Full text of "Greenhouse management for amateurs"

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UNIVERSITY OF MASSACH
LIBEARY

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Class

Greenhouse Management
for amateurs:

DESCEIPTIONS OF THE BEST GEEENHOUSES AND FEAMES,

WITH INSTEUCTIONS FOE BUILDING THEM;

PAETICULAES OF THE VAEIOIJS METHODS OF HEATING;

ILLUSTEATED DESCEIPTIONS OF THE MOST SUITABLE PLANTS,

WITH GENEEAL AND SPECIAL CULTUEAL DIEECTIONS;

AND ALL NECESSAEY INFOEMATION FOE THE

GUIDANCE OF THE AMATEUE.

SECOND EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED,
And Illustrated throughout.

By W. J. MAY,

Author 0/ " Vine Culture Jor Amateurs," " Vegetable Culture for Amateurs," ^-c.

London :
L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STEAND, W.C.

6ZZ

LOiSl)ON ;

A BRADLEY, LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS.
DRURY LANE, W.C.

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.

The success wliiclD. attended the first issue of tliis work has
induced us to publish another edition. This volume has been
arranged on a basis which will prove of great value to amateurs,
for whose benefit it was specially prepared. Indeed, it has been
entirely recast and remodelled, and a careful revision has taken
place in matter and style. The principal feature of the work
is the addition of illustrations, which, to amateurs, are of much
practical value, as they convey at a glance the form and charac-
ter of the plants which are under notice. We do not profess to
lead our readers by any new or easy way to the art of green-
house management ; but we have set down in plain language the
method to be followed by the amateur, and ^Dlaced before him
simple instructions which should be carefully observed. It is
practice alone which leads to perfection ; and that can only be
attained by patience and experience, in combination with obser-
vation and common sense.

A book may do much by shortening the experimental stage,
by giving the result of the ofttimes dearly-bought experience of
others, and that is all that we claim for " Greenhouse Manage-
ment for Amateurs."

The plants which we recommend for cultivation are those
which we know by practical experience an amateur is able to
grow successfully if our directions are followed.

For the convenience of those of our readers who wish to keep
their greenhouses or conservatories furnished with flowers the
year through, we have appended tables showing at a glance all
the plants mentioned in this book which bloom in each month.

"We have only to add, that we shall be pleased at all times to
give any further information, or to answer questions on gar-
dening subjects, through the columns of The Bazaar, which is
published at 170, Strand, London, W.C.

W. J. M.

COI^TENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGB

Introduction and General Eemarks ». 1

CHAPTER II.
Greenhouses and Frames 6

CHAPTER III.
Heating 18

CHAPTER IV.
Insects 37

CHAPTER V.
Cultural Directions 50

CHAPTER VI.
Dictionary of Plants C2

CHAPTER VII.
Monthly Calendar 348

CHAPTER VIII.
Monthly List of Plants in Bloom in the Greenhouse ... 370

(|rppn|Qu^p InQBnegpmpnf for

i.~Introduction and General Remarks.

HE Greenhouse is a structure that is perhaps
the most varied in shape, size, style, and
appearance, of any that are used
for horticultural purposes, and the
contents are as a rule of the most
heterogeneous character. Apart from
the house or plants, the heating
arrangements are generally far from
useful, and on this alone much of
course depends. As it is our wish
to give only useful information com-
bined with practicability, we shall treat
the subject from the beginning, describing
the way to stock various structures for
the use of amateui-s. As all our readers
probably know, a gi-eenhouse is a rather
costly building when puu up by a builder,
as generally a lot of superfluous ornamentation is added to the
erection, which, while giving a rather showy appearance to the

2 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

house, tends to obstruct the light, and so reduce the value of the
house for horticultural purposes. Yentilation is a subject of
paramount importance, as on the method of obtaining this a
very great deal depends ; in fact, we may say that more plants are
injured from bad ventilation than from any other cause. Ill-
placed ventilators, and inaccessible swing sashes, are often 30ui*ces
of continued annoyance and loss, and in a well-found house or
conservatory should not exist, but still it often happens that for
some caprice of the builder the ventilation is "badly arranged";
and as a certain consequence the plants suffer. The heating
arrangements are the most troublesome of any, as in hundreds
of cases some loudly praised affair which is well recommended by
the vendor is purchased by the amateur, and before the season is
out breaks down, and consequently entails the whole or partial
loss of the stock of plants that has cost so much labour to get
together. It is therefore the best plan to have a well-con-
structed affair at first, the cost of which in most cases not being
much more than the cheap (?) apparatus.

Stock. — The stock of plants should not be too great at first,
as there are always plenty of opportunities to add to it. Indeed,
if the house is only about 12ft. square, two or three dozen per-
manent plants will be ample, as there are plenty of season
plants to keep the house gay at all times. A few pots of
crocuses, musk, scarlet pelargoniums, &c., serve to give a very
bright appearance to what would otherwise be a dull unin-
teresting mass of green, and if the amateur has a taste for
tricolor and bronze pelargoniums, then at no season of the
year will the house be devoid of interest. Camellias, azaleas,
epacris, chorizemas, solanums. Cape pelargoniums, and genistas,
are a host in themselves, while of roses it may truly be said that
they are of inestimable value. We would advise our readers to
have only a few plants, and do them all well, rather than have a
large collection and do none of them well. There are many
ways of making a house look gay at a far less expense than
is generally allowed, thus making a greater pleasm'e in the
place than there otherwise would be.

Fots and Sand. — Pots and sand should be selected with

Introduction and General Remarks. 3

care, as they are of some importance in horticultural work.
Pots should be of a porous and hard natui-e, and when suspended
and hit with the knuckles should give off a sharp resonant
sound. Close smooth-grained pots should be avoided, espe-
cially if made of the London clay, as they soon go rotten and
cinimble away. Coarse sand should be used for all purposes,
as it gives far better results than the fine, and has not that
tendency to become covered with a green slimy coating that
very frequently shows up on dirty and fine soft sands.

Soils. — Soils and manures should be of the best quality and
suited to the work for which they are required, and cheapness
should not be a consideration in . laying in a stock of these
necessary adjuncts to the greenhouse.

The necessary soils for general use are maiden loam, yellow
loam, peat, leaf mould, and sand, and these we will describe in
tui'n. Loams should be laid up for at least six months to become
quite rotten and mellow, and to attain that state so necessary to
the well-being of the plants.

Maiden loam is the top spit of a pastui*e, and should be
free from clay and, if possible, wireworm. It should also be
free from red, rusty looking streaks, as such loams are, as
a rule, taken from water-logged pastures, and are generally
sour and bad. If the common hard-rush is found in the
herbage, it is also a sign that the soil is poor, and, therefore,
of course, should be avoided. Our plan is to use turf cut oif as
for making lawns, and laid up for a year, as it is much richer in
fibre, and plants of all kinds do better in it. The price of
ordinary loam in London is about 6s. per cubic yard, and the
turf about 9s. per 100, and it will be found that the latter is
the cheaper in the end.

Yellow loam is, as its name implies, yellow in colour, and is
the top Gin. from a common. Wimbledon and Epping loam
used to be considered the best near London, but since this has
become unobtainable we believe the article is obtained much
farther off. The best is full of fibre and bracken roots,
•and is quite mellow. It also contains a certain, or rather
uncertain, quantity of sand, and no clay. "VYe have found the

4 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

loam, peat, and sand, supplied by Mr. Kennard, of Old Swan-
place, Old Kent-road, to be the best to be obtained in or near
London, as Mr. Kennard makes a speciality of sncb tbings.

Teat is the top spit of a " dry " bog, and is quite distinct
from the peat that is used for fuel, which latter is useless for
plant food. Fibrous sandy peat is the best, and can be obtained
of Mr. Kennard, as above.'

iea/ mould is simply thoroughly rotted hard-wood leaves,
and the soil is thus full of humus, a very necessary condition
for primula and similar plants.

Silver sand is a white sand formed principally of pure silica,
and free from lime. It should be very coarse and sharp, and
also very clean, or it soon becomes covered with a green slimy
film, which, although very beautiful under the microscope, is
almost certain death to cuttings or seedlings that may be
surrounded by it. Reigate sand is generally esteemed the best .
The line white scouring sand sold at the oilshops is of very
little use for plants.

Manures. — Manures are a matter of importance, and are
generally the least thought of. With the majority of green-
house plants a steady lasting e:ffiect is desired, and not a sudden
spurt, and then a complete standstill, and to obtain the best
effects thoroughly rotten good manure must be used. Horse
and cow manures are the best, either mixed or separate as
occasion may require, and they should be used for all purposes.
Guano is a substance that has a great effect in driving the
plants up, but they are useless for any purpose afterwards.
For quick- acting liquid manui*e we prefer sulphate of ammonia,
but for all hard-wooded plants, the best liquid manure is made
by soaking a quantity of rotten horse manure in water, and
using the clear liquid after the solid portions have settled.

With, all soils and manures it is the better plan to have a
shed, with compartments in which the soils can be placed and
kept free from superfluous moisture.

Sundries. — A good supply of crocks for drainage should'
also be provided, or the plants will probably suffer for want

Introduction and General Remands.

of the proper means for the exit of superfluous water. A
hammer, trowel, water cans, both of the ordinary shape and
what is known as a strawberry pot, and a few other tools will
be required, but of these we will speak in the future. Amongst
the sundry requisites of a greenhouse are a good syringe — one
of Read's loin., with three roses, is as good as can be bought
— labels, flower pots of various sizes, square propagating pans,
some squares of glass, one of Brown's or Dreschler's Patent
Fumigators, some insecticides, flowers of sulphur, and a few
camel-hair pencils, besides a few other articles that are more
for show than use. Of course, a strong potting board, a pail,
step ladder, and two or three brushes and brooms, and the
necessary tools for the stokehole, are absolutely necessary. We
may as well mention here that plain, serviceable and strong
tools and utensils are far better than showily got up goods,
although the former may cost a lot of money if judged by
appearance only ; in all cases it is far better to have good
tools (although they are expensive) than cheap ones that will do
no service, as it is certain that cheap tools are dearer in the
end. Another thing to be borne in mind is, never to buy a
lot of useless articles, however much they may be puffed up,
as success does nob lay in the tools, but in the cultural skill
displayed.

We consider frames to be a necessary adjunct to an amateur's
house, and therefore two or three two-light boxes should be at
hand for use. The form of house is not of much consequence,
80 lonjr as it is well built and ventilated.

II.— Greenhouses and
Frames.

ANY and various are the houses or
glass structures that are made ex-
pressly for amateur gardeners, and,
as they range in price from £5 to
£50, it is as well to point out the
best forms of house, bearing in mind
cost and general suitability to the
purpose in hand. Of course, with
existing structures, very little can be
done, as it is, as a mle, expensive to
meddle with old buildings, the wood
very often being half decayed, and
the nails rusted in ; consequently, in separating or remo\'ing
portions of woodwork, they are very much damaged, and, in
many cases, are rendered quite useless. It also frequently
happens that another obstacle presents itself, viz., the house will
not fit another place, and we know, from sad experience, that
it costs as much to alter such a house as to build a new one.
We may as well mention here that we always deal with Messrs.
Lascelles & Co., Bunhill-row, London, and find their prices
moderate, and the articles they supply are, as a rule, first-class.
Wood, workmanship, and shape are as near as can be, perfect,
and, considering the price the articles are made at, it is indeed
a remarkable fact that so few persons possess really serviceable
glass houses.

Greenhouses and Frames.

Lean-to House. — The most general form of house is the
lean-to, shown at Fig. 1. The cost of erecting one of these

Fig. 1.— Lkan-to House.

varies according to the manner in which it is built, as some
persons have heavy sashes and timber, and, in some cases.

Fig. 2.— Lean-to House.

ornamental guttering, fancy designs in painting, &c., all of
which cost money, and have the disadvantage of making the

Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

house considerably darker, wliich causes the plants " to draw "
and makes it more difficult to keep them in good order than
it would he in a light place devoid of superfluous woodwork.
A house, 12£t. square, built in this style, would cost at least
£50, and in some cases it will be found that £75 will not cover
all expenses. If, however, it is desirable to study economy, a
house of the same size as that mentioned can be put up for
about £35 in the style of Fig. 2. As will be seen in the figure,
no top sashes are used, but simply ventilators, which answer

'^-"'^

i ' 1

f '"■ •' ""\

Fig. 3. — Sectional View of Lean-to.

quite as well; front sashes are, of course, necessary, but
need not be so heavy as those generally used. In the
example before us there are three front sashes, and five glazed
ventilators at the top, and a door at one end. The cost of
erecting the house a few years ago was £28 17s. 6d., without
heating apparatus, which subsequently cost £12 10s., thus
making a total of £-41 7s. 6d. for a good house 12ft. by 8ft.,
staging, heating, building, and all complete. Now, had heavy
eashcs and timber been used, about £20 more would have

Greenhouses and Frames.

been charged, and, besides the additional price, a great deal
less light would have been admitted. In this instance Sin.
timber was used, consequently great weight was avoided, the
staging was made to accommodate plants of a large size as
well as small pots, each shelf being a foot wide. The uprights
and stays were made of sound yellow deals, and the glass used
was 21oz. Belgian, which is, by the bye, a very useful and
serviceable article. Fig. 3 is a sectional view of the house.

^^^s§§s^^^^^^^s^^s^

Fig. 4. — Gkouni> Plan of Lean-to.

We will here give the plans for a lean-to greenhouse, as no
doubt some of our readers are amateur carpenters, and with
a little care such persons can be their own greenhouse builders.
We propose to take in hand a house 10ft. by 12ft., 5ft. 9in. high
in front, and 9ft. high at back, a very handy size for general
work. Indeed, we have seen very fine plants, and grapes
too, grown in such a house, and it was entirely built by the
gentleman himself. Fig. 4 is a ground plan of the house,
showing the walls, back stage (a), path (6), front stage (c).

10 Greenhouse Managejnent for Amateurs.

boiler and stokeliole (cZ), and stone door sill (e); the pipes
are shown by the dotted lines, a single flow to the corner (/),

Fig. 5. — Fkont Elevation of Lean-to.

and then a double flow along the front of the house, as shown,
with a single retui-n back to the boiler. All must be 4in.

Fig. 6.— Side Elevation of Lean-to.

pipes or sufScient heat will not be obtained. Fig. 5 is the
front elevation of the house. In the first place, there is a 3ft,

Greenhouses and Frames,

brick wa/11 around the liouse, and this must be of 9in. work if
carried up in mortar, or 4|in. if put up with Portland cement ;
but in any case, if the district surveyor sees the place, he will
insist on 9in. work. A two-course footing will be found
necessary for the security of the building. On the top of the
wall a 2in. wooden plate must be laid, and well bedded in either
moi-tar or cement, as the case may be. This plate should
overlap the wall on either side, and on the outside a gi-oove

Fig. 7.- Side Elevation of Lean-to.

should be cut out with the plough to allow the water to drip
off instead of running down the wall; this is very necessary,
or the wall soon becomes green and unsightly, besides causing
the plate to rot where it is laid on the wall. Upright quartering
Sin. by Sin. is used for the corners, and divisions between the
sashes, and along the top of these, a plate 4in. by Sin. is laid
to fonn the front of the roof. There are three fixed, and three
swing lights (a) which are sufficient for all practical purposes
Fig. 6 shows the end view where the door is, and Fig. 7 the

12 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

other end. It will be seen that the sash bars reach from top
to bottom of the house at the ends, and the glass is held in
its place by iron brads, besides the putty. By this plan there
is no fear of the glass falling out by the jar consequent
on the slamming of the doors, &c. The roof is shown in Fig. 8,
and it will be at once seen by wbat means tlie ventilation is
obtained. Four sashes 3ft. square, rising on hinges, occupy the

Fig. S.— Eoof to Lean-to.

Tipper portion of the roof, and the lower portion is formed of
sash bars, a plan that greatly increases the light admitted,
besides materially decreasing the cost of building; a Sin. by
4in. beam goes across the roof, where the top lights close down,
and one upright support takes its bearing in the centre of this
beam. It will be found quite an easy matter to build such a
house as we have described, as all the parts can be purchased
in a prepared state, and ready for use. A saving of at least

Greenhouses and Frames.

25 per cent, will also be effected by building bouses in this
manner, tberefore there is a double advantao^e in building your
own greenhouses. If the amateur desires to make every part
himself, he will find very minute directions in " Carpentry
and Joinery for Amateurs."'*

Fio. 9.— Curved Eoof House.

Curved Koof House. — Where the object is to obtain the
lightest house possible, the curvilinear form offers the best
design for the fulfilment of the object in view; but, at the
same time, the price is much more than a plain lean-to, or span,
as in many cases bent glass has to be used, and this is rather
expensive. It is not often that amateurs go in for this style of
house, but still, where it is desired to grow plants for exhibition,
it is sometimes of use to have such an one. Iron is the best
material to use for the sash bars, and in some places the whole
of the building may be of iron, doors and staging, of course,

* '* Carpentry and Joinery for Amateurs :" Containing full description-; of the variou-s tools
required in the above Arts, to^'ethor with practical instruct'ons tor their use. By the author
of " Turning lor Amateurs," '• Working in Sheet MctU," tS;c In cloth gilt, price -.is. Ca. ,
post free. London : L. Upcott Gill, 170, Strand, W.(J.

14 Greenhouse Manapement for Amateurs.

excepted. In Fig. 9 we give a sectional view of a liouse that was
built by a good firm, and whicb. looked very well. It was built
of wood and iron, and for stability it was unequalled. This
style of house is good for conservatories or greenhouses, as the
plants are not liable to " draw " so much as in ordinary lean-to
houses, and, as before mentioned, light is a great point in the
cultui'e of some plants.

Half-span House. — Houses with short back roofs, or, as
some persons call them, half -span roof (Fig. 10) are very useful,

Fig. 10.— Half-Span House.

and as they may occupy the same positions as the lean-to houses,
they afford greater facilities for the culture of plants in general.
They are easily built, and may be put up by anyone who has
any skill at carpentering, although span-roofed structures are
more troublesome to erect than lean-to's. The great advantage
in using them is that a portion of the back light is utilised,
especially where houses face north or north-west, the additional
light and heat gained being of great service. This style of

Greenhouses and Frames,

house is particularly useful against low walls and in similar
situations.

Span-roof House. — The span-roofed house is, however, the
best for plant culture, where it can be erected, and, unless vines
are grown, should take the place of all others. The cost is not
excessive, and although more trouble to put up than a lean-to,
anyone handy at carpentering could easily put one up. A
handy size is 12ft. wide, and, of course, as long as desirable.

Fig. 11.— Span-koof House.

Less width will generally be found to cramp the paths, &c.,
although 10ft. wide gives a very good centre path and side
stages ; but if a centre stage is required, then the house must
be of greater width. There are several styles of span-roofed
houses, but the two examples given will be found useful for all
general purposes. Fig. 11 shows a very cheap form of this style
of house, and, at the same time, one that is in much favour with
growers for the London markets, especially for soft-wooded
stuff. As will be seen from the cut, there are no side lights ;

G ree n h otise Ma n a gem ent for A in n te ii rs .

the ventilation is provided for by means of sliding sashes or
ventilators that open on hinges, as before described. As a rule,
a central path is made about 2ft. 9in. or 3ft. in width, and there
are two side stages, or rather benches, the farthest edge of
which is about 9in. from the glass. In the second example
(Fig. 12) there are side lights, and, of course, the place is much
higher and more expensive. This kind of house is useful for all

Fig. 12.— Span-eoop House.

the ordinary kinds of plants, both hard and soft wooded. It is
also one of the best forms of house for growing specimen plants.
"Where it is possible, the best plan is to have a centre stage and
side stages, with paths around; this allows of the proper
distribution of the plants, and more suitable positions to some
of them than can be obtained in a lean-to. > For this reason we
prefer a span-roofed house for all ordinary collections of plants.

Greenhouses and Frames. 17

Frames. — As these are necessary adjuncts to a greenhouse, a
word or two on them may not come amiss here. The uses to
which they may be put are so many and various that to
omit a notice of them would he to omit one of the most
important parts of our book. In the first place, there is
the common melon or cucumber frame, which answers all
ordinary purposes. It should be stood on a concrete bottom
with a channel in front to allow the water to run clear
away, or damp will do much damage. These common frames
answer all practical purposes, and on account of their
portability and the ease with which a hotbed can be made
Tinder them, they will be found the best for amateurs. The
best size is that technically termed " two-light frames," with
6ft. by 4ft. lights, as more lights cause a difficulty when making
up a hotbed. We do not give an illustration of these, as they
are so generally known. The only point is to have them made of
the best yellow deal, as free from knots and shakes as possible,
and painted three coats with the best lead paint.

It is not our intention to treat of conservatories and window
cases, as, although they are sometimes affected b^ wealthy
amateurs, yet in the majority of cases the greenhouses before
mentioned, or modifications of them, are the rule among persons
who make a hobby of gardening themselves, and do not employ
gardeners to do the work for them. Window cases or con-
servatories do not therefore come within the scope of the
present work.

iii.-Reating.

"^^^ EATING is rather a difficult matter
to treat, as the wants and require-
ments of sucli a large community
as amateur gardeners are so great
that one might write a volume
without exhausting the subject. In
the first place, the sort of green-
house to be treated is a gi*eat con-
sideration, for, as the term is now
generally applied, a glazed rabbit
hutch and a winter garden may
equally be termed greenhouses, pro-
vided there are a few plants in them.
"We have seen " greenhouses " about
4ft. by 6ft., and about 7ft. high, and
to these no apparatus could be affixed that would heat the
small space thoroughly, without using an extravagant amount
of fuel in proportion to the size of the place. Of course,
it is an easy matter to heat any place when expense is no
object, but with the majority of gardeners the cost is one
of the most prominent points of consideration. For many
small places the cost of the special fuel requii'ed by some of
the contrivances offered is a great drawback. Patent fuel
is often objectionable, as it cannot always be obtained in
country places. Another objection to many stoves is that the
fire does not last a sufficient time after being made up, and the

j:).

Heating. 19

consequence is that the frost gets in and destroys the whole
of the plants. In a garden where a large amount of glass
has to be kept at a nearly unifonn temperature, the gardeners
have to visit the fires during the night. But there are
few persons who would like to leave their beds on a cold,
and, probably, frosty night, for the sake of attending the
fire of a small house in which there is perhaps only a
pound's worth of plants ; and, therefore, the stove should be so
constinicted as to bum at least eight hours, if not longer.
In the case of simple stoves that give out heat only and do not
retain it like hot water, this slow combustion principle should
be very nearly perfect, or failure, will result. In hot water
apparatus, of course, it is an advantage to have the fire kept
in for as long a period as possible; but at the same time, if
there is a sufficiency of water, heat will be given out long after
the fire is out, and circulation has ceased.

Nothing less than 4in. pipes should be used in a house of any
size ; and if frost is not too severe, and the boiler and furnace
have been fixed in a proper manner, a good heat should be
given off for twelve houi's at least. In fact, we have had
boilers fixed under our own superintendence that would give a
good circulation of water (hot, not warm ) for fifteen hours right
off, without any attendance during the time, but as boilers are
very often set by country bricklayers, thi-ee or foui- hours' non-
attendance is sufficient to let the frost into the house. Heating
by means of flues is a very good plan where firing is no object,
but when coals are up to 25s. per ton, it will be found to be a
case of penny wise and pound foolish to have flues. The
lamps or stoves to burn mineral oils serve for small places
only, and gas is not always to be obtained.

Heating with Mineral Oils. — The stoves for this purpose
are of various constructions, and also degrees of utility, and
most of them are advertised to do more work than they are
really capable of doing in a regular way. It must be
borne in mind that a glass house is more exigent of
warmth than a room, and requires at least three times as
much heat to keep out the frost in proportion to the size

20 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

of the structure. What would keep a room 12ft. square
at a nice lieat would not keep tlie frost out of a greenhouse 6ft.
square, unless such house was very much sheltered. Now, for
all practical purposes, a sufficient heat must be ^iven to keep
out frost, and at the same time no great amount of smoke must
be engendered by the (imperfect) combustion of the oil. To
this end the wick after it is lighted must be turned down under
the dome, so that a sufficient amount of oxygen shall be con-
sumed to ensure
the perfect com-
bustion of the oil.
It should also be
remembered that
smoke is simply
unconsumed fuel,
and the more smoke
made the greater
the amount of fuel
that will be re-
quired. This should
be remembered by
all persons who
have the charge of
, any kind of heat-
% ing. A good stoker
is a truly valuable
person in either
a dwelling or an
engine house, and should be kept when obtained.

But to return to our oil stoves, anyone with care may use one
of Hinck's or Dietz's kerosine stoves in a house that has not
more than 500 cubic feet of interior capacity ; over that, large
sized stoves must be used, or more than one of the smaller size,,
but of this it is only possible to give a decisive opinion on a
personal inspection. We would have it understood that we
only advise the use of oil stoves for small places, as for
larger houses other plans are more effective, and not more-
expensive. In all plans of heating, of course price is a con-

Fig. 13.— Messes. Dietz and Co.'s Paeagon Boilee
FOE MiNEEAi. Oil.

Heating. 2\

sideration, and therefore we advise readers to use oil stoves for
small houses.

Botli the Albion Lamp Co. and Dietz and Co. (Fig. 13) make a
good form of stove for using mineral oils. They are somewhat
similar in construction to Wright's gas stove, and consist of a
boiler, mineral oil lamp, and three or more hot water pipes, and
they do their work well, and from the increased heating surface
obtained by using hot water, a greater heat is given oif than from
a lamp alone. We have seen both in operation, and think them
well worth the money charged, and all things considered, they
will be of far more use in small conservatories than any simple
lamp. A friend of ours who has one of each maker's apparatus
in use says there is no difference in the oil consumed, and the
heat given off is about the same, while compared with the
simple lamps, or stoves, as they are called, two of this new
apparatus give off as much heat as, or rather raise the tem-
perature in the small conservatory he has higher than will
three lamps which he has been using, thus showing a clear
saving of nearly a gallon of oil per week. Three lamps cost him
£4< 10s., and the two apparatus in question cost him altogether
about £6.

Both George's Calorigen and Ritchie's Lux Calor, described
further on, can be used with mineral oil lamps.

Heating with. Hot-air Stoves. — Under this we class all
the various stoves that are heated with coal, coke, or cinders,
and which give off dry heat. In the majority of cases these
are, for more than one reason, objectionable. In the first place,
they give off dry, overheated, and deleterious fumes, especially
if they are made of wrought iron, and, as a natui'al conse-
quence, the plants do not succeed well. In the next place, they
are generally dirty and untidy, and, lastly, their fires have a nasty
habit of going out when most wanted. The last objection is
the trouble of attendance, which, if not very great, is not a
cleanly job. Of course, very much of the pleasure of a green-
house depends on the nature of the work that has to be done
by the owner; for if there is much work of a dirty kind, the
place soon loses favour, and then comes discontent, and eventu-

22 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

ally failure. In choosing a stove, have one with a cast-iron
fire bucket, or one that is lined with fire bricks, by which means
direct heat is kept from the wrought iron, and the fumes given
off are reduced to a minimum, so increasing the probabilities
of growing plants successfully. In addition to this cast-iron
or brick fire-pail, it is also necessary to have some contrivance
to hold water to be evaporated, and so tend to regulate the
dryness caused by the stove. Of course, the amount of moisture
that is necessary will be regulated by the number of plants in
the house, and the quantity of water given.

Nearly all the stoves that have chimneys answer well, with
care in stoking and by using cinders and coke broken small
for fuel; they must be small, or they will cake together. We
can, however, only speak of Green's Patent Suspension Stoves
from experience, as we have generally had hot-water apparatus
under our charge. There are, however, many other stoves with
flues that answer well if they are constructed as described above.
It is all very well to purchase a stove without a flue for the
reason that there is no smoke, but though no visible smoke
exists, there are fumes of a most deadly nature both to
plant and animal life, which get dispersed over the house in
which the stove is inclosed, and eventually ruin and destroy
the whole of the jDlants. There is, indeeed, the one probability
that the glazing of the house is so bad that sufficient draughts
obtain admission to blow off the vapours that would otherwise
accumulate ; but in many cases the house is comparatively
aii'-tight, and so the plants die.

The size of the stove of course regulates the size of the
house it will heat, but one of Green's Suspension Stoves, that
burns about a bushel and a half of fuel daily, will heat
from oOOft, to 1500ft. of cubical capacity, according to the
situation and exposure of the house. To a certain extent the
space that can be heated by stoves is unlimited, but of course,
the larger the space to be heated the greater must be the heat
given off by the stove. A drier atmosphere will thus be ob-
tained, and the growth of the plants will be more or less seriously
affected. It also equally applies in heating schools, &c., with
stoves, that if there is not sufficient heating surface to give

Heating. 23

off enough heat without overheating the stoves, very undesir-
able results will follow : severe colds, itching of the eyes, and
sometimes sore throats, are caused by this means alone, all of
which, we venture to say, would never appear were the stoves
sufficiently powerful to heat the place while at a comparatively low
heat themselves. With plants the effect is very bad, and it is far
better to have two stoves at a moderate, than one at a fierce heat.

In fixing these stoves two things are requisite, a draught
sufficient to keep the fire alight fairly, and sufficient piping to
exhaust the whole of the heat before it reaches the chimney.

The first is easy to attain if the pipes can be led into a
chimney belonging to the dwelling house, but some difficulty
will often be found in obtaining sufficient length of pipe. We
have found it the best plan to take the pipe upright for three
or four feet, and then turn it off at right angles, and take
it across the house into the chimney; this, of course, allows
of the whole of the heat being utilised, that would otherwise be
blown out of the roof. The joints should be made good with
red lead and oil, so that no fumes escape, and the whole is
then complete — complete at least so far as the fixing goes;
but the more important item of stoking still remains. This
is a point that requires much attention, as on it the durability
of the fire depends. In the first place, light the fire with
shavings or paper and short pieces of wood ; when these are
well alight put in a little coke broken small, or perhaps a few
cinders, but no coal. If coal is used the greatest probability
will be that the fire will cake and go out, and consequently
the frost will get in and the plants will be lost. As soon as
the fuel first put on is well alight, fill up the stove with dry
fuel, and partially close the air inlet at the bottom. With a
little care the fire may be kept well alight from eight to twelve
hours, or as long as can reasonably be expected with the amount
of fuel consumed.

Heating with Gas. — This is one of the vexed questions of
the day, and will never be definitely settled until we can have
gas at a good pressure throughout the night, and at a moderate
price; and even then the risk attendant on this system of

24 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

heating will debar very many persons from using it. It must
in all cases be remembered that the low first cost of an
apparatus of any kind does not imply that it will be cheap
in the end; in fact, it is very often quite the reverse, as cheaply
made articles as a rule are not so well made as those for which
a fair price is charged. Joints and rivets are insufficiently
fastened, plates are cracked because the holes are not drilled
large enough, and, worse than all, the arrangements are such
that in the case of an apparatus that depends on hot water
for the heating medium, the water in many cases will
not circulate. "We have had a good experience of gas ap-
paratus, and in no case have we found that the work done,
in proportion to the cost, equals that done by good sound
fuel in a plain conical boiler. The plates used in the manu-
facture of gas apparatus are generally very thin, and the action
of the gas where it burns against them soon causes them to
break into holes, and so allow the fumes of the gas to escape,
to the great injury of both plant and animal life. Common
burners are also used in many of the contrivances, and the
result is that the gas is not thoroughly bm-nt, and there-
fore an exorbitant quantity of gas has to be used in pro-
portion to the heat obtained. A
good burner that allows the gas to
be well oxygenated makes very little
smoke, and consequently there is not
so great a waste of heat as where
large deposits of soot are fonned.
All parts of the apparatus that come
in contact with the flame should be
of copper, and where a boiler is used
it should be entirely of copper, so
that the greatest amount of dura-
FiG. 14.— Qeokge's Catoeiqen. bility shall be insured.
A, room ; B, exterior of building ; There are two plans of heating with

C, wall ; D,Calorigeu;E, cylinder; •,-, m- wiflinnf Vnf wnfpr Tn

P F, pipes communicating with 5^^' ^^^^ ^^ WltUOUt UOL water, in

stove and cylinder to supply air ^j.^ latter case, heating by means of

for combustion and to carry oil ' o ./

products of combustion; G, pipe the gas alone, George's Patent Gas

for supply of air to be warmed; ^ , . ._,. -,,'.• -, , ,-, i j.

H, outlet of warmed air. Calorigen (Fig. 14) is about the best

Heating.

apparatus there is, as by its use a current of fresh heated
air is supplied to the interior of the place to be heated, whilst
the products of combustion are carried out into the outer air,
thus obviating all inconvenience that generally arises from the
fumes of the gas. The whole apparatus is of neat appearance,
and is constructed to burn well, independently of draughts.

Next to the Calorigen, a plain conical tube, with straight
chimney, gives the best results, provided down draughts can be
guarded against. A plain ring of lights impinge on the sides
of the cone near the bottom, and of course heat it to the top.
No bottom is required to such an apparatus, but the joints
and seams must be perfectly sound and
tight, and to ensure this, all joints, &c.,
should be luted with red lead and oil,
which will make the 'whole tight. Open
gas fires should on no account be used,
as the fumes given off will destroy all
the plants.

The Lux Calor (Fig. 15) is also a very
good simple gas stove for small houses.

A is a door which opens on a Bunsen
atmospheric burner, and B B are tubes
in which the products of combustion
are condensed (with the exception of the
carbonic acid) into fluid form. These
tubes become hot, and the heat is then
radiated from them.

In the more important class of apparatus, i.e., that in which
water is used as a heating medium, there are various makes of
more or less excellence, but all of them require the services of
a gasfitter or hob-water engineer to fix them to the best ad-
vantage. In all hot- water arrangements it must be remembered
that hot water ascends, and the cold portion contained in the
pipes descends ; therefore it is of the greatest importance that
the point most distant from the boiler should be the highest,
and that this part should contain an air pipe to relieve the
pipes from any air or vapour which may from time to time
accumulate. It is almost useless to attempt to specify any

Fia. 15. — Eitchie's Lux
Calor.

26 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

particular one amongst the many kinds of apparatus that
are offered to the public; nor do we wish to imply that those
we mention are the only good ones ; on the contrary, we know
that there are many that are good if properly fitted up.

The gas boiler made by Wright and Co., of Birmingham,
of which an illustration is given (Fig. 16), is a good one, and
does its work economically and well. The Shrewsbury gas
boiler is also very good. Mr. Mussett, of Winstanley-road,

Fig, 16.— Messes. Wright and Co.'s Gas Boilee.

Clapham Junction, S.W., and Mr. W. G. Pendleton, of "Walton-
on-Thames, also make some very efficient apparatus at reason-
able prices ; and there are many other makers who supply good
articles at fair prices.

We would give a word or two of advice to all about to use
gas for heating conservatories. In the first place, employ none
but really competent workmen to fix the apparatus when
bought ; make all joints and crevices secure with red lead
putty, have hot water pipes fixed so that they rise to the point
farthest from the boiler, and, lastly, buy a good article. It is
a good plan to have a written warranty with each apparatus,
a waiTanty that specifies exactly what the boiler will do, and
that it is in a projDer order to do it. If this rule were always
observed fewer mishaps would happen.

Heating, 27

Heating by Hot Water. — This is comparatively a modern
invention, but it is about tbe cheapest and best method of
applying heat to liorticultural purposes. Who first made a
really practical use of hot water is rather a disputed point,
and may possibly never be satisfactorily determined, but for
our present purpose it is sufficient that it is about the only
really good method that is in practice. Of course, it is necessary
that a proper amount of care be paid to having a due proportion
of heating surface to the space to be warmed, and also that
the boiler be large enough to heat the length of pipe, but if
these points be conceded, no method at present in use will
give such uniform diffusion of heat as hot water will. Neither
will the amount of fuel burned be so small in proportion to the-
results attained. Hot water is also better for plant life, as it
does not produce that dryness of the atmosphere that is caused
by flues or other modes of applying heated air, and the hot
water pipes, extending the whole length of the house, cause the-
warmth to be equally distributed.

Sealed pipes we object to, but if these are left out, so long as
the return pipe, or any part of the return pipe, is not below the
bottom of the boiler, a circulation can be kept up. The cheapest
plan is to have both the flow and return pipe above the boiler,
but still, by the use of a syphon, as we shall presently describe^
this is not absolutely necessary.

The golden rule in hot water work is to have this fact
constantly in mind : hot water always ascends, while cold water
descends, and on this success depends. An egress for air must
be provided at the highest point of each system of pipes, and
wherever there is a dip under a doorway or other place, other-
wise a partial vacuum will be formed, and the circulation will
be seriously impeded, if not stopped. It must be remembered
that all water becomes foul while confined in the pipes, and foul
water generates gas, besides which, the fluctuation in the heat
of the water considerably assists to draw in air from outside ;
therefore, in all cases, air cocks or pipes should be provided
wherever necessary.

It is likewise very desirable that draw-off cocks should be
placed in the boiler, and also in some of the angles of the pipes.

28 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

as tlie accumulation of dirt and scale makes it necessary to
clean out the wlioie apparatus at times. Although no one
would be so foolish as to fill a boiler and hot water pipes with
dirty water, yet dirt will get in, and if not removed, causes a
choked state of some of the smaller pipes, and a poor and
sluggish circulation is the result.

The connection between the boiler and pipes should be of
l|in. or 2in. pipe, external, or IMn. gas barrel, as smaller pipes
soon get furred up. All connections between house and house,
or between coils, should be of 2in. cast pipe ; but between boiler
and coil it should be as we mentioned before. Too much small
pipe, or variation from large to small, chokes the circulation
somewhat, and renders the heating power of a given amount
of fuel much less. Besides, for many other reasons, avoid
small pipes, and notably because a small pipe chokes or furs
up sooner than larger ones, and sometimes where the matter is
not thoroughly understood, a blow-up is the result, especially
where water is much impregnated with lime or organic matter.
"We have ere now had hot-water apparatus taken to pieces, and
have found the lin. gas barrel so encrusted, or furred, that we
could scarcely pass an ordinary lead pencil through. Where
there is any danger of this incrustation taking place largely,
if the water is slightly acidulated with muriatic acid, say a half
pint of acid to 100 gallons of water, incrustation will be very
greatly reduced. More acid than in the proportion given must
not be employed. Salt water should not be used for any hot-
water apparatus, as the boiler and pipes soon get incrusted with
saline particles, and require burning or some other method of
cleaning to free them.

Where pipes have to be taken underground, they should be
carried through a brick or board trough, so constructed as to
be water-tight, as the earth absorbs an immense quantity of
heat. In fact, a 4in. pipe, 50ft. in length, would lose more heat
in the soil than would one of thrice the length in a trough that
was closed alike from air and moisture. For this reason it is a
matter of economy that all pipes used for bottom heat be in
a hollow chamber.

For many reasons, it is necessary to have valves, and the

Heating. 29

more simple these are the better it is for the person using
them. For all ordinary purposes we prefer the plain throttle
valves, but, where pressure has to be applied, there is a specially
strong valve for the purpose. Special valves are made for
special purposes, but these are not ordinarily requii-ed. It is>
a good plan to have a number of valves, although they are
rather expensive, but it is absolutely necessary to have them
where more than one house is heated from the same boiler. It
is also advantageous to have one or more valves to regulate the
top and bottom heat in the same house, but of this we will speak
hereafter.

The pipes may be packed with r-ed lead and oil putty well
mixed with yarn or tow ; with tarred yarn and Portland cement ;
or, with indiarubber rings and Portland cement, or, where the
pipes are on a firm base, with the rings alone, as in Fig, 17.
The socket and spigot ends of two pipes (A A) are shown
in situ, with the ring (B B) and Portland cement packing (0 C)^
If not packed with
cement, only the ring ^

(B B), will be in its cs
place, the cavity
shown filled with ce-
ment, being then left
open. "We do not

advise the use of iron

cement, as where it is ^'^' 17.-Joint in Hot-water Pipe.

employed there is -A- A, socket and spigot ends ; B B, indiarubber ring ^

, ,. 1 .,., „ ., C C, Portland cement packing,

great liability 01 the

sockets splitting from unequal expansion, and where this happens
a continual expense is incurred, for split pipes are unsafe under
pressure. And another thing militates against the use of iron
cement for joining pipes ; if from any cause the pipes have to-
be taken apart, they have to be cut at the back of the socket,
or, in fact, the socket has to be cut out, and a loose socket or
"thimble" substituted. Gas barrel pipes are, of course, con-
nected with union sockets.

Two 2in. pipes should be used for bottom heat, in preference
to one 4in. one, and in some cases Sin. pipes will be found better

30 Greenhouse Management for A7nateurs.

-than larger ones. One foot of 2in. pipe contains about 72 square
inches of heating surface ; 1ft. of Sin. pipe about lOSIn., and 1ft.
of 4in. pipe 14-iin. ; and 1ft. of the latter should heat about 90
■cubic feet of interior capacity in an ordinary greenhouse. For
other houses, however, more or less may be needed in proportion
to size, or the plants grown. The greater the superficial area of
the glass roof, combined with a comparatively small interior
.space, the more pipes are required to heat a given length.

Amongst the many inventions in pipes, we do not find any to
beat the old-fashioned plan, and therefore pass them over
without comment. Flange pipes, joined with bolts and nuts,
.are used sometimes, but they have no advantage over the
common foi*m of pipe.

The fuel used depends on the class of boiler employed, but
there is nothing to equal clean hard coke, broken to about the
size of hens' eggs, if the boiler is constructed so that the
•draught can be well regulated. Such boilers as the Independent
conical, plain conical, and others on the slow combustion
principle, are really the best for amateur use, and for these coke
is most suitable, but for saddle and some other boilers, if
properly set, coal, cinders, and refuse of almost any kind may be
used. It is, however, very doubtful whether there is much
saving effected or economy gained in heating a given space by
using rubbish as fuel, and particularly if the boiler is not
properly set or a good stoker is not at hand. There is consider-
able art in proper stoking, and the difference between good
and bad stoking is very great, so great, indeed, that a saving
of 25 per cent, in fuel may be effected by a really competent
man.

The choice of a boiler for amateur work is rather a difficult
matter, as, unlike a gardener, who 'must do certain work com-
pulsorily, the man who has money does not care too often to soil
his hands, and therefore the boiler, or form of boiler, which does
its work well and requires the least amount of attention is the
one most suitable. For this reason boilers which can be used on
the slow combustion principle are the best for amateur use and
for those who are liable to be called away at uncertain intei*vals.
Where, however, there is a staff of men kept and a large amount

Heating,

of glass to be lieated, it is necessary tliat a good boiler, or,
perhaps, two boilers, be used, as in using sucli, a great economy
is effected in the fuel and labour, and, besides, one fire is not so

Pig. 18.— Plain Conical Boilbr.

A A, Ijoiler; B B B B B B, flue, both spiral and top : C, damper ; D, fire lump ;
E, furnace; F, ash pit. The arrows show the direction of the draught.

liable to be forgotten as one in a dozen. Where labour is
plentiful and cheap it is of very little consequence whether a
saddle, conical, Cornish, or other boiler is used, but we prefer
the plain conical boiler, as it is easy to work, moderate in con-

^2 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

sumption of fuel, and, wliere properly fixed and attended,
certain in its action. Coke, broken to the size of eggs, is the
best fuel, and the harder the coke the better the fire. In Fig. 18

Fig. 19.— Ttjbulae CoiriCAi, Boilee,
A A, boiler ; B B B B, flues ; C, damper ; D, fire lump ; E, f amace ; F, ashpit.

we give a sectional view of a plain conical boiler, fixed in brick-
work, and where the buildings are permanent, this is as good a
form of boiler as can be used. Next in order of merit comes the

Heatino.

tubular conical boiler (Fig. 19), and bere certain drawbacks have
to be contended with in setting, for, if not closely watcbed,
many bricklayers will use tbeir own ideas about tbe matter.
The most common faults are either to brick close to the tubes,
and so make the fire bum inside where it should be dead, or
otherwise to leave too large a chimney, which causes the fire to
bum in one place only. Set as shown, the boiler will keep going
for twelve or fourteen hours, and heat the pipes in an efficient
manner. In both Fig. 18 and Fig. 19 the measurements are
marked in inches.

The saddle boiler, if well set and of sufficient size, will be
found as good as any in an
economical sense, and, indeed,
it possesses many advantages.
In the first place, cinders,
hard or soft coals, coke, slack
■coal and clay, culm and clay,
or even coal and wet ashes, will
burn and keep up the heat,
but the boiler must be long,
and not choked too much at the
back. A saddle boiler should
not be less than 3ft. long, and
where a great length of pipe
has to be heated, a 5ft. saddle
is not a bit too large. The L
ended saddle boiler is a great
improvement on the old one, to
which, from careful trial, we
prefer it. More surface is ex-
posed to the fire, and greater
heat is thus extracted from it.

The Independent saddle
boiler is very useful where

Fig.

20. — The Independent Conical

BOILEB.

A A, wrought iron boiler ; B, cast base ;
C, fire-bars ; D, flue ; E, dome top ; F,
feeding lid ; G, flow pipe; H, return pipe.

drainage is bad, and this and the next one (Fig. 20), the Inde-
pendent conical boiler, are perhaps the two best independent
boilers. They are, however, much more expensive than those
-which require fixing in brickwork, but as they are absolutely

34 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

owned by tlie tenant tkey are cheapest in tlie end, particularly
where the property is only held on a short lease.

There are dozens of forms of boiler for fixing in brickwork,
and, properly fixed, they are, no doubt, good, but the more
simple the boiler the better the results, as a rule, unless a brick-
layer used to firework has the setting of them. Coil boilers we
have but little faith in, if we except those made by Deards, and
these are best in the larger sizes.

As fuel has a great deal to do with the performance of
heating apparatus, we will say one or two words on the matter.
In the first place, such boilers as Figs. 18, 19, and 20 should be
fed with coke or anthracite coal only, but open boilers, like the
plain saddle, will bum almost anything. This much must, how-
ever, be said : fuel to be most effective should be broken up
small enough to pass through a l^in. or 2in. ring, according to
the size of the boiler, and should be free from dust. Slack coal
and other stuff burnt in the common saddle boiler should be on
io'p of the fire, and should be well wetted before use, so that it
shall cake. Coke should also be used wet, as it bums better and
throws off more heat. Where cinders are used it is always best
to sift them through not less than a half-inch meshed sieve,.
as a finer sieve would hold back too much dii*t, and ashes are
of no use to burn.

In the selection of a boiler, always have one too large for the
work required, i.e., if you have about 100ft. of 4in. pipe to heat,
choose a boiler that will heat nearly as much again, and then
you will be safe in the hardest weather, and not have to " drive "^
the boilpr. Always have a wi'ought iron boiler, as cast boilers
are liable to split, and, should a stoppage occur in any of the
pipes, will sometimes explode with some force, whereas a
wrought boiler is only likely to rip or tear, so doing less
damage. The best material for any kind of boiler is copper, but
the great cost — say, £60 to £70 per ton — is against it.

We do not give plans of heating, as there is scarcely a case
where two houses can be heated alike in all details.

In wet places, where several houses at different levels have to
be heated from one boiler, the following arrangement (Fig. 21)
can be used, provided the return pipe is not below the boiler. A

Heating.

siplion from 5ft. to 15ft. liigli rises above the boiler, and the
water descends through the whole of the pipes. A is top of
boiler, B B siphon, C air pipe. The
water rises in the direction of the arrows,
the top of the siphon being the highest
point in the whole system. In working
this plan very strong boilers are neces-
sary, and it is also desirable that the
strongest cast pipes be used for the
siphon. "We have shown flanged pipes,
but these are not absolutely necessary,
as the ordinary form of socket pipe will
answer all purposes. Good workman-
ship is absolutely necessary, or failure
is sure to result, the pressure in the
boiler and siphon being so much greater
than with the ordinary system of heat-
ing.

The points to be observed are : First,
a boiler large enough for the work, as it
is false economy to have a boiler too
small. Secondly, that the boiler shall
be properly fixed. Thirdly, that the
pipes are large enough and of a suffi-
cient length to heat the house properly ;
and, lastly, that an experienced hot-
water fitter be employed for the fixing, &c. If these points
are attended to, success will follow.

Pig. 21.— Siphon for Heat-
ing ON THE Descending
System.

A, top of boiler; B B, siphon
pipe; C, air pipe. The arrows
show direction of flow.

Heating with Flues. — This old-fashioned method is hardly
worth describing at the present time, as it is so little used,
but for the benefit of those who may like the plan, we give
a few hints. In the first place, a furnace is required, and this
must be constructed so that the flames and heat rise into the
flue. The construction is very simple, as it consists of a
long chamber, about a foot high, and a little wider, if con-
venient, with an ashpit under ; it is also desirable to provide it
with good fire bars, as the common ones soon burn through.

D 2

36 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Tlie flue should rise from tlie top of tlie furnace in a slanting
direction, and sliould have no dips or sudden falls in it, or in
many cases failure will result, as hot air, like hot water, always
rises. In building the flue it will be necessary to raise it the
thickness of a brick on edge above the floor of the house,
and this is done by placing the brick so that the edges of two
tiles (lOin. square) lie on each brick ; these must be well
bedded in mortar, and when the whole of this foundation is
laid, three bricks on edge should be built up on each side, on
the tiles, and this should be covered in with other tiles, well
mortared together, or the smoke will escape. The flue, when
finished, will have an interior size of about a foot high and from
five to six inches wide, and as it will get very hot it will be
necessary to use good materials. It will be found the best
plan to employ a good bricklayer to do the work — if possible
a man who is used to it — as it is necessary to have it done
well, but, at the same time, it is far cheaper in the end
to have a properly fitted hot- water apparatus. It will be
found that, unless fuel is cheap, a great loss will result in a
very few years — in fact, more than would pay for the first
cost and maintenance of a hot-water apparatus, which would,
moreover, be of far greater practical use. The smoke, too,
from most flues is simply a nuisance, oft times to an intolerable
degree, whereas there is but little smoke from properly set
boilers, for, generally, these latter consume their own smoke.
The stoking is also a subject that few persons will undertake,
as the fire wants attention every few hours, and, from expe-
rience, we can confidently say that it is no pleasant job to have
to get out of bed at three or four o'clock in the morning to look
after the fires, and perhaps find it raining or snowing hard.

In concluding our notice of heating we may add that a few
mats thrown over the roof or front of a house to exclude the
wind from the laps in the glass, will often save a great deal
of firing, while a stout canvas cover, such as a rick cloth, if
fastened so as to leave a space between it and the glass, will
make a difference of several degrees. The hardier the plants
the less heat will be required, and it is as well to keep the
plants as hardy as possible.

iv.-Insects.

ET destruction, and, still more, prevention,
be applied to insect pests, which, are
of more importance, and engross more
time and cause more trouble than is
generally allowed by amateurs. There is
not the least excuse for having plants
covered with insects of any kind, as they
are all amenable to proper treatment; and
it must always be borne in mind that a
crop of insects most decidedly means a
vast quantity of unprofitable work, and
work that could be easily avoided if the
proper method of doing things were only taken. It is not of the
least use relying on clearing off the insects in one lot, should they
become too numerous, " because a few cannot do much harm," as
that is just where the mischief lies ; for two or three scale, or
aphides, or red spider, multiply and grow very numerous, and
what could have been done in half an hour a fortnight ago takes
five or six hours now, and much damage has been done besides.

Where it is really desired to grow plants worth looking at it is
absolutely necessary that all insect pests should he destroyed
when they first apjpear, and close attention should be given to
this matter, for on the absence of insects. the future of the
plants depends. If an aphis or other insect is seen, crush it at
once; or should a slug or snail leave its slimy track across a
leaf or on the floor of the house, hunt till his death can be safely

38 Greenhouse Management for Atnafeurs.

registered; and if ferns or orchids appear to be eaten, do not
rest until every wood-louse, beetle, and cockroacb is exter-
minated, as it is a certain fact that where there is one now, in a
short time there will be hundreds. No sentimental feeling
should be allowed to get the better of us in this work, for
sentiment and good plants will not go together. The live-and-
let-live policy is no good in plant growing, as it does not work
well, neither is it satisfactory so far as the results go.

Amongst tbe insects that are injurious to pot plants may be
enumerated aphides, thrips, red spider, scale, caterpillars, wood-
lice, and the ordinary slugs and snails ; while weevils, wire
worms, juli, and maggots also attack some plants. The first
three are perhaps the most troublesome, as they are so prolific,
though in a collection of hard-wooded plants scale is very
troublesome, but still if they are taken in time a little care will
soon eradicate them. Wire worms and juli are not so easy to be
rid of, as they are in the soil, and are not always suspected until
the mischief is done, and then the matter is past recall.
Maggots in cutting pots at times do much damage, but they are
easily managed. Wood-lice are perhaps the most troublesome
of all the larger insects, as there is great difficulty in persuading
them to come and be killed. In fact, once get a stock of them
and they remain for ever. We will take the insects we have
named in rotation, and give some remedies that have been found
useful for their destruction, premising that all insecticides are
used with due care and discrimination.

Ants. — In the greenhouse the presence of ants is a source of
unmitigated trouble, and unless stopped in time, the insects
will work great mischief. The damage done is principally
mechanical, and the plants are not in any way injured in the^
manner that aphides or red spider cause injury, but the soil
in the pots is disturbed, and the plants are seriously injured
by~^EEi^t means. As a rule, the plants die, or at least, become
much injured by the water passing through the pots by means
of the ant runs, instead of going through the whole of the
soil and moistening it, and, therefore, some means must be
taken to destroy the producers of this evil. Where there is

Insects.

plenty of dry rotten wood, virgin cork, or other light dry
material in which they can work, the large black ants are liable
to put in an appearance, but the small black ant is the one
that is most to be feared. The red ant, too, will sometimes
be found, but not so often as the black ones, and, as the same
methods can be used for the destruction of the whole family,
it matters but little which attacks have to be guarded against.

Where the ants have taken up their head-quarters in pots, the
best, and, indeed, the only plan, is to p] unge the pots in water
for ten or twelve hours, and so drown the insects. In this it is
necessary to use some discrimination, as balsams and plants of
a similar nature would not do well if this treatment was often
repeated, and hard-wooded plants at rest would in many cases
start into growth prematurely, and thus perhaps the cure would
be worse than the disease. As, however, in the greenhouse
proper, the plants and the ants commence active life together as
the weather becomes warm, this flooding is not likely to do much
harm, but still some amount of judgment is necessary, as at
times failures do occur.

Our favourite plan, although a dangerous one, can easily be
applied to all plants not in pots, and, as we never have a failure,
we give it here. To half-a-pound of fine sugar add an ounce of
white arsenic, and mix intimately with about a pound of medium
■oatmeal, keeping the whole dry. To use, spread small portions
about the places the ants frequent, and in a very short time they
will all disappear. Again : Two ounces of white arsenic boiled in
about a half -pint of water, to which is added, after the mixture is
boiled, a quarter-pound of treacle, and allowed to cool. To use,
dip a sponge or piece of bone in the mixture, and place near the
haunts of the ants, or sprinkle the mixture around the hill or
infested place, and the ants consuming it, die in great numbers.
It is needless to state that these preparations of arsenic are
deadly poison, and should be used only when other remedies
fail. Great care should also be taken that the packages or
bottles containing these mixtures are labelled " poison, " and
kept in a secure place.

Other plans are to lay shallow saucers of oil near the runs of
the insects, in which large numbers will get killed — of course

40 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

changing tlie saucers sometimes. A sponge soaked in weak
sugar- water and placed in tlieir runs will collect a great many,
and if the sponge is taken up two or three times a day and
thrown into very hot water a large quantity can be killed. A
maiTOw bone is also a very good trap, the insects being scalded
to death when a large number have congregated together; and
there are also some other traps of a similar nature.

Boiling water poui'ed down the runs and nests of the ants
is of much use in destroying these pests ; but perhaps the best
and simplest plan is to see that no accumulations of soil exist
in out-of-the-way places, and that all the brickwork, flooring,
and woodwork is in sound condition, and free from crevices
in which these ants can make their nests. In no case can
carbolic acid, chloride of lime, or other offensive agents be
used in the greenhouse, as such do more harm than the ants
themselves.

Aphides. — Of these there are two that claim especial
attention — the green fly {Aphis rosce) and the black or cherry fly
{Aphis cerasi) — ^both of which have to loe combated at one time or
another. Everyone knows the green fly, which seems to have an
indiscriminate taste for feeding on all succulent foliage, and
which, if taken in time, is easily kept under. There is this tO'
remember, however, and that is, the harder the foliage on which
the aphides feed the harder it is to destroy them.

Fowler's Insecticide, if applied as directed on the bottles, is a
good remedy, and one that does not injure the plants. It is alsa
not objectionable so far as appearance goes.

Gishurst Compound is another very good insecticide for hard
foliaged subjects, but it has to be washed off after twenty-four
hours or the foliage will be much stained. It is also not
advisable to apply this article to plants having hairy or woolly
leaves, or to plants having tender foliage, as the results will
frequently not be very desirable.

Tobacco water made from the liquid expressed from " pigtail,'*
"ladies' twist," and similar tobaccos, and sold by most large
seedsmen, is very useful for many subjects, but must not be
applied to tender foliage or blooms, as it leaves a stain. The

Insects, 4 1

strength is about a quarter ounce to the gallon of water, applied
in the evening and washed off in the morning following.

Pooley's Tobacco Powder is a very useful dry application, and
should be always at hand. It is the waste tobacco from the
large factories, and is mixed with lime and a small quantity of
assafoetida, but not enough to make the use of the powder
offensive. In this state it is sold duty free, and is consequently
much cheaper than snuff and quite as eifective. The powder
should be dredged or sprinkled on the plants thi'ough a small
dredger — a penny tin pepper-box answers admirably — and
washed off with the syringe the next morning. If allowed to
remain on too long it is apt to disfigure the plants, but with
ordinary care it is one of the safest and most easily applied
insecticides there is. Hardman's Insect Powder, applied with
one of the little tin French bellows to be had for a few pence of
most chemists, is a first-rate insecticide.

Fumigation with tobacco, tobacco paper, tobacco cloth, or any
of the numerous preparations of tobacco that are in the market,
is also a sure method of dealing with these pests, but it smells
badly, which renders fumigation particularly obnoxious where
ladies have the handling of plants. "Where plants are in full
bloom it is also very dangerous to use tobacco smoke, as it takes
all the blooms off ; therefore, before fumigating any plant house,
it is necessary to remove all the plants that may be in bloom —
a task that cannot always be performed. The whole of the
plants in the house should be fairly dry at the roots, and the
foliage should be quite dry when fumigation has to be done,
care also should be taken that there is no water on the leaves,
or there is a great probability of the foliage being badly
spotted, so spoiling the beauty of the plants and injuring
them as well. When all is ready, two or three pots should be
prepared by placing some well-lighted charcoal in the bottom
of each, and on this the fumigating material in a damp state
should be placed. The material should have been previously
prepared by tearing into small pieces, and it should be just
damp enough not to flame, or the consequences will be disas-
trous to the plants around. Care must be taken that the pots
do not burst into a flame after they are lighted, but otherwise

42 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

no further attention is requisite. The necessary amount of
smoke is difficult to determine accurately, but it is better to
give two or three fumigations on alternate nights than to
overdo the matter in the first fumigation. Of course, it is
desirable, or rather necessary, that all the glass in the house
is in good condition, and that extra large crevices are stopped
up with moss or other material, so that the smoke shall be
kept in the house as long as possible, or it will only be waste
of time and material to attempt to fumigate the place. The
morning after fumigating, the plants should be thoroughly
syringed, and plenty of fresh air should be admitted to clear
off the bad smell, and reduce the bad eilects on the plants, if
there is any chance of such effects occurring ; and in fact the
place should be thoroughly cleaned out. Where the plants are
badly infested with fly, at least thi*ee fumigations on alternate
evenings will be necessary to destroy the young broods, but
if taken in time one fumigation will be sufficient. Where the
expense is not objected to, one of Dreschler's or Tebb's fumi-
gators will be found to far supersede the use of pots ; or if the
matter of a guinea is not too much, one of Brown's patent
fumigators will render the process of filling the house with
smoke a not very unpleasant matter, as the operator can stand
outside with the machine and fill it both rapidly and well
with no further trouble than turning a handle. In fact, for the
amateur there is no machine to beat Brown's, as no incon-
venience need be experienced with it.

Other methods of destroying aphides besides those we have
mentioned are in use, but they are not so useful to the amateur.
If a few plants only are infested, they can be fumigated under
a box ; but the use of some insecticide will be found preferable
as a rule.

Caterpillars. — Catei'pillars and grubs of various kinds
sometimes attack the foliage of plants, but the attacks are
more particularly confined to those which have large suc-
culent leaves, such as pelargoniums, and on these they
show to serious disadvantage. The common butterflies do
very great damage amongst collections of tricolour geraniums

Insects. 43

and otter plants of a like nature, and therefore it is a
matter of good policy to keep them from entering the
house if possible. This is best done by using tiffany net-
ting, or Hay thorn's netting, over all the openings ; but where
this cannot be done it is advisable to destroy all the butter-
flies that can be caught. Next to this, constant attention,
so far as examining the plants and destroying the caterpillars
go, is all that can be done, and hand-picking is the only
real remedy. There is no application of any real service, and
therefore it is really useless to go further into the matter.
Hand-picking and constant attention are the only remedies, and
without these the foliage is sure to be punctured and eaten.

Maggots. — It frequently happens that in cutting pots a
large white maggot puts in an appearance, and, in some cases,
it does a great deal of damage. There is only one remedy for
these maggots, and that is to bake the sand before using it.
As, however, it is only in dirty sand that the maggots appear,
cleanliness is one of the first requisites, and it is by having
clean-washed sand that the best results can be had. If the
maggots appear at any time, there is nothing left but to take the
cuttings out and bake the sand. There is no application that can
be safely applied to the pots for the destruction of these insects.

Red Spider. — The red spider {Acariis telarius) is one of the
worst insects that can get into a house, and, at the same time, is
one of the most difficult to eradicate. When the conditions
under which they thrive best are known, it should be an easy
matter to prevent the appearance of the spider from obtaining
any great headway; but at times the plants require an
atmospheric condition that is favourable to the spider, and then
it is that various remedies have to be employed to destroy it. A
dry arid atmosphere, combined with dryness at the roots of the
plants, will be almost certain to cause the red spider to put in an
appearance, and outdoors, in very hot dry weather, the insects
also appear, and thence gain an entry into the house. Some
plants are more liable to the attacks of spider than others, and
special treatment has to be given in such cases, but with the

44 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

ordinary stock plenty of clean water applied with the syringe to
both surfaces of the foliage, and applied pretty often, will be
found as good a cure as any. We have no faith in insecticides
for this purpose, but there is no harm, in trying them if it is
desired to spend money over the matter.

Where it is not convenient to use the syringe, sulphur can be
dusted over, or rather under, the foliage and blown off with a
pair of bellows in a few hours, and in many cases this will be an
effectual cure, but care must be taken that the foliage is not
injured by the sulphur. To this end it is desirable that the full
sun should not be allowed to reach the foliage while the sulphur
is on, as the fumes given off would perhaps do injury.

Another good plan where there is much spider is to paint the
hot-water pipes with a mixture of sulphur and clay, and then to
warm the pipes to a nice heat, about as warm as the hand can
bear comfortably, as if the heat is too great the plants will
suffer from the fumes. In fact, this process should only be
attempted by persons who are conversant with fumigating with
sulphur, or serious effects may be caused.

A modification of the above is to heat some bricks in boiling
water, and when nearly at the boiling heat they should be taken
into the house and sprinkled with flowers of sulphur. On no
account must the bricks be placed under tender or delicate
plants, nor should they be placed so that the streams of ascending
fumes impinge on any climbers on the roof, or the foliage will
be seriously damaged. In no case must the bricks be heated in
a fire.

Where practicable, the cold-water cure is, however, the best,
and gives the least trouble, and therefore it is the safest in the
hands of the amateur. The sulphur remedies require care to
use safely, and in unpractised hands often do more harm than
the red spider.

Snails and Slugs. — These are often introduced in the
pots in which are close-growing plants, and it is therefore
obvious that too great care cannot be taken to insure the
cleanliness of both pots and plants. In all cases before
introducing pots into the greenhouse or conservatory they

Insects. 45

should be examined carefully, especially in tlie drainage holes,
to see that neither the black nor white slugs are concealed
about them ; and the plants should also be looked over to see
that they are clear from insects, as one or two slugs or snails
will do damage to the extent of several pounds amongst valuable
plants. Faulty brickwork, badly- arranged ventilators, and dirty
houses, aU tend to render it more difficult to exclude slugs and
snails, and therefore these points should be carefully attended
to, on the reasoning that prevention is better than cure. Hand-
picking is the only way by which the number of these pests can
be reduced, and we always make it a rule that if a trace of
either slug or snail is seen, it should be traced to the end and
the insect destroyed. There is no application that will destroy
or deter these insects in the greenhouse, but outdoors soot and
lime are useful.

Little heaps of wet bran laid about will attract the slugs, as
will also cabbage leaves, and, in fact, any rubbish will attract
them. Hence the necessity of great cleanliness in and about
the houses.

Scale. — This is a very troublesome insect when once well
established, and great care is necessary where it exists, as it
soon spreads to other plants, and renders them comparatively
valueless. There are two kinds of scale — the brown and the
white — that are common, although there is, according to some
authorities, a large variety, various trees having their own
especial scale insect ; but this we will not discuss. Suffice it to
say that the brown scale is all that the amateur can wish for
without having a dozen or more to contend with. Scale renders
the plants unsightly, and does an immensity of damage, so that
it is a matter of urgent necessity that it should be destroyed
ere it gets established, or the hoase will never be clear. Of
course, if taken in time, before there are many insects on the
plants, but little harm, comparatively, will be done ; but woe to
the neglectful gardener who just lets the plants alone because
*' there are only two or three " scale on them. "We can assure
our readers that nothing is more prejudicial to the appearance
of the plants than this mode of doing work, and it should be,

46 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

therefore, most carefully avoided ; and anyone who takes the
destruction of insects in hand before they have had time to
become established — especially in the case of scale — will find
that the battle is won, whereas if the scale have once the upper
hand, only a losing war can be waged against them.

The methods of destroying scale are not numerous, and
they are very simple, albeit rather tedious. In the first place,
all the insects must be cleaned off, and then the stems of
the plants should be washed with tobacco water, to which soft
soap has been added in the proportion of two ounces to the
gallon. After cleaning the plants, the surface soil of the pots
should be carefully cleared off to the depth of from a half -inch
to an inch, and fresh soil added to fill up the vacancy thus
caused. If the scale again appears, the process must be again
repeated, nor the insects allowed to attain too large a size before
commencing operations against them.

Another plan is to apply weak size water with a, syringe to
plants such as oranges, camellias, and similar smooth-leaved
subjects, and washing off with lukewarm water forcibly applied
with a syringe after twenty-four hours. On no account must
this be applied to hairy-leaved plants, or where there would be
great difficulty in its speedy removal, for in such cases the
remedy is as bad as the disease. The first is the better plan for
the amateur to adopt.

Thrips. — These are perhaps one of the worst pests with
which plants can become infested, as they are both very small
and tenacious of life, while they multiply to a prodigious extent
in a very short time. iN'o plant that they are at least partial to
long escapes their attacks, and therefore it is very desirable
that, as soon as they appear, some steps should be taken to
destroy them. The general cause of their overininning a house
is, plants are purchased containing more or less of their
number, and thence they spread to other plants before they are
noticed. It is necessary to use some thorough methods of
destruction with them, and, whether fumigation is applied, or
some liquid insecticide is used, it is necessary that it shall be
repeated more than once, or in a few days the plants will be as

Insects.

badly infested as before. Fumigating for tbree alternate niglits
is a good remedy ; but it is necessary that no plants be in
bloom in the house, or the bloom will all fall off. For full
directions for fumigating, see under "Aphides."

Fowler's Insecticide is a good application, if applied on three
alternate evenings; and where it is possible from the hardy
nature of the plant to apply it, tobacco water made from the
liquid previously mentioned is good.

Simpson's Antidote, Gishurst Compound, and various other
insecticides are of use for destroying thrips, and, therefore,
we need only add that constant attention is the chief point to
be looked to.

Wireworm. — These are one of the greatest nuisances that
it is possible for a gardener to be plagued with, especially in the
case of the grower of carnations, pinks, stocks, and similar
plants. There is no application that can be made to the soil
for the destruction or eradication of these pests, and all that
remains is to pull the soil in pieces by hand, or to bake it, but
the latter process we object to, as it drives off some of the
more useful chemical constituents.

In the preparation of all soil likely to contain these insects^
it is desirable that it shall be carefully pulled into snch smaU
pieces as will not conceal them, unless, indeed, they be almost
invisible ; and when caught each worm should either be di\dded
or else consigned to the fire. If it is considered more desir-
able to bake the earth, this operation should be done in such
a manner as not to destroy the fibres in the soil, but it must
be continued for such a time as to render the compost dust dry,
and dry up any wireworm that is concealed therein. The same
treatment applies to juli, but these are not very often present.
In no case must soil be boiled, as is often recommended, as
boiling destroys its texture, thus entirely unfitting it for the
growth of plants.

Weevils. — These sometimes give trouble where vines are
grown, and they are not easily caught. The only effectual
plan is to spread a sheet of paper or a white cloth under

48 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

the infested plants, and at night to come out with a light and
shake the insects off and ciiish them. If, however, ordinary care
in the destruction of the common insects of the house is per-
sisted in, weevils of no kind will trouble the amateur, that is if
the place is kept clean ; but, as we said before, unless cleanliness
is maintained, a clean bill, as regards insects, cannot be
returned.

Woodlice. — These do much harm to fenis, tubers, and
various of the ordinary greenhouse plants, paring or rasping
off the outside cuticle, and then eating their way into the
interior of the stems, &c. Woodlice are a sure accompaniment
of dirt and decay of all kinds, and the cause removed, their
number soon dwindles. Yarious methods are employed to
destroy these pests, but only with partial success, as they
seem to resist all allurements whatever. The best plan that
we have found to succeed in practice was to fill a pot full
of dirty moss, to which a few crumbs of potato were added,
and leave the pot in one of their favourite haunts for a
few days, then taking it up and dropping the contents into a
pail of hot water, ridding the place of large numbers each time
of operating.

Another plan is to place raw potatoes, scooped out in the
centre, about their haunts, and to shake the woodlice into
a pail of hot water each morning; and, indeed, almost any
root will answer for this purpose, and a moderately large
turnip is a good trap when several fair-sized holes are bored
in. it.

A very effectual trap is to obtain some dry horse droppings,
and to mix a few potato parings amongst them ; place in
shallow boxes in dark places, and once a week empty the whole
into a fire or a pail of boiling water, by which means vast
quantities will be destroyed. Pouring boiling water around
the crevices where they mostly congregate is also effectual,
but the best plan is to stop all cracks and crevices in brickwork
and wood, to have sound, clean floors, thoroughly lime-whited
walls, and to keep a few toads about the place. Thorough
■cleanliness is the greatest enemy of woodlice.

Insects. 49

Mildew. — Although this is not an insect, or the effect of
insects, jet we give it a place here, as it has to he largely com-
bated in badly - ventilated or badly - managed houses. It is
simply the result of a warm, moist, and stagnant atmosphere,
and if this is not maintained mildew will rarely appear. In
a well-ventilated house mildew is not often troublesome.

Swing's composition is a good cure for this disease, as is also
flowers of sulphur applied one day and blown ofB the next.
With care, however, the plants will easily be kept free from
mildew, and where our directions are carried out not one of the
pests mentioned above will give much trouble.

In " Garden Pests and their Eradication,"* we have described
many other insects, which occasionally give trouble in the green-
house, with the best method of destroying them, and we must
refer our readers to that work should they unfortunately require
further information on the subject than is contained in this
chapter.

* "Garden Pests and their Eradication": Containing Practical Instructions for the
Amateur to OvRrcome the Enemies of the Garden. With numerous lUustiutions. In paper,
price Is., post free. London : L. Upcott Gill, 170, Stmnd, W.C.

VI.-DlCTIONARY OF PlANTS.

BELIA. — Hardy hard-wooded shrub ; grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature,
30deg. These are very ornamental and are
well suited for the cold greenhouse, either
trained on trellises or grown as pot plants.
They foi-m very neat bushes, from 18in. to
3ft. high, and when the blooms expand at the
ends of the shoots, either in twos or threes, or
perhaps singly, they have a very fine effect. The blooms are
about 2in. long, and divide at the top into five segments. In
appearance, the plants are like large daphnes, save as to the
flowers. They are very floriferous when well grown, and are of
very easy culture, growing well in a compost of peat and loam
in equal parts, to which a sufficient quantity of sharp sand has
been added. The care required is not much — simply watering,
<fec. — treatment as hardy plants being, in fact, sufficient. Of
course they will bloom earlier in the house than out of doors,
but forcing is not a desirable point with them. Such treatment
as recommended to camellias suits these evergreens well.

Propagation is performed by inserting cuttings in pots of
well drained compost of sand and loam, taking the cuttings
when the plants are at rest. As, however, propagation is best
done in houses devoted to this class of work, the amateur
will generally find it better to pm'chase small plants at a
nursery.

The better of the two varieties is A. fiorihunda, which bears

Cultural Directions. 51

observed to prevent tlie plants being starved, as sucli starving
tends to an early maturity, when the blooms are either to a
large extent abortive, or they are small and stunted, while the
plant itself is &o diminished in size, injured in constitution,
and the foliage so small and distorted, as to leave much doubt as
to the identity of the variety itself. Insects are also very ob-
jectionable for the same reason, as well as from the mechanical
haiin they do in devouring the foliage, and, as it were, destroying
the lungs of the plants.

The chief points in growing annuals are slow and steady
growth, giving sturdy and fii-m habit, and with those plants
which are from any reason too slender or weak to support them-
selves, a careful training and supporting by artificial means.
Great care is also necessary to ensure a sturdy growth under
glass, and the best means of preventing the plants drawing to
an undue extent is to afford them as much air as possible, and
to keep them as near the glass as their individual habits will
allow.

