_\x:
GLENCAIRN
(DUMFRIESSHIRE)
The Annals of an Inland Parish.
BY
JOHN CORRIE.
Frontispiece by JAMES PATERSON, R.S.A.
DUMFRIES: THOS. HUNTER & Co.
1910.
tto
Sbe flbemorg of
/IDotber,
Who early instilled into me a love of Glencairn
and all that concerns its history, this volume is
affectionately dedicated.
" If I had my way I would have, as part of the
teaching in every country school, a little book giving
the story of the parish, mentioning the main changes,
any historical facts connected with it, and the names of
any distinguished natives. The people in our country
parishes know nothing of the local history, and it is
not good that they should be ignorant."
British Weekly.
PREFACE.
IN the following pages I have attempted to sketch briefly the
history of Glencairn from the earliest times. During
recent years, and especially since the advent of the rail-
way, enquiries for such a book have been frequent. It is true
that an excellent little history of the parish was published in
1876 by the late Rev. John Monteith, but the book has long been
out of print, and it is now difficult to procure copies even at a
premium. In these circumstances I have attempted a task that
I would willingly have left for abler hands to overtake.
I am free to confess that a considerable impetus to the
writing of the history was imparted by the discovery of two
Church Treasurer's Books in MS. containing much curious
information illustrative of the social and religious life of the
parish about the close of the eighteenth, and the beginning of
the nineteenth century. Some of the items, it seemed to me,
were of more than merely local interest, and through the cour-
tesy of Glencairn Kirk- Session I have now the privilege of
making the contents of the little volumes, together with other
extracts from the Records, generally accessible.
To the Rev. R. G. Philip, M.A., United Free Church
Manse, Glencairn, and to Mr G. W. Shirley, Librarian, Ewart
Public Library, Dumfries, my thanks are gratefully offered for
much valuable assistance and advice. In dealing with the
Place-names many helpful suggestions have been received from
the Rev. James B. Johnston, B.D., Falkirk, and Mr George
Macdonald, Station House, Moniaive. Mr James Paterson,
R.S.A., has conferred a signal honour upon my book by his
picture of "Glencairn," which has been so beautifully repro-
duced in photogravure by Messrs T. & R. Annan & Co., of
Glasgow. My acknowledgments are likewise due to the Rev.
viii. PREFACE.
Sir Emilius Laurie, Bart, of Maxwelton, for permission to repro-
duce the valuable and interesting paintings of Mr Alexander
Fergusson and " Bonnie Annie Laurie " ; to Mr William
Macmath, Edinburgh, for the picture of Moniaive in 1790; to
Messrs Valentine & Sons, Dundee, for two of the photographs;
and to Messrs J. Maxwell & Son, Dumfries, for the drawing of
the Craigdarroch Whistle.
I desire to express my thanks also to a number of other
friends svho, although not expressly named here, have none the
less helped to make my work more complete.
Notwithstanding the limitations and imperfections of the
book, I venture to hope that it will be received as a not unworthy
contribution to the history of a parish that has long been famous
alike for its natural beauty and for its rich historic interest.
J. C.
Burnbank,
Moniaive,
December, 1910.
CONTENTS.
PAGE.
PREFACE .. ... ... vii.
CHAP. I. NAME AND TOPOGRAPHY.
Origin of Name — Extent of Parish — Hills — Streams —
Valleys — Mineral springs — Geological formation—Woods
— Font's Map — Distribution of population about 1610 —
General description — The Glens in Borland Hall ... 1
CHAP. II. EARLY TIMES.
Traces of occupancy — Importance of Place-names as an
index of early conditions — The more interesting Place-
names with their probable meanings 10
CHAP. III. ANTIQUITIES.
Animal remains — Stone implements and weapons —
Crannog and Earthwork at Loch Urr — Camps — Motes
— Other defensive works — Cairns and burial mounds —
Portable relics ... 18
CHAP. IV. VALUATION. 31
(1) Ancient— (2) Modern.
CHAP. V. THE CHURCH BEFORE THE REFORMATION.
Saint Cuthbert — Site of Saint Cuthbert's Chapel — First
mention of Glencairn — The Knights Templars — Pre-
Reformation Clergy in Glencairn — Religious condition
of the people— Shrines and pilgrimages — Visit of James
IV. to Glencairn on his way to the Shrine of Whithorn
— Dawn of the Reformation ... ... ... ... 38
CHAP. VI. THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION.
Parish Ministers subsequent to the Reformation — Old
Parish Church of Glencairn — The Churchyard— The
present Church — The United Presbyterian Church and
its Ministers — The Free Church of Scotland and its
Ministers — The United Free Church of Scotland ... 44
x. CONTENTS.
CHAP. VII. THE COVENANTERS.
Origin of Covenanting Struggle — Ejected Ministers —
The Rising at Dairy — Turner brought a prisoner from
Dumfries by way of Glencairn — Rullion Green — Claver-
house in the South of Scotland — Glencairn martyrs —
James Renwick — Other Glencairn martyrs and sufferers
— The Revolution ... ... ... ... ... 54
CHAP. VIII. KIRK-SESSION RECORDS.
Far-reaching duties of the Kirk-Session — Curious ex-
tracts from Records, 1G93 onwards — Quaint and interest-
ing details from Church Treasurer's Books, 1783-98
and 1808-19, as to (1) Collections ; (2) Fines, proclama-
tions, &c. ; (3) Interest on loans, &c. ; (4) Expenditure :
Care of the poor ... ... ... ... ... ... 72
CHAP. IX. EDUCATION.
John Knox and Education — Number and distribution
of Schools in Glencairn — The Education Act of 1872 —
The Grierson Glencairn Bursary — Schoolmasters from
1694 83
CHAP. X. THE REBELLIONS OF 1715 AND 1745.
Important part played by the men of Glencairn in first
Rebellion — The march to Stirling — Garrison duty under
Lieut.-Col. Blackader — Collapse of first Rebellion — The
Rebellion of 1745 — Local measures of defence — Action
by the Presbytery — Fine of £2000 exacted from the
county town — Handsome contributions from Sir Robert
Laurie of Maxwelton and others — Close of the Rebellion 92
CHAP. XL HISTORIC FAMILIES.
The Fergusson Family — The Cuningtafn Family — The
Laurie Family — The Gibson Family — -other Families ... 100
CHAP. XII. FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS.
James Renwick — Robert Cutlar Fergusson — " Bonnie
Annie Laurie" — Lieut.-Col. Blackader — James Fisher
— Alexander Clerk — Rev. Robert Gordon, D.D. —
William Bennet — Rev. John Inglis, D.D. — Rev. William
France — Rev. Alexander Grierson, A.M. — John Hyslop
CONTENTS. xi.
— Walter Paton, J.P., D.L.— John Dalziel— Rev. Alex-
ander Todd — Robert Mackill — References to Col. Sir
George G. Walker, and others 112
CHAP. XIII. BURNS and GLENCAIRN.
The Poet's visits as an exciseman — " The Whistle " —
"Willie brewed a peck o' maut" — A Glencairn subject
for a projected drama, Rob Macque.chan's Elshon —
Legend of King Robert the Bruce and Dalwhat —
" Address to the Deil " — " Lament for James, Earl of
Glencairn" 127
CHAP. XIV. INDUSTRIES, PAST AND PRESENT.
Agriculture the principal industry — Primitive methods of
cultivation about 1800 — Impetus given to improvement
by Highland and Agricultural Society — The growing of
flax, and its manufacture — Lint wells and lint mills —
The droving of cattle — Minor industries : Muslin em-
broidery or " Flowering "—Hand-knitting — Weaving —
Coopering — Thatching — Basket-making — Candle-mak -
ing — Nail-making — Modern Agriculture — Favourite
breeds of sheep and cattle — Staple crops — Modes of
husbandry — Leases — Wages — Improved condition of
workers ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 132
CHAP. XV. GLENCAIRN DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.
Social condition of the people — Houses — Furniture —
Dress — Food — Light — Fuel — Amusements, Customs,
and Beliefs — Proverbs and sayings ... ... ... 141
CHAP. XVI. MONIAIVE.
Situation of the village — Meaning of name — Erection
into a free Burgh of Barony — Copy of Charter dated
1636 — Translation of Charter — Moniaive in 1790 —
Changes in the name — Streets, and their changes —
Bridges — Roadways — The " Craigengillan Coach " — Im-
pressions of Lord Cockburn — Story of Lord Brougham
— Other famous visitors and residents — Village worthies 148
CHAP. XVII. THE PRESENT TIME.
Aspect of Glencairn to-day — Improvements in Housing
xii. CONTENTS.
— Lighting — Water supply, &c. — Rural depopulation —
Decrease in Glencairn, and its causes — Rental of Parish
— Parish Council — Libraries — Ploughing Society — Horti-
cultural Society — Lodge of Oddfellows — Recreative
Clubs — Other institutions — The Post Office — The Cairn
Valley Railway— The Outlook 169
APPENDICES.
A. The Vertebrate Fauna of Glencairn 179
B. Flora, with List of finest Trees 186
C. Bibliography 197
INDEX.., ... ... . 215
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
Glencairn — From a painting by James Paterson,
R.S.A Frontispiece.
PAGE.
Map of Parish ... ... ... ... ... ...Facing 1
Stone Hammers 18
Tripod Ewer 30
Church Tokens 48 and 50
Martyr Stones in Glencairn Churchyard ... ... ... 60
Alexander Fergusson of Craigdarroch and Anna
Laurie ("Bonnie Annie Laurie") ... .. Facing 106
The Craigdarroch Whistle 128
" Carle " Candlestick, 19th century 147
Moniaive in 1790 ... ... ... ... ...Facing 156
The Jougs from Moniaive Cross ... ... ... ... 168
Moniaive from Dunreggan Hill ... ... ... Facing 169
CHAPTER I.— NAME AND TOPOGRAPHY.
THE name Glencairn — Celtic, Gleann-carn, glen of the cairn
or heap of stones — may almost be regarded as explain-
ing itself. Where the cairn that gave the parish its
name was situated is no longer known with certainty. Large
cairns formerly existed at Auchencheyne, at Crawfordton, and
at Waulkmill, near Moniaive, but practically all traces of these
have now disappeared. When the Waulkmill cairn was de-
molished, an urn of the usual cinerary type was found in the
interior. So far as we are aware, not even a fragment of this
interesting relic can be traced, but the known discovery of such
an object is valuable, for it lends probability to the assumption
that the large and important cairn at Waulkmill was the source
from which the parish derived its name.
Glencairn lies on the western border of Dumfriesshire, close
to the high mountain range that forms a natural boundary
between that county and Kirkcudbrightshire. It is bounded on
the north by the parish of Tynron, on the east by Keir, on the
south by Dunscore and Balmaclellan, and on the west by Dairy.
The extreme length of the parish is* fourteen and a half
miles, and its greatest breadth a little more than five miles.
The superficial area, according to information courteously
furnished by the Director-General of the Ordnance Surveys, is
30,239-050 acres. Of this, by far the larger portion is pastoral,
only about one-fifth being arable. The hills, with the exception
of a somewhat rugged heath-clad range that stretches along
the southern border, and forms a congenial haunt of the red
grouse, are green and undulating. Owing probably to their
bleached appearance in winter these grassy slopes are dis-
2 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
tinguished locally by the name "white ground." In the north
and north-west especially, considerable altitudes are attained.
Thus, Colt Hill in the north-west is 1961 feet, and Benbrack
in the west 1900 feet. Bogrie on the south rises to 1416 feet,
and Lagganpark on the east to 1171 feet. From all these
eminences extensive and pleasing prospects are obtained.
The main valley is traversed by the river Cairn. This
stream is formed out of three hill streams, named respectively
the Dalwhat Water, the Craigdarroch Water, and the Castle-
fairn Water, which unite a short distance below the village
of Moniaive. All these streams as well as the Cairn itself
are well-stocked with trout, and afford good sport to the
angler. The valley of the Cairn, although not wide, is highly
fertile. Rich grass and corn lands border on the river, and
extend far up the hillsides. Commodious farmhouses and tidy
cottages peep out on every side, while here and there a stately
mansion, embowered amid sheltering woods, imparts dignity to
the scene.
The narrower glens that open at the head of the main
valley are all beautiful. It is a beauty, however, that requires
to be sought. The mere passer-by would never suspect the
wealth of loveliness that lies hidden away amid these pastoral
solitudes. He who would enjoy their charm to the full must take
the stream for his guide and follow it in all its windings to the
f^ntain-head far up among the hills. If this be done, we can
promise him a feast of beauty that will linger long in the
memory.
It is in this portion of the parish that the finest sheep-walks
are to be found. The hills, even when they attain altitudes of
between one and two thousand feet, are green from base to
summit, and it is on these sloping pasture lands that the Black-
face and Cheviot sheep, for which the district is famous, are
reared. During the earlier portion of last century large numbers
of black cattle were bred on the same hills to supply the English
NAME AND TOPOGRAPHY. 3
meat markets, but as the trade was proving unprofitable they
were supplanted by sheep, which have since maintained their
supremacy.
Mineral springs of some local repute occur at several points
in the parish, notably, near the sources of the Glenjaan and
Dibbin burns, at Old Crawfordton, and at Billhead in the
neighbourhood of Moniaive. The Rev. Peter Rae, minister of
Kirkbride (1703-27) and of Kirkconnel (1732-48), writing of the
Old Crawfordton well, says: — "There is a physick well on
Crawfordton, about half-a-mile from that place, found to be
good for several diseases, as for pains in the stomach, heart-
burn, &c." (Rae MS.}
The climate is moist but salubrious. Geologically, the
parish is composed almost entirely of Silurian strata. Fossils
have been obtained in considerable numbers from certain bands
of black shales, and by means of these it has been found
possible to demonstrate the true order of succession of the beds.1
Traces of glacial action, in the form of striated rock surfaces and
boulder clay, abound. Moraine heaps are likewise numerous
along the sides of the valleys. No traces of coal have been found
in the parish, although the black shales, already referred to,
would seem to have been mistaken for members of the Carboni-
ferous system. Thus, the Rev. William Grierson, when writing
his account of the parish about 1792, says: — "Trials for coal
have been made in several places .... with a go^
prospect of success." Time, however, has shown the "good
prospect " to be wholly illusory.
About a mile to the north of Moniaive there is a curious
artificial excavation known as " Caitloch Cave." It is supposed
to have been made in search of lead, but no record of the opera-
tions has come down to us. The presence of " jumper " marks
1. See Geology of Dumfriesshire, by Messrs Peach & Home, in
The Flora of Dumfriesshire, by G. F. Scott-Elliot, M.A., F.L.S.,
F.R.G.S., pp. xxvii. to xxx vi,
4 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
proves that it belongs to a period subsequent to the date when
gunpowder was introduced for blasting purposes. As it was
not till the beginning of the seventeenth century that any very
active measures were taken to encourage the search for useful
minerals, the excavation probably belongs to some part of that
century. To-day the cave is chiefly famous as a reputed hiding-
place of the Covenanters. It measures one hundred and four-
teen feet in length, and opens on the Dalwhat stream, at a point
of great natural beauty, about a quarter of a mile to the east of
the mansion-house of Caitloch. When nearly opposite Caitloch
the Dalwhat Glen contracts into a narrow gorge, and as the
water frets and fumes in its rocky channel between banks
clothed with natural wood and a profusion of ferns, the scene is
one of remarkable beauty, and might well engage the brush of
the painter or the pen of the poet.
The parish is well wooded. Even in the seventeenth
century, when many parts of Scotland had been all but denuded
of trees, Glencairn would seem to have retained considerable
portions of its early forests. Thus, in Timothy Font's Map of
Nythesdail, supposed to have been completed between 1600
and 1610, although not published for nearly half a century
later, woods are represented as occurring to the north and west
and likewise to the south-east of " Dunrago " (Dunreggan).
Since Font's day large portions of waste or of semi-waste lands
Ifcve been planted, and at the present time Glencairn is one of
the most richly wooded parishes in the south of Scotland.
Many of the individual trees are of large growth, and as a
record of these may possess both a present and a future interest,
a tabular list of the more notable trees, with their dimensions,
has been printed as an addendum to the Flora. (See Appendix
C.)
Font's map is not only valuable as a guide to the sylvicul-
tural condition of the parish during the first decade of the seven-
teenth century; it also affords us almost the only reliable in-
NAME AND TOPOGRAPHY. 5
formation we possess regarding the distribution of the popula-
tion. Altogether fifty-nine names of places in the parish are
given by Pont, and the most of them, notwithstanding changes
in spelling, can still be recognised without difficulty. As the
names themselves are of interest, we append the full list,
arranged, for convenience of reference, according to the natural
divisions of the parish : —
1. MAIN VALLEY — Dunrago, Burnfoot, Mill, Hill, English-
toun, Blackston, Larburgh, Castlehills, Peiltoun, Glen-
kairn K., Shancastel, Maxweltoun, Glenkairn Cast.,
Mains, Krafurd, Consford, Dardarroch.
2. DALWHAT GLEN — Bardonoch, Barbuy, Bardannoch Mill,
Lagdaw, Kaitloch, N. Kaitloch, Tarrans, Dalwhat,
Schatheir, Drumlof, Marwhurn, Benbuy, Blarick, Kon-
rick, N. Dupein, O. Dupein, Marktowyr, Scklait, Korbe
Glenjan, Kordow.
3. CRAIGDARROCH GLEN — Xrichon, Dungelstoun, Kraig-
darroch, Celdsyd, Ballundny, Nise, Knokachle, Kraig-
lenan, N. Stronshelach, Auchenstrowan, O. Stronshelach,
Loshiningland, Chapelmark, O. Kraigleiran.
4. CASTLEFAIRN GLEN — Halfmarck, Kirkowbrik, Bortom,
Linarklat, Glencroish, Kraignesta, Hil of Threerigs,
Castelfurn.
A curious and yet on the whole exact description of Glen-
cairn, from an account drawn up by the Rev. William Black,
A.M., minister of Closeburn 1647-84, is contained in the Sibbald
MSS. (Advocates' Library, Edinburgh).
" This parish is large and lyeth on both sides of a little
river called Kairn, whence it hath its denomination, which
runneth from 3 several fountains in Galloway, the first on the
south side called Castlefairn Water, the second in the middle
called Craigdaroch Water, upon the brink of which stands the
House of Craigdarroch Fergusson : the third rivulet on the north
side is called Dowhat Water where stands the dwelling place of
6 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
a linage of the name of M'Gachen descended of one M'Gachen,
a private standart-bearer in the Bruces Wars, and doth yet
continue in the name. These 3 rivulets having run each of
them severall miles do all three meet in one water at Moniaive,1
a Burgh of Barony having a useful weekly mercat and some
fairs. These three rivulets conjoined make the River Kairn.
The parish by the running of the water running six miles down-
wards is divided into two parts, one in each side, and thereafter
running on the east part of it, it divides Glenkairn from Din-
score, and thereafter running by the parish of Holywood, it
divides Nidsdale from Galloway and continueth its course by the
parishes of Irongray and Teregglis, in Galloway, till it come to
the Col ledge of Lincluden, where it falls in with Nith.
" A little beneath Moniaive in this parish stands the Church
of Glencarne, situate at the foot of a high hill called the Dune
of Shankcastle, near to which also stands the Castle of Glen-
carne, anciently the dwelling place of the noble family of the
Cunigham's, Earles of Glencarne, who being superiour to the
whole parish, excepting a barony or two, did divide the pro-
perty amongst his Jackmen for the greater part of it, into several
tenements bearing the name of the first occupants, which
denominations, though the lands now be possessed by those of
other names, yet they do still retain as at first as Blackstown,
Stewartown, Gilmorestown, Gordonstown, Garrickstown, and
some others more, and it is probable that other places had the
like denomination, though now changed. At the Disposition of
the Superiority of this Parish, the Earle of Glencarne did
reserve the superiority of one room called Nether Kirkcud-
bright, which he yet retains, and at the Disposition of his own
1. In a map of the shire of Dumfries or Nithsdale by H. Moll,
Geographer, dated 1725, the Craigdarroch and Dalwhat streams
(the latter prematurely wearing the name of "Kairn") are shown
as uniting near " Burnfoot," while the " C. Fairne " runs apart
until nearly opposite " Glencairn," or Kirkland.
NAME AND TOPOGRAPHY. 7
property a little know near the Castle of Glencarne, which
castle with a considerable part of the parish doth now pertain
to Robert Laurie of Maxweltoun Baron of Straith, which makes
him capable of electing and being elected a Commissioner for
the Parliament."
Further references to the topography of Glencairn will be
found in Camden's Britannia, Chalmers's Caledonia, Sir John
Sinclair's Statistical Account of Scotland, and the New Statistical
Account of Scotland. The following idealised description of the
parish is from the late Rev. Dr Walter C. Smith's poem of
Borland Hall, published in 1874 :—
" As you come over the hill, a little way down, the road
Suddenly sweeps to the right, and lo ! a green valley and broad ;
Through it a river runs swift, its water broken by rocks
And boulders, cleaving its way as by rapidest bounds and
shocks ;
Now with a clear rush on, and now recoiling again
To wheel round the barrier huge it has hammered for ages in
vain,
Only dinting deep holes in its ribs, and chafing itself into foam,
Then swirling away to the bank to bite at the softer loam.
Yonder an old peel tower, hid in clumps of the ivy green,
Perched on its crag like an eyrie, and there the whole valley is
seen;
Not an approach south or north, east or west, but the watch-
man's eye
Would catch the sheen of the spears, and the banners would
well descry,
And sound the alarm in time for hoisting the drawbridge high.
***»**»
Far at the end of the valley, open three narrow glens,
Each with its own marked features, charactered clear as men's,
Each with its own fair water finding its fitting way,
8 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Rough o'er the rocky channel, or still by the broomy brae.
That to the left is rugged ; one side a bare bleak hill
With a cataract, rugged, of stones down-rushing as if they would
fill
The glen with grey desolation ; and half way down a thorn
Seems as it stayed the torrent, and was bent with the weight and
worn.
Only that thorn on the hillside grapples the stones with its root,
Only some scraggy hazel bushes straggle about its foot,
Only the curlew wails there, and the grouse-cock crows at morn :
Only the goat and the coney poise on those stony heaps,
Only the parsley fern along their barren spaces creeps.
And far below in the hollow the stream goes plunging on
From the rocky steep to the rocky pool, and the rumbling
boulder stone.
The middle glen is wooded ; there the ancient lords of the land,
Leaving their high-pitched eyrie, built a stately house and grand
Right under the Murrough-crag, pine-clad up to the top,
And they belted the woods all round them, and bade the high-
ways stop,
And they made them a goodly forest, stocked with the wild red
deer,
And they drew the stream into fishponds, and swept with their
nets the mere.
# *•**###
Fair is the glen to the right, in its pastoral beauty still,
Green in its holms and hollows, green to the top of each hill ;
A line of alder and drooping birch marks where its river flows,
But in its bare upper reaches only the juniper grows ;
The stream conies out of a tarn on the hill, whose oozy edge
Is fringed with a ring of lilies and an outer ring of sedge;
And there is no road beyond that, only a mountain high,
And a cairn of stones where the withered bones of the three
brave brothers lie."
NAME AND TOPOGRAPHY. 9
Truly, Glencairn is a land of romance and of beauty, a
land to reverence and to love. Its green pastoral hills and
wooded valleys may lack some of the grander aspects of Scottish
scenery, yet no fitter example could be found of the power of
Nature, as Wordsworth puts it,
" To impress
With quietness and beauty, and so feed
With lofty thoughts."
Surely there must be few parishes that awaken in the heart
of their children a more tender or a more enduring attachment
to the soil that gave them birth, and the scenes that kindled the
imagination of their youth.
CHAPTER II.— EARLY TIMES.
Our knowledge of the early history of Glencairn is extremely
meagre. That the district was early occupied by a rude and
warlike race is evidenced by the numerous cairns, camps, and
forts that lie scattered over our hills and valleys ; but who the
first settlers were, and by whom they were supplanted — for there
seems to have been a succession of peoples — we cannot say
with certainty. We know, however, that at the period of the
Roman invasion of Scotland, a Celtic people called the Selgovae
was established in the South, and it is to the place-names left
by this people that we owe nearly all the knowledge we possess
of our parish as it existed in early times.
The predominance of Celtic place-names in Glencairn is
very marked, not more than one-tenth being of Norse or Saxon
extraction. This probably implies that the hold of the invader
was less firm in Glencairn than it appears to have been in some
of the more accessible portions of Dumfriesshire to the south
and east. The four commonest Celtic prefixes in the parish
are — Glen, Craig, Sal, and Knock. These are closely followed
by Auchen and Dal, while Bar, Ben, Mar, and Minnie or Mony
are all frequent.
Some of these prefixes are full of interest. Thus, the
Auchens and the Dais tell us where the cultivated lands of the
parish were originally situated. In Glencairn we have three
Auchens and three Dais, namely — Auchencheyne, Auchenfedrig,
Auchenstroan, Dalwhat, Dalmacallan, and Daltammie; all of
them places, it may be observed, situated at moderate eleva-
tions, such as would be adapted to cultivation at a time when the
land was covered, for the most part, with swamp and natural
EARLY TIMES. 11
forest. Bal from baile, a town, farm, hamlet, or home, is
found in such names as Bellyboucht, Balinnie, Baltonne, Bal-
macane, etc., and indicates the situation of early dwellings.
Coming to the prefix Glen, we meet with an interesting word in
Glenwhisk. This is just the Gaelic gleann, a small valley, and
uisge, water; a name as truly descriptive to-day as when it was
first bestowed, perhaps two thousand years ago. Some place-
names testify to the presence of certain forms of animal life now
extinct in the district. Thus, Knockbrock is the badger's
knoll, and Dalwhat the field of the wild cat. Among other
names derived from the animal kingdom we have Craignee, the
craig of the deer, and Knockchouk, the knoll of the hawk.
Calmonel is probably reminiscent of St Colmanela, friend of
Columba, and Lochanbennet of St. Benedict. The name
Cloan, which we now find applied to a hill in Glencairn, is the
Gaelic cluain, a meadow. It affords a curious example of the
transference of a name to an object of an entirely different
character, for it has nothing to do with the hill near Shancastle,
but belongs to the meadow in the same neighbourhood.
We shall have occasion to refer to other place-names later
on. Meanwhile we pass to a particular account of the more
outstanding names, including a number that are now little
known, but that add to the record an interest of 'their own.
ALPHABETICAL LIST OF THE MORE INTERESTING PLACE-NAMES
OF GLENCAIRN, WITH SUGGESTIONS AS TO THEIR MEANING.
ABBREVIATIONS.
A.S., Anglo-Saxon. G., Gaelic. O.N., Old Norse.
Sc., Scots. W., Welsh.
AUCHENCHEYNE. — 1511, Auchincane ; 1549, Auchenyean; 1710,
Auchenchenne ; 1725, Auchenchean; 1856, Auchenchain.
Probably G., achadh-an-chain (e), field of the rent or
tribute.
12 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
AUCHENFEDDRICK. — 1671, Aucheiifedrig. Probably, field of
Patrick; G., achadh, a field, and Phadruig, Patrick.
AUCHENSTROAN. — Pont, 1610, Auchenstrowan ; G., achadh, a
field, and struan, streamlet = The field of the little
stream.
BALINNIE. — G., baile, hamlet or dwelling, and G., linne, a
pool.
BALMAKANE. — G., baile, hamlet or dwelling, + personal name
= Dwelling of the M'Kanes.
BALTONNE. — G., baile-duin, hamlet on the hill.
BARBUIE.— G., barr-buidhe, yellow height or extremity.
BARDANNOCH. — 1593, Bardannoch; 1610, Barnedannoche ;
1610, Pont, Bardonoch; 1720, Barndennoch. G., barr,
a height or hill. Suffix doubtful.
BELLYBOUCHT. — G., baile-bochd, poor town.
BELWINNOC. — Perh. G., baile, hamlet or dwelling + personal
name = hamlet of St. Winnoc.
BENBRACK. — G., beinn, hill or mountain + G., breac, speckled
= The speckled hill.
BENBUIE. — G., beinn-buidhe, The yellow hill.
BLAIROCH. — Perh. fr. G., liar, a plain, a place of peat mosses.
BLAWPLAIN. — An example of tautology. G., liar, a plain.
BORLAND. — Board or Mensal land — a form of tenure.
BRECONSIDE. — Prob. hybrid; W., brycin, a brake or forest.
CAITLOCH. — 1559, Cadhelaucht; 1587, Catloche; Camden,
circa, 1600, Castloch; Pont, 1610, Kaitloch; 1624,
Cadzelauch. The earliest spelling suggests G., cadhal-
ach, place of sleep.
CALMONEL. — 1671, Camanell. Prob. derived from St. Col-
manela.
CALSIDE. — 1687, Caulsyde. Possibly from G. cul, back,
therefore, back-lying place.
CAMBUSCAIRN. — G., camus, a bend, a crook, sig. bend or crook
of the Cairn (river).
EARLY TIMES. 13
CORSMOLLOCH. — W., cors, bog, fen + G. mullach, the top,
summit, or, alt., mollach, rough, shaggy.
CASTLEFAIRN. — G., caisteal, a castle, a tower, and fearna, the
alder tree = The castle or fortified tower by the alder
trees.
CLOAN. — G., cluain, a meadow.
CONRICK. — 1506, Conranche; 1580, Conrach; 1587, Comrik;
Pont., 1610, Konrick; 1671, Conrike; 1722, Conrig.
Doubtful. Perh. G. comar-ach, place of confluence.
CORANBAE. — 1727, Coranbay. G., coran-beith, bend or
crescent of the birches.
CORRIEDOW. — G., coire, circular hollow, a mountain dell,
and dubh, dark.
CRAGGANOCH. — G., creagan, rocks, sig. place full of little
craigs.
CRAIGDARROCH. — G., creag, a rock, a crag, and darach, an
oak = The rock of the oak wood.
CRAIGENBEAST. — G., creag-an-biast, the serpent's crag, or the
monster's crag.
CRAIGLEARAN. — 1621, Craiglerian; 1725, Moll's Map, Kraig-
leiran. Prob. G. creag + ladhar [pron. lear in the
North] with the diminutive an = crag of the little fork.
CRAIGNEE. — Craig of the deer. G., creag-dn-fiadh (fh lost
by aspiration).
CRAIGNESTON. — Possibly G. creag-an-easain, crag of the little
waterfall.
CRAWFORDTON. — Crawford's town or enclosure, from Saxon
tun, an enclosure, a dwelling, a termination frequent
in the parish.
CRECHAN. — A little boundary, or boundaries, fr. G. crioch, a
boundary.
CROSSFORD. — Corsford (17th century). Perh. G. cors, a bog,
a f en + ford.
14 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
CUBBOCKS. — Bent or hollowed place. G., cubach, bent,
hollowed.
DALMACALLAN. — G., dail, a field + personal name = field of
Macallan.
, DALTAMMIE. — Field of James; G., fSeamais.
DALWHAT. — Field or dale of the wild cat. G., dail, a field,
and chat, a cat.
DARDARROCH. — Oak grove. G., doire, a grove, and darach,
an oak.
DARNANGILL. — 1580, Darnagillie. Grove of the church or
churchyard. G., doire, a grove, and G. cille, church or
churchyard.
DIBBIN.— 1506, Divane; 1579, Dovane; 1610; Pont, and 1725,
Moll's Map, Dupein. G., dubh-bheinn, dark hill.
DRUMLOFF. — Perhaps G. druim, a ridge, and lobhtach, having
lofts or storeys.
DUNGALSTON. — Personal name + ton, place or dwelling.
DUNREGGAN. — 1581, Drumreggane. G., druim chreagan (ch
lost by aspiration), the craggy ridge, or ridge of the
crags.
FLEUCHLARG. — Wet hill-side. G., fleuch, wet, and learg, a
hill, a sloping hill.
GAPS MILL.— 1511, Colliegawpoch ; 1776, Capach Mill; 1827,
Gillygappoch Mill. G., coille ceapach, wood full of
tree stumps.
GIRHARROW. — 1856, Gairharrow. Doubtful. Perhaps G.,
garbh-airidh, rough sheiling or hill pasture.
GLENCROSH. — 1610, Font's Map, Glenkroish. The glen of
the cross, fr. G., gleann, a glen, and crois, a cross.
GLENGAIR. — The short glen. G., gleann-gearr.
GLENJAAN. — Probably the deep glen. G., gleann-domhain.
GLENRIDDLE. — From G., gleann, a glen, and Riddle, an ancient
family name.
EARLY TIMES. 15
GLENWHISK. — G., gleann, a glen, and uisge, water.
GOTAL (BURN).— Prob. fr. the old verb gothele (1290, Oxford
Diet.}, sig. a low mumbling noise.
GRAYNES OR GRAINS. — Prob. fr. O.N., greni, a branch; sig.
branches of the valley.
INGLESTON. — Homestead of Inglis, or of the Englishmen.
JARBRUCK. — Jargbruch (14th century). Prob. rough bank,
edge, or brim; G., garbhbruach.
KILNKNOW. — Old name of Hastings Hall. A kiln formerly
existed in the neighbourhood.
KIRKCUDBRIGHT. — Church of St. Cuthbert. A. S. Cudberct.
KIRKLAND. — Lands pertaining to the Church.
KNOCKAUCHLEY. — 1579, Knockhachill ; 1608, Knockauchy;
Pont, 1610, Knockachle. May be G., cnoc, a knoll,
and eachlaich, of the groom, or eachleighe, of the farrier.
KNOCKBROCK. — The badger's knoll. G., cnoc, a hillock, a
knoll, and broc, a badger.
KNOCKCHOUK. — The hawk's knoll. G., cnoc, a knoll, and
seabhac [shouk], a hawk.
KNOCKMALLIE. — Prob. G., cnoc, a hillock or knoll, and G.,
ntaol, bald, bare.
KNOCKSTRONY. — G., cnoc, hillock, and sron, nose, or sruan,
stream.
LAGDOW. — The black hollow. G., lag, a hollow, and dubh,
dark or black.
LAGGANPARK. — Park or field of the little hollow. G. laggan,
diminutive form of lag, a hollow.
LAIRMORE. — G., learg, a plain, or side of a 'hill, and mor, big.
LOCHANBENNET. — Lochlet of St. Benedict.
MARWHIRN. — Plain of the cairn. G. machair-a-chuirn.
MARGARDY. — Perh. plain of the garden or of the gardener, fr.
G. magh, a plain, and garadh, a garden.
MAXWELTON. — Personal name + /0« (A.S.), a dwelling.
16 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
«%
MINNYGRILE OR MoNYGRiLE. — 1511, Minnigryll ; 1549, Mynneis-
geill ; 1671, Minnygrill. Prefix G., monadh, a moor, or
moine, a moss; suffix doubtful, perh. G. griomail (m lost
by aspiration), grim, rugged, or barren.
MOATIE. — Prob. fr. G. mod, a court, an assembly.
MONIAIVE. — Many variants (see chap, xvi.) Prob. G. monadh-
abh, moor of the water or stream.
MULLWHANNY. — G., me all ', lump, a hill or eminence, and uaine,
green, or bhan, white.
NEISS OR NIESS. — 1610, Pont, Nise. A.S., nesse; Sc., nease,
nose.
NYPES (THE). — Little rocky hills. G., cnap, knob, knot,
button.
PEELTON. — G., peel, a stronghold.
PENTOOT. — Head of the rising ground. Welsh, penn-towt.
POWRAN. — 1580, Powrane. Accent not known. May be
Pictish, grazing land (Johnston), or G., poll (Sc. pow),
a pool, and rinn, a point. Less probably G., raineach,
fern.
SCLENERS OR SCHLENDERS. — Shingle on the face of a declivity.
Sc., S dithers. (Jamieson's Diet.).
SHANCASTLE. — Old castle. G., scan, old, and caisteal, a castle,
a stone fort.
SHAW. — A thicket, a wood. A.S., scaga.
SHIELD YKES. — Probably from Sc., shieling, shelter.
SHILLINGLAND. — Derived from old valuation.
SHINWALIE. — Old township or dwelling. G., sean, old, and
bhaile, dwelling.
SNADE. — Probably G., snathad, a needle.
STRAITH. — G., srath, a valley.
STRANSHALLOCH. — Pont, 1610, Stronshelach ; 1635, Stron-
shalloch. G., sron, nose or point, and seileach, willow
= point of the willows. Perh. sron, point, and sealladh,
prospect.
EARLY TIMES. 17
-
TEMPLAND. — Lands formerly owned by the Knights Templars.
TERERRAN.— 1511, Trorarane; 1610, Pont, Tarrans; 1671,
Terraren; 1747, Rae MS., Tarroran; Terorane. Prefix
prob. G. tir, land; suffix doubtful, perh. derived from
St. Ciaran.
THREERIGGS. — Sc., rig, ridge.
TWOMERKLAND. — Derived from old valuation.
URR. — Pre-Celtic word sig. water.
WAULKMILL. — Sc., wauk, to full or dress cloth.
WAAS. — Prob. A.S., waes, a moist meadow, hence applied to
places situated on low lands.
It must, unfortunately, be admitted, that through changes
in spelling and other causes, many of the meanings assigned to
these old place-names are more or less conjectural. There are
names, however, that have undergone few or no changes, and
it is a never-failing source of interest to observe the suitability
of these to the places upon which, in the far distant past, they
were bestowed.
........
CHAPTER III.— ANTIQUITIES.
Apart from place-names there is very little we are able
to glean concerning the early conditions of life in the parish.
No doubt the Wild Ox, the Bear, the Badger, the Boar, the
Wolf, the Red Deer, and the Beaver abounded in Glencairn as
in other parts of Britain; but out of the seven animals named
it is of two only that undoubted remains have been found. In
1886 a horn of the Wild Ox (Bos primigenius) was found
embedded in a peat moss not far from the north-western border
of the parish,1 and in 1908 an antler of a large species of Red
Deer was exposed in the bed of the Craigdarroch stream.
Various weapons and implements of stone have likewise been
discovered in the parish. Such remains are of the greatest
possible interest, for they tell us of a time when our parish was
STONE HAMMERS FOUND IN GLENCAIRN,
inhabited by a people who lived a nomadic life, and depended
for sustenance on their skill with bow and spear. It must,
however, be confessed that the number of such relics actually
found in the parish is by no means large. An annotated list
of what may be called portable relics will be found at the end
1. The Specimen is now in the possession of Mr Richard Hodgson,
Beverley.
ANTIQUITIES. 19
of the present chapter. Meanwhile we propose to describe
somewhat fully the more important remains of human occu-
pancy that are still to be met with in situ within the parish
boundaries.
CRANNOG AT LOCH URR.
Insulation on a natural or an artificial island in a lake
seems to have been the favourite means of defence in the days
when people had not learned to enclose themselves within stone
walls. Down to between forty and fifty years ago very little
was known about crannogs or lake-dwellings in Scotland, but
since that time a mass of information has accumulated which
enables us to form an idea, not only of the mode of their con-
struction, but also of the degree of civilisation that had been
attained at the period when they were in use. In view of the
importance that attaches to such structures, it is of interest to
know that the remains of a lake-dwelling are to be found at
Loch Urr, close to the southern border of the parish. During
the autumn of 1902 the writer had the honour of being asso-
ciated with Mr James Barbour, F.S.A. (Scot.), in conducting a
series of investigations into the character of the Loch Urr lake-
dwelling, on behalf of the Dumfriesshire and Galloway Natural
History and Antiquarian Society. The results, as embodied
in a report to the Society (see Transactions, 1902-3, pp. 242-6),
may be summarised as follows: —
Loch Urr, according to the O.S. Map, is 623-9 feet
above sea-level. Its area is 137-765 acres, of which 33*741
are in Balmaclellan, Kirkcudbrightshire; 33-125 in Glencairn,
Dumfriesshire; and 50-899 in Dunscore, Dumfriesshire. The
place that it fills in history is not large. It is mentioned in
Chalmers's Caledonia (Vol. II., p. 217), where the author lays
Symson's MS. Account of Galloway, 1684, under contribution;
in the Old and also in the New Statistical Account; in various
20 THE ANNALS OF GLEN CAIRN.
Gazetteers, notably Fullarton's (Vol. II., p. 789); and in
Munro's Ancient Scottish Lake Dwellings.1
So far as ascertained by the investigations the remains at
Loch Urr consist of —
(1) A gangway of stone 114 feet in length, entirely sub-
merged, and running in an oblique line from the shore to
a small island in the loch.
(2) An island, 66 feet in length by 33 feet in breadth, on the
line of the gangway.
(3) A second gangway of stone 56 feet in length, partially
submerged, and communicating with a second and
larger island.
(4) The principal island, 180 feet by 64 feet, with ruins of an
encircling wall and four walled dwellings.
The excavations were almost entirely confined to the larger
island. Two workmen, acting under directions, opened a
trench about four feet wide along the entire length of the
island. Portions of the walls that mark the four buildings
erected on the north side of the interior area were exposed to
the foundation. All the walls gave clear evidence of care in
construction, but no traces of mortar were visible. The
amount of debris found in the neighbourhood of the walls was
not large, and it is therefore probable that they had not been
carried to any great height, perhaps not more than three feet
at the most. The thickness is about two feet three inches.
All the material lying within one of the enclosures was removed,
without revealing, however, any features of special interest.
An outer wall, built of dry stone without mortar, like the inner
enclosures already mentioned, would appear to have encircled
the island. A fragment of this wall, still standing, measures
1. In addition to these references, an account of An Excursion to
Lough Urr in 1787 by Doctor Clapperton, M.D., is contained in the
Riddell Coll. of MSS., preserved in the Library of the Society of
Antiquaries, Edinburgh.
ANTIQUITIES. 21
four feet in height and six feet in thickness. Near the entrance
to the island additional stone-work, in the form of what may
have been rude buttresses, is found. This part of the defences
seems to have been carefully constructed, and must have formed
a formidable obstacle to an enemy attacking the stronghold from
the direction of the gangway.
EARTHWORK.
In addition to the island remains, there is an earthwork on
the mainland to the south. It consists of a well-defined ditch
and rampart thrown across the neck of a peninsula, and appears
to have been a work of importance. The length of the ram-
part may be stated approximately at five hundred feet. On
the west, where it is most entire, it rises above the present level
of the trench in front to a height of between eleven and twelve
feet. In the rear of the rampart a rough stone pavement ten
feet in width is found. As the stones composing this pavement
lie near the surface, they have the effect of altering the char-
acter of the vegetation, and in this way the pavement can be
traced along the greater part of the line of rampart. The
trench in front of the rampart is silted up to a depth of nearly
six feet. This fact is important, for it proves almost conclu-
sively that the point of land which we now know as a peninsula
was at one time an island, hence in all probability the name
" White Isle," which it still retains. There can be little doubt,
we think, that an intimate connection existed between the earth-
work and the lake-dwelling. The two are little more than
three hundred yards apart, and we know that fortifications on
land, adjacent to lake-dwellings, are a more or less constant
feature of such remains elsewhere. The relics found during
the progress of the excavations were very few. It is therefore
difficult to fix with certainty the period to which the Loch Urr
Crannog belongs. Dr Anderson, of the National Museum of
Antiquities, Edinburgh, founding upon certain fragments of
22 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
pottery, is disposed to think it may have been near the close of
the Roman occupation (410 A.D.), or perhaps a little later. In
view of this opinion, it is interesting to recall a legend, still
current in the district, that here a Roman cohort was sur-
rounded and starved into submission by a body of early Britons.
It need only be said that no one familiar with the ground will
be disposed to doubt the feasibility of the exploit.
CAMPS.
Two "camps" are marked on the 1-inch O.S. Map as
occurring in Glencairn, namely, " Snade Camp" and "Castle
Hill Camp." As the area of both entrenchments is small,
some might prefer to call them "forts." It will, however, be
convenient to adhere to the 1-inch Survey Map.
CAMP AT SNADE.
This circular, or nearly circular, entrenchment lies on the
western bank of the river Cairn, about three hundred yards
above the ford that crosses from Cambuscairn to Snade. It
presents several features of structural interest, and has been
described as " one of the most perfect examples of a British
camp to be found in the district." The Rev. Richard Simp-
son, B.D., Dunscore, in reporting upon the camp to the "Dum-
friesshire and Galloway Natural History and Antiquarian
Society ' ' says : — " Here no natural points of strength have
been seized and skilfully adapted for defence, but everything
has been laboriously constructed by the hand of man. . .
We found the form of the fort to be elliptical, or perhaps it
would be more correct to say that it is an irregular circle. The
longer diameter — 259 feet over all — runs nearly north and
south; and the shorter diameter — 253 feet — nearly east and
west. . . . The outer trench is both wide and deep. It
varies in width from 32 feet on the eastern side to 43 feet on
ANTIQUITIES. 23
the west — the narrowest part being nearest the river, and the
widest where the ground rises slightly above and overlooks the
entrenchment. Other measurements gave 38 and 39 feet on
the north and on the south. On these sides the depth does
not exceed a couple of feet, but the ground was too soft to
make sure. On the west we measured 10 feet 10 inches in
depth, not at the deepest part. On the east it appears to be
deeper still. . . . The rampart within this outer trench,
with its curved upper surface, measures 16 feet across on the
north, 15 feet on the west, 14 feet on the south, and 13 feet on
the east. It varies considerably in height, being loftiest on
the east and west. Within this rampart there is a second
trench, varying in width from 20 feet on the south and east to
24 feet on the north and 30 feet on the west. The depth of
this ditch will be about 5 feet, and less than that in some
places. . . . The level area so thoroughly defended is not
of great extent. It measures 108 feet from north to south, and
barely 100 feet (a measurement taken by the writer gave 98
feet) from east to west."
