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KASHMIR

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CALCUTTA.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS

KASHMIR

John Collett.

Enlarged, revised and corrected up to date

• BY

A. MITRA,

C/ije/ Medical Officer, Kashmir,
WITH A ROUTE MAP OF KASHMIR.

CALCUTTA :

W. NEWMAN & CO., 4, DALHOUSIE SQUARE.

i8g8.

PREFACE.

The increased facilities which have been provided
during the last few years for visiting the beautiful
Valley of Kashmir, and more particularly the opening
of the Jhelum Valley Cart Road, is inducing a much
larger number of persons than in former years to
spend their short leave in a visit to the lovely scenery
to be found in the Valley. This short Guide Book
is intended to aid visitors by a description of the
principal routes, and by giving other information
that may prove useful to them. The map which
accompanies the Guide shows the principal routes
which are practicable to the casual visitor. The
information has been brought down to the year 1897.

CONTENTS:

Page

Introduction ... ... ._ i

Chapter I —Hints to Travellers ... ... 8

Chapter II.— Routes ... ... .. ... 13

Do Jhelum Valley Road ... ... 14

Do. Ja.mmu Route ... .. 26

Do. The Abbottabad Route ... ... 28

Do. The Pir Panjal Route ... ... 30

Do. The Poonch Route ... ... 47

Chapter III.— The Vale of Kashmir ... ... 50

Do. Administration, History, Climate.

People, Language, Relkhon, Trade,

Arts, Manufactures, and Botany 54 to 80

Do. Sport in Kashmir ... ... 80

Do. Geology, Mineralogy and Archeology 85 ,, 92

Chapter IV. — Srinagar and its Surroundings ... 93

Do, Dal or City Lake ... ... 100

Chapter V.— The Eastern Portion of Kashmir (From

Srinagar up the River Jhelum) ... 115
Chapter VI.— Western Portion of the Valley (From

Srinagar down the River Jhelum) .„ 135
Chapter VII.— Routes in the Valley of Kashmir and
to Sporting Grounds and to Places

Beyond ... ... ... 154

Appendix I.— Coins, Weic.hts, and Measures ... 162
Do. II — List of Post and Telegraph Offices

in Kashmir and Jamwu ... ... 164

Do. Ill —Game Laws for Ladakh, Skardu, and

Baltistan .. ... ... 166

Do. IV. — Tax on Boats ... ... ... 167

CONTENTS— (^^«^/«</^i.)

Appendix V. — Rules for Traders .. ,.,

Do. VI. —Roles for Observance by Visitors
AND Residents

Game Laws of Jammu and Kashmir State ...

Rules for Rental of Huts at Gulmarg

Rates of Rent for Gulmarg Huts

Old Huts for Allotment

Takiff of Boat Hire in Kashmir

Tariff of Hire of Coolies, Ponies, etc.

Imperial Carrying Company (Rates and Rules for Tongas,
Bullock Carts, etc.)

Tolls on the Jhelom Valley Road

Civil Transport Corps

Rules for Rest Houses on the Gilgit Road

Page.
i68

169
177
179
181

183
184

.87

190
196

200
204

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS

KASHMIR.

INTRODUCTION.

THERE is, perhaps, no land under the sun which
has received such praise in prose or rhyme as
the valley of Kashmir. And, indeed, it is very beautiful —
" an emerald of verdure enclosed in a radiant amphi-
theatre of virgin snov^r." The valley, which is peopled
by a primitive type of the Aryan race, is intersected by
a beautiful meandering river, and is covered with
luxuriant fruit trees and fragrant flowers, with majestic
chinars and silvery poplars. Behind all stand the
majestic snow-clad mountains. Truly has the Persian
poet said —

" Do not call it Kashmir, it is a rival

Of the celestial fairy land.

It is a Paradise nn the face of the earth."

Vigne thus speaks of the scenery of Kashmir : —

"Softness mantling over the sublime — snugness,

generally elsewhere incompatible with extent — are the

prevailing characteristics ; and verdure and the forest

appear to have deserted the countries on the northward

2 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR

in order to embellish the slopes from its snowy moun-
tains, give additional richness to its plains, and com-
bine with its delightful climate to render it not unworthy
of the rhyming epithets applied to it in the East —

Kashmir — Be nazir — without an equal.

Kashmir — Junat nazir — equal to Paradise."
Located in the midst of rocks and mountains,
Kashmir is a fertile alluvial valley, which yields
produce beyond the dreams of the cultivator in the
sun-scorched plains of India. " You have but to
tickle the land with a hoe and it laughs with a harvest."
Streams of pure water gush from the rocky sides of
high mountains to enrich the soil and assuage the
thirst of man and beast. The deep waters of the lake
reflect the summits of snow-capped mountains. In
spring, the valley is covered with a mass of flowers ;
in autumn, the trees are painted with gorgeous tints ; and
in winter, a mantle of virgin snow lies over the land.
It was in this country that the ancient Aryans built
temples and monum.ents, the Buddhists reared their
majestic places of worship, and the great Moguls laid
out their pleasure gardens, and fountains, and grottos for
the almond-eyed beauties of the Imperial harem. The
ozone-laden mountain air and the temperate climate
form a delightful contrast to the heat of India and the
biting cold of Central Asia. Elphinstone says : —

" It is placed by its elevation above the reach of the
heat of Hindustan and sheltered by the surrounding
mountains from the blasts of the higher regions ; it
enjoys a delicious climate, and exhibits in the midst of
snowy summits a scene of continual verdure, and
almost of perpetual spring,"

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 3

To an invalid Kashmir is health-giving ; to an
archaeologist it affords ample material for research ;
to an artist it presents Nature's loveliest and most sub-
lime sceneries ; to a geologist many abstruse and still
undiscovered problems of strata and foliation ; to a
botanist a large field of still unclassified flora ; to an
ethnologist and philologist a puzzling inhabitant and
language ; and last, but not least, to the sportsman one
of the best hunting grounds for large game in the whole
world.

The number of visitors to the beautiful vale of
Kashmir will certainly increase year by year, now that
the valley is connected with the Punjab by a good
cart-road, cut along the mountain side. The road has
already given a great impetus to the trade of Kashmir,
and ought to gradually develop all the resources of the
valley.

It is supposed that the first European who penetrat-
ed into the valley of Kashmir was Xavier, a Jesuit,
who visited it in the time of the great Akbar. In the
year 1665, Bernier, a French physician, accompanied
the Mogul Emperor Aurangzebe to the valley. The third
European, another Jesuit, Father Desideri, passed a
winter in Kashmir in 17 14. George Forster travelled
through Kashmir in 1783, when the valley was reft
from the Crown of Delhi by the Afghans. Forty years
after, when Kashmir was under the rule of Ranjit
Singh, the Lion of the Punjab, it was visited by
Moorcroft. In these days, when a traveller can drive
from Rawalpindi to Baramulla through the valley of the
Jhelum river in two days, it is not easy to realize that
Moorcroft could not travel over this road for fear

4 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

of his life. Victor Jacquemont followed in 1831 by
the permission of Ranjit Singh. Next came Wolff, a
missionary, in 1832. Baron Hugel, Vigne, and Hen-
derson met in Srinagar in 1835, and recorded their meet-
ing on a black marble slab. This interesting relic,
however, has recently disappeared, probably stolen
by some unromantic peasant to do duty for a curry-
stone. The inscription ran : —

Three Travellers :
Baron Carl Von Hugel, from Jamu,
John Henderson, from Ladak,
Godfrey Thomas Vigne, from Iskardo,
Who met in Srinagar on the i8th November, 1835,
have caused the names of those European travellers
who had previously visited the vale of Kashmir to be
hereunder engraved :

Bernier ... ... ... 1663

Forster ... ... ... 1786

Moorcroft, Trebeck, and Guthrie ... 1823
Jacquemont . ... ... 1831

Wolff ... ... ■ ... 1832

The valley has now, however, as previously stated,
been connected with the plains of India by a cart-road,
and is annually visited by a large number oi strangers
from all parts of the world. A Royal Prince, the Duke
of Connaught, two Viceroys. Lords Ripon and Lans-
downe, and two Commanders-in-Chief, Sir Donald
Stewart and Lord Roberts, are among those who have
been attracted to Kashmir. Easier access with India
and contact with foreign peoples and things are rapid-
ly altering the primitive simplicity of the inhabitants
and the Government, but the majestic mountains, the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 5

icy springs, the murmuring brooks, and the picturesque
landscape will for ever retain their grandeur and beauty
in spite of civilization and its influences. A day may
come when the iron horse will penetrate into the
valley; when Srinagar, the capital, will be a fashion-
able station with luxurious hotels and all the comforts
of civilised life ; when steam power will revolutionize
the industries and develop the resources of the country ;
when in place of mat-covered boats, comfortable barges
and house-boats will float upon its lakes and river.
But the tourist in Kashmir will always turn his gaze
from the works of m^n to the glorious beauties of Na-
ture, and will look up witli awe to the majestic Nunga
Parbat and the hoary-headed Harmukh. The sylvan
charm of Lolab, the flowery spring and the autumnal
foliage of Lidar, the rivulets of Achhobat and Vernag,
the Woolar with its reflections of snow-capped moun-
tains, and the Jhelum winding its course through fertile
fields and banks lined with the stately chinar, with the
panorama of Pir Panjal as a background, can never
lack admirers

Thomas Moore sings in his immorfal " Lalla
Rookh "—

■^ "The vale of Kashmir,

With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave.
Its temples and grottos, and fountains as clear
As the love-lighted eyes that hang over their wave."

Bernier, the French physician, who visited the valley
in 1664 with Aurangzebe, has left a most interesting
account of Kashmir. Archibald Constable publishes an
English edition of his travels. Before Bernier, Xavier
gave to the world his impressions of Kashmir in a work

b A GUIDE FOR VISITROS TO KASHMIR.

entitled " Hajus de Rebus Japonicis, Indicis, etc."
(Antwerp, 1605). Forster's letters giving the nar-
rative of a journey from Bengal to St. Petersburg were
published in 1783. Other old books on travels in
Kashmir are — " Researches and Missionary Labours''
by the Rev. Jos. Wolff, " Correspondence of Victor
Jacquemont," Moorcroft's " Travel,'' Vigne's " Tra-
vels in Kashmir, etc.," and Baron Hugel's " Travels
in Kashmir and the Punjab."

Of later publications the following may be mentioned.
Knight's " Diary," Drew's " Kashmir and Jammu
Territories," Bellew's " Kashmir and Yarkand,"
Wakefield's " Happy Valley," Wilson's "The above
of snow,'' Colonel Torren's " Travels," Sir Richard
Temple's " Travels in Kashmir, Hyderabad, and Sik-
kim." " The Valley of Kashmir " by W. R. Lawrence,
C.S., CLE., is a complete gazetteer of Kashmir,
and gives valuable and authentic information about the
country and its people. Besides containing accurate
details regarding the Kashmiris, their habits and cus-
toms, religion and language, and occupation and in-
dustries, it gives information about the history, geo-
logy, botany, zoology, mineralogy and archaeology of the
country. Kashmir possesses a history written ^y its own
historians known as " Raj Tarongini." It is now being
published by Dr. Stein, the gifted Principal of the
Lahore Oriental College, and has been partly transla-
ted by Fryer, Wilson, and Dutt. There are besides
many valuable works on Kashmir history in Sanskrit
and Persian, such as " Gu'zari Kashmir" by Diwan
Kripa Ram, " Tarikha Kashmir " by Narayan Koul,
and " Tawarikh Kashmir'' by Pandit Birbal Kachru

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 7

In the " Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal," Newel
published a sketch of the Muhammadan history of
Kashmir. Drew gives a full account of the geography of
the countries around Kashmir, wliile on geology, Drew,
Blanford, Lydeker, and Oldham are authorities. Law-
rence's information on the flora and fauna is accurate.
Royle's " Himalayan Botany " may also be consulted by
the botanical student, and Adam's " Wanderings of a
Naturalist in Kashmir," Ward's " Sportsman's guide,"
and Kinloch's " Large Game Shooting in Tibet and
the North-West " will be found useful by sportsmen.
To the student of archaeology, Cunningham's papers in
the "Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society," and in the
'' Archaeological Survey Transactions," and Cole's 'Illus-
trations" will give valuable information, Elmslie's
" Dictionary, " Wade's "Grammar," Knowles' " Kashmir
Proverbs and Kashmir Folk Stories " are useful books.
Tourists are recommended Ince's " Kashmir Hand-
book," revised by Duke, Collet's " Guide for Visitors,"
first published in 1884, Neve's "Tourist's Guide to
Kashmir, Ladakh, Skardu, etc.," and "Cashmere en
Famille. "

CHAPTER I.

HINTS TO TRAVELLERS.

THE majority of visitors to Kashmir will naturally
select the easiest route, which runs up the Jhelum
valley. On arrival at Rawalpindi, the large military
cantonment on the North-Western Railway, the traveller
will find accommodation either in the dak bungalow or
in one of the many hotels. Here Messrs. Dhanjibhoy
and Son, whose office is close to the dak bungalow,
should be communicated with. This company will
furnish every information regarding the condition of
the road, make arrangements about the journey, and
furnish tongas and ekkas. Visitors will find dak bunga-
lows all along the road, but it often happens that
tired arrivals find all the rooms fully occupied. When-
ever, therefore, there is a rush, it is advisable for those
who are travelling with their families to take tents.
These moreover are indispensable when the valley is
reached. - Besides the usual baggage, several kiltas—
long-barrelled baskets covered with leather— will be
found useful for stores and cooking utensils.* Sports-
men who have to carry their camps through jungles
and over bad mountain paths will find Ailtas, which are
easily strapped on to the shoulders of coolies, leaving
their arms free, absolutely necessary. Tents and camp
furniture can be hired at Srinagar. Travellers on their
arrival in Kashmir have to make their own arrange-
ments for cooking, etc. Khansamahs are to be found at

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIU. 9

Srinagar, and can be temporarily engaged. But those
travelling with their families would do better to bring
with them a good khansaniah and a sweeper. The
latter class of servants are not easily available in
Kashmir.

During the winter months tongas cannot run through
to Kashmir, and in the early spring, when there is a
good deal of rain, there are usually many slips on the
Jhelum valley road, and the journey is not only likely
to be interrupted, but is often dangerous. The Kashmir
season, therefore, generally commences in the begin-
ning of May and closes by the end of October. In
Kashmir, the autumn is most lovely. On arrival in
Kashmir the traveller, who has noc brought his servants
with him, will require a khansamah and a bhistie, who.
besides supplying the camp with water, shoukl assist
in pitching tents and packing and unpacking tiie bag-
gage ; another servant will be wanted to assist the
khansamah. All should be obliged to do any necessary
work which falls outside the usual routine of their
duties. If a boat is hired, the boatman is a very useful
general servant. When ladies and children are of the
party, an ayah and a sweeper will be wanted. The
climate of Kashmir, though always bracing, is very
variable. NVaterproof coats, a mosquito curtain in
summer, and waterproof coverings for the bedding are
essentials. A suit oi piittoo — a rough serge manufactured
in the country — may be had at Srinagar for about
Rs. 8, and though the style and fit would scarcely suit
Bond Street, it makes a capital and comfortable wear
for mountain travel. Visitors should not forget their
dress suits, for Srinagar is not altogether uncivilised.

lO A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Every season there are a large number of Euro-
peans at the capital. On the Queen's Birthday a State
dinner is held, to which visitors are invited. Military
officers attending are obliged to wear mess uniform.

On arrival at Srinagar, the Maharajah's Native Agent,
Babu Amar Nath Rai Sahib, is the first person to be
communicated with. He speaks English fluently, and
is a very obliging and civil officer. He will afford help
of every kind and give any information in his power.
He makes the arrangements for the hire of boatmen,
coolies, servants, etc., and settles all disputes that may /
arise with regard to fares and the prices of purchases.
House accommodation is very limited in Kashmir ; many
of the old bungalows that were formerly available for
visitors are now occupied by the State officials. There
are no dak bungalows or hotels. Travellers must, there-
fore, be prepared to live in boats or tents. House-boats
are very comfortable to live in, but their number is
limited, and unless previous arrangements have been
made for the hire through an agent or a friend, it is
difficult to get one. The rent varies between Rs. 30
and Rs. 50 a month. Bachelors can only pitch their
tents in the Chinar Bagh, the other camping ground,
the Hari Singh Bagh, now being built over. The
Chinar Bagh is, however, large enough to accommodate
all the visitors ever likely to require it. The Munshi
Bagh is set apart for the tents of married visitors. It
contains a row of pucca houses, but these are all occu-
pied by permanent residents. Further up the river is
Ram Munshi Bagh, an excellent camping ground.

The Resident lives in Srinagar during the summer
at the Residency — a fine house with a large garden by

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. II

the river side. It is customary to call on him and sign
one's name in the Visitors' Book. A similar respect
should also be shown to the Maharajah by entering
one's name in the book kept for the purpose at the
Palace Gate. The Maharajah and Resident leave Sri-
nasrar in the winter, but the Assistant Resident is at
the capital when the Resident is away.

When out of Srinagar, the traveller should always
take his servants with him. One of them should be
allowed to have control over the others in all details ;
he will like to use the authority given him, and the
others will obey him readily. The traveller will thus
be relieved of a good deal of trouble. It is a good plan
to make sure before every march that the proper num-
ber of coolies and ponies are present. The Kashmiris
are willing workers, but they are ignorant of the ways
of Europeans, and should be treated vith patience and
consideration. A traveller should avoid giving too much
attention to details and little matters, and confine him-
self to stating his orders clearly and sticking to them.
Attention to this will avert much unpleasantness and
add materially to the enjoyment of a trip. On arriving
at the end of a march, arrangements should be made
with the Tahsildav or Naib Tahsildar at the nearest vil-
lat^e for the hire of coolies and ponies for the next
march. As long a notice as possible is needful, as the
men and animals are often taken from the fields, some-
times some miles distant. For supplies during the
journey, eggs, milk, butter, and fowls can always be
had at a reasonable price. Those who penetrate out of
the beaten tracks for shikar purposes, should provide
themselves with all necessaries from Srinagar, where

12 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

all kinds of European stores of excellent quality are
obtainable. The traveller should personally pay the
coolies at the end of each day's march, and a good sup-
ply of two anna, four anna, and eight anna pieces
should be kept, so that each man can be paid separate-
ly. If a rupee is to be divided amongst three or four,
there is frequently a quarrel. Indian coin is accepted
eagerly everywhere in Kashmir. In Srinagar currency
notes and cheques are easily negotiable. The Punjab
Banking Corporation has a branch in Srinagar, where
every kind of banking business is transacted. At Sri-
nagar supplies are fairly good. Imported articles, such
as kerosine oil and sugar, are expensive, but all indi
genous articles are cheap. Pure milk can be obtained
everywhere. The water-supply of Srinagar is now
abundant and good. Fish can be had in abundance.
It may be noted here that the roe of Kashmir fish
should on no account be eaten, as the result is fearful
gastric irritation. Bread can be had at Srinagar. A
basket of excellent vegetable can be obtained from the
Library garden for the modest sum of four annas.

For the return journey from Srinagar, tongas should
be booked beforehand either at Dhanjibhoy's Srinagar
office, or by telegraph to the Agent at Baramulla.

In the appendix will be found the rules, sanctioned
by the Government of the Maharajah, for the guidance
of European visitors, civil and military, and full in-
formation regarding the hire of coolies, ponies, etc.

'd t '^

CHAPTER II.

ROUTES.

THERE are several routes into the Happy Valley,
but the easiest, and therefore the most frequented
one is from Rawalpindi, via Murree. The traveller takes a
tonga at Rav/alpindi, and drives all the way to Srinagar.
The cart-road is open to every kind of wheeled traffic,
and throughout the route accommodation and supplies
are available. Those who prefer a less frequented
route should leave the railway at Gujrat, 71 miles
from Lahore, and pi'oceed by tonga to Bhimber, 28
miles from Gujrat, the border village of Kashmir terri-
tory, and at the foot of the lower range of mountains,
and thence march the 167 miles to Srinagar over the
Pir Panjal pass, which lies at an elevation of 1 1,500
feet above sea level The distance is covered in
twelve marches, but the paths are difficult and require
much climbing. This is the historical route which was
used by the Mogul Emperors in their summer visits to
the valley. In point of grandeur and magnificence, the
scenery on the road cannot be surpassed. The other
alternative route is vid]a.mm\i, and begins at the railway
terminus Tawi, at the foot of Jammu hill, and crossing
the Banhal pass (9,200 feet high), enters the valley at
Vernag. This route is, however, reserved for His High-
ness the Maharajah, and Europeans are not allowed to
travel by it without special permission. The road is
difficult, and supplies are not always availa.ble. The other

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

routes into the valley are (i) through Poonch to Bara-
mulla, and (2) the Abbottabad route, which joins the
Jhelum valley road at Domel. The former road turns
off" from Thanna Mundi, the sixth march on the Pir Pan-
jal route, thus avoiding the ascent over the pass. The
route by Abbottabad joins the Jhelum valley load at
Domel. In the winter, when the snow lies heavy over
the Murree hills, this latter road is a convenient one.
There are several other less known routes, but they are
very seldom used. All the routes, except that up the
Jhelum valley, are difficult and full of obstructions,
such as boulders, masses of rock, and unbridged or
badly bridged streams. A few rest-houses are located
along the Jammu road, but they are in a very dilapida-
ted condition. Supplies are obtainable only with the
very greatest difficulty.

Jhelum Valley Road.

The railway journey ends at Rawalpindi, the great
military station.

Station.

Calcutta to Rawalpindi
Delhi do.

Lahore do.

Bombay do.

Disiance.

1,437 miles.

483 ..

173 ..
1.412 ,,

1st Class
Ky. Fare.

Rs. As. P.

Time.

120

o I 54 hours.

32 10 o
1013 o

88 4 o I 67

22
10

At Rawalpindi maybe found a dak bungalow and sever-
al good hotels. All necessaries for a journey of several
months are obtainable here. On arrival, arrangements
must be made for a seat in the mail tonga, or for a
special toriga which carries three passengers besides a
fairly large quantity of personal baggage. Ehkas are

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

available for servants and heavy baggage. The mail
tonga covers the journey to Baramulla in two days. It
Starts from Rawalpindi early in the morning, and arrives
in the evening at Garhi, where it halts for the night ; and
then starting at daybreak, reaches Baramulla at 3 p.m.
In the summer, when the days are long, if there is no
interruption on the road, a tonga will probably accom-
plish the journey as follows : —
ist day. —

Rawalpindi, leave at 5 a.m.

Murree, reach at 10 a.m., breakfast at Sunnybank
hotel, start at i i.a.m.

Kohala, reach at 3-30 p.m.

Domel, reach at 6-30 p.m., halt for the night.
2nd day. —

Domel, leave at 5 a.m.

Uri, reach at 10-30 a m.

Baramulla, reach at 3-30 p.m.
The road between Rawalpindi and Srinagar is 195^
miles long, and is divided into the following fourteen
stages : —

Xi _;

rt <u

Name.

- I

Remaiks.

Si ii

.£?«

<u u

• At

?:.

Feet.

Miles.

R.-iwalpindi to -

Barak 0

1,720

i3'4

Dak Bungalow.

Tret

4,oco

Ditto.

Murree (Sunny-

bank)

6,050

Hotels Murree. 7.507 feet
above sea level and 38^
miles from Rawalpindi.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

^^^^

XI -:

•
- W

Name.

1)
0

Remarks

J3'

JH J^

; S.

.iPcS

' a

(L) D

Feet.

Miles.

Kohala

2,ooo

27^2

Dak Bungalow, Telegraph
Office.

Dulai

2,l8l

Dak Bungalow.

Doinel

2,319

Dak Bungalow, Post and
Telegraph Office, Dispen-
sary.

Garhi

2.750

Dak Bungalow, Post and
Telegraph Office.

Haitian

3,080

Rest-house, Post Office.

Chakoli

3,7So

Dak Bungalow, Post and
Telegraph Office

Uri

4,425

13''?

Dak Bungalow. Post and
Telegraph Office.

Rampor

4,825

•3

Dak Bungalow, Post and
Telegraph Office.

Baramulla

5.150

Dak Bun-jalow, Post and
Telegraph Office, Dispen-
sary.

Pattan

5.300

Srinagar

5,204

On leaving Rawalpindi, the tonga drives over a good
level road, lined with sheesham trees. At the 13th
mile a hill stream is crossed, and half a mile further
on is the Barako dak bungalow. Shortly after leaving
Barako the road enters low hills and gradually ascends,
though the real climb does not begin till the 23rd mile
is reached. On the riglit side of the road lies the Tret
dak bungalow. Beyond Tret the road rises rapidly to
Murree and passes the Murree brewery at the 32^ mile.
Above the brewery is the combined post and telegraph
office of Goragalli. The tonga then runs up to the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 17

Murree hills, and reaches the Commissariat godowns,
where the road divides into two. The lower fork winds
round the east face of the Murree hills and leads
direct to Kohala and Kashmir. Sunnybank hotel is
conveniently situated for travellers. From Murree to
Kohala, 27^ miles, the road gradually descends. It is a
long and somewhat tedious journey. On the opposite
side of the valley are the territories of the Rajah of
Poonch, the hill sides being dotted with the fertile
fields of prosperous villagers. There is no dak bunga-
low between Murree and Kohala — a want which is
often felt by travellers. Kohala is very hot in the
summer. Crossing the bridge at Kohala, the traveller
enters into the territory of the Maharajah of Kashmir.
During the summer months the heat is intense on the
road between Kohala and Chakoti, and it is advisable
to travel across this in the early morning. A new
bridge has recently been constructed, the old suspen-
sion bridge having been swept away by the floods of
1893. The Jhelum valley road is a triumph of
modern engineering. It is cut into the sides of the
mountains and follows the course of the Jhelum as
closely as possible The work was begun in 1880 and
completed ten years after. The former road was barely
more than a path, and was rough and steep, being in
no wise practicable for wheeled traffic. After crossing
the suspension bridge, the road passes Barsala and
Chatar, and descends to the Agar Nadi. Below the
1 2th mile-stone from Kohala is the charming dak
bungalow of Dulai. Between Dulai and Dome), on
the right bank of the river, a rapid mountain stream,
known as the Nainsook, meets the Jhelum at the i6th

l8 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

mile from Kohala. Above the Nainsook both banks of
the river Jhelum are in the Maharajah's territory.
Nine and a half miles from Dulai is Domel — the junction
of the " two waters "—where the Kishnagunga runs
into the Jhelum Here ihere used to be an excellent dak
bungalow, extensive workshops, and a good bridge
over the Jhelum, but the great flood of 1893 swept
them all away. Across the river, i^ miles from Domel,
is the town of Muzaffarabad, which is the head-
quarters of the district of Muzaffarabad. This district
includes all the hilly tracts between Baramulla and
Kohala. Half a mile from Domel the Kishnagunga is
crossed by a bridge, which leads to the Abbottabad
road, via Garbi Habibullah.

From Domel the road turns off at an acute angle
south-east and east. The bungalow at Garhi is
charmingly situated. From here it is possible to see
the jkda or rope-bridge over the Jhelum. From
Garhi to Hattian the distance is 10 miles. The scenery
is varied. After passing the Garhi bungalow, some
plane trees (chinars) are to be met with, but these
are not so large and beautiful as those to be found
in the valley of Kashmir. The climate of India
has now at last been parted with, and the more
bracing breezes from the beautiful mountains of
Kashmir refresh and invigorate the traveller. There
is a rest-house at Hattian, but no khansamah. Between
Hattian and Chakoti stands a noble chinar tree, near
which is a mountain stream of pure water. Across
the river will be seen a mud fort, near which a Sikh
army was once totally annihilated by the Paharis.
From Chakoti to Uri the road rises considerably. The

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 19

hill sides being formed of loose stones and earth,
dangerous landslips frequently occur, blocking the road
and interrupting traffic. The Jhelum flows at the
bottom of the valley, noisy and turbulent, racing over
big boulders and deep pools. The scenery is bold and
purely mountainous. Here and there table-lands may
be seen, on which are a few huts, hardly numerous
enough to form a village. One pities the lonely life of
the inhabitants on these heights, almost entirely cut
off from the rest of the world, many of the table-lands
being on the opposite side of the river. Between
Chakoti and Uri is Opi nullah, over which a new bridge
is under construction. Not far from Chakoti are the
ruins of a Muhammadan mosque of handsomely
carved deodar. It is a fair specimen of the carving to
be seen on many mosques in Kashmir. The building
was probably erected on this spot in commemoration
of some famous pir or saint who died and was buried
there. Such ziarats or burying places of saints are lo
be found all over Kashmir. Quiet, shady retreats, com-
manding lovely views, are to this day selected by many
Muhammadans who aspire to he pivs. They live a life
of solitary meditation, and are supported by the contribu-
tions of the faithful. They exercise a restraining in-
fluence upon the villagers, and some of them are treated
with the greatest respect. In the distance is the fort of
Uri, which was intended to command the road from
Chakoti, and also one on the other side of Uri leading to
Poonch. There is a capital little dak bungalow at
Uri. The Jhelum runs very deep here, and a rope-
bridge over it of strange construction will please the
curious. It is used by the people who have patches of

20 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

cultivation on the small table-lands, on the lower range of
mountains, the approach to whose fields are often pre-
cipitous and always difficult. These spots may be seen
on the left hand side of the road not far from Uri. The
life of one person a year on an average is, say the people,
sacrificed in crossing the rope bridge. To watch folk
crossing, the surprise is that anyone is able to get safely
across. The bridge is merely a rope-ladder thrown
horizontally across the river, and one can well imagine
the difficulty and danger of stepping across the gaps.

Leaving the bungalow at Uri, the road makes a long
detour to reach the opposite side of the Namlah nullah.
On this part of the road there is a long and very lofty
range of mountains of slaty formation and nearly per-
pendicular sides. Trees grow solitary or in clumps here
and there, and above and below there is a fine deodar
forest. The bungalow at Rampor is prettily situated,
and commands a fine view of the lofty mountains oppo-
site. Leaving Rampor, the traveller passes a place called
Bunyar, where there is a workshop and a dispensary.
About a mile from Bunyar is an old temple, which must
at one time have been an imposing building, judging by
the great arched entrance and central court-yard.
Hindus make pilgrimages to this sacred spot from
Srinagar and even more distant places. The road then
passes the village of Naoshera, from where there is a
rough and difficult path to Gulmarg. Passing Naoshera,
the road runs through a level plain called Kachema or
Little Kashmir, and then, following the course of the
Jhelum, reaches the valley of Kashmir at Baramulla.
Before the tonga road was made, the traveller had to
take a straight road over the pass of Baramulla, from

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 21

the top of which a beautiful view of the valley could
be obtained.

Baramulla is a large town on the right bank of the
river, which is crossed by a wooden bridge, similar to
that at Srinagar and other places in the valley. There
is a dak bungalow at Baramulla, and boats are, as a
rule, to be found waiting here for hire. The tonga road
from Baramulla to Srinagar is now complete, but
many travellers will prefer to change the jolting of
the hill carriage for the more gentle and agreeable
motion of a boat. The new road is nearly 33 miles
long from the Agency road, Baramulla, to the Dudh-
ganga bridge, Srinagar. The alignment is partly on
the old foot-path, but for the most part it winds round
the toes of the lower Kharewas, or takes a straight line
across the many jheels which are met with on the line.
Three and a half miles from Baramulla is the village of
Kanaspura, and about a mile further on is the village of
Dilna, where Dhanjibhoy & Co. have built stables on
the left hand side of the road. Passing Sangrawan and
Phutka, Choorah, eight miles from Baramulla, is reached.
Here the Ningal river is spanned by three brick arches,
and the two next bridges of importance cross the Choorah
and Bulgam streams. After Bulgam (10 miles) the road
takes a turn to the right through Rhinji, Tarpur, Khama-
yar, and Phalalan, till Pattan is reached. This is the
half-way stage between Baramulla and Srinagar, and
here may be seen two excellent types of ancient Hindu
temples in a very fair state of preservation. Passing
the 1 6th mile at Pattan, the road takes a sharp turn to
the left and crosses the Hanjvera jheel and bridge.
About two miles further on is the village of Singhpura,

22 A GUID^ FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

and beyond that the bridge at Haratrat. The road
now turns to the right again, and Meerghund, about
24 miles from Baramulla, is reached. Here there is a
small rest-house. Sportsmen will find some excellent
snipe and duck shooting on the extensive y/i^^/. A couple
of miles further on is Lawapura, from where the old
road branches off to Gulmarg. The only other place
of interest before Srinagar is reached is Chak, where the
post horses are changed for the final stage. Passing
Shalteng and Zankoot, where there is also some capital
duck shooting, the Srinagar race course comes in
view, 32 miles from Baramulla, and then Dudhganga
bridge and poplar avenue leading to the new Amira
Kadal. The rows of poplar trees are quite a feature of
the road. The trees also serve the useful purpose
of affording protection where the bank is steep and
dangerous to tongas and carriages. The road was
made by Mr. AUanson Winn, of Messrs. Spedding
and Co.

The boats usually available at Baramulla are called
doongas. They have bare floors, and the sides and
roof are of matting. The stern is occupied by the boat-
man and his family. The smoke and strong odour
from the kitchen is often unpleasant, and it is advisable
to engage two doongas, one for the servants and kitchen
and the other for the traveller's own use. As a rule no
furniture is available, though some boatmen can pro-
vide a table and chair. Occasionally house-boats,
sometimes furnished, can be arranged for.

The passage up the river is very beautiful ; the
scenery a few miles from Baramulla is specially
charming. The hills rise gradually almost from the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 2^

river banks ; they are covered with verdure, and
undulate for long distances, rising and falling in
graceful irregularity.

The first day's progress up the river will probably
terminate at Sopur, where there is a rest-house, of the
barrack form, but in fair condition. About half-way
between BaramuUa and Sopur is a village called Dub-
gao, situated at the junction of the river Pohra with the
Jhelum. There is a large quantity of timber here,
which is brought down the Pohra during the floods
in May and June and the rains in July and August ;
after these months the water falls so low that naviga-
tion is impracticable. This timber is used in boat-
building and for other purposes. There is a very
beautiful grove of plane trees (chinars) here, there are
a greater number of these trees together than is usual,
and they are unusually large. A route to Lolab is up
the river Pohra. A few hours after leaving Dubgao,
Sopur is reached. Sopur is a corruption of Suryapur,
called after Surya, an engineer of old, who built many
dams, canals and villages in Kashmir. .A.s the boat
slowly approaches the stream becomes wider, and near-
ing the town a Hindu temple is seen. Sopur is a place
much frequented by visitors to Kashmir, for it is close
to the Wular lake ; there is capital mahseer fishing
there, and it is the starting point for the two marches
thence to Gulmarg; the distance is lyl^j miles, and as
the road is good, the two marches may be easily taken
in one day. The view from the bridge at Sopur, look-
ing down the river and towards the Wular lake, is very
pretty indeed. The Wular lake must be left to the
end of the summer season, before it can be visited in

24 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

the flat-bottomed Kashmir boats. Fuller notice of
this lake will be afterwards taken : at present it is
sufficient to mention that this lake, like all lakes
surrounded by mountains, is liable to the action of furious
hurricanes, which makes its surface like a small sea,
and renders crossing it very dangerous ; at the close of
the year these hurricanes rarely occur. Instead, there-
fore, of crossing the Wular lake, the boats are taken up
the Naru canal, which skirts the south side, and enters
the Jhelum at Shadipore ; the time occupied is eight
hours, as the boat has to be punted in deep water the
whole way. The canal is partly filled with the singava
plant (Trapa Bispinosa), which produces a nutritious
nut in the autumn, when the boats go out and drag
up the nuts from the bottom, in from six to ten feet
of water. These plants may be seen covering an im-
mense expanse of water.

