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Full text of "The grey city of the north : a book of drawings"

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FPRAW 



T-M-FOVL.fi 



March IQIS. 



Printed by McLagan & CuiinitiHg, Edinburgh. 



.MAPPINQTON '3 -EMTRY 

THE- ASSEMBLY -ROOMS 

THE -ORATORY - 

APVOCATEV- CLOSE 

THE- ANCIENT- PARLIAMENT -HOUSE 



LAPY-STAIR'S -CLOSE - 
THE-HETHER -BOW-PORT = 
SMOLLETT '5 -MOV5E 
BAKEHOUSE -CLOSE - 
THE-FOVNTAIH 
QVEEN -MARY'S "BATH " 
CLOSE 



THE-WKITE -HORSE-INN 
LAMB3- CLOSE - 
TTHB^CVNZIE-HGVSE 

-cu 

"THE -COLLEGE WYHD 

H-THE-WE3T-P< 




1823895 



I. 



IN THIS ALLEY WAS TIIK ENTRANCE TO THE TOWN 
HOUSE OF THE EARLS OF HADDINGTON, ABUTTING 
ON THE SOUTH END OF THE CANONGATE. ACCESS TO 
THE ENTRY WAS OBTAINED THROUGH A COURTYARD 
AT THE END OF REID'S CLOSE, CANONGATE. 



II. 



THE FIRST PUBLIC ASSEMBLY WAS HELD IX EDIN- 
BURGH IN THE YEAR I7IO, AND SEEMS TO HAVE MET 
WITH A SOMEWHAT MIXED RECEPTION, AS OX OXE 
OCCASION THE OLD ASSEMBLY ROOMS WERE ATTACK- 
ED AND THE DOOR BURNED WITH RED HOT SPITS. 
THE DANCING HOWEVER, WAS CONDUCTED WITH 
SEVEREST DECORUM, UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF A 
LADY DIRECTRESS. LADIES AND GENTLEMEN WERE 
SEPARATED, AND MET ONLY TO WALK A FORMAL 
MIXLIET OR COUNTRY DANCE. LATER THE EDIX- 
BURGH ASSEMBLIES WERE AMONG THE CHIEF SOCIAL 
FUNCTIONS OF THE DAY, AND BECAME FAMOUS OX AC- 
COUNT OF THE NUMEROUS BEAUTIES WHO ATTENDED 
THEM. 



III. 



THIS BUILDING, DESTROYED IN 1845, STOOD ON THE 
EAST SIDE OF BLYTH's CLOSE ON THE CASTLE HILL 
UNDER THE PROTECTION OF THE CASTLE GUNS. TO 
THE PALACE OPPOSITE CAME MARY OF GUISE WITH 
HER INFANT DAUGHTER, AFTER THE ENGLISH IN- 
VASION OF 1544, AND QUEEN MARY IN LATER YEARS, 
AFTER THE MURDER OF RIZZIO, AGAIN RESIDED 
THERE. THE INTERNAL DECORATIONS OF THE ORA- 
TORY, ESPECIALLY THE CARVING IN OAK, WERE EX- 
CEPTIONALLY FINE, AND PROBABLY THE FINEST TO 
BE FOUND IN OLD EDINBURGH. 



IV. 



THIS DARK AND STEEP Al.I.EY TOOK ITS NAME FROM 
SIR JAMES STEWART OF GOODTREES, LORD ADVOCATE 
OF SCOTLAND, 1692-1713, WHOSE MANSION STOOD AT 
THE FOOT OF THE CLOSE. IT WAS A FASHIONABLE 
QUARTER IN THE EARLY l8TH CENTURY, AND HERE 
RESIDED ANDREW CROSBIE, THE FAMOUS LAWYER, 
THE ORIGINAL OF SCOTT'S "ANDREW PLEYDELL," 
LORD WESTHALL, JOHN SCOUGALL, THE PAINTER OF 
GEORGE HERIOT, AND MANY WELL-KNOWN PEOPLE 
OF THE TIME. 



V. 



