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GUIDE

TO THE DISTRICT OF

C RAVEN

Settle and Carlisle Railway,

( WI TH IL LUSTRA TIONS, J

J. RADFORD THOMSON, M.A

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO.; FREDERICK WARNE & CO.
SETTLE: HENRY GORE.

1879.

*** If an y difficulty is experienced in obtaining this Guide, a copy will be
forwarded direct from the Publisher for Twenty stamps.

PREFACE.

r HE Publisher, having 1 for some years past received almost
daily applications for a GUIDE .BOOK TO CRAVEN, and
being unable to meet the demand of the public, has
asked me to prepare a manual for the use of Tourists, who, in
yearly increasing- numbers, resort to this attractive and inte-
resting part of Yorkshire. And, as the opening of the Railway
from Settle to Carlisle the Midland Company's new route to
Scotland has brought a district formerly little known within
the range of the ordinary tourist, it seemed a suitable occasion
to provide a handbook to a part of the country, singularly
wild, romantic, and interesting. The position of Settle, in the
very heart of Craven, and at the point of departure of the new
railroad, suggested that a description of the region penetrated
by that remarkable line might appropriately be included in
this volume.

Although I have myself explored all the more important
of the localities I have described 1 cheerfully acknowledge
obligations to many fellow-labourers in this department of
Topography.

I have made free use of the observations and researches
of the late Mr. WILLIAM HOWSON, whose "Illustrated Guide
to the Curiosities of Craven," published in 1850, has for some
years been out of print. As a native and a resident, Mr.
Howson had opportunities for acquainting himself with Craven,
which he diligently used, and as a geologist and an antiqua-
rian he was highly qualified for the task he fulfilled.

It need scarcely be said that I am largely indebted to Dr.
WHITAKER s " History of Craven," and to Prof. PHILLIPS'S
"Rivers, Mountains, and Sea-coast of Yorkshire."

In preparing that part of this "Guide" which relates to
the new line of railway, I have been largely assisted by the

1049642

painstaking, comprehensive, and interesting work of my
friend, Mr. F. WILLIAMS, upon "The Midland Railway, its
Rise and Progress." Use has also been made of SAYERS'
" History of Westmorland," and JEFFERSON'S " History and
Antiquities of Leith Ward."

I have also found sundry books of home travel of consid-
erable service. I would especially mention Mr. W. WHITE'S
"Month in Yorkshire,'' Mr. W. DOBSON'S " Rambles by the
Ribble," Mr. W. S. BANKS'S ' Walks in Yorkshire," Mr. B.
J. HARKER'S " Rambles in Upper Wharfedale," and Mr. J.
CARE'S " Rambles about Ingleton."

Information has in some places been derived from MUR-
RAY'S and BLACK'S " Guides to Yorkshire."

Chapters xiii, xiv, and xv have been reprinted from How-
son's guide with additions and alterations.

The district of Craven has long been celebrated amongst
Botanists for its production of a great variety of interesting
plants. A capital handbook to these will be found in Dr.
WATTS' "School Flora,' a book which will be found extremely
useful by all who have mastered the elements of botanical
science. The late Dr. WINDSOR of Manchester compiled a
"Flora Cravoniensis," which shows how thoroughly he had
explored every nook and cranny of the district surrounding
Settle. Unfortunately it has only been printed for private
circulation, but the local publisher of this Guide will be glad
to favour any enthusiastic Botanist with the loan of a copy.

In describing the country bordering the Settle and Carlisle
Railway, I have made use of some articles, which I contributed
to the " SHEFFIELD AND ROTHERHAM INDEPENDENT.'

It only remains to add, that, for the sake of variety and
vivacity, I have, in some portions of the book, written in the
first person plural. In a " Guide," which is a v*de mecum
rather than a topographical treatise, this liberty will perhaps
be pardoned. J. R. T.

CONTENTS.

CHAP.

Description of Craven and its railway communications... I.

Skipton II.

Ilkley, Bolton, and Upper Wharfedale III.

Malham and Gordale IV.

Settle and Gig-gleswick V.

Scaleber, Attermire, and the Victoria Cave VI.

Clapham and Ing"leboroug"h Cave VII.

Ingleton, Chapel-le-dale, and Kingsdale VIII.

The lower Ribblesdale IX.

The Settle and Carlisle Railway X.

Upper Ribblesdale, Denthead, and Hawes XI.

The Eden Valley XII.

Geology of Craven XIII.

Botany of Craven XIV.

Dialect of Craven .. . XV.

INDEX.

Addingham 23, 109

Aire, source of. 41

Ais Gill Moor 87

Airton 38

Amerdale 35

Austwick 61, 62

Appleby II, 15, 89, 97, 102 106
Appleby Church & Castle... 104, 105

AppletreewicK 31

Armathwaite go, 109

Arncliffe 35

Arten Ghyll 86

Attermire...... 45, 54, 55

Attermire Rocks 10

Harden Fells 10, 24, 32

Barden Tower 28, 30

Barnoldswick 55, 74, 75

Batty Green 85

Batty Moss 71

Batty Moss Viaduct 85

Battle Barrow Bank 89

Beckermonds 36

Bell Busk and Railway Station 38

Ben Rhydding 22

Bingley Ii

Birkett Tunnel 87, 88, 101

Bishopdale 36

Black Foss 96

Blea Moor 85, 95

Bolton 21, 2229

Bolton Abbey 24, 26, 27, 33

Bolton Woods and Strid 24, 28

Bolton Hall 26

Bolton-by-Bowland 74, 76

Bowland or Bolland Forest ... 78

Bowder Stones 62

Botany of Craven 120

Breadagarth 72

Browsholme Hall 78

Bracewell 74, 77

Broughton Hall 74

Brow Gill 95, 96

Buckden 36

Buckden Pike 10, 36

Buckhaw Brow 51, 66

Burley 21

Burnsall 32

Carlisle 10, n, 91

Castle Hough 75

Ca'tleberg 45, 47

Cam Fell 10, 32, 37, 82, 95

Cat Knot Hole 95

Cautley Spout 96

Calton Hall 38

Catterick or Catrigg Foss 52

Cattle, Wild (Gisburne Park) 75

Chaucer quoted 36

Chapel-le-dale 34, 66, 69, 95

Clapham and Cave 45, 61, 65

Clifford Family 15 19

Clifford, Lady Anne loo, 109

Clifford, the shepherd lord 30

Cloud-berries 37

Collision 33, 34

Coom Scar 43

Cosh Knot 10

Cracoe 33

Craven 9, 13

Craven, three weeks tour in 12, 13

Craven Fault 10, 38, 49

Craven Archdeaconry (Parishes

in) .*I3

Croglin Beck 108

Cromwell Oliver, fac-simile of

Autograph 40

CrossFell 90, 106

Crosby Garrett 89

Crowdundle Beck 89

Dandry Mire Viaduct 87

Dangerous Cave 49

Dawkins, Mr., quoted 58, 59, 70, 94

Dee, river 85, 86

Deepdale 36

Denham Wheel 76

Dew Bottom Scar 34

Dent 86, 95, 96

Dent dale 10, 73, 82, 85, 86

Dent Head 88, 95

Dent Head Viaduct 86

Deep Gill 87

Dialect of Craven 125

Dib Scar Glen 34

Doe River 68, 72

Dobson Mr., quoted " Rambles

by theRibble" 66, 67

Douk Cave 36

Vll

Douk Gill Scar 94

Dowker Bottom and Cave 35

Draughton 23

Druids' Circle 33

Dry Gill 31

Eamont River 89

Ebbing and Flowing Well... 49 51

Eden Valley 82, 97 109

Eden River 10, u, 82, 89

Eden Hall 90

Eden Brow 90

Engineering difficulties 84 86

Engineering victories 82

Eshton Hall 19

Eshton Tarn 20

Feizor 61, 66

Flasby Fell 10, 33

Forest Becks 78

Fountains Fell 10

Garsdale 82- 86

Gargrave 19, 55

Gate Kirk Cave 72

Gaping Ghyll . 63

Gearstones 95

Geology of Craven no

Ghaistrill Force and Strid 33

Gill Beck 31

Giggleswick 48 51

Giggleswick School 48, 49

Giggleswick Scar 10, 34, 49

Gisburne 74, 75

Gledstone Hall 74

Gordale, Little 42, 43

Gordale Scar 31, 41. 42, 52

Grassington 33

Gray quoted 44

Greenfield Beck ;. 37

Greenhow Hill 32

Greta river 68, 69

Graygarth 72

Hard Flask 10

Hardrow Force 96

Harker Mr., quoted 37

Hawkswick 35

Hawes 69, 87, 96

Halton Gill 35

Halton Place 78

Hanlith 39

Hebden 32

Hellifield 52

Helln Pot, Awful Chasm ... 94, 95

Henry VI 77

High Side 45

H odder river 78

Horse's Head 35

Horton 60, 84, 93

Howson Mr, quoted 29, 93, no, 125

Howgill Fells 96

Hubberholme 35, 36

Hurtle Pot 70, 71

Hartley Thos., quoted 41

Ingleton 55, 68

Ilkley 12, 21

Ingleborough ... 10, 65, 66, 81, 85

Ingleborough Cave 62 65

Inns 12

Jackson Mr., discovery of Vic-
toria Cave 55 57

Janet's Cave 43

Jackdaw Hole 95

Jingle Pot 70, 71

Keighley n

Kettlewell 34, 36

Kettlewell dale 36

Kilnsey 34

Kilnsey Scar or Crag 10, 34

Kingsdale 68, 72

Kirkby Malham 39

Kirkby Stephen ... 84, 87, 97, 102
Kirkoswald Castle & Church 90, 106

Lambert family 39

Langcliffe 52, 60, 82

Langcliffe Hall 52

Langstrothdale 36

Lawkland 61

Lammerside Castle 99, 101

Lazonby 90, 97, 106

Linton 32

Litton 35

Litton dale 10, 35

Long Marlon 89

Long Meg and her daug .ters,

Dmidical remains 90, 109

Lo ngwathby 90

Long Preston 52, 74, 78

Lune River n

Lynn Gill 95

Malham 38, 44

Malham Cove ... 10, 34, 38, 40, 41

Malham Tarn 41,43

Marton, East and West 74

Mallerstang Edge 87,98

Micklefell 65, 81

Midland Railway n

Mitton and Church 78

Moorcock Inn 87

Moughton Fell 35, 82

Mountains 10

Vlll

Nappa 78

Nateby IOI

Newbiggin 89

Newby Head 95

Norber 62

Normanton Dining Room... 79, 80

Norton Tower 33

Nunnery Walks near Kirkos-

wald 106, 108

Ormside 89

Otley 20, 21

Outershaw and Beck 37

Outhgill 99

Paley, Archdeacon 47, 48

Parishes in Craven 13

Paythorne 78

Pendle Hill 16, 45, 55, 81

Pendragon Castle 88, 99, 100

Pennine Chain 9, 81

Pennine Fault 87

Pennegent 81, 93

Phillips quoted 34, 65, 66, Ho

Pudsay's Leap 77

Pudsay, Sir Ralph 78

Pullman Car 79

Rainfall 88

Railway, Settle and Carlisle ... 79

Railway communication n, 12

Rainsber Scar 77

Raisgill 35, 36

Raisegill Hag 10

Rathmell ?8

Ravenwray 72

Ribblehead :.. 68, 85, 95

Ribblesdale 10, n, 34, 82, 83

Ribblesdale the lower 74 78

Rimington 77

Rumbold's Moor 10, 14, 21

Rise Hill Tunnel 86

Robin Hood's Mill 51

Rye Loaf or Rye-loaf . . 10, 32, 54

Rylstone 33

Rylstone Fell 33

Sawley Abbey 76

Scaleber Force 45, 54

Scars 10

Scotsthrop 38

Scoska Moor 10

-Sel Gill 95

Settle ii, 45, 46

Settle Station 82

Selside 84

! Sedbergh 87, 96

Simon's Seat ... 10, 24, 29, 31, 32

I Skirfare, the 35

Skipton II, 14 20

Skipton Castle 1518

Skyreholme 31

Slaidburn 78

Smardale Viaduct 88

Stackhouse 51, 60, 82

Starbottom 36

Stainforth 35, 51, 60

Stainforth Foss 51

Staircase Cave 49

Strid, the, Bolton Woods ... 24, 28

Staffold Manor House 107

Stenkreth or Stankthred 101

Stump Cross Caverns 31

Sugar loaf 54

Thirl Pot 94

Thornton Foss 7 2

Thornton Beck 68

Thorns Gill 95

Thorpe 32

Thund Pot 94

Tiddeman Mr. quoted 59

Threshfield 33

Trailers Gill 31

Trumla Ha' 34

List of Mid. Railway Tunnels 9 2

Upper Ribblesdale 93 95

Uther Pendragon 100

Viaducts, List of, Mid. Railway 91

Victoria Caves 35, 55 59

Waddington Hall 77, 7*-

Warrendale Knots 55, 60

Wensleydale 10, 96

Winskill 60

Weathercote Cave 70, 71, 73

Wenning River 10, n

Wharfe Gill 62

Wharfe, hamlet 61

Wharfedale 21 37

Wharfedale, upper 31 37

Wharton Hall 88, 97, 99

Whitaker quoted 23, 75

Whernside in Wharfedale 36

Whernside 10, 71, 73, 81, 85

Wigglesworth 52, 78

Williams Mr. quoted 84, 85

Wild Boar Fell 87, 100

Yockenthwaite 36

Yordas Cave 72,73

CHAPTER I.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DISTRICT AND ITS RAILWAY
COMMUNICATION.

'HERE are two ways of describing and defining- a
locality : its artificial boundaries may be mentioned,
and its several artificial divisions may be enumerated;
or, its position may be brought before the mind's eye,
its characteristic features may be outlined, after the
manner of physical geography, by a statement as to its
mountains, its valleys and its rivers.

To proceed upon the former the conventional method.
Craven is properly an ecclesiastical appellation ; it is the
name of a Deanery, including 27 parishes, several of which
include subordinate "districts," in the north-west of Yorkshire.
The term is, however, somewhat loosely and popularly
applied, and is considered to include nearly the whole of
the Wapontake of Staincliffe and a part of Ewcross, with
smaller portions of Skirack and Claro.

On the south and west the boundary of Craven extends to
the County Palatine of Lancaster. It will, however, be more
interesting to the reader to be informed of the situation and
the distinctive features of the region about 10 be described
in detail.

The range of mountains which runs north and south, from
the borders of Scotland into Derbyshire, is known as the
Penine Chain. It forms the watershed of the north of
England : the rivers rising- on its slopes finding their way
either eastward into the German Ocean, or westward into
the Irish Sea. A glance at the map will show that there
are two rivers, the Aire and the Wharfe, which, rising in the
highlands of Yorkshire, flow into the Ouse, and so into the
Humber; and that there is a river, the Ribble, which flows
into the sea below Preston, in Lancashire.

The district, to which this book proposes to be a guide,
includes the sources and the earlier portions of the courses of
these three rivers. There are tributaries to all three, and
there are other rivers, such as the Wenning, which do not
flow into any of them. But the above is a definition accurate
enough.

But this is offered as a Guide, not only to Craven, but to
the Settle and Carlisle Railway. Now, that line touches the
head both of Dentdale and of Wensleydale, but the greater
portion of it, after Ribblesdale has been penetrated to the
river's source, follows the course of the Eden, from its rise
nearly to its outflow into the sea, below Carlisle.

Wharfedale, Airedale, and Ribblesdale; these are the
three great valleys of Craven. Now, these valleys thread
their way amidst mountains which are among the most lofty
in England, being only exceeded in elevation by the peaks to
the westward, in the neighbourhood of the Lakes. Ingle-
borough and Whernside on the west, and Pennygent on the
east of Ribblesdale ; Rye Loaf and Hard Flask in the vicinity
of the source of the Aire, and Flasby Fell and Rumbold's
Moor among the heights that overlook the course of the same
river; Great and Little Whernside, and Buckden and Rams-
den's Pikes on the eastern side of the Wharfe ; Buckden
Birks, Horse Head, and Raisegill Hag, between Littondale
and the Upper Wharfedale; Simon Seat and Barden Fell
lower down Wharfedale ; and in a central line through the
district, south and north, Fountains Fell, Scoska Moor, Cosh
Knot and Cam Fell ; these may be taken as the more
prominent and noticeable of these Craven fells and mountains.

There is a feature of the hill scenery of this district which
calls for special attention. The traveller will observe in
several parts of Craven 'scars' or cliffs of a very remarkable
character. These are precipitous bare escarpments of lime-
stone rock. The most interesting of these are Kilnsey Crag,
Malham Cove, Attermire Rocks, and Giggleswick Scar.
Several of these scars mark the lines of the great Craven
fault, a displacement of the limestone formation, which has
left most unmistakeable traces upon the face of the country,
and which is the cause of not a little of the picturesque
scenery of Craven.

The geological character of the district is extremely
interesting, and will be found described in another chapter.
The observant traveller will not fail to note the signs of the

geological formation unmistakeably evident 5n the general
aspect of the country, and in the prevalent vegetation. He
will remark the slates of Ribblesdale, the limestone rocks
which are the feature of Craven, the capping of millstone
grit upon the summits of several of the loftiest mountains, and
the conglomerate sandstone which forms the lovely valley of
the Eden.

So distinguishing a characteristic is the mountainous and
craggy nature of this region that it is embedded in the very
name by which it is designated. Craven is believed to be
Craig Vaen, "the stony rock," and appears equivalent in
meaning to Staincliffe, the name of the Wapontake which
is largely coincident with the ecclesiastical division, the
Deanery.

The prevailing character of Craven is pastoral. At Bingley,
Keighley, and Skipton, there are considerable manufactures,
and here and there in the valleys the tourist will come upon a
cotton mill, giving employment to the population. But
agriculture is the chief occupation of the inhabitants of
Craven ; and the land is chiefly pasture and meadow land, the
amount of arable soil being very small. Indeed, in the
higher valleys there is often not a single ploughed field to be
seen, look where you will. Cattle and sheep are reared, fed,
and fattened in abundance. Especially since the great rise
in the price of meat, it is this department of farming which
has been found most profitable by the "statesmen" and the
"dalesmen," of the north-west of England.

The country bordering the Settle and Carlisle Railway is,
for the first half of the way, altogether pastoral ; but in the
valley of the Eden, from Appleby downwards, coin is grown
in considerable quantity, and the ordinary green crops appear
to flourish

The district to which this book professes to be a guide is
easily accessible by railway from every part of England.
The Midland Railway runs right through the heart of Craven,
from Bingley, by Keighley and Skipton to Settle, and thence
pursues its way to Carlisle, as described in Chapters x., XL,
and xn. The traveller from London or the midland counties
will, of necessity take this route, via Normanton and Leeds :
and the tourist approaching from Scotland will be careful to
leave Carlisle by the 'new route.' From Lancaster and its
neighbourhood, the approach to Craven is also by the
Midland line, up the valleys of the Lune and the Wenning.

The tourist from Liverpool, Manchester, and most other parts
of Lancashire, will find the Lancashire and Yorkshire route
by Colne the most convenient for reaching" Skipton.

Should the visitor to Craven desire, in the first instance, to
explore Wharfedale, commencing- at Ilkley, he can reach
Ilkley from Leeds by the Midland or by the North Eastern
Railway, or from Harrogate by the latter.

Once in the district the tourist will find no difficulty in
reaching any place described in this Guide. The pedestrian
will often be able to avail himself of the help of the Midland
Railway in passing over the less inviting portions of his route.
There is an omnibus which conveys the mails daily from
Skipton to Wharfedale. Carriages, dog-carts, and waggon-
ettes may be hired at all the towns and some of the villages
of Craven ; and saddle horses and ponies may be procured at
many of the village inns, and will be found very suitable for
mountain excursions.

As for the inns, the tourist may confidently reckon upon
cleanliness and good fare, as well as attentive treatment. If
he visit the remoter valleys, he must expect humble enter-
tainment. Mountain mutton, trout from the becks, cream from
the dairy, heath honey from the hives, are specialities of the
district ; and he must be hard to please who does not
acknowledge, at the close of a tour in Craven, that he has
fared well.

A THREE WEEKS' TOUR IN CRAVEN AND THE SETTLE AND
CARLISLE DISTRICT :

Monday Skipton: Church and Castle.

Tuesday Bolton, Ilkley, and Ben Rhydding.

Wednesday... Harden Tower and Simon's Seat; Grassington.

Thursday ...Wharfedale: Kilnsey, Dowkerbottom, Kettlewell

Friday Wharfedale, Littondale, and Langstrothdale.

Saturday ....Bolton Priory and Woods.

Sunday Rest at Bolton.

Monday Malham and Gordale, via Skipton and Bell Busk.

Tuesday Settle: Giggleswick Scar, School, and Well.

Wednesday ... Attermire, Scaleber, and Victoria Cave.

Thursday ...Horton, climb Pennegent, Helln Pot.

Friday A.ustwick, Clapham, the Cave.

Saturday ....Climb Ingleborough, or a long excursion into
Lower Ribblesdale.

Sunday Rest at Clapham

Monday Ingleton, Thornton, Chapel-le-dale, Weather-
cote, Gearstones.

Tuesday Ribblehead, Thorns Gill, Blea Moor.

Wednesday ..Dentdale.

Thursday ...Hawes and Upper Wensleydale.

Friday Kirkby Stephen, Wharton Hall, Pendragon

Castle.
Saturday ....Appleby, Long Meg, Lazonby, and Nunnery

Walks.
Sunday Rest at Carlisle.

NOTE TO CHAPTER I.

The following are the parishes included in the Archdeaconry of Craven,
which is one of the two Archdeaconries of the Diocese of Ripon, that of
Richmond being the other :

Western Division.
Barnoldswick
Bolton-by-Bowland
Bracewell
Broughton
Carlton

Lothersdale
Gisburne

Tosside
Marton
Mitton

Grindleton

Hurst Green

Waddington
bkipton

Christchurch

Embsay
Slaidburn with

Dale Head
Thornton-in-Craven
Kellbrooke

Northern Division.
Arncliffe

Halton Gill

Hubberholme
Burnsall, with

Rylstone and

Conistone
Gargrave

Conistone
Giggleswick

Langcliffe

Rathmell

Settle

Stainforth

Horton-in-Ribblesdale
Kettlewel'
Kirkby Malhamdale
Linton
Long Preston

Southern Division.
Addingham
Bingley

Holy Trinity

Cullingworth

Moughton

Morton with

Morton Banks
Bolton Abbey
Ilkley
Keighley

Eastwood

Oakworth

Ingrow cum-Hain-

worth
Kildwick

Cononley

Cowling

Silsden

Sutton

CHAPTER II.

SKIPTON.
Inns:- Devonshire Arms and Black Horse.

'NDER the south-western slope of Rumbold's Moor, in
the valley af the Aire and on its left bank, at a
distance of 26 miles from Leeds and 18 from Bradford
is Skipton, the capital of Craven. The nam^ (from
A.~S. seep, sheep) points to the pastoral nature of the district,
which is and has long- been famous for cattle and sheep.
There is a fortnightly cattle market, also cattle and horse fairs
of some importance. The population in 1871 was 9,505, and
the number of houses 1946.

Approaching the town from the new and commodious station
of the Midland Railway, the visitor crosses the Leeds and
Liverpool Canal, and enters the main street, which is broad
and would be decidedly handsome but for the "middle row,"
or block of houses in the midst of its lower portion. The
houses are built of stone, and in the street are some good
modern buildings, shops, banking-houses, &c. In the suburbs
are some very neat modern villas. There are several cotton
factories, giving employment to a large number of hands.
The quarrying of the limestone for building is one of the
great industries of Skipton.

There is a well-endowed Grammar School, formerly free,
but now, under a new scheme, open to all upon payment of
moderate school fees. The new school buildings are hand-
some and commodious

The Craven Baths and Pump Room have been erected for
the utilization of the saline sulphuretted spring ; they will be
found at the ^astern part of the town.

There are two churches, and places of worship for Wes-
leyans, Independents, &c. The modern church, Christ church,
is in the direction of the railway station.

At the head of the chief street, and in proximity to one
another, are the two " lions" of Skipton the Castle and the
Church.

The Castle of Skipton is chiefly associated with the
historical family of the Cliffords. Skipton, which was before
the Conquest the property of Earl Edwin, was granted by
William the Conqueror to Robert de Romille, who is believed
to have built the original castle. It passed by descent to the
family of Albemarle, but in the reign of Edward I. came
into possession of the Crown. Edward II. bestowed Skipton
upon his favourite. Piers de Gaveston ; and afterwards on
Robert de Clifford, who had fought under Edward I. against
the Scotch, and who afterwards fell at Bannockburn, in 1314.
Except that an attainder occurred in the first year of Edward IV.
to Lord John Clifford, who had sided with the Lancastrian
party, and who was killed the day before the battle of Towton,
Skipton remained in the possession of the Cliffords for upwards
of three centuries, and indeed, has remained in the hands of
their descendents to the present time.

The best known and most famous of the family have been
the eighth lord, who fell at the battle of St. Albans ; his son,
the "black-faced Clifford,'' who fell at Ferrybridge; and his
son, known as the "shepherd lord," because, during the
attainder above referred to, he was hidden, by his mother's
care, among the shepherds of Cumberland for 24 years. The
next lord was created Earl of Cumberland by Henry VIII.,
and it was by him that the more modern portion of the Castle
was built. The famous Lady Anne Clifford was the daughter
of the third Earl, and was successively Countess of Dorset and
of Pembroke. She was born in Skipton Castle, January, 1590,
and lived until 1675, when she died at Appleby, where she
lies buried. She restored this and others of her castles;
Skipton the more needing it as it had endured a three years'
siege by the Parliamentarian troops during the Civil War.

From Lady Anne Clifford Skipton came to the Earls of
Thanet, her grandsons, whose descendant, Sir Henry Tufton,
is its present owner.

As we approach the Castle we feel how completely it must
have dominated the little town below. There are at the
entrance two round towers with the gateway between them.
Over the gateway is a coat of arms, and above this, in large
letters of stone, forming a kind of parapet and standing out
in singular relief against the sky, the word DESORMAIS.

the family motto of the Cliffords. We ring and are admitted,
and, after glancing at a grotesque room in the gateway,
stuck all round with shells, and remarking the groove for the
ancient portcullis on the inner side of the archway, proceed,
under the guidance of the janitor, to survey the buildings. On
the right is a modern residence inhabited by servants, who
keep it in order for the occasional use of the steward. The
apartments here contain some interesting tapestry, said to
date from the time of Henry IV., and some family portraits.

We ascend a flight of stairs on the left, and enter the old
Castle buildings. Over the door is a shield engraven with
amorial quarterings. and an inscription from which we learn
that the Castle was restored in 165758, by that great
" restorer of waste places," Lady Anne Clifford. The stairs
lead up to the Inner Court, which we found cool and shady on
a hot day of August. In the middle is a fine yew tree,
estimated to be from 500 to 700 years old, which divides into
three branches, and almost fills the court with its lofty and
spreading growth; a stone seat surrounds the trunk. Here is
an ancient octagonal font, which was removed from the
private chapel of the Cliffords. Over one doorway in this
court we observe the stone effigy of the Griffin the Clifford
crest ; over another the arms of Piers de Gaveston, the
favourite of Edward II.

The apartments of the Castle are in an uninhabitable and
anything but attractive condition , but they are of great
interest, as shewing the arrangements of a fortified building
of the period. There are no two rooms upon the same level,
and there is not one room in the Castle which has not two
doors, it is said, in order to facilitate escape in case of
surprise. We were led through a gloomy store-room intq a
circular guard-room, the walls of which we remarked as being
ten feet in thickness ; and thence into a bedroom, which,
tradition tells, was the birth-place of Fair Rosamund, whose
reputed inner chamber adjoins it. Ascending the staircase
and passing sundry bedrooms, we reached the leaded roof of
the watch-tower. Hence we enjoyed a fine view : looking
south, we saw Skipton streets, mills, and churches below us,
and the valley of the Aire, with Carleton Moors beyond ;
looking east, the landscape was soon bounded by the massive
heights of Rumbold's Moor; northwards, Embsay Moor
stretched before us ; whilst the prospect on the west was
bounded by the ubiquitous outlines of Pendle Hill. Just below

and beyond the Castle, northwards, the landscape is enriched
by the pretty Skipton Woods, consisting of beech, ash, fir, and
bastard sycamores. Every room, as we descend from the
leads, has a separate roof of its own, and there is a promenade
among the roofs all over the Castle.