At Shadipore is the junction of the river Sind with the
Jhelum. At this point there is a fine plane tree in the
stream, the roots of which are protected by a casing of
stone. Under this tree there is a lingatn, an object of
worship to the Hindus. They have given the name
Shadipore, " the place of marriage," to the confluence
of the two rivers. Another version is that Shadipore
is a corruption of Sharadapur, called after the goddess
Sharada. Near Shadipore there is a bridge over the
Naru canal. The road over this bridge connects
Srinagar with Sumbal.

As the boat is slowly pulled along, after leaving
Shadipore, the traveller will notice that the river widens
greatly. Between Shadipore and Srinagar there are
only a few small villages called Sonar Boni (goldsmith's

A GUIDE 1-OR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 25

chenars) and Shalteng, beyond which lies the Purana
Chowni or Kripa Ram's Chowni.

The approach to Srinagar is by no means imposing.
The wretched buildings, which the inhabitants occupy,
and which meet the eye before the city is entered,
indicate too faithfully the condition of the greater
number of houses in the Kashmir capital. The river
narrows as the first bridge is approached. The double
row of tall straight poplars half a mile long, seen close
by, has long been a feature of Srinagar. The effect of
this avenue is in nowise marred by the other rows of
the same trees in the immediate neighbourhood and along
the banks of the river. After passing under the first
of the seven bridges which cross the Jhelum within
Srinagar, the city is entered, and the shops of the
principal shawl merchants may be noticed on either
side, their names in English letters ou the sign-boards
clearly indicating that English visitors are their best
customers. It will be necessary to more minutely
describe Srinagar afterwards ; at present the traveller
is looking for a spot whereon to pitch his tent for a
time, as already stated, house accommodation is very
limited. Visitors who have house-boats can moor
them above the first bridge or Amira Kadal, anywhere
between Lalmandi and Ram Munshi Bagh. The
Chinar Bagh, Munshi Bagh, and Ram Munshi Bagh
are suitable camping grounds. The Chinar Bagh is the
most favoured of the three. As the name indicates, it
contains m.any of these beautiful trees, but being on
rather low ground on the bank of the canal, which
connects the Dal lake with the Jhelum, it is occasion-
ally covered with water during the rains or floods.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Consequently the ground is nearly always damp, and
a rise in the river may render a sudden departure im-
perative. The Munshi Bagh is set apart for married
visitors, all bachelors being warned off. It is an excel-
lent camping ground. Further up the river the Ram
Munshi Bagh affords good ground for pitching tents.

Jammu Route.

The railway terminus for this route is Tawi, a
station on the Wazirabad-Sialkote branch of the North-
western Railway. Beyond the river Tawi, which is
crossed by a bridge, lies Jammu, built on a plateau.
There is a State dak bungalow here. From Jammu
the stages are as follow : —

Height

No.

Names of stages.

above

sea level

in feet.

Distance
in miles.

Remarks.

Jammu to —

Nagrota

1,200

^'A

Dansal

1,840

Udhampore

2,500

Dhrumlal

4,800

Katoti

7.500

I3J4

Ramban

2.535

Ramsu

4,070

Deogal

5,580

Vernag

Banhal pass 9,200
feet. .State Tele-
graph Office

Islamabad

5.350

Post Office and State
Telegraph Office.

Avantipore

.••

Srinagar

5.20;

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 27

The road is difficult and trouble may be experienced
in getting supplies, unless they have been previously
arranged for by order of the Darbar. There is an
unfurnished rest-house at each stage, but no khansamah.
Travellers must take their own servants and carry camp
furniture. The march from Jammu to Nagrota is short
and lies over boulders and long stretches of sand.
Between Nagrota and Dansal the road passes through
pretty scenery, partly along the side of a steep hill and
partly parallel to a stream with deep pools. Udhampore
is a large town and the head-quarters of a district in
the province of Jammu.. From Udhampore to Dhrumtal
the road is nearly level, and the whole march lies along
the side of a deep gorge. The view on the road is mag-
nificent. From Dhrumtal the road passes by Chinani.
The Hindus believe that their goddess Parvati was born
at this pretty village. Passing Chinani, the Batoti pass,
7,500 feet high, has to be crossed. A beautiful meadow
lies on the top, and a perfect view of the majestic
mountains around is obtained. A new bridge spans
the Chenab river, the ruins of the old one being seen
near by. The bungalow at Ramban is prettily situated.
The march from Ramban to Ramsu is long and
tiring, over a wretched road. At the 12th mile lies
Deogal, and then the Banhal pass, 9,200 feet high, has
to be negotiated. From here to the valley of Kashmir
the road, recently constructed, is excellent. About i »4
miles from the foot of the Banhal pass is the delightful
spring of Vernag. It was here that the Emperor Jehan-
gir wished to be carried in his dying hours. The march
from Vernag to Islamabad is on a level road and calls
for no remark.

28 a guide for visitors to kashmir.

The Abbottabad Route.

This route may be used when the snow lies heavy on
the Murree hills and blocks the road. Abbottabad lies
42 miles from Hassan Abdul, a station on the North-
western Railway, 29 miles from Rawalpindi, and is
reached in five hours by tonga. It is the head-quarters
of the Hazara district, which comprises a part of the
mountain valleys drained by the Doab and Hurroo
rivers. The hill-sides are covered with timber. The
town is named after Major James Abbott, first Deputy
Commissioner of Hazara, from 1847 to 1853. From
Abbottabad to Mansera the distance is 16 miles The
road is good, but several deep nullahs have to be crossed.
There is a good bungalow at Mansera. From here to
Garhi Habibullah is 17J4 miles. There is a shorter
but more difficult path from Mangli nullah, on the
eighth mile from Mansera, to Garhi Habibullah, where
there is a rest-house. An ekka can travel as far as this.
From Garhi Habibullah to Muzaffarabad is 12 miles
over a rough and steep road. A difficult path leads to
the top of a pass, 3,000 feet high, and then by a sharp
descent the Maharajah's territory is reached. The
Kishnagunga river is crossed by a bridge near Domel,
and after the Jhelum has been passed the journey will
be continued along the Jhelum valley road.

When the Afghans held Kashmir, the road from
Kabul to the valley lay through the Khyber pass,
and then vid Peshawar and Hassan Abdul to Muzaff-
arabad, whence it ran along the right bank of the
Jhelum through Katar to Baramulla. The traveller can
see this old road from his tonga on the left bank of
the Jhelum. Baron Hugel travelled out in the Kashmir

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

by it, and there are engineers who are incHned to
think that the Jhelum valley cart-road should have
followed the same bank of the river. Landslips are
too frequent on the other side.

The stages of the entire route from Hassan Abdul to
Muzaffarabad, and thence along the right bank of the
Jhelum, are as follows : —

No.

Names of stages.

Kemarks.

Hassan Abdul to—

Haripur ...

Abbotlabad
Mansera ...

Garhi Habibullah
Muznffarabad

6 Hatiian

Handa

Katar

Shahdera

Gingh

Baramulla

17'/?
12

•7

12
12

By ion^a to .Abhottahad in five
hours.

Dak Bungalow.

Dak Bungalow Pay as two
marches.

Rest-house Pay as 1^ matches.

Joins Jhelum valley road at
Domel.

No Bungalow, and supplies not
available. Koad very bad.

30 a guide for visitors to kashmir.

The Pir Panjal Route.
To Srinagar by Gtijrat and Bhimbev over the Fir Panjal Pass.

The route to the vale of Kashmir over the Fir Pan-
jal is often preferred to that via Murree by those who
do not mind roughing it a bit, on account of the really
magnificent scenery to be met with on the road. For-
merly, before the Jhelum valley road was opened, it was
the custom to enter Kashmir by the Murree and leave
it by the Pir Panjal route. The whole of the way
during the descent from the top of the pass, 11,400 feet
high, such views and in such glorious variety meet
the eye that each march is a continual delight. The
scenery varies from the most extensive and marvellous
views of long and lofty ranges of mountains, their
tops covered with snow late into the summer, and
encircling the entire valley, down to the soft and
lovely landscapes that spread out beneath the traveller's
foot as he slowly descends into the far-famed valley of
Kashmir.

The route over the Fir Panjal is closed from about
the end of October till the beginning of May ; but
even during this time there is an alternative route
from Thanna Mundi, the fifth march to Poonch. This
road is a long one, for it joins the Murree route to Uri,
two marches from Baramulla. Ladies sometimes, if
the pass over the Pir Panjal is covered with snow in
the early part of the season, take the Poonch route.

The railway from Lahore takes the traveller to
Gujrat. The dak bungalow is about five minutes' walk
from the station. Gujrat is the head-quarters of the
district, and contains a population of about 18,000.
It has long been famous for its inlaid work in gold and

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 3I

iron, known as Gujrat ware. About two miles from the
town is the battle-field of the second Sikh war, at
which was decided the fate of the campaign, end-
ing in the annexation of the Punjab. The cemetery,
which contains the remains of the officers who fell in
this battle, is close to the mosque. It is surrounded by
a high wall, but admittance can be obtained by apply-
ing to the guard in charge. There are no other local
monuments of this decisive engagement. Some me-
morials of the occupation of Gujrat by the Mogul
Emperors still exist ; and a famious Muhammadan saint
in the reign of Shah Jehan, named Pir Shah Doulah,
adorned the city with -several buildings from the offer-
ings of his visitors.

The journey from Gujrat to Bhimber is 28 J^ miles,
and may be performed on a hill cart, though a traveller
may engage a tonga to carry him two-thirds of the dis-
tance—up to Kotli, where there is a dak bungalow. An
ekka will cover the distance between Gujrat and Bhimber
in about ten hours, although the last few miles are very
trying, on account of the bad state of the road.
Arrangements should be made the day before. There
are two stoppages on the road to change horses. The
last stage is very difficult, as the dry beds of some
mountain streams have to be crossed, and the wretch-
ed " tattoo " often sticks in the deep sand and is unable
to go any further. On reaching Bhimber without
mishap, the traveller will find a rest-house, the first in
the Maharajah's territories, which are entered at
Bhimber. The Pir Panjal range can be seen all the
way from Gujrat, and at Bhimber tlie foot of the hills is
reached.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

The following is a list of the marches and distances
from Bhimber to Srinagar : —

No.

Names of haltinsj
places.

Distance
in miles.

Remarks.

Bhimber to Saidabad

There is a rest-house at

Naoshera

12^

the end of each march,

Changas Serai

except at Ramoo ;

Rajaori ...

supplies do not include

Thanna Mundi

meat, but a sheep may

Baramgalli

10^

sometimes be bought

Pnshiani

during a march. The

Aliabad Serai

8J4

Pir Panjal pass, 1 1,400

Hirpura ...

feet, is crossed on the

Shupyan ...

march from Poshiani

Ramoo ...

to Aliabad Serai

Srinagar

Total

iso'A

Taking the route over the Pir Panjal pass, the first
march is from —

Bhimber to Saidabad, 15 miles. — The Aditak range is
crossed near Sumani. The ascent is very steep and
the road full of boulders. The river Bhimber has first
to be crossed about six times, either on horse back or
on the back of a cooly. In the rains this operation is
not without danger, as the river runs down very rapidly.
There is a nice spring of pure water near the staging
bungalow at Saidabad, but drinkable water is not easily
procurable during the march. The road is the worst in
the whole journey. The Aditak range is the first of the
three to be crossed before the Pir Panjal is reached.
The ascent commences soon after leaving Bhimber, and
the top of the range is reached by a rough, stony path.
The view of the valley lying between this and the next

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 33

range is very pretty. Saidabad is seen below, surround-
ed by cultivated fields. The rest-house is similar to
those to be met with throughout the Maharajah's
territories. The situation is hot even early in
May. Here may be seen the ruins of the first of the
old Mogul serais on this route. They will be met with
at nearly every march, for the Emperors from Delhi
used this route. The modern rest-house has been built
in the same locality as the serais. The ruins at Saidabad
cover a good deal of ground. They are in the shape of
a quadrangle surrounded by a high wall. At one end is
a raised stone platform, on which was placed a throne
for the Emperor, who "received there the obeisances of
the people and transacted public business. The re-
mains of a small bazar, for the sale of supplies, and a
little mosque, where the Emperor and his retinue paid
their devotions during their stay, are also to be found
here. On a hill about 500 feet high, a quarter of a
mile up the valley, in a commanding position, is a fort
built by one of the family of Runjit Singli. It is now
occupied by the State police.

If the nights are moonhght, the first two or
three marches from Bhimber should be made from
midnight to sunrise. The heat of the day is thus
avoided.

Saidabad to Naoshera, 12% miles. — In this march the
second of the lower ranges is crossed. The road lies
along a valley for the first half of the way, and then the
ascent is short but rugged, and the descent long and
winding and very rough, over great blocks of sandstone-
During this march the great heat of the plains is passed,
and in the early morning the song of the cuckoo and

34 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

other birds may be heard. The scenery is pretty, the
sides of the hills are covered v/ith trees, and the valleys
are luxuriant with vegetation of all sorts. There is a
Mogul serai here, and a Sikh fort. The rest-house is
like that at Saidabad ; supplies are limited to eggs and
chickens. The water at Naoshera is dirty, and comes
from an old well. There is no spring near the staging
bungalow.

Naos/iera to Changas Serai, 125^ miles. — The distance on
all the marches seems to be rather arbitrarily fixed ; to
the traveller the time occupied is the best measure of the
distance. This march is long, hot, and tedious, but the
scenery is lovely. The road winds through the valley
of the river Tawi, and it must be followed, as there are
no bridges over the river. Before reaching Changas
Serai a wide plain is crossed, and then the river Tawi.
The rest-house may be seen on the high bank of the
river on the opposite side, nearly 200 feet above. To
make a short cut to the rest-house, the river must be
crossed, and as there is no bridge, there is usually
water to be waded through ; it comes nearly to the
hips, and a cool but wet passage is made, but as the
rest-house is close, fording is not a great drawback.
The baggage may be taken by another road. The view
from the outside of the rest-house is one of the most
striking to be seen, even in Kashmir. The first near
view is obtained of the great Pir Panjal range and the
pass. The mountains are very lofty, and look impassable .
below is a lower range, and the tops of many hills are
seen. The river has a wide, stony bed, and during the
rains there is a powerful torrent. A fine old Mogu
sejrai was here, but it is now in ruins. Supplies are

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 35

plentiful, the cost of a good fat sheep is about Rs. 4.
The spring near the rest-house is beautiful.

Changns Serai to Rajaori, 15 miles. — The road is level,
but occasionally rough. It lies along the valley of the
Tawi. The scenery is beautiful. The wide rich valleys
are well cultivated ; the chief produce is wheat. The
mountain torrents that run through the valleys are
cleverly used for irrigating the fields. The cultivators live
in square stone buildings, which are generally isolated.
The river Tawi is here confined in a narrow bed, and its
continuous roar is heard from the road. A mile before
reaching Rajaori the river must again be forded, but
early in the month of May there is not much difficulty ;
later, in the rains, another road must be taken.
Rajaori is only a very small place. Some centuries ago
it was a royal residence, and the capital of a petty
Rajah's territories. Later on the Moguls made the ruler
a tributary ; finally the Sikhs, under Maharajah Golab
Singh, took possession of the whole. Some of the in-
habitants are reported to have left the country and to
have settled in Central India. The rest-house is on the
opposite side of the river to the town. It is situated
in an old Mogul garden. It is a pavilion overlooking
the river, and has a few rooms which travellers occupy.
The town should be visited. There are some satnadhis
of Rajputs, and Mogul graves, also traces of a fine
old Mogul serai, and at the other end of the town,
an old mosque, which is still used Near it are some
very old graves. On a head-stone, leaning against the
wall, is an inscription in Persian, giving the name of a
Munshi and the date of liis death 300 years ago. Part
of the second lower range of the Himalayas lies to the

36 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

south of Rajaori. On the top of a hill near the rest-
house is a fort built by Maharajah Ranbir Singh. It
IS not completed, but has two or three guards, who
have a few old muskets, a sword, and some curious old
Sikh guns. Part of the hill is cultivated. The view
from the top is extensive. Very often in July and
August the rest-house cannot be reached, but opposite
the town the red river may be crossed with some diffi-
culty, and with the help of the Thekdar, shelter may be
had in the town itself. If the floods have not subsided,
there is risk of life in fording the river, but, if urgency
requires it, by walking about two miles up the stream
on a narrow road, it may be crossed with less difficulty
and risk. Before reaching Thanna Mundi, the next
stage, the river must again be twice forded. There is
an alternate route, much used by the old Moguls,
from Rajaori to Aliabad Serai via Darhal pass (13,080
feet). The distance by this route is 31 miles (three
stages). The scenery is simply lovely. The Nilasar
and the Nandansar lakes, two clear blue sheets of water,
are seen. Supplies are, however, scarce, and instead of
rest-houses there are shepherds' huts.

Rajaori to Thanna Mundi, 14 miles. — This march brings
the traveller to the high range of mountains which en-
closes the valley of Kashmir. The mountains are
loftier, and the valleys narrower and deeper as the Pir
Panjal pass is approached. Its snow-capped top
rises grandly above every surrounding peak Near
Thanna Mundi is a fine old Mogul serai; the entrance
gate is standing, and the greater part of the square,
the original form of the building. There is a double
row of rooms, the walls are remarkably thick, and the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 37

roof is a handsome specimen of Mogul architecture.
Several families occupy the rooms, which are blackened
by smoke, but in them the outlines of the Mogul de-
signs may still be traced. At this serai are some stuffed
gold and silver pheasants and some Argus pheasants
shot in the mountains. The people are like the inhabi-
tants of the valley of Kashmir. They dress in the
sam.e way, and are fair. Some of the women have the
beautiful eyes of the true Kashmiris; their peculiar
dress — a long loose garment — however, iiides the grace-
ful beauty of their figures, but their lovely eyes cannot
fail to be noticed. The rest-house at Thanna Mundi
at the foot of the Rutton Pir, a huge round mountain
over 8,000 feet high, is like a barrack with a few sets of
rooms. Those who prefer to aveid the stiff ascent of
the next two or three marches, turn off here by the road
leading over part of the Rutton Pir to Poonch, and
thence to Baramulla and Srinagar.

Thanna Mundi to Bayamgalli, lo miles. — The ascent to
Rutton Pir commences immediately after leaving
Thanna Mundi. The road is steep and uncared for,
but not very difficult, though some parts try the climb-
ing capacities of the ponies' to the outmost. Rocks
have to be climbed over, and big stones, the surface
made smooth by the traffic. But the little " tats," if
left entirely to themselves, choose their footsteps care-
fully, and rarely make a false step. The view, as the
top of Rutton Pir is approached, is very charming
Quite new scenery, varying in extent, attracts the eye
from the big round sides of the mountain up which the
narrow road winds along. On the top are some huts,
near which the traveller will probably rest for break-

38 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

fast. There is a fine spring of clear water close at
hand. The air is cold, but the views are many and
beautiful, if the atmosphere is not, as is unfortunately
often the case, heavy and obscured. Here is the
tomb of Rutton Pir Shah, a saint and a great travel-
ler, who lived before the time of the Mogul Emperors.
The descent through a forest of deodars is gradual,
and continues till close to the village of Baramgalli.
Some of the deodars are very fine trees, but many of
these giants of the forests have fallen and been al-
lowed to remain as they lie for many years. Some of
the views from the top overlook the forest, the tall
straight battalions of deodars presenting a striking ap-
pearance. Elms and other trees, some of them very
large, are also met with on the way down. Near
the foot of the mountain flows a torrent, which
roars along over great boulders. It is crossed by
a wooden bridge just before entering the plain on
which Baramgalli stands. The bungalow here is
built near a big walnut tree, which affords a pleasant
shade. The valley is small and almost entirely enclosed
by the mountains. The few peasants, who live an isola-
ted life here, tilling the Httle plots of level ground, often
crowd round the traveller asking for medicines. They
will accept and drink any chemist's abomination grate-
fully. From Baramgalli to Shupyan the weather can-
not be depended upon, as clouds are attracted by the
lofty top of Pir Panjal. Near the rest-house at Baram-
galli is a waterfall of about 400 feet — one of the largest
in Kashmir. It can be seen from the road when com-
mencing the next march. Baramgalli is in the territory
of the Poonch Rajah.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 39

Bavamgalli to Poshiani, lo miles. — The road on this
march runs for some distance along a deep narrow
valley, by the banks of a torrent, whicli has to be
crossed several times over frail-looking wooden bridges
Besides the big waterfall already mentioned, some
smaller falls may be seen on this march. In the early
part of the season the valley sometimes is full of snow,
which has slipped down from the tops of the lower
mountains. After a long march through the valley, a
fertile plain is reached, and the ascent of the Pir Panjal
really begins. The road is very steep, and full of big
rocks difficult to climb over. This rough ascent conti-
nues till Poshiani is reached — a small collection of huts
curiously perched on the side of the mountain. The
few people who may be seen are not regular inhabitants.
They come chiefly from Baramgalli about the middle
of May to pasture their goats and cows, and remain
only during the summer. The village seems to be
placed on the top of a precipice, for the side of the
mountain abruptly descends into a deep ravine far be-
low. Snow may be seen on the top of the opposite
mountains in the early season, and the path over the
Pir Panjal pass may be distinctly traced, covered with
snow, which also lies on the top of this range up to
the month of June. There is no rest-house at Poshiani,
but an unoccupied mud hut, capable of sleeping two or
three, is built, hke the rest of the village, on the side of
the precipice. It is not dirty, but it is certainly not
nice. A number of air-holes let in the cold winds from
the snowy regions around. There is no spot level
enough to pitch a tent on. If a traveller insists, he
must pitch his tent on the top of the neighbouring mud

40 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

huts. The scenery during the march is beautiful.
The torrent, already referred to, is simply fascinating.
It has to be crossed and recrossed about 20 or 30 times
over wooden bridges of a rather primitive style. Some
of them are very shaky, and should not be crossed on
horse-back.

From Baramgalli there is another route to Srinagar,
vid the Chchotagulli pass (14,092 feet), but it is very
difficult. There are no rest-houses, and supplies are
scarce. The distance covered is about 56 miles. The
traveller should be thoroughly well equipped with every
necessary.

There is no rest-house beyond Baramgalli on the Pir
Panjal route.

Poshiani to Aliahad Sevai, 11 miles. — This is the great
march of the route ; for the Pir Panjal pass, about half
way, has to be crossed, and then commences the des"
cent into the vale of Kashmir. If there is snow on the
pass, grass shoes (they cost one anna a pair) ought to
be worn. The wind will be found bitterly cold, and the
steep rough path before the pass is reached will have
ice hard frozen in several places. It is almost a
necessity to walk the distance, and a wet foot is certain,
for the grass shoes let in the snow readily, and an icy
chill runs through the feet. After about two and half
hours of marching the pass is reached, and the ascent
up the snow is very trying. It is a straight line to the
top over the hard snow worn smooth by traffic. Energy
and perseverance, however, have their reward, and
the traveller will find himself at the snow-clad top.
In the middle is the hut of a fakir. It is a wretched
place, this habitation of the holy man, and probably

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 4I

covered with snow. The fakir only Hves here in the
summer, when the snow has melted. If he attempted
to remain in the winter, he would certainly not see the
following summer, for his hut would be his tomb.
Arrived at the top, some disappointment will pro-
bably be felt at the magnificent view being dimmed
by the mists of the valleys beneath. An hour should,
however, be spent enjoying the novelty of the situation,
even though the minarets of Lahore musjid may not
be seen, nor Rawalpindi either, as it is said they may
be in clear weather. But the views are, nevertheless,
very grand, and by the help of a good binocular or
telescope, there is plenty to occupy full attention for
an hour. In the opposite direction, there is nothing
but the tops of the mountains to be seen, but the
fine plateau through which the road leads from the
top down to Aliabad Serai, if covered with snow, is
a sight worth beholding. Care should, however, be
taken to protect the eyes from the glare of the sun
on the snow, for cases of snow-blindness have oc-
curred from exposure at this spot. Coming up the moun-
tain over the snow, the pass is shaded in the early
morning. On this plateau, when free from snow, large
flocks of sheep and cattle are grazed in the summer
months. Numerous streams of water will be met
rushing down the sides into the valleys below in noisy
torrents, and going to swell the rivers in the plains.
Aliabad Serai, three or four miles down the mountain,
is beautifully situated, but it is a cold and very com-
fortless place. The rest-house is the old Mogul serai,
standing in a square. The old gateway remains, and
gives an appearance of comfort to the weary ; but in-

42 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

side, the old rooms with their three feet thick walls,
without doors or windows, are as comfortless as can be
imagined. When rain is falling, as is so often the case,
fires should be lighted and kept up all night. The sup-
plies are limited. The temperature is low. On 17th
May, 1882, the thermometer stood at 45° in the shade
at two o'clock in the afternoon. There is a tomb-
stone here over the grave of a surgeon, who died at the
serai from cholera in 1876, on his way back from Kash"
mir, where he had been far a few months during an
outbreak of cholera. It is about 50 yards in front of
the serai on a little plain. The spot is well chosen.
The traveller would do well to provide himself with a
light hill tent for this journey. The mud huts on the
top of the Pir Panjal pass are often used by coolies
during the night, and are very dirty, and the serai at
Aliabad may quite rightly be termed unfit for human
habitation.

Aliabad Serai to Hivpiiva, 12 miles.- — This march is very
delightful, and the views on the way down are magni-
ficent. The whole range of mountains encircling the
valley may be seen in the early season covered with
snow down to 3,000 feet, peaks from 15,00c feet to
18,000 feet towering up here and there, gleaming in
their mantle of spotless white. The road for some dis-
tance is steep and very precipitous. There is a spot,
between two and three miles from the rest-house, where
two hundred years ago three or four elephants carrying
the ladies of the Emperor Aurangzebe's harem, fell
down the precipice about 1,000 feet. Ladies and ele-
phants were all killed. This horrible accident arose
from the rotten state of the road. A stone Avail now

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 43

protects the side, but to this day the same spot is danger-
ous, and is in constant want of repairs. The difficulty
of keeping the road long in good order arises from the
fact that it is always slipping away owing to the con-
stant rain. Hirpura is in a lovely valley, part of the
vale of Kashmir, beautifully wooded. It is said to
rain here daily the greater part of the year. There
are two rest-houses occupying the opposite sides of a
square. The new one was built by the present Maharajah,
and is in the usual barrack form. It is not water-tight,
and unless the roof has been recently repaired, is not a
comfortable residence in wet weather. The rest-house
opposite is the rum of an old Mogul serai. The lower
part is used as a stable, and the long low room on the
upper floor is not exactly redolent of the perfumes of
Arabia. It is, however, water-tight, and the traveller,
in case rain is falling and he has net brought a tent,
would do well to sleep over the stable in preference to
using the barracks.

Hivpiira to Shupyan, 9 viiles. — In this march the valley
of Kashmir is fairly entered. The road is a regular
descent through a park-like country. On the green
sward may be seen several English flowers, among
which the forget-me-not is found in abundance. The
scenery around is altogether English, except for the
circle of lofty mountains, covered with snow in the
early part of the season, which impart a sense of
novelty purely Kashmirian. A number of torrents
rush sparkling along the little valleys, the land is
covered with rich crops, and theie is an entire change
from the grandeur of the mountains, over which the last
few marches have been made, to the soft scenes in the

44 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

valleys. Shupyan, which may be designated a town,
the only one on the south side of the Jhelum, is on the
bank of a wide mountain torrent, which, but for being
kept in control by embankments, would cover the whole
country around with water. Opposite the rest-house, a
barrack, are some plane trees, not very large, but interest-
ing, as some of the first of these trees, so many of which,
but generally much larger, are found in those other parts
of the vale to which the traveller is slowly marching.

There is a pleasant day's excursion to be made here
to the waterfall, or rather cataract, at Haribal, about
seven miles distant. It is the source of the river
Veshan, an important tributary of the Jhelum, into the
left bank of which it falls a little below Kambal, oppo-
site a village called Marbama, Starting from the rest-
house at Shupyan, the march is over a fine table-land,
rather wild and something like a " common " in Eng-
land, with similar furze-bushes, buttercups, and forget-
me-nots. Dozens of larks rise singing high into the air
in all directions, pleasing all ears with their beautiful
song. The village of Sedan is about five miles from
Shupyan. It is very prettily situated on the Veshan,
close to the mountain. Haribal is about three miles
further on. A guide may be taken here, for the road
is unfrequented, and lies up the side of the mountain,
at times very difficult marching. After toiling up for
about I, coo feet, the noise of falling water will be
heard, but the cataract is not visible. When the
roar sounds near, a huge rock is seen. The guide
then gives instructions to the visitors to go on their
hands and knees for a few feet, and then throw
themselves flat down on the bare rock. Following

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 45

the example of the guide, each person will, in this
position, Stretch out his hand, and catch hold of the
edge of the rock. Then slowly drawing himself to the
edge he will peer over. Then only can the cataract be
seen about five hundred feet below. The fall of water
is about 300 feet, and a great volume of spray is thrown
up. The water may be seen eddying round in the deep
rocky billow beneath till it falls again into the narrow
channel, and then makes its way in tortuous windings
as far as the eye can see in the wide beautiful plain
lying stretched out below. Returning from this new
sensation the traveller will notice the many fruit-trees,
cherry, pear, and apple, growing wild on the road, and
he probably will also notice the wild strawberries and
raspberries. A jackal or two may be met on the way.
A leopard occasionally makes his presence in the vici-
nity manifest by killing a goat or a sheep in his rounds
at night. In the town of Shupyan there is not much to
be seen. The houses here, and particularly at the vil-
lage of Sedan, are not quite built in the usual Kash-
miri style, but have a Swiss cottage-like appearance,
affording a pleasing variety. There is a wooden mosque
here which is a good specimen of the Kashmir style
of architecture in these buildings. A State dispensary
is located at Shupyan.

Shupyan to Raiiwo, 1 1 vtiles. — The march lies along flat
country the whole of the way, with diversions through
woods and shady spots. About seven miles from Shup-
yan, in an open place, is a curious collection of stones of
various shapes. The story told by the people hereabouts
is that some centuries ago a fakir was killed during the
celebration of a wedding. Why the crime was com-

46 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

mitted the story says not, but it is affirmed that the
fahiv in his dying moments prayed that the whole party
might be turned into stone. The prayer was granted,
and hence these curious-looking stones on the plain.
As evidence of the truth of the story, the bride's duhli, the
bodies of the horses in the procession, and some of the
persons present are shown. No resemblance can be
traced in the stones to the bodies of men or brutes,
but the duhli is certainly there. The material looks
more like hardly-baked clay than stone, but the relics
are curious, and one might almost suppose them to re-
cord an event of some kind, perhaps the destruction
of the bride and some of the party by lightning. Several
of the stones look like Muhammadan grave-stones, and
there is an inscription in Persian on one or two of them.

There is no rest-house at Ramoo, but the traveller's
servants can find shelter in the Native dharmsala.
The village lies partly on the side of a hill, on the top
of which is a cultivated plateau, from whence an ex-
tensive view may be had of the country round, with
Srinagar in the distance, lying at the foot of Tukht-i-
Suleiman and the fort, both of which are clearly visible.

Ramoo to Svinagar, 18 miles. — This is a long but easy
march. It may be divided by stopping at Wahtor, about
half way, and pitching a tent under some noble plane
trees, close to the village. This arrangement will
be found advantageous, as it enables the traveller to
reach Srinagar in a short march, at an earlier hour
than he otherwise could, and without being much
fatigued. Some walking about in Srinagar will be
needful probably before a suitable spot can be selected
at which to pitch one's tent. The road from. Wahtor

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

is perfectly level, and it terminates with the novelty,
for Kashmir, of a well-kept road. On each side are
poplar trees, 25 feet apart, reaching the whole way from
Wahtor to Srinagar. Some fine chinar trees will also
be seen. Many of the older trees are hollow, and the
inhabitants have in all cases enlarged the hollows by
cutting pieces of firewood from the sides — a custom
very often tending to the destruction of the trees. The
small river Dudhganga is met with on this march.
It rises in the mountains not far from Ramoo, and flows
into the Jhelum at the farther end of Srinagar. Just
before entering the capital is to be seen a Hindu tem-
ple, in a large enclosure, in the centre ofwhichisthe
samadhi of the Emperor Golab Singh.

The Poonch Route.
Thaniia Mtindi to Baramulla.
The marches from Gujrat to Thanna Mundi, which
travellers by the Poonch route must make, have been
described above. The following is a list of the marches
and distances after leaving Thanna Mundi.

No.

Names of places.

Distance
in miles.

Remarks.

Gujrat to Thanna

Mundi

97i

See Pir Panjal route.

Sooran ..

Rest-house.

Poonch ...

Rest-house. Supplies abun-
dant.

Kahoota

Rest-house. Supplies diffi-
cult to obtain.

Aliabad ...

No rest-house. No sup-
plies.

»3

Hydrabad

No rest-house. No sup-
plies. Snow over Haji
Pir till middle of May.

Uri

Joins Jhelum valley road.

48 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

The marches on this route are difficult, there are two
more than by that of the Pir Panjal. The road is bad
and mountainous, and supplies are not abundant ;
whereas the last three marches on the Pir Panjal
route are in the valley of Kashmir. Presuming that
this Poonch route is chosen, the marches continue in the
order noted.

Thanna Mundi to Soovan, 16 miles. — A slight ascent leads
after six miles to the pass over the Rutton Pir, thence
the descent is easy ; forests on the sides of the mountain
and in the deep valley below afford shade and varied
views, A stream in the valley is crossed many times.
Soon after the Sooran river must be forded, and then
the road follows the valley, and is comparatively level.
The rest-house contains four rooms.

Sooran to Poonch, 14 miles. — The valley of the Sooran
is followed the whole way ; the river is crossed close to
the village. About half way a considerable stream is
passed ; near it is a path over the mountains to Gul-
marg. Poonch, the chief town in the Poonch territory,
hardly deserves to be called a town. It is on the
right bank of the Sooran, which falls into a large river
called the Bitarh, a little below the town on the west.
The palace occupied by Rajah Baldeo Singh is notice-
able, and also the new fort. The rest-house here is
a better and more commodious building than the one
at Sooran.

Poonch to Kahoota, 9 miles. — The road on this march
passes through a cultivated valley, near the bank of the
Bitarh. Kahoota is a very small village ; it lies at the
foot of a range of hills, at a slight elevation above the
bank of the river. The rest-house stands by itself in

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 4g

open ground, and, on account, perhaps, of only occa-
sional visitors, is a very small building. Supplies are
not plentiful here or at the other rest-houses.

KaJwota to Aliabad, 8 miles. — The road for three miles
is in a valley, and then descends between rocks to the
bed of a mountain torrent, which must be forded. For
the rest of the way the road is difficult and rough.
Aliabad is a collection of huts on the side of the hill,
and the march is terminated by the Haji Pir range,
which is crossed in the succeeding march.