THIS OLD HOUSE PROBABLY DERIVES ITS NAME FROM 
ITS SITUATION IN PARLIAMENT SQUARE, LEITH, 
CLOSE TO THE ANCIENT COUNCIL HOUSE, WHICH 
ONE WRITER THINKS WAS THE RESIDENCE OF THE 
REGENT LENNOX, THIS HOUSE BEING THE SUPPOSED 
MEETING PLACE OF HIS COUNCILS. 



-:. -J^f'-'' 




VI. 



A TURRET AT AN ANGLE OF THE CASTLE WALL ON 
THE NORTH SIDE OF THE ROCK, IS KNOWN AS THE 

QUEEN'S POST. IT is BUILT ON THE SITE OF ST MAR- 
GARET'S TOWER. 



VII. 



THIS WAS ONE OF THE OLDEST HOUSES IN THE HIS- 
TORIC WEST BOW. ITS DATE IS UNCERTAIN, HOWEVER, 
AND NOTHING IS KNOWN OF ITS OWNERS. IT BORE 
THE IRON CROSS OF THE KNIGHTS TEMPLAR. OVER 
THE LINTEL OF THE DOORWAY WAS THE MOTTO "HE- 
YT-THOLIS-OVERCUMMIS" (HE THAT BEARS, OVER- 
COMES), AND ITS CEILINGS WERE VERY FINELY 
DECORATED IN l6TH CENTURY STYLE. ANOTHER 
MANSION BEARING THE SAME NAME STOOD IN EASTER 
PORTSBURGH, OR POTTERROW. 



VIII. 

ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE LAVVNMARKET IS LADY 
STAIR'S CLOSE, WHERE LIVED THE LEADER OF EDIN- 
BURGH SOCIETY IN THE EARLY PART OF THE l8TH 

CENTURY, ELIZABETH, DOWAGER COUNTESS OF STAIR. 
THIS LADY'S MARRIED LIFE WAS VERY ADVENTUROUS, 
AND FORMED THE FOUNDATION FOR SCOTT'S TALE, 
"MY AUNT MARGARET'S MIRROR." HER HOUSE HAS 
NOW PASSED INTO THE POSSESSION OF LORD ROSEBERY 



"THE NETHERBOW PORT MIGHT BE CALLED THE 
TEMPLE BAR OF EDINBURGH, AS, INTERSECTING THE 
HIGH STREET AT ITS TERMINATION, IT DIVIDED EDIN- 
BURGH, PROPERLY SO CALLED, FROM THE SUBURB 
NAMED THE CANONGATE, AS TEMPLE BAR SEPARATES 
LONDON FROM WESTMINSTER." Heart of Midlothian 

ITS DOOM WAS PRONOUNCED BY QUEEN CAROLINE 
AFTER THE PORTEOUS RIOT OF 1736, BUT IT LIVED 
TO BE TAKEN AGAIN BY PRINCE CHARLIE'S ARMY IN 
1745, AND WAS FINALLY DEMOLISHED NINETEEN 
YEARS LATER. 



; ' DURING HIS LAST VISIT TO EDINBURGH IN 1766 
THE VISIT WHICH OCCASIONED "HUMPHREY CLINK- 
ER" SMOLLETT LIVED IN HIS SISTER'S HOUSE AT 
THE HEAD OF ST. JOHN STREET FIRST DOOR UP. A 
PERSON WHO RECOLLECTS SEEING HIM THERE DE- 
SCRIBES HIM AS DRESSED IN BLACK CLOTHES, TALL, 
AND EXTREMELY HANDSOME. HE WAS VERY PEEV- 
ISH ON ACCOUNT OF THE ILL HEALTH TO WHICH 
HE HAD SO LONG BEEN A MARTYR." 

Traditions of Edinburgh. 



NO. 146 CANONGATE. THE DRAWING REPRESENTS 
THE BACK OF THE PICTURESQUE WOODEN GABLED 
HOUSE OF THE MARQUIS OF HUNTLY. IN THIS CLOSE 
ALSO IS THE MANSION OF ACHESON OF GLENCAIRNEY 
ANCESTOR OF THE EARLS OF GOSFORD. 



XII. 

THIS FOUNTAIN, WHICH STANDS IN THE CENTRE OF 
PALACE YARD, HOLYROOD, WAS ERECTED BY THE 
LATE PRINCE CONSORT. IT IS A FACSIMILE OF THE 
OLD RUINED FOUNTAIN IN THE QUADRANGLE OF 
LINI.ITHGOW PALACE. 