Hardy Annuals are only of real practical utility for early
work, i.e., until about June, and therefore it is necessary that
they be sown in the September previous. The way we grow
hardy annuals for this and some other purposes is as follows :
In the second week in September seed is sown of the various
plants we require to stand the winter and the seed beds are well
attended to until the plants are large enough to handle. Some
beds of poor and rather sandy soil are then prepared, so that
the glass of the lights does not stand above 6in. or 7in. from
the soil. Into these beds the plants are transplanted, being
set about three inches apai*t each way, or, with very slender
things, two inches apart. After planting, the beds have a good
soaking of water, and the lights are kept closed for a few days,
but after a week the lights are removed on eveiy favouraole
opportunity, and open at all times, except in frost or fog. The
plants are prevented from becoming frozen, and the supply of
moisture is so regulated that there is no rotting off during
the winter months, and insects are kept in check. If fumigation
has to be resorted to, great care is taken that the foliage is

E 2

52 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

perfectly dry, or the results would be most disastrous, the smoke
having a great tendency to destroy it when it is damp. About
February or March, according to the situation of the gai-den and
earliness of the season, the plants are carefully taken up and
potted in four or six-inch pots, in a good rich sandy com-
post, and a fair amount of drainage afforded. The soil is in a
moist but not wet state, and, after potting, the plants stand for
a day or two before watering. If, after potting, they are taken
into a gi-eenhouse at a temperatm'e of about 45deg., and there
placed in a light position near the glass, kept watered, and
otherwise attended to, they soon come into bloom, and when
fully out are removed where they are required. Successional
batches are taken in as needed, and after the middle of April
they either remain in the frames or ai*e removed to the cold
house as desii-ed.

The following sorts are useful for the above purposes, and,
grown as described, will not fail to give satisfaction : Agrostemma
coeli-rosa, rose; Asperula azurea setosa, blue; Bartonla aurea^
yellow; Cacalia aurea, orange; C. coccinea, scarlet; Galandrinia
grandifiora, rose; C. speciosa, purple; Candytuft, the pui-ple and
crimson varieties; Chrysanthemum Dunnettii, double white and
double golden; C. Burridgeanum, crimson and white; Clarlcia
pulchella, var. Tom Thumb, rose ; C. p., var. Tom Thumb, alba,
white; CoUinsia hicolor, lilac and white; C. multicolor, crimson,
black and white ; Convolvulus minor, various ; Coreopsis nigra
nana, dark red ; Erysimum Perofshianum, orange ; Eucharidium
grandiflorum, red; E. g. roseum, rose; Gilia minima coerulea,
blue; (rocZe^ia, The Bride, white and crimson; Godetia Whitneyi,
blush and crimson; Godetia, Lady Albemarle, carmine; Gyp-
sophila elegans, lilac; Hibiscus Africanus major, primrose; S,
calisureus, crimson, with black eye ; Jacobcea, in double crimson,
pui'ple, rose, and white; Kaulfussia amelloides, blue; Lark-
spurs in variety; Leptosiphons in various coloui's ; Malope
grandifiora, crimson ; Mignonette ; Mimulus in variety, which
can be treated as annuals, although they are strictly perennials ;
Nastui'tiums of the Tom Thumb section; Nemophila insignis,
blue; N. i. grandifiora, hlue ; JSf. i. marg inata, hlue and white;
K atomaria coslestis oculata, blue with black centre; N. dis-

Cultural Directions. 53

coidalis, black ; Nigella, both, blue and purple ; Sanvitalia pro-
cumhens, botb single and double, yellow ; Saponaria Calahrica,
pink ; Silene pendula compacta, rose pink ; Yirginian Stock, red
and white; Viscaria oculata nana, pink; F. elegans pida, crimson
and wbite; WJiitlavia gloxinoides, white and blue: and Zea
japonica variegata, variegated maize.

Half-hardy Auuxials, unlike hardy annuals, will not stand
the winter in frames, but such sorts as are sown in autumn must be
kept in pots or in store pots through the winter. Take lobelias,
for instance — it is rare that anyone can obtain the plants of a
sufficient size if sown in spring, but if sown in August, and
pricked off into store pots or boxes, they can be wintered well,
and in spring when potted off they make fine plants. Some
things, such as marigolds, ageratum, one or two of the
amaranthuses, Eucnide hartonioides, tobacco, perilla, ricinus,
&c., if sown in the end of August, and kept in a light house
during the winter, do much better than if sown in spring ; at
the same time it is too difficult an operation for the majority
of amateurs. There is, of course, a little difficulty in keeping
annuals in a bouse, as they require plenty of light and air, and
not too much moisture, while the compost should be light and
fairly rich. A temperature of about 40deg. is also necessary,
but many degrees higher or lower will cause the plants to run
up dwindly or else fog off, either of which renders the trouble
taken of no avail. Where plants are kept in the manner
described above, they should be potted off in March and gradu-
ally hardened to plant out in May.

The best plan for amateurs to adopt is to sow the seeds
of the various half-hardy annuals in heat in January, and
gradually grow the plants on in wai-m frames, or in a green-
house, until April, when they should be transferred to the
frames to harden off preparatory to planting out in May. By
doing this, good results are obtained without the trouble of
keeping through the winter. "Well-drained seed pans or pots
should be prepared in January, and a compost used of rich light
soil ; these pans should be well watered and set aside for some
hours to drain. The seeds should be sown evenly and thinly

54 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

over the surface of tlie soil, and tlien covered witli their own
thickness of fine sandy compost. When placed in the position
they are to occupy, each pot should be covered with a sheet of
glass, and in a short time the young plants will appear. It is not
advisable to water the pots overhead; the better plan is to
stand each pot in a tub of water reaching to the rim of the pot
only, and when the water soaks through, the pots should be set
aside to drain, and then returned to their places, unless there is
plenty of drainage at their own spot, when they can be put there
as soon as they are removed from the tub. When the seeds
have fairly commenced growth the glasses should be gradually
removed, and the heat gradually diminished, air at the same time
being admitted to the plants in proportion to the rate at which
heat is taken off. When in rough leaf they should be potted off
into single pots, or two or three in a pot, according to the size,
of the plants and the purpose for which they are intended. If
for indoor use they should be put into small 60-sized pots, and
thence transferred to 4in. pots when the roots kiss the sides of
the pots ; but if for outside work they should — with the excep-
tion of such things as ricinus — be stood where they are to
remain until planted out. Plenty of drainage and a fairly rich
and light soil are necessary for the well-being of the plants,
whether grown in or outdoors. The general treatment is the
same as for half-hardy soft- wooded plants if grown indoors;
therefore we shall not refer to it further here.

For sorts of half-hardy annuals select from the following,
those marked with an asterisk being most suitable for house
decoration; Ahronia umbellata, rose; ^Acroclinium roseum,
rose; *J.. roseum alhuni, white; Alonsoa Warscewiczii compacta,
scarlet ; Amaranthus tricolor, hicolor, and melancholicus ruber,
fine foliage plants; Arctotis hreviscapa, orange; ^Asters of
sorts (to be sown in March) ; *Begonia sedeni Victoria, various
colours; ^Clintonia pulcliella,'^\xx^\Q and yellow; *G. pulchella
alba, white ; Convolvulus of sorts, various colours ; Datura
ceratocaulon, pink and white; D. chlorantha jl.-jpl., white; the
datui'as are very fine for borders ; * Eucnide bartonioides,
yellow ; Fenzlia diantliijiora, rosy lilac ; Gaillardia amblyodon,
deep red ; Helichrysum brachyrinchum, yellow ; Helijpterum

Cultural Directions. 55

8andfo7-dii, yellow ; Ice Plant, white ; Ipomoea Learii, violet and
blue ; I. rubro ccerulea, sky blue ; I. r. c. alba, wMte ; these
three are fine for greenhouse work, other Ipomceas are useful
for outside decoration ; marigolds, in variety : Martynia
fragrans, crimson ; ^Mesemhryanthemwin tricolor, crimson and
white; M. t. album, white, both useful for hot situations;
Nemesia versicolor corrvpacta, various colours ; Nicotiana vir-
ginica, pink; N. grandiflora purpurea, purple; N. macrophylla
gigantea, pink ; Nycterinia Capensis, white ; Perilla Nankin-
ensis and P. atro purpurea laciniatus, bedding foliage plants ;
Phlox Drummondii, various; *Portulacca, of sorts, stands
heat well; *Ithodanthe, of sorts, various; Ricinus, various
coloured foliage; Salpiglossis atro-purpurea, pui'ple; S. coccinea,
scarlet; *Schizantlius, of sorts; Stocks, of sorts; Tagetes sig-
nata pumila, yellow, excellent for bedding purposes ; Waitzia
aurea, yellow ; W. corymbosa, various ; and Zinnia, of sorts,
various colours, most useful for bedding purposes. The
above do not comprise some for which we shall give special
treatment.

Tender Annuals differ from the preceding, inasmuch as
they require to be grown under glass for the greater part, if not for
all the time of their existence. Balsams, cockscombs, and such
like are tender annuals, and as they well repay any trouble in
their culture, we have given separate instructions for their
growth under their own headings in the " Dictionary of Plants."
The chief points to be seen to are a light house in which
to grow the plants, and a careful system of attention by which
the j)lants will be kept as stocky as possible, as long, lanky
plants are not good to look upon.

Raising Seeds. — Besides annuals, there are a large number
of plants that can be raised from seeds, and, as they are often
difficult to manage, it will not be amiss to give a few hints on
the subject. The pot or pan in which the seeds are to be sown
should be about one-third filled with crocks, and the soil should
then be filled in to within about half an inch of the top, and
gently compressed by tapping the bottom of the pot on the bench.

56 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

The pots should tlien be stood in a tub of water, up to the rims,
until the water soaks tlirougk to the STirface, and then be set
aside to drain. When drained clear of all supei*fluous water, the
seeds can be sown on the surface, and a covering of fine soil
placed over them ; this covering of soil not to exceed the
thickness of the seeds themselves. With very small fine seeds
it is not desirable to cover at all with soil, but rather cover the
pot with a sheet of glass, and keep shaded until the seeds
germinate. In fact, with all but the larger seeds, it is desirable
that a sheet of glass be laid over the pot or pan in which they
are sown, as by this means undue evaporation is prevented, and
a more equable moisture both in the soil and atmosphere is
maintained. These points are particularly impoi'tant in the
case of old seeds, or those where from any cause the ger-
minating powers are feeble, such as is the case in seeds ripened
under adverse conditions, or which have not ripened on the
plant, although they have attained their full size ; indeed, too
much care cannot be taken to insure the proper conditions under
which the seeds will germinate. While on this subject we may
as well mention that there are but few seeds that will germinate
properly in a lower temperature than 45deg., and for the majority
of comparatively hardy plants that are raised under glass a
temperature of from 50deg. to 60deg. is most advantageous to
the raiser. With greenhouse plants generally the seeds should
be subjected to a heat of from 50deg. to 75deg., according to the
class of plants; and in palms, acacias, and some other hard
seeds, a temperature of from 75deg. to 105deg. will not be too
much, provided that a moist atmosphere is at the same time
equally maintained.

Watering is a very important subject where seeds are con-
cerned, for, unless this is done properly and in a consistent
manner, the seeds will either rot in the soil or else the young
plants will fog off ere they attain to sufficient size for potting
off. It is useless to slop water around indiscriminately : far
better leave the soil dry, as then the compost would not be
destroyed if the seeds or plants were. What is required is
sufficient judgment to tell when water is required, and to know
how to apply it. Where large quantities of pots are used for

Cultural Directions. 57

raising seeds, it is a good plan to keep a large square washing-
tray, but wliere only a few are used an ordinary tub is sufficient
for tlie watering process. The way to apply water is to stand
the pots in water to the rims, and to allow them to remain so
until the water has soaked up to the surface of the soil ; by this
method the whole of the soil becomes thoroughly moistened and
the tender plants are not wetted, a matter of some importance.
It is important to add that the water should be of the same
temperature as the house, or the roots will be chilled, and
the plants will, consequently, receive a more or less severe
check.

The soil in which seeds are raised should be of a sandy,
friable nature, so that when the plants are raised from the soil
for the purpose of repotting, there will be a quantity of the soil
adhering to the fibrous roots ; but, at the same time, it is
absolutely necessary that the soil shall be of such a nature that
it breaks up freely without injuring the roots. On these points,
however, the best medium is only attained by a little practice,
and if a whole page were written on this subject but little
practical service would be done.

In potting off the seedling plants, care should be taken to
shift them ere they become too large, and, for a few days, they
should receive as nearly as possible the same treatment as
before, and then they can be gradually brought round to that
which they are to receive for the future. In no case should
violent changes, either of soil or temperature, be indulged in,
and the treatment should always be as consistent as possible
with the recognised methods of culture.

Propagation. — This is one of the most difficult parts of plant
culture, and, unless proper conveniences exist, there are only
a comparatively few plants that can be readily propagated
by the general amateur. In nature, plants are most generally
increased by means of seeds, offsets, and stolons, or runners;
but in an artificial state cuttings, layers, and root division
are resorted to, and to meet the exigencies of trade these modes
of propagation are carried on to such an extent that the plants
become partially exhausted by the rapidity with which they

58 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

are multiplied, and their inability to become sufficiently
matured before being propagated from. If we take tbe ordinary
scarlet pelargonium as an instance, tbe plant as raised from
the seed is very robust, and with the general run of plants
will attain a height of 5ft. or 6ft. if a little care is taken ;
but let the plants be of sufficiently high merit to create a
demand, and it will be troublesome to make one of the
young plants attain a height of 2ft. or 3ft. This we have
practically tried when raising large standard plants, it being
far easier to graft good varieties on the top of seedling stems
than to attempt to raise standards on their own bottoms; while
seedlings do best on their own roots, simply because they are
not exhausted by undue multiplication.

Such plants as can be propagated by layers do not generally
deteriorate in so great a degree as those raised from cuttings,
and the deterioration is very much slower, but still, in time
the habit of the plant is in more or less degree changed.

Where the plants propagate themselves by offsets or stolons,
but little deterioration ensues, but still there is a tendency to
deteriorate in a florist's point of view. In fact, the propagation
of any kind of plant, if it has been improved, or in any way
altered from its natural foim, notwithstanding the care with
which it is done, tends to cause the plant to revert in a greater
or less degree to what it was naturally. Excessive propagation
tends to weaken the plant to a vast extent, and, therefore,
where possible it should be avoided. It is far better to have
double the number of stock plants than to risk the loss of
quality caused by over propagation.

In striking cuttings it is necessary that a free sandy soil
be used, and that the pots be well drained, also that the pots
are clean. The cuttings should be made of a moderate length
only, and should be cut close below a leaf, with a sharp,
smooth -edged knife. The cut should not be slanting, but
should be directly across the stem, so that the smallest possible
wound is made — with the exception of cuttings made from
deciduous shrubs in winter. With soft-wooded plants of a
sappy nature, it is advisable that a few hours should elapse
between the making and inserting of the cuttings; but with

Cultural Directions. 59

such things as fuchsias, verbenas, and other plants of a like
habit that have to be struck in bottom heat, the fresher the
cutting is the quicker will it root — at least, such is our expe-
rience. The soil in which cuttings (with the exception of
succulents) are inserted should be fairly moist, or in a good
state for ordinary potting, and on the top of the soil a half -
inch of sharp, dry, silver sand should be placed, which, as
the dibble is removed and the cutting inserted, fills the space
between the cutting and the soil, and so tends to cause a more
certain result. After the cuttings are inserted it is a good
plan to water the pots to settle the soil around them, and
after that the watering must depend on the requirements of
the plants, as no fixed i-ules can be made on these points, the
amount of water required wholly depending on circumstances
over which the grower alone has control.

As to the varieties and species of plants to be raised in
heat, these can only be ascertained by practice, as some persons
can raise plants best in heat, while others do this better in
the ordinary house, and hints on the subject are given with
the ordinary cultural directions in the "Dictionary of Plants."
In all cases with hard-wooded subjects, it is better to purchase
young plants from a nursery.

Layering consists of pegging a shoot or shoots of the subject
to be increased into a pot of soil, or into the borders out doors,
as the case may require, first making a slit in the under side
of the shoot.

Runners of plants should be pegged down on the surface
of a pot of soil, and when well rooted the connection with the
parent plant can be separated. For this purpose the ordinary
soil and treatment aiforded to the parent plant are all that is
necessary, except that the supply of moisture must be carefully
looked to, so that the young plants are not rotted by an undue
supply.

Offsets and divisions of the plants, as a rule, are very simple,
the plants thus obtained being treated in the same manner as the
old plants, with the exception of not being allowed to bloom,
and more attention being paid to watering, &c.

Striking cuttings in water and similar devices we do not

6o Greenhouse Managemetit for Amateurs.

hold witli; still tliey are at times practised with more or
less success ; but, as a rule, the young plants thus obtained
do very poorly, as the roots are very fragile, and get much
damaged in potting oif. We would rather lose half the cuttings
in the ordinary methods of propagation than strike the cuttings
in water and have such enfeebled plants as to be of no service
when groTNTi. In no case is it at all advisable to use methods
that tend to weaken the plants, as from experience we find
that amateui'S generally have enough trouble with the most
robust and healthy subjects, leaving out those which are
rendered difficult of culture by unfair propagation.

The temperature in which cuttings emit roots varies, but
for general purposes a temperature of about 60deg. will be found
the most useful, unless, indeed, bottom heat is required, and
then from 65deg. to Sodeg., according to the subjects, will be
found desirable. Care must always be taken that too great a
heat, or too moist an atmosphere, is not m-aintained, or the
results will not be of the most satisfactory kind. Of course,
with stove subjects that luxuriate in a moist heat, the condi-
tions under which the cuttings are struck must be somewhat
similar to that in which the plants grow, but with the ordinary
stock of the greenhouse great heat and moisture are quite
unnecessary, so far as good work is concerned.

It is useless to attempt to strike plants of the ordinary
character in an arid atmosphere, as they rarely succeed; and
if — as should be the case — the foliage is left on the cuttings,
the undue evaporation set up by such a method will cause both
foliage and stem to shrivel, and so prevent the attainment of
the end desired.

So soon as any kind of cuttings are well rooted, it is generally
desirable that they should be potted off, and this operation
should be carefully done, or the roots will be damaged, and, in
some cases, wholly destroyed, which, of coui'se, means the
partial or complete destruction of the plants ; in fact, the
loss of part of the roots at this period of the plant's existence is
felt for a long period aftei*wards, and with slow-rooting plants
it frequently causes failure. Too great care cannot possibly
be taken to keep the roots intact if real success is desired.

Cultural Directio7is,

Where plants are rooted in heat, the soil used for re-potting
should be of the same temperatui-e as that from which the
plants are taken, and the plants should be replaced in heat
for a few days until the roots have taken hold of the new soil, or
the chill given consequent on the change to a cooler temperature
will almost inevitably cause a severe check, from which it is
possible they may not recover until too late. All plants raised
in heat should be gradually hardened off, so that all checks are
avoided.

■^-

v.-(JuLTURAL Directions.

"^ Annuals — Raising Seeds
Propagation.

f^ N the decoration of either greenhouse
or conservatory, whether heated or
not, annuals form most important
decorative subjects, and as some of
these are of a particularly flori-
ferous nature, they make a vast
display amongst plants that are
quite devoid of bloom, leaving out
of the question the advantage they
have when mixed with other bloom-
ing plants. A few hardy annuals
in pots come in very handily early
in the season, particularly Nemo-
pliila insignis and Collinsia bicolor,
both of which are very easy to grow, and are also very effective.
We have found that in a cold house hardy annuals form a very
important feature, and plants grown as we shall hereafter describe
answer every expectation, and more than repay any trouble taken
with them. The chief point with annuals is to obtain plants that
are fully developed, and to gain this, as long a season of growth
as possible must be accorded them. AVhether we take green-
house annuals proper, or hardy annuals, great care must be

Dictionary of Plants. 63

reddish pink blooms, and is tlie more floriferous. A. triflora
does not produce its red flowers so freely as tlie other, and is not
so well suited to house culture, but still at times it is very useful
as a change.

Abutilon. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant ; grown for
foliage and flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. This is a
class of plants which, if well grown, are very beautiful, and
deserve a place in every collection, and more particularly where
heat can be given in the winter, as they will bloom well at that
time. The Abutilons are erect-growing plants, with foliage
somewhat resembling maple leaves, and bear rather bell-shaped
axillary flowers. They attain a height of from 3ft. to 5ft., but
should be kept down by pruning. Some varieties have varie-
gated foliage. As a rule, the plants will bear much hardship;
but while such may be the case with many of the varieties, there
are some which will not stand harsh treatment. In all classes of
work with these plants, the object should be to get hardy and
sturdy growth, but unnecessary time should not be wasted in the
process. For general treatment, the following will be found to
work in well where there is a mixed collection of plants, but of
course for special purposes some slight alterations will be
needed. For soil use rather sandy loam, enriched with about a
sixth part of well decayed manure, and pot fairly hard, but not
sufficiently so as to cause the soil to become sour and so unsuited
to proper plant growth. When planted out as wall or pillar
plants, the same soil should be used, and good drainage
provided, because sturdy, well-ripened wood produces the best
and largest amount of flowers. Plant out in a comparatively
small state, and by judicious training and pruning, the plants
will soon furnish a large space well and effectively. In pot
work the plants should be had in a small state — that is, in
4in. pots, and should be pruned into such a shape as will
cause them to form a handsomely shaped bush, the pruning
being done when growth is dormant. When growth has made
a fair start pot on into 6in. pots, and keep in a light position,
eo that the plants are not crowded by other subjects. In July
and August they can be stood out of doors, if necessary.

64 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

and in September again brouglit into tlie house, where tliey can,
if the house is warm enough, be kept in good form till Christ-
mas or later, and in a stove-house temperature through the
winter, but this part of the work is outside our present purpose.
"When the plants are again dormant they can be again repotted,
and treated as before, and fi*esh stock can always be kept
growing on to take the place of that which becomes too large for
the place. With A. Thompsoni a different plan can be pui-sued
and the following will be useful where room can be spared, and
will give a good stock of useful stuff for decorative purposes,
where a winter temperature of about SOdeg. can be kept up.
Strike a batch of cuttings in heat early in the season, and pot
off early into small pots. In June make up a rich bed out of
doors, and plant out the young plants about eighteen inches
apart. About once a fortnight cut round the roots with a
garden trowel about three inches from the stem, to prevent
them running away. Water when needed, and stop back the
shoots two or three times to get good bushy plants. Early
in September pot up into pots just large enough to hold the
roots, and for the greater part of the winter they will make a
really good display.

Abutilons are best propagated by means of cuttings struck in
heat, using good sandy loam for a rooting medium. When
rooted, pot off the cuttings into small pots, and when the roots
kiss the sides of the pots stop the plants back to cause bushy
growth. When young growth starts repot into 4in. pots, and
afterwards treat as before described.

Good varieties are A. striatum, A, Fattersoni, A. Verschaffelti,
A. vexillarium, A. Boule de Neige, A. Thompsoni, and A. vexil-
larium variegatum.

Acacia. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant; grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. -Acacias afford some
of the most beautiful shades of yellow, and as they are early
they combine with the first azaleas, and help to produce an
effect that is unattainable without them. The bright tassels
of yellow bloom inserted at the base of the leaf stalks
and the dark foliage form a beautiful contrast, and is, in our

Dictionary of Plants. 65

opinion, more e:ffective in securing admiration than the more
gaudy cytisus. Of course, the cytisus is an invaluable aid in
arranging a large show, and one or two plants are useful, but
the preference should rather be given to the different Acacias
than to the last-named plant. The Armata section form dense
bushes of dark foliage and stems from 1ft. to 5ft. high, and
are much branched, while the taller growing kinds, such as
A. dealhata, make a less branched growth, and bear more or
less finely-divided leaves, like the Rose Acacia of the outdoor
gardens, but have tassels like axillary flowers, instead of
papilionaceous ones, as with the Rose Acacia {Robinia). The
Acacias we are now referring to are not the common Acacias
of the garden (Robinia pseudo-acacia), but Acacias proper, none
of which are really hardy. There are several varieties of this
family in nse in our English gardens at the present time, the
•commonest of all being, perhaps, A. armata, a variety that
has small globular tassels of bloom at the axils of the leaves.
This variety is frequently seen in markets and on the coster-
mongers' barrows, and ranges in price from Is. Gd. to 5s. for
plants fit for an amateur, while for large plants the price
varies from 10s. to £5. The majority of growers have the
plants very ugly, but it is really very little trouble to train
Acacias into shape, if the training is commenced when the
plants are young, but if they are allowed to get old and hard
stemmed, then little hope can be held out on the subject of
shapely plants, the wood being so very brittle. Some of these
are also useful for pillars and trellises, the best for the pur-
poses being A. dealhata, A. longifolia magnifica, A. lopliantlia,
A. pubescens, and A. verticillata.

In training, the first thing is to determine what form the
plants have to assume, and when this is settled satisfactorily,
the necessary work of forming the base or frame of the plants
must be proceeded with. The framework of these subjects must
be formed or built up as the plant grows, for it is not often that
sufficient bottom growth can be obtained after the plant has
made a head. The size and height must, of course, depend on
the size of the house, but for general use we find pyramids
about 30in. high to be most suitable. Standards are also very

66 Greenhouse Majiagement for Amateurs.

useful, and may be somewliat liiglier tlian other shajDes, but
with them it is advisable to have conical heads, as it sets off the
bloom to greater advantage. The great point to be aimed at in
training Acacias is to have a central stem, and to build up the
framework of the plant while it is still pliable and young. '

Our plan of cultivation with all free growing plants is to
obtain good, sturdy, and at the same time free growth, to obtain
it as early in the season as is consistent with safety, and to
harden ofE and ripen the wood perfectly before the wet cold
weather sets in. To get these results as much of the growth
as possible should be made in the frames (in the case of nearly
hardy plants like Acacias), and, if possible, the plants should
have a structure to themselves, but, of course, this is not
generally obtainable, and, therefore, the lightest and driest part
of the house should be set apart for them.

For soil for Acacias use equal parts of maiden loam and
sandy peat, with enough sharp sand to keep the compost open.
Manure in no form enters into our compost, as we consider that
it tends to miake the young wood too soft and sappy, but it is
often recommended by some gardeners as a part of the compost.

For amateur use, the best method of propagation is by means
of seeds. Sow in pots or pans of well-di-ained sandy loam, and
place on a gentle bottom heat, or if such is not at hand, in the
greenhouse. If the seed is sown in spring, and the plants are
potted on during the summer, they will make good plants the
second year. A. armata and similar kinds are best purchased,
however, as they are cheap, and a lot of trouble is saved.

There are about twenty sorts or varieties of Acacia, all of
which are useful and of easy culture. We have found the
following to be amongst the best : A. afinis, A. armata, A.
coccinea, A. dealhata, A. eriocarpa, A. lophantha, A. pithescens,
and A. verticillata, all of which are not yellow.

Acers. — Hardy hard-wooded plant; grown for foliage^
Minimum temperature, 28deg. Acers are a class of a highly
decorative order, and may with advantage be represented in
nearly all collections of fine foliage plants. They are free-
growing and moderately-branched trees, bearing leaves with

Dictionary of Plants. 67

from three to five lobes, and tlie foliage in tlie kinds named
is very ornamental. Tlie size of the specimens for greenhouse
■work is regulated by pruning, but they are best when from 2ft.
to 5ft. in height. The flowers, when borne, are valueless from
a decorative point of view.

This class of plant is very effective on stems, as standards
or half standards, and in these forms give a more finished
appearance to a high structure than it would otherwise have.
Of course, the larger the tree the larger the house required, and
this must be borne in mind when purchasing.

We have grown these plants in rather rich loam and sand,
with just a little manure, and they did thoroughly well, the
variegated foliage coming very finely in this soil. Pruning
must be done in spring, before the growth commences, and
the last year's shoots should be reduced to three or four eyes.
This causes an abundance of young shoots that are well
furnished. We do not advise too early pruning, as wet will
sometimes cause the shoots to die back, as they are not of
solid construction.

All kinds of Maples ( J.cer) of the choicer kinds are grafted on
stocks of the commoner kinds, a process which is beyond the
reach of any but skilled operatives. Small plants should be
obtained at a good nursery, because not one amateur in a
hundred could do more than spoil the stocks on account of the
peculiar nature of the scions.

Amongst those sorts that may be tenned the best are A.
albophylla viride reticulata, A. atropurpurea, A. pahnatum, and
A. polymorphum variegatum.

Agapanthus. — Semi-hardy bulbous plant ; grown for flower
and general effect. Minimum temperature, 30deg. This is a
very old-fashioned plant, but at the same time its magnificent
heads of bloom render it a fit associate for the choicest plants.
The plant forms a large mass of flag-like leaves, about 2ft. high,
and the umbels of bloom are borne on strong footstalks well
above the foliage, the flowers being large and in great number in
each umbel. The flowers are blue (or white in alhiflora), and are
borne on stout footstalks, and vary from fifteen to twenty-five

68 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

in number, forming a magnificent liead of bloom. There is also
a variety witb striped leaves, but this we do not consider an
advantage, except when the plant is out of bloom. All offsets
must be kept removed during the growth, or the plants soon
become weak, and give but few blooms. These offsets should
be potted into small pots, and placed in a little bottom heat,
when they will root freely, and if treated in the same manner
as the old plants will make good blooming specimens. The soil
we use is one-half sandy loam and one-half thoroughly rotted
manure, with sufficient sand to keep the whole of a proper
porosity ; the pots being filled one-third full of crocks to insure
proper drainage. Pot the plants about March, and place in a
greenhouse or on a gentle bottom heat, and each time the pots
are filled with roots, repot into a size larger until sixteen or
twelve sized pots are reached, in which they should bloom.
During the whole of the growing season give abundance of
water, but this should be nearly discontinued during the season
of rest. As soon as the bloom is over place the plants out of
doors until autumn, when they should be removed into dry
cold frames or pits for the winter. In spring remove all dead
fibres and exhausted soil, and treat as before. "With established
plants it is an advantage to raise some in a pit as well as in a
greenhouse, as the season is prolonged by this means.

Propagation by division of the bulbs, or, more properly,
offsets when the plants are at rest. Treat as described for
the old plants.

Four sorts, A. umbellatus, blue, A. u. maxima, blue, A. u.
■variegata, blue, variegated striped foliage, and A. u. albifiora,
white, are the sorts mostly catalogued, and are all good.

Agave. — Succulent gi-eenhouse plant ; grown for its foliage.
Minimum temperature, 40deg. These plants, Aloes as they are
generally termed, are of easy cultui*e, and need only an annual
potting to keep them In good health. We prefer repotting in
April or May, using well-drained pots, and for soil, a compost
of about equal paiiis good yellow loam and pulverised mortar
rubbish, potting very firmly. During the season of growth a
good supply of water is needed, but beyond preventing the

FIG. 22.— AGAVE AMERICANA.

70 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

foliage from shrivelling, no water is required during the season
of rest. Great care should be taken to prevent the foliage
being scratched or damaged, and unless this is done they
become unsightly.

Propagation is effected by taking off the offsets, which are
produced pretty freely round the collar of the main pIPvnts,
and striking in sandy soil, preferably with a little bottom
heat.

Good kinds for our present purpose are Agave Americana (see
Fig. 22) variegata, A. applanata, A. Verschaffelti and A. univittata.

Ageratum. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant; grown for its
flowers, and for bedding purposes. Minimum temperature,
40deg. Ageratums, which are somewhat extensively used for
bedding purposes, are also very useful for the conservatory if
well grown. They are rather hairy-foliaged j)lants, ranging
from 9in. to 2ft. in height, and bearing terminal clusters of
cushion-shaped flowers, which are of varying shades of blue,
and, in some varieties, white ; in habit, they are somewhat like
the calceolaria. Whether the dwarf or tall sorts are chosen,
they come in useful, although, in our opinion, the larger sorts
are best for the cool conservatory, and the more dwarf kinds for
outdoor work. The culture is very easy, and within the reach
of everyone who has a hot bed on which to raise the seed,
for although Ageratums can be raised from cuttings, the same
as other bedding plants, they are done easiest from seeds. "We
sow the seeds in January, in heat, on sandy soil, barely covering
the seeds, and as soon as the young plants are large enough,
we prick them off into thumb pots, and place in heat till they
grow freely, and then they are brought into the warmest part
of the greenhouse. Those for bedding we rarely repot, but
those for indoors we shift as the present pots are full of roots,
and keep on shifting until the end of June, when the pots used
are lOin. or 12in. "When these pots are full of roots, the plants
are watered with liquid manure twice a week, and they soon
bloom well, and make fine specimens. During the whole of
the hot weather the plants are well syi'inged with cold water
daily, to keep down red spider, and after July they are kept

Dictionary of Plants. 71

m a cold frame until wanted indoors, but those for beddine
purposes are put out in tbe end of June.

Propagated from seeds as described above, and from cuttings
struck in bottom heat in spring. "We, however, prefer seeds,
as they come fairly true to name and are far less trouble than
cuttings.

For sorts we use the old tall form of A. Mexicanum, which
varies from azure to greyish blue, and the white A. Imperial
Dwarf, and for bedding the latter named variety, A. Imperial
Dwarf (blue), and A. Tom Thumb (blue), both indoors and out,
but particularly in warm situations in the country. It is also
very useful in a warm light house for cut blooms, from Christmas
till April, but it must be kept clear of insects.

Alonsoa. — Half hardy annuals ; grown for flowers and
general apj^earance. Minimum temperature, 45deg., or for
winter work, 55deg. These are showy plants, useful alike for
indoor use, or summer decoration outdoors. The culture is very
simple, being in fact the same as that for the ordinary stock of
the greenhouse. Some of the varieties will bloom nearly the
whole year round. They require a good rich light soil, similar
to that which is used for several other plants, and as the plants
go out of bloom they should be cut down, and they will bloom
again in six weeks or two months.

A. incisifolia, scarlet, and A. Warsceiviczii, deep orange,
with black centre, are two of the best for the purjiose in hand.

Propagated from seeds sown in March or April in gentle
heat. Although really annuals, they will, like many other
subjects, last several years as perennials, and be treated as such
at pleasure.

The following are good kinds : A. Warscewiczii compacta,
scarlet ; A. Warscewiczii, deep orange ; A. linifolia, scarlet ; A.
incisifolia, scarlet ; and A. myrtifolia, scarlet.

Aloysia. — Greenhouse semi-hard-wooded plant ; grown for
its finely scented foliage. Minimum temperature when at rest,
30deg. Alo2jsia citriodora is a shrub that should never be
omitted from a collection of plants, as its perfume is so fine, and

72 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

the appearance is so graceful, if the plant is -well grown.
Large plants are not as a rule desirable, but if room exists,
they may be had on pillars, or trellises against walls. It
bears long ovate lanceolate leaves of about 2in. in length in
well-grown specimens, and the habit of growth is erect, and
sparsely bushy in the current year's wood. It makes a bushy
shrub, from 18in. to 3ft. liigh, according to age, and will bear
pruning well. The flowers are of small value for decorative
purposes. The first j)oint in growing the Aloysia, or, as it is
more generally termed, Lemon Yerbena, is to afford generous
treatment, instead of adopting the stai*vation system that is
so much the practice. The best plan is to obtain well-grown
thrifty young plants in spring, and grow them on for the
season. As the wood ripens give less water until they are at
rest, when the water must be nearly, if not quite, withheld.
About the end of January bring into the light and warmth,
and water thoroughly ; as soon as the plants break, cut back
to three or four eyes, and when the young shoots are about an
inch long, re-pot into rich sandy soil, using pots a size or two
smaller than they were in before, and as soon as the pots are
full of roots re-pot into the pots that are to hold the plants
for the season. By this mode of culture good specimens can
be maintained for any length of time. It is almost useless to
think of keej)ing this plant in an evergreen state, as it soon
deteriorates if this is attempted.

Mr. J. Groom, of Henham Hall, writing to the Garden of
Sept. 11th, 1875, says ' " This little shrub, favourite though it
be, is seldom seen in good condition. When confined in a pot
it has generally a sickly aspect, but when planted out it becomes
a large bush, or forms a handsome pillar plant. In the kitchen
garden here, against a south wall, I have two plants of it that
are 10ft. in height, and at least 3yds. in width, and the
quantity of spray they yield for mixing with cut flowers is
surprising. The only care which they require is protection
from frost in winter, and to effect this they are generally
unnailed in November ; the branches are then tied into
bundles and enveloped thickly in hay bands. Upon these is
also put an outer covering of straw, which keeps all dry, their

Dicti07iary of Plants. 73

base being covered with, coal ashes. When all danger from
frost is over in spring the cover is removed, the branches are
spread out, and as soon as growth commences all dead wood is
removed, the main branches being re-fastened to the wall.
They require no summer training, their young growth being
continually cut off for the many purposes of decoration to
which they are applied, and to which they are so well
adapted."

We can fully indorse Mr. Groom's statement, and besides out-
door work as he describes, the " Lemon Plant " is very useful
in cold houses, where frost is only just excluded, provided they
are planted out in the borders. We can with pleasure recall to
memory a house where camellias were grown, and where a few
plants of Aloysia were in the borders, and they throve won-
derfully, and were the admiration of all visitors. We may add
that they are very easy to grow, and on no account should be
omitted from any collection.

Propagation is effected by cuttings inserted in bottom heat,
or by means of the small plants which, are formed on the
exposed roots at the base of the main stems. As, however, only
a very few plants are desirable, it is the better plan to purchase
them in a small state, as they are not very expensive.

Amaryllis. — Greenhouse bulbous plants ; grown for their
flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. This is a class of
bulbous plants that is well worthy of cultivation in every
collection, and although there may be some little trouble in
growing them to perfection, they yet repay for all care
bestowed on them. Like many other things, they have had
their rise and fall, and although rather more in fashion than
they were a short time back, they are not so much, cultivated
as they should be. Some of the varieties are evergreen, and
others deciduous, and although, the former require to be kept
in a drier state during the season of rest, they must not be
kept so dry as the deciduous kinds. The plants have flag-like
leaves, and these are from 1ft. to 18in. in length, the flowers
being borne on a stout footstalk, which rises well above the
foliage. The flowers are large and handsome, and in some

74 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

kinds they are from 2iin. to 3Mn. in diameter, and several are
borne on each, footstalk ; the petals are recurved. The soil
should be good sound fibrous loam, to which enough sand has
been added to preserve the natural porosity, and to prevent
the pots becoming waterlogged from the liberal apjplication
so necessary during their season of growth. Give plenty of
drainage, and not too much root space — although it is not
advisable to contract the roots too much — and good spikes of
bloom will be produced. A temperature of not less than 45deg.
is necessary in winter, and about 70deg. in the growing season.
The deciduous kinds should be dried off in winter, while the
evergreen kinds should have a diminished supply of water only.

Propagation is effected by division of the offsets or small
bulbs while the plants are at rest. When in the new small pots
and started into growth, treat the same as the old plants.

For sorts select from the following, which are all good : A.
Achermanii, A. aulica, A. a. superba, A. Amazon, A. Brilliant,
A. calyptrata, A. Cleopatra, A. conspicua, A. crocea grandifiora,
A. delicata, A. Diadem, A. Eclipse, A. Edith, A. Excellent, A.
falcata, A. Johnsonii, A. J. psittacina, A. longifolia, A. pardina,
A. Prince of Orange, A. regina, A. vittata, A. Yivid, and A.
William Pitt. It must, however, be borne in mind that
amaryllis require a warm greenhouse to do them at all well,
and it is quite useless to attempt their culture in a cold green-
house where the frost is only just kept out, as in such a house
the bulbs rot away.

Amygdalus. — Hardy tree ; grown for its flowers. Lowest
temperature for ]Dot specimens, 28deg. Almonds are very
pleasing subjects if obtained in a small pyramidal shape, and,
from their great beauty when in bloom, they form most appro-
priate subjects for the decoration of a medium-sized house.
They are, however, not suited to a small place, as the plants, to
bloom well and be effective, should be at least two or three
feet high, and, of course, wide in proportion. A pot should be
chosen that will hold the roots comfortably, and the tree
should be carefully potted, using soil that will work freely and
run into the interstices amongst the roots. After potting, water

Dictionary of Plants. 75

thorouglily, and place the trees in a cold vinery or frame for
a few weeks, when they can be removed to the place they are to
occupy. We have premised that the tree has been prepared
in the open ground in a nursery, and if such is the case if there
are plenty of good fibrous roots, there is no reason why the trees
should not bloom well the first year. A temperature of about
50deg. or 55deg. is amply sufficient to bring the plants into
bloom, and indeed a higher temperature is apt to frustrate the
object in view. Successional plants can be brought in from
time to time, as the bloom does not last very long. After
blooming the plants should be gradually hardened off until
about the end of May, when they should be plunged out of
doors for the season. Repotting should be done as soon as
the leaves fall.

Propagation is effected by grafting on the common plum
stock, and generally is beyond the reach of the amateur.

The best varieties of Amygdalus for our present purpose are
A. Persica jlore-jpleno, double pink ; A. P. fl. ])l. alba, double
white; A. P. caryojphyUoides, double carnation striped, and
A. P rubra, double crimson.

Anagallis. — Soft-wooded plant , grown for its flowers and
general appearance Minimum temperature, 35deg. This is
a somewhat old-fashioned dwai-f trailing or semi-trailing plant,
very useful for baskets, vases, and pot work, bearing a showy
and large amount of flowers, and being well adapted for general
cultivation. The blossoms are produced in great profusion,
and the plants are useful for both in and out-door work. The
treatment is easy in the extreme, as the plants will do in any
well-drained ordinary soil, all that is necessary being to pot
on till 4in. pots are reached, or to divide and re-pot in spring
as the case may be Practically the treatment is similar to
that of the ordinary stock of soft-wooded plants, and therefore
needs no farther description.

In the hands of the amateur, propagation is best effected by
means of seeds sown in spring in a warm greenhouse or frame
and then potted on, as the diff'erent varieties come true to name
from seeds.

76 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Some good varieties are : Anagallis grandifiora Br ewer ii, blue ;
A. g. Garibaldi, vermilion; A. g. Memoria deV Etna, bright red;
A. g. Parhsii, rose; A. g. Philipsii, blue; and A. g. Trionfo di
Firenze, pale blue.

Aniseed Tree. — See " Illicium."

Fig. 23.— Anthericum Liliastrum.

Authericum. — Hardy bulbous plant; grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 30deg. Antbericums are useful for
cold bouses, and as tbeir culture is simple and tbe price
moderate, tbey come within the reach of all. For soil use a
compost of fibrous loam and coarse sand, enriched with a little
thoroughly decomposed leaf soil, allowing plenty of drainage
to the pots. The pots should be comparatively large, but if

Dictionary of Pla^its. 77

they can be liad of a deep pattern, it is far better tban a wide
one. The number of roots to be grown must depend on the
size of the pots and on the size of the specimens required ;
but about three make a very good potful. Re-pot as soon as
growth commences, and keep watered as advised for lilies.
After blooming remove the pots to a bed of coal ashes and
supply with water until the plants are ripe. Keep from frost
and introduce to the house as required. A gentle warmth will
hasten the blooms a little, but if forcing is attempted but poor
results will be obtained.

Propagation is effected by division of the bulbs when at rest,
as like lilies they break up into several new bulbs from time
to time. After re-potting treat as above directed, or the
smaller bulbs can be planted out doors to gain size.

A. LUiago (St. Bernard's Lily), white ; A. Liliastrum (St.
Bruno's Lily), white (see Fig. 23) ; and A. graniinifolium, white,
are all good and repay the trouble^bestowed on them.

Aralia. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant ; grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 45deg. This is a family of
ornamental foliage plants, and as such is worthy of a place
where good-sized specimens can be used. Small plants of
Aralia are not desirable, as they do not show the full beauty
of the plant, and it is also not desirable to have big specimens
of these large foliage subjects, and therefore means must be
taken to restrict their growth to the proper proportions, not
by ill treatment, but by using a moderately poor soil, and very
firm potting. This we have found to answer very well, and
by having young plants every three or four years, nice speci-
mens can be kept. For soil good maiden loam, and enough sand
to keep it open, will be found to answer well, provided the
plants are potted firmly enough.

Propagation is effected by striking cuttings of young wood
taken olf with a heel of old wood attached, or half ripened
wood in the same way as fuchsias. A good plan is to use
gentle bottom heat, and get into small pots as soon as rooted.
Too extended a root run is not needed for young plants, as
they are liable to rot off at the collar when over-potted.

YiG. 24.-ARALIA SIEBOLDI.

Dictionary of Plants. 79

For sorts we prefer A. le'pto^liijUa, A. Sieholdi (see Fig, 24),
A. Sieholdi argentea variegata, and A. Sieholdi aurea variegata.
The last three are perhaps the best for an amateur's use.

Araucaria. — Greenhouse hard-wooded tree ; grown for foli-
age and general effect. Minimum temperature, 45deg. Like
the Aralias, these are valuable for their habit of growth and
graceful appearance, and not for any flowering properties.
They are useful where large houses have to be filled, and in
such situations are unequalled for effect by any other plants of
the same habit ; but they cannot be shown oft* to good advantage
in a small house. Xearly everyone knows the A. imhricata,
or Chilian monkey puzzle of gardens, and no doubt has
admired it greatly on account of its fine foliage and unique
form. When we say foliage, it must be remembered that these
plants belong to the pine tribes, and do not bear leaves in the
same way as apples or other trees, but, on the contrary, their
leaves are more like those of firs, pines, &c. The greenhouse
kinds are somewhat of the form of a silver fir, but with a much
more elegant appearance, and have a good effect, whether used
as small specimens, or as fair-sized plants about 3ft. or 4ft.
high. They are, however, best suited to large conservatories.

We have found a mixture of equal parts of maiden and
yellow loam, with a little sandy peat, do well for these plants ^
and keep them healthy ; but they must not be overpotted.

Propagation is by seeds raised in a strong bottom heat, and
as a rule is beyond the means of amateurs. Well grown plants
should therefore be purchased.

A. excelsa and A. Bidivilli are very good for oui* purpose, aa
are also A. Cooici and A. Cunninghami.

Arum. — Hardy bulbous plants; grown for both flowers and
foliage. Minimum temperature, 30deg. Some of these pay well
in the cold house, and the treatment bestowed is so nearly
similar to that required for Calla ^thiopica, that a detailed
description is not necessary. They all bear a likeness to the
calla, and vary in height from 1ft. to 2^it., but while the form
of the spathe is the same as that of the plant just mentioned,.

FIG. 25— ARUM CRINITUM.

Dictiona?y of Plants. 8i

the form of tlie foliage is in some cases quite distinct. The
roots must not become frozen, nor yet soddened witli water
during the season of rest, although it is not advisable that the
soil In the pots should become dust dry. During the season
of growth liberal supplies of water must be given, and due
care must be taken that the plants are not drawn up spindly.
The curious spathes are of various colours, brown, yellow, and
white being the chief, and the plants are certainly a change
on the ordinary subjects one so often sees. A house is not
really necessary for the plants, as a cold frame answers as well.

Propagation Is the same as with Calla Mtliio'pica.

We have used the following for the present purpose : A. alhi-
spathum, brown ; A. cornutum, yellow ; A. crinitum (see Fig. 25),
brown; A. Italicum, pale yellow; and A. maculatum, white.

Asparagus. — Greenhouse soft-wooded herbaceous plant ;
grown for its foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is a
plant that is very useful, on account of its fine feathery spray,
which works in well for bouquets and other floral decorations.
In the house It can be trained against arches, &c., and has a
very light appearance. The culture is very simple ; a large pot
filled one-third with crocks, and then to within an inch of the
top with rich, moderately light soil, being all that is required if
liberal waterings and plenty of air be given. The bright pea-
shaped hemes, or the insignificant blooms, are of far less iise
than the spray, which is very fine and chaste, and the plant
has a fine, feathery, and light appearance, quite distinct from
all other greenhouse plants. As a useful plant for cut spray
this stands pre-eminent.

Propagated from seeds sown on a gentle bottom heat in
spring. Seeds can only be had of a good nurseryman, as they
are not usually quoted in trade catalogues. It is, however,
well to start with a plant or two purchased at a nursery, and
then, with good luck and care, a good stock of plants can
be had.

Good kinds are Asparagus decumhens, A. racemosus and
A. plumosus nanus, which last is, however, expensive, costing
from 15s. to 21s, each.

82 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Aspidistra. — Greenliouse soft-wooded herbaceoiis plant ;.
'grown for foliage only. Minimum temperature, 40deg. From
their handsome appearance and general indifference to hard-
ships in the way of gas and dust, these plants are very desirable
for both greenhouse and room decoration. They have hand-
some flag-like foliage which, in the variegated form, is striped
with creamy white, and if kept clean this variety is very
pleasing. The blooms are not, however, of any decorative
value. The culture is very simple, as the plants do well in
almost any soil, but we prefer to have them in well-drained
pots of loam, or loam and peat. "When at rest they should
not be overwatered, but when growing freely plenty of water
is necessary; in no case should they be overpotted.

Propagation is effected by division, and sometimes a little
bottom heat is needed to make the young plants start freely.

The best kinds are Asjpidistra lurida, and its variegated form,
A. lurida variegata.

Asters. — Half hardy annuals ; grown for their flowers.
Minimum temperature, 45deg. These are much esteemed for
conservatory decoration when in pots, but our advice is, " Don't
grow pot Asters in the pots; grow them in the open garden.""
We have seen them grown, and grown them in pots oui-selves,
and never have we come across such good specimens as those
from the open garden. A bed of fairly rich good soil should
be prepared in the kitchen garden, taking care that it is free
from wireworms, and also that it is deeply dug. The seeds of
aster should be raised in a cold frame in March or April, and
when large enough, transplanted into the beds about 18in.
asunder each way. Attention in the way of weeding, waterings
&c., must be afforded, and when the first bloom opens, the
plant should be carefully taken ujd with a good ball of earth
adhering, and transferred to a pot sufficiently large to hold
the roots comfortably. The whole of the plants should be
served in the same manner as they become ready, and as soon
as they are potted they should be removed to a frame facing
the north, and kept shaded from sun, and should also receive
liberal supplies of moisture. In from three days to a week

Dictionary of Plants.

after potting tliey can be taken to the place they are to occupy.
We leave the choice of sorts to the intending grower, but
perhaps the pyramidal varieties are best. A reference to any
catalogue will give a wide selection of colours and varieties.
Propagated by seeds only.

Fio. 26.
Truffatjt's Pxkfection Aster.

Fig. 27.
p^ont-flowered aster.

Gdod sorts are Pseony-flowered (see Fig. 27), dwarf-chrysanthe-
mum-flowered, dwarf bouquet, and Betteridge's named varieties.

Astilbe. — See " Spiraea."

Aucuba. — Hardy shrub; grown for its berries and foliage.
Minimum temperature, 30deg. These plants, although not
really greenhouse plants, make a great show when well covered
with berries, and, as the foliage is pretty, they are worth any -
one's notice. In the first place, the plants are perfectly
hardy, and at the same time, of easy culture; and, besides,
they stand much knocking about, while the price is pretty
moderate. Plants fit for our present purpose can be had
from ninepence each, while similar plants, if well berried,
would cost from half-a-crown. Of course, a male plant is very
necessary to produce pollen, with which to impregnate the

G 2

84 Greenhouse M anagement for Amateurs.

blooms of tlie female plant, wliicb. alone produces seeds, or,
more properly, berries. The female plants are variously varie-
gated, some of them being more beautiful than others, but all
being noticeable for theii* glossy laurel-like leaves and fresh
and cheerful appearance, which, on ripeness, is further enhanced
by the beautiful scarlet of the berries. The bloom is rather
inconspicuous and, from a floncultural point of view, of no value,
the beauty of the plant lying in the foliage and berries. The
male plants have generally green leaves, which, if clean, have
a bright glossy appearance ; they are, of course, necessary for
the production of the fruit on the female plants, but one male
plant produces (if it blooms freely) sufficient pollen for the
impregnation of bundreds of female blooms.

The process of fertilising is very interesting, and brings out
the more delicate skill of the operator. "We say " delicate," as
it is useless to attempt this kind of work in an off-hand
manner, and with no more care than is generally exercised in
cutting a cabbage, or the result will most probably be that
the greater part of the available pollen will be lost, and the
crop of berries will be almost nil. The proper mode of opera-
ting is to collect the pollen from the anthers of the male
plant with a camel's-hair pencil, and then transfer it to the
pistils of the female. This requires great delicacy of touch,
especially as only a very few grains of pollen are necessary
to each pistU. The time for applying the pollen is when the
pistil exudes gummy matter, and otherwise shows signs of
maturity. It, however, often happens that from some unfore-
seen cause the male blooms are open, and the pollen matured
before the female blooms are ready. In this case it is well
to collect the pollen on a dry pencil and transfer to perfectly
dry sheets of glass, and when all the pollen is obtained, another
sheet of glass should be laid on that on which the pollen was
laid, and the whole should be placed in a dry, cool place till
wanted. P.ollen thus saved and stored will retain its vitality
for a long time ; in fact, we have used it when seven weeks old,
and it has given very good results, although not perhaps
60 good as would have been attained with pollen fresh from
the plant.

Dictionary of Plants. 85

The cultivation is very simple. Pot tlie plants firmly in
rather sandy yellow loam, allowing plenty of drainage; and
during the growing season allow plenty of water ; but as soon as
the growth is over less water will do. During the summer the
plants can be plunged into tlie borders out of doors, and can be
brought in again as soon as required to occupy their situations
in the house. One point we have, however, found of great im-
portance, and that is, always keep the plants in rather small
pots, so that the roots may not be allowed to ramble too much,
and so tend to produce vigorous and unfruitful growth, such
growth being most undesirable for our present purpose, however
desirable it may be for outdoor work. Short- jointed hard wood
is of most value for pot work, as it produces the best bloom,
while the free growing suckers that spring from the base of the
plant, as a rule, produce leaves only.

Propagation is effected by layering, by cuttings inserted in
cold frames early in November, or in pots of sandy soil in
January, on a gentle bottom heat. As, however, the plants are
very reasonable in price, it is doubtful if there is any gain
in propagating them to the exclusion of more profitable subjects.

For sorts, we prefer the following, as they have given general
satisfaction as far as we have had them under our notice.
There is, however, a difference in the berries, and as half a dozen
would not be over many in a house, one of each would not be
too many : A. ^(^'ponica alho variegata, A. japonica arborea vera
fcemina, A.jajjonica aureo maculata, A.japonica aureo margiyiata,
A. japonica lati-maculata, A. japonica longifolia, A. japonica
longifolia variegata elegans, for female varieties; and A.japonica
angustifolia maculata, A. japonica arborea vera mascula, and A.
japonica viridis mascula for males. A. japonica viridis fructu-albo
has round white or cream-coloured ben-ies, and green foliage ;
v^hile A. jaiJonica luteo-carpahsiS oval yellow berries and leaves
of a full green, splashed more or less with yellow. The ordi-
nary aucuba of the garden {A. japonica maculata) is too well
known to render any detailed description of the other rather
numerous varieties necessary, as they all are very similar in the
habit of growth and forai of the foliage, the distinction con-
sisting chiefly in the variation of the leaves.

86 Greenhouse Managemeyit for Amateurs.

Azalea Indica. — Greenlioiise shrub ; grown for flowers and
general appearance (see Fig. 28). Minimum temperature, 40deg.
These are one of the mainstays of an amateur's house, and
should be well represented, so that a continuance of bloom may
be kept up. We do not wish to imply that the stock of hard-
wooded plants should be wholly made up of the numerous
varieties of Azaleas, but still a good proportion should be kept.
In colour a very great diversity exists, from white to the
brightest scarlet, salmon, purple, red, rose, orange, yellow, and
various shades and tints of the different colours ; while at the
same time variegated flowers are in abundance ; blotched,
striped, and, in many cases, spotted flowers being produced,
rendering a collection of Azaleas well worth a visit at any time
from Chi'istmas till June, and in some places later. It is a good
plan to have a few plants (say two or three) of a sort, and say,
five or six sorts, according to the size of the house. Of course,
we should not advise more than a proper proportion of plants, as
there are numerous other subjects that afford a fine display of
differently habited forms, both of growth and blossom, and it
would be a pity to oust them for the sake of one class of plant —
many of the plants in question affording blue and yellow
flowers, an object of much importance in greenhouse fui*-
nishing.

The culture of the Azalea is very easy, and, in fact, anyone
can grow them if a few simple rules are followed In the first
place, potting claims attention — in fact, the way in which
the plants are potted has more effect on their blooming capa-
bilities than the soil in which they are potted. We make it a
rule to put at least an inch of drainage into 4in. pots, and 2in.
into 6in. pots and upwards, as we consider this is the first point
in successful culture. For soil we use three parts sound old
peat, one part best maiden loam, and one part sand. Using
the loam is, however, a matter of choice; some persons
omit it altogether, while others, again, use more than we do.
But it must be remembered that peat is generally employed for
all the heath family of which the Azalea is a member, and, there-
fore, it is necessary to use it in the compost. In repotting, the
whole of the crocks should be removed from the base of the ball

Dictionary of Plants,

of soil and roots, and tlie top should also be removed till tlie fine
roots are reacted. The plant should then be put in the new pot
and the soil that is put in should be rammed firm to prevent the
water running through it, and not wetting the ball of roots
inside. In all cases the roots next the stem should be above the
other soil, so that the water may not sink in next the stem,
or disaster will certainly ensue. After potting, the plants
should be kept close for a few days, and then may have the full
benefit of the air. The best time for potting is after the growth

^lO.-^/\

Fio. 28.— Azalea Indica.

has been made, as the roots tben elongate, and take hold of the
new soil. From October till June the plants should be in the
greenhouse, and the other months in a cold frame, or if that does
not exist, they should be plunged in the borders out of doors.
Water will have to be given abundantly through the blooming
and growing season, and at other times the plants must not
become dry, or no bloom will result. A proper amount of care
must of course be exercised, so that the plants are not swamped
one day and dried up the next ; but this will easily be seen by
the person who has the charge of the collection.

88 Greenhouse Managemerit for Amateurs.

Named varieties are propagated by grafting on seedling
stocks.

In regard to sorts, we find the following to be very good and
suitable for the purposes intended, and sucli a selection as we
give is almost sure to give everyone satisfaction : Admiration,
AmcBncb grandijiora, Bijou de Ledeberg, Brilliant, Cedo Nulli,
Comte de Hainault, Concinna, Criterion, Dieudonne, Due
d'Ai'emberg, Due de Nassau, Duke of Edinburgh, Exquisite,
Flag of Truce, Gem, Glory of Sunninghill, Grand Monarch, Her
Majesty, Indica Alba, Insignis, Lateritia alba suprema, Leeana,
Lizzie, Madame Ambroise Yerschaffelt, Madame van Houtte,
Magnifica, Mars, Ne Plus Ultra, President, Prince of Orange,
Princess Alexandra, Princess Helena, Purity, and Queen Victoria.
All the above can be obtained of Messrs. Yeitch and Co.,
King's-road, Chelsea, to whom we should advise readers to
apply if they have not a nurseryman who supplies them
regularly.

Azalea Sinensis, &c. — Hardy shrubs; grown for their
flowers. Minimum temperature, SOdeg. The hardy Azaleas are
very useful for the cool house, and also for those where a little
heat can be had, as they readily accommodate themselves to
various situations, and if gradually brought into a heated
structure, will bear a good amount of forcing. Plants should be
well established in pots for this purpose, and the general treat-
ment is much the same as for A. Indica ; that is, so far as the
management of the plants go. They- should be re-potted annually
as soon as the foliage is ripe, and either loam and peat in equal
parts, peat, or fibrous loam alone, can be used, provided that suffi-
cient sand is mixed with the soil, and a proper drainage is
afforded. The plants should be brought into a warm house in
successional batches ; and the plants for this purpose should be
kept in well ventilated cold frames, so that the sudden change
shall not bring the buds off. "With these, as with all plants, the
changes from cold to heat should be gradual, or the effects will
be most disastrous. In no case will nature perform its functions
if excited by fits and starts, or if too sudden changes are
indulged in.

Dictionary of Plants.

The colours are very bright, and range from, white through
orange to red, and from red to crimson, and while some have
blossoms while the stems are quite bare, others have both flowers
and foliage together.

Propagated by seeds in the common varieties, named sorts are
grafted on seedling stocks. Both processes are, however, beyond
the reach of the ordinary amateur, and as the plants are very
cheap they had better be purchased.

Fig. 29— Azalea Sinensis

The various hybrids, and varieties of A. Quollis, A. Sinensis
(see Fig. 29), A. nudifiora, and A. Pontica, are very useful, and
are obtainable at all hard- wood nurseries. It is, however, the
best plan to select the plants while in bloom, as the colours or
shades of colours are so numerous that no real idea of their
appearance can be written. Suffice to say all are good, and
reasonable in price.

Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

A L S A M. — Tender annual; grown for
flowers and general appearance ; mini-
mum temperature, SOdeg. A well-grown
Balsam is a plant of wliich tHe grower may-
be well proud, but it is rarely tliat it is
seen in good condition. Tbe general fault
with plants grown by amateurs is tbe long
stem and poor blooms — blooms that are not
even semi-double being very common — and,
except where Balsams form the one hobby of the grower, it
is rare to see the camellia flowered and other varieties in good
form. A good Balsam bloom should be quite as double as a
camellia, and to show to the greatest advantage should
appear like one in the arrangement of the petals. The great
difficulty in starting the culture of these plants is obtaining
good seeds, and unless the intending cultivator knows anyone
who makes a fancy of Balsams, or unless he can obtain first-rate
plants, some time will probably elapse ere a good fixed strain of
flowers is obtained. Seeds should only be saved from the finest
and most perfect flowers, and although the quantity must of
necessity be small, the quality will be good, and this is vhat is of
most importance. Only the best blooms on a plant should be
reserved for seed, and if it is desired to have the seed extra good,
only the blooms selected for seed should be allowed to remain on
the plant.

The cultivation of Balsams is very easy, and provided the
seeds are right, the results are sure to compensate for the
trouble of culture. About the third week in March seeds should
be sown on properly prepared pans of sandy rich soil, and
placed in a gentle bottom heat, say of about 65deg., and as soon
as the first rough leaf appears the plants should be potted off
into Sin. pots, care being taken to keep them close down, i.e., to
let the seed leaves be close to the soil. As soon as the roots kiss
the sides of the pots re-potting should be resorted to, and this
should be repeated until the plants are in Sin. or lOin. pots.
During the whole of the time the plants are under glass they

Dictionary of Plants.

should be kept as near tlie light as possible, and be frequently
turned around, so that they do not draw to one side and become
unsightly. Careful training must be given to the plants, or at
least to such as are required in fine form. Disbudding is also
necessary to such plants as are wanted at their best, removing
all bloom from the main stem and base of the branches until the

Fig. 30.— Camellia flowered Balsam

plants are of suflficient size, and then the buds at the tops will
bloom almost simultaneously, and cause the plants to be really
splendid objects. The buds that will be formed afterwards will
cause a continuance of blossom for a long time ; in fact, for
some months, if the plants are liberally supplied with liquid
manure. Instead of being grown imder glass the whole time,
they may with advantage be treated in the following manner, the

92 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

same rules as to potting, training, &c., being applicable. By this
method an advantage is gained, for although the plants will not
be extra large they will be very hardy, and fit to stand about in
places out of doors where required ; and, being hardy in a com-
parative sense, they will be able to endure many little hardships,
want of water alone excepted. About May the plants should be
transferred to a frame where the heat is not above 50deg.,
and kept in a steady growing state, air being admitted as
required, nor water omitted as necessary. They should be
kept growing on steadily, disbudding and training as above
mentioned. About June the plants should be fully exposed
during the day, and when all danger of frost is over the lights
may be kept o:ffi altogether. These should bloom in whatever
size pots they are in at the end of June, and, if ordinary
attention has been paid them, they will be very fine. In all
cases plenty of drainage must be allowed, as the amount of
water required is immense. Insects must also be looked
after sharply, especially green fly, slugs, and snails, one of
these latter often destroying several specimens in a night.

Propagated from seeds only.

For varieties the following ^dll be found very good : Camellia
flowered (see Fig. 30), Rose flowered, both containing ' various
coloui's ; Solf erino, striped blooms, and Emperor, spotted, both
kinds ha\dng various coloured grounds. The first is, however,
generally most esteemed by lovers of fine flowers.

Bambiisa. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant ; grown for its
foliage and general appearance. Minimimi temperature, 36deg.
The Bamboos are a class of plants that are ornamental in
the extreme, having erect simple stems clothed with willow-like
leaves of various shades of green or, in some cases, green and
creamy white, but from their natiu'e they are not well adapted
to small houses. There is one variety, however, that has a
fine effect anywhere, as it is comparatively dwarf and compact,
with finely variegated foliage, and is adapted to pot culture.
We allude to B. Fortunei variegata, which comes from either
China or Japan, and is really good. All the bamboos are semi-
aquatic, gj-owing natui-ally on the banks of rivers and in marshy

Dictionary of Plants. 93

places." During the season of growth plenty of water must be
applied, and if large growth is desired, weak liquid manure may
be used with advantage. Like all free-growing plants, bamboos
like a rather porous soil to grow in, and we use two-thirds of
fibrous loam, one-third thoroughly rotted leaf soil, and plenty of
coarse silver sand ; we also hold that the plants should not be
potted too firmly, or in some cases the young shoots will have
some diJEculty in pushing through. As a decorative plant, the
one mentioned above will, if well grown, be found of great use,
either for the greenhouse or for the table, as its foliage is both
elegant and graceful, and shows well under gaslight. For the
table, plants about a foot high, in 48-sized pots, sui'rounded with
a plant or two of Isolepis gracilis, and the spaces filled in with
Selaginella denticulata will be found to make very effective
low centres for tables, and will last for two, or three months
with ordinary care. "We have frequently used a bamboo for the
centre, five isolepis (in large 60 pots) around and close to the
centre pot, and as many selaginellas in thumb pots as required,
which generally amounted to from nine to twelve pots, if the
plants were well grown.

Propagation is effected by division when the crowns of the
plants are of a sufficient size, but this process must not be
carried too far, or the whole stock will be lost. Propagation
is best done just before growth commences.

Bamhusa Fortunei variegata is the only dwarf kind fit for pot
work, but where a large tub can be allowed and plenty of house
room is at hand, a plant of B. metahe or B. gracilis is very
effective, but they are from eight to ten feet hign.

Begonia. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant; grown for both
flowers and foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Begonias,
which are of comparatively easy culture, contain both blooming
and fine foliage specimens, and the greater part of them can be
grown well in a greenhouse that is kept about 40deg. There are
also some nearly hardy kinds, but of these we do not intend to
treat here. The fine foliage kinds are very useful for any kind
of wall decorations, the larger foliaged kinds being particularly
useful for the purpose, as they grow so that the leaves quite

94 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

hide the pots when the latter are suspended against a wall,
The colours of the leaves are very rich, from silver to rich
bronze, of a very metallic appearance. A single plant in a
small vase also looks well on a table, and as the plants stand
the gas pretty fairly, they do well for table decorations, or for
sideboards, mantel shelves, &c. Of the ornamental foliaged
kinds, those of the Bex section (see Fig. 31) are very useful,
as they will stand a fair amount of cold if it is not accompanied
by a damp atmosphere. At one time they were classed as stove
plants, but experience shows that they can be used for deco-
rative purposes in almost any greenhouse where the temperature
is kept at from 38deg. to 40deg. through the winter.

The culture is very easy, and the various hybrids of the
different kinds, caused by crossing B. rex with other varieties,
are really beautiful. The aim in winter in a cool house should
be the preservation of the foliage that is already formed rather
than the production of new, and this can only be done in a
place where the atmosphere is not surcharged with moisture.
Where the temperature exceeds 50deg. the plants can be kept
growing, and so will maintain plenty of foliage. Re-pot once
or twice a year, using equal parts of peat and loam and plenty
of sharp sand, or perhaps, where the loam is heavy, one-third
should be used to two-thirds peat ; pot moderately firm, and
while giving sufl&cient water do not overdo the matter, so that
the plants become waterlogged. For this reason plenty of
drainage must be given, or the same undesirable results will
follow With the tuberous - rooted kinds, which are now
coming well to the fore as bedding plants, and have a wide
variety of colours, a somewhat different style of treatment
must be pursued, as the plants rest through the winter.
Our plan is to pot in the end of March, in somewhat
rich sandy loam, affording plenty of drainage, and placing
the plants in the light. Here they soon break, and in due
course produce their flowers. Most of the varieties require
sticks to keep them in form, and as the plants can stand in
the greenhouse throughout the season, they require some
assistance, as thej'" sometimes get a little drawn. Plenty of
water is necessary during the growing season, and aa occa-

Dictionary of Pla?its.

sional -watering with liquid manure will be found of great
advantage. Wlien the plants have bloomed out the supply of
water should be lessened, and as the foliage dies off watering
should be practically discontinued, but the &oil must not become
dust-dry. During the winter the roots should be kept in a
place where the temperature is about 40deg., as in a much
cooler place they would rot. Although Begonias are generally
termed stove plants, they can, as a rule, be treated as green-

FiG. 31.— Begonia Eex.

house plants, the only essential being that the temperature
shall not fall below 40deg. Of course, for winter blooming,
a stove is necessary, as the heat given to the Begonias would
prove very injurious to the other plants in the greenhouse; but
for summer and autumn decoration the plants are excellent.
In fact, the fine-foliaged kinds are useful all through the year,
while the latter kinds are not.
i

95 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Propagation is effected by means of cuttings, division of the
roots in tlie tuberous section, and by seeds. Cuttings root
readily in sand, or sandy peat if on a good bottom beat,
divided roots start well in a warm greenhouse if this mode of
propagation is taken in hand just as the plants start into
growth, and seeds will grow freely if started in a mild bottom
heat or in a warm greenhouse, In fact, it is quite possible to
have Begonias from seeds in all houses that are moderately
warm in April or May, but preferably they should be sown in
February if a proper heat of about 55deg.. can be maintained.
We have found it the better plan to sow thinly on well- drained
pots of sandy peat, covering each pot with a sheet of glass to
prevent undue evaporation, because as the seeds are small if
much watering has to be resorted to a large quantity will be
washed away.

For ornamental foliaged plants select from the following,
which are all good: B. vex, B. Marsliallii, B. Duchesse de
Brabant, B. Queen Victoria, B. Comte de Lemminghe, B. Chas.
Lievens, B. Diadem, B. nehulosa, B. Sambo, and B. Snowflake.
For blooming kinds select from B. Breigeii, white flowers and
huds ;B.spathulata, white; B. nitida, rose; B. Saundersonii, deep
rose ; B.manicata, flesh; B. Frcebeli, crimson-scarlet; and several
of the intermediate hybrids. In fact, where there exists the
means of raising the plants from seeds, a 5s. packet of seed will
produce a good collection. M. Victor Lemoine, of Nancy, has
also raised some double-blossomed varieties, which are excellent,
but rather expensive. They are B. Gloire de Nancy, bright
vermilion ; B. salmonea plena, rosy salmon ; B. Mons. Lemoine,
orange vermilion; B. President Burelle, red, shaded scarlet;
and B. W. E. Gumbleton, rosy salmon with orange centre. He
has also raised some semi- double varieties of much excellence.

Bignonia. — Nearly hardy hard- wooded climbers; grown for
foliage chiefly, but the flowers are interesting. Minimum tem-
peratui*e, 36deg. These are handsome climbers, of great use
in comparatively large houses, and in such give great satisfaction
when well grown; but if neglected, and the foliage rendered
unsightly by the attacks of insects, are of but little beauty.

Dictionary of Plants. 97

The great point in the culture of all climbers is to obtain free,
and at the same time sturdy, growth, giving due attention to
training, pruning, &c., or the plants soon exceed all limits.
Like all free-growing plants, Bignonias do best planted out in
the borders, and if in suitable soil they soon make a fine show,
the fine pinnate leaves setting the large bell- shaped flowers off
to the greatest advantage. B. radicans does well in a large cool
conservatory, and in many places it answers fairly out of doors
in a warm situation, and on a warm sheltered wall they grow
and bloom well, and are therefore generally termed hardy in
catalogues ; but in many instances the term is delusive, as they
do well only in the warmer parts of the British Isles. The best
plan is to plant out in borders of comparatively light loam
and leaf soil, affording plenty of drainage, and taking care the
soil is in a sweet and fresh, condition.

Propagation is effected by layers, and by short jointed
cuttings inserted in pots of sandy loam, taking the cuttings
when the plants are at rest. As, however, there is rarely any
advantage in having more than one or two specimens, we
advise the purchase of the plants at a nursery.

The sorts that are useful for our present purpose are B.
Austratis, B. Capensis, B. cajoreolata, B. grandiflora, B. speciosa,
B. Tweediana, and B. venusta, all of which are good, that is,
good for large houses.

Boronia. — Greenhouse hard - wooded shrub ; grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. In a well-found green-
house these should always be represented to a certain extent,
more or less according to its size. It is, however, a rather
tender plant if taken relatively with some of the other kinds,
such as acacias, &c., but still, like the chorizema, it is of
much individual beauty, as it has fair-sized flowers of taking
colours, and the foliage is elegant, and well clothes the somewhat
erect and slender stems.

It is not necessary, nor even desirable, to have too many
plants of a sort in a small collection, and if such as those
mentioned below are represented by one or two good (though
not large) specimens, it will be far better than a large quantity

98 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

of small ones, as tlie numerous soft-wooded and Lardy plants
tliat can be introduced from time to time will generally
supply plenty of variety and bloom witliout tlie trouble
tbat generally lias to be bestowed on tbe better class of bard-
wooded plants. And another, and perhaps the more important
point, is that the hardier subjects require less attention than
the regular greenhouse subjects. Like many of the other plants
that decorate our glass houses in winter, Boronias should be
placed out of doors from July to September; in pits is the
better plan, as then there are greater facilities for protecting
from heavy rains and thunder storms. They should not be
fully exposed when first put out, but in the course of a week
they may have all the sun and air possible. Potting should be
performed once a year, as soon as the top growth ceases, as
the roots then extend themselves in preparation for their next
year's work. For soil we use peat and maiden loam equal parts,
and about one-sixth sharp silver sand, which we find best for
general use, although many gardeners use a somewhat different
compost. This plant also requires some attention in regard
to water: it must not be allowed to get dry, or disastrous
results will follow, especially in summer, as a little drought
then will soon cause it to lose its foliage.

Propagated by cuttings taken off when the plants are at rest,
and struck in sand or sandy peat, either in a warm greenhouse,
or by the aid of a gentle bottom heat.

