles, and tended the
spits which depended by hooks from the cob-irons, and slowly
turned their burden of venison, wild-turkey, quail, or the
humbler barn-yard fowl, to the glowing coals and the blaze
of great logs heaped upon the fire-dogs. The younger
negroes, plying in a steady stream between the houses,
rushed to and fro with tlie innumerable dishes of the feast,
and all hands halted now and then to refresh themselves
with a draught of home-made persimmon beer.
This was the seat of the rich and hospitable planter,
Carter Burwell, who, besides being of distinguished family
Hanovkr Court-house. — Like many other buildings of the
time, this little structure depends for its architectural interest very
largely on the character of its brickwork and this seems an unusu-
ally successful example of the employment of light and dark brick.
But in addition to this, although
it is so simple in design, it was
evidently the work of some one
who knew and valued the virtues
of proportion and simplicity, and
delicacy of detail. Here, as
usual, architectural merit cannot
vie with historical interest and
this building will always be known
and venerated for being the scene
of some of those early expres-
sions of Colonial disaffection
which finally led to the War of
the Revolution. Also it was in
this building, in 1763, that Fat-
rick Henry made his first great
speech and by his eloquence car-
ried the case against the clergy-
men— in spite of the abstract
justice of their cause — in what is
known as '■ tlie parson's contest,"
a dis])ute which had an imjjort-
ant bearing on the inauguration of the Revolution. The salary of
the cler<;ymen in the colony was fixed at 1 6,000 pounds of tobacco
and wlien tobacco sold at ordinary rates their income was sufficient
for comfortable existence, liut in 175.S, owing to a short crop,
the price advanced to 60 shillings and the House of Burgesses
in his own person, was very highly connected on the side of
his wife, a daughter of " King Carter," one of the wealthiest
and most noted planters in the colony. They and their
descendants were people of the highest fashion in ante-
Revolutionary times, and their home was the scene of many
great dinners and routs and balls of brilliant splendor.
ft is interesting to trace the wonderfully rapid evolution
of the settler's habitation from the first rude shelter of bark
and boughs up to the luxury and refinement of the princely
residences of a century later. The men of the first com-
panies lived in bark huts exactly copied after the wigwams
of the Indians; and, indeed, so quickly did the charm of the
wild untrammelled life of the wilderness conquer the tradi-
tions of their old-country home that many of them stuck
to the wigwams long after a considerable civilization had
developed in the colony.
Succeeding these came the house of logs, pine-trunks of
medium size being at first merely cut into lengths, notched
at the ends and laid up round ; but soon, the first winters
having developed an unexpected severity of clitpate, they
were hewn square and the spaces between the logs carefully
chinked-up with clay.
The primitive and unhealthful dirt-floors were superseded
by a pavement of puncheons sawed from the butts of logs,
and rude chimneys were built of sticks fastened together at
the angles and roughly smeared on the inside with clay or
plaster. The stack was carried up against one of the end
walls of the cabin and on the outside — just as they are
built to this day in the hovels of the negroes and poor whites
throughout the South, which are, in fact, hardly an improve-
ment upon the rude original we are describing.
The splitting out of rough shingles and clapboards from
the clear butts of the larger timber marked an important
advance.
Nails were very scarce and many houses were built entirely
without the use of iron, thongs of rawhide and wooden pe^s
being used instead. Timbers were laid across the shingles
to prevent them from being lifted by the wind. Bricks were
made in Jamestown a very few years after the first landing,
and were soon in general use for the lower-story walls. The
oyster-shells, found in great heaps upon the river shores.
Hanover Court-house.
ordained that all obligations payable in tobacco should be paid in
money at a valuation of two pence for each pound of tobacco due.
Although this law was limited to an operation of ten months and
was of universal apphcation, it bore with particular hardship on
the clergy, who, as their entire
income was derived from tobacco,
could not support a loss of sixty-
six per cent of their salary. Ac-
cordingly, they protested 'and fi-
nally appealed to the crown, their
cause being supported by the
Bishop of London. The King
declared the law unjust and or-
dered its repeal. The clergy then
prepared a test-case, that of the
Rev. Mr. Camm, which was tried
before the Governor and Coun-
cil, and by a single vote went
against the reverend claimant of
back pav. The clergymen who
were making common cause then
prepared another case, that of
the Rev. Mr. Maury, a man of
greater personal popularity, and
this time it was decided that the
plaintiff had a valid claim. But
the amount of damages or back pay had yet to be decided and the
opponents of the clergymen placed their case in the hands of
the unknown Patrick Henry. The result was that the Rev.
Mr. ALaurv received one penny in damages and Patrick Henr}''s
rejjutation was made. — Ed.
CARTER'S GROVE.
31
yielded an excellent lime when well burned, and a concrete
of shells and lime was used in walls which are still to be
seen. With the introduction of the female element into the
community, home-rearing in the wilderness went forward
with greatly renewed energy, and from this time a steady
improvement in the style and importance of their houses is
discernible.
In 1619, some ninety young women were sent out from
England and speedily found husbands among the pioneers.
In 162 1, one widow and eleven maids were landed in James-
stovvn, all of whom were mated without loss of time, their
husbands paying 120 pounds of tobacco apiece for the cost
of their bringingout. For each of the thirty-eight women
who arrived in the next consignment, 150 pounds of tobacco
were given.
Tobacco was now the great staple of commerce and me-
dium of exchange between Virginia and the motliercountry,
and as its cultivation became more profitable land was
rapidly cleared, the colonists began to give up the old com-
munity system, abandoned Jamestown, and, establishing
themselves upon broad plantations, entered upon an entirely
new phase of colonial life, individual families living now in
an isolation which was in strong contrast to the old order of
things, and much better calculated to call forth the courage
and latent energies of the settlers.
Gradually the habitation of the planter of middling estate
grew into the type of which we find so many houses in
the older parts of the colony, plain, comfortable, one-story
houses, having usually a curb-roof pierced with dormers, four
square rooms arranged about a hall of goodly size, and a
great square chimney-stack rising out of the middle of the
building.
These considerable improvements in the condition of the
colonists had been brought about mainly by the firm hand
and wise head of Sir Thomas Dale, who, arriving in May,
161 1, as " High Marshal of Virginia," had at once set about
reforming the abuses which were sapping the energies and
obstructing the progress of the infant colony. One of his
first acts of government was to do away with the old com-
munal system under whose miserable defects the settlements
had, until his arrival, been hopelessly struggling. Hereto-
fore the law had required that everything should be brought
to the '■ common store," from which the whole community
drew its subsistence, every one sharing in the results of the
labor of the entire body. The consequence was that as no
one could hope to profit especially by the fruits of his own
industry, the most of them found it pleasanter to do nothing
at all, " presuming that, however the harvest prospered, the
general store must maintain them," and so they passed the
time agreeably playing at bowls by the roadside, while a very
few of the more diligent planted and tilled the corn which
was to feed them all through the long dreary winter. When
that gave out, as it usually did, they relied upon the uncertain
hope of cajoling the Indians into giving them more. But
the iron will of Dale soon made an end of all this. He re-
quired that every man of them should work his allotment
of three acres of cleared ground, giving to the public granary
two-and-one-half barrels of corn, and disposing of the rest of
his crop as he pleased. Each one must provide himself with
a home of his own, however rude. In a few years, when he
saw that this new order was bringing forth good results, the
Governor obtained from the London Company a grant of
fifty acres for every man who would undertake to clear and
cultivate that amount, paying a small yearly rental to the
King "at the feast of St. .Michael the Archangel," or he
might select and take up one hundred acres on the payment
of twelve pounds or so, or, were he fortunate enough to earn
the gratitude of the Company by some important achieve-
ment, he might look for reward in the shape of larger grants
to the extent of two thousand acres, not more.
But one thing more was wanted. The colonists had now
made homes for themselves. They wanted wives to put into
them. Sir Edwin Sandys, President of the London Com-
pany, set about supplying the want. He had already shipped
over twelve hundred men to Virginia, and King James had
contributed a hundred convicts, the latter not meeting a very
cordial welcome. Sir Edwin now got together ninety maids
of fair repute and sent them over to find husbands. It was
a great stroke. On the arrival of the ships there was a rush
to Jamestown to view their fair freight, and there were
doubtless some curious incidents of courtship, novel and
rapid. The company had made careful selection of the girls.
There were only two black sheep in the flock, and these
were shortly sent home again. The others were wooed and
married without much loss of time. The company had di-
rected that "in case they cannot be presently married, we
desire that they be put with several householders that have
wives until they can be supplied with husbands. . . . We
desire that the marriage be free, according to nature, and
we would not have these maids deceived and married to
servants, but only such freemen or tenants as have means to
maintain them . . . not enforcing them to marry against
their wills."
So were complete homes founded at last in the wilderness,
and with houses and lands of their own, and wives and chil-
dren to work for, the Virginians were far on the road to
permanent prosperity. The "servants" referred to in the
Company's order concerning the young women were in-
dentured persons and sometimes convicts : the first black
slaves to arrive in the colony were brought in a Dutch ship
which sailed up the James River in 1619, and sold twenty
Africans to the tobacco-planters.
Sir Thomas Dale, having in five years accomplished so
much for the betterment of the colony, went back to Eng-
land in 1616, and his arrival there is thus chronicled: "Sir
Tliomas Dale has arrived from Virginia, and brought with
him some ten or twelve old and young of that country, among
whom is Pocahontas, daughter of Powhattan, a king or ca-
cique of that country, married to one Rolfe, an Englishman.
I hear not of any other riches or matter of worth, but only
some quantity of sassafras, tobacco, pitch, tar and clapboard
— things of no great value, unless there were plenty and
nearer hand. All I can hear of it is, that the country is
good to live in, if it were stored with people, and might, in
time, become commodious. But there is no present profit
to be expected."
At this time the population of Virginia was reckoned at
three hundred and fifty-one ; thirty-eight " men and boys "
at Henrico, of whom twenty-two were farmers ; one hundred
and nineteen at Bermuda Nether Hundred ; twenty-five men
at West and Shirley Hundred ; fifty at Jamestown ; the rest
at Kiquatan, Dale's Gift, and elsewhere. The cultivation of
tobacco was begun in this year.
In 1617-18, there were in Virginia about four hundred
settlers. Four hundred and fifty bushels of corn came to the
granaries, and the property of the colonists in cattle was
considerable. Stringent laws for the government of the
settlers were enforced. Immigration was greatly increased
in i6ig, and in July, 1620, the population had reached four
thousand persons, and settlements had extended to the York
River. An effort was being made to teach and christianize
the Indians.
32
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Sir Francis Wvat, a young Irish gentleman, coming out as
Governor in 1621, was charged to see that the Church ot
England and the laws of England were respected in his
province ; to suppress gambling and drunkenness ; to punish
pirates; to teach the '"savage heathen"; to regulate the
dress of the colonists, permiiting only councillors and heads
of hundreds to bedeck them in gold lace, and forbidding
any to appear in silken clothes until Virginia should grow
the silk ; to cultivate corn and the grape ; to regulate
the excessive growing of tobacco, not allowing indentured
servants to forsake their trades to plant it; to build water-
mills ; to make pitch and tar; to explore the country for
precious minerals; to take a census of the colony — and
much more tending to promote the general welfare of the
settlement.
With Wyat came George Sandys, Treasurer of Virginia,
and brother of Sir Edwin Sandys, of the London Company,
who was, according to Pope and Dryden, one of the first
versifiers of his time, an Oxford man, and a great traveller in
Europe and the East.
Eighty Irish immigrants settled at Newport News, and
three thousand five hundred settlers in all came out during
162 I and 1622.
The colony at this time exported yearly twenty thousand
pounds of tobacco, almost the entire crop. Before the end
of the century the annual shipment of tobacco to England
amounted to fifteen millions of pounds, the revenues from
which aggregated ;^ioo,ooo.
At noon on Friday, the 22d of March, 1622, the Indians,
in several bands, fell upon the James River settlements, and
in a few hours butchered three hundred and forty-nine men,
women and children. The paralyzing effect of this terrible
massacre, in which fell about one-twelfth of the whole popu-
lation, was long felt in the colony. Among its immediate
results was a strong reawakening of the dread and hatred of
the Indians which the philanthropic efforts of such men as
George Thorpe, Deputy of the College land, Sandys and
others had nearly overcome. Thorpe himself was one of their
first victims, being slain at Berkeley with ten other persons.
Opechancanough, the instigator of this awful treachery, had
been living in a fine house built for him in the English fashion
' VV'VAXOKE, o\ THE Jaaies River. — The accompanying illus-
tration is introduced here largely because the name has recently
acquired a new fame in the pages of Miss Johnston's historical
novel, " To Hai<e and to Hold,'' a book likely to retain its place in
literature lonjrer tlian most novels and so make Wyanoke continu-
K
^
lit
■''pJdS^^^^^^^^^^k 1
^
j^
M '"'^
pl J 1
m
Wyanoke.
ingly familiar. The date of this structure and its historv we have
not souj;lit to know, but it serves as well as another to show that
there was distinct kinsliip in desi<;n between the New England
and \'ir<;inian houses of the period. It shows, too, that not all.
nor perliaps most, \'ira;inia manor-houses were built of brick.
^ .Sfe page 33 and IM.iles ^ and 9, I^.nt \'I.
by 'J'horpe upon the College lands. "The chief was so
charmed with it, especially with the lock and key, that he
locked and unlocked the door a hundred times a day."
King James seized upon the pretext of the massacre,
when news of these dire events had reached England, to
institute an inquiry into the affairs of the Virginia Company,
which finally resulted in the annulling of their charter, after
a prolonged struggle, in 1624.
" The company thus dissolved had expended one hundred
and fifty thousand pounds in establishing this Colony, and
had transported nine thousand settlers without the aid of
governrnent. The number of stockholders was about one
thousand, and the annual value of exports from Virginia was,
at the period of the dissolution of the charter, only twenty
thousand pounds."
Among its members were " fifty noblemen, several hundred
knights, and many gentlemen, merchants and citizens."
In March, 1625, died King James the First, and his son,
Charles the First, succeeded to the throne. The settlements
on the James River had now reached the " Falls," where the
advance-guard of pioneers had built them a few rough cabins
within the fortitied enclosure of the prescribed stockade.
Near "Powhatan," a few miles down the river, 15,000 acres
of land had been laid out for the benefit of the University of
Henrico, and a few settlers were living there.
At Falling Creek were the ruins of the furnace and other
buildings erected by Berkeley, who intended to engage in
the smelting of lead and iron here, but burnt by the Indians
in the late uprising. The mine from which he is said to
have taken valuable ore has never been found. Farther
down, upon a narrow neck of land encompassed within a
horseshoe bend of the river, at " Dutch Gap," was the City
of Henricus, fortified behind two strong palisades stretching
across from river to river. The town stood well out on the
peninsula and had three streets, a church and an Indian
College. Along the river below were Fort Patience and
Mount Malado, and still farther down the stream were
Bermuda Hundred, Flower de Hundred, Wyanoke\ West
and Shirley Hundred, Berkeley, where Thorpe was killed,
Westover and Martin's Brandon.
"This group of cabins on the banks of James River," says
though the exterior clapboarding is not a proof that, as often
in New England, the outer walls were not filled-in with brick
work between tlie studs.
A variant upon this
mixed svstem of building
is shown by Tuckahoe,'' a
house whicli reveals an
interesting plan but
which is of interest here
mainly because the gable-
ends of one of its wings
are of brickwork, while
the balancing gable-ends
of the other wing, like all
other parts of the house,
are covered with clap-
boards. This difference
makes one at first sus-
pect that the wini;s were
i)uilt at different times, an
interpretation that seems
to be forbidden by the
plan. A more probable
explanation is that the
bricks were imported,
only enough coming in
the early cargoes for two
gable walls and ]jarts of
the third and fourth chim-
nevs in the second wing,
and that rather tlian delay occupancy of the building the original
owner decided to build the second wing whollv of wood. — Ed.
CARTER'S GROVE.
33
Cooke, "was the advance-guard of civilization, a sentinel
posted on the look-out. It would not do for the little band
of English to relax their vigilance. Human wolves were
lurking around them, ready to spring upon them at any
moment, and life was a hard struggle with disease and
famine." The settlements were far apart, each was sur-
rounded with a palisade, and in the year immediately suc-
ceeding the great massacre every one was on the alert,
danger was ever present. Their houses were of a rude sort,
generally built for comfort and defense, and with small
regard to appearances. They were mostly of wood. "The
stalwart planters go to and fro on horseback," but mainly
get about by way of the river.
Some of the more important houses had, even at this early
day, some pretensions to elegance and were of fairly good
size. They were furnished with movables brought over from
the mother country.
" Here is the smiling lady of the manor in a huge ruff,
with high-heeled shoes and a short skirt, coming to welcome
us, and behind her is her spouse, the hearty planter himself.
He is a commander and head of a hundred, so he wears
'gold on his clothes ' as the law entitles iiim to do(i62i),
others are forbidden that. His official duties are responsi-
ble ones. They are to ' see that all such orders as heretofore
have been, or hereafter shall be given by the Governor and
Council, be duly executed and obeyed' in the hundred which
he commands (1624). He is also a 'commissioner' or
justice of the peace, to determine all controversies under the
value of one hundred pounds of tobacco. Thus the worthy
X — is military commander and civil magistrate, executive
and judge of the little community ; a royalist in sentiment,
as everybody is, a Church of England man, and a hearty
hater of things papistical and of dissent. . . .
"A little society huddled together in the peninsula between
the James and York; dependencies reaching into the wilds ;
on the rivers gold-laced commanders rowed swiftly by indeti-
tured servants; on the outposts pioneers watching against
attack; everywhere strong contrasts of white, red and black;
the society composite, but harmonious ; the Church of Eng-
TucKAHOK, (ioocHi.Axi) Co., \'a. — But a half-liour"s journey
from Kicliniond stands " TuckahoL-,'' tlie Randolph estate, h\tely
purchased by Mr. J. Randolph Coolidije, of lioston. Take the
James River branch of the C. li O. at Riclimond, and ride for about
land the only religion, though dissenters will soon intrude ;
the test-oath against papacy demanded of every new-comer
and official ; the Assembly protesting against the claim of
the Governor to tax them by proclamation ; men in armor
going to harry the Indian settlements in spring and autumn;
public officials losing their ears; double engagements be-
tween men and maids punished with fine or whipping — -this
is the queer old society which we have looked at. The
whole is English in warp and woof. These Virginians of
the early times read English books, wear English clothes,
eat from English plates with English knives and forks, and
follow England in all things. Their church is the Church of
England ; the Governor is the representative of the King
of England ; his Cour.cil is the English House of Lords, and
the Burgesses the English Parliament. . . .
" They were simply a society of Englishmen, of the
age of Shakespeare, taken out of England and set down in
Virginia."'
There was a steady extension of the settlements and a
regular growth of the wealth and condition of the planters
going on without interruption through the remaining three-
quarters of the century, and with these better fortunes of the
colony came, of course, great improvement in the architecture
of the young country. An inordinate passion for land-owning
seems to have early possessed them, and enormous tracts of
country were granted to the more distinguished settlers.
The population of Virginia in 17 15 was about ninety-five
thousand, of whom twenty-three thousand were negroes. Of
other servants there were many persons of humble degree
who worked for hire upon the plantations, besides the " kids "
— a possible derivation from kidnap — who were apprenticed
for terms of five years, and finally a small percentage of con-
victed felons who had been forced upon the colony by the
Governmeiit from time to time, and who were farmed out to
the planters at low rates.
At the seats of the aristocratic great planters were always
large retinues of slaves and indentured servants, and life at
these places had developed, at the beginning of the eighteenth
bevond the " Falls " : that is, the City of Richmond. When it was
built, the surrounding country was a vast forest, where Indians
hirked, and for every five hundred acres, the law demanded
Ctiimneypiece, '* Tuckalioe."
twenty minutes, and you will stop at a shabby country-station: a
short walk thence hrin<;s you to a larj^e neglected garden : just
beyond stands " Tuckahoe.'' Here Thomas Jetferson's boyhood
was spent. It never belonged to tlie Jeffersons, It was one of the
many seats of the Randolphs, and was the first franied-dwelling
Back Parlor Mantel, "Tuckalioe.'*
" I Xtien man perfect of limb, jirovided with a well fixt musquctt or
fu/ee, a good pistoll. shar|) simeter and tomaliawk," a feeble guard,
it seems, against tlie red foes. — .-S". JV. JH.
' " ; 7;;i,>-////V?," by John listen Cooke.
34
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
century, into an affair of much luxury and lavish expenditure.
Very few of the handsomest of the colonial manor-houses
antedate this time. The rage for building costly houses lasted
up to the first years of the Revolution. But the stress of
that long, hard struggle gave the people other matters to
think of, and a decadence in the architecture of Virginia set
in about that period.
Thomas Jefferson, writing his "-Notes" in 1781, has some-
thing to say about the rude huts of the poorer classes, built
in pens and with the crevices between the logs roughly
smeared up with plaster. He adds that board houses were
erected nearly everywhere in preference to buildings of brick
or stone, a false idea prevailing that the latter were damp,
and admitted rain through the walls. He goes on to disprove
this to his own satisfaction, and deplores the e.xclusive use of
wood in building, wliich precludes all hope of improvement
in the architecture of the country, both because of the neces-
sarily temporary character and short life of these wooden
houses and the inadaptability of the material to elegance and
dignity of design.
The first three-quarters of the eighteenth century, then,
were unquestionably the golden age of Virginia in the matter
of architecture, and perhaps in other respects besides. The
'Carter Hall, Millwood, Clarke Co., Va. — It seems
impossible for an investigator to get at any historical facts of any
kind in the Southern States without almost at once losing his
bearings while trying to keep clearly before his mind the stor}' of
genealogical ascent and descent wliich the Southerner of the upper
classes recites so glibly on all occasions, for he has the amiable
delusion that you are as much interested in family trees as he is,
and of course must know all about the more important branches,
at least, along which his tale conducts you. The cult of the
family tree distinguishes the Soutliern from the Northern gentle-
man quite as much as any other thing. Another Southern custom,
the use of surnames as given names, makes the story only the
more bewildering, if you have not time and inclination to give to
the unravelling of it. All one can do is to allow his subconscious-
manorial country-seats of that day were always built upon
the river shores, and each place had its long wharf ex-
tending out into water deep enough for the light-draught
English vessels which lay at their ends unloading London
commodities, and taking on tobacco for England.
Carter Burwell's' famous house, Carter's Grove, stands upon
an eminence about seventy-five feet higher than the river.
Three broad terraces break the descent to the level fields
lying along the river shore. The view from the house, across
the meadows and over the glistening river widening out below
into Burwell's Bay, is very fine. Away up stream, to the west-
ward, one is shown where Jamestown stood in the olden time.
Enormously costly must have been the building of such a
house as this one in a country so destitute of proper material
and workmanship as was the Virginia of its day. It would
be very interesting to know something about the making of
the plan of the house, the arrangement and details of which
have evidently received such careful study. It is singular
that the names of the architects of these aristocratic mansions
should be nowhere discoverable, and yet, of course, the titles
of the owners and occupants are always so intimately associ-
ated with a house that others connected with its construction
may very easily be forgotten. Doubtless, whatever plans
The Van Lew Mansion, Richmond, Va. — On the "other
hill," which Richmonders call Church Hill, the spot of Richmond's
nativity, stands historic old " St. John's," where Patrick Henry
uttered the memoral)Ie words, " Give me liberty or give me death."
This church was built in 1740 and has been used as a house of
worship ever since. Here, too, is the famous "\'an Lew " resi-
dence, set in riotous shrubbery and perennial blossoms.
" Miss Bet \'an Lew " is one of the distinct personalities of this
city. Her parents moved to Richmond some years prior to the
Civil \V'ar, and became interested citizens. Betty grew up in one
of the exclusive circles of well-born children on the " Hill," and
all went smoothly until a governess from \'ermont was employed
in the \'an Lew household. Tliis woman was thoroughly imbued
with a horror of slavery, and attempted to plant this in the minds
of her young pupils. Many children were taught at the \'an Lew
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" Carter Hall," Millwood, Clarke Co., Va.
ness to acknowledge that there must be some blood connection
between the Carter Nelson Pages, the Page Carter Nelsons and the
Nelson Page Carters, and so on, and that therein lies an all-sufficient
explanation of pretty much everything. And so it is with the place-
names of their country seat.s, and when you come upon a " Carter
Hall " you are probably right in deciding that its owner, be his
name Page or Nelson or Mann or anything else, can trace his de-
scent back to King Carter of Corotoman. So, though the Carter
Hall, at Millwood, Clarke Co., \'a., is owned by Mr. George H.
Burwell, it may be taken for granted that the place-name of this
estate is due to a desire to make public acknowledgment of a
certain pride of l)irtli. At any rate. Carter Hall at Millwood is
a fair tvjje of the (ieorijian work of the latest period and is
merely a good sam])le of the many "white ])illared homes" of the
Southern gentleman. — ¥.i>.
Tlie Van Lew Mansion, Richmond, Va.
house with little Miss \'an Lew, but the seed seemed to dry up
and wither in every breast but that of little '■ I5et." She became
a fanatic and treasured the purpose of aiding in the abolition of
slaverv, and dreamed of nothing else in the remaining years of her
childhood. Just as womanhood dawned, the War came, and Miss
Van Lew became a spy, braving every difficulty to help the
Northern cause. At night she would steal from home and fear-
lessly go into uncanny places to carry tidings of value to Northern
sympathizers who lurked about the city. She was detested but
not disturbed. After the war she became post-mistress of Rich-
mond, and now aged, bent, living still in her spacious house, sur-
rounded densely by flowers, box-hedge and trees, she treasures
fierce animosity, and in her fading years her life is a protest against
her environment. Tliougli her slaves are freed, she seems in her
restless age to long for other changes. — .S". JV. Ji.
SHIRLEY.
35
there may have been were made in England, the colony
hardly affording at that stage of her existence a very promis-
ing field for architectural immigrants. The English manor-
house of the period was the invariable model. The division
of space was extremely simple. The finishing of the interior,
the arrangement of the handsome wainscotings, the mould-
ings of the architraves, chair-boards, bases, friezes and
cornices, and the work upon the great rich stairways, all
evince careful study and an educated taste.
Nearly everything was brought over from England, it
would seem, and the cost of transportation alone must have
been considerable. It is to be presumed that there were
enough competent workmen in Virginia to put things to-
gether when they arrived on this side. Nevertheless, it must
all have cost a pretty figure, and no doubt these lordly
planters paid in princely fashion for their magnificence.
Mann Page seems to have well-nigh ruined himself in the
building of his great manor-house of Rosewell, and we find
his son petitioning the Burgesses for authority to sell enor-
mous tracts of the Page domain in order to pay the debts of
his father, both in England and in the colony, he having found
it beyond his power to liquidate them from the proceeds of
the estates. These lands included eight thousand acres
in the estate of Pageland, in Frederick County, ten thousand
acres in Prince William, four thousand five hundred in Spott-
sylvania, one thousand in King William, two thousand in
Hanover, two thousand in James City, besides lands in
Essex, Gloucester and elsewhere, not enumerated.
Bishop Meade, in his " OM Churches and Families of Vir-
ginia" says : —
" Now it cannot be doubted that the tradition is correct
that much if not all of the original debt was contracted for
the erection of this immense pile of building, every brick of
which, and doubtless much other material, together with the
workmen, were imported from England and not paid for,
except by his agents and frientls there, until the sale of
these lands in Virginia enabled the son, long after, to do it.
The whole of the roof of this ancient building was covered
with heavy lead over the shingles. The result of this im-
mense expenditure was not only the entailing a heavy debt
upon his estate, and the causing a sale of lands which might
have furnished his posterity for some generations with farms,
but the keeping up such an establishment has been a burden
on all who have possessed it to the present day, as must be
the case with all such establishments.
"For a long time old Rosewell has been standing on
Carter's Creek, in sight of York River, like an old deserted
English castle, in solitary grandeur, scarce a tree or shrub
around it to vary or beautify the scene. No one of the name
of him who built it has owned it or could afford to own it for
generations. Some stranger fills the Stuarts' throne. Sic
transit gloria mundi."
But the worthy bishop does not consider the very great
cost of working or even merely owning such a principality
as the Pages governed.
"The Acts of Assembly give us other instances in old
Virginia. Mr. Lewis Burwell, of King's Mill, near Williams-
burg, built a house worthy of his first-born son to live in ;
and that first-born son, after his father's death, was obliged
to petition the legislature for leave to break the entail and
sell a large tract of land in King William to pay for it."
The laws of primogeniture and entail were even more rig-
idly enforced in Virginia than in England, and estates were
handed down for generations in the line of the eldest son.
The Lewis Burwell of King's Mill, whom the bishop
cites in his disapproval of the luxurious and expensive ele-
gance of the colonial houses, was the son of Major Lewis
Burwell and Elizabeth, daughter of the great Robert Carter,
of Corotoman, and a brother of Carter Burwell, who built the
manor-house of Carter's Grove, which we have just described,
in the year 1737. The wife of the latter gentleman was Lucy
Grymes, whose sister married Mann Page, both ladies being
the daughters of the Honorable John Grymes.
A son of Carter Burwell, of the Grove, was Colonel
Nathaniel Burwell, of Carter Hall, in Frederick County.
SHIRLEY.
The old manor-house of Shirley stands upon the brow of
a low bluff on the north shore of the James, just opposite the
mouth of the Appomattox. Westward, across the river, is
the ancient settlement of Bermuda Hundred.
The steamers plying to and from Riclimond will put in at
Shirley landing, or one may reach the old place by way of
Petersburg, coming up from the town to City Point by rail
and depending on the somewhat uncertain chance of finding
a boatman to put one across to Shirley. The row across
from the point is charming on a bright morning, the river
flowing -n a broad and beautiful reach by Shirley. Your
wherry, running in under the tree-crowned, grassy bluif on
which Shirley stands, soon grates her keel upon a little peb-
bly beach; in a moment you have scaled this slope and
stand upon the lawn, the noble front of the ancient manor-
house before you, a great square house, with walls of dull
red brick, two stories high and crowned by a tall, high-
pitched mansard roof.
A stately portico, also in two stories, pleasantly shades the
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Shirley.
entrance-doors and the middle part of the house from the
too-fervid summer suns, lieneath this shelter is a broad
stone platform to which four stone steps, extending the full
width of the portico, lead up from the lawn. There are four
round columns of wood, generous of -girth and turned with
an evident antl graceful entasis. The base of each column
is fluted for about eight inches above a square stone plinth.
The capitals are quite flat. The neck is encircled by a deli-
cate astragal. The abacus is square, with slight thickness
lessened in effect by a cyma on the under edge. A pilaster
finishes against the wall on either side, and between the two
the whole wall beneath the portico is covered with hard white
36
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
plaster. The surface of the ceiling is broken into broad pan-
ellings. A deep entablature, consisting of narrow architrave,
broad plain frieze and boldly projecting cornice rests upon
the columns. Above are reared the more slender columns of
the upper porch, and between them is run a simple balustrade.
The upper entablature is a repetition of that below, except
that the cornice is richer and of
more delicate design, being a con-
tinuation, upon the same level, of
the cornice of the house, and char-
acterized by richer ornainentation
of the corona and a strongly pro-
jecting course of dentil brackets.
The raking and horizontal cornices
of the pediment enclose an unem-
bellished tympanum. The soffit
of the roof is panelled and the
house wall beneath is plastered as
below.
The whole portico, excepting the
stone platform and steps, is painted
in white. It makes a light and
graceful and yet dignified and im-
posing effect. There is a charm-
ing little repetition in half-scale, of
this portico, over the side door of
the house, which has columns, en-
tablature, cornice, pediment and
roof in similar treatment.^
and high, and have double sashes set in heavy white frames
and divided into twenty panes to each window. They have
modern outside slat blinds folded back against the wall, and
are provided on the inside with the old-fashioned solid-
panelled shutters folding in the depth of the generous reveal,
the frames set well to the outside, leaving the thickness of
« the solid walls within.
Flat brick arches crown the
openings. The lines of the old
mansard roof are not unpleasing.
The attic has a good height, the
feet of the rafters are curved out-
ward at the eaves to make a broad
overhang, and the dormers rear
high-peaked gables over all.
The chimneys cut out of the up-
per roof and rear a story's height
above the edge in two massive ob-
long stacks. Between the two the
roof-peak flowers in a great acorn-
shaped wooden finial.
The solid, square bulk of the
old manor-house wears a stately,
high-born air, standing in the midst
of the green lawn, among the great
trees, which stretch out spreading
boughs high in air above the roof-
tree.
On the east side of the lawn, be-
The Pigeon House : Shirley.
The great double portico here described upon the river- hind a fine old box hedge, is an old-fashioned garden, where
front repeats itself upon the land side of the house. Beneath vegetables, fruits and flowers mingle in democratic good
this portico the main entrance opens into the great hall, fellowship — a long garden, where one gets lovely vistas
From the river-side
one enters immedi-
ately into the draw-
ing-room.
Absolute symme-
try of design char-
acterizes the house
in all of its exterior
details. The open-
ings in each story
are exactly over
those below. Even
the five tall dormers
on the front and
rear slopes of the
mansard, flanked
by the four exactly
like them on either
end, correspond in
width and height
with the size of
doors and windows
in the principal
stories.
The walls are
carried up to the
eaves, two stories from the ground, in small English brick,
laid in Flemish bond, without break other than the offset of
the thicker wall below the water-table and a band, slightly
projected and several courses deep, carried around the house
at the second-floor level.
The color is a very rich dull red. The windows are broad
The Staircase Hall: Shirley.
1 See sketch on page 38.
down under the
hanging boughs of
the peach-trees,
where there are a
dial, an arbor, and
all sorts of delight-
ful things of ancient
flavor.
In one of Mr.
Besant's books
*'■ For Faith and
Freedom" he paints
an old English
garden, of which
the Shirley garden
is almost a counter-
part : —
" In the gardens
of the manor-house
the sunflowers and
the hollyhocks
were at their tallest
and best ; the yel-
low roses on the
wall were still in
clusters ; the sweet
peas hung with
tangles of vine and flowers upon their stalks ; the bachelor's
buttons, the sweet mignonette, the nasturtium, the gilly-
flowers and stocks, the sweet-williams and the pansies, open
their late summer blossoms to the hot sun among the lav-
ender, thyme, parsley, sage, feverfew and vervain of my
lady's garden."
On the north side of the lawn are two brick houses of two
stories each in height, containing the kitchen, scullery and
other offices, and the quarters of the domestics.
SHIRLEY.
37
Beyond these a fence shuts off the great, roomy barn-yard,
where there are the long, rambling brick stables, the dairy
and tool-house of brick, queer old log tobacco-houses, and
barns and corn-cribs.
In a field beyond the barn-yard enclosure is a charming
little columbarium, or dove-cote, a round tower built of brick
and crowned by a steep, cone-shaped, shingled roof, ending
in an open lantern or belfry-like turret, in and out of which
pigeons in white and blue and bronze are flying and flashing
in the bright sunshine.
Within the barn-yard droves of turkeys are stepping about,
regiments of white geese hissing as they march; files of
ducks in bravely glistening green and gold march waddling
hither and yon ; clucking hens leading their fluffy broods
hurry in quest of the unwary worm or chance scatterings of
grain, while strutting cocks of gallant mien lord it grandly
over cackling, chattering, idly-wandering wives; here and
there a lazy, lop-eared hound lies stretched asleep where the
On entering, one has the length of the great hall on his
right, with the rich soffit of the stairway overhead. On the
left, a broad door opens through the panelled wall into
the library or morning room, a very charming apartment,
whose walls are wainscoted from floor to ceiling in panels of
considerable size. Opposite the hall-door is the entrance to
the parlor, and opposite this another wide doorway gives
upon the portico on the river-side of the house.
A handsome broad stairway, starting in the right-hand
corner of the hall, by a door opening out upon the little west
porch already described, with three steps up to a first land-
ing, mounts with a luxuriously easy ascent to the second
platform, whence it swings out from the wall across the hall
until it meets the second-floor level.
The side of the first flight is enclosed by a panelled parti,
tion, and a door under the landing opens on the cellar-stairs.
The ends of the treads project beyond the partition, and are
effectively moulded on the under-side. The exposed soffit
Ttie Staircase Hall: Shirley.
sun shines warm ; and down at the stables the boys, with
cheery song and laugh, groom their horses or wash down the
great state-coach.
Beyond the farm premises, landward, stretches the farm
road, under a long avenue of old locusts, across the level
fields, through many gates and up a hill, about half a mile
from the manor-house, on the top of whicli is a row of steep-
roofed board houses, the "quarters of the field-hands" in
the old happy times before the war.
Shirley differs in some essential points from the other
great colonial residences of tide-water James. The plan of
the house is, in fact, very like that of some of the ancient
manoirs of media;val France. Tiie hall does not bisect the
house from front to rear, as usual in houses of the same
period, but occupies the whole northwest quarter of the first
floor. It is a spacious and handsome hall, and gives an air
of baronial grandeur to the house. The principal entrance
is beneath the portico on the land-side by a wide single door.
of the second run presents, also, a rich ornamentation worthy
of note. The bottom step is broader than the rest, and over
its rounded outer end the railing swings out in a spiral twist,
forming a handsome newel. The rail is carried up with
graceful ramps and knees, and is supported on richly-turned
balusters, set three to a tread.
As one stands at the foot and looks up through the well,
the handsome stairway, springing gracefully from floor to
landing, thence to floors above, has a grandly generous and
dignified effect. The walls are panelled for their full height
above the dado in large panels of white-painted wood, as,
indeed, is the case in the four rooms on the first floor.
Opposite the foot of the stairs is a door opening into the
dining-room, a cheery, bright room in the southeast angle of
the house, on the river-side, lighted by four large windows,
two of which look upon the western lawn, and two toward
the river. Upon the panelled walls of this room hang many
interesting old portraits of the famous ones of the race.
38
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Among these is a great, full-length, life-size portrait of George Over the door into the dining-room is a broken pediment,
Washington by the painter Peale, which quite fills up or.e much affected in that period, the raking cornices of which
corner of the room. Washington was not, however, of the are run in graceful curves, ending in a spiral twist and elabo-
blood of the Carters. The open door offers a glimpse down rate rosettes. Between them is carved a pineapple in high
the length of the great parlor toward the southeast corner, in relief. On the dining-room side a Classic urn stands within
which looms a tall old mahogany clock of Liverpool make, the ends of the broken pediment. Glazed transoms of grace-
on either side of which hang portraits, done by Sir Godfrey ful design are set over the outer doors, and over that from the
Kneller, of an eighteenth-century squire and his lady, who hall into the drawing-room. The massive doors are made in
were, if I remember aright, John Carter and his wife, the six raised and bevelled panels, with broad styles and rails,
first Carters of Shirley. and have great rim-locks, drop-handles and other furniture
The south wall of the drawing-room has three openings, of polished brass,
set in deep embrasures in the massive wall, two windows and Two centuries of wear and tear had not impaired the per-
a door, the latter giving upon the river portico ; and there feet condition of the old woodwork, when, in an evil day. the
are two windows in the east wall, from which one looking ever deadly, destroying furnace was set up in the cellar, then
across the lawn to the box-hedged garden, or through the after it had poured its parching breath for scarce as many
trees, has a glimpse of the
broad river glistening beyond.
The drawing-room has half
the width of the whole house.
A wide chimney-breast pro-
jects into the room from the
partition or north wall, and
there is a deep, generous
fireplace, about four feet high
by five feet wide. The fac-
ings of the fireplace are of
white marble, enclosed in a
narrow wood frame boldly
carved with the somewhat
trite egg-and-tongue motive.
Above the frame is set a frieze
of convex form richly and
delicately carved in a con-
ventionalized design showing
flowers bound with crossed
ribbons. Above the frieze a
narrow mantel-shelf is
brought out in well-propor-
tioned members enriched by
refined mouldings. 'J'he
panel covering the breast
over the mantel is set around
with a deep and richly-carved
frame, probably designed to
enclose a great mirror.
The three portraits over the
mantel are done in crayons
by St. Memin, a French artist
:^^
ft-
The West Porch: Shirley.
months through the stately
rooms of the old mansion,
great rents began to appear
in the large panels, built up
of many pieces carefully
joined at the edges, and hori-
zontal seams yawned in the
broad, plain surface of the
dado, mitres becoming un-
pleasantly obvious here and
there, and mouldings shrink-
ing away from their beds.
Shirley was probably so
named in honor of the wife
of Lord De la Warre, a
daughter of Sir Thomas
Shirley, of Whiston. Its
history is almost as long as
that of the colony.
The place was founded by
Sir Thomas Dale, High-Mar-
shal of Virginia, who came
over in 1611 to succeed Lord
De la Warre, and who, after
establishing his city of Hen-
ricus, at Dutch Gap, or Va-
rina, as it was then called,
and set it growing behind its
palisades, laid out the settle-
ments of Bermuda Hundred
and of Shirley Hundred, on
the opposite shore of the
James. His lordship appears
who came to this country about 1789, and who did, likewise, to have been a governor of immense force and untiring
one of the numerous portraits of General Washington. In energy. He soon rid the colony of the hordes of dissipated
the angle of wall and ceiling is set a deep cornice, consisting idlers who had well-nigh wrought its ruin before his coming.
of an architrave marked with light horizontal lines, a project-
ing fillet, a swelling frieze, a hollow moulding ornamented
with delicnte, reed-like, horizontal flutings, a course of
bracket dentils, and over all a boldly-projecting corona.
Close study of detail is everywhere observable in the finish
of this beautiful room. The base, or wash-board, is painted
He set them to work, every man of them, and when a number
of malcontents conspired together to resist his authority, he
arrested and put to death the ringleaders of them by the
pleasantly varied methods of "hanging, shooting, breaking
on the wheel, and the like," while one pernicious fellow, pre-
sumably of doubtful veracity, "had a bodkin thrust through
black, while all above is in white of an antique ivory tone, his tongue, and was chained to a tree until he perished."
Above the base is set a moulding two inches deep, composed l!y means of such novel and convincing arguments did the
of a number of delicate members. 'l"he dado presents a stern old founder of Shirley persuade the adventurers that
plain, unbroken surface, and is capped by a chair-board four he meant to be obeyed, and he very speedily brought the
inches deep, moulded in pleasing form. In each of the great colony into a better state.
panels above hangs the portrait of some fair chatelaine of In the terrible Indian massacre of 1622, Shirley seems to
Shirley, usually displaying a generous expanse of snowy have escaped without loss.
neck, or of some burly squire resplendent in curling wig and Colonel Edward Hill, who built his house at Shirley in
falling laces. 1640, was elected speaker of the House of Burgesses in 1654,
BERKELEY.
39
and two years later led a force of Virginians, with one hun-
dred friendly Indians of the Pamunkey tribe, against seven
hundred hostile Riecabecrians who had descended the James
from their hunting-grounds beyond the Blue Ridge, and
encamped near Richmond, greatly alarming the settlers.
Colonel Hill fell upon their camp and fought a great battle,
but he was routed and fled in great disorder, leaving among
the dead upon the field his faithful ally, Totapotomoi, Chief
of the Pamunkeys. Twenty years later, in Bacon's As-
sembly, the widow of the fallen brave appeared before the
Burgesses to answer, as "Queen of the Pamunkeys," a de-
mand upon her tribe for fighting men to help the colonists
against the threatening redskins. She was accompanied by
her stripling son, " whose father was said to be an English
colonel," and dressed in the picturesque splendor of the sav-
age she bore herself with royal mien, replying to the ques-
tions of the Burgesses in "a high, shrill voice, and with
BERKELEY.
The ancient place of Berkeley was probably settled soon
after Shirley and by some of that company of Sir Thomas
Dale's which located at Bermuda Hundred in 1611.
The gentle 'I'horpe, friend and teacher of the Indians
who swarmed the banks of the lower James in those early
times, was slaughtered here in the Massacre of 1622 by his
treacherous pupils, on the ground where he had labored with
such loving zeal for their enlightenment.
The present house of Berkeley was built a century later.
A date cut in the bricks on the northeast corner of the
house — 17 E H 25 — maybe accepted as fair evidence of
the age of the structure, which is very plain and unpre-
tentious and lays small claim to any great interest of an
architectural kind.
There is a broad veranda around the four sides of the
lierkelev.
vehement passion — 'Totapotomoi chepiak' — -Totapotomoi
is dead." Her words were interpreted to the assembly
by Colonel Hill, of Shirley, the son of the hero of the
Riecabecrian fight.
Shirley passed into the hands of the Carters with the
marriage of John Carter, a son of "King Carter of Coroto-
nian," to Elizabeth Hill, who inherited her father's estate
and manor-house of Shirley.
A sketch of the great genealogical tree which, from the
parent stem at Shirley, has shot out branches covering the
whole of Tidewater Virginia is not to be attempted in a
paper of limited scope. The family boasts a vast connec-
tion, indefinitely extended by intermarriages among the great
families of the neighboring boroughs and parishes. The age
of the manor-house of Shirley has been variously stated, and
it has been assigned to a date as early as the middle of the
seventeenth century, though it is far more probable, and in-
deed quite evident, that the old house does not antedate the
first quarter of the eighteenth century.
house — a modern addition, and an innovation wiiich must
add greatly to the comfort of the place.
The old colonists were rather too orthodox in their careful
imitation of the English models after which they built, and
they used many features which, thougli quite appropriate in
the climate of the mother country, must have made their
homes upon the lower James decidedly uncomfortable in the
fervid summer heat of that favored region. In our own day
no one would forego, in a country house, the indispensable
luxury of a generous veranda for the sake of an academic
exactitude in style, but in the majority of the earlier colonial
houses there was nothing to shelter the walls from the
noonday glare. Perhaps in point of greater adaptability to
conditions and circumstances our later methods are truer, in
this respect at least.
The wood-work of the interior of ]5erkeley is simple but
good. The frieze and cornice in tlie principal rooms are
ver) refined, and the parlor contains a very graceful mantel;
the treatment of the arch on either side of the chimney
40
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
breast in this room is also wortii studying. Berkeley has not
been well kept up. It has passed out of the hands of the
descendants of its founders, the Harrisons of Berkeley, and
has in consequence suffered many changes.
"Of all the ancient families in the colony," says Griggsby,
" that of Harrison, if not the oldest, is one of the oldest.
