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GLENCAIRN 

(DUMFRIESSHIRE) 


The  Annals  of  an  Inland  Parish. 


BY 

JOHN  CORRIE. 


Frontispiece  by  JAMES  PATERSON,  R.S.A. 


DUMFRIES:  THOS.  HUNTER  &  Co. 
1910. 


tto 
Sbe  flbemorg  of 

/IDotber, 


Who  early  instilled  into  me  a  love  of  Glencairn 
and  all  that  concerns  its  history,  this  volume  is 
affectionately  dedicated. 


"  If  I  had  my  way  I  would  have,  as  part  of  the 
teaching  in  every  country  school,  a  little  book  giving 
the  story  of  the  parish,  mentioning  the  main  changes, 
any  historical  facts  connected  with  it,  and  the  names  of 
any  distinguished  natives.  The  people  in  our  country 
parishes  know  nothing  of  the  local  history,  and  it  is 
not  good  that  they  should  be  ignorant." 

British  Weekly. 


PREFACE. 

IN  the  following  pages  I  have  attempted  to  sketch  briefly  the 
history  of  Glencairn  from  the   earliest  times.       During 
recent  years,  and  especially  since  the  advent  of  the  rail- 
way, enquiries  for  such  a  book  have  been  frequent.     It  is  true 
that  an  excellent  little  history  of  the  parish  was  published  in 
1876  by  the  late  Rev.  John  Monteith,  but  the  book  has  long  been 
out  of  print,  and  it  is  now  difficult  to  procure  copies  even  at  a 
premium.     In  these  circumstances  I  have  attempted  a  task  that 
I  would  willingly  have  left  for  abler  hands  to  overtake. 

I  am  free  to  confess  that  a  considerable  impetus  to  the 
writing  of  the  history  was  imparted  by  the  discovery  of  two 
Church  Treasurer's  Books  in  MS.  containing  much  curious 
information  illustrative  of  the  social  and  religious  life  of  the 
parish  about  the  close  of  the  eighteenth,  and  the  beginning  of 
the  nineteenth  century.  Some  of  the  items,  it  seemed  to  me, 
were  of  more  than  merely  local  interest,  and  through  the  cour- 
tesy of  Glencairn  Kirk- Session  I  have  now  the  privilege  of 
making  the  contents  of  the  little  volumes,  together  with  other 
extracts  from  the  Records,  generally  accessible. 

To  the  Rev.  R.  G.  Philip,  M.A.,  United  Free  Church 
Manse,  Glencairn,  and  to  Mr  G.  W.  Shirley,  Librarian,  Ewart 
Public  Library,  Dumfries,  my  thanks  are  gratefully  offered  for 
much  valuable  assistance  and  advice.  In  dealing  with  the 
Place-names  many  helpful  suggestions  have  been  received  from 
the  Rev.  James  B.  Johnston,  B.D.,  Falkirk,  and  Mr  George 
Macdonald,  Station  House,  Moniaive.  Mr  James  Paterson, 
R.S.A.,  has  conferred  a  signal  honour  upon  my  book  by  his 
picture  of  "Glencairn,"  which  has  been  so  beautifully  repro- 
duced in  photogravure  by  Messrs  T.  &  R.  Annan  &  Co.,  of 
Glasgow.  My  acknowledgments  are  likewise  due  to  the  Rev. 


viii.  PREFACE. 

Sir  Emilius  Laurie,  Bart,  of  Maxwelton,  for  permission  to  repro- 
duce the  valuable  and  interesting  paintings  of  Mr  Alexander 
Fergusson  and  "  Bonnie  Annie  Laurie " ;  to  Mr  William 
Macmath,  Edinburgh,  for  the  picture  of  Moniaive  in  1790;  to 
Messrs  Valentine  &  Sons,  Dundee,  for  two  of  the  photographs; 
and  to  Messrs  J.  Maxwell  &  Son,  Dumfries,  for  the  drawing  of 
the  Craigdarroch  Whistle. 

I  desire  to  express  my  thanks  also  to  a  number  of  other 
friends  svho,  although  not  expressly  named  here,  have  none  the 
less  helped  to  make  my  work  more  complete. 

Notwithstanding  the  limitations  and  imperfections  of  the 
book,  I  venture  to  hope  that  it  will  be  received  as  a  not  unworthy 
contribution  to  the  history  of  a  parish  that  has  long  been  famous 
alike  for  its  natural  beauty  and  for  its  rich  historic  interest. 

J.  C. 

Burnbank, 
Moniaive, 

December,  1910. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

PREFACE  ..          ...         ...   vii. 

CHAP.  I.     NAME  AND  TOPOGRAPHY. 

Origin  of  Name — Extent  of  Parish — Hills — Streams — 
Valleys — Mineral  springs — Geological  formation—Woods 
— Font's  Map — Distribution  of  population  about  1610 — 
General  description — The  Glens  in  Borland  Hall  ...  1 

CHAP.  II.     EARLY  TIMES. 

Traces  of  occupancy — Importance  of  Place-names  as  an 
index  of  early  conditions — The  more  interesting  Place- 
names  with  their  probable  meanings  10 

CHAP.  III.     ANTIQUITIES. 

Animal  remains — Stone  implements  and  weapons — 
Crannog  and  Earthwork  at  Loch  Urr — Camps — Motes 
— Other  defensive  works — Cairns  and  burial  mounds — 
Portable  relics  ...  18 

CHAP.  IV.     VALUATION.         31 

(1)  Ancient— (2)  Modern. 

CHAP.  V.     THE  CHURCH  BEFORE  THE  REFORMATION. 

Saint  Cuthbert — Site  of  Saint  Cuthbert's  Chapel — First 
mention  of  Glencairn — The  Knights  Templars — Pre- 
Reformation  Clergy  in  Glencairn — Religious  condition 
of  the  people— Shrines  and  pilgrimages — Visit  of  James 
IV.  to  Glencairn  on  his  way  to  the  Shrine  of  Whithorn 
— Dawn  of  the  Reformation  ...  ...  ...  ...  38 

CHAP.  VI.     THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE  REFORMATION. 

Parish  Ministers  subsequent  to  the  Reformation — Old 
Parish  Church  of  Glencairn — The  Churchyard— The 
present  Church — The  United  Presbyterian  Church  and 
its  Ministers — The  Free  Church  of  Scotland  and  its 
Ministers — The  United  Free  Church  of  Scotland  ...  44 


x.  CONTENTS. 

CHAP.  VII.     THE  COVENANTERS. 

Origin  of  Covenanting  Struggle — Ejected  Ministers — 
The  Rising  at  Dairy — Turner  brought  a  prisoner  from 
Dumfries  by  way  of  Glencairn — Rullion  Green — Claver- 
house  in  the  South  of  Scotland — Glencairn  martyrs — 
James  Renwick — Other  Glencairn  martyrs  and  sufferers 
— The  Revolution  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  54 

CHAP.  VIII.     KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS. 

Far-reaching  duties  of  the  Kirk-Session — Curious  ex- 
tracts from  Records,  1G93  onwards — Quaint  and  interest- 
ing details  from  Church  Treasurer's  Books,  1783-98 
and  1808-19,  as  to  (1)  Collections  ;  (2)  Fines,  proclama- 
tions, &c.  ;  (3)  Interest  on  loans,  &c. ;  (4)  Expenditure  : 
Care  of  the  poor  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  72 

CHAP.  IX.     EDUCATION. 

John  Knox  and  Education — Number  and  distribution 
of  Schools  in  Glencairn — The  Education  Act  of  1872 — 
The  Grierson  Glencairn  Bursary — Schoolmasters  from 
1694  83 

CHAP.  X.     THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745. 

Important  part  played  by  the  men  of  Glencairn  in  first 
Rebellion — The  march  to  Stirling — Garrison  duty  under 
Lieut.-Col.  Blackader — Collapse  of  first  Rebellion — The 
Rebellion  of  1745 — Local  measures  of  defence — Action 
by  the  Presbytery — Fine  of  £2000  exacted  from  the 
county  town — Handsome  contributions  from  Sir  Robert 
Laurie  of  Maxwelton  and  others — Close  of  the  Rebellion  92 

CHAP.  XL     HISTORIC  FAMILIES. 

The  Fergusson  Family — The  Cuningtafn  Family — The 
Laurie  Family — The  Gibson  Family — -other  Families  ...  100 

CHAP.  XII.     FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS. 

James  Renwick — Robert  Cutlar  Fergusson — "  Bonnie 
Annie  Laurie" — Lieut.-Col.  Blackader — James  Fisher 
— Alexander  Clerk — Rev.  Robert  Gordon,  D.D. — 
William  Bennet — Rev.  John  Inglis,  D.D. — Rev.  William 
France — Rev.  Alexander  Grierson,  A.M. — John  Hyslop 


CONTENTS.  xi. 

— Walter  Paton,  J.P.,  D.L.— John  Dalziel— Rev.  Alex- 
ander Todd — Robert  Mackill — References  to  Col.  Sir 
George  G.  Walker,  and  others 112 

CHAP.  XIII.     BURNS  and  GLENCAIRN. 

The  Poet's  visits  as  an  exciseman — "  The  Whistle  " — 
"Willie  brewed  a  peck  o'  maut" — A  Glencairn  subject 
for  a  projected  drama,  Rob  Macque.chan's  Elshon — 
Legend  of  King  Robert  the  Bruce  and  Dalwhat — 
"  Address  to  the  Deil " — "  Lament  for  James,  Earl  of 
Glencairn"  127 

CHAP.  XIV.     INDUSTRIES,  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 

Agriculture  the  principal  industry — Primitive  methods  of 
cultivation  about  1800 — Impetus  given  to  improvement 
by  Highland  and  Agricultural  Society — The  growing  of 
flax,  and  its  manufacture — Lint  wells  and  lint  mills — 
The  droving  of  cattle — Minor  industries :  Muslin  em- 
broidery or  "  Flowering  "—Hand-knitting — Weaving — 
Coopering — Thatching  — Basket-making — Candle-mak  - 
ing  —  Nail-making  —  Modern  Agriculture  —  Favourite 
breeds  of  sheep  and  cattle — Staple  crops — Modes  of 
husbandry — Leases — Wages —  Improved  condition  of 
workers  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  ...  132 

CHAP.  XV.  GLENCAIRN  DURING  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY. 
Social  condition  of  the  people — Houses — Furniture — 
Dress  — Food  —  Light — Fuel — Amusements,  Customs, 
and  Beliefs — Proverbs  and  sayings  ...  ...  ...  141 

CHAP.  XVI.     MONIAIVE. 

Situation  of  the  village — Meaning  of  name — Erection 
into  a  free  Burgh  of  Barony — Copy  of  Charter  dated 
1636 — Translation  of  Charter — Moniaive  in  1790 — 
Changes  in  the  name — Streets,  and  their  changes — 
Bridges — Roadways — The  "  Craigengillan  Coach  " — Im- 
pressions of  Lord  Cockburn — Story  of  Lord  Brougham 
— Other  famous  visitors  and  residents — Village  worthies  148 

CHAP.  XVII.     THE  PRESENT  TIME. 

Aspect  of  Glencairn  to-day — Improvements  in  Housing 


xii.  CONTENTS. 

— Lighting — Water  supply,  &c. — Rural  depopulation — 
Decrease  in  Glencairn,  and  its  causes — Rental  of  Parish 
— Parish  Council — Libraries — Ploughing  Society — Horti- 
cultural Society — Lodge  of  Oddfellows — Recreative 
Clubs — Other  institutions — The  Post  Office — The  Cairn 
Valley  Railway— The  Outlook 169 

APPENDICES. 

A.  The  Vertebrate  Fauna  of  Glencairn 179 

B.  Flora,  with  List  of  finest  Trees          186 

C.  Bibliography 197 

INDEX..,  ...  ...  .  215 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Glencairn — From  a  painting  by  James   Paterson, 

R.S.A Frontispiece. 

PAGE. 
Map  of  Parish  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...Facing       1 

Stone  Hammers  18 

Tripod  Ewer 30 

Church  Tokens  48  and  50 

Martyr  Stones  in  Glencairn  Churchyard        ...         ...         ...     60 

Alexander  Fergusson  of   Craigdarroch   and  Anna 

Laurie  ("Bonnie  Annie  Laurie")       ...  ..  Facing  106 

The  Craigdarroch  Whistle       128 

"  Carle  "  Candlestick,  19th  century 147 

Moniaive  in  1790         ...         ...         ...         ...         ...Facing  156 

The  Jougs  from  Moniaive  Cross         ...         ...         ...         ...  168 

Moniaive  from  Dunreggan  Hill          ...         ...         ...  Facing  169 


CHAPTER  I.— NAME  AND  TOPOGRAPHY. 

THE  name  Glencairn — Celtic,  Gleann-carn,  glen  of  the  cairn 
or  heap  of  stones — may  almost  be  regarded  as  explain- 
ing itself.  Where  the  cairn  that  gave  the  parish  its 
name  was  situated  is  no  longer  known  with  certainty.  Large 
cairns  formerly  existed  at  Auchencheyne,  at  Crawfordton,  and 
at  Waulkmill,  near  Moniaive,  but  practically  all  traces  of  these 
have  now  disappeared.  When  the  Waulkmill  cairn  was  de- 
molished, an  urn  of  the  usual  cinerary  type  was  found  in  the 
interior.  So  far  as  we  are  aware,  not  even  a  fragment  of  this 
interesting  relic  can  be  traced,  but  the  known  discovery  of  such 
an  object  is  valuable,  for  it  lends  probability  to  the  assumption 
that  the  large  and  important  cairn  at  Waulkmill  was  the  source 
from  which  the  parish  derived  its  name. 

Glencairn  lies  on  the  western  border  of  Dumfriesshire,  close 
to  the  high  mountain  range  that  forms  a  natural  boundary 
between  that  county  and  Kirkcudbrightshire.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  by  the  parish  of  Tynron,  on  the  east  by  Keir,  on  the 
south  by  Dunscore  and  Balmaclellan,  and  on  the  west  by  Dairy. 

The  extreme  length  of  the  parish  is*  fourteen  and  a  half 
miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  a  little  more  than  five  miles. 
The  superficial  area,  according  to  information  courteously 
furnished  by  the  Director-General  of  the  Ordnance  Surveys,  is 
30,239-050  acres.  Of  this,  by  far  the  larger  portion  is  pastoral, 
only  about  one-fifth  being  arable.  The  hills,  with  the  exception 
of  a  somewhat  rugged  heath-clad  range  that  stretches  along 
the  southern  border,  and  forms  a  congenial  haunt  of  the  red 
grouse,  are  green  and  undulating.  Owing  probably  to  their 
bleached  appearance  in  winter  these  grassy  slopes  are  dis- 


2  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

tinguished  locally  by  the  name  "white  ground."  In  the  north 
and  north-west  especially,  considerable  altitudes  are  attained. 
Thus,  Colt  Hill  in  the  north-west  is  1961  feet,  and  Benbrack 
in  the  west  1900  feet.  Bogrie  on  the  south  rises  to  1416  feet, 
and  Lagganpark  on  the  east  to  1171  feet.  From  all  these 
eminences  extensive  and  pleasing  prospects  are  obtained. 

The  main  valley  is  traversed  by  the  river  Cairn.  This 
stream  is  formed  out  of  three  hill  streams,  named  respectively 
the  Dalwhat  Water,  the  Craigdarroch  Water,  and  the  Castle- 
fairn  Water,  which  unite  a  short  distance  below  the  village 
of  Moniaive.  All  these  streams  as  well  as  the  Cairn  itself 
are  well-stocked  with  trout,  and  afford  good  sport  to  the 
angler.  The  valley  of  the  Cairn,  although  not  wide,  is  highly 
fertile.  Rich  grass  and  corn  lands  border  on  the  river,  and 
extend  far  up  the  hillsides.  Commodious  farmhouses  and  tidy 
cottages  peep  out  on  every  side,  while  here  and  there  a  stately 
mansion,  embowered  amid  sheltering  woods,  imparts  dignity  to 
the  scene. 

The  narrower  glens  that  open  at  the  head  of  the  main 
valley  are  all  beautiful.  It  is  a  beauty,  however,  that  requires 
to  be  sought.  The  mere  passer-by  would  never  suspect  the 
wealth  of  loveliness  that  lies  hidden  away  amid  these  pastoral 
solitudes.  He  who  would  enjoy  their  charm  to  the  full  must  take 
the  stream  for  his  guide  and  follow  it  in  all  its  windings  to  the 
f^ntain-head  far  up  among  the  hills.  If  this  be  done,  we  can 
promise  him  a  feast  of  beauty  that  will  linger  long  in  the 
memory. 

It  is  in  this  portion  of  the  parish  that  the  finest  sheep-walks 
are  to  be  found.  The  hills,  even  when  they  attain  altitudes  of 
between  one  and  two  thousand  feet,  are  green  from  base  to 
summit,  and  it  is  on  these  sloping  pasture  lands  that  the  Black- 
face and  Cheviot  sheep,  for  which  the  district  is  famous,  are 
reared.  During  the  earlier  portion  of  last  century  large  numbers 
of  black  cattle  were  bred  on  the  same  hills  to  supply  the  English 


NAME  AND  TOPOGRAPHY.  3 

meat  markets,  but  as  the  trade  was  proving  unprofitable  they 
were  supplanted  by  sheep,  which  have  since  maintained  their 
supremacy. 

Mineral  springs  of  some  local  repute  occur  at  several  points 
in  the  parish,  notably,  near  the  sources  of  the  Glenjaan  and 
Dibbin  burns,  at  Old  Crawfordton,  and  at  Billhead  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Moniaive.  The  Rev.  Peter  Rae,  minister  of 
Kirkbride  (1703-27)  and  of  Kirkconnel  (1732-48),  writing  of  the 
Old  Crawfordton  well,  says: — "There  is  a  physick  well  on 
Crawfordton,  about  half-a-mile  from  that  place,  found  to  be 
good  for  several  diseases,  as  for  pains  in  the  stomach,  heart- 
burn, &c."  (Rae  MS.} 

The  climate  is  moist  but  salubrious.  Geologically,  the 
parish  is  composed  almost  entirely  of  Silurian  strata.  Fossils 
have  been  obtained  in  considerable  numbers  from  certain  bands 
of  black  shales,  and  by  means  of  these  it  has  been  found 
possible  to  demonstrate  the  true  order  of  succession  of  the  beds.1 
Traces  of  glacial  action,  in  the  form  of  striated  rock  surfaces  and 
boulder  clay,  abound.  Moraine  heaps  are  likewise  numerous 
along  the  sides  of  the  valleys.  No  traces  of  coal  have  been  found 
in  the  parish,  although  the  black  shales,  already  referred  to, 
would  seem  to  have  been  mistaken  for  members  of  the  Carboni- 
ferous system.  Thus,  the  Rev.  William  Grierson,  when  writing 
his  account  of  the  parish  about  1792,  says: — "Trials  for  coal 
have  been  made  in  several  places  ....  with  a  go^ 
prospect  of  success."  Time,  however,  has  shown  the  "good 
prospect  "  to  be  wholly  illusory. 

About  a  mile  to  the  north  of  Moniaive  there  is  a  curious 
artificial  excavation  known  as  "  Caitloch  Cave."  It  is  supposed 
to  have  been  made  in  search  of  lead,  but  no  record  of  the  opera- 
tions has  come  down  to  us.  The  presence  of  "  jumper  "  marks 

1.  See  Geology  of  Dumfriesshire,  by  Messrs  Peach  &  Home,  in 
The  Flora  of  Dumfriesshire,  by  G.  F.  Scott-Elliot,  M.A.,  F.L.S., 
F.R.G.S.,  pp.  xxvii.  to  xxx vi, 


4  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

proves  that  it  belongs  to  a  period  subsequent  to  the  date  when 
gunpowder  was  introduced  for  blasting  purposes.  As  it  was 
not  till  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century  that  any  very 
active  measures  were  taken  to  encourage  the  search  for  useful 
minerals,  the  excavation  probably  belongs  to  some  part  of  that 
century.  To-day  the  cave  is  chiefly  famous  as  a  reputed  hiding- 
place  of  the  Covenanters.  It  measures  one  hundred  and  four- 
teen feet  in  length,  and  opens  on  the  Dalwhat  stream,  at  a  point 
of  great  natural  beauty,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  east  of 
the  mansion-house  of  Caitloch.  When  nearly  opposite  Caitloch 
the  Dalwhat  Glen  contracts  into  a  narrow  gorge,  and  as  the 
water  frets  and  fumes  in  its  rocky  channel  between  banks 
clothed  with  natural  wood  and  a  profusion  of  ferns,  the  scene  is 
one  of  remarkable  beauty,  and  might  well  engage  the  brush  of 
the  painter  or  the  pen  of  the  poet. 

The  parish  is  well  wooded.  Even  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  when  many  parts  of  Scotland  had  been  all  but  denuded 
of  trees,  Glencairn  would  seem  to  have  retained  considerable 
portions  of  its  early  forests.  Thus,  in  Timothy  Font's  Map  of 
Nythesdail,  supposed  to  have  been  completed  between  1600 
and  1610,  although  not  published  for  nearly  half  a  century 
later,  woods  are  represented  as  occurring  to  the  north  and  west 
and  likewise  to  the  south-east  of  "  Dunrago  "  (Dunreggan). 
Since  Font's  day  large  portions  of  waste  or  of  semi-waste  lands 
Ifcve  been  planted,  and  at  the  present  time  Glencairn  is  one  of 
the  most  richly  wooded  parishes  in  the  south  of  Scotland. 
Many  of  the  individual  trees  are  of  large  growth,  and  as  a 
record  of  these  may  possess  both  a  present  and  a  future  interest, 
a  tabular  list  of  the  more  notable  trees,  with  their  dimensions, 
has  been  printed  as  an  addendum  to  the  Flora.  (See  Appendix 
C.) 

Font's  map  is  not  only  valuable  as  a  guide  to  the  sylvicul- 
tural  condition  of  the  parish  during  the  first  decade  of  the  seven- 
teenth century;  it  also  affords  us  almost  the  only  reliable  in- 


NAME  AND  TOPOGRAPHY.  5 

formation  we  possess  regarding  the  distribution  of  the  popula- 
tion. Altogether  fifty-nine  names  of  places  in  the  parish  are 
given  by  Pont,  and  the  most  of  them,  notwithstanding  changes 
in  spelling,  can  still  be  recognised  without  difficulty.  As  the 
names  themselves  are  of  interest,  we  append  the  full  list, 
arranged,  for  convenience  of  reference,  according  to  the  natural 
divisions  of  the  parish  : — 

1.  MAIN  VALLEY — Dunrago,  Burnfoot,  Mill,  Hill,  English- 

toun,  Blackston,  Larburgh,  Castlehills,  Peiltoun,  Glen- 
kairn  K.,  Shancastel,  Maxweltoun,  Glenkairn  Cast., 
Mains,  Krafurd,  Consford,  Dardarroch. 

2.  DALWHAT  GLEN — Bardonoch,   Barbuy,   Bardannoch  Mill, 

Lagdaw,  Kaitloch,  N.  Kaitloch,  Tarrans,  Dalwhat, 
Schatheir,  Drumlof,  Marwhurn,  Benbuy,  Blarick,  Kon- 
rick,  N.  Dupein,  O.  Dupein,  Marktowyr,  Scklait,  Korbe 
Glenjan,  Kordow. 

3.  CRAIGDARROCH     GLEN — Xrichon,     Dungelstoun,     Kraig- 

darroch,  Celdsyd,  Ballundny,  Nise,  Knokachle,  Kraig- 
lenan,  N.  Stronshelach,  Auchenstrowan,  O.  Stronshelach, 
Loshiningland,  Chapelmark,  O.  Kraigleiran. 

4.  CASTLEFAIRN    GLEN — Halfmarck,     Kirkowbrik,    Bortom, 

Linarklat,  Glencroish,  Kraignesta,  Hil  of  Threerigs, 
Castelfurn. 

A  curious  and  yet  on  the  whole  exact  description  of  Glen- 
cairn,  from  an  account  drawn  up  by  the  Rev.  William  Black, 
A.M.,  minister  of  Closeburn  1647-84,  is  contained  in  the  Sibbald 
MSS.  (Advocates'  Library,  Edinburgh). 

"  This  parish  is  large  and  lyeth  on  both  sides  of  a  little 
river  called  Kairn,  whence  it  hath  its  denomination,  which 
runneth  from  3  several  fountains  in  Galloway,  the  first  on  the 
south  side  called  Castlefairn  Water,  the  second  in  the  middle 
called  Craigdaroch  Water,  upon  the  brink  of  which  stands  the 
House  of  Craigdarroch  Fergusson :  the  third  rivulet  on  the  north 
side  is  called  Dowhat  Water  where  stands  the  dwelling  place  of 


6  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

a  linage  of  the  name  of  M'Gachen  descended  of  one  M'Gachen, 
a  private  standart-bearer  in  the  Bruces  Wars,  and  doth  yet 
continue  in  the  name.  These  3  rivulets  having  run  each  of 
them  severall  miles  do  all  three  meet  in  one  water  at  Moniaive,1 
a  Burgh  of  Barony  having  a  useful  weekly  mercat  and  some 
fairs.  These  three  rivulets  conjoined  make  the  River  Kairn. 
The  parish  by  the  running  of  the  water  running  six  miles  down- 
wards is  divided  into  two  parts,  one  in  each  side,  and  thereafter 
running  on  the  east  part  of  it,  it  divides  Glenkairn  from  Din- 
score,  and  thereafter  running  by  the  parish  of  Holywood,  it 
divides  Nidsdale  from  Galloway  and  continueth  its  course  by  the 
parishes  of  Irongray  and  Teregglis,  in  Galloway,  till  it  come  to 
the  Col  ledge  of  Lincluden,  where  it  falls  in  with  Nith. 

"  A  little  beneath  Moniaive  in  this  parish  stands  the  Church 
of  Glencarne,  situate  at  the  foot  of  a  high  hill  called  the  Dune 
of  Shankcastle,  near  to  which  also  stands  the  Castle  of  Glen- 
carne, anciently  the  dwelling  place  of  the  noble  family  of  the 
Cunigham's,  Earles  of  Glencarne,  who  being  superiour  to  the 
whole  parish,  excepting  a  barony  or  two,  did  divide  the  pro- 
perty amongst  his  Jackmen  for  the  greater  part  of  it,  into  several 
tenements  bearing  the  name  of  the  first  occupants,  which 
denominations,  though  the  lands  now  be  possessed  by  those  of 
other  names,  yet  they  do  still  retain  as  at  first  as  Blackstown, 
Stewartown,  Gilmorestown,  Gordonstown,  Garrickstown,  and 
some  others  more,  and  it  is  probable  that  other  places  had  the 
like  denomination,  though  now  changed.  At  the  Disposition  of 
the  Superiority  of  this  Parish,  the  Earle  of  Glencarne  did 
reserve  the  superiority  of  one  room  called  Nether  Kirkcud- 
bright, which  he  yet  retains,  and  at  the  Disposition  of  his  own 

1.  In  a  map  of  the  shire  of  Dumfries  or  Nithsdale  by  H.  Moll, 
Geographer,  dated  1725,  the  Craigdarroch  and  Dalwhat  streams 
(the  latter  prematurely  wearing  the  name  of  "Kairn")  are  shown 
as  uniting  near  "  Burnfoot,"  while  the  "  C.  Fairne "  runs  apart 
until  nearly  opposite  "  Glencairn,"  or  Kirkland. 


NAME  AND  TOPOGRAPHY.  7 

property  a  little  know  near  the  Castle  of  Glencarne,  which 
castle  with  a  considerable  part  of  the  parish  doth  now  pertain 
to  Robert  Laurie  of  Maxweltoun  Baron  of  Straith,  which  makes 
him  capable  of  electing  and  being  elected  a  Commissioner  for 
the  Parliament." 

Further  references  to  the  topography  of  Glencairn  will  be 
found  in  Camden's  Britannia,  Chalmers's  Caledonia,  Sir  John 
Sinclair's  Statistical  Account  of  Scotland,  and  the  New  Statistical 
Account  of  Scotland.  The  following  idealised  description  of  the 
parish  is  from  the  late  Rev.  Dr  Walter  C.  Smith's  poem  of 
Borland  Hall,  published  in  1874  :— 

"  As  you  come  over  the  hill,  a  little  way  down,  the  road 
Suddenly  sweeps  to  the  right,  and  lo !  a  green  valley  and  broad ; 
Through  it  a  river  runs  swift,  its  water  broken  by  rocks 
And   boulders,    cleaving  its   way   as   by   rapidest   bounds   and 

shocks ; 

Now  with  a  clear  rush  on,  and  now  recoiling  again 
To  wheel  round  the  barrier  huge  it  has  hammered  for  ages  in 

vain, 

Only  dinting  deep  holes  in  its  ribs,  and  chafing  itself  into  foam, 
Then  swirling  away  to  the  bank  to  bite  at  the  softer  loam. 
Yonder  an  old  peel  tower,  hid  in  clumps  of  the  ivy  green, 
Perched  on  its  crag  like  an  eyrie,  and  there  the  whole  valley  is 

seen; 

Not  an  approach  south  or  north,  east  or  west,  but  the  watch- 
man's eye 

Would  catch  the  sheen  of  the  spears,  and  the  banners  would 
well  descry, 

And  sound  the  alarm  in  time  for  hoisting  the  drawbridge  high. 

***»**» 

Far  at  the  end  of  the  valley,  open  three  narrow  glens, 

Each  with  its  own  marked  features,  charactered  clear  as  men's, 

Each  with  its  own  fair  water  finding  its  fitting  way, 


8  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Rough  o'er  the  rocky  channel,  or  still  by  the  broomy  brae. 

That  to  the  left  is  rugged ;  one  side  a  bare  bleak  hill 

With  a  cataract,  rugged,  of  stones  down-rushing  as  if  they  would 

fill 

The  glen  with  grey  desolation ;  and  half  way  down  a  thorn 
Seems  as  it  stayed  the  torrent,  and  was  bent  with  the  weight  and 

worn. 

Only  that  thorn  on  the  hillside  grapples  the  stones  with  its  root, 
Only  some  scraggy  hazel  bushes  straggle  about  its  foot, 
Only  the  curlew  wails  there,  and  the  grouse-cock  crows  at  morn  : 
Only  the  goat  and  the  coney  poise  on  those  stony  heaps, 
Only  the  parsley  fern  along  their  barren  spaces  creeps. 
And  far  below  in  the  hollow  the  stream  goes  plunging  on 
From  the  rocky  steep  to  the  rocky  pool,   and  the  rumbling 

boulder  stone. 

The  middle  glen  is  wooded ;  there  the  ancient  lords  of  the  land, 
Leaving  their  high-pitched  eyrie,  built  a  stately  house  and  grand 
Right  under  the  Murrough-crag,  pine-clad  up  to  the  top, 
And  they  belted  the  woods  all  round  them,  and  bade  the  high- 
ways stop, 
And  they  made  them  a  goodly  forest,  stocked  with  the  wild  red 

deer, 
And  they  drew  the  stream  into  fishponds,  and  swept  with  their 

nets  the  mere. 

#  *•**### 

Fair  is  the  glen  to  the  right,  in  its  pastoral  beauty  still, 
Green  in  its  holms  and  hollows,  green  to  the  top  of  each  hill ; 
A  line  of  alder  and  drooping  birch  marks  where  its  river  flows, 
But  in  its  bare  upper  reaches  only  the  juniper  grows ; 
The  stream  conies  out  of  a  tarn  on  the  hill,  whose  oozy  edge 
Is  fringed  with  a  ring  of  lilies  and  an  outer  ring  of  sedge; 
And  there  is  no  road  beyond  that,  only  a  mountain  high, 
And  a  cairn  of  stones  where  the  withered  bones  of  the  three 

brave  brothers  lie." 


NAME  AND  TOPOGRAPHY.  9 

Truly,  Glencairn  is  a  land  of  romance  and  of  beauty,  a 
land  to  reverence  and  to  love.  Its  green  pastoral  hills  and 
wooded  valleys  may  lack  some  of  the  grander  aspects  of  Scottish 
scenery,  yet  no  fitter  example  could  be  found  of  the  power  of 
Nature,  as  Wordsworth  puts  it, 

"  To  impress 

With  quietness  and  beauty,  and  so  feed 
With  lofty  thoughts." 

Surely  there  must  be  few  parishes  that  awaken  in  the  heart 
of  their  children  a  more  tender  or  a  more  enduring  attachment 
to  the  soil  that  gave  them  birth,  and  the  scenes  that  kindled  the 
imagination  of  their  youth. 


CHAPTER   II.— EARLY  TIMES. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  early  history  of  Glencairn  is  extremely 
meagre.  That  the  district  was  early  occupied  by  a  rude  and 
warlike  race  is  evidenced  by  the  numerous  cairns,  camps,  and 
forts  that  lie  scattered  over  our  hills  and  valleys ;  but  who  the 
first  settlers  were,  and  by  whom  they  were  supplanted — for  there 
seems  to  have  been  a  succession  of  peoples — we  cannot  say 
with  certainty.  We  know,  however,  that  at  the  period  of  the 
Roman  invasion  of  Scotland,  a  Celtic  people  called  the  Selgovae 
was  established  in  the  South,  and  it  is  to  the  place-names  left 
by  this  people  that  we  owe  nearly  all  the  knowledge  we  possess 
of  our  parish  as  it  existed  in  early  times. 

The  predominance  of  Celtic  place-names  in  Glencairn  is 
very  marked,  not  more  than  one-tenth  being  of  Norse  or  Saxon 
extraction.  This  probably  implies  that  the  hold  of  the  invader 
was  less  firm  in  Glencairn  than  it  appears  to  have  been  in  some 
of  the  more  accessible  portions  of  Dumfriesshire  to  the  south 
and  east.  The  four  commonest  Celtic  prefixes  in  the  parish 
are — Glen,  Craig,  Sal,  and  Knock.  These  are  closely  followed 
by  Auchen  and  Dal,  while  Bar,  Ben,  Mar,  and  Minnie  or  Mony 
are  all  frequent. 

Some  of  these  prefixes  are  full  of  interest.  Thus,  the 
Auchens  and  the  Dais  tell  us  where  the  cultivated  lands  of  the 
parish  were  originally  situated.  In  Glencairn  we  have  three 
Auchens  and  three  Dais,  namely — Auchencheyne,  Auchenfedrig, 
Auchenstroan,  Dalwhat,  Dalmacallan,  and  Daltammie;  all  of 
them  places,  it  may  be  observed,  situated  at  moderate  eleva- 
tions, such  as  would  be  adapted  to  cultivation  at  a  time  when  the 
land  was  covered,  for  the  most  part,  with  swamp  and  natural 


EARLY  TIMES.  11 

forest.  Bal  from  baile,  a  town,  farm,  hamlet,  or  home,  is 
found  in  such  names  as  Bellyboucht,  Balinnie,  Baltonne,  Bal- 
macane,  etc.,  and  indicates  the  situation  of  early  dwellings. 
Coming  to  the  prefix  Glen,  we  meet  with  an  interesting  word  in 
Glenwhisk.  This  is  just  the  Gaelic  gleann,  a  small  valley,  and 
uisge,  water;  a  name  as  truly  descriptive  to-day  as  when  it  was 
first  bestowed,  perhaps  two  thousand  years  ago.  Some  place- 
names  testify  to  the  presence  of  certain  forms  of  animal  life  now 
extinct  in  the  district.  Thus,  Knockbrock  is  the  badger's 
knoll,  and  Dalwhat  the  field  of  the  wild  cat.  Among  other 
names  derived  from  the  animal  kingdom  we  have  Craignee,  the 
craig  of  the  deer,  and  Knockchouk,  the  knoll  of  the  hawk. 
Calmonel  is  probably  reminiscent  of  St  Colmanela,  friend  of 
Columba,  and  Lochanbennet  of  St.  Benedict.  The  name 
Cloan,  which  we  now  find  applied  to  a  hill  in  Glencairn,  is  the 
Gaelic  cluain,  a  meadow.  It  affords  a  curious  example  of  the 
transference  of  a  name  to  an  object  of  an  entirely  different 
character,  for  it  has  nothing  to  do  with  the  hill  near  Shancastle, 
but  belongs  to  the  meadow  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 

We  shall  have  occasion  to  refer  to  other  place-names  later 
on.  Meanwhile  we  pass  to  a  particular  account  of  the  more 
outstanding  names,  including  a  number  that  are  now  little 
known,  but  that  add  to  the  record  an  interest  of  'their  own. 

ALPHABETICAL  LIST  OF  THE  MORE  INTERESTING  PLACE-NAMES 
OF  GLENCAIRN,  WITH  SUGGESTIONS  AS  TO  THEIR  MEANING. 

ABBREVIATIONS. 

A.S.,  Anglo-Saxon.     G.,  Gaelic.     O.N.,  Old  Norse. 
Sc.,  Scots.     W.,  Welsh. 

AUCHENCHEYNE. — 1511,  Auchincane ;  1549,  Auchenyean;  1710, 
Auchenchenne ;  1725,  Auchenchean;  1856,  Auchenchain. 
Probably  G.,  achadh-an-chain  (e),  field  of  the  rent  or 
tribute. 


12  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

AUCHENFEDDRICK. — 1671,   Aucheiifedrig.       Probably,  field  of 

Patrick;  G.,  achadh,  a  field,  and  Phadruig,  Patrick. 
AUCHENSTROAN. — Pont,   1610,  Auchenstrowan ;  G.,  achadh,  a 

field,    and    struan,    streamlet  =  The    field    of    the    little 

stream. 
BALINNIE. — G.,   baile,   hamlet   or  dwelling,    and   G.,   linne,   a 

pool. 
BALMAKANE. — G.,  baile,  hamlet  or  dwelling,   +  personal  name 

=  Dwelling  of  the  M'Kanes. 
BALTONNE. — G.,  baile-duin,  hamlet  on  the  hill. 
BARBUIE.— G.,  barr-buidhe,  yellow  height  or  extremity. 
BARDANNOCH. — 1593,     Bardannoch;     1610,     Barnedannoche ; 

1610,  Pont,  Bardonoch;  1720,  Barndennoch.     G.,  barr, 

a  height  or  hill.     Suffix  doubtful. 
BELLYBOUCHT. — G.,  baile-bochd,  poor  town. 
BELWINNOC. — Perh.    G.,    baile,   hamlet  or   dwelling  +  personal 

name  =  hamlet  of  St.  Winnoc. 
BENBRACK. — G.,  beinn,  hill  or  mountain +  G.,  breac,  speckled 

=  The  speckled  hill. 

BENBUIE. — G.,  beinn-buidhe,  The  yellow  hill. 
BLAIROCH. — Perh.  fr.  G.,  liar,  a  plain,  a  place  of  peat  mosses. 
BLAWPLAIN. — An  example  of  tautology.     G.,  liar,  a  plain. 
BORLAND. — Board  or  Mensal  land — a  form  of  tenure. 
BRECONSIDE. — Prob.  hybrid;  W.,  brycin,  a  brake  or  forest. 
CAITLOCH. — 1559,    Cadhelaucht;    1587,    Catloche;     Camden, 

circa,    1600,   Castloch;    Pont,    1610,    Kaitloch;    1624, 

Cadzelauch.       The  earliest  spelling  suggests  G.,  cadhal- 

ach,  place  of  sleep. 
CALMONEL. — 1671,  Camanell.       Prob.  derived  from  St.  Col- 

manela. 
CALSIDE. — 1687,    Caulsyde.       Possibly    from    G.    cul,    back, 

therefore,  back-lying  place. 
CAMBUSCAIRN. — G.,  camus,  a  bend,  a  crook,  sig.  bend  or  crook 

of  the  Cairn  (river). 


EARLY  TIMES.  13 

CORSMOLLOCH. — W.,    cors,    bog,    fen  +  G.    mullach,    the    top, 

summit,  or,  alt.,  mollach,  rough,  shaggy. 
CASTLEFAIRN. — G.,  caisteal,  a  castle,  a  tower,  and  fearna,  the 

alder  tree  =  The  castle  or  fortified  tower  by  the  alder 

trees. 

CLOAN. — G.,  cluain,  a  meadow. 
CONRICK. — 1506,  Conranche;  1580,  Conrach;  1587,  Comrik; 

Pont.,   1610,  Konrick;    1671,  Conrike;    1722,  Conrig. 

Doubtful.     Perh.  G.  comar-ach,  place  of  confluence. 
CORANBAE. — 1727,     Coranbay.       G.,    coran-beith,     bend     or 

crescent  of  the  birches. 
CORRIEDOW. — G.,    coire,    circular   hollow,    a   mountain    dell, 

and  dubh,  dark. 
CRAGGANOCH. — G.,   creagan,   rocks,   sig.    place    full    of    little 

craigs. 
CRAIGDARROCH. — G.,   creag,   a   rock,   a  crag,   and  darach,   an 

oak  =  The  rock  of  the  oak  wood. 
CRAIGENBEAST. — G.,  creag-an-biast,  the  serpent's  crag,  or  the 

monster's  crag. 
CRAIGLEARAN. — 1621,  Craiglerian;  1725,  Moll's  Map,  Kraig- 

leiran.     Prob.    G.    creag  +  ladhar    [pron.    lear    in    the 

North]  with  the  diminutive  an  =  crag  of  the  little  fork. 
CRAIGNEE. — Craig  of  the  deer.       G.,  creag-dn-fiadh  (fh  lost 

by  aspiration). 
CRAIGNESTON. — Possibly  G.  creag-an-easain,  crag  of  the  little 

waterfall. 
CRAWFORDTON. — Crawford's   town   or   enclosure,    from   Saxon 

tun,   an   enclosure,   a   dwelling,   a  termination   frequent 

in  the  parish. 
CRECHAN. — A  little  boundary,  or  boundaries,  fr.  G.  crioch,  a 

boundary. 
CROSSFORD. — Corsford  (17th  century).     Perh.  G.  cors,  a  bog, 

a  f en  +  ford. 


14  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

CUBBOCKS. — Bent    or    hollowed    place.       G.,    cubach,    bent, 

hollowed. 
DALMACALLAN. — G.,    dail,    a    field  +  personal    name  =  field    of 

Macallan. 

,  DALTAMMIE. — Field  of  James;  G.,  fSeamais. 
DALWHAT. — Field  or  dale  of  the  wild  cat.     G.,  dail,  a  field, 

and  chat,  a  cat. 
DARDARROCH. — Oak  grove.     G.,  doire,  a  grove,  and  darach, 

an  oak. 
DARNANGILL. — 1580,   Darnagillie.      Grove   of  the   church   or 

churchyard.     G.,  doire,  a  grove,  and  G.  cille,  church  or 

churchyard. 
DIBBIN.— 1506,  Divane;  1579,  Dovane;  1610;  Pont,  and  1725, 

Moll's  Map,  Dupein.     G.,  dubh-bheinn,  dark  hill. 
DRUMLOFF. — Perhaps  G.  druim,  a  ridge,  and  lobhtach,  having 

lofts  or  storeys. 

DUNGALSTON. — Personal  name  +  ton,  place  or  dwelling. 
DUNREGGAN. — 1581,    Drumreggane.     G.,    druim   chreagan   (ch 

lost  by  aspiration),   the  craggy  ridge,   or  ridge  of  the 

crags. 
FLEUCHLARG. — Wet  hill-side.     G.,   fleuch,   wet,    and   learg,   a 

hill,  a  sloping  hill. 
GAPS  MILL.— 1511,  Colliegawpoch ;  1776,  Capach  Mill;  1827, 

Gillygappoch  Mill.       G.,   coille  ceapach,   wood  full  of 

tree  stumps. 
GIRHARROW. — 1856,    Gairharrow.       Doubtful.       Perhaps    G., 

garbh-airidh,  rough  sheiling  or  hill  pasture. 
GLENCROSH. — 1610,  Font's  Map,  Glenkroish.       The  glen  of 

the  cross,  fr.  G.,  gleann,  a  glen,  and  crois,  a  cross. 
GLENGAIR. — The  short  glen.       G.,  gleann-gearr. 
GLENJAAN. — Probably  the  deep  glen.     G.,  gleann-domhain. 
GLENRIDDLE. — From  G.,  gleann,  a  glen,  and  Riddle,  an  ancient 

family  name. 


EARLY  TIMES.  15 

GLENWHISK. — G.,  gleann,  a  glen,  and  uisge,  water. 

GOTAL  (BURN).— Prob.  fr.  the  old  verb  gothele  (1290,  Oxford 

Diet.},  sig.  a  low  mumbling  noise. 
GRAYNES  OR  GRAINS. — Prob.  fr.  O.N.,  greni,  a  branch;    sig. 

branches  of  the  valley. 

INGLESTON. — Homestead  of  Inglis,  or  of  the  Englishmen. 
JARBRUCK. — Jargbruch    (14th    century).       Prob.   rough  bank, 

edge,  or  brim;  G.,  garbhbruach. 
KILNKNOW. — Old  name  of  Hastings   Hall.     A   kiln   formerly 

existed  in  the  neighbourhood. 

KIRKCUDBRIGHT. — Church  of  St.  Cuthbert.       A.  S.  Cudberct. 
KIRKLAND. — Lands  pertaining  to  the  Church. 
KNOCKAUCHLEY. — 1579,     Knockhachill ;     1608,     Knockauchy; 

Pont,  1610,  Knockachle.       May  be  G.,  cnoc,  a  knoll, 

and  eachlaich,  of  the  groom,  or  eachleighe,  of  the  farrier. 
KNOCKBROCK. — The   badger's    knoll.       G.,    cnoc,  a  hillock,  a 

knoll,  and  broc,  a  badger. 
KNOCKCHOUK. — The    hawk's    knoll.       G.,  cnoc,  a  knoll,  and 

seabhac  [shouk],  a  hawk. 
KNOCKMALLIE. — Prob.    G.,  cnoc,  a  hillock   or   knoll,  and  G., 

ntaol,  bald,  bare. 
KNOCKSTRONY. — G.,   cnoc,  hillock,  and  sron,  nose,   or  sruan, 

stream. 
LAGDOW. — The  black  hollow.       G.,  lag,  a  hollow,  and  dubh, 

dark  or  black. 
LAGGANPARK. — Park  or  field  of  the  little  hollow.     G.  laggan, 

diminutive  form  of  lag,  a  hollow. 

LAIRMORE. — G.,  learg,  a  plain,  or  side  of  a  'hill,  and  mor,  big. 
LOCHANBENNET. — Lochlet  of  St.  Benedict. 
MARWHIRN. — Plain  of  the  cairn.     G.  machair-a-chuirn. 
MARGARDY. — Perh.  plain  of  the  garden  or  of  the  gardener,  fr. 

G.  magh,  a  plain,  and  garadh,  a  garden. 
MAXWELTON. — Personal  name  +  /0«  (A.S.),  a  dwelling. 


16  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

«% 
MINNYGRILE  OR  MoNYGRiLE. — 1511,  Minnigryll ;  1549,  Mynneis- 

geill ;  1671,  Minnygrill.     Prefix  G.,  monadh,  a  moor,  or 

moine,  a  moss;  suffix  doubtful,  perh.  G.  griomail  (m  lost 

by  aspiration),  grim,  rugged,  or  barren. 
MOATIE. — Prob.  fr.  G.  mod,  a  court,  an  assembly. 
MONIAIVE. — Many  variants  (see  chap,  xvi.)     Prob.  G.  monadh- 

abh,  moor  of  the  water  or  stream. 
MULLWHANNY. — G.,  me  all ',  lump,  a  hill  or  eminence,  and  uaine, 

green,  or  bhan,  white. 
NEISS  OR  NIESS. — 1610,  Pont,  Nise.     A.S.,  nesse;  Sc.,  nease, 

nose. 
NYPES    (THE). — Little    rocky    hills.     G.,   cnap,    knob,    knot, 

button. 

PEELTON. — G.,  peel,  a  stronghold. 

PENTOOT. — Head  of  the  rising  ground.     Welsh,  penn-towt. 
POWRAN. — 1580,    Powrane.       Accent   not    known.       May    be 

Pictish,  grazing  land  (Johnston),  or  G.,  poll  (Sc.  pow), 

a  pool,  and  rinn,  a  point.     Less  probably  G.,  raineach, 

fern. 
SCLENERS  OR  SCHLENDERS. — Shingle  on  the  face  of  a  declivity. 

Sc.,  S dithers.     (Jamieson's  Diet.). 
SHANCASTLE. — Old  castle.     G.,  scan,  old,  and  caisteal,  a  castle, 

a  stone  fort. 

SHAW. — A  thicket,  a  wood.     A.S.,  scaga. 
SHIELD YKES. — Probably  from  Sc.,  shieling,  shelter. 
SHILLINGLAND. — Derived  from  old  valuation. 
SHINWALIE. — Old    township    or    dwelling.     G.,  sean,  old,  and 

bhaile,  dwelling. 

SNADE. — Probably  G.,  snathad,  a  needle. 
STRAITH. — G.,  srath,  a  valley. 
STRANSHALLOCH. — Pont,     1610,     Stronshelach ;     1635,     Stron- 

shalloch.     G.,  sron,  nose  or  point,  and  seileach,  willow 

=  point  of  the  willows.     Perh.  sron,  point,  and  sealladh, 

prospect. 


EARLY  TIMES.  17 

- 

TEMPLAND. — Lands  formerly  owned  by  the  Knights  Templars. 
TERERRAN.— 1511,    Trorarane;    1610,    Pont,    Tarrans;    1671, 

Terraren;  1747,  Rae  MS.,  Tarroran;  Terorane.     Prefix 

prob.  G.  tir,  land;  suffix  doubtful,  perh.  derived  from 

St.  Ciaran. 

THREERIGGS. — Sc.,  rig,  ridge. 
TWOMERKLAND. — Derived  from  old  valuation. 
URR. — Pre-Celtic  word  sig.  water. 
WAULKMILL. — Sc.,  wauk,  to  full  or  dress  cloth. 
WAAS. — Prob.  A.S.,  waes,  a  moist  meadow,  hence  applied  to 

places  situated  on  low  lands. 

It  must,  unfortunately,  be  admitted,  that  through  changes 
in  spelling  and  other  causes,  many  of  the  meanings  assigned  to 
these  old  place-names  are  more  or  less  conjectural.  There  are 
names,  however,  that  have  undergone  few  or  no  changes,  and 
it  is  a  never-failing  source  of  interest  to  observe  the  suitability 
of  these  to  the  places  upon  which,  in  the  far  distant  past,  they 
were  bestowed. 


........ 


CHAPTER  III.— ANTIQUITIES. 

Apart  from  place-names  there  is  very  little  we  are  able 
to  glean  concerning  the  early  conditions  of  life  in  the  parish. 
No  doubt  the  Wild  Ox,  the  Bear,  the  Badger,  the  Boar,  the 
Wolf,  the  Red  Deer,  and  the  Beaver  abounded  in  Glencairn  as 
in  other  parts  of  Britain;  but  out  of  the  seven  animals  named 
it  is  of  two  only  that  undoubted  remains  have  been  found.  In 
1886  a  horn  of  the  Wild  Ox  (Bos  primigenius)  was  found 
embedded  in  a  peat  moss  not  far  from  the  north-western  border 
of  the  parish,1  and  in  1908  an  antler  of  a  large  species  of  Red 
Deer  was  exposed  in  the  bed  of  the  Craigdarroch  stream. 
Various  weapons  and  implements  of  stone  have  likewise  been 
discovered  in  the  parish.  Such  remains  are  of  the  greatest 
possible  interest,  for  they  tell  us  of  a  time  when  our  parish  was 


STONE  HAMMERS  FOUND  IN  GLENCAIRN, 

inhabited  by  a  people  who  lived  a  nomadic  life,  and  depended 
for  sustenance  on  their  skill  with  bow  and  spear.  It  must, 
however,  be  confessed  that  the  number  of  such  relics  actually 
found  in  the  parish  is  by  no  means  large.  An  annotated  list 
of  what  may  be  called  portable  relics  will  be  found  at  the  end 

1.  The  Specimen  is  now  in  the  possession  of  Mr  Richard  Hodgson, 
Beverley. 


ANTIQUITIES.  19 

of  the  present  chapter.  Meanwhile  we  propose  to  describe 
somewhat  fully  the  more  important  remains  of  human  occu- 
pancy that  are  still  to  be  met  with  in  situ  within  the  parish 
boundaries. 

CRANNOG  AT  LOCH  URR. 

Insulation  on  a  natural  or  an  artificial  island  in  a  lake 
seems  to  have  been  the  favourite  means  of  defence  in  the  days 
when  people  had  not  learned  to  enclose  themselves  within  stone 
walls.  Down  to  between  forty  and  fifty  years  ago  very  little 
was  known  about  crannogs  or  lake-dwellings  in  Scotland,  but 
since  that  time  a  mass  of  information  has  accumulated  which 
enables  us  to  form  an  idea,  not  only  of  the  mode  of  their  con- 
struction, but  also  of  the  degree  of  civilisation  that  had  been 
attained  at  the  period  when  they  were  in  use.  In  view  of  the 
importance  that  attaches  to  such  structures,  it  is  of  interest  to 
know  that  the  remains  of  a  lake-dwelling  are  to  be  found  at 
Loch  Urr,  close  to  the  southern  border  of  the  parish.  During 
the  autumn  of  1902  the  writer  had  the  honour  of  being  asso- 
ciated with  Mr  James  Barbour,  F.S.A.  (Scot.),  in  conducting  a 
series  of  investigations  into  the  character  of  the  Loch  Urr  lake- 
dwelling,  on  behalf  of  the  Dumfriesshire  and  Galloway  Natural 
History  and  Antiquarian  Society.  The  results,  as  embodied 
in  a  report  to  the  Society  (see  Transactions,  1902-3,  pp.  242-6), 
may  be  summarised  as  follows: — 

Loch  Urr,  according  to  the  O.S.  Map,  is  623-9  feet 
above  sea-level.  Its  area  is  137-765  acres,  of  which  33*741 
are  in  Balmaclellan,  Kirkcudbrightshire;  33-125  in  Glencairn, 
Dumfriesshire;  and  50-899  in  Dunscore,  Dumfriesshire.  The 
place  that  it  fills  in  history  is  not  large.  It  is  mentioned  in 
Chalmers's  Caledonia  (Vol.  II.,  p.  217),  where  the  author  lays 
Symson's  MS.  Account  of  Galloway,  1684,  under  contribution; 
in  the  Old  and  also  in  the  New  Statistical  Account;  in  various 


20  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLEN  CAIRN. 

Gazetteers,    notably    Fullarton's    (Vol.    II.,  p.    789);    and    in 
Munro's  Ancient  Scottish  Lake  Dwellings.1 

So  far  as  ascertained  by  the  investigations  the  remains  at 
Loch  Urr  consist  of — 

(1)  A  gangway  of  stone   114   feet  in   length,   entirely   sub- 

merged, and  running  in  an  oblique  line  from  the  shore  to 
a  small  island  in  the  loch. 

(2)  An  island,  66  feet  in  length  by  33  feet  in  breadth,  on  the 

line  of  the  gangway. 

(3)  A  second  gangway  of  stone  56  feet  in  length,  partially 

submerged,    and   communicating    with    a    second    and 
larger  island. 

(4)  The  principal  island,  180  feet  by  64  feet,  with  ruins  of  an 

encircling  wall  and  four  walled  dwellings. 
The  excavations  were  almost  entirely  confined  to  the  larger 
island.  Two  workmen,  acting  under  directions,  opened  a 
trench  about  four  feet  wide  along  the  entire  length  of  the 
island.  Portions  of  the  walls  that  mark  the  four  buildings 
erected  on  the  north  side  of  the  interior  area  were  exposed  to 
the  foundation.  All  the  walls  gave  clear  evidence  of  care  in 
construction,  but  no  traces  of  mortar  were  visible.  The 
amount  of  debris  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  walls  was 
not  large,  and  it  is  therefore  probable  that  they  had  not  been 
carried  to  any  great  height,  perhaps  not  more  than  three  feet 
at  the  most.  The  thickness  is  about  two  feet  three  inches. 
All  the  material  lying  within  one  of  the  enclosures  was  removed, 
without  revealing,  however,  any  features  of  special  interest. 
An  outer  wall,  built  of  dry  stone  without  mortar,  like  the  inner 
enclosures  already  mentioned,  would  appear  to  have  encircled 
the  island.  A  fragment  of  this  wall,  still  standing,  measures 

1.  In  addition  to  these  references,  an  account  of  An  Excursion  to 
Lough  Urr  in  1787  by  Doctor  Clapperton,  M.D.,  is  contained  in  the 
Riddell  Coll.  of  MSS.,  preserved  in  the  Library  of  the  Society  of 
Antiquaries,  Edinburgh. 


ANTIQUITIES.  21 

four  feet  in  height  and  six  feet  in  thickness.  Near  the  entrance 
to  the  island  additional  stone-work,  in  the  form  of  what  may 
have  been  rude  buttresses,  is  found.  This  part  of  the  defences 
seems  to  have  been  carefully  constructed,  and  must  have  formed 
a  formidable  obstacle  to  an  enemy  attacking  the  stronghold  from 
the  direction  of  the  gangway. 

EARTHWORK. 

In  addition  to  the  island  remains,  there  is  an  earthwork  on 
the  mainland  to  the  south.  It  consists  of  a  well-defined  ditch 
and  rampart  thrown  across  the  neck  of  a  peninsula,  and  appears 
to  have  been  a  work  of  importance.  The  length  of  the  ram- 
part may  be  stated  approximately  at  five  hundred  feet.  On 
the  west,  where  it  is  most  entire,  it  rises  above  the  present  level 
of  the  trench  in  front  to  a  height  of  between  eleven  and  twelve 
feet.  In  the  rear  of  the  rampart  a  rough  stone  pavement  ten 
feet  in  width  is  found.  As  the  stones  composing  this  pavement 
lie  near  the  surface,  they  have  the  effect  of  altering  the  char- 
acter of  the  vegetation,  and  in  this  way  the  pavement  can  be 
traced  along  the  greater  part  of  the  line  of  rampart.  The 
trench  in  front  of  the  rampart  is  silted  up  to  a  depth  of  nearly 
six  feet.  This  fact  is  important,  for  it  proves  almost  conclu- 
sively that  the  point  of  land  which  we  now  know  as  a  peninsula 
was  at  one  time  an  island,  hence  in  all  probability  the  name 
"  White  Isle,"  which  it  still  retains.  There  can  be  little  doubt, 
we  think,  that  an  intimate  connection  existed  between  the  earth- 
work and  the  lake-dwelling.  The  two  are  little  more  than 
three  hundred  yards  apart,  and  we  know  that  fortifications  on 
land,  adjacent  to  lake-dwellings,  are  a  more  or  less  constant 
feature  of  such  remains  elsewhere.  The  relics  found  during 
the  progress  of  the  excavations  were  very  few.  It  is  therefore 
difficult  to  fix  with  certainty  the  period  to  which  the  Loch  Urr 
Crannog  belongs.  Dr  Anderson,  of  the  National  Museum  of 
Antiquities,  Edinburgh,  founding  upon  certain  fragments  of 


22  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

pottery,  is  disposed  to  think  it  may  have  been  near  the  close  of 
the  Roman  occupation  (410  A.D.),  or  perhaps  a  little  later.  In 
view  of  this  opinion,  it  is  interesting  to  recall  a  legend,  still 
current  in  the  district,  that  here  a  Roman  cohort  was  sur- 
rounded and  starved  into  submission  by  a  body  of  early  Britons. 
It  need  only  be  said  that  no  one  familiar  with  the  ground  will 
be  disposed  to  doubt  the  feasibility  of  the  exploit. 

CAMPS. 

Two  "camps"  are  marked  on  the  1-inch  O.S.  Map  as 
occurring  in  Glencairn,  namely,  "  Snade  Camp"  and  "Castle 
Hill  Camp."  As  the  area  of  both  entrenchments  is  small, 
some  might  prefer  to  call  them  "forts."  It  will,  however,  be 
convenient  to  adhere  to  the  1-inch  Survey  Map. 

CAMP  AT  SNADE. 