XIII. 

IN THIS SMAI.I. LODGE, TRADITION HAS IT THAT 
QUEEN MARY BATHED HERSELF IN WHITE WINE. IT 
WAS FORMERLY ENCLOSED WITHIN THE PALACE 
GROUNDS, AND IS SUPPOSED TO BE CONNECTED WITH 
THE ESCAPE OF THE MURDERERS OF RIZZIO. A SMALL 
INLAID DAGGER WAS FOUND HIDDEN IN THE ROOF 
WHEN THE BUILDING WAS UNDERGOING REPAIR 
DURING LAST CENTURY. 



XIV. 

A PICTURESQUE, BUT DILAPIDATED CLOSE, ENTERING 
FROM THE WEST PORT AND ABUTTING ON THE 
WESTERN SIDE OK THE GRASSMARKET. IT WAS RE- 
MOVED IN THE LATTER HALF OF LAST CENTURY, ITS 
SITE BEING OCCUPIED BY THE BUILDING, NOW HEAR- 
ING THE CITY OF EDINBURGH AND CITY OF GLASGOW 
ARMS, WHICH WAS THE EDINBURGH OFFICE OF THE 
CITY OF GLASGOW BANK. 



XV. 



THIS FINE OLD HOUSE, STANDING ON THE SOUTH 
SIDE OF THE LAWNMARKET, WAS BUILT ABOUT THE 
YEAR 1540, AND STOOD UNCHANGED UNTIL TAKEN 
DOWN IN 1878. "ITS NORTH FRONT IS NOT DEFICI- 
ENT IN ELEGANCE, THERE BEING DORIC PILASTERS 
OF TIMBER INTERSPERSED WITH THE WINDOWS OF 
ONE FLOOR, AND SOME DECORATIONS ON THE GABLE 
PRESENTED TO THE STREET." 



A VERY OLD CLOSE, LYING TO THE NORTH OK QUEEN 
STREET, LEITH. THE ARCHITECTURE OF THE ANCIENT 
TENEMENT IN THE DRAWING IS A CURIOUS EXAMPLE 
OF THE TASTE OF THE OWNER OR THE DESIGNER, 
EVERY POSSIBLE DEVIATION FROM THE VERTICAL OR 
HORIZONTAL BEING INTRODUCED INTO THE GABLE 
TO GIVE IT SOME DISTINCTION ABOVE ITS VERY 
COMMONPLACE NEIGHBOURS. 



XVII. 

"THE OLDEST HOUSE KNOWN TO HAVE KEEN USED 
IN THE CHARACTER OF AN INN IS ONE SITUATED IN 
THE WHITEHORSE CLOSE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE 
CANONGATE A GOODLY STRUCTURE OF ANTIQUE 
FASHION HAVING TWO OUTSIDE STAIRS CURIOUSLY 
ARRANGED, AND THE WHOLE REMINDING US OF CER- 
TAIN HOUSES STILL REMAINING IN THE NETHER- 
LANDS." Traditions of Edinburgh. THE BUILDING 
DATES FROM THE YEAR 1623, AND WOULD SEEM TO BE 
THE RENDEZVOUS, IMMORTALISED IN " WAVERI.EY," 
OF PRINCE CHARLIE'S OFFICERS IN THE '45. 



THE: -WHITE- HORSE:' INH 




A SOLID SUBSTANTIALLY BUILT CLOSE ENTERING 
FROM ST GILES* STREET, LEITH, SIMILAR IN STYLE 
OF ARCHITECTURE TO SEVERAL OF THE OLD EDIN- 
BURGH CLOSES OF THE PERIOD. 



THE CUNZIK HOUSE, OR CUNYIE-NOOK AS IT WAS 
CALLED, WAS ONE OF THE SEVERAL EDINBURGH 
MINTS, AND WAS SITUATED AT THE FOOT OF CANDLE- 
MAKER ROW ON THE WEST SIDE. ALL KINDS OF 
ANCIENT SCOTTISH COIN WERE ISSUED FROM THIS 
BUILDING FROM THE LORDLY ANGEL-PIECE AND 
NOBLE TO THE HUMBLE PENNY AND BAWBEE. IT 
WAS IN ACTIVE OPERATION DURING THE REGENCY 
OF MARY OF GUISE. 