5. pinnata, purple, and B. serrulata, scarlet, are two of the
best, while if more varieties are .desired, B. tetranda, red, B.
Brummondii, and B. anemoncBfolia, red, can be added.

Bougainvillea. — Greenhouse hard- wooded climber; grown
for its flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature,
40deg. This is one of the most useful climbers there is, either
for comparatively cool or for warm conservatories. During the
summer it does well in a cool greenhouse. It can be grown in
pots, and in the borders, but it certainly does best in the latter,
as the plant is essentially a very gross rooter, and therefore
requires plenty of space in which to extend. Strict training
and pinching are not very advantageous, as they do not

Dictionary of Plants.

tend to induce the free production of bloom ; indeed, the best
plan is to allow the plants to ramble freely over the roof of a
moderately high house, or along the upper portion of a back
wall, and they will then bloom profusely for several months
in the year, bearing terminal clusters of tube- shaped flowers,
which set the large oval leaves off to great advantage. Always

Fig. 32.— Bottgainvillea Glabra.

provided that the proper attention is paid to feeding, and
the plants are in a properly prepared medium. In preparing
a border for the reception of Bougainvilleas, the first point
to be considered is the drainage, which it is necessary to
thoroughly secure. This is best done by laying in a quantity

100 Greenhouse Manaoement for Ajnateurs.

of brick rubbisb, about, 6in. in thickness, and communicating
witb the drain belonging to the greenhouse or conservatory, by
whicli means all sourness and unfitness of the soil is obviated.
The bed should be excavated to a depth of 2ft. or 3ft., according
to the soil and position. For soil, use rough turf, loam, and
fibrous peat, about two parts of the former to one of the latter,
and about one-fourth to one-sixth part of sharp, gritty sand,
according to the quality of the other soils, heavy loams
requiring more sand than that which is more friable. Some
cultivators use manure in the compost, but this we do not
recommend, as it tends rather to cause the soil to become stiff
and impervious to air, which, to say the least, is very unde-
sirable, as such a condition is directly opposed to the well-
being of any plant. We would rather advise the liberal
application of liquid manure, as this supplies all the necessary
food without destroying the porosity of the soil. As a rule,
these plants do not answer for pot culture in the greenhouse,
as for this kind of treatment they require stove heat, which
cannot be generally given in such a house. When the plants
cease blooming each year, say in November or December, they
should be closely spurred in, the same as with vines, and all
weak leaders should be removed, so that strong wood only
is left. Scale and mealy bugs are the only insects to be feared,
and these can only be kept down by hand picking.

Propagated by means of layers pegged down into the borders
or into pots of sandy soil, and left for at least a year before
they are severed from the parent plajit.

For sorts choose from 3. glabra, B. speciosa, and JB. ajplendens,
which are all good.

Bouvardia. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub ; grown for the
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Bouvardias are, par
excellence, the flowers for cutting for bouquets, and are of
comparatively easy culture. We think that the peculiar beauty
of these plants well repays their cultivation, as no bouquet
in winter is complete without them, their tubular jasmine-
like fragrant flowers being very chaste and useful. The leaves
are somewhat like those of the orange, and a well- grown plant,

Dictionary of Plants. loi

about a foot high, having five or six trusses of bloom, is a
very pleasing subject, the trusses being on the ends of the
branches. The almost continual habit of blooming which
Bouvai-dias possess when well grown renders them valuable
to growers of cut bloom, leaving out their intrinsic value.
We once had the curiosity to ask some of the salesmen in
Covent Garden the value of what they had sold of these blooms
in one morning, and we found that five of them had realized
£50 between them. Of course, this was in the season when
flowers are expensive, but still it shows the decorative value
of the plant. The white varieties are, perhaps, the most
valuable, as their colour is siii-e to match with almost any
other, but, at the same time, the scarlet varieties are good.

The mode of cultivation differs somewhat, according to the
season in which it is desired the plants shall bloom, and,
therefore, it is necessary that they be prepared accordingly.
It must, however, be distinctly remembered that Bouvardias
are not fond of a cold house during winter, an intermediate
house suiting them very much better. In fact, they are
better adapted to those who have warm greenhouses than to
persons who keep out the frost only, these latter not being
able to achieve much success; for although these plants do
well in frames during the summer months, they are very
susceptible to the cold of our winters. For ordinary work
the following practice will probably suit most amatem-s, and
we know it will suit the plants .

In the first place, soil is a consideration, as the plants are
rather fastidious in this respect, and they require rich food
to grow them at all well and keep them in health. We use two
parts thoroughly rotted manure and leaf soil and three parts
good loam, with enough sand to keep the compost open. Strike
the cuttings in a brisk bottom heat in spring, and when
rooted pot off into thumbs ; still keep in a warm, genial,
atmosphere, and as soon as the roots kiss the pot, pot off
into large sixties. As soon as the pots are filled with roots,
shift into forty-eights, and about the middle of June the
plants may be put into airy frames out of doors; give each
plant plenty of room to develop itself, and by a careful atten-

102 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

tion to stopping back during the earlier stages of their growth,
let each plant have from six to eight leads. In the end of
August pot into thirty-two sized pots, and keep close for a
day or two until well established. About the end of September
the plants should be housed in an intermediate house, if they
are wanted for spring blooming, and just kept moving through
the early part of the winter; at least 50deg. should be main-
tained as the temperature of the house where the Bouvardias
are kept. It will be found that the plants kept thus will
Dloom in the end of February and March, as soon as the sun
gets warm. Of course, the nearer they can be kept to the
glass the better it will be for them, as they will remain sturdy
and strong, and be in better condition for a long continuance
of the blooming season. In such a house as is required for
these plants, coleus, alternantheras, and other plants requiring
warmth during winter, will do well. Those which are required
for blooming in December and early the next year must have
a brisk heat night and day through November and onwards,
and they should be kept near the glass. About 65deg. at night
is a very good temperature, but some little allowance must
be made according to the weather. "Water must be given to
meet the requirements of the plants, but it must not be either
over or under done, or bad results will be sure to follow.
Bouvardias cannot be grown in the " handsome glass con-
servatory," such as is fixed to modem villas, unless they are
heated, and built in such a manner as to retain the heat when
it is applied. Neither can they be grown in a house from
which sunlight is wholly or partially excluded, as they want
all the light and sun they can get during winter. Young
plants, liberal cultivation, and plenty of warmth in winter,
is the only secret of success. Always water with water of the
same temperature as the house, syringe well occasionally, and
fumigate once or twice if green fly appears. We have, how-
ever, found that the less the plants are fumigated the better
will they bloom, as the smoke appears to affect the foliage,
and cause a partial arrest in the due performance of its natural
functions.

Propagation is effected by means of cuttings struck on a

Dictionary of Plants. T03

bi-isk bottom, heat in spring, in the same way as fuchsias. Only
young wood should be used for cuttings, and it should be quite
free from aphides, or great trouble will be experienced, if, indeed,
the trouble taken is not quite thrown away.

We have grown all the following, and found them good
for their respective habits, but, perhaps, the easiest to do is
B. jasmincpjiora. This very much resembles the white jasmine,
and by some persons it is mistaken for that flower, although to
those who are well up in flowers the difference is so great as
to make the two flowers easily distinguishable. The list is as
follows : B. candidissima (pure white), B. Hogarth (scarlet) B.
Humboldtii corymhijlora (white), B. jasmincejiora (white, very
free), B. Laura (fine rose), B. Leiantha (bright scarlet), B.
Leiantha compacta (scarlet), B. longijiora fiammea (rosy-blush
tubes, salmon lobes), B. Rosalinda (salmon), B. tripliijlla (orange-
scarlet, very free), B. Vrielandii (white, tinged with blush). The
preceding are all good, and anyone fond of flowers would find a
collection of them invaluable for winter use, or, for that matter,
summer use as well.

Brugmansia. — Greenhouse hard- wooded shiiib or small tree ;
grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. These
plants are well worth attention on account of their beauty, and
also on account of their easy cultivation, and, as they are nearly
hardy, they are very suitable for cool houses — in fact, more so
than many of the more fashionable plants. They look best as
standards from three to five feet in height, as the large ovate
leaves and pendulous blooms, which are somewhat like immense
lilies, can then be seen to the best advantage. The flowers are
from five to seven inches in length, and about four or five inches
in diameter, so that it does not take many to make a good
display. A pretty large pot should be used, according to the
size of the plant, and plenty of drainage must be afforded. For
soil use either peat and loam, about one-third of the former to
two-thirds of the latter, or use good sandy loam alone. A goodly
amount of sharp sand should be allowed to keep the whole open,
as a water-logged soil is not conducive to the welfare of the
plants. Ordinary greenhouse treatment should be given, and

104 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

the plants will not fail to produce their fine blossoms in due
season.

For sorts B. lutea (yellow), B. Knightii (cream), and B. saw.
guinea (red), are the best and most effective.

,ALAMF£LIS. — Almost hardy climber.
Grown for its ornamental foliage and
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg-
This is a useful evergreen climber, and is
well worth growing in suitable positions,
looks well, and is of comparatively easy cul-
ture. The orange-coloured flowers, which are shaped
somewhat as those of the pentstemon, are borne in
terminal racemes, and the light green foliage is
small and somewhat like that of the ordinary garden pea, having
a tendril at the end, which grasps any projection in the wall or
trellis very firmly. It is of free growth and soon covers a large
space, and therefore is very useful in many situations. The
same cultural remarks apply to this as to Cohoea scandens, which
is treated further on, and therefore it is unnecessary to enter
on the subject here.

Propagated by seeds in the same manner as half-hardy
annuals generally.

Calceolaria (herbaceous). — ' Nearly hardy soft-wooded
herbaceous plants; grown for their flowers. Minimum tem-
perature, 35deg. These, like the preceding, are very useful for
both house and conservatory decoration. Unless a stock of
named plants exists it is scarcely worth while to purchase
named sorts, as a packet of seed from a first-class firm will
produce a good percentage of flowers nearly, if not quite, equal
to many of the named varieties. The chief reason for using
plants from seed is, however, the cheapness of the process,
for one or two good named sorts would cost half-a-crown,

Dictionary of Plants.

105

while a hundred or so of good plants can be obtained from a
packet of seed costing that amount. The seed should be sown
about the middle of July on pans of light soil, which should
have been previously soaked with water. Care must be taken
to make the surface of the soil level, and also to sow the seed

Fio. 33. — Herbaceous Calceolaria.

as evenly as possible, a matter of some little difficulty with
fine seeds like Calceolaria, musk, lobelia, &c., as the seeds fall
in bunches from inexperienced fingers. The seeds should be
just covered (no more) with fine soil, a sheet of glass should be
laid over the pan, which should be placed in a shady part of the
greenhouse until the young plants show the first leaf. The glass

io6 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

can then be gradually removed. As soon as they can be handled,
the plants should be pricked out into pots or boxes, being
kept about two inches asunder, and, as soon as they begin to
crowd each other, each alternate one should be transplanted
into other pots or boxes, so that the plants are about four
inches apart. By the end of September to early in November
they will be nice and strong, and fit for wintering, and the best
place for them is in a dry pit, where frost is excluded, or on
the shelf of a cold greenhouse. Give only enough water to
prevent the plants flagging, and keep all dead leaves re-
moved. At the first appearance of green fly, fumigate with
tobacco, as this blight does a vast amount of harm. About the
end of January remove the plants into their blooming" pots,
using those from Tin. to 9in. in diameter, giving plenty of
drainage, and a compost consisting of one-half good fibrous
loam, one-fourth thoroughly decayed manure (cow manure
preferably), and one-fourth leaf soil. To this should be added
sufficient coarse sand and powdered charcoal to keep the whole
open. Take the plants up with good balls of earth and roots, and
pot them moderately firm, A good watering should be given
through a fine-rosed watering pot, and the plants should be put
on an airy shelf in a cold pit or greenhouse, where frost can be
just excluded. For a few weeks constant attention is neces-
sary — watering, aeration, fumigating, &c., all being of para-
mount importance to the future well-being of the plants. Care
must be taken to give plenty of room, and to support the flower
stems as they rise with small neat sticks. About May the
plants will commence blooming, and continue to do so for a
couple of months. As soon as the bloom is over, if the plants
are cut down and placed in a somewhat shady border of light
rich soil, they will afford plenty of stock for the next year ;
but, at the same time, we advise the use of seedling sorts.
Clear liquid manure, not too strong, is very useful for herbaceous
Calceolarias, if employed in moderation ; but it should not be
used too often after the flowers show colour, as it tends to mar
their clearness. The chief points in the culture of herbaceous
Calceolarias are plenty of air and light, attention to watering,
<fcc., and the destruction of fly as soon as it appears.

Dictionary of Plants. 107

Propagated by seeds as described above, or by division of
the plants in tbe case of named sorts. Tliis division should be
done in October wlien taking the plants up from the borders.

Calceolaria (shrubby). — Half hardy semi-hard- wooded
plants ; grown for their flowers. Minimum temperature, 35deg.
Nearly every one is acquainted with this class of Calceolaria,
which is so much used for bedding purposes, but only a com-
paratively small number know what fine decorative plants they
are when well grown. This is much to be regretted, as a well
grown shrubby Calceolaria in a Gin. or Sin. pot is really a
very handsome and showy subject, useful alike in conservatory
or dwelling house. It will be found more convenient to grow
these in a pit or frame, as they are not so much attacked by
fly in such a place, and also make sturdier plants. They
are, however, a little later in blooming, but this is fully com-
pensated by the better habit obtained and smaller trouble
incurred. So long as frost is excluded, and the plants are
kept moist, and receive plenty of air on favourable opportuni-
ties they will succeed very well in a frame, but should exces-
sive moisture be applied or should the plants be frozen, tnen
good pot plants will not be obtained. In the case of the ama-
teur cultivator, it is a question as to which is the best time to
strike cuttings of these plants, as unlike those set aside for
bedding purposes, which are best struck at the end of September,
the plants for pots are required of a pretty good size if large
specimens are wanted, but if it is only desired to have medium
sized plants they can be treated as the bedding plants are until
spring. If large plants are required they should be struck in
August, the cuttings put in a cold frame facing the north,
and, as soon as rooted, potted off into sixty-sized pots; and
when the roots kiss the sides of the pots, re-potted into large
sixties, or Sin. pots, in which they will remain until the end of
February. The points of the plants should then be pinched
out, and as soon as they break they should be potted on into
forty-eight size pots. If there are from four to six breaks to
each plant it will be sufiicient, but should such not be the case, the
plants should be stopped again, when the requisite number of

io8 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

breaks will probably be obtained. As soon as the roots kiss the
pots the plants shoiTld be transferred to their blooming pots
(either 6in. or 8in.), and the shoots should be tied out so as to
develop fully, a point of much importance. Every effort should
be exerted to maintain the foliage green to the base of the
plants, and to attain this end the plants should be fumigated
at the first appearance of green fly. From the end of February
the plants should occupy a light airy pit, or frame facing the
south, and as the warm weather arrives the pots should be
plunged in coal ashes, as it is very essential that the roots
should be kept cool, as in the native habitat of the plants.
Very little manure should be used in the soil, but as the flower
spikes are thrown up, weak liquid manure should be given two
or three times a week. We follow the above plan successfully,
and find that the plants are less liable to be attacked by insects
than in an ordinary greenhouse, and from May till August the
plants are all that can be desired. We place no reliance in old
plants, but still, as is seldom the case, if a house is devoted to
Calceolarias, they pay for attention.

Bedding varieties should not be potted, but should be
inserted about Sin. apart over a bed in a cold frame, and after
breaking (the tops should be taken off early in March or about
the middle of April) should be planted out where they are to
remain. By this means the " disease " will be obviated. Should
frosty weather ensue, the plants should be protected with
inverted flower pots, a piece of slate or crock being placed on
the hole — we have thus often protected more tender plants than
Calceolarias — the chief object being to shield from the drying
winds that at times accompany frosts.

For soil use one-half good fibrous loam, one-eighth thoroughly
rotted manure, and the remainder leaf soil, and enough sharp
sand to keep the whole open.

Propagated from cuttings, as described above, or from seeds,
as described for the herbaceous section.

We mention a few good shrubby Calceolarias ; but, with the
general grower, we would advise the use of seedlings in
preference : C. aurea fioribunda, yellow ; C. Excelsior, orange-
brown, gold cap; C. Firefly, orange-crimson; C. Pluto, dark

Dictionary of Plants. 109

crimson ; 0. Aurora, crimson face, scarlet back ; C. Clio, deep
dark crimson; 0. Sparkler, crimson, gold cap; C. Beauty of
Montreal, bright crimson; C. Crimson Queen, scarlet tinted,
bronzy crimson; C. Prince of Orange, red; C. Mrs. W. Paul,
dark crimson ; and C. Starligbt, bright red.

Calla. — Tuberous greenhouse soft-wooded plant; grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. Calla, or Richardia
^thiopica, or the white arum lily, is one of the most useful
plants of its class. It can be had in bloom at any season, and
can be grown as a window plant anywhere where frost is
excluded, while its fine white spathe and yellow spadix render
it peculiarly interesting. It can also be treated as an aquatic,
eubaquatic, or terrestrial subject, and in all cases it repays
cultivation. Like most of the aroids, it likes a moderately
open compost, well enriched, and during the season of growth it
is very greedy of water — in fact, if the plants have good
drainage and a proper soil, it is scarcely possible to give them too
much. Of course there is a medium in all things, and a careful
cultivator is sure not to exceed this. There are two or three
different modes of culture, two of which we have followed very
successfully. The best plan in our hands is the following : As
soon as the plants have ceased blooming, weak liquid manure is
applied until the end of June, and meanwhile a trench has been
prepared, like that for celery, well-rotted manure being used,
and in this the plants are turned out, and kept well supplied
with water during the growing season. A partially-shaded
situation is best, and if a mulching with cocoa fibre refuse, or
other fibrous material, is given, it tends to keep up a moist soil
with fewer waterings. While planted out, all the flowers are
removed, so that the strength of the plants is concentrated in
the strong crowns. The plants are taken up about the end of
September, and potted carefully in a rich and rather open com-
post, well watered, and placed in a close pit for a week or so,
and thence they are removed to the greenhouse, where by
forcing some and retarding others a continuation of bloom is
maintained for a long time. The other plan, which is not so
good as the preceding, is, however, more suited to small gardens

f 10 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

where a kitchen garden, in any form, does not exist. As soon
as the plants cease blooming in spring they receive a liberal
shift, the roots disturbed as little as possible, and a good

Fig. 34.— Calla ^thiopica.

rich open soil nsed. They are then placed in a moist pit for a
few weeks until they commence growth, when plenty of air and
water is freely given. From the middle of June water is given

Dictionary of Plants. 1 1 1

more sparingly, and the plants are gradually exposed to the air.
The plants are plunged in coal ashes out of doors until the
middle of August, only water enough being given to keep them
from shrivelling. In August they are replaced in the pit, and
well watered, and they soon commence growth, when by forcing
some and retarding others a succession of blooms is maintained.
In all cases plenty of drainage must be given, and close sticky
soil must be avoided.

Propagated by the small offsets formed on the main root.
These are taken off and planted in small pots when the parent
plants are re-potted. In May or June these small plants should
be put out into rich soil, kept well- watered, and potted up in
September for wintering. The second season they should be
planted out again, and if carefully tended the majority of them
will bloom the next year.

The two sorts we find best are C. ^thiopica and C. alha-
maculata.

Camellia. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. The most important
plant that is grown for fine blooms is the Camellia, Con-
sidering the price the cut blooms fetch in market, it is
surprising that more attention is not paid to the cultivation
of this plant by amateurs than is generally the case; but if
anyone expresses astonishment at the fact, they are told that
" the buds drop off','' and the plants cannot be made to do
anyhow. To this we would reply that Camellias are as easy to
grow as any other plant if you only go the right way to work.
Dryness of the atmosphere and want of water at the roots will
generally be found the causes of failure, and the remedy for
these evils will, of course, rest with the cultivator. During the
summer, Camellias can be plunged in the borders, or other places
out of doors, and thus afford a little decorative display, while
at the same time they are making growth and bloom buds. For
ourselves, we prefer to keep the plants always under cover if
they are at all large, as we then contrive to get better results
from them ; in fact, we prefer to have the plants in the borders
of a cool conservatory as permanent plants, as they then make

112 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

the finest growth. Indeed, permanent plants give far better
results than any that are in pots or tubs, but as they require
a large conservatory to give that room which is so necessary to
them when grown in this manner, they are not generally

Fig. 35.— Camellia Japonica Fl. Pl.

suitable to amateurs. The best mode of cultivation for amateurs
is, therefore, in pots or tubs.

Before going into the matter of treatment it may, perhaps,
not be amiss to point out a few of the uses to which the blooms

Dictionary of Plants. 113

of the Camellia may be put, and foremost amongst these bou-
quet making certainly takes a place. "White Camellias (with
other flowers) are much used for bridal bouquets, for the hair,
and for buttonholes, and also for table decorations, and the red
are used for the same purposes, with the exception of bridal
bouquets. A single bloom of Lady Hume's Blush, properly
mounted and wired, is one of the nicest flowers imaginable for a
lady's hair, as is also a bloom of Imbricata ; they are also very
good for buttonhole bouquets, although for our own part we
should prefer a rosebud and a spray or two of bouvardia, backed
with a frond of Adiantum gracilliinum, as we consider a large
flower is out of place in the coat. Some of the semi-double
varieties come in very usefully in a half-expanded state, as they
are pretty and not too large. In the decoration of a dinner
table, both single and double sorts are very valuable, as they
take the place of roses, and besides, they last for many days if
they are properly gummed and mounted. Gumming is neces-
sary with all flowers grown indoors, or they soon fall to pieces.

The cultivation of the Camellia is very simple, attention to a
few easy rules only being necessary for their proper culture.
The great faults in growing Camellias are too great heat, with
very often a dry, arid atmosphere, and too much or too little
water. We have very often seen plants kept dust dry, and as a
natural consequence all the bloom buds fell ofl", as they would
had they been kept over wet at the roots. Too much dry heat
will fetch off the buds with a run, as will also forcing, or rather
trying to force the plants into bloom early. The way to get
Camellias to bloom well is to keep them just moist enough, and
at a temperature of from 45deg. to SOdeg., allowing lOdeg.
to 12deg. rise for sun heat; fresh air of the temperature of
the house may be admitted, so that mildew is kept down, and
little else has to be done. To obtain the blooms early, the
plants should be gradually induced to ripen early, so that
early blooming may follow, according to the natural order of
things, as the plants will not bear to be forced in the general
acceptance of the tenn. Plenty of light, also early varieties
of the plants, are necessary for early work ; and with care,
Camellias can be had for some months, but they must, of courae,

114 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

be ratlier strong iu numbers. It should be remembered that
Camellias are nearly hardy (in some places the single white
blooms well out of doors), and in places where frost is excluded
they do well if not neglected, but, as with all plants, attention
is one of the secrets of success. The time to pot Camellias is
when they cease blooming, using two parts good fibrous loam,
one part peat, and enough sand to keep the whole open. Pot
firmly and not deeper than before, or it is probable that the
plants will be killed by the water settling round the collar.
Liquid or other manure is not required, nor is it desirable to
apply it, as it sooner or later causes the destruction of the
plants.

As a rule, insects do not trouble this class o£ plants, but
scale will sometimes appear, and can easily be removed by
hand. Thrij) also occasionally appears, when a little smoke
will settle them. A mildew like that which attacks Cape
pelargoniums sometimes shows up; but it is not very often
the case, and a soft sponge and some lukewarm soapy water
will soon clear it off, but if the place is ventilated, and kept
fairly clean, there is very little fear of its appearance.

Propagation is effected by grafting on stocks of the common
single v?a*ieties, and is beyond the reach of the ordinary amateur,
such work being done well in quantities, and in houses devuted
to Camellias only.

For a selection of double Camellias we would recommend
^Imbricata red; Alba plena white; *Lady Hume's Blush
white blushed carmine; Angustina superba transparent rose,
occasionally spotted with . white ; *Bealii crimson ; Circe
white; the flowers of this are small, and suited to bouquet
making ; Comte de Gomer soft rose ; Comte de Paris salmon
pink; *Duke of Lancaster clear rose; *Eximia dark crim-
son scarlet; Exqiiisita rose, flowers small and suitable for
bouquets; Fimbriata white, the edge of each petal is nicely
fringed ; Frederici crimson, maroon ; Nigra deep crimson
lake, the darkest flower in the family; Wilderii soft rose.
All the preceding are double, of fine form, those marked with
an asterisk being old favourites with growers. The following
are either single or semi-double, and are very useful for cutting

Dictionary of Plants. 115

wlien lialf expanded: Alha marginata single red, variegated
foliage; DoncTcelaarii semi-double, ricli crimson, marbled and
blotched wbite; Reticulata semi-double, bright rosy lake; Sa-
sanqua foliis variegatis, single red, variegated foliage; Sasanqua
rosea single, bright red ; Tricolor semi-double, white, deeply
flamed with carmine. We have excluded striped and flames
flowers, because, as a rule they have a somewhat confused
appearance, but if anyone wishes for them they are rather
plentiful. All the above are suited to pot cultivation, and,
if one of each is obtained, they make a nice selection.

Campanula. — Hardy herbaceous perennial. Grown for
their blooms. Minimum temperature (when grown in pots),
30deg. Campanulas, or bell flowers, are amongst the most
beautiful plants grown, both for form and colour of the bloom
and the form and fresh green appearance of the foliage. The
dwarf varieties are really very fine for pot culture, and form
masses of light green foliage covered with a greater or less
number of bright white or blue flowers, that render the plants
very acceptable either for rooms or the cool greenhouse.

A comparatively rich sandy loam suits the plants, if plenty of
drainage is afforded. We keep them in cold frames during the
winter, and introduce them as required, unless, indeed, it has
been found necessary to keep them in the greenhouse altogether.
The chimney Campanula is quite out of place in a small house,
and, besides, it is not of any great decorative merit, the dwarf
kinds only being really admissible to the greenhouse. As a
rule. Campanulas should be repotted in autumn; pot firmly,
and keep the crown of the plant just a trifle raised above
the soil, or at times they will fog off through the water
lodging aro.und the collars. The plants should be repotted
each autumn, when they may be divided into as many plants
as there are rooted crowns, if numbers are the chief object ;
but if moderate sized plants are desired, then the old plants
should not be too much divided.

Propagated by means of division, or by seeds sown on sandy
loam in April or May.

Of sorts there is a pretty wide selection, especially as the

1 16 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

greater part of the family can be cultivated in pots. 0. Garga-
nica, pale blue, 6in. ; C. G. alba, wbite, 6in. ; G. Carpatica, blue,
9in. (Fig. 36); C. G. pallida, pale blue; G. G. alba, white; G. tur-

Pi0. 36.— Campanula Carpatica.

Fig. 37. — Campanula Media.

binata, purple blue, 9in. ; C. t. fioribunda, blue; 0. t alba, white;
G. Barrelieri, 6in., blue; G. nitida, blue, 6in. ; G. n. flore pleno,
blue; G. pulla, 6m., blue; and C. rubra, red, 6in., we have found
to answer the purpose well, and at times we have used the Canter-

Dictionary of Plants. 1 17

bury bell— C. media (Fig. 37) and C media fi. pi. — very success-
fully. The plants are grown out doors until just before tbe
flowers open, and are then carefully potted up and watered;
on being kept in the shade for a few days, the blooms open and
become very handsome. The new variety, 0. media calycan-
thema, in which the calyx is of the same colour as the corolla,
is also very effective when treated in this way.

Canna. — Half-hardy herbaceous perennial plant. Grown for
its foliage. Minimum temperature when at rest, 30deg. These
plants are used very much for subtropical gardening, and
they are very fine, as will be seen by Fig. 39, and a few
plants transferred into the house late in the year have a
bright appearance for a month or so. It is, however, for the
flower garden that the Canna is chiefly grown, and for this
reason it is advisable to treat them for this purpose and for
the cold greenhouse alone, and, if it is desired to introduce a
few plants into the greenhouse late in the season, they can be
grown in the borders or kitchen garden. Fig. 38 shows growth
and inflorescence of C. indica.

As Cannas can be raised from seeds as well as division of the
roots, we give the treatment from the first. Seeds should be
sown in light soil in January or February, in a brisk bottom
heat, and, when large enough, should be potted off singly into
small pots, using rich moderately light soil. As soon as the
roots kiss the sides of the pots, re-pot into 4in. pots, and get the
plants hardened off by the end of May, so that they can be put
out early in June. A deep, rich, loamy soil is the best for the
plants while out of doors, and good- drainage is a necessity.
Plants to be put into the greenhouse should be taken up and
potted into large pots about the end of August, well watered,
and kept close for a week, when they may be stood out of
doors until the time arrives for frost, and then they can be
housed. As soon as the frost cuts down the foliage the old
plants should be taken up, placed in boxes, and kept mode-
rately dry until March, when they can be divided and started
in the greenhouse preparatory to bedding-out in June. Besides
the ordinary green foliage, some of the plants have leaves

1 18 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

finely marked, wliicli tlius form an additional attraction, while
the flower (which somewhat resembles that of the gladiolus) is
very handsome.

Propagated by seeds, as described above, and by division of

Fio. 38.— Canna Indica, showing New Growth and Inflorescence.

the roots when growth has just started in spring. The latter
plan is, perhaps, the best, as it takes a long time comparatively
to get good plants from seeds.

The following is a selection of really good sorts, and well
worth cultivation : C. Annei, large glaucous foliage ; C. A. dis-

Dictionary of Plants.

iig

color, purple stems, orange flowers; G. A.fidgida, zebra-marked
foliage; C. A. rosea, tall, orange flowers ; C. Angnste Ferriere,
very large oval green leaves, orange-red flowers, plants eight fe^

•fe-:

Fig. 3D.— Canna, sho-wing Entire Plant.

liigh ; C. aurantiaca zehrina, brown barred foliage ; 0. coccinea
vera, scarlet flowers; 0. Daniel Hooinbrencb, bright yeilow
flowers ; 0. Depute Heron, leaves glaucous, flowers sulphur and

120 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

orange ; C. excelsa zebrina, dark-veined long leaves ; C. expansa
rubra, dark leaves, blood-red flowers ; C. insignis, large foliage
rayed witli cliocolate ; C. limbata major, undulated foliage, red
flowers; (7. 77ie^aZZica, magnificent reddish bronze leaves ; C.Ren-
datleri, long narrow violet leaves, orange flower ; C. Schubertii,
ruby flowers; C. tricolor, very fine foliage, streaked and mottled
with creamy white, and margined with red, and red stems ; and
C. Warszewiczii major, scarlet flowers, . green musae-like foliage,
dark margins. Of course, all these will not be grown, but on no
account should C. tricolor be omitted, as it is so very beautiful.

Carnation (Tree or Perpetual). — Hardy, or nearly hardy,
soft-wooded plant. Grown for its flowers. Minimum tem-
perature, 40deg.

These are, without doubt, some of the most useful plants
grown for cut bloom, and, as the culture is of the easiest, it
is a matter of much sui'prise to us that they are not more
grown by amateurs than is at present the case.

"We strike the plants from June till the end of September in
the ordinary manner, and, when well rooted, pot them off into
Sin. pots ; when established in these, about the end of August,
we give a shift into 4in. pots, in which they are wintered
the first season. As the plants are nearly, if not quite
hardy, all the light and air possible are given, and undue
moisture avoided. The second season the plants are grown on
and not allowed to bloom, two or three shifts being given until
they are in 12in. pots, when they will be from 2ft. to 4ft. high,
and capable of producing a large amount of bloom, as, unlike
the old clove carnation, if well treated, they bear abundance of
flowers, which are like those shown in the illustration (Fig. 40).
Meanwhile the shoots are tramed out into their places, and the
general contour arranged. When the pots are filled with roots,
liquid manure is supplied, and about the middle of September
the plants are taken indoors, and plenty of air admitted for
some days. By maintaining a temperature of 5deg., and ap-
plying sulphate of ammonia as liquid manure, ample bloom
is obtained in the proper season.

For soil we use good fibrous yellow loam, and sand enough to

Dictionary of Plants.

121

keep the wliole sufficiently porous to admit of the free passage
of water. By this system late bloom is obtained.

Where heat can be afforded without detriment to other
subjects in the house, the following is as good a plan of culture
as any. From November to the end of February take cuttings
and strike them in bottom heat; as soon as rooted pot them
off and gradually harden them, so that they will bear removal
to the greenhouse, where
they should remain till April.
Then plant them out on
heavily-manured ground, and
water in, if necessary. In
June go over the plants and
take off the tops, and about
once a fortnight take off' the
tops of any of the side
shoots which may appear
likely to bloom. About the
end of Sex)tember carefully
pot up the plants, and shade
for a week or ten days, being
careful to keep them in a
healthy state of moisture, and
give an unlimited supply of air
until frost sets in. Commence
fire heat in the early part of
November, gradually work-
ing up to and maintaining a
night temperature of 60deg.,

admitting a free circulation of warmed air during the day.
Fumigation must be resorted to if fly should put in an
appearance, and, for mildew, flowers of sulphur should be
thoroughly dusted over the plants, washing it off after three
days, and being very careful to remove all dirt from the
plants.

Propagated by layers or cuttings, as described above.

The following are very good sorts for general purposes :
Garibaldi, rosy scarlet; Souvenir de Malmaison, blush white;.

Fia. 40.— Group of Carnations.

122 Greenhouse Manacrement for Amateurs.

Bride, piire white ; Covent Garden Scarlet, scarlet, very fine ;
Dragon, scarlet ; Boule de Feu, scarlet ; Prince of Orange,
yellow, edged crimson ; La Belle, pure white ; Jean Bart, bright
scarlet ; Oscar, yellow ; Henshaw's Scarlet, good scarlet ; Lee's
Scarlet, a very good serrulated scarlet ; Yaliant, rosy scarlet ;
Rembrandt, large crimson ; Maiden's Blush, blush white.
Rather more trouble will be found with the yellows than with
the other varieties, but the yellow sorts are often the most
esteemed.

Cassia. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for 'its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 30deg. This is one of those
good old-fashioned plants that the rage for novelties has nearly
displaced, and consequently it is not seen so often as it
should be. Its beautiful hawthorn- shaped golden blossoms,
which are borne plentifully in teiTuinal clusters from June
till the end of the year, are always in demand for cutting,
and make a back wall or pillar a mass of golden wealth. It
is also a fine subject for outdoor decoration, as it blooms till
frost cuts it down. Young stock struck in sj^ring and grown
on make very acceptable plants for autumn decoration, and,
in fact, no house should be without them. Indeed, Cassia
corymhosa (yellow) is one of those old neglected plants that
well repay cultivation, but from prejudice, or some other
reason, seem almost dying out. From the very simple nature
of its culture it is essentially a plant for the amateur, and
should never be omitted from a collection of hard-wooded
plants. For indoor use we pot in maiden loam and sand
and a little peat, and in this the Cassia does well. For out-
doors, we plant out in June, and as soon as the frost touches
the foliage we pot them up (after cutting back nearly to the old
wood), and winter in the back part of the greenhouse, or where
there is a vinery, in that, just keeping out frost. For beauty
of bloom, easiness of culture, and general usefulness, in our
opinion, there is no plant to beat this.

Propagated by cuttings inserted in pots of sandy soil, either
in a greenhouse or by the aid of a little bottom neat. As a
rule, spring is the best time to strike cuttings.

Dictionary of Plants. 123

Celosia. — Tender aminal. Grown for its inflorescence.
Minimum temperature, 50deg. Unlike cockscombs, Celosias
have large plumes of bloom, and form pyramidal masses of
colour, not greatly unlike tlie old Love-lies-bleeding and Prince's
feathers, "which they resemble, in both leaf and inflorescence,
to a great extent. The Celosias are, however, greenhouse sub-
jects, while the amaranthuses are practically hardy. The
plants attain a height of from 2ft. to 5ft., and in some
strains they have a graceful pendant habit, which renders
tbem particularly beautiful when they are well grown. Like
cockscombs, they do not really answer unless a moist warmth
is kept up, and, like them, they must be kept near the glass,
and have plenty of room for their free development. With all
the Celosias frequent syringings are also necessary to keep
down thrips and red spider ; but, if grown in a moist frame, less
trouble will be experienced on this head. The seed should be
sown in the same manner as cockscombs, and the treatment
should be the same until the first potting. After this the plants
should have frequent shifts until the blooming pots are reached,
those for the largest plants being 12in. ; but they can be
bloomed from Gin. pots upwards. A moist genial atmosphere
must be maintained, and the plants must not suffer from
drought, or the foliage will be lost. As soon as they
become too lai-ge for the frames, they should be transferred
to a span-roof greenhouse, allowing plenty of room for the
circulation of air and free admission of light, and plunging
the pots in cocoa-fibre to maintain as equable a temperature of
the soil as possible. As soon as the blooming pots are filled
with roots, copious supplies of liquid manure should be given,
and, where necessary, stakes should be placed to the plants to
keep them upright under the weight of plumes. Such little
matters of routine as we have frequently mentioned before will
also require to be seen to and the plants will be well worth the
trouble taken with them.

Propagated from seeds as described above.

The sorts of Celosia pijramidalis that are to be recommended
are C. p. aurea, yellow; C. p. coccinea, scarlet; and C. p*
puvpurea, purple.

124 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Centaurea. — Half-Lardy perennial. Grown for its foliage.
Minimum temperature, 40deg. These are white-foliaged plants
of much, use for bedding purposes, and also for the decoration of
the greenhouse during the cooler months of the year ; and as they
have a somewhat snowy appearance, they blend well with richer
forms of coloured foliage, but the thistle-like blooms, which are
generally yellow, are of no value from a decorative point of view.
The culture is simple.

Sow seeds in August on sandy soil, and prick off into small
pots, and as soon as the roots fill them, re-pot into large
sixties. Winter the plants in these, and in March re-pot into
4in. pots, in which the plants can stand until June, when, if
large plants are required, they can be re-potted into 6in. pots.
During the summer, the plants can be stood out in the frames,
or where grown as bedding plants they can be put out, and
the contrast afforded will be very good. A moderately rich
and sandy soil is necessary, and freedom from excessive
moisture is essential. The plants can also be raised from
cuttings taken off with a heel attached, and struck during
summer in a frame facing the north, or in a slight bottom heat
in spring.

Propagated by seeds or cuttings, as described above.

For sorts choose from C. argentea ijliimosa; C. gymnocarpa;
C. ragusina, and C. r. compacta.

Cerasus. — Hardy hard-wooded small tree or shrub. Grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature (for pot work), SOdeg.
The cherries are very useful for house decoration if treated the
same as almonds. The double varieties are the best for the
purpose, having flowers like large double daisies, either white
or pinkish white, according to the nature of the soil. The single
varieties are of little use indoors, but are fine outside; and
as the bloom is not so persistent as in the double kinds, the
plants are not so well suited for indoor work. The application
of manure of a highly nitrogenous character frequently causes
the blooms to be suffused with pink to a greater or less degree ;
but it is better to select plants having this characteristic while
they are in bloom, so as to insure — to a certain degree — its

Dictionary of Plants, 125

repetition. These are amongst the prettiest hardy deciduous
hard-wooded subjects there are.

Propagation is effected by grafting on stocks of C Mahaleb,
or in modern practice generally by budding ; grafting just as
the growth starts, and budding when the bark will " run " well
and the plants are in active growth.

C. Japonica multiplex, double dwarf pink ; C. J. alba fi. pi.
double dwarf white ; C. serrulata, double Chinese ; C. sylvestris
fl. pi., double French ; and G. vulgaris fl. pi., common
double, are about the most useful of all the plants amongst
the cherries, and, as we said before, they well repay any
trouble bestowed on getting them forward in the house.

Chimouauthus. — Hardy hard- wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 30deg. This is a very useful
class of plant, of very easy culture, best suited for planting out
in the borders of a conservatory. In fact, we have never seen it
done well in pots, either in a private garden or nursery, and,
therefore, cannot recommend it for pot work. The plants should
be grown in a compost of loam and sand, enriched with leaf soil,
a sufficient root space should be afforded, and they should
be trained against a wall, so arranged that a sufficient space
for the full development of the large laurel- shaped foliage is
afforded. The same general treatment as regards watering,
ventilation, &c., should be given as to other hardy hard- wooded
subjects, and the plants will grow and bloom freely. The flowers
are highly fragrant, and although not very ornamental, are yet
very useful for various purposes.

Propagated by cuttings, taken oif while the plant is at rest,
and struck in sandy soil in cold frames. It is, however, the
better plan to purchase plants when needed, as but little good is
to be gained by propagating plants of this class.

The sorts we would recommend are 0. fra grans, brown, and
C. luteus, yellow; C. grandijiorus, yellow, is also very good.

Chorizema. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for
flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature, 40deg.
This is a family of plants that is most decidedly ornamental,

126 Greenhouse Management for Ajnateurs.

and although not so easy of culture as some of the other hard-
wooded plants, will repay any trouble bestowed on it. The
pea-shaped flowers are very handy for bouquets, and the small
holly-like foliage is also very elegant, being of a very fresh
green. Trained on a balloon frame, about fifteen inches
high, the plants when well bloomed form quite " a picture,"
and for decorating a window are first-rate. Allowed to grow
naturally, small specimens are very effective, and amongst
other flowering plants give a rich, bright appearance that
few other subjects possess, and many amateurs we have known
say they cannot wish for a better retui-n for their care and
attention than these plants give. The flowers, which are
somewhat pea-shaped, are borne well above the foliage, and
are not so awkward to arrange in a bouquet as some others,
and for this reason alone would be worth cultivation, were the
bright colours left out of consideration. The plants can be kept
outdoors from the beginning of July till well into September,
and require no trouble with the exception of watering. Potting
should be performed as soon as the plants cease blooming.

The soil we use is two parts peat to one part maiden loam,
and plenty of sharp sand. "We are aware that some gardeners
use a somewhat different compost, but we bave always had good
success witb tbe above, and can recommend it.

Propagated by means of cuttings struck in a gentle bottom
heat, or what is more useful to amateurs, by seeds sown in April,
and as soon as large enough, potted off into small sixty-sized
pots, where they. will, after once stopping, remain till the follow-
ing spring. Ke-pot in March or April, and afterwards treat as
for the older stock.

For sorts the following will suit the most fastidious, and we
know that where we have had them they have given every satis-
faction : C corcZa^rt, red ; C. cordata splenclens, red; C.flava; G.
ilicifolia, yeLow; C. Laivrenciana, orange; C. macrophylla, red;
C ovata, scarlet ; 0. varia, orange, red ; C. varia nana, dwarf
yellow, red ; C. varia Chandlerii, orange, red ; amd C. varia
rotundifolia, red.

Chrysanthennim. — Hardy herbaceous perennial soft-wooded

Dictionary of Plants.

127

plant. Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature (for pot
work), 36deg. These, though hardy, if grown for indoor
decoration require such special treatment as to render them
worthy of a place amongst greenhouse plants. "Whether the
pompones, ordinary sorts, or Japanese varieties are grown, the
show of colour and varied form will be very great, and supposing

Fio. 41,— New Japanese Chrysanthemum, "Chinaman."

that a fair collection exists, a very good display of colour will
result. Indeed, the varied colours render the greenhouse very
gay for some of the dullest months in the year. In all cases it
is, however, . veiy necessary that proper attention and liberal
culture be given, or the plants will not be so brilliant either in
foliage or bloom ; and as good foliage is as much an essential as
fine blooms, plants that are deficient in that respect are certainly

128 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

not good specimens of culture. With all flowering plants bai'o
stems, as a rule, indicate some error in their cultivation, and to
exhibit such plants on the stage of a greenhouse generally shows
up their defects. The methods of cultivation are legion, and
nearly everyone who grows for market or home use has some

Fig. 42.— Japanese Chrysanthemum, " Red Dragon."

particular part or parts of his treatment different to his neigh-
bour's. But whatever plan is pursued, the object is the same,
i.e., the production of well-fumished, free-flowering plants, of
not too great a size. For the use of an amateur, large plants
are frequently in the way, as are also those which attain a great
height, unless, indeed, the bloom is required for cutting for
exhibitions, when the best plan is to allow the plants to attain

Dictionary of Plants.

129

their maximum growth, as finer flowers are then produced, but
as only one or two blooms are allowed to each, plants grown for
cut blooms are certainly not very ornamental.

In the end of March or the two first weeks in April, strong

Pig. 43.— Recurved Chrysanthemum, "Dr. Sharpe.*

cuttings, Sin. or 4in. long, should be inserted, three in a Sin. pot,
and the pots should be plunged into a gentle hotbed. When
well rooted, the plants should be hardened off somewhat and
potted singly into Sin. pots, keeping them close for a few days and
then giving air more or less freely, according to the weather. As

130 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

soon as tTie young plants have grown about 2in., tlie points
should be pinched out, so that they may be induced to
break freely, a point of much moment. As soon as the pots are
fall of roots (not pot bound) a shift into 4in. or 6in. pots should
be given, particular attention being paid to watering and stop-
ping back where necessary. About the end of May the plants
can be removed to their blooming pots, Sin. or lOin., and
at once plunged in a bed of coal ashes. The soil used

Fni. 44.— Ankmone-flowered Pompone.

for potting should be composed of three parts good loam, one
part rotten manure, and one part good rotten leaf soil, with,
perhaps, a small quantity of hoof raspings from a farrier's shop.
To these a sufficient quantity of sharp sand should be added to
render the whole sufficiently porous to admit of the free passage
of water. Drainage should be particularly cared for, on account
of the large quantity of water the plants require during their
season of growth. They should not be stopped after the middle

Dictionary of Plants.

131

of June, but tlie branches should be kept -well tied out, both
to admit a free circulation of air and to maintain a comely,
well-balanced shape. As the pots become filled with roots
liquid manure should be supplied, and continued until the
blooms begin to open, when it should be discontinued. Another
plan is to turn the plants out into good soil in April and care-
fully grow them on outdoors, potting them up in the end of

Fig. 45.— New Pompone, "Model of Perfection."

September. Small plants are easily obtained by layering
branches, and, when rooted, gradually severing the branch, and
then potting the young plants without injuring the roots more
than can be avoided. Chrysanthemums bloom well in a tem-
perature of 38deg. to 45deg., provided plenty of air is admitted
to keep down mildew. Fly must be got rid of by fumigation
and mildew by dusting the parts affected with flowers of
sulphur. The chrysanthemum fly is sometimes troublesome.

K 2

132 Greenhouse Mana^^ement for Afnateurs.

The egg is laid under the skin of the leaf, and if the grubs are
not removed tlie plant is very much weakened. Their presence
is easily detected by the brown channels they form in the leaves.

Propagation is effected by cuttings as described above.

The following are some good plants for pot culture, thougb
most of tliem are old : — Anemone- flowered -. Antonius, yellow ;
Empress, lilac ; Prince of Anemones, lilac blush ; Lady Mar-
garet, white; King of Anemones, crimson purple; Firefly, bright
scarlet. Pompones : Aigle d'Or, yellow ; Helene, rosy violet ;
Madge "Wildfire, bright red, gold tips ; Mrs. Dix, blush ; Rose
Trevenna, rosy blush ; The Little Gem, delicate peach ; Model of
Perfection (Fig. 45), beautifully quilled, and of a delicate mauve
colour, with petals edged with a lighter tint. In Fig. 44 we
illustrate an Anemone-flowered Pompone. Japanese : China-
man (Fig. 41) is one of tbe newest and most remarkable of this
picturesque tribe, with curiously twisted florets, the effect of
wbich is increased by the telling contrast of upper and lower
sides. The other type we give of this class is our old favourite,
Red Dragon (Fig. 42); this is a large, loose flower, of a rich red
cbestnut, tipped and centred with gold. Prince Satsuma, golden
yellow; Tasselled Yellow, good yellow. Chinese or ordinary : C.
aurea inultiflora, pure yellow; Beverley, ivory white; General
Slade, Indian red, orange tips ; Gloria Mundi, golden yellow ;
Golden Beverley, rich gold ; Golden Queen, canary yellow ;
Josiah. Wedgwood, rosy carmine; Lady Slade, lilac, pink centre;
Mount Etna, rich red ; Mibs Mary Morgan, delicate pink ; Mrs.
G. Rundle, white ; Prince Alfred, rosy crimson ; Queen of
England, ivory white ; Queen of Whites, large white ; Rifleman,
dark ruby; Bosa oiintabilis, delicate peach; Sam Slick, ruby,
bronze tips; Yellow Perfection, golden yellow. The reflexed
flowered class form a very distinct group, one of th.e best of
which is Dr. Sharpe (Fig. 43), a conspicuous, perfectly-shaped
flower, of a rich, amaranth colour, and of recent introduction.
The above sorts, if obtained true, will be found to answer all
requirements, and all the plants are good both in foliage and
flower.

Cineraria. — Half-hardy perennial soft-wooded plant. Grown

Dictionary of Plants,

133

for its flowers (see Fig. 46). Minimnm temperature, 38deg. These
are amongst the most ornamental, and, at the same time, most
easily grown plants there are, and as a half-crown packet of

Fig. 46.— Flowering Head of Cinerakia.

good seed will produce a vast assortment of colours, they
should be grown by everyone possessing a house where
frost is excluded during winter. The colours range from
pure white to purple and crimson in selfs, and all the

134 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

various colours, banded witli others, as wliite banded with
crimson, wliite banded with blue, blue banded with white, &c.,
all of which contrasts are very effective and look excellently
well as individual blooms. Some of the named varieties are
fine, but, at the same time, many of the " strains " of seedlings
of the last few years are (except in the view of professional
florists) as near perfection as possible. In all cases it is advis-
able to grow Cinerarias in loits or frames, so that they do not
exceed 18in. in height, with just enough heat to keep out frost ;
but, as the generality of amateurs cannot afford heated pits,
the plants should be grown in frames until frost sets in, and
then removed to a light airy position in the greenhouse to pro-
duce their daisy-like blooms. Seed should be sown under glass
in July and August, and, when large enough, the young
plants should be potted off into small pots, and kept close for a
few days. As soon as the roots kiss the sides of the pots,
give a shift into others an inch larger, and continue to do ro
until Sin. pots are reached, when liquid manure should be
applied, and as the plants get pot bound they will commence
to bloom. In the case of edged varieties, as soon as they
commence to show colour the liquid manure should be discon-
tinued and clear water substituted, or the flowers will become
muddy, and not look well. With old plants the culture is much
the same ; the plants are divided early in August, repotted into
small pots, and grown on as before directed.

For soil use the following compost : Two parts of fiKrous loam,
one part leaf soil, and one part cow manure, with enough sand to
keep the whole open, for if once the plants get waterlogged they
are spoiled. It is, therefore, necessary to provide plenty of
drainage to each pot, and to stand the plants where the watei
will run away easily, instead of placing them in saucers where,
as is too often the case, the stagnant water is not removed.
Pegging out the foliage and tying out the blooms wiU, of
course, be necessary to make the plant appear at its best.
After blooming, such plants as it may be desirable to keep
should be cut down to within 6in. of the pots, so that they
shall afford plenty of suckers to provide the plants of the
aext season. Green fly must be kept down by frequent fumiga-

Dictionary of Plants. 135

tion, and should mildew appear, flowers of sulpliur should be
dusted over the plants.

Propagated from seeds or divisions, as described above.

We grive a selection of some really good named varieties : — SeZ/s :
Adam Bede, bright rose ; Blue Beard, deep blue ; Brilliant, bright
crimson; Captain Schriber, light blue; Duke of Cambridge,
crimson; Eclipse, rosy carmine; Eclat, shaded pui-ple ; Reynolds
Hole, scarlet crimson : Snowflake, pure white ; Uncle Toby,
deep purple. Edged and banded : Agrippa, white, rosy crimson
edge; Amazon, light ground, crimson edge; Auricula, white,
heavily tipped blue; Bridesmaid, white, purple margin; Chan-
cellor, deep purplish crimson, white circle and disc : Chas.
Dickens, white, rosy crimson edge; Evelyn, light ground, tipped
crimson ; Flora, pure white, crimson edge ; Ino, white ground,
heavily tipped crimson ; Juno, crimson, white ring ; Meteor,
crimson, white ring; Miranda, white, blue edge; Orb of Day,
rich glossy crimson, white ring; Zoe, rich crimson, light ring.
As it is impossible to suit anyone's taste by a mere descrip-
tion, we would advise those who require a collection of really
nice sorts, all distinct, to visit a good collection in the blooming
season, and select the varieties that they prefer, as tastes vary
greatly.

Citrus. — Hard-wooded greenhouse shnib or small tree.
Grown for its flowers and general appearance. Minimum tem-
perature, 40deg. (45deg. for fruiting plants). To this family
belong the orange, lemon, citron, and two or three other
fruits, and it is generally the wish of the proprietor of a green-
house to grow and fruit one or other of these. Now, however
unsuccessful anyone may have been, there is not the least
reason why oranges should not be bloomed (if not fruited) in
every light conservatory or greenhouse in the land, if only our
directions are followed, and, in any case, it will be found that
the bloom, which is five cleft, sweetly scented, and borne either
separately or in small axillary clusters on the terminal branches,
alone pays for any trouble bestowed on the plants. The first
consideration is, what sort of orange to grow. In this, please
yourself, as all the Citrus family are pretty, but for our own

136 Greenhouse Manaaement for Amateurs.

part, C aurantium (tlie sweet orange, Fig. 48) would be the
clioice, as it is no more trouble to grow tlian tlie compara-
tively useless bitter orange, and, should fruit be perfected, it is
usable, whereas that of the bitter orange is of too acrid a flavour
to be at all pleasant. The bloom is, moreover, as useful as is
that of all the oranges (see Fig. 47). To grow any of the Citrus
family well, attention must be paid particularly to the soil.

F16. 47. — Flowering Branch of Orange {C. aurantium).

This should be sound, hea^'y loam, to which a liberal portion
of sand has been added. No manure should be used, as it tends
to promote the growth of fungi. During the growing season
some liquid manure should be regularly supplied, but as soon as
growth begins to slacken, this should be gradually stopped and
clear water substituted. A moist atmosphere should also be
kept up while growth is vigorously going on, and for this reason

Dictionary of Plants.

137

a Yinery is a very good place for the plants at this season; where
a dry atmosphere is maintained the plants are sure to have a
starved and stunted appearance, very foreign to what it should
be, and, as a rule, the bloom will be poor and scarce. In potting,
the soil should be moderately hard in the pot, or the wood will
be too soft and sappy and not ripen properly. It should not,
however, be too much compressed, or the plants will not thrive.
In a greenhouse the heat must not go below 40deg. in winter,

Fig. 48.— Fkuiting Branch of Okange.

and in summer, of course, it will depend on circumstances,
but, in all cases, plenty of air is necessary unless frost
is present. We have fruited the Tangerine orange in an
ordinary greenhouse, heated by a flue, and always found (with
some dozens of plants) the preceding treatment answer very
well, as we had plenty of fruit and cut bloom. Of course,
the plants have to be kept clear of insects and dirt, or they
soon begin to suffer, as will any evergreen.

I'SS Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Properly worked plants must be obtained if flowers are
desired, altliough those raised from seed are interesting from

Fig. 49.— Fruiting Branch of Lejion (C. ac\d.a).

the remembrances they bear. It is, however, many years before
they bear fruit.

Dictionary of Plants. 139

Propagated by grafting in the same way as tlie camellia, or
from seeds, but seedlings take a very long time to get into a
blooming state. It is by far tbe better plan to purchase the
jDlants in a fruiting state at first, as then there is a good chance
of achieving success.

The sorts we have grown comprise C. acida, lemon (Fig. 49); G.
auranthim, sweet orange; C. aurantium bigardia, bitter orange;
C. aurantium sanguinea, blood orange ; 0. limonum, lime;
C. Medica, citron ; and C. myrtifolia, myrtle-leaved orange.

Clematis. — Hardy hard-wooded climber. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. In this family we
have a class of plants which is useful and good in all green-
houses or conservatories alike. The flowers of some of the
varieties are really magnificent, both as to size and colour ;
and when trained on a wall or on a balloon trellis the effect
they produce is more easily imagined than described. The
flowers of most of the Clematis are borne in axillary clusters,
or singly, at the end of the current year's wood, and, in some
kinds, are somewhat like the Japanese anemones in form, while
in others they are more deeply cleft, and like single dahlias,
save in colour and the number of petals, which are fewer.
In size the flowers vary from an inch to four inches in
diameter, but the medium flowering sorts of the Jackmanii
type are the most floriferous. Of course, large effects cannot
be expected from small specimens, and to produce large ones
it is necessary to give liberal culture. The majority of
Clematis are quite hardy, and should, therefore, receive plenty
of air, and but little excitement from too great a heat, or
the shoots exhaust the roots to a great extent, and, after
a time, the plants become less floriferous and useful. For
general purposes, therefore, it is preferable to have a well-
lighted house for the cultivation of the Clematis, and care
should also be taken to avoid a too close atmosphere, a well-
ventilated house being a sine qua non. As the blooms are
produced on the ends of the current year's shoots the mode
of cultivation should be such as will allow the plants to be
well pruned back each winter, and also the situation chosen

140 Greenhouse Management for Ajnateurs.

should be suitable for this purpose, or a vast amount of bare
steins will soon be obtained. The secret of success lies in
liberal cultui'e and close pruning ; when we say close pruning,
we mean spun-ing the shoots in to two or three eyes. For
soil, use three parts good sandy loam and one-fourth well-
rotted manure, thoroughly incorporated. To these may be
added about an eighth pai*t of broken sandstone, or broken
bricks passed through a ^in. meshed sieve, so that the requisite
porosity may be maintained, as Clematis dislike a wet, heavy
soil, and, in fact, soon die out in it. If the plants are put
into the borders, they should have 6in. of drainage, and 18in.
to 24in, of the above compost in which to grow. During the
period of growth liberal supplies of liquid manure should be
given, and by cutting back the shoots when they cease bloom-
ing two or three successive lots of bloom can be easily obtained.
A house that has a temperature of 40deg. to 50deg. is the
best, and whether the plants are trained on the roof or on a
back wall, the above rules should be observed.

Propagated by root grafting, which needs especial skill, and
special structures.

The following are good for house cultivation : C. aristata,
C. indivisa lohata, C. Jachmanii, C. magnijica, Thomas Moore,
C. Standishi, Lady Bovill, Mr. F. 0. Baker, Albert
Victor, Lucy Lemoine, John Gould Yeitch, C. rubella,
Star of India, and Lady Caroline Nevill. All but the first
two are hardy and have very fine flowers, and all or any of
them are well worthy of cultivation.

Clianthus. — Greenhouse hard-wooded climber. Grown for
its flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature,
40deg. This is a greenhouse climber of much beauty, the
papilionaceous, flowers being both large and of a brilliant
colour, in appearance like some of the Everlasting peas. The
whole plant — ^the Glory Pea of New Zealand — is very orna-
mental when well in bloom, the large flowers and handsome
foliage contrasting well with other plants; but from its great
liability to the attacks of red spider, it has got into disrepute
amongst amateurs and gardeners who do not take a real

Dictionary of Plants. 141

interest in tlieir work. Now, it is not difficult to keep down
spider if it is not allowed to get a firm footing on tlie
plants, but let it once get fairly at liome on the foliage, it
is almost an impossibility to be rid of it. The only way to
keep down red spider is to syringe daily throughout the grow-
ing season with clean water. Scale sometimes attacks them,
but careful hand picking and sponging with Fowler's Insecticide
will keep this unwelcome visitant at bay. The best plan for
an amateur to pursue is to obtain j^lants from a nursery in
the fall of the year, and keep them in a greenhouse until
April, when they should be examined, and if the roots are
moving they should have a 2in. shift, good fibrous sandy loam
and sand being used for compost, or, if this is not attainable,
peat and sand. The compost should not be sifted, but should
be broken up by hand and compressed firmly in the pots.
After potting, the plants should be placed in a pit with other
young hard-wooded subjects, kept close for a few weeks,
and turned and syringed daily. Training must be attended
to regularly if it is desirable to keep the base of the plants
well furnished, as the wood when old is very liable to break
off. If it is preferred to keep the plants in pots, they can
be either trained out on sticks or on a trellis, either flat or
balloon-shaped, or they may be planted out as pillar or wall
plants, but from their liability to the attacks of spider the
amateur will probably do them best in pots. Remove the
points of the leading shoots and attend to watering at the
roots, and the treatment is complete for the season. "Winter
as before, and give a Sin. shift in April, attending to watering
and syringing, and as they will probably bloom during
July or August, the leading shoots should not be stopped.
After blooming the shoots should be cut back and the plants
be treated as before. The next season give another Sin. shift
and treat as previously, and a good head of bloom will result. If
only moderate sized plants are required, instead of re-potting,
remove the top Sin. of soil from the pots and fill ivith the
compost above recommended, to which a fifth part of rotten
manure has been added; apply liquid manure once or twice
a week, and with this treatment the plants will last for years^

142 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Propagated from seeds sown in spring in sandy soil on n
gentle bottom heat, and re-potted and grown on carefullj.

Fig. 50.— Cobcea Scakdens.

They, however, are very awkward subjects to deal with in
a mixed honse for the first year, owing to the attacks of
.red spider, which cause much loss.

Dictionary of Plants. 143

For sorts, G. puniceus (the Glory Pea of New Zealand) and
C. magnificus and C. Dampieri are all that can be desired.

Clivia. — See " Imantophyllum."

Coboea. — Greenhouse hard-wooded climlDer. Grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is a family of
free-growing climbers that is suitable for either greenhouse or
conservatory, and also for summer use out of doors. It is very
free-growing, and, during the season, its free growth renders it
peculiarly useful for covering the roofs of ferneries or other
places where shade is a desideratum, as it only requires a
circulation of air to maintain it in good health, and, as it is not
particularly liable to the attacks of insects, it is, to say the
least, a desirable plant for the purposes mentioned. The
variegated form is well suited for giving brightness to bare
walls, or for arches, porches, &c., while, like all the family, the
general gracefulness of outline renders it an object of admira-
tion. The Coboeas are readily raised from seeds in spring, a
little bottom heat alone being necessary if the seed is new ; but
old seeds are, as a rule, very unreliable. A free, moderately rich
soil is necessary, and the plants do best if placed out in the border,
but, at the same time, they do very well in large pots. In autumn
the long shoots can be pruned back, and fresh growth will be
made in spring. In fact, these are about the handiest plants
there are for covering large spaces. The flowers, which are
large, bell-shaped, and purple in colour, are noticeable for their
size, but are not very decorative, and are useless for cutting.

Propagated from seeds as described above.

The sorts are, C scandens (Fig. 50), C. s. pendulceflora, and
C s. variegata, which has handsome variegated foliage.

Cockscomb. — Tender annual, grown for its inflorescence.
Minimum temperatm-e, 60deg. Before giving cultural direc-
tions for this plant {Celosia cristata), we may as well remark
that it is of no use trying to cultivate it without heat, and many
amateurs are without this requirement. Cockscombs, to be of
real use, must be dwarf in stature, and the heads must be as

144 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

large as can be obtained, so as to present as great a mass of
colour as possible to tlie beliolder. To the general reader -we
say, buy the plants in full bloom, but, where it is really desired
to grow them, great pains must be taken to obtain the proper

conditions for their

growth.

A good Cockscomb should be not

Fig. 51.— Cockscomb.

more than 9in. high, and it should be quite that width over
the top of the bloom, if not more. The bloom, which is well
shown in Fig. 51, should also be as wide or thick as
possible, and, whatever the colour, it should be at the same
time clear and dense. The foliage must be kept quite green,
and a sufficiency of leaves should occur on the stems, or the

Dictionary of Plants. 145

plants will have a very poor and bare appearance, far from
pleasing to look at. The first point in growing these plants
is to have the seeds sown at the proper time, and in this
respect different growers vary in opinion. It is, however,
necessary to sow the seeds some time in March or April,
using pans of well-drained, rich, sandy soil. Seed of a good
strain should be obtained, and, if it is possible to obtain it
from a gardener who has it about three years old, so much the
better, as the plants raised therefrom are not so much inclined
to run to leaf as those from new seeds. Where dependence
can be placed in the seed, even if it is four or five years old,
there is no harm done, but, in such cases, it is better to sow
rather early, so that, if one sowing fails, there may be time to
get in another without endangering the crop. After sowing,
the pans should be placed in a hot-bed, with a night tempera-
ture of about 65deg., rising to about 70deg. with sun heat. A
moist, but not stagnant, atmosphere should be maintained, and,
as soon as the seeds germinate, they should have plenty of light
and just a trifle of air, care being taken that the soil in the pans
does not become dry, or the plants will be ruined. The pans
must be kept near the glass, and, as soon as the plants are large
enough to handle, they should be potted off into small 60-pots,
the seed leaves being carefully kept close to the soil, as the
object desired is dwarfness. The pots must be placed in a
position close to the glass, in a frame where the same con-
ditions are maintained as above mentioned, allowing a rise
of 5deg. or 6deg. in the day-time. The plants should be
grown on as quickly as possible, the soil being kept rather
dry, but, of course, not dust-dry, and, as soon as the heads
show so that the best-formed ones can be selected, these latter
should be re-potted into 4in. or Sin. pots, with a good soaking
of water ere re-potting, and a few hours allowed for the pots
to drain. After potting, the plants should have a position
close to the glass. The pots should subsequently be plunged
to the rims in a bed of ashes or cocoa fibre on a hotbed
just sufficient water, but not too much, must be given, and
.more air must be admitted. It is necessary, however, that
the surface temperature do not fall below 65deg., or a check

146 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

■will be given that will probably retard tlie growth of the heads.
If the heads are required large, another shift must be given
before they are too large or much developed, and from oin.
to Sin. pots should be used for this final potting. The same
rules as to keeping close to the glass, &c., must be observed,
and, when the pots become filled with roots, liquid manure
should be given about twice a week.

We have found the following to be a good compost for these
plants, if due care is taken in potting : Three parts rather light
loam, pulled to pieces, but not sifted, except for the seed pans,
and one part of thoroughly decayed cow manure, to which has
been added a good dash of sharp sand. In potting, the soil
must be pressed pretty firm around the roots, but not
too hard, or the water will not run through. Too loose
potting, however, will cause the plants to run too much to leaf,
consequently it is necessary to choose the medium course.

Propagated from seeds as described above.

Of varieties, crimson Tom Thumb and Sutton's prize Dwarf
are good crimsons. There is also a yellow variety, and a
variety having heads striped with crimson and yellow alter-
nately ; but the crimsons are best.

Coleus. — Soft-wooded stove plant. Grown for its handsomely
coloui-ed foliage. Minimum temperature, 55deg. These are
foliage plants, unsurpassed for beauty of colour or richness of
foliage, and whether grown as large or small plants, they are
extremely useful for decorative purposes. The leaves, which
are the chief points of beauty with coleus, vary in size from one
to four inches long to from half an inch to two inches in
breadth, and are shaped like those of a fuchsia, but instead of
being glossy are of a velvety texture, and thus show off their
varied colours to the greatest advantage. Their culture is
very simple; no expensive manures or medicaments are required,
but unless a minimum temperature of at least Sodeg. is main
tained, the plants cannot be wintered successfully. In such a
case it is far better to purchase plants in April, grow them
on carefully for the season, and then throw them away, than
to encumber the house with what will prove to be so much

Dictionary of Plants. 147

useless rubbish before tbe winter is out. The following is the
plan we follow most successfully, as it saves us the trouble of
wintering old plants.

In April we purchase a quantity of plants in thumb pots, at
a cost of about 2s. 6d. per dozen. We then transfer them into
Sin. pots, and place in a warm part of the house, keeping
moderately moist. As soon as the plants are about two
inches high the points are pinched out, and this causes the
plant to break freely, and as each break gets to be about
two inches long we repeat the process, until a good framework
is obtained on which the future plant can be constructed.
As soon as the roots touch the sides of the pots a 2in. shift
is given, and this is repeated until lOin. pots are reached,
when, with care in training, watering, &c., magnificent plants
will have been made, as the structure prepared at first would
cany a very fine head of foliage. For compost we use one-
half rotten turf from an old pasture, one-fourth thoroughly
rotted cow manure, and the other fourth composed of sharp
sand and leaf soil in equal proportions. Pot moderately firm,
and water freely when growth has commenced, giving occasional
doses of liquid manure (not sulphate of ammonia), especially
during the hot weather, as the plants grow very rapidly then.
Plenty of air and light must at all times be aiforded, so that
the plants are short- jointed and the wood firm, long spindling
shoots not holding the leaves firmly, consequently soon
becoming bare. G-reat care must be taken that the plants do
not suffer from the want of water, or the lower leaves
will fall and render them unsightly. A well-grown plant
should be of a globular or pyramidal form, and the lower
leaves should cover the edge of the pot, so that neither bare
stems nor soil are visible. The chief points to be observed in
the culture of Coleus are, free rich soil, plenty of water, and
a warm temperature, and careful attendance. The bloom is
insignificant and of no decorative value ; when, therefore, there
is the least appearance of a flower spike, the point of the shoot
should be at once pinched out.

Propagated by cuttings struck in bottom heat in spring, or,
in fact, at any time. For greenhouse work, cuttings should be

148 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

struck in spring only. The plants, as a rule, cannot be kept
througli the winter.

The following are all good and effective sorts, and are well
worth cultivation: Golden Gem, scarlet, edged gold, fringed
edge ; Brilliant, bronzy red, yellow edge ; Hermit, dark
purple, fringed brown; Sunrise, deep bronze red, edge beaded
gold; Her Majesty, the same as preceding; Cloth of Gold,
fine yellow self; Beauty of Widmore, dark marone, belted
with rose and green, and edged with silver, very fine ;
Refulgens, deep velvety purple, beaded bright green ;
Warrior, intense black velvet, belted pale yellow; Princess
of Wales, reddish carmine; Yerschaffelti, rich crimson;
Diadem, rosy crimson, gold edge ; Mr. J. H. Claringbull,
dark scarlet, wide golden edge ; Mrs. Galbraith, bright
scarlet, tinged purple, edged white; and at least five hundred
other varieties are really as good. If a couple of each of the
above are obtained in spring and carefully grown on, they will
form a splendid collection.

Convallaria. — See " Lily of the Yalley."

Coprosma. — Hard-wooded greenhouse or bedding plant.
Grown for its general appearance, but particularly for its
ornamental foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Cojorosma
Baueriana variegata is a shrub or plant of a highly decorative
character, being of compact growth and having obovate leaves
with edges of a creamy white, for which it is grown, both for
the greenhouse and bedding out, although it is somewhat
difficult of cultivation, oi* rather propagation. It requires a
brisk bottom heat to strike the cuttings, but where convenience
exists it well repays the necessary trouble. In the greenhouse
one or two plants look very well, and they may be put out
of doors throughout the summer. The green and white foliage
is very conspicuous, and shows up well. Cuttings should be
made in March, of young wood, taken off with a heel of the
old wood adhering, and put into cutting pots filled two-thirds
full of crocks, then a thin layer of rich light material, and
on top a layer of sand. Place the pots in a brisk bottom

Dictionary of Plants. 149

heat in a propagating frame, or into a sweet hotbed, covering
the pots in the latter case with bell glasses, and dui-ing the
time the cuttings are making root only just sprinkle the pots
with water, or the cuttings will damp off. When rooted, pot
into rich sandy soil, and gradually harden off as in the case
of other bedding plants propagated in a similar manner.
Another plan of propagation is to place the plants in a pro-
pagating bed, and layer the shoots that overhang the pot.
Old plants should be potted in a similar compost to that
recommended above, and should be pruned into shape each year
if necessary.
Propagated by cuttings, as already described.

Cordyline. — For particulars of Cordyline indivisa see under
" Dracaena."

Corouilla. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 38deg. This is both a pretty
and an easy subject to grow, and, like the cytisus, should be in
every collection. The flowers are borne in clusters, well above
the foliage, and are pea-shaped. The foliage is of a pleasing
and somewhat glaucous green, and when the plants are trained
over a trellis have a very good appearance. The variety C.
glauca variegata has the foliage striped or margined with
creamy white, and while being much prettier than the species
when out of bloom, is not so showy when the blooms are on it.
"We have found the treatment advised for the sorts of cytisus
answer admirably in the hands of amateurs, and therefore it is
not necessary to enter into a prolonged description.

Propagated by cuttings struck in sandy soil, in a close frame
or greenhouse, during spring or autumn.

For sorts both Coronilla glauca, yellow, and C. g. variegata,
yellow, variegated foliage, are good.

Correa. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. This is a class of plant
that commences to bloom in April, and the different varieties
keep in bloom till the end of the year. They are really fine

FIG. 52.-CORREA BICOLOR.

Dictionary of Plants. 151

plants, and should be in every collection. The blooms, which, vary-
in colour from scarlet to deep crimson in the tube, with a green
or light coloured band near the apex, are tube-shaped, and are
freely XDroduced from the matured wood of the past season. As
a decorative plant it is not easy to sui-pass it. It is of erect
growth, and therefore does not require to be tied out like
many others. In our opinion, it is far better to pinch back
the iDoints, so as to induce bushy growth, than to tie the
branches out with a multiplicity of sticks, judicious pruning
being in all cases preferable to sticks, if the plants are naturally
shrubby. Of course, with young specimens it is necessary to
keep the bottoms well furnished, both by pruning and tying
out ; but training is not a necessary operation after the plants
are furnished and the growth is set. "We find that these do
very well with much the same treatment as oranges, so far as
temperature and moisture go, and we have grown both Con-eas
and oranges successfully side by side. The plants should be
potted in April in good sound peat, to which is added a fair
allowance of sharp sand to insure porosity for a length of years,
as it is not advisable to reduce the ball of roots. When the
plants reach 12in. pots, potting should cease, and they should be
kept in blooming order by being watered with weak liquid
manure once a week, by which means they will keep in blooming
condition for two or three years ; meanwhile young plants can
be got on to take their place.

Propagated by cuttings of young wood taken off with a heel
and struck in sand or sandy peat in a close frame, with or
without a slight bottom heat.

For sorts we should choose C. hicolor (Fig. 52), C. Brilliant,
C cardinalis, C Cavendishii, C. delicata, C. Jardin d'Hiver, C.
magnifica, C. Ne plus ultra, and C. victa superha. All of these
are good and well worth growing.

Crassula. — See " Kalosanthes."

