Glimpses of West Africa, with sketches of missionary labor

^ PRINCETON, N. J.

Purchased by the Hammill Missionary Fund.

DT 471 .W54 1866 >,

Whiton, Samuel J.
Glimpses of West Africa

Nimibci

Digitized by tine Internet Arcliive
in 2015

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i

GLIMPSES

OF

West Africa.

WITH

SKETCHES OF MISSIONARY LABOR.

REV. SAMUEL J. WHITON.

AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY,

150 NASSAU STREET, NEW YORK.

Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year ISSS, by
THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY,
la the Clerk's Office of the District Coai-t of tlie District of Massacliujct

P 11 E F A C E .

The larger j)ortion of the following pages was
written cluriiig odd moments, snatched from the
])ressing cares and labors of a missionary life in
West Africa. The remainder has been prepared
since failing health compelled my return to Amer-
ica.

This little volume does not profess to be an ex-
haustive "or scientific treatise on West Afiica, but
merel}' to gWc a few glimpses of that strange, wild
land, and its degraded inhabitants, — such as I have
been able to gather during my missionary residence
;;ud travels there.

These chapters rcla!:e mostly to the country and
tribes in the vicinity of the Mexdi ]Missiox, be-
tween six and eight degrees north latitude. Other
parts of the coast differ, ^^erhaps, in some respects,
though the general features are much the same.

If these pages shall arouse in any heart a deeper
interest in Africa and the missionary "work there,
the autlior will feel that he has not labored in vain.

S. J. AV.

AVestfobd, Cosn.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE I.
The Country page 5

CHAPTER II.
Climate, Fevers, Tornadoes 14

CHAPTEE III.
Productions, Travelling, Canoes — 30

CHAPTEE IV.

Towns, Houses, Manufactures- 58

CHAPTEE V.

The People, Dress, Language, Food 75

CHAPTEE VI.
Habits, Superstition 94

CHAPTEE VII.
Witchcraft, the Furrow, Cries, etc. 112

CHAPTEE VIII.

Government, Palavers, War, Slavery 123

CHAPTEE IX.
The Work of Missions 132

CHAPTEE X.

Wayside Teachings 139

CHAPTEE XI.
Sabbath Labors 149

CHAPTEE XII.
A Missionary Tour - 161

CHAPTEE XIII.
Sierra Leone 181

GLIMPSES OP WEST AFEICA.

CHAPTER I.

THE COUNTRY.

Ex\JlS ago, in a brown school-house, thou-
sands of miles distant among New Eng-
land hills, I well remember how we used
to gaze at the map of Africa, and what a
mystery seemed to surround it. Here and there
along the coast, rivers and towns were marked
down, but the interior was one vast blank. A
vail of impenetrable darkness concealed it, and
the few remarks that were given only made it
appear wilder and moi'e mysterious. Asia and
the islands of the sea were looked at in a dif-
ferent light, for much more was known con-
cerning them. Since then, great progress ias
been made in the exploration of Africa. Liv-

5

6

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

iugstoue has penetrated the jungles and kraals
of the south ; Krapf and Burton and Spoke
have journeyed far inland from the cast ; Barth
and Gerard, from the north, have visited and
explored countries before unknown ; and other
venturesome travelers have passed through re-
gions rich and beautiful as Eden, and teeming
with inhabitants. But there are yet immense
stretches of country where the foot of white
man never trod. Africa is still a wild, myste-
rious land. Its lofty mountains rise in silent
grandeur, seen only by the dusky heathen. Its
silvery lakes repose in beauty, disturbed by
naught save the light canoe. Its majestic riv-
ers roll down luxuriant valleys, where no sound
is heard but the wild song or fierce war-cry of
untamed men. Its crowded towns and villages
are the scenes of many horrid customs and
cruelties. The tropic sun looks down upon a
region where nature spreads her rarest beau-
ties ; but over all, like a pall of death, rests tlio
cloud of heathenism.

No country in the world affords a grander
field for missionary enterprise tiian Africa. It

THE couxmr.

7

stretches through seveuty-ouo degrees of loagl-
tude, and scveuty-two of hxtit-ude. Its popu-
lation is estimated to be two liuudrcd millions,
but very few of whom can be called even nom-
inal Christians. Nearly all ar i heathens or Mo-
hammedans. It is ^truc that great difficulties
lie in the way of christianizing Africa. An
enfeebling climate, wild beasts and wilder men,
toils, sufferings, privations, disappointments,
and deatii itself, — these the missionary must
expect to meet. But God's commands are im-
perative. " Go ye into all the world, and
preach the gospel to every creature." He did
not say, Go to the pleasantest spot you can find,
go where it is very healthy, — ah, no! "The
soul that sinneth, it shall die," was as surely
spoken of the benighted millions of Africa as
f those of more salubrious climes. These mil-
foils must not be left to perisli in darkness.
Africa viust he redeemed, though thousands shall
fall in tlie holy work. The sweet story of the
cross must be repeated from hill-top to hill-top,
and from valley to valley, till her sons and
daughters shall sit at Jesus' feet, clothed and

8

GLIMPSES OF WEST AEItlCA.

in their right mind. Paul faced perils un-
numbered, shrank not from death itself, gloried
in his crosses, and was willing to become all
things to all men that he might save some ; and
so should the church of to-day lay its all at the
Saviour's feet, and, asking not why or where-
fore, go forward in the simple path of duty.

The very name of West Africa carries an
indefinable feeling of half-dread to many a
heart. So much has been said of its deadly
climate, and so many have early fallen on the
coast, that some good men have been ready to
advise the abandonment of the field, and the
concentration of forces in a more favored spot.
The country is doubtless unhealthy, and of
many an ardent young missionary it might be
truly written, —

" He, the young and strong, who clierished
Noble longings for the strife.
By the waysiJe fell and perished.
On the threshold march of life."

But it should be remembered that not one has
fallen in vain. Being dead, they yet speak.
Prom their lonely graves beneath the palm and

THE COUNTRY.

9

cocoa go forth potent voices, speaking of a life
of toil and suffering, and an early death in a
foreign land, for what ? — for the privilege of
telling of Clirist to those who sit in darkness
and the sliadow of death. The eye of Him who
notes even a falling sparrow never overlooks the
herald of the cross. And besides, the unhealthi-
ncss of the coast is often exaggerated. Many are
able to live and labor here for years. It is with
the hope of awakening in some heart a deeper
interest in West Africa and its perishing thou-
sands, that these few sketches of the country
and people are written.

Bishop Heber, in that beautiful hymn that
has become the rallying cry of missions, sings
of the land, —

" 'Wbei-e Afric's sunny fountains
Roll down their golden sand."

West Africa is truly a sunny land, and na-
ture has done much to make it lovely to the
eye. To the traveler, approaching the coast
after tossing for weeks or months on the bois-

10

CLIMPSES OF WKST AFRICA.

torous ocean, it seems almost a paradise. Here
and there the mountains jut boldly down to the
shore, covered with the wealth of tropic vcge-
latio:i ; and anon there is a level line of coast,
oa which the graceful palms stand like senti-
nels against a background of softly-tinted slcy,
while the blue hills rise dimly in the distance.
The quaint villages, v/ith their brown walls and
thatched roofs, repose amid groves of orange
and cocoa, surrounded by little patches of cul-
tivated ground. Now and then green iilanda
lie like gems in the smooth sea. Gorgeous
flowers, of all the hues of the rainbow, bloom
on tiie hill-sides and in the valleys. And over
all rests the full, rich light of the tropic sun,
making cverj^thing seem yet more beautiful.
No wonder that the new-comer, standing on the
deck of an in-bound vessel, and gazing on all
this loveliness, feels his heart glow with rap-
ture.

"West African scenery, as a general rule, looks
best at a distance. Wlien the traveler walks
among the hills g,nd valleys that looked so fairy-
like from the sea, he finds a dense growth of

THE couxtht.

11

bushes, and tall, rank grass and weeds, tlirongli
which it is often difficult to force his way, and
which hides tlie prospect beyond. Poisonous
snakes crawl through the jungles. Some of the
gayest flowers have no fragrance. At places,
the air is laden with miasma. But uotvrith-
standing this, there is much to charm the senses.
Tlic idea suggested to the mind is that nature
has been prodigal of her gifts, everything is so
rich, so gorgeous, so abundant : —

" A world of wonder, where creation seems
No more the works of Nature, but her dreams;
Great, wild and beautiful, bej'ond control,
She reigns in all the freedom of her soul.
Where none can check her bounty when she showers
O'er the gay wilderness her fruits and flowers."

Much of the country bordering on the sea is
low and swampy. Tlie banks of the rivers,
near their mouths, are lined with the man-
groves, which vary in size from a bush to trees
a foot and a half in diameter. Tlio roots
branch out several feet from the surface of the
earth, and, interlacing with each other, form an
impenetrable net-work. The mangroves are

12 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

uevei* found beyond the reach of salt water.
Some of the land is so low as to be overflowed
during the rains, and other parts arc elevated
and capable of cultivation through the whole
year. Native villages are scattered all over the
lowlands, and a few foreign traders have estab-
lished themselves in the healthier localities. A
few miles from the sea, the country is more
broken and hilly, and the scenery more varied.
There are vast forests of lofty trees, so dense
that the missionary can walk through them at
noon-day without feeling the heat of the vertical
sun. Clear sparkling brooks go rippling along
their pebbly beds, furnishing delicious drink
for the weary traveler. The towns are largci*
and better built, and the people more intelli-
gent. A trip among the hills is full of inter-
est and adventure, and gives one an insight
into African life that could not be gained by
a residence of years on the coast.

West Africa is rich in large rivers, v.'hicli
di-ain the vast interior regions ; but scarcely
one has been explored to its source. They are
thickly lined with populous towns, and the

THE COUXTJIY.

13

scenery is often enchanting. Giant cotton-trees
tower towards the sky, the palm, cocoa and oi-
angc arc abundant, and flowering vines and
shrubs line the banks. As the missionary
journeys up and down these rivers, telling of
Jesus in town and village, scarcely a sign of civ-
ilization meets his eye. The light log canoe
of the native skims over the smooth water, and
sometimes the heavier boat of a trader, laden
"with palm-oil or rice, glides slowly along, pro-
pelled by half-naked oarsmen. Amid all the
beauties of the scenery, however, there is al-
ways enough of heathenism visible to sadden
the heart.

CHAPTER II.

CLIMATE — FEVERS — TORNADOES.

EST Africa is a land of everlasting sum-
mer. The forests never lose their roLes
g'^cen. The flowers arc forever bud-
ding and blooming. No cold winds ever
sweep over its hills and valleys. The torrid
sun, day by day and year after year, pours down
its fierce rays, except when obscured by clouds.
The heat is often very intense, the mercury
rising above ninety degrees in tlie coolest part
of the house. It seldom falls below seventy-
five degrees ; thus making the temperature quite
even. There is usually a light breeze, which
tempers the heat of the sun. The nights are
sometimes so warm, and mosquitoes so abun-
dant, that it is difficult to sleep. It is danger-
ous for foreigners to expose themselves to a

CUM All:, rriKus, ron.\Ai)0::s.

].')

nooii-uay sun without some protection from its
rays ; but the natives will work all day with
uncovered heads, or sleep out of doors, with the
utmost impunity. The want of cold water is
severely felt by those coming from higher lati-
tudes. Often, wdien the fever has been burn-
ing in my veins, have I felt that I would give
almost anything for a cup of water from the
mossy well of the old New England homestead.
Much of the water on the West African coast
is impure, and has an unpleasant taste, though
there are some clear, sparkling springs.

Every one notices the absence of twilight in
Africa. Those beautiful, dreamy hours of more
northern lands are unknown here. When the
sun sets the night shadov/s gather thickly and
rapidly, and soon there is no sign of day in the
west. But the nights are often extremely
beautiful. The air is soft and mild, and the
moon shines with a fuller, richer light than at
home. The following extracts from my journal
will show, more clearly perhaps than I other-
wise can, the beauty of these nights : —

" Last evening as I stood at our wharf, lis-

IG GLIMI'SES OF ll'ESr AFPICA.

toning to the sound of distant oars, it scorned
that never before had I seen anything so strange-
ly lovely. Above stretched the heavens, un-
commonly blue and clear, and dotted with
sparkling stars. The tropic moon thrcv/ a
flood of magic light on the green islands and
palm-lined shore ; the river lay before me blue
and motionless, save as its faint ripples broke
on tho white sand at my feet ; the heavy thun-
der of the breakers at Sea Bar, ten miles dis-
tant, came to my ear, mingled with wild
snatches of song from a heathen village near
by. How true are those lines by Bishop He-
ber : —

' Every prospect pleases,
And only man is vile.' "

" Friday morning, at two o'clock, we left
Good Hope for Avery station. It was clear
and still, and the moon shone brightly as
we gave tho parting hand to our friends and
glided out on the smooth waters of the Sherbro.
The sky was a deep bluo, with white, fleecy
clouds floating through it. No sound broke the
silence save the low voices of our men and tho

CLIMATE. FEVEllS, TOIWADOES.

17

measured dip of their oars, which sparkled in
the moonliglit as they rose and fell. The day
broke gloriously just after we entered the Bar-
groo river : — first a faint tinge of light under-
ncatli the morning star ; then a few crimson
streaks creeping up the eastern sky ; next a
blending of the softest, most wondrous hues
stretching well-nigh to the zenith ; and fmally
the majestic king of day riding up the heavens
from behind the far-off hills, and reflecting his
beams in the calm river along which we were
gliding."

Some regard the night air of Africa as almost
fatal to foreigners, but I doubt whether the
opinion is correct. I have journeyed and slept
in open boats on the rivers of this coast at all
hours of the night, and was never conscious of
any ill effects from the exposure. We always
aim, however, to keep at a distance from the
miasma-breeding lowlands.

There are hut two seasons in West Africa,- —
the " dries " and the "rains." They each last for
about six months. At the beginning and end
tbcy are so blended together that it is difficult

J8

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

to fix upon a dividing point. The rainy sea-
son begins dnring the spring months, and the
dry season in autnmn, though on different parts
of the coast the time varies widely ; and even
in tlie' same place, like northern winters, it is
sometimes earlier and sometimes later. The
rains commence at the south, and pass up the
coast. During their prevalence vegetation
thrives luxuriantly. The forests are covered
•with the densest foliage. Grass, weeds and
bushes become rank and tall. Leaves sprout out
as if by magic, and grow with astonishing ra-
pidity. Each particle of soil is covered with a
mantle of living green, and it requires much
labor to keep foot-paths cleared. The swamps
and lowlands are flooded vath water, but the
highlands are so porous that walking is tolera-
ble immediately after the most violent showers.

The quantity of rain which falls is immense,
sometimes averaging more than an inch a day
for three successive months. It falls, too, with
a rapidity exceeding the storms of the United
States. The rains, however, are not so constant
as many are led to believe. Sometimes they

CLIMATE, FEVEIIS, TOnXADOES.

19

couliiuic for a Tvcck with but little cessation,
and again there are intervals of bright, beautiful
weather, lasting for several days. The pleasant
days of the rainy season are more lovely than
those of the " dries." The sky is of a darker
blue, and the air clcai'er and cooler ; and na-
ture seems to be more wildly bountiful in her
gifts of foliage, flowers, fruits and siuilight, than
ever.

Occasional showers occur during the dry sea-
son, though sometimes for weeks together not a
drop of rain falls. Towards its close the grass
becomes dry, and the leaves of some trees grow
faded and yellow ; the horizon and distant hills
are half obscured by a soft haze, and an air of
dreamy voluj)tuousncss reigns around. Tha
constant heat of the vertical sun is very oppres-
sive, and brings on a feeling of languor and
weariness. Houses crack, and everything be-
comes so parched that the first showers are
hailed with joy. The dry season is the most
favorable for missionary tours through the coun-
try, for during the rains the paths are often
flooded, and the traveler is liable to a drenching

20 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

at any moment. The hottest weather is at the
close of the " dries," when sometimes the at-
mosphere is so oppressive that the slightest
exertion bathes one in perspiration. At the
commencement of the dry season a periodical
wind, called the harmattan, prevails on a part
of the coast. It is strongest in the early part
of the day, and frequently subsides in the after-
noon, when a sea-breeze springs up. This wind
blows from the north-east, and is regarded as
unhealthy by the older foreign residents on the
coast, who often suffer much from fever during
its prevalence. It is so cool as to be very pleas-
ant to those who have lately come from colder
climes, and does not affect them unfavorably.
The natives complain of cold when it blows
strongly. The harmattan has peculiar drying
properties, and gives a parched, cracking sen-
sation to the skin, which at other times is moist
with perspiration. During its prevalence, a
fine, red dust gathers on leaves, clothes, and
houses ; sometimes hardly visible, and at others
plainly seen. The theories accounting for tliis
are various. One is, that the fine dust origi-

CLIilATE, FEVEHS, TORNADOES. 21

nally comos from the great desert of Sahara,
which lies iu the direction from which the wind
blows. The air is very thick and hazy at this
season, and it is impossible to sec but a short
distance. Ships approaching the coast are sub-
ject to much danger on this account.

At the beginning and end of the rainy season
West Africa is visited by violent tornadoes.
They come from the mountains to the east, and
pass seaward. Vessels near the coast are occa-
sionally wrecked by them. They often rise
suddenly, and rage with great fury, and are a
source of much terror to timid people. The
following extract from my journal of a coast
voyage will give some idea of the character of
these storms on the water : —

" As I went upon deck Tuesday morning, I
was rejoiced to find the sails full, and felt that
buoyancy of spirits which is always produced
by a fresh breeze after a calm. I noticed, how-
ever, low down in the northern sky, dark, heavy
masses of cloud. The wind continued to fresh-
en, and the white foam-caps grew thicker and
thicker on the water. We went to breakfast in

22

GLIMPSES Oh' WEST AFUICA.

excellent spirits, hoping for a favorable bj-eezo
tliroiigli the day ; but on returning to the deck
wo found the dark cloud had rapidly risen, and
betokened a squall. Swiftly and more swiftly
the heavy mass mounted the northern heavens,
until its ragged edges almost reached the ze-
nith. Our captain, usually so much at ease,
now stood on the quarter-deck, anxiously watch-
ing the rising storm. He had at first been de-
ceived as to its magnitude, as, unlike most tor-
nadoes, it was unaccompanied by thunder ; but
now, as a deep green tinge began to show itself
in the lower cloud, the order was given to take
in sail. The sea grew black as ink, dotted here
and there with spots of snowy foam. As far
out as the eye could reach, a long line of vapor
could be seen, rolling down over the dark wa-
ters. Nearer and nearer it came, like a mighty
bank of snow gliding over the inky sea. It
was a moment of suspense. If the tornado
struck us under full sail, it would capsize the
vessel, and we were lost. " Hard up ! hard
up ! " roared the captain to our helmsman, and
the vessel quickly turned its back to the coming

CLIMATE, FEVERS, TORKADOES.

23

gale, and flew through the boilhig waters.
" All hands on dock ! " " Take in overytliing ! "
— and the stentorian voice rang loud above the
roar of wind and waves. For a moment all
was confusion. The loud-toned commands for
furling the different sails, and the ready re-
sponse of " Aye, aye, sir ! " in swift succession ;
the rattling of ropes and creaking of timbex's ;
the heavy tramp of the sailors as they abso-
lutely rushed from one rope to another, would
have made the coldest heart beat with excite-
ment. And now the storm was upon us. The
wind blew with terrific fury, but the rain fell
in such torrents as to prevent tlie sea from ris-
ing to any great hight. As I looked from the
cabin whidow it was a vast, boiling mass of
green and white ; but our sails were mostly
furled, and we rode safely through it. The
gust was soon over, the breeze died away, and
again we were on the swells in the heat of a
tropic calm. "We escaped with the loss of a
part of our main-royal and top-gallant sails."

On land, of course, the aspect of the tornadoes
is different. Hero are two hasty sketches : —

24

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

" Wednesday, as I was calling on the lieatlicu
people, I heard low mutterings of tluxnder far
to the cast among the hills. Looking in that
direction, I saw a small arch of black cloud,
and underneath a greenish-white tinge. It was
rising swiftly toward the zenith, and I hurried
homeward. Hardly five minutes had passed
before the whole eastern sky was vailed, and a
gloom like night rested around iis. All was
silent, oppressive, breathless. Scarcely a ripple
disturbed tlie glassy smoothness of the river.
Nature seemed suddenly paralyzed, waiting for
some awful outburst. Fii'st came a light puff
of air, then another, and another, stronger
and yet stronger. Curling waves swept along
the inky river, the tree-tops swayed wildly, and
the little islands a half-mile avv^ay were vailed
with storm-clouds. Doors and windows Avere
hastily closed, and the tornado burst upon us
in all its fury. Tlic scene was awfully grand.
Nature was holding a carnival of vfildness.
Fierce gusts of wind raged and roared among
the trees, stripping tliem of branches, scattering
rubbish in every direction, and shaking the

CLIMATE, FEVERS, TOIUVADOES.

25

house with tlicir power. The rain fell in slieets,
wliirling and flying hither and thither, and del-
xiging the earth. Flashes of lightning followed
each other in quick succession, and now and
then above the roar of the tempest we could
hear the loud roll of the thunder. The storm
lasted nearly an hour, and then came a calm.
The next day marks of the tornado could be
seen everyv/here. Houses were partially un-
I'oofed, and trees prostrated."

" On Sunday afternoon a fearful tornado
swept up from the south. The morning had
been hot and bright, and the air close and sti-
fling. About three P. M. we heard thunder mut-
tering in the distance, and in a few minutes
the hurricane was upon us. It was awfully
wild, fully coming up to those descriptions that
are sometimes regarded as fabulous. The rain
fell in masses ; the wind whirled and raged
with terrific violence, tearing large branches
from trees, unroofing houses, and carrying ev-
erything before it ; the lurid lightning flaslied
incessantly, and the thunder roared and crashed
and rattled in one continuous peal. A dark-

2G

GLIMI'SKS OF WEST AFRICA.

ness liko night settled round, and the noise of
tlie elements was deafening. It lasted an lionr,
sometimes partly dying away, and again renew-
ing its violence. Tlie quantity of rain whicli
fell must have heen enormous. The wind tore
off the iron roofing of the mission-house like
paper. In tlie country villages around, much
-damage was done. Many houses were unroofed,
and some torn down, and numerous trees were
prostrated."

The most lovely weather often succeeds these
torrid storms. The sky is a dark, rich blue,
with silvery clouds floating here and there.
The sunlight dances and glimmers on the grace-
ful groves of palm and cocoa. The giant cot-
ton-tree puts on a fresher green, and its smooth
leaves glisten in the light. Gorgeous flowers
bloom on every side, and the breeze is fragrant
with tlic breath of orange-blossoms. All is
quiet, calm, beautiful, almost fairy-like, — a
perfect contrast to the fierce strife of the preced-
ing day.

Gales of wind are not experienced on this
coast, but during the rainy season the wind

CLIMATE, FEVEJiS, TORNADOES.

27

sometimes blows strongly from the south, hi
the dry season, northerly winds prevail.

West Africa has been called " the white
man's grave," on account of the large number
of foreigners who have died here. Fever and
dysentery are the two great scourges of the cli-
mate. All Avho come must expect to go through
a season of acclimation ; but many become so
habituated to the country as to live here in tol-
erable health for years. There are those who
have resided on the coast for twenty or thirty
years, and bid fair to live for as many more.
Others are compelled to leave at once or die.
So much has been written of the deadly nature
of the climate, that many come with a morbid
fear, which greatly tends to shorten their lives.
Some, if attacked with the dreaded " fever,"
become so frightened as to give up all hope of
life, and of course they die ; for the mind ex-

- erts a wonderful influence over the body in this
disease. A cheerful, hopeful spirit is absolutely
uidispen sable in African fever. Care and pru-
dence will do much towards the preservation of

^ life, and yet those who are the most tremblingly

28

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

careful and over-cautious arc usually the first
to fall. The missionary, from the nature of his
work, is obliged to pass through many expo-
sures ; and he will find that a firm, childlike
faith in such promised as are contained in the
ninety-first Psalm, together with a quiet pi"u-
dence, will be far better than over-anxiety and
extraordinary measures. The young missionary
is often sorely perplexed by the advice of his
friends. One says, " You must do this, but you
must not do that ; " another says, " You must
do that, but not this." And nearly all unite in
believing that in either case he will be qiiite
sure to die. We say. Expect to live; make
yourself as familiar with the country as possi-
ble ; and then use your own common-sense,
with a humble trust in God.