This  circular,  or  nearly  circular,  entrenchment  lies  on  the 
western  bank  of  the  river  Cairn,  about  three  hundred  yards 
above  the  ford  that  crosses  from  Cambuscairn  to  Snade.  It 
presents  several  features  of  structural  interest,  and  has  been 
described  as  "  one  of  the  most  perfect  examples  of  a  British 
camp  to  be  found  in  the  district."  The  Rev.  Richard  Simp- 
son, B.D.,  Dunscore,  in  reporting  upon  the  camp  to  the  "Dum- 
friesshire and  Galloway  Natural  History  and  Antiquarian 
Society  ' '  says : — "  Here  no  natural  points  of  strength  have 
been  seized  and  skilfully  adapted  for  defence,  but  everything 
has  been  laboriously  constructed  by  the  hand  of  man.  .  . 
We  found  the  form  of  the  fort  to  be  elliptical,  or  perhaps  it 
would  be  more  correct  to  say  that  it  is  an  irregular  circle.  The 
longer  diameter — 259  feet  over  all — runs  nearly  north  and 
south;  and  the  shorter  diameter — 253  feet — nearly  east  and 
west.  .  .  .  The  outer  trench  is  both  wide  and  deep.  It 
varies  in  width  from  32  feet  on  the  eastern  side  to  43  feet  on 


ANTIQUITIES.  23 

the  west — the  narrowest  part  being  nearest  the  river,  and  the 
widest  where  the  ground  rises  slightly  above  and  overlooks  the 
entrenchment.  Other  measurements  gave  38  and  39  feet  on 
the  north  and  on  the  south.  On  these  sides  the  depth  does 
not  exceed  a  couple  of  feet,  but  the  ground  was  too  soft  to 
make  sure.  On  the  west  we  measured  10  feet  10  inches  in 
depth,  not  at  the  deepest  part.  On  the  east  it  appears  to  be 
deeper  still.  .  .  .  The  rampart  within  this  outer  trench, 
with  its  curved  upper  surface,  measures  16  feet  across  on  the 
north,  15  feet  on  the  west,  14  feet  on  the  south,  and  13  feet  on 
the  east.  It  varies  considerably  in  height,  being  loftiest  on 
the  east  and  west.  Within  this  rampart  there  is  a  second 
trench,  varying  in  width  from  20  feet  on  the  south  and  east  to 
24  feet  on  the  north  and  30  feet  on  the  west.  The  depth  of 
this  ditch  will  be  about  5  feet,  and  less  than  that  in  some 
places.  .  .  .  The  level  area  so  thoroughly  defended  is  not 
of  great  extent.  It  measures  108  feet  from  north  to  south,  and 
barely  100  feet  (a  measurement  taken  by  the  writer  gave  98 
feet)  from  east  to  west." 

CAMP  AT  CASTLE  HILL  (DALWHAT  GLEN). 

Castle  Hill  camp  or  fort  is  situated  near  Drumloff,  about 
four  and  a  half  miles  north  of  Moniaive,  on  an  eminence  1081 
feet  above  sea-level.  It  measures  upwards  of  1000  feet  in 
circumference,  and  is  the  largest  as  well  as  the  loftiest  defensive 
work  in  the  parish.  The  central  area  is  flat,  and  measures  281 
feet  in  length  by  173  in  breadth.  The  defences  consist  of  two 
lines  of  trenches  with  ramparts  formed  out  of  the  excavated 
soil.  On  the  north  and  north-west  both  the  ditches  and  the 
ramparts  are  well  defined,  but  at  other  points  on  the  south  and 
east  they  are  far  from  distinct.  The  form  of  the  work  is  quasi- 
rectangular,  and  in  all  probability  that  is  the  reason  why  it  has 
been  ascribed  to  the  Romans  (see  Monteith's  The  Parish  of 


24  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Glencairn,  pp.  7-8).  So  far  as  we  are  aware,  no  Roman 
remains  have  been  found  on  the  site  of  the  earthwork,  and, 
although  a  fragment  of  a  reputed  Roman  roadway  exists  in  the 
neighbourhood,  the  evidence  connecting  the  position  with 
occupation  by  the  legions  is  extremely  slight. 

In  the  6-inch  O.S.  map,  which  contains  details  not  to  be 
found  in  the  1-inch  map,  three  other  works  of  a  defensive 
character  are  recorded,  viz. : — 

(1)  "Earthwork,"  near  Birkshaw. 

(2)  "Mote,"  near  Shancastle. 

(3)  "Mote  and  Bow-Butts,"  near  Jarbruck. 

The  earthwork  at  Birkshaw  has  suffered  so  much  from 
natural  decay  that  it  is  now  difficult  to  form  an  opinion  as  to 
its  size  and  character.  We  propose,  therefore,  to  confine  our 
attention  to  the  motes  at  Shancastle  and  Jarbruck,  both  of  which 
are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation. 

MOTE  AT  SHANCASTLE. 

This  small  mote  is  situated  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
road  from  Moniaive  to  Dumfries,  directly  opposite  the  entrance 
to  the  farmhouse  of  Shancastle.  It  occupies  a  natural  knoll, 
and  is  strengthened  on  the  north,  where  nature  is  weakest,  by 
two  trenches  backed  by  earthen  ramparts.  The  summit  is  level 
and  measures  74  feet  by  64  feet.  From  this  platform  the 
ground  slopes  abruptly  to  the  trenches,  which  are  about  15  feet 
in  width  and  2|  feet  in  depth.  Stones  protrude  from  a  tree- 
planted  ridge  on  the  west,  but  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  the 
significance  of  these  owing  to  the  presence  of  a  network  of  roots. 
The  position  overlooks  a  wide  expanse  of  country,  especially  to 
the  north  and  west,  and — what  is  of  interest  to  note — commands 
the  Cloan  pass  as  it  opens  on  Glencairn  from  the  Valley  of  the 
Shinnel. 


ANTIQUITIES.  25 

JARBRUCK  MOTE. 

Jarbruck  mote  or  mound,  known  also  as  the  "  Bow-butts  of 
Ingleston,"  forms  a  prominent  feature  in  the  landscape  about  a 
mile  and  a-half  to  the  east  of  Moniaive.  It  is  of  an  oblong 
form,  and  has  at  each  end  an  earthen  turret  cut  off  from  the 
main  body  by  a  deep  trench.  The  length  of  the  central  portion 
is  220  feet,  and  the  height  34  feet.  The  breadth  varies  from 
40  feet  at  the  eastern  end  to  90  feet  at  the  western.  The 
eastern  turret  is  not  more  than  30  feet  in  height,  but  the  western 
turret  rises  to  a  height  of  44  feet  with  a  diameter  at  the  top  of 
32  feet.  On  the  south-west  there  is  a  well-defined  roadway 
giving  access  to  the  mound.  It  is  about  150  feet  in  length  by 
12  feet  in  breadth,  and  has  ridges  of  from  2-3  feet  in  height 
along  each  side. 

Numerous  conjectures  have  been  made  as  to  the  original 
design  of  the  mound.  Grose,  the  antiquary,  writing  in  1789, 
adopts  an  opinion  apparently  current  in  his  day,  that  the  mote 
had  been  raised  to  serve  as  an  arena  for  the  practice  of  archery. 
The  late  Mr  William  Bennet,  a  native  of  Glencairn,  falls  foul 
of  Grose  for  this,  and  contends  that  it  marks  the  last  resting 
place  of  an  Arch-Druid.  The  late  Rev.  John  Monteith  ascribes 
the  mound  to  the  Romans  (see  The  Parish  of  Glencairn,  p  8), 
while  a  recent  writer,  the  Rev.  Dr  J.  King  Hewison,  of 
Rothesay,  believes  it  to  have  been  formed  by  the  Normans.  So 
far  as  the  tradition  adopted  by  Grose  is  concerned,  it  is  by  no 
means  improbable  that  the  mound  may  have  been  resorted  to 
in  feudal  times  for  the  practice  of  archery.  We  know  that  the 
Scottish  Parliament  was  extremely  anxious  to  encourage  the  use 
of  the  bow,  and  that  an  Act  was  passed  providing  for  the  erec- 
tion of  bow-butts  in  the  neighbourhood  of  parish  churches,  to 
which  all  men  between  the  ages  of  sixteen  and  sixty  were 
required  to  repair  at  stated  intervals.  It  is  unlikely,  however, 
that  the  mound  was  originally  designed  for  such  a  use.  We 


26  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

think  it  is  a  natural  mound  adapted  to  a  defensive  rather 
than  a  recreative  purpose,  but  in  the  absence  of  an  exhaustive 
survey  accompanied  by  excavation  it  is  impossible  to  speak 
with  certainty.  Dr  David  Christison,  writing  of  this  class  of 
remains,  says : — 

"  The  study  of  Scottish  motes  has  yet  to  be  made  from  the 
foundation.  History  is  silent  concerning  their  use,  and  no 
general  account  of  their  nature,  number,  and  distribution  exists. 
An  unfortunate  complication  is  the  difficulty  of  distinguishing 
between  motes,  or  fortresses,  and  moot-hills,  or  meeting  places. 
Not  only  is  the  resemblance  between  the  words  mote  and  moot 
very  close,  although  they  are  derived  from  very  different  roots 
— the  one  signifying  '  dust '  and  the  other  '  an  assembly  ' — but 
it  extends  to  the  objects  themselves,  both  consisting  essentially 
in  little  eminences,  natural  or  artificial.  ...  It  may  well 
be  that  as  far  as  structure  goes  the  motes  and  forts  pass  into 
each  other  by  insensible  gradations." 

The  mound  stands  on  a  part  of  the  Crawfordton  estate. 
From  the  top  the  turrets  of  Crawfordton  mansion-house  may  be 
seen  about  half  a  mile  to  the  northward,  and  the  old  and  the 
new  are  thus  brought  into  intimate  relationship. 

OTHER  DEFENSIVE  WORKS. 

Two  other  works,  which  are  not  marked  on  either  the 
1-inch  or  the  6-inch  O.S.  Map,  call  for  notice.  The  larger  of 
these  is  situated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  east  of  Max- 
welton  House.  It  occupies  the  south-east  corner  of  what  is 
called  the  "  Horse  Park, ' '  and  lies  close  to  the  roadway  that 
connects  the  Clean  road  with  the  Dumfries  road.  The  work 
is  elliptical  in  form,  and  measures  198  feet  in  length  by  144 
feet  in  breadth.  The  defences  consist  of  two  lines  of  rampart 
composed  partly  of  earth  and  partly  of  stone.  The  area  within 
the  inner  rampart  is  small,  measuring  only  26  feet  by  24  feet. 


ANTIQUITIES.  27 

An  interesting  feature  of  this  part  of  the  defences  is  that 
stone  has  been  used  to  a  much  larger  extent  than  is  usual  in 
works  of  a  similar  kind  in  other  parts  of  the  parish.  The 
entrance  has  probably  been  from  the  south-west,  but  this  cannot 
be  stated  with  certainty,  as  the  outlines  of  the  work  are  obscured 
at  this  particular  point  by  a  plantation  of  young  trees  and  a 
rank  undergrowth  of  herbage. 

The  smaller  work  is  situated  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river  Cairn  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  to  the  east  of  Old  Craw- 
fordton.  Both  its  position  and  its  appearance  suggest  a  defen- 
sive purpose.  It  is  circular  in  form  and  has  a  diameter  of  sixty- 
six  feet.  The  single  rampart  by  which  it  is  inclosed  is  composed 
of  earth  and  stone,  and  is  well-defined,  although  it  does  not  rise 
to  more  than  two  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  ground 
forming  the  interior.  An  opening  to  the  south  probably  marks 
the  point  of  entrance.  The  central  area,  except  for  slight 
inequalities  due  to  the  presence  of  small  heaps  of  stones,  is  flat. 
It  is  noteworthy  that  this  work  is  situated  almost  midway  between 
Maxwelton  fort  on  the  east  and  Shancastle  mote  on  the  north, 
and  that  all  three  positions  command  the  important  Cloan  pass. 

The  Rev.  Peter  Rae  (1671-1748)  thinks  it  probable  that  the 
Boon  of  Shancastle,  which  rises  in  the  same  neighbourhood,  was 
a  Roman  Castellum  or  Out  Camp,  "  designed  to  keep  the 
highway  leading  to  Tibbers  (Penpont  parish)  from  the  lower 
parts  of  Nithsdale  and  Galloway."  But  this  may  be  regarded 
as  largely  conjectural.  Certainly  if  the  Boon  ever  possessed 
features  to  justify  such  an  opinion  they  have  now  entirely  dis- 
appeared. 

Belonging  to  a  comparatively  recent  period  we  find  in 
Glencairn  the  remains  of  a  number  of  "  keeps  ' '  or  fortified 
towers  such  as  were  possessed  by  nearly  every  feudal  baron. 
Eight  of  these  may  be  counted  within  as  many  miles.  Five  are 
in  ruins,  viz.,  at  Snade,  Breconside,  Old  Crawfordton,  Peelton, 


28  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

and  Jarbruck.  Happily,  a  kinder  fate  has  attended  the  keeps 
of  Maxwelton,  Caitloch,  and  Craigdarroch,  all  of  which  have 
been  transformed  into  handsome  modern  mansion-houses. 

CAIRNS. 

In  addition  to  the  large  cairns  mentioned  in  an  earlier 
chapter,  a  number  of  small  cairns — if  we  may  apply  that  name 
to  mounds  often  partly  composed  of  earth — are  to  be  found 
scattered  here  and  there  over  the  more  hilly  portions  of  the 
parish.  The  largest  congeries  of  these — certainly  upwards  of 
a  hundred — is  to  be  found  at  Girharrow.  Smaller  groups 
occur  near  Auchencheyne,  Craiglearan,  Castlehill,  Crossford, 
Dalwhat,  Lochurr,  Jarbruck,  and  Woodhead.  Kistvaens  have 
been  found,  probably  on  sites  formerly  occupied  by  cairns,  at 
Meikle  Stewarton  (see  Riddell  MSS.,  1790)  and  at  Girharrow 
(circa  1854). 

That  the  small  cairns,  like  the  large  cairns  and  tumuli, 
were  places  of  sepulture  can  scarcely  be  doubted,  and  the 
frequency  with  which  such  remains  occur  in  Glencairn  testifies 
to  the  presence  of  a  numerous  population  long  prior  to  the 
introduction  of  Christianity. 

ANNOTATED  LIST  OF  PORTABLE  RELICS. 

SMOOTHING  AND  IRONING  STONE. — Of  heavy  spar,  quadrangular 
in  shape,  5J  inches  long,  from  Glencairn.  (This  specimen 
is  figured  in  the  Catalogue  and  Proceedings  of  the  Society 
of  Antiquaries.) — National  Collection,  Edinburgh. 

BALL  OF  GREENSTONE. — 3J  inches  in  diameter,  found  in  Glen- 
cairn.— Grierson  Museum  Collection. 

STONE  WHORLS. — Two,  one  ornamented,  found  in  Glencairn. — 
Grierson  Museum  Collection. 


ANTIQUITIES.  29 

QUERN  STONE. — Under-stone  of  a  quern  found  in  a  field  near 
Minnyhive.  Presented  by  Mr  Samuel  Proudfoot,  Waulk- 
mill,  February,  1869. — Grierson  Museum  Collection. 

UPPER  PORTION  OF  ANCIENT  STONE  CROSS. — Found  in  Glen- 
cairn. — Grierson  Museum  Collection. 

SCULPTURED  STONE  PILLAR. — Supposed  to  have  been  removed 
from  near  Stroanf reggan,  Kirkcudbrightshire ;  now  standing 
in  garden  grounds  at  Hastings  Hall,  Moniaive. — Proprietor, 
James  A.  Mather,  Esq. 

STONE  HAMMER. — Small  perforated,  4£  by  2^-  inches,  found 
near  Auchenstroan,  Glencairn,  May,  1907. — The  property 
of  Mr  Augustus  Hislop. 

FLINT  FLAKES,  showing  traces  of  secondary  working,  found  near 
Moniaive,  1910. — Mr  John  M.  Corrie,  Dumfries. 

OTHERS  (IN  THE  POSSESSION  OF  THE  AUTHOR). 

STONE  HAMMER. — Perforated,  found  at  Moniaive,  1909. 
Length,  5£  inches;  breadth,  3£;  thickness,  If.  The 
perforation  is  If  inches  at  the  surface,  narrowing  to  y^ 
inches. 

STONE  HAMMER. — Large  perforated,  found  near  Castlehill, 
Glencairn,  in  1896.  Length,  7  inches;  breadth,  3|  inches; 
thickness,  3  inches;  weight,  4  Ibs.  If  ozs. 

BUTT-END  OF  PERFORATED  STONE  HAMMER. — 4£  inches  in 
breadth,  found  near  Benbuie,  Glencairn,  1904. 

OVOID  STONE. — 3f  by  2|  inches,  grooved  longitudinally  on  both 
sides,  presumably  from  use  as  a  point-sharpener.  1895. 

ANVIL  STONE. — Found  near  Gaps  Mill,  Glencairn,  1904. 
ADDER  BEAD. — Found  in  Glencairn. 
HOLED  CHARM  STONES. — Two,  Glencairn. 


30  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

HAMMER  STONES. — Various  types,  found  in  Glencairn. 
STONE  WHORLS. — Various,  found  in  Glencairn. 
QUERNS. — Several,  found  in  Glencairn. 

TRIPOD  EWER. — Found  near  the  south-western  border  of  the 
parish  in  1885. 

ANTLER  OF  RED  DEER. — Found  in  bed  of  Craigdarroch  stream, 
near  Moniaive,  1908. 


THIPOD    EWEK. 


CHAPTER   IV.— VALUATION. 

Of  the  civil  history  of  the  parish  prior  to  the  sixteenth 
century  very  little  information  is  available.  In  the  Tax  Roll  of 
1554  the  "Barony  of  Glencairn  "  is  valued  at  £120  pounds 
Scots  (£10  sterling).  Other  properties  in  the  district  are 
entered  at  equally  low  valuations.  It  is  probable,  however, 
that  the  figures  given  do  not  represent  the  actual  yearly  value 
of  the  lands  mentioned,  but  merely  the  ratable  value  placed 
upon  them  by  their  owners.  The  first  serious  attempt  to  pre- 
pare a  reliable  Roll  of  the  Shire  of  Dumfries  appears  to  have 
been  made  in  1667.  Great  pains,  we  are  told,  were  taken  to 
render  the  Roll  of  1667  as  complete  as  possible.  Notwith- 
standing this,  it  was  soon  discovered  to  be  extremely  erroneous 
and  defective.  A  special  Act  authorising  corrections  was 
accordingly  passed  by  the  Privy  Council,  and  on  the  7th  May, 
1671,  the  Commissioners  of  Supply  made  up  and  certified  a  new 
Valuation  Roll,  differing  materially  from  the  former  one.  As 
this  early  roll  contains  much  that  is  of  interest  to  present-day 
residents  in  the  parish  we  print  it  in  extenso  side  by  side  with  the 
modern  roll  of  1827. 

ANCIENT  VALUATION. 

PARISH     OF     GLENCAIRNE. 

Maxweltoune's  lands,  viz. : — The  Four  merk  and  halfe 
merkland  of  Auchenstrowan,  The  Three  merkland  of 
Baltonne,  The  Twa  merkland  of  Craiglirian,  The  Twa 
merke  halfe  merkland  of  Mairtour,  The  Twa  merk- 
land of  Drumloaff,  The  Twa  merk  halfe  merkland 
of  Burnfoot,  The  Three  merkland  of  Hill,  The  Fyftie 
shillingland  of  Peilstoune,  The  Three  merkland  of 
Shankistoun,  The  Fyve  merkland  of  Maxwell toun, 
The  Three  poundland  of  Belliboucht  and  Corsfoord, 
The  Threttie  shillingland  of  Braikensyd,  The  Fourtie 
ehillingland  of  Straithhead,  The  Fourtie  shillingland  \ 


32  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Mks.    s.     d. 

of  Aucheufedrig,  The  Fourtie  shillingland  of  Dar- 
darroch,  The  halfe  merkland  of  Clanstoune,  The 
Tvva  merkland  of  Castlefairne,  The  Milne,  The 
merkland  of  Little  Laggan,  The  merkland  of 
Meikle  Laggan,  The  Twa  merkland  of  Gordiestoune  3,400  0  0 
The  Lands  pertaining  to  Robert  Fergusson  of  Craig- 
darroch,  The  Four  merkland  of  Jedburghe,  Lochan- 
bennet,  and  Damacullen,  Craigdarroch  Milne  and 
Lagdow,  The  Twa  merkland  of  Moss  and  Graynes 
and  Coatrnantack,  The  land  called  the  Twentie 
shillingland,  The  Three  merk  halfe  merkland 
of  Chapelmark  and  Corrodow,  The  Twa  merk  halfe 
merkland  of  Cornbie,  The  Twa  merk  halfe  merkland 
of  Conrike,  The  Twa  merk  halfe  merkland  of 
Blairoh,  The  Twa  merk  halfe  merkland  of  Benbowie, 
The  Twa  merk  halfe  merkland  of  Barnbowrie,  The 
Threttie-twa  shillingland  of  Craigdarroch,  The 
Twentie  shillingland  of  Neise,  The  Fyve  merkland  of 
Barndarroche,  Over  Caitloch,  Camanell,  and  merk- 
land of  Dungalstoune  ...  1,500  0  0 

The  Lands  pertaining  to  John   M'Gachan,   The  Twa 
merk  halfe  merkland  of  Dalwhat  head,  The  merkland 
of   The   Mayns  of    Dalwhat,    The   Twa   merk   halfe 
merkland  of  Mairwhairne  ...         ...         ...         ...       562    0    0 

The  Lands  pertaining  to  Inglestoune,  The  merkland 
of  Kirkland,  The  merklands  of  Gilmourstoune,  The 
Twa  merkland  of  Mid  Inglestoune,  The  halfe  merk- 
land pertaining  to  him,  The  Milne  of  Twa  merkland  657  6  8 

The  Over  merkland  of  Kirkland 90     00 

The  Twa  merkland  of  Birkshaw 122     6     8 

The  Fourtie  shilling  land  of  Freuchlarg 200    0     0 

The  Twa  Merkland  of  Nether  Inglestoune       300    0    0 

The  land  pertaining  to  James  Craik,  The  Threttie 
shilling  land  of  Compstoune,  The  Milne  c;f  Snaid,  The 
Twa  merkland  of  Coatstoune,  The  Twa  merkland  of 
Keulstun,  The  merkland  of  Gaitsyd  and  merkland  of 
Mossettstoun,  The  merkland  of  the  Twa  merkland 

and  merkland  of  Stuartoune 775     0    0 

The  Twa  merkland  of  Cleughsyd  and  Lairmore,  The  \ 
Twa   Merkland   of   Claak,    Kidstoune,    and   Brattle-  L 

stoune          J    250    0    0 

The  merkland  of  Netherclaak,  pertaining  to  Bogrie  ...         20    0     0 
The   Laird   of   Crawfurdfcoun's  haill   lands   besyd   his 

lands  purchased  from   Stuartoun       600    0    0 


VALUATION.  83 


1 

Iks. 

s. 

d. 

The  Twa  merkland  of  Blackstouiie 

150 

0 

0 

The  Three  poundland  of  Auchencheyne  

300 

0 

0 

The  merke  halfe  merkland  of  Dibbin  
Che  merkland  of  L/ochwhir  ... 

160 
180 

0 

0 

0 

o 

The  Twa  merkland  of  Minnygryll,  and  Twa  Merkland  \ 
of  Kirkcudbright,  Nether  Caitloch,  and  Twa  merk  (. 
halfe  merkland  of  Dunreggin  ...         ...         ...         •••  ) 

475 

o 

0 

The  Twa  merkland  of  Craignestin,  and  Twa  merkland 
of  Threerigs 

337 

o 

o 

The  Twa  merkland  of  Glencrosh  ... 

165 

0 

0 

The  merkland  of  Nether  Kirkcudbright  

135 

0 

0 

The  Threttie  shilling  land  of  Creichen  and  Boddom  ... 

300 

0 

0 

The  Threttie  shilling  land  of  Braickensyd          

90 

0 

0 

The  Threttie  shillingland  of  Calsyd       

187 

G 

8 

The  Twa  merk  halfe  merkland  of  Glengaer       ...         ... 
The  Fyve  merkland  of  Terraren  ... 

200 
312 

0 

G 

0 

8 

The  lands  of  Snaid,  Borland,  Gerristoune,  and  Shaw... 
The  merk  land  of  Knockauchley  ... 

447 
150 

0 
0 

0 

u 

Suma    ...  ...  12,056    0    0 

Twelve  Thousand  and  fyftie-six  merks. 

MODERN  VALUATION. 

Particular  Val.      Total. 
Robt.  Cutlar  Fergusson  of  Orroland  and 
Craigdarroch. 

Craigdarroch    Mains,    Dungalston, 

and  Ewanston         242     6     8 

Thirty-shillingland      of      Creechan 

and   Boddam          273    0    0 

Thirty-shillingland  of  Callside      ...       187     6     8 

Marwhirn        154    0    0 

Craigdarroch  Parks,  being  Chappel- 
merk  and  Twenty-shillingland  of 

Camonel       112     6     8 

Nether  Tack 27     0    0 

Upper    Caitloch    and   Caitlochpark         20    0     0 

Part  of   Marwhirn 20    0    0 

1,036    6    8 


34  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Particular  Val.      Total. 
Jas.  Walker  of  Crawfurdton. 

The    Laird    of    C.'s    hail    Lands, 
exclusive  of  the  Lands  purchased 

from  Stewarton     600    0    0 

Two  merkland  of    Cleughside   and 
Lairmore,  and  Two-merkland  of 
Claak,  Kidston,  and  Brattleston       250     0    0 
Stewarton,     holden     of     Duke     of 


979    0     0 


Buccleuch  and  Queeneberry 

89 

0 

0 

Westside  of  Merkland  of  Kirkland 

20 

0 

0 

Easfcside   thereof        

-  20 

0 

0 

Rear-Admiral      Sir      Robt.      Laurie      of 

Maxwelton,  Bart. 

Maxwelton 

259 

6 

8 

Shancastle  or  Shankieston  

151 

G 

8 

Bankhead  or  Auchenfeddricks 

151 

3 

4 

Straith  or  Straithhead       

131 

0 

0 

Bellybuchts 

121 

0 

o 

Corseford 

111 

o 

0 

Walliston 

50 

5 

4 

975    8    8 

Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Know.. 

Twomerkland,     Gateside,     Moffats- 

toun,        Keulston,        Coatstoun, 

Compstoun,   and  Miln  of   Snaid, 

holden  of  the  Crown       J    686    0    0 

Borland,  and  remainder  of  Snaid      235    0    0 

921    0    0 

Jno.  Barber  of  Terarran. 

Five-merkland  of  Terraran  ...  312  6  8 
Benbuie  and  Cornbie  212  0  0 

Martour  and  Little  Dibbon          ...       175     0    0 

699    6    8 

Trustees  of  Wm.  Forbes  of  Callander. 

Auchenstroan  and  Stranshalloch...  282  6  8 
Castlefairn  252  0  0 

Neiss    and    Ballinnie  151     6     8 

686    0    0 

Wm.  Collow  of  Auchenchain. 

Three-merkland  of  Auchenchain  ...  300  0  0 
Two-merkland  of  Craigneeton  ...  200  0  0 
Two-merkland  and  Miln  thereof  ...  129  6  8 

Half -merkland  5000 

679    6    8 


VALUATION.  35 

Particular  Val.       Total. 
Trustees  of  Bobt.  Gillespie  of  Peelton. 

Hill    or    Gillygappock,    with    Miln 

and  Miln  Lands  of  Gillygappock       290    0    0 

Part  of  Peelton       151  10     8 

Half  of  Dunreggan,  called  Burn- 
foot,  and  the  whole  of  Templand 
Meadow  131  1  0 

572  11     8 

Robt.  Kennedy  of  Craigshiel. 

Mains  of  Dalwhat  and  Dalwhathead      268    0    0 
Drumloff          151     0     0 

419    0    0 

Robt.  Welsh  of  Collin. 

Shaw,  Gairriston,  and  part  of  Snaid      212     0     0 
Gilmerstoun  138    0    0 

350    0    0 

Rev.  Thos.  Gibson  of  Glencrosh. 

Twomerkland  of  Glencrosh 165     0    0 

Merkland  of  Threerigs       137     0    0 

302    0    0 

Rev.  Dr  Alex.  Scot  of  Over  Ingleston. 

Mid  and  Over  Ingleston  300  0  0 

Mrs  Smith. 

Twomerkland  of  Nether  Ingleston  300  0  0 

Gilbert  Collow  of  Blackstone. 

Blackstone       150    0    0 

Over  Kirkcudbright 135    0    0 

285    0    0 

Arch.  Wallace  of  Conrick. 

Conrick  138    0    0 

Meikle  Dibbon,  and  Holm  of  Little 
Dibbon  138  0  0 

276    0    0 

Wm.  Smith  of  Glenjaan. 

Two-merk  Half-merkland  of  Glenjaan 200  0  0 

Heirs  of  Jas.  and  D.  Wallace. 

Forty-shillingland  of  Fleuchlarg 200  00 

Alex.  Smith  and  W.  M'Call. 

Nether  Caitloch  and  Dunreggan 186  0  0 

Robt.  Kirk  of  Craiglirian. 

Craiglirian      181  10    0 


36  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Particular  Val.      Total. 
Heirs  of  Wm.  Martin  of  Dardarroch. 

Dardarroch      •••       180  11     0 

Alex.  Moffat  of  Lochurr. 

Merkland  of   Lochurr  ...       180     0    0 

Heirs  of  Wm.  Niocol  of  Laggan. 

Meikle  and  Little  Laggan  ...  •••       176     6     8 

Miss  Dobie  of  Breconside. 

Breckonside •••       171     6     0 

Walter  Stewart  of  Graynes. 

Part  of  Neisekiln,  Damhouse,  Nei&e 
Parks,  Craigdarroch  Miln  Lands, 
Waulkmiln  and  Feu  Duties  of 

Minyhive     109    5    8 

Part  of  Graynes,  and  Feu  Duties  of 
Minyhive  ...  ...  ...  ...  56  6  8 

165  12    4 

Alex.  Smith  of  Land. 

Two-merkland  of  Minnygryle       ...         154     0     0 

Jas.  Smith  of  Jedburgh. 

Over-merkland  of  Kirkland  ...         90     0    0 

Jerburgh          63    0     0 

153    0    0 

Jas.  Goldie  of  Knockauchly. 

Merkland  of  Knockauchly 150     0    0 

David  Hastings  of  Corrodow. 

Corrodow         140    0    0 

Heirs  of  Mrs  Wilson. 

Merkland  of  Nether  Kirkcudbright       135    0    0 

Alex.  Moffat  of  Barbuie. 

Two-merk  Half-merkland  of  Bar- 
buie or  Benbuie  102  6  8 

Part  of  Barndannoch  23    0     0 

Part  of  Kilnknow      334 

128  10    0 
John  Waugh. 

Part  of  Dalwhat,  called  Holmhead       120    0    0 

John  Wallace. 

Blairoch  HO    0    0 

Jas.  Coreon  of  Peelton 

Part  of  Peelton        HO    2    8 


VALUATION.  37 

Particular  Vol.      Total. 
Thos.  Moffat. 

Barndannoch  ...         ...         ...         ...         ...         93     6    8 

Jas.  Anderson  of  Stroquhan. 

Gordiestoun    ..................         90  10     0 

Jas.  Hastings. 

Part     of      Neisekiln,      Damhouse, 
Neise  Parks,   Craigdarroch   Miln 
Lands,     Waulkmiln,     and      Feu 
duties   of   Minyhive          ...         ...         63     4     4 

Part  of  Kilnknow      .........         10     6     8 


John  Caven. 

Part  of  Two-merkland  of  Birkehaw       ...         ... 

Thos.  Johns  tone. 

Another  part  thereof          ...         ...         ...         ... 

Thos.  Black. 

Clarenston       .................. 

Jas.  Niven. 

Part  of  Two-merkland  of  Birkshaw       ...... 

John  and  Jas.  Haining. 

Merkland  of  Nether  Claak,  pertaining  to  Bogrie 


Total   valuation   of   the   Parish  of   Glencairn     12,056    0    0 

Twelve  Thousand  and  fifty-six  merks.* 
Minister's  stipend,  £272  Os  4d,  and  £8  6s  8d  for  Communion 

elements.     The  Teinds  are  exhausted. 
Last  augmentation  dated  24th  Jany.,  1821. 
School  salary,  600  merks. 

*  Merk,  equal  to  13s  4d  Scots,  or  13gd  sterling. 

As  Rolls  of  later  date  are  easily  accessible,  they  do  not 
call  for  notice  here.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  valua- 
tion of  the  parish  according  to  the  returns  for  1909-10,  is 
£14,506  8s  7d.  Value  of  railways,  etc.,  £201.  Total, 
£14,707  8s  7d. 


* 


CHAPTER   V.— THE   CHURCH    BEFORE   THE 
REFORMATION. 

Although  Christianity  is  believed  to  have  been  introduced 
into  the  South  of  Scotland  in  397  A.D.,  the  condition  of 
anarchy  that  followed  the  withdrawal  of  the  Roman  power  early 
in  the  fifth  century  had  all  but  extinguished  the  light  of  Gospel 
truth  when  Cuthbert,  a  devout  monk  of  Melrose,  appeared 
(A.D.  635-87)  to  fan  the  flickering  flame.  "  This  zealous 
missionary,"  says  Bede,  "sought  out  those  remote  villages 
which  were  situated  far  from  the  world  in  wild  mountain  places 
and  fearful  to  behold,  and  which  as  well  by  their  poverty  as 
by  their  distance  up  the  country  prevented  intercourse  between 
them  and  such  as  could  instruct  their  inhabitants."  In  the 
course  of  his  arduous  and  self-denying  labours  Cuthbert  pene- 
trated into  the  country  of  the  Picts  of  Galloway,  and  it  is 
certainly  a  matter  of  no  little  interest  that,  despite  the  lapse  of 
more  than  twelve  hundred  years,  our  parish  still  retains  distinct 
traces  of  his  presence.  In  the  Castlefairn  valley,  about  a  mile 
south-west  of  Moniaive,  may  be  seen  the  site  of  Saint  Cuthbert's 
chapel,  or  cell  (see  O.S.  map),  and  the  associations  of  the 
spot  with  that  early  apostle  are  further  emphasised  by  the 
j)lace-names  "  Kirkcudbright  "  (Church  of  Saint  Cuthbert)  and 
"  Glencrosh  "  (Glen  of  the  Cross),  which  occur  in  the  near 
neighbourhood.  In  all  probability  these  names  mark  the  place 
of  the  first  Christian  church  in  the  parish,  and  thus  point  to 
the  permanent  establishment  of  Christianity.  From  time  im- 
memorial the  Castlefairn  valley  must  have  been  the  natural  line 
of  communication  in  passing  from  Dumfriesshire  to  Galloway;1 

1.  In  a  document  of  the  thirteenth  century  (Lib,  de  Melros) 
reference  is  made  to  the  "king's  highway"  (regia  via)  leading  from 
Dercongal  on  to  Glencairn,  and  thence,  it  may  be  presumed,  into 
Galloway. 


THE  CHURCH  BEFORE  THE  REFORMATION.  39 

and  it  may  well  be  that  at  this  particular  spot  Saint  Cuthbert 
rested  in  the  course  of  his  journeyings,  and  that  the  place  was 
afterwards  consecrated  by  devoted  followers  to  his  memory. 
About  three  miles  further  westward,  just  beyond  where  Glen- 
cairn  marches  with  the  parish  of  Dairy,  another  early  chapel 
must  have  existed,  for  a  portion  of  the  lands  of  Lochrennie 
bears  the  name  "Chapelrig,"  and  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a 
perforated  standing-stone — itself,  in  all  probability,  a  memorial 
of  a  still  earlier  form  of  worship— there  was  until  recently  a 
heap  of  debris,  to  which  tradition  points  as  marking  the  site 
that  the  chapel  occupied. 

For  several  centuries  subsequent  to  the  death  of  Saint 
Cuthbert  we  know  very  little  about  the  history  of  our  own 
country  in  general  and  absolutely  nothing  about  what  we  now 
call  Glencairn.  "It  is  somewhat  astounding,"  as  Hill  Burton 
observes,  "  to  reflect  on  so  enormous  a  blank  in  the  annals  of  a 
nation's  religion,  but  it  is  perhaps  reassuring — it  is  certainly  a 
matter  of  great  interest  in  itself — that  during  that  long  period 
of  obscurity  Christianity  lived  on."  In  the  twelfth  century  light 
begins  to  break  through  the  darkness,  and  it  is  then  that  Glen- 
cairn  emerges  to  take  a  place  in  the  national  annals. 

About  the  year  1116  David  I.  of  Scotland  caused  an 
inquisition  to  be  made  by  "  the  older  and  wiser  men  of  Cambria  ' ' 
respecting  the  ancient  possessions  of  the  See  of  Glasgow,  when 
it  was  found  that  certain  churches  in  Dumfriesshire  belonged  by 
right  to  that  See.  The  authority  of  the  Episcopate  of  Glasgow 
over  the  parishes  of  Eskdale,  Ewisdale,  Drivesdale,  Annandale, 
Glencarn,  and  Stranith,  with  a  part  of  Cumberland,  was  accord- 
ingly confirmed  in  Pope  Alexander's  bull  to  Joceline,  the  Bishop 
of  Glasgow,  during  the  year  1178,  and  it  was  reconfirmed  by 
Pope  Lucius  in  1181,  and  by  Pope  Urban  in  1186.  David's 
benefactions  to  the  Church  procured  for  him  canonization  as  a 
saint,  but  this  did  not  save  him  from  the  reproach  of  a  sue- 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

cessor,  who,  on  discovering  the  impoverished  condition  of  the 
royal  exchequer,  declared  that  he  was  "  ane  sair  sanct  for  the 
crown."  It  was  during  the  reign  of  David  I.  that  the  celebrated 
order  of  the  Templars  or  Red  Friars  acquired  possessions  in 
the  south-west  districts  of  Scotland.  Their  presence  and  influ- 
ence in  Glencairn  is  attested  by  references  in  old  records  to 
"the  Temple-lands  of  Ingleston,"  and  "the  Acres  of  the  Temple- 
land  meadow."  It  is  of  interest  to  find  that  the  latter  descrip- 
tion still  lingers  in  an  attenuated  form  in  the  field-name  "  The 
Acres,"  as  applied  to  a  portion  of  land  on  the  Crawfordton 
estate,  situated  to  the  north-east  of  Dunreggan. 

Generally  speaking,  very  little  is  known  concerning  the 
Catholic  clergy  who  officiated  in  particular  parishes  in  pre- 
Reformation  days.  In  many  instances  not  even  their  names 
have  been  preserved.  Glencairn,  happily,  has  been  more  for- 
tunate. On  the  19th  of  July,  1319,  we  find  "  Glencarne  "  men- 
tioned as  receiving  a  presentee  from  King  Edward  II.  (Bain's 
Calendar  of  Documents  Relating  to  Scotland,  vol.  iii.),  and  in 
the  Calendar  of  Entries  in  the  Papal  Registers  we  meet  with 
frequent  references  to  men  who  celebrated  the  rites  of  religion  in 
our  parish  more  than  500  years  ago.  All  the  entries  in  the 
Papal  Registers  are  full  of  interest. 

"To  John  de  Peblis,  M.A.,  Provision  of  a  canonry  of 
Glasgow,  with  expectation  of  a  prebend,  notwithstanding  that 
he  has  the  church  of  Glenqwym  (identified  with  Glencairn,  Co. 
Dumfries,  in  index)  in  the  same  diocese." — Letters,  Vol.  III. 
(Innocent  VI.)  1355.  4  Non.  Sept. 

"Brice  Ker,  M.A.,  and  S.C.L.,  for  the  church  of  Glen- 
karne,  in  the  diocese  of  Glasgow,  value  30/,  void  by  reason  that 
William  de  Houdesay  has  held  it  for  many  years  without  re- 
ceiving holy  orders,  notwithstanding  that  Brice  has  the  vicarage 
of  Gamerin,  in  the  diocese  of  Aberdeen,  distant  one  hundred 
and  sixty  leagues  from  his  birthplace,  which  he  is  ready  to 


THE  CHURCH  BEFORE  THE  REFORMATION.  41 

resign,  and  has  papal  provision  of  a  canonry  of  Glasgow,  with 
expectation  of  a  prebend." — Petitions,  Vol.  I.  1363.  (Pope 
Urban  V.)  Granted  Avignon,  15  Kal.  Feb. 

"  The  university  of  Paris.  On  behalf  of  John  de  Trebrona, 
M.A.,  of  the  Scottish  nation,  for  the  canonry  and  prebend  of 
Inchemacgrany  in  Dunkeld,  value  6  merks,  void  by  the  death 
of  Robert  de  Den,  notwithstanding  that  he  has  provision  of  the 
church  of  Glenkaryn,  in  the  diocese  of  Glasgow,  of  which  he 
has  not  yet  possession." — 1364.  Petitions,  Vol.  XL.  (Pope 
Urban  V.)  Granted  Avignon,  4  Kal.  May. 

"William  de  Trebron,  M.A.,  bachelor  of  theology  of  the 
third  year,  envoy  from  the  king  of  France  to  the  king  of  Scot- 
land. For  a  canonry  of  Glasgow,  with  expectation  of  a 
prebend,  notwithstanding  that  he  has  the  church  of  Glenkarne, 
in  the  same  diocese,  value  20/,  which  he  is  ready  to  resign." — 
1378.  Petitions.  (Clement  VII.,  Anti-Pope.)  From  the  Roll 
of  the  University  of  Paris.  Granted  Fondi,  3  Kal.  Dec. 

(The  Roll  of  Masters  of  the  College  of  the  Sorbonne,  Paris, 
describes  him  as  "priest,"  and  "prior  in  the  Sorbonne,"  and 
gives  the  date  11  Kal.  Dec.) 

"  William  de  Glendonvin,  of  the  diocese  of  Glasgow,  M.A., 
bachelor  of  canon  law,  kinsman  of  Simon  de  Mundavilla.  For 
the  archdeaconry  of  Glasgow  and  annexed  prebend,  value  200/, 
void  by  the  death  of  Simon  de  Mundavilla  at  the  Roman  court, 
notwithstanding  that  he  has  the  church  of  Glencarn,  in  the  said 
diocese,  and  the  canonry  and  prebend  of  Renfrew  in  the  same, 
value  together  140/.  He  is  ready  to  resign  the  canonry  and 
prebend."— 1409.  Petitions.  (Benedict  XIII.,  Anti-Pope.) 
Granted  a  disposition  to  William  to  hold  the  archdeaconry, 
together  with  the  said  church.  Barcelona,  3  Id.  Nov.  an  16. 

"  To  William  de  Glendonwyne,  rector  of  Glencarne  in  the 
diocese  of  Glasgow,  licentiate  of  civil  law.  Dispensation  to 
him  (who  is  licentiate  of  civil  law  by  examination,  M.A.,  and 


42  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

bachelor  of  canon  law,  and  is  of  noble  birth,  and  holds  besides 
Glencarne,  Aberdeen  and  Tours,  value  together  not  exceeding 
£80  sterling)  to  hold  for  life  together  with  the  said  church  any 
other  benefice  with  cure,  etc.,  as  before,  f.  11,  mutatis  mutandis. 
Nobilitas  generis,  litterarum,  etc." — 1423.  (Martin  V.)  2 
Non.  Jan.  St.  Peter's,  Rome. 

In  the  fifteenth  century  the  church  of  Glencairn  was 
granted  to  the  chapter  of  Glasgow  by  Bishop  Turnbull. 
Chalmers  in  his  Caledonia  says : — "  The  gratitude  of  dean 
Myrton  and  the  chapter,  erected  in  1450,  a  chaplainry  at  the 
altar  of  St.  Catherine  in  the  church  of  Glasgow,  with  a  stipend 
of  .£10  yearly  from  the  revenues  of  the  parish  church  of  Glen- 
cairn,  to  the  chaplain,  whose  duty  it  should  be  to  pray  for 
bishop  Turnbull,  his  father  and  mother,  and  for  his  predecessors 
and  successors  (Chart.  Glasgow)." 

At  this  period,  and  even  for  some  considerable  time  prior 
to  it,  the  Church  in  Scotland  had  become  completely  sub- 
servient to  the  Church  of  Rome.  Taylor,  writing  of  the 
religious  condition  of  the  people  towards  the  close  of  the 
fourteenth  and  the  beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century,  says: — 
"  The  notions  and  usages  prevalent  in  Scotland  at  this  period 
were  not  of  an  enlightened  or  elevating  character.  The  virtue 
of  the  mass,  and  of  the  relics  of  saints,  the  adoration  of  images 
and  of  the  cross,  the  efficacy  of  indulgences  and  the  importance 
of  confession,  of  processions,  and  of  pilgrimages,  were  zealously 
inculcated  by  the  priests,  and  credulously  believed  by  the 
people."  "Immense  numbers  of  pilgrims,"  he  says,  "  travelled 
to  the  various  shrines  of  saints  and  martyrs,  not  only  in 
Scotland  and  England  but  even  on  the  Continent,"  and  he 
quotes  a  contemporary  writer  to  prove  that  the  motive  of  such 
pilgrimages  was  "worldly  and  fleshly,"  rather  than  "to  have 
friendship  of  God  and  of  his  saints  in  heaven."  In  Scotland 
the  most  noted  place  of  pilgrimage  appears  to  have  been  Whit- 


THE  CHURCH  BEFORE  THE  REFORMATION.  43 

horn,  in  Galloway.  Thither  journeyed  James  IV.,  by  way  of 
Glencairn,  in  1508,  and  the  books  of  the  "  Lord  High 
Treasurer  "  furnish  us  with  details  of  some  curious  outlays 
that  were  incurred  in  the  course  of  the  journey.  The  King 
entered  Glencairn  by  way  of  the  Cloan  pass,  the  only  depression 
in  the  range  of  hills  by  which  it  is  possible  to  cross  with  comfort 
from  Nithsdale  into  the  valley  of  the  Cairn,  and  he  appears  to 
have  rested  at  Penpont,  and  again  at  "Castell  Fern  "  (Castle- 
fairn),  in  Glencairn.  It  is  at  the  latter  place  that  the  following 
outlay  is  recorded : — "  Item,  for  ane  sark  to  the  French  boy, 
vs."  Among  other  curious  payments  we  find: — "Item,  to  ane 
woman  that  sang  to  the  King,  xxvii.s."  "Item,  for  soling  of 
ane  pair  schune  to  the  King,  xv.d." 

We  can  imagine  the  stir  that  the  passing  of  the  King's 
gay  cavalcade  would  create  in  the  quiet  valley  of  the  Cairn. 
No  doubt  tokens  of  loyalty  and  even  of  affection  were  forth- 
coming, and  we  may  well  believe  that  with  these  the  King  was 
well  pleased.  But  it  is  not  for  long  that  we  are  permitted  to 
linger  over  the  picture.  Five  short  years  later  the  genial  but 
unfortunate  monarch  had  to  "dree  his  weird"  on  Flodden's 
fatal  field. 

During  the  reign  of  James  V.  the  principles  of  the  Reforma- 
tion, championed  by  William,  Earl  of  Glencairn,  his  son 
Alexander  (Lord  Kilmaurs),  Henry  Balnaves,  and  other  zealous 
Reformers,  made  rapid  progress.  Alarm  seized  the  Popish 
Church.  On  the  one  hand,  the  statutes  against  heresy  were 
made  more  severe ;  on  the  other,  the  clergy  were  enjoined  "  to 
reform  themselves,  their  obedienciaries,  and  kirkmen  under 
them,  in  habit  and  manner  to  God  and  man."  The  attempt  at 
reform  from  within  may  have  been  well  meant,  but  it  came  too 
late.  On  the  19th  of  August,  1560,  the  Estates  ratified  the  new 
Confession  drawn  up  by  the  Reformers,  and  on  the  24th  they 
abolished  in  all  time  coming  the  Pope's  authority  within  the 
realm  of  Scotland, 


CHAPTER  VI.— THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE 
REFORMATION. 

For  many  years  after  the  Reformation  there  was  a  great 
scarcity  of  ministers  throughout  Scotland.  "Kirks,"  we  are 
told,  "lacked  ministers,  and  ministers  lacked  stipends."  In 
the  emergency  readers  and  exhorters  were  appointed  in  many 
parishes,  and  it  is  on  record  that  Glencairn  was  supplied  by 
John  Jamieson,  "exhorter,"  in  1567.  We  learn,  further,  from 
a  royal  warrant  dated  21st  of  October,  1578,  which  is  pre- 
served in  the  Records  of  the  Sheriff  Court  of  Dumfries,  that 
the  stipend  paid  to  the  "  unplacit  Reidar ' '  at  Glencairn  was  "  £20 
ilk  yeir  "  =  £1  13s  4d  sterling.  A  reader  was  required  to  read 
the  Scriptures  in  the  Church  morning  and  evening,  and  to  offer 
up  the  public  prayers  contained  in  the  Book  of  Common  Order, 
but  he  was  forbidden  to  administer  the  rite  of  Baptism,  or  per- 
form the  Marriage  ceremony,  or  celebrate  the  Communion. 
Readers  of  approven  capacity  were  frequently  admitted  to  the 
office  of  the  ministry.  The  succession  of  fully  ordained  ministers 
from  1574  onwards  is  as  follows: — 1 

1574.  James  Betoun,  fourth  son  of  John  Betoun,  of  Balfour, 
Dunscore  and  Holywood  having  been  also  in  his  charge. 

1579.  James  Maxwell,  formerly  of  Lochmaben,  Reader  at 
Traqueir  in  1578;  he  continued  3rd  March,  1584,  and 
was  presented  to  the  Vicarage  Pensionary  of  Haliwod  by 
James  VI.,  29th  Jany.,  1582. 

1586.  William  Tailzer  (or  Tailzeour),  a  convert  from  Popery. 
He  was  translated  from  Penpont,  continued  in  1588,  and 
was  afterwards  translated  to  Tynron. 

1,  Scott's  Fasti  Ecdesia:  Scoticance, 


THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE  REFORMATION.  45 

1589.  John  Broune,  A.M.,  studied  at  St.  Salvator's  College, 
and  had  his  degree  from  the  University  of  St.  Andrews 
10th  December,  1586;  he  continued  14th  Jany.,  1643. 

1632.  William  Brown,  A.M.,  probably  son  of  the  preceding, 
was  laureated  at  the  University  of  Edinburgh  27th  July, 
1622.  He  married  Marione  Corsane,  who  survived  him, 
and  had  a  son  John,  who  succeeded  him  in  the  lands  of 
Inglistoun,  and  was  served  heir  2nd  July,  1656.  By  his 
last  will,  dated  27th  October,  1636,  he  left  "  to  the  man- 
tenanse  of  ane  scoole  at  the  Kirk  100  merks." 

1653.  James  Brotherstone,  A.M.,  attained  his  degree  at  the 
University  of  Edinburgh  15th  April,  1645;  was  deprived 
by  the  Acts  of  Parliament  llth  June  and  1st  October, 
1662;  and  died  before  26th  May,  1679. 

1665.  George  Hunter,  A.M.,  was  laureated  at  the  University 
of  Glasgow  in  1651;  ousted  by  the  people  in  1689;  and 
died  25th  Jany.,  1697,  aged  about  66. 

1692.  George  Boyd,  A.M.,  graduated  at  the  University  of 
Edinburgh  30th  April,  1689;  was  called  in  August,  1691, 
and  ordained  1st  February,  succeeding;  demitted  30th 
October,  1700. 

1704.  John  Pollock  studied  at  the  University  of  Glasgow,  and 
had  a  bursary  of  theology  28th  October,  1695;  was 
licensed  by  the  Presbytery  there  29th  January,  1701 ; 
called  4th  April,  and  ordained  26th  May,  1704;  he 
demitted,  having  been  called  to  Roxburgh,  1718. 

1719.  Robert  Jardine,  translated  from  Cummertrees,  called 
23rd  July,  admitted  5th  November  following;  translated 
to  Lochmaben  10th  October,  1732.  (The  dates  have 
been  obtained  from  the  Kirk-Session  Records  of  Glen- 
cairn.  No  dates  are  given  in  Scott's  Fasti.) 

1733.  William  Moodie,  called  28th  February,  and  ordained 
26th  April;  died  23rd  January,  1772,  in  his  72nd  year 
and  the  39th  of  his  ministry. 


46  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

1774.  William  Grierson,  son  of  a  small  farmer  in  the  parish  of 
Kirkpatrick-Fleming,  where  he  was  born  3rd  May,  1733, 
studied  and  had  a  gift  of  a  bursary  from  the  Exchequer 
20th  July,  1749,  at  the  University  of  Edinburgh;  became 
tutor  successively  in  three  different  families ;  was  licensed 
in  May,  1758;  he  was  assistant  successively  in  Tinwald, 
Moffat,  Inch,  and  Kirkcudbright  parishes;  called  to  the 
Scottish  congregation  at  Dort,  and  ordained  by  the 
Presbytery  of  Kirkcudbright  4th  August,  1763;  trans- 
lated to  the  English  Presbyterian  Church,  Amsterdam, 
in  1765;  presented  to  this  parish  by  Charles,  Duke  of 
Queensberry  and  Dover,  16th  May,  1772;  admitted  3rd 
November,  1774 ;  died  31st  May,  1803,  in  his  71st  year 
and  the  40th  of  his  ministry. 

1804.  John  Brown,  son  of  William  Brown,  tailor,  Dundrivan, 
parish  of  Douglas.  Born  6th  January,  1752;  licensed  by 
the  Presbytery  1st  July,  1778;  presented  by  William, 
Duke  of  Queensberry,  in  November,  1803,  and  ordained 
26th  April  thereafter;  died  27th  February,  1837,  in  his 
86th  year  and  the  33rd  of  his  ministry. 

1837.  Patrick  Borrowman,  licensed  by  the  Presbytery  of  Meigle 
31st  August,  1836;  presented  by  Walter  Francis,  Duke 
of  Buccleuch  and  Queensberry,  in  June,  and  ordained 
25th  August,  1837.  Demitted  at  the  Disruption  in  1843. 

1843.  John  Park,  translated  from  Liverpool;  translated  to  St. 
Andrews  in  1854. 

1855.  ..William  Burnside  Dunbar,  translated  from  Westerkirk. 

1864.  Robert  Hume,  assistant  and  successor,  translated  to 
Swinton. 

1869.  John  Monteith  studied  at  the  University  of  Glasgow. 
Became  assistant  at  Kilbarchan,  Renfrewshire,  whence 
he  was  called  in  1867  to  the  Barony  Chapel,  Glasgow, 
under  the  late  Rev.  Dr  Norman  Macleod.  Was  ordained 


THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE  REFORMATION.  47 

minister  of  Glencairn  1st  July,  1869.  Died  20th 
February,  1886. 

1886.  Patrick  Macdonald  Playfair,  M.A.,  (now  D.D.),  trans- 
lated to  St.  Andrews,  1899. 

1900.  George  G.  D.  S.  Duncan,  M.A.,  B.D.,  translated  to 
Inveresk,  May,  1907. 

1907.  Charles  William  Gray  Taylor,  M.A. 

"At  the  Reformation,"  says  Chalmers  in  his  Caledonia 
(Vol.  v.,  p.  166,  1890  ed.),  "  the  tithes  of  the  Church  of  Glen- 
cairn  were  let  by  the  chapter  of  Glasgow  to  William  Fergusson 
of  Craigdarroch  and  other  parishioners  for  payment  of  400 
merks  yearly,  of  which  nothing  has  been  paid  for  four  years 
then  passed,  when  the  rental  of  the  chapter  of  Glasgow  was 
given  up,  in  1562,  as  we  learn  from  the  rental  book.  To  the 
church  of  Glencairn  there  belonged  many  lands,  a  part  whereof 
were  appropriated  to  the  vicar.  After  the  Reformation  the 
whole  passed  into  lay  hands.  The  patronage  and  tithes  of  the 
church  of  Glencairn  were  vested  in  the  King  in  1587.  They 
were  granted  in  January,  1591-2,  to  Sir  James  Douglas  of 
Drumlanrig,  in  whose  family  they  continued.  On  the  death  of 
William,  Duke  of  Queensberry,  in  1810,  the  patronage  of  the 
church  of  Glencairn  went  to  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  and  Queens- 
berry." 

The  old  parish  church  of  Glencairn  was  in  use  till  1836. 
Externally  it  measured  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  in  length  by 
twenty -nine  feet  in  width.  The  disproportionate  length  is  ex- 
plained by  the  fact  that  a  school  was  accommodated  under  the 
same  roof.  Two  gable  walls,  overgrown  with  ivy,  are  the  only 
portions  of  the  building  now  standing.  These  walls  measure  no 
less  than  six  feet  in  thickness.  A  bell,  which  hung  on  the  eastern 
gable,  was  removed  to  the  new  church  in  1836.  The  inscription 
on  this  interesting  relic  is  as  follows : — "  SOLI  DEO  GLORIA, 
Charles  Hog,  Glencarn,  1611.  John  Taylor,  Whitehaven,  made 


48 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 


me  1789."  This  probably  means  that  the  bell  was  originally 
made  in  1611,  but  was  re-cast  by  John  Taylor,  of  Whitehaven,  in 
1789.  No  references  to  the  re-casting  of  the  bell  are  to  be 
found  in  the  Kirk-Session  Records,  but  in  the  Kirk  Treasurer's 
book,  afterwards  referred  to,  certain  interesting  details  con- 
nected with  the  bell  appear  under  dates  June  15th  and  Novem- 
ber 12th,  1789,  June  29th,  1791,  and  April  27th,  1794;  and 
these  entries  go  far  to  establish  what  we  have  stated.  An  aged 


GLENCAIRN  CHURCH  TOKENS.  1721  AND  i?48 

parishioner  says  that  the  old  church  was  an  extremely  plain 
building.  It  was  entered  by  a  low  arched  doorway  facing  south, 
and  had  one  or  two  steps  down  into  the  interior.  The  floor  was 
of  earth,  and  in  some  places  very  uneven.  A  moderately  wide 
passage  ran  throughout  the  church.  The  pulpit  was  placed 
against  the  south  wall,  and  a  low  gallery  occupied  each  end  of 
the  building.  We  learn  from  the  Records  of  the  Penpont 
Presbytery  that  in  1742  the  door  of  the  church  was  changed 
from  the  north  to  the  south  side  of  the  building.  Two  other 
doors,  described  as  "  East  "  and  "West  "  doors,  are  mentioned. 
The  dimensions  of  the  passages  with  which  they  communicated 
—7  feet  in  length  and  3  feet  7  inches  in  breadth — imply  that 
they  were  connected  with  the  two  galleries,  entrance  to  which  is 
said  to  have  been  obtained  by  means  of  outside  stairs.  Simul- 
taneously with  the  change  in  the  position  of  the  principal  door 
of  the  church,  a  new  window  was  opened  in  the  west  "gavel  " 
and  an  existing  window  enlarged.  The  only  other  fact  respect- 
ing the  church  that  we  have  been  able  to  glean,  is  that  a  passage 


THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE  REFORMATION.  49 

in  the  area  was  paved  with  small  white  stones.  A  former  grave- 
digger  directed  our  attention  to  the  existence  of  this  pavement, 
but  we  have  had  no  opportunity  of  ascertaining  the  extent  or 
character  of  the  work. 

The  churchyard  was  greatly  enlarged  by  the  Heritors  in 
1870-71.  It  has  since  been  handed  over  to  the  control  of  the 
Parish  Council  in  accordance  with  Section  30  (6)  of  the  Local 
Government  (Scotland)  Act,  1894.  Even  in  the  older  portion 
of  the  churchyard  comparatively  few  monuments  of  historic 
interest  are  to  be  found.  The  earliest  date  that  can  be  de- 
ciphered on  any  of  the  stones  is  1637.  There  are  fragments  of 
stones  that  may  be  older,  but  their  history  is  unknown.  One 
interesting  fragment  has  been  built  into  the  wall  that  separates 
the  churchyard  from  the  manse  garden.  It  measures  thirty-four 
inches  in  length  by  twenty-two  inches  in  depth,  and  is 
inscribed : — 

THERE  •  IS  •  NO  '  OBTA 

INING  '  THE  •  PRIZE 

OF  •  HAPPINESS  •  WIT 

HOUT  •  RUNNING 

THE  •  RACE  •  OF  •  HOLINESS. 

The  present  parish  church,  dedicated  like  its  predecessors 
to  Saint  Cuthbert,  was  built  upon  a  portion  of  the  glebe,  im- 
mediately adjoining  the  churchyard,  in  1836.  The  design  was 
by  Mr  M'Candlish,  Dairy,  and  the  cost  amounted  to  close  upon 
£2000.  Although  placed  near  the  centre  of  the  parish,  it  is 
about  two  miles  distant  from  Moniaive,  the  principal  centre  of 
population.  To  obviate  the  many  inconveniences  arising  from 
this,  an  additional  church,  now  named  Saint  Ninian's,  was 
erected  in  the  village  of  Moniaive  in  1887.  Both  churches  have 
recently  undergone  important  structural  improvements.  In 
1902  extensive  internal  changes  were  made  in  St.  Cuthbert's  in 
connection  with  the  introduction  of  a  pipe  organ,  and  in  1906 


50  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

St.  Ninian's  was  greatly  improved  in  appearance,  both  extern- 
ally and  internally,  by  the  addition  of  Gothic  windows. 

The  old  manse  of  the  parish,  built  from  a  plan  dated  1775, 
is  now  occupied  as  a  dwelling-house  under  the  name  "Cairnside." 
The  new  manse  was  erected  in  1840,  according  to  a  plan  pre- 
pared by  Mr  Walter  Newall,  Architect,  Dumfries.  It  is  built 
on  a  low  ridge  facing  south,  and  overlooks  a  beautiful  reach  of 
the  Cairn  river.  It  has  been  called  the  queen  of  Scottish 
manses. 

UNITED  PRESBYTERIAN  CHURCH. 

This  congregation  was  first  organised  in  connection  with 
the  General  Associate  Synod  under  the  designation  "  The 
United  Congregation  of  Glencairn  and  Closeburn,"  afterwards 
changed  to  "  The  United  Congregation  of  Moniaive  and  Thorn- 
hill."  The  first  church  was  built  on  the  farm  of  Kirkcudbright 
at  a  point,  still  marked  by  several  ash  trees,  on  the  old  line  of 
roadway  from  Moniaive  into  Galloway.  In  1800  the  congrega- 
tion built  a  new  church  on  a  site  within  the  village  of  Moniaive. 
This  second  church  was  replaced  in  1834  by  a  third  church,  built 
on  the  same  site.  While  the  new  church  was  in  course  of 
erection  the  congregation  worshipped  in  the  old  parish  church 
of  Glencairn. 