The original ancestor, some time before the year 1645, had
come over to the colony ; but as his name does not appear
in the list of early patentees recorded by Burk it is probable
that he purchased land already patented or may have en-
gaged in mercantile pursuits. The first born of the name in
the colony of whom we have any distinct record was Benja-
min Harrison, who became a member of the Council and was
speaker of the House of Burgesses, and died in the South-
wark Parish, in the County of Surrey, in the year 17 [2, in
his sixty-second year." Mr. Griggsby thinks it probable that
his father was the Herman Harrison who came over in what
is called in Smith's History "the second supply," or Master
John Harrison, who was Governor in 1623, and adds " that
from the year 1645 to this date — a period of more than two
centuries — the name has been distinguished for the patriot-
ism, the intelligence, and the moral worth of those who have
borne it."
Of the Benjamin Harrison of Surrey, born in Southwark
Parish in 1645, ^" epitaph declares : " Here lieth the body of
the Honorable Benjamin Harrison, Esquire, who did justice,
loved mercy, and walked humbly with his God, was always
loyal to his Prince and a great benefactor to his country.''
The first of the name was a zealous friend of the church
and a liberal contributor, his posterity have ever continued
true to it, and the last two inembers, with their families, have
done much to its partial revival within the last forty years.
The ministers have ever found their seats to be hospitable
homes when in that part of the parish. They have set good
examples in the religious teaching of their servants, and in
order to promote this, have built a chapel between them for
the especial benefit of the same.
dull red of the old English brick is just apparent in a sub-
dued glow of color. On the edge of the trees there is a
perfect village of out-buildings, barns, stables, cow houses,
corn cribs, the smithy, the chicken-house, the dairy and in-
r--.- ^
WESTOVER.
Looking across the level fields from the generous veranda
of Berkeley, the eye seeks out a group of tall trees, not far
Back Gate, Westo
off upon the river side. Through the interlacing limbs and
branches, bare in the late November days, one makes out
the solid bulk of a great square building with steep roof
and tall chimneys towering up among the tree-tops. The
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The Staircase-tiall : Westover.
numerable smaller structures. A road winds across the
farm-lands toward the buildings. It is the old manor-house
of Westover, standing proudly beneath its ancestral oaks.
From the broad, smooth lawn which runs to the river bank
on the south side of the house, one is impressed with the
simple grandeur of the front. The brick walls are two
stories in height, with a generous base, and fitly crowned
with a fine sweep of roof. The only bit of e.xterior detail
making the least pretension to richness is about the door-
way, which is flanked by broad, fluted pilasters surmounted
by richly-carved Corinthian capitals, and crowned by the
broken pediment so much u.sed in the architecture of that
day. The rest is but plain brick wall, pierced, in absolute
regularity, with windows. On the left, or west, is a low wing
containing the kitchen, and joined to the house by a covered
way. Beyond is another out-building, and, farther on, the
eye follows an old box-hedge bordering the generous stretch
of the gardens.
A broad and easy flight of stone steps, much worn and
chipped and stained by time, leads up to the door, and, look-
ing in through the open portal, one sees a great hall with
stone floor and panelled walls, and a splendid stairway in
rich old black mahogany, ascending by easy stages to the
upper apartments. Everywhere there is breadth, simplicity,
elegance, in the aspect of the interior. The state-rooms open
out of this great hall, which, by the way, has a door opposite
the one just described. This door gives upon the rear, or
garden, side of the house. There is a gravel walk running
straight down to the gates, which are of wrought-iron tracery
quite good in design. The gate-posts are surmounted by a
couple of eagles made up of wood and tin in quite a fearful
and wonderful way, and wearing, in truth, a very dingy and
dejected air. Presutnably, these birds have succeeded a pair
of eagles in bronze, doubtless heraldic emblems of the
family of Byrd. Upon this I am, however, without definite
knowledge, never having had the luck to come across a book-
plate or crest of the founder of Westover.
There seems to me always something very satisfying in the
effect of one of these old colonial rooms. In the first place,
they are generally, as at Westover, square in shape, and with
good proportions of height of walls to floor-area. The eye
WESTOVER.
41
rests with quiet pleasure on the low, plain dado, with low
base and surbase of simple mouldings, not seldom enriched
with some flutings or other carved work. Above this, the
walls are covered with wood-work in large panels defined by
rails and styles of good width, the whole surmounted by a
good frieze and rich cornice projecting well upon the ceiling.
The ceilings are generally whitewashed, but frequently
enriched with exceedingly delicate and graceful relief-work
in plaster. The whitewash is not seldom the expression of
some modern housewife's ill-directed efforts at neatness.
At Mount Vernon, they found under the scales of lime in
one of the smaller rooms a ceiling tinted in a soft tan color,
upon which the rayons of plaster-of-Paris or putty in half-
relief are charmingly brought out. The pictures of the
drawing-room at Shirley will present all this I have been
trying to describe about as wells as views of any other house
in Virginia. It is veritably a charming old house. The
same treatment of interior is found at Westover.
There in the great panels hang the ancestors, looking
blandly forth from
their ancient can-
vases, the sheen of
their silks somewhat
dulled and the bloom
of their snowy necks
a trifle faded, per-
haps, and with a fine
crackle over the sur-
face, but showing an
added depth in the
tones of velvets and
of the sombre back-
grounds in which
they have gained in
suggestiveness more
than has been lost
in clearness of detail
and brilliancy of
color. Westover
possesses many well-
nigh inestimable
treasures of this sort.
Its walls are en-
riched with the work
of many a famous hand. There is an authentic Sir Godfrey
Kneller, and even a Van Dyck. There are two Knellers, in
fact, the portraits of William Byrd and his daughter Evelyn.
" Byrd of Westover " was a great gentleman, and while he
was in London he cut a notable figure, as indeed he did also
at the court of France. And among the noblemen whom he
made his friends there was one, young Lord Peterboro', of a
distinguished Roman Catholic family, who would have made
sweet Evelyn his lady had not that irascible old Protestant,
Colonel Byrd, who firmly opposed the match from the first,
hurried the girl across the seas to Westover, and there shut
her up, to die, the legend hath it, of a broken heart — or of
boredom, perhaps — for to a London-bred girl and one ac-
customed to the splendors of the Court circle of England, it
may have been, at times, a trifle dull at this grand old home
of her father's on the River James. Fancy that there were
no roads of a passable character in those days, and that the
gentry went about to one another's houses in pinnaces and
rowboats, and also that in the sparsely settled country there
were but a handful of people within reach of Westover, and
one can readily believe that those were dreary days for the
poor child so cruelly torn from the arms of her lover, and
Westover.
from the friendships of her youth. Her tomb is there in the
garden near-by among other monuments. There was a
chapel there in Evelyn's time, rebuilt afterward at Evelynton.
In the third Colonel Byrd's time the incumbent of West-
over church was one Dunbar, who has left behind him the
record of a life of not unquestionable saintliness. He was
indeed, even in those hard-drinking, free days, notorious as
a drunkard and gambler. He carried a message once from
Benjamin Harrison of Berkeley to Benjamin Harrison of
Brandon. What was the cause of disagreement between
those distinguished gentlemen, and whatever came of it
is not clearly set forth, but the point is — and I think it is
Bishop Meade who tells the story — the cartel was delivered
through the kind offices of the parson. He was himself one
of the principals in a duel growing out of a disputed bet —
upon a horse-race — and he is said to have wounded his
adversary.
The first Colonel Byrd was the author of the ^'' Byrd Manu-
script" an unpublished memoir which has the distinction of
being the only exist-
ing literary relic of
early Colonial times
in Virginia. He was
the founder of Rich-
mond and of Peters-
burg. His heir, the
second Colonel Wil-
liam Byrd, of West-
over, greatly in-
creased the extent
of the estate by the
acquisition of great
bodies of land in
Virginia and North
Carolina.
This gentleman
was educated in
England, and after-
ward lived at West-
over in the same
princely state as did
his father before
him. The house
was famous for hos-
pitality and good cheer, nor has it yet forgotten to exercise,
as of old, these generous qualities. Tiie life was that of the
landed gentry of Mother England. Culture and refinement
in a high degree must have been the characteristics of the
builders and dwellers of these fine old manors.
There is a restful, simple dignity about them, unspeakably
grateful to the modern observer weary at heart of tiie turgid
over-decoration of the interiors of our great houses of to-day.
There is reserve in the old work. There are broad, plain
surfaces where the imagination reposes comfortably. Deco-
ration is focussed, not spread lavishly over everything.
Perhaps the frieze of a mantel, very richly and delicately
carved, or an elaborated entablature crowning the architrave
of a doorway, gives the centre, the keynote, of the room.
Nothing is forced. Odd effects are not sought. The result
is restful, refined, satisfying. The aim of all good work
should be to reach something of this sort, not necessarily
following the model with too much servility, but certainly
always holding the hand, leaving something undone, avoiding
a too-startling originality.
The art that can stir the imagination and move the soul
by simple means is great art.
42
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
But I am forgetting that there is yet another Colonel Byrd
to be disposed of, and it will be remarked that the rank of
colonel seems to have been an inheritance pertaining to
the firstborn male child of a Byrd of Westover. It was,
perhaps, entailed with the estates.
The third William Byrd was born in 1728, and in 1737 the
present manor of Westover was built. He entered into en-
joyment of his estates in the year 1744. He saw service
during the French and Indian wars, and was at Fort Cumber-
land with George Washington in August, 1758, in command
of a regiment of Virginia volunteers. He took unto wife
Elizabeth Heil Carter, of the neighboring manor of Shirley,
and subsequently, upon the demise of this estimable lady,
was married to Mistress Mary Willing, of Pliiladelphia.by
whom he had eight children, three of whom in due time
married members of the Har-
rison family, one a Page, one a
Nelson and one a Meade.
The Colonel lived much
abroad, and was a man of fash-
ion in the London of his day.
Rather recklessly indulgent of
his gambling proclivities, he
left his estate in debt when he
died in 1777.
The widow Jived until the
year 18 14. She has been ac-
cused of plotting to assist Ar-
nold, and letters from her were,
in fact, found aboard one of his
vessels which got aground in
the river and fell into the
hands of the patriots. At her
death, Westover passed away
from the family of the founder.
%.^
NORFOLK.
In the course of our wander-
ings we had come down to old
Norfolk town to hunt up such
bits of the Colonial work as
had, perchance, survived the
march of progress and the de-
stroying hand of time, that de-
vourer of things, in the ancient
borough. We had known that the place was old, as antiquity
goes in America, its existence running as far back as the year
1682, in which far-away time the site was chosen on the
spot where, a hundred years before, there had gleamed the
wigwams of a large village of the Chesapeake Indians.
In the year 1585 Captain Ralph Lane had reached this
point in his exploration of the country to the northward of
Roanoke Island, on whose sandy shores had landed a de-
tachment of the Sir Richard Greville expedition, sent out
by the great Raleigh to finally struggle to this haven, after
suffering hardships unnumbered and a long chapter of
"moving accidents by flood and field."
Nearly a century had rolled away into the mists since that
portentous landing on a low, marshy island in yellow Pow-
hatan, in 1607, of Captain John Smith and his band of ad-
venturers, and the growing port had assumed such impor-
tance as to warrant a formal establishment by an Act of
the Colonial Legislature at Williamsburg, approved by llie
The Parlor Chimneypiece: Westover,
brilliant Spotswood in 1705. In 1736 a Royal Charter was
granted to the Borough of Norfolk under the hand and seal
of the last Sovereign of the House of Stuart, Queen Anne.
It was the sole seaport of the great colony of Virginia, and
there had grown up a considerable commerce upon which the
• subsequent substantial prosperity of the town was builded.
In 1728 the little town was already become "the most city-
like town in Virginia." This was in the reign of the second
George, " the most prosperous period," says Hallam, " that
England had ever known," and in the golden days of Hume,
Smollett, Harry Fielding, Doctor Samuel Johnson, Pope,
Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir Christopher Wren. Keeping pace
with the growth of the colony, the town was waxing rich and
great.
In 1769 the imports of Virginia, passing through the port
of Norfolk, amounted to as
much as eight hundred and
fifty-one thousand pounds sterl-
ing. In 1776 the population
numbered about six thousand
souls, and Norfolk was a city
of prosperous merchants,
" many of whom possessed
affluent fortunes," albeit the
affluence of the day was ex-
pressed in figures which would
represent a very modest com-
petence ill our times. In that
disastrous year, however, the
War of Independence had be-
gun, and the fortunes of Nor-
folk received a terrible check
in the bombardment by the
fleet of Lord Dunmore, the last
of the Royal governors, dis-
lodged by the rebels from his
palace at Williamsburg and
smarting to avenge his recent
discomfiture at Great Bridge.
The great warehouses and
stores of the place, filled with
the riches of the West Indian
and Colonial trade, went up in
the flames, together with the
elegant mansions of the wealthy
merchants and the humbler
homes of the townsfolk. The
loss of property amounted to
upward of three hundred thousand pounds sterling, and
great distress ensued, the fortunes of the town only begin-
ning to recover from the blow toward the close of the war.
There remains to-day, therefore, very little of the old work
worth studying.
Almost the only public building of any consequence to
escape the general ruin was the parish church, built in 1739,
now Saint Paul's, the chief Episcopal church in Norfolk.
The old church itself is of small interest externally, and,
besides, the original interior finish was destroyed by fire
long ago. We had expected to find in the gates of the wall
enclosing the yard some remnant of good old wrought-iron
work, but on examination were forced to set them down as
somewhat common-place and uninteresting. Inside the
gates, however, the ancient City of the Dead, about two acres
in area, is very beautiful. Here and there among the shrub-
bery one stops to make out the nearly elTaced inscriptions of
an old headstone. There are no tombs, however, so rich in
NORFOLK.
43
design or in carvings of mortuary emblem and heraldic device
as those we sketched in the shady yard of old Bruton Parish :
the honest burghers of Norfolk sleep in less pomp and state
than the grandees of the old Colonial capital.
The church is disappointing from an architectural point-
of-view, and is only saved from ugliness by the rich masses
of ivy clinging to its walls. The verger pointed out
the date, 1739, cut in the bricks, with the letters S. B.,
presumably meaning St.
Bride's, the original title of
the parish.
Set as a panel in the outer
wall is an ancient headstone
from Wyanoke-on-the-James,
bearing the date 1637, and
high up in one corner, just
under the cornice, a well-rusted
cannon-ball is half embedded
in the bricks, fired from one
of Dunmore's ships on the
night of the bombardment. In-
side the church there is not
much to see. Architecturally,
indeed, the interior is devoid
of interest.
Rambling about among the
older streets, one is halted
here and there by the discovery of a fairly good bit of old
work, a doorway,' perhaps, the portico enclosed with wrought-
iron railings of simple forms, set between gracefully-tapering
fluted columns which support the shingled roof, the small
gable or pediment, displaying often some detail of delicate
beauty, and the broad, panelled door, flanked by carved
pilasters, a good fan-light filling the round arch above, the
wood-work in old white, the door of sombre green, from which
gleam the polished brasses of knocker and knob.
The house we have chosen for illustration is by far the
most interesting ex-
ample of Georgian
work to be found in
Norfolk, and though
built at the close of
the war, it is dis-
tinctly in the style
in its very complet-
est development. It
stands upon the cor-
ner of Freemason
and Bank Streets,
and is a charming
old bit of architect-
ure, well kept up and
intelligently guarded
from modernizing in-
novations by the ap-
preciative good taste
of the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Barton Myersi 'Die walls are
laid up in Flemish bond in coarse, large bricks, which were
doubtless moulded near-by. The joints are coarse. The
window-heads are reinforced with flat arches of cut stone vous-
soirs. The sills are of wood. The portico is all in wood, ex-
cept platform and steps, which are of marble. All wood-work
outside, except the mahogany doors, is painted white.
1 Plate 21, Part VI.
'We have held our forms beyond the '• last moment," hopinj^ to
secure certain promised detailed information concerning tliese
The hall is large and imposing, showing a very beautiful
frieze and cornice, and an effective ceiling decoration of
plaster in half-relief. The staircase is broad, but plainly
treated. There is a graceful mantel in the parlor, rich in
carving. The floors throughout the house are noticeably
hard, smooth and well-preserved. They are in quartered
oak, about four inches wide.
The dining-room, opening out of the parlor, is a great,
generous room and full of light.
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' Sabine Hall," Kichmond County, Va.
The octagonal end, pierced
with three ample windows, be-
neath which a seat runs, gives
character to the stately room.
In two wide but shallow re-
cesses over which the plaster
forms a round arch stand a
pair of richly blackened ma-
hogany sideboards, hearing a
great wealth of handsome old
silver and cut-glass. At the
end opposite the windows is the
fireplace, which has a facing
of white marble pilasters sur-
mounted by three panels, those
at the ends having heads carved
upon them, aijd that in the
centre a reclining female figure.
There is no shelf, and this facing is low.
All the heavy interior doors are made in six panels, and
are painted in a dark tint, upon which the great shining brass
rim-locks, with quaint and graceful drop-handles, shine out
with rich effect.
The dado in the hall and principal rooms is about two
feet six inches high, without panels. The baseboard is four
inches high, painted black and finished with a moulding in
white, about two inches high. The cap of the dado is about
two inches deep, including a frieze of delicate flutes. The
casings of doors and
windows are about
four-and- one-half
inches wide, and are
noticeable for a deli-
cate little rounding
dentiform member.
The ample hall
extends across the
end of the house full
width on the first and
second floors, the
stairs swinging up
across one end of
it. Beside the front
door, which opens
in the middle of the
facade, there is a
door giving upon the
garden, under the stairs, and, in the opposite end of the
oblong, another opening upon the side street. Doors open
directly into the parlor and library, which together occupy
the full width of the house. It is my impression that there
is no door between these rooms.
There is a door on either side of the parlor fireplace opening
houses which are said to be both architecturally and historically
interesting. We only know that they are botli Carter places.
'I'hev serve a certain pur])ose, however, in s'lowing additional
samples of late Soutliern Colonial work. — Ed.
44
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
ing into the great dining-room already described, and from
the library there is an inferior passageway to the dining-
room also, but I think that this is really a sort of pantry, and
that the only way to the dining-room is through the parlor.
The plan upstairs is about the same, except that from the
hall, which swings across the whole front, there leads off at
right angles a passageway, on either side of which are the
chambers. In some of these there are rich woodwork and
decorative plaster relievos.
MOUNT VERNON.
Of the small house on the Potomac in Westmoreland
County where Washington was born, on the nth (old style)
of February, 1731 only enough remains to point out the
actual site.
From the year 1742 until the end, the life of Washing-
ton is closely associated with Mount Vernon. His father,
Augustine Washington, dying in 1743, left the estate of
Hunting Creek, near Alexandria, to Lawrence, a son by his
first wife, and George Washington's half brother. Lawrence
Washington held a Captain's commission in the joint expedi-
tion of General Wentworth and Admiral Vernon against
Carthagena, which ended in disaster to the British arms.
Lawrence had, however, gained the friendship of the two
commanders and corresponded, for some years afterward,
with Admiral Vernon, in whose honor he named his seat on
the Potomac. The estate contained several hundred acres,
lying along the Potomac and bordering tlie lands of the
Fairfaxes and Masons, and here Lawrence Washington after
his marriage with Anne Fairfax resided continuously.
Beautifully situated on the brow of an eminence which
sweeps down in a wooded slope to a bluff upon the river,
his house stands about one hundred feet above the water.
It now forms the central portion, or body, of the Mount
Vernon mansion, the wings having been added by George
Washington at the close of the War of the Revolution. It
was unpretentious, as compared with the manorial seats of
the great planters on the James River, and elsewhere in Vir-
ginia, but was none the less evidently the home of a gentlfe-
man of the first social importance. This was the home of
Washington's boyhood. His elder brother filled the place
of father to him. At " Belvoir," the seat of the Fairfaxes,
whose great estates were managed for Lord Fairfax, absent
in England, by his cousin, the father-in-law of Lawrence,
George was ever on terms of affectionate intimacy. And
when the Lord Fairfax, weary of the world and its falsities,
among which rumor hath it he had found that cruellest
deceit of all, a lovely jilt, came over to live upon his great
Virginia possessions, the boy Washington soon won his close
friendship and profited greatly in the forming of his character
by his intimacy with that eccentric but high-minded nobleman.
Deciding to dive deeper into the wilderness and to make
his home upon his estates beyond the Blue Ridge, Lord Fair-
fax took the boy of sixteen with him to survey his great lands
in that region, a work which gave him three years of rough
and stirring frontier life, and built up in him a self-reliance
upon which he drew largely in the great events of after years.
Washington often subsequently visited the lonely old lord at
his lodge " Greenway Court " near the Shenandoah, where he
lived a recluse among his dogs and hunters and Indians, and
this confidential intercourse with a man trained in the ele-
gancies of the aristocratic old world, a man of parts who
knew the wits of his day, Addison and Steele, and the rest of
them, and who had even contributed to letters an occasional
paper in the " Spectator" had an effect upon the young ex^
panding mind which is plain to read in his career, and served
also to cement a warm and lasting regard between these
strangely mated friends.
Lawrence Washington was a personage in the Colony.
His house and that of Belvoir were much visited by people
of distinction from the mother country, officers of the army
and navy, and travellers of note.
Lawrence died in 1751, leaving Mount Vernon to his
daughter, with George Washington as executor and residuary
legatee. This child lived only a short time. Washington
thus became the owner of Mount Vernon, and of a con-
siderable estate which placed him in the list of the wealthier
planters of Virginia. He had become already a distin-
guished figure in the public eye when he gave Mount Vernon
its mistress in January, 1759. The marriage took place at
the White House, in Kent County, near Williamsburg, where
Washington was then in attendance as member of the House
of Burgesses. At the close of the session he took his wife
and her two children, John Parke Custis and Martha Parke
Custis, to Mt. Vernon.
At this time Washington wrote to his friend Richard
Washington in London : " I am now, I believe, fixed in this
seat with an agreeable partner for life, and I hope to find
more happiness in retirement than I ever experienced in the
wide and bustling world."
He was in his twenty-seventh year, a tall man, 6 feet
2 inches, well formed and featured, as we know, in superb
health and with an ample fortune of his own, to which the
Widow Custis brought very considerable additions in bonds
and certificates of deposit in the Bank of England. She was
handsome, intelligent, vivacious, the richest woman in Vir-
ginia, and three years his senior. Washington described
Mount Vernon of that day as follows: "A high, healthy
country, in a latitude between the extremes of cold and heat,
on one of the finest rivers in the world. . . . The borders of
the estate are washed by more than ten miles of tide-water;
several valuable fisheries appertain to it ; the whole shore, in
fact, is one entire fishery." The house was, as Lawrence
Washington left it, a two-storied building with a portico
toward the river. The principal floor was divided into four
rooms bisected by a wide hall ; there was a chimney at each
end of the house, which was otherwise provided with the
usual arrangements of the day.
Washington ordered some new furniture from England.
He had out, also, clothes, books, etc., from London. He
had good horses and dogs, whose names appear in the
household books which he regularly kept. At this time he
rode a good deal to hounds with his neighbors, the Fairfaxes,
Masons, Thurstons and others. He appeared abroad gen-
erally on horseback and attended by his "body-servant,"
Bishop, in scarlet livery. Washington's good horsemanship
was another benefit from his early association with Lord
Fairfax. He was regularly at the meets of the Belvoir pack
when his lordship was Master of Hounds, and Fairfax took
pains to correct his seat and show him how to " ride straight,"
as they say in the hunting-field.
On Sundays the family drove to Pohick Church in a
chariot and four, handsomely trapped and well cared for, with
negro postilions in livery. He had a barge on the river,
with a black crew in his colors. "Mount Vernon," "Gunston
Hall" and "Belvoir" were then the social centres of the
region, and their masters maintained a certain state.
As Washington remained for fifteen years a member of
the Virginia House of Burgesses, the family was much at
MOUNT VERNON.
45-
Williamsburg. There were also visits to Annapolis. When
at home Washington looked after his farms and affairs. We
have his methodically-kept accounts and his diary covering
forty years.
An early riser, he was accustomed to visit his stables and
to spend some time in his library before breakfast. In 1768,
he counts loi cows on the estate. He daily rode about his
lands unattended, directing everything. The farms were
well kept up and productive. Wheat and tobacco were his
main crops. He was then farming upwards of four thousand
acres. He sent wheat and tobacco from his own wharf to
England and West Indian ports.
In 1774, Washington left Mount Vernon with Lee and
Pendleton for Philadelphia. William Fairfax was in England,
never to return. Belvoir was burned. Unrest was abroad
in the land. Great events were pending. From '74 to '83,
when he retired from the Army, Washington was at Mount
Vernon very seldom, and never for longer than a few weeks,
or, more frequently, days at a time. During this period Mrs.
Washington usually wintered with her husband in camp,
returning home with the spring. John Parke Custis, by this
time provided with a wife and young family, lived at Mount
Vernon for the seven years of the War, Lund Washington,
a relative, managing the place during this time.
Lord Dunmore came up the river, in 1775, to capture the
wife and destroy the
property of Washing-
ton, but was inter-
cepted by a force of
militia. An English
ship-ofwar threaten-
ing to bombard the
place in 1781, but
Lund Washington
bought off her cajv
tain with needed sup)-
plies, for which
Washington later se-
verely rebuked his
kinsman. In Sep)-
tember of the same year, the master himself had a day at home,
passed in going over his affairs, and the ne.\t day received
there the French noblemen, Rochambeau and de Chastellux
and their suites, with whom he went on to Lafayette's camp
at Williamsburg to prepare the crowning victory of the war
at Yorktown. Before they left Mount Vernon, however,
there was a great dinner, with many guests bidden from the
country-side, and Washington's beloved grandchildren sat at
board with the great gentlemen. Their father, John Parke
Custis, followed in Washington's train as aide, and died of
camp fever a few days after the surrender at Yorktown.
Washington adopted the two younger children, Eleanor
Parke Custis, who had just two-and-a-half years, and George
Washington Parke Custis, of the tender age of six months.
It was Christmas Eve, 1783, when the General reached
Mount Vernon after the resignation of his Commission to
the Congress at Annapolis. There followed a severe winter,
which brought him the needed quiet and rest.
But the world sought him out in his retirement, and the
old house soon showed itself all too small to accommodate
the distinguished guests who flocked to him there. Deciding
to enlarge the house and adorn the grounds, he developed
the arrangement of the present buildings. He was his own
architect, personally drawing all the plans and elevations,
which were carefully calculated and figured, and preparing
the specification of labor and material for the workmen.
The East Front : Mount Vernon
Leaving the old house of Lawrence Washington practically
intact, he built on to either gable, extending the roof in hipped
form over the new wings. The mansion stands to-day as he
left it. It has two stories and a generous garret, is 96 feet
long by 30 feet, with a piazza, or portico, extending the
whole length of the eastern, or river, front, its roof car-
ried on square columns, above the entablature of which
runs a light balustrade. Three dormer-windows pierce the
river-side of the roof ; there are two on the west, and one on
each of the ends. A small observatory with spire cuts the
centre of the ridge. The house* is entirely of wood, very
solidly framed. The outer covering is of broad and thick
boards, worked into chamfered panels to give the appear-
ance of carved stonework. Theoretically these should have
been split and rotted long ago by sun and rain, but, in fact,
they have held their own as well as any other part of the
staunch old building.
The plan shows a wide central hallway, into which open
two rooms on either hand, and whose western end is occu-
pied by a broad and heavy stairway reaching, in two runs,
the chambers above. To the north are a reception-room
and parlor from which doors open into the great drawing-
room occupying the whole of the northern addition. This
last is a handsome chamber, with a deep cove above the
panelling and a ceiling richly ornamented in stucco relief.
The pitch of this
_j._ room is high and its
whole effect is stately.
The other chambers
and the hall are of
very moderate
height.
On the south of
the hallway are the
dining-room, a parlor,
the library, and a
breakfast-room, from
which a small stair
ascends to the second
floor. A segmental
arcaded passageway, or pergola, connects this end of the
house to the kitchen-building, beyond which is another build-
ing for house-servants' quarters. This arrangement is ex-
actly balanced on the north wing, the house opposite the
kitchen being used for office and storerooms. The plan
shows the relative positions of these auxiliaries, which have
been in nowise changed.
Washington's careful consideration of details in these
building-operations is instanced in the frequently quoted
letter to Mr. Wm. Rumney, of Alexandria, on his departure
for England : —
"General Washington presents his compliments to Mr. Rumney
. . . would esteem it as a particular favour if Mr. Rumney would
make the following enquiries as soon as convenient after bis
arrival in England, and communicate the result of them by the
Packet, or any other safe and expeditious conveyance to tliis
country.
^^ First. — The terms upon which tlie best kind of Whitehaven
flagstone — black and white in equal quantities — could be de-
livered at the port of Alexandria, by the su])erficial foot — work-
manship, freight and every otlier incidental charge included.
" The stone to be 2 1-2 inches, or thereabouts, thick ; and ex.ictly
a foot square, each kind.
" To have a rich-polished face and good joint.s, so that a neat floor
may be made therewith.
" 5Vvo«(/. ^ Upon wliat terms the common Irish marble (l>Iack-
and-white, if to be had) — same dimensions, could be delivered as
above.
> Plate 33, I'art VI.
40
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
.. Third — As the General has been informed of a very cheap
kind of marble, -ood in quality, at or in the neighborhood of
Ostend, he would'thank Mr. Kumney, if it should fall in his way,
to institute an enquiry into this also.
••On the Report of Mr. Rumnev, the General will take his ulti-
mate determination; for which reason he prays him to be precise
and exact The Piazza or Colonnade for which this is wanted as
k rioor is 92 feet 8 inches by 12 feet 8 inches within the margin
or border that surrounds it. Over and above the quantity here
mentioned, if the above Hags are cheap, he would get as much as
would lav doors in the circular colonnades, or covered ways at the
win"-s of' the house — each of which at the outer curve is 38 feet
in fength by 7 feet 2 inches in breadth, within the margin or
border as aforesaid. , , • i 1
•• The General being in want of a house-joiner and bricklayer
who understand their respective trades perfectly, would thank Mr.
Rumney for enquiring into the terms upon which such workmen
might be engaged for two or three years (the time of service to
commence upon the ship's arrival at Alexandria); a shorter term
than two vears would not answer because foreigners generally
have a seasoning which with other interruptions too frequently
wastes the greater part of the first year — more to the disadvan-
tage of the employer than the employed. Bed, board and tools to
be'' found by the former, clothing by the latter.
'• If two men of the above Trades and of orderly and quiet de-
portment could be obtained for twenty-five or even thirty pounds
sterling per annum each (estimating the dollar at 4.f. 6(/.), the
General, rather than sustain the loss of time necessary for com-
munication would be obliged to Mr. Rumney for entering in
proper obligatory articles of agreement on his behalf with them
and sending them by the first vessel bound to this port."
"Mount Vernon, July 5, 1784."
His diaries and the various collections of his letters and
writings are full of similar examples of the care and compre-
hensive intelligence with which Washington discharged the
multifarious duties of his public and private hfe. Mean-
while he was giving much attention to the selection of trees
from his forests for transplanting into the grounds.^ His
diaries record his habit of riding nearly every day to the
woods to seek additions to his lawn-trees and shrubbery.
The lawn and gardens on the west or land side of the house,
where was the approach from the pubhc highway, covered
about twenty acres. The gardens were enclosed in brick
walls. The flower-garden lay to the north, perhaps because
that side was farther removed from the stables, which were
to the south and adjoining the vegetable-garden. The latter
has a southerly slope and a very sheltered situation. The
lawn is broad and of handsome effect. It is bordered on
either hand by a driveway in easy curves, and the trees were
The Sunrise Tavern, Fredericksburg. — Fredericksburg,
too, is a " happy hunting-ground " for the antiquarian. Wherever
Washington's Chamber: Sunrise Tavern, Fredericksburg, Va.
he turns he finds an echo of the spirit of the jjast. One of the
(piaintest spots in the Old iiurg is the famous .Sunrise Tavern
grouped along its edges and back to the garden walls.
Among them were some fine shade-trees. On the plan
drawn by Washington we have the name and place of each
written in or indicated by letters and numerals in the
accompanying memorandum.
In the oval described by the carriage-way before the west-
ern door was a grass-plot with a dial-post in its centre, or, at
least, so it was intended. A new dial-post was set there
some years back, but it is not in keeping, being elaborated
with Gothic mouldings. Otherwise nothing is changed.
There are some fine old trees surviving of those Washington
planted in 1784-5, and where the originals have been suc-
ceeded by younger growth, these latter stand as much as
possible in the positions given upon his plan. The two
small octagon garden-houses built by Washington for seeds,
tools, and other purposes, have been restored to their origi-
nal appearance. They have brick bases and are boarded, in
imitation of stone-forms, after the manner of the dwelling-
house. The heavy brick walls around the two gardens re-
main in good state, even to their brick coping.
The conservatory on the north side of the flower garden,
destroyed by fire, with the adjoining servants' quarters in
1835, has also been rebuilt. Lossing writes that Washing-
ton collected into these glass-houses many rare plants, some
of which were presented by admirers, but most purchased
from the gardens of the horticulturist John Bartram, near
Philadelphia, famous in their time. Bartram was a Quaker
and a noted botanist. He died during the War of the Revo-
lutior, and his son William, who published in 1791 an account
of botanical explorations in the Southern States, succeeded
to the business, and was honored by being consulted by Gen-
eral Washington in the arrangement of his new greenhouses.
Some few tropical plants arrived at Mount Vernon on vessels
coming up from the West Indies. In this way Washington
got some large lemon trees, from whose cuttings he had es-
tablished quite a little grove in one end of the conservatories
at the time of his death.
with its shabby exterior and its beautiful hall and stairway. Its
bedrooms have all slanting roofs, and in one of these it is known
1 I'late 35, I'art \T.
The Staircase : Sunrise Tavern, Fredericksburg, Va.
tliat Washington often slept. When he came to Fredericksburg
to see his mother — instead of remaining under her roof — he
repaired at bedtime to the old .Sunrise Inn. S'. N. R.
MOUNT VERNON.
47
The ice-house which, after his retirement from the Presi-
dency, Washington built in the southeast corner of the east
lawn on the edge of a high bank above the river was, accord-
ing to Lossing, at that time a new thing in Virginia and rather
uncommon elsewhere.
A copy of the memorandum in Washington's hand giving
compass bearings and distances in feet and inches to various
buildings and landmarks about the grounds may be seen
in Lossing's " Home of Washington." It is recorded that
Mount Vernon was often crowded with visitors during the
period when these works were going forward. Lafayette
was there for a fortnight in August, 1784, and during his
visit the place was always crowded. Houdon came over from
France in 1785, arriving at Mount Vernon in October, to
make the preliminary studies for a statue of Washington
ordered by Virginia, which now stands in the rotunda of the
capitol at Richmond. The sculptor remained for two weeks,
during which he made a plaster mask of the face of Wash-
ington, and from that a clay model. A cast of this was sent
to Paris, but the clay model remains at Mount Vernon.
He also made measurements from the person of Washington
and studies for the military costume. Gouverneur Morris, in
Paris when he returned, gave Houdon opportunity to study
from his posing for the finished marble. Houdon's is our
best statue of the great American.
Washington gave sittings for a portrait to the English
artist Pine, in May, 1785. He makes a little fun on this point
in a letter to Francis Hopkinson. Pine also painted the two
grandchildren, "Nelly" and G. W. Parke Custis. These
portraits were solidly painted and remain fresh. The ne.xt
noted arrivals were a pack of staghounds, the gift of La-
fayette. Washington's kennels, which, being fond of hunt-
ing, he had kept up in the early days before the war, had
long been empty. The old favorites, " Vulcan, True Love,
Ringwood, Sweetlips, Singer and Forester, Music and Rock-
wood," were dead or invalided. These dogs from France
were big, fierce animals which were always kept confined.
In a few months he determined to forsake tiie chase for
evermore, and he broke up his kennels and gave away the
hounds, transferring his interest to a deer-park which he
made on the wooded slope toward the river.
About this time arrived the large chimney-piece in Carrara
and Sienna marbles, a very handsome and finely-sculptured
piece executed in Sienna for an English admirer of Washing-
ton's, Mr. Vaughan, and presented by him to Mount Vernon,
where it is set up in the great drawing-room.
In return Washington despatched to Vaughan's son in the
West Indies, for the hurricane sufferers, " a few barrels of
superfine fiour of my own manufacturing." There came also
a jack and two jennies from the Royal Stud at Madrid, and
Lafayette sent also a jack and jennies from Malta. Wash-
ington from these fine animals stocked his estate with some
large and valuable mules. One team of these, at the sale
of the General's effects, brought $800.
The enlargement of the house and arrangement of the
grounds were finished toward the end of tiie year 1785.
During the Presidency, and his residence in New York
and Philadelphia, Washington acquired much handsome
furniture, plate, etc., which subsequently came down to
Mount Vernon. He had out from England, while in New
York, the splendid coach described by Bishop Meade as
decorated with Washington's arms, and with small allegorical
pictures with cupidons in the panels. In New York he occu-
pied a house " on the west side of Broadway between Trinity
and Bowling Green," which had been used by the Minister
of France, some of whose furniture was bought for him.
He declined to be lodged at the public cost. At Phila-
delphia he followed the same course, and, after experiencing
some difficulty in securing a mansion suitable to his state as
Chief Executive, he agreed to pay $3,000 for the Morris
House, a high price in those days.
Washington was necessarily very little at Mount Vernon
during the two terms of the Presidency, and on his return to
private life on his estates he "found much deterioration to
buildings by absence and neglect of eight years."
He wished " to make and sell a little flour annually, to
repair houses (fast going to ruin), to build one for the se-
curity of my papers of a public nature, and to amuse myself
in agricultural and rural pursuits . . . employment for the
few years I have to remain on this terrestrial globe. If also
I could now and then meet the friends I esteem it would fill
the measure and add zest to my enjoyments; but, if ever this
happens it must be under my own vine and fig-tree, as I do
not think it probable I shall go twenty miles from them."
In this extract from a letter to Oliver Wolcott might be con-
densed the story of his remaining years.
Lawrence Lewis, son of Washington's sister Elizabeth,
came by invitation to reside at Mount Vernon in 1798, and
he married Nellie Custis there on Washington's birthday,
1799 ; the young couple continued to make Mount Vernon
their home until the completion of their new house of
" Woodlawn," some miles away.
General Washington was now in his sixty-eighth year. He
kept up his personal management of the estate, and rode
about his farms almost daily.
Custis thus described him in these occupations of his last
years : " An old gentleman riding alone in plain drab clothes,
a broad-brimmed white hat, a hickory switch in his hand and
carrying an umbrella with a long stafif which is attached to
his saddle-bow — that person is George Washington." He
adhered to the old routine of breakfast at seven in summer
and at eight in winter, dinner at three — with small beer or
cider and some glasses of Madeira — tea and toast at dusk,
and to bed at nine. The place was well managed and kept
productive. An estimate of the scale upon which Washing-
ton conducted the business of farming, and of the success of
his operations, may be had from the following facts, for which
the writer is mainly indebted to a pamphlet entitled : "Some
Old Historic Landmarks," y^ . H. Snowden, Philadelphia, 1894.
Besides the mansion house and outbuildings already de-
scribed, there were "overlooker's houses " and negro quarters
on each of the farms. In one place Washington speaks of a
new brick barn " equal perhaps to any in America." This
was on the Union Farm. On the Dogue Run Farm he built
his new circular, or rather sixteen-sided, barn of brick and
frame 60 feet in diameter. There was in this barn a thresh-
ing or treading-out floor in the second story which was a
gallery 10 feet wide, passing around outside the centre mows,
whose floor was of open slats, so that the grain fell through
to the floor below, while the straw remained. The oxen
used for treading out were taken up to this floor on an in-
clined plane. He also had made a device worked by horse-
power, by which the heads of the wheat-sheaves piled upon a
table were held against rapidly revolving arms to remove the
grain. He worked a grist-mill near the mouth of Dogue Run.
At one time he had 580 acres in grass, 400 in oats, 700 in
wheat, 700 in corn, and several hundred acres besides in
barley, buckwheat, potatoes, peas, beans, and turnips. There
were 140 horses on the estates, 112 cows, 226 working oxen,
heifers and steers, 500 sheep, and many hogs running at
large in the woodland pastures. About two hundred and
fifty negroes were employed upon the farms. A score of
48
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
ploughs was kept at work the year round when the conditions
would permit. As many as 150 swine were slaughtered for
household and " hands." The farms were under competent
overseers, who accounted regularly to the master in person.
In July of this year Washington executed his last will and
testament, a document full of the rare judgment, force and
precision, the justness and kindness which had distinguished
all the important acts of his life.
The house of Mount Vernon, with an estate of 4,000 acres
and the library of books and pamphlets, passed, on the death
of Mrs. Washington, to Bushrod Washington, his nephew.
In 1829, the ownership fell to Bushrod's nephew, John
Augustine, the son of Corbin Washington. From 1743 to
1859, Mount Vernon was held by a Washington. It was then
purchased by the Mount Vernon Ladies' Association, incor-
porated by Act of the Virginia Legislature of March 17, 1856.
Their title covers the mansion, the tomb, the gardens, the
grounds and the wharf, about two hundred acres of land,
with a capital stock of $500,000. Reversion to the State of
Virginia is provided for in case of the demise of the company.
The material for these notes, for the unfinished manner of
whose presentment some apology is due the reader, has bten
collected mainly from Lossing's " Home of Washington"
Irving's "Life" Rush's '^ Domestic Life" and from some odd
sources.
■isje^
POHICK CHURCH.
•^S^
The old frame building of Pohick Church was fallen into
so bad a state of disrepair in 1764 that it was determined to
rebuild. Washington's friend. Mason of Gunston, advocated
retaining the old site. Washington favored a new one, more
central, and carried his point by producing in vestry a map
of his own making, on which he had located the house of
each parishioner. He drew a ground-plan and elevation, in
India ink on proper drawing-paper, for the use of the archi-
tect. The drawing measures 10" x 15". The old church
suffered some demolition through being used as an occasional
cavalry barracks during our Civil War. The present vestry
is getting it gradually back into the original shape.
%Jf
WOODLAWN : THE HOME OF NELLIE CUSTIS LEWIS.
This house ' is from a very charming design of Dr. William
Thornton's. The buildings constitute a well-balanced group,
full of dignity and repose. The plan of the main house
forms a rectangle, with two wings attached by curtains, and
these wings are joined to flanking out-buildings by brick
walls pierced centrally by gateways.
There is a completeness about the group and a perfectly
harmonious, symmetrical and quiet treatment of its members
which one cannot fail to find most artistic. A nice sense of
proportion makes itself felt throughout, with a breadth and
spaciousness of effect most agreeable to the eye. The plan
is an unforced and obvious disposition of the spaces into
two rooms on either hand of a generous axial hallway. The
latter is slightly out of the centre, owing to a difference in
the width of rooms, 20 feet to left and 18 feet 6 inches to
right, but the entrance-doorways east and west are central
to the respective fagades, and the longer dimension of the
rooms, 23 feet, is the same in all. They are divided by
brick partitions of two bricks' thickness. Their doors to
hallway, not central to the wall, are 3 feet wide.
' Plates 22-26, Part \'I.
The stairway in the east end of the hall begins with a
straight run, which develops into an ellipse of French fashion.
There is a descent to cellar under.
The difference in the level of ground from west to east
gives occasion for the portico, with its four round columns
built up of bricks covered with stucco. These columns show
a slight entasis, and have stone plinths, and wood caps (from
the astragal up), the neck long, cushion and abacus de-
pressed. The entablature and superposed balustrade are in
wood and have the lightness and grace which that material
permits. The detail and ornamentation are simple but ef-
fective, especially in the west door and the round-arched
window over it, both with sculptured stone framing and
carved keystone, and caps at spring of arch. The fanlight
is pleasing and the membering of the door panels refined.
The brick is laid in Flemish bond. On the west side the
windows and door in the curtains are grouped under arches,
the ground recessed and covered with stucco, thus giving an
arcaded effect to the curtains. All square windows have flat
stone voussoirs with worked keystones. The panels set
under windows of second story are of stone, with a depressed
field on which is carved drapery-swag in low relief.
A low pediment, with raking cornice in wood, enclosing a
stone-framed oculus, cuts into the roof over the centre of
each fagade. Otherwise the roof is unbroken.
In the interior one notes good fireplaces '^ in each room, a
convenient arrangement of communicating doors, utilization
of corners by means of built-in cupboards, and a general
effect of roominess and comfort.
The kitchen, with its two great fireplaces, back to back,
its capacious brick oven and broad hearths, is on a scale
which bespeaks a bountiful good cheer. Pantry and scul-
lery find room in the curtain. These are on a level two
steps below that of the main house, to which there is
communication through two doors.
In the opposite wing are an office and a small bedroom,
each with fireplace and closet. From the adjoining curtain
the plan shows stairs to second story and to cellar, and a door
and steps to yard. The flanking out-buildings were, doubt-
less, used as smoke-house, on the one hand, and poultry and
fuel house on the other.
The approach was on the west. There was a circular
grass-plot, 99 feet in diameter, within a driveway of 18 feet
in width. Against the upper edge of the circle, just opposite
the door of house, was an ellipse, in box-bushes, enclosing a
space of about thirty-nine feet by forty-five feet, in which
was doubtless once the sun-dial. Roads in gentle curves led
along the house-front northward to the stables, and to south,
and trees were set at regular intervals along the border of
the drive and along the straight avenue of entrance. On the '
east side of the house, there remains no evidence that the
gardens, masked from the front by the walls above described,
were at any time treated with an attempt at landscape-archi-
tectural effects.
Dr. William Thornton, to whom is attributed the design
of this house, was an English gentleman of very unusual
attainments. He submitted, at the same time with the
French architect, Hallette, it will be remembered, a design
for the capitol at Washington. Dr. Thornton's plan was
followed to some extent, but, he not being a trained archi-
tect, Hallette was associated with him in the work from 1792
to 1794. In the design of " Woodlawn " he has given proof
of a highly-refined taste in domestic architecture.
The mistress of this mansion is best known to us from
■^Plates 25, 26, Part W.
WOODLA IVN.
49
Gilbert Stuart's painting of her at eighteen, which adorned
the dining-room in her brother's house, '•Arlington," for many
years. She was vivacious as well as lovely, accomplished,
well-read, and a witty talker. She and her brother, G. W.
Parke Custis, were brought up at Mount Vernon, and Eleanor
was ever a prime favorite with its master. Glimpses of the
bright and tender part she played in his later life are found
here and there in the Diaries. When suitors came, as in
time they must, and in force, he seems to have given them
all "a fair field and no favor," but he was not displeased
that his favorite nephew, Lawrence Lewis, was the lucky one.
Lawrence was the son of Washington's sister Betty, and,
doubtless, the relationship gave him a good place in the
running.