Returning-, we passed through the best bedroom, which had
formerly a carved oak ceiling-, until, after the surrender of the
Castle, all the carved oak was burned, of course by Oliver
Cromwell ! We observed that, as usual, all the outer win-
dows are merely loop-holes ; all the windows admitting- any
amount of light open to the inner court. Fancy easily
re-constructs these old apartments, with their windows not of
g-lass, but horn, their floors covered not with carpets, but with
rushes, their walls hung- with tapestry, and their open fire-
places with blazing- logs upon the dog-irons!

From a dimly lighted drawing-room a door leads to the
muniment room, where the deeds and papers relating to the
estate are said still to be kept. Dark passages led us to the
circular room which tradition has denominated Mary's room,
and which, it is fabled, Mary, Queen of Scots occupied as a
resting place, when on her w r ay southwards in the custody of
a Clifford. From the window of the morning or breakfast
room we looked out and remarked water gleaming here and
there amongst dense foliage. Just under the Castle walls is
a branch of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal; beyond is a
small culvert ; and beyond that, part of the old moat, now
converted into a mill dam. The ancient banqueting-hall,
which is low and by no means imposing, is still used upon the
occasions when the tenants of Sir Henry Tufton dine in the
Castle under the presidency of the steward. A landing,
passing the buttery hatch, led us to the kitchen, which seemed
to us the most interesting apartment in the Castle. There are
two grand kitchen fire-places, one at each end of the apart-
ment ; and as we looked up the great chimneys to the sky, we
fancied how, in the old days of rude hospitality, the log fires
must have roared when the preparations were going forward
for some lordly feast ! Passing the steward's pantry and
bedroom, we descended by a flight of steps to the dungeon, a
damp, musty-smelling prison, some sixteen feet by seven,
with the solid rock for its floor, and at the entrance, the
still remaining apertures for bolts of frightful security.

The bulk of the old Castle is Edwardian, though there is a
Norman doorway partially concealed by the present entrance.

Some of the upper portions of the walls are said to be the
work of Lady Anne Clifford, who restored the building ; they
are not so massive, which tradition accounts for by saying that
her ladyship was not allowed to repair the place as a
stronghold.

Part of the outer wall towa^ls the town still remains ; it is
seven feet in thickness. The site of the moat is now occupied
by the high road, running without and below the wall.

Close by the Castle is the Church, the tower of which was.
it is said, battered by the Parliamentary forces during the
siege already alluded to : the damage was, however, made
good by the redoubtable Countess, in 1655.

The Church is approached by a new porch, the gift of Mr.
Robinson, in 1850; itself handsome enough, but in the
decorated Gothic style, and scarcely in keeping with the
Perpendicular building. In the south aisle are four sedilia of
the I3th century, of admirable design. The whole building
was repaired in 1665 of course, by Lady Anne Clifford--and
after being struck by lightning, was again partially restored
in 1853. A flight of seven steps leads up to the altar. The
handsome reredos, of Caen Stone, costing 800, was erected
in 1874, as a memorial of Mr. Henry Alcock by eight of his
children. The handsome screen has been recently restored.
In 1876 a new organ was provided at a cost of 700.

Observe the stained glass windows, four of which are
Belgian, by Capronnier, of Brussels. The subject of one is
St. Luke, a memorial to a physician, Dr. Marsden. Another
is in memory of Mr. Birtwhistle ; the subjects are, " The
Bearing of the Cross." "The Agony," and "The Appearance
to Mary." There are also windows by Cox, of London.

The oaken roof is flat, and is very beautifully carved ; it is
probably of the i6th century.

Above the west gallery, upon the wall, is a singular work
of art. It is a picture, not painted, but burnt into panels of
sycamore wood, no colour at all having been used, and the
whole effect, which is by no means contemptible, being
produced by burning. It is said that a hot poker was the
instrument employed! The artist was a native of Skipton,
named Smith. The subject appears to be "The Vision of
Angels by the Shepherds."

But the most interesting feature in Skipton Church is its
monuments. There is an ancient altar slab in the north
chancel, in which also should be remarked the stones marking

the vaults where lie interred the former head-masters of the
grammar-school of the town.

A stone tablet upon the wall bears the following" very
touching 1 inscription : " IMMENSI DOLORIS MONUMENTUM ANGUSTUM.
HKXRICUS PATER DEFLET FRANCISCUM, CHAROLUJI, HENRICUM,
A.D. MDXXXI."

In the chancel are three monumental tombs of the Cliffords,
all of which have been recently restored, under the superin-
tendence of Sir Gilbert Scott, and at the expense of the present
Duke of Devonshire. Several brasses belonging to these
tombs were found at a farm-house in the neighbourhood, and
were restored to their proper position ; and new brasses, to
match the old, have been inserted in the vacant spaces. One
large tomb, that on the north side, is to the memory of Sir
Henry Clifford, who became first Earl of Cumberland, and
Margaret, his wife, a daughter of Sir Henry Percy, of
Northumberland. At the head of this tomb is a brass
commemorative of three generations. The effigies are all in
brass ; the head-stone contains an emblematical representation
of the Trinity.

On the south side of the chancel is a tomb of black marble,
that of the third Earl of Cumberland, and father of the famous
Lady Anne. This monument is remarkable for the heraldic
adornments it displays. Here are 17 shields of armorial
bearings ; six on each side, two at the feet, and three at the
head !

Nine of the Clifford family lie in vaults under the chancel of
this Church. All, excepting one, are enclosed in leads fitting
the figure of the body.

Near the tower, is a Library, bequeathed in 1719 by
Silvester Petyt, whose portrait hangs in the vestry. There
are some ancient books ; we noticed a history of the world,
printed in the year 1497.

GARGRAVE is the next station to Skipton. The village is
situated among verdant meadows. Tradition tells that there
were once seven churches in Gargrave, but that six were
destroyed by the Scots in one of their excursions, the one
remaining church being spared because dedicated to St.
Andrew, the patron saint of Scotland.

Half-a-mile from the village was discovered the site of a
Roman villa, but no traces of it are now to be seen.

A mile and a half from Gargrave is the seat of Sir Matthew
Wilson, M.P., Eshton Hall, a spacious mansion in which is a

fine library of 15,000 volumes, said to be peculiarly rich in the
natural sciences, topography, and history. There are also
valuable manuscripts and some fine painting's.

Above the Hall is St. Helen's Well, a copious opening from
which a streamlet flows which waters the park.

Eshton Tarn is a small lake less than two miles in circum-
ference. Since the draining of Giggleswick Tarn, Malham
and Eshton remain the only lakes in Craven.

Distances from Skipton: To Ilkley, 9 miles; to Bolton Bridge,
6 miles ; to Harden, 6 miles ; to Grassington, 1 1 miles ; to
Malham, 1 1 miles.

CHAPTER III.

WHARFEDALE.

"T will be convenient to the reader that this chapter should
be divided into three sections, treating" respectively of
Ilkley, of Bolton and Barden, and of the Upper Wharfe.
The Wharfe, it may be premised, is the Verbeia of the
Romans, and the Guerf of the Saxons.

I. ILKLEY.
Inns: Crescent Hotel, Lister's Arms, and Rose and Crown.

Although the pedestrian may approach Ilkley from Leeds
by way of Otley Chevin, Otley, and Burley, and as we have
done more than once in younger days may even walk from
Leeds in the early summer morning" and reach Ilkley in time
for breakfast, yet, we will suppose the visitor to arrive by
train, and to begun his explorations of Wharfedale at this
modern and beautifully situated watering-place.

With the swift flowing" Wharfe in the valley below, bordered
by its bright meadows, with the timbered park of Middleton
Hall on the northern slope opposite with the heights of
Rumbold's Moor behind, rising- to an elevation of over 1,300
feet with its snug hotels and well-placed "water establish-
ments," Ilkley may well boast of its charming situation. A
few years ago, and it was a quiet village, with an old-fashioned
inn, and some primitive lodging houses, and above all, the
Cold Bath, in the little stone hut on the hill side. Now, there
are hotels and "establishments," handsome new churches and
elegant villas; and Ilkley aspires to be " the Malvern of the
north." However, the valley is as lovely as ever, and the
moors as breezy and exhilarating; and parties of young
people may still be met with crossing the Wharfe upon the

old stepping- stones, or clambering- to the top of the Cow and
Calf rocks, or gathering bilberries on the moor, as of old.

Bin Rhydding is a large and imposing looking building, in
the Scottish Baronial style, devoted to the accommodation of
patients under the " cold water treatment." It was opened in
1844, but has been since enlarged. There is a Turkish bath,
a compressed air bath, and indeed baths of every description.
Plenty of amusements are provided : billiard rooms, a
bowling green, a bowling alley, croquet lawns, and a racket
court, are well adapted to "drive away dull care." There
are extensive grounds attached to the house, and better still,
the heathery moors immediately adjoin the estate.

This well-known and largely frequented establishment is
situated above a mile to the east of Ilkley ; but it has a railway
station of its own for the use of the inmates.

Ilkley Wells House was built some years subsequently, in
1856. It stands in the higher part of Ilkley, and like Ben
Rhydding, commands fine views over the valley of the Wharfe.
This mansion is in the Italian style, and contains every
convenience and luxury.

Boarders not in need of hydropathic treatment are received
at both these establishments.

There are also houses where patients of a poorer class can
enjoy the benefit of the water cure.

Ilkley was a Roman station, and had, before the occupation
by the Romans*, been one of the cities of the Brigantes ; it is
called by Ptolemy, "Olicana." Some foundations of the
Roman fortress may yet be traced, and Roman remains are
not infrequently found in the vicinity.

The Church has been recently restored and partially re-built.
It is in the early Decorated style. The most interesting relic
of antiquity is a cross-legged effigy in the south aisle, usually
considered to ba that of Sir Adam de Middleton.

In the church-yard are three very ancient sculptured crosses,
concerning which much has been conjectured, but little
determined. They are delineated in lithograph in Professor
Phillip's well-known book on Yorkshire.

II. BOLTON AND BARDEN.

Inns : Devonshire Arms and Red Lion.

The drive or walk of six miles from Ilkley to Bolton is
extremely beautiful. The road follows the course of the

Wharfe on its right or western bank, and passes through the
village of Addingham, where is the junction with the carriage-
road from Skipton to Ilkley.

The visitor to Bolton who comes from Skipton in Airtdale
will not, however, travel as far south as Addingham. He
must pass through Draughton ; the distance is only six miles.

Bolton, with its Abbey and its woods, is justly acknowledged
to be one of the most beautiful spots in our beautiful island.
Whitaker, who was an enthusiastic admirer of this portion of
Wharfedale especially, has chararterized the landscape in
words which have often been quoted, but which the reader
will be glad to have before him in this place :- -

" Bolton Priory stands upon a beautiful curvature of the
Wharfe, on a level sufficiently elevated to protect it from
inundation, and low enough for every purpose of picturesque
effect. In the latter respect it has no equal among the
northern houses, perhaps not in the kingdom. Fountains, as
a building, is more entire, more spacious and magnificent, but
the valley of the Skell is insignificant and without features.
Furness, w r hich is more dilapidated, ranks still lower in point
of situation. Kirkstall, as a mere ruin, is superior to Bolton,
but though deficient neither in wood nor water, it wants the
seclusion of the deep valley, and the termination of a bold,
rocky background. Tintern, which perhaps most resembles
it, has rock, wood, and water in perfection, but no foreground
whatever. Opposite to the magnificent east window of the
Priory Church, the river w r ashes a rock, nearly perpendicular,
and of the richest purple, where several of the mineral beds
instead of maintaining their usual inclination to the horizon,
are twisted, by some inconceivable process, into undulating
and spiral lines. To the south all is soil and delicious ; the
eye reposes on a few rich pastures and a moderate reach of
the river, sufficiently tranquil to form a mirror to the sun, and
to the bounding fells beyond, neither too near nor too lofty to
exclude, even in winter, any portion of his rays. But
after all, the glories of Bolton are on the north. Whatever
the most fastidious taste could require to constitute a landscape,
is not only found here, but in its proper place. In front, and
immediately under the eye, is a smooth expanse of park-like
enclosure, spotted with native elm, ash, &c.. of the finest
growth ; on the right, a skirting oak wood, with jutting points
of grey rock ; on the left a rising copse. Still forward are
seen the aged groves of Bolton Park, the growth of centuries ;

2 4

and farther yet, the barren and rocky distances of Simon's
Seat and Harden Fell, contrasted to the warmth, fertility, and
luxuriant foliage of the valley below."

Bolton Priory is a foundation dating- from the twelfth
century. A monastery for Augustinian Canons was founded
at Embsay, in H2O, by William de Meschines and his wife,
Cecilia de Romille. After a lapse of 33 years "the canons
were removed to Bolton by William Fitz Duncan and his
wife, another Cecilia de Romille, the only child and heiress of
the founders of the house at Embsay." It was their son who
was known as the "boy of Egremond," who was, according
to tradition, drowned in the Strid, and whose death is said to
have been the occasion of the erection of the Priory at Bolton.

One of the chief points of interest at Bolton is the Strid, two
miles higher up the river, where the Wharfe is contracted
within ledges of rock, between which, especially when swollen
by rain, the river rushes with a deep and solemn roar, like the
voice of the angry spirit of the waters, heard far above and
beneath, amidst the silence of the surrounding woods. The
channel at this spot is little more than four feet across, and
is often leaped by the adventurous. Indeed, the word "Strid"
has usually been regarded as the same as "stride, 1 ' from the
possibility of striding the river at this point. But the true
derivation is probably from the Anglo-Saxon "Stryth," which
means turmoil, tumult.

This is the scene of the tragic incident which has been
versified in the well-known poem of Wordsworth, "The Force
of Prayer." We subjoin this poem, as not only giving a
romantic interest to Bolton Strid, but as embodying the
popular tradition as to the foundation of Bolton Priory. It
should be added that there is evidence that "the boy of
Egremond" lived to be a man; but the tradition may have
an authentic origin in the fate of some other member of the
family.

"What is good for a bootless Lene ? "

With these dark words begins my tale ;
And their meaning is, whence can comfort spring
When prayer is of no avail ?

"What is good for a bootless bene ? "

The Falconer to the Lady said ;
And she made answer, "endless sorrow,"
For she knew that her son was dead,

She knew it by the Falconer's words,
And from the look of the Falconer's eye;

And from the lov: which was in her soul,
For her youthful Romilly.

-Young Romilly through Barden woods

Is ranging high and low,
And holds a greyhound in his leash,
To let slip upon buck or doe.

The pair have reached that fearful chasm,

How tempting to bestride !
For lordly Wharfe is there pent in

With rocks on either side.

This striding place is called THE STRID,

A name which it took of yore ;
A thousand years hath it borne that name,

And shall a thousand more.

And hither is young Romilly come,

And what may now forbid
That he, perhaps for the hundredth time,

Shall bound across the Strid ?

He sprang in glee, for what cared he

That the river was strong, and the rocks were steep ?-
But the greyhound in the leash hung back,

And checked him in his leap

The boy is in the arms of Wharfe,

And strangled by a merciless force ;
For never more was young Romilly seen

Till he rose a lifeless corse.

Now there is stillness in the vale,

And long, unspeaking sorrow :
Wharfe j-hall be to pit /ing eyes,

A name more sad than Yarrow.

If for a lover the Lady wept,

A solace she might borrow ;
From death, and from the passion of death ;

Old Wharfe might heal her sorrow

She weeps not for the wedding-day,

Which was to be to-morrow ;
Her hope was a further-looking hope,

And hers is a mother's sorrow.

He was a tree that stood alone,

And proudly did its branches wave,
And the root of this delightful tree

Was in her husband's grave.
C

Long, long in darkness did she sit,
And her first words were, "Let there be

In Bolton, on the field of Wharfe,
A stately Priory ! "

The stately Priory was reared,

^id Wharfe, as he moved along,
To matins joined a mournful voice,

Nor failed at even -song.

And the Lady prayed in heaviness

That looked not for relief!
But slowly did her succour come,

And a patience to her grief.

Oh ! there is never sorrow of heart

That shall lack a timely end,
If but to God we turn, and ask

Of Him to be our Friend !

The foundation of Bolton was liberally endowed, and the
establishment, consisting of more than 200 persons, was well
provided for. Those who are curious in such matters should
read in Whitaker 's History of Craven the specimens printed
there from the old account books. Although Landseer's
well-known picture, "Bolton Abbey in the Olden Time,"
contains nothing specially characteristic of this Priory, it
serves to remind us how earth, air, and water, were all laid
under contribution for the supply of the wants of the saintly
brethren, whilst they were still in the fleshly tabernacle, and
abiding in the wilderness of earth.

Bolton Hall, a house of the Duke of Devonshire, is modern,
except the central part, which was the ancient gateway of the
Abbey.

Of the Priory, only the church remains. The nave, partly
Early English and partly Decorated, has been restored and is
used as a parish church. The lancet windows on the south
have been filled with modern stained glass. Below the
chantry chapel is the vault of the Claphams of Beamsley and
the Mauleverers.

" Pass, pass who will, yon chantry door ;
And, through the chink in the fractured floor,
Look down, and see a griesly sight ;
A vault where the bodies are buried upright !
There, face by face, and hand by hand,
The Claphams and Mauleverers stand;
And, in his place, among son and sire,
Is John de Clapham, that fierce Esquire,

A valiant man, and a name of dread

In the ruthless wars of the White and Red ;

Who dragged Earl Pembroke from Bamhury Church,

And smote off his head on the stones of the porch!

Oft does the White Doe loiter there,

Prying into the darksome rent."

The transepts and the choir are chiefly of the Decorated
period, and some of the tracery remains and is very beautiful,
althoug-h much is gone. At the east end is some arcading- in
the transition Norman style, very elegant.

A western tower in the Perpendicular style was commenced
in 1520 by Prior Moon, but was never finished. It is thought
probable that there was a central tower ; but no tower now
remains, and the want of one is the chief defect of Bolton in
the matter of picturesqueness, as compared with Kirkstall or
Fountains.

There are some traces of the cloister-court and of the
chapter-house The present rectory is on the site of the
monastery kitchens.

The church-yard is on the north side of the Priory. It was
hither, according- to the tradition and the poem, that the
survivor of the Nortons, Emily, attended by her White Doe,
was wont to repair.

" But most to Bolton's sacred pile,
On favouring nights she loved to go;
There ranged through cloister, court, and aisle,
Attended by the soft-paced Doe;
Nor feared she in the still moonshine
To look upon St. Mary's shrine;
Nor on the lowly turf that showed
Where Francis slept in his last abode.
There oft she came, there oft she sate,
Forlorn, but not disconsolate;
And, when she from the abyss returned

Of thought, she neither shrunk nor mourned ;
W r as happy that she lived to greet
Her mute companion as it lay
In love and pity at her feet."

And it was hither that, after Emily's death, the Doe is
represented as having- frequented her mistress's grave.

" Haunting the spots with lonely cheer,
Which her dear mistress once held dear;
Loves most what Emily loved most
The enclosure of this church-yard ground;

Here wanders, like a gliding ghost,
And every Sabbath here is found.

* # # *

But chiefly by that single grave,
That one sequestered hillock green,
The pensive visitant is seen. "

Bolton Woods contain some of the most delightful scenery
in all England. The visitor will do well to linger here ; it is
not the place for a hurried visit, but rather for a week of rural
leisure. It is worth while to reprint here Wordsworth's*
judgment upon the landscapes of Bolton, penned when these
scenes were less known than now :

" I cannot conclude without recommending to the notice of
all lovers of beautiful scenery Bolton Abbey and its neigh-
bourhood. This enchanting spot belongs to the Duke of
Devonshire ; and the superintendence of it has for some years
been entrusted to the Rev. William Carr, who has most
skilfully opened out its features ; and in whatever he has
added has done justice to the place, by working with the
invisible hand of art in the very spirit of nature."

Seats have been placed in some of the most eligible
positions in these woods, each of which commands a distinct
view with its own special charms. This accommodation adds
much to the comfort and enjoyment of the visitor.

The two following walks may be recommended to the
visitor to Bolton Abbey who is not pressed for time.

(i.) Start from the Holme Terrace and pass the Hall and
the Abbey. On passing the west front of the Abbey, the road
is regained. A walk of a mile will lead to a wooden bridge
over the Wharfe ; cross this, and a footpath to the left will
take you to Lud's Cave and Lud-stream Seat. Crossing the
bridge over Possforth Beck you will arrive at the Strid ; from
thence the visitor may proceed along the river to a point
opposite the mouth of Barden Beck, where he will obtain an
excellent view of Barden Tower. Hence, he may return by
the Oak, Clifford, the Strid, and Boyleford Seats, up Possforth
Beck to Lawn Seat, Buckrake Seat, and the Devonshire Seat,
from which the cascade is distant only a few hundred yards.
The Valley of Desolation extends for half-a-mile beyond the
cascade. The havoc caused by a terrific thunderstorm long
since has left traces which still justify the name of this valley.
From the smaller cascade at the top of the Valley of

* Note to "The White Doe of Rylstone.

Desolation, the visitor may return by the east side, and across
the park to Park-gate Seat, whence a very fine view may be
enjoyed. The wooden bridge must then be re-crossed, and a
footpath across the fields leads to the '-Devonshire Arms."

(2.) The second ramble commences by crossing the bridge
to the eastern side of the Wharfe. Take the first gate on the
left, which leads to a seat under a large elm at the river's
bank. The next seat, a circular one round an oak, is Skip-
house-wheel Seat, and may be reached either by the path to
the right following the beaten track through the field, or by
that to the left, winding round the base of the rock, and
ascending by a flight of rude steps. After passing the
Waterfall Bridge, the next seats are Cat-crag, Prior's, and
Prior's-stone Seats ; from hence there is a bridge over Noscow
Gill. But follow the footpath to the left to Burlington Seat,
and the way is plain to Simon's Seat, St. Bridget's Seat, and
so over the wooden bridge to Pembroke Seat. From this
point the best view of Barden Tower is obtained ; a rocky
island divides the Wharfe into two channels, it is fringed with
wood or meadow on both sides, and the forest trees are seen
towering up to the very base of the ruin. Passing in succes-
sion Lady Harriet's, the Cavendish, and Lady Georgiana's
Seats, you reach the finest point of view in the whole domain,
Hartington Seat. After enjoying the lovely landscape
which stretches before you here, you return to the Abbey.*

The imaginative visitor, lingering among Bolton ruins and
woods a summer day, will take pleasure in picturing the
aspect of the famous Priory in the olden time. The lines
of Wordsworth will help him to portray the scenes of
bygone days :

"From Bolton's old monastic tower
The bells ring loud with gladsome power ;
The sun shines bright ; the fields are gay
With people in their best array
Of stole and doublet, hood and scarf,
Along the banks of crystal Wharfe,
Through the vale retired and lowly,
Trooping to that summons holy.
And, up among the moorlands, see
What sprinklings of blithe company !
Of lasses and of shepherd grooms,
That down the steep hills force their way,
Like cattle through the budded brooms ;
Path, or no path, what care they ?
The description of the above walks is substantially that of Mr. Howson.

And thus in joyous mood they hie
To Bolton's mouldering Priory. "

BARDEN TOWER is chiefly interesting" as having 1 been the
residence of Henry Clifford, the " shepherd lord." His family
being 1 of the Lancastrian party, this Clifford was "in hiding"
among the fells of Cumberland for upwards of twenty years,
during the ascendancy of the Yorkists. After the accession of
Henry VII., and the r conciliation of the two factions, the
Cliffords, like other proscribed families, were restored to their
inheritance. The "shepherd lord" made Barden his home,
and about the year 1485 converted Barden Lodge into a
residence. About a century afterwards it became a ruin ; but
was restored by Lady Anne Clifford in the years 1658 and
1659, -as may be read in a curious and characteristic in-
scription still remaining- over the principal doorway. Though
entire, according to Dr. Whitaker, in 1 774, it has for some
time been again a ruin. The chapel, however, was restored
by the Duke of Devonshire, in 1860; and part of the adjoining
tower is used as a farm-house. The old key of the Tower
and a rusty halberd are the only antiquities belonging to the
place which are still preserved. The ruins are picturesque,
but by no means imposing.

The visitor may well muse upon the vicissitudes of great
families, as he lingers by

"The shy recess
Of Garden's humble quietness. "

And his reminiscences of the "good Lord Clifford" will
be pleasant:

"As Clifford erst in Barden's neighbouring lower,
The Shepherd Lord unscathed by civil jars,
Undazzled by the blaze of sudden power,
Trained his meek spirit 'mid the silent stars."

This Lord Clifford is said to have been a student of
astronomy and alchemy, in which studies he was aided by the
monks of Bolton. Notwithstanding his peaceful tastes and
habits, he fought at Flodden Field in 1513, and led the
warriors from the Craven country, who formed part of the
English host.

" From Pennegent to Pendle Hill,
From Linton to Long Addingham,
And all that Craven coasts could till,
They with the lusty Clifford came ;

All Staincliffe hundred went with him,
With striplings strong from Wharfedale,
And all that Halton Hills did climb,
With Loiigstroth eke and Litton Dale,
Whose milk-fed fellows, fleshly bred,
Well browned, with sounding bows upbend,
All such as Horton Fells had fed,
On Clifford's banner did attend. "

The "shepherd lord" died at the age of seventy, ten years
after the battle of Flodden, in 1523.

Distances from Sol ton : To Ilkley, 5 miles ; to Grassington,
IO miles; to Kilnsey, 14 miles, to Kettlewell, 17 miles; to
Skipton, 6 miles; to Harrogate, 16 miles.

III. UPPER WHARFEDALE.

From Harden Bridge a detour should be made to Gill Beck,
which, tracking a ravine rich in ferns and mosses, comes
down in a pretty waterfall. The views from the Home Seat,
and from Gill Beck Bridge, are very pleasing.

At Skyreholrr.e, near Appletreewick, the tourist should turn
aside to visit the gorge known as Troller's Gill. The way is
past Skyreholme Mill dam. Dr. Whitaker thus describes this
romantic spot: ''It is a winding but nearly perpendicular
fissure in the limestone rock, about half-a-mile in length, a
very few yards in width, and, upon an average, about 60 feet
high. The bottom forms the channel of a torrent, often dry;
but, when swollen by rains, devolving huge masses of lime-
stone, which interrupt and exasperate its course. On the
whole, Troller's Gill wants the waterfall, the depth and
majesty of the modern Gordale (the Gordale of the modern
Malham), but its general resemblance to the other, its sudden
contraction and perpendicular depression, give it an exclusive
claim to be the ancient Gordale of Appletreewick."

Near the Moor Cock Inn, Drygill, are the Stump Cross
Caverns,- -very extensive and containing stalactites of great
beauty.

Appletreewick (Inns : Craven Arms and New Inn) was the
birth-place of Sir William Craven, Lord Mayor of London,
whose son became the first Earl of Craven. High Hall, a
mansion in this parish, was the residence of Sir William.

From Barden or from Appletreewick may be made the
ascent of Simon's Seat, of which the " highest point is a jagged

head of grit rocks, near 1,600 feet above the sea, and
probably 1,000 above the Wharfe at Appletreewick, a mile
and a half off. The mighty rocks which are piled on its
summit appear like some monster fortress built by giants."
The viaw from this height is very beautiful, and extends
towards the east as far as York and Ripon Minsters. Simon's
Seat is also called Harden Fell East. Harden Fell West is
1,663 f ee t high; and thesj two mountains are geologically
interesting as "the highest points of the mill-stone grit, in the
broad ranges of that rock, east of Ryeloaf, and south of
Greenhow Hill."

The river Wharfe, which has hitherto, in its downward
course from Cam Fell, flowed through the mountain limestone,
here, near Hurnsall, enters the gritstone country; the change
in the landscape is very noticeable.

Burnsall (Inn : Bridge Inn) is chiefly noticeable from the
fact that it has two rectors, two rectory houses, two tithe
barns, and even two pulpits. Both the medieties have,
however, of late, been held by one and the same rector.

The church was restored in 1858-9; the ancient edifice was
repaired in 1612, as is recorded in the following inscription,
still extant:

" This church was Repaired and Butified at thonlie costes
and chardges of Sir William Craven, knight and alderm of
the citie of London. And late Lord Mayre of the same,
Anno dm. 1612."

Burnsall has a grammar-school.

Between Burnsall and Linton are Thorpe on the right bank
and Hebden upon the left bank of the river. Those who will
ramble by the river side, cross now and again the stepping-
stones locally called "hippings," explore the glens through
which the tributary becks come down to the Wharfe, and
climb the neighbouring hills, will find themselves richly
rewarded by most charming scenery.

At Linton are the "Falls of the Wharfe," which, after much
rain, when the river is flooded, are very fine. The falls may
be viewed from the wooden bridge, supported on iron pillars,
which here crosses the river. On the way to the bridge you
pass the tall cotton mill and a corn mill, which is said to be
one of the few " soke-mills " left in the country.