Crocus. — Hardy deciduous bulb. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 2odeg., or when in active growth,
35deg. This is a class of early blooming bulbous plants that

152 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

comes in very usefully in either cold or warm greenhouses, and
the cultui'e is very simple. Place from three to seven bulbs in
a pot, according to the show required, and arrange the colours
according to taste. Use a compost of rather rich loam and sand,
and allow plenty of drainage, as the plants will require liberal
watering while growing. For further treatment see " Hyacinths."

Propagation is effected naturally by the increase of the bulbs,
which occurs every year,

The following are good sorts for pot cultui*e : C vernus,
various (Fig. 53) ; C. vernus versicolor, white striped with purple
(Fig. 54); O.Albion, white, striped blue; 0. Alfred Tennyson,

Fio. 53.— Ceocus Vernus.

Fig. 54.— Ckocus Vernus
versicolor.

dark violet, striped white; C. Brunei, dark shaded blue; C.
Mammoth, white; C. Marquis of Lome, dark purple; C. Ne
plus ultra, blue, white margin ; C. Prince of "Wales, dark blue,
edge white ; C. Purity, pui-e white ; C. Golden Yellow ; C.
Cloth of Gold, golden yellow, bronze crimson stripes; and C.
Sir John Franklin, very dark indigo.

Cuphea. — Half-hardy perennial soft-wooded plant. Grown
for its flowers and general appearance. Minimum tempera-
ture, 36deg. C. jpiatycentra is very old-fashioned, very pretty,

Dictionary of Plants. 153

and withal very easy to cultivate. It is useful either as a pot
or a bedding plant, and, besides being simply pretty, the whole
plant is both strong and interesting. The flowers are tube-
shaped, about an inch long, of a reddish orange colour tipped
with black, and are shaped somewhat as the blooms of Fuchsia
fulgens. In fact, excepting that the flowers are axillary instead
of teiminal, the cuphea might betaken as a miniature F. fulgens,
as the leaves and flowers are both like the fuchsia named, and
the plant does not get above a foot and a half high. The old-
fashioned plan was to raise the plants from cuttings, which
strike freely in March or April if placed on a brisk bottom
heat ; but by far the better method is to sow seeds in January
or February, and then grow the plants on in rich sandy loam.
Grow on to nearly the size required, repotting from time to
time, and, when large enough, let the plants fill the pots with
roots, and then give ample doses of liquid maniu-e occasionally.
For vases, pots, window boxes, and various uses outdoors,
Cupheas come in very useful, and for the conservatory they are
fine subjects. In fact, we often wonder why they are so little
grown now.
Propagated from seeds or by cuttings, as described above.

Cyclamen. — Half-hardy deciduous bulb. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. These are plants that
should be represented in every greenhouse and conservatory, as
their decorative power is great for a bulbous plant. C. Persicum
is, pernaps, the best of the family for pot culture, but C. Coum
(Fig. 55), C. Euro2JCBum (Fig. 56), C. AtJcinsii, C. repandum,
and G. Ihericum are all useful according to their different forms.
The culture is comparatively simple, and with ordinary care
success is certain, but while the plants are in active growth they
must neither be neglected nor coddled up.

We have found the followmg method answer well in practice,
although quite opposed to the old-fashioned plan of drying
off the bulbs in summer, a plan that only tends to destroy the
bulbs and render them the reverse of floriferous. The culture
(to begin at the beginning) that we now adopt is as follows :
In October we sow the seed in broad pans, using a compost of

154 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

leaf soil, sand, and fibrous loam, and tlien stand the pans in a
warm hotbed until tbe plants are pricked off, in about six weeks
from sowing. The pans will be all the more suited for the
purpose if they are covered with flat sheets of glass, as it greatly
hastens the vegetation of the seeds, and, at the same time, a hot-
bed is not then necessary, as a warm greenhouse or stove will do
as well. When large enough we prick off into small pots and
place on a shelf in a warm greenhouse until February, when we

Fig. 55.— Cyclamen Coum.

pot off into 4in. pots, using good friable loam five parts and
thoroughly rotted cow manure three parts, with a good quantity
of sharp sand. "We then grow them on briskly until the first
week in May, and then transfer them to a pit or frame, and
gradually harden off ready for planting out the last week 'in
the Dionth. Meanwhile, we prepare a bed for their reception,
either on a north or a shady border. This bed is deeply dug and
pulverised, and a liberal dressing of thoroughly rotten manure

Dictionary of Plants.

155

and coarse sand is added to make it both, rich and friable.
We plant the bulbs out about a foot asunder, being careful to
retain a good ball of earth to each, and not cover more than one-
third of the bulb with soil. A good watering once a week and a
sprinkling with a syringe every day are all that are required
during the summer. About the second or third week in August
we take the plants up, with good balls of earth adhering, and
pot into 6in. or 8in. pots,

placing them in a close frame
for about ten days after they
are potted, and then ad-
mitting air as necessary, at
the same time paying due
attention to watering, &c.
About the end of September
the pots are found full of
roots, and the plants are
then removed to a shelf near
the gl^-ss in a warm light
greenhouse. Here, with at-
tention, they bloom for a
long period, and about May
they undergo the same treat-
ment as before. Care must
be taken to afford plenty of
drainage at all times, and
insects must be scrupulously
destroyed. So much for 0.
Persicum. For the hardy kinds a somewhat different treatment
is necessary, but as they are quite hardy they do not require
to be placed in a greenhouse at all. They should be potted
into 4in. or 6in. pots, the soil being as before recommended;
and, after potting, should be plunged in a pit or frame facing
the north. About October the position should be changed, and
the plants made to face the south during the winter. Air
ought to be given at all times, except in actual frost, and during
fine weather the lights should be thrown right off. In the place
of partly burying, the bulbs, as in the Persicum section, the

Fig. 56.— Flower, Bud, and Leaf
OF Cyclamen EuROPiEUM.

156 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

crowns of tlie bulbs of C. Couin, C. Europceu7n, &c., should be
about balf-an-inch below the surface of tbe soil, as in many
cases the roots start just below the crown of the bulb, instead of
the base.

During the summer we treat the hardy Cyclamen much the
same as the tender section — that is, those for pot culture — but, of
course, permanent plants do best in sheltered borders or in a
rockery. In all cases it is absolutely necessary to give hardy
Cyclamen a deep, rich, and well- drained border, where they are
pennanently planted ; and it is also requisite that the plants
should be protected from violent hail storms and very heavy
rains, as the leaves, being persistent during winter, are very
liable to be damaged if not protected.

Propagated by means of seeds as described above. The hardy
kinds should be sown on pans of sandy soil in a cold frame, and
potted as soon as they can be handled. The following season
they can be grown on in pots or planted outdoors, as may be
desired.

For sorts of C Persicuvi, the following are distinct, but a
packet of good seed will produce a great variety of colours
and markings : C. Persicum album, C. P. delicatum, 0. P.
punctatiim, C. P. puiyureum, G. P. roseum, C. P. rubrum, and
some others to be obtained at nurseries. For hardy sorts,
C Athinsii, C. A. carneum, C. A. roseum, G. Goum, G. G. carneum,
G. G. vernum {marmoratwin), G. Pluropoeum, G. Ihericum, G. I.
album, and G. repandum. For making a selection for pot culture
alone, we should use the Persicum section only, unless, indeed,
quiet instead of showy plants are requii-ed.

Cyperus. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 45deg. This plant, which is so
much used on account of its graceful palm-like appearance, is
not very hard to cultivate. Being a semi-aquatic, it likes plenty
of moisture while in active growth, and also likes good drainage,
so that the surplus water does not stagnate round the roots.
A good loam, or peat and loam mixed, is the best soil, and the
mode of culture is somewhat as follows : As soon as the stools
Btart growth in spring they should be divided if necessary and

Dictionary of Plants. 157

repotted into suitable soil, care being taken to provide good
drainage, and to pot fairly firm. Tbe soil should be moist,
but not saturated with water, and tbe pots placed in tbe
warmest part of the bouse. As growtb increases so must tbe
amount of water given be increased, because, when in full
growtb, great evaporation takes place. After tbe plants bave
attained tbeir full size, tbey are in form very like minia-
ture date palms, a foot or eighteen inches in height. If kept
regularly moist, they will last for some months, but they
must not be cut down till the young growth commences to
appear, and the pots must not be allowed to get dry till
then, or the stools (or roots) will be destroyed.

Propagation is effected by division of the stools or crowns
when the plants start growth, as mentioned above.

Good sorts for greenhouse work are: Cyperus alter nifoliuSf
green foliage ; G. a. fol. var., variegated fob'age, and where a
minimum temperature of 50deg. can be maintained ; C. laxus
fol. var., variegated foliage, is very useful.

Cjrfcisus. — Half hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. This is a plant that is
much grown for the London markets, and is well worth growing.
Its racemes of bright yellow flowers and its elegant foliage
make it a favourite with everyone, and a plant or two in a
greenhouse gives a bright appearance to what would, perhaps,
be only a mass of green foliage. The culture is very easy, and
the adaptability of the plants to an amateur's treatment is
very great, more so than scores of other hard-wooded plants ;
besides which the cost is very moderate; indeed, nice plants
in full bloom are to be had from a shilling each in the
season. It is one of the most popular spring plants that is
grown near London for sale, one large firm of our acquaint-
ance growing from 9000 to 12,000 plants annually. It is well
adapted for house decoration, as it lasts in bloom for a long
period, and, unless large plants only are grown, forms one of the
most useful house plants with which we are acquainted. Plants
about a foot high look very well for table decoration, only,
as the flowers are golden yellow, they look white by gaslight.

158 Greenhouse Maita^etnent for Amateurs.

Cytisus and Genista are the names the plant is known by in
different places, and it is immaterial which is asked for,
although Cytisus is now the generally accepted name.

The plants should be potted as soon as the bloom is over,
in rich sandy loam, with sand enough to keep the soil well
open. In the end of June they should be put out of doors,
and should remain out until September, when they should be
brought indoors, and jDlaced in a light position, so that they
may start soon after Christmas. They bear forcing very well,
and, where convenience exists, may form part of the early
batches of plants.

Propagated by seeds or by cuttings. Seeds should be sown
on sandy soil early in the season, pricked off into small pots
as soon as large enough to handle, and grown on till of a good
size ere being allowed to bloom. Cuttings can be struck in cold
frames or in the greenhouse in spring or autumn, friable soil
being used for the purpose.

For sorts we prefer C. racemosus, yellow; C. racemosus
superha, yellow ; C. Atleeana, yellow ; and C. filipes, white ; and
they are really good. "Where one or two plants only are grown,
the first two will be found to give satisfaction.

ACTYLIS.— Half hardy soft-wooded plant.
Grown for its foliage. Minimum tempera-
ture, 38deg. These useful dwarf gramina-
ceous pot plants are perfectly hardy, and
must be brought into the house in relays
as required. The inflorescence is not very
noteworthy, and should be kept removed, as the
foliage only is of value, and as this reaches
only to about four inches high, and is very
elegantly striped with a silver variegation, it is very effective.
Either a warm or cold house suits them very well for a time,
but, as the plants will not last long under glass, frequent
changes must be made. A compost of sandy loam suits them

Dictionary of Plants. 159

well, but, as plenty of water is required, good drainage must
be afforded. Some care will be necessary to keep down green
fly if tlie plants are in a warm house, and with, this exception,
but little fear of trouble from insects need be entertained.
They are much used out of doors as edging plants in fixed
designs, as their neatness renders them particularly useful in
this respect. The plants can be wintered in a cold frame or
in the greenhouse, where they are of value on account of their
foliage and general appearance.

They are easily propagated by division, a sharp, sandy loam
being used for compost, and the plants kept close for a day or
two afterwards.

For sorts, D. glomerata variegata, and D. g. elegantissima are
the best.

Daphne. — Greenhouse shmb. Grown for its flowers and
general appearance. Minimum temperature 38deg. This is a
class of plants well worthy of general pot culture, both for its
foliage and its finely-scented bloom, which, is borne in tenninal
bunches, and is tube shaped, and something like that of the
lilac in form, but is not above half the size. The leaves are
laurel shaped, but not much more than two inches in length,
and being of a dark green set the flowers off to great
advantage. Plants about eighteen inches high and well
bloomed are very effective. As it is nearly hardy, a cool
house suits it very well, and, as the cultivation is easy, it is
a very desirable plant for the use of amateurs. It does very
well trained on the walls in a partly shaded cool house, and in
several large gardens it is trained on the back walls of the
camellia bouse, where it affords the perfume that the camellia
lacks, and the foliage works in very well with that of the
camellias. As an ornamental perfumed plant, the Daphne
Indica (red) is second to none, and, as it requii*es no forcing
house to bring it into bloom during the short days when
fragrant flowers are scarce, of course it is within the means of
most persons who have a greenhouse. The two Daphnes we
prefer for house work are D. Indica rubra and D. cneorum (pink) ;
D. cneorum (Fig. 57), though it is perfectly hardy, yet pays

i6o Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

for potting-up and housing. The treatment of D. Indica is very
simple. In the first place, instead of coddling the plants up in
a high temperature, 55deg. is quite high enough for them
during the growing season, and, if the bloom is wanted
moderately early, the same temperature will gradually bnng
them on. They are of slow growth, although robust-looking.

and care must be taken to get the wood well ripened. During
summer the plants may be placed in a sheltered position out of
doors, and brought in at the same time as camellias and other
similar plants. A moist atmosphere suits them admirably
during the time they are making growth, but, when ripening
the wood, a drier situation is necessary. After blooming,

Dictionary of Plants. 1 6 1

pruning may be resorted to; keep tlie plants in shape, or
they become straggling in a few years, whereas they should be
kept as bushy as possible, if good appearance is desired. As a
rule, the plants are worked on one of the hardy kinds ; but we
advise amateurs to get them on their own roots, as we have
found them grow best when propagated in that manner. It
will not stand over-potting, blooming best if rather pot-bound.
Pot in the middle or end of February ; pot firmly, but, at the
same time, insure sufl&cient drainage. For soil use two-thirds
rich turfy loam, and one-third turfy peat, with plenty of very
coarse sand, and it is no disadvantage if some charcoal or
crocks are mixed with the soil.

Propagated generally by grafting, but, for an amateur's use,
cuttings struck in a cold frame or greenhouse, in sandy soil,
are best. Cuttings snould be taken off as soon as the growth
ceases.

For pot culture it will be found that D. Indica rubra is the
best, as D. Indica alba (white) is somewhat liable to canker;
but still cuttings struck in a cold frame under a bell glass will
do very well for a year or two. The first blooms from October
to April if the plants are brought on in succession, while the
white blooms during summer; this latter is best planted out in
the conservatory borders where there is room. D. collina, D.
dauphina, D. Fioniana, and D. Indica are the best for cold
house culture, and are very sweet scented, thus rendering them
very useful for bouquets.

Darlingtonia. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperatui-e
45deg. D. Calif ornica is one of the so-called carnivorous
plants, and is of American origin. As a manifestation of plant
life it is curious and interesting, and the structure of the plant
is alike wonderful and beautiful, albeit it is destitute of the
gaudy characteristics of many of our more ephemeral beauties
that "bloom and soon decay." It requires a wann house to
grow it well, a house where the minimum temperature is at least
50deg., and a north-west aspect suits it well. A moist but not
saturated atmosphere is required, and plenty of root moisture

i62 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

is necessary. The best medium in wbich to grow this plant is
chiefly chopped sphagnum mixed with about a fourth part of
heath soil and charcoal, the whole surfaced with chopped
sphagnum. Plenty of drainage must be afforded, and large
pans are far preferable to pots, the plant being
on a mound raised a little above the surface
of the pan. Dr. Moore, of Glasnevin, has
one of the finest specimens in Europe, and we
believe his treatment is much the same as
that just described. To an enthusiast in horti-
culture this will be found one of the gems
of the greenhouse, but it requires skill and
attention to grow it well.

,%-*"-'

Deutzia. — Hardy shrub. Grown for its
flowers, which are much esteemed. Minimum
temperature (under glass), 30deg. These are
about the hardiest of the dwarf white flower-
ing shrubs, forming bushes about a foot or
fifteen inches high, with oblong ovate, or
willow-shaped leaves, and in their season
covered with a dense multitude of small
white star-like flowers, borae in axillary
racemes for the whole length of the preced-
ing year's growth, and, as they can be bloomed
in either a cool or forcing house, they are
doubly useful. To have them at their best
it is, however, advisable to bloom them in a
temperature of from 45deg, to 50deg., as
then both foHage and flowers are well
developed ; but, at the same time, if only a
cold house exists, they will do well in such
an one. A compost of good sound loam,
enriched with about a sixth part of thoroughly decayed cow
manure, and rendered sufficiently penneable to water by the
addition of coarse sand, suits them well, while the pots,
which should not be too large, should be well drained. The
plants should be repotted each year after blooming, and plunged

Fig. 58.— Deutzia
Gracilis.

Dictionary of Plants.

163

in a bed of coal ashes, attention being paid to training and
arranging the shoots in such a manner that an equal growth
is maintained throughout the plant, so that it shall have a
somewhat globular form. Remove to a frame before frosts
come, and thence remove the plants to their blooming
quarters. Water will be required in proportion to the
growth, and an occasional dose of liquid manure will be of great
advantage.

Propagated from cuttings, layers, or suckers, but, as well-
grown plants are very cheap (about 5s. per dozen), it is not

worth while to raise young
plants; moreover, three years
must elapse ere they are of
useful size.

The two best sorts are D.
gracilis, single white, and D.
crenata flore pleno, double
white, this latter being finer
in the individual blooms, but
less effective as a whole than
D. gracilis (Fig. 58). D.
scahra is too gross a grower
for the purposes to which
the others are put.

Dicentra. — See " Diely tra."

Dielyijra. — Hardy her-
baceous plant. Grown for
both flowers and foliage.
Minimum temperatui-e (in
pots), 36deg. This is the
familiarly named " Dutchman's breeches," of the herbaceous
border, and is a deciduous perennial. The bright heart-
shaped pink flowers which are borne on long spikes of a
graceful drooping habit are very effective when combined
with other plants, and the bright and somewhat glaucous
foliage contrasts well with the darker greens of the hard-

M 2

Fig. 59.— DiELTTEA Eximia,

164 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

wooded kinds. As a rule, it is not judicious to grow Dielytras
in pots for more tlian one season. It is preferable to have
fresh plants each year, returning those which were bloomed
indoors into the borders, for one or two seasons, to re-
cuperate their exhausted strength, and in their places to
take others that have been in the borders for a similar
term. The roots should be potted into a compost of sandy
loam in well drained pots as soon as the foliage dies off,

Fig, 60.— Dielttra Spectabilis.

and the pots should be placed in a cold frame until introduced
into the house. If grown in a warm house they should have
a warm light position as near the glass as possible, and a
moist growing temperature should be maintained. They should
be neatly staked, and turned round frequently to equalise
the growth. When the blooming is over, the pots should be

Dictionary of Plants.

165

removed to a cold frame, and as soon as severe frosts are

Tig. 61.— Dion^a Muscipula.
past the plants can be placed out in the borders. Successional

i66 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

batches must be brougM in as occasion requires, and with
little trouble bloom can be kept up from February to
June. In tbe cold house the plants will flower — according
to the severity of the season — from the end of March till
June, and the general treatment is the same as in the warm
house. Plenty of water is necessary when they are in full
growth, and an occasional dose of weak liquid manure is an
advantaga It is also necessary to keep down green fly, or
ruin will be the consequence.

Propagated by division of the roots when they begin to make
growth.

The best sorts for pot work are D. spectabilis (Fig. 60), pink;
D. spectabilis alba, white; and D. eximia (Fig. 59), red; but this
last is not so easily grown as the other two. D. cucullaria, yellow
and white, thrives well in a cold house, but is not so good as
the rest. In fact, one rarely sees it grown in pots.

Dionsea. — D. muscipula (Fig. 61) is a carnivorous plant. It
does well with the treatment given to the Sarracenia, and is
far easier to cultivate. It should be grown in pots one-thii'd
filled with crocks, the compost one-third fibrous peat, and two-
thirds sphagnum, and some very sharp sand, with perhaps a
small quantity of charcoal. It requires a moist atmosphere, and
where this cannot be obtained in the house the plants should be
grown under bell glasses. The Dionseas are very interesting
subjects, the one named being about the best for the use of
an amateur. Some of the Droseras, also, thrive well with the
above treatment.

Dodecatheon. — Hardy herbaceous plants. Grown for their
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. These are
the American cowslips or " shooting stars," and although they
prefer a cool situation in which to grow, still they can be used
to decorate the cold house, provided a somewhat shady cool
spot is found for them. "We have grown them well with a
very little trouble in frames, and in an old cold house just
wind and water tight. The way our plants were treated was
".s follows : In November they were taken up and potted

Dictionary of Plajits.

167

in 6in. pots, in a compost of loam, enriched with leaf soil, and
rendered porous with a sufficient quantity of sharp sand.

Ample drainage was
afforded, as it is necessary
to apply plenty of water
while the plants are grow-
ing. They were kept in
a cold frame until the
first week in March, and
then transferred to the
house, water being applied
as required. After bloom-
ing they were plunged in
a bed of coal ashes, under
a wall facing the north, but
protected from inclement
weather, and during the
summer were well attended
to. The following year
they were treated in the
same way, but larger pots
given, and in the third
season they were divided,
so that they should not be-
come too large. One thing
must always be remem-
bered, namely, that these plants will neither stand hot sun
nor forcing heat, and are only fit for blooming in the cold
house, or frames, or to stand in rockwork, &c., as hardy plants.
Propagated by division when the plants are at rest.
Dodecatheon Meadia (Fig. 62) and its varieties are best for
pot culture, as they are the least trouble ; but the other kinds,
if well grown, really repay the pains. D. integrifolium,
crimson; D. Jeffreyanum, red; D. 3feadia, red; D.M. albiflorum,
white ; D. M. a. violaceum, violet ; D, M. elegans — giganteum of
some — rose and lilac ; D. M. lilacinum, lilac ; and D. M. pur-
pureum longiflorum, purple, are all good for the purposes we have
mentioned, and the first two make good exhibition hardy plants.

Fig. 62.— Dodecatheon Meadia.

1 68 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Dracaena. — Greenhouse hard- wooded plant. Grown for foliage
Minimmn temperature, 45deg. This is a class of ornamental
variegated foliaged plants that commands attention for general
culture by amateurs, as it is so useful for decorative purposes

Fig. 63.— Cokdtline (Dkac^na) Indivisa.

indoors. Small plants from 1ft. to 18in. high make very useful
centres for tables, for windows, and to stand in halls. The
foliage is leathery and stands gas well, and when dirty is easily
cleaned with a sponge and lukewarm water. Cordyline indivisa
is, in appearance, much like the Dracaena, and as the cultiva-
tion is much the same, we so treat it here. With these,

Dictionary of Plants. 169

as with all other fine foliage plants, care mast be taken to
damage the leaves as little as possible, or the plants soon become
very unsightly. Leaving out the varieties that require stove
and intermediate house treatment, there yet remains a good
variety for the greenhouse, which are all comparatively easy
of cultivation. Scale is about the only insect pest to be feared,
but with ordinary care can be kept down easily, hand picking
being the means employed. We have, however, found that
thrips will occasionally appear, but in a clean, well kept house,
their visits will be few and far between.

Dracaenas are not very particular as to soil, any ordinary
potting soil answering pretty fairly; but, of course, to obtain
the best results it is necessary to use the best only. This we
find to consist of equal parts of peat and loam, with enough
sharp sand added to keep the whole open enough for the water
to pass through freely. The soil should be rather coarse, and
not compressed too firmly, as the plants require plenty of
water throughout the season of growth, and hard compressed
soil makes it stagnate round the roots, thereby causing
disease and finally death. For the same reason plenty of
drainage must be afforded, and when large pots are used,
they should be chosen with holes round the sides as well as
at the bottoms. A rather humid atmosphere, plenty of water
and wannth, and a light position are requisite during the
growing season ; and if the plants are to be removed indoors,
they will require to be hardened oif, or the leaves will suffer.
For a start choose thrifty well-grown plants at a nursery, and
grow them on carefully. The modes of propaga.tion will be
described at the conclusion of our remarks on plants.

Propagated by cuttings struck in a moist bottom heat, such
as is afforded to stove plants.

The following will all be found very good: Cordyline indivisa,
VraccBiia atrosanguinea, D. Australis, D. BanTisii, D. Draco, and
D. Veitchii. "We do not give the colour of the bloom as it is
*)ut rarely borne in the ordinary greenhouse.

1 70 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

ICHEVERIA.— Half liardy, succulent, soft-
■^ooded plants. Grown for both foliage and
flowers. These are what are termed suc-
culents, and some of them are very fine
when in bloom, while others are more con-
spicuous for their foliage. The plants are
shaped like a rosette, and the common house-
leek affords an example of the form of the plant,
but the flowers are not the same. The flowers of the
echeverias, which vary somewhat in colour, are borne on spikes,
which issue from amongst the leaves, and these spikes bear
flowers for their whole length, of a bag-like form, but which are
very effective. The culture is very simple, that of the secunda
glauca varieties particularly so, the chief point being to keep
them through the winter, or until bedding time, as they will
remain in the house throughout the summer and autumn. They
are good plants for decoration, receive no injury from di'ought,
bloom profusely in the season, and bear hardships that would
utterly destroy less succulent plants. For all the secunda type,
a good, fairly rich, sandy loam is necessary, as well as com-
paratively small pots, and plenty of drainage, but if they are
required for house decoration it is advisable to use 4in. pots,
and a somewhat richer soil. E. metallica forms a fine specimen
in a lOin. or 12in. pot, especially when it is in bloom, and
everyone knows its value as a bedding plant. Echeverias are
easily propagated, either from seed sown in August, or from
cuttings of the flower stems taken at the same time, which
stems produce offsets ; or, again, from offsets which are produced
more or less freely from the base of the stems. These last
should be placed singly on small pots of sandy s jil, kept just
moist, when they soon strike root. A frame is best for the
purpose, kept nearly close. The young plants should have a
shift in March, and if not used for bedding purposes should
be placed in the frames in June. They should be shifted
into 4in. pots, in which they may bloom ; or else into Gin.
pots, when the foliage will be finer. Plants taken up from

Dictionary of Plants.

171

the ground should be potted fimily into small pots and kept
nearly dry through the winter, as damp is the greatest enemy
to be feared. All the Echeverias are useful for their foliage, and
the bloom of all of them is interesting, especially in a mixed
collection. The plants can be kept either indoors or out during
the summer, and if by accident occasionally not watered, will not

Fio. 64. — EcHEVERiA Agavoides.

flag, unless drawn up weakly from want of light and air. They
are also very easy to propagate, and anyone who has only a
sitting room window can grow a very nice collection. They
are, however, not quite hardy.

Propagated by division of the offsets, or by cuttings, according
to species.

172 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

E. pulverulenta and E. formosa have both mealy, silvery
leaves; E. rotundifolia is a cross between JE7. metallica and E.
secunda glauca, and the leaves are nicely tinted on the edges ;
E. fulgens is good both for foliage and flower, but for the
latter particularly, as it bears orange red flowers, with sometimes
a yellow tinge; it blooms with ordinary greenhouse treatment
in March, earlier if forced into bloom by a higher temperatui-e.
E. secunda glauca is good for its form and glaucous leaves ;
E. secunda glohosa is one of the best of the series ; E. metallica
has large fleshy, massive foliage, of a rich metallic hue, and
is very handsome ; E. agavoides (Fig. 64) is very fine, with scarlet
flowers, the plant being very much like an agave ; and E. atro-
purpurea, also, is good for its bloom, the colour being purplish
red.

Epacris. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. These are worthy of
more extensive cultivation, as they are little trouble, and very
pretty when rightly managed. One of the chief causes of
failure with the Epacris is neglect when it is out of bloom ; and
to this neglect very many of the failures are attributable, as
the plant is perfecting itself for the production of new blooms
while it is seemingly at rest ; indeed, this is the case with the
majority of plants, as they undergo many changes while not
in actual growth. With blossoms, as most persons know,
produced on the young wood, tube shaped and axillary,
the Epacris are very like heaths, and, therefore, it is neces-
sary that they should be properly grown and ripened to insure
the setting of the bloom buds. As a whole, they have a some-
what erect habit of growth, and are frequently taken for heaths
by the uninitiated, but are much easier to grow.

During the growing season it is a good plan to syringe
overhead occasionally, but not often enough to produce mildew.
After blooming, the plants should be cut down, and as soon
as they start into growth should be re-potted into pots a
size larger, good sound peat and sand being used for this purpose.
Pot very firaily and afford plenty of drainage, so that the soil
may not get sour, or the plants will suffer. Once in two

Dictionary of Plants. 173

or three years is often enough to re-pot, unless it is desired to
have larj^e plants. The plants should be in frames through
the summer, as, unlike heaths, they do best under cover as
a rule. In some varieties the growth is rather straggling; but
this is of small consequence, each shoot becoming a mass of
bloom in its season.

Propagated by ripe cuttings inserted in sandy soil, with or
without gentle bottom heat.

For a selection, choose from the following, all of which are
first-class : Epacris alba odoratissima, white ; E. carminata,
carmine : E. Alhertus, pink ; E. delicata, blush white ; E. densi-
fiora, blush ; E. elegans, E. grandiflora, scarlet ; E. hyacinthi-
fiora; Fireball, scarlet; Lucifer, red; Model, blush; E. mid-
tifiora, E. picturata, blush white; E, sanguinea, red; E. splen-
dida ; Vesuvius, red, and E. vesta, blush.

Epiphyllum. — Greenhouse succulent soft-wooded plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. These
are in reality cacti, or rather they belong to the cactus tribe;
and they are often included in collections of plants, of
which the majority are hard-wooded. As a decorative plant
the Epiphyllum ranks in the first class, whether we use it
exclusively in the greenhouse, or also for table decoration and
cut bloom (which ranges in colour from pink to deep scarlet),
as, in each case, it is very useful. The flowers are from lin.
to 2iin. long, and are borne at the end of the leaves or
branches, whichever they are termed, and are tubular, with
a cleft lip. It is, however, impossible to properly describe them
without an engraving, and it is better to see a well grown
plant in bloom before adding them to the stock of plants.
The treatment is very simple, as it is not supposed that
an amateur will go to the expense of grafting, &c., which
so often proves a source of trouble and annoyance, rather
than pleasure. As a general rule, we consider that it is
an ill-advised proceeding for an amateur to attempt the pro-
pagation of any plants which require special treatment and a
special place to grow them in, as, however interesting the process
may be, failure is almost sui-e to cause disgust with the plants

I 74 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

and all connected with them, and, therefore, should be avoided.
In places where a proper heat and atmosphere are kept up,
especially where a range of houses is under the charge of a
competent gardener, Epiphyllums are very easy to graft, and in
most houses under the charge of amateurs cuttings root freely,
and form good plants for hanging baskets. Epiphyllum trun-
catum var. is the only variety we shall describe, as it affords
plenty of variety for a beginner. We advise the purchase of
young pyi-amid or umbrella-headed plants as a start, and then
if basket plants are required they can be struck from cuttings.

As a rule, the plants bloom best if rather potbound; there-
fore, for general purposes, it is not well to give too much root
room to blooming plants ; but, at the same time, young grow-
ing specimens should have plenty of room to grow into large
plants, as they are the most effective. The soil they do best in
is good fibrous loam, lime rubbish, and cowdung rotted to
mould. Drainage should be well provided for, or the soil will
get sour, and the blooms will not last, a point that is of much
importance. Pot in the end of February, and keep close for a
few days, after which gradually expose to the full sun to harden
the growth, and so promote a large crop of bloom. While in
bloom, and during the growing season, plenty of water is neces-
sary ; but while the plants are at rest only a few waterings are
required. The Epiphyllum should be in every greenhouse where
a temperature of from 47deg. to 50deg. Fahrenheit is main-
tained during winter.

Propagated by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in a warm
greenhouse, or by grafting on stocks of Pereshia aculeata.

For sorts make a selection from the following : Epiphyllum
truncatmn albescens, E. t. amahile, E. t hicolor, E. t. cruentum,
E. t. magnijicum, E. t. purpureum, E. t. majus, E. t. salmoneum,
E. t. splendens, E. t. tricolor, E. t. violaceum, and E. t. violaceum
superhum. It may as well be mentioned here that the best plan
is to select from a large collection, and have as great a variety
of colour as possible, or the plants will appear very similar to
inexperienced eyes.

Eriobotrya. — Nearly harly hard- wooded small tree, grown

Dictionary of Plants.

for its foliage. Minimum temperature, 35deg. Eriohotrya Ja-
ponica {the Japan Medlar) (Fig. 65) is a very handsome large
foliaged evergreen tree that almost rivals the Ficus elastica
in stateliness. The plant, which, is of doubtful hardiness,
requires an ordinary greenhouse temperature to make it appear

Fig. 65.— Eriobottra Japonica (Flowers and Fruit).

at its best, and then it has its leaves from Sin. to 14in. long.
We have always raised the plants from seeds, and, as tlie only
point was to obtain fine foliage, our treatment was as follows :
As soon as seeds or fruit could be had in the shops, they were
sown singly in Sin. pots, and placed in a cold frame. When

176 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs-

frost set in tlie plants were taken into the greenhouse and kejDt
moderately dry. In spring we re-potted into oin. pots, and in
June plunged in the borders out of doors, taking care the plants
were not starved for water. They were wintered as before, and
in spring re-potted into Sin. pots. The plants were then kept in
the conservatory altogether, or stood out the same as oranges
during the summer. A small shift was given each year until the
pots got large, and then an annual top dressing and a regular
supply of liquid manure while the plants were growing were
found sufficient. Plants obtained from a nursery, properly pre-
pared for the purpose, will bear yellow fruit about the size of a
small apricot, and these are both useful and ornamental. They,
however, require to be a good size for this purpose, and there-
fore it is only in large conservatories where they can be
fruited.

Propagated by seeds sown in loamy soil in spring. Each
seed should be sown separately in a small pot, and the plants
should be grown on, re-potting as necessary.

Erythrina. — Half-hardy herbaceous plant. Grown for its
ornamental berries or seed pods. Minimum temperature, 40deg.
These are plants that are very ornamental when in fruit, and
should be represented in every greenhouse. The plant is nearly
hardy, and of an herbaceous nature, having particularly ugly
root stocks, from which the roots spring. It is very easy to
grow, and although it does best in a large pot, still moderate-
sized specimens can be obtained with care. The height varies
from 2ft. to 4ft., and the foliage is not bad-looking, but the chief
things are the bloom and seeds, both of which are bright scarlet.

The soil that suits it best is a sandy loam, or peat, with
water during the growing season, and treatment much the same
as cannas. The seed pods, when they open, contain many orange
red or scarlet seeds, which have the appearance of coral. The
blooms are somewhat pea-shaped, and vary in length according
to cultivation and sorts.

Propagated by seeds or division, but, as a rule, seeds are the
best method. Sow when thoroughly ripe on pots of sandy soil in
an ordinary greenhouse.

Dictionary of Plants.

177

The only two we have grown are JE7. crista-galli (Fig. 66) and E.
profusa; but from what we have seen of E. conspicua, E. mar-
ginata, E. ornata, E. Belangerii, and E. Marie Belanger, we think

Fig. 66.— Ertthrina Crista-galli.

them well worth cultivating. Cool treatment and proper
rest are the chief points in the culture of Erjthrinas.

Erythronium. — Hardy bulbs. Grown for both foliage and
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 35deg. The Dog's

178 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Tootli Yiolet, as it is called, is a most useful pot plant if well
grown in the cool house, and, with a little care, it can be done
well also in a house that is heated moderately, but it is not
advisable to subject it to too high a temperature. From its
low growth of finely blotched and marbled leaves, which are

C^'yU^

Fig. 67.— Erythronium Dens Canis.

about Sin. long, and its somewhat Cyclamen-like flowers, it is
well worth growing in all places where there is accommoda-
tion for it. As with all the Liliacese, careful attention and
steady growth are the only secrets in their culture, but should
they be done on the fit-and-start principle, then success will be

Dictionary of Plants. 179

very far from being attained. The destruction of insect pests,
also, is a matter of importance, and, indeed, of necessity, as tlie
plants, of wMcli tlie accompanying cut (Fig. 67) gives a good
representation, will not bloom ujiless kept clean. The bulbs
should be taten up in August or September, and potted, so that
the foliage when expanded will cover the pots, and the soil
should consist of about one-third peat or leaf soil and two-thirds
sandy loam, with plenty of drainage. Pot in soil that is in a
moist (not wet) state, and stand in a cold frame facing the
north, but from which frost is excluded. In December remove
the pots to the greenhouse, either warm or cold, keep the soil
just moist until the foliage appears, and then apply water more
liberally. After the blooming remove the pots to a frame, and,
when the foliage ripens, stand them in a bed of coal ashes;
re-pot the plants again in August, or, what is better, transfer
them to the borders, and pot up fresh ones.

Propagated naturally by the increase of the bulbs.

For sorts select from ^. dens canis album, white; E. d. c.
miajus, red purple ; E. d. c. majus roseum, rosy purple ; E. d. c.
onajus album, white, brown base; E. d. c. passiflorum, light
purple, shading to blue; E. d. c. 'purpureum, pui-ple; and E.
Americanum, yellow. The above will repay for any trouble that
may be taken with them, the cyclamen-like flowers being very
handsome indeed.

Eurya. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant. Grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Eurya japonica
variegata is a plant that requires a rather warm house to do
it well, but, as it is so handsomely variegated, it is worth a
little extra trouble. During the summer, syi'inge once a day,
and keep the roots well supplied with water, but after the
middle of October this should not be persisted in, and the
plants may be kept in a cool house during winter. Although
it is nearly hardy, it makes finer growth in a warm greenhouse
than in a cold one, and, consequently, the better plan is to
give it the former. We make it a rule to pot twice a year,
in February and June, until the plants have attained their full
size, and then pot only once a year. The soil used is equal

i8o Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

parts of fibrous loam, and peat, and a little sharp sand, and
we find this do well. After it has attained its allotted size,
ordinary greenhouse treatment should be given, and the plants
will do very well. Insects of all kinds must be kept down, or
they disfigure the leaves, and so spoil the beauty of the plants.
Training out must be seen to if nice shapely plants are wanted,
and any trouble will be amply rewarded.

Propagated by cuttings struck on a gentle bottom heat or
in a warm greenhouse.

I C U S . — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant.
Grown for its foliage. Minimum tempe-
rature, 36deg. Ficiis elastica, which is more
generally known as the Indiarubber Plant,
is very much grown for indoor decoration,
as its large glossy foliage stands gas and impure
air far better than the majority of the plants
generally used for the pui-pose, and so long as
actual frost is kept from it, will do fairly well.
Producing, as it does, longish oval leaves from lOin. to a foot in
length, for the whole length of the stem, it is very suitable for
all places where a handsome foliaged plant is needed, and the
height may be from two to five feet. The culture is very
simple in a greenhouse, as, unlike many other plants which
we have mentioned, there is no harm in allowing it to become pot-
bound so long as a sufficient supply of root moisture is afforded.
The general plan is to grow the plants as upright rods, well
fui'nished with leaves, although they can also be made to assume
a bushy form by stopping the points from time to time, but
bushy plants do not, as a rule, look best. Plants should
be obtained about a foot high to start with, and should
be grown on to the size desired ; but after a certain period the
lower leaves will drop off, and they will become bare at
the bottom. When this occurs they may either be placed

Dictionary of Plants. i8i

in a position where the stem is hidden, or they may be ex-
changed for young ones, or, what is perhaps better, they may
be sent to a nurseryman to be cut down, and have young
plants made of the tops of the shoots. Propagation is a point
in the life of this plant which an amateur should not attempt
unless he has a propagating pit, and very few amateurs have
this accommodation. The soil used by us is sandy loam, three
parts ; rotten leaf soil, one part ; and from one -eighth to one-
sixth part of silver sand. Sometimes we substitute peat for
the leaf soil, and we have grown the plants entirely in peat,
but the foliage is more lasting in the first -mentioned compost.
Scale and mealy bug sometimes .attack the stems, but they are
■easily removed and kept down, and it is only in dirty houses
where they occur. The foliage should be sponged occasion-
ally to remove dust. J^. repens and F. collina, also, are two
good wall creepers, with foliage from lin. to 2in. in length, and
■soon cover a rough wall or rockwork. As they have good
hard glossy foliage, they look well, and form an agreeable back-
ground for bright flowering or foliaged plants. For treatment
fiee above.

Pritillaria. — Hardy bulbous soft- wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature in pots, 38deg. These are
useful plants, in habit somewhat like the tulip (as shown in Figs.
68 and 69), for early blooming, and are very little trouble.
They can be had outdoors, in frames, or in the cold or warm
house, but they must not be forced, or the foliage will be more
remarkable than the flowers. They are chiefly useful for early
work, but we have seen bulbs produce adventitious blooms in
October, although such blooms are extremely rare. In August,
or early in September, they should be potted, four or five in a
pot, good sandy loam being used for compost, and plenty of
drainage afforded. Treat the same as the tulip, and good
results will be attained.

Propagated by the natural increase of the bulbs, which takes
place annually.

F. meleagris, chequered purple; varieties of meleagris, of
various colours ; F. Persica, brown ; F. prcecox, white ; F. pudica,

1 82 Greenhouse Managejnent for Amateurs.

purple and yellow; i^. tristis, brown; and F. tulip oefolia,hYoyni
and pui'ple, are all useful sorts. It is, however, best to select
tbe foi-ms of F. tneleagris for cbief dependence, as tliey are
certain to bloom well if good bulbs are bad in the first place.

Fuchsia. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. This is one of the
most important of all the soft-wooded plants, and requires a
very small amount of attention to produce ordinary small plants

."Fig. 68.— Fritillaria Meleagris.

Fig. 69.— Fritillaria Pudica.

for summer use. liTot that it is in the least necessary to grow
them in the house through the summer, but only during the
earlier stages of growth. In very few cases do amateurs go in
for show plants— rather the reverse— small well-grown plants in
4in. or 6in. pots being all that is sought, and where such sorts
as Conspicua, Mrs. Ballantyne, Yainqueur de Puebla, Talma,
&c., are nicely grown, but little more is desired.

Cultivation depends on which part of the year these plants are
wanted, whether early or late. If early, the cuttings should be
got in before Christmas, but if not required until autumn they
may be struck from January to early April. As soon as rooted

Dictionary of Plants.

183

they should be potted off into thumb pots, and kept gently
moving until March, when they should be placed in 4in. pots
in a light position, growing on freely, and the first batch will be
ready in May and June under glass. Those intended for
autumn should be pinched back in May, and as soon as they
break, placed in frames and closed for a few days. Then they
should have plenty of air and light, and about June should
have a shift into pots a
size larger, and, with
due attention to water-
ing, nice plants for de-
corative purposes will be
had in August. Cut-
tings struck in April and
grown on into 6in. pots
will bloom well from the
end of August until near
Christmas if taken in-
doors as soon as the wet
season commences, and
kept at a minimum tem-
perature of 55deg. Li-
quid manure must, how-
ever, be given in this
method of cultivation,
sulphate of ammonia
being preferable to other
more gross manures.
For general use the pre-
ceding is good if due attention to stopping, watering, &c., is paid,
the principles of which are described farther on.

We do not advise any amateur to attempt winter or early
spring Fuchsias, as they do not pay for the trouble involved in
growing them. As, however, some of our readers may possibly
desire to grow exhibition plants, we will describe the process of
culture. In September, cuttings should be taken of the desired
sort, from robust tops free from bloom. If the cuttings have
leaves produced in whorls of three, so much the better; but

Fig. 70.— Fuchsia Fulgens.

184 Greenhouse Managemefit for Amateurs.

this, thougli an advantage, is not absolutely necessary. These
should be inserted in 4in. pots, one-third of which should be
filled with crocks, and then the pots filled with a compost of leaf
soil, loam, and sharp sand, in equal proportions. Put from
six to eight cuttings in each pot, and water in, giving a good
watering to settle the soil. The cuttings should then be placed

EiQ. 71.— Garden Fdchsia.

on a light sheK in the greenhouse for the winter.
March the plants should be potted off into Sin. pots,
same compost, but, perhaps, a little less sand. The
shoot, or " break," as it is technically tei-med, should
permitted to remain, the others being pinched off.
attain Sin. or lOin. in height small sticks should be

Early in
with the
strongest
alone be
As they
placed to

Dictionary of Plants. 185

prevent tlieni bending or knuckling over ; also tbe points of the
shoots should be taken out, so that side shoots may be induced
to break. If the plants can have the benefit of a little warmth
until the end of April, so much the better, always provided that
proper care be taken to maintain as equable a temperature as
possible. As soon as the roots kiss the sides of the pots, it is
better to give a moderate shift than to wait until they become
entangled and then give a large shift. This re-potting should
be kept up until Gin. pots are reached, which should be about
the second week in May, gradual hardening off going on mean-
while. Care must be given to stopping and training, so that a
good framework may be obtained,, it being remembered that
the plants will be from 2Mt. to 5ft. high when finished. By
the end of May, if they have progressed in a proper manner^
they will be ready for transferring to the blooming pots, which
may be lOin., 12in., or 14in., according to the size and habit.

For soil use one-half chopped fibrous loam, the other half leaf
soil and thoroughly decayed manure, with enough coarse sand
to keep the whole sufficiently porous. Pass through a fin.
meshed sieve, not finer. Potting should be performed carefully,
the soil being pressed firmly around the ball of earth and roots,
but yet not made as hard as a gravel path. Place a neat stake,
from 3ft. to 5ft. long, in the centre of the pot, tying the plant
loosely to it. Now select a light, yet warm and sheltered, spot
out of doors, and stand the pots on pieces of slate to prevent the
ingress of worms. Carefully attend to watering and training,
as before, and allow the plants to remain until the second week
in June. Then plunge the pots into ashes, tan, or other
material, turning them round once or twice a week to prevent
them becoming lopsided or drawn. Liberal supplies of water
must be given, and liquid manure should be given twice a week.
Pinching should be discontinued about five weeks before the
show, when the plants should be a perfect j^j^-amid of foliage
and bloom; and slight shade should also be given about a
fortnight before. The composts given above should be used
for all classes of Fuchsias, either for show or ordinary pot work.

Propagated by cuttings, as described above.

The Garden Fuchsia (Fig. 71; may be recommended. The

1 86 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

following, altlioiTgli not perliaps tlie newest, are good sorts for
both form and colour. Dark single: Lord Elcho, Gipsy Girl,
Senator, La Favorita, Prince Imperial, Souvenir de Corne-
lissen. Double : E-ifleman, Percy, Universal, Amy Hoste.
Single whites : Schiller, Rose of Denmark, Lady Heytesbury,
Rose of Castille, Hugh Miller, Guiding Star, Maid of Kent,
Fairest of the Fair. Red, with white corolla, single: Conspicua,
Maria Cornelissen, Marchioness of Bath. Double : Yainqueur
de Puebla, Mrs. Ballantjme, Emperor of the Fuchsias. To these
may be added : Arabella Improved, Mrs. Marshall, Improvement,
Nabob, Water Njonph, Avalanche, Blue Boy, Gen. Grant, Purple
Prince, Sultan, and White Lady. In our opinion, the first twenty-
four are the best for all purposes. Yariegated foliage we object
to, as it detracts from the bloom, which is the strong point in all
Fuchsias. Among the showiest species is J^./i*?^ews (Fig. 70).

Funkia. — Hardy herbaceous soft-wooded plants. Grown for
both foliage and flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots),
35deg. As fine foliage plants for the cool or warm green-
house there are very few that can equal the Funkias in
particularly fine foliage, and, at the same time, the bloom is
not to be despised. They are deciduous perennials, just as
pseonies, and other plants of a like nature, having ovate leaves,
and throwing up long spikes of flowers in their season, and
when in their prime they appear as m the engraving {F.
Sieholdii, Fig. 72). Consequently, they require to rest for a
certain part of the year, and it is, therefore, best to keep
them in a cold frame from which frost is excluded during the
winter. In spring and early summer they can remain in
the house, which they will help to decorate m a very e:ffective
manner; but from the end of July, until the foliage ripens,
it is best to stand them out of doors, and their orna-
mental foliage will be useful in various places. The large
ovate leaves of some of the varieties, and the gracefully
curved spikes of drooping and somewhat lily- shaped flowers
about an inch long, the spike being nearly two feet in
length, render the Funkias very handsome specimens for flat
vases, large pots, &c., and, as the beauty of the plants lies

Fig. 72.— FUNKIA SIEBOLDII.

1 88 Greenhouse Manaoement for Amateurs.

in tlie form and markings of the foliage, tliey do well
stood rather low on the stages, or perhaps on the ground.
It is, however, a matter of the greatest importance that
plenty of light and air be given, and also that all insects,
particularly green fly, slugs, and snails, be kept scrupulously
destroyed, as, if these are allowed to prey on the plants, the
foliage will be anything but handsome. We use a compost of
loam, leaf soil, and rotten manure, to which some sharp sand
has been added. Plenty of drainage is also necessary, as,
during growth, the plants require free supplies of water.

Propagated by division of the crowns while at rest.

FunMa Fortunei, glaucous blue foliage ; F. glaiica, broad
glaucous leaves ; F. grandiflora, handsome foliage, highly
fragrant white flowers, which, if the plants are taken into a
temperate house ere frost comes, will continue in bloom until
December ; F. ovata variegata, leaves finely margined with
white ; F. 0. aurea, soft yellow foliage; F. ovata, glaucous green
foliage, puce flowers ; J^. ohcordaia, fine foliage and puce flowers,
and F. undulata medio -variegata, fine foliage and puce flowers,
will all be found very useful for the purposes named, and,
besides these, there are very many more which are useful for
either in or out-door decoration. The best plan is to see the
plants before purchasing, and a visit to a good nursery, — say,
Mr. Ware's, at Tottenham, — from June to September, would
amply repay the intending pui'chaser.

ALANTHTJS. — Hardy, bulbous, soft-wooded
jjlant. Grown for its flowers. Minimum
temperature (in pots), 30deg. The Snow-
drops are so well known that a description
is unnecessary; suffice it to say that a few
pots in the cold house come in very handily early
in the season. The culture is very simple — in
fact, so simple that the only thing to be sur-
prised at is the scarcity of these lovely blooms
just after Christmas. All that is necessary is to pot the bulbs.

Dictionary of Plants.

189

about five in a large sixty-sized pot, using a somewliat rich
compost of sandy loam and leaf soil, to which some sharp sand
has been added. The bulbs should be potted as soon as they
can be had, and then stood in a cold frame until the end of
November, when they should be taken indoors and kept just
moist until growth commences, when more water should be
given. It is also necessary that a light airy position should be
chosen for them, and it is an advantage if the house is kept at

Fig. 73.— Snowdrop (G. Nivalis).

a temperature of from 35deg. to 40deg. After blooming, the
bulbs can either be turned into the ground or thrown away.

Propagated by the natural increase of the bulbs.

The best sorts are (r. nivalis (Fig. 73), G. nivalis fi.-yl., and G,
plicatus, all of which are white, tipped with green.

Gazania. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. These are showy,,

190 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

nearly hardy bedding plants, and, from their habit and bloom,
should be in every collection. The flowers are like very large
single asters, and are two or three inches in diameter, according
to kind and culture; the plants are somewhat trailing with
lanceolate leaves, and being continuous bloomers, when well
grown they are very effective. In many places they are quite
hardy, while in others they require to be housed ; but in all
cases it is well to keep a few store pots in readiness to fill up
blanks or to guard against loss, while in places where the
bedding system is pursued it is a good plan to have the stock
in small pots at planting time, as in this state they are most
manageable, and work into the designs more readily. We take
cuttings in August and insert them eight in a Gin. pot of sandy
soU, half filling the pots with crocks. These pots we place
in a frame or on a bed of ashes until about the middle
or end of October, when they are placed in a cool house until
March. We then pot them off into comparatively small
pots (2^in. to 3in.), and in April place in a frame till re-
quired for bedding or for the furnishing of baskets, vases,
<fec. Too much heat or water should be avoided, and all
insects should be kept down carefully. A good sandy loam
suits the plants best.

Propagated as described above, or by seeds sown in a warm
greenhouse in February.

For sorts, select from G. pavonia, yellow ; G. rigens, orange ;
G. splendens, orange ; and G. splendens fol. var., orange flowers
and variegated foliage.

Genista. — Hard- wooded plant. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 36deg. This is a very favourite plant
for greenhouses and indoor decorations, as its bright yellow
blossoms and light elegant foliage have a charming effect
amongst other flowers. It is a plant that is very easily grown,
and it is perhaps for this reason that it is so popular ; how-
ever, its intrinsic merits fully entitle it to the high position
it has attained. The Genista is more properly known as the
Oytisus, and under that name full instructions for its cultivation
and a list of the best varieties will be found.

Dictionary of Plants. igi

Geranium. — Hardy soft-wooded plants. Grown for their
flowers and foliage. Minimum temperature, 36deg. One or
two of the Geraniums can be used sometimes in the cool house, or
they can be grown in a cold frame, and transferred to the house
when in bloom. The plants are perfectly hardy, and bloom very
freely in their season, bearing cup-shaped or recurved circular
flowers from one to two inches in diameter on erect stems, and
generally in trusses, as with the pelargonium ; but as they can
be made to decorate the cold house so much the better, and
the colours being of very pleasing shades tend to improve
the appearance of the place greatly. The culture consists in
simply re-potting when the growth commences, using a compost
of leaf soil and sandy loam, and potting moderately firm. A
fair amount of drainage must be afforded, or the plants will
not thriv^e. In no case is it desirable to introduce them to a
heated house, as they will not thrive well in such a place.
Another good plan is to carefully lift them when showing
bloom, and then pot them up, keeping in a shady place for a
few days, and then introducing to the house.

Propagated by seeds or division of the plants when at rest.
AVe do not here refer to pelargoniums, but Geraniums proper.

Some of the following can be used for cold house work
G. albidum, white ; G. angulatum, purple ; G. Ibericum, blue
G. nodosum, purple; G. jpliceum, black; G. pratense, blue
G. roseum, rose; G. sanguineum, blood red; and G. Vlassovianum,
red.

Grevillea. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shi-ub or small tree.
Grown for foliage chiefly. Minimum temperature, 36deg.
This is a plant of an ornamental character, and is worthy of a
place in all fair-sized collections. The foliage is ornamental, and
of very elegant appearance, being finely divided, while the
flowers are of rather a peculiar form, which it is impossible
to describe without an engraving, particularly so in rosmari-
nifolia, and for this alone the plants would be interesting.
As, however, they are grown almost solely for their fern-
like foliage, a deecription of the flowers is a matter of small
importance. As a comparatively cold house, or an ordinary

192 Greenhouse Mnnagement for Amateurs.

greenliouse only is required, they come within the reach of most
amateurs. We would, however, advise our readers to see them
before purchasing. For soil we generally use good fibrous loam,
and enough sand to keep the compost sufficiently open for the
passage of water, as most loams go into a bad state as soon as
the fibre decays, unless sand is used. The plants should be
re-potted when they cease blooming, and they require much the
same treatment as Cytisus. As a rule, specimens about a foot
to two feet in height are best, but they can be allowed to get
much higher if desired.

Propagated by seeds sown in spring in a warm greenhouse,
in sandy soil.

For sorts we should prefer G. alpestris, red, yellow; G. Drum-
mondii, white, yellow ; G. Hilli; G. lavendulacea rosea; G. punicea
splendejis, scarlet ; G. rohusta, orange ; and last, but not least,
G. rosmarinifolia, red.

Guernsey Lily. — See '•' Serine."

ABHOTHAMNUS. — Greenhouse hard-
wooded shrub. Grown for its flowers and
general appearance. Minimum tempera-
ture, 40deg. This is a plant that does well
in a house that is heated to about 40deg.
or 45deg. during winter, and although it
is generally used as a climber it makes no des-
picable pot plant, as its foliage sets off the
blooms to great advantage. It requires plenty
of pot room, and we always find it do best in a free and
moderately rich soil, where it will produce its terminal
clusters of bright coloured flowers for the whole season, and in
a warm house for the whole of the year. For pot cultivation,
cuttings should be struck in August, and when- rooted should be
potted as frequently as the roots reach the sides of the pots.

Dictionary of Plants. 193

They sliould be pinclaed back early to cause them to become
bushy, and if this is done early in January they often bloom
well according to their size ; but the next season they do better,
as a iTile, if potted, and grown on' in the frames or outdoors. It
is desirable to use large pots, as the plants require plenty of root
room, and at all times they must be carefully looked after, in
regard to watering, &c. Where it is desired that they shall
form wall plants, they should hare large boxes, or, what is
better, should be planted out in the borders, and receive liberal
treatment ; bloom will then be plentiful.

Propagated by cuttings struck on a slight bottom heat, or in a
close frame, as described above.

IL. elegans, carmine ; H. fasciculdtus, crimson ; and H. elegans
fol. argenteus are three of the best.

Haemanthus. — Greenhouse bulbous soft-wooded plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is
a very showy class of bulbous plant, resembling the amaryllis,
and is well worth cultivation. We have found it do well treated
in the same manner as the Guernsey lily ; in fact, we have had
finer blooms by this treatment than by any other.

Propagated by offsets, which should be treated in the same
manner as the old plants.

The best we have seen (not stove varieties) are H. coccineus,
red ; H. alhifios, white flushed pink, sometimes pure white ; and
H. puniceus.

Hedychium. — Greenhouse soft-wooded herbaceous plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature (when at rest)
35deg. Hedijchium Gardnerianinn, the Indian Garland Flower,
as it is frequently called, is a subject that is well worthy of
cultivation in all conservatories of a fair size, as it is best
planted out, when it makes a fit associate to the various large-
growing fine-foliaged plants used in such structures. Planted
out in a wide border in a conservatory, with a compost of good
loam enriched with a little thoroughly decayed manure, rendered
porous by the addition of some sharp sand, the Hedychium will
make heads of honeysuckle -like bloom and growths of Canna-

194 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

like foliage far surpassing anything grown in pots; yet in the
latter they are not bad if properly grown. Occasional supplies
of liquid manure are also very beneficial in producing increased
strength and vigour.

For pot culture the following answers well : Purchase the
plants in winter, and as soon as they show signs of growth re-pot
into pots or tubs from 15in. to 18in. in diameter, giving about
Sin. of drainage. Water thoroughly until growth pushes freely,
and then apply pure water in an almost unlimited amount,
occasionally giving a dose of liquid manure. By forwarding
some and retarding others, a continuance of bloom can be main-
tained for some months. As soon as the bloom is over the
flower spikes should be cut down, and the strongest of the others
left through the winter, when some of them will produce early
spikes of bloom. If the flowers are fertilised artificially they
will produce seeds of a bright orange scarlet colour, very showy
and interesting, but of course the production of seeds weakens
the plants a little. In spring, when the plants are re-potted, the
rhizomes can be divided, and many plants will be made; but, in
our opinion, one or two good specimens are preferable to a
number of smaller ones, the size of the plant rendering a large
number out of place in any but very large conservatories. In
the second season the spent earth can be partly removed, and the
plants re-potted into pots or boxes only an inch or two larger,
or, if this is not convenient, into the same sized pots or boxes,
and they will carry (with the aid of liquid manure) from eight
to fifteen flower spikes, which make a handsome specimen.

Propagated by division of the rhizomes, as described above.

There are red, orange, yellow, and white Hedychiums, which
any good nurseryman can supply, although we believe they are
mostly unnamed.

Heliotropium. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Heliotrope is a
constituent of most bouquets in the season when it is in bloom
out of doors, and in winter it is very much esteemed, as it is
one of the best scented flowers to be had; and as these are
borne in close heads of small five-cleft florets, they are very

Dictionary of Plants,. 195

useful for cutting. It is not very difficult to grow if certain
simple rules are followed, but if tliese are neglected, small
success will follow. There is little labour required to produce
bedding plants ; simply strike tbe cuttings, in the autumn,
and winter them in store pots, or keep old plants until
early spring, and then strike cuttings and grow them on
briskly, whichever is most convenient. In either case we find
that it is the most convenient plan to strike the cuttings in a
moderate bottom heat, and to strike in sand only. The advan-
tage in keeping old plants is that sometimes plenty of bloom is
had without any trouble, especially if a waiTo. and moderately
dry atmosphere is kept up ; in fact, such a house as that in which
tricolour pelargoniums are wintered will suit them nicely, pro-
vided bloom is not the chief point aimed at. Another plan,
where bloom is required, is to take up the plants used for. bed-
ding, and, after potting them up, place in a moderately brisk
bottom heat for a fortnight, and then cutting them back, place
them in heat until they break freely, gradually hardening them
off so that they may be brought into a house at a temperature
of about oOdeg. "With care in training, &c., re-potting about
the end of February, nice plants full of heads of fragrant bloom
may be had during April and May. Planted out, and trained
over a trellis in a conservatory, where a minimum temperature
of 50deg. is maintained, heliotropes will bloom for the greater
pai*t of the year, and few plants answer better.

For soil, use good fibrous maiden loam two-thirds, and
thoroughly decomposed manure one -third, adding sufficient
sharp sand to maintain the whole in a porous condition. We
strike in sand, and pot off into the above compost, in which the
plants both bloom and grow freely.

For conservatory decoration, pursue the following plan. In
July or August insert about six cuttings round the edge of a 6in.
pot, giving plenty of drainage, choose strong terminal shoots for
cuttings, which should be about liin. long. Stand the pots in
•a close frame, and shade from the sun, keeping the pots fairly
moist. In about a month shift the young plants singly in Sin.
pots, still keeping them in the frame, but admitting air freely.
As soon as the pots get filled with roots, re-pot into 48-sized pots,

o 2

ig6 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

stand in tlie frame for a week or ten days, and then eitlier
remove the lights altocrether or stand the plants out. Some of
them will have a single stem only, and others will be bushy.
The former should be nicely staked and reserved for standai'ds,
as plants of this form, about three or four feet high, are
extremely useful. As soon as there is the least chance of frost,
place the plants in an airy light position in the greenhouse,
and give only just enough water to keep them alive during
the winter. As soon as they start in spring, turn them out
of the pots, reducing the balls of earth somewhat, and then
re-pot into pots one size larger. At the same time shorten the
branches of the busliy specimens a little, and give them all
more heat and moisture, to induce them to break freely. About
May give another shift, and also less fire beat, and increase the
supply of fresb air. Then divide the plants into two batches
— one to be placed in the frames in June after being re-potted
into Sin. pots, the otber to be kept in the conservatory, where
they will bloom for a long time — many months, in fact. Those
placed in the frames should be brought into the consei-va-
tory in September, and, by maintaining a temperature of
50deg. to 55deg., an abundance of bloom will be obtained
until the late plants are ready. The first batch should be
wintered and treated as before described.

Standards should be run up to the height desired and then
stopped, and afterwards the shoots stopped and trained into a.
nicely-balanced head. The same general treatment applies ns-
indicated above. The old K. Peruvianum makes a good plant to
cover trellises in the conservatory, giving an abundance of
bloom for many months in the year. The soil used must be-
the same as mentioned before.

Propagated by cuttings as already described.

The best sorts for pot culture or bedding are : Surpasse Guas-
coi, lilac to French white; M. Semeul, reddish purple; Mrs.
Lewington,dark purple; Miss Nightingale, darkish purple; Hurst.
Mettemich, French white; Madame Fillion, violet, white centre;.
Jersey Beauty, lavender; Mme. J. Amy, light blue; Mme. Bour-
charlat, dark blue ; Mons. Cassanave, dark purple ; and Souvenir-
de Leopold I., light lavender lilac, very free and dwarf.

Dictionary of Plants. 197

Hibbertia. — Greenhouse hard-wooded climber. Grown for
its flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature,
36deg. Hibbertia volubilis is a good pillar plant, as is also
H. Cunningliamii, and the large yellow buttercup-like blooms
which are freely produced over the leafy twigs of the whole
specimen are very effective, rendering the whole of the space
covered by the plants a mass of floricultural beauty. The
Hibbertias are, however, only suited for covering pillars or
walls, and should therefore only be used for such work. It is,
however, not so much grown as it should be, although it
deserves a place wherever there is space. It is a plant that
requires plenty of root room, and may either be grown in large
pots or planted out, care being taken to provide good drainage,
a point that is too frequently neglected. We have grown it in
peat and loam, both together and separate, always providing a
sufficient quantity of sand to maintain the soil in a healthy
porous condition, as in no case will any plant do well in a
close sticky soil, hard-wooded plants particularly. If insects
begin to attack, they must be got rid of at once, or they will
soon cause the plants to become unhealthy and unsightly.

Propagation is best effected by seeds, in the hands of the
am^ateur gardener, but as only one or two plants are likely
to be needed, it is better to purchase them when they are
required.

Hovea. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. It is well worthy of
cultivation, especially in point of its adaptability as a roof or
bush plant. It has pea-shaped flowers, and very distinct foliage,
the blooms being produced freely from the axils of the leaves of
the previous year's growth. In propagation it is best to raise
from seeds, as cuttings are rather difficult to strike. The plant
is rather slow growing, and, therefore, particularly suited to
small or medium-sized houses.

Sow on a gentle bottom heat in March, and pot off as soon as
the rough leaf appears, using good turf, peat, or loam, witk
about one-sixth silver sand, to keep it open. Grow on till the
plants are about three or four inches high, and then pinch out

igS Greenhouse Management for Amateurs

the points, to cause the young plant to be busliy. As soon as
a shift is required, a small one should be given. As the
plants grow it is very likely that some of the shoots will
take the lead over the others, and when such is the case they
should be stopped back, and, in fact, it is not a bad plan to stop
all the shoots again when they reach about six inches in height.
This second stopping causes the plants to become pretty well
furnished, and, as it were, lays the foundation of the future
plants. Seedlings require the heat of an intermediate house
rather than that of the greenhouse, for the first season, but
after the first rest they^can be transferred to the greenhouse.
For this reason the amateur will find it by far the best
plan to purchase plants that are of a moderate size from a
nursery, as then all the preliminary trouble is avoided, and no
other than a greenhouse is necessary. If, however, plants are
required for roofs, they had better be raised from seeds, and
not stopped until the required height is obtained, when, if they
are pinched back, and carefully trained, they will make good
plants, and be very ornamental.

The following treatment is more suitable for an amateur, and
is that necessary for plants which have been purchased in 6in.
pots in autumn. These should be wintered in a light house, as
near the glass as possible, and at a temperature from 40deg. to
45deg. It is advisable to pick off the flowers the first season,
if it is desired to have nice specimens ; but at the same time it
is not absolutely necessary to do so, if the bloom is particularly
desired. As soon as they have started into growth an inch or
so, give a shift into pots an inch or two larger, pot firmly, and
allow sufficient drainage. Shut up the lights early in the after-
noon to retain as much sun heat as possible, so as to ensure an
early growth. About the end of April just sprinkle the plants
in the afternoon with the syringe to ensure a good growth, arid
should any of the shoots be inclined to run away, lie them
down, so that the flow of sap may be equalised. Shade is not
required, but a proper amount of water is necessary to ensure
success, although over watering is to be avoided. About the
end of August admit air freely to harden the plants off.
Winter as before, and in the following spring they will be very

Dictionary of Plants.

199

fine from a decorative point of view. After blooming they
should have a shift if the soil is full of roots, but if not it
can be left for another year. The only insect that is likely to
do much damage is scale, but this is easily destroyed by using
a strong solution of " Gishurst Compound," or " Fowler's In-
secticide," either of which will destroy it.

Propagated from seeds, as described above.

The varieties that we have found suitable are B.. Celsii, blue ;
H. ^purpurea, purple ; and H. jpungens major, blue.

Fig. 74.— Hota Carxosa,

Hoya. — Greenhouse hard-wooded climber. Grown for its
flowers and foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This plant
is remarkable for the wax-like appearance of the foliage and
flowers which are shown in Fig. 74, and this is what causes it to
be much sought after. It is one of those plants that give com-
paratively little trouble, but which always look well if kept clean.
Even if no flowers are obtained the foliage is far prettier than
that of many of the plants that are grown for their foliage alone,
the peculiar brightness and waxy appearance being very beauti-

200 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

ful, and if we consider tlie appreciation it generally receives it
stands pre-eminent as a wall climber. It can eitlier be planted
out, or grown in good-sized pots, according to tbe convenience
of the grower, but in neitber case must it get dry dui-ing the
growing season, or tbe leaves will bave a rusty appearance.
For soil, use peat and loam in equal parts, witb enougb sand to
keep tbe wbole porous, and do not overpot, as tbere is no
advantage derived from so doing. Tbe temperature of tbe
bouse must not sink below 40deg., and tbe plants sbould not
be exposed to full sun during very bot weatber. Training
sbould be carefully attended to, and water sbould be applied
wben necessary.

Propagated by cuttings of ripe wood inserted in pots of sandy
loam in tbe greenbouse.

For sorts, iT. carnosa stands first, and, if one variety is not
enougb, add H. c. variegata — a variegated foim of tbe preceding
— or H. bella, wbicb is not of sucb free growtb as H. carnosa.

Humea. — Half-bardy berbaceous perennial. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. H. elegans and
H. purpurea are two very useful balf-bardy perennials; but
tbey succeed best if treated as biennials, and, as tbe seed is
very moderate in price, we recommend tbat course. Sow
tbe seeds tbinly in ratber sandy soil in April, and transplant
into small pots (tbumbs) as soon as tbe first leaf appears.
After tbe young plants root into tbe fresb soil, gradually barden
tbem off, and place in cold frames about tbe end of May,
being careful tbat tbe temperature does not fall below 45deg.
As soon as tbe pots are full of roots (but not pot-bound), re-pot
into one size larger, paying particular attention to watering,
and keeping free from insects. Continue re-potting as neces-
sary, but giving only one size larger eacb time ; keep tbe plants
as close to tbe glass as possible, wben it is necessary to keep
tbe ligbts on, and syringe every evening during liot weatber.
Early in September remove tbem to a ligbt position, near
tbe glass in a greenbouse, wbere a temperature of 45deg. to
50deg. is kept up, admitting as mucb air as can consistently
be allowed, and re-potting from time to time as requisite, as

Dictionary of Plants. 20i

the chief secret in cultivating these plants is to keep them
steadily growing. About the end of May they may be again
transferred to the frames, the treatment being as before. From
12in. to 15in. pots will be found necessary to bloom them well,
and, during the whole of their growth, no check must be given.
They will bloom from about July till the end of October, or even
later, and, as the plants are very imposing in appearance, about
4ft. in height, and the drooping feathery inflorescence is nicely
perfumed, they are very welcome additions to the stock. In
growing them a slightly moist atmosphere rather than a dry
one should be kept up.

The best soil to use is a good rich light fibrous loam, with
enough sand added to secure the necessary porosity, as, when
growing vigorously, they require plenty of water, and conse-
quently plenty of drainage.

Propagated from seeds as described above.

The two varieties we name are fairly distinct, and are
certainly good, viz. : H. elegans, reddish brown ; and H.
purpurea, brownish crimson.

Hyacinth. — Hardy bulbous soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 40deg. Yery
few persons who have a greenhouse would care to have the
Hyacinth absent, and as the plants are alike useful in both
heated and cold houses, their value is so much the greater.
The culture of the Hyacinth is comparatively simj^le, but
at the same time it is necessary to observe certain rules.
The first is to have perfectly sound heavy bulbs, which
should be selected clear from offsets or protuberances, and,
what is equally as important, with only one crown. In
fact, a Hyacinth should be like a fine onion, clear in the
skin, and smooth and well proportioned, and, at the same
time, heavy for its size. Rich sandy soil should also be
provided; and, lastly, a sufficient time for the production
of roots should be allowed before they are brought to the
light, or only very indifferent results will be obtained. A
compost composed of one-half good loam, one-third good leaf
soil, and the rest manure and sand, will suit Hyacinths well,

202

Greenhouse Manage?nent for Amateurs.

Fig. 75.— Single Hyacinth.

and cause them to produce
large spikes. Tlie bulbs
sliould be obtained as early
in the season as possible, and
a portion — including some of
the white Roman — should be
potted up at once, plenty of
drainage being given with
the compost mentioned above.
The pots should then be
plunged in a bed of coal
ashes or cocoa fibre refuse,
and the bulbs covered to a
depth of six or seven inches.
The other bulbs should be
stored in a cool place, potted
up from time to time, and
treated as the first batchy
and these later lots will make
good successions to the first
.ones. After the bulbs have
been under cover for about
five or six weeks they can
be taken out and placed in
a frame or greenhouse, and
kept moist. The flower spike
will then soon throw up, and
the plants should be kept
near the glass, so that all
the light that can be ob-
tained may be afforded them.
A temperature of 50deg. will
bloom the bulbs well in the
early house, and if plenty of
water is afforded the plants
when they are growing vig-
orously, fine spikes of bloom
will result. The successional

Dictionary of Plants.

203

batctes must be brouglit forward from time to time, and treated
tlie same as the first lot.

Propagated by division of the offsets, which are formed
naturally round the base of each blooming bulb.

Fig. 76. — Double Hyacinth.

Some good single sorts (Fig. 75) for pot work are : Amy,
bright red ; Meyerbeer, bright red ; Mrs. Beecher-Stowe, delicate
rose; Ariadne, rose shaded with pink; Circe, carmine; Norma,
delicate pink ; Yon Schiller, deep salmon pink ; Tubiflora, blush

204 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

white; J.Z6a maajma, pure white; Blanchard, pure white; Grand
Yainqueur, white; La Candeur, white; Couronne de Celle, blue,
light centre ; Grande Yedette, pale porcelain blue ; Baronne Yan
Tuyll, blue; Brunette, rich blue; "Chas. Dickens, pale shaded
blue ; Nimrod, light blue ; General Havelock, black purple ;
Mimosa, black ; Anna Carolina, yellow ; Heroine, jDale yellow ;
Ida, good clear yellow; La Pluie d'Or, primrose. The yellows
are not nearly so good for pot culture as other colours, but
they make a change in the appearance of the plants. The
doubles (of which Fig. 76 shows a good type) require special
treatment, in order to make them worth notice ; and we
mention no varieties because, unless where exhibition pur-
poses are contemplated, such treatment will not be repaid
by results.