The wedding-day was Washington's birthday, — as it hap-
pened, his last, February 22, 1799. The mansion was festive
in flowers and evergreens. In the presence of the great
household assembled, and of kin and gentlefolk from round
about, the ceremony was held in the state drawing-room.
Of Custises and Lewises and Lees, of Corbins, Bushrods.
Dandridges, Blackburns, Masons, Calverts and Carrolls there
was full muster. Of good cheer there was no lack. And
later the minuet was danced and the gayety of the evening
found its height in jolly " Sir Roger de Coverly." On that
night Mount Vernon saw its high-tide of joyous life. Dark
days were coming upon it. Washington lay dead there ten
months after.
His will, made in July, 1799, and one of the most charac-
teristic documents he ever penned, left to the Lewises a
large tract of land from the Mount Vernon estate. The
clause is here quoted entire : — •
" Third. — And wherea.s it has always heen my intention
"since my expectation of liavinjj issue has ceased, to consider
'• the granilcliiklren of my wife in tlie same lijjht as I do niv own
" relations and to act a friendly part by them, more especially
" by tlie two wliom we liave reared from their earlie.st infancv,
"namely, 1-lleanor I'arke Custis and (ieorf^e Washinjjton Parke
"Custis; and whereas the former of these hath lately inter-
" married with Lawrence Lewis, a .son of my deceased sister
" Betty Lewis, by which union the inducement to provide for
"them botli lias been increased. — Wherefore I give and lie-
" queath to the said Lawrence Lewis and Eleanor I'arke Lewis,
" his wife, and their heirs, the residue of my Mount \'ernon
" estate, not already devised to my nejihew liushrod Washinj^ton,
"comprehended witliin the followinj; description. — viz — all the
" land north of the Koad leading from the ford of Uogue Run
"to the (ium Spring as described in the devise of tlie other
" part of the tract to lUishrod Wasliington until it comes to the
"stone and three red or .Spanish oaks on the know!. — thence
" with tlie rectangular line to the back line (between Mr. Ma.son
" and me) thence witli that line Westerly, along the new double
"ditch to Dogne Run. by the tumbling dam of my mill. —
"thence with the said Run to the ford aforementioned: — to
" which I add all tlie land I possess west of tlie said Dogue
" Run and IJogue Crk bonded. ICasterly & Southerly thereby —
"together with the Mill, Distillery and all other houses and
" improvements on the premises making together about two
" thousand acres be it more or le.ss."
The house of " Woodlawn," erected on this estate in the first
years of the century, stands upon an eminence three miles
inland from Mount Vernon, and commands a pleasing view
of the Potomac, Dogue Bay, and the valley. The hospitality
dispensed there during the occupancy of its first owners was
after the generous plan of Mount Vernon, lielvoir, and other
distinguished homes of the preceding generations. Lafayette,
who had taken Nellie Custis on his knee as a child, visited
her there in 1824. Her life at Woodlawn covered forty
years. Four children were born there.
Major Lawrence Lewis died at .Vrlington in 1839. His
wife followed him in 1852. She was buried from the room
where she was married, the great drawing-room of Mount
Vernon. Her only son, Lorenzo Lewis, lived for some years
at his place of Woodlawn. It was afterwards neglected and
has fallen into some disrepair. The present owners, the
Electric Railway Company, propose to restore and preserve it.
^^.o^^
GUNSTON HALL, VIRGINIA : THE HOME OF GEORGE MASON.
Col. George Mason, the great-grandfather of George
Mason of Gunston, the Revolutionary patriot, is said to have
commanded a troop of horse at the battle of Worcester
(1651), whence he escaped in disguise and was concealed by
peasants until able to embark for America, where he settled
on the Potomac River.
The family of Mason was of Stratford-on-Avon. Col.
Gerard Fowke, of the Fowkes of Brewood and Gunston,
came over with him. There was a hamlet called Gunston in
the Brewood Parish, and here was Gunston Hall. A George
Mason of the Virginia Company in 1620 was, perhaps, the
father of the cavalier. The latter brought out nineteen
persons with him. There is a grant to him of 950 acres, 50
acres for each one of those brought over at his expense.
The land lay in Westmoreland, which county extended north-
ward " to the falls of the great river Pawtomake, above the
Necostin's town;" that is, above the present Georgetown,
In 1664 Mason bought 650 acres of land in Westmoreland
of Colonel Peyton, and in 1669 got a patent to 500 acres
more of same tract. He was County-lieutenant of Stafford,
an office always conferred on the class of "gentlemen " or
large landholders. He commanded the militia, held a seat
in the Council, presided over the justices, etc. He figured
largely in the Colonial history, took part in Indian wars, had
a share in the events of Bacon's Rebellion, and was other-
wise a notable personage in the Virginia of his day.
His son, the second George Mason, was prominent in
Whig circles. He was Sheriff of Stafford. In 1694 he sold
" .Accokeek," " being the late mansion of Col. George Mason,
deceased," reserving the tomb of his father. He acquired
large tracts of land in the neighborhood of the present
Gunston. He was also County-lieutenant. His home seat
was Dogue's Island, where he owned about eight thousand
acres. He died a large property-holder in 17 16. He was
thrice married and the father of a large family.
George Mason, the third, the father of Mason of Gunston,
was also an important personage. He was with Governor
Spotswood in 17 16 on the famous e.xpedition of the
" Knights of the Golden Horseshoe " over the Blue Ridge
Mountains. He sat in the Assembly of 17 18, which had
some important questions at issue with the governor. He
was made County-lieutenant in 1719 and commissioned by
Governor Spotswood with references to his " loyalty and
courage." He added more land to the already large estates
of the family. He died in 1735.
George Mason of Gunston was born in 1725. He passed
the early years of his life at the country house in Virginia to
which his mother removed after her bereavement. His father
had been living at their plantation in Charles County,
Maryland, for some time before his birth.
George Washington was about seven years his junior.
They were neighbors and friends already as boys.
In 1746 George Mason came of age and went to live on
his place in Dogue's Neck. This seems to have been oppo-
site to Rock Creek, which flows between Washington and
Georgetown. He obtained about this time a patent from
Lord Baltimore to the island called Mason's or Analostan.
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
At twenty-three he was elected to the House of ]!ur-
gesses. At twenty-rtve he married Anne Eilbeek, aged
sixteen, a noted beauty of the region. Their portraits by
Hesselius are extant. Hesselius was a Swiss artist who ar-
rived in this country about 1750, and seems to liave remained
some years, painting many portraits of the gentry along both
banks of the Potomac. The name is given as signed on
the back of a portrait of Samuel Hanson of Creen Hill:
"Samuel Hanson, ,Ktat 46 J. Hesselius, pinx. 1765."
Gunston Hall was completed in 1758. It was named for
the old Staffordshire seat of his ancestors, the Fowkes.
Belvoir. the seat of William Fairfax, Lord Fairfax's agent,
was a near neighbor. Mason was always prominent in affairs
and associated with Washington and other notables, but does
not seein to have held the family office "f County-lieutenant.
He also made more purchases of land about Gunston. He
and \\'ashington appear in the Assembly of 1759- This
seems to have been his only acquaintance with political life
up to the period of the Revoluiion. lie seems to have pre-
left of them. Their names have a pleasant old-world sound.
'I'here was 'Marlboro" of the Mercers, and ''Jjoscobel" and
'• lielle Air" of the Fitzhuglis, and the homelier " Berry Hill "
and "Crow's Nest," "Richland" of the Brents, and "Chat-
ham," the seat of another F"itzhugh, "Ravensworth" of still
another, "Bushfield," the mansion of John Augustine Wash-
ington, and "Lee Hall," where lived Richard Lee, the uncle
of " Light Horse Harry."
" Nomini," the residence of Robert Carter, was below
Stratford, "Mount Airy" was the Tayloe seat, "Blandfield"
the Beverly place. One might set down many more of them.
Smyth, " an Englishman travelling in America at the close
of the Revolution " (" George Mason" Rowland.) describes the
Potomac as "the most noble, excellent and beautiful river I
ever saw," and says : "The situations and gentlemen's seats
on this river are beyond comparison or description beautiful."
The Chotank region enclosed about one hundred thousand
acres, settled by cavaliers in 1651. Lord Fairfax was later
the chief of these, (jeneration succeeded generation in these
iHAJ-i-i-LJ-UiMJ-Ua^ ruT-
l>IE. SEAT "F
iisri! .
Measviud ANc.Dfv\wN p.^ AD IMBB'^
ferred a private life. He was a scholarly inan and a profound
thinker. In 1749 he became a vestryman of Truro Parish,
Pohick Church, in Fairfax County. He was earlier associ-
ated with Aquia Church, thus described by Bishop Meade
in his " Old Churches and Families : " —
" The church had a noble exterior, being a two-story house,
of the figure of the cross. On its top was an observatory."
This church was still in good repair in 189 1 (" George
Mason" Kate Mason Rowland). The social environment of
the group of Potomac planters living at Mount Vernon,
Belvoir, Gunston Hall, Stratford, Chantilly, etc., was of the
most refined. More has been made, in latter-day books on
this period, of the elegancies of life which pertained to Colo-
nial times at the great historic places on the James, West-
over, Shirley, Brandon, and the Carter mansions, but the
region we are dealing with in this group was at least equally
favored in stately mansions, the .seats of gentlemen of family
and culture, a landed gentry in all that the name implies.
Many of these places are fallen to ruin, or stand empty and
unguarded from the decay which will soon destroy what is
houses on the James, Appomattox, Rappahanock and Poto-
mac Rivers. The life was that of an ancient aristocracy.
From an unfinished inanuscript of General John Mason's,
a son of Mason of Gunston, the author of the '■'Life of
George Mason" Kate Mason Rowland, gives an extract
describing (iunston Hall, from which some parts are copied
below : —
"Gunston Hall is situated on a height on the right bank of the
Potomac River within a short walk of the shores, and command-
ing a full view of it about five miles above the mouth of the Oc-
coquan. When I can first remember it, it was in a state of high
improvement and carefully kept. The south front looked to the
river ; from an elevated little portico on this front you descended
directlv into an extensive garden, touching the house on one side
and reduced from the natural irregularity of the hill-top to a per-
fect level platform, the southern extremity of which was bounded
hv a sjiacious walk running east and west, from which there was by
the natural and sudden declivity of the hill a rapid descent to the
plain considerably below it. On this plain adjoining the margin
of the hill, opposite to and in full view from the garden, was a deer-
])ark. studded with trees, kept well fenced and stocked with native
(leer domesticat.;d. On- the north front by which was the principal
approach [the exposures are actually about northwest by west
GUNSTON HALL, VLRGINLA.
SI
and southeast by east] was an extensive lawn kept closely past-
ured, through the midst of which led a spacious avenue, girded by
long double ranges of that liardy and stately cherrv tree, the com-
mon black-heart, raised from tlie stone and so the more fair and
uniform in their growth, commencing at about two hundred feet
from the house and extending thence for about twelve hundred
feet; the carriageway being in the centre and the footways on
either side, between tlie two roads, forming each double range of
trees and under their shade.
" But what was remarkable and most imposing in this avenue
was that the four rows of trees being to be so aligned as to coun-
teract that deception in our vision which, in looking down long
parallel lines, makes them seem to approach as thev recede : ad-
vantage was taken of the circumstance and another verv pleasant
delusion was effected. A common centre was established exactly
in the middle of the outer doorway of the mansion, on that front,
from which were made to diverge at a certain angle the four lines
on which these trees were planted, the plantation not commencing
but at a considerable distance therefrom (about two hundred feet
. . . ) and so carefully and accurately had they been planted, and
trained and dressed in accordance each with the others, as they
progressed in their growth, that from the point described as taken
for the common centre, and when
they had got to a great size, only
the first four trees were visible.
"More than once have I known
my father, under whose special
care this singular and beautiful
display of trees had been arranged
and preserved, and who set great
value on them, amuse his friends
by inviting some gendeman or
lady (who, visiting (iunston for the
fir.st time, may have happened to
arrive after night, or may have
come by the wa\- of the river and
entered by the otlier front, and so
not have seen the avenue) to the
north front to see the grounds, and
then bv placing them exactly in
the middle of the doorway and
asking, ' How many trees do you
see before you?' ■ Four," would
necessarily be the answer because
the fact was that those at the end
of the four rows next the house
completely, and especially when
in full leaf, concealed from that
view, body and top, all the others,
though more than fifty in each
row. Then came tlie request.
' He good enough to place your-
self now close to either side of the
doorwav, and then tell us how
many you see r
The answer
would now be with delight and
surprise, but as necessarily, ■ .\
great number, and to a vast ex-
tent, but how many it is impossible
to say ! ' And in truth to tlie eje
placed at only about two feet to
the right or left of the tirst position, there were presented, as if by
magic, four long and, apparently, clo.se walls of wood made up of
the bodies of the trees and. above, as many of rich foliage consti-
tuted by their boughs stretching, as seemed, to an immeasurable
distance." \o vestige remains of this remarkable avenue. The
manuscript continues: "To the west of the main building were,
first, the .school-house, and then at a little distance, masked by a
row of large English walnut trees, were the stabk-s. To the east
was a high-paled vard. adjoining the house, into which o])ened an
outer door from the private front, within or connected with which
yard were the kitchen, well, poultrv-house.s. and other domestic
arrangements; and beyond it on the same side were the corn-
house and granary, .servants' liouses (in those days called negro
quarters) hay-yard and cattle-pens, all of which were masked by
rows of large cherrv and mullierry trees. And adjoining the en-
closed grounds on which stood tlie mansion and all these ajipendages
on the eastern side was an extensive pasture for stock of all kinds
running down to the river, through which led the road to the Land-
ing, emphatically so-called, where all persons or things water
borne were landed or taken off. and where were ke])t the boats.
pettiangers and canoes, of which tliere were always several for
business, transportation, fishing and hunting, belonging to the es-
tablishment. Farther north and on the same side was an extensive
orchard of fine fruit trees of a varietv of kinds. Hevond this was
Drawing-room Window : Gunston Hall
a small and high-fenced pasture devoted to a single brood horse.
The occupant in my early days was named Vulcan, of the best
stock in the country. . . . The west side of the lawn or enclosed
grounds was skirted by a wood just far enough within which to
be out of sight was a little village called L-Og-Town, so-called
because most of the houses were built of hewn pine logs. Here
lived several families of the slaves serving about the mansion
house : among them were my father's body-servant James, a
mulatto man. and his family and those of several negro carpenters.
•• The heights on which the mansion house stood extended in an
east and west direction across an isthmus and were at the northern
extremity of the estate to which it belonged. This contained
something more than five thousand acres, and was called Dogue's
Neck (I believe after the tribe of Indians which had inhabited this
and the neighboring countrv). water-locked bv the Potomac on the
south, the Occoquan on the west, and Fohick Creek (a bold and
navigable branch of the Potomac) on the east, and again bv Holt's
Creek, a branch of the Occocjuan. that .stretches for some distance
across from that river in an easterly direction.
■• The isthmus on the northern boundary is narrow, and the
whole estate was kept conipletelv enclosed by a fence on that side
of about one mile in length, running from the head of Holt's to the
margin of Pohick Creek. This
fence was maintained with great
care and in good repair in my
fatlier's time, in order to secure to
his own stock the exclusive range
within it, and made of uncom-
mon height, to keep in the native
deer which had been preserved
there in abundance from the first
settlement of the country and in-
deed are yet there (1832) in con-
siderable numbers. The land
south of the heights, and compris-
ing more than nine-tenths of the
estate, was a uniform level ele-
vated some twentv feet above the
surface of the river, with the e.x-
ce])tion of one extensive marsh
and three or four water-courses,
which were accompanied bv some
ravines and undulations of minor
character, and about two-thirds of
it were yet clothed with the primi-
tive wood ; the whole of this level
tract was embraced in one view
from the mansion liouse.
" In different parts of this tract,
and detached from each other,
my father worked four planta-
tions with his own slaves, each
under an overseer, and containing
four or five hundred acres of
open land. The crops were prin-
cipallv Indian corn and tobacco:
the corn for the suijport of the
plantations and the home house,
and the tobacco for sale. There
was but little small grain made
in that part of the country in
those days. He had al.so another plantation worked in the same
manner, on an estate he had in Charles Countv, Marvland, on
the Potomac about twenty miles lower down, at a place called
Stump Neck.
••It was very much the practice with gentlemen of landed and
slave estates in the interior of \'irginia so to organize them as to
have considerable resources within themselves: to employ and
pay but few- tradesmen and to buy little or none of the coarse
staffs and materials used by them, and this |)ractice became
stronger and more general during the long period of the Revolu-
tionary War, whicli in great measure cut off the means of supply
from elsewhere. Thus my father had among his slaves, carpen-
ters, coopers, sawyers, blacksmiths, tanners, curriers, shoemakers,
spinners, weavers and knitters, and even a distiller. His woods
furnished timber and plank for the car|jenters and coopers, and
charcoal for the blacksmith ; his cattle, killed for his own con-
sumption and for sale, supplied skins for the tanners, curriers and
shoen'iakers. and his slieep gave wool and his tields produced
cotton and flax for the weavers and spinners, and his orchards
fruit for the distiller. His carpenters and sawyers built and kept
in repair all the dwelling-houses, barns, stables, ploughs, harrows,
gates, etc., on the plantations and the out-houses at the home
house. His coopers made the hogsheads the tobacco was prized
in and the tight casks to hold the cider and other liquors. The
52
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
tanners and curriers, with the proper vats, etc., tanned and dressed
the skins as well for upper as for lower leather to the full amount
of the consumption of the estate, and the shoemakers made them
into slioes for the negroes. A professed shoemaker was hired for
three or four months in the year to come and make up the .shoes
for the white part of the family. The blacksmiths did all the
ironwork required by the establishment, as making and repairing
ploughs, harrows, teeth-chains, bolts, etc.
'• The spinners, weavers and knitters made all the coarse cloths
and stockings used by the negroes, and some of finer texture worn
by the white family, nearly all worn by the children of it. The
distiller made every fall a good deal of apple, peach and persimmon
brandv. The art of distilling from grain was not then among us,
and but few public distilleries. All these operations were carried
on at the home house, and their results distributed as occasion
required to the differ-
ent plantations.
Moreover all the
beeves and hogs for
consumption or sale
were driven up and
slaughtered there at
the proper seasons,
and whatever was to be
preserved was salted
and packed away for
after distribution.
'• My father kept no
steward or clerk about
him. He kept his own
books and superin-
tended, with the assist-
ance of a trusty slave
or two, and occasion-
ally of some of his
sons, all the operations
at or about the home
house above described;
e.xcept that during the
Revolutionary War
and when it was neces-
sary to do a great deal
in that way to clothe
all his slaves, he had
in his service a white
man, a weaver of the
finer stuffs, to weave
himself and superin-
tend the black weav-
ers, and a white woman
to superintend the
negro spinning-women.
To carry on these op-
erations to the extent
required, it will be
seen that a consider-
able force was neces-
sary, besides the house
servants, wlio for such
a household, a large
family and entertaining
a great deal of com-
pany, must be numer-
ous — and such a
force was constantly
kept there, independ-
ently of any of the
plantations, and be-
sides occasional drafts from them of labor for particular occasions.
As I had during my youth constant intercourse with all these
people, I remember them all and their several employments, as if
it was yesterday. As it will convey a better idea of the state of
the family and the habits of the times, I will describe them all."
General Mason's manuscript "ends abruptly just at this
point," says the author of the "Life of George Mason," but
she adds in a note : —
"There are said to have been five hundred persons on the
estate, including the several quarters. And Colonel Mason
[Mason of Gunston bore this title] is reported to have
shipped from his own wharf at one time 23,000 bushels of
wheat." Another chronicler records "five large cargoes of
tobacco, packed in the old-fashioned hogsheads."
Rear Porch: Gunston Hall.
The chief of this little principality was, among his other
accomplishments, a finished sportsman. Dogue's Neck was
famous for its game, and afforded abundance of wild fowl,
with turkeys and deer for big game. The region had been
the favorite camping-ground of the neighboring Indians, who
had a village — " Assaomek " — -at a place about four miles
below Alexandria, now called Andalusia, where stone axes,
javelin and arrow heads have been excavated in great num-
bers. Capt. John Smith landed at this village in 1608.
Mason's neighbors of Belvoir and Mount Vernon were
often his guests at Gunston when the shooting was on.
Gunston Hall is about a half mile, as the crow flies, from
the river, on Gunston
Cove. Belvoir, the
Fairfax seat, was on
Fairfax point, north
across the cove.
Mount Vernon is on
another point about
five miles farther
up. Belvoir is de-
scribed as not unlike
Gunston Hall, and
life there was on the
same lines. The
house was burned
during the Revolu-
tion after Fairfax's
departure for Eng-
land. Springfield
and Bradley were
gentlemen's places
near Gunston.
A son of Colonel
Mason's was later
established at the
Occoquan estate of
Woodbridge, and he
built Hollin Hall, in
Fairfax County, not
far from Mount Ver-
non, for another son.
This was a very un-
pretentious wooden
house of one story
with taller wings.
The scale draw-
ings^ of Gunston
Hall will sufficiently
indicate the char-
acter of its construc-
tion, which is in re-
spect of design, of
material and of finish, superior to that of Mount Vernon.
It may well stand as a type of the Potomac plantation
" mansion houses " of the period.
Good cellars, with windows above ground, run under the
entire building, with wine-vaults, an oven, and recesses in
the solid brickwork which served for cold storage. " Heie
was stored the old Madeira, the favorite imported wine of
the early Virginian."
The exterior is dignified, although but one story in height,
with walls laid up in Flemish bond of large brick, probably
of native make, cut-stone quoins at the angles, high roof
pierced with dormers, and tall stone-capped chimneys. It
^ Page 50 and Plate 36, Part W.
GUXSrON HALL, VIRGLNIA.
S3
has in later years suffered the indignity of a coat of yellow
paint, and the fine lines of the roof are marred by what
the " Life of George Mason " aptly describes as " a sort of
villa tower . . . for viewing the landscape."
The old square porch, with its flight of free-stone steps, is
as it was, and otherwise the house has, on three sides, under-
gone little change. Against the north gable the present
proprietor — the house has long since passed out of the
possession of the family — has erected a large wooden addi-
tion, which contains the present kitchen, etc. The other
changes noticed are not chargeable to him, and the house is
fortunately now in careful hands. There was apparently
a pediment above the arch of the front door, which has
disappeared.
In the pointed arches of the "pretty pentagal porch," on
the garden side, one might be inclined to trace a survival of
late Gothic ideas, but that the " Lfe" refers to its "carved
red and white pillars and lattice-work," which would seem to
suggest that its present form is
a modification of later days, al-
though in truth it appears to be
quite as venerable as the rest of
the building.
"The porches on both sides
of the house are embowered in
fragrant rose bushes, so vener-
able from their size that they
look as though they might have
flourished here a hundred years
ago." These are gone, but
younger rose-trees bloom all
round about the house. The
lawns are well kept, and there
are some efforts at ornamental
gardening, among them some
cedars successfully clipped into
quaint shapes. The latter have
attracted the interest of a neigh-
boring small farmer, who has
been scouring the forests in
quest of the like, and cannot
comprehend why they grow only
in the Gunston woods. A long,
straight path, between two tall
rows of ancient box-hedge, leads
away to the "falls," — as they
were called, — terraces made where the level ground ceases
and the land slopes down to the river. At the foot of the
terrace a garden i^ geometrical figures has been laid out, so
that the whole has somewhat the effect of formal gardening.
"And one looks down here, from a considerable elevation,
on the beautiful river, on wood, and field, and pasture . . .
an altogether enchanting prospect."
The school-house and the old gray stone well-curb, under
roof, alone survive of the original out-buildings. The hall is
wide and high. The rooms also are high, spacious, and well-
proportioned. The principal carving is in the southeast
room, formerly the drawing room, on the authority of the
''Life." Here the doors, windows, cornice, panelling, and
alcoves by the chimney-breast, are richly carved, the work
having been done by convicts from England.'
It is said that a descendant of the artisan who spent so
much loving labor on the decoration of this room is living
somewhere in the neighborhood. It is a pity that tiie name
of the man is not remembered.
'John Esten Cooke in -Historic Homes of Virginia."
The great wide fireplaces of the olden time have been
altered in conformity with modern ideas of comfort, and the
superb mantelpiece that was once to be seen in the drawing-
room has long since disappeared. The alcoves, richly or-
namented with carving, and furnished with shelves, "held
old china, silver and bric-a-brac." " A space was left over .
the mantel, framed in the woodwork, to hold a mirror or a
picture. The drawing-room was formerly handsomely wain-
scoted in walnut and mahogany." The doors throughout are
said to be of mahogany, but they and most of the woodwork
are now painted white.
The dining-room, as it was presumably in Colonel Mason's
time, since it was so used by his descendants, opens into the
parlor or drawing-room, and is of the same size.
The wainscoting and cornices here are less elaborate, and
on each side of the mantel is a deep closet instead of an
alcove. The two corresponding rooms across tlie hall are
separated by a narrow passage and at the end of the latter
was the back staircase leading
up to the second floor and the
stairs leading down into the cel-
lars. Both of these stairways
have been closed up within
recent years. The passage
opened out on a little porch with
an arched doorway. Of the two
rooms on this side of the hall,
the one opposite the drawing-
room was occupied by Colonel
Mason and his wife, and was
called, in the old Virginia par-
lance, "the chamber."- The
other room was the nursery in
the days of Colonel Mason's
grandchildren, and in all proba-
bility it was used for the same
purpose by the earlier Gunston
household.
But if this were the arrange-
ment of the rooms, a glance at
the plan shows that it affords
no convenience of serving meals
in the dining-room. (General
Mason's manuscript also puts
the kitchen, well, etc., on the
side where was the narrow pas-
sage between the rooms, which latter would have allowed for
service into the dining-room placed where it now is, with the
drawing-room opposite across the hall.
Resuming the description of the "Life" we read: —
".Ascending; the wide staircase in the liall (handsomely finished
in nialiOi;any) lialf-way up, over the first landinj;, is a window in
the wall, correspondinjj to one over tlie front door. At the liead
of the stairs tliere are tliree arches supported on four pillars, one on
each side ai^ainst tlie wall and two in tlie centre. . . . The rooms
on the second floor open on eacli side of a hall which riuis at right
angles to the hall below, and terminates at each gable-end of the
house. These rooms are small and low-pitched, with dormer-
windows and wide, low window-seats. A steej) staircase leads ii])
from one of tliese rooms into tlie attics, where were kept, fifty
years ago. old disused spinning-wheels and siiinning-machines that
had doubtless seem good service in colonial days. A round
window at each end of the house lights this u])per region.
George Mason, as has been already said, continued patenting
" It seems likely, however, that tliis room was tlie guest-cluiiiibjr
at one time, as tradition avers that Washington. Jefferson. Richard
Henry Lee. and otliers of the eminent men of the time have slc|)t
in this room. In botli of these rooms are deep closets like those
in the dining-room. — •' Life of George Afason."
54
THE GJ-lOKGfAX PERIOD.
and purchasing new tracts of land until his estates were Colonel Mason. ... In the fall of l/yr, Washington records a
very larire. His course in this particular agreed with that of ^'f'' "^ '"^ to (;un.ston Hall. He set off on the 27th of October,
,.'.,, „, , ■ , TT- , c ,,, n -A I '-before sunrise with John Custis for Colo. Mason's."' After
his neighbor, Washington. His place of Woodbndge lay breakfast they went hunting in Mason's Neck, and killed two deer,
opposite the town of Colchester on the Occoquan. The They hunted again the next day, but killed nothini'; and on the
Woodbridge house is gone. Hollin Hall still stands four 29th they went to the vestry meeting at Tohick Chu''rch, VVashing-
•1 r (I J • ^i 1 1 u -1 " J T • ^ to" returning to Mount Vernon that evenini'. Thev were build-
miles from A e.xandria on the old "pike road. Le.\ington, ■,„ ,,,„ „ " , , ^ 1, i ■ , , "-"^'"ft-, ' "«-> ""c uuuu
V & ' ing the new church at Pohick about this time, and Washing-
whose house was lately burned, •■ is tlie only one of George ton and Mason mu.st have met frequendy at conferences of
the Building Committee.
Mason's Virginia estates
that remains in the
hands of any of his
descendants." ^
Many charming pic-
tures of ante-bellum life
at Gunston Hall may
be gathered from vari-
ous sources, among
them the private jour-
nals of Washington,
which contain many
records of his intimacy
with Mason. They
went together to hunts,
races and balls, to elec-
tions, court sessions
and vestry meetings.
Colonel Mason was
often at Mount Vernon,
and Washington at
Gunston. They spent
I'lie Siairca:
It is no part of our
task here to enter upon
a recital of the great
part George Mason
played in the grand
events of the Revolu-
tion, of the great share
he had in securing to
this country a republican
form of government.
That is the part of the
historian, and to every
student of our history
George Mason stands
in the front rank of
great Americans. To
Madison he was the
"ablest debater," to
Jefferson the " wisest
man of his generation."
In person he was a fine
days in the woods together, surveying the bounds of their man, above the medium height, a man of social parts, a o-enial
well-read, cultivated gentleman. Of this culture we have an
instance in the design and legend of the State Seal of Vii-
ginia, which were his work. These notes have sought merely
to outline the manner of man it was who built this old man-
sion house of "Gunston Hall," and of the lil'e he led there,
and to give some hint of the memories which hang about the
place. He died there in 1792, perhaps of his old enemy
the gout, which he had doubtless braved for many a year over
many a bottle of the famous old Madeira, and lies buried in
the family burial-place on his own land, after the old custom
of his day, his grave unmarked until of late years, and even
now unworthily. A. Burnley Bibu.
contiguous lands. They held together weighty councils on
the questions of the times.
There was a dancing-school in this j-ear, 1770, for the young
people of the neighborliood. and it met by turns at the different
country-places, or perhaps alternately at Mount \'ernon and (iuns-
ton Hall. Mr. Christian was the dancing-teacher, it would ap-
pear. Washington records on the 28th of April: "Patsy Custis
and Millv Posey went to Colo. Mason's to the Dancing School.''
Martha Custis, the lovely young daughter of Mrs. Washington,
was then about thirteen years old. One day in July Mr. Christian
and all his scholars came to the dancing at Mount \'ernon.
Earlv in 1771 we hear of the two friends. Washington and Mason,
meeting at Colchester, January 23, and going together to Dumfries
on some law business. At night Washington went to see the play
of '■ The Recruiting Officers," most probably in company witii
Some Homes of the Washington Family.
WHEN one thinks of a Washington home it is
of Mount Vernon, with its rolling lawn, broad
gardens and wide water. But many miles
from Mount Vernon, guarded by rugged hills,
amidst wild and romantic scenery, stand other Washington
mansions, not quite so lordly as the American Mecca, but
si)acious and comfortable. Lawrence \\'ashington, half-
brother to George Washington, bought large areas of land in
Frederick County, West Virginia; he always lived at Mount
Vernon, but held his Western p ssessions as an investment.
'^ Life of George Mason, Rowland.
His younger half-brothers, Samuel, John Augustine and
Charles, also bought land in the wild frontier, built houses,
and left them to their sons, whose descendants owned them
until a few years ago, when the pathetic fate of most Virgin-
ian manor-houses was theirs : they fell into stranger hands.
These Washington brothers were leading men in their day
and generation ; they entered boldly into frontier life, hunted
the fo.x and bigger game, joined other "good fellows" at
the old Cherry Tavern, where Washington the Great, Jeffer-
son, Madison and Lafayette had often slept before them.
The old deed may still be seen which deposes that " Major
SOME HOMES OF THE WASHINGTON FAMH.Y.
55
Lawrence Washington bought of one Samuel Walker loo
acres of land on the west side of ' Shunnundore ' River,
being a portion of the original grant to Tost Hite." Many
interesting facts about this locality may be gleaned from
tap the window-panes and caress the grim stone gable-ends.
The interior consists of vast halls and wide rooms ; there
is a lot of heavy wood panelling, carved balusters and ornate
doorways. The house was planned by George Washington,
and Lafayette presented the black-marble mantelpieces
which adorn some of the rooms.
■ FIRST ■ Floor Pla/hj ■
■SEtorro Tlxor Plan-
Claymont Court. [Full lines indicate original Work ]
George Washington's field-book, called, '■'■ A Journal of My
Journey over the Mountains, begun Friday, the Eleventh of
March, 1747-8."
Colonel Samuel Washington, the oldest of the West Vir-
ginian settlers, began his life there in a log-cabin, of course.
He was a rollicking sort of a fellow, surrounded by an army
of horses and dogs — fond of getting married, too, for from
his early manhood to his grave a succession of five good
women called him husband. Years added to his honor and
The room of all the rooms at Harewood is the big parlor
where the charming widow, Dolly Todd, plighted her troth
to the stout little book-worm, James Madison. It is a vast
room with heavy wainscoting and wide window-seats, and as
we stand within we fancy we see the lovely widow and her
grave second husband, who was richer in virtue and learning
than in inches. Dolly's sister married George Steptoe Wash-
ington, the son of Samuel Washington, when she was but
fifteen, and in consequence the Widow Todd and iier little
wm^.
■■■{ ^w"^^
Claymotit Court: Home of IJiislirod Washington.
his fortune, and he built " Harewood," one of the most boy lived at Harewood. Dolly vowed she never meant to
fascinating country houses in America. marry after the death of her first husband, the Quaker,
It is situated in a country full of picturesque beauty, and (olin Todd, but siie was so pretty and so young, and entirely
the house itself is a gem of eighteenth-century architecture, fascinating, even as a. child wiien her mother sewed a white
an imposing stone mansion, moss-grown now and darkened linen mask to her hair to keep off the sunburn, and crowned
by Time's finger-prints; the long branches of fine trees almost her with a long-eared calico bonnet beside; she was a good
56
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
wife to her first husband and tried to be silent and demure which was built in 1750, a quaint old mill, with its clumsy
througli her widowhood, but her youth and beauty asserted wheel and busy mill-race.
themselves and won the love of a President. When she first Charies Washington gave up the log-cabin as the town
met him she was dressed in a mulberry-colored satin, with a grew and erected a spacious mansion, as his brothers did.
tulle kerchief over her plump neck, and a cap upon her head, The house still stands, and while it is not so imposing as
H
:k.^
".:^j
Harewood, nor as
vast as Claymont
Court, it may easily
take its place as one
of the stately homes
of West Virginia.
Like many old Vir-
ginian houses, it has
many additions, use-
ful after-thoughts,
and the kitchen and
servants' houses join
the house through
walled passages.
Lewis William
Washington was the
son of George Corbin
Washington, who
was the son of Wil-
liam Augustine
Washington, who
was son of Augustine Washington and nephew of George
Washington.
George Corbin Washington married a Miss Beall and
called his home " Beall Air." This house is very antique,
built of stone with thick walls. Lewis Washington, the son
of George Corbin Washington, made additions and lived here
for many years. It was often under fire in the last war
clous wings, great halls and many windows ; the irregidar when first one army and then the other marched up and
building encloses two square courtyards and stretches out by down tlie beautiful Shenandoah Valley. The place was so
brick corridors to the old slave quarters. The interior is a exposed that the family was compelled to fly, and it was
picture of mellow beauty, panelled walls and carved wood- taken possession of by the United States Government under
work give it the air of ancient elegance, while the rooms and the Confiscation Act, but restored to its owner in 1866, very
halls shame the cut-up apartments of most modern houses, desolate and much injured. Col. Lewis Washington was
Mr. Wm. A. ISates, a New York architect, visited Claymont taken prisoner at midnight by a party of John Brown's men
Court not long ago and repaired the interior without marring and was released only when the raiders were imprisoned at
its original design. Harper's Ferry by the United States marines, under Major
Charles Washington went forth into the wilderness, too, Robert E. Lee and Lieutenant J. E. B. Stuart.
Beall Air is now owned by Col. G. W. Z. Black, and the
but the saucy, wan-
ton curls would creep
out. When she
went to town during
her widowhood an
older friend said to
her, " Dolly, thee
must hide thy face,
there are so many
staring at thee."
The place where
she stood is pointed
out with pride. It
was in the middle of
the best room in
beautiful Harewood;
on the wall used to
hang a portrait of
the fox-hunting, jolly
squire, Samuel
Washington, be-
ruffled and ruddy, with dog and gur, and beside him one of
his five wives, the favorite one, we suppose.
John Augustine Washington's home was in West Virginia,
too; whether the present grand mansion, "Claymont Court,"
stands on tlie site of his first log-cabin is not known ; it was,
however, owned by his son Bushrod, and is now a splendid
specimen of irregular architecture, with colonnades and spa-
Home of Charles Washington.
Harewood: Home of Richard Washington. Keiiniore: Home of Lewis Washington.
and built his cabin in the midst of a great forest. Gradually last Washington who owned it is a citizen of New York,
a settlement rose upon his possessions ; then a town, which These old houses stand amidst high hills and green valleys,
was named for him. But the Washingtons are scattered. Neither Mount Vernon,
Charlestown stands where Braddock's army marched, nor Kenmore, nor Harewood, nor Claymont Court is owned
Near by is a well of limpid water, which tradition says was by any relative of George Washington,
dug by one of liraddock's soldiers ; there is an old mill, too, Sally Nelson Robins.
Annapolis on the Severn.
VERY unlike any other town in the country is An- Like some cathedral towns, it has its one building of im-
napolis, and though it does not have the air of portance, in whose service and maintenance most of the
being a foreign city as has Quebec it has quite as inhabitants seem lo be employed, and because of such em-
much individuality and hardly le^s interest for ployment seem to have absorbed an air of exoteric respecta-
even the occasional observer. Like Portsmouth, N. H., it bility. The building here is not cathedral or church, but
*' Acton,'* the Home of the Murrays.
has the appearance of belonging to and being lived in by the quaint State-house, with its illuminated cupola above the
people of refinement, and it seems as if what little business dome, which serves as light-house for the infrequent coaster
is transacted there must be wholly restricted to meeting the beating up the Severn or the more numerous boats of the
daily wants of the inhabitants in the matter of provisions, oyster fleet as they seek the harbor for their crews' Sunday
including tobacco and, perhaps, the repairing of clothes. rest, .\bout this building not only the daily life of the
.17
58
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
citizens revolves, but about it, too, they are forced to make and replaced by lawns, terraced gardens and meadows run-
corporeal revolutions, since it crowns the liill on which the ning down to the wnter, each having the air of individuality
city is built, and from the encircling street that encloses it that still lingers about "Actor'," the home of the Murrays,
radiate downhill in jjractically every direction the short which lies just outside the town, and is as yet not included in
streets that run to the water's edge on what may be called the slow advance of real-estate improvements. A very snug
three sides, these radial streets being connected together in and closely bound little society it was that lived there, mar-
a somewliat irregular fashion by straigiit streets, which thus rying and intermarrying and keeping close count of who
in their turn surround the Slate-house with irregular polygons, was who, as the inhabitants do to this day, as the writer
The street-plan of the city is
not absolutel)' symmetrical, but
it is essentially the cobweb-plan,
and the roads would lead the
stranger to the ctntre of the
town by the shortest route even
if the State-house were not
visible from all parts. Not only
is the plan of the town sensible
and convenient, but no better
site for a town could have been
found, in view of the manners
and customs of the time, for
then not only was all merchan-
dise water-borne, but social in-
tercourse was possible only by
boat or vessel of some descrip-
tion. As the chief town ' of the
Tlie Chase House. [1770.]
knows, for chancing to ask a
question of a gentleman at the
hotel about the character of the
"places" on the "Eastern
Shore," he went off at score,
telling not only what they were
but who owned them now, hav-
ing acquired title by marrying
the daughter of one or the son
of another, and incidentally dis-
closing the fact that he himself
was related to most of the per-
sons he named. In those days
there was time to cultivate
otlier things than tobacco, and
the social graces received much
consideration, since between the
occasional arrivals of vessels
State implied the presence there of the resiliences of many from the old country the inhabitants had plenty of unoccu-
of the chief men of the State, and as each gentleman of pied lime, and being thrown on their own resources, learned
means and standing would desire to have a water-front of his to value the time that intervened between the periods of
own, the founders of the place perceived the great advan- spasmodic commercial activity, because it gave opportunity
tages afforded by the site now occupied by Annapolis, for for neighborly visitations of days' or weeks' duration, up and
not only was there here a hill which afforded a most sati.s- down the bay, on one shore or the other. Amongst other
factory site, but the peninsula upon which it stood was things the colonists learned to cultivate was patience, a virtue
surrounded on three sides by deep water, and it was easy to which must have been sorely tried when the original owners
see that here might be found water frontage so conveniently undertook to build these substantial brick houses, using for
arranged that each owner of an estate might have his private the walls the imported brick which was brought as ballast
landing-place or wharf, with his mansion within easy reach in the light-freighted vessels that came to load up with heavy
from it, and yet each man's home be brought within such rea- hogsheads of tobacco. It required six or seven years to
sonable distance of
his neighbors' homes
that he suffered none
of that feeling of re-
moteness and isola-
tion that must, now
and again, have
weighed on the
spirits of the dwellers
in some of the manor-
houses along the
courses of the Vir-
ginia rivers. \ very
snug and social little
neighborhood A n -
napolis must have
been found to be in
its earlier days, and
in those days An-
napolis rejoiced in and deserved the name of the " Social
Athens of America." ']"o-day as one looks about the town
it is easy to imagine some of the later buildings cleared away
Harwood House, Annapolis. [1770-80.]
build some of the
brick mansions on
the Virginia rivers,
and probably some
of these Annapolitan
houses took hardly
less time. Another
virtue that waxed
stalwart because of
this closeness of
companionship was
neighborly good-will
and common-sense,
and one instance of
it is this : Perhaps
the most notable two
houses in the little
city, holding the eye
as much by their en-
tire dissimilarity as by their intrinsic merit, are the two that
stand face to face on the corners of Maryland Avenue and
King George Street, the house of Judge Samuel Chase, still
' Mauvi.axd's FiKST Caimtai.. — Tlic t;hc.s;ii)eake and Point
Lookout Railroad has just acquired .St. Marv's Citv, the oi-it;inal
capital of Maryland, oji the St. .Mary's River, Soutliern Atarvland,"
and is to mark that fact by tlie erci tion of a suitable stone'. St.
Mary's City to-day is still n-nnitc; and rcDiiantic. and almost as
lonely as when first siylucd 1)\ l.r.miurl ( al\irt. It is forlv miles
from a telegraph-station, aiui is \i.sited onh three times a week
by the l)oals. Stones outline the site where once stood the old
frame court-house built by Calvert. .A Colonial mansion, now
used as a young ladies' seminary and post-office combined, a little
ICpiscopal church and its rectory, and an old gravevard, filled with
weather-beaten head stones dating liack to the seventeenth and
the beginning of the eighteenth centurv. comprise all that is left
of a once i)rosperous and happ_\- city. — Washington Post.
ANNAPOLIS ON THE SEVKRN.
59
known by his surname, and that of Mr. William Hammond, would not only build an additional story on his own house,
now known as the '• Harwood house" : the former somewhat but would bear the cost of building the wing pavilions which
imposing and much
more lofty than any
other in the city, but
rectangular and, be-
cause of its heignt,
not in good propor-
tion as a mass — in-
deed it is said that
the building was in-
tended to have
wings, but was sold
before it was finished
and the original
scheme of building
was not carried out.
The Harwood house,
designed by Mr.
Buckland, on the
other hand, has but
two rather low sto-
ries and its plan ex-
hibits the typical
Tlie Brice [Jennings] House. [1740.]
would be needed to
provide the rooms
sacrificed by keeping
the Hammond house
low. How far this
legend is borne out
by the arrangement
of the plan cannot
be told, as the latter
house is not now
easy of access, but it
is said that the foun-
dation walls are five
feet thick, which
would seem to be-
token preparation
for a greater height
of wall than was
actually placed on
them. This dwell-
ing, now known as
the Harwood house,
southern arrangement, a central building with lianking pa-
vilions connected to the main body of the house by one-story
galleries. The two houses are about as unlike as they well
could be, and their
unlikeness, in so far
as altitude is con-
cerned, is explained
by local legend thus-
wise : Both owners
were building at the
same time, but
whether it was Judge
Chase or Governor
Lloyd (to whom he
sold his unfinished
house) who made the
discovery, we do not
know, but it was one
day borne in upon
one of them that if
Mr. Hammond built
a high house, then
all the beautiful
water-view would be
lost to the occupants
of the Chase house,
and a prime motive
for selecting that
particular site would
have been proved
abortive. Mr. Ham-
mond, when the di-
lemma was pointed
out, saw and appre-
ciated it, but what
could he do? He
needed room . and
it was cheaper to
build up than to
build out; still he was willing to be obliging. Finally, the
owner of the house on the south side of the street agreed
that if the house on the north side should be kept low, he
riic St.ile-lious*;, .\nn.ii>olis. [1772-^5.]
was building from 1770 to 1780, work probably being de-
layed during the war, and its first occupant, in 1781, was not
Mr. Hammond, but Chief Justice Jeremiah Townley Chase
whose descendants
still occupy it.
Besides the Har-
wood house there
are several others in
the city that exhibit
the type- pi an of
central house with
wing pavilions.
"Acton" shows it
in incomplete form,
while the Kennedy
house and the Brice
house exhibit it in
very complete
shape; the latter
built about 1740
shows none of the
taste for French
fashions that appear
in the Chase house
and some others
that were built later.
The central feat-
ure of the city, the
State-house, be-
lieved to have been
built from designs
by Joseph Clarke,
said to have been a
pupil of Sir (Jhristo-
|)lier Wren's — a
statement which
may mean so Biuch
or so little, and in
this case makes one
feel that the pupil did not long have the benefit of his mas-
ter's influence — has more the air of being inspired from
Dutch than from English precedents, and is altogether
6o
THE GEO KG I AX J'liRJOJ).
unlike an}- other building of its time in this country. It is
the third capitol building that has stood on the same site, and
its foundation stone was laid March 28, 1772. The building
must have proceeded with unusual despatch, for we learn
that the copper roof was placed on the building in T773,
and grog to the value of ^10 los. This modest allowance of
drinkables betokens one of two things, either the population
of the town was small and tliose at the banquet were but few,
or we are altogether in the wrong nowadays in believing that
the men of that time were very free drinkers.^
McDowell Hall ["Bladen's Folly"], St. Jolin's College. [i744-'<4-]
only to be blown off two years later by a hurricane. Before
work was begun on the dome the war broke out, and it was
not until peace was concluded and the treaty between Great
Uritain and the late Colonies had been ratified in this very
building, in 1784, that the erection of ihe dome was taken in
hand. While the main building is of brick, the dome, which
has a diameter of 40 feet, and the lantern are of wood. The
crowning ornament of the lantern, an acorn, is 200 feet from
the ground, and as the hill on which the building stands
must be some eighty
feet above high-
water level the lan-
tern becomes an un-
usually good beacon
when lighted at
night. Besides the
ratification of the
treaty just men-
tioned, the senate-
chamber witnessed
one other historic
scene not long be-
fore, for here V\'ash-
ington, on December
23, 1783, surreiided
his commission as
Commander -in-chief
of tiie American
Army. On the day
before, at a public
reception, there was
provided for the sup-
per, besides music
and twelve packs of cards, ninety-eight bottles of wine and
two and one half gallons of spirits, with sugar, etc., to match,
while the populace outside were furnished with free punch
The Franklin House, State Circle
Tlie Peggy Stewart House.