The African fever bears a strong resemblance
to the " fever and ague " of the Western States
of America. Aching limbs, a general feeling
of lassitude, and a restlessness of mind which
makes it impossible to remain in one position
for any leiigth of time, are certain signs of its
approach. A chill, more or less violent, usually

CLIMATE, FEVERS. TOIiNADOES. 29

succeeds, followed by high fever. As the fever
passes off, profuse perspiration sets in, and the
sufferer feels easier. The fever is often accom-
panied Avitli violent pains, and lasts from a few
hours to two or three days. A second, third,
and fourth attack follow the first in quick suc-
cession, unless powerful remedies are applied.
Quinine is generally regarded as the best rem-
edy, and sometimes requires to be administered
m very large doses. If taken in season it will
often prevent the attack.

The missionary must expect to suffer more or
less from this fever; and sometimes, when work
presses upon him, he will be compelled to leave
all, and lie on a bed of sickness. But there will
be many hours of joyful labor for his Master,
richly repaying him for all his weariness and
pains.

CHAPTER III.

PRODUCTIONS — TRAVELING.

' HE productions of "West Africa are niimer-
^ _^ ous. Tho soil is usually rich, and if fully
^ developed would yield an almost unlim-
ited amount of produce. No winter re-
tards tho growth of vegetation, and there may
be a constant succession of crops during tho
whole year. Perhaps no country in the world
is more prolific. But its resources are so un-
developed that years must pass by before the
world will really know what West Africa can
produce.

The native methods of farming are very sim-
ple and imperfect. The wants of the African
in his heathen state are so few, and nature goes
so far towards supplying them, that he has but
little motive for exertion. The same spot of

30

rnODUCTIONS, tra veling.

31

grouiul is cultivated only a year at a time, and
tlicii loft to grow up to " bush." Each town or
village has its farm, soiuotinics quite extensive,
where the people raise their rice, cassada, sweet
potatoes, and other food. The farms are often
situated a long distance from the town. The
land is first cleared up with hatchets and cut-
lasses, and afterwards burned over. Almost the
only implement used in planting is a small hoe
two or three inches in diameter. With this the
ground is dug over, and the seed covered. A
few rude buildings ai^e usually erected near
by, called " farm-houses ; " and during the sea-
son of planting and harvesting, many of the
people remain at the farm for days and weeks,
so that the towns are nearly deserted. Others
go in the morning and return at night.

Sometimes at sunrise a curious procession
may be seen passing towards the farm. A few
men go straggling along, much at leisure ;
naked children with large baskets on their
heads, and women, some with infants strapped
on their backs, and some bearing heavy bur-
dens, follow ; and all haA^e a wild, heathen look.

32

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

At night they return, perhaps chanting somo
rude melody, and bringing baskets of rice and
sweet potatoes, and hampers of cassada.

Rico may be called the bread of West Africa.
It is raised in larger quantities than any other
article, and is often exchanged by the country
people for cloths and other manufactures of
civilized lands. It is sown at the commence-
ment of the rains, and ripens at the close. A
single farm among the hills often covers forty
or fifty acres. The rice-planting is very labo-
rious, as the seed must all be dug in with the
small native hoe ; and after the new rice forms
a constant watch must be kept, or the rice-birds
wiil devour it. Cliildren frequently do the
watching, and the traveler passing up the rivers
sees them here and there, like statues of ebony,
standing on a rock or stump among the rice.
Tlie hai-vesting is also laborious. The heads
arc clipped from the stalk, and the rice after-
wards beaten out on the ground. After this it
requires to be separated from the hull by pound-
ing in a mortar.

Sweet potatoes are abundant, and will ri])eii

PPiODUCTIOiVS, TUAVICLIifG.

33

at all seasons of the year. Indian corn flour-
ishes everywlicro, but is seldom raised in large
quantities, though from some parts of the
coast it is exported. A small grain called
pota is cultivated, and sometimes eaten in the
place of rice ; also the bene-secd, which pro-
duces a kind of oil, and is used by the natives
in their sauce ; and the guinea corn, or " koos-
koos." Ground-nuts are produced in large
quantities, and exported by cargoes to foreign
countries. They grow luxuriantly, the tops
resembling rank clover, and the nuts forming
in the ground. They are much used as food.

English and American garden vegetables are
unknown among the natives, but are cultivated
with some success by foreign residents. Efforts
have been made to introduce Irish potatoes, but
those raised have been few and imperfect.

The arrow-root flourishes well, and might be
produced in unlimited quantities. The ginger
of this coast is of a superior quality. Cassada
is largely cultivated in all the native farms,
and is eaten raw, roasted, and boiled. It grows
to be a large bush, and is propagated by plant-

34

GLIMPSES OF WICST AFniCA.

iug pieces of tlio woody stem in tlio eartli. The
root is the portion used for food, and it is highly
prized by the people.

The coco and the yam are two other esculent
roots, largely produced in West Africa. The
former is the best substitute for Irish potatoes.
The latter is coarse, dry, and insipid. The
vine of the yam bears a strong resemblance to
polc-bcans. Sugar-cane grows well on the
coast. It is raised by the natives for eating in
small quantities, but the process of sugar-
making is unknown to them. In Liberia con-
siderable sugar is raanvifactured by the colo-
nists for export, and many mills have been estab-
lished. The indigo plant gi'ows in abundance
all over the country, but not much effort has
been made to prepare it for exportation. Pep-
per and coffee can be produced to almost any
amount. The latter is now largely cultivated
on some parts of the coast. Cotton has long
been raised by the natives, and used by them
in the manufacture of cloths. The Egyptian
and sea-island varieties have lately been intro-
duced, and have flourished to some extent.

rnOD UCTIONS, tra veling.

35

The experiments have not been fully tested.
The native cotton is of a fine texture, and can
be obtained in large amounts.

j\Iany of the productions of West Africa are
as yet undeveloped, but vast sources of wealth
will doubtless be found in those in the future.
There are many fibrous plants, and gums and
minerals now almost iiuknown, which will am-
ply repay tlio efforts of science and skill to
bring them into use. The African fruits are
almndant and luscioiis, but unsatisfying to
the foreigner, who longs for his native aj)plc,
peach, and pear. The orange is one of the most
common and delicious fruits of Africa. It
grows almost everywhere, and a bushel can
often be purchased for an article worth a few
cents. Some trees produce two regular crops
a year, and some have a constant succession of
flowers and fruit. There is a large, sour or-
ange, imfit for eating, which is used for mar-
malade. Many of the oranges are superior in
flavor to the finest found in American markets.
The trees are often large and graceful.

The lime is abundant, and largely used by

36

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFIUCA.

the natives with their food. " Lime-clriiik " is
a cooling and healthful beverage for foreigners.
There are various kinds of plums, sweet and
sour, but they are not generally palatable. A
kind of wild fig is also found upon large trees.
Several varieties of cherries are gathered in the
forests, but they are almost wholly unlike the
cherries of America.

The bread-fruit grows luxuriantly in this
country, though it is not found in a wild state.
The tree is graceful and beautiful, and the fruit
when cooked quite palatable, but it bears but
little resemblance to bread. The bread-nut
exactly resembles the bread-fruit outwardly,
but the rind contains several small nuts, which,
when roasted, are eaten.

The mango is another delicious fruit. The
trees are beautifully shaped, and covered with
the densest foliage, affording a cool shade. The
fruit grows in large clusters, and slightly re-
sembles the peach. The gxiava is also much
valued. It is of the size of a small apple, and
excellent for eating or for jelly. The paw-paw
is a singular fruit somewhat resembling a musk-

-rr.onucTioNs, TitAVELmG.

37

niulon. The tree is small, with a tuft of loaves
at the top and no branches, and the fr;ut grows
in clusters on the trunk. The sour and sweet
sop are indescribable fruits, much liked by some,
but seldom by the new-comer. The cashew is
another suigular production, — half mit and
half fruit. The pulpy portion is eaten, and the
nut at the end forms the seed.

The pine-apple grows everywhere, and is
large and delicious ; the plants are sometimes
two feet or more in hight. The plantain and
banana are found near almost every village,
and the site of an old town can often bo known
by the little orchard of bananas remaining.
The plants look very beautiful when growing
in large numbers, with their immense leaves
glistening in the simlight, and their large clus-
ters of fruit. The tamarind grows in a vfild
state, and is also cultivated. The cocoa-nut is
plentiful, and the trees at a distance can scarcely
be distinguished from the palm. They are
sometimes found in largo groves, and are a
beautiful feature in the landscape. There are
many varieties of iiuts;-— among those most

33

GLIMPSES OF WEST AEHICA.

prized by tlio natives are tlio kolers. These
possess a stimulating property, and are chewed
by boatmen to keep tliemselves awake during
t'nc night hours. They are often used as gifts
by the people, the present of a kolcr being con-
sidered a pledge of friendship.

Among the trees of Africa, the palm stands
first. It gives a pleasing, oriental aspect to the
fchore, wlien seen from the sea ; and in jour-
neying up the rivers, a palm-grove, standing
against a sunlit, tropical sky, forms a picture of
exquisite beauty. The trees sometimes rise to
the hight of sixty or seventy feet. The leaves
make an excellent thatch for buildings, and the
fiber is used for lines and fish-nets. The nuts
yield two kinds of oil, which form an important
part of the exports of the country. Cargo after
cargo is shipped every year by the traders, who
have established factories along the coast. The
natives have devised a singular way of climbing
the palm-tree to obtain the nuts. They fasten
a hoop around the tree and themselves, against
which they loan ; then give a spring upwards,
then another, and when they arrive at the top

mODUCTlOXS, TUA VELIN^O.

39

they cut tlic buuch of nuts from the trunk, and
let it fall to the ground. Palm wine is obtained
by tapping the tree near the top. It is much
prized by the people. A sort of cabbage grows
from the trunk at the point where the leaves
sprout out. When boiled it affords excellent
food.

The bamboo can hardly be called a tree, yet
it is a very important plant. Its leaves closely
resemble the palm, and form the chief roofing
of houses in West Africa. Tlic camwood is
found along the coast in considerable quantities.
There arc also many varieties of forest trees,
affording excellent timber.

The descriptions of farming at the beginning
of this chapter relate, of course, to the native
modes. On many parts of the coast, where
civilization has obtained a footing, farms are
cultivated in a far better manner. But the
work of introducing improvements goes forward
slowly, and agriculture is, in general, in a very
backward state.

Of the animals of West Africa, tlie leopard is
one of tlie jnost troublesome. It roams through

40

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFIllCA.

tlie bush everywhere, and at night prowls
about towns and viHages. Children are fre-
quently killed by it, and grown people some-
times attacked. In the interior, the sheep and
goats belonging to a town are herded within
the walls at night to protect them from the
leopards. The skins of this animal are used for
hangings on the walls of kings' houses, and to
cover native stools.

The elephant is found in many parts of the
hill-country, and is eagerly hunted by the na-
tives for its ivory. These hunts are intensely
exciting, and dangerous. It would be almoiit
impossible for a white man to participate in
them, so dense is the jungle through wliich the
huge beast plunges. Tigers are said to abound
in some parts, and lions were formerly found in
the mountains of Sierra Leone, Porciipines
are numerous, and often do miich daiiiage in
the farms and among the fowls.

Monkeys are common all along the coast ;
and the traveler, passing up and down the riv-
ers, hears them chattering in the forests, and
sees them leap from branch to branch. They

rnODUCTIONS, travetang.

41

ai'o often caught, tamed, and carried to foreign
countries. The chimpanzee, which strongly re-
sembles a human being, is also found in the
forests ; and the ourang-outang is sometimes
seen.

There arc but few cattle on the immediate
coast, but they abound towards the interior.
Sheep and goats are very numerous, also fowls.
The African sheep closely resembles the Ameri-
can, except that it has no wool, and is covered
with fine, smooth hair. Several kinds of deer,
and many other animals, larger and smaller,
are found on the coast.

The birds of West Africa have often a most
gorgeous plumage, but their songs are not so
sweet as those of more temperate regions.
Among them are the rice-bird, crane, pelican,
crow, hawk, vulture, eagle, and pigeon. Many
varieties of fish are found in the waters. Sharks
are so numerous that bathing and swimming
are dangerous, and not unfrequently the na-
tives are killed by them. Alligators are often
seen gliding along near the surface of the water,
or sunning themselves on the banks. Tlio

42

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

hippopotamus, or rivor-ccw, is a native of tlio
coxiutiy ; and its hoarse bellowings are heard
during the night hours by the traveler as he
lies in his little boat.

The insects and reptiles of West Africa are a
terror to many foreigners. They are very nu-
merous, often troublesome, and sometimes dan-
gerous. Africa may well be called the land of
ants. These little insects are of all shapes
and colors. They go everywhere. They enter
our houses, and glide over the table-cloth as we
sit at dinner. They pass up and down the
walls, cross the mat-covered floors in continual
processions day and night, and crawl over our
portfolios as we write. Our paths are lined with
them, whenever we walk out of doors ; and the
rock or log on which we seat ourselves to rest
is sure to have an abundant supply.

The drivers are a curious species of African
ants. They are medium sized, but very fero-
cious. They travel in a long, close line, about
half an inch wide. These processions often
cross and re-cross a path many times, and as
they move swiftly forward over the same spot

pnonccTioxs, rnAVF.LiXG.

43

lioiu* after liour, their numbers must bo im-
mense. If anything disturbs their line of march,
they rush out in every direction witli amazing
swiftness to attack the intruder. V»liatever
comes in their way is eagerly devoured. Bugs,
worms, serpents, and even goats and sheep if
taken in an unsuspecting moment, arc instant-
ly covered with myriad swarms, and struggle
in vain to escape. Even the huge elephant and
boa-constrictor arc said to have sometimes fal-
len a prey to the innumerable legions of thes3
tiny animals. An experienced eye is almost
certain to detect the long black line of drivers
Avinding across the path ; but if in a thoiight-
Icss moment the traveler's foot is placod iipon
it, a scene at once painful and ludicrous fol-
lows. In an instant his body is covered from
head to foot, and a hundred sharp fangs pierce
his flesh, causing involuntary screams, jumps,
and most undignified antics, that draw roars of
laughter from the most sympathizing looker-on.
But all is in vain. Xo relief can be found by
the victim, whose excited imagination fancies a
Imndred bites for one, till he retires by himself,

44

GLIMPSES OF WnST AFUICA.

and jjicks off the clinging drivers one by one.
Sometimes tlicy enter houses, and effect a good
purpose by clearing them of roaches, hugs, and
smaller ants.

The bug-a-bug is another -wonderful and
troublesome ant found in West Africa. It does
much damage to the wood-work of houses, not
unfrequently destroying it altogether. The nar
tive houses last but a few years on account of
the depredations of these ants, and great care
lias to be exercised in the mission-houses to keep
them out. They form a little arch of mud along
the walls and floors, underneath which they
come and go, preying upon the wood. Some-
times they enter a post from the earth, and de-
vour all the inner portion, while the outside
seems as solid as ever, till suddenly it falls.
Like the drivers, they are small, but their name
is legion.

The bug-a-bugs show a wonderful industry in
building their houses, which are called " bug-a-
bug hills." These hills are numerous almost
everywl>cro ; sometimes an acre of land will
contain a score of them. They vary much in

rnoDUcTioss, traveling.

45

size and shape. Some are fourteen feet high,
twenty or thirty in circumference at the base,
and have many little spires and pinnacles.
They are built of a brown clay, quite hard, and
often present a really beautiful appearance.
The building of these solid hills by such tiny
insects is a wonder next to the formation of
coral islands. Each hill has its " queen," — a
bug-like animal, two or three inches in length.
At certain seasons of the year winged bug-a-
bugs issue in immense numbers from small
holes in the ground, but after a few hours' ex-
posure to the air the wings fall off. At this
time they are gathered by the natives in large
quantities, parched, and eaten as food. They
are regarded as very delicious.

The serpents of this country are of all sizes,
from the minutest to the huge boa-constrictor.
Some are harmless, and the bite of others is
deadly. They abound in all the fields and for-
ests, yet very seldom is any one injured by
them. The natives go everywhere barefooted,
but are rarely bitten, and I never heard of a
case that resulted fatally. Scorpions are ofteu

4G

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

found in houses, and among books and cloth-
ing ; centipedes arc also numerous. But these
poisonous creatures give the foreign resident
far less trouble than the swarms of mosquitoes
which gather round at nightfall. Along the
rivers and lowlands they are sometimes almost
unendurable, and all efforts to exclude them
prove fruitless. There are many other insects
and reptiles, large and small, which would afford
the student of nature a wide field of explora-
tion.

The modes of traveling la this country are
few and simple. They may almost be reduced
to two, boating and walking, though palanquins,
sedan-chairs and hammocks are used in many
places by foreigners, and in three or four of the
most civilized towns there arc a few liorsos.
The swinging palanquin, borne by two carriers,
is an easy mode of journeying in the mountain
districts ; but it is not usually available. A
sort of hammock, suspended from two poles,
which are borne on the shoulders of four na-
tives, is often used ; but there are many p-aths

rnoDucTioNs, traveling.

47

so narrow and ovcrlmng with buslics that walk-
ing is the only method of passing over them.

The term road in Africa moans simply a foot-
path ; there is nothing in this country similar
to the wide cari'iage-roads of America and Eng-
land. Even in the partly civilized towns, the
streets consist of a wide walk in the center,
somewhat resembling an American sidewalk
except that it is unpavcd, and on either hand is
a grass-covered space. The native roads, which
lead from town to town, are the narrowest and
most crooked of foot-paths. They arc often
completely overhung and crowded with bushes,
which sweep the traveler on either side as ho
passes. They wind round and round, making
the sharpest of angles, and as new paths occa-
sionally branch out just when one has lost all
idea of the points of compass, a guide is abso-
lutely necessary.

The missionary sometimes journeys over these
paths, in order to visit towns which are not ac-
cessible by boats. Such trips are weaiying,
but at first full of interest and novelty. Havijig
made your baggage as light as possible, remem-

48

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFIUCA.

beriiig to supply yourself with a little food, you
secure six or eight men and set forward. The
guide leads the way, and the rest follow in sin-
gle file. One man carries a small basket, or
" bly," as the African calls it, containing your
provisions, on his head ; another balances your
valise in the same manner ; another carries
your shawl and pillow ; a fourth has a glass
lantern in his hand ; and the others are laden
with various small articles. You spread your
umbrella to keep off the fierce rays of a torrid
sun, but soon you enter the " bush," and find-
ing it a burden, you close and hand it to one of
the men. You feel in fme spirits, and pi-ess
forward rapidly. The forest is very dense, and
the air seems refreshing. Now and then you
catch sight of your shawl and pillow disappear-
ing round some sharp angle, or hear the shrill
cry of the guide in advance, and the answering
echo from the rear. Sometimes you walk along
a soft leaf-covered path, and anon stumble over
tangled roots and loose stones. One moment
you almost lose trace of the path, and are com-
pelled to force your way through what seems

ritODUCTIONS, TRAVELING. 49

ail impenetrable jungle ; the next you clanibor
up the branches of a huge tree which has fallen
across the way, and walk along the trunk for
thirty or forty feet. Shady as is the road, the
perspiration rolls down your face ; and when
you reach a mountain stream, rippling over its
rocky bed, you are glad to stop and drink fi'om
the tin cup that you did not forget to put in
the " bly." Presently you cross a deep gorge
on a log, and climb a steep, rocky hill. By
and by you come to a swamp, where the path
is wet and miry. One of your sturdiest men
comes to the rescue, takes you on his back,
and trotting slowly through the mud, deposits
you dry-shod on the opposite shore. Thus yoii
journey hour after hour, sometimes passing
through an open field where the sun's rays are
intensely hot. At length you approach rice
and cassada patches, and meet natives more
freqiiently, — sure signs that a town is near.
You send a small present to the king, and he
provides a house for you to rest in, after which,
perhaps, you preach to the people, who gather
to heni\ of Christ and him crucified.
4

50

GLlMJ':ii:S OF WEST AFItlCA.

A white man, in these trips, is an ohject of
the greatest curiosity to the people. The few
natives whom lie meets by the way stare eagerly,
and sometimes at first sight spring back in ter-
ror. Crowds gather round him as he enters a
town, and frequently almost the entire popula-
tion follows him as he leaves. These escorts
are often attended with the most extravagant
noises and shouts, running and jumping. I
hardly ever walked in an interior town without
a curious group following my steps, and watch-
ing every motion. If I seated myself for a mo-
ment in a " barre," they would pause, chatter
away in their native tongue, and laugh, doubt-
less busy with their comments on the queer
dress and manners of the white man. The
children, especially, are terrified at a white face.
They will gather in groups at a safe distance,
and peer round some corner with gaping mouths
and wide-open eyes ; but the slightest demon-
stration of approach, or even a stcad}^ gs^ze, is
enough to send them away screaming with
fright. I have often been amused, while rest-
ing in these towns, to see the parents bring

rnoDUCTioxs, travulixg.

51

their " piccaninnies" towards mc ; tlic moment
they canght my eye the invariable scream burirt
forth, which was the signal for a general shout
of laughter from the gathered crowd.

The natives travel with great ease over these
rough paths, often walking twenty-five miles a
day for many days in succession. Tliough al-
ways barefooted, their feet seldom become trav-
el-worn. They do not usually carry heavy bur-
dens, but if necessary they show a surprising
power of endurance. I once had a sheep pre-
sented mo by the kmg of a large walled town
in the interior, and, as it could not be made to
walk, the king's son carried it on his back a
distance of thirty miles over a rough path in a
single day ! The kings, like their subjects,
must walk, for the natives have no mode of
riding except in canoes.

The most common way of traveling near the
coast is in boats and canoes. In many places,
one can hardly visit the neai'est villages without
a short trip on the water. The numerous riv-
ers and winding creeks greatly facilitate this
mode of journeying. The missionary often goes

52

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

liuiidreds of miles in his open boat, protected
from sun and storm only by an awning. Some-
times the boat is his home for many days to-
getlicr, and he must learn to make himself com-
fortable in a small space. Boat traveling has
its jileasurcs, and, particularly in the rainy sea-
son, its manifold discomforts. Tlic experienced
resident on the coast becomes so accustomed to
cramped quarters, occasional drenchings, and
eating and sleeping under difficulties, that he
scarcely minds them ; but the new-comer finds
that the reality of the thing rather outbalances
the romance.

You arrive on the coast, perhaps, at the hight
of " the rains," and find a journey of one or two
hundred miles before you in an open boat. The
romance of adventure is not yet dissipated, and
you are rather pleased with the prospect. You
find yourself in a small cabin, some six feet by
four, formed by an awning, with side and end
curtains. Several mattresses, blankets, and pil-
lows, somewhat the worse for dampness and mil-
dew, are placed on the seats ; and the spaco
which you -lo not occupy is piled with trunks,

rnoDucTioNS, traveling.

53

valises, boxes, and baskets. Soon it begins to
rain ; and tlie awning, that was supposed to bo
water-proof, is found sadly wanting in that re-
spect. You move this way and that, and draw
yourself into the smallest possible dimensions ;
but the little streams come thicker and faster,
until yourself and baggage are thoroughly dam|>
ened, not to say wet. The ocean grows rough,
and the boat begins to toss about like a leaf.
The waves break over the bow, and you hear
them roar on the rocky beach. Your baggaga
tumbles about, and the basket containing the
crockery and provisions comes down with a
crash. Meantime, the rain continues to fall in
torrents ; and, half sea-sick, and more than half
wet, you feel decidedly uncomfortable, and think
that it is pleasanter to read about such things
than to pass through them.