Aliabad to Hydrabad, 7 miles. — This march is also a short
one. The road runs nearly straight up the mountain
for three miles over the Haji Pir pass, and in a similar
manner descends on the opposite side, but through
dense forests. The elevation of this pass is about 8,500
feet. At the top there is a fakir's hut, and grass grows
luxuriantly. Hydrabad is another small village high on
the side of the mountain, but in Kashmir territory. The
dominions of the Rajah of Poonch are now passed.
There is no rest-house.

Hydrabad to Uri, 10 miles. — The road runs on the left
bank of a stream called the Shah Kakuta. The march
is rough and difficult, ascending and descending many
times, with an occasional stream to ford. Three or four
miles from Hydrabad one of the largest waterfalls in
Kashmir is to be seen. After the difficulties of this
march have been safely got over, the road joins the
Jhelum valley road.

CHAPTER III.

THE VALE OF KASHMIR.

THE territory of His Highness the Maharajah ot
Jammu and Kashmir extends from 32* 17' to
36" 58', north latitude, and from 73° 26' to 80* 30', east
longitude. It covers an area of 80,900 square miles,
with a population estimated in 1891 of 2,543,952 persons.
It is bounded on the north by some petty semi-inde-
pendent hill states, mostly subordinates to Kashmir,
and by the Karakoram mountain and the Karakoram
pass, the principal route between India and Turkestan.
On the east by Chinese Tibet. On the south and
west by the Punjab districts of Rawalpindi, Jhelum,
Gujrat and Sialkoce, and the Hazara country. The
ruler of this extensive dominion is His Highness Major-
General Maharajah Pratap Singh, G.CS.I. Kashmir
is a country with diverse races, who speak different
languages, profess different religions, and have differ-
ent customs and manners. For administrative purposes
it is divided into two divisions, Jammu and Kash-
mir, which includes Ladakh, Skardu and Gilgit. The
valley of Kashmir, which is entirely surrounded by lofty
ranges of the Himalaya mountains, is about 84 miles
in length, and 20 to 25 miles in breadth, covering an
area of about 1,850 square miles. It is nearly in the
centre of the Kashmir territory. The elevation of the
valley is about 5,300 feet above sea level ; it is traversed
by the river Jhelum, which rises near Vernag at the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 5I

east end of the valley, and is navigable from Islama-
bad to Baramulla, nearly the entire length of the valley.
After receiving several tributary streams, it runs through
the gorge at Baramulla, a noisy and in some places a
deep narrow torrent through the mountains, till it
reaches the Punjab plains. There are several minor
valleys opening into the Kashmir valley. The prin-
cipal of these are Lolab, Sind, Liddar, and Nobug.
In the surrounding hills there are several grassy valleys
and meadows ; the principal are Gulmarg, Sonamarg,
Zojimarg, and Rupamarg. The margs, or mountain
downs, are numerous on the top of the hills below the
Pir Panjal, one of which, Gulmarg, is the summer re-
sort of visitors to the valley. Some are found also on
the slopes of the mountains on the north-eastern sides
of the valley, one of which is the Sonamarg in the
Sind valley. These downs serve as grazing grounds
for herds of ponies, cattle, sheep and goats. The prin-
cipal tributaries of the Jhelum are the Liddar, Sind,
Pohru, Vishan, Romush, Rambiara, and Dudhganga.
The lakes in the valley are the Dal or the City lake,
Anchar, Manesbal and Wular, the last being the largest.
There is a lower range of mountains, close to the high-
er range, within the valley, encircling it The land,
which on both sides of the river is very flat for several
miles, is used chiefly for the cultivation of rice. The
rest of the valley is composed of extensive table-lands
and sloping hills, which descend gradually from the
mountains into the plains. The plateaux are
known as kareimJis, and are under cultivation. They
are supposed to have resulted from the gradual subsi-
dence of the waters when the whole of the valley was

52 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

a vast lake. There are several lofty peaks among the
mountains surrounding the valley. The highest in the
Pir Panjal ranges are Muli, 14,952 feet above sea level,
and Aheetotopa, 13,042 feet. In the north of the valley is
Harmuk, 16,903 feet, a mountain sacred to the Hindu
Goddess Parbatia, who from her mountain home on the
Harmuk used to sail in her pleasure-boat on the great
lake Satistar, which occupied the valley. Further south
is Mahadev, and the peak of Amarnath, 17,321 feet.
North of the valley is the Zojila pass (11,300 feet) leading
to Leh. Near this pass towers the peak of Gwashbrari'
or Kolahoi, 17,839 feet. Then there is the Hoksar pass,
13,315 feet, leading to Petgam. The loftiest peak of all
is Nanga Parbat in Chilas, to the north-west of Kashmir,
26,629 feet above sea level. There are several passes
leading into the valley, the principal of which are, on
the north Razdiangan fix, 800 feet), and Burzil (13,600
feet) ; on the south Marbal (11,570 feet), Banhal (9,200
feet), and Pir Panjal (11,400 feet) ; on the east Margan
(11,300 feet), Zojila (11,300 feet), and Karakoram
(18,317 feet) ; on the west Tosa Maidan (10,560
feet) ; and on the north-west Nattishinar (10,200
feet).

The river Jhelum, Vitasta of the Hindus and Hy-
daspes of the Greeks, runs through the valley from east
to west for about a hundred miles from its source at
Vernag to Baramulla, where it narrows into a moun-
tain torrent and is not navigable. The river falls 165
feet in the first 30 miles, and 55 feet in the next 25
miles to Wular, beyond which the fall is very slight.
Before reaching Khanabal, one mile from Islamabad,
three or four streams fall into it. The Sind river, nearly

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 53

as large as the Jhelum, falls into it at Shadipore. The
Jhelum is during the dry season a very inconsiderable
river, but when the snow melts on the high mountains
surrounding the valley in May, the waters are greatly
swollen, causing great floods, which occasionally prove
disastrous. Such a flood occurred in 1893, which
swept away all the bridges, with the exception of the
Amira Kadal. The magnificent bridge over the
Jhelum at Domel, the dak bungalow there, and the
old suspension bridge at Kohala were completely des-
troyed. For several days eight feet of water ran over
the Munshi Bagh. Below Sopur is the river Pohru,
which runs down through part of the Lolab valley, and
is only navigable daring the summer months. The
Dudhganga is a small stream which rises in the Pir
Panjal range, and is first met with on the march from
Ramoo to Srinagar, the last on the route. It falls into
the Jhelum immediately below Srinagar. A little
beyond, in the Tilail valley, rises the river Kishen-
ganga. It contains a considerable volume of water, and
flows in a north-westerly direction till near Shardi,
where it turns to the south-west and flows into the
Jhelum, just below Muzaffarabad. At the east end
of the valley is the Wardwar river, which flows south
through the valley of ]\Iaru Wadwan, and falls into
the Chenab above Kishtwar.

There are several magnificent springs in the valley,
such as Achhabal, Vernag, Kokarnag, Arpal and
Chusma Sahi. Sulphurous springs exist at Wuyun
near Pampor and at Islamabad, and it is believed that
there are several hot springs in the Dal and Wular
lakes.

54 a guide for visitors to kashmir.

Administration.

Kashmir is a province in the territories of His High-
ness the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir. For
administrative purposes it includes the district of Muzaf-
farabad. The valley proper is divided into eleven tahsils,
which are as follows : — i, Lai ; 2, Srinagar ; 3, Sri
Pratap Singhpur ; 4, Nagam ; 5, Wantipura ; 6, Anant-
nag ; 7, Haripur ; 8, Sri Rangbir Singhpur ; 9, Uttur
Manchipura ; 10, Sopur ; 11, Pattan. Each tahsil is con-
trolled by a tahsildar. The head judicial officer of
Kashmir is the Chief Judge, who hears appeals from '
the courts of all the subordinate judges in Srinagar,
and also from the courts of tahsildars, who are both
executive and judicial officers. The chief revenue
officer is called the Hakim Ala or Governor. The
above departments and such others as the police, settle-
ment, education, oiedical, accounts, and forests are
very well managed. The Postal and Telegraphic De-
partments are in the hands of the Imperial Govern-
ment, but the telegraphic line from Srinagar to Jammu,
via Banihal, and from Srinagar to Skardu are worked
by the State Telegraph Department.

The Resident in Kashmir and his assistant have the
power to enquire into or try cases against European
British subjects, Americans, Europeans of any national-
ity other than British, Christians of European descent,
Native Indian subjects, such subjects as are either
merely visiting the territories of His Highness the Maha-
rajah, or acting as servants of a European British sub-
ject, and British subjects accused of having committed
offences conjointly with European British subjects. The
trial of Native Indian subjects, who ordinarily dwell or

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 55

carry on business or personally work for gain within the
Kashmir territories, rests with the courts of the Darbar.
The Resident and his assistant have also the power to
dispose of suits in which (i) both parties are subjects
of Her Majesty, not ordinarily dwelling or carrying on
business within Kashmir territories ; (2) the defendant
is an European British subject ; (3) the defendant is a
Native Indian subject of Her Majesty, and at the time
of the commencement of the suit does not ordinarily
dwell or carry on business within the territories of the
Maharajah. All other suits between British subjects on
the one hand, and subjects of the Maharajah on the
other, come before the courts of the State.

History.

The history of Kashmir may be divided into seven
epochs — I, Pre-historic ; 2, Hindu ; 3, Muhammadan ;
4, Mogul ; 5, Durani ; 6, Sikh ; 7, Dogra.

The famous book " Rajtarangini," written by Kalhana
Pandit, and subsequently continued by other writers,
is the chief source of historical information about Kash-
mir. It is written in Sanskrit verse, and is composed of
eight cantos. It has been translated by Mr. J. C.
Dutt, of Calcutta, into English.

Pre-Historic.

" Rajtarangini " commences with an account of the
desiccation of the valley by Kashapa. At an early
period the entire valley of Kashmir is supposed to have
been a vast mountain lake, and the remains of fresh
water fish found on the table-land, together with other

56 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

traces which may be seen on the sides of some of the
m.ountains, tend to confirm this view. Eventually the
pressure of water on the weakest point in the moun-
tains, which would have been at Baramulla, forced a
passage there, and the vast body of water which was
let loose tore a way for itself through the mountains, till
the Punjab plains were reached. In returning from
Kashmir by the Murree route, the traveller may perceive
more readily than he would on entering Kashmir, a
number of deep indentations on the sides of the moun-
tains. Some are semi-circular, where water has evi-
dently either rushed through in a resistless torrent,
cleaving the side of the mountain, or where resistance
has been met with, has eddied round, cutting its way
through, till the pressure from behind being gradually
reduced, the water has finally been confined to
its present channel in the contracted bed of the
Jhelum.

This great lake was called Satisar, or the lake of Sati,
another name of the goddess Parvati. In it resided the
demon Zaludban, who preyed upon mankind. It
happened that Kashapa, son of Marichi, and grandson
of Brahma, visited the country, and inquired into the
cause of the distress of the people. When informed
of Zaludban and his cruelty, Kashapa passed a thousand
years in austere devotion, and invoked the aid of the
gods, who, opening the mountain at Baramulla, drained
off the lake and slew Zaludban. The name of Kashmir
may possibly be derived from this event, being a con-
traction of Kashapmar, or the country of Kashap. Or
the derivation may be from two Sanskrit words kas mira,
water drained.

a guide for visitors to kashmir. 57

Hindu Period.
In the early period of Hindu history, there was a
patriarchal form of Government, and subsequently the
headman of each village, the Kota Rajah, was the
nominal king. Naturally these kings constantly quar-
relled with one another, and the people, exasperated by
the anarchy which prevailed, called a Rajput from the
Jammu country to rule over them. The hill rajah,
Dayakaran, settled in Kashmir, and it is said that for
a period of 633 years, fifty-five of his descendants
reigned in Kashmir. The last of this dynasty was
Somadat, who was killed in the battle between Kuras
and Pandus, celebrated in the Mahabharata. After
Soniadat's death, Gonanda became king. He ascended
the throne in 3121 B.C. According to Kalhana, in 2448
B.C. Several dynasties followed. During this period
Raja Ramdev built the famous temple on the plateau of
Mattan, about 3007 B.C. King Lau built a city at Lolab,
and Wazir Bambro took the kingdom from King Prah-
lad. A popular song among the Kashmiris tells of the
loves of Bambro and a beautiful woman named Lolare.
The song is known as Lolare Bambro. Asoka conquered
Kashmir in about 1394 B.C. He introduced Buddhism,
but his son, Jaloka, renounced his father's faith and
established the Shiva form of worship. Another name
which figures in the history of Kashmir of this period is
Sandeman, who placed on the throne three princes of
Turkestan,— Hushk, Zushk, and Kanishk— who ruled for
41 years. A succeeding rajah, Abhimanyu, uprooted Bud-
dhism in Kashmir. Mehrakul is remembered as a power-
ful but cruel king. Gopaditya was the sixth king after
Mehrakul, and built the temple on the Tukht-i-Suleiman.

58 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Raja Pravarsen founded the city of Srinagar. Lalita-
ditya reigned from 697 to 738 A.D. He was just and
enlightened, and under his rule the people prospered.
Full details of the history of the country under the
kings who followed him are to be found in the " Rajtaran-
gini." Queen Dida, wife of Khemagupta, ruled 23 years,
and it is said that she murdered her own. grandsons in
order to assume the reins of Government. The Hindu
kingdom ended in the early part of the 14th century.
From all accounts, it appears that the people were
happy under the Hindu kings, who ruled with justice
tempered with mercy. Various public works in the
nature of canals and great buildings, some of which
still remain, are proof of the prosperity of their Raj.

MUHAMMADAN PeRIOD.

This period commences with the reign of Renchan
Shah, who was a son of the King of Tibet. Coming
as an adventurer to the valley, he was attached to the
court of Sahadiv, in whose reign Zulfikadr Khan, the
Tartar, invaded Kashmir. Renchan Shah was married
to Kuta Rani, daughter of Ram Chund, the commander-
in-chief. He proclaimed himself king in 1323 A.D.
He wanted to become a Hindu, but the Brahmans
refused to admit him into the faith. They were pro-
bably sorry for this afterwards, for there came a Sayyid,
named Bulbul Shah, from Arabia, who made the king a
convert to Islam. Renchan changed his name to
Sadruddin, killed many Hindus, and destroyed their
temples and scriptures. In his time the universal cry
was " Na batu ham " — '* I am not a Hindu." Renchan
rebuilt the Juma mas/id^ which had been burnt down,

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 59

and the BulbuUankar. After his death, Udayandev,
brother of Sahadeva, married his widow and reigned
15 years. After the latter's death, Shah Mirza, the
commander-in-chief under Kuta Rani, declared him-
self king. He proposed marriage to Kuta Rani, to
which she consented, but soon afterwards stabbed
herself to death. Shah Mirza then became king of
Kashmir. Twenty-six Muhammadan kings followed.
Of these Sultan Sikandar, called But-Shikan, or the
Iconoclast, was notorious for his religious fanaticism,
displayed in the destruction of Hindu temples. He
demolished Martund and the temples of Avantipore and
Pandritan. It is stated that he kept a large number
of men in his service, whose sole duty it was to demol-
ish temples and idols. A local story is to the effect
that when he destroyed the image of Ganesh at
Ganeshbal on the Amar Nath road, a stream of blood
poured into the Liddar river. The Brahmans say that
when the porch of the Bijbihara temple was being
pulled down, a stone was found with the following
inscription : —

" Bismilla mantrina nashante Vizaeshwari " — " Bismilla
is a magic word that will destroy the Vizaeshwari
temple."

When this story was told the brutal Sikandar, he ex
pressed his regret that by his actions he had fulfilled the
predictions of idolators. He destroyed all the Sanskrit
books he could lay hands on, and by force converted a
number of Brahmans to Islam. Better days dawned
on Kashmir with the reign of Zainulabdin, which
commenced in 14 17 A.D. He reigned for 52 years,
and is still remembered by the Kashmiris as the great,

6o A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

enlightened, tolerant, and virtuous Badshah. He
introduced the manufacture of the famous Kashmir
shawl by importing wool from Tibet and workmen
from Turkestan. He also taught the manufacture of
paper and papier mache—mdinniaciuxes which exist to the
present day. Among other works of public utility, he
constructed the Nalla Mar canal between the city and
the Dal lake. He was a patron of literature, a poet,
and a great lover of field sports. Soon after his death
all the advantages gained by his benign rule were lost,
owing to the increasing influence of the clan of Chaks,
who raised themselves into power. They resisted for a
time attacks from without, but eventually jealousies
arose amongst themselves, and treachery and crime
destroyed their power. The Chak kings, who were
eight in number, reigned from 1554 to 1587 A.D.

In Yusuf Khan's reign a Mogul army, sent by the
Emperor Akbar, invaded Kashmir, but was routed
by Yakub Khan, the son of Yusuf Khan. The
victorious general, elated by his victory, became very
cruel to the Hindus and Sunis. The oppressed people
appealed to Akbar, who, during the years 1585 and
1587, despatched several expeditions into Kashmir.
The last army utterly defeated Yakub Khan, and
the Mogul rule was finally established in the country.

Mogul Period.

Kashmir had its share of the benefits of the rule of
the Emperor Akbar. He visited the valley three
times. During his reign Todarmal, the gi eat financier,
made a revenue settlement of the country. The wall
round Hariparbat was built by Akbar. Then followed

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 6l

Jehangir, during whose reign the numerous pleasure
gardens in different parts of Kashmir were constructed.
During the Mogul period the country was governed
by Subadars, responsible only to the Emperor. x\ititad
Khan is remembered as a cruel ruler, while Jafar
Khan and Ali Mardan Khan are spoken of as kind and
just. The evil influence of Aurangzebe's reign was
also felt in Kashmir, and never had the Hindus been
so mercilessly persecuted. With the decay of the Mogul
Empire, the Subadar assumed independent powers, and
the country fell into anarchy. It was at this time that
the Pathans invaded Kashmir and became its rulers.

DuRANi Period.

The Pathan rule commenced in 1752 A.D. with
Ahmed Shah, the Afghan. Twenty-eight Durani rulers
reigned in Kashmir from 1753 to 1819 A.D. It was for-
tunate for the country that the Pathan rule lasted no
longer, for the oppression of the people, especially the
Hindus, by these savages is perhaps unparalleled in the
history of the world. During the rule of Jabbar Khan
(1819), the last of the Durani kings, Ranjit Singh, the
"Lion of the Punjab,'' had already become famous. A
Pathan noble, Fatteh Khan Barakzai, promised to help
the latter if he would invade Kashmir. The Sikh inva-
sion would probably not have been successful had not
Ranjit Singh been aided by the advice of a Kashmiri
Pandit, Birbal Dal, who had fled to Lahore. While the
Pandit was away at Lahore, attempting to rescue his
country from the oppression of the Pathans, they were
taking revenge by forcibly converting his family and
zenana to Islam. His son's wife was made a Mussal-

62 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

mani and sent to Kabul, and Birbal's wife committed
suicide. The Pathan ruler, Muhammad Azim,
however, soon fled to Kabul, and in 1819 Ranjit
Singh's general, Misr Diwan Chand, planted the Sikh
flag on the fort of Hariparbat.

Sikh Period.

The Sikhs ruled Kashmir through a Governor, de-
puted from Lahore. There were ten in all of these
governors. The rule of most was uneventful. Moti Ram
is remembered as a just man, and Kripa Ram as a
pleasure hunting and idle Governor, Colonel Mian
Singh, who was murdered at Srinagar by muti-
neers of the Sikh army, is spoken of as an enlightened
ruler, who introduced several reforms into the adminis-
tration. The mutiny was subdued by Ranjit Singh's
general, Gulab Singh. An account of Kashmir during
Colonel Mian Singh's governorship will be found in
Baron Hugel's and Vigne's books.

DoGRA Period.
In 1845, during the governorship of Shekh Imam-
uddin, what is known as the second Sikh war broke
out, and after the battle of Subraon in 1846, Maha-
rajah Gulab Singh, as minister of the Khalsa,
negotiated with the British at Amritsar, and the
Government of India transferred and made over for
ever in independent possession to the Maharajah and
heirs male of his body, all the hilly and mountainous
country situated to the east of the Indus and west of
the Ravi rivers. In consideration of this transfer,
Maharajah Gulab Singh paid to the British Govern -
ment the sum of 75 lakhs of rupees.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 63

Imamuddin raised some opposition to the new ruler,
but was soon disposed of by the great Sikh General.
During the mutiny the latter sent a contingent of
troops and artillery to co-operate with the English
force at Delhi. In the same year he died, and was
succeeded by his son, Maharajah Ranbir Singh,
G.C.S.I., who was born in 1832. In the Afghan war
of 1 881, the latter also sent a contingent of troops and
artillery to Lahore to assist the British Government,
if required. They were reviewed, together with the
troops sent from other Native States of India, at
Lahore by Lord Lytton, .and a portion was sent to
guard the country about the Khyber pass. The
Maharajah received a Sunnad giving adoptive rights.
He was a G. C.S.I, and CLE., a General in the
British Army and Councillor of the Empress. He
died in September, 1885, ^"d was succeeded by his
eldest son, Maharajah Pratap'Singh, G.C.S.I., Major-
General in the British Army. He is now the Sovereign
of Kashmir.

Climate and Meteorology.

The climate of Kashmir is very salubrious and differs
in many respects from that of the surrounding countries.
As a sanitarium, Kashmir is well suited to those whose
constitution is injured by the heat of the plains. The
spring usually commences in the middle of March,
when the fruit trees blossom and Nature assumes a
glorious aspect. The spring is, however, cold, windy,
and showery. In the middle of May summer begins,
when the days are hot, but the nights cool. The heat
increases in June, but it never becomes oppressive.

64 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

July and August are the hottest months, but frequent
thunder storms in the evening have the eflfect of
cooHng the air.

During July and August, Srinagar and its outskirts
are slightly malarious. In July heavy rain often pours
W days, which, with the melting of the snow on the
higher mountains, often produces floods. This rain is
simultaneous with the south-west monsoon. Srinagar
is, therefore, by no means a pleasant place to live in
from the middle of June until the end of August. A
most charming climate is available within a few hours
journey at Gulmarg, or at Gures, Sonamarg, Nagamarg,
Nilamarg, Gogjipathar, etc.

September, October and November are dry months.
October, with its fine crisp morning air, is the best
month in Kashmir. The days are bright and sunny,
and a more perfect climate cannot be imagined. At the
end of October, snow falls on the higher mountains.
November and December are very cold ; in December
snow falls in the valley. The nights are frosty in the
middle of November, and by the end of that month the
trees are stripped of their leaves, and the year's vegeta-
tion is killed off. Snow falls frequently in January and
February, and the valley is usually covered with a
white mantle during these two months. Severe frost,
lasting for several days, often appears by the end of
January. In some years it is so severe that the lakes
and water-courses are frozen. Kashmir has good winter
rainfall from December to March. In March the snow
disappears and spring comes on with a burst. Kashmir
is cooler than any of the other hill stations throughout
the year, except in the months of June, July and

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 65

August. The exceptional cold in winter is probably
accounted for by the fact that the valley is a closed
hollow basin surrounded by high mountains. The
most interesting feature of the climate is the large
amount of sunshine combined with a low temperature.
Such a climate, it is needless to say, is of the greatest
value to consumptive and other patients. The winter
is, however, not suited to persons suffering from chest
diseases, rheumatism, or gouty diathesis. Purpura some-
times breaks out in epidemic form in Srinagar and the
surrounding villages. Small-pox also is liable to be
prevalent in the autumn..

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

The following meteorological table for 1895 ^^^^ ^^
of interest : —

•n^jmong

•q^noOT

^ CO >-<

OC GO CO ^ ip rH M ^ :0 p O ^£ I O T'

•snoi;aodoad pnoio jo uvsyi

-oaSiq JO X:^Tpininq uBaj^

•jnoq Jad saxtui
ui pmM JO ;C;popA u'Eajt

CiOCOCOi-<^M»bc^r-tibcO

Cil-OOCOCO(Z)OOQOOOC»C; 0

C004-<J*C£)i>iO»Ooio»ftOTS«

•a^BQ

•q^nora aq^ Smjnp
aai^^uiadtna^ ijsaMOi

•9^«a

•q^nota aq^ Snianp
aan:>Baaduia!> ^jsaqSig

•nmraTopn weaj^

"ninnnx'Btn UBajf

"iiBajI

^eOrHCDTjfOC-lOOOi-tCOCO
rH CO l-< .-H W CO rt

OCO (?^CO^CO^CO''^C1-*C4

(NOfMCO-'J'WiCOMrHf^CqW
(>J C<) C^ C^ C<» (N O*

•^o^r^QO'^'^cococccoo

C0»CC^OC^C". QOOOp^i-h^h

f-IQOT»«t--^Or-tCOCOCiCOC;
C^f-tcOCO^OeC^'-OiOCOCOtN

COCOOOSOCOMCOr-tC^OOCO

o^cO'*lOcocoooooco^-*o■*

ocococoo«oooic--i^)OW(r4

(NC^CO-^O^fSO^O-^J^COCO

EO
CO

•qifuota aq:} Stn
-anp ajnssaad ^saMOT

■9^«a

•q^noni aq^ 3m
-onp ajnseajd ijeaqSig

•a^BQ

•q^nora aq;
Snunp ajnssajd u^aj^

TJ*OCO^^C^X(M05C/5000
CiiOClCOCO'TJt^COO'^^O

rHt^OCO — »CCi'^OeOCOi-<
OOC: OiCOt^OCOGCC. oo

H H 2 r' :^ O 0)

a guide for visitors to kashmir. 6j

People.

The inhabitants of Kashmir are of a primitive Aryan
stock, who migrated from the Punjab at different times,
rhey are sometimes fair and ruddy. The men are
physically well-built and often very fine-looking. The
women are sometimes very handsome. The parda-
nashins are, of course, very rarely seen. The men wear
a long shirt called firan, which in the case of Hindus
has long, narrow sleeves, and Muhammadans short,
full ones. The Hindu woman or Punditani wears a
girdle and has a white cap, whereas the Mussulman!
wears a red head-dress. . The black hair of young girls
is braided in many thin strands, covering the back and
forming a semi-circle, with a knot of hair hanging
down the back, and stretching sometimes nearly to the
feet. The Kashmiris are a great tea drinking nation,
but as a rule they abstain from wine. Speaking of
Kashmiri villagers, Mr. Lawrence, than whom there
is no greater authority, says: — "If one looks to the
purely material condition of the. villagers, I should
say that the Kashmiri peasant is in every respect
better off than his fellows in India. He has ample
food, sufficient clothing, a comfortable house, and
abundance of fuel, and he obtains these without much
effort."

The people of Kashmir before the fourteenth century
were all Hindus. The mass of the people were forcibly
converted to Islam by their Muhammadan rulers. The
religious taxes and Mussalmani fanaticism induced
many Hindus to fly out of the country and settle in
India, where they now form a very intelligent section
of the community. The Hindus of Kashmir are all

68 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Brahmans, and are called Pandits. The Muhammadans,
who form the bulk of the population, are divided into
Shias and Sunnis.'the former numbering about fiv6 per
cent, of the total Muhammadan population. A sprink-
ling of Sikhs, Rajputs, Moguls and Pathans is also
to be found. There are many of the lower castes
and sects, such as Dums, Galwans, Chanpans, and
Watals. That the Muhammadans in Kashmir are the
descendants of Hindus converted to Islam is corrobo-
rated by the fact that tlie members of the two
religions live on very amicable terms, and that the
Muhammadans have not the same religious zeal that
cliaracterizes their co-religionists elsewhere. Many
Muhammadans, too, still bear Hindu surnames, such
as Rishi, Bat, and Pandit. It is also a singular fact
■that there are many places of worship which are
held in reverence by both Hindus and Muham-
madans.

The Kashmiris are an intelligent race, of a cheery
and humorous, if somewhat imaginative, disposi-
tion. Want of education and a succession of alien
and oppressive rulers have no doubt degraded
their character, but of late the spread of education,
contact with other nations, and a better form of
Government, are raising them to a higher and more
, civilised stage. Sir Lepel Griffin , writing of Kash-
mir, says : — " For there, as part of the natural
beauty in which they were born and nourished, an
interesting race, an ancient and stately civilization,
and a scientific religion, had their home long before
Romulus traced with a furrow the future walls of
Rome."

A. GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. fig^

'• The census of 1891 showed a population for Kash-
mir, including Muzaffarabad, of 949,041 people, who
were thus classified —

Hindus. Sikhs. Muhammadans. Christians. Parsis.

60,316 5.473 883,099 145 8

i.'..jj;>,/;.:;Males ... ... 502,345

.'.!:j": Females '. . ^. ... 446,696

■ - - " )

. Language.

The Kashmiris speak a distinct language, which has
been described as being " rather curiously and closely
related to the Sanskrit,", but there are more Persian
than Sanskrit words in the Kashmiri language. Out of
loo words 40 will be Persian, 25 Sanskrit, 15 Urdu,
10 Arabic, and the remaining 10 Tibetan, Turki,
Dogri, or Punjabi. The language is not written, and is
rather difficult for a foreigner. The vocabulary is
rich, and there are many witty Kashmiri proverbs.
Hindustani is understood in Srinagar, and by persons
of position. The villagers speak and understand
nothing but Kashmiri. The court language is Persian,
although Urdu has also recently been introduced. In
former times Sanskrit was the universal medium of edu-
cation, and many of the Pandits were great Sanskrit
scholars. There are many valuable Sanskrit manuscripts
still to be found in Kashmir, which are not obtainable
elisewhere. At the present day Persian is taught every-
where, and every educated man can speak that language
fluently. English is also now taught in some of the
schools, and future generations will probably be taught
entirely in the Western tongue. The study of history
is;a favourite one, and almost every Kashmiri knows

70 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

something of the past of his country. Hindu astrology
is very popular.

Religion.

The people of Kashmir were originally Nag worship-
pers, and then Pouranic Hinduism was the universal
creed. There are in the valley of Kashmir a great num-
ber of springs, rushing from beneath the mountains,
as though coming direct from the centre of the earth.
To these a mysterious origin has been attributed
from time immemorial by the inhabitants ; on this ac-
count they have been dedicated by the former serpent-
worshippers of Kashmir to the ** Nag " or snake, the
oldest form of worship. Sometimes a huge snake is
believed to have its abode in the neighbouring mountain.
The principal of these " Nags " are Kousar Nag, at the
east end of the valley, at the top of a mountain in the
Pir Panjal range ; Shushi Nag, on the road to Amar-
nath ; Anant Nag, Salik Nag, and Malak Nag in the
town of Islamabad ; Vernag, the chief source of the
river Jhelum ; Kukar Nag, also in the eastern part of
the valley ; and Gangabal in the Sind valley. Again,
at Wuyun, there is a sulphur and iron stream of water,
which is called Phaka Nag. A fresh- water spring near
it is called Kalish Nag ; a few miles beyond is another
spring, at the foot of a mountain, in which the people of
the village say there is a serpent still. There is a round
building in a tank for him to occupy whenever he may
feel disposed to leave the mountain. The name " Nag "
given to these places is evidence of the ancient religion
of the people of Kashmir, who may have belonged to
the Scythian migration into Northern India about the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 7I

sixth century before the Christian era. They were
called Takkas or Takshaks, and they penetrated far
into plains of the Punjab. Takshaka, or Taxila, the
Punjab capital, was the largest city which Alexander
the Great found between the Indus and the Jhelum,
327 B.C. The Scythic Takshaks are supposed to have
been the source of the great serpent race, the Takshakas
or Nagas, of whom so much is told in Sanskrit writings,
and whose name is still borne by the Naga tribes at
the extreme north-east of India. Naga and Takshaka
in Sanskrit both mean a snake or tailed monster. We
learn from Dr. Hunter'6 article on "India" in the
" Imperial Gazetteer," — " The Takshaks and Nagas
were the tree and serpent worshippers, whose rites and
objects of adoration have impressed themselves deeply
on the architecture and sculptures of India. The names
were applied in a confused manner to different races of
Scythic origin. The Chinese records give a full account
of the Naga geography of ancient India. The Naga
kingdoms were both numerous and powerful, and
Buddhism derived many of its royal converts from
them. The Chinese chroniclers, indeed, classify the
Naga princes of India into two great divisions, as
Buddhists and non-Buddhists. The serpent-worship,
which formed so typical a characteristic of the Indo-
Scythic races, led the Chinese to confound them with
the objects of their adorations ; and the Indo-Scythic
Nagas would almost seem to be the originals of the
Dragon races of Chinese Buddhism and Chinese art."
A learned writer remarks : — " No superstition was more
deeply embedded in the ancient Hindu mind than re-
verence for Nagas or dragons. Buddhism from the

72 A GUIDE POR -VISITORS TO KASHWm.

first had to contend as much against the under current
of Naga reverence in the popular mind as against the
superstitious opposition of the philosophic Brahman in
the upper current. At last, as it would seem, driven to
an extremity by the gathering cloud of persecution, the
Buddhists sought escape by closing with the popular
creed, and endeavouring to enlist the people against the
priests ; but with no further success than such a respite
as might be included within some one hundred years."
It has already been stated that the Hindus of Kashmir
are all.Brahmans. On this peculiarity Mr. Growse, in
his book " Mathura, a District Memoir," makes the
following remarks in the chapter on " Indian Caste : "
" In the genuine Veda there was no mention of caste
whatever, nor was it possible that there should be, on
the hypothesis now to be advanced, that the institution
of caste was the simple result of residence in a con-
quered country. This is confirmed by observing that
in the valley, which was one of the original homes of
the Aryan race, and was for many ages secured by its
position from foreign aggression, there is to the present
time no distinction of caste." In this connection the
following translation from the " Mahabharat " is inter-
esting : — " There is no distinction of castes. The whole
of this world is Brahmanical, as originally created by
Brahma. It is only in consequence of men's actions
that it has come into a state of caste divisions."
Muhammadanism, as pointed out before, was introduced
in the 14th century. Kashmir Hindus are chiefly
Sivaites or worshippers of Siva and Parbati. There are
several places in the valley held sacred by the Hindus,,
The spring of Khir Bhawani at the mouth of the Sind

A GUIDE FDR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 73

valley, the water of which iis said to change colour at
intervals, is held in great veneration. Sharka Devi
6n the Hariparbat, Jwala Mukhi at Khriv, Bhawan
and Gangabal are also held sacred. But the great
place for Hindu pilgrimage is the cave of Amarnath up
the Liddar valley, where thousands of devout Hindus
from all parts of India march up a most difficult road
to be present on the full moon of the native month
Sawan. The physical conditions of Kashmir often pro-
duce some curious natural phenomena, \(^hich may, in
the majority of cases, be easily explained. The natives,
however, regard the places where these phenomena
occur as holy, and hold them in great veneration.

The Muhammadans of Kashmir are peculiarly super-
stitious. They are saint-worshippers. A crew of
boatmen, wnen paddling, often invoke " Shukur-uddin,
Nurdin," their patron saints, or pray to Dastgir. Shah-
i-Hamadan, Makdum Sahib, Hazratbal, Juma masjid,
and Dastgir are the principal ziarats in Srinagar, while
the shrine of Nurdin at Chrar is held in peculiar
reverence.