Washington was no stranger to Annapolis even before he
there surrended his command and it is said that he was so
impressed with the great serviceableness of the street-plan
of the town that he later urged on Major I'Enfant that he
should embody the same scheme in his plans for the laying
out of the new capital city. If this story be true, and there is
no reason why it should not be, as Washington's training as
an engineer would make him a keen observer of topographical
incident and how to take advantage of it, less credit than is
now accorded to him
may really be due to
I'Enfant for the truly
admirable laying out
of the City of Wash-
ington. It is further
said that the street-
plan of Annapolis
was derived from one
devised by Sir Chris-
topher Wren for the
rebuilding of Lon-
don.
The other interest-
ing and striking-look-
ing building in the
town that obviously
belongs to the epoch,
McDowell's Hall, the
notable one amongst
the buildings of St.
John's College, is in
part older than the
State-house, for it
was begun in 1744 as a gubernatorial residence by Governor
Bladen, and was nearly finished when a quarrel arose between
the governor and the legislature and work on the building was
'As ti) the drink-habit, Bisliop Meade, in his " O/i^ Chunlies,
Mhu'slers and J-'ainilies nf Vin^ijiia" gives us a glimpse, when lie
says ■• Deacons and elders sold rum by wliolesale and other menihers
l>y retail. Nor did the cleroy lift up their voices in solemn warn-
ing as tliey slioukl have done, but very many freely used the in-
toxicating drauglit. That aged and venerable man, the Rev.
Leonard Woods, of Andover, states that at a particular period
previous to the temperance reformation he was able to count
nearly forty ministers of the gospel, none of whom resided at a
very .sjreat distance, who were either drunkards or so far addicted
to intemperate drinking tliat tlieir reputation and usefulness were
very greatly injured, if not utterly ruined."
COLOX/AL ARCHITECTL'RE IN WESTKRN MASSACHl' SETTS.
6i
stopped, and no more was done for forty years, when, after
the close of the war, the people began once more to think
of the educational needs of their young folk. Then it was, in
1784, that "Bladen's folly," as it was nicknamed, was taken
in hand and brought to its present state. The same Joseph
Clarke who designed the State-house prepared plans for the
enlargement of Governor Bladen's abandoned mansion : but
they were not carried out, and it seems likely that the present
building is really the original building, freshened up, to he
sure, and given more of a semi-public character than would
be quite appropriate in a dwelling-house even for the head
of the colony. The original designer of "Bladen's folly"
was a Scotch architect named Duff.
'I"he unlikeness of Annapolis to other places is due in part
to the almost entire absence of wooden or stone houses, and
as the city does not appear to have suffered from any general
conflagrations it seems rather curious that the buildings
should be so almost exclusively of brick when other mercan-
tile towns of the same age, whither one would have supposed
ballast cargoes of bricks could have as easily been borne,
were largely built of wood. Although the town seems not to
have been swept out of existence by fire in the days of its
combustibility, it once, at least, narrowly escaped that fate.
We find it recorded that in 1707 one Robert Clarke had
brought against him a bill of attainder, because, amongst
other of his evil doings, he had conspired to burn the town,
its records and other property, secure enough of the arms
and ammunition and, seizing enough shipping, set off with
his companions on a privateering expedition into southern
waters and the Spanish main. What fate actually befell
Clarke, who was a counterfeiter and outlaw, the imperfect
records do not show ; but his attempt is not surprising when
one remembers for how long a time the southern colonies
were made to serve as penal settlements, and how, in addi-
tion to political exiles banished on the failure of the many
uprisings in England in the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, there were sent to this country many shiploads of
sheer human refuse. Perhaps the timber to be found on the
shores of the Chesapeake in the early days was not suitable
for building and as the local stone is certainly scant and
poor, the settlers were forced early to turn their thoughts, if
they hoped to have reasonably permanent structures over
their heads, to procuring little by little from the mother
country the brick which they have known how to use with
such skill. Be this as it may, Annapolis is in many ways
unique and in all ways interesting. As a complete entity, it
only lacks a church-building " of the period," and this it had
until 1858, when St. Anne's Church, the second of the name,
was burned and had to be replaced by the present, and third,
rather uninteresting structure. The building of the second
structure, the one burned in 1858, was brought about by the
publication, in 1771. in the Maryland Gazette of a poetic
remonstrance addressed by the first church structure to the
people of the town, in which effort of the muse the humble
and decayed relic of an earlier time chides the people because
'• Here in .Annapolis alone
Crod has the meanest house in town,''
and reminds them that
" The State-house, that, for ijublic good.
With me coeval Ions; had stood :
With me full many a storm liad dared,
Is now at length to be repaired :
Or rather to be built anew
An honor to the land and you,"
and points out that the neglect of its public buildings is
rather typical of the town, for the church declares that,
" With grief, in yonder field hard-ljv,
A sister ruin I espy :
Old Bladen's palace, once so famed.
And now too well the ' folly ' named."
Although this rhyming rebuke brought about the immedi-
ate destruction of the first church building, the war and other
causes stood in the way of the execution of the scheme to
replace it and the second structure was not finished until
1792, eighteen years after work on it had begun. The
present structure, erected in 1859, is almost painfully out of
keeping with the architectural spirit of the town.
^^
Colonial Architecture in Western Massachusetts.
IN 1636 a small body of our Puritan ancestors, finding
the country in the immediate neighborhood of Boston
too thickly settled, the best building lots already oc-
cupied or appropriated, and perhaps, too, the political
and religious atmosphere a little trying, gathered together
themselves and such of their possessions as could be carried
upon pack-horses and set out for the western wilderness.
Beyond the straggling settlement of Watertown, then called
Newton, they plunged into an unknown country absolutely
wild and trackless, save for an occasional Indian trail. They
had learned by that time that there was little possibility of
stumbling upon the northwest passage or of settling on the
shore of the Pacific — though the charter of their colony
granted them the right to do so — but beyond these general
negative ideas, the tales of Indians, and the varying re-
ports of their own hunters, they were as ignorant of their
destination as the '' Babes in the Wood."
After a lime they reached the Connecticut Valley and there
they dwelt, scattered up and down the river between North-
ampton and Weathersfield, Conn., building up during the
remaining sixty years of the century a straggling line of towns
nearly one hundred miles in length. The growth of these
towns and villages was slow. The distance from their base
of supplies was great, severe winters and the failure of crops,
combined witii the constant inroads of the Indians, retarded
development and immigration. For many years there was
only a bridle-path to Boston, and all merchandise had to
make the long and perilous voyage around Cape Cod, through
the Sound and the equally long voyage up the Connecticut.
The first setdement in the Connecticut Valley in
62
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Massachusetts was made in Springfield in 1636 and having
the start in years and numbers the town grew rapidly and
soon distanced its neighbors, becoming at last the leading
commercial centre of the western part of the Stale. Around
it Longmeadow, Agawani, West Springfield, Hadley, West-
field, Southampton and North-
ampton, Hatfield, Deetfield and
towns still farther north were
slowly settled : some by immi-
grants from the eastern part of
the State, some by wise men from
Connecticut who had prophetic
instinct, and others by those
Springfield men who after a few
years found their native town be-
coming too crowded, and saw in
the tributary valleys and rich up-
land pastures of the parent river
E. IJlake House, !i76o.] Nathaniel Kl\ Tavern, [1667,]
the
promise of more
abundant reward for the same amount of labor.
Hardly had the first of these valley settlements been es-
tablished when the Indians, for the first two or three years
friendly, suddenly took arms against the settlers and the war
for mutual extermination began, an interminable struggle,
l)arbarous on both sides, and one which would have ex-
hausted the strength and patience of any people save our
forefathers. Says Holland in his '" History of Western Massa-
chusetts " : '■ From the first settlement at Springfield, until the
Conquest of Canada in 1760, a series of one hundred and
twenty-four years had passed away, and by far the larger
part of this time the inhabitants of the territory embraced in
old Hampshire had been exposed to the dangers, the fears,
the toils and trials of Indian wars or border depredations.
Children had been born, had grown up to manhood, and de-
scended to old age, knowing little or nothing of peace and
tranquillity. Hundreds had been killed, and large numbers
carried into captivity. Men, woinen and children had been
butchered by scores. There is hardly a square acre, certainly
not a square mile, in the Con-
necticut Valley, that has not
been tracked by the flying feet
of fear, resounded with the
groan of the dying, drunk the
blood of the dead, or served
as the scene of toils made
doubly toilsome by an appre-
hension of danger that never
slept." And still, through all
this, the towns grew slowly,
though not steadily. Spring-
field was practically laid in
ashes in 1675, Deerfield met
the same fate twice, and a half-
dozen of the other towns barely
escaped; but, always, the inhab-
itants— when there were any
left — went to work and built
again. How Florence in the
Piiastei Cap. Cniton House, r.ongmeadnw. fourteenth and fifteenth cen-
turies fighting Pope, Emperor,
Duke, Free Company, friend and foe, burning and tearing
down, visited by flood and famine, found time for the art and
architecture which she has given to the world, and above all
'The ordinary steepness of the early pitch roofs is shown hv
such structures as the older portions of the Fairbanks House at
Dedham. I'late I\', l-'art i. and the \arbonne House on Kssex
Street, Salem. — 1m ).
how she has preserved it, impresses every one who for the first
time reads her historv, and in this Connecticut Valley the
wonder is not that there is so little Colonial architecture,
but that there remains standing a single structure built
before the eighteenth century. Well, there are very few left.
Still, until the early part of the
present century there were a good
many, and it is the march of im-
provement rather than that of
violent destruction that has car-
ried them away.
There is little doubt that from
1665 to 1675 Nathaniel Ely of
Springfield kept a tavern in that
town : in fact, twice he was fined,
once twelve pounds for selling
four quarts of cider to Indians,
and again forty shillings for not keeping his beer up to
the standard strength ; and this tavern of his still stands,
hemmed-in by brick blocks, — perhaps not in its original
form, but, likely, very near it, for the earliest houses in this
region had undoubtedly steep gable roofs, as this has still.
The " Pyncheon Fort," built by the first John Pyncheon
in 1660, which stood until 1831, had the same steep gables,
if a wash drawing made by the Rev. W. B. O. Peabody,
one of the early Unitarian ministers of Springfield, is cor-
rect. In Hadley, in 1700, it was voted that the new meet-
ing-house have a "flattish" roof. As this was a thirty-
degree roof, it is reasonable to suppose that the majority of
roofs already built were steeper.' Then, too, the use of thatch
being common, a steep roof was a necessity and it would be
strange if the steep roof did not remain in fashion after
thatch was discarded. Isay the use of thatch was common,
for " thatchers," in common with " carpenters, joiners, brick-
layers and sawyers," received in 1700 three shillings per day,
according to Governor Hutchinson, and of Northfield it is
recorded that in 1702 "the planters built small huts and
covered them with
thatch." This
house of John Pyn-
cheon's, however,
was not thatched. It
had shingles of oak,
eighteen inches long
and one inch thick,
which cost twenty
shillings per thou-
sand. In 1667, by
the by, this same J.
Pyncheon sold pine
boards of good
quality at his Spring-
field saw-mill at four
shillings and six-
pence per hundred
feet.
Besides the Ely
Tavern in Spring-
field, I know of no
From Door, Samuel Colton House, Longmeadow.
seventeenth-century building in the Connecticut Valley which
bears any great resemblance to its original form.^ Early in
the eighteenth century, however, labor and materials had
2 While this may be true of the writer and, perhaps, of the Con-
necticut X'alley, there are still left in many New England towns
and villages a nuinber of houses and other Iiuildinafs erected in
the last half of the seventeenth century still unchanged. — Ed.
COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE IX WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS.
63
become plentiful enough to afford larger and more substantial
houses, and many of these, very slightly changed, if at all,
stand now. As a general rule, they are nearly all of the
same type, varying slightly on closer examination.
It is with this class and type of house that I suppose,
rightly or wrongly, the general interest in "colonial" archi-
tecture begins. That is, it is in this first decade of the eigh-
teenth century that certain houses began to display more or
less applied ornament, designed, most of it, from a varyingly
distinct recollection of
the latest style in Eng-
land (or perhaps Bos-
ton) interpreted in
wood by local geniuses
with what simple tools
they possessed. In
nearly all cases the
result was bad, but I
do not know that it is
less interesting on that
account. Take, for
instance, the entrance
of Samuel Colton's
house in Long-
meadow. The house
was built about 1740.
It is clear that the
builder, the carpenter
and architect, who
were undoubtedly the
same, designed and
executed as carefully
as might be the really
elaborate work about
the door: every mould-
ing has been worked
'The Village
Strekt. — The plan of
the early New England
village which has often
perplexed inquirers is
purely a thing of natural
growth. The necessi-
ties of mutual defence
and the needs of social
intercourse re(|uired
that the earliest houses
should he grouped
closely together, prol>
ably without any com-
mon or definite group-
ing. But, later, when
one early settlement was
connected with another
by a more or less well-
defined path or road, it
was only natural t'lat
smaller settlements
should grow up between
distant points and, natu-
rally, the new houses
again were built near together, hut this time upcm eitlier side uf the
established roadwav. 'I'lie planting of elm or maple trees along tlic
road, the wider .separation of the rows of liouses so as to include a
common or green l>etweeM them followed a,-, a natural development
and when the general scheme had reached this stage it was uatui al
that the church and town-hou.se should be placed u))on this green.
The charm of these single-streeted villages is too real to l)e lost,
but they are gradually passing away before the rising tide of popu-
lation and improvement. The chief destructive agent is the
trolley and in some places tliere is fierce opposition to the intro-
duction of electric-cars bv those who love tlie old state of things.
.Apropos of the protest that the summer residents of neerruld.
Mass., are, at this writing, making against the coming of an
by hand ; the frieze moulds, the flat dentils of the pediment
cornice barely raised above the panelling, the raised and
bevelled panels of the door, and the carefully-drawn radial-
lines between the door and the pilasters ; while the carved
capitals and the decorated rosette with its bunches of grapes
attached, the latter being in cast-iron, bespeak a man with a
feeling for the beautiful, his vision a little befogged, perhaps,
but his intention good. In these pilaster-caps did the de-
signer intend to represent as best he could Corinthian capi-
tals, of which, no
doubt, he had seen
pictu es? Surely, if he
did, he must have been
a direct descendant of
those Lombard-Byzan-
tine artists and sculpt-
ors of the eleventh
century who wrought
in North Italy six hun-
dred years before.
I have remarked
above that these
houses remaining to us
from the Colonial pe-
riod (I use the word
Colonial here in an his-
torical sense) are all of
the same type. The
same may be said of
the towns themselves.
All of the Colonial
Connecticut- V alley
towns, with the single
exception of North-
ampton, were laid out
on the same plan:'
orway of tlie Chiircliill linuse, NewiiiRtoii
1 apt. (.'harles
Parish. Wctlierstield, Conn.
Churchill.
Built abuul i;(A» by
electiic-car line, the
Spnn^Jic/d Rcpnhliiaii
says: "The opposition
in the old street is not
to the road, but to its
great and inevitable
detriment to the street.
That old village is a
great historic monument,
and it owes its preserva-
tion cjiietly to the people
who have come into it in
recent years because of
its associations, liistori-
cal and often ancestral,
or because of its fine
quiet and Old World air
of rest. A singular en-
deavor has been shown
t<i depreciate these peo-
ple as 'summer visi-
tors.' ]5ut not of one
tliese househoh's which
have made their home
on the street has anv-
aiivthing like wealth — more, there is not one whose members are
not engaged in work for their living. .Some of these find their
work in various cities, and live in them in the season of work;
some remain in Deerfield all the \car round, but work all the time.
This is the meanest attack on i)ul>lic-spirited residents and tax-
pavers of the town, who love the old street and want to preserve it
not onlv for themselves, but for the .State and the nation, as an
object-lesson of history." I^ossibly the protestants will win, more
probablv it will be the railway, and fine trees will lose their limbs,
wires and tlieir supporting parts will bring the old street nearer to
the fashions of the day, and, in large measure, the jjristine charm
of tpiiet and quaintne.ss. wliich those who know it relish so keenlv,
will have passed away forever. — Eu.
64
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
the single street, often over three hundred feet wide, with a houses on them is about one hundred and forty-three years,
'■common'' running through the centre on wliich llie church The house' built in Hadley, by Samuel Porter, in 1713, is
generally stood. On either side of the street stood the a good example of the better class of houses. The plan
houses, always with eaves to the street ; the lots on which was a simple one : two rooms on the first floor, with the chim-
they were placed were comparatively narrow, and behind the ney and entry between them, the chimney being the larger;
house, at right angles to the street, ran a straggling line of upstairs, four rooms. At the rear was a one-story addition,
barns and out-houses ^ — on one side of the street towards which long ago fell away, to be replaced by another,
the river, which, in general, was a short half-mile or less Why on the front the second story overhangs the first by
away, on the other to the swamp or the foot-hills of the four or five inches, I do not know. I can find no construc-
valley, where each family dwelling on the street had its tional reason for it. It certainly could not have served, as
pasture, its wood-land or its grass-land ; and to this day the did the greater overhang on earlier buildings, as a convenient
great majority of these towns are unchanged in their plans, vantage-point for shooting Indians, though the house was
many of the original '• home lots " being still owned by the built in the darkest period of the French and Indian wars,
direct descendants of those to whom they were granted in The clapboards are split and shaved, with their edges
the seventeenth century. In the little town of Deerfield, moulded. The front door is practically a double door made
there are twelve of these estates, and the average age of the up of the ordinary panel door backed by a batten door on
the inside, the whole being
three inches thick. De-
spite the scarcity of pine,
of which the records of
that time often complain,
all the interior partitions
are solid and panelled in
wood, and there is panelled
wainscot everywhere, the
width of the panels testify-
ing to the scant respect
paid to that provision in
the Colonial charter which
reserved all trees over
twenty-four inches in di-
ameter for the use of the
Royal Navy. The extent
of wood-panelling was
brought to my notice by
the present dweller in the
house by the eminently
practical observation that
the room took forty yards
of carpeting and only two
double-rolls of wall-paper.
All of this detail, panels.
mouldings, wainscot-caps,
stair-rails and balusters, is
of the simplest sort, rather heavy and perhaps clumsy, but began to be built the gambrel-roof houses, of which the old
evidently local work. It is a significant fact that in the year Josiah Dwight house,^ still standing in Springfield, is as good
that this house was built, the town-meeting, of which this an example, probably, as we have left to us. This was built
Samuel Porter was the moderator, voted to build its new about 1764 and outwardly is, in general, as it was one hun-
meeting-house, the one with the aforesaid "flattish" roof, dred and thirty years ago. There is a little more elaboration
and the committee voted to "buy glass, nails, and other of detail about the windows and doors and the cornice, but
necessaries, lay out work by getting clapboards, shingles, the doorway is very like that of the Porter house in Hadley,
etc., hire workmen, improving our own inhabitants as much like the Colton house in Longmeadow, and, in fact, like fifty
as may be, and levelling all the woik at money price." Is it other houses in the neighborhood. Here are the same
possible that the moderator may have found it convenient to wrought clapboards with their moulded edges, and the
build his house at the same time, and perhaps get a little same pineapple in the centre of the broken pediment above
better price on his own work ? Such things have been done the doorway, the same indication of a flat arch above the door-
in later days. opening, and almost exactly the same doors themselves. In-
There are a good many of these old houses very like the side, the house has been so completely torn to pieces and
Porter house — in fact, almost identical with it in plan and remodelled that only a few of the rooms retain their original
detail — scattered up and down the valley. As the years of shape, and instead of a score of representatives of one family,
the century increased, the size of the houses increased also, the representatives of scores of families, and possibly as many
and while the length of the house on the street was kept nationalities, now dwell there. Up to the close of the Revo-
about the same, the two rooms on the first floor were lutionary War this type of house, beginning with the narrower
increased to four, making the house much deeper. Then house, and gradually increasing in size with the change from
M'late 21, I 'art 1.
Front Do
.Stebbins House, Deerfield, Mass.
Joseph .StebbiriS, 1772.
I'.uilt bv
Rear Door: .Stebbins House, Deerfield, Mass. Built by
Joseph Steiibins, 1772.
I Platfs
22, Part I.
COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE IN WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS.
65
the simple gable-roof to thegambrel-roof, seems to have been
the prevailing plan all through this section of the country,
and examples of it might be multiplied almost indefinitely,
but it would amount to hardly more than a vain repetition.
People were then, probably, pretty much the same as they
are now : the recognized leader in a financial and social way
built himself a house, and his friends and his enemies fol-
lowed as closely as they could in his footsteps. Until the
War of the Revolution, there was little, if any, diversity of
opinion as to who these leaders were.
Of the distress occasioned by the War of the Revolution,
the inhabitants of Western Massachusetts bore their full
share, for though they were not exposed as were the dwellers
on the coast to Great Britain's navy, and their comparative
isolation and slight numbers secured them in a large degree
from the more important movements and designs of the
enemy, they made up a part of the frontier close to that de-
batable ground which witnessed the most bloody and bar-
barous conflicts in the struggle with the mother country, and
the Indian allies of the British
were a potent factor in their
dread, for the generation was
still living and active which had
seen and felt the horrors of In-
dian warfare. The very strong-
holds which had been the colo-
nists'defence, the trails and roads
which they had opened, became,
on the breaking out of the war,
their greatest danger, and an en-
emy could strike from the depths
of the forest about them more
terribly than from the wide ex-
panse of the Atlantic With the
tall of Burgoynecame some relief
from immediate peril ; but Ca-
nada still remained, a continual
menace until the war had closed.
So it was that there was but
little important building done
here during the Revolution —
at its close the country was
exhausted, and Western Massa-
chusetts bore its share of the
general exhaustion. But though many fortunes had been
lost, others had been gained: while the war crippled many
industries, it built up nearly as many others, and many of
these latter were exceedingly profitable ones, and the natural
result of this state of affairs showed itself in the latter part
of the eighteenth century in the building of many new houses,
larger and more elaborate than any that had gone before ;
houses, too, which stood out from the majority in sharper
lines of contrast to their neighbors, for until this opportuniiy
presented itself for the accumulation of wealth, the money in
these communities had been much more evenly divided.
Then, too, the war had moved the people about geographi-
cally as well as socially ; they had gone from the country to
the city, and come from the city to the country, and so it
was that new ideas and innovations were brought in.
liven before the Revolution, Boston and its vicinity had
apparently had an "Art awikening'' : the introduction to
the " Town and Country Builders' Assistant," published at a
"shop near Boston Stone," by J. Norman, architect, seems
to indicate a movement of this sort. He says in this " In-
troduction " to the volume of plates and texts, which he
frankly remarks are "made familiar to the meanest capac-
Staircase in Hail, Hullisler House, Greenfield, Mass
ity " : "The greateft pleafure that Builders and workmen of
all kinds have of late years taken in the Study of Architect-
ure, and the great Advantages that have accrued to thole for
whom they have been employed, by having their Works
executed in a much neater and more magnificent Manner
than was ever done in this Country before, has been the real
Motive that induced me to the Compiling of this Work for
their future Improvement.
" Befides as the fludy of Architecture is truly delightful in
all its Procefs, its practice is evidently of the greateft Impor-
tance to Artificers in general, and its Rules fo eafy as to be
acquired at leifure Times, when the Bufinefs of Day is over
by way of Diverfion ; Tis a Matter of very great furprife to
me how any Perfon dare prefume to difcourage others from
the Study thereof, and render them very often lefs fervice-
able to the Public than fo many Brutes. But to prevent this
Infection from diffufing its poifonous effiuvias any further,
and in confideration that amongft all forts of people there are
fome in whom nature has implanted that noble Faculty of
the Soul called REASON
WHEREBY WE JUDGE OF
THINGS, I have therefore, at
very great expenfe, compiled
this VVork for the common Good
of all Men of Reafon" etc.
This "awakening," the Revo-
lution, by its before-mentioned
shifting about, undoubtedly
spread, and one of its results in
this region was the publication
at Greenfield, in 1797, of the
" Country Builders' Assistant."
by Asher Benjamin. As nearly
all of the existing " Colonial "
work later than 1793 probably
owes what it has of artistic
merit either to this eminently
practical little volume, or to the
author — who was a carpenter
— it deserves more than a pass-
ing mention. The book con-
tains thirty copper-plates with a
" Printed Explanation to each,"
which, taken all together, give
a pretty thorough exposition of the construction and artistic
<letail of a house in those days. A half dozen of these plates
I have redrawn ; ' for, intended as they were for working
details, they are not without interest.
Plate I is mainly of door and window trim, which the
author states should be } or i|^ of the width of the door or
window. The frieze over the door or window should be \
wider than the trim and the cornice % or j? of the trim.
Plate II shows " Ionic and Corinthian Fronts . . . with all
their parts figured for practice which is plain to infpection."
Plate 14 "is a group of cornices, and t(j proportion them
to rooms or any other place required, divide the whole height
of the room in twenty-two, twenty-four, or twenty-fix parts, and
give one of thofe to the cornice. ... If ufed on the outfide
of buildings, divide the height into nineteen or twenty parts,
one of which will be the height of the cornice."
Plates 15 and 16 show pedestals and imposts, the proper
depth of the latter being y'g or ^j^ of the height from the
floor to the springing of the arch, while Plates 19 and 20
are cliimneypieces drawn to scale with their details "half
lize." Of the remaining plates in the book, eight are
' Plate 32. I'art \il.
66
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
ilevoted \o ilie explanation of the orders : there are one or the finish in each of the first-story rooms and nearly all of the
two plans and elevations of houses and a church, details of chambers is evidently carefully studied for each individual
staircases, doors, uiiidous, etc ; in fact, all that an intelli- room. The fore-runner of the veniilating grate is fore-
gent builder a centurx' .igo reallv needed. shadowed in the fireplaces of the two parlors where the
()f the earlier books prinletl about this lime, some earlier, stone facings are |3'-rf., rated to admit the hot air from
some later, — "Builders' Jeic'ch," " Geiitlctneii' s and Builders' the room that the rooms above may benefit thereby. The
Ktpositorics," ••Builders' Companions '' — I know of none house has passed through many vicissitudes, but is substan-
that approach as
closely the Co-
lonial spirit, as it
is embodied in
this region, as
Benjamin's iitile
book. His
plates are poorly
done, but here is
the translation
of the Classic
into the vernacu-
lar— Jones and
Wren adapted to
the necessities
of pastoral New
England.
Just about the
time that Benja-
ni i 11 published
this book, he
built for Mr.
S a m u e 1 Cole-
man, of Worces- "^a^
ter, tlie house in
Greenfield now
owned by Mr.
ilollister. It is
one of the best
examples of the
work of its time
in this part of
the State. Cole-
man failed be-
fore the house
was done (let us
hope that the
architect was not
one of the causes
of the failure),
and the house
was finished by
the creditors.
Their economy
is manifested in
the house by the
hanging of |"
doors in frames
that are rebated
for 1^" doors.
The building is nearly square with two large rootns on either
side of the central hall, which runs directly through the
house, having at the rear end a wide door, a counterpart of
the front door, which o]jened onto the lawn and garden at
the back eiul. The kitchens, pantries and serving-rooms
were all contained in an L at the rear, which was built at the
same time as the original house. The hall, with its coved
ceiling cut by semicircular arches which are carried bv deli-
cate Ionic pilasters, is a very satisfactory piece of work, and
tially now as the
sketch shows,
!g excepting that a
front porch has
been added
which is omitted
in the sketch,
and which de-
tracts as little as
possible from the
beauty of the
original. It
must have been
thoroughly well
built, for there
is hardly a settle-
ment or crack in
the whole build-
ing.
The house
built by Rufus
Colton at Aga-
wam in i 8 o 6
might have
been inspired by
this Hollister
house so far as
its front is con-
cerned, and it is
Lllvatpn a:'d details
or HALL IN THE !tlL15TER plainly an imita-
flOlijL GPaNflLLD. MA55
R- Vv'" COLLMAN 1757
tion of some
other house, .^s
the owner built
it on the strength
of a $5 lottery-
ticket which
drew him a prize
of $5,000, and
had spent a good
deal of his prize
before he began
to build, it is safe
to assume that
it is a much
cheaper house
than the forego-
ing. These two
houses are the
type in general
"" of the later Co-
lonial work in Western Massachusetts. There are some of
the large, square, gable and gambrel roofed houses, but
they are all like the ones built earlier, except that their front
entrances nearly all resemble the ones which I^enjamin shows
in his little book, instead of the heavy broken-top pediments
like that in the Colton house at Longmeadow. 'I'he flat-
hipped roof was evidently the fashionable roof in those days.
In 181 1 was built the Alexander house in Springfield, and
this house marks the beginning of the Greek revival, in this
Lllvatioh • or ■ sourn ■ 5idl or riALi.
COLONIAL ARCIIITECTCKK I.Y WESTI-RX MASSACHrSF.TTS.
67
part of the country at least. Here again, Asher Benjamin mucli of this later Colonial work has been thoroughly well
was the architect, and he seems to have spent some part of preserved and the houses illustrated stand much as they
his time since he built the f-
Greenfield house in the study
of Greek work. All the
curves in his mouldings about
the house, inside and out, are
Greek, and the acanthus
leaves in the composite capi-
tals have become sharp and
spiky; he has grown artifical,
too, for clapboards on the
outside no longer content him
for his fa9ade. It is now
smoothly covered with
matched boards ; his balusters
have disappeared and slender
straight sticks, geometrically
arranged, have taken their
were when they were built.
The additions which were
made to them forty or fifty
years ago have been taken
away, and there has been very
little cutting of new windows
and putting up of new par-
titions, with the attendant
barbarities of new doors and
window-trim, whicii so often
disfigure the houses of that
period.
Far be it from me to claim
for my forefathers who dwelt
ill these western iiills and val-
:: I leys greater zeal in religion
than possessed the souls of
lie Alexander House, Front Elevation, Springtleld, Mass. [iSii.]
place. The interior of the house shows these changes, too, their bre;iiren nearer the coast, but the proportion of white
for the trim throughout is like that which became common spires and belfries to pilastered mansions and ganibrel-roofed
houses is greater, I
dare maintain, in
Franklin and I lamp-
shire than in Essex
or Middlesex Coun-
ties, account for it as
you will. To pro-
vide a shelter for
himself and his
tamily was, of course,
from stern necessity^
the first duty of the
colonist. 15ut this
was but an incident ;
no sooner had he a
roof over his head
than he turned to his
real and abiding
work, that combined
civil and ecclesiasti-
cal structure — the
" mec tins-h ouse."
fifteen or twenty
years later — a flat
single member with
five beads and imita-
l i o n corner-blocks,
with a small rosette
in the centre, though
this trim, unlike later
work, is still mitred.
There are a half-
dozen houses still
scattered about
Springfield built from
five to fifteen years
later than this one,
and evidently more
or less copied from it,
which show that this
set the fashion, for
a time, for the rest
of the town. But
with this house ""= ^'"'"'" H""5<^. Agawam, Mass
possibly indeed with the type illustrated in the Greenfield
and Agawam houses, the Colonial architecture, .so far as it
has any individuality, ends. After
this time tlie misuse nf the ma-
terials of which the houses were
built became so apparent and so
great that the later wfirk is merely
interesting as a thing to be avoided.
'I'he earlier work is not alwavs
constructed on the best scientific
principles nor with a view to special
economy of materials and labor, as
the little sketch of an eighteenth-
century window-frame indicates,
but it is far more logical in many
ways and certainly better archi-
tecture than the later work — at
least so far as wooden construction
[ISC'..]
The HolJister House. Greenfield .
Impost and Capital in Second Went, and WOod WaS aluiOSt eX-
Storv Hall. • 1 • , , . , .
clusively used in this part of the
country. Of brick buildings erected before the early twen-
ties in this locality, there are almost none. Fortunatelv
Indeed, in some instances, the church proved the occasion
for the town rather tiian the town for Jie church.
This is not the place for a
discussion of Colonial his-
tory : suffice it to say, that
never, in modern times, has
the connection between
Church and .State been more
complete and intimate than
in the earlier Colonial days
of Western New England,
and that probably the ra:i()
/(■/■ capita of politics and
religion to the populalion
has never been equalled.
The colonists had. most of
them, left tiie old country
because they were unable
there to be as active as they
wished in these pursuits, and
tliey made tiie most of their opportunities when they iiatl the
chance. .So ihey built their nieeiing-house at the first possible
Kijiliteeinl
68
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
opp>ortunity, and not content, quarrelled on doctrinal points,
divided their parishes and built again; — hardly waited to
get comfortable homes in one town before they emigrated
to the more remote wilderness and built a fresh meeting-
house, or held town-meetings and voted to tear down the
existing structure and build a new and larger one more
befitting the needs and dignity of the town.
As a result of all this activity in the past, there are few
ecclesiastical structures
standing now of an
earlier date than the first
of the century, and it is
to the town and parish
records, which, in nearly
all cases, are one and the
same, that one must turn
for any trace of the oldest
meeting-houses.
According to the above
authority, the first church
at Northampton, the
I-irst Lhurcli, West Springfield. [1702.]
second, by-the-by, west of Lancaster, in Massachusetts, was
i8'x26', built of squared logs, with a thatched roof, 9 feet
high from the lower part of the sill to the upper part of the
•'rasens," and the builders were to be paid £i\ in work or
corn for its completion.
The first church at West Springfield, built in 1702 and
lorn down in 1820,
is a cut of it in
Hon " which I have
Hatfield, was the
was a very preten-
height being 92 feet,
mounted by a large
the date of its erec-
copper weather-
church at Hatfield,
was 40 feet square. There
" Barker's Historical Collec-
re-drawn John AUys, of
architect, and, for its day, it
tious church, its extreme
and its topmost point sur-
sheet iron weather-vane, with
tion cut in it, over which a
cock swung. The first
built in 1668, was 30 feet
square. The
reason for
building this
last church
— because
the dwellers
across the
Connecticut
found that
the worry of
leaving their
homes on that
side unpro-
tected on
Sunday dis-
tracted their
a 1 1 e n t i o n
from the ser-
vices— throws
a grim and
I-irsl Church, Farmingtoii, Conn. [1750.] . . .,
Sign ifican t
light on the times. The first church at Deerfield was " of the
bigness of Hatfield House," and the first church at Spring
field was a square one. These earlier churches were almost
always built in the centre of the long, wide street, and were
entered from at least three sides and sometimes four.
From the ground dimensions given above, it is probable
that nearly all had, like the West Springfield church, steep
hipped roofs, and the records in many instances state that
these roofs were " thatched," but with what material is not
quite clear.
In the next generation of churches, the square form dis-
appeared and, as a natural consequence, the gable roof re-
p laced the hip.
The church was
moved, in many
cases, from the
centre of the street
into line with the
dwellings on one
side, and then the
tower at the front
appeared. Of this
type of church, I
know none better
than the one still
standing at Farm-
ington, Conn., so
near the Massa-
chusetts line that it
may be included
here. The general
plan of the church
Ashfield. [i8n.]
is still nearly square, the pulpit being on the long side of the
church and the galleries continuing about three sides. There
are three entrances, one in the tower, one at the opposite
end and one on the side opposite the pulpit. The body of
this church is absolutely plain save for the entrances, which
have "fronts" like the older houses throughout the region.
The tower is very simple too, but as it rises from among the
*^
The slender
which rise
firmly tied to
wind and
the whole
These same
body of the
braced and
together,
surrounding elms it is very beautiful
spire is carried by the eight columns
from the belfry deck, and has been so
them that 150 years of New England
storm have only succeeded in moving
tower four inches out of plumb,
slender posts run down into the main
tower for at least twenty-five feet,
mortised, and pinned and strapped
while the tower itself is
anchored to the main
body of the church by
oak beams, 14 inches
square, which run com-
pletely through the
tower and nearly half
way through the
churcn. Investigation
of the construction of
the spire itself is an
object-lesson in the
thoroughness and care
with which some, at
least, of our forefathers
did their work. Every
stick of timber is
marked at either end ^""'' ''''""''=''■ '^^"' Sprfngfidd. [.so..]
and the corresponding mark appears on the stick which joins
it. Even the edges of the nail-holes in the wroughtiron
straps and the heads of the clumsy hand-wrought nails are
marked, so that the right nail should be without mishap
driven into the right hole.
But this church is exceptionally well built, even the ridge-
pole has only a sag of i^ inches in the whole length of the
church. Nearly one-half of the shingles and nearly all
COLONIAL ARCHITI-CrrRE IX WESTERX MASSACHCSiriTS.
69
the clapboards now on the church were put there when the have been a copy of the church in Northboro' which Ames
church was built, and the successive generations of white built there. He committed suicide before the church was
paint in some places have made a covering nearly J of an inch completed, rumor says, because he feared he was going to
thick. The frame is. of course,
of oak. The central pole of
the spire is a single white-pine
stick and all the timber is hewn.
'I'he church was built about
1750, and is similar to the one
at Weatiiersfield, Conn.
Although, chronologically
speaking, the present church at
West Springfield can hardly be
classed with the one at Farm-
ington, it is not far removed
from it in its general character ;
but the form has undergone
some slight changes in that it
is longer and narrower, and
that the three entrances are all
at the front. There is very
little of interest in the main
body of this church and the
spire here is very like the one
at Farmington — a little more
elaborate in its design ; similar,
but hardly so good in its propor-
tions. The bell in the tower
was re-cast from the one that
was in the old building. The
church was built in 1802, and
up to that year the parish h.ul
used uninterruptedly the first
^F
From ■' I'irwn and Country llntitUr/ A ^si.yl,tni.'^ \\y A. lieiijainin, 1797.
lose money on the contract.
The church stood, originally,
at the top of a very long and
steep hill, nearly half a mile
from its present location, and
was moved bodily, spire and all,
to the main street of the village.
Here there is a change from
the earlier type noticeable in the
spire, the tall and slender form
having given place to the
double-curved turret. The
former shape seems to have
been abandoned after 1800,
and the more elaborate Re-
naissance tower takes its place.
I have re-drawn another plate
from Benjamin's book which
seems to have some bearing on
this Ash field church. The
church which he illustrates sug-
gests the one in Ashfield, both
as to the design of the body
of the church and the spire, so
that it is possible that local
authorities may be mistaken in
assigning the design of the
church to the Northboro' one.
just about this time there was
the same break in the Colonial
church mentioned above, a period of :oo years, and the work in this region in respect to the churches that occurs in
present one bids fair to complete its own century of life. domestic work, that is, the transition from the good work to
I8II
'filing
C3
I?"
I irst Cliurtli, N'nnliamplon, .Mass. [i*<i^'.]
In the little town of Ashfield, in 18 12, was built the church
which now does service as a tciwn-hall. It was built by John
Ames, of the neighboring town of Bucklaml, and is said to
rilst CliiiiTh, S|.rin,cfiel(i. M.i.k-;. [iXi^.]
the work which, while it is not distinctly bad, is not so good.
The three churches already mentioned make a reasonable
use of the materials of which they are built. The wood
THi: CF.OKCIAX PIIRIOD.
mouldings, casings, archiiraves and pilasters are none of
tiieni wide enoiigli to be unsubstantial, and are generally
constructed with some appreciation of the titness
of things, but from this time on. more attention was
paid to " correctness of style," I suppose, tlian to
the legitimate use ol materials.
The First Church of Northampton, begun in i8i
and linisiied in 1812, illustrates this very strikingly.
It was designed and built by Captain Isaac Damon.
a young man of twenty-eight, and was his first inde-
pendent work. He had studied architecture with
Ithiel Towne. of New York, and came to Norik-
ampton from that ci y to make ilie plans and direc
the work. This church was un-
doubtedly the most elaborate of any
which had been built in \\'estern
Massachusetts, and I know of none
anywhere in the S ate which sur-
passed it. It was a large church,
holding 2,000 people, and was in
thoroughly good repair in 1878,
when it was burned. The church
which it rt placel, from the descrip-
tion which remains, must have been
similar to that at Farmington, and i.ei.dv. [iSi.i.i
on the completion of the new build-
ing, the following advertisement was published concerning
the old church : —
A iiAi!r;Ai\.
The subscribers, being a Committt'c- duly authorized for that
purpose, offer for sale the
MEETIXf; HOUSE
now occupied .as a place of Public Worship in Northampton. The
In various parts of the Country. Meeting Houses have been taken
down and removed a considerable distance, and thereby an im-
mense expense been saved to the purchasers. A gentleman well ac-
quainted with this busine.ss. wlio is furnished with all the
machinery necessary for this purpose, is now employed
on the New Meeting House in this town, and may he
conyersed with, and, if necessary, may be engaged to
accomplish the object. It will be ready for delivery as
soon as the new Meetuig House is completed, which will
probably be by the first of November next. For terms,
whicli will be found very eas\- and advantageous, apply
to JosKi'H Cook,
AisxicK Hint,
OUVER POMKROV,
Committee.
NoRTHAMi'Tox, January 8, 1812.
But no society seemed to care for
a church at that time, so that event-
ually the old church was destroyed.
In 1818, the First Parish in Spring-
field appointed a building-committee
to procure plans for a church having
" a decent plain front," and appro-
priated $15,000, tojiether with what
f^LL the old church would bring, for the
' I 1 building thereof. This appointment
resulted in the engagement of Cap-
tain Damon to build the meeting-
house still standing on Court Square
in Springfield, a building, perhaps, less interesting as well as
smaller than its Northampton neighbor, but with an exceed-
ingly good tower. The church is still used by the First
Parish of Springfield, and it is fortunate that no attempts
have been made to improve it externally during the last
seventy years, except for an occasional coat of paint and a
re-gilding of the mammoth rooster at the top.
In Lenox, in 1814, a new meeting-house was built of the
C'lijrt-liniise, [.enox, Mass. [iSi^.]
frame is perfectly sound and tinn. and many of the materials of
which it is composed are as good as new. Any Town or Religious
Society in the vicinity that may be in want of a good and com-
modious House of Worship, will find it much for their interest to
call and examine this building. Its dimen.sioiis are 7o'x48'.
First Cliurch, Ware, Mass, [i
same general type as these later buildings, the main difference
being in the arrangement of minor details and belfry, and in
the same town, in 1813, the County Court-house was built.
This is one of the very few brick buildings having any
COLONIAL ARCLHTECTURE IN WESTEJiN MASSACHUSETTS.
pretension to archiieciural design left to us. This, again, architectural " freaks " one hundred years ago as there are to-
was designed and built by Capt. Isaac Damon, who spent a day ; but these have no connection with the general develop-
year in Lenox on the work. Among other very interesting ment and it is only wiih that that I have attempted to deal.
papers which are now in the possession of Mrs. Smith, ^ The bits of history which appear from time to time
of Northampton, Captain Damon's daugiiter, is a draw- o-n^ in cotmection with the building of meeting-house or
ing of this Lenox Court house, which in its comparison o school-house often have a more than local interest,
with the building as it stands today, is interesting. A The following old contract for the meeting-house in
Evidently, this was a preliminary sketch, for there were
several changes made in the details of the building.
The cupola is elaborated, the balustrade upon the roof
is changed, and there are several other points of differ-
ence. The filling in of one of the windows and the
changing of the first-story window to a door were not
contemplated on the original plan, but are later work.
Capt. Isaac Damon appears to have been the
leading architect of Western Massachusetts from
1812 to 1840, his influence on public and ecclesi-
astical work being even greater than Benjamin's on
domestic. He designed and built at least thirteen
churches in this region and nearly all the town-halls
and court-houses; his specialty, however, was
bridges, and there are several of his drawings sti
preserved — rendered in a manner that indicates a
most thorough training in draughtsmanship — of
the old-fashioned bow-string truss wooden bridges.
And of the bridges themselves
there are still more left : nearly all
those over the Connecticut from
Charlestowi), N. H., to Connecti-
cut, a half dozen across the
Penobscot, others over the Hud-
son, the Mohawk and the Ohio
— in all. a quarter of a hundred
were built by him, and a large
number of them are still in use.
This elevation of a church is
re-drawn from one of his original
drawings : where this particular
church was built — if, in fact it
was built at all — I do not know.
It resembles closely any one of a
half dozen churches erected in
Charlemont. dated 1762. shows that contractors, even
in those days, were apt to be dilatory in the comple-
tion of their work.
"Know all men by these presents, that I Thomas
Dick of Pelham in the County of Hampshire, Inn-
holder, for and in consideration of . . . do by these
presents covenant and agree to set up a frame in said
town in the place where the old frame now stands it
being 35' x 30' and 18' posts. To cover the outside
with chamfered boards and the roof with boards
and shingles and to put up weather boards. To lay
the lower floor with boards and sleepers or joist
well supported and to complete the same workman-
like by the last day of September next. Otherwise
on failure thereof to pay said Treasurer 2G1L for use
of said proprietors.
Signed, Thomas Dick.
N. B. The proprietors to find boards, nails,
shingles and rum for the raising." — June. 1762.
All through the old records and town histories
these contracts occur, and how-
ever slight and brief the specifi-
cation may be, the appropriation
of gallons of rum or cider
for the "raising" is ubiquitous.
That and the location of the
church seemed to engross the
minds of the worthy inhabitants,
the former item having appar-
ently unanimous approval, the
latter being a most grievous
matter of strife and contention.
The towns of Granby and
South Hadley "split" on this
account. In the little town of
Cummington four or five meeting-
houses were built in as many
Hampshire and Hampden Counties between 1820 and 1840. parts of the town, to be abandoned, one after another, and
The Congregational church at Ware, though a little later, in Southampton the town quarrelled for six years after
is strikingly like the preceding churches in general design voting to build, before the site was decided upon. Hut these
and is a very late example of this "transitional " style, for matters only pertain to the architectural so far as they illus-
most of the churches built as late as this (1826) were much trate the thoroughness with wliich our forefathers grasped
more like the annexed elevation of Captain Damon's work, the subject in which they were interested, and the careful
manner in which theystudied and consid-
ered the main points of detail ; and these
characteristics they embodied in the
buildings which they erected, buildings
ill which the construction and material
must ill many cases have been experi-
mental, but which stand to-day monu-
ments to the soundness of their judg-
ment. Gkorge Clarence Gardner.