By and by it becomes smoother, and you pre
pare for dinner. Your boatmen cook some rico
and meat, and you draw forth a little bread,
butter, and jelly from the canteen ; and, with-
out a table, the boat rocking, and the rain still
falling, you eat as best you may. Night conies,

54

GLIMPSES OP WEST AFRICA.

dark and wet, and, wrapping yourself in a sliawl,
you lie down to sleep. Thus you journey, per-
haps, for several days, with occasional cessation
of- rain, and bursts of sunshine.

During the dry season, these boat-trips are
far pleasanter. You sit hour after hour on the
cushioned seat, gazing on the soft, hazy shore,
with its palm-groves and queer-looking towns ;
or you lie at full length, in a dreamy half-sleep,
listening to the dip of the oars and the chants
of the men. If you have not forgotten a book
or pamphlet, you may spend many a delightful
hour in reading. At night, when the stars come
out, and the tropical moon floods sea and shore
with its full, soft light, you enjoy such a scene
of magic beauty as could be found nowhere else.

The preparations for a long journey in a boat
require much care, and some experience. Ev-
erything must be seen to by your own cyo, or
the men Avill be almost certain to neglect it.
You have oven to watch the boatmen, or tliey
will contrive to be absent at the precise moment
you wish to start. Then you must see that they
are supplied with rice, water, and sait, and that

rnoDUCTfoxs, tua velixg.

tlic boat is proporly rigged. Next, you an-ay
yourself in your oldest clothes ; and, having
talceu a goodly supply of blankets, pillows, and
shawls, not forgetting the canteen of provisions
and tlic water-jugs, you arc ready to start, which
you do after several " palavers " and unneccs-
saiy delays among the men. If your course is
up some river, perhaps you stop at a native tov/n
to spend the night. Tlic king provides you a
house ; and, spreading your shawl on a mat on
the mud floor, you sleep very comfortably, con-
sidering the heathen songs and shouts, that
continue till a late hour. In the morning, whesi
you wake, you find the glassless window crowded
with black faces, all eager to see the white man
or woman. You arc anxious to start forward
early, but your boatmen have all mysteriously
disappeared. You feel a little like scolding,
but conclude to make the best of it. After a
delay of an hour or two, and simdry tiresome
walks, you succeed in getting 3-our men together,
and proceed on the journey.

Canoes arc universally used by the natives for
journeying by water, and are often employed

56

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

for carrying produce. Some of them arc very
large, and, with an awning at the stern, afford
comfortable quarters for any one. Most of the
native canoes are lioUowed out of a single log,
and vary in size according to the tree from which
tliey are cut. Some are only ten feet in length,
by one \\\ width, and others are thirty or forty
feet long, and tliree or four wide. The natives,
especially a tribe called Kroomen, manage these
frail ca:noes with great skill. They ventiire far
out at sea, even when the water is rough. Al-
most the first sight that greets the passenger on
an inward-bound vessel is a fleet of these trough
like conveyances putting off from the shore.
At first they seem mere specks, rising on the
crest of a wave, and sinking from sight behind
the next. As they approach, the half-naked
occupants strain every nerve at tlic paddles, in
an effort to outstrip their nciglibors ; and tlie
race often becomes exciting. If an overturn
happens it matters little, for the Kroomen are
as much at home in tlie water as on land, and
will swim about, and right their canoes with
ease.

rnoDUCTiOKs, traveli^'g.

57

111 traveling up the rivers, log caiioos are seeu
loaded with produce and passengers ; but acci-
dents rarely happen. By night, a " tom-tom,"
a sort of drum, is generally beaten, which, blend-
ing with the chant of the men, makes a mourn-
ful music, as it sounds out on the night air.
These canoes present a pretty appearance as
they glide swiftly to and fro over the waters.

CHAPTER IV.

TOWNS — HOUSES — MANUFACTURES.

"WELL remember how cviriously I gazed

first saw tliem from the deck of an Eng-
^ Hsh steamer. They are in perfect con-
trast to the neat, white A'illages of America, yet
they arc not altogether destitute of a sort of
beauty of their own. Seen from the sea, they
harmonize well Avith the tropical landscape.
The small, round housed, with their roofs of
thatch, clustered amid groves of orange or
palm, and surrounded widi a Avcalth of foliage,
charm the eye of the ocean-tossed wanderer as
he approaches the green shores. Sometimes
the houses are scattered along a liill-sidc, half
vailed with a soft haze ; and again they are
crowded together in some small opening in I ho
bush.

towns of the African coast, when I

58

7'Oir-V/?, HOUSES, MAXUFACrUItES.

A nearer view detracts somewhat from the
picturesque aspect of these towns ; yet even
tlien the smooth, mud walls, and neat pointed
roofs, look really pretty. Many of them on the
immediate coast, especially i:i the vicinity of
mission stations, show some marks of civiliza-
tion. The houses are not crowded so close to
each other, and often there is space for a little
garden-patch, and a cluster of bananas and fruit
trees. Sometimes there is a faint attempt at
regularity in the streets ; but more commonly
the houses are scattered about promiscuously,
while narrow foot-paths wind among them.

Many of the native towns are walled, or bar-
ricaded, to protect them from the attacks of
neighboring tribes. Some of these defenses
are quite ingeniously constructed, and, though
they would offer but little resista'aco to Ameri-
can weapons of war, they prove formidable here.
In some cases, the outer barricade consists sim-
ply of largo round sticks, ten or twelve feet
long, set in the earth close to each other, and
firmly bound together. Inside of this is a space
some five feet wide, which in case of an attack

60

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

is occupied by tlio soldiers, who thrust their
muskets between the sticks and fire upon tlio
enemy. The inner wall is solid, being thickly
coated with mud on either side. The infirm
and the children take refuge within, where, un-
less the place is captured, they are safe. Other
towns have externally a solid wall, inside of
which is a space of perhaps fifteen feet, filled
with sharp sticks pointing in every direction, so
that if an enemy scales the wall and falls, he
will be impaled and killed. Still further in is
a second barricade of sticks. Not unfreq\iently
a deep ditch surrounds the outer wall. There
arc usually several watch-towers, rising above
the highest barricade, in which sentinels are
stationed with muskets to look out for an ap-
proaching foe, and alarm the people in case of
danger. The entrances to the town are closed
by solid double doors of wood, which at niglit
arc securely barred. The stranger in eiitcring
must pass through the outer gateway, then
along a narrow passage, often so low that he is
obliged to stoop, and finally through a second
gateway. Several " war-men," armed with cub-

TOWNS, HOUSES, MANUFACTUIiES. 61

lasses and guns, arc generally seen about the
gates, even during the day.

The interior of a walled town is a novel sight.
There is no sign of streets, but the houses are
huddled so close together that their thatched
roofs often touch each other. Tlie ground not
occupied by buildings is smooth and hard, and
scarcely a spire of grass or a weed can be seen.
It is swept each morning by the people, and the
litter of the previous day removed, so that a
neat appearance is presented. A stranger will
be very likely to lose his way as he wanders
among the houses, coming now into a small,
open court, then winding through narrow pas-
sages between two mud walls. Here he sees a
kitchen, in which the women are cooking rice
and fish, or tending their naked " piccanin-
nies," and there another, its exact counterpart.
Women arc coming and going, bearing on their
heads bmidles of sticks and blies of fruit. Men
are lounging about in the sun, or lying in their
swinging hammocks. Some of the people are
weaving mats and baskets ; others are spinnhig
yarn from the native cotton.

I

62 GLIMrSES OF WEST AFIilCA.

A large town lias usually several unwalled
villages under its protection, whose inhabitants,
if war comes, flee to it for safety. The size of
towns, of course, varies widely. Very few have
more than fifteen hundred or two thousand
people, and many do not approach these num-
bers. Villages are often found with only half
a dozen houses. Their site is commonly marked
by one or two giant cotton-trees, which affoixl
a cooling shade.

The majority of African houses are built in a
circular form, and are very small, — only twelve
or fifteen feet in diameter. The dwellings of
the chiefs, however, and of some of the leading
men, are oblong, and much larger. They have
a sort of mud-plastered piazza on one side,
where visitors are invited to sit, and where the
chief spends much of his time, stretched at full
length in a ham-mock. The construction is
very simple. A spot is first selected, and cleared
of imderbrush. A light frame is then put up,
consisting of sticks set in the ground close to
each other, with slender poles for rafters.
The sticks are fastened together by tying them

TOWNS, HOUSES, MANUFACTUliES. G3

with a kind of vine wliicli is tiscd for roi)C.
The walls arc next inwoven with small sticks,
and afterwards thickly coated on both sides with
mud. Tliis soon hardens, and forms a smooth
fairfacc, sometimes brown, and sometimes tinted
v.'ith yellow. The pointed roof is neatly cov-
ered with palm or bamboo thatch, and the floor
made of a kind of mud which soon becomes
smooth and solid. A rude partition generally
divides the house into two rooms. A low aper-
ture is left for the doorway, and perhaps there
is one small opening to admit the light. The
interior is quite dark, and the people spend
most of their time in the open air. Fires, if
required, are built in the center of the room,
the smoke being left to find its way out as it
can. The ends of several long sticks are placed
together, and as they burn off, the brands are
pushed up, and the fire thus kept burning
through the whole night. The smoke is trying
to the eyes of a traveler, but it serves to keep
off the swarms of mosquitoes.

In the better class of houses, the window ap-
ertures are closed at night by wooden shutters,

64

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

and a frame-work covered with matting placed
at the doorway. The walls are Imng with pret-
tily figured mats and leopard skins. Some-
times the outside of the house is adorned with
a few rude pictures in red and black, and a lit-
tle attempt at embossing in the mud-work.

Nearly every town has its " kitchens," which
arc built much like the houses, except that
they are open on one or two sides. Here the
women do much of their cooking, and a group
of idlers lounge about, chatting or sleeping. A
tub or large bowl of water stands in one part
of the kitchen, with a gourd-shell "calabash"
for a drinking-vessel ; and a pot of rice is boil-
ing over a fire in another part.

The public building of the town is called a
" barre," and answers nearly the same purpose
as a court-house. It has a mud floor, thatched
roof, and a few rude seats. Some barrcs are
open on one side, some on all four ; others
are circular in form. Those of the leading
kings arc constructed with great care, and look
very prettily. Here the prince, as occasion re-
quires, sits in state and listens to the palavers "

TOWNS, HOUSES. MAXUFACTUnES.

G5

or disagreements of his people, and decides
them. The missionary, too, often avails him-
self of the barre, where more or less people are
usually congregated, to repeat the story of the
cross.

It has been said that an African village, seen
in the distance, bears a strong resemblance to
a collection of weather-beaten hay-stacks ; and
perhaps this homely comparison will give a bet-
tor idea of its general appearance than any
other. The circular houses, with their pointed
roofs of thatch crowned with top-knots, cer-
tainly suggest such an idea to a new-comer.
In passing walled towns, you see nothing but
the high barricade, and a mass of thatched roofs
seeming to touch each other everywhere.

The sites of the African towns are constantly
changing. Where there is now a large, flour-
isliing town, in a few years there may be noth-
ing but a mass of ruins, rapidly growing up to
bush. The construction of houses is so light,
and the depredations of insects so great, that
they last but a short time ; besides, the habits
of the people are migratory. The numberless
5

GG GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

wars of the country, too, destroy many towns,
and there seems to be a feeling prevalent which
prevents a king from building a new town on
the site of one thus destroyed.

The houses of foreign residents on the coast,
and of the wealthier class of civilized natives,
are commonly constructed of wood or stone,
and are two stories high. The lower is used
for a store-room, and the family live in the up-
per part, which is cooler and far more healthy,
especially during the rains, when everything
near the ground is moldy and wet. An airy
piazza runs across one or two sides of the
house, affording an admirable resting-place when
one is hot and tired. These residences arc
often richly furnished, and present a striking
contrast to the mud huts that surround them
Rich hangings, sofas and chairs, and costly or-
naments, adorn the rooms, and one almost for"
gets for the moment that he is in a heathen
land. The mission-houses are plain, but com-
fortable, though the pioneer of a station must
suffer many privations before he can be pro-
vided with such a home as his health requires.

TOWXS, HOUSES, M.lNUFACTUllES.

67

Tlio native huts arc universally known as " coun-
try houses."

The nutivo manufactures of "West Africa are
few and simple. Tlic heathen, accustomed to
a wild, savage life, and living in a hot climate,
have but few wants which bounteous nature
does not supply, and there is but little incentive
to industrious effort. They show much native
skill, however, in the articles which they man-
ufacture. Among the most important of these
are the " country cloths," made from cotton
that grows on the coast. Considering the rude
implements for preparing it, this cloth is of a
superior quality. The spinning apparatus con-
sists of a short, spindle-shaped piece of wood,
having a small weight at the end, through which
the point projects. The heavy end is placed on
a smooth, solid surface, and the cotton attached
to the spindle, which is set in motion by the
hand. Tlie spindle is upright when in motion,
and falls when it stops, so that an unpracticed
workman would make poor progress ; but the
native vromen arc very expert in managing it.
The whole affair is scarcely more than eight

G8 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

inches in length. It might be supposed that
the thread thus spnn would be poor and uneven,
but on the contrary it is quite smooth.

When a sufficient quantity of this thread has
been prepared, it is stretched from stick to stick,
until a warp of appropriate width, and many
yards in length, is formed. This is placed in a
rude loom, and inwoven with similar thread.
The cloth as woven is only six inches wide, but
the strips are afterwards sewed together. The
loom, in principle, resembles the old-fashioned
hand-loom ; but it has no frame, and is so small
that it may be rolled up and carried by a little
child with ease.

Some " country cloths " are white, some
striped and checked, and others have beauti-
fully ornamented and fringed borders. The
women show much ingenuity in mingling differ-
ent colors in warp and filling. These cloths
are made in large quantities towards the inte-
rior, from whence they are brought to the
coast, and sold to traders. They form a large
part of the clothing of the people. When fine
and soft, they make handsome table-cloths.

Tojyys, HOUSES, manufactures. C9

The country blacksmith is another important
maiuifactnrer. In some places iron ore is
found in abundance ; and when so, it is gath-
ered, placed in a clay pot, and melted. The
bellows for fanning the flame is a curious con-
trivance. It consists of a block of wood with
two perpendicular openings, which communi-
cate with a sort of horizontal pipe. A piece of
goat-skin is fastened over these cavities. A
small hole is left at the top, by which the air
enters. The operator puts his hand over the
hole, and presses down the skin, thus forcing
the air through the pipe upon the flame. As
he lifts his hand the air again enters the cavity ;
and so, alternately rising and falling, this sim-
ple contrivance effects the same purpose as a
more pretentious bellows. The forge is a rude
fragment of iron, or a stone. Some blacksmiths
are quite skillful in the manufacture of hatch-
ets, cutlasses, spears, hoes, and other imple-
ments. The native iron is said to be of a su-
perior quality, and knives are sometimes made
from it with so keen an edge as to be used for
shaving the hair.

70

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Another common article of manufacture 13
the " country mats." They are made from the
bamboo, which is cut when quite small, peeled,
dried, and afterwards woven. Some of these
mats are quite large, and make an excellent
covering for floors in a hot climate. Thoy are
woven in different colors and patterns, many of
which arc really beautiful. The people use
them for a variety of purposes, such as tables,
seats, and beds. If a stranger visits them, a
mat is spread on the mud floor, and a dish of
rice and fish set upon it for him to eat. If a
"palaver" is held, or a missionary preaches,
they sit on their mats to listen. If they wish
to sleep, they wrap a country cloth about them,
and stretch themselves on a mat.

A variety of " blies," or baskets, are also
made from the bamboo. Some arc large, and
will hold two or three bushels, but more gener
ally they arc of a convenient size for carrying
on the head. Some are very small, and fanci-
fully woven in different colors. Beautiful ta-
ble-mats are manufactured from the same sub-
stance, also the common country hammock.

TOirXS, HOUSES, MAX [/FACT UPiES. 71

A light, gvaceful stool, of singular construction,
and usually covered with matting or leopard
skin, is made by the natives. Of the log canoes
dug fi-om the trunks of trees, I have before
spoken. The process is a very laborious one,
but it is performed with much skill.

Towards the close of the dry season, when
the swamps are nearly drained of water, large
quantities of salt are manufactui^ed on the
marshy portions of the coast. I can not bet-
ter describe the process than by transcribing
from my journal the record of a visit to one
of these manufactories : —

Leaving the barre, where I had been en-
gaged in teaching a group of heathen, I set
out on a visit to the native salt-works. Ac-
companied by the chiefs son, I walked along
the winding paths past clusters of mud-walled,
palm-thatched houses, and groups of half-naked
people. The tropic sun was still high in the
heavens, but an umbrella tempered his fierce
rays. As we left the town, our path lay through
a dense bush.

" A short walk brought us to the first salt-

72 GLLVrSES OF WEST AFniCA.

pond, — a large, level space, at present desti-
tute of water. This space is overflowed by the
sea at flood tide, and at the ebb the water re-
tires, leaving the ground strongly impregnated
with salt. Crystals of the pure mineral were
glistening in the sunshine as we passed along.
A woman, with a strip of cloth about her waist,
was busily engaged in scraping up the surface-
earth into small heaps, which are afterwards
carried in baskets to the manufactory.

" Just beyond the pond we came upon the salt-
works. Here were long rows of strainers, used
for separating the salt from the dirt. They are
funnel-shaped, some three feet in diameter at
the top and tapering rapidly to a point, composed
of a frame-work of sticks, covered with palm
leaves, and plastered on the inside with mud.
Tliese strainers are suspended over long wooden
troughs, and filled with salt earth scraped from
the pond. Water is then poured on, which
drains slowly through, dissolving and carrying
with it the salt.

"Near by stood the boiling-house, — a long,
low frame-work of poles, covered with palm

TOiryS, HOUSES, maxufactuuks.

73

thatch, and liaving mats hung before the door-
ways to keep out the wind. Within was a row
of large, shallow pans, supported by a sort of
Avliito bricks of native manufacture. Hot fires
were glowing underneath, rapidly evaporating
the water, and leaving pure, beautiful salt. As
I stepped into the boiling-house for a moment,
the intense heat made me gasp for breath, and
I could scarcely understand how those poor peo-
ple could endure it day after day.

" Much of the salt thus manufactured is sold
to the interior tribes for country cloths, rice,
and palm-oil. Nearly all the work is done by
women and children. Tlie wives of the old
chief of Bonthe were toiling in the manufactory
which we visited. Of course the surroundings
were strange and heathenish, but after all there
was nuich native skill shown in the arrange-
ments."

The ingenuity of the people is shown in the
manufacture of a variety of little articles. On
some parts of the coast beautiful car and finger
rings are made from native gold. Finger rings
are also carved from the palm nut, and large

74

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

rings for the wrist are made from the hoof of
the elephant. The " gree-grees," " medicines,"
and charms, so universally worn, are made l)y
particular individuals, upon whom the common
people look with a sort of fear. It is said that
a rude kind of musket is manufactured by tlie
tribes towards the interior. The children who
have been gathered from heathen homes into
mission schools show a remarkable talent for
imitation, and are able, with a little practice,
to construct facsimiles of almost any article
which they see. The faculty of originality docs
not seem to be so fully developed, though it is
not entirely wanting. African manufactures
arc few and simple, but not to be despised.

CHAPTER Y.

THE PEOPLE — DRESS — LANGUAGE — FOOD.

P?;ENTURIES of heathenism have left sad
P marks on the people of West Africa. This

is a trite saying, but it contains more trutli

than most readers would imagine. Tlie
churclies at home are accustomed to tliink of
heathen countries as regions of darkness, but
they do not fully understand the dcjith of this
darkness. In order to have a true idea of the
blight and mildew that rests on everything ; to
see the terrible dwai'fmg and crushing power of
superstition and ignorance ; to fathom the fear-
ful depths to which human beings, unl)lessed by
the gospel of Christ, can descend, — one must
himself stand on heathen shores. He must see
the people in their homes. He must live among
them. He must see with his own eyes, day

76

GL/VrSES OF WEST AFRICA.

after day, the disgusting sights that abound.
He must witness theii* superstitious ceremonies.
He must learn from personal experience their
deceit and dishonesty. He must strive to make
known the gospel to those who have no spiritual
ideas. And if, in doing this, he does not gain
a new and clearer insight into heathen degrada-
tion, it will be strange indeed.

No pen, however gifted, can sketch a perfectly
life-like picture of the people of this country.
There are many little things which baffle descrip-
tion ; things that must be seen to be understood.
There can be no comparison with home scenes,
for everything here is in perfect contrast with
them ; almost as widely different as if it were
of another world. And beside, though the mis-
sionary mingles with the natives daily, and sees
their superstitious customs, yet even he finds it
difficult to ascertain the mental ideas, the heart-
beliefs, that give rise to these practices. It is
easy to glance at the outside surface, but next
to impossible to probe the dark mind of a be-
wildered heathen, who himself, perhaps, has no
clear understanding of the customs that he

THE PEOVLE, DRESS, LANGUAGE, FOOD. 77

Lliiull}' follows. Yet the pen is not powerless ;
and plain, homely sketches of the people aftd
their habits will help to give a glimpse of the
condition of West Africa.

The stranger, visiting this country, is struck
•with the endless variety of costumes, as well as
by the lack of all costume. Probably there is
no other land in the world where dress differs
so widely, or is worn in more ludicrous ways.
There are certain styles peculiar to the country,
but they are by no means universally followed.
Fashion allows every one to dress just as ho
pleases. Everything which can by any possibil-
ity be construed as clothing, is made to answer
the purpose, and is worn just as fancy dictates.

Only a little covering is required in so warm
a climate, and but little is worn. A single gar-
ment often comprises the whole stock. The na-
tive country cloth forms the chief portion of it.
This varies in size, but is ordmarily about two
and a half yards long, by one and a half wide^
The men wrap it gracefully around the body,
one end falling over the left arm, which keeps
it in place, while the right shoulder and arm

78

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

aro bare. "When worn in this way it readies
nearly to the ankles, and makes a decent cover-
ing. Sometimes the men wear nothing but a
narrow strip of cloth about the loins. A sort
of shirt, or flowing robe, fashioned from country
cloths, is quite common. When the pattern of
the cloth is pretty, and, as is frequently the
case, it is ornamented in the rude native style,
it forms a pleasing though grotesque costume.
The Mohammedans, or " murray-men," usually
wear along flowing robe, somewhat ornamented.

The dress of the native women consists merely
of a country cloth tied around the waist, and
reaching nearly to the feet. The whole iipper
part of the body is left naked. On the coast,
where foreign goods can be obtained, a piece
of calico or blue baft is sometimes substituted
for native cloth. Among some tribes, girls who
are not married wear nothing but two or three
strings of beads, or a narrow strip of cloth.
Children of both sexes are destitute of any
clothing.

African women have their own ideas of beau-
ty, and, like their civilized sisters, some of them

THE PEOrLE, DUESS, LJXGUAGE, FOOD. 70

spend a good deal of time at the toilet. In
walking through a village, one often sees them
engaged in painting tlicir faces. They use a
white, chalky substance, reduced to the thick-
ness of cream. Some cover their faces with a
smooth, even coat, and others draw fanciful
figures on the jet-black skin. I have often seen
mothers ornamenting their children in this way.
They first wash them from head to foot, and then
cover their skin with the cosmetic. The chil-
dren are highly delighted with the operation,
but present a queer appearance when it is fin-
ished, with their black, woolly hair, rolling
white eyes, and shining teeth. A mother who
is particularly fond of her child seeks to load it
with ornaments. Little bands, called " medi-
cines," are tied around its ankles and wrists ;
gree-grees, and strings of shells^ bits of money,
and little bells, — everything, in short, bright or
gay, that the mother's ingenuity can pick up,
are hung around its neck and body. Often have
I seen a heathen mother's face light up with a
smile of pride as she watched her painted little

80

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

one go toddling along with its load of " medi-
cines," jingling bells, and rattling shells.