TFTT- CVH 2TFr^HOV5E 




XX. 



THIS CLOSE IS CHIEFLY NOTABLE AS CONTAINING THE 
RESIDENCE OF THE BEAUTIFUL SUSANNAH, COUNTESS 
OF EGLINTON. SHE HAS BEEN DESCRIBED AS " SOME- 
WHAT OF A BLUE-STOCKING, DEVOTED TO MUSIC AND 
THE MOST CONSPICUOUS PATRONESS OF THE SCOTTISH 
MUSES IN HER DAY." TO HER ALLAN RAMSAY DEDI- 
CATED "THE GENTLE SHEPHERD." ONE OF THE 
SIGHTS OF THE TIMES WAS THE PROCESSION IN SEI >AN 
CHAIRS OF THE COUNTESS, WITH HER SEVEN BEAUTI- 
FUL DAUGHTERS, FROM STAMP OFFICE CLOSE TO THE 
ASSEMBLY ROOMS. 



A NARROW DISMAL ALLEY LEADING FROM THE COW- 
GATE TO THE BUILDINGS OF THE OLD COLLEGE OF 
EDINBURGH, AND IN EARLIER DAYS TO THE COLLEG- 
IATE CHURCH OF "ST MARY, IN THE FIELDS" 
WHICH GAVE THE WYND ITS ORIGINAL NAME. 
"THE ONE PECULIAR GLORY OF THIS HUMBLE PLACE 
IS THAT IT WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF SIR WALTER 
SCOTT. IN THE THIRD FLOOR OF A HOUSE ON THE 
EAST SIDE, ACCESSIBLE BY AN ENTRY LEADING TO A 
COMMON STAIR BEHIND, DID THIS DISTINGUISHED 
PERSON SEE THE LIGHT ON I5TH AUGUST, 1 77 1. TO 
THE UNHEALTHINESS OF THE SITUATION SIR WALTER 
HIMSELF USED TO ATTRIBUTE THE EARLY DEATHS OK 
SEVERAL BROTHERS AND SISTERS BEFORE HIM." 
Traditions of Edinburgh. 



THE WEST PORT WAS THE MAIN THOROl'GHKAK 
THROUGH THE SUBURB OK WESTKR rORTSBURG] 
LYING OUTSIDE THE CITY WALL AND ADJOINING Tfl 
GATEWAY OF THE WEST PORT. IT WAS IN TANNER 
CLOSE, A NARROW FILTHY ALLEY HARD BY, THAT TH 
ATROCIOUS BURKE AND HARE MURDERS TOOK I'l A( 
IN 1827. 



XXIII. 

"THIS INARTIFICIAL EDIFICE, EXACTLY SUCH AS A 
CHILI) WOULD BUILD WITH CARDS " IS THE ORIGINAL 
" DUMBIEDIKES" MANSION HOUSE, THE RESIDENCE 
OF THE UNSUCCESSFUL SUITOR OF JEANIE DEANS 
HEROINE OF " THE HEART OF MIDLOTHIAN." IT IS 
SAID BY TRADITION TO BE CONNECTED BY AN UNDER- 
GROUND PASSAGE WITH CRAIGMILLAR CASTLE. 



XXIV. 

THE WEIGH HOUSE OR BUTTER TRON REBUILT IN 
|66O TO REPLACE THE ORIGINAL WEIGH HOUSE DE- 
STROYED BY CROMWELL, STOOD AT THE HEAD OF THE 
LAWNMARKET, WHERE IT WAS JOINED BY THE WEST 
BOW. STANDING IN THE MAIN ROAD UP TO THE CAS- 
TLE, IT WAS THE SCENE OF CIVIC DISPLAYS ON THE 
ENTRY OF QUEEN MARY INTO THE CITY, AND AGAIN 
CAME INTO CONSIDERABLE PROMINENCE DURING 
PRINCE CHARLIE'S BLOCKADE OF THE FORTRESS IN 
1745- 



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