\ Design by Isaac Damon.
The churches which have been
mentioned above, like the houses on
earlier pages, I have chosen as being
tyjjes which illustrate the changing
phases of our Colonial work. There
are otlur houses and buildings which
have more historic interest, others that
are conspicuous through some strongly-
marked peculiarities, for there were
i;:,c IN MEMuKY oFi;-;
Ifi' »] Mrs MdrjVard tfic.ViiiaUc \'l
" an<| vii-tuovisWifcotMrWiHl^,^
lorn Wcpcl who ^ "■ - '
iHc 19
7
The " Xoox Hoi'se." — We do not
know where in New Knuland there .>till
stands in its ori^^inal form that precursor
of the parish-parlor of today, the " .Noon
House." The early meetiii;;-liou.scs were
ill-heated in winter or not heated at all, and thuugli the wor
shippers, doubtless, provided themselves with heated stones and
foot-stoves, these primitive heaters could not last through even
a protracted morning session, much less that of the afternoon,
also. Therefore as a mere matter of self-preservation there
l/^ldiH mill (''' was liuilt near tliu iiiecting-housc a smaller
structure, called the "Noon House," fur-
nished witli an ample fireplace. Ileretlie
congregation assembled, between morning
and afternoon services, thawed out their
chilled bodies, replenished their foot-stoves and relieatod tlio more
primitive stone or brick, ate their midday lunclies and, while the
ilders presumably go.ssiped in a seemly and subdued way, the
\iiuths and maidens as certainly took tlie op])orunity to tiirt with
<liu' discreetness. — \i]>.
The Hotel Cluny of a New England Village.
^^?^>®<=A:^^
THE extraordinary production and huge circulation of
the historical novel is but one of the consequences
of tlie remarkable growth of the " patriotic so-
cieties " in this country in the past few years —
societies like those of the Sons and llie Daughters of the
Revolution, the Colonial Dames, and the like. One of
the most admirable results of the movement is the wide-
spread interest in the establisiiment of local historical
societies, particularly in the old towns of New England.
These historical societies have a very interesting and even
fascinating work before them : the collection and preserva-
tion of all manner of local records, the looking-up of spots of
historical interest, the preservation of interesting old build-
ings, and the marking of historic sites with commemorative
tablets, besides the study and discussion of both local and
general history. In the average New England town the soil
proves gralifyingly fertile in these fields and the delving
therein bears rich fruit in the development of interest in and
love for the community, the heightening of civic feeling, the
encourageinent of local improvements, and a care for the
future of the town as well as an interest in the town's past.
In not a few places the local historical society has done a
most excellent thing by taking some fine or quaint old house
for its headquarters, fitting it up after old fashions, and
adorning it with attractive historical collections. Such a
collection on a large scale is that of the Bostonian Society.
'Plates 46-47, Part II.
'Figure 2, page 2. Vol. I.
* .Although we have no illustration of the (larrison House at
Medford, the title recalls the fact that a structure locally known
in' the same name at Newburyport. Mass.. and like the Medford
riic r.arrisoii House, Newbun'pon, Mass.
building presumably deriving its name from the fact of its one-
time use as stronghold or block-house for the litde settlement
was described in a foot-note on page r. Volume I. and we take
the oi)])C)rtiii)itv to introduce an illustration of the building as it
now exists. I mi.
to which the city long ago gave the free use of the pictur-
esque Old State-house,' above the ground-floor, and has
converted the old-time halls of legislation in the carefully
restored building into a rich museum of all manner of anti-
quities relating to the history of Boston. Medford is a fine
Colonial town with a goodly number of stately old dwellings.
One of these, the Cradock House, built in the year 1632 for
Governor Cradock of the Massachusetts Bay Colony — who
never came over from England to occupy it — is reputed to
be the oldest dwelling in the original portion of the United
States. Singularly enough, this has very lately been esta-
blished to be not the picturesque brick house "^ that has long
gone by that name and which is a very close reproduction of
a typical English farm-house, but is identical with what is
known as the "Garrison House,"' in the centre of the city,
still occupied as a very comfortable and prosperous looking
dwelling. The highly active Medford Historical Society —
a member of which unearthed in London the map and other
documents that attested this important fact — had once
endeavored to secure for its headquarters the fine old Royall
House ■" with its extensive grounds, a particularly imposing
mansion of pre-Revolutionary days, but the owners would
not part with it. Its use, however, was secured as the scene
of a notable historical festival given by the Society a few
years ago. The Society thereupon contented itself with more
modest quarters, but most attractively and appropriately
To balance the effect of the adjoining cut of the Garrison House.
at Newburyport. we introduce here an illustration of another old
house in the same quaint seaport. It is a tvpical of many dwell-
ings throughout Xew England and wherever these are seen.
J<i^;^^^:S0^^^^f!f^?^''
riie Cnlliiis House, Newburyport, Mass.
even when standing in absolute isolation in the midst of a barren
shore-pasture thev attract attention and admiration because of their
air of thorough homelikene.ss, and in more than one of them
interesting interior features arc to be found.-- I'.n.
« Plates 2-6. Part I.
72
THE HOTEL CLUNY OF A NEW ENGLAND V/LLAGE.
71
fitted up, in the shape of the old-fashioned house that has through Plum Island Sound, whose quiet waters, shallow and
an historical interest in American literature, and in the variegated with delicate shadings of green and blue, are
anti-slavery movement, as the birthplace of Lydia Maria sheltered from the tossing Atlantic by the long and narrow
Child. insular barrier of sand-dunes. From Newburyport a train
In certain respects, however, the most notable accomplish- will bring one back to Boston in an hour or so. Or, one
ment in this direction is the work of the Ipswich Historical may extend the day's pleasuring by taking another steam-
Society in the restoration of an ancient dwelling to its prinii- boat up the Merrimac, VVhittier's beautiful river, and there
tive condition as it existed in the primal days of the Massa- find a train for Boston.
chusetts Bay Colony. This work has been done with such The Hotel Cluny, as all know, is a magnificent old French
fidelity, such fine appreciation and understanding, and the chateau preserved exactly as in the ancient days, and filled
house, with its collections, is intrinsically so fn!l of interest, with a priceless collection of objects representative of the
that it deserves wide celebrity, both as an example of what life of its day. It sets an example of what may wisely be
might be accomplished in not a few other places, and as one clone with fine old buildings elsewhere— though the example
of the most interesting sights for visitors to New England. may more wisely be bettered by a better arrangement and
For the latter, the quaint old town of Ipswich is in itself classification of the collections shown therein than has been
well worth going far to see. Although one of tiie most effected at the Hotel Cluny. It is a far cry, of course, from
travelled lines of railway on the continent passes through the superb Parisian chateau, and the splendors for which it
it, the beautiful old town has preserved its ancient charms in stands, to the austere Puritan age and land when our mighty
a sort of isolation amidst the wide levels of the vast salt- country was all one frontier, facing the ocean on one side
marshes that spread before it. The clear Ipswich River and the savage wilderness on the other, with a meagre fringe
rambles gently down from the inland hills, and here, in the of settlements. But the Whipple House, of Ipswich, like the
heart of the town, tumbles in falls down to the tidal level. Hotel Cluny, of Paris, represents the best of its day, and it
thence meandering through the marshes to the sea, whence stands as, probably, the most faithful reproduction yet
vessels come and go at
the wharves that were
once the scenes of a lively
commerce in the days
when all the coast-ports
were havens for maritime
advenlurings. .Skirting
the river are the quiet
winding streets, shaded
by great elms and bord-
ered by many fine old
houses. Just over the
town there rises the noble
drumlin shape of Heart-
break Hill like a gigantic
billow — celebrated in a
poem by the late I.ucy
achieved of the home en-
vironment of the primi-
tive Colonial life of New
England in the days when
our ancestors, with their
stern beliefs, their harsh
moralities, their appalling
superstitions, might be
regarded as little more
^ than barbarians, when
measured by the stand-
ards of to-day.
The visitor to Ipswich
by train finds the Whipple
House just across the way
from the station, towards
which its low walled back
The Wliipi'le H*'iise, Ipswirli, M.iss.
Larcom that tenderly records the legend of the Indian is turned in accordance with the ancient rule that faced all
maiden who, from its sunimit. daily looked ii v.iin for the houses to the south when standing detached. Venerably
coming of her lover. It is true that upon a la>t-centnry map
of the town the designation of " Hard Brick Hill " is inscribed.
But good authority declares this to be a prosaic and ignorant
corruption of the original natne.
The charms of the town itself and the loveliness of the
homely, in the truest sense of the word, and restored to its
origirial aspect as carefully as the most scholarly research
and the most scrupulous adherence to ascertained facts can
make it possible, it is certainly one of the most notable old
houses in the United States. The simple beauty of its setting
environing landscape make Ipswich a favorite resort for is in striking harmony with its character. This environment,
artists through the summer. The scenery is that which .Mr. indeed, is doubtless less austere than that of the house in its
J. Appleton Brown loves to paint, pastoral and idyllic, with primitive days. But in its quaint charm it reproduces the
its rolling uplands, its tranquil waters and its placid marshes effect of the grounds of the Colonial mansion at their best, a
that enter in among the hills in mysterious tree irinj^ed bays century later; grounds such as this house may then well have
/and coves. Artists come hither by the score to feast upon possessed. And a work of this character and public im-
the beauty of the countryside. And Ipswich is the home of portance, truly monumental in intention, demands surround-
two painters of national repute, Mr. Arthur W. Dow, whose ings that betoken the esteem in which it is held.
birthplace it is and who has found here many of his strikingly When the work was undertaken it seemed an heroic task
original themes; and Mr. Theodore Wendel, whose wife is a
daughter of the town.
It would be difficult to arrange a more delightful excursion
for a summer-day than to start out early in the morning from
Boston on a trolley-trip to Ipswich by way of Lynn and
Salem and through the diversified scenery of Essex County, character that so frequently obtains in the neighborhood of
arriving in time to inspect the old Whipple House, and a railway, even in a good old rural town. But intelligence
then, after luncheon, taking the little steamboat that plies and energy soon radically changed the face of things. The
between Ipswich and Newburyport twice a day upon a fas- head and front of the Ipswich Historical Society is its presi-
cinating voyage down the river and by the inside route dent, the Kev. T. Frank Waters, pastor of the Trinitarian
to effect creditable results from the conditions into which
the house and its \icinage had fallen from their once high
estate. The structure was shabby and dilapidated with mis-
use, and mutilated by various successive reconstructions,
while its surroundings were of the depressingly squalid
"4
THE GEORGIAX PERIOD.
Congregational Church, and throwing himself into the work his report at the first annual meeting of the Society, celebrat-
with heart and soul, the ancient house seemed to resume its ing the achievement of one of its prime declared objects in
proper guise as if under the touch of magic. As the in- " the preservation of and finishing in Colonial style of one of
vesiigations necessary to the required repairs proceeded, tlie the ancient dwelling-iiouses of said Ipswich": 'The size
original state and shape of the building were gradually and quality of these superb oak-beams, their finely finished
revealed sufficiently to atYord a sure guidance in the work of moulded edges, the substantial oak floor joists, the great
restoration. This work, however, could not possibly have
been so complete, had not the mechanics employed given
themselves to the work with an enthusiastic devotion. And
the e.xisteiice among these of names like Sullivan and Thibe-
deau, besides names savoring of the soil, like Choate, Goditt
and Lord, show how completely the late-coming elements
posts, with their escutcheons so laboriously wrought, the
noble size of these four great rooms, proclaim that this was
a iiome of wealth and refinement, and make it easy for us to
believe that it was the finest mansion of the town."
The work of restoration required patience, thoroughness
and delicacy. All the woodwork had to be laboriously and
assimilate themselves to the New England spirit of the best carefully scoured to remove the grime and whitewash with
old communities. Mr. Thibedeau, for instance, though which it was coated in layer after layer. The process of
employed as a carpenter, was specially commended by the reconstruction was fascinating to follow in its revelation
committee in charge for his wonderful patience and persist- of the peculiarities of ancient methods of house-building,
ence in giving weeks of hard and painstaking toil to scraping The spaces between the studs, from sill to plate, were found
and scrubbing the woodwork, always standing in perfect fiUed-in with brickwork, and this was preserved so far as
readiness to do anything however far removed from his possible. In one of the chambers, the manner of this con-
natural province. It is particularly gratifying to note these struction is exhibited by means of a plate of glass set into
facts, testifying to the persistence of the old spirit of the the wall and framed with the care that might be shown f ^r
a treasured old master. The places where the handsome old
windows were was shown with exactness, and their restora-
tion proved one of the
most effective features of
the house, bringing it
closer into relation with
its models across the sea,
where the same form of
window is to-day in com-
mon use. It was of
course easy to disclose
the fireplaces that had
been shut in to allow the
substitution of the ugly
and economical stove.
But these were small fire-
places of comparatively
modern date, nesting
within the enormous
originals built of stone —
mendable work of restoration and created one of the finest the latter so well preserved that it was an easy matter to
historical monuments in the country, a perfect specimen of restore them in all their completeness. Much of the old
artisan who finds pleasure in his work, when so much is said
nowadays about the decline of the modern mechanic and his
departure from old-time
standards. But in this
instance, with the good
old New England
'•faculty" guiding the
work, from the highest to
the lowest, and practi-
cally the whole com-
munity showing the
deepest interest, the ends
were achieved with aston-
ishing economy and com-
pleteness. The sum of
$1,650 purchased the
place, and an expenditure
of only a little more than
a thousand dollars ac-
complished this com-
The Whi|)p]e House, Ipswicli, Mass
the seventeenth-century architecture of New England.
In the course of restoration all the decayed spots were cut
out of the ancient beams and new wood was skilfully inserted,
the exterior was newly clapboarded and shingled — clap-
boards, it seems, preceded shingles as a covering for outside
walls; diamond-paned windows, low and broad, replaced
the perpendicular and narrow ones that an ugly later fashion
plastering was so perfect that it did not have to be touched.
And, by way of experiment, for a deal of the new work
made necessary to replace the old plastering, the ancient
fashion of making a compound of clay, sand and salt hay
was tried with entire success.
Exactly how old the house is has not yet been ascertained.
But it certainly dates back to the middle of the seventeenth
had given the house, and a coat of dark stain restored the century, and possibly a house that stood on the place when .
exterior fully to its old-time aspect. its sale to Mr. John Whipple, an eminent man of Ipswich,
Within, comparatively modern changes had much sub- was completed by a quit-claim deed from John Fawne in the
divided the four great rooms into which the main part of the year 1650, may have formed a portion of it. Mr. John
house was originally divided. All the partitions were Whipple had been living on the spot since 1642 at least. It
removed and the rooms were restored to their old shape, has been well established, however, that in the first years of
In each was built a huge fireplace in the old style. When the Colony the Puritans very seldom built the roomy and
the plaster ceilings were torn away the original Hoor-joists of coinfortable dwellings that it has been supposed they did.
hewn oak were revealed, with the original plastering between Their first abodes were huts and dug-outs, inferior to the rude
them. The big beams and the joists were carefully scraped
and oiled, and the contrast between their rich brown hue
and the while of the plaster between them gave to the large
rooms with their \ery low ceilings — which a person of
average height can easily touch with his hand — an appear-
ance that is picturesque, and at the same time is dignified
with the air of old-time stateliness. As the president said in
dwellings of the pioneers on the prairies of the U'est. Some
years passed before the accepted Colonial home, even in its
humblest shape, began to appear with the development of
well-being in the land. Even the rough shanty where Italian
laborers huddle would have been deemed luxurious by our
Puritan ancestors in their first years in the New World.
The Whipple House in its present shape is a growth formed
Till- IfOTI-L CfA'NY OF A XEW KNGLAXD VILLAGE.
75
by successive enlargements made in the course of a consider-
able number of years. In its original shape it apparently
consisted of what is now the western half of the main portion.
First ihe house was doubled in size and then two successive
additions were made in the rear, giving it the long sloping
roof on the north side so characteristic of many old farm-
houses. In its present shape, therefore, the house in its
very old portion comprises four rematkably large rooms,
two on the ground-floor and two above, each wiih a fireplace
big enough to contain great logs of wood. In the adapta-
tion of the house to the uses of the Historical Society, and
its conversion into what may be called a museum of the
ancient New England home, each of these four rooms, with
its collections, has been given a typical character.
First and chief of these comes the '" hall " in the great east
room. This is by no means the hall of the eighteenth
century Colonial mansion — the spacious entrance-room, with
its stately staircase, running through the centre of the house.
Here the front door is likewise in the middle, but a tall
man must stoop to enter, and keep stooping while in the
diminutive entry, where a steep and narrow flight of stairs
twists itself upward besides the gigantic chimney-stack that
shows how its original size was doubled when the house was.
In New Eigland, as in old, the hall was the common gather-
ing-place of the family — the place where the meals were
cooked and eaten, where the spinning and weaving was done,
where the household came together to enjoy the heat and
the light of the enormous fire on the hearth beneath a
chimney which, as Mr. Waters tells us, was ample enough to
allow boys on mischief bent to drop a live calf from the roof,
as they did one night into poor old Mark Quilter's kitchen.
It was often a scene of much jollity, we may believe, for the
Puritans could not always and universally have maintained
their traditional austerity. And the room was so spacious
that we maybe sure that it invited to no little frolicsomeness
among the young folks, and we may even fancy that at times
the floor was cleared for a bouncing good dance. So the
place was a "hall" in the amplest sense of the word. It
was not until a much later date that the room became exclu-
sively a kitchen. And our Irish fellow-citizen, even though
he may have rolled up wealth in city contracts, is but per-
petuating the traditions of the baronial hall when he insists
on spending his home hours sitting by the kitchen-stove in
his shirt-sleeves, with clay-pipe in mouth.
The beautiful old hall of the Whipple house is a fascinat-
ing gallery of the quaint utensils of domestic and industrial
use in the old-time New England home — everything that
entered into kitchen-service, barn-service, field-service, spin-
ning, weaving, etc., beside various things whose purposes
the most patient research, the most ingenious conjecture,
have not yet been able to discover. We laugh at the clinnsi-
ness of certain of these utensils, but we are compelled to
admire the simple way in which many others met the needs
of the time. Clever examples of Yankee, or pre Yankee,
ingenuity are some of these things: for instance, the '•cradle-
churn," where the milk was contained in a long, trough-like re-
ceptacle mounted lengthwise on rockers. As the housewife
and others went about their domestic tasks they would give
it a touch in passing. This was sufficient to keep it going,
and so the butter was made without any appreciable effort.
In the corner of the large west room there remained a fine
old buffet as a relic of the olden days. This suggested the
wainscotting of the room with some handsome panelling
taken from an old house in the town, the Rogers Manse,
built in 1728, and given to the Historical Society by the
owner. Over the mantel a quaint painted panel represent-
ing a panoramic view of Ipswich town from the river, with
Heart Break Hill in the b.Tckground, and the water enlivened
with old-fashioned shipping, was inserted. The woodwork
was painted white, making a typical eighteenth-century room
of it. This is appropriately used for the exhibition of old
china and crockery, silver, etc., old-fashioned musical instru-
ments, a collection of rare old books, pamphlets and manu-
scripts, and many other interesting things.
The east ciiamber has been made the meeting-room of the
Society and fitted up after the fashion of an old-style "best
room," enriched with many beautiful old curios of historic
value. The interest taken in the old house brought to the
collections in these three rooms an extraordinary number
of antiquities, given or loaned not only by the people of
Ipswich, but by friends throughout Essex County and in
many other parts of the country.
The west chamber was made the room of the resident care-
taker. It was a piece of good fortune for the Society to
secure for this responsible position a lady of the experience
and capacity of Miss Alice A. Gray, curator of the Depart-
ment of Textiles in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and a
niece of the famous botanist, the late Prof. Asa Gray. It
was equally a pleasure for Miss Gray to make her home in
an ideal old-fashioned house and to supervise the arrange-
ment of its fascinating collections. Beside using the west
chamber as her office, she has fitted it up as a typical old style
"best chamber" — a special addition to the attractions of
the house The rear portion of the house was, moreover,
converted into a charming apartment for herself and her
housekeeper ; a cosy suite with a delightful air of old-fashioned
comfort unobtrusively reinforced by the modern conveniences
without which life in a house of the kind would be a pastime
that a child of the nineteenth century would soon weary of.
-An attractive feature of this suite is the row of snug little
chambers with slant ceilings under the roof on the second
floor.
A sort of thorn in the flesh for the Historical Society,
after the completion of its task, was the uncomfortable
proximity of a most disreputable-looking old tenement-house
on the rear side, between the ancient mansion and the rail
way-track, But one day Miss Gray iiad a visit from a Boston
friend, a lady whose means enable her to follow her natural
inclination to do all sorts of good deeds. The visitor was
thoroughly delighted with what had been accomplished, and
the next day Miss Gray received from her a check for $2,000
to enable the Society to complete its work by giving its home
a suitable environment through getting rid of the adjacent
eyesore. With this money not only was the tenement-house
purchased and demf)lished, but a new old-fashioned garden
was laid out on its site, and about the ancient dwelling: a
gay multitude of the blooms cherished by our mothers, our
grandmothers, our great grandmothers, and losing no favor
in the eyes of ourselves or our children, assemble their
gladsome motley before the sober gray of the ancient walls;
a box-bordered walk leading up to the caretaker's door past
a handsome sun-dial of stone : a well with its old-time sweep
at the side of the house. These touches made the whole
complete. Sylvester BAXtKU.
A Few Northern and Southern Peculiarities.
MONGST the several particulars in which the of the manufactured goods which were naturally consumed
A Colonial architecture of the Northern States differs
from that common in Maryland and Virginia, where
lie the most interesting and typical examples of
Southern work, is, first, the difference of building-material, the
Northern man of wealth commonly building his house of
wood, while his Virginian
contemporary more often
made use of brick. Two
facts may explain this
difference. No wood is
more delightful to work
in, and few woods stand
the passage of time
better, than the white-
pine, which was to be
had in such abundance
and at such slight cost
by the early house-
builder at the North,
and, as the relative light-
ness of the timber al-
lowed quick handling,
this, added to the ease
of working it, made
wood-built houses far
cheaper than they could
be at the South, where
the pine and other
timber-trees were of less
kindly nature. It thus
became at tiie North a
mere matter of course to
build almost everything
of wood, even though
clay-pits were as good
and as accessible as the
clay-beds of Virginia.
This would account for
the general use of wood
in the North, but it does
not explain why brick,
since much of it was im-
ported from England, might not have been used with the natural economic and nautical law, quite as much as the
same frequency by gentlemen in the North as in the South, whim or prejudice of the heads of Southern families, that
The probable explanation is this: the country was, during accounts for one of the essential dififerences between the
the reigns of the Georges, self-supporting to a large degree ; Southern and Northern mansion of the period. Northern
it produced its own provender, of course, and also the builders did use brick, of course, for chimneys, for the nog-
clothes required by the commonality, and in the same way ging of the exposed north and east walls of wooden houses,
home manufacturers were already able to produce much
The Difference (if the Point of-view : a Cii^e nf divided Ownei'sliii .
by people of small means. The imports from abroad, then,
consisted mainly of such wares as the more wealthy required,
luxuries, fine furniture, machinery that could not yet be
produced in our machine-shops, high-bred stock, and so on,
and, as the bulk of these goods was not very great, not very
many ships were required
for their transport. On
the other hand, the ex-
ports from this country,
consisting already of
cereals and some cotton,
but more largely of to-
bacco, commodities of
considerable bulk, re-
quired a good many ships
to carry them, or, what
amounts to the same
thing, the repeated voy-
aging of a smaller fieet.
The natural result was
that the inward freight
ran lighter than the out-
ward, and shipmasters
were glad to bring over
the bulky building-ma-
terials whether as low-
paying freight or as the
mere ballast required by
an empty ship if she is
to be able to lay her
course. As the bulky
tobacco crop was, of
course, loaded at the
wharves of the Southern
planters, it was natural
that they more than
their Northern neighbors
should profit by the
brick which served as
the useful ballast for the
light incoming vessels.
It was this working of a
' By permission from photographs of Frank Cousins.
76
A F]-l\- NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN PECULIARITIES.
77
and some buildings were built entirely of brick ; these bricks,
too, were, as was natural, of English sizes, but we believe
that most of them were of home make. In fact, toward the
close of the eighteenth century Boston was tlie centre of a
large brick-burning industry, something like four millions
a year being produced in Medford alone; but Boston was
then becoming a large town and the bricks were consumed
in the building of the early city blocks and not in the isolated
houses of the gentry.
The growth of the typical Southern house-plan, due to the
employment of colored house-
servants and the desirability of
segregating them from the white
occupants of the homestead,
has already been explained
elsewhere, but there is one
feature of the plan which is
quite common in the Southern
arrangement of rooms which
is extremely rare in the North-
ern. In many of the Southern
mansions there was provided
a room which was originally
used as a ballroom and is still
known by that name. It is
beyond question that the
Southern families had, and still have, quicker social sympa-
thies than the descendants of the Puritans, whose cominj;s and
goings were controlled by the statutes and conventions that
preceded the ''blue laws." The early sumptuary laws that for-
bade the wearing of fine clothing or the purchase of '■ any ap
parel, either woolen, silk, or linen, with any lace on it, silver,
gold, silk or thread, under the penalty of forfeiture of such
clothes," had been modified, and so, too, had the prohibition
Skelcli of Ball-room
lection in favor of the hipped roof and was, towards the end
of the eighteenth century, rather inclined to a flatiish slope,
particularly when slate was used in place of shingle. But
the essential difference lies in the more frequent use by the
Northerner of the deck-roof, the deck usually surrounded by
a decorative balustrade of posts and palings. In most cases
builders were content with short hips of about the same
length for all houses, which resulted in giving a larger or
smaller deck according to the superficial area of the plan ;
but sometimes the deck was treated as a monitor, with low
vertical sides, with oblong win-
dows intervening between the
upper deck-roof and the lower
sloping one. This type is ex-
hibited in rather grotesque ex-
aggeration in the old Leviness
house on City Island, N. Y.,
where the house is closed-in by
two monitor roofs, as it were,
one above the other, of sizes
decreasing with the ascent of
the stories. The genesis of
this type of roof, which is par-
ticularly common in the coast-
towns of New England, we are
inclined to ascribe to the fact
that the owners of the houses, if not themselves shipmasters,
were or had been ship-owners, and felt the need of an ele-
vated place from which they could watch for the incoming of
their latest " venture." It is but an architectural modifica-
tion of the ubiquitous cupola which, in simple or complex
form, is the common feature of the littoral architecture of
New England coast-towns. As Salem was the seat of the
lucrative East India trade and so was the home of many a re-
House, Woburii, Mass.
Count Rumford's House, W'obun:, Mass.
against "mixt dances"; but the relics of hereditary training
still lingered in society and it was not considered essential
that every man living on his own estate a few miles out of
town should provide himself with a ball-room especially
devoted to social pleasures. Ordinarily, the front and b.ick
parlors, with their one folding-door, or their two doors, one
on either side of a central fireplace, serverl tiie purposes of
daily and occasional social duties. Still, the special ball-
room, such as tiiat in Count Ruinforrl's house at Woburn. is
to be found here and there in Northern houses of the times.
In still another particular, in point of design, there is a
difference between the Northern and the Southern house, and
this difference is to be found in the treatment of the roof.
While the Southern designer seems to have used tlie pitch
roof and the hipped roof indifferently, he was rather more
inclined to the pitched roof, and when he used a hipped roof
his roof-slope was rarely less than forty-five degrees. On
the other hand, the Northern designer had a distinct predi-
Leviness House, City Island, N. V.
tired shipmaster the deck-roof house is rather a characteristic
of the place.
Just why the interior woodwork of the Northern house
should have the greater refinement and delicacy usually
ascribed to it. as compared with Southern work of the same
time and evidL-nt cost, is not easy to determine, unless the
reason lies in tlie fact that much of the Southern finish must
have been worked and set up by negro carpenters, who did
what they did with somewhat of Chinese iniitativeness, and
did not have that personal appreciation of fitness and the love
of thorough work that used to distinguish the all-round New
England woodworker. Upon one point we are fairly satis-
fied, and that is that the great ingeiniity, beauty and variety
displayed in the newels and hand-railings of Northern stair-
cases, virtues which make them incomparably more interest-
ing than staircases found elsewhere, must be due to that
guild of skilled ship-carvers whose prowess in turning-out
figure-heads finally stimulated that ridiculous personage,
rs
THE GEORGTAN PERIOD.
Timothy, Lord Dexter, to surround his house at Newbury- tools which was not so likely to be acquired by any other
port with some two score of effigies, which he amused himself class of artisan than the ship-carvers, the fact that these
by naming and renaming as the whim seized him. Still twisted balusters are so evidently based on rope forms would
Box-stairs: the Timothy Onie IlotisCj Ksscx .Street, S.Tlein, Mass.^ Box-stairs; IJrowii House, .Summer Street, Salem, Mass.^
there is so much skill and ingenuity, so much mathematical remind one that these carvers habitually made use of the
knowledge displayed in working-out some of the "turned and rope-moulding, both hawser-laid and cable-laid, both in
twisted" newel-posts that, on the whole, it seems probable cabin fittings and in the flamboyant decorations about the
Doorway al Clarkson NJ.Y.
^gjij
^^MUM-
. Inches
Old Colo;iial WorK on the Ridge Road
McasuiefJ and dt-awn by J.F.StrobcI Jr
that they may have been all the work of a single and spe- old-fashioned cabin galleries and the figure-heads at the bow,
cially gifted artisan, and, if so, it is regrettable that he is and that it would be not difficult for an ingenious-minded
nameless. Aside from the dexterity in handling carving- man to pass from the cutting of a cable-laid moulding to the
""i ]iy permission from pliuto-raphs of Frank CousinsT working-out of a twisted newel-post. The twisted baluster
A FEW NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN PECULIARITIES.
79
itself was not, of course, invented by these men, as the form
was imported from England together with other features of
the style, but the fact that it is in such common use in sea-
port towns like Salem — where a greater variety is to be found
than elsewhere — certainly suggests that in such places there
was a class of men specially skilled in work of that character.
Whether to these men was duo the more purely architectural
carving involved in some of the composite and Corinthian
capitals, there is more reason to doubt : but whoever carved
these capitals were workmen of no mean order, for surely
one would have to travel far before he could find a more ad-
mirable set of Corinthian capitals than that which lends grace
to Bulfinch's colonnade of the Massachusetts State-house.
Where so much attention was given to one member of a
staircase, it was only natural that the other members should
be brought into proper relation of elaboration with it, and the
negatived by want of refinement in the treatment of the
details, due, in part, to that lack of ability on the part of
the Southern artisan spoken of before and, perhaps, in some
degree to the misunderstood, and so pernicious influence of,
French work, more or less Rococo in form and spiiit, which
had found its way into this country by way of the Southern
seaports. On the whole, however, we are inclined to attribute
the greater refinement and delicacy of Northern work to the
temperamental and inherited conscientiousness of the North-
ern workman, and to that peculiarly Yankee wideawakeness
and native ingenuity which still causes the artisans of their
blood to work with their heads as much as with their hands,
with all their perceptions on the alert to do things in the
best way and the last thing taken in hand by a better method
than the first. The impress of active inventiveness and per-
sonal ingenuity is observable in Northern work everywhere.
i
Dketl-i of
I>oorway on South Main Street, Providence, K. 1.
fine newels, rails and balusters of the Salem staircases are
kept in countenance by the results of the careful study that
was given to the other parts, particular attention being given
to the treatment of the stair-ends. Without going so far
as to pretend that the box-stair was a feature peculiar to
Salem, it may safely be said that nowhere can be found a
greater and more interesting variety of treatment of this type
of stair-building.
Climatic conditions, the necessity of keeping the house
warm in severe weather and perhaps a certain Puritan parsi-
mony prevented Northern builders from devoting to their
staircase-halls the same generous space that Southern
builders could safely indulge in, and this, of course, had an
effect on the planning of the stairs themselves, and the
straight-run or the dog-legged stair in a comparatively narrow
hallway is more common in the North than in the South.
But while the planning of the staircase-hall was usually
more interesting in Southern than in Northern buildings,
this superior interest was largely qualified and sometimes
Newel and Railing; Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa.
Built at about the same time as they were, it would yet
have been impossible for Bulfinch and the artisans who built
the interesting staircase-hall in the McLean Asylum, Somer-
ville, Mass., — now torn down, but the staircase bought and
preserved by some amateur whose name escapes us — to have
u.sed the unrefined and clumsy forms adopted by the designer
and builders of the staircase in the Pennsylvania Hospital,
in Philadelphia. Even in less ambitious work, in houses of
no great architectural pretentiousness, such as that on the
Ridge Road, Rochester, N. Y., from which the annexed
details are drawn, there are evident the clear traces of indi-
vidual effort and native ingenuity. In this example, though
late in date, the balusters though crude are still refined in
intention and the elliptical columns siiow that the designer
understood his style and was not content to do his work by
rule of-thumb.
So, too, in the case of the porch from Providence, R. I.,
there is even greater evidence of native ingenuity in the
foliated brackets that lake the place of capitals upon the
Sc
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
pilasters. These bracket-caps, crude though they are, express
a genuine feeling which .siiould attract the attention of those
students who delight in tracing the history of the genesis of the
Ionic volute or the Corinthian capital, for here is surely a miss-
ing link which may have had its origin in Syria or elsewhere.
The e.xiyencies of climate ac-
count, also, for the more frequent
use of the covered piazza in
the South, the galleried or two-
storied piazza being one of the
typical distinctions of the plan-
tation-house even to this day ;
but it is pretty certain that in
most cases the earlier houses
were built without them. It is
very commonly assumed that
the piazza is, if not a specificall)
.American architectural device.
at least one which is not indi-
genous to England. But the
donb'.e galleries of the Southern
plantation-house so distinctly recall the courtyard galleries of
the old English inns, from the time of Elizabeth, the Virgin
Queen, down to that of Sain Weller, that it is not impossible
that the ubiquitous piazza of inodern American architecture
Jamaica House, Jamaita Ri
the industrious diarist Pepys, and of which a portion was still
standing in 1854 near Bermoiulsey.
Since, broadly speaking, people in the North gathered to-
gether in more or less compact settlements, villages and towns
sooner than in the South and so found a need for separating
and bounding fences, perhaps
there can be found in Northern
towns a greater variety of gates,
posts and railings than is to be
found in the more open regions
of the South. Still in such
places as Charleston, S. C, one
finds quite as much interesting
material of this sort as elsewhere,
and in addition, moreover, an
exceptionally interesting display
of wrouglu-iron railings, window-
screens, brackets, etc.
Doubtless the temperamental
difference between the North-
ad, liermondsey, in 1667. j ..1 c .1 1 j
erner and the Southerner showed
itself in the decorative treatment of the walls and inside finish,
but how that difference declared itself we profess to have no
knowledge. Dutch tiles were imported indifferently into both
sections, handsome mahogany furniture \,-as equally in use
Entrance Hall : Pennsylvania Hospital, Pliiladelpliia, Pa. [i7'/>.]
may be derived from the Shakespearean inn. via the houses of and proper backgrounds had to be provided for it, and walls
Southern and West Indian planters. The fact that the ex- had to be prepared for the se;ting-off of oil-portraits of near
ternal piazza was not unknown to the England of Wren's time or remote ancestors. But how walls were treated before the
is shown by the annexed sketch of " Jamaica House " — per- introduction of the scenic wallpaper and whether all standing-
haps built by a returned West Indian — once frequented by finish was painted white is, so far as we know, undetermined.
The Georgian Houses of New England.'
IN England, during the last fifty years, one historical style
after another has found favor with architects and their
clients. The "Vitnivius Britannicus" shows what a
hold Palladian design had on that country. The Houses
of Parliament and the new Law Courts indicate quite differ-
ent tendencies in the public taste. Between these extremes
Put our heirlooms — any old material we have — into a
mediaeval room, and they will be more or less out of keeping.
In fact, with the successive fashions that in recent years have
swept over the country, we have to build, not new houses
alone, but all their furnishings to match. It would be worth
while for us to remember that our heirlooms are tall clocks,
there were many other "periods" that had their followers Copley or Stuart portraits, convex mirrors, ancient chests and
and when fashion turned for models to the time of Queen drawers, bits of carving perhaps by Gibbons, Paul Revere
Anne and the Georges there
was at least one strong ar-
gfument to support the move-
ment. It was truly asserted
that this period was the latest
one during which art as ap-
plied to building was indige-
nous, or at least well under-
stood by the craftsmen who
used it. The modern lovers
of this style hoped to bring
back something of this simple
and happy condition.
The buildings that came of
these endeavors certainly
have a familiar and cosy
charm. In the homely work
of the time of the Georges
architects found walls of red
brick and white mortar, tiled
roofs, white doors and sashes,
and well-studied Classical
finish in wood and plaster
within and without the house.
They used the same means in
new work, and their buildings,
though supplied with comforts
that even Thackeray himself
did not dream of. would yet
have seemed as familiar and
homelike to him and to his
heroes as they do to us.
In .America we. too, have had successive revivals ni histori-
cal architecture, and back of these we now see there w;i-i a
time when, in the days of the Georges, all our mechanics
used one simple, refined and beautiful style of detail .Many
a choice wooden cornice, many a stiff wooden mantel in our
farmhouses attest this. "Plancia," "fascia" and "soffit" still
are V'ankee words in spite of our periods of revival. In
short we now have discovered that we, too. have bad an
artistic past worthy of study.
Christ Church T'OId Norlii Church''), Bo-^lon, Ma^s. [112s J
'Although some of the houses here inciitioiKMl liave disyp-
peared since this paper, now carefully revised, wa^ inililislKcl m ilic
tankards or andirons, brass
candlesticks, and chairs that
came over in the "Mayflower."
We tliink with interest of the
parish glebes of Cambridge
and Portsmouth, of the old
Tories' Row in Cambridge.
Many are the old wainscoted
rooms for which we have an
affectionate remembrance; the
staircases with boxed steps
with a rich scroll under each
bo.x. anil with the varied bal-
usters carved into a twist by
hand ; the great brick chim-
ney-corners with Dutch tile
borders, and crane. ]iot-hooks
and trammels, and hanging
kettles, and the yawning flues
resting on oak mantel-l)ars
and opening a clear road to
the stars above. W'benever
we see these interiors we, too.
want to live amid wainscoting,
nestle in elliptical-arched
nooks, and warm ourselves
lieneath the high mantels at
I)I,-izing wood fires, W'c want
lo see our old chairs and
pictures thus approjjriatcly
en\ ironed. We want to go
up to bed over boxed stairs
.icuarded bv ramped rails and twisted balusters. In short, in
this Colonial work we find delicacy, grace and picturesque-
ness. and, combined with it. a familiar aspect, and a fitness
to hannonize with all those heirlooms and old possessions
whicli miglu be put to shame by other fashions.
Though most of our models are of the Georgian period,
here and there one can be found of an earlier date. We
have our Charles River, our Cai)e .\nn, our Queen .\nne's
( 'orner, rind -onie bouses. ;[lso of early date. The Cradock
.lincricdii .hrhitcct. it has seemed worth wliile to speak of them
a^ existing, since tliuy are still mi well remembered.
S I
THE GF.OKGIAX PERIOD.
mansion was built in iho days of diaries the First: the
I'airbanks house in Dedhani, and the Curtis house in Jamaica
riain, during the
Comm o n \v e a 1 1 h ;
and these are still
o c e n p i e tl by the
f a ni i 1 i e s of their
builders. The Prov-
inee house' is of the
time of Charles II;
the S u d b u r y Inn
of James II ; the
Batchelder house
in Cambridge dates
from William and
Mary; the Old Cor-
ner Bookstore from
Queen Anne ; while
the President's
house and Massa-
chusetts Hall at
C a m b r i d g e, and
the A d a m s (once
X'assall) h o u s e at
Ouincy, all d a t e
from the reign of
George the First.
Tliese are represen-
tative houses; hut
yet tlie richest and
finest models we
have, date from be-
t w e e n 1727 and
1760, when (ieorge
II reigned: Pep-
perell house in Kit-
tery, 1730; Hancock
house/ 1737: Royall
h o u s e, Medford,
1738: Holden Chapel. Caniljridge, 1745; Wells mansion, Cam- I'.ngla
bridge. 1745: W'entworth house. Little Harbor, 1750; Long- house
Ci.ri.^l Ch'.;i\h. C:ir.iljridi^u, .Mass. j i 7O1.J Peter ilurrison. Architccl.
gable roofs. Rare instances occur like the stone Cradock
house at Medford. where the gambrel roof appears earlier;
but from 1686, the
date of the Sudbury
Inn. to 1737, the
(late of the Hancock
house, the gambrel
roof is common.
Later it became fre-
i|uent to pitch the
roof in from all
sides to a ridge or
to a second pitch
surrounded by a bal-
ustrade, and it is un-
<ler such roofs that
the richest interiors
of our neighborhood
are still found ; such
as the Longfellow
and Wells and Rie-
desel houses in
Cambridge, the
I -add and Langdon
at Portsmouth, the
W i n s 1 o w at Ply-
mouth, the Lee at
Marblehead.
Thus it appears
that the gambrel
roof is typical of but
one period of Co-
lonial work. Where
did it come from?
Though now and
then something like
it is seen in Eng-
land, it certainly is
not characteristic of
nd. It is said that the bricks of Peter Sergeant's
afterwards the Province House, were brought from
The WaysLle Inn, Sudbury. .\la
[1OS6.]
The Old Corner Bookstore. Boston, Mass. [About 1712. 1
fellow (\assall) house. 1759; Ladd house. I'ortsmouth. 1764. Holland: and it is at about that date that the gambrel roof
If wv study these Colonial buildings, w e- see nearly all the Ijecame prevalent. Possilily il is a reminiscence of Holland.
early work in tliis neighborhood roofed with steep-pitched but whether bv wav of luigland or of New York, it would be
'.\f)vv (lestrovcd ^ ' '''"■'' "O"' '" '"''>• ' '^'^ ''"'-''' ''"'' ■''*^''^'-''' mansions were large
THE GF.ORGIAX HOUSES OF XEW EXGLAXD.
83
and square, and with so little detail outside that until in
recent times, when our builders learned to give a texture or
tone that emulates the effect of age, tliev feared to imitate
these plain, angular and box-like forms — but now, as the
"Colonial House" is possessing the land, we, in turn, long
for the thin, sparse details of the early models.
But severity of form is by no means a characteristic of all
Colonial work. The old Fairbanks house' at Dedham. part of
which is of early date with high-pitched roof, and part later,
with a gambrel roof, forms a most picturesque pile; and
so does the scattered house" at Little Harbor, with gables at
different heights and floors at different levels, and with a
council-chamber wing that runs off from the main building at
an uncalled-for angle that would delight Mr. Xorman Shaw.
Again, among the gambrel roofs, the great lumbering Sud-
bury Inn, with its wide-spread barns and out-houses, forms a
most hospitable group, and the gables of the Goodman
they all have style and elegance, and they may properly
furnish inspiration to those who are to design nio<k'rn build-
ings for similar uses in those ancient neighborhoods.
The chief beauties of the detail in all our Colonial work
lie in its disciplined and almost universal refinement and dig-
nity, and. even when display is attempted, in the absence of
vulgarity or eccentricity. Then, too, we find Classical detail
everywhere used as the common language of every carpenter,
and treated freely with regard only for comfort, cosiness or
stateliness, and without a too superstitious reverence for
Palladio or Scamozzi. Hence arose a pure and harmonious
style, and one naturally inquires whence the information of
the old builders came, and whether tradition and copying, as
in medi;eval times, could have led to such a varied use of
Italian motifs, or whether for these Colonial carpenters there
was some more definite source of instruction.
The English mansions, which Xash and Richardson have
S -■•■''.,■,„ ";.':.'(i.'.iii w'. Ai,
•:,.'( I; VI iifj ,;;f 'ii\ir\\!'\ iii
1 1
•' ' ,':! ^ 'n III 1
«?3li»J!2.J«S.»Ji^^
■'lip
TheCiirtis ITtmsc, Jiini.-iita Plain. Mass. [ift.jy.]
cottage' at Lennox, low. broad and cosy, twinkle their manv-
eyed sashes over the lilac hedges of the forecourt as the
traveller passes through that lovely Berkshire" countrv.
These all show us that a picturesque group of any sort is
not incongruous with the style.
It is not because we have no public buildings that I have
dwelt on the Colonial mansions. The Old Xorth Church
and the King's Chapel, the Old State-house, the Newport
State-house, and the "Old Ship" Meeting-house at Hingham
are all excellent buildings. Simple though some of them are.
'Plate 25. Part I.
'Sec page 86.
'Of the Judge Walker house, the porch cf which forms the first
Plate of this Part, the present owner of the house. Rnlicrt C.
Rockwell, Esq., writes : —
"This house was built in 1804 l)y Judge William Walker, of
Lenox, for his son. Judge William Perrin Walker. Judge Rock-
well married the eldest daughter of the latter. The elder Judge
Walker was in early life a carpenter and builder, and proliably
this hous was built under his immediate supervision. Abnut the
sketched for us so thoroughly, were of an earlier period than
I'u- Iniilding days in our country. Longleat. Hatfield, Hol-
land House, and many of those structures which, like Long-
leat, were built under It.ilian care, or. like the others, bore
.1 more or less Italian detail on their niedi;eval forms, dat;-'
from about the time when the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth.
.Steep gables vie with jiediments in these compositions, and
mullions and pointed ;irches stand side by side with the
orders. Of such work no examples of moment were raised
on our shores, for it was doubtless long before buildings of
same time he I)uilt a compjinion liouse. of smaller size, at Lenox
I'urnace ( the presem Lenox Hale) for liis dauiibtor, tlie wife of I )i-.
Cliarles Wortliin.yton.
"The house at Lenox stands upon land known as the "Ministers'
(irant.' which was granted by the Province in I7.?9 to Ephraini
Williams and others, as compensation for certain lands in Stock-
bridge given up for the use of the Indian Mission. In the division
of tlie ■ .Ministers' Grant' in 1741, this land was set off to Jonathan
I'.dwards. the elder. Judge Walker bought the house site in 180.?.
and liuilt the house as al)ove stated."
84
THE GEORGIAX PERIOD.
any pretension were required
by a struggling people. But
this was not the case with mov-
able objects, and this Jacobean
period has been well handed
down to us in the many pieces
of furniture brought over or
made by the early colonists.