TOKEN.  MINNIHIVE  ASSOCIATE  CONGREGATION. 

It  may  be  of  interest  to  mention  that  the  original  lead  com- 
munion tokens,  issued  in  1778,  are  still  used  by  the  Moniaive 
congregation.  The  tokens  are  in  the  form  of  an  irregular 


THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE  REFORMATION.  51 

octagon,  and  bear  the  inscription,  "  Minnihive  Assoc.  Con.  Mr 
I.  P.,  (the  initials  of  James  Pattison,  first  minister),  1778." 
In  the  other  two  congregations  of  the  parish  the  metal  token  has 
now  been  superseded  by  a  printed  card. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  the  ministers : — 
1778.  James  Pattison,  ordained  30th  July,  1778;  translated  to 

Thornhill  at  the  disjunction  of  the  two  congregations  in 

1804. 

1805.  James  France,  ordained  22nd  August,  1805. 
1817.  James  M'Geoch,  ordained  26th  August,  1817. 
1849.  Robert   Berwick,   ordained  26th  June,    1849;   demitted 

May,  1863. 
1864.  Alexander  W.  Donaldson,  B.A.,  ordained  25th  October, 

1864;  translated  to  Strathaven  1870. 
1871.  Thomas  Kidd,  M.A.,  ordained  31st  October,  1871. 

i 

FREE  CHURCH  OF  SCOTLAND. 

The  Free  Church  of  Glencairn  originated  at  the  Disruption. 
The  Rev.  Patrick  Borrowman,  minister  of  the  parish,  warmly 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  Evangelicals,  and  he  was  among  those 
who  signed  the  Protest  and  Deed  of  Demission  on  the  18th  of 
May,  1843.  With  him  no  fewer  than  531  persons  in  full  com- 
munion left  the  Church  of  Scotland.  This  was  no  hasty  de- 
cision. At  a  largely  attended  meeting  held  in  the  manse,  a 
month  prior  to  the  sitting  of  the  famous  Assembly  in  Edin- 
burgh, it  was  solemnly  and  deliberately  resolved  to  appoint  a 
committee  "  to  look  out  a  site  for  a  new  church,  acquire  titles  to 
the  same,  and  generally  to  transact  all  business  connected  with 
the  Free  Protesting  Church. '; 

The  first  service  after  the  Disruption  was  held  in  the  open 
air  in  a  field  near  Broomfield.  Accommodation,  for  worship 
was  subsequently  afforded  by  the  managers  of  the  United 


52  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Secession  Church  in  Moniaive,  the  Free  Church  congregation 
assembling  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Meanwhile  the 
committee  appointed  to  look  out  a  site  for  a  new  church  had 
not  been  idle.  A  field  belonging  to  Mr  Hepburn,  Dunreggan, 
was  selected,  and  as  negotiations  proved  satisfactory,  building 
operations  were  at  once  begun.  So  expeditiously  was  the  work 
carried  out  that  by  December,  1843,  the  church  was  available 
for  public  worship.  A  tablet  setting  forth  the  occasion  of  its 
erection  was  inserted  in  the  front  wall  of  the  building.  The 
inscription  on  this  tablet  is  as  follows : — "  The  people  of  Glen- 
cairn,  aided  by  the  Central  Fund,  built  this  house  for  the  wor- 
ship of  God,  when  for  adhering  to  her  old  standards  and  the 
testimony  of  the  martyrs  on  behalf  of  Christ  as  King  of 
Zion,  the  Church  of  Scotland  was  severed  from  the  State. 
MDCCCXLIII.  Patrick  Borrowman,  minister."  The  erection 
of  a  manse  and  of  a  school  successively  claimed  attention,  and 
in  a  short  time  the  congregation  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing 
both  schemes  crowned  with  success. 

Naturally,  much  embittered  feeling  lingered  in  the  wake  of 
the  Disruption,  but  with  the  rise  of  a  new  generation  this  has 
entirely  disappeared,  and  there  is  now  cordial  co-operation 
between  members  of  the  different  communions  in  all  matters 
affecting  the  well-being  of  the  parish  and  district. 

In  1888  important  structural  improvements  were  effected 
upon  the  first  Free  Church  at  a  cost  of  £800.  During  recent 
years  the  beauty  of  the  building  has  been  further  enhanced  by 
the  addition  of  three  stained-glass  windows,  the  gift  of  the  late 
Robert  Mackill,  Glasgow ;  and  a  handsome  Estey  organ,  gifted 
to  the  congregation  by  Mr  and  Mrs  MacRae  of  Stenhouse,  in 
May,  1900.  More  recently  a  bronze  bust  to  the  memory  of  the 
Rev.  Patrick  Borrowman,  modelled  by  James  Paterson  Esq., 


THE  CHURCH  AFTER  THE  REFORMATION.  53 

A.R.S.A.,  has  been  inserted  in  the  vestibule  of  the  church.     It 
bears  the  inscription: — 


Born  1813. 
Ordained  1837. 
Died  1899. 


Nee 

Tamen 

Consumebatur. 


In  affectionate  memory  of  the  Reverend  Patrick  Borrowman, 

first  minister  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland  in   Glencairn. 

MCM:  A.D. 

In  March,  1893,  the  old  Free  Church  school  in  Ayr  Street 
was  purchased  back  from  the  School  Board  by  an  anonymous 
friend,  and  presented  to  the  congregation  for  use  as  a  hall,  a 
purpose  which  it  has  amply  fulfilled. 

MINISTERS. 

1843.  Patrick  Borrowman,  ordained  1837;  died  1899. 

1886.  John  Telfer,  colleague  and  successor,  ordained  Novem- 

ber,   1886;   translated  to  Lyon  Street  F.C.,    Glasgow, 

1891. 
1891.  David  Fyffe,   M.A.,   colleague  and  successor,  ordained 

July,  1891  ;  translated  to  Fairfield  English  Presbyterian 

Church,  Liverpool,  1896. 
1896.  Robert    G.    Philip,    M.A.,    colleague    and    successor, 

ordained  10th  September,  1896. 

UNITED  FREE  CHURCH  OF  SCOTLAND. 

Since  the  union  of  the  two  non-Established  Churches  in 
1900,  Glencairn  Free  Church  has  become  known  as  Glencairn 
United  Free  Church,  and  Moniaive  United  Presbyterian  Church 
as  Moniaive  United  Free  Church.  Both  congregations  are 
within  the  Presbytery  of  Dumfries  and  Penpont,  and  the  Synod 
of  Dumfries  and  Galloway. 


# 


CHAPTER  VII.— THE  COVENANTERS. 

Although  the  annals  of  Glencairn  are  mostly  of  the  quiet 
and  unassuming  kind,  such  as  naturally  belong  to  a  district  far 
removed  from  the  great  centres  of  life,  we  have  now  to  speak 
of  a  period  in  which  Glencairn  was  called  upon  to  play  a  part 
that  has  earned  for  her  a  distinctive  and  honoured  place  in  the 
national  annals.  We  need  scarcely  say  that  we  refer  to  the 
period  of  that  great  struggle  for  civil  and  religious  liberty  which 
culminated  in  the  Revolution  of  1688. 

In  1662  the  Prelatic  party,  in  their  efforts  to  impose 
Episcopacy  upon  Scotland,  issued  a  proclamation  banishing  from 
their  parishes  all  ministers  that  had  not  received  a  presenta- 
tion from  the  bishops  of  the  diocese.  Between  three  and  four 
hundred  ministers,  of  whom  James  Brotherstone,  minister  of 
Glencairn,  was  one,  resigned  their  livings  rather  than  submit  to 
this  enactment.  To  fill  the  empty  pulpits  an  army  of  raw 
recruits  called  curates  was  enrolled,  but  the  great  body  of  the 
people  refused  to  attend  upon  the  ministrations  of  these 
intruders,  and  the  parish  churches  were  almost  deserted.  At 
this  juncture  some  of  the  ejected  ministers  opened  their  houses 
for  worship,  and  the  privilege  was  so  largely  taken  advantage  of 
that  it  became  necessary  to  meet  in  the  fields.  This  was  the 
beginning  of  the  open-air  meetings,  called  conventicles,  which 
were  destined  to  become  so  famous  in  Covenanting  history.  An 
Act  was  immediately  passed  providing  that  all  ministers  preach- 
ing without  the  sanction  of  the  bishops  should  be  punished  for 
sedition,  and  that  certain  pains  and  penalties  should  be  inflicted 
on  those  who  absented  themselves  from  their  parish  church. 
In  1662  the  fines  levied  for  nonconformity  in  the  county  of 
Dumfries  alone  amounted  to  £164,200  Scots.  Of  this  sum  no 


THE  COVENANTERS.  55 

less  than  £3600  was  exacted  from  John  Laurie  of  Maxwelton, 
Glencairn.  These  and  other  tyrannical  enactments  stung  the 
Covenanters  beyond  endurance.  It  was  in  Dairy,  a  neighbour- 
ing parish  to  Glencairn,  that  the  storm  first  broke.  A  small 
company  of  Turner's  dragoons,  quartered  in  what  was  then 
called  the  Clachan  of  Dairy,  had  seized  an  old  man  named 
Grier,  and  were  threatening  to  roast  him  on  a  gridiron  because 
he  could  not  pay  his  church  fines.1  Certain  sympathisers  inter- 
fered, with  the  result  that  four  dragoons  were  made  prisoners. 
News  of  this  exploit  soon  reached  Balmaclellan,  where  a  larger 
number  of  Covenanters  seized  sixteen  more  of  Sir  James 
Turner's  men.  The  contagion  rapidly  spread,  and  it  was 
resolved  to  proceed  to  Dumfries  for  the  purpose  of  seizing 
Turner  himself.  On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  15th  November, 
1666,  this  bold  project  was  carried  into  execution.  The  insur- 
gents, with  Turner  a  prisoner  in  their  hands,  returned  from 
Dumfries  by  way  of  Glencairn  Kirk  and  Castlefairn,  at  both  of 
which  places  they  rested  for  refreshment,  and  on  the  following 
day  they  re-entered  Dairy.  Even  the  more  moderate  of  the 
party  now  saw  that  they  had  gone  too  far  to  turn  back.  It 
was  accordingly  resolved  to  march  upon  Edinburgh.  The 
disastrous  ending  of  the  ill-starred  enterprise  is  matter  of 
history.  Pelted  by  wind  and  rain,  weary  with  marching,  and 
disheartened  by  defections  at  the  moment  of  attack,  they  were 
offered  battle  on  the  28th  November,  at  a  spot  called  Rullion 
Green,  on  the  side  of  the  Pentlands,  near  Edinburgh,  and  after 
a  gallant  resistance  were  put  to  the  rout.  Many  surrendered  on 
receiving  a  promise  that  their  lives  would  be  spared,  but  the 
scaffold  was  at  once  set  up  and  the  grim  work  of  death  begun. 
According  to  the  Records  of  the  Justiciary  Courts,  ten  were 
hanged  in  Edinburgh  on  the  7th  December,  1666,  six  on  the 
14th,  and  nine  on  the  22nd,  and  in  the  same  month  four  were 

1.  Wodrow, 


56  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

hanged  in  Glasgow,  and  twelve  in  Ayr  and  Dumfries.  In  the 
following  August  a  still  larger  number  of  absent  men  were 
found  guilty  of  taking  part  in  the  rising,  and  were  sentenced  to 
be  hanged  whenever  they  were  found,  and  all  their  property 
was  confiscated. 

The  years  of  systematic  oppression  that  followed  are  among 
the  darkest  in  Scottish  history.  "No  part  of  modern  history," 
says  the  historian  Hallam,  "  can  be  compared  for  the  wickedness 
of  government  to  the  Scots  administration  of  this  reign." 
Towards  the  close  of  December,  1678,  John  Graham  of  Claver- 
house  was  sent  into  Dumfriesshire  to  punish  all  disorders  and 
church  irregularities  throughout  the  disaffected  districts.  He 
was  a  man  well-fitted  for  the  task.  Early  in  1681  he  wrote  from 
New-Galloway : — 

"  The  country  hereabouts  is  in  great  dread.  Upon  our 
march  yesterday  .most  men  were  fled,  not  knowing  against  whom 
we  designed.  .  .  .  My  humble  opinion  is  that  it  should  be 
unlawful  for  the  donators  to  compound  with  anybody  for  behoof 
of  the  rebel  till  once  he  hath  made  his  peace.  For  I  would 
have  all  footing  in  this  country  taken  from  them  that  will  stand 
out.  And  for  securing  the  rents  to  the  donators  and  the  Crown, 
it  is  absolutely  necessary  there  be  a  fixed  garrison  in  Kenmure, 
instead  of  Dumfries ;  for  without  it,  I  am  now  fully  convinced, 
we  can  never  secure  the  peace  of  this  country,  nor  hunt  these 
rogues  from  their  haunts.  ...  I  sent  yesterday  two  parties 
in  search  of  those  men  your  lordship  gave  me  a  list  of — one  of 
them  to  a  burial  in  the  Glencairn,  the  other  to  the  fair  at 
Thornhill.  Neither  of  them  are  yet  returned:  but  Stenhouse 
(Colonel  James  Douglas,  brother  of  the  Duke  of  Queensberry) 
tells  me  that  the  party  at  the  burial  miscarried;  that  he 
pointed  out  to  them  one  of  the  men,  and  they  took  another  for 
him,  though  I  had  chosen  a  man  to  command  the  party  that  was 
born  hereabouts.  They  shall  not  stay  in  this  country  but  I 
shall  have  them." 


THE  COVENANTERS.  57 

In  Glencairn  Claverhouse's  chief  coadjutors  in  the  work  of 
repression  were  Sir  Robert  Grierson  of  Lag,  Sir  Robert  Laurie 
of  Maxwelton,  and  Colonel  James  Douglas,  Stenhouse.  Of 
their  activity  and  zeal  our  hillsides,  unhappily,  afford  witness 
that  is  only  too  eloquent. 

MARTYR  MEMORIALS. 
1.  STONE,  INSCRIBED  "  W.  SMITH,"  IN  FIELD  ABOUT  A  QUARTER 

OF  A  MILE  TO  THE  EAST  OF  MONIAIVE. 

This  stone,  a  rough  block  of  whinstone,  with  the  name 
"W.  Smith"  rudely  inscribed  upon  it,  lies  on  ground  that 
was  formerly  part  of  "  Minnyhive  Moss,"  or,  as  it  is  else- 
where called,  the  "  Race-rrruir.  "  According  to  tradition  it 
marks  the  spot  where  William  Smith  fell  when  he  was  shot  by 
order  of  Douglas  of  Stenhouse  and  Laurie  of  Maxwelton. 
The  martyr's  final  resting  place  is  to  be  found  in  Tynron 
Churchyard,  where  a  flat  stone  raised  on  supports  bears  the 
inscription  :  — 


HERE    LYETH    WILLIAM 
SMITH    SON   TO    WILLIAM 
SMITH  IN  HILL1  WHO  FOR 
HIS  ADHERING  TO  THE  COVE- 
NANTED  WORK   OF   REFOR- 
MATION   WAS    SHOT    AT 
MINNYHIVE   MOSS   THE    29ra 
DAY  OF  MARCH  1685  HIS  AGE 
19  YEARS.     THIS  DEED   WAS 
NOT   DONE  BY  A  COUNCIL 
OF  WAR  BUT  BY  COUNTRYMEN 
WITHOUT  SYSE.2 


1.  Now  gardener's  house,  Crawfordton.         2. 


58  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Also,  at  right  angles  to  the  foregoing : — 

t*  ^  O  O  O  -i"1 
§cl|gC 

^    i_!^    O    O     LJ     ^ 
h^     nn    j_^j     ;*^    ^3 

*    .      tT      h^  J      t^ 


t=j    CO    33    ^ 

-s 


H 
KJ 


"  M    •<! 

cj  d  §  g 
oj  02  a  ^ 

o  or  3 

o 


This  inscription,  like  many  more  of  its  class,  is  poor  enough 
doggerel,  but,  as  some  one  has  said,  "The  doggerel  of  heroes 
must  always  command  the  respect  of  ordinary  men."  The 
statement  that  burial  was  refused  is  borne  out  by  tradition,  and 
attests  the  insatiable  cruelty  of  the  times.1 

1.  See  also  A  Cloud  of  Witnesses,  edited  by  the  Rev.  John  H.  Thomson, 
Edinburgh,  1871.     p.  551, 


THE  COVENANTERS.  59 

2.  STONE  IN  GARDEN  AT  INGLESTON. 

The  stone  at  Ingleston  is  hewn,  but  unpretentious  in 
character.  It  measures  two  feet  seven  inches  in  height  by  two 
feet  nine  inches  in  breadth,  and  is  inscribed : — 

IN  THIS  YARD  WERE  SHOT  JOHN  GIBSON 
JAMES  BENNOCH  ROBERT  EDGAR 
ROBERT  MITCHELL  AND  ROBERT  GRIER 
SON  APRIL  29  1685  BY  COLONEL 
DOUGLAS  AND  LIVINGSTONNS  DRA 
GOONS  FOR  ADHERING  TO  CHRISTS  KING 
LY  GOVERNMENT  IN  HIS  CHURCH  AGAINST 
TYRANNIE  PERJURIE  AND  PRELACIE 

The  story  of  the  death  of  these  men  is  sickening  in  its  brutality. 
One  Andrew  Watson,  an  informer,  having  got  wind  of  their 
retreat,  sold  his  information  to  the  authorities,  who  forthwith 
deputed  Colonel  James  Douglas  and  Lieutenant  Livingstone  to 
surprise  the  fugitives.  Their  cave  or  "  hidie-hole  "  was  accord- 
ingly surrounded,  and  the  whole  five  made  prisoners.  It  is 
said  that  the  soldiers  shot  in  on  the  cave,  wounded  one,  and 
then  rushed  in.  Without  any  examination  or  the  slightest  form 
of  trial,  Colonel  Douglas  ordered  them  to  be  shot.  John 
Gibson  was  the  first  to  suffer.  According  to  Wodrow,  "  his  sister 
got  in  to  him  by  the  compassion  of  some  of  the  soldiers."1 
His  mother,  too,  managed  to  get  to  him,  and  he  charged  her 
not  to  give  way  to  grief,  but  to  bless  the  Lord  upon  his  account, 
who  had  made  him  both  willing  and  ready  to  suffer  for  His 
cause  and  interest.  After  singing  part  of  Ps.  xvii.,  and  engaging 
in  prayer,  he  was  dispatched.  An  effort  was  then  made  to  dis- 
pose of  the  others  all  at  once.  The  volley  killed  three  of  their 
number,  while  the  fourth  was  left  sorely  wounded  but  conscious. 
One  Ferguson,  a  renegade,  observing  this  drew  his  sword  and 
thrust  him  through  the  body — fit  climax  to  a  tragedy  which  for 

1.  Su/eringa,  Vol.  IV.,  p.  243, 


60  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

cold-blooded  cruelty  is  almost  without  a  parallel  in  Covenanting 
literature. 

3.  STONES  IN  GLENCAIRN  CHURCHYARD. 

The  stones  commemorate  the  men  who  died  at  Ingleston, 
and  are  four  in  number.  One  of  them  being  a  replica,  it  is  of 
three  only  that  we  require  to  speak. 

(a)  STONE  TO  JAMES  BENNOCH. 

HERE  LYES  JAMES 
BENNOCH  SHOT  DE- 
-AD  BY  COL  :  DUGLAS 

AND  LIVINGSTONS 
DRAGOONS   AT   ENG- 
-LSTON    FOR    ADHE- 
RING TO  THE  WORD 
OF   GOD    CHRISTS    KI- 
-NGLY   GOVERMENT 
IN   HIS   HOUSE  AND 
THE  COVENTED  WO- 
-RK  OF  REFORMATION 
AGAINST    TYRANNY 
PERJURY  AND  PRELA- 
CY APR  :  28  :  1685  REV. 
12:  11 

o      w      bd      K 

HUQ^S^QW 

°woogg^£ 

W   g   g    S  OQ   5   *   * 

>  F  H    S  w  OQ  o  t-« 

CdHH^noW'TJH') 

SS^wg^gw 

tHhrj^^^^gCC 

™a*K%^*> 

^§0>°!2i^g 

d  -  rt  5  a  c  p  5 


•  ^  d  ^  a  x  c  o 

OjS^HHtrJH^P 
H    K*   g    g   >          H 
^          H    3    W 


W   Cj   »>  , . 

sal   e 

§    *    § 


u  TS 


*i 


THE  COVENANTERS.  61 


(b)  STONE  TO  JOHN  GIBSON. 

HERE  LYES  JOHN  GIBS- 
-ON  MARTYR  SHOT 
TO  DEATH  BY  COL:  DO- 
-UGLAS   AND   LIVINGS- 
-STONS  DRAGOONS  •  AT 
ENGLSTON    IN   GLEN- 
-CAIRN  •  FOR  ADHERING 
TO  THE  WORD  OF  GOD 
CHRISTS   KINGLY  GOV 
-ERMENT  IN  HIS  HOU- 
-SE:  AND  THE   COVENA- 
NTED WORK  OF  REFO- 
RMATION   AGAINST 
TYRANY  PERJURY  AND 
PRELACY  APRYL   28 
1685    REV.  12  :  11. 

t^t>M^'^WC^0t>WWS 

w  5*  Q  5{      &5  o      d  "  r»  o 

^         f*)         \m^         Hrt         U?         'W'         /•*.         S**.         ^5         L.  ^-H 

L^     h5     ^     h>l     pi     ^     {'*    P5     fT;     ^^     t^     f-H 

O§§wwoS^dS^z» 
Hto^m^s    Jo       wd 

P«    O   O          H   rO  uj  HyDOhr1 

y          HH    K    I— i          ^          ^i-a* 

^_       /~^  \^J  ^   .  L  -^      r^       — 

t>       ^<       <J       !?  ~    c 

§H          I          S          S          *          < 

G     KJ  to-  Q  d  O 

| ; .  S    « ;.;B  ,* 


62  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

(c)  STONE  TO  ROBERT  EDGER  AND  ROBERT  MITCHEL. 

HERE  LYES   ROBERT  EDGER 
AND  ROBERT  MITCHEL  MAR 
-TYRS   SHOT   TO    DEATH   BY 
COL  DUGLAS   AND   LIVING- 
STONS  DRAGOONS   AT   ENG 
LISTON   FOR   ADHERING  TO 
THE   WORD   OF   GOD   CHR 
ISTS    KINGLY   GOVERMENT 
IN  HIS  HOUSE  &  THE  COVE 
NANTED  WORK  OF   REFOR 
MATION  AGAINST   TYRANY 
PERJURY  &  PRELACY    APRIL 
28  .  1685.     REV.  12.  11. 
HALT  PASSENGER  TEL^  IF 
THOU  EVER  SAW 
MEN  SHOT  TO  DEATH 
WITHOUT  PROCESS  OF  LA  W 
WE  TWO  OF  FOUR  WHO  IN 
THIS  CHURCH-YARD  LY 
THUS  FELT  THE  RAGE  OF 
POPISH  TYRANY. 

Robert  Grierson,  the  remaining  sufferer  at  Ingleston, 
belonged  to  the  parish  of  Balmaclellan,  and  in  the  churchyard 
there  a  fitting  monument  has  been  reared  to  his  memory. 

4.  MONUMENT  TO  JAMES  REN  WICK  AT  MONIAIVE. 

Although  the  resting-place  of  James  Renwick  is  in  the 
north-east  corner  of  Greyfriars'  Churchyard,  Edinburgh,  his 
name  has  never  ceased  to  be  regarded  with  peculiar  veneration 
in  Glencairn,  the  parish  of  his  birth,  and  in  1828  a  handsome 
monument  was  erected  to  his  memory  on  a  commanding  position 
on  the  farm  of  Neise.  The  monument  bears  the  inscription : — 


THE  COVENANTERS. 


63 


REV?.    JAMES    RENWICK, 

the  last  who 
Suffered  to  Death 

for 
Attachment  to  the  Covenanted  Cause 

of  CHRIST 
in  SCOTLAND  ; 

BORN 

Near  this  Spot, 
15th  Feby.  1662  ; 

and  Executed 
at  the  Grassmarket,  Edinburgh, 

-  17th  Feby.  1688  - 

"The  Righteous  shall  be  in 

Everlasting  Remembrance." 

^=  Psal  cxii.  =  6  =- 

Erected  by  Subscription 

A.:  D.  MDCCCXXVIII. 


It  is,  however,  not  only  by  the  number  or  the  importance 
of  the  monuments  in  Glencairn,  commemorative  of  the  martyrs, 
that  we  learn  the  extent  to  which  the  parish  was  identified  with 
the  struggle  for  civil  and  religious  liberty  in  Scotland.  History 
has  also  preserved  the  names  of  many  who  bore  faithful  witness 
in  other  parts  of  the  country;  who  suffered  banishment;  who 
were  subjected  to  fines  and  penalties ;  or  who  endured  hardships 


64  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

and  extremities  rather  than  imperil  the  safety  of  loved  ones,  or 

the  triumph  of  the  cause  they  held  dear. 

1662.  Wm.  Ferguson,  Ketloch,  fined  £1000  Scots  and  forfeited 

in  life  and  goods. 

Jas.  Hunter,  Townhead,  fined  £600  Scots. 
Jno.  Laurie  of  Maxwelston  fined  £3600  Scots. 
James  Brotherstone,  minister  of  Glencairn,  deprived  of 
Church  living. 

1679.  Nine  Covenanters  from  Glencairn,  who  had  fought  at 
Bothwell  Brig,  condemned  to  banishment.     Five  of  the 
number — David    Mackervail,    John    Ferguson,    Robert 
Milligan,    James    Colvil,    and    Thomas    Rosper — were 
drowned  by  shipwreck  near  Orkney.     The  fate  of  the 
remaining    four,    who    escaped — John    Milligan,    John 
Murdoch,     John    Smith,     and    William    Fergusson — is 
unknown. 

1680.  John  Gibson,  in  Auchenchain,  forfeited  in  life  and  goods. 
—  Gibson,  younger  of  Ingleston,  forfeited  in  life  and 

goods. 
William  Grierson  of  Loch  Urr,  who  was  condemned  to 

death,  but  had  sentence  commuted  to  imprisonment. 
1684.  Fugitive  rebels  at  the  horn1 : — 
Archibald  Hunter  in  Terreran. 
Dr  John  Corsan,  Gapsmill. 
Alexander  Muirhead,  Glencorse. 
James  Corsan,  Jedburgh. 
William  Corsan,  Jedburgh. 
William  Harris,  Kirkcudbright. 
Alexander  M'Cubin  in  Marwhan. 
Robert  Ferguson,  Ketloch. 
John  Grier,  Glencairn. 

1.  It  was  long  the  custom  to  use  the  horn  for  public  proclamations,  and 
these  men  would  doubtless  be  proclaimed  outlaws  by  a  legally  empowered 
Messenger  at  the  Mercat  Cross,  Dumfries. 


THE  COVENANTERS.  65 

William  Wilson,  Burnfoot. 
Thomas  M'Murdy,  Barbuy. 
William  Ferguson,  Threerigs. 
Robert  Cunningham,  Ketloch. 
John  Gibson  in  Ingleston. 
Robert  M'Ewan,  tailor  in  Creichan. 
James  Crosbie,  Glencairn  Kirk. 
John  Matthison,  in  Shankerton. 
John  Ker,  in  Monygryle. 
1685.  Andrew  Ferguson  of  Glencairn,  imprisoned  in  Glasgow, 

who  died  of  disease. 
Elizabeth  Hunter,  lady  of  Caitloch,  exiled  to  Holland, 

where  she  died. 

1684.  James  Macmichael,  shot  by  Claverhouse. 
Robert  Smith,  executed  in  Kirkcudbright. 

Samuel  M'Ewan,  Glencairn,  hanged  in  the  Grassmarket. 

1685.  William  Heron,  Glencairn,  shot  at  Lochenkit. 
Alexander  M'Cubin,  Glencairn,  hanged  at  Irongray. 
Daniel  M'Michael,  Glencairn,  shot  at  Dalveen. 

JAMES  REN  WICK. 

Although  the  outstanding  incidents  in  the  life  of  James 
Renwick  are  well  known,  we  must  needs  linger  for  a  little  over 
the  career  of  one  who  has  shed  such  undying  lustre  on  the 
parish. 

James  Renwick  was  born  in  a  cottage  on  the  lands  of  Neise, 
near  Moniaive,  on  the  15th  day  of  February,  1662.  No  trace 
of  the  cottage  itself  remains,  but  an  aged  gean  tree  is  said  to 
occupy  what  was  once  a  corner  of  the  garden  plot,  and  almost 
within  living  memory  some  of  the  gooseberry  bushes  still 
occupied  the  ground.  The  cottage  was,  no  doubt,  one  of 
several  which,  tradition  tells  us,  stood  near  the  old  line  of  road- 
way on  the  side  of  the  Schlenders  Hill  (see  Place-names,  p.  16). 

His  father,  Andrew  Renwick,  a  weaver  by  trade,  and  his 


CG  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

mother,  Elizabeth  Corsan,  were  both  persons  of  fervent  piety. 
Several  of  their  children  had  died  in  infancy,  and  James,  we  are 
told,  was  the  child  of  many  prayers.  In  1676  Andrew  Renwick 
died.  By  the  assistance  of  kind  friends  the  widowed  mother 
was  enabled  to  send  her  boy  to  the  University  of  Edinburgh. 
His  college  course  was  marked  by  great  diligence,  and  "  he  was 
one  of  twenty-six  students  who,  in  the  summer  of  1681,  publicly 
took  their  degrees."1 

On  27th  July,  in  the  same  year,  Renwick  was  an  eye- 
witness of  the  execution  of  Donald  Cargill,  and  from  that  time 
his  mind  seems  to  have  been  made  up  to  throw  in  his  lot  with 
those  who  were  fighting  the  battle  of  civil  and  religious  liberty. 

He  continued  in  Edinburgh  for  some  time  after  his  laurea- 
tion,  frequenting  the  meetings  of  the  United  Societies,  formed 
for  mutual  protection  and  advice,  and  holding  fellowship  with 
the  non-conformist  ministers  and  others  who  attended  such 
gatherings.  Towards  the  close  of  1682,  he  was  selected  by  the 
United  Societies  as  a  worthy  candidate  for  the  ministry,  and 
sent  to  complete  his  studies  at  the  University  of  Groningen,  in 
Holland.  Having  shown  "  approven  proficiency,"  he  was 
ordained  by  the  "Classis  "  or  Presbytery  of  Groningen  on  the 
10th  May,  1683.  His  thoughts  now  turned  to  his  friends  in 
Scotland.  In  a  letter  written  about  this  time  he  says : — "  My 
longings  and  earnest  desire  to  be  in  that  land,  and  with  that 
pleasant  remnant,  are  very  great.  I  cannot  tell  what  may  be 
in  it,  but  I  hope  the  Lord  hath  either  some  work  to  work,  or 
else  is  minded  presently  to  call  for  a  testimony  at  my  hand ;  and 
if  he  give  frame  and  furniture,  I  desire  to  welcome  either  of 
them." 

The  opportunity  soon  came.  Returning  to  Scotland  in 
September,  1683,  he  was  "called"  with  unanimity  by  the 
people,  and  on  the  23rd  day  of  November  he  began  his  public 

1.  See  The  Covenanters,  by  James  King  Hewison.  Vol.  II.,  p.  414. 


THE  COVENANTERS.  67 

ministry  by  preaching  to  a  great  gathering  assembled  at  the 
Moss  of  Darmead,  in  the  parish  of  Cambusnethan. 

The  revival  of  field-preaching  at  this  time  was  peculiarly 
distasteful  to  the  Government.  In  the  beginning  of  1684 
Renwick  was  proclaimed  a  traitor  and  rebel,  and  in  September 
of  the  same  year  Letters  of  Intercommuning  (i.e.,  of  civil  ex- 
communication) were  issued  against  him.  "  We  command  and 
charge  all  and  sundry,  our  leiges  and  subjects,"  ran  this  bar- 
barous edict,  "  that  they,  nor  none  of  them  presume,  nor  take 
upon  hand,  to  reset,  supply  or  intercommune  with  the  said  Mr 
James  Renwick,  rebel  foresaid;  nor  furnish  him  with  meat, 
drink,  house,  harbour,  victual,  nor  no  other  thing  useful  or 
comfortable  to  him;  or  to  have  intelligence  with  him  by  word, 
writ,  or  message,  or  any  other  manner  of  way  whatsomever, 
under  the  pain  of  being  esteemed  art  and  part  with  him  in  the 
crimes  foresaid,  and  pursued  therefore  with  all  rigor,  to  the 
terror  of  others.  And  we  hereby  require  all  our  Sheriffs,  etc., 
to  apprehend  and  commit  to  prison,  the  person  of  the  said  Mr 
James  Renwick,  wherever  they  can  find  or  apprehend  him." 

The  amount  of  work  that  he  accomplished  in  the  face 
of  such  opposition  is  amazing.  During  the  first  twelve  months 
of  his  ministry  he  is  said  to  have  baptized  no  fewer  than  six 
hundred  children,  a  record  that  is  almost  incredible  when  we 
think  of  the  time  that  must  have  been  required  for  preaching, 
for  correspondence,  and  for  catechising.  Notwithstanding  hard- 
ships and  trials  his  faith  never  wavered.  In  one  of  his  letters 
he  says : — "  The  Lord  suffers  not  my  work,  however  unsupport- 
able  to  flesh  and  blood,  to  be  burdensome  unto  me,  for,  though 
the  world  think  my  case  most  miserable,  yet  I  think  it  is  so 
happy  that  I  know  not  a  man  this  day  upon  the  face  of  the  earth 
with  whom  I  would  exchange  my  lot." 

On  the  28th  May,  1685,  three  months  after  the  accession 
of  James,  Duke  of  York,  an  avowed  Papist,  to  the  throne, 
Renwick,  accompanied  by  about  two  hundred  men,  some  of 


68  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

whom  were,  no  doubt,  drawn  from  our  own  parish,  marched  to 
the  town  of  Sanquhar,  and  there,  after  praise  and  prayer,  affixed 
to  the  Market  Cross  a  declaration  disowning  James  as  King. 
At  the  moment  this  bold  step  did  not  attract  the  amount  of 
attention  that  might  have  been  expected,  probably  because  the 
Government  was  fully  occupied  with  an  attack  upon  its  authority 
from  another  quarter,  but,  in  the  following  year,  a  reward  of 
one  hundred  pounds  sterling  was  offered  to  any  one  who  should 
bring  Renwick  in  dead  or  alive.  It  is  sad  to  find  that  during 
those  days  of  trial  and  persecution  Renwick 's  life  was  em- 
bittered by  the  calumnies  of  brethren  who  had  separated  from 
him.  Even  the  Rev.  Alexander  Peden,  his  co-worker  and 
friend,  was  temporarily  estranged;  but  when  Peden  was 
lying  on  his  death-bed  he  sent  for  Renwick,  and  taking 
him  by  the  hand,  he  said : — "  I  find  you  a  faithful  servant  to 
your  Master;  go  on  in  single  dependence  upon  the  Lord,  and 
you  will  win  honestly  through  and  cleanly  off  the  stage  when 
many  others  that  hold  their  head  high  will  fall  and  lie  in  the 
mire,  and  make  foul  hands  and  garments." 

These  persistent  attempts  at  misrepresentation  were  the 
immediate  occasion  of  the  issue  of  what  is  known  as  the  Inf  orma- 
tory  Vindication,  a  defensive  document  approved  by  the 
Societies  at  a  general  meeting  held  at  Friarminion,  in  the  early 
part  of  1687.  During  a  considerable  part  of  this  year  Renwick 
was  occupied  in  testifying  against  the  Toleration,  permitting  men 
to  worship  in  their  own  houses  but  forbidding  them  to  do  so 
in  the  open  fields,  proclaimed  by  James  on  12th  February,  and 
also  renewed  with  slight  alterations  in  June  and  October.  As 
the  woeful  effects  of  this  ensnaring  proclamation  became  more 
and  more  apparent,  Renwick  formed  the  resolution  of  proceed- 
ing to  Edinburgh  that  he  might  place  in  the  hands  of  the 
Moderator  of  the  Presbytery  a  formal  protest  against  the 
Toleration.  During  the  journey  to  Edinburgh  he  proposed  to 
preach  at  Peebles,  but,  his  intention  becoming  known,  he  had 


THE  COVENANTERS.  69 

to  flee  the  town.  A  week  later,  however,  he  was  able  to  preside 
at  two  conventicles  on  the  Braid  Hills  under  the  very  shadow  of 
the  capital.  Other  conventicles  were  held  in  Fife  on  the  22nd 
and  24th  January,  and  at  Bo 'ness  on  the  29th.  On  the  31st  he 
returned  to  Edinburgh,  where  he  lodged  in  the  house  of  a  friend, 
John  Luckup  by  name,  who  lived  in  the  Castlehill.  That 
evening  his  voice  was  overheard  in  prayer  and  recognised. 
Next  morning  the  house  was  surrounded.  He  essayed  to  escape 
by  discharging  a  pistol  over  the  heads  of  those  who  had  come 
to  take  him,  but  after  running  a  short  distance  in  the  direction 
of  the  Cowgate,  he  was  seized  and  committed  a  close  prisoner 
in  irons  to  the  Tolbooth.  On  the  8th  February  he  was  tried 
before  the  High  Court  of  Justiciary  on  an  indictment  which 
charged  him  with  disowning  the  King's  authority,  refusing  to 
pay  the  cess,  and  maintaining  the  lawfulness  of  defensive  arms. 

He  objected  to  the  terms  of  the  indictment,  but  as  "  he 
openly  and  constantly  adhered  to  all  that  he  had  said  before," 
he  was  found  guilty  and  condemned  to  be  executed  in  the  Grass- 
market,  Edinburgh,  on  the  10th  day  of  February.  The  date 
was  afterwards  altered  to  the  17th,  but  the  delay  was  not  of 
Renwick's  seeking,  for,  when  a  reprieve  was  suggested  to  him, 
he  answered  that  his  Master's  time  was  the  best.  In  the 
interval  between  his  sentence  and  his  execution  he  was  visited 
by  many  who  tried  to  induce  him  to  recant,  but  all  their 
blandishments  were  in  vain.  He  was  likewise  visited  by  his 
mother  and  sisters,  and  to  them  he  talked  composedly  of  his 
approaching  death.  "  I  have  many  times  counted  the  cost  of 
following  Christ,"  he  said,  "but  never  expected  it  would  have 
been  so  easy.  .  .  .  Now  I  am  near  the  end  of  time.  I 
desire  to  bless  the  Lord;  it  is  inexpressibly  sweet  and  satisfying 
peace  to  me  that  He  hath  kept  me  from  complying  in  the  least 
with  enemies." 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  he  was  led  forth  to  execution. 
1.  Shields'  Life  of  Renwick,  p.  136. 


70  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Around  the  scaffold  a  great  multitude  had  assembled.  The 
authorities,  well  knowing  how  anxious  the  people  were  to  hear 
him  speak,  gave  orders  for  the  drums  to  beat  while  the  awful 
tragedy  was  being  enacted.  Among  the  last  words  that  were 
heard  from  his  lips  were  these : — "  Lord,  I  die  in  the  faith  that 
Thou  wilt  not  leave  Scotland,  but  that  Thou  wilt  make  the 
blood  of  Thy  Witnesses  the  seed  of  Thy  Church,  and  return 
again  and  be  glorious  in  our  Land." 

Honour  to  the  memory  of  the  Covenanters !  That  they 
were  guilty  of  excesses  no  one  who  is  not  blinded  by  prejudice 
will  be  disposed  altogether  to  deny.  But  when  all  has  been 
said,  their  faults  were  trifling  in  comparison  with  their  excel- 
lencies. When  we  remember  that  many  of  those  who  suffered 
were  plain  country  people,  nothing  is  more  remarkable  than  the 
heights  of  true  eloquence  to  which  they  attained.  In  his  dying 
testimony  Samuel  M'Ewan,  a  Glencairn  lad  of  seventeen,  who 
was  taken  at  Closeburn,  and  executed  at  Edinburgh  August 
15th,  1684,  spoke  thus  : — "  I  am  heartily  content  with  my  lot.  It 
was  my  desire,  though  most  unworthy,  to  die  a  martyr,  and  I 
bless  the  Lord  who  has  granted  me  my  desire.  Now  this  is 
the  most  joyful  day  ever  I  saw  with  mine  eyes.  Farewell,  all 
earthly  enjoyments  and  friends,  in  our  sweet  Lord  Jesus  Christ ; 
and  farewell,  Glencairn,  my  native  parish.  Welcome,  my  sweet 
Saviour;  into  Thy  hands  I  commit  my  spirit,  for  Thou  art  He, 
O  Jehovah,  God  of  Truth,  who  hast  redeemed  me."1  The  same 
cheerful  and  pious  spirit  was  shown  by  Daniel  M'Michael  when 
shot  at  Dalveen.  After  the  napkin  had  been  put  over  his  face 
he  said,  "  Lord,  Thou  broughtest  Daniel  through  many  straits, 
and  hast  brought  me,  Thy  servant,  hither,  to  witness  for  Thee 
and  Thy  cause.  Into  Thy  hands  I  commit  my  spirit,  and  hope 
to  praise  Thee  through  all  eternity."2  Glance  now  at  Alexander 
M'Cubin,  another  of  Glencairn 's  peasant  martyrs,  and  see  how 

1.  Wodrow,  Vol.  IV..  p.  69.        2.  Wodrow,  Vol.  IV.,  p.  240. 


THE  COVENANTERS.  71 

he  bore  himself  at  Irongray.  An  acquaintance  asked  him, 
when  about  to  be  hanged,  if  he  had  any  word  to  send  to  his  wife. 
"  I  leave  her,"  he  replied,  "and  the  two  babes  upon  the  Lord, 
and  to  His  promise;  a  Father  to  the  fatherless,  and  Husband 
to  the  widow,  is  the  Lord  in  His  holy  habitation."1  Finally, 
think  again  of  James  Renwick,  who  perhaps  more  than  any 
other  embodied  the  genius  of  the  Covenant.  When  the  drums 
beat  for  the  guard  to  take  him  to  execution,  he  exclaimed  joy- 
fully, "It  is  the  welcome  warning  to  my  marriage;  the  Bride- 
groom is  coming.  I  am  ready.  I  am  ready.  .  .  .  Lord, 
into  Thy  hands  I  commit  my  spirit,  for  Thou  hast  redeemed 
me,  O  God  of  truth."2 

Thus  the  men  that  lived  and  died  "  for  Christ's  Crown  and 
Covenant  "  have  shed  such  lustre  on  the  story  of  the  parish 
that  we  recognise  the  fitness  of  the  poet's  words : — 
"  Hail,  green  Glencairn !  a  glory  is  round  ye, 
Land  where  our  Covenant  forefathers  trod; 
Mist  of  the  moorland !  my  spirit  hath  found  ye 
Bright  with  the  smile  of  our  Covenant  God." 
On  the  23rd  December,  1688,  James,  fearful  of  the  gathering 
storm  which  his  misgovernment  had  induced,  fled  to  the  Conti- 
nent.    A  Convention  met  and  declared  that  by  his  abuse  of 
power  he  had  forfeited  the  crown;  and  they  proceeded  to  elect 
the  Prince  and  Princess  of  Orange  to  the  vacant  throne.     The 
restoration  of  Presbytery  followed.     At  first  it  was  impossible  to 
find  ministers  for  all  the  churches,  and  Presbyteries  had  difficulty 
in  dealing  with  the  numerous  applications  for  supply.     Among 
others  who  officiated  in  Glencairn  at  this  time  we  find  the  names 
of  Mr  Gabriel  Semple,  of  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  and  Mr  John 
Hepburn,  of  Urr.3     In  1692  the  Rev.  George  Boyd,  A.M.,  was 
inducted  as  minister  of  the  parish,  and  the  people,  after  long 
years  of  stress  and  turmoil,  settled  down  to  worship  God  accord- 
ing to  approved  Presbyterian  rites  and  forms. 

1.  Wodrow,  Vol.  IV.,  p.  240.         2.  Wodrow,  Vol.  IV.,  p.  452. 
3.  Dumfries  Presbytery  Records, 


CHAPTER  VIIL— KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS. 

The  Kirk-Session  Records  of  Glencairn  date  back  to  1693, 
and  afford  some  curious  glimpses  of  the  social  and  religious  life 
of  the  parish.  Nothing  is  more  remarkable  than  the  power  of 
the  Kirk-Session  in  all  matters  affecting  Church  order  and 
morals.  The  procedure  in  cases  of  discipline  seems  to  have 
been  inquisitorial  to  a  degree,  and  even  harsh,  although  it  should 
be  remembered  that  the  times  were  rough  and  called  for  decisive 
and  thorough  methods.  Among  the  offences  dealt  with  are: — 
Adultery  and  Fornication,  Irregular  Marriages,  Witchcraft, 
Drunkenness,  Sabbath-breaking,  Fast-day  Desecration,  Alter- 
ing of  land  marks,  Speaking  disrespectfully  of  Elders,  Scold- 
ing, Cursing  and  Swearing.  In  a  minute  dated  January 
28th,  1694,  a  parishioner  is  solemnly  rebuked  for  "  swearing  at 
ye  curling  on  ye  ice."  At  the  same  sederunt  John  M'Conrick, 
in  Tynron,  is  charged  with  "  dryving  ane  cow  on  ye  Sabath  out 
of  ye  parish  of  Glencarne,"  and  at  a  subsequent  meeting  the 
said  John  appears  to  answer  for  the  offence.  Two  cases  of 
reputed  witchcraft  are  mentioned  in  the  Records,  the  first  under 
date  "Apryl  nynth,"  1694,  the  second  in  a  minute  dated  14th 
Nov.,  1707.  The  earlier  case  promises  to  be  interesting,  but, 
owing  to  a  somewhat  lengthy  break  in  the  Records — 15th  April, 
1694,  to  1st  June,  1701 — curiosity  remains  ungratified.  From 
a  deliverance  anent  "  Drinking  in  Ale-houses,"  dated  18th  June, 
1704,  we  learn  that  "two  elders  per  vices  (in  turn)  were 
appointed  to  go  amongst  the  Houses  each  Sabbath  both  fore- 
noon and  afternoon  to  search  if  there  be  any  keeping  company 
and  drinking  in  tyme  of  sermon."  At  the  same  diet  the  Church 
officer  was  instructed  to  cite  four  men  and  one  woman  to  appear 
in  answer  to  a  charge  of  "scandalous  drinking." 

From    a    minute    of    21st    June,    1702,    we    extract    the 


KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS.  73 

following  anent  persons  desiring  to  be  proclaimed  in  order 
to  marriage : — "  The  Session  considering  that  they  are  many 
times  all  slighted  by  either  not  laying  doun  the  dollars  or 
takeing  cautionrie  for  them  when  persons  are  giveing  up  their 

names  to  be  proclaimed  in  order  to  marriage  (enacts?) 

therefore  and  Appoints  that  no  proclamation  henceforth  be 
allowed  in  this  paroch  untill  first  one  dollar  at  least  be  con- 
sign'd  to  the  Session  or  in  the  hands  of  any  whom  they  shall 
appoint."  On  4th  February,  1705,  we  find  the  Session  record- 
ing their  disapproval  of  "  vagrant  persons  and  strangers  coming 
from  oyr  places  and  takeing  up  there  residence  and  abode  in  the 
paroch,"  and  "people  provyding  themselves  with  servants  "  are 
enjoined  not  to  allow  servants  and  others  under  them  the  benefit 
of  service  and  constant  abode  until  first  they  produce  certificates 
to  the  Session  from  the  place  of  their  former  residence." 

Under  date  27th  May,  1722,  we  meet  with  the  following 
curious  entry  anent  pauper  funerals : — "  The  Session  appoints  to 
the  funeral  of  each  poor  person  within  ye  parish  4  pence  for 
tobacco,  6  pence  for  pipes,  5  groats  for  ale."  At  a  meeting  held 
on  January  4th,  1741,  the  straits  of  the  poor,  consequent  upon  a 
dearth  of  meal,  engaged  the  attention  of  the  Session.  The 
minute  reads : — "  The  Session  having  taken  into  their  considera- 
tion the  present  straits  of  the  poor  through  the  present  dearth 
and  the  Meal -sellers  either  carrying  it  out  of  the  Country  or 
refusing  to  sell  it  in  Small  quantities  as  the  poor  can  buy  it,  and 
having  Draught  of  a  Complaint  to  the  Justices  of  the  Peace  laid 
before  them  they  caused  the  same  to  be  read,  Approved  yrof, 
and  appointed  their  Modr.  to  subscribe  it  in  their  name,  and 
present  it  to  the  Justices  for  their  consideration." 

Valuable  supplementary  references  to  poor  relief,  and  other 
matters  of  Sessional  control,  are  contained  in  two  small  MS. 
volumes,  which  the  writer  of  this  short  history  was  fortunate 
enough  to  discover  among  a  miscellaneous  collection  of  books 


74  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

recently  sold  by  auction  in  the  parish.  The  earlier  of  the  two 
volumes  covers  a  period  of  fifteen  years — 1783  to  1798 — and 
is  entitled  Book  of  Collections  of  Glencairn.  The  second 
volume,  although  bearing  a  different  title,  is  identical  in  charac- 
ter with  the  first.  Both  books  are  divided  into  three  sections: — 
(1)  A  record  of  Church-door  collections;  (2)  An  account  of 
proclamations,  fines,  etc. ;  (3)  A  statement  of  moneys  disbursed 
to  the  poor  and  in  payment  of  miscellaneous  congregational 
expenses.1 

COLLECTIONS. 

The  record  of  the  collections  seems  to  have  been  kept  with 
scrupulous  care  and  regularity.  An  unfortunate  hiatus,  indeed, 
occurs  during  the  summer  of  1792,  but  this  is  adequately  ex- 
plained by  the  following  statement : — "  From  April  1st  (to  Novr. 
16th)  no  accounts  kept  by  the  clerk  on  account  of  his  sickness 
and  death."  For  so  large  a  parish  as  Glencairn  the  amounts  col- 
lected at  the  ordinary  weekly  services  appear  remarkably  small. 
During  the  earlier  period  the  maximum  figure,  where  not  aug- 
mented by  special  donations,  is  13s,  while  the  minimum  is  8d. 
Fortunately  special  contributions  from  the  well-to-do  in  the 
parish  were  by  no  means  infrequent.  Thus,  under  date  May 
21st,  1786,  we  read: — "Collection  as  augmented  by  Craig- 
darroch  £1  8s  2d;"  and  on  January  28th,  1789  :—"  Collection 
as  augmented  by  Mrs  Fergusson  and  Glen,  (probably  Mrs 
Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch  and  the  laird  of  Glencrosh), 
£1  Os  2d."  During  the  later  period  similar  entries  are  met 
with.  Thus,  "  Octo.  29th,  1815,  Collected,  of  which  from  Mr 
Walker,  £1  Is  Od,  £1  18s  Ojd;"  "  Jany.  5th,  1817,  Collected, 
of  which  from  Sir  Robert  Laurie  per  Jedburgh  £1  Is  Od, 
£1  14s  OJd." 

The  outstanding  feature,  however,  in  connection  with  the 
Church-door  collections  is  the  phenomenal  increase  that 
1.  The  books  were  presented  to  the  Kirk-Session  of  Glencairn  in  1909, 


KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS.  75 

occurs  at  Communion  seasons.  During  the  1783-98  period  an 
average  sum  of  close  upon  five  pounds  was  collected,  while 
during  the  1808-19  period  an  average  of  between  eight  and  nine 
pounds  \vas  reached.  These  figures,  especially  when  compared 
with  the  ordinary  collections,  perhaps  point  to  the  fact  that 
some  followed  the  custom,  always  a  regrettable  one,  of  atten- 
dance only  on  such  occasions.  Still  more,  they  are  eloquent  as 
to  the  popularity  of  the  Communion  services,  and  go  far  to 
prove  that  it  was  the  custom  in  Glencairn,  as  elsewhere,  for 
flocks  of  people  to  gather  to  the  Sacrament  from  neighbouring 
parishes.  While  we  are  loth  to  believe  that  the  abuses  described 
by  Burns  in  his  "  Holy  Fair  "  existed  to  any  considerable  extent 
in  our  own  midst,  it  must  be  admitted  that  a  large  influx  of 
strangers  at  those  seasons  cannot  have  been  conducive  to  that 
quiet  which  so  well  becomes  religious  exercises. 

In  the  record  of  the  collections  we  find  some  interesting 
reflections  of  national  events.  For  example : — "  April  23rd, 
1789  (a  Thursday),  Collected  on  the  day  of  Thanksgiving  for 
the  King's  recovery,  7/3$."  "  April  18,  1793,  Collected  on  the 
King's  Fast  Day,  4s  5d  Iqr.  (4/51)."  "March  6,  1796  (a 
Thursday),  Collected  on  a  National  Fast,  3/7$."  Passing  to 
the  strenuous  years  that  culminated  in  the  Battle  of  Waterloo, 
we  find : — 

Jany.  13,  1814.— General  Fast,  5/10$. 
May  15,  1814. — Collected  for  the  German  sufferers,  £14  14s  Od, 

9s. 
Septr.  3,  1815.— -Collected  for  the  Waterloo  Fund,  £21  Os  Od, 

£1  8s  lOd. 

No  doubt  the  sums  9s  and  £1  8s  lOd  represent  the  ordinary 
collections.  We  think  it  will  be  admitted  that  these  special  con- 
tributions are  extremely  creditable  to  -Glencairn.  If  anything  like 
equal  liberality  was  shown  by  other  congregations  throughout 
the  country  a  substantial  sum  must  have  been  available  for  the 


76  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

mitigation  of  suffering  amongst  our  soldiers  and  their  allies. 
It  is  pleasing  to  find,  that  notwithstanding  these  pressing  calls 
the  claims  of  deserving  local  institutions  were  not  forgotten. 
Thus,  under  date  July  9,  1797,  we  read: — "Collected  for 
Infirmary,  £6  6s  Od;  For  Poor,  6s  lid  2qr.  (6/11$);"  and  on 
Aug.  2nd,  1812 — "  No  sermon.  Minr.  preaching  for  the  In- 
firmary." Regular  pulpit  supply,  if  we  may  judge  from  the 
frequency  with  which  "  No  sermon  "  entries  occur,  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  a  matter  of  serious  concern  to  the  Kirk- 
Session.  As  many  as  seven  entries,  on  an  average,  are  to  be 
met  with  in  the  course  of  a  single  year.  One  curious  entry  of 
this  class  occurs  under  date  Novr.  1,  1812: — "No  sermon. 
High  Flood."  As  no  flood,  however  high,  could  have  pre- 
vented the  attendance  of  any  considerable  number  of  people  at 
the  sanctuary,  we  are  probably  justified  in  concluding  that  it 
was  the  minister  who  was  unable  to  reach  the  Church.  We 
know  that  the  manse  was  situated  close  to  the  river  Cairn,  and 
that  it  was  liable  to  be  surrounded  by  water  when  that  stream 
was  in  flood. 

FINES,  PROCLAMATIONS,  ETC. 

While  the  Church-door  collections  were  of  primary  im- 
portance as  a  source  of  revenue,  the  sum  derived  from  penalties 
levied  on  parties  subjected  to  discipline  must  have  formed  a 
considerable  asset.  It  is  not  a  little  startling  to  find  that  down 
to  1819 — the  latest  date  covered  by  these  Records — it  was 
customary  to  punish  by  fine  for  the  sin  of  fornication.  The 
amount  of  the  fine  seems  to  have  varied  according  to  the  heinous- 
ness  of  the  offence,  and  the  means  that  the  parties  implicated 
were  supposed  to  have  at  their  disposal.  The  lowest  sum  men- 
tioned is  2s  6d,  the  highest  £5 ;  while  in  one  case  what  is  called 
a  "  fine  extraordinary  "  is  recorded,  the  amount  being  £2  2s  Od. 
Public  appearance  on  the  stool  of  repentance  continued  in  force 
until  1831.  Penalties  were  likewise  exacted  from  parties  marry- 


KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS.  77 

ing  "  out  of  church."  Between  September,  1793,  and  February, 
1794,  four  fines  for  this  offence  are  mentioned,  and  they  continue 
to  appear,  although  less  frequently,  from  1794  onwards.  The 
et  cetera  embraces  such  varied  sources  of  income  as  special 
donations,  interest  on  loans,  sums  realised  from  the  sale  of 
strayed  sheep,  and  charges  for  the  use  of  the  mort-cloth.  Some 
of  the  benefactions  that  appear  in  this  section  are  of  consider- 
able amount,  and  it  is  pleasing  to  notice  that  most  of  them  are 
from  proprietors  in  the  parish. 

Octr.  16,  1790. — Contributions  from  Cormilligan's  3  sons,  10/6. 
Novr.  14,  1790. — Contributions  from  Capt.  Riddel  and  Wm. 

[Burnet?],  ll/. 
Apl.  10,  1795. — Reed,  from  Sir  Robt.  Laurie  a  benefaction  of 

Five  guineas  for  the  benefit  of  the  poor  in  this  parish. 
Apl.  22,  1795. — Reed,  by  Tererran  a  benefaction  of  two  guineas 

given  by  Mr  Mosman. 
Aug.  25,  1811. — From  John  Gibson  of  Glencrosh  as  a  donation 

to  the  poor,  by  the  late  Mr  Gilbt.  Gibson,  £10. 
July  10,  1812. — From  James  Smith  of  Jedburgh  the  following 

donations  to  the  poor: — Left  by  his  father,  £10;  Brother, 

£10;  Sister,  £5  =  £25. 
Novr.  26,  1815. — From  Terrarran  bequeathed  to  the  poor  of 

this  parish  by  the  late  Mr  Gillespie  of  Peelton — £5  being 

deducted  for  prop,  tax — £45. 
Deer.  18,  1815. — From  Mr  Forbes  for  the  poor  per  Terrarran, 

£5  5s  Od. 
Feby.  29,  1818. — David  Wallace  of  Fleughlarge  donation  £5. 

It  will  be  seen  from  these  extracts  that  the  well-to-do  in 
the  parish  were  not  unmindful  of  their  less  fortunate  neighbours, 
and  if  this .  was  true  of  them  as  individuals  it  was  likewise 
true  in  their  corporate  capacity,  for,  under  date  Aug.  30th, 
1818,  we  read : — "  From  the  Heritors  as  part  of  a  voluntary 
assessment  of  £50  for  the  Poor,  £10."  Donations  for  behoof 


78  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

of  the  poor  seem  to  have  been  customary  both  at  Marriages  and 
at  Baptisms.  The  amounts  are  often  small,  but  no  respect  of 
persons  is  shown,  for  full  particulars  are  invariably  given  as  to 
the  date,  the  nature  of  the  occasion,  and  the  name  of  the  donor. 

INTEREST  ON  LOANS,  ETC. 

It  is  curious  to  find  that  the  Kirk- Session  conducted  a  very 
considerable  business  as  money-changers.  Reference  is  made 
to  no  fewer  than  nine  bills  or  bonds  due  to  the  poor  of  Glen- 
cairn,  and  held  by  the  Session  on  their  behalf,  upon  which 
interest  at  the  rate  of  4  to  5  per  cent,  was  paid  annually.  As 
the  drawees  in  nearly  every  instance  are  landed  proprietors,  it 
may  be  inferred  that  the  Session  was  careful  to  transact  business 
only  with  those  who  could  produce  ample  security. 

Another  curious  source  of  income  is  the  sale  of  strayed 
sheep.  The  earliest  entry  of  this  kind  is  Novr.  14,  1790 — 
"  From  Terreran  for  a  stray  sheep,  2s."  Except  for  the  small- 
ness  of  the  sum  realised,  this  entry  may  be  considered  typical 
of  its  class.  On  subsequent  dates  such  figures  as  9s,  9s  9d,  and 
13s  are  recorded. 

The  only  other  source  of  income  that  calls  for  notice  is  the 
fees  charged  by  the  Kirk-Session  for  the  use  of  the  mort-cloth — 
a  plush  or  woollen  cloth  kept  to  be  laid  on  the  coffin  prior  to 
burial.  The  purchase  of  a  cloth  of  this  kind  was  authorised  in 
1723,  when  the  charge  for  its  use  was  fixed  at  Is  sterling  from 
those  residing  within  the  parish,  and  Is  6d  sterling  from  those 
residing  without.  The  amount  derived  from  the  hire  of  the 
cloth  cannot  have  been  large,  but  it  must  have  helped,  in  a  small 
way,  to  maintain  the  proper  equilibrium  between  income  and 
outlay. 

EXPENDITURE. 

The  most  important  duty  of  the  Kirk-Session  was  the  care 
of  the  poor ;  and  the  details  given  under  the  heading  '  Expendi- 


KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS.  79 

ture  '  are  valuable  as  an  index  of  the  way  in  which  that  duty  was 

performed : — 

Feby.  13,  1795. — Dibursed  extraordinary  to  the  poor  on  acct.  of 

the  inclemency  of  the  season,  £7  3s  Od. 
May   29,   1796.— To  Barbara  M'Lellan  for  her  son  to  go  to 

Moffat  Well,  4s. 
July  10,  1796. — To  Margt.  Smith,  Dunreggan,  for  a  distressed 

child  to  go  to  Moffat  Well,  3s. 
Xovr.  19,  1808.— To  straw  and  labour  for  A.  M'Turk's  house, 

13/. 
Aug.  8,   1812. — |  stone  meal  to  the  following  persons  (eight 

names)  at  56  per  stone. 