Trade.
The Jhelum valley cart-road has given great impe-
tus to trade in Kashmir. The country is self-contained,
the valley providing all the necessaries of life, with
the exception of salt. Surrounded by high mountains
and being difficult of access, Kashmir might have con-
tinued for centuries without any contact with the outer
world. At one time shawls were largely exported, and
the trade gave employment to 25,000 men, and exceed-
ed 30 lakhs in value annually. The industry is, how-
ever, now almost a thing of the past, the Franco-Ger-

74 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

man war having given it a blow from which it never
recovered. The articles at present exported from Kash-
mir are chiefly fruits, drugs, leather, ghee, timber, and
woollen goods. The imports are chiefly cotton piece-
goods, metals, salt, sugar, tea, and petroleum.

Arts and Manufactures.

Kashmir is celebrated for several artistic industries,
which have obtained for the country great renown on
account of the excellent taste and skill shown by the
workmen. We have already referred to the shawl
trade. The real richly embroidered shawl is now sel-
dom manufactured, and in its place woollen goods of
cheaper quality, in the shape of square or oblong shawls,
plain or embroidered, are produced. Shawls are of two
kinds, loom-wove (binaut), where the whole pattern is
wrought on the loom with an endless series of threads
of all colours, and amlikar, in which a foundation is laid
of a plain or variously coloured fabric, the surface of
which is minutely worked over by hand in patterns
embroidered in fine woollen thread or silk. In shawl
goods the qualities of fineness and softness depend on
the wool used. A shawl-loom is worked thus: — The
pattern is first drawn on paper, and from the picture a
rough sketch is produced. From this the master-work-
man dictates the pattern, so many red threads, so many
blue, and so on. The working weavers follow his dic-
tation, and thus the pattern is evolved. This special
training goes on from generation to generation. The
shawls are made in small pieces, which are eventually
sewn together. The hand-made shawls, which do not
touch the loom at all, are similarly made in pieces,

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 75

which are joined together afterwards. The best kind
of woollen fabric is known as pashmina. Coarse inferior
wool is used in the manufacture of pattu, of which
various patterns in imitation of English tweeds are
now made. A good piece of pattu is not a bad imi-
tation of real Scotch home-spun, though, of course,
much inferior in finish and durability. Kashmir em-
broideries are famous for their fineness, elegance of
design, ar^d beautiful arrangement of colour. The
workmen have some practical knowledge of what the
complementary colours are, and know that setting a
colour besides its complement sets out both to the
greatest effect. Tliose who are interested in the shawl
trade will find a capital description of the same in
Moorcroft's " Travels in the Himalayan Provinces,"
and in Vigne's " Travels in Kashmir, etc," The
variety of Kashmir shawls is great ; the best way to be-
come a judge of these, and also of the embroidery on
fine pattu, is to visit the large shops where articles
from a cover for a sofa to the most expensive pashmina
shawls may be seen in great abundance and variety.

The cotton grown in the valley the people spin them-
selves, and cotton goods are' manufactured without the
help of machinery of any sort. Sticks about four feet
long are run into the ground in a straight line at equal
distances — about two or three feet — apart, according
to the length of the cloth to be manufactured. The
cotton is then laid alternately in and out of the
sticks by women, or men, and boys, walking up and
down the entire length, till the threads lie one on top
of the other to the required width — usually one yard.
The sticks and the cotton are then withdrawn from

7^ A. guide; FOR VISITORS TOi KASHMIR..

the earth, iand the whole is stretched tight, and dressed
with a" wet comb-like brush. In this way several
yards of cotton cloth are manufactured in a few
days. The cost of imported piece-goods is greater
than that of cloth mahufactured by the above original
process. Boat-women are to be found spinning cotton
at every spare moment they may have.

The papier mache work of Kashmir was at one time
highly esteemed in England, but latterly the demand
has fallen off. The designs are traced on papier mache
or on wood, and the colours employed are, in the best
articles, admirably blended. Boxes, card trays, little-
tea-tables, and a great variety of other articles are
made. The work is called kalamdani, as pen cases, or-
namented by this process, are made in large numbers.
A similar style of work is often applied to various larger
articles, and sometimes even to the walls and ceilings
of rooms. An excellent example of this could at one
time have been seen on the ceiling of the Darbar
Hall at Srinagar. The colours are usually very well
combined, but the inferior work is thick and coarse
compared with the best. A very little experience will
enable a European to discover the difference between
good and bad.

Silver and gold and copper, enamelled aiid gilt work is
carried on largely in Srinagar. Kashmir enamel is famous
all over India, and is highly priced. The metal employed is
generally silver alloyed with copper, on which the patterns,
consisting of metal dies, are hammered in.; The colours
used are generally blue and red, and sometimes yellow
Gups, trays, and bowls are ornamented by this work.
The most delicate. designs and patterns are used.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 77

Wood-carving is an old industry in Kashmir, and
during recent years great impetus has been given to the
trade. Carved wooden tables with copper tops, plain or
enamelled, are now in great demand. Beautiful ceil-
ings are made by joining together chips of deodar.

Paper is now made in the jail near Hariparbat.
It is hand-made and smooth, and strong like parchment.

Leather goods, guns, swords and various metal arti-
cles, such as knives and surgical instruments, are also:
manufactured in Kashmir. (

The Kashmiris have always been celebrated for
elaborating the decorative details of good designs,
whether in metal work, hammered or cut, enamelling, or
weaving. The shawls and metal articles of Kashmir
are remarkable for the exquisite art lavished on them.

Wine is made at Gopkar on the Dal lake from
grapes grown near Chishma Shahi. The prices are as
follows :— Claret Rs. 14 per dozen bottles; White
Wine Rs. 12 per dozen. Cognac Rs. 3 per bottle, and
Brandy No. i Rs. 2, and No. 2 Re. i per bottle.

Carpets are manufactured in Kashmir. Those who
are interested in this branch of industry should visit
the extensive factories^ of Messrs Hadow and Co.
and those of M. Duvereigne.

, Sericulture was once a very thriving industry, but the
silkworms became infected with febrine, and the in-
dustry completely died out. Endeavours to resuscitate
it have given encouraging results.

The natives are always inclined to be imaginative in
the prices they ask, and those who wish to buy Kashmir
art work would do well to be guided by others, who
know what the price should be.

78 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Silver articles should be bought with caution, as
for want of any system of Government assaying alloy
is largely used. The usual rate is 2 annas per tola for
plain work, 3 annas for the best kind, and 4 annas for
gold enamelled work. Copper with gold enamelling is
sold at 3 annas per tola or a rupee weight.

The prices of carved walnut-wood tables with copper
tray tops vary according to the quality, but Rs. 50
should procure a very handsome one. It would not
be quite fair to name any particular dealer in any of
the Kashmir manufactures, mainly because those who
are leading men one season are apt to be low in the
list the next ; and the work is often altered and im-
proved, so it is best to let each visitor choose his
own dealer.

Botany.

The deodar or Himalayan cedar (cedrus libain var
Deodara) is the finest tree in Kashmir. It is found on
mountain ranges from 7,000 to 12,000 feet above the sea
level. It grows sometimes to a height of from 100 to
200 feet, with a girth of from 20 to 40 feet. The deodar
forests in Kashmir are very extensive. The blue pme
(pinus excelsia, Miru), yew (taxus baccata, postil), elm
(ulmus sp. and ulmus wallichiana) are also met with.
The ash (fraxinus floribrenda, hona) is largely used for
making paddles. The plane tree (platanus orientales,
chenar), probably introduced by the Moguls, grows to a
great size, is extremely beautiful, and the noblest tree
in the valley. It is met with everywhere and affords
ample shade. Poplars (populus nigra and alba safeda)
are planted in formal rows or squares. In and near

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 79

Srinagar there are large numbers of these trees, and
they attain a great height. The poplar avenue in
Srinagar is one of the sights of the city, and the grove
of poplars at the entrance of the Gures valley is
magnificent. Two kinds of willow are to be seen, and
the maple (acer sp., kamar), hazel (corylus colurna,
viritt) and hawthorn (Crataegus or yacertha, ring).
Junipers and rhododendrons grow on the mountains at
a height of ii,ooo feet, whilst in the numerous valleys,
roses, wild and cultivated, bloom in profusion. Fruit
trees grow wild in all parts of the valley — apple,
cherry, pear, quince, pomegranate, apricot, peach, plum,
mulberry, walnut, almond and hazelnut. The vine is
often found spreading over the branches of these trees,
and grapes in the season are abundant. Grafted fruit
trees, grown in Srinagar, yield excellent varieties of
peaches, pears, apples, cherries, apricots, greengages,
and plums. The jargenal pears are very luscious and
delicious. The wild strawberry, raspberry, blackberry
and currant are also met with. Vegetables are abund-
ant in Srinagar, and all kinds of English vegetables grow
in profusion. On the Dal lake there are floating
gardens where large quantities of cucumbers, water-
melons, and tomatoes are grown. These are sold very
cheaply. Several medicinal plants are found in Kashmir,
such as aconite, hyoscyamus, colchicum, belladona,
cannalis indica and podophylum, besides many plants
used in medicine by the native doctors. The singhara, the
horned water-nut or water-chestnut (trapa bispenosa)
grows in very large quantities on the Dal and the Wular
lakes. In the latter the produce is some thousands of
tons annually. The trapa bicornis is found in the

8o A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Dal : the fruit resembles the head of an ox in miniature.
These fruits ripen in October. The smghara is the food
of a great number of people. The fruit is dried and
made into flour, It is very nutritious. The stem of the
lotus called nadur is eaten fried or cooked with meat,
especially in the winter, when other vegetables cannot
be had. Mushrooms (agaricus sp.) are common. Rice
is the staple food of the Kashmiri. Maize, wheat,
barley, millet, buck wheat, tobacco, cotton, amaranth,
sesame, poppy, hops, saffron and several kinds of pulse
are grown.

Sport -in Kashmir.

.There is plenty of good shooting to be had in the
mountains surrounding the vale of Kashmir, and beyond
in the direction of Gilgit, Skardu, Ladak, Wardwan, and
Kishtwar.

Bears are found in all parts of the Kashmir State ; of
the brown or red species there are two varieties, one
inhabiting the lower ranges, the other (the hvshs avctiis)
higher up the mountains. The black bear is usually
found lower down. In " The Sportsman's Guide to
Kashmir and Ladak," by Captain Ward, of the Bengal
Staff Corps, pubHshed in 1882, it is stated that the
black bear or harput of Kashmir is steadily decreasing in
numbers. They are easily shot, and sportsmen usually
go after them. The greater number are killed in walnut
and apple trees and in maize fields. The fur is best in
November. The male is sometimes 6 feet 6 inches in
length, but usually under 6 feet ; the female is much
smaller, and the coat seldom good, In the month of
March and as late as the middle of May the skin is

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 8l

valuable, but not afterwards. The black bear is found
in the Lolab, Sindh, and Liddar valleys, and other
parts of the valley.

The brown or red bear is more difficult to shoot ;
it has a fine coat from October to the middle of May.
The same authority states that the length of this animal
averages a little over 6 feet. The places where this
animal is found, are chiefly in Gurais and Tilail, reached
from the Sindh valley from Kangan, Wangat, and
Haramuk ; and then in the direction of Dras and Zojila.
Wardwan is also recommended by Captain Ward. The
routes to these places are given in another page.

Leopards are found in nearly all parts of the Kashmir
valley. The ounce or white leopard is said to have
been seen in Tilail, but his habitat is defined by Captain
Ward to be in the Nubr.i valley, on the Leh road ; or
at Sooroo ; or the Krishye, a spot in which numerous
ibex are found. Skins of the white leopard are some-
times sold in Srinagar at from Rs. 20 to Rs. 30 each.

The bara singJia or swamp deer is found throughout
the Panjal range generally, except where it slopes to-
wards the plains. It is rarely met with before the
middle of September, but is occasionally seen in
x\ugust with fully developed horns ; the antlers are per-
fect in the month of October. The authority already
quoted states that this stag is more numerous in the
south-east, in the direction of Kishtwar, Badrawar, and
Chumba. In the valley, nullahs in the Sindh valley
should be searched ; or Bandipura, on the Wular lake,
or towards Dandwar on the Pir Panjal route ; the Liddar
valley above Eishmaken, and Naobog on the route to
Vernag. These places, and especially the Sind valley,

82 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

are recommended for winter shooting, for they have the
advantage of being near Srinagar. Stags are found in
the State preserves in the Wangat, at Khunuh near
Panpur, and at Tral.

The ibex is found in the northern parts of Kashmir.
Wardwan is a good locaHty, and at Sooroo they are
said to abound. These fine animals are also found in
every part of Kashmir where there are high and pre-
cipitous mountains, especially at Tilail. The length
of the horn varies from 45 to 50 and 52 inches. The
months of April, May and June are said to be the best'
for following ibex. In the two following months the
animal ranges far and wide, and can only be got at by
tedious and difficult climbing.

The ymal, or Himalayan chamois, is found in large
numbers on the Panjal range, and in Kishtwar.

The khakar, or barking deer, is common upon the
southern and western slopes of the Pir Panjal range.
This beautiful little animal is also often come across in
the lower valleys inside the Kashmir basin.

The mavhhov, or serpent-eater, is a species of gigantic
goat. It is found all over the Pir Panjal, beyond the
Baramulla pass, and upon the mountains between the
Jhelum and Kishenganga rivers. Captain Ward, in his
" Sportsman's guide," says that this splendid wild goat
is more difficult to get than the ibex, and that to shoot
one with horns of over 50 inches in length " is worth
many long days of really hard work."

The destruction of musk-deer is now prohibited by
the Kashmir Darbar. Owing to the valuable musk-
pouch in the abdomen of the male, it was very persis-
tently sought after by native shikaris, and the order was

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 83

necessary to prevent its entire extinction. The animal,
called the hustoorah or mis by the Kashmiris, is found
at various altitudes ranging from 6,000 to 13,000 feet.

The seryow or buz-i-kohi. and the thar, a species of
mountain goat, are found upon the Panjal range. The
serroiv is also found in Kishtwar and in the Sindh and
Liddar valleys. The horns are from 10 to 12 inches.
The thar is not common in any part of the valley except
in the Pir Panjal, Kishtwar, and Badrawar. The horns
are usually under 14 inches in length.

Wolves are numerous in the mountains. Foxes, large
and full brushed like the English animal, are plentiful.

The huvhel (ovis naJmra) is found in Ladak. The
horns average 24 inches, and a head of 27 inches is
considered to be very good. Some account of the
habitats of this animal and how it may be shot, and
also regarding the ovis amnion, the ovis vignei, and the
oonal, will be found in Captain Ward's book. Sports-
men also should not fail to consult the capital volumes
published by General Kinloch on large game shooting.

A species of marmot, called drum or pua, is found
amongst the rocks at a high elevation ; it is as large as
a fox, of a dull yellowish colour, with tawny belly, the
head, back and tail being marked with a darker stripe,
distinguishable at a considerable distance. The otter
is frequently met with in the rivers ; the porcupine is
found in Kishtwar.

The yak found in Ladak and Thibet is very difficult
to obtain ; the bull's hide with the hair in good condi-
tion is considered a better trophy than the horns. The
yak is found beyond Leh chiefly, but the distance from
the valley of Kashmir and the time and trouble in

84 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

hunting it are serious obstacles to the greater number
of visitors to Kashmir. Besides the yak there are the
following animals in Thibet. The antelope, ravine deer,
the wild ass, the lynx, wolf and wild dog. Captain Ward
has something to say about shooting all these animals.
The wild dog is found in Kashmir, in Tilail, in the
western, and a few also in the eastern, end of the valley.

Of the game birds in Kashmir, the black chikov, and
grey and snow species of partridge are met with
in many parts. The chikov (ciicabis chikov) is commonly
found in the neighbourhood of Avantipore, and the
adjacent hills ; also above Pampur, and round the
Dal lake near Srinagar, in the Liddar valley, and near
Baramulla. The varieties of pheasants are the argus,
nianal, kallich, koklas, and the snow pheasant. The
argus is met with in the hills near Thanna Mundi on
the Pir Panjal route. Quail, jacksnipe and woodcock
are found in Kashmir, but the sport is reported to be
very limited.

Waterfowl of all sorts abound in the winter months
en the Wular and other lakes. Teal are seen in the
Anchar lake, and during midwinter on Manesbal
lake. Bald-coots, moorhens, dab-chicks, terns and
grebes are constantly to be found in the autumn and
winter. The savus, or gigantic crane, is often seen
on the marshes, and a small kind of pelican.

Almost every kind of bird known in England is to
be found in the valley, blackbirds, wrens, titmice, larks,
swallows — which migrate in the winter — thrushes,
robins, chaffinches, goldfinches, linnets, etc. Sportsmen
should be careful about snakes and poisonous reptiles.
Near Sonamarg and Lar the poisonous gaus is common,

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 85

and on the hills on the Dal near Nishat Bagh the terrible
ptihur is often met with.

Fishin is a sport that few of the visitors to Kash-
mir indulge in. Mahseer is the finest fishing, and in
the valley near Sopur in the Jhelum is the best place;
some very large mahseer have been caught here. On
the Pir Panjal route, before coming to the pass, mahseer
and trout are caught in some of the rivers met with on
those marches. In the valley again another good spot
for fishing is just below Sumbal bridge, below Shadipore,
and near the canal leading to Manesbal lake. June,
July and August are the. best months for this locality.
The streams near Naobog, at the east end of the
valley, contain plenty of fish, but they are not large.
There are fish in abundance, but not large, in the
Dal lake. For sportsmen January, February and
March, if the snow is deep, are the best for stag shoot-
ing. For ibex and mafhhov from the middle of April
to the middle of June is a sure time. After the middle
of June to the middle of September there is very little
sport to be had in the lower valleys, both on account
of the heat, and because the bigger game has migrated
to inaccessible heights. The best time for bear is from
the middle of September to the middle of November.
In this last month the fur is at its best. This season
is also good for chikor shooting. In the winter, the
lakes swarm with waterfowl, but the birds are very
wary and not easy to approach.

Geology.

The old tradition that at one time the vale of Kashmir
was completely occupied by a large lake is confirmed

86 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

by the observations of modern geologists. The soil of
the lower plain of Kashmir is loam or clay, the surface
of which has been formed by deposits of river alluvium.
In the lakes now existing lacustrine deppsits are still
being made. The khavewas or plateaus, to which re-
ference has already been made, are formed of beds of
clay or sand. Drew gives the geological formation
of the khavewa at Piru near Islamabad as follows : —
Rather coarse drab or brown sand mixed

with pebbles ... ... ... 20 feet.

Fine, soft brown sand ... ... 3 ,,

Hard, very fine grained sand ... 15 ,,

Blue sandy clay ... ... ... 5 „

Fine soft sand ... ... ... 5 ,,

Coarse sand, as in the uppermost stratum 2 ,,
Similar beds lie all through a section of 250 feet.
In some parts of the valley are found hills of pala-
zoic limestone showing phenomena which distinctly
connects them with the old lake. Beds of a conglo-
merate of rounded pebbles of limestone and sand and
calcareous mud are evident. These pebble beds are
supposed to have been a single beach, formed at the
foot of a limestone cliff which encircled the lake.
Fresh water shells have also been found in the beds.
The flat tops of the kharewas are considered to have
formed the original surface of the deposits. Drew con-
siders that the level of the great lake could not have
been much less than 7,000 feet above the sea. Some
strata, consisting of beds of conglomerate, sand, and
loam, with which are mixed many species of land
and fresh water shells, with plants and minute fish
scales, are found in many places between Haripur and

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 8?

BaramuUa. The Panjal mountains are chiefly of igne-
ous origin. The hills on the south, south-eastern, and
south-western parts of the valley are composed of grey-
coloured compact limestone, containing here and there
marine fossils, with belemnites and small shells. Har-
mukh is composed of granite, but elsewhere this stone
is rarely met with. The ranges intervening between
Kashmir and the plains are generally of Sienitic rock,
slate, schist, sand-stone, and pebbly conglomerate.

As is well known, earthquakes are very common in
Kashmir, showing that volcanic action is still at work.
An earthquake which took place in 1552 A. D., proved
very disastrous, Vigne mentions an earthquake as
having taken place on the 26th June, 1828.

The great earthquake on the morning of 30th May,
1885, is one that will long be remembered in the vale
of Kashmir. At 3 o'clock on that morning a violent
shaking of the houses was felt which lasted for several
seconds. In this short time several houses in Srina-
gar fell, killing some 200 people ; the barracks on
the maidan near the Amira Kadal came down, burying
many soldiers and some 60 cavalry horses. The palace
of Sha Gharri was seriously injured, and general con-
sternation prevailed. Ihe area of the shock, as far as the
vale of Kashmir was concerned, was from Srinagar to
Baramulla, the centre being at the latter place. At
the village of Laridura, in the low hills 10 miles south
of Baramulla, large landslips occurred ; and at Pattan,
half-way between Srinagar and Baramulla, an old Bud-
dhist temple in ruins was nearly destroyed. At Sopur,
the town was nearly destroyed, and at Baramulla simi-
lar destruction was caused. The number of deaths was

88 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

officially stated at 3,390, of which 2,700 occurred be-
tween Sopur and Baramulla, including the localities al-
ready mentioned near the latter place. Besides this
loss of life, more than 6,000 houses and huts were des-
troyed, and large numbers of sheep and cattle killed,
the lower part of the houses being used by the cattle
at night. The shocks, which commenced on the 30th
May, were followed in the first hour, after the first great
shock, by 6 severe shocks, followed by 19 more, making
25 shocks in 37 hours, and for some days afterwards
they continued at the rate of 3 or 4 every 24 hours.
They gradually became less frequent, but were occa-
sionally severe, and with less frequency took place for
more than twelve months afterwards. In short, the
great earthquake of 30th May, 1885, may certainly be
regarded as one of the most severe shocks ever experi-
enced in Kashmir,

Mineralogy.

In spite of assertions to the contrary, the mineral re-
sources of Kashmir are great, though they still remain
undeveloped. Iron is found in some parts of the valley,
and at one time the State had smelting works at Shar,
a few miles east of Srinagar near Panpur, and at Sof
near Nobuk in the east end of the valley. Of the two,
the works at Sof were the most important. The
quahty of Kashmir iron is said, however, not to be very
good, Mr. Latouche considering the ore poor. Mr. Pres-
tage, of Darjeeling-Himalayan railway fame, visited
Kashmir a few years ago with the view of improving
the iron industry, but so far no steps have been
taken. It is said that veins of copper exist in some

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR, 89

places, and that they were worked in the time of the
Pathans. No coal has yet been found, though some
of Zanskar rocks resemble this substance. There are
several sulphur springs, but native sulphur is scarce.

Archaeology.

There are many ancient buildings in Kashmir.
During the time of the Hindu kings before the
Muhammadan invasion several temples were erected,
monuments were raised, and the sources of springs
enclosed and built over. The Muhammadan rulers
added further architectural structures, but the slow
hand of time or the sudden devastation of an earth-
quake have totally destroyed many and injured others.
To the historian and antiquarian the buildings still
existing are full of interest, and afford many clues to
the strange past of the country. A brief account of
some of these buildings may be interesting to the
general reader.

The Temple of Shankaracharjya, standing on the
crest of the Tukht-i-Suleiman, is a very old building.
It is built on solid rock, with an octagonal stone founda-
tion supporting a square building, and is visible from a
great distance. Within the temple there is a Shiva
Linga, Two indistinct Arabic inscriptions can still
be traced. They were probably put there long after
the temple was built. General Cunningham says of
this temple : " It is now called Shankracharjya, but the
Brahmans m the valley were unanimous in their belief
that its original name was Zishteshwara. Its erection
they ascribe to Jaloka, the son of Asoka, who reigned
about 220 B.C. The style has close affinity to the form

go A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

of the common Hindu temples of Bengal." Lieuten-
ant Cole also notices the likeness in style which he
attributes to a common origin. " In Bengal, the pedi-
ments and gables are slightly curved and much more
numerous, but in both Kashmir and Bengal the pri-
mary form was the square block surmounted by a
pyramidal roof. The mode of elaborating the plan re-
mained the same in both countries, and consisted in the
addition of one or more projections to each of the ori-
ginal four sides of the square."

Zainnlahdin's Tomb. — During the reign of Sikandar, '
who died in 1416 A.D., a large number of Hindu
buildings were desecrated and destroyed. The tombs
of Sikandar 's wife and son, Zainulabdin, were built on
the foundations and with the materials of an ancient
Hindu temple. (An interesting temple, which probably
dates from the 5th century, is to be seen in a state of
ruin, at a place between Rampor and Baramulla. It
formerly contained an image of Durga.

Temple of Martand, or the Sun. — This temple, which is
supposed to have been built by Rainaditya (480-555
A.D.), is situated about 3 miles east of Islamabad.
There are three halls in the building, called Ardha-
mandap, Antarula, and Garbha Griha. Of the ruins of
Martand, Vigne says : — " Without being able to boast
either in extent or magnificence of an approach to
equality of the Temple of the Sun at Palmyra or the
ruins of the palace at Persepolis, the Panda Koru
or Martand is not without pretensions to a locality of
scarcely inferior interest, and deserves to be ranked
with them as the leading specimen of a gigantic
style of architecture that has decayed with the religion

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. Ql

it was intended to cherish and the prosperity of a
country which it could not but adorn. In situation it
is far superior to either. Palmyra is surrounded by
an ocean of sand, and Persepolis overlooks a marsh ;
but the Temple of the Sun, or Martand, is built on a
natural platform at the foot of some of the noblest
mountains, and beneath its ken lies what is undoubtedly
the finest and most pmioucce valley in the known world.
The prospect from the green slope behind is seen to the
greatest advantage upon the approach of evening, when
the whole landscape is yet in sunshine, but about to
undergo a change ; when the broad daylight still rests
upon the snowy peaks of the Fir Panjal, but commences
a retreat before their widening shadows in the valley
beneath them. The luminous and yellow spot, in which
we recognise the foliage of the distant chinar tree, is
suddenly extinguished ; village after v-illage becomes
wrapt in comparative obscurity, and the last but bril-
liant beams of an Asiatic setting sun repose for a while
upon the grey walls that seem to have been raised on
purpose to receive rhem, and display the ruins of their
own temple in the boldest and most beautiful relief."

The following temples are supposed to have been
built by the Pandus :— (i) Banyar temple, dedicated to
Bhavani ; (2) temples at Pattan ; (3) Pandrenthan, near

Srinagar.

Ruins at Avaiitipuy.— These temples were built by
Avantivarma, between 850 and 880 A.D. Lieutenant Cole
conjectures that they were the loftiest buildings in India,

Temples at Rajdhanibal and NagbaL — There are thirteen
temples in this group of buildings. General Cunning-
ham fixes the date of their erection at 220 B.C.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR,

Besides the buildings enumerated above, there are
various other ruins to be found in different parts of the
valley. Solitary stone pillars can be seen in several
dlaces. During the Muhammadan occupation many
Hindu temples were converted into masjids.

CHAPTER IV.
SRINAGAR AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.

The city of Srinagar, seen from the river Jhelum, which
divides it into two portions, has, notwithstanding
the dilapidated state of so many of the houses, a pleas-
ing, picturesque, and even, to quote the remark of the
author of " The Abode of Snow," " a very fine appear-
ance." It has been compared to Florence. To quote
Mr. Wilson again, " as the Kashmiri has been called
the Neopolitan of the East, so his capital has been
compared to Florence, and his great river to the Arno."
The town lies for about two miles on both sides of the
Jhelum, which makes a graceful sweep through it, hav-
ing a breadth of about 88 yards and a depth of about
1 8 feet, increased by floods in the early part of the
season, or during the rains, from lo to 20 feet more.
Sometimes during the summer, owing to sudden thaws
of snow on the mountains, or unusually heavy rain, the
river will overflow its banks and flood the surrounding
country. The Jhelum is the high street of the city.
Sir Richard Temple says that " Srinagar is as much a
water-city as Venice, or even more so."

Srinagar (or Surjyanagar, " The City of the Sun,") is
stated to have been founded in A.D 59. Another
statement is that it was founded in the sixth century by
Rajah Pravarsane, but it is doubtful whether it was the
capital of Kashmir at these early periods. The ruins
of another city, which was for some time the capital,

94 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

are pointed out about five miles east of Srinagar, at
Pandritan. Srinagar has, however, been the capital
for several centuries. It is situated about midv,'ay
down the valley in latitude 30° 5' 31" north and longi-
tude 54°5i' east. TJje two portions of the town are
connected by seven bridges over the river. It is
built at an elevation of about 5,276 feet above sea
level, and is surrounded by low swampy tracts. There
are nearly 22,500 houses in the city, which contains a
population of about 118,960. The town may be said to
lie at the feet of two hills, Harri Parbat, about 500 feet
high, and Tukht-i-Suleiman, 1,000 feet high. On the
top of Harri Parbat is a fort, built by the Emperor
Akbar to overawe the inhabitants who once showed
symptoms of rebellion. The fort consists of two
squares, in one of which stands a Hindu temple. The
fort is said to have consisted originally of nothing but
strong outer walls, the buildings within being attributed
to Ata Muhammad Khan in the reign of Zaman Shah
Durani. A tower within is called after Shah Shuja-ul-
Mulk, who was at one time imprisoned there. An
armoury is to be seen, in which there are a few brass guns.
The ex- Rajah of Hunza now lives in a room within the
fort as a State prisoner. On the Kati Darwaza, the
principal gateway, is a Persian inscription stating that
the stone wall surrounding the fort was built by the
Emperor Akbar in A.D. 1590, at a cost of one crore
of rupees. The wall is three miles long, 28 feet high
and 13 feet thick, the bastions, placed at intervals of 50
yards, are 34 feet high, and loop-holed. From the excel-
lent view of Srinagar from the top of this hill, the peculiar
characteristics of the city may be easily noticed. On the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 95

southern side of the hill is the ziarut of Makdum Sahib, to
which the Muhanimadans approach with great sanctity.

The other hill, Tukht-i-Suleiman, 6,263 ^^^t above
sea level, is far more interesting than Harri Parbat.
From the summit — which is reached by a good path,
though a little steep in some places, from the village of
Drogjun at the foot, behind the Munshi Bagh — an ex-
tended view of the windings of the Jhelum and the
country beyond is obtained, as well as of the city of
Srinagar, the city canals, poplar avenue, the Dal
lake, and all the surrounding hills. The peculiar curves
in the river Jhelum inimediately below this hill are
said to have given the design for the shawl pattern
which is still adhered to as tenaciously as ever.

The building on the Tukht-i-Suleiman may be the
remains of a Buddhist temple, of which the other ruins
on the sides of the hill may have been part, but the
present temple is not considered typical of the Kash-
miri style of architecture. Its origin has been put as
far back as 200 B.C., when Asoka introduced Bud-
dhism into Kashmir. It is built in an octagonal form,
of solid masses of stone, some of them very large, and
is approached from the east by stone steps. After pass-
ing through an archway, there is a flight of limestone
steps which lead to the temple, which is circular inside,
14 feet diameter, 11 feet high, with flat roof. Four
pillars support the roof ; on the floor is a quadrangular
platform on which is a lingaiii, with a serpent coiled
round it. On one of the pillars are Persian inscrip-
tions ; one states that the lingam was placed there by
a sonar, a goldsmith, named Raji Hashti, in the year 54
of the Hindu era, about 1876 years ago ; on the same

96 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

pillar near the pavement another inscription, the date
of which is not visible, states " He who raised this
idol was Kwajah Rokm, son of Mirjan." A few years
ago the lingam was one day discovered broken. It has
since been replaced by a new one. The more correct
account of this temple is probably the following from
" Fergusson's Architecture in the Himalayas." He
writes regarding this •' anomalous building " : —

" The temple itself is far from having an ancient
look. The one most like it that I am acquainted with,
is that erected by Cheyt Sing at Ramnuggar, near
Benares, at the end of the last century. I know of no
straight-lined pyramid of a much older date than
that, and no temple with a polygonal plan combined
with a circular cell, as is the case here, that is of ancient
date. The four pillars in the cell, with the Persian
inscriptions upon them, are avowedly of the seventeenth
century. It is suggested, however, that they belong
to a repair : my conviction is, from a review of the
whole evidence, that the temple, as it now stands, was
commenced by some nameless Hindus in honour of
Siva during the tolerant reign of Jehangir, and that
the building was stopped at the date engraved on the
staircase A. H. 1069 (A. D. 1659), the first year of the
reign of the bigot Aurungzebe. It was unfinished, and
has consequently remained a ruin ever since, which may
give it an ancient look, but not such as to justify any
one putting it 1,879 years before what seems to be its
true date, as is done by General Cunningham and his
follower Lieutenant Cole." Mr. Fergusson also says
that the small temples alongside are of the same date
as this one.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 97

On the right bank of the river near the Munshi Bagh
are several nicely-built buildings, occupied by European
officials in State employ. There is a barrack here in
which quarters are sometimes available for married visi-
tors. Within the Munshi Bagh is a camping ground
and the recently-built church. Below this is the new
canal with a lock gate, leading to the Dal. A boat
will carry a visitor from the Bagh to the lake by way
of this canal. Near by is the Kashmir Subscription
Library, which has a large stock of books and English
and Indian newspapers. It is open to all who care to
pay the moderate subscjription. The visitor will next
notice the Residency, the approach to which from the
river is by a marble flight of steps ; close by, covered
with trees, is an island on which lives a solitary /rt^tV.
Visitors sometimes pitch their tents here, but it should
be remembered that during the rains the island is liable
to be covered with water. A little further down are
the bungalows occupied by the Residency vakil and
clerks and the Post Office. Near by is the office of
Messrs. Dhanjibhoy and Son. Behind these houses lies
the polo ground, at one end of which is the Residency
surgeon's bungalow. At the back of the polo ground,
between it and the Chinar Bagh, is the Samandar Bagh,
in which stand the houses occupied by the Assistant
Resident, Settlement Commissioner, Gilgit, the Trans-
port Officer, and others, as well as the Roman Catho-
lic Chapel. Below the Kotni Bagh (Residency) is the
Hari Singh Bagh, which was formerly used as a camping
ground for bachelors. The Imperial Telegraph Office
stands here. A little further on are the shops for the
sale of English goods and the office of the Punjab

gS A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Banking Corporation, Limited. Further down the river
is the Shekh Bagh, in which is the little cemetery. The
house in the centre was originally a mosque. It was
for a time used as a Residency, and later on was
occupied by the chaplain, the upper story being used as
a church. At present the Shekh Bagh contains two
houses occupied by missionaries. Below the Shekh
Bagh is the Chief Court. On the opposite side of the
river is the Lalmandi Palace, so-called because of the
colour predominating, in which is located the Meteoro-
logical Observatory. The Maharajah rarely makes use
of the palace, which is reserved for distinguished
guests and State banquets. Near by are the irrposing
buildings of the State Hospital. This hospital accommo-
dates loo in-patients and gives gratuitous medical
relief to about 250 people daily. A new wing has re-
cently been added as a memorial to the late Maharajah
Ranbir Singh. Behind the buildings is the maidan
used as a parade ground for the troops in the canton-
ment close by. Passing round the bend of the river,
the first of the seven bridges, called the Amira Kadal,
is seen. The bridge is of solid construction, and was
built quite recently, near the old Amira Kadal, which
has been demolished, as it was considered unsafe for
wheeled traffic. Below the first bridge on the left
bank of the river is the Shergarhi — a rectangular en-
closure 400 by 200 yards. It is surrounded by double,
loopholed, stone walls connected by numerous bastions
on its three land sides. On the fourth side, facing the
river, are a row of high-walled buildings of quaint
architecture. Inside the Shergarhi is a bazar, many
houses, offices, storehouses, treasury, and the Royal

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 99

Palace with the gilt temple. The new palace, which
is fast coming to a completion, is of modern design,
but attached to it are several old buildings. At the
top of the steps near the Royal Temple is kept the Visi-
tors' Book, in which callers at the palace sign their
names. The door leads to a courtyard, in the centre
of which is a recently-made pavilion, surrounded by
houses, one of which is the Durbar Hall, or Golghur.
The walls and ceilings of the Golghur are decorated
with the most gorgeous colours.