.\s is well known, the chairs
("eputed to have come over in the
''Mayflower" might have laden
a fleet, and the Xew England
family that does not possess
one or more has feeble claim
to aristocratic pretension. The
bulbous legs and posts, the
ill-formed pediments, and the
other details of this period, ap-
peared however, in our country,
in these works alone.
But meanwhile Inigo Jones
made his two visits to Italy,
and, full of enthusiasm for
Palladio's work, made his de-
signs in a more purely Italian
manner, with well-understood
detail. He even added an
Italian portico to the noble
medi;eval Cathedral of St. Paul.
When he died in 1652, Sir Christopher Wren monopolized ])osite ends of the house, and
all the important English practice, working always with much a common landing. At the
Holden Chapel: Harvard University. CambridRC, Mass. [1745.]
1723, Sir Christopher Wren
died. \'anbrugh, Hawksmoor,
Gibbs, Campbell, Taylor, Adam,
Chambers, such are the more
or less familiar names of those
whose work occupied the rest of
the century ; and the period
when our Colonial work was
rich and interesting is thus in-
cluded between the lives of
Jones and Chambers. Their
taste is often reflected in the
buildings of this time, which
indeed may have been some-
times of their own designing.
It was the period of rule
and method; of aliquot parts,
modules, and minutes. True,
this discipline was confined to
details; for, as in the case of
the exteriors of the houses, the
floor plans admitted very varied
and picturesque effects which
principally regarded the stairs.
.\t the Holmes house [now re-
placed by the Hemenway
( ^ynmasium] and Longfellow
house in Cambridge, the front
and rear stairs start from op-
separate again after meeting on
Ladd house and at one other
One 01 llic Buildings of the MuLcun Insane Asylum, Somervillc, .Mass. Charles Bulfinch, Architect. [About 1S20.]
regard for group and line, and mechanical skill, but with far house in Portsmouth, the stairs wind up in different manners
less care for detail than his predecessor. In his turn, in in the corner of the larger hall. .\t the Winslow house in
TI1E GEORGIAX HOUSES OF XEIV
Plymouth, the stair-landing crosses the door-opening, and the
portion left open above the landing is filled-in with twisted
balusters.^
'Concerning the Winslow house, Mr. J. Everett Chandler, archi-
tect, of Boston, writes of our ilhistration, Plate 2, as follows : —
"The print is a representation of the entrance to the old Wins-
low house in Plymouth, probably built about 1755, by a son of Gov-
ernor Winslow. Several years ago it fell to my lot to extensively
EX GLAND.
- - -r -
85
wings of an area equal to the old house necessitated other changes
until the cliaractcr of the house became considerably changed,
although the finish in the additions, inside and out, was made in the
spirit and period of the old— the earliest, strongest, and to my
mind the best, period of Colonial work. The doorway has an in-
teresting frieze of turkeys, vines, grapes and flowers— looking like
a curious mi.xture of a copy from old Byzantine work and a piece
of old embroidery, very like a piece I found in an old house near
by. I kept the door-frame exactly as it was, hoping it would rc-
S'aircase in Main Building, McLean Insane A^>■luIl), Somer^iile. Mass. Charie-. Bulfinch Architect- [i.^siS J
remodel and add to the old house for a Chicago gentleman, to be
used by him as a summer residence. The house had already been
changed greatly in a former remodelling, an<l the four front
rooms, the fine hallway and the exterior door, shown in the print,
were the only really old portions of the house left, an<l these have
been kept as much as possible as they were. But, on account of the
proximity of the house to two fine old lindens, the house was
moved back 30 feet and raised 5 feet. Then the addition of two
main so many years, but just as the house was ncaring completion
my client announced that he must have a covered porch ! So 1
rtluctaiuly added one, — copying exactly the arcliaic-looking Corin-
thian oriler, eiHablaturc, frieze and all — making an elliptical
porch with a domed top: — so the old doorway is still there,
although somewhat bidden from sight."
'This staircase was referred to in an earlier paper. See i)age
79, ante.
86
THE CEORCIAN PERIOD.
Yet. though picturesque effects add many charms to tliese
interiors, their distinguished and refined character could only
come from respect for arcliitcctural traditions and studied
training in the orders. It will be found that old libraries
furnish the clew to all this, much more than might be sup-
posed. The English works alone on architecture which ap-
peared in the last century are very numerous and very care-
fully prepared. I have fountl a large copy of Batty Langley's
classical work in an old loft in Xew Hampshire. I doubt
not that such hooks were common here in the days when our
earlv work was executed, and I think existing mantels,
cornices, alcoves, etc.. might possibly be identified if these
books were studied.
Mr. Eastlake. in his "History of the Gothic Revival."
speaks of English works on Classical design by Shute. in
1563, and Sir Henry W'otton, in 1624. These I have not
seen : but one can readily see others in our libraries Gibbs's
works, published in 1739, included the engravings of St.
Martin's Church in London. Batty and Thomas Langley.
besides their Gothic book, which Mr. Eastlake ridicules, also
published an excellent Classical work, most of the plates in
which are dated 1739. Ware's "Architecture." which is volu-
minous, and has many plates of interiors, is dated 1756.
Chippendale's book is dated 1762, and gives us furniture in
the "most fashionable styles," which were evidently French ;
and it seems as if Governor Langdon, who built in 1784. or
Jeremiah Lee, whose house dates from 1768, had perhaps
received a copy of this work before the Louis Quinze curves
were cut on their great cliimneypieces at Portsmouth and
Marblehead. This same Chippendale, whose chairs and
tables, or their copies, are fre(|uent in America, besides
affecting a French taste, had a fancy for Chinese work, giv-
ing us designs for chairs and railings in the Chinese manner.
Chairs of tliis made arc to he seen at T'ortsmouth. Chip-
•s. ^
'^S::::—ji=
'^ — ' liTn.c.BA»(^»o«.-
1
-^
^-^ — ' p^feC
pendale thus seems an amusing forenumer to the Queen-
Anne-Japanese designer of a recent day. Swan's book
follows these others in 1768. with many designs for mantels
and other work, and Paine publishes fine plates in 1783:
and the third edition of the correct and elegant Sir ^\■illianl
Chambers is dated 1791. In 181 1 Asher Benjamin published
in Charlcstown. Mass., the second edition of the "American
Builder's Companion." which contains most of the types of
cornices, mantels, and other details to be seen about the
houses of that date east of the Connecticut River. — such as
the Ticknor house on Park Street, the old r'ranklin Street
houses, and the West Boston Church in Boston, — and about
the same date, on the other side of the water, Thomas Hope
published a series of beautiful drawings of furniture, inspired
l)y the discoveries at Spalatro and at .\thens, and made
familiar to us by the I'rencli furniture of the First Empire.
Thus Hope foreshadowed the Greek and Roman revivals
with which we are familiar.
These books, which are probably but examples of a larger
number, indicate how our forefathers obtained their knowl-
edge. They are filled with designs of doors and windows,
cliimneypieces. buffets, monuments, clock-cases, bustos,
girandoles, tables, and chairs. Often the plates are very
fine, but they r.'irely suggest the extreme delicacy and fine-
ness of moulding so characteristic of the real work. Curi-
ously enough, however, though ramped rails and turned or
carved balusters occur in these books, I have not seen one
print of a twisted baluster such as were well-nigh universal in
all houses of importance with us at that time. This is not
because they were peculiar to this country ; indeed, I have
supposed ours generally were carved in England, and I well
remember almost identical patterns in London. It is strange
that they do not appear in the plates, considering that they
were the most conspicuous ornament in American work of
that time.
Almost all the designing to be seen in these volumes is
founded on a study of the orders, which is held throughout
as almost synonymous with the study of architecture. Mr.
B. Langley thus urges this fact on his hearers: —
" 'Tis a Matter of very great Surprise to me, how any
person dare presume to discourage others from the Study
thereof, and thereby render them very often less serviceable
to the Publick than so many Brutes. But to prevent this
Infection from diffusing its poisonous EfHuvia's any further,"-
he. in short, peremptorily admonislies his readers to under-
stand the five orders of columns, whose general proportions
will not escape their memories "after having practised them
about half a Dozen Times."
The orders are objects of serious study still throughout
the civilized world, and more now in this countrv than for
long past. There is no reason to fear the poisonous effluvia
that Mr. Langley deplored in his day. The prospective
house-owner may safely hope for a house in a classic style,
;ind, if he wants it homelike also, he can find no better field
for suggestions fitted to our tisages than among the Georgian
mansions of Xew England. Robert S. Peabody.
Georgian Door-heads in London.
Fig.
Cheyne Row, Chelbca. S. \V.
THK Londiin door-lieads illustrated in this paper arc
typical of seventeenth and eigliteentli century work
and are probahly chieflv interesting as regarded
comparatively, .".nd as evidence of the spirit of tlie
times which produced them. .Additional importance however
is found in the fact that these examples of ancient work
become year by year scarcer, disappearing for the most part
into the yard of the indiscriminating house-breaker, and but
rarely preserved in appreciation of merit. .\s architectural
features belonging to a time singularly barren as regards
London exteriors, they possess a significince generically,
which, developed to however extreme degree in modern
architecture, is am])le in itself. Of late years, when nothing
is so characteristic of moilern architecture as freedom from
traditional restraint, nor anything so notable as the evidences
of loving study and admiration of the time-spirit moving in
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it would i)rol);ibly
be interesting to note the play of fancy given to the repro-
duction of this feature — the doorway. It is indeed interest-
ing, but there is one restriction which breaks the entirety of
the develoi)ment — the present building-regulation, which
now forbids the erection of such a feature in wood. The
restriction has been met in many ways, — by the empbjyment
of carved brick, stone, stucco and, ni ire recently and with
considerable success, terra-cotta. Wood, however, is a ma-
terial with characteristic limitations and ])eculiarities en-
tirely foreign to all these substitutes; so the door-liead as
here illustrated has. so far as I.ondm is concerned, come to
be a relic of the past, not to be reproduced, save to tlie
arbitrary satisfaction of the District Surveyors. .\t any rate.
work of this nature is never carried out in London now.
It is curious to note that in London domestic work of the
jjcriud under discussion, the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, practically the whole of the external decorative
work was concentrated in the doorway and its approach, the
iron-railed threshold. Walling, windows, and for the most
part tlie area railings, were plain and simple in the extreme.
Only the actual doorway and the threshold railings, the iron
lamp brackets and link-extinguisher were wrought with some
generosity of spirit. The magnification of the entry has of
course a prime importance architecturally: and into this
perception the si.xteenth and seventeenth century builders
entered fully.
There are still remaining in the older parts of London,
streets and courts with door-heads in profusion, but for the
most part examples occur in partial solitude, where chance
combination of circumstance has permitted of preservation.
I'articularlv in mind at this moment are the districts of the
.\delphi. Westminster, Piloomsbury. Chelsea, and the lanes
.-md streets neighboring the various Inns of Court. Dept-
ford. too, south of
the Thames, for
centuries impor-
tant as a shipping
and ship-building
centre, is rich in
door-heads : when
we remeinber that
this was the Eng-
lish home of Grin-
ling (iibbons. the
111 a s t e r w o o d -
carver of F.nglisli
Renaissance, it is
easy to conceive
that a genius that
stamped itself in
every cut of the
tool would be an
influence spread-
ing from wliatever
centres containeil
liis most notable
work. In tlie City
and East End ex-
;iniples are not wanting where, a century ago, the merchant
lived with his work and had not been steani-taughl to sleep
ten, twenty — fifty miles from his ledger.
To consider the sketches here shown : those from liucking-
ham .Street, .\delphi (I'igs. 3 and 5), from their siniil.-irities
somewhat naturally fall together. Features, as thev are, of
HiR. 2. Ilnckinjjhani Street, Aiielphi, \V. C
88
TlIK (;iC()RC;i.\.\ PERIOD.
11 -• •-n,'/V/'|,iJ-
Fig. 3, Buckingham Street, Adelphi, W. C.
Fig. 4. Great Ormond Street, Biuomsbury, \V. C.
}r^lOtrf "^
Bj/lKW"*^'.'
Fig. S. Buckingham S reet, Adelphi, W. C.
Fig. 6. Great Ormond Screet, Bloomsbury, W. C.
GEORGIA X DOOR'HEADS IN LUX DON.
89
houses of equal date, of one building-scheme, they have so
much in common as to lead to the belief, on external evidence,
that they are the work of one mind. Buckingham Street was
formed, according to Pepys's 'Diary." somewhere between
1660 and 1684; the old York House, which occupied the site,
was then destroyed and residences named "York Buildings"
erected on the site. Part of these houses have been rebuilt.
but the original construction was so recent that there can be
little hesitation in deciding if the original has or has not
been preserved : and with regard to the two houses from
which these sketches (Figs. 3 and 5) are made, there is
every reason to attach to them as date that of the original
construction. The date, therefore, of the work in these
heads may be stated to be the end of the seventeenth century.
It is known that Wren was persona grata with the second
Duke of Buckingham. George Villiers. who parcelled out the
York House estate and sold it in building-plots for these
houses, and it is noways improbable that the building-scheme
sideration in the design. As shelter against any but almost
perpendicular rain or sun even Figure 3 would be of but
slight practical service, while Figure 5 would afford practically
no protection at all. At any rate, the suggestion presents
itself that the occurrence of these two doorways, coeval, so
differently principled, prohibits adhesion, so far as the seven-
teenth century is concerned, to any theory which would seek
to date these features according as they differ in treatment
between true weather-fences or ornaments pure and simple.
Quite as frequently as any development of this pilastered
type of door-head occur examples w-here the head is carried
entirely on brackets or consoles. Of these Figure i furnishes
a good specimen, including the effective central concavity.
Though examples are obtainable which possess a greater
measure of elaboration, there are not wanting in this door-
head (Fig. i) signs of thoughtful and clever treatment; the
proportions, as a whole, are pleasing, and there is that suc-
cessful grappling with the difficulties of a combination of the
lngjIPPiiaN
rig. 7. Great Ormond Street. Bloomsbury W. C.
,rtiiii»iif/«'«'*'
Fig. 8. (Juecn .\nne"s Gate. Westminster. S. \V.
was placed, in whole or in part, in \\ reus hands. \\'itli)ut
attempting to state definitely therefore whose ham! iiro-
duced these doorways, there is at least a basis to the pre-
sumption that we have in them a relic of the genius of Wren.
In themselves they are certainly pleasing: and without an
undue profusion of ornament, or on the other hand, anything
of the (shall we say?) forbidding character of many of the
productions of the .Adam brothers, they perform their func-
tion with unobtrusive grace anil dignity.
To speak of Wren in work of this stamp is to imply the
name of (irinling (iibbons. for Wren never lost the chance of
creating a beautiful thing in wood or stone, if by placing the
work with Griiiling Gibbons he could secure it. So when all
is said and done, it is to Gibbons and his followers, from
Timbs onwards, that we owe all that is best in carving of the
times we are discussing. These exaiuples (iMgs. 3 and 5).
contemporaneous as they certainly are, go to show that even
in the seventeenth centurv utilitarianism was l)ut a small con-
arc and the right line wliicli is not always typical of tiie work
of the eighteenth century as a whole, ['"igure g. taken, like
b'igure 1. from Cheyne Row. Chelsea. S. \\'.. is probably later;
there is a note of stint in the cornice and a barrenness of
spirit in tlie ril)becl arcliitrave that is altogether out of keep-
ing with the elal)oration of the consoles. We can imagine
that, iiowever greatly the designer may have appreciated the
individual good points (jf designs to wliicli he may have Iiad
access, his forte was not synthesis.
The examples shown in I'igures 7 and 8 have little in
common, save pcrbajjs the degree of their elaboration of
ornament Tiie d.ite of Xo. 7 is. in all probability, the early
eighteenth century: the flat pilasters and Ionic half caps, the
curiously heavy composition of the consoles, the break in
the frieze and. most of all. the deep carved moulding around
the doorwav. all tend tf) place this work in that time. Figure 8
is prol>;iblv a little later, say middle of the eighteenth century.
Flaboration is here carried to a degree almost final:
qo
THI-: GEORGJAN PERIOD.
Classicism are both alike sacrificed t(i tin
the pilasters carry nothing and the cornice loses
construction and
character.
In the example shown in Figure ii. where two doors are grouped in one design, there is room for much admiration
and some speculation. In point of date the doors show much of the spirit of the time of \\'ren : there is in the combina-
tion, however, a freedom from classic f<irm and tradition tli;it suggests an affinity to the days of one hundred vcars ago.
Pilasters are replaced by
long shallow panels,
caps are swallowed up
hv the consoles, small
pilasters are introduced
at the door-frame to sup-
])ort a fanlight suggestive
of Chip])endale, and the
masks in the centre of
each doorwav b.'ar an
a s p e c t of modernity
.\evertheless the d.sign
is striking, and, m';dern
or not, the conce])tion is
of one to whom \\"ren's
was a master mind.
I-'igure 4. on page XS,
represents a doorway later in date than the Adam period, but probably prior to the last example. The type is of
common occurrence, and if there can be ascribed to the designer no great originality of idea, yet the spirit of the late eigh-
teenth century is well expressed in the stricter Classicism and the more traditional pro])ortions. A noteworthy point is the
substitution of pillars for pilasters. There is not the dainty economy of the .\dam period, but a stolider, less susceptible
sense. In useful comparison comes Figure 2, a typical work of the .\dam brothers, for the evidence is here happily
complete. Classicism more
of it, or perhaps because of
repose befitting the time
Jhf$J iU
FlK. 9, Cheyne Row, Chelsea, S W.
Fi;:. 10. Great College Street Westminster. S. W.
against the abandonment
embellisher's o|)portunity :
c raving for simplicity —
the general over-elaboration
I'igure 10 is probably not
consoles in fact appear so
remainder of the work
that the more simple f>ver~
originally contemporaneous
Figure 6 also is modern,
example bears date 1S24,
of modernity. .\djoining.
doorways shown in Figure 4,
think that j'igure 6 is con-
lUit. on the other hand, tliis
account for an eighteenth -
teenth-century doorwav, and
of develo])ment. of ba\ing
us to regard the whole corn-
evidence, would 1824 ajjpear
attach to the origin of this
'P b e s e examples, then.
hazard, illustrate in a pre-
swing of the pendulum from
restraint to elaboration,
and eighteenth centuries, np
.\'o doubt, given time and
HilH.'RBiCC.ifcm,iiitj»J,i
Fir. 1 1. Queen's Square, W. C.
severe is unlikely, vet in spite
it, we have a dignity and
which in a sense protested
of Classic for m s to the
it was the outcome of a
product of the nausea of
and license.
a complete composition : the
entirely foreign to the
as to lead to the supposition
door they support was not
with them.
.Apart from the fact that the
there are essential evidences
as it does, a number of the
there is superficial reason to
t^'m])oraneous with the rest.
\ery adjacency is enough to
century spirit in a nine-
there is a frank appearance
"gone one better" that leads
position as late: nor. on the
to be a date unsuitable to
interesting doorwav.
chosen more or less at
liminary manner the steady
freedom to severity, from
throughout the seventeenth
to the nineteenth centurv.
opportunity for research, a
similar course of development would be traceable in the whole of the architecture of the periods under consideration. At
any rate it may l)e said, without ignoring the splendid works on the history of the English Renaissance already extant,
that when the history of the architectural detail of the past three centuries comes to be written, sympathetically and from an
impartial point of view, there \\ ill be fields for analytical criticism .-md conjecture as wide and rich, it mav be. as ever were
explored by the recorders of Classic and ]\ledia;val architecture. Owen I'le.mixg, A.R.I.B.A.
The Architecture of the Eighteenth Century in England,
ARCHITECTURE has its ironies, like any other
field of human experience — not bitter ironies, no
grim disappointments, no cruelties wrapped in
mockery, but only mild, and sometimes gracious,
developments of the wliolly unexpected; proofs, if proof
were needed, that man is no more master of his fate in archi-
tecture than in anything else.
In fact, these manifestations
show that architecture is a
bigger force than man, its
creator, and that his little
will, for all its pride of
power, is only, at its moments
of apparent production, giv-
ing a bend here and there to
the course of a resistless
river. Sometimes, indeed,
one learns the lesson that the
greatest architect is he who
helps, not hinders, the stream.
The great men are not the
men of novelty, still less are
they the men of archasologv.
.\ dash for originalitv fre-
rpicntly ends in the |)rodnc-
tion of ;in unwholesome
eddy : conversely, an effort at
conservatism leads too often
to the formation of a stag-
nant backwater.
■lWi*.«*>'
Fig. I
.\ Halu^ler Sun-hal, .Su^^ex.
Sir Christopher \\ ren. whom we may look u])f)n. in a sensr.
as the father of English eighteenth-centurv architecture, was
fully aware of these truths, and he at least was a man who
had every excuse for viewing the case otherwise. His educa-
tion, to begin with, was not architectural: his beginnings of
professional life were in spheres scientific rather than artistic.
He was tied by no traditions, and fettered bv 'no scholastic
or acadenu'c chains. He slip])e(l into architecture over the
wall, so to speak, like I-'ormalist and llypocrisv in the
"Pilgrim's I'rityrcss." .\nd if. wlien he thus came into archi-
tecture from the outside, with his open mind and vigorous
intellect, he had felt that the right way to go to work was to
start fair, free of prejudice, free of tradition, free even of the
spirit of his own age, would he not have been the very man
to show the courage of his convictions, and to embark on the
adventurous career of a new architecture? Certainly he
would: but what do we find? Instead of a gospel of freedom
and individualism, he wrote these remarkable words: —
"It is necessary for the architect in a conspicuous work
to preserve his undertaking from general censure, and so for
him to accommodate his designs to the Geist of the age he
lives in. though it appear to him less rational."
Strange words, which show the relation of an original mind
to the force of contemporary taste. Nor can it be doubted
that Wren's obedience to tlie commands of tradition was at
least as strong as his subjection to the spirit of the age.
Xow, the planting in the New World of the civilization of
the Old. which took place gradually during the seventeenth
and eighteenth centuries, was an opportunity such as man's
history has seldom known for the establishment of a new
creation in architecture. Here was a chance for the men
who sav that the vitality of architecture should be proved by
its independence of archaeology and tradition. So long as a
nation remains in its own country, and retains its accustomed
civilization, so long, they mi.ght say. there is a certain excuse
— if not a valid
reason — for the
retention of ap-
parently meaning-
less traditions of
form.
I'lUt here was a
new state of con-
ditions altogether.
.\ nation — or
rather a selection
from v a r i o u s
n a t i o n s. full of
vigorous enter-
jirise. and there-
fore presumably
full of the power
of origination and
of artistic vitalitw
has transferred it-
self to a new soil,
where it is to live
u n d e r new cli-
matic environ-
nient, and even, to
a certain exteiU.
under fresh con-
ditions of state
and society. The
apostles of the independence of architecture might reason-
ablv look for a new style under these new conditions. Hut
what is the actual result in history? Truly a wonderful
event — a strange and delightful testimony to man's hold
Fig. 2. Nunihcr <) (irosvenor Roa'l. London.
92
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
on the past, or shall wo rather say, to architecture's hold points so emancipated from the exigencies of mere construc-
upon an almost unsuspected part of human nature. The tioual fabric as to give special play to the exhibition of the
architecture of the Xew World was evidently to be not merely whims, or, to speak more truly, of the spirit of their designer.
a continuance of European tra-
dition, but. a greater marvel
still, it was to echo in a kind of
tertiary Renaissance the Classi-
cal culture which Northern
Eurojje had borrowed from
Italy and Italy had revived
from her dead Roman self. Is
this a proof of the strength of
old Rome, clamoring in its
grave for a share in the new
territory, or is it rather a sign
that man, for all his radicalism
and commercialism and "mod-
ern-side" education, has in
him, whetlier he like it or not,
whether he know it or not, a
latent fibre that must be fed
from the ancient culture of the
past? I think it is the latter.
I am far from suggesting
that the architecture of the
eighteenth century which flour-
ished in the British and Dutch
homes of the American immi-
grants is in an}- large degree
identical with the work of
Rome, or even with that of
fifteenth-century Italy: in-
deed, if it were, it would give
the lie to the undeniable law
Fig. 3, Doorway, West Wycomlje, Bucks, 1722.
Such points in a Gothic eccle-
siastical building are shrines
and tabernacles, sedilia and
font-covers, stalls, screens
and portals: in the Georgian
home these play-grounds of
free art are found in the cor-
nices, chimneypieces, porches
and similar accessories. Per-
haps the front door and the
mantel, with some special fit-
ness in each case, are the chief
means of this expression.
Rightly are they the bearers of
a special message, being, as it
were, the symbols, or, rather,
the very instruments, respect-
ively, of outward and inward
welcome.
The examples here brought
together as illustrations are a
mere random handful, taken
from a rich profusion scattered
all over England, and meant to
show how closely the things
which to-day are loved and
reverenced in the United States
are allied to those beauties of
architecture which we cherish
as having been enjoyed in this
country one hundred and two
that true architecture is always affected by geographical hundred years ago. To be sure, they are vanishing, perhaps
and ethnological conditions. more rapidly with us than they are with you, but they linger
The Georgian architecture — I use the word in its widest yet. even in certain quiet streets of London, into which one
the loosest sense — is indis-
putably genuine architecture, a
union, that i.s, of l>eauty, .\'e-
cessitv and Tradition, the first-
named resulting from the other
two. As such it is distinguish-
able at a glance, like all true
architecture, both from its fore-
runners and fro;n its ])Osterities.
Hut I do hold — this is my
point of argument — that its
tradition of form, its symbolism
and its culture are essentially
and excellently Classical.
Wherever, in this architecture,
forms can legitimately break
loose from mere construction,
wherever composition stands
free of mere necessitudinous
building, the cxijression towards
which it strains with all the
force of well-tutored simplicity
is the manifestation of the
Classical. There is here no
implication that architecture
Fig. 4, A Porch at Alton, Hams
Steps as into an atmosphere of
antiquity more insistent in its
way than that which pervades
the great cathedrals. One
feels of a Westminster Abbey
that it is in a sense no more
old than it is new — it is of all
time. A great church built of
enduring stone has about it a
quality of everlastingness,
which likens it to the earth and
sky. of who.se antiquity there
is no more consciousness than
doubt. But when, out of some
crowded thoroughfare of mod-
ern buildings, one branches into
a street lined with the compara-
tively frail homes of five or six
generations ago, one feels an
overwhelming sense of the
presence of one's forefathers.
The very fragility of these
slender pilasters and delicate
mouldings adds to the marvel
of their continuitv. Their sur-
only reaches its development when it breaks loose from vival is like the survival of a man. Besides, there is in human
liuilding as such — a doctrine which will sound hollow and nature a kind of contrariety which does not honor antiquity
untrue in the ears of all truth-lovers, but it is obvious that in the direct ratio of years. The Pantheon, even from the
in all buildings of any generosity, in whatever style, there are point of age, possesses a greater charm than the Pyramids.
THE ARCHITECTURE OE THE EIGHTEEXTH CEXTURY IX EXGLAXD.
93
But I must not write of our eighteenth century as if its
architectural work were all of the minor domestic type.
Undoubtedly there is a great architectural importance in the
simpler domestic work of the period, which, if it had no
other claim upon the attention
of the architectural historian,
might well be held up to ad-
miration for this, that it was a
style which, in spite of it orig-
inal foreign extraction, became
truly vernacular. There sub-
sisted, in those times, between
architect and workman an
understanding, w h i c h can
hardly be said to exist at the
present time. Partly, no doubt,
owing to the limited range of
design, and partly to the com-
paratively small field of an-
tiquity open to the pursuit of
the designer, it became possible
for workmen of intelligence in
various trades — but especially
in those of the joiner ar.d
mason — to have at their fin-
gers' ends a knowledge, and
an accurate knowledge, of th,'
mouldings and features of
which their architects were
making use. Nay, more, it is
the result of this intimate
knowledge on the part of the
workman that the humbler
buildings of the town and the village (which were often, no
doubt, in those days, as in our own, constructed without
the intervention of an architectural designer at all ) have
about them that inideniable stamp of correctness of design
which, whether you are pleased to call it archneological or
not, residts in something uncommonly like a display of good
taste.
The architecture of the period was not. I was beginning to
looked upon as a direct outcome of Wren's accustomed
manner, which in turn may lie termed a consequence of
Inigo Jones. In this work. too. in the monumental and
palace architecture as well as in the domestic, the study
and proficiency of the individual
workman was a large factor in
the success of the art. This
point has been well brought out
in Mr. Reginald Blomfield's
excellent work on the Renais-
sance in England, which affords
the best available summary
of the architectural facts of
the century we are discussing.
One might be tempted to say
that this period of architecture
had two sides — on the one
hand the correctness of Wren,
and on the other a Dutch im-
portation which gave character
to the humbler street architec-
ture. But we find that Wren
himself, after the accession of
William and Mary and the con-
sequent introduction of Dutch
taste, was among the first to
borrow his architecture from
Holland, and may thus be said
to be himself the father of
both aspects of eighteenth-cen-
tury British architecture. The
names of architects associated
with the early Restoration are
not conspicuous, but we might mention among them such
workers as Bell, of King's T.ynn, who executed various works
in his own neighbiirliood. including the well-known Custom-
JKiuse in his own town, .nid a picturesque church at Xorth
Fig. 5. Door-Heail. Hastirgs.
•IP'^ ^M' •
^ ^ ■ -f*^ .
■mm^^mi-
1
1
FlK. 7. Chinineypiecc: lliJltun House, Hastint'S, Sussex.
Fig. 6. Cliimneypiecc: Hiyh Wycomtx:. Bucks.
say, entirely of this minor domestic type. Side by side witli Runcton. dated 1713. that may be looked upon as a type of
the simpler house-buildings the century witnessed the those Georgian churches (sometimes rather quaint than beau-
development of a greater Classical style, which, but for tiful) which the architects of the Ciothic Revival did their best
certain lapses, one might call Palladian, and which might be to sweep from the land. The great names which succeeded
94
THE GEOKGIAX PERIOD.
Wren's arc. of course, \"anbrugh and Hawksmoor, whose which cannot be said to have any true affinity with the Amer-
works I imagine have but httle parallel in the architecture of ican "Colonial" work— but there are still two names among
America, {'.inbrugh's palaces— though his rei)Utation has the producers of what I liave styled monumental architec-
Mitterod from too ;rcncral an application of his well-known ture which deserve a passing mention, the names of Dean
Rtr. 8. Offices in High Street, Lewes, Sussex.
epitaph — must be acknowledged to be heavy buildings. The
less-known example here given (Fig. 16. Page 97) is lighter
in character than the more celebrated P)lenhcim and Castle
Howard. Hawksmoor's genius is in many ways more attrac-
tive, and certainly more inventive. His church in Spitalficlds
— the spire of which (Plate 39)
is of a most unusual type —
can certainly not be objected to
on grounds of dull formality,
nor can the familiar front of
St. Mary's Woolnoth. near the
^[ansion House, which so
nearly suffered destruction a
few years ago in the interests
of railway traffic.
Of all the stars that had
power to make their light seen
in the wake of Wren there is,
perhaps, none brighter than
James Gibbs. It was his culti-
vated genius that made itself
known in the Church of St.
Martin, in Trafalgar Square, in
the beautiful St. Mary-le Strand
(Plates 32-34). which blocks
with a gracious interference the
busy crowd in one of London's
densest thoroughfares, and also
in the Radcliffe Library (Fig.
19) — a circular building of
wholly unusual design which
occupies a quiet square in the
collegiate city of Oxford.
Gibbs had other opportunities
of conspicuous work, notably
the Senate House at Cam-
bridge, but none of his build-
ings exceed in beauty and in classic refinement the two
London churches or the Oxford Library. I have no wish to
take the reader through a list of English eighteenth-centurv
architects — some of the best-known names come indeed at
the close of the century, and, therefore, belong to a period
Fist. 10. House at Guildfonl. (Da'el731.]
Fig;, 9, The Vicarage. Lewisham.
Aldrich, of Oxford, and of John Wood, of Bath. The former
is a brilliant example of the architectural amateur. Holding
the Deanery of Christ Church, which implies not so much an
ecclesiastical appointment as the mastership of the College
of that name, Aldrich may be supposed to have had occupa-
tions enough to leave little time
for artistic hobbies. But he
was a man of unusual versatil-
it\' — not only was he a good
classic scholar, he was also a
logician, and wrote a treatise
on logic which remained for
many generations of students
the standard text-book. He
was no inconsiderable musician ;
there is at least one psalm-
chant and more than one an-
them due to his skill as a com-
poser, and with all these many
fields of energy he still found
time to handle architecture
also, both from a theoretical
and practical standpoint. His
"E I c 111 ruts of Architecture"
written in imitation of Vitru-
vius. and written in Latin, too,
is. to be sure, pretty nearly
forgotten — being rather ele-
gant than useful : but his build-
ings, chief of which is the
Church of all Saints, in High
Street, remain as enduring me-
morials of his academic power
in an art which but few ama-
teurs have successfully invaded.
It is not known to what extent
Dean .Mdrich had professional
aid in the working out of his designs, but no architect's name
has ever been connected with them and no tradition has
ever assailed his claim to at least the leading share in the
buildings with which his name is associated. I am glad to
remind .\mericans of Dean .Mdrich's claims.
THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE EIGHTEEXTH CENTURY L\ EXGLAXD.
95
John Wood was an artist before whom exceptional opjjor- magnificence and, for that matter, so good a piece of art,
tunities were spread. It is not at all clear where he learned that I have no mind to leave it out of this collection. The
his architecture, and he appears to have started lite as a .Vorthampton Church, on the other hand, is, I think, Stuart
road-surveyor in 1727. But he found himself in Bath at the rather than Georgian, but it is a rich and characteristic speci-
time when Bath was waking up to the possibility of getting men of the way in which the architects of the English Re-
itself rebuilt, and
under the patron-
age of Ralph Al-
len, an enterprising
owner of property
and, which is more
important, an
owner of quarries,
he was enabled to
put an entirely new
aspect upon an old
town. The most
conspicuous of his
works was Prior
Park, a magnificent
residence, with a
hexastyle C o r i n -
thian portico, out-
side the town ; but
his genius was more
exhaustively taxed
in the schemes for
laying out streets
and s(|uares in the
city itself. In this
work Wood (who
was practically the
pioneer in England of combined composition in street archi-
tecture) exhibited the most fertile ingenuity. His squares,
his terraces, his crescents and his circular colonnades arc
masterpieces in their way and evince a brilliant talent in
the exceptional art
Fig. II. A House in the Clo^e, Salisbury
of architecture on
a c o m p r e h ensive
scale.
But it is time to
leave the considera-
tion of the monu-
mental art of the
century and to look
to those similar
buildings which in
their, often name-
less, obscurity may
really be said to
form the backbone
of English eigh-
teenth-centurv ar-
chitecture. In pass-
ing on to them, let
me merely mention
two examples of
which illustrations
are here given.
One is the colon-
nade, or entrance screen, at Syon House on the Tlianies
(Plate 15), and the other the Church of .Ml .SaiiUs at North-
ampton (Plate 15), The colonnade is. strictly speaking, too
late for our period, belonging, as 1 suppose, to the time, if
not to the actual handiwork, of llu- Brothers Adam, but it is
SO elegant an example of the ctntury's idea of domestic
FIr. 12. Sciiool-lionse. Cranbrodk, Kent.
naissance laid Clas-
sic hands on the
hitherto Gothic do-
main of the church.
I wish in this con-
nection that I had
an illustration to
offer of the small
and interesting
church of Little
S t a n m o r e , near
Edgware. It has
an ancient Gothic
tower, but the entire
nave and chancel,
within and without,
are of the strictest
Georgian Classic.
Tradition, perhaps
falsely connects the
church and its organ
with Handel, and
the churchyard con-
tains the grave of
the supposed imper-
sonation of Han-
del's "Harmonious
Bl;icUsniith"; but be the tradition true or false, the church
in its design is a near counterpart in architecture of
that academic spirit which prevails in Handelian church
nuisic.
Midway between
the mo n u m e n t a 1
buildings of the
eighteenth centur\-
(the churches and
mansions) and the
humbler domestic
architecture stand
the town-halls of
small market cen-
tres and the nndti-
t u d i no u s alms-
houses. The town-
halls are very char-
acteristic and often
v e r y b ea u t i f u 1
examples of tiie
c e n t u r v ' s work.
Among the best of
them is that at
Abingdon (Plate
19), near O.xford,
;ui out-of-the-way
building wliicli is
sometimes :iscril)ed to no less an author than \'anl)rugh.
It is extremely graceful, and its air of rather excessive
correctness and propriety gives it just that seal of distinc-
lion whicli should differentiate the home of the commnnily
from tlie homes of its component individuals. Its cor-
rectness is icnipered, oddlv enough, by a very unusual
96
THE GEORuIAX PERIOD.
departure from Classic rule. On each of its sides the centre
is occupied by a "solid." not by a "void" — whereas the
laws of composition call for an arch in the centre — never
a pier. The Council Chamber at Chichester (Plate 19) has
the same air of solemnity without the same grace. It seems
hardlv able to accomplish its
own Palladian intentions, and
the gruesome lion which sur-
mounts its top gives a bathos
to the composition which one
would not expect. The century
is bv no means weak in carv-
ing, least of all in heraldic
carving : the stone unicorn
(Plate 17) from the Carlisle
Parade, Hastings, and the two
examples of Royal .\rms from
Cranbrook and South Molton
(Plate 17) are quite enough
to prove that the sculptors of
the Georgian period were real
masters of a conventional
school of animal carving which has seldom been surpassed.
The same excellent power is displayed in the cartouche
(Plate 17) from the South Molton town-hall (Plate 19),
doubtless an effort by the same hand that carved the Royal
Arms. The town-hall itself is a good specimen of its kind
Fig. 13. Ncwby Hall, Yorks. By Campbell. [Date, 1720.]
High Wycombe (Plate 20), if simple in its upper story, is
more ambitious in its arcade, which shows a clever arrange-
ment in the grouping of the columns, whereby the additional
stability required at the angles is obtained without solid
piers. The roof-lantern here is especially graceful, and I am
glad to be able to give a photo-
graph of it in detail (Fig. 20).
The town-halls here exempli-
fied arc but a few examples
out of a great profusion of
such buildings that are to be
found in county towns all over
the country. Not less numer-
ous and not less interesting
are the almshouses, of which
in some towns several ex-
amples are to be found. Salis-
bury, for instance, has three
or four, and many other places
can show tw'o or more. The
College of Matrons (Plate 23),
just within the precincts of the
Cathedral-close at Salisbury is, at least outwardly, a building
typical of its class — so also, in a less ambitious vein, is the
Banks Almshouse, at Maidstone (Fig. 21), which dates from
1700. The little lantern (Fig. 18), bearing date 1707, is
from a similar building — Christ's Hospital — at Abingdon,
J|
1
M
i
l^v^^^^^H
mm
ww\
^^^^H
■
Rg0«|
n
^1
1
^I^I^^Kii %' '
p
^^ IIK^^^^^^^^^H
1
W^^^m. *
.J»
''^e^m^^^^i^^^^^^^^^H
1
^L
^B^
r - J
Fig. 14. House at Brentford, Middlesex.
Fig. 15. House at Alton, Hants.
— a typical faqade with a main story of Corinthian pilasters and the courtyard view of the Tomkins .Mmshouses (Fig.
standing on a basement formed of the inevitable town-hall 22) shows a rather later building in the same town,
arcade. The pilasters and their entablature are surmounted The coaching-inns of the towns on the old highroads are
by a good pediment, and above the roof is an attractive clock- 'often of very good architecture, but few of them are so
turret with a weather-cock. The Rye town-hall (Plate 19) ambitious as the well-known "White Hart" at Salisburv.
is an example of a rather sim])ler treatment, and so is the T am fortunately able, owing to the industry of Mr. Gals-
well-proportioned building at Witney (Plate 21). Tliat at worthy Davie, whose wandering camera seems never to let a
THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY IN ENGLAND.
97
good thing pass, to give many examples of ordinary street
domestic and shop architecture. It would, I think, be unde-
sirable and unprofitable for me to attempt to allude in writ-
ing to each of these illustrations. They tell for themselves
their own tale of quiet beauty, and bear an eloquent testi-
would enter this rural parlor, no doubt, from a green lawn in
a walled orchard — and making your way to the window-seat
would find yourself looking out onto the bustling little street.
It is this happy combination of business and seclusion, of
town and country, of garden life and street life, which is the
mony to the age of cultured gentility which they reiiresent.
We may have surpassed our forefathers in some qualities of
mind and intellect, but there is, to take a single example.
a spirit of gentlemanly confidence about the really hand-
some Lewes shop-front ' (Fig. 8) which, to my mind, entices
customers quite as readily as plate-glass and stanchions can
key to th(' amenity of Georgian existence. Folk realized in
those da3's that it was alike a great convenience to live in a
street, and a great hardship to live without a garden — with
the result that their front doors were placed on the pavement
and their back doors were practically in the country. The
town nf Lewes is laid nut entirely on this principle, and the
Fiu. 17. Hampton Court Palace. Sir Christopher Wren, Architect.
d(j. The bay-window .it Rye ( I'ig. 2^) is to me a particu-
larly fascinating jjrodurt r)f the art of the period. It is not
a house window, but the window of a garden room. You
'This shop-front might be accepted as the archetype of the
"swell-front" once so familiar a feature of Roston street archi-
tecture.— Ed.
result is that it consists mainly of two p;irallel streets with
a tract of green country between them. .Xowadays the in-
creased value of land renders such an arrangement unduly
costly, and we have had to face as a result the growth of
suburbs. It was practically only in London that the suburb
took its rise as earlv as the middle of last century, and it is
98
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
fair to own that when the vahie of land began to produce this
result in our crowxk'cl capital it did not produce it in its
modern form. The villages around London which became
the rural homes of London merchants knew little of our
modern rage for purchasing a plot, planting a house at the
back of it, and devoting the rest of the site
to a serpentine carriage-drive. The man
(if the eighteenth century, in his suburb
as in his town, was content to put his door
(in the street and to use the whole of his
unoccupied land as secluded garden.
I had hoped to be able to offer a photo-
graph of a typical English street of the
eighteenth century. I should probably
have taken my exanijile from Blandford,
a little Dorsetshire town which had the
misfortune to be entirely destroyed by
fire about the year 1740. with the fortu-
nate result that, having been entirely
rebuilt at that date, most of its houses
have managed to survive to the present
(lav, thus presenting a homogeneous col-
lection of Georgian town architecture. I
have, as it happens, failed in this attempt,
but I am able to show instead a view of
Xorthbrook Street, Xewbury (Fig. 34).
which, though marred by some modern interpolations, gives
something of the eft'ect of one of these old-world thorough-
fares. Xewbury further provides a good example of an
eighteenth-century bridge (Plate 25). Great pains and no
little art were expended on bridges during this period.
They were recognized as occasions for a certain amount of
Fijj. 18. Lantern; Christ's Hospital, Abingdon,
the main entrances to the town, is a good instance of Georgian
design in this class of work.
The age was not one of great ecclesiastical fervor, the
rebuilding of the London City churches being a result rather
of the accident of the great fire than of any ecclesiological
spirit, and we must not, therefore, look for
nuich display of art in church fittings,
I)ut there are certain notable exceptions,
in metalwork, some of which was ecclesi-
astical, the century is verv strong. The
two chandeliers, Dutch in character, here
illustrated (Figs. 29, 30) are as good as
they need be and are worthy of the ex-
cellent standard which prevailed in smiths'
work generally. .\11 kinds of grilles (Fig.
35 and Plate 29), whether as chancel-
screens or entrance-gates, were carried
out during this period with noticeable skill,
and Wren himself was in this, as in other
departments of his art, the father and fore-
runner of his successors. Pulpits and
stalls were sometimes moderately well ex-
ecuted. Xot many altars date from the
century, but there is a good one at Rye. if
somewhat unusual in its design. It will
be seen that the frontal, baffled by the dis-
regard of precedent displayed by the table, has solved its
difficulty by getting inside (Fig. 32) !
Finally and fittingly let me end these examples with the
tombs (Plate 35). W'e have seen the Georgian inan in his
home — be it a palace in a park or a house in a street; we
have noted the warm welcome of his court and of his hearth;
Fig. 19. RaHcliffe Library. James Gibb>, Architect.
Fig. 20. Cupola: Town-liall, High Wycoinlie, iiucks.
architectural display, and the necessity for stout .stone-con-
structions together with the need of a balustrade has gen-
erally led to their having a certain Palladian character. The
Chester Uridge, familiar to many a newly-landed .American
tourist, which carries the high-level wall walk across one of
we have looked at his church and at his council chamber : we
have seen the inn that welcomed his prosperity, the alms-
house that sheltered his adversity ; we have passed in review
his colleges and his schools. Let us now, for an ending, fol-
low him to his grave. Even there he lies beneath the touch
THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY L\ EXCLAND.
99
of that old humanity which graced the accessories of his Hfe.
A Classic baluster (Fig. i) bore the gnomon on which the sun
marked his fleeting days, a Classic console decks the angles
of his tomb and a Classic cornice rims its heavy lid. And
if, as well might be, his virtues and the grief of his posterity
called for some record within the church's walls that should
outlast the weather beaten panels of the sepulchre outside,
there was placed in aisle or nave same graceful composi-
tion of Ionic or Corinthian forms (Fig. 36) which framed a
story of his living and dying, written as often as not in the
very tongue of ancient Rome.
Paul Wateriioi'se. F.R.I.B.A.
[Through unfamiliarity with tlio physical requirements of hook
making. Mr. Waterliousc, in his modesty, lias cut his paper short
Before providing matter enough
to "carry" the illustrations that
Accompany it. no one of which
can be spared, and obviously long
before he had said everything
about his subject he would like to
say and which we and his readers
can only regret that lie has not
said. It is, however, a matter of
gratulation that we are able to
satisfy the printer's requirements
by appending to the forcging
paper parts of an article written
upon a cognate subject by Mr.
Waterhouse and published in the
Architectural Review (London)
a year or two ago. — Kn. |
"The Palladian dictum that
the door is to be proportioned
to the magnificence of tlie
owner is one that has found
general modern acceptance,
though perhaps not exactly in
the original sense. .\ door being primarily an entrance for
men, there underlies our thought of every door the considera-
tion that its si/e has been regulated bv the human stamlard
Fig. 21. Banks Almshouse, Faith Street, Maidstone. [Date, iroo.]
need be, but that the other is the abode of a stiff-necked and
high-headed creature who adds to his own height by a silk
hat, and to his wife's by heels
and feathers. This is the
rudimentary application of the
Palladian theory removed only
one stage from the wigwam
phase of civilization when,
maybe, the chief had room lo
go into his hut on his knees,
while his subjects crawled in
like the serpent upon their —
watch-pockets. r)Ut the Pal-
ladian theory goes farther, and
takes account not merelv of
modern devices for adding a
fraction of a cul)it to man's
stature, but also of those less
measurable attributes, such as
worth and wealth, which dif-
ferentiate human beings more
surely than feet lineal. . . .