CAMP AT CASTLE HILL (DALWHAT GLEN).
Castle Hill camp or fort is situated near Drumloff, about
four and a half miles north of Moniaive, on an eminence 1081
feet above sea-level. It measures upwards of 1000 feet in
circumference, and is the largest as well as the loftiest defensive
work in the parish. The central area is flat, and measures 281
feet in length by 173 in breadth. The defences consist of two
lines of trenches with ramparts formed out of the excavated
soil. On the north and north-west both the ditches and the
ramparts are well defined, but at other points on the south and
east they are far from distinct. The form of the work is quasi-
rectangular, and in all probability that is the reason why it has
been ascribed to the Romans (see Monteith's The Parish of
24 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Glencairn, pp. 7-8). So far as we are aware, no Roman
remains have been found on the site of the earthwork, and,
although a fragment of a reputed Roman roadway exists in the
neighbourhood, the evidence connecting the position with
occupation by the legions is extremely slight.
In the 6-inch O.S. map, which contains details not to be
found in the 1-inch map, three other works of a defensive
character are recorded, viz. : —
(1) "Earthwork," near Birkshaw.
(2) "Mote," near Shancastle.
(3) "Mote and Bow-Butts," near Jarbruck.
The earthwork at Birkshaw has suffered so much from
natural decay that it is now difficult to form an opinion as to
its size and character. We propose, therefore, to confine our
attention to the motes at Shancastle and Jarbruck, both of which
are in a good state of preservation.
MOTE AT SHANCASTLE.
This small mote is situated on the right-hand side of the
road from Moniaive to Dumfries, directly opposite the entrance
to the farmhouse of Shancastle. It occupies a natural knoll,
and is strengthened on the north, where nature is weakest, by
two trenches backed by earthen ramparts. The summit is level
and measures 74 feet by 64 feet. From this platform the
ground slopes abruptly to the trenches, which are about 15 feet
in width and 2| feet in depth. Stones protrude from a tree-
planted ridge on the west, but it is difficult to ascertain the
significance of these owing to the presence of a network of roots.
The position overlooks a wide expanse of country, especially to
the north and west, and — what is of interest to note — commands
the Cloan pass as it opens on Glencairn from the Valley of the
Shinnel.
ANTIQUITIES. 25
JARBRUCK MOTE.
Jarbruck mote or mound, known also as the " Bow-butts of
Ingleston," forms a prominent feature in the landscape about a
mile and a-half to the east of Moniaive. It is of an oblong
form, and has at each end an earthen turret cut off from the
main body by a deep trench. The length of the central portion
is 220 feet, and the height 34 feet. The breadth varies from
40 feet at the eastern end to 90 feet at the western. The
eastern turret is not more than 30 feet in height, but the western
turret rises to a height of 44 feet with a diameter at the top of
32 feet. On the south-west there is a well-defined roadway
giving access to the mound. It is about 150 feet in length by
12 feet in breadth, and has ridges of from 2-3 feet in height
along each side.
Numerous conjectures have been made as to the original
design of the mound. Grose, the antiquary, writing in 1789,
adopts an opinion apparently current in his day, that the mote
had been raised to serve as an arena for the practice of archery.
The late Mr William Bennet, a native of Glencairn, falls foul
of Grose for this, and contends that it marks the last resting
place of an Arch-Druid. The late Rev. John Monteith ascribes
the mound to the Romans (see The Parish of Glencairn, p 8),
while a recent writer, the Rev. Dr J. King Hewison, of
Rothesay, believes it to have been formed by the Normans. So
far as the tradition adopted by Grose is concerned, it is by no
means improbable that the mound may have been resorted to
in feudal times for the practice of archery. We know that the
Scottish Parliament was extremely anxious to encourage the use
of the bow, and that an Act was passed providing for the erec-
tion of bow-butts in the neighbourhood of parish churches, to
which all men between the ages of sixteen and sixty were
required to repair at stated intervals. It is unlikely, however,
that the mound was originally designed for such a use. We
26 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
think it is a natural mound adapted to a defensive rather
than a recreative purpose, but in the absence of an exhaustive
survey accompanied by excavation it is impossible to speak
with certainty. Dr David Christison, writing of this class of
remains, says : —
" The study of Scottish motes has yet to be made from the
foundation. History is silent concerning their use, and no
general account of their nature, number, and distribution exists.
An unfortunate complication is the difficulty of distinguishing
between motes, or fortresses, and moot-hills, or meeting places.
Not only is the resemblance between the words mote and moot
very close, although they are derived from very different roots
— the one signifying ' dust ' and the other ' an assembly ' — but
it extends to the objects themselves, both consisting essentially
in little eminences, natural or artificial. ... It may well
be that as far as structure goes the motes and forts pass into
each other by insensible gradations."
The mound stands on a part of the Crawfordton estate.
From the top the turrets of Crawfordton mansion-house may be
seen about half a mile to the northward, and the old and the
new are thus brought into intimate relationship.
OTHER DEFENSIVE WORKS.
Two other works, which are not marked on either the
1-inch or the 6-inch O.S. Map, call for notice. The larger of
these is situated about a quarter of a mile to the east of Max-
welton House. It occupies the south-east corner of what is
called the " Horse Park, ' ' and lies close to the roadway that
connects the Clean road with the Dumfries road. The work
is elliptical in form, and measures 198 feet in length by 144
feet in breadth. The defences consist of two lines of rampart
composed partly of earth and partly of stone. The area within
the inner rampart is small, measuring only 26 feet by 24 feet.
ANTIQUITIES. 27
An interesting feature of this part of the defences is that
stone has been used to a much larger extent than is usual in
works of a similar kind in other parts of the parish. The
entrance has probably been from the south-west, but this cannot
be stated with certainty, as the outlines of the work are obscured
at this particular point by a plantation of young trees and a
rank undergrowth of herbage.
The smaller work is situated on the opposite bank of the
river Cairn about one-eighth of a mile to the east of Old Craw-
fordton. Both its position and its appearance suggest a defen-
sive purpose. It is circular in form and has a diameter of sixty-
six feet. The single rampart by which it is inclosed is composed
of earth and stone, and is well-defined, although it does not rise
to more than two feet above the present level of the ground
forming the interior. An opening to the south probably marks
the point of entrance. The central area, except for slight
inequalities due to the presence of small heaps of stones, is flat.
It is noteworthy that this work is situated almost midway between
Maxwelton fort on the east and Shancastle mote on the north,
and that all three positions command the important Cloan pass.
The Rev. Peter Rae (1671-1748) thinks it probable that the
Boon of Shancastle, which rises in the same neighbourhood, was
a Roman Castellum or Out Camp, " designed to keep the
highway leading to Tibbers (Penpont parish) from the lower
parts of Nithsdale and Galloway." But this may be regarded
as largely conjectural. Certainly if the Boon ever possessed
features to justify such an opinion they have now entirely dis-
appeared.
Belonging to a comparatively recent period we find in
Glencairn the remains of a number of " keeps ' ' or fortified
towers such as were possessed by nearly every feudal baron.
Eight of these may be counted within as many miles. Five are
in ruins, viz., at Snade, Breconside, Old Crawfordton, Peelton,
28 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
and Jarbruck. Happily, a kinder fate has attended the keeps
of Maxwelton, Caitloch, and Craigdarroch, all of which have
been transformed into handsome modern mansion-houses.
CAIRNS.
In addition to the large cairns mentioned in an earlier
chapter, a number of small cairns — if we may apply that name
to mounds often partly composed of earth — are to be found
scattered here and there over the more hilly portions of the
parish. The largest congeries of these — certainly upwards of
a hundred — is to be found at Girharrow. Smaller groups
occur near Auchencheyne, Craiglearan, Castlehill, Crossford,
Dalwhat, Lochurr, Jarbruck, and Woodhead. Kistvaens have
been found, probably on sites formerly occupied by cairns, at
Meikle Stewarton (see Riddell MSS., 1790) and at Girharrow
(circa 1854).
That the small cairns, like the large cairns and tumuli,
were places of sepulture can scarcely be doubted, and the
frequency with which such remains occur in Glencairn testifies
to the presence of a numerous population long prior to the
introduction of Christianity.
ANNOTATED LIST OF PORTABLE RELICS.
SMOOTHING AND IRONING STONE. — Of heavy spar, quadrangular
in shape, 5J inches long, from Glencairn. (This specimen
is figured in the Catalogue and Proceedings of the Society
of Antiquaries.) — National Collection, Edinburgh.
BALL OF GREENSTONE. — 3J inches in diameter, found in Glen-
cairn.— Grierson Museum Collection.
STONE WHORLS. — Two, one ornamented, found in Glencairn. —
Grierson Museum Collection.
ANTIQUITIES. 29
QUERN STONE. — Under-stone of a quern found in a field near
Minnyhive. Presented by Mr Samuel Proudfoot, Waulk-
mill, February, 1869. — Grierson Museum Collection.
UPPER PORTION OF ANCIENT STONE CROSS. — Found in Glen-
cairn. — Grierson Museum Collection.
SCULPTURED STONE PILLAR. — Supposed to have been removed
from near Stroanf reggan, Kirkcudbrightshire ; now standing
in garden grounds at Hastings Hall, Moniaive. — Proprietor,
James A. Mather, Esq.
STONE HAMMER. — Small perforated, 4£ by 2^- inches, found
near Auchenstroan, Glencairn, May, 1907. — The property
of Mr Augustus Hislop.
FLINT FLAKES, showing traces of secondary working, found near
Moniaive, 1910. — Mr John M. Corrie, Dumfries.
OTHERS (IN THE POSSESSION OF THE AUTHOR).
STONE HAMMER. — Perforated, found at Moniaive, 1909.
Length, 5£ inches; breadth, 3£; thickness, If. The
perforation is If inches at the surface, narrowing to y^
inches.
STONE HAMMER. — Large perforated, found near Castlehill,
Glencairn, in 1896. Length, 7 inches; breadth, 3| inches;
thickness, 3 inches; weight, 4 Ibs. If ozs.
BUTT-END OF PERFORATED STONE HAMMER. — 4£ inches in
breadth, found near Benbuie, Glencairn, 1904.
OVOID STONE. — 3f by 2| inches, grooved longitudinally on both
sides, presumably from use as a point-sharpener. 1895.
ANVIL STONE. — Found near Gaps Mill, Glencairn, 1904.
ADDER BEAD. — Found in Glencairn.
HOLED CHARM STONES. — Two, Glencairn.
30 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
HAMMER STONES. — Various types, found in Glencairn.
STONE WHORLS. — Various, found in Glencairn.
QUERNS. — Several, found in Glencairn.
TRIPOD EWER. — Found near the south-western border of the
parish in 1885.
ANTLER OF RED DEER. — Found in bed of Craigdarroch stream,
near Moniaive, 1908.
THIPOD EWEK.
CHAPTER IV.— VALUATION.
Of the civil history of the parish prior to the sixteenth
century very little information is available. In the Tax Roll of
1554 the "Barony of Glencairn " is valued at £120 pounds
Scots (£10 sterling). Other properties in the district are
entered at equally low valuations. It is probable, however,
that the figures given do not represent the actual yearly value
of the lands mentioned, but merely the ratable value placed
upon them by their owners. The first serious attempt to pre-
pare a reliable Roll of the Shire of Dumfries appears to have
been made in 1667. Great pains, we are told, were taken to
render the Roll of 1667 as complete as possible. Notwith-
standing this, it was soon discovered to be extremely erroneous
and defective. A special Act authorising corrections was
accordingly passed by the Privy Council, and on the 7th May,
1671, the Commissioners of Supply made up and certified a new
Valuation Roll, differing materially from the former one. As
this early roll contains much that is of interest to present-day
residents in the parish we print it in extenso side by side with the
modern roll of 1827.
ANCIENT VALUATION.
PARISH OF GLENCAIRNE.
Maxweltoune's lands, viz. : — The Four merk and halfe
merkland of Auchenstrowan, The Three merkland of
Baltonne, The Twa merkland of Craiglirian, The Twa
merke halfe merkland of Mairtour, The Twa merk-
land of Drumloaff, The Twa merk halfe merkland
of Burnfoot, The Three merkland of Hill, The Fyftie
shillingland of Peilstoune, The Three merkland of
Shankistoun, The Fyve merkland of Maxwell toun,
The Three poundland of Belliboucht and Corsfoord,
The Threttie shillingland of Braikensyd, The Fourtie
ehillingland of Straithhead, The Fourtie shillingland \
32 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Mks. s. d.
of Aucheufedrig, The Fourtie shillingland of Dar-
darroch, The halfe merkland of Clanstoune, The
Tvva merkland of Castlefairne, The Milne, The
merkland of Little Laggan, The merkland of
Meikle Laggan, The Twa merkland of Gordiestoune 3,400 0 0
The Lands pertaining to Robert Fergusson of Craig-
darroch, The Four merkland of Jedburghe, Lochan-
bennet, and Damacullen, Craigdarroch Milne and
Lagdow, The Twa merkland of Moss and Graynes
and Coatrnantack, The land called the Twentie
shillingland, The Three merk halfe merkland
of Chapelmark and Corrodow, The Twa merk halfe
merkland of Cornbie, The Twa merk halfe merkland
of Conrike, The Twa merk halfe merkland of
Blairoh, The Twa merk halfe merkland of Benbowie,
The Twa merk halfe merkland of Barnbowrie, The
Threttie-twa shillingland of Craigdarroch, The
Twentie shillingland of Neise, The Fyve merkland of
Barndarroche, Over Caitloch, Camanell, and merk-
land of Dungalstoune ... 1,500 0 0
The Lands pertaining to John M'Gachan, The Twa
merk halfe merkland of Dalwhat head, The merkland
of The Mayns of Dalwhat, The Twa merk halfe
merkland of Mairwhairne ... ... ... ... 562 0 0
The Lands pertaining to Inglestoune, The merkland
of Kirkland, The merklands of Gilmourstoune, The
Twa merkland of Mid Inglestoune, The halfe merk-
land pertaining to him, The Milne of Twa merkland 657 6 8
The Over merkland of Kirkland 90 00
The Twa merkland of Birkshaw 122 6 8
The Fourtie shilling land of Freuchlarg 200 0 0
The Twa Merkland of Nether Inglestoune 300 0 0
The land pertaining to James Craik, The Threttie
shilling land of Compstoune, The Milne c;f Snaid, The
Twa merkland of Coatstoune, The Twa merkland of
Keulstun, The merkland of Gaitsyd and merkland of
Mossettstoun, The merkland of the Twa merkland
and merkland of Stuartoune 775 0 0
The Twa merkland of Cleughsyd and Lairmore, The \
Twa Merkland of Claak, Kidstoune, and Brattle- L
stoune J 250 0 0
The merkland of Netherclaak, pertaining to Bogrie ... 20 0 0
The Laird of Crawfurdfcoun's haill lands besyd his
lands purchased from Stuartoun 600 0 0
VALUATION. 83
1
Iks.
s.
d.
The Twa merkland of Blackstouiie
150
0
0
The Three poundland of Auchencheyne
300
0
0
The merke halfe merkland of Dibbin
Che merkland of L/ochwhir ...
160
180
0
0
0
o
The Twa merkland of Minnygryll, and Twa Merkland \
of Kirkcudbright, Nether Caitloch, and Twa merk (.
halfe merkland of Dunreggin ... ... ... ••• )
475
o
0
The Twa merkland of Craignestin, and Twa merkland
of Threerigs
337
o
o
The Twa merkland of Glencrosh ...
165
0
0
The merkland of Nether Kirkcudbright
135
0
0
The Threttie shilling land of Creichen and Boddom ...
300
0
0
The Threttie shilling land of Braickensyd
90
0
0
The Threttie shillingland of Calsyd
187
G
8
The Twa merk halfe merkland of Glengaer ... ...
The Fyve merkland of Terraren ...
200
312
0
G
0
8
The lands of Snaid, Borland, Gerristoune, and Shaw...
The merk land of Knockauchley ...
447
150
0
0
0
u
Suma ... ... 12,056 0 0
Twelve Thousand and fyftie-six merks.
MODERN VALUATION.
Particular Val. Total.
Robt. Cutlar Fergusson of Orroland and
Craigdarroch.
Craigdarroch Mains, Dungalston,
and Ewanston 242 6 8
Thirty-shillingland of Creechan
and Boddam 273 0 0
Thirty-shillingland of Callside ... 187 6 8
Marwhirn 154 0 0
Craigdarroch Parks, being Chappel-
merk and Twenty-shillingland of
Camonel 112 6 8
Nether Tack 27 0 0
Upper Caitloch and Caitlochpark 20 0 0
Part of Marwhirn 20 0 0
1,036 6 8
34 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Particular Val. Total.
Jas. Walker of Crawfurdton.
The Laird of C.'s hail Lands,
exclusive of the Lands purchased
from Stewarton 600 0 0
Two merkland of Cleughside and
Lairmore, and Two-merkland of
Claak, Kidston, and Brattleston 250 0 0
Stewarton, holden of Duke of
979 0 0
Buccleuch and Queeneberry
89
0
0
Westside of Merkland of Kirkland
20
0
0
Easfcside thereof
- 20
0
0
Rear-Admiral Sir Robt. Laurie of
Maxwelton, Bart.
Maxwelton
259
6
8
Shancastle or Shankieston
151
G
8
Bankhead or Auchenfeddricks
151
3
4
Straith or Straithhead
131
0
0
Bellybuchts
121
0
o
Corseford
111
o
0
Walliston
50
5
4
975 8 8
Society for Propagating Christian Know..
Twomerkland, Gateside, Moffats-
toun, Keulston, Coatstoun,
Compstoun, and Miln of Snaid,
holden of the Crown J 686 0 0
Borland, and remainder of Snaid 235 0 0
921 0 0
Jno. Barber of Terarran.
Five-merkland of Terraran ... 312 6 8
Benbuie and Cornbie 212 0 0
Martour and Little Dibbon ... 175 0 0
699 6 8
Trustees of Wm. Forbes of Callander.
Auchenstroan and Stranshalloch... 282 6 8
Castlefairn 252 0 0
Neiss and Ballinnie 151 6 8
686 0 0
Wm. Collow of Auchenchain.
Three-merkland of Auchenchain ... 300 0 0
Two-merkland of Craigneeton ... 200 0 0
Two-merkland and Miln thereof ... 129 6 8
Half -merkland 5000
679 6 8
VALUATION. 35
Particular Val. Total.
Trustees of Bobt. Gillespie of Peelton.
Hill or Gillygappock, with Miln
and Miln Lands of Gillygappock 290 0 0
Part of Peelton 151 10 8
Half of Dunreggan, called Burn-
foot, and the whole of Templand
Meadow 131 1 0
572 11 8
Robt. Kennedy of Craigshiel.
Mains of Dalwhat and Dalwhathead 268 0 0
Drumloff 151 0 0
419 0 0
Robt. Welsh of Collin.
Shaw, Gairriston, and part of Snaid 212 0 0
Gilmerstoun 138 0 0
350 0 0
Rev. Thos. Gibson of Glencrosh.
Twomerkland of Glencrosh 165 0 0
Merkland of Threerigs 137 0 0
302 0 0
Rev. Dr Alex. Scot of Over Ingleston.
Mid and Over Ingleston 300 0 0
Mrs Smith.
Twomerkland of Nether Ingleston 300 0 0
Gilbert Collow of Blackstone.
Blackstone 150 0 0
Over Kirkcudbright 135 0 0
285 0 0
Arch. Wallace of Conrick.
Conrick 138 0 0
Meikle Dibbon, and Holm of Little
Dibbon 138 0 0
276 0 0
Wm. Smith of Glenjaan.
Two-merk Half-merkland of Glenjaan 200 0 0
Heirs of Jas. and D. Wallace.
Forty-shillingland of Fleuchlarg 200 00
Alex. Smith and W. M'Call.
Nether Caitloch and Dunreggan 186 0 0
Robt. Kirk of Craiglirian.
Craiglirian 181 10 0
36 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Particular Val. Total.
Heirs of Wm. Martin of Dardarroch.
Dardarroch ••• 180 11 0
Alex. Moffat of Lochurr.
Merkland of Lochurr ... 180 0 0
Heirs of Wm. Niocol of Laggan.
Meikle and Little Laggan ... ••• 176 6 8
Miss Dobie of Breconside.
Breckonside ••• 171 6 0
Walter Stewart of Graynes.
Part of Neisekiln, Damhouse, Nei&e
Parks, Craigdarroch Miln Lands,
Waulkmiln and Feu Duties of
Minyhive 109 5 8
Part of Graynes, and Feu Duties of
Minyhive ... ... ... ... 56 6 8
165 12 4
Alex. Smith of Land.
Two-merkland of Minnygryle ... 154 0 0
Jas. Smith of Jedburgh.
Over-merkland of Kirkland ... 90 0 0
Jerburgh 63 0 0
153 0 0
Jas. Goldie of Knockauchly.
Merkland of Knockauchly 150 0 0
David Hastings of Corrodow.
Corrodow 140 0 0
Heirs of Mrs Wilson.
Merkland of Nether Kirkcudbright 135 0 0
Alex. Moffat of Barbuie.
Two-merk Half-merkland of Bar-
buie or Benbuie 102 6 8
Part of Barndannoch 23 0 0
Part of Kilnknow 334
128 10 0
John Waugh.
Part of Dalwhat, called Holmhead 120 0 0
John Wallace.
Blairoch HO 0 0
Jas. Coreon of Peelton
Part of Peelton HO 2 8
VALUATION. 37
Particular Vol. Total.
Thos. Moffat.
Barndannoch ... ... ... ... ... 93 6 8
Jas. Anderson of Stroquhan.
Gordiestoun .................. 90 10 0
Jas. Hastings.
Part of Neisekiln, Damhouse,
Neise Parks, Craigdarroch Miln
Lands, Waulkmiln, and Feu
duties of Minyhive ... ... 63 4 4
Part of Kilnknow ......... 10 6 8
John Caven.
Part of Two-merkland of Birkehaw ... ...
Thos. Johns tone.
Another part thereof ... ... ... ...
Thos. Black.
Clarenston ..................
Jas. Niven.
Part of Two-merkland of Birkshaw ......
John and Jas. Haining.
Merkland of Nether Claak, pertaining to Bogrie
Total valuation of the Parish of Glencairn 12,056 0 0
Twelve Thousand and fifty-six merks.*
Minister's stipend, £272 Os 4d, and £8 6s 8d for Communion
elements. The Teinds are exhausted.
Last augmentation dated 24th Jany., 1821.
School salary, 600 merks.
* Merk, equal to 13s 4d Scots, or 13gd sterling.
As Rolls of later date are easily accessible, they do not
call for notice here. Suffice it to say that the valua-
tion of the parish according to the returns for 1909-10, is
£14,506 8s 7d. Value of railways, etc., £201. Total,
£14,707 8s 7d.
*
CHAPTER V.— THE CHURCH BEFORE THE
REFORMATION.
Although Christianity is believed to have been introduced
into the South of Scotland in 397 A.D., the condition of
anarchy that followed the withdrawal of the Roman power early
in the fifth century had all but extinguished the light of Gospel
truth when Cuthbert, a devout monk of Melrose, appeared
(A.D. 635-87) to fan the flickering flame. " This zealous
missionary," says Bede, "sought out those remote villages
which were situated far from the world in wild mountain places
and fearful to behold, and which as well by their poverty as
by their distance up the country prevented intercourse between
them and such as could instruct their inhabitants." In the
course of his arduous and self-denying labours Cuthbert pene-
trated into the country of the Picts of Galloway, and it is
certainly a matter of no little interest that, despite the lapse of
more than twelve hundred years, our parish still retains distinct
traces of his presence. In the Castlefairn valley, about a mile
south-west of Moniaive, may be seen the site of Saint Cuthbert's
chapel, or cell (see O.S. map), and the associations of the
spot with that early apostle are further emphasised by the
j)lace-names " Kirkcudbright " (Church of Saint Cuthbert) and
" Glencrosh " (Glen of the Cross), which occur in the near
neighbourhood. In all probability these names mark the place
of the first Christian church in the parish, and thus point to
the permanent establishment of Christianity. From time im-
memorial the Castlefairn valley must have been the natural line
of communication in passing from Dumfriesshire to Galloway;1
1. In a document of the thirteenth century (Lib, de Melros)
reference is made to the "king's highway" (regia via) leading from
Dercongal on to Glencairn, and thence, it may be presumed, into
Galloway.
THE CHURCH BEFORE THE REFORMATION. 39
and it may well be that at this particular spot Saint Cuthbert
rested in the course of his journeyings, and that the place was
afterwards consecrated by devoted followers to his memory.
About three miles further westward, just beyond where Glen-
cairn marches with the parish of Dairy, another early chapel
must have existed, for a portion of the lands of Lochrennie
bears the name "Chapelrig," and in the neighbourhood of a
perforated standing-stone — itself, in all probability, a memorial
of a still earlier form of worship— there was until recently a
heap of debris, to which tradition points as marking the site
that the chapel occupied.
For several centuries subsequent to the death of Saint
Cuthbert we know very little about the history of our own
country in general and absolutely nothing about what we now
call Glencairn. "It is somewhat astounding," as Hill Burton
observes, " to reflect on so enormous a blank in the annals of a
nation's religion, but it is perhaps reassuring — it is certainly a
matter of great interest in itself — that during that long period
of obscurity Christianity lived on." In the twelfth century light
begins to break through the darkness, and it is then that Glen-
cairn emerges to take a place in the national annals.
About the year 1116 David I. of Scotland caused an
inquisition to be made by " the older and wiser men of Cambria ' '
respecting the ancient possessions of the See of Glasgow, when
it was found that certain churches in Dumfriesshire belonged by
right to that See. The authority of the Episcopate of Glasgow
over the parishes of Eskdale, Ewisdale, Drivesdale, Annandale,
Glencarn, and Stranith, with a part of Cumberland, was accord-
ingly confirmed in Pope Alexander's bull to Joceline, the Bishop
of Glasgow, during the year 1178, and it was reconfirmed by
Pope Lucius in 1181, and by Pope Urban in 1186. David's
benefactions to the Church procured for him canonization as a
saint, but this did not save him from the reproach of a sue-
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
cessor, who, on discovering the impoverished condition of the
royal exchequer, declared that he was " ane sair sanct for the
crown." It was during the reign of David I. that the celebrated
order of the Templars or Red Friars acquired possessions in
the south-west districts of Scotland. Their presence and influ-
ence in Glencairn is attested by references in old records to
"the Temple-lands of Ingleston," and "the Acres of the Temple-
land meadow." It is of interest to find that the latter descrip-
tion still lingers in an attenuated form in the field-name " The
Acres," as applied to a portion of land on the Crawfordton
estate, situated to the north-east of Dunreggan.
Generally speaking, very little is known concerning the
Catholic clergy who officiated in particular parishes in pre-
Reformation days. In many instances not even their names
have been preserved. Glencairn, happily, has been more for-
tunate. On the 19th of July, 1319, we find " Glencarne " men-
tioned as receiving a presentee from King Edward II. (Bain's
Calendar of Documents Relating to Scotland, vol. iii.), and in
the Calendar of Entries in the Papal Registers we meet with
frequent references to men who celebrated the rites of religion in
our parish more than 500 years ago. All the entries in the
Papal Registers are full of interest.
"To John de Peblis, M.A., Provision of a canonry of
Glasgow, with expectation of a prebend, notwithstanding that
he has the church of Glenqwym (identified with Glencairn, Co.
Dumfries, in index) in the same diocese." — Letters, Vol. III.
(Innocent VI.) 1355. 4 Non. Sept.
"Brice Ker, M.A., and S.C.L., for the church of Glen-
karne, in the diocese of Glasgow, value 30/, void by reason that
William de Houdesay has held it for many years without re-
ceiving holy orders, notwithstanding that Brice has the vicarage
of Gamerin, in the diocese of Aberdeen, distant one hundred
and sixty leagues from his birthplace, which he is ready to
THE CHURCH BEFORE THE REFORMATION. 41
resign, and has papal provision of a canonry of Glasgow, with
expectation of a prebend." — Petitions, Vol. I. 1363. (Pope
Urban V.) Granted Avignon, 15 Kal. Feb.
" The university of Paris. On behalf of John de Trebrona,
M.A., of the Scottish nation, for the canonry and prebend of
Inchemacgrany in Dunkeld, value 6 merks, void by the death
of Robert de Den, notwithstanding that he has provision of the
church of Glenkaryn, in the diocese of Glasgow, of which he
has not yet possession." — 1364. Petitions, Vol. XL. (Pope
Urban V.) Granted Avignon, 4 Kal. May.
"William de Trebron, M.A., bachelor of theology of the
third year, envoy from the king of France to the king of Scot-
land. For a canonry of Glasgow, with expectation of a
prebend, notwithstanding that he has the church of Glenkarne,
in the same diocese, value 20/, which he is ready to resign." —
1378. Petitions. (Clement VII., Anti-Pope.) From the Roll
of the University of Paris. Granted Fondi, 3 Kal. Dec.
(The Roll of Masters of the College of the Sorbonne, Paris,
describes him as "priest," and "prior in the Sorbonne," and
gives the date 11 Kal. Dec.)
" William de Glendonvin, of the diocese of Glasgow, M.A.,
bachelor of canon law, kinsman of Simon de Mundavilla. For
the archdeaconry of Glasgow and annexed prebend, value 200/,
void by the death of Simon de Mundavilla at the Roman court,
notwithstanding that he has the church of Glencarn, in the said
diocese, and the canonry and prebend of Renfrew in the same,
value together 140/. He is ready to resign the canonry and
prebend."— 1409. Petitions. (Benedict XIII., Anti-Pope.)
Granted a disposition to William to hold the archdeaconry,
together with the said church. Barcelona, 3 Id. Nov. an 16.
" To William de Glendonwyne, rector of Glencarne in the
diocese of Glasgow, licentiate of civil law. Dispensation to
him (who is licentiate of civil law by examination, M.A., and
42 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
bachelor of canon law, and is of noble birth, and holds besides
Glencarne, Aberdeen and Tours, value together not exceeding
£80 sterling) to hold for life together with the said church any
other benefice with cure, etc., as before, f. 11, mutatis mutandis.
Nobilitas generis, litterarum, etc." — 1423. (Martin V.) 2
Non. Jan. St. Peter's, Rome.
In the fifteenth century the church of Glencairn was
granted to the chapter of Glasgow by Bishop Turnbull.
Chalmers in his Caledonia says : — " The gratitude of dean
Myrton and the chapter, erected in 1450, a chaplainry at the
altar of St. Catherine in the church of Glasgow, with a stipend
of .£10 yearly from the revenues of the parish church of Glen-
cairn, to the chaplain, whose duty it should be to pray for
bishop Turnbull, his father and mother, and for his predecessors
and successors (Chart. Glasgow)."
At this period, and even for some considerable time prior
to it, the Church in Scotland had become completely sub-
servient to the Church of Rome. Taylor, writing of the
religious condition of the people towards the close of the
fourteenth and the beginning of the fifteenth century, says: —
" The notions and usages prevalent in Scotland at this period
were not of an enlightened or elevating character. The virtue
of the mass, and of the relics of saints, the adoration of images
and of the cross, the efficacy of indulgences and the importance
of confession, of processions, and of pilgrimages, were zealously
inculcated by the priests, and credulously believed by the
people." "Immense numbers of pilgrims," he says, " travelled
to the various shrines of saints and martyrs, not only in
Scotland and England but even on the Continent," and he
quotes a contemporary writer to prove that the motive of such
pilgrimages was "worldly and fleshly," rather than "to have
friendship of God and of his saints in heaven." In Scotland
the most noted place of pilgrimage appears to have been Whit-
THE CHURCH BEFORE THE REFORMATION. 43
horn, in Galloway. Thither journeyed James IV., by way of
Glencairn, in 1508, and the books of the " Lord High
Treasurer " furnish us with details of some curious outlays
that were incurred in the course of the journey. The King
entered Glencairn by way of the Cloan pass, the only depression
in the range of hills by which it is possible to cross with comfort
from Nithsdale into the valley of the Cairn, and he appears to
have rested at Penpont, and again at "Castell Fern " (Castle-
fairn), in Glencairn. It is at the latter place that the following
outlay is recorded : — " Item, for ane sark to the French boy,
vs." Among other curious payments we find: — "Item, to ane
woman that sang to the King, xxvii.s." "Item, for soling of
ane pair schune to the King, xv.d."
We can imagine the stir that the passing of the King's
gay cavalcade would create in the quiet valley of the Cairn.
No doubt tokens of loyalty and even of affection were forth-
coming, and we may well believe that with these the King was
well pleased. But it is not for long that we are permitted to
linger over the picture. Five short years later the genial but
unfortunate monarch had to "dree his weird" on Flodden's
fatal field.
During the reign of James V. the principles of the Reforma-
tion, championed by William, Earl of Glencairn, his son
Alexander (Lord Kilmaurs), Henry Balnaves, and other zealous
Reformers, made rapid progress. Alarm seized the Popish
Church. On the one hand, the statutes against heresy were
made more severe ; on the other, the clergy were enjoined " to
reform themselves, their obedienciaries, and kirkmen under
them, in habit and manner to God and man." The attempt at
reform from within may have been well meant, but it came too
late. On the 19th of August, 1560, the Estates ratified the new
Confession drawn up by the Reformers, and on the 24th they
abolished in all time coming the Pope's authority within the
realm of Scotland,
CHAPTER VI.— THE CHURCH AFTER THE
REFORMATION.
For many years after the Reformation there was a great
scarcity of ministers throughout Scotland. "Kirks," we are
told, "lacked ministers, and ministers lacked stipends." In
the emergency readers and exhorters were appointed in many
parishes, and it is on record that Glencairn was supplied by
John Jamieson, "exhorter," in 1567. We learn, further, from
a royal warrant dated 21st of October, 1578, which is pre-
served in the Records of the Sheriff Court of Dumfries, that
the stipend paid to the " unplacit Reidar ' ' at Glencairn was " £20
ilk yeir " = £1 13s 4d sterling. A reader was required to read
the Scriptures in the Church morning and evening, and to offer
up the public prayers contained in the Book of Common Order,
but he was forbidden to administer the rite of Baptism, or per-
form the Marriage ceremony, or celebrate the Communion.
Readers of approven capacity were frequently admitted to the
office of the ministry. The succession of fully ordained ministers
from 1574 onwards is as follows: — 1
1574. James Betoun, fourth son of John Betoun, of Balfour,
Dunscore and Holywood having been also in his charge.
1579. James Maxwell, formerly of Lochmaben, Reader at
Traqueir in 1578; he continued 3rd March, 1584, and
was presented to the Vicarage Pensionary of Haliwod by
James VI., 29th Jany., 1582.
1586. William Tailzer (or Tailzeour), a convert from Popery.
He was translated from Penpont, continued in 1588, and
was afterwards translated to Tynron.
1, Scott's Fasti Ecdesia: Scoticance,
THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION. 45
1589. John Broune, A.M., studied at St. Salvator's College,
and had his degree from the University of St. Andrews
10th December, 1586; he continued 14th Jany., 1643.
1632. William Brown, A.M., probably son of the preceding,
was laureated at the University of Edinburgh 27th July,
1622. He married Marione Corsane, who survived him,
and had a son John, who succeeded him in the lands of
Inglistoun, and was served heir 2nd July, 1656. By his
last will, dated 27th October, 1636, he left " to the man-
tenanse of ane scoole at the Kirk 100 merks."
1653. James Brotherstone, A.M., attained his degree at the
University of Edinburgh 15th April, 1645; was deprived
by the Acts of Parliament llth June and 1st October,
1662; and died before 26th May, 1679.
1665. George Hunter, A.M., was laureated at the University
of Glasgow in 1651; ousted by the people in 1689; and
died 25th Jany., 1697, aged about 66.
1692. George Boyd, A.M., graduated at the University of
Edinburgh 30th April, 1689; was called in August, 1691,
and ordained 1st February, succeeding; demitted 30th
October, 1700.
1704. John Pollock studied at the University of Glasgow, and
had a bursary of theology 28th October, 1695; was
licensed by the Presbytery there 29th January, 1701 ;
called 4th April, and ordained 26th May, 1704; he
demitted, having been called to Roxburgh, 1718.
1719. Robert Jardine, translated from Cummertrees, called
23rd July, admitted 5th November following; translated
to Lochmaben 10th October, 1732. (The dates have
been obtained from the Kirk-Session Records of Glen-
cairn. No dates are given in Scott's Fasti.)
1733. William Moodie, called 28th February, and ordained
26th April; died 23rd January, 1772, in his 72nd year
and the 39th of his ministry.
46 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
1774. William Grierson, son of a small farmer in the parish of
Kirkpatrick-Fleming, where he was born 3rd May, 1733,
studied and had a gift of a bursary from the Exchequer
20th July, 1749, at the University of Edinburgh; became
tutor successively in three different families ; was licensed
in May, 1758; he was assistant successively in Tinwald,
Moffat, Inch, and Kirkcudbright parishes; called to the
Scottish congregation at Dort, and ordained by the
Presbytery of Kirkcudbright 4th August, 1763; trans-
lated to the English Presbyterian Church, Amsterdam,
in 1765; presented to this parish by Charles, Duke of
Queensberry and Dover, 16th May, 1772; admitted 3rd
November, 1774 ; died 31st May, 1803, in his 71st year
and the 40th of his ministry.
1804. John Brown, son of William Brown, tailor, Dundrivan,
parish of Douglas. Born 6th January, 1752; licensed by
the Presbytery 1st July, 1778; presented by William,
Duke of Queensberry, in November, 1803, and ordained
26th April thereafter; died 27th February, 1837, in his
86th year and the 33rd of his ministry.
1837. Patrick Borrowman, licensed by the Presbytery of Meigle
31st August, 1836; presented by Walter Francis, Duke
of Buccleuch and Queensberry, in June, and ordained
25th August, 1837. Demitted at the Disruption in 1843.
1843. John Park, translated from Liverpool; translated to St.
Andrews in 1854.
1855. ..William Burnside Dunbar, translated from Westerkirk.
1864. Robert Hume, assistant and successor, translated to
Swinton.
1869. John Monteith studied at the University of Glasgow.
Became assistant at Kilbarchan, Renfrewshire, whence
he was called in 1867 to the Barony Chapel, Glasgow,
under the late Rev. Dr Norman Macleod. Was ordained
THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION. 47
minister of Glencairn 1st July, 1869. Died 20th
February, 1886.
1886. Patrick Macdonald Playfair, M.A., (now D.D.), trans-
lated to St. Andrews, 1899.
1900. George G. D. S. Duncan, M.A., B.D., translated to
Inveresk, May, 1907.
1907. Charles William Gray Taylor, M.A.
"At the Reformation," says Chalmers in his Caledonia
(Vol. v., p. 166, 1890 ed.), " the tithes of the Church of Glen-
cairn were let by the chapter of Glasgow to William Fergusson
of Craigdarroch and other parishioners for payment of 400
merks yearly, of which nothing has been paid for four years
then passed, when the rental of the chapter of Glasgow was
given up, in 1562, as we learn from the rental book. To the
church of Glencairn there belonged many lands, a part whereof
were appropriated to the vicar. After the Reformation the
whole passed into lay hands. The patronage and tithes of the
church of Glencairn were vested in the King in 1587. They
were granted in January, 1591-2, to Sir James Douglas of
Drumlanrig, in whose family they continued. On the death of
William, Duke of Queensberry, in 1810, the patronage of the
church of Glencairn went to the Duke of Buccleuch and Queens-
berry."
The old parish church of Glencairn was in use till 1836.
Externally it measured one hundred and ten feet in length by
twenty -nine feet in width. The disproportionate length is ex-
plained by the fact that a school was accommodated under the
same roof. Two gable walls, overgrown with ivy, are the only
portions of the building now standing. These walls measure no
less than six feet in thickness. A bell, which hung on the eastern
gable, was removed to the new church in 1836. The inscription
on this interesting relic is as follows : — " SOLI DEO GLORIA,
Charles Hog, Glencarn, 1611. John Taylor, Whitehaven, made
48
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
me 1789." This probably means that the bell was originally
made in 1611, but was re-cast by John Taylor, of Whitehaven, in
1789. No references to the re-casting of the bell are to be
found in the Kirk-Session Records, but in the Kirk Treasurer's
book, afterwards referred to, certain interesting details con-
nected with the bell appear under dates June 15th and Novem-
ber 12th, 1789, June 29th, 1791, and April 27th, 1794; and
these entries go far to establish what we have stated. An aged
GLENCAIRN CHURCH TOKENS. 1721 AND i?48
parishioner says that the old church was an extremely plain
building. It was entered by a low arched doorway facing south,
and had one or two steps down into the interior. The floor was
of earth, and in some places very uneven. A moderately wide
passage ran throughout the church. The pulpit was placed
against the south wall, and a low gallery occupied each end of
the building. We learn from the Records of the Penpont
Presbytery that in 1742 the door of the church was changed
from the north to the south side of the building. Two other
doors, described as " East " and "West " doors, are mentioned.
The dimensions of the passages with which they communicated
—7 feet in length and 3 feet 7 inches in breadth — imply that
they were connected with the two galleries, entrance to which is
said to have been obtained by means of outside stairs. Simul-
taneously with the change in the position of the principal door
of the church, a new window was opened in the west "gavel "
and an existing window enlarged. The only other fact respect-
ing the church that we have been able to glean, is that a passage
THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION. 49
in the area was paved with small white stones. A former grave-
digger directed our attention to the existence of this pavement,
but we have had no opportunity of ascertaining the extent or
character of the work.
The churchyard was greatly enlarged by the Heritors in
1870-71. It has since been handed over to the control of the
Parish Council in accordance with Section 30 (6) of the Local
Government (Scotland) Act, 1894. Even in the older portion
of the churchyard comparatively few monuments of historic
interest are to be found. The earliest date that can be de-
ciphered on any of the stones is 1637. There are fragments of
stones that may be older, but their history is unknown. One
interesting fragment has been built into the wall that separates
the churchyard from the manse garden. It measures thirty-four
inches in length by twenty-two inches in depth, and is
inscribed : —
THERE • IS • NO ' OBTA
INING ' THE • PRIZE
OF • HAPPINESS • WIT
HOUT • RUNNING
THE • RACE • OF • HOLINESS.
The present parish church, dedicated like its predecessors
to Saint Cuthbert, was built upon a portion of the glebe, im-
mediately adjoining the churchyard, in 1836. The design was
by Mr M'Candlish, Dairy, and the cost amounted to close upon
£2000. Although placed near the centre of the parish, it is
about two miles distant from Moniaive, the principal centre of
population. To obviate the many inconveniences arising from
this, an additional church, now named Saint Ninian's, was
erected in the village of Moniaive in 1887. Both churches have
recently undergone important structural improvements. In
1902 extensive internal changes were made in St. Cuthbert's in
connection with the introduction of a pipe organ, and in 1906
50 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
St. Ninian's was greatly improved in appearance, both extern-
ally and internally, by the addition of Gothic windows.
The old manse of the parish, built from a plan dated 1775,
is now occupied as a dwelling-house under the name "Cairnside."
The new manse was erected in 1840, according to a plan pre-
pared by Mr Walter Newall, Architect, Dumfries. It is built
on a low ridge facing south, and overlooks a beautiful reach of
the Cairn river. It has been called the queen of Scottish
manses.
UNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH.
This congregation was first organised in connection with
the General Associate Synod under the designation " The
United Congregation of Glencairn and Closeburn," afterwards
changed to " The United Congregation of Moniaive and Thorn-
hill." The first church was built on the farm of Kirkcudbright
at a point, still marked by several ash trees, on the old line of
roadway from Moniaive into Galloway. In 1800 the congrega-
tion built a new church on a site within the village of Moniaive.
This second church was replaced in 1834 by a third church, built
on the same site. While the new church was in course of
erection the congregation worshipped in the old parish church
of Glencairn.
TOKEN. MINNIHIVE ASSOCIATE CONGREGATION.
It may be of interest to mention that the original lead com-
munion tokens, issued in 1778, are still used by the Moniaive
congregation. The tokens are in the form of an irregular
THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION. 51
octagon, and bear the inscription, " Minnihive Assoc. Con. Mr
I. P., (the initials of James Pattison, first minister), 1778."
In the other two congregations of the parish the metal token has
now been superseded by a printed card.
The following are the names of the ministers : —
1778. James Pattison, ordained 30th July, 1778; translated to
Thornhill at the disjunction of the two congregations in
1804.
1805. James France, ordained 22nd August, 1805.
1817. James M'Geoch, ordained 26th August, 1817.
1849. Robert Berwick, ordained 26th June, 1849; demitted
May, 1863.
1864. Alexander W. Donaldson, B.A., ordained 25th October,
1864; translated to Strathaven 1870.
1871. Thomas Kidd, M.A., ordained 31st October, 1871.
i
FREE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND.
The Free Church of Glencairn originated at the Disruption.