The modes of wearing the hair vary widely.
Sometimes it is left in its natural state, but
commonly the women spend much time in ar-
ranging it. It is worn in braids, and in long
curls, done in a variety of fanciful styles, point-
ing in every direction. The heads of the chil-
dren are frequently shaved. Sometimes the
top of a man's head is bare, while a ring of hair
is left just above the neck ; others have a tuft
of hair on the crown, and the rest closely shaved.
Turbans, fashioned from gay-colored handker-
chiefs, are very popular among the women,
whenever they can be obtained. Even those
who arc civilized often attend chapel wearing
one of these head-dresses, on the top of which
is mounted a man's common straw or wool hat.
The heathen women towards the interior usually
have no head-dresses, though the aged sometimes
use a small country cloth for that purpose. The
men will go without any covering for their heads
in the hottest mid-day sun ; but dui-ing the rainy
season, or at night, they arc exceedingly fond

THE PEOPLE, DRESS, LAXnUACE, FOOD. 81

of bluG and rod woolen caps. They show but
little foresight ; if tliey happen to have two or
three hats, perhaps they will wear them all at
once, and afterwards be obliged to go without
any.

The native African is extremely fond of orna-
ments, and the more he can obtain, the better
satisfied he seems. These ornaments are of
home manufacture, and often give a wild, sav-
age look to the wearer. His arm is adorned
with half a dozen large rings, made of some
horny substance, perhaps the hoof of an ele-
phant, and dotted with little bits of silver or
shining steel. About his ankles are tied small
scraps, called " medicines." An almost endless
variety of rude chains and gree-grccs hang from
his neck. The leading "war-men" generally
carry swords or spears, to distinguish them from
others. Many of the women wear gold ear-
rings. In short, there is no end to the fantastic
decorations of the people.

Sandals are worn in West Africa to some ex-
tent. One variety is called the " rainy season

boot." It is made of wood, with four small
6

82

CLIMPSKS OF JTEST AFRICA.

supports on the bottom, two or three inches in
length, by moans of which the foot is kept from
tlio ground. Others are made of leather. Tlio
Avcaring of sandals is confined mostly to the
Mohammedans. The majority of the people
perform even their longest journeys barefooted.

The grotesque ideas of dross which prevail
show themselves in many different ways, im-
possible to describe, but ridiculous in the ex-
treme. Articles of English wear, when they
can be obtained, are so mixed up with the na-
tive costume, or worn in such a ludicrous man-
ner, as to provoke laughter. A large boy, per-
haps, goes strutting round, arrayed simply in a
black frock coat. A little child comes toddling
after, entirely naked, except that a large straw
hat is perched on his head. A heathen king,
not long since, presided over a great " palaver,"
wearing an old red military coat with brass
buttons', and a black beaver hat on his head ;
otlicrwise, he was entirely naked.

The wealthier class of civilized natives dress
in American style, and indeed nearly all tlie
men. Some of the women wear a loose, flowin<r

THE PEOPLE, DRESS, LANGUAGE, FOOD. 83

gown, called a " coverslat," which, with tho
prettily tied turban, forms a neat dress, well
adapted to the climate. A simple sliirt is the
ordinary dross of school-children. In walking
through the larger semi-civilized towns, a
strange sight greets the eye, — a mixture of
many costumes, mingling in one general stream
of pedestrians. Here goes a lady in silks and
muslin, and there another wrapped only in a
country cloth. Yonder is a sea-captain with his
broad-brimmed hat, and following him a tall
Mohammedan in a flowing robe. Now we see
a Christian with his Bible, and then a heathen
with his gree-gree. Here is a child in full Eng-
lish dress, and there another entirely destitute
of clothing. And so the motley throngs come
and go, showing that the waves of civilization
are steadily rolling in iipon the country, and
beating back heathen customs.

One of tho first lessons a missionary is re-
quired to teach the natives here is to dress.
The heat of the climate, and the natural indo-
lence of the people, both unite to keep them in
the old ways. Their aml)ition must bs awak-

84

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

encd, even at the risk of its being carried too
far. There is a tendency among many who have
bscn surroimded by civilized influences to throw
off their clothing as soon as those influences
arc withdrawn. It is a sore trial to the mission-
ary to sec those who once were neatly dressed,
relapsing into the habits of the heathen in this
respect. Nor is cai'clessness about dress the
only thing that pains his heart. Native con-
verts arc prone to fall in with many of the hea-
then customs and foolish ways. Instead of
maintaining a higher level, and drawing the
people Tip to them, it is too often the case that
they descend to the people. This, doubtless, is
the natural result of centuries of heathenism.
That strength of mind, energy, and ambition,
which mark the inhabitants of enlightened
lands, is not theirs ; and even though the love
of God dwells in their hearts, they can not in
one or two generations rise entirely above those
degrading influences. But there is improve-
ment in this respect. Step by step, the long-
degraded sons and daughters of Africa are ris-
ing in the scale of civilization and Christianity.

THE PEOPLE, DllESS, LANGUAGE, FOOD. 85

The largo number of languages spoken in
West Africa tends to embarrass tlic missionary
in his labors. If there was one language com-
mon to the wliolc coast, or even were there but
a few large tribes speaking different dialects, it
would be comparatively easy to give the people
the gospel in their own tongue. But this is not
the case. An almost unlimited number of petty
tribes have each their own barbarous, unwritten
language. To translate the Bible into all of
these, or to become so familiar with them as to
bo able to preach in them, seems from experi-
ence to be hopeless. True, much has boon
done, and portions of the Bible have been i)rinted
in some twenty of the languages of tho coast.
Tliese, however, are but a small part of the vdiolo
number. In the single city of Freetown, Si-
erra Leone, it is estimated that thirty different
tongues are spoken. Wherever civilization and
Christianity take root, the Englisli language
makes rapid advance ; in fact, the native dia-
lects, like the heathen customs, soem to die
away at their approach. In many instances the
books tliat have been published ia the native

8G

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

tongues lie idle, while those in English ai'C ea-
gerly received. There are many reasons for
this. One is, the people can not read at all till
they are taught, and they can learn to read in
English about as easily as in their own lan-
guage.

Another reason is, the facility with which
the African acquires a new language. He has
a remarkable talent in this direction, and his
wild, vagrant life, wandering from one tribe to
another, and mingling almost daily with those
who speak a different tongue from his own, tends
to develop it. It is no uncommon thing for
half-naked boatmen, who can not read a letter,
to be able to speak five or six languages flu-
ently. Father Johnson, an aged interpreter in
the Mendi Mission, a native of the Kissy coun-
try far interior, is acquainted with fifteen differ-
ent dialects, — among them English, Spanish,
and Portuguese, — yet he can not read a word.
Persons who are entirely ignorant of English,
coming amid the influences of civilization, learn
it in an astonishingly short time.

Doubtless there are some exceptions to these

THE PEOPLE, DRESS, LANCUAUE, FOOD. 87

observations. Whenever circumstances permit,
as among large tribes, it is desirable that the
gospel should be published and taught in the
native tongue ; but among most of the petty
coast tribes, I am fully convinced that English
will be the language, as Clu-istianity advances.
It is too often the case that a missionary, after
spending two or three years in the country,
and laborhig earnestly to reduce some barbarous
language to writing, is compelled by sickness to
go home. Very frequently he never returns,
and so his efforts are almost lost. Had the
same amount of energy and toil been expended
in sjireading the knowledge of English, much
more might have been accomplished. True, it
is a pleasant sound to the churches at home to
hear that the gospel has been translated into
tlie dialect of some heathen tribe on the dark
coast of ^^'est Africa ; but sometimes these home
reports wear a gilded covering, which the mis-
sionary on the ground can not see. Not long
since, the committee of a missionary society re-
ported to the churches that " the Word of Life
was given to the people in their own language ; "

88

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFmCA.

while the real truth of the matter was, that,
though portions of the New Testament had been
translated and printed, the books lay stacked
in the mission-house, scarcely one in circula-
tion, and no desire manifested for them. The
reason was, that all who could read preferred
English. It is often difficult to get those who
understand both English and native to read the
latter. As I have said, there are exceptions ;
but as a general rule there are greater obstacles
in the way of translating in West Africa than
in most heathen countries. Of course, among
all tribes. Christian natives can proclaim the
gospel in their respective tongues.

The educated natives of this country speak
English correctly, but those whose knowledge is
limited often talk very brokenly. Indeed, to a
stranger, when he first lands on these shores, it
almost seems like a strange tongue, and he is
disgusted with the outlandish mutilations. Thi^
dialect at Sierra Leone is known by foreigners
as " Sierra Leone English," and it violates every
principle of grammar and sense. It is impossi-
ble to give a true idea of it on paper, for the

THE PEOPLE, nUESS, LANGUAGE, FOOD. 89

tones of voice and odd gosturcs form a promi-
nent part. The word " sabby " is on every-
body's lips, and means nearly the same as xm-
derstand. If anything is not fully comjjre-
hended the reply is, " Daddy, me no sabby." If
there is any dispute, it is a " palaver ; " if very
violent, " a big palaver." If anybody has bft,
the expression is, " He done gone." The Avord
" live " is applied to all inanimate objects ; thus
of a capo or mountain it is said, "He live doro."
If a person is particularly happy, he is " glad
too much." And so, in an almost endless va-
riety of ways, the language is tortured, till you
can scarcely recognize your mother tongue. At
first you are shocked ; afterwards rejoiced to
have even such a way to reach the minds and
hearts of the people.

This broken English is more comprehensive
in explaining spiritual ideas than most of the
native languages. Some of these are sadly lack-
ing in this respect. Nearly all of them, how-
ever, have a word for " the Great Spirit," or
God. In Sherbro, he is called HobiitolcG ; in
Mendi, Ngiiwaw ; in Vey, Kanabar ; in Timminy,

90 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFIIICA.

Ki'oomassa; in Kissy, Melikii. Iii the Moudi
language thero is no word for " repent," and
the people seem to have no understanding of
the idea suggested by it. As a sample of "West
African languages, I copy the following trans-
lation of the Lord's Prayer in Shcrbro, whicli is
spoken by a tribe living on the coast between
seven and eight degrees, north latitude : —

SELLEY BA HIH JISU3 KRAIST LEH.

Bii hih wunnch aiyenntokrai kol, ilil moa reh
che shcmbeh. Beyl'i moa reh leh boon. Ja leh
moa reh che hahh'neh lehhli reh iitok, ke:i lioa
Ich aiyenntokrai ko'l eh. N'ka hih nanda
njehmah hih, palli. N'mai reh bon hih len,
ken'nyeh yi maia abonkoa hih leneh. N'ma
hih reh yok ki nghel, kc n'koslii h'ih jii leh woai.
Halyeh Beyli leh leh liah moa eh, fossa reh, ni"
gbeng dch, hal chung nenen gba. Amen.

Arabic is spoken to a considerable exte;it
among the tribes a little back from the coast.
Some are able to write it, and many to read it.
The Vey language, spoken by the Gallinas p(!0-
ple, i? also written.

THE PEOPLE, DPESS, LANGUAGE, FOOD. 91

The food of the people is simple. Rice is the
" staff of life ; " and without it there would soon
be a famine. It forms a part, and the chief
part, of every meal, when it can be obtained,
which is almost always the case. Sometimes it
is eaten alone, but fish and palm-oil are the two
favorite accompaniments. If an African is well
supplied with rice and fish, ho can fare £ump-
taously every day. Cassada, sweet potatoes,
coco, and a variety of vegetables and fruits, are
also used as food, but they all occupy a subordi-
nate place to rice. The cassada root is often
beaten into flour, and then made into small
round balls, called " foo-foo," which arc highly
prized. " Palaver sauce," made of a variety of
herbs stewed in palm-oil, is one of the dainties
of the country. So is the species of ant known
as the " bug-a-bug," which is eagerly gathered,
fried, and eaten. Cooked cats are said to be
regarded as great delicacies. Lizards, snakes,
and worms arc sometimes used as food ; and
soups seasoned with certain bugs are i;i high
repute. Much that is disgusting to civilized
eyes in the way of food is constaiitly mot with.

02

CLTMPSJiS OF WEST AFRICA.

Tlio time of eating is very irregular. Tlie
people commonly have but two meals in a day ;
the first about noon, and the last in the evening.
It is an African's delight to cat a hearty meal
just before going to sleep. If necessary, he can
go without food for a long time, but afterwards
he will be sure to make up the fidl quantity by
inordinate stuffing. A quart of rice is the ordi-
nary allowance for a day ; and sometimes a man
will save it all for the evening meal.

The modes of eating are primitive in the ex-
treme. The table and chairs are the ground ;
the table-cloth, if any, a mat ; the dishes, an iron
pot, and perhaps a tin cup or " calabash ; " the
knives and forks, the fingers. It is a novel
sight, at first, to witness the native meals. You
are walking through a village, perhaps, and sud-
denly come upon a group of people squatting
on the ground in a circle. Some are wrapped
in country cloths ; some have chalk-marked
faces, and some are loaded with gree-grees. In
the center of the circle stands an old iron pot,
full of rice, which has just been boiled over a
fire now smoldering near by. A few dried fish

THE PEOPLE, DRESS, LANGUAGE, FOOD. 93

lie ill a pan, and a gourd-shell calabash is filled
■with water for drinking. One after another, the
people thrust their hands into the pot, and bring
forth a handful of rice, which they squeeze
together, and then stuff into their mouths.
Now and then they pick off a piece of fish, or
take a drink of water from the calabash. Mean-
time, they chatter away in their native tongue,
and indulge in outbursts of merriment. Each
one is anxious to get his share, and so the con-
tents of the pot disappear with astonishing ra-
pidity.

But, rude as is their mode of living, the
native Africans are very hospitable. A stranger
is generously lodged and supplied with food.
If a man be extremely poor, he would consider
it utterly beneath him to refuse to divide his
rice and fish with a suffering brother. Some
dwellers in Christian America might learn a
lesson in this respect from the untutored hea-
then of West Africa.

CHAPTER VI.

HABITS — SUPERSTITION.

' HE people of West Africa, like the inhabit-
ants of every heathen country, have many
^ habits peculiar to themselves ; but I can
hope only to give glimpses of a few of them.
Some have been noticed in preceding chapters.

In many respects, their faults and foibles are
similar to those of other heathen. The mis-
sionary's heart is often pained by the lying and
dishonesty which he can not but discover. So
great is the debasing power of heathenism, that
even among those who give evidence of a change
of heart it is difficult to instill those high-toned
principles of truth and honor which ouglit to
prevail. They can hardly believe that little
evasions of truth and little acts of dishonesty
arc sins. Habit, like a chain, binds them to
94

ii.i rt I rs. s urr.ns ri r/oy.

do

many practices over which wo arc compelled
to cast the mantle of charity, while at the samo
time wo seek to uproot them. Many converts,
however, are bright examples of the religion of
Jesus.

One marked feature in the character of this
people is their great dread of reporting the mis-
deeds of others. They are by no means " tell-
tales." If some wrong has been committed,
and you seek to discover the perpetrator, it will
sometimes require your utmost ingenuity. You
may ask half a dozen, but, with the most inno-
cent-looking faces, they will utterly deny all
knowledge of the matter, while at the same
time, perhaps, you are certain that they know
all about it. This feeling may be partly ac-
counted for from a fear that the reported party
will revenge himself upon them, as this is a
common custom. Sometimes the revenge is
murder.

Foreigners are generally treated with kind-
ness ; but if they arouse the enmity of the
people the retribution is terrible. The follow-
ing true story will illustrate something of the

9G GLLVrSEH OF WEST AFniCA.

customs of tho heathen, and also show the won-
derful workings of Providence in raising up a
missionary of the cross : —

Several years ago, one of the trading vessels
which come from England to this coast chanced
to stop at Taboo, a native town in the southern
part of the present republic of Liberia. The
captain wished to obtain a supply of palm-oil in
exchange for cloths and other articles which he
had brought from England. The oil was not
ready for shipment, but a bargain being made
with the chiefs that it should be delivered at a
certain time, he very unwisely left with them a
quantity of goods in payment. The steward,
named Toomcy, knowing the character of the
natives, remonstrated against such a course,
and prophesied trouble as the result ; but his
suggestions were not heeded.

Having made his arrangements, the captain
proceeded down the coast, and at the appointed
time returned to Taboo for his oil. But, as
might have been expected, no oil was to be ob-
tained. He cruised about for some days, and
at length, becoming convinced that the natives

HABITS SUPERSTITWy.

97

did not intend to fulfill their agreement, he de-
vised a ])lan to compel them to do so. Ho en-
ticed a few of the chief men on board his ves-
sel, where he kept them as prisoners. This, of
course, greatly incensed the tribe, and they be-
gan plotting for revenge. One day, as the cap-
tain stood on deck, he saw a large number of
canoes putting off from the shore. They seemed
to contain vessels of palm-oil, and he supposed
that the agreement was about to be fulfilled.
The people brought with them a sheep and rice
for a feast, and were readily allowed to come on
board ; but no sooner did they gain tlic deck
than a fearful scene of butchery commenced.
Tlic captain and all the crew, v\'ith the excep-
tion of the steward, were murdered. Toomey
had fled to the hold, and hid himself under
some loose articles that were lying there.
Search was made for him, and several times
tilings were pxdlcd from beneath and above him,
but he remained undiscovered. At length mos'
of the attacking party returned to the town,
leaving a few to watch the ship. The steward,
meantime, was in great agony of mind, and had
7

08

GLIMI'.^ES OF WEST AFRICA.

resolved to throw himself overboard to escape
a more terrible fate ; but before he could carry
his resolution into effect, he was found by the
gv.ard. It seems that Toomey had previously
showed them some kindnesses, and instead of
killing him at once, they concluded to leave him
for future disposal. So he was Imrried into a
canoe, with but little clothing, and taken on
shore. The sun was intensely hot, and he was
suffering from a high fever, and on reaching
the town he asked for a drink of water, which
was given him.

The chief men were soon called together to
decide his fate. It is a law of the tribe that the
life of those who eat and drink with them shall
be held sacred. Some were for instant death ;
others said that as he had drunk water in their
houses, he could not be killed ; and so his life
was spared. This poor Irish lad, who at that
time did not even know the alphabet, was after-
wards educated by the American Episcopal
Mission at Cape Palmas, and is now the Rev.
Thomas Toomey, an efficient missionary of the
cross among the very people who were once al-

jiAnirs, suPEnsTiTioy.

99

most his murderers. Truly, the ways of God
arc mysterious, and he makes the wrath of man
to praise him.

Other instances of revenge might be related,
but this is sufficient to show that although the
people are kind and hospitable to strangers,
their enmity if provoked is terrible.

The etiquette of the country requires stran-
gers who visit a town to call on the king or
chief, and make him some present. If this is
done, the king feels bound to respect their rights
while in his territory. If anything is stolen
from them a " palaver " will bo held, and the
thief if possible discovered and punished. He
also supplios them with a house, and sometimes
with food. But if they neglect to bestow a
present, the king is not responsible for anything
that may befall them. These presents consist
of various articles, such as cloth, cotton hand-
kerchiefs, mirrors, fish-hooks, knives, and thread.
As a consequence of this custom, travelers in
the interior are obliged to carry with them a
supply of these articles, to win the protection of
the chiefs. A present costing fifty cents is gen-

100

GLIMI'SES OF WEST AFPdCA.

erally sufficient, unless some special favor is to
be asked ; but tlie more you give tbe more re-
spect will be shown you. Foreign traders, wlio
wish to deal with the people in palm-oil and
the native products, are very lavish with their
presents, especially rum. But the kings un-
derstand their real character, and have not one
half of the confidence in them that they have in
the missionary, though his present may be much
smaller.

When any special favor is desired, such as
the grant of a piece of land for a trading facto-
ry or mission-house, the custom of the country
requires tlie purchaser to " make cananory ; "
that is, the neighboring chiefs are called to-
gether in council, valuable presents are given
them, the matter is discussed with much cere-
mony, and the conditions of the grant decided
upon. Sometimes a full deed of the ground is
given for a certain sum of money ; at others, a
yearly rent is agreed upon.

Tliis money is usually reckoned by the " bar,"
which is equal to sixty American cents, and is
paid in articles similar to those used for pres-

JTABrrS, SUPEPiSTITIOy.

101

cuts. Gold and silver form no part of the nativo
currency, but cloth, tobacco, rum, and all arti-
cles of trade, are known by the general name
of " money." On some parts of the coast
strings of a peculiar kind of shells, called " cow-
ries," are used for money, but they form a very
bulky currency, since it takes large numbers to
equal the value of a penny.

If agreements are entered into with the na-
tives, they always wish a copy of them, written
on paper, which they call " book." This "book,"
signed by both parties, is carefully preserved,
and often shown to strangers. In the native
vocabulary, everything written or printed is
known by the general name of " book." If a
letter is brought you, they say, " Massa, I done
bring you book ; " if they wish to learn to read,
it is, Please, sir, I want to learn book."

Trading is a favorite occupation of the people,
and is often carried so far as to prove a curse
to the country. On the partly civilized portions
of the coast there are immense numbers of jiotty
traders, who will spend the whole day in efforts
to obtain a few coppers in exchange for some

102 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFItlCA.

worthless article. Agriculture suffers as a
consequence, and many grovel in tlie deepest
poverty, who might bo independent farmers.
The country people are quite skillful in trade,
and unless one is acquainted with the worth of
things, he will be likely to be cheated. The
most extravagant prices are asked for arti-
cles, — ten or twelve times as much as the seller
expects to obtain. The missionary is obliged
to trade with them, and his patience is often
severely taxed in concluding a bargain.

It is difficult to get a clear idea of the religious
belief of the natives of this country ; indeed, it
may be said that they have no clear ideas of the
subject themselves. They offer their little sac-
rifices, and perform their ceremonies, more
blindly than the heathen in many other parts
of the world. They seem to adhere to their
" customs" simply because it is the fashion of
their country, and not from a clear understand-
ing of the object. Superstition reigns over
them, and shapes their actions. Tlicy grope
blindly in its mazes, degraded, crushed, bewil-
dered.

HABITS, SUPERSTITIOX.

103

The worship of idols of wood and stouc is
not common on the immediate coast, tliough it
prevails to some extent. The remains of sev-
eral stone idols were fonnd a few years ago at
Mo Tappan, one of the stations of the Mendi
Mission, exhibiting various forms of disease in
the human body. It is supposed that they were
worshiped by persons afflicted with such dis-
eases. I have sometimes thought that tliis field
would bo more hopeful if idol-worship prevailed,
for then the people would see more clearly the
importance of being faithful in some religion.
But though they do not bow down to wood and
stone, they are still none the less heathen. Yf e
sec their superstition in a hundred forms.
They believe in a multitude of " spirits," to
whom they offer sacrifices for the purpose of
appeasing their wrath or obtaining some favor.
Tliese spirits are supposed to reside in tlie trees,
rocks, mountains, rivers, and bug-a-bug hills,
and to have different kinds of power. The offer-
ings consist of I'ice, palm-oil, cloth, tin cups, or
almost any article which the person has. If
these sacrifices chance to be eaten by animals,

104

GLLMPSES OF WEST AFrdCA.

or removed for any cause, it is thought that tho
spirit has accepted them. The cvtrious bug-a-
bug hills, before described, seem to be favor-
ite residences of the spirits ; and in traveling
through tlie country it is very common to see a
piece of cloth or a tin cup lying upon them.

Many of the people have a great fear of these
spirits. Near one of the American mission
stations of this coast there stands a large cot-
ton-tree, "which the neighboring heathen ima-
gine to be the abode of one of them. Its pecu-
liar care is supposed to be to keep watch over
the mission-house and protect it. They believe
that if anything is stolen, the spirit will pun-
ish the thief. As a consequence of this super-
stition, mission property is safe ; and on one
occasion some articles which were stolen were
returned, so great was the fear of the spirit's
displeasure.

While journeying up the rivers, I once passed
a mountain which is said to be tho residence of
a great war-spirit, called Kasilon. Warriors
about to undertake an expedition against an
adjoining tribe often make a pilgrimage to this

JUillTS, SUPERSTITIOJff.