Hydrangea. — Hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. This, although a hardy
shrub, is often grown in greenhouses, and when properly culti-
vated produces such a fine effect that it is worth a place
amongst the more generally accepted greenhouse plants ; it
has a very handsome appearance, as shown in Fig. 77. H.
hortensis (pink) and H. paniculata are the only members of the
family to which we shall refer, as they are the best and most
met with. The question to be determined is, whether plants
with one large corymb of flowers, and about 18in. high (as
grown for the London markets), or of larger size with several
smaller ones, are desirable ; for, although the treatment is
similar, it is necessary to select the plants for the different
plans. Strike cuttings in gentle bottom heat in the end of
August, and when well rooted, pot off into 4in. pots in
a free rich soil, containing a small allowance of peat, or, if
this is not obtainable, leaf mould and silver sand; choose
only the lateral or side shoots, and keep them growing in a
warm greenhouse, near the glass, throughout the winter.
Liberal supplies of water are necessary to ensure large flowers,
and, consequently, there must also be good drainage. During
the time the jDlants are in full growth, occasional supplies of
weak liquid manure can be applied with advantage. If more

Dictionary of Plants.

205

than one slioot is required, old cut-back plants can be used,
but we think the single corymb makes the greater display, as,
being larger, it is much more conspicuous. The same plants
can, by attention to soil and culture, be made to bear blue
flowers, and this opens to amateurs a wide field for interesting
experiments. It is said that a ferruginous soil will produce the

Fio. 77.— Hydrangea Hortensis.

blue-colour, and we have certainly seen masses of Hydrangeas
in Devonshire, where the soil is strongly impregnated with iron,
covered with azure blossoms.

Propagated by cuttings of ripe wood of the current year's
growth inserted in pots of sandy soil in a cold greenhouse or
frame, or by layers.

-^*^.-^-'

2o6 Greenhouse M anacrement for A77iateurs.

'CE PLANT.— Half -hardy annual, grown for
its foliage. Minimum temperature, 45deg.
It is very often necessary to grow these for
decorative purposes, as they will stand the
sun so well. The perennial kinds can be
raised from seeds, but we do not think that
it is advisable to do so as a mle, as more certain
results can be had from cuttings ; but still they
can be raised in the manner hereafter described
if it is thought desirable. The Ice Plant, which is trailing, and
has ovate leaves about an inch long, which appear to be covered
with small globules of ice, and from which the name is derived,
and one or two others which are best treated as annuals, do well
if grown as under, and they are certainly fine plants in their
particular section. In most cases where the Ice Plant {Mesem-
bryanthenium crystallinum) is used for garnishing there is but
poor foliage, i.e., foliage deficient in crystalline beads, to use a
common expression, and this is usually caused by their being
grown in too shaded a place. For our own part, we should
choose a place fully exposed to the sun, but where a somewhat
moist atmosphere can be maintained, for the purpose of pro-
ducing fine foliage, at the same time starving the roots some-
what. For the ordinary run of plants we sow in a warm house
in February, using well-drained pans of sandy soil. The seeds
are distributed thinly, and but slightly covered with soil, a
sheet of glass being placed over the pans, as previously described
for other seeds. The pans are then placed in a warm sunny
position and not allowed to get dry, but at the same time they
are not kept too wet, or the seedlings would rot off. As soon
as large enough to handle, the plants are potted off in small
pots, and as soon as these are filled with roots they are shifted
into Sin. or 4in. pots in which they can remain for the season. A
compost of two parts good loam, one part leaf soil or thoroughly
decayed cow manure, and one part sharp sand, crushed mortar,
and crushed charcoal in equal proportions, will be found to
answer well, an inch of drainage being given to each pot.

Dictionary of Plants. 207

Propagated from seeds as described above.

For sorts from seeds, and treated as annuals, we have found
tbe following to be the best : ilf. crystallinum (Ice plant), white;
M. tricolor, crimson and white ; and M. t. album, white.

Illiciuni. — Half-hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature 36deg. I. Floridanum is by
some persons much esteemed on account of its flowers being
perfumed, the scent being very much like that from anise. The
Illicium is very nearly hardy, having bright evergreen leaves and
bearing axillary flowers which hang in twos and threes, and may
therefore be treated as described for other things of a similar
nature, the plants being put out of doors during the summer,
&c. For soil use good sound turfy loam, to which a little leaf
soil has been added, with enough sharp sand to keep the whole
open. Pot moderately firm, and do not over water, and the
plant will bloom abundantly.

Propagated by cuttings as described for Hydrangea.

Imantopliyllum. — Greenhouse bulbous soft-wooded plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. It is
also called by the name of Clivea, at least so far as two or
three of the varieties are concerned. The culture is very simple,
and provided proper attention is paid them at some seasons,
at others they can remain under the stage of the green-
house. The chief point is to grow them well and freely during
the summer, and to give them rest during the winter. We have
grown them successfully in the same manner as Amaryllis,
which they much resemble in bloom and foliage, and also in the
following manner : In March the plants are re-potted in a com-
post of loam and leaf soil, with the addition of some sharp
sand, in from 9in. to llin. pots, and they are watered in ac-
cordance with the growth. The same heat as the other stock
receives is given, and as the weather becomes warm, air is
freely admitted, so that the plants shall be fairly hardy. The
blooms should be supported by neat stakes, and as probably
there will be several heads, they should be trained apart so that
a fine head of bloom is shown on each plant. After the bloom
is over it is well to keep the plants growing vigorously until

2o8 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

the leaves begin to ripen, and then gradually leave off watering
until they are in a dormant state, when they can be placed undei-
the stage.

Propagated by division in the same way as Amaryllis.

The sorts we have grown are 1. AUoni, I. miniatiim, and I.
cijrtantliiflorum. The colours are shades of orange red, and the
flowers are produced in large numbers.

Indian Garland Flower. — See " Hedychium."
Indiarubber Plant. — See *' Ficus Elaatica."

Iponioea. — Greenhouse and half-hardy annual climber. Grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature 45deg. to 50deg. Amongst
the Ipomoeas some of the prettiest climbers for the conservatory
will be found; and they are very useful, as both bloom and
foliage are very handsome. The blooms, in form like those of
the convohnilus, which the plants generally resemble, are of
various colours, and, as these are very diverse, a fine show may
be made ; if a little trouble is taken in hybridising the varieties,
excellent results are almost sure to follow. It is, however,
desirable not to save seeds from dirty-coloured flowers, such as
brick reds or muddy-colom-ed blues, but in all the shades of
colour clearness should be aimed at. The culture of the
Ipomceas is very easy, and, in proportion to the beauty of the
plants, may be said to be about as profitable as that of any-
thing grown. Ipomoeas require plenty of root room, and do
best in a border in the house; but, where this cannot be afforded,,
large pots or boxes are necessary, that a sufficient run for the
roots may be allowed. The plants are useful trained over
trellises, or on pillars, or, in fact, anywhere, provided sufficient
light is given, but, if the roof is overhung with grape vines, it
will be useless to try to grow them. The time of sowing will
depend much on the accommodation for growing, and, according
as the seeds are sown early or late, so will be the period of
blooming. Where convenience exists, it is well to sow early,
placing two seeds in a small 60-sized pot. As soon as the
roots kiss the sides of the pots, re-pot into 4in., and, when the

Dictionary of Plants. 2og

roots touch the sides of these, the iDlants should be transferred
to where they are to bloom. Plenty of drainage must be
afforded, and the soil in the larger pots should not be sifted, but
broken up small with the hands. We have found a good
compost to consist of equal parts of fibrous loam, rotten manure,
and leaf soil, with enough sharp sand added to keep the whole
well open. Plenty of water will be necessary during the
growing season, and a rather moist atmosphere suits the plants
best.

Propagated by seeds as described above.

For sorts, select from I. coccinea, crimson; I. Learii, violet
and blue; I. rubro ccerulea, sky blue; and I. r. c. alba, white.
There are several others, but we curtail the list so as not to
include doubtful varieties.

Iresiue. — Half-hardy, soft- wooded plant. Grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is much used for
bedding, having oval leaves about an inch and a-half long, the
plants being from 1ft. to l^ft. in height, and, from the metallic
bronze colour of the foliage, whether dark red or bronze-
coloured reddish green, it contrasts favoui*ably with other
foliage plants of a brighter hue. The Iresines are, how-
ever, plants that require a brisk heat to grow them freely
at certain times, that is, to obtain presentable plants for bed-
ding out; but, at all other times, a minimum of 45deg. will
keep them in fair health. The way we manage them is as
follows : We take up the old plants in September, or strike
young ones in the end of July, and grow them on in pots, housing
them in September, giving a light place near the glass, at
the same time not over- watering for the winter. In the begin-
ning of March cuttings are taken off and struck in nearly all
sand, the pots being placed in a brisk bottom heat. The old
plants from which these were taken are also placed in heat, and
supply an abundance of shoots. When the cuttings are rooted
they are potted off into a compost of loam and leaf soil, to which
a large amount of sharp sand has been added ; they are returned
to heat again, and, when about Sin. high, the tops are pinched
out, and, as soon as the plants break freely, they are gradually

Fig 78.-IRIS HISTRIO.

Dictionary of Plants. 21 \

hardened off, and finally bedded out in June. Some of them
may, however, be grown on in pots, and, by shifting frequently
until Sin. pots are reached, stopping from time to time, and
paying due attention to wateiing, fine decorative plants will
be made.

Propagated by cuttings, as described above.

The following three varieties are good, viz., J. Lindeni, dark
blood-red leaves, tall; I. acuminata, taller than the next, but
variegated like the latter, having brighter colours, fine for pot
work; and I. Herhstii, dark crimson, ribs and stems of a
carmine coloar, but on some soils having a reddish bronze hue
instead of coming true.

Iris. — Hardy, bulbous, soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 3i3deg. Some of the
bulbous Irises are worth growing in pots for the decoration of
the greenhouse, but more particularly for that of the cold
house, as there the colours come very pure, and the markings
are very distinct. Great care, however, must, be taken that
insects are kept down, and that the plants are kept as near the
glass as possible, so that they do not become drawn, for, if that
should happen, or the plants become infested with green-fly,
they will not bloom, and, unless they bloom, they are useless
from a decorative point of view. They are from a foot to two
feet in height, and in general appearance as shown in Fig. 79.
The general treatment is the same as for fritillarias, and if
the directions for the culture of those plants are followed, a
good show of bloom may be reasonably expected. Some of the
evergreen Irises may be bloomed in the cold house, or in a cold
frame, if the roots are carefully taken up and potted in pots
sufficiently large to hold the clumps without damaging the roots,
with good sandy loam for soil, and plenty of drainage. As a
rule, however, it is not safe to try to force the herbaceous
sorts, as they will not stand being over-excited, but, in the cold
house, they can be had in bloom very easily.

Propagated by offsets, which are produced naturally.

Amongst bulbous sorts, the varieties of J. xijyhioides have
the largest flowers; those of I. xiphium are the earliest. . The

212 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

following varieties of J. xiphioides are very good, and are really
worthy of being well cultivated : Brutus, reddish, purple ; Damon,
pure white; Gloriosa, pale blue and white ; Grand Yainqueur,
rosy lilac; La Beaute, lilac; Lord Palmerston, purple; Miss
Barclay, white, splashed with violet ; Mungo Park, dark violet ;
Penelope, white, mottled with, lilac; Pourpre Blenatre, rich

Fig, 79.— Iris Eeticulata.

purple. Of I. xi;p1iium, the following are really good: white,
yellow, rich violet pui-ple, and blue. If the bulbs are had to
the colours named, no advantage will accrue by purchasing
named sorts, the only difference being in the price. I. Histrio,
which is of the I. reticulata type, is very handsome (Fig. 78)

Dictionary of Plants.

213

and has also a very pleasant perfume, but, being of compara-
tively recent introduction, is not so com-
mon as others of the same type. It is
well worth cultivation when bulbs can
be had, and should be in every collec-
tion. J. jjavonia major (peacock iris),
beautiful white, with sky blue blotch
on each petal ; I. Persica, white, blue,
and yellow ; I. reticulata, deep blue and
golden yellow (Fig. 79); I. Susiana
' (Chalcedonian iris), broad petalled blush
tinted brown flowers, netted with dark
lines (Fig. 80) ; I. tuherosa (snake's
headed iris), rich violet, tinted glossy
black flowers ; I. primula, various ; and
I. suavolens, various, are all good for
our purpose, if grown in a manner con-
sistent with their various habits. The

chief points are, to treat as nearly as possible a,s hardy plants,
to give plenty of air, and to keep free from insects.

Fig. 80 —Iris Stjsiana.

Isolepis. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 36deg. This plant, which is
in reality a rush, is most useful for various decorative purposes,
whether in rooms, in the greenhouse and conservatory, or for
table decorations, its grass-like foliage surmounted with its
tufts of flowers, in all about 9in. high, being very graceful
and effective ; consequently it should be grown in every green-
house in the land ; but, while it will do anywhere if frost is
excluded, still it is far preferable to grow it in a house where
at least a minimum of 45deg. is maintained. In fact, a higher
temperature would produce better results, but, as in many
cases this cannot be had without injuring the other stock, the
former temperature must suffice. "Where sufficient heat is at
hand the plants can be kept growing briskly throughout the
winter, while in cool houses they should be in an advanced
stage before winter sets in, so that the chief point may be to
preserve and prolong their beauty rather than cause a fresh

2 14 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

growth. Of course allowance must be made to meet any
special features in the case, but the following treatment will
be found to produce excellent results : Pot the plants (after
dividing the old stools) in a compost of sandy loam, leaf soil,
and thoroughly rotted cow manure in equal parts, adding
enough sand to keep the whole open. Keep them close for a
week or ten days, and then air can be admitted more or less
according to the season. Re-potting can be done at almost any
time when heat is readily obtainable, but in cold houses this
operation is best perfonned in April and August, the plants
being divided into two batches for the purpose. Few insects"
attack the Isolepis, but slugs and snails must be guarded
against. In no case must the plants get dry at the roots, or
the foliage will become brown and unsightly, and the beauty
be thus lost.

Propagated by divisions of the tufts or crowns, and this
division can be carried on to a very great extent if in a warm,
moist greenhouse. Although seeds are to be obtained, they
cannot be relied on, as they should be sown as soon as ripe.

ASMIITUM. — Hardy hard - wooded
climbing shrub. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 36deg. Jasminums,
being of a not too robust growth, can be
grown successfully in pots, and while
young may be trained on trellises affixed
thereto, either flat or balloon shaped. The
blossoms being tubular, and more or less odori-
ferous, they are very desirable for cut blooms, while
the pinnate foliage is of a bright green, and very pleasing. The
plants, which can be used on walls or pillars, or trained as
bushes about two feet or more in height, are best purchased
from a nursery in autumn, and kept in the greenhouse until
about March, when they should be re-potted, or planted out

Dictionary of Plants. 215

as the case may be, good sound peat being cliosen, or two-
tLirds peat and one part loam, and a suflB.cient quantity of
sharp sand to ensure the proper porosity of the soil. A
minimum heat of at least 40deg. must be maintained to keep
the plants in thorough order, and while plenty of ventilation
is maintained when necessary, the ordinary temperature of the
house will be sufficient. "Water must of course be given as
needed, and the syi-inge must be used occasionally both for the
sake of cleanliness and to keep down red spider. Training must
be afforded as required, and shoots that unduly take the lead
over the general growth of the plants should be stopped.

Propagated by cuttings of ripe wood of the cui-rent year's
gi'owth, in sandy soil, with or without gentle bottom heat.

For sorts select from /. Azoriciiini, J. gracile, J. grandijlorum,
and /. odoratum.

We have also seen the hardy /. revolutum grown well in a
cool house, but it should be treated as a hardy plant during
the summer, when, with careful treatment, it will bloom freely
early in the season. The flowers are highly fragrant, of a
bright yellow colour, and the foliage is of a very rich green.
Treated as a shrub it does far better than as a climber c^r
wall plant, and as it blooms better and earlier in the greenhouse
than out of doors, it f ally repays any trouble bestowed on it.
For soil we use turfy loam one half, good peat, as used for
azaleas, one part, and leaf soil, or rotten cow manure, and
sharp sand in equal proportions, one part, potting rather firmly,
and not allowing too much room at the roots. We rather prefer
to have the plants slightly pot bound, and to assist them with
liquid manure.

2i6 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

A Ii HH I A. — Hardy hard-wooded shrub.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum tem-
perature, 36deg. This useful class of
American plant is well suited for the cool
house. The flowers are very pretty, much
like some of the rhododendrons, which the
plants much
resemble gene-
rally, and the

treatment given to those

will suit Kalmias. With

care they will bloom

well each year, but we

prefer plants freshly

lifted, for these generally

answer best. The plants

that have bloomed in-
doors can also then be

planted out to prepare for

indoor work again when

required. A soil composed

of peat and sand is neces-
sary, and firm potting

must be the rule. For

treatment, see *' Rhodo-
dendrons."

Propagated by cuttings

or seeds, but as the plants are very cheap, and but few are

needed, it is generally considered better to purchase than to

be troubled with propagation.

The sorts most suitable are K.glauca and K. latifolia (Fig. 81).

both of which are very pretty, and repay the trouble that may

be taken with them.

Fig. 81.— Kalmia Latifolia (Truss of Flowers.

Kalosanthes. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. These plants, which

Dictionary of Plants.

2l^

are so mucli esteemed for decorative purposes during tlie season,
are of easy culture if ordinary care is used ; but it is a sign
of careless cultivation to see them 3ft. or 4ft. liigh, instead of

18in., and the clusters of blos-
soms consisting only of four or
five, instead of several dozens.
The scarlet variety is most effec-
tive for decorative purposes ; but
if the blooms are cut and wii'ed
for table \vork, the flesh-coloured
or pink variety also is very showy.
For the decoration of rooms they
are at times useful, but as their
habit is erect they ai'e better
suited for the consei'vatory, as
they can be there worked in ■ to
greater advantage. The flowers
are also sweet-scented, which is
an additional advantage, and the
general appearance of the plant
can be gathered from the flower-
ing branch shown in Fig. 82.
The best way to grow them is
as follows : In August or early
in September, take cuttings about
3iu. long, choosing shoots which
have not bloomed ; strip off a few
of the bottom leaves and insert
each cutting singly in a Sin. pot,
using a compost of loam, leaf
soil, and pounded biiek or crocks
in about equal proportions. Place
these pots on a shelf in the green-
house or in a warm pit, keeping
them as near the glass as possible, dnd gilding only enough
water to prevent flagging. "When well rooted, remove to a
cool dry greenhouse for the winter, giving but little water,
BO that the plants shall be kejjt at rest till the spring.

Fig. 82. — Kalosanthes Coccixea
(Flowering Branch).

2 18 Greenhouse Manageynent for Amateurs.

Early in March re-pot into Sin. or lOin. pots, using a somewhat
heavier soil, and also plenty of drainage. After potting,
carefully introduce the plants into a growing temperature, and
induce them to grow freely, but, at the same time, take care
that they are kept near the glass, or they will become long
and spindly and of small value. As growth commences some
of them will have several shoots, while others will have but
one. In the former case remove all but seven or eight, and
in the latter pinch off the top to induce the formation of young
shoots, as it is these which will bear flowers. About the end of
May plunge the plants in a bed of ashes outdoors, or stand them
on a hard surface, as the plunging is not absolutely necessary ;
but it is necessary to give them a hot and open (though shel-
tered) spot from the time of re-potting until the fall, when they
should be taken into a cool house before the weather becomes
too cold. Here they can remain, until the flowers open, in a
temperature of 45deg. to 50deg. Some may be got on earlier
by giving more heat, while others may be retarded by keeping
them a little cooler, so that a succession can be kept up. If
due attention is paid to watering, staking, &c., during the
summer, fine plants, covered with large trusses of flower buds
will be produced by autumn, and then the only question is to
get the buds open at the time desired, and this is done by the
routine already described.

Propagated by cuttings as described above.

The sorts we prefer are as follow: K. coccinea sujperha and
K. coccinea (Fig. 82), crimson ; K. versicolor, flesh or pink. K.
splendens is also very good; but the first two are decidedly
the best.

Kennedya. — Greenhouse climber. Grown for its flowers
and foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is a family
in which the old families of Zychia and Hardenbergia are incor-
porated, or at least the three plants are now classed under the
first name by most botanists and nurserymen, and we therefore
comply with the rule. These plants afford considerable variety
and for this reason are suited for general cultivation on a
larger scale than is usual. The cultivation is comparatively

Dictionary of Plants.

219

easy, provided the soil is so prepared as to remain in a healthy
condition, and plenty of drainage is afforded. Use either peat
or peat and loam, with a sufficiency of sand, as previously
advised for other plants, potting pretty firmly. Water must
not be given more than is required,
neither must the soil be permit ted to
become dust dry at any time, or
serious damage will be done. A warm
greenhouse or conservatory — where
they will produce their pea-shaped
flowers in great abundance, which
being prominent above the trifoliate
foliage are very conspicuous — suits
them best, but still, if the minimum
temperature in winter is from 40deg.
to 45deg., they do very well. The
attacks of insects must be kept down,
as advised for other plants, or the
foliage will become unsightly. Be-
sides being useful as climbing plants,
they can be trained on trellises or
balloon-shaped wire frames, but not
less than loin, frames should be used.

Propagated by seeds sown on sandy
soil in a warm greenhouse, or in a
gentle bottom heat early in spring,
and carefully grown on until the
plants attain some size.

For sorts, select from the following :
K. Australis, K. coccinea, K. Comjjton-
iana, K. digitata, K. inophylla, K. i.
vm'iegata, K. lilacina, K.mono2)hylla,
K. m. variegata, K. ovata, K. 0. alba,
K. 0. inirpurea, K. 0. rosea, K. pan-
nosa, K. t'uhicunda, and K. r. siq^erha.

Fig. 83.— Kerria Japonica
(Flowering Spray).

Kerria. — Hardy shrul), the stems of which are biennial, as
with the raspberry. Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature

220 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

36deg. This old-fashioned plant is very good for bringing into
bloom early in tlie season, and there is very little trouble in
doing this. Suitable plants should be chosen as soon as the
leaves fall, taken up carefully, so as to preserve all the roots,
and potted up in pots of sufficient size to hold them comfortably.
Good sandy soil should be used, and the pots should be well
drained, but with the exception of these points no further special
directions are necessary. The plants can either remain in a
cold house, or they may be gradually introduced to a warm one,
where the flowers will be freely produced. The blossoms, which
are yellow — buttercup colour — are formed somewhat like a
double daisy, and contrast admirably with the white cerasus,
but they require wiring to be of use as cut bloom.

Propagated by division of the stools, in the same way as
with the raspberries. As they are perfectly hardy, it is advisable
to place out the forced pot plants each year, and take up fresh
clumps which have been divided the year previously, and grown
on in rich soil for the purpose of potting. By following this
plan the best results will be obtained.

The only kind which is really worth cultivation in the green-
house is Kerria jajponica flore-pleno, the old double yellow, a
flowering spray of which is shown in Fig. 83.

ACHENAIiIA. — Greenhouse bulbous soft-
wooded plant. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is a
class of greenhouse bulbous plants which,
though of great individual beauty, is still
much neglected. Indeed, at the time when they
most require attention, as a rule, they have
the least, probably owing to the fact that their
blooming period is then over. The bulbs are com-
paratively cheap, and are to be had at most nurseries.

About October or November they should be put into Gin.

Dictionary of Plants, 221

or Sin. pots, from seven to twelve bulbs in the 6in., and from
twelve to eighteen in the Sin. pots, ^j this plan good masses
of foliage with a fair number of spikes of bell-shaped pendulous
flowers are obtained, and a better effect produced than by
growing in smaller numbers, the lax flag-like foliage forming
a handsome mass from which the flower spikes issue. It is well
to mention that here a little discretion must be used, as in many
cases the bulbs will be strong, and then a less number will be
required ; and, again, weak bulbs will require to be much closer
together, so that in reality they must be planted according to
size. By far the best plan is to place the larger bulbs in the
centre and the smaller ones around, as the growth is then more
evenly balanced. In potting, about an inch of drainage should
be put, then an inch of thoroughly decayed cow manure, and
the pot filled up with a compost of yellow fibrous loam and
enough sharp sand to keep up the necessary amount of porosity.
As the bulbs are very small, it is preferable to fill the pots and
then insert the bulbs, first putting in a pinch of silver sand for
the bulbs to rest on. ISTo water should be given until the plants
are growing well, and then it must be given freely. To grow
them well they should be stood on a bed of ashes in a cool
frame, and kept somewhat near the glass, but especial care
taken to exclude frost. It is also a good plan to exclude light
from the bulbs until they are well started. "When well ad-
vanced they may be placed on the front shelf of a greenhouse
until their beauty is over, then they should be taken back to the
frame to complete their growth and ripen off the bulbs, as on
this depends their value as decorative subjects.

Propagated by the division of the bulbs, which increase
naturally.

The best three varieties are Tj. pendula, red, tipped with
pui'ple and green; L. quadricolor, and L. tricolor, scarlet, yellow,
and green. For all cool houses these will be found gems
amongst bulbs, but no forcing must be attempted.

Lautana. — Greenhouse soft- wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 38deg. These plants are useful
for greenhouse decoration and bedding-out ; and whether grown

222 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

for one or other of tliese purposes, or for botli, if grown well
they are sure to give satisfaction. For ordinary greenhouse
culture they are well adapted, as they produce flowers for six or
seven months in the year, with no more trouble than is necessary
to grow a geranium. They strike very freely, are easily raised
from seed, and winter well, doing very well in a-house where the
temperature does not fall below 38deg. Combined with these
good points, the heliotrope-like flowers are consiDicuous, showy,
and borne at the ends of the shoots, where they are in full
view, and, what is more important to the amateur horticul-
turist, they are not subject to any insect pest to an appreciable
degree. In many places they are used pegged down in place of
verbenas, with this disadvantage, that crimson, scarlet, pure
white, and self purple are absent, the shades generally having
more or less orange in them. Nevertheless, the whole of the
plants are well worth cultivating.

The way we manage them is to strike cuttings in August or
early in September, pot off into small pots, and winter in an
ordinary greenhouse, re-potting in March into Sin. pots, and
when the sjde shoots are large enough stopping them back, and
striking the points in a gentle bottom heat, by this means
having plenty of plants from a small space. If it is desired to
have large plants for decorative purposes, those that were
stopped back should be re-potted into 6in. pots, and carefully
grown on, a pyramidal form of growth being chosen, in which
they ^dll exhibit their flowers to perfection. Plenty of water
will be necessary while the plants are growing freely, but no
liquid manure should be used until the pots are full of roots;
then a solution of sulphate of ammonia may be applied most
advantageously, as this manure is best suited for the production
of flowers. The ordinary stock may be bedded out in the
proper season, and will be very useful both for the display of
bloom obtained, and for cutting, but great care must be taken
in the latter case that no bruised foliage is used, as it then
■emits a very unpleasant smell.

For soil, we find a compost of one part leaf mould and two
parts good maiden loam, and a fair amount of sand answer well,
and we pot moderately firm, but not too hard, or the plants

Dictionary of Plants. 223

will not grow freely. We find Lantanas do best without
manure.

Propagated by cuttings as described above.

The following sorts, which we have grown ourselves, are all
good, and should be in all collections : Ne plus ultra, centre
of truss straw yellow, and shades off at the edges to rose pink
tinted with lavender ; Lutea grandiflora, fine yellow ; La
Manula, rose pink centre, yellow outside; Julius Caesar, bright
bronze yellow ; Marquis de St. Laporta, bronze self ; Favorita,
bronze yellow, changing to dark brownish scarlet, and tinted,
bright purple ; Doni Calmet, pink, changing to peach and
yellow; Mons. Felix Aliburt, purple pink suffused with gold;
Distinction, orange scarlet; Imperatrice Eugenie, pale pink, clear
yellow centre; Victoire, white, lemon eye; Kinus, canary
yellow; and Mons. Rougier Chauviere, yellow, bordered bright
red, changing to scarlet. There are also other named sorts, of
which we have not sufficient knowledge to justify recommenda-
tion, but the preceding we know to be good. A packet of seed
from good varieties raised in heat in January or February will
bloom some time between July and October, and will afford many
different marked flowers, some of which are sure to prove useful.

Lapageria. — Greenhouse hard-wooded climber. Grown for
its flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature,
36deg. This is a very fine climber or roof plant, where there is
plenty of room for it to grow ; and as its long handsome bell-
shaped and waxy-looking blooms are produced freely, it is of a
very ornamental character. To be done well, however, it requires
to be put out in a prepared border where plenty of room is afforded,
although decent plants can be done in pots if care is taken. They
are plants that dislike much sun, or a dry arid atmosphere, there-
fore the best plan is to grow them in a moist shady house, or on
a wall that is somewhat shaded, and as a rule the north wall of a
house suits them, well, that is, if the long straggling shoots are
allowed to ramble at pleasure, but if it is trained out in a stiff
formal manner, it does not display its pendulous bell- shaped
blooms to any great advantage. We think the best plant — or
rather the best half-dozen plants — we ever saw were grown in

224 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

an old vinery, wliere the roof was glazed with glass six inches
square only, and the laps were filled up with dirt. In fact,
it was essentially a "dark" house, which few cultivators would
care to possess. But for all that, the plants produced on
an average about 2000 blossoms each year, and they were
much admired by visitors, who prized a few cut blooms very
highly, as they retain their beauty for nearly a month, if
the water in which they are kept is changed from time
to time. To obtain the full amount of flowers, Lapagerias
should ramble at their own sweet will and pleasure, the only
training given consisting of the leading of the shoots in the
direction it is desired they shall go. It is nearly hardy in the
southern and midland counties, and at Messrs. Pince's nursery, in
Devonshire, it flourishes against a wall and blooms profusely. The
method of cultivation in pots is much the same as in borders,
except that the plant is more unmanageable, and therefore, where
it is possible, we should advise the use of a border. The same
treatment applies to pots as to borders. In all cases plenty
of root room must be afforded, and if the plants are tried
in pots, large ones must be used. In the event of cultiva-
tion in the border, the stations should be prepared as follows :
In the first place, excavate the soil to the depth of three
feet, and about four feet square, or a space of about the same
capacity, the depth in all cases being the same. A good exit
for superfluous water must be afforded, either by a drain or by
a layer of rubbish, but preferably by a drain. At the bottom
of the ^te put a layer, from six to twelve inches thick, of broken
porous bricks ; on this place turves of fibrous peat, not broken,
and fill the interstices with very coarse sand or broken pot-
sherds that will pass through a quarter-inch meshed sieve. Fill
in the hole with lumps of peat and loam, adding small quantities
of sharp sand as the work proceeds, so that a sufficient porosity
of the soil be kept thi-oughout. The soil must be lightly trodden,
and then the place is ready for the reception of the plant.
A good strong free-grown one is necessary to start with, and
this should be carefully planted without disturbing the roots.
This done, give a good watering to settle the soil around the
roots, and as soon as the plant begins to grow freely, supply

Dictionary of Plants. 225

water in greater abundance. Tlie best time to plant is when the
shoots commence growth, as they then take to their new quarters
more readily. The chief insects which attack Lapagerias are
thrips and a small white scale, both of which can be kept down
by applying Fowler's Insecticide at a strength of about 6oz.to
the gallon of clear water. Care must be taken not to break the
leaves, which are very brittle at the axils, as faded or dead
leaves do not enhance the beauty of any plant.

Propagated by layers of ripened wood of the present year's
growth pegged down for about twelve months before removal
from the parent plant.

The sorts are i. alba, L. rosea, and L. rosea splendens. The
white one is, however, rather expensive, the cost being from
£3 3s. to £5 5s. each for moderate-sized plants, whilst large
specimens fetch higher sums.

Lasiaudra. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. These plants are well
worth cultivating in places where it is desired to have a nice
selection; and although — like all others of the better sort —
they are rather more troublesome to grow than such as
geraniums, they fully repay the care bestowed on them.
They bloom in autumn and winter, and are, consequently,
of much value, as at those seasons blooming plants are naturally
scarce. The general appearance is like that of Pleroma elegans,
but bearing large saucer-shaped flowers of a bluish purple ; and
although they do not last long, the flowers open successionally,
and being from two to four inches in diameter, make a fine
display. In autumn select plants in 4in. or 6in. pots, and, after
wintering them, re-pot into Sin. pots in February. Choose
such as have been stopped at the third or fourth eye above
.the collar, and have four or five shoots, otherwise there will be
some difficulty in furnishing the bottoms. For soil, take either
loam or peat — the former preferably ; use a sufficiency of sharp
sand to keep the soil open, as this plant requires much water
whilst in a growing state, and also provide good drainage to
prevent sourness. Keep in a light position with a temperature
of 45deg. to 48deg. at night, and a little higher during the day.

226 Greenhouse Managetnent for Amateurs.

As tlie sun gains power give air in tlie fore part of tlie day,
and tlironglioiit tlie spring allow plenty of light. When the
snn becomes very powerful apply a little shade, and about the
end of June shift the plants into pots a couple of inches larger.
Before they are re-potted — say six weeks previously — it is a good
plan to stop the shoots, so as to maintain as bushy a habit as
possible, or it is probable that some of them will have to be cut
back, which means a loss of size in the plants. During the whole
of the growing season syi'inge the foliage in the afternoon, and
maintain a comparatively moist atmosphere, so that the growth
may be good ; and it is also necessary to tie out the shoots to
maintain an equal balance to the plants. If everything goes on
well, about the end of July nip out the points of the strongest
shoots, and in September gradually remove the shading, at the
same time keeping a drier atmosphere, to ripen off the wood.
Cease syi'inging, and give plenty of air, and by the end of the
year they will commence blooming, at which season they
should have a temperature of from 48deg. to 50deg. About
the end of the succeeding February cut back moderately, give
a shift into 12in. pots, and apply a similar treatment to that
recommended above, with the exception of the second potting.
Red spider sometimes attack Lasiandras, but these can be kept
in check by plentiful applications of clean water with the
syringe during the summer. Bro"s\Ti and white scale also
attack them ; for the foi-mer of which use " Fowler's Insecticide,"
about 6oz. to the gallon, and for the latter "Abyssinian Mix-
ture," 7oz. to the gallon, well brushed into the bark two or three
times while the plants are dormant.

Propagated from cuttings struck on a gentle bottom heat
or in a warm greenhouse.

L. Tnacrantha is, in our opinion, only suited for trellises or
walls, and for this purpose should be planted out into the
borders, or In large tubs or boxes, with much the same treat-
ment as that just described. It should be grown the first
year in pots, and then turned out into the borders. L. ma-
crantha is not so suitable for pot culture as L. macrantha
ftorihunda, which, with proper care, produces its blooms for some
weeks.

Dictionary of Plants.

227

Laiimstinxis. — See Yihurnum tinus.

Leucojum. — Hardy bulbous soft-
wooded plant. Grown for its flowers.
Minimura. temperature (in pots), 36deg.
These are early blooming bulbous plants,
of easy culture in the cold greenliouse,
and are somewhat similar in appear-
ance to tbe snowdrop, but tbey are much,
taller, and, as shown in Fig. 84, the form
of the blooms is more globular. The cul-
ture is the same as for Anthericum, with
a free sandy loam for soil and plenty of
drainage.

The plants are not well suited to other
than the cold house, and, therefore, forcing
should not be attempted.

Propagated by the division of the bulbs,
which increase naturally.

The sorts we have grown are L. cesti-
vum, L. pulchellum, and L. venium (see
Fig. 84), all of which are white.

Fig. 84.— Leucojum
Vernxtm.

Leucophyta. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its silvery foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is
useful alike for greenhouse decoration and for bedding-out
purposes, and, from its colour, is a very desirable acquisition to
the stock of plants grown. It is of a peculiar silvery white;
the growth is quick and slender, presenting the appearance
of some marine plant rather than one belonging to the land;
and it is not at all easy to describe. The stems appear to
branch and ramify at will, apparently bearing no foliage ; but
if closely examined they will be found to be thickly set with
long narrow leaves. It is not very difficult to propagate,
cuttings taken in August striking freely. "We grow it in the
same manner as the Lantana, using the same soil, and we
find that it does well with such treatment. The only variety
with which we are acquainted is L. Brownii.

228 Greenhouse Manacrement for Amateurs.

Propagated by means of short-wooded cuttings struck in
the greenhouse or close frame in August.

Lilium. — Hardy bulbous soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 38deg. The only
one of the Lilies proper that we consider worth cultivating
under glass is L. auratum, or the Golden-Rayed Lily of Japan
(Fig. 85), as it is sometimes called. In a spacious house one
or two large clumps look well and diffuse a fine perfume, but
too many must not be used, or the scent will be too powerful
and cause a feeling of nausea each time the house is entered.
The way we cultivate these plants is as follows : As soon as
we can procure the roots or bulbs we put them into pots of
suflScient size for the purpose required, generally 12in. or 14in.
In these we put about two inches of crocks, and on this, again,
about the same quantity of compost. We then place the bulb
or bulbs on this soil, allowing at the rate of one blooming
crown to each two inches in diameter of the pot, whether the
crowns are in one or several roots or bulbs. On the bulbs
we lay about two inches of soil, pressed down moderately firm.
The pots are then placed in a cold frame with a bottom of
coal ashes, and no water is given until the plants begin to
throw up the flower spikes, when a good soaking is administered.
When the spikes are about six inches high, another two inches
of rough soil is applied; and when the roots appear above
this the pots are filled up, as, by this method, we find that
much finer blooms are produced. As the stems increase in
height, liquid manure is given occasionally with advan-
tage, and they are neatly trained out with stakes just
strong enough to bear the weight of the head of bloom.
During the whole of the time the plants are growing they
are kept as close to the glass as possible, and given the
largest amount of air that can be consistently allowed. In
fact, it is far better to grow the plants in the frame until
the end of May, and then only cover in case oE frost. As
soon as the foliage dies off we re-pot the roots and treat them
as before described. And here let us draw attention to the
fact that there are no roots to beat those grown at home.

Dictionary of Plants.

229

alttougli tliey may be more expensive ; for home-grown bulbs
always retain tbe thick, fleshy roots at the base, which are
absent in imported samples; and this makes a vast difference
in the beauty of the flowers. For compost there is nothing
better than pure fibrous maiden loam, to which is added enough

Fig. 85.— Ijilium Auratum.

Band to maintain a porosity admitting the free passage of
water. The soil should be roughly chopped up, so as to pass
through a two-inch meshed sieve.

Propagated by the natural division of the roots.

There are two sorts we use, viz., h. auratum, the Golden-

230 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

rayed, and li. ruhrum vittatum, the Red-rayed Lily. There are
several different forms in botli these, and therefore if one comes
across a taking flower it is as "well to secure the root, but if
imported roots are purchased various forms of flowers vnll be
obtained. Several of the other Lilies can, however, be tried in
a cold house, L. speciosum, L. Humholdtii, and L. Leitchlinii,
and some others being suitable for the trial; but, as a rule,
unless the house is large, but little success will be obtained.

Lily of the Valley. — Hardy, herbaceous, soft -wooded plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots),

36deg. The Lily of the
Yalley, or Convallaria ma-
jalis (Fig. 86), is in much
demand during the early
part of the season, but it
is rarely to be found grown
in a proper manner in the
hands of the amateur. It
must be remembered that
the plants will not bear
forcing, as the term is
generally employed, but a
little coaxing must be re-
sorted to if they are re-
quired early. A compost
of leaf soil and mellow loam
in equal proportions, to
which has been added a
sufficient quantity of sharp
sand to render the whole
sufficiently permeable to the
water that is applied, suits
the plants very well for the
time they are in the pots,
for, after they have ceased
blooming, they must be
Whether prepared clumps or

Fig. 86.— Lily of the Valley
(Laxge Berlin variety) .

turned into the open ground.

Dictionary of Plants. 231

single crowns are used, it matters but little in tlie results
obtained if tbe treatment is of a rational cliaracter, and, indeed,
many persons are of opinion that tlie single crowns, if carefully
selected, are tlie best. Suffice it to say tbat we have found but
little difference in the two methods of preparing the roots. As
soon as the roots can be obtained, they should be potted into
four or six-inch pots, according to the display required and the
size of the roots. The crowns should be just covered with soil
to the depth that they are covered when growing naturally, and
after potting the plants may be stood in a dark and moderately
warm place till the shoots get about three inches long, when
they should be gradually introduced to the light to get the
colour into the foliage and to open the blooms of a good size
and colour. The plants may also be potted up and placed under
the stage in the greenhouse, and when started removed to the
light, to grow and bloom. In the cold house but little trouble
is necessary, as they will only bloom about a week or so before
their natural season. A temperature of about 45deg. is quite
high enough if a good head of flowers is desired, but an addi-
tional five degrees may be allowed as the foliage becomes fully
expanded, as the flowers will open more freely in a temperature
of about 50deg. Water must be given as required ; but it must
be remembered that while plenty of water is necessary at some
stages of the growth of the plants, if too much is given the soil
will become water-logged and totally unfit for the growth of
these subjects, and as a natural consequence they will fail, and
probably rot off. After blooming, the plants should be turned
into a border of maiden loam and leaf soil in about equal
parts, and plenty of water should be given through the hot dry
weather. Fresh lots of crowns must be potted each year if a
good show of bloom is required, as the plants rarely bloom the
second season in pots.

Propagated by division of the crowns.

The varieties used are — Convallaria majalis, single white, the
best for ordinary work; C. m. Jlore pleno, double white ; 0. m.
rosea, rose ; C. m. foliis marginatis, and C. m. foliis striatis, both
hrving variegated foliage, and bearing white flowers.

In Fig. 87 we show a one-year-old crown, which produces

232 Greenhouse Managefnent for Amateurs.

leaves only; in Fig. 88 a two-year-old crown, which is a doubtful

Fig. 87.— One-teak-old Crown.

Fig. 88.— Two-tear-old Crown.

Fig. 89.— Three-tear-old Crown.

bloom-producer ; and in Fig. 89 a three-year-old crown, which is
sure to produce bloom under proper treatment.

Dictionary of Plants.

233

Lobelia.; — Half-liardy perennial soft-wooded plant. Grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 35deg. This class,
whicli is rather large, is generally represented in most gardens
by the ordinary blue Ij. speciosa, and its varieties, and it is
chiefly used as an edging plant. Sometimes the hardy L. car-
dinalis (Fig. 90) is employed in the herbaceous borders, but

Fig. 90.— Lobelia Cardinalis.

this is not so often used now as it ought to be. Of these
latter, however, we are not now treating; but rather of the
sorts which have to be grown under glass for at least some
part of the year,

Nearly everyone is acquainted with some of the varieties of
L. speciosa, and to these dwarf bedding plants we will first
direct attention. There are two ways of propagation which

234 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

are in general use, and tlie first of these is raising from seeds.
Before attempting to raise a good stock of reliable plants
from seeds, care should be taken to have new seed, and that,
too, saved from a good strain of plants, otherwise disap-
pointment is sure to ensue. Premising the seed is as it should
be, the next point is to prepare some pots of rich soil on which
to sow it ; at least two inches of drainage should be allowed to
a 4in. pot, and the soil should not come to within half-an-
inch of the top. These should now be stood in a tub of water,
but this must not be allowed to overflow into the top of
the pots, and when the soil is well soaked they should be
placed aside for an hour to drain. A small portion of clean
seed should then be taken on the point of a penknife, and, bv
a dexterous puff with the breath, distributed over the surface of
the soil. No soil should be put on the seeds, but each pot
should be covered with a sheet of glass, the pots having been
first placed in a brisk bottom heat, or in a greenhouse where a
temperature of 60deg. to 65deg. is maintained. When the
plants are sufficiently large to handle they should be trans-
planted at about an inch apart in other pots, and when large
enough they should be re-potted into thumbs for use, and
gradually hardened off as the season advances. The second plan
is to cut down old plants in August, and, when they have broken
freely, pot them up and place in a cold frame until the weather
becomes too damp, and then take them into the greenhouse for
the winter. In February the tops may be taken off and struck
m heat, and if a warm temperature be given to the old plants
they will produce a large number of cuttings, which may in
their turn be struck, and a large stock of plants be made. The
cuttings, when struck, should be treated the same as seedlings.

Double Lobelias should be struck in gentle heat in January,
or in a shaded position in August, and wintered in a cool house.
In February they should be re-potted into Sin. pots, and as the
pots become full of roots (not pot-bound) shifted again into 4in.
or Gin. pots, as the size of the plants require. By keeping them
near the glass in a well- ventilated house until April, and then
transferring to a cold frame, all the time paying attention to
the wants of the plants as regards watering, &c., giving plenty

Dictionary of Plants. 235

of air, but avoiding heavy rains, good pots of bloom will be had.
It is, however, practically useless to plant these Lobelias out
unless for the supply of cuttings, as they only make a good
display for a short time, and then they are done for the season.
A good soil for them is maiden loam three parts, rotten manure
one part, and sufficient sharp sand to maintain the proper
porosity of the soil.

There is a fine Lobelia very suitable for the decoration of the
greenhouse — li. suhnuda — a species with foliage much re-
sembling some of the Anoectochili. It is one which, although
not of very large size, is still extremely useful as a choice
decorative plant, especially if small gems are desired for any
special purpose. It is a native of Mexico, and, therefore, does
best in the greenhouse. The plants form tufts about four
inches, or a trifle more, in diameter, and the leaves are ovate,
about an inch long. They are serrated at the margins, of a
brownish-purple colour, the midrib and veins being bright
green, thus forming a very elegant contrast. The under
surface of the leaves is deep purple, while the flowers — which
are produced freely on stems about six inches high — are of a
very pale blue, but do not add much to the beauty of the plant.
It is, therefore, a good plan to remove them as soon as they
appear, unless seed is required, and then a spike or two may be
left, as the plant seeds freely. The way we grow this plant is to
sow seeds in April in a broad pan of sandy loam, distributing
them thinly and evenly, and, when the plants are large
enough, pricking each one into the centre of a 4in. pot. They
are then carefully brought on in a warm position near the
glass, but shaded from sun. With care in watering they soon
get a good size and commence to bloom. If preferred, the
seedlings may be placed in small pots at first, and then re-
potted, and perhaps they will do better thus than as we do
them. For soil we use fibrous, sandy loam, enriched with a
little thoroughly-decayed manure, to which some sand has been
added to ensure the proper amount of porosity. L. suhnuda is
also sold as L. jpicta, but the former is the correct name.
Propagated by seeds or cuttings as described above.
For sorts of sing:le varieties selection should be made from

236 Greenhouse Manage?nent for Afnateurs,

tlie following : L. speciosa (true), L. pumila grandljlora, L.
pumila magnifica, L. speciosa compacta, Brilliant, Henderson's
Lustrous, Celestial Blue, Blue Boy, and Carter's Cobalt Blue,
all various shades of blue. There are white varieties, but, "with
the exception of "White Perfection and Duchess of Edinburgh
for pot work, we do not recommend them. Of doubles, we think
that L. pumila Jl. ^3?. is the best, as culture more than variety
causes size and doubleness in the blooms.

Iiuculia. — Greenhouse hard- wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is one of the old-
fashioned sweet-scented plants that is now much out of cultiva-
tion, not because it is inferior to the new plants, or because it is
not worth growing, but simply because it is somewhat out of
fashion. As it is rather difficult of propagation, the best plan is
to purchase fair-sized plants in autumn or early spring, and grow
them on. We prefer to have the plants in 6in. or Sin. pots to
start with, unless there is a regular gardener to attend to them,
when, of course, the case is different. AYe have found that a
somewhat similar treatment to that described for the Hovea
answers well, with a compost of fibrous loam, peat, and silver
sand. Good drainage must be afforded, as stagnant water is
sure to stop growth. Shading from bright sun in summer and
maintaining a moderately warm temperature during winter will
cause the production of the magnificent cymes of pink hydran-
gea-like tubular flowers, which are often a foot across, in its
season. The best place for Luculias is in the beds or borders
of a consei-vatory where they have plenty of room to grow.
With care they will make magnificent j)lants in the course of
years. Insects are rather partial to the foliage, therefore it is
necessary to keep a good look out for them, and destroy them
as soon as seen, but, let the drawbacks of this sort be what
they may, the plant is well worth cultivating.

Dictionary of Plants,

237

ESEMBRYANTHEMUM. —Half hardy
succulent plant, grown for its foliage.
Minimum temperature, 36deg. These suc-
culent plants are very useful in many
places, both for bedding out and other
purposes, and some of them do not look bad in
pots, but it is impossible to describe them in our
limited space. "We grow all of them in the same
manner, and with great success, there being only one way of
doing them well. The great secret of success we consider to
consist in exposure to the full sun at all times, and not potting
in too rich a soil, a compost of lime, rubbish, yellow loam, sand
and cow manure, in equal proportions, suiting them well. The
way we grow them is as follows : In March we either sow seed&
in a little bottom heat, or strike cuttings in a position fully
exposed to the sun, and when these are of a sufficient size we
prick off into small pots, from which we shift them into 4in.
pots when large enough, or transfer to the open ground if
intended for bedding purposes. The whole of the time the
plants remain in the most exposed part of the house, and are
not over- watered, and in due season they make fine specimens.
It is not, of course, intended that they shall perish for want
of water, but what we would imply is that water is only given
when really required, a saturated soil not being desirable for
their well-being. Mesembryanthemums are best struck the
same as cacti, i.e., the cuttings inserted in dry sand and exposed
to the sun till rooted, which operation takes place in a few
days. "When rooted some moisture may be applied, and, when
potted off, the general routine may be followed.
Propagated by seeds or cuttings, as described above.
The following sorts are very interesting, either for pot culture
or for planting out on rockwork during the summer months : M.
conspicitw)^, mauve pink blooms; M. lupinum, yellow blooms;
M. tigrinum, curious foliage; M. echinatum, curious foliage
(Fig. 91) ; and M. cordifolium variegatum, creamy variegation,.

Dictionary of Plants, 239

rose-coloured blooms. As in tliese plants form varies so much,
and as the chief beauty lies in the grotesque character of the
foliage, it is impossible to describe the best, for what one
person would admire others would be indi:fferent to ; therefore
we advise our readers to see a collection before purchasing
largely. There are over fifty varieties grown by Mr. "VYare, of
Tottenham, and he does not, we believe, cultivate the whole of
those grown.

Miguouette. — Half-hardy soft-wooded annual. Grown for
its inflorescence. Minimum temperature, 45deg. This odorous
plant, which is, as a rule, grown as an annual, blooms throughout
the winter months if treated as a perennial. There are several
modes of growing the plants for this purpose, but we shall give
our own system.

In the first place, never attempt to transplant mignonette,
or failure is almost sure to result, as it is an extremely
difficult matter to successfully transplant things of this sort,
which, as a rule, make but few fibrous roots. The best plan
is to select the blackest seeds from a packet, and to sow two
of these (a slight distance apart) in small 60-sized pots, and when
up strongly to remove the weaker plant, and allow the other
to remain. The time to sow is March, or early in April, and
a little bottom heat should be used to start the plants. As
soon as the pots become filled with roots, but not pot-bound,
shift into Sin. pots, and continue shifting as necessary, until
the second week in September, when the final shift should be
given. During the hot weather the plants should stand on a
bed of coal ashes, in a north-east aspect, and should be kept
supplied with water, on no account being allowed to become
dry, or the foliage will get rusty, and the wood hard, and all
labour lost. After the last potting has been given in September,
the plants should be removed to a light airy greenhouse, and
should be placed near the glass, but care taken not to neglect
watering, or the destruction of green fly. The flower buds
must also be pinched out for the last time, and after this
all blooms may be allowed to open. A temperature of about
45deg. to 50deg. will cause the plants to bloom well and freely.

240 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

To this end it is also advantageous to give occasional waterings
with sulphate of ammonia, as this induces bloom.

For soil use two-thirds turfy loam, one part leaf soil, and
one part road grit, with just enough sand to maintain the
necessary porosity. Plenty of drainage must be afforded, and
the plant must be neatly staked.

Another plan is to sow seeds in July or August, keeping
the plants in a cool north aspect, and by having about three
or four in a Gin. pot, and giving liberal treatment, they can be
had in bloom from November till after Christmas, or even later,
but, of course, much depends on the season.

Propagated by seeds as described above.

Amongst the many sorts, we have found the following good
in practice: Crimson Giant, Parson's New White, Parson's
Hybrid Giant, New Dwarf Compact, and Pyramidal Bouquet,
all of which are distinct, good, and have some speciality in
growth or colour, which, although scarcely worth describing
at length, is still of enough note to render the plants sufficiently
distinct while growing. As a rule we should advise the use
of the whole of the sorts enumerated, and then a good show
could be maintained.

Mimulns. — Hardy soft- wooded perennial plant. Grown for
its flowers. l^Iinimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. These
are nearly hardy, very ornamental plants, from a foot to two
feet in height, and bearing large, somewhat flaccid, flowers of an
open tubular form, and of varied colour, and are also of very
easy culture. The best amongst them are Clapham's and
Henderson's strains, which, though unnamed, are of very great
excellence, and we always grow them in preference to named
varieties, on account of obtaining a finer show from them.
We sow twice in the year, in October and April, using a little
bottom heat to get the plants up. When large enough to
handle, we transplant into Gin. pots, about twelve in a pot,
and those sown in October remain thus until February, while
those' sown in March remain only until of sufficient strength
to be transferred to single pots. If desired they can be
transferred to thumb pots at once, and remain in these until

Dictionary of Plants.

241

the roots kiss the sides of the pots, when they should be trans-
ferred to- Gin. pots, and if large plants be required, from these
they should be again transferred to Sin. pots, where, if proper
care has been taken, they will make plants from 18in. to 2ft.
high. As with musk, however, it is necessary to give them a
position facing the north during the hot weather, and a large
amount of water — in fact, they
require very liberal treatment.
For soil we use leaf mould
one part, cow manure one part,
good maiden loam two parts,
and sand one part, and we put
at least a couple of inches of
crocks in the bottom of each
pot. As the pots get filled
with roots we stand them in
saucers of water, and apply
liquid manure once or twice a
week.

Propagated from seeds, or
by division of the stolon-like
roots in spring.

The strains of Mimulus we
mentioned above vary in hue
from white, yellow, brown,
maroon, &c., to almost black,
and the flowers are beautifully
spotted with tints very dif-
ferent from the ground colour,
thus making very striking
contrasts. The plants are
bushy, and are from a foot to two feet in height ; the appearance
may be gathered from the engraving (Fig. 92), which shows
only one flowering branch.

As, however, some of our readers might fancy a few named
sorts, we give the names of half-a-dozen which we have gi*own
ourselves : Attraction, large scarlet, yellow throat, spotted with
crimson; Constellation, canary yellow, deep crimson spots and

FiGt. 92.— Mimulus Varieoatus.

242 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

blotclies; Goliali, clear yellow, ricKly spotted with crimson,
very fine ; Illustration, yellow ground, crimson lobes, very large
and fine ; Regulator, cream ground and margin, ruby crimson
blotcb.es, very fine; Regulus, deep crimson, canary spots and
band; zpaAM.aXhMs-elegantissimus, creamy
wHte ground, crimson blotched lobes, and
plum-coloured margins. These are all
most excellent in form and markings,
and offer an inexhaustible store for the
supply of seeds, but a packet of either
Henderson's or Clapham's strain would
be found to give quite as good results.

Muscari. — Hardy bulbous soft-wooded
plants. Grown for their flowers. Mini-
mum temperature (in pots), 36deg. The
Grape Hyacinths are pretty bulbous
plants, of dwarf growth, in habit some-
what like the scilla, blooming rather
early in the season, and in the cold house
making a nice show, but at times being
a month earlier than their fellows out
of doors. The colours range from white
to purple, and are of very pleasing tints.
The culture is rather simple, as they will
do well if treated in the same manner as
galanthus. The plants must not, how-
ever, be kept too wet, as they are liable
to decay, and it is also necessary that
plenty of di-ainage be afforded for the
same reason. A rich sandy soil, or a com-
post of sandy loam and a little thoroughly
decayed leaf soil to which some sharp
sand has been added, suits the plants
well, and as they are not so good in pots
the second year, the chief point is to obtain the best possible
effect the first season. After blooming it is a good plan to plant
the roots in a prepared border of rich sandy soil, and let them

Pig. 93.— Muscari

COMOSUM.

Dictionary of Plants. 243

have a season's rest, and then they can be taken up and potted
again, when a large increase will also be obtained. The bulbs
are, however, cheap, and unless there is plenty of room out-
doors, it is not worth while to save the bulbs for potting
again.

Propagated by division of the bulbs, which increase naturally.

The varieties are — -M. hoti-yoides, blue; M. h. album, white;
M. h. carneum, flesh; M. h. pallidum, white; M. comosum,
purple (Fig. 93); M. c. atro-cceruleum, dark blue; M. c. monstrosum,
blue; M. moschatiim,lohie and yellow; M. pulchellum, hlue ; M.
racemosum and M. r. major, blue.

Musk. — Hardy soft-wooded perennial plant. Grown for its
flowers and scented foliage. Minimum temperature (in pots),
35deg. Musk, or, more properly speaking, Mimnlus moschatus,
is a good old-fashioned plant, welcome alike in both mansion
and cottage. Of course, all our readers are acquainted with the
plant, therefore it needs no description ; but the method of culti-
vation is quite another matter. To have a fine pot of Musk is
generally everyone's ambition, and if the simple rules we give
are followed, fair success, if not perfection itself, will be
attained. In the cultivation of Musk, that is, if fine growth
is desired, a somewhat shaded position should be chosen, and
it is also desirable that no fierce sun rays should drop
across the plants at any time, or the foliage will have a rusty,
faded appearance. It is therefore better to grow them in
a place having a north aspect during the summer, and as the
sun loses power to bring them to the warmer side of the house.
The way we manage the plants is as follows : In January some
roots are introduced into a warm position in the greenhouse,
and as soon as they break freely the young plants are potted off,
about five in a 6in. pot, with rich, fairly open compost ; plenty
of drainage is also afforded, as they require an almost
unlimited supply of water during the growing season. The
young plants are then stood in a wann, somewhat moist
position, and at once commence growth. As soon as they are
about 2in. high they are stopped back, and this causes them to
branch freely. Sticks are inserted round the sides of the pot at

244 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

an early stage of the plants' orrowtli, and tliey are tlius
kept in a good form for a long time. About tlie first week
in Marcli, June, and August we also put in cuttings, and
treat as before described, and thus have Musk in good order
all the year round, which is not possible unless this practice is
adhered to.

Propagated by seeds, cuttings, and division of the roots, as
described above.

We are acquainted with only one species of Musk, M. mos-
chatus. There are also varieties called the Giant Musk {M. m.
gigantea) and Harrison's Giant Musk {M. m. Harrisonii), but
these, we suspect, are only improved forms of the common
species, and do not differ from the type, except in size.

Myosotis. — Hardy perennial soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. The Myosotis,
or Forget-me-not, is a plant of which many persons are very fond,
and certainly the flowers, and, in fact, the whole plant, are very
pretty. It has only one fault, and that is the inducement it
offers to the aphides, which prefer the sub-aquatic to any other
plant, with the exception of the herbaceous calceolaria. M.
dissitifiora is the best kind for general cultivation, as it does
not need such vast supplies of water as does the sub-aquatic
section, and, moreover, the colour is more pleasing. The habit
of the plant is also more compact and suited to the use of pots
for its culture. Frames should be prepared with a moderately
rich sandy soil in September, into which plants raised from
seeds sown in August should be pricked out about six inchea
apart. Treated in the same manner as other hardy plants in
frames, they will remain until March, when they can be care-
fully taken up with a good ball of earth adhering to the roots,.
and potted into 4<in. pots. They should be carefully but.
thoroughly watered, and returned to the frames for about
a month, or until such time as the flower stems are thrown
up, and then they should be transferred to the cold house,,
where, with ordinary attention, they will bloom for a consider-
able time.

Propagated by cuttings or by seeds, as described above.

Dictionary of Plants. 245

Myrsiphyllum. — Greenhouse climber. Grown for its elegant
foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This elegant small-
leaved climber is one of the plants whicb no amateur should
be without, especially if he has any taste in vase or other
table decorations. In the greenhouse it is also of great
value, its extreme neatness rendering it useful for various
pui'poses where larger and more striking plants are quite
out of place. The Myrsiphyllum is very extensively used
in America, where its beauties are far more appreciated
than they are here ; and a friend, writing from Boston,
U.S.A., says that large houses are there devoted to this
plant alone, and that immense quantities of the cut plants
(we know no other term) are sent to Philadelphia and
New York. The way they grow it in America is as
follows: From July to September the roots are planted
(indoors) in prepared beds of light rich soil from 1ft. to
18in. deep, and with a good amount of drainage below. One
or two good waterings are given, and the plants are soon
started, and grow rapidly away, so that in three months
they are ready for cutting, that is, if they have been properly
hardened oil* during the latter part of their growth. Each vine
is trained up a single string, and when the time arrives it is
cut, and the string being severed at top and bottom is slipped
out, leaving the vine perfect. After this first cutting, more
heat is applied, and treatment being given as before, in about
three or four months the crop is again ready. During June
and July rest is induced by nearly withholding water and by
maintaining a cooler atmosphere ; and then it can be started
early in August, to finish off by Christmas. During the whole
period of growth plenty of water must be given, and clear liquid
manure must also be applied about twice a week; the plants
being gross root feeders, this is absolutely necessary.

We have grown Myrsij^hylluin asparagoides in pots, and by
the method recommended by a friend who has travelled in the
States. Our plan is the same as that given above, so far as
soil and time of planting are concerned; but, as the plants
are in pots, variations have to be made. In the first place,
we plant from four to six roots in a large pot, and treat as

246 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

before described, but apply liquid manure wben tbe plants are
in full growth, at least tkree times a week. The growth is
gradually hardened off when it has attained the height of from
four to six feet, and consequently it is then ready for use for
decorative purposes. The chief rules for the culture of this
plant are warmth, liberal treatment, plenty of water, early and
continuous training, and hardening off before cutting the vines
for decorative purposes.

Propagated by seeds, cuttings, and division of the roots.

The sorts we grow are as follow : J-i". asparagoides, M. longi-
folium, M. variegatum, and M. gracillimum, all of them being
very useful for baskets, &c., but, with the exception of M.
asparagoides, of little use for cutting.

Myrtle. — Half-hardy hard- wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers and scented foliage. Minimum temperature, 3odeg.
In nearly all cases these are to be found in the greenhouses of

amateurs, whether large or small,
and it is too often the case that
while the plants produce foliage
they are quite devoid of bloom.
This is much to be regretted, as a
well-bloomed myrtle is a very pretty
object, not to mention the useful-
ness of the cut blooms. The scent
of both foliage and blooms is very
grateful to most persons, and hence
the plant is much sought after.
In the south and south-west of
England myrtles are practically
hardy, and bloom pretty well out
of doors, but in less favoured po-
sitions they have to be protected
duiing winter, or they are very liable
to be destroyed by frost. Myrtles
form bushy specimens from a foot
to three feet high, and the small, shiny, laurel-like leaves, about
an inch long, set off the white flowers, which are shown in Fig. 94,

a^;:)U

Fig. 94.— FLOWERiNa Sprat of
Mtrtle.

Dictionary of Plants.

247

to great advantage. The plants do well in a compost of loam,
sand, and leaf soil, with potting moderately firm, but not so
hard as with azaleas, or fibrous rooted plants of that de-
scription ; and by keeping them in a cool house, and attending
to their wants as regards watering, aeration, &c., they will
bloom well. The plants may stand out of doors throughout the
summer, but must be prevented from becoming dry at the
roots, or they will not bloom. During the growing season
plenty of water will be found needful, and just a trifling shade
during the hottest part of the day will be an advantage, although
if the pots are plunged in the border it is not really necessary.

Propagated by cuttings of the current year's ripe wood
inserted in pots of sandy soil in a greenhouse, or in a frame
where frost is kept out.

For sorts, we prefer Myrtus buUata, M. communis, M. c: angus-
tifolia, M. c.flore pleno, and M. c. latifolia, all of which are good.

ARCISSUS.— Hardy, bulbous, soft-wooded
plant. Grown for its flowers. Minimum
temperature (in pots), 36deg. The Polyan-
thus Narcissus {N. Tazetta — Fig. 95) and
the jonquil (JV. Jonquilla) are both extremely
useful for decorative purposes, and stand
forcing well. They are also most useful in the
cool house, as the extremely bright coloured flowers
and fine scent render them objects of general
admiration. The culture varies but little from that of hyacinths,
but, perhaps, it had better be described. In the first place, it ia
desirable that the bulbs — foreign by preference — should be had
as early in the season as possible, and it is then a good nile to
divide them into two lots, the first to be potted off at once, and
the others to be kept in a cool place until the middle of October,
when they should be potted up. When potted, they should

248 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

be put in a dark place, or under a bed of cocoa fibre for a
few weeks — say from four to six — and tbence tbey should be
removed to tbe warm or cold bouse as occasion or season should
require, and, if placed in a light position near the glass, the

plants will bloom well, and throw
up spikes of flowers without draw-
ing to too great an extent. The
amount of water required will, of
course, depend on the degree
of development, as we have
frequently mentioned before, and
aeration will depend on the wea-
ther; but where it is possible to
admit air with comparative free-
dom the plants will thi-ive much
better. A good rich sandy soil is
requisite, and plenty of drainage
must be given, as vitality will
fail should the soil become water-
logged or sour, and, therefore, all
necessary precautions should be
taken to prevent this. As the bulbs are only good for one year's
pot work, as soon as they have done blooming they should be
planted out in a sheltered border, or in the fronts of rhodo-
dendron and other beds, where, after a season's rest, and, if
left undisturbed, they will from time to time produce very
acceptable blooms for bouquets, &c.

Propagated by division of the bulbs, which increase naturally.
The sorts or varieties we have found to answer best are
Grand Soleil d'Or, yellow, orange cup; Queen of the Nether-
lands, white, yellow cup; Grand Primo Citronnier, white
Grand Monarque, white, pale yellow cup; and Lord Canning,
yellow. Paper white, pure white, and the early Poman double
white and yellow are all so easy to grow that anyone can grow
them. We have not grown, but we have seen, Bazelman major,
a fine white, and Bouquet Triomphant, in fine form ; and perhaps
the above will be as good a selection of the 1^. Tazetta section
as can be had for amateur use. Of Jonquils, the ordinary double

Fig. 95.— Narcissus Tazetta
(Polyanthus Naecissus).

Dictionary of Plants. 249

yellow, single, and Campemelli are tlie three best, and grown
as above directed tliey are sure to give satisfaction.

Xerine. — Greenhouse, bulbous soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. It is a section of
Amaryllis, and is quite hardy on some soils ; but as a rule, the
bulbs are grown in pots for conservatory decoration. The
botanical name is Nerine, and the name of the Guernsey Lily is
N. Sarniensis. There are, however, other Nerines that are
worth the same care as the Guernsey Lily, a list of which we
give, and bearing, as they do, large trusses of open Amaryllis-
like flowers, they should be in every collection. The culture is
extremely simple ; the plants growing in a good light rich sandy
loam, a fair amount of drainage being afforded, as a matter of
course.

Procure the bulbs early in September, and pot at once, say,
three in a 6in. pot ; place the pots on a front shelf in the green-
house, or in a frame, near the glass, where they can receive
plenty of light and air. Keep the soil fairly moist, and growth
will at once commence. The flower spikes should be neatly
staked, and, as soon as the blooms are well advanced, give plenty
of water, and place the plants in a dry, cool, and airy position.
As the bulbs are comparatively expensive, it is desirable to keep
them for successive years ; but as this cannot be done if they
are starved, it is necessary that they should be re-planted.
The best plan is to have some boxes a foot or thirteen inches
deep, and of a size that is convenient to move about — claret
cases, for instance — and, after providing for sufficient drainage,
have ready some sandy loam chopped fine, but not sifted. Then,
after blooming, turn the plants carefully out of the pots, and
place each individual bulb about six inches from its neighbour ;
water gently, to settle the soil around the roots, and place
in a situation where a temperature of 40deg. can be maintained,
and plenty of air can be given on mild days. The same treat-
ment should then be given as that which is generally afforded
to greenhouse plants. When the foliage begins to fade, the
water should be gradually discontinued, and, when ripe, the
bulbs should be stored away until the next planting season.

250 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Propagated by division of the bulbs, whicb increase naturally,
but tbe young bulbs will have to be grown on for a year or two
ere they bloom.

For sorts, select from, the following : 'N. corusca, bright
scarlet ; N. flexuosa, pale rose ; N. Fothergillii, vermilion scarlet ;
N. pudica, white ; N. rosea, rosy red ; N. Sarniensis, rose
crimson ; N. undulata, lilac rose ; and N. venusta, crimson.

Nerium. — Greenhouse hard- wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature, 40deg.
This is a class of old-fashioned plants that is of much beauty.
They afford very useful semi-double rose-like blooms for
cutting for bouquets or table decoration, and these are very
serviceable on the plant itself, as they are produced in terminal
clusters on the ends of the branches of the previous year's
growth. There is no reason why they should not be grown
more extensively than they are, either as large or small plants,
but they should not exceed 4ft. in height. In the latter case,
however, a pretty brisk heat is required to do them well, and
that method is, of course, out of place here, but, at the same
time, good serviceable plants can be grown by ordinary treat-
ment. We will begin with cuttings. These, as a rule, cannot
be struck in the same way as geraniums and similar plants, but
require a rather peculiar procedure. The method is as follows :
As soon as the young growth is matured, take cuttings about
Gin. or 7in. in length, and insert them singly in bottles of water,
to each of which a teaspoonful of powdered wood charcoal
has been added ; place the bottles in a house where the
temperature is about 60deg. to TOdeg., and let them remain
until pretty well rooted ; then carefully pot them off into small
pots in a compost of loam and river sand in equal parts, first
putting in plenty of drainage. Keep in a wai*m place, and
they will soon get established. The following April the plants
should have a size larger pot, and should be grown on in a
warm house, and they will bloom towards the end of the year
But it is not this style of work that, as a rule, the amateur can
do, and, therefore, the better way is to grow the plants in large
tubs, or planted out in the house, but this latter plan can

Dictionary of Plants.

251

seldom be carried out. In growing the Oleander (Fig. 96) in
pots, these should be increased in size as the plants grow,
and the soil should be good sound loam and sand. During the
growing season plenty of water should be given, both at the
roots and the tops, but, at the same
time, care must be taken to avoid
the water at the roots becoming
stagnant, or disease and death will
be the result. No shade is at any
time required, and, in fact, the
warmest and sunniest spot in the
house should be chosen for it. It
is a very good plan to stand the
plants out of doors from the mid-
dle or end of May until the end of
September, but it is not absolutely
necessary to do so.

Propagated by cuttings struck
as above, or in a brisk bottom heat,
in wbich case ripe wood of the
current year's growth is taken and

inserted in peaty soil, the pots being plunged in the fibre bed in
a proper propagatiug pit.

The best sorts are 'Nerium splendens, N. s. album plenum, N. s.
luteum plenum, and iV". s. variegatum. The last is, however,
more conspicuous for its leaves than its flowers. There are also
some with single flowers, but these we do not give, as they are
not so good as those named.

Fio. 96.— Oleander (Neeiuii).

ITicotiana. — Half-hardy annual. Grown for its foliage and
general appearance. Minimum temperature, 45deg. Tobacco,
although, most suited for outdoor decoration, is still worthy of
a place indoors, if it can be had in bloom in tlie winter or
spring months, and, as the plants are of stately appearance,
having ovate leaves from Gin. to 15in. in length in the different
varieties, they contrast well with the more dwarf stock of the
soft- wooded plants that usually occupy the house of the ama-
teur horticulturist. The seeds can be sown in April in a green-

252 Greenhouse Management for Ainateurs,

liouse in the ordinary manner, and as soon as fhe plants are
large enough to handle they should be potted off into small
pots, and from, these they should be transferred into forty -
eights. As soon as these become full of roots it is necessary
to pot oif into 6in. or Sin. pots, and in these they will remain.
The plants should be kept in a partly shaded position, so that

they do not show bloom until
September or later, and about the
end of September they should be
removed into a light house, where
the temperature is not lower than
45deg. in winter. Great care must
be taken that the foliage is kept
clear from insects, for if the green
caterpillar that is so common in
the latter part of summer once
obtains a good hold of the plants,
the foliage will be spoiled, and
the whole beauty lost. For soil
use equal parts of loam, leaf soil,
and cow manure and sharp sand,
mixed; give plenty of drain-
age and supply such water as is
necessary.

Propagated by seeds, as de-
scribed above.

The best sort for the purpose
is "N. macropJiylla gigantea, a good
rosy pink ; but at the same time
N. Virginica, pink, N. grandiflora
purpurea, purple, and N. affinis,
white and sweet-scented, are veiy good. As most persons
know, the fine foliage of the above Tobaccos renders them
very useful for various bedding purposes. The flower of Nico-
tiana is shown in Fig. 97.

Fig. 97.— Flower of Nicotiana.

Nierembergia. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown
fur its flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature,

Dictionary of Plaftts. 253

36deg. The Niereniberglas, which are very good for cool
houses, as they bear a great number of campanulate flowers on
their trailing stems, are of comparatively easy culture, and as
they only require the exclusion of frost, say a temperature of
36deg. to 40deg., they are handy in many situations, especially
where plants which do not require much heat are grown. We
have grown them very successfully as follows, but we do not
think the practice is in general use : We strike cuttings in
August, and when well rooted pot off singly into small 60-sized
pots, using sandy loam for the purpose. In the latter end of
September we place these pots on a light airy shelf in the
greenhouse, and through the winter give only enough water
to prevent flagging. Of course, if a mean temperature of
about 45deg. is kept up, we apply enough water to keep the
plants growing, but not otherwise. In the second or third
month we re-pot into 48-sized pots, if the plants are to bloom
in pots, but if for outdoor decoration, then Sin. pots are used,
and the plants do well. For soil we use good sandy loam
three parts, thoroughly decomposed manure and sharp sand,
mixed, one part, and the plants are potted pretty firm. A
good light airy spot in the house is set aside for the purpose,
and water is given according to requirements. When the
heat becomes too great, the plants are removed to a sunny
frame, and the pots are plunged in coal ashes, which keeps
them in a healthy condition. When the pots are well filled
with roots, a solution of sulphate of ammonia is applied, and
plants thus treated never fail to bloom well.

Propagated by cuttings as described above, or by seeds
sown in a warm greenhouse in spring, and the plants grown
on as soon as they can be handled.

For sorts we use : N. frutescens, lilac and white ; N. gracilis,
blue; N. gracilis picta, blue, edged white, a cross between the
two preceding ; N. rivularis, cream ; and N. Veitchii, pale lilac,
N. frutescens is the tallest growing plant, and, in our opinion.
N. Veitchii is the most dwarf, but probably difference in
cultivation may have something to do with the matter.