The Rev. Patrick Borrowman, minister of the parish, warmly
espoused the cause of the Evangelicals, and he was among those
who signed the Protest and Deed of Demission on the 18th of
May, 1843. With him no fewer than 531 persons in full com-
munion left the Church of Scotland. This was no hasty de-
cision. At a largely attended meeting held in the manse, a
month prior to the sitting of the famous Assembly in Edin-
burgh, it was solemnly and deliberately resolved to appoint a
committee " to look out a site for a new church, acquire titles to
the same, and generally to transact all business connected with
the Free Protesting Church. ';
The first service after the Disruption was held in the open
air in a field near Broomfield. Accommodation, for worship
was subsequently afforded by the managers of the United
52 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Secession Church in Moniaive, the Free Church congregation
assembling at two o'clock in the afternoon. Meanwhile the
committee appointed to look out a site for a new church had
not been idle. A field belonging to Mr Hepburn, Dunreggan,
was selected, and as negotiations proved satisfactory, building
operations were at once begun. So expeditiously was the work
carried out that by December, 1843, the church was available
for public worship. A tablet setting forth the occasion of its
erection was inserted in the front wall of the building. The
inscription on this tablet is as follows : — " The people of Glen-
cairn, aided by the Central Fund, built this house for the wor-
ship of God, when for adhering to her old standards and the
testimony of the martyrs on behalf of Christ as King of
Zion, the Church of Scotland was severed from the State.
MDCCCXLIII. Patrick Borrowman, minister." The erection
of a manse and of a school successively claimed attention, and
in a short time the congregation had the satisfaction of seeing
both schemes crowned with success.
Naturally, much embittered feeling lingered in the wake of
the Disruption, but with the rise of a new generation this has
entirely disappeared, and there is now cordial co-operation
between members of the different communions in all matters
affecting the well-being of the parish and district.
In 1888 important structural improvements were effected
upon the first Free Church at a cost of £800. During recent
years the beauty of the building has been further enhanced by
the addition of three stained-glass windows, the gift of the late
Robert Mackill, Glasgow ; and a handsome Estey organ, gifted
to the congregation by Mr and Mrs MacRae of Stenhouse, in
May, 1900. More recently a bronze bust to the memory of the
Rev. Patrick Borrowman, modelled by James Paterson Esq.,
THE CHURCH AFTER THE REFORMATION. 53
A.R.S.A., has been inserted in the vestibule of the church. It
bears the inscription: —
Born 1813.
Ordained 1837.
Died 1899.
Nee
Tamen
Consumebatur.
In affectionate memory of the Reverend Patrick Borrowman,
first minister of the Free Church of Scotland in Glencairn.
MCM: A.D.
In March, 1893, the old Free Church school in Ayr Street
was purchased back from the School Board by an anonymous
friend, and presented to the congregation for use as a hall, a
purpose which it has amply fulfilled.
MINISTERS.
1843. Patrick Borrowman, ordained 1837; died 1899.
1886. John Telfer, colleague and successor, ordained Novem-
ber, 1886; translated to Lyon Street F.C., Glasgow,
1891.
1891. David Fyffe, M.A., colleague and successor, ordained
July, 1891 ; translated to Fairfield English Presbyterian
Church, Liverpool, 1896.
1896. Robert G. Philip, M.A., colleague and successor,
ordained 10th September, 1896.
UNITED FREE CHURCH OF SCOTLAND.
Since the union of the two non-Established Churches in
1900, Glencairn Free Church has become known as Glencairn
United Free Church, and Moniaive United Presbyterian Church
as Moniaive United Free Church. Both congregations are
within the Presbytery of Dumfries and Penpont, and the Synod
of Dumfries and Galloway.
#
CHAPTER VII.— THE COVENANTERS.
Although the annals of Glencairn are mostly of the quiet
and unassuming kind, such as naturally belong to a district far
removed from the great centres of life, we have now to speak
of a period in which Glencairn was called upon to play a part
that has earned for her a distinctive and honoured place in the
national annals. We need scarcely say that we refer to the
period of that great struggle for civil and religious liberty which
culminated in the Revolution of 1688.
In 1662 the Prelatic party, in their efforts to impose
Episcopacy upon Scotland, issued a proclamation banishing from
their parishes all ministers that had not received a presenta-
tion from the bishops of the diocese. Between three and four
hundred ministers, of whom James Brotherstone, minister of
Glencairn, was one, resigned their livings rather than submit to
this enactment. To fill the empty pulpits an army of raw
recruits called curates was enrolled, but the great body of the
people refused to attend upon the ministrations of these
intruders, and the parish churches were almost deserted. At
this juncture some of the ejected ministers opened their houses
for worship, and the privilege was so largely taken advantage of
that it became necessary to meet in the fields. This was the
beginning of the open-air meetings, called conventicles, which
were destined to become so famous in Covenanting history. An
Act was immediately passed providing that all ministers preach-
ing without the sanction of the bishops should be punished for
sedition, and that certain pains and penalties should be inflicted
on those who absented themselves from their parish church.
In 1662 the fines levied for nonconformity in the county of
Dumfries alone amounted to £164,200 Scots. Of this sum no
THE COVENANTERS. 55
less than £3600 was exacted from John Laurie of Maxwelton,
Glencairn. These and other tyrannical enactments stung the
Covenanters beyond endurance. It was in Dairy, a neighbour-
ing parish to Glencairn, that the storm first broke. A small
company of Turner's dragoons, quartered in what was then
called the Clachan of Dairy, had seized an old man named
Grier, and were threatening to roast him on a gridiron because
he could not pay his church fines.1 Certain sympathisers inter-
fered, with the result that four dragoons were made prisoners.
News of this exploit soon reached Balmaclellan, where a larger
number of Covenanters seized sixteen more of Sir James
Turner's men. The contagion rapidly spread, and it was
resolved to proceed to Dumfries for the purpose of seizing
Turner himself. On the morning of Thursday, 15th November,
1666, this bold project was carried into execution. The insur-
gents, with Turner a prisoner in their hands, returned from
Dumfries by way of Glencairn Kirk and Castlefairn, at both of
which places they rested for refreshment, and on the following
day they re-entered Dairy. Even the more moderate of the
party now saw that they had gone too far to turn back. It
was accordingly resolved to march upon Edinburgh. The
disastrous ending of the ill-starred enterprise is matter of
history. Pelted by wind and rain, weary with marching, and
disheartened by defections at the moment of attack, they were
offered battle on the 28th November, at a spot called Rullion
Green, on the side of the Pentlands, near Edinburgh, and after
a gallant resistance were put to the rout. Many surrendered on
receiving a promise that their lives would be spared, but the
scaffold was at once set up and the grim work of death begun.
According to the Records of the Justiciary Courts, ten were
hanged in Edinburgh on the 7th December, 1666, six on the
14th, and nine on the 22nd, and in the same month four were
1. Wodrow,
56 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
hanged in Glasgow, and twelve in Ayr and Dumfries. In the
following August a still larger number of absent men were
found guilty of taking part in the rising, and were sentenced to
be hanged whenever they were found, and all their property
was confiscated.
The years of systematic oppression that followed are among
the darkest in Scottish history. "No part of modern history,"
says the historian Hallam, " can be compared for the wickedness
of government to the Scots administration of this reign."
Towards the close of December, 1678, John Graham of Claver-
house was sent into Dumfriesshire to punish all disorders and
church irregularities throughout the disaffected districts. He
was a man well-fitted for the task. Early in 1681 he wrote from
New-Galloway : —
" The country hereabouts is in great dread. Upon our
march yesterday .most men were fled, not knowing against whom
we designed. . . . My humble opinion is that it should be
unlawful for the donators to compound with anybody for behoof
of the rebel till once he hath made his peace. For I would
have all footing in this country taken from them that will stand
out. And for securing the rents to the donators and the Crown,
it is absolutely necessary there be a fixed garrison in Kenmure,
instead of Dumfries ; for without it, I am now fully convinced,
we can never secure the peace of this country, nor hunt these
rogues from their haunts. ... I sent yesterday two parties
in search of those men your lordship gave me a list of — one of
them to a burial in the Glencairn, the other to the fair at
Thornhill. Neither of them are yet returned: but Stenhouse
(Colonel James Douglas, brother of the Duke of Queensberry)
tells me that the party at the burial miscarried; that he
pointed out to them one of the men, and they took another for
him, though I had chosen a man to command the party that was
born hereabouts. They shall not stay in this country but I
shall have them."
THE COVENANTERS. 57
In Glencairn Claverhouse's chief coadjutors in the work of
repression were Sir Robert Grierson of Lag, Sir Robert Laurie
of Maxwelton, and Colonel James Douglas, Stenhouse. Of
their activity and zeal our hillsides, unhappily, afford witness
that is only too eloquent.
MARTYR MEMORIALS.
1. STONE, INSCRIBED " W. SMITH," IN FIELD ABOUT A QUARTER
OF A MILE TO THE EAST OF MONIAIVE.
This stone, a rough block of whinstone, with the name
"W. Smith" rudely inscribed upon it, lies on ground that
was formerly part of " Minnyhive Moss," or, as it is else-
where called, the " Race-rrruir. " According to tradition it
marks the spot where William Smith fell when he was shot by
order of Douglas of Stenhouse and Laurie of Maxwelton.
The martyr's final resting place is to be found in Tynron
Churchyard, where a flat stone raised on supports bears the
inscription : —
HERE LYETH WILLIAM
SMITH SON TO WILLIAM
SMITH IN HILL1 WHO FOR
HIS ADHERING TO THE COVE-
NANTED WORK OF REFOR-
MATION WAS SHOT AT
MINNYHIVE MOSS THE 29ra
DAY OF MARCH 1685 HIS AGE
19 YEARS. THIS DEED WAS
NOT DONE BY A COUNCIL
OF WAR BUT BY COUNTRYMEN
WITHOUT SYSE.2
1. Now gardener's house, Crawfordton. 2.
58 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Also, at right angles to the foregoing : —
t* ^ O O O -i"1
§cl|gC
^ i_!^ O O LJ ^
h^ nn j_^j ;*^ ^3
* . tT h^ J t^
t=j CO 33 ^
-s
H
KJ
" M •<!
cj d § g
oj 02 a ^
o or 3
o
This inscription, like many more of its class, is poor enough
doggerel, but, as some one has said, "The doggerel of heroes
must always command the respect of ordinary men." The
statement that burial was refused is borne out by tradition, and
attests the insatiable cruelty of the times.1
1. See also A Cloud of Witnesses, edited by the Rev. John H. Thomson,
Edinburgh, 1871. p. 551,
THE COVENANTERS. 59
2. STONE IN GARDEN AT INGLESTON.
The stone at Ingleston is hewn, but unpretentious in
character. It measures two feet seven inches in height by two
feet nine inches in breadth, and is inscribed : —
IN THIS YARD WERE SHOT JOHN GIBSON
JAMES BENNOCH ROBERT EDGAR
ROBERT MITCHELL AND ROBERT GRIER
SON APRIL 29 1685 BY COLONEL
DOUGLAS AND LIVINGSTONNS DRA
GOONS FOR ADHERING TO CHRISTS KING
LY GOVERNMENT IN HIS CHURCH AGAINST
TYRANNIE PERJURIE AND PRELACIE
The story of the death of these men is sickening in its brutality.
One Andrew Watson, an informer, having got wind of their
retreat, sold his information to the authorities, who forthwith
deputed Colonel James Douglas and Lieutenant Livingstone to
surprise the fugitives. Their cave or " hidie-hole " was accord-
ingly surrounded, and the whole five made prisoners. It is
said that the soldiers shot in on the cave, wounded one, and
then rushed in. Without any examination or the slightest form
of trial, Colonel Douglas ordered them to be shot. John
Gibson was the first to suffer. According to Wodrow, " his sister
got in to him by the compassion of some of the soldiers."1
His mother, too, managed to get to him, and he charged her
not to give way to grief, but to bless the Lord upon his account,
who had made him both willing and ready to suffer for His
cause and interest. After singing part of Ps. xvii., and engaging
in prayer, he was dispatched. An effort was then made to dis-
pose of the others all at once. The volley killed three of their
number, while the fourth was left sorely wounded but conscious.
One Ferguson, a renegade, observing this drew his sword and
thrust him through the body — fit climax to a tragedy which for
1. Su/eringa, Vol. IV., p. 243,
60 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
cold-blooded cruelty is almost without a parallel in Covenanting
literature.
3. STONES IN GLENCAIRN CHURCHYARD.
The stones commemorate the men who died at Ingleston,
and are four in number. One of them being a replica, it is of
three only that we require to speak.
(a) STONE TO JAMES BENNOCH.
HERE LYES JAMES
BENNOCH SHOT DE-
-AD BY COL : DUGLAS
AND LIVINGSTONS
DRAGOONS AT ENG-
-LSTON FOR ADHE-
RING TO THE WORD
OF GOD CHRISTS KI-
-NGLY GOVERMENT
IN HIS HOUSE AND
THE COVENTED WO-
-RK OF REFORMATION
AGAINST TYRANNY
PERJURY AND PRELA-
CY APR : 28 : 1685 REV.
12: 11
o w bd K
HUQ^S^QW
°woogg^£
W g g S OQ 5 * *
> F H S w OQ o t-«
CdHH^noW'TJH')
SS^wg^gw
tHhrj^^^^gCC
™a*K%^*>
^§0>°!2i^g
d - rt 5 a c p 5
• ^ d ^ a x c o
OjS^HHtrJH^P
H K* g g > H
^ H 3 W
W Cj »> , .
sal e
§ * §
u TS
*i
THE COVENANTERS. 61
(b) STONE TO JOHN GIBSON.
HERE LYES JOHN GIBS-
-ON MARTYR SHOT
TO DEATH BY COL: DO-
-UGLAS AND LIVINGS-
-STONS DRAGOONS • AT
ENGLSTON IN GLEN-
-CAIRN • FOR ADHERING
TO THE WORD OF GOD
CHRISTS KINGLY GOV
-ERMENT IN HIS HOU-
-SE: AND THE COVENA-
NTED WORK OF REFO-
RMATION AGAINST
TYRANY PERJURY AND
PRELACY APRYL 28
1685 REV. 12 : 11.
t^t>M^'^WC^0t>WWS
w 5* Q 5{ &5 o d " r» o
^ f*) \m^ Hrt U? 'W' /•*. S**. ^5 L. ^-H
L^ h5 ^ h>l pi ^ {'* P5 fT; ^^ t^ f-H
O§§wwoS^dS^z»
Hto^m^s Jo wd
P« O O H rO uj HyDOhr1
y HH K I— i ^ ^i-a*
^_ /~^ \^J ^ . L -^ r^ —
t> ^< <J !? ~ c
§H I S S * <
G KJ to- Q d O
| ; . S « ;.;B ,*
62 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
(c) STONE TO ROBERT EDGER AND ROBERT MITCHEL.
HERE LYES ROBERT EDGER
AND ROBERT MITCHEL MAR
-TYRS SHOT TO DEATH BY
COL DUGLAS AND LIVING-
STONS DRAGOONS AT ENG
LISTON FOR ADHERING TO
THE WORD OF GOD CHR
ISTS KINGLY GOVERMENT
IN HIS HOUSE & THE COVE
NANTED WORK OF REFOR
MATION AGAINST TYRANY
PERJURY & PRELACY APRIL
28 . 1685. REV. 12. 11.
HALT PASSENGER TEL^ IF
THOU EVER SAW
MEN SHOT TO DEATH
WITHOUT PROCESS OF LA W
WE TWO OF FOUR WHO IN
THIS CHURCH-YARD LY
THUS FELT THE RAGE OF
POPISH TYRANY.
Robert Grierson, the remaining sufferer at Ingleston,
belonged to the parish of Balmaclellan, and in the churchyard
there a fitting monument has been reared to his memory.
4. MONUMENT TO JAMES REN WICK AT MONIAIVE.
Although the resting-place of James Renwick is in the
north-east corner of Greyfriars' Churchyard, Edinburgh, his
name has never ceased to be regarded with peculiar veneration
in Glencairn, the parish of his birth, and in 1828 a handsome
monument was erected to his memory on a commanding position
on the farm of Neise. The monument bears the inscription : —
THE COVENANTERS.
63
REV?. JAMES RENWICK,
the last who
Suffered to Death
for
Attachment to the Covenanted Cause
of CHRIST
in SCOTLAND ;
BORN
Near this Spot,
15th Feby. 1662 ;
and Executed
at the Grassmarket, Edinburgh,
- 17th Feby. 1688 -
"The Righteous shall be in
Everlasting Remembrance."
^= Psal cxii. = 6 =-
Erected by Subscription
A.: D. MDCCCXXVIII.
It is, however, not only by the number or the importance
of the monuments in Glencairn, commemorative of the martyrs,
that we learn the extent to which the parish was identified with
the struggle for civil and religious liberty in Scotland. History
has also preserved the names of many who bore faithful witness
in other parts of the country; who suffered banishment; who
were subjected to fines and penalties ; or who endured hardships
64 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
and extremities rather than imperil the safety of loved ones, or
the triumph of the cause they held dear.
1662. Wm. Ferguson, Ketloch, fined £1000 Scots and forfeited
in life and goods.
Jas. Hunter, Townhead, fined £600 Scots.
Jno. Laurie of Maxwelston fined £3600 Scots.
James Brotherstone, minister of Glencairn, deprived of
Church living.
1679. Nine Covenanters from Glencairn, who had fought at
Bothwell Brig, condemned to banishment. Five of the
number — David Mackervail, John Ferguson, Robert
Milligan, James Colvil, and Thomas Rosper — were
drowned by shipwreck near Orkney. The fate of the
remaining four, who escaped — John Milligan, John
Murdoch, John Smith, and William Fergusson — is
unknown.
1680. John Gibson, in Auchenchain, forfeited in life and goods.
— Gibson, younger of Ingleston, forfeited in life and
goods.
William Grierson of Loch Urr, who was condemned to
death, but had sentence commuted to imprisonment.
1684. Fugitive rebels at the horn1 : —
Archibald Hunter in Terreran.
Dr John Corsan, Gapsmill.
Alexander Muirhead, Glencorse.
James Corsan, Jedburgh.
William Corsan, Jedburgh.
William Harris, Kirkcudbright.
Alexander M'Cubin in Marwhan.
Robert Ferguson, Ketloch.
John Grier, Glencairn.
1. It was long the custom to use the horn for public proclamations, and
these men would doubtless be proclaimed outlaws by a legally empowered
Messenger at the Mercat Cross, Dumfries.
THE COVENANTERS. 65
William Wilson, Burnfoot.
Thomas M'Murdy, Barbuy.
William Ferguson, Threerigs.
Robert Cunningham, Ketloch.
John Gibson in Ingleston.
Robert M'Ewan, tailor in Creichan.
James Crosbie, Glencairn Kirk.
John Matthison, in Shankerton.
John Ker, in Monygryle.
1685. Andrew Ferguson of Glencairn, imprisoned in Glasgow,
who died of disease.
Elizabeth Hunter, lady of Caitloch, exiled to Holland,
where she died.
1684. James Macmichael, shot by Claverhouse.
Robert Smith, executed in Kirkcudbright.
Samuel M'Ewan, Glencairn, hanged in the Grassmarket.
1685. William Heron, Glencairn, shot at Lochenkit.
Alexander M'Cubin, Glencairn, hanged at Irongray.
Daniel M'Michael, Glencairn, shot at Dalveen.
JAMES REN WICK.
Although the outstanding incidents in the life of James
Renwick are well known, we must needs linger for a little over
the career of one who has shed such undying lustre on the
parish.
James Renwick was born in a cottage on the lands of Neise,
near Moniaive, on the 15th day of February, 1662. No trace
of the cottage itself remains, but an aged gean tree is said to
occupy what was once a corner of the garden plot, and almost
within living memory some of the gooseberry bushes still
occupied the ground. The cottage was, no doubt, one of
several which, tradition tells us, stood near the old line of road-
way on the side of the Schlenders Hill (see Place-names, p. 16).
His father, Andrew Renwick, a weaver by trade, and his
CG THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
mother, Elizabeth Corsan, were both persons of fervent piety.
Several of their children had died in infancy, and James, we are
told, was the child of many prayers. In 1676 Andrew Renwick
died. By the assistance of kind friends the widowed mother
was enabled to send her boy to the University of Edinburgh.
His college course was marked by great diligence, and " he was
one of twenty-six students who, in the summer of 1681, publicly
took their degrees."1
On 27th July, in the same year, Renwick was an eye-
witness of the execution of Donald Cargill, and from that time
his mind seems to have been made up to throw in his lot with
those who were fighting the battle of civil and religious liberty.
He continued in Edinburgh for some time after his laurea-
tion, frequenting the meetings of the United Societies, formed
for mutual protection and advice, and holding fellowship with
the non-conformist ministers and others who attended such
gatherings. Towards the close of 1682, he was selected by the
United Societies as a worthy candidate for the ministry, and
sent to complete his studies at the University of Groningen, in
Holland. Having shown " approven proficiency," he was
ordained by the "Classis " or Presbytery of Groningen on the
10th May, 1683. His thoughts now turned to his friends in
Scotland. In a letter written about this time he says : — " My
longings and earnest desire to be in that land, and with that
pleasant remnant, are very great. I cannot tell what may be
in it, but I hope the Lord hath either some work to work, or
else is minded presently to call for a testimony at my hand ; and
if he give frame and furniture, I desire to welcome either of
them."
The opportunity soon came. Returning to Scotland in
September, 1683, he was "called" with unanimity by the
people, and on the 23rd day of November he began his public
1. See The Covenanters, by James King Hewison. Vol. II., p. 414.
THE COVENANTERS. 67
ministry by preaching to a great gathering assembled at the
Moss of Darmead, in the parish of Cambusnethan.
The revival of field-preaching at this time was peculiarly
distasteful to the Government. In the beginning of 1684
Renwick was proclaimed a traitor and rebel, and in September
of the same year Letters of Intercommuning (i.e., of civil ex-
communication) were issued against him. " We command and
charge all and sundry, our leiges and subjects," ran this bar-
barous edict, " that they, nor none of them presume, nor take
upon hand, to reset, supply or intercommune with the said Mr
James Renwick, rebel foresaid; nor furnish him with meat,
drink, house, harbour, victual, nor no other thing useful or
comfortable to him; or to have intelligence with him by word,
writ, or message, or any other manner of way whatsomever,
under the pain of being esteemed art and part with him in the
crimes foresaid, and pursued therefore with all rigor, to the
terror of others. And we hereby require all our Sheriffs, etc.,
to apprehend and commit to prison, the person of the said Mr
James Renwick, wherever they can find or apprehend him."
The amount of work that he accomplished in the face
of such opposition is amazing. During the first twelve months
of his ministry he is said to have baptized no fewer than six
hundred children, a record that is almost incredible when we
think of the time that must have been required for preaching,
for correspondence, and for catechising. Notwithstanding hard-
ships and trials his faith never wavered. In one of his letters
he says : — " The Lord suffers not my work, however unsupport-
able to flesh and blood, to be burdensome unto me, for, though
the world think my case most miserable, yet I think it is so
happy that I know not a man this day upon the face of the earth
with whom I would exchange my lot."
On the 28th May, 1685, three months after the accession
of James, Duke of York, an avowed Papist, to the throne,
Renwick, accompanied by about two hundred men, some of
68 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
whom were, no doubt, drawn from our own parish, marched to
the town of Sanquhar, and there, after praise and prayer, affixed
to the Market Cross a declaration disowning James as King.
At the moment this bold step did not attract the amount of
attention that might have been expected, probably because the
Government was fully occupied with an attack upon its authority
from another quarter, but, in the following year, a reward of
one hundred pounds sterling was offered to any one who should
bring Renwick in dead or alive. It is sad to find that during
those days of trial and persecution Renwick 's life was em-
bittered by the calumnies of brethren who had separated from
him. Even the Rev. Alexander Peden, his co-worker and
friend, was temporarily estranged; but when Peden was
lying on his death-bed he sent for Renwick, and taking
him by the hand, he said : — " I find you a faithful servant to
your Master; go on in single dependence upon the Lord, and
you will win honestly through and cleanly off the stage when
many others that hold their head high will fall and lie in the
mire, and make foul hands and garments."
These persistent attempts at misrepresentation were the
immediate occasion of the issue of what is known as the Inf orma-
tory Vindication, a defensive document approved by the
Societies at a general meeting held at Friarminion, in the early
part of 1687. During a considerable part of this year Renwick
was occupied in testifying against the Toleration, permitting men
to worship in their own houses but forbidding them to do so
in the open fields, proclaimed by James on 12th February, and
also renewed with slight alterations in June and October. As
the woeful effects of this ensnaring proclamation became more
and more apparent, Renwick formed the resolution of proceed-
ing to Edinburgh that he might place in the hands of the
Moderator of the Presbytery a formal protest against the
Toleration. During the journey to Edinburgh he proposed to
preach at Peebles, but, his intention becoming known, he had
THE COVENANTERS. 69
to flee the town. A week later, however, he was able to preside
at two conventicles on the Braid Hills under the very shadow of
the capital. Other conventicles were held in Fife on the 22nd
and 24th January, and at Bo 'ness on the 29th. On the 31st he
returned to Edinburgh, where he lodged in the house of a friend,
John Luckup by name, who lived in the Castlehill. That
evening his voice was overheard in prayer and recognised.
Next morning the house was surrounded. He essayed to escape
by discharging a pistol over the heads of those who had come
to take him, but after running a short distance in the direction
of the Cowgate, he was seized and committed a close prisoner
in irons to the Tolbooth. On the 8th February he was tried
before the High Court of Justiciary on an indictment which
charged him with disowning the King's authority, refusing to
pay the cess, and maintaining the lawfulness of defensive arms.
He objected to the terms of the indictment, but as " he
openly and constantly adhered to all that he had said before,"
he was found guilty and condemned to be executed in the Grass-
market, Edinburgh, on the 10th day of February. The date
was afterwards altered to the 17th, but the delay was not of
Renwick's seeking, for, when a reprieve was suggested to him,
he answered that his Master's time was the best. In the
interval between his sentence and his execution he was visited
by many who tried to induce him to recant, but all their
blandishments were in vain. He was likewise visited by his
mother and sisters, and to them he talked composedly of his
approaching death. " I have many times counted the cost of
following Christ," he said, "but never expected it would have
been so easy. . . . Now I am near the end of time. I
desire to bless the Lord; it is inexpressibly sweet and satisfying
peace to me that He hath kept me from complying in the least
with enemies."
On the morning of the 17th he was led forth to execution.
1. Shields' Life of Renwick, p. 136.
70 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Around the scaffold a great multitude had assembled. The
authorities, well knowing how anxious the people were to hear
him speak, gave orders for the drums to beat while the awful
tragedy was being enacted. Among the last words that were
heard from his lips were these : — " Lord, I die in the faith that
Thou wilt not leave Scotland, but that Thou wilt make the
blood of Thy Witnesses the seed of Thy Church, and return
again and be glorious in our Land."
Honour to the memory of the Covenanters ! That they
were guilty of excesses no one who is not blinded by prejudice
will be disposed altogether to deny. But when all has been
said, their faults were trifling in comparison with their excel-
lencies. When we remember that many of those who suffered
were plain country people, nothing is more remarkable than the
heights of true eloquence to which they attained. In his dying
testimony Samuel M'Ewan, a Glencairn lad of seventeen, who
was taken at Closeburn, and executed at Edinburgh August
15th, 1684, spoke thus : — " I am heartily content with my lot. It
was my desire, though most unworthy, to die a martyr, and I
bless the Lord who has granted me my desire. Now this is
the most joyful day ever I saw with mine eyes. Farewell, all
earthly enjoyments and friends, in our sweet Lord Jesus Christ ;
and farewell, Glencairn, my native parish. Welcome, my sweet
Saviour; into Thy hands I commit my spirit, for Thou art He,
O Jehovah, God of Truth, who hast redeemed me."1 The same
cheerful and pious spirit was shown by Daniel M'Michael when
shot at Dalveen. After the napkin had been put over his face
he said, " Lord, Thou broughtest Daniel through many straits,
and hast brought me, Thy servant, hither, to witness for Thee
and Thy cause. Into Thy hands I commit my spirit, and hope
to praise Thee through all eternity."2 Glance now at Alexander
M'Cubin, another of Glencairn 's peasant martyrs, and see how
1. Wodrow, Vol. IV.. p. 69. 2. Wodrow, Vol. IV., p. 240.
THE COVENANTERS. 71
he bore himself at Irongray. An acquaintance asked him,
when about to be hanged, if he had any word to send to his wife.
" I leave her," he replied, "and the two babes upon the Lord,
and to His promise; a Father to the fatherless, and Husband
to the widow, is the Lord in His holy habitation."1 Finally,
think again of James Renwick, who perhaps more than any
other embodied the genius of the Covenant. When the drums
beat for the guard to take him to execution, he exclaimed joy-
fully, "It is the welcome warning to my marriage; the Bride-
groom is coming. I am ready. I am ready. . . . Lord,
into Thy hands I commit my spirit, for Thou hast redeemed
me, O God of truth."2
Thus the men that lived and died " for Christ's Crown and
Covenant " have shed such lustre on the story of the parish
that we recognise the fitness of the poet's words : —
" Hail, green Glencairn ! a glory is round ye,
Land where our Covenant forefathers trod;
Mist of the moorland ! my spirit hath found ye
Bright with the smile of our Covenant God."
On the 23rd December, 1688, James, fearful of the gathering
storm which his misgovernment had induced, fled to the Conti-
nent. A Convention met and declared that by his abuse of
power he had forfeited the crown; and they proceeded to elect
the Prince and Princess of Orange to the vacant throne. The
restoration of Presbytery followed. At first it was impossible to
find ministers for all the churches, and Presbyteries had difficulty
in dealing with the numerous applications for supply. Among
others who officiated in Glencairn at this time we find the names
of Mr Gabriel Semple, of Kirkpatrick-Durham, and Mr John
Hepburn, of Urr.3 In 1692 the Rev. George Boyd, A.M., was
inducted as minister of the parish, and the people, after long
years of stress and turmoil, settled down to worship God accord-
ing to approved Presbyterian rites and forms.
1. Wodrow, Vol. IV., p. 240. 2. Wodrow, Vol. IV., p. 452.
3. Dumfries Presbytery Records,
CHAPTER VIIL— KIRK-SESSION RECORDS.
The Kirk-Session Records of Glencairn date back to 1693,
and afford some curious glimpses of the social and religious life
of the parish. Nothing is more remarkable than the power of
the Kirk-Session in all matters affecting Church order and
morals. The procedure in cases of discipline seems to have
been inquisitorial to a degree, and even harsh, although it should
be remembered that the times were rough and called for decisive
and thorough methods. Among the offences dealt with are: —
Adultery and Fornication, Irregular Marriages, Witchcraft,
Drunkenness, Sabbath-breaking, Fast-day Desecration, Alter-
ing of land marks, Speaking disrespectfully of Elders, Scold-
ing, Cursing and Swearing. In a minute dated January
28th, 1694, a parishioner is solemnly rebuked for " swearing at
ye curling on ye ice." At the same sederunt John M'Conrick,
in Tynron, is charged with " dryving ane cow on ye Sabath out
of ye parish of Glencarne," and at a subsequent meeting the
said John appears to answer for the offence. Two cases of
reputed witchcraft are mentioned in the Records, the first under
date "Apryl nynth," 1694, the second in a minute dated 14th
Nov., 1707. The earlier case promises to be interesting, but,
owing to a somewhat lengthy break in the Records — 15th April,
1694, to 1st June, 1701 — curiosity remains ungratified. From
a deliverance anent " Drinking in Ale-houses," dated 18th June,
1704, we learn that "two elders per vices (in turn) were
appointed to go amongst the Houses each Sabbath both fore-
noon and afternoon to search if there be any keeping company
and drinking in tyme of sermon." At the same diet the Church
officer was instructed to cite four men and one woman to appear
in answer to a charge of "scandalous drinking."
From a minute of 21st June, 1702, we extract the
KIRK-SESSION RECORDS. 73
following anent persons desiring to be proclaimed in order
to marriage : — " The Session considering that they are many
times all slighted by either not laying doun the dollars or
takeing cautionrie for them when persons are giveing up their
names to be proclaimed in order to marriage (enacts?)
therefore and Appoints that no proclamation henceforth be
allowed in this paroch untill first one dollar at least be con-
sign'd to the Session or in the hands of any whom they shall
appoint." On 4th February, 1705, we find the Session record-
ing their disapproval of " vagrant persons and strangers coming
from oyr places and takeing up there residence and abode in the
paroch," and "people provyding themselves with servants " are
enjoined not to allow servants and others under them the benefit
of service and constant abode until first they produce certificates
to the Session from the place of their former residence."
Under date 27th May, 1722, we meet with the following
curious entry anent pauper funerals : — " The Session appoints to
the funeral of each poor person within ye parish 4 pence for
tobacco, 6 pence for pipes, 5 groats for ale." At a meeting held
on January 4th, 1741, the straits of the poor, consequent upon a
dearth of meal, engaged the attention of the Session. The
minute reads : — " The Session having taken into their considera-
tion the present straits of the poor through the present dearth
and the Meal -sellers either carrying it out of the Country or
refusing to sell it in Small quantities as the poor can buy it, and
having Draught of a Complaint to the Justices of the Peace laid
before them they caused the same to be read, Approved yrof,
and appointed their Modr. to subscribe it in their name, and
present it to the Justices for their consideration."
Valuable supplementary references to poor relief, and other
matters of Sessional control, are contained in two small MS.
volumes, which the writer of this short history was fortunate
enough to discover among a miscellaneous collection of books
74 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
recently sold by auction in the parish. The earlier of the two
volumes covers a period of fifteen years — 1783 to 1798 — and
is entitled Book of Collections of Glencairn. The second
volume, although bearing a different title, is identical in charac-
ter with the first. Both books are divided into three sections: —
(1) A record of Church-door collections; (2) An account of
proclamations, fines, etc. ; (3) A statement of moneys disbursed
to the poor and in payment of miscellaneous congregational
expenses.1
COLLECTIONS.
The record of the collections seems to have been kept with
scrupulous care and regularity. An unfortunate hiatus, indeed,
occurs during the summer of 1792, but this is adequately ex-
plained by the following statement : — " From April 1st (to Novr.
16th) no accounts kept by the clerk on account of his sickness
and death." For so large a parish as Glencairn the amounts col-
lected at the ordinary weekly services appear remarkably small.
During the earlier period the maximum figure, where not aug-
mented by special donations, is 13s, while the minimum is 8d.
Fortunately special contributions from the well-to-do in the
parish were by no means infrequent. Thus, under date May
21st, 1786, we read: — "Collection as augmented by Craig-
darroch £1 8s 2d;" and on January 28th, 1789 :—" Collection
as augmented by Mrs Fergusson and Glen, (probably Mrs
Fergusson of Craigdarroch and the laird of Glencrosh),
£1 Os 2d." During the later period similar entries are met
with. Thus, " Octo. 29th, 1815, Collected, of which from Mr
Walker, £1 Is Od, £1 18s Ojd;" " Jany. 5th, 1817, Collected,
of which from Sir Robert Laurie per Jedburgh £1 Is Od,
£1 14s OJd."
The outstanding feature, however, in connection with the
Church-door collections is the phenomenal increase that
1. The books were presented to the Kirk-Session of Glencairn in 1909,
KIRK-SESSION RECORDS. 75
occurs at Communion seasons. During the 1783-98 period an
average sum of close upon five pounds was collected, while
during the 1808-19 period an average of between eight and nine
pounds \vas reached. These figures, especially when compared
with the ordinary collections, perhaps point to the fact that
some followed the custom, always a regrettable one, of atten-
dance only on such occasions. Still more, they are eloquent as
to the popularity of the Communion services, and go far to
prove that it was the custom in Glencairn, as elsewhere, for
flocks of people to gather to the Sacrament from neighbouring
parishes. While we are loth to believe that the abuses described
by Burns in his " Holy Fair " existed to any considerable extent
in our own midst, it must be admitted that a large influx of
strangers at those seasons cannot have been conducive to that
quiet which so well becomes religious exercises.
In the record of the collections we find some interesting
reflections of national events. For example : — " April 23rd,
1789 (a Thursday), Collected on the day of Thanksgiving for
the King's recovery, 7/3$." " April 18, 1793, Collected on the
King's Fast Day, 4s 5d Iqr. (4/51)." "March 6, 1796 (a
Thursday), Collected on a National Fast, 3/7$." Passing to
the strenuous years that culminated in the Battle of Waterloo,
we find : —
Jany. 13, 1814.— General Fast, 5/10$.
May 15, 1814. — Collected for the German sufferers, £14 14s Od,
9s.
Septr. 3, 1815.— -Collected for the Waterloo Fund, £21 Os Od,
£1 8s lOd.
No doubt the sums 9s and £1 8s lOd represent the ordinary
collections. We think it will be admitted that these special con-
tributions are extremely creditable to -Glencairn. If anything like
equal liberality was shown by other congregations throughout
the country a substantial sum must have been available for the
76 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
mitigation of suffering amongst our soldiers and their allies.
It is pleasing to find, that notwithstanding these pressing calls
the claims of deserving local institutions were not forgotten.
Thus, under date July 9, 1797, we read: — "Collected for
Infirmary, £6 6s Od; For Poor, 6s lid 2qr. (6/11$);" and on
Aug. 2nd, 1812 — " No sermon. Minr. preaching for the In-
firmary." Regular pulpit supply, if we may judge from the
frequency with which " No sermon " entries occur, does not
seem to have been a matter of serious concern to the Kirk-
Session. As many as seven entries, on an average, are to be
met with in the course of a single year. One curious entry of
this class occurs under date Novr. 1, 1812: — "No sermon.
High Flood." As no flood, however high, could have pre-
vented the attendance of any considerable number of people at
the sanctuary, we are probably justified in concluding that it
was the minister who was unable to reach the Church. We
know that the manse was situated close to the river Cairn, and
that it was liable to be surrounded by water when that stream
was in flood.
FINES, PROCLAMATIONS, ETC.
While the Church-door collections were of primary im-
portance as a source of revenue, the sum derived from penalties
levied on parties subjected to discipline must have formed a
considerable asset. It is not a little startling to find that down
to 1819 — the latest date covered by these Records — it was
customary to punish by fine for the sin of fornication. The
amount of the fine seems to have varied according to the heinous-
ness of the offence, and the means that the parties implicated
were supposed to have at their disposal. The lowest sum men-
tioned is 2s 6d, the highest £5 ; while in one case what is called
a " fine extraordinary " is recorded, the amount being £2 2s Od.
Public appearance on the stool of repentance continued in force
until 1831. Penalties were likewise exacted from parties marry-
KIRK-SESSION RECORDS. 77
ing " out of church." Between September, 1793, and February,
1794, four fines for this offence are mentioned, and they continue
to appear, although less frequently, from 1794 onwards. The
et cetera embraces such varied sources of income as special
donations, interest on loans, sums realised from the sale of
strayed sheep, and charges for the use of the mort-cloth. Some
of the benefactions that appear in this section are of consider-
able amount, and it is pleasing to notice that most of them are
from proprietors in the parish.
Octr. 16, 1790. — Contributions from Cormilligan's 3 sons, 10/6.
Novr. 14, 1790. — Contributions from Capt. Riddel and Wm.
[Burnet?], ll/.
Apl. 10, 1795. — Reed, from Sir Robt. Laurie a benefaction of
Five guineas for the benefit of the poor in this parish.
Apl. 22, 1795. — Reed, by Tererran a benefaction of two guineas
given by Mr Mosman.
Aug. 25, 1811. — From John Gibson of Glencrosh as a donation
to the poor, by the late Mr Gilbt. Gibson, £10.
July 10, 1812. — From James Smith of Jedburgh the following
donations to the poor: — Left by his father, £10; Brother,
£10; Sister, £5 = £25.
Novr. 26, 1815. — From Terrarran bequeathed to the poor of
this parish by the late Mr Gillespie of Peelton — £5 being
deducted for prop, tax — £45.
Deer. 18, 1815. — From Mr Forbes for the poor per Terrarran,
£5 5s Od.
Feby. 29, 1818. — David Wallace of Fleughlarge donation £5.
It will be seen from these extracts that the well-to-do in
the parish were not unmindful of their less fortunate neighbours,
and if this . was true of them as individuals it was likewise
true in their corporate capacity, for, under date Aug. 30th,
1818, we read : — " From the Heritors as part of a voluntary
assessment of £50 for the Poor, £10." Donations for behoof
78 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
of the poor seem to have been customary both at Marriages and
at Baptisms. The amounts are often small, but no respect of
persons is shown, for full particulars are invariably given as to
the date, the nature of the occasion, and the name of the donor.
INTEREST ON LOANS, ETC.
It is curious to find that the Kirk- Session conducted a very
considerable business as money-changers. Reference is made
to no fewer than nine bills or bonds due to the poor of Glen-
cairn, and held by the Session on their behalf, upon which
interest at the rate of 4 to 5 per cent, was paid annually. As
the drawees in nearly every instance are landed proprietors, it
may be inferred that the Session was careful to transact business
only with those who could produce ample security.
Another curious source of income is the sale of strayed
sheep. The earliest entry of this kind is Novr. 14, 1790 —
" From Terreran for a stray sheep, 2s." Except for the small-
ness of the sum realised, this entry may be considered typical
of its class. On subsequent dates such figures as 9s, 9s 9d, and
13s are recorded.
The only other source of income that calls for notice is the
fees charged by the Kirk-Session for the use of the mort-cloth —
a plush or woollen cloth kept to be laid on the coffin prior to
burial. The purchase of a cloth of this kind was authorised in
1723, when the charge for its use was fixed at Is sterling from
those residing within the parish, and Is 6d sterling from those
residing without. The amount derived from the hire of the
cloth cannot have been large, but it must have helped, in a small
way, to maintain the proper equilibrium between income and
outlay.
EXPENDITURE.
The most important duty of the Kirk-Session was the care
of the poor ; and the details given under the heading ' Expendi-
KIRK-SESSION RECORDS. 79
ture ' are valuable as an index of the way in which that duty was
performed : —
Feby. 13, 1795. — Dibursed extraordinary to the poor on acct. of
the inclemency of the season, £7 3s Od.
May 29, 1796.— To Barbara M'Lellan for her son to go to
Moffat Well, 4s.
July 10, 1796. — To Margt. Smith, Dunreggan, for a distressed
child to go to Moffat Well, 3s.
Xovr. 19, 1808.— To straw and labour for A. M'Turk's house,
13/.
Aug. 8, 1812. — | stone meal to the following persons (eight
names) at 56 per stone.
It would seem that alcoholic stimulants were rarely supplied
to the poor. Only three payments are mentioned — two for
wine and one for gin — making a modest total of 5/10 disbursed
during a period of twenty-six years. Purchases of clothing
material, such as " blew flannan," appear from time to time, and
payments for "slicing cloggs " and "scaling shoes" are of
frequent occurrence. Peat was evidently the staple fuel of the
parish. Against three payments for coal there are twenty for
peat, and it is noteworthy that the payments for coal do not
begin to appear until towards the close of the period covered by
the Records. A curious payment for fuel — whether coal or peat
is not stated — occurs under date January 5, 1793 : — " To William
Collow for money laid out in behalf of the late Jean Hunter for
fewel (sic) and a winding sheet, 5s." A hearse — probably the
first used in Glencairn — was purchased in 1784; the sum of
£6 Is 8d having been paid in July of that year to " Will. Collow
for the Hearse and for a receipt." Five years later the parish
was in possession of a new Church bell. The cost of the bell
and its erection is detailed as follows: —
June 15, 1789.— To the Church Bell, £9 Os Od.
Novr. 12, 1789.— To Wm. M'Aul, Smith, and Willm. Collow,
80 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Wright, for acct. for the Heritors for work at putting up
the Kirk Bell, £1 Is 3Jd.
June 29th, 1791. — Sum of Receivings, besides collections, since
last Deal, To which add, repaid by the Heritors, for the
Kirk Bell and putting it up, as per articles of Debursement
June 15th and Now. 12th, 1789, in the Treasurer's Book,
£10 Is 3d 2qr.
Apl. 27th, 1794.— To John M'Call for the handle of the Bell, 2/.
From time to time items of expenditure connected with the
setting up of the Communion tent are recorded, thus : —
June 19th, 1815.— Nails for the tent, I/.
June 22nd, 1817.— Setting up the tent, 5/2.
The summer of 1836 was probably the last occasion on which
the Communion was dispensed in the churchyard. In 1837
there is no mention of place in the Records, but in 1838 and
subsequent years we find that it was dispensed in the Church.
An entry — tantalising by reason of its vagueness — concern-
ing the parish library, occurs under date January 19th, 1794 : —
To the Kirk Officer, Dunscore, for intirrfations about Glen-
cairn Library, 6d.
The nature of these intimations can only be conjectured. It
appears that a "compliment of books " — 93 vols. in number —
designed for the beginning of a parochial library, was gifted to
the Kirk-Session of Glencairn by a Mr Ninian Crichton, of
London, in 1732, and that a second donation of 90 vols. was
made in 1733. It is clear, therefore, that a library existed in
Glencairn long prior to 1790, the year in which the poet Burns
wrote his famous letter advocating the formation of parish
libraries ; but whether there is anything connecting the entry with
the Burns letter, or the Bu'rns letter with the intimations made
at the Kirk of Dunscore, it were probably idle to inquire.