It  would  seem  that  alcoholic  stimulants  were  rarely  supplied 
to  the  poor.  Only  three  payments  are  mentioned — two  for 
wine  and  one  for  gin — making  a  modest  total  of  5/10  disbursed 
during  a  period  of  twenty-six  years.  Purchases  of  clothing 
material,  such  as  "  blew  flannan,"  appear  from  time  to  time,  and 
payments  for  "slicing  cloggs  "  and  "scaling  shoes"  are  of 
frequent  occurrence.  Peat  was  evidently  the  staple  fuel  of  the 
parish.  Against  three  payments  for  coal  there  are  twenty  for 
peat,  and  it  is  noteworthy  that  the  payments  for  coal  do  not 
begin  to  appear  until  towards  the  close  of  the  period  covered  by 
the  Records.  A  curious  payment  for  fuel — whether  coal  or  peat 
is  not  stated — occurs  under  date  January  5,  1793 : — "  To  William 
Collow  for  money  laid  out  in  behalf  of  the  late  Jean  Hunter  for 
fewel  (sic)  and  a  winding  sheet,  5s."  A  hearse — probably  the 
first  used  in  Glencairn — was  purchased  in  1784;  the  sum  of 
£6  Is  8d  having  been  paid  in  July  of  that  year  to  "  Will.  Collow 
for  the  Hearse  and  for  a  receipt."  Five  years  later  the  parish 
was  in  possession  of  a  new  Church  bell.  The  cost  of  the  bell 
and  its  erection  is  detailed  as  follows: — 
June  15,  1789.— To  the  Church  Bell,  £9  Os  Od. 
Novr.  12,  1789.— To  Wm.  M'Aul,  Smith,  and  Willm.  Collow, 


80  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Wright,  for  acct.  for  the  Heritors  for  work  at  putting  up 
the  Kirk  Bell,  £1  Is  3Jd. 

June  29th,  1791. — Sum  of  Receivings,  besides  collections,  since 
last  Deal,  To  which  add,  repaid  by  the  Heritors,  for  the 
Kirk  Bell  and  putting  it  up,  as  per  articles  of  Debursement 
June  15th  and  Now.  12th,  1789,  in  the  Treasurer's  Book, 
£10  Is  3d  2qr. 

Apl.  27th,  1794.— To  John  M'Call  for  the  handle  of  the  Bell,  2/. 
From  time  to  time  items  of  expenditure  connected  with  the 
setting  up  of  the  Communion  tent  are  recorded,  thus : — 
June  19th,  1815.— Nails  for  the  tent,  I/. 
June  22nd,  1817.— Setting  up  the  tent,  5/2. 
The  summer  of  1836  was  probably  the  last  occasion  on  which 
the  Communion  was  dispensed  in  the   churchyard.     In   1837 
there  is  no  mention  of  place  in  the  Records,  but  in  1838  and 
subsequent  years  we  find  that  it  was  dispensed  in  the  Church. 

An  entry — tantalising  by  reason  of  its  vagueness — concern- 
ing the  parish  library,  occurs  under  date  January  19th,  1794 : — 
To  the  Kirk  Officer,  Dunscore,  for  intirrfations  about  Glen- 
cairn  Library,  6d. 

The  nature  of  these  intimations  can  only  be  conjectured.  It 
appears  that  a  "compliment  of  books  " — 93  vols.  in  number — 
designed  for  the  beginning  of  a  parochial  library,  was  gifted  to 
the  Kirk-Session  of  Glencairn  by  a  Mr  Ninian  Crichton,  of 
London,  in  1732,  and  that  a  second  donation  of  90  vols.  was 
made  in  1733.  It  is  clear,  therefore,  that  a  library  existed  in 
Glencairn  long  prior  to  1790,  the  year  in  which  the  poet  Burns 
wrote  his  famous  letter  advocating  the  formation  of  parish 
libraries ;  but  whether  there  is  anything  connecting  the  entry  with 
the  Burns  letter,  or  the  Bu'rns  letter  with  the  intimations  made 
at  the  Kirk  of  Dunscore,  it  were  probably  idle  to  inquire. 

A  flood  of  light  is  thrown  upon  the  condition  of  the  school- 
master by  such  entries  as  these : — 


KIRK-SESSION  RECORDS.  81 

Aug.  14,  1791.— To  Jean  Hench  (School  Wages,  1/6),  3/. 
Octr.  15,  1793. — To  Mr  Lorimer,  Schoolmaster,  f  of  a  year's 

school  wages  for  Margt.    Smith's    children    at    1/6    (per 

quarter),  4/6. 

The  following  are  also  illuminative : — 
July  1,  1791.— Postage  letter  from  Dr  Carlyle,  I/. 
(The  writer  was  no  doubt  Dr  Carlyle  of  Inveresk,  the  "  Jupiter 
Carlyle  "  of  Kay's  Edinburgh  Portraits.} 
June  4,  1793.— To  Janet  Goldie  for  bringing  Nelly  Gilchrist's 

Cloaths  from  Thornhill,  6d.     (Thornhill,  it  may  be  men- 
tioned, is  eight  miles  distant  from  Moniaive.) 
March  1,  1795. — To  John  M'Turk  for  carrying  a  poor  man  to 

Dunscore  (seven  miles  distant),  4s. 
Jany.  30,  1796.— To  the  postage  of  a  letter  from  Mr  Forbes, 

inclosing  a  draught  (sic)  of  £5  5s  Od  for  the  poor,  6d. 
June  1,  1817.— Postage  of  a  letter  from  Carlisle,  8£d. 

The  clerk  was  paid  the  modest  salary  of  10s  6d  the  half- 
year.  The  precentor's  remuneration  for  a  like  period  was  5s. 
The  best  paid  man,  and  presumably  the  most  important,  was 
the  "  bedal."  In  a  minute  dated  Novr.  21,  1785,  we  read: — 
"  The  Session  unanimously  agreed  to  augment  the  Sellary  (sic) 
of  the  Kirk -officer  from  sh.10  to  sh.15  ster.  on  account  of 
the  additional  trouble  he  has  with  the  Hearse." 

One  other  curious  fact  connected  with  Church  finance  calls 
for  notice,  and  that  is,  the  Church's  liability  to  loss  from  "  bad 
brass  "  put  into  the  plate  on  Sunday.  In  the  earlier  record  of 
the  collections  we  find  the  following  references  to  the  subject: — 
Sep.  29,  179-1.— Pr.  exchange  of  9sh.  6d  bad  brass  for  4/6  good 

money — lost,  5/. 
July  20,  1795. — To  loss  upon  bad  brass,  2/1. 

In  the  later  volume  there  is  no  improvement : — 
May  19,   1816. — Counterfeit  silver  and  brass  to  be  deducted, 

11/4. 


82 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 


Aug.  25,  1816.— Value  for  bad  Half-pence,  1/2. 
It   is   impossible   to   excuse   the   state   of   matters  revealed  by 
these  entries.     All  that  can  be  said  is  that  Glencairn  was  no 
worse  than  many  other  parishes  throughout  the  country. 

Perhaps  enough  has  now  been  said  in  regard  to  these  old 
Church  Records.  It  will  be  seen  that  they  touch  the  life  of  the 
parish  at  many  points,  and  while  some  regrettable  things  are 
mentioned,  it  will  gladly  be  recognised  that  there  is  not  a  little 
that  calls  for  gratitude. 


CHAPTER  IX.— EDUCATION. 

Glencairn,  in  common  with  every  parish  throughout  Scot- 
land, lies  under  a  debt  of  gratitude  to  John  Knox  for  his  far- 
reaching  and  statesmanlike  policy  with  regard  to  education. 
The  First  Book  of  Discipline  stipulated  that  "everie  several 
church  have  a  scholmaister  appointed,  suche  a  one  as  is  able, 
at  least,  to  teach  Grammar  and  the  Latine  toung."  As  John 
Knox's  proposals  were  ratified  by  legislative  enactment  in  1633, 
it  is  probable  that  a  school  would  soon  afterwards  be  established 
in  Glencairn.  It  is  even  possible  that,  educationally,  our 
parish  was  the  envy  of  neighbouring  communities,  for  it  is 
on  record  that  the  Rev.  William  Brown,  A.M.,  by  his  will 
dated  27th  October,  1636,  left  "  to  the  mantenance  of  ane 
scoole  at  the  Kirk,  100  merks."  In  1725  the  Kirk-Session  of 
Glencairn  had  under  consideration  the  evils  arising  from  non- 
attendance,  and  in  a  minute  dated  Feby.  19th  of  that  year  we 
read: — "  The  Sess.  being  informed  yt.  there  are  se'all  boys  and 
Girls  that  spend  their  time  about  Mills  and  neither  go  to 
School  nor  such  as  are  able  to  work  betake  themselves  to  any 
work.  The  Sess.  Appoynt  intima'ne  be  made  from  the  pulpit 
that  those  of  the  sd  children  who  are  able  to  work  apply  them- 
selves to  it.  Such  as  are  not  able  to  work  and  their  parents 
not  able  to  pay  their  School  Wages  the  Sess.  have  agreed  that 
their  School  Wages  be  payd  out  of  the  collections,  and  that 
with  all  expedition  they  be  disposed  of  as  befor." 

We  learn  from  the  Records  of  the  Presbytery  of  Penpont 
that  the  Presbytery  likewise  was  active  in  the  supervision  of 
education  throughout  the  bounds.  In  1758  it  appears,  from 
a  copy  of  a  sederunt  of  the  Heritors  of  Glencairn  dated  25th 
August,  1758,  printed  in  a  Process  of  Sale  (Craigdarroch 


84  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Estate),  Feby.  23rd,  1797,  that,  "£70  8s  OJd  of  the  funds 
of  the  parish  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  James  Fergusson 
of  Craigdarroch  to  be  applied  towards  the  support  of  an 
English  School  in  the  parish."  Seventy  pounds  Scots  does 
not  seem  a  large  sum  for  the  support  of  education  in 
a  parish  of  the  size  of  Glencairn.  It  must,  however, 
be  remembered  that  schoolmasters  were  very  poorly  paid 
in  those  days,  and  the  allocation  of  this  sum,  small  as  it 
undoubtedly  is,  may  be  accepted  as  proof  that  the  Heritors 
were  prepared  to  advance  the  educational  needs  of  the  district 
according  to  the  means  at  their  disposal. 

NUMBER  AND  DISTRIBUTION  OF  SCHOOLS. 

Our  next  glimpse  of  the  educational  affairs  of  the  parish  is 
obtained  in  1792,  in  which  year  the  Rev.  William  Grierson 
wrote  his  account  of  Glencairn  for  Sir  John  Sinclair's  Statistical 
Account  of  Scotland.  He  says : — "  There  are  two  public 
schools,  the  one  for  Latin,  with  a  legal  salary  of  £8  6s  8d 
sterling,  the  other  for  English,  writing,  and  arithmetic,  with  a 
salary  of  £4,  by  private  donation.  These  schools  used  to  be 
kept  at  the  Church,  and  at  Minniehive,  four  years  alternately 
at  each,  by  order  of  the  heritors ;  but  that  rotation  has  not 
been  observed  for  several  years  past."  Further  interesting 
information  bearing  upon  this  departure  is  contained  in  a 
minute  of  the  Heritors  dated  9th  April,  1802,  where  it 
is  stated  that  "  there  was  presented  ^to  the  meeting  two 
petitions  subscribed  by  Sundry  Heritors  and  heads  of  families, 
one  of  them  praying  to  have  the  School  removed  down  to  Glen- 
cairn Kirk  agreeable  to  the  former  practise  and  agreement  of 
the  Heritors,  and  the  other  that  it  should  be  continued  at 
Minniaive,  where  it  now  is."  It  appears  from  this  that  the 
school  had  been  removed  without  proper  authority  to  Moniaive, 
and  that  certain  of  the  parishioners  were  no  longer  prepared  to 


EDUCATION.  85 

acquiesce  in  the  arrangement.  Following  upon  their  action  we 
find  from  a  minute  dated  the  first  day  of  October  following 
that  it  was  agreed  "  to  set  on  foot  a  subscription  paper  for  the 
purpose  of  having  an  additional  schoolmaster  in  the  parish  of 
Glencairn." 

The  sequel  is  interesting.  "  27th  July,  1804. — The  meet- 
ing unanimously  resolved  and  appointed,  that  as  the  Parish 
of  Glencairn  is  of  very  great  extent,  as  one  School  could 
not  possibly  accomodate  the  whole  Parish,  and  as  there  has 
been  two  Schools  in  it  for  many  years,  and  sometimes  three,  the 
two  Schools  shall  be  continued  in  it  in  their  present  stations, 
the  principal  in  the  present  Schoolhouse  at  Minniehive,  the 
second  one  in  the  present  Schoolhouse  at  the  church,  and  a 
third  one  of  an  ambullary  nature  to  accomodate  the  inhabitants 
near  the  heads  of  the  three  waters  of  Dalwhat,  Craigdarroch, 
and  Castlefairn,  who  are  too  great  a  distance  from  the  Schools. 
That  the  station  of  the  school  in  Dalwhat  water 
shall  not  be  above  Benbowie  and  not  below  Drumloff.  That 
the  station  in  Castlefairn  water  shall  not  be  above  Castlefairn, 
nor  below  Craigneston,  and  that  in  Craigdarroch  water  not 
above  Knockachlie  nor  below  Craigdarroch.  The  meeting  also 
appointed  that  the  School  should  be  kept  in  the  above  Station 
on  the  water  of  Dalwhat  for  the  first  year,  on  that  on  the  water 
of  Castlefairn  for  the  second  year,  and  on  that  on  the  water  of 
Craigdarroch  for  the  third  year,  and  regularly  to  return  to  the 
said  Stations  in  the  above  order  in  all  the  subsequent  years."1 

The  new  arrangement  remained  in  force  for  upwards  of  a 
quarter  of  a  century,  an  excellent  proof  that  the  work  of  re- 
organization had  been  well  and  carefully  done;  but  a  fresh 
and  apparently  unforeseen  development  was  impending.  In 
a  minute  dated  21st  April,  1829,  we  read: — "The  meeting  are 
unanimously  of  opinion  that  the  three  schools  should  be  con- 
1.  Minutes  oj  the  Heritors  of  Glencairn, 


86  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

tinued  in  the  Parish  as  formerly,  viz.,  one  at  Minniaive,  one  at 
Glencairn  Kirk,  and  the  third  alternately  as  heretofore  in  the 
three  waters  of  Craigdarroch,  Dalwhat,  and  Castlefairn,  and 
under  these  circumstances  they  find  by  a  reference  to  the  fore- 
said  Act  (43  George  5,  Cap.  54)  that  the  salary  for  two  or 
more  schools  must  be  the  value  of  three  chalders  of  Oat  Meal 
at  the  rate  of  seventeen  pounds  two  shillings  and  twopence 
farthing  each,  and  making  a  total  of  Fifty  one  pounds  six 
shillings  and  sixpence  three  farthings.  The  Rev.  Mr  Brown 
moved,  which  was  seconded  by  Mr  Barber  (Tererran),  that  of 
this  sum  twenty-five  pounds  thirteen  shillings  and  four  pen  ,e 
stg.  should  be  appropriated  to  the  school  at  Minniehive,  seven- 
teen pounds  two  shillings  and  two  pence  stg.  to  the  School  at 
Kirkland  of  Glencairn,  and  eight  pounds  eleven  shillings  and 
one  penny  to  the  School  to  be  kept  in  manner  foresaid  in  the 
three  waters  above  mentioned,  of  which  appropriation  the 
meeting  approved." 

Exactly  a  year  and  a  day  later  the  same  heritors  as 
had  unanimously  agreed  to  continue  the  school  at  Kirkland 
as  formerly,  decided  to  transfer  the  said  school  to  Cross- 
ford  Bridge.  The  occasion  of  the  change  is  set  forth  in 
a  minute  dated  22nd  April,  1830.  "  Sir  Robert  Laurie  stated 
that  since  the  Society  for  Propagating  Christian  knowledge  had 
abolished  the  School  at  Glenriddle,  a  great  number  of  the 
children  in  the  lower  end  of  the  Parish  were  deprived  of  the 
means  of  education.  He  (Sir  Rob.  Laurie)  would  therefore 
move  that  the  school  at  the  end  of  the  church  should  be  re- 
moved as  far  down  the  Parish  as  Crossford  Bridge,  and  if  the 
Heritors  agreed  to  his  motion  he  would  most  willingly  give  them 
a  site  for  the  building."  The  meeting,  we  are  told,  "unani- 
mously agreed  to  Sir  Robert  Laurie's  motion,  and  decided  to 
receive  plans  of  said  schoolhouse  and  accommodation  for  the 
Teacher."  From  a  subsequent  minute  it  appears  that  the 


EDUCATION.  87 

Society  for  Propagating  Christian  Knowledge  had  directed 
their  Factor,  Mr  Thomas  Smith,  "  to  discharge  the  account  for 
some  extra  work  done  to  and  at  the  School-house  at  Crossford 
Bridge  amounting  to  about  £20,"  and  also  to  present  "the 
desk,  forms,  etc.,  from  their  former  school  at  Glenriddle." 

Coming  down  to  1835,  the  date  of  the  New  Statistical  Account, 
we  find  that  further  interesting  developments  had  taken  place. 
The  Rev.  John  Brown,  writer  of  the  article  on  Glencairn,  says : 
— "  There  are  five  schools  in  this  parish,  of  which  three  are 
parochial  and  two  unendowed.  Latin  and  Greek  are  taught  at 
the  parochial  schools.  The  joint  salaries  of  the  parochial 
schoolmasters  amount  to  £51  6s  8d.  The  first  and  second  may 
receive  each  £20  a-year  of  fees;  and  the  third  £14.  This  sum 
is  unequally  divided  amongst  the  teachers — the  first  having 
£25  13s  4d;  the  second,  £17  2s  2Jd;  and  the  third,  £8  11s  Id. 
As  the  heritors  pay  the  maximum  salary  none  of  the  teachers 
can  claim  a  dwelling-house." 

In  1856  the  question  of  the  erection  of  a  new  school  at 
Moniaive  engaged  the  attention  of  the  Heritors.  The  matter 
was  first  mooted  at  a  meeting  held  on  the  twenty-first  of 
February,  but  the  proposal  did  not  take  definite  shape  until 
the  eighteenth  December  following,  when  a  meeting  of  Heri- 
tors was  called  "  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  the  report  of  the 
Committee  appointed  21st  Feb.  last  for  looking  out  for  a  site 
for  the  proposed  new  school."  The  minute  proceeds: — 
"  Mr  M'Call  proposed  the  piece  of  ground  belonging  to  Mrs 
Barber  provided  it  could  be  got  at  a  reasonable  sum,  say  £60 
or  £70,  which  was  seconded  by  Mr  Barber  of  Tererran.  .  . 
Mr  M'Turk  did  not  approve  of  the  site  as  the  best  but  gave  way 
for  the  sake  of  unanimity.  .  .  .  The  meeting  afterwards 
appointed  a  committee  for  the  purpose  of  conferring  with  Mrs 
Barber  and  her  son  as  to  the  exact  price  of  the  property — to 
procure  plans  of  a  schoolhouse  to  accomodate  say  100  scholars 


88  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

with  the  probable  expense — also  to  correspond  if  necessary 
with  Mr  Williamson  to  ascertain  what  he  would  give  his  pro- 
perty for,  and  to  report  to  an  adjourned  meeting  to  be  held 
here  (Minnyhive)  on  the  2d  day  of  Feb.,  1857,  at  12  o'clock 
noon."  Final  details  in  the  negotiations  are  awanting,  but  it 
appears  from  the  title  deeds  that  the  purchase  was  completed 
27th  May,  1857.  On  Mrs  Barber's  property  in  Chapel  Street 
the  school  was  accordingly  erected.  In  these  days  the  old 
school  at  Grainshead  serves  a  humble  but  kindly  purpose. 
From  aiding  the  education  of  the  parish  youth  it  has  come  to 
shelter  the  sick  and  wandering  poor. 

With  the  passing  of  the  Education  Act  of  1872  a  new  era 
opened  in  the  educational  history  of  Scotland.  For  the  first 
time  school  management  was  placed  upon  a  popular  and  repre- 
sentative basis,  and  a  great  impetus  was  thus  given  to  education 
all  over  the  country.  In  our  own  parish  handsome  new  schools 
have  been  erected  at  Moniaive  and  at  Crossford,  while  at  Craig- 
muie  important  additions  have  been  made  so  as  to  provide 
adequate  accommodation  for  scholars  drawn  from  the  more 
outlying  portions  of  Balmaclellan,  Dairy,  and  Glencairn 
parishes.  By  means  of  these  three  schools  it  has  been  found 
possible  to  provide  suitable  elementary  education  for  every 
child  in  the  district.  The  present  School  Board  is  composed 
of  the  following  five  members :— Captain  George  Laurie  Walker 
of  Crawfordton  (Chairman) ;  William  Barber  of  Tererran ;  Cecil 
Emilius  Laurie,  Jarbruck;  John  M'Cheyne,  Ingleston;  William 
Irving,  Borland. 

GRIERSON  GLENCAIRN  BURSARY. 

The  only  educational  endowment  is  known  as  the  Grierson 
Bequest,  and  is  derived  from  certain  funds  left  by  James 
Grierson  of  Beechhill  in  1857.  In  1889  the  Commissioners 
appointed  under  the  Educational  Endowments  (Scotland)  Act, 
1882,  made  a  number  of  alterations  in  the  administration  of 


EDUCATION.  89 

the  Trust.  The  principal  provisions  of  the  scheme,  as 
amended  by  the  Commissioners,  are  as  follow : — Governing 
Body — "  The  governing  body  shall  consist  of  five  persons,  of 
whom  one  shall  be  the  Minister  of  the  Parish  of  Glencairn,  one 
shall  be  elected  by  the  Minister  and  Kirk-Session  of  the  Parish 
of  Glencairn,  two  shall  be  elected  by  the  School  Board  of  the 
said  Parish,  and  one  shall  be  elected  by  the  Presbytery  of  Pen- 
pont."  Application  of  Income — "The  governing  body  shall 
apply  the  free  income  of  the  Endowment  in  establishing  a 
bursary  for  university  education,  which  shall  be  called  the 
Grierson  Glencairn  Bursary,  and  shall  be  awarded  by  competi- 
tive examination  among  those  who  have  been  pupils  in  public 
or  State-aided  schools  in  the  parish  of  Glencairn  for  at  least 
three  years  at  any  period  prior  to  the  date  of  examination. 
The  bursary,  which  shall  consist  of  the  free  annual  income 
after  deduction  of  necessary  expenses,  burdens,  and  taxes 
affecting  the  Endowment,  but  shall  not  in  any  case  exceed  the 
sum  of  £25,  shall  be  tenable  for  such  period  not  exceeding 
three  years,  as  the  governing  body  may  from  time  to  time  deter- 
mine, at  a  university  to  be  approved  by  the  governing  body. 
If  in  any  year  no  qualified  candidate  shall  appear  for  the 
bursary  established  in  the  immediately  preceding  section,  the 
governing  body  shall  apply  a  sum  of  not  less  than  £15  and 
not  more  than  £20  in  giving  a  bursary  for  higher  education, 
which  shall  be  called  the  Grierson  Glencairn  Bursary,  and  shall 
be  awarded  by  competitive  examination  among  those  who  have 
been  pupils  in  public  or  State-aided  schools  in  the  parish  of 
Glencairn  for  at  least  three  years  at  any  period  prior  to  the 
date  of  examination,  and  whose  age  at  the  date  of  competition 
shall  not  exceed  fourteen  years.  The  bursary  shall  be  held  for 
two  years  at  the  Wallace  Hall  Academy  or  such  school  for 
higher  education  or  technical  instruction  as  the  governing  body 
may  approve."  In  a  subsequent  section  it  is  set  forth,  that  if 
in  any  year  no  candidate  appears  who  is  qualified  in  terms  of 


90  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

either  of  the  two  immediately  preceding  sections,  the  govern- 
ing body  is  empowered  "  to  receive  applications  from  those  who 
have  been  pupils  in  public  or  State-aided  schools  within  the 
bounds  of  the  Presbytery  of  Penpont. ' ' 

SCHOOLMASTERS. 

A  list  of  the  schoolmasters  of  the  parish — approximately 
if  not  absolutely  complete — compiled  from  the  Kirk-Session 
Records  of  Glencairn,  Glencairn  Free  Kirk-Session  Record,  the 
Minutes  of  the  Heritors  of  Glencairn,  and  the  Presbytery  Book 
of  Penpont,  may  be  of  interest  to  many  in  the  parish : — 

James  Aikman   appointed  1694. 

Thomas  Boston  ,,  1696. 

John  Gilchrist „  1699. 

John  Grier  ,,  1701. 

Archibald  Hadden  „  1718.  (?) 

(Blank  in  Presbytery  Records.) 

John  Laurie  appointed  1722. 

James  Brown prior  to  1726. 

(In  1726  he  was  appointed  under-teacher  in 
the  Grammar  School,  Dumfries.) 

William  Douglas   appointed  1735. 

James   Hunter    ,,  1745. 

Robert  Davidson   prior  to  1747. 

Thomas  Gray   ...  appointed  1756. 

James  Murdoch  ,,  1759. 

Daniel  Martin  prior  to  1762. 

John  Fergusson  demitted  1768. 

John  Brown  prior  to  1780. 

James  Gordon   appointed  1788. 

George  Lorrimer   prior  to  1793. 

Robert  Gorden   appointed  1802. 

John  Harkness   „  1804, 


EDUCATION.  91 

Charles  Ramage   demitted  1808. 

David  Morrine  appointed  1823. 

John  Hastings  demitted  1824. 

George  Hunter   appointed  1824. 

Adam  Crinzean  ,,         1832. 

William  Gibson  „         1841. 

Adam  Semple  ,,         1864. 

John  Connacher  ,,         1885. 

Kirkpatrick   Hunter   ,,         1888. 

Peter  Jamieson   ,,         1891. 

James  Ellis  Steele  „         1900. 

FREE  CHURCH  SCHOOLMASTERS. 

Uzziah  Donachy  (?)  appointed  1843. 

George  Bell „         1843. 

Alexander  (?)  Haining  ,,         1845. 

George  Proudfoot  ,,         1846. 

William  Fairley  „         1849. 

Thomas  Wilson  „         1856. 

The  regular  schools  were  supplemented  by  private,  or,  as 
they  were  commonly  called,  "adventure"  schools.  These 
"adventure  "  schools  were  often  conducted  by  women.  Thus, 
in  An  Abridged  Statistical  History  of  Scotland,  by  Jas.  Hooper 
Dawson  (1853),  we  read  that  in  1837  Glencairn  had  three 
parish  schools  with  an  attendance  of  148,  and  two  female  schools 
with  an  attendance  of  70.  Poorly  equipped  as  such  "  adven- 
ture "  schools  were,  they  did  a  good  work  in  their  day,  and 
many  still  living  are  ready  to  testify  that  to  them  they  owe  the 
better  part  of  their  education. 


CHAPTER  X.— THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745. 

•  The  important  part  played  by  Glencairn  in  quelling  the 
insurrectionary  movements  of  1715  and  1745  forms  an  interest- 
ing chapter  in  the  local  annals.  No  one  who  follows  the  course 
of  these  Rebellions  can  fail  to  recognise  that  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  Scottish  people  was  deeply  attached  to  the 
Stuart  dynasty.  In  Glencairn,  however,  the  bloody  persecu- 
tion instituted  by  King  Charles  II.  was  too  fresh  in  the  mind 
of  the  people  for  them  to  countenance  any  effort  that  aimed 
at  the  restoration  of  a  Stuart  to  the  throne.  No  sooner, 
indeed,  were  the  mutterings  of  rebellion  heard  than  Mr 
Alexander  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch,  and  certain  other 
influential  gentlemen  in  the  south  and  west,  convened  a  meeting 
for  the  purpose  of  devising  measures  of  defence.  The  gathering 
was  held  at  Dalmellington  on  the  18th  March,  1714.  Rae  says 
that  among  other  important  steps  taken,  one  Wm.  Scot,  a 
serjeant  in  the  Castle  of  Edinburgh,  was  sent  for  by  the 
gentlemen  and  ministers  in  the  Presbytery  of  Penpont,  to  assist 
in  training  their  people.1  The  wisdom  of  this  step  soon  became 
evident. 

The  Earl  of  Mar,  having  completed  his  preparations  in  the 
north,  contemplated  a  descent  upon  the  Lowlands.  With  the 
view  of  preventing  this,  and  also,  if  possible,  of  extinguishing  the 
Rebellion  at  its  birthplace,  the  Duke  of  Argyle,  the  Royalist 
commander-in-chief,  formed  a  camp  at  Stirling  and  summoned 
the  friends  of  King  George  throughout  the  country  to  meet  him 
there. 

The  following  is  the  text  of  a  letter2  addressed  by  the  Duke 
to  Mr  Alexander  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch : — 

1.  Rae's  Hist,  of  Rebellion,  p.  43. 
2.  Ibid.,  p,  229. 


THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745.  98 

Edinburgh,  16th  Sept.,  1715. 

SIR, — Since  my  arrival  at  this  Place,  having  received 
certain  Information;  that  the  disaffected  Highlanders,  and  the 
King's  other  enemies  are  assembled  in  a  considerable  Body, 
and  in  a  rebellious  manner  threaten  the  Government,  I  have 
not  thought  it  safe  to  trust  entirely  to  the  number  of  Troops 
that  are  at  present  in  this  Country;  and  therefor  I  have 
called  for  the  Assistance  of  the  well-affected  Boroughs  first 
judging  they  might  more  easily  come  out  than  the  Country 
because  of  the  Harvest.  Your  Lord  Lieutenant  not  being  yet 
come  down  to  give  Orders  for  drawing  out  such  other  of  the 
well-affected  People  as  should  be  thought  necessary  :  And  I 
being  convinced  of  your  Zeal  and  good  Inclination  to  serve  our 
King  &  Country  and  looking  upon  you  as  my  particular 
Friend;  I  apply  to  you  on  this  Occasion  and  desire  you  would 
forthwith  come  to  Stirling,  with  what  number  of  well-armed  men 
you  can  get  together  to  join  the  King's  Regular  Forces.  This 
will  be  of  infinite  service  to  his  Majesty,  and  will  not  fail  to  be 
acknowledged  as  such. 

Since  the  King's  Enemies  are  gathering  together,  it  will 
be  highly  for  his  Majesty's  service,  that  all  the  well-affected  Men 
in  your  Country  that  are  armed,  should  hold  themselves  in 
readiness  to  march,  and  even  to  begin  to  assemble.  Though 
your  Number  of  Men  be  not  at  first  to  your  wish,  yet,  you  may 
march  what  you  can  get  together,  and  they  may  still  be  in- 
creasing as  the  necessity  of  Affairs  requires. 

I  am,  Sir, 
Your  Most  faithful  and  obedient  Servant, 

ARGYLE. 

Prompt  action  followed  receipt  of  this  letter.  To  quote 
again  from  the  historian  Rae: — 

"  As  soon  as  Craigdarroch  had  received  this  Letter,  he 
acquainted  the  well-affected  Gentlemen  and  People  therewith; 


94  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

and  apply 'd  himself  carefully  to  draw  together  what  Men  he 
could  get  on  a  sudden,  for  His  Majesty's  Service:  And  about 
60  Men  in  the  Paroches  of  Glencairn  and  Tinron  (who  were 
sufficiently  provided  with  Firelocks,  Swords,  and  Bayonets,  and 
other  necessary  Accoutrements)  having  inlisted  themselves  to  go 
to  Stirling;  He  prevail'd  with  John  Gibson  of  Auchinchain,  to 
be  their  Captain,  assign'd  them  their  other  proper  Officers;  and 
provided  them  also  with  Drum  &  Colours.  Upon  the  22d  of 
September  they  set  out  from  Minyive,  and  marched  to  the  Keir 
Moss  not  far  from  Penpont,  where  the  People  of  the  Neigh- 
bouring Parishes  were  assembl'd  in  Arms,  with  Sir  Thos.  Kirk- 
patrick  of  Closeburn,  James  Grierson  of  Capinoch,  John 
Dalrymple  of  Waterside,  Thomas  Hunter  of  Bateford,  and 
several  other  Gentlemen  and  Ministers  of  these  Parishes.  Being 
arrived  there,  he  set  up  the  Standard,  desiring  such  as  were 
willing  to  go  with  him  to  turn  into  it ;  at  the  same  Time  shewing 
them  the  Justice  of  the  Cause  and  the  Necessity  of  this  Under- 
taking for  the  Defence  of  their  Religion,  Liberties,  and  Country, 
as  well  as  of  their  only  rightful  Soveraign  King  George,  as 
Motives  to  induce  them  to  comply  with  his  Desire.  The 
Gentlemen  likewise  encourag'd  them  to  it;  and  particularly  Sir 
Thomas  Kirkpatrick,  who  in  a  handsome  Speech  to  the  People 
promis'd  to  such  of  'em  as  were  his  own  Tenants,  that  he 
would  defray  their  Charges  in  going  and  coming,  and  give  each 
of  them  Eightpence  a  Day,  while  they  .attended  the  Camp. 
Hereupon  severals  turn'd  in  to  the  Standard,  and  many  others 
shew'd  'emselves  willing,  but  that  they  could  not  yet  go, 
because  of  their  Harvest,  which  was  that  Year  very  late,  and 
because  they  had  got  so  short  Advertisement. 

"  Next  Day  Craigdarroch  and  his  Men  set  forward  in  their 
Way  to  Stirling,  to  which  Place  he  was  accompani'd  by  the  said 
Thomas  Hunter  of  Bateford,  Robert  M'gachan  of  Dalquhat,  Mr 
Simon  Riddel,  Minister  of  Tinron,  Mr  John  Pollock,  Minister 


THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745.  95 

of   Glencairn,    Mr   James    Hunter,  Minister  of  Dornock;    and 
several  others.     He  stay'd  at  Stirling  till  he  was  ordered  by 
the  Duke  of  Argyle  to  come  Home,  and  take  care  of  the  Affairs 
of  the  Country;  and  then  he  returned  leaving  the  Men  there, 
for  Eight  Weeks  Time,   who  did  Duty  all  the  while,  as  the 
Regular  Troops  did,  in  the  Castle  of  Stirling  as  the  General 
directed."1 

It  would  appear  that  a  portion  of  these  volunteers  from 
Glencairn  and  Tynron,  possibly  such  as  could  not  conveniently 
go  to  Stirling,  were  appointed  to  do  duty  at  Dumfries;  and  in 
the  Treasurer's  Accounts  of  Dumfries  Town  Council  we  find 
certain  entries  of  refreshments  supplied  to  them  at  the  town's 
charges. 
Oct.  31,  1715. 

To  Glenekern  men  and  Tinran  men  for  Bread  to 

them  by  the  provist's  order  ...         ...         ...  £0     2     6 

Nov.  4,  1715. 

To  Dallwhat  for  Glenkern  and  Tinran  men  for 

drink  to  them  by  bailley  hynds  order       ...     0     7     6 
Nov.  7,  1715. 

To  John  Gordon  which  he  gave  to  his  own  Com- 
pinie   and   Craigdarouch's   at   Loughmaben 
gate  poort  by  the  provist's  orders  ...         ...     0     6     6 

The  comparatively  large  outlay  for  "  drink  ' '  as  compared 
with  "  bread  ' '  invites  comment,  but  it  is  probably  no  more 
than  a  reflex  of  the  usages  of  the  times. 

Turning  from  this  interesting  glimpse  of  the  men  of  Glen- 
cairn leaving  Moniaive  with  drums  beating  and  colours  flying, 
and  their  doing  garrison  duty  at  Stirling  for  eight  weeks  "  as 
the  regular  troops  did,"  we  find  that  in  the  interval  the 

1.  It  may  be' of  interest  to  state  that  the  "  General "  mentioned  by 
Rae  was  the  Honourable  Colonel  John  Blackader,  a  son  of  Glencairn, 
who  had  emerged  from  his  well-earned  retirement  to  take  command  of 
the  volunteers  from  the  south  and  west  (see  Chap.  XII.,  p.  113). 


96  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

insurrectionary  movement  had  well  nigh  spent  itself.  The 
Jacobites  had  declared  their  intention  of  burning  the  house  of 
Craigdarroch,  and  the  houses  of  others  who  went  to  Stirling ; 
the  county  town  had  likewise  been  threatened;  but  all  these 
brave  boastings  came  to  nothing.  By  the  middle  of  November 
the  rebel  cause  was  crushed  in  the  south,  and  a  few  months  later 
the  Pretender  was  a  fugitive  in  France. 

THE  TORTY-FIVE. 

To  the  later  and  more  serious  Rebellion  of  1745  we  need 
not  refer  further  than  it  concerns  the  local  history.  At  the 
time  of  this  second  rising  Mr  James  Fergusson,  younger  of 
Craigdarroch,  was  Commissioner  to  the  Duke  of  Queensberry, 
and  from  letters  addressed  by  Mr  Fergusson  to  His  Grace,  we 
glean  valuable  information  as  to  the  course  of  events  in  Niths- 
dale. 

In  a  letter  dated  2nd  September,  1745,  apparently  written 
by  Mr  Fergusson  after  attending  a  meeting  of  the  Commissioners 
of  Supply,  he  refers  to  the  good  inclination  of  the  people  as 
evidenced  by  "their  desire  to  have  arms  put  in  their  hands," 
and  adds : — "  I  go  to  Drumlanrig  to-morrow,  and  as  the  post 
does  not  go  from  this  till  Wednesday,  I  have  left  this  with 
Commissary  Goldie,  that  if  anything  further  occur  twixt  now 
and  then  he  may  add  it." 

Subsequently  a  committee  was  appointed  to  confer  with  the 
Presbytery  on  the  crisis,  and  in  a  minute  of  a  meeting,  held  at 
Dumfries  on  4th  September,  we  read  that  "  the  Presbytery 
agreed,  and  recommended  to  each  minister  of  the  bounds  to 
take  the  most  prudent  method  in  their  several  parishes  to  get 
an  account  of  the  number  of  arms  and  fencible  men  in  their 
respective  parishes,  and  to  bring  in  a  report  thereanent." 
Notwithstanding  energetic  action  on  the  part  of  the  ministers, 
considerable  apathy  was  shown  by  other  members  of  the  com- 
munity, with  the  result  that,  at  the  end  of  three  months,  very 


THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745.  97 

little  progress  had  been  made  in  the  direction  designed.     The 
county  was  soon  to  pay  dearly  for  this  inaction. 

When  Charles  retreated  from  Derby  he  crossed  the  Esk 
at  Longtown.  A  portion  of  his  forces  then  proceeded  north- 
wards, but  the  main  body,  led  by  himself,  marched  upon 
Dumfries.  He  entered  the  town  without  opposition,  and  forth- 
with demanded  a  money  payment  of  no  less  a  sum  than  two 
thousand  pounds  sterling.  The  Burgh  was  further  required  to 
deliver  one  thousand  pairs  of  shoes,  together  with  all  arms, 
"  against  eight  o'clock  the  following  night."  Sir  Robert  Laurie 
of  Maxwelton,  Glencairn,  and  a  number  of  other  gentlemen 
came  handsomely  to  the  aid  of  the  Burgh  at  this  juncture,  but, 
despite  the  most  strenuous  efforts,  the  sum  of  £1195  was  all 
that  could  be  raised  by  the  time  stipulated,  and  when  Prince 
Charles  left  Dumfries  the  following  day  he  carried  with  him  Mr 
Walter  Riddle  of  Glenriddle  and  Ex-Provost  Crosbie  as  hostages 
for  payment  of  the  balance.  These  gentlemen  were  afterwards 
liberated,  but  not  until  the  Prince's  demands  had  been  met  in 
full. 

The  course  of  events  during  the  closing  days  of  December, 
1745,  is  outlined  by  Mr  Fergusson  in  a  letter  to  His  Grace 
dated  the  28th  of  the  month: — 

"  Since  I  wrote  your  Grace,  the  18th  of  this,  the  face  of 
affairs  is  much  changed  here.  Upon  Friday,  the  20th,  the 
Highland  army  crossed  Esk,  and  part  of  them  came  that  night 
within  8  miles  of  Dumfries.  The  21st  the  greatest  part  of 
them  came  to  Dumfries,  the  rest  having  gone  to  Moffat,  and  a 
few  came  that  night  within  8  miles  of  this.  The  22nd  a  few 
came  to  Thornhill,  but  most  of  them  remained  in  Dumfries. 
The  23rd,  they  came  all  here  and  to  the  adjacent  villages. 
The  24th,  they  left  and  went  to  Douglas,  only  some  part  of 
them  lodged  that  night  in  Leadhills  and  Wanlockhead,  and 
some  near  Sanquhar.  The  25th,  forty  of  them  entered  Glasgow 
and  demanded  quarter  for  their  whole  Army  in  the  kirks, 


98  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

meeting  houses,  and  other  publick  buildings,  and  said  they 
would  not  go  into  private  houses.  I  have  yet  heard  nothing 
further  of  their  route.  At  Dumfries  they  behaved  very  rudely, 
strip 'd  everybody  almost  of  their  shoes,  obliged  the  town  to 
give  them  £2000  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  shoes,  and 
carried  away  Provost  (Ex-Provost)  Crosbie  and  Mr  Walter 
Riddell,  Merchants,  as  hostages  for  £1000  more,  which  was 
yesterday  sent  them  to  relieve  these  gentlemen. 

"  I  was  at  Thornhill,  the  21st,  in  the  morning  (when  I 
heard  of  their  approach)  with  a  company  of  100  men,  which  I 
mentioned  in  my  last,  and  about  50  Seceders.  I  retired  here 
and  keepd  them  together  till  the  evening,  when  I  had  certain 
advice  the  greater  part  of  the  Highland  Army  was  in  Dumfries, 
and  that  everybody  had  laid  down  their  arms;  upon  which  I 
dismissed  the  people  and  desired  them  to  secure  their  arms 
and  horses.  The  22nd,  in  the  morning  I  left  this  (Drumlanrig) 
with  all  my  family  except  9  servants  by  daybreak,  and  went 
to  my  fathers  house  at  Craigdarroch.  The  23rd,  about  seven 
in  the  morning,  two  letters  from  Murray,  their  Secretary,  and 
another  from  one  Riddell,  a  Fife  gentleman  and  an  acquaint- 
ance of  mine,  who  is  with  them,  were  brought  here,  and  sent 
from  this  by  express  to  Craigdarroch,  where  they  found  me 
about  ten.  The  contents  were  telling  me  their  Prince  was  to 
lodge  here  that  night,  and  requiring  me  to  provide  quarters 
for  their  whole  Army  in  this  house  and  the  adjacent  village. 
They  neither  mentioned  their  numbers  nor  directed  me  what 
quantity  was  to  be  got,  but  only  desired  I  would  cause  kill  a 
great  number  of  blade  cattel  and  sheep,  and  provide  a  great 
quantity  of  meal.  I  retired  immediately  into  the  Galloway  hills, 
about  8  miles  further,  without  giving  them  any  answer,  and 
carried  the  person  who  brought  me  the  letters  with  me.  .  .  . 
I  returned  the  25th  about  eleven  at  night,  and  found  most  of 
the  house  worse  than  I  could  possibly  imagine  before  I  saw  it. 


THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745.  99 

.     .     .     .     May  God  grant  there  may  never  be  any  such  guests 

here " 

Under  date  7th  January,  1746,  Mr  Fergusson  again  writes 
to  the  Duke : — "  I  mentioned  in  my  last  that  I  had  wrote  the 
25th  Decbr.  to  His  Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  Cumberland 
offering  to  do  everything  in  my  power  for  forwarding  his  Army 
should  it  come  this  way,  and  that  I  waited  his  orders.  I  sent 
him  enclosed  the  two  letters  I  got  from  the  Highlanders 
requiring  me  to  provide  quarters  for  them  here.  Mr  William 
Kirkpatrick,  Sir  Thomas'  Brother,  and  my  Father,  who  were 
then  with  me  at  Craigdarroch,  wrote  another  letter  to  the  same 
purpose  to  His  Royal  Highness.  We  sent  them  by  Mr  William 
Moody,  minister  of  Glencairn.  .  .  .  People  of  all  Ranks 
here  have  shown  so  much  their  zeal  to  serve  His  Majesty  King 
George,  that  if  the  Rebels  return  this  way  I  fear  what  we  have 
already  suffered  will  appear  a  trifle  in  comparison  of  what  we 
must  yet  expect." 

Happily  all  cause  for  anxiety  was  soon  at  an  end.  The 
insurgent  army  retreated  northward,  and  their  defeat  on 
Culloden  Moor,  which  speedily  followed,  crushed  for  ever  all 
the  hopes  Charles  Stuart  cherished  of  occupying  the  throne  of 
his  fathers. 
6 


CHAPTER  XL— HISTORIC  FAMILIES. 
THE  FERGUSSONS  OF  CRAIGDARROCH. 

The  Fergussons  of  Craigdarroch  are  the  oldest  Glencairn 
family  of  whom  we  have  any  authentic  information.  Fergus 
de  Glencarn  witnesses  a  charter  early  in  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury. In  1398  John  Fergusson,  dominus  de  Craigdarroch,  was 
settled  in  the  lands  of  Jarbruck  by  virtue  of  a  charter  granted 
by  a  Crawford.  By  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century 
Matthew  was  in  possession,  and  he  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
John.  In  1508  John  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch  and  his  son 
Thomas  were  involved  with  Lord  Maxwell  and  Sir  William 
Douglas  of  Drumlanrig  in  an  attack  on  Lord  Sanquhar,  Sheriff 
of  Nithsdale.  The  contemporary  accounts  shed  a  curious 
sidelight  upon  the  state  of  law  and  order  of  the  period.  In 
the  brulzie  or  "  grate  f eicht, ' '  as  Sir  James  Balf our  calls  it, 
several  of  Lord  Sanquhar's  supporters,  his  kinsman,  Robert 
Crichton  of  Kirkpatrick,  among  the  number,  were  slain.  The 
Fergussons  were  brought  to  trial  for  Crichton 's  death  on  30th 
September,  1512,  but  they  were  acquitted  on  the  ground  that 
the  deceased  Robert  Crichton  was  "  our  soveraine  lordis  rebell, 
and  at  his  home."1 

Even  at  this  early  period  the  lairds  of  Craigdarroch  were 
men  of  position  and  influence.  In  Monypenny's  Chronicle, 
published  in  1587,  sixty-five  lairds  and  gentlemen  are  enume- 
rated as  residing  in  Dumfriesshire  and  the  Stewartry  of 
Kirkcudbright,  and  among  them  we  find  the  name  "Fer- 
gusson of  Craigdarroch."  William  Fergusson  sat  as  a 
commissioner  from  the  Presbytery  of  Penpont  in  the  Glasgow 
Assembly  of  1638,  and  assisted  at  the  dethronement  of  the 
bishops.  In  1640  we  find  him  with  a  seat  in  Parliament. 
1.  Pitcairn's  Criminal  Trials,  Vol.  L,  p.  79. 


HISTORIC  FAMILIES.  101 

From  that  date  onwards  different  members  of  the  family  were 
chosen  to  represent  Dumfriesshire  in  the  old  Scottish  Parlia- 
ments. John  was  a  member  of  the  Parliament  of  1649,  and 
he  was  succeeded  by  Robert  in  1650.  Robert  espoused  the 
Royalist  side  in  the  Civil  War,  and  an  account  is  extant  of  a 
skirmish  near  the  Clean  in  1651,  in  which  he  headed  a  hand- 
ful of  resolute  men,  who  engaged  and  put  to  flight  a  detach- 
ment of  Cromwell's  "Ironsides."  In  1667  he  was  one  of  a 
committee  of  three  appointed  by  the  Privy  Council  to  investi- 
gate the  charges  of  oppression  and  malversation  preferred 
against  Sir  James  Turner.  The  committee  considered  that  a 
great  many  illegal  exactions  and  misdemeanours  of  other  kinds 
had  been  proved  against  Sir  James  and  those  under  his  com- 
mand, and,  in  consequence  of  this  finding,  Sir  James  was 
shortly  afterwards  dismissed  from  the  King's  service.1  John 
Fergusson,  the  next  head  of  the  house,  was  a  devoted  Presby- 
terian, and  he  fell  fighting  against  Claverhouse  at  the  Battle  of 
Killiecrankie  in  1689. 

Alexander  Fergusson,  the  descendant  of  John,  was  a  loyal 
follower  in  his  father's  footsteps,  and  raised  a  company 
of  volunteers  to  oppose  the  Pretender  in  1715.  He  was 
a  member  of  Parliament  in  1702-7  and  1715-22.  In  1709 
he  married  Anna,  the  "  bonnie  Annie  Laurie"  of  Scottish 
song,  and  youngest  daughter  of  Sir  Robert  Laurie  of  Max- 
welton;  and  it  was  a  son  of  this  union,  also  an  Alexander, 
who  was  the  hero  of  the  famous  bacchanalian  contest  celebrated 
by  Burns  in  his  poem  of  "The  Whistle."  Alexander  secundus 
became  eminent  both  as  an  advocate  and  as  a  Freemason.  He 
was  one  of  the  guiding  spirits  of  the  "  Nithsdale  St.  Paul  Lodge 
of  Freemasons,  No.  139,  Moniaive,"  erected  8th  February, 
1768,  and  as  Provincial  Grand  Master  of  the  Southern  or  Dum- 
fries District  he  laid  the  foundation-stone  of  the  New  Bridge 
1.  Wodrow,  Vol.  II.,  p.  101. 


102  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

at  Dumfries  in  1791.  He  likewise  presided  on  the  historic 
occasion  of  the  inauguration  of  Robert  Burns  as  Poet  Laureate 
of  the  Canongate  Kilwinning  Lodge  of  Freemasons,  1787,  an 
event  to  which  the  poet  himself  refers  with  satisfaction  in  a 
letter  to  John  Ballantine,  Esq.,  dated  January  14th,  1787. 
The  Right  Hon.  Robert  Cutlar-Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch, 
eldest  son  and  successor  of  Alexander,  was  born  in  1768,  and 
called  to  the  English  bar  in  July,  1797.  He  is  said  to  have 
given  early  promise  of  future  eminence,  and  he  soon  became 
known  as  an  accomplished  lawyer  and  scholar.  He  took  a 
prominent  part  in  founding  the  Society  of  the  Antiquaries  of 
Scotland  in  1780,  and  had  the  honour  of  being  elected  one  of 
the  first  Vice-Presidents  of  the  Society.  In  1799  the  Earl  of 
Thanet,  Mr  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch,  and  three  other 
commoners  were  charged  with  joining  in  an  attempt  to  assist 
Arthur  O'Connor,  who  was  then  being  tried  for  high  treason, 
to  escape  from  justice.  The  Earl  of  Thanet  and  Mr  Fergus- 
son  were  found  guilty  and  sentenced  to  be  fined  and  imprisoned. 
Mr  Fergusson  disputed  the  justice  of  the  verdict,  and,  by  way 
of  vindicating  his  reputation,  he  published  a  verbatim  report 
of  the  whole  proceedings  (see  Appendix  C.,  Bibliography}. 
Subsequently  he  proceeded  to  India,  where  he  speedily  attained 
a  foremost  place  in  his  profession.  On  returning  to  this  country 
he  was  elected  in  1826  as  member  of  Parliament  for  the 
Stewartry  of  Kirkcudbright,  and  he  continued  to  represent  that 
constituency  until  his  death.  In  1834  he  was  appointed  Judge- 
Advocate-General,  and  at  the  same  time  sworn  of  the  Privy 
Council.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  Robert  Cutlar 
Fergusson,  J.P.,  who  died  6th  October,  1859,  leaving  issue: — 

1.  Robert  Cutlar,  late  of  Craigdarroch. 

2.  Archibald  William  Cutlar. 

3.  Alexander  Edward. 

Robert  Cutlar  Fergusson,  J.P.,  counties  of  Dumfries  and  Kirk- 


HISTORIC  FAMILIES.  103 

cudbright,  late  Captain  Scots  Guards,  married  5th  February, 
1889,  Rose,  elder  daughter  of  John  Grant  Hodgson  of  Cabalva, 
Co.  Hereford,  and  died  1904,  having  by  her  had  issue — 

1.  Ella  Cutlar,  now  of  Craigdarroch. 

2.  Esme,  twin  with  her  sister. 
Born  12th  October,  1889. l 

In  the  Records  of  the  Clan  Fergusson  (p.  375)  we  are  told 
that  "  the  principal  cadet  branches  of  the  House  of  Craigdarroch 
were  those  of  Isle  and  Caitloch.  One  of  the  family  of  Isle 
represented  Dumfriesshire  in  the  last  Scottish  Parliament,  and 
Fergusson  of  Caitloch  was  a  fugitive  in  Holland,  while  his 
family  suffered  great  hardships  prior  to  the  Revolution." 
Space,  however,  prevents  us  from  noticing  these  collateral 
branches  in  detail. 

CUNINGHAM  FAMILY. 
EARLS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Alexander  Cuningham,  Lord  of  Kilmaurs,  was  created  first 
Earl  of  Glencairn  by  James  III.  on  28th  May,  1488.  He  is 
supposed  to  have  been  descended  from  one  Warnebald,  of 
Danish  extraction,  who  came  from  the  North  of  England  in  the 
12th  century  in  the  retinue  of  Hugh  de  Morville,  Constable  of 
Scotland.  Sir  William  Cuningham,  his  grandfather,  had 
acquired  lands  in  Glencairn  through  marriage  with  Margaret, 
daughter  of  Sir  Robert  de  Dunyelston,  and  it  was  from  these 
possessions,  which  had  been  conferred  upon  Sir  Robert  by  King 
David  Bruce  in  1373,  that  Alexander  took  his  title. 

By  the  Act  Rescissory,  passed  in  the  first  Parliament  of 
James  IV.,  17th  October,  1488,  all  creations  of  new  dignities 
granted  by  that  Monarch's  father  since  2nd  February  preceding 
were  annulled,  and  in  consequence  Robert,  Lord  Kilmaurs, 
eldest  son  of  the  Earl  of  Glencairn,  was  deprived  of  the  title. 
In  1503  the  Act  Rescissory  was  in  turn  abrogated,  and  in  the 
1.  Burke's  Landed  Gentry. 


104  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

person  of  Cuthbert  Cuningham,  the  next  in  descent,  the  earldom 
was  restored  to  the  family.  By  his  countess,  Lady  Marjory 
Douglas,  eldest  daughter  of  the  fifth  Earl  of  Angus,  Cuthbert 
had  a  son,  William,  fourth  Earl.  This  nobleman  was  one  of 
the  ablest  and  most  powerful  barons  of  his  time.  He  was 
appointed  high-treasurer  of  Scotland,  25th  June,  1526,  but  held 
that  office  only  till  29th  October  following.  His  power  and 
influence  were  so  great,  that  when  the  English  King  contem- 
plated an  invasion  of  Scotland,  his  lordship  undertook  to  convey 
his  army  from  Carlisle  to  Glasgow  "  without  stroke  or  chal- 
lenge."1 He  died  in  1547.  His  son,  Andrew,  was  likewise 
prominently  associated  with  the  events  of  the  period.  In  1539, 
when  Cardinal  David  Beaton  succeeded  his  uncle  in  the  See  of 
•St.  Andrews,  Andrew  Cuningham,  son  of  the  master  of  Glen- 
cairn,  James  Hamilton,  brother  to  Patrick  Hamilton,  and  the 
celebrated  George  Buchanan,  the  historian,  were  severally 
apprehended  and  imprisoned  on  a  charge  of  heresy,  and  if  they 
had  not  found  means  to  escape,  it  is  probable  that  all  would 
have  perished  in  the  flames.2 

Alexander,  fifth  Earl  of  Glencairn,  sometimes  called  "  the 
good  Earl,"  was  one  of  the  chief  promoters  of  the  Reformation 
movement  in  Scotland.  He  took  a  prominent  part  in  the 
negotiations  with  the  Queen  Regent,  and  throughout  this  test- 
ing and  trying  time  showed  consistent  loyalty  to  the  Protestant 
cause.  He  was  a  man  to  be  reckoned  with  on  the  field  of 
battle  as  well  as  in  the  council  chamber,  and  at  Langside,  which 
settled  for  ever  the  claims  of  the  unfortunate  Mary,  he  bore 
himself  with  conspicuous  bravery.  His  eldest  son  William, 
sixth  Earl,  was  a  Privy  Councillor  of  James  VI.  and  one  of  the 
commissioners  nominated  by  Parliament  for  the  projected 
Union  with  England  in  1604.  He  married  Janet,  daughter  of 
Gordon  of  Lochinvar,  by  whom  he  had  two  sons  and  four 

1.  Scottish  Nation,  Vol.  II.,  p.  310. 
2.  Biographia  Scoticana,  p.  25. 


HISTORIC  FAMILIES.  105 

daughters.  His  eldest  son,  and  successor,  James,  the  seventh 
Earl,  comes  prominently  before  us  in  connection  with  a  feud  of 
long  standing  between  the  Cuninghams  and  the  Montgomeries. 
On  the  19th  day  of  November,  1591,  he  was  ordained  to  find 
caution  to  the  extent  of  £20,000  within  eight  days  under  pain 
of  being  proclaimed  a  "rebel  at  the  horn."  Later,  for  non- 
fulfilment  of  a  "  decreet  ' '  passed  by  the  Lords  and  Council  and 
Session,  he  was  charged  to  deliver  up  his  houses  of  "  Kilmar- 
annock,  Finlaystoun,  Stevenstoun,  Kilmaweris,  and  Glen- 
cairne,"  to  the  official  executor  of  the  court.  It  is  probable  he 
suffered  considerable  material  loss  by  these  proceedings. 
Certain  it  is  that  in  1611  Lord  Kilmaurs  and  his  father-in-law, 
Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Lochinvar,  sold  to  Stephen  Laurie  the 
lands  of  Maxwelton,  reserving  only  a  small  plot  of  ground,  a 
few  feet  square,  for  the  sake  of  the  title,  and  that  the  lands 
thus  disposed  of  were  the  last  of  the  Cuningham  possessions  in 
Glencairn. 

From  this  date  the  history  of  the  Earls  of  Glencairn 
becomes  merged  in  the  history  of  Scotland.  Suffice  it  to  say 
that  the  family  continued  to  play  a  prominent  part  in  national 
affairs  down  to  1796,  when  the  male  line  of  the  main  stem 
became  extinct.  It  has  been  observed  that  collateral  branches 
of  old  families  often  linger  in  a  parish  long  after  the  main  stem 
has  disappeared,  and  it  may  be  of  interest  to  mention  that  an 
elderly  maiden  lady  who  claimed  to  be  a  descendant  of  the 
Earls  of  Glencairn,  was  laid  to  rest  in  the  Cuningham  burying 
ground  in  Glencairn  Churchyard  as  recently  as  the  year  1883. 

THE  LAURIE  FAMILY.      — j- 

The  connection  of  the  Laurie  family  with  Glencairn  com- 
menced early  in  the  seventeenth  century.  The  founder  was 
Stephen  Laurie,  a  Dumfries  merchant,  who  in  1611  purchased 
from  James,  7th  Earl  of  Glencairn,  and  his  father-in-law,  Sir 
Robert  Gordon  of  Lochinvar,  the  lands  of  Bellibocht,  (not 


106  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

"  Bithbought  "  as  given  by  M'Dowall),  Shancastle,  and  Max- 
welton,  in  the  parish  of  Glencairn.  He  married  Marion, 
daughter  of  John  Corsane  of  Meikleknox,  M.P.  for  Dumfries, 
and  had  three  children.  His  son  John,  who  succeeded,  married 
in  1630  Agnes,  daughter  of  Sir  Robert  Grierson  of  Lag.  He 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  Covenanters  and,  as  already  men- 
tioned, had  to  pay  a  fine  of  £3,600  Scots  for  his  non-conformity. 
Robert,  the  next  in  the  succession,  married  Mary,  daughter  of 
Robert  Dalzell  of  Glense.  Unlike  his  father  he  took  the  side 
of  the  King,  and  became  one  of  Claverhouse's  most  active 
abettors.  On  21st  March,  1685,  he  received  from  King  James 
VII.  "for  his  merits  "  the  title  and  honour  of  Knight  Baronet, 
but  in  Glencairn  he  is  remembered  as  one  who  sullied  the 
fair  fame  of  the  name  he  bore.  Robert  Laurie  married, 
secondly,  Jean,  daughter  of  Walter  Riddell  of  Minto,  writer, 
Edinburgh,  by  whom  he  had  three  sons  and  four  daughters. 
One  of  the  daughters,  Anna,  born  at  Maxwelton,  16th  Decem- 
ber, 1682,  grew  up,  as  M'Dowall  says,  "to  be  the  most  beauti- 
ful Dumfriesshire  lady  of  the  day,  and  the  heroine  of  a  song 
which  has  rendered  her  charms  immortal." 

"BONNIE  ANNIE  LAURIE." 