"I suppose that the humanity of doorways has never been
bitter emphasized than in the English architecture of tlie
last century. The early days of the English Renaissance
FiK.22. TomVins Almshouse. AVjington. (I^^te, i 733. j
■S'ou see a door si.x feet high in a cottage and one eigiit feet
high in a villa, and you conclude from the contrast that the
one is inhabited by a being of normal size who will stoop if
FiK.23. Bay-window, Rye, Sussex
showed, as regards external architecture.no excess of inodesty.
We may without calumny brand the sixteenth-century eleva-
tions as meretricious. With the next age came chastity.
lOO
THE GEORGIAX PERIOD.
Fig, 24. Bay-window, Saint Cross, near
"Winchester.
' Brothers 'personally, but
neighbors in time — who recog-
propriety of composition by
tion, were not the men to for-
In the bleakest specimen of
if it be of the good period,
tion — often a very hearty
theory, or tradition, that the
of the inside wliose duty it is
welcome to the passer-by, and
the hospitality within.
"The mere function of
ringing and door opening pro-
ality. The very houses where
knockers, and where the door-
tlic floor of one room Ijcforc
s a in c amenity. Shelter, or
forded as the one external
" In houses of more pre-
Inigo Jones and his Palladianism bore the mark
of comely propriety. The next age, the age of
Anne, was prim, if you like, and eminently modest
— but it was reserved for the reign of the brothers
Adam and their contemporaries to reduce eleva-
tion (or exalt it) to prudery. They at least were
no Pharisees. W'e can level against them no
taunt of whitened sepulchre nor suggestion of in-
ward uncleanness of cup and platter. Within all
was fair and rich, delicate and elaborate — but
without — what? Sometimes the grandeur, recog-
nizable, if restrained, of Fitzroy Square and Port-
land l^lace, but more often the prudent monotony
of Ilarley Street.
"I will not stay here to discuss whether it is
altogether ignoble to consider that architecture
may be composed of stock bricks and rectangular
holes. I am not sure but that there is a nobility
of asceticism here which stands on a high level;
with this, however, I will not make our concern.
I am onlv anxious now to give attention to the
fact that the men of this school, — not merely the
i
1
IP*
Fig. 26. Bull Inn, Guildford.
more than it can be drawn or de
utilitarian. The ' shell porch ' is
Fig. 25. Shop-front, High Street. Lewes, Sussex.
all parts of England is the well-known and
graceful shell. The examples ■• here given
illustrate this familiar friend beyond need
of description. A bracket on either side,
springing either from a pilaster or from a
less ambitious jamb, supports the angles
of the shelter, the mouldings of which be-
tween the supports recede in a semi-cir-
cular form. Upon the basis of the curved
plan thus formed is erected — if one may
apply such a term to vacuity — a hollow,
which takes approximately the shape of a
quarter sphere. \A'hen it is added that the
brackets carry all the foliage they can, that
the framework of the whole is composed
of the formal delicacies of a Roman
cornice, and that the hollow is imprinted
with the convolutions of a conventional
shell, all has been said by way of descrip-
tion that can be said, except by drawing.
But there is an inner sentiment in the
thing that cannot be passed over, any
scribed. In itself it is a cardinal proof that your
as arrant a piece of useless beauty as you ma
Fig. 27. Bay-window, High Street, GuiltUord.
t li e i r contemporaries and
nized the possibility, nay the
s li e e r undecorated fenestra-
get the door and its humanity.
' brick and hole ' architecture,
there is at least some recogni-
recognition — of the admirable
front door is, so to speak, a bit
to come to the front with a
to show without some touch of
giving shelter between bell-
vides an initial excuse for geni-
bells are absent and even
opener has only to step across
the visitor is let in, profess the
pretended shelter, is often af-
luxury of the house. . . .
tension, a favorite device in
Fig. 28. House at Battle, Susse-x. [Date, iroo.}
Englishman is, or at one time was, no
V lay your finger on in a long search. Its
'Plates 6, 8 and lo. Part VIII.
THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CEXTURY IX ENGLAND.
lOI
logical origin, to be sure, is the board and bracket which, in
simpler doorways, keeps the rain otY the waiting visitor. To
this simple expedient art has, bit by bit, added the luxuries
of beauty, twisting and turning first one feature and then
another, until, as result, a composition was produced whose
fair and fascinating outline
merited adoption and repeti-
tion. But in the march of
beauty, how far has the claim
of function been forgotten !
Ours is a country neither
equatorial nor windless, so
that neither sun nor rain are
vertical in their attacks. It
comes to pass, therefore, that
the man at the door, unless he
chooses carefully his hour ami
his day, will get neither shade
nor shelter from the fair white
woodwork which sits like u
smile on the face of his
friends abode. Thank
Heaven there are better things
in this life than commodity and common-sense, and thank
Heaven, too, for the ' shell porch,' which is evidence in
point. ...
" This is no historical account of doors and doorways, nor
even a logical one, else I would accuse myself of violated
;)recedence in plunging thus early into the advanced glory of
the shell. I should have
spoken earlier of what one may
call 'entablature doorways' in
general. I say entablature
doorways, not columnar door-
ways, because there are many
examples that enjoy the en-
tablature without columns,
and in the majority of cases
where a columnar treatment i'^
used pilasters are substituted
for the round pillars of stricter
architecture. . . .
" The door of the Brentford
house. ^ which boasts what one
may call the .\damite version
of the Greek Corinthian, !■;
obviously m o r e decorous
The modillions to be sure are
missed, but their absence is
more than made up for by the
brilliant chastity of the whole
composition. There is one
fault, small but awful, which a
layman's eye would perhaps
pass over — the slight excess
in the diameter innnediatcK
above the necking of the
capitals. This is no doubt a
crime rather of execution than
<if design, but it is a lamentable defect in a work oi' art wlio-^e
niceties are as delicate as the beauty of a face. . . .
" From examples of this sort, where the cohunr.s st.ind
free, it is but a step to a simpler and less functional, but
scarcely less beautiful, type, in which the cohnnns are at-
tached to the face of the wall. Here, as in an example from
Fig, 2M. Caniielabrum : Church i>l .St. Mar>', Horsmonden. Kent
FJK. 30. CaiiiictaliruMi : Xor'.hia
Dorking, utility gives way wholly to ornament. There is no
pretence of shelter; the entire composition, columns and
entablature, has become frankly a framework, and nothing
more. Were I called to choose between these two, I would
be honest, give up the choice, and clamor for compromise.
'' The next stage in the
development (if I mav con-
tinue this process of evolu-
tion, which is possibly logical,
but not necessarily historical)
is the reduction of the attached
columns to mere i)ilasters. I
confess a preference for other
types, but this is no implica-
tion that I deny the beauty of
this one.
'' Of the doorways that alto-
gether discard the column,
even in its pilaster form, there
is no lack of examples. Their
habit is to carry a more or less
projecting cornice on a corbel
or console. Sometimes these
corbels take their bed on a plain face adjoining the door-
frame, sometimes upon the frame itself — sometimes upon a
sort of parody of a pilaster. There are cases in which
cherubs form a part either of the supporting members or of
the decoration, being, no doubt, a Protestant version of the
blessing which the Roman Church invokes in the words
'Inter parities doinus Isliiis
nngici Tiii liicis inliabilcnt.'
" I will now go back to a
rich example at Groombridge
Place - — rich, not in the over-
laying of decoration, but in
the multiplicity of simple parts.
It is. in fact, not a porcii hut
.1 colonnade, or, ratlier, it is a
mixture of both. .Vrcliitects
will .-it once notice a remark-
;dile feature in the composi-
tion. The entablature is level,
w bile the balustrade rakes with
the steps, and yet two of the
cohnnns are based at the
lower and six at the higher
level. How are the propor-
tions manoeuvred? l'>riefly,
liy a disregard of the orthodox
dimensions which, oddly
enough, is in this case accept-
al)le. The taller colunms are
even ten diameters high — the
smaller just nine. It is possi-
ble that the effect from the
otUsidc, where the difference
is abetted bv tlie dimiinition
of ]ierspective. is better than
the appearance from within,
where the two would rim comiter. I cannot say. for I know
it only from photographs.
lint we have been dealing in details, and have lost sight
of the door-humanity. Where, you will ask. does the
humanity come in in the examples before us? That is more
than T can tell anv one who doesn't feel it for himself;
'See cut on pasjc K)-'
".'^ee cut on pa.ye lo.v
102
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
hut I can suggest
a point-of-vic\v from
which it will become
visible to most
people. Do y o u
notice that the
houses on w h i c h
these il o o r w a y s
grow are v e r y
largely buildings of
extreme simplicity?
They have perhaps
a bit of extrava-
gance about their
eaves-cornices, but
their walls are
mostly plain brick,
and their windows
plain o p e n i n g s
formed in the sim-
plest fashion nf
which their material
admits. Rut what
of the doorway ? Tt
could have been a
plain opening, too,
— a severe oblong,
with a square brick
arch atop and plain
brick sides. filled
w i t h the simplest
possible framing of
w o o d th;it would
keep out thieves and
weather. Had it
been so it would in
m any of the ex-
amples h a V e only
been in keeping
c o n s t r u ctionally
with the ascetic
character of the rest
of the work. Rut
wliat do we find in-
stead ? — elabora-
tion, expense, ex-
cess, affectation (if
you dare to use the
w o r d w h c n vou
should say. rather,
studied grace), and
sometimes frivolity.
'!" h e s e qualities,
what are they but
imman ? What vou
find in these doors
is no rule-of-thumb
from the polytech-
nics, no mere off-
spring of builder's
craft and borough
by-laws, but a bit of
pure human effu-
s i o n . Let us go
farther and strain a
point, for what good
^'^^^
•En^.
FlK. 32. Altar-table in North Chapel: Rye Church. Sussex.
is there in points if
you can't strain
them ? You know
what ' humanity '
meant among the
Q u a 1 1 r o centists.
To-day, at Oxford,
we keep that mean-
ing alive in giving
the name of lit era
hmnaniorcs to the
w hole wealth of
("lassie literature
a n d t h e histories
and p h i 1 o s o p hies
which it contains.
It has been well said
that the two great
discoveries of the
Renaissance were
the discovery of the
world and the dis-
c o V e r y of man.
.\nd the man whom
the men of that day
foimd was no new
m a n , but the old
.\dam of Greece
and Rome. Hu-
manity with them
was Classicism; the
humanists indeed
were students of
man, but the man-
nature they studied
w a s the man of
their own dead Italy
and the man of Hel-
las. Now for our
stretched point, if.
indeed, it can be
said to be stretched ;
the door of these
last-century houses
is certainly human
in the sense that it,
most of all features
of the house,
breathes a spirit of
Classic tradition.
W'c live among
miracles, and so rub
shoulders with the
marvellous that we
deny the wonder of
h a 1 f the portents
which lie under our
noses ; but of all the
astonishing things
that a traveller hur-
ries past as he finds
his way through
remote country vil-
lages and little
sleepy market-
towns, there is to
THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY IN ENGLAND. 103
Fig i3. Portico: " Groombridge Place," near Tunbridge-Wells, Eng
'---^^^''':;:^W^
my mind notliiiij^
so amazingly in-
credible as the
nbiquitous witness
of that fantastic
and lovable revival
which took ])laci
l)ctween the shores
of the Adriatic
and the Mediter-
ranean, four hun-
dred years ago
And in all t h i ^
nniltitude of tcsti
mony there is notli
ing that bears its
part so bravely
and so consist-
ently as the front
door of a solid,
stolid insular
Briton's house.
Here, if anywhere
on the face of a
h 0 m e . however
simple, is found
the oppor t u n i t y
for Latinism — or.
if you will, for
h u m a n ism : and
thus it CO m e >
about by a chain
of circ u m s t a n -
ces too strong to
be resisted and
almost too mar
HiK. .14. NortiittrcKjk .Street. Xf\vbur\' Berks
Fig. 35. Iron Gate, the Temple, London.
\ellous to be be-
lieved, that here
a farmer, there a
c o u n t r y doctor,
now a publican,
and now a grocer
cherishes upon the
countenance of his
simple abode (or
possibly only
tolerates, but still
m a i n t a i n s) the
faithful echo of a
,u:reat Italian cult-
ure which in itself
was the echo of
the art of two
great dead na-
tions. H o w ap-
propria tely the
butcher, the baker,
and the candle-
stick- maker of
many an unlearned
h ,-i m 1 e t ni i s b t
stand in his ])orch
in all ;i l'>riton's
pride and sav for
himself, in more
senses tli.-in he will
e \' e r imderstand
( ;ind in a language
whose V r r v sur-
vival is a proof of
my cont e n t i o n).
that world-known
'Ry permission of Mr. T. Hawkins.
104
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
saying, which an old suburban tossed across the garden-wall in one of Terence's plays, 'Homo sum htimani nihil a me
alicnum puto,' which being interpreted, in a free kind of way, runs, 'I am a man, what more do you want by way of
excuse for my pilasters and entablature. My good sir, they are but humanities.'
" Some may think that the door-designers who have been content to cling so closely to a limited range of types give
evidence of a deficient fancy, and therefore of a deficient art. We know that identification of the power to design
with a capacity for novelty and cliange. It is the very proof that the secrets of art are not the property of the multitude.
The patient iteration of acknowledged beauty, the faithful continuance of tradition, the humility which seeks rather the
production of excellence than the notoriety of novelty — all these are badges, not of mediocrity but of that gracious
continence whicii is the very mother of good art."
CHII'PEND.AI.E .S SHOP.
Admirkks of Chippen-
dale furniture may be
interested to know that
t h e curiously -carved
stone doorwa\' left tem-
porarily standing at 60
St. Martin's Lane, Char-
ing-cross (the adjoining
property having been
demolished) was once the
entrance to Chippen-
dale's workshops a n d
timber-yard. C h i p p e n-
dale's great rival, Cobb,
had workshops not far
away, at the corner of St.
Martin's Lane and what
is now Garrick Street.
WREN S LONDON HOUSE.
The dwelling of Sir
Christopher Wren is now
a national school in Bo-
tolph Lane, London.
The house still contains
a finely-carved wooden
staircase, but his private
chapel has become a
warehouse, with a win-
dow over the ceiling.
Xear by stands the
church said to have been
designed by his daughter,
and which is peculiar in
that the stone of which it
is built remains white to
some extent in spite of
all the citv smoke.
Fig. 36. Memorial Tablet ; Atheringion Cliurch.
North Devon, Eng.
A Triad of Georgian Churches in London/
"A
ST. MAk\-LE-STRA.\l).-
LTHOUGll the ])resent l)uil(liiig. of which
(iibbs was the architect, was one of the fiftv
new churches ordered to be built in certain
jiopidous localities, it represents a greater an-
for there liad been an ancient church, not e.xactlv
ame site, but at no greater distance from it. Stow
the parish church of the Xativitv of our Lady and
luiuity
on the
calls it
of the Holy Innocents of the Strand.' and further states that
it was also known to some as the church of St. Ursula, from
a brotherliood kept there.'
'Mk. Waterhoi'se's brief references in the precedin.s? paper
to the three great architects of the period. Wren, Gibbs aii<l
Hawksmoor. lead us to incorporate here the followinn; extracts
" .\earlv the whole parish belonging to this church, to-
gether with the church itself and its churchyard. Chester's
or Strand Inn and Worcester's Inn (belonging to the bishop
of that see) and the tenements annexed, were all destroyed
by the Protector Somerset, about the year 1549. and upon
the levelled ground he built his stately palace, called Somer-
set House. The parishioners, being thus deprived of their
church, had to go elsewhere, a state of affairs that lasted
until 1713. when, the neighborhood having in the meanwhile
become more populous, one of the first duties of the com-
missioners was to assign a new district, or parish, and build
a church, to be named after the old church of St. Mary.
" The site chosen was in the widest part of the Strand.
from Birch's "London Churches of the Sez'entcenth and Eight-
rrnfli Centuries." lo.ncther with their related ilkistrations. — Ed.
■Plates 32-34. Part VIII.
A TRIAD OF GEORGIAN CHURCHES IN LONDON.
105
nearly opposite Somerset House, where the maypole, and in
much earlier times a stone cross, had stood. The maypole
was moved a little farther westward, where it had but a short
existence, for it was abolished five years afterwards. Sir
Isaac Newton obtained possession of it from the inhabitants.
and it found its way to Wanstead Park', where it became the
support, or stand, for a large telescope.
" The new church, of which the foundation-stone was laid
in 1 714, vvas consecrated on January i, 1723. Like Gibbs's
work generally, it is almost pedantic in its close adherence
to the rules of Classic art, and lacks the masculine vigor of
Hawksmoor. It is a beautiful church, perhaps finer exter-
nally than internally, and its happy contiguity to Somerset
House, together with its own commanding position, render
it one of the most prominent and best seen of all the London
churches, and it would be the grossest act of vandalism to
remove it : yet, unhappily, more than one attempt to do so
has been made. In plan it is a parallelogram, some 64 feet
in length by 38 feet in width. The chancel, better developed
in this than in many contemi)orarv buildings, terminates
eastward in an apse, and is flanked on each side, north and
south, by two rather diminutive vestries. The arrangement
at the west end is peculiar, for the tower is considerablv
broader from north to south than from east to west, and
there are vestibules on each side (similar to the vestries at
the other end), in one of which is placed the staircase giving
access to the west gallery. The west door is ])receded bv a
semi-circular porch or peristyle of Ionic columns. The floor
of the church is well elevated above the street level, and a
handsome flight of stone steps leads up to it. following the
same lines as the porch.
"Externally, the church is of two orders — Ionic below
and Corinthian above. Both have their proper entablature,
the latter being finished on the north and south sides with
alternate angular and circular pediments, and with a stone
balustrade and vases, continued .ill round the building. The
spaces between the columns on the up|)er stage have well-
'^esigned and well-proportioned windows, while the lower
stage has semi-circular niches and no openings but to the
vestibules, so as to shut out the sound of the street traffic as
much as possible. The lower entablature is carried round
the porch, which is finished by rather a flat half-domed top.
carrying an urn. Originally a statue of Queen .\nne stood
on this half dome, but tlie >tatue was renuived and the urn
substituted not long after its erection. There is a tradition
that this >tatue was again set up at Queen's Gate, West-
minster, and in this new position was placed against the wall
to conceal the fact that it was unfinislied, the back being left
in the rough only. .V very sa<l accident, whicli led to fatal
results, happened in connection with this church at the
proclamation of peace by the heralds in 1802. Some people
were on the roof of the church, and leaning on the parapet,
when one of the vases gave way in conseipience of improper
dowelling, and fell on the heads of those below, killing two
outright and two others eventually succumbing to tluir
injuries. When officers were sent up to arrest him, the
author of the catastrophe was found to have fainted from
horror. The tower, which is shown so completely in the
plate that a detailed description is unnecessarv. has a verv
imposing appearance, when viewed from either the east or
the west, but the reverse when seen from tlie north or south,
as it is so much nrirrower on these sides. I'or this defect
Gibbs is scarcel' responsible, as when he designed the church
it was intendel to have a small western turret only, and a
grand monumental cohnnn. 250 feet high, surmoinited with
a statue of Queen .\nne. was to have been erected some 80
feet in front. The stone was actually obtained for this, but
the queen died, and the commissioners fell back upon a
design for a steeple to the church and, although the building
had already advanced some 20 feet out of the ground, Gibbs
had to work his existing walls in so as to carrv the steeple.
" Considering the richness of the architecture employed
externally, the interior is disappointing. The main ceiling
is an ellipse, and is covered with small panels or coffers,
groined over the windows, while the chancel ceiling, which
is lower, is a semi-circle in section. The double order is
also used internally, for the walls are in two divisions, and
Corinthian pilasters, with Composite ones above, divide the
church into bays, the lower parts of which are left blank,
while the windows occupy the higher. The design to the
entrance of the chancel is pleasing; it has coupled columns
sui)porting a jjediment. with the royal arms. The interior
has been rearranged, the hi.gh pewing lowered, and the
])ulpit, originally placed in front of the chancel arch, moved
to one side. Gibbs's estimate for this church was $8,997,
hut the total cost amounted to £16,341 is 2d.''
CHRIST CnURlll. Sl'ITALFIELDS.
[I7I5]
" TitERE had been in old times a small church and hospi-
tal in this locality, which had given the name to the adjacent
fields, but it had long fallen to decay, and the fields were
built over when, in 1715, the first stone of this fine church
was laid, Nicholas Hawksmoor being the architect.
'' Both for its plan and its architecture the church ^ is
unique. It is unlike any building of Wren's, although from
Hawksmoor's association with him, one would have looked
for some similarity, such as usually exists between the works
of master and pupil. The chief peculiarity in the plan is the
amount of space devoted to vestibules, lobbies, staircases
and vestries, and the unusual distribution of the columns,
tor, although possessing nave and aisles, the colonnades
dividing these are not treated continuously, either as regards
the shape of the columns or the spaces, both the east and
west bavs being much the narrower. Two piers are intro-
duced on each side to vary the monotony of the single
columns. These piers have pilasters attached to the north
;ind south sides, their use not being very apparent, as they
carrv nothing bevond a smaller pilaster on the side of the
nave; this runs up to the flat ceiling, which, owing to its
arrangement of panels, does not need support. The columns
are of the Composite order, on high bases, carrying an en-
tablature at right angles to the walls, a fashion introduced
by Wren at St. James's Piccadilly, but which is more pleas-
ingly carried out here by his pupil. From these entablatures
spring the arches, which have squared coffered sol'fites: the
archeil ceilings of the aisles, which follow the same curve,
;ire divided into hexagonal ])anels, with circular tlowers in
each, an arrangement which gives to the arcade a deeply
recessed a])pearance, and is certainly a very pl(;asing feature.
The arcade has boldly moulded key-stones, and a moulded
cornice, above which is the clerestory. The ceiling is very
sim|)le. being divided centrally into seven large [)anels. with
smaller ones on each side. se])arated by flat bands of orna-
ment, while circular flowers decorate the centre of each.
The galleries, with the exception of the west one. have been
removed, and this necessarily gives an unmeaning look
to the double tier of side windows — a bad effect nutch
'Plates 37, 38, Part VIII.
io6
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
minimized by the upper range being circular. The most
extraordinary departure from precedent consists in continuing
the colonnade across the east and west ends, that at the west
being broken in the centre by the introduction of the organ,
while at the east end the entablature is carried across, and
this screen of colunms produces an effect which can only )x'
described as ' scenic." riie chancel, behind this screen, is
divided into two portions, the first of which has curved sides,
narrowing it to a square recess, and all this part of the
church, which should be the richest, is perfectly plain, with a
flat plaster ceiling. The east window is of the X'enetian
tvpe. and above this there is a semi-circular one. Internally
the church was much altered many years ago, when the seats
were lowered, and the galleries removed by the late Ewan
Christian, and although it can be rarely said with regard to
churches of this type that the removal of the galleries is an
improvement, in this case it certainly was so. The old
pulpit remains, but has been lowered, and the sounding-
board is now suspended : but old brass branches have been
utilized for gas-iights. Externally, the same extraordinary
departure from all recognized rules makes this church very
difficult to describe. The curious portico with its arched
top, the extra width given to the east and west sides of the
tower, which are prolonged so as to stand in advance of
the side walls, and are brought back again to a square belfry-
stage bv inverted plain curved trusses, and the small arcaded
stage sup])orting the octagonal s])ire, almost Norman in out-
line, are features which, combined, cause Christ Church,
Spitalfields. to stand alone as a moiniment of architectural
eccentricitv : it is, after all. an eccentricity which pleases.
The estimate for this church was £13,570, but the actual
cost was £19,418 3i. 6d."
CHRIST CHURCH, NEWGATE STREET.
[1686-7.]
■' This church, the tower and spire of which is so con-
spicuous an object on the left-hand side of Newgate Street,
is one of Wren's largest, but unfortunately not one of his
finest. It occupies the site of tlie old Franciscan Friary
Church, being built on tlie clioir of that stately and niagnifi-
cent edifice, which perished in the fire. The old church was
usually known as the Greyfriars, and was the largest of the
churches belonging to the mendicant orders, being over
300 feet in length. . . .
■■ After the fire, in which it was totally destroyed, Wren
built the present church on the choir only of the ancient
edifice, while the space where the nave stood was left as a
churchyard. He built his columns and walls on the actual
site of the older ones, and the proportions which suited the
former fabric so well are not very happy in this. . . .
" The interior of this large and spacious church cannot be
considered one of the happiest of \\' ten's efiforts. but exter-
nally it possesses a beautiful tower, which, although shorn of
its upper range of vases, the loss of which gives a pagoda-
like appearance to it, is still a very fine one. It is much to
be regretted that these vases cannot be replaced, as they
greatly heli)cd the pyramidal effect. It is said that they had
become dangerous, and were removed in consequence. The
church was not rebuilt until 1686-87. so that the parishioners
had been without a church for over twenty vears, during
which time provision for divine worship seems to have been
made by building a tabernacle among the ruins; interment
still went on in the pavement of the present church, which is
the ancient one. dated during this period.''
.\e«Kaie Prison — 'Olf! Bailey." London.' [Date, 1770.] George Dance. Jr.. Architect.
'As Newgate Prison is just ;iround the corner from Christ Churcli, as Dance was one of the noted architects of the time and as
the structure itself is now vacant and on the point of being pulled down, we introduce here an illustration reproduced from a recent
issue of the Builder. — Ed.
Georgian Architecture in Dublin."
HE Four Georges have often been ridiculed and men of parts and enlightened views, they did not set about
maligned, but I do not propose, in this paper, to act their work in any mean spirit. They did not enter upon their
task by reforming the old city, but devoted their energies to
making what was in reality a new city, trusting that the old
town would by this means be relieved of its congestion and.
by force of example, gradually fall into line with its new
rival. How gloriously all this went on for a number of years
and how it ended is now a matter of history which it is not
my intention to go into: my province is to call attention to
the glorious centre of work in this city which we, as archi-
tects, cannot fail to admire, and be thankful that such men
lived and used their opportunity to adorn our city with beauti-
T
I as their defender or accuser. I have a simple and
^ pleasing duty to perform, which is, to use their name
and apply it to a period of architectural growth in Dublin
which raised it from architectural poverty to comparative
affluence in the art-world. Dublin before the advent of the
Georges was, so far as its buildings were concerned, a dead
city and also a small city. In the year 1644 its population
is given as X,i59, in 1777 as 137,208. in 1S03 as 169,528.
Although these figures are not altogether reliable, as they do
not include nnv but adults, vet thev are suflficientlv so to
Custom house. Dublin.-' [ i :.S| ) Jan.cs ( i.itiii
show that the growth of the city was remarkable daring the
period, and show that it was indeed a golden age. Previous
to this perio<l many of its citizens had made their mark in
history, but the city as a city was still in the mediaeval state,
with narrow streets and a congested population, huddled
together more for protection than comfort; but under the
(Jeorgian regime it blossomed into a truly metro|)olitan city.
with wide streets and noble buildings, and became the ]n\(n
around which gathered a larger jiercentage of brilliant men
than in any citv of its size at the time. .\nd as thev were
ful and enduring buildings that excite our admiration and are
ti) us at once an ever-open book of instruction and a lasting
memorial to their skill. It is true that this architectural out-
burst was not peculiar to Dublin, but it is .ilso true that few
cities can show as a result of such arciiitectural renascence
SI) manv ])iiblic and private buildings of such excellent taste
;nid refinement.
The striking feature of Dublin is its wide line of streets
and si|uares ;ind the effect of its public buildings, so judi-
ciously placed. The lines from College Green to Rutland
'Mr. T. E. Hiidnian has been good enough to write out for us
the address made by him in Ucceniber, 1900, before tlie Arciii-
tectural .Association of London, and has also provided more illus-
trations that we can use, some tlie product of Iiis own camera anil
others procured from W'm. Lawrence & Son, of Dublin.
"Tlie ori.cinal cost of tliis building was about £560,000.
io8
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
Square would be hard to beat, not to mention Merrion Square,
Fitzwilliam Square and St, Stephen's Green with their sur-
rounding network of streets. The line of quays starting
from the Custom-house and finishing with the Phoenix Park
was a magnificent conception. Unfortunately, the controlling
influence over some of the buildings "en route" appears to
have been relaxed, and the decadent period set in before the
Bridge to the Castle of Dublin, to meet at such places as
they think fit," and they were empowered to make a
passage through such ground and to have the houses built
on each side of the new street in whatever manner they
should deem most eligible ; they were further empowered to
agree for the purchase of such ground with all the parties
concerned, and, in case any refused to sell or show their title,
Weaver Square, Dublin: Early Georgian.
Early Georgian Houses in Chamber Street,'
scheme was completed; but even now. under certain condi-
tions of sky and atmosphere, the view, looking westward,
from Carlisle Bridge is superb, both for color and archi-
tectural effect.
The building of the Custom-house aided another fine effort
in street-planning, by the formation of (iardiner Street,
Mountjoy Square. Xorth Great George's Street, Great Den-
mark Street, round about St. George's Church, and Kccles
Street,
.\nother stroke of genius in city-planning was the idea of
the Circular Roads, North and South, by means of which the
canals from the interior of the country were brought to en-
circle the city and terminate at the mouth of the river in
shipping-docks, and on each side of these canals were made
wide roads, lined with rows of trees, thus forming a wide
boulevard of about nine miles' circumference round the citv,
along which were built numerous fine houses ; and although
cilice then there have been numerous encroachments which
injure this ideal thoroughfare, it still affords a pleasant
promenade and has great artistic merits which remind one of
Holland,
.•Ml this excellent work was due to the appointment of a
Commission called the "Wide Streets Commission," which
was originally called into being for the purpose of making a
better means of communication from the Castle to the river,
and so Parliament Street came into being. It was a small
effort and its importance can hardlv be judged at this period,
as we have only very meagre descriptions of the congested
and inconvenient district around the Castle, but this Parlia-
ment Street evidently opened their eyes and led to the widen-
ing of Dame Street and the setting back of several of tlie
houses in College Green, and ultimately tn all the other lines
of streets and squares.
This Commission was appointed by act of Parliament in
1757, and the act states its powers thus: "To open an avenue
from His Majesty's Royal Palace to Essex Bridge," and
certain persons were appointed by name to act as "Commis-
sioners to make a wide and convenient street from Essex
then to summon a jury to inquire into the value, and assess
the purchase money, for which the Commissioners were to
give judgment conclusive, and, on paying the sum awarded,
the premises were to be conveyed to them to build the street
and sell and demise the surplus.
By subsequent act the Commissioners' powers were en-
larged to other great plans of public utility. The funds by
which the Commissioners were enabled to carry on their
works were obtained by grants of money from Parliament
and the imposition of a tax of one shilling per ton upon all
coal imported into Dublin, and also a sum for card-license
and membership of all clubs.
When the Commissioners proceeded to exercise their powers
they met with considerable opposition, as it is an Irishman's
privilege to be "agin the Government," so it is recorded that
" when the bargains for the Houses were concluded the in-
" habitants refused to quit the premises, alleging they had
" si.x months to remain, and prepared bills of injunction
" against the Commissioners. A host of slaters and laborers
" with ladders was secretly prepared on the night before the
" day on which the injunctions were to be filed, who pro-
" ceeded in the first light of the morning to strip the roofs,
" and in a short time left the houses open to the sky. The
" terrified inhabitants bolted from their beds into the streets,
" under an impression that the city was attacked, of which
" there was some rumor, as it was a time of war. On learning
" the cause, they changed their bills of injunction into bills of
" indictment,'" which apparently were of no eft'ect. for the
record continues, "but the Commissioners proceeded without
" further impediment." As far as I can find out. the works
carried out by these Commissioners amounted to over £750.-
000, and if to this we add the cost of the quay walls (which
were the work of the Port and Dock Boards), the Circular
Roads and the various buildings, public and private, there is
no doubt that many million pounds of money were spent in
building- work during the fifty or sixty years of activity, and
it is little wonder if Dublin assumed a prosperous air and ap-
peared, as it was in reality, a metropolis. It is interesting to
'The brick fronts are now coated with plaster, pebble-dashed, the plastering being now more or less in disrepair.
GEORGIAX ARCHITECTURE Z.V DUBLIN.
loq
note that in spite of the great changes and improvements buildings; a purely brick style, with gables of brick and
taking place in what may be called the new. or outer, Dublin lirick strings, and. later the introduction of stone strings
of that day. how little the old city changed, and so remains and blocking-courses. In Sweeney's Lane there exists a
to this day. It is still the most wretched and congested part group of three houses the date of which is carved in
of the city, and neglect and decay are the only agents at a brick panel on the gable as 1721, which, although in a
work removing the old houses. In a few years there will be dilapidated condition, is one of our best examples of the
Weaver Hall in the Coomfje.i
Houses in Sweeney's Lane.^
left few, if any. of the picturesque old houses, which are so
agreeable to behold, mainly for the artistic pleasure thev give.
The efforts of the Government of that day did not end
with simply widening streets. Philanthropy had its share
of their patronage. They supported private benevolence in
founding hospitals and other similar institutions, and nianv
of these hospitals, as Sir Patrick Dunn's. Mercers', the Ro-
tunda and the Coombc remain practicallv the same to this
day ; others have been removed to other sites, but still we
must credit the Georgian period with the founding of nearly
all our charitable institutions.
As for the architecture of the period, there is ,1 noticeable
earlier style, and its moulded brick courses can still be ciearlv
traced. In Chambers Street and Weavers' Square and
several other streets there are still many of these earlier
houses, but the mnnlilings have gone, and only the lines
remain.
In the Weavers' Hall, in the Coombe House, in Ward's
Hill and the old Deanery, we have examples of the begin-
ning of the later types, with the introduction of the stone
blocking-courses and moulded stone window-sills, and in
these houses we find greater attention paid to the hall and
>taircase : the walls are panelled in wood, the staircase is
w ider. the l)alusters are more elaborate and better turned, the
The Rotunda Bospital.- ^1751.]
change in treatment from the earlier Georgian to the middle
and later period. I might almost .say that the advent of tlie
"Wide Street Commissioner" was the starting-ixiint for
reverting to the Italian and Classic methods. Previous to
this there is a strongly marked Dutch feeling about all the
'The original cornice and pediment has been replaced by a brick
parapet. The central niche contains a statue of George II.
'See also Plate 42, Part V'lII. This view shows not only the
main building designed by Cassels. but also the Rntiinda itself dc-
Kin^'s Inns. [1776.] James Gantlun. Architect.
cartouche brackets arc frecpiently carved, newel-posts dis-
appear, and we have continuous handrails with large scroll-
endings ,01(1 curtail-steps. I'ireplaces receive more attention,
and in every detail it is evident that money was becoming
more plentiful, bringing with it the usual results.
signed by Ensor, originally built for and still used as an assembly-
hall and concert-room to increase the revenues of the Hospital.
"These houses, of the early Georgian Period, bear in the gable
the date 1721.
110
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
One of the causes of decay in these earher houses is the
defective make of the bricks of which they were built. I
don't know where they were made, as I can find in old his-
tories no mention of Dublin brick-fields, but I know that the
stock bricks of which ^lerrion Square and many other like
houses are built were made from clay taken from the fields of
Merrion : there were also brick-fields near Sutton, and. judg-
ing from some bricks which I have seen, and which were
known to have been made there, I should say that the facing-
bricks of the earlier houses came from them. The few-
moulded bricks used were. I think, imported, as those exist-
ing bear evidence of being made of a more sandy clay than
we have in Ireland.
The great charm of the earlier work is its simplicity, and
even now. in its pictures(|ue state of old age and decay, it
Library and Picture Gallery. Tyrone House, for the Earl
of Tyrone, in Marlborough Street, is another of his works:
it is now in use as the Central National School of Dublin.
Several Houses in Henrietta Street are also of his design.
Thomas Cooley was in his early youth a carpenter, but by
study he became proficient in design, and, entering the com-
petition, he was awarded first premium for the new Royal
lixchange,- Dublin (now the City Hall). His other important
works are Tower Armagh Cathedral, Newgate Prison, Dub-
lin, and several other prisons and court-houses and the Four
Courts, Dublin.
James Gandon first Ijegan liis architectural career as an
assistant to Sir William Chambers, and afterwards became his
pupil. He commenced practice in London, and his first es-
say in Dublin was in the competition for the Royal Exchange,
The Four Courts, Dublin, Ireland.' Thomas Cooley, Architect. [1776-86.]
still has valuable lessons for the architectural student who
cares to study them.
But in the middle and later period we find a totally dif-
ferent type of work: ambition to excel is the key-note. The
public buildings are ambitious, without doubt, but fortunately
the men who designed them were capable, and the result
is satisfactory. The group of architects, or, rather, the best
of them, who practised in Dublin deserve to be known, and
I give their names: J. Smith, Cassels, Thomas Cooley,
James Gandon, Sir William Chambers, Sproule. Ensor, F.
Johnston, Wilkins, Murray.
Cassels was a German. His greatest work in Dublin w'as
Leicester House, built for the Duke of Leicester. It is now
the headquarters of the Royal Dublin .Society, and is the
centre of a grouj) of buildings forming the National Museum
in which he was placed second to Cooley. .Vftcrwards he
came to Dublin and was connnissioned to design the Custom-
house. L^pon the death of Cooley, he finished the Four
Courts and he also designed the original Carlisle Bridge, the
King's Inns and a portion of the Bank of Ireland. He was
a cultured man and a very capable etcher. He cvidentlv
modelled his work upon that of his master. Sir William
Chambers, whose work his much resembles in its graceful-
ness and pleasant grouping. He was a man of passionate
impulse, and it is recorded of him that during a ])eriod of
absence a portion of the Custom-house had been erected that
did not please him, so he collected a body of laborers and
marched them to the work in the early morning and pulled
the offending work down before the contractors' men arrived.
Sir William Chambers designed the greater part of Trinity
'This building was designed by Thomas Cooley but was finished
by James Gandon. The central portion was intended to set back,
but lack of space forced it forward, to the injury of the effect of
the group.
"This building (Plate 48). now the City-hall, but originally the
Exchange, erected in 1796 by a company of merchants, was won
in competition by Thomas Cooley and formed his introduction to
Dulilin practice.
GEOKGIAX ARCHITECTURE IX DUBLIN.
Ill
College, Charleniont House (now the Register Office), Aid-
borough House (now the Army Service Stores), and several
other residences. It is not certain if Sir William Chambers
ever was in Dublin, and it is believed that the supervision
of his work was entrusted to some of his best pupils, as two
of them remained here and practised as architects. Sproule
was one of them. His principal work consisted of at least
half of the houses in Merrion Square.
Francis Johnston was born in Ireland and began prac-
tice in Armagh in 1786, afterwards practising in Dublin. He
was a man of great skill and refinement and designed the
Castle Chapel. St. George's Church, the General Post-office
and part of the Bank of Ireland. He bought the ground
upon which the Royal Hibernian .\cadeniy of Arts stands,
erected the present building and picture-galleries and partly
endowed it at a total cost to himself of £14,000.
Wilkins was a graduate of Cambridge University and was
introduced to Dublin as the architect for the Xelson Monu-
ment in Sackville Street.
Murrav was a Dublin man and liis unly known puljlic
l)uilding is the College of .'^urgeons^ in St. Stephen's Green.
The blacksmiths of the period were excellent craftsmen,
and around many of the private houses of the time there
still exist some charming lamp-irons, both standard and
arched, and also square pedestals of iron with scroll fillings
at the ends and corners of the forecourt railings.'
The general character of the private houses was that of a
brick box, with square holes for windows. The quaintness of
the early period seems to have been ignored, and architect-
ural effort is exhausted in the entrance, which has all the
character of the period. Internally the houses arc remark-
able for the elegance and refinement of their detail. Some
wise and knowing men imported from Italy a band of clever
workmen who were also artists : these men embellished the
ceilings of hundreds of houses with the most delightful de-
signs in plaster work, most of it modelled in situ; but it is
only in a few that it remains to-day, showing its delicate
modelling still unclogged by the distemper of the inevitable
whitewasher. These men were very cunning in the design-
ing and working of marble chimneypieces and in the in-
laying of them with colored marbles: one of llio band,
named "Bossi," was especially so, and. as the secret of his
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OM Parliament House, now Bank of Ireland .-
It is curious to note tiial ino>t of tlu- public buildings
erected by architects who received their early training in
Kngland have their dressed stonework executed in Portland-
stone— an excellent white freestone from the Portland stone-
(|uarries in the south of England, — to the exclusion of the
splendid materials which are to be had in the neighborhond
of Dublin. 1 mean the granite of the Dublin hills and the
blue limestone obtainable in the north of tlie County.
Probably, until the advent of these architects, stone-masons
were neither plentiful nor skilful, and therefore builders had
to import men from England who w(nil<l only be accustomed
to the softer building-stones in use there and could not work
the harder granite and the still harder blue limestone. But
finally, during the later (ieorgian period, we find granite
freely used for columns and capitals and moulded work of the
finest kind.
'This bi-ildiuK' (Plate -I4) was designer! liy .Murray, whose son
and granilsnii— the l.itter still living— have practised architecture
in Dublin.
The Old Parliament House, now the Bank of Ireland, was
erected at three ditferent epochs ; tlir central portion, attributeil
to Tassel Init real :uithor iniknown. w.is built first. The portico
work died with him, anyone possessing a mantelpiece of
his work has a work of art which can be sold at any time
for several hundreds of pounds, so nutcli prized are they.
I am sorry to say that the monetary needs of many of the
property-owners of Dublin and also their apathy in matters
of art has led many of them to denude their houses of many
of these art-trea.sures and .sell them to the many eager
buyers from other countries. P.ut 1 am glad to notice that
the Govermnent have intervened in several instances and
purchased them for the National Museum, .so that although
they do not adorn their original positions they remain with
us, and can be admired and studied.
The joinerv of these houses is also of excellent work-
manship: its design is "on all fours with" the work of the
period, the mouldings have numerous small members, and in
the best houses all the principal doors are of mahogany, a
on the right was the entrance to the House of Lords and that
liortion of the buiUling was designed 1)y Gandon. I'he remainder
(if the building, by Johnston, the architect of the General Post
office, was built after the Union. I'olcy's statue of Grattan in
front faces Trinitv College.
'Plates 4.:; and \7. Part VIII.
112
THE GEORGIAN PERIOD.
wood which at that period was new, very expensive, and
consequently just the material for the ostentatious display
of wealth.
In looking over some of the old Dublin newspapers of
the period, one comes across some curious and interesting
paragraphs, as, for example, the following advertisement in
the Dublin Chronicle. 1787: —
CURIOUS LOCKS. PATENT WATER-CLOSETS. ETC., AT .\0. 62
CAPEL STREET. DUBLIN.
Robert Mallet respectively acquaints the Nobility, Gentry
and .Airchitects and others that he is the only manufac-
turer in this Kingdom of the following articles, viz, i.
Patent locks for doors, cabinets, etc., on a principle en-
tirely new without wlieels or wards and so perfectly
secure as to defy the utmost efforts of art and ingenuity
to open them. II, PateiU water-closets whicli act with
valves and may be fixed in bedrooms, drcssmg-rooins, or
any otiicr part of the house without being in the least
incommodious or offensive. III. Sundry hydrostatical
luachines for raising water from any depth and carrying
it to any given height to supply houses, extinguish fires,
etc., also a fliglit machine for escaping from fire from a
window or wall or any height; any number of persons
may descend in the securest manner by the same ma-
chine.
We of the present day are very well accustomed to strikes
and combinations of workmen, but from the following ex-
tract from the Dtiblin Chronicle of 1787 it would appear to
be nothing new : —
"Our working artisans, too much prone to combination and out-
rage, have uniformly set their faces against every improvement
or extension of their respective branches. At present the calico-
printers without a shadow of reason or justice are proceeding to
the most unwarrantable lengths. The cause which tlicy assign for
their illegal conduct is an aggravation of their guilt.
"They allege that it is contrary to the established rules of their
business to increase the number of hands and therefore will not
permit a single apprentice to be taken beyond the number they
think proper,"
and later the same paper says : —
"There arc at this time thirteen houses in tliis city where the
workmg people of the different branches asseml)le at different
stated periods, in order to support the pernicious cause of com-
bination. It would perhaps be a very judicious and prudent
measure to withdraw the license for selling malt and spirituous
liquors from every publican against whom it could be proved that
he or she harboured such dlegal meetings, or, as they are termed,
committees, in his or her place. These men who are chosen by
the aggregate body of the working people of each branch are
for the most part artful and designing fellows who levy contribu
tion on the rest and live in a state of idleness and dissipation
themselves. Then to promote a spirit of combination and to enjov
the plunder of the deluded persons whom they both dupe of their
money and lead into acts highly injurious to themselves and the
trading interests of the Kingdom. . . ."
These extracts show that even at that time there was the
same kind of strife going on between capital and labor as in
the present day, but it also shows that there must have been
considerable commercial activity, since, as we know in our
time, it is in times of trade activity that we suffer most from
these disturbances
It is a fact that the master-ininds in control at this period
were very active in promoting every possible enterprise that
would advance the trade and commerce of the country, and
inducements were held out to induce skilled workmen to
migrate to Dublin, to work and instruct the people in various
new trades and industries, and prizes were frequently offered
for designs in textile fabrics. So for many years there was
great prosperity, and, as appears by the trade reports of the
time, there was a steadily growing business in exporting
manufactured goods: even to this day the old silver-plate
manufactured in Dublin during the Georgian period is eagerly
sought after by collectors and museums, and frequently real-
izes as much as forty shillings per ounce.
.Mtogether, Dubliners can look back with pride to the
(Georgian period. Its governors managed their business so
well that they created a new and truly metropolitan city
which attracted to its centre a brilliant crowd of the most
clever men in the Kingdoin. who were satisfied to remain here
and work for its good, and the citizens of Dublin of that
day could say, as did the men of an older city, that they were
citizens of "no mean city."
Thomas E. Hudmax, M.R.I. I.
Mr. Hudman also fumi.;nes the following notes reiatipK to some of the build-
ings not soecifically mentione'l m the toregoing paper — Kn
Casino at Clontark CPlate 42). — This little building, de-
signed by Sir William Chambers, stands in the grounds of Lord
Charlemont's place, Clontarf. It is extremely fine in detail, but
has been allowed to fall intd disrepair. I.nrd rharleninnt's house
is now used as a conveiu.