A flood of light is thrown upon the condition of the school-
master by such entries as these : —
KIRK-SESSION RECORDS. 81
Aug. 14, 1791.— To Jean Hench (School Wages, 1/6), 3/.
Octr. 15, 1793. — To Mr Lorimer, Schoolmaster, f of a year's
school wages for Margt. Smith's children at 1/6 (per
quarter), 4/6.
The following are also illuminative : —
July 1, 1791.— Postage letter from Dr Carlyle, I/.
(The writer was no doubt Dr Carlyle of Inveresk, the " Jupiter
Carlyle " of Kay's Edinburgh Portraits.}
June 4, 1793.— To Janet Goldie for bringing Nelly Gilchrist's
Cloaths from Thornhill, 6d. (Thornhill, it may be men-
tioned, is eight miles distant from Moniaive.)
March 1, 1795. — To John M'Turk for carrying a poor man to
Dunscore (seven miles distant), 4s.
Jany. 30, 1796.— To the postage of a letter from Mr Forbes,
inclosing a draught (sic) of £5 5s Od for the poor, 6d.
June 1, 1817.— Postage of a letter from Carlisle, 8£d.
The clerk was paid the modest salary of 10s 6d the half-
year. The precentor's remuneration for a like period was 5s.
The best paid man, and presumably the most important, was
the " bedal." In a minute dated Novr. 21, 1785, we read: —
" The Session unanimously agreed to augment the Sellary (sic)
of the Kirk -officer from sh.10 to sh.15 ster. on account of
the additional trouble he has with the Hearse."
One other curious fact connected with Church finance calls
for notice, and that is, the Church's liability to loss from " bad
brass " put into the plate on Sunday. In the earlier record of
the collections we find the following references to the subject: —
Sep. 29, 179-1.— Pr. exchange of 9sh. 6d bad brass for 4/6 good
money — lost, 5/.
July 20, 1795. — To loss upon bad brass, 2/1.
In the later volume there is no improvement : —
May 19, 1816. — Counterfeit silver and brass to be deducted,
11/4.
82
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Aug. 25, 1816.— Value for bad Half-pence, 1/2.
It is impossible to excuse the state of matters revealed by
these entries. All that can be said is that Glencairn was no
worse than many other parishes throughout the country.
Perhaps enough has now been said in regard to these old
Church Records. It will be seen that they touch the life of the
parish at many points, and while some regrettable things are
mentioned, it will gladly be recognised that there is not a little
that calls for gratitude.
CHAPTER IX.— EDUCATION.
Glencairn, in common with every parish throughout Scot-
land, lies under a debt of gratitude to John Knox for his far-
reaching and statesmanlike policy with regard to education.
The First Book of Discipline stipulated that "everie several
church have a scholmaister appointed, suche a one as is able,
at least, to teach Grammar and the Latine toung." As John
Knox's proposals were ratified by legislative enactment in 1633,
it is probable that a school would soon afterwards be established
in Glencairn. It is even possible that, educationally, our
parish was the envy of neighbouring communities, for it is
on record that the Rev. William Brown, A.M., by his will
dated 27th October, 1636, left " to the mantenance of ane
scoole at the Kirk, 100 merks." In 1725 the Kirk-Session of
Glencairn had under consideration the evils arising from non-
attendance, and in a minute dated Feby. 19th of that year we
read: — " The Sess. being informed yt. there are se'all boys and
Girls that spend their time about Mills and neither go to
School nor such as are able to work betake themselves to any
work. The Sess. Appoynt intima'ne be made from the pulpit
that those of the sd children who are able to work apply them-
selves to it. Such as are not able to work and their parents
not able to pay their School Wages the Sess. have agreed that
their School Wages be payd out of the collections, and that
with all expedition they be disposed of as befor."
We learn from the Records of the Presbytery of Penpont
that the Presbytery likewise was active in the supervision of
education throughout the bounds. In 1758 it appears, from
a copy of a sederunt of the Heritors of Glencairn dated 25th
August, 1758, printed in a Process of Sale (Craigdarroch
84 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Estate), Feby. 23rd, 1797, that, "£70 8s OJd of the funds
of the parish was placed in the hands of James Fergusson
of Craigdarroch to be applied towards the support of an
English School in the parish." Seventy pounds Scots does
not seem a large sum for the support of education in
a parish of the size of Glencairn. It must, however,
be remembered that schoolmasters were very poorly paid
in those days, and the allocation of this sum, small as it
undoubtedly is, may be accepted as proof that the Heritors
were prepared to advance the educational needs of the district
according to the means at their disposal.
NUMBER AND DISTRIBUTION OF SCHOOLS.
Our next glimpse of the educational affairs of the parish is
obtained in 1792, in which year the Rev. William Grierson
wrote his account of Glencairn for Sir John Sinclair's Statistical
Account of Scotland. He says : — " There are two public
schools, the one for Latin, with a legal salary of £8 6s 8d
sterling, the other for English, writing, and arithmetic, with a
salary of £4, by private donation. These schools used to be
kept at the Church, and at Minniehive, four years alternately
at each, by order of the heritors ; but that rotation has not
been observed for several years past." Further interesting
information bearing upon this departure is contained in a
minute of the Heritors dated 9th April, 1802, where it
is stated that " there was presented ^to the meeting two
petitions subscribed by Sundry Heritors and heads of families,
one of them praying to have the School removed down to Glen-
cairn Kirk agreeable to the former practise and agreement of
the Heritors, and the other that it should be continued at
Minniaive, where it now is." It appears from this that the
school had been removed without proper authority to Moniaive,
and that certain of the parishioners were no longer prepared to
EDUCATION. 85
acquiesce in the arrangement. Following upon their action we
find from a minute dated the first day of October following
that it was agreed " to set on foot a subscription paper for the
purpose of having an additional schoolmaster in the parish of
Glencairn."
The sequel is interesting. " 27th July, 1804. — The meet-
ing unanimously resolved and appointed, that as the Parish
of Glencairn is of very great extent, as one School could
not possibly accomodate the whole Parish, and as there has
been two Schools in it for many years, and sometimes three, the
two Schools shall be continued in it in their present stations,
the principal in the present Schoolhouse at Minniehive, the
second one in the present Schoolhouse at the church, and a
third one of an ambullary nature to accomodate the inhabitants
near the heads of the three waters of Dalwhat, Craigdarroch,
and Castlefairn, who are too great a distance from the Schools.
That the station of the school in Dalwhat water
shall not be above Benbowie and not below Drumloff. That
the station in Castlefairn water shall not be above Castlefairn,
nor below Craigneston, and that in Craigdarroch water not
above Knockachlie nor below Craigdarroch. The meeting also
appointed that the School should be kept in the above Station
on the water of Dalwhat for the first year, on that on the water
of Castlefairn for the second year, and on that on the water of
Craigdarroch for the third year, and regularly to return to the
said Stations in the above order in all the subsequent years."1
The new arrangement remained in force for upwards of a
quarter of a century, an excellent proof that the work of re-
organization had been well and carefully done; but a fresh
and apparently unforeseen development was impending. In
a minute dated 21st April, 1829, we read: — "The meeting are
unanimously of opinion that the three schools should be con-
1. Minutes oj the Heritors of Glencairn,
86 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
tinued in the Parish as formerly, viz., one at Minniaive, one at
Glencairn Kirk, and the third alternately as heretofore in the
three waters of Craigdarroch, Dalwhat, and Castlefairn, and
under these circumstances they find by a reference to the fore-
said Act (43 George 5, Cap. 54) that the salary for two or
more schools must be the value of three chalders of Oat Meal
at the rate of seventeen pounds two shillings and twopence
farthing each, and making a total of Fifty one pounds six
shillings and sixpence three farthings. The Rev. Mr Brown
moved, which was seconded by Mr Barber (Tererran), that of
this sum twenty-five pounds thirteen shillings and four pen ,e
stg. should be appropriated to the school at Minniehive, seven-
teen pounds two shillings and two pence stg. to the School at
Kirkland of Glencairn, and eight pounds eleven shillings and
one penny to the School to be kept in manner foresaid in the
three waters above mentioned, of which appropriation the
meeting approved."
Exactly a year and a day later the same heritors as
had unanimously agreed to continue the school at Kirkland
as formerly, decided to transfer the said school to Cross-
ford Bridge. The occasion of the change is set forth in
a minute dated 22nd April, 1830. " Sir Robert Laurie stated
that since the Society for Propagating Christian knowledge had
abolished the School at Glenriddle, a great number of the
children in the lower end of the Parish were deprived of the
means of education. He (Sir Rob. Laurie) would therefore
move that the school at the end of the church should be re-
moved as far down the Parish as Crossford Bridge, and if the
Heritors agreed to his motion he would most willingly give them
a site for the building." The meeting, we are told, "unani-
mously agreed to Sir Robert Laurie's motion, and decided to
receive plans of said schoolhouse and accommodation for the
Teacher." From a subsequent minute it appears that the
EDUCATION. 87
Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge had directed
their Factor, Mr Thomas Smith, " to discharge the account for
some extra work done to and at the School-house at Crossford
Bridge amounting to about £20," and also to present "the
desk, forms, etc., from their former school at Glenriddle."
Coming down to 1835, the date of the New Statistical Account,
we find that further interesting developments had taken place.
The Rev. John Brown, writer of the article on Glencairn, says :
— " There are five schools in this parish, of which three are
parochial and two unendowed. Latin and Greek are taught at
the parochial schools. The joint salaries of the parochial
schoolmasters amount to £51 6s 8d. The first and second may
receive each £20 a-year of fees; and the third £14. This sum
is unequally divided amongst the teachers — the first having
£25 13s 4d; the second, £17 2s 2Jd; and the third, £8 11s Id.
As the heritors pay the maximum salary none of the teachers
can claim a dwelling-house."
In 1856 the question of the erection of a new school at
Moniaive engaged the attention of the Heritors. The matter
was first mooted at a meeting held on the twenty-first of
February, but the proposal did not take definite shape until
the eighteenth December following, when a meeting of Heri-
tors was called " for the purpose of receiving the report of the
Committee appointed 21st Feb. last for looking out for a site
for the proposed new school." The minute proceeds: —
" Mr M'Call proposed the piece of ground belonging to Mrs
Barber provided it could be got at a reasonable sum, say £60
or £70, which was seconded by Mr Barber of Tererran. . .
Mr M'Turk did not approve of the site as the best but gave way
for the sake of unanimity. . . . The meeting afterwards
appointed a committee for the purpose of conferring with Mrs
Barber and her son as to the exact price of the property — to
procure plans of a schoolhouse to accomodate say 100 scholars
88 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
with the probable expense — also to correspond if necessary
with Mr Williamson to ascertain what he would give his pro-
perty for, and to report to an adjourned meeting to be held
here (Minnyhive) on the 2d day of Feb., 1857, at 12 o'clock
noon." Final details in the negotiations are awanting, but it
appears from the title deeds that the purchase was completed
27th May, 1857. On Mrs Barber's property in Chapel Street
the school was accordingly erected. In these days the old
school at Grainshead serves a humble but kindly purpose.
From aiding the education of the parish youth it has come to
shelter the sick and wandering poor.
With the passing of the Education Act of 1872 a new era
opened in the educational history of Scotland. For the first
time school management was placed upon a popular and repre-
sentative basis, and a great impetus was thus given to education
all over the country. In our own parish handsome new schools
have been erected at Moniaive and at Crossford, while at Craig-
muie important additions have been made so as to provide
adequate accommodation for scholars drawn from the more
outlying portions of Balmaclellan, Dairy, and Glencairn
parishes. By means of these three schools it has been found
possible to provide suitable elementary education for every
child in the district. The present School Board is composed
of the following five members :— Captain George Laurie Walker
of Crawfordton (Chairman) ; William Barber of Tererran ; Cecil
Emilius Laurie, Jarbruck; John M'Cheyne, Ingleston; William
Irving, Borland.
GRIERSON GLENCAIRN BURSARY.
The only educational endowment is known as the Grierson
Bequest, and is derived from certain funds left by James
Grierson of Beechhill in 1857. In 1889 the Commissioners
appointed under the Educational Endowments (Scotland) Act,
1882, made a number of alterations in the administration of
EDUCATION. 89
the Trust. The principal provisions of the scheme, as
amended by the Commissioners, are as follow : — Governing
Body — " The governing body shall consist of five persons, of
whom one shall be the Minister of the Parish of Glencairn, one
shall be elected by the Minister and Kirk-Session of the Parish
of Glencairn, two shall be elected by the School Board of the
said Parish, and one shall be elected by the Presbytery of Pen-
pont." Application of Income — "The governing body shall
apply the free income of the Endowment in establishing a
bursary for university education, which shall be called the
Grierson Glencairn Bursary, and shall be awarded by competi-
tive examination among those who have been pupils in public
or State-aided schools in the parish of Glencairn for at least
three years at any period prior to the date of examination.
The bursary, which shall consist of the free annual income
after deduction of necessary expenses, burdens, and taxes
affecting the Endowment, but shall not in any case exceed the
sum of £25, shall be tenable for such period not exceeding
three years, as the governing body may from time to time deter-
mine, at a university to be approved by the governing body.
If in any year no qualified candidate shall appear for the
bursary established in the immediately preceding section, the
governing body shall apply a sum of not less than £15 and
not more than £20 in giving a bursary for higher education,
which shall be called the Grierson Glencairn Bursary, and shall
be awarded by competitive examination among those who have
been pupils in public or State-aided schools in the parish of
Glencairn for at least three years at any period prior to the
date of examination, and whose age at the date of competition
shall not exceed fourteen years. The bursary shall be held for
two years at the Wallace Hall Academy or such school for
higher education or technical instruction as the governing body
may approve." In a subsequent section it is set forth, that if
in any year no candidate appears who is qualified in terms of
90 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
either of the two immediately preceding sections, the govern-
ing body is empowered " to receive applications from those who
have been pupils in public or State-aided schools within the
bounds of the Presbytery of Penpont. ' '
SCHOOLMASTERS.
A list of the schoolmasters of the parish — approximately
if not absolutely complete — compiled from the Kirk-Session
Records of Glencairn, Glencairn Free Kirk-Session Record, the
Minutes of the Heritors of Glencairn, and the Presbytery Book
of Penpont, may be of interest to many in the parish : —
James Aikman appointed 1694.
Thomas Boston ,, 1696.
John Gilchrist „ 1699.
John Grier ,, 1701.
Archibald Hadden „ 1718. (?)
(Blank in Presbytery Records.)
John Laurie appointed 1722.
James Brown prior to 1726.
(In 1726 he was appointed under-teacher in
the Grammar School, Dumfries.)
William Douglas appointed 1735.
James Hunter ,, 1745.
Robert Davidson prior to 1747.
Thomas Gray ... appointed 1756.
James Murdoch ,, 1759.
Daniel Martin prior to 1762.
John Fergusson demitted 1768.
John Brown prior to 1780.
James Gordon appointed 1788.
George Lorrimer prior to 1793.
Robert Gorden appointed 1802.
John Harkness „ 1804,
EDUCATION. 91
Charles Ramage demitted 1808.
David Morrine appointed 1823.
John Hastings demitted 1824.
George Hunter appointed 1824.
Adam Crinzean ,, 1832.
William Gibson „ 1841.
Adam Semple ,, 1864.
John Connacher ,, 1885.
Kirkpatrick Hunter ,, 1888.
Peter Jamieson ,, 1891.
James Ellis Steele „ 1900.
FREE CHURCH SCHOOLMASTERS.
Uzziah Donachy (?) appointed 1843.
George Bell „ 1843.
Alexander (?) Haining ,, 1845.
George Proudfoot ,, 1846.
William Fairley „ 1849.
Thomas Wilson „ 1856.
The regular schools were supplemented by private, or, as
they were commonly called, "adventure" schools. These
"adventure " schools were often conducted by women. Thus,
in An Abridged Statistical History of Scotland, by Jas. Hooper
Dawson (1853), we read that in 1837 Glencairn had three
parish schools with an attendance of 148, and two female schools
with an attendance of 70. Poorly equipped as such " adven-
ture " schools were, they did a good work in their day, and
many still living are ready to testify that to them they owe the
better part of their education.
CHAPTER X.— THE REBELLIONS OF 1715 AND 1745.
• The important part played by Glencairn in quelling the
insurrectionary movements of 1715 and 1745 forms an interest-
ing chapter in the local annals. No one who follows the course
of these Rebellions can fail to recognise that a considerable
portion of the Scottish people was deeply attached to the
Stuart dynasty. In Glencairn, however, the bloody persecu-
tion instituted by King Charles II. was too fresh in the mind
of the people for them to countenance any effort that aimed
at the restoration of a Stuart to the throne. No sooner,
indeed, were the mutterings of rebellion heard than Mr
Alexander Fergusson of Craigdarroch, and certain other
influential gentlemen in the south and west, convened a meeting
for the purpose of devising measures of defence. The gathering
was held at Dalmellington on the 18th March, 1714. Rae says
that among other important steps taken, one Wm. Scot, a
serjeant in the Castle of Edinburgh, was sent for by the
gentlemen and ministers in the Presbytery of Penpont, to assist
in training their people.1 The wisdom of this step soon became
evident.
The Earl of Mar, having completed his preparations in the
north, contemplated a descent upon the Lowlands. With the
view of preventing this, and also, if possible, of extinguishing the
Rebellion at its birthplace, the Duke of Argyle, the Royalist
commander-in-chief, formed a camp at Stirling and summoned
the friends of King George throughout the country to meet him
there.
The following is the text of a letter2 addressed by the Duke
to Mr Alexander Fergusson of Craigdarroch : —
1. Rae's Hist, of Rebellion, p. 43.
2. Ibid., p, 229.
THE REBELLIONS OF 1715 AND 1745. 98
Edinburgh, 16th Sept., 1715.
SIR, — Since my arrival at this Place, having received
certain Information; that the disaffected Highlanders, and the
King's other enemies are assembled in a considerable Body,
and in a rebellious manner threaten the Government, I have
not thought it safe to trust entirely to the number of Troops
that are at present in this Country; and therefor I have
called for the Assistance of the well-affected Boroughs first
judging they might more easily come out than the Country
because of the Harvest. Your Lord Lieutenant not being yet
come down to give Orders for drawing out such other of the
well-affected People as should be thought necessary : And I
being convinced of your Zeal and good Inclination to serve our
King & Country and looking upon you as my particular
Friend; I apply to you on this Occasion and desire you would
forthwith come to Stirling, with what number of well-armed men
you can get together to join the King's Regular Forces. This
will be of infinite service to his Majesty, and will not fail to be
acknowledged as such.
Since the King's Enemies are gathering together, it will
be highly for his Majesty's service, that all the well-affected Men
in your Country that are armed, should hold themselves in
readiness to march, and even to begin to assemble. Though
your Number of Men be not at first to your wish, yet, you may
march what you can get together, and they may still be in-
creasing as the necessity of Affairs requires.
I am, Sir,
Your Most faithful and obedient Servant,
ARGYLE.
Prompt action followed receipt of this letter. To quote
again from the historian Rae: —
" As soon as Craigdarroch had received this Letter, he
acquainted the well-affected Gentlemen and People therewith;
94 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
and apply 'd himself carefully to draw together what Men he
could get on a sudden, for His Majesty's Service: And about
60 Men in the Paroches of Glencairn and Tinron (who were
sufficiently provided with Firelocks, Swords, and Bayonets, and
other necessary Accoutrements) having inlisted themselves to go
to Stirling; He prevail'd with John Gibson of Auchinchain, to
be their Captain, assign'd them their other proper Officers; and
provided them also with Drum & Colours. Upon the 22d of
September they set out from Minyive, and marched to the Keir
Moss not far from Penpont, where the People of the Neigh-
bouring Parishes were assembl'd in Arms, with Sir Thos. Kirk-
patrick of Closeburn, James Grierson of Capinoch, John
Dalrymple of Waterside, Thomas Hunter of Bateford, and
several other Gentlemen and Ministers of these Parishes. Being
arrived there, he set up the Standard, desiring such as were
willing to go with him to turn into it ; at the same Time shewing
them the Justice of the Cause and the Necessity of this Under-
taking for the Defence of their Religion, Liberties, and Country,
as well as of their only rightful Soveraign King George, as
Motives to induce them to comply with his Desire. The
Gentlemen likewise encourag'd them to it; and particularly Sir
Thomas Kirkpatrick, who in a handsome Speech to the People
promis'd to such of 'em as were his own Tenants, that he
would defray their Charges in going and coming, and give each
of them Eightpence a Day, while they .attended the Camp.
Hereupon severals turn'd in to the Standard, and many others
shew'd 'emselves willing, but that they could not yet go,
because of their Harvest, which was that Year very late, and
because they had got so short Advertisement.
" Next Day Craigdarroch and his Men set forward in their
Way to Stirling, to which Place he was accompani'd by the said
Thomas Hunter of Bateford, Robert M'gachan of Dalquhat, Mr
Simon Riddel, Minister of Tinron, Mr John Pollock, Minister
THE REBELLIONS OF 1715 AND 1745. 95
of Glencairn, Mr James Hunter, Minister of Dornock; and
several others. He stay'd at Stirling till he was ordered by
the Duke of Argyle to come Home, and take care of the Affairs
of the Country; and then he returned leaving the Men there,
for Eight Weeks Time, who did Duty all the while, as the
Regular Troops did, in the Castle of Stirling as the General
directed."1
It would appear that a portion of these volunteers from
Glencairn and Tynron, possibly such as could not conveniently
go to Stirling, were appointed to do duty at Dumfries; and in
the Treasurer's Accounts of Dumfries Town Council we find
certain entries of refreshments supplied to them at the town's
charges.
Oct. 31, 1715.
To Glenekern men and Tinran men for Bread to
them by the provist's order ... ... ... £0 2 6
Nov. 4, 1715.
To Dallwhat for Glenkern and Tinran men for
drink to them by bailley hynds order ... 0 7 6
Nov. 7, 1715.
To John Gordon which he gave to his own Com-
pinie and Craigdarouch's at Loughmaben
gate poort by the provist's orders ... ... 0 6 6
The comparatively large outlay for " drink ' ' as compared
with " bread ' ' invites comment, but it is probably no more
than a reflex of the usages of the times.
Turning from this interesting glimpse of the men of Glen-
cairn leaving Moniaive with drums beating and colours flying,
and their doing garrison duty at Stirling for eight weeks " as
the regular troops did," we find that in the interval the
1. It may be' of interest to state that the " General " mentioned by
Rae was the Honourable Colonel John Blackader, a son of Glencairn,
who had emerged from his well-earned retirement to take command of
the volunteers from the south and west (see Chap. XII., p. 113).
96 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
insurrectionary movement had well nigh spent itself. The
Jacobites had declared their intention of burning the house of
Craigdarroch, and the houses of others who went to Stirling ;
the county town had likewise been threatened; but all these
brave boastings came to nothing. By the middle of November
the rebel cause was crushed in the south, and a few months later
the Pretender was a fugitive in France.
THE TORTY-FIVE.
To the later and more serious Rebellion of 1745 we need
not refer further than it concerns the local history. At the
time of this second rising Mr James Fergusson, younger of
Craigdarroch, was Commissioner to the Duke of Queensberry,
and from letters addressed by Mr Fergusson to His Grace, we
glean valuable information as to the course of events in Niths-
dale.
In a letter dated 2nd September, 1745, apparently written
by Mr Fergusson after attending a meeting of the Commissioners
of Supply, he refers to the good inclination of the people as
evidenced by "their desire to have arms put in their hands,"
and adds : — " I go to Drumlanrig to-morrow, and as the post
does not go from this till Wednesday, I have left this with
Commissary Goldie, that if anything further occur twixt now
and then he may add it."
Subsequently a committee was appointed to confer with the
Presbytery on the crisis, and in a minute of a meeting, held at
Dumfries on 4th September, we read that " the Presbytery
agreed, and recommended to each minister of the bounds to
take the most prudent method in their several parishes to get
an account of the number of arms and fencible men in their
respective parishes, and to bring in a report thereanent."
Notwithstanding energetic action on the part of the ministers,
considerable apathy was shown by other members of the com-
munity, with the result that, at the end of three months, very
THE REBELLIONS OF 1715 AND 1745. 97
little progress had been made in the direction designed. The
county was soon to pay dearly for this inaction.
When Charles retreated from Derby he crossed the Esk
at Longtown. A portion of his forces then proceeded north-
wards, but the main body, led by himself, marched upon
Dumfries. He entered the town without opposition, and forth-
with demanded a money payment of no less a sum than two
thousand pounds sterling. The Burgh was further required to
deliver one thousand pairs of shoes, together with all arms,
" against eight o'clock the following night." Sir Robert Laurie
of Maxwelton, Glencairn, and a number of other gentlemen
came handsomely to the aid of the Burgh at this juncture, but,
despite the most strenuous efforts, the sum of £1195 was all
that could be raised by the time stipulated, and when Prince
Charles left Dumfries the following day he carried with him Mr
Walter Riddle of Glenriddle and Ex-Provost Crosbie as hostages
for payment of the balance. These gentlemen were afterwards
liberated, but not until the Prince's demands had been met in
full.
The course of events during the closing days of December,
1745, is outlined by Mr Fergusson in a letter to His Grace
dated the 28th of the month: —
" Since I wrote your Grace, the 18th of this, the face of
affairs is much changed here. Upon Friday, the 20th, the
Highland army crossed Esk, and part of them came that night
within 8 miles of Dumfries. The 21st the greatest part of
them came to Dumfries, the rest having gone to Moffat, and a
few came that night within 8 miles of this. The 22nd a few
came to Thornhill, but most of them remained in Dumfries.
The 23rd, they came all here and to the adjacent villages.
The 24th, they left and went to Douglas, only some part of
them lodged that night in Leadhills and Wanlockhead, and
some near Sanquhar. The 25th, forty of them entered Glasgow
and demanded quarter for their whole Army in the kirks,
98 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
meeting houses, and other publick buildings, and said they
would not go into private houses. I have yet heard nothing
further of their route. At Dumfries they behaved very rudely,
strip 'd everybody almost of their shoes, obliged the town to
give them £2000 and a considerable quantity of shoes, and
carried away Provost (Ex-Provost) Crosbie and Mr Walter
Riddell, Merchants, as hostages for £1000 more, which was
yesterday sent them to relieve these gentlemen.
" I was at Thornhill, the 21st, in the morning (when I
heard of their approach) with a company of 100 men, which I
mentioned in my last, and about 50 Seceders. I retired here
and keepd them together till the evening, when I had certain
advice the greater part of the Highland Army was in Dumfries,
and that everybody had laid down their arms; upon which I
dismissed the people and desired them to secure their arms
and horses. The 22nd, in the morning I left this (Drumlanrig)
with all my family except 9 servants by daybreak, and went
to my fathers house at Craigdarroch. The 23rd, about seven
in the morning, two letters from Murray, their Secretary, and
another from one Riddell, a Fife gentleman and an acquaint-
ance of mine, who is with them, were brought here, and sent
from this by express to Craigdarroch, where they found me
about ten. The contents were telling me their Prince was to
lodge here that night, and requiring me to provide quarters
for their whole Army in this house and the adjacent village.
They neither mentioned their numbers nor directed me what
quantity was to be got, but only desired I would cause kill a
great number of blade cattel and sheep, and provide a great
quantity of meal. I retired immediately into the Galloway hills,
about 8 miles further, without giving them any answer, and
carried the person who brought me the letters with me. . . .
I returned the 25th about eleven at night, and found most of
the house worse than I could possibly imagine before I saw it.
THE REBELLIONS OF 1715 AND 1745. 99
. . . . May God grant there may never be any such guests
here "
Under date 7th January, 1746, Mr Fergusson again writes
to the Duke : — " I mentioned in my last that I had wrote the
25th Decbr. to His Royal Highness the Duke of Cumberland
offering to do everything in my power for forwarding his Army
should it come this way, and that I waited his orders. I sent
him enclosed the two letters I got from the Highlanders
requiring me to provide quarters for them here. Mr William
Kirkpatrick, Sir Thomas' Brother, and my Father, who were
then with me at Craigdarroch, wrote another letter to the same
purpose to His Royal Highness. We sent them by Mr William
Moody, minister of Glencairn. . . . People of all Ranks
here have shown so much their zeal to serve His Majesty King
George, that if the Rebels return this way I fear what we have
already suffered will appear a trifle in comparison of what we
must yet expect."
Happily all cause for anxiety was soon at an end. The
insurgent army retreated northward, and their defeat on
Culloden Moor, which speedily followed, crushed for ever all
the hopes Charles Stuart cherished of occupying the throne of
his fathers.
6
CHAPTER XL— HISTORIC FAMILIES.
THE FERGUSSONS OF CRAIGDARROCH.
The Fergussons of Craigdarroch are the oldest Glencairn
family of whom we have any authentic information. Fergus
de Glencarn witnesses a charter early in the thirteenth cen-
tury. In 1398 John Fergusson, dominus de Craigdarroch, was
settled in the lands of Jarbruck by virtue of a charter granted
by a Crawford. By the middle of the fifteenth century
Matthew was in possession, and he was succeeded by his son
John. In 1508 John Fergusson of Craigdarroch and his son
Thomas were involved with Lord Maxwell and Sir William
Douglas of Drumlanrig in an attack on Lord Sanquhar, Sheriff
of Nithsdale. The contemporary accounts shed a curious
sidelight upon the state of law and order of the period. In
the brulzie or " grate f eicht, ' ' as Sir James Balf our calls it,
several of Lord Sanquhar's supporters, his kinsman, Robert
Crichton of Kirkpatrick, among the number, were slain. The
Fergussons were brought to trial for Crichton 's death on 30th
September, 1512, but they were acquitted on the ground that
the deceased Robert Crichton was " our soveraine lordis rebell,
and at his home."1
Even at this early period the lairds of Craigdarroch were
men of position and influence. In Monypenny's Chronicle,
published in 1587, sixty-five lairds and gentlemen are enume-
rated as residing in Dumfriesshire and the Stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, and among them we find the name "Fer-
gusson of Craigdarroch." William Fergusson sat as a
commissioner from the Presbytery of Penpont in the Glasgow
Assembly of 1638, and assisted at the dethronement of the
bishops. In 1640 we find him with a seat in Parliament.
1. Pitcairn's Criminal Trials, Vol. L, p. 79.
HISTORIC FAMILIES. 101
From that date onwards different members of the family were
chosen to represent Dumfriesshire in the old Scottish Parlia-
ments. John was a member of the Parliament of 1649, and
he was succeeded by Robert in 1650. Robert espoused the
Royalist side in the Civil War, and an account is extant of a
skirmish near the Clean in 1651, in which he headed a hand-
ful of resolute men, who engaged and put to flight a detach-
ment of Cromwell's "Ironsides." In 1667 he was one of a
committee of three appointed by the Privy Council to investi-
gate the charges of oppression and malversation preferred
against Sir James Turner. The committee considered that a
great many illegal exactions and misdemeanours of other kinds
had been proved against Sir James and those under his com-
mand, and, in consequence of this finding, Sir James was
shortly afterwards dismissed from the King's service.1 John
Fergusson, the next head of the house, was a devoted Presby-
terian, and he fell fighting against Claverhouse at the Battle of
Killiecrankie in 1689.
Alexander Fergusson, the descendant of John, was a loyal
follower in his father's footsteps, and raised a company
of volunteers to oppose the Pretender in 1715. He was
a member of Parliament in 1702-7 and 1715-22. In 1709
he married Anna, the " bonnie Annie Laurie" of Scottish
song, and youngest daughter of Sir Robert Laurie of Max-
welton; and it was a son of this union, also an Alexander,
who was the hero of the famous bacchanalian contest celebrated
by Burns in his poem of "The Whistle." Alexander secundus
became eminent both as an advocate and as a Freemason. He
was one of the guiding spirits of the " Nithsdale St. Paul Lodge
of Freemasons, No. 139, Moniaive," erected 8th February,
1768, and as Provincial Grand Master of the Southern or Dum-
fries District he laid the foundation-stone of the New Bridge
1. Wodrow, Vol. II., p. 101.
102 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
at Dumfries in 1791. He likewise presided on the historic
occasion of the inauguration of Robert Burns as Poet Laureate
of the Canongate Kilwinning Lodge of Freemasons, 1787, an
event to which the poet himself refers with satisfaction in a
letter to John Ballantine, Esq., dated January 14th, 1787.
The Right Hon. Robert Cutlar-Fergusson of Craigdarroch,
eldest son and successor of Alexander, was born in 1768, and
called to the English bar in July, 1797. He is said to have
given early promise of future eminence, and he soon became
known as an accomplished lawyer and scholar. He took a
prominent part in founding the Society of the Antiquaries of
Scotland in 1780, and had the honour of being elected one of
the first Vice-Presidents of the Society. In 1799 the Earl of
Thanet, Mr Fergusson of Craigdarroch, and three other
commoners were charged with joining in an attempt to assist
Arthur O'Connor, who was then being tried for high treason,
to escape from justice. The Earl of Thanet and Mr Fergus-
son were found guilty and sentenced to be fined and imprisoned.
Mr Fergusson disputed the justice of the verdict, and, by way
of vindicating his reputation, he published a verbatim report
of the whole proceedings (see Appendix C., Bibliography}.
Subsequently he proceeded to India, where he speedily attained
a foremost place in his profession. On returning to this country
he was elected in 1826 as member of Parliament for the
Stewartry of Kirkcudbright, and he continued to represent that
constituency until his death. In 1834 he was appointed Judge-
Advocate-General, and at the same time sworn of the Privy
Council. He was succeeded by his son, Robert Cutlar
Fergusson, J.P., who died 6th October, 1859, leaving issue: —
1. Robert Cutlar, late of Craigdarroch.
2. Archibald William Cutlar.
3. Alexander Edward.
Robert Cutlar Fergusson, J.P., counties of Dumfries and Kirk-
HISTORIC FAMILIES. 103
cudbright, late Captain Scots Guards, married 5th February,
1889, Rose, elder daughter of John Grant Hodgson of Cabalva,
Co. Hereford, and died 1904, having by her had issue —
1. Ella Cutlar, now of Craigdarroch.
2. Esme, twin with her sister.
Born 12th October, 1889. l
In the Records of the Clan Fergusson (p. 375) we are told
that " the principal cadet branches of the House of Craigdarroch
were those of Isle and Caitloch. One of the family of Isle
represented Dumfriesshire in the last Scottish Parliament, and
Fergusson of Caitloch was a fugitive in Holland, while his
family suffered great hardships prior to the Revolution."
Space, however, prevents us from noticing these collateral
branches in detail.
CUNINGHAM FAMILY.
EARLS OF GLENCAIRN.
Alexander Cuningham, Lord of Kilmaurs, was created first
Earl of Glencairn by James III. on 28th May, 1488. He is
supposed to have been descended from one Warnebald, of
Danish extraction, who came from the North of England in the
12th century in the retinue of Hugh de Morville, Constable of
Scotland. Sir William Cuningham, his grandfather, had
acquired lands in Glencairn through marriage with Margaret,
daughter of Sir Robert de Dunyelston, and it was from these
possessions, which had been conferred upon Sir Robert by King
David Bruce in 1373, that Alexander took his title.
By the Act Rescissory, passed in the first Parliament of
James IV., 17th October, 1488, all creations of new dignities
granted by that Monarch's father since 2nd February preceding
were annulled, and in consequence Robert, Lord Kilmaurs,
eldest son of the Earl of Glencairn, was deprived of the title.
In 1503 the Act Rescissory was in turn abrogated, and in the
1. Burke's Landed Gentry.
104 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
person of Cuthbert Cuningham, the next in descent, the earldom
was restored to the family. By his countess, Lady Marjory
Douglas, eldest daughter of the fifth Earl of Angus, Cuthbert
had a son, William, fourth Earl. This nobleman was one of
the ablest and most powerful barons of his time. He was
appointed high-treasurer of Scotland, 25th June, 1526, but held
that office only till 29th October following. His power and
influence were so great, that when the English King contem-
plated an invasion of Scotland, his lordship undertook to convey
his army from Carlisle to Glasgow " without stroke or chal-
lenge."1 He died in 1547. His son, Andrew, was likewise
prominently associated with the events of the period. In 1539,
when Cardinal David Beaton succeeded his uncle in the See of
•St. Andrews, Andrew Cuningham, son of the master of Glen-
cairn, James Hamilton, brother to Patrick Hamilton, and the
celebrated George Buchanan, the historian, were severally
apprehended and imprisoned on a charge of heresy, and if they
had not found means to escape, it is probable that all would
have perished in the flames.2
Alexander, fifth Earl of Glencairn, sometimes called " the
good Earl," was one of the chief promoters of the Reformation
movement in Scotland. He took a prominent part in the
negotiations with the Queen Regent, and throughout this test-
ing and trying time showed consistent loyalty to the Protestant
cause. He was a man to be reckoned with on the field of
battle as well as in the council chamber, and at Langside, which
settled for ever the claims of the unfortunate Mary, he bore
himself with conspicuous bravery. His eldest son William,
sixth Earl, was a Privy Councillor of James VI. and one of the
commissioners nominated by Parliament for the projected
Union with England in 1604. He married Janet, daughter of
Gordon of Lochinvar, by whom he had two sons and four
1. Scottish Nation, Vol. II., p. 310.
2. Biographia Scoticana, p. 25.
HISTORIC FAMILIES. 105
daughters. His eldest son, and successor, James, the seventh
Earl, comes prominently before us in connection with a feud of
long standing between the Cuninghams and the Montgomeries.
On the 19th day of November, 1591, he was ordained to find
caution to the extent of £20,000 within eight days under pain
of being proclaimed a "rebel at the horn." Later, for non-
fulfilment of a " decreet ' ' passed by the Lords and Council and
Session, he was charged to deliver up his houses of " Kilmar-
annock, Finlaystoun, Stevenstoun, Kilmaweris, and Glen-
cairne," to the official executor of the court. It is probable he
suffered considerable material loss by these proceedings.
Certain it is that in 1611 Lord Kilmaurs and his father-in-law,
Sir Robert Gordon of Lochinvar, sold to Stephen Laurie the
lands of Maxwelton, reserving only a small plot of ground, a
few feet square, for the sake of the title, and that the lands
thus disposed of were the last of the Cuningham possessions in
Glencairn.
From this date the history of the Earls of Glencairn
becomes merged in the history of Scotland. Suffice it to say
that the family continued to play a prominent part in national
affairs down to 1796, when the male line of the main stem
became extinct. It has been observed that collateral branches
of old families often linger in a parish long after the main stem
has disappeared, and it may be of interest to mention that an
elderly maiden lady who claimed to be a descendant of the
Earls of Glencairn, was laid to rest in the Cuningham burying
ground in Glencairn Churchyard as recently as the year 1883.
THE LAURIE FAMILY. — j-
The connection of the Laurie family with Glencairn com-
menced early in the seventeenth century. The founder was
Stephen Laurie, a Dumfries merchant, who in 1611 purchased
from James, 7th Earl of Glencairn, and his father-in-law, Sir
Robert Gordon of Lochinvar, the lands of Bellibocht, (not
106 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
" Bithbought " as given by M'Dowall), Shancastle, and Max-
welton, in the parish of Glencairn. He married Marion,
daughter of John Corsane of Meikleknox, M.P. for Dumfries,
and had three children. His son John, who succeeded, married
in 1630 Agnes, daughter of Sir Robert Grierson of Lag. He
espoused the cause of the Covenanters and, as already men-
tioned, had to pay a fine of £3,600 Scots for his non-conformity.
Robert, the next in the succession, married Mary, daughter of
Robert Dalzell of Glense. Unlike his father he took the side
of the King, and became one of Claverhouse's most active
abettors. On 21st March, 1685, he received from King James
VII. "for his merits " the title and honour of Knight Baronet,
but in Glencairn he is remembered as one who sullied the
fair fame of the name he bore. Robert Laurie married,
secondly, Jean, daughter of Walter Riddell of Minto, writer,
Edinburgh, by whom he had three sons and four daughters.
One of the daughters, Anna, born at Maxwelton, 16th Decem-
ber, 1682, grew up, as M'Dowall says, "to be the most beauti-
ful Dumfriesshire lady of the day, and the heroine of a song
which has rendered her charms immortal."
"BONNIE ANNIE LAURIE."
The writer of the song in honour of " bonnie Annie
Laurie " was William Douglas of Fingland, in Kirkcudbright-
shire, a soldier of fortune, attached to the house of Stuart.
He was the eldest son of Archibald Douglas of Morton Castle,
and of Marion Kennedy of Auchtyfardel, who were married at
Morton Castle, 10th May, 1670. His commission as an ensign
in the Royal Scots is dated 21st September, 1688. It appears
that the object of his affections, instead of keeping the " pro-
mise true," which she is said to have made, preferred the suit
of Mr Alexander Fergusson of Craigdarroch, and her marriage
to that gentleman was duly celebrated in the Tron Kirk, Edin-
burgh, on 29th July, 1709. She long survived her husband,
HISTORIC FAMILIES. 107
and died at Friars' Carse, Dumfriesshire, on April 5th, 1764,
in the eighty-second year of her age. As for her poet-lover,
fate has proved doubly unkind to him. Supplanted in love, he
has likewise been supplanted in song, for the version of " Max-
welton Braes " that we now sing is not the original version,
but a modern adaptation which we owe to Lady John Scott, a
gifted member of the Spottiswood family. As originally
written the song consisted of two verses, which Chambers says
are "in a style wonderfully tender and chaste for their age."
A copy of these less familiar verses, printed as they originally
appeared in Charles Kirkpatrick S'harpe's Ballad Book (1832),
is here appended.
Maxwelton banks are bonnie,
Where early fa's the dew;
Where me and Annie Laurie
Made up the promise true;
Made up the promise true ;
And never forget will I,
And for bonnie Annie Laurie
I'd lay down my head and die.
She's backit like a peacock,
She's breastit like a swan,
She's jimp about the middle,
Her waist you weill may span,
Her waist you weill may span,
And she has a rolling eye ;
And for bonnie Annie Laurie
I'd lay down my head and die.
Annie Laurie sleeps by the side of her husband in Glen-
cairn Churchyard. Her resting-place abuts on the church in
which she worshipped. Less than a mile away are the " bonnie
braes " of her childhood; and close at hand the crystal Cairn,
108 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
upon whose waters she must often have looked in those joyous
days, croons as of yore its own melodious song.
That she was a woman sound of judgment, as she was fair
of countenance, is shown by her will, which we subjoin: —
" I, Anna Laurie, spouse to Alexr. Fergussone off Craig-
darroch, Forasmuch as I considering it a dewtie upon everie
persone whyle they are in health and sound judgment so as
to settle yr. worldly affairs that yrby all animosities betwixt
friend and relatives may obviat, and also for the singular love
and respect I have for the said Alex. Fergussone, in caise he
survives me I do heirby make my letter will as follows : First, I
recommend my soule to God, hopeing by the meritorious
righteousness of Jesus Christ to be saved; secondly, I recom-
mend my body ito be decently and orderly interred; and in the
third plaice nominate and appoynt the sd. Alexr. Fergussone
to be my sole and only executor, Legator, and universall intro-
metter with my haill goods, gear, debts, and soums off money
that shall pertain and belong to me the tyme of my decease or
shall be dew to me by bill, bond, or oyrway ; with power to him
to obtain himself confirmed and decreed exr. to me and to do
everie thing for fixing and establishing the right off my spouse
in his person as law requires; in witness whereoff thir pntts.
written ( ?) be Johne Wilson off Chapell, wryter in Dumfries,
are subd. by me at Craigdarroch the twenty-eight day of Apryle,
Im vijc and eleven [1711] years, befor the witnesses the said
John Wilsone and John Nicholsone his servitor.
" ANN LAURIE.
"Jo. WILSONE, Witness.
"JOHN HOAT, Witnes."
To return to the succession, Sir Robert Laurie died in
1698. His son, Sir Robert (2nd Bart.), who succeeded, was
killed by a fall from his horse, 28th February, 1702, and the
estate and title devolved upon his brother Sir Walter (3rd
HISTORIC FAMILIES. 109
Bart.). Walter married Jean, daughter of Sir Patrick Nisbet
of Dean. He was succeeded by his son Sir Robert (4th Bart.),
who married Christian, daughter of Charles Erskine of Alva, a
Lord of Session. Sir Robert died 28th April, 1779, and was
succeeded by his son, Lieut. -General Sir Robert Laurie (5th
Bart.). He was Knight-Marshal of Scotland, Col. of 8th
Dragoons, and M.P. for Dumfriesshire from 1774 to 1804, the
year of his death. His only son, Admiral Sir Robert Laurie of
Maxwelton, K.C.B., (6th and last Bart.), who succeeded, was a
distinguished naval officer. He died without issue in 1848, and
was succeeded in the estate by a nephew, John Minet Fector,
who died in 1868. The present representative of the family
is the Rev. Sir Emilius Laurie, Bart., who assumed by Royal
Licence the name of Laurie, in lieu of Bayley, on succeeding
to the estate of Maxwelton in 1887.
GIBSONS OF GLENCROSH.
Although the Gibsons of Glencrosh do not appear in Glen-
cairn until the middle of the seventeenth century, different
members of the family play an important part in the public
life of the parish between that period and the close of the
eighteenth century. In 1654 John Gibson of Glencrosh pur-
chased from George Cunningham of Craignestoun " the two
merk land called the Three Riggs with pertinents in the barony
and parish of Glencairn," and these lands were held by him
together with the lands of Glencrosh. It must have been either
this John Gibson or a son of his who was penalised for his
pronounced Covenanting sympathies by a fine of £600 Scots.