The  writer  of  the  song  in  honour  of  "  bonnie  Annie 
Laurie  "  was  William  Douglas  of  Fingland,  in  Kirkcudbright- 
shire, a  soldier  of  fortune,  attached  to  the  house  of  Stuart. 
He  was  the  eldest  son  of  Archibald  Douglas  of  Morton  Castle, 
and  of  Marion  Kennedy  of  Auchtyfardel,  who  were  married  at 
Morton  Castle,  10th  May,  1670.  His  commission  as  an  ensign 
in  the  Royal  Scots  is  dated  21st  September,  1688.  It  appears 
that  the  object  of  his  affections,  instead  of  keeping  the  "  pro- 
mise true,"  which  she  is  said  to  have  made,  preferred  the  suit 
of  Mr  Alexander  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch,  and  her  marriage 
to  that  gentleman  was  duly  celebrated  in  the  Tron  Kirk,  Edin- 
burgh, on  29th  July,  1709.  She  long  survived  her  husband, 


HISTORIC  FAMILIES.  107 

and  died  at  Friars'  Carse,  Dumfriesshire,  on  April  5th,  1764, 
in  the  eighty-second  year  of  her  age.  As  for  her  poet-lover, 
fate  has  proved  doubly  unkind  to  him.  Supplanted  in  love,  he 
has  likewise  been  supplanted  in  song,  for  the  version  of  "  Max- 
welton  Braes  "  that  we  now  sing  is  not  the  original  version, 
but  a  modern  adaptation  which  we  owe  to  Lady  John  Scott,  a 
gifted  member  of  the  Spottiswood  family.  As  originally 
written  the  song  consisted  of  two  verses,  which  Chambers  says 
are  "in  a  style  wonderfully  tender  and  chaste  for  their  age." 
A  copy  of  these  less  familiar  verses,  printed  as  they  originally 
appeared  in  Charles  Kirkpatrick  S'harpe's  Ballad  Book  (1832), 
is  here  appended. 

Maxwelton  banks  are  bonnie, 

Where  early  fa's  the  dew; 
Where  me  and  Annie  Laurie 

Made  up  the  promise  true; 
Made  up  the  promise  true ; 

And  never  forget  will  I, 
And  for  bonnie  Annie  Laurie 

I'd  lay  down  my  head  and  die. 

She's  backit  like  a  peacock, 

She's  breastit  like  a  swan, 
She's  jimp  about  the  middle, 

Her  waist  you  weill  may  span, 
Her  waist  you  weill  may  span, 

And  she  has  a  rolling  eye ; 
And  for  bonnie  Annie  Laurie 

I'd  lay  down  my  head  and  die. 

Annie  Laurie  sleeps  by  the  side  of  her  husband  in  Glen- 
cairn  Churchyard.  Her  resting-place  abuts  on  the  church  in 
which  she  worshipped.  Less  than  a  mile  away  are  the  "  bonnie 
braes  "  of  her  childhood;  and  close  at  hand  the  crystal  Cairn, 


108  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

upon  whose  waters  she  must  often  have  looked  in  those  joyous 
days,  croons  as  of  yore  its  own  melodious  song. 

That  she  was  a  woman  sound  of  judgment,  as  she  was  fair 
of  countenance,  is  shown  by  her  will,  which  we  subjoin: — 

"  I,  Anna  Laurie,  spouse  to  Alexr.  Fergussone  off  Craig- 
darroch,  Forasmuch  as  I  considering  it  a  dewtie  upon  everie 
persone  whyle  they  are  in  health  and  sound  judgment  so  as 
to  settle  yr.  worldly  affairs  that  yrby  all  animosities  betwixt 
friend  and  relatives  may  obviat,  and  also  for  the  singular  love 
and  respect  I  have  for  the  said  Alex.  Fergussone,  in  caise  he 
survives  me  I  do  heirby  make  my  letter  will  as  follows :  First,  I 
recommend  my  soule  to  God,  hopeing  by  the  meritorious 
righteousness  of  Jesus  Christ  to  be  saved;  secondly,  I  recom- 
mend my  body  ito  be  decently  and  orderly  interred;  and  in  the 
third  plaice  nominate  and  appoynt  the  sd.  Alexr.  Fergussone 
to  be  my  sole  and  only  executor,  Legator,  and  universall  intro- 
metter  with  my  haill  goods,  gear,  debts,  and  soums  off  money 
that  shall  pertain  and  belong  to  me  the  tyme  of  my  decease  or 
shall  be  dew  to  me  by  bill,  bond,  or  oyrway ;  with  power  to  him 
to  obtain  himself  confirmed  and  decreed  exr.  to  me  and  to  do 
everie  thing  for  fixing  and  establishing  the  right  off  my  spouse 
in  his  person  as  law  requires;  in  witness  whereoff  thir  pntts. 
written  ( ?)  be  Johne  Wilson  off  Chapell,  wryter  in  Dumfries, 
are  subd.  by  me  at  Craigdarroch  the  twenty-eight  day  of  Apryle, 
Im  vijc  and  eleven  [1711]  years,  befor  the  witnesses  the  said 
John  Wilsone  and  John  Nicholsone  his  servitor. 

"  ANN  LAURIE. 
"Jo.  WILSONE,  Witness. 
"JOHN  HOAT,  Witnes." 

To  return  to  the  succession,  Sir  Robert  Laurie  died  in 
1698.  His  son,  Sir  Robert  (2nd  Bart.),  who  succeeded,  was 
killed  by  a  fall  from  his  horse,  28th  February,  1702,  and  the 
estate  and  title  devolved  upon  his  brother  Sir  Walter  (3rd 


HISTORIC  FAMILIES.  109 

Bart.).  Walter  married  Jean,  daughter  of  Sir  Patrick  Nisbet 
of  Dean.  He  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Sir  Robert  (4th  Bart.), 
who  married  Christian,  daughter  of  Charles  Erskine  of  Alva,  a 
Lord  of  Session.  Sir  Robert  died  28th  April,  1779,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  son,  Lieut. -General  Sir  Robert  Laurie  (5th 
Bart.).  He  was  Knight-Marshal  of  Scotland,  Col.  of  8th 
Dragoons,  and  M.P.  for  Dumfriesshire  from  1774  to  1804,  the 
year  of  his  death.  His  only  son,  Admiral  Sir  Robert  Laurie  of 
Maxwelton,  K.C.B.,  (6th  and  last  Bart.),  who  succeeded,  was  a 
distinguished  naval  officer.  He  died  without  issue  in  1848,  and 
was  succeeded  in  the  estate  by  a  nephew,  John  Minet  Fector, 
who  died  in  1868.  The  present  representative  of  the  family 
is  the  Rev.  Sir  Emilius  Laurie,  Bart.,  who  assumed  by  Royal 
Licence  the  name  of  Laurie,  in  lieu  of  Bayley,  on  succeeding 
to  the  estate  of  Maxwelton  in  1887. 

GIBSONS  OF  GLENCROSH. 

Although  the  Gibsons  of  Glencrosh  do  not  appear  in  Glen- 
cairn  until  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  different 
members  of  the  family  play  an  important  part  in  the  public 
life  of  the  parish  between  that  period  and  the  close  of  the 
eighteenth  century.  In  1654  John  Gibson  of  Glencrosh  pur- 
chased from  George  Cunningham  of  Craignestoun  "  the  two 
merk  land  called  the  Three  Riggs  with  pertinents  in  the  barony 
and  parish  of  Glencairn,"  and  these  lands  were  held  by  him 
together  with  the  lands  of  Glencrosh.  It  must  have  been  either 
this  John  Gibson  or  a  son  of  his  who  was  penalised  for  his 
pronounced  Covenanting  sympathies  by  a  fine  of  £600  Scots. 
He  married  Janet  Gibson,  and  had  four  sons,  by  one  of  whom, 
John,  he  was  succeeded.  John  died  in  May,  1680,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  eldest  son,  James.  In  the  will  of  James 
Gibson,  dated  17th  March,  1684,  he  directed  that  his  eldest 
son,  John,  was  to  intromit  with  the  moveables  and  make  pay- 
ments of  the  others'  portions  at  the  sight  of  John  Gibson  of 


110  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Auchincheane,  Robert  Herries  in  Castlefairne,  William  Gibson 
of  Dibben,  his  brother,  and  Robert  Grier  in  "Mynyve,"  whom 
be  appointed  tutors  to  his  children.  The  "  John  Gibson  of 
Auchincheane "  here  mentioned  is  undoubtedly  the  John 
Gibson  who  took  command  of  the  men  of  Glencairn  when  they 
marched  to  Keir  Moss  on  the  first  mutterings  of  rebellion  in 
1715.  Evidently  he  had  inherited  more  than  the  name  of  his 
forebear,  John  Gibson,  Covenanter.  John  Gibson  succeeded  to 
Glencrosh  on  the  death  of  his  father  in  March,  1684.  He  did 
not,  however,  receive  sasine  till  April  9th,  1711.  His  eldest 
son,  who  was  likewise  named  John,  succeeded  in  1724.  He 
was  a  Commissioner  for  Land  Tax  in  Dumfriesshire  from  1728 
to  1738.  He  married  on  December  22nd,  1726,  Sarah  Thom- 
son, and  had  three  children,  viz.,  Samuel  (b.  1727),  John,  and 
a  daughter  Nicholas.  Samuel,  who  succeeded,  was  likewise  a 
Commissioner  for  Land  Tax.  He  died  without  issue  in  1756, 
and  as  his  brother  John  had  predeceased  him,  Glencrosh  passed 
to  their  sister  Nicholas.  Gilbert  Gibson,  another  member  of 
the  family,  was  a  Land  Tax  Commissioner  in  1753,  and  Robert 
in  1762.  In  the  Act  of  1768  the  name  of  Gibson  again  appears, 
but  no  Christian  name  is  given. 

Glencrosh  continued  in  the  possession  of  the  Gibsons  until 
about  1870,  when  the  estate  was  sold  to  John  M'Millan  of 
Holm,  in  whose  family  it  continues. 

Other  families  might  be  mentioned  as  holding  lands  in  the 
parish  of  old,  such  as  Danyelstoun  or  Dennistoun,  Crawford, 
Crichton,  Rorison,  Riddell,  Corson,  M'Gachan  or  M'Caughie, 
Smith,  Stewart,  Collow,  Brown,  and  Moffat.     All  these  once 
important  families  have  disappeared  or  left  but  feeble  traces 
of  their  former  greatness.     At  the  present  time    the    landed 
families  most  prominently  identified  with  the  parish  are : — 
The  Fergussons  of  Craigdarroch. 
The  Lauries  of  Maxwelton, 


HISTORIC  FAMILIES.  Ill 

The  Walkers  of  Crawfordton. 

The  M'Calls  of  Caitloch. 

The  Connells  of  Auchencheyne.1 

The  M'Millans  of  Glencrosh  and  Woodlea. 

The  Barbers  of  Tererran. 

The  Martins  of  Dardarroch. 

In  Glencairn  most  of  the  land-owning  families  are  resident. 
The  advantages  of  this  do  not  require  to  be  enlarged  upon,  and 
it  is  safe  to  say  that  there  are  very  few  parishes  in  which  the 
relations  between  proprietor  and  tenant  are  so  cordial  in 
character. 

1 .  The  estate  has  just  passed  by  purchase  into  the  hands  of  William  Kennedy 

Moffat,  Esq. 


CHAPTER  XII.— FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS. 

Mention  has  already  been  made  of  James  Renwick,  of 
Robert  Cutlar-Fergusson,  of  "Bonnie  Annie  Laurie,"  and  of 
other  famous  sons  and  daughters  of  Glencairn.  In  this  chapter 
we  propose  to  notice  yet  a  number  of  others  who,  for  their 
works'  sake,  deserve  to  be  held  in  remembrance. 

(1)  LIEUT. -CoL.  JOHN  BLACK ADER. 

This  "  Brave  soldier  and  devout  Christian  "  was  born  at 
Bardennoch,  Glencairn,  on  the  14th  September,  1664.  He 
was  the  fifth  and  youngest  son  of  the  Rev.  John  Blackader, 
"outed"  minister  of  Troqueer,  Kirkcudbrightshire.  Of  his 
early  life  very  little  is  known  with  certainty.  It  is  on  record, 
however,  that  he  entered  the  army  as  a  cadet  in  his  25th 
year,  and  that  he  was  present  at  the  affair  of  Dunkeld  in 
August,  1689.1  He  afterwards  served  under  the  Duke  of  Marl- 
borough  in  Queen  Anne's  wars,  and  is  said  to  have  been  present 
at  close  upon  forty  different  actions.  A  Diary  which  he  kept 
during  his  various  campaigns,  together  with  numerous  letters 
belonging  to  the  same  period,  escaped  destruction  by  the 
merest  accident,  for  they  had  been  sold  to  a  tobacconist 
as  papers  of  no  value,  when  curiosity  on  the  part  of  the 
purchaser  led  to  the  discovery  of  their  true  worth.  It  was 
these  papers  that  supplied  the  principal  materials  for  the  Life 
and  Diary  of  Lieut. -Col.  J .  Blackader,  which  was  prepared 
for  the  press  by  Andrew  Crichton,  the  biographer  of  his  father, 
in  1824.  The  Diary  seems  to  have  been  designed  as  a  spiritual 
register  of  the  writer's  experiences,  and  it  shows  us  piety  flourish- 
ing under  circumstances  apparently  the  most  adverse.  Why  he 

1.  An  account  which  he  wrote  of  that  obstinate  encounter  was  printed 

and  circulated  in  the  papers  of  the  time,  and  the  MS.  is  now  preserved  in 

the  Advocates'  Library,  Edinburgh. 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.  113 

embraced  a  military  life  we  are  not  told,  but  we  may  be  sure 
that  the  step  was  not  taken  without  due  consideration.  The 
immorality  and  profanity  of  the  army  are  often  referred  to  in 
the  Diary,  and  it  is  plain  that  his  strictness  of  life  exposed  him 
to  much  obloquy  and  reproach.  He  was  a  man,  however,  who 
had  the  courage  to  be  singular,  and  his  adherence  to  what  he 
believed  to  be  right  was  firm  and  inflexible. 

In  the  autumn  of  1711  Col.  Blackader  retired  from  the 
army  and  took  up  his  residence  in  Edinburgh.  During  his  stay 
there  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  Society  for  Propagating 
Christian  Knowledge,  and  an  elder  of  the  College  Church. 
Early  in  June,  1714,  he  removed  to  Stirling,  where  he  lived  the 
quiet  uneventful  life  of  a  country  gentleman.  In  1715  he 
was  unexpectedly  called  from  his  retirement  to  take  command  of 
a  company  of  Volunteers,  raised  in  the  South  and  West  to  assist 
in  quelling  the  insurrectionary  movement  set  on  foot  by  the 
friends  of  the  young  Pretender,  but  on  the  suppression  of  the 
Rebellion  in  the  spring  of  1716  he  resumed  his  former  retired 
pursuits.  In  the  following  year  he  was  nominated  Deputy- 
Governor  of  Stirling  Castle,  an  appointment  that  seems  to 
have  been  bestowed  in  recognition  of  the  services  he  had 
rendered  his  country  during  the  Rebellion,  and  he  continued 
to  hold  the  office  until  his  death  on  31st  August,  1729.  His 
remains  were  interred  in  the  West  Church  of  Stirling,  within 
which,  on  the  south  wall,  near  the  pulpit,  a  marble  tablet  has 
been  erected  to  his  memory. 

(2)  JAMES  FISHER. 

James  Fisher,  blind  musician,  composer,  and  author,  was 
born  in  High  Street,  Moniaive,  about  the  year  1759.  He  lost 
his  sight  by  small-pox  when  only  two  years  of  age.  Even  in 
infancy  he  evinced  a  love  of  music,  and  it  became  not  only  a 
source  of  amusement  to  him,  but  also  the  chief  means  of  gain- 
ing a  sustenance  in  later  life.  Leaving  Moniaive,  he  resided 


114  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

for  a  number  of  years  at  Ochiltree.  During  his  residence 
there  he  wrote  several  epistles  in  rhyme  to  Thomas  Walker, 
John  Lapraik,  and  other  "rhyme-composing  brithers,"  some 
of  whom  were  correspondents  of  Burns.  These  effusions  he 
included  in  a  volume  entitled  Poems  on  Various  Subjects,  printed 
at  Dumfries  in  1790.  Poems,  chiefly  Scottish,  appeared  in  tne 
same  year,  and  an  Elegy  on  the  Death  of  David's  Psalms  in 
1805.  In  addition  to  his  poetical  works,  Fisher  published  two 
volumes  in  prose,  A  Spring  Day  (1803)  and  A  Winter  Season 
(1810).  The  former  of  these  was  received  with  considerable 
favour,  and  is  said  to  have  passed  into  at  least  five  editions. 
He  likewise  composed  a  number  of  tunes  for  the  violin. 

Fisher  removed  from  Ochiltree  about  1809.  His  wife 
died  in  1808,  and  is  interred  in  Glencairn  Churchyard,  where 
a  freestone  monument  bears  the  following  curious  tribute  to 
her  memory: — 

"  To  the  dear  remembrance  of  Isabella,  spouse  to  James 
Fisher,  author  of  'The  Spring  Day,'  who  departed  this  life 
April  27,  1808,  having  been  nearly  the  space  of  22  years  his 
only  pious,  amiable,  and  affectionate  wife. 

My  Isabella's  precious  dust  here  lies 

In  sweet  repose  as  in  a  bed  of  rest, 

While  full  of  joy  I  know  'bove  yonder  skies 

Her  better  part  rejoices  with  the  bless 'd. 

Next  to  her  Heavenly  Lord  while  here  she  lived, 

Her  husband's  care  engrossed  her  thoughts  and  ways, 

Nor  willingly,  even  once,  him  griev'd. 

This  tribute  due  he  to  her  memory  pays." 

(3)  ALEXANDER  CLERK. 

Alexander  Clerk,  farmer,  Caulside,  (Calside),  is  entitled  to 
notice  as  the  author  of  a  small  volume  of  poems  published  at 
Dumfries  in  1801.  The  volume  contains  a  number  of  meritori- 
ous pieces  in  Scots,  amongst  others  a  poem  "On  Potatoes," 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.       115 

which  has  often  been  attributed — although,  we  believe,  errone- 
ously— to  Burns.  Both  the  late  Dr  Craufurd  Tait  Ramage,  of 
Closeburn,  and  the  late  Mr  James  Shaw,  of  Tynron,  were  of 
opinion  that  the  poem  was  the  work  of  Clerk,  and  the  use  of  the 
word  "cronie"1  in  the  opening  stanza  certainly  points  to  a 
Dumfriesshire  rather  than  to  an  Ayrshire  origin. 

"  Gude  day !    my  auld  acquaintance,  cronie, 
I'm  blyth  to  see  thee  bloomin'  bonny; 
O'  fruits  an'  flow'rs  there  are  na  mony 

Compar'd  wi'  thee, 
I  question  much  if  there  be  ony, 

At  least  wi'  me." 

The  family  stone  in  Glencairn  Churchyard  is  inscribed  as 
follows : — 

"  In  memory  of  Robert  Clerk,  who  died  in  Calside,  August 
13th,  1800,  aged  65  years.  Also  of  Margret  Sharp,  his 
spouse,  who  died  March  llth,  1799,  aged  61  years.  Also  his 
son,  Alexander  Clark  (sic),  who  died  at  Dumfries,  5th  Novem- 
ber, 1808,  aged  46  years.  Also  Ketron  Hastings,  his  wife, 
who  died  12th  August,  1810,  aged  34  years.  Also  John  Clark, 
son  of  Robert  Clark,  who  died  at  Hillside,  Parish  of  Keir, 
aged  39  years." 

(4)  REV.  ROBERT  GORDON,  D.D. 

This  eminent  divine  was  born  at  Old  Crawfordton,  Glen- 
cairn,  in  the  year  1786.  He  was  only  six  years  of  age  when 
his  father  died.  The  family  was  then  in  straitened  circum- 
stances, although  there  is  good  reason  to  believe  that  at  a  later 
date  Dr  Gordon  was  regarded  by  his  friends  as  the  rightful  heir 
to  the  title  and  lands  of  Kenmure.  With  characteristic 
modesty  and  devotion  to  his  work,  however,  he  would  take 
no  step  to  establish  his  claim.  Naturally  the  widowed  mother 
1.  Crony,  a  potato,  Dumfr.  (Jamieson). 


116  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

was  concerned  for  her  boy's  education,   and  she  felt  greatly 
relieved  when  a  kind-hearted  schoolmaster  in  the  neighbouring 
parish  of  Tynron  offered  to  teach  him  free  of  charge.     Robert 
would  seem  to  have  made  good  use  of  his  opportunities,  for,  nine 
years  later,  he  was  appointed  master  of  the  school  at  Kirkland  in 
his  native  parish,  a  position  his  father  had  held  before  him.     He 
afterwards  filled  a  more  important  educational  appointment  at 
Perth,  and  finally  prepared  for  the  ministry,  first  at  Aberdeen, 
and  afterwards  at  Edinburgh.     In  1816  he  was  ordained  parish 
minister  of  Kinfauns.     Four  years  later  he  was  translated  to 
St.  Cuthbert's  Parish,  Buccleuch  Street,  Edinburgh.     He  was 
subsequently  called  in  rapid  succession  to  Hope  Park  Church, 
the  new  North  Church,  and  finally  in  1830  to  the  High  Church, 
Edinburgh,  a  charge  then  considered  the  first  in  the  Church  of 
Scotland.     Dr  Gordon  presided  at  the  great  Convocation  in 
Edinburgh  in  November,   1842,   called  to  consider  the  crisis 
that  had  arisen  in  the  Church,  and  it  was  generally  admitted 
that  his  solemn  words  of  address  gave  a  fitting  tone  and  charac- 
ter to  the  proceedings  on  that  momentous  occasion.     At  the 
Disruption  he  left  the  Established  Church,  and  he  was  followed 
by  nearly  the  whole  of  his  large  congregation.     A  list  of  his 
published  writings  will  be  found  in  the  Bibliography  (Appendix 
C).     He  died  at  Edinburgh  on  the  21st  October,   1853.     His 
death,  it  has  been  said,  "deprived  the  Church  of  Christ  of  one 
of  its  brightest  ornaments  and  strongest  pillars." 

(5)  WILLIAM  BENNET. 

William  Bennet,  poet  and  journalist,  was  born  near  Bar- 
buie,  Moniaive,  29th  September,  1802.  From  boyhood  he 
was  fond  of  rhyming,  and  in  his  nineteenth  year  he  published 
a  volume  of  verse,  entitled  The  Sabbath,  and  other  Poems.  In 
that  volume  the  author's  name  appears  as  "Bennoch," 
but  in  subsequent  works  the  spelling  was  altered  to 
"Bennet."  About  the  time  of  this  first  venture  in  authorship 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.  117 

he  was  a  frequent  contributor  to  the  Dumfries  Courier,  and  in 
1825-26  he  conducted  the  Dumfries  Monthly  Magazine. 
Towards  the  close  of  1826  he  accepted  the  editorship  of  a 
Liberal  newspaper  called  the  Glasgow  Free  Press,  but  he  after- 
wards withdrew  from  the  Liberal  party  and  conducted  a  Con- 
servative journal,  The  Glasgow  Constitutional.  Sennet's  Glas- 
gow Magazine  was  founded  by  him  in  1832.  In  addition  to  the 
volume  mentioned,  he  published,  Traits  of  Scottish  Life  and 
Pictures  of  Scenes  and  Character  (1830),  Songs  of  Solitude 
(1831),  'The  Chief  of  Glen  Orchay,  a  poem  in  five  cantos 
(1840),  and  Sketches  of  the  Isle  of  Man. 

After  residing  successively  in  Ireland  and  in  England,  Mr 
Bennet  took  up  his  abode  at  Burntisland,  where  he  devoted 
upwards  of  twenty-five  years  of  his  life  to  a  new  translation  of 
the  Scriptures.  Although  a  few  specimens  of  the  fruits  of  his 
labours  were  published  anonymously  in  1875  under  the  title, 
Truth  Unlocked,  by  a  Pioneer  Witness,  the  stupendous  task  was 
never  completed.  Mr  Bennet  died  at  Edinburgh,  whither  he 
had  removed,  on  3rd  June,  1882.  He  is  interred  beside  his 
wife  in  the  cemetery  at  Burntisland. 

(6)  REV.  JOHN  INGLIS,  D.D.,  F.R.S.G.S. 
John  Inglis,  the  distinguished  missionary,  was  born  in 
Ayr  Street,  Moniaive,  8th  July,  1808.  He  received  his 
early  education  at  the  village  school,  and  after  working  for 
a  time  as  a  mason  he  formed  the  design  of  entering  the  ministry, 
and  was  enrolled  a  student  of  Glasgow  University.  On  com- 
pleting his  studies  he  was  licensed  by  the  Reformed  Presby- 
terian Presbytery  of  Paisley  in  1842.  In  1844  he  went  to  New 
Zealand  as  a  missionary  to  the  Maoris.  Eight  years  later  he 
proceeded  to  Aneityum,  the  most  southerly  of  the  New  Hebrides 
group  of  islands,  and  it  is  as  the  apostle  of  the  New  Hebrides 
that  John  Inglis  deserves  to  be  remembered.  When  he  set 
foot  on  the  island  of  Aneityum  the  natives  were  heathen  canni- 


118  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

bals.     When  he  left  it  twenty-five  years  later  the  whole  island 
had  been  brought  under  Christian  influence. 

Dr  Inglis,  on  returning  to  Scotland,  passed  through  the 
press  a  translation  of  the  Scriptures  into  Aneityumese.  He 
likewise  published  Reminiscences  of  Missionary  Life  and  Work 
in  the  New  Hebrides  (1887)  and  Bible  Illustrations  from  the 
New  Hebrides  (1890).  The  degree  of  D.D.  was  conferred  on 
him  by  the  Senatus  of  Glasgow  University  in  1883.  He  died 
at  Lincuan  Cottage,  Kirkcowan,  Wigtownshire,  18th  July, 
1891,  in  the  eighty-fourth  year  of  his  age. 

(7)  REV.  WILLIAM  FRANCE. 

William  France,  second  son  of  the  Rev.  James  France, 
minister  of  the  Secession  Church  at  Moniaive,  was  born  31st 
December,  1809.  On  his  being  licensed  to  preach  no  fewer 
than  three  competing  calls  were  addressed  to  him  by  con- 
gregations in  Cupar,  Dunfermline,  and  Paisley.  By  the  de- 
cision of  the  Synod,  which  then  determined  appointments  in 
such  cases,  the  calls  from  Cupar  and  Dunfermline  were  set 
aside,  and  the  call  from  Paisley  sustained.  Mr  France  was 
accordingly  ordained  by  the  Presbytery  of  Glasgow  to  be 
colleague  and  successor  to  Dr  Ferrier,  Oakshaw  Street  United 
Secession  Church,  Paisley,  on  2nd  July,  1833. 

During  a  ministry  extending  to  close  upon  forty-eight  years 
Mr  France  took  an  active  part  in  the  business  of  the  large  and 
influential  Presbytery  of  Paisley  and  Greenock.  He  likewise 
fulfilled  many  important  duties  in  the  committees  of  the  Church. 
In  1877  he  had  the  honour  of  being  called  to  occupy  the 
Moderator's  chair  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  it  was  generally 
agreed  that  he  discharged  the  duties  of  his  high  office  with 
conspicuous  ability.  He  died  April  20th,  1881,  and  was  laid 
to  rest  in  Paisley  Cemetery. 

(8)  REV.  ALEXANDER  GRIERSON,  A.M. 
Alexander  Grierson  was  born  at  Bankhead,  Glencairn,  on 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.  119 

27th  October,  1817.  His  father,  Alexander  Grierson,  was 
descended  from  a  Covenanting  family,  the  Griersons  of 
Lochenkit,  while  his  mother,  Margaret  Cunningham,  was  a 
woman  of  true  piety.  Alexander  was  the  youngest  of  a  family 
of  nine.  He  early  developed  a  taste  for  books,  and  on  leaving 
Crossford  School,  Glencairn,  he  was  enrolled  as  a  pupil  at 
Dumfries  Academy.  He  carried  off  many  prizes,  and  at  the 
time  of  leaving  the  Academy  he  was  the  first  Latin  scholar  of 
the  year.  In  1830  his  father  left  Bankhead  and  entered  upon 
a  tenancy  of  the  neighbouring  farm  of  Straith.  The  Rev.  Dr 
Gordon,  already  mentioned,  was  a  frequent  visitor  at  Straith, 
and  Alexander  was  wont  to  declare  that  Dr  Gordon's  high- 
toned  conversation  was  a  source  of  deep  and  abiding  influence. 
On  recovering  from  a  protracted  attack  of  typhus  fever,  he 
entered  Glasgow  College  as  a  student  at  the  opening  of  the 
session  of  1835-6.  Shortly  afterwards  he  accepted  a  temporary 
appointment  as  mathematical  master  in  Wigtown  Academy. 
In  the  session  of  1838-9  he  returned  to  college,  and  at  the 
close  of  1842  he  received  the  degree  of  Master  of  Arts  with 
Honours.  He  then  proceeded  to  Edinburgh,  and  completed 
his  studies  in  the  Edinburgh  Divinity  Hall  under  Dr  Chalmers. 
When  the  Disruption  came  Mr  Grierson  joined  the  Free 
Church.  In  May,  1844,  a  unanimous  call  was  addressed  to 
him  by  the  Free  Church  Congregation  at  Irongray,  Kirkcud- 
brightshire. He  received  a  similar  call  from  Ecclefechan, 
Dumfriesshire,  but  many  circumstances  combined  to  determine 
him  in  favour  of  Irongray,  and  his  ordination  there  took  place 
on  4th  July,  1844.  Devoted  to  his  work,  and  winning  the 
respect  of  his  people,  he  spent  a  very  happy  life  at  Irongray. 
Mr  Grierson  was  twice  married:  first  to  Miss  Jessie  Hyndman 
Miller,  daughter  of  Alexander  Miller,  merchant,  Glasgow,  and 
afterwards  to  Miss  Anne  Hodge,  daughter  of  Archibald  Hodge, 
accountant,  Paisley.  He  died  5th  May,  1880,  and  was  buried 


120  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

in  Glencairn  Churchyard,  where  a  plain  granite  stone  marks  nis 
resting-place. 

(9)  JOHN  HYSLOP. 

John  Hyslop,  "The  Postman  Poet,"  was  born  at  Kirk- 
land,  Glencairn,  9th  February,  1837.  His  father  was  a 
labourer  in  the  employment  of  Sir  Robert  Laurie  of  Maxwelton 
at  a  wage  of  between  eight  and  ten  shillings  a  week,  and  the 
boy's  education,  according  to  Murdoch,  was  "  all  compressed 
within  one  year.  .  .  .  mostly  spent  at  an  auld  wife's 
village  schule."1  In  1852  the  family  removed  to  Kilmarnock. 
There  John  obtained  employment  as  a  letter  carrier,  and  he 
continued  to  act  in  that  capacity  until  shortly  before  his  death 
in  April,  1892.  A  small  volume  of  poems  from  his  pen  was 
published  in  1882,  and  a  memorial  volume,  containing  his 
collected  verses,  appeared  in  1895.  He  is  allotted  a  place  in 
Murdoch's  Living  Poets  of  Scotland,  where  his  poem,  "  Fever 
Stricken,"  and  other  products  of  his  muse,  are  mentioned  with 
approval. 

Shortly  before  his  death  he  contributed  a  set  of  verses, 
entitled  "The  King  has  called  me,"  to  the  columns  of  the 
Kilmarnock  Standard,  which  we  here  quote  in  full. 

THE  KING  HAS  CALLED  ME. 

The  King  has  called  me  to  his  side  to-night, 
Bring  me  white  garments — raiment  pure  as  snow, 
For  all  things  must  be  clean,  within,  without, 
When  I  into  His  Presence-chamber  go 
To  praise  His  name  who  now  has  stoop'd  so  low. 

Two  shining  ones  but  now  His  message  brought 
Here  to  this  lower  room  wherein  I  dwell, 
And,  while  their  glory  flooded  all  the  place, 
They  said  in  tones  clear  as  a  silver  bell, 
"  The  Master  calls  for  you,  and  all  is  well." 
1.  Recent  and  Living  Scotch  Poets,  1881, 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.  121 

I  hear  the  music  in  the  upper  rooms, 

My  soul  like  pent  bird  panteth  to  be  free ; 

When  that  has  passed  beyond  life's  prisoning  bars, 

Then  burn  or  bury,  do  what  pleaseth  thee 

With  the  worn  cage  that  is  no  longer  me, 

For  I  shall  neither  know,  nor  hear,  nor  see. 

O'er  the  cold  clod  where  for  a  space  I  dwelt 
No  loud  lamentings  make,  nor  sob,  nor  groan, 
No  useless  flood  of  tears,  nor  vain  regrets, 
Nor  wringing  hands  for  me  when  I  am  gone. 
Through  death's  dark  vale  and  up  the  golden  stairs ; 
Christ's  hand  in  mine,  I  go  not  forth  alone, 
But  go  to  meet  the  King  upon  His  Throne. 

Sometimes,  perchance,  amid  the  hurrying  years, 

With  friends  in  shady  nook  or  wooded  glen, 

You'll  say,  "  He  coined  his  soul's  best  thoughts  in  words, 

And  sent  them  rushing  through  his  ready  pen 

In  songs  of  hope  to  cheer  his  fellow-men." 

If  any  songs  of  all  the  songs  I've  sung 
Make  any  music  where  life's  discord  mars 
God's  harmonies,  and  through  the  souls  of  men 
Goes  echoing  on  to  heal  some  hidden  scars, 
Then  I  shall  hear  it  from  beyond  the  stars ! 

(10)  WALTER  PATON,  J.P.,  D.L. 

Walter  Paton  was  born  at  Dunreggan,  Moniaive,  in  1838. 
Leaving  his  native  village  in  his  fifteenth  year,  he  went  to 
Glasgow,  Where  he  entered  the  employment  of  Messrs  David 
Black  &  Co.,  wholesale  warehousemen.  Five  or  six  years  later 
he  started  business  as  a  retail  draper  on  his  own  account,  first 
in  High  Street,  and  afterwards  in  Jamaica  Street.  Subse- 
quently he  entered  the  wholesale  trade,  and  at  the  time  of  his 
death  he  was  a  partner  in  the  firms  of  Messrs  Walter  Paton  & 


122  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Co.,  general  warehousemen,  and  Messrs  Paton  &  Moultrie,  oiled 
garment  manufacturers,  both  of  Virginia  Street,  Glasgow. 

Mr  Paton  was  a  shareholder  in  the  City  of  Glasgow  Bank, 
and  suffered  severe  financial  losses  when  that  ill-starred  concern 
came  to  grief.  In  1884  he  was  elected  a  member  of  the  Town 
Council  of  Glasgow.  Four  years  later  he  was  raised  to  the 
magisterial  bench.  When  the  municipalisation  of  the  tramways 
came  up  for  consideration  he  was  made  convener  of  the  new 
Tramways  Committee,  and  under  his  vigorous  management  the 
former  horse  haulage  system  was  converted  into  the  present 
successful  electric  system.  He  thus  earned  for  himself  the 
familiar  cognomen  of  "the  pioneer  of  the  cars."  Among  his 
other  activities  Mr  Paton  was  a  member  of  the  Govan  Parochial 
Board,  of  the  Clyde  Trust,  and  of  Hutcheson's  Educational 
Trust.  He  was  also  a  Justice  of  the  Peace  for  the  City  of 
Glasgow.  As  an  elder  of  Pollokshields  West  United  Free 
Church  he  took  an  active  part  in  Mission  work,  especially 
amongst  the  young.  In  1904  he  was  presented  by  a  large  body 
of  subscribers  with  his  portrait  in  oils,  and  other  testimonials, 
in  recognition  of  his  valuable  public  services. 

He  died  at  his  residence,  Strathcairn,  Aytoun  Road, 
Pollokshields,  on  May  25th,  1906,  and  was  laid  to  rest  in  the 
Necropolis  of  the  city  he  had  served  so  well. 

(11)  JOHN  DALZIEL. 

John  Dalziel,  of  the  Free  Church  Mission,  Nagpur,  India, 
deserves  mention  as  a  worthy  son  of  the  parish.  Born  14th 
February,  1838,  he  decided  while  still  a  young  man  to  devote 
himself  to  Mission  work,  and  proceeded  to  India.  After 
labouring  for  several  years  with  devotion  as  a  catechist  or 
teacher,  he  died  of  cholera  at  his  post,  13th  November,  1876, 
aged  thirty-eight  years.  He  was  survived  by  a  widow  and  a 
family  of  two  sons  and  four  daughters.  Both  of  the  sons 
became  doctors,  one  in  Nigeria,  the  other  in  Calcutta.  One  of 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.  123 

the  daughters  elected  to  follow  in  her  father's  footsteps,  and 
entered  upon  Mission  work  at  Calcutta,  where  she  died.  The 
other  members  of  the  family  are  now  resident  in  Edinburgh. 

(12)  REV.  ALEXANDER  TODD. 

Alexander  Todd  was  born  at  Moniaive,  13th  October, 
1845.  His  father  was  a  mason  to  trade,  and  Alexander,  when 
studying  for  the  ministry,  supported  himself  by  following  the 
same  calling.  Thus,  as  a  working  mason,  he  helped  to  build 
the  walls  of  the  new  Glasgow  University,  Gilmorehill,  within 
which  he  was  afterwards  to  study.  While  attending  college  he 
took  an  active  part  in  evangelistic  work,  and  he  deserves  to  be 
remembered  as  one  of  the  noble  band  of  workers  who  pene- 
trated the  wynds  and  closes  of  Glasgow,  and  helped  to  set  the 
housing  of  the  poor  in  the  forefront  of  the  burning  questions  of 
the  day. 

In  1876  he  was  ordained  by  the  Presbytery  of  Glasgow  as  a 
Missionary  to  Madras.  After  a  brief  period  of  service  he,  with 
the  sanction  of  the  Foreign  Missions  Committee,  transferred  his 
labours  to  Chingleput,  where  he  conducted  a  successful  Mission 
until  loss  of  health  compelled  him  to  return  home.  Failing 
to  regain  health  in  Scotland,  he  was  urged  to  go  to  New 
Zealand,  and  he  sailed  for  that  country  in  1882.  He  bene- 
fited so  much  by  the  change  that  he  was  soon  able  to  accept 
a  charge  in  North  East  Valley.  Thereafter  he  was  called  to 
the  pastorate  of  Hampden  congregation,  where  he  laboured, 
happy  in  the  esteem  and  love  of  his  people,  until  his  death, 
10th  February,  1887.  He  was  buried  where  he  died,  and  his 
attached  congregation  have  since  erected  to  his  memory  a 
granite  monument,  which  bears  the  inscription: — 


124  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

3n  dfcemorg  of 
THE  REV.  ALEXANDER  TODD, 

who  died  at  the  Manse,  Hampden, 

10th  February,  1887,  Aged  41  Years. 

And  of  his  Daughter 

ISABELLA, 
Who  died  13th  October,  1886, 

Aged  Eight  Months. 
II.  CORINTHIANS,  v.,  i. 

(13)  ROBERT  MACKILL.          * 

Robert  Mackill,  founder  of  the  firm  of  Robert  Mackill 
&  Co.,  shipowners,  Glasgow,  was  born  at  Dungalston,  near 
Moniaive,  in  1848.  On  leaving  his  native  parish  he  entered 
the  office  of  Messrs  Burrell  &  Son,  Glasgow,  of  which  firm  he 
eventually  became  a  partner.  In  1881  he  started  the  firm  of 
Robert  Mackill  &  Co.,  and  under  his  management  as  senior 
partner  a  large  commercial  connection  was  soon  formed. 

Although  it  was  only  at  rare  intervals  that  Mr  Mackill 
visited  Glencairn,  he  never  ceased  to  take  a  warm  interest  in 
the  parish.  Almost  from  the  commencement  of  the  Glencairn 
and  Tynron  Horticultural  Society  he  offered  a  number  of  prizes 
annually  for  the  encouragement  of  horticulture  in  the  district-, 
and  in  1898  he  gifted  three  stained  glass  windows  to  Glencairn 
Free  Church,  primarily  as  a  memorial  of  his  father  and  mother, 
but  likewise  as  a  token  of  his  love  for  the  home  and  the  Church 
of  his  youth.  He  died  at  Glasgow,  12th  March,  1906,  in  his 
fifty-eighth  year. 


Before  leaving  this  part  of  our  subject  we  must  refer  to 
one  who,  although  not  born  in  Glencairn,  was  long  prominently 
associated  with  the  life  of  the  parish.  We  refer  to  the  late 
Colonel  Sir  George  Gustavus  Walker  of  Crawfordton.  Sir 
George  succeeded  to  the  estate  of  Crawfordton  on  the  death 


FAMOUS  SONS  AND  DAUGHTERS.  125 

of  his  father,  Mr  John  Walker,  D.L.,  in  1857.  He  afterwards 
purchased  Jarbruck  and  the  Hill  of  Peelton,  and  on  the  latter 
property  he  built  in  1863-66  a  handsome  mansion,  where  he 
resided  until  his  death  on  5th  August,  1897.  Sir  George's 
public  life  began  in  1855,  when  he  joined  the  Dumfries- 
shire Militia,  at  the  age  of  twenty-five,  with  the  rank  of 
Captain.  He  afterwards  devoted  a  large  part  of  his  time  to 
developing  and  perfecting  the  defensive  forces  of  the  country. 
In  1859  he  appeared  in  the  political  arena  as  an  independent 
candidate  for '  the  Dumfries  Burghs,  against  the  late  Mr 
William  Ewart.  Although  unsuccessful  at  the  poll  on  that 
occasion,  he  was  returned  unopposed  as  member  for  the  County 
in  1865  in  succession  to  the  late  Mr  Hope-Johnstone  of  Annan- 
dale.  He  had  the  distinction  of  being  appointed  Aide-de- 
Camp  to  the  Queen  in  1884,  and  knighthood  was  conferred 
upon  him  in  1892.  The  following  appreciation  by  one  who 
knew  him  intimately  forms  a  fitting  tribute  to  his  memory: — 
"  There  was  in  him  an  instinctive  hatred  of  anything  that  bor- 
dered upon  duplicity  and  time-serving,  and  he  would  condemn 
such  conduct  in  language  forcible  and  true.  He  knew  what 
he  felt  and  meant  himself,  and  he  took  care  that  others  knew 
it  also.  Such  thorough-going,  outspoken  honesty  is  especially 
valuable  in  a  soft  and  selfish  age,  when  principle  often  gives 
way  to  expediency,  and  men  ask  not  what  is  right  and  what 
is  true,  but  what  is  easy  and  profitable  and  likely  to  bring  in  a 
quick  return.  ...  As  long  as  health  and  strength  were 
given  him  he  wrought  loyally  for  others,  for  home  and  family, 
for  country,  and  for  Queen ;  now  he  rests  from  his  labours,  and 
his  works  do  follow  him."1 

It  only  remains  to  indicate  briefly  how  the  parish  is  taking 
part  in  the  life  and  work  of  the  present  day.     It  will  be  seen 
that  Glencairn  is  represented  by  her  living  sons  and  daughters 
1.  The  Rev.  Sir  Emilius  Laurie,  Bart.,  B.D.     In  Memoriam  Sermon. 


126  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

in  many  spheres.       In  the  Church  we  have  the  Rev.  William 
Neve  Monteith,  B.D.,  parish  minister  of  Elie;  the  Rev.  Hugh 
Carmichael  Walker,  M.A.,  rector  of  Wooton,  Canterbury;  also 
the  Rev.  Charles  Henley  Walker,  M.A.,  who,  along  with  two 
sisters,  Jessie  Eleanor  and  Edith  Maud,  is  engaged  in  missionary 
work  in  India ;  while  in  the  lay  part  of  Church  work,  in  agricul- 
ture, in  parish  and  county  government,  and  other  spheres — for 
we  can  mention  only  a  few  of  his  activities — we  have  William 
Barber,  Esq.  of  Tererran,  M.A.,  J.P.     The  medical  profession 
is  represented  by  Professor  James  T.  Wilson,  of  Sydney  Univer- 
sity; and  by  Doctors  Borrowman,  Proudfoot,  Blackley,  Kidd, 
and  Monteith ;  nursing  by  Miss  Mabel  Caroline  Walker,  formerly 
matron  Soldiers'  Home,  Pietermaritzburg,  now  matron  Soldiers' 
Home,  York ;  education   by    Mr   James    Fergusson^Morpeth ; 
journalism  by   Mr  William  Fergusson,   Manchester,1  and   Mr 
William   Dickie,Wsub-editor   of   the    Dumfries   and.    Galloway 
Standard;  the  navy  by  Frederick  Murray  Walker,  Commander 
R.N. ;  the  army  by  Captain  James  Charles  Walter  Connell,  1st 
Battalion  King's  Own  Scottish  Borderers;  Major  William  M'Call 
of  Bardennoch,  3rd  Battalion  K.O.S.B. ;  Captain  John  C.  Mon- 
teith, 1st  Battalion  Bedfordshire    Regiment;    Captain    George 
Laurie  Walker  of  Crawfordton,  late  Captain  Argyle  and  Suther- 
land Highlanders ;  and  Colonel  Claude  Villiers  Emilius  Laurie, 
C.B.,  D.S.O.,  late  Commanding  Officer  3rd  Battalion  K.O.S.B., 
a  worthy  foster-son  of  the  parish.     Outside  the  professions  there 
are  many  who  hold  responsible  appointments  in  the  Civil  Service 
or  fill  positions  of  trust  in  the  commercial  sphere.       As  time 
passes  on  we  doubt  not  that  other  sons  and  daughters  will  arise 
to  maintain  the  honourable  record. 
_*   1.  Since  this  reference  was  penned  William  Fergusson  has  passed  to  his  rest,  -f 


CHAPTER  XIII.— BURNS  AND  GLENCAIRN. 

The  transcendent  fame  of  the  poet  Burns  confers  distinc- 
tion upon  any  place  associated  with  either  his  personality  or 
his  poetry.  As  Glencairn  was  one  of  the  Dumfriesshire 
parishes  over  which  he  exercised  supervision  as  an  exciseman, 
and  Crossford  one  of  the  places  regularly  visited  by  him 
in  the  discharge  of  his  official  duties,  the  poet-gauger's  con- 
nection with  the  parish  may  be  said  to  have  been  of  a  some- 
what intimate  character.  Whether  Burns  in  the  course  of  his 
visits  entered  Glencairn  from  the  south  by  way  of  Dunscore,  or 
from  the  north  by  way  of  Tynron,  cannot  be  stated  with  cer- 
tainty. Part  of  an  Excise  book  is  in  existence  in  which  the 
places  of  call  appear  in  the  following  order: — "Thornhill, 
Penpont,  Cairnmill,  Tyneron,  Crossford,  Dunscore."  This 
probably  implies  that  he  travelled  up  the  valley  of  the  Nith, 
and  returned  by  the  valley  of  the  Cairn.  Be  that  as  it  may, 
his  visits  to  Crossford  must  often  have  brought  him  into  contact 
with  such  friends  as  Riddell  of  Glenriddell,  Laurie  of  Maxwel- 
ton,  and  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch,  and  it  may  safely  be 
assumed  that  to  the  poet  Glencairn  had  other  memories  than 
those  associated  with 

"  Searching  auld  wives'  barrels, 
Och,  hon!  the  day!" 

It  is  to  this  period  that  the  song  of  "  The  Whistle  "  belongs, 
and  although  the  scene  of  the  famous  bacchanalian  contest 
which  it  celebrates  was  Friars'  Carse,  in  Dunscore  parish,  the 
contestants — who  were  the  three  gentlemen  we  have  just  named 
— were  all  connected  territorially  with  Glencairn.  The 
"minute  of  bett  "  possesses  a  curious  interest,  and  may  here 
be  quoted: — 

"  The  whistle  gained  by  Sir  Robert  Laurie  (now)  in  posses- 


128  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

sion  of  Mr  Riddell  of  Glenriddel,  is  to  be  ascertained  to  the 
heirs  of  the  said  Sir  Robert  now  existing,  being  Sir  Robert 
Laurie,  Mr  Riddell  of  Glenriddel,  and  Mr  Fergusson  of  Craig- 
darroch,  to  be  settled  under  the  arbitration  of  Mr  Jn.  M'Murdo, 
the  business  to  be  decided  at  Carse,  the  16th  of  October,  1789. 
"(Signed) 

"  ALEX.    FERGUSSON. 
"R.  LAURIE. 
"  ROBT.  RIDDEL. 
"  Cowhill,  10th  October,  1789. 

"  JNO.  M'Murdo  accepts  as  judge. 

"  GEO.  JOHNSTON,  witness,  to  be  present. 

"PATRICK  MILLER,  witness,  to  be  pre.  if  possible." 


THE   CBAIGDARROCH    WHISTLK. 

The  victor  in  the  strange  contest  was  Mr  Alex.  Fergusson, 
and  the  whistle  upon  which  he  blew  the  "  requiem  shrill  ' '  of 
the  competitors  he  had  vanquished  is  now  among  the  heirlooms 
of  the  Fergusson  family.  It  is  of  interest  to  notice  that  the 
first  Scottish  winner  of  the  trophy,  of  whom  we  have  any  know- 
ledge, was  the  father  of  "  bonnie  Annie  Laurie,"  and  that  the 
historic  contest,  sung  by  Burns,  was  between  two  of  Annie 
Laurie's  grand-nephews  and  a  grandson. 

There  are  other  passages  in  the  poet's  published  writings 
that  link  his  verse  to  Glencairn.  The  set  of  elegiac  verses 
commencing 

"  Fate  gave  the  word,  the  arrow  sped, ' ' 
was  addressed  by  the  poet  to  Mrs  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch 


BURNS  AND  GLENCAIRN.  129 

on  the  death  of  her  son,  a  young  man  of  promise.  His  friend 
and  patron  Robert  Riddell  of  Glenriddell  has  been  honoured  in 
no  fewer  than  four  sets  of  verses.  There  are  likewise  verses 
addressed  to  Mr  William  Nicol  and  Mrs  Walter  Riddell.  It 
was  long  believed  that  Lagganpark,  in  Glencairn,  was  the 
scene  of  the  convivial  meeting  celebrated  by  Burns  in  the 
song,  "Willie  brewed  a  peck  o'  maut,"  but  Dr  Currie's  state- 
ment on  this  point  may  now  be  considered  discredited.  If  the 
meeting  really  took  place  at  Laggan  it  is  difficult  to  conceive 
what  object  the  poet  could  have  had  in  saying  "  the  meeting  was 
held  at  Moffat."1  Moreover,  William  Nicol  did  not  purchase 
Laggan  until  the  end  of  March,  1790,  and  as  two  verses  of  the 
song  are  quoted  by  Burns  in  a  letter  written  in  October  of  the 
previous  year,  it  seems  reasonably  certain  that  Dr  Currie  is  in 
error  when  he  says  that  the  verses  were  written  in  honour  of 
William  Nicol's  house-heating  on  entering  the  farm  of  Laggan. 
To  Glencairn,  however,  undoubtedly  belongs  the  distinc- 
tion of  having  furnished  Burns  with  the  only  subject  that  ever 
seriously  engaged  his  attention  as  a  would-be  dramatist. 
Writing  to  the  Countess  of  Glencairn  from  Ellisland  in  Decem- 
ber, 1789,  he  says: — "  I  have  turned  my  thoughts  on  the  drama. 
.  .  .  .  Does  not  your  ladyship  think  that  an  Edinburgh 
theatre  would  be  more  amused  with  affectation,  folly,  and 
whim  of  true  Scottish  growth  than  manners  which  by  far  the 
greatest  part  of  the  audience  can  only  know  at  second  hand?" 
Chambers  suggests  that  the  poet's  ambition  in  the  direction  of 
the  drama  had  been  stimulated  by  reading  English  plays  and 
visiting  the  Dumfries  theatre;  but,  from  whatever  source 
derived,  it  is  evident  from  a  letter  written  by  his  friend  Mr 
Ramsay  of  Ochtertyre  to  Dr  Currie  that  it  was  cherished  for 
some  considerable  time.  Dr  Ramsay,  describing  a  visit  paid  to 
the  poet  in  the  autumn  of  1790,  says: — "We  fell  into  conversa- 

1.  Letter  to  Cax>tain  RiddeU,  16th  Oct.,  1789. 


130  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

tion  directly  and  soon  got  into  the  mare  magnum  of  poetry. 
He  told  me  that  he  had  now  gotten  a  story  for  a  drama,  which 
he  was  to  call  Rob  Macquechan' s  Elshon,  from  a  popular  story 
of  Robert  Bruce  being  defeated  on  the  water  of  Cairn,  when 
the  heel  of  his  boot  having  loosened  in  flight  he  applied  to 
Robert  Macquechan  to  fit  it,  who,  to  make  sure,  ran  his  awl 
nine  inches  up  the  King's  heel."  "What,"  says  Chambers, 
"  even  so  lively  a  wit  could  have  made  of  such  an  incident  as 
Rob  Macquechan 's  elshon  we  cannot  tell.  It  does  not  seem  to 
have  ever  gone  beyond  an  intention." 

It  is  possible,  however,  that  there  were  details  in  the  story 
not  mentioned  by  Dr  Currie's  correspondent,  and  in  this  connec- 
tion it  is  interesting  to  compare  the  legend  as  we  have  it  to-day 
with  the  version  given  by  Mr  Ramsay.     M'Caughie — this,   it 
appears,  is  the  correct  form  of  the  name — was  a  cobbler  to  trade 
and  very  deaf.    When  King  Robert  the  Bruce  asked  for  repairs 
to  his  boot  heel  the  cobbler  replied  "Dae  what?"  (do  what?). 
The  request  was  repeated,  but  with  no  better  result.       Out  of 
patience  with  the  apparently  dull-witted  cobbler,  the  King  in  a 
loud  and  somewhat  peremptory  tone  again  stated  his  request. 
This  time  the  cobbler  understood  what  was  wanted,  and  not  only 
undertook  the  job  but  also  performed  it  so  well  that  the  Bruce 
bestowed  upon  him  a  grant  of  lands  to  be  called  Dae-what 
(Dalwhat).       This  story,  it  need  scarcely    be    said,  is    more 
ingenious  than  reliable.     The  place-name  Dalwhat  is  almost 
certainly  far  older  than  the  days  of  King  Robert  the  Bruce,  and 
its  meaning  as  given  elsewhere,  if  less  romantic,  is  certainly 
far  more  illuminative.1 

1.  It  does  nob  follow  that  Bruce  never  visited  Glencairn.  On  the 
contrary,  traditions  of  his  presence  in  the  parish  are  extremely  persistent, 
and  whether  or  not  we  accept  the  highly  circumstantial  account  given  by 
John  Gordon  Barbour  in  his  Unique  Traditions  of  an  engagement  with 
the  English  a  little  to  the  east  of  Moniaive,  in  which  Bruce  personally 
commanded,  it  is  at  least  probable  that  the  brave  assertor  of  Scottish 
independence  must  often  have  passed  through  the  parish  in  the  course  of 
his  journeyings  between  Ayrshire  and  the  south-west  of  Scotland.  In 


BURNS  AND  GLENCAIRN.  131 

The  Rev.  Dr  King  Hewison,  of  Rothesay,  a  recognised 
authority  on  literary  and  antiquarian  subjects,  has  recently 
suggested  that  Burns 's  "Address  to  the  Deil  "  is  associated  with 
Glencairn.  He  thinks  it  probable  that  the  poet  derived  his 
inspiration  from  an  account1  published  (Glasgow,  1772)  by  John 
Stevenson,  Land  Labourer,  of  a  personal  encounter  which  he 
had  with  Satan  in  the  policies  of  Craigdarroch.  The  poem 
certainly  contains  verses  that  recall  Stevenson's  curious  account, 
and  it  is  noteworthy  that  the  idea  of  the  Address  was  suggested 
to  Burns,  as  he  himself  declares,  by  "  running  over  in  his  mind 
the  many  ludicrous  accounts  and  representations  we  have  from 
various  quarters  of  this  august  personage."  The  point,  unfor- 
tunately, does  not  admit  of  verification.  Once  more,  Burns 's 
references  to  James,  Earl  of  Glencairn,  are  of  interest  as 
addressed  to  one  who  derived  his  title  from  the  parish.  Deep 
as  the  poet's  obligations  to  that  estimable  nobleman  un- 
doubtedly were,  they  have  been  amply  discharged,  for  he  has 
embalmed  his  memory  in  imperishable  verse. 

"  The  bridegroom  may  forget  the  bride, 

Was  made  his  wedded  wife  yestreen ; 
The  monarch  may  forget  the  crown 

That  on  his  head  an  hour  has  been ; 
The  mother  may  forget  the  child 

That  smiles  sae  sweetly  on  her  knee; 
But  I'll  remember  thee,  Glencairn, 

An'  a'  that  thou  hast  done  for  me!" 

Bain's  Calendar  of  Documents  relating  to  Scotland  (Vol.  II.,  p.  311)  we 
find  an  interesting  reference  to  the  presence  of  the  Scots  army  in  the 
near  neighbourhood  of  Glencairn  in  the  autumn  of  1301.  "  William  de 
Dorem  his  bachelor,  to  the  K,  Informs  him  that  this  Monday  next  after 
the  feast  of  St.  Matthew,  a  spy  came  to  him  at  Peblys  from  Nithsdale,  and 
told  him  for  certain  that  the  Scots  who  were  in  Galloway  had  retreated 
towards  Nithsdale,  and  this  Sunday  last  were  at  '  les  Kellys,"  and  would 
be  on  Monday  after  at  Glencarn,  but  whither  from  thence  they  would 
'  draw,'  he  did  not  certify  him.  Whereon  he  sent  the  news  at  once  to 
all  the  K.'s  garrisons,  that  they  should  be  careful  of  the  K.'s  ordnances 
and  honour  as  lately  commanded,  by  God's  aid." 

1.  A  Rare  Soul- Strengthening  and  Comfortiny  Cordial  for  Old  and   Youny 

Christians. 


CHAPTER  XIV.— INDUSTRIES,  PAST  AND  PRESENT. 

The  chief  industry  of  the  parish  is  agriculture.  Down  to 
near  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  soil  was  cultivated 
in  an  extremely  primitive  fashion.  In  illustration  of  this  it  may 
be  mentioned  that  less  than  a  hundred  years  ago  men  and  even 
women  were  occasionally  yoked  to  the  plough  and  the  harrow 
in  much  the  same  way  as  horses  are  yoked  to-day.  An  intelli- 
gent villager,  still  living,  remembers  seeing  the  whole  of  a  large 
feu  at  the  Neiss  cultivated  in  this  fashion,  a  mother  and  her 
daughter  being  yoked  to  the  plough,  while  a  male  member  of 
the'  family  held  the  shafts.  In  another  instance,  still  more 
recent,  all  the  harrowing  of  a  considerable  plot  of  ground  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Moniaive  was  done  by  one  of  the  daughters  of 
the  family  dragging  a  large  bundle  of  thorns,  weighted  with 
stones,  over  the  surface  of  the  ground.  It  may  be  readily 
understood  that  the  crops  raised  under  such  simple  methods  of 
tillage  were  extremely  poor. 

The  more  intelligent  farmers  were  beginning  to  shake 
off  the  fetters  of  custom,  however,  and  a  great  impetus  was 
given  in  this  direction  by  the  establishment  in  1784  of  the  High- 
land and  Agricultural  Society  of  Scotland.  This  Society,  by 
means  of  its  publications,  induced  land-owners  to  consider  the 
possibility  of  improving  their  estates,  and  in  a  short  time  a  new 
interest  began  to  be  taken,  not  only  in  the  improvement  of  land, 
but  also  in  all  else  that  concerned  the  pursuit  of  agriculture. 
"Soon  after  the  second  Rebellion,"  says  M'Dowall,  "increased 
attention  was  paid  to  tillage  by  the  farmers  of  Nithsdale. 
Fields  were  enclosed,  waste  lands  were  reclaimed;  shell-marl 
and  lime  lent  their  fertilizing  influence  to  the  soil."1  There 
1.  History  of  Dumfries,  3rd  Edition,  p.  600. 


INDUSTRIES,  PAST  AND  PRESENT.  133 

were  some,  however,  who  refused  to  be  influenced  by  such 
"giddy-headed  projectors,"  and  there  were  others  who,  while 
less  conservative,  were  either  too  dull-witted  or  too  indolent  to 
profit  by  the  example  of  their  more  enterprising  neighbours. 
An  individual  of  the  latter  class  is  said  to  have  conveyed  a  load 
of  lime  to  the  centre  of  one  of  his  fields,  where,  having  dumped 
it  down,  he  remarked,  with  the  air  of  one  who  had  done  all  that 
could  reasonably  be  expected  of  him,  "  There,  that  shou'd 
shairly  warm  your  auld  hairt."  Other  mistakes  of  a  more  excus- 
able kind  were  made.  Thus,  some  were  tempted  by  the  wonder- 
ful results  produced  to  carry  the  system  of  liming  too  far,  and 
we  are  told  that  the  consequences  were  in  many  instances  dis- 
astrous. 