At the junction with the Jhelum of the Sonti-kol,
or apple tree canal, is a. temple. The canal leads to
the Dal or City lake, passing the Chinar Bagh on the
right. On entering the Sonti-kol, a boat has to pass
through the recently-constructed lock. A short dis-
tance up the canal is the old stone bridge, called the
Goa Kadal. A few yards further on at a bend in the
canal may be seen several of the Maharajah's boats,
moored to the bank. Here are the State workshops.
Another bend to the right reveals the Chinar Bagh,
and here the view is extremely pretty. To quote the
author of "The Abode of Snow," it "presents one of
the finest combinations of wood and water in the
world." The Chinars are referred to as " mountains of
trees, and yet beautiful in shape and colour, with their
vast masses of • foliage reflected in the calm, clear
water." Just beyond is a fine row of poplar trees, and
then another bend in the canal takes the visitor to the
gate of the Dal lake, or Dal-ke-ciarwaza. This is a
favourite place for bathing and fishing. The canal
from Munshi Bagh also joins the lake here. The gates
are only open when the water is flowing out of the

100 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

lake. As soon as the Jhelum is in flood the mass of
water stops the outward flow, and the current of the
stream being reversed, the doors close of their own
accord, and the water is prevented from flowing into
the lake ; a needful arrangement, for otherwise the
overflow that would ensue would flood the portions of
the city on the canals near the Dal.

Dal or City Lake.

The gate into the Dal lake is cut through the long
high causeway, an old structure thrown up by the
Muhammadans, and repaired and heihhtened by the
Maharajah. The object is to keep the waters of the
Jhelum under restraint during the floods. Next the
gate is the village of Drogjun, near a rocky mound,
with a tomb on the top ; nearer the mountains, on higher
ground, stands the Mission Hospital. This hospital is
the means of doing great good amongst the Kashmiris.
Funds are always required to meet the constant de-
mand for medicines, and visitors would be doing an act
of real benevolence by contributing to this hospital.

The Dal lake is a sheet of water about five miles
long and 2>^ broad, the water is sometimes quite shal-
low, the deeper parts are not more than 8 or 9 feet, but
nearly opposite the Nasim Bagh there is a small spot
where the water is about 30 or 40 feet deep. The
appearance of the Dal lake is injured by the large
overgrowth of rush grass which covers a very large
portion of the lake, and before the end of the season
is four or five feet above the water : in the centre it is
cut down and used in making chatais, which are used
either as mats or for roofs of houses and covering for

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. lOI

the boats. But the scenery on the lake is very beauti-
ful. The background of mountains, running round
the lake, with distant views of the snowy ranges, the
numerous gorges running far into the mountains, and
down which the water pours into the lovely valleys and
gardens beneath, preserving their beauty and freshness
throughout the year, combine to make as charming a
scene as the fondest lover of Nature could desire to
look upon. Mr. Lawrence says : " Perhaps in the whole
world there is no corner so pleasant as the Dal lake."
The visitor will obtain the best view on the lake by
ordering his boat to be taken up the water in a straight
line from the gate, avoiding a similar channel on the
left. After going for nearly a mile — the hill of Tukht-
i-Suleiman towering on the right the whole way, — a
broad expanse of water is entered, and the view in-
cludes the gorge in the far distance in which is the
Chishna Shahi, a beautiful spring of water ; at the spot
where it emerges from the side of the mountain the
Maharajah has erected a summer-house, a square white
building, which catches the eye as soon as this wider
expanse in the lake is reached. At the corner, imme-
diately before entering this expanse, is a spot of clear
water, called Gagribal, where formerly the most costly
Kashmir shawls were brought to be washed. Here too
a spring of water, which the boatmen declare has mar-
vellous qualities, bubbles up. Leaving this corner the
first view on the right is of one of the spurs of the
Tukht-i-Suleiman, near the top of which is the tomb of a
Muhammadan, who left behind him a great reputation
by spending profusely a lakh or two of rupees in enter-
taining the people of Srinagar with mutches and continual

16^ A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

easting on the lake. When his fortune was nearly ex-
hausted, he passed away amidst the regrets of those
whom he had munificently entertained, and was buried
at this spot. He is reported to have spent a great dea^
more than two lakhs, but as the event occurred about a
century ago, the current reports of his great wealth
are doubtless exaggerated.

The next object is a grove of fine plane trees — a
pleasant camping ground. Beyond is a village where
are located the buildings connected with the manufacture
of wine, now in charge of an Italian gentleman, who will
gladly show visitors the distillery and the huge vats
in which the wine is stored. Next is a spot known as
the Four Chinars. It was once a camping ground,
but is now private property. A little beyond a spur of
the Tebanwan mountain are the ruins of a large build-
ing called Peri Mahall, or the Fairies' Palace, which
is said to have been intended for a college, and was built
by Prince Dara Shikoh for his tutor, Mulla Shah. The
situation commands a fine view of the Dal lake.
There is a path to it up the side of the spur. The build-
ing is in terraces, on the facades of which are rooms and
niches. The intention in putting it there is not clear,
but one report states that it was intended for astrono-
mical purposes, particularly for observing the moon. It
is also said that some Muhammadans of the Stifi sect, of
rather infidel tendencies, had special objects of their
own in placing the building in the isolated spot it
occupies, a spot which must have been even more soli-
tary when it was first built.

The visitor should direct his attention to the floating
gardens here, which cover a large space. They are

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. IO3

found also in other parts of this lake. They are pre-
pared at the close or in the spring of the year by cut-
ting the rushes as near the roots as possible at low
water, so that a body of rushes, sometimes 30 or 40
yards long and two or three feet wide, will rise to the
surface, a fairly-solid mass, without roots. The tops
of the rushes are then cut off as low as possible, leaving a
bed on which earth is placed. This long bed is then
towed to a clear part of the lake, and then fixed by
long poles run through it into the mud. On it a
mossy weed, taken from the lake, is formed into clumps
placed at equal distances. On these clumps cucumbers,
tomatoes and such vegetables are grown in large quanti-
ties. Little passages running between these gardens
form lines of communication for the owners' boats.
Gardens similar to these may be seen in China.

Passing slowly across this fine piece of water,
the beautiful lotus-leaves and a variety of other
water plants are sure to attract attention, and when
the lovely lotus flowers in July, its beautiful pink and
white leaves expanded to their full size in the sun, form
a really splendid sight. But they are not so strikingly
charming as on the little lake at Manesbal, a descrip-
tion of which will be found further on. A little be-
yond is Chusma Shahi, a prominent white object at
once seen on entering the wider part of the lake.
There is a path about two miles long from the shore to
the spring. It divides the pieces of ground on which are
grown in terraces the vines from which wine is made
in the buildings already noticed. These vines were im-
ported in cuttings from France some years ago— and
siicceeded fairly well till a few years ago when the

104 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Phylloxera appeared. The present produce is very
poor. Several of the trees on the shore here are over-
grown with vines which have for many years been
climbing among their boughs, as their thick stems
prove. Near here is a mountain spur running down
almost to the water's-edge, beside which is a very pretty
village called Bren, embedded amongst the trees, a
peaceful looking spot. Here at one time lived a pious
Mussulman, who planted two plane trees high up the
mountain side. It was near these trees that he passed
his time in prayer and meditation ; beneath them
he was buried ; they are his tombstone and a lasting
memorial of his piety. Just beyond is the Nishat Bagh
with a good pleasure-house, kept in repair by the
Maharajah, who reserves the house and gardens for his
own use. The gardens were laid out by the Emperor
Jehangir. The house and paviHons were also built by
the same Emperor. This garden is arranged in terraces
the mode always adopted by the Muhammadans, with
a stream of water and numerous fountains running
through the centre. The water-channel is lined with
limestone, and the water is derived from a mountain
stream, which runs from a long distance at the foot of
the mountains, supplying the other pleasure gardens
with water. By the arrangement of these gardens in
terraces, water-falls are easily made, and they are very
effective. The final water-fall at Nishat Bagh into
the lake is over a mass of masonry 20 feet high. The
water runs through the garden for irrigation purposes,
but when permission is granted for a picnic or pleasure
party, the water is turned into the limestone channels,
the fountains play, and when the garden is lighted up

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I05

in the evening, the effect is extremely pretty. A most
enjoyable ride can be obtained over a nice road from
Munshi Bagh to Gupkar distillery and thence to Chima
Shahi and further on to Nishat Bagh through the vil-
lage of Bren. The new Visitors' Cottage Hospital is on
the road behind the Munshi Bagh.

A short distance from the Nishat Bagh is the Sona
Lanka, or Golden island, nearly opposite the village of
Bren. The beauty of the garden has long since departed,
and it is only interesting because of its connection with
Jehangir and his beautiful and accomplished wife, Nur
Jahan, to whom is probably due the credit for having
selected the lovely spots throughout the Happy Valley
where the Emperor's pleasure gardens are to be found.
The next spot to visit is the Shalimar garden (abode of
the Goddess of Love), which resembles on a smaller
scale the garden at Lahore of the same name. It is
approached by a long canal, but owing to the difficulty
of getting a boat near the garden entrance, the visitor
has often to walk a longish distance over an unattrac-
tive road. It is reported that it was in this garden that
the Emperor Jehangir enjoyed the intense delight of
making up the quarrel he had with "his Nur INIahal,
his Harem's Light." The poet Moore has immorta-
lised the scene, which he closes thus : —

And well do vanished frowns enhance
The charms of every brightened glance ;
And dearer seems each dawning smile
For having lost its light awhile ;
And happier now for all her sighs,
As on his arm her head reposes
She whispers him with laughing eyes,
•* Remember, love, the feast of roses."

I06 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

The garden is laid out in four terraces with a tank
or reservoir in the middle The further end of the
garden was given up to the Imperial ladies ; here there
is a very handsome pavilion of black marble, beautifully
carved, standing in the centre of a square reservoir
lined with marble. The garden is nearly 600 feet long
and more than 250 wide. There are some very fine plane
trees. Picnic parties here are very enjoyable, and the
return to Srinagar in the bright moonHght is a delight-
ful finish to a long day of pleasure.

" Oh ! to see it at sunset when warm o'er the lake
Its splendour at parting a summer eve throws,
Like a bride full of blushes when lingering to take
A last look at her mirror at night ere she goes." —

Moore.

Leaving Shalimar the lake is crossed to Nasim Bagh,
ot the Tepher Garden. This place is called Ragunath-
pur.

On the way not far from the shore are some buildings
erected for the purpose of manufacturing silk. The
Nasim is one of the most delightful spots on the Dal.
It was constructed by Akbar with a revetment wall, stairs
and terraces. There are avenues of chinars, and the
view of the Dal with the circling wall of mountains re-
flected in it is exquisite. Near here the rivulet, called
Telbal, enters the lake. It is a famous place of resort
of the Kashmiris, rich and poor alike, who come here
for their picnics and on festive occasions ; the shawl
weavers come here daily. The water of the Telbal is
remarkable for being very pure and very cold. The
Telbal rises in the mountain behind Shalimar Bagh.
Close by is the Char Clienar island, called also Rtipa

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 107

Lank or Silver island. In its early days this island was
doubtless a lovely spot, and enhanced the beauty of
the view from Nasim Bagh ; it is in a sadly neglected
condition now. At one time a plane tree stood at each
corner, and a stone platform was placed in the centre ;
the sides of the island were protected by masonry.
The water is very deep near the Nasim Bagh. This
garden is now only a large grove of plane trees, some
of them very fine, but several hollow with age, a de-
fect which spoils so many of the plane trees in Kash-
mir. Tents m.ay be pitched in this garden ; the view
is remarkably pretty from the shore, but the distance
from Srinagar is just far enough to be inconvenient :
visitors therefore usually camp here for only a few
days.

Proceeding a short distance further, the visitor arrives
at Hazratbal, where there is a celebrated ziarat, in
which is preserved in a conical glass phial with a silver
top a hair from the beard of the Prophet Mahommed.
A flight of steps leads up to the ziavat. Festivals are
held here during the year ; in the months of May and
August the hair in the phial is shown, and great
numbers of devout Muhammadans assembles from all
parts of the valley. From Nasim Bagh the boat may
be taken to Nagin Bagh and to the nullah which passes
through Rainawari. The State Leper Asylum and the
Kashmir Jail may be visited. At Hassanabad, which
is next reached, is a ruined mosque, once a handsome
building, as the carved limestone remains amply testify.
It is said to have been built by the Shia sect of Mu-
hammadans in the reign of Akbar. The style is the
same as that of the PattJiar masiid, on the left bank of the

I08 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Jhelum, just below the third bridge. Hindu animosity
destroyed this fine mosque when Mean Singh was
Governor of Kashmir. He ordered its destruction, and
carried away some of the limestone blocks to form the
ghat, at Basant Bagh, opposite the Maharajah's palace.

In this way the most handsome ghat on the banks of
the Jhelum was erected. There is a cemetery adjoin-
ing and a wooden mosque built by the Sunnis a few years
ago.

Further on is a three-arched stone bridge, called
Naiwidyar. On each sid*^ of the middle arch is an in-
scription in Persian. This bridge marks the com-
mencement of the causeway, four miles long, which
runs right across the Dal lake, terminating near the
Nishat Bagh. Finally, the circuit of the lake is com-
pleted at the large village of Kraliyar, where there are
some old and dilapidated ghats.

Having seen the Dal lake, the visitor will probably
wish to see more of the city of Srinagar than he could
from his boat on arrival. Instead, therefore, of going
up the canal opposite the Sher Carhi, the boat goes
straight on. To the left runs the Kutikul canal, which
passes round the western side of the city and falls into
the Jhelum again just below the sixth bridge, called the
Naya Kadal The Kutikul runs between the palaces and
Raja Sir Amar Singh's summer house which is a beauti-
ful little villa with an artistically planned garden. Two
Hindu temples and Sirdar Rup Sing's house, are con.
spicuous objects at this part of the river, and tben is
reached the second bridge, called the Habba Kadal. A
disastrous fire, which occurred here in 1892, burnt down
over 1,500 houses. After the fire a wide road was

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. lOQ

constructed through this part of the city. Just below is
another very large Hindu temple, called the Ragunath
Mandiv. Further on is the third bridge, called Fatih
Radal. On each side the river will be seen several good
native shops and residences ; a number of manufactures
may be purchased here. Shawls are manufactured at
one or two places on either side the river. The pro-
prietors are always ready to receive visitors and show
them both the loom and the hand work. A visit should
be made to one of these buildings ; it is not only interest-
ing to witness the manufacture of these beautiful
fabrics, but it is highly instructive to notice the work-
people, the sort of places in which they work, and the
condition of the streets and surroundings where they
pass the whole of their lives. On the right bank of the
river is a famous mosque called Shah Hamadan. It is
built of cedar, and is very elaborately carved ; there is a
golden ball on the top ; this finial is used on all the
mosques in Kashmir. It is described as being " a remini-
scence of a Buddhist Tee, very much altered, but still
not so very unlike some found in Nepal." The mode
in which the logs are disposed and ornamented, resem-
bles the ornamentation of the Orissan temples. It has
been considered by competent authority that the roof of
this mosque is probably very similar to that which once
covered the temple at Martand. There is a Persian
inscription inside extolling the virtues of Hamadan and
calling on the faithful to follow his example, " whence
all temporal and spiritual good can be obtained." The
following story cor.nected with Shah Hamadan is be-
lieved by the Muhammadans, and is given by Vigne in
his " Travels." — " Timur Lang was one night wandering

no A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR,

in disguise about a street of his capital (Samarkand)
and overheard an old man and his wife talking about
their near prospect of starvation, upon which he
took off an armlet, threw it to them, and departed un-
seen. A pretended sayyid,or descendant of the Prophet,
asked them how they came by the armlet, and accused
them of having stolen it. The matter was made known
to Timur, who very sagaciously decreed that the owner
must be the person who could produce the fellow arm-
let. He then displayed it in his own possession and
ordered the accuser to undergo the ordeal of hot iron.'
The latter refused, and was put to death in consequence.
Timur, moreover, put to death all the pretended say-
yids in the country. One man, named Sayyid Ali or
Shah-i-Hamadan, who really was a descendant of the
Prophet, accused Timur of impiety, told him that he
(the sayyid) would not remain in the country, and by
virtue of his sanctity was able to transport himself
through the air to Kashmir. He descended at the spot
where the mosque now stands, and told the Hindu fakir
to depart. The latter refused, upon which Shah-i-Hama-
dan said he would believe in his sanctity if he could
bring news from Heaven. The fakir, who had the care
of numerous idols, immediately despatched one of them
skywards. The sayyid with great presence of mind
immediately kicked his slipper after the messenger and
hit it with such force that it fell to the ground. He
then asked the fakir how he came to have the power of
making inanimate things move. The latter said it was
due to his charitable actions. Upon this Shah-i-Hama-
dan thought him worthy of being made a convert
to Islam. In a few days there were so many more

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. Ill

converts that two-and-a-half kharwars of Jinyus, or
sacred Brahminical threads, vi^ere delivered up by
Hindu proselytes. The converted fakir took the name
of Shekh Baba Wali, and a penance of 40 days per-
formed at his shrine is considered the ue plus ultra of the
meritorious."

Opposite this mosque, on the other side of the river,
is a very fine ruin in limestone of a noble mosque,
called the Pathar masjid, built by Nur Mahal. It is
now used as a State granary for rice. Inside, the original
design of the building may be seen, not much of it
being destroyed. The irnpression produced on looking
at this grand old ruin is similar to that produced on
seeing the ruins of some fine old abbey in England.
The purpose to which it is now put is to be regretted.

Below the fourth bridge, the Jaina Kadal, is a very
old and interesting building called Badshah. It is the
tomb of Kashmir's greatest ruler, Zein-ul-ub-din, who
was the patron of art and literature, and who introduced
the manufacture of shawls.

He succeeded, in A.D. 1416, his father, Sikander,
who was nicknamed Butshikan, or idol breaker. The
architecture of the enclosure round this tomb has led to
some discussion among the learned, bui from the ex-
perienced judgment of Fergusson it may safely be stated
that it was built at the same time as the tomb ; others
think that it belonged originally to an ancient Kashmiri
temple. This enclosure consists of a series of smal
pointed arches in rectangular frames such as are fre-
quently found in Muhammadan art, and the peculiari-
ties of the gateways and other parts are such as are
found in all contemporary Moslem art in India. The

112 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Moslems in India frequently borrowed details from
the Jains, The niches in the gateways are like those
at Martand and other places ; but, like those at Ahmeda-
bad, are without images, and the arch in brick is radia-
ting, and is certainly not a Hindu arch. The Moslems
copied the Hindus, putting foliage in place of images ;
and doubtless this enclosure was built at the same time
as the tomb it surrounds.

Not far from this tomb, but to be reached only by
passing through some streets in the town, is a very
fine and peculiarly constructed building, the Jumma
masjid. It is, perhaps, owing to its position that it
has been so frequently overlooked, but it is well worthy
of a visit, and of the attention of an artist. It is the
principal mosque in Srinagar, of wooden architecture —
a stvle which is regarded as an indication of decadence
and decreptitude. The building is constructed on the
usual plan, a courtyard surrounded by cloisters longer
and loftier on the side towards Mecca. The pillars are
of deodar. Inside, the roof of the mosque is very lofty,
and is supported by deodar pillars at least a hundred
feet high, each from a single tree, handsomely carved.
There are many deodar trees in the forests of Kash-
mir of this great height. The mosque was built by
the Emperor Shah Jehan. In the neighbourhood are
several tombs of some of the ruling families of the
Chaks, who at one time obtained the upper hand in
Kashmir, till they were succeeded by others. It may
be remarked here that similar tombs and masses of
masonry in ruins may be discovered here and there
amidst the wrecks of buildings and the squalid dwelling-
houses of the inhabitants. In the same neighbourhood

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. II3

is a rude building which, at one time, was used as a
mint. The present mint is located at Jamma.

The next place to be noticed is the Maharajgunj,
a very imposing looking range of buildings, approach-
ed by a long wide flight of steps. At the top is the en-
trance, up a short narrow street, to the Maharajgunj
bazaar, a large square, with shops of the various silver,
papier mache, and other trades. Many of the specimens
of Kashmir work in this bazaar are worth seeing ; but
the great drawback is, that visitors are so beset by the
native tradesmen who, in very broken English, solicit a
visit to their shops, that there is little inclination
to make more than one or two visits. Here also are
located the State School and Dispensary. There are
some old buildings hereabouts which might be visited ;
one of them is the Bulbul Lankor, a mosque of wood,
said to be as old as the 12th century, which would make
it one of the oldest mosques in the country.

Below the sixth bridge, on the right, is a fine private
residence, formerly occupied by the late Pandit Rajkak,
who was an influential man among the Kashmiris,
and who died in 1865. There is a Hindu temple on the
river side of the large garden in front.

Before arriving at the seventh and last bridge, called
the Suffa Kadal, there is a fine maidan, called the Id-
gah, on the right, used as a place of assembly by the
Muhammadans. At the northern end is a wooden
mosque erected in A.D. 147 1. There are some handsome
plane and other trees on this maidan, and being back-
ed by the mountains, the view is very pretty. On the
opposite side of the water is a serai, built in the form
of a square, where traders from Yarkand and Central

114 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Asia put the horses they import, themselves, and their
goods. A good Yarkand horse may occasionally be
met with here. The Suffa Kadal was built by
Saif Khan in A.D. 1664. Below this bridge is the
Guzav or Octroi post, near which is the place of exe-
cution. In Kashmir capital punishment take place in
the open, and thousands of people assemble on such
occasions.

CHAPTER V.
THE EASTERN PORTION OF KASHMIR

From Srinagar up the River Jhelum.

HAVING seen the city of Srinagar and its surround-
ings, the visitor may prepare for a trip up the
river to Islamabad, or rather to Khanbal, a mile from
that place on the right bank. On the way there he may
visit Pandritan and Pampor, marching from the latter
place to the sulphur and iron springs at Weean (three
miles inland) and visiting two or three adjacent places ;
thence again up the river to Avantipore, where there are
the ruins of a Hindu temple, and then to Khanbal.
Here the boats may be left till the marches to Bawan,
Martand and other places in the neighbourhood have
been made. Afterwards Achibal, Naobog, and Vernag—
the latter the source of the Jhelum— may be visited. The
time occupied in travel will be very pleasantly spent. The
ruins of the Hindu temples are interesting, and the
scenery, particularly about Achibal and Vernag, ex-
tremely pretty.

Starting then from the Munshi Bagh in the early
morning, the boats may be sent on to make the long
tedious passage of two or three hours round the curves
in the river to Pandritan ; the march on the road, only
three miles, will be found a pleasant morning's walk.

It is said that at one time the capital of Kashmir
was near Pandritan. Passing on, in hollow ground,
amongst trees and surrounded with water, will be seen
a very excellent example of Kashmiri architecture. The

Il6 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

temples, of which there are ruins at Pandritan, Avanti-
pore, and Martand, are all sn:all, and are copies of their
larger prototype, the ruins of which may be seen in
the Gandhara monasteries near Peshawar. In the usual
style of architecture of these miniature temples there
are four roofs, but in the built examples there have been
found hitherto only two or three, doubtless copied from
the usual wooden roofs common in Kashmir, where the
upper pyramid covers the central part of the building,
and the lower, a verandah, separated from the centre
either by walls or merely by a range of pillars. In the
stone buildings the interval between the two roofs, which
is open in the wooden, is closed. All these roofs are re-
lieved by dormer windows, that is, windows pierced
through the sloping roof; the same steep, sloping lines
are used also to cover the doorways and porches, these
being virtually a section of the main roof itself,
and evidently a copy of the same wooden construction.
The pillars which support the porticos are the most
striking peculiarity of the Kashmiri style, their shafts
being almost identical with those of the Grecian Do-
ric, and unlike anything of the same class found in
other parts of India, Generally they are only three or
four diameters in height, tapering slightly towards the
capital, and adorned with sixteen flutes rather shallower
than those of the Grecian order. Nowhere in Kashmir
are traces found of the bracket capital of the Hindus, nor
of the changes from square to octagon, or to the poly-
gon of sixteen sides, and so on. There can be no
doubt that these ^wrts^-Grecian forms were derived from
the monasteries at Gandhara before referred to. The
trefoiled arch, which is everywhere prevalent in Kash-

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. II7

mir, is a peculiarity not easy to account for, but it was,
perhaps, derived from the facades of the Chaitya halls
of the Buddhists, some examples of which may be seen
in the caves at Ajunta. As everywhere in India, archi-
tectural decoration is made up of small models of large
buildings, applied as decorative features, whenever re-
quired. It is thought probable that the trefoiled facade
may have been adopted in Kashmir as currently as the
simple horse-shoe form was throughout the Buddhist
buildings of India. All these features, however, mark a
local style differing from anything else in India, pointing
certainly to another ra-ce and another religion, which
cannot at present be traced to their source.

These are the most authoritative opinions yet pub-
lished on Kashmiri architecture, and the description
here given will be found to correspond with the appear-
ance of the ruins at Pandritan and elsewhere in Kashmir.
The temple at Pandritan still stands in water, as it al-
ways has stood. In the end of the month of June, be-
fore the rains, the water is sometimes so low that it is
not difficult to walk over the mud and take a look at the
interior, especially the roof, which is most distinctly
classical, and is ornamented in a way to command ad-
miration. There was originally perhaps a third roof,
but that has fallen ; the lower part of the building ex-
hibits all the characteristic features of the Kashmiri
style in as much perfection as any other example.

Near this ruin may be seen the lower part of a colos-
sal figure, and a huge linoani. During the time the
visitor has been looking at the ruins and getting some
idea, perhaps for the first time, of Kashmiri architec-
ture, his boats will have reached the shore at Pandritan,

Il8 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

and he may then proceed a short distance further, "to
Pundu Chakh, where are the remains of a stone bridge,
thrown across by the Moguls, one of the many substan-
tial evidences of the benefit conferred on the country
by their rule. This bridge is said to have been built
by order of the Emperor Jehangir.

After a few more hours by boat, Pampor is
reached. The distance by road from Srinagar is only
eight miles, but by water it is much longer. There is a
wooden bridge across the river here resembling those at
Srinagar. A fine mosque and a ziarat are to be seen'
in the town. At the landing place is a grove of plane
trees — a fine spot for a camp. The house on the banks
of the river is reserved for the use of the Maharajah.
From Pampor a visit may be made to Weean — a
pleasant march of three miles towards the mountains.
A few days may be agreeably spent here. Strong sul-
phurous springs flow from beneath the mountain, the
water being collected in a tank in which are a number
of fish. Being strongly impregnated with iron, the water
has many excellent medicinal qualities. The source of
these springs is called Phak Nag. There is a spring
of fresh water close by called Katish Nag. The adjoin-
ing mountains are very difi^erent in appearance from
those in other parts of the valley.

Here, and for some distance in an easterly direction,
pyrites abound in the rocks in the hill sides, a combin-
ation of sulphur with iron, copper, and other metals.
From Weean a day's excursion may be made to
Khrew, a very small village, where there is an old relic
of snake-worship in a ruin standing in water. The
building inside is circular, for the convenience of the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. II9

huge serpent, which popular superstition still believes
to inhabit the mountain close by. There are here, as
in many other places in the neighbourhood, stones that
have evidently formed part of some temple, with
figures carved on them ; they have been placed in this
and similar spots, sometimes under a tree, by the
Hindus centuries ago, and have been worshipped ever
since. At Shar, a village close by, there are some State
iron-works. Iron-works also exist at Sof, not very far
from Achibal, but on a much larger scale

Returning to Pampor, the saffron gardens should be
looked at. The plant is in appearance exactly like the
common crocus, is also perennial, is cultivated in little
square beds, flowers in October, and from the stigma,
the top of the pistil, is taken the yellow matter, which
forms the saffron. The botanical name of this plant is
Crocus sativHs. It is found nowhere else in Kashmir.

At Ladoo, a few miles from Pampor, there is another
ruined temple, similar to that at Pandritan, and at
Payech, on the opposite side of the river, six miles from
Karbarpore, rather more than half way between Pam-
por and Avantipore, is the ruin of one of the smallest,
but most excellent examples of this style of architec-
ture. Its dimensions are only 8 feet square for the
superstructure and 21 feet high including the basement ;
but with these dimensions it acquires a certain dignity
from being erected with only six stones, four for the
walls and two for the roof. It stands by itself on a
knoll, without any court or other surroundings, and
being dedicated wholly to the gods of the Hindu Pan-
theon, it certainly belongs to an age when their wor-
ship had superseded the older faiths of the valley. So

I20 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

far as is at present known, it belongs to the 13th cen-
tury, but is probably of a more modern rather than of
a more ancient date. Some writers, have fixed an early
age for parts of these old ruins, going as far back as
Asoka, B.C. 250. But though it is known that this
monarch sent missionaries to convert the inhabitants of
Kashmir to the Buddhist faith, and that in the first
century Kanishka, a Buddhist king, was an absolute
monarch in the valley, and, moreover, Hiouen Thsang,
the celebrated Chinese traveller, stayed for two years
in Kashmir, A.D. 633 and 634, to study the forms and'
writings of the Buddhists, whose creed he found one of
the dominant faiths of the people, still not a vestige is
to be found of a chaitya or a vihava ; there are mounds
which may contain stupas ; but it is considered to be
improbable that they will contain any architectural
forms which may be looked on as evidence of the great
antiquity occasionally assigned to these ruins. Finally,
it may be remarked, that before their conversion to
Buddhism, the Kashmiris were Hindus, and after
adopting Buddhism, they continually relapsed into their
old ways. In Kashmir the oldest temples, if not ex-
clusively Naga, devoted to snake-worship, show an un-
mistakable tendency in that direction, and continued to
do so till the Hindu revival in the nth century. After
that they were dedicated to Siva and Vishnu, and the
people in the valley were completely converted to the
Hindu rehgion. After that they fell under the in-
fluence of the Muhammadans, and adopted their faith
in the 14th century. It is between the fall of Bud-
dhism and the rise of Muhammadanism that all the
temples in the true Kashmiri style must be ranged.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 121

Before that there is nothing, after that only the tomb
of Zeni-ul-ud-din, and the temple on the Tukht-i-
Suleiman, in Srinagar, can be classed as examples of
the style, though the latter can hardly even claim a
title to that affiliation.

Having thus settled, as far as the opinions of the
learned in such matters may be taken, the question of
the Kashmiri style of architecture, the visitor will land
at Avantipore and look at the fine ruins there with a
more experienced eye than he might, perhaps, other-
wise have been able. Avantipore, the residence of
Avantiverma, the first king of the Utpala dynasty,
was also the capital city, and there are ruins which
show that it was an important place. Avantiverma
was a devoted follower of Siva, and reigned from A.D.
875 to 904. It was during his reign that this temple,
second only to Martand, was built. The two principal
ruins stand in courtyards of nearly the same size, about
200 feet by 170 feet. One, called Avantiswain, is sur-
rounded by pillars, like Martand, and in design and
dimension is almost Identical. The other is Astylar,
or without columns. The temple at Avantipore has
greater richness of detail than that at Martand. The
pillars are beautiful, — they have been compared with
those of the tomb of Mycene in Greece. It is affirmed
that there is nothing between Greece and Kashmir that
so nearly resembles the beautiful specimen of work
found on these pillars. In 1865 the late Bishop Cotton
caused some excavations to be made, which expose some
very interesting remains and show the design of the
building. The tributaries of the Jhelum are numerous
near its source. The largest is the Veshan, which joins

122 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

it on the left bank, a few hours after leaving Avantipore.
Veshan rises in the lake called Konsa Nag on the top
of a mountain near the Pir Panjal pass.

After passing the Veshan, the town of Bijbihara, a
corruption of Vidya Vehara, or the Temple of Wisdom,
is seen. It is built on the top of the river bank which
at this spot is unusually high. An old wooden
bridge is thrown across. There is a story told that an
old Hindu temple stood here which Sikander, the
bigoted Muhammadan king, destroyed, and used the
stones to build a mosque. To be revenged Maharajah
Golab Singh threw down the mosque, and built a
temple out of the ruins. Above the bridge are the
remains of a fine old pleasure garden laid out by the
Moguls. It occupies both sides of the river, and
though but small traces exist of it now, the plane
trees, which are remarkably fine, show where the
garden was. There are the remains, too, of a stone
bridge which connected the two gardens. There is a
Hindu temple in the town, and also a ziarat, a sacred
spot, as every ziavat is. A large hole in the town is
pointed out as the spot where the mosque stood which
Maharajah Golab Singh destroyed. In the short dis-
tance between this town and Khanabal, the river Liddar
joins the Jhelum. It flows down the Liddar valley, at
the head of v/hich is the famous mountain Amarnath,
some 16,000 feet high. On the top is a cave, a spot
sacred with the Hindus. A description of this cave is
given further on. From Bijbihara there is an alternative
route to Amarnath, joining the route from Islamabad,
at Pahalgam. The river Liddar divides into two
streams close to its junction with the Jhelum, and the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 123

two mouths, each of which is as large as the Jhelum at
this part, may be seen close to Khanbal. The Jhelum
rapidly narrows here. At Khanbal it is a very small
stream, and a little higher up it ceases to be navigable :
Khanbal is a village about one mile from Islamabad.
Coolies may be engaged here, and arrangements made
for proceeding in three or four directions. There is a
rest-house by the river side, where the accommodation is
similar to that met with at other places in the valley.
There is a wooden bridge over the river. The visitor
will receive great attention from an individual named
Lassn Kotwal, whose intiumerable and much-prized chits
may afford some amusement. Islamabad, called Anant
Nag by the Hindus, is a large town, similar as regards
its squalid appearance and dilapidated streets to Sri-
nagar. The traveller sees more of this town than he
does of Srinagar, not from choice, but because he
must pass through some of the streets. It stands at
the foot of a conical hill, which is seen from nearly
every part of the valley. Adjoining is a wide, flat
piece of land about six miles long, a huge rice-field.
The most interesting object in the town is the residence
of the Maharajah. He visits Islamabad on his way
to or returning from Srinagar. He travels by the
Banhal route, and visits the sacred spring of Bawan.
Near the palace is the Sirkari Bagh, and within it is the
Anant Nag, significant of the ancient worship of the
people. The water of the Anant Nag flows from the
foot of the mountain. At this spot is a large tank
filled with fish, which the Hindus regard as sacred ; they
feed them and never allow one to be taken. There is
also a Kashmir water-mill for grinding flour. The

124 ^ GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

stones are very massive, and large quantities of wheat
are ground. Two or three other springs here are called
Nags. Slaik Nag issues from a fissure, and is pure and
fresh. Another, Malak Nag, bubbles up in the form of a
small fountain, and is strongly sulphurous. The Maha-
rajah's garden is not kept in good order, especially
around the house set apart for the ladies of His High-
ness's household. There are several Muhammadan
mosques in Islamabad ; its productions are shawls,
saddle cloths, rugs, and cotton goods.