He married Janet Gibson, and had four sons, by one of whom,
John, he was succeeded. John died in May, 1680, and was
succeeded by his eldest son, James. In the will of James
Gibson, dated 17th March, 1684, he directed that his eldest
son, John, was to intromit with the moveables and make pay-
ments of the others' portions at the sight of John Gibson of
110 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Auchincheane, Robert Herries in Castlefairne, William Gibson
of Dibben, his brother, and Robert Grier in "Mynyve," whom
be appointed tutors to his children. The " John Gibson of
Auchincheane " here mentioned is undoubtedly the John
Gibson who took command of the men of Glencairn when they
marched to Keir Moss on the first mutterings of rebellion in
1715. Evidently he had inherited more than the name of his
forebear, John Gibson, Covenanter. John Gibson succeeded to
Glencrosh on the death of his father in March, 1684. He did
not, however, receive sasine till April 9th, 1711. His eldest
son, who was likewise named John, succeeded in 1724. He
was a Commissioner for Land Tax in Dumfriesshire from 1728
to 1738. He married on December 22nd, 1726, Sarah Thom-
son, and had three children, viz., Samuel (b. 1727), John, and
a daughter Nicholas. Samuel, who succeeded, was likewise a
Commissioner for Land Tax. He died without issue in 1756,
and as his brother John had predeceased him, Glencrosh passed
to their sister Nicholas. Gilbert Gibson, another member of
the family, was a Land Tax Commissioner in 1753, and Robert
in 1762. In the Act of 1768 the name of Gibson again appears,
but no Christian name is given.
Glencrosh continued in the possession of the Gibsons until
about 1870, when the estate was sold to John M'Millan of
Holm, in whose family it continues.
Other families might be mentioned as holding lands in the
parish of old, such as Danyelstoun or Dennistoun, Crawford,
Crichton, Rorison, Riddell, Corson, M'Gachan or M'Caughie,
Smith, Stewart, Collow, Brown, and Moffat. All these once
important families have disappeared or left but feeble traces
of their former greatness. At the present time the landed
families most prominently identified with the parish are : —
The Fergussons of Craigdarroch.
The Lauries of Maxwelton,
HISTORIC FAMILIES. Ill
The Walkers of Crawfordton.
The M'Calls of Caitloch.
The Connells of Auchencheyne.1
The M'Millans of Glencrosh and Woodlea.
The Barbers of Tererran.
The Martins of Dardarroch.
In Glencairn most of the land-owning families are resident.
The advantages of this do not require to be enlarged upon, and
it is safe to say that there are very few parishes in which the
relations between proprietor and tenant are so cordial in
character.
1 . The estate has just passed by purchase into the hands of William Kennedy
Moffat, Esq.
CHAPTER XII.— FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS.
Mention has already been made of James Renwick, of
Robert Cutlar-Fergusson, of "Bonnie Annie Laurie," and of
other famous sons and daughters of Glencairn. In this chapter
we propose to notice yet a number of others who, for their
works' sake, deserve to be held in remembrance.
(1) LIEUT. -CoL. JOHN BLACK ADER.
This " Brave soldier and devout Christian " was born at
Bardennoch, Glencairn, on the 14th September, 1664. He
was the fifth and youngest son of the Rev. John Blackader,
"outed" minister of Troqueer, Kirkcudbrightshire. Of his
early life very little is known with certainty. It is on record,
however, that he entered the army as a cadet in his 25th
year, and that he was present at the affair of Dunkeld in
August, 1689.1 He afterwards served under the Duke of Marl-
borough in Queen Anne's wars, and is said to have been present
at close upon forty different actions. A Diary which he kept
during his various campaigns, together with numerous letters
belonging to the same period, escaped destruction by the
merest accident, for they had been sold to a tobacconist
as papers of no value, when curiosity on the part of the
purchaser led to the discovery of their true worth. It was
these papers that supplied the principal materials for the Life
and Diary of Lieut. -Col. J . Blackader, which was prepared
for the press by Andrew Crichton, the biographer of his father,
in 1824. The Diary seems to have been designed as a spiritual
register of the writer's experiences, and it shows us piety flourish-
ing under circumstances apparently the most adverse. Why he
1. An account which he wrote of that obstinate encounter was printed
and circulated in the papers of the time, and the MS. is now preserved in
the Advocates' Library, Edinburgh.
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 113
embraced a military life we are not told, but we may be sure
that the step was not taken without due consideration. The
immorality and profanity of the army are often referred to in
the Diary, and it is plain that his strictness of life exposed him
to much obloquy and reproach. He was a man, however, who
had the courage to be singular, and his adherence to what he
believed to be right was firm and inflexible.
In the autumn of 1711 Col. Blackader retired from the
army and took up his residence in Edinburgh. During his stay
there he was elected a member of the Society for Propagating
Christian Knowledge, and an elder of the College Church.
Early in June, 1714, he removed to Stirling, where he lived the
quiet uneventful life of a country gentleman. In 1715 he
was unexpectedly called from his retirement to take command of
a company of Volunteers, raised in the South and West to assist
in quelling the insurrectionary movement set on foot by the
friends of the young Pretender, but on the suppression of the
Rebellion in the spring of 1716 he resumed his former retired
pursuits. In the following year he was nominated Deputy-
Governor of Stirling Castle, an appointment that seems to
have been bestowed in recognition of the services he had
rendered his country during the Rebellion, and he continued
to hold the office until his death on 31st August, 1729. His
remains were interred in the West Church of Stirling, within
which, on the south wall, near the pulpit, a marble tablet has
been erected to his memory.
(2) JAMES FISHER.
James Fisher, blind musician, composer, and author, was
born in High Street, Moniaive, about the year 1759. He lost
his sight by small-pox when only two years of age. Even in
infancy he evinced a love of music, and it became not only a
source of amusement to him, but also the chief means of gain-
ing a sustenance in later life. Leaving Moniaive, he resided
114 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
for a number of years at Ochiltree. During his residence
there he wrote several epistles in rhyme to Thomas Walker,
John Lapraik, and other "rhyme-composing brithers," some
of whom were correspondents of Burns. These effusions he
included in a volume entitled Poems on Various Subjects, printed
at Dumfries in 1790. Poems, chiefly Scottish, appeared in tne
same year, and an Elegy on the Death of David's Psalms in
1805. In addition to his poetical works, Fisher published two
volumes in prose, A Spring Day (1803) and A Winter Season
(1810). The former of these was received with considerable
favour, and is said to have passed into at least five editions.
He likewise composed a number of tunes for the violin.
Fisher removed from Ochiltree about 1809. His wife
died in 1808, and is interred in Glencairn Churchyard, where
a freestone monument bears the following curious tribute to
her memory: —
" To the dear remembrance of Isabella, spouse to James
Fisher, author of 'The Spring Day,' who departed this life
April 27, 1808, having been nearly the space of 22 years his
only pious, amiable, and affectionate wife.
My Isabella's precious dust here lies
In sweet repose as in a bed of rest,
While full of joy I know 'bove yonder skies
Her better part rejoices with the bless 'd.
Next to her Heavenly Lord while here she lived,
Her husband's care engrossed her thoughts and ways,
Nor willingly, even once, him griev'd.
This tribute due he to her memory pays."
(3) ALEXANDER CLERK.
Alexander Clerk, farmer, Caulside, (Calside), is entitled to
notice as the author of a small volume of poems published at
Dumfries in 1801. The volume contains a number of meritori-
ous pieces in Scots, amongst others a poem "On Potatoes,"
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 115
which has often been attributed — although, we believe, errone-
ously— to Burns. Both the late Dr Craufurd Tait Ramage, of
Closeburn, and the late Mr James Shaw, of Tynron, were of
opinion that the poem was the work of Clerk, and the use of the
word "cronie"1 in the opening stanza certainly points to a
Dumfriesshire rather than to an Ayrshire origin.
" Gude day ! my auld acquaintance, cronie,
I'm blyth to see thee bloomin' bonny;
O' fruits an' flow'rs there are na mony
Compar'd wi' thee,
I question much if there be ony,
At least wi' me."
The family stone in Glencairn Churchyard is inscribed as
follows : —
" In memory of Robert Clerk, who died in Calside, August
13th, 1800, aged 65 years. Also of Margret Sharp, his
spouse, who died March llth, 1799, aged 61 years. Also his
son, Alexander Clark (sic), who died at Dumfries, 5th Novem-
ber, 1808, aged 46 years. Also Ketron Hastings, his wife,
who died 12th August, 1810, aged 34 years. Also John Clark,
son of Robert Clark, who died at Hillside, Parish of Keir,
aged 39 years."
(4) REV. ROBERT GORDON, D.D.
This eminent divine was born at Old Crawfordton, Glen-
cairn, in the year 1786. He was only six years of age when
his father died. The family was then in straitened circum-
stances, although there is good reason to believe that at a later
date Dr Gordon was regarded by his friends as the rightful heir
to the title and lands of Kenmure. With characteristic
modesty and devotion to his work, however, he would take
no step to establish his claim. Naturally the widowed mother
1. Crony, a potato, Dumfr. (Jamieson).
116 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
was concerned for her boy's education, and she felt greatly
relieved when a kind-hearted schoolmaster in the neighbouring
parish of Tynron offered to teach him free of charge. Robert
would seem to have made good use of his opportunities, for, nine
years later, he was appointed master of the school at Kirkland in
his native parish, a position his father had held before him. He
afterwards filled a more important educational appointment at
Perth, and finally prepared for the ministry, first at Aberdeen,
and afterwards at Edinburgh. In 1816 he was ordained parish
minister of Kinfauns. Four years later he was translated to
St. Cuthbert's Parish, Buccleuch Street, Edinburgh. He was
subsequently called in rapid succession to Hope Park Church,
the new North Church, and finally in 1830 to the High Church,
Edinburgh, a charge then considered the first in the Church of
Scotland. Dr Gordon presided at the great Convocation in
Edinburgh in November, 1842, called to consider the crisis
that had arisen in the Church, and it was generally admitted
that his solemn words of address gave a fitting tone and charac-
ter to the proceedings on that momentous occasion. At the
Disruption he left the Established Church, and he was followed
by nearly the whole of his large congregation. A list of his
published writings will be found in the Bibliography (Appendix
C). He died at Edinburgh on the 21st October, 1853. His
death, it has been said, "deprived the Church of Christ of one
of its brightest ornaments and strongest pillars."
(5) WILLIAM BENNET.
William Bennet, poet and journalist, was born near Bar-
buie, Moniaive, 29th September, 1802. From boyhood he
was fond of rhyming, and in his nineteenth year he published
a volume of verse, entitled The Sabbath, and other Poems. In
that volume the author's name appears as "Bennoch,"
but in subsequent works the spelling was altered to
"Bennet." About the time of this first venture in authorship
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 117
he was a frequent contributor to the Dumfries Courier, and in
1825-26 he conducted the Dumfries Monthly Magazine.
Towards the close of 1826 he accepted the editorship of a
Liberal newspaper called the Glasgow Free Press, but he after-
wards withdrew from the Liberal party and conducted a Con-
servative journal, The Glasgow Constitutional. Sennet's Glas-
gow Magazine was founded by him in 1832. In addition to the
volume mentioned, he published, Traits of Scottish Life and
Pictures of Scenes and Character (1830), Songs of Solitude
(1831), 'The Chief of Glen Orchay, a poem in five cantos
(1840), and Sketches of the Isle of Man.
After residing successively in Ireland and in England, Mr
Bennet took up his abode at Burntisland, where he devoted
upwards of twenty-five years of his life to a new translation of
the Scriptures. Although a few specimens of the fruits of his
labours were published anonymously in 1875 under the title,
Truth Unlocked, by a Pioneer Witness, the stupendous task was
never completed. Mr Bennet died at Edinburgh, whither he
had removed, on 3rd June, 1882. He is interred beside his
wife in the cemetery at Burntisland.
(6) REV. JOHN INGLIS, D.D., F.R.S.G.S.
John Inglis, the distinguished missionary, was born in
Ayr Street, Moniaive, 8th July, 1808. He received his
early education at the village school, and after working for
a time as a mason he formed the design of entering the ministry,
and was enrolled a student of Glasgow University. On com-
pleting his studies he was licensed by the Reformed Presby-
terian Presbytery of Paisley in 1842. In 1844 he went to New
Zealand as a missionary to the Maoris. Eight years later he
proceeded to Aneityum, the most southerly of the New Hebrides
group of islands, and it is as the apostle of the New Hebrides
that John Inglis deserves to be remembered. When he set
foot on the island of Aneityum the natives were heathen canni-
118 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
bals. When he left it twenty-five years later the whole island
had been brought under Christian influence.
Dr Inglis, on returning to Scotland, passed through the
press a translation of the Scriptures into Aneityumese. He
likewise published Reminiscences of Missionary Life and Work
in the New Hebrides (1887) and Bible Illustrations from the
New Hebrides (1890). The degree of D.D. was conferred on
him by the Senatus of Glasgow University in 1883. He died
at Lincuan Cottage, Kirkcowan, Wigtownshire, 18th July,
1891, in the eighty-fourth year of his age.
(7) REV. WILLIAM FRANCE.
William France, second son of the Rev. James France,
minister of the Secession Church at Moniaive, was born 31st
December, 1809. On his being licensed to preach no fewer
than three competing calls were addressed to him by con-
gregations in Cupar, Dunfermline, and Paisley. By the de-
cision of the Synod, which then determined appointments in
such cases, the calls from Cupar and Dunfermline were set
aside, and the call from Paisley sustained. Mr France was
accordingly ordained by the Presbytery of Glasgow to be
colleague and successor to Dr Ferrier, Oakshaw Street United
Secession Church, Paisley, on 2nd July, 1833.
During a ministry extending to close upon forty-eight years
Mr France took an active part in the business of the large and
influential Presbytery of Paisley and Greenock. He likewise
fulfilled many important duties in the committees of the Church.
In 1877 he had the honour of being called to occupy the
Moderator's chair of the Supreme Court, and it was generally
agreed that he discharged the duties of his high office with
conspicuous ability. He died April 20th, 1881, and was laid
to rest in Paisley Cemetery.
(8) REV. ALEXANDER GRIERSON, A.M.
Alexander Grierson was born at Bankhead, Glencairn, on
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 119
27th October, 1817. His father, Alexander Grierson, was
descended from a Covenanting family, the Griersons of
Lochenkit, while his mother, Margaret Cunningham, was a
woman of true piety. Alexander was the youngest of a family
of nine. He early developed a taste for books, and on leaving
Crossford School, Glencairn, he was enrolled as a pupil at
Dumfries Academy. He carried off many prizes, and at the
time of leaving the Academy he was the first Latin scholar of
the year. In 1830 his father left Bankhead and entered upon
a tenancy of the neighbouring farm of Straith. The Rev. Dr
Gordon, already mentioned, was a frequent visitor at Straith,
and Alexander was wont to declare that Dr Gordon's high-
toned conversation was a source of deep and abiding influence.
On recovering from a protracted attack of typhus fever, he
entered Glasgow College as a student at the opening of the
session of 1835-6. Shortly afterwards he accepted a temporary
appointment as mathematical master in Wigtown Academy.
In the session of 1838-9 he returned to college, and at the
close of 1842 he received the degree of Master of Arts with
Honours. He then proceeded to Edinburgh, and completed
his studies in the Edinburgh Divinity Hall under Dr Chalmers.
When the Disruption came Mr Grierson joined the Free
Church. In May, 1844, a unanimous call was addressed to
him by the Free Church Congregation at Irongray, Kirkcud-
brightshire. He received a similar call from Ecclefechan,
Dumfriesshire, but many circumstances combined to determine
him in favour of Irongray, and his ordination there took place
on 4th July, 1844. Devoted to his work, and winning the
respect of his people, he spent a very happy life at Irongray.
Mr Grierson was twice married: first to Miss Jessie Hyndman
Miller, daughter of Alexander Miller, merchant, Glasgow, and
afterwards to Miss Anne Hodge, daughter of Archibald Hodge,
accountant, Paisley. He died 5th May, 1880, and was buried
120 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
in Glencairn Churchyard, where a plain granite stone marks nis
resting-place.
(9) JOHN HYSLOP.
John Hyslop, "The Postman Poet," was born at Kirk-
land, Glencairn, 9th February, 1837. His father was a
labourer in the employment of Sir Robert Laurie of Maxwelton
at a wage of between eight and ten shillings a week, and the
boy's education, according to Murdoch, was " all compressed
within one year. . . . mostly spent at an auld wife's
village schule."1 In 1852 the family removed to Kilmarnock.
There John obtained employment as a letter carrier, and he
continued to act in that capacity until shortly before his death
in April, 1892. A small volume of poems from his pen was
published in 1882, and a memorial volume, containing his
collected verses, appeared in 1895. He is allotted a place in
Murdoch's Living Poets of Scotland, where his poem, " Fever
Stricken," and other products of his muse, are mentioned with
approval.
Shortly before his death he contributed a set of verses,
entitled "The King has called me," to the columns of the
Kilmarnock Standard, which we here quote in full.
THE KING HAS CALLED ME.
The King has called me to his side to-night,
Bring me white garments — raiment pure as snow,
For all things must be clean, within, without,
When I into His Presence-chamber go
To praise His name who now has stoop'd so low.
Two shining ones but now His message brought
Here to this lower room wherein I dwell,
And, while their glory flooded all the place,
They said in tones clear as a silver bell,
" The Master calls for you, and all is well."
1. Recent and Living Scotch Poets, 1881,
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 121
I hear the music in the upper rooms,
My soul like pent bird panteth to be free ;
When that has passed beyond life's prisoning bars,
Then burn or bury, do what pleaseth thee
With the worn cage that is no longer me,
For I shall neither know, nor hear, nor see.
O'er the cold clod where for a space I dwelt
No loud lamentings make, nor sob, nor groan,
No useless flood of tears, nor vain regrets,
Nor wringing hands for me when I am gone.
Through death's dark vale and up the golden stairs ;
Christ's hand in mine, I go not forth alone,
But go to meet the King upon His Throne.
Sometimes, perchance, amid the hurrying years,
With friends in shady nook or wooded glen,
You'll say, " He coined his soul's best thoughts in words,
And sent them rushing through his ready pen
In songs of hope to cheer his fellow-men."
If any songs of all the songs I've sung
Make any music where life's discord mars
God's harmonies, and through the souls of men
Goes echoing on to heal some hidden scars,
Then I shall hear it from beyond the stars !
(10) WALTER PATON, J.P., D.L.
Walter Paton was born at Dunreggan, Moniaive, in 1838.
Leaving his native village in his fifteenth year, he went to
Glasgow, Where he entered the employment of Messrs David
Black & Co., wholesale warehousemen. Five or six years later
he started business as a retail draper on his own account, first
in High Street, and afterwards in Jamaica Street. Subse-
quently he entered the wholesale trade, and at the time of his
death he was a partner in the firms of Messrs Walter Paton &
122 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Co., general warehousemen, and Messrs Paton & Moultrie, oiled
garment manufacturers, both of Virginia Street, Glasgow.
Mr Paton was a shareholder in the City of Glasgow Bank,
and suffered severe financial losses when that ill-starred concern
came to grief. In 1884 he was elected a member of the Town
Council of Glasgow. Four years later he was raised to the
magisterial bench. When the municipalisation of the tramways
came up for consideration he was made convener of the new
Tramways Committee, and under his vigorous management the
former horse haulage system was converted into the present
successful electric system. He thus earned for himself the
familiar cognomen of "the pioneer of the cars." Among his
other activities Mr Paton was a member of the Govan Parochial
Board, of the Clyde Trust, and of Hutcheson's Educational
Trust. He was also a Justice of the Peace for the City of
Glasgow. As an elder of Pollokshields West United Free
Church he took an active part in Mission work, especially
amongst the young. In 1904 he was presented by a large body
of subscribers with his portrait in oils, and other testimonials,
in recognition of his valuable public services.
He died at his residence, Strathcairn, Aytoun Road,
Pollokshields, on May 25th, 1906, and was laid to rest in the
Necropolis of the city he had served so well.
(11) JOHN DALZIEL.
John Dalziel, of the Free Church Mission, Nagpur, India,
deserves mention as a worthy son of the parish. Born 14th
February, 1838, he decided while still a young man to devote
himself to Mission work, and proceeded to India. After
labouring for several years with devotion as a catechist or
teacher, he died of cholera at his post, 13th November, 1876,
aged thirty-eight years. He was survived by a widow and a
family of two sons and four daughters. Both of the sons
became doctors, one in Nigeria, the other in Calcutta. One of
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 123
the daughters elected to follow in her father's footsteps, and
entered upon Mission work at Calcutta, where she died. The
other members of the family are now resident in Edinburgh.
(12) REV. ALEXANDER TODD.
Alexander Todd was born at Moniaive, 13th October,
1845. His father was a mason to trade, and Alexander, when
studying for the ministry, supported himself by following the
same calling. Thus, as a working mason, he helped to build
the walls of the new Glasgow University, Gilmorehill, within
which he was afterwards to study. While attending college he
took an active part in evangelistic work, and he deserves to be
remembered as one of the noble band of workers who pene-
trated the wynds and closes of Glasgow, and helped to set the
housing of the poor in the forefront of the burning questions of
the day.
In 1876 he was ordained by the Presbytery of Glasgow as a
Missionary to Madras. After a brief period of service he, with
the sanction of the Foreign Missions Committee, transferred his
labours to Chingleput, where he conducted a successful Mission
until loss of health compelled him to return home. Failing
to regain health in Scotland, he was urged to go to New
Zealand, and he sailed for that country in 1882. He bene-
fited so much by the change that he was soon able to accept
a charge in North East Valley. Thereafter he was called to
the pastorate of Hampden congregation, where he laboured,
happy in the esteem and love of his people, until his death,
10th February, 1887. He was buried where he died, and his
attached congregation have since erected to his memory a
granite monument, which bears the inscription: —
124 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
3n dfcemorg of
THE REV. ALEXANDER TODD,
who died at the Manse, Hampden,
10th February, 1887, Aged 41 Years.
And of his Daughter
ISABELLA,
Who died 13th October, 1886,
Aged Eight Months.
II. CORINTHIANS, v., i.
(13) ROBERT MACKILL. *
Robert Mackill, founder of the firm of Robert Mackill
& Co., shipowners, Glasgow, was born at Dungalston, near
Moniaive, in 1848. On leaving his native parish he entered
the office of Messrs Burrell & Son, Glasgow, of which firm he
eventually became a partner. In 1881 he started the firm of
Robert Mackill & Co., and under his management as senior
partner a large commercial connection was soon formed.
Although it was only at rare intervals that Mr Mackill
visited Glencairn, he never ceased to take a warm interest in
the parish. Almost from the commencement of the Glencairn
and Tynron Horticultural Society he offered a number of prizes
annually for the encouragement of horticulture in the district-,
and in 1898 he gifted three stained glass windows to Glencairn
Free Church, primarily as a memorial of his father and mother,
but likewise as a token of his love for the home and the Church
of his youth. He died at Glasgow, 12th March, 1906, in his
fifty-eighth year.
Before leaving this part of our subject we must refer to
one who, although not born in Glencairn, was long prominently
associated with the life of the parish. We refer to the late
Colonel Sir George Gustavus Walker of Crawfordton. Sir
George succeeded to the estate of Crawfordton on the death
FAMOUS SONS AND DAUGHTERS. 125
of his father, Mr John Walker, D.L., in 1857. He afterwards
purchased Jarbruck and the Hill of Peelton, and on the latter
property he built in 1863-66 a handsome mansion, where he
resided until his death on 5th August, 1897. Sir George's
public life began in 1855, when he joined the Dumfries-
shire Militia, at the age of twenty-five, with the rank of
Captain. He afterwards devoted a large part of his time to
developing and perfecting the defensive forces of the country.
In 1859 he appeared in the political arena as an independent
candidate for ' the Dumfries Burghs, against the late Mr
William Ewart. Although unsuccessful at the poll on that
occasion, he was returned unopposed as member for the County
in 1865 in succession to the late Mr Hope-Johnstone of Annan-
dale. He had the distinction of being appointed Aide-de-
Camp to the Queen in 1884, and knighthood was conferred
upon him in 1892. The following appreciation by one who
knew him intimately forms a fitting tribute to his memory: —
" There was in him an instinctive hatred of anything that bor-
dered upon duplicity and time-serving, and he would condemn
such conduct in language forcible and true. He knew what
he felt and meant himself, and he took care that others knew
it also. Such thorough-going, outspoken honesty is especially
valuable in a soft and selfish age, when principle often gives
way to expediency, and men ask not what is right and what
is true, but what is easy and profitable and likely to bring in a
quick return. ... As long as health and strength were
given him he wrought loyally for others, for home and family,
for country, and for Queen ; now he rests from his labours, and
his works do follow him."1
It only remains to indicate briefly how the parish is taking
part in the life and work of the present day. It will be seen
that Glencairn is represented by her living sons and daughters
1. The Rev. Sir Emilius Laurie, Bart., B.D. In Memoriam Sermon.
126 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
in many spheres. In the Church we have the Rev. William
Neve Monteith, B.D., parish minister of Elie; the Rev. Hugh
Carmichael Walker, M.A., rector of Wooton, Canterbury; also
the Rev. Charles Henley Walker, M.A., who, along with two
sisters, Jessie Eleanor and Edith Maud, is engaged in missionary
work in India ; while in the lay part of Church work, in agricul-
ture, in parish and county government, and other spheres — for
we can mention only a few of his activities — we have William
Barber, Esq. of Tererran, M.A., J.P. The medical profession
is represented by Professor James T. Wilson, of Sydney Univer-
sity; and by Doctors Borrowman, Proudfoot, Blackley, Kidd,
and Monteith ; nursing by Miss Mabel Caroline Walker, formerly
matron Soldiers' Home, Pietermaritzburg, now matron Soldiers'
Home, York ; education by Mr James Fergusson^Morpeth ;
journalism by Mr William Fergusson, Manchester,1 and Mr
William Dickie,Wsub-editor of the Dumfries and. Galloway
Standard; the navy by Frederick Murray Walker, Commander
R.N. ; the army by Captain James Charles Walter Connell, 1st
Battalion King's Own Scottish Borderers; Major William M'Call
of Bardennoch, 3rd Battalion K.O.S.B. ; Captain John C. Mon-
teith, 1st Battalion Bedfordshire Regiment; Captain George
Laurie Walker of Crawfordton, late Captain Argyle and Suther-
land Highlanders ; and Colonel Claude Villiers Emilius Laurie,
C.B., D.S.O., late Commanding Officer 3rd Battalion K.O.S.B.,
a worthy foster-son of the parish. Outside the professions there
are many who hold responsible appointments in the Civil Service
or fill positions of trust in the commercial sphere. As time
passes on we doubt not that other sons and daughters will arise
to maintain the honourable record.
_* 1. Since this reference was penned William Fergusson has passed to his rest, -f
CHAPTER XIII.— BURNS AND GLENCAIRN.
The transcendent fame of the poet Burns confers distinc-
tion upon any place associated with either his personality or
his poetry. As Glencairn was one of the Dumfriesshire
parishes over which he exercised supervision as an exciseman,
and Crossford one of the places regularly visited by him
in the discharge of his official duties, the poet-gauger's con-
nection with the parish may be said to have been of a some-
what intimate character. Whether Burns in the course of his
visits entered Glencairn from the south by way of Dunscore, or
from the north by way of Tynron, cannot be stated with cer-
tainty. Part of an Excise book is in existence in which the
places of call appear in the following order: — "Thornhill,
Penpont, Cairnmill, Tyneron, Crossford, Dunscore." This
probably implies that he travelled up the valley of the Nith,
and returned by the valley of the Cairn. Be that as it may,
his visits to Crossford must often have brought him into contact
with such friends as Riddell of Glenriddell, Laurie of Maxwel-
ton, and Fergusson of Craigdarroch, and it may safely be
assumed that to the poet Glencairn had other memories than
those associated with
" Searching auld wives' barrels,
Och, hon! the day!"
It is to this period that the song of " The Whistle " belongs,
and although the scene of the famous bacchanalian contest
which it celebrates was Friars' Carse, in Dunscore parish, the
contestants — who were the three gentlemen we have just named
— were all connected territorially with Glencairn. The
"minute of bett " possesses a curious interest, and may here
be quoted: —
" The whistle gained by Sir Robert Laurie (now) in posses-
128 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
sion of Mr Riddell of Glenriddel, is to be ascertained to the
heirs of the said Sir Robert now existing, being Sir Robert
Laurie, Mr Riddell of Glenriddel, and Mr Fergusson of Craig-
darroch, to be settled under the arbitration of Mr Jn. M'Murdo,
the business to be decided at Carse, the 16th of October, 1789.
"(Signed)
" ALEX. FERGUSSON.
"R. LAURIE.
" ROBT. RIDDEL.
" Cowhill, 10th October, 1789.
" JNO. M'Murdo accepts as judge.
" GEO. JOHNSTON, witness, to be present.
"PATRICK MILLER, witness, to be pre. if possible."
THE CBAIGDARROCH WHISTLK.
The victor in the strange contest was Mr Alex. Fergusson,
and the whistle upon which he blew the " requiem shrill ' ' of
the competitors he had vanquished is now among the heirlooms
of the Fergusson family. It is of interest to notice that the
first Scottish winner of the trophy, of whom we have any know-
ledge, was the father of " bonnie Annie Laurie," and that the
historic contest, sung by Burns, was between two of Annie
Laurie's grand-nephews and a grandson.
There are other passages in the poet's published writings
that link his verse to Glencairn. The set of elegiac verses
commencing
" Fate gave the word, the arrow sped, ' '
was addressed by the poet to Mrs Fergusson of Craigdarroch
BURNS AND GLENCAIRN. 129
on the death of her son, a young man of promise. His friend
and patron Robert Riddell of Glenriddell has been honoured in
no fewer than four sets of verses. There are likewise verses
addressed to Mr William Nicol and Mrs Walter Riddell. It
was long believed that Lagganpark, in Glencairn, was the
scene of the convivial meeting celebrated by Burns in the
song, "Willie brewed a peck o' maut," but Dr Currie's state-
ment on this point may now be considered discredited. If the
meeting really took place at Laggan it is difficult to conceive
what object the poet could have had in saying " the meeting was
held at Moffat."1 Moreover, William Nicol did not purchase
Laggan until the end of March, 1790, and as two verses of the
song are quoted by Burns in a letter written in October of the
previous year, it seems reasonably certain that Dr Currie is in
error when he says that the verses were written in honour of
William Nicol's house-heating on entering the farm of Laggan.
To Glencairn, however, undoubtedly belongs the distinc-
tion of having furnished Burns with the only subject that ever
seriously engaged his attention as a would-be dramatist.
Writing to the Countess of Glencairn from Ellisland in Decem-
ber, 1789, he says: — " I have turned my thoughts on the drama.
. . . . Does not your ladyship think that an Edinburgh
theatre would be more amused with affectation, folly, and
whim of true Scottish growth than manners which by far the
greatest part of the audience can only know at second hand?"
Chambers suggests that the poet's ambition in the direction of
the drama had been stimulated by reading English plays and
visiting the Dumfries theatre; but, from whatever source
derived, it is evident from a letter written by his friend Mr
Ramsay of Ochtertyre to Dr Currie that it was cherished for
some considerable time. Dr Ramsay, describing a visit paid to
the poet in the autumn of 1790, says: — "We fell into conversa-
1. Letter to Cax>tain RiddeU, 16th Oct., 1789.
130 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
tion directly and soon got into the mare magnum of poetry.
He told me that he had now gotten a story for a drama, which
he was to call Rob Macquechan' s Elshon, from a popular story
of Robert Bruce being defeated on the water of Cairn, when
the heel of his boot having loosened in flight he applied to
Robert Macquechan to fit it, who, to make sure, ran his awl
nine inches up the King's heel." "What," says Chambers,
" even so lively a wit could have made of such an incident as
Rob Macquechan 's elshon we cannot tell. It does not seem to
have ever gone beyond an intention."
It is possible, however, that there were details in the story
not mentioned by Dr Currie's correspondent, and in this connec-
tion it is interesting to compare the legend as we have it to-day
with the version given by Mr Ramsay. M'Caughie — this, it
appears, is the correct form of the name — was a cobbler to trade
and very deaf. When King Robert the Bruce asked for repairs
to his boot heel the cobbler replied "Dae what?" (do what?).
The request was repeated, but with no better result. Out of
patience with the apparently dull-witted cobbler, the King in a
loud and somewhat peremptory tone again stated his request.
This time the cobbler understood what was wanted, and not only
undertook the job but also performed it so well that the Bruce
bestowed upon him a grant of lands to be called Dae-what
(Dalwhat). This story, it need scarcely be said, is more
ingenious than reliable. The place-name Dalwhat is almost
certainly far older than the days of King Robert the Bruce, and
its meaning as given elsewhere, if less romantic, is certainly
far more illuminative.1
1. It does nob follow that Bruce never visited Glencairn. On the
contrary, traditions of his presence in the parish are extremely persistent,
and whether or not we accept the highly circumstantial account given by
John Gordon Barbour in his Unique Traditions of an engagement with
the English a little to the east of Moniaive, in which Bruce personally
commanded, it is at least probable that the brave assertor of Scottish
independence must often have passed through the parish in the course of
his journeyings between Ayrshire and the south-west of Scotland. In
BURNS AND GLENCAIRN. 131
The Rev. Dr King Hewison, of Rothesay, a recognised
authority on literary and antiquarian subjects, has recently
suggested that Burns 's "Address to the Deil " is associated with
Glencairn. He thinks it probable that the poet derived his
inspiration from an account1 published (Glasgow, 1772) by John
Stevenson, Land Labourer, of a personal encounter which he
had with Satan in the policies of Craigdarroch. The poem
certainly contains verses that recall Stevenson's curious account,
and it is noteworthy that the idea of the Address was suggested
to Burns, as he himself declares, by " running over in his mind
the many ludicrous accounts and representations we have from
various quarters of this august personage." The point, unfor-
tunately, does not admit of verification. Once more, Burns 's
references to James, Earl of Glencairn, are of interest as
addressed to one who derived his title from the parish. Deep
as the poet's obligations to that estimable nobleman un-
doubtedly were, they have been amply discharged, for he has
embalmed his memory in imperishable verse.
" The bridegroom may forget the bride,
Was made his wedded wife yestreen ;
The monarch may forget the crown
That on his head an hour has been ;
The mother may forget the child
That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;
But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,
An' a' that thou hast done for me!"
Bain's Calendar of Documents relating to Scotland (Vol. II., p. 311) we
find an interesting reference to the presence of the Scots army in the
near neighbourhood of Glencairn in the autumn of 1301. " William de
Dorem his bachelor, to the K, Informs him that this Monday next after
the feast of St. Matthew, a spy came to him at Peblys from Nithsdale, and
told him for certain that the Scots who were in Galloway had retreated
towards Nithsdale, and this Sunday last were at ' les Kellys," and would
be on Monday after at Glencarn, but whither from thence they would
' draw,' he did not certify him. Whereon he sent the news at once to
all the K.'s garrisons, that they should be careful of the K.'s ordnances
and honour as lately commanded, by God's aid."
1. A Rare Soul- Strengthening and Comfortiny Cordial for Old and Youny
Christians.
CHAPTER XIV.— INDUSTRIES, PAST AND PRESENT.
The chief industry of the parish is agriculture. Down to
near the close of the eighteenth century the soil was cultivated
in an extremely primitive fashion. In illustration of this it may
be mentioned that less than a hundred years ago men and even
women were occasionally yoked to the plough and the harrow
in much the same way as horses are yoked to-day. An intelli-
gent villager, still living, remembers seeing the whole of a large
feu at the Neiss cultivated in this fashion, a mother and her
daughter being yoked to the plough, while a male member of
the' family held the shafts. In another instance, still more
recent, all the harrowing of a considerable plot of ground in the
neighbourhood of Moniaive was done by one of the daughters of
the family dragging a large bundle of thorns, weighted with
stones, over the surface of the ground. It may be readily
understood that the crops raised under such simple methods of
tillage were extremely poor.
The more intelligent farmers were beginning to shake
off the fetters of custom, however, and a great impetus was
given in this direction by the establishment in 1784 of the High-
land and Agricultural Society of Scotland. This Society, by
means of its publications, induced land-owners to consider the
possibility of improving their estates, and in a short time a new
interest began to be taken, not only in the improvement of land,
but also in all else that concerned the pursuit of agriculture.
"Soon after the second Rebellion," says M'Dowall, "increased
attention was paid to tillage by the farmers of Nithsdale.
Fields were enclosed, waste lands were reclaimed; shell-marl
and lime lent their fertilizing influence to the soil."1 There
1. History of Dumfries, 3rd Edition, p. 600.
INDUSTRIES, PAST AND PRESENT. 133
were some, however, who refused to be influenced by such
"giddy-headed projectors," and there were others who, while
less conservative, were either too dull-witted or too indolent to
profit by the example of their more enterprising neighbours.
An individual of the latter class is said to have conveyed a load
of lime to the centre of one of his fields, where, having dumped
it down, he remarked, with the air of one who had done all that
could reasonably be expected of him, " There, that shou'd
shairly warm your auld hairt." Other mistakes of a more excus-
able kind were made. Thus, some were tempted by the wonder-
ful results produced to carry the system of liming too far, and
we are told that the consequences were in many instances dis-
astrous.
Simultaneously with improved methods of cultivation, the
erection of march and sub-division fences became general.
This conferred two distinct benefits upon the farmer. It re-
duced the labour of tending cattle, and it helped to clear the
land of a superabundance of stones. Stone fences are now
being replaced to a large extent by wooden palings, but we are
disposed to agree with the shrewd old farmer who was quoted
one day in our hearing : " I like a stane. dyke ; when it tumbles
doon there's aye something left to begin wi' again."
Although oats was the principal crop, wheat, barley, pease,
and beans were all grown to a limited extent. Small plots of
flax were likewise cultivated, the portion of ground set apart
for this purpose being called the " hemp rig." When this crop
was ripe, it was tied in sheaves and stocked for a few days. It
was then steeped in one or other of the lint wells, which were
to be found in the parish, and was allowed to remain there until
the "souring" process, as it was called, had proceeded far
enough. The flax was then dried and sent to the mill to be
converted into lint. It may be of interest to mention that Cors-
molloch spring, in the neighbourhood of Moniaive, was long in
favour as a place for the steeping of lint. The nearest lint mill
134 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
appears to have been in Dunscore parish. The lint was after-
wards spun, during the long winter evenings, on the "wee wheel"
at home. Out of the coarser sorts "harn" shirts were made
for the men, while the finer qualities were woven into linen for
napery, an important part of the " plenishing " that every bride
was expected to contribute towards the equipment of her future
home. There are families in the district that still possess speci-
mens of this home-made linen. These they rightly prize, for
the articles are of beautiful design and workmanship, and prove
that the art of home weaving had been brought to a high degree
of perfection. Down to the latter part of the eighteenth century
the manufacture of linen continued to occupy an important posi-
tion amongst the domestic industries, but from that time onward
it steadily declined.
Mention must be made of another class of remains asso-
ciated with agriculture. We refer to the kilns or "killogies,"
which the farmers used for drying their grain before grinding it
into meal. These interesting structures, although by no means
uncommon, so often resemble a natural depression in the ground
that they may easily be overlooked. Well-defined examples
may be seen on the lands of Marwhirn and Crawfordton in
Glencairn, and on the lands of Shillingland in Dunscore, close
to where that parish marches with Glencairn.
Glencairn was prominently identified with another, and, for
a time at least, important branch of agricultural industry,
namely, the droving of cattle to England. A more or less inter-
mittent trade of this kind had apparently existed in the district
from about the middle of the eighteenth century, but it was not
till the century was near a close that the trade reached its
highest development. At that time, according to the estimate
of Sir John Sinclair, about 100,000 head of cattle were sent to
England yearly from Scotland, and of that number we know
that a large proportion — possibly not less than one-sixth — was
INDUSTRIES, PAST AND PRESENT. 135
contributed by the three south-western counties. The trade
was in the main profitable, but it was liable to great vicissitudes.
Messrs Smith of Jarbruck, Glencairn, were its principal local
representatives. When a sufficient number of cattle had been
bought, they were collected into droves to be dispatched, under
the care of a "topsman" on horseback and a number of
assistants on foot, to the English markets. An old villager,
now deceased, remembered seeing a drove that extended from
Jarbruck to Dunscore, a distance of between five and six miles.
Although vehicular traffic at that time was much less common
than it now is, the management of such a large herd must have
been a task of no little difficulty, and the wonder is that losses
from mishap were so few.
DOMESTIC INDUSTRIES.
Among the women and girls of the community muslin em-
broidery or "flowering," as it was called, was largely practised
in Glencairn. The importance of the industry may be gathered
from the fact that "during the first six months of 1853, one
Glasgow house alone paid £90,000 to muslin sewers scattered
over the country."1 Flowering, of course, was much less
exacting, physically, than field labour. Hence, when some
amazon of the harvest rig wanted to show her contempt for a
lagging fellow-worker she was wont to declare, " Hets, ye 're nae
better than a Moniaive floorer." It is of interest to know that
down to little more than forty years ago a .village dame con-
tinued to collect " wabs " of flowering to be transmitted to firms
trading in this class of goods.
Hand knitting was another common occupation of the
people, and it seems to have been engaged in without distinction
of sex or class. A few other industries, most, if not all, of
which are now extinct, were carried on to a limited extent in
1. Great Industries of Great Britain,
136 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
the parish; namely, weaving, coopering, thatching, basket-
making, candle-making, nail-making, and slate quarrying. Of
these, weaving was undoubtedly the most important, a consider-
able number finding employment in weaving the yarns spun in
the households of farmers, tradesmen, and others, into cloth
for the use of their families. Work of this kind was well paid,
and to become a weaver was often the height of a village boy's
ambition. An apprentice on entering upon work had to sign an
"Indenture," and on leaving he received a "Discharge." By
the courtesy of Mr John Crinean, ex-Registrar, we are able to
subjoin a copy of a document of the latter class. This may
serve to illustrate an almost forgotten phase of village life.
DISCHARGE JAMES MUIRHEAD, WEAVER, TO JOHN MUIRHEAD,
WEAVER, 1776.
I, James Muirhead, Weaver in Minihive,
WHEREAS John Muirhead, likewise in Minihive, my Brother,
hath for the space of FOUR years immediately preceding the
term of Lammas last, Conform to Contract and Agreement
made and Entered into by me with him for that Effect, faith-
fully, honestly, and truly, as a Servant and Apprentice, served
me the said James Muirhead in my Art, Trade, and Calling of
Weaver-work; With which Service and Apprenticeship I hereby
hold me well content and satisfied, and renounce all Objections
and exceptions in the contrary ; THEREFORE WIT YE ME the said
James Muirhead to have exonered, quitclaimed and discharged,
As by these presents I exoner, quitclaim and discharge the said
John Muirhead, my Apprentice foresaid, of all Clags and
Claims, Debts and Sums of money in name of 'Prenticefee, or
other prestations whatever, Exigible by me of him by and
through his said Service and Apprenticeship allenarly; And of
all Action and purguit aniwise competent to me for the same.
And I hereby bind and oblige myself to reiterate and renew this
INDUSTRIES, PAST AND PRESENT. 137
present Discharge upon paper duly stamped, if required by him,
and that at his sole Charges and Expenses; Amplifying and
enlarging the same with a Clause Warrandice from me, my
Heirs and Executors, to the said John Muirhead and his Heirs
and Executors, Clause of Registration, and all other Clauses
needful for their further and full security in the premisses.
And in testimony thereof I have subscribed these Presents,
written upon this and the preceeding page by Robert Davidson,
Postmaster at Minihive, this TENTH day of December, One
Thousand seven hundred and seventy-six years, before these
Witnesses, William Wallace, Robert Hunter, and James Max-
well, all Weavers in Minihive.
X JAMES MUIRHEAD.
MODERN AGRICULTURE.
To-day Glencairn is chiefly famous for its sheep-walks.
During the last twenty years there has been a tendency to
replace Cheviot or Whiteface sheep by the Blackface breed,
thus reversing the tendency that Mr Smith says1 was apparent
in 1876. It is possible that the recent advance in the value of
Cheviot wool will act as a check upon any further development
in the same direction, but at the present time we believe that
fully one-half of the sheep stocks in Glencairn are of the Black-
face variety.
The favourite breed of cattle is the Ayrshire. The late
Mr James M'Millan of Woodlea was unceasing in his efforts to
improve and popularise this valuable breed, and to-day there
are few parishes in which the Ayrshire may be seen in greater
perfection. At the annual sales of Ayrshire calving heifers
held at Castle-Douglas, those from Tererran have invariably
taken a prominent place, not seldom heading the list of
averages. In 1909 Mr Barber's queys made a price which for
commercial unpedigreed animals will be hard to beat, namely,
1, Monteith's The Parish of Glencaim, p. 54.