Simultaneously  with  improved  methods  of  cultivation,  the 
erection  of  march  and  sub-division  fences  became  general. 
This  conferred  two  distinct  benefits  upon  the  farmer.  It  re- 
duced the  labour  of  tending  cattle,  and  it  helped  to  clear  the 
land  of  a  superabundance  of  stones.  Stone  fences  are  now 
being  replaced  to  a  large  extent  by  wooden  palings,  but  we  are 
disposed  to  agree  with  the  shrewd  old  farmer  who  was  quoted 
one  day  in  our  hearing :  "  I  like  a  stane.  dyke ;  when  it  tumbles 
doon  there's  aye  something  left  to  begin  wi'  again." 

Although  oats  was  the  principal  crop,  wheat,  barley,  pease, 
and  beans  were  all  grown  to  a  limited  extent.  Small  plots  of 
flax  were  likewise  cultivated,  the  portion  of  ground  set  apart 
for  this  purpose  being  called  the  "  hemp  rig."  When  this  crop 
was  ripe,  it  was  tied  in  sheaves  and  stocked  for  a  few  days.  It 
was  then  steeped  in  one  or  other  of  the  lint  wells,  which  were 
to  be  found  in  the  parish,  and  was  allowed  to  remain  there  until 
the  "souring"  process,  as  it  was  called,  had  proceeded  far 
enough.  The  flax  was  then  dried  and  sent  to  the  mill  to  be 
converted  into  lint.  It  may  be  of  interest  to  mention  that  Cors- 
molloch  spring,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Moniaive,  was  long  in 
favour  as  a  place  for  the  steeping  of  lint.  The  nearest  lint  mill 


134  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

appears  to  have  been  in  Dunscore  parish.  The  lint  was  after- 
wards spun,  during  the  long  winter  evenings,  on  the  "wee  wheel" 
at  home.  Out  of  the  coarser  sorts  "harn"  shirts  were  made 
for  the  men,  while  the  finer  qualities  were  woven  into  linen  for 
napery,  an  important  part  of  the  "  plenishing  "  that  every  bride 
was  expected  to  contribute  towards  the  equipment  of  her  future 
home.  There  are  families  in  the  district  that  still  possess  speci- 
mens of  this  home-made  linen.  These  they  rightly  prize,  for 
the  articles  are  of  beautiful  design  and  workmanship,  and  prove 
that  the  art  of  home  weaving  had  been  brought  to  a  high  degree 
of  perfection.  Down  to  the  latter  part  of  the  eighteenth  century 
the  manufacture  of  linen  continued  to  occupy  an  important  posi- 
tion amongst  the  domestic  industries,  but  from  that  time  onward 
it  steadily  declined. 

Mention  must  be  made  of  another  class  of  remains  asso- 
ciated with  agriculture.  We  refer  to  the  kilns  or  "killogies," 
which  the  farmers  used  for  drying  their  grain  before  grinding  it 
into  meal.  These  interesting  structures,  although  by  no  means 
uncommon,  so  often  resemble  a  natural  depression  in  the  ground 
that  they  may  easily  be  overlooked.  Well-defined  examples 
may  be  seen  on  the  lands  of  Marwhirn  and  Crawfordton  in 
Glencairn,  and  on  the  lands  of  Shillingland  in  Dunscore,  close 
to  where  that  parish  marches  with  Glencairn. 

Glencairn  was  prominently  identified  with  another,  and,  for 
a  time  at  least,  important  branch  of  agricultural  industry, 
namely,  the  droving  of  cattle  to  England.  A  more  or  less  inter- 
mittent trade  of  this  kind  had  apparently  existed  in  the  district 
from  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century,  but  it  was  not 
till  the  century  was  near  a  close  that  the  trade  reached  its 
highest  development.  At  that  time,  according  to  the  estimate 
of  Sir  John  Sinclair,  about  100,000  head  of  cattle  were  sent  to 
England  yearly  from  Scotland,  and  of  that  number  we  know 
that  a  large  proportion — possibly  not  less  than  one-sixth — was 


INDUSTRIES,  PAST  AND  PRESENT.  135 

contributed  by  the  three  south-western  counties.  The  trade 
was  in  the  main  profitable,  but  it  was  liable  to  great  vicissitudes. 
Messrs  Smith  of  Jarbruck,  Glencairn,  were  its  principal  local 
representatives.  When  a  sufficient  number  of  cattle  had  been 
bought,  they  were  collected  into  droves  to  be  dispatched,  under 
the  care  of  a  "topsman"  on  horseback  and  a  number  of 
assistants  on  foot,  to  the  English  markets.  An  old  villager, 
now  deceased,  remembered  seeing  a  drove  that  extended  from 
Jarbruck  to  Dunscore,  a  distance  of  between  five  and  six  miles. 
Although  vehicular  traffic  at  that  time  was  much  less  common 
than  it  now  is,  the  management  of  such  a  large  herd  must  have 
been  a  task  of  no  little  difficulty,  and  the  wonder  is  that  losses 
from  mishap  were  so  few. 

DOMESTIC  INDUSTRIES. 

Among  the  women  and  girls  of  the  community  muslin  em- 
broidery or  "flowering,"  as  it  was  called,  was  largely  practised 
in  Glencairn.  The  importance  of  the  industry  may  be  gathered 
from  the  fact  that  "during  the  first  six  months  of  1853,  one 
Glasgow  house  alone  paid  £90,000  to  muslin  sewers  scattered 
over  the  country."1  Flowering,  of  course,  was  much  less 
exacting,  physically,  than  field  labour.  Hence,  when  some 
amazon  of  the  harvest  rig  wanted  to  show  her  contempt  for  a 
lagging  fellow-worker  she  was  wont  to  declare,  "  Hets,  ye 're  nae 
better  than  a  Moniaive  floorer."  It  is  of  interest  to  know  that 
down  to  little  more  than  forty  years  ago  a  .village  dame  con- 
tinued to  collect  "  wabs  "  of  flowering  to  be  transmitted  to  firms 
trading  in  this  class  of  goods. 

Hand   knitting   was   another   common   occupation   of   the 

people,  and  it  seems  to  have  been  engaged  in  without  distinction 

of  sex  or  class.     A  few  other  industries,  most,  if  not  all,  of 

which  are  now  extinct,  were  carried  on  to  a  limited  extent  in 

1.  Great  Industries  of  Great  Britain, 


136  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

the  parish;  namely,  weaving,  coopering,  thatching,  basket- 
making,  candle-making,  nail-making,  and  slate  quarrying.  Of 
these,  weaving  was  undoubtedly  the  most  important,  a  consider- 
able number  finding  employment  in  weaving  the  yarns  spun  in 
the  households  of  farmers,  tradesmen,  and  others,  into  cloth 
for  the  use  of  their  families.  Work  of  this  kind  was  well  paid, 
and  to  become  a  weaver  was  often  the  height  of  a  village  boy's 
ambition.  An  apprentice  on  entering  upon  work  had  to  sign  an 
"Indenture,"  and  on  leaving  he  received  a  "Discharge."  By 
the  courtesy  of  Mr  John  Crinean,  ex-Registrar,  we  are  able  to 
subjoin  a  copy  of  a  document  of  the  latter  class.  This  may 
serve  to  illustrate  an  almost  forgotten  phase  of  village  life. 

DISCHARGE  JAMES  MUIRHEAD,  WEAVER,  TO  JOHN  MUIRHEAD, 
WEAVER,  1776. 

I,    James    Muirhead,    Weaver   in    Minihive, 

WHEREAS  John  Muirhead,  likewise  in  Minihive,  my  Brother, 
hath  for  the  space  of  FOUR  years  immediately  preceding  the 
term  of  Lammas  last,  Conform  to  Contract  and  Agreement 
made  and  Entered  into  by  me  with  him  for  that  Effect,  faith- 
fully, honestly,  and  truly,  as  a  Servant  and  Apprentice,  served 
me  the  said  James  Muirhead  in  my  Art,  Trade,  and  Calling  of 
Weaver-work;  With  which  Service  and  Apprenticeship  I  hereby 
hold  me  well  content  and  satisfied,  and  renounce  all  Objections 
and  exceptions  in  the  contrary ;  THEREFORE  WIT  YE  ME  the  said 
James  Muirhead  to  have  exonered,  quitclaimed  and  discharged, 
As  by  these  presents  I  exoner,  quitclaim  and  discharge  the  said 
John  Muirhead,  my  Apprentice  foresaid,  of  all  Clags  and 
Claims,  Debts  and  Sums  of  money  in  name  of  'Prenticefee,  or 
other  prestations  whatever,  Exigible  by  me  of  him  by  and 
through  his  said  Service  and  Apprenticeship  allenarly;  And  of 
all  Action  and  purguit  aniwise  competent  to  me  for  the  same. 
And  I  hereby  bind  and  oblige  myself  to  reiterate  and  renew  this 


INDUSTRIES,  PAST  AND  PRESENT.  137 

present  Discharge  upon  paper  duly  stamped,  if  required  by  him, 
and  that  at  his  sole  Charges  and  Expenses;  Amplifying  and 
enlarging  the  same  with  a  Clause  Warrandice  from  me,  my 
Heirs  and  Executors,  to  the  said  John  Muirhead  and  his  Heirs 
and  Executors,  Clause  of  Registration,  and  all  other  Clauses 
needful  for  their  further  and  full  security  in  the  premisses. 
And  in  testimony  thereof  I  have  subscribed  these  Presents, 
written  upon  this  and  the  preceeding  page  by  Robert  Davidson, 
Postmaster  at  Minihive,  this  TENTH  day  of  December,  One 
Thousand  seven  hundred  and  seventy-six  years,  before  these 
Witnesses,  William  Wallace,  Robert  Hunter,  and  James  Max- 
well, all  Weavers  in  Minihive. 

X     JAMES  MUIRHEAD. 

MODERN  AGRICULTURE. 

To-day  Glencairn  is  chiefly  famous  for  its  sheep-walks. 
During  the  last  twenty  years  there  has  been  a  tendency  to 
replace  Cheviot  or  Whiteface  sheep  by  the  Blackface  breed, 
thus  reversing  the  tendency  that  Mr  Smith  says1  was  apparent 
in  1876.  It  is  possible  that  the  recent  advance  in  the  value  of 
Cheviot  wool  will  act  as  a  check  upon  any  further  development 
in  the  same  direction,  but  at  the  present  time  we  believe  that 
fully  one-half  of  the  sheep  stocks  in  Glencairn  are  of  the  Black- 
face variety. 

The  favourite  breed  of  cattle  is  the  Ayrshire.  The  late 
Mr  James  M'Millan  of  Woodlea  was  unceasing  in  his  efforts  to 
improve  and  popularise  this  valuable  breed,  and  to-day  there 
are  few  parishes  in  which  the  Ayrshire  may  be  seen  in  greater 
perfection.  At  the  annual  sales  of  Ayrshire  calving  heifers 
held  at  Castle-Douglas,  those  from  Tererran  have  invariably 
taken  a  prominent  place,  not  seldom  heading  the  list  of 
averages.  In  1909  Mr  Barber's  queys  made  a  price  which  for 
commercial  unpedigreed  animals  will  be  hard  to  beat,  namely, 
1,  Monteith's  The  Parish  of  Glencaim,  p.  54. 


138  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

£17  6s  for  twenty-four,  the  ten  best  making  no  less  than  £20 
a-piece.  Other  lots  from  Crawfordton,  Shancastle,  Straith, 
and  Woodlea — all  farms  in  the  Glencairn  area— realised  prices 
only  very  slightly  lower.  During  recent  years  one  of  the 
principal  land-owners  of  the  parish,  the  Rev.  Sir  Emilius 
Laurie,  Bart,  of  Maxwelton,  has  turned  his  attention  to  the 
Ayrshire  breed,  and  he  is  already  known  as  a  leading  prize- 
winner at  the  principal  district  shows.  Although  the  parish  has 
long  been  considered  most  suitable  for  the  Ayrshire,  not  a  few 
Galloways  have  been  seen  from  time  to  time,  diversifying  the 
landscape  with  their  handsome  frames  and  glossy  coats.  Mr 
Francis  N.  M.  Gourlay  founded  a  herd  of  Galloways  at  Two- 
merkland  in  1898,  largely  built  up  by  purchases  from  the  famous 
stocks  of  Tarbreoch,  Chapelton,  Castlemilk,  Lochenkit,  and 
Glasnick.  Removing  to  Craigneston  in  1906,  he  began  to 
exhibit  in  1907,  and  since  then  he  has  come  rapidly  to  the  front, 
both  as  a  fancier  and  as  an  exhibitor  of  the  breed.  One  of  his 
animals,  "  Keystone  "  by  name,  was  champion  at  the  Highland 
and  Agricultural  Society's  show  at  Aberdeen  in  1908,  and  also 
the  winner  of  premier  honours  for  aged  bulls  at  the  Royal  Agri- 
cultural Society  of  England's  show  held  at  Liverpool  in  1910. 
To  Mr  Gourlay  the  parish  is  also  indebted  for  the  introduction 
of  a  beautiful  stud  of  Shetland  ponies,  with  which  he  has  been 
a  successful  exhibitor  at  leading  shows. 

For  reasons  that  are  difficult  to  explain  dairy-farming  has 
not  been  developed  to  any  extent  in  the  parish.  One  local 
agriculturalist,  whose  opinion  is  entitled  to  respect,  anticipates 
the  day  when  a  flourishing  butter  factory  will  be  established  in 
Glencairn.  As  the  parish  is  well  adapted  to  dairying,  the  idea 
is  in  no  way  chimerical.  The  fattening  of  cattle,  and  the 
breeding  and  rearing  of  pigs,  receive  very  little  attention. 
Although  farmyard  fowls  are  generally  kept,  systematic  poultry- 
farming  is  all  but  unknown.  Now  that  railway  facilities  for  the 


INDUSTRIES,  PAST  AND  PRESENT.  139 

marketing  of  produce  have  been  provided,  it  may  reasonably  be 
expected  that  the  economic  value  and  importance  of  this  last 
branch  of  agricultural  industry  will  become  better  recognised. 

The  staple  crops  of  the  parish  are  hay,  oats,  turnips,  and 
potatoes.  As  a  rule,  hay  and  oats  are  no  more  than  average 
crops,  but  on  Crawfordton  home  farm,  and  one  or  two  other 
farms,  both  oat  and  hay  crops  are  sometimes  raised  far  in  excess 
of  the  average.  Turnips  and  potatoes  are  generally  good. 

Modes  of  Husbandry  : — 

On  arable  lands  a  system  of  six-year  rotation  prevails. 
The  course  of  cropping  is  generally  as  follows : — First  year, 
Oats  after  lea ;  Second  year,  Green  crop  (Turnips  or  Potatoes) ; 
Third  year,  Oats  after  green  crop ;  Fourth  year,  Ryegrass 
(either  for  hay  or  for  pasture);  Fifth  and  sixth  ytars,  Pasture. 
Generally  speaking,  the  lea  corn  and  the  green  crop  are  liberally 
manured,  and  very  often  farmyard  manure  or  lime  is  applied 
to  the  young  grass. 

Leases : — 

Leases  are  commonly  for  fifteen  years,  with  mutual 
breaks  at  the  end  of  five  and  ten  years.  On  one  large  estate  in 
the  parish  a  system  of  annual  leases  has  been  introduced,  but  it 
is  too  soon  to  speak  of  the  results  of  this  departure. 

Wages : — 

The  Rev.  William  Grierson,  when  writing  his  account 
of  the  parish  of  Glencairn  during  the  closing  decade  of  the 
eighteenth  century,  concluded  his  references  to  the  economic 
conditions  of  the  parish  as  follows : — "  The  charge  of  living,  and 
the  hire  of  labourers  and  servants  of  every  denomination  con- 
tinually increases.  A  common  labourer  gets  £6  and  some  £10 
in  the  year  besides  bed,  board,  and  washing,  and  8d,  or  indeed, 

at  some  employments  Is,  per  day,  besides  victuals 

If  things  go  on  as  they  have  done  for  some  years  past,  such  high 


140  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

wages  will  doubtless  become  more  frequent."  No  one  will  be 
disposed  to  question  the  prescience  of  the  writer.  To-day  un- 
married men  receive  on  an  average  £30  in  the  year,  and  women 
servants  £20  to  £22.  Although  the  wages  of  married  men  have 
not  risen  to  a  corresponding  extent,  there  has  been  material  im- 
provement in  their  case  also,  more  especially  during  the  last 
fifty  years.  Shepherds  now  receive  £50  on  an  average,  and 
ploughmen  £48.  The  full  wage  is  not  always  paid  in  money; 
indeed,  it  is  the  rule  to  deduct  a  proportion  for  cow's  grass  and 
for  certain  quantities  of  meal  and  potatoes,  but  this  is  an 
arrangement  that  appears  to  be  satisfactory  to  both  parties. 
Lambing  assistants  have  often  to  be  employed  for  about  four 
weeks  in  the  year,  and  £6  to  £7  with  board — actually  as  much 
as  was  paid  about  the  beginning  of  last  century  for  a  whole 
year's  work — is  by  no  means  an  unusual  wage  for  this  class  of 
workman.  Naturally,  this  great  advance  in  wages  has  had  an 
ameliorative  effect  upon  the  condition  of  the  agricultural  popula- 
tion generally.  It  may  safely  be  said  that  the  worker  of  to-day 
is  better  housed,  better  clothed,  and  better  fed,  and  that  at  the 
same  time  he  commands  opportunities  for  healthy  recreation  to 
which  his  fellow-worker  of  last  century  was  an  entire  stranger. 


CHAPTER  XV.— GLENCA1RN  DURING  THE  NINE- 
TEENTH CENTURY. 

In  attempting  a  short,  general  survey  of  the  social  and 
industrial  life  of  the  parish  during  last  century,  we  have  to 
depend  upon  stray  scraps  of  local  tradition,  statements  in  the 
parochial  records,  occasional  references  in  the  works  of  local 
writers,  and  the  meagre  details  that  are  to  be  found  in  the 
Statistical  Account  of  the  parish. 

That  the  life  of  the  people  during  the  earlier  portion  of  last 
century  was  simple  and  homely  goes  without  saying.  Luxury, 
as  we  now  understand  it,  was  almost  unknown.  The  dwellings 
of  the  common  people  were  built  of  stone  and  turf  covered  with 
thatch,  and  generally  consisted  of  a  single  compartment.  The 
windows  were  small.  Owing  no  doubt  to  the  window  tax, 
which  was  imposed  in  1695  and  remained  in  force  until  1851, 
they  were  not  infrequently  stuffed  with  straw  or"  fern  instead  of 
being  filled  with  glass.  Floors  were  usually  earthen,  only  the 
passages  being  paved.  Opposite  the  door  of  every  dwelling, 
and  rarely  more  than  a  few  feet  away,  stood  the  "  kitchen  - 
midden,"  a  mal-odorous  heap  of  animal  offal  and  general 
household  refuse.  The  mode  of  living  was  in  keeping  with  the 
houses.  The  principal  furnishings  consisted  of  a  box-bed  or 
two,  a  table,  some  stools,  and  a  few  wooden  cogs  and  bickers. 

DRESS. 

The  poor  dressed  very  meanly.  The  almost  universal 
dress  of  middle-class  gentlemen  was  "  hodden -grey,"  that  is, 
home-made  grey,  a  cloth  woven  out  of  a  mixture  of  black  and 
white  wool  in  its  natural  state.  It  was  no  unusual  thing  for  a 
laird  and  the  different  members  of  his  family  to  get  only  a  single 


142  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

outfit  in  the  year.  New  suits  for  the  men  and  new  gowns  for 
the  women  would  be  provided  about  the  "preaching  time,"  as 
the  annual  Communion  season  was  called,  and  these  had  to 
serve  as  "  keepin'  "  suits  or  dresses,  as  the  case  might  be,  until 
that  time  twelvemonth,  when  they  were  supplanted  in  their 
position  of  honour  and  henceforth  subjected  to  the  tear  and 
wear  of  ordinary  work-a-day  life.  For  head-gear  the  men  wore 
flat  cloth  bonnets,  often  of  home  manufacture,  and  the  women 
linen  "  toys  "  or  mutches.  We  are  told  that  towards  the  middle 
of  last  century  an  ambition  sprung  up  amongst  the  farmers' 
wives  and  others  of  humbler  station  in  life  to  possess  "  Leg- 
horns." Hats  or  bonnets  of  this  famous  straw  were  expensive, 
however,  and  the  ambition  was  often  difficult  of  attainment. 
Once  procured,  the  "  Leghorn  "  became  a  treasured  possession. 
It  was  altered  year  after  year,  and  after  each  occasion  on  which 
it  had  been  worn  the  loops  and  bows  of  ribbon  with  which  it 
was  adorned  were  carefully  arranged,  and  pieces  of  paper  in- 
serted to  keep  them,  if  possible,  in  all  their  pristine  freshness. 
This  practice  led  to  the  discomfiture  of  one  prideful  dame,  who, 
hurrying  to  get  ready  for  church  one  morning,  forgot  all  about 
the  paper  insets  in  her  bonnet,  and  it  was  only  when  the  titters 
of  an  amused  congregation  broke  upon  her  ears  that  she  realised 
the  figure  she  cut.  During  summer  the  children  and  not  a  few 
of  their  elders  went  bare-headed,  and  not  infrequently  bare- 
footed as  well,  to  kirk  and  to  market.  The  no-hat  cult  is 
therefore  no  new  thing.  Tailors  and  dressmakers  did  the  most 
of  their  work  in  the  homes  of  their  customers,  a  dressmaker's 
usual  wage  being  Is  per  day  with  food,  and  a  tailor's,  Is  6d. 

FOOD,  LIGHT,  AND  FUEL. 

Porridge  and  potatoes  were  the  staple  food  of  the  people. 
Home-brewed  ale,  commonly  called  "  tippenny  " — the  price  of 
the  ale  being  twopence  per  Scots  pint — was  the  favourite  drink. 


GLENCAIRN  DURING  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY.    143 

It  was  a  very  harmless  beverage  despite  the  eulogium  passed 
upon  it  by  Burns, 

"  Wi'  tippenny  we  fear  nae  evil." 

Light  was  supplied  partly  by  tallow  candles  of  home  manu- 
facture, stuck  in  what  was  called  "a  carle"  candlestick,  and 
partly  by  oil  burned  in  a  cruisie  made  of  iron  or  tin.  Both  the 
"  carle  ' '  candlestick  and  the  cruisie  have  now  passed  into  the 
category  of  museum  curiosities.  Down  to  the  close  of  the 
eighteenth  and  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century  peat  was 
the  universal  fuel.  No  great  difficulty  was  experienced  by  the 
farmers  and  cottagers  residing  in  the  more  hilly  portions  of  the 
parish  in  obtaining  supplies  of  this  useful  combustible.  The 
villagers  of  Moniaive,  however,  were  under  the  necessity  of 
resorting  to  the  Fell  and  Craigmuie  moors,  some  six  or  seven 
miles  away.  This  entailed  an  extra  outlay  of  Is  9d  to  2s  6d  per 
load  for  cartage.  The  usual  charge  for  cutting  peats  was  Is  9d 
for  four  cart  loads,  known  as  the  half  "dark."  (Darg,  dark — 
a  certain  quantity  of  work. — Vide  Jamieson). 

As  peat-cutting  continues  to  play  an  important,  although  a 
'decreasing,  part  in  the  social  economy  of  the  district,  a  short 
description  of  the  process  of  preparing  the  fuel  may  not 
be  out  of  place.  Two  methods  of  peat-cutting  are  practised, 
one  in  a  perpendicular,  the  other  in  a  horizontal  direction. 
In  Glencairn  the  perpendicular  method  is  favoured.  As 
the  peats  are  cut  they  are  thrown  into  a  barrow  to  be  conveyed 
to  the  place  where  they  are  to  be  spread  to  dry.  This  drying 
process  may  take  a  week  or  longer  according  to  the  weather. 
The  peats  are  afterwards  "  fitted,"  that  is,  set  up  in  cone-shaped 
stacks  of  four  or  more  peats  to  a  "fitting."  They  remain  in 
this  position  perhaps  two  weeks  or  more  until  firm  and  hard. 
They  are  then  "turn-fitted,"  which  is  simply  a  repetition  of  the 
process  of  fitting  on  an  extended  scale.  The  peats  are  now  in 
small  stacks  or  clumps,  and  no  further  attention  is  required, 


144  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

beyond  rebuilding  the  stacks  where  necessary,  until  the  fuel  is 
in  a  fit  condition  to  cart  home. 

To  the  lads  and  lasses  of  a  former  generation  the  work  of 
the  peat  field  would  seem  to  have  been  highly  attractive.  Nor 
is  this  to  be  marvelled  at  when  we  think  of  the  opportunities 
for  innocent  enjoyment  that  this  form  of  labour  afforded. 
With  the  mirth  and  daffin  by  the  way,  the  cheerful  banter 
during  the  mid-day  meal  of  sow'ens  or  sweet-milk  porridge,  the 
stolen  moments  of  relaxation  amid  fragrant  reaches  of  bog- 
myrtle  and  heath,  is  it  surprising  that  young  men  and  maidens 
should  have  found  there  more  than  an  antidote  for  the  laborious 
hours  of  rustic  toil  ? 

CUSTOMS  AND  BELIEFS. 

Comparatively  little  time  appears  to  have  been  found  for 
amusements.  Cards  and  draughts  were  almost  the  only  indoor 
games,  and  as  cards  were  banned  in  many  homes,  it  was  often 
draughts  or  nothing.  Neighbourly  visits  were  frequent,  how- 
ever, and  with  song,  riddle,  and  story,  supplemented  sometimes 
with  a  dance,  there  was  little  room  for  irksomeness.  Festival 
days  and  seasons,  such  as  Hallowe'en  and  Hogmanay,  afforded 
special  opportunities  of  enjoyment,  and  seem  to  have  been 
seized  upon  with  avidity  by  the  people.  Burns 's  description 
may  be  accepted  as  typical  of  such  gatherings : — 

"  On  Fasten-e'en  we  had  a  rockin', 
To  ca'  the  crack  and  weave  our  stockin' ; 
And  there  was  muckle  fun  and  jokin', 

Ye  need  na  doubt ; 
At  length  we  had  a  hearty  yokin' 
At  sang  about." 

— Epistle  to  John  Lapraik. 

Superstition  was  widespread.  Many  houses,  woods,  and 
bridges  in  the  parish  were  supposed  to  be  haunted,  and  very 


GLENCAIRN  DURING  THE  NINETEENTH  CENTURY.    145 

few  cared  to  pass  such  places  alone  after  nightfall.  A  belief 
in  witches,  fairies,  and  malevolent  spirits  of  various  kinds  was 
almost  universal.  Hence  the  use  of  charms  and  amulets.  A 
renowned  witch — "  Glencairn  Kate"  by  name — figures  in 
Robert  Kerr's  famous  witch  poem,  "Maggy  o'  the  Moss."1 
She  was  one  of  four  carlins  who  distinguished  themselves  on  the 
night  of  the  witches'  ride  through  the  air  on  broomsticks  to 
attend  the  devil's  levee.  Strange  customs  were  observed  at 
births,  marriages,  and  funerals :  thus,  no  birth  was  complete 
without  its  " blythe-meat  "  or  birth-feast;  no  marriage  without 
its  "riding  for  the  broose,"  a  race,  generally  on  horseback,  in 
which  the  victor  was  rewarded  with  a  bottle  of  whisky  ;2  and  no 
funeral  without  its  dole  of  bread  and  cheese  or  whisky. 

Side  by  side  with  much  that  seems  rude  in  the  life  of  our 
forefathers  there  is  not  a  little  that  calls  for  commendation. 
In  the  home,  for  example,  a  simple  and  earnest  piety  prevailed. 
Probity  was  rarely  absent  from  business  transactions,  and  it 
may  be  questioned  whether  even  a  more  kindly  feeling  did  not 
permeate  the  social  relationships.  Many  of  the  maxims  of  our 
forefathers  still  linger  in  the  district,  and  they  discover  to  us  a 
people  shrewd,  self-reliant,  and  withal  God-fearing.  We  close 
our  chapter  with  a  sheaf  of  proverbs,  very  few  of  which  have 
been  gleaned  either  for  Henderson's  or  for  Hislop's  well-known 
collection.  So  far  as  appears,  indeed,  some  of  them  are 
native  to  the  soil. 

PROVERBS,  ALPHABETICALLY  ARRANGED. 

A  famine  aye  begins  at  the  peat  stack. 

A  gaun  fit  aye  gets. 

A  man  ridin'  for  his  life  will  never  notice  it. 

1.  Nicholson's  Historical  and  Traditional  Tales,  1843. 

2.  Originally  the  prize  was  a  bowl  of  brose  or  spice  broth,  hence  the  name 

broose  or  brose. 


146  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

As  mim  as  a  May  paddock. 

A  thochtless  held  gies  the  feet  muckle  to  dae. 

Bend  the  willow  when  it's  green 
Between  the  age  of  three  and  thirteen. 

Bonnie  folk  and  ragged  folk  are  aye  bein'  catched  at. 

Doctors  and  ministers  are  ill1  craws  to  shoot  at. 
Folk  that'll  do  nocht  but  speer  should  never  be  tald  ony- 
thing. 

Hair  by  hair  makes  the  carle's  held  bare. 

I  may  rin  in  rags  but  I'll  no'  rin  in  debt. 
It's  no'  the  rummilin'  cairt  that  coups  first. 

Jist  cool  in  the  water  ye  het  in. 

Mony  han's  make  speedy  wark. 
Mair  strict  than  strecht. 

Oweragain's  no'  forbidden. 
Rinnin'  parents  make  lazy  weans. 

Sap  bodes  luck. 

Shoon  soles  never  make  good  uppers. 

The  deil's  bairns  hae  aye  their  daddy's  luck. 
The  last  meenit's  aye  the  hardest  ca't.2 
Them  that  burns  you  for  a  fule  wastes  their  firin'. 
There's  never  a  heich  but  there's  a  ho  we. 

There's  muckle  to  do  when  muirmen  ride, 
There's  buits  and  spurs  and  a'  to  provide. 

There's  nocht  like  the  auld  hounds  for  the  lang  hunt. 
There's  far  mae  marrit  than  keep  gude  hoos. 
They're  aye  welcome  that  bring. 

1.  Unlucky.     Another  form  has  "  kittle  craws."     2.  Driven. 


147 

Walth  gars  folk  waver. 
Writings  are  only  for  rogues. 

Ye'd  better  hae  a  sairy1  saut-fat2  than  a  giesen'd3  girnal.4 

Ye  may  hang  yer  meal -poke  to  the  door, 
But  Providence  winna  fill't  afore  mornin'. 

Ye're  like  the  ill  plack,  ye'll  come  back. 

1.  Sorry  or  poor.     2.  Saltbox.     3.  Shrunk  and  gaping  through  drynesa. 
4.  Meal  ark  or  chest. 


"CARLE"  CANDLESTICK,  19th  CENTURY. 


CHAPTER  XVI.— MONIAIVE. 

Moniaive,  the  principal  village  of  the  parish,  is  situated  on 
the  Dalwhat  and  Craigdarroch  tributaries  of  the  river  Cairn.  It 
is  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  sea-level,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  between  five  and  six  hundred.  The  valley  of  the 
Cairn  approaches  this  point  with  a  wide  and  graceful  sweep, 
and  here  the  village  nestles  pleasantly  in  the  lap  of  the  green 
hills  where  they  open  their  friendly  arms  to  welcome  the  traveller 
into  Galloway.  Nature  and  art  vie  with  each  other  in  the 
attractions  of  the  place.  Minnyhive — to  use  its  former  musical 
name — has  to  be  viewed  from  many  standpoints  if  its  varied 
aspects  of  beauty  are  to  meet  with  just  appreciation.  It  has, 
indeed,  been  sometimes  described  as  one  of  the  prettiest  villages 
in  Scotland.  Any  who  view  it  from  Dunreggan  Hill  on  the 
north,  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Blackstone  or  Ingleston  on 
the  south,  from  the  boulder-strewn  height  of  Bankhead  Craigs  on 
the  east,  or  from  the  Golf  course  on  the  west,  not  to  mention 
other  points,  will  find  ample  reason  for  endorsing  this  opinion. 

Various  suggestions  have  been  offered  as  to  the  origin  of 
the  name.  The  prefix  many  or  minnie  is  almost  certainly  either 
monadh,  "  a  moor,  a  hill,"  or  moine,  "  a  moss,"  but  the  suffix  is 
much  more  difficult.  The  Rev.  James  B.  Johnston,  B.D.,  author 
of  The  Place  Names  of  Scotland,  thinks  that  the  name  is  derived 
from  moine  ghabaidh,  which  signifies  "dangerous  moss;"  while 
James  A.  Robertson,  F.S.A.,Scot.,  in  his  Gaelic  Topography  of 
Scotland  favours  monadh-abh,  "  the  hill  of  the  water  or  stream." 
With  reference  to  the  former  of  these  derivations,  it  is  not  easy 
at  the  first  glance  to  find  much  resemblance  between  ghabaidh 
and  the  terminal  syllable  in  Moniaive.  But  this  difficulty  is 
greatly  minimised,  if  indeed  it  be  not  altogether  removed,  when 
it  is  explained  that,  by  well-known  laws  of  aspiration,  the  g  gets 


MONIAIVE.  149 

lost  altogether,  the  b  becomes  bh  or  v,  and  the  final  dh  is  mute. 
We  are  disposed,  however,  to  favour  Robertson's  etymology  for 
the  reason  that  it  goes  straight  to  what  must  be  regarded  as  the 
outstanding  physical  feature  of  the  locality,  namely,  its  attract- 
ive combination  of  hill  and  stream.  This  feature,  as  we  have 
already  seen,  inspired  the  muse  of  a  recent  poet,  and  we  venture 
to  think  it  would  be  no  less  likely  to  catch  the  imagination  of 
our  impressionable  Celtic  forefathers. 

At  what  period  Moniaive  came  into  existence  as  a  village 
we  have  no  means  of  knowing.  Possibly  a  settlement  was 
planted  here  in  very  early  times.  In  the  summer  of  1904  an 
anvil  stone,  much  marked  by  use,  was  dug  up  about  half-a-mile 
to  the  east  of  Moniaive,  and  as  recently  as  last  year  a  perforated 
stone  hammer  was  found  within  the  precincts  of  the  village 
itself.  The  presence  of  these  relics  goes  far  to  prove  that  here, 
long  before  the  Roman  invasion,  a  primitive  people  lived,  and 
fashioned  their  rude  implements  of  war. 

In  the  sixteenth  century — the  fourth  day  of  January,  1560, 
to  be  exact — we  find  "the  brig  of  Mony  yfe  in  Glencarne,"  re- 
ferred to  as  a  place  of  assignation.1  The  existence  of  a  bridge  in 
1560  is  interesting,  and  seems  to  warrant  the  conclusion  that 
even  at  this  early  period  Moniaive  was  a  place  of  some  import- 
ance. Our  earliest  authentic  information,  however,  in  regard 
to  Moniaive  as  a  village,  is  derived  from  a  Charter  granted  in 
the  reign  of  Charles  I.,  erecting  "The  town  and  lands  of 
Monyeve  into  a  free  burgh  of  barony,"  in  favour  of  William, 
Earl  of  Dumfries,  a  member  of  the  Crichton  family,  who  at  that 
time  possessed  considerable  lands  in  Glencairn.  By  the 
courtesy  of  the  officials,  Register  House,  Edinburgh — and 
especially  of  Dr  J.  Maitland  Thomson,  Curator,  Historical 
Department — we  are  able  to  append  a  copy  and  translation  of 
this  interesting  document: — 

1.  Burrow  Cort  Euik  (of  Drumfress). 


150  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

REGISTRUM    MAGNI    SIGILLI.      Lib.  55.      No.  215. 

CARTA  WILLIELMI  COMITIS  DE  DRUMFREIS  erectionis  ville  et 
terrarum  de  Monyeyve  in  liberum  burgum  baronie,  etc. 

CAROLUS  Dei  gratia  magne  Britannie  Francie  et  Hibernie  Rex 
fideique  defensor  OMNIBUS  probis  hominibus  totius  terre  sue 
clericis  et  laicis  salutem  SCIATIS  quia  villa  et  terre  de  Monyeve 
cum  pertinentiis  ad  predilectum  nostrum  consanguineum  et  con- 
siliarium  Willielmum  Comitem  de  Drumfreis  Vicecomitem  de 
Air  Dominum  Crichtoun  de  Sanquhair  hereditarie  et  pertinentes 
tanquam  propria  pars  et  pertinens  sue  baronie  de  Glencairnie 
jacentis  infra  vicecomitatum  nostrum  de  Drumfreis  per  ipsum 
de  nobis  immediate  tentis  ab  omnibus  nostris  burgis  regalibus 
et  burgis  baronie  per  spatium  duodecem  miliarum  ad  minimum 
ex  omni  parte  distant  IGITUR  proque  meliore  asiamento  legiorum 
qui  in  ea  parte  dicti  regni  nostri  habitant  aliorumque  com- 
meantium  et  frequentantium  ibidem  ac  pro  meliore  accommoda- 
tione  ipsorum  tarn  in  suis  itineribus  quam  aliis  eorum  legitimis 
negotiationibus  proque  meliore  incremento  politic  ac  pro  multi- 
plicibus  bonis  servitiis  nobis  nostroque  quondam  charissimo 
patri  dignissime  memorie  per  prefatum  predilectum  nostrum 
consanguineum  et  consiliarium  Willielmum  Comitem  de  Drum- 
freis turn  in  privatis  turn  in  publicis  nostris  negotiis  dicti  regni 
nostri  sibi  commissis  prestitis  et  impensis  Ac  pro  diversis  aliis 
bonis  causis  et  considerationibus  nos  moventibus  cum  avisamento 
et  consensu  predilecti  nostri  consanguinei  et  consiliarii  Joannis 
Comitis  de  Traquair  Domini  Lintoun  et  Caberstoun  supremi 
nostri  Thesaurarii  Computorum  nostrorum  rotulatoris  collectoris 
novarumque  nostrarum  augmentationum  Thesaurarii  dicti  regni 
nostri  Scotie  ac  reliquorum  Dominorum  nostri  Scaccarii 
dicti  regni  nostri  Scotie  nostrorum  Commissionariorum, 
fecimus  constituimus  ereximus  et  creavimus  tenoreque  presentis 
carte  nostre  facimus  constituimus  creamus  et  erigimus 
dictas  villam  et  terras  de  Monyeve  cum  integris  domibus  edificiis 


MONIAIVE.  151 

hortis  pomariis  lie  outsettis  partibus  pendiculis  et  pertinentiis 
earundem.  IN  UNUM  LIBERUM  BURGUM  baronie  prefato  predilecto 
nostro  consanguineo  et  consiliario  Willielmo  Comiti  de  Drumfreis 
heredibus  et  successoribus  suis  in  dicta  baronia  de  Glencairnie 
nunc  et  omni  tempore  affuturo  Burgum  Baronie  de  MONYEVE 
nuncupandum  cum  plenaria  potestate  libertate  et  licentia  prefato 
predilecto  nostro  consanguineo  et  consiliario  Willielmo  Comiti 
de  Drumfreis  heredibus  et  successoribus  suis  antedictis  ballivos 
burgenses  officiarios  serjandos  aliosque  officiarios  quoscunque 
requisites  infra  dictum  burgum  nostrum  pro  regimine  et  guber- 
natione  ejusdem  faciendi  eligendi  oonstituendi  et  creandi  ac 
dictos  ballivos  aliosque  officiarios  prout  ipsis  videbitur  expediens 
eligendi  mutandi  et  retinendi  Cum  plenaria  potestate  dictis  bur- 
gensibus  dicti  burgi  nostri  perpetuo  omni  tempore  futuro  faciendi 
utendi  et  exercendi  integra  privilegia  libertates  aliaque  que 
aliquis  alius  liber  burgus  baronie  infra  dictum  regnum  nostrum 
ad  libertatem  alicujus  liberi  burgi  baronie  spectantia  de  jure 
fecerint  seu  facere  poterint  ac  infra  dictum  burgum  erigendi 
habendi  et  tenendi  crucem  foralem  et  pretorium  et  forum  hep- 
domodarium  die  Martis  et  duas  annuas  liberas  nundinas  utranique 
earundem  pro  spatio  trium  dierum  duraturam  earundem  unam 
decimo  sexto  die  mensis  Junii.  incipientem  et  lie  Midsumar  fair 
nuncupandam  ac  alteram  earundem  ultimo  die  mensis  Septembris 
incipiendam  et  lie  Michaelmes  fair  nuncupandam  Ac  integras 
tollonias  custumas  et  casualitates  dicti  burgi  baronie  fororum 
hepdomodariorum  et  liberarum  nundinarum  ejusdem  petendi 
recipiendi  intromittendi  et  percipiendi  ac  ad  ipsorum  usus 
applicandi  cum  speciali  privilegio  et  libertate  prefato  predilecto 
nostro  consanguineo  et  consiliario  Willielmo  Comiti  de  Drum- 
freis suisque  antedictis  resignationes  omnium  terrarum  tenemen- 
torum  annuorum  reddituum  aliorumque  infra  dictum  burgum 
existentium  recipiendi  ac  eadem  quibuscunque  persone  vel  per- 
sonis  in  quorum  favores  resignate  fuerunt  dandi  et  disponendi 


152  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

cum  omnibus  infeofamentis  cartis  sasinis  aliisque  evidentiis 
necessariis  curias  burgales  infra  dictum  burgum  et  libertatem 
ejusdem  inchoandi  affigendi  affirmandi  tenendi  et  continuandi 
toties  quoties  opus  fuerit  clericos  serjandos  adjudicatores  aliaque 
membra  et  officiarios  dictarum  curiarum  necessarios  creandi 
locandi  imponendi  et  deponendi  ad  ipsorum  libetum  transgres- 
sores  secundum  leges  dicti  regni  nostri  puniendi  escaetis  lie 
unlavvis  et  amerciamenta  dictarum  curiarum  percipiendi  et 
recipiendi  ac  ad  ipsorum  usus  applicandi  ac  si  opus  fuerit  pro 
eisdem  namandi  et  distringendi  ac  generaliter  cum  potestate 
prefato  predilecto  nostro  consanguineo  et  consiliario  Willielmo 
Comiti  de  Drumfreis  suisque  antedictis  dictum  burgum  fora 
hepdomodaria  et  liberas  nundinas  ejusdem  ac  omnia  privilegia 
et  libertates  ad  burgum  baronie  spectantia  et  pertinentia  simili- 
ter  adeoque  libere  quam  aliqui  alii  burgi  baronie  fecerunt  aut 
facere  legitime  potuerunt  sen  poterint  aliquo  tempore  affuturo 
gandendi  fruendi  et  exercendi.  IN  cujus  REI  testimonium  huic 
presenti  carte  nostre  magnum  sigillum  nostrum  apponi  precepi- 
mus  TESTIBUS  ut  in  aliis  cartis  consimelis  date  precedentibus 
Apud  Edinburgum  quarto  die  mensis  Julii  anno  Domini  mil- 
lesimo  sex  centesimo  trigesimo  sexto  Et  anno  regni  nostri  duo 
decimo. 

TRANSLATION. 

REGISTER  OF  THE  GREAT  SEAL.     Vol.  55.     No.  215. 
Charter  of  William  Earl  of  Dumfries  for  the  erection  of 
the  town  and  lands  of  Monyeyve  into  a  free  burgh  of 
Barony. 

Charles  by  the  grace  of  God  King  of  Great  Britain 
France  and  Ireland  Defender  .of  the  Faith,  to  all  good  men 
of  his  whole  realm  cleric  and  laic  greeting.  Know  ye  that 
whereas  the  town  and  lands  of  Monyeve  with  their  pertinents 
and  heritably  belonging  to  our  well-beloved  cousin  and  coun- 
cillor William,  Earl  of  Dumfries,  Viscount  of  Ayr,  Lord 


MONIAIVE.  153 

Crichton  of  Sanquhar  as  a  proper  part  and  pertinent  of  his 
barony  of  Glencairnie  lying  within  our  sheriffdom  of  Dumfries 
and  held  by  him  immediately  of  us  are  distant  from  all  our 
royal  burghs  and  burghs  of  barony  round  about  for  the  space  of 
at  least  twelve  miles  we  therefore  for  the  greater  advantage 
of  the  lieges  who  dwell  in  that  part  of  our  kingdom  and  others 
having  intercourse  and  frequenting  there  as  also  for  the  better 
accommodation  of  these  persons  both  in  their  journeys  and  in 
their  other  lawful  business  and  the  increase  of  polity  and  for 
the  manifold  good  services  done,  rendered  and  paid  to  us  and 
our  late  dearest  father  of  most  worthy  memory  by  our  foresaid 
well-beloved  cousin  and  councillor  William  Earl  of  Dumfries 
as  well  in  our  private  affairs  as  in  the  public  business  of  our 
said  kingdom  entrusted  to  him,  and  for  divers  other  good  causes 
and  considerations  moving  us  thereto  have  with  advice  and 
consent  of  our  well-beloved  cousin  and  councillor  John,  Earl 
of  Traquair,  Lord  Lintoun  and  Caverstoun  Lord  High  Trea- 
surer, Collector  of  our  Accounts  and  Treasurer  of  our  new 
augmentations  of  our  said  kingdom  of  Scotland,  and  the 
remanent  Lords  of  our  Exchequer  of  our  said  kingdom  of  Scot- 
land our  Commissioners  made  constituted  erected  and 
created  as  by  the  tenor  of  this  our  present  charter  we  do 
make  constitute  erect  and  create  the  said  town  and  lands  of 
Monyeve  with  the  whole  houses  buildings  gardens  orchards 
outsets  parts  pendicles  and  pertinents  thereof  into  one  free 
burgh  of  barony  in  favour  of  our  foresaid  well-beloved  cousin 
and  councillor  William,  Earl  of  Dumfries,  and  his  heirs  and 
successors  in  the  said  barony  of  Glencairnie  now  and  in  all  time 
to  come  to  be  called  the  Burgh  Barony  of  Moneyeve,  with  full 
power  liberty  and  license  to  our  foresaid  well-beloved  cousin 
and  councillor  William  Earl  of  Dumfries  and  his  heirs  and 
successors  aforesaid  to  make  elect  appoint  and  create  bailies 
burgesses  officers  sergeants  and  whatsoever  other  officers  shall 


154  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

be  required  within  our  said  burgh  for  the  regulating  and  govern- 
ing thereof  and  as  may  seem  expedient  to  them  to  choose 
change  and  continue  the  said  bailies  and  other  officers  with 
full  power  to  the  said  burgesses  of  our  said  burgh  perpetually 
in  all  time  coming  to  practise  use  and  exercise  the  whole  privi- 
leges liberties  and  others  which  any  other  free  burgh  of  barony 
enjoys  or  can  enjoy  and  of  right  belonging  to  the  liberty  of  such 
free  burgh  of  barony  and  to  set  up  have  and  maintain  in  the 
said  burgh  a  market  cross  and  tolbooth  with  a  weekly  market 
on  Tuesday  and  two  annual  free  fairs  each  continuing  for  the 
space  of  three  days  the  one  beginning  on  the  sixteenth  day  of 
June  and  to  be  called  Midsummer  Fair  and  the  other  beginning 
on  the  last  day  of  September  and  to  be  called  Michaelmas  Fair 
and  to  ask  receive  intromit  with  and  uplift  the  whole  tolls 
customs  and  casualties  of  the  said  burgh  of  barony  weekly 
markets  and  free  fairs  thereof  and  to  apply  the  same  to  their 
own  uses,  with  special  privilege  and  liberty  to  our  foresaid 
well-beloved  cousin  and  councillor  William  Earl  of  Dumfries 
and  his  foresaids  to  receive  resignations  of  all  lands  tenements 
annual  rents  and  others  being  within  the  said  burgh  and  to 
grant  and  dispone  the  same  to  such  person  or  persons  in  whose 
favour  they  were  resigned  with  all  infeftments  charters  sasines 
and  other  evidents  necessary  and  to  inaugurate  affix  affirm 
hold  and  continue  burgh  courts  within  the  said  burgh  and 
liberty  thereof,  as  often  as  these  shall  be  required,  appointing 
setting  placing  and  displacing  the  clerks  Serjeants  judges 
and  other  necessary  officers  and  members  of  the  said  courts  at 
their  pleasure,  punishing  transgressors  according  to  the  laws  of 
our  said  kingdom,  uplifting  and  receiving  the  escheats  fines 
and  amerciaments  of  the  said  courts  and  applying  the  same  to 
their  own  purposes  and  if  need  be  poinding  and  distraining 
therefore,  and  generally  with  power  to  our  foresaid  well-beloved 
cousin  and  councillor  William,  Earl  of  Dumfries  and  his  fore- 


MONIAIVE.  156 

saids  to  use  and  enjoy  the  said  burgh,  weekly  markets  and  free 
fairs  thereof  and  to  exercise  all  the  privileges  and  freedoms 
belonging  and  proper  to  a  burgh  of  barony  in  the  same  way  and 
as  freely  as  any  other  burghs  of  barony  have  done  do  or  law- 
fully can  or  shall  do  at  any  time  hereafter — IN  WITNESS  WHEREOF 
to  this  our  present  charter  we  have  commanded  our  great 
seal  to  be  appended  (Witnesses  as  in  other  preceding  Charters 
of  the  like  date)  At  Edinburgh  the  fourth  day  of  July  in 
the  year  of  our  Lord  one  thousand  six  hundred  and  thirty-six 
and  of  our  reign  the  twelfth  year. 

The  erection  of  Moniaive  into  a  burgh  does  not  seem  to 
have  had  any  material  effect  upon  the  fortunes  of  the  village. 
Certain  it  is  that  the  "privileges  "  and  "  liberties  "  conferred  by 
the  charter  were  soon  allowed  to  fall  into  disuse.  A  reverse  in 
fortune  which  the  Crichton  family  sustained  about  this  time  may 
have  had  something  to  do  with  this  untoward  result,  but  as  no 
local  records  dealing  with  civil  affairs  are  available,  it  is  difficult 
to  obtain  reliable  information.  Happily,  the  Public  Records 
are  not  wholly  silent  concerning  the  affairs  of  the  little  burgh, 
and  the  following  reference,  gleaned  from  the  Register  of  the 
Privy  Council  of  Scotland,  will  no  doubt  be  read  with  interest  :— 

"  At  a  court  held  in  Edinr.  there  was  produced  a  presenta- 
tion under  quarter  seal  dated  Edinburgh,  25th  July,  1636, 
directed  to  Wm.  Fergusone  of  Craigdarroch,  Superior  of  Cald- 
side  and  Craignee,  for  infefting  Jas.  Crichtoun  in  said  lands 
(C  and  C)  as  falling  in  his  Majesty's  hands  by  the  forfeiture  of 
said  deceased  Andrew  Roresone  for  the  theft  foresaid  with 
Charter  of  infeftment  granted  at  Monyeive,  20th  Jany.,  1637,  by 
said  Wm.  Fergusone  to  said  Jas.  Crichtoun,  who  was  the  son  of 
the  Earl  of  Dumfries  and  bailie  of  the  Barony  of  Glencarne. 
He  had  entered  Caldside  and  spoiled  or  took  away  her  (Mrs 
Roresone's)  whole  goods  and  the  writs  and  evidents  of  the  said 


156  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

lands  and  placed  himself  in  possession,  compelling  the  tenants 
to  pay  the  duties  thereof  to  him  and  caused  Mrs  Roresone's  son 
to  be  apprehended  at  a  court  of  which  he  was  bailie  and  con- 
demned him  to  be  hanged  as  a  sheep -stealer,  but  his  sentence 
was  altered  to  banishment  to  the  wars.  The  case  was  tried  on 
3  Mch.,  1642,  against  Jas.  Crichtoun,  who  was  ordered  to 
remove  from  Caldside  and  Craignee  before  29  May,  1642."  In 
those  days  no  nice  scruples  were  shown  by  the  rich  and  power- 
ful, especially  in  their  dealings  with  inferiors,  and  it  is  gratifying 
to  find  that  on  this  occasion  the  arm  of  the  law  was  long  enough 
to  reach  the  spoiler  and  oppressor  of  the  widow,  even  although 
he  belonged  to  the  masterful  race  of  the  Crichtons. 

MONIAIVE  IN  1790. 

It  is  from  a  water-colour  sketch  of  "Moneyeve,"  dated 
1790,  now  in  the  possession  of  Mr  William  Macmath,  Edin- 
burgh, and  here  reproduced  by  the  kind  permission  of  the  owner, 
that  we  obtain  our  next  glimpse  of  Moniaive.  In  this  picture 
the  village  wears  an  extremely  homely  aspect.  The  houses 
are  low,  thatch-roofed  structures,  and  there  is  little  in  the 
appearance  of  the  principal  street  that  is  suggestive  of  growth 
or  even  of  vitality.  Mr  Macmath,  founding  on  the  date  and  on 
the  handwriting,  is  disposed  to  believe  that  the  picture  is  the 
work  of  Grose,  the  antiquary.  There  are  other  circumstances 
that  go  to  establish  the  truth  of  this  conjecture,  and  its  value 
as  a  faithful  representation  of  the  village  towards  the  close  of 
the  eighteenth  century  is  therefore  considerable.  The  Cross,  it 
will  be  observed,  rests  on  a  square  base.  Although  no  record 
of  a  change  from  a  square  to  a  circular  base  has  come  down  to 
us,  it  seems  probable  that  the  Cross  has  undergone  several 
structural  changes.  In  the  artless  narrative  given  by  the  young 
son  of  the  Rev.  John  Blackader  when  describing  his  own  and 
his  father's  escape  from  Turner's  dragoons,  he  tells  how  "  a 
party  of  sodjers  came  from  Galloway  to  Bardennoch  about  two 


3 


MONIAIVE.  157 

o'clock  in  the  morning,"  and  how  he  fled  with  all  the  little 
speed  he  had  to  the  Brigend  of  Minnihyvie,  where,  finding  all 
the  people  asleep,  he  "mounted  to  the  uppermost  step  of  the 
cross  of  the  toune,  and,  half-naked  as  he  was,  slept  there  till 
morning."  The  mention  of  "  the  uppermost  step  of  the  cross  " 
implies  the  existence  of  a  flight  of  steps,  and  as  steps  are  usual 
in  such  structures,  we  think  there  are  strong  presumptive  grounds 
for  believing  that  they  originally  formed  a  part  of  the  Cross  of 
Moniaive.  The  village  "  Jougs,"  (from  jugum,  a  yoke),  which 
were  long  attached  to  the  base  of  the  Cross,  were  removed 
during  structural  alterations  in  1812.  A  stone  dial,  which 
originally  surmounted  the  hexagonal  shaft,  has  unfortunately 
disappeared.  The  stone  ball  now  in  that  position  is  an 
addition  of  recent  date,  which  might  with  advantage  be 
removed.  The  last  thatched  roof  in  the  village  disappeared  in 
1899.  A  house  typical  of  the  period  of  the  Macmath  picture 
lingered  in  North  Street  until  about  the  same  date.  The  roof 
was  thatched  with  straw,  and  the  couples  and  rafters  were  made 
of  oak  branches  trimmed  with  the  axe.  The  walls  were  low  and 
the  windows  small,  while  the  floors  were  paved  with  cobble- 
stones. The  house  was  inspected  with  interest  by  members  of 
the  Dumfriesshire  and  Galloway  Natural  History  and  Anti- 
quarian Society  in  1890. 

The  changes  that  have  taken  place  in  the  spelling  of  the 
name  Moniaive  present  a  curious  study.  Two  forms,  as  we  have 
seen,  are  used  in  the  Charter — "  Monyeyve  "  in  the  title  and 
"  Monyeve  ' '  in  the  text — but  this  is  trifling  compared  with 
the  liberties  that  have  been  taken  with  the  name  elsewhere: — 
Mony  yfe  (Burrow  Cort  Buik  of  Drumfress,  1560) ;  Moniaive 
(Black  MS.,  1647-84,  Sibbald  Collection;  Town  and  County 
Almanack,  1799;  Minutes  Glencairn  Library,  1823);  Minijve 
(Rae  MS.,  circa  1710);  Miniaive  (Kirk-Session  Records,  1711); 
Moneaive  (Edinburgh  Almanack,  1763);  Minnihive  (Associate 
Congregation  Church  Token,  1779;  Pictures  of  Scottish  Scenes 


158  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

and  Character,  1830);  Minihive  (Church  Treasurer's  Book, 
1789);  Monihive  (Church  Treasurer's  Book,  1789);  Moneyeve 
(Water -Colour  Drawing,  1790) ;  Minniehive  (Kirk-Session 
Records,  1791);  Minyhive  (Kirk-Session  Records,  1792); 
Monniehive  (Singer's  Agricultural  Survey  of  Dumfriesshire, 
1812);  Moneyheive  (Legal  Document,  1823);  Minnyhyvie  (Life 
of  Blackader} ;  Monyaive  (Sketches  of  the  Covenanters} ;  Minni- 
aive  (M'Ker lie's  Lands  and  their  Owners} ;  Mininaive,  Money- 
hive,  Minnyive,  Minnieaive,  Minnyhive  (Kirk-Session  Records, 
various  dates).  An  impression  seems  to  prevail  that  the 
"  Moniaive  "  form  of  the  name  is  a  recent  coinage,  but  this 
is  not  the  case.  It  was  in  use,  as  we  have  seen,  between  1647 
and  1684,  and  it  continued  to  contend  for  supremacy,  especially 
with  the  forms  "  Monyhive  "  and  "Minnyhive,"  down  to  1856, 
when  it  was  adopted  by  the  Ordnance  Survey  on  the  authority 
of  his  Grace  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch  and  others.1  The  spelling 
"  Moniaive  ' '  has  likewise  been  adopted  by  the  Post  Office  and 
the  Railways,  and  it  may  therefore  be  regarded  as  firmly 
established. 

It  is  curious  that  none  of  the  early  street  names  have 
survived.  The  "Causey,"  the  "Throughgate,"  the  "Mill 
Raw,"  the  "Beggar  Raw,"  the  "Cow  Raw,"  have  all  dis- 
appeared, and  in  their  stead  we  have  such  commonplace 
designations  as  High  Street,  Chapel  Street,  Ayr  Street,  and 
North  Street.  Of  Dunreggan,  the  new  name  for  the  Cow  Raw, 
we  say  nothing,  for  it  is  an  old  village  name  and  deserves  to 
live.  In  addition  to  these  names  of  what  may  be  called  prin- 
cipal thoroughfares,  there  were  distinctive  names  for  a  few  side 
streets,  namely,  the  "Kettle  Entry,"  the  "Stenters,"  and  the 
"  Scleners."  Let  us  glance  a  little  more  particularly  at  each  of 
these  streets. 

1.   THE   CAUSEY  or   CAUSEWAY  (now  High  Street). — The 

1.  Letter  from  the  Director- General  of  the  Ordnance  Survey. 


MONIAIVE.  159 

name  takes  us  back  to  a  time  when  the  street  was  paved  with 
cobble-stones  throughout  its  entire  length.  A  small  portion  of 
the  original  pavement  remained  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Cross  down  to  1896,  when  the  stones  were  removed  to  help  in 
relaying  the  water-channels  of  the  village.  It  was  in  this  street 
that  the  village  fairs  in  the  months  of  June  and  Septem- 
ber were  held.  From  the  bridge  across  the  Dalwhat  stream 
westward  booths  and  stalls  were  erected,  and  in  these  a  miscel- 
laneous collection  of  wares  was  displayed  to  tempt  the  lieges. 
Latterly  the  fairs  were  held  in  a  field  to  the  east  of  the  Free 
Church — commonly  known  as  the  "  Lamb  Fair  Park  ' ' — and  we 
can  recall  the  keen  interest  with  which  old  as  well  as  young 
looked  forward  to  those  recurring  village  festivals.  Owing 
largely  to  the  auction  marts  of  modern  days  they  gradually 
dwindled,  and  finally  disappeared  about  thirty  years  ago. 

2.  THE  THROUGHGATE  (now  Chapel  Street). — At  one  time 
the  incline  near  the  northern  end  of  Chapel  Street  was  much 
greater  than  it  is  now,  and  as  vehicular  traffic  became  more 
common,  steps  were  taken  to  level  the  street.     In  carrying  out 
the  improvement  certain  of  the  houses  had  to  be  "  underfitted." 
Steps   had   likewise  to   be   put  down   opposite   the   doorways. 
These  changes  may  still  be  seen  in  the  Bakery  opposite  the 
Union  Bank  and  in  one  or  two  more  of  the  houses  in  the  same 
neighbourhood. 

3.  MILL  RAW  (now  Ayr  Street). — The  name  "Mill  Raw  " 
was  no  doubt  derived  from  Craigdarroch  Mill,  which  is  situated 
in  this  street.     "  Ratton  Raw  " — a  name  of  more  restricted  use 
—may  have  been  derived  from  the  same  source.     The  street 
seems  to  have  been  renamed  Ayr  Street  about  the  time  the 
new  line  of  turnpike  to  Ayr  was  opened. 

4.  BEGGAR  RAW  (now  North  Street). — The  new  name  ex- 
plains itself.     If  the  same  is  to  be  said  of  the  old  one,  the  street 
must  have  changed  greatly  for  the  better,  for  it  is  now  one  of 


160  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

the  cleanest  and  tidiest  in  the  village.  In  the  Ordnance  Survey 
Map  of  1856  the  street  appears  as  "  Cairnside  Row,"  but  if  this 
name  was  ever  formally  adopted  it  cannot  have  been  received 
with  approval,  for  it  is  now  unknown. 