The church, which was restored in 1861-2, is a little lower
down the valley. Until recently, this living was in two
medieties, but by an order in council these moieties have been
united.

The tourist who is acquainted with the neighbourhood of
Bolton Abbey, and wishes to visit only the Upper Wharfedale,
may approach the valley from Skipton, by way of Rylstone.
The road, leaving Flasby Fell and Rylstone Fell on the right,
passes through the village of Rylstone. Of Rylstone Hall
nothing now remains, but some ruins of Norton Tower may
still be seen upon the fell. This district has been rendered
familiar to the reader of Wordsworth by the references to it
in that charming poem, "The White Doe of Rylstone."
Canto fifth opens with this stanza :

" High on a point of rugged ground,
Among the wastes of Rylstone Fell,
Above the loftiest ridge or mound,
Where foresters or shepherds dwell,
An edifice of warlike frame
Stands single Norton Tower its name
It fronts all quarters, and looks around,
O'er path and road, o'er plain and dell,
Dark moor, and gleam of pool and stream,
Upon a prospect without bound."

The road next passes the village of Cracoe, and then
approaches the valley of the Wharfe, either by Linton or
Threshfield. The bridge a handsome and massive bridge of
five arches is then crossed, and Grassington, on the other
side of the river, is reached, after a journey from Skipton of
between 10 and II miles.

Grassington (Inns: Jobbers' Arms, Devonshire Arms, Forest-
ers' Arms, and Black Horse) is a little town which has its fairs
and its annual "feast." Its importance is chiefly owing,
however, to the extensive and profitable lead mines which are
distant two or three miles from the town, and which those
who are interested in such matters will do well to visit from
here. There is a fine old bridge at Grassington, which, it is
said, is the only bridge over the Wharfe which has not at
some period been washed away by the impetuous stream.

Threshfield is on the right bank of the river, and has a
grammar school, where the learned Dr. Whitaker, the
historian of Craven, received his education as a boy.

Between Threshfield and Gordale, in a remote spot, are
the remains of what is called " The Druids' Circle."

The walk of about three miles from Grassington to Coniston
is very pleasant. On the way the tourist should pause to view
the rapids known as Ghaistrill Force and Ghaistrill Strid,

should linger amid the floral wealth of Grass Wood, or the
stunted but beautiful timber of Bastow Wood, and, better still,
should climb to the summit of Dew Bottom Scar, whence is a
magnificent prospect, or should make a detour to Trumla Ha'
and Dib Scar Glen.

At Coniston, half-way between Grassington and Kettlewell,
i a church, which has been recently restored, and which
contains some Norman portions, that have been preserved
with due care.

The visitor will, however, cross the river by the substantial
bridge, for the great attraction of this part of the dale is on
the western side ; we refer to Kilnsey Scar.

Kilnsey (Inns: Tennant's Arms and Anglers' Inn) is a
prettily situated village, where the pedestrian may halt for
the night.

Kilnsey Scar or Crag is a cliff of limestone, about 165 feet
in height, and extending nearly half-a-mile. The summit
overhangs to a distance of something like 40 feet. It is a
remarkably fine scar viewed from below ; though less im-
posing than Malham Cove, and without the interest given by
the river which issues from the foot of that glorious precipice,
Kilnsey, with its beetling top, its ledges and its fissures, and
its bold surface, here grey with lichen, and there green with
ivy and with bushes, has a grandeur and a beauty of its own.

The Scar may be climbed at the side. Startling on your
way rabbits from the bushes and goats upon the crags, you
may, without much labour, reach the summit, and you will be
rewarded by charming views both up and down the valley.

The first impression that such scars as Kilnsey give you is,
that they are sea-cliffs ; and this is the conclusion of modern
science. '-The great inland cliffs," says Professor Phillips,
"which are among the most striking phenomena of Yorkshire,
only differ from sea-cliffs because the water no longer beats
against them. The Hambledon Hills, the Wolds, no less than
Giggleswick Scar, were cliffs against a wide sea. Kilnsey
Crag was a promontory overlooking the primaeval sea-loch,
which is now the green valley of the Wharfe ; and the mural
precipices which gird the bases of Whernside, Ingleborough,
and Pennegent, formed the bold margin to similar branches of
the sea which extended up Chapel-le-dale and Ribblesdale."

It was to Kilnsey that the vast flocks of sheep belonging to
the monks of Fountains Abbey, which were pastured upon the
fells in this district, were annually driven to be shorn. "The

bleating" of the sheep," says Whitaker, "the echoes of the
surrounding- rocks, the picturesque habits of the monks, the
uncouth dress, long beards and cheerful countenances of the
shepherds, the bustle of the morning and the good cheer of
the evening, would, altogether, form a picture and a concert
to which nothing in modern appearances or living manners
can be supposed to form any parallel."

From Kilnsey the pedestrian may visit Dowker-bottom, or
Dowker-bottom Cave, at a distance of about two miles. It
will be well to take a guide, as the place is not easy to find.
The stalactites in this cave have been to a large extent
destroyed; but at any time the designation, "the miniature
Antiparos," must have been an exaggeration. There are,
however, two fine chambers. In this cave have been found
human skeletons and various relics pottery and Roman coins
indicating that, like the Victoria Cave, near Settle, this was
a retreat for British refugees. The bones of wild animals
found there prove that it was at a very remote time the home
of the deer, the wolf, and other beasts. The cave has been
examined by Mr. Jackson, Mr. Denny, Mr. Farrer, and others
given to the explorations now known as "cave hunting.' 1

A little above Kilnsey is the confluence of the Skirfare with
the Wharfe, and the junction of Littondale with Kettlewelldale
as our valley is called hereabout.

Littondale, formerly called Amerdale,

"The deep fork of Amerdale. " WORDSWORTH.

is a charming secluded valley, which the admirer of the
remoter and more primitive dales of Yorkshire will do well to
explore to its head.

The hamlet of Hawkswick is passed on the way up the
valley towards Arncliffe.

Arncliffe is the most important village in this valley ; and
indeed the parish of Arncliffe includes all Littondale. The
church has been restored, and is well cared for.

Beyond, and nearer the head of the valley, is Litton ; and
still higher, is Halton Gill. From Litton a road leads by
Nether Hesleden, Over Hesleden, Pennegent House and
Stainforth to Settle. From Halton Gill is a mountain path to
Raisgill, in Langstrothdale. From Arncliffe is a mountain
path over Horse's Head to Hubberholme, a distance of about
five miles.

Kettlewell (Inn : Marshall's) is a small market town
inhabited largely by lead miners, and altogether a primiiive
little settlement. It is a place of some local importance, has
three fairs a year, and gives its name to this portion of the
valley of the Wharfe. The river, in its descent from the
source to this point falls a depth of about 600 feet ! There
was formerly a small Norman church in this parish ; the
present is a modern one, containing, however, a relic of the
old edifice in a curious cylindrical Norman font.

Near Kettlewell are Dove Cove and Douk Cave the latter
is worth a visit.

From Kettlewell may be made the ascent of two great
mountains: one, "the weather-beaten Whernside, at whose
foot it stands ; the best time for which is in August, when the
heather is in bloom and the grouse are on the wing;" the
other, Buckden Pike. There is a road through the pass
between these heights, which leads through Coverdale to
Middleham in Wensleydale.

Still ascending the valley, passing Starbottom, we come to
Buckden (Inns : Cock, and Buck) which is the terminus of the
Wharfedale omnibus which daily conveys the " royal mail "
from Skipton, and daily performs the return journey down the
dale. From this point a road leads northwards by Bishopdale
into Wensleydale, which is touched t Aysgarth, a large
village four miles below Bainbridge.

Buckden is in a sheltered nook at the angle here formed by
the course of the Wharfe ; there are some good houses in the
neighbourhood. The beauty of the country has been improved
by recent plantations of fir trees, for which thanks must be
rendered to the Hon. Mrs. Ramsden.

Above Buckden the valley of the Wharfe is termed Lang-
strothdale, usually pronounced Langsterdale. Ascending the
dale, the traveller first reaches Hubberholme, where is a
church with very ancient portions, and a rood-loft dated 1558,
the year of Queen Mary's death. The church was restored
in 1863.

Langstrothdale is believed to be the <% toun," that "hight
Strother, ffer in the north," whence came the Cambridge
scholars of whom we read in Chaucer's Reve's Tale. The
story is considered to abound in samples of the dialect peculiar
to this part of Craven.

Above Hubberholme is Raisgill, and above this, Yocken-
thwaite; and then successively Deepdale and Beckermonds,

at the confluence of Outershaw Beck and Greenfield Beck.
The remotest hamlet is Outershaw, near which, on the slope of
Cam Fell, is the source of the river Wharfe.

On these moors abound the scarlet cloud-berries, or nout-
berries, berries larger than raspberries, but of a sickly taste,
which are used by the people for tarts and pudding's.

After tracing 1 the Wharfe to its source, we can sympathize
with the enthusiasm of the native of this romantic country,
(Mr. B. J. Harker) who thus apostrophizes his beloved
stream :- -

Oh ! deer owd Wharfe, sa clear and breet,

That I cud hear thee merrie sang,
An' ligg me on thee banks sa sweet,

Or wander by thee aw day lang.

I'd watch thee bonnie speckled fish

Sieze on the May-flee at a spring ;
An' view thee watters aw sa lish,

Bound frae the rocks, an' perlies fling.

An' now it maks my heart run hee

To think o' thease hours, tho' past ;
An' till ha dee, I'll thankful be,

Me lot be Wharfe wer iwer cast.

CHAPTER IV.

MALHAM AND GORDALE.

Inns: The Buck, and Lister's Arms.

( NE of the most interesting- and delightful excursions to be
made in Craven, and indeed in England, is that to
Malham Cove and Gordale Scar. These wonderful
productions of Nature in her sublimest moods may best
be visited from the railway station at Bell Busk, although it is
quite feasible to drive either from Skipton or from Settle.
The landlord of the Buck, if a letter be sent to him beforehand,
will send a trap to the Bell Busk station to meet the train. But
we will presume the visitor to be a pedestrian, and for his
bertefit, we will describe our own visit.

Leaving the station, we entered a gate and passed through
a farm-yard. Assured that the " road was good enough to
find," we pursued a footpath which led us sometimes across
the fields and sometimes through shady lanes, until we struck
the carriage road, near Airton. In the neighbourhood of
Airton are Calton Hall and Scotsthrop. From this hamlet,
which, as its name indicates, is on the banks of the new-born
river Aire, it is possible to proceed either by high road or
footpath. For ourselves, we never hesitate when this alterna-
tive is offered. We turned into the footpath near the cotton
mill, and pursued the course of the mill-stream, and then of
the river. We found it a pretty walk, commanding fine views
of the hills we were approaching, and the great "Craven
fault," as it is termed by geologists, which is so conspicuous
a feature of this district. A pleasant path it is by the
gleaming, prattling stream ; now a pair of kingfishers darted
across the brook into the bushes, anon an angler threw his
fly to tempt the wary trout ; the cattle gathered beneath the

shade of the ash trees in the pastures ; the lark carolled in the
heavens ; so the way seemed short to the stone bridge over
the river at Hanlith, where, turning- from the mansion and
park on the slope above, we admired the view of Kirkby
Malham, and its church tower and houses among the trees.

Instead of continuing- along the path by the river we bent
our steps towards Kirkby. Amidst the grey old houses,
dating from the early part of the iyth century, of which
there are but a few in the village is the large church, the
'kays" of which were duly procured for us. Its architecture
is mainly Perpendicular. Upon entering the nave the first
things that struck us were the niches in the west sides of the
columns, evidently prepared for small statues, and two old
corbels of a grotesque character, above two of the arches.
The pews in this church are of the true old-fashioned family
type ; we never saw so many square oak pews, with initials
and dates carved upon their backs. One is dated 1631, and
another 1649, and not a few of the owners have described
themselves and their quality by their initials followed by the
important letters, ESQ There is a handsome old font of
round shape, with dog-tooth moulding, probably Norman,
and a massive old oak chest. We were interested and
amused by two frescoes which have been brought to light
upon the west wall ; one of them representing a skeleton, and
the other a winged figure, marvellous specimens of art

The chief interest of the church lies in its connection with
the Lambert family, whose most distiugnished member was
the Major-General Lambert of the Parliamentary army.
There is a mural monument to the son, and a brass plate to
the memory of the grandson of the famous republican officer.
We climbed to the belfry, and upon looking at the three bells
descried an inscription upon the largest, which runs thus:
"JosiAS LAMBERT, 1602. Gon SAVE OUR CHURCH, OUR QUEEN,
AND RKALM." From this it appears that the Lamberts were
loyal enough to the throne in the days of Queen Bess, and
were driven into rebellion if it is to be so called by the
arbitrary acts and perfidious character of Charles I. From
the top of the steeple we enjoyed a pretty and varied view of
Malham-dale and its encompassing hills. On leaving the
church we noticed what seemed to be the fragment of an old
coffin-lid, of stone, with handsome cross decorations, let into
the wall of the porch, and in the church-yard the fragments
of a dilapidated sun-dial.

Perhaps the greatest curiosity of Kirkby Malham is the
signature of Oliver Cromwell in the parish registers. The
following- is an extract, with a fac-simile of the Protector's
autograph annexed:

"The intended marriage between Martine Knowles, of
' Middle House, in the p'ishe of Kirkbiemalhamdale, and
' Dorothy Hartley, of West Marton, in the p'ishe of Marton,
'was published three severall market dayes in the open
' markett place att Settle ; that is to say upon the 4th of
' December the first tyme, and on the nth of December the
'second tyme, and on the i8th of December the third tyme.
' 1655. And the said Martine Knowles and Dorothy Hartley
'was married the 1 7th of January, 1656, in the p'sence of
'these witnesses, Henry Mitchell younger, of Marton, and
'Anthony Hartley, of West Marton, and others before mee,' 1

(Viz. : Registered. )

Our preference for a footpath inclined us, when a little way
out of the village, to turn by a stile on the right into the fields.
The path we took soon joined that which we had left at
Hanlith, and led us past a cotton mill, through the valley by
the brook, where limestone scars rise upon the right, until we
came to Malham.

Entering the village by the Wesleyan Chapel, and passing
the Buck Inn, we kept to the left where the road forks, and
following a lane bordered with sycamores and ashes, soon
found ourselves in the open country. Many years before we
had made a pilgrimage to Malham Cove, and we were
wondering whether our recollections of its grandeur were
coloured to any extent by youthful imagination. As we
turned into the pastures, at the second gate on the right, we
were not charmed by the view of the ugly stone walls dividing
the hill-side before us into unshapely fields. However, we
passed through tho coppice of hazel, ash, and thorn, which
borders the brook in the valley, and presently stood in front
of and below the majestic cliffs. No! old impressions were
not unjust : for sublimity and beauty combined, few scenes in
England can rival Malham Cove. Before us rose an amphi-
theatre of white limestone, the summit of which is 470 yards
in breadth, stained with grey and brown and black, and

towering- to a height of 286 feet ! Running partially across
its front are vast jutting- ledg-es of rock, clothed \vith grass and
shrubs and trees, and 'projecting so far as to cast a shadow
upon the rock beneath.

At the base of this prodigious cliff the river Aire issues from
the subterraneous darkness into the light of day. Where the
rock is stained a vivid green with living mosses, and dyed
yellow and orange with the brilliant lichen, the pellucid water
flows into the sedgy pools and over the rocky bed. The
shimmer of sun-light was on the running, rippling water
current, and was reflected upon the rock which overhangs the
source, in a dancing, fairy-like shiver. Sitting under the
shadow of an ash tree, in that quiet August noon, as the
breeze stirred the boughs above us. we gazed upwards to the
lofty scar, watched the swallows dar. from their holes in the
rocks and soar and whirl in swift and graceful flight. How
grandly the white masses of cloud come moving over the
summit of the craggy cliff ! How sweetly, as the brook
murmurs on its way, and the soft air stirs in the boughs, is
the soul possessed with "the melody of woods, and winds,
and waters !

Turn from the majesty above to the loveliness around ;
admire the modest cranes-bill at your feet ; let your eye take
in the scene in all its richness and its beauty the plumy,
nodding grasses, the glancing stream, ihe moss-stained rocks,
the rude and lichened walls, the stately fern frond, the
fluttering butterfly, the water-hen startled in her haunt,
chuckling as she flies down t!v rivulet, and vanishes into
the hazel copse ! *

It is upon record that on rare occasions the waters of
Mai ham Tarn have overflowed this prodigious precipice. As
the height of the cliff is about double that of the famous Fall
of Niagara, it may be imagined how glorious a scene such a
catastrophe must present. Thomas Hurtley, of Malham,
writing in 1786, says: "From the apex of this Cove, after
what is in this part called " a rugg." or a succession of rainy
and tempestuous weather, when the water-sink at the southern
extremity of the Tarn is unable to receive the overflux of the
lake, there falls a large and heavy torrent, making a more
grand and magnificent cascade than imagination can form an
idea of."

After luncheon at the inn, we set off for Gordale Scar.
Following the road leading eastward from the fork in the

hamlet, in about a mile we reached a farm-yard on the left,
through which we passed, and guided by the course of the
brook, soon reached the famous gorge. The rocks soon close
in on either hand, terraced with grassy slopes between the
ledges, old yews and other tr es springing from their sides.
Where the chasm commences, the rocks, which are 300 feet
in height, become precipitous and soon overhang the narrow
entrance below. Those on the right over-arch in a way which
is imposing and terrific they are said to project nearly 60
feet. Scrambling over rough stones embedded in the soil, we
arrived at the foot of the till. Standing under the right hand
crag, which, with its beetling mass, threatens to overwhelm
the whole gorge, we looked up towards the fall. The stream
from the moors above comes hurtling down this frightful cleft,
pours its water through an immense natural arch of rock,
8 feet high by 15 feet long, through which you catch a
glimpse of the sun-light on the rocky piles towering behind
and above, and then plunges adown the chasm in a succession
of most beautiful cascades.

The young and active may easily ascend the Scar by
crossing the stream to the other bank, and climbing up the
face of the rock by the aid of foot-holes which have been worn
in the nearly perpendicular face of the limestone rock. The
views on the ascent and from the summit will well repay the
toil. Altogether, Gordale Scar offers a scene of surprising
wildness, and we cannot wonder that, to those especially
whose travels have been confined to our own country, it serves
as the embodiment of all their imaginations and all their
dreams of grandeur and savage wildness in scenery.

The present course of the torrent dates, it is said, only from
1730, when a violent flood of water found the vent through
which the mountain stream has since discharged its waters
into the vale below.

Gordale should be seem, so we were told by a farmer resident
in the valley, on a moonlight night during a severe frost.
The enormous icicles then adorning the chasm present a
spectacle of singular and romantic beauty. Probably few of
our readers will have the opportunity of testing^ for themselves
the glowing descriptions which have been giv. n of Gordale
on a frosty, moon lit evening.

Little Gordale should not be over-looked, simple as are its
pretensions compared with those of its ambitious neighbour.
On our way back we took a short path to the left which leads

to this picturesque and peaceful spot. Here the water falls in
larger and smaller streams adown a mossy rock. The
afternoon sunlight poured through the surrounding- ash trees,
and glanced on the descending water, the mossy rock, and
the ivied crag. The water lay beneath in a pretty and
transparent pool. Passing- by the stepping-stones over the
current at the head of a second fall, we paused to watch its
flow, as it gently stole into a wooded glen and disappeared
among- the overhang-ing- ashes.

On the other side of the stepping-stones 1 appears the mouth
of a small cavern, known as Janet's Cave, which, tradition
says, was formerly the abode of fairies. The spot does credit
to their choice.

About two miles from Malham, on the high land above the
Cov;- and Gordale, is Malham Tarn, the larg-est piece of
water in Yorkshire, being- about a mile across, and three
miles in circumference. It is situated in a secluded and
solitary region, and is 570 feet higher than the outlet of the
Aire already described. Malham Water abounds in trout
and perch. On its banks, and surrounded by plantations, is
the seat of Colonel Morrison.

If the visitor wishes to see the Tarn and to enjoy the
extensive views from the elevated ridge above both Malham
Cove and Gordale Scar, he may do so by climbing the slope
on the left of the Cove, making his way to Malham Water,
and descending by Gordale ; this he will find a walk of about
three miles. In a direct liru behind the Cove, will be
noticed a deep and narrow pass, closed by a lofty cliff, called
Coom Scar: in a flood the Tarn water not infrequently rushes
over here, and forms a second Gordale, but it is commonly
prevented from reaching the Cave by sinking, with singular
noise and rapidity, through the shattered and fissured stratum
at the foot of the pass.

Westall. Turner, and many other landscape painters, have
striven to depict on canvas these glorious scenes. And poets
have been inspired to sing by the high converse with Nature
they have enjoyed among these limestone scars and caves.

Even although Wordsworth's sonnets on these grand works
of the great Artificer are said to have been inspired by
pictures, and not by the realities, we think the reader will be
pU-rised to have them before his eyes when he is visiting the
spots to which they refer.

MALHAM COVE.

' Was the aim frustrated by force or guile,
When giants scooped from out the rocky ground,
Tier under tier, this semicirque profound ?
(Giants ! the same who built on Erin's isle
That Causeway, with incomparable toil !)
O ! had this vast theatric structure wound
With finished sweep into a perfect round ;
No mightier work had gained the plausive smile
Of all beholding Phoebus ! But, alas,
Vain earth ! false world ! foundations must be laid
In Heaven ; for 'mid the wreck of is and was,
Things incomplete, and purposes betrayed,
Make sadder transits o'er thought's optic glass
Than noblest objects utterly decayed. "

GORDALE SCAR.

" At early dawn, or rather when the air
Glimmers with fading light, and shadowy Eve
Is busiest to confer and to bereave ;
Then, pensive Votary ! let thy feet repair
To Gordale chasm, terrific as the lair
Where the young lions couch ; for so, by leave
Of the propitious hour, thou may'st perceive
The local Deity, with oozy hair,
And mineral crown, beside his jagged urn
Recumbent ; Him thou may'st behold, who hides
His lineaments by day, yet there presides,
Teaching the docile waters how to turn,
Or, (if need be) impediment to spurn,
And force their passage to the salt-sea tides !"

The reader will be interested in reading the language in
which the poet Gray, who visited Gordale in 1769, recorded
the impression the scene produced upon him :

"As I advanced," he says, "the crags seemed to close in,
" but discovered an entrance to the left between them ; I
" followed my guide a few paces, and the hills opened again
"into no large space; and then all further way is barred by a
" stream, that at the height of about 50 feet, gushes from a
"hole in the rock, and spreading its large sheets over its
"broken front, dashes from step to step, and then rattles away
" in a torrent down the valley ; the rock on the left rises
"perpendicular, with stubbed yew trees and shrubs starting
" from its sides, to the height of at least 300 feet. But these
"are not the thing; it is the rock on the right, under which
"we stand to see the fall, that forms the principal horror of

"the place. From its very base it begins to slope forwar'
"over you in one black and solid mass, without any crevice
"in its surface, and overshadows half of the area below
"in its dreadful canopy. When I stood, I believe, four
"yards from its foot, the drops which perpetually distil from
"its brow, fell upon my head, and in one part of its top,
"more exposed to the weather, there are loose stones that
" hang" in the air, and threaten visibly some idle spectator
"with instant destruction; it is safer to shelter yourself close
"to its bottom and trust to the mercy of that enormous mass,
" which nothing- but an earthquake can stir. The gloomy
"uncomfortable day well suited the savage aspect of the
" place, and made it still more formidable. I staid there, not
" without shuddering, a quarter of an hour, and thought
" my trouble richly repaid, for the impression will last with
"life."

There are several ways of walking from Malham to Settle ;
but we warn the pedestrian that no road will be found short,
or perfectly easy to find. To describe our own route :
turning westward at the bottom of the hamlet, we followed
an old green lane, and then a footpath, at first indistinct, but
afterwards clearly marked enough, until near some fir planta-
tions on high ground we reached the mountain road leading
from Kirkby Malham. From this point we had not the
slightest difficulty in finding the way. The road crosses the
shoulder of High Side, and is comparatively little used on
account of its steepness at either end ; for we met not a
solitary wayfarer, startling only the grouse or the lapwing
on the moor. There are fine views all the way, first down
Airedale, then across the plain to Pendle Hill. In the middle
of the moor the road divides ; one track leads to Kirkby,
another to Airton, the third i.e., our road- -to Settle. This
road leads by Scaleber and under Attermire, and descends
near Castleberg into Settle. But we found it a good three
hours' walk from Malham to the old Settle Station ; in fact it
was only by dint of a hard run the last two miles that we
saved the last train to Clapham, and our dinner at the
"Flying Horse Shoe."

From Malham, the pedestrian who wishes to visit Wharfe-
dale, may find his way, over the moors and mountains, to
Threshfield, a distance of seven miles, or to Kilnsey, a
distance of eight miles.

CHAPTER V .

SKITJ.K AXJJ GIGGLESWICK.

Inns: Golden Lion, Commercial, Royal Oak, White Horse.

When the poet Gray visited Settle in the last century, he
thus described the plact:

"It is a small market town standing" directly under a rocky
fell ; there are not above a dozen good- looking- houses, and
the rest are old and low, with little, wooden porticoes in
front/'

All is changed now, except the situation, which is as
pleasant and attractive as ever, and most conveniently central
for the head-quarters of the tourist bent on exploring Craven
and the new route to the north.

Settle is, at the present, a neat clean town, with an
unmistakeable air of prosperity. The population, at the
census of 1871, \va-^ 2,163, f whom 1,129 were males, and
1,034 females, showing an increase, during the decennial
period, of 577. The number of houses was 420. The
rateable value is 9197.

The Church oi the Holy Ascension was erected in the year
1837. This is a district church the parish church being at
Giggleswick. There are places of worship for Friends,
Independents, Wesleyans, and Primitive Methodists, and
there is a small Roman Catholic chapel.

The Town Hall was erected in 1832, upon the site of the
old Tolbooth ; the style uf architecture is Gothic,-- not of the
purest order.

There is a Literary Society which was established so long
ago as the year 1770. This Society has a library in the
Town Hall buildings, with upwards of 8,000 volumes. The
members, who are all shareholders, number between 70
and 80.

In the Town Hall is also the Club-room of the Chess Club,
which has about 40 members. The room in which chess, whist,
and other games are played is well supplied With newspapers.

Settle has also, in another part of the town, a Mechanics'
Hall, where is a fair library. Dr. Birkbeck. well known as
the founder of Mechanics' Institutes, was born in this town, as
also was Thomas Proctor, the sculptor.

There is also a Church Institute, with a reading" room,
library, and billiards.

It will thus be seen that provision, unusually liberal for a
small town, is made for the intellectual needs and for the
amusement of the population of Settle.

The fine precipice of limestone rock which rises behind
Settle, to a height of 300 feet, is the most prominent attraction
of the place. It is known as Castleberg. and formerly its
crag served as the pointer of a sun-dial whose hours were
marked along the hill-side by large stones. The grounds
are kept locked, but admission is secured by s small pay-
ment. Winding paths lead through pleasant groves to the
summit, whence is a fine view of Ribblesdale and the neigh-
bouring hills. As if a fear were entertained that the scenery
might be regarded as an insufficient return for the expenditure
incurred at the gate of entrance, artificial attractions have
been added for the benefit of the young, in the shape of
swings, see-saws, and merry-go-rounds.

At the top of the town, and just below Castleberg. is a
remarkable old stone house bearing the date 1679, with a
very large number of mullioned windows, some square and
some round headed. The house is known as "Preston's
Folly," having been built by a person of that name, v\ho, it is
said, was unable to finish it. In the middle and recessed
portion is the door, with singularly unique door-posts. Within,
there is a fine old oak staircase. The house is now the
dwelling of a farmer, and has certainly fallen from its former
splendour.

Behind this house is the Castleberg Well Spring, yielding a
copious flow of the clearest water.

The bridge over the Ribble, not half-a-mile from Settle,
commands a very pleasing view. The singular form of
Pennegent is well seen from this point. Archdeacon Paley,
who received his education at Giggleswick Grammar-school,
hard by, of which his father was head master, is said
traditionally to have gazed on the mountain from this point.

4 8

and to have likened its shape to that of a raised pie! On
the banks of the river are some cotton mills.

Less than a mile from Settle, and on the opposite side of
the Ribble, is the village of Giggleswick, oddly and yet
prettily situated within and around a gentle hollow. A stroll
about this village on a summer evening will be appreciated
by the lover of English rural scenery; footpaths lead beneath
stately sycamores and fragrant limes. The cottages are neat,
and the gardens well can.d for, and in the neighbourhood are
some handsome residences, each standing within its well
timbered grounds.