After leaving Islamabad, the visitor will doubtless
first march to Bawan and perhaps proceed beyond up
the Liddar valley to Amarnath ; but he will more
probably visit Martand and thence to Achibal, leaving
the ascent of Amarnath to some other time, as that is a
matter of tedious marches up a mountain and requires
special preparations. Leaving Islamabad, then the
visitor will march for Bawan, five miles. The road
after a short distance runs at the foot of the mountains
on the right, on the sides of which may be seen several
peculiar beach-like levels, as though formerly water
washed over them. It is considered that these beaches,
which may be seen elsewhere in the valley, mark the
height of the water when the entire valley was a vast
lake, and that it fell from time to time, as the water
made its way out of the valley at the western end at
BaramuUa, forming the lower beaches. The quantity of
shingle found on these beaches and in the valley just
below the mountains, is also taken as an indication of the
existence at some early period of a large body of water.

Bawan is one of the most delightful spots in
Kashmir. Here there is a grove of very large plarie

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I25

trees, so close together that to go under them is like
entering some dark building, so effectually is the light
of the sun excluded. Here tents can be pitched and a
delightful cool retreat secured. Close by is a Hindu
temple enclosing a large tank which abounds with
fish The water issues from this tank and rushes in a
cool, clear, wholesome torrent under the plane trees,
and is lost in the river below. The ground under
these trees looks as if formerly a large garden had
been laid out ; some of the stone channels for water still
remain, and stone walls which support the embankment
on which the plane trees stand.

A mile from Bawan are two curious caves, which the
natives consider to have been specially created for some
mysterious purpose. Consequently they are places of
pilgrimage. They are called Bhumjoo. The long
cave is about 40 feet up the side of the mountain,
which is a confused mass of rocks. After climbing over
some of these, an entrance is suddenly seen. A torch
brought from Bawan is lighted, and the cave is entered^
At first the passage is easy, but water drops from the
roof ; then the passage becomes narrow and low, till,
after proceeding about 200 feet further, progress is
stopped by the way being narrowed so as not to admit
any one further. In a chamber on one side, not far
from the entrance, are the bones of some devotee who
terminated his career at this spot. On looking at the
mountain from the outside of the cave, it will be
noticed that the course of the passage in the cave is
along the lower part of the mountain ; water possibly
forced a way into an aperture there may be at the
further end of the cave and made the passage ; and in

126 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

all likelihood many similar caves would be found if the
water in some of the sulphurous springs were to sudden-
ly cease running. A little further on, in the same
mountain, is a Hindu temple inside a cave. It is called
the Temple Cave. The entrance is about loo feet from
the ground, to which there is a wooden flight of stairs.
The entrance is a trefoil arch ; the interior is oval ; at
the upper end is a Hindu shrine. There is a fine view
from the top of the stairs of part of the Liddar river
and valley. There is a ziarat below the temple.

The ruins of Martand are close to Bawan, about i yi
miles distant, up a slight ascent to the top of a lovely
plain, and commanding the most charming views. As
Achibal is an easy march from Bawan, the better plan
is to visit Martand on the march, as those ruins must
be passed on the road to Achibal.

The ruins of Martand, or the Temple of the Sun, have
been pronounced by competent authority to be the
finest and most typical example of the Kashmiri style.
The position occupied, alone in its grandeur, with
neither tree nor house near, and on an elevated plateau
overlooking a large pait of the valley, is very impressive.
The temple is 60 feet long and 38 feet wide ; its height,
when complete, was 60 feet. The width of the fagade
was eked out by two wings or adjuncts, which make it
60 feet, " It thus realises the problem the Jews so
earnestly set themselves to solve, how to build a temple
with the three dimensions equal, but yet not a cube
Small, however, as the Jewish temple was, it was more
than twice as large as this one. At Jerusalem
the temple was 150 cubits, or 150 feet in length,
breadth, and height. At Martand these dimensions

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 12^

were only 60 feet. But it is one of the points of interest
in the Kashmiri temple that it reproduces, in plan
at least, the Jewish temple more nearly than any
other known temple." The above quotation is from
Fergusson's " Indian and Eastern Architecture, "and it
gives a true estimate of the Martand temple. The roof
was probably of wood, for the walls were probably not
strong enough to support a stone roof. The Buddhists
frequently used wood in the roofs of their chaitya halls,
and it is considered that wood was used when this
temple was erected.

The courtyard that surrounds and encloses the

temple, is a more remarkable object than the temple

itself. Its internal dimensions are 220 by 142 feet.

On each face is a central cell, larger and higher than

the colonnade in which it is placed. The height is 30

feet, and the pillars on each side are g feet high, not

lofty certainly, but they have a Grecian aspect which

is interesting. It is thought that the whole of the

interior of the quadrangle was originally filled with

water to a level within one foot of the bases of the

columns, and that access to the temple was gained by

a raised pathway of slabs, supported on solid blocks

at short intervals, which connected the gateway flight

of steps with that leading to the temple. The same

kind of pathway stretched right across the quadrangle

from one side doorway to the other. In Shalimar and

other gardens pathways of this sort are met with. A

constant supply of fresh water was kept up from the

river Lambadari, which was conducted alongside the

mountain for the service of the village of Sinbarotsika

close by. Other temples in Kashmir stand in water,

128 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

the object being to place them more immediately under
the protection of the Nagas or human bodies and
snake-tailed gods, who were jealously worshipped for
ages throughout Kashmir.

The time when the enclosure at Martand was erected
is believed, by some, to be during the reign of Lalita-
ditya (A.D. 725-761). General Cunningham, however,
on the strength of a passage in the " Rajtarangini/'
ascribes the building of the temple to Ranaditya, who
reigned from A.D. 578 to 594. Mr. Fergusson, never-
theless, doubts the correctness of this opinion, and
does not consider it to be clear that it is dedicated to
.the sun. He also thinks that it was probably built
about 100 years after the temple at Avantipore, about
A.D. 852 or 853, and not so long as 250 years before.

The visitor may return to Islamabad from here if he
wishes, but there is no advantage in doing so, and the
road from Achibal to Islamabad has no special attrac-
tions.

Leaving these ruins, the march to Achibal across
the plateau lies over an easy level road. The scenery
in every direction is extremely striking and pretty.
The road after a mile or so makes a sudden descent
to the valley of the river Arpal, which is crossed over
a bridge. The adjoining land is cultivated for rice,
and the path through the rice-fields is sometimes
swampy, but further on the road rises again, and
there is a charming walk to Achibal. This is one
of the prettiest places in Kashmir. There is a very
good rest-house in the barrack form, but the front
is awkwardly placed for getting a view therefrom of the
surrounding country. There are some fine plane trees

A GUir E FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I29

opposite, under which tents may be pitched, and the
village is close by. The old pleasure garden at Achibal,
which was laid out by orders of the Emperor Jehangir,
is preserved with some care by the Maharajah. The
summer-house is in good order, and the garden is en-
closed in a high wall. The water that runs through
the garden and supplies the fountains and waterfalls,
flows from beneath the mountain at the back of the
garden. At times it gurgles up from beneath with
great force ; it is one of several streams of water pro-
ceeding from beneath the same mountain, and is perhaps
the Bringh river, which disappears suddenly on the
opposite side of this mountain ; the other streams may
be seen a few hundred yards distant near the village.
The visitor will notice the beautiful belt of country
entered on at Achibal. It is adorned with several low
ranges of hills, all of which are covered with plenty of
shrubs and similar undergrowth, with numerous ravines
affording good food and shelter for bear and deer. Rich
and fertile valleys divide these low ranges from each
other, and there are many mountain streams running
through them, and more rain falls in this part of the
valley than in the more open spaces. Marching direct
from Vernag to Islamabad, the extent of these lower
ranges may be easily perceived ; they terminate a few
miles westward of Vernag, and the richness of their
valleys is in very perceptible contrast to the open
and less fertile land on the rest of the march to
Islamabad

Leaving Achibal the visitor may march to Vernag,
15 miles distant. The road runs for some miles at the
foot of a low range of hills, on which there is plenty of

130 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

good shooting, and then joins the high road from
Jammu to Islamabad, over the Banhal pass.

There is a longer route from Vernag to AchibaL The
first march is from Achibal to Naobog, 12 tniles. The
road passes through Changas, four miles from Achibal.
This place is in the valley, of which such a beautiful
view can be obtained from Achibal. Running through
is a stream which rises near the foot of the Morgan pass,
about 11,000 feet in height, over which is the road into
the Wardwan valley. The shooting in the mountains
is good. The next march is from Naodog to Kookar Nagi
12 miles. The shortest of the two roads is by the village
of Sof, between two and three miles from Kookar. Iron
is found in the surrounding mountains, and other metals
are said to exist there. Copper is reported to have been
found in State territory in the valley, but no attempt to
work it has yet been made.

On this march the valley of the Bringh river is enter-
ed about seven miles from Naobog by a bridge, near which
is the musjid of Hajee Daud Sahib, and here the road
to Kishtwar is joined. At Kookar Nag is another of the
numerous springs issuing from the mountain. Here the
water flows from several springs ; it is very cold, and is
reported to have exhilarating and health-giving pro-
perties.

The next march is from Kookav Nag to Vernag,
about 8 miles. The road ascends over the range of hills
to the village of Noroo, about two miles from Kookar
Nag. Of the two roads thence to Vernag, it is advisable
to take the longer, that being much more agreeable than
the other, which is usually used by the cooUes. Shaha-
bad, through which the longer road passes, was formerly

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I3I

a favorite residence of some of the rulers of Kashmir,
but it is now in a very reduced and dilapidated
condition.

Vevnag is very prettily situated at the foot of a
mountain covered with dense undergrowth and pines.
The Maharajah's summer-house in the garden is set
apart for visitors. It is large, and its spacious rooms
afford accommodation for many travellers at one time.
In the octagonal tank behind the house are thousands
of fish. Here also is a pleasure garden laid out by the
Emperor Jehangir, or more probably by his wife Nur
Mehal, who without doubt selected the beautiful spots
for these gardens and designed them. The Emperor
was too indolent to trouble himself about such matters.
The water flows into a huge octagonal stone tank more
than 100 feet wide and about 50 feet deep. It then
runs into the Sandrahan river, and thence to the
Bringh. Both rivers join the Jhelum a little above
the Kanbal.

The Emperor Jehangir, when dying, desired to be
carried to this spot, but he never reached it, his death
taking place at Bahramgul on the Pir Panjal route. On
a wall in the interior is the following inscription : —

*' Az Jehangir Shah Akbar Shah,
In bina sar kashid bar aflak,
Buneh akl zaft tarikash
Kansarabad u Chashmahe Vernag."

The translation runs.—" This place was raised to the
skies by Jehangir Shah Akbar Shah. Consider well,
its date is found in the words ' Palace of the fountain
of Vernag.' '

132 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

By adding up the numerical values of the letters in
the above phrase, the date 1029 A.H., or 1619 A.D.,
is arrived at.

Having seen the source of the Jhelum at Vernag, the
visitor can, if he has no objection to six more marches,
some of them tedious, and the scenery throughout the
first three being very similar to that on the last three
marches, return to Srinagar by way of Rozloo and
Shupyan ; or he can return to Islamabad, and thence,
leaving at sunset, reach Srinagar the following morning.
There is a cataract at Haribal, on the fourth march,
which ought to be visited ; but that can be easily seen
from Shupyan. A description of it will be found in
the chapter in which the marches to Srinagar by the
Pir Panjal route are given. Below are a few details of
the six marches above referred to.

Vernag to Rozloo, 8 miles. — The road runs close to the
foot of the Pir Panjal range, and is moderately level.
Rozloo valley is also at the foot of this range, and there
is plenty of pretty scenery.

Rozloo to Ban Doosav, 11 miles. — The scenery is fine
throughout ; the road enters the plains, passing through
a large village, called Saogaum, three miles further
through Pet Doosar, and finally four miles further, to
Dan Doosar, on the banks of a small stream. There is
no rest-house here.

Ban Doosav io Nohan, 11 miles. — On this march the
river Vishan is crossed ; it is a considerable stream,
and spreads out over a wide space, with a loose stony
bottom. A large village, called Koolgaum, with two
ziavats on the side of a karewah, is passed after march-
ing three miles. The road then descends and follows

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I33

the valley of the Vishan, to Nohan, a small village on
the left bank of the river.

Nohan to Shupyan, either g or i^ miles, there being two
roads. The longest road leads to the cataract at Hari-
bal. Both marches are fairly easy.

Shupyan to Srinagar, 2 marches, ii and i8 miles. —
These marches have already been described.

The Liddar is a beautiful valley with magnificent
scenery on all sides. It is traversed by the river Liddar,
which has its origin in glaciers. The river is formed
below Pahalgam by the junction of two tributaries, the
Kolahoi and Shishram Nag. The famous cave of Amar.
nath, a sacred place of Hindu pilgrimage, lies up the
Liddar. The pilgrim route passes Bawan and the
village of Aishmukam. A few miles from this village is
Ganeshbal. About two miles further on is the beautiful
spot called Pahalgam, where there is a good camping
ground. From Pahalgam the road goes to Tanin, 12
miles, altitude 10,500 feet above sea level. The path
is rough, but practicable for ponies and jhavipans. The
march from Tanin to Shishram Nag (13,000 feet) is
a stiff climb of 11 miles. Panchatarani is the same
distance, but a pass 14,000 feet above sea level has to
be crossed. The cave of Amarnath is five miles dis-
tant from Panchatarani. The cave, which lies in a
hollow of Gypsum rock, is about 50 yards long. The
width at the mouth is 50 yards, narrowing to 30 in the
centre. It is about 30 yards high. On the return
journey pilgrims descend, via Hatyartala and Astran-
marg. The traveller should make all the necessary
arrangements for supplies and coolies at Bawan. The
coolies should be engaged for the whole journey.

134

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Beyond Pahalgam the scenery is magnificent. The
stages can also be taken as follows.

Pilgrim Route from Islamabad to Amarnath.

Name of

stage.

Miles.

Remarks.

Islamabad to

Aishmu-

kam

•• '

Supplies plentiful. Road good.
On the way halt at Bawan,
two miles from Martand.

Pahalgam ...

• ■•

Supplies plentiful. Road good.

Chandanwari

...

No supplies. Road very rough.
Country uninhabited.

Shishram Nag

• •.

Road steep. No fuel.

Panchatarani

• >•

Ascent gradual. Five shallow
streams have to be crossed.

Amarnath

The famous cave, which is supposed
to be the dwelling-place of a
Shiva of ice, is reached by
ascending Bairaunath, and then
descending by a steep path.

CHAPTER VI.
WESTERN PORTION OF THE VALLEY.

From Srinagar down the River Jhelum.

LEAVING Srinagar for the western end of the
valley, many pleasant days may be spent in
visiting several places of interest on the route. There
is no difficulty to encounter, and the boats float quietly
down the stream, the boatmen occasionally plying their
chappas, but more frequently doing little or no work.
If a quicker passage is desired, the boats can be towed
from the bank. But in the summer it is delightful to
float slowly along, stopping now and then at some
shady spot on the banks for breakfast or lunch. The
usual busy scene is witnessed on either side of the
river as the boat passes under the seven bridges at
Srinagar. Cherub-hke children bathing, laughing and
playing, the mothers fetching water, and the khisties
plying up and down the stream, make a lively picture.
The dilapidated houses on each bank of the river, the
broken stairs to the water's edge, the ruins of the old
stone walls once protecting the banks, and the quaint
wooden bridges, fill up the scene, which is one of the
most remarkable and exceptional that even an experi-
enced traveller has beheld. As soon as the last bridge
is passed, the river expands into a very wide stream,
and maintains its breadth for a long way. A little
below this bridge, on the left, the Dudhganga river
falls into the Jhelum ; and about a mile further on is a
landing place whence the march to Pattan and Gulmarg

136 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

may be commenced. Servants and horses may be sent
round to this spot by a short cut. About a mile below
the last bridge on the left bank of the river is a fine
grove of poplars called Purana Chowni or Kripa
Ram's Chowni. Further down the river, on the right
bank, is a grove of chinars called Sonav Boni or the
Goldsmith's Chinars. The Maharajah usually camps
here for breakfast before his arrival at Srinagar. The
hill of Gulmarg will be pointed out by the boatmen on
the left. The round hill overlooking Manesbal lake
meets the eye all the way to Shadipore on the right,
and beyond as far as Sambai. A little beyond Sambal,
on the right, is a canal, about a mile long, which
connects the Jhelum with lake Manesbal.

Shadipore may be reached in about four hours. At
this place the river Sindh joins the Jhelum. It is a
fine, broad stream, nearly as wide as the Jhelum, and
brings down a large body of water. At the point of
junction, or perhaps, where some time ago the Sindh
river flowed into the Jhelum, is a large plane tree, the
roots carefully protected by a stone wall, in the form of
a square ; on the top is a lingam, which is an object of
worship to the Hindus. The union of the two rivers is
signihed in the name of the place Shadipore, which
means the town of marriage. Some Hindu devotees
are reported to have immolated themselves at the spot
in the river where a chinar tree stands. Similar stories
are told of immolations at the Haribal cataract, a more
probable place for the performance of this last grand
act of devotion than the chinar tree at Shadipore. The
" Rajtarangini," a history of Kashmir, which has been
called the only Indian history in existence, states, how-

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I37

ever, that the Dewan of the greatest ruler in Kashmir,
Lalitaditya, threw himself into the waters here.

From Shadipore the Sindh river may be ascended as
far as Gandarbal, whence the Sindh valley is reached.
A description of this route is given elsewhere. On the
left the Noroo canal joins the Jhelum. There is a
bridge over this canal at Shadipore. It is at this junc-
tion that the principal portion of the town stands.
The canal is the work of the Moguls. It is very useful
for the conveyance of traffic to Sopur without going
through the Wular lake, on which terrible storms of
wind frequently occur during the summer months,
when the surface of the lake is too rough for the flat-
bottomed Kashmir boats. There is a story of some ad-
venturous Sikh ruler going on the lake, accompanied by
some 300 boats, when one of these storms came on,
swamping the greater number, and endangering the
safety of the ruler himself ; many lives were lost on that
occasion. The canal avoids risks of this sort. The
water is spread out on either side this canal, which
seems really to be a pathway through immense quan-
tities of the singara plant, which grows hereabouts
and covers miles of water that otherwise would be
open. The depth of water in the canal is greater than
elsewhere.

A little below Shadipore, on the right, is a pleasure
garden, which was laid out in 1820 by Surij Bahri, a
minister of Motiram, the first Governor of Kashmir
under Ranjit Singh. The garden, which is a short
distance from the river bank, and which was kept in
very good order when Baron Hugel visited it in 1835,
is now uucaied for, and utterly neglected.

138 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

At Sambal, a small place, about two hours journey
below Shadipore, there is a bridge over the Jhelum. On
each side of the river, near the bridge, are some very
fine chinar trees. Below the bridge the fishing is
good. The camping ground is good also, and
snipe shooting can be had in the swamps near Sambal.
Not far down the broad stream, on the right, will be
seen a canal, which takes the traveller to Manesbal
lake, a really lovely spot and the most charming lake
in Kashmir. A short distance up this canal is an old,
stone bridge with a very high arch, built in that form
to be clear of the highest floods of the Jhelum, which
will sometimes rise so high as to render the passage
under the arch, lofty as it is, impossible. But the
surrounding land being covered with water, boats can
go round the bridge and make a straight passage to
the lake, the course of the canal being obliterated.
This old bridge is the work of the Moguls. One of
the stones near the low level of the water is evidently
taken from some Hindu temple. Similar stones are
met with occasionally in secluded spots in the valley.
They are often put under a big tree, and a circle made
round them. The figures thereon, which are smeared
over with red ochre, are worshipped.

Manesbal lake, which is in the form of an oblong, three
miles by one mile, is at the end of the slightly tortuous
canal. In many parts the water is over 40 feet deep.
The lake lies north-east and south-west between a low
range of hills on the right. A lofty mountain over-
shadows the further end. On the left, on the north side,
there are two or three little villages, near which the
lotus, held so sacred by the Hindus, grows in abun-

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I39

dance, covering a large piece of water, and in July
when in full flower, presenting a really lovely appear-
ance. A dozen of these really beautiful flowers
will partly fill a small kisti. Such a nosegay is very
rarely seen, and only once a year even at Manes-
bal. The lotus water-lily {Nymphcej, lotus) will also be
seen in the neighbourhood in abundance. It is a much
smaller flower, with yellow leaves. Manesbal lake was
another of those spots in the vale of Kashmir so well
selected by the Emperor Jehangir's " Light of the
Harem," the beautiful Nur Mehal, on which to erect a
pleasure house and lay out a garden. On the north
side will be seen the remains of the Badshah Bagh, or
rather of thehouse only ; the bagh is now a large rice-
field. The water that formerly ran over the water-falls
of the garden, the remains of which are visible, and
fell into the lake, now is used to irrigate the land on
which the rice is grown. At the head of the lake,
some 50 feet up the high bank, is a small grove of
chinar trees, under which is a delightful though small en-
camping ground. There is close by a house in which
lives a curious old Muhammadan fakir, who has em-
ployed part of his time during the last twenty years in
enlarging the spot he has chosen in the side of the hill
for his grave, till it is now some 50 or 60 feet long.
Around his house are several fruit trees ; in the early
summer cherries are in abundance, and later on excel-
lent peaches, famous for miles round, are gathered from
his trees. The high mountain at the head of the lake
is part of a range running up the Sindh valley, part of
which may be seen from Manesbal. Over the rounded
side of the low hill immediately on the lake, at the gap

140 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

on the eastern end, the water falls in copious streams
into the lake from the mountain springs at the top.
Below is the ruin of a Hindu temple, probably the roof,
the rest of the building being buried in the mud and
silt collected in past ages. In the village opposite
are some State lime-kilns, where lime is prepared and
sent to Srinagar for building and other purposes. Lime,
which abounds in this part of the valley, has been
taken from here ever since the days of the Moguls.
The water in the streams on the opposite side of the
lake runs white with lime mixed with it. Half-way
between Badshah and the lime-kilns the water is 40
feet deep, but it gets to 50 feet about quarter of a mile
from the shore to the west of Badshah, at the foot of
a spur running down to the edge of the lake. Altogether
Manesbal is a really delightful spot. The breeze
from the east blows gently in the morning through the
gap, and in the evening from the other end of the lake.
In the hottest time of the year Manesbal is pleasant,
and during the rains, clear, bright days with light clouds
frequently occur, when dark, heavy clouds are resting
on Gulmarg and Sonamarg, west and east, and
pouring torrents of rain day after day on those un-
happy hills. The mosquitoes at Manesbal at sunset in
the damp weather are very troublesome ; but they can
be avoided more readily than can the incessant rains
elsewhere. There is not much shade at Manesbal,
except at the head of the lake, and there space for
camping is somewhat confined. There being no rest-
house, tents must be pitched. Manesbal is a very
healthy place, entirely free from the malaria which
arises about Srinagar in July and August, and for ladies

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I4I

is a warmer and more desirable place in those months
than Gulmarg and Sonamarg, which are several degrees
colder.

Leaving Manesbal, the next object is to visit the
Wular lake, which is the largest in India, but it must
be supposed that the proper season has arrived for this
purpose, the end of September or beginning of October,
when the storms may be considered to have passed
away. Then the Wular lake presents a fine expanse
of water, backed by a range of mountains which partly
encircles the lake, and then turns abruptly to the west.
The water is said to-be i5 feet deep opposite the
hill called Shukarudin, and about 8 to 12 feet in
other places. When on the lake, it is easy to under-
stand the effect of heavy gusts of wind, for the surface
of the water in the early morning in autumn is soon
ruffled by the gentle morning breezes which continue
for an hour or two. At this time and in the cold
weather immense quantities of wild ducks and geese
will be seen, and some excellent shooting may be had,
and if a long gun be used in a boat fitted for the
purpose, the usual mode of shooting adopted by the
Kashmiris, several may be shot at one time. The
ducks are very good eating, and may be bought as
many as are required for a very small sum, five or six
for one rupee. In winter, during severe frosts, the lake
is frozen over and navigation is impossible. There is
an island, or lanka, at the entrance to the lake, where
there are some ruins, but the approach is difficult
owing to the quantity of singara plants around it.
The ruins are those of a Hindu building, not unlike
those at Martand, with two rows of trefoil arches.

142 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

There is also a brick building at the north-western
corner, and an inscription, from which it appears that
the lanha was constructed by a Muhammadan ruler,
Zinal-ab-udin, in A.D. 141 1. There are on the north
side several ruined pillars, some of which are hand-
somely carved, but on others the carving is not so
distinct. The remains of the Hindu temple would
indicate that the lanha had been in the lake long
before A.D. 141 1. It is probable that the temple
was erected at an early period on a very small island,
which the Muhammadans afterwards enlarged.

On the north-east of the Wular lake is the rising
town of Bandipore, which is the starting point for
the march to Gures, Skardu, and Gilgit. The lofty
Haramuk is two marches across the mountains from
Bandipore. Its height is 16,905 feet above sea level,
and on its summit is the small lake of Gungabal, which
is held very sacred by the Hindus. Indeed, in August,
every Kashmiri Pundit, who has lost any relatives
during the year, deposits their bones in its waters.
The marches to Skardu and Gilgit are given elsewhere.
Before leaving the Wular lake, the hill of Shukarudin
may perhaps be visited. It is plainly visible on the
western side, a very prominent spur about 700 feet
high. It may be easily ascended from the southern
side. A ziavat is on the top, in which are the remains
of Baba Shukarudin ; the view of the lake from the
summit is very complete, embracing, besides the lake,
the hills on either side, Gulmarg and an extensive
view of the valley.

Sopur is the next point of interest ; it is a dilapi-
dated place on both sides of the Jhelum, connected

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS 10 KASHMIR. I43

by a bridge, partly stone and partly wooden. This
place has been already noticed in the Murree route.
There is some excellent mahseer fishing here. Sopur
is the starting place for Gulmarg or the Lolab valley.

Fyom Sopur to Gubnarg. — This route is preferred to
any other, as it involves less fatigue, the distance
being only about i8 miles, or one day's march. There
are really two marches, one to Kontur, 13 miles, an
easy road, and the other five miles to Gulmarg. At the
village of Naupore the pony road from Baramulla is
met with, and at Kontur the footpath from that place
joins. Kontur is a village on the hill side, command-
ing a view of the Ningil valley. There is no rest-
house. From Kontur to Gulmarg the road, after
crossing a small stream several times, leads by an easy
ascent of about two miles to the foot of the mountain,
and thence to Gulmarg on the top, through Baba
Mirishi. This place contains a famous ziarat, much
frequented and venerated by Muhammadans, who
come here in large numbers once a week in the
summer. Here is buried Baba Pyoomdin, a rishi
or saint, who died some 400 years ago. The other
route to Gulmarg, which is sometimes taken, is from
Srinagar to Palhalan by boat, via Shadipore, and thence
through Baba Mirishi. There is a small rest-house
at Pattan. At Baba Mirishi there is another, but the
latter is only a large room of wood raised on brick
supports three or four feet above the ground. The
view is remarkably good and very extensive, as the
elevation is considerably above the valley, the road
for a few miles rising rapidly through the forest to
Baba Mirishi.

144 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

All the ascents of the mountain, on the top of which
is Gulmarg, are steep, but an easy road leads up from
Baba Mirishi. The sides are covered with a dense
forest which testifies to the large quantity of rain
that falls there, and the path up is frequently well
drenched with the water pouring down. At Baba
Mirishi there is less rain in July and August than at
Gulmarg ; and on that account visitors sometimes
remain at the former place, but the camping ground
is limited.

The following are the principal routes to Gulmarg : — ,

(I.) From Baramulla, vid Kontur and Baba Mirishi.
The distance is 19 miles, and the road good, though
rather steep in places. Visitors arriving in Kashmir in
the middle of the season, and intending to proceed
direct to Gulmarg, should take this route.

(2.) From Sopur, via Naupore to Kontur, and thence
vid Baba Mirishi. The distance is 23 miles.

(3.) From Srinagar by land all the way vid Magam.
The distance is covered in two marches. There is a
dilapidated rest-house at Magam, from which place
Gulmarg is 12 miles distant. The starting point for
this route may be below Srinagar at Shalateng, which
can be reached from the Munshi Bagh in two hours
by boat. From here the Baramulla-Srinagar road
is followed for a short distance, and then a winding
and fatiguing path leads to Magam.

(4.) From Srinagar by boat to Palhalan, and
thence r/a Baba Mirishi. The boat journey takes
about eight hours. From Palhalan to Gulmarg is
17 miles.

(5.) From Srinagar, vid Khandhama, 23 miles.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I45

(6) From Srinagar to Pattan by the Baramulla-
Srinagar road, and thence via Baba Mirishi.

(7) From Naushera to Gulmarg. Between Rampor
and Baramulla is a little village called Naushera, from
where there is a steep and rough path leading up to
Gulmarg.

Gulmarg is the favourite resort of visitors to Kash-
mir during the height of the summer. The season,
which begins in the middle of June, lasts for about
three months. Huts are available on the first-come-
first-served principle. Nedou's hotel has removed many
inconveniences which' formerly were experienced. It
is very comfortable and well managed. During the
season, when the Resident is at Gulmarg, a bazar is
opened, and requisites of every kind are to be found at
the Srinagar branch shops, which are also open then.
Babu Amar Nath, at Srinagar, will furnish coolies, etc.,
on application. At Gulmarg there is a race course,
cricket ground, and lawn-tennis courts. Gymkhanas
and all kinds of festivities make the short season there
a pleasant one. But for these attractions visitors
would perhaps prefer the better climate of Sonamarg,
or the bracing air and magnificent views of Gures or
Pahalgam. The climate is bracing, but the drainage
of the Marg itself is defective. Gulmarg means literally
a flowery meadow, and a veritable flowery meadow it is.
Its height above the level of the sea is about 8,500 feet.
Snow falls at the end of October, and during the winter
it lies many feet thick. A few miles from Gulmarg,
and about 2,000 feet above it, is another Marg called
Khillan. From Khillan, the mountain of Aph^rwat,
about 14,000 feet high, may be visited. A glacier on

146 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

the south-east of Khillan is also worth seeing. At
Gulmarg there are many varieties of flowers and ferns ;
some of the flowers are very beautiful ; many of them
have been copied on the papier mnche work of Kash-
mir. For rules about houses at Gulmarg, see Appendix.
As heavy rain often falls for several days and nights^
visitors should consider the propriety of passing the
wet season at Gulmarg if good house accommodation is
not available.

Vigne thus describes Gulmarg. — " A lovely spot on
the downs of the Punjal, flat, green, open, and perfumed
with wild flowers ; the snowy peaks sloping gently up-
wards from its extremities, and the valley itself extended
beneath it, whilst the scenic disposition of its woods
and glades, watered by a stream that winds through its
whole length from north-west to south-east, is so highly
picturesque, that little is wanting but a mansion and a
herd of deer to complete its resemblance to an English
park. Its length may be about one mile and a half,
and its width, which is varied, for its shape is tri-
angular, about one third of a mile at the widest part. At
the end is a bank over the stream, on which it is said
that the Emperor Jehangir and his celebrated Nur
Jehan pitched their tents when indulging in a pic-nic,
and at the furthest extremity is a steep descent through
the jungle, by a path which joins the pass named
after the village of Firuzpur, which lies at its foot.
The vast mountain of Nunga Parbat is seen to great
effect from the ascent to the Gulmarg."

Returning to Sopur from Gulmarg, the next place to
visit. is the Lolab valley, and this may be done from
Sopur, or by the river Pohra, However, the Sopur

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I47

route is the usual one. Lalpura is the principal
place in the valley, but it is hardly more than a
village. There are many small villages, all of them
prettily situated, and supplies are easily obtained.
The far-famed beauty of the Kashmiri women is
reported to be seen in some of these villages, but the
traveller may form his own opinion as to the cor-
rectness of this report. The climate is very delightful,
and the marches are easy. The most direct route is
from Sopur to Arwan, and thence to Lalpura, about 17
miles, along a level, pretty road. At Arwan are some
iron works. From Arwan the ascent is rather steep,
but from the top a full view of the lovely valley of
the Lolab is obtained.

The route to the Lolab valley by the Pohra river is
very pleasant, but the water in this river is very low at
times. It can, however, be ascended from May to Sep-
tember. The Pohra river is a few hours' delightful
journey by boat from Sopur ; the views on either side
the Jhelum are varied and charming. At the village
of Dubgao, at the junction of the Pohra with the
Jhelum, there is a beautiful grove of plane trees, and
here is the hop garden. By four tours' journey in
a boat up the Pohra, from Dubgao, Jseda Kak ka Bagh
is reached. Thence a level path of four miles leads to
Arwan. Ascending the Pohra, about 20 hours from
Dubgao by boat, is Awatkoola, a village on the left
bank ; here the stream is very strong, and some diffi-
culty is sometimes experienced in getting along. The
Lolab valley lies on the other side of the low range of
hills, which run a long distance near the river. There
is a road to Lalpura over this range, but it is steep, and

148 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

about 12 miles long. Kofwara is a village which may
be reached from here ; it is on the Lolab river, and
there is a thick forest near it, through which the road
passes.

The Lolab valley abounds with bears ; they consume
large quantities of fruit, and may be heard in the wal-
nut trees cracking the walnuts during the night. The
sound when first heard is surprising, and difficult to
find whence it comes, till the discovery of bruin at his
repast settles the question. From Lalpura the traveller
can return by Alsoo and Kewnas to Sopur, and thence
to Baramulla, if he intends to leave the valley by the
Murree route.

The Sindh Valley. — A visit to this lovely valley will
doubtless be made a separate excursion. If taken after
visiting the Lolab valley, the traveller will rejoin
his boats at Sopur, and proceed to Shadipore, and thence
ascend the river Sindh. The first place visited will be
Gandarbal, about four hours' journey by boat. Gandar-
bal is fourteen miles from Srinagar. The road runs
past the fort and through the village of Naushera.
Between these places are the ruins at Zoribal. Lake
Anchar is passed and several streams of water. One
of these streams runs a short distance underground.
At Malshabagh there are beach remains, similar to
those seen near Bawan in the Liddar valley, and which
indicate the former existence of the huge lake which
geologists consider once filled the entire valley of
Kashmir. In the summer, when there is plenty of
water in the Dal lake and in the canal, boats can pass
through the Nalla Mar canal and emerge on the
Anchar lake beyond. Across this expanse of water

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 149

the Sindh river is entered by a branch which runs into
the Anchar and thence to Gandarbal. By this route
Gandarbal may be reached in about six hours from
Srinagar.

Gandarbal is situated at the junction of a small
stream with the Sindh river. During the season there is
a great rush of water here. The remains of an old
stone bridge marks the divergence of the Sindh river
since its erection, for it stands partly away from the
main channel now. It was probably a long bridge of
perhaps ten or twelve arches. The ruins are very
massive, and the bridge, though a long one, was not very
wide. It is another monument of Mogul enterprise.
On a large maidan, about a mile from this spot, is
a charming camping ground in a grove of fine plane
trees.