254 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

LEANDER.— See "Nerium."

Orange. — Hai-d-wooded plant. Oranges
are very useful, botli for flowers and fruit,
and if only for tlie sake of tlie former, are
wortL. cultivation. Few persons who have
not tasted a ripe Orange from the tree have the
least conception of the delicate and refreshing
flavour of this popular fruit, of which, if im-
ported from abroad, it is almost devoid. A ripe sweet Orange,
gathered in the cool of the morning, is simply delicious ; while it
surpasses everything for quenching thirst, and also for cooling
the system. Full directions for culture are given under the head
of "Citrus."

Oxalis. — Hardy, herbaceous soft-wooded plant. Grown for
both flowers and foliage. Minimum temperature (in pots),
36deg. These are greatly neglected now, and although they
are very pretty, we think they should not occupy too much
space in the house. They are dwarf-growing plants of very
easy culture, and can be propagated freely if desired, and as
their trifoliate foliage is of a lively green, above which are borne
the star-like flowers, singly or in trusses, they are very interesting.
Plenty of drainage is necessary, but the plants never do so well
in pots as in large clumps, in a rockery or herbaceous border,
at least during the growing part of the year.

Many of the Oxalids are useful in the cold house, and the
culture here is very simple. In fact, we may say that the
whole of the Oxalids are useful in the cool houses to be
found in most places, but as there are such a vast number —
from fifty to nearly a hundred kinds, according to various
botanists — we shall not give a full list of sorts here. Suffice it
to say that in all nurseries where herbaceous plants are grown,
and in many places where pot plants are to be had, more or
fewer varieties are cultivated, and persons living near the metro-
polis can see good collections at the various large nurseries; where

Dictionary of Plaiits.

255

Herbaceous plants are made a speciality, from thirty to seventy
kinds can generally be seen growing. We give a short list below,
and all the plants there mentioned can be grown in the cold
house. A compost of two-thirds good mellow loam and one-third
leaf soil and sharp sand in equal proportions will do the plants
very well, provided plenty of water is given during the growing
season and they are allowed all the light and air possible.
A. season of rest must also be allowed, and as this will nearly
approach the time of the natural one when the plants are in
the open ground, allowance must be made accordingly.

Propagation is effected by seeds and by division of the roots
as growth recommences in spring. Seeds, however, are best for
the general amateur.

For sorts select from 0. rosea, rose ; 0. tropceoloides, yellow,
rich brown foliage; 0. corniculata rubra, rich velvety dark
brown foliage; 0. Smithii, pink; 0. rosea alba, white;
arenaria, dark rosy purple; 0. lobata, yellow; 0. elegans, rich
purple lake, dark centre ; 0. fioribunda alba, white; 0. /. rosea,
rose ; 0. pentaphylla, pink ; and 0. jpurpurea, purple.

^ ACH YPHYTUM. — Half-hardy succulent
plant. Grown for its foliage. Minimum
temperature, 38deg. It has very thick
abruptly-pointed glaucous green leaves;
and being of low growth, it is admirably
suited for carpet bedding, and is also well
worth a place in the greenhouse. The Pachy-
phytum is well adapted to stand on the edges
of the stages, where it is brought conspicuously
before the eye, but if grown for bedding purposes it will
be found necessary to have a large quantity, for although
the plant is of much beauty, with its rich creamy colour and
compact habit, still it is not effective in single specimens. A
good sandy loam, or, rather, a very sandy loam, suits it as well

256 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

as anything, if plenty of draina-^e is provided, and the plants can
stand the hottest weather -without losing their beauty. Like
most of the succulents, they will also bear much drought,
but, except in winter, it is best to allow a fair amount of mois-
ture when they are kept solely as greenhouse plants. During
winter, however, they do not require water often, as too much
moisture causes the foliage to rot off. The propagation is very
simple ; by taking off the leaves, with just a small shred of the
bark attached, and after laying them in the sun for a day or
two to dry, placing them round the edges of propagating pans or,
in fact, all over the surface, and nearly withholding water,
young plants will be formed at the base of each leaf, and
when these are large enough to handle they can be potted
off, and with a little care will do well. The tops may also be
taken off in autumn and inserted singly in small pots. These,
if placed on a dry shelf near the glass in a warm greenhouse,
will root freely if not watered to cause them to rot off, and
in spring they will be fine plants. The old stumps will make
small though useful stuff by May.

Propagated from cuttings, as described.

P. bracteosum is the sort we have referred to above. If seeds
can be obtained fine stocks of plants can be raised from them,
but seed is very scarce, and as, in the majority of cases, the
plants do not bloom, there is a great difficulty in obtaining it
at all.

FaucratixLui. — Greenhouse soft- wooded bulbous plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. The
Pancratiums are handsome bulbous plants that are well worth
cultivation, but the majority are really stove plants, and
unsuited to the general greenhouse. There are, however, four
species that are suitable for cultivation in the ordinary green-
house, and they all produce handsome umbels of superb white
blooms. Our favourite is P. crassifolium, which until lately
has been somewhat scarce. It is, however, now within the
reach of all who have a greenhouse, as the price is only from
half-a-crown to 3s. 6d. each. The Pancratiums belong to the
Amaryllidacece, and require much the same treatment as most

Dictionary of Plants. 257

of that order, but we give the treatment we have found
successful. P. speciosum requires more heat, and produces its
blooms towards the end of the year, while the others do so
later in the season.

We have found the handsome white blossoms of yery great use
for the decoration of vases and baskets, and, in some cases, hair
decoration; but they are more useful for the former purpose
Like many of the amaryllids, they are extremely useful, as
they stand well for some days after cutting, and if a good
selection of other flowers is mixed with them, the effect is both
elegant and grand, that is, if grandeur can be associated with
cut flowers. The description given of some of the amaryllids
applies for the most part to the Pancratiums.

The way we treat them is as follows : About six or eight
weeks after blooming, the plants are re-potted into pots of a
size suitable to the bulbs, in a compost of two parts good
sandy loam and one part thoroughly decayed leaf soil, to
which, sand has been added in sufficient quantities to keep the
compost open. Good drainage is afforded, so that, when neces-
sary, plenty of water can be given without waterlogging the
soil. This is an important point with all bulbous rooted plants,
for if the soil is waterlogged they sooner or later decay, and
consequently are lost. After potting, the plants are kept
watered according to their requirements, and are placed in a
light position; from the end of June until well into Sep-
tember they are kept in a frame or pit with other greenhouse
plants, and when brought indoors, placed well in the light,
where they bloom in their season. After blooming, the supply
of water is diminished to ripen the bulbs off somewhat before
re-potting. In potting, only such roots as are dead should
be removed, and all young bulbs should be taken off, and
carefully potted either singly or three or four in a pot,
according to their strength. These young bulbs, if carefully
grown on, will, in the course of two or three years, make good
blooming plants, and although at times they do not appear in
large quantities, still, generally speaking, a couple of bulbs of
each variety to start with will make a good stock in a few
years, and superfluous bulbs are. as a rule, very saleable.

258 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Pancratiums may also be treated in tlie same manner as
evergreen amaryllis, and they do well so treated.

Propagated by division of tbe bulbs, wliicli increase naturally.

The sorts for the purposes named above are P. crassifolium,
P. speciosum, P. maritimum (Fig. 98), and P. Illyricum (Fig. 99),

Fig. 98. — Pancratium Maritimum

the two latter not requiring so much heat as the fonner. In
fact, in some places they are hardy, but in the majority of
cases they do best as cool greenhouse bulbs. They are all
white.

Passiflora.-r-Half-hardy hard-wooded climber. Grown for
both flowers and foliage. Minimum temperature, 38deg. The

Fig. 99. -pancratium ILLYRICUM.

8 2

26o Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Passion Flowers belong to a class of plants that well repay
liberal culture, but they require plenty of room in whicli to
extend their growth. To obtain the best results they must
grow pretty freely, and must not be starved or stunted, or an
interminable crop of insects will take the place of bloom. Where
care is taken of the plants, however, very little trouble will be
experienced under this head, for a full flow of sap is adverse to
the comfort of insect pests, slugs and snails perhaps excepted,
but these rarely attack greenhouse roof climbers, although at
times they make a meal of a promising young shoot at the base
of a plant. These plants, like the Lapageria, require properly
prepared stations, but they need neither be so large nor so deep,
80 long as drainage is well provided for. For the different
varieties the soil requires some little variation as regards the
quantity of sand used, but iti other respects they will all do in
the soil we mention. A good layer of broken bricks or potsherds
must be placed in the bottom of the hole, which must be filled
up with equal parts of rough fibrous peat and loam, to which
some sand and broken charcoal have been added. This must
be pressed moderately firm, but not trodden too hard, as the
roots require a free run. The plants must be well watered in
at first, and during the growing season abundance of water will
be necessary. Training must be attended to as required, and
the plants kept clear of insects if they chance to appear. The
wood of the Passion Flower requires to be well ripened off by
the admission of plenty of air, and then profuse blooming will
result.

Al l the varieties have somewhat similar flowers to those
of P. ccerulea, shown in Fig. 100.

Propagated by seeds, and by layers, but as generally seeds can
be had pretty plentifully, they form the best method of pro-
pagation. Sow in spring on pans of sandy loam in a warm
greenhouse, and prick off into single pots as soon as large
enough.

For sorts use a selection from the following: P. Bellotti,
P. Campbellii, P. ccerulea, P. c. racemosa, P. c. racemosa rubra,
P. fragrans, P. Comte Nesselrode, P. L'Imperatrice Eugenie^
P. Neiomanii, and P. palmata, all of which are good.

262 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Pelargonium. — Half -Hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. This is a very
large family of plants, and includes what are generally called
Geraniums, that is, the scarlet and bedding varieties, and the
Cape or fancy Pelargoniums.

The varieties amount to several hundreds, and it is much to
be regretted that they are so multiplied, for in many cases they
are so much alike that it is quite impossible to tell them
apart. Scarlets, indeed, are so numerous that it is difficult to
distinguish them by name at all, except in the case of a very
few sorts, which are really distinct.

In the tricolor, bicolor, and bronze sections, also, the same
difficulties arise, and, while we have grown some 150 sorts or
varieties to name, we have not had above thirty that are i-eally
distinct. There are, of course, some which can be easily told
apai-t, but, as we arranged a houseful once, no one out of the
trade, and but few in it, could have told where one variety
ended and the other began. Still, they were all true to
name.

To commence, we will take the scarlet and zonal sections.
These, as nearly every one is aware, are the sorts which
are chiefly used for bedding-out purposes, and are, therefore,
always in request. They are also useful for the decoration of
the greenhouse during part of the year, and for ornament in
rooms, &c. In fact, generally speaking, the scarlet and other
zonal Pelargoniums are the most useful plants we have ; certainly,
they are most generally grown. The first consideration is
to get good plants for bedding-out purposes, and these we
manage to obtain as follows : In August or the first week in
September, some 6in. or Sin. pots are got in readiness, by half
filling them with crocks, and then filling up with a sandy com-'
post, loam being the principal ingredient. A number of cuttings
having been prepared, are inserted about twenty or thirty in
each pot ; the pots are well watered and stood in the full rays
of the sun. In a short time they become rooted, when all dead
foliage is removed, and about the end of the month they are
removed into the greenhouse, there to remain until the next
March. Only just enough water to keep them alive is neces-

Dictionary of Plants. 263

sary, and so long as tlie house is kept fairly dry, and frost is
well excluded, the young plants will do very well. About March
they are potted off into large 60-sized pots, and, by affording more
moisture and warmth, good plants are obtained in the proper
season. A compost of maiden loam, enriched with a little
thoroughly rotted manure and made sufficiently porous by the
addition of some sharp sand, does the bedding varieties well.

For plants to bloom during winter we always strike the cut-
tings in June, and about August shift them into Gin. pots.
They are carefully grown on until the second week in
September, when some are removed into the greenhouse and
others into frames. During the whole of this time they are
not allowed to bloom, neither are they watered more than is
necessary, as the aim is to obtain a potful of vigorous roots,
and a comparatively dwarf sturdy head. When introduced
into the house a temperature of about 50deg. to 55deg. is main-
tained, and a free circulation of air is allowed, the plants
at the same time receiving more liberal treatment. Those left
in the frames are not housed until October, and, of course,
receive a similar treatment to the others. As the season
advances, the maximum temperature may be reduced 4deg.
or 5deg., so as to maintain a kind of equilibrium with the
outer atmosphere. It may also be found useful to give a
small quantity of liquid manure from time to time, but if it
can be done without, so much the better. To grow plants for
bloom during the winter months it is necessary to have a
light house, and to give the plants liberal treatment, at the
same time to use every endeavour to keep the growth as stocky
as possible, as on this very much depends.

For summer use in pots, &c., the cuttings should be potted off
singly into Sin. pots in August, and kept through the winter as
before described, and then, about six weeks after Christmas,
they should be shifted into 4in. pots, and by receiving due
attention they will do well throughout the season.

We now come to the bronze and golden hicolor section, as being
next to the ordinary scarlet and zonal varieties. These are most
suitable for pot culture, and we shall therefore treat of them as
pot plants, as the greatest amount of beauty can be got from them

264 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

as sucli. Of course, there are bronzes and bronzes, and in the
majority of cases considerable management is needed to bring
ont tlie good points of the plants — particularly tliose wliicli are
of a very robust nature — as tbey all require a treatment suit-
able to tlieir constitution. Moreover, a little judgment used
in selecting the cuttings, and a little care in choosing soils,
will save much time and anxiety in after work. Thus a very
robust, free growing bronze, if propagated from soft free grown
wood, will grow to an immense size, especially if the soil is rich,
while at the same time the colour will not differ much from an
ordinary zonal ; but if the cuttings are made from poor starved
specimens, and the soil is not over rich, the results will generally
be all that can be desired. We therefore advise a poor, rather
than too rich a soil, and, as a rule, rather firm potting.

The soil we use for bronzes and bi colors is sound yellow
loam, passed through a lin. meshed sieve, and to this we add
enough leaf soil and sharp sand to keep the whole open. For
weak - growing plants a little thoroughly decomposed cow
manure can also be advantageously joined ; but it must not
be overdone, or strength will be obtained at the expense of
colour.

The way we grow this class of Pelargoniums is as follows : In
February or in August, according to circumstances, we strike
cuttings of the sorts we intend growing on in pots. This
we do by inserting cuttings singly in thumb or small 60-sized
pots, filled with sandy compost, until we have about 12 per
cent, more cuttings than we require plants, to allow for losses.
These plants are re-potted and placed in the frames about
the second week in April, and as soon as the pots are full of
roots they are shifted into such sized pots as they are to per-
manently occupy. Care must be paid to stopping, &c., and the
plants must be kept near the glass. "Water must be given as
necessary, and during very bright hot sun it is well to apply
a slight shade. In this they resemble tricolors. In fact, as
a rule, the treatment may be the same as that for tricolors,
with some slight difference to suit the habits of the plants.

In the tricolor or variegated foliage section, we find two
divisions — silvei* and gold — both of which are very useful in

Dictionary of Plants. 265

their places. The treatment is the same for both, and although
we may be disbelieved by many unsuccessful growers, we assert
that there is no more real difficulty in growing tricolors than
there is in growing the ordinary zonal varieties, tlie only
trouble being the propagation, and in this there is but little
if it is commenced at the proper time. We strike our main crop
or stock in August, and plants for pot culture, to come in late,
we strike in March, as we find that at other times, although, we
can strike the cuttings freely, the plants are not of much,
service, as those struck during the winter are generally too poor
in colour, and those stmck during the summer are too large, and
often too sappy to winter well. Besides, it rarely happens
that tricolors retain their colour during the winter, and it is
therefore necessary that the plants should not be incited to grow
much during that time. We have ere now worked up a stock of
about 500 plants from a seedling in less than twelve months ; but
if we had desired them for our own use, about one-fourth of that
number only would have been raised, as excessive propagation
reduces the constitution and vigour of these plants to such an
extent that they are too weak for any purpose, and the colour is
reduced to a minimum. In this as in other matters, it happens
that the more the haste the less the speed. We would there-
fore desire our readers to remember that in no case should
propagation be carried too far, and also that cuttings should
only be taken from the strongest and best plants, as weak
cuttings do not produce highly coloured plants.

For convenience, we generally adopt the following plan : In
August cuttings are inserted singly in small 60-sized pots,
previously prepared by filling about one-third full of crocks
and the remainder with sandy loam, the sand used being very
sharp. The cuttings are then potted firmly, and after twenty-
four hours the j)ots are carefully watered, and then stood in a
frame facing the south, the frame being filled up with ashes
to a convenient height. Water is not again necessary for
about a week or ten days, when the cuttings are just emitting
roots, and after this time water is applied with care. The
lights are only used to exclude heavy storms, and care is taken
that a too vigorous growth is not induced, as the more dwarf

266 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

and hard the young plants are, the more easily are they managed
during winter.

In wintering both old and young plants we take great care
to place them in a light airy position near the glass, and to
keep the house free from an excess of atmospheric moisture,
at the same time maintaining a temperatui'e of about 4odeg.
Yery little water is given during the winter; in fact, only
sufficient to keep the plants in a healthy condition, but at
the same time excessive dryness is avoided, or they would
be liable to damp off when watered. All dead and decaying
foliage is kept scrupulously removed, and in fact everything
that would tend to cause " damp " or decay is carefully
avoided.

In spring, cuttings can be taken from the old plants, and
struck in the greenhouse, always provided that they are ex-
posed to the full sun. For convenience, we always strike these
in single pots, as they are then so much more readily handled,
and, what is more, the roots do not get broken, which is a
most important point, as tricolors never have too many roots.

The plants struck in August should be re-potted in March,
and the old plants from which cuttings have been taken should
be re-potted as soon as they have broken well. Shift the young
stuff into 48-sized pots, and the old ones into pots a size smaller
than those which they occupy when cut back. Subsequent
re-potting must depend on the wants and vigour of the plants,
as no strict rule can be set in this respect.

About the second or third week in April the plants — with
the exception of those for bedding-out purposes — can be placed
on a bed of ashes in a cold frame, and with a little care as
to closing the lights early, watering, and shading, &c., the
foliage wiU soon obtain the true colours and habit. Bronzes
also require to stand in a cold frame if the best colour is
desired, and mixed with the tricolors they have a very pretty
effect. It must be remembered that both bronzes and tricolors
are variable as to the time when they show most colour, some
being best in spring, and others in autumn; but very few
are at their prime during the hottest part of summer, and
even those which are in good form are only made so by shading

Dictionary of Plants. 267

and other adventitious means. The soil we use for tricolors
is composed of good maiden or fibrous yellow loam three parts,
and one part thoroughly decomposed cow manure and leaf
soil, or peat. To this compost is added enough sharp sand to
maintain the whole in a proper state of porosity.

Tricolors should be put out in beds at least a week or ten
days later than the ordinary zonal varieties, on account of their
being much more tender, but it is well to remark that they are
not so effective, as a rule, as other coloured foliage plants, and
it is far better to use them as decorative pot plants only. In
only a very few places are tricolors or bronzes really effective
bedded out in the open ground.

Ivy-leaved Felargoniums require much the same treatment as
the ordinary zonal varieties.

The varieties with scented foliage also want similar treatment,
the only difference being perhaps more sand in the compost,
so that greater porosity may be maintained, as some of them
have to be potted firmer than the ordinary zonals, on account
of their ninning too gross if potted loose.

The double varieties thrive with the same treatment as ordi-
nary scarlets, but they must not have too much room for the
roots, or the foliage will be most conspicuous. Too rich a soil
should also be avoided.

For the use of amateurs the varieties marked with an asterisk
are best. Where convenience exists, doubles do best struck
from eyes, as vines are, but there are few amateurs who
can perform this part of a propagator's duties*; and, to say the
least, some skill and much attention must be paid, or failure
is certain.

Cajpe Felargoniums are really fine plants for the decoration
of the greenhouse and conservatory, and grown in from 6in. to
8in. pots, form masses of bloom that cannot easily be equalled.
The culture is most simple, and as the earliest bloom is that
most desired, we give our plan of obtaining it, so that plenty of
bloom is to be had from March to May, and, with a little
management, even later than that. In the first place, we strike
cuttings in March or April, and keep the young plants growing
on until the middle of September, stopping back and training

268 Greenhouse Managernent for Amateurs.

into form as occasion may require. The plants at tliis time will
be in Gin. or Sin. pots, according to their habits, and of good
size, the pots not being over full of roots. Water is gradually
diminished after September, until the plants are dormant, and
some time in October they are placed on a light airy shelf in a
greenhouse, where frost is excluded, but where a high tempera-
ture is not maintained. About the beginning of February
some of them are started into growth, and a slightly increased
temperature is afforded, and by the end of the month part
are in bloom. The others are not started until the end of
February, and these take the season of blooming into May.

Some plants struck in July, and wintered as described above,
but re-potted in spring, will take the blooming season on until
the end of August, that is if the plants are grown out of doors,
or rather in cold frames. These may also be bedded out, but
we find they do not answer well in all places. The various kinds
have wide variations in the habit of growth, but although some
will reach 4ft. in height, others, if care is not used, will not be
more than 9in. or 1ft. in height.

For soil we use maiden loam, enriched with a little leaf soil,
and thoroughly decomposed manure, and to this is added
enough sharp sand to keep the compost well open. The quality
of the soil must be varied somewhat, according to the habit of
the plant, and a little care must be taken as to the amount of
water given, so that a too vigorous, or, in fact, a too rapid and
weak growth is not induced.

Although not generally treated as annuals, both Cape and
zonal Pelargoniums are very easily grown as such ; and, if the
seeds are only saved in a careful manner from good plants, a fair
show can be had late in the season. "We do not advise the
use of seedlings in preference to plants raised in the ordi-
nary manner, as they are too late for bedding-out purposes,
and, at the same time, there is no certainty of their pro-
ducing flowers of the same floricultural value. There is, how-
ever, the chance of obtaining plants of sufficient merit to keep
and propagate, and these will, of course, be in proportion to
the quality of the seed. Some special features may also be
obtained, which will render the plants worth cultivation inde-

Dictionary of Plants. 269

pendent of their floricultural merit; thus, a very dwarf, or
floriferous kind, may be very useful for some particular work,
as was one we raised. This was a pink, the colour of Christine.
The flowers were no better than the old phlox, but, as the plants
did not exceed four inches in height, and the blooms were pro-
duced in great profusion, it made a fine edging plant ; but no
money value was attached to it — in fact, it was not worth a
penny for sale. From some other seed we raised one — the only
one of any use in over six hundi-ed plants — that sold for £'10
to a nurseryman, who exhibited it and took a certificate of merit,
plainly showing the incertitude of raising these plants from
seeds. We have also raised many tricolors of much use for
ordinary work, but not suflS,ciently good to name, and a few
have received certificates ; but, from the trouble it requires,
we doubt if it is a profitable speculation, unless it is the sole
hobby of the grower. With the Cape Pelargoniums, if the seed
is saved from good plants, there is generally enough variety
in the seedlings to render the work profitable from an amateur's
point of view, although there would probably have been a loss
if the plants had been grown for sale. The best plan is to
carefully hybridise the flowers from which the seeds are to be
obtained, as then it is almost certain that some plants will be
produced that are worth saving. Another point with seedlings
of the Cape and zonal sections is that tall standard plants can
be obtained very easily, and, even if the blooms are not models
of perfection, still the plants render it possible to decorate large
masses of shrubbery, &c., in a very pleasing manner.

For the zonal varieties it is desirable to sow in the green-
house in January, and to grow on gradually until about June,
giving the same treatment as described above, but, as soon as
the plants reach 4in. pots, they should not be transferred again.
During July and August they will come into bloom, and any
worth saving can be either re-potted or propagated ; but, unless
a good place for their culture exists, they had better be kept
in the 4in. pots until the succeeding spring. Such plants as
are of no use may be destroyed ere winter comes, but they will
make a little show for a time. Seed of tricolors and other
variegated varieties should be sown in February, and receive

270 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

sucli treatment as we Lave previously advised. If tte leaves
are of good form, and when held between the eye and the sun
the zone in the leaf appears of a dark rich chocolate or crimson,
the plants should be saved, for, even if they do not show colour
the first season, they will do so eventually ; and it often happens
that those which are longest in breaking colour are the best.
The plants of all the zonal class that are considered worth
saving should be cut down in the following March or April,
according to the accommodation that is at hand for their
culture. After they have started into growth they should be
re-potted into good soil, and treated the same as ordinary
plants.

Cape Pelargoniums should be sown about June, or the end of
May, if the weather is fine, and the plants should be grown on
and treated the same as ordinary stock for spring blooming,
with a little more sand in the soil than for those struck from
cuttings. Saved with ordinary care, the seeds will produce
stock worth growing ; and if saved from carefully hybrid-
ised flowers, the results will generally be very good, although
it is not probable that many plants worth naming will be
obtained ; but still there is a chance of such plants being got.
If one improved seedling is obtained in two or three hundred,
it is very good work. We may add that a good stock of Pelar-
goniums may easily be raised from seed, and if once this plan
is started, the amateur will rarely leave it off willingly.

For sorts select from the following : Scarlet zonal : Lord
Derby, Vesuvius, Charley Casbon, Cybister, Stella, Lucius,
Julius Caesar, Dr. Livingstone, Albert Memorial, Caven Fox,
Bonfire, John Thorpe. Plain-leaved scarlet : Punch, Tom
Thumb, Aigburth Beauty, Amethyst, Boadicea, and Kentish
Fire. WJiite-Jlowered : Madame Yaucher, Mrs. Sachs, Madame
F. Hoch, Purity, and White Swan. Salmon-flowered : Presi-
dent Thiers, Polly King, L'Aurore, Seraph, and Mr. Rendatler.
Oculated hlooms : Alice Spencer, Bride, Madame Werle, and
Fairy Ring. Pinh and rose coloured flowers : Rose Rendatler,
Forget-me-not, Christine, Amaranth, Lady Louisa Egerton,
Countess of E-osslyn, Amy Hogg, Yiolet Hill Nosegay, Madame
Barr, Delight, and Caroline. Various colours : Monster, light

Dictionary of Plants.

271

scarlet, immense truss ; Purple Prince, bright magenta, shaded
dark purple ; Marginata, ground colour, bright pink, with, pink
edge on a pearly white ground, very fine if slightly shaded from
bright sun ; "Wellington, dark maroon crimson ; Heine Blanche,
white nosegay; Phoebe, orange cerise. Ivy-leaved section:

Fig. 101.— Double-flowered Pelargonium, "Jewel."

Green foliage : Innocence, pure white, dark maroon stripe on
upper petals; Wilsii rosea, rose, very fine; Elegans, mauve;
Peltatum elegans, bright mauve; Alice Lee, violet crimson;
Favonier, dark purple carmine. Variegated foliage : Duke of
Edinburgh and I'Elegante are the two best. Scented foliage :

272 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Grandis odorata, sweet scented, like the oak -leaved variety \
Crispum, citron scented ; Filicifolia odorata, fern leaved ;
Lothario, and Capitatum. These are all useful, and are scented
to a greater or less extent, but it is not possible to describe the
scent of either so as to be generally understood. Double-
flowered : Scarlet : *Yictor Lemoine, Goliath, *Wilhelm Pfitzer,
*double Tom Thumb, and Jewel (Fig. 101). Eose coloured : *Marie
Lemoine, Crown Prince, Madame Lemoine, and *Spark Hill
Beauty. Of whites we will not mention any, for all we have
seen have been white in name only, the greater part of the
blooms appearing as if they had been in a plentiful shower of
brick dust, as far as colour went. N'o doubt good whites will
ultimately be brought out, but for these we must wait. Tri-
colors : Golden : Gem of Tricolors, Sunset, Mrs. Pollock, Sophia
Dumaresque, Louisa Smith, Macbeth, Lucy Grieve, Lady
Cullum, Sophia Cusack, Edwina Fitzpatrick, Achievement
(Stevens's), Mrs. Dunnett, The Moonstone (Aldred's), Prince of
Wales, Miss Goring, and Mr. Rutter. Silver : Lass o' Gowrie,
Mrs. Col. Wilkinson, Mabel Morris, Charming Bride, Prince
Silverwings, Velvet Cushion, Italic Unita, Silver Star, En-
chantress, Mysterious Night, Lady Dorothy Neville, and
Princess Beatrice. Bicolors (not bronze) : Yellow and green:
Doctor Primrose, Golden Chain, Golden Fleece, Pillar of Gold,
and Crystal Palace Gem. White and green : Castlemilk, Miss
Kingsbury, Snowdrop, Daybreak, Flower of Spring, Bijou, and
Mangle's Yariegated. Plain yelloio -leaved varieties : Robert
Fish, Creed's Seedling, Yellow Christine, Yellow Boy, and
Golden Beauty. Golden bronze: Pev. C. P. Peach, Black
Douglas, Earl of Rosslyn, Mrs. John Lee, Princess of Wales,
Black Knight, Fairy Ping, Southern Belle, Harold, Crown
Prince, Sybil, Rev. Mr. Padclyffe, Beauty, E. G. Henderson,
Bronze Queen, Golden Banner, Crimson-crowned Canary, and
Champion. Cajoe Felargoniums : Admiration, Black Prince,
Brilliant, Brigantine, Chas. Turner, Duke of Edinburgh, Envoy,
Heroine, Joan of Arc, Maid of Honour, Mr. Passam, Pollie,
Ajax, Danae, Hector, Midas, Pameau, Yvonne, East Lynn,
Formosa, Leotard, Marmion, Princess Teck, Queen Yictoria,
and various others.

Dictionary of Plants. 273

The full list of Pelargoniums, with descriptions, being very
voluminous, we give only a selection of those we know to
be good. Pelargoniums have been greatly overdone, and
although they are the plants for amateurs, the varieties are
so many and the forms of colouring, &c., so various, that we
should most decidedly advise intending purchasers to trust to
no list, but to see the plants when they are in the best form,
and then to purchase only what suits their fancy.

Fersica. — Hard-wooded tree. Grown for its flowers. Mini-
mum temperature (in pots), 36deg. The double Peach in its
red and crimson form is very handsome, and as it is suitable
for either a large or small house, is generally useful. The
trees resemble the almond in general appearance, but are not
so large in stature, and the flowers are very double, like a
double deutzia in fact, but much larger. It requires much the
same treatment as the almond, and does well with the cultivation
recommended for that tree.

Propagated by grafting on stocks of the common plum.

The varieties are — P. vulgaris fi. 2)1; double red; P. v. fl. pZ.
alha, white ; and P. v.fi. jpl. sanguinea, crimson.

Petunia. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. JMinimum temperature, 36deg. These are old-fashioned
plants of much beauty, and are very easily grown. They make
a more or less shrubby growth, and produce axillary bell-shaped
flowers, much like those of the convolvulus in form, but of
various colours. The ovate leaves are closely set on the stems,
and as the blooms are freely produced the plants are very
useful. The double varieties have the centre of the blooms
filled with a more or less confused mass of petals, and, while
lacking the uniformity of such flowers as camellias, yet are
very pleasing. Given the same treatment as the verbena, they
form magnificent plants ; and as they are not easily approached
in colour by other subjects, they are really necessary in a
well kept conservatory. The double kinds are very fine if well
grown, and the single varieties are also useful for basket
and vase decoration. Seeds raised and treated as half hardy

2 74 Greenhouse Ma7tagement for Amateurs.

annuals also give great satisfaction out of doors, as tlie flowers,
being from one to two inclies in diameter and of various bright
shades of colour, from pale rose to dark purple, produce an
eliect not always to be obtained with other plants, especially as
they bloom very profusely from July until frost destroys them.

Propagated by seeds sown in spring as a half hardy annual, or
by cuttings struck in heat in spring, or without heat in summer
and early autumn.

Six good doubles are, P. Bonnie Dundee, purple, deeply
margined with white ; P. MacMahon, white-veined pink ; P. Snow-
ball, pure white ; P. Lorraine, dark purple crimson ; P. Marie
Yan Houtte, deep purple; P. King of Crimsons, rich purplish
crimson. Six good singles are, P. Spitfire, intense dark purple ;
P. Single Beauty, lavender, dark pui'pie centre and rays ; P.
Othello, deep purple crimson, veined black ; P. Perdita, bright
crimson, shaded light, with white rays ; P. Etoile du Nord,
white, mottled with crimson and light purple ; and P. Maggie
Cochrane, purplish crimson, mottled with rosy white. Seeds
saved from these singles produce very useful border plants, and,
at times, a plant or two worth saving. For cultural directions
see " Yerbena."

Phlox. — Half-hardy annual. Grown for its flowers. Minimum
temperature 40deg. Phlox Drummondii (Fig. 102), when nicely
grown, forms as pretty a pot or low vase plant as can be desired,
but unless some care is taken the growth is difficult. In
the first place, it is of the greatest importance that the soil
used shall be both rich and fairly porous, and also that good
drainage shall be afforded; and although the plants, which are
prostrate in habit, and have a general appearance much like a
verbena, will last the whole season bedded out, still, in pots,
they will not last more than a month or so. The seed should
be sown on a gentle heat early in the season, and when suffi-
ciently large to handle, the plants should be potted off into
4in. pots for single plants, or three plants in a Gin. pot. The
soil we use is composed of two-thirds good fibrous loam and
one part thoroughly decomposed cow manure, to which is added
sufficient sharp sand to keep the whole open. Plenty of drainage

Dictionary of Plants.

275

must be afforded, as the plants require a fair amount of
moistui'e when growing freely. The same after treatment as
afforded to petunias, &c., will answer very well for these plants,
but they must be prepared and bloomed in frames before they
are introduced to the house.

Fig, 102.— Phlox Drummondii.

Propagated from seeds as described above.

A packet of good mixed seed will produce a large variety of
blooms, and unless it is desired to have expensive vai'ieties, will
answer all practical purposes. "VYe, therefore, do not give a list
here, but there are more than twenty names given in various

276 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

catalogues, and in some cases (but not always) tlie plants come
true to colour.

Phormium. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant. Grown for its
foliage. Minimum temperature, 38deg. This is an ornamental
plant of some beauty, and is suitable for houses where there
is both plenty of room and plenty of height for the full
development of the leaves. Its stately habit of growth renders
it particularly useful for large conservatories and similar places,
and, while in a comparatively small state, it is useful for room
decoration to a certain extent, but, of course, other and more
graceful plants should be associated with it if the full effect of
its peculiar beauty is to be obtained. This plant, which is
also known as New Zealand flax, has broad green or variegated
flag-like leaves, from 3ft. to oft. in length, according to the
variety, and • will with little trouble attain a height of five
feet or more. In Lord Meath's garden, at Kilruddery, co.
"Wicklow, Ireland, the leaves of a fine specimen {put of doors)
attain a length of from 10ft. to 14ft., the whole forming a
magnificent clump of foliage. But of these out-door plants we
have nothing to say here, pot plants being at present our
speciality.

For soil we use sound fibrous maiden loam and leaf soil, in
equal portions, and about a sixth part of coarse, sharp sand.
Plenty of drainage is necessary, and plenty of pot room is im-
portant. Repot each spring, giving a liberal shift, and potting
rather firmly, keeping close for a few days, im.til the roots may
be supposed to have recovered from the check consequent on re-
potting. Plenty of water is necessary during the season of
growth, and during the hot months the plants may stand out of
doors.

Propagated by seeds raised in a gentle bottom heat in spring,
or in a warm greenhouse in May and June.

For sorts, P. Colensoi variegatum, P. CooTcii, P. tenax, and P.
tenax variegatum will all be found of use, the variegated sorts, of
course, being most effective for house decoration.

Pimelea. — Greenhouse hard wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature 45deg. These plants are of

Dictionary of Plants. 277

ratter difficult culture, and unless tlie amateur means to go in
for gardening in its entirety, are of no value to liim ; but where
anyone intends to grow his plants well, they amply repay all
trouble bestowed on them. They belong to a class of statice-
like plants that is especially liable to the attacks of red spider
unless properly grown, and then there is little fear of trouble
from any kind of insect. Pimeleas are not suited for houses
where the minimum temperature is less than 45deg. in winter,
as they are never actually at rest, as are most other hard-
wooded plants.

About the end of March or early in April young healthy
plants in Gin. pots should be re-potted into some 2in. or Sin.
larger, with a good fibrous loam chopped into lumps about the
size of walnuts, and not sifted ; to this should be added
about one- sixth of sharp sand ; pot the plants firmly, and stand
in a position where they will receive no side air, for a fortnight
or so. The stage on which the pots stand should be kept moist,
and the plants should be gently syi'inged over every morning.
Shade must be afforded from hot sun throughout the growing
season, a point that is too frequently neglected. As the
blooms of the first season will be of little worth, it is as
well to remove them as soon as they begin to open, cutting the
branches midway between the bloom and the place where they
were cut in the previous year. This will prevent the branches
becoming too long in proportion to the size of the plants. Get
the plants to make as good growth during the summer as pos-
sible, both by careful shading and by judicious watering, syringing
thoroughly every day, and in such a manner that the under,
as well as the upper, side is wetted, so that the red spider shall
be kept down, as no amount of care serves for recovery from
their ravages. About the end of August more air and less
shade may be given, and the syringing may be discontinued, so
as to harden the plants off a little, and they must be wintered
in a light position, where the minimum temperature is not less
than 45deg. They will require water throughout the winter,
but not so much as during the summer. In spring repot as
before, giving from 2in. to 4in. larger pots, according to the state
of the roots, and treat as before, with the exception of removing

278 Greenhouse Management for A77tateiirs.

the blooms, unless the plants are required for exhibition. After
the bloom is over cut back and treat as already described, and
take great care that the water from the syringe touches
every part of the foliage, or the spider will get in and the
plants will be spoiled. "Very little training will be required,
only a few sticks just to hold the branches down, so that the
plants shall be well furnished, and perhaps a few more to hold
the branches in their place when they get large, but these latter
are not always wanted.

Propagated by cuttings struck in gentle bottom heat during
summer or autumn.

For sorts select from P. spectahilis, P. s. rosea, P. Hendersonii,
P. elegans, P. decussata, P. hispida, P. mirabilis, and P. Neip-
pergiana, all of which are good. P. hispida and P. Neippergiana
do best in good sandy, fibrous peat, but the general treatment is
the same as for the others.

Pittosporum. — Half-hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for
both flowers and general appearance. Minimum temperature,
36deg. This is a class of plants which is well worthy of culti-
vation, although not very largely gi'own now. It stands well
and is seldom sickly, while it bears its pretty fragrant flowers
freely. The flowers, which are produced in terminal clusters,
show well above the foliage, as shown in Fig. 103, and in good-
sized bushes the effect is excellent.

In the cultivation of these plants a fair amount of pot room
must be afforded, and drainage must be well provided for. Any
o-ood soil answers, and we have found the following compost
sei-ve very well : Turfy loam three parts, thoroughly decomposed
cow manure one part, and leaf soil and sand one part ; pot
rather firm, and grow on in a cool house. The same remarks
apply to these as to other hard-wooded plants in regard to
training, watering, &c. The plants can stand out of doors
from July to September, and a light situation indoors should
be given them for the rest of the year. Re-potting should be
done in March, and the plants kept close for a few days after.
Some have proved hardy in Ireland, but it is dcmbtf ul if they
would live in many parts of England without protection.

D ictio nary of PI a n ts.

279

It may not be amiss perliaps to mention that P. Tohira is gro\vn
in tubs in some parts of the Continent, and the plants in winter
are stored away in cellars or sheds, and there is no reason
why this plan should not be carried out in warm places in
England. Pittosporums should form companions to the myrtle
where the latter is grown in tubs or large pots.

Fia. 103.— PiTTOSPOEDM SiNENSE.

Propagated from cuttings in the same manner as Hovea.

For sorts we prefer P. Tohira, P. T. argenteo variegatum,
P. undiUatum, P. eugenoides, P. Sinense (Fig. 103), P. Mayii,
and P. crassifolium, which are all good.

Fleroma. — Greenhouse hard-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. This is a plant which
to a degree resembles the Hovea in form, producing somewhat
bell- shaped purple flowers, and making nice shrubs, about 18in.
high, well furnished with foliage, but, as it has a better
habit than that plant, and, as the bloom is brighter, it is of
more value for pot culture. We have found the blossoms veiy

28o Greenhouse Managefnent for Amateurs.

useful for bouquets tliat are used during daylight, but by
artificial light the blooms lose their brilliancy and are not
very effective. As a conservatory plant, while it is in bloom
it stands pre-eminent when well done, and, although nob
suitable for a cold greenhouse, it well repays any trouble
bestowed on it ; it will not do in a house where the temperature
is less than 40deg. in winter, and, therefore, it is useless for an
unheated structure. The best mode of procedure is to purchase
plants in 6in. pots, in autumn, and to place them in a green-
house until about March, when the roots will probably be
sufficiently active to warrant re-potting ; use 9in. pots for
the purpose, and, for compost, take good fibrous loam and
about one-sixth of clean sharp sand ; allow plenty of drainage ;
pot firmly, and stand in a close XDlace for a few days. Care
must be taken all through their growth to protect them from
hot sun, by shading, and it is well to protect as early as
March. Xor must it be forgotten to keep the strongest shoots
trained to the outsides, and the weaker ones to the middle, so
as to equalise the growth. As the weather gets warm the
plants should be syringed in the afternoon, and plenty of water
must be given to the roots. About August discontinue
syringing, and give more air and light to harden them off
for their season's rest. The next season again re-pot, giving
another Sin, shift, and treat as before until August, when they
should be removed to the open air under a tall hedge or
trees, where the sun has no power on them. Bring them in
about the middle of September, and place near the light;
winter as before, and be careful the sun does not injure the
foliage, and the plants will probably bloom in spring. By
careful stopping and training, and by keeping relays in
readiness, there is no difficulty in maintaining a sufficient
stock for all ordinary work. "NVithout Pleromas, a collection
of plants would be incomplete.

Propagated from cuttings struck in sandy compost in a cool
greenhouse.

Plumbago. — Greenhouse hard- wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. These plants are more

Dictionary of Plants. 281

suited for use as climbers or wall plants tlian for culture as
buslies, but as tbey are so very ornamental wlien well-flowered,
and as by the following mode of treatment they can be made
to do well, we treat them here rather as bushes. It is a plant
that has a long straggling habit of growth, with aloysia-like
foliage, and for this reason is more suited for walls or pillars ;
but, at the same time, where there is plenty of room, the
Plumbago does well trained over a balloon trellis. The plants
bloom best in a moderately warm house, bearing terminal clus-
ters of tubular jasmine-like flowers, and it is not advisable
to have them in any other house than one that can be kept
comparatively warm. In the first place, plants should be
obtained in autumn that have been stopped back to about 2in.
from the collar, and which have five or six shoots or branches.
A balloon trellis should be fixed in the pot and the branches
trained over it, and by careful stopping about twice in the
year, and training the shoots out carefully, the frame will be
covered the first season. A moderate pruning must be given
the next year, and the plants must be re-potted into larger
IDots, a free open soil being provided. "We use good fibrous
loam and sand, and a little peat, and, in some cases, a little
thoroughly decomposed manure is admissible if the other soils
are poor. Planted out in the borders of a warm conserva-
tory, or in a warm greenhouse, these fonn some of the best
plants for walls and pillars, and should be more extensively
grown than at present.

Propagated from the rooted shoots from the base of the
plants, or by cuttings which root freely in a gentle bottom heat
when nearly ripe.

P. Cai^ensis, P. rosea, and P. Zeylanica are all good, although,
perhaps, the preference should be given to the two former.

Polygonatxun. — Hardy herbaceous soft - wooded plant.
Grown for its general appearance and scented flowers. Mini-
mum temperature (in pots), 40deg. The Solomon's Seal is a
fragrant early blooming plant, the habit and general appear-
ance of which is shown in Fig. 104- ; it pays well either for
forcing or in the warm or cool greenhouse, and the culture

282 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

is most simple. All that is necessary is to secure good clumps
in the autumn, and to pot them in a compost similar to that
advised for the dicentra, affording plenty of drainage, as at
the time the plants are growing freely they require an abundance
of moisture. The plants should be well watered after potting,
and they can then be placed in heat or otherwise, as may be
required, ' and as soon as they start growing they must have a
light position near the glass, so that they shall be prevented

from drawing up weak and
spindly, their height being pro-
perly about 18in. The flowers,
which are, as a rule, produced
in axillary clusters, are of a
greenish-white colour, and emit
a pleasant perfume, particularly
in the early part of the day.
After blooming, the plants
should be put out in a rich
border to have a season's rest
and recuperate themselves.
Plenty of water is necessary
during the growing season, and
even in the season of rest the
plants — if kept in pots — must
not become dust dry, or the
stems, when produced in spring,
will be of but small value.
Propagated by division of the root stocks, which somewhat
resemble those of the water flag.

The varieties that are useful for pot work are : P. Japonicum,
P. J. argenteum striatum (variegated foliage), P. midtiflorum
(Fig. 104), P. m. flore-pleno, P. m. aureum striatum (variegated
foliage), P. roseum, and P. verticillatum, all of which bear
whitish-green or greenish-white flowers, with the exception of
P. roseum, which has rose-coloured blossoms.

FlO. 104,— POLTGONATUM MuLTIFLORTJM.

Fortulacca. — Tender succulent annual. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum tempei-ature, 45deg. The Portulaccas are

D ictiona ry of Pla n ts.

28-

very useful for either in-door or out-door cultivation where
the situation is warm and dry, and where there is plenty of
sun. The succulent nature of the plants renders them very
useful for poor soils when used for bedding purposes, the
colours being very bright and varied, while by keeping them
pegged down the bed will be one mass of bloom and lively
green foliage, and if the colours are kept separate, large masses
of orange, purple, white, and crimson will easily be obtained.
Planted from mixed seed, however, they will not look amiss ;
in fact, some persons prefer this plan. Nice plants in 4in.
or Gin. pots are very useful for various decorative purposes.

FlQ. 105.— PORTULACCA AURANTIACA.

and if large flat stages in the conservatory have to be covered,
these form one of the best plants to use largely. The seeds
should be sown thinly on broad-mouthed pans or boxes, in
sandy soil. Allow plenty of drainage, but be careful that
the soil does not become dry, or the seeds will fail. A gentle
bottom heat is a great advantage in raising the seeds, as
the plants in that case come up quickly and well. When
large enough they should be potted off into smtdl pots, and be
placed on a light shelf near the glass in a warm greenhouse.
As soon as the pots become filled with roots, the plants should
be shifted into the blooming pots, either 4in. or 6in., as desired.
For soil we use a compost of good loam one part, decayed leaf

284 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

soil one part, and coarse sand and broken sandstone or crocks
together one part, potting the plants fairly firm, and applying
water as may be requisite. A light, warm, but airy place will
suit the plants well, and too much water must not be given if
it is desired to have the finest show of bloom, but at the same
time the supply must not be so stinted as to cause the foliage
of the plants to turn yellow.

Propagated by seeds, as described above.

Various named sorts exist, but, for all ordinary purposes, a
packet of double and single mixed will be amply sufficient. We,
however, give some names : P. aVoa, white ; P. alha striata, white
and scarlet ; P. aurantiaca, orange; P. aurea striata, orange and
crimson; P. caryophylloicles, striped; P. TJiellusonii, crimson;
P. T. sjplendens, rosy purple; and P. Thorhurnii, yellow.

Primula (Hardy). — Hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature (in jDots), 36deg. The prim-
roses are quite a host in themselves, and where there is only a
cold house, or a house from which the frost only is excluded,
they fill up a great gap in the sup^^ly of bloom, as many blossom
as early as the end of February out of doors, and under shelter
they may reasonably be expected to bloom at least a foi-tnight
— if not three weeks — earlier. As the family is so large, we
cannot afford space for a description of each kind (nor is that
at all necessary), but must be content with general remarks.

P. Sinensis and its varieties will thrive in a light house
where frost is excluded, as will any of the hardy varieties ; but
it must be remembered that in all cases where plants are in
pots it is absolutely necessary that means shall be provided
to protect the roots from frost. The best-sized pots in which
to grow Primulas are 4in. and 6in., according to the natural
habit of growth of each plant, and as the plants are very
impatient of too much root moisture, care must be taken
that the drainage holes are sufficiently large to admit of
the free passage of superfluous water. The plants being
in some cases rather deep rooting, the pots should be deep,
rather than shallow, for their size. In all cases it is neces-
sary to supply plenty of drainage, and also, in the case

Dictionary of Plants. 285

of some of the alpine varieties, to place some broken sand-
stone among tlie soil, so tliat a certain amount of coolness
and moisture shall be maintained during the hot weather. A
good general compost consists of two parts good mellow fibrous
loam, not sifted, one part thoroughly decayed leaf soil, and
sufficient sharp clean sand to insure the requisite amount of
porosity for the free passage of the superfluous moisture. If
possible, the house should face the north-east, as, during the
summer, if the plants were permanent occupants, the sun
would otherwise be too powerful ; but [ if there is plenty
of frame room, any house would be suitable, as the plants
could be removed to frames facing the north during the
hot weather, or from the end of May until October, when
they could be returned to the house. This latter would
also be about the best plan to secure the blooms in per-
fection. As much air as possible should be admitted at all
seasons, or the plants will become drawn and practically
useless. Insects — but more particularly green fly, which will
be sure to put in an appearance — are injurious, and it will
therefore be found necessary to fumigate as soon as the flrst
one appears, so that no damage may be done; for, as they
attack the tenderest parts of the foliage, they soon destroy
the heart, and consequently the bloom — if not the whole
— of any plant which they may attack. Slugs and snails,
although doing more damage individually, are not so much
trouble to discover and exterminate as the fly, for while the
former leave a slimy trail to show their whereabouts, the latter
work so insidiously that only close examination will discover
their presence.

Propagated by seeds and by division of the plants.

Amongst the kinds that may be grown in the cold house,
the following are very good, but as the number of Primulas
is so great, it is far the better plan for a purchaser to go
to a large nursery and, select such as suit his particular
taste. The varieties of the common Primrose (P. acaulis) —
but more particularly the double varieties — are very useful
and pretty, and, as they can be taken up and bloomed in
the house and then returned to the ground, they should be

286 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

largely used for this work : P. acaulis ji.-jpl., pale yellow ; P.
a. alba Jl.-pl., wliite ; P. a. lilacina fi.-pl., lilac ; P. a. lutea
fl.'pl., deep yellow; P. a. purpurea fi.-pl., purple; P. a. rosea
fi.-pL, rose ; and P. a. rubra fi.-pl., deep crimson, are the best
doubles of the acaulis section. P. auricula (Fig. 106) contains
many good things, especially the alpine varieties, and a dozen
or two of good seedlings would not be a bad investment. P.
a. nigra fi.-pL is a good double black, and P. a, lutea, and its

Fig. 106.— Primula Auricula.

double variety, are good yellows, while the hybrids are legion.
P. Altaica, purplish crimson; P. Candolleana, purple; P. cor-
tusoides and its varieties, are good tall Primulas of rather
robust habit. P. erosa, lilac ; P. minima, rose (about the
smallest of the family) ; and P. verticillata, yellow (Fig. 107),
may all be grown, but they require much care to do them well,
unless a house is devoted to them alone.

Primula Sinensis. — HaK-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 3Sdeg. The double (Fig.

Dictionary of Plants.

287

109) and single (Fig. 108) varieties of P. sinensis are very useful
for decorative pui-poses in tlie winter and spring raonths, and.

Fig. 107.— Flower of Primula Verticillata.

as ttey are of comparatively easy cultui-e, tliey form — or rather
eliould — a very large part of the soft-wooded plants in bloom

288 Greenhouse Managefuent for Amateurs.

from October to Febi*uary. During the dull montlis of the year
it often happens that ordinary geraniums and other miscel-
laneous plants are very chary of blooming, and then P. sinensis
is very handy to have among plants that bloom at that season.
Doubles are far more trouble to grow than single varieties,
and the treatment is different; but the singles are as easy to
trrow as grass, if ordinary care is used. There are also semi-

FiG. 108.— Primula Sinensis.

double varieties that are easily raised from seeds, and they are
as easy to do as the singles, requiring the same treatment;
but, as we said before, doubles proper require quite a distmct

treatment. •. • i.

We wiU take the singles fii'st. In the first place, it is abso-
lutely necessary that the plants should be grown on. steadily
from the time of sowing until the time of blooming, nor dunng
the whole period must they become pot-bound, for if they do

Dictionary of Plants.

289

tliey will most assuredly commence blooming prematurely,
and the consequence then is tliat much of their energy
is wasted, and, unless care be taken, the subsequent blooms

Fig. 109.— PniiiuLA Sinensis Flore-pleno.

will be comparatively poor. For this reason it is advisable
to make more than one sowing, as, by doing so, a better
succession of bloom can be maintained. Besides, by having
two or three sowings less risk is run, for if one batch is a

290 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

whole or partial failure otliers will not be so. And here let us
say that it is useless to purchase cheap seed of Primulas,
as the great cost and labom- involved in saving good
seeds, and the comparatively small quantity produced in the
best strains, renders them expensive, and a really good article
is worth a good price. Those usually retailed in sixpenny-
worths and shillingsworths are very poor, even if they are
such as will grow, and the flowers as much resemble a good
fimbriated strain as a buttercup resembles a first-class ranun-
culus. Poor washy things, not so good in form as a common
primrose, and of no decided colour, and very weedy withal, are
produced from the seeds sold in ordinary retail trade. We
therefore recommend the seeds in sealed packets, the lowest
retail price of which is 2s. 6d. ; and if a 5s. packet of a
well-known English strain be obtained of a good house, little
fear need be entertained as to quality.

We sow seeds in April, June, and August, on the surface
of rather finely prepared soil, in well- drained pans, and
cover with sheets of glass, which are thinly whitewashed
on one side to prevent the admission of too much light.
The pans are then placed in a pit or frame where a tem-
perature of 60deg. to 65deg. is maintained. Here the seeds
germinate freely, and, as the plants get on towards the third
leaf, the whitewash is removed, and air is gradually admitted,
but care is taken not to allow the sun to burn the plants,
as they recover from such a check to their growth very
slowly. Previous to sowing, the pots are well soaked with
water, by standing them in a tub with the water reaching up
to their rims only. By this means enough is absorbed by the
soil to render more water unnecessary until the seeds have
germinated. As soon as the young plants have their fourth
leaf they are potted ofl: into Sin. pots, well drained, and with
more sand in the compost than that mentioned further on.
Or, if it is considered desirable, the plants are pricked off into
pans, about lin. asunder, there to remain for a fortnight or
three weeks. After this transplanting, they are removed to
the pit or frame from which they were taken, and kept close
for a few days to prevent them receiving a check, and then

D id 10 nary of Plants. 2 g i

air is gradually admitted. When the plants wliicli were
placed singly have filled the pot with roots, or when those
pricked out have attained a fair size, the former are potted on
into 4|in. and the latter into Sin. pots, and they are then
put in a cold frame, but kept close for a week or ten days
to prevent them from receiving a check. "When they have
again filled the pots with roots they are again transferred
respectively, the one into their blooming, and the other
into 4|in. pots, these last having to be again shifted
when the pots are full of roots. The plants are kept in a
cold frame until well into October, when they are removed
into the greenhouse, where a temperatm*e of 45deg. or 50deg.
causes them to bloom for a long time. At no time during
their growth are they allowed to become dry at the roots,
nor yet to become infested with insects, or failure is sure
to result. It is also of much importance that the foliage
be kept as short and healthy as possible, as long spindly
leaves cause the blossoms to be hidden in a basin, as it were,
instead of standing prominently above the foliage, as they
should do to show to the greatest advantage. To ensure this,
due attention must be paid to admitting air, &c., and, during
the hottest part of the season, the plants may with advantage
be stood in frames facing the north-west, as then the hottest
rays of the sun will not reach them. Like most of the Primulas,
P. sinensis (Fig. 109) and its varieties suffer much from a hot
arid atmosphere, the majority of them requiring a somewhat
moist condition while growing. When in the greenhouse
during the winter season this must be nearly reversed, as then
the fullest light must be afforded, and the house must be dry,
or it is not at all improbable that the plants will damp off.
Water must, of course, be given as required, but it will be
found that less will be necessary than during the growing
period.

It is necessary always to supply a good amount of drainage
to the pots, and to vary the fineness of the soil according
to the size of the pot. Thus, in a small one the soil should
be much finer than in a larger, and, generally speaking, moi'e
sand will be requisite in the earlier stages of growth thyLp,-

u2 •

292 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

later ou. On no account should liquid manure be given,
or the result prol^ably will be tliat the plants will rot oil'
at tlie collars, or disease will set in and cause failure to
a greater or less extent. For compost use about three parts
good fibrous maiden loam, in a good mellow state, and ono
part cow manure and leaf soil in equal parts, both of which
must be thoroughly rotten. To this add enough sharp silver
sand to keep the whole open. But in this preparation of
compost a little judgment has to be used, as some soils differ
in texture to a great extent, and therefore it is necessary
to vary the proportions.

We do not advise the keeping of Primulas of this section
more than one season, as they do not repay the trouble the
second year.

Double Primulas of the old variety are very troublesomo
subjects, and, unless proper accommodation for their culture
exists, we do not advise their being taken in hand. Of course.
for market purposes they pay a successful grower, but they
do not pay the amateur for his trouble. The way they
are successfully grown is as follows : The plants are broken
up in April or May, and after each piece has been planted in a
small liO-sized pot, they are placed in a brisk bottom heat,
with a rather moist atmosphere. When well rooted, they
are shifted into 4iu. pots, and put back into the place
whence they were taken until they are well established.
When this is accomplished, they are removed into a more
airy position, and placed as close to the glass as possible
without actually touching it, and a certain amount of air i&
given to prevent them becoming too weak and spindly.

In potting, care must be taken that the plants are set sufS-
ciently deep, or they will rot off at the collar. They should
be buried to the base of the lower leaves, but not deeper, and
if other points are properly carried out success is almost
certain. Water must be carefully and not too abundantly
supplied until the roots have taken good hold of the soil, but
then the soil must not get dry, although at no time should it
be soddened. The plants may be potted on until they reach
6in. or Sin. pots, according to their strength, in wliich sizes-

Dictionary of Plants. 293

they BLoiild bloom. It is also advisable to apply a slight
shade tbi'ough the very hottest weather, Ijut this must not
be overdone, or a great loss of strength will ensue. Dunng
the autumn and winter the plants should stand in a light
jiiry house, somewliat near the glass, and a temperature of
iibout oOdeg. or 5odeg. should be maintained, combined with a
medium treatment, the plants being neither hurried nor allowed
to stand still. Stagnant moisture should be carefully avoided,
and air admitted according to the weather ; but in any case a
■close, heavy, stagnant atmosphere should be guard»,'d against,
<is it tends to render the plants more liable to rot off.

For compost, use three parts maiden loam, as recommended
before, one part peat, and one or two i^arts leaf soil, with a
liberal allowance of sharp sand. If, as sometimes happens*
the loam is rather poor, a little decomposed cow manure may
be added; but this is a matter that can only be decided on
the spot. Plenty of drainage must be afforded, or the plants
are sure to rot oft*.

Propagated from cuttings as derjcribed above.

Pyrethrum aurenni. — Hardy annual. Grown for its foliage.
i.Iinimum temperature, 36deg. This plant, which is so largely
grown for its golden foliage, and which is used so extensively in
bedding, is best raised from seeds sown in a gentle bottom
heat in February, and when large enough pricked off into boxes.
Harden off in May, and plant out where it is to remain. If
X>ref erred, the young jjlants can be put singly into pots, and
grown on in warm frames ; but, except where large ones are
needed, we fail to see any advantage in the plan, as those
pricked out about two inches j:yoart in boxes will be strong
enough for all practical pui-poses.

Propagated by seeds as described above.

- ■->*^;fc«^v^ —

294 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

EINECKIA.— Greenliouse soft- wooded
plant. Grown for its foliage. Minimum
temperature, 38deg. Reineckia carnea va-
riegata is a graceful little fine-foliaged green-
liouse plant ; the ovate leaves are variegated,
one-lialf the leaf being white and the other
half green. The plant is of comparatively easy
culture, and does not attain to any large size.
We have generally grown it in the greenhouse
for the whole year, and with the exception of keeping it well
watered and attended as occasion required, have experienced
no difficulty in its culture. A good compost of sandy loam
and peat, and some sharp sand if necessary, is what we use,
and of course a sufficiency of drainage is requisite. The
plant is easily propagated by means of cuttings inserted in very
sandy compost, and placed in a gentle bottom heat. When
rooted the cuttings are potted off singly into small pots, and
returned to the frame until the roots have taken possession of
the soil, and then they can be hardened off somewhat, and
placed in the greenhouse. Dui'ing winter the plant can be kept
growing, and presents a pretty appearance. If in a cool house
it must be treated as a perennial of doubtful hardiness, as it is
hardy only in some parts of the United Kingdom. For general
work it can be done well in the manner described, and doubtful
as it may appear to many, appears to thrive with the treatment
given.
Propagated by cuttings as described above.

nhodanthe. — Tender annual. Grown for its flowers. Mini-
mum temperatui'e, 40deg. As summer decorative plants the
Rhodanthes hold a deservedly high place, as they are light and
elegant in habit, and of pleasing colours. The flower is what is
termed an everlasting, and, like other plants of this class, can be
advantageously used for winter bouquets, provided they are cut
and di'ied in a proper manner. For various bouquets the blooms

Dictionary of Plants. 295

also come in useful, and in those for buttonholes nothing looks
prettier if combined with other blossoms in a judicious manner.
The blooms being rather tassel-like, and pendent or drooping,
combine well with more erect subjects, and the colours also have
the same advantage. The culture is very simple, so simple,
indeed, that it is a matter of surprise to us that this plant
is not more extensively grown by amateui's. With some of the
metropolitan nurserymen, however, the case is different, as
they find them very profitable, Mr. Mailer, of Tottenham, alone
selling from 10,000 to 15,000 each season, according to the space
he can devote to them. The seeds are sown in February and
March successionally, in well- drained wide-mouthed pans with
soil having a rich light compost, rendered porous by the
addition of a fair quantity of sand. These pans should be
placed in a moist gentle bottom heat, and when large enough
the plants should be potted off five or six in a 4in. pot, in
good, light, rich soil, and gradually inured to the greenhouse,
which should be light and cool, or they will become drawn.
If fair treatment is given, they will flower in May and
June, well repaying the trouble bestowed on them. The
ordinary treatment given to other soft wooded plants is all
that is necessary.

Propagated by seeds as described above.

For sorts, use jK. Manglesii, rose ; R. atro-sanguinea, crimson ;
A. maculata, rose and yellow; and B. maculata alba, white, all
of which are very pretty and useful.

Rhododendron. — Nearly hardy, hard wooded shrub. Grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. The green-
house varieties of these plants are very beautiful, their large
somewhat laurel-like leaves, and great terminal clusters of
azalea-like flowers, being splendid, and, by using a little care
in their selection, a fine and varied display can be had with
no very great amount of labour. Of course, with all plants
used in indoor work there is more or less trouble, but with
rhododendrons this is small compared with the results obtained.
In the first place, it is necessary that plenty of root room
be afforded, for although not rooting so vigorously as many

296 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs*

other plants, tliese do not succeed well if mucb. cramped
for space. The best plan, where space exists, is to plant
them out in the borders of a conservatory, and then their
full beauty is obtained. Good sound fibrous peat will be
found the best soil, to which should be added enough sharp
silver sand to keep it well open, as the soil cannot be removed

^K_r^^

i['im^. ] ji^fM

"mi . '■■ "

Fig. 110.— Rhododendron Ponticch.

from amongst the roots, the close fibrous nature of which
causes them to form solid balls, and of these the whole or
partial destruction would cause the death of the plant, or loss
of the greater part of the foliage — a great point with expensive
varieties. As rhododendrons only require the exclusion of frost,
a cold house is all that is necessary; but many of the sorts
force well, and a large conservatory that it is desired to keep

Dictionary of Plants. 297

well furuislied "with as little fire lieat as possible is as good
a place as any for tlie reception of these. As a rule, tliev
should be re-potted every year, as soon as they have ceased
blooming, not receiving more than a 2in. shift; press, or rather
ram, the soil down hard by the side of the old soil, or the water
will escape by the sides of the pots, and, as a consequence, the
plants will become dry, and, if the evil is not rectified in time,
they will soon die, or become injured irreparably. By using a
little care in training, it is quite easy to maintain the plants
in good form without much pruning or cutting back, which^
unless the plants are very straggling, should not often be
resorted to, other than to reduce > their size should it become
too large. At no time must the plants get dry, although the
supply of water should be diminished in winter, but, during the
growing season, almost unlimited supplies should be given. For
this reason plenty of drainage should be allowed, or in many
cases the soil will become sour and stagnant, and the plants
necessarily suffer.

Propagation is by grafting on stocks of some inferior kind,
but this is quite out of reach of the general amateur.

For sorts, the following will be found a good selection, and
will, doubtless, please anyone choosing from it : R. Princess
Ptoyal, rich rose ; JK. argenteiim, white, black spots ; R.
Falconerii, creamy white ; R. Countess of Haddington, blush
white; R. cainjjijlocarpum, primrose yellow; R. ciliatum, blush
and white ; R. Dalhousie, blush white ; R. Dennisonii, white,
lemon throat; R. Edgicorthii, white; R.fragrantissimum, white,
shaded blush; R. faJgens, crimson scarlet; R. Gihsonii, blush
white; R. jasminijioriim, white; R. Javanicum angustifolium,
orange yellow; R. McNabii, blush ; R. Nuitallii, white; R. Ron-
ticum, purple (Fig. 110) ; R. Prince of Wales, reddish orange ;
R. Princess Alice, blush white ; R. Princess Helena, soft
pink; R. Princess Mary, white; R. tuhijlorum, dark reddish
purple; R. retusiim, reddish orange; R. Veitchianum, white,
yellow base ; R. virgatum, white. This last is most remarkable
from its being the only one having axillary flowers; but all the
others are desirable either for their blooms or scent, which
latter in some kinds is very fine.

298 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,
Richardia.-See " Calla."

Ricinus. — Half-hardy animal. Grown for its foliage.
Minimum temperature, 40deg. The Castor Oil Plant is very
useful in tlie sub-tropical garden, and also in the conservatory as
a fine foliaged plant, its large palmate leaves iDeing very
effective, especially wlien the plants are grown with one stem
from two to four feet high, and, as it is of easy culture, there is
no reason why it should not be grown for both purposes where
space permits. The culture is of the simplest, as the plants
will grow in any ordinarily good soil, and when grown in pots,
a fairly rich free compost is all that is necessary, provided a good
drainage is afforded. The seeds should be sown on a good
bottom heat in March, and in the greenhouse in June, if
plants are required late in the season for indoor use, as, for
purposes of house decoration, they look better in a brisk
growing state than when fully grown. We prefer to sow the
seeds singly in small pots, and when large enough to transfer
into 4in. pots, whence the plants can be permanently removed
into Gin. or Sin. pots, as may be preferred, but at the same
time they do best in the larger sizes. The earlier sown
should be shifted into the greenhouse as soon as the first pair
of leaves — ^not the seed leaves — are fully expanded, and can
be grown on steadily, so as to be good plants to put out
in June, while the second batch can be grown on in the frames,
or outdoors until the end of September, when they can be
taken indoors. It will be found necessary to give liberal
supplies of water, and an occasional dose of manure in a
liquid state. In other respects the treatment is the same as
for the tobacco plant.

Propagated from seeds, as described above.

For sorts, use JS. communis major, buff' ; R. sanguineus, red ;
R. variabilis splendens, various ; and R. viridus, green. As
companion plants to cannas and other stately subjects, the
Ricinus are very fine.

Kochea. — Greenhouse succulent soft-wooded plant. Grown
for its flowers. Minimum temperature, 38deg. R. falcata

Dictionary of Plants. 299

is a nice, highly ornamental succulent, producing large Leads
of scarlet flowers, somewhat like the Kalosanthes, which the
whole plant somewhat resembles, and it contrasts well with the
fresh green colour of ferns, &c. As the plants can be had well in
bloom in August, they are very useful, and if kept dwarf can be
placed almost anywhere in decorating. It is this dwarfness
that renders them so useful, and therefore it is necessary to
use all possible means to obtain it. It is best done by keeping
the plants near the glass during their growth, and this alone
will cause them to be dwarf. "We have generally given the
plants the same treatment as kalosanthes, and we have found
it to answer very fairly, so we must refer our readers to that
head for the cultural directions. Bochea falcata is also very
useful for window garden culture, and therefore young plants
are generally much valued.

The mode of propagation is very easy, and in no essential
point varies from that of pachyphytum. Of course, it is really
necessary that only mature leaves be used for the purpose,
and that they be perfect. The young plants should be placed
as near the glass as possible after pottiug, and at all times
care should be taken that they do not draw up too high, or
all their beauty will be lost. With all succulents of this
nature it is desirable to maintain the plants as dwarf as possible
consistent with their habit, as bare stems are not beautiful.

Roellia. — Hard-wooded greenhouse plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 45deg. Boellia ciliata, from
its peculiar appearance both of foliage and bloom, is worthy a
place in all collections of hard-wooded plants, and, as it is quite
distinct from the generality of greenhouse hard-wooded stock,
it contrasts favourably with all of them. It is not a plant
that is inclined to make over large specimens, or to outgrow
the space allotted to it. For decorative purposes it is
extremely effective, its distinct purple-tipped white blooms,
about an inch across, and much resembling those of the
petunia in form, almost covering the surface of the plant,
and quite hiding the rusty appearance of the ovate foliage,
which is the chief drawback to the general beauty of the

300 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Roellia ■u^lien out of bloom. In no case must this plant
be subjected to cold treatment, as that simply means an
earlier or later deatli from mildew. A minimum temperature of
45deg. or SOdeg. must be maintained in winter without sun heat,
and the j)l^iits must be kept near the glass, as they are
essentially light-loving subjects, and must not be shaded at any
time, either by shading the glass or by placing tall plants over
them, or their great enemy, mildew, will soon j^ut in an
appearance and cause destruction. Plenty of drainage must
be afforded, and for soil, use good fibrous peat, with about one-
sixth part of sand added, potting moderately firm, as it is a
rather free-rooting subject, much more so than would be
generally supposed from its apparently weak habit. The best
time to commence the culture of the Roellia is about the
Ijeginning of March. Obtain healthy plants in 6in. x^ots, make a
shift into pots 2in. larger, and, as before mentioned, give plenty
of drainage, and pot moderately firm. As this is a j^lant that
requires training, a sufhciency of sticks should be j)ut round the
edge of the pot in the new soil to avoid damaging the roots,
and to these sticks the shoots should be trained as much as
possible. Care must be taken to remove the blooms as soon as
they appear, and this is about all the xDruning the plants will
require, as they are very regular growers. Admit no side air
for two or three weeks, and damp the stage on which the plants
stand, but on no account must there be syringing overhead.
Attention must also be paid to watering ; give water only
when they require it, and then give sufficient to pass through
the pots, for, like most of the plants from the Cape, these do
not like an indiscriminate supply of water, too much moisture
at the roots causing bad health. Keep the plants in an airy,
light house, near the glass, and during the spring and early
summer months close early in the afternoon to retain the sun
heat as much as possible. During the summer give plenty of
air during the daytime, and wet the stages and pots, but not the
foliage, as the latter would tend to make the j)lants more readily
susceptible to the attacks of mildew. About the middle of
Aup-ust leave air on all night, and keep them quite cool until
October, after which close the house at night or the plants will

Dictionary of Plants. 301

be cliillecl. E,emove all bloom buds as soon as formed, as it is
not well to let the plants exhaust themselves in blooming the
first season. Place tlirough the winter near the glass, in a
house where the temperature is not less than 45deg. at night,
and keep the plants neatly trained out and tied. This is
necessary, as the plant, being naturally of a procumbent habit,
soon forms an unsightly straggling mass if left to grow as it
pleases. About March re-pot and treat as before if exhibition
plants are required, but if they are required for decoration only,
let them bloom, which they will do freely if permitted; after
blooming proceed as before described, and each year repeat the
same treatment. The E^oellia does not require to be placed out
of doors during the summer, but rather the reverse, as cold or
cutting winds cause a more rusty appearance, and do the plant
no good. Mildew is the chief foe to be combated ; for its
better prevention all dead flowers and leaves must be kept
removed; and for a cure, flowers of sulphur must be freely
applied on its first appearance. The only insect that will live
on the E-oellia is brown scale, and that can be easily kept under
by the aid of a small brush, as it does not increase very fast.

Hose. — Hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 36deg. Roses are among the most
Ijeautiful of the hardy subjects, and as they are of very easy
culture indoors they should be well represented. Whether
the house is heated or not, roses can be well grown in it
if proper treatment and sufficient light be given; but it is
not possible to bloom them well in a dark house. It is
also almost, if not quite, impossible, to obtain any bloom
if the plants become encrusted with insects ; and to this point
particular attention has to be paid, as on it the chance of
ultimate success principally depends. Of course, other points
have to be attended to, but the destruction of insects is
one of the most important, as, however good the other treat-
ment may be, if this is neglected, no good results can be
obtained.

It is desirable that roses to be bloomed indoors should be well
established in pots before they are brought in ; and, indeed, it is

302 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

better if they have been so grown a couple of seasons before
housing, as then they thrive the more. The method of potting
and growing in pots will be found fully described in the E-ev. J. H.
D'Ombrain's " Roses for Amateurs."* It is necessary in growing
roses indoors that plenty of drainage be afforded, and also
that a rich and porous soil be used, as the amount of water

Fig, 111.— Crested Moss Eose.

that has necessarily to be given is apt to turn a close soil
sour, and to render it unfit for the use of plants.

Roses can also be profitably employed to cover the interior
of the roofs of conservatories or greenhouses ; and for this

* " Roses for Amateurs : A Practical Guide to the Selection and Cultivation of the best
Roses, both for Exhibition or mere Pleasure." By the Rev. J. Honywood D'Ombrain,
Hon. Sec, of the National Rose Society. Illustrated, Post free. Is. (London : L. Upcott
Gill, 170. Strand.)

Dictionary of Plants.

303

pui'pose tliey can be planted out, either in inside or outside
borders, in the same manner as vines, or they can be grown in
large pots or tubs. The best plan, however, is to plant them out
in a cool house, where light and ventilation are well provided,
and then by judicious treatment a splendid harvest of bloom
will be obtained with but little trouble.
Just as the plants may be required early or late so must

Fig. 112.— Bourboji Eosk.

the time vary for bringing them indoors, and due allowance
must also be made for the temperature of the house. In no
case should the plants be exposed to frost, but previous to
bringing them in they should be kept in frames, and then they
will be found to thrive far better.