The Church is dedicated to an obscure patroness. St.
Alkald or St. Aikilda. It is of the 1'erpendicular style. Upon
tne pulpit are carved th emblems ot the 12 tribes, with their
names; on the desk is the inscription: "HEARE is THE

STANDARDES OF THK ISRAELITES WHEN THE TO CANAN CAM AGANKS

THE CANAANITES." Ther^ is a brass in the middle aisle to the
memory of the Rev. Wm. Paley, father of the celebrated
Archdeacon, who was of a Craven family, and who was for
54 years master of the grammar-school in this place.

Giggleswick School, dating from 1553, has become, of late
years, one of the most important institutions of the kind in the
north of England. The Board of Governors consists of the
Chairman, Sir James Kaye Shuttleworth, Bart., the Vice-
Chairman, Hector Cnristie, Esq., and fourteen other gentlemen
including members of Parliament, distinguished University
men, and persons of groat local influence. The character of
the school will be best understood from a few sentences in
the "General Statement' 1 which is prefixed to the official
Class List for Midsummer, 1876 :

" In harmony with the scheme of the Endowed Schools
Commission, the aim of the Governors is to provide adequate
instruction in the subjects mentioned below for boys up to the
age of nineteen who intend to proceed from school to the
Universities, to compete for appointments in the Civil Service,
or to pass the Entrance Examinations for the army ; also to
provide more completely than has been usual for the education
of those who wish to qualify themselves at school for their
business or profession.

"The intention of the Governors is that Giggleswick should
be a first-grade modern school, that is a school answering in
every respect to a first-grade classical school, except that the
leading subjects of instruction are Latin, Modern Languages

and Literature, Natural Science and Mathematics. Greek
except in special cases, and Verse Composition, are omitted.

"The whole internal organization, management, and disci-
pline of the school is in the hands of the Head Master.

"Religious instruction is given generally throughout the
school in accordance with the teaching of the Church of
England. But special exemptions are made upon the
application of parents."

Great attention is paid to Chemistry and the various
branches of Physics. The Governors have appropriated over
2,000 to the erection of the Laboratory, and the Lecture
room, and the provision of apparatus.

The arrangements for Boarders are worthy of note.

"The Governors of the School have recently expended a
sum of about 20,000 in building a large Boarding House or
Hostel, in providing Masters' Houses, and other buildings.
The Hostel resembles the most convenient boarding houses at
the best large English schools, containing numerous studies
for the elder boys, and dormitories so arranged that each
boy has a separate compartment. According to the Hostel
system the general management is in the hands of the
Governing Body, so that it is not an object to the Master that
profit should be made from Boarders. There is at present
excellent accommodation for about 130 Boarders."

Large additions have recently been made to the school
buildings. It is evident that the public appreciate the unusual
advantages of the school, especially the liberality and breadth
of the education given, and the moderation of the terms.

The present Head Master is the Rev. George Style, M.A.,
Fellow of Queen's College, Cambridge.

Beyond the village the road skirts what is known as
Giggleswick Scar. This is a range of limestone cliffs, which
marks the Craven Fault, a vast displacement of strata of the
highest geological interest. The visitor will find this walk
below the Scar one extremely agreeable. The bold rocks
are ornamented with ivy and the indigenous yew, and beneath,
the fir plantations and hazel trees clothe the broken and
stony ground.

There are several caves among these scars, of which the
most interesting are the Dangerous and the Staircase Caves.

But the chief feature of interest in this excursion is the
celebrated Ebbing and Flowing Well. This is a spring of
an intermittent character, which flows at irregular intervals

into a stone basin by the road-side. The visitor may wait for
hours and fail to see the performance, or it may chance to
occur more than once during his inspection. In very wet or
very dry weather it does not usually display its peculiarities
so freely as in seasons of moderate rain. Drayton, in the
Polyolbion, describes the fountain as ' sometime a nymph,'

" Among the mountains high

Of Craven, whose blue heads for caps put on the sky. "

Flying from a satyr she was changed into a spring; and

' ' Even as the fearful nymph then thick and short did blow,
Now made by them a spring, so doth she ebb and flow."

Modern Science gives a less poetic explanation of this
peculiarity. The curious intermittent action designated ebbing
and flowing is due to the singular passage of the water
through the channels and reservoirs in the limestone rock ;
syphon-like conduits of a natural character seem to connect
the chambers in which the water is stored. Variable pressure
upon the water in the interior, occasioned by diminished or
augmented rainfall, produces in this manner what appear to
be capricious ebbings and flowings. This solution, upon the
principle of the double syphon, was first given, it is believed,
by the late Thomas Har^reaves, of Settle, whose explanatory
model may be seen in the Library of the Institute at Settle.

The accompanying wood-cut will render this interesting
phenomenon easy of comprehension :- -

A, the great basin formed in the rock. B. the duct that
conveys the water to C, the smaller basin. D, the duct that
conveys the water from C to E, the well. F, crevices through
which the water escapes into the duct D when the stream is
not sufficient to fill the duct B. G, crevices through which the
water escapes from A to C, when A is overcharged. It will
be seen that B and D form each a syphon ; B draws off the
water from the basin A,* and fills the smaller basin C until it
runs over at D : now D being wider than B soon empties the
basin C, and then the stream ceases until C is filled up again,
thus causing the reciprocation.

The irregularity of the reciprocation is caused thus : B
draws off the water from A faster than it is supplied by the
spring, consequently A becomes empty, and no reciprocation
takes place until it is filled again to the height of the syphon
B, when the fulness of A causes a most powerful one, and

Ix-fure the well goes down to its proper medium, another, but
less powerful one, takes place, and the interval between each
flux and reflux increases, until A is emptied again. In dry
weather there is no reciprocation, because the water is in-
sufficient to fill B, and it escapes through the crevices F ; and
after much rain the basin C is too powerfully supplied by B
and the crevices G.

From Giggleswick Well, the visitor may climb the steep
hill above, called Buckhaw Brow, and thence to the summit of
the Ox Scar, whence a grand view may be enjoyed. Turning-
eastward, he may reach Ribblesdale at Stackhouse or at
Little Stainforth.

Above Stackhouse is a Cairn 80 feet in diameter, in which
human bones have been found.

Robin Hood's Mill is the name given to a spot between
Little Stainforth and Stackhouse, where a rumbling noise may
be heard below the ground, doubtless caused by a subter-
ranean waterfall, such as are not uncommon in this district.

Stainforth is a pretty village on the Ribble. Below the
bridge between Great and Little Stainforth, is Stainforth Foss

or Force, where the river, amidst beautiful surrounding- scenery,
rushes down a contracted channel. The view at this spot is
one that should not be missed.

On the Cowside Beck, which falls into the Ribble at
Stainforth, is Catterick or Catrigg- Foss, where the mountain
stream descends the glen in a cascade of six or seven falls.

The return to Settle is by Langcliffe, where is a modern
church, and in the middle of the valley a large cotton
(doubling) mill.

Langcliffe Hall is said to have been occasionally visited by
Sir Isaac Newton, who was on intimate terms with the then
owner of the hall, Major Dawson.

One of the finest walks from Settle is that over the mountains
to Malham.

The hills behind Castleberg are easily accessible. There
is a narrow road from Settle, by which the pedestrian leaves
Castleberg on the right and so g-ains the top of the hill.
There is a second road by which Castleberg is passed on the
left. There are splendid views of the south and west all the
way up, and from the top of the ridge. By the mountain
roads Malham is five or six miles only from Settle ; Gordale
is a mile further. The direction given us by a native was :
" Take the road leaving- Castleberg on the left, climb the
hill, and when some distance beyond it climb the ' bits of
hills ' further on." Walter White seems to have undertaken
the jcurney upon some such directions as these: "an old
man who was passing strongly urged us to keep the road ;
we should be sure to lose ourselves, ' and happen never g-et
to Maum at all.' " However, though in some doubt when in
sight of Stockdale, by keeping toward the east he found his
way. Not every traveller afoot, it should be said, has the
genial " Londoner's " notion of going across country.

Another excursion from Settle may be made to Long
Preston, where is a fifteenth century church ; and to Hellifield,
which boasts a " peel," or square tower, built by Lawrence
Hamerton in the nineteenth year of Henry VI. On the
other side of the river from Long Preston is Wigglesworth,
(Inn : The Plough), where are the remains of an ancient
hall, and where are sulphurous and chalybeate spring's, which
capricious Fortune has not been pleased to raise to the
reputation of Harrogate or Tunbridg-e Wells.

Distances from Settle : To Malham by mountain road, 6
miles; by Hellifield 14 miles; to Long" Preston, 4 miles;
to Horton, 6 miles ; to Clapham, 6 miles ; to Ingleton 10
miles.

Spa li'el!, Wiggleinvorth.

CHAPTER VI.
SCALEBEK, ATTERMIRK, AND THE VICTORIA CAVE.

@NE of the most interesting and enjoyable excursions that
can be made from Settle is that to the mountains
immediately behind the town. The walk which we are
g, about to describe.- is one that can be accomplished
easily in four hours, allowing time for resting, for admiring-
the waterfall, and for inspecting the Cave.

We took the mountain-road to Malham at the upper partof
the town, and with a little steep climbing soon found ourselves
on high ground overlooking the valley. Following this road
for a mile and somewhat more, we came to a bridge which
crosses a mountain torrent. Instead of crossing this bridg-e,
we turned over a stile to the right and a few steps brought us
within view of Scaleber Force.

This is a cascade of great beauty ; the stream falls down
the slope of a mossy rock, and presently vanishes in a thickly
wooded glen.

This walk might be prolonged to the summit of Rye-loaf, a
a brown and rounded mountain commanding an extensive
view. But we retraced our steps until we came to the road
which leads to Stockdale. From this road we turned off by a
stile on the left. Here we paused to enjoy a singularly
beautiful prospect. Before us stood a green mound known as
Sugar-loaf, or Salt-pie ; beyond, a magnificent assemblage of
rocks and cliffs : on the left, a mountain with craggy escarp-
ments, and crowned by a cairn : to the right, a succession of
low, broken, rounded summits; and still more to the right,
less broken and more even hill-tops, yet supported by per-
pendicular precipices. The entrances to the Attermire and
other caves may be seen from this spot ; the Victoria Cave
is hidden.

Advancing", we crossed the site of an ancient mere, from
which it has been surmised that the place derived its name
Otter-mere, corrupted into Attermire. We made for a gate
near the butts which are used by the North Craven Rifles fcr
their practice. We then ascended a rugged path, leaving
several hills known as Warrendale Knots and Beacon Scar
(Ben Scar) on the left, and Attermire Scar on the right, and
skirting along the base of Brentscar soon arrived at the
entrance to the Victoria Cave, which may be recognized by the
mass of di'bris on the slope below the approach. A glorious
point of view it is! And, though the ancient British dwellers
took refuge in this lovely spot for safety, and not for the sake,
certainly, of any picturesqueness in the views commanded
from this mountain abode, we could not but reflect that the
same prospect stretched before their eyes, which we, in
happier circumstances, were now surveying. In front is
Brent Scar. Looking to the left, over Barnoldswick and over
Gargrave. over Warrendale Knots towers Pendle Hill, near
which on a clear day, with the help of a glass, may be
discerned the town of Clitheroe. To the right is the valley of
the Wenning, and beyond, that of the Lune. Ingleton is
visible over Stackhouse ; Bentham lies in the valley, and
beyond is Bowlands. Still farther, are the hills about Lan-
caster, and a little more to the right, the summits of the more
southerly mountains of the Lake district heave in view. Just
below us is Ribblesdale, with Moughton Fell rising as its
western boundary. Looking more to the right, we see
Ingleton Fells, and on the extreme right the long flat
summit of Ingleborough.

The Victoria Cave is situated about a mile and a half from
Settle, in a north-easterly direction, at an elevation of about
900 feet above the town and the river Ribble, and 1440 feet
above the sea-level. We will tell the story of its discovery,
as told us by the discoverer himself, Mr. Joseph Jackson.

"It was," said he, "in the year 1838, the year of Queen
Victoria's coronation, that the cave was first discovered. It
was this that led to its being named 'The Victoria Cave.' A
dog was really the first discoverer; he went into a hole of the
rock and came out at another place This aroused my
curiosity. Entering in with some difficulty, I found that I was
in a cave, but a cave filled up nearly to the top. Creeping on,
however, I found it more lofty than at the entrance. The
roof was hung with stalactites, and the surface was covered

with bones of recent animals. Looking- among- the bones, I
discovered a coin, in a part of the cave where water drips in.
It was plain, therefore, that the cave contained remains of the
presence, not only of brutes, but of man. These chance finds
led to a search, and to the consequent discovery, not only of
bones and teeth, but of coins and other relics of human
occupation. At that time we worked to a depth of two feet;
and nothing", in the shape of bronzes and other antiquities,
was found at a greater depth than this.

"In the year 1870 a Committee was formed thoroug-hly to
explore the cave by digging and removing- the contents to a
depth of six feet throughout. Here we discovered many
Roman antiquities. In digging" a shaft near the entrance of
the cave, we met with bones of extinct animals, at a depth
of about 25 feet below the surface. At a greater depth than
this nothing was found. As we advanced farther into
the interior they were met with at a depth not exceeding-
15 feet.

"We have found teeth or bones of elephant, rhinoceros,
three kinds of bears, hyaena, bison, reindeer, wolf, andhippo-
potamus. A bone, said by high authorities to be that of a man,
was found along- with those of the extinct animals.

"The explorations are still going on under the direction
of a scientific committee. I am superintendent of the work,
and am there usually every day. The expenses are met
by a grant from the British Association, and by public
subscription."

The bulk of the bones which' have been discovered, and
many of the antiquities, are deposited in the museum of
Giggleswick School, and can be seen by application to the
Head Master.

Some few of the Roman remains are in the British Museum.

Mr. Jackson, who resides at Settle, has himself a small but
highly interesting collection of relics of antiquity, discovered
in the Victoria and other caves, which, on the occasion of our
visit, he courteously permitted us to inspect. Among the
many objects of interest this collection contains, we especially
noticed the following- : of stone, several whetstones, both
round and pyramidical, some fine round sling stones, a
variety of flint instruments, several discs (of uncertain use),
spindle-whorls, chert implements of different kinds. In some
of these implements are circular holes, the splayed form of
which seems to indicate that they were drilled with a blunt

tool. Of JIOM, many needles and pins of primitive forms, what
appear to be handles pierced in the centre, bone fibulae or
dress fasteners, arrow-heads and arrow-tips, shuttles, combs,
fish-hooks, and spindle whorls. Of glass, beads of various
sizes, portions of ring's. (There are also beads of amber.,
Of iron, spear heads, battle-axe heads, much rusted , ring's,
fibulae, and what seems to be a large key. Of bronze,
bracelets, fiibulae, ornaments, and various fragments. Of
lead, some pierced discs. Of silver, a circular-headed or
ornamented pin. There is also a small enamelled ring".

This collection also contains a few coins of much interest.
One bears on the obverse, " CONSTANTINUS MAX. AUG." The
reverse bears the legend "EXERCITUS," with the monogram
Constantine adopted after his conversion, compounded of the
initial letters in Greek of the name, Christ. This coin is
believed to have been struck at Constantinople. Another
urass coin is Hadrian's, between A.D. 117 138. It bears the
head of that emperor, with the face to the right. The
inscription in full reads, "!MP. CJESAR TRAJANUS HADRIANUS
AUG. P. M. T. R. Cos. III." Reverse, "MoNETA AVGVSTI,
S. C." Another coin is a third brass of Aurelian, between
A.D. 270 275. It bears on the obverse "!MP. AURELIANUS
AUG.." with the head of the emperor to the right, with
diadem and cuirass ; on the reverse, as nearly as can be
made out. is the sun, with two captives at his feet, and
'ORIENS AUG. XXI "

To return to our excursion : The old entrance to the cave
we saw upon our left, above us At the opening the cave is
nearly 100 feet in width, and is now about 32 feet in height
from the bottom to the top.

We soon found the sticky clay anything but an agreeable
carpet to the cave, and could have wished a pavement of the
stalagmite which was found in layers with clay above and
below it. The workmen were engaged in cutting and blasting
a more commodious roadway into the interior of the cave.
With their help, and by the light of candles, we explored the
more accessible parts of this singularly interesting cavern.

Chamber D is distinguished by a dome which rises, as a
kind of architectural feature, above the rest of the cave. In
this chamber were found bones in great numbers and variety,
--269 specimens for the year 1875 having been classified by
Professor Busk.

We next penetrated the Birkbcck Gallery, which extends to
a distance of 112 feet from the above-mentioned dome. It is
a long gallery, with holes or drops, which make it no easy
work to proceed to the extremity. A glazy moist stalactite
covers the walls. On the right, before entering the gallery,
is a small passage or hole, where bones were found.

Returning from the Birkbeck Gallery, we entered chamber
B, which is the finest in the cave This chamber is, with A,
upon the left as you enter. Water lies in the bottom, where a
shaft was sunk from above to a depth of 25 feet. The
stalagmite in this chamber was six feet in thickness.

Chambers A and B were the dwelling-places of the human
inhabitants who, in historic times, took shelter and refuge in
this strange retreat. Fancy pictured the unhappy refugees,
with the relics of their civilization about them, hiding from
the barbarian invader in these gloomy recesses, crouching by
their wretched fires, and feeding upon the flesh of their
threatened flocks and herds !

We next crept into chamber C, where is a well. In this
cavity no excavations have yet been made.

An admirable and most interesting account of the Victoria
Cave will be found in Mr. Boyd Dawkins' work on "Cave
Hunting,'' pp. 81125.

The interest of the cave is two-fold. It was the habitation
of human beings in historic times. The works of art which
have been discovered, and the evident traces of occupation
by civilized men, have awakened speculation, which seems to
lead to the conclusion that in the fifth century this cave was
a place of refuge for Britons who, after the withdrawal of
the Romans, were exposed to the invasions of the fierce Scots
and Picts from the north, and of the Angles and Saxons from
the south and east.

Mr. Boyd Dawkins says: "The presence of these works
of art, in association with the remains of the domestic animals
used for food, is only to be satisfactorily accounted for in the
way proposed by Mr. Dixon. Men accustomed to luxury and
refinement were compelled, by the pressure of some great
calamity, to flee for refuge, and to lead a half savage life in
these inclement caves, with whatever they could transport
thither of their property. They were also accompanied by
their families, for the number of personal ornaments and the
spindle whorls imply the presence of the female sex. We
may also infer that they were cut off from the civilization to

which they had been accustomed, since they were compelled
to extemporize spindle whorls out of the vessels that they
brought with them, instead of using those that had been
manufactured for the purpose."

But this Cave has not merely an antiquarian, it has also a
geological interest. There have been discovered in its cham-
bers vast quantities of bones and teeth of animals of various
species. These have been carefully arranged and classified,
and have served as material of great value to the geologist
in determining the climate of the region at various epochs,
and in describing the wonderful changes which its whole
aspect and its physical condition have undergone.

The fullest account of the discoveries which have taken
place in the Victoria Cave, since the publication of Mr. Boyd
Dawkins' work, will be found in the successive reports of
Mr. R. H. Tiddeman. furnished to the British Association for
the advancement of science.

One of the most noticeable among the ''finds " was a bone,
believed by Professor Busk to be a human fiibula, in beds
considered to be pre-glacial. This discovery has been deemed
important in its bearing upon the antiquity of man. The
presence of man is also considered to be indicated by certain
marks upon bones which, it is thought, must have been made
by instruments of a rude and primitive character.

The question of greatest geological interest upon which
light is believed to have been cast by the exploration of the
Victoria Cave, has been thus stated :

" Are the glacial deposits which rest upon the older bone
beds, containing the extinct mammals and man, in the position
which they occupied at the close of the glacial conditions, or
have they subsequently fallen into their present site?" The
former alternative is adopted. Mr. Tiddeman gives it as his
opinion that "it is clear from the position of the boulders
beneath all the screes, that they are a portion of the general
glacial covering of the valleys and hill-sides which was left
by the Ice Sheet at the time of its disappearance."

The ice-borne boulders in question are blocks of silurian
grit and of carboniferous limestone, with one or two of
carboniferous sandstone.

We returned to Settle by way of the hills over-hanging
Ribblesdale, and found this an agreeable variety of route. As
we neared the brow of the hill we paused to enjoy the view.
Opposite us, on the other side of the valley, the hamlet of

Stackhouse nestles under Kelko Wood. Beneath us lies the
village of Langcliffe, with its modern church, k and its cotton
mill in the middle of the valley, amongst the greenest of
pastures. On the right, Ribblesdale stretches northwards
towards Horton, the carriage-road and the railroad follow-
ing the course of the river. Away to the north-west rise
Ingleborough, Whernside, and the fells northward to Cam
Fell. Quite to the right is Stainforth, with its fine craggy
Scar, and Winskill behind it ; while the unmistakeable
outline of Pennegent completes the charming prospect.

Warrcndale Knots.

CHAPTER VII.

CLAPHAM AND INGLEBOROUGH.

Inns: The Flying- Horse Shoe, New Inn.

r HERE cannot be a more desirable centre for the explorer
of western Craven than the Flying- Horse Shoe, at

ljj Clapham. This hostelry is close to the railway station,
and is therefore conveniently situated for excursions in
which the iron road may be of service. The house is a neat
and unpretending- one. but it affords not only accommodation
but comfort in abundance. The landlord, Mr. Coates, has
kept the house for 21 years, and can give every information
about the country. Waggonettes, dog--carts, and flies, are
to be had. as well as saddle horses and ponies. The rig-ht
of showing- the famous Cave is entrusted to the landlord of
the inn. who can also procure g-uides for the ascent of Ingle-
boroug-h. Parties, staying- in the house have the privileg-e of
fishing- in the preserved waters. A farm is attached to the
inn. and the poultry-yard and dairy are consequently at the
service of visitors. Ten beds are made up in the house.
Distance from Settle, seven miles.

The walk from Settle and Giggleswick to Clapham is a
pleasant one. Near the road are Lawkland, Feizor, Wharfe
and Austwick. To the north are the slopes and rocks which
form the southern boundary of the mighty Ingleborough.

Austwick has been called the "Gotham of Yorkshire."
In former times, the Austwick "carles/' as they were called,
were credited with all the odd stories of stupidity currc nt in
Craven ; they seem to have been the general butts of the
wit of the country side. It was they who tried to get the
bull over the gate, who made an attempt to wall in the

cuckoo, to have fine growing spring weather all the year
round, who made an assault on a watch, "a tick 'em tack
'em fella wi' a lang tail," who stuck the parish whittle in
the ground under a black cloud, and wanted to know where
to find it next day, who wheeled sunshine into the barn to
dry the hay with, who interpreted the gurgle of a drowning
man in a pond, as ''good, good, good," giving rise to the
proverb, "The best at the bottom, as the Austwick carles
say."

On the hill called Norber, above Austwick, there is a
most remarkable group of Bowder Stones ; there are several
hundreds of them standing in th<j most eccentric postures ;
some are poised on single pivots, others apparently standing
erect in spite of their divergence from the centre of gravity,
and the outline of others bears a fantastic resemblance to
some living or inanimate thing. The largest contains about
four hundred cubic feet, and will therefore weigh little less
than thirty tons! The crust of the hill is limestone, but
below its edge may be seen the junction with the slate, Jhe
same as the Bowders. From this elevation there is an
excellent view, especially along the valley which terminates
in Ribblesdale, at Swarth Moor ; and, in this direction,
will be seen Wharfe Gill, a deep wooded glen with stream
and waterfall.

A walk of about a mile and a half brings the tourist from
the station to Clapham village, where is a very comfortable
hotel, called the New Inn. The village is a remarkably pretty
one. Clapham Beck, a bright, lively brook, runs adown
through the midst, and the houses are on either side. And
pretty houses they are, with their fronts covered with roses
and honeysuckle. The bridge commands a charming view
of the beck, as itmurmurs amidst the overhanging foliage.
At the top of the village, on the left of the stream, stands
the church, from the pretty grave-yard of which may be seen
a little waterfall, whose soothing music harmonizes with the
rural, peaceful scene.

But we must not linger here ; for it is to be presumed
that the visitor has come to Clapham that he may see its
wonderful cave.

Clapham or Ingleborough Cave is the property of James
Farrer, Esq. It is guarded at the entrance by iron gates,
which are kept locked. Admission is only to be obtained
by application to Knowles, the appointed guide, who has

filled thi-s office for 26 years : he lives in the village, in a
cottage on the south side of the river, between the bridge
and the church. It is necessary to apply at the guide's
house before leaving the village. Supposing that Knowles
is at the cave, and you have to find your way to the cave
mouth alone, you must apply to Mr. Farrer's steward for
permission to walk through the private grounds. This beauti-
ful route to the cave was formerly open to all comers, without
reserve, but the privilege was on several occasions so
shamefully abused that some discretion is now used in granting
it. Having obtained the necessary permission, you must enter
the grounds at the gate marked " Private," and keeping to
the road on the left all the way you will have a charming
walk of about a mile and a half to the gate which bounds these
lovely grounds. You must then keep straight on along the
path until you see the entrance of the cave on your left.

If you are fortunate enough to have the company of the
guide through the grounds, you may perhaps get a stolen
peep at a pretty little waterfall and rustic bridge which are
situated near the hall.

A charge is authorised of half-a-crown for two visitors,
and a shilling each for a larger party ; this pays for the
necessary candles and for the services of the guide.

There is no difficulty in exploring these subterraneous
galleries, unless it be considered such that, in one place, it
is necessary to proceed for several yards in a stooping
posture. The guidi advances first, and he and the members
of the party are supplied with candles fixed in a kind of
battledore. Here and there caution is necessary to avoid
striking the head against dependent stalactites.

The cavc-rn is in the limestone rock. The water that
flows gently through its passages, and that lies in its silent
pools, enters, it is believed, from the hill-side above, by a
cavity in the mountain, known as ''Gaping Ghyll/' where a
mountain stream falls into a cave 250 feet in depth. Many
of the stones which lie upon the surface, and the brown
sand beneath the explorer's feet, are of the mill-stone grit
formation. The entire length of the cavern was, until
recently. 702 yards, i. c. : measured to what was called the
"Giant's Hall." It should be mentioned that, although
what is termed the Old Hall has been known for a long
time, the rest of the cavern was opened up only in 1837.
But in 1872 a flood of unusual magnitude rendered the

further portion of the cavern inaccessible, so that the dimen-
sions of the present cave are far less than above mentioned.

An excellent plan of the cavern has been published, and
the visitor can inspect a copy in the entrance hall of the
Flying- Horse Shoe. The following are the several portions
as they have been named, in the order in which they
occur: After the Old Cave, the Vestibule or Eldon Hall,
the Stalactite Gallery, and then the Pillar Hall. A gallery
of some length then leads to the Ladies' Cushion and the
First Gothic Arch. The Long Gallery, where are the Second
Bells, leads to the Creeping Place, and beyond this is
Grimes's Arch. The remaining portions of the cavern, as
marked on the plan, are now inaccessible. Just beyond the
Creeping Place is an extension to the right, which is soon
found to be a cul-de-sac.

The stalactites and stalagmites are of varied, curious, and
occasionally of bee u i.ful character. They assume the most
fantastic shapes. Here is a pair of pillars resembling the
fore-legs of an elephant, there a bee-hive, and yonder a
jockey's cap. An inverted forest in one part depends most
gracefully from the roof; in another a bed of coral appears
to be growing downwards A massive pillar rears itself
mid-way in the passage ; by the wall a range of organ
pipes yield excellent music in response to the strokes of the
guide's staff. A fairy structure of slender columns stands
in a miniature cavern, and when lights are placed behind
it, is mirrored in a still, dark pool. There is "water,
water, everywhere; " in one place a pool, four feet and a
half in depth, reflects the candles' flame ; again, the water
drips swiftly from the roof; and yet again, a murmuring
waterfall breaks the quiet of the scene. Dripping water is
ever forming new products. In most paits of the cave old
water-marks are visible, shewing the height at which the
water stood before the opening up of the cave. The visitor
is thus reminded what gentle, but mighty force it was, that
shaped this wondrous, winding cavern beneath the massive
mountain.

A curious experiment was made by Mr. Farrer, to determine
the length of time occupied in the very gradual formation of
the stalagmites. The "Jockey Cap" was selected for the
purpose ; the daily drip of water was measured, the growth
of the stalagmite in six years was ascertained by observation,
and the proportion of solid matter in the water being known,

it was calculated that the "Jockey Cap'' had been 259 years
in course of formation.