105

mouutaia. and profess to hold communion with
the spirit, after which thej regard themselves
as invincible. It is supposed, however, that
those who talk with Kasilon, thougli they may
gather strength for a time, can not live long.

Our old interpreter tells me the following
story of superstition among the Kissy people,
who live towards the interior. In one part of
their country there is a small mountain, whei'e
they believe a spirit dwells, who seems from the
story to hold the " horn of plenty." No one
cultivates the mountain land, yet there is said
to bo a never-failing supply of corn, coco,
yams, plantain, oranges, potatoes, and every
kind of food, including meat. The spirit rules
over all, and deals it out with a bountiful liand
on certain conditions. If a person wishes for"
oranges, for instance, he may go to the moun-
tain and gatlier basket after basket till ho is sat-
isfied ; but if he chance to touch tlie coco or
yam, the spirit gets angry, and gives him a se-
vere flogging. So, if he wishes yams, he may
gather any quantity of them, l)ut must not
touch anything else. Only one thing can be

lOG GLIMPSES OF WEST AFIUCA.

taken at a time, but that may bo had in abun-
dance. On the bank of a small stream which
flows down the mountain there is an immense
rock, which is worshiped by the people. Cows
are sometimes killed and offered in sacrifice to
it. The old man who related this story to me
is a Christian, yet such is the power of heathen
habits that he seemed half inclined to believe
in this wonderful spirit of the mountain.

It is a common custom in West Africa to of-
fer sacrifices to the dead. In some places, if a
king or noted man dies, a number of slaves are
at once killed, so that, as they say, he may be
supplied with servants in the other world. The
people seem to have no idea of the nature of
spirits, but think that they eat and drink like
mortal beings. Friends will lay rice and palm-
oil on the graves of the dead, saying, " They
are hungry, and we must feed them ;" and it
is difficult to make them believe that the spirits
do not really eat those articles. A native mis-
sionary was once journeying up one of the riv-
ers of the coast, and being kindly treated by a
man at one of the towns at which ho stopped,

luniTS, suPEnsTiTioy.

107

he presented him with a small tin cup. The
missionary continued his journey, and in re-
turning called at the same town. What was
his siirprise to find that the man had laid the
new cup on his father's grave as a sacrifice, and
was again using an old, leaky " calabash " to
di'ink from. The missionary remonstrated, and
told him that he did not give him the cup for
any such purpose, but in vaiu ; the only reply
was, " My father needs it more than I, and he
shall have it." It was all superstition ; yet
this poor heathen man, in his blindness and
degradation, exhibited a filial affection, and a
devotion to what he believed was right, that
would put to shame many a professing Chris-
tian.

Although the worship of graven images does
not prevail to any great extent on the immedi-
ate coast, still the people arc idolaters. Almost
every heathen village has its " idol houses,"
sometimes called " country-fashion houses " or
" devil houses." Sacrifices are offv3rcd and a
certain degree of worship paid to them. No
idol, in the common acceptation of the word,

108

GLnrrsES of west Africa.

however, is to be seen. These houses arc com-
monly built iu a circular form, some two or
three feet iu hight, and one and a half in di-
ameter, and covered with a little pointed roof
of thatch. Underneath this, on the ground,
are laid a variety of small articles, such as
sticks, shells, pieces of broken crockery, spires
from bug-a-bug hills, and bits of cloth. I in-
cline to the belief that these articles are not
themselves worshiped, but that they are re-
garded as sacred offerings to some spirit who is
supposed to liave his residence in the idol house.
Be that as it may, the articles seen are "^ory in-
significant. I have never noticed among them
any unbroken pieces of crockery, but invaria-
bly worthless remnants. The people seem to
think that the wrath of spirits or idols, what-
ever they are, is easily appeased. In walk-
ing through a village, you will often see these
idol houses standing near the residences of the
principal men. Sometimes they are built
around a bug-a-bug hill, in the outskirts of the
town.

In some towns there are also heathen altars,

HABITS, SUPEJtSTITION.

109

intended for the offering of sacrifices. Their
construction is very simple. Four sticks of
wood arc hiid on the ground, so as to enclose a
space of a few square feet. Tiiis is slightly ele-
vated above the surrounding earth, and the
offerings are laid npon it. I well remember
preaching in a heathen town towards the inte-
rior, with one of these altars in full sight, and
but a few feet from where I stood. Indeed, the
missionary has frequent occasion to use the pre-
cise language of Paul in his sermon on Mars
Hill, which so plainly describes the state of the
heathen here. " In all things " they " are too
superstitious," and they worship they know not
what.

" Gree-grees," charms, and " medicines" are
universally worn by the people of "West Africa,
and the people's faith in them is very great.
The infant, almost as soon as born, is loaded
with them, and the old man tottering towards
the grave trusts in them. They are made in
different forms, and worn for a variety of pur-
poses. A common form of the gree-gree con-
sists of a string of leather or palm fiber, from.

110

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

which is suspended a small, flat package, either
oblong or square, containing the charm. This
kind of grce-grce is usually worn around the
neck. Other " medicines " arc worn on the
arms, the wrists, the waist, the ankles and feet,
the cars, and sometimes tied to a corner of the
clothing. Tlicre is a class of persons known as
gree-gree makers, who are supposed to have su-
pernatural powers. If a person desires a charm,
he applies to a gree-gree man, telling him the
pui-pose for which he wishes it, and the article
is duly manufactured. One kind of " medicine"
is supposed to protect the wearer from the as-
saults of enemies ; another, to deliver him from
danger when journeying by water ; another, to
make him a rapid walker if traveling by land ;
another, to prevent serpents from biting him;
others, to keep off various diseases ; and still
others answer a great variety of objects. If a
house is to be plundered, " medicine " is put
upon it which is believed to have the power of
causing the inmates to fall into so deep a sleep
as not to be awakened by the thieves. If a
man wishes to revenge himself upon his enemy,

HABITS, SUPEnSTITlOX.

Ill

he repeats a form of words each day over a
grec-grca obtained for the purpose, with the be-
lief that it will cause him to sicken and die.
So _great is the power of superstition that if a
gree-gree is tied about a fruit tree, the people
will not dare to toiich the fruit ; or if " medi-
cine " is placed in the farm, the yams, corn and
potatoes are comparatively safe. Among many
of the heathen the gree-gree seems to be the
universal remedy for and defense against the
ills of life. The missionary, in combating
these varied forms of superstition, feels ready
to exclaim, —

" Who, but thou, Almighty Spirit,
Can the heathen world reclaim ?
Men may preach, but till thou favor
Heathens will be still the same."'

CHAPTER VII.

WITCHCRAFT — THE FURROW — CRIES.

E naturally expect a superstitious peoplo
to be firm believers iu witchcraft. This
t^,9'i?' certainly true of the natives of West
Africa. A belief in witches underlies the
whole structure of society, and leads to many
revolting customs and deeds of cruelty. Even
those who have become christianized can hardly
dispel from their minds the lingering relics of
this superstition ; but among the heatlicn it is
seen in all its sickening and terrible aspects.
Many human lives are yearly sacrificed to it,
the poor victims often undergoing the most
cruel tortures that heathen minds can devise,
before death comes to their relief.

"Witchcraft is supposed to be the cause of al-
most everything bad. If a person is caught by

112

WITCIICItAFT, THE rUItnOW, CRIES. 113

a shark or an alligator, killed by a lcoi)arcl, or
meets with any accident, it is attributed to a
witch, and efforts are at once made to discover
the guilty party. The proceedings to effect this
object doubtless vary in different places. Among
the Slicrbro people it is accomplished through
*' country-fashion men," who pretend to a su-
pernatural power and wisdom, which enable
them to point out a witch.

The " country-fashion man" first proceeds to
the town where supposed witchcraft has been
practised, informs the king of his object, and
promises certainly to detect the culprit. The
king pledges him a certain amount of money
in case he succeeds. A large fire is then built
in the town, and the people siimmoned to sit
around it. The occasion is made as imposing
as possible. The " country-fashion man " as-
sumes an air of great wisdom, and goes through
with a variety of incantations and strange cere-
monies, so as to awe the people. He holds in
his hand a gree-gree, in the shape of a rod, which
he flourishes wildly during the ceremony. Sud-
denly he strikes one of the group with this gree-
8

114 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICJ.

grcc rod, the touch of wliicli is an accusation
of witchcraft, and tlien goes on with his wild
performance, till he is satisfied that no more
witches remain.

Next comes the trial, which is conducted with
more ceremony than the accusation. The mode
commonly adopted is known as the " sassy-iuood
trial.''' The country-fashion man goes to a sas-
sy-wood tree, plunges a needle and knife into
the trunk, and addresses it something as fol-
lows : "0 tree, I beseech you to decide truly
whether or not the person about to be tried is
guilty." He next cuts off a quantity of bark,
beats it to a fine pulp in a mortar, and makes a
sort of tea from it. No other individual is al-
lowed to touch the bark during its preparation,
lest he should take from it its supposed power.
A kind of scaffold is now built, and the accused
placed upon it in a standing posture. The peo-
ple sit upon the ground around the scaffold in
large numbers, every eye fixed on the victhn.
The operator dips up a calabash of tea, and ad-
ministers it ; then, after a pause, anotlicr, and
another. If the accused does not vomit the tea,

wiTciicnAFT, Till!: runnow, cjues.

115

ho is cloemcd guilty, and piiuislicd by d^ath.
If, however, lie vomits freely, lie is taken from
the scaffold and placed on country cloths ; but
if ho now chances to throw np bloody matter, he
is still regarded as guilty ; if not, he is set at
liberty.

The modes of inflicting the death-punishment
are various. Sometimes, after waiting a suf-
ficient time for the sassy-wood to operate, the
people commence beating the victim with sticks
and stones, and continue it till he is dead. In
other cases he is roasted alive, undergoing the
most exquisite tortures, till death comes to his
relief. A few years ago, in a village near one
of the stations of the Mendi Mission, three
women who had been found guilty of witch-
craft were punished by burning. Crotches were
driven into the ground, and sticks laid across
them. The victims were stretched upon these
fticks and bound, with their backs downward.
Slow fires were kept burning underneath, and
the women left to their fate. Rumors of their
awful position reached the mission, and one of
the missionaries hastened to their rescue. They

116

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

were brought away, but two of them died in a
few days. In this same village a young girl was
once convicted of witchcraft, and sentenced to
die. She was tied to a stake at low water, so
that as the tide rose it would overwhelm and
drown her. By some means she got loose, and
returned to the town ; she was then taken to an
adjoining island, stabbed, and her body thrown
into the river. This record of cruelties prac-
tised in one small village is but a sample of
those carried on throughout a vast extent of
country.

The people, of course, have many strange
ideas concerning the so-called witches. Some
of the Sherhro tribe believe the following curious
story : The witch is said to have a large six-
oared canoe, which ho securely anchors, not on
the surface of the water, hut at the bottom. He
then assumes the shape of an alligator, and
swims about in search of prey. If he catches a
man, woman, or child, he descends to the canoe
anchored at the bottom of the river, and loaves
liis victim there. He next spends several days
ia swimming about in his alligator disguise,

WITCIICUAFT, THE pvitnow, cniES. 117

passing near all tlic ncigliboriiig towns, and lis-
tening at each to hear what the people say. If
he hears nothing said about tlic person who has
been caught, he will return to the witch-canoe
and devour him ; but if he sees that the people
"make palaver" and talk of the sassy-wood
trial, he will bring the victim back unharmed.
A multitude of similar stories, as wild as they
are inconsistent, are repeated among the peo-
ple, and believed to a greater or less extent.

West Africa, though a heathen land, has its
secret societies. One of the most powerful of
these is denominated the " Furrow," and exerts
a wonderful influence over the people. Its
members consist of men only, and each one is
bound by a solemn oath not to reveal anything
concerning its secret ceremonies. Death would
doubtless be the penalty for a violation of this
oath, which is so strictly kept that those who
are not members can never obtain a full knowl-
edge of the proceedings.

The sessions of the purrow are usually held
hi a large forest, or " bush," as it would be de-
nominated in Africa, at some distance from any

118

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

town or village. The same spot is kept foi- iliis
purpose from year to year, and is regarded as
sacred by tlio people. Outsiders are rigidly
excluded from the vicinity ; and if, during a
session of the purrow, a woman chances to ap-
proach the bush, the penalty is death. Nearly
all the kings of the country belong to the soci-
ety, and none of them dare dispute its edicts.

There is one chief " devil " in the purrow,
called " Tassaw," who acts as a sort of modera-
tor. All, even the kings, fear him, and doubt-
less many regard him as a supernatural being.
There arc also several minor " devils," all of
whom are men dressed in hideous costume.
The Tassaw wears an immense gree-grce on
his head, composed of human skulls, bones, &c.
His body is covei*ed with platted bamboo fiber,
and a net-work of bones from human skeletons.
His face is rubbed with the ashes of a human
being, and he inspires great terror among the
superstitious people.

There is a secret society also among tlio
women, called the " Boondoo," which aiiswcrs
much the same purpose among them as the

WITCHCRAFT, TlJE runuow, cniEH. 119

purrow among tlie men. Its secrets, strange
to say, arc kept as profoundly.

" Cries " for the dead are very common
among the licatlien of West Africa. The mis-
sionary, as lie enters a town, often hears wild
moans and wailings issuing from some one of
the little mud huts. Friends gather round the
corpse, and give vent to their grief in loud
lamentations. Sometimes they utter expres-
sions of regret for the departed, and praise
his virtues. One moment the cries rise loud,
harsh and discordant, and the next they sink to
the softest and most plaintive moans. Occa-
donally, the mourners tear their hair, cut their
llcsh, and toss about in a frightful manner.
The length of the cry depends on various cir-
cumstances ; for a powerful king it might last
a year ; for a common person, only a week, in
both cases being continued at intervals. Hired
mourners arc sometimes employed to cry for
the dead, in which case they feign the deepest
grief, and carry on their operations in the most
extravagant manner. At the burial, the cries
are often heart-rending.

120

GLIMPSES OF IVEST AFRICA.

Polygamy is generally practiced among tliis
people ; in fact, almost every heathen man who
is able has a plurality of wives. A man's
property is often measured by the number of
them which he possesses. The women are pur-
chased from their parents or friends for a small
sum, sometimes not more than three or four
dollars. They are not themselves consulted in
the matter, but when bargained for, willing or
unwilling, must go. Prince Mannah, a noted
Gallinas king, living a few miles from the Men-
di Mission, is said to have a thousand wives.
Some of them he does not even know by siglit.
In a civilized country the cost of supporting so
many would forbid the custom, if tlierc Avere
no otlacr reasons ; but here the tables arc turned,
and tli» wives support their husband. They
perform the drudgery, while their lord sits at
ease in his hammock, and issues his orders.

A curious custom prevails among some of the
West African tribes in regard to the wdves of a
dead king. During the days of mourning they
are closely watched, and not suffered to go out
alone ; but on the morning on which the cry is

WITCIICIiAFT, THE PUliUOW, CltlES. 121

ended, tlicy arc all taken to the river to bathe.
Those who wish to secure them as wives follow,
and at a point higher up the river throv/ short
sticks into the water, which float down to the
women. If a woman chooses to accept the pro-
posal of marriage, she picks up the stick ; if
not, she allows it to float by.

Poisoning is a common mode of revenge in
Africa. Tlie people are very superstitious in
regard to it, believing that their enemies are
possessed of various subtile poisons, which re-
main for a long time iii the system, but finally
kill. Those who prepare food for the kings
and chiefs are required to taste of every dish,
as a sort of pledge that no poison has been
mixed with it. But notwithstanding all pre-
cautions, many lives are doubtless taken every
year by these means.

The Mohammedan religion prevails to some
extent iu West Africa, and portions of the Ko-
ran are in circulation. The Mohammedans are
generally possessed of superior minds, but prac-
tice ^reat impositions on the heathen. Some
can read and write Arabic with much facility,

122

CLmrSES OF )fEST AFniCA.

and a few schools are established in the larger
towns. They arc much more difficult to rcacli
with the gospel than the purely heathen. The
common people purchase from them grcc-grees
and charms, and sometimes regard them with a
sort of reverence because they are "book" or
" murray men."

CHAPTER VIII.

GOVERNMENT — PALAVERS — WAR — SLAVERY.

HE centuries of darkness that have rolled
over Africa have left upon it indelible
?^ marks. Its skies are as smilino; as ever,
"° its breezes as odorous, its flowers as gor-
geous, its fruits as luscioiis, and its vegetation
as luxuriant; but the blight and mildew of
those dark ages rest heavily over the people.
Like all heathen nations, they are blinded and
ignorant, warped by superstition, and swayed by
fear and passion. They exhibit much natural
talent, which if developed and guided might
make them a great power in the world. Even
in their degraded state, there are many in-
stances of native nobleness and commanding
strength of mind that can not but inspire re-
spect from all.

123

121

GI.niPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Those traits of character are all seen in the
government of the country. Some kings and
chiefs rule with a dignified bearing and firm
hand, really striving to do good to their sub-
jects ; but, inwoven with the good, there is
much of superstition and cruelty. The large
number of petty tribes on the West African
coast renders any general form of government
impossible, though there is considerable simi-
larity in the regulations enforced. The pur-
row is the source of many general laws, which
the kings are bound to respect ; otherwise war
is made upon them. With this exception, each
king is independent, and can manage his own
towns and villages as he chooses. The people
usually show much respect to their kings, and
obey them with alacrity.

If any disagreement is to be settled, a " pa-
laver" is called. These palavers are usually
held in tlie barre, or court-house, of the town,
and the king of the place presides at them.
Quite a number of people often assemble to lis-
ten. The parties bring forward their witnesses
and present their pleas, and the king with liis

COVEnmiENT, PALAVERS, WAR, SLAVERY. 125

counselors sits in state, hearing the case, and
finally dcGidcs as is deemed just. The palavers
arc conducted Avith much dignity and ceremony.
Some of the speeches are really eloquent, at
least so far as the outside appearance goes. I
have sat in a palaver-house in African wilds,
listening to the speakers as they pou.red forth a
torrent of words in their native tongue, till my
heart has been fairly thrilled. I knew not what
they were saying, but the commanding figure,
the erect and manly bearing, the graceful,
speaking gestures, the face lit up with the in-
spiration of the moment, and the softly-modu-
lated voice, made an impression scarcely inferior
to that of the popular orators of civilized lands.
The decisions of the palaver are not always
what they should- be, for heathen superstitions
and cruelties are mixed up with every form of
justice. Often the palavers are brouglit to the
missionary for decision, and much of his pre-
cious time and strength is taken up in listening,
through an interpreter, to the various state-
ments. In such cases, his verdict is cheerfully
accepted by both parties as finaL

126

GLIMVSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Unadjusted palavers between different tribes
often load to those petty wars which are always
prevailing to a greater or less extent on this
joast. The cause of war is commonly some
trifling matter, scarcely worth noticing at all,
which is dwelt upon and magnified, till the
king and people are roused to the requisite
pitch for an attack. Indeed, many kings seem
to delight in war, for the sake of the spoils and
prisoners which they hope to capture.

The forces employed are usually quite small,
perhaps two or thi-ee hundred on a side. They
are armed with old-fashioned miiskets, swords
of native manufacture, and some other weapons.
Some towns are defended with small cannon,
obtained from traders. Tlie attacking party
approach a town witli a stealthy, cat-like tread,
skulking among bushes and hiding behind trees,
so as to surprise the people if possible. Strate-
getic movements are much more popular with
African soldiers than a hand-to-hand conflict ;
but wlien necessary they fight with a desperate
bravery. The swift movements and sudden at-
tacks of African war-parties are svirprising. At

coveh^'mlxt, palavers, wah, slaveuy. 127

sunset a villago reposes in quiet beauty amid
its groves of graceful palms and bending cocoas.
The log canoe of the rude fisherman glides
peacefully homeward over the river. The peo-
j)le gather in barre and kitchen for their eve-
ning chat. Not the faintest signs of an ap-
proaching enemy are discernible on land or
water. Darkness comes on, and suddenly at
the midnight hour the fierce war-cry of a foe
is heard. The thatched huts are ablaze. The
terrified inhabitants, not prepared to resist, fly
for their lives. Many are taken prisoners,
plunder is secured, and then the enemy departs
as suddenly as he came. The morning sun
shines on blackened ruins and deserted homes,
where but yesterday the simple round of hea-
then life went on in fancied security.

One object of these wars is to obtain slaves ;
nearly all the prisoners captured being re-
garded as such. But slavery in "West Africa is
very different from the bondage practiced by
some civilized nations. The master and slave
are of the same color, though usually of differ-
ent tribes. They are both ignorant and super-

128

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFFdCA.

stitioiis, and arc regarded as more nearly equals
in their privileges than ths masters and slaves
of America. One might pass through towns
where there are hundreds of slaves, and yet
never suspect that the institution existed there
at all. The usual title of the slaveholder is
" father," and his treatment of his slaves gene-
rally warrants this name. Slaves are allowed
to acquire property of their own, and if they are
diligent and faithful they may become the rich-
est men in the country. They often own slaves
themselves, who are sent out to work for the
masters in their stead. Many sad wrongs, how-
ever, spring out of the institution in this modi-
fied state, and as civilization and Christianity
advance it gradually fades away.

Many of the slaves of this country are stolen
from their parents while young. A mother, for
instance, sends her child to a spring for water,
and he never returns. The woods may echo to
her anguished cries, but he comes not. Kid-
nappers were lurking in the bush, and sud-
denly they pounced upon their prey, and bore
him off. Others are stolen while going on some

GOVERyMENT, PALAVEIIS, If.lll, SLAVERY. 129

errand, or playing about the village. Men arc
oftsu prowling about in the dense bush which
surrounds the native towns, watching for their
victims. Father Johnson, the old interpreter
of the Meudi Mission, was stolen from his na-
tive country, far interior, by these kidnappers.
Ho was then some eight years of age, and had
been sent by his mother to a town at some dis-
tance to visit his older brother. While passing
the bush, three men suddenly pounced upon
him, and bore him off. Tliey traveled by night,
and hid in the bush during the day, until at
length they reached the Gallinas country, and
the victim was sold as a slave. Father John-
son has never seen his parents or relatives since.
Often the child is so young when stolen that
ho has no remembrance of his country or peo-
ple. The method of obtaining slaves, and the
mode of treating them, vary somewhat among
different tribes. On the east of Calabar, hun-
dreds of miles below Sierra Leone, lies the coun-
try of the Fellatalis, one of the southern prov-
inces of Luccatoo. The inhabitants are de-
scribed as fierce men, who ride on horseback.

130 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Tliey are Moliammcdans, and by their con-
quests reduce many to slavery, and sell them to
other tribes. In some places there are laws,
the breaking of which is punished by slavery.
Sometimes, if a person is accused of witchcraft,
and successfully passes the sassy-wood ordeal,
his accuser is sold as a slave. Among some
tribes, if a man owes more than ho is able to
pay, he is sold to make up the balance. A
missionary at Calabar relates the following
story of a device that is practiced for obtaining
slaves : —

" The Ibo tribe believe in a being whom they
call Tslmku, and whose shrine is at Aro, a town
lying west of this, in the Delta. People go thith-
er from surrounding tribes to consult this ora-
cle, and it is held in high repute. The pilgrim
carries his present with him. The place where
the priests meet him is said to be outside of the
town of Aro, where thei-e is a house built over
a small stream. If the })reseut is deemed satis-
factory, the pilgrim is sent back with his answer.
But many never return from that house. It is
believed that Tshuku has devoured them. In

GOVEHMIEXT, PALAVERS, WAIt, SLAVERY. 131

order to give color to this deception, a red dye,
or perhaps at times real human blood, is spilled
in the stream, and is seen by those outside."