138 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
£17 6s for twenty-four, the ten best making no less than £20
a-piece. Other lots from Crawfordton, Shancastle, Straith,
and Woodlea — all farms in the Glencairn area— realised prices
only very slightly lower. During recent years one of the
principal land-owners of the parish, the Rev. Sir Emilius
Laurie, Bart, of Maxwelton, has turned his attention to the
Ayrshire breed, and he is already known as a leading prize-
winner at the principal district shows. Although the parish has
long been considered most suitable for the Ayrshire, not a few
Galloways have been seen from time to time, diversifying the
landscape with their handsome frames and glossy coats. Mr
Francis N. M. Gourlay founded a herd of Galloways at Two-
merkland in 1898, largely built up by purchases from the famous
stocks of Tarbreoch, Chapelton, Castlemilk, Lochenkit, and
Glasnick. Removing to Craigneston in 1906, he began to
exhibit in 1907, and since then he has come rapidly to the front,
both as a fancier and as an exhibitor of the breed. One of his
animals, " Keystone " by name, was champion at the Highland
and Agricultural Society's show at Aberdeen in 1908, and also
the winner of premier honours for aged bulls at the Royal Agri-
cultural Society of England's show held at Liverpool in 1910.
To Mr Gourlay the parish is also indebted for the introduction
of a beautiful stud of Shetland ponies, with which he has been
a successful exhibitor at leading shows.
For reasons that are difficult to explain dairy-farming has
not been developed to any extent in the parish. One local
agriculturalist, whose opinion is entitled to respect, anticipates
the day when a flourishing butter factory will be established in
Glencairn. As the parish is well adapted to dairying, the idea
is in no way chimerical. The fattening of cattle, and the
breeding and rearing of pigs, receive very little attention.
Although farmyard fowls are generally kept, systematic poultry-
farming is all but unknown. Now that railway facilities for the
INDUSTRIES, PAST AND PRESENT. 139
marketing of produce have been provided, it may reasonably be
expected that the economic value and importance of this last
branch of agricultural industry will become better recognised.
The staple crops of the parish are hay, oats, turnips, and
potatoes. As a rule, hay and oats are no more than average
crops, but on Crawfordton home farm, and one or two other
farms, both oat and hay crops are sometimes raised far in excess
of the average. Turnips and potatoes are generally good.
Modes of Husbandry : —
On arable lands a system of six-year rotation prevails.
The course of cropping is generally as follows : — First year,
Oats after lea ; Second year, Green crop (Turnips or Potatoes) ;
Third year, Oats after green crop ; Fourth year, Ryegrass
(either for hay or for pasture); Fifth and sixth ytars, Pasture.
Generally speaking, the lea corn and the green crop are liberally
manured, and very often farmyard manure or lime is applied
to the young grass.
Leases : —
Leases are commonly for fifteen years, with mutual
breaks at the end of five and ten years. On one large estate in
the parish a system of annual leases has been introduced, but it
is too soon to speak of the results of this departure.
Wages : —
The Rev. William Grierson, when writing his account
of the parish of Glencairn during the closing decade of the
eighteenth century, concluded his references to the economic
conditions of the parish as follows : — " The charge of living, and
the hire of labourers and servants of every denomination con-
tinually increases. A common labourer gets £6 and some £10
in the year besides bed, board, and washing, and 8d, or indeed,
at some employments Is, per day, besides victuals
If things go on as they have done for some years past, such high
140 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
wages will doubtless become more frequent." No one will be
disposed to question the prescience of the writer. To-day un-
married men receive on an average £30 in the year, and women
servants £20 to £22. Although the wages of married men have
not risen to a corresponding extent, there has been material im-
provement in their case also, more especially during the last
fifty years. Shepherds now receive £50 on an average, and
ploughmen £48. The full wage is not always paid in money;
indeed, it is the rule to deduct a proportion for cow's grass and
for certain quantities of meal and potatoes, but this is an
arrangement that appears to be satisfactory to both parties.
Lambing assistants have often to be employed for about four
weeks in the year, and £6 to £7 with board — actually as much
as was paid about the beginning of last century for a whole
year's work — is by no means an unusual wage for this class of
workman. Naturally, this great advance in wages has had an
ameliorative effect upon the condition of the agricultural popula-
tion generally. It may safely be said that the worker of to-day
is better housed, better clothed, and better fed, and that at the
same time he commands opportunities for healthy recreation to
which his fellow-worker of last century was an entire stranger.
CHAPTER XV.— GLENCA1RN DURING THE NINE-
TEENTH CENTURY.
In attempting a short, general survey of the social and
industrial life of the parish during last century, we have to
depend upon stray scraps of local tradition, statements in the
parochial records, occasional references in the works of local
writers, and the meagre details that are to be found in the
Statistical Account of the parish.
That the life of the people during the earlier portion of last
century was simple and homely goes without saying. Luxury,
as we now understand it, was almost unknown. The dwellings
of the common people were built of stone and turf covered with
thatch, and generally consisted of a single compartment. The
windows were small. Owing no doubt to the window tax,
which was imposed in 1695 and remained in force until 1851,
they were not infrequently stuffed with straw or" fern instead of
being filled with glass. Floors were usually earthen, only the
passages being paved. Opposite the door of every dwelling,
and rarely more than a few feet away, stood the " kitchen -
midden," a mal-odorous heap of animal offal and general
household refuse. The mode of living was in keeping with the
houses. The principal furnishings consisted of a box-bed or
two, a table, some stools, and a few wooden cogs and bickers.
DRESS.
The poor dressed very meanly. The almost universal
dress of middle-class gentlemen was " hodden -grey," that is,
home-made grey, a cloth woven out of a mixture of black and
white wool in its natural state. It was no unusual thing for a
laird and the different members of his family to get only a single
142 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
outfit in the year. New suits for the men and new gowns for
the women would be provided about the "preaching time," as
the annual Communion season was called, and these had to
serve as " keepin' " suits or dresses, as the case might be, until
that time twelvemonth, when they were supplanted in their
position of honour and henceforth subjected to the tear and
wear of ordinary work-a-day life. For head-gear the men wore
flat cloth bonnets, often of home manufacture, and the women
linen " toys " or mutches. We are told that towards the middle
of last century an ambition sprung up amongst the farmers'
wives and others of humbler station in life to possess " Leg-
horns." Hats or bonnets of this famous straw were expensive,
however, and the ambition was often difficult of attainment.
Once procured, the " Leghorn " became a treasured possession.
It was altered year after year, and after each occasion on which
it had been worn the loops and bows of ribbon with which it
was adorned were carefully arranged, and pieces of paper in-
serted to keep them, if possible, in all their pristine freshness.
This practice led to the discomfiture of one prideful dame, who,
hurrying to get ready for church one morning, forgot all about
the paper insets in her bonnet, and it was only when the titters
of an amused congregation broke upon her ears that she realised
the figure she cut. During summer the children and not a few
of their elders went bare-headed, and not infrequently bare-
footed as well, to kirk and to market. The no-hat cult is
therefore no new thing. Tailors and dressmakers did the most
of their work in the homes of their customers, a dressmaker's
usual wage being Is per day with food, and a tailor's, Is 6d.
FOOD, LIGHT, AND FUEL.
Porridge and potatoes were the staple food of the people.
Home-brewed ale, commonly called " tippenny " — the price of
the ale being twopence per Scots pint — was the favourite drink.
GLENCAIRN DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 143
It was a very harmless beverage despite the eulogium passed
upon it by Burns,
" Wi' tippenny we fear nae evil."
Light was supplied partly by tallow candles of home manu-
facture, stuck in what was called "a carle" candlestick, and
partly by oil burned in a cruisie made of iron or tin. Both the
" carle ' ' candlestick and the cruisie have now passed into the
category of museum curiosities. Down to the close of the
eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth century peat was
the universal fuel. No great difficulty was experienced by the
farmers and cottagers residing in the more hilly portions of the
parish in obtaining supplies of this useful combustible. The
villagers of Moniaive, however, were under the necessity of
resorting to the Fell and Craigmuie moors, some six or seven
miles away. This entailed an extra outlay of Is 9d to 2s 6d per
load for cartage. The usual charge for cutting peats was Is 9d
for four cart loads, known as the half "dark." (Darg, dark —
a certain quantity of work. — Vide Jamieson).
As peat-cutting continues to play an important, although a
'decreasing, part in the social economy of the district, a short
description of the process of preparing the fuel may not
be out of place. Two methods of peat-cutting are practised,
one in a perpendicular, the other in a horizontal direction.
In Glencairn the perpendicular method is favoured. As
the peats are cut they are thrown into a barrow to be conveyed
to the place where they are to be spread to dry. This drying
process may take a week or longer according to the weather.
The peats are afterwards " fitted," that is, set up in cone-shaped
stacks of four or more peats to a "fitting." They remain in
this position perhaps two weeks or more until firm and hard.
They are then "turn-fitted," which is simply a repetition of the
process of fitting on an extended scale. The peats are now in
small stacks or clumps, and no further attention is required,
144 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
beyond rebuilding the stacks where necessary, until the fuel is
in a fit condition to cart home.
To the lads and lasses of a former generation the work of
the peat field would seem to have been highly attractive. Nor
is this to be marvelled at when we think of the opportunities
for innocent enjoyment that this form of labour afforded.
With the mirth and daffin by the way, the cheerful banter
during the mid-day meal of sow'ens or sweet-milk porridge, the
stolen moments of relaxation amid fragrant reaches of bog-
myrtle and heath, is it surprising that young men and maidens
should have found there more than an antidote for the laborious
hours of rustic toil ?
CUSTOMS AND BELIEFS.
Comparatively little time appears to have been found for
amusements. Cards and draughts were almost the only indoor
games, and as cards were banned in many homes, it was often
draughts or nothing. Neighbourly visits were frequent, how-
ever, and with song, riddle, and story, supplemented sometimes
with a dance, there was little room for irksomeness. Festival
days and seasons, such as Hallowe'en and Hogmanay, afforded
special opportunities of enjoyment, and seem to have been
seized upon with avidity by the people. Burns 's description
may be accepted as typical of such gatherings : —
" On Fasten-e'en we had a rockin',
To ca' the crack and weave our stockin' ;
And there was muckle fun and jokin',
Ye need na doubt ;
At length we had a hearty yokin'
At sang about."
— Epistle to John Lapraik.
Superstition was widespread. Many houses, woods, and
bridges in the parish were supposed to be haunted, and very
GLENCAIRN DURING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. 145
few cared to pass such places alone after nightfall. A belief
in witches, fairies, and malevolent spirits of various kinds was
almost universal. Hence the use of charms and amulets. A
renowned witch — " Glencairn Kate" by name — figures in
Robert Kerr's famous witch poem, "Maggy o' the Moss."1
She was one of four carlins who distinguished themselves on the
night of the witches' ride through the air on broomsticks to
attend the devil's levee. Strange customs were observed at
births, marriages, and funerals : thus, no birth was complete
without its " blythe-meat " or birth-feast; no marriage without
its "riding for the broose," a race, generally on horseback, in
which the victor was rewarded with a bottle of whisky ;2 and no
funeral without its dole of bread and cheese or whisky.
Side by side with much that seems rude in the life of our
forefathers there is not a little that calls for commendation.
In the home, for example, a simple and earnest piety prevailed.
Probity was rarely absent from business transactions, and it
may be questioned whether even a more kindly feeling did not
permeate the social relationships. Many of the maxims of our
forefathers still linger in the district, and they discover to us a
people shrewd, self-reliant, and withal God-fearing. We close
our chapter with a sheaf of proverbs, very few of which have
been gleaned either for Henderson's or for Hislop's well-known
collection. So far as appears, indeed, some of them are
native to the soil.
PROVERBS, ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED.
A famine aye begins at the peat stack.
A gaun fit aye gets.
A man ridin' for his life will never notice it.
1. Nicholson's Historical and Traditional Tales, 1843.
2. Originally the prize was a bowl of brose or spice broth, hence the name
broose or brose.
146 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
As mim as a May paddock.
A thochtless held gies the feet muckle to dae.
Bend the willow when it's green
Between the age of three and thirteen.
Bonnie folk and ragged folk are aye bein' catched at.
Doctors and ministers are ill1 craws to shoot at.
Folk that'll do nocht but speer should never be tald ony-
thing.
Hair by hair makes the carle's held bare.
I may rin in rags but I'll no' rin in debt.
It's no' the rummilin' cairt that coups first.
Jist cool in the water ye het in.
Mony han's make speedy wark.
Mair strict than strecht.
Oweragain's no' forbidden.
Rinnin' parents make lazy weans.
Sap bodes luck.
Shoon soles never make good uppers.
The deil's bairns hae aye their daddy's luck.
The last meenit's aye the hardest ca't.2
Them that burns you for a fule wastes their firin'.
There's never a heich but there's a ho we.
There's muckle to do when muirmen ride,
There's buits and spurs and a' to provide.
There's nocht like the auld hounds for the lang hunt.
There's far mae marrit than keep gude hoos.
They're aye welcome that bring.
1. Unlucky. Another form has " kittle craws." 2. Driven.
147
Walth gars folk waver.
Writings are only for rogues.
Ye'd better hae a sairy1 saut-fat2 than a giesen'd3 girnal.4
Ye may hang yer meal -poke to the door,
But Providence winna fill't afore mornin'.
Ye're like the ill plack, ye'll come back.
1. Sorry or poor. 2. Saltbox. 3. Shrunk and gaping through drynesa.
4. Meal ark or chest.
"CARLE" CANDLESTICK, 19th CENTURY.
CHAPTER XVI.— MONIAIVE.
Moniaive, the principal village of the parish, is situated on
the Dalwhat and Craigdarroch tributaries of the river Cairn. It
is three hundred and fifty feet above sea-level, and has a popu-
lation of between five and six hundred. The valley of the
Cairn approaches this point with a wide and graceful sweep,
and here the village nestles pleasantly in the lap of the green
hills where they open their friendly arms to welcome the traveller
into Galloway. Nature and art vie with each other in the
attractions of the place. Minnyhive — to use its former musical
name — has to be viewed from many standpoints if its varied
aspects of beauty are to meet with just appreciation. It has,
indeed, been sometimes described as one of the prettiest villages
in Scotland. Any who view it from Dunreggan Hill on the
north, from the neighbourhood of Blackstone or Ingleston on
the south, from the boulder-strewn height of Bankhead Craigs on
the east, or from the Golf course on the west, not to mention
other points, will find ample reason for endorsing this opinion.
Various suggestions have been offered as to the origin of
the name. The prefix many or minnie is almost certainly either
monadh, " a moor, a hill," or moine, " a moss," but the suffix is
much more difficult. The Rev. James B. Johnston, B.D., author
of The Place Names of Scotland, thinks that the name is derived
from moine ghabaidh, which signifies "dangerous moss;" while
James A. Robertson, F.S.A.,Scot., in his Gaelic Topography of
Scotland favours monadh-abh, " the hill of the water or stream."
With reference to the former of these derivations, it is not easy
at the first glance to find much resemblance between ghabaidh
and the terminal syllable in Moniaive. But this difficulty is
greatly minimised, if indeed it be not altogether removed, when
it is explained that, by well-known laws of aspiration, the g gets
MONIAIVE. 149
lost altogether, the b becomes bh or v, and the final dh is mute.
We are disposed, however, to favour Robertson's etymology for
the reason that it goes straight to what must be regarded as the
outstanding physical feature of the locality, namely, its attract-
ive combination of hill and stream. This feature, as we have
already seen, inspired the muse of a recent poet, and we venture
to think it would be no less likely to catch the imagination of
our impressionable Celtic forefathers.
At what period Moniaive came into existence as a village
we have no means of knowing. Possibly a settlement was
planted here in very early times. In the summer of 1904 an
anvil stone, much marked by use, was dug up about half-a-mile
to the east of Moniaive, and as recently as last year a perforated
stone hammer was found within the precincts of the village
itself. The presence of these relics goes far to prove that here,
long before the Roman invasion, a primitive people lived, and
fashioned their rude implements of war.
In the sixteenth century — the fourth day of January, 1560,
to be exact — we find "the brig of Mony yfe in Glencarne," re-
ferred to as a place of assignation.1 The existence of a bridge in
1560 is interesting, and seems to warrant the conclusion that
even at this early period Moniaive was a place of some import-
ance. Our earliest authentic information, however, in regard
to Moniaive as a village, is derived from a Charter granted in
the reign of Charles I., erecting "The town and lands of
Monyeve into a free burgh of barony," in favour of William,
Earl of Dumfries, a member of the Crichton family, who at that
time possessed considerable lands in Glencairn. By the
courtesy of the officials, Register House, Edinburgh — and
especially of Dr J. Maitland Thomson, Curator, Historical
Department — we are able to append a copy and translation of
this interesting document: —
1. Burrow Cort Euik (of Drumfress).
150 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
REGISTRUM MAGNI SIGILLI. Lib. 55. No. 215.
CARTA WILLIELMI COMITIS DE DRUMFREIS erectionis ville et
terrarum de Monyeyve in liberum burgum baronie, etc.
CAROLUS Dei gratia magne Britannie Francie et Hibernie Rex
fideique defensor OMNIBUS probis hominibus totius terre sue
clericis et laicis salutem SCIATIS quia villa et terre de Monyeve
cum pertinentiis ad predilectum nostrum consanguineum et con-
siliarium Willielmum Comitem de Drumfreis Vicecomitem de
Air Dominum Crichtoun de Sanquhair hereditarie et pertinentes
tanquam propria pars et pertinens sue baronie de Glencairnie
jacentis infra vicecomitatum nostrum de Drumfreis per ipsum
de nobis immediate tentis ab omnibus nostris burgis regalibus
et burgis baronie per spatium duodecem miliarum ad minimum
ex omni parte distant IGITUR proque meliore asiamento legiorum
qui in ea parte dicti regni nostri habitant aliorumque com-
meantium et frequentantium ibidem ac pro meliore accommoda-
tione ipsorum tarn in suis itineribus quam aliis eorum legitimis
negotiationibus proque meliore incremento politic ac pro multi-
plicibus bonis servitiis nobis nostroque quondam charissimo
patri dignissime memorie per prefatum predilectum nostrum
consanguineum et consiliarium Willielmum Comitem de Drum-
freis turn in privatis turn in publicis nostris negotiis dicti regni
nostri sibi commissis prestitis et impensis Ac pro diversis aliis
bonis causis et considerationibus nos moventibus cum avisamento
et consensu predilecti nostri consanguinei et consiliarii Joannis
Comitis de Traquair Domini Lintoun et Caberstoun supremi
nostri Thesaurarii Computorum nostrorum rotulatoris collectoris
novarumque nostrarum augmentationum Thesaurarii dicti regni
nostri Scotie ac reliquorum Dominorum nostri Scaccarii
dicti regni nostri Scotie nostrorum Commissionariorum,
fecimus constituimus ereximus et creavimus tenoreque presentis
carte nostre facimus constituimus creamus et erigimus
dictas villam et terras de Monyeve cum integris domibus edificiis
MONIAIVE. 151
hortis pomariis lie outsettis partibus pendiculis et pertinentiis
earundem. IN UNUM LIBERUM BURGUM baronie prefato predilecto
nostro consanguineo et consiliario Willielmo Comiti de Drumfreis
heredibus et successoribus suis in dicta baronia de Glencairnie
nunc et omni tempore affuturo Burgum Baronie de MONYEVE
nuncupandum cum plenaria potestate libertate et licentia prefato
predilecto nostro consanguineo et consiliario Willielmo Comiti
de Drumfreis heredibus et successoribus suis antedictis ballivos
burgenses officiarios serjandos aliosque officiarios quoscunque
requisites infra dictum burgum nostrum pro regimine et guber-
natione ejusdem faciendi eligendi oonstituendi et creandi ac
dictos ballivos aliosque officiarios prout ipsis videbitur expediens
eligendi mutandi et retinendi Cum plenaria potestate dictis bur-
gensibus dicti burgi nostri perpetuo omni tempore futuro faciendi
utendi et exercendi integra privilegia libertates aliaque que
aliquis alius liber burgus baronie infra dictum regnum nostrum
ad libertatem alicujus liberi burgi baronie spectantia de jure
fecerint seu facere poterint ac infra dictum burgum erigendi
habendi et tenendi crucem foralem et pretorium et forum hep-
domodarium die Martis et duas annuas liberas nundinas utranique
earundem pro spatio trium dierum duraturam earundem unam
decimo sexto die mensis Junii. incipientem et lie Midsumar fair
nuncupandam ac alteram earundem ultimo die mensis Septembris
incipiendam et lie Michaelmes fair nuncupandam Ac integras
tollonias custumas et casualitates dicti burgi baronie fororum
hepdomodariorum et liberarum nundinarum ejusdem petendi
recipiendi intromittendi et percipiendi ac ad ipsorum usus
applicandi cum speciali privilegio et libertate prefato predilecto
nostro consanguineo et consiliario Willielmo Comiti de Drum-
freis suisque antedictis resignationes omnium terrarum tenemen-
torum annuorum reddituum aliorumque infra dictum burgum
existentium recipiendi ac eadem quibuscunque persone vel per-
sonis in quorum favores resignate fuerunt dandi et disponendi
152 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
cum omnibus infeofamentis cartis sasinis aliisque evidentiis
necessariis curias burgales infra dictum burgum et libertatem
ejusdem inchoandi affigendi affirmandi tenendi et continuandi
toties quoties opus fuerit clericos serjandos adjudicatores aliaque
membra et officiarios dictarum curiarum necessarios creandi
locandi imponendi et deponendi ad ipsorum libetum transgres-
sores secundum leges dicti regni nostri puniendi escaetis lie
unlavvis et amerciamenta dictarum curiarum percipiendi et
recipiendi ac ad ipsorum usus applicandi ac si opus fuerit pro
eisdem namandi et distringendi ac generaliter cum potestate
prefato predilecto nostro consanguineo et consiliario Willielmo
Comiti de Drumfreis suisque antedictis dictum burgum fora
hepdomodaria et liberas nundinas ejusdem ac omnia privilegia
et libertates ad burgum baronie spectantia et pertinentia simili-
ter adeoque libere quam aliqui alii burgi baronie fecerunt aut
facere legitime potuerunt sen poterint aliquo tempore affuturo
gandendi fruendi et exercendi. IN cujus REI testimonium huic
presenti carte nostre magnum sigillum nostrum apponi precepi-
mus TESTIBUS ut in aliis cartis consimelis date precedentibus
Apud Edinburgum quarto die mensis Julii anno Domini mil-
lesimo sex centesimo trigesimo sexto Et anno regni nostri duo
decimo.
TRANSLATION.
REGISTER OF THE GREAT SEAL. Vol. 55. No. 215.
Charter of William Earl of Dumfries for the erection of
the town and lands of Monyeyve into a free burgh of
Barony.
Charles by the grace of God King of Great Britain
France and Ireland Defender .of the Faith, to all good men
of his whole realm cleric and laic greeting. Know ye that
whereas the town and lands of Monyeve with their pertinents
and heritably belonging to our well-beloved cousin and coun-
cillor William, Earl of Dumfries, Viscount of Ayr, Lord
MONIAIVE. 153
Crichton of Sanquhar as a proper part and pertinent of his
barony of Glencairnie lying within our sheriffdom of Dumfries
and held by him immediately of us are distant from all our
royal burghs and burghs of barony round about for the space of
at least twelve miles we therefore for the greater advantage
of the lieges who dwell in that part of our kingdom and others
having intercourse and frequenting there as also for the better
accommodation of these persons both in their journeys and in
their other lawful business and the increase of polity and for
the manifold good services done, rendered and paid to us and
our late dearest father of most worthy memory by our foresaid
well-beloved cousin and councillor William Earl of Dumfries
as well in our private affairs as in the public business of our
said kingdom entrusted to him, and for divers other good causes
and considerations moving us thereto have with advice and
consent of our well-beloved cousin and councillor John, Earl
of Traquair, Lord Lintoun and Caverstoun Lord High Trea-
surer, Collector of our Accounts and Treasurer of our new
augmentations of our said kingdom of Scotland, and the
remanent Lords of our Exchequer of our said kingdom of Scot-
land our Commissioners made constituted erected and
created as by the tenor of this our present charter we do
make constitute erect and create the said town and lands of
Monyeve with the whole houses buildings gardens orchards
outsets parts pendicles and pertinents thereof into one free
burgh of barony in favour of our foresaid well-beloved cousin
and councillor William, Earl of Dumfries, and his heirs and
successors in the said barony of Glencairnie now and in all time
to come to be called the Burgh Barony of Moneyeve, with full
power liberty and license to our foresaid well-beloved cousin
and councillor William Earl of Dumfries and his heirs and
successors aforesaid to make elect appoint and create bailies
burgesses officers sergeants and whatsoever other officers shall
154 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
be required within our said burgh for the regulating and govern-
ing thereof and as may seem expedient to them to choose
change and continue the said bailies and other officers with
full power to the said burgesses of our said burgh perpetually
in all time coming to practise use and exercise the whole privi-
leges liberties and others which any other free burgh of barony
enjoys or can enjoy and of right belonging to the liberty of such
free burgh of barony and to set up have and maintain in the
said burgh a market cross and tolbooth with a weekly market
on Tuesday and two annual free fairs each continuing for the
space of three days the one beginning on the sixteenth day of
June and to be called Midsummer Fair and the other beginning
on the last day of September and to be called Michaelmas Fair
and to ask receive intromit with and uplift the whole tolls
customs and casualties of the said burgh of barony weekly
markets and free fairs thereof and to apply the same to their
own uses, with special privilege and liberty to our foresaid
well-beloved cousin and councillor William Earl of Dumfries
and his foresaids to receive resignations of all lands tenements
annual rents and others being within the said burgh and to
grant and dispone the same to such person or persons in whose
favour they were resigned with all infeftments charters sasines
and other evidents necessary and to inaugurate affix affirm
hold and continue burgh courts within the said burgh and
liberty thereof, as often as these shall be required, appointing
setting placing and displacing the clerks Serjeants judges
and other necessary officers and members of the said courts at
their pleasure, punishing transgressors according to the laws of
our said kingdom, uplifting and receiving the escheats fines
and amerciaments of the said courts and applying the same to
their own purposes and if need be poinding and distraining
therefore, and generally with power to our foresaid well-beloved
cousin and councillor William, Earl of Dumfries and his fore-
MONIAIVE. 156
saids to use and enjoy the said burgh, weekly markets and free
fairs thereof and to exercise all the privileges and freedoms
belonging and proper to a burgh of barony in the same way and
as freely as any other burghs of barony have done do or law-
fully can or shall do at any time hereafter — IN WITNESS WHEREOF
to this our present charter we have commanded our great
seal to be appended (Witnesses as in other preceding Charters
of the like date) At Edinburgh the fourth day of July in
the year of our Lord one thousand six hundred and thirty-six
and of our reign the twelfth year.
The erection of Moniaive into a burgh does not seem to
have had any material effect upon the fortunes of the village.
Certain it is that the "privileges " and " liberties " conferred by
the charter were soon allowed to fall into disuse. A reverse in
fortune which the Crichton family sustained about this time may
have had something to do with this untoward result, but as no
local records dealing with civil affairs are available, it is difficult
to obtain reliable information. Happily, the Public Records
are not wholly silent concerning the affairs of the little burgh,
and the following reference, gleaned from the Register of the
Privy Council of Scotland, will no doubt be read with interest :—
" At a court held in Edinr. there was produced a presenta-
tion under quarter seal dated Edinburgh, 25th July, 1636,
directed to Wm. Fergusone of Craigdarroch, Superior of Cald-
side and Craignee, for infefting Jas. Crichtoun in said lands
(C and C) as falling in his Majesty's hands by the forfeiture of
said deceased Andrew Roresone for the theft foresaid with
Charter of infeftment granted at Monyeive, 20th Jany., 1637, by
said Wm. Fergusone to said Jas. Crichtoun, who was the son of
the Earl of Dumfries and bailie of the Barony of Glencarne.
He had entered Caldside and spoiled or took away her (Mrs
Roresone's) whole goods and the writs and evidents of the said
156 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
lands and placed himself in possession, compelling the tenants
to pay the duties thereof to him and caused Mrs Roresone's son
to be apprehended at a court of which he was bailie and con-
demned him to be hanged as a sheep -stealer, but his sentence
was altered to banishment to the wars. The case was tried on
3 Mch., 1642, against Jas. Crichtoun, who was ordered to
remove from Caldside and Craignee before 29 May, 1642." In
those days no nice scruples were shown by the rich and power-
ful, especially in their dealings with inferiors, and it is gratifying
to find that on this occasion the arm of the law was long enough
to reach the spoiler and oppressor of the widow, even although
he belonged to the masterful race of the Crichtons.
MONIAIVE IN 1790.
It is from a water-colour sketch of "Moneyeve," dated
1790, now in the possession of Mr William Macmath, Edin-
burgh, and here reproduced by the kind permission of the owner,
that we obtain our next glimpse of Moniaive. In this picture
the village wears an extremely homely aspect. The houses
are low, thatch-roofed structures, and there is little in the
appearance of the principal street that is suggestive of growth
or even of vitality. Mr Macmath, founding on the date and on
the handwriting, is disposed to believe that the picture is the
work of Grose, the antiquary. There are other circumstances
that go to establish the truth of this conjecture, and its value
as a faithful representation of the village towards the close of
the eighteenth century is therefore considerable. The Cross, it
will be observed, rests on a square base. Although no record
of a change from a square to a circular base has come down to
us, it seems probable that the Cross has undergone several
structural changes. In the artless narrative given by the young
son of the Rev. John Blackader when describing his own and
his father's escape from Turner's dragoons, he tells how " a
party of sodjers came from Galloway to Bardennoch about two
3
MONIAIVE. 157
o'clock in the morning," and how he fled with all the little
speed he had to the Brigend of Minnihyvie, where, finding all
the people asleep, he "mounted to the uppermost step of the
cross of the toune, and, half-naked as he was, slept there till
morning." The mention of " the uppermost step of the cross "
implies the existence of a flight of steps, and as steps are usual
in such structures, we think there are strong presumptive grounds
for believing that they originally formed a part of the Cross of
Moniaive. The village " Jougs," (from jugum, a yoke), which
were long attached to the base of the Cross, were removed
during structural alterations in 1812. A stone dial, which
originally surmounted the hexagonal shaft, has unfortunately
disappeared. The stone ball now in that position is an
addition of recent date, which might with advantage be
removed. The last thatched roof in the village disappeared in
1899. A house typical of the period of the Macmath picture
lingered in North Street until about the same date. The roof
was thatched with straw, and the couples and rafters were made
of oak branches trimmed with the axe. The walls were low and
the windows small, while the floors were paved with cobble-
stones. The house was inspected with interest by members of
the Dumfriesshire and Galloway Natural History and Anti-
quarian Society in 1890.
The changes that have taken place in the spelling of the
name Moniaive present a curious study. Two forms, as we have
seen, are used in the Charter — " Monyeyve " in the title and
" Monyeve ' ' in the text — but this is trifling compared with
the liberties that have been taken with the name elsewhere: —
Mony yfe (Burrow Cort Buik of Drumfress, 1560) ; Moniaive
(Black MS., 1647-84, Sibbald Collection; Town and County
Almanack, 1799; Minutes Glencairn Library, 1823); Minijve
(Rae MS., circa 1710); Miniaive (Kirk-Session Records, 1711);
Moneaive (Edinburgh Almanack, 1763); Minnihive (Associate
Congregation Church Token, 1779; Pictures of Scottish Scenes
158 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
and Character, 1830); Minihive (Church Treasurer's Book,
1789); Monihive (Church Treasurer's Book, 1789); Moneyeve
(Water -Colour Drawing, 1790) ; Minniehive (Kirk-Session
Records, 1791); Minyhive (Kirk-Session Records, 1792);
Monniehive (Singer's Agricultural Survey of Dumfriesshire,
1812); Moneyheive (Legal Document, 1823); Minnyhyvie (Life
of Blackader} ; Monyaive (Sketches of the Covenanters} ; Minni-
aive (M'Ker lie's Lands and their Owners} ; Mininaive, Money-
hive, Minnyive, Minnieaive, Minnyhive (Kirk-Session Records,
various dates). An impression seems to prevail that the
" Moniaive " form of the name is a recent coinage, but this
is not the case. It was in use, as we have seen, between 1647
and 1684, and it continued to contend for supremacy, especially
with the forms " Monyhive " and "Minnyhive," down to 1856,
when it was adopted by the Ordnance Survey on the authority
of his Grace the Duke of Buccleuch and others.1 The spelling
" Moniaive ' ' has likewise been adopted by the Post Office and
the Railways, and it may therefore be regarded as firmly
established.
It is curious that none of the early street names have
survived. The "Causey," the "Throughgate," the "Mill
Raw," the "Beggar Raw," the "Cow Raw," have all dis-
appeared, and in their stead we have such commonplace
designations as High Street, Chapel Street, Ayr Street, and
North Street. Of Dunreggan, the new name for the Cow Raw,
we say nothing, for it is an old village name and deserves to
live. In addition to these names of what may be called prin-
cipal thoroughfares, there were distinctive names for a few side
streets, namely, the "Kettle Entry," the "Stenters," and the
" Scleners." Let us glance a little more particularly at each of
these streets.
1. THE CAUSEY or CAUSEWAY (now High Street). — The
1. Letter from the Director- General of the Ordnance Survey.
MONIAIVE. 159
name takes us back to a time when the street was paved with
cobble-stones throughout its entire length. A small portion of
the original pavement remained in the neighbourhood of the
Cross down to 1896, when the stones were removed to help in
relaying the water-channels of the village. It was in this street
that the village fairs in the months of June and Septem-
ber were held. From the bridge across the Dalwhat stream
westward booths and stalls were erected, and in these a miscel-
laneous collection of wares was displayed to tempt the lieges.
Latterly the fairs were held in a field to the east of the Free
Church — commonly known as the " Lamb Fair Park ' ' — and we
can recall the keen interest with which old as well as young
looked forward to those recurring village festivals. Owing
largely to the auction marts of modern days they gradually
dwindled, and finally disappeared about thirty years ago.
2. THE THROUGHGATE (now Chapel Street). — At one time
the incline near the northern end of Chapel Street was much
greater than it is now, and as vehicular traffic became more
common, steps were taken to level the street. In carrying out
the improvement certain of the houses had to be " underfitted."
Steps had likewise to be put down opposite the doorways.
These changes may still be seen in the Bakery opposite the
Union Bank and in one or two more of the houses in the same
neighbourhood.
3. MILL RAW (now Ayr Street). — The name "Mill Raw "
was no doubt derived from Craigdarroch Mill, which is situated
in this street. " Ratton Raw " — a name of more restricted use
—may have been derived from the same source. The street
seems to have been renamed Ayr Street about the time the
new line of turnpike to Ayr was opened.
4. BEGGAR RAW (now North Street). — The new name ex-
plains itself. If the same is to be said of the old one, the street
must have changed greatly for the better, for it is now one of
160 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
the cleanest and tidiest in the village. In the Ordnance Survey
Map of 1856 the street appears as " Cairnside Row," but if this
name was ever formally adopted it cannot have been received
with approval, for it is now unknown.
5. Cow RAW OR COWGATE (now Dunreggan). — The cows
owned by the villagers were no doubt pastured on the common
lands belonging to the village, hence the name "Cow Raw."
Although Dunreggan is now incorporated with Moniaive, it long
ranked as a separate village, and it is described as such in all
the older Gazetteers. The two villages were not only distinct,
they were even bitter rivals, and it was scarcely safe for a boy
on either side to cross the bridge. In Moniaive, contempt of
the " Dunregganites " found expression in a distich that was
long familiar in the village : —
" Dunreggan baggage, they're no' worth a cabbage,
They're no' worth a pint o' powder."
That the contempt was reciprocated goes without saying, but in
what terms members of the Dunreggan clan expressed their
feelings tradition fails to say.
6. THE SCLENERS OR SCHLENDERS. — A name applied to the
roadway running past Broomfield in the direction of James
Renwick's birthplace. It is said that a line of houses once stood
here. The name " Scleners " means " shingle on the face of a
cliff," and was no doubt descriptive of the place at the time it
was bestowed.
7. THE KETTLE ENTRY. — Name given to a short row of
houses with gables to the street, which stood near Hastings
Hall. The origin and the meaning of the name are unknown.
8. THE STENTERS. — An old street name, which has now
been supplanted by the name "Grains Road." The houses
stood near the Waulk Mill, with its row of " stenters " for
stretching the cloth, hence the name.
At one time both a Race Course and a Common belonged
MONIAIVE. 161
to Moniaive. The former is preserved in the road name, " The
Course," which, as we think, must have ended on the ground
to the east of Dunreggan, described by Wodrow as " the Race-
muir."1 The Common, however, we grieve to say, is no more
than a memory. When or how the inhabitants lost their
Common we have been unable to discover, but we fear that
appropriation by the superiors of the soil has been too long
condoned for their rights to be called in question.
BRIDGES AND ROADWAYS.
To a village like Moniaive, situated as it is between two
waters, bridges must always have been of supreme importance.
We have seen that a bridge existed as early as 1560, and in the
subsequent history of the village references to its bridges are of
frequent occurrence. About the middle of the seventeenth
century Mr Fergusson of Craigdarroch — who owned the greater
part of the lands in the neighbourhood — built a bridge
over the Dalwhat stream, and on 3rd August, 1661, he
obtained an Act of Parliament empowering him to levy pontage
dues. Fifty-five years later, as the historian Rae tells us,
" Alexander Fergusson of Craigdarroch at his own charge caus'd
put on a Stone Bridge of two Arches over Dalwhat Water, at
his Burgh of Minijve ; And a bridge of one Arch was put on by
the Shire, over Craigdarroch Water, on the other side of
Minijve, both upon the post Road from Edinburgh, by New-
Galloway to Wigton."2 The bridge of two arches has long since
disappeared, and in its place we have a plain but serviceable
bridge of one arch.
The changes in the roadways, like the changes in the
bridges, present many features of interest. Down to near the
close of the eighteenth century the present Ayr road did not
extend much beyond the mansion-house of Craigdarroch, while
1. Sufferings^ ol. IV. p. 242.
2. Rae MS.
162 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
the road up the Dalwhat glen, on the opposite side of the hill,
ended at Caitloch. Again, the Craigdarroch road ran much
higher up the hillside than it does now, while the Dalwhat or
Caitloch road kept more to the south by Broomfield and the
Scleners. The old Castlefairn road, after crossing the Craig-
darroch stream near Nethertack, ran in the direction of Kirk-
cudbright farmhouse, past the ash trees that mark the site
of the first Secession Church. Keeping along the side of
the hill for some distance, Glencrosh burn was crossed close
to the point where it now joins Castlefairn stream. The road-
way afterwards followed the higher ground to the right until the
Scroggs hill was reached. One arm probably trended thence
by way of Kilnhouse and Auchencheyne, while another ran past
Lochrennie Mote in the direction of Lochrennie and Holmhead.
Roads, or, strictly speaking, tracks communicating with Niths-
dale were numerous. Northward there was the track by way of
Bardennoch; more to the east there' was one in the direction
of Tynron; a third traversed the Cloan pass; and a fourth
crossed the ridge above Straith. By all these a considerable
packhorse traffic was at one time maintained, but as the use of
wheeled vehicles increased, good roads became a necessity, and
the hill tracks were gradually abandoned.
Communication with the outside world was greatly facili-
tated when, in 1833, the " Craigengillan Coach " began to ply
between Dumfries and Glasgow. Moniaive was one of the
stages on the route, and the arrival and departure of the coach
were events of no little interest and importance to the villagers.
The places of call, according to Halliday's Dumfries and South
of Scotland Almanac for 1835, were as follows: "Craigengillan
Coach, for Glasgow, leaves here (Dumfries) every Monday,
Wednesday, and Friday morning, at £ before 6, by Minnyhive,
Carsfearn, Dalmillington, Ayr, Kilmarnock. Arrives at the
Tontine, Glasgow, at £ past 7. Returns, leaving Glasgow every
MONIAIVE. 163
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning at 7 o'clock.
Arrives in Dumfries at 8, night."
The stage-coach proper did not long survive the coming
of the railway ; and when the " Craigengillan ' ' ceased to run,
Moniaive was in a worse position than ever. In 1865, however,
a few gentlemen with commendable public spirit formed what
was called the Moniaive Omnibus Company, and a 'bus began
to ply twice daily between Moniaive and Thornhill station on
the Glasgow and South-Western Railway system. Although
several changes in ownership occurred, this convenient service
was continued down to 1905, when it was abandoned soon after
the opening of the Cairn Valley Railway. A bi-weekly service
to Dumfries by way of Dunscore was discontinued about the
same time. A motor-bus service to Thornhill was tried, but
as it proved unprofitable it was soon given up.
NOTABLE VISITORS.
Notwithstanding the isolated position of Moniaive, visits
from persons of note, even in pre-coaching days, were by no
means infrequent. Lord Cockburn spent part of an autumn
afternoon here in 1839, and his impressions, as recorded in his
Diary under date 30th September, form interesting reading: —
" Next to Kenmure we were delighted with what a geologist
would call the basin of Minnyhive. It is a wretched, half -dead
village which should either be regenerated into a clean, nice,
thriving country town, or be altogether superseded by a great
mansion; because its position at the confluence of several pas-
toral valleys is extremely beautiful, and the district is distin-
guished by everything pleasing in the half -natural and half- culti-
vated scenery of the Scottish straths. All the low grounds and
much of the hills were gleaming with bright corn and grass; a
great deal of wood is tossed richly everywhere, the surface is
full of knolls, some of them very regular and plainly shaped by
water ; comfortable embowered houses are perched on heights ;
164 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
the river sweeps in a full flow of liquid crystal, and there is a
prevailing air of industry. I walked, or rather lingered, here
for about an hour, and never was more charmed. To be sure,
I saw it all under the magic of the sweetest sunshine that ever
blessed the close of a calm autumnal day. But, with its
elements, that scene can never be but beautiful. We lost the
glow of the happy valley as we got into the narrow defile, but
the wood and the stream joined us again about two miles from
Penpont, and as I looked back from the bridge over the Nith,
close by Thornhill, I saw a day incapable of being made better
ended by a magnificent, gorgeous sunset, and did not bid the last
day of September adieu till ' the gradual dusky veil ' had fallen
over all nature."
Another legal luminary, namely, Lord Brougham, once
attended a public dinner at Moniaive in the company of his
friend, Mr Fergusson of Craigdarroch. A story connected with
the function is related by the late Rev. Mr Monteith. " After
dinner Brougham took out a cigar, which he was about to light
when one of the company objected to his smoking at the table.
Brougham persisted. Thereupon the objector seized a wine-
glass and shied it at Brougham's head. Brougham sent a
tumbler back at Dr . Then followed a decanter from each
combatant, and in a short time the table might have been cleared
of every available missile had not one of the company, a tall
and powerful man, at this stage of the conflict risen from his
seat, went up to Brougham, lifted him as if he had been a child,
carried him downstairs out of the house, and deposited him
safely in the courtyard." The scene of the story was no doubt
the old Craigdarroch Inn, a place round which many memories
of bygone village life still linger. Here, for instance, in 1826,
lodged Mrs Charlotte Deans in the course of her wanderings as
a strolling player, and the curious may still read her impressions
of the place and of the people — not very favourable, it must be
MONIAIVE. 165
confessed — as contained in a volume of " Memoirs ' ' published
at Wigton in 1837. One short extract must suffice : — " We next
rested at Minnyhive . . . abounding in fierce Cameronians
with little money and plenty of pride."
Among local celebrities who are known to have visited
Moniaive, " Watty " Dunlop, the famous wit and divine, may be
mentioned. On one occasion, when spending a few days in the
village, he required a shave, and being told that Robbie M ,
a village weaver, could accommodate him, he applied to that
worthy. Robbie at once undertook the job, but he had
not proceeded far when he noticed that his customer winced
rather frequently. "Is it sair, Maister Dunlop?" inquired
Robbie solicitously. "Sair!" exclaimed the witty sufferer, "it
depends upon what ye ca't; if it's flayin' it's no' sair, but if it's
shavin' it's desprit sair." Mr Dunlop, we need scarcely say,
journeyed to Dumfries on the next occasion when he required
similar attentions.
Other and still more notable names are linked with Moniaive
and its neighbourhood. Here, in the stirring days of persecu-
tion, the Rev. John Blackader, "outed " minister of Troqueer,
found sanctuary, first at Caitloch and afterwards at Ingleston
and Bardennoch. At Kirkland, about two miles away, Thomas'
Boston, author of the Fourfold State, and one of the
twelve "Marrow-men," taught school and formed a pro-
fitable acquaintanceship with Janet Maclannie, " an old, exer-
cised, godly woman."1 It was here also that he first began to
record passages of his life, using for the purpose, as he himself
tells us, loose scraps of paper.2 At Dungalston, Dhanjebhai
Nauroji, a distinguished Parsee scholar and convert to
Christianity, sojourned with the Rev. Patrick Borrowman.
James Hogg, the Ettrick shepherd, and his friend Professor
Wilson, were frequent visitors at Hastings Hall as the guests of
1. Memoirs, pp. 19-20.
2. Ibid.
166 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Mr and Mrs Robert MTurk; and we believe that Thomas
Carlyle was entertained on more than one occasion at the same
hospitable board. Coming down to a later period, it was at
Hastings Hall that Dr Walter C. Smith wrote Borland Hall, a
poem in which the hills and valleys of the parish are invested
with the halo of romance, as when he says : —
" The bonnie green braes of Borland glen ;
Cornland and woodland and lily-white lea,
Up to the skyline, hill, and tree,
All will be yours to the waterhead,
Where it flows from the bosom of big Knockben,
And the Kelpie's pool lies dark and dead
Under the great rocks, towering red,
And only the ripple of water-hen
Stirs its surface, now and then,
As she oars her way from the outer edge
Through the bending ring of spotted sedge,
And the ring of water-lilies, within,
That fringes with beauty the dark pool of sin."