The reader will be glad to have some authoritative account
of the processes which have contributed to the formation of
the marvels of the cavern. We cannot do better than lay
before him a few sentences from " Rivers and Mountains of
Yorkshire," by Professor Phillips, the most distinguished of
Yorkshire geologists.

'The roof and sides of the cavern are everywhere inter-
sected by fissures which were formed in the consolidation of
the stone. To these fissures, and the water which has passed
down them, we owe the formation of the cave and its rich
furniture of stalactites. The direction of the most marked
fissures is almost invariably N.W. and S.E., and when certain
' master fissures ' occur, the roof of the cave is usually more
elevated, the sides spread out right and left, and often ribs
and pendants of brilliant stalactite placed at regular distances
convert the rude fissure into a beautiful aisle of primeval
architecture. Below most of the smaller fissures hang multi-
tudes of delicate translucent tubules, each giving passage to
drops of water. Splitting the rock above, these fissures admit,
or formerly admitted, dropping water; continued through the
floor, the larger refts permit, or formerly permitted, water to
enter or flow out of the cave. By this passage of water,
continued for ages on ages, the original fissure was in the
first instance enlarged, through the corrosive action of streams
of acidulate water. By the withdrawal of the streams to other
fissures, a different process was called into operation; the
fissure was bathed by drops, instead of streams of water;
i these drops, exposed to air currents and evaporation, yielded
up the free carbonic acid to the air, and the salt of lime to the
rock. Every line of drip became the axis of a stalactitical
pipe from the roof; every surface bathed by thin films of
liquid became a sheet of sparry deposit. The floor grew up
under the droppings into fantastic heaps of stalagmite, which
sometimes reaching the pipes, unite roof and floor by pillars
of exquisite beauty. '" :;

Ingleborough is the grandest of the Yorkshire mountains;
although exceeded in height by Micklefell and Whernside,
its position and conformation givvi it a commanding interest.
It rises to an elevation of 2,361 feet above the level of the sea.

* For a very vivid description of this cave the reader is referred to Mr. W. White's
"Month in Yorkshire."

The name is variously explained : it may be the mountain
of the ingle or beacon, or the mountain of the Angles, the
English.

The mountain is usually climbed from Clapham on the south
side. No difficulty is encountered in the ascent. The easiest
and most gradual path is from the old road between Clapham
and Ingleton, about half way between the two villages, and
there is a cart-road from this point to the summit. From
Settle, the nearest route is by the bridle path on the right
from the top of Buckhaw Brow to Feizor, through Wharfe,
and by a farm-house on the fell, called Crummock.

The ascent of Ingleborough from Chapel-le-dale is one of
some interest. On the way you pass a " vast plateau" of huge
blocks of limestone, set with a regularity as if a paviour had
placed them there." The view gradually expands northwards
and eastwards. The latter part of the climb is somewhat
rugged and steep.*-

Ingleborough has geological peculiarities which are de-
serving of attention. "Its conical mass,'' says Phillips, "is
crowned by a nearly flaNcap of mill-stone grit, and is founded
on a vast tabular surface of time-worn limestone rocks, these
in their turn supported by huge cliffs of massy and slaty
silurian strata."

The summit of Ingleborough is very remarkable. It is a
vast flat, nearly a mile in circumference. The joke in Craven
is that there used formerly to be horse races on this singular
level.

Ingleborough was a great hill fort, probably of the Britons.
The line of defence was a wall constructed like some still
existing in North Wales. Some horse-shoe shaped hut
foundations still remain. They may be compared with those
still so perfect on Yr Eifel in Carnarvonshire.

The view from the top of Ingleborough has been thus
graphically described by Mr. Dobson :

" Whernside kept guard before us on the north, and allowed
us no peep into the dales beyond, but over its lofty summit we
saw some distant hills. To the east there was Penyghent,
with the valley of the Ribble stretching southward towards
Settle, and northwards to its source. To the south was a
beautiful and varied landscape, our view being bounded by
the broad mass of Pendle, whose summit is so prominent an

For an interesting account of an ascent of Ingleborough from Chapel-le-dale, sec
Mr. Win. Dobson's " Rambles by the Ribble."

object from the greatest part of the Ribble valley ; and the
more humble peak of Longridge. To the west there was a
beautiful extent of country stretching' towards Morcambe,
whose expansive sands, covered with the high tide, were
broken by Warton Crag and Arnside Knott. In the distance
Peel Castle can often be seen. Nearer us the Crook of Lune
could be traced in the winding's of that beautiful river, whose
stream, like a blue streak in the landscape, was visible ; and
Hornby Castle appeared a picturesque spot on its proud
eminence. A cloud hid from us John O'Gaunt's old castle at
Lancaster. The Furness Fells were spread before us in their
picturesque grouping, as well as some others of the lake
mountains. We could not discern the estuary of the Ribble,
though it is often seen from the top ; indeed, at times the
mouths of the Mersey and the Dee are discernible, whilst the
glass discloses the peaks of the Isle of Man."

Mr. Dobson adds some particulars as to the botanical
wealth of Ingleborough.

CHAPTER VIII.

INGLKTON, CHAPEL-LE-DAT.E, AND KINGSDAI.K.

Inns: At Ingleton, Ingleborough Hotel; at Chapel-le-dale.
the Hill House; at Ribble H-'ad, Gearstones Inn.

"E started from Ingleton early in the morning-, for a
long" day's work lay before us. In this picturesque
village meet the two rivers, Doe and Greta, the
former, often called the Thornton Beck, flowing- down
from Kingsdale. The view from Ingleton church-yard is
very pretty. The ground is strangely broken up, and the
houses of the village are dotted about the hill-side. There is
a cotton mill close by the "meeting- of waters," and further
down, a handsome viaduct, by which the railway to Kirkby
Lonsdale crosses the valley. A deaf old man let us into the
church, and told us that he had a " awp .. nnv " a day for
winding- the church clock, which mad'-, as he calculated,
a yearly salary of 15s. 2.d. Beyond this information his
powers of speech seemed enable to go further than a groan
of "Ay," in answer to 'every remark. The church having
been rebuilt in 1743, "at the charge of the inhabitants," has
a very plain and very modern look about it, except the
arches and pillars within, and the tower. Antiquarians,
however, would be charmed with the old Norman font, which
for a long" time was unused and neglected, but which is really
very interesting-, with its interlaced round arched arcading",
and its twelve carved figures, including- "Christ riding" upon
an ass. 1 '

There was formerly no tolerable hotel at Ing-leton, but four
or five years ago was opened the Ingleborough Hotel, a large
handsome house.

Leaving- the village and turning- to the left, we were soon
in the lonely valley of the Greta, where for four miles, we met
no human being". Between the rocky broken moors of Ingle-
borough, which Gray called "that huge monster of nature,"
and an older writer ''that huge creature of God,'' on the
right, and the slopes ot Whernside on the left, the road runs
parallel wijh the Greta, through a scene of desolation indeed.
If it struck us as such on a bright August morning, what must
be the impression it creates in the twilight of a drear
December afternoon ? Passing the mountain torrents which
came down the slopes crowned by the craggy escarpments of
limestone, we proceeded up the valley, which seems given up
to the innumerable lapwings, whose pitiable cry appears to
harmonise with the wild solitude of the dale.

At length we reached what seemed to be the source of the
river, in a little hollow in the valley below the road. Crags
stained with lichen rise above the source, and the bright
grassy banks contrast pleasingly with the rocks. But the fact
is. this is no source. The Greta has only been playing" the
pranks common to these rivers in the limestone; tired, as it
were of daylight, it tak<;-s a plunge into the darkness beneath,
and. after a subterranean course, reappears in full flow, and
with a swift current, on the surface of the earth ! However,
it is a lovely and romantic spot. From this point the scenery
becomes less wild, and a tew ash trees, thorns, and hazels
adorn the valley. But there is no Greta; only a dry torrent
bed.

We now reached the prettily situated hamlet of Chapel-le-
Dale. The tiny church, which has been immortalized by
Southey in his Doctor. " is the only place of worship within
many a mile in fact between Ingleton and Hawes. and the
congregation the clergyman told us consists of people who
come from a distance, some of them as far as six miles. The
little flaxen haired maiden of eight, who showed us the
church, very touchingly pointed to a little grave, saying.
'That's my brother's! " Entering" the church, we found that
it had been restored and re-pewed in 1869; it has some
modern painted windows, with memorial brasses.

The reader will be pleased to peruse, in this place. Southey's
charming description of this secluded spot.

"The little church, called Chapel-le-Dale. stands about a
bow-shot from the family house. There they had all been
carried to the font ; there they had each led his bride to the

altar ; and there they had, each in his turn, been borne upon
the shoulders of their friends and neighbours. Earth to earth
they had been consigned there for so many generations, that
half of the soil of the church-yard consisted of their remains.
A hermit who might wish his grave to be as quiet as his cell,
could imagine no fitter resting place. On three sides was an
irregular low stone wall, rather to mark the limits of the
sacred ground, than to enclose it; on the fourth it was bounded
by the brook whose waters proceed, by a subterranean
channel from Weathercote Cave. Two or three alders and
rowan trees hung over the brook, and shed their leaves and
seeds into the stream. Some bushy hazels grew at intervals
along the lines of the wall ; and a few ash trees as the winds
had sown them. To the east and west some fields adjoin it in
that state of half-cultivation which gives a human character
to solitude : to the south, on the other side of the brook, the
common, with its limestone rocks peering everywhere above
the ground, extended to the foot of Ingleborough. A craggy
hill, feathered with birch, sheltered it from the north.

The turf was as soft and fine as that of the adjoining hills ;
it was seldom broken so scanty was the population to which
it was appropriated ; scarcely a thistle or a nettle deformed
it, and the few tomb-stones which had been placed there, were
now themselves half-buried. The sheep came over the wall
when they listed, and sometimes took shelter in the porch
from the storm. Their voices and the cry of the kite wheeling
above were the only sounds that were heard there, except
when the single bell which hung in it niche ovr the entrance-
tinkled for service on the Sabbath day. or with a slower
tongue gave notice that one of the children of the soil was
returning to the earth from which he sprung."

The great sight of th<.- place is Weathercote, to see which
the visitor must turn in at a gate on the left hand side of the
road, and apply at Mr. Metcalfe's house for admission, for
which a shilling is charged to each visitor. The reader of
Mr. Boyd Dawkins' book on "Cave Hunting." will remember
the interesting diagram given to show how the Greta, or
Dalebeck (as he calls it) pursues an underground course in
the clefts of the limestone, and how it is fed by the water
which flows down Weathercote, and reveals its presence at
Jingle Pot, and again at Hurtle Pot.

A door admits to a little grove from which a flight of rough
hewn steps leads down to ; the cave. You pass under a spacious

natural arch, and emerge into a vast cave open to the sky.
The air of the cave is filled with spray ; and this seems
natural enough when you look before you. A glorious water-
fall, coming from the recesses of the limestone, plunges into
the abyss below. It is a grand and memorable scene. Rocks
tower above before on each side. The precipitous cliffs
are clothed with moss, and sparkle with myriads of spray
drops. As the sun shines out a lovely rainbow spans the cave ;
and on such a forenoon as we saw it, comes and goes with
sunshine and cloud. But we wished to have a nearer view of
the cascade, and scrambled down, amidst loose masses and
fragments of rock, into the hollow beneath. Crags overhang
your head ; the everlasting boom of the waterfall possesses
your hearing; the air is filled with spray; the rainbow
changes its form as you alter your position. Look up ! Ferns
and grasses wave on the heights above ; the sycamores meet
over the chasm to whose depths you have descended; the
patch of blue sky discernible above the cave is flecked by
clouds. And now we rushed behind the fall, but only to
retreat, for a few seconds will suffice to drench the adventurer
to the very skin.

Jingle Pot is dry and uninteresting; but Hurtle Pot is well
worth seeing. It is a vast circular opening in the earth, with
sycamores and beeches meeting overhead. By an opening to
the south the descent is practicable down a bank of sand. At
the bottom we found a deep, rocky-bedded pool. The play of
sunlight penetrating the trees above gleamed upon the water,
and created a tremulous light upon the rocky side. \Y<
peered into the cavern containing the water: nothing but
ness, darkness, and drip ! The scene must be awsome
on a gloomy or stormy day. Needless to say. the place is
haunted by a ''boggart! "

We proceeded on our journey, and looking back, admired
the flat summit of Ingleborough. and turning to our left saw
the L-ss memorable but even loftier Whernside. The valley
opened, and we were upon a tract of moss and ling. This
was Batty Moss a spot famous in the annals of the Settle
and Carlisle railway. There was the viaduct and t mbankment
which tested so severely the resources of the engineers, and
which is a lasting monument of their science and perseverance.
On our way through the navvy town, whose wooden walls and
felt-tarred roofs we had often noticed from the line, we had a
chat with a blacksmith who told us that a fair number of

railway employes are still left at Batty Green. The houses,
he said, were comfortable, and the situation healthy, but
it was lonely, and '-hard to leave," and there was no
place of worship now, and no school for the children nearer
tnan Chapel-le-Dale.

KINGSDALE.

The westerly of the two valleys which meet at Ingleton is
K.ingsdale, which is threaded by the river Doe. This is a
desolate valley enclosed between the mountains of Graygarth
and Breadagarth.

You may explore this dale either from Ingleton, or from the
upper part of Chapel-le-dale ; in which latter case you should
visit Gatekirk Cave on the way, and proceed westward across
the moors, and so in three miles strike the upper part of
Kingsdale.

Thornton village -or rather the church and inn, are only a
mile from Ingleton. The Force is some distance eastwards.
There are two small falls and a large one, "over a high wall
of limestone, lying horizontally on the vertical slate strata, out
of fissures of which are growing the ash, the elm, the yew,
the hazel, the holly, and the thorn. The stream, ere it takes
its final leap, drops in murmuring tones from step to step in
its rocky bed above, and then, with spray and roar, dashes on
the projecting slate to gain a more tranquil course in the deep
fosse below." The rocks on the left rise to a height of
90 feet. Access to a rocky seat behind the falls may be
gained by following a path which crosses a tiny stream to the
left of the fall.

If the tourist be young and nimble he may follow the river
Greta upwards from Ingleton to the falls, and he will be
rewarded with some beautiful bits of romantic river scenery.
He must not, however, fancy he has reached Tnornton P'orce
when he comes to the fir>t waterfalls. After an inspection of
these he had better climb to the high bank on the left, and
keeping to the footpath, in about half a mile the glorious sight
of Thornton Force, --by some considered the finest waterfall
in the district will fill him with wonder and delight.

A fine pile of rocks above the falls, named Ravenwray, rise
50 or 60 feet on each side of the river; they have sonic;
resemblance to a lofty bridge with its arches washed away.

Four and a half miles north of Ingleton, is Yordas Cave, so
named after a traditional giant, whose chamber and oven are
pointed out. There are two chambers : the first 90 yards long

by more than 20 high ; the second circular, and tapering- 50
feet to its pointed roof. In the second apartment is a cascade.
In wet weather this cave is flooded, and traces of these
occasional deluges are very evident.

Yordas Cave abounds in stalactites and stalagmites, many
of most curious forms. As is usually the case, these singular
productions of nature have been named after the objects they
are supposed to resemble. To view Yordas Cave, an appoint-
ment must be made with Mrs. Whittingdale, of Westhouse,
Bentham, who furnishes a guide.

An exploration of the rocky bed of the river Greta, com-
mencing at the old slate quarries on the north-east side of the
Storrs, near Ingleton, will well repay the tourist for his trouble,
as here may be seen some of the wildest sights of this romantic
district. For an account of this expedition, and the many other
curious caves and rocks in this neighbourhood, we would
refer our readers to Mr. Carr's capital little book, "Rambles
about Ingleton/' which may be purchased in the village.

Whernside should be ascended from the east or south east,
as it is precipitous and difficult on the western side towards
Dentdale. The summit commands views which are fine and
extensive, but on the whole inferior to those from Ingleborough.
There are three tarns near the summit of the mountain.

Wtatkercate.

CHAPTER IX.

THE LOWER RIBBLESDALE.

f~~~HE scenery in south-west Craven, that is, so much of the
valley of the Ribble below Long Preston, as is in the
county of Yorkshire, is very different from the rest of
the district. Instead of mountains, scars, and torrents,
we have here a pretty river-course and valley, with bordering
pastures and fertile lands, adorned by several gentlemen's
seats surrounded by extensive parks. The scenery is no
longer wild and romantic ; but it is very pleasing, and there
are sites and mansions of much antiquarian and historical
interest.

The Skipton and Colne railway will not be found of much
use in exploring this country. The traveller from Lancashire
will do well to enter Craven by Clitheroe, and take Sawley,
Bolton and Gisburne, on his way to Skipton. But we will
presume the tourist to be at Skipton, and to start for a long
clay's excursion to end at Settle. In this case, he should hire
a trap and be driven as far as Gisburne, and walk the rest of
the way. Better still, to give two days to the excursion and
sleep at Gisburne.

The first place on thi road is Broughton, near which is
Broughton Hall, which has been for four centuries the home
of the Tempests one of the oldest families in Craven. The
church, like that at Kirkby Malham, has niches for statues on
the west sides of the columns.

East and West Marton are next passed. Marton Hall was
the residence of the ancient family of the Hebers. Gledstone
Hall stands on high ground and commands fine views.

Between Marton and Gisburne the tourist may take a road
to the left and visit Bracewell and Barnoldswick. At Brace-
well are ruins of two halls, the older one of stone, the more

modern one a brick building of the time of Henry VIII. This
was the ancient home of the elder branch of the family of
Tempest.

Barnoldswick is chiefly noticeable as having been the first
site occupied by the Cistercian monks from Fountains, who
removed to Kirkstall. Henry de Lacy began to build a
monastery here in 1 147 ; but the ravages of the Scottish
marauders, and the unkindly climate, seem to have disgusted
the monks, for, after six years only, they forsook the place for
the more secure and fertile site in the valley of the Aire.

Gisburne (Inns : Ribblesdale Arms, New Inn] is a neat little
town on the east bank of the Ribble, about twelve miles from
Skipton. It has a well-frequented rattle market. The church
has some stained glass, and some monuments to the first
and second Lords Ribblesdale, and to Sir John Asshtton.
Gisburne Park, at the confluence of the Ribble and Stockbeck,
is famous for having, until lately, grazed a herd of wild cattle,
which were probably descendents of those that ranged the
forests of North Lancashire and the West Riding. They
were of pure white colour, except the tip of the nose, the ears,
and the feet, and were without horns. They gradually
diminished in number, and the last survivors were killed off
in 1859. The hall contains some good pictures. There is
also a curious old drinking horn, <i a buffalo horn nearly 20
inches long, and containing about two quarts ; it is supported
on three silver feet resembling those of a man in armour.
Round the middle is a filleting inscribed, 'Qui PUGNAT CONTRA
TRES PERDI-.T DUOS,' a seasonable though rather inconsistent
warning to those who are invited to drink of it." i Whiiaker).
" Who tackles this three-legged horn will lose the use of the
two legs he stands on,' ? likely enough, considering the
capacity of the vessel and the frailty of man !

In the Park, on the high bank of the Ribble, are the
remains of a small square fort, called Castle Hough, and near
it an ancient barrow.

Gisburne has been for several centuries the home of the
family of Lister, by whose head and representative, Lord
Ribblesdale, the place is still possessed.

Between Gisburne and Bolton the banks of the Ribble are
very beautiful. Part of their beauty is owing to the abundance
of timber, of which very much was planted by the first Lord
Ribblesdale.

At a bend in the river is Denham Wheel, where the water
whirls round with some velocity.

Three and a half miles from Gisburne, and about the same
distance from Clitheroe in Lancashire, are the ruins of Sawley t
or Salley Abbey. The remains are scanty ; and many of the
sculptured stones, once forming- part of the abbey, may be
seen built into the houses of the village, into the walls of the
mill at Gisburne, and elsewhere ; for the ruins seem to have
been used as a common public quarry. They may be
recognised by the armorial bearings of the great families of
the district, Percys, Tempests, Lacys, Hamertons, Ac.

The monastery was founded by William de Percy, in 1 147,
and was colonized from Newminster, an off-shoot of Fountains.
The Cistercian brotherhood seem to have been given to
complaining', and apparently not without reason, both of
damages sustained by the incursions of the Scots, and of the
ungenial climate in which their lot was cast. They were also
given to quarrelling with the monks of the neighbouring
Abbey of Whalley in Lancashire. The last abbot of Sawley,
William de Trafford, took part in the " Pilgrimage of Grace,"
and was hanged at Lancaster for that crime ; as was his
brother abbot of Whalley, two days after, at his own place.
Upon the suppression of the foundation, Sawley was granted
to Sir Arthur Darcy ; it is now the property of Earl de Grey.

Recent excavations have brought to light the whole ground
plan of the monastic buildings, which previously were very
imperfectly traceable. The dimensions of the abbey church
are very unusual. The length of the church is 185 feet, of
which the nave is only 40 feet, while the choir occupies 116
feet. The transepts measure from end to end 1 25 feet. The
transept has three eastern chapels in each wing.

There have been discovered some interesting fragments of
tessellated pavement, and several monumental slabs. Here
were buried Sir Robert de Clyderhow, Parson of Wigan, and
Sir William de Rimington, Prior of Sawley and, in 1372,
Chancellor of the University of Oxford.

Two miles from Sawley, and higher up the Ribble, is the
very pleasant village of Bolton-by-Bowland, so called to
distinguish it from the other Boltons in the county. The
village has a green, and on it is a stone cross. Bolton church
is interesting chiefly for the monuments it contains, to the
Pudsays and their descendants, the Dawsons and Littledales.
One monument is believed to be that of Sir Ralph Pudsay :

he is represented in relief with his three wives and twenty-five
children ! There is a handsome octagon font of grey marble,
with armorial bearings of Pudsays and allied families.

Bolton Park is undulating and well timbered ; and the hall
is superbly situated. This is deemed the most ancient
mansion in Craven ; the banqueting hall dates from the time
of Edward III. With Bolton Hall are associated memories of
the unfortunate Sixth Henry, who was sheltered here by the
devoted Lancastrian, Sir Ralph Pudsay, after the final defeat
of his party at Hexham. Here, and at Whalley Abbey,
Bracewell, and Waddington Hall, the crownless king was
concealed for a year : he was betrayed and apprehended at
the last named house, whence he was taken to the Tower.
Until lately, some interesting relics of Henry's visit remained
at Bolton,- -a pair of boots, a pair of gloves, and a spoon, all
of which were used by him during his stay here. When the
property changed hands, these things were removed. A
spring" in the garden is called King Henry's Well; it is said
to have been used by the fugitive as a bath.

Near the hall is a fine scar or cliff, overlooking' the Ribble,
which commands a romantically beautiful view. This is
known as Rainsber Scar, or Pudsay's Leap. The latter name
it acquired, according to tradition, from a remarkable incident
in the history of the family of the Pudsays. Those who wish
to believe the legend had better not visit the spot! This,
however, is the story :

It is said that, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a Pudsay of
Bolton, having found silver in a field at Rimington. infringed
the royal prerogative and coined shillings.

' Oh, then he made, and thought no ill,
The Pudsay shillings his debts to pay,
Still at the Mint, by Bolton Mill,
The dross of his works is seen to-day."

For this offence, "brave Pudsay, he was doomed to dee."
Pressed by the soldiers, he flung himself on his horse's back,
and galloped straight to Rainsber Scaur.

" Now for a leap, quoth brave Pudsay !
If of death I must meet the shock,

Since it may no other be ;
Better a leap from my own good rock,

Than from a ladder at York, quoth he !
Into his steed he drove the spur,
Fearfully he did snort and neigh ;
Yet, though at first he was hard to stir,
Over the Scaur leaped Wanton Grey ! "

The culprit rode hard, until he came into the presence of
the Queen, his god-mother, who was upon a ship in the
Thames. The interview and its result must be related in the
racy vernacular:

" An a fell upoo his knees, an a sed, ' Pardon, Pardon ! '

An shu sed, ' Wat ivvt-r has ta bin abeout, Poodsaa ? '

An a sed, ' Pardon ! Pardon ! '

An thir wir a deal spak for him, and sed a wir a reel
gentlemen, an it didn't look loike at a sud do eouet wrang.

An shu sed, ' Wt-el, then, eouet, Coozn Poodsaa, but
moordir.'

\n a sed it wir nobbut coinin.

An shu sed, ' Waugh ! ' Bui she teld him at a moodn't
mak ony moar a thir Poodsaa Miillings.

An a didn't."

In the woods, half a mile above the Scar, is a cave of
considerable proportions.

The tourist who wishes t<> explore the uttermost south-
western corner of Craven may continue his journey, by
Waddington Hall and Bashall, to Mitton, where the Hodder
joins the Ribble ; and may visit Browsholme Hall, an old
Henry VII. house, in the valley of the Hodder. In Mitton
church is a beautiful group of sepulchral statues and monu-
ments of the Sherbume family.

The forest of Rowland or Bolland occupies the hilly region
on the west of the river Hodder. Th village of Slaidburr. is
on its eastern edge, in the valley.

From Gisburne or Bolton the tourist may proceed to Settle,
either by .the valley of the Ribble, or by a somewhat more
direct road to the east. In the former case he will pass
Paythorn, where is a bridge o\ er the river, Nappa, where are
some islands in the centre of the stream, and Halton, near
which is Halton Place, a house occupying- a commanding
position ; and so by Long Preston to Settle. The other route
is by Forest Becks, Wigglesworth, and Rathmell.

CHAPTER X.

THE SETTLK AND CARLISLE RAILWAY.

all modes of travelling on wheels, there is one pre-
eminent in luxurious comfort. Need we say that we
refer to a journey in a Pullman Car on a Midland
express ? Availing ourselves of this latest product of
refined civilization, we took our places in the palace car which
is attached to the Scotch express, on a bright and breezy day
at the end of July. We were bound for the Craven country,
and for the wild moorland, mountainous region which has just
been opened up to travellers and tourists by the new line from
Settle to Carlisle. Seated on crimson velvet-piled arm chairs,
which, being fixed upon a pivot, admit of a semi-revolution,
and surrounded by maps, guides, and time-tables, we prepared
to enjoy the varied scenery through which we were to be
driven by a powerful engine at a high speed, and yet with
the utmost possible ease and comfort. As a conductor had
said at the outset of the journey to a gentleman at St. Pancras,
who was debating with himself whether he should travel to
Scotland in the Pullman, "You save your seven shillings in
wear and tear; at the end of the journey, instead of feeling
cramped, and worn and weary, if not half shaken to pieces,
you will feel as if you had been resting in your own drawing
room." The gentleman took the advice, and seemed pleased
with the bargain. Certainly it is no small advantage to have
what may be called a series of French windows on both sides
of the carriage, not only admitting abundance of light, but
enabling you to see the country on either hand as well as the
rapid pace permits.

Punctually at the hour we were at Normanton, where half-
an-hour is allowed to dine. We have always eschewed
railway refreshment rooms, and needed some persuasion to

induce us to give the dinner a trial. However, we can testify
that the arrangements are wonderfully different from those of
any other such place we have entered, that is, in this country.
The dining- room was only temporary, but was very comfort-
able. No sooner are you seated than the soup is before you,
and the fish is ready before you are, and is followed by entree
and joint, and these by sweets and cheese. Neat handed
Phyllis sees that no time is lost in changing- plates. Your
bottle of Burgundy or hock stands before you, with the price
ticket hung round its neck, and if you give the word, the cork
is drawn instanter. You have your clear half-hour for the
meal, and we venture to say pay your three shillings and
sixpence with a better grace than you ever displayed at the
refreshment counter at Mugby Junction. Returning to the
car, and retiring to a cosy smoking-room to enjoy a post-
prandial cigar, we resumed our interest in the route.

Leaving Leeds on our right for the Leeds passengers had
changed carriages at Normanton, that they might not be
delayed by our dinner, and that we might not be delayed by
entering Leeds station \ve dashed past the romantic ruins of
Kirkstall, and soon found ourselves in the seclusion of verdant
Airedale. Farewell, for some weeks let us hope, to the
chimneys and the smoke of thronged and busy cities ! Away
to the clearer atmosphere, the brighter skies, the keener air
of mountains. Away past the smiling cornfields, and the
bright green meadows where the last hay-cocks wait to be
carried to the stacks ; away, past the meek, meditative kine,
the startled colt, the flustered sheep. Away, between the
broad grassy slopes and hill sides, streaked by the grey stone
walls of Yorkshire, where the ash trees are ruffled by the west
wind ; past the rivulets hurrying down the rocky bed, and
gleaming in the summer sun ; past the dingle clad with
bracken, where the proud foxglove rears its stately head.
Away, towards the mossy moors, where the rivers have their
rise, to the mountain peaks that lord it over the undulating
landscapes of the north !