Blck-coat School, 177,^ (Plate 44). — riii> liuiidmg has never
been finished, as the guardians were extravagant and squan-
dered their funds. Efforts are now being made to have the tower
finished under the charge of Sir Thomas Drew after the original
drawings.
View from Cork Hill (Plate 46).— In the background rises
the "Bedford Tower" in the Upper Castle Yard; on the left is a
portion of the City-hall, while at the right is Lord Essex's house,
now used as municipal offices and still containing some fine plas
ter-work and handsome mahogany doors.
n
The Georgian Period^
JVlea^urea Drawing J*
59
of
BY
FRANK E. WALLIS DAVID A. GREGG
CLAUDE FAYETTE BRAGDON E. ELDON DEANE PIERRE G. GULBRANSON
GEORGE C. TOLMAN WALTER CAMPBELL JOHN C. HALDEN
GEORGE CLARENCE GARDNER GLENN BROWN
AND OTHERS
AMERICAN ARCHITECT
<r
BUILDING NEWU"
CO.
1898
Copyright, 1S9S, iiv the
AmF.UICAN AKCHITEf T AND llUlI.DING NEWS Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I.
2.
" 3-
4-
" 5-
6.
" 7-
8.
" 9-
lO.
II.
12.
" 13-
" H-
" 15-
1 6.
" 17.
" 18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
" 23.
" 24.
•' 25.
26.
27.
" 28.
29.
" 30-
" 31-
" 32.
" 33-
Front Porch of the Culver Homestead, Brighton, Monroe Co., N. Y.,
{Gelatine Pmnt).
Royall Mansion, Medford, Mass. Date 1737.
South and West Elevations.
Details of East Elevation.
Details of West Elevation.
" " " " Front Doorway.
Pulpit in the Old Meeting House, Sandown, N. H. Date 1774.
Entrance to " " " " " " " "
Details from Gadsby's Tavern, Alexandria, Va. Date 1793.
Details from the Cathcart [now Blackford] House, Fairfax, Co., Ya.
Date 1800-10.
Yan Rensselaer Manor House, Albany, N. Y. Date 1790.
Doorway of the Old Custom House, Portsmouth, N. H.
Mantel in the Forrester House, Salem, Mass. Date 1780.
Mantel in the Working Woman's Bureau, Salem, Mass. Date iSoo.
King's Chapel, Boston, Mass. Date 1749. Details of Pulpit.
Miscellaneous Details.
Bay of Nave.
Pulpit and Reading-Desk.
Seventh-Day Baptist Church, Newport, R. I. Pulpit and Details.
Date 1729.
Porter House, Hadley, Mass. Date 17 13. — Josiah Dwight House,
Springfield, Mass. Date 1764.
Details of the Porter House, Hadley, Mass. Date 17 13.
Hazard House, Newport, R. I. Front D>)or and Details. Date (about)
1 740.
Hazard House, Newport, R. I. Details in the Parlor.
Fairbanks House, Dedham, Mass. Date 1636.
" " " " Details and Furniture.
Staircase in the Lee House, Marblehead, Mass.
Seton House, E Street, Washington, D. C. Date 1S21.
Details.
Old Piano. Date 1775.
Old Furniture.
Mantel in the Hargous House, Pittsford, N. Y. ; Mantel in the Ayrault
House, Gencseo, N. Y.
Office of the Holland Purchase, Batavia, N. Y. Date 1798. Entrance
to Cory House, Batavia, N. Y.
The Georgian Period
jVIea^urea Drawingj*
of
C O L O yN 1 A L
WORK
ILLUSTRATIONS
BY
DAVID A. GREGG E. ELDON DEANE
WALTER CAMPBELL JOHN C. HALDEN JAMES ROSS FRANCIS S. SWALES
W. ALEXANDER J. F. CULVERWELL C. R. McNEIL
AND OTHERS
^
'■^.
■^.
PART
II
^"B-^^ ^^
fa
AMERICAN ARCHIXECT
<r
BUILDING NEWJ"
CO.
Copyright. 1898, by thi-:
American Architect and Building Xews Co
ARKHILL 4. CO., (OSTON, U. 5. A.
PRINTERS
ate
1
2
3.
4,
5.
6,
7.
8.
9
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Jonathan Childs House, Rochester, N. Y. Detail of Cornice. Date
1800. [(rdatinc Print.]
Isaac Hills House, Rochester, N. Y. Porch and Details. Date
1820-4.
Entrance and Details.
I " " " " '* Dining-room Mantel.
( Mumford House, " " Bedroom Mantels.
Bicknell House, " " Parlor and Kitchen Mantels.
Jonathan Childs House, " " Side Porch.
[(iclatinc Priiil.]
Thompson House, Charlestown, Mass. Doorway. Date (about) 1800.
Parlor Mantel.
Arnold Homestead, " " Doorway. Date 1814.
10. Tower and Doorway of North Church [Date 1815], and Tower of First
Church, New Haven, Conn.
11. Williams [L.overing?] House, 1234 Washington St., Boston. Front
Porch. Date 1808.
[(nialiiic Print.]
12. WilHams House, 1234 Washington St., Boston. Details of Front Porch.
[On the site of the "("ireen Stores" of Revohilicmary clays]
13. Williams House, 1234 Washington St., Boston. Side-door.
14. " " '* " " " Parlor Details.
15. " " " " " " Stair-landing Window.
16. " " " " " " Miscellaneous Details.
17. " " " " " " Wooden Cornices.
18. Isaac Cook House, Brookline, Mass. Date 1798. Mantel.
[Cclatinc Print.]
[Xiiw iiecui)ieil by James I.. Little, Ksq.]
19. Christ Church, Alexandria, Va. Date 1767.
[The eliiireh in wliicli deorg^- Washiiii^tmi worshipiied.]
20. Christ Church, Alexandria, Va. Window Detail.
21. " " " " Pulpit.
22. " " " " Pulpit Details.
23. Isaac Cook House, Brookline, Mass. Dale 1798. Library Door.
[(j'elatiitc Print.]
24. Philipse Manor-house, Yonkers,N.Y. East Front, etc. Date 1683-1745.
[The southern portiiin of tliis house was built l>y Frederiek Phili|>se. "tirst lord of tlie manor,"
;i carjienler liv trade, the remaining jiortions were added by his grandson,
of the s.inie n.inie. the third "lord of the manor," in 1 74.vl
25. Philipse Manor-house, Yonkers,N.Y. Drawing-room Details. Date 1745.
26. " " " " " Dining-room Details. Date 1745.
27. " " " " " Guest-chamber Details.
4(
Plate 28. Philipse Manor-house, Yonkers, N. Y. Staircase Details. Date 1745.
- 29. " " " " " Sundry Details.
" 30. City Hall, New York, N. \. View in Rotunda. Date 1803-12.
[Gelatine Print.]
" 31. Faneuil Hall, Boston, Mass. l^ast Front and Plans. Date 1741.
[As altt-red by Cliarles Bultincli, Architect. 1
''32. " " Boston, Mass. Cross-sections.
" 33. "' " '' " Longitudinal Section.
" 34. City Hall, New York, N. Y. South Front. Date 1803-12.
[joliii Mct'omli, Arcliitect]
*' 35. " " " " N. Y. Central Rays.
" 36. " " " " " Section, and Southwest Pavilion.
[After measured drawings l)y E. J. Moeller. Mortimer O. Fi>\ and ntlier students
in tlie Architectural Department of fohmiliia L'niversity.[
" 37. " Hall, New York, N. Y. Rotunda Stairs.
[Gelatine Print.]
" 38. Old House on the Buffalo Road, Gates, N. Y. Mantels.
" 39. " Glass-work, Baltimore, Md. Fan-lights.
" 41. " " " " Head and Side lights.
" 42. Christ Church, Philadelphia, Pa. Date 1727-54.
[Dr. John Kearsley. Architect]
" 43. " " Philadelphia, Pa. Side Elevation and Plan.
" 44. " " " " Cross-sections.
" 45. " '' " " Longitudinal Section.
[After measured ilra\vinj;s l>y Arthur T. SutclilTe and William Reimer.
students in the School of Architectural Drawing of the Drexel Institute, Philadelphia, Pa.]
" 46. Old State House, Boston, Mass. Date 1748.
" 47. " " " *' " Main Staircase.
48. City Hall, New York, N. Y. Door in Vestibule.
[Gelatine Print.]
49. BelHngham-Cary House, Chelsea, Mass. Parlor Details. Date (about)
1750.
[This house was built as a shooting-lodge aliout 17.^0, on the farm once owneil by Governor
Bellingham, at the time when (Chelsea was still Winnisimmet.]
50. BelHngham-Cary House, Chelsea, Mass. Sitting-room Details.
51. " " " " " Staircase.
52. " " " " " " Details, etc.
53. Norton House, Goshen, Conn. Date (about) 1806.
54. " " " " Front Porch, etc.
55. ' * <t u Dining-room Door.
56. " " ♦' " Parlor Mantel.
T^be Georgian Period
JN/lea^^u re d Drawingj*
of
C O L O vN
*»
BY
CHARLES L. HILLMAN FRANK E. WALLIS
E. ELDON DEANE
CLAUDE FAYETTE BRAGDON DAVID A. GREGG
FRANCIS S. SWALES GLENN BROWN
AND OTHERS
"AMERICAN ARCHITECT
BUILDING NEWJ"
CO.
1899
C()rvKii;iir, iSc/;, Tiv thk
AmKKICAN AKC'illTKCr AM) Hi II.IIINC, Nkws Co.
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9
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1 1.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I. Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa. Central Pavilion. Date 1796.
2. Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa. Southern Front. "1755-96.
[The general plan of this entire building and the design and erection of the east wing are believed to
be due to Samuel Khoads, a wealthy builder, later inayor of the city. As the central building and
west wing were built in 1796, twelve years after Rhoads's death, it is probable that their exterior
treatment is due to another, but unknown hand.]
3. Pennsylvania Hospital. E. Front. Date 1755; West Front. Date 1796.
4. Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa. View from the Southeast.
[ Gelatine r?-i/if.^
5. Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa. Measured Details.
6. St. James's Goosecreek Church, near Charleston, S. C. [Date i8th
Century]; Old Stone House, Richmond, Va [The oldest build-
ing^ in Richmond.]
Colonial Fan, Head and Side Lights.
Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa. View from the South.
[C-l.iliiu- Print.]
The Folger House, Geneva, N. Y.
Colonial Doorway, Liberty Street, Pittsburg, Pa.
St. Paul's Church, Ratcliffeboro', Charleston, S. C. [Date 1819]; The
Monumental Church, Richmond, Va. Date 181 2.
(The Monumental Church was erected in memory of seventy-two persons killed by the burning of the
theatre, Dec. z(i, iSi i. Xn urn before the portico is supposed to contain the ashes of the victims.]
12. Mantel in the Parlor of the Tayloe ["Octagon"] House, Washington,
D. C. Date 18 10.
(The mantels in this house, designed by Dr. W'ni. Thointon for Colonel Tayloe. will probably become
well known to architects, since tiiey are to be found in the '" Octagon Iltmse" where the Anrerican
Institute of Architects ha.s recently established its head<piarters,|
I (/VA;////,- J'riii/.\
13. Mantel in the Office of the Essex House, Salem, Mass. Date 1801.
14. " " " " Nichols House, Salem, Mass. Date 1801.
15. " " " " " " Details of the same.
16. Mantel in a Bedroom of the Tayloe ["Octagon"] House, Washington,
D. C. Date 18 10.
\(iL-!afin, J'rnit.\
17. Measured Details of the same.
18. Mantel in the Carlyle Mansion, Alexandria, Va. Date 1752.
19. " " Waitt Place, Barnstable, Mass. Date 1717.
20. The Morris House, South 8th Street, Philadelphia, Pa. Date 1787.
[Ccliitiiu- /'iiitt.\
21. The Morris House, Philadelphia, Pa. Elevation and Detail of Stairs.
(L'nder the impression that this was the house of the Revolutionary financier, Robert Morris, this view-
was taken. l)ut it was later found that the Morris family, still inhabiting the building, antedate even
the Revolutionary notable.
The second story in' arrangement essentially rei)eats llie first Hoor here shown. It is C|uestionable
whether the "'bayed" end of the parlor is jjart of the original arrangeitient, although there is no sign
that the brickwc'irk has ever been disturbed — the doubt is occasioned by the indication of Creek
feeling in the visible fragment of the cornice of this part.]
Plate 22.
The Morris House, South 8th Street, Philadelphia, Pa. Doorway, etc.
Porch at East kno oi-Hali.
23-
The Morris House. Chimneypiece in the Parlor.
" 24. The Tudor Place, (jeorgetown, D. C.
Date 17 [?]-)8i6.
[Gc'/iif/'/ie Priiit^
[The wings of this house, earlier than the main building, are supposed to date from the end of the
eighteenth century. The main i i portion of the building was designed by
Dr. Wm. Thornton and was built for Thomas I'eter in 1816. The house is now occupied by his
daughter, Mrs. B. W. Kennon, who added the kitchen on the e.xtreme left.]
25. The Sacket House, Date 1803, and Woolsey House, Date 1805.
Sacket's Harbor, N. Y.
" 26. Doorways and Details of the same.
" 27. Porch of the General Page House, Bausch and Freemason Streets,
Norfolk, Va.
[Gelatine Print.]
" 28-9. Front Entrance and Details of the Greig Mansion, Canandaigua, N. Y.
" 30. Houses at Providence, R. I.
" 31. Carpenters' Hall, Philadelphia, Pa. Date 1770-5.
32. Carpenters' Hall, Philadelphia, Pa. North Entrance.
[This building was erected for its own use by the Society of Carpenters and was in use by the Society
when, as the most convenient and suitable hall, it was taken possession of by the Continential
Congress who assembled here
scene of the sittings of the
at one time occupied by
of time and as tenant
disrepair and finally
room. Tater, when
for the beginnings
came ])otent, the
penters care-
the building
serves as
of his-
muse-
Sept. 5, 1774. Later it was the
rro\incial Asseniblv and was
British troops. In course
followed tenant it fell into
it became an auction
the patriotic regard
of the nation be-
Society of Car-
fuUy restored
and it now
a species
torical
uni.]
One of two Hicli Chairs used at the session
of the First Continental Congress.
n
TTbe Georgian Period
n
M
A D.
eajurea JL'rawiDgj'
of
BY
FRANK E. WALLIS E. ELDON DEANE
CLAUDE FAYETTE BRAGUON
CHARLES L. HILLMAN JOHN C. HALDEN
FRANK A. HAYS LUDVIG S. IP^EN
AND orilKRS
.•^«>
•si^^v
PART I
a IV M
AMERICAN ARCHITECT
CopvRiGHT, 1902, hy the
American Architkct and Building Nkws Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I. Wrought-iron Newels and Railings, Varick St., New York, N. Y.
\_Gelati/ie Fri/tt.]
** 2. Gate Posts, Salem, Mass.
" 3. Details from the Whipple House, the Armory and Essex Museum,
Salem, Mass.
** 4. Doorway of the Lefferts Homestead, Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, N. Y.
- ' [ Date, about 1750.]
\Gelatine PrintJ]
- 5. Front Window of the Philips House, Salem, Mass. [Date, about 1800.]
* 6. Mantels in the Pingre House, Salem, Mass.
7. Mantel in Superintendent's Room : Erasmus Hall, Flatbush Avenue,
Brooklyn, N. Y. [Date, 1787.]
\Gelatine Frint?^
8. Hamilton Hall and Details of Custom-House, Salem, Mass,
9. House of John Bartram, Grey's Ferry, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1730.]
'• 10. St. Paul's Chapel, Broadway, New York, N. Y. [Date, 1764-94.]
\Gelatine Frint.']
" II. St. Paul's Chapel, Longtitudinal Section and Details.
'• 12. " " Cross Section and Details.
" 13. " " Interior, Looking East.
^Gelatine Frint ?^
" 14. Interior of the Old South Church, Boston, Mass. [Date, 1729.]
15 Roof Truss of "
16. St. John's Chapel, Varick St., New York, N. Y. [Date, 1S03-6.]
\Gelatitie Frint. ^
" 17. Ttic First Church | " (^Id Ship"] etc., Hingham, Mass. [Date, 1681.]
" 18. The Cloisters ["Saal"|, Fphrata, Pa. [Date, 1744.)
Plate 19. The Taylor House, Roxbury, Mass. [Date, about 1790.]
\Gelatine Print.'\
20. " " " " " Details.
" 21. Independence Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.: South Door. [Date, 1729-34.]
" 22. " " Before and after Restoration.
\Ge!atine Print l\
" 23. ** " Main Hallway and Details.
" 24. ** " Staircase Hall.
25-
" " North Front and Tower.
\Gelatine Pi-i7it?\
26. *' " State Supreme Court Chamber.
27. "
« II
" 28. Mantels in House on So. Third Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
\Gelatine Prini.'\
" 29. Independence Hall, Philadelphia, Pa.: Declaration Chamber.
" 30. Mount Pleasant Mansion, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1761.]
" 31. Interior of Christ Church, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, about 1727.J
\Gelatine Print ^
" 32. Mount Pleasant Mansion, Philadelphia, Pa. : The Central Feature.
" 33. " " " Pavilions and Details.
" 34. Cupolas: Pennsylvania Hospital, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1755-96.]
[Gdaiiue Pri/ii.]
" 35. Mount Pleasant Mansion, Philadelphia, Pa. : East and West Doorways.
" 36. " " " •• " Parlor Details.
f e ^
Fbe Georgian Period
bein^
JVlea^ured Drawingj-
of
99
F. J. KIDD
FRANCIS S. SWALES
BY
CLAUDE FAYETTE BKAGDON
CHARLES L. HILLMAN
J. F. STROBEL, Jr.
SAMUEL R. IJE LONG
AMERICAN ARCHITECT
BUILDING NEWJ"
C O.
1900
Coi'VKKiirr, 1900. iiv thk
Amkrican Ahchitkct and Huildixc. Nkws Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I. First Congregational Church, Canandaigua, N. Y. [Date, i8i2.|
2. House and Doorway, Main St., Canandaigua, N. Y.
«
3. St. Peter's P. E. Church, Third and Pine St., Philadelphia, Pa. [1758-61.]
\_Gelatine Prii!f.~\
" 4. Ontario County Jail, Canandaigua, N. Y. : Mantel in Granger Place
School.
" 5. Ayrault House and Door of Wadsworth House, Geneseo, N. Y.
6. Interior of St. Peter's P. E. Church, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1758-61.]
\_Gelatinc Print. '\
" 7. Front Entrance of the Court-House, Geneseo, N. Y.
" 8. Mantels from the Culver Homestead, Bricjhton, N. Y.
" 9. Details from the Tillman House, Geneva, N. Y.
" 10. Archway in Camp Mansion, Sackett's Harbor, N. Y.
" II. Gloria Dei, or the Old Swedes' Church, Philadelphia, Pa. |Date, 1700.]
[Gelatine /'rint.~\
12. Details of ■' Gloria Dei," Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1700.]
" 13. Two Mantelpieces at Ovid, N. Y.
" 14. The Mappa House |now owned by W. S. Wicks, Esq.], Trenton, N. Y.
[Gelatine /'i-int.'\
" 15. A Doorway at Greece, N. Y.
" 16. The Mappa House, Trenton, N. V. : Parlor Doorway. [Date, 1809-12.]
" 17. " " " " " " " and Front Door.
[Gelatine J^rint.~\
" 18. The Mappa House, Trenton, X. Y. : Front Door and Details.
19. " " " " " Dining-room and Library Mantels.
20
[Gelatine Print.^^
21. The Mappa House, Trenton, X. V.: Chamber and Sitting-room
Mantels.
22. " " " " " Hall and Stair Details.
TEXT.
Colonial Work in the Genesee Valley *
By Claude Fayette Bragdon .... 1-7
Colonial Work at Sackett's Harbor*
By Claude Fayette Bragdon ..... 7-9
The Mappa House, Trenton, N. Y.
By W. S. Wicks lo-n
Two Old Philadelphia Churches: St. Peter's P. E. Church and "Gloria Dei" 12
Old Colonial Work of Virginia and Maryland *
By A. Burnley Bibb ....... 13-16
* Revised and reprinted from the /? mericn^i A rchitect.
ft
TTbe Georgian Period
IVlea^urea Drawingj*
of
n
J. C. 1-IALDEN
C. L. HILLMAN
S. R. De long
l:. w. donn, jr.
BY
A. B. BIBB
F. S. SWALES
E. P. MORRILL
E. E. DEANE
T. F. LAIST
AND OTHERS
.^•^
.^^
^V
m
1^
°-^v
-^
A VI M
"AMERICAN ARCHITECT
BUILDING NEWJ"
CO.
1900
COPVRIC.HT, 1900, HY TUK
Amkricax Architi-xt and Blildixc, Xicws Co.
PARKHILL A. CO.. BOSTON, U, S, »
PRINTERS
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate 1. The Upsal and Chew Houses, Germantown, Pa.
[Th(-se houses practically face one another (jn the main street. The Upsal
(Johnson) house dates 1798-1802. The Chew House, or "Cliveden,"
is older, as it sheltered British troops during one of the Revolutionary
battles.]
2. Mantel in the Upsal Mansion, Germantown, Pa. [1798-1802.]
3. Mantels " '' " " " [1798-1802.]
[Gelatine Print.]
4. Woodford Mansion, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1763]
5. " " Details.
6. "I'uckahoe," Goochland Co., \ a.
7. Mantel in House in Fairmont Park, Philadelphia, Pa.
8. Mantel in Wister Mansion, Germantown, Pa.
9. Staircase Details, ''Tuckahoe," Goochland C-o., Pa.
10. "Solitude," House of John Penn, Philadelphia, Pa. [Date, 1884.]
11. Details of "Solitude."
12. House of Barton Myers, Esq., Norfolk, Va. [Early 18th Cent.]
{(ielatiiie I'riitt.]
13. Mantels in Sharrett's House, Baltimore, Md.
14. Mantels in House on Baltimore Street, Baltimore, Md.
\5. Entrance Hall: House of Barton Myers, Esq., Norfolk, V'a.
[(7c/i!ti}ie I'riitt.]
16. Library Mantel: House of Barton Myers, Esq., Norfolk, Va.
1/. Parlor
18. " Chimney-piece "
[fieliitine Print.]
H (4 t I ii,
a a (I ((
Plate 19. Memories of a Trip to Norfolk.
" 20. "Woodlavvn," \'a. Dr. Wm. Thornton, Architect. [Date, 1799.]
" 21. Typical Norfolk Porches.
" 22. "Woodlawn," Va. Details of Entrance.
'' 23. " " " " Wings.
" 24. " " " " Stairs, etc.
" 25. " " Wood Mantel in N. E. Room.
" 26. " " " " " S. E. Room.
" 27. "Shirley Mansion," on the James River, Va.
[Gelatine Print.]
" 28. "Baltimore House," Riverdale, Md.
" 29. " " " " Staircase Details.
" 30. " " " " Cornice Details.
" 31. '' " " " Details of "Glass Parlor."
" 32. Details from the Parlor, Shirley, Va.
" 33. "Mount Vernon," Va. The Mansion. [Date, 1743.]
" 34. " " " Details.
" 35. " " " Plan of the Home Grounds.
" 36. "Gunston Hall:" Drawing-room Door. [Date, 1758.]
37. "Claymont Court." (A proposed renovation.)
TEXT.
Old Colonial Work of Virginia and Maryland [Concluded.] . . 17-54
By A. Burnley Bibb.
Some Homes of the Washington Family 54
By Mrs. Sally Nelson Robins.
w
The Georgian Period"
iVlea^urea Drawingj'
of
AJ 1 A L
BY
SUNDRY PUPILS OF THE ARCHITECTURAL DEPARTMENT
OF THE MASSACHUSETTS INSTITUTE OF
TECHNOLOGY
DURING THE SUMMER SCHOOLS OF 1894-95
# PART
l^\ VII .W
'AMERICAN ARCHITECT
<r
BUILDING NEWJ"
CO.
1900
Copyright, 1900, by the
Amkkican Architect and Building Xkws Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate 1. The Paca House, Annapolis, Md. [Date, about 1780.]
[Gelatine Print.]
' 2. Newel-post and Balusters, No. 125 Derby Street, Salem, Mass.
' 3. Hall and Staircase,
' 4. The Marx House, Annapolis, Md. — ''Rosewell," Whitcmarsh, Va.
' 5. Newel-post and Balusters: Hubon House, Salem, Mass.
' 6.
/.
r Staircase:
( Staircase: Brooks House.
(< <<
i< <<
r rhe John Derby House, Derby Street, Salem, Mass.
I The Joseph C.abot House, Salem, Mass. [Date, 1810.]
' 8. Newel-post and Balusters: Joseph C^abot House, Salem, Mass. "
' 9. Main Stairway and Mantels, "
(< <«
' 10.
j The Nichols House, Federal Street, Salem, Mass. [Date, 1801.]
I I'he Hodges House, l^ssex Street, " " [Date, 1800.]
' 11. Newel-post and Balusters: Hodges House, " " [Date, 1800.]
' 12. Front Porch, etc.: Oliver House, " " [Date, 1802.]
' 13.
f The George Peabody House, " " [Date, 1818.]
I The Saftord [Andrew] House, " " [Date, 1818.]
' 14. Mantelpieces, etc.: Oliver House, " " [Date, 1802.]
' 15. I'he Forrester House, " " [Date, 1780.]
' 16. The Emerton [Pickman] House, " " [Date, 1820.]
' 17. Front i^orch: Shreve House,
Plate 18. Entrance Porch, No. 129 Essex Street, Salem, Mass.
{ Some Salem, Mass., Doorways: 20 Turner St.; Corner Oliver St. and
19.
^ Washington Square; theOsgood House; the "Pineapple House."
20. Mantelpieces at No. 12 Elm St. and No. 14 Pickman St., Salem, Mass.
21. Mantelpieces in Danversport, Mass.
99
I Wooden Porches, Salem, Mass.: Gov. Endicott's House; 81 Essex
^ Street; Mrs. Bov^doin's House; the Nichols House.
23. Mantelpiece in the Haven House, Portsmouth, N. H. [Date, 1800.]
24. Hall and Stairway: the Ladd House, " " [Date, 1764.]
( Salem, Mass., Porches: Wood on Brick: 10 Chestnut St.; the Lord
95 J
i House; 129 Essex St.; the Safford [Andrew] House. [Date, 1818.]
26. The West Church, Cambridge Street, Boston, Mass.
( Two Wooden Porches, Salem, Mass.: The Ward House; The
27.
I Stearns House.
28. Front and East Elevations: West Church, Boston, Mass.
( The Waller House, St. Peter's Street, Salem, Mass. [Date, 1684.]
29. _
( The Marie Goodhue House, Danvers, Mass.
30. The Dummer House, Bifield, Mass.
The Jeffrey Lang House, Salem, Mass. [Date, 1740.]
31.
The Bertram House for Aged Men, Salem, Mass.
32. Illustrations from Asher Benjamin's ^''Country Builders' Assistant.''''
33. The South Church, Salem, Mass. [Date, 1806.]
*e
The Georgian Period
n
M
eJ Di
ea^urea urawings
of
m
^
"^
#
PART
4 VIII m
AMERICAN ARCHITECT
BUILDING NE>A<^J**
CO.
1901
Copyright, 1901 by the
American Architect and Building News Co
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate 1. Porch of the Judge Walker House, Lenox, Mass. [1804]
" 2. Doorway and Staircase: Winslow House, Plymouth, Mass. [1755]
" 3.* Characteristic English Doorways.
" 4. Old Deal Doorway now in South Kensington Museum.
" 5.* Fireplace Finish: Mantels at Great Wigsell and South Molton, Eng.
" 6. Doorway to Fairfax House, Putney, Eng.
" 7.* The Vicarage, Hailsham, and a House in SaHsbury Close.
" 8. Eighteenth-century Door-heads, Exeter, Eng.
" 9.* Gate Piers, Hampstead Marshall, Eng.
" 10. Eighteenth-century Door-heads, Exeter, Eng.
" 11.* Benham, Berks, Eng. [1775]
" 12. Details of River Front: Hampton Court Palace.
" 13.* An ?]nglish Lake House.
" 14. The Manor House, Wandsworth, Eng.
" 15.* Entrance Screen, Syon House, Middlesex, and All Saints' Church,
Northampton, Eng.
" 16. Plan and Stair Details: Wandsworth Manor.
" 17.* Heraldic Carvings.
" 18. North l^ntrance Doorway: Wandsworth Manor.
" 19.* Town-halls at Abingdon, Rye and South Molton, and Council Chamber,
Chichester, Eng.
" 20. Guildhall, Guildford, Surrey, Eng.
" 21.* Town-halls at Witney and High Wycombe, Eng.
" 22. Trinity Ground Almshouse, London, Eng.
" 23.* College of Matrons, in the Close, Salisbury, Eng.
" 24. Gate-house: Irinity Almshouse, Deptford, Eng. [1670]
" 25.* The Bridge, Newbury, Berks, Eng.
" 26. Staircase Hall, No. 12 Devonshire Sq., London, Eng.
*' 27.* Iron Gates, St. Giles, Oxford, and in Salisbury Close.
" 28. A House in the Close, Sahsbury, Eng.
" 29.* Iron Gates at Burford and h-vesham, Eng.
*I"roin ne.i,';i lives made fs|)cvially tor this |nililicalion liy Mr. Galswcirthy Davie.
Plate 30. I'he Garden House: Clements Inn, London.
" 31.* Tombs and Gravestones, Witney, Oxon, Kng. [1711-1769]
" 32. West Front: St. Mary-le-Strand, London, Eng.
" 33. St. Mary-le-Strand, London, Kng. [1714-23]
" 34. Tower and Plan: St. Mary-le-Strand, London, Eng.
" 35.* Tombs at Witney and Fairford, Eng. [1728-1760]
" 36. Old Fireplaces (No. l), Dighton St., Bristol, Eng.
" 37. Christ Church, Newgate, London, Eng. [1686-87]
" 38. Old Fireplaces (No. 2), Dighton St., Bristol, Eng.
" 39. Christ Church, Spitalfields, London, Eng. [1715]
"" 40. Interior, looking East: Christ Church, Spitalfields, London. [1715]
" 41. Dublin Doorways.
" 42. Rotunda Hospital, Dublin [1751], and the Casino, Clontarf, Ireland.
" 43. Later Georgian Doorways, Dublin, Ireland.
" 44. Blue-coat School [1773], and the College of Surgeons, Dublin, Ireland.
" 45. Georgian Lamp-standards, Dublin, Ireland.
" 46. Clock-tower Dublin Castle, and Cork Hill, Dublin, Ireland.
'' 47. Georgian Ironwork in Dublin, Ireland.
" 48. City Hall [1796], and Trinity College, Dublin, Ireland.
TEXT.
The Georgian Houses of New England. Pages 81-86
Robert S. Peahody, t.A.I.A.
Georgian Door-heads in. London. " 87-90
Owen Fleming, A.R.I.B.A.
The Architecture of the I^ighteenth Century in England. " 91-104
Paul Waterhouse, F.R.I.B.A.
A Triad of Georgian Churches in London. " 104-106
Georgian Architecture in Dublin. " 107-112
Thomas E. Hudman, M.R.I. I.
*I''roiTi negatives made especially for this i)ublication by Mr. Galsworthy D-ivie.
ft
IThe Georgian Period
r>ein^
n
M
d D,
eajurea i>'rawmg\5'
of
C O L O vN 1 A L
P'RANK K. WaIJ>1S
C . Bkrtram Frfach
E. P. MORRILI.
Hv
and others
E. Eldon Drank
Thko. H. Skinner
C. M. BiJj.
•4^5 IX M
"AMERICAN ARCHnrECT
BUILDING NEVVJ"
CO.
1902
copyrujiit. 1902, uv thk
Amkkican Architkct ano Huilding News Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate 1. Entrance Porch: Starkweather House, Pawtucket, R. I.
2. Cottage, Battle, Sussex, England.
2. House near Goudhurst, Kent, England.
3. Sketches at Economy, O.
4. 'IVinity, "Old Swedes," Church, Wilmington, Del. [1698]
5. Interior of Trinity, ''Old Swedes," Church, Wilmington, Del. [1698]
6. University of Virginia: The Rotunda. Thomas Jefferson, Architect.
7. " '' " Plan and Professors' Houses.
8. "Monticello," near Charlottesville, Va. Thomas Jefferson, Architect.
9. " West Elevation.
10. " East and North Elevations.
11. " Mr. Jefferson's Private Apartments.
12. ''Stenton": The Home of James Logan, near Philadelphia. [1728]
13. Thomas Cowles House, Farmington, Conn.
14. " " " " " Entrance Gateway.
15. " " " " " Mantels.
16. King Manor House, Jamaica, L. I. [1750-1805]
17. Front Entrance of the James L. Cowles F^ouse, Farmington, Conn.
18. Park Street Church, Boston, Mass. Peter Banner, Architect. [1809]
19. I'rinity C-hurch, Newport, R. i.
20. " " " " Pulpit Details.
21. " " " " Gallery Details.
22. '' *' " " Beadle's Pew.
23. Presbyterian Church, Newark, N. J. [1744]
23. Trinitv Church, Newark, N. J. [1805]
Plate 24. A Fayette Street Mansion, Baltimore, Md.: Mahogany Door.
25. " " " " '' Parlor Details.
26. Sleepy Hollow Church, Tarrytown, N. Y. [168-]
27. Twin Entrances: No. 117 George Street, Providence, R. 1.
28. Doorways on Mill and Mary Streets, Newport, R. I.
29. Front Door of the Watson House, Newport, R. I.
30. Doorways on William Street and Wanton Avenue, Newport, R. I.
31. Doorway No. 27 Church Street, Newport, R. 1.
32. Tayloe (Octagon) House, Washington, D. C: Front Door. [1810]
33. Doorway at Clarkson, N. Y. [1822]
34. Doorway to the C^lark House, Caledonia, N. Y.
35. Two Philadelphia Doorways.
TEXT.
The Relation of Georgian Architecture to Carpentry," Pages 1-11
By Paul Watkrhouse, F.R.I.B.A.
Seventeenth-century Houses. " 11-13
Dutch and German Eighteenth-century Work. '* 14-24
The University of Virginia. " 25-27
By I'hkodork H. Skinner.
The Cape Fear River District, N. (-. *' 28
By James Eastus Price.
IllustraU'ii witli ]ih(iti)oni|jlis l}y W. Cai.sworthv Davik.
w
The Georgian Period
n
M
d Di
eajurea lyrawingj*
of
E. ELDON DEANE
ILLUSTRATIONS
BY
C. M. HILL
E. P. MORRILL
AMERICAN ARCHITECT
BUIl-DING NEWiy"
CO.
1902
Copyright, 1902, by the
American Architect and Building Np:\vs Co.
S. J. PARKHILL & CO.. BOSTON. U.S.A.
pniNTER^
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I.
3-
4-
5-
6.
7-
8.
9-
lO.
1 1.
12.
13-
14.
15-
16.
17-
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23-
24.
25-
26.
27.
The Picture-paper Parlor: " Friendfield," near Georgetown, S. C.
Gates and Entrance to the George Edmondson House, Legare St.,
Charleston, S. C.
The Edmondson Gates, Legare St., Charleston, S. C.
( The De Saussure House, South Battery, Charleston, S. C. [Abt. 1830]
(Gates and Servants' Quarters: De Saussure House.
A Typical Charleston House: The Johnston House.
The Holmes House and Carriage Gateway, East Battery, Charleston,
S. C. [1818-22]
Miscellaneous Wrought Ironwork, Charleston, S. C.
"Belvedere" Farmhouse [Now the Country Club], on the Cooper
River, near Charleston S. C. [1810]
Parlor Mantelpiece: "Belvedere" Farmhouse.
Parlor Doorway: "Belvedere" Farmhouse, on the Cooper River, S. C.
The Nathaniel Hey ward House, East Bay St., Charleston, S. C. [1750]
The Nathaniel Heyward House and Entrance Gate.
The Nathaniel Russell House and Entrance, Charleston, S. C. [1785]
Mantel in the Thomas Ball House, Charleston, S. C.
!The Gibbes [Drayton] House, Charleston, S. C. ^ [1752]
The Augustine Smythe House (recently altered).
Parlor Cornice in the Thomas Ball House, Charleston, S. C.
iThe Ancrum House, Meeting and Charlotte Sts., Charleston. [1820]
The Witte House, Rutledge Ave., Charleston, S. C. [iSio]
Drawing-room Wall: Judge Heyward's House, Charleston, S. C.
The Bull-Pringle [Miles Brewton] House, Charleston, S. C. [1765J
" " House: The Drawing-room.
11 << II 11 II i<
" " " Drawing-room Mantel.
" " " " Details.
Rear View.
" " " Doorway to Drawing-room.
" " " Section through the Hall.
Section through Staircase.
( A Typical Charleston House.
) " " " Veranda [Dr. Bemis's].
Plate 28.
29.
^o.
32-
34-
35-
36.
37-
3<^.
39-
40.
Veranda [Dr. Bemis's] Details, Charleston, S. C, [1730]
( The De Saussure Gateway, Charleston, S. C.
\ The Simonton Gateway, " "
The Simonton Gateway, Legare St., Charleston, S. C.
Flynn's Presbyterian Church, Charleston, S. C. ■ [181 1]
The Lillybridge House, Perry St. and Albert Sq., Charleston, S. C.
The Lowndes [Waggoner] House (Lately used as the Woman's Building
of the Charleston Exposition).
j Mantel in the Old Baptist Parsonage, Beaufort, S. C.
I " " " Haywood [Lynch] House, Charleston, S. C.
(A Gateway: Charleston, S. C.
(Gate-house: Manigault Place, Charleston, S. C.
The Horry House, Charleston, S. C.
( Doorway of St. Mary's Male Academy, Norfolk, Va.
(A Charleston, S. C, Gateway.
" Mulberry Castle," on the Cooper River, S. C. [1714]
" Drayton Hall," on the Ashley River, near Charleston, S. C. . [1740]
Prince George's Church, Georgetown, S. C.
41.
42.
43
44
45
46
47
( The Pyatt House, Georgetown, S. C.
" Prospect Hill," on the Waccamaw River, near Georgetown, S. C.
Mantel: "Prospect Hill," on the Waccamaw River, Georgetown, S. C.
The Picture-paper Room: " Friendfield," Georgetown, S. C.
Ends of the Picture-paper Room : " Friendfield," Georgetown, S. C.
The Calhoun Homestead, Newnan, Ga.
"Concord," near Natchez, Miss.
TEXT.
Charleston, between Ashley and Cooper
C. R. S. HORTON
An Autumn Trip to Charleston, South Carolina
E. Eldon Deane
Romance and the South Carolina Homestead
Olive F. Gunby
More Peculiarities of Southern Colonial Work
Pages 29-42
45-53
54-57
57-64
♦e
T"be Georgian Period
bein^
n
M
ed Di
ea^urea JLTawingj*
of
E. ELDON DEANE
ILLUSTRATIONS
BY
C. M. BILL
E. P. MORRILL
AMERICAN ARCHITECT"
BUILDING NEVVJ"
CO.
1902
copyrigh'i', 1902, by the
Amkrican Architkct and Building News Co.
S. J. PARKHILL 4. CO , BOSTON. U.S.i
PRINTERS
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I. House of Edward Jenkins, Esq., Edisto Island, S. C. [1683]
" 2. Front and Rear: House of Edw. Jenkins, Esq., Edisto Island, S. C.
" 3. St. Michael's Church, Charleston, S. C. [1752-61]
" 4. Section and Plan : St. Michael's Church, Charleston, S. C.
" 5. Interior of St. Michael's Church, Charleston, S. C.
( Chancel Rail: St. Michael's Church, Charleston, S. C.
" 6 I
(Outside Gate: St. I'hilip's Church, Charleston, S. C.
iView from St. Michael's Porch, Charleston, S. C.
Gateway to St. Michael's Churchyard, Charleston, S. C.
8. Pulpit: St. Michael's Church, Charleston, S. C.
" 9. St. Philip's Church, Charleston, S. C. [1836-9]
" 10. Interior of St. Philip's Church, Charleston, S. C.
" II. Wamboro [St. James's] Church: Front and Side Elevations. [1768]
12. " " " Details,
" 13. St. Helena's Church, Beaufort, S. C.
" 14. Gateways to St. Helena's Churchyard, Beaufort, S. C.
/Strawberry Church, on the Cooper River, S. C.
^^ _ j St. Andrew's, on the Ashley River, S. C. [1706]
^' ] Cainhoy Church, near Charleston, S. C. [i^^Sl
(St. Stephen's Church, Santee. [1767]
" 16. Christ Church, Alexandria, Va. [1767]
I
/•
! Pulpit : Pompion Hill Chapel, near Charleston, S. C. [1763]
Interior: St. James's Church, Goose Creek, S. C. [171^]
Plate 1 8. North Front: "El Dorado," South Santee River, S. C.
( South Front: " El Dorado," South Santee River, S. C.
^' I " Hampton," on the South Santee River, S. C.
( The Arthur Middleton Tomb, " Middleton Place," Ashley River, S. C.
( The Drayton Tomb, " Magnolia on the Ashley," S. C.
•* 21. The Elliott House, Beaufort, S. C,
" 22. Room in the Beardsley [Elliott] House, Beaufort, S. C.
" 23. Staircase and Porch of the Fuller House, Beaufort, S. C.
" 24. Dining-room Mantelpiece: Fuller House, Beaufort, S. C.
" 25. Sketches in Beaufort, S. C.
TEXT.
French Santee, South Carolina Pages 65 71
C. R. S. HORTON
Some Estates on the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, S. C. " 71-73
Beaufort, S. C, an Island Capital '• 74- 77
E. Eldon Deane
St. Michael's and St. Philip's, Charleston, S. C. " 78-83
C. R. S. HORTON
The De Saussure Homestead, near Camden, S. C. " 83-84
Olive F. Gunky
The Matter of Imported Materials " 84-88
ft
The Georgian Period
being ^
iVlea^urea Drawing J*
n
of
#
PART
\il
* Xll #
AMERICAN ARCHITECT
5UILD1NG NEWJ"
CO.
1902
Copyright, 1902, by the
Amkrican Architect and Building News Co.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
Plate I. "Woodlands," Front: HouseofWm. Hamilton, Philadelphia, Pa. [1770]
\Gclatiue Priut?\
J, (The Josiah Day House, West Springfield, Mass. [i754]
( Living-room in Cottage of John Adams, Quincy, Mass. [xvii cent.]
" Greenwood," near Thomasville, Ga.
A Tuskegee, Ala., Homestead.
" Beauvoir," Biloxi, Miss.
^ " Home Place," Parish of St. Charles, La. [xviii cent.]
^ The Old Marmillion Mansion, Parish of St. John the Baptist, La.
S House of George Lorio, Esq., St. Charles Parish, La.
New Orleans Barracks.
4-
5-
6.
7-
8.
9-
10.
1 1.
12.
13-
14.
15-
16.
17-
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
The Ursuline Convent, New Orleans, La.
The Archbishop's Palace, New Orleans, La.
The Old Exchange Building, Savannah, Ga.
Staircase in the Bulloch House, Savannah, Ga.
" Edgewood," near Edgefield, S. C.
( " Edgewood," near Edgefield, S. C.
/ " Inglehurst," near Macon, Ga.
[1734]
[1734]
[xviii cent.]
[1818]
[Abt. 1830]
[xix cent.]
" Edgewood," near Edgefield, S. C. : Home of the Pickens Family.
" Ashlands," near AL)bile, Ala.
" Monmouth," near Natchez, Miss.
" Dunlieth," near Natchez, Miss.
[xviii cent.]
[xix cent. J
" Burnside," La., on the Mississippi River.
" Belle Grove," Iberville Parish, La. [xix cent.]
"Millford," in the High Hills of Santee, S. C. [xix cent.]
ILeydon House, Atlanta, Ga.
The Safford Homestead, near Madison, Ga.
("Windy Hill," near Natchez, Miss.
( House of Judge Reuben Davis, Aberdeen, Miss.
( "Arlington," Va., opposite Washington, D. C. [1S02]
i "Montebclh^" near Natchez, Miss. [xix cent. |
"Montpelicr," Orange Co., Va. : Home of James Madison. [Abt. 1795]
("Mount Airy," on the Rappahannock, Va. [1758]
) "Crewe Hall," Malvern Hill, Chesterfield Co., Va. [xviii cent.]
Plate
23
(<
24
It
25'
i(
26.
11
27.
II
28.
II
29.
II
^i^
33
44
" Mount Airy," the Home of the Tayloes. [175S]
"Westover," on the James River, Va. [i737|
" Kenmore," Fredericksburg, Va. [17 — ]
" The Drawing-room ; — The Dining-room.
" Oatlands," Loudon Co., Va. [1790]
"Woodlands " : Rear View, Philadelphia, Pa. [Abt. 1770]
\Gelatine Print^
Details.
Stable.
\_Gclatine Prin(!\
31. Prichett's House, Llanerch, Pa. [xviii cent.]
32. Doorway, 211 South 17th Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
( " Rock Hall," Lawrence, Long Island, N. Y.
j The Apthorpe House, New York, N. Y.
34. The Count Rumford House, Woburn, Mass. [179c]
35. " " " " Details. [1790]
, ( Doorway at Manton, R. L
) Doorway on Benefit Street, Providence, R. L
37. Interior Views Brown-Gammell House, Providence, R. I. [1786]
■^Q II II i( II II II II (<
39. The Old Providence Bank, Providence, R. I.
40. The Old Senate-Chamber, Mass. State-house. [^79^]
41. The Massachusetts State-house, Boston, Mass. [''798J
42. Parlor Mantel in the Waterman House, Duxbury, Mass. [1S03]
("The Hermitage," on the Savannah River, Ga. [1820]
( The James K. Polk Mansion, Nashville^ Tenn.
("The Hermitage," on the Savannah River, Ga. [1820]
) " The Hermitage," Nashville, Tenn.
45. First Baptist Church, Providence, R. I. [^ 774-5]
46. The White House, Washington, D. C. [1818]
47.- The Capen House, Binghamton, N. Y. [1810]
TEXT.
Savannah and Parts of the Far South. Pages 89-99
C. R. S. HORTON
"Millford," in the High Hills of Santee, S. C. " 100-102
Olive F. Gunby
The Men who designed the Old Colonial Buildings. " 102-105
George Clarence Gardner
The Greek Revival and Some Other Things. " 106-118
The Massachusetts State-house, Boston. " 1 19-124
Envoi " 124