Carefully prune the bushes and introduce them to a house

304 Greenhouse Management for A?7tafeiirs.

where tlie tem_^'erature is about 45(ieg. to 50deg. ; keep the
soil just moist until they hreak into growth, and then apply
water according to development and to outside weather ; when
"bright sunshine prevails, more moisture is requisite than when
it is dull and cloudy. The breaks or shoots should be

Fig. 113.— Noisette Eosb.

reduced to from four to twelve of the strongest, according to the
size of the bushes, and these should be carefully trained out so
that both light and air are freely admitted to all parts of the
foliage. Great care must be taken to prevent mildew, but
should it appear, flowers of sulphur should be at once applied
and syringed off at the end of twenty-four hours with water
of the same temperature as the house; or Ewing's Mildew

Dictionary of Plants.

305

Composition should be applied. G-reen fly must also be removed
as soon as it appears, and tliis is best effected by the use of a
small brush, say a stifE camel-hair pencil. Plenty of light is
an absolute necessity, and air should be given more or less at
every favourable opportunity.

"When the plants cease blooming they should be removed to
the frames until such time as they can be safely plunged

Fig, 114.— Tea Rose.

outdoors, and great care must be taken throughout the growing
season to cause them to make fine ripe wood, as on this the next
year's bloom depends. In all cases it is absolutely necessary
to remove insects, to keep the plants regularly and uniformly
supplied with a sufficiency of moisture, and to treat as recom-
mended above. Roses are essentially hardy plants, and must be
60 managred.

3o6

Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

Propagated by budding or grafting on stocks of tlie "wild
briar, or on 'Rosa manetti. Full directions for tbis process are
given in the book just referred to, also on raising young plants
from cuttings.

The chief types of roses are: The Moss, Bourbon, Noisette, and
Tea; and of these we give illustrations (Figs. Ill, 112, 113, 114).

Amongst the sorts that are of most service in the house are —
Marechal Kiel, bright yellow; Celine Forestier, deep canary
yellow ; Devoniensis, creamy white ; Gloire de Dijon, buff,
orange centre ; Niphetos, white, pale straw yellow centre, buds
very useful ; Saf rano, bright apricot, like the last, very fine in
the bud ; Souvenir de la Malmaison, blush, flesh centre ; Yictor
Yerdier, deep carmine; Senateur Yaisse, dazzling red; Prince
Camille de Rohan, deep lurid crimson ; Madame Yictor Yerdier,
cherry rose ; Madame Gustave Bonnet, pure white, shaded
carmine ; Jules Margottin, glossy pink ; Geant des Batailles,
crimson ; Baronne de Maynard, pure white ; and Madame
Plantier, pure white, which are all useful for the above purpose,
and, as we have grown them ourselves, we can recommend them
with confidence. The fairy roses also are very useful, and re-
quire practically the same treatment.

'ALVIA. — Half-hardy, soft-wooded, plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum tem-
perature, 36deg. Salvias are plants which,
from their beauty and easy culture, are
well suited to the wants of the amateur,
and, as most of them are grown as easily
as a chrysanthemum, there is no excuse for
not cultivating them. Some of the colours are
very bright and attractive, and the scarlet /S.
coccinea and blue S. i:)atens are very fine if grown well. Indeed,
we believe that there is no blue flower to excel 8. patens (which
is shown in Fig. 115), for either purity or brightness. S. Roe-

Dictionary of Plants. 307

meriana is a nice dwarf crimson variety, rarely exceeding 6in.
in lieiglit, and, when well bloomed, the plants are very pretty.
Salvias can be raised from seeds very easily, but, when a good
vaiiety is at hand, it is the more politic course to propagate
by cuttings, as then the plants are certain to bloom as well as
the parent, whereas with seedlings this cannot certainly be
depended on, as in nearly all cases some variation from the
parent plant ensues, and, although this may be of some
advantage in perhaps a few plants, it is more generally a
disadvantage, as some trifling defect, such as taller growth,
duller colour, or perhaps not quite so floriferous a habit, will
quite spoil the effectiveness of a lot of seedlings.

For decorative purposes Salvias come in very useful, as their
spikes of sage-like blooms, when cut, can be worked in for many
purposes, and the plants, when well grown in pots, are very
effective for table and room decoration, but more XDarticularly
the latter. The objection to them for this purpose is that they
exhale a disagi'eeable perfume if they are in the least crushed.
As bedding plants, too, they are very useful if the soil is of the
right sort, but in some soils the sage-like foliage will be more
conspicuous than the flowers, and this is not very desirable in
bedding plants.

The propagation by seeds is a very simple affair, so long as
the seeds are good, but, if too old, very few will germinate, and
the result will be a comparative failure. In fact, we have more
than once suffered disappointment from this cause, and should
therefore advise readers to save their own seed, or to purchase
only of good firms. "We have always found it the easiest plan,
when raising plants from seeds, to sow them on sandy soil in
well-drained pots, and to place these pots in a gentle bottom
heat, keeping the soil uniformly moist, but not soddened with
wet. As soon as the plants are in rough leaf they should be
potted off into small pots and returned to the bed, and, as soon
as the roots have t^ken possession of the soil, the plants should
be gradually hardened off, and afterwards treated as rooted
cuttings.

Cuttings should be made in March, and inserted in pots of
sandy soil, having plenty of drainage ; these pots should then

3o8 Greenhouse Management for A mateurs.

hP Placed in a gentle bottom heat, and if the ordinary rules for
^rltfclLL of tMs class he carefully attended to, they will

striking cuttings

Fig. 115.— Salvia Patens.

nearly all do .eU^ Of ^^:^^X^Z pXnt!
;:::r;~--"'---^-^ ^ .r^er percentage

Dictionary of Plants. 309

may be fairly expected. When tlie cuttings are rooted they
should be potted off into small pots, in a light sandy loam, and
when the plants are established in their new quarters they
should have treatment suited to their requirements. We do not
recommend striking cuttings late in the season for winter work,
for which purpose we prefer to treat the plants as described
further on.

Plants for bedding purposes should be got into 48-sized pots
as soon as the roots kiss the sides of the small ones, and the
compost used should be a rich sandy loam, to which has been
added some leaf soil or thoroughly decayed manure. They
should be kept in a genial growing atmosphere, and such an
amount of water applied as may be found necessary for their
steady growth. Such plants as are inclined to run up too
spindly should be stopped, to induce them to break freely and
form bushy specimens, about 2ft. high, as these are most useful
for bedding purposes. They should be gradually hardened off
somewhat before planting outdoors, which should be done at the
usual time.

Such plants as are to remain in pots for the season should be
placed in a cold frame in May, and, as soon as necessary, re-
potted into Gin. or Sin. pots, and kept close for a day or two. Heed
must be given to stopping and training, so as to cause the plants
to assume a nice pyramidal form, and also to prevent them from
blooming ; and the best j)reventive for this is not to allow the
plants to become pot-bound or dry at the roots. About August
they should be re-potted into Sin. or lOin. pots, as may be
necessary, and pinching the points of the shoots must still be
adhered to to prevent the formation of bloom, but about the
third week in the month this should be discontinued, or the
object of obtaining bloom during the winter will be frustrated.
About the middle of September the bloom buds will commence
aiDpearing, that is, if the plants are sufficiently potbound, and
then it is advisable that liquid manure — preferably sulphate of
ammonia — should be given once a week. About the end of
September the plants should be removed to their winter
quarters in a light airy greenhouse, where a temperature of
about 45deg. can be maintained, and by watering with liquid

310 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

manure from once to three or four times a week, according to
the season, large quantities of bloom will be obtained. In
growing plants in pots it is necessary to plunge them in a bed
of ashes outdoors, from the end of June to the end of August,
and it is needless to add that it is necessary to supply water in
abundance during the hot weather. Frequent syi'ingings will
also be found necessary to keep down red spider, and the foliage
must be wetted underneath as well as on the top. Although the
foregoing is a good plan, we do not think that the plants do so
well as when treated as described below.

Good thrifty plants should be chosen about the first week of
June, and these should be planted out 3ft. or 4ft. asunder in rich
soil in the kitchen garden, and care must be taken to get them
in good form by pinching and training, as described above. A
pyi-amidal form is the best, as it causes a greater display of
bloom, and as a rule exposes the whole surface of the plant to
light, a matter of much importance to plants of this description
which are required to bloom in winter. During the season the
soil should be often cut down at a distance of about Sin. from
the stem of the plant to sever the roots, and so cause the pro-
duction of a ball of fil^rous roots, a point of the greatest import-
ance. Plenty of water is necessary during the hot weather, and
syringing must not be forgotten, or in sandy poor soil red spider
will be very abimdant. The last pinching should be given about
the first week in August, and early in September the plants
should be carefully taken up and placed in well-drained pots,
boxes, or tubs, so that the roots are disturbed or reduced as
little as possible. The interstices should be fimily filled in with
good sandy soil, and the plants well watered to settle the roots.
They should then be placed in a frame and kept close for a few
days, and then removed to the house where they are to bloom.
Old plants from the beds, if showing plenty of unexpanded
buds, can also be treated in the same way. Old plants should be
cut down, potted, and wintered in a shed, or any place where
frost cannot reach, and if started in the greenhouse in February
will afford plenty of cuttings. When they break again they
can be divided, and then make good border plants.

Propagated by seeds or cuttings as described above.

Dictionary of Plants. 31 1

For sorts, S. patens, blue; S. coccinea, scarlet; S. c. pumila,
scarlet; S. splendens, scarlet; S. BoUviensis verticulata,
scarlet; and S. Heerii, scarlet, are best suited for house
decoration in winter; and S. hicolor, blue and wiiite; S.
Boemenana, scarlet; and S. fulgens, dull scarlet, for bedding
purposes ; but, at the same time, some of the hardy kinds are
very useful.

Sarracenia. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its foliage. Minimum temperature, -lOdeg. Amongst the so-
called carnivorous plants, the Sarracenise hold a prominent
position, and as some of them are of easy culture, we give
them a place. The peculiar pitcher-like form of the leaves of
these plants is the inducement to grow them, and this is
well represented with the flower in Fig. 116, but the form
of the pitchers varies with different kinds. The flowers are
somewhat poppy-shapped, as shown, and are not unhandsome.
One or two plants are very good in the greenhouse, as their
presence tends to increase the interest in the place. As with
a good many other things, it is, however, possible to have
too many of them, and therefore it is as well to restrict the
number to a few only, unless indeed they are grown to give
away. Most growers give too much heat, and from our ex-
perience of plants grown in the following manner, we rather
incline to a cool treatment. We have found a temperature of
40deg. to 45deg. through the winter, rising to about TOdeg.
in summer, to be quite enough to produce fine plants. S.
purpurea is quite hardy; in fact, we might truthfully say that
it is one of the hardiest exotic plants we have, standing in a
cold exposed wet bog all the year through, and luxuriating in
a position which would kill hundreds of our native plants.
At Glasnevin it usually stands outdoors in frost and snow,
and, according to some folks, seems to like the severe weather,
but, as with all other hardy plants, if grown indoors, care must
be taken that the pots do not become frozen, or the damage
done to the roots, which are, as a rule, just inside the pot,
and not protected by the soil around, will be very great. As
one of the so-called carnivorous plants, this Sarracenia is well

312 GreenJiouse Management for Afnafeurs.

wortL. growing. Of coiu'se, S. jou7'purea (Fig. 116) must be
omitted from the following cultural remarks.

Fig. 116.— Sarkacenia Purpurea.

The best compost is the following : Good fibrous peat, from
which the soil has been taken, and chopped sphagnum in about

Dictionary of Plants. 313

equal parts, to ■wliich should be added a fair amount of crocks
and charcoal, broken rather small, and a liberal sprinkling of
sand. In potting, use either Matthews' orchid pots or pots about
half filled with crocks, so that plenty of drainage may be
afforded, as these plants require large quantities of water to
grow them well. "With the exception of Q. Drummondii alba
and 8. D, rubra, which should be re-potted in July, all the
plants should be re-potted in February, the old soil being
carefully removed. Pot moderately firm in such a manner that
the creeping growths are just above the compost. Water
must be api^lied daily as the plants come into full growth,
sufficient to soak the soil being given at each watering. The
plants should be stood on a shelf near the glass on the south
side of the house, and the shelf should be covered with about
an inch of charcoal or other absorbent substance. This layer
should be soaked with water once or twice a day to maintain
a somewhat humid atmosphere around the plants, as it is not
advisable to syringe them. As the growth is ripening, less
water should be given ; and, during the time they are at rest
water applied twice a week is ample. S. ^purpurea can be
successfully grown in a cool house, or in a house not heated,
but where frost is excluded; and the same general treatment,
except temperature, may be given as for the others. The
plants of this species can also be syringed with advantage;
in fact, it is almost an aquatic.

Scale is the chief insect enemy that affects Sarracenias, and
great care must be taken that they are destroyed as soon as
they appear, or most disastrous results are almost sure to
follow. A sharp watch must also be kept for other insects,
thrips in particular, as they do much harm.

S. Drummondii alba, white; S. Drummondii rubra, I'ed; 8.
psittacina, pinkish lilac ; and 8. purpurea, purple, are all good
and interesting, and are, perhaps, as easy to grow as any.
For the amateur, these plants are well suited, as they are
both curious and beautiful.

Saxifraga. — Hardy, herbaceous, soft-wooded plant. Grown
for both foliage and flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots),

314 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

3odeg. One of the Saxifrages, iS. sartnentosa, is very pretty as a
hanging basket plant, and is, moreover, very easy to grow, its
almost round, hairy, reddish veined leaves, and spikes of nearly
white flowers, being very effective when the plant is suspended in
a basket. The chief point is to keep it well supplied with water
while it is in full growth, and to use a compost of about two-
thirds sandy loam and one-third leaf soil and sharp sand
mixed. A good sprinkling of broken sandstone or brick should
be added to the compost, and plenty of drainage should be
afforded. Provided the plants are kept well supplied with
water, and have an occasional dose of liquid manure when in
active growth, they will make fine specimens in a very short
time. Re-iDotting once a year as soon as they have bloomed
will keep them in good fettle for many years. They are
easily propagated from the numerous offsets, pegging them
down on a pot of soil being sufficient. The colour of the
flower is rosy white, or its general appearance favours that
impression.

Propagated by division of the rooted runners, as with straw-
berries.

Schizanthus. — Half-hardy annual. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 45deg. This is a handsome half-hardy
annual of easy culture, suitable alike for both outdoor and
greenhouse decoration, bearing an abundance of bloom (Fig.
117), and of bright colour and rather tall habit, rendering the
plants very useful in their season. When well grown, either
singly in 4in. pots, or, what is better, three in a 6in. pot,
they are very effective, and the colours being very showy, they
form very noticeable subjects. The seeds should be sown on
a gentle bottom heat or in the greenhouse about March, or
even the middle of Febniary, but we have found March
early enough for all practical purposes, although, to suit
special places, the earlier time of sowing might be useful.
The seeds should be sown on fairly rich light soil, rendered
sufficiently porous by the addition of such a quantity of sharp
sand as may be necessary for the purpose. As soon as the
plants are large enough to handle they should be pricked

Dictionary of Plants.

315

off singly into small pots, and gradually hardened off, so that
they can be removed to the cold frame about the end of April.
When these pots are filled with roots
the plants should be shifted into
their blooming pots, and care taken
that they have sufficient drainage,
and that the soil is rich enough to
sustain them in good foliage. As
soon as the weather admits, they
should have full exposure, and should
be treated as other pot plants; as
the pots become filled with roots,
weak liquid manure should be applied
each alternate watering, and when
the bloom buds show colour, the
plants can be removed into a cool
light conservatory to bloom. Seeds
may be- saved on the best plants, but
it prolongs the bloom to keep the
seed vessels picked off, as the effort
used in producing seeds soon ex-
hausts the vigour of the plants.

Propagated by seeds, as described
above.

For sorts, select from S. Grahami
(Fig. 117), scarlet and orange ; S.
grandiflorus oculatis, purple and rose ;

S. oculatis pyramidalis, violet; S. innnatus, rosy purple; S. re-
tusus, rose and orange ; S. alb us, white and orange ; and S.
papilionaceus, spotted.

PlO. 117. — SCHIZANTHUS

Grahajii.

Scilla. — Hardy, soft- wooded, bulbous plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. Squills do
very nicely for cold-house work where early bloom is required,
and they can also be used in the warm greenhouse, but as
they do not thrive so well in the latter as in the former, it is
perhaps the better plan to devote them to the former class
of house only. The culture is of the simplest : potting the

3i6 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

bulbs tbe same as crocuses, and using the same kind of soil,
and, in fact, treating in the same manner as recommended
for those plants. Their hyacinth-like habit and pleasing hues
render them very useful as small decorative plants, and if the
blooms are wired and mounted like those of the hyacinth, they
work in well for table decorations and for bouquets, but more
particularly for buttonhole bouquets.

Fig. 118. — Scilla Campanulata Alba.

Propagated by division of the bulbs, which increase naturally.

S. bifolia, dark blue ; 8. campanulata alba, white (Fig. 118) ;
S. bifolia rosea, rose ; S. nivalis, pale blue ; S. Siberica, blue ; 8.
Peruviana, blue; 8. P. alba, white; 8. verna, blue; and 8.
nutans rosea, rose, are all gems for the cold house.

Sericographis. — Greenhouse hard-wooded shrub. Grown

D ictio na ry of Pla nts. 317

for its foliage. Minimum temperature, 45cleg. SericogQ-apliis
Ghieshreghtii is a plant tliat is suited to a wann conservatory
or greenhouse only ; but as it can be done very well with some
of the plants we have ali'eady mentioned, and as it is very
useful from a decorative point of view, we give the cultural
directions for it. Its fine feathery scarlet flowers are set off
to great advantage by the bright green shining leaves, and
from its comparatively easy culture it will be found very useful
where a little convenience exists to meet its requirements. In
the first place, it is necessary to get the growth on early,
that good useful plants shall be made during the summer,
and that they may have time to mature ere winter sets in.
As a general rule, late-struck plants do badly ; for as they do
not get thoroughly matured, they, as a matter of coui-se, do
not bloom at all, or, if they do, it is very poorly.

As soon as the plants have ceased blooming they should be
placed in a brisk and moist bottom heat for a week or two to get
them into free growth, when the tips of the shoots will strike
freely if properly treated. Cutting pots should be prepared by
half filling them with crocks on which a little coarse fibrous peat
should be laid, and then the pots should be nearly filled with
sharp propagating sand. The cuttings should be inserted about
an inch or so apart, round the sides of the pots, which should
have been thoroughly watered and drained previously to in-
serting the cuttings. These pots must be placed in a close
moist heat, when the cuttings will strike freely, after which
they should be potted off singly into small pots, and nursed
gently on in a moderate moist heat. We have done this
part of the process in an ordinary cucumber frame, where the
bed had become sweet, and the plants throve very well; but,
if a propagating frame exists in the greenhouse, it is best
to strike all cuttings therein. When well rooted the points
should be pinched out to induce a bushy growth, and, when
this has been attained, or, rather, when the young plants
have broken freely, they should be placed on a light, airy
sheK until the middle or end of May, when they should be
re-potted into 4in. pots, and gradually hardened off pre-
paratory to placing outdoors in a cold frame. The time

3i8 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

for putting tliem out would depend on tlie state of the
weather; well on into June will do if the season is hot,
but if cold the plants may remain for another week or so in
the house. When placed in the frames, the pots should be
plunged in half-spent leaves, and the plants should be sji-inged
once or twice daily, according to the weather. If treated
thus, and the frame is closed early, the plants can be finally
shifted into 6in. pots about the end of July. During September
the syringing should be gradually discontinued, and the frames
should be drawn off every fine day to harden off the plants
and induce a good supply of bloom. About the last week in
September they should be removed to a warm greenhouse,
and they will soon commence to bloom well. During winter
a temperature of 50deg. to 55deg. should be kept up. For soil,
use peat and loam in equal parts, with enough sand to keep
it open.
Propagated by cuttings struck in heat, as described above.

Snowdrop. — See " Galanthus."

Solanuni. — Half-hardy, soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
berries and flowers. Minimum temperature, 38deg. The
hybrids of this are very interesting, and, as they are best
treated as soft-wooded plants, or, at least, like seedling stocks,
we give our method of treatment. About June we sow seeds in
•sandy soil, placing the pans in a cold frame. The seeds are
eown thinly and evenly over the surface of the soil, and the
pans are well drained, as the seed is often a long time in
germinating, and, consequently, it is necessary to prevent the
soil becoming water -logged, and thus destroying the seeds. As
soon as the plants are in rough leaf we pot them off into
thumbs, and, as the roots kiss the sides, we shift into large
sixties, where they stand the winter. For soil, we use two parts
loam, one part leaf soil, and one part rotten cow manure and
sharp sand, mixed.

The plants are taken in in the early part of the winter and
placed on a shelf near the glass, no more water being given than
really necessary, and being kept dormant. In spring, when they

Dictionary of Plants. 319

break, tliey are cut back closely, so as to make good busliy plants,
and in May tbey are put out into a ricb open spot in tbe kitcben
garden. Plenty of water is afforded if necessary, and tbe plants
are pincbed back in June and July, so as to cause tbem to make
a good busby growtb. Wben tbe berries begin to colour, or
about September, tbe plants are taken up, witbout injury to tbe
roots, and placed in pots of sufficient size to bold tbem properly.
Tbey are tben well watered, and kept close for a few days in a
sbaded — but not dark — frame, and tbence are removed to tbe
greenbouse, wbere tbey are very ornamental until growtb re-
commences. Sucb is about tbe easiest mode of culture, and
anyone baving a bouse from wbicb tbe frost is just excluded
can grow tbem well.

Anotber plan is to put in cuttings in April or May on a sligbt
bottom beat, and, as soon as rooted, to transfer tbem to Sin.
pots. As soon as tbe roots kiss tbe sides tbe plants sbould be
sbifted into 6in. pots, wbere tbey are to fruit. Tbey sbould
remain in frames at a temperature of about 60deg., and sbould
not want for water. In June tbe plants sbould be pincbed
back, so tbat tbey sball be of good sbape, and, if required, a
little training may be aitorded, but it is advisable to dispense
witb sticks and ties as mucb as possible, as tbe plants look far
better if grown in a natural manner. During tbe blooming
period plenty of air sbould be admitted, and every means sbould
be taken to prevent a cbeck. As soon as tbe berries are of good
size some of tbe plants sbould be taken indoors, and about
September tbe wbole of tbe stock sbould be boused, wben, if
properly cared for and in a ligbt sunny place, tbey will ripen
and retain tbeir berries for a long time.

Tbe soil we use is good sandy loam, to wbicb some tborougbly
rotted manure bas been added, togetber witb sufficient sbarp
sand to ensure porosity. Good drainage is, of course, necessary,
but tbese plants do not require so mucb as some otbers. Fumi-
gation will often be necessary to keep down fly, and outdoor
plants must be syringed witb some insecticide once or twice
in tbe season.

Propagated by seeds and cuttings as described above.

Tbe sorts we prefer are /S. capsicastrum or cerasiformis, S. c.

320 Greenhouse M anagement for Amateurs.

variegatu7n, Wetlierill's hybrids, and Henderson's Conical-fruited
Solanum, all of whicli are really good and useful. We may add
tliat in some parts of tlie country these Solanums are hardy, or
require only slight protection in winter, and they have a very
cheerful appearance until the berries fall.

8. jasminijlorum and S. j. variegatum are two very good
climbers for walls or trellises, and are interesting in appearance.
The culture is not very difficult, and although these plants do
best in the borders, still they can be done very well in pots. In
any case, plenty of di-ainage must be afforded, and a pretty fair
amount of root room. The soil should be loam and leaf soil in
about equal parts, and a good dash of sharp sand to keep the
whole open and sweet. Water should be given freely in the
growing season, and during the time when the plants are at
rest the soil should be allowed to become moderately (but not
dust) dry. Insects of all kinds must be kept under as pre-
viously directed. These species are best propagated from
cuttings as described above, and of course are not placed
outdoors as are the berry-bearing section such as S. cerasi-
forme and others of a like nature.

Solomon's Seal. — See " Polygonatum."

Sparniaunia. — Half-hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for *
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 36deg. This is a really
good cool-house shrub, that is nearly always in bloom. It,
however, attains a pretty good size, and therefore requires a
fairly high house to grow in. The blooms are produced in rich
masses, and are wliite in colour, the general appearance of both
flower and foliage being well shown in Fig. 119, therefore it is a
very valuable plant for use in large places; but comparatively
small plants give very good results. The best plan is to
stnke cuttings under bell glasses in a moist bottom heat in
February or March, and as soon as rooted to shift into small
pots, keeping in a warm light position until rooted well, when
they should be got into 4in. pots. When the plants are
about Sin. high take out the points so as to induce a bushy
growth. About June shift into Gin. or Sin. pots, and when rooted

Dictionary of Plants.

321

into the new soil, place in frames out of doors, gradually harden-
ing off. Bring in early in September and place in a light
position, and with care they will bloom well. Re-pot again in
March, using a mixture of peat and loam for the purpose,
adding just enough sand to keep the soil well open. Pruning
must be resorted to to obtain bushy plants. These shrubs also

Fig. 119.— Sparmannta Africana.

look well as standards, and well repay any trouble that may be
afforded them. The usual means must be taken to keep down
insects, which, however, are not very troublesome if the plants
are well managed. After the third or fourth potting the plants
should be allowed to get slightly potbound, and liquid manure
should be applied during the season of growth — a practice that

322 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

tends to encourage tlie formation of blooming wood. As a con-
tinuous blooming, cool house, or conservatory plant, this cannot
easily be surpassed.
Propagated from cuttings as described above.

Spiraea. — Hardy, herbaceous, soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 38deg. Spircea
japonica is one of those plants which, although hardy, or nearly
so, yet require special treatment if grown indoors. Its great
beauty and decorative value render it almost a necessity where
plants are required for table or window decoration, and there-
fore we give it a place as a greenhouse plant. The light
feathery spray of which the truss, or rather spike of blooms, is
composed, is also very useful for mixing in bouquets, for
button-holes, and for the decoration of vases and epergnes.
The entire plant, when well furnished with bloom, forms a
magnificent object for the dinner table, or for a specimen for
a solitary stand, as mil be seen in Fig. 120, while amongst
other plants the pearly whiteness of the feathery blooms and
the fresh green foliage -contrast well with darker and more
gorgeous neighbours.

The culture is, comparatively speaking, easy, and, unless it is
desired to have the plants in bloom very early, forcing need not
be resorted to. The way we bloom the imported clumps is as
follows : As soon as ripe clumps can be got, they are potted into
Sin. and 6in. pots, while any that are extra large, and that have
the largest number of blooming crowns, are potted off into
7in. or Sin. pots, according as they promise to cover them with
foliage. A good depth of drainage is allowed, from one to
three inches, according to the size of the pots. The clumps are
potted fairly firm in a compost of fibrous loam two parts, leaf
soil one part, and thoroughly decayed manui-e one part, with a
sufficient quantity of sharp silver sand to keep the whole
thoroughly permeable to water, as large supplies are neces-
sary during growth. As soon as potted, the plants are
put in a cold frame, and about the end of November they
are placed in a house at a temperature of 45deg. They
are well watered, and as soon as growth commences, stood

Dictionary of Plants,

323

near tlie glass, and water given as required. Plenty of light
is afforded, and care is taken to keep down insects. A
temperature of about 50deg. may be maintained when tbe
plants are in full foliage, and in this they will bloom. Other
batches should be brought in at intervals of three weeks or
a month until the end of March, and after that they can be
bloomed in a frame.

When the plants have ceased blooming, they should still be

Fig. 120.— SpiEiEA Japonica.

attended to with water, &c., and in April they should be care-
fully planted out on a rich border facing the south, well
watered to settle the soil around the roots, and in dry weather
subjected to liberal supplies of liquid manure and water.
About the end of August watering should be gradually dis-
continued, and when the plants have thoroughly ripened off in a
natural manner, they should be taken up and potted as we have
described.

Y 2

324 Greenhouse Manac^ement for Amateurs.

Where only a cold house exists, the plants should be kept in
a cold frame until February, and then they may be brought into
the house. With care in watering, &c., such as the natural
wants of the Spiraea require, very good results can be obtained,
although the bloom will be late. We have, however, had the
blooms finer in a cold house than where they have been forced ;
but, of course, the clumps used were really good. As a matter
of fact, there is no more trouble in growing Spiraeas than in
blooming a hyacinth ; and, indeed, we would rather grow
Spiraeas than geraniums, although the former are now far from
profitable in a marketable point of view. Several of the hardy
Spiraeas bloom very well in a cold house or frame ; but they are
not desirable plants in a dwelling-house, as thrips and green
fly are so very partial to them.

Propagated by division of the crowns or clumps.

Statice. — Greenhouse hard-woooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. The Statices are pre-
eminently suited for greenhouse culture or for exhibition, as
they combine a good habit with comparative ease of cultiva-
tion, although, like several other plants, 45deg. is quite as low
a temperature as they should be subjected to in winter, or no
great success will be attained. On no account must the plants
be rested, in the ordinary acceptation of the word, but must be
kept growing all the winter, or the results will be far from
desirable. Statices bear large heads of flowers of a papery
texture, which may nearly be classed with the everlastings, but,
strictly speaking, cannot be so considered. The calyx varies
from lilac to blue in different plants, and the corolla (which
soon drops off) is white ; the leaves, which are leathery in some of
the varieties, are 4in. or Sin. wide, and from Sin. to 12in. long.
The season of blooming varies, but with the following sorts, if
treated as we direct, the principal flowering stems will be
thrown up in spring, and a succession of side blooms will be
continued until autumn. At no time is it advisable to place
the plants out of doors, or to give full exposure to the sun;
they like a rather closer atmosphere than the generality of
hard-wooded plants; but they must not be kept too close

Dictionary of Plants.

325

or too far from the light, or success will not be attained.
S. profusa is about the best of its class, and the treatment for
this one applies to the whole family. Plants should be selected
in autumn which have been stopped at Sin. or 4in. from
the soil, and which have not been cramped up in small
pots, as these rarely do well. The reason of this is that

Fig. 121.— Statice Peofusa.

the Statices being very free rooting, get stunted if kept in
small pots for too long a time, and when this occurs they never
afterwards grow satisfactorily. During winter they should be on
a shelf near the light, and kept at a night temperature of about
45deg., by wliich means the roots will be kept active throughout
the time, a matter of much importance. They must not, of

326 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

course, be grown on at the same rate as they are in summer ; but
still growtb must not stop entirely if good results are desii-ed.
Early in March, the plants should be put into 9in. pots, in
good turfy yellow loam, with enough sharp sand to keep it open.
The soil must not be broken too fine, and the plants must be
potted firmly. Plenty of water must be given, and, consequently,
good drainage must be afforded, or the pots will get waterlogged,
and the plants will suffer in consequence. For a week or two
after potting, keep the plants rather close, and do not over- water;
and afterwards place in the light, near the glass, but away from
cold currents of air. Shade must be given to protect them
from hot sun, but it should not be kept on longer than needful.
Thoughout the summer syringe in the afternoon, being careful
to wet underneath the leaves, to keep down red spider, which
soon does inseparable mischief. During the first season it is
advisable to pick off the flower stems, which will be thrown up
all through the summer ; but the second season the first crop of
bloom may remain. In the hot sunny weather a bed of coal
ashes is preferable to a dry stage, for, in this latter case,
the large leaves afford so great a surface for evaporation that
the plants would frequently suffer from dryness. As autumn
approaches, discontinue the use of the syi'inge, and give more
air. Winter as before, and remove all bloom that may appear
before spring. In March give another shift as before, and let
them be similarly treated, but allow the blooms to open ; while
in bloom syringing should be discontinued, or the flowers will
damp off. The plants should not be out of the growing house
long, neither should the successional blooms be allowed to open
that year, but should be removed as they appear. The side
shoots should be carefully tied down, so as to form a nice base
to the plant, and care must be used not to split the shoots out,
as they are very brittle. Treat in the same manner each year
until the plants get into 24in. pots, when they may be kept in
good order for years by the use of liquid manure. After the
second year, unless they are intended for exhibition, they
may be allowed to bloom for their full season, but for show
purposes they should not bloom fully until in 18in. pots.
These plants are subject to red spider, thrip, and aphides. For

Dictionary of Plants. 327

tlie first the cold water cure should be applied, while, for the
two latter, fumigation is the only remedy.

Propagated from cuttings struck in sandy soil during the
warm months of the year in the greenhouse.

For sorts, select from the following, always having the first
two in a collection : Statice profusa (Fig. 121), 8. imhricata,
S. hrassiccefolia, 8. Solfordii, 8. macrophylla, 8. macroptera,
8. propinqua, 8. Rattrayana, and 8. sinuata. All are good and
useful, but the first two are the best for general work.

Stocks. — Half-hardy annuals. Grown for their flowers.
Minimum temperature, 40deg. Stocks, both Intermediate and
Ten-week, are almost necessities in the greenhouse during
the early part of the year, on account of their perfume, and,
as the blooms of the double varieties can be mounted with but
little trouble, they scent a bouquet vei*y nicely at any time
without causing any unpleasant after-effects, as is the case
with some other flowers. The culture is much the same,
whether the Ten-week or Intermediate varieties are chosen,
except that the former are sown in spring and the latter in
autumn. Ten-week Stocks should be sown in gentle heat in
January, and successionally until the end of April, and as soon
as the plants have their rough leaves they should be potted off ;
then, when the weather becomes sufficiently mild, they may be
transferred to the cold frames. When the pots get fairly filled
with roots, a shift into 4in. pots should be made, and any of
the plants which show single flowers may be destroyed at once,
unless the strain is very prolific of double flowers. Care must
be taken to keep the plants as close to the lights as possible,
to prevent their becoming drawn, or the beauty will be wholly
destroyed. Where they are to be used for bedding out only,
they should be turned out of the small pots and planted rather
thickly about the end of April, or early in May, if the weather
is sufficiently mild; a nice open spot should be chosen for the
bed and rich soil provided.

The best Ten-week Stocks are those supplied in collections
from Geitnany, but at times it is possible to obtain a good strain
of home-grown plants. As, however, there is no actual certainty

328 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

of their turning out good wlien obtained from this source, it
is by far tbe better plan to go in for German seed at once.

Intermediate Stocks have to stand the winter to obtain the
best results from them, and the treatment is, of course, some-
what different to that given to the Ten-week varieties, in so
far as the winter treatment is concerned. The seeds should
be sown in the latter end of August, and, as soon as the plants
are large enough, they should be potted off singly into Sin.
pots. Here they will remain for the winter until about the
end of February, when they should be transferred into 4in. or
Gin. pots. The plants must be wintered in cold frames, from
which frost is excluded, but to which air is admitted at all
favourable opportunities. During this time they must be
kept as dry as can be consistently allowed, and the frame in
which they are kept must also be dry, or they will rot off,
and the whole labour will be lost. As the plants commence
growth in spring, water must be applied as required, and they
should be turned round occasionally to keep the growth level.
Plenty of room must also be given to allow them to develop
fully, or they will have an appearance the reverse of elegant.
For soil we find that in the earlier stages of growth a good
maiden loam passed through a fin.-mesh sieve, and enough
sand added to render the whole freely porous, answers well;
and for the blooming pots nothing answers better than three
parts maiden loam and one part thoroughly decayed manure,
to which is added enough sand to render the soil permeable
to the water that is given. The soil for the blooming pots
should be passed through a lin.-mesh sieve only, as too close
a soil is not good for the plants ; but, of course, it is at the
same time necessary to use a suflB.cient quantity of finer soil
to fill the interstices, as the roots will not run in the larger
portions alone.

Yarious strains of intermediate Stocks exist, some being
good and some very inferior, and therefore it is desirable
that only the best shall be used. The colours are scarlet,
white and purple, which should be very clear and pure, but
at times a dull-coloured strain finds its way into the market.
The East Lothian varieties are a fine selection if obtained

Dictionary of Plants.

329

true, but risk always attends the purchase of seed unless a
good firm is dealt with.

Propagated by seeds, as described above.

The colours and shades of colour in the Ten-week varieties
are very varied, but the best are scarlet, crimson and purple,
the others, unless the strain is exceptionally good, being very
dingy. It is judicious, therefore, to purchase only of a first-
class seedsman.

IACSONIA. — Half-hardy hard-wooded
climber. Grown for its flowers. Minimum
temperature, 40deg. Tacsonias, which, in
flower, foliage, and habit, are closely al-
lied to the passion flowers, do well with
same general treatment, both as to culture and
training, &c. Of course, with these, as with
their congeners, variations will have to be made
in some minor details, but these will be readily seen. The
flowers of some of the Tacsonias are very beautiful, and will
commend themselves to the attention of most cultivators, where
they have plenty of roof room, such as a large warm conser-
vatory or a light greenhouse, and we should advise their use
amongst passion flowers.

Propagated by seeds, &c., in the same manner as passi-
floras.

For sorts, select from the following : T. Buchananii, T. ignea,
T. manicata, T. mollisima, T. sanguinea, and T. Van Volxemii.

Tagetes. — Half-hardy annual. Grown for its flowers. Mini-
mum temperature, 40deg. T. signata pumila takes the place
of the yellow calceolaria on soils where the latter will not
grow well, and we therefore give it a place here. It should
be sown on a gentle heat in March, and when large enough

330 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

potted off singly into small pots, and gradually hardened off to
plant out at tlie ordinary bedding season. "We cannot say
much for the plants when grown in pots, but in beds or
borders they answer their purpose very well. The colour is
bright yellow.

Propagated by seeds, as described above.

Tecoma. — Half-hardy hard- wooded climber. Grown for its
foliage principally. Minimum temperature, 38deg. This is
a plant that requires plenty of head room, and a large amount
of border in which to extend its roots. It is practically useless
in a small place, but where it has plenty of room it is an acqui-
sition. For soil use good fibrous peat, three parts, and sound
fibrous loam, one part, with a good admixture of sand. Plenty
of drainage must be afforded, as during the season liberal
supplies of water must be applied. The young shoots should
ramble at will, and not be trained to any foiTual pattern.
For the domes of large conservatories, and similar positions,
the Tecomas are very useful, bearing their trumpet- shaped
flowers in drooping bunches, which are freely borne amongst
the handsome foliage ; but, as we said before, they are of little
use for small places.

Propagated by seeds or layers, but as only a very few speci-
mens of this plant are needed, it is, as a rule, the better plan
to purchase from a nursery.

For sorts, the following are good : T. Capensis, T. jasminoides,
T. j. alba magna, T. j. rosea, and T. j. splendens.

Thalictrum. — Hardy, herbaceous, soft -wooded perennial.
Grown for its foliage. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg.
Of the rather large variety of Thalictrums one is very useful
in either the hot or cold house. T. minus is a plant having
foliage resembling to a great extent the maidenhair fern.
In the plant we more particularly desire to introduce to our
readers — T. adiantoides — this resemblance is still greater, and
where ferns cannot be done well it is extremely useful, as the
foliage is well adapted for the same uses as those to which
the fronds of the fems are put. The flowers of T. adiantoides

Dictionary of Plants. 331

are white, and those of T. minus are pale yellow ; but tlie
flowers are of no value compared with the foliage. The plants
should be potted up as soon as the foliage is ripe, and
may be kept in a cold frame during the winter if desired, or
they can be taken into the cold house at once. In the warm
greenhouse, if the plants are introduced during the season of
rest, they should first occupy a cool shelf near the glass, and as
growth commences they should be removed to a warmer part
of the house, but they should be kept as near the glass as
possible. The object to be attained being the production of
fine, healthy, hard foliage, due attention must be paid to such
little details as will be found necessary in practice ; and, above
all things, some amount of air must be allowed on all favourable
occasions, both to harden the foliage and to obtain a good
colour. Water must be given as may be found necessary from
the state of the plants; for while they are in an almost
dormant state very little moisture is required, whereas when
in active growth they require more liberal supplies of water.
A compost of sandy loam and leaf soil, rendered sufficiently
porous by the addition of some sharp sand, is necessary. In
all cases good drainage must be afforded, as the plants do not
thrive in soil that is water-logged. In the cold house the
treatment is practically the same as the preceding, except
that the plants, coming into growth but a short time before
their natural season, require only the ordinary treatment for
hardy subjects.

Propagated by division of the roots when the plants are at rest.
The most suitable sorts for pot culture are : T. adiantoides or
adiantifolium, white ; and T. mimis, pale yellow.

Thea. — Greenhouse hard- wooded shrub. G-rown for its flowers
and foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Thea, or Tea, is a
plant that from its economical value is of much interest, besides
having a good appearance and pretty blooms. It is also of com-
paratively easy culture, and does not require excessive heat; a
house where the temperature does not fall below 40deg. in
winter suiting it very well. It is quite a different plant from
the "tea tree" (so called) of the outdoor garden, which is in

332 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

reality Lycium harharum, being much like the orange in ap-
pearance. Whether the Thea -will produce leaves in England
of any value economically, is a doubtful question, but still,
in a collection of plants, it is very interesting. The plants
should be re-potted every spring in a compost of three parts
yellow loam, one part thoroughly decomposed manure or leaf
soil, and enough sand to keep the compost open. Plenty of
drainage must be afforded, or the soil will become sour.
Dui'ing the summer liquid manure should be occasionally
supplied, and the plants must at no time get thoroughly dry.
The Thea should be placed in frames during the summer, and
treated much the same as camellias or oranges, the wood being
well ripened before bringing into the house, where they should
have a light airy position afforded them, and be further treated
as oranges.

The sorts are : Thea Assamensis, T. Bohea, T. viridis, T. v.
variegata. The first is the hardiest, though the second, in our
opinion, is one of the best.

Tobacco. — See " Nicotiana."

Tradescantia. — Greenhouse soft-wooded plant. Grown for
its foliage. Minimum temperature, 40deg. T. zehrina is of very
easy culture for the warm greenhouse, bearing trailing stems
closely set with ovate leaves, coloured reddish-purple and green,
and well worthy of a place in any collection. The green variety
is useful to form a drooping mass of foliage, but is not so con-
spicuous as the preceding. Cuttings will strike freely in sandy
soil in spring and during the summer, and by a little attention
in watering and pinching back, they forni good plants in a short
time. "We place six or seven cuttings in a 4in. or 6in. pot,
affording plenty of drainage, and filling the pot with a compost
of fairly rich light sandy soil. As soon as they are rooted and
start growth, the points are pinched out, and this operation is
repeated until the plants are of sufficient size. Plenty of water
is necessary. A few plants are always useful, as they form one
of the gems of the house.

Propagated by cuttings, as described above.

Dictionary of Plants.

333

Tropaeolnm. — Half-hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature, 40deg. Among these will be
found very useful plants, useful either as climbers — or, more
correctly, trailers — and dwarfs, very useful indeed both for in
and out door use. For spring blooming they are unrivalled,
and, if sufficient heat is obtainable, combined with a light posi-
tion, the culture is of the simplest, for even if there is not

Fig. 122.— Trop^olum Tuberosum.

sufficient means at hand for early work, still a good display
can be made both in and out doors. Although the blooms
are like the ordinary nasturtium, the plants are vastly different
from them, both in habit and profuseness of bloom, and a
few plants are very useful in every house. Yases and hanging
baskets can be embellished with them most advantageously,
and, in the season, they can be used most successfully outdoors
for the same purpose. They stand heat well, provided it is not

334 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

of too arid a nature, and, with, a little care, they always look
liandsome.

In tlie first place, they are propagated from cuttings, and
this is the most difficult part of their culture. For winter
blooming, the cuttings should be struck in the early part of
July, healthy shoots being selected, about an inch to two
inches long. These should be planted singly in small pots
of weU-di'ained, very sandy soil, and then placed in bottom
heat to strike. As soon as the roots kiss the sides of the pots
the plants should be hardened (M somewhat, and then shifted
into Gin. pots, and, when these pots are fairly filled with roots,
the plants should be removed into 9in. or lOin. pots, in which
they will stand thi-ough the winter. Until the end of September
the ordinary cool house will be all that is necessary, but, after
that date, a temperature of from 50deg. to 55deg. must be kept
up, and, even if it rises as high as 60deg., no harm will be done.
The plants should be stopped when about three feet high, and
again when about double that height. After the final potting,
they should be trained over the roof or from pillar to pillar in
the house, and the shoots allowed to hang somewhat loosely, as
more bloom is obtained thus than when the plants are trained
too strictly. Thorough drainage is necessary, and about three
inches of crocks should be placed in the 9in. pots, as it is
necessary to give liberal, although not too abundant, supplies
of water throughout the season. Plants for summer decoration
should be struck in early spring, and then will come in most
usefully for the various purposes for which they are generally
employed.

The best soil is a compost of good turfy loam, free from grubs
and wire worm, to which is added about one-third part of leaf
soil and sharp sand. This, in fact, is the best compost for
all the Tropseolums.

Among the sorts useful for cut blooms in the above section,
and which are also very ornamental as plants, are : T. Cooperi,
scarlet; T. Lohhii, orange scarlet; and Boule de Feu, which
is one of the best scarlets we have. In fact, with the above
three, one might well be content.

Dwarf plants require much the same treatment if to bloom in

Dictionary of Plants. 335

winter, but for outdoor work they should be struck in spring,
and the following are good plants for the purpose : Yellow
Dwarf, fine yellow ; Lustrous, bright crimson ; The Moor,
dark maroon; Minnie "Warren, richly variegated foliage, the
variegation being pale cream; and T. comp actum coccineum,
rich orange scarlet. The following trailing kinds are also very
useful for bedding purposes and for house decoration, if treated
as recommended above : Attraction, citron yellow, blotched
on each lobe with bright scarlet; Mrs. Tredwell, very fine
brilliant red ; Perfection (Dean), brilliant scarlet ; and Coronet,
yellow.

Propagated from cuttings, as described above.

T. iricolorum is one of the prettiest of the species, and is of
very easy culture. It is a tuberous-rooted variety, having roots
somewhat resembling potatoes, and bears a profusion of rich
orange-scarlet flowers, which contrast extremely well with the
fine green foliage. About November a compost of sandy turfy
loam and peat should be prepared, and to this should be added
a little sharp sand. The pots must also be well drained, and
this drainage should be covered with a little moss or fibrous
turf, to prevent the soil washing down amongst the drainage
and so choking it. The tubers should be planted in 9in. pots,
and if they are small several may occupy each pot ; but if large,
from one to three are sufficient. Place in a position in the
greenhouse where they will not be disturbed, and the only care
necessary will be to prevent them becoming dust dry. About
April the young shoots will appear, and then more water may be
given, and the supplies increased as the plants grow. A bundle
of birch twigs inserted around the edge of the pot, or a young
fir tree clear of its leaves, forms an excellent support for the
foliage, and the only care necessary in training the plants is to
see that they do not i-un into knots, but that each shoot travels
fairly. About midsummer the foliage will begin to fade, and
water must be gradually discontinued until the plants ripen,
when the foliage should be removed, and the pots laid on their
sides in a cool place until the next potting time.

There are several other varieties of Tropseolum, and among
them the nearly hardy T. tuherosum (Fig. 122).

33^ Greenhouse Management for A?7iateurs.

Tulip. — Hardy, bulbous, soft-wooded plant. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. The Tulip is
one of tbose bulbs wbicb, like tbe byacintb, is of universal
cultivation, and is also of universal use. To a certain extent
the culture is very easy, provided the plants are not started
too early in the season. As most persons are aware, the bloom
of the Tulip starts from the interior of the bulb, which, at
the same time, divides into a number of young bulbs. Unlike
the hyacinth, the bloom of the Tulip derives the greater part

Fig. 123.— Tulip Geskeeiaka
(VAE. Flamasde).

■-i-;>jw .-:>-7-^-^ J

Fig. 124.— Tulip Gesneriana
Fl.-pl.

of its nourishment direct from the soil, consequently a rich
compost must be provided. As the bulbs are very cheap, it
is scarcely worth the trouble to save them over for the
second season, and therefore it is only necessary to provide
a soil for the present. We have successfully used a com-
post of two-thirds good mellow loam and one-third rotten
cow manure, to which has been added enough sharp sand to
render the soil freely porous. Plenty of drainage must be
afforded, and a little crushed animal charcoal mixed with the

Dictionary of Plants.

337

soil will intensify the colour of red and scarlet flowers. The
bulbs should be put in in batches from the end of August
until about the middle of November, about five in a 4in. pot,
and treated in the same manner as hyacinths, so far as regards
covering for a few weeks, to induce the production of roots.
The plants should — when taken from the bed — be gradually
brought forward to the light, a temperature of from 45deg.

i^^s^K'

/■z-^,' -^

Fio. 125.— Tulip Gesneriana
(Grand Pied).

^■i?^^

Fig. 126.— Tulip Ttjecica.

to 60deg. afforded, and the supply of root moisture regulated
according to the growth. I'lenty of light is absolutely
necessary, and a somewhat moist atmosphere is an advan-
tage, as dryness conduces to the more rapid production of
the green fly, which is particularly partial to these plants.
The several batches must be introduced at different times, so
as to obtain a continuance of bloom. Great care must be

338 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

taken to destroy — or rather to prevent — fly, and we have
found Fowler's Insecticide more advantageous to nse than
tobacco or fumigation. Another very good plan is to prepare
some boxes in the same manner as the pots, and to place the
bulbs in them about a couple of inches asunder, just covering
■with soil. These boxes, placed in a warm house close to the
glass, and kept well supplied with water, give a large quantity
cf dwarf plants for various decorative purposes, especially for
vase decoration and for the ornamentation of the dinner table.

In the cold house the cultivation of the Tulip is very simple :
Pot the bulbs, and stand them back till they commence growth,
when they should have the full benefit of both light and air, and
the same rules as to watering, as given above, should be applied.

For very full instructions for Tulip growing we would refer
our readers to Mr. Fish's book on " Bulbs and Bulb Culture." *

Propagated by division of the bulbs, which increase
naturally.

There are many species of the Tulipa, but T. Gesneriana is
the fruitful parent of most of our garden varieties, of which
Figs. 123, 124, and 125 show choice examples. The Parrot
Tulip {T. Turcica, Fig. 126) is a remarkable species, with large
and curious flowers composed of irregular wavy petals from
Sin. to Sin. long.

For sorts for pot culture the following are most suitable ;
their earliness is given approximately, in the order in which
they stand : Singles : Due Yan Thol, cinnabar red, orange
border ; Due Yan Thol, in varieties of rose blush, scarlet, white
and yellow ; Artis, bronze, crimson ; Alida Maria, tipped and
flaked cerise, white ground ; Canary Bird, rich yellow ; Bride of
Haarlem, white, bordered with crimson ; Feu d' Angers, scarlet ;

* " Bulbs and Bulb Culture : being Descriptions both Historical and Botanical
of the Principal Bulbs and Bulbous Plants Grown in this Country and their Cliief
Varieties ; with Full and Practical Instructions for their Successful Cultivation
both In and Out of Doors." By D. T. Fish. Part I.— Snowdrop, Bulbocodium,
Sternbergia, Crocus, Colchicum, Tulip, and Hyacinth. Part 11. — Anemone, Nar-
cissus, and the Lily. Part III. — Gladiolus, Lachenalia, Cyclamen, Kanunculus,
nnd Scilla or Squill (Star Hyacinth). Part IV. — Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, and
Babianas; Iris, Tiger Iris; Schizostylis Coccinea; and the Dahlia. Part V. —
Gloxinias, Pancratium, Tuberose, Fritillaria, Alstrcemerias, Triteleia Uniflora,
Agapanthus Umbellatus, Muscari (Musk or Grape Hyacinth), Paeonia, Oxalis, and
Amaryllis. Price Is. each, London : L. Upcott Gill, 170, Strand, W.C.

Dictionary of Plants. 339

Golden Prince, golden yellow; La Belle Alliance, bronze scarlet;
Queen Victoria, pure white; Silver Standard, white striped
cerise-crimson ; Yemiilion Brilliant, scarlet. Doubles : Tonr-
nesol, scarlet and yellow, and the yellow variety ; Due Yan
Thol, red, edged pale yellow; Gloria Solis, bronze crimson,
orange border ; La Candeur, good clear white ; Rex Rubrorum,
bright scarlet ; and Agnes, a bright scarlet dwarf.

Tussilago. — Hardy, herbaceous, soft-wooded plant. Grown
for its foliage. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. The
variegated Coltsfoot {T. Farfara foliis variegatis) is handsome,
producing fine roundish leaves, beautifully margined with a band
of rich creamy white. The flowers are yellow, and of no parti-
cular beauty or interest, and, in fact, are not nearly so ornamental
as the dandelion. The leaves, which are from four to six inches
in diameter, lie flat on the surface of the pot or soil, and do not
often rise more than from four to six inches above the level. As
a low plant for the front of stages, or of a group of plants, this
is one of the best, as it is both conspicuous and ornamental.
The cultui'e is very easy; pot each crown in a well-drained
4in. pot, using a rich sandy compost, and treat in the manner
described for polygonatum. If the plants are not required to
remain in the house throughout the whole season, they may be
used outdoors, either as an edging plant, for which purpose
they are well suited, or for placing in clumps of three or
four in the borders. The other Tussilagos are practically
useless for all but a botanical collection.

Propagated by division in spring, as the plant commences to
make fresh growth.

340 Greenhouse Managejnent for Amateurs.

ERBEXyTA. — Greenlioiise soft-wooded plant.
Grown for its flowers. Minimum tempera-
tui'e, 40deg. Verbenas are very useful
both for bedding out and as pot plants,
and it is doubtful if there are any others
which will serve the same purposes. For
ordinary border use, those raised from seed are
as good as any, but, for pot culture, they are not of
much value, unless, indeed, an unusually good strain
is obtained. The raising of Verbenas from seeds is a very easy
matter — in fact, as easy as raising any half-hardy annual; but, as
we said before, those raised in this manner will not do for pot work.
To obtain plants from seeds, these should be sown in pots
of fairly rich sandy soil, and but slightly covered. As soon
as large enough, the plants should be shifted into small 60-sized
pots, in which they may remain until planting time, if necessary,
but, where time and space allow, they may be transferred to 3ia.
pots with advantage, and, with one pinching, will become very
useful for bedding. It is, of course, quite possible that some-
thing good may be obtained by this method, although the
probability is but small, but, if a good plant be produced, it
should of course be saved and propagated.

In raising Verbenas from cuttings no trouble need be
experienced, but, as it is necessary to have good plants from
which to take the cuttings, we will give the culture from the
commencement. In August a few cuttings should be struck
and planted on a border facing the south, and, at the end of
September, these should be carefally taken up and potted.
About the second week in October the plants should be stored
away in a dry pit or frame from which frost is excluded, and
care should be taken that they be kept dormant, and as dry
as can be allowed consistently with keeping them alive. If
mildew should appear, then they should be liberally dusted
over with flowers of sulphur; but, if care be taken, this will
not be necessary. About February these old plants should be
placed in heat to afford cuttings, and, as soon as good shoots are-

Dictionary of Plants, 341

formed, they sliould be taken off and inserted thickly in ^vell-
di*ained pans of very sandy soil, which should be kept rather
moist and in a brisk bottom heat.

Another good plan to strike soft-wooded cuttings of this
description is to half fill some pots with fine crocks, and on
these place a thin layer of fibrous material to prevent the soil
washing down amongst the drainage. Then fill the pots to
within an inch of the top w.th rich sandy soil, and on this
place half-an-inch of clean-washed sharp silver sand. The pots
should then be well watered through a fine-rosed watering can,
and, as soon as the superfluous water has drained off, the
cuttings should be inserted, with just a sprinkle of water to fix
them in position. The pots should then be stood in a brisk
bottom heat, and, in a fortnight, they will be ready to pot off.

In potting Yerbenas, a compost of three parts rich fibrous
maiden loam, one part leaf soil, and one part rotten cow manure
and sharp sand, should be used, and the soil should be in good
working order. Pot moderately fiiTQ, and replace the plants
in heat for a fortnight, when they may be gradually hardened
off; and should there be time they may be transferred to
Sin. i^ots as soon as the roots kiss the sides. If the plants
are for pot work they should be put into Sin. pots when well
rooted, but only the strongest plants chosen for the purpose.
These should be treated as above until slightly hardened, and
should then be transferred to a position near the glass in a
light airy gi'eenhouse. As soon as the pots are fairly filled
with roots transfer the plants to Gin. pote, well drained and
clean, and neatly stake them out. The shoots should be five
or six in number, unless cut bloom for exhibition is required,
and then three will be plenty. As the pots become filled with
roots, apply weak liquid manure about twice a week, but in no
case should sulphate of ammonia be used, or the foliage will
suffer. "When the trusses show colour remove the plants to
a cooler position, as they will then last a long while, more
especially if a little shade from bright hot sun be given. A
dry (but not arid) atmosphere must also be maintained. These
pot plants come in excellently well for table decoration, and, in
fact, are as useful as any dwarf flowering plant grown.

342 Greenhouse Manageynent for Amateurs.

Should fly or spider put in an appearance — and the latter
will not come if the plants are properly grown — fumigation
must at once be resorted to. Generally about three fumi-
gations are required during the season. Mildew, if it does
appear, should be kept under by di'edgings of flowers of
sulphur.

F. venosa, which is hardy on most fairly light soils, should
be raised from either seeds or cuttings, but preferably from
seed.

Propagated by cuttings, as described above.

The following are good bedding varieties : Crimson King,
dense brilliant crimson; Snowflake, pure white; Purple King,
purple ; Lord Raglan, magenta, scarlet ; Scarlet Defiance, scar-
let; Geant des Batailles, lurid crimson, maroon eye; Firefly,
pink, crimson eye; La Grande Boule de Neige, fine white;
Ladybird, flesh, purple eye; Jupiter, rich plum; Rev. S. R.
Hole, pale lilac, tinted crimson. For pots, the following are
good, but to secure good plants for exhibition it is necessary
to select from a good stock when in bloom, as fresh varieties
are continually being added : Apollo, blush ; King of Lilacs,
lavender blue ; Geant des Batailles, lui-id crimson, maroon eye ;
Foxhunter, scarlet, white eye ; Rev. S. R. Hole, pale lilac, tinted
crimson ; Princess of Wales, pink and white striped ; Prince of
Wales, scarlet; Richard Dean, purple, fine white eye; Thomas
Harris, mulberry, white eye; Carnation, white and crimson
striped ; Bismarck, dark maroon, white eye ; Blue Boy, blue ;
Anatole Leovy, dark purple, shaded maroon, white eye; aoid
Basilisk, scarlet.

Veronica. — Half-hardy hard-wooded shrub. Grown for
its flowers. Minimum temperature, 35deg. The shrubby
Veronicas, though not actually greenhouse plants, are yet
very ornamental, and in the North of England and on cold
wet soils well repay house room. But some of the varieties
are not hardy even so far south as London; and they con-
sequently require indoor shelter, and only stand out during
the summer. We have usually grown these in a compost of
two-thirds loam and one part leaf soil, with enough shai-p

Dictionary of Plants. 343

sand to maintain tlie necessary porosity of tlie soil. The
flowers, produced from small bushes, take the form of axillary
spikes, from lin. to 4in. in length, and as the colours vary
from white through pink to blue, they are very ornamental.
The leaves are generally ovate, opposite, and closely cover the
erect stems, and being from lin. to 2in. in length, allow the
spikes of bloom to show well. Cuttings should be struck in
January and planted out in the open in May. Pinch them
back once or twice to rhake them bushy, and in October take
them up with a good ball of earth attached, and pot them
carefully. The old plants may be cut back and planted out of
doors, and afterwards treated the same as young ones.

Propagated from cuttings struck in a warm greenhouse in
spring, or in a cold frame in August and September.

For sorts select from Y. Andersonii, blue ; V. A. fol. var.,
intense blue, attractive foliage; V. atropurpurea, rosy purple; V.
angustifolia alba, pure white ; V. decussata, dwarf blue ; V. d.
albtty dwai-f white ; Gloire de Lyon, bright red ; V. imperialis^
amaranth red ; V. lobeliodes, fine blue ; V. multijloruin, rosy
carmine ; F. speciosa, blue, cream coloured variegation ; Mile.
Claudine Yillermoz, indigo blue; Creme et violet, flesh pink,
stamens violet; Blue Gem, light blue, very dwarf and free;
Marie Antoinette, pink ; and V. rosea alba, rose.

Vibnrnuin. — Hardy hard -wooded shrub. Grown for its
flowers. Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. Viburnum
tinus (Fig. 127) — the Laurestinus — is good if treated in the
proper manner. The best plan is to take up plants thickly
set with bloom buds, about the end of September or early in
October, pot carefully in sandy loam, and after watermg
thoroughly, place in a cold frame or vinery at rest where
air can be freely admitted, and they will bloom freely at
least a fortnight earlier than those outdoors. A temperature
of about 46deg. will forward them somewhat, but a forcing heat
should be avoided. Treat the same as rhododendrons after
blooming.

Propagated by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in cold frames
as soon as the wood is ripe, or by layers. It is, however, not

344 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

expedient to propagate this shrub, as it needs much ground to
get good blooming plants, and they can be purchased very cheaply.

Violet. — Hardy soft-wooded plant. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature (in pots), 36deg. In contradistinction to
the bedding Yiolas, the Sweet-scented Yiolet (F. odorata, vars.)
is most useful on account of its scent. When properly grown
the plants are but little trouble, but they are less trouble

Fig. 127.— Viburnum Tinus,

in the cold house than when kept in the ordinary green-
house. In the first place, it is necessary to select stout firm
runners in April or May, but preferably in April, and to place
them under handlights on a moist shady border. Wiry runners,
or those produced from pot plants, are practically useless, and
therefore much care is necessary in the selection of the plants
that supply the runners, as also in that of the runners
themselves. When the plants are rooted they should be placed

Dictionary of Plants. 345

out about six or eiglit inclies asunder, according to the habit
of growth. Take care that the soil of which the border is
composed be of a rich light character, and that it face noi-th
or north-east, and be kept moist. In preparing the border, deep
digging is of great importance, as a deeply-dug soil conduces
greatly to the well-being of the plants. Careful attention as
regards watering, &c., is also necessary, and by the end of Sep-
tember fine plants for potting will be obtained. These should
be carefully taken up with a good ball of earth adhering to.
the roots, and potted into 4in. or Gin. pots, according to the
size of the plants, and plenty of di-ainage should be afforded.
The pots should receive a good soaking of water, and be placed in
a shaded frame facing the north for a few days, until the plants
have recovered from the check they received when shifted.
Thence the plants may be removed to a light airy shelf in a
greenhouse, kept at a temperature of about 45deg., where, if
due attention be paid to watering, aeration, and the destruction
of insects, they will bloom nearly the whole winter and spring.

In the cold house, all that will be found necessary is to prevent
the pots becoming frozen, and to pay attention to the above
points of culture, of course preparing the plants as previously
described. As a rule, the single varieties are best for pot culture,
but if massive blooms are. desired the double kinds are preferable.

Propagated by rooted runners as described above.

Of sorts, the common White Yiolet, Viola odorata alba, is
perhaps the sweetest ; and The Czar, a fine long-stemmed blue,
is the best scented blue, but the whole of the following are
good: V. odorata, \)\\1Q\ V. odorata alba, v^hite; V. 0. a. fl. pi.,
double white ; V. suavis (Russian), blue ; V. s. alba, white ;
V. s. fi. pL, blue; and the varieties of V. suavis — Devoniensis,
blue ; The King, blue ; The Queen, white ; and Marie Louise,
white. V. 0. Neapolitana, pale blue, is good ; and probably the
new double white Belle de Chatenay will be useful for the
same purpose as the above, and, from blooms we have seen, we
consider it to be one of the best of Violets, provided it be
of a sufficiently floriferous habit.

Violet, Dog's Tooth.— See "Erythronium."

34^ Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

'EIGELIA. — Hardy tar d - wooded slirub.
Grown for its flowers. Minimiim tem-
perature, 36deg. W.
rosea (Fig. 128) is a
very useful plant for
tlie cold house, either
as a bush or climber, but it
does better planted out than
as a pot plant. It does well

in a compost of sandy loam slightly en-
riched with either leaf soil or thoroughly

decayed manure. The plants should be

grown out of doors during the summer,

and as soon as frost comes should be

housed, and with ordinary attention will

bloom well in April and May. The blooms

are very useful for both bouquets and

table decoration, the purity of the colour

being such as to render them very con-
spicuous. The plants do not force well

or thrive in a high temperature, but they

do excellently well in a cool or cold house.

If rather cramped at the roots, so much

the better do they bloom, and either in

pots or borders this should not be lost

sight of. The same general treatment

applies as to other hardy deciduous plants,

aeration, &c., having to be seen to in the

ordinary manner.

Propagated by division of the rooted

shoots or suckers from the base, by layers,

and by cuttings inserted in cold frames

in autumn. -Fw. 128.— Weigelia Eosea.

Dictionary of Plants.

347

ANTHOCERAS. — HaK - hardy hard-
wooded shrub. Grown for its flowers.
Minimum temperature, 36deg. Xanthoceras
Sorhifolia is of recent introduction, and
will probably prove what it is stated to
be — hardy; but at the same time we
doubt if it be hardy throughout the whole of
England and Scotland. The flowers are white,
with a flesh tint, and are produced at the same
time that the leaves unfold ; they are disposed in racemes,
which attain a length of from Tin. to Sin. For soil, use fibrous
loam and sand, and treat the same as nearly hardy subjects
— veronicas, for instance.

sS^-^e)-

vii.-IHonthly (Calendar.

S perhaps many o£ our readers •will find a
calendar of operations useful, we give
it for one year, so tliat this book may
be complete in respect of managing a
greenhouse such as we generally find
in the hands of amateurs. We com-
mence with August, as that month
perhaps marks the commencement of
general greenhouse work, and autumn
is certainly the most convenient season
for starting a greenhouse. Propagat-
ing soft-wooded plants of various
kinds, the completion of the hardening-
ofE process on hard-wooded plants,
and various other circumstances, combine to
make it the commencement of the season,
as it were, so that by starting with August
we shall keep the calendar in its proper order.
We shall endeavour to make the hints we give
here applicable to all houses that come under the head of
greenhouses; but, of course, stove and forcing houses will be
excluded, as they do not come within the scope of our present
work.

As, however, it is not possible to give directions for every
greenhouse, whatever its shape or position, our readers will have

Monthly Calendar. 349

to adapt the directions as to management in such a manner as
may meet their particular requirements ; and therefore we only
give genera] descriptions of management here. The selection of
subjects must also be left to the individual tastes of the owners,
as the same plants do not suit everyone alike. One word of
advice we will, however, give, and that is, do not have too large
an assortment of plants, and do not try to grow such as
require much heat in a house not suited to them. It is far
preferable to grow a few suitable plants well, and have a good
display from them, than to attempt too much and fail with
the whole.

August. — The first point to be considered this month is the
propagation of bedding plants of various descriptions, as the
season has advanced quite far enough for the purpose. The modes
of propagation having been before described, it is not necessary
to enter into the matter further here, but we will give a few
general hints that may be useful. For the majority of plants
the best pots in which to strike cuttings are those that are
rather flat for their height, and which are about six inches in
diameter ; when filled one-third or half full of crocks, these are
the most useful so far as size is concerned. We prefer round
pots in the ordinary greenhouse, although, as a matter of course,
some space is lost by their use ; but the advantages gained more
than counterbalance the loss of space sustained, as the freer
circulation of air and the more equable temperature obtained
by this method well repay the loss of numbers in the plants,
for they prevent loss through damping or fogging, as it is
called. Of course, so far as the saving of room is concerned,
square seed pans, or boxes made for the purpose of wintering
cuttings, are best ; but, in the hands of the amateiu*, these tend
to embarrass rather than assist, as the quantity of plants lost
by fogging is great. The method of heating is also a great
consideration, as, in the majority of houses erected, the hot
water or other heating apparatus is not fitted to be used with
a large quantity of plants growing in boxes.

Cuttings of the majority of half-hardy bedding plants will
root freely in the open air ; but if a frame or two are empty, it

35*^ Greenhouse Manage?nent for Amateurs.

is a good plan to stand tlie pots in these, as tlien shelter from
excessive rains can be provided. In no case is it wise to allow
too great a quantity of water in striking cuttings intended to
stand througli the dull, damp days of winter, as plants that
are full of sappy growth are very liable to fog off ; it is, however,
necessary that suffi^cient moisture be allowed, or the cuttings
will shrivel up instead of rooting.

The soil in which cuttings are placed should also have some
share of attention, lest some undesirable results should foUow.
Great care must be taken that worms, woodlice, and maggots,
&c., are most conspicuously absent, and that there are no
chips of wood, half -rotten leaves, or other rubbish present
that may be likely to cause fungoid growth. For this reason,
claret and other boxes made of poplar are most unsuitable for
storing cuttings for the winter, because, as a rule, fungi of a
most objectionable character, or rather the mycelium of the
fungi, put in an appearance and destroy the cuttings. At
least 25 per cent, more cuttings should be put in than the
number of plants required, to allow for possible accidents.

This month is a good time to thoroughly clean all houses
intended for the reception of plants, and also to mend the
glass, and re-putty, and, in many instances, re-paint the roofs,
as drip will do more harm than cold. When dry, the paint
should have a glossy or shiny appearance, but it should
not be put on too thickly ; two thin coats are better than
one thick one. The cleaning process should embrace all parts
of the house, the stages should be washed down thoroughly,
walls limewhited, flues cleaned out, water pipes freed from dirt
and rust, valves and air pipes cleaned and put in thorough
working order, and the furnace and boiler repaired. Another,
•and important point, is to see that ventilators and sash
lines are in really good order, and if the least doubt exists
as to their strength, they should be at once replaced with new
ones. In fact, it is necessary that the place be put in
thorough repair in all parts, as a sash line breaking, or a pipe or
flue fouling on a frosty night, will often destroy the majority of
the plants in the house ; and, at the same time, a dirty house will
produce such hosts of insects as to cause really serious damage.

Monthly Calendar. 351

Some of the earlier azaleas and camellias may now be got in,
care being taken tbat tlie foliage is dry and that the pots are
clear of sings and otlier obnoxious insects; but all the later
stock must be kept out, with such protection from heavy rains
as may be necessary. All hard-wooded stock must have as
much air and exposure as their habit requires, but heavy rains
must be kept off. The x>elargoniums cut down last month
should now be shaken out, and re-potted into smaller pots.
Chrysanthemums should be placed in their blooming pots, and
should receive sufficient supplies of liquid manui'e. Cine-
rarias should be divided and potted in small pots, and the
young plants should have a shift, if required ; some seed may
also be sown. Roman hyacinths and some other bulbs should
be potted up, and all bulbs for early blooming should be kept in
the dark for a few weeks, so that the roots may obtain firm
hold of the soil ere the foliage starts. Annuals may in many
cases be sown to stand the winter for early work, and a sandy
friable soil should be chosen for the seed beds. They must also
be transplanted before they become too large.

Where vines or other roof climbers exist great care must be
taken to keep them in a sound, healthy state, and free from
insects and mildew, or the results will be serious to the plants
that will soon have to be introduced into the house. In short,
every means must be taken te keep the place in the most perfect
order and the plants in the best condition, all details of tying,
removing dead flowers, and other little items being most par-
ticularly carried out.

September. — This month is generally a very busy one so far
as the greenhouse is concerned, as all arrears of work have to be
got up, and a vast amount of fresh work to be done. Among
other things is the continued propagation of bedding plants, and
this must be carried out as briskly as possible, for if left until
too late much trouble and risk will be incurred. As it is, some
things will root more readily by having a gentle bottom heat
applied to them. In fact, it is a good plan where soft-wooded
plants only are grown, to put the tire on for a few nights when
the plants are first put in ; but if there are vines or hard- wooded

352 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

plants in the liouse, this cannot be done with impunity. In all
cases a plentiful circulation of air must be maintained, and
water must be given as found necessary; but it is especially
necessary that too much be not given, or the plants will become
sappy and unfit to stand the winter. The same rule applies to
hard- wooded plants; enough water should be given, and no
more, and the circulation" of air should be fully attended to.
Great care must be taken that the drainage of the pots is
perfect, and that both plants and pots are free from noxious
insects.

The whole of the hard- wooded stock must be got into their
winter quarters before the end of the month, the state of the
weather being considered in determining when they shall be
taken indoors. Great care must be taken that there are no
worms in the pots, and that the drainage is perfect, or results
the reverse of pleasant will ensue. Nor is it to be forgotten
that the green slimy growth on the pots, which is not
infrequently found in the case of pots not plunged in ashes,
should be washed off carefully, and the pots allowed to dry ere
being taken into the house. All plants liable to the attacks of
scale should be carefully looked over to see that they are quite
clear from this pest, and particular attention must be paid to
searching for slugs, snails, and caterpillars, as they often do
much damage.

This is about the best time to purchase a stock of hard-wooded
plants, where such purchase is required, and here some little
skill will be found necessary. In the first place, it is requisite
that the plants shall be well-grown young stock, and that they
have been grown on in a proper manner without check, or they
will not be of very much service. They should also be quite free
from insects, and therefore a close examination is needed.
If, however, the plants are bought at a good nursery, and a fair
price paid, but little trouble need be anticipated on this account.

In the general work much has to be done, and unless done at
the proper time it will not be good for the plants. Primulas,
calceolarias, and cinerarias require especial attention at this
season, as also do other plants of a like nature. Particular
attention is also necessary with those plants which are being

Monthly Calendar. 353

prepared for winter blooming, as a day's neglect often ruins
the plants for the purpose for which they are intended. Any
late Cape pelargoniums should be ripened off if the bloom is
over, and then headed down. A good batch of cuttings should
also be got in for use in summer, to succeed those potted off.
Chrysanthemums may still be shifted into larger pots where it
is considered necessary, or liquid manure may be applied regu-
larly ; and in places where the room is limited this latter plan is
best. Mignonette may be sown to stand the winter, but for this
pui'pose it does best in frames. A batch of Dutch bulbs should
be got in, and plants in pots, such as weigelas, which ought
to have ceased growth, should be induced to ripen by partially
withholding water, but enough should be given to keep them
in proper condition.