At Skipton we had to leave our express and join a stopping
train, for our friend, the Scotchman was not to pause between
Skipton and Carlisle.

But let us before recounting our experiences, and recording
our observations, give the reader a general idea of the
country to be traversed, and some notion of the magnitude
and difficulty of the undertaking which the Midland Company

has so successfully accomplished. The Pennine Chain is the
great mountain range which divides the North of England
longitudinally into two unequal parts. It extends, from the
Scottish border southwards into Derbyshire. In north-west
Yorkshire and in Westmoreland this Pennine Chain rears its
loftiest summits. Ingleborough rises to a height of 2373 feet,
Pennegent to 2231 feet feet, and Whernside to 2414 feet.
And these are only the best known of a multitude of stupendous
fells and pikes, which render this district, -with the adjoining
lake country, the most mountainous in England. As the local
rhymes run :

" Pendle, Pennegent, and Ingleborough,

You'll find no higher hills if you march all England thorough."

or according to another version :

"Ingleborough, Pendle Hill, and Pennegent,
Are the highest hills between Scotland and Trent."

These lines embody a popular error; for Micklefell is
nearly 2600 feet high.

Now the reader will remember that, until lately, there have
been two routes to Scotland, the east and west coast routes, by
Newcastle and Berwick, and by Lancaster and Carlisle
respectively. It was natural enough that the Midland Com-
pany, having secured a road to Lancaster and Morcambe by
the Airedale valley and Ribblesdale, and having taktn
possession of north-western Yorkshire, should turn a longing
eye northwards, and set its heart upon establishing communi-
cations with North Britain, and gaining a share ot the through
Scotch traffic, said to be worth two millions a year. Whoever
wishes to read the several chapters of this book of modern
railway history, should refer to the laborious, interesting, and
handsomely got up volume of Mr. Williams, "The Midland
Railway, its rise and progress.'' It was at length resolved
that a direct line north, commencing at Settle should be
constructed, at a cost exceeding two millions sterling. The
result is the Midland route, as distinguished from those
mentioned above, and intermediate in its course, although
nearer the west coast than the east.

It was one thing to determine upon the work, and another
thing to do it. The obstacles were tremendous, but engineer-
ing, like love, "will find out a way." But how was the route
fixed ? The country being, for upwards of 20 miles, one mass
of mountain and moor, how was it to be traversed by an iron

road ? The will be better understood by the help of an
ordnance map. But without this aid we can enable the reader
to understand how the thing 1 was done. The engineers had
recourse to nature, and found that she had been doing their
work for them for thousands of years beforehand, as if in
preparation for what was to come, that the task might, when
in due time undertaken, be an easier one for the hands of
man. Natural forces had been cutting hollow channels
amongst the hills, and deepening and widening rifts into
valleys, and intersecting the stupendous masses with the
winding waterways. Although the difficulties remaining were
enormous on the whole probably such as railway engineers
have nowhere else, throughout the length and breadth of the
country, been called to encounter still these valleys were, so
to speak, the fulcrum which enabled the lever of mechanical
science to be brou^it to bear. Southwards, Ribblesdale
offered an inlet in.u che very heart of the district. The
Kibble, rising on the south-western slopes of Cam Fell, and
flowing between Whrrnsidj and Ingleborough on the west,
and Pennegent on the east ; and lower down, between Stack-
house and Moughton on th-c- west, and Langcliffe and Stainfoith
on the east, seemed to invite a road of iron to keep it company
and track its course. Northwards, the valley of the Eden, as
lovely as that of the Ribble is wildly romantic, furnished an
accessible pathway towards Carlisle. Indeed, the chief
difficulties of the road might be considered as surmounted
when once the course of the Eden was reached. Between
these two valleys lay the most formidable difficulties and
obstacles. Availing themselves, however, of two great, but
minor valleys, Dentdale and Garsdale, and tunnelling beneath
some elevated moors, the engineers were able to vanquish
every hindrance, and to establish a connection between
Ribblesdale and the Eden valley, and thus between Settle
and Carlisle.

The reader will now see what it was that brought us to
Settle ; we were attracted by some of the wildest country in
all England, pierced by a railway which is admitted to be a
triumph of engineering skill and perseverance.

At Settle we put up for the night at the Golden Lion, and
next mcrning, after an early breakfast, prepared to make a
general survey of the new line. There are three stations
bearing the name of Settle ; that on the old line to Clapham
and Lancaster, the junction station where the lines diverge,

and the new station on the new line. It was to this last
named that we proceeded. We were favoured with the
company of gentlemen who were familiar with every mile of
the road, and who had watched its progress during" the whole
six years occupied in its construction.

All the stations on the line are remarkably neat and
commodious ; the station master's houses are like village
manses, and the cottages for the porters are models of their
kind. We could not but admire the pretty station at Settle.
Phis and three neighbouring stations are built of Bradford
stone, which, with dressings of the same, were brought here
ready dressed, and the station buildings were accordingly
easily constructed. The station masters' houses on this line,
with their gables and high roofs, are models of domestic
architecture ; of their occupants we may say (though in some
cases this holds good rather of the dwellings than of the
localities), "the lines have fallen to them in pleasant places.''
The bright-hued flowers bloom in the neat gardens and in
jars of porcelain in the windows. Within, judging by the
glimpses we enjoyed, these dwellings are equally attractive.
Signs of taste and of education abound ; one cannot but feel
that railways are giving employment to a class of men whose
intelligence, abilities, and general character, are of the highest
value to the public.

Our train appeared, and we took our seats, and were soon
puffing away up Ribblesdale. Leaving the open pastures of
Settle we found ourselves ascending- a narrow valley, which
we tracked, sometimes by a cutting through perpendicular
strata of rock, sometimes by a handsome bridge over the
rocky bed of the Ribble, sometimes by an embankment
affording a view of green pastures, with their grazing sheep,
and here and there a whitewashed cottage ; but never, by any
chance, traversing a oit of level gtound. Indeed, it was
drolly said, when the line was m process of construction, that
between Settle and Carlisle not enough level ground could be
discovered to build a house upon ! It is, in truth, a wild, bare,
and rugged country ; and before the line was made, must have
been one of the dreariest districts in all England. One cannot
but feel that we live in innovating days, when drawn in a
luxurious carriage at a speed of forty miles through desolations
guarded by mountain barriers and peaty moors, and tenanted
by the sheep of the wilderness. There is a striking contrast
visible from the line in two bridges spanning the river close

8 4

by. An ancient narrow bridge, mossy with age, has been
superseded by one constructed to carry the road traffic of this
solitude over both railway and river; and they stand side by
side, works of the olden and modern times. Pennegent, with
its whale-like outlines, raises its colossal mass on our right
as we approach Horton, whose square towered church stands
among a knot of grey and whitewashed houses. Passing
through a cutting made in the boulder-clay, we come to
Selside.

A few facts will be mentioned as we proceed in illustration
of the engineering difficulties which were encountered and
overcome in the construction of this part of the Settle and
Carlisle railroad. They were communicated to us by one of
the engineers employed throughout the whole period of six
years and a half occupied in the works.

The cold and elevated situation of the district may be
understood when it is known that the engineers proceeded
northwards from Settle thirty-two miles before they came to a
ploughed field, which was near Bull Ghyl, near Kirkby
Stephen. Even in the southern part of the Eden valley there
is a great preponderance of grass land, and much less ploughed
land than formerly. The tenant of Wharton Hall mentioned
to us that of the 600 acres and upwards he farmed, a very
small portion was under the plough, only enough for home
use. A hundred and thirty acres were meadow, and the rest
pasture.

The ground itself in which the navvies had to work often
presented serious difficulties. The boulder-clay is of very
unequal consistency, and Mr. Williams mentioned that, in
some instances, the labourer would strike his pick-axe with
force into what appeared to be a soft clay, and would
encounter a hard rock just below the surface ; and that an
experience like this would so annoy and disgust the not too
sensitive navvy, that he would lay down his tools at once and
leave the work. An engineer on the line remarked to us that
the softer material often occasioned mor<- trouble than the
hard. Clay, when acted upon by rain, became soft mud, and
in tunnelling, especially, was continually coming down and
filling up the passage already made.

Near to Batty Green we enter a somewhat remarkable
cutting. When travelling through it before it was finished,
we noticed that the banks had slipped down nearly on to the
permanent way, or the ballast. The remark was then made

to the engineer, "You will find it necessary to have these
banks cleared out." He told us that not only had the soil
slipped, but the whole walls of the cutting had slipped down
and crushed under the permanent way, so as to lift up the
whole of the road. "We shall have," he said, "to take out
the whole road sleepers, rails, and all, to deepen the
cutting, and to relay the road." This, of course, was
thoroughly and efficiently done, before the line was opened.

Leaving grand old Ingleborough on our left, and passing
Ribblehead on our right, where the Ribble takes its rise on
the slopes of Cam Fell, we come to Batty Green. Here has
existed, for several years past, a town of the most extraordinary
description. Some of the most difficult work upon the Settle
and Carlisle line lies in this neighbourhood. And here,
accordingly, out in this wild moorland wilderness, was fixed
the habitation of the navvies whose strong hands were to do
the great work. Some two thousand of these brawny armed
sons of toil were located at Batty Green ; and we passed the
temporary town of wooden felt-covered huts which was erected
for their accommodation. The work which these men had to
do was of no ordinary kind. "Here," says Mr. Williams,
" five great railway works follow one another in succession- -
the viaduct, the embankment, the cutting, the tunnel, and then
another viaduct." Crossing a vast peaty bog by the Batty
Moss Viaduct the longest on the line and 100 feet in height
laid securely upon the most soft and apparently impossible
foundation, and leaving the great moss of Whernside on our
left, we approach Blea Moor tunnel. Our readers may have
noticed, that when the presentation of his portrait to Mr.
Allport, the manager of the Midland Railway, was made a
short time ago at Derby, allusion was made to the circumstance
that, at Mr. Allport's suggestion, the "distance" of the picture
consisted of a view of Blea Moor. In fact, this was looked
upon as the "crux" of the undertaking; and the vanquishing
of this obstacle may justly be regarded as one of the triumphs
of railway enterprise and engineering skill. The moor is
1250 feet above the level of the sea, and the tunnel is carried
through at a distance of some 500 feet below the summit.

Near Blea Moor tunnel is the "summit level" of the
line, being 1150 feet above the sea; yet this is reached by
gradients never exceding i in 100.

We emerged into Dentdale, near the source of the little
river Dee, which, after tracking the beautiful dale of which

Dent is the capital, falls into the Rother at Sedbergh.
Passing- over the romantic dingle by the Dent Head viaduct,
we enjoyed a charming prospect towards the west, down the
lovely vale of tne Dee. Far below us the beck pursued its
rapid course, hurrying in places over a black marble bed.
As we gazed upon the smiling verdure of this fascinating vale
abounding in homesteads nestling among the meadows, and
flanked by noble hills, we could not but form purposes of
exploration.

At Arten Ghyll viaduct the ground was discovered to be so
insecure that it was necessary to go down 50 feet to get
foundations. A shaft was made by digging down from six to
ten feet; then the shaft was timbered round with strong
timbers. Progress having thus been made and satisfactorily
ensured, the shaft was carried a few feet farther, until the
required depth was obtained. All the time that this operation
was proceeding, and until a firm foundation was reached it
was necessary to continue pumping out the water as it rose in
the shaft.

At Rise Hill tunnel we are in another of the critical
engineering points of this interesting line. Here, as we were
told by the resident engineer, on account of the horizontal
strata of blue limestone which constituted the roof, it was
found necessary to place wrought iron ribs across the tunnel.
at distances of six feet apart. These ribs were made to
spring from the side walls of the tunnel, and so to form an
arch, which supports it. They are fastened together with
tie rods. In this manner an iron framework has been fixed in
this tunnel for the space of 2dO yards.

On emerging from this tunnel, we found ourselves in
Garsdale, which is upon our route, the transition valley
between Dentdale and the valley of the Eden. The prodigious
works we had passed could scarcely be unnoticed by the most
unobservant traveller; yet it requires some acquaintance with
the processes of railway construction to appreciate them as
they deserve. Above the very tunnel we had just left behind
there had been built, we were informed, another village of
huts, at an elevation of 1300 feet above the sea level, in which
for several years 350 inhabitants had made their mountain
homes. From here there was a tramway down a steep
incline to the road in Garsdale, 600 yards in length, up which
all the railway material for this portion of the line had to be
drawn by a rope worked by steam power."

We soon reached a spot which is one of the landmarks of
the route. This is the Moorcock Inn a name suggestive of
the nature of the locality. We noticed that, in some places,
the telegraph wires were twisted into a single cable, to avoid
injury to the grouse, which it was feared, might in their flight
strike themselves against the wires. And we were told that,
in other places, the owners of the moors, for the same reason,
required that the telegraph wires should be buried below the
surface of the soil. Grouse and moor-fowl seem to be the
most important inhabitants of the district. At the Moorcock
is the meeting of several roads that to Hawes in Wensley-
dale ; that to Sedbergh, by Garsdale ; and that to Kirkby
Stephen. Passing over the Dandry Mire Viaduct, near to
which is the junction station for Hawes, which is reached by
a branch line, we were soon at Ais Gill Moor, the summit of
thr railway, at 1 167 feet above the sea-level. Yet, though a
height so unusual is reached, the gradients on the Settle and
Carlisle line never exceed one in one hundred. And now we
are in Westmoreland, in the valley of the Eden, with Wild
Boar Fell upon our left and Mallerstang Edge (pronounced
Mawstan) upon our right. Passing Deep Gill, "where the
union of a bridge and culvert has been ingeniously designed
to meet the requirements of the site, which is composed of a
stream pouring a cascade off a high shelf of rock," we soon
look down upon the winding course of the romantic Eden.
This celebrated stream well justifies the quaint conceit of the
old poet, who sang of it thus :

' ' Fetched from Paradise, the honour came
Rightfully borne ; for Nature gives thee flowers
That have no rivals amongst British bowers ;

And thy bold rocks are worthy of their fame."

Before reaching Kirkby Stephen Station the railway train
passes through Birkett Tunnel. Immediately to the south of
this are the evidences of what is known to geologists as the
Pennine Fault. Crossing the line at this point, the Fault may
be traced in a south-westerly direction towards and across
Dent Valley. We were informed by one of the engineers
that in making Birkett Tunnel they found the work compara-
tively easy, because the displaced strata are. in that place, in
a vertical position. Whereas horizontal strata present a flat
roof across the top of the tunnel which occasions great
engineering difficulties when the strata are vertical no great

difficulty is experienced in working the tunnel to the exact
section required the form of the section being- that of the
pointed arch. Very curious and interesting- is the insight
which the railway cutting in this place affords into the almost
perpendicular arrangement of intermingled geological strata.
The traveller should not fail to observe it as he passes.

A heavy "slip" took place in the construction of Birkett
Tunnel. The ground came down for the space of 60 feet in
length. This part of the tunnel had to be lined throughout,
and filled with wooden sleepers put across, side by side.

A hundred yards or so before entering the Fault, the
traveller by the railway train should look eastward over the
valley of the Eden. At this point three buildings are seen in
a line ; the middle one, a square tower of dark stone, standing
boldly up on a green knoll, is Pendragon Castle. As the
traveller approaches the Kirkby Stephen station, he may
observe a tuft of trees in the valley ; behind these nestle the
ruins of Wharton Hall. On the hills above the heights of
Mallerstang may be descried a lofty stone. This is one of
nine erect pillars, known as the " Nine Stands."

By the time we reached the station of Kirkby Stephen, the
day had brightened, and sunshine and breeze contributed to
the enjoyment of our excursion. There is no doubt that the
district is a very rainy one. The rain gauge showed that
during 1872 ninety-two inches of rain fell at Dent Head. The
extreme rainfall of the region interfered very materially with
the progress of the contractors' works upon the line, both by
its influence upon the soil, ctnd by its limiting the number of
working days to an unusual extent. The same phenomenon
accounts, however, for the singular greenness of these moor-
lands, and especially of the valleys which they enclose. Speaking
of weather, we may remark that there were many days during
the construction of the Settle and Carlisle railway, when the
winds were so violent, that in certain exposed positions upon
the line, it was utterly impossible for the workmen to proceed
with their task. On the embankments and bridges they
would have been literally blown away. We were thankful for
a very different day for our explorations by the banks of the
Eden.

Smardale Viaduct is a great work which occupied four and
a half years in the construction. It is over Scandal Beck and
the South Durham Railway, and is 130 feet in height from
stream to rail. It contains more than 60,000 tons of stone.

Other viaducts, tunnels, cutting's, and embankments followed,
too numerous to mention ; a list of them will be found at the
end of this chaper.

After leaving Kirkby Stephen behind us, we found the
scenery much less wild. While in many parts of England the
grass had been well-nigh scorched up, here we observed it
bright with verdure. There were a few green crops ; the
hedgerows were a pleasing variety after so many stone walls
as we had remarked in the more elevated country. Passing
Crosby Garrett and Ormside, our eyes were refreshed by the
ripening cornfields, whilst here and there the red sandstone
rocks offered a picturesque diversity in the landscape. After
a journey of 42 miles from Settle, we reached Appleby, the
quiet little capital of Westmoreland. One of the railway
officials characterized the pretty, but by no means go-a-head
little town, in a few words, thus : " Appleby, sir, has been
asleep for a few hundred years, but, now the railway has
come here, it is beginning to rub its eyes, and may perhaps
soon wake up." According to the historian of Westmoreland
everything belonging to Appleby the town, the corporation,
the assizes, the market has existed from time immemorial.
And we are disposed to receive this historian's opinion with
profound respect because of his wholesome scepticism regard-
ing Julius Caesar's Tower, as it is called, a portion of Appleby
Castle. Says Mr. Sayers of this famous keep which, by the
bye, is clearly seen from the railway " Popular tradition says
that it was raised by Julius Caesar ; however, we think its
erection might with equal propriety be attributed to Napoleon
Buonaparte! "

Passing Battle Barrow bank, where was another navvy-town
of huts, we reached Long Marton, the station of which has,
instead of a wall, a fence of iron rails, with wire-work filling
it in. Asking the reason of this, we were told that this
arrangement was for the purpose of affording a picturesque
view of and from the station, and that the net-work was to
prevent children straying or falling through ! We admit that
the reader can scarcely be expected to believe this explanation :
fancy a railway with aesthetic susceptibilities !

And now, on our left, upon the western horizon we discerned
the romantic forms of the Lake Mountains about Keswick.
Passing Newbiggin and the pretty Crowdundle Beck we
approached the confluence of the Eamont with the Eden ; the
former river comes down from Ullswater. On the west might

be observed, among 1 noble woods, the roofs of Eden Hall, the
home of the Musgroves. An old manuscript says of this
famous place: "Walks as fine as Chelsea fields, the fair
Eden gliding- like the Thames along! " Our readers will be
familiar with the tradition concerning the " Luck of Edenhall."
" A servant of the family going to fetch water from the well,
saw the fairies dancing round this vessel. He snatched it
from them, and they entreated him to restore it ; but on his
refusal, they uttered the ominous words

' Whene'er this cup shall break or fall,
Farewell the luck of Edenhall. "

The "luck" is a curious old vessel of green-coloured glass,
ornamented with foliage, and enamelled in different colours.

The scenery about Longwathby is extemely romantic. Far
away on the east rises the grand mountain mass known as
Cross Fell. Westward you look over the winding Eden,
where groups of quiet cattle stand cooling their feet in the
sparkling shallows, towards the woods which form a pic-
turesque horizon to the landscape. Near Little Salkeld, on
the summit of a hill, will be found the Druidical remains,
known as Long Meg and her Daughters, "that family
forlorn," as Wordsworth has finely termed them.

And now we come to Lazonby the goal of our present
railway journey. Prettily is the station situated ; among fir
trees, fruit orchards, and sunny farmsteads, with the church
and churchyard on a pleasant knoll, looking over the charm-
ing vale below.

Near Lazonby is the seat of Colonel Maclane, who is said
to have predicted the construction of a railway between Settle
and Carlisle 30 years before that work was undertaken !

At Eden Brow the " tipping " went on for two years. As
the work proceeded, the material tipped merely slipped down,
carrying trees with it in its course, and depositing them in the
adjoining country.

There is very romantic scenery bordering the line all the
way between Lazonby and Armathwaite Stations ; and, though
not so fine, yet pretty scenery between Armathwaite and Cote
Hill. The river Eden here flows through a deep dingle, clad
on both sides in places, with umbrageous trees from the bank
of the river to the summits of the hills. This country must be
visited, either from Carlisle on the north, or from the plain
village inn of Kirkoswald on the south. It may be questioned

whether more beautiful scenery is to be found in all England
than in this valley of the Eden.

Carlisle is a busy station, both for passenger and for goods
traffic. Seven railway companies run their lines into this one
station.

NOTE TO CHAPTER X.

The following list of the Viaducts and Tunnels which have been constructed
on the new railway, will give the reader some notion of the magnitude and
difficulty of the engineering work which has been accomplished. The dimen-
sions and other particulars are annexed according to the official statements.

LIST OF VIADUCTS.

No.

Name of Viaduct.

No. of
Arches.

Length in ft.

Height in
feet at
deepest part

Span of
Arches in ft.

Settle, Kirkgate

130

Settle, Giggleswick Road

269

5 of 30 and

I of 40

Batty Moss

1328

100

Dent Head

596

IOO

Arten Gill

645

100

Dandry Mire

700

Quarry

270

Ais Gill

2?O

Smardale

700

130

Crosby Garrett

270

High Grisbrow

370

River Eden

590

Troutbeck

319

Crowdundle Beck

270

Briggle Beck

420

River Eden

421

Armathwaite

530

Dry Beck

370

High Stand Gill

270

LIST OF TUNNELS.

No.

Name of Tunnel.

Length in
Yards.

Depth in
feet.

Strata.

Taitlands

1 2O

Blue Limestone

Blea Moor

2640

500

Gritstone, Limestone & Shale

Rise Hill

1180

180

Blue Limestone

Moor Cock

IOO

Boulder Clay

Quarry

Boulder Clay

Birkett

428

IOO

Limestone

Crosby Garrett

180

Gritstone, Limestone & Flint

Helm

500

Red Marl

Culgaith

650

Red Marl

Lazonby

IOO

Red Sandstone

Baron Woods

200

Red Sandstone

Baron Woods

250

Red Sandstone

Armathwaite

320

Red Sandstone

CHAPTER XI.

UPPER RlBBLESDALE, DENT HEAD, AND HAWES.

IN this chapter we will briefly describe four excursions from
so many successive stations upon the Settle and Carlisle
Railway.

I. From Norton Station. At Horton-in-Ribblesdale are
two inns, either of which will afford comfortable quarters for
the pedestrian. The New Inn is by the bridge, and the Lion
Inn is by the church. The church has arches and columns of
the Norman period, and a font equally ancient ; the tower
dates from Henry VII. or VIII. The grammar-school is well
endowed; the present building replaces one which stood in
the churchyard.

'From Horton the summit of Pennegent (or Penyghent) may
most easily be climbed. The ascent of the mountain, which is
a mass of limestone capped with millstone grit, and 2273 feet
high, is very easy. The direct path is up the Greenrake, a
broad grassy track between two projecting rocks. "The
early morning,'' says Mr. Howson, "the noon, and the evening
have each their peculiar advantages for the ascent of such
mountains as Pennegent and Ingleborough. Soon after sun-
rise, when the clouds are dispersing and beginning to assume
a higher altitude, their slow and solemn motion, the haze in
the valleys, the illumined summit of the hills, like pleasant
islands in these lakes of mists, the grand pictorial effects of
light and shade, and the purity and freshness of the air, may
well tempt the tourist to select such an hour. *In the evening,
too, the pageantry of a sunset may have its peculiar charms ;
but, as the chief object in ascending a mountain is to obtain
an extensive view of the surrounding country, the noon, unless
there has been a succession of dry and hot days, will be found
to be the most eligible time for such a purpose." .-

'94

Following the course of the stream which joins the Ribble
at Horton, the visitor will come to Doukgill Scar, an amphi-
theatre of rock, with beetling- brow, threatening- to fall upon
the spectator below. The rock is over-grown with moss and
ferns, and is crowned with a plantation of larch.

Not far from the cart-track to the summit of Penneg-ent are
some of those singular caverns, locally known as "pots,"
which are so characteristic of the mountain limestone. The
most remarkable of these are Thirl Pot and Thund Pot,
which are both well worth a visit. Each is a terrific chasm,
and the receptacle of a mountain torrent. They are somewhat
dangerous to approach. Thund Pot has been plumbed to a
depth of 200 feet.

Distances from Horton : To Clapham, 6 miles ; Ingleton,
by Clapham, 10 miles; Ingleton, by Selside, 8 miles; Litton,
7 miles ; Settle, 6 miles.

2. From Ribblehead. From hence is to be made one of the
most marvellous of all the Ribblesdale excursions. No visitor
should lose the opportunity of seeing Helln Pot, which is to be
found from the hamlet of Selside, by following first a green
lane, then a brook, and then looking for a solitary bush-like
tree as a landmark. This Helln Pot is the most awful thing in
all England. It is a terrific chasm 180 feet in length, and 60
in width, but 200 deep and more ! It is walled round by a high
wall, for the protection of cattle, and indeed of all living things
unwinged; but it may be crossed by a wooden bridge, placed
there by recent explorers. Trees partially overshadow the
yawning abyss ; as you look down, not without a shudder, you
remark ledges of rock clothed with moss and grass, and below,
at one side, a waterfall, which plunges into the depth. Several
attempts have been made to explore this chasm ; the last, the
only thoroughly successful one, in 1870, by an adventurous
party of thirteen, including three ladies ! Mr. Birkbeck was
the conductor, and Mr. Boyd Dawkins, who tells the story in
his "Cave Hunting," was one of the explorers. Provided
with suitable apparatus, and aided by a party of navvies, the
enthusiasts were rewarded for their enterprise by very in-
teresting observations and discoveries. Some of them reached
a depth of 300 feet from the surface having descended in the
darkness, through the courses of several waterfalls. They
were five hours about the business.

There are two other caves above, by which the sides of
Helln Pot may be reached. Looking- into them we were

struck by the flatness of the roofs, the honeycombed limestone
walls, the perpetual murmur of invisible water. To explore
them, a visitor must be suitably provided with lights and
ladders, and be prepared for a wetting".

From Ribbblehead Station, proceeding westwards, the
tourist may visit Chapel-le-dale, or climb Ingleborough. But
this excursion has been described in Chapter VIII. Turning
eastwards, however, you will, in a mile and a half, reach the
inn at Gearstones, a roomy and comfortable hostelry in a wild,
secluded spot upon the high road from Hawes to Ingleton.

After luncheon in the inn at Gearstones, you may set off to
see Thorns Gill, a deep cleft in the limestone, with steep cliffs
overhung with ash and rowan, through which flows the
stream, Gale Beck, which is the chief confluent of the Ribble
though not that coming from Ribblehead, as it is called,
close by Gearstones. The channel is remarkably tortuous,
and is diversified, here with a deep, dark pool, and there with
the small pot holes peculiar to the district. These pot-holes
are bored by stones, which are whirled round and round by
by the eddying of the streams. The beck is crossed by a
plank-bridge, and lower down by an arch of stone.

Adjoining Thorns Gill is a cave, called Catknot Hole, which
has been robbed of the stalactites that were formerly its
glory.

From Gearstones or Horton the tourist should not fail to
visit Lynn Gill, a wild and romantic mountain ravine, through
which flows the Cam Beck, another confluent of the Ribble.
On the road between Lynn Gill and Horton, near a farmhouse
called Old Ing, is Brow Gill, a cavern with an imposing
entrance, and near 1 New Houses, one mile from Horton,
are two chasms worth looking at, Jackdaw Hole and
Sel Gill.

From Gearstones also may be made the ascent of Blea
Moor, whence is a wide and glorious prospect; or the old,
disused high road may be followed over Cam Fell to Hawes ;
or the road to Newby Head, where is a good country inn,
and whence you can descend into Wensleydale.

Distances from Gearstones : To Chapel-le-dale, 3 miles ; to
Dent, 9 miles; to Hawes, 9 miles; to Sedbergh, 16 miles; to
Linn Gill Bridge, 2 miles ; to Horton, 6 miles.