In the Sindh valley the scenery comprises lofty
mountains, mostly covered with forests, stretchin^y
down to the valley, at times nearly closing it. and
again opening ; many smaller valleys join it, and down
each rushes a mountain torrent, altogether forming
the Sindh river, which at times is very powerful, bring-
ing down big trees and logs of wood. The chief
objects of interest in the Sindh valley are the Wangat
ruins and Sonamarg. To the former there is a road
across the Sindh river from Gandarbal. To Sona-
marg the first march is from Gandarbal to Kangan.
The time occupied is about five hours, and the distance
II miles. The level road runs through a wide valley.
The mountains on the south side are barren, those on
the opposite side are covered with forests and under-
growth. This is the characteristic of all the marches.

150 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR,

It will be noticed that the valley narrows as one pro-
ceeds to the head at Gagangair.

The second march — 14 miles— is from Kangan to
Gond. The mountains are more lofty, and in the
distance snow may be seen on some of the peaks. The
Sindh river is crossed twice, and its tributaries several
times. It is advisable for riders to dismount and have
their horses led across these streams.

In the third march from Gond to Gagangair — 9
miles — the road rises in some places and again falls to the
level of the river, which rushes wildly along. The valley
closes in at the end of this march. There are a few
huts which are occupied in the summer. Horses may
be engaged here for the next march, which is a very
difficult one.

The fourth and last march from Gagangair to Sona-
marg is about 10 miles, but as the path runs along the
rocky side of the mountain, the difficulties are some-
times great, the road rising and falling very suddenly.
The path passes at nearly right angles to the valley,
and the river runs in a narrow channel, the mountains
on either side coming down to its banks. The scenery
is wild and beautiful. The road passes through a forest
nearly all the way, and when the Sonamarg hill comes
in view, the mountains come down in places, like a wall,
one thousand feet, more or less. The river is then
crossed, but there is no bridge, and the ascent is made
of Sonamarg. This is not formidable. At about one
hundred feet above the river is a spot, overlooking the
river and a small village on its bank, where tents may be
conveniently pitched. This spot is sheltered from the
high winds which frequently sweep over the Marg.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I5I

The Marg is about loo feet above this spot, and can
be easily reached the day after arrival. Sonamarg
is a plain surrounded by very lofty nr.ountains; it
is 8,500 feet above sea level. This plain extends for
about two miles between the hill side and the river
bank. There is adjoining a wider tract of undulating
ground, with dells and hillocks, in and on which are
numerous wild flowers. Fir, sycamore and birch
trees are met with, and the scenery in the summer is
very beautiful. Numerous bare mountains are seen in
every direction, with huge rocks and lofty peaks, in
each of the hollows, . between which may be seen
glaciers, many stony slopes and moraines, composed of
the detritus formed at the bases and edges of glaciers.
Beneath these may be seen the birch forests, the bark
from the trees of which supplies the hhoj-piitti used in
covering the roofs of houses in Srhiagar and other
places in the valley. Being a longer distance from
Srinagar than Gulmarg, Sonamarg is not so often
visited, but it is a pleasanter place, with fine views
not to be obtained from the large hollow round, in
which the huts of Gulmarg stand rather sulkily.
There was a wooden church erected here some time ago,
but it was destroyed by fire, owing to part of the
church being used by a traveller as a stable for his
horses ; the servants lighted a fire, and the whole build-
ing was consumed. Sonamarg is on the road to Leh.
Two marches from Sonamarg is Zojila, a pass 11,300
feet above sea level.

W angat is ahout \d> miles from Gandarbal, and the
ruins are nearly two miles further. These ruins are
similar to those at Martand ; they are situated in

152 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

marshy ground ; probably there was plenty of water
there at one time, thus bearing out the conjecture that
Martand and all similar temples in Kashmir originally
were surrounded by water. The Sindh river is crossed,
and the road leads up a valley at right-angles to the
Sindh valley, in the direction of the lofty mountain
Haramuk, which is seen towering above its surround-
ings, to the height of 16,905 feet above sea level. The
largest of the lakes on the slopes of Haramuk is Gan-
gabal, a sacred lake. The ruined temples near Wangat
were doubtless built in connection with it. Gangabal is'
visited annually, in the month of August, by a large
number of Hindus, who toil up the mountain with a
holy zeal similar to that which inspires them to visit
the icy cave on the summit of Amarnath in the Liddar
valley. This lake is said to be i ^ mile long and about
250 yards wide. The ruins near Wangat are called
Rajdainbal and Nagbal. They are near each other.
From Tronkul near Gangabal there is a route to Jabel,
a famous sporting ground. There are two roads to
Gangabal from Gandarbal ; the first crosses the Sindh
river a short distance from Gandarbal, and Wangal is
reached by two marches of about nine miles each. The
road is not good, being mainly used by coolies ; the
several bridges are very rudely constructed. The
second road is also two marches. Towards the end of
the second march the road runs along the side of a
steep mountain, and is dangerous in some places. The
tirst march is from Gandarbal to Kangan ; there the
Sindh valley is left and the river Kondnai, which runs
through the valley to Wangal and beyond, is seen, and
is crossed below Wangal, which is situated on the top

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I53

of a Steep hill about 500 feet above. The view from
Wangal is varied and beautiful. The main object in
visiting Wangal is to see the ruins at Nara Nog, rather
less than five miles distant, in the midst of a dense
forest. These ruins consist of two groups of temples,
the first at Rajdainbal, nearest to Wangal ; the second
at Nagbal, just beyond the first. The first group com-
prises a large temple, 24 feet square, with a projection
on each of its four sides, and five other buildings ; the
second consists of seven buildings, the principal one, 25
feet square, with projections on each face ; there is a
tank of stone masonry^ a single mass measuring 22 feet
by 7 feet, shaped into a tank for water ; a rectangular
wall encircles the whole group. The date of these
buildings is put by Captain Cole at A.D. i ; but the
true date may be some five centuries later, the period
which is sometimes assigned to the buildings at
Martand, Pandritan, and elsewhere.

CHAPTER VJI.

Routes in the Valley of Kashmir and to Sporting
Grounds and to Places beyond.

HE following tables of routes are intended for the
use of those who may be anxious to visit the
sporting grounds in the valley and beyond ; or who may
wish to travel in the different places named. Other
routes in the valley will be found in previous chapters.

Route 1. — Srinagar to Gilgit.

No.

3
4

5
6

7
S

9
lo
II

15
i6

17
i8

19
20
21
22

Stages.

Srinagar to —

Sumbal

Bandipur

Tragbal

Zotkusu

Kazalwan
Cures
Gurikot
Kalapani

Lohinhadar

Pukarkot

Chagam

Gurikot (in Astor)

Astor or Hasora

Harcho

Mushkim

Duizan

Ramghat

Bunji

JaE^rot
Camp
Minawar
Gilgit

Total

Miles.

.*•

#••

• «•

...

....

...

II
8

3334

Remarks.

Usually by boat.

Across Rajdiangan pass,

ii,8co feet.
Cross Kishengunga river.

Alternaiive route by Burzil.
Cross Kamri pass, 13,160
feet.

A Cantonment.

Cross Hatu pass, 10,000

feet.
Here is a bridge across the

Indus.
Cross ridge.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

155

The Gilgit route beyond Gures is closed to visi tors who
have not obtained the special sanction of the Resident.

Route 2. — Alternative Route from Gures to Gilgit.

No.

7
8

9
10
1 1
12

'3
14

Stages.

Miles.

Remarks.

Srinagar to-

Gures

Bangla

Mapanum

Burzil

Camp

Das

Gudhai

Nargam

Astor

Gilgit

Total

70
II

9
12

8
12

86>^

238;^

Cross Dorkin pass, 13,500 ft.

/ioute 3.—

Srinagar to Leh.

Srinagar to—

Gandarbal

Kangan

Gund

Beyond this supplies should

be carried to Dras.

Gagangir

Sonamarg

Baltal

Malayan

Cross Zogi pass, 1 1,500 ft.

Dras

Rest-houses bad afier this

stage.

Tashgatn

Chenagund

Kargil

Shargol

Kharbu

Cross Namika La, 13,000 ft.

Lamayuru

Cross Fotu La, 13,000 feet.

Nurulla

Cross Indus.

Saspal

•7

Ninsu

Pitak

•3

Leh

Total

250

155

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

A fairly good riding path throughout, except in
•vinter, when the Zoji pass is impracticable.

From Khaisi an alternative route crosses the
plateau away from the river.

No.

Stages. i Miles.

Remarks.

15
16

17
18

Lamayuru

Khaisi

Timisgam

Tarutse

Ninsu

Leh

12
10

17
10
18

Joins usual route.

Total

Route 4. — Svinagar to Leh, vid Wavdwan.

No.

Stages.

Miles.

Remarks.

Srinagar to —

Islamabad

3
4
5

Karpur
Gooran
Camp below pass ...

13
14

Cross a low ridge.

Passing Naobog.

Cross Margan pass, 11,600

feet. Difficult in the early

summer.

Inshin

Suknes

The last village of Wardwan

Domhoi

valley.

Moskolu

Camp

Cross Bhotkol pass, 14,370
feet.

Suru

Sankho

Follow down Suru river.

13
14
23

Camp
Kargil
Leh

Total

120

Join route 3.

304

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

157

From Suru there is also a nearer path to Shargol —
a rough march of three days over a pass. This route is
impracticable for horses, excepting in the early summer.
It is at all times difficult.

Route 5. — Srinagar to Kishtwar.

No. Stages.

Miles. Remarks.

2
4

5
6

Srinagar to —

Islamabad

Sagan

Wankringi

Singhpur

Mogul Maidan

Kishtwar

Total

35
14
12
16
16
10

By land or water.

Huts below the pass.
Across the Mar Bal pass.
Down the Keshere Khol.
Cross the Marev, Ardwan,

and Chenab rivers by rope

bridges.

103

Route 6.

-Srinagar to Skardu, vid Dras.

Srinagar to —

Tashgam

Vide route 3.

Karkitchu

Villages and supplies at each
stage.

Gangani

Oltingthang

Indus runs below this.

•3

Tarkuti

Kartaksho

Road very bad in summer.
Frequent ascents. Path
occasionally built on scaf-
folding.

Tolti

Parkuta

Gel

Kepchung .\.

Skardu

Total

242

158

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

The route to Skardu by Desai is only practicable from
the 15th July to the 15th September. The country
from Gilgit to Skardu, Dras and Leh is recommended
to sportsmen. Big-game hunters also visit Chang
chenmo — 11 marches, or 122 miles from Leh, over the
Changla pass, 18,000 feet, and the Masse-Mik-La,
18,400 feet. This road never descends below 11,000
feet, and is very often 16,000 feet above sea level.

There are two routes to Simla from Srinagar, one by
Kangra and Chamba, and the other by Kulu, Chamba,
and Bhadrawar, but special passes from the Resident'
are needed before these routes can be used.

Route 7. — Srinagar to Simla, by Kangra and C hamba.

No.

Stages.

Miles.

Remarks.

Srinagar to —

Islamabad

By land. Generally by boat.

Lukbowa Nag

bhahabad

Large village. Supplies

plentiful.

Vernag

Baradati. Supplies
coolies abundant.

and

Chaon

Cross Braribal pass :
ascent and descent.

steep

Camp

Gayi

Bad road.

Bhagwan

Dada

Cross river Chandra
by rope bridge.

Bhaga

Kalen

Bhadrawar

Cross Padre pass :
ascent and very
descent.

short
steep

Camp (Mut)

or Bhadrawar to

Thannala

Langera

Thunun

IS
9

Carried over ...

Manjeri

131

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

159

No.

Stages.

Miles.

Remarks.

'4
IS

19
30

23
24

20
27
28
29
30
31

Brought forward

Bungul

Digil or Kirah

Manjeri

16 Chamba

Rareri

Chuari
Rapir
Sihanta
Rilloo (Hutli)
Kangra

Rsnital
Juaia Mukhi

Nadaon

Hamirpur

Dangah

Kunar Hati

Belaspur

Sahiki Hati

Sairi

Simla

Total

'31

1 1

9
12

'5
10

'7
16

362

Bad road.

Do.
Steep ascent, cross low pass.

Cross river Shool on

massaks.

Road bad, cross the
by bridge. Baradari.

Ravi

Cross pass, steep ascent for
5 miles.

Road bad for ponies. ■
Ditto.
Ditto.

Dak bungalow ; serai, flood
accommodation may some-
times be had at the Sessions
House, if application is
made to the Deputy Com-
missioner of the District.

Dak bungalow.
Serai. Many interesting tem-
ples : some are in ruins.

Good camping ground on
the maidan. Ttie Rajah is
very hospitable, often lend-
ing his bungalow to visitors.

Bungalow and thana.

Cross Sutlej river by ferry.

FiUngalow.
Dak bungalow.

i6o

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Route 8.—Svinagar to Simla, by Kiilii, Chamha and

Bliadvaiiiar.

No.

Stages.

Miles.

Remarks.

Srinagar to—

Rilloo (Hutli)

229

See route to Simla by
Kargra and Chamba.

Bhagsu Cant.

Cross several torrents; Dharm-
sala is just above Bhagsu.
Encamping ground and
dak bungalow. Dharmsala
is a charming little station
with many English resi-'
dents. There is a church,
assembly room, etc.

Bundleh

Putiyar is about half way
between Budlah and
Bhagsu.

Baijnath

Dak bungalow and encamp-
ing ground.

25
26

Haurbaug
Fatakal

17
10

1 Old route.

Sauri

Cross river by bridge ; ascent.

Komaud

Cross pass ; steep ascent.

Bajanra

Dak bungalow. Cross the
Bias river below Bajaora, and
the Sainij river near Larji.

Larji

Bungalow.

Manglaor (Plach) ...

Cross the Chata river.

Jeebhi or Rasala

Re-cross the Chata river and
cross a large tributary
stream.

Kot

Cross the Jalori pass.

Dularsh

Steep ascent ; cross a ridge.

Kotgarh

Cross the river Sutlej by
bridge ; very steep descent
and ascent.

Narkunda

Bungalow. Or from Kot to
Choi II, Dila 9, Narkunda
17 miles.

Matiana

Dak bungalow.

Theog

Do.

Fagu

Mahasu

Do. on new road.

Simla

Total

467

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Route 9. — Srinagar to Dalhousie.

i6i

No. ! Stages.

1
1

Miles.

Remarks.

Srinagar to —

Batoti

Assar

Kapeni

Kuteni

Bhadrawar

Thanala

Langera

Bhandal

Manjir

Chamla

Kajean

Dalhousie

12
12
12
12
12

Vide Janimu Road.

Total

127

Drew in his book gives 30 different routes to and
from various parts of Kashmir. He describes five
routes to Yarkand from Leh, two from Palaiiipore and
one from Simla. Knight in that capital story of travel,
" Where Three Empires Meet," fully describes a journey
from " Srinagar to Leh," then to the monastery of Himis,
and then to Gilgit, Hunza, and Nagar across Baltistan.
Lord Dunmore's book gives an account of his journey
to the Pamirs and onward to Central Asia. Neve's
little volume should also be consulted regarding unfre-
quented routes from and to Kashmir. In this book
will be found details of the route from Abbottabad to
Chilas, vid Khagan, and also a route to Kashmir from
Muzaffarabad, via Kishnaganga.

APPENDIX.

COINS, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.

Coins.

THE Maharajah's coins in circulation in Kashmir are
the old Kham rupee, equal to 8 annas of the
Indian rupee, and the chilki — the latest issue of silver
coins, and now only issued — equal to lo annas of the
Indian rupee ; 8 pieces of copper make up one anna of the
Maharajah's coin, equal to 12 pies or 4 pice of the Indian
anna. The Kham rupee, called the kohna or old coin,
and the chilki, called the netui or new coin, are both
marked with the letters J. H. S. Some sort of mystery
seems to hang over the placing of these letters on the
Kashmir coins, and which Englishmen take to be the
Christian monogram ; but, so far as the unauthenticated
history of these coins is concerned, the reason for hav-
ing these letters on them may be found in the following
story.

When Ranjit Singh was ruler of Kashmir, there was
a silver coin called Nanak Shah, after the founder of
the Seikh religion, and the value of this coin was equal
to 16 annas. This was found to be inconveniently large,
mainly owing to the slender means of the people
amongst whom it circulated. Accordingly the Kham
rupee, of 8 annas only, was introduced ; but before this
was done, the Nanak Shah coin had been issued from
the Mint, which then existed in Srinagar, of less intrin-
sic value than formerly, or than it ought to have been.
When this was discovered, the Master of the Mint was

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 163

held to be responsible, and as a punishment, both his
ears were cut off. After the annexation of the Punjab,
between the years 1853 and 1859, when Sir John Law-
rence was Chief Commissioner of the Punjab, in certain
negotiations with the Maharajah of Kashmir, Sir John
Lawrence made some objections to the silver coins in
circulation in His Highness' dominions. In order to
conform to the Chief Commissioner's wishes for some
change, the three letters J. H. S. were stamped on the
coins. The meaning of this monogram may be, there-
fore, the representation of the three words Jammu,
Highness, Singh ; or, more fully, His Highness (Golab)
Singh. Sir John Lawrence was pleased with this, and
His Highness was equally gratified, and thus the wishes
of two important persons were complied with.

The Indian rupee and the smaller silver coins and
copper money are commonly used in preference to the
Maharajah's coins. Government of India currency
notes and bank cheques are easily cashed during the
season.

Weights.

The following weights are in common use in
Kashmir : —

I Kham rupee = nearly i tola of 1054 Mashas. (In
British India i tola =12 Mashas.) The Masha=i5
grains troy. ^

4^ Kham rupees = i Chatak.

4 Chataks =1 Pauwa or 9 Kham rupees.

4 Pauwas = I Seer or 76 Kham rupees.

6 Seers = i Trak of 486 Kham rupees.

16 Traks =1 Kharwar.

164 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

With the Government of Kashmir 15 Traks are equal
to I Kharwar, Shali and produce taken in payment of
revenue are paid at this rate. The man, which in the
Punjab is 40 seers, is in Kashmir 45 seers, and the
Kashmir Kharwar is equal to 2 mans of 45 seers each.

Measures.

Woollen and other goods sold to visitors are measured
by the English yard of 36 inches, but the Kashmir
yard contains 41 inches. The gimh or girth, frequent-
ly mentioned by dealers, is made up of three finger
breadths, and iS girahs are equal to i gaz or yard. In
British India 16 girahs make i gaz, and is equal to
2^ inches. In Kashmir it is equal to 2^ inches.

II.

List of Post and Telegraph Offices in Kashmir and Jammv.

Post Offices.

In Kashmir — In Jammu —

Srinagar. Jammu.

Bargam. Aknur.

Bijbehara. Arnia.

Dras. Basoli

Magam Chomak.

Mulshabag. Dansal.

Nehalpore. Homerpur Sidhar.

Palwama. Kahna Chak.

Sonamarg. Mirpore.

Avantipore. Munwar.

Gures. Ramgarh.

Minimarg. Ranbir Singhpore.

A GUtDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

ib5

Bandipore.

Satwari.

Baramulla.

Tawi.

Handwara.

Bhimber.

Sopore.

Katna.

Gulmarg.

Jasrota.

Islamabad.

Prol.

Kullgam.

Naushera.

Shupyan.

Kotli.

Vernag.

Prat.

Kargil.

Rajaun.

Leh.

Serai.

Skardu.

Thana.

Chakoti.

Saula.

Domel.

Jasmergarh

Garhi.

Udampore.

Hattian.

Banhal.

Muzuffnalas.

Batout.

Rampor.

Bhadrawar

Uri

Paddar.

Karnah.

Ramluri.

Ramnagur.

Reasi.

Imperial Tele

graph Offices.

Gilgit.

Srinagar.

Bunji.

Sopore.

Chilas.

Baramulla.

Astor.

Rampor.

Minimarg.

Uri.

Gures.

Garhi.

Bandipore.

Domel.

State Teleg

RAPH Offices.

Sonamarg.

Ramban.

Dras.

Udairpore.

Kargil.

Botul.

Skardu.

Jammu.

Islamabad.

Naushera.

Vernasr.

Tawi

Banhal.

l66 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

III.

Game Laws for Ladakh, Skardu, and Baltistan.

It has been observed that the coolies and shikaris of
Kashmir engaged by European visitors and taken
up to Skardu and Ladakh often use violence to the
people and create trouble by non-payment for the sup-
plies and carriage obtained from the villagers. In the
hope of preventing complaints arising from this cause,
the following rules have been framed and passed by the
State Council : —

(I) The local officers shall open a register of all'
shikaris residing in Ladakh who are known to be com-
petent and willing to accompany visitors in search of
game. Many excellent men are to be found among the
Ladakhis, and gentlemen desirous of shooting in
Ladakh are advised, if possible, to employ Ladakhi
shikaris, in place of men from Kashmir.

(II) To facilitate the engagement of Ladakhi shika-
ris, copies of the register referred to in rule (I) will be
supplied to and circulated among visitors in Srinagar
by Babu Amar Nath, who will be able to give the
necessary information as to where, and how, any shikaii
selected for employment can be engaged.

(III) Officers who nevertheless wish to employ
Kashmiri shikaris in Ladakh should, before starting,
register, with the Assistant Resident in Kashmir, Sri-
nagar, the names of their shikari and of his chota shikari,
stating also the shikaris' fathers' names, residence and
the district, and, if possible, the nullah in which it is pro-
posed to shoot. This information is necessary in order
that the names of Kashmiri shikaris, going to Ladakh,
may be known and notice taken of misconduct.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 167

(IV) Copies of the register kept by the Assistant
Resident in Kashmir under rule (III) will be sent to
the Assistant Resident for Leh and to the Governor in
Kashmir, and in the event of any misconduct being
proved against any shikari permitted to go to Ladakh,
his name will be noted and permission to go to Ladakh
in future will be withheld.

(V) In order to prevent inconvenience to officers
wishing to travel to Ladakh direct from Baramulla, the
information required by rule (III) may be given to the
Assistant Resident by letter, or shikaris who have been
actually engaged beforehand, by officers in India, may
themselves register their names with the Assistant
Resident in Srinagar before joining their employers.
It should be clearly understood that any Kashmiri
shikari employed in Ladakh, whose name has not been
registered, will be liable to the punishment mentioned
in rule (IV).

(Sd.) H. S. BARNES,

Resident in Kashmir.

Kashmir Residen'cy : )

Dated Sialkot, the lOih March, 1895.

IV.

Tax on Boats.

An annual tax is levied on all boats owned and em-
ployed in the valley of Kashmir, according to the follovy-

1 68

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

ing schedule ; the tax is payable by the owner and not
by the occupier of the boat.

Rs. A. P

House boat, ist class
Do. and class
Do. 3rd class
Doonga or large Kashmiri living boat, ist class
Do. do. and class

Do. do. 3rd class

Do. do. 4th class

SAtkari or stnaW Kashmiri boat, per shikari
Boats used for shali, bhoosa and wood, ist class
Do. do. and class

Khachu boats used for stones, lime, earth, &c.

■• 7

- 5

• • 4

•• 3

.. I

. a

.. I

V.
Rules for Traders in Kashmir.
(i). No trader shall attempt to approach or enter
into a boat occupied by a visitor while the boat is pass-
ing on the river.

(2). Nor shall he enter into a boat, or tent or house
occupied by a visitor without permission obtained by
sending his card. If told to do so, he must leave the
place at once.

(3). No hawking is allowed in places other than
those appointed.

(4). Traders should not send their cards immediately
on arrival of a visitor, nor should they molest visitors
when they are at meals or otherwise engaged,

(5) Making noise is not allowed near tents, houses
or boats occupied by visitors.

(6). If prohibited by a police constable or a servant,
no trader shall go close to a tent or boat or house occu-
pied by a visitor.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 169

VI.

Rules for Observance by Visitors and Residents in the Terpi-
tories of H. H. the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir.

9*6

Government of India.

FOREIGN DEPARTMENT.

NOTIFICATION.

No. 85 E.

Fort William, the i^th January, i888.

In supersession of the Notification of the Govern-

. ment of India in the Foreign

•Not e. —Copies of^-. ^ ^xi c t^j..j

these Rules can be Ob. Department, No. 679 F., dated

tained from the Resident the 28th April, 1885, the follow-
in Kashmir.

ing revised Rules,* for observance

by all Europeans, Americans and Australians, who are
now, or may be hereafter, in the territory of His
Highness the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir, which
have been drawn up with the consent of His Highness
the Maharajah, and have received the sanction of the
Governor-General in Council, are published for infor-
mation : —

I. — (i) Military or Civil Officers of the British
Government may, at any time, and without passes, visit
and resi.de in the territories of His Highness the Ma-
harajah of Jammu and Kashmir,

tAt present there is no subject to such Hmitf in number
limit. ■'

as the Government of India,

with the concurrence of His Highness the Maharajah,

may prescribe, and subject also, in the case of Military

Officers, to the military regulations or orders for the

time being in force.

170 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

(2) Other Europeans, Americans or Australians,
wishing to visit or reside in the said territories, require
passes, which may be granted (in the Form A annexed)
by the Resident in Kashmir,

II. — Information as to the usual routes for entering
and leaving Kashmir may be obtained from the Assis-
tant Resident. The route vid Jammu and Banhal is
private, and may not be used except with the special
permission of His Highness the Maharajah obtained
through the Resident.

III. — Persons subject to these rules are not allowed
to travel from Kashmir to Simla (or vice versd) across
the hills, or the plains (or vice versa), vid Kishtwar, Bha-
drawar and Chamba, except with the special permission
of His Highness the Maharajah obtained through the

Resident.

IV. — No request should be preferred to the ordinary
officials of His Highness the Maharajah, except in real
emergencies. An officer of the Darbar is appointed by
His Highness the Maharajah to attend to the wants of
the European community at Srinagar, and application
may be made to him for assistance in petty matters.
All payments must be made at the rates demanded,
which, if deemed exorbitant, can be reported to the
Resident in Kashmir.

V. — Complaints should be preferred, with statements
of the circumstances, to the Resident in Kashmir.

VI. — No present may be accepted from His High-
ness the Maharajah or his officers.

VII. — Persons subject to these rules, who may be
desirous of paying their respects to His Highness the
Maharajah, can be introduced by the Resident on suit-

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 17I

able occasions ; and all arrangements for ofBcial visits to
Jammu or Srinagar should be made through the Resident.
VIII. — The customs and regulations of His Highness
the Maharajah's Territory should be carefully observed
by persons subject to these rules, and by their servants.
IX. — When attending evening entertainments given
by His Highness the Maharajah, Military Officers should
wear, subject to the military regulations or orders for
the time being in force, either uniform or evening dress,
and other visitors or residents should wear evening dress.
X. — The Resident may, from time to time, with the
concurrence of His Highness the Maharajah, prescribe
limits of travel, beyond which no one will be allowed
to go, unless supplied with a special pass obtained from
the Resident.

XI. — Rules may, from time to time, be made by the
Resident, with the concurrence of His Highness the
Maharajah, regarding the routes for entering, leaving
and travelling in Kashmir, the rates to be paid for
coolies, transport, supplies and other minor matters.

XII. — The Resident in Kashmir is authorised to
require any person subject to these rules, who breaks
any of them, to leave the territories of His Highness
the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir. If any such
requisitions on the part of the Resident is not at once
complied with, the matter will be reported by him for
the orders of the Governor-General in Council.

Form A.

Pass No. of i8g .

of is permitted to travel j in the territories

or reside / of His Highness

172 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir from the

to the i8g , subject to the conditions noted on

the back of this pass.

This pass may be cancelled or withdrawn at any
time, and it requires renewal at the end of the period
for which it is current.

Endorsement on Reverse of Pass.

I agree to conform to the rules prescribed by the
Government of India for observance by Europeans,
Americans and Australians in the territories of His
Highness the Maharajah of jammu and Kashmir.
I will return this pass to the Office of the Resident in
Kashmir at the end of the period for which it is
current.

General Rules.

1. All visitors to Srinagar are requested to commu-
nicate their names and dates of arrival to the Darbar
official deputed to attend on European visitors. The
official for the time being is Rai Sahib Amar Nath.

2. Visitors are advised, in their own interests, to
procure such Kashmiri servants as they may require,
specially boatmen and shikaris, through Rai Sahib
Amar Nath, and not through local bankers.

3. Visitors to Srinagar are not permitted to encamp
in the Dilawar Khan Bagh situated within the city, nor
in the Nishat, Shalimar or Chashmah Shahi gardens on
the Dal Lake. The fixed camping places are the
Munshi, Hari Singh, Ram Munshi and Chinar Baghs
at Srinagar, and the Nasim Bagh on the Dal lake.
Visitors are also informed that the plot of ground at

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I73

Sumbal, known as the " Nandi Keshwar Bhairava,"
should not be used for camping purposes.

4. Visitors wishing to visit the Fort or Palace at
Srinagar are required to give at least one full day's
notice of their intention to the Rai Sahib deputed to
attend on European visitors.

5. Cows and bullocks are, under no circumstances,
to be slain in the territories of His Highness the
Maharajah, and visitors are requested to take precau-
tions that their dogs do not worry these animals.

6. Visitors about to proceed into the interior and
wishing to be supplied with carriage, are requested to
communicate with the Rai Sahib, at least 30 hours be-
fore the time fixed for iheir departure. Failing this
notice, the Rai Sahib cannot be responsible for the
supply of carriage in proper time.

7. Travellers in the interior should not encamp
within villages. They are advised to encamp only at
the ordinary stages and camping-grounds ; supplies are
not usually available in any other place.

8. Persons going on shooting excursions are required
to take carriage and supplies with them. They may
not demand them in places where no provision is made
for supplying them, and they are forbidden to press
into their service the people of the country as beaters
for game.

9. Visitors to the Skardu district are informed that
the route, vid the Deosai plains, from Skardu to Bandi-
pore, is reserved, and passes to use the same will only
be issued to a few visitors by the Kashmir Darbar
througn the Residency, ani under the conditions that
those, to whom such passes are given, will be prepared

174 ^ GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

to pay double the rates for carriage and coolie transport
now in force on that route in cases in which it is
necessary to make local arrangements for transport and
supplies. Visitors are also informed that when visiting
the Skardu district, they should make their own
arrangements for transport, as the local officials of the
Kashmir Darbar will not be bound to meet their
requisitions for transport.

9 {a). Visitors are also informed that no sup-
plies, except wood and grass, are obtainable, nor
should they be requisitioned at the village of
Tolti in the Skardu district on the Dras-Skardu

route.

10. Visitors are not permitted to shoot in the tract
of country extending along the lake from the Tukht-i-
Suleiman to the Shalimar gardens, or anywhere in the
hills between the Sindh and Lidar rivers, or in the
Wangat valley, or any nullah thereof, all which are

preserves of His Highness the

Dopatta, Kukiawala, Maharajah. Shooting on the
Machipura, Danuachi- • ,, j ,• r,

kar, Uri, Banyar and in tracts margmally noted, which
the territory of the Rajah private property, is also

of Kharmong in Baltis- t' tr tr j ^

tan without the permis- prohibited ; and no one should

sion of the Rajah. , ^ i • t j. •

shoot anywhere m Jammu terri-
tory without a pavwdna obtained from the Darbar
through the Resident.

The attention of sportsmen is invited to notifications
issued by the State Council for the preservation of
game in Kashmir published at pages 177 to 179 of this

book.

11. Visitors are prohibited from shooting heron in

Kashmir.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I75

12. Fishing is prohibited at the places marginally

., , ,^ noted, as also between the first

Martund, V e r n a g ,

Anantnag, Devi Khir- and third bridge in Srinagar and

in the Jammu Province, unless
a parrcdna has been previously obtained from the
Darbar through the Resident.

13. Visitors are not allowed to encamp in the
gardens and pavilion at Achhabal, which are the
private property of His Highness the Maharajah, nor
are their servants allowed to make cooking-places there.

14. When the Dal gate is closed, no attempt should
be made to remove the barrier or to lift boats over the
bund to or from the lake.

15. Application for houses or for quarters in the
barracks at Srinagar should be made to the State
Engineer, Kashmir Darbar, Srinagar.

16. A visitor may not sub-let his house or quarters,
and no visitof may rent more than one set of quarters,
except with special permission.

17. Rent must be paid on demand, or in advance,
when required, to the State Engineer, Kashmir Darbar,

18. When attending evening entertainments given
by His Highness the Maharajah in honor of Her
Majesty the Queen-Empress, Military Officers should
appear in Mess uniform.

19. Visitors are particularly requested to be careful
that their servants do not import into the valley articles
for sale, on which duty is leviable. The baggage of
visitors is not examined by the Maharajah's Customs
officials, and, in return for this courtesy, it is expected
that any evasion of the Customs Regulations will be
discountenanced.

176 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Subject to this provision, and with effect from nth
April, 1897, Customs duty according to the tariff in
force in the State will be charged on all goods imported
by both visitors to, and residents in Kashmir.

20. Servants of visitors found in the city after dark, and
any servant found without a light after the evening gun
has fired, will be Hable to be apprehended by the police.

21. Servants of visitors found resorting for purposes
of nature to places other than the fixed latrines are
liable to punishment.

22. Grass-cutters are prohibited from cutting grass
in, or in the neighbourhood of, the gardens occupied
by European visitors.

23. All persons are required to settle all accounts
before they leave Kashmir, and are responsible that
the debts of their servants are similarly discharged.

24. Complaints of the nature of civil suits against
subjects of His Highness the Maharajah can only be
taken cognizance of by the State Courts, and against all
British Indian subjects who are visitors to Kashmir, by
the Court of the Assistant Resident on payment of the
usual Court fees.

25. Visitors are reminded that the forests in the
Jammu and Kashmir State are in charge of the State
Forest Department, and that no trees may be felled
without permission, and payment of the price.

Application for trees and for permission to cut them
should be made to the Conservator of Forests, Srinagar,
or to the nearest Forester.

26. A dairy has been estabhshed, under State
supervision, behind Doctor Neve's Hospital. Milk can
be obtained there twice a day at the tates in the

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 1 77

" Nirakhnamah," which is posted at the Library, or is
obtainable from Rai Sahib Amar Nath, the Darbar
official deputed to attend on visitors.

Visitors should send their own cans for milk, and
they are reminded that the Kashmiri seer is less by
about 2 chittacks than the Indian seer.

27. Visitors to Gulmarg are requested to kindly
warn their grass-cutters not to encroach on the culti-
vated parts of villages.

Grass can always be cut from the Tang Marg.

28. The attention of visitors is called to the special
notices printed at page's ig6 to 205.

Jammu.

29. Visitors to Jammu are informed that permission
to visit the town and to occupy rooms in the State
Travellers' Bungalow must be obtained from the Assis-
tant Resident in Kashmir, who will issue passes to
approved persons on receipt of application.

This rule does not apply to Officers of Her Majesty's
Service in Civil and Military employment.

30. These rules will be revised and new rules added,
from time to time, as circumstances may require. Any
doubt as to the meaning of any rule will be decided
by the Resident.

NOTIFICATION.