Within still more recent years James Paterson, R.S.A.,
a Scottish painter of high and increasing reputation, has
formed associations with Moniaive of a peculiarly intimate
character. Coming to Moniaive in 1879, he was so much
attracted by the beauty of the district that he returned for
several years in succession, and afterwards purchased a small
property on the outskirts of the village, where he resided more
or less constantly until 1897, when he removed to Edinburgh.
Mr Paterson was elected an associate of the Royal Scottish
Academy in 1897, and a member in 1910. He is a member of
the Royal Society of Painters in Water Colour, London, of the
Royal Scottish Society of Painters in Water Colour, of the
Royal British Colonial Society of Painters, and of the Pencil
MONIAIVE. 167
Society. He is likewise a member of the Royal Academy,
Brussels, and a corresponding member of the Munich Secession.
Mr Paterson's gifts are of a versatile order, but it is as a painter
of landscapes that he is best known. Among pictures, the in-
spiration for which was drawn from Glencairn, we may mention :
— Hawk Fell (Castlefairn), the property of the Prince Regent
of Bavaria; Spring's Delay (Dalwhat Valley), Stuttgart Public
Gallery; The Nymph (Dalwhat), Weimar Public Gallery;
Borderland (Glencairn), Glasgow Municipal Collection. Mr
Paterson is represented also in the Public Galleries of Munich,
Leipsic, Buda Pesth, Venice, Brussels, Rome, Adelaide,
Buffalo and St. Louis, U.S.A., and Oldham.
WORTHIES.
Moniaive, like most small isolated communities, had its
" worthies, ' ' whose sayings and doings must often have helped
to relieve the former tedium of village life. Within the limited
space at our disposal we can do little more than mention a few
of the better known: — " Princey Fergusson " (James Fergusson),
wit and poetaster (see Bibliography), who, when taken to task
by his voluble and loud-voiced, but often-ailing aunt, for not
making more frequent inquiries as to the state of her health,
replied, " Nae need to dae that, aunt, nae need to dae that, I
can hear ye're weel lang afore I come roon Sandy Murray's
corner." " To-hay " (James Reid), weaver, with his splay leg
and strange oath, " It's my leg it is't, to hay wi' ye!" " Gibby
Smith" (Gilbert Smith) and "Andra Coats" (Andrew Arm-
strong), the heroes of many a village parade with fife and drum.
Gibby Smith aforesaid was a tailor to trade, and supplied most
of the villagers with the round flat-crowned bonnets that were
then commonly worn by the men folk. Now all Gibby's bonnets
were fashioned with the aid of a broth plate and stuffed with
"fog," and whenever Gibby saw a villager carrying his head a
trifle too high he was wont to observe, " Hee-hee-hee ! there he
168 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
gangs vvi' his held stuffed wi* fog !" Certes, it cannot have been
easy to act the hero in the eyes of one who furnished headpieces
stuffed with fog ! We may also recall " Cumarat, ' ' the " pig-
man " (crockery vendor), " Pistlefit " (James Cleland), "The
Shirra" (Samuel Cleland), " Cornal Reid" (James Reid),
"Ruglan" (John Chalmers), " Clocky " (John Millar, watch-
maker), " Caddy " (William M'Adam), and the names of many
others who are being rapidly forgotten as those who knew them
in the flesh pass one by one across the silent bourne.
THK Jouos FROM MOKIAITE CROSS.
CHAPTER XVII.— THE PRESENT TIME.
The aspect of Glencairn to-day is very different from what
it was one hundred, or even fifty, years ago. Cultivated lands
•have been improved, roads extended, and a better class of
cottages provided. Many new and handsome mansions have also
been erected, and there are few of the older dwellings, other
than cottages, that have not been remodelled and generally
brought abreast of present-day requirements. At no time has
Glencairn been a laggard in the path of social progress. Gas
was introduced into Moniaive in 1861, but a new era of lighting
is upon us, and the parish is already in possession of two success-
ful installations of electric lighting, one at Glenluiart, another at
Tererran, while workmen are at present engaged upon a third at
Auchencheyne. Draw-wells with their liability to pollution were
supplanted by a gravitation water supply in 1879. New water
channelling throughout the whole of the village was provided in
1896. The last thatch roof, as has already been mentioned,
disappeared in 1899. Coincident with these reforms the public
health of the parish has shown a marked improvement.
Notwithstanding the many changes for the better, the last
sixty-nine years have witnessed a serious diminution in the popu-
lation of the parish, as the following table will show : —
1755 - 1,794
1794 - 1,600
1801 - 1,403
1811 - - 1,666
1821 - - 1,881
1831 - - 2,068
1841 - - 2,094
1851 - 1,980
1861 . 1,867
1871 1,749
1881 - . 1,737
1891 - . . 1,647
1901 - , 1,490
170 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
It will thus be seen that since 1841 there has been a steady
decrease, and that only once before, namely, in 1801, has the
population been as low as it is at the present time. No doubt
the decrease has been partly due to causes that are operative in
all rural communities, such as the increase of the acreage under
pasture, and the substitution of machinery for hand labour in
the operations of husbandry, but we believe it will be found that
the principal cause is a baneful land system which works for the
severance of the people from the soil. Under existing condi-
tions very few of the working-class population of our country
districts can ever hope to possess even a small farm; and it is
only natural that the more enterprising, seeing no hope of
bettering their position, should migrate to the towns, or perhaps
leave the home land altogether. Such a state of matters calls
loudly for reform. The poet Goldsmith's words are as true
to-day as ever they were : —
" 111 fares the land, to hastening ills a prey,
Where wealth accumulates, and men decay."1
Happily the subject is engaging the attention of our legislators
of both parties, and signs are not wanting that remedial measures
will soon be placed upon the Statute Book.
The assessable rental of the parish for 1909-10 is as
follows:— Owners, £12,254 15s 7d; Occupiers, £6,655 11s 7d.
Poor Rate — Owners, 3d per £1 ; Occupiers, 2d. Education
Rate — Owners, 3fd; Occupiers, 3|d. Registration Rate —
Owners, |d; Occupiers, £d.
The number of poor on the roll is 17. This is in marked
contrast to 1872, when no fewer than eighty-three persons were in
regular receipt of parochial relief.2
The Parish Council, called into existence by the Local
Government (Scotland) Act of 1894, consists of the following
members : —
1. The Deserted Village.
2. Monteith's The Parish of Olencairn, p. 58,
THE PRESENT TIME. 171
William Barber of Tererran (Chairman).
Captain George Laurie Walker of Crawfordton.
Mrs Ellen M. Monteith of Glenluiart.
Major M'Call of Bardennoch, (now of Caitloch).
Robert Macmillan of Woodlea.
Cecil E. Laurie, Jarbruck.
William Hastings, Moniaive.
William Fergusson, Moniaive.
James Henderson, Slatehouse.
The office of Clerk to the Council is filled by Mr David Corson,
solicitor, Union Bank of Scotland, Limited, Moniaive.
SOCIETIES AND CLUBS.
Among educative institutions the Library and Reading Room
first claims our notice. It is the product of a union, effected in
1894, between the Glencairn Subscription Library, founded in
1812, and the Library of the Moniaive Mutual Improvement
Society, instituted in 1858. In 1894 both of these once flourish-
ing institutions had passed into a moribund condition, and amal-
gamation was resolved upon as the most promising way of pro-
longing their usefulness. The combined Libraries are now
accommodated in the Glencairn Library and Reading Room,
Chapel Street, Moniaive. The terms of subscription are: —
One year, 2s 6d; six months, 2s; three months, Is; one month,
6d. The books number close upon two thousand, and additions
are constantly being made both by donation and by purchase.
During recent years courses of lectures have been arranged in
connection with the Library, and these have been attended with
a growing and very gratifying measure of success.
A Glencairn Ploughing Society has existed since 1869.
The Society was instituted, for the encouragement of ploughing,
at a meeting held in Dumfries on the 27th day of January, when
John M'Millan of Glencrosh was appointed President and Robert
W. Sloane Secretary. To-day the same offices are filled by
172 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
William Barber of Tererran and James F. Browne, Shancastle,
respectively. The name of the Society was changed in 1890 to
"The Glencairn and Tynron Ploughing Society."
A Horticultural Society was established in 1879, and the
exhibitions of the Society, which are held annually, have already
done much to foster a love of flowers in the district. The Rev.
T. Kidd, M.A., is Hon. President of the Society, while Mr D.
Corson is President, and Mr T. Neilson Secretary.
A Moniaive Lodge of the Nottingham Order of Oddfellows
was instituted under the name "Thistle of Scotland" Lodge,
No. 101, in November, 1842. The ordinary membership is
85, and there is a flourishing Benefit Society connected with the
Lodge. Mr John Wilson is Secretary. It is interesting to
recall that a Freemason Lodge was erected in Moniaive 7th
February, 1768. The full designation of the Lodge was
"Nithsdale St. Paul, No. 139, Moniaive." Sir Robert Laurie
of Maxwelton was the first Master, and he was succeeded by
Alexander Fergusson of Craigdarroch ; Thomas Collow of
Auchenchain; and other men of influence in the parish. Mr
James Smith, the historian of Freemasonry in Dumfriesshire,
says that the Lodge existed for " about a quarter of a century."1
It is on record, however, that Lodge " Nithsdale St. Paul " was
represented at the ceremony of laying the foundation-stone of
the Burns Mausoleum in Dumfries on 5th June, 1815, and the
Lodge seems to have remained on the roll of the Order down to
August, 1823. 2 What was the immediate cause of its decease
is not stated. It is, however, gratifying to know that the
"Thistle of Scotland " Lodge of Oddfellows was so soon able
to occupy the field, and that its occupancy has been attended
with such marked success.
The inhabitants are well provided with the means of amuse-
ment. Three Curling Clubs exist in the parish, namely, the
1. History of Lodge St. MicJuiel's, Kilwinning.
2. Ibid,
THE PRESENT TIME. 173
" Glencairn Curling Club," the "Cairn Curling Club," and
the "Glencairn XX. (Twenty) Curling Club." In addition to
a number of lochs adapted to curling, there is an artificial pond
in the parish capable of accommodating two rinks. A Bowling
Green was opened in 1870, and the Club has already produced
some excellent players. Carpet Bowling is now a popular
pastime, and matches between the different clubs are frequent
during the winter months. The games of Football and Quoits
have each their devotees, and a Public Park, which was gene-
rously gifted to the inhabitants of Moniaive by Sir George
Gustavus Walker in 1894, is admirably adapted to both forms
of sport. For indoor amusements there is a Recreation Hall in
the village. The latest additions to the recreative institutions
of the parish are a Golf Club and a Cricket Club. The Golf
course is of nine holes, and has been skilfully laid out on
lands adjacent to the village. Since the course was opened in
1905 a pavilion has been added, and a number of improvements
effected on the putting-greens.
It should be mentioned that the parish possesses a Temper-
ance Society, two Bands of Hope, a Parish Nursing Association,
and a Choral Society. Apart from the Churches, the only public
buildings that call for notice are an office of the Union Bank of
Scotland, Ltd., a Public Hall, a Clock Tower, and the excellent
Schools.
POSTAL DEVELOPMENTS.
No institution can show such a record of steady progress as
the Post Office. The earliest postmaster of Moniaive of whom
we have been able to find any notice is Robert Davidson, one of
the founders of "Nithsdale St. Paul " Lodge of Freemasons, who
held office in 1768. It appears, however, that there was a post
to Moniaive in 1705, for in the Glencairn Kirk-Session Records
of that year we find one Jane Hiddlestone, who had been charged
with drinking to excess in George Ritchie's house, pleading in
174 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
extenuation that her errand there was "to wait for the post."
William Smith was postmaster in 1804. Mails were despatched
on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays at eight o'clock in the
morning, the postage to or from Edinburgh being eightpence.1
According to the Edinburgh Almanack, or Universal Scots and
Imperial Register, the number of post towns in Dumfriesshire in
1825 was nine, and Moniaive was one of the number. In 1836
Moniaive was served by a foot post from Thornhitt. The letters
for delivery arrived daily at 3 p.m., and a return despatch was
made at 4 p.m.2 Mrs Austin, nee Jean Kirkpatrick, is said to
have been the first Moniaive letter-carrier. Her appointment
was non-official, and can scarcely have been a lucrative one, for
all the remuneration she received consisted of occasional small
gratuities, chiefly in kind, from her scattered clientele. To-day
four postmen, all holding full establishment appointments, are
required for the landward deliveries, and the services of a fifth
for the village alone.
For a country office the number of missives dealt with is
considerable. During an average week the letters, post-cards,
newspapers, book packets, and parcels delivered from the
Moniaive office reach a total of between three and four thousand.
At Christmas and the New Year the number is, of course, much
larger. The following tabular statement of other units, extracted
from the returns for year ended 31st December, 1907, may not
be devoid of interest : —
Number of parcels posted at Moniaive, 3,410.
Number of Postal Order Transactions, 5,796.
Number of Telegraph Messages, forwarded and received, 5,131.
Value of Stamps sold, £614.
The returns for 1910 are not yet available, but there is good
reason to believe that they will show a distinct increase. A
considerable amount of business is likewise done in the Money
1. Universal Scots Almanack, 1804.
2. Pigot dk Co.'s Directory, 1836.
THE PRESENT TIME. 175
Order, Savings Bank, and Inland Revenue Licence branches.
In January, 1909, the payment of Old Age Pensions was added
to the official duties, and the transactions for the year show an
average of thirty -four payments weekly.
CAIRN VALLEY RAILWAY.
The first day of March, 1905, will long be famous in the
annals of the parish, for it was on that day the inhabitants first
enjoyed the privileges of railway connection. As far back as
1865 a line of railway to Moniaive by way of Thornhill and
Penpont was promoted, but in 1872 the proposal was abandoned
in favour of a line by way of Auldgirth. Notwithstanding power-
ful support this scheme was likewise abandoned, and the project
of railway connection remained in abeyance until 1897, when
an Act was passed empowering the Glasgow and South-
western Railway Company to construct an ordinary line of
railway to connect with their main system near Dumfries. Subse-
quently it was decided to take advantage of the Light Railways
Act, and powers for this purpose were granted in 1899. The
contract for the making of the line was let in 1901, and the new
line, under the name of the Cairn Valley Light Railway, was
opened for traffic on 1st March, 1905, the day being observed as
£
a holiday throughout the parish in honour of the occasion. The
line traverses a district of great natural beauty. Near Stepford
and Newtonairds, in Holywood parish, and Maxwelton, in Glen-
cairn, the scenery is particularly fine. Maxwelton House itself
is set in a picture of beauty. One delighted traveller has been
heard to declare that it is well worth while travelling up the
Cairn Valley Line were it only to see the home of " bonnie Annie
Laurie," and the dew-clad "braes " which her poet-lover has
immortalised in song.
At the present time there is a regular service of passenger
trains thrice daily each way, with additional trains on Wednes-
days and Saturdays. The amount of patronage that the line
176 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
has already received augurs well for its success. Between
October, 1906, and September, 1907, the number of passengers
booked from Moniaive was 11,502. The tonnage (goods and
mineral) for the same period was 5,813, and the number of
waggons (cattle, she?,p, etc.), 395.
THE OUTLOOK.
What effect the railway will have upon the fortunes of the
village and the parish as a whole remains to be seen. Many, we
know, anticipate the time when Moniaive will become a favourite
health resort, and we see no reason why the anticipation should
not be realised. During recent years dwellers in our towns and
cities have been turning their thoughts more and more towards
homes and holiday abodes in the country. To all such, Moniaive
offers many attractions. It possesses pure air, beautiful scenery,
and peaceful surroundings in abundance. As regards accom-
modation, the cottages, although small, are scrupulously clean,
and we can testify from intimate personal knowledge that they
are often more comfortable in their interior arrangements than
external appearances might lead one to suppose. Moreover,
even the smallest cottage has its garden, and the taste and skill
with which these garden plots are cultivated merits the highest
praise. We believe, however, that an era of house-improvement
is imminent, and that many of the old " but-and-ben ' ' dwellings
will soon be replaced by neat and comfortable modern cottages.
In Dunreggan a beginning has already been made in the direction
indicated, and it is gratifying to know ihat all the new cottages
have found tenants. Who knows but in the near future a new
Dunreggan will be seen to arise, Phoenix-like, from the ashes of
the old ?
While, as we have seen, there is not a little progress to
record, an enlightened policy seems to point much further in this
direction. Perhaps the most clamant need of the village is an
efficient drainage system. The expense would certainly be
THE PRESENT TIME. 177
heavy, but there cannot be much room for doubt that the
benefits would more than compensate for the outlay. If, indeed,
Moniaive is ever to develop into a health resort, such an im-
provement is a clear necessity. A proposal to erect a new
Public Hall has been long under consideration, but the scheme
is still in abeyance, although the need for a larger and more
comfortable hall is admitted by every one. Among minor im-
provements might be mentioned the provision of seats at suitable
places, such as Renwick's Monument, Dunreggan Brae, Crichan
Loaning, the public road between Lower Ingleston and Jar-
bruck, and at various points in the glens. Again, the numbering
of the houses is a simple and convenient device which has been
too long delayed. A short time ago a letter arrived at the Post
Office addressed to "The Lady of the House, Dunreggan," but
it had to be returned bearing the endorsement " Insufficiently
addressed." A very small outlay would obviate an inconveni-
ence of this kind.
These are useful lines of development, but we trust that the
future holds in store advances of still greater moment. Having
traced the history of the parish, we now ask, What will that future
be? It is the people, not the soil, that must give the answer.
Inspired by a noble tradition without proudly and complacently
resting in it, Glencairn has many great possibilities in store. A
parish fragrant with such names as James Renwick, John
Blackader, and Robert Gordon cannot, surely, fail to awaken
worthy ambitions in the breast of her modern sons and daughters.
We must hope that none will ever despise honest manual toil, yet
at the same time that more will find their way to the University
with a view to entering the Christian ministry and other fields of
promising service.
In what other directions may we hope for progress ? It may
well come in the development of public spirit, the larger awaken-
ing of intellect, the widening of outlook, and the general eleva-
178 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
tion of tone. Signs of such advances, as we believe, are not
wanting, while we cannot but wish that they may grow beyond
expectation. It is quite conceivable that Glencairn may in yet
more enlightened ways pursue her own higher ends, and the ends
that lie where far horizons beckon. A more lively appreciation
of such ends, and a growing readiness to be touched to these
higher issues, will surely speak of progress. May we not look
for the richer fruits of reverent faith, and the true order of
earnest, well-regulated lives ? Will not beauty of soul find here
in this choice field of Nature a yet more congenial home ? For
what Mazzini wrote of a Country we may with equal truth say of
Glencairn : — " The true Parish is the Idea to which it gives
birth."
179
APPENDIX A.
VERTEBRATE FAUNA OF GLENCAIRN.
MAMMALS.
Long-eared Bat (Plecotus auritis). Common.
Common Bat (Vesperugo pipistrellus). Common.
Daubenton's Bat (Vespertilio daubentoni). Not common.
Hedgehog (Erinaceus europoaus). Fairly common.
Mole (Talpa europoea), Abundant. Light-coloured varieties
not infrequent.
Common Shrew (Sorex araneus). Common.
Lesser Shrew (Sorex minutus). Rare, or seldom seen.
Water Shrew (Crossopus fodiens). Rare, or seldom seen.
Fox (Canis vulpes). Not numerous.
Weasel (Mustela vulgaris). Fairly common.
Stoat or Ermine (Mustela erminea). Fairly common.
Pole-Cat or Foumart (Mustela putorius). Extinct in Glencairn
since 1858.
Otter (Lutra vulgaris). Not plentiful.
Roe Deer (Capreolus caprea). Not common.
Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris). Not uncommon.
Brown Rat (Mus decumanus). Very common.
Common Mouse (Mus musculus). Common everywhere.
Field Mouse or Wood Mouse (Mus sylvaticus). Fairly numerous.
Harvest Mouse (Mus minutus). Rare.
Common Field Vole or Short-tailed Vole (Arvicola agrestis).
Common.
Red Field Vole or Bank Vole (Arvicola glariolus). Fairly
common.
180 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Water Vole (Arvicola amphibius). Abundant.
Common Hare (Lepus europoeus). Fairly common. De-
creasing.
Mountain Hare (Lepus variabilis). Seen occasionally on the
higher hills.
Rabbit (Lepus cuniculus). Very common.
BIRDS.
R= Resident.
S = Summer visitor.
W = Winter visitor
M = Visitor on migration.
C = Casual visitor.
* Species marked thus breed in the parish or its immediate
neighbourhood.
* Mistle Thrush (Turdus viscivorus). Common. R.
* Song Thrush (Turdus musicus). Common. R. and W.
Redwing (Turdus iliacus). Common visitor. W.
Fieldfare (Turdus pilaris). Common visitor. W.
* Blackbird (Turdus merula). Common. R.
* Ring Ouzel (Turdus torquatus). Common on the hills. S.
* Dipper (Cinclus aquaticus). Not uncommon. R.
* Wheatear (Saxicola cenanthe). Common. S.
* Whinchat (Pratincola rubetra). Common. S.
* Stonechat (Pratincola rubicola). Rare. R.
* Redstart (Ruticilla phoenicurus). Not infrequent. S.
* Robin (Erithacus rubecula). Common. R.
* Whitethroat (Sylvia cinerea). Common. S.
* Lesser Whitethroat (Sylvia curruca). Summer visitor.
Perhaps infrequent. S.
* Blackcap (Sylvia atricapilla). Very rare. S.
* Garden Warbler (Sylvia hortensis). Not plentiful. S.
* Golden-crested Wren (Regulus cristatus). Frequent. R.
VERTEBRATE FAUNA. 181
* Chiff chaff (Phylloscopus rufus). Rare. S.
* Willow Wren (Phylloscopus trochilus). Not uncommon. S.
* Wood Warbler (Phylloscopus sibilatrix). Fairly numerous. S.
* Sedge Warbler (Acrocephalus phragmitis). Plentiful. S.
* Grasshopper Warbler (Locustella ncevia). Occurs sparingly.
S.
* Hedge-sparrow (Accentor modularis). Common. R.
* Long-tailed Tit (Acredula rosea). Seen occasionally. R.
* Great Tit (Parus major). Common. R.
* Coal Tit (Parus britannicus). Not plentiful. R.
[Marsh Tit (Parus palustris). Reported.]
* Blue Tit (Parus coeruleus). Common. R.
* Tree Creeper (Certhia familiaris). Not uncommon. R.
* Wren (Troglodytes parvulus). Common. R.
* Pied Wagtail (Motacilla lugubris). Common. R.
* Grey Wagtail (Motacilla melanope). Not uncommon. R.
White Wagtail (Motacilla alba). Identified, but not a plenti-
ful species. M.
* Yellow Wagtail (Motacilla raii). Not common. S.
* Meadow Pipit (Anthus pratensis). Abundant. R.
* Tree Pipit (Anthus trivialis). Not uncommon. S.
Red-backed Shrike (Lanius collurio). Recorded 1910.
Rare. C.
Waxwing (Ampelis garrulus). Casual visitor. Rare. C.
* Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa grisola). Common. S.
* Pied Flycatcher (Muscicapa atricapilla). Infrequent. S.
* Swallow (Hirundo rustica). Common. S.
* House Martin (Chelidon urbica). Fairly numerous, but de-
creasing. S.
* Sand Martin (Cotile riparia). Common. S.
* Goldfinch (Carduelis elegans). Not plentiful. R.
Siskin (Chrysomitris spinus). Occurs sparingly. W.
* Greenfinch (Ligurinus chloris). Common. R.
* House Sparrow (Passer domesticus). Abundant everywhere.
R.
182 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
* Chaffinch (Fringilla ccelebs). Very plentiful. R.
Brambling (Fringilla montifringilla). Seen occasionally. W.
* Brown Linnet or Common Linnet (Linota cannabina). Plenti-
ful. R.
* Lesser Redpole (Linote rufescens). Not infrequent. R.
* Twite or Mountain Linnet (Linota flavirostris). Frequent.
R. and W.
* Bullfinch (Pyrrhula europcea). Not plentiful. R.
Crossbill (Loxia curvirostra). Seen occasionally. W.
Two-barred Crossbill (Loxia bifasciata). Recorded 1890. C.
* Corn Bunting (Emberiza miliaria). Local. R.
* Yellow-hammer (Emberiza citrinella). Common. R.
* Reed Bunting (Emberiza schoeniclus). Not uncommon. R.
Snow Bunting (Plectrophenax nivalis). Not an infrequent
visitor. W.
* Skylark (Alauda arvensis). Common. R.
* Starling (Sturnus vulgaris). Very plentiful and increasing. R.
* Magpie (Pica rustica). Scarce in Glencairn. R.
* Jackdaw (Corvus monedula). Common. Nests in rabbit
burrows. R.
* Carrion Crow (Corvus corone). Common. R.
* Hooded Crow (Corvus cornix). Occurs sparingly. R. and
W.
* Rook (Corvus frugilegus). Very plentiful. R.
* Raven (Corvus corax). Now rare, but still a nesting species.
R.
* Swift (Cypselus apus). Formerly common, now infrequent.
S.
* Nightjar (Caprimulgus europoeus). Not common. S.
* Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus major). Recorded
1908, 1909, and 1910. S.
* Kingfisher (Alcedo ispida). Not common. R.
* Cuckoo (Cuculus canorus). Fairly numerous. S.
* Barn Owl (Strix flammea). Rare, if not extinct. R.
* Long-eared Owl (Asio otus). Not uncommon. R.
VERTEBRATE FAUNA. 183
* Short-eared Owl (Asio accipitrinus). Plentiful, and resident
during vole plague, 1892. W.
* Tawny Owl (Syrnium aluco). Common. R.
Common Buzzard (Buteo vulgaris). Seen occasionally. W.
Rough -legged Buzzard (Buteo lagopus). Four seen winter
1903-4. C.
* Sparrow Hawk (Accipiter nisus). Not uncommon. R.
Kite (Milvus ictinus). Now extinct in Glencairn.
Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus). Rare. C.
* Merlin (Falco cesalon). On most of the moors, but not
plentiful. R.
* Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus). Fairly common. R.
Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo). Seen occasionally. W.
* Heron (Ardea cinerea). Not uncommon. R.
Grey-lag Goose (Anser cinereus). Seen occasionally. M.
Whooper Swan (Cygnus musicus). Recorded December,
1893. C.
* Mallard or Wild Duck (Anas boscas). Common. R.
* Teal (Nettion crecca). Not uncommon. R.
Wigeon (Mareca penelope). Not plentiful. W.
Tufted Duck (Fuligula crisata). Recorded, but not plenti-
ful. W. and(R?).
Golden-eye (Clangula glaucion). Not common. W.
Goosander (Mergus merganser). Seen occasionally on the
Cairn. W.
* Wood Pigeon or Ring Dove (Columba palumbus). Very
common. R.
* Stock Dove (Columba oenas). Not plentiful, but increasing.
R.
* Partridge (Perdix cinerea). Still fairly common, but de-
creasing. R.
* Quail (Coturnix communis). Said to have been common
about 1830, now an irregular visitor. C.
* Pheasant (Phasianus colchicus). Common. R.
* Grouse (Lagopus scoticus). Common. R.
184 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
* Black-Grouse (Tetrao tetrix). Common. R.
* Water-Rail (Rallus aquaticus). Not common, but increasing.
W. and R.
Spotted Crake (Porzana maruetta). Rare. Recorded Loch
Urr, 14th September, 1889. W. and (R?)
* Corn Crake or Land Rail (Crex pratensis). Common. S.
* Moor-hen (Gallinula chloropus). Common. R.
* Coot (Fulica atra). Occurs sparingly. R.
* Golden Plover (Charadrius pluvialis). Common on the hills.
S.
* Lapwing or Pewit (Vanellus vulgaris). Common. R.
Oyster-catcher (Hcematopus ostralegus). Has been seen on
the Cairn. S.
* Woodcock (Scolopax rusticola). Fairly numerous. Increas-
ing. R.
[Great Snipe (Gallinago major). Reported on southern
border.]
* Common Snipe (Gallinago coelestis). Common. R.
Jack Snipe (Gallinago gallinula). Not uncommon in winter.
W.
* Common Sandpiper (Totanus hypoleucus). Common. S.
* Redshank (Totanus calidris). Rapidly becoming common. S.
* Curlew (Numenius arquata). Common. S.
Common Tern (Sterna fluviatilis). Wanderer recorded 1893.
C.
* Black-headed Gull (Larus ridibundus). Common. Two
nesting places. R.
Common Gull (Larus canus). Frequent, autumn and winter
months. W.
Lesser Black-backed Gull (Larus fuscus). Not uncommon
during winter. W.
Great Black-backed Gull (Larus marinus). Seen occasion-
ally during winter. W.
Great Northern Diver (Colymbus glacialis). Specimen shot
on Cairn, 2nd February, 1877. Rare. C.
VERTEBRATE FAUNA. 185
Red-throated Diver (Colymbus septentrionalis). Recorded
1862. C.
Great Crested Grebe (Prodiceps cristatus). Recorded by
Hugh S. Gladstone, Esq. of Capenoch, Summer, 1910.
* Little Grebe or Dabchick (Prodiceps fluviatilis). First ob-
served 1885. Now nests regularly.
REPTILES.
Common Lizard (Lacerta vivipara), Generally distributed.
Slow Worm (Anguis fragilis). Local. Not plentiful anywhere.
Adder (Pelias berus). Numerous along southern and eastern
borders.
Ringed Snake (Coluber natrix). Probably introduced. Not
a plentiful species.
AMPHIBIANS.
Frog (Rana temporaria). Common.
Toad (Bufo vulgaris). Common.
Warted Newt (Molge cristata). Local.
Common Newt (Molge vulgaris). Not uncommon.
Palmated Newt (Molge palmata). Moss hags on the hills.
FISHES.
Perch (Perca fluviatilis). Said to occur in Loch Urr.
Three-spined Stickleback (Gastrosteus aculeatus). Not
uncommon.
Salmon (Salmo salar). Migrant. Not plentiful.
Sea Trout (Salmo trutta). Migrant. Not plentiful.
Common Trout (Salmo fario). Plentiful.
Pike (Esox lucius). Plentiful in Loch Urr. Not numerous
in the streams.
Minnow (Leuciscus phoxinus). Generally distributed.
Loach (Nemachilus barbatulus). Fairly numerous.
Eel (Anguilla vulgaris). Common in all lochs and streams.
APPENDIX B.
FLORA.
A LIST OF SOME OF THE LESS COMMON PLANTS FOUND IN
GLENCAIRN.
All the species enumerated have been gathered by the
writer. In a number of instances the places are also given.
RANUNCTJLACE.E.
Aquilegia vulgaris (Linn.), Columbine — Jarbruck Wood.
Helleborus viridis (Linn.), Green Hellebore — Wood near
Moniaive.
NYMPHJEACEJE.
Nuphar intermedium (Ledeb.), Yellow Water Lily — Stroan-
shalloch Loch.
FUMARIACEJE.
Corydalis claviculata (DC.), White Climbing Fumitory —
Jarbruck and Craigdarroch woods.
CRUCIFER^;.
Cochlearia officinalis (Linn.), Scurvy Grass — Martour, Dibbin,
and Conrick hills.
Hesperis matronalis (Linn.), Dame's Violet — Stream near
Moniaive and along Cairn. Recorded 1891.
Brassica campestris (L.), Wild Navew — Riverside near
Moniaive.
CISTINE^E.
Helianthemum chamaecistus (Mill.), Rock Rose — Craigneston,
600 ft., Bardennoch, 700 ft. Not plentiful.
VIOLACE^B.
Viola adorata (Linn.), Sweet Violet — River bank near Moniaive.
Viola palustris (Linn.), Marsh Violet — Twomerkland Loch.
White variety.
CARYOPHYLLEJB.
Silene Cttcubalus (Wibel.), Bladder Campion — Frequent.
Grainnes, etc.
FLORA. 187
Lychnis Githago (Lam.), Corncockle — Not frequent. Probably
introduced with seed.
Lychnis vespertina (Sip.), White Campion — Rare in Glencairn.
Sagina subulata (Wimm.), Awl -shaped Pearl -wort — Recorded
1891. Near Castlehill.
HYPERICINE.E.
Hypericum humifusum (Linn.), Trailing St. John's Wort — Not
common. Bardennoch, etc.
MALVACEJE.
Malva sylvestris (Linn.), Common Mallow — Neighbourhood of
Moniaive. Probably an outcast.
GERANIACEJE.
Geranium phaum (Linn.), Dusky Crane's-bill — Single station,
apparently old-established, near Moniaive.
Geranium sylvaticum (Linn.), Wood Crane's-bill — Not un-
common.
Geranium pralense (Linn.), Blue Meadow Crane's-bill — Less
plentiful than G. sylvaticum in Glencairn.
LEGUMINOS^B.
Trifolium arvense (Linn.), Hare's-foot Trefoil — Dry pasture
lands south-west of Moniaive; not common.
Trifolium striatum (Linn.), Soft-knotted Trefoil — Single
station. Rare.
ROSACES.
Prunus insititia (Linn.), Bullace — Jarbruck Woods.
Spiraa salicifolia (Linn.), Willow-leaved Spiraea — Near Jar-
bruck.
Rubus saxatilis (Linn.), Stone Blackberry — Sub-Alpine glens,
Minnygrile, Glencrosh, etc.
Rubus Chamamorus (Linn.), Cloudberry — Western border of
parish, 1700 ft.
Rosa spinosissima (Linn.), Burnet-leaved Rose — Single station.
Rare inland.
Agrimonia Eupatoria (Linn.), Common Agrimony — Not infre-
quent. Woodlea, Glencrosh, etc.
188 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
SAXIFRAGES.
Saxifrdga stellar is (Linn.), Starry Saxifrage — Rare. Dalwhat
Glen, alt. 1650 ft.
Saxifraga granulata (Linn.), Meadow saxifrage — Bank of
Castlefairn stream. Only station.
Saxifraga hypoides (Linn.), Mossy Saxifrage, locally " Ladies'
cushion " — Benbrack, 1800 ft., and neighbouring hills.
CRASSULACEJE.
Sedum Rhodiola (DC.), Rose-root Stonecrop — River bank below
Moniaive.
Sedum villosum (Linn.), Hairy Stonecrop — Wet roadsides in the
hillier districts.
Sedum Telephium (Linn.), Orpine or Livelong — Grainnes, near
Moniaive.
DROSERACEJE.
Drosera longifolia (Linn.), Long-leaved Sundew — Western
border of parish. Rare.
ONAGRACES.
Circaa lutetiana (Linn.), Enchanter's Nightshade — Not
common. Woods near Caitloch and Poundland.
LYTHRACE.3E.
Lythrum salicaria (Linn.), Upright Purple Loosestrife — Not
common. River bank near Moniaive, Loch Urr, etc.
UMBELLIFERS.
Sanicula Europcea (Linn.), Wood Sanicle — Wooded glens. Not
uncommon.
Carum verticillatum (Koch), Whorled Caraway — Abundant in
Glencairn.
Myrrhis adorata (Scop.), Sweet Cicely — Not uncommon.
(Enanthe crocata (Linn.), Hemlock Water-dropwort. Not
common. Near Moniaive and Maxwelton.
Meum Athamanticum (Jacq.), Bald-money — Plentiful but local.
CAPRIFOLIACEJE.
Adoxa Moschatellina (Linn.), Moschatel — Not infrequent.
Woods and hedgerows.
FLORA. 189
RUBIACE.2B
Galium cruciata (Scop.), Cross-wort Bedstraw — Roadside near
Moniaive. Not common.
VALERIANE^E.
Valeriana pyrenaica (Linn.), Heart-leaved Valerian — Dalwhat
stream, near Moniaive.
COMPOSITE.
Solidago Virgaurea (Linn.), Golden-rod — Not uncommon.
Tanacetum vulgare (Linn.), Tansy — Garden escape. Grainnes,
near Moniaive.
Senecio sylvaticus (Linn.), Mountain Groundsel — Near Cross-
ford. Rare in Glencairn.
Arctium lappa (Linn.), Common Burdock — Not infrequent.
CAMPANULACE^i.
Lobelia Dortmanna (Linn.), Water Lobelia — Loch Urr. Rare.
Campanula latifolia (Linn.), Giant Bell-flower — Cairn and its
tributaries.
VACCINIACEJE.
Vaccinium Vitis-Idcea (Linn.), Cowberry — Western border of
parish. Not common.
PRIMULACE^.
Anagallis arvensis (Linn.), Scarlet Pimpernel — Not infrequent.
Chiefly by waysides.
APOCYNACE^E.
Vinca minor (Linn.), Lesser Periwinkle — Jarbruck woods.
Rare.
GENTIANEJB.
Gentiana campestris (Linn.), Field Gentian — Old hill pastures.
Kirkcudbright, etc.
Menyanthes trifoliata (Linn.), Bog Bean — Common in marshy
places.
BORAGINEJE.
Symphytum officinale (Linn.), Common Comfrey — Not un-
common. Abundant on the Cairn.
Anchusa sempervirens (Linn.), Evergreen Alkanet — Craig
darroch woods. Rare.
190 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
CONVOLVULACEJB.
Convolvulus Sepium (Linn.), Great Bindweed — Frequent along
Cairn.
SOLANACE.3S.
Solatium nigrum (Linn), Common Nightshade — Near Moniaive.
Probably casual. Rare.
Solatium Dulcamara (Linn.), Woody Nightshade or Bittersweet.
On Cairn near Maxwelton, etc.
SCROPHULARINE.E.
Verbascum Thapsus (Linn.), Great Mullein — Roadside near
Moniaive. Rare.
Linaria vulgaris (Mill.), Yellow Toad-flax — Fields and road-
sides. Not common.
Mitnulus luteus (Linn.), Yellow Mimulus — Naturalised escape
or outcast rapidly becoming common.
LENTIBULARIEJE.
Utricularia neglecta (Lehm), Bladder-wort — New Scottish
record, 1891.
Utricularia intermedia (Hayne). Recorded 1887.
Utricularia minor (Linn.), Lesser Bladder-wort — Recorded
1890.
LABIATE.
Scutellaria galericulata (Linn.), Common Skull Cap — Loch Urr
and near Maxwelton. Not common.
Galeopsis versicolor (Curt.), Large-flowered Hemp-nettle —
Frequent in Glencairn.
POLYGONACEJE.
Polygonum Bistorta (Linn.), Common Bistort or Snake-weed —
Near Caitloch, Blackstone, and Crossford. Not common.
Polygonum amphibium (Linn.), Amphibious Bistort — Loch Urr.
Rare.
Polygonum minus (Huds.), Creeping Persicaria — Loch Urr.
Rare.
EUPHORBIACEJE.
Euphorbia dulcis (Linn.), an alien — Castlefairn stream. Rare.
FLORA. 191
SALICINE.E.
Salix pentandra (Linn.), Bay-leaved Willow — Loch Urr, Castle-
fairn, and near Moniaive. Rare.
Salix repens (Linn.), Dwarf Silky Willow — Single station.
Rare.
EMPETRACE.E.
Empetrum nigrum (Linn.), Black Crowberry — Frequent Gir-
harrow and other hills. Rare in fruit.
ORCHIDE.E.
Malaxis paludosa (Sw.), Bog Orchis — Recorded 1887. Rare.
Listera ovata (R. Br.), Twayblade — Frequent in moist pastures.
Habenaria albida (R. Br.), Small White Habenaria — Mountain
pastures. Not common.
Habenaria viridis (R. Br.), Green Habenaria. Sparsely distri-
buted on the hills.
LILIACEJE.
Fritillaria meleagris (Linn.), Common Fritillary or Snake 's-
head — River bank east of Moniaive. Recorded 1906.
Rare.
TYPHACE2E.
Sparganium ramosum (Curtis), Branched Bur-Reed — Ditches
adjoining Cairn. Not infrequent.
AROIDE.E.
Arum maculatum (Linn.), Cuckoo-pint — Jarbruck Wood.
Recorded 1887. Rare.
CYPERACE.E.
Carex dioica (Linn.), Separate-headed Sedge — Girharrow. Not
common.
Carex pauci flora (Lightf.), Few-flowered Sedge — Girharrow and
Loch Urr. Rare.
Carex muricata (Linn.), Great Prickly Sedge — Frequent by the
road-sides.
Carex remota (Linn.), Distant-spiked Sedge — Woodlea, Cait-
loch. Not common.
Carex curia (Good.), White Sedge— Bogs. Not infrequent.
192 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Car ex irrigua (Hoppe). Recorded in Babington's Flora. Re-
discovered, 1887. Rare.
Carex limosa (Linn.), Mud Sedge — Stroanshalloch Loch. Rare.
Carex pallescens (Linn.), Pale Sedge. Frequent.
Carex sylvatica (Huds.), Pendulous Wood Sedge — Jarbruck and
Caitloch. Not common.
Carex ftava (Linn.), Yellow Sedge. Frequent.
Carex fulva (Good.), Tawny Sedge. Frequent.
Carex filiformis (Linn.), Slender-leaved Sedge — Girharrow.
Rare.
Carex hirta (Linn.), Hairy Sedge. Rare in Glencairn.
Carex paludosa (Good.), Lesser Common Sedge — Ingleston and
Maxwelton.
Carex vesicaria (Linn.), Short-beaked Bladder Sedge — On
Cairn. Not common.
Carex ampullacea (Good.), Slender-beaked Bladder Sedge.
Frequent.
FILICES.
Hymcnophyllum unilateral (Bory), Filmy Fern — Upper reaches
of Dalwhat Water, Glencrosh, and Minnygrile. Rare.
Cryptogramme crispa (R. Br.), Parsley Fern — Caitloch, Craig-
darroch, Castlehill, etc. Not plentiful.
Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum (Linn.), Black Spleenwort —
Minnygrile and near Kirkcudbright. Not common.
Asplenium Ruta-muraria (Linn.), Wall-rue. Jarbruck and
Craignee. Not common.
Ceterach officinarum (Willd.), Scale Fern — Near eastern boun-
dary of parish. Rare.
Scolopendrium vulgare (Symons), Hart's-tongue. Rare in
Glencairn. Specimens gathered near Jarbruck and Glen-
crosh.
Cystopteris fragilis (Bernh.), Brittle Bladder-fern — Glenjaan
Hill. Rare.
Polypodium Phegopteris (Linn.), Beech Fern — Glencrosh,
Minnygrile, and other sub-alpine glens.
FLORA. 193
Poly podium Dryopteris (Linn.) — Oak Fern. Frequent.
Ophioglossum vulgatum (Linn.), Adder's-tongue Fern — Cait-
loch, 600 ft., meadows near Twomerkland Mill, and
Castlehill.
Botrychium Lunaria (Sw.), Moon-wort Fern — Frequent through-
out Glencairn.
(In all 20 species of Ferns have been recorded.)
LYCOPODIACEJE.
Lycopodium Selago (Linn.), Fir Club Moss — Found sparingly
on upland moors.
Lycopodium davatum (Linn.), Common Club Moss — Among the
heather, Girharrow, etc. Not plentiful.
Selaginella selaginoides (Gray) — Frequent in boggy places on
the hills.
194
ADDENDUM TO FLORA.
INDIVIDUAL TREES OF LARGE GROWTH:
TABULAR LIST.
ASH. — Glencairn Churchyard, N.E. corner adjoining roadway
Circumference 12 ft., circa 1883.
ASH. — Glencairn Churchyard, east of old church, 11 ft. 8 in.
at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
ASH. — Avenue, north-east of Craigdarroch, 12 ft. 3 in. at 5 ft.
above the ground, 1909.
ASH. — South-east of Kirkcudbright Farm, 12 ft. in circumfer-
ence at 4 ft. above the ground, 1909.
ASH. — South-west of Kirkcudbright Farm, 11 ft. 4 in. at 5 ft.
above the ground, 1909.
BEECH. — Craigdarroch. Cut down owing to injury sustained
during storm, 1883. Girth at base 16 ft. 2 in.; at 6 ft.
from base 14 ft. 2 in.
BEECH. — Back road Craigdarroch, 12 ft. 2 in. at 5 ft. above the
ground.
BEECH. — Near back gate Craigdarroch, 14 ft. in circumference
between 4 and 5 ft. above the ground, 1908.
BEECH. — South-east of Lodge, Craigdarroch, 16 ft. in circum-
ference at 5 ft. above the ground, 1908.
BEECH.- — On line of old roadway between Woodhouse and
Craigdarroch, 12 ft. 6 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
BEECH. — On line of old roadway between Woodhouse and
Craigdarroch, 12 ft. 7 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
BEECH. — Adjoining roadway north-east of Craigdarroch Gardens,
13 ft. 10 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
BEECH.- — Overlooking avenue north-east of Craigdarroch Man-
sion house, 16 ft. 6 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
BEECH. — In field north-east of Maxwelton Lodge (South
entrance), 15 ft. 6 in. at 4 ft. above the ground, 1909.