3. From Dent Head Station, the tourist should explore the
lovely valley of the Dent. The little river Dee runs through
this valley, and rushes over a bed paved as it were with black

marble. The little town of Dent (Inns : George and Drag-on ;
.the Sun) is eight miles down the valley. Here was born Prof.
Sedgwick, the distinguished geologist. This is the scene of
Southey's story in "The Doctor," "the terrible knitters of Dent."
The excursion may be continued to Sedbergh (Inn : King's
Arms) near which are How Gill Fells and the Calf, Black Foss,
a tremendous chasm and waterfall, and Cautley spout, a
succession of cascades, measuring altogether 860 feet. At
Sedbergh is a grammar-school (first grade classical) with a
very wealthy foundation.

5. From Hawes Junction Station. The tourist may follow
the Garsdale valley westwards to Sedbergh, or he may turn
eastward down the valley of the Ure, the uppermost portion
of the celebrated Wensleydale ; or, he may take the branch
line to Hawes (Inn : The White Hart), the highest town in
this dale. This town is the centre for many delightful
excursions. "Seven Dales, Mossdale, Yoredale proper, Cotter-
dale, and Fossdale (north), and Widdale, Galedale, and
Seamerdale (south), open out within three miles of Hawes,
radiating from it north, south, and west." {Murray}. Hardraw
Force is a very beautiful cascade in the neighbourhood of
Hawes.

Brow Gill.

CHAPTER XII.

THE VALLEY OF THE EDEN.

~E will ask the reader to accompany us in three
excursions we made in the lovely valley of the Eden,

i i- including much of the most beautiful scenery and
most interesting objects to be visited in the district.
The three stations upon the line from which we started were
Kirkby Stephen, Appleby, and Lazonby.

Within an easy walk from Kirkby Stephen station are three
interesting remains of antiquity. Accompanied by one of the
railway engineers, to whom a residence of several years and
his professional duties had rendered the whole country familiar,
we set out upon a little antiquarian excursion. Crossing the
fields, by the courteous permission of the tenant farmer, Mr.
Cleasby. we proceeded to inspect the remains of Wharton
Hall. When we say "remains," it must be understood that,
although the former glory of the place has departed, there is
still, in good repair, enough to constitute a very commodious
farm-house.

The Wharton family held this place from the reign of
Edward I. down to the year 1728. when the estate was sold to
Robert Lowther, Esq., ancestor of the Earls of Lonsdale. The
last Duke of Wharton is remembered in history and celebrated
in poetry for his brilliant abilities, his chequered career, his
dissolute character, and his expatriation and early death. This
nobleman was the subject of Pope's lines, commencing

' ' Wharton, the scorn and wonder of our days,
Whose ruling passion was the lust of praise. "

Entering the paddock or enclosure, within which stands
Wharton Hall, our attention was directed to the curious
water-worn stone posts of the gate. These were singularly

indented specimens of the "breccia" or "brockram" stone,
which is found abundantly in the neighbourhood of Kirkby
Stephen, and is commonly used for buildings of various kinds,
for walls, &c. There are two kinds of conglomerate; the
pudding stone, the imbedded pebbles of which are round, and
the brockram, which abounds in pebbles of an angular form.
The latter, so common here, is a calcareous, magnesian
formation.

Through a grove of sycamores, elms, and ash trees, we
approached the hall a stone building, with some traces of
former grandeur in its mullioned windows, its enormous
chimney-places, and the coat of arms engraven over the
gateway, bearing the date, 1559. Passing through this gate-
way under the tower, we entered the spacious quadrangle.
The buildings fronting us and on our left we saw at once to
be inhabited, and found them to be occupied by the household
of the farmer, and by his farm servants. An immense
fire-place, 12 feet across, fronted us, and looked picturesque
enough, with its verdant mantling of ivy. This was the hearth
where blazed of old, upon the dog irons, the logs of the
dining or banqueting hall fire. On the right of this apartment
is the ancient kitchen, which has been roofed at a period
comparatively recent ; it has two large fire-places, one of
them half filled in with masonry. This room has been used
as a smithy. Beneath it is a vaulted cellar, 30 feet by 15,
which is considered to have been the larder, doubtless well
replenished in the olden time with many a fat buck from the
forest of Mallerstang, and many a salmon from the silvery
waters of the Eden.

The chapel of the hall is on the left of the quadrangle, and
is now used as a store-room. It is the outer side of this
portion of the edifice that the visitor sees in approaching by
way of the plantation. The hall of the present dwelling is
reached by a flight of steps from the outside ; on the right of
the hall is the lord's solar, or private sitting room. There is
an old oak staircase, and in some of the rooms are massive
oak beams, now covered with whitewash. Some 45 years
ago, several of the apartments were well fitted up as a
shooting box, for the use of the late Earl of Lonsdale.

We had a chat with the farmer, who has held this farm and
resided in the hall for many years. He told us that almost
the whole of the land was in grass, as pasture or meadow,
and that out of 633 acres in all, there were no fewer than 130

acres of meadow to be mown ! And this is quite characteristic
of the valley of the Eden. The nature of the country between
Settle and Kirkby Stephen may be understood from a fact
communicated to us by one of the engineers upon the line.
As they proceeded in their survey and their work northwards
from Settle, they traversed thirty-two miles before they came
to a single ploughed field, and that, the first they met with, was
a field of potatoes near Bull Ghyll, and close to Kirkby
Stephen ! Even in the upper Edendale there is little arable
land, the greater part being pasture, which is found more
suitable to the climate and more profitable to the farmer.
There is less land under the plough than there was even a
few years ago. Our farmer friend told us that in haytime a
labourer on his land earns 2 a week, but that the custom of
the country is to hire the farm servants for the period of six
months. The labourers, who are mostly on his farm single
men, are boarded and lodged in the house, and receive 18
as the half-year's wages.

A footpath across the meadows, and near the Eden, led us
to another relic of former times.

Lammerside Castle appears to have no annals ; it was
formerly known as the Dolorous Tower. The remains stand
in the middle of a field between Wharton Hall and Pendragon
Castle. They consist of a small square keep and some traces
of foundations and walls in the adjoining field. Small apart-
ments, which may have been guard rooms, with vaulted roofs,
are now used apparently as shelter for cows. The stone is
the common stone of the country. Out of crevices in the walls
spring a few wild shrubs and flowers, and scraps of lichen
stain the walls with a brighter colour. A few remains of
arches, and of window lights may be observed. Still the
ruins are lacking in pirturesqueness, owing to their solitary
situation in the meadow, and the evident removal of all
adjuncts which might have interfered with the cultivation of
the land. One only thing seems certain, that these and
similar ruins are vivid memorials of a bygone state of society,
when all this district was again and again the scene of savage
border warfare.

Coutinuing our ascent of the valley of the Eden, less than
half-an-hour's walking brought us to a spot of historical, and
even romantic, interest, and to ruins of some beauty though of
no great extent. On a green knoll higher up the valley, and
near the little hamlet of Outhgill, rise the picturesque ruins of

100

Pendragon Castle. At this point the valley runs between the
sombre ridge on the east, known as Mallerstang Edge, with
a steep escarpment near its summit, and the massive pile of
mountain appropriately termed Wild Boar Fell on the west.
The Eden pursues its pleasant course among- the greenest of
meadows and pastures, here overshadowed by trees, and
there murmuring over scattered rocks amidst the open dale.
As we approached the Castle, we observed the moat, which
either was never completed, or more probably, became filled
up in places through neglect and decay, and we were re-
minded of the old couplet, which runs :

" Let Uther Pendragon do what he can,
Eden will run where Eden ran. "

For the tradition is, that Uther endeavoured to perfect the
defences of his fortress by leading the waters of the Eden
around it, but that all his efforts were ineffectual. This Uther,
chroniclers tell us, was surnamed Pendragon, on account of
having been likened to a dragon's head by Merlin, the
great prophet. He was an eminent warrior, and was father
of the famous King Arthur.

The reader will not need to be told that the present ruins
date from a period many centuries subsequent to the tradition-
ary events alluded to. There are occasional allusions to
Pendragon in authentic history, from the fourteenth century
downwards. Many and various were its fortunes. It was
burnt by the Scots in 1340, and having been again re-built,
was again laid in ruins in 1541 ; it was rebuilt by the Countess
of Pembroke in 1660, and was again all but demolished in
1685 by the Earl of Thanet. This Castle has been held by
various families, by Morvilles, Vetriponts, Cliffords, Earls of
Pembroke, and Earls of Thanet. " Here Sir Hugh Morville,
of a Norman house, lord of Westmoreland, one of the knights
implicated in the murder of a Beckett, held his brief but lordly
tenure, and his sword was long preserved in Kirkoswald
Castle as a memento of the assasination." The Countess of
Pembroke, mentioned above as one of the restorers of this
edifice, was the masculine woman whose indignant and defiant
reply to a minister of the crown, who attempted to force an
objectionable candidate upon one of her boroughs, has so
often been quoted: "I have been bullied by an usurper; I
have been neglected by a court ; but I will not be dictated to
by a subject. Your man shall not stand."

101

The site of so famous a stronghold is now occupied only by
the remains of a square keep a tangle within of mountain
ash and wild rose briars, of nettles and long" grass, mingling
among the disjointed scattered masonry. Hare-bells, blue
and white, woodruff, and tansy, grow luxuriantly among the
ruins, and the ruefern flourishes amid the crevices of the
crumbling walls. Here and there may be observed sandstone
coigns of a re-entrant shape, in one block of stone a
peculiarity of old masonry, not likely to be revived in days
when castles, if built, are built by contract.

Pendragon Castle can be seen from the railway just on the
south of Birkett tunnel : it stands on a knoll rising out of the
valley below. From the line just north of the same tunnel, a
glimpse is obtained of Lammerside Castle.

After so long a morning, spent in inspecting triumphs of
engineering skill and monuments of antiquity, we were not
unwilling to direct our steps to the hospitable town of Kirkby
Stephen. The highroad was the nearest, and therefore the
most welcome. As we skirted the lovely Eden, we could
sympathise with Old Drayton's lines :

"O, my bright, lovely brook, whose name doth bear the sound
Of God's first garden plot, th' imparadised ground,
\Yherein he placed man, from whence by sin he fell :
O, little, blessed brook, how doth my bosom swell
With love I bear to thee ; the day cannot suffice
For Mallerstang to gaze upon thy beauteous eyes. "

Passing through the ancient village of Nateby, where, as
in other dale villages, our hearts were cheered by beholding
the rising walls of a spacious board school, we soon reached
Stenkreth. At >tenkreth or Stankthred is a noble bridge,
which spans the Eden in a most romantic point of its course.
Looking below, the visitor sees the river eddying and whirling
at a depth of some 70 feet below; the circular holes or "pots"
are singular, and deserve observation ; they are from one foot
to six feet in diameter. The largest is called Coopkarnel
hole. Near this spot, it is said, was formerly a narrow
fissure, through which the river ran; sc narrow that it could
be spanned. The story goes that a drunken mason declared
that he would be the last to span it, and that he smote the
projecting rock with all his might, and broke it, and so
fulfilled his foolish word.

A few minutes brought us to the King's Arms, where we
found ourselves ready for a substantial luncheon, and in

102

the pleasant garden of which we lounged, enjoying the distant
views of the Westmoreland Fells, remarking, to our surprise,
the railway train steaming up the distant hill side on its way
to Darlington.

Kirkby Stephen, the second town of Westmoreland, is
situated in the rich green valley of the Eden, about a mile and
a half from the railway station, and about 300 feet below the
level of the line. It is a neat town, with a broad, clean street.
The houses, some of which are very good, are built of the
breccia of the district. There are halls for different societies,
and sundry places of worship.

The name Kirkby is indicative of Danish origin, and
signifies "church town." Stephen is the name of the patron
saint. The spacious and handsome church, the lofty tower of
which is conspicuous from every quarter, has recently been
very effectively restored. It contains several monuments of
interest. We noted especially one, consisting of three full-
length alabaster figures, viz., Thomas, the first Lord Wharton,
in the middle, and on the right side Eleanor, his first wife,
and on the left, his second wife, Anne. On the edge of the
monument is a Latin epitaph, which has thus been translated
into English rhyme :

"I, Thomas Wharton, here do lie,

With my two wives beside me ;
Ellen the first, and Anne the next,

In Hymen's bonds who tied me.
O, earth ! resume my flesh and bones,

Which back to thee are given ;
And then, O God, receive our souls

To live with Thee in heaven. "

A stiff walk of half an hour brought us to the railway
station.

Between Settle and Carlisle the only towns of importance
are K-irkby Stephen and Appleby. Now, Appleby is a county
town, and a famous town, with a castle, and a corporation,
and a history ! Appleby is not like a town that has just risen
a nouveau riche, like Shoddy town in the West Riding, or
Cast-iron ville in Cleveland. No ! Appleby was famous
when these were undreamt of. Though we won't insist upon
Julius Caesar having built the tower which bears his name,
is it not a fact, that Henry I. gave Appleby a charter of
privileges equal to York, viz., " Freedom from toll, stallage,
lastage, and pontage, throughout England, except in the
City of London ? " The charter of York was granted in the

103

morning-, and that of Appleby in the afternoon. A town that
was enfranchised by Norman Kings, that wrangled with the
Cliffords, treated with the Plantagenets, was burned by the
marauding- Scots, that defied the Lord Protector Cromwell,
that kindled bonfires and drank the King's health at the
Restoration, that boasts for its motto "NEC FERRO, NEC IGNI,"
and has on the reverse of the common seal the figure of St.
Lawrence on the gridiron, that was the scene of the famous
electoral contects between Brougham and the Lowthers, such
a town, to say nothing of its market, its fairs, and its assizes,
is a town that is not to be sneezed at, and we visited it in a
due, not to say a subdued, spirit of reverential enquiry.

Appleby, in its general appearance, certainly retains much
of its primitive character. It is approached from the railway
station by descending- a steep hill and crossing- the river Eden
by a handsome bridge, the views from which, both up and
down stream, are very pleasing. A short, narrow street leads
from the bridge to the main street of the town, the Borough
gate at right angles to the bridge street. This wide
thoroughfare has the cloisters and the church at the bottom,
and the castle at the top. There is a pillar (hardly to be
termed a town cross), with a fountain, at the lower end of the
town ; and a similar pillar, with a vane, at the upper end,
upon which latter is the inscription

" RETAIN YOUR LOYALTY ;
PRESERVE YOUR RIGHTS."

Very sound, judicious, and safe advice, certainly; but, "the
bearing of the remark lies in its application," and what that
may be we could not tell. Perhaps one line was contributed
by each of the two political parties ! The plain old motehouse,
-standing like a middle row, certainly does not improve the
appearance of the street ; the public shambles, a little higher
up, are a great disfigurement. On the left hand the visitor
will observe a row of almshouses ; and on the right some old
whitewashed and thatched tenements, quite of the olden times.
The Tufton Arms is the newest, and most spacious and
handsome edifice in Appleby. Here we put up, and found
ourselves in very comfortable quarters.

In the morning, having ordered breakfast, we thoug-ht we
might improve the time by paying a visit to the church ; but
we must confess that it was not to matins that we went, the
modern Anglican customs having apparently not as yet
penetrated to Appleby. The church stands in a convenient

104

position at the bottom of the Borough gate, and is approached
through cloisters and the church yard. According to the
sextoness, the original edifice was erected in 1113, but, it was
almost re-built in 1653 of course, by the inevitable Lady
Anne Clifford. In fact, during our pilgrimage to Craven and
the Settle and Carlisle district, we seem to have never been
out of the presence of Lady Anne. Here, in Appleby, Lady
Anne has been building almshouses, restoring the church,
repairing the castle, and, here in Appleby, Lady Anne is
BURIED at last!

A handsome and dignified church it is. The pointed arches
are fine, and the highly decorated flat ceiling of 1655 has
doubtless its admirers. But what shall we say of the pews
sacred to the accommodation of "the quality? " There is the
castle pew in its splendour well, we were so courteously
admitted to see the Castle, that we are willing to think the
inmates of this pew deserve their comfort. But there is the
Corporation pew ! Well^ the Mayor and Corporation are so
ancient that nobody knows when they began to be so nothing
can possibly be too good for them. No ! our municipal
institutions deserve to be treated with something more than
respect. So, after all, though we were a little disposed to
rebel, in a radical spirit, against the dignities of Appleby
Church, it appears that "whatever is, is right!"

Bnt the glory of Appleby Church is not its handsome pews,
or its handsome ceiling, or its old bibles, with the links still
left with which they were wont to be chained to the desk.
No ! something more glorious than all these is here. Here is
a marble monument and effigy to Lady Margaret a Russell
by birth, and a daughter of an Earl of Bedford and a
Clifford by marriage, to wit, the Countess of an Earl of
Cumberland and, above, all this, mother of Lady Anne !
But even this monument, imposing as it is, is not the flower
and crown, the ne plus ultra of Appleby Church.
HERE is THE TOMB OF LADY ANNE !

A black marble monument records her grandeur, in whose
veins flowed the blood of the Cliffords and the Russells, who
married successively the Earl of Dorset and the Earl of
Pembroke. Here, in splendid array, are spread before the
eyes of posterity the arms of all the Cliffords. So the old
countess was but mortal ! In Skipton Castle she first saw the
light, and no she-wolf ever fought more fiercely for her young
than Lady Anne for her barony of Skipton. Many a castle

did she rebuild: Skipton, Pendragon, and Appleby remain
to prove her "the restorer of waste places to dwell in."
"Crosses and contradictions" had she with two husbands;
and, however uncharitable the supposition may be, we cannot
but think her husbands must have had "crosses and contra-
dictions" with her! She had been "neglected by a court,
and bullied by an usurper," but the old lioness was " not to
be dictated to by a subject!" we trow not, indeed! However,
though she braved it out, saw the work of her hands, and
"lay," now in this castle, and now in that, of her own building
and her own property, she succumbed at last at the ripe age
of 87. And the historian tells of her. that "her house was a
school for the young-, a retreat for the aged, an asylum for the
persecuted, a college for the learned, and a pattern for all."
Nor must we forget that she erected the monument we have
all seen in Westminster Abbey to the memory of our great
poet, Edmund Spenser; and we have the testimony of Bishop
Rainbow to h; r worth, and not to he^- character only, but to
her tongue, for he says, in his funeral sermon for her ladyship
quoting Dr. Donne, (and we can well believe it), that "sh
could talk well on all subjects, from predestination to slea
silk." And here she lies, in her own country, and among the
scenes she knew, and the sacred shrines and princely homes
she edified or re-edified while she was yet "in the flesh."

Appleby Castle is at present the residence of Admiral
Elliott, who acts as steward to Sir Henry Tufton, whose
estates in Yorkshire and Westmoreland are extensive. Wish-
ing to see the old keep, we ventured, although it was only
nine in the morning, as our time was short, to apply for
admission. At the top of the street is the entrance to the
castle grounds ; indeed, the street leads nowhere else, and
there is nothing to do but to follow the example of the Duke
of York:-

"The Duke of York and all his men
Went up the hill and down again."

Applying at the modern stone house where the Admiral
lives, we were readily permitted to see the old tower known
as Caesar's tower, for what reason no one on earth seems to
know. It is near the house, just across the lawn, in a north-
westerly direction. It is a square, battlemented keep, with
four turrets at the angles, each turret surmounted by a vane.
The walls are partially mantled with ivy, in the very trimmest

io6

possible condition. The apartments are utterly neglected,
some being" empty, and some used for storing" timber.

Climbing" to the top of one of the turrets, we enjoyed a
splendid prospect. The castle is perfectly embowered in
plantations of ashes, walnuts, horse-chestnuts, and (what are
not common in this district) elm trees. The foliage altogether
hides the little town below, but beyond the walls, and the
moat, and the plantations, the country stretches in every
direction, and each prospect has some feature of interest
or of charm. Looking to the west and north-west, we
recognized the mountains of the lake district ; eastward rises
the massive range of Cross Fell ; to the south the horizon is
bounded by the mountains of north-west Yorkshire, whilst on
the north the view is more limited by the rising ground in the
vicinity. The Midland Railway may be traced in its progress
from Settle to Carlisle, and is in view for many miles of its
course.

Having seen the church and the castle, we conceived that
we had "done" Appleby, and we left it, feeling that its
interest lies more in the past chronicles it boasts than in any
existing splendour such as is wont to adorn the county towns
of our country. But what can be expected from a town which
has never gone a- head, but has been incontinently burned
down by those restless and marauding Scots ? Such a fate
was enough, surely, to discourage, in some slight measure,
even so gallant and stout-hearted citizens as the good burgesses
of Appleby.

A very interesting and enjoyable excursion in the county of
Cumberland, maybe made from Lazonby,- -including Kirkos-
wald and the far-famed Nunnery Walks. Descending from
Lazonby Station into the valley, we crossed the fine bridge
over the Eden, here of 60 or 70 yards in width, and followed
the lane towards Kirkoswald. Before reaching the town, we
turned to the left by a paved path leading through a noble
avenue of lime trees towards the parish church. This lies at
the foot of a hill, on the top of which is the campanile tower,
with three bells. It struck us as odd, though there are
similar cases elsewhere, that the tower and the church should
be placed at so great a distance one from the other. The
church consists of a nave, with aisles, which are of the
Transition period, from Norman to Early English. There are
monuments and brasses to various members of the family of
Featherstonehaugh, who have been settled here since the time
of James I.

ID;

At the west end of the church, below the west window, is a
well, supplied from a spring which issues from the hill, and
flows under the church. A chain and iron vessel are provided
that the traveller may slake his thirst from this most ecclesias-
tical source. The steps down to the well are within a decayed
enclosure of wooden paling".

In the churchyard are many gravestones, with curious
inscribed memorial brasses let into them, after the custom of
the country. These seem all to be of the present and the last
centuries. There are also two ancient gravestones of some
interest, both with crosses, one with a cross fleuree and
shears.

Before entering the town, we visited the ruins of the ancient
Castle of Kirkoswald, which will be found adjoining a lane
leading from the high road, a little east of the town. The
broken, uneven ground tells of the former extent and impor-
tance of the fortress. Among ashes and sycamores are many
fragments and some large portions of masonry still remaining.
The largest mass yet standing is what remains of an ancient
tower ; it may be sixty feet in height, and has small embrasured
windows looking without, and large windows apparently of
apartments which faced the castle yard. We saw a melancholy
horse emerge from what was once a dungeon, but is now a
stable or cow-house, fitted up with mangers and troughs.
We failed to recognise in the animal any signs of breeding
which might indicate descent from any of the caparisoned and
high-mettled war steeds which must once have gone forth,
prancing in their pride, from those castle gates, on errands of
warfare, or in quest of booty, or to repel a foray from the
north.

This castle was originally founded about 1201 by Randolph
Eugayne ; was greatly improved by Sir Hugh Morville and
succeeding owners, and especially by the Dacres.

Kirkoswald is the best point from which to visit the
celebrated and beautiful grounds of The Nunnery. After
partaking of an abundant luncheon at the little homely inn,
the Featherstone Arms, we availed ourselves of the kind
services of Mr. Milton, who makes his home at the inn, and
who, having lived as butler with the neighbouring family for
many years, is well acquainted with the country, and is
disposed to assist the tourist with his knowledge and guidance.

It is a pleasant walk across the fields, and by the manor
house of Staffold, to the nunnery. The original convent was

io8

founded by William Rufus. At the dissolution of monasteries
the property belonging to the convent was granted to the
family of Graham, from whom it passed into the hands of
the Aglionbys, who have held it for nearly two centuries.
The house, which is of red sandstone, was built in 1715. It
commands a fine view eastward.

The key of the Walks, which are readily made accessible to
visitors, may be obtained at the house. We passed under a
row of^spruce firs, the finest trees of the kind we remember to
have seen, as well as a stately row of beech trees. The
Walks border not only the river Eden, but a beck, the
Croglin, which, at this point pours its tributary flood into the
river. This part of the romantic scenery of the Nunnery has
been thus accurately and vigorously described: -"It may, we
think, be safely asserted that the Croglin, in this last part of
its course, for the space of a mile, during which it pours along
a deep ravine, has no equal. It first enters this savage dell
by a fall of 40 feet, forcing its way through a cleft into a deep
caldron, scooped out of the rock, in which the water is
agitated and whirled round in boiling eddies, till it finds an
escape by a narrow opening in one corner, whence it rushes
down several leaps, foaming over the large masses that
hinder its impetuous progress. The rocks are piled upon
each other to the height of IOO or 2OO feet, projecting their
bold fronts forward over the river, 'here scorched with
lightning, there with ivy green,' or grey with aged lichens
and mosses. On the other side the path is carried round the
protruding masses of rock on rudely framed galleries support-
ed by rough timbers, thus affording the best and most striking
views, because the rocks and woods on Mr. Aglionby's ground,
which are the grandest, are seen to the best advantage. At
one time you are on the margin of the water, beneath
overhanging crags, the brook before you rushing furiously
over moss-coloured fragments and stones, forming cascades
of exceeding beauty, whilst the trees, waving in the breeze,
reveal the shaggy rock that supplies their roots with scanty
nourishment. At another, you are on the brink of the
precipice, looking down into a dense mass of wood, out of
which the twisted branches of the rift oak, stripped of their
bark, 'toss their giant arms amid the skies,' contrasting with
the deep green behind, while the water is betrayed by its
sparkling sheen and softened roar." This language, though
strong, is not exaggerated. The beauty of the Nunnery

IO9

Walks is not exceeded, either by the Torrent Walk at
Dolgelly, or the Meeting- of the Waters at Lynmouth.

The following" are the chief points of interest : The waterfall
plunging down into the wooded glen ; the bower overlooking
the river a favourite spot for luncheon; a greensward lower
down, where gipsy parties boil the kettle and prepare tea,
and where al fresco dances are frequently got up by youthful
visitors ; the walk over the rocks and beneath the cliffs
overhanging the river. The Eden is here some sixty yards
in width, and is a good salmon stream, especially for young
fish ; opposite is Samson's Chamber, a large cave overlooking
the river, into which you crawl on hands and knees. Samson's
chuckie-chuckie stone is not far distant. Just above the
chamber is the Settle and Carlisle line, the construction ot
which, at this spot was a work of great difficulty, owing to the
crumbling and unstable character of the soil.

Upon our return to Kirkoswald we admired the fertile
meadows and pastures through which we passed, and were
told by our guide that the usual rent of land is about 405. or
455. an acre; but that some exceptionally good meadow land
in this valley lets at 8 an acre ! We passed through the
fields of one farmer who grazes 3000 sheep. The aspect of
the country speaks of plenty and prosperity.

A good walker may extend this excursion to Armathwaite,
where is the modernized castle, which was for centuries the
home of the Skeltons, and the situation of which is very
romantic, among the rocky wooded heights overlooking the
course of the Eden.

If, however, the visitor return to Lazonby station, he should
endeavour to make a pilgrimage to "Long Meg and her
Daughters,'' interesting remains of British Druidism, situated
about half a mile south of the church of Addingham, on a
very elevated site.

The remains consist of 67 unhewn upright stones, forming a
circle 350 feet in diameter. The stones are of different
formations, and "there is great disparity in their height and
sizes, for while some of them are ten feet high above the
ground, and fifteen or sixteen feet in circumference, others are
not more than two or three feet in height. Many of them are
now prostrate on the ground." Meg herself stands eighteen
feet high, and is fifteen feet in girth round her waist, and her
four angles face the four points of the compass.

CH A PTER XIII.
GEOLOGY OF CRAVEN.*

E district to which the preceding pages profess to be a
Guide includes the greater part of the Deanery of
Craven, and a portion of the Archdeaconry of Richmond,
or, in other words, of nearly the whole of the Wapon-
take of Staincliffe, and a part of Ewcross; Horton in
Ribblesdale, Clapham, Ingleton, and Thornton being in the
latter Wapontake. Birigley, and parts of Addingham and
Keighley are in Skirack, and a part of Ilkley in Claro ; the
four latter are included in Craven by Dr. Whitaker, but are
only incidentally mentioned in this volume. It may here be
noticed that the derivations of Craven British Craigvan, the
district of rocks, and Staincliffe Anglo Saxon Ston and Clyff,
are nearly identical.

This district has always held a high rank with regard to
the attractive character of its scenery, and those peculiar
natural features which invariably accompany the massive
deposits and dislocations of mountain limestone ; and to the
Geologist, the Mineralogist, the Antiquarian, and the Botanist,
as well as to the lover of Landscape, presents a field of no
ordinary interest.

As the nature, character, and extent of the various strata
which compose a district are so intimately connected with
scenic effects, a sketch, at least, of the Geology becomes a
necessary part of the Topographer's task a task in the
present instance rendered comparatively easy by the accurate
researches and admirable work of Professor Phillips on the
Geology of "Yorkshire. In the recognised order then the
Silurian first claims attention.