5.  Cow  RAW  OR  COWGATE  (now  Dunreggan). — The  cows 
owned  by  the  villagers  were  no  doubt  pastured  on  the  common 
lands  belonging  to  the  village,  hence  the  name  "Cow  Raw." 
Although  Dunreggan  is  now  incorporated  with  Moniaive,  it  long 
ranked  as  a  separate  village,  and  it  is  described  as  such  in  all 
the  older  Gazetteers.     The  two  villages  were  not  only  distinct, 
they  were  even  bitter  rivals,  and  it  was  scarcely  safe  for  a  boy 
on  either  side  to  cross  the  bridge.     In  Moniaive,  contempt  of 
the  "  Dunregganites  "  found  expression  in  a  distich  that  was 
long  familiar  in  the  village : — 

"  Dunreggan  baggage,  they're  no'  worth  a  cabbage, 

They're  no'  worth  a  pint  o'  powder." 

That  the  contempt  was  reciprocated  goes  without  saying,  but  in 
what  terms  members  of  the  Dunreggan  clan  expressed  their 
feelings  tradition  fails  to  say. 

6.  THE  SCLENERS  OR  SCHLENDERS. — A  name  applied  to  the 
roadway  running  past  Broomfield  in  the    direction    of    James 
Renwick's  birthplace.     It  is  said  that  a  line  of  houses  once  stood 
here.     The  name  "  Scleners  "  means  "  shingle  on  the  face  of  a 
cliff,"  and  was  no  doubt  descriptive  of  the  place  at  the  time  it 
was  bestowed. 

7.  THE  KETTLE  ENTRY. — Name  given  to  a  short  row   of 
houses  with  gables  to  the  street,   which  stood  near  Hastings 
Hall.     The  origin  and  the  meaning  of  the  name  are  unknown. 

8.  THE  STENTERS. — An  old  street  name,  which  has  now 
been  supplanted  by  the  name  "Grains  Road."     The  houses 
stood  near  the  Waulk   Mill,  with  its   row  of  "  stenters  "   for 
stretching  the  cloth,  hence  the  name. 

At  one  time  both  a  Race  Course  and  a  Common  belonged 


MONIAIVE.  161 

to  Moniaive.  The  former  is  preserved  in  the  road  name,  "  The 
Course,"  which,  as  we  think,  must  have  ended  on  the  ground 
to  the  east  of  Dunreggan,  described  by  Wodrow  as  "  the  Race- 
muir."1  The  Common,  however,  we  grieve  to  say,  is  no  more 
than  a  memory.  When  or  how  the  inhabitants  lost  their 
Common  we  have  been  unable  to  discover,  but  we  fear  that 
appropriation  by  the  superiors  of  the  soil  has  been  too  long 
condoned  for  their  rights  to  be  called  in  question. 

BRIDGES  AND  ROADWAYS. 

To  a  village  like  Moniaive,  situated  as  it  is  between  two 
waters,  bridges  must  always  have  been  of  supreme  importance. 
We  have  seen  that  a  bridge  existed  as  early  as  1560,  and  in  the 
subsequent  history  of  the  village  references  to  its  bridges  are  of 
frequent  occurrence.  About  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
century  Mr  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch — who  owned  the  greater 
part  of  the  lands  in  the  neighbourhood — built  a  bridge 
over  the  Dalwhat  stream,  and  on  3rd  August,  1661,  he 
obtained  an  Act  of  Parliament  empowering  him  to  levy  pontage 
dues.  Fifty-five  years  later,  as  the  historian  Rae  tells  us, 
"  Alexander  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch  at  his  own  charge  caus'd 
put  on  a  Stone  Bridge  of  two  Arches  over  Dalwhat  Water,  at 
his  Burgh  of  Minijve ;  And  a  bridge  of  one  Arch  was  put  on  by 
the  Shire,  over  Craigdarroch  Water,  on  the  other  side  of 
Minijve,  both  upon  the  post  Road  from  Edinburgh,  by  New- 
Galloway  to  Wigton."2  The  bridge  of  two  arches  has  long  since 
disappeared,  and  in  its  place  we  have  a  plain  but  serviceable 
bridge  of  one  arch. 

The  changes  in  the  roadways,  like  the  changes  in  the 
bridges,  present  many  features  of  interest.  Down  to  near  the 
close  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  present  Ayr  road  did  not 
extend  much  beyond  the  mansion-house  of  Craigdarroch,  while 

1.  Sufferings^ ol.  IV.  p.  242. 
2.  Rae  MS. 


162  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

the  road  up  the  Dalwhat  glen,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  hill, 
ended  at  Caitloch.  Again,  the  Craigdarroch  road  ran  much 
higher  up  the  hillside  than  it  does  now,  while  the  Dalwhat  or 
Caitloch  road  kept  more  to  the  south  by  Broomfield  and  the 
Scleners.  The  old  Castlefairn  road,  after  crossing  the  Craig- 
darroch stream  near  Nethertack,  ran  in  the  direction  of  Kirk- 
cudbright farmhouse,  past  the  ash  trees  that  mark  the  site 
of  the  first  Secession  Church.  Keeping  along  the  side  of 
the  hill  for  some  distance,  Glencrosh  burn  was  crossed  close 
to  the  point  where  it  now  joins  Castlefairn  stream.  The  road- 
way afterwards  followed  the  higher  ground  to  the  right  until  the 
Scroggs  hill  was  reached.  One  arm  probably  trended  thence 
by  way  of  Kilnhouse  and  Auchencheyne,  while  another  ran  past 
Lochrennie  Mote  in  the  direction  of  Lochrennie  and  Holmhead. 
Roads,  or,  strictly  speaking,  tracks  communicating  with  Niths- 
dale  were  numerous.  Northward  there  was  the  track  by  way  of 
Bardennoch;  more  to  the  east  there'  was  one  in  the  direction 
of  Tynron;  a  third  traversed  the  Cloan  pass;  and  a  fourth 
crossed  the  ridge  above  Straith.  By  all  these  a  considerable 
packhorse  traffic  was  at  one  time  maintained,  but  as  the  use  of 
wheeled  vehicles  increased,  good  roads  became  a  necessity,  and 
the  hill  tracks  were  gradually  abandoned. 

Communication  with  the  outside  world  was  greatly  facili- 
tated when,  in  1833,  the  "  Craigengillan  Coach  "  began  to  ply 
between  Dumfries  and  Glasgow.  Moniaive  was  one  of  the 
stages  on  the  route,  and  the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  coach 
were  events  of  no  little  interest  and  importance  to  the  villagers. 
The  places  of  call,  according  to  Halliday's  Dumfries  and  South 
of  Scotland  Almanac  for  1835,  were  as  follows:  "Craigengillan 
Coach,  for  Glasgow,  leaves  here  (Dumfries)  every  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday  morning,  at  £  before  6,  by  Minnyhive, 
Carsfearn,  Dalmillington,  Ayr,  Kilmarnock.  Arrives  at  the 
Tontine,  Glasgow,  at  £  past  7.  Returns,  leaving  Glasgow  every 


MONIAIVE.  163 

Tuesday,    Thursday,    and    Saturday    morning    at    7    o'clock. 
Arrives  in  Dumfries  at  8,  night." 

The  stage-coach  proper  did  not  long  survive  the  coming 
of  the  railway ;  and  when  the  "  Craigengillan  ' '  ceased  to  run, 
Moniaive  was  in  a  worse  position  than  ever.  In  1865,  however, 
a  few  gentlemen  with  commendable  public  spirit  formed  what 
was  called  the  Moniaive  Omnibus  Company,  and  a  'bus  began 
to  ply  twice  daily  between  Moniaive  and  Thornhill  station  on 
the  Glasgow  and  South-Western  Railway  system.  Although 
several  changes  in  ownership  occurred,  this  convenient  service 
was  continued  down  to  1905,  when  it  was  abandoned  soon  after 
the  opening  of  the  Cairn  Valley  Railway.  A  bi-weekly  service 
to  Dumfries  by  way  of  Dunscore  was  discontinued  about  the 
same  time.  A  motor-bus  service  to  Thornhill  was  tried,  but 
as  it  proved  unprofitable  it  was  soon  given  up. 

NOTABLE  VISITORS. 

Notwithstanding  the  isolated  position  of  Moniaive,  visits 
from  persons  of  note,  even  in  pre-coaching  days,  were  by  no 
means  infrequent.  Lord  Cockburn  spent  part  of  an  autumn 
afternoon  here  in  1839,  and  his  impressions,  as  recorded  in  his 
Diary  under  date  30th  September,  form  interesting  reading: — 
"  Next  to  Kenmure  we  were  delighted  with  what  a  geologist 
would  call  the  basin  of  Minnyhive.  It  is  a  wretched,  half -dead 
village  which  should  either  be  regenerated  into  a  clean,  nice, 
thriving  country  town,  or  be  altogether  superseded  by  a  great 
mansion;  because  its  position  at  the  confluence  of  several  pas- 
toral valleys  is  extremely  beautiful,  and  the  district  is  distin- 
guished by  everything  pleasing  in  the  half -natural  and  half-  culti- 
vated scenery  of  the  Scottish  straths.  All  the  low  grounds  and 
much  of  the  hills  were  gleaming  with  bright  corn  and  grass;  a 
great  deal  of  wood  is  tossed  richly  everywhere,  the  surface  is 
full  of  knolls,  some  of  them  very  regular  and  plainly  shaped  by 
water ;  comfortable  embowered  houses  are  perched  on  heights ; 


164  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

the  river  sweeps  in  a  full  flow  of  liquid  crystal,  and  there  is  a 
prevailing  air  of  industry.  I  walked,  or  rather  lingered,  here 
for  about  an  hour,  and  never  was  more  charmed.  To  be  sure, 
I  saw  it  all  under  the  magic  of  the  sweetest  sunshine  that  ever 
blessed  the  close  of  a  calm  autumnal  day.  But,  with  its 
elements,  that  scene  can  never  be  but  beautiful.  We  lost  the 
glow  of  the  happy  valley  as  we  got  into  the  narrow  defile,  but 
the  wood  and  the  stream  joined  us  again  about  two  miles  from 
Penpont,  and  as  I  looked  back  from  the  bridge  over  the  Nith, 
close  by  Thornhill,  I  saw  a  day  incapable  of  being  made  better 
ended  by  a  magnificent,  gorgeous  sunset,  and  did  not  bid  the  last 
day  of  September  adieu  till  '  the  gradual  dusky  veil '  had  fallen 
over  all  nature." 

Another  legal  luminary,  namely,  Lord  Brougham,  once 
attended  a  public  dinner  at  Moniaive  in  the  company  of  his 
friend,  Mr  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch.  A  story  connected  with 
the  function  is  related  by  the  late  Rev.  Mr  Monteith.  "  After 
dinner  Brougham  took  out  a  cigar,  which  he  was  about  to  light 
when  one  of  the  company  objected  to  his  smoking  at  the  table. 
Brougham  persisted.  Thereupon  the  objector  seized  a  wine- 
glass and  shied  it  at  Brougham's  head.  Brougham  sent  a 

tumbler  back  at  Dr .      Then  followed  a  decanter  from  each 

combatant,  and  in  a  short  time  the  table  might  have  been  cleared 
of  every  available  missile  had  not  one  of  the  company,  a  tall 
and  powerful  man,  at  this  stage  of  the  conflict  risen  from  his 
seat,  went  up  to  Brougham,  lifted  him  as  if  he  had  been  a  child, 
carried  him  downstairs  out  of  the  house,  and  deposited  him 
safely  in  the  courtyard."  The  scene  of  the  story  was  no  doubt 
the  old  Craigdarroch  Inn,  a  place  round  which  many  memories 
of  bygone  village  life  still  linger.  Here,  for  instance,  in  1826, 
lodged  Mrs  Charlotte  Deans  in  the  course  of  her  wanderings  as 
a  strolling  player,  and  the  curious  may  still  read  her  impressions 
of  the  place  and  of  the  people — not  very  favourable,  it  must  be 


MONIAIVE.  165 

confessed — as  contained  in  a  volume  of  "  Memoirs  ' '  published 
at  Wigton  in  1837.  One  short  extract  must  suffice : — "  We  next 
rested  at  Minnyhive  .  .  .  abounding  in  fierce  Cameronians 
with  little  money  and  plenty  of  pride." 

Among  local  celebrities  who  are  known  to  have  visited 
Moniaive,  "  Watty  "  Dunlop,  the  famous  wit  and  divine,  may  be 
mentioned.  On  one  occasion,  when  spending  a  few  days  in  the 

village,  he  required  a  shave,  and  being  told  that  Robbie  M , 

a  village  weaver,  could  accommodate  him,  he  applied  to  that 
worthy.  Robbie  at  once  undertook  the  job,  but  he  had 
not  proceeded  far  when  he  noticed  that  his  customer  winced 
rather  frequently.  "Is  it  sair,  Maister  Dunlop?"  inquired 
Robbie  solicitously.  "Sair!"  exclaimed  the  witty  sufferer,  "it 
depends  upon  what  ye  ca't;  if  it's  flayin'  it's  no'  sair,  but  if  it's 
shavin'  it's  desprit  sair."  Mr  Dunlop,  we  need  scarcely  say, 
journeyed  to  Dumfries  on  the  next  occasion  when  he  required 
similar  attentions. 

Other  and  still  more  notable  names  are  linked  with  Moniaive 
and  its  neighbourhood.  Here,  in  the  stirring  days  of  persecu- 
tion, the  Rev.  John  Blackader,  "outed  "  minister  of  Troqueer, 
found  sanctuary,  first  at  Caitloch  and  afterwards  at  Ingleston 
and  Bardennoch.  At  Kirkland,  about  two  miles  away,  Thomas' 
Boston,  author  of  the  Fourfold  State,  and  one  of  the 
twelve  "Marrow-men,"  taught  school  and  formed  a  pro- 
fitable acquaintanceship  with  Janet  Maclannie,  "  an  old,  exer- 
cised, godly  woman."1  It  was  here  also  that  he  first  began  to 
record  passages  of  his  life,  using  for  the  purpose,  as  he  himself 
tells  us,  loose  scraps  of  paper.2  At  Dungalston,  Dhanjebhai 
Nauroji,  a  distinguished  Parsee  scholar  and  convert  to 
Christianity,  sojourned  with  the  Rev.  Patrick  Borrowman. 
James  Hogg,  the  Ettrick  shepherd,  and  his  friend  Professor 
Wilson,  were  frequent  visitors  at  Hastings  Hall  as  the  guests  of 

1.  Memoirs,  pp.  19-20. 
2.  Ibid. 


166  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Mr  and  Mrs  Robert  MTurk;  and  we  believe  that  Thomas 
Carlyle  was  entertained  on  more  than  one  occasion  at  the  same 
hospitable  board.  Coming  down  to  a  later  period,  it  was  at 
Hastings  Hall  that  Dr  Walter  C.  Smith  wrote  Borland  Hall,  a 
poem  in  which  the  hills  and  valleys  of  the  parish  are  invested 
with  the  halo  of  romance,  as  when  he  says : — 

"  The  bonnie  green  braes  of  Borland  glen ; 
Cornland  and  woodland  and  lily-white  lea, 
Up  to  the  skyline,  hill,  and  tree, 
All  will  be  yours  to  the  waterhead, 
Where  it  flows  from  the  bosom  of  big  Knockben, 
And  the  Kelpie's  pool  lies  dark  and  dead 
Under  the  great  rocks,  towering  red, 
And  only  the  ripple  of  water-hen 
Stirs  its  surface,  now  and  then, 
As  she  oars  her  way  from  the  outer  edge 
Through  the  bending  ring  of  spotted  sedge, 
And  the  ring  of  water-lilies,  within, 
That  fringes  with  beauty  the  dark  pool  of  sin." 

Within  still  more  recent  years  James  Paterson,  R.S.A., 
a  Scottish  painter  of  high  and  increasing  reputation,  has 
formed  associations  with  Moniaive  of  a  peculiarly  intimate 
character.  Coming  to  Moniaive  in  1879,  he  was  so  much 
attracted  by  the  beauty  of  the  district  that  he  returned  for 
several  years  in  succession,  and  afterwards  purchased  a  small 
property  on  the  outskirts  of  the  village,  where  he  resided  more 
or  less  constantly  until  1897,  when  he  removed  to  Edinburgh. 
Mr  Paterson  was  elected  an  associate  of  the  Royal  Scottish 
Academy  in  1897,  and  a  member  in  1910.  He  is  a  member  of 
the  Royal  Society  of  Painters  in  Water  Colour,  London,  of  the 
Royal  Scottish  Society  of  Painters  in  Water  Colour,  of  the 
Royal  British  Colonial  Society  of  Painters,  and  of  the  Pencil 


MONIAIVE.  167 

Society.  He  is  likewise  a  member  of  the  Royal  Academy, 
Brussels,  and  a  corresponding  member  of  the  Munich  Secession. 
Mr  Paterson's  gifts  are  of  a  versatile  order,  but  it  is  as  a  painter 
of  landscapes  that  he  is  best  known.  Among  pictures,  the  in- 
spiration for  which  was  drawn  from  Glencairn,  we  may  mention : 
— Hawk  Fell  (Castlefairn),  the  property  of  the  Prince  Regent 
of  Bavaria;  Spring's  Delay  (Dalwhat  Valley),  Stuttgart  Public 
Gallery;  The  Nymph  (Dalwhat),  Weimar  Public  Gallery; 
Borderland  (Glencairn),  Glasgow  Municipal  Collection.  Mr 
Paterson  is  represented  also  in  the  Public  Galleries  of  Munich, 
Leipsic,  Buda  Pesth,  Venice,  Brussels,  Rome,  Adelaide, 
Buffalo  and  St.  Louis,  U.S.A.,  and  Oldham. 

WORTHIES. 

Moniaive,  like  most  small  isolated  communities,  had  its 
"  worthies, ' '  whose  sayings  and  doings  must  often  have  helped 
to  relieve  the  former  tedium  of  village  life.  Within  the  limited 
space  at  our  disposal  we  can  do  little  more  than  mention  a  few 
of  the  better  known: — "  Princey  Fergusson  "  (James  Fergusson), 
wit  and  poetaster  (see  Bibliography),  who,  when  taken  to  task 
by  his  voluble  and  loud-voiced,  but  often-ailing  aunt,  for  not 
making  more  frequent  inquiries  as  to  the  state  of  her  health, 
replied,  "  Nae  need  to  dae  that,  aunt,  nae  need  to  dae  that,  I 
can  hear  ye're  weel  lang  afore  I  come  roon  Sandy  Murray's 
corner."  "  To-hay  "  (James  Reid),  weaver,  with  his  splay  leg 
and  strange  oath,  "  It's  my  leg  it  is't,  to  hay  wi'  ye!"  "  Gibby 
Smith"  (Gilbert  Smith)  and  "Andra  Coats"  (Andrew  Arm- 
strong), the  heroes  of  many  a  village  parade  with  fife  and  drum. 
Gibby  Smith  aforesaid  was  a  tailor  to  trade,  and  supplied  most 
of  the  villagers  with  the  round  flat-crowned  bonnets  that  were 
then  commonly  worn  by  the  men  folk.  Now  all  Gibby's  bonnets 
were  fashioned  with  the  aid  of  a  broth  plate  and  stuffed  with 
"fog,"  and  whenever  Gibby  saw  a  villager  carrying  his  head  a 
trifle  too  high  he  was  wont  to  observe,  "  Hee-hee-hee !  there  he 


168  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

gangs  vvi'  his  held  stuffed  wi*  fog !"  Certes,  it  cannot  have  been 
easy  to  act  the  hero  in  the  eyes  of  one  who  furnished  headpieces 
stuffed  with  fog !  We  may  also  recall  "  Cumarat, ' '  the  "  pig- 
man  "  (crockery  vendor),  "  Pistlefit  "  (James  Cleland),  "The 
Shirra"  (Samuel  Cleland),  "  Cornal  Reid"  (James  Reid), 
"Ruglan"  (John  Chalmers),  "  Clocky  "  (John  Millar,  watch- 
maker), "  Caddy  "  (William  M'Adam),  and  the  names  of  many 
others  who  are  being  rapidly  forgotten  as  those  who  knew  them 
in  the  flesh  pass  one  by  one  across  the  silent  bourne. 


THK  Jouos  FROM  MOKIAITE  CROSS. 


CHAPTER  XVII.— THE  PRESENT  TIME. 

The  aspect  of  Glencairn  to-day  is  very  different  from  what 
it  was  one  hundred,  or  even  fifty,  years  ago.  Cultivated  lands 
•have  been  improved,  roads  extended,  and  a  better  class  of 
cottages  provided.  Many  new  and  handsome  mansions  have  also 
been  erected,  and  there  are  few  of  the  older  dwellings,  other 
than  cottages,  that  have  not  been  remodelled  and  generally 
brought  abreast  of  present-day  requirements.  At  no  time  has 
Glencairn  been  a  laggard  in  the  path  of  social  progress.  Gas 
was  introduced  into  Moniaive  in  1861,  but  a  new  era  of  lighting 
is  upon  us,  and  the  parish  is  already  in  possession  of  two  success- 
ful installations  of  electric  lighting,  one  at  Glenluiart,  another  at 
Tererran,  while  workmen  are  at  present  engaged  upon  a  third  at 
Auchencheyne.  Draw-wells  with  their  liability  to  pollution  were 
supplanted  by  a  gravitation  water  supply  in  1879.  New  water 
channelling  throughout  the  whole  of  the  village  was  provided  in 
1896.  The  last  thatch  roof,  as  has  already  been  mentioned, 
disappeared  in  1899.  Coincident  with  these  reforms  the  public 
health  of  the  parish  has  shown  a  marked  improvement. 

Notwithstanding  the  many  changes  for  the  better,  the  last 
sixty-nine  years  have  witnessed  a  serious  diminution  in  the  popu- 
lation of  the  parish,  as  the  following  table  will  show : — 

1755  -       1,794 

1794      -  1,600 

1801      -  1,403 

1811      -  -      1,666 

1821      -  -      1,881 

1831      -  -      2,068 

1841      -  -      2,094 

1851      -  1,980 

1861  .      1,867 

1871  1,749 

1881      -  .      1,737 

1891      -  .          .      1,647 

1901      -  ,  1,490 


170  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  since  1841  there  has  been  a  steady 
decrease,  and  that  only  once  before,  namely,  in  1801,  has  the 
population  been  as  low  as  it  is  at  the  present  time.  No  doubt 
the  decrease  has  been  partly  due  to  causes  that  are  operative  in 
all  rural  communities,  such  as  the  increase  of  the  acreage  under 
pasture,  and  the  substitution  of  machinery  for  hand  labour  in 
the  operations  of  husbandry,  but  we  believe  it  will  be  found  that 
the  principal  cause  is  a  baneful  land  system  which  works  for  the 
severance  of  the  people  from  the  soil.  Under  existing  condi- 
tions very  few  of  the  working-class  population  of  our  country 
districts  can  ever  hope  to  possess  even  a  small  farm;  and  it  is 
only  natural  that  the  more  enterprising,  seeing  no  hope  of 
bettering  their  position,  should  migrate  to  the  towns,  or  perhaps 
leave  the  home  land  altogether.  Such  a  state  of  matters  calls 
loudly  for  reform.  The  poet  Goldsmith's  words  are  as  true 
to-day  as  ever  they  were : — 

"  111  fares  the  land,  to  hastening  ills  a  prey, 

Where  wealth  accumulates,  and  men  decay."1 
Happily  the  subject  is  engaging  the  attention  of  our  legislators 
of  both  parties,  and  signs  are  not  wanting  that  remedial  measures 
will  soon  be  placed  upon  the  Statute  Book. 

The  assessable  rental  of  the  parish  for  1909-10  is  as 
follows:— Owners,  £12,254  15s  7d;  Occupiers,  £6,655  11s  7d. 
Poor  Rate — Owners,  3d  per  £1 ;  Occupiers,  2d.  Education 
Rate — Owners,  3fd;  Occupiers,  3|d.  Registration  Rate — 
Owners,  |d;  Occupiers,  £d. 

The  number  of  poor  on  the  roll  is  17.  This  is  in  marked 
contrast  to  1872,  when  no  fewer  than  eighty-three  persons  were  in 
regular  receipt  of  parochial  relief.2 

The  Parish  Council,  called  into  existence  by  the  Local 
Government  (Scotland)  Act  of  1894,  consists  of  the  following 
members : — 

1.  The  Deserted  Village. 

2.  Monteith's  The  Parish  of  Olencairn,  p.  58, 


THE  PRESENT  TIME.  171 

William  Barber  of  Tererran  (Chairman). 

Captain  George  Laurie  Walker  of  Crawfordton. 

Mrs  Ellen  M.  Monteith  of  Glenluiart. 

Major  M'Call  of  Bardennoch,  (now  of  Caitloch). 

Robert  Macmillan  of  Woodlea. 

Cecil  E.  Laurie,  Jarbruck. 

William  Hastings,  Moniaive. 

William  Fergusson,  Moniaive. 

James  Henderson,  Slatehouse. 

The  office  of  Clerk  to  the  Council  is  filled  by  Mr  David  Corson, 
solicitor,  Union  Bank  of  Scotland,  Limited,  Moniaive. 

SOCIETIES  AND  CLUBS. 

Among  educative  institutions  the  Library  and  Reading  Room 
first  claims  our  notice.  It  is  the  product  of  a  union,  effected  in 
1894,  between  the  Glencairn  Subscription  Library,  founded  in 
1812,  and  the  Library  of  the  Moniaive  Mutual  Improvement 
Society,  instituted  in  1858.  In  1894  both  of  these  once  flourish- 
ing institutions  had  passed  into  a  moribund  condition,  and  amal- 
gamation was  resolved  upon  as  the  most  promising  way  of  pro- 
longing their  usefulness.  The  combined  Libraries  are  now 
accommodated  in  the  Glencairn  Library  and  Reading  Room, 
Chapel  Street,  Moniaive.  The  terms  of  subscription  are: — 
One  year,  2s  6d;  six  months,  2s;  three  months,  Is;  one  month, 
6d.  The  books  number  close  upon  two  thousand,  and  additions 
are  constantly  being  made  both  by  donation  and  by  purchase. 
During  recent  years  courses  of  lectures  have  been  arranged  in 
connection  with  the  Library,  and  these  have  been  attended  with 
a  growing  and  very  gratifying  measure  of  success. 

A  Glencairn  Ploughing  Society  has  existed  since  1869. 
The  Society  was  instituted,  for  the  encouragement  of  ploughing, 
at  a  meeting  held  in  Dumfries  on  the  27th  day  of  January,  when 
John  M'Millan  of  Glencrosh  was  appointed  President  and  Robert 
W.  Sloane  Secretary.  To-day  the  same  offices  are  filled  by 


172  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

William  Barber  of  Tererran  and  James  F.  Browne,  Shancastle, 
respectively.  The  name  of  the  Society  was  changed  in  1890  to 
"The  Glencairn  and  Tynron  Ploughing  Society." 

A  Horticultural  Society  was  established  in  1879,  and  the 
exhibitions  of  the  Society,  which  are  held  annually,  have  already 
done  much  to  foster  a  love  of  flowers  in  the  district.  The  Rev. 
T.  Kidd,  M.A.,  is  Hon.  President  of  the  Society,  while  Mr  D. 
Corson  is  President,  and  Mr  T.  Neilson  Secretary. 

A  Moniaive  Lodge  of  the  Nottingham  Order  of  Oddfellows 
was  instituted  under  the  name  "Thistle  of  Scotland"  Lodge, 
No.  101,  in  November,  1842.  The  ordinary  membership  is 
85,  and  there  is  a  flourishing  Benefit  Society  connected  with  the 
Lodge.  Mr  John  Wilson  is  Secretary.  It  is  interesting  to 
recall  that  a  Freemason  Lodge  was  erected  in  Moniaive  7th 
February,  1768.  The  full  designation  of  the  Lodge  was 
"Nithsdale  St.  Paul,  No.  139,  Moniaive."  Sir  Robert  Laurie 
of  Maxwelton  was  the  first  Master,  and  he  was  succeeded  by 
Alexander  Fergusson  of  Craigdarroch ;  Thomas  Collow  of 
Auchenchain;  and  other  men  of  influence  in  the  parish.  Mr 
James  Smith,  the  historian  of  Freemasonry  in  Dumfriesshire, 
says  that  the  Lodge  existed  for  "  about  a  quarter  of  a  century."1 
It  is  on  record,  however,  that  Lodge  "  Nithsdale  St.  Paul  "  was 
represented  at  the  ceremony  of  laying  the  foundation-stone  of 
the  Burns  Mausoleum  in  Dumfries  on  5th  June,  1815,  and  the 
Lodge  seems  to  have  remained  on  the  roll  of  the  Order  down  to 
August,  1823. 2  What  was  the  immediate  cause  of  its  decease 
is  not  stated.  It  is,  however,  gratifying  to  know  that  the 
"Thistle  of  Scotland  "  Lodge  of  Oddfellows  was  so  soon  able 
to  occupy  the  field,  and  that  its  occupancy  has  been  attended 
with  such  marked  success. 

The  inhabitants  are  well  provided  with  the  means  of  amuse- 
ment. Three  Curling  Clubs  exist  in  the  parish,  namely,  the 

1.  History  of  Lodge  St.  MicJuiel's,  Kilwinning. 

2.  Ibid, 


THE  PRESENT  TIME.  173 

"  Glencairn  Curling  Club,"  the  "Cairn  Curling  Club,"  and 
the  "Glencairn  XX.  (Twenty)  Curling  Club."  In  addition  to 
a  number  of  lochs  adapted  to  curling,  there  is  an  artificial  pond 
in  the  parish  capable  of  accommodating  two  rinks.  A  Bowling 
Green  was  opened  in  1870,  and  the  Club  has  already  produced 
some  excellent  players.  Carpet  Bowling  is  now  a  popular 
pastime,  and  matches  between  the  different  clubs  are  frequent 
during  the  winter  months.  The  games  of  Football  and  Quoits 
have  each  their  devotees,  and  a  Public  Park,  which  was  gene- 
rously gifted  to  the  inhabitants  of  Moniaive  by  Sir  George 
Gustavus  Walker  in  1894,  is  admirably  adapted  to  both  forms 
of  sport.  For  indoor  amusements  there  is  a  Recreation  Hall  in 
the  village.  The  latest  additions  to  the  recreative  institutions 
of  the  parish  are  a  Golf  Club  and  a  Cricket  Club.  The  Golf 
course  is  of  nine  holes,  and  has  been  skilfully  laid  out  on 
lands  adjacent  to  the  village.  Since  the  course  was  opened  in 
1905  a  pavilion  has  been  added,  and  a  number  of  improvements 
effected  on  the  putting-greens. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  the  parish  possesses  a  Temper- 
ance Society,  two  Bands  of  Hope,  a  Parish  Nursing  Association, 
and  a  Choral  Society.  Apart  from  the  Churches,  the  only  public 
buildings  that  call  for  notice  are  an  office  of  the  Union  Bank  of 
Scotland,  Ltd.,  a  Public  Hall,  a  Clock  Tower,  and  the  excellent 
Schools. 

POSTAL  DEVELOPMENTS. 

No  institution  can  show  such  a  record  of  steady  progress  as 
the  Post  Office.  The  earliest  postmaster  of  Moniaive  of  whom 
we  have  been  able  to  find  any  notice  is  Robert  Davidson,  one  of 
the  founders  of  "Nithsdale  St.  Paul  "  Lodge  of  Freemasons,  who 
held  office  in  1768.  It  appears,  however,  that  there  was  a  post 
to  Moniaive  in  1705,  for  in  the  Glencairn  Kirk-Session  Records 
of  that  year  we  find  one  Jane  Hiddlestone,  who  had  been  charged 
with  drinking  to  excess  in  George  Ritchie's  house,  pleading  in 


174  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

extenuation  that  her  errand  there  was  "to  wait  for  the  post." 
William  Smith  was  postmaster  in  1804.  Mails  were  despatched 
on  Mondays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  at  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  the  postage  to  or  from  Edinburgh  being  eightpence.1 
According  to  the  Edinburgh  Almanack,  or  Universal  Scots  and 
Imperial  Register,  the  number  of  post  towns  in  Dumfriesshire  in 
1825  was  nine,  and  Moniaive  was  one  of  the  number.  In  1836 
Moniaive  was  served  by  a  foot  post  from  Thornhitt.  The  letters 
for  delivery  arrived  daily  at  3  p.m.,  and  a  return  despatch  was 
made  at  4  p.m.2  Mrs  Austin,  nee  Jean  Kirkpatrick,  is  said  to 
have  been  the  first  Moniaive  letter-carrier.  Her  appointment 
was  non-official,  and  can  scarcely  have  been  a  lucrative  one,  for 
all  the  remuneration  she  received  consisted  of  occasional  small 
gratuities,  chiefly  in  kind,  from  her  scattered  clientele.  To-day 
four  postmen,  all  holding  full  establishment  appointments,  are 
required  for  the  landward  deliveries,  and  the  services  of  a  fifth 
for  the  village  alone. 

For  a  country  office  the  number  of  missives  dealt  with  is 
considerable.  During  an  average  week  the  letters,  post-cards, 
newspapers,  book  packets,  and  parcels  delivered  from  the 
Moniaive  office  reach  a  total  of  between  three  and  four  thousand. 
At  Christmas  and  the  New  Year  the  number  is,  of  course,  much 
larger.  The  following  tabular  statement  of  other  units,  extracted 
from  the  returns  for  year  ended  31st  December,  1907,  may  not 
be  devoid  of  interest : — 

Number  of  parcels  posted  at  Moniaive,  3,410. 
Number  of  Postal  Order  Transactions,  5,796. 
Number  of  Telegraph  Messages,  forwarded  and  received,  5,131. 
Value  of  Stamps  sold,  £614. 

The  returns  for  1910  are  not  yet  available,  but  there  is  good 
reason  to  believe  that  they  will  show  a  distinct  increase.  A 
considerable  amount  of  business  is  likewise  done  in  the  Money 

1.  Universal  Scots  Almanack,  1804. 

2.  Pigot  dk  Co.'s  Directory,  1836. 


THE  PRESENT  TIME.  175 

Order,  Savings  Bank,  and  Inland  Revenue  Licence  branches. 
In  January,  1909,  the  payment  of  Old  Age  Pensions  was  added 
to  the  official  duties,  and  the  transactions  for  the  year  show  an 
average  of  thirty -four  payments  weekly. 

CAIRN  VALLEY  RAILWAY. 

The  first  day  of  March,  1905,  will  long  be  famous  in  the 
annals  of  the  parish,  for  it  was  on  that  day  the  inhabitants  first 
enjoyed  the  privileges  of  railway  connection.  As  far  back  as 
1865  a  line  of  railway  to  Moniaive  by  way  of  Thornhill  and 
Penpont  was  promoted,  but  in  1872  the  proposal  was  abandoned 
in  favour  of  a  line  by  way  of  Auldgirth.  Notwithstanding  power- 
ful support  this  scheme  was  likewise  abandoned,  and  the  project 
of  railway  connection  remained  in  abeyance  until  1897,  when 
an  Act  was  passed  empowering  the  Glasgow  and  South- 
western Railway  Company  to  construct  an  ordinary  line  of 
railway  to  connect  with  their  main  system  near  Dumfries.  Subse- 
quently it  was  decided  to  take  advantage  of  the  Light  Railways 
Act,  and  powers  for  this  purpose  were  granted  in  1899.  The 
contract  for  the  making  of  the  line  was  let  in  1901,  and  the  new 
line,  under  the  name  of  the  Cairn  Valley  Light  Railway,  was 
opened  for  traffic  on  1st  March,  1905,  the  day  being  observed  as 

£ 

a  holiday  throughout  the  parish  in  honour  of  the  occasion.  The 
line  traverses  a  district  of  great  natural  beauty.  Near  Stepford 
and  Newtonairds,  in  Holywood  parish,  and  Maxwelton,  in  Glen- 
cairn,  the  scenery  is  particularly  fine.  Maxwelton  House  itself 
is  set  in  a  picture  of  beauty.  One  delighted  traveller  has  been 
heard  to  declare  that  it  is  well  worth  while  travelling  up  the 
Cairn  Valley  Line  were  it  only  to  see  the  home  of  "  bonnie  Annie 
Laurie,"  and  the  dew-clad  "braes  "  which  her  poet-lover  has 
immortalised  in  song. 

At  the  present  time  there  is  a  regular  service  of  passenger 
trains  thrice  daily  each  way,  with  additional  trains  on  Wednes- 
days and  Saturdays.  The  amount  of  patronage  that  the  line 


176  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

has  already  received  augurs  well  for  its  success.  Between 
October,  1906,  and  September,  1907,  the  number  of  passengers 
booked  from  Moniaive  was  11,502.  The  tonnage  (goods  and 
mineral)  for  the  same  period  was  5,813,  and  the  number  of 
waggons  (cattle,  she?,p,  etc.),  395. 

THE  OUTLOOK. 

What  effect  the  railway  will  have  upon  the  fortunes  of  the 
village  and  the  parish  as  a  whole  remains  to  be  seen.  Many,  we 
know,  anticipate  the  time  when  Moniaive  will  become  a  favourite 
health  resort,  and  we  see  no  reason  why  the  anticipation  should 
not  be  realised.  During  recent  years  dwellers  in  our  towns  and 
cities  have  been  turning  their  thoughts  more  and  more  towards 
homes  and  holiday  abodes  in  the  country.  To  all  such,  Moniaive 
offers  many  attractions.  It  possesses  pure  air,  beautiful  scenery, 
and  peaceful  surroundings  in  abundance.  As  regards  accom- 
modation, the  cottages,  although  small,  are  scrupulously  clean, 
and  we  can  testify  from  intimate  personal  knowledge  that  they 
are  often  more  comfortable  in  their  interior  arrangements  than 
external  appearances  might  lead  one  to  suppose.  Moreover, 
even  the  smallest  cottage  has  its  garden,  and  the  taste  and  skill 
with  which  these  garden  plots  are  cultivated  merits  the  highest 
praise.  We  believe,  however,  that  an  era  of  house-improvement 
is  imminent,  and  that  many  of  the  old  "  but-and-ben  ' '  dwellings 
will  soon  be  replaced  by  neat  and  comfortable  modern  cottages. 
In  Dunreggan  a  beginning  has  already  been  made  in  the  direction 
indicated,  and  it  is  gratifying  to  know  ihat  all  the  new  cottages 
have  found  tenants.  Who  knows  but  in  the  near  future  a  new 
Dunreggan  will  be  seen  to  arise,  Phoenix-like,  from  the  ashes  of 
the  old  ? 

While,  as  we  have  seen,  there  is  not  a  little  progress  to 
record,  an  enlightened  policy  seems  to  point  much  further  in  this 
direction.  Perhaps  the  most  clamant  need  of  the  village  is  an 
efficient  drainage  system.  The  expense  would  certainly  be 


THE  PRESENT  TIME.  177 

heavy,  but  there  cannot  be  much  room  for  doubt  that  the 
benefits  would  more  than  compensate  for  the  outlay.  If,  indeed, 
Moniaive  is  ever  to  develop  into  a  health  resort,  such  an  im- 
provement is  a  clear  necessity.  A  proposal  to  erect  a  new 
Public  Hall  has  been  long  under  consideration,  but  the  scheme 
is  still  in  abeyance,  although  the  need  for  a  larger  and  more 
comfortable  hall  is  admitted  by  every  one.  Among  minor  im- 
provements might  be  mentioned  the  provision  of  seats  at  suitable 
places,  such  as  Renwick's  Monument,  Dunreggan  Brae,  Crichan 
Loaning,  the  public  road  between  Lower  Ingleston  and  Jar- 
bruck,  and  at  various  points  in  the  glens.  Again,  the  numbering 
of  the  houses  is  a  simple  and  convenient  device  which  has  been 
too  long  delayed.  A  short  time  ago  a  letter  arrived  at  the  Post 
Office  addressed  to  "The  Lady  of  the  House,  Dunreggan,"  but 
it  had  to  be  returned  bearing  the  endorsement  "  Insufficiently 
addressed."  A  very  small  outlay  would  obviate  an  inconveni- 
ence of  this  kind. 

These  are  useful  lines  of  development,  but  we  trust  that  the 
future  holds  in  store  advances  of  still  greater  moment.  Having 
traced  the  history  of  the  parish,  we  now  ask,  What  will  that  future 
be?  It  is  the  people,  not  the  soil,  that  must  give  the  answer. 
Inspired  by  a  noble  tradition  without  proudly  and  complacently 
resting  in  it,  Glencairn  has  many  great  possibilities  in  store.  A 
parish  fragrant  with  such  names  as  James  Renwick,  John 
Blackader,  and  Robert  Gordon  cannot,  surely,  fail  to  awaken 
worthy  ambitions  in  the  breast  of  her  modern  sons  and  daughters. 
We  must  hope  that  none  will  ever  despise  honest  manual  toil,  yet 
at  the  same  time  that  more  will  find  their  way  to  the  University 
with  a  view  to  entering  the  Christian  ministry  and  other  fields  of 
promising  service. 

In  what  other  directions  may  we  hope  for  progress  ?  It  may 
well  come  in  the  development  of  public  spirit,  the  larger  awaken- 
ing of  intellect,  the  widening  of  outlook,  and  the  general  eleva- 


178  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

tion  of  tone.  Signs  of  such  advances,  as  we  believe,  are  not 
wanting,  while  we  cannot  but  wish  that  they  may  grow  beyond 
expectation.  It  is  quite  conceivable  that  Glencairn  may  in  yet 
more  enlightened  ways  pursue  her  own  higher  ends,  and  the  ends 
that  lie  where  far  horizons  beckon.  A  more  lively  appreciation 
of  such  ends,  and  a  growing  readiness  to  be  touched  to  these 
higher  issues,  will  surely  speak  of  progress.  May  we  not  look 
for  the  richer  fruits  of  reverent  faith,  and  the  true  order  of 
earnest,  well-regulated  lives  ?  Will  not  beauty  of  soul  find  here 
in  this  choice  field  of  Nature  a  yet  more  congenial  home  ?  For 
what  Mazzini  wrote  of  a  Country  we  may  with  equal  truth  say  of 
Glencairn : — "  The  true  Parish  is  the  Idea  to  which  it  gives 
birth." 


179 


APPENDIX   A. 
VERTEBRATE   FAUNA   OF   GLENCAIRN. 

MAMMALS. 

Long-eared  Bat  (Plecotus  auritis).     Common. 
Common  Bat  (Vesperugo  pipistrellus).     Common. 
Daubenton's  Bat  (Vespertilio  daubentoni).     Not  common. 

Hedgehog  (Erinaceus  europoaus).     Fairly  common. 

Mole  (Talpa  europoea),      Abundant.      Light-coloured  varieties 

not  infrequent. 

Common  Shrew  (Sorex  araneus).     Common. 
Lesser  Shrew  (Sorex  minutus).     Rare,  or  seldom  seen. 
Water  Shrew  (Crossopus  fodiens).     Rare,  or  seldom  seen. 

Fox  (Canis  vulpes).     Not  numerous. 

Weasel  (Mustela  vulgaris).     Fairly  common. 

Stoat  or  Ermine  (Mustela  erminea).     Fairly  common. 

Pole-Cat  or  Foumart  (Mustela  putorius).     Extinct  in  Glencairn 

since  1858. 
Otter  (Lutra  vulgaris).     Not  plentiful. 

Roe  Deer  (Capreolus  caprea).     Not  common. 

Squirrel  (Sciurus  vulgaris).     Not  uncommon. 

Brown  Rat  (Mus  decumanus).     Very  common. 

Common  Mouse  (Mus  musculus).     Common  everywhere. 

Field  Mouse  or  Wood  Mouse  (Mus  sylvaticus).  Fairly  numerous. 

Harvest  Mouse  (Mus  minutus).     Rare. 

Common  Field  Vole  or  Short-tailed  Vole  (Arvicola  agrestis). 

Common. 
Red  Field  Vole  or  Bank  Vole  (Arvicola  glariolus).       Fairly 

common. 


180  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Water  Vole  (Arvicola  amphibius).     Abundant. 

Common  Hare  (Lepus  europoeus).  Fairly  common.  De- 
creasing. 

Mountain  Hare  (Lepus  variabilis).  Seen  occasionally  on  the 
higher  hills. 

Rabbit  (Lepus  cuniculus).     Very  common. 

BIRDS. 

R= Resident. 

S  =  Summer  visitor. 

W  =  Winter  visitor 

M  =  Visitor  on  migration. 

C  =  Casual  visitor. 

*  Species  marked  thus  breed  in  the  parish  or  its  immediate 
neighbourhood. 

*  Mistle  Thrush  (Turdus  viscivorus).     Common.     R. 

*  Song  Thrush  (Turdus  musicus).     Common.     R.  and  W. 
Redwing  (Turdus  iliacus).     Common  visitor.     W. 
Fieldfare  (Turdus  pilaris).     Common  visitor.     W. 

*  Blackbird  (Turdus  merula).     Common.     R. 

*  Ring  Ouzel  (Turdus  torquatus).     Common  on  the  hills.     S. 

*  Dipper  (Cinclus  aquaticus).     Not  uncommon.     R. 

*  Wheatear  (Saxicola  cenanthe).     Common.     S. 

*  Whinchat  (Pratincola  rubetra).     Common.     S. 

*  Stonechat  (Pratincola  rubicola).     Rare.     R. 

*  Redstart  (Ruticilla  phoenicurus).     Not  infrequent.     S. 

*  Robin  (Erithacus  rubecula).     Common.     R. 

*  Whitethroat  (Sylvia  cinerea).     Common.     S. 

*  Lesser    Whitethroat    (Sylvia    curruca).       Summer    visitor. 

Perhaps  infrequent.     S. 

*  Blackcap  (Sylvia  atricapilla).     Very  rare.     S. 

*  Garden  Warbler  (Sylvia  hortensis).     Not  plentiful.     S. 

*  Golden-crested  Wren  (Regulus  cristatus).     Frequent.     R. 


VERTEBRATE  FAUNA.  181 

*  Chiff chaff  (Phylloscopus  rufus).     Rare.     S. 

*  Willow  Wren  (Phylloscopus  trochilus).     Not  uncommon.     S. 

*  Wood  Warbler  (Phylloscopus  sibilatrix).  Fairly  numerous.  S. 

*  Sedge  Warbler  (Acrocephalus  phragmitis).     Plentiful.     S. 

*  Grasshopper  Warbler  (Locustella  ncevia).     Occurs  sparingly. 

S. 

*  Hedge-sparrow  (Accentor  modularis).     Common.     R. 

*  Long-tailed  Tit  (Acredula  rosea).     Seen  occasionally.     R. 

*  Great  Tit  (Parus  major).     Common.     R. 

*  Coal  Tit  (Parus  britannicus).     Not  plentiful.     R. 
[Marsh  Tit  (Parus  palustris).     Reported.] 

*  Blue  Tit  (Parus  coeruleus).     Common.     R. 

*  Tree  Creeper  (Certhia  familiaris).     Not  uncommon.     R. 

*  Wren  (Troglodytes  parvulus).     Common.     R. 

*  Pied  Wagtail  (Motacilla  lugubris).     Common.     R. 

*  Grey  Wagtail  (Motacilla  melanope).     Not  uncommon.     R. 
White  Wagtail  (Motacilla  alba).     Identified,  but  not  a  plenti- 
ful species.     M. 

*  Yellow  Wagtail  (Motacilla  raii).      Not  common.      S. 

*  Meadow  Pipit  (Anthus  pratensis).     Abundant.     R. 

*  Tree  Pipit  (Anthus  trivialis).     Not  uncommon.     S. 
Red-backed    Shrike    (Lanius    collurio).       Recorded     1910. 

Rare.     C. 
Waxwing  (Ampelis  garrulus).     Casual  visitor.     Rare.     C. 

*  Spotted  Flycatcher  (Muscicapa  grisola).     Common.     S. 

*  Pied  Flycatcher  (Muscicapa  atricapilla).     Infrequent.  S. 

*  Swallow  (Hirundo  rustica).     Common.     S. 

*  House  Martin  (Chelidon  urbica).     Fairly  numerous,  but  de- 

creasing.    S. 

*  Sand  Martin  (Cotile  riparia).     Common.     S. 

*  Goldfinch  (Carduelis  elegans).     Not  plentiful.     R. 
Siskin  (Chrysomitris  spinus).     Occurs  sparingly.     W. 

*  Greenfinch  (Ligurinus  chloris).     Common.     R. 

*  House  Sparrow  (Passer  domesticus).     Abundant  everywhere. 

R. 


182  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

*  Chaffinch  (Fringilla  ccelebs).     Very  plentiful.     R. 
Brambling  (Fringilla  montifringilla).    Seen  occasionally.    W. 

*  Brown  Linnet  or  Common  Linnet  (Linota  cannabina).    Plenti- 

ful.    R. 

*  Lesser  Redpole  (Linote  rufescens).      Not  infrequent.      R. 

*  Twite  or  Mountain  Linnet    (Linota    flavirostris).     Frequent. 

R.  and  W. 

*  Bullfinch  (Pyrrhula  europcea).     Not  plentiful.     R. 
Crossbill  (Loxia  curvirostra).     Seen  occasionally.     W. 
Two-barred  Crossbill  (Loxia  bifasciata).    Recorded  1890.    C. 

*  Corn  Bunting  (Emberiza  miliaria).     Local.     R. 

*  Yellow-hammer  (Emberiza  citrinella).     Common.     R. 

*  Reed  Bunting  (Emberiza  schoeniclus).     Not  uncommon.     R. 
Snow   Bunting   (Plectrophenax  nivalis).     Not   an  infrequent 

visitor.     W. 

*  Skylark  (Alauda  arvensis).     Common.     R. 

*  Starling  (Sturnus  vulgaris).  Very  plentiful  and  increasing.  R. 

*  Magpie  (Pica  rustica).     Scarce  in  Glencairn.     R. 

*  Jackdaw    (Corvus    monedula).     Common.     Nests    in    rabbit 

burrows.     R. 

*  Carrion  Crow  (Corvus  corone).     Common.     R. 

*  Hooded  Crow  (Corvus  cornix).     Occurs  sparingly.     R.  and 

W. 

*  Rook  (Corvus  frugilegus).     Very  plentiful.     R. 

*  Raven  (Corvus  corax).     Now  rare,  but  still  a  nesting  species. 

R. 

*  Swift  (Cypselus  apus).     Formerly  common,  now  infrequent. 

S. 

*  Nightjar  (Caprimulgus  europoeus).     Not  common.     S. 

*  Great  Spotted  Woodpecker  (Dendrocopus  major).     Recorded 

1908,  1909,  and  1910.     S. 

*  Kingfisher  (Alcedo  ispida).     Not  common.     R. 

*  Cuckoo  (Cuculus  canorus).     Fairly  numerous.     S. 

*  Barn  Owl  (Strix  flammea).     Rare,  if  not  extinct.     R. 

*  Long-eared  Owl  (Asio  otus).     Not  uncommon.     R. 


VERTEBRATE  FAUNA.  183 

*  Short-eared  Owl  (Asio  accipitrinus).     Plentiful,  and  resident 

during  vole  plague,  1892.     W. 

*  Tawny  Owl  (Syrnium  aluco).     Common.     R. 

Common  Buzzard  (Buteo  vulgaris).     Seen  occasionally.     W. 
Rough -legged  Buzzard  (Buteo  lagopus).     Four  seen  winter 
1903-4.     C. 

*  Sparrow  Hawk  (Accipiter  nisus).     Not  uncommon.     R. 
Kite  (Milvus  ictinus).     Now  extinct  in  Glencairn. 
Peregrine  Falcon  (Falco  peregrinus).     Rare.     C. 

*  Merlin  (Falco  cesalon).     On   most   of   the   moors,  but   not 

plentiful.     R. 

*  Kestrel  (Falco  tinnunculus).     Fairly  common.     R. 
Cormorant  (Phalacrocorax  carbo).     Seen  occasionally.     W. 

*  Heron  (Ardea  cinerea).     Not  uncommon.     R. 

Grey-lag  Goose  (Anser  cinereus).     Seen  occasionally.     M. 
Whooper  Swan   (Cygnus  musicus).       Recorded   December, 
1893.     C. 

*  Mallard  or  Wild  Duck  (Anas  boscas).     Common.     R. 

*  Teal  (Nettion  crecca).     Not  uncommon.     R. 
Wigeon  (Mareca  penelope).     Not  plentiful.     W. 

Tufted  Duck  (Fuligula  crisata).  Recorded,  but  not  plenti- 
ful. W.  and(R?). 

Golden-eye  (Clangula  glaucion).     Not  common.     W. 

Goosander  (Mergus  merganser).  Seen  occasionally  on  the 
Cairn.  W. 

*  Wood  Pigeon  or  Ring  Dove  (Columba  palumbus).       Very 

common.     R. 

*  Stock  Dove  (Columba  oenas).     Not  plentiful,  but  increasing. 

R. 

*  Partridge  (Perdix  cinerea).       Still  fairly  common,  but  de- 

creasing.    R. 

*  Quail   (Coturnix  communis).     Said  to  have  been   common 

about  1830,  now  an  irregular  visitor.     C. 

*  Pheasant  (Phasianus  colchicus).     Common.     R. 

*  Grouse  (Lagopus  scoticus).     Common.     R. 


184  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

*  Black-Grouse  (Tetrao  tetrix).     Common.     R. 

*  Water-Rail  (Rallus  aquaticus).     Not  common,  but  increasing. 

W.  and  R. 

Spotted  Crake  (Porzana  maruetta).  Rare.  Recorded  Loch 
Urr,  14th  September,  1889.  W.  and  (R?) 

*  Corn  Crake  or  Land  Rail  (Crex  pratensis).     Common.     S. 

*  Moor-hen  (Gallinula  chloropus).     Common.     R. 

*  Coot  (Fulica  atra).     Occurs  sparingly.     R. 

*  Golden  Plover  (Charadrius  pluvialis).     Common  on  the  hills. 

S. 

*  Lapwing  or  Pewit  (Vanellus  vulgaris).     Common.     R. 
Oyster-catcher  (Hcematopus  ostralegus).     Has  been  seen  on 

the  Cairn.     S. 

*  Woodcock  (Scolopax  rusticola).     Fairly  numerous.     Increas- 

ing.    R. 

[Great  Snipe  (Gallinago  major).  Reported  on  southern 
border.] 

*  Common  Snipe  (Gallinago  coelestis).     Common.     R. 

Jack  Snipe  (Gallinago  gallinula).  Not  uncommon  in  winter. 
W. 

*  Common  Sandpiper  (Totanus  hypoleucus).     Common.     S. 

*  Redshank  (Totanus  calidris).    Rapidly  becoming  common.    S. 

*  Curlew  (Numenius  arquata).     Common.     S. 

Common  Tern  (Sterna  fluviatilis).  Wanderer  recorded  1893. 
C. 

*  Black-headed  Gull  (Larus  ridibundus).       Common.       Two 

nesting  places.     R. 

Common  Gull  (Larus  canus).  Frequent,  autumn  and  winter 
months.  W. 

Lesser  Black-backed  Gull  (Larus  fuscus).  Not  uncommon 
during  winter.  W. 

Great  Black-backed  Gull  (Larus  marinus).  Seen  occasion- 
ally during  winter.  W. 

Great  Northern  Diver  (Colymbus  glacialis).  Specimen  shot 
on  Cairn,  2nd  February,  1877.  Rare.  C. 


VERTEBRATE  FAUNA.  185 

Red-throated  Diver  (Colymbus  septentrionalis).       Recorded 
1862.     C. 

Great  Crested  Grebe  (Prodiceps  cristatus).       Recorded  by 

Hugh  S.  Gladstone,  Esq.  of  Capenoch,  Summer,  1910. 
*  Little  Grebe  or  Dabchick  (Prodiceps  fluviatilis).     First  ob- 
served 1885.     Now  nests  regularly. 

REPTILES. 

Common  Lizard  (Lacerta  vivipara),     Generally  distributed. 
Slow  Worm  (Anguis  fragilis).     Local.     Not  plentiful  anywhere. 

Adder  (Pelias  berus).       Numerous  along  southern  and  eastern 

borders. 
Ringed  Snake  (Coluber  natrix).       Probably  introduced.       Not 

a  plentiful  species. 

AMPHIBIANS. 

Frog  (Rana  temporaria).      Common. 
Toad  (Bufo  vulgaris).      Common. 
Warted  Newt  (Molge  cristata).      Local. 
Common  Newt  (Molge  vulgaris).       Not  uncommon. 
Palmated  Newt  (Molge  palmata).      Moss  hags  on  the  hills. 

FISHES. 
Perch  (Perca  fluviatilis).       Said  to  occur  in  Loch  Urr. 

Three-spined      Stickleback      (Gastrosteus      aculeatus).        Not 
uncommon. 

Salmon  (Salmo  salar).      Migrant.      Not  plentiful. 

Sea  Trout  (Salmo  trutta).      Migrant.      Not  plentiful. 

Common  Trout  (Salmo  fario).       Plentiful. 

Pike  (Esox  lucius).      Plentiful  in  Loch  Urr.       Not  numerous 

in  the  streams. 

Minnow  (Leuciscus  phoxinus).       Generally  distributed. 
Loach  (Nemachilus  barbatulus).       Fairly  numerous. 
Eel  (Anguilla  vulgaris).     Common  in  all  lochs  and  streams. 


APPENDIX  B. 
FLORA. 

A  LIST  OF  SOME  OF  THE  LESS  COMMON  PLANTS  FOUND  IN 

GLENCAIRN. 

All  the  species  enumerated  have   been  gathered  by  the 
writer.     In  a  number  of  instances  the  places  are  also  given. 

RANUNCTJLACE.E. 

Aquilegia  vulgaris  (Linn.),  Columbine — Jarbruck  Wood. 
Helleborus    viridis    (Linn.),     Green    Hellebore — Wood    near 
Moniaive. 

NYMPHJEACEJE. 

Nuphar   intermedium   (Ledeb.),    Yellow   Water    Lily — Stroan- 
shalloch  Loch. 

FUMARIACEJE. 

Corydalis    claviculata    (DC.),     White    Climbing    Fumitory — 

Jarbruck  and  Craigdarroch  woods. 

CRUCIFER^;. 
Cochlearia  officinalis  (Linn.),  Scurvy  Grass — Martour,  Dibbin, 

and  Conrick  hills. 
Hesperis    matronalis    (Linn.),    Dame's    Violet — Stream    near 

Moniaive  and  along  Cairn.      Recorded  1891. 
Brassica     campestris     (L.),     Wild     Navew — Riverside     near 

Moniaive. 

CISTINE^E. 
Helianthemum  chamaecistus  (Mill.),   Rock  Rose — Craigneston, 

600  ft.,  Bardennoch,  700  ft.     Not  plentiful. 

VIOLACE^B. 

Viola  adorata  (Linn.),  Sweet  Violet — River  bank  near  Moniaive. 
Viola  palustris    (Linn.),  Marsh    Violet — Twomerkland    Loch. 
White  variety. 

CARYOPHYLLEJB. 

Silene     Cttcubalus     (Wibel.),    Bladder     Campion — Frequent. 
Grainnes,  etc. 


FLORA.  187 

Lychnis  Githago  (Lam.),  Corncockle — Not  frequent.     Probably 

introduced  with  seed. 

Lychnis  vespertina  (Sip.),  White  Campion — Rare  in  Glencairn. 
Sagina  subulata  (Wimm.),   Awl -shaped   Pearl -wort — Recorded 

1891.     Near  Castlehill. 

HYPERICINE.E. 

Hypericum  humifusum  (Linn.),  Trailing  St.  John's  Wort — Not 
common.     Bardennoch,  etc. 

MALVACEJE. 

Malva  sylvestris  (Linn.),  Common  Mallow — Neighbourhood  of 
Moniaive.     Probably  an  outcast. 

GERANIACEJE. 

Geranium  phaum  (Linn.),  Dusky  Crane's-bill — Single  station, 
apparently  old-established,  near  Moniaive. 

Geranium    sylvaticum    (Linn.),    Wood    Crane's-bill — Not    un- 
common. 

Geranium  pralense  (Linn.),  Blue  Meadow  Crane's-bill — Less 
plentiful  than  G.  sylvaticum  in  Glencairn. 

LEGUMINOS^B. 

Trifolium  arvense  (Linn.),    Hare's-foot   Trefoil — Dry  pasture 
lands  south-west  of  Moniaive;  not  common. 

Trifolium     striatum     (Linn.),     Soft-knotted     Trefoil — Single 
station.     Rare. 

ROSACES. 

Prunus  insititia  (Linn.),  Bullace — Jarbruck  Woods. 

Spiraa  salicifolia  (Linn.),  Willow-leaved    Spiraea — Near    Jar- 
bruck. 

Rubus  saxatilis  (Linn.),  Stone  Blackberry — Sub-Alpine    glens, 
Minnygrile,  Glencrosh,  etc. 

Rubus   Chamamorus   (Linn.),   Cloudberry — Western  border  of 
parish,  1700  ft. 

Rosa  spinosissima  (Linn.),  Burnet-leaved  Rose — Single  station. 
Rare  inland. 