The foroi"-!! slave-trade is still carried on to
some extent from West Africa, though the
number of slaves exported has greatly dimin-
ished during the past few years. The Sherbro
country, in the vicinity of the Mendi Mission,
was formerly a great resort of slave-ships, and
many are the dark tales of blood and crime re-
lated concerning them. The numerous rivers
and mangrove islands afforded them great op-
portunities to carry on the wicked traffic with
compai'ativc safety. It is impossible to conceive
the fearful deeds of cruelty and the sickening
horrors that attended it. If the secret history
of the foreign slave-trade from West Africa
could be written, it would fill volumes with the
most thrilling pictures of human agony and
woe, exceeding in strangeness and mystery the
wildest dreams that ever entered the head of a
novelist. God be praised that those dark days
of terror are so fast passing away.

CHAPTER IX.

THE WORK OP MISSIONS.

VER since our Saviour's last command,
"Go yo into all the world and preach the
gospel to every creature," his church has
been engaged, to a greater or less extent,
in the work of missions. The story of salvation
through Christ, which was then known only in
the region immediately surrounding Jerusalem,
has been spread far and wide. Heathen Europe
heard the sound and awoke to life. It crossed
the Atlantic with the Pilgrims, and Christian
America to-day testifies to its wondrous power.
Great things have been accomplished, too, in
these later times by the spread of the gospel
through the instrumentality of missions. Mis-
sionaries have been sent forth into many of the
dark places of the earth. With a silent, patient
heroism, daunted not by the prospect of danger,

132

THE WOTIK OF MISSIOA'S.

133

or even of death, they have sundered the ties
that bound them to friends and native land, and
buried themselves in foreign wilds, surrounded
only by untamed men. They have trod the
burning sands of Africa, and journeyed ovar
its sluggish, death-breeding rivers. They have
penetrated its jungles and visited its kraals.
They have braved the fierce cold and eternal
snows of Greenland. They have visited the
crowded cities and villages of India. They
have combated the false beliefs of many an
Asiatic nation. They have gone to ,the most
lonely islands of the ocean. And everywhere
they have told the same sweet story of redeem-
ing love, and besought the heathen to accept of
Christ. And not only have men done this, but
gentle woman, tenderly nurtured, and surround-
ed by the luxuries of a civilized land, has joy-
fully forsaken all, and borne a noble part in the
blessed work.

The results of the missionary work are al-
ready grand and glorious. Tlie wilderness and
the desert are budding and blossoming. Many
ialos of the sea have become christianized, and

134 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFniCA.

dark corners of tlie eartli lit up with the rays
of the Sun of Righteousness. Souls are rejoic-
ing in glory to-day who have been saved through
this instrumentality. No tongue can fully ut-
ter, and no pen fully describe, the wonderful
results which, through God's blessing, have fol-
lowed the labors of his servants in foreign lands.
Even in West Africa, though the deadly climate
necessitates a frequent change of laborers, much
progress has been made. There is a line of
missions extending for thousands of miles along
the coast, while here and there stations have
been planted in the interior. From these the
gospel light is constantly radiating ; and wher-
ever it is shed, the superstitions and ceremonies
of heathenism are fast passing away. Already
there are many thousands of native converts,
and from among them some educated pastors
and teachers are employed in the regular mis-
sion work.

From day to day the progress is scarcely dis-
cernible, but glancing back over a series of
years, it becomes very apparent. The work
does go forward, thougli to mortal eyes the ad-

THE WOUK OF MISSIONS.

13y

vauce may seem very slow. Missionary life iii
West Africa is not without its shady side. Op-
pressed with the languor peculiar to a tropical
climate, enfeebled by the ever-recurring fever,
with his nervous system unstrung, and a crowd
of duties constantly calling for attention, the
missionary's heart sometimes sinks within him.
As he loolcs over the field, where for months
and years he has toiled, and sees so little fruit,
he is ready to exclaim, " "What good have I
accomplished by all these labors ? " That de-
lightful vail of romance, which, perchance, sur-
rounded the foreign missionary work when he
looked at it from his old New England home,
has long ago departed. It is a stern, matter-of-
fact reality now, yet the work itself is far more
dear than ever. Those fancy pictures, which
the good folks at home so delight to draw, of a
missionary sitting all day under a branching
tree, with a group of eager, earnest learners
about him, are not always realized. He must
sometimes gather the naked, filthy children, and
wash and clothe them. He must seek out the
people in their dark, damp huts, and converse

136 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

with them there. He must gaze ou dis-gaisting
objects every day, and feel his soul pained by
heathen habits. He must repeat over and over
the simplest truths of the gospel, and then some-
times fail of making them plain to the darkened
mind. But the joys of the work far outbalance
the petty trials and discouragements. The mis-
sionary realizes that

" The lonely heart that leans on God
Is happy anywhere ; "

and, though conscious of his own weakness, he
is strong in the Lord. He knows that he is
entirely dependent on the Holy Spirit ; but he
knows, too, that that Spirit has been promised
him. Turning over the pages of my missionary
journal, I find many a record speaking of these
things : —

Dec. 5. — God fulfills to us his precious prom-
ise, that whosoever forsaketh houses or lauds,
or father or mother, for Jesus' sake, shall re-
ceive a hundred fold more in this life. " Lo, I
am Avith you always ! " has been blissfully veri-
fied in our experience. Trials, to be sure, have
pressed upon us, and we have been ofttimes in

THE ]rORK OF Missioys.

137

great perplexity, scarcely knowing whicli way
to turn ; yet over and through all has gleamed
the sunshine of God's face and the smile of his
love. We expect these trials, for Jesus said
that the " hundred fold " would be accompanied
" with persecutions " here, but sweet, very sweet,
are the anticipations of " everlasting life " be-
yond.

Doubtless, many who seem to listen gladly
soon forget our words ; bu.t we trust that God
opens the hearts of some to receive permanent
good. It is ours to sow the seed wherever we
can, God's to give the increase ; and we have
no right to believe that any labor for Jesus will
be utterly in vain. The harvest may be long
delayed, and the reapers few and unworthy ; but
never was there a word spoken nor suffering
patiently endured for Christ's sake in vain.
Often in our work, as we long and pray for the
delaying harvest, we feel ready to exclaim, —

" Full well I know I have more tai-es than wheat, —

Brambles and flowers, dry sticks, and withered leaves ;

■\Vhercfore I blush and weep, and at thy feet

I kneel down reverently and repeat,
" Master, behold my sheaves.

13S GLIMPSES or WEST AFUICA.

I know these blossoms, clustering heavily.
With evening dew upon their folded leaves.

Can claim no value or utility ;
Yet well I know thy patient love perceives

Not what I did, but what I strove to do.

And, though the full, ripe ears be sadly few,
Thou wilt accept my sheaves."

Many faithful missionaries have been called
to seal their testimony for Jesus with their lives
on heathen ground. Their burial-places are
consecrated spots, rendered for ever sacred by
the dust of fallen laborers. The West African
coast is lined with these sad memorials. Some
had but just been permitted to lift the banner
of the cross ere they fell in death. But not
one has fallen in vain. Silent voices come
forth from their grass-grown graves, speaking
of a high and lofty faith, a noble zeal, a wil-
lingness to die if need be, only that they might
have the sweet privilege of pointing heathen to
the cross of Christ. Parents, and brothers,
and sisters, may have wept bitterly over the
loved ones early called, and almost felt that the
sacrifice for Africa's redemption was too great ;
but our dear heavenly Father saw it all, and
will overrule it to the glory of his kingdom.

CHAPTER X.

WAYSIDE TEACHINGS.

-UCH of the labor of missionaries may
Cl^iL well be denominated u-ariside feachinq.
c^^a) Wherever a group of listeners can be
found or gathered, there an opportunity
is offered of doing good, and the faithful mis-
sionary will be ready to embrace it. I extract
the following notes from my journal : —

Dec. 21. — God commands us to ijo to every
creature with the offer of salvation, and if we
can not find them elscwliere we must visit them
at their homes. Let me picture one of these
visits. — It is towards evening, and putting my
small Testament in my pocket, I start on my
walk. Passing through our pleasant yard and
out at the gateway, I find myself in one of the
main roads of tlie region. Americans would

139

140

GLIMPSES OF JVEST AFniCA.

call it a more foot-path, but in this wagonless
country it is all the road we have. On one side
is the Slierbro river, some five miles in width,
and dotted with numerous mangrove islands,
and on the other the lime-hedge that bounds
our mission grounds. People are constantly
coming and going along the path. Here is a
tall Mohammedan, wearing a flowing white
cloth reaching from his shoulders to the ground,
and adorned with rings of ivory and gold about
his wrists and arms. He wears a country gree-
gree rovmd his neck, which is supposed to keep
off evil spirits. He is followed by some women,
with their faces curiously marked with white
chalk. Yonder, on the river-bank, is a group
of naked boys and girls. Others, quecrly
dressed, are passing by. "Walking a little dis-
tance along this path, I turn up a shady lane,
and soon reach the native village of Gondamar,
Tlic houses are small, with mud walls and
thatched roofs, and are scattered promiscuously
about. Near one of the houses a small girl is
beating rice in a mortar, and several women
stand around her. I pass up to them, and

WAYSIDE TEACHmCS.

141

speak ill English. They all laugh aloud, and
shake their heads. They are Sherbro people,
and can understand nothing that I say. Soon
another woman comes up, and says a few words
in broken English. I talk with her a while
about Jesus, invite her to come to the chapel on
Sunday, and then pass on.

I next stop at the door of a country house. It
looks dark inside. There is no floor but the
bare earth, and only two rooms. A fire is
burning in the middle of one room, and over it
a pot of rice is suspended. A man comes for-
ward and meets me. He talks English quite
fluently, and I can speak to him with much
more ease about his soul. As I leave, he thanks
me for what I have said. Next I visit the chief
of the town. He brings a low stool, and places
it outside the door for me to sit upon ; and as I
converse with him about the Bible, and read
from it some passages, a group gathers round
us. Leaving the chief's house, I stop at other
huts, or say a few words to those whom I meet.
Near the farther end of the village, I find an
old woman who lived in Sierra Leone, and at-

142

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

tended chapel there years ago. She "welcomes
me gladly, and I read a chapter from the Tes-
tament as I sit hy her mud house. A half-dozen
others crouch on the ground around me, gazing
earnestly into my face. So I pass from house
to house, trying to point souls to Jesus, until
the evening shadows begin to fall, when I turn
homewards.

Pec. 23. — Monday evening I took another
"wayside walk" to a heathen village. James,
one of our mission boys, went with me to inter-
pret. "We found two or three men standing
near one of the houses, and I commenced
talking with them about God. Soon, nearly a
dozen, attracted by our conversation, gathered
around to hear. Some of them were Moham-
medans, or " murray-men," as they are called,
from the interior, and could read Arabic. After
conversing with these for a while, we called at
the doors of several houses, and tarried for a
few moments to speak of Jesus : and so, walk-
ing from place to place, and carrying the good
tidings, we reached some whom we could not
otherwise have gained access to. In one part

WAYSIDE TEACHINGS.

143

of the village wo found some country people,
who said thoy had never h.eard a missionary
talk about God ; and calling James to interpret,
I spent ton minutes, as long a time as they
would attentively listen at once, in repeating
the story of the cross. They gave good atten-
tion to the word spoken. As the twilight shad-
ows gathered, we returned to the mission-
house.

June 17. — Shall I give you a little sketch of
mission life to-day ? It may afford a glimpse
of one of the many features of our work.

It is a clear, hot morning, and the tropical
sun is already high in the heavens. As usual,
I am to spend two or three hours with a group
of learners in the barre at Bonthe, a native
town three-fourths of a mile distant. The path
by land is so wet and miry that I am obliged to
go on the water. Passing down to our little
wharf, I step into my log canoe. I sit on a
stool near the prow, and a man at the stern
paddles. The canoe is some twelve feet long,
and one and a half wide, hollowed out of a sin-
gle log. As we glide along, it sways this way

]4 J: GLr.UPSSS OF WEST AFHICA.

and that, the upper edge often nearly even with
the water. A frightened person would be sure
to upset it, and as the river is full of sharks and
alligators, that might prove no light matter.
On one side is the island shore, with its small
brown huts and a few palms rising against the
sunlit sky ; on the other is the broad Sherbro
river, with canoes of all sizes and shapes, filled
with dusky, half-naked people, gliding in every
direction. Naked children play along the beach,
and men and women, with a strip of cloth wound
arouiul their waists, walk to and fro, or lounge
in tlie sun. The faces and bodies of many of
the women are grotesquely marked with white
chalk. Twenty minutes' paddling brings me to
Bonthe. A short walk over a strip of burning
sand and along the winding paths of the town,
and I find myself in the chief's yard, bounded on
three sides by the barre, kitchen, and house, and
on the fourth by a rude fence. Tiie children
crowd round me as I enter, and three or four
little hands are placed in mine at once, with a
broken " Mornin', sir ! " from a score of voices.
At first they were frightened at the sight of a

JFA YSWE TEACUmCS.

145

wliito mail, but now they are very familiar.
Many understood no Euglisli when they came,
but they soon learn to talk. It requires conside-
rable planning to gather the children, and some-
times a little force. I see a boy, for instance,
playing about the town, and send a couple of
the older children to invite him to the barre.
He is frightened at the bare idea, and runs off
screaming. They pursue, and after a short
chase come back panting with the boy in their
arms. He screams and kicks furiously, but
one holds him while the other puts on a shirt,
and they bear him in triumph to the barre. I
lay my hand on his head and speak gently, and
he is soothed ; and in a few days, perhaps, he
becomes a quiet, constant learner.

The barre has a thatched roof, mud floor,
and mud walls on three sides, the fourth
being open. Eude seats are ranged around
the walls, on which the learners sit, and a table
and chair are provided for me. At a stroke of
the bell I read a few verses from the Bible, and
we kneel in prayer. Then follows the patience-
trying work of teaching the elements of read-

lO

1 IG CLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

ing and spelling to a groxip of heathen. Print-
ed tablets hang on the walls, and as the class
gather around them, eager and attentive, the
scene is interesting. Some have already learned
to read short sentences, and repeat easy verses
from the Scriptures. As I tell them about God,
their eyes open with wonder. A few can not
yet understand my English words. When the
little ones, so lately in heathenism, recite such
lines as, " Suffer little children to come unto
me," " Now I lay me down to sleep," &c., my
heart overflows with thanksgiving. There are
often several grown men who come to be taught,
so that the classes as they stand before the tab-
lets vary from the full-sized man to the toddling
child.

The group in the barre is a never-ceasing ob-
ject of curiosity to those without. A mucli
frequented path leads past the building, and the
passers-by often stop and watch us eagerly, chat
in their native tongue, and laugh. Some conio
within the yard, and, hiding themselves behind
a mud wall, peer round the corner with gaping
mouth and wide-open eyes. The kitchen oppo-

ir.l VSIDE TEACUINGS.

147

site is full of loungers. A heathen woman
brings a tub of water, sets it down in front of
the barrc, and proceeds to wash her children,
the little sufibrei's meanwhile screaming at the
top of their voices. Having done this, she
stripes their shinuig black faces and bodies
with white chalk, adorns them with rings, gree-
grees, and little tinkling bells, and sends them
off to play. Another woman brings her crying
children, and seats herself on the edge of the
barre. A tall Mohammedan from the interior,
adorned with unnumbered rings, " medicines,"
and charms, pauses and sits down. Three or
four others join the group, and all watch us as
though it were a show.

But listen to that noise. A " boondoo " pro-
cession is passing. It consists of a dozen women,
who keep up a constant song or chant. Some-
times they walk along, singing, clapping their
hands, and shaking a gourd covered with loose
beads ; sometimes they go on a sort of half-run,
giving now and then a deafening shout. They
are dressed in cloths wound round their bodies,
and adorned with heathen ornaments.

118

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Amid such scenes the hours pass, and at the
close we kneel and repeat together the Lord's
Prayer, which many have learned. The children
crowd round mc with smiling faces, and a dozen
hands are held out at once, while " Good-by,
sir ! " echoes from every side. A few follow me
to the wharf, and watch me as I glide homeward
iii my light canoe.

CHAPTER XL

SABBATH LABORS.

I EC. 21. — Yesterday, after the morning
service in the chapel, I went to a little vil-
lage a half-mile distant to preach. Horace
accompanied me. We walked along a nar-
row path tlirougli a mangrove swamp, Avhich is
overflowed at high tide. The water was low as
we passed, and by jumping across an occasional
pool we succeeded in reaching the village.
There were not more than ten houses in the
place, and the people did not understand Eng-
lish. We could not find a tree large enough
to hold the meeting under it, and so the people
gathered in the shade of one of the mud-walled
huts. We began with singing, and then Hor-
ace read the seventh chapter of Matthew in
Sherbro, and I offered prayer through an in-

149

150 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFPJCA.

torpreter. Next I spoke for a short time about
Christ and our need of salvation, in as simple
language as possible, stopping every few words
to have it interpreted. Horace, who is a mem-
ber of our mission church, followed with a
few remarks, and we closed with prayer. The
people listened with attention, saying that no
one else had ever preached there. Our audi-
ence comprised a dozen adults and several chil-
dren, yet these were nearly all the inhabitants.

Leaving this small village, we walked along
a shady path to Bonthc, a large town, many of
whose people speak English. The meetings
are held in a barre, near the center of the place.
A good-sized audience assembled, to whom we
spoke from the words, " And ye will not come
unto me that ye might have life." Opposite
the barre is the kitchen of the town, and du-
ring the services I noticed several country
women engaged in their work. A short recess
followed the preaching, and then a Sabbath
school was held. It was nearly night when tlie
school closed, and the tide was up so that wo

SAIID.lT/r LABOUS.

could not walk home. The chief, however,
kindly sent iis in a log canoe.

Dec. 25. — Last Sabbath I gathered about
Uiirty people in Bro. Jewett's school-room. 1
took James for an interpreter. Hardly one of
my audience attends the chapel services, as they
do not 'understand English. I hoped to get a
dozen together, and was agreeably disappointed
to see so many. Mr. Jewett and James went
about to their houses, and sent them in one by
one. Some, as they came to the door, woidd
stop and hesitate, as though afraid to enter ;
but as I pointed them to a seat, they would
come in half bont, with a gliding, frightened
motion. As I stood iip to address that little,
strange-looking company of heathen in the mud-
walled school-liouse, I felt very deeply my need
of strength from above. Our services were
much as iisual. More than ever do I perceive
that it is not by might, nor by power, Init by
the Iloly Spirit, that souls are led to Jesus.

A week ago I preached at Bendoo, a thriving
village some live miles away. A boat was sent
Ibr mo in the morning, and after an hour's ride,

152 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFPdCA.

getting aground several times on the sand-ljaiiks,
we reached the landing. I was warmly wel-
comed by several of the people at the beach.
An audience of a hundred and twenty-nine as-
sembled in the chapel, which is commodious,
with rude seats, mud walls, thatched roof, and
sand floor. Through the open windows came
the breath of the tropics, and the noon-day sun-
shine rested on the luxuriant vegetation of this
land of fruits and flowers. Everything was
hushed and quiet, and as I looked on the neatly-
dressed congregation before me, my heart over-
flowed with thanksgiving that I had been per-
mitted to witness such a sight on Africa's shores.

Jan. 23. — Last Sabbath was a beautiful day,
with a fine breeze. About nine I started for
Keilah, distant some four miles. It was very
pleasant sailing over the sparkling river that
quiet morning, and I thanked God that I was
tlius permitted to go from place to place, bear-
ing the glad tidings of salvation to those who
sit in darkness. I was welcomed by the chief,
who soon called his people together. I stood
in tlie piazza of his country house, but most of

SABBATH LABORS.

153

the congregation were sitting on tlie ground
under a large mango tree. They gazed ear-
nestly into my face as I spoke awhile of Christ
and tlieir need of salvation. I promised to
meet them again in two weeks, and, bidding
them good-by, returned to Good Hope. Aftar
a half hour's rest and a lunch, I started for
Bonthe. A goodly number were gathered in
the barrc. I had preached in the same place
the Sabbath before, and now one man came to
mc wishing to be married to the woman with
whom he had lived for some time, saying that
he had been thinking about death, and he want^
ed to break off his sins. It was cheering to see
that the truth had made some impression upon
him. It was near night when I returned home,
much wearied, but happy. These little gather-
ings in heathen towns and villages are very
pleasant to the missionary. I shall not soon
forget the Sabbaths spent under the mango
tree or in the barre.

Feb. 1. — Leaving Keilah, we crossed over to
Dumbuco, a village that was plundered a year
ago by a war-party from the interior. It is dif-

151

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFPJCA.

ficult to get there at low tide, a wide strip of
swamp intervening between the river-side and
the town. A narrow, winding ciianncl has been
dug through it, which is filled with water when
the tide is up. "We passed up this channel, the
boat sometimes touching one side and some-
times the other. A few men stood watching us
as we landed. I inquired for the chief, but he
was not at home. A young man, however, con-
ducted mo to the house of the chiefs mother,
an old woman, vdio was lying sick in a small
country house. She spoke broken English, and
seemed pleased when I told her that I had come
to talk about God. She called the people into
her little house, and Horace interpreted for me
as I tried to tell that group of heathen the story
of the cross. The country house where we held
the meeting was very rude and small. My com-
panion and I sat on a rough box. Some of tlie
heathen women seemed afraid to enter, ]iut they
finally ventured to come and crouch on the l)ar{l
nuid floor, and lean against the clay-plastered
wall. It was a strange but interesting scene as
I stood up {o preach in that rude luit, with tho

SABDATII LABORS.

interpreter at my side. As we commenced the
meeting there was some talking and noise, but
t)>e people soon became silent, and listened at-
tentively. The chief's mother thanked us re-
peatedly for coming. We left with those feelings
that tlie missionary among the heathen knows
so well from experience when he has been try-
ing in weakness and imperfection to sow the
gospel seed.

Ang. 8. — Yesterday was the holy Sabbath.
It dawned

"With breath all incense,
And with cheek all bloom."

After the long weeks of constant, heavy rains,
it seemed very delightful to see such a beautiful
morning. The sky was a soft, deep blue ; the
sunshine rested on the shining leaves of the
trees ; the river lay bright and still, just rippled
by the light, cooling breeze ; and the sweet song
of birds came in through the open windows.
The ride to York Island in the little blue boat,
my " Sabbath home," was delightful ; and all
tlie way my soul welled up in a hymn of praise
to God for the beauties that were visible. On-

15G , GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

ward Avc sped, now dashing across a wide strip
of blue, sparkling water, now creeping close
along the shore of a mangrove island, to avoid
the furious tide ; now gliding over huslicd wa-
ters, and now gently rocked by shining wavelets ;
overhead the most entrancing of tropical skies,
dotted with floating clouds of fleecy white ; the
distant horizon tinted with violet and azure ;
on, meeting now and then a log canoe, witli its
half-naked paddlers ; on, past the queer little
town of Yellebanah, sleeping in the rich sun-
light ; round " the point," and then, borne
by the swift tide, quickly wo reach the land-
ing-place. The brown mud houses, with their
thatched roofs, clustered beneath the giant cot-
ton-trees and groves of cocoa, look very prettily.
The little bell was already ringing as I stepped
upon the beach, and soon a goodly congregatio'.i
had gathered in the spacious, airy coimtry house
where our meetings are held. I spoke from the
first and second verses of the one hundred and
thirty-ninth Psalm. The groups seated around
me listened with attention. I was cheered by
the cordial welcome which I received, after be-

SABBATH LABOnS.

157

ing detained from them for two weeks by sick-
ness.

From York Isiand to Bontlie I had another
refreshing hour on the water. As we rounded
the last mangrove island and came in sight of
the long shore, the scene was striking. The
horizon was clear, and here and there rose state-
ly palms and giant cotton-trees. Seven villages
were in sight ; and as we passed along, now and
then a boat or canoe could bo seen gliding over
the shining river. Far to the south-east, vailed
with the lightest of haze, lay the shore of the
continent. My audience was attentive, but not
large, and the Sabbath school was deeply inter-
esting.

In the beautiful moonlight eve we had ;i sol-
emn meeting in the chapel. Oh that God's
Spirit might be abundantly poured out upon
us !