No. 232, dated 21st April, 1896.
Game Laws of Jammu and Kashmir State.
The following rules for the preservation of game are
published for general information : —

I. Driving game with men and dogs in Kashmir,
including Gilgit, Ladakh and Skardu, is prohibited,

178 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR

except in the case of Bears, Leopards and Pigs, driving
and beating for which is allowed between 15th May
and 15th October, but not at other times of the year.
The destruction of all females of the following animals :
Barasingha, Ovis Ammon, Yak, Shahpoo, (Oorial) or
Burhel, Markhor, Ibex, Thibetan Antelope, Thibetan
Ravine Deer, and Serow, is absolutely prohibited in
Kashmir. No Musk Deer, either male or female, are
to be shot or taken.

2. The sale in Kashmir of the home and skins of
any of the animals mentioned in Rule i, excepting the
skins of Bears and Leopards, is prohibited.

3. The breeding season of Pheasant, Chikor, and
Partridge extends from 15th March to 15th September,
inclusive, in each year.

During the breeding season, as above defined, the
shooting of any of the birds above-mentioned, their
destruction by nets or in any other fashion, or the
taking of their eggs, is absolutely prohibited. During
the breeding season no person shall sell in Kashmir
any such bird recently killed or taken.

4. During the shooting season, i.e., from i6th
September to 14th March, the netting, trapping and
ensnaring of the above-mentioned birds is also prohi-
bited.

5. Whoever intentionally commits a breach of
Rules I and 2 shall be punished on first conviction by a
fine not exceeding Rs. 25, or with imprisonment for a
term not exceeding one month, or both ; and on second
conviction, by a fine not exceeding Rs. 100, or with
imprisonment not exceeding four months, or both,
together with forfeiture of the guns or other weapons

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 179

and dogs of the offender to the State, and if the offender
is a shikari, with forfeiture of hcense for one year ;
provided that, when the offender is a European, or the
servant of a European, the case shall be immediately
reported to the Resident for disposal in such manner
as he may think fit.

6. Subject to the same proviso, any person convicted
of a breach of Rules 3 and 4 shall be punished by a
fine not exceeding in each case Rs. 25.

7. His Highness the Maharajah may, by order in
writing, relax any or all of the foregoing rules in
favour of any person.

AMAR SINGH, RAJA,
Vice-President of the Jammti and Kashmir

State Council,
Countersigned —

A. C. TALBOT,

Resident in Kashmir.

PUBLIC WORKS DEPARTMENT.

Jammu and Kashmir State.

Rules for /Cental of Huts at Gulmarg sanctioned by the State

Council, under Resolution No. 22, dated 8th October, 1896.

The huts in Schedule A are available for rental on the

following conditions :—

I. No hut will be allotted until the full season's rent

has been deposited with the State Engineer, and priority

of deposits shall constitute priority of claim to allotment.

2. Such deposit will be refunded in event of failure

to occupy, subject to the following deductions : —

A deduction of Rs. jo, if notification of relinquish-
ment is given before ist April.

l8o A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

A deduction of Rs. 20, if such notice is given after

1st April and before ist June.
One-half the deposit will be forfeited, if such notice
is not given until after June ist.

3. Tenants may dispose of their right of occupancy
for any period of a season for which they shall have
paid the full rent in advance, provided that, in each
case, the terms of the arrangement shall be clearly de-
fined in a written agreement (signed by both parties
thereto), and that a copy thereof shall be filed in thje
Office of the State Engineer for record and for reference
of the Resident in case of disputes arising.

4. It is to be clearly understood that the foregoing
rule is framed solely for the convenience of tenants who
may be unable to occupy their premises after allotment
for part or whole of the season ; it is not intended to
permit of the acquirement and sub-letting of the huts
for purposes of profit, which is prohibited.

5. The payment of rent as fixed will entitle the
tenant to the use of the premises as detailed in the sche-
dule, in a state of reasonable and water-tight repair,
but the tenant will be liable for all breakages which
may occur during his tenancy.

6. Any tenant wishing to add to the accommodation
of his holding may do so, with the previous sanction of
the State Engineer, at his own cost, and on the under-
standing that such additions become the absolute pro-
perty of the State.

7. Any tenant adding to his holding under the
foregoing rule shall have the right to occupy the
same without enhancement of rent for as many
consecutive seasons as he wishes, provided that

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. l8l

he shall pay the full season's rent in advance on
demand.

The huts in schedule B are available for allotment on
the following conditions : —

8. No hut will be allotted until the nominal ground-
rental of Rs. 20 for the season has been deposited with
the State Engineer.

g. Tenants may occupy and add in any way they
choose to the existing premises, subject to the provi-
sions of rules 3, 4, 6 and 7, but the State will be in no
way responsible for repairs or up-keep.

10. x\ny person wishing to build on a new site may
do so free of charge for the first year, provided that
the Resident's approval of the site has been first ob-
tained, and also provided that, after the first year, the
premises shall become subject to rules 8 and g.

11. Tenants (Schedule A) asking P. W. D. to make
additions or changes, or tenants (Schedule B) asking
for repairs to their huts, will be charged 10 per cent,
commission on the amount of expenditure.

M. NETHERSOLE, c.e..

State Engineer,
Jammu and Kashviiy State.

AMAR SINGH, RAJA,

Vice-President of State Council-

Schedule A.

Guhnayg Huts for Rental.

Hut No. I. — A new 4-roomed hut, 2 bath-rooms, i

small godown, no pantry, stone nogging walls, shingle

roof, I kitchen, 4 servants' quarters, 6 stables, plank

l82 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

walls, and plank and shingle roof: rent Rs. 130 per
season.

Hut No. 3. — A new 8-roomed hut, 4 bath-rooms, 1
store-room and i pantry, stone nogging walls, shingle
roof, with I kitchen, 3 stables and 3 servants' quarters,
all shingled : rent Rs. 200 per season.

Hut No. 4— New, 3 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, i pantry,
plank wall, shingle roof, kitchen, servants' quarters 3,
stables 3, verandah in front of stables, plank wall and
shingle roof: rent Rs. 130 per season.

Hut No. 5. — New, same as hut No. 4 : rent Rs. 130
per season.

Hut No. 7. — New, 4 rooms, 3 bath-rooms, i pantry, i
kitchen, plank walls, shingle roof, 6 servants' quarters,
plank wall, shingle roof, stables 5, old pacherbandi wall,
mud roof, 2 old pacherbandi servants' quarters : rent
Rs. 130 per season.

Hut No. 8. — Dining-room and drawing-room, mud
roof, 4 large bed-rooms, shingle roof, 4 bath-rooms, pan-
try and 3 godowns, 6 servants' houses, 8 stables : rent
Rs 270 per season.

Hut No. 10. — New, 3 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, i pantry,
nogging walls, shingle roof, with i new hut close by,
with I room, i bath room, plank wall, shingle roof, i new
kitchen, 4 new servants' quarters weather boarded
walls and shingle roofs, 4 stables, pacherbandi walls,
and shingle roof: rent Rs. 130 per season

Hut No. 12 A. — New, 4 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, no
pantry, weather boarded walls and shingle roof, 3
servants' houses, shingle roof : rent Rs. 80 per season.

Hut No. 22B.— Old, 3 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, pacher-
bandi walls, mud roof, i new hut close by, 3 rooms,

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 1 83

2 bath-rooms, weather boarded walls, shingle roof, i
kitchen with the old hut, 4 weather boarded servants'
quarters, new shingle roof: rent Rs. 130 per season.

Hut No. 25. — New, 4 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, i pantry,
Hogging walls, shingle roof, i kitchen, new, and 4 ser-
vants' quarters, weather boarded, shingle roof : rent
Rs. 130 per season.

Hut No. 35. — New, 4 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, i pantry,
nogging walls, shingle roof, 4 new servants' quarters,
shingle roof, i kitchen, old, pacherbandi walls, mud roof,
weather boarded, no stables : rent Rs. 130 per season.

Hilt No. 36. — New, 2 rooms, i bath-room, veran-
dah, converted into a room, nogging wall, shingle roof,
I new kitchen, 4 servants' quarters, weather boarded,
shingle roof : rent Rs. 70 per season.

Hut No. 24. — New hut, plank walls, shingle roof,
3 living rooms, 2 small dressing-rooms, 4 bath-rooms,
pantry and store-rooms, i kitchen, 3 servants' quarters,
3 stables, all shingled : rent Rs. 160 per season.

Schedule B.
Old Huts foY allotment on payment of ground-rent Rs. 20 (>er

season.

Hut No. 23. — Old, 3 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, i pantry,
pacherbandi walls, mud roof, i new kitchen, 4 new
servants' quarters, weather boarded, i stable.

Hut No. 26. — Old, I room new, with pacherbandi walls,
shingle roof, 2 rooms old, pacherbandi walls, mud roof,
2 bath-rooms, i pantry, i kitchen, 3 servants' quarters,
pacherbandi walls, plank roof, sheds for stables.

Hut No. 27. — Old, 3 rooms, 2 bath-rooms, pacherbandi
walls, mud roof, i kitchen, 3 servants' quarters.

184 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

Hut No. 30. — Old, 4 rooms, 3 bath-rooms, pacherbandi
walls, mud roof, 2 kitchens, 5 servants' quarters, 2 stables.

Hut No. 31. — Old, 2 rooms, i bath-room, pacherbandi
walls, mud roof, i kitchen, 3 servants' quarters, old,
pacherbandi walls, mud roof.

Hut No. 34. — Old, 3 rooms, 3 bath-rooms, i pantry*
pacherbandi walls, mud roof, i new kitchen, 4 servants'
quarters, weather boarded, 3 old stables and 4 servants'
quarters, pacherbandi walls, mud roof.

Huts Nos. 37 and 38.— Old, each with 2 rooms, i bath-
room, mud roof, no servants' quarters, only 2 kitchens,
4 old stables, pacherbandi walls, mud roof.

Hut No. 39. — Old, 2 rooms, i bath-room, i pantry,
pacherbandi walls, mud roof, very old, i new kitchen
and I new servants' quarters, weather boarded.

Hut No. 40. — Three old rooms, with i new kitchen, 3
servants' quarters.

Limits of Travel.
Gurais has been fixed as the limit of travel in the
Gilgit direction, and the frontier of His Highness' terri-
tories in the Ladakh direction. No visitor will be per-
mitted to cross any frontier of Kashmir territory except
when contiguous with British India, without a special
permit from the Government of India.

Tariff of Boat Hire in Kashmir.
I. Boats hired by the month —
(a). Living Boat ( Doonga ) with crew consisting

of at least 4 persons, Rs. 20.
(6). Kitchen Boat ( Doonga ) with crew consisting
of at least 3 persons, Rs. 1^.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 185

(c). Third class Boats (small Doonga) with crew
consisting of at least 2 persons, Rs. 10.

(d). Small Boat {Shikara ), for boat only, Re. i.
For each member of the crew of the same,
Rs. 4 a month in Srinagar.

Note,— Women and children over twelve years of age are counted as members of
the crew in the cases of (a), (6) and U).

The boats belonging to classes {a), {b) and {c) are marked
with a brand L. B., K. B., and 3rd class, respectively.

2. Wages for extra boatmen employed are annas ^
for each man per diem.

3. In addition to the rates given above, >fl5flrf at the
rate of Re. i per head per mensem, can be claimed by
every member of the crew when the boats on which
they are employed are taken out of Srinagar.

4. Boat-hire by distance.

(i). For each member of the crew : — ■

Boats of class

(a) (b)

Rs. A. P. Rs A. P.

From Baramulla to Srinagar... o 10 o 080

,, Srinagar to Baramulla .. o S o 060

,, ,, ,, Islamabad .. o 10 o 080

,, ,, ,, Avantipore 060 050

,, Islamabad to Srinagar... 080 060

,, Avantipore to Srinagar 050 040
(it). For the trip, crew to consist of the minimum
laid down in para, (i) : —

Rs. A. P. Rs. A. P.

From Srinagar to Ganderbal 140 120

,, ,, ,, Awatkala... 320 300

„ ,, „ Bandipore 200 i 12 o

l86 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

5. When boats are ordered from Srinagar to meet
a visitor at any place, half hire of the boat from
Srinagar to that place is payable, in addition to the
fare due for the journey to the place where the visitor is
proceeding.

6. When a boat is not used on the date for which it
is ordered, the following rates for each day during
which the boat is detained and not used, are payable for
detention : —

Class {a) annas o 10 o per diem.
» (b) ,,080 „
„ (c) ,,060 „

7. Visitors requiring boats and extra boatmen at
Srinagar must apply to Rai Sahib Amar Nath, giving 30
hours' notice for the former and 48 for the latter ; and
when extra boatmen are required at Sopor to cross the
Wular lake on the journey from BaramuUa to Srinagar,
at least 24 hours' notice must be given to the Tahsildav
at Sopor.

8. Extra boatmen can only be supplied at the
following places on the river, viz. : — Baramulla, Sopor,
Hajan, Srinagar and Khanabal ( Islamabad ). They
are not procurable at Sumbal, Shadipore, Pampor or
Avantipore, the inhabitants of which places are not
boatmen by profession, but zamindavs. In every case at
least 24 hours' notice must be given to the Civil
authorities for their supply.

g. Visitors are particularly requested to satisfy
themselves that the wages of any extra boatmen
supplied to them have been properly paid before they
are dismissed.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 187

It is also requested that they will be careful
to see that firewood, milk and other supplies along
the river are regularly paid for by their servants and
boatmen.

Tariff of Hire of Coolies, Ponies, &c,

1. In all localities in the territories of His Highness
the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir the standard
rate shall be paid for the hire of coolies, &c., except
where otherwise specially provided.

2. The standard rate in the said territories is as
follows : —

For a coolie carrying the established load

of 25 sers or less ... ... 4 annas per stage.

,, coolie carrying a load in excess of 25 ,, „

seis but not exceeding i maund 6 ,, ,,

,, kahar ... ... ... 7 „ >,

,, riding pony with English pattern

saddle and bridle ... ... I rupee ,,

M baggage and servants' pony or mule 8 annas „

,, bullocks ... ... .. 8 ,, „

The load of a baggage pony or mule is 80 sers ; of a
yak or bullock 60 sers. Travellers must provide, at
their own cost, all ropes required for securing their
baggage.

3. The following rates are prescribed for the under-
mentioned marches, in supersession of the standard
rate : —

The Ladakh Road.

All visitors to Ladakh are required to enter their
names, destination and permanent address in the
Visitors' List.

l88 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

The rates for the different marches are as follows :-

Srinagar to Ganderbal or vice versa

Ganderbal to Kangan ,,

Kangan to Goond ,,

Goond to Sonamarg ,,

Sonamarg to Baltal „
Baltal to Matiun

Matiun to Dras ,,

Dras to Tashgam ,,

Tashgam to Kargil ,,

Kargil to Shergol ,,

Shergol to Kharbu ,,

Kharbu to Lamayuru ,,

Lamayuru to Nurla „

Nurla to Saspul ,,

Saspul to Nimo ,,
Nimo to Phiang or Spitak ,,

Phiang or Spitak to Leh ,,

The above rates are not applicable when the passes
are closed by snow.

Sportsmen and others wishing to cross the Zojila
pass before the ist of May will be required to obtain a
pavwana from the Assistant Resident for Leh, who
resides at Srinagar, or, in his absence, from the Gover-
nor of Kashmir, and who will make the necessary
arrangements for transport, &c.

The rates to be paid to coolies between Goond and
Dras will be entered on the back of the pavwana in
English and Vernacular, and will vary according to

Coolies.

Ponies,

Annas.

Annas

' 8-

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 189

the season. The maximum being limited to Rsf, 5 per
coolie.

Sportsmen will not be allowed to cross the pass more
than two at a time and at fixed intervals, according to
priority of application at Srinagar.

Supplies and transport are obtainable at all the regular
stages above, except Matayun, where nothing can be
demanded ; travellers halting at stages other than those
above must take their chance about supplies and not
ask to change transport.

Notices to this effect will be found along the whole
line.

At Leh there is a furnished dak bungalow, and all
^formation about the districts beyond Leh is obtain-
able through the Wa^jy of Ladakh and from the notices
in the bungalow.

II. — The Bhimber Route.

From Bhimber to Uri 6 annas each coolie and 8 annas
each kahar per stage.

From Bhimber to Shupyan 6 annas each coolie and
8 annas each kahar per stage.

The rest-houses on this route are not kept up, and
the supply of coolies is limited, and cannot be guaran-
teed.

III. — The Jhelum Valley Cart Road.

1. Any traveller may bring his own transport, and is
entitled to buy supplies at any dak bungalow at the
prescribed rates on this road.

2. The Darbar cannot guarantee the supply of riding
ponies, baggage animals, or coolies along any portion of
the road opened to wheeled traffic.

igO A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

IMPERIAL CARRYING COMPANY,
DHANJIBHOY & SON.

MURREE SECTION.

From Rawalpindi to Murree and vice versa.

Single Journey by Mail Tonga^ exclusive of toll ... 800

Return Journey by Mail Tonga, ditto ... 12 o 0

Express TongUt 3 passengers, ditto ... 24 o o

,, Family Tonga, 3 adults and 2 children ... 30 o o

Bullock Train Carts ... ... ,„ 16 o o

Packages, not including Glass, Crockery, Furni-
ture and Millinery or other bulky goods, per

maund ... ... ... ... 100

Glass, Crockery, Furniture and other bulky

goods, per maund ... ... ... 200

Packages for half-a-maund or fraction of half-a-

maund ... ... ... ... 080

Parcels by Tonga, pet maund ... ... 400

Ice Baskets per Tonga, under ( 10 seers ) ...100

Empty Basket ... .«. ...080

Eika, if obtainable ... ... ... 500

Tongas or carts if brought to private residences to

be loaded or unloaded... ... ... 200

KASHMIR SECTION.

From Murree to Srinagar and vice versa.

RATES. Rs, A. p.

Single Journey by Mail Tonga to Baramulla,
exclusive of toll ... ... ... 30 o o

Special Tonga, 3 passengers, to Baramulla, exclu-
sive of toll... ... .. ... 90 0 o

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. IQI

Rs. a. p.
Special Family Tonga, 3 adults and 2 children, to

Baramulla, exclusive of toll ... ... >2o o o

Phaeton, if available, 3 passengers and 12 seers

luggage, to Baramulla ... ... 150 o o

Single Journey by Mail Tonga to Srinagar, exclu-
sive of toll... ... .. ... 37 o o

Special Tonga, 3 passengers, to Srinagar exclu-
sive of toll ._ ... ... ... no o 0

Special Family Tonga, if available, 3 adults and

2 children, to Srinagar, exclusive of toll ... 145 o o

Phaeton, if available, 3 passengers and 12 seers
luggage, to Srinagar, exclusive of toll ... 175 0 o

Bullock Train Carts, to carry not more than 15
maunds, to Baramulla ... ... 50 o o

Bullock Train Carts to carry not more than 15

maunds, to Srinagar ... ... , ... 60 o o

Packages, not including Glass, Crockery, Furni-
ture, Millinery or other bulky goods, to Bara-
mulla, per maund ... ... ... 380

Packages, not including Glass, Crockery, Furni-
ture, Millinery or other bulky goods, to Bara-
mulla, for half or fraction of a half maund ... I 12 0

Glass, Crockery, Furniture or other bulky goods,
per maund .. ... .. .« 8 o 0

Packages from Baramulla to Kashmir, per maund,

or fraction thereof ... ... .„ 080

Parcels by Tonga, for every 5 seers or fraction of
5 seers ... .. ... ... 180

Ekkas supplied only by Darbar Chaudri or

Tahsildar, from Srinagar to Murree ... 18 o o

Tongas and carts if brought to private residences
to be loaded or unloaded ... ... 200

192 a guide for visitors to kashmir.

Rules, Murree Section.

I. — Tongas are only allowed to run by daylight,
except tongas carrying the mails between
Rawalpindi and Murree and vice versa.
II. — The maximum of passengers allowed, not more
than 3 adults besides driver; in Family tongas,
3 adults and 2 children may be admitted.
III. — The maximum weight allowed for luggage per
Tonga is one and half maund, Family tonga
one maund only.
IV. — Every Tonga to be drawn by two ponies not
over 13-2 in height, quiet, and well-broken
in, and one pony from Murree to Tret and
one pony from Murree to Kohala.
V. — A tonga is not allowed to carry more than 3
passengers besides the driver, and one and
half maunds luggage ; Fa.mi\y tongas, 3 adults
2nd 2 children and one maund luggage.

H. H. G. ROTTON,

District Superintendent of Police.

Notice.— Passengers disregarding the rules are liable to be prose,
cuted by the Police.

Rules, Kashmir Section.

I. — Tongas will not run on the Kashmir road after
dark.
II.— No return tickets are issued between Srinagar

and Murree and vice versd.
III. — Tolls, ghd-charai and a.\\ other taxes are pay-
able by the travellers.

A GUIDE FOR VISITOR^ TO KASHMIR. I93

IV.— Travellers will be conveyed strictly in the
order of booking, and not more than six
special toti^as between Rawalpindi and
Murree and four between Srinagar and
Murree each way will be available daily.
Half fare must be paid in advance, which
will be forfeited if the tonga is not availed
of on the day and time fixed for starting
at the time of booking,
v.— No foiiga or bullock train cart can be supplied
from any intermediate station between
Rawalpfndi, Murree, Baramulla and Srina-
gar, or for a shorter distance than between
these stations. But if seats are available
in the Mail tonga, travellers may be taken
at two rupees eight annas (Rs. 2-8-0) a
seat per march.
VI.— Travellers are requested not to detain the
iouga carrying Her Majesty's Mail for
any reason whatever.
VII. — No seat or tonga to be considered secured till
full fare has been paid and receipt obtained
from the Agency. Intending travellers
are requested to enter themselves the
booking of their seats or tongas in the
Diaries kept in the Agencies.

Note— As only four special tongas per day can be booked between
Srinagar and Murree and vice versd, more cannot be
booked unless the travellers accept the risk of disappoint-
ment and consequent delay for not being passed through
on the day of their arrival. The observance of this rule
is absolutely necessary to ensure the good working of the
horses.

194l A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

VIII; — A traveller by express tonga can onJy break
the journey on payment of the prescribed
fee, as mentioned below, and by previous
arrangement with the Booking Agent at
office of starting.
For each day or part of day during which the
journey is broken Rs. lo ; if broken with-
out such previous arrangement it will be
held to terminate the journey.
Noie.—A halt of not more than two hours for the purpose of re-
freshment or of two nights at any staging bungalow
between Murree and Baramulla only will not be considered
as a break of journey.
IX. — All luggage to be considered as under the travel-
ler's charge and carried at his own risk.
Xhe time of journey is as follows : —
■ Hours.

Between Rawalpindi and Murree ... 6
,, Murree and Baramulla, inclu-
sive of two nights' halt as
permitted by rule ■ ... 48
„ Baramulla and Srinagar ... 6
X. — The weight of luggage per seat allowed free
is 12 seers by the Mail tonga, luggage
exceeding 12 seers, but not exceeding one
maund, and then only if there is room in
the tonga, will be charged for separately
at the rates specified in the schedule for
articles carried by tonga.
iVi>/i;. — The Agents have strict orders to weigh all luggage and to
charge for all in excess.
Travellers will be liable to forfeiture of fare, if insisting
upon any infraction of this rule, as the Agents have
instructions not to start tongas, but under this rule. ,

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. I95

XL — The Imperial Carrying Company give public
notice that they will not be responsible
for any injury, or the result of any injury,
to the persons of passengers travelling by
their service between Rawalpindi and
Srinagar, or to loss or damage of their
property, conveyed thereby, from any
cause whatever.

XII. — Heavy packages for Kashmir must be sent at
least ten days in advance to ensure their
reaching destination before arrival of
travellers.

XIII. — All goods and parcels are carried by the
Company at owner's risk.

A. C. TALBOT, Lt.-Col.,

Resident in Kashiniy.

"];■

SPECIAL NOTICES.
(See Rule 28 under " Gener.al Rules "J.

NOTICK.

The attention of the public is hereby invited to the
provisions of the Stamp Law of the State, which
require the receiver of a sum exceeding twenty rupees
to give a stamped receipt when such receipt is demand-
ed from him by the payer, the receiver being punish-
able with a fine of one hundred rupees if he declines
to give the receipt. The receipt stamps of the Kashmir
State will be used for the purpose, which dealers can
procure at post offices in the districts as well as at the
Srinagar Post Office,

Purchasers of articles and goods are accordingly
advised, in their own interest, to obtain a stamped
receipt when they pay money to dealers in Kashmir.

BHAG RAM,
Revenue Membey of Council.

Tolls on the Jhelum Valley Road.

I. Notice is hereby given that the Kashmir
State levies the following taxes on the Jhelum
valley road, the collection of which is leased to a
Contractor.

4
I
o
o
o
o o

6
3

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 19 7

I. — Road Tax (Sarkana) as follows : —

Rs. A. p.

On e.Tch Iwo-wheeled Carriage or To>i£a ... i o o

,, ,, Ekka ... ... ... o 4

,, ,, Cart drawn by 4 bullocks, laden ... o 12

,, ,, „ „ ,. unloaded ... o 6

,, ,, ,, ,, 2 bullocks, laden ... o

,, „ „ „ M unloaded ... o

,, ,, Camel, laden ... ... ... 0

,, ,, ,, unloaded ... ... ... o

,, ,, Horse, laden ... .„ ... o

,, ,, ,, unloaded ... ... 0

,, ., Ass, laden ... ... ... o

,, ,, ,, unloaded ... ... .•• o

,, ,. Palanquin drawn by 8 Kahars (Bearers) ... i

6 ,, ... 0 12 o

4 ,, ...080

2 ,, ...040

,, ,, Goat, Sheep and I'ig ... ...003

,, ,, Foot person ... ... ...003

., ,, Mule, laden ... ... ...016

,, ,, ,, unloaded ... ... ...009

,, ,, Cart drawn by 3 bullocks, laden ...090

,, ,, ,. ,, ., unloaded ...046

,, ,, Bullock, laden ... ... ...010

., ,, ,, unloaded ... ... ...006

,, ,, Karrachi (Roofed cart), laden, drawn by

2 bullocks ... ... ...060

,, ,, Karrachi (Roofed cart), unloaded, drawn

by 2 bullocks ... ... ...030

II. — Grazing Tax (or Gha-charai) at 6 pies for each
animal per stage.

2. As there are 8 stages from Kohala to Baramulla,
it follows that animals going right through to or from
Baramulla, must pay 4 annas each. Thus for through
travellers the tolls payable on a totiga aggregate
Rs. 1-8-0, i.e., Re. i* road tax, and 8 annas grazing tax ;

ig8 A GUIDE FOR VISItORS TO KASHMIR.

on an ehha the tolls aggregate 8 annas ; on riding
horses and ponies marching in unladen 4 annas g pies,
on the same when laden 5 annas 6 pies each, and so on.

3. To avoid inconvenience to travellers and visitors,
arrangements have been made to collect both the road
tax and the grazing tax either at Kohala or Baramulla.

Travellers and visitors are therefore requested to
make payments, on account of these taxes, to the
Contractor's Agent at the places above mentioned.

The Contractor's Agent will give receipts for the
payments made to him.

4. Ordinarily, travellers proceeding to Srinagar from
British India should pay these tolls to the Contractor's
Agent at Kohala and those returning to British India
should pay at Baramulla.

5. These tolls are exclusive of the ferry tolls paid
at the Kohala bridge to the British Government.

6. Travellers are responsible for payment of the
taxes and not the proprietors of the tongas.

Kashmir Residency: > (Sd.) H. S. BARNES,
Srinagar, i^thMay, 1895. ' Resident in Kashmir.

Notice.

Notice is hereby given that on and after ist
November, on application to the Governor of Kashmir,
visitors and residents in Kashmir will be supplied with
firewood from a depot, which is being formed near the
Lai Mundi palace, at the following rates : —

Hutbas, 2 kharwars per rupee.
Zanglu, 2 kharwars, 4 traks per rupee.
Pinewood, 3 kharwars per rupee.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. IQQ

2. Application must, in all cases, be made, not at
Mie depot, but to the Governor, who will endorse on the
application an order for the wood required. The appli-
cation so endorsed will be taken by applicant's servant
to the Munshi at the depot, who will gee that the wood
is promptly supplied.

3. In all cases cash payment at the rates above
given must be made at the depot before delivery ot the
wood is given.

4. Wood will only be delivered to purchasers at the
depot. Applicants for firewood must make their own
arrangements for taking to their homes the wood
purchased. The Governor will always, if necessary, be
ready to assist applicants to obtain boats for this
purpose.

5. In order that there may be an ample supply of
wood for all, no more than 500 khanvars of wood can
be sold to one and the same family. Visitors and
residents who require more than this amount, must
purchase in the open market.

Kashmir Residenxv, ^

Srinagar: I H.S.BARNES,

The 25th September, 1895. J Resident in Kashmir.

Notice.

European visitors and residents in Kashmir are in-
formed that from and after ist Baisakh, 1953 (12th April,
1896), under the orders of the Kashmir State Council,
si annual tax will be levied on all boats owned and

200 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

employed in the valley of Kashmir, according to the
following schedule : —

Rs. A. p.
700
500
0 o

House boat, ist class
Do. 2nd class

Do. 3rd class __ .

Doonga or large Kashmiri living boat, ist class ... 300

^°' do. 2nd class ... 200

Do* do. 3rd class ... 140

^"- do. 4th class ... I o o

Shikara or small Kashmiri boat, per shikara ... 080

Boats used for shall, Mo<?sa and wood, 1st class ... 200

Do. do. 2nd class ... 100

Khachu boats used for stones, lime, earth, &c. ... 100

2. The boats will be classified under arrangements
to be made by the Governor of Kashmir, who will keep
a list of all boats liable to the tax.

3. The tax will be payable by the owner and not by
the occupier of a boat, and payment should be made
on demand in British Government rupees or their
equivalent in Kashmir coin.

Kashmir Residency, ^

SiALKOT : ( H. S. BARNES,

i6^A November, 1895. ) J?esident in Kashmir.

Notice.

The Kashmir Darbar having introduced a Civil Trans-
port Corps to assist in the requirements of travellers
between Srinagar and Gulmarg and Gulmarg and
Baramulla, the following rules (sanctioned by the
Kashmir State Council under Resolution No. 9, dated
2nd June, 1894, and approved of by the Resident in

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 20I

Kashmir) regulating the employment of this transport,
are published for information of the public : —

1. The Transport Corps will only work from the
15th April to the 15th October of each year,

2. Transport can only be obtained at Srinagar,
Gulmarg and BaramuUa.

3. Requisition for transport at Srinagar should be
addressed to Rai Sahib Amar Nath, but at Gulmarg and
Baramulla to the Transport Agent,

4. Requisitions for transport must be delivered to
the Rai Sahib or the Transport Agents, as the case
may be, at least 30 hours before the transport is
required.

5. Applications for transport will be booked ac-
cording to priority of receipt. In the event of all the
coolies and ponies at a stage being already engaged
for the day, any further requisitions for transport on
that day will be returned with an intimation to that
effect.

6. Persons must avail themselves of the transport
for which they have indented on the day and at the
time mentioned in their requisitions, otherwise their
requisitions will be considered cancelled, and they will
be liable to pay half rates for the transport entered in
their requisitions.

7. A voucher in duplicate will invariably be fur
nished when the transport is supplied Travellers are
requested to sign one voucher as an acknowledgment of
the receipt of transport entered therein and return it to
the Transport Officer by whom it is presented : the
duplicate copy should be kept in case of any cause for
complaint arising.

202 A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR.

8. The rates for hire of transport under these rules
are :— Rs. a. p.

For each coolie ... ...040

,. ,, kahav ... 070

„ a baggage pony ... ... o 12 o

,, ,, riding pony with English saddle I o o

These rates are for each full stage or distance less
than a full stage.

9. Each coolie will carry a load of 25 sdrs and each
pony one of two maunds.

These are the maximum weights, and must not be
exceeded.

10. On arrival at their destination (or at Magam,
in the case of a journey between Gulmarg and Srinagar),
travellers are requested to dismiss the transport engaged
by them with the least practicable delay.

11. The journeys between Srinagar and Gulmarg,
and Baramulla to Gulmarg, and vice versa, as also from
Gulmarg to Palhalan (in cases when the transport is
taken from Gulmarg to that place) will be charged as
two full stages. In the case of the former journey,
transport must be changed at Magam, in the cases of
the two latter journeys, coolies will not be changed on
the road.

12. In cases when a halt is made during any
journey, half rates only will be charged in respect of
each day that such halt may last.

13. In all cases baggage will only be carried at
the owner's risk. All possible precaution will, however,
be taken to guard against damage and loss, and assis-
tance will be given in investigating circumstances under
which damage or loss may have occurred.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 203

14. All complaints against the transport staff should
be made to Rai Sahib Amar Nath at Srinagar.

15. Employers of transport are, in no case, to take
the law into their own hands by attempting to deal with
causes of complaint themselves ; contravention of this
rule will be brought to the notice of the Resident in
Kashmir.

16. Visitors are reminded that, under the pub-
lished rules, payment for coolie and pony transport must
be made in advance to the Transport Agent and not to
the coolies or pony men. If payment is not made in
advance, the Transport .'\gent has authority to refuse
to supply transport.

17. It is requested that the Transport Agent be
treated with the consideration due to officials of His
Highness the Maharajah of Jammu and Kashmir.

AMAR SINGH, RAjAH,

Vice-President,
Jammu and Kashmir State Council.

Approved —

A. C. TALBOT,

Offi^. /Resident in Kashmir.

JM^

GILGIT ROAD.

Rules for Rest-houses.

Tragbal. Godhay.

Garai. Astore.

Gurais. Dashkin.

Pushwari. Doian.

Burzal Chowki, Bunji.

Chiliin Chowki. Big Stone.

1. The rest-houses are provided, in the first place,
for the use of European and Kabhmir officials whose
duties oblige them to travel on the road : European
travellers are also allowed to occupy them on the under-
standing that officials have the first claim to the
accommodation.

2. No servants, followers, or ponies are, on any
account, to occupy the rest-houses.

3. Out-houses are erected for servants and followers,
and where serais exist, they are available for ihe use of
coolies, ponies, &c.

4. The chowkidar will supply, on payment, wood for
the use of officials, travellers and their private servants,
also grass for private ponies. It must be distinctly
understood that he is not to be called on to supply wood
for coolies, &c., nor grass for hired ponies.

5. A fee of annas eight per day is to be paid to the
cJiowkidar by each person using the rest-houses only.

A GUIDE FOR VISITORS TO KASHMIR. 205

The Engineers directly in charge of the road are exempt
from this rule.

6. A book IS provided at each rest-house, in whicii
all persons are requested to enter their names, dale of
arrival and departure, and the fee paid by them in
accordance with rule. Payment under rule 5 must
invariably be made. If any cause of complaint arise,
it can be referred to the State Engineer, Jammu and
Kashmir State.

AMAR SINGH,

Vice-President of State Council.

Approved —

A. C. TALBOT,

Resident in Kashmir.

m. Deiuman ^ Co/s

maian publications.

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^^5 A guide for visitors to

K2C63 Kashmir

1898

PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR SLIPS FROM THIS POCKET

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Full text of "A guide for visitors to Kashmir. Enl., rev. and corr. up to date by A. Mitra. With a route map of Kashmir"

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