BEECH. — Adjoining roadway Kirkcudbright Farm, 12 ft. 6 in.
at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
ADDENDUM TO FLORA. 195
BEECH. — Craigneston, near roadway, 15 ft. in circumference at
5 ft. from the ground, 1908.
CRAB. — On line of old roadway north of Woodhouse, 7 ft. 3 in.
in circumference at 3 ft. above the ground, 1909.
ELM. — Near public roadway a few yards north-west of Craig-
darroch Lodge, 12 ft. 1 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
ELM. — Adjoining roadway south-east of Craigdarroch Lodge,
11 ft. 8 in. in circumference, at 5 ft. above the ground,
1909.
ELM. — On line of old roadway near Dungalston, 13 ft. in cir-
cumference at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
HORSE CHESTNUT. — Two, growing on lawn in front of Craig-
darroch Mansion house, respectively 11 ft. and 11 ft. 10 in.
at 5 ft. above ground, 1909.
HORSE CHESTNUT. — North-east of Old Crawfordton, 13 ft. 6 in.
at 5 ft. above the ground, 1910.
LARCH. — Blown down at Craigdarroch, 1883. 8 ft. 8 in. in
circumference. ,
LARCH. — Cut at Craigdarroch, 1906. 13 ft. 6 in. in circum-
ference at base, with 36 feet of clean stem.
LARCH. — North-west of Craigdarroch Lodge, 12 ft. 6 in. in
circumference at 5 ft. above the ground, 1908.
LARCH. — North-west of Craigdarroch Lodge, 11 ft. 6 in.
between 4 and 5 ft. from the ground, 1909.
OAK. — Glencairn Churchyard, 10 ft. in circumference at 5 ft.
above the ground.
OAK. — Near entrance to Old Crawfordton, 12 ft. in circum-
ference at 5 ft. above the ground.
OAK. — South-west of Hunter's Lodge, 10 ft. 6 in. in circum-
ference at 4 ft. above the ground, 1909.
SCOTCH FIR. — Craigneston, 10 ft. in circumference at 5 ft.
above the ground, 1908.
SILVER FIR. — Ladies' Brae Plantation, Craigdarroch, blown
down 1902. 16 ft. 7 in. in circumference at base.
SILVER FIR. — Ladies' Brae Plantation, Craigdarroch, a com-
panion tree to the above, 14 ft. 8 in. at base; 13 ft. at
5 ft. above the ground, 1908.
196
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
SILVER FIR. — Ladies' Brae Plantation, Craigdarroch, 11 ft.
11 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1908.
SYCAMORE. — Woodlea, 10 ft. 9 in. at 5 ft. above the ground,
1908.
SYCAMORE.— Back road, Craigdarroch, 14 ft. in circumference
at 5 ft. above the ground, 1908.
SYCAMORE. — Near entrance to Gardens, Craigdarroch, 11 ft.
9 in. at 5 ft. above the ground, 1909.
SYCAMORE. — Castlehill, 14 ft. 4 in. in circumference at 5 ft.
above the ground, 1909. Perhaps the finest tree in the
parish.
YEW. — Nine fine trees at Snade. Two largest, respectively
10 ft. 5 in. and 10 ft. 6 in. at 5 ft. above the ground.
197
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1841. [Prepared by John Hamilton.] Edinburgh. 1841.
8vo.
The Church of Scotland's Claim of Right, to which are pre-
fixed the Speeches of . . . Dr Gordon ... in sup-
port of the same, May 24, 1842. 1842. 8vo.
The Means of Regeneration: Sermon. . . . Edinburgh.
1871. 8vo. [Attributed in Bell Catalogue to Dr Gordon.]
Euclid; Geography; Meteorology. In "The Edinburgh
Encyclopedia."
CLASON, REV. PATRICK, D.D., and CUNNINGHAM, REV. WILLIAM,
D.D. Two Sermons preached . . . Nov. 6, 1853, after
the funeral of Rev. Robert Gordon, D.D. Edinburgh. 1853.
8vo.
GRAHAM, COL. NICHOLAS G. GRAHAM, of Jarbruck.
Charges against the Right Honourable Lord John Russell for
illegal oppression by himself and subordinates, when Home
Secretary. With a dedicatory Letter to the Queen.
Edinburgh. 1856.
GRIERSON, REV. ALEXANDER, A.M., Free Church, Irongray.
Sermons. Edinburgh. N.D. [c. 1832.] Sm. 8vo. pp. viii., 265.
204 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
GRIERSON, REV. WILLIAM.
Parish of Glencairn. In "The Statistical Account," 1792, II.
339-344.
GROSE, FRANCIS, F.A.S.
The Bow Butts, near Jarborough Castle, Glencairn. p. 150.
In " The Antiquities of Scotland," I., 1789.
HATELY, T. L., Precentor. Free High Church, Edinburgh, d. 1867.
Glencairn.
Tune, name bestowed in honour of Dr Gordon.
HEWISON, J. KING, D.D., F.S.A.(Scot).
The Vale of Cairn in Story and Song. In " The Gallodivian,"
Vol. VII., 158.
HlSLOP, J.
A short memoir of Elizabeth Faulds Hislop, and other
remarks, designed chiefly for the benefit of the young of
Mineyhive. Beith. 1841.
HUNTER, WALTER, Skinner in Moniaive.
A few remarks assaying to prove the existence of the Supreme
Deity, from his works and revelation. Dumfries: Printed
by D. Halliday. 1849.
HYSLOP, JOHN, " The Postman Poet."
The Dream of a Masque: And other Poems. Kilmarnock.
1882.
Memorial Volume of John Hyslop, the postman poet. Kil-
marnock. 1895.
INGLIS, JOHN, D.D.
Reminiscences of Missionary Life and Work in the New
Hebrides. Edinburgh. 1887.
Bible Illustrations from the New Hebrides. Edinburgh.
1890.
A Translation of the Scriptures into Aneityumese. Published
by the British and Foreign Bible Society.
KIDD, REV. THOMAS, M.A., Moniaive.
" The Covenanters," Dr King Hewison. (An appreciation.)
In " The Gallovidian," Vol. X.
LAURIE, REV. SIR EMILIUS, Bart., B.D., of Maxwelton.
Nineveh, the Discoveries of Layard. [Lecture.] 1853.
An Evangelic Ministry the want of the Times. [Sermon]
delivered on the occasion of the appointment of Dr Tait as
Bishop of London. 1858.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. '205
LAURIE, REV. SIB EMILIUS, Bart., B.D., of Maxwelton (contd.).
A Commentary on St. Paul's Epistle to the Galatians.
London. 1869. xxxii., 416.
On the Epistle of Clement of Rome. [Two Lectures, 1872.]
Thorough. London. 1878. ix., 378.
Deep unto Deep. London. 1880. viii., 384.
Speeches delivered in the Public Hall, Moniaive, 26th Decem-
ber, 1889, and 31st January, 1890, on the Local Government
(Scotland) Act. Dumfries, pp. 16.
In Memoriam, " For ever with the Lord." Dumfries. 1897.
pp. 8.
Sermons on deaths of Col. Sir G. G. Walker, K.C.B., and
Rev. J. Morland Rice, B.D.
The Home of Annie Laurie. In Trans. D. and G. N. H. and
A. Soc. 1894-95.
Gleanings from Family Records. Ibid. 1898-99.
On the Election of Ministers in the Church of Scotland.
Dumfries. 1899.
LAUIUE, MARGARET, Daughter of Sir Robert of Maxwelton.
Manuscript. Letter dated Dumfries, September 10th, 1812,
addressed to " Charles Kirkpatrick Sharpe, Esq., Hoddom
Castle," as to origin of the song " Maxwelton banka are
bonnie." pp. 2, 4| by 3J. In possession of Mr William
Macmath, Edinburgh.
M'CALL, REV. WILLIAM, of Caitloch.
Two Memorial Discourses. Edinburgh : Printed for private
circulation. 1868.
MACMILLAN, ROBERT, J.P.
Blackface Sheep. In " The Standard Cyclopedia of Modern
Agriculture and Rural Economy." 12 vols. London.
M'TTTRK, ROBERT, of Hastings Hall.
Prize Essays and Transactions of the Highland and Agricul-
tural Society of Scotland: — Vol. XI., On the Extirpation of
Ferns from Pasture Lands where the Plough cannot be used.
pp. 371-376. 1843, On Protection for Sheep. pp. 45-50.
1844, On the mode in which Lime operates in rendering the
soil better adapted for the Germination and growth of par-
ticular plants, pp. 127-134. (Silver Medal.) Vol. XIV.,
On the Nature and Growth of Wool. pp. 651-663. (Gold
Medal.) On Supplying Sheep with Food and Shelter, pp.
631-651. (Gold Medal.) 1846, On the Cultivation of the
Red Clover, pp. 385-400. (Gold Medal.)
206 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
MAIDMENT, JAMES, Advocate.
The Glencairn Peerage. In " Reports of Claims preferred to
the House of Lords in the cases of the . . . and Glen-
cairn Peerages." Edinburgh. 1840.
MARCHBANK, AGNES.
Ruth Farmer, a story. London. 1896.
Scene laid in Glencairn.
MARTIN, Dr J. W.
Place-names of the Cairn Valley. In Trans. D. and G. N. H.
and A. Soc. 1899-1900.
Fauna of Glencairn. op. cit. 1901-2, 1905-6, 1906-7.
MONIAIVE FRIENDLY SOCIETY.
Laws and Regulations of the Minnyhive Friendly Society.
Instituted, May 3rd, 1805, as amended 3rd November, 1815.
Dumfries: "Dumfries and Galloway Courier" Office. C.
Munro & Co. 1816.
MONTEITH, REV. JOHN.
The Parish of Glencairn. Glasgow. 1876. pp. 79.
Originally appeared in " Dumfries and Galloway Courier
and Herald," June-August, 1874.
NICOL, WILLIAM, of Laggan.
Dear Christless Bobbie, what is become of thee? Edinburgh,
10th February, 1793. In "Works of Robert Burns," ed.
W. Scott Douglas. VI., 54.
See also Burns, Robert.
PARK, REV. JOHN, D.D., Glencairn.
Lectures and Sermons. 1865.
Songs composed and in part written by the late Rev. John
Park, D.D., St. Andrews, with introductory notice by
Principal Shairp, LL.D., St. Andrews. Leeds. 1876. pp.
viii., 382.
PATERSON, JAMES, R.S.A.
Carlyle at Craigenputtock. In " Good Words." 1882.
Articles in " Scottish Art Review," signed " Anonymous."
1888.
Nithsdale. [Letterpress and Illustrations.] 1893.
PHILIP, REV. ROBERT G., M.A., Glencairn.
Articles: — Parousia; Praise; Prayer; Righteousness, Worship.
In " The Temple Dictionary of the Bible." Dent & Co.
London. 1910.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. 207
[POLLOCK, REV. JOHN, Glencairn.]
An Answer to the first part of Humble Pleadings, or a
Vindication of the Church of Scotland from the Unjust
Aspersions of Mr Hepburn and his Party. Submitted to
the Judgment of all Impartial and Unprejudiced People,
especially of these in the Shires of Nithsdale, Air, and
Clidsdale, with the Stuartries of Annandale and Kirkcud-
bright. By a Well-wisher of the Good-old-way. [Texts and
motto.] Drumfries: Printed by Robert Rae at his Printing-
House in the Kirk-gate. 1717. 4to. Epistle, pp. viii.,
75.
RAE, REV. PETER, Kirkbride and (later) Kirkconnel.
MS. A Natural and Geneological History of the Shire of
Drumfries.
Circa 1710-1747. An incomplete MS. in Rae's hand in the
possession of the Rev. Dr J. King Hewison, Rothesay,
includes historical and descriptive accounts of the parishes
of Kirkbride, Durisdeer, Morton, Penpont, Keir, Close-
burn, and Glencairn, with notices of the principal families.
RENWICK, REV. JAMES, M.A.
Apologetical Declaration published at Sanquhar, June 22,
1680.
Printed in " An Informatory Vindication " and ascribed,
in part at least, to Renwick.
The Testimony of some Persecuted Presbyterian Ministers of
the Gospel. Given in to the Ministers at Edinburgh by
Mr James Renwick upon the 17 Januarii, 1B88. [Texts.]
Printed in the year 1688. 4to. pp. 36.
Antipas, or the Dying Testimony of Mr James Renwick,
minister of the Gospel, who suffered at the Grass Market
of Edinburgh, February 17, 1688. [Edinburgh, 1688.] Sm.
4to. pp. 8.
September, 1687. Some Notes or Heads of a Preface and
Sermon at Lintock-steps in the parish of Stenous in Clydes-
dale, by that Great Man of God and now glorified Martyr,
Mr James Renwick. 4to. pp. 16. 7J by 5J.
Mr James Renwick. January 22, 1688. Some Notes or
Heads of a Sermon preached by that great and bright
shining Gospel-Star and now Glorified Martyr. pp. 15.
7' by 51.
Mr James Renwick. A Sermon preached by that Eminent
Godly and Faithfull Servant of Jesus Christ and Minister
of the Gospel. Isaiah 8, 17. pp. 8. 7 by 5-f- .
The Saint's Duty in Evil Times. In two Sermons. Glasgow.
1779. 24pp.
Probably published as early as 1716.
208 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
RENWIOK, REV. JAMES, M.A. (contd.).
[The] Church's Choice. A Sermon on Canticles, Ch. 1, 5, 7.
Printed in the year 1705. 55 pp. 7 by oi.
An Informatory Vindication of a poor, wasted, misrepresented
Remnant of the Suffering, Anti-Popish, Anti-Prelatick,
Anti-Erastian, Anti-Sectarian, true Presbyterian Church
of Christ in Scotland, united together in a general corre-
spondence. By way of Reply to various Accusations in
Letters, Informations, and Conferences given forth against
them. 1707. 12mo. pp. 278.
A Confutation of a Scandalous Pamphlet, intituled A
Manifesto, or the Standard of the Church of Scotland.
. By the United Societies. . . . To which is
annexed A Pertinent Letter of Mr James Renwick's to Mr
Langlans. . . . Printed in the year 1724. 12mo.
pp. 48.
A Choice Collection of very valuable Prefaces, Lectures, and
Sermons, preached upon the Mountains and Muirs, etc., of
Scotland, in the hottest time of the late Persecution. In
Two Volumes. By that faithful Minister and Martyr of
Jesus Christ, the Reverend Mr James Renwick. Glasgow.
Vol. I., 1748. Vol. II., 1751. Sm. 8vo. [Often reprinted
with additions.]
In an edition of the Sermons published at Glasgow in
1776 we find the following names among the subscribers: —
John Smith younger of Glen j an, Samuel Gries (Grier?)
in Miniehive. Also the following, ' given in by James
Fisher, Merchant in Minnyhive: —
James Maxwell. Thomas Drummond.
William Maxwell. Robert Hogg.
James Muirhead. Nathaniel Davidson.
Robert Muirhead. Alexander Ferguson.
John Wallace. William Cotts.
James M'Queen. William Bom'tin.
A Collection of Letters, consisting of Ninety-three, Sixty-one
of which wrote by the Rev. Mr James Renwick .
From the years 1663 to 1689 inclusive. (Edited by Rev.
John Macmillan of Pentland.) Edinburgh. . . . 1764.
12mo. pp. xii., 437.
Subscribers' Names. . . Glencairn Parish — Walter
Clark, merchant in Minniehive ; John Cunningham,
farmer, Barbowie ; Samuel Grierson, taylor in Minnie-
hive ; James Grierson, taylor there ; Thomas Gracie, dyker
there ; William M'Whir there ; Murdoch Murphie, inn-
keeper there ; Elizabeth Smith, in Glenf an.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. 209
RBNWICK, REV. JAMES, M.A. (contd.).
Proclamations by the Privy Council: — 20th September, 1684.
Against Mr James Renwick. Edinburgh, Heir of Andrew
Anderson, single sheet.
9th December, 1686. Offering a reward. . . . [for] the
person of Mr James Renwick. Edinburgh, Heir of Andrew
Anderson, single sheet.
18th October, 1687. Against field conventicles . . . reward
for apprehending James Renwick. Edinburgh, Heir of
Andrew Anderson, single sheet.
An Elegie upon the Death of that Famous and Faithful
Minister and Martyr, Mr James Renwick. Composed im-
mediately after his Execution at Edinburgh, 17th Feb.,
1688. [Text Rev. 2, 13. Figure of an angel sitting, with
a crown in each hand.] Printed in the year 1688. Sm. 4to.
Six leaves. Title within black border. Two anagrams and
an acrostick on last page.
Vertoog van het quaad der toelating, vergunt door den Koning
van Engeland ; en der Addressen daar over gedaan aan
hem ; en de noodsakelikheyd om't Evangelium voortaan in
de velden te prediken. Voorgestelt door eenige vervolchde
Schotse Predicanten, en gepresenteert aen de Predicanten
tot Edenburch . . . door Mr J. Renwick. [Translated
from the English, Amsterdam?] 1688. 4to.
Apparently a representation on Renwick' a side.
[LiN, THOMAS, Junior.]
The Friendly Conference, or a Discourse between the
Country man and his Nephew. . . Wherein . . The
manifold difference between Mr M'Millan and Mr J.
Renwick . . is clearly illustrated. Edinburgh. 1711.
4to.
SHIELDS, ALEXANDER.
The Life and Death of . . Mr James Renwick . . .
by Mr Alexander Shields. 1724.
The Life of James Renwick. . . . Dumfries. Printed for
the Booksellers, pp. 24.
A Chap-book, Reprinted from Howie's " Scots Worthies."
1775. Issued after 1827.
[SiME, WILLIAM.]
The Life of James Renwick, the last of the Scottish Martyrs.
. . Edinburgh. 1833. 12mo.
210 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
HENWICK, REV. JAMES, M.A. (contd.).
SIMPSON, REV. ROBERT, D.D., Sanquhar.
Life of the Rev. James Renwick. Edinburgh. 1843.
pp. viii., 220. 12mo. [First edition. Anonymous. Edin-
burgh. 1833. 12mo. pp. 180.]
BEITH, ALEXANDER, D.D.
James Renwick. In "Scottish Reformers and Martyrs." 1860.
ANDERSON, REV. WILLIAM, A.M., Loanhead, Edinburgh.
The Voice of Renwick. . . A Sermon preached [at
Moniaive] on the bi-centenary of his birth. London.
1862. pp. 47.
HOUSTON, THOMAS, D.D.
Spiritual Support and Consolation in Difficult Times: The
Letters of the Rev. James Renwick. . . With an Intro-
duction . . by Thomas Houston, D.D. Paisley. 1865.
iv., 9-290.
AITCHISON, SIR CHARLES U.
Passages in the Lives of Helen Alexander and James Currie.
Printed for family use. 1869. By Charles U. Aitchison,
Her Majesty's Chief Commissioner in British Burmah, a
descendant.
Helen Alexander says that she was " married in the year
1687, November 30th, by the worthy Mr James Renwick.
When Mr Renwick was executed I went and saw him in
prison ; and I said to him : ' Ye will get the white robes,1
and he said, ' and palms in my hands.! And when he was
execute I went into the Grey-friars yard, and I took him
in my arms till his clothes were taken off, and I helped
to wind him before he was put in the coffin."
DODDS, JAMES.
Lays of the Covenanters. Edinburgh. 1880. Renwick in the
Cottage of John Brown of Priesthill, November, 1683. (A
sketch.) p. 18. Renwick's Visit to the Death-bed of Peden,
February, 1686. p. 200.
WATSON, JEAN L.
Life and Times of Rev. A. Peden and James Renwick. Glasgow.
[1881.] 8vo.
CARSLAW, REV. WILLIAM H., D.D., Helensburgh.
The Life and Times of James Renwick. . . . Edinburgh.
1893. 8vo.
Heroes of the Covenant — James Renwick. [With illustra-
tions from photographs by the Rev. Thomas Kidd, M.A.,
Moniaive.] Paisley. 1900. pp. 111.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. 211
RENWICK, REV. JAMES, M.A. (contd.).
AIRD, MARION PAUL.
Heart Histories.
Has interesting references to scenes and incidents in the
life of James Benwick.
ALLAN, ROBERT, of Kilbarchan.
The Covenanter's Lament: A Song of the Covenant. In " The
Book of Scottish Song," edited by Alexander Whitelaw.
p. 109.
Contains the line: — " There's nae Renwick now, lassie."
RIDDEL, ROBERT, of Glenriddel.
An Account of the Ancient Lordship of Galloway. 4to. 1787.
Collection of Music. 1787. Price, 4s.
A. J. Wighton Coll, Dundee Public Library.
Waly, Waly, A Favourite Old Scots Song, with much
Approved of Alterations by Robert Riddell, Esq. of Glen-
riddell. Price, 6d. [Words and Music.] N.D., 4to., pp. 2.
Dear Bard, to ride this day is vain. In " Works of Robert
Burns," ed. W. Scott Douglas, 1877. II., 199.
ARCH^EOLOGIA : Society of Antiquaries of London.
1789, Vol. IX., An Account of the Ancient Lordship of Gallo-
way, from the earliest period to the year 1455, when it was
annexed to the Crown of Scotland, p. 49. Remarks on
the title Thane and Abthane. p. 329. (See also " Archse-
ologia Scotica," I., 185, 1792.)
1792, Vol. X., Account of the Ancient Modes of Fortification
in Scotland, p. 99. Observations on Vitrified Fortifica-
tions in Galloway, p. 147. Various Pieces of Antiquity.
p. 478.
1794, Vol. XI., Some Account of a Symbol of Ancient Investi-
ture in Scotland, p. 45. Account of a Brass Vessel found
near Dumfries, in Scotland, 1790. p. 105. Notices of
Fonts in Scotland, p. 106.
Legendary Fragments : The Bedesman on Nidsyde ; Ye mort
o' Lauch. [Illustration on title by Captain Grose.]
London. 1790. 4to. pp. 16.
A Dissertation upon the Ancient Carved Stone Monuments in
Scotland, with a particular Account of one in Dumfries-
shire, by Robert Riddell of Glenriddell, Esq. [With plate,
after Grose, of ancient obelisk. . . . upon the banks of
the Nith, near Thornhill, in Nithsdale.] In " The Memoirs
of the Lit. and Phil. Society of Manchester." IV., 131.
212 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
EIDDEL, ROBEHT, of Glenriddel (contd.).
An Antiquity cut in Ivory. In " The Gentleman's Magazine,"
November, 1792. LXIL, 981.
A Collection of Scotch, Galwegian, and Border Tunes. . . .
Price, 7s. Edinburgh. 1794.
A. J. Wighton Coll, Dundee Public Library, several
Pieces by R. R.
Notes on Scottish Song by Robert Burns . . . with addi-
tions by R. R. and others, ed. by J. C. Dick. 8vo. Lon-
don. 1908.
MS. A Collection of Scottish Antiquities selected by R. R.
In at least eleven volumes whereof, II. -IV., VI. -IX., and
XI., ranging from 1786 to 1791, are in the Library of the
Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. Copiously illustrated
by original drawings and prints, some by and after Cap-
tain Grose and Alexander Reid. Vol. VII., includes " A
Tour in Nithsdale, 1787," by R. R., in three parts, with an
appendix; " An Excursion by Doctor Clapperton, M.D., to
Lough Urr, 1787; also " An Old Scottish Ballad called The
Bedesman on Nidsyde." Vol. VIII. contains " A Journal
of a Tour in Scotland in 1789, made by Captain Grose and
Captain Riddell; and in Vol. XI. is " A Collection of Old
Scottish Ballads " generally known as Glenriddell's Ballad
MS. Folio.
MS. The Antiquities and Topography of Nithsdale by Robert
Riddell. [With drawings of views, buildings, and antiqui-
ties.] Folio.
In the Library of the Society of Antiquaries of London.
MS. [Ten Letters addressed to George Paton, Edinburgh,
1787 and after. Paton's Letters in Advocate's Library.]
MS. The Statistical Account of Scotland, 1791-1799. With
MS. notes by R. R. Volume II. missing.
In the possession of H. S. Gladstone, Esq. of Capenoch.
BRIGHT, HENRY A.
Some Account of the Glenriddell MSS. of Burns's Poems,
with several Poems never before published. (Printed for
private circulation.) Liverpool. 1874. Sm. 4to.
IRVINE, JAMES.
Notice of Robert Riddell of Glenriddell, Esq., and of some of
his manuscripts and books. In " Proc. of the Soc. of Ant. of
Scotland." 1868. Vol. VI., p. 451.
BIBLIOGRAPHY. 213
RIDDEL, ROBERT, of Glenriddel (contd.).
RIDLON, G. T.
History of the Ancient Ryedales and their descendants in
Normandy, Great Britain, Ireland, and America, 860 to
1864, comprising the Genealogy and Biography of the
Families of Riddell, Riddle, Ridlon, Ridley, etc. Manchester.
N.H. 1884.
SHAW, JAMES.
Moniaive. In " A Country Schoolmaster, James Shaw." ed.
by Robert Wallace. Edinburgh. 1899. p. 37.
SIMPSON, REV. RICHARD, B.D., Dunscore.
A Contrast in Pre-Historic Forts near Dunscore. In " Trans.
D. and G. N. H. and A. Soc." 1901.
SMITH, REV. WALTER C., D.D.
Borland Hall. Glasgow and London. 1874. pp. 252.
A poem written in Glencairn and full of local colour.
SMITH, WILLIAM, Banker, Moniaive.
Notes of a Short American Tour. Dumfries. 1873. pp. 82.
TELFER, REV. JOHN, Glencairn Free Church.
Your Own Salvation, Philip 11, 12. pp. 16. 4* by 3*.
The Coming Kingdom of God. London, pp. x., 134. N.D.
TODD, REV. ALEXANDER.
Brief Memorials of the Rev. Alexander Todd, Missionary of
the Free Church, Madras, and latterly minister of the
Presbyterian Church, Hampden, New Zealand. For private
circulation. Edinburgh. 1888. pp. 188.
TROTTER, ROBERT.
Derwentwater : Or the Adherants of King James. Edinburgh.
1825.
An Appendix contains genealogical notices of the Corsons
of Dalwhat, the Cunninghams, Smiths, Barbours,
M'Millans, M'Gachens, and Crichtons.
WILSON, REV. MR [J.], of Tynron.
Appendix, No. VII. [Answers to queries.] In (l General View
of Agriculture in the County of Dumfries," by Dr Singer,
1812. p. 335.
WILSON, J. T., M.B.(Edin.), Professor of Anatomy, University of
Sydney.
Innervation of Axillary Muscles in Man, 1888 and 1889;
Variation in Nerve-Supply, Abnormal Distribution of
Nerve, 1889. Rep. from the Jour, of Anat. and Physio.
Series of Varieties in Human Anatomy. 1892,
214 THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
WILSON, J. T., M.B.(Edin.) (contd.).
On the Closure of the Central Canal of the Spinal Cord in
the Foetal Lamb. 1892.
On the Myology of Notoryctes Typhlops, with comparative
notes. [Numerous plates.] pp. 74. 1893.
Observations upon the Development and Succession of the
Teeth in Perameles, together with a Contribution to the
Discussion of the Homologies of the Teeth in Marsupial
Animals. Rep. from The Quart. Jour, of Micros. Sci. 1896.
Observations on Ornithorhynchus. Proc. of the Linn. Soc. of
N. S. W. 1894.
Notes on the Innervation of the Musculus Sternalis. Rep.
from the Interna. Med. Jour, of Australasia. 1897.
Presidential Addresses, 1898 and 1899. On the Skeleton of
the Snout ... of the Mammary Foetus of Monotremes.
1900 and 1902. From the Proc. of the Lin. Soc. of N. S. W.
A new system of obtaining directing-marks in microscopical
sections for purposes of reconstruction by wax-plate
modelling. 1900.
Ideals in Medical Education. Rep. from the Intercol. Med.
Jour, of Australasia. Melbourne. 1901. pp. 27.
Observations on the Development of Ornithorhynchus. By J.
T. Wilson, M.B., and J. P. Hill, D.Sc. From the Proc.
of the Royal Soc. 1903 and 1907.
Two cases of fourth molar teeth in the skulls of an Australian
aboriginal and a New Caledonian. 1905. Anatomy of the
Calamus Region in the Human Bulb; Fate of the " Taenia
Clino-Orbitalis " (Gaupp). Parts I. and II. 1906. From
the Jour, of Anat. and Physiol.
The Historical Development of the Problem of the Circulation
of the Blood. 1906. pp. 11.
Observations on Tooth-Development in Ornithorhynchus. By
J. T. Wilson and J. P. Hill. Rep. from The Quar. Jour.
of Micros. Sci. 1907.
215
INDEX.
Agriculture, 2-3, 132-5, 137-40,
170.
Amusements, 144, 172-3.
Angling, 2.
Animals, extinct, 11, 18.
— existing, 25 179-85.
Antiquities, 10-1, 18-30.
Archery, 25-6.
Area of parish, 1.
Ayr Street, 53, 117, 158-9.
Bad brass, 81-2.
Balmaclellan, 1, 19, 55, 62.
Basket-making, 136.
Beggar Raw, 158, 159-60.
Bennet, William, 116-7, 197-8.
Bibliography, 197-214.
Birds, 1, 11, 180-4.
Birth-feast, 145.
Black, Rev. William, 5, 157,
198.
Blackader, Rev. John, 112,
156, 165.
— Lieut. -Colonel John, 95,
112-3, 177, 198.
— Adam, at the Village
Cross, 156-7.
" Bonnie Annie Laurie," 101,
106-8, 112, 128, 175.
— marriage, 101, 106.
— will, 108.
— resting-place, 107-8.
— original version of song,
107.
"Borland Hall," 7, 166.
Borrowman, Rev. Patrick,
46, 51-3, 165, 198.
Boston, Rev. Thomas, 165.
Boundaries, parish, 1.
Bow-Butts of Ingleston, 25-6.
Bowling, Carpet, 173.
Bowling Green, 173.
Bridges, 161.
" Broose, riding for the," 145.
Brown, Rev. John, 198.
Brougham, Lord, at Moniaive,
164.
Bruce, King Robert the, 130-1.
Buccleuch, Duke of, 47, 158.
Burgh of Barony, Moniaive as,
149-55.
Burns, Robert, connection with
Glencairn, 127-31.
- friendly relations with
Earl of Glencairn, 131.
— local subject for drama,
129-30.
— quoted, 127, 128, 129, 131,
143, 144.
— referred to, 75, 101, 114,
115, 172, 198-9.
— and parish libraries, 80.
Cairn river, 2, 5-6, 107-8.
Cairns, 1, 10, 28.
Caitloch, 4, 64, 65, 103, 162,
165.
- Cave, 3-4.
Camden, 7.
Camps, 10, 22.
- Castlehill, 23-4.
— Snade, 22-3.
Candle-making, 136.
" Carlyle, Jupiter," 81.
- Thomas, 166.
Castlefairn, 2, 38, 55, 85-6,
162.
Cattle, Ayrshire, 137-8.
- Galloway, 2, 138.
- Droving of, 134-5.
Causeway, 158-9.
Chapel, site of St. Cuthbert's,
38.
Chapel Street, 158-9.
Characters, village, 167-8.
Charles I., 149,
216
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRK.
Charms, use of, 145.
Charter, Moniaive, 149-52.
— Translation of, 152-5.
Choral Society, 173.
Christianity, introduction of,
38.
Church bell, 47-8. 79-80.
- collections, 74-6, 81-2.
— discipline, 72, 76-7.
— finance, 37, 40-2, 44, 47,
73-82.
Churchyard, Glencairn, 49,
60-62, 105, 107, 114.
— Tynron, 57-8.
Claverhouse, 56-7, 101.
Clergy, Catholic, 40-2.
Clerk, Alexander, 114-5, 199.
Climate, 3, 176.
Cloan, The, 11, 24, 26-7, 43,
101, 162.
Clothing, 79, 140, 141-2.
Clubs, 172-3.
Coal, 3, 79.
Cockburn, Lord, visit of, 163-4.
Common, 160-1.
Communions, 75, 80, 142.
Conventicles, 54, 67-69.
Coopering, 136.
"Course, The," 160-1.
Covenanters, 54-71.
— general list of, 63-65.
— Bennoch, James, 59-60.
— Edgar, Robert, 59-62.
— Grierson, Robert, 59-62.
— M'Cubin, Alexander, 64-65,
70-71.
— M'Ewan, Samuel, 65, 70.
- M'Michael, Daniel, 65, 70.
— Mitchell, Robert, 59, 62.
— Renwick, James, 62-63,
65-70, 71.
- Smith, William, 57-8.
Cowgate, 158, 160.
Craigdarroch, 2, 5, 13, 28, 30,
85-6, 92-5, 96-9, 100-3, 106,
108, 110, 131, 148.
Craigengillan Coach, 162-3.
Crawfordton, 1, 3, 13, 26,
27-8, 32, 34, 40, 58, 134,
138, 139.
Crichton, family of, 110,
149-50, 153, 155-6.
— Andrew, 112.
— Ninian, 80.
Cricket Club, 173.
Cross, Market, 151, 154, 156-7,
159.
Cuningham, family of, 6, 43,
103-5, 131, 202.
Curling Clubs, 172-3.
Customs, 144-5.
Dairy farming, 138.
Dairy, Galloway, 1, 39, 88.
— Rising at, 55.
Dalwhat, 2, 4, 5-6, 10-1, 23, 32,
35, 36, 85, 94, 95, 130, 148,
159, 161, 162, 167.
Dalziel, John, 122-3.
Danyelstoun, family of, 103,
110.
David I., 39-40.
Deans, Mrs Charlotte, 164-5.
Disruption, The, of 1843, 51-2,
116, 119.
Doon of Shancastle, 27.
Drainage, 177.
Dress, 140, 141-2.
Dressmakers, 142.
Drinking in Ale-houses, 72.
Dumfries, 55-6, 64, 90, 95-8,
149-55, 162-3.
Dunlop, Rev. Walter, 165.
Dunreggan, 4, 5, 14, 33, 35,
40, 52, 148, 158, 160.
Dunscore, 1, 19, 80, 81, 127,
134, 135, 163.
Earls of Glencairn, 6, 43,
103-5, 131.
Earthwork, at Birkshaw, 24.
— at Loch Urr, 21.
Ecclesiastical History —
— pre-Reformation, 39-43.
— post-Reformation, 44-82,
83.
Edinburgh, 63, 68-9, 149, 155.
Education, 83-91.
INDEX.
217
Edward II., 40.
Embroidery, muslin, 135.
Fairs, 154, 159.
Families, notable, 100-11.
Farming, early, 132-5.
- modern, 1. 2-3, 137-40.
Fauna, 179-85.
Fences, 133.
Fergussons of Craigdarroch,
32-3, 74, 92-9, 100-3, 110,
127-129, 155, 161, 164, 172,
200.
Fergusson, William, of Cait-
loch, 64, 103.
- Robert, 64, 101.
Ferns, 192-3.
Festivals, 144, 159.
Field - preaching. See Con-
venticles.
Fines, for Nonconformity, 54,
64.
- imposed by Kirk-Session,
76-7.
"First Book of Discipline,"
83.
Fisher, James, 113-4, 201.
Flax, cultivation of, 133.
— manufacture of, 133-4.
Flood, high, 76.
Flora, 186-93.
Folklore, 72, 131, 144-5.
Food, 73, 79, 95, 140, 142, 144.
Forest, early, 4.
Forts, 10, 22, 27.
France, Rev. W., 118, 201-2.
Free Church of Scotland, Glen-
cairn, 51-3, 124.
- School, 52-3, 91.
Freemason Lodge, 172.
Fuel, 3, 79, 143-4.
Funerals, 73, 145.
Furniture, 141.
Gaelic, 1, 11.
Gas, introduced, 169.
Geology, 3.
Gibson, family of, 64, 74, 77,
94, 109-10, 200.
Glasgow, See of, 39-42.
Glencairn, Castle of, 6-7.
— Church of, 6, 38-50, 54-5,
72-82, 83-4, 85-6, 107.
- Earls of. See Cuningham.
- name, 1.
Glens, 2, 4, 5-6, 7-9, 11, 14,
38-9, 85-6, 148, 161-3, 167.
Golf Club, 173.
Gordon, Rev. Robert, D.D.,
115-6, 177, 203.
Graham, John, of Claverhouse.
56.
Grains, Road, 160.
Grierson, Rev. Alex., 119-20,
204.
— Bursary, 88-90.
— Museum, 28-9.
— Rev. William, 3, 46, 139.
204.
Grose, the antiquary, 25, 156,
204.
" Harn "(coarse linen) shirts,
134.
Health, of parish, 3, 169.
Hearse, 79, 81.
Heather, limited occurrence
of, 1.
Heritors, 77, 83-8, 90.
High Street. 113, 158-9.
Hills, 1-2, 7-9, 11-16, 23-4, 27,
?8, 43, 148-9, 162, 167.
Hogig, James, 165.
Horticultural Society, 172.
Houses, 140, 141, 169, 176-7.
Husbandry. See Agriculture.
Hyslop, John, 120-1, 204.
Industries, past, 132-7.
- present, 137-40.
Infirmary, collections for, 76.
Inglis, Rev. John, 117-8.
Ingleston, Bow-butts of, 25.
- martyrs of, 59-60.
Interest on loans, 78.
218
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Jackmen, 6.
James IV., visits Glencairn,
43.
Jarbruck, Mote of, 25-6.
Jougs, 157.
Keir, 1, 94, 110.
Kettle Entry, 158, 160.
Kings, 39-40, 43, 71, 75, 92,
103, 104. 106, 130-1,
149-50, 152.
Kirkland, 86, 116, 165.
Kirk-Session Records, 45, 48,
72-82, 83, 90, 157-8, 173.
Kirk Treasurer's Book, 48,
73-82.
Knights Templars, in Glen-
cairn, 17, 40.
Knitting, 135.
Knox, John, 83.
Laurie, family of, 7, 57-8, 64,
74, 77, 86, 88, 97, 105-6,
108-9, 172. 204-5.
— Bonnie Annie, 106-8, 112,
128, 175.
Language, 10-17.
Lead, 3.
Leases, 139.
Liberality, 74-6, 77-8, 78-9.
Libraries, 80, 171.
Lighting, 143, 169.
Lime, use of, 132-3.
Lint. See Flax.
Living, mode of, 140, 141-3,
169.
Loch Urr, crannog and earth-
work, 19-22.
Locomotion, means of, 162-4,
175-6.
Market Cross, Moniaive, 151,
154, 156-7.
— Sanquhar, 68.
Marriages, 44, 72-3, 76-7, 145.
Maps, 4-5, 6 (footnote), 12-7,
— — . '— I ,
Martyr Stones, 57-63.
Mazzini, Joseph, quoted, 178.
Mill Raw, 158-9.
Minerals, 3.
Ministers, references to, 23-4,
25, 44-7, 51-3, 54, 64, 71,
83, 87, 94-5, 99, 139-40,
164, 165-6, 170, 198,
200-10, 212-3.
Money-lending, 78.
Moniaive, meaning of name,
16, 148-9.
— changes in spelling, 157-8.
- made a Burgh of Barony,
149-55.
- in 1790, 156.
— Fairs, 151, 154, 159.
Monteith, Rev. John, 23-4, 25,
46-7, 164, 170, 206.
Moodie, Rev. W., 45, 99.
Mortcloth, use of, 78.
Motes, 24-6, 162.
Mutual Improvement Society,
171.
Nail-making, 136.
Names, changes in, 1, 5, 10-17,
148-9, 157-60.
Nursing Association, 173.
Old Age Pensions, 175.
Organs, Church, 49, 52.
Outlook, 176-8.
Owners of land, 5-7, 100-11.
Mackill, Robert, 52, 124.
M'Gachen, family of, 6, 94,
110, 130.
M'Turk, Robert, 205-6.
Manses, 50, 51, 52.
Parish, aspect of, to-day, 1-4,
7-9, 170-8.
Parish Council, 170-1.
Park, Rev. John, D.D., 206.
Paterson, James, R.S.A., xii.,
166-7, 206.
INDEX.
219
Paton, Walter, 121-2.
Peat, occurrence of, 143.
— cutting of, as a fuel,
143-4.
Peden, Rev. Alexander, 68.
Penpont, 27, 43, 94, 127, 164,
175.
— Presbytery of, 83, 89-90,
92, 100.
— Dumfries and, United
Free Church Presbytery
of, 53.
People, improved condition of,
140.
Pigs, rearing of, 138.
Place-names, 10-17, 157-8.
Poetry, 7-8, 9, 71, 107, 114,
115, 120-1, 127, 131, 143,
144, 166.
Pollock, Rev. John, 207.
Pont, Timothy, 4, 12-7.
Poor, casual, 88.
- parish, 73, 77-9.
Popes, 39, 43.
Population, 4-5, 169-70.
Post Office, 173-5.
Poultry, 138-9.
Prince Charlie, 97-9.
Progress, social and religious,
4, 10-1, 18-9, 38-9, 43, 44,
71, 80, 83-91, 132, 138-40,
141-7, 149-55, 157, 158-60,
161-3, 169, 171-8.
Proverbs and sayings, 135,
145-7, 160, 167-8.
Public Buildings, 47, 50, 53,
173.
Public Park, 173.
Querns, 29, 30.
Races, early, 10-11, 149.
Race-muir, 57, 160-1.
Rae, Rev. Peter, 3, 27, 92-3,
161.
Railway, 163, 175-6.
Rattan Raw, 159.
Reader, in Glencairn Kirk, 44.
Reading Room, 171.
Rebels at the horn, 64, 100,
105.
Rebellions, 1715 and 1745,
92-6, 96-9, 101.
Recreations, 144-5, 172-3.
Red Deer, 18, 30.
Reformation, The Scottish,
43-4, 47, 104.
Reformers, 43, 104.
Relics, portable, 28-30, 149.
Rental of parish, 31-7, 170.
Renwick, Rev. James, 62-3,
65-70, 71, 112, 177.
— traces of birthplace, 65,
160.
— parentage, 65-66.
— as a student, 66.
— his resolve to join the
Covenanters, 66.
- visit to Holland, 66.
— return to Scotland, 66.
— beginning of ministry,
66-67.
— declared an outlaw, 67.
— extent and hardships of
his labours, 67-68.
— affixes Declaration to San-
quhar Cross, 68.
— attitude to toleration, 68.
— arrest and trial, 69.
— terms of indictment, 69.
— condemnation, 69.
— refusal to recant, 69.
— last words and execution,
69-70.
— place of burial, 62.
— monument to, 62-63, 177.
- Bibliography, 207-10.
Riddell (or Riddel), family of,
97, 98, 110, 127-9, 211-2.
Riddles, as a pastime, 144.
" Riding for the broose," 145.
Roadways, changes in, 50, 65,
161-2.
" Rob Macquechan's Elshon,"
129-30.
220
THE ANNALS OF GLENCAIRN.
Romans, presence of the, 10,
22, 23-4, 149.
Rorison, family of, 110, 155-6.
Bullion Green, battle of, 55.
Sabbath-breaking, 72.
St. Cuthbert, 38-9, 49.
Scenery, 1-2, 4, 7-9, 148-9,
163-4, 166, 175.
School Board, 88-9.
Schools and Schoolmasters,
52.-3, 83-8, 90-1.
Scleners or Schlenders, The,
16, 65, 158.
Selgovse, 10.
Shancastle, Boon of, 27.
Shaw, James, 115, 212.
Sheep, 2-3, 137.
Sibbald MSS., 5, 157.
Simpson, Rev. Richard, 22,
212.
Slate quarrying, 136.
Smith, Rev. Walter C., D.D.,
7-8, 149, 166, 212.
Societies, 171-2, 173.
Springs, mineral, 3.
Statistical Accounts, 7, 19, 84,
87, 139-40.
Stenters, The, 158, 160.
Stone, al Ingleston, 59.
— at " Minnyhive Moss," 57.
— in wall of Free Church,
52.
— in Churchyard wall, 49.
Streams, 2, 4, 5-8, 18, 22, 50,
76, 85-6, 107-8, 130, 148-9,
161, 164.
Street names, 158-60.
Temperance Society, 173.
Tent, Communion, 80.
Thatching, 136, 169.
Thornfiill, 50, 163-4, 175.
Throughgate, The, 158-9.
Todd, Rev. Alexander, 123-4
213.
Tokens, Church, 48, 50-1.
Towers, fortified, 27-8.
Trees. See Woods.
— List of finest, 194-6.
Turner, Sir James, 55, 101.
Tynron, 1, 57-8, 72, 94, 95, 116,
127, 162, 172.
United Presbyterian Church,
50-1, 53, 162.
Urn, cinerary, 1.
Vagrancy, 73, 88.
Valuation of parish, 31-7, 170
Views, finest, 2, 4, 50, 107-8
148-9, 163-4, 175, 177.
Visitors, distinguished, 38-9
43, 127, 130-1, 163-6.
Wages, 139-40, 142.
Walker, Col. Sir George G.
124-5, 173.
Water-channelling, 159, 169.
Waters. See Streams.
Water supply, 169.
Waulk Mill, 1, 160.
Weaving, 136-7, 160.
Wells, 169.
"Whistle, The," 101, 127-8.
" White ground," 1-2.
Wild Ox, 18. *"•
"Willie brewed a peck o
maut," 129.
Witchcraft, 72, 145.
Woods, 2, 4, 8, 163-4.
Wordsworth, quoted, 9.
Worthies, village, 165, 167-8.
Yew trees, large, 196.
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