Agrimonia  Eupatoria  (Linn.),  Common  Agrimony — Not  infre- 
quent.    Woodlea,  Glencrosh,  etc. 


188  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

SAXIFRAGES. 
Saxifrdga  stellar  is  (Linn.),  Starry  Saxifrage — Rare.     Dalwhat 

Glen,  alt.  1650  ft. 
Saxifraga    granulata    (Linn.),    Meadow    saxifrage — Bank    of 

Castlefairn  stream.     Only  station. 
Saxifraga  hypoides  (Linn.),  Mossy  Saxifrage,  locally  "  Ladies' 

cushion  " — Benbrack,  1800  ft.,  and  neighbouring  hills. 

CRASSULACEJE. 

Sedum  Rhodiola  (DC.),  Rose-root  Stonecrop — River  bank  below 

Moniaive. 
Sedum  villosum  (Linn.),  Hairy  Stonecrop — Wet  roadsides  in  the 

hillier  districts. 
Sedum  Telephium  (Linn.),  Orpine  or  Livelong — Grainnes,  near 

Moniaive. 

DROSERACEJE. 

Drosera    longifolia    (Linn.),     Long-leaved    Sundew — Western 
border  of  parish.     Rare. 

ONAGRACES. 

Circaa     lutetiana     (Linn.),      Enchanter's     Nightshade  —  Not 
common.     Woods  near  Caitloch  and  Poundland. 

LYTHRACE.3E. 

Lythrum   salicaria   (Linn.),  Upright   Purple   Loosestrife — Not 
common.     River  bank  near  Moniaive,  Loch  Urr,  etc. 

UMBELLIFERS. 

Sanicula  Europcea  (Linn.),  Wood  Sanicle — Wooded  glens.     Not 
uncommon. 

Carum  verticillatum  (Koch),  Whorled  Caraway — Abundant  in 

Glencairn. 

Myrrhis  adorata  (Scop.),  Sweet  Cicely — Not  uncommon. 
(Enanthe    crocata    (Linn.),    Hemlock   Water-dropwort.       Not 

common.     Near  Moniaive  and  Maxwelton. 
Meum  Athamanticum  (Jacq.),  Bald-money — Plentiful  but  local. 

CAPRIFOLIACEJE. 

Adoxa     Moschatellina     (Linn.),     Moschatel — Not     infrequent. 
Woods  and  hedgerows. 


FLORA.  189 

RUBIACE.2B 

Galium  cruciata  (Scop.),  Cross-wort  Bedstraw — Roadside  near 
Moniaive.  Not  common. 

VALERIANE^E. 

Valeriana  pyrenaica  (Linn.),  Heart-leaved  Valerian — Dalwhat 
stream,  near  Moniaive. 

COMPOSITE. 

Solidago  Virgaurea  (Linn.),  Golden-rod — Not  uncommon. 

Tanacetum  vulgare  (Linn.),  Tansy — Garden  escape.  Grainnes, 
near  Moniaive. 

Senecio  sylvaticus  (Linn.),  Mountain  Groundsel — Near  Cross- 
ford.  Rare  in  Glencairn. 

Arctium  lappa  (Linn.),  Common  Burdock — Not  infrequent. 

CAMPANULACE^i. 

Lobelia  Dortmanna  (Linn.),  Water  Lobelia — Loch  Urr.     Rare. 
Campanula  latifolia  (Linn.),  Giant  Bell-flower — Cairn  and  its 
tributaries. 

VACCINIACEJE. 

Vaccinium  Vitis-Idcea  (Linn.),  Cowberry — Western  border  of 
parish.  Not  common. 

PRIMULACE^. 

Anagallis  arvensis  (Linn.),  Scarlet  Pimpernel — Not  infrequent. 
Chiefly  by  waysides. 

APOCYNACE^E. 

Vinca  minor  (Linn.),  Lesser  Periwinkle — Jarbruck  woods. 
Rare. 

GENTIANEJB. 

Gentiana  campestris  (Linn.),  Field  Gentian — Old  hill  pastures. 

Kirkcudbright,  etc. 
Menyanthes  trifoliata  (Linn.),  Bog  Bean — Common  in  marshy 

places. 

BORAGINEJE. 

Symphytum  officinale  (Linn.),  Common  Comfrey — Not  un- 
common. Abundant  on  the  Cairn. 

Anchusa  sempervirens  (Linn.),  Evergreen  Alkanet — Craig 
darroch  woods.  Rare. 


190  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

CONVOLVULACEJB. 

Convolvulus  Sepium  (Linn.),  Great  Bindweed — Frequent  along 
Cairn. 

SOLANACE.3S. 

Solatium  nigrum  (Linn),  Common  Nightshade — Near  Moniaive. 

Probably  casual.     Rare. 
Solatium  Dulcamara  (Linn.),  Woody  Nightshade  or  Bittersweet. 

On  Cairn  near  Maxwelton,  etc. 

SCROPHULARINE.E. 

Verbascum  Thapsus  (Linn.),  Great  Mullein — Roadside  near 
Moniaive.  Rare. 

Linaria  vulgaris  (Mill.),  Yellow  Toad-flax — Fields  and  road- 
sides. Not  common. 

Mitnulus  luteus  (Linn.),  Yellow  Mimulus — Naturalised  escape 
or  outcast  rapidly  becoming  common. 

LENTIBULARIEJE. 

Utricularia     neglecta     (Lehm),     Bladder-wort — New     Scottish 

record,  1891. 

Utricularia  intermedia  (Hayne).     Recorded  1887. 
Utricularia    minor     (Linn.),    Lesser    Bladder-wort — Recorded 

1890. 

LABIATE. 

Scutellaria  galericulata  (Linn.),  Common  Skull  Cap — Loch  Urr 

and  near  Maxwelton.     Not  common. 
Galeopsis    versicolor    (Curt.),    Large-flowered    Hemp-nettle — 

Frequent  in  Glencairn. 

POLYGONACEJE. 

Polygonum  Bistorta  (Linn.),  Common  Bistort  or  Snake-weed — 
Near  Caitloch,  Blackstone,  and  Crossford.  Not  common. 

Polygonum  amphibium  (Linn.),  Amphibious  Bistort — Loch  Urr. 
Rare. 

Polygonum  minus  (Huds.),  Creeping  Persicaria — Loch  Urr. 
Rare. 

EUPHORBIACEJE. 

Euphorbia  dulcis  (Linn.),  an  alien — Castlefairn  stream.     Rare. 


FLORA.  191 

SALICINE.E. 
Salix  pentandra  (Linn.),  Bay-leaved  Willow — Loch  Urr,  Castle- 

fairn,  and  near  Moniaive.     Rare. 
Salix   repens    (Linn.),    Dwarf    Silky    Willow — Single    station. 

Rare. 

EMPETRACE.E. 

Empetrum  nigrum  (Linn.),  Black  Crowberry — Frequent  Gir- 
harrow  and  other  hills.  Rare  in  fruit. 

ORCHIDE.E. 

Malaxis  paludosa  (Sw.),  Bog  Orchis — Recorded  1887.     Rare. 

Listera  ovata  (R.  Br.),  Twayblade — Frequent  in  moist  pastures. 

Habenaria  albida  (R.  Br.),  Small  White  Habenaria — Mountain 
pastures.  Not  common. 

Habenaria  viridis  (R.  Br.),  Green  Habenaria.  Sparsely  distri- 
buted on  the  hills. 

LILIACEJE. 

Fritillaria  meleagris  (Linn.),  Common  Fritillary  or  Snake 's- 
head — River  bank  east  of  Moniaive.  Recorded  1906. 
Rare. 

TYPHACE2E. 

Sparganium  ramosum  (Curtis),  Branched  Bur-Reed — Ditches 
adjoining  Cairn.  Not  infrequent. 

AROIDE.E. 

Arum  maculatum  (Linn.),  Cuckoo-pint — Jarbruck  Wood. 
Recorded  1887.  Rare. 

CYPERACE.E. 

Carex  dioica  (Linn.),  Separate-headed  Sedge — Girharrow.  Not 
common. 

Carex  pauci flora  (Lightf.),  Few-flowered  Sedge — Girharrow  and 
Loch  Urr.  Rare. 

Carex  muricata  (Linn.),  Great  Prickly  Sedge — Frequent  by  the 
road-sides. 

Carex  remota  (Linn.),  Distant-spiked  Sedge — Woodlea,   Cait- 

loch.     Not  common. 
Carex  curia  (Good.),  White  Sedge— Bogs.     Not  infrequent. 


192  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

Car  ex  irrigua  (Hoppe).  Recorded  in  Babington's  Flora.  Re- 
discovered, 1887.  Rare. 

Carex  limosa  (Linn.),  Mud  Sedge — Stroanshalloch  Loch.   Rare. 

Carex  pallescens  (Linn.),  Pale  Sedge.     Frequent. 

Carex  sylvatica  (Huds.),  Pendulous  Wood  Sedge — Jarbruck  and 
Caitloch.  Not  common. 

Carex  ftava  (Linn.),  Yellow  Sedge.     Frequent. 

Carex  fulva  (Good.),  Tawny  Sedge.     Frequent. 

Carex  filiformis  (Linn.),  Slender-leaved  Sedge — Girharrow. 
Rare. 

Carex  hirta  (Linn.),  Hairy  Sedge.     Rare  in  Glencairn. 

Carex  paludosa  (Good.),  Lesser  Common  Sedge — Ingleston  and 

Maxwelton. 
Carex    vesicaria    (Linn.),    Short-beaked    Bladder    Sedge — On 

Cairn.     Not  common. 

Carex  ampullacea  (Good.),  Slender-beaked  Bladder  Sedge. 
Frequent. 

FILICES. 

Hymcnophyllum  unilateral  (Bory),  Filmy  Fern — Upper  reaches 

of  Dalwhat  Water,  Glencrosh,  and  Minnygrile.     Rare. 
Cryptogramme  crispa  (R.  Br.),  Parsley  Fern — Caitloch,  Craig- 

darroch,  Castlehill,  etc.     Not  plentiful. 
Asplenium    Adiantum-nigrum    (Linn.),     Black    Spleenwort  — 

Minnygrile  and  near  Kirkcudbright.     Not  common. 
Asplenium    Ruta-muraria    (Linn.),    Wall-rue.       Jarbruck    and 

Craignee.     Not  common. 

Ceterach  officinarum  (Willd.),  Scale  Fern — Near  eastern  boun- 
dary of  parish.  Rare. 

Scolopendrium  vulgare  (Symons),  Hart's-tongue.  Rare  in 
Glencairn.  Specimens  gathered  near  Jarbruck  and  Glen- 
crosh. 

Cystopteris  fragilis  (Bernh.),  Brittle  Bladder-fern — Glenjaan 
Hill.  Rare. 

Polypodium  Phegopteris  (Linn.),  Beech  Fern — Glencrosh, 
Minnygrile,  and  other  sub-alpine  glens. 


FLORA.  193 

Poly  podium  Dryopteris  (Linn.) — Oak  Fern.     Frequent. 
Ophioglossum    vulgatum    (Linn.),  Adder's-tongue  Fern — Cait- 

loch,    600    ft.,    meadows    near    Twomerkland    Mill,    and 

Castlehill. 

Botrychium  Lunaria  (Sw.),  Moon-wort  Fern — Frequent  through- 
out Glencairn. 

(In  all  20  species  of  Ferns  have  been  recorded.) 

LYCOPODIACEJE. 

Lycopodium  Selago  (Linn.),  Fir  Club  Moss — Found  sparingly 

on  upland  moors. 
Lycopodium  davatum  (Linn.),  Common  Club  Moss — Among  the 

heather,  Girharrow,  etc.     Not  plentiful. 
Selaginella  selaginoides  (Gray) — Frequent  in  boggy  places  on 

the  hills. 


194 


ADDENDUM    TO    FLORA. 

INDIVIDUAL    TREES    OF    LARGE    GROWTH: 

TABULAR  LIST. 

ASH. — Glencairn  Churchyard,  N.E.  corner  adjoining  roadway 
Circumference  12  ft.,  circa  1883. 

ASH. — Glencairn  Churchyard,  east  of  old  church,  11  ft.  8  in. 
at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

ASH. — Avenue,  north-east  of  Craigdarroch,  12  ft.  3  in.  at  5  ft. 
above  the  ground,  1909. 

ASH. — South-east  of  Kirkcudbright  Farm,  12  ft.  in  circumfer- 
ence at  4  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

ASH. — South-west  of  Kirkcudbright  Farm,  11  ft.  4  in.  at  5  ft. 
above  the  ground,  1909. 

BEECH. — Craigdarroch.  Cut  down  owing  to  injury  sustained 
during  storm,  1883.  Girth  at  base  16  ft.  2  in.;  at  6  ft. 
from  base  14  ft.  2  in. 

BEECH. — Back  road  Craigdarroch,  12  ft.  2  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the 
ground. 

BEECH. — Near  back  gate  Craigdarroch,  14  ft.  in  circumference 
between  4  and  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1908. 

BEECH. — South-east  of  Lodge,  Craigdarroch,  16  ft.  in  circum- 
ference at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1908. 

BEECH.- — On  line  of  old  roadway  between  Woodhouse  and 
Craigdarroch,  12  ft.  6  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

BEECH. — On  line  of  old  roadway  between  Woodhouse  and 
Craigdarroch,  12  ft.  7  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

BEECH. — Adjoining  roadway  north-east  of  Craigdarroch  Gardens, 
13  ft.  10  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

BEECH.- — Overlooking  avenue  north-east  of  Craigdarroch  Man- 
sion house,  16  ft.  6  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

BEECH. — In  field  north-east  of  Maxwelton  Lodge  (South 
entrance),  15  ft.  6  in.  at  4  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

BEECH. — Adjoining  roadway  Kirkcudbright  Farm,  12  ft.  6  in. 
at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 


ADDENDUM  TO  FLORA.  195 

BEECH. — Craigneston,  near  roadway,  15  ft.  in  circumference  at 
5  ft.  from  the  ground,  1908. 

CRAB. — On  line  of  old  roadway  north  of  Woodhouse,  7  ft.  3  in. 
in  circumference  at  3  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

ELM. — Near  public  roadway  a  few  yards  north-west  of  Craig- 
darroch  Lodge,  12  ft.  1  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

ELM. — Adjoining  roadway  south-east  of  Craigdarroch  Lodge, 
11  ft.  8  in.  in  circumference,  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground, 
1909. 

ELM. — On  line  of  old  roadway  near  Dungalston,  13  ft.  in  cir- 
cumference at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

HORSE  CHESTNUT. — Two,  growing  on  lawn  in  front  of  Craig- 
darroch Mansion  house,  respectively  11  ft.  and  11  ft.  10  in. 
at  5  ft.  above  ground,  1909. 

HORSE  CHESTNUT. — North-east  of  Old  Crawfordton,  13  ft.  6  in. 
at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1910. 

LARCH. — Blown  down  at  Craigdarroch,  1883.  8  ft.  8  in.  in 
circumference.  , 

LARCH. — Cut  at  Craigdarroch,  1906.  13  ft.  6  in.  in  circum- 
ference at  base,  with  36  feet  of  clean  stem. 

LARCH. — North-west  of  Craigdarroch  Lodge,  12  ft.  6  in.  in 
circumference  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1908. 

LARCH. — North-west  of  Craigdarroch  Lodge,  11  ft.  6  in. 
between  4  and  5  ft.  from  the  ground,  1909. 

OAK. — Glencairn  Churchyard,  10  ft.  in  circumference  at  5  ft. 
above  the  ground. 

OAK. — Near  entrance  to  Old  Crawfordton,  12  ft.  in  circum- 
ference at  5  ft.  above  the  ground. 

OAK. — South-west  of  Hunter's  Lodge,  10  ft.  6  in.  in  circum- 
ference at  4  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

SCOTCH  FIR. — Craigneston,  10  ft.  in  circumference  at  5  ft. 
above  the  ground,  1908. 

SILVER  FIR. — Ladies'  Brae  Plantation,  Craigdarroch,  blown 
down  1902.  16  ft.  7  in.  in  circumference  at  base. 

SILVER  FIR. — Ladies'  Brae  Plantation,  Craigdarroch,  a  com- 
panion tree  to  the  above,  14  ft.  8  in.  at  base;  13  ft.  at 
5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1908. 


196 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 


SILVER   FIR. — Ladies'    Brae   Plantation,    Craigdarroch,    11    ft. 

11  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1908. 
SYCAMORE. — Woodlea,  10  ft.  9  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground, 

1908. 

SYCAMORE.— Back  road,  Craigdarroch,  14  ft.  in  circumference 

at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1908. 
SYCAMORE. — Near  entrance  to  Gardens,   Craigdarroch,    11    ft. 

9  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground,  1909. 

SYCAMORE. — Castlehill,   14  ft.  4  in.  in  circumference  at  5  ft. 

above  the  ground,   1909.     Perhaps  the  finest  tree  in  the 

parish. 
YEW. — Nine  fine  trees  at  Snade.       Two  largest,   respectively 

10  ft.  5  in.  and  10  ft.  6  in.  at  5  ft.  above  the  ground. 


197 


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198  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

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BORROWMAN,  REV.  PATRICK,  Glencairn. 

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200  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

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FERGUSSON,  JAMES,  and  FERGUSSON,  ROBERT  MENZIES. 

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FERGUSSON,  JAMES,  Stonedyker,  Minyhive. 

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FISHER,  JAMES. 

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LAURIE,  REV.  SIB  EMILIUS,  Bart.,  B.D.,  of  Maxwelton  (contd.). 

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206  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

MAIDMENT,  JAMES,  Advocate. 

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MARCHBANK,  AGNES. 

Ruth  Farmer,  a  story.     London.     1896. 
Scene  laid  in  Glencairn. 

MARTIN,  Dr  J.  W. 

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and  A.  Soc.     1899-1900. 
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Instituted,  May  3rd,  1805,  as  amended  3rd  November,  1815. 
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MONTEITH,  REV.  JOHN. 

The  Parish  of  Glencairn.     Glasgow.     1876.     pp.  79. 

Originally  appeared  in  "  Dumfries  and  Galloway  Courier 
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NICOL,  WILLIAM,  of  Laggan. 

Dear  Christless  Bobbie,  what  is  become  of  thee?     Edinburgh, 

10th  February,  1793.     In  "Works  of  Robert  Burns,"  ed. 

W.  Scott  Douglas.     VI.,  54. 
See  also  Burns,  Robert. 
PARK,  REV.  JOHN,  D.D.,  Glencairn. 
Lectures  and  Sermons.     1865. 
Songs  composed  and  in  part  written  by  the  late  Rev.  John 

Park,    D.D.,    St.    Andrews,    with    introductory     notice    by 

Principal  Shairp,  LL.D.,  St.  Andrews.     Leeds.     1876.     pp. 

viii.,  382. 

PATERSON,  JAMES,  R.S.A. 

Carlyle  at  Craigenputtock.     In  "  Good  Words."     1882. 
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1888. 

Nithsdale.     [Letterpress  and  Illustrations.]     1893. 
PHILIP,  REV.  ROBERT  G.,  M.A.,  Glencairn. 

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[POLLOCK,  REV.  JOHN,  Glencairn.] 

An  Answer  to  the  first  part  of  Humble  Pleadings,  or  a 
Vindication  of  the  Church  of  Scotland  from  the  Unjust 
Aspersions  of  Mr  Hepburn  and  his  Party.  Submitted  to 
the  Judgment  of  all  Impartial  and  Unprejudiced  People, 
especially  of  these  in  the  Shires  of  Nithsdale,  Air,  and 
Clidsdale,  with  the  Stuartries  of  Annandale  and  Kirkcud- 
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RAE,  REV.  PETER,  Kirkbride  and  (later)  Kirkconnel. 

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possession  of  the  Rev.  Dr  J.  King  Hewison,  Rothesay, 
includes  historical  and  descriptive  accounts  of  the  parishes 
of  Kirkbride,  Durisdeer,  Morton,  Penpont,  Keir,  Close- 
burn,  and  Glencairn,  with  notices  of  the  principal  families. 

RENWICK,  REV.  JAMES,  M.A. 

Apologetical  Declaration  published  at  Sanquhar,  June  22, 
1680. 

Printed  in  "  An  Informatory  Vindication  "  and  ascribed, 
in  part  at  least,  to  Renwick. 

The  Testimony  of  some  Persecuted  Presbyterian  Ministers  of 
the  Gospel.  Given  in  to  the  Ministers  at  Edinburgh  by 
Mr  James  Renwick  upon  the  17  Januarii,  1B88.  [Texts.] 
Printed  in  the  year  1688.  4to.  pp.  36. 

Antipas,  or  the  Dying  Testimony  of  Mr  James  Renwick, 
minister  of  the  Gospel,  who  suffered  at  the  Grass  Market 
of  Edinburgh,  February  17,  1688.  [Edinburgh,  1688.]  Sm. 
4to.  pp.  8. 

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dale, by  that  Great  Man  of  God  and  now  glorified  Martyr, 
Mr  James  Renwick.  4to.  pp.  16.  7J  by  5J. 

Mr  James  Renwick.  January  22,  1688.  Some  Notes  or 
Heads  of  a  Sermon  preached  by  that  great  and  bright 
shining  Gospel-Star  and  now  Glorified  Martyr.  pp.  15. 
7'  by  51. 

Mr  James  Renwick.  A  Sermon  preached  by  that  Eminent 
Godly  and  Faithfull  Servant  of  Jesus  Christ  and  Minister 
of  the  Gospel.  Isaiah  8,  17.  pp.  8.  7  by  5-f- . 

The  Saint's  Duty  in  Evil  Times.     In  two  Sermons.     Glasgow. 
1779.     24pp. 
Probably  published  as  early  as  1716. 


208  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

RENWIOK,  REV.  JAMES,  M.A.  (contd.). 

[The]  Church's  Choice.     A  Sermon  on  Canticles,  Ch.  1,  5,  7. 

Printed  in  the  year  1705.  55  pp.  7  by  oi. 
An  Informatory  Vindication  of  a  poor,  wasted,  misrepresented 
Remnant  of  the  Suffering,  Anti-Popish,  Anti-Prelatick, 
Anti-Erastian,  Anti-Sectarian,  true  Presbyterian  Church 
of  Christ  in  Scotland,  united  together  in  a  general  corre- 
spondence. By  way  of  Reply  to  various  Accusations  in 
Letters,  Informations,  and  Conferences  given  forth  against 
them.  1707.  12mo.  pp.  278. 

A  Confutation  of  a  Scandalous  Pamphlet,  intituled  A 
Manifesto,  or  the  Standard  of  the  Church  of  Scotland. 
.  By  the  United  Societies.  .  .  .  To  which  is 
annexed  A  Pertinent  Letter  of  Mr  James  Renwick's  to  Mr 
Langlans.  .  .  .  Printed  in  the  year  1724.  12mo. 
pp.  48. 

A  Choice  Collection  of  very  valuable  Prefaces,  Lectures,  and 
Sermons,  preached  upon  the  Mountains  and  Muirs,  etc.,  of 
Scotland,  in  the  hottest  time  of  the  late  Persecution.  In 
Two  Volumes.  By  that  faithful  Minister  and  Martyr  of 
Jesus  Christ,  the  Reverend  Mr  James  Renwick.  Glasgow. 
Vol.  I.,  1748.  Vol.  II.,  1751.  Sm.  8vo.  [Often  reprinted 
with  additions.] 

In  an  edition  of  the  Sermons  published  at  Glasgow  in 
1776  we  find  the  following  names  among  the  subscribers: — 
John  Smith  younger  of  Glen j  an,  Samuel  Gries  (Grier?) 
in  Miniehive.  Also  the  following,  '  given  in  by  James 
Fisher,  Merchant  in  Minnyhive: — 

James  Maxwell.  Thomas  Drummond. 

William  Maxwell.  Robert  Hogg. 

James  Muirhead.  Nathaniel  Davidson. 

Robert  Muirhead.  Alexander  Ferguson. 

John  Wallace.  William  Cotts. 

James  M'Queen.  William  Bom'tin. 

A  Collection  of  Letters,  consisting  of  Ninety-three,  Sixty-one 

of   which   wrote   by  the   Rev.   Mr   James   Renwick     . 

From  the  years  1663  to  1689  inclusive.     (Edited  by  Rev. 

John  Macmillan  of  Pentland.)     Edinburgh.     .     .     .     1764. 

12mo.     pp.  xii.,    437. 

Subscribers'  Names.  .  .  Glencairn  Parish — Walter 
Clark,  merchant  in  Minniehive ;  John  Cunningham, 
farmer,  Barbowie ;  Samuel  Grierson,  taylor  in  Minnie- 
hive  ;  James  Grierson,  taylor  there ;  Thomas  Gracie,  dyker 
there ;  William  M'Whir  there ;  Murdoch  Murphie,  inn- 
keeper there ;  Elizabeth  Smith,  in  Glenf an. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY.  209 

RBNWICK,  REV.  JAMES,  M.A.  (contd.). 

Proclamations  by  the  Privy  Council: — 20th  September,  1684. 
Against  Mr  James  Renwick.  Edinburgh,  Heir  of  Andrew 
Anderson,  single  sheet. 

9th  December,  1686.  Offering  a  reward.  .  .  .  [for]  the 
person  of  Mr  James  Renwick.  Edinburgh,  Heir  of  Andrew 
Anderson,  single  sheet. 

18th  October,  1687.  Against  field  conventicles  .  .  .  reward 
for  apprehending  James  Renwick.  Edinburgh,  Heir  of 
Andrew  Anderson,  single  sheet. 

An  Elegie  upon  the  Death  of  that  Famous  and  Faithful 
Minister  and  Martyr,  Mr  James  Renwick.  Composed  im- 
mediately after  his  Execution  at  Edinburgh,  17th  Feb., 
1688.  [Text  Rev.  2,  13.  Figure  of  an  angel  sitting,  with 
a  crown  in  each  hand.]  Printed  in  the  year  1688.  Sm.  4to. 
Six  leaves.  Title  within  black  border.  Two  anagrams  and 
an  acrostick  on  last  page. 

Vertoog  van  het  quaad  der  toelating,  vergunt  door  den  Koning 
van  Engeland ;  en  der  Addressen  daar  over  gedaan  aan 
hem ;  en  de  noodsakelikheyd  om't  Evangelium  voortaan  in 
de  velden  te  prediken.  Voorgestelt  door  eenige  vervolchde 
Schotse  Predicanten,  en  gepresenteert  aen  de  Predicanten 
tot  Edenburch  .  .  .  door  Mr  J.  Renwick.  [Translated 
from  the  English,  Amsterdam?]  1688.  4to. 

Apparently  a  representation  on  Renwick' a  side. 

[LiN,  THOMAS,  Junior.] 

The  Friendly  Conference,  or  a  Discourse  between  the 
Country  man  and  his  Nephew.  .  .  Wherein  .  .  The 
manifold  difference  between  Mr  M'Millan  and  Mr  J. 
Renwick  .  .  is  clearly  illustrated.  Edinburgh.  1711. 
4to. 

SHIELDS,  ALEXANDER. 

The  Life  and  Death  of  .  .  Mr  James  Renwick  .  .  . 
by  Mr  Alexander  Shields.  1724. 

The  Life  of  James   Renwick.     .     .     .     Dumfries.      Printed   for 
the  Booksellers,     pp.  24. 

A  Chap-book,  Reprinted  from  Howie's  "  Scots  Worthies." 
1775.     Issued  after  1827. 

[SiME,  WILLIAM.] 

The  Life  of  James  Renwick,  the  last  of  the  Scottish  Martyrs. 
.  .  Edinburgh.  1833.  12mo. 


210  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

HENWICK,  REV.  JAMES,  M.A.  (contd.). 
SIMPSON,  REV.  ROBERT,  D.D.,  Sanquhar. 

Life     of     the     Rev.     James     Renwick.       Edinburgh.       1843. 
pp.  viii.,  220.     12mo.     [First  edition.      Anonymous.      Edin- 
burgh.    1833.     12mo.     pp.  180.] 
BEITH,  ALEXANDER,  D.D. 

James  Renwick.    In  "Scottish  Reformers  and  Martyrs."    1860. 
ANDERSON,  REV.  WILLIAM,  A.M.,  Loanhead,  Edinburgh. 
The     Voice     of     Renwick.     .     .     A     Sermon     preached     [at 
Moniaive]    on    the    bi-centenary     of     his     birth.       London. 
1862.     pp.  47. 

HOUSTON,  THOMAS,  D.D. 

Spiritual  Support  and  Consolation  in  Difficult  Times:  The 
Letters  of  the  Rev.  James  Renwick.  .  .  With  an  Intro- 
duction .  .  by  Thomas  Houston,  D.D.  Paisley.  1865. 
iv.,  9-290. 

AITCHISON,  SIR  CHARLES  U. 

Passages  in  the  Lives  of  Helen  Alexander  and  James  Currie. 
Printed  for  family  use.  1869.  By  Charles  U.  Aitchison, 
Her  Majesty's  Chief  Commissioner  in  British  Burmah,  a 
descendant. 

Helen  Alexander  says  that  she  was  "  married  in  the  year 
1687,  November  30th,  by  the  worthy  Mr  James  Renwick. 
When  Mr  Renwick  was  executed  I  went  and  saw  him  in 
prison ;  and  I  said  to  him :  '  Ye  will  get  the  white  robes,1 
and  he  said,  '  and  palms  in  my  hands.!  And  when  he  was 
execute  I  went  into  the  Grey-friars  yard,  and  I  took  him 
in  my  arms  till  his  clothes  were  taken  off,  and  I  helped 
to  wind  him  before  he  was  put  in  the  coffin." 

DODDS,  JAMES. 

Lays  of  the  Covenanters.  Edinburgh.  1880.  Renwick  in  the 
Cottage  of  John  Brown  of  Priesthill,  November,  1683.  (A 
sketch.)  p.  18.  Renwick's  Visit  to  the  Death-bed  of  Peden, 
February,  1686.  p.  200. 

WATSON,  JEAN  L. 

Life  and  Times  of  Rev.  A.  Peden  and  James  Renwick.  Glasgow. 
[1881.]  8vo. 

CARSLAW,  REV.  WILLIAM  H.,  D.D.,  Helensburgh. 

The  Life  and  Times  of  James  Renwick.  .  .  .  Edinburgh. 
1893.  8vo. 

Heroes  of  the  Covenant — James  Renwick.  [With  illustra- 
tions from  photographs  by  the  Rev.  Thomas  Kidd,  M.A., 
Moniaive.]  Paisley.  1900.  pp.  111. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY.  211 

RENWICK,  REV.  JAMES,  M.A.  (contd.). 
AIRD,  MARION  PAUL. 
Heart  Histories. 

Has  interesting  references  to  scenes  and  incidents  in  the 
life  of  James  Benwick. 

ALLAN,  ROBERT,  of  Kilbarchan. 

The  Covenanter's  Lament:  A  Song  of  the  Covenant.  In  "  The 
Book  of  Scottish  Song,"  edited  by  Alexander  Whitelaw. 
p.  109. 

Contains  the  line: — "  There's  nae  Renwick  now,  lassie." 

RIDDEL,  ROBERT,  of  Glenriddel. 

An  Account  of  the  Ancient  Lordship  of  Galloway.     4to.     1787. 
Collection  of  Music.     1787.     Price,  4s. 

A.  J.  Wighton  Coll,  Dundee  Public  Library. 
Waly,    Waly,    A    Favourite    Old    Scots    Song,    with     much 
Approved  of  Alterations  by  Robert  Riddell,  Esq.  of  Glen- 
riddell.     Price,  6d.     [Words  and  Music.]     N.D.,  4to.,  pp.  2. 
Dear  Bard,  to  ride  this  day  is  vain.     In  "  Works  of  Robert 
Burns,"  ed.  W.  Scott  Douglas,  1877.     II.,  199. 

ARCH^EOLOGIA  :  Society  of  Antiquaries  of  London. 

1789,  Vol.  IX.,  An  Account  of  the  Ancient  Lordship  of  Gallo- 
way, from  the  earliest  period  to  the  year  1455,  when  it  was 
annexed  to  the  Crown  of  Scotland,  p.  49.  Remarks  on 
the  title  Thane  and  Abthane.  p.  329.  (See  also  "  Archse- 
ologia  Scotica,"  I.,  185,  1792.) 

1792,  Vol.  X.,  Account  of  the  Ancient  Modes  of  Fortification 
in  Scotland,  p.  99.  Observations  on  Vitrified  Fortifica- 
tions in  Galloway,  p.  147.  Various  Pieces  of  Antiquity. 
p.  478. 

1794,  Vol.  XI.,  Some  Account  of  a  Symbol  of  Ancient  Investi- 
ture in  Scotland,  p.  45.  Account  of  a  Brass  Vessel  found 
near  Dumfries,  in  Scotland,  1790.  p.  105.  Notices  of 
Fonts  in  Scotland,  p.  106. 

Legendary  Fragments :  The  Bedesman  on  Nidsyde ;  Ye  mort 
o'  Lauch.  [Illustration  on  title  by  Captain  Grose.] 
London.  1790.  4to.  pp.  16. 

A  Dissertation  upon  the  Ancient  Carved  Stone  Monuments  in 
Scotland,  with  a  particular  Account  of  one  in  Dumfries- 
shire, by  Robert  Riddell  of  Glenriddell,  Esq.  [With  plate, 
after  Grose,  of  ancient  obelisk.  .  .  .  upon  the  banks  of 
the  Nith,  near  Thornhill,  in  Nithsdale.]  In  "  The  Memoirs 
of  the  Lit.  and  Phil.  Society  of  Manchester."  IV.,  131. 


212  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

EIDDEL,  ROBEHT,  of  Glenriddel  (contd.). 

An  Antiquity  cut  in  Ivory.  In  "  The  Gentleman's  Magazine," 
November,  1792.  LXIL,  981. 

A  Collection  of  Scotch,  Galwegian,  and  Border  Tunes.  .  .  . 
Price,  7s.  Edinburgh.  1794. 

A.    J.    Wighton    Coll,  Dundee    Public    Library,    several 
Pieces  by  R.  R. 

Notes  on  Scottish  Song  by  Robert  Burns  .  .  .  with  addi- 
tions by  R.  R.  and  others,  ed.  by  J.  C.  Dick.  8vo.  Lon- 
don. 1908. 

MS.  A  Collection  of  Scottish  Antiquities  selected  by  R.  R. 
In  at  least  eleven  volumes  whereof,  II. -IV.,  VI. -IX.,  and 
XI.,  ranging  from  1786  to  1791,  are  in  the  Library  of  the 
Society  of  Antiquaries  of  Scotland.  Copiously  illustrated 
by  original  drawings  and  prints,  some  by  and  after  Cap- 
tain Grose  and  Alexander  Reid.  Vol.  VII.,  includes  "  A 
Tour  in  Nithsdale,  1787,"  by  R.  R.,  in  three  parts,  with  an 
appendix;  "  An  Excursion  by  Doctor  Clapperton,  M.D.,  to 
Lough  Urr,  1787;  also  "  An  Old  Scottish  Ballad  called  The 
Bedesman  on  Nidsyde."  Vol.  VIII.  contains  "  A  Journal 
of  a  Tour  in  Scotland  in  1789,  made  by  Captain  Grose  and 
Captain  Riddell;  and  in  Vol.  XI.  is  "  A  Collection  of  Old 
Scottish  Ballads  "  generally  known  as  Glenriddell's  Ballad 
MS.  Folio. 

MS.  The  Antiquities  and  Topography  of  Nithsdale  by  Robert 
Riddell.  [With  drawings  of  views,  buildings,  and  antiqui- 
ties.] Folio. 

In  the  Library  of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries  of  London. 

MS.  [Ten  Letters  addressed  to  George  Paton,  Edinburgh, 
1787  and  after.  Paton's  Letters  in  Advocate's  Library.] 

MS.  The  Statistical  Account  of  Scotland,  1791-1799.  With 
MS.  notes  by  R.  R.  Volume  II.  missing. 

In  the  possession  of  H.  S.  Gladstone,  Esq.  of  Capenoch. 

BRIGHT,  HENRY  A. 

Some  Account  of  the  Glenriddell  MSS.  of  Burns's  Poems, 
with  several  Poems  never  before  published.  (Printed  for 
private  circulation.)  Liverpool.  1874.  Sm.  4to. 

IRVINE,  JAMES. 

Notice  of  Robert  Riddell  of  Glenriddell,  Esq.,  and  of  some  of 
his  manuscripts  and  books.  In  "  Proc.  of  the  Soc.  of  Ant.  of 
Scotland."  1868.  Vol.  VI.,  p.  451. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY.  213 

RIDDEL,  ROBERT,  of  Glenriddel  (contd.). 
RIDLON,  G.  T. 

History  of  the  Ancient  Ryedales  and  their  descendants  in 
Normandy,  Great  Britain,  Ireland,  and  America,  860  to 
1864,  comprising  the  Genealogy  and  Biography  of  the 
Families  of  Riddell,  Riddle,  Ridlon,  Ridley,  etc.  Manchester. 
N.H.  1884. 

SHAW,  JAMES. 

Moniaive.  In  "  A  Country  Schoolmaster,  James  Shaw."  ed. 
by  Robert  Wallace.  Edinburgh.  1899.  p.  37. 

SIMPSON,  REV.  RICHARD,  B.D.,  Dunscore. 

A  Contrast  in  Pre-Historic  Forts  near  Dunscore.  In  "  Trans. 
D.  and  G.  N.  H.  and  A.  Soc."  1901. 

SMITH,  REV.  WALTER  C.,  D.D. 

Borland  Hall.     Glasgow  and  London.     1874.     pp.  252. 
A  poem  written  in  Glencairn  and  full  of  local  colour. 

SMITH,  WILLIAM,  Banker,  Moniaive. 

Notes  of  a  Short  American  Tour.     Dumfries.     1873.     pp.  82. 
TELFER,  REV.  JOHN,  Glencairn  Free  Church. 

Your  Own  Salvation,  Philip  11,  12.     pp.  16.     4*  by  3*. 
The  Coming  Kingdom  of  God.     London,     pp.  x.,  134.     N.D. 
TODD,  REV.  ALEXANDER. 

Brief  Memorials  of  the  Rev.  Alexander  Todd,  Missionary  of 
the  Free  Church,  Madras,  and  latterly  minister  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  Hampden,  New  Zealand.  For  private 
circulation.  Edinburgh.  1888.  pp.  188. 

TROTTER,  ROBERT. 

Derwentwater :  Or  the  Adherants  of  King  James.  Edinburgh. 
1825. 

An  Appendix  contains  genealogical  notices  of  the  Corsons 
of  Dalwhat,  the  Cunninghams,  Smiths,  Barbours, 
M'Millans,  M'Gachens,  and  Crichtons. 

WILSON,  REV.  MR  [J.],  of  Tynron. 

Appendix,  No.  VII.  [Answers  to  queries.]  In  (l  General  View 
of  Agriculture  in  the  County  of  Dumfries,"  by  Dr  Singer, 
1812.  p.  335. 

WILSON,  J.  T.,  M.B.(Edin.),  Professor  of  Anatomy,  University  of 

Sydney. 

Innervation   of   Axillary   Muscles   in   Man,    1888    and    1889; 
Variation      in     Nerve-Supply,     Abnormal    Distribution    of 
Nerve,  1889.     Rep.  from  the  Jour,  of  Anat.  and  Physio. 
Series  of  Varieties  in  Human  Anatomy.     1892, 


214  THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 

WILSON,  J.  T.,  M.B.(Edin.)  (contd.). 

On  the  Closure  of  the  Central  Canal  of  the  Spinal  Cord  in 

the  Foetal  Lamb.     1892. 
On  the  Myology  of   Notoryctes   Typhlops,    with  comparative 

notes.     [Numerous  plates.]     pp.  74.     1893. 
Observations   upon  the  Development   and  Succession    of   the 

Teeth  in  Perameles,  together  with  a  Contribution  to  the 

Discussion   of  the   Homologies  of  the  Teeth   in   Marsupial 

Animals.     Rep.  from  The  Quart.  Jour,  of  Micros.  Sci.     1896. 
Observations  on  Ornithorhynchus.     Proc.  of  the  Linn.  Soc.  of 

N.  S.  W.    1894. 
Notes  on  the  Innervation  of  the  Musculus  Sternalis.     Rep. 

from  the  Interna.  Med.  Jour,  of  Australasia.     1897. 
Presidential  Addresses,  1898  and  1899.     On  the  Skeleton  of 

the  Snout     ...     of  the  Mammary  Foetus  of  Monotremes. 

1900  and  1902.     From  the  Proc.  of  the  Lin.  Soc.  of  N.  S.  W. 
A  new  system  of  obtaining  directing-marks  in  microscopical 

sections     for     purposes     of     reconstruction     by     wax-plate 

modelling.     1900. 
Ideals  in  Medical  Education.     Rep.  from  the  Intercol.  Med. 

Jour,  of  Australasia.     Melbourne.     1901.     pp.  27. 
Observations  on  the  Development  of  Ornithorhynchus.     By  J. 

T.  Wilson,  M.B.,   and  J.   P.  Hill,  D.Sc.     From  the  Proc. 

of  the  Royal  Soc.     1903  and  1907. 
Two  cases  of  fourth  molar  teeth  in  the  skulls  of  an  Australian 

aboriginal  and  a  New  Caledonian.     1905.     Anatomy  of  the 

Calamus  Region  in  the  Human  Bulb;  Fate  of  the  "  Taenia 

Clino-Orbitalis "   (Gaupp).     Parts  I.  and  II.     1906.     From 

the  Jour,  of  Anat.  and  Physiol. 

The  Historical  Development  of  the  Problem  of  the  Circulation 

of  the  Blood.     1906.     pp.  11. 
Observations  on  Tooth-Development  in  Ornithorhynchus.     By 

J.  T.  Wilson  and  J.  P.  Hill.     Rep.  from  The  Quar.  Jour. 

of  Micros.  Sci.     1907. 


215 


INDEX. 


Agriculture,  2-3,  132-5,  137-40, 

170. 

Amusements,  144,  172-3. 
Angling,  2. 
Animals,  extinct,  11,  18. 

—  existing,  25  179-85. 
Antiquities,  10-1,  18-30. 
Archery,  25-6. 
Area  of  parish,  1. 
Ayr  Street,  53,  117,  158-9. 


Bad  brass,  81-2. 
Balmaclellan,  1,  19,  55,  62. 
Basket-making,  136. 
Beggar  Raw,  158,  159-60. 
Bennet,  William,  116-7,  197-8. 
Bibliography,  197-214. 
Birds,  1,  11,  180-4. 
Birth-feast,  145. 
Black,   Rev.   William,   5,   157, 

198. 
Blackader,     Rev.    John,     112, 

156,  165. 

—  Lieut. -Colonel    John,     95, 
112-3,  177,  198. 

—  Adam,      at     the     Village 
Cross,  156-7. 

"  Bonnie  Annie  Laurie,"  101, 
106-8,  112,  128,  175. 

—  marriage,  101,  106. 

—  will,  108. 

—  resting-place,  107-8. 

—  original    version   of   song, 
107. 

"Borland  Hall,"  7,  166. 
Borrowman,      Rev.      Patrick, 

46,  51-3,  165,  198. 
Boston,  Rev.  Thomas,  165. 
Boundaries,  parish,  1. 
Bow-Butts  of  Ingleston,  25-6. 
Bowling,  Carpet,  173. 
Bowling  Green,  173. 
Bridges,  161. 


"  Broose,  riding  for  the,"  145. 
Brown,  Rev.  John,  198. 
Brougham,  Lord,  at  Moniaive, 

164. 

Bruce,  King  Robert  the,  130-1. 
Buccleuch,  Duke  of,  47,  158. 
Burgh  of  Barony,  Moniaive  as, 

149-55. 
Burns,  Robert,  connection  with 

Glencairn,   127-31. 
-  friendly      relations      with 

Earl  of  Glencairn,  131. 

—  local    subject    for    drama, 
129-30. 

—  quoted,  127,  128,  129,  131, 
143,  144. 

—  referred  to,  75,  101,  114, 
115,  172,  198-9. 

—  and  parish  libraries,  80. 


Cairn  river,  2,  5-6,  107-8. 
Cairns,  1,  10,  28. 
Caitloch,  4,   64,  65,   103,   162, 
165. 

-  Cave,  3-4. 
Camden,  7. 
Camps,  10,  22. 

-  Castlehill,  23-4. 
—  Snade,  22-3. 

Candle-making,    136. 
"  Carlyle,  Jupiter,"  81. 

-  Thomas,  166. 
Castlefairn,    2,    38,    55,    85-6, 

162. 

Cattle,  Ayrshire,  137-8. 

-  Galloway,  2,  138. 

-  Droving  of,  134-5. 
Causeway,  158-9. 

Chapel,  site  of  St.  Cuthbert's, 

38. 

Chapel  Street,  158-9. 
Characters,    village,    167-8. 
Charles  I.,  149, 


216 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRK. 


Charms,  use  of,  145. 
Charter,  Moniaive,  149-52. 

—  Translation  of,  152-5. 
Choral  Society,  173. 
Christianity,    introduction    of, 

38. 
Church  bell,  47-8.  79-80. 

-  collections,  74-6,  81-2. 

—  discipline,  72,  76-7. 

—  finance,    37,   40-2,    44,    47, 
73-82. 

Churchyard,      Glencairn,      49, 
60-62,  105,  107,  114. 

—  Tynron,  57-8. 
Claverhouse,  56-7,  101. 
Clergy,  Catholic,  40-2. 
Clerk,  Alexander,  114-5,  199. 
Climate,  3,  176. 

Cloan,   The,   11,   24,   26-7,   43, 

101,  162. 

Clothing,  79,  140,  141-2. 
Clubs,  172-3. 
Coal,  3,  79. 

Cockburn,  Lord,  visit  of,  163-4. 
Common,  160-1. 
Communions,  75,  80,  142. 
Conventicles,  54,  67-69. 
Coopering,  136. 
"Course,  The,"  160-1. 
Covenanters,  54-71. 

—  general  list  of,  63-65. 

—  Bennoch,  James,  59-60. 

—  Edgar,  Robert,  59-62. 

—  Grierson,  Robert,  59-62. 

—  M'Cubin,  Alexander,  64-65, 
70-71. 

—  M'Ewan,  Samuel,  65,  70. 

-  M'Michael,  Daniel,  65,  70. 

—  Mitchell,  Robert,  59,  62. 

—  Renwick,     James,     62-63, 
65-70,  71. 

-  Smith,  William,  57-8. 
Cowgate,  158,  160. 
Craigdarroch,  2,  5,  13,  28,  30, 

85-6,  92-5,  96-9,  100-3,  106, 

108,  110,  131,  148. 
Craigengillan  Coach,  162-3. 
Crawfordton,     1,     3,     13,     26, 

27-8,  32,  34,  40,  58,  134, 

138,  139. 


Crichton,      family      of,       110, 
149-50,  153,  155-6. 

—  Andrew,  112. 

—  Ninian,  80. 
Cricket  Club,  173. 

Cross,  Market,  151,  154,  156-7, 

159. 
Cuningham,   family  of,   6,   43, 

103-5,  131,  202. 
Curling  Clubs,  172-3. 
Customs,  144-5. 


Dairy  farming,  138. 
Dairy,  Galloway,  1,  39,  88. 
—  Rising  at,  55. 
Dalwhat,  2,  4,  5-6,  10-1,  23,  32, 

35,  36,  85,  94,  95,  130,  148, 

159,  161,  162,  167. 
Dalziel,  John,  122-3. 
Danyelstoun,    family   of,    103, 

110. 

David  I.,  39-40. 
Deans,  Mrs  Charlotte,  164-5. 
Disruption,  The,  of  1843,  51-2, 

116,  119. 

Doon  of  Shancastle,  27. 
Drainage,  177. 
Dress,  140,  141-2. 
Dressmakers,  142. 
Drinking  in  Ale-houses,  72. 
Dumfries,   55-6,   64,   90,   95-8, 

149-55,  162-3. 

Dunlop,  Rev.  Walter,  165. 
Dunreggan,   4,   5,    14,   33,   35, 

40,  52,  148,  158,  160. 
Dunscore,   1,   19,   80,  81,   127, 

134,  135,  163. 


Earls    of     Glencairn,     6,     43, 

103-5,  131. 
Earthwork,  at  Birkshaw,  24. 

—  at  Loch  Urr,  21. 
Ecclesiastical  History — 

—  pre-Reformation,  39-43. 

—  post-Reformation,      44-82, 

83. 

Edinburgh,  63,  68-9,  149,  155. 
Education,  83-91. 


INDEX. 


217 


Edward  II.,  40. 
Embroidery,  muslin,  135. 


Fairs,  154,  159. 
Families,  notable,  100-11. 
Farming,  early,  132-5. 

-  modern,  1.  2-3,  137-40. 
Fauna,  179-85. 

Fences,  133. 

Fergussons    of     Craigdarroch, 

32-3,  74,  92-9,  100-3,  110, 

127-129,  155,  161,  164,  172, 

200. 
Fergusson,   William,    of    Cait- 

loch,  64,  103. 

-  Robert,  64,  101. 
Ferns,  192-3. 
Festivals,  144,  159. 

Field  -  preaching.  See  Con- 
venticles. 

Fines,  for  Nonconformity,  54, 
64. 

-  imposed    by    Kirk-Session, 
76-7. 

"First  Book  of  Discipline," 
83. 

Fisher,  James,  113-4,  201. 

Flax,  cultivation  of,  133. 
—  manufacture  of,  133-4. 

Flood,  high,  76. 

Flora,  186-93. 

Folklore,  72,  131,  144-5. 

Food,  73,  79,  95,  140,  142,  144. 

Forest,  early,  4. 

Forts,  10,  22,  27. 

France,  Rev.  W.,  118,  201-2. 

Free  Church  of  Scotland,  Glen- 
cairn,  51-3,  124. 

-  School,  52-3,  91. 
Freemason  Lodge,  172. 
Fuel,   3,   79,   143-4. 
Funerals,  73,  145. 
Furniture,  141. 


Gaelic,  1,  11. 

Gas,  introduced,  169. 

Geology,  3. 


Gibson,  family  of,  64,  74,  77, 

94,  109-10,  200. 
Glasgow,  See  of,  39-42. 
Glencairn,  Castle  of,  6-7. 

—  Church  of,  6,  38-50,  54-5, 
72-82,  83-4,  85-6,  107. 

-  Earls  of.    See  Cuningham. 

-  name,  1. 

Glens,   2,   4,   5-6,   7-9,    11,   14, 

38-9,  85-6,  148,  161-3,  167. 
Golf  Club,  173. 
Gordon,    Rev.    Robert,    D.D., 

115-6,  177,  203. 
Graham,  John,  of  Claverhouse. 

56. 

Grains,  Road,  160. 
Grierson,    Rev.    Alex.,    119-20, 

204. 

—  Bursary,  88-90. 

—  Museum,  28-9. 

—  Rev.  William,  3,  46,   139. 
204. 

Grose,  the  antiquary,  25,  156, 
204. 


"  Harn  "(coarse   linen)  shirts, 
134. 

Health,  of  parish,  3,  169. 
Hearse,  79,  81. 

Heather,     limited     occurrence 
of,  1. 

Heritors,  77,  83-8,  90. 
High  Street.  113,  158-9. 
Hills,  1-2,  7-9,  11-16,  23-4,  27, 

?8,  43,  148-9,  162,  167. 
Hogig,  James,  165. 
Horticultural  Society,  172. 
Houses,  140,  141,  169,  176-7. 
Husbandry.     See  Agriculture. 
Hyslop,  John,  120-1,  204. 

Industries,  past,  132-7. 

-  present,  137-40. 
Infirmary,  collections  for,   76. 
Inglis,   Rev.   John,   117-8. 
Ingleston,  Bow-butts  of,  25. 

-  martyrs  of,  59-60. 
Interest  on  loans,  78. 


218 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 


Jackmen,  6. 

James   IV.,    visits   Glencairn, 

43. 

Jarbruck,  Mote  of,  25-6. 
Jougs,  157. 


Keir,  1,  94,  110. 

Kettle  Entry,  158,  160. 

Kings,  39-40,  43,  71,  75,  92, 
103,  104.  106,  130-1, 
149-50,  152. 

Kirkland,  86,  116,  165. 

Kirk-Session  Records,  45,  48, 
72-82,  83,  90,  157-8,  173. 

Kirk  Treasurer's  Book,  48, 
73-82. 

Knights  Templars,  in  Glen- 
cairn,  17,  40. 

Knitting,  135. 

Knox,  John,  83. 


Laurie,  family  of,  7,  57-8,  64, 
74,  77,  86,  88,  97,  105-6, 
108-9,  172.  204-5. 
—  Bonnie  Annie,  106-8,  112, 
128,  175. 

Language,  10-17. 

Lead,  3. 

Leases,  139. 

Liberality,    74-6,    77-8,    78-9. 

Libraries,  80,  171. 

Lighting,  143,  169. 

Lime,  use  of,  132-3. 

Lint.     See  Flax. 

Living,    mode   of,    140,    141-3, 
169. 

Loch  Urr,  crannog  and  earth- 
work, 19-22. 

Locomotion,   means  of,    162-4, 
175-6. 


Market  Cross,  Moniaive,  151, 
154,  156-7. 

—  Sanquhar,  68. 
Marriages,  44,  72-3,  76-7,  145. 
Maps,  4-5,  6  (footnote),  12-7, 

—  —  .     '—  I  , 

Martyr  Stones,  57-63. 

Mazzini,  Joseph,  quoted,  178. 

Mill  Raw,  158-9. 

Minerals,  3. 

Ministers,  references  to,  23-4, 
25,  44-7,  51-3,  54,  64,  71, 
83,  87,  94-5,  99,  139-40, 
164,  165-6,  170,  198, 
200-10,  212-3. 

Money-lending,  78. 

Moniaive,    meaning    of    name, 

16,  148-9. 
—  changes  in  spelling,  157-8. 

-  made  a  Burgh  of  Barony, 
149-55. 

-  in  1790,  156. 

—  Fairs,  151,  154,  159. 
Monteith,  Rev.  John,  23-4,  25, 

46-7,  164,  170,  206. 
Moodie,  Rev.  W.,  45,  99. 
Mortcloth,  use  of,  78. 
Motes,  24-6,  162. 
Mutual  Improvement  Society, 

171. 


Nail-making,   136. 

Names,  changes  in,  1,  5,  10-17, 

148-9,  157-60. 
Nursing  Association,  173. 


Old  Age  Pensions,  175. 
Organs,  Church,  49,  52. 
Outlook,  176-8. 
Owners  of  land,  5-7,  100-11. 


Mackill,  Robert,  52,  124. 
M'Gachen,   family  of,   6,   94, 

110,  130. 

M'Turk,  Robert,  205-6. 
Manses,  50,  51,  52. 


Parish,  aspect  of,  to-day,  1-4, 

7-9,  170-8. 

Parish  Council,  170-1. 
Park,  Rev.  John,  D.D.,  206. 
Paterson,  James,  R.S.A.,  xii., 

166-7,  206. 


INDEX. 


219 


Paton,  Walter,  121-2. 
Peat,  occurrence  of,  143. 

—  cutting    of,     as     a     fuel, 
143-4. 

Peden,  Rev.  Alexander,  68. 
Penpont,  27,  43,  94,  127,  164, 
175. 

—  Presbytery    of,  83,  89-90, 
92,  100. 

—  Dumfries      and,      United 
Free    Church    Presbytery 
of,  53. 

People,  improved  condition  of, 

140. 

Pigs,  rearing  of,  138. 
Place-names,  10-17,  157-8. 
Poetry,    7-8,    9,    71,    107,   114, 

115,  120-1,  127,  131,  143, 

144,  166. 

Pollock,  Rev.  John,  207. 
Pont,  Timothy,  4,  12-7. 
Poor,  casual,  88. 

-  parish,  73,  77-9. 
Popes,  39,  43. 
Population,  4-5,  169-70. 
Post  Office,  173-5. 
Poultry,  138-9. 
Prince  Charlie,  97-9. 
Progress,  social  and  religious, 

4,  10-1,  18-9,  38-9,  43,  44, 

71,  80,  83-91,  132,  138-40, 

141-7,  149-55,  157,  158-60, 

161-3,  169,  171-8. 
Proverbs     and    sayings,    135, 

145-7,  160,  167-8. 
Public   Buildings,   47,   50,   53, 

173. 
Public  Park,  173. 


Querns,  29,  30. 


Races,  early,  10-11,  149. 
Race-muir,  57,  160-1. 

Rae,  Rev.  Peter,  3,  27,  92-3, 
161. 

Railway,  163,  175-6. 


Rattan  Raw,  159. 

Reader,  in  Glencairn  Kirk,  44. 

Reading  Room,  171. 

Rebels   at  the  horn,   64,    100, 
105. 

Rebellions,     1715     and     1745, 

92-6,  96-9,  101. 
Recreations,   144-5,  172-3. 
Red  Deer,  18,  30. 
Reformation,      The     Scottish, 

43-4,  47,  104. 
Reformers,  43,  104. 
Relics,  portable,  28-30,  149. 
Rental  of  parish,  31-7,  170. 
Renwick,    Rev.    James,    62-3, 
65-70,  71,  112,  177. 

—  traces    of    birthplace,    65, 
160. 

—  parentage,  65-66. 

—  as  a  student,  66. 

—  his    resolve    to     join     the 
Covenanters,  66. 

-  visit  to  Holland,  66. 

—  return  to  Scotland,  66. 

—  beginning      of      ministry, 
66-67. 

—  declared  an  outlaw,  67. 

—  extent    and   hardships   of 
his  labours,  67-68. 

—  affixes  Declaration  to  San- 
quhar  Cross,  68. 

—  attitude  to  toleration,  68. 

—  arrest  and  trial,  69. 

—  terms  of  indictment,  69. 

—  condemnation,  69. 

—  refusal  to  recant,  69. 

—  last  words  and  execution, 

69-70. 

—  place  of  burial,  62. 

—  monument  to,  62-63,  177. 

-  Bibliography,  207-10. 
Riddell  (or  Riddel),  family  of, 

97,  98,  110,  127-9,  211-2. 
Riddles,  as  a  pastime,  144. 
"  Riding  for  the  broose,"  145. 
Roadways,  changes  in,  50,  65, 

161-2. 
"  Rob  Macquechan's  Elshon," 

129-30. 


220 


THE  ANNALS  OF  GLENCAIRN. 


Romans,  presence  of  the,  10, 

22,  23-4,  149. 

Rorison,  family  of,  110,  155-6. 
Bullion  Green,  battle  of,  55. 


Sabbath-breaking,  72. 
St.  Cuthbert,  38-9,  49. 
Scenery,  1-2,  4,  7-9,  148-9, 

163-4,  166,  175. 
School  Board,  88-9. 

Schools      and     Schoolmasters, 

52.-3,  83-8,  90-1. 
Scleners    or    Schlenders,  The, 

16,  65,  158. 
Selgovse,  10. 
Shancastle,  Boon  of,  27. 
Shaw,  James,  115,  212. 
Sheep,  2-3,  137. 
Sibbald  MSS.,  5,  157. 
Simpson,     Rev.    Richard,    22, 

212. 

Slate  quarrying,  136. 
Smith,  Rev.  Walter  C.,  D.D., 

7-8,  149,  166,  212. 
Societies,  171-2,  173. 
Springs,  mineral,  3. 
Statistical  Accounts,  7,  19,  84, 

87,  139-40. 

Stenters,  The,  158,  160. 
Stone,  al  Ingleston,  59. 

—  at  "  Minnyhive  Moss,"  57. 

—  in   wall   of   Free   Church, 
52. 

—  in  Churchyard  wall,  49. 
Streams,  2,  4,  5-8,  18,  22,  50, 

76,  85-6,  107-8,  130,  148-9, 
161,  164. 
Street  names,  158-60. 


Temperance  Society,  173. 
Tent,  Communion,  80. 
Thatching,  136,  169. 
Thornfiill,  50,  163-4,  175. 


Throughgate,  The,  158-9. 
Todd,  Rev.  Alexander,    123-4 

213. 

Tokens,  Church,  48,  50-1. 
Towers,  fortified,  27-8. 
Trees.     See  Woods. 

—  List  of  finest,  194-6. 
Turner,  Sir  James,  55,  101. 
Tynron,  1,  57-8,  72,  94,  95,  116, 

127,  162,  172. 


United    Presbyterian    Church, 

50-1,  53,  162. 
Urn,  cinerary,  1. 


Vagrancy,  73,  88. 
Valuation  of  parish,  31-7,  170 
Views,  finest,  2,  4,  50,  107-8 

148-9,  163-4,  175,  177. 
Visitors,    distinguished,    38-9 

43,  127,  130-1,  163-6. 

Wages,  139-40,  142. 
Walker,   Col.    Sir   George   G. 

124-5,  173. 

Water-channelling,    159,    169. 
Waters.     See  Streams. 
Water  supply,  169. 
Waulk  Mill,  1,  160. 
Weaving,  136-7,   160. 
Wells,  169. 

"Whistle,  The,"  101,  127-8. 
"  White  ground,"  1-2. 
Wild  Ox,  18.  *"• 

"Willie     brewed    a    peck    o 

maut,"  129. 
Witchcraft,  72,  145. 
Woods,  2,  4,  8,  163-4. 
Wordsworth,  quoted,  9. 
Worthies,  village,  165,  167-8. 


Yew  trees,  large,  196. 


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