Oct. 18. — The absence of our small boat pre-
vented my usual Sabbath preaching tour, but the
day was not without its labors. Immediately
after breakfast I went with my interpreter to a
heathen village near by, hoping to bo able to

158

GLIMPSES 01'' WEST AFIUCA.

tell of Jesus to some who do not understand
English. AVe found a group of people in one
of the yards, seated together in a favorable po-
sition. Among them Avero several strangers
from Gallinas, who had never before heard the
word. I told them it was God's day, and we
had come to talk to them about him. They
thanked me, and said they would listen. One
intelligent-looking woman, who seemed to be a
sort of leader, did most of the talking. She
wore an abundance of gree-grees on her neck
and wrists. I related in simple words the story
of God's love for us, and my young man inter-
preted. As I ended I invited them to ask any
questions about the subject which they might
wish. The head woman said that they had
heard my word ; it was true ; they thanked me
for it ; they would remember it when they went
home, and would try to obey God's teachings,
and pray to him, I asked her why she wore
gree-grees.

" They keep my life in me," she answered.
I told her of the folly of such a trust, and that
they did not help her at all. I asked lier if she

SADBATII LAUOnS.

159

Bxipposcd that if she were drowning in the river
tlie grce-grees could save her.

" Yes," she quickly replied.

" But I am alive," said I, " and do not wear
grce-grees ; and so are many other people."

" But you are ditferent from xis ; if I was in
America I would take them olf, but here I do
not dare to," she answered. "A mnrray-man
gave them to me, and I have worn them ever
since I was a little girl."

I told her that God was angry with us if we
trusted in anything but him.

" You are different from us," she said ; " you
arc white and we are black."

" But God says that he has made of one
blood all nations that dwell on the earth, and
he will jjunish black and white alike for tlieir
sins."

She made no reply, and I continued : " You
say that you believe there is but one God ; that
is true ; so there can be but one way to serve
him, and go where he dwells ; and if we trust
in gree-greos, we do not walk in that way."

Wo continued our conversation for some

ICO

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

tiino tlirougli the interpreter. She clung to
her gree-grees, though she could give no reasou
v/hy they should help her. She gave evidence
of possessing a good mind, but it was crushed
and blighted by heathenism and its supersti-
tions. As I left, she said, " I thank you for
what you have told me ; may God grant us both
long life." Oh tliat the seed sown in her heart
on that Sabbath morning may bear fruit to eter-
nal life !

Returning from Gondamar, I attended the
morning services at the chapel. At half-past
three came the Sabbath school. The attend-
ance was good, and the hoiir passed pleasantly,
closing by singing, " I have a Father in the
promised land." Tlie evening was clear and
calm, with a full moon. I preached to a large
audience from the words, " Jesus Christ, the
same yesterday, and to-day, and for ever."

CHAPTER XII.

A MISSIONARY TOUR.

PRIL 25. — Having a favorable opportu-
nity, and feeling the need of a change, I
left home on Tuesday morning for a short
trip towards the interior of the country.
The little blue boat, my Sabbath home, was
rigged and manned, and we started about half-
past ten. The day was one of the brightest
and most beautiful that the tropics afford, and
the ride for the first few hours was delightful ;
but while crossing the bar at the moutli of the
Bargroo, the water became frightfully roiigh.
A strong wind blew from the sea, and the waves
rolled like ocean-billows. It seemed as though
our little boat would be overwhelmed, bu.t it
rode gracefully over the towering waves, thoiigh
the spray and bill(^ws broke over its side till we

1C2 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFItlCA.

became tlioroughly drenched. Soon the water
became smoother, and following the wuiduigs
of the Bargi'oo and the crooked Mahno, wo
reached Avery station about five P. M. Bro.
Jcwett gave me a cordial w^elcome, and we
spent a pleasant evening in social converse and
prayer.

Bro. Jewett kindly offered to accompany me
on my journey to King Sissiwuru's town ; and
having made the needful arrangements, we left
early on Wednesday morning. One of the
king's sons was at Mahno, and we secured him
as a guide. We returned to the mouth of the
Mahno, and then entered the comparatively
unknown Bargroo. The weather was bright
and beautiful, the air soft and warm. We
had a double object in the trip, — to tell the
story of redeeming love in town and village,
and to see and explore new regions.

We soon reached Yoggeh, a pleasant little
town, situated in a palm-grove, on the left bank
of the Bargroo. We landed at a large timber-
factory near by, and walked to the old town
of Yoggeh, passing several, " country-fashion

A MISSIONARY TOUR.

163

liouscR," built over portions of bug-a-bug liills.
The Iniul is elevated, the air fresh, the water
cool, and many villages are seen a little back
from tlio river. The groves of graceful palms
diversified the appearance of the country.

Before ten wo reached Kcrrehhoo, a line-
looking town on a bluff, with a back-ground of
tropical foliage ; but wo had no time to call.
Boyond Kerrchhoo the Bargroo grows narrower,
and both banks are lined with large, tall man-
groves, and hills and forests a little way back.
TliO bright sunlight, a fresh breeze, and an easy,
swift boat, made the voyage delightful.

Just beyond Kerrehhoo, we passed Mahno
Mountain, a high elevation, partly covered with
trees. This mountain is regarded as a kind of
sacred place by the people, the residence of tlio
great spirit Kasilon, before spoken of. At noon
we passed Tassaw, a large town on the left bank
of the stream. The people came in throngs to
the river-side, to watch us as we passed. The
country in the vicinity is hilly and rocky, and
the river winding. Some two miles above Tas-
saw we left the Bargroo, and entered Mosandy

IGi GLIMVSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Creok, a small river whose general course i3
from the north-east. A short distance from the
river-side there are beautiful groves of palm,
and hills covered with forests. A half-hour
further brought us to the town of Mosandy,
situated on a slight elevation amid clusters of
palms. Here, too, the people came flocking to
the river-bank, but we could not stop. I no-
ticed several little " country-fashion houses "
perched on a high bank under the trees.

About 2 p. M. we arrived at Gondamar, be-
yond which we could not pass in our boat, on
account of rocks. Taking a present in my
hand, I called on Boondookeh, the king, and
asked permission to leave the boat in his care.
He consented, and all the portable articles were
brought up, and shown to him, separately, so
that nothing might be lost ; they were then
carefully packed away in his house. "We knew
that he would regard his promise as sacred, and
that our things would be as safe as if defended
by an armed guard. Without resting, we started
forward on foot, intending to stop at the first
town and cook our food. Our path lay through

A MissioyAnr tour.

1G5

ail open field, dotted with palms, while hills
could b3 seen rising in the distance. A short
walk brought us to Mo Bak, a new town, be-
longing to Sissiwuru. "While the men wore
cooking, Bar Bak, the king, called some of his
licoijle together, and we preached to them
tlu'ough an interpreter. They spread their
mats on the ground at our feet, and sat down,
gazing earnestly at us, as we told them of God
and the Saviour, occasionally clapping their
hands, or making some exclamation of approval.
After talking a while, we invited them to ask
us any questions that they might wish to on
the subject. In the course of my remarks, I
had tried to show them the importance of pray-
ing to the great God who made xis, instead of
offering sacrifice to spirits, worshiping bug-a-
bug hills and gree-grees ; and now they eagerly
inquired, " How can we pray so that God can
hear us ? " I tried to explain, and they seemed
to comprehend. Bro. Jewett talked to them for
some time with great plainness and earnestness,
to which they listened with deep attention.
Wc then joined in a short, simple prayer, whicU

ICG

GLIMPSES Oi'' WEST AFniCA.

was iutcrprctccl into Sherbro. At tlie close, I
told tliom that I hoped they would not forget
th3 words we had spoken to them when we were
far away, and never shall I forget the remark-
ablo answer I received. It came from a hea-
tlicu woman, ignorant of a word of English,
who probably had never before heard of the
Saviour from the lips of any one. She said,
" Suppose you take a cassada-stick, cut it in
two, a!id plant the pieces in the ground ; soon
it v>^ill sprout and grow.* So it will be with the
word you drop in our hearts to-day ; it can not
die, but when you are far away it will spring
up and grow." Oh, how that answer, coming
from such a source, tlirilled my soul, and re-
buked my lack of faith ! It was perfectly in ac-
cordance with the teachings of God's word, ar.d
no divine could have expressed it more forci-
bly.

We left Mo Bak about four o'clock in the af-
ternoon. The nearest town on our route was

* Referring to the mode of propagating the cassada in iVfrica.
When planted it seems a di'y stick, but it soon grows to a large,
fioarishing busli.

A MISSION'AnY TOUn.

1G7

more than twenty miles distant, and our path
lay through a dense forest, infested with tigers,
leopards, and elephants ; hut I felt that my
time was so limited that I could not afford to
delay until morning. Our party consisted of
eight, — the son of King Sissiwuru for a guide,
Bro. Jewctt and myself, and five men to carry
our liglit luggage. We started forward at a
swift pace, and soon plunged into a thick, heavy
forest. Tiie road was a mere narrow foot-path,
very crooked and rough, and we "were often
compelled to creep through the dense bush
around some fallen tree, or crawl over the trunk
for twenty or tlurty feet. At first our company
was somewhat scattered, and the path was so
winding that we frequently lost sight of cacli
other. Tlie men in advance occasionally gave
a shrill cry, which was answered by those hi
the rear ; and now and then, as I strode swiftly
onward, I caught sight of some one flying past
a corner just befoi'e me. Towards sunset we
reached a clear mountain stream, dashing over
the rocks, and stopped a moment to quench
our thirst with tlie cool, sparkliiig water. Again

108

CLlilPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

wc pressed rapidly on, wishing to get as far as
possible before darkness should set in. The
country was hilly and rocky, the forest trees
large and lofty, with a thick growtli of under-
bi-ush. Night soon overtook us in the midst of
the forest, many miles from the nearest town.
The sky was beautifully clear, and the moon
nearly full, but the spreading brandies of tlie
forest trees formed such an impenetrable arch
that only now and then did a single ray of the
soft moonlight pierce through, and rest like
silver on tlie green shrubs by our path. We
were compelled to moderate our pace a little,
and wallv as close to each other as possible, the
guide carefully leading the way. Sometimes
the path conducted us through a valley shrouded
in almost total darkness, and we had to exer-
cise the utmost caution to prevent falling over
loose roots and stones. We knew that v/ild
beasts roamed thi'ough the forest seckhig for
prey, but owv faculties, both of body and mind,
were so taxed in making our way through the
bush, that we had no time to fear, or scarcely
to tliiuk of them. Our guide was faithful, and,

.4 MfSSIOX.inY TOUR.

IG'J

heathen man though he was, quite "won my
heart by his kindness. At every rough spot or
difficult place he would stop, hold out his hand,
and lead me gently over it. Often, during that
uight walk, I thought of the cheering answer of
the poor heathen woman at Mo Bak, and my
heart was encouraged.

Hour after hour we pressed forward in silenco,
and towards midnight reached a little clearing,
in which stood the town of Mo Cassy. The peo-
ple were still up, and crowded round us as we
entered. I carried a present to the king, and
told him we wished to rest in his town that
uight, and he at once provided us with a house.
As we were reclining on mats in the rude piaz-
za, I noticed that the people still lingered about
in groups, conversing in their language, or watch-
ing us ; so I sent word to the king that if he
would call theiu together we would talk " God-
word." They soon gathered to the number of
seventy or eighty, and spreading their mats on
the white sand in front of our mud-walled hut,
they sat down to listen. The scene was strange
and interesting. The hour was midnight ; the

170

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFPJCA.

place, a rude town iu tlio midst of an African
forest ; the hearers, a group of lieatben sitting
on mats at our feet ; and over all rested the
rich, soft light of a tropical moon. Though
weary with our long night's walk, we rejoiced at
the opportunity of repeating in their eavs the
story of redeeming love. The interpreter was
not very skillful, but the people seemed to un-
derstand most that we said, and asked several
questions. Perhaps none present had ever be-
fore heard about God from the lips of a mis-
sionary.

We were objects of much curiosity to the
people. They were specially pleased with my
watch and the glass lantern. At first, if the
lantern chanced to be moved towards them,
they sprang suddenly back, but soon lost their
fear. We slept soundly that night on mats
spread on the mud floor, very grateful to our
kind heavenly Father for the manifold mercies
of that eventful day and evening.

Early the next morning we again started for-
ward. Near the town wo passed some graves,
on wliich a tin cup and a few other small ard-

A MJsswyAnr touu.

171

clcs had boon laid as sacrifices to the spirits of
the dead. The country grew more hilly and
rocky as we advanced, and occasionally we had
to climb a steep ascent, or cross a deep gorga
on a narrow tree-trunk. A rapid walk of a:i
hour and a half brought us to the large rice
farms of Sissiwuru. Some single fields consist-
ed of thirty or forty acres. The trees and bush
had been cut and set on fii'C, but large black-
ened trunks and limbs were lying in every di-
rection, so that our passage Avas rendered difii-
cult. A little beyond these fields Ave came to
Wallah, the capital of King Sissiwuru's country.
We passed in through the double gates, and
were at once conducted to the royal house,
where the king, surrounded by his chief coun-
selors, was sitting in state to receive us. Yv"e
were shown into the house that Itad been pre-
pared for us, a messenger having been dispatched
in advance to inform the king of our coming.
Mats were spread on the smooth clay floor,
and a dish of rice and fish set before us. Wo
did it full justice, and after having shaken hands
with a large luimber of people, a couch of mats

172

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

and country cloths was prepared, and we were
invited to lie down and rest. Tlie royal house
which Sissiwuru set apart for me (probably be-
cause, being white, I was a greater curiosity
than Bro. Jewett), was really a neat building.
Like all African houses, it was constructed of
clayey mud, but the walls were hard, smooth,
and almost white. They were adorned on the
outside with various rudely sketched figures,
and on the inside hung with handsome mats
and leopard-skins. The floor was smooth and
solid. Bro. Jewett's house, a little way off.
v/as also well furnished.

After resting myself, tlie window and door
meanwhile thronged with a curious group watch-
ing my every motion, I selected a few presents
and carried them to the king. Sissiwuru is a
tall, dignified man, with a massive frame and
majestic appearance. He was dressed in a flow-
ing robe, somewhat ornamented, reaching a lit-
tle below his knees ; his feet were bare ; a white
sash was tied around his head, and in his hand
he held a sort of scepter. He is the richest and
most powerful king in the whole region, and

A MISSlOjUAIir Toun.

173

has four oi' five walled towns, beside large num-
bers of villages. Sissiwuru has been a noted
warrior, and has achieved many victories over
neighboring tribes ; but now he expressed a de-
sire to live in peace with all. He is quite aged,
but seems to have lost none of his native vigor
and energy.

In company with his son, I passed around
the town, and outside the gates. "Wallah is
very strongly fortified for an African town.
The houses are necessarily very near each other,
the thatched roofs often touching ; and as there
are no streets, a stranger will be quite likely to
lose his way. Most of the houses are neat and
substantial, and look really pretty, with their
smooth, brown walls and covering of thatch.
Many kitchens and barres, opening on one and
sometimes all four sides, are scattered throiigh
the town, and in them the people often gather
for conversation. The king's barre is the most
beautiful country building that I have seen in
Africa. It is circular in form, and the smooth
thatched roof runs to a point, which is sur.
mounted by a small cupola, and a figure of a

174 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

bird carved in wood. Two or tlirce steps lead
up to the smooth floor. Four wooden pillars
support tlic roof. A smooth wall rises round
the elevated floor to the hight of some two feet,
and, though composed of a kind of mud, it ap-
pears as hard and smooth as freestone. Two
miniature cannon, perfectly formed from the
same substance, are placed on the wall at the
two entrances ; and on one side is a sort of
carved chair, also of mud. A large hammock
is suspended in one part of the barre, in which
the king spends much of his time, surrounded
by fifteen or twenty of his chief men, who lie
on leopard-skins, or sit on the low, polished wall.
Most of them are armed with long, keen swords
of native manufacture.

I spent some time in this barre during the
day conversing with the king ; and the novelty
of a white face always drew a crowd together.
A laugh was often raised by the sudden screams
of terror from the smaller children whenever I
chanced to approach them. Doubtless, many
of the people had never before seen a white
man. If we walked through the town, a group

A MISSIONARY TOUR.

175

of twenty or thirty wd'O sure to follow, watch-
ing every motion ; and whichever way I turned
I was certain to meet staring eyes.

Outside the walls of the town, the forest is
cleared for some distance, so that no enemy can
creep up unseen. Large numbers of African
sheep, and a few cows, feed here during the
day, but are driven within the walls at night.
The Mahno river passes near Wallah, hut dur-
ing the dry season it is a mere brooklet. Its
bed is filled with immense rocks. The country
in the vicinity is hilly and stony, and the trees
very large and lofty. The soil is rich, produc-
ing luxuriant crops with but little labor. The
air is pure, the water cleas, and the region alto-
gether a delightful one. A chain of mountains,
covered with heavy forests, lies to the north-
west of Wallah. They are called by the natives
tlie Koler Mountains, and are infested with
tigers. Elephants are abundant in those for-
ests, and arc often killed. Some of Sissiwuru's
people were on an elephant-hunt while we were
there. Several large walled towns, and many
villages, are situated within a few hours' walk

17G

GJAMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

of Wallah ; but our time was too limited to
permit us to visit them.

After a pleasant day in the place, wo asked
permission to preach, and the king promised to
call tlie people together in the evening, when
they came in from their farms. At twilight
the town began to be thronged. Kitchen and
barre were filled with talkative groups, passing
to and fro. An hour after dark a messenger
went around calling to the people to assemble
in the name of the king. Bro. Jewett and my-
self had been sitting together, conversing and
reading, and as we stepped out into the open
space between the royal barre and the king's
house, a sight met my eyes which I shall never
forget. Barre, piazza, and country house were
full, and tier upon tier of people were sitting
on the white sand at our feet, forming a complete
circle. Every eye was bent upon me. Over-
head, in the tropical sky, rode the full moon,
shedding its soft light on the scene, and a few
stars looked faintly down. Standing in the
midst of this interesting congregation, I told
them in simple words about God and Chiist.

A mssiONAnr Toun.

177

All interpretei' stood at my side, and rendered
what I said into Sherbro. Another, with a
commanding figure and a powerful voice, tliat
could be lieard far away, took the words from
him and turned them into Mendi, so tliat all
might understand. The people listened atten-
tively, now and then making some sign of appro-
bation. Bro. Jewett followed with some excel-
lent remarks, and some questions were asked
by the people. We closed with a short prayer,
which also went through two interpreters. In
the course of the prayer I remembered the king
particularly, and at the close of every petition
relating to liim the people on all sides clapped
tlieir hands enthusiastically. This showed us
that they loved tlieir king, and understood, too,
wliat we were saying. After the prayer, they
soon scattered through the town, discussing
among themselves what they had just lieard.
From a partial count, we judged that more than
three hundred were present.

Early the next morning, we made prepara-
tions to return. Sissiwuru sent us a present
of a slieep and fowls, and expressed much anx-

12

178

GLIMPSES OF WEST AEJUCA.

iety to have a school established in his town.
Our procession, as it issued from the gates of
Wallah and wound along the narrow path, num-
hored some thirty. Several of the king's sons
and war-men, armed with swords, accompanied
ns as an escort. About a mile from the place,
most of them bade us good-bj and returned,
thougli a few continued with us through the
day. We pressed rapidly on over the rough,
winding path, reaching Mo Gassy about ten,
A. M. Wc merely paused to get a drink of wa-
ter, and bid Karfungbu, the king, good-by, and
then continued our journey. Hardly a ray of
the noonday sun pierced through the overhang-
ing branches of the trees, but still the air was
very hot. Hour after hour passed, and we con-
tinued our rapid pace, till I felt like sinking to
the earth with fatigue.

Towards night we reached Gondamar, where
we had left our boat, having walked thirty miles
over a rough path without stopping. Wc were
just in season to obtain shelter from a lieavy
tornado. While the men were cooking, we
threw ourselves on some mats in the king's

A M!ssioif.iRY roun.

179

house to rest. Every article that we had Ijffc
in Booiidookeh's care was safe. The tornado
was soon over, and the setting sun came out in
all its glory hehiud a grove of palms. The king
summoned his people, and while the men were
rigging the hoat we preached in tlie barre to an
attentive audience of eighty. They said that
they believed the word we spoke was true, and
they would try to pray to God, and had some
questions to ask about him. They seemed to
receive the gospel with gladness ; oh that those
few words might be blessed to their salvation !
A few feet from where I stood was a sort of al-
tar, on which sacrifices are offered to spirits.

Bidding Boondookeh good-by, we hastened to
the boat, nearly the whole town following ns.
Soon we were gliding swiftly down Mosandy
Creek in the beautiful moonliglit. After the
weary walk of the day, we were well prepared
to enjoy the quiet scene. It was really lovely
Avhen wo entered the Bargroo. . Above us
stretched the clear, blue heavens ; far to the
south glowed the mild Southern Cross, and low
iu the northern sky wo could just distinguish

180 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

the north star. The ascending moon flooded
the river with silvery light, save where the bor-
dering mangroves cast a dark, weird shade.
Now and then we passed a picturesque town on
tlic river bank. It was almost midnight when
we reached Avery. The next day I returned to
Good Hope, feeling that truly God had fulfilled
to me those sweet promises recorded in the
ninety-first Psalm.

CHAPTER XIII.

SIEHRA LEONE.

HE English colony of Sierra Leone is somO'
times called " the stronghold of missions "
?^ on the coast of West Africa. And per-
haps it deserves that name, for it is indeed
a bright spot, from whence good influences are
being diffused among the surrounding tribes.
In many respects it is far inferior to Liberia,
yet as a missionary center it may be regarded
as fully its equal.

The colony was established about a century
ago, and occupies a peninsula containing some
three hundred square miles. This peninsula is
situated in latitude 8° 30' N., and is Iwunded
on one side by the Sierra Leone River, and on
the other by the Atlantic Ocean. Its scenery is
said to he finer than that of any other point on

181

182

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

til 8 western coast of Africa. No traveler, ap-
proacliing its harbor after a weary sca-voyagc,
can remain an indifferent spectator of the scene
that rises before his eyes. At first tlie moun-
tains loom up faint and blue, lying cloud-like
in the far horizon ; but, as he nears the coast,
each peak gradually assumes its own peculiar
shape, and, crowned with a wealth of foliage,
towers against a back-ground of dreamy tropical
sky. A few green open slopes and cultivated
patches, with here and there a pretty village
perched on the hill-side, vary the prospect ; while
on a narrow plain, between the foot of the moun-
tain and the Sierra Leone River, lies Freetown,
the chief city, and capital of the colony. A few
vessels are anchored iu the harbor, and opposite
the town, across the bay-like moutli of the river,
the eye discovers the low, level Buliom shore,
stretching away in the distance. Over all rests
that soft haze which is peculiar to the tropics,
hiding every harsh outline and uncouth feature,
and causing the whole view to seem almost like
the scenery of a fairy tale. The graceful palms,
that stand like sentinels along the beach, tlicir

SIKnn.i LEOXE.

183

lo'.ig plumes bonding idly in the air ; the bcau-
liliil cocoa-nut, with its clusters of fruit sur
rounding the parent stem ; the luxuriant or-
chards of l)anana and plantain, loaded with huge
bunches of ripening fruit, and the long, broad
leaves shining in the sunlight ; the pyramidal
broad-fruit, the fragrant orange, the blossoming
lime-hedge, with numerous otiier foreign-look-
ing trees, shrubs, and flowering vines, all con-
spire to rivet the gazo of the looker-on, and fill
him with admiration.