The aim of the gardener at this season should be to obtain a
compact sturdy growth in all plants that are intended for
winter blooming, and to avoid such treatment as will tend to
have a reverse effect. Nothing is more injurious than to draw
up the plants in a weak attenuated habit, as in such cases the
bloom obtained is of the poorest, deficient both in quantity and
substance, and should it be cut for bouquets or table decoration,
it soon falls to pieces, and even if gummed, withers and becomes
useless. Where good results are desired, a slow, steady, healthy
growth should be maintained.

Grapes should be ripened off as soon as possible, and cut and
stored in a dry fruit room, or the moisture from the plants will
soon make them decay.

October. — It is advisable to continue introducing such soft-
wooded plants as it may be desired to save during winter,
and cuttings of geraniums and the like must be got in as
soon as practicable, if m<jre of them are to be struck at this
season. As a rule it will be found requisite to use a little bottom
heat in striking these late cuttings, yet in many cases it
pays to do them even as late as next month, but the early-
struck plants where they are possible are best, as they cost
less in striking, stand better through the winter, and bloom
longer and form more useful plants in spring. Where very

A A

354 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

large quantities are required, and labour is limited, it frequently
happens that time does not allow of a sufficient number being
got in in due season, and therefore extraordinary methods will
have to be adopted to obtain adequate stock. Old plants of
zonal pelargoniums may be taken up, and cut in closely, as
many as can be got in being put into 6in. pots, and these old
stools will make a good lot of plants in the early part of
the year, besides affording a good batch of , cuttings, which
will strike readily in March. The tops which are cut off
now will also afford good cuttings, which, as we mentioned
before, will strike readily with a little bottom heat. All the
bedding plants which it is desired to save should be taken
up before they are injured by frost, and care should be taken
that they are not kept too wet after potting. Cuttings of
shrubby calceolarias may also be put in now, as well as next
month, care being taken that they are not frosted or infested
with green fly. Before these are put in, the frames should be
carefully examined to see that they are free from slugs or
snails. Where, from the dampness of the climate, or the
severity of the weather, it is found that annuals do not
stand the winter well out doors, they should now be pricked out
in frames, and while air is freely given, too much moisture must
be excluded.

Hard-wooded plants should now be in a proper condition to
stand the winter, and care must be taken not to get the pots
water-logged, or the damage will be very great. Insects should
be carefully looked for, and in no case should their presence on
these subjects be passed by lightly.

Pelargoniums must be induced to become dormant by Christ-
mas, and plants requiring much the same treatment must occupy
a similar position. As regards the care bestowed on them, it
simplifies matters to a great extent to have plants requiring
similar treatment close together, and also allows of a better dis-
position of the plants in bloom in the house. Chrysanthemums
will be thejpiece de resistance for the next six weeks or two months,
and therefore it is desirable to arrange them to the greatest
advantage, and also to pay as much attention as possible to pro-
longing the time of blooming. Scarlet geraniums, and othej

Monthly Calendar. 355

plants, will, of coui'se, be making some sliow, but not to tbe
extent of that afforded by tlie cliiysantliemums. Some of tbe
bardy plants will assist in the display, and mignonette sliould
be well in bloom, if the three varieties are properly grown.
In a short time some of the earlier primulas and cinerarias will
follow, and, if time and care is bestowed in the right direction,
a fair amount of interesting blooming plants will now put forth
their beauty.

Successional batches of Dutch bulbs should be got in, and
these should be kept in a dark place for a few weeks, as
previously recommended. Where large plants are required
primulas and cinerarias may have another shift ; but, after 4in.
or 6in. pots are reached, unless the house is large, it is not well
to pot on, as the plants do not show well in a small house if
the pots are too large, and large pots cannot well be hidden
on too upright a stage. Some more seeds of cineraria and
calceolaria may be sown if very late plants are desired and
the house is suitable for the purpose.

Great care must be taken to keep down insects, and to
remove all mildewed or rotten vegetable matter, as these evils
cause much trouble during the damp winter months. A free
circulation of air must be maintained, and a temperatui'e
of about 45deg. kept up; but rain or thick fog must not be
admitted into the house.

"Where vines are ripe enough, they should be pruned, and
the rods tied along the front plate of the house, so that as
much light as possible may be admitted. Cleanliness also
should be the order of the day.

November. — This and the two succeeding months will be
found the dullest part of the year for gardening matters,
and therefore it is necessary that the greatest pains be taken
with the glass structures in the garden. The good arrangement
of the plants occupies a foremost place in the necessary work,
for the plants should be re-arranged frequently, so that the
interest in the house may be maintained. Fresh arrangement,
and the introduction of all new subjects to prominent notice,
tends to keep up the interest in the house or houses to a far

AA 2

356 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

greater extent tlian is often supposed, and therefore particular
attention should be paid to this point. Cleanliness also is an
important part of the work in this department. The destruction
of insects and mildew, and the removal of all dead foliage and
other matters which tend to cause fungoid growth, or disease
to the plants, should be rigidly attended to, and, in short, the
house should be kept clear from all that is not of legitimate
use. No empty pots, heaps of paper, tying material, flower
sticks or dthris, of any kind should ever be found about the
house.

Ventilation must be closely attended to, but in damp
weather some caution is requisite in admitting air, as, unless
there is enough fire heat to dry the atmosphere, many of
the plants will damp off, and therefore much attention
must be paid to this point. In thick fogs it is not advisable
to open the house at all, particularly if there are plants
in bloom inside, as fog exercises a most deleterious effect
on the blooms, and with some subjects causes the petals to
fall off. Too great a fire heat must not be kept up for the
next two months, or the plants will draw, and become too
weak and sappy; but enough heat must be maintained to
keep the place sufficiently dry. This result is best attained
by abundant ventilation and warmth enough for a tempera-
ture of 40deg. to 45deg.; but, of course, consideration will
have to be given to the class of plants grown and their
requirements.

The majority of plants will be at rest, but some will be bloom-
ing pretty freely, chrysanthemums being in strong force. Some
re-potting will be found needful, but except where really
necessary it is not desirable to shift plants at this season. The
last batch of Dutch bulbs should be got in, as well as some of the
hardy plants that we have mentioned previously, but discretion
must be used in the choice of subjects. In fact, this is the
slackest time of the year, and, as a i-ule, it is not advisable to do
more than is absolutely necessary.

In some cases a root or two of rhubarb and a few pots of sea-
kale can be brought in, and placed under the stage, and a very
agreeable dish or two will be obtained with little trouble or

Monthly Calendar. 357

expense ; but too large a quantity should not be grown, as it
tends to increase the dampness of the house.

Hardy plants in the frames should have as much air as pos-
sible, and be treated as hardy ; but frost and excessive rain must
be excluded, as plants of all kinds can stand more cold when in
a comparatively dry state than when saturated with moisture and
making too sappy a growth. Yines in the house should be
pruned as soon as ripe, and all the foliage, dead bark, and
prunings should be burnt up out of the way.

December.— Except in such cases as are mentioned under
the separate heads in the Dictionary of Plants, the work this
month is practically the same as last ; cleanliness and freedom
from insects being most required. Care in ventilation and
applying fire heat is also needed, but the rules have been given
before. A further batch of hardy plants may be introduced.
Practically, however, to the amateur work is at the minimum ;
all that is necessary should have been done last month.

January. — During the greater part of this month very little
has to be done beyond the ordinary care of the plants; but
towards the end of it propagation of soft-wooded subjects will
demand attention, and the earlier the season the sooner will work
in this direction commence. Before referring further to this
matter we will take the earlier part of the month first. In the
first place, it is necessary that due attention be paid to the
individual plants composing the collection. All those which
are showing bloom should be brought forward into the lightest
and most prominent positions, while others may occupy posi-
tions not so conspicuous, each plant, at the same time, being
allowed as nearly as possible the position most suitable to
it. The previous directions as to cleanliness about the plants
and house still hold good; and in the case of the destruc-
tion of insects, our remarks must be carefully attended to> as
generally with the advent of the new year and brighter weather,
the increase of these is very rapid, particularly of aphides, and
perhaps they are the worst pests there are to contend with.
How to destroy them has been previously described. Great

358 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

care is also necessary in watering, as too little or too mucli
water is not calculated to keep the plants in the greatest
health. A happy medium will have to be chosen, and this
can only be learned by careful attention to the requirements
and natui'e of the plants, and no amount of book knowledge
will ever teach this part of the work of the greenhouse. The
heat of the house should also be kept at some point between
40deg. and SOdeg., according to the class of plants grown, but
the temperature should not be such as to induce them to
make premature and weakly growth. "Ventilation must also
be carefully attended to, as before explained, but, of course,
in no case may a current of frosty air be carried over tender
plants or plants in bloom. Hardy subjects require the same
treatment as previously described, and, except in cases
mentioned further back, they should not be induced to make
any active growth yet.

In bad weather the preparation of the various soils and
composts, getting ready a good store of crocks and labels,
pot washing, and other necessary work, should be attended
to, and everything got in readiness for active work so soon
as it commences, it being sheer waste of time to have these
things to attend to when they are actually required. Good
heaps of compost, as well as the other necessary articles for
potting, should be kept under cover, and then they are always
to hand when wanted. Tools of all kinds should be looked over,
and all other odd work about the place should be done.

Towards the end of the month, old plants of fuchsias,
heliotropes, lobelias, lantanas, verbenas, &c., should be put
into a gentle bottom heat to induce them to throw up cuttings,
for which, again, a gentle bottom heat should be used to
make them strike freely. Some seeds can be sown towards
the end of the month, but of course due attention will
have to be paid to the season, as the earlier this is the
earlier will growth commence. Some cinerarias may be once
again repotted, if extra large plants are required, and the
young stuff must be brought forward as found necessary, but
information on such points has been given in its proper place.
More hardy ' plants and shinibs may be brought in to ensure

Monthly Calendar. 359

a further supply of bloom, and hyacinths, &c., showing bloom
should have a warm light position.

PelDniary. — This month is generally a very busy one in
the greenhouse, and, in fact, it will be found difficult to keep
pace with the work where large quantities of bedding plants
have to be grown. Foremost comes the preparation of the
means for supplying bottom heat, and unless regular pro-
pagating frames are at hand, it is well to use a good
steady hotbed. The heat required is not very high, but at
the same time should be lasting. We give our method of
making beds for this purpose.

Let there be a sufficient supply of leaves from hard-wooded
trees or plants, and good horse manure that has been shaken
out to a moderate shortness. These materials can either be
shaken together or kept separate, but, if well made, the bed
will be practically as lasting whichever process is followed.
Tuni and shake the materials about twice, so that a proper
state of moisture shall be attained, and should the materials
appear too dry apply some water, but it is important that they
should not be too wet, or a sudden violent heat will result,
and the bed will be cold in a few days. Let the bed be
about 3ft. wider and longer than the frame to cover it, and
put it together in small forkfuls, well shaking it about, and
treading firmly as the work proceeds. When finished, the
bed should be about 2^ft. high in front and 6in. or 9in. higher
at the back, and should be 18in. wider than, the frame on all
sides; but if in a brick pit of course this will not be the
case. Instead of having the materials mixed together, a
layer of manure and a layer of leaves alternately may be
used, in which case the leaves should be in layers about Sin.
thick, and the manure treble the thickness, care being taken
that the bottom layer is manure and the top one leaves. When
the frame is put on, put inside about a couple of inches of
soil, ashes, or sawdust to keep down any rank steam or gases
that may be emitted by the heating materials, and cover the
outsides of the frame, or rather the material that projects
beyond the frame, with boards, long litter, or other medium

360 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

to keep off rain, as to get the outsides soaked witli wet means
a great diminution of tlie lieat, besides the removal of a large
quantity of the manurial value after the "bed is cold. After
about three days the bed "will be in good fettle for the purposes
desired, and the pots of cuttings may be placed in it ; but it is
necessary that just a chink, say of the thickness of a penny
piece, at the back of the frame be left open, so that superfluous
steam may escape, or it will condense on the foliage of the
plants, and cause them to fog off. Great care must be taken
that the covering of ashes or other material is not broken, as,
should it be, the rank steam from the bed will escape, and
cause very undesirable results. As well as for striking
cuttings of the various bedding plants, this bed will be
found useful for many purposes, starting seeds of lobelia,
perilla, and other subjects, starting dahlia roots, and work
of a like nature, together with many things that we have
not space to enumerate. As to the varieties of plants to
be struck now, we must refer our readers to the various
articles on the subjects in view. "Where cuttings are not
sufficiently numerous the old plants should be placed in heat
as advised last month, and as a rule this will have the desired
effect.

Soft -wooded plants generally will require attention, but
there is not so much to be done in the way of re-potting,
&c., as there wiU be next month, especially if the season is
late, as the dull weather rather retards the plants, and it is
not advisable to act too much against Nature. It is, however,
a good plan to select a few of the best fuchsias, petunias,
zonal pelargoniums, &c., and give them a good shift, so as
to obtain large plants for the various uses for which they
are so often required. Cape pelargoniums should be trained,
and in some instances re-potted, and care must be taken that
the foliage is dry before the sun reaches it, or the leaves will
be scalded or spotted. A good batch of cuttings should be got
in for autumn blooming. Continue to re-pot calceolarias as
they fill their pots with roots. If necessary, more seed may
be sown; but of course this must be left to the judgment of
the grower.

Monthly Calendar. 361

Most of tlie hard-wooded plants are now making growth
rapidly — that is, if the season is early — necessitating careful
looking over, and, in some cases, top-dressing ; and young plants
that are growing forward for specimens should be re-potted
where necessary. These latter must also be very carefully
attended to in point of training, &c., as the futui*e appear-
ance of the plants is dependent on receiving this while
young. The foliage must also be kept clean, and a rigid
destruction of all insects must be carried out. As the house
will now be getting gay with the display of bloom from the
various subjects, it will be found more difficult to keep insects
under, and fumigation will have to be done outside in a
place provided for the purpose, as inside the smoke would
destroy the bloom.

More hardy subjects can be introduced from time to time,
to keep up a good display, and nothing more will be necessary
than to give the ordinary treatment afforded to the other
occupants of the house. Hardy annuals, such as nemophila,
collinsia, and similar subjects, shoTild be potted off carefully
in 4in. or Gin. pots, according to their various habits, and
should be replaced in the frame, care being taken that insects
are kept under.

Great care must also be taken to afford good ventilation
to the house, and that the foliage of the plants is dry before
the sun reaches it, or burnt or scalded leaves will result.

March. — If anything, the work this month is even more
important than last, and the same amount of care must be
given ; but the results will be more marked, and the show of
bloom will be largely increased. It is also very probable that
the stock of green fly will be continually increased, and as
the difficulties attending fumigation at this season are very
great, recourse must be had to some insecticide, such as
Fowler's, or Pooley's tobacco powder, either of which is very
effective if properly applied. Slugs and snails must also be
sharply looked after, as should also woodlice, as these do
much harm, especially among ferns and other plants of a
similar nature. Staking and tying out the various plants,

362 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

and removing dead leaves, must now be closely looked to,
and it is also desirable that dead blooms should be removed
ere they become too much decayed, as it is easier to intro-
duce the genns of mildew into the house than it is to get
rid of them. Ventilation, too, should be carefully attended
to, especially where a fire is kept going, as a close, moist
atmosphere at this season means plenty of mildew and insects.
A free circulation of air is absolutely necessary, and must
be varied according to the temperature outside, so that no
blasts of cold air pass over the plants, especially in frosty
weather. At the same time, air must be admitted sufficiently
early to dry the foliage, for the reasons stated in last month's
directions.

The propagation of bedding plants of all kinds should be
vigorously proceeded with, and as soon as rooted the plants
should be shifted into small pots, and carefully hardened
ofE to a certain extent to fit them for the greenhouse. All
the autumn stores should be at once potted off if not already
done, and, in fact, the work of propagating and preparing
soft-wooded stock should be pushed on as quickly as possible.
And here let us point out a wi-inkle in growing young soft-
wooded stuff : always use plenty of sharp silver sand, and do not
pot too firmly, as the roots, being very tender, do not push
very freely in heavy soil, and hard potting tends to break them
off. It is also a good plan to retain as much soil as possible
round the roots, as it protects them during potting, and also
affords a means of the plants obtaining the necessary moisture
and nourishment without receiving a violent check. Cuttings
of dahlias and similar plants should be struck forthwith, and
when rooted, potted off and placed in heat until the roots have
taken firm hold of their new quarters. Where room is scarce,
towards the end of the month, such things as scarlet pelar-
goniums, &c., can be placed in pits outside, provided frost and
damp can be kept at bay. Many things that are nearly hardy
can also be transferred to the frames at this season, and the
space they occupied in the house may be profitably used for
other subjects.
Hard-wooded plants will require increased attention, and

Monthly Calendar^ 363

all yoiing stock will liave to be frequently looked to in respect
of training and the like. As, however, this matter has
been fully treated, no further remark is necessary, except
that the plants should be kept quite free, both from dirt and
insects.

In the cold frames things will be requiring attention
generally, and ^^erhaps the most important is the proper treat-
ment of the plants. Watering, ventilation, and the destruction
of insects are all important matters, and after these comes the
re-potting of those plants which require it. Many plants will
have to be shifted into their blooming pots ; and calceolarias,
picotees, carnations, &c., all require this to be done now.
Training the various plants as found necessary, and potting off
cuttings, will also fonn pai-t of the work. Nor must the sowing
of the various half-hardy annuals, &c., be forgotten, as they
make a grand display if treated properly. Indeed, at this
time the greatest efforts have to be made to supply the plants
that are required for the decoration of both flower garden and
greenhouse at a later season.

April. — Arrears of work in the preparation of bedding
plants must be made up forthwith, or, in many cases, they
will not be large enough for any really decorative use. There
is no reason for repeating our directions about this part of the
work, as it is practically the same as that in previous months,
except that a very great many of the plants can be propa-
gated without fire heat, although those thus obtained will be
late. The whole of the stock of zonal pelargoniums, and
other nearly hardy plants of a like nature, should be in
the frames, and, where necessary, should be re-potted; but
unless extra large growths are required, or they are to
stand in pots, Sin. pots are large enough for the ordinary
run of bedding plants. Great care must be taken in destroy-
ing insects, as they do a greater amount of mischief as the
weather becomes warmer, particularly in the case of slugs
and snails, which, if left unmolested, will soon defoliate the
whole of the plants in a large frame, especially those of a soft,
succulent nature. Where red spider or thrips are prevalent

364 G^'eenhouse Management for Amateurs.

in the season, care should be taken that they are destroyed
as soon as they appear, for " a stitch in time saves nine."

Hard-wooded and other plants will now be in full bloom, and
great care must be taken that no drip falls on the flowers,
neither must too damp an atmosphere be maintained, so that
water condenses on the blossoms or foliage. This would do
much harm to the appearance of the plants, but more par-
ticularly if the sun reached them ere the damp was dispelled,
as in such case they become spotted and scalded, and very
unsightly. To this end it is advisable to open the top lights
of the house early in the morning, not later than seven
o'clock, and to give a thorough current of air a little later
according to the weather, and whether fire heat is or is not
employed. Anyway, it is necessary that the foliage be dry
before the sun reaches it.

The arrangement of the plants and training of roof climbers,
&c., are in themselves very important portions of the work in
this department, and must have especial attention paid them.
On the manner in which these are done very much depends,
the appearance of the house at this season being one of its chief
attractions ; and it is generally admitted that, however fine the
specimens may be individually, unless they be well arranged,
the effect they produce is but small.

In the frames there is still plenty to be done, many plants
requiring to be re-potted, and many things to be trained out
in the way they should go, rather tban tbat which they desire.
Various subjects will require liquid manure, and others top
dressing, but for these items we must refer our readers to past
directions. Cuttings of various plants must be got in, and in
potting these a goodly quantity of sand must be used, both
before and after they are rooted. Plenty of air must now be
given, and insects must be kept at bay by the use of insecticides.

Yines must have great attention paid them where they are
used instead of other roof plants ; and it is scarcely needful to
remark that they must not obstruct too much light, or the other
plants will suffer.*

• For treatment of vines see " Vine Culture for Amateurs." London : L. Upcott
Gill, 170, Strand; price Is.

Monthly Calendar. 365

May. — All tlie bedding plants should now be out of doors,
and tlie house should be occupied by such as are to be
employed for its decoration only. The propagation of those
for outside work should have been finished, and only that
of subjects for indoor decoration should be in hand. The
stock of bedding plants should be thoroughly hardened off,
and, to afford room for the more tender subjects, calceolarias
and other nearly hardy stock and hardy annuals should be
got into the beds and borders early in the month, if not
done in April ; and at the end of it zonal pelargoniums, and
other plants of a like degree of hardiness, should be got
into their summer quarters. Some of the best of these,
however, should be put by and potted on for varioas decora-
tive purposes in pots; and these reserved plants should be
carefully tended, as they come in very usefully for many
places which would otherwise be bare. The more tender
varieties may remain until next month, and the space that is
obtained by placing the hardier kinds out can be occupied
by them.

The remarks already made about the destruction of insects,
and the general cleanliness of both plants and the places
they occupy, need not be repeated this month ; but, as a rule,
these are just the points that the amateur neglects, and conse-
quently he has more or less ill success with some of his
plants, if not with all.

Where it is desired that a few cucumbers should occupy the
house or frames after the bedding plants are got out of the way,
they should be sown at once on a brisk heat. Choose such as
RoUison's Telegraph or Masters' Prolific, both of which are good
and free bearers ; or, if preferred, plants may be purchased and
put out at once.

As during the next two months the greater part of the present
occupants of the house will be got into the frames, it is desirable
that the plants that are to occupy their places should be pushed
forward ; and to this end fuchsias, balsams, celosias, begonias,
lobelias, &c., should be got on so as to render the place as gay
as possible during the time the other plants are out, although
where there is a good garden the bareness of the house will not

366 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,

mucli matter. At the same time, a well-furnished conservatory
is a nice place to spend a* short time in dm*ing rain, or after the
heat of the day is over.

Besides such plants as we have mentioned, there are plenty
of subjects which can be prepared in the frames, and brought
into the conservatory to bloom, and these will, of necessity,
occupy some time. Seeds of primula, cineraria, and a few
other plants will have to be sown for early work ; and various
other items only noted by the owner attended to. Training
and re-potting various plants, and the application of liquid
manure where necessary, will also occupy time, and altogether
this is a busy month, although not so much so as the previous
one.

Yentilation must be carefully seen to, and while it is not
altogether advisable to admit too much air on frosty mornings,
still it is absolutely necessary that the foliage and bloom of the
plants shall be quite diy ere the sun reaches them, or burnt and
scalded foliage will greet the eyes, and in some cases the nose,
of the amateur who allows this state of things to come about
through neglect of the necessary precautions.

Yines being now in full bloom should be gently tapped or
shaken a little before noon each day, so that the pollen shall be
well diffused and a good crop of fruit set, as it is a comparatively
easy matter to thin out superfluous berries, while it is an
impossibility to place in fresh ones where they may be deficient.
The proper training of all roof climbers should be well attended
to, and a good look-out kept for scale and other insects
which often infest them. Red spider and thrips must be
particularly looked after, as they spread very raj^idly in a
dry atmosphere, but if care is taken they will not gain much
head.

June. — Early in the month, if the weather is at all propitious,
the whole of the bedding plants will be got out, and the space
thus left vacant will be required for the hard-wooded stock,
which should now be transfeiTed to the frames. Some of the
hard-wooded plants require to be kept in the house for the whole
season, but such things as oranges, camellias, azaleas, &c., are

Monthly Calendar. 367

best out for part of the year. Tlie best plan is to prepare beds
of coal ashes in wliicli to plunge tlie pots, as tbey are tben not so
liable to suffer from di-ought, or sudden changes, as when stood
on the ground, and, besides, worms will not penetrate through
the sharp ashes. Under the hole in each pot a piece of slate or
tile should be laid, as an additional safe- guard against the
ingress of worms, as they do a vast amount of harm to the
plants which they honour by their presence. Where it is
necessary, plants should be re-potted, and some will be benefited
by the application of clear liquid manure, but it is for the
grower to decide which plants do, or do not, require artificial
aid. In fact, its good or ill effects is an open question; and
although we use it in many cases, still we consider that with
hard- wooded plants it is far better to re-pot than to apply stimu-
lants, as the effects produced by the latter are not really lasting.
With large specimens the case is somewhat different, as it may
not be desirable to give larger pots, and therefore stimulating
manui-es are necessary to keep the plants in full vigour for some
time ; but this artificial stimulus tells on the constitution of the
plants, and sooner or later they are sure to die off. The plants
must be protected from heavy rains, but should have all the
exposure possible consistent with their well being. Due atten-
tion will have to be paid to watering and keeping clear of insects,
and also to training the young stock, and each plant should have
sufiicient room in which to develop itself.

In the house some care is requisite to keep the plants that
occupy the places of the hard-wooded stock in good order,
.and plenty of light is of primary importance to all things
but ferns. Care must be taken that the foliage is not
splashed when watering in mid-day, which will be necessary
with some subjects which make a very gross growth. Ven-
tilation must also be carefully attended to, the house being
opened at six or half -past six every morning; in fact, air
should be admitted all night, unless special reasons exist
for the contrary. The necessity of staking the plants, keep-
ing down insects, &c., is too evident to need more than a
passing note. Permanent trees and climbers will, of course,
require due attention in respect of watering, keeping clear

368 Greenhouse Management for Amateurs.

of insects, and other matters that will be readily seen, and,
where requisite, the grosser shoots should be pinched back,
so that the growth is equalised.

The various plants that are coming on for autumn decoration
must be re-potted and trained as may be necessary, and some
cuttings of zonale pelargoniums and a few other subjects
should be put in, so that in winter some good blooming
plants shall be at hand. Primulas should be potted off, and
more seeds sown.

Yines and climbers must have a fair share of attention,
not only in respect of training and the destruction of
insects, but also as to a sufficiency of moisture, and in too
many cases this latter point is neglected. Thinning grapes,
where there are any, is also an important point at this time,
and much skill and judgment are required in the operation,
it being necessary that the berries should be left just thin
enough to form a good bunch, but not over-thinned, as in
the latter case the bunches will have by no means a pleasing
appearance when placed on the table.

July. — Propagation in many cases will now be commenced,
choice geraniums and other good plants of coui'se taking
precedence of others of less value ; but as many that are
difficxdt to strike later on now strike readily, choice should also
be made of these. Seeds of various plants may yet be sown,
and those seedlings which are of sufficient size should be
potted off, and older plants shifted on. The various plants
which are being grown on for autumn and winter use should,
also be shifted on as necessary, nor should any neglect be
allowed to befall them. "Watering is a matter that needs
especial attention, and previous remarks on this subject should
be attended to.

The plants for decorative purposes in the house must not
be overlooked, and great care in watering, ventilation, &c., must
be taken, especially with fine-foliaged kinds. Previous remarks
as to drip and watering the foliage must be carefully attended
to, and full ventilation must be given by seven o'clock in the
morning at the latest, as after this hour any condensed

Monthly Calejtdar. 369

moisture on tlie foliage will not liave time to get away ere the
STin may come on the plants with too severe force, and so
cause serious disfiguration. In fact, some ventilation should
be given through the night. The destruction of insects must
be attended to with unremitting care, and the house must
be kept in a generally clean and tidy condition, both for the
sake of the plants and the comfort of the visitors. Where
necessary liquid manure should be applied, but, as before ex-
plained, its use should be chiefly on short-lived subjects, and
not on those of more pei*manent natui-e.

Hard-wooded plants should receive all necessary care and
attention; but the work is very similar to that of last month,
and need not, therefore, be detailed. The less so, because the
treatment for individual plants has been already described.
It should be such as will tend to cause a good sturdy growth
of a floriferous nature, and to this end as much exposure as
possible should be given consistent with the habit. The earlier
forced plants should be ripened off without loss of time, so
as to be ready to come into the house early next month.
Care must be taken to keep all insects cleared off as soon as
they appear, especially those which attack the foliage, as they
detract so very much from the appearance.

Yines and roof climbers will still require some attention
in respect of training, &c. The final thinning should be given
to grapes, and they should, after stoning, be well fed with
liquid manure to cause them to grow apace, and become fine
in the berry.

Repairs should be done at this season, and the outsides of
the houses, frames, &c., should receive a good coat of paint,
as this saves both the woodwork and putty, besides keeping
the place watertight.

B B

viii.-ITloNTHLY List of Plants in Bloom
IN THE Greenhouse.

EEENHOUSE MA:NrAGEMENT would
be incomplete witliout a list of plants
arranged according to their blooming
periods; for, although the times at
which the various kinds come into
flower vary with the treatment given,
yet, as a rule, they are sufficiently ap-
proximate to aft'ord a pretty accurate
idea as to the subjects needed for main-
taining a continued display. Forced
plants are necessary during some part
of the year to keep up a full and
proper show of colour ; but in Novem-
ber and December the variety of flowers
is smallest, and in these two months it is very difficult to get
forced things well into bloom. Of course, some plants may
be made to bloom out of season, and others will be noticeable
for their foliage, and so the interest may be kept up; but, if
there be only one kind, as, for instance, Chrysanthemums, in
a house they grate on the sense of sightliness and beauty, for,
excellent as they may be, they are too much alike to furnish a
house well. In all conservatories variety, both of form and
colour, is an absolute necessity if the greatest effect is to be

Monthly List of Plants in Bloom. 371

produced, and althongb a large quantity of flowers in bloom is
not needed, yet some should be present, or the effect will be
■dull and heavy. Always, if possible, bave some plants in
bloom, even if only a scarlet pelargonium or two, as tbey show
up the others to much greater advantage. We pass over ar-
rangement here, as this must depend on individual taste, and
our readers must make the best of their plants according to
their fancy.

January. — Abutilon, Amaryllis, Begonia, Bouvardia, Calla,
■Camellia, Carnation, Chrysanthemum, Crocus, Cyclamen, Epi-
phyllum. Fuchsia, Galanthus, Heliotrope, Hyacinth, Jasmine,
Luculia, Laurestinus, Mignonette, Pelargonium zonale, Primula,
■Salvia, Solanum (berries), K-ose (in a few cases).

February. — Abutilon, Amaryllis, Am3^gdalus, Azalea, An-
nuals (if autumn sown), Begonia, Bouvardia, Calla, Camellia,
Carnation, Cerasus, Chrysanthemum, Cineraria, Crocus, Cycla-
men, Cytisus, Daphne, Deutzia, Epiphyllum, Fuchsia, Galanthus,
Heliotrope, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Lily of the Yalley, Luculia,
Lachenalia, Laurestinus, Mignonette, Pelargonium zonale, Per-
«ica, Polygonatum, Primula, Primrose, Rose, Scilla, Solanum
(berries), Spiraea, Tulip, Yiolet.

March. — Abutilon, Acacia, Amaryllis, Amygdalus, Arum,
Azalea, Annuals, Begonia, Bouvardia, Calla, Camellia, Cam-
panula, Carnation, Cerasus, Chimonanthus, Chorizema, Cine-
raria, Citrus, Coronilla, Crocus, Cyclamen, Cytisus, Daphne,
Deutzia, Dielytra, Dodecatheon, Epiphyllum, Erythronium,
Epacris, Fuchsia, Fritillaria, Galanthus, Habrothamnus, Helio-
trope, Hyacinth, Imantophyllum, Iris, Jasmine, Kerria, Lily of
the Yalley, Leucojum, Lachenalia, Laurestinus, Mignonette,
Muscari, Myosotis, Narcissus, Pelargonium (both Cape and
zonale), Persica, Petunia, Polygonatum, Primula, Primrose,
Rose, Scilla, Solanum (berries), Spirsea, Stock, Tropseolum,
Tulip, Yiolet.

April. — Abutilon, Abelia, Acacia, Amaryllis, Amygdalus,
Arum, Azalea, Annuals, Begonia, Bouvardia, Calampelis, Cal-

B e2

372 Greenhouse Manageinent for Amateurs.

ceolaria, Calla, Camellia, Campanula, Carnation, Cassia, Cerasus,
Chimonantlins, Chorizema, Cineraria, Citrus, Clematis, Coronilla,.
Cyclamen, Cytisus, Dapline, Deutzia, Dielytra, Dodecatlieon,
Epipliyllum, Erytlironium, Epacris, Fuchsia, Fritillaria, Ha-
brothamnns, Hj^acintli, Hydrangea, Imantopliyllum, Iris, Jas-
mine, Kalmia, Kerria, Lily of tlie Yalley, Leucojum, Lobelia^
Laclienalia, Laurestinus, Muscari, Myosotis, Narcissus, Oxalis,
Pelargonium (Cape, zonale, and double), Persica, Petunia
Polygonatum, Primula, Primrose, Rbodantlie, Pliododen-
dron, Rose, Scilla, Spirsea, Stock, Tropseolum, Tulip, Yiolet,
Weigelia.

May. — Abutilon, Abelia, Acacia, Ageratum, Amaryllis,.
Amygdalus, Antbericum, Arum, Azalea, Annuals, Begonia,
Boronia, Calampelis, Calceolaria, Calla, Camellia, Campanula^
Carnation, Cassia, Cerasus, Cbimonanthus, Cborizema, Cine-
raria, Citrus, Clematis, Coronilla, Cupbea, Cyclamen, Cytisus,.
Dapbne, Deutzia, Dielytra, Dodecatbeon, Epipbyllum, Erytbro-
nium, Epacris, Fritillaria, Habrotbamnus, Heliotrope, Hoya,
Hyacintb, Hydrangea, Imantopbyllum, Iris, Jasmine, Kalmia,.
Kerria, Lantana, Lily of tbe Yalley, Leucojum, Lobelia,.
Lacbenalia, Mignonette, Mimulus, Musk, Muscari, Myosotis,
Narcissus, Oxalis, Pelargonium (Cape, zonale, and double)^
Persica, Petunia, Polygonatum, Primula, Primrose, Rbodantbe,,
Rbododendron, Pose, Spirsea, Stock, Tropseolum, Yerbena^
Yiolet, Weigelia, Xantboceras.

June. — Abutilon, Abelia, Acacia, Ageratum, Amaryllis, Ana-
gallis, Azalea, Annuals, Begonia, Boronia, Bougainvillea,
Bouvardia, Brugmansia, Calampelis, Calceolaria, Campanula,
-Carnation, Cassia, Cbimonanthus, Chorizema, Cineraria, Citrus,.
Clematis, Cobaea, Cupbea, Cyclamen, Cytisus, Crassula, Deut-
zia, Dielytra, Dodecatbeon, Epipbyllum, Erytbronium, Epacris,
Fuchsia, Gazania, Habrotbamnus, Heliotrope, Hibbertia, Hoya,
Humea, Hydrangea, Iris, Jasmine, Kalmia, Kennedya, Lantana,
Lily of the Yalley, Lobelia, Mignonette, Mimulus, Musk, Myrtle,
Nierembergia, Nerium, Oxalis, Passiflora, Pelargonium, Petunia,
Phlox, Plumbago, Portulacca, E-hodanthe, Rhododendron, Rose,

Monthly List of Plants in Bloom. 373

Saxifraga, Spiraea, Stocks, Tropseolum, Yeroiiica, Yerbena,
Weigelia.

Jtily. — Abutilon, Agapantlms, Ageratum, Azalea, Annuals,
Balsam, Begonia, Boronia, Bougainvillea, Bonvardia, Bnig-
mansia, Calampelis, Calceolaria, Campanula, Carnation, Cassia,
Celosia, Cockscomb, Cborizema, Citrus, Clematis, Cobaea,
Cupbea, Crassula, Epipliyllum, Epacris, Fuchsia, Funkia, Ga-
zania, Habrotbamnus, Hedychium, Heliotrope, Hibbertia, Hoya,
Humea, Hydrangea, Ipomoea, Iris, Jasmine, Kennedya, Lantana,
Lilium, Lobelia, Mignonette, Mimulus, Musk, Myrtle, Nierem-
bergia, Nerium, Oxalis, Passiflora, Pelargonium, Petunia, Phlox,
Plumbago, Portulacca, Rhodanthe, Rhododendron, Rose, Saxi-
fraga, Schizanthus, Statice, Stock, Tacsonia, Tagetes, Tropseo-
lum, Yeronica, Yerbena.

August. — Agapanthus, Ageratum, Anagallis, Annuals, Bal-
sam, Begonia, Bougainvillea, Bouvardia, Brugmansia, Calam-
pelis, Campanula, Carnation, Cassia, Celosia, Cockscomb,
Chorizema, Clematis, Cobaea, Cuphea, Crassula, Epacris,
Fuchsia, Funkia, Habrothamnus, Gazania, Hedychium, Hib-
bertia, Hoya, Humea, Hydrangea, Heliotrope, Ipomoea, Iris,
Kennedya, Lantana, Lapageria, Lilium, Lobelia, Mignonette,
Mimulus, Musk, Nicotiana, Nierembergia, Xerium, Oxalis,
Passiflora, Pelargonium, Petunia, Phlox, Pittosi^orum, Plum-
bago, Portulacca, Rhodanthe, Rose, Saxifraga, Schizanthus,
Statice, Stocks, Tacsonia, Tagetes, Tropseolum, Yeronica,
Yerbena.

September. — Agapanthus, Ageratum, Anagallis, Asters,
Annuals, Balsam, Begonia, Bougainvillea, Bouvardia, Brug-
mansia, Calampelis, Calla, Campanula, Carnation, Celosia,
Cockscomb, Chrysanthemum, Clematis, Cuphea, Cobaea, Cras-
sula, Fuchsia, Funkia, Gazania, Habrothamnus, Hedychium,
Heliotrope, Hoya, Humea, Hydrangea, IpomcEa, Lantana, La-
pageria, Lilium, Lobelia, Mignonette, Musk, Nicotiana, Nierem-
bergia, Nerium, Oxalis, Passiflora, Pelargonium, Petunia, Phlox,
Pittosporum, Plumbago, Portulacca, Rhodanthe, Rose, Salvia,

374 Grcenlioiise Management for Amateurs.

ScMzantliiis, Solaniim (berries), Statice, Stock, Tacsonia, Ta-
getes, Tropseoliim, Yeronica, Yerbena.

October. — Ageratum, Asters, Annuals, Balsam, Begonia,
Bougainvillea, Bouvardia, Brugmansia, Calla, Camellia, Cam-
panula, Carnation, Celosia, Cockscomb, Cbrysantbemum, Cle-
matis, Cupliea, Cyclamen, Fucbsia, Gazania, Habrothamnus,
Heliotrope, Hoya, Ipomcea, Lantana, Lapageria, Lobelia,
Mignonette, Musk, Nicotiana, Passiflora, Pelargonium, Petunia,
Phlox, Pittosporum, Plumbago, Portulacca, Rhodantlie, Hose,
Salvia, Scbizantlius, Solanum (berries), Statice, Stock, Tagetes,
Yeronica, Yerbena.

November. — Ageratum, Asters, Annuals, Begonia, Bouvar-
dia, Camellia, Carnation, Celosia, Clirysantliemum, Cyclamen,
Epiphyllum, Fuchsia, Gazania, Habrothamnus, Heliotrope,
Hoya, Ipomcea, Lantana, Laurustinus, Mignonette, Nicotiana,
Pelargonium, Plumbago, Primula, Rhodanthe, Salvia, Sclii-
zanthus, Solanum (berries). Stock, Tagetes, Yeronica.

December. — Amaryllis, Begonia, Bouvardia, Calla, Camellia,
Carnation, Ej)iphyllum, Fuchsia, Heliotrope, Lantana, Laurus-
tinus, Mignonette, Pelargonium, Salvia, Solanum (ben-ies),
Yeronica, and perhaps Roman Hyacinths.

It must be remembered that differences in the weather, and
in the treatment given to the various plants, will cause varia-
tions in the time at which particular plants come into bloom,
and while one year they bloom early, at others they will be late,
and vice versa. We have omitted some things from the above
list, and particularly such as are noticeable for their foliage
only, as these come in at various seasons, according to the
treatment given them, and not at fixed periods.

II^DEX.

Abelia, 62
Abutilon, G3
Acacia, 64
Acers, GG
Agapantbus. G7
Agave, 68
Ageratum, 70
Alonsoa, 71
Aloysia, 71
Amaryllis, 73
Amygdalus, 74
Anagallis, 75
Aniseed tree, 76
Annuals, 50

Half-hardy, 53

Hardy, 51

Tender, 55
Anthericum, 76
Ants, 38
Aphides, 40
April, plants in bloom, 371

Work for, 3G3
Aralia, 77
Araucaria, 79
Arum, 79
Asparagus, 81
Aspidistia, 82
Asters, 82
Astilbe, 83
Aucuba, 83
August, plants in bloom, 373

Work for, 349
Azalea, 86

Balsam, 90
Bambusa, 92
Begonia, 93

Bignonia, 96
Boiler, conical, 31

Gas, 26

Saddle, 33
Boronia, 97
Bougainvillea, 98
Bourbon rose, 303
Bouvardia, 100
Brugmansia, 103

Calampelis, 104
Calceolaria, herbaceous, 104

Shrubby, 167
Calendar of work, 348

January, 357

February. 359

March, 361

April, 363

May, 365

June, 366

July, 368

August, 349

September, 351

October, 353

November, 355

December, 357
Calla, 109
Calorigen stove, 24
Camellia, 111

Flowered balsam, 91

Japonica, 112
Campanula, 115
Canna, 117
Carnation, 120
Cassia, 122
Caterpillars. 42
Celosia, 123

37^

Index.

Centanrea, 124
Cerasus, 124

Chilian monkey puzzle, 79
Chimonanthus, 125
Chorizema, 125
Chrysanthemum, 126

Anemone -flowered pompone,
130

Chinaman, 127

Japanese, 128

Pompone, Model of Perfec-
tion, 131
Cineraria, 132
Citron, 135
Citrus, 135
Clemafis, 139
Clianthus, 140
Clivia, 143, 207
Cobsea, 143
Cocks'.^omb, 143
Coleus, 146
Coltsfoot, 339
Conical boiler, 26
Convallaria, 148
Coprosma, 148
Cordylioe, 149

Indivisa, 1G8
Coronilla, 149
Corraea, 149
Crassula, 151
Crocus, 151
Cucumbers, 3G5
Cultural directions, general, 50
Cuphea, 152
Curved roof house, 13
Cuttings, treatment of, 58
Cyclamen, 153
Cyperus, 156
Cjtisus, 157

Dactylis, 158

Daphne, 159

Darlingtonia, 161

December, plants in bloom, 374

Work for, 357
Deutzia, 162
Dicentra, 163
Dictionary of plants, 62

Dielytra, 163
Dionaea, 166
Dodecitheon, 166
Dog's-tooth violet, 177
Double camellia, 114
Dracaena, 168

Echeveria, 170
Epacris, 172
Epiphyllum, 173
Eriobotrya, 174
Erythrina, 176
Erythronium, 177
Eurya, 179

Febrnary, plants in bloom, 371

Work for, 359
Ficus, 180
Flax, 276

Flues for heating, 35
Frames, 6, 17
Fritillaria, 181
Fuchsia, 182
Fael, 30, 34
Funkia, 188

Galanthus, 188
Garden fuchsia, 185
Gas boiler, 26

For heating, 20
Gazania, 189
General remarks, 1
Genista, 157, 190
George's Calorigen stove, 21
Geranium, 191

Golden-rayed lily of Japan, 223
Grevillea, 191
Guernsey lily, 192

Habrothamnus, 192
Htemanthus, 193
Half-hardy annuals, 53
Half-span house, 14
Hardenbergia, 218

Index.

Zll

Hardy annuals, 51
Heating, 18

By hot water, 27

With flues, 35

With gas, 23

With hot air stoves, 21

With mineral oils, 19
Hedychium, 193
Heliotropium, 194
Herbaceous calceolaria, 104
Hibbertia, 197
Hot air stoves for heating, 21

Water for heating, 27
Hovea, 197
Hoya, 199
Humea, 200
Hyacinth, 201
Hydrangea, 204

Ice plant, 20B

Illicium, 207

Imantophyllum, 207

Indian garland flower, 193, 208

Indiambber plant, 208

Insecticide, Fowler's, 47

Insects, 37

Ants, 38

Aphides, 40

Caterpillar.-^, 42

Maggots, 43

Red spider, 43

Scale, 45

Snails and slugs, 44

Spider, 43

Thripa, 46

Weevils, 47

Wireworm, 47

Woodlice, 48
Ipomoea, 208
Iresine, 209
Iris, 211
laolepis, 213

January, plants in bloom, 371

Work for, 357
Japanese chrysanthemum, 128

Medlar, 174

Jasminum, 214

July, plants in bloom, 373

Work for, 368
June, plants in bloom, 372

Work for, 366

Kalmia, 216
Kalosanthes, 216
Kennnedya, 118
Kerria, 219

Lachenalia, 220
Lantana, 221
Lapageria, 223
Lasiandra., 225
Laurustinus, 227
Layering, 59
Leaf mould, 4
Lean-to house, 7
Lemon, 135

Verbena. 71
Leucojum, 227
Leucophyta, 227
Lilium, 228
Lily, golden- rayed, 228

Guernsey, 192

Of the valley, 230
List of plants in bloom, monthly,

370
Loam soils, 3
Lobelia, 233
Luculia, 236
Lux Calor stove, 25

Maggots, 43

Maiden loam soils, 3

Manures. 4

Maples, 67

March, plants in bloom, 371

Work for, 361
May, plants in bloom, 372

Work for, 365
Mesembryanthemum, 237
Mignonette, 239
Mildew, 49
Mimulus, 240

378

Index.

Mineral oils for heating, 19

Monkey pozzle, 79

Monthly calendar of work, 348

List of plants in bloom, 370
Moss rose, 302
Muscari, 242
Musk, 243
Myosotis, 244
Myrsiphylluoi, 245
Myrtle, 246

Nircissus, 247
Nerine, 249
Nerium, 250
Nesv Zealand flax, 276
Nicotiana, 251
Nierembergia, 252
Noisette rose, 304
November, plants in bloom, 374
Work for, 355

October, plants in bloom, 374

Work for, 353
Oleander, 250
Orange, 135, 254
Oxalis, 254

Pachyphytum, 255

Pancratium, 256

Paragon boiler, for mineral oil, 20

Passiflora, 258

Passion flower, 258

Peach, double, 273

Peat, 4

Pelargonium, 262

Persica, 273

Petunia, 273

Phlox Drummondii, 274

Phormium, 276

Pimelea, 276

Pittosporura, 278

Plants in flower in

January, 371

February. 371

March, 371

Plants in flower in

April, 371

May, 372

June, 372

July, 373

August, 373

September, 373

October, 374

November, 374

December, 374
Pleroma, 279
Plumbago, 280
Polygonatum, 281
Pompone, chrysanthemum, 131
Portulacca, 232
Pots and sands, 2
Prices of greenhoixses, 8
Primula, double, 292

Hardy, 23 i

Sinensis, 286
Propagation, 57
Pyrethrum aureum, 293

Raising seeds, 55

E.9d spider, 43

Eeineckia, 294

Repairing greenhouse, 369

Rtodanthe, 294

Rhododendron, 295

Richardia, 298

Ricinus, 298

Ritchie's Lax Calor stove, 25

Rochea, 298

Roellia, 299

Rose, 301

Bourbon, 303

Moss, 302

Noisette. 304

Tea, 305

Saddle boiler, 33
Salvia, 306
Sand and pots, 2
Sarracenia, 311
Saxifra°:a, 313
Scale, 45

Index.

379

Schizanthus, 314
Scilla, 315
Seeds, 50

Watering, 56
September, plants in bloom, 373

Work for, 351
Sericographi'a, 316
Silver sand, 4
Siphon for heating, 35
Snails and slags, 44
Snowdrop, 188, 318
Soils for seeds, 57
Leaf, 4

Maiden loam, 3
Peat, 4

Yellow loam, 3
Solanum, 318
Solomon's seal, 281
Span roof house, 15
Sparmannia, 320
Spider, 43
Spiraea, 322
Squills, 315
Statice, 324
Stock, 2
Stocks, 327
Stoves, Calorigen, 24

Lux Calor, 24
Sundries, 4

Tacsonia, 329
Tagetes, 329
Tapping vines, 366
Tea plant, 331

Rose, 305
Tecoma, 330

Temperature for cuttings, 60
Tender annuals, 55
Thalictrum, 330
Thea, 331
Tbrips, 46
Tobacco plant, 251

Powder for destroying insects,
41

Tradescantia, 332
Treatment of vines, 364
Tropaeolum, 333
Tulip, 336
Tussilago, 339

Ventilation. 2
Verbena, 340

Lemon, 71
Veronica, 342
Viburnum, 342
Vines, tapping, 366

Treatment of, 364
Violet, 344

Watering seeds, 56

Weevils, 47

Weigelia, 346

Wireworm, 47

Wood lice, 48

Work in January, 357
February, 359
March, 361
April, 363
May, 365
June, 366
July, 368
August, 349
September, 351
October, 353
November, 355
December, 357

Xanthoceras, 347

Tellow loam soils, 3

Zychia, 218

^©rns

^^.

1®

'^©eetables

&C., &C.9

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BIBBS, BRITISH, POR THE CAGE AND AVIARY. Illus-
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BOOKBINDING POR AMATEURS : Being Descriptions of the
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BULB CULTURE, POPULAR. A Practical Manual for the Amateur.
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BUNKUM ENTERTAINMENTS : A Collection of Original Laugh-
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BUTTERFLIES, THE BOOK OP BRITISH: A Practical
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BUTTERFLY AND MOTH COLLECTING: Where to Search,
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CACTUS CULTURE POR AMATEURS: Being Descriptions of
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CAGE BIRDS, DISEASES OF : Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treat-
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CANARY BOOK. The Breeding, Rearing, and Management of
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CANARY, THE PET. With some Instructions as to its Purchase,
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CARD TRICKS, BOOK OP, for Drawing-room and Stage Entertain-
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CARNATION CULTURE, for Amateurs. The Culture of Carnations
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CATS, DOMESTIC OR PANCY: A Practical Treatise on their
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CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE, for Amateurs and Professionals.
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COINS. A GUIDE TO ENGLISH PATTERN, in Gold, Silver,
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COINS OP GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, A GUIDE
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COLLIE, THE. Its History, Points, and Breeding. By Hugh Dalziel.
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COLLIE STUD BOOK. Edited by Hugh Dalziel. Price 3s. 6d. each,,
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Vol. I., containing Pedigrees of 1308 of the best-known Dogs, traced
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Vol. III. Pedigrees of 786 Dogs, Show Record, &c.

COLUMBARIUM, MOORE'S. Reprinted Verbatim from the original
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CONJURING, BOOK OP MODERN. A Practical Guide to Drawing-
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CONJURING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Handbook on How
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COOKERY rOR AMATEURS; or, French Dishes for EngHsh Homes
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CRICKET. The History of a Hundred Centuries, as Written by Dr..
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CUCUMBER CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. Including also
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CYCLIST'S ROUTE MAP of England and Wales. Shows clearly
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DESIGNING, HARMONIC. Explaining a System whereby an
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Manufactures may be obtained by Unskilled Persons from any Printed
Music. Illustrated by Numerous Explanatory Diagrams and Illustrative
Examples. By C.H.Wilkinson. Demy 4to, price £2 2s. [In the Press..

DOGS, BREAKING AND TRAINING : Being Concise Directions
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DOGS, BRITISH, ANCIENT AND MODERN : Their Varieties,
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Fanciers. SECOND EDITION, Revised and Enlarged. Illustrated with
First-class COLOURED PLATES and full-page Engravings of Dogs of
the Day. This is the fullest work on the various breeds of dogs kept in
England. In three volumes, demy 8vo, cloth gilt, price 10s. 6d. each, by
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Dog's Used in Field Sports. Containing Particulars of the follow-
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Foxhound, Harrier, Basset, Dachshund, Pointer, Setters, Spaniels, and
Retrievers. Seven Coloured Plates and 21 full-page Engravings.
Dogs Useful to Man in other Work than Field Sports;
House and Toy Dogs. Containing Particulars of the following^

170, Strand, London, W.C.

among other Breeds : Collie, Bulldog, Mastiff, St. Bernards, Newfoundland,
Great Dane, Fox and all other Terriers, King Charles and Blenheim
Spaniels, Pug, Pomeranian, Poodle, Italian G-reyhound, Toy Dogs, &c.,
&G. Coloured Plates and full-page Engravings.

Practical Kennel Management : A Complete Treatise on all
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the Show Bench, for the Field, or for Companions. Illustrated with
Coloured and numerous other Plates.

DOGS, DISEASES OP : Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment ;
Modes of Administering Medicines ; Treatment in cases of Poisoning, &c.
For the use of Amateurs. By Hugh Dalziel. Third Edition. In
paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d. ; in cloth gilt, 2s., by post 2s. Sd.

ENTERTAINMENTS, AMATEUR, POR CHARITABLE AND
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FANCY WORK SERIES, ARTISTIC. A Series of Illustrated
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PEATHERED PRIENDS, OLD AND NEW. Being the Expe-
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PERNS, THE BOOK OP CHOICE ; for the Garden, Conservatory,
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FERNS, CHOICE BRITISH. Descriptive of the most beautiful
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PERRETS AND PERRETING. Containing Instructions for the
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T'E'SLTUmTIY op eggs CERTIPICATE. These are Forms of
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FIREWORK-MAKING POR AMATEURS. A complete, accurate,
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PISHERMAN, THE PRACTICAL. Dealing with the Natural
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PISH, PLESH, AND POWL : When in Season, How to Select, Cook
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FOREIGN BIRDS, FAVOURITE, for Cages and Aviaries. How to
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FOX TERRIER, THE. Its History, Points, Breeding, Bearing, Pre-
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FOX TERRIER STUD BOOK. Edited by Hugh Dalziel. Price
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Vol. I., containing Pedigrees of over 1400 of the best-known Dogs,
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Vol. II. Pedigrees of 1544 Dogs, Show Eecord, &c.
Vol. III. Pedigrees of 1214 Dogs, Show Eecord, &c.
Vol. IV. Pedigrees of 1168 Dogs, Show Eecord, &c.
Vol. V. Pedigrees of 1G62 Dogs, Show Eecord, &c.

FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. A Practical Manual of
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FRIESLAND MERES, A CRUISE ON THE. By Ernest B.
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FRUIT CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. By J. T. Wright. With
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GAME AND GAME SHOOTING, NOTES ON. Grouse, Par-
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Eooks. By J. J. Manlet. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d.,
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GAMES, THE BOOK OF A HUNDRED. By Mart White.
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GARDENING, DICTIONARY OF. A Practical Encyclopsedia of
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Engravings. Edited by G. Nicholson, Curator of the Eoyal Botanic
Gardens, Kew ; assisted by Prof. Trail, M.D., Eev. P. W. Mylea,
B.A., F.L.S., W. Watson, J. Garrett, and other Specialists. In 4 vols.^
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GARDENING IN EGYPT. A Handbook of Gardening for Lower
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GOAT, BOOK OF THE. Containing Full Particulars of the various
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GOAT-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS : Being the Practical Manage-
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GRAPE GROWING FOR AMATEURS. A Thoroughly Practical
Book on Successful Vine Culture. By E. Moltneux. Illustrated. In
paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

GREENHOUSE MANAGEMENT FOR AMATEURS. The
Best Greenhouses and Frames, and How to Build and Heat them. Illus-
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Special Cultural Directions, and all necessary information for the

170, Strand, London, W.C.

Guidance of the Amateur. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged.

Magnificently Illustrated. By W. J. Mat. In cloth, gilt, 'price 5s.

hy post 5s. 4(2.
GREYHOUND, THE : Its History, Points, Breeding, Eearing, Training,

and Running. By Hugh Dalziel. With Coloured Frontispiece. In

cloth gilt, demy Svo, price 2s. 6(Z., hy post 2s. 9d.
OUINEA FIG, THE, for Food, Fur, and Fancy. Illustrated with

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Varieties of the Guinea Pig, and its Management. By C. Cumberland,

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HAND CAMERA MANUAL, THE. A Practical Handbook on all

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HANDWRITING, CHARACTER INDICATED BY. With Hlus-

trations in Support of the Theories advanced taken from Autograph

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HAWK MOTHS, BOOK OP BRITISH. A Popular and Practical

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HOME MEDICINE AND SURGERY: A Dictionary of Diseases

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HORSE-KEEPER, THE PRACTICAL. By George Fleming, C.B.,

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HORSE-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Manual on

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HORSES, DISEASES OF : Their Causes, Symptoms, and Treatment.

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INCUBATORS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT. By J. H.

SuTCLiEFE. Illustrated. In paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.
INLAND WATERING PLACES. A Description of the Spas of

Great Britain and Ireland, their Mineral Waters, and their Medicinal

Value, and the attractions which they offer to Invalids and other Visitors.

Profusely illustrated. A Companion Volume to ' ' Seaside Watering Places."

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JOURNALISM, PRACTICAL : How to Enter Thereon and Succeed.

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LAYING HENS, HOW TO KEEP and to Rear Chickens in Large

or Small Numbers, in Absolute Confinement, with Perfect Success. By

Major G. F. Morant. In paper, price Qd., hy post 7d.
LIBRARY MANUAL, THE. A Guide to the Formation of a Library,

and the Values of Rare and Standard Books. By J. H. Slater,

Barrister-at-Law. Third Edition. Revised and Greatly Enlarged. In

cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d., hy post 7s. lOd.
MAGIC LANTERNS, MODERN, A Guide to the Management

of the Optical Lantern, for the Use of Entertainers, Lecturers,

8 Published by L. Upcott Gill,

Photographers, Teachers, and others. By R. Child Batlet. In
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MICE, PANCT : Their Varieties, Management, and Breeding. Third
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representing different varieties, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

MILLINERY, HANDBOOK OP. A Practical Manual of Instruction
for Ladies. Illustrated. By Mme. Eosee, Court Milliner, Principal of
the School of Millinery, hi paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

MODEL YACHTS AND BOATS: Their Designing, Making, and
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MONKEYS, PET, and How to Manage Them. Illustrated. By Arthur
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MOUNTAINEERING, WELSH. A Complete and Handy Guide to
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the Welsh Mountains. By A. W. Perry. With numerous Maps.
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MUSHROOM CULTURE POR AMATEURS. With Full Directions
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post Is. 2d.

NATURAL HISTORY SKETCHES among the Carnivora — Wild and
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NEEDLEWORK, DICTIONARY OP. An Encyclopedia of Artistic,
Plain, and Fancy Needlework ; Plain, practical, complete, and
magnificently Illustrated. By S. F. A. Caulfeild and B. C. Saward.
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ORCHIDS : Their Culture and Management, with Descriptions
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Plates and Engravings. By W. Watson, Assistant-Curator,
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Gardens, Kew. Second Edition, Revised and with Extra Plates. In
cloth gilt and gilt edges, price £1 Is., hy post £1 Is. lOd.

PAINTERS AND THEIR WORKS. A Work of the Greatest
Value to Collectors and such as are interested in Art, as it gives,
besides Biographical Sketches of all the Artists of Repute (not now
living) from the 13th Century to the present date, the Market Value
of the Principal Works Painted by Them, with Full Descriptions of
Same. In 3 vols., cloth, price 15s. per vol., or 37s. 6d. the set of 3.

FAINTING, DECORATIVE. A practical Handbook on Painting and
Etching upon Textiles, Pottery, Porcelain, Paper, Vellum, Leather, Glass,
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PARCEL POST DISPATCH BOOK (registered). An invaluable book
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parcels are insured against loss or damage to the extent of £2.
Authorized by the Post Office. Price Is., by post Is. 2d., for 100
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170, Strand, London, W.C.

PARROT, THE GREY, and How to Treat it. By W. T. Greene,
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PARROTS, THE SFEAEINCr. The Art of Keeping and Breeding
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price 5s., by post 5s. 4d.

PATIENCE, GAMES OP, for one or more Players. How to Play
106 different Games of Patience. By Miss Whitmobe Jones. Illus-
trated. Series I., 39 games ; Series II., 34 games ; Series III., 83
games. Each Is., by post Is. 2d. The three bound together in cloth,
price 3s. 6d., by post 3s. lOd.

PEN PICTURES, and How to Draw Them. A Practical Handbook on
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PERSPECTIVE, THE ESSENTIALS OP. With numerous
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PHEASANT-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Hand-
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PHOTOGRAPHY (MODERN) POR AMATEURS, New and
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PIANOFORTES, TUNING AND REPAIRING. The Amateur's
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of a Professional. By Charles Babbington. In paper, price 6d., by
post 6^d.

PICTURE-FRAME MAKING FOR AMATEURS. Being Practi-
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LuKiN. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

PIG, BOOK OF THE. The Selection, Breeding, Feeding, and
Management of the Pig ; the Treatment of its Diseases ; the Curing
and Preserving of Hams, Bacon, and other Pork Foods ; and other
information appertaining to Pork Farming. By Professor James Long.
Fully Illustrated with Portraits of Prize Pigs, Plans of Model Piggeries,
&c. In cloth gilt, price 10s. 6d., by post lis. Id.

PIG-KEEPING, PRACTICAL: A Manual for Amateurs, based on
Personal Experience in Breeding, Feeding, and Fattening; also in
Buying and Selling Pigs at Market Prices. By E. D. Gabbatt. In
paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d.

PIGEONS, FANCY. Containing Full Directions for the Breeding and
Management of Fancy Pigeons, and Descriptions of every known
Variety, together with all other information of interest or use to Pigeon
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time. 18 COLOUEED PLATES, and 22 other full-page Illustrations.
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PIGEON-KEEPING FOR AMATEURS. A complete Guide to the
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POLISHES AND STAINS FOR WOODS : A Complete Guide to
Polishing Woodwork, with Directions for Staining, and Full Information

10 Published hy L. Upcott G-ill,

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POOL, GAMES OP. Describing Various English and American
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POTTERY AND PORCELAIN, ENGLISH. A Guide for
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hi/ post 5s. 4:d.

POULTRY-KEEPING, POPULAR. A Practical and Complete
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POULTRY AND PIGEON DISEASES : Their Causes, Symptoms,
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POULTRY POR PRIZES AND PROFIT. Contains : Breeding
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RABBIT, BOOK OP THE. A Complete Work on Breeding and
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RABBITS, DISEASES OP: Their Causes, Symptoms, and Cure.
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RABBIT-PARMING, PROFITABLE. A Practical Manual, show-
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RABBITS FOR PRIZES AND PROFIT. The Proper Manage-
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Exhibition Rabbits. Being descriptions of all Varieties of
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REPOUSSE WORK FOR AMATEURS : Being the Art of Oma-
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ROAD CHARTS (Registered). For Army Men, Volunteers, Cyclists,
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ROSES FOR AMATEURS. A Practical Guide to the Selection and
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SAILING GUIDE TO THE SOLENT AND POOLE
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170, Strand, London, W.C. 11

SAILING TOURS. The Yachtman's Guide to the Cmising Waters
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in Colours, showing Deep water, Shoals, and Sands exposed at low water,
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Vol. I., the Coasts of Essex and Suffolk, from the Thames to Aid-
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Vol. V. The Coasts of Scotland and the X.E. of England down
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ST. BERNARD, THE. Its History, Points, Breeding, and Bearing.
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ST.- BERNARD STUD BOOK. Edited by Hugh Dalziel. Price
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Vol. I. Pedigrees of 1278 of the best known Dogs, traced to their
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SEA-FISHING FOR AMATEURS. Practical Instructions to
Visitors at Seaside Places for Catching Sea-Fish from Pier-heads, Shore,
or Boats, principally by means of Hand Lines, with a very useful List of
Fishing Stations, the Fish to be caught there, and the Best Seasons.
By Frank Hudson. Illustrated. In paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

SEA-FISHING ON THE ENGLISH COAST. The Art of Making
and Using Sea-Tackle, with a full account of the methods in vogue
during each month of the year, and a Detailed Guide for Sea-Fishermen
to all the most Popular Watering Places on the English Coast. By
F. G. Aflalo. Illustrated. In cloth, price 2s. 6d., hy post 2s. 9d.

SEASIDE WATERING PLACES. A Description of the Holiday
Resorts on the Coasts of England and Wales, the Channel Islands,
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tions, and all information likely to assist persons in selecting places in
which to spend their Holidays according to their individual tastes.
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SHADOW ENTERTAINMENTS, and How to Work Them: being
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SHAVE, AN EASY : The Mysteries, Secrets, and Whole Art of, laid
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SHEET METAL, WORKING IN: Being Practical Instructions for
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Brass. Illustrated. Third Edition. By the Rev. J. Lukin, B.A. In
paper, price Is., hy post Is. Id.

SHORTHAND, ON GURNET'S SYSTEM (IMPROVED),
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used in the Service of the two Houses of Parliament. By R. E. Miller.
In paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

12 Published by L. Upcott Gill,

SHORTHAND, EXERCISES IN, for Daily Half Hours, on a Newly-
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SHORTHAND SYSTEMS; WHICH IS THE BEST? Being a
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principal Systems, with Illustrative Examples. Edited by Thomas
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SKATING CARDS : An Easy Method of Learning Figure Skating, as
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SLEIGHT OF HAND. A Practical Manual of Legerdemain for
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SNAKES, MARSUPIALS, AND BIRDS. A Charming Book of
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STAMPS, POSTAGE, and their Collection. A Practical Handbook
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and Bradford. Profusely Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d., hy
post 3s. dd. [hi the Press.

TAXIDERMY, PRACTICAL. A Manual of Instruction to the
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Montagu Browne, F.Z.S., Curator of Leicester Museum. Second
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THAMES GUIDE BOOK. From Lechlade to Eichmond. For Boating
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In paper, price Is. hy post Is. 3d. ; cloth. Is. 6d., hy post Is. 9d.

TOMATO AND PRUIT GROWING as an Industry for Women.
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and August, 1893. By Grace Harriman, Practical Fruit Grower
and County Council Lecturer. In paper, price Is., hy post Is. Id.

TOMATO CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. A Practical and very
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TOYMAEING POR AMATEURS : Being Instructions for the
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trated. By James Lukin, B.A. I7i cloth, price 2s. 6d., hy post 2s. lOd.

TRAPPING, PRACTICAL: Being some Papers on Traps and
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TURKEY, THE. A Handy Manual for both the Amateur and Pro-
fessional Breeder of the Turkey, describing its Characteristics, Varieties,
and Management. By W. Willis-Harris, Vice-President of the
Turkey Club. In paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

TURNING POR AMATEURS : Being Descriptions of the Lathe and
its Attachments and Tools, with Minute Instructions for their Effective
Use on Wood, Metal, Ivory, and other Materials. Second Edition,

170, Strand, Lmidon, W.C. 13

Eevised and Enlarged. By James Lukin, B.A. Illtistrated with 144
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TURNING LATHES. A Manual for Technical Schools and Apprentices.

A guide to Turning, Screw-cutting, Metal-spinning, &c. Edited by

James Lukin, B.A. Third Edition. "With 194 Illustrations. In cloth

gilt, price 3s., hy post 3s. 3d.
VAMP, HOW TO. A Practical Guide to the Accompaniment of Songs

by the Unskilled Musician. With Examples. In paper, price 9d., hy

post lOd.

VEGETABLE CULTURE FOR AMATEURS. Containing Concise
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insure Good Crops. With Lists of the Best Varieties of each Sort. By
W. J. Mat. Illustrated. In paper, price Is., hy post Is. 2d.

VENTRILOQUISM, PRACTICAL. A thoroughly reliable Guide to
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Numerous Illustrations. In cloth, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s. 9d.

VIOLINS (OLD) AND THEIR MAKERS: Including some
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VIOLIN SCHOOL, PRACTICAL, for Home Students. Instructions
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WAR MEDALS AND DECORATIONS. A Manual for Collectors,,
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WHIPPET AND RACE-DOG, THE : How to Breed, Eear, Train,
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price 3s. 6d., by post 3s. lOd.

WHIST : MODERN SCIENTIFIC. A Practical Manual on New
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WILDPOWLING, PRACTICAL : A Book on Wildfowl and Wildfowl
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circumstances. Profusely Illustrated. Demy 8vo, price 12s. 6d., by
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WINDOW TICKET WRITING. Containing full Instructions on the
Method of Mixing and Using the Various Inks, &c., required, Hints on
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Writing, Japanning on Tin, &c. Especially written for the use of
Learners and Shop Assistants. By Wm. C. Scott. In paper, price Is.,
by post Is. 2d.

WIRE AND SHEET GAUGES OF THE WORLD. Compared;
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price Is., hy post Is. Id.

WOOD CARVING FOR AMATEURS. Full Instructions for pro-
ducing all the different varieties of Carvings. 2nd Edition. Edited by
D. Denning. Price Is., by post Is. 2d.

PUBLISHED BY E. and F. N. SPON.

RECENTLY PUBLISHED.

Crown 4to, full gilt, fancy cloth, 478 pages Letterpress and 735 Engravings, price 7/6.

POPULAR ENGINEERING:

BEING INTERESTING AND INSTRUCTIVE EXAMPLES IN

CIVIL, MECHANICAL, ELECTRICAL, CHEMICAL, MINING,
MILITARY, and NAVAL ENGINEERING,

GRAPHICALLY AND PLAINLY DESCRIBED AND

Specially Written for those about to enter the Engineering Profession and the
Scientific Amateur. With Chapters upon

PERPETUAL MOTION and ENGINEERING COLLEGES and SCHOOLS.

MECHANICS' OWN BOOK.

SPONS' MECHANICS' OWN BOOK:

A MANUAL FOR HANDICRAFTSMEN AND AMATEURS.

Complete in One large Vol., demy 8vo, cloth, containing 700 pp. and 1420 Illustrations.

Fourth Edition, 6/- or half-bound, French morocco, 7/6.

Contents :

Mechanical Drawing; Casting and Founding in Iron, Brass, Bronze, and other Alloys;
Forging and Finishing Iron ; Sheet Metal Working ; Soldering, Brazing, and Burning ;
Carpentry and Joinery, embracing descriptions of some 400 -woods; over 200 Illustrations of
Tools and their lT?es: Explanations (with Diagrams) of 116 Joints and Hinges, and Details of
Construction of Workshop AppUance* ; Bough Fm-nitiire, Garden and Yard Erections, and
House-Building; Cabinet-making and Veneering; Carving and Fret-cutting; Upholstery;
Painting, Graining and Marbling; Staining Furniture, Woods, Floors and Fittings; Gilding,
Dead and Bright, on various Grounds; Polishing Marble, Metals and Wood; Varnishing;
Mechanical Movements, illustrating contrivances for transmitting Motion ; Turning in Wood
and Metals; Masonry, embracing Stonework, Brickwork, Terra-cotta, and Concrete; Roofing
with Thatch, Tiles, Slates, Felt, Zinc, &c. ; Glazing with and without Putty, and Lead Glazing ;
Plastering and Whitewashing; Paper-hanging; Gas-fitting; Bell-hanging, Ordinary and
Electric Systems ; Lighting; Warming; Ventilating; Boads, Pavements and Bridges ; Hedges,
Ditches and Drains; Water Supply and Sanitation; Hints on House Construction suited to
New Countries.

HOUSEHOLD MANUAL.

SPONS' HOUSEHOLD MANUAL;

A TREASURY OF DOMESTIC RECEIPTS AND GUIDE FOR HOME

MANAGEMENT.

Demy 8vo, cloth, containing 975 pp. and 250 Illustrations, price 7/6; or half-bound,

French morocco, 9/-

JPrincipal Contents :

Hints for selecting a good House ; Sanitation ; Water Supply ; Ventilation and Warming ;
Lighting; Furniture and Decoration; Thieves and Fire; The Larder; Curing Foods for
lengthened Preservation; The Dairy; The Cellar; The Pantry; The Kitchen; Receipts for
Dishes; The Housewife's Room; Housekeeping, Marketing ; The Dining-room ; The Drawing-
room ; The Bed-room ; The Nursery ; The Sick-room ; The Bath-room ; The Laundry ; The
School-room ; The Playground ; The "Work-room ; The Library ; The Garden ; The Farmyard ;
Small Motors ; Household Law.

London : E. & F. N. SPON, 125, Strand.
New York: SPON & CHAMBERLAIN, 12, Cortlandt Street.

HOWLANDS' MTICLES

For the HAIR, COMPLEXION, & TEETH, are the
PUREST AND BEST.

llWL^' ODONTO,

An antiseptic, preservative, and aromatic den-
tifrice, which whitens the teeth, prevents and
arrests decay, and sweetens the breath. It
contains no mineral acids, no gritty matter or
injurious astringents, keeps the mouth, gums,
and teeth free from the unhealthy action of
germs in organic matter between the teeth,
and is the most wholesome tooth-powder for
smokers. It is most beautifully perfumed,
and is a perfect luxury for the toilet-table of
everybody. 2s. 9d. per box.

ROWLANDS' MACASSAR OIL

Is'the'best preserver and beautifier of the hair of children and adults ; prevents
it falling off or turning grey, eradicates scurf and dandruff, and is also the best
brilliantine for ladies' and everybody's use, and as a little goes a very long way
it really is most economical for general use ; is also sold in a golden colour for
fair-haired ladies and children ; it contains no lead or mineral ingredients, has
a most delightfully fragrant bouquet of roses, and is considered the most perfect
toilet luxury ever produced. Bottles, 3s. 6d., 7s., 10s. 6d.

ROWLANDS' KALYDOR,

A most cooling, soothing, healing, and refreshing preparation for the Skin and
Complexion of Ladies, and all exposed to the summer sun and dust, or the cold
and damp of winter ; it is warranted free from all mineral or metallic ingre-
dients, or oxide of zinc, of which most Cosmetics are composed, and which ruin
the skin. It effectually disperses Chaps, Chilblains, Freckles, Tan, Sunburn,
Stings of Insects, Redness, Roughness of the Skin ; relieves Irritation of the
Skin, Prickly Heat, &c., renders the

SKIN SOFT AND SMOOTH,

and produces a [beautiful, pure, and delicate complexion. Size 4s. 6d. and
8s. 6d. ; half-sized bottles, 2s. 3d.

ROWLANDS' ESSENCE OF TYRE

effectually dyes red or grey hair a permanent brown or black. 4s.

ROWLANDS' EUKONIA.

A pure Toilet Powder in three tints. White Rose, and Cream, for ladies of a
Brunette complexion and those who do not like white powder. Boxes, Is. ;
large boxes, 2s. 6d.

Ask Chemists for ROWLANDS' ARTICLES, of 20, HATTON

GARDEX, LONDON, and avoid spurious imitations.

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DOG CAKES.

JPamphlet on CANIJU^E DISEASES GRATIS,

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