In a commercial point of view. Sierra Leone
is a place of some importance. Vessels from
all parts of tlic world frequent its harbor, bring-
ing tho merchandise of other countries in ex-
change for palm-oil, hides, ground-nuts, &c.,
which are procured up the rivers, and brought
down by native traders in rude canoes. Several
foreign traders liave established themselves in
the colony, and are doing a thriving business in
this trade ; but a lai'go part of the business of
Sierra Leone is transacted through the native
merchants. Some of these exhibit a good deal
of sagacity, and have acquired considerable

184 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

wealth. Many of tliem have had to sti'ugglo
with great difficulties, and by their perseverance
have overcome obstacles at which even £ome
New England boys would have been daunted.
The history of many a Sierra Leone man effect-
ually shows that the African is possessed of
more native ability than many have been wont
to believe. One of the leading merchants whom
I met there was stolen when a child from the
far interior. Fortunately, the vessel in which
he was confined was captured by the English
fleet, and he was liberated at Freetown. But
he was a poor boy, alone among strangers, and
surrounded by heathen influences. He strug-
gled on amid many trials and disappointments,
and now he owns a store in Freetown which
would be no disgrace to an American city ; and,
what is better, he is an active Christian man.
Other cases, as marked as this, might be nar-
rated, and, if the history were fully given, it
would certainly contain many touching inci-
dents and strange, wild adventures, as well as
forcibly illustrate the power of well-directed ef-
fort even in heathen Africa.

SIERRA LEONE.

185

The population of Sierra Lconc is variously
estimated. Its chief city, Freetown, is supposed
to contain tliirty thousand inhabitants ; and per-
haps there are as many more in the towns and
villages scattered among the romantic hills and
valleys of the colony. The population may he
divided into three classes, — foreign residents,
educated natives, and common people. There
are also many subdivisions of the people depend-
ing on the tribe or country from which they
originally came. The foreign residents are few
in number, and comprise missionaries, govern-
ment officers, and traders. The missionaries
are chiefly supported by the Established Clmrch,
and Wesleyan Methodist, Societies of England,
and, notwithstanding the idle tales of want of
success, told by some travelers who have spent
three or four days in the colony, and gone away
laden with that superabundant wisdom which
such temporary sojourns always beget, they are
doing a most excellent work. It must bo con-
fessed, however, that the influence of many of
the traders and government officials is anything
but favorable to the morals of the people. Tlie

186

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA,

second class, educated natives, comprise minis-
ters, lawyers, physicians, editors, teachers, mer-
chants, mechanics, and others who have enjoyed
the advantages of schools. The attainments of
some arc very limited, but a few would rank
quite high as scholars. The educated class is
increasing year by year, and it is hoped that
they will soon outnumber the lower class, who
now form the larger part of tlio population.
Many of tlie latter profess Christianity, but tlioy
mingle with their worship and belief many rel-
ics of heathenism. Others still cling to their
olden ways.

A few of the early settlers of Sierra Leoiiq
came from Nova Scotia, — free negroes, who had
aided tlie British during the American Revolu-
tionary war, and for whom they felt bound to
provide ; but nearly all of the present inhab-
itants are " liberated Africans " and their de-
scendants. The term " liberated Africans " is
applied to such as have been rescued from slavo-
barracoons and slave-ships on the African coast.
Sierra Leone, consequently, is almost entirely
peopled by those who have been rescued from

Si I EUR A LEONE.

187

the fearful doom of slavery, and have found
here a refuge and a home.

Freetown, the capital and chief tov/n of tlio
colony, is a city of strange extremes. Civiliz.i-
tion and barbarism meet in its streets and walic
side by side. The contrasts are striking, and
sometimes ludicrous. Hero goes an English
lady, with rustling silks and spotless muslin ;
and closely following is a poor heathen woman,
half naked, with chalk-marked face and gro-
tesquely-braided hair. Yonder is a Freiiclunan,
attired in the latest Parisian styles ; and a few
steps behind him a stately Mohammedan from
the interior, his flowing robe reaching from his •
shoulders nearly to the ground, and his arms
and neck hung with an abundance of gree-grees.
Market-women go chatting along the streets,
balancing their "blies" of fruit and vegetables
on tiieir heads ; and little children, destitute of
any covering, toddle after them. Tiicrc is no
roar of carriages, but the ever-passing throngs
keep up a constant stream of talk, varied with
frequent shrill exclamations and bursts of laugh-
ter. This noise sometimes becomes almost deaf-

188

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFniCA.

eiiing, especially in the narrow streets, which
are lined with shops, where excited crowds
gather round the different stands, eagerly intent
on driving a bargain. Many of tlie joeople, in
their intercourse with each other, use the lan-
guage of the tribe to which they belong ; and
as there are representatives of sixty or seventy
tribes in Freetown, as many different languages
are spoken. Nearly all, however, speak a
broken English, which furnishes a iiniversal
medium of communication.

The foreign residents and better class of na-
tives live in frame or stone houses, often fur-
0 nished luxuriantly with carpets, sofas, and other
articles of furniture imported from Europe.
The larger portion of the houses, however, are
built in native style, and of course are very
rude.

Some extracts from my journal during a
brief residence in Sierra Leone, though they
may prove somewhat egotistic, will, perhaps,
give a better picture of life there than any
general remarks that I can make. The first
extract will relate more particularly to a journey

smnru leone.

189

from our mission to Freetown, a distance of
about a luindred miles.

Freetown, Aug. 29. — We were obliged to
leave Good Hope for a short sojourn among the
hills, on account of Mrs. Whiton's failing health.
The morning was cloudy and wet, and as we
bade good-by to the group gathered on the
wharf, a strange feeling of sadness crept over
us. We had ten oarsmen, a captain, and one
of the mission girls. Our little " Olive Branch"
was quite comfortable, with its rain-awning and
mattress-cushioned seats, pillows, sliawls, &c.
Mrs. W. lay weak and sick on one side, and I
sat on the other, while trunks and boxes formed
a barricade in front. At "the Point" we an-
chored for half an hour for the men to eat
breakfast, and then, as a breeze sprung up, we
glided along the island shore, passing now and
then a village reposing among palms and trop-
ical trees. About two P. M. we passed Jenkins,
where in 1816 Samuel J. Mills came to select
a spot for the colonization of free colored peo-
ple from the United States. The first ship-load
was landed there, many of whom died in a few.

190 GLIMPSES OF WEST AFItlCA.

weoks from the fever, brought on by exposure
and lack of coraforts. Several missionaries who
accompanied them also sleep their last sleep
near the white sand beach at Jenkins. Mourn-
ful thoughts filled my mind as wo were passing,
and I felt thankful to God that he had raised
up men who were willing to toil, suffer, and die
as pioneers in the great work of missions on
this deadly coast.

Soon after passing Jenkins a strong head
wind set in, and as the tide was against us we
were obliged to anchor. The rain fell in tor-
rents, and the boat rocked so much that we all
became sea-sick. As darkness shut down, the
prospect seemed discouraging, for, though at
this season we always look for southerly winds,
tiie breeze continued t(5' blow strongly from the
north. The rain found its Avay through the
awning, and pattered down upon our blankets
and mattresses. At ten in the night, when the
tide turned, I roused the men, who were sleep-
ing around a fire in the bow of the boat with a
sail spread over them, and directed them to
take the oars. They were reluctant to leave

SIEP.nA LEONE.

191

their snuggery, but by moans of persuasion and
coniniand 1 managed to get ten oars at work.
If I chanced to sleep for an hour, the men were
almost sure to stop pulling ; but by frequent
shouts and persuasions we were able to get for-
ward at tolerable speed. Morning found us in
sight of Shingy, with no wind and a contrary
tide. About ten we landed at the wharf. The
water was quite rough, and as the men took us
in their arms to carry us ashore they were
obliged to run vip the beach to prevent our be-
ing drenched by the next wave. We walked to
the m.ission-house, now empty, and rested in
the cool, airy sitting-room. Shingy is beaiiti-
fuUy situated on a high point, and enjoys a fine
sea breeze. The native town is some di.stance
oiT, but quite large. In front you gaze over the
boundless ocean, and in a clear day can see the
Banana Islands and the mountains of Sierra
Leone.

About noon we started across Yawry Bay
with a splendid breeze from tlie north-west.
We found the water quite rough, but the
" Olive Branch " bounded from wave to wave,

192 GLIiirSES OF WEST AFIilCA.

flinging the spray from her bow, and in threo
hours we were at Kent. The view in crossing
the bay was delightful. The sun shone brightly
on the heaving waters ; the low, level coast
back of the bay was visible now and then ; the
lofty mountains of Sierra Leone rose grandly
in front ; and the Banana Islands lay lilce green
gems in the shining sea. As we glided swiftly
along under full sail, we had a fine view of
Kent, lying in quiet beauty on the hill-side. In
passing the reef we came near going ashore
through the carelessness of owv captain. The
huge breakers tossed our boat like a dry leaf,
but soon we rounded the point, and glided up
to the beach between two rocky ledges.

Next morning we continued our voyage.
With a light breeze we crept along the coast,
passing one after another the green mountains
and peaceful villages. York is the largest town
in the vicinity, and lies on the side of a high
hill, presenting a beautiful appearance as the
traveler passes in a boat. Tlie summits of
some of the mountains were vailed in clouds,
and occasionally a light shower passed along

SIERRA LEONE.

193

their sides. The wind at length veered to the
north, and our progress was slow. Just before
dark wc passed False Cape. The tide was low,
and the heavy ocean swells dashed in foaming
fury against the huge black rocks that line the
cape. As we were passing, the setting sun
came out in glory, tinging the water and dis-
tant hills with beauty. The night-shadows soon
gathered around, and we rapidly neared Cape
Sierra Leone. The light from the great lan-
tern in tlie tower shone far out at sea, and faint
glimmerings on the hills told us where the vil-
lages were situated. About ten o'clock we
landed at Eang Jimmy's wharf in Freetown,
and passing up a flight of stone steps, we found
ourselves in the midst of more civilization than
we had seen for many long months.

September 2. — Last Sunday morning dawned
wet and rainy, but as the hour for service ap-
proached, the sun came out, and made walking
more tolerable. I fulfilled a preaching engage-
ment at a Wesleyan church in Rawdon Street.
Tlie chapel has a very humble exterior ; low,
stone walls, and a roof of bamboo thatch.
13

194

CLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

Within, it is plain, but spacious and comfort-
able. We found only a small audience assem-
bled, but others came in during prayers. The
congregation were very attentive. One old
woman I particularly noticed ; she sat in a cor-
ner, the tears rolling down her checks, while
now and then a smothered sob escaped her.
Others seemed much affected, and I trust the
Holy Spirit was present. I was deeply inter-
ested with my morning experience in that
humble thatched chapel.

In the eve I spoke again in the Lady Hunt-
ingdon Chapel. The rain was falling, but a
goodly number gathered. This chapel is much
more imposing in appearance than the Wcsley-
an. Galleries extend across three sides, and
the body of the church is somewhat ornamented.
It was brilliantly lighted, and the music was
both instrumental and vocal.

On Saturday I enjoyed a pleasant walk to
Fourah Bay, where a college for the education
of native youths has been established by the
English Church Missionary Society. I was cor-
dially received by the President, and conducted

sirnr.A leose.

195

over the building. Tlie piazzas and balls are
large and airy ; the library cozy and American-
like ; and the students' rooms reminded me of
my own early school-days. The gromids arc
pleasantly laid out, and a fine sea bi-eeze comes
from the water. In the distance rise lofty moun-
tains, dotted here and there with cvdtivated farms
and villages : the beautiful city of Freetown is
iu full view, while far away stretches the bound-
less ocean ; and on the opposite side of the river
lies the long, low BuUom shore. The road from
Freetown to Fourah Bay is delightful. Fii-?t
we pass down Kissy Road, the Broadway of the
place, which is lined with shops full of gay-col-
ored goods, cloths, beads, earthen ware, and
an endless vai'iety of articles. Pedestrians, in
every variety of dress that mauy-costumed
Afi-ica can show, throng the street, or stand at
the sho|>-doors, di-iving bargains with the sales-
men. It is a strange, curious sight for foreign
eyes to gaze upon. Leaving Kissy Road, we
pass over a stone bridge, under which dashes a
moimtain torrent, and then wind along a broad,
smootli path, bordered with humble cottages.

19G GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA

Occasionally we catch a glimpse of the sea
through the tree-branches, or of the farms on
the hill-side. Much of the path is shaded by
branching trees, which afford a cooling shade
to the tired traveler.

Even barbarous Africa is not destitute of ele-
gant residences, as a day at the country-house
of one of the native merchants has abundantly
convinced me. It is beautifully located on the
sea-shore. On one side rise the mountains of
the interior, and on the other you have a view
of the opposite shore and far-stretching ocean.
Freetown and the shipping in the harbor are
partly seen through the wealth of tropical foli-
age. The house is commodious, and luxuriant-
ly furnished. It stands on a bluff many feet
above the river. Immense perpendicular walls
of solid stone have been built to prevent the sea
from encroaching upon the grounds, and a
flight of eighty-one steps leads down to the wa-
ter's side. As I wandered through the spacious
saloons and elegant drawing-room, I could
scarcely realize that I was in Africa. "We spent

STEUHA LEOXE.

197

a pleasant clay, and in the evening attended a
prayer-meeting.

Last eve, towards sunset, I took a little walk
among the hills. Passing along Rawdon Street,
I found myself in a part of the t jwu that I had
not before visited, and yet a most pleasant
2)Iace. There was an abundance of shrubbery,
and now and then a little rivulet dashing along
over its stony bed. Narrow, shady lanes, Ihicd
with bamboo cottages, branched out in every
direction. Soon I i-eached the foot of the moun-
tains, and the path grew very steep. It was
warm, toilsome work to ascend, but occasionally
I paused to catch a breath of cooling air, and
enjoy a glimpse of the scenery below, which
every moment grow more surpassingly lovely.
The path became steeper and steeper, but the
cool mountain air was invigorating. At length
I left the Regent road, and turned up a narrow
patli through a dense forest. The trees formed
a green arch above, and the bed of the road was
one mass of rock and loose stone. Sometimes
the ascent was nearly perpendicular, and next
I wound along the edge of a precipice. A half

198

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFniCA.

hour of vigorous "walking and scrambling
brought me to the top of one of the lower
mountains, on which stands tlie country-liouse
of a native mercliant. The view from the sum-
mit was grand and beautiful, — such as no pen
can ever describe. Far, far below at my feet
lay the city and harbor, forming a picture of
strange loveliness. The houses seemed in min-
iature, and as the eye wandered over them it
could trace out the different streets and more
prominent buildings. The pedestrians below
looked like moving dolls. Far to the vfcstward
lay tlie blue Atlantic, dotted here and there
witli a snowy sail ; and to the right, like a sea
of green, stretched the Bullom shore, vailed
with a soft haze. The tall palms at the cape
were plainly seen, and in the back-ground, one
above another, rose the forest-clad mountains,
till the eye rested on the vailed peak of " Sugar-
loaf." I stood entranced by the sight, as the
setting sun flooded the whole with a soft, rich
light ; and then, gathering a handful of flowers,
I prepared to descend. This was soon accom-
plished, and as the evening shadows fell I

SlEnUA LEONE.

199

threaded the quiet streets homeward, not only
refreshed by the ramble, but with my spirit
inwardly rejoicing over a new leaf in the won-
drous book of nature that had just been spread
before me.

Saturday. — I enjoy very much the pleasant
walks through the city and its suburbs. In
Sherbro we have no i-oads, and the fine, smooth
paths of Sierra Leone, though they would not
be dignified by the name of roads in America,
seem much like civilization. Yesterday after-
noon I visited the cemetery back of Tower Hill,
and spent an hour or two in rambling among
the tombs. The sun was hot, but an umbrella
tempered its rays, and an occasional rest under
some tree vras grateful. A few convicts from
the chain-gang were clearing the paths, but
most of the enclosure was overgrown with rank
grass and bushes, — indeed, in the rains it is
almost impossible to keep the grounds in toler-
able order. There are many monuments scat-
tered about, often with no inscription. The
chief features of interest to me, however, were
the graves of missionaries, who are buried bore

200 GLIMPSES OF WIST AFRICA.

in large numbers. Some of the graves are un-
marked, but the sleeping dust beneath is watched
over by God, and at the resurrection of the
just it shall arise clothed in immortality. Two
members of our mission — the pioneer Ray-
mond and Mr. Mair — rest there ; but no mon-
ument marks the spot, and I was unable to
find it. Tlieir record is in heaven. I noticed
the graves of two English bishops, and of many
Church, Wesleyan, and United Methodist mis-
sionaries. Two large white marble slabs mark
the resting-place of two young Americans, —
one from Boston and one from New York. In
one part of tlie ground, under a large tree, ai'e
five monuments, side by side, wlicrc lie the
bodies of five Roman Catholic missionaries, who
came to the colony some years ago to establish
their religion. They all fell victims to the cli-
mate a few weeks after landing. Many regarded
their sudden removal as a special providence to
prevent the establishment of a false religion.

Sept. 6. — As I was returning, the other day,
from a visit at the Wesleyan mission-house, I
paused for a few moments on a largo stone

SlEltltA LEOKE.

201

bridge, and gazed up the narrow gorge towards
the mountains. Far below dashed a pretty lit-
tle stream, which is sometimes swollen to a
mountain torrent. Some women and children
"were standing among the rocks, washing clothes.
Along the path on Avhich I stood was a constant
procession of people, — many of them were re-
turning to their homes in the villages from the
mai^kct, and nearly all carried large blies on
their heads. A portion of the town was in
sight, and in the distance rose the mountains,
their sides dotted with farms, presenting a most
pleasing landscape.

I walked slowly homeward, passing iip Kroo-
town Road, which, like Kissy, is lined with
shops full of gay cloths, trinkets, knives, scis-
sors, and almost everything imaginable. The
sun shone brightly, and all the streets were
thronged with pedestrians, presenting a biisy
scone. Many of the women wore flowing di'esses
of bright calico of different colors, and gay tur-
bans on their heads ; so that as you gazed down
a long street the view was really brilliant. The
passengers wore laughing and chattuig with

202

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

each other, or driving bargains with the shop-
keepers.

Walking along the streets, I turned my steps
toward the market. It was Saturday, the great
market-day of the week, and the roar of voices
as I approached was almost deafening. Out-
side the walls was spread a great variety of veg-
etables and fruits, which the owners were using
every effort to dispose of. Passing up to the
entrance, a most interesting sight met my eyes.
The long building was crowded with people,
and every stand seemed groaning beneath its
load. Tlicre were heaps of fragrant oranges,
and limes, and pine-apples ; bunches of golden
bananas, and long green plantains ; cocoa-nuts,
African pears, sour and sweet sop, sweet pota-
toes, cucumbers, yams, cocoa, eggs, green corn,
water-cresses, string-beans, caljbages, turnips,
greens, tomatoes, etc. Some tables were filled
with beads of brilliant colors, knives, and vari-
ous knick-knacks; some with small loaves of
bread. At one end of the market lay heaps of
" foofoo," which is made of beaten cassada,
rolled in balls. This is considered a groat del-

SIERRA LEONE.

203

icacy by tlio natives, but would hardly tompt
the appetite of a foreigner. But I was not per-
mitted to make my survey in quiet. The a[)-
pcarancc of a white face is always the signal for
redoubled efforts on the part of the market-
women to dispose of their articles. " Master!"
" Master ! " " Master ! " came from every side,
and samples of fruit and vegetables were thrust
before mo. If I had been a stranger I might
have lost my self-possession amid the confusion,
but I had so often been in the same position,
that I merely shook my head or uttered a quiet
" No " to their importunities, and examined
the tables at my leisure.

Freetown, Sept. 15. — Last week "Wednesday
morning we left on our intended trip to the
mountains. At dawn it was quite rainy, but
the blue sky soon appeared, and gave token of
a favorable day. Our procession, as it left the
yard and wound mountain-ward, was thus : first,
Mrs. W. in a palanquin, with two faithful car-
riers ; next myself, followed by our man John,
balancing a tin trunk on his head ; and finally
Ellen, one of the mission-girls. Soon we left

204

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

tliG noisy streets and shady lanes of Freetown,
and began to climb the steep mountain-paths.
The scenery was very beautiful. One moment
the eye rested on cloud-capped peaks, rocky
gorges, roaring torrents, and steep precipices ;
and the next on gently-sloping hill-sides and
lovely sun-lit valleys.

But it was not all romance, for climbing pre-
cipitous mountain-paths under a torrid s;in is
by no means play. Behold me, toiling up the
rocks, an umbrella in one hand, and my hat,
which I use as a fan, in the other, exclaiming
one moment, "How beautiful!" and the next,
" Oh how hot ! " As we ascended, the air grew
purer and cooler, and the sun was obscured by
clouds. Occasionally we sat down on some
rock to rest, and let imagination have full play
as we drank in the beauties of the scene.

By and by we descended to the romantic lit-
tle village of Gloucester. Its thatched houses
arc perched on steep hill-sides and in narrow
gorges, surrounded by cultivated patches. A
pretty stream goes dashing over the rocks. As
we crossed the stone bridge and wound up a

SIERRA LEONE.

205

sliady path, I might almost have imagined my-
self ill a New England forest road, had it not
been for the broad leaves of the banana and
plantain, and the groves of palm and cocoa
that everywhere met the eye.

Passing over another mountain, we came to
Regent, a village containing some fifteen hun-
dred inhabitants. It is built on both sides of
a beautiful stream, and surrounded on every
side by lofty mountains. The highest peak is
Sugar-loaf, which is much of the time vailed
in clouds. We were most cordially received by
the native pastor, Rev. George Nicol, whose
wife is a daughter of the celebrated Bishop
Crowther, and a day in that romantic and beau-
tiful village was full of interest.

On Thursday we visited Charlotte, four miles
further. The scenery, if possible, was still
grander than that of the previous day. The
paths were quite slippery from recent rains, and
it required considerable exertion to maintain
one's footing. "We passed the pretty village of
Bathurst, following the course of a mountain
stream, bordered with tropical foliage and gor-

20G

GLIMPSES OF WEST AFRICA.

goous flowers. Two or three waterfalls were
in sight among the hills. At Cliarlotte we
found a large girls' school for liberated Afri-
cans. The pujjils numbered upwards of a hun-
dred, and are not only taught the common Eng-
lish branches, but arc particularly instructed in
industrial pursuits. Such a work requires much
patience on the part of missionaries, but it is a
blessed cause.

We left Charlotte Friday noon on our return
to town by way of Wilberforce. It was a briglit
day, and most of the mountain-peaks were un-
vailed. The path lay over high table-lands,
and the vievys of land and sea were enchanting.
Yf 0 rested at Wilberforce till nearly sundown.
It is a pretty village on a mountain, in full view
of Freetown and the harbor. Both the English
Church and Wesleyans have mission stations
here. We joined our good friend. Rev. Mr.
Oaiger, in a pic-nic dinner and pleasant ramble
over the town. In the cool of the evening the
palanquin-carriers trotted swiftly homeward.
As we left the quiet outskirts of the city and
entered Krootown Road, the noise seemed deaf-

SIEItRA LEONE.

207

eniiig. The street was thronged with pedestri-
ans, talking, screaming, and laughing, and the
carriers at almost every step were compelled to
shout to them to clear the way. It was quite
dark when we arrived, much pleased with our
trip among the mountains.

Sierra Leone is certainly a wonderful exam-
ple of what can be accomplished through God's
blessing on missionary labor. There arc nearly
a hundred churches, and more than twenty
thousand church-members, in the colony. Sab-
bath and day schools are everywhere established ;
also academies, female seminaries, and one coL
lege. Colored policemen patrol the streets ;
colored lawyers plead at the bar ; colored pas-
tors preach to colored audiences ; and colored
editors write for colored readers.

The Sabbath is better observed in Sierra Le-
one than in many American cities. The peo-
ple are regular in their attendance at the house
of God, and reverential in their deportment.
Of course there is much wickedness, but still
the changes there have been wonderful. Where
once tlie cloud of heathenism brooded so lieav-

208

CLlMrSES OF WEST AFRICA.

ily, tho Sabbath bell now sends forth its glad
sound. Where the human victim lay bleeding
on the altar, now ascends tho daily sacrifice of
prayer and praise. And year by year this bles-
sed light is spreading towards the tribes yet
farther inland.

THE END.

I