This Chapter on the Geology of the district is taken from Howson's Guide to Craven, with
slight additions and alterations.

Ill

SILURIAN.

The great mass of Silurian which forms Hougill and
Casterton Fells is bordered on the east by the range of the
Pennine Fault, as faf south as Kirkby Lonsdale, where the
Pennine turns suddenly to the E.S.E. and receives the name
of the Craven Fault. Near Ingleton the Fault splits into two ;
the northern branch running" by the north end of Clapham
Tarn, Austwick, Stainforth, and Malham Tarn, whilst the
southern takes its course by Clapham Village, Austwick (south
end) Buckhaw Brow and Giggleswick Scars, through Giggles-
wick and Settle, up Stockdale and on eastwards by the foot
of Malham Cove through Skirethorn, and crosses the Wharfe
near Grassington. The Silurian rocks appear north of the
northern Fault, where the rivers have cut down to them, the
greatest spread being in the valley of the Ribble, from
Stainforth to above Horton and westwards to the valley lying
between Moughton and Norber,- and south of it on the south
east of Malham Tarn. For miles in length the junction of the
nearly level surface of the Silurian and the great plateau of
Lower Scar Limestone which supports Whernside, Ingle-
borough and Penyghent may be distinctly seen, and the fissures,
joints, and laminae of the supporting slate, with the horizontal
beds and vertical joints of the limestone are very striking. In its
course from Kirkby Lonsdale the Silurian forms a remarkable
hollow between the limestone hills, reaches a height of 750
feet, three miles above Ingleton, and attains an elevation
of 1 166 feet, under the south front of Moughton. In
Casterton Fells it rises to a height of 1400 feet, and in Hougill
Fells 2220 feet. In the latter Fells the peculiar scenic effects
of the Silurian are well displayed ; there it forms high conical
hills, with steep, smooth, and regular slopes, meeting in
narrow and angular valleys, and covered with a green coarse
herbage. Although narrow and depressed between the
Craven Faults, its appearance beneath the horizontal limestone
at Moughton, Norber, Ingleton, and more especially at
Thornton Foss produces singular effects in the landscape.

The great change of mineral character and structure
between the slates of Ingleton and Ribblesdale, along the
same line of stratification, is very remarkable ; and not less
interesting is the spectacle of their complete overthrow to
nearly vertical positions, and the subsequent wearing down of
their surface to a singularly even plane.

112

In the blue roofing slates of Ingleton the cleavage planes
present a constant course to the S.E., dipping slightly to the
S.W., whilst cross joints run vertically to the N., and oblique
joints dip to the N.E. Some of the cleavage planes are
covered with arborescent films, and cubical crystals of iron
pyrites are commonly met with.

Besides the dykes in connection with the Whin in Tynedale
and Teesdale, two interposed igneous rocks only have been
observed in Yorkshire, and these are at Ingleton ; the most
distinct being only a few feet wide, and projecting like a wall
from the left bank of the Greta about one hundred yards
below the slate quarries. The composition of the stone is
peculiar; red felspar, occasionally in large masses, hornblende
and mica, sometimes in broad flakes; it is commonly called
greenstone, but more properly micaceous syenite.

The Ribblesdale Slates, which correspond with the " Conis-
ton Flags" of Professor Sedgwick, are widely expanded, and
have been worked at many points, and perhaps a finer
flag-stone is nowhere found. In the quarries under Moughton,
on Swarth Moor, and at Studfold, the position and structure of
the rock may be readily, observed. Of the two sets of planes
which divide the rock into rhomboidal prisms, the one called
spires is very obvious, and separates the rock into tables of
great extent and uniform thickness ; the other, more indistinct,
is called bate, and may be considered to be the laminar
structure, whilst the spires are the planes of stratification. It
is quarried in a peculiar manner, with attention not only to
the structure, but to the situation and dryness, and the joints,
nodules, limited depth of the tabular separations, &c., make
the quarrying rather a hazardous speculation. The thickness
of these flags in Ribblesdale is supposed to be not less than
two thousand feet.

MOUNTAIN LIMESTONE.

Phillips divides this series into two general types by a line
drawn through Kettlewell to Ryeloaf, and thence westwards
to Lancaster, and he states his belief that this line divides the
oceanic from the littoral portion of the great limestone deposit.
The following table is necessary in order to understand
the two series and their subdivisions.

NORTHERN SERIES.

SOUTHERN SERIES.

ack

UPPER GROUP. - ,

( Limestone & Shale

LOWER GROUP, j Nearly undivided.

UPPER GROUP, [Limestone.

(Yoredale Rocks of V . , A r .
rsL'ir j H Laminated Gnt.

Phillips) composed ! T .

Limestone.

(Shale.

LOWER GROUP, f Partially divided
(Scar Limestone), (by shales.

NORTHERN SERIES. Lower Group. Commencing with the
widest expanse and greatest thickness ( 1000 feet) of the Lower
Scar Limestone, it is found to fill Kettlewelldale from Buckden,
it then turns up Littondale almost to its source, and covering
Hardflask, forms a general base of Fountains Fell, Scoska Moor,
and Penyghent, thus uniting Wharfedale with Ribblesdale.
The southern boundary of this great area passes along a line
of dislocation from Threshfield to Malham, and, bending to
the north round Ryeloaf, is continued to Settle. Its lofty
escarpments then turn along the course of the Ribble as far
as Stainforth, where the slate is brought up to the surface by
the northern branch of the Craven Fault. Beyond, it again
resumes its parallelism to the river, and three miles above
Horton fills the whole valley. Again to the south and west it
presents a great undulated floor of bare limestone rocks
around the slopes of Ingleborough, and borders the valleys at
Wharfe, Clapham, and Ingleton, with magnificent and con-
tinuous scars. This vast range, together with the southern
one which is traced by Giggleswick Scar, Feizor, Austwick,
Xewby, and Ingleton. marks the double line of dislocation, so
well known by the name of the Great Craven Fault.

Throughout this large area the limestone rock is nearly
undivided, and presents one vast calcareous mass four or five
hundred feet thick, and this mighty range is but the edge of a
plateau, which underlies the whole of the elevated region from
Wharfedale to the valley of the Tyne. With regard to the
extent of the dislocations caused by the Craven Faults, it was
thought by Professor Phillips, that the northern drop is about
three hundred feet, whilst the total depression under Ingle-
borough is not less than three thousand feet, about Settle one
thousand, and it diminishes towards Grassington, where
numerous other dislocations confuse but do not destroy its
effects. The limestone beds are not usually conspicuous
along the line of the axis of disturbance ; enough however can

be seen to assure us that while the elevated beds rise slightly
to the Fault, the depressed beds fall steeply to the south ; they
are no where vertical, and the angle of their inclination
continually diminishes eastwards. From the point where the
southern Fault becomes distinct in Giggleswick Scar there is
a very violent southward dip of the depressed beds ; and at
Feizor, Kirkby Fell, and Malham Moors the elevated beds
rise slightly to this Fault. At Giggleswick the lower level
limestone is opposed to the inclined millstone grit of Ingle-
borough, indicating a slip of one thousand feet ; and the same
is the case at Ryeloaf and Brown Hill.

Malham Tarn is on the line of the great northern slip,
three hundred feet below the bold escarpment ; the Cove is
parallel to the southern Fault. The valley from Malham
downwards is full of dislocations and varying dips, especially
at Kirkby Malham, the general result being a dip of the
depressed beds from the great Fault for one mile, and then a
rise in the same direction, so as to expose a considerable tract
of the Upper Craven Limestone about Calton, Otterburn,
Coniston, and Eshton, thus connecting them with the range of
Limestone, by Flasby, Rylstone, and Burnsall. The hollow
caused by the southern slip reaches Wharfedale between
Kilnsey and Threshfield, where it falls into another system of
dislocations, having had an uninterrupted course from North-
umberland to Wharfedale, a distance of one hundred and
thirty miles.

It is the Lower Scar Limestone chiefly which gives to the
district of Craven those marked features which must always
interest the lover of landscape and the geologist. It produces
the characteristic scenery of Bolland, Wharfedale, Upper
Airedale, and Ribblesdale. And the Scars along its southern
edge rearing their barrier-fronts along the pastoral dales,
form a magnificent base and foreground for the lofty moun-
tains which rise above them.

In general, broad surfaces, mighty cliffs, frequent and deep
clefts, chasms, and caves, constitute the typical character of
this lower limestone floor. To it Gordale owes all its
magnificence, whilst other cascades, as Thornton and Scaleber,
owe much of their distinctive features to the top of the fall
only being guarded by a durable ledge of limestone, and the
lower parts filled with wasting argillaceous beds. The caves
are most frequent where the limestone is thickest, and not
divided by shales or grits, and so elevated as to permit the

water to pass down, or to justify the suspicion that in some
former condition it may have passed. They mainly owe
their extent, enlargement, or modification to the eroding-
influence of spring's and subterraneous streams. The joints
and bedding planes which so numerously intersect the rock
no doubt facilitate this excavating process, and those which
have a flat roof, indicating a bedding plane, are generally
found to be the most roomy and of the greatest extent.

Upper Group, or Yoredale Rocks. In the upper part of
Wensleydale this series has the greatest degree of complexity
and attains the thickness of one thousand feet, and nearly the
same particulars of complexity are found in Whernside. In
Ingleborough this series is composed of about one thonsand
feet of limestones, plates and laminated grits ; and near the
top is a crinoidal limestone forming a prominent scar, thirty
feet thick, called the Main Limestone, covered with alternating
grits and plates ; and the whole is crowned with a pebbly
millstone grit. In Penyghent, also, and Fountains Fell, the
main limestone occurs under a cover of the same grit,
surmounted by shales and flagstones, with coal.

Between the Craven Fault and Upper Wharfedale the
Yoredale series partially covers a large oval space of lower
limestone, and is much elevated, including Birks, Litton Hill,
Raisgill Hag, Cam, Cosh Knot, Hardflask. Scoska, &c.

The variations in the series which compose the Yoredale
rocks produce corresponding effects in the landscape. In
general, the limestones always project, argillaceous beds form
straight, undulated or obscure slopes, and the grit occasionally
makes rough angular edges ; this latter, indeed, is so mixed
with plate that it does not often assume the character which it
does under more favourable circumstances. In Ingleborough
and Penyghent the main limestone projects into a mural
precipice, and below it there is a uniform slope of several
hundred feet. In Bowland. and south of the Craven Fault, the
series being almost wholly shale, with interlaminated lime-
stones in its lower part, presents only sloping surfaces below
the grit summits, and smooth rounded hills in all the large
region between Ribblesdale and the border of the Yorkshire
coalfield. Although the lower limestone produces those
grand escarpments which guard the dales, the facility of
waste in the Yoredale series has cleared their broad surfaces,
formed many extensive denudations and insular hills, and is
the cause of much of the grandeur and peculiarity of the
district.

SOUTHERN SERIES. Lower Limestone. The lower limestone
occupies a considerable extent of country in the vale of the
Hodder, and in Bowland. It fills oval spaces in the midst of
a mountain country whose higher parts are surmounted with
millstone grit, and the intermediate slopes are formed with
shales and grits. It is not from the lowness of this part of
Craven that the limestone comes to day; it is in fact uplifted,
for the country S. W. of the Craven Fault has its own system
of disturbances, consisting of anticlinal axes, and whilst the
northern dislocations are remarkable for sudden and violent
fracture and partial displacement, the southern consist only of
steep anticlinal ridges, causing a long system of parallel
undulations and contortions, and giving to the district its
most striking features.

The principal mass of this limestone shows itself in the
Trough of Bowland, Slaidburn, Whitewell, Downham, Rim-
ington, and Lothersdale.

Upper Group. The dark laminated limestone of Craven
appears as much connected with the shale above as with the
lower member of the mountain limestone. It may be consid-
ered as forming a passage into the Yoredale series.

An excellent section of these beds is seen in the quarry of
the Leeds and Liverpool Canal near Thornton, where alterna-
tions of calcareous and argillaceous beds rest upon a thick
mass of laminated and crinoidal limestone. Similar beds
occur at Gisburne, Broughton, in the quarries near Skipton
and in Lothersdale, and in the valley between Skipton and
Bclton Abbey. North of Skipton is another line of nearly
parallel elevated limestone, ranging from Flasby. by Craco
and burnsal, towards Nidderdale, and dipping distinctly
beneath the grit summits of Rylstone and Flasby Fells.
Northwards it expands largely up Kettlewelldale and Lang-
strothdale, whilst in Littondale and at Kilnsey it joins the
great limestone plateau of Malham Moors. The thickness
of the limestone exposed between Kettlewell and Great
Whernside is about nine hundred feet. It is often liable to a
local change into a crystallized yellowish rock, full of nodules
and cells of calcareous spar ; in this state it is called by the
miners "dun lime," and is said to destroy the productiveness
of the mineral veins.

The shales, which represent the Yoredale series, occupy a
large area in the southern part of Craven ; extending east and
west from Bolton Abbey to Bowland, and north and south from

Ryeloaf to Pendle. The best exhibitions of this series may be
seen in the Trough of Rowland, on the west front of Pendle
in the Hodder near Stonyhurst, in its upper sources above
Slaidburn, and in various parts of the Ribble between Clitheroe
and Settle. It covers the limestone ridges of Lothersdale,
Skipton and Craco, is rich in fossils at Flasby, curiously
contorted at Bolton Abbey, and is almost universally found
beneath the pastures in the lower and central parts of Craven.
Its thickness below Pendle Hill and at Skipton is about four
thousand feet, but in Bowland probably less. A good
description of these beds is given in the Geological Survey
Memoir, " On the Burnley Coalfield, &c."

MILLSTONE GRIT.

The millstone grit rests on the Yoredale series ; both consist
of limestones, sandstones, shales, ironstones, and thin coal
seams, but while limestones abound in the lower series,
sandstones predominate in the upper, and the limestones
become almost obliterated. Their common boundary is thus
not easy to be determined. In all the Bowland district above
the limestone masses lies one very thick gritstone group, and
from the Lancaster side of Bowland it passes by an easy
gradation to the more varied series of grit on the west of the
Lune, a series intermediate between those of Ingleborough
and Bowland. South of the Craven Faults is a narrow band
of elevated gritstone country, which from Giggleswick and
fettle eastwards presents a singular rivalry to the limestone
band between the Faults. Thus, at Giggleswick the grit is
opposed to the limestone, both one thousand feet ; so Ryeloaf,
one thousand seven hundred and ninety five feet, opposes the
limestones of Kirkby Fell, one thousand eight hundred feet ;
and the grit of Brown Hill, one thousand two hundred and
fifty eight feet, meets the limestone of Boardley, one thousand
three hundred and fifty two feet. It crowns most of the hills
between Whernside in Ingleton Fells and Great and Little
Whernside in Kettlewelldale, and ranging by Grassington,
exists in great force in Flasby, Rylstone. and Burnsal Fells,
appears at the Strid and Bolton Bridge, and on the southern
ba..k of the Wharfe, from near Harewood to Skipton, forms
the outcrop of the floor of the Great Yorkshire Coal Field.

The millstone grit is an important element in the scenery of
the eastern and western boundary and hig-h summits of
Craven. Its elevation and structure, and the coldness and
humidity of the climate favour the growth of heath and sedgy
grass, which almost extirpate other vegetation, and form a
surface of dreary moorlands, far less serviceable to the
agriculturalist than much loftier hills of slate. It is often
concealed, except in torrents, but sometimes the escarpments
appear in bold craggy fronts, which from their wasting and
ruinous appearance, may well rival in interest the famous
Granite Tors of Devonshire. Rowland Knotts will well
repay a visit.

COAL.

The singular coal field in the low valley of the Greta,
between Ingleton and Burton, bears a complete analogy to
the field on the South Tyne. Both are far detached from the
large tracts to which they appear related ; both range east
and west, and both lie at the foot of an escarpment of rocks
much older than themselves, and rest on the same rocks sunk
by dislocation, in one case, more than two thousand feet.

The Ingleton bed is not a basin % as would at first sight
appear, deposited after a dislocation, for the planes of stratifi-
cation have only a north-eastern dip, which is not the original
position, but owing to the Faults making depressions to the
south. It has only one outcrop visible to the south, the
western is obscured by drifts, and the north-east edge is sunk
deep, and terminates on the plane of the south Craven Fault.
On the west and south the subjacent grit comes to the surface,
and it is seen on the south and south-west that .at this insulated
spot, two thousand feet below the summit of Ingleborough,
some of the lower strata of the far distant Lancashire and
Yorkshire Coalfields lie not only above the millstone grit of
Penyghent and Ingleborough, but even above rocks usually
several hundred feet above them in the scale of strata. At
the Burton end the beds are not cut off by any Fault, but are
said to thin off to nothing.

The dip of the coal is northerly ; two workable seams occur,
the upper and best four feet thick, another, forty yards deeper
has a thickness of from seven to ten feet. It is remarkable

that in the deep coal there are two parallel layers of light blue
pipe-clay, with a pure jet or cannel coal between them. The
extent of the coalfield to the north of the Greta has never yet
been fairly tried. Rising from below the Ingleton coalfield in
the direction of Holland, is a series of millstone grits and
shales, enclosing two coal seams, which have been worked,
besides others of less thickness. They have been worked at
Bentham, Mewith, Tatham, Smear Hall, Clintsfield, &c.

MINERAL PRODUCTIONS.

It is evident from the local abundance of mineral veins in
the neighbourhood of great lines of Fault and their paucity in
the undisturbed limestones, that they have a near connection
with systems of dislocation. Accordingly we find that mineral
veins are frequent in Craven. Productive veins of lead have
been found in Rowland, at Whitewell and Brennand, Grassing-
ton, Kettlewell, Arncliffe, Buckden, and Malham. In the
mountain limestones occur the sulphides of lead, copper, iron,
and zinc ; the oxide of iron ; and an oxide of zinc, in the
form of a white powder is found at Malham. At Grassington
and Kettlewell there are productive ores of lead both in
the limestone and millstone grit. A green phosphate of lead
is occasionally found on Grassington Moor. The carbonate
of zinc, or calamine, has been raised in the compact and
pseudomorphous forms at Arncliffe, Kettlewell, and Malham,
in large quantities. The sulphuret of iron or iron pyrites
occurs plentifully in the slate quarries at Ingleton, and in
some of the mines. Hydrous peroxide of iron, or brown
haematite is found among the broken stones and in the soil
under Giggleswick Scar; and bog iron ore, a variety of
haematite, but of recent formation, has been found on Blea
Moor. Ironstone nodules intersected by septa of carbonate
of lime, called septaria, are found on Rathmell Moor, and
more especially of great size and beauty in Kettlesbeck, near
Eldroth, where they have been washed out of the shale beds
by the flood. Quartz in clear and regular but small crystals,
is found plentifully in the hills above Settle, and darkly
coloured with iron, on Giggleswick Scars. Calcareous spar
is abundant in the mineral veins, and the stalactite forms will
be found in beautiful variety in most of the numerous caverns,
but more especially in the Ingleborough Cave, the most
instructive Cavern, perhaps, in the kingdom.

I2O

CHAPTER XIV.

BOTANY OF CRAVEN.

r HE plants named in the following list are less common
plants to be found within a radius of from ten to
fifteen miles around Settle. A local Flora is to be
obtained from the publisher of this work.

RANUNCULACE/E.

Thalictrum minus. Giggleswick Scar
Gordale.

flavum. Frequent

Ranunculus auricomus. Clapdale

Trollius europaeus. Malham Cove

Stainforth Force

Helleborus viridis. Wharfe

foetidus. Feizor

Aquilegia vulgaris. Stainforth

Actoea spicata. Ingleborough, Mal-
ham, Penyghent

NYMPHjEACE/B.
Nuphar lutea.

Kibble

PAPAVERACE^E.

Papaver dubium. Occasional

Meconopsis cambrica. Stackhouse
Corydalis' claviculata. Settle

Corydalis lutea. Langcliffe

CRUCIFER./E.

Thlaspi alpestre Lead Mines,

on the way to Malham
Hutchinsia petrsea. Malham Tarn
Lepidium campestre. Settle

Cochlearia officinalis. Frequent

alpina. do.

Draba incana. Attermire

muralis. Malham, &c.

Cardamine amara. Horton, &c.

impatiens. GiggleswickScar

Sisymbrium Thalianum

Arabis hirsuta. Kelcowe

Barbarea proecox. Stackhouse

Hesperis matronalis. Settle, Gargrave

RESEDACE/E.

Reseda luteola. Giggleswick.

lutea. do.

CISTACEjE.
Helianthemum canum. MalhamCove

VIOLACE^E.

Viola odorata. Settle Bridge

palustris. Horton, Huntworth
hirta. Kelcowe

lutea Malham Moor

DROSERACE^E.

Drosera rotundifolia. Helwith Moss

CARYOPH YLLAC EjE.

Saponaria officinalis. Austwick

Silene maritima. Kilnsey Crag and

Whernside

Lychnis vespertina. Occasional

121

Arenaria verna. Lead Mines

Stellaria nemorum . Trow Gill and

Rathmell

glauca. Malham Tarn

uliginosa. Giggleswick

Cerastium semidecandrum.
triviale.

MALVACE^.

Malva moschata. Bolton Abbey

rotundifolia. Thornton

HYPERICACE^E.

Hypericum humifusum. Giggleswick
Scar

hirsutum. do.

montanum. Gordale

GERANIACE^E.

Geranium phceum. Wharfe.Clapham

sylvaticum. Bolton Abbey

and Malham

imptiens Paper Mill

parviflora Langcliffe

sanguineum. Ltl. Stainforth

CELASTRACE/E.
Euonymus Europaeus.

Feizor

RAMNACEJE.

Rhamnus catharticus. Giggleswick
Scar

LEGUMINO&B.

Lotus major. Settle

Ononis spinosa. Austwick

Trifolium filiforme Settle

Hippocrepis comosa. GiggleswkScar

Vicia sylvatica. Birkwith, Horton

cracca. Settle

Lathyrus pratensis. do.

macrorrhizus. Giggleswick

ROSACES.

Dryas octopetala. Arncliffe

Potentilla verna. Kelcowe

alpestris. Gordale.

Rubus chamoemorus. Ryeloaf

saxatilis. Clapdale, &c.

Rosa spinosissima. Cave Ha' Wood

villosa. Stackhouse

inodora. Cave Ha' Wood

micrantha. Lodge Gill

Sabini. Ingleton

arveosis. Rathmell

Poterium sanguisorba. Giggleswick
Scar

Pyrus aria. Horton, &c.

torminalis. do.

ONAGRACE^:.

Epilobium alpinum Ingleborough
palustre. do.

PORTULACE^;.

Montia fontana. Common

GROSSULARIACE/E.
Ribes alpinum. Stainforth

CRASSULACE^.

Sedum Rhodiola. Penyghent

villosum. Swarth Moor

SAXIFRAGACE^.

Saxifraga umbrosa. Ling Gill

aizoides. Chapel-le-dale,

Ingleborough

oppositifolia. Penyghent
Geum Weathercote

stellaris. Ingleborough
hypnoides. Winskill Scar
Chrysosplenium altemifolium

Common
Parnassia palustris. Catterick Force

UMBELLIFER/^.
Helosciadium nodiflorum.

Giggleswick
Pimpinella saxifraga. Common

magna. do.

Sium angustifolium. Settle

CEnanthe crocata. Rathmell

Silaus pratensis

Myrrhis odorata. Frequent

Sanicula Europsea Stackhouse

CAPRIFOLIACE^.
Sambucus Ebulus. Austwick

RUBIACE5!.

Galium saxatile. Giggleswick Scar
sylvestre. Malham, &c.

boreale. Kilnsey & Malham

VALERIANACE.E .

Valerianella olitoria. Stainforth Scar

122

DIPSACE^!.

Scabiosa columbaria Settle

Knautia arvensis do.

COMPOSITE.

Tragopogon pratensis Settle, Horton
Hypochseris radicata do.

Lactuca muralis Settle, Stackhouse
Crepis virens Settle

succissefolia Stainforth

paludosa Banks of Ribble
Hieracium vulgatum do.

Lawsoni Stockdale

prenanthoides Stainforth

Force

boreale Ribble Banks

umbellatum Settle

Serratula tinctoria Clapham

Carduus Marianus Bolton Abbey

heterophyllus Stackhouse,

Feizor

Carlina vulgaris Settle Hills, &c.

Antennaria dioica Giggleswick Scar

Gnaphalium sylvaticum Merebeck

uliginosum Eldroth

Senecio sylvaticus Cocket Moss

viscosus Settle

erucsefolius Runley Bridge

Saracenicus Ingleton

Matricaria Parthenium Lawkland

inodora Malham

Inula dysenterica Merebeck

Chrysanthemum segetum Rathmell

CAMPANULACE.fi.

Campanula hederacea Gargrave
Jasione montana Rathmell

ERICAEjE.

Andromeda polifolia Horton

Vaccinium Vitis Idcea Ryeloaf

Pyrola minor Clapdale, Malham

OLEACE.E.

Ligustrum vulgare GiggleswickScars

APOCYNACEJE.

Vinca minor Buckhaw Brow

GSNTIANACEJB.

Gentiana amarella Giggleswick Scar
Menyanthes trifoliata HelwithBridge
Polemonium cseruleum Gordale

SCROPHULARIACEJB.

Veronica serpyllifolia Common

anagallis Giggleswick

agrestis Frequent

montana Crow Nest, &c.

Bartsia Alpina Malham

Melampyrum sylvaticum Giggleswick

Mimulus luteus ' Horton

OROBANCHACE.fi.

Orobanche rubra Attermire

minor Malham

Lathrsea squamaria Cave Ha' Wood

LABIATE.

Mentha viridis Ribble Banks

sativa Settle

piperita Giggleswick

arvensis do.

Origanum vulgare Winskill Scar

Lamium amplexicaule Settle

incisum do.

Galeopsis tetrahit Common

versicolor Settle

Calamintha Clinopodium do.

Stachys Betonica Frequent

palustris Settle

sylvatica do.

Scutellaria galericulata Rathmell

VERBENACEJ3.

Verbena officinalis Wennington

BORAGINE.fi.

Myosotis repens Penyghent

Lithospermum officinale Crow Nest
Symphytum tuberosum Ribble

Anchusa sempervirens Wharfe, &c.

PRIMULACEJE.

Primula farinosa Common

Anagallis tenella Rathmell

PLUMBAGINACEJE.
Armeria maritima Stockdale

PLANTAGINACE.fi.

Plantago maritima Kilnsey

CHENOPODIACE^!.

Chenopodium rubrum Common
Atriplex patula Ribble Bank

123

POLYGONACK^.

MELANTHIACEJE.

Polygonum viviparum Feizor

Colchicum autumnale Giggleswick

Rumex aquaticus Helwith Moss

ALISMACE/E.

THYMELACE.E.

Triglochin palustre Cockit Moss

Daphne laureola (planted) Feizor

NAIADACE^E.

mezereon do. do.

Potamogeton densua Kibble

pectinatus do.

EMPETRACE.fi.

Empetrum nigrum Helwith Moss
Euphorbia exigua Common

crispus do.
perfoliatus do.
natans do.

UETICACE*.

JUNCACE/E.

Parietaria officinalis Bolton

Juncus glomeratus Common

Humulus Lupulus Giggleswick

effusus do.

lamprocarpus do.

AMENTIFERE.E.

squarrosus do.

Salix pentandra Giggleswick
viminalis

Luzula sylvatica do.
campestris do.

nigricans

Narthecium ossifragum Ingleboro'

repens

&C. &C &C.

CYPERACE/E.

Schsenus nigricans Ingleton

CONIFERjE.

Blysmus compressus Giggleswick

Juniperus communis Moughton
Taxus baccata Gordale, &c.

Scirpus sylvaticus Settle
Eriphorum vaginatum Giggleswick
polystachion do.

Carex divisa Settle

ORCHIDACE.E.

pulicaris do.

Listera cordata Ryeloaf

stellulata do.

Epipactis latifolia Giggles\vick

ovalis do.

palustris Stackhouse

curta do.

Orchis ustulata Settle

remota do.

latifolia Common

intermedia do.

Gymnadenia conopsea Giggleswick

teretiuscula

albida

vulgaris

Habernaria latifolia Helwith Moss

flava Settle

viridis Giggleswick

pallescens do.

Ophrys apifera Skipton

fulva do.

muscifera Settle

binervis do.

Cypripedium calceolus Amcliffe

laevigata do.

panicea do.

LILIACE^E.

strigosa

Alh'um Scorodoprasum Kilnsey

sylvatica do.

oleraceum Feizor

pendula do.

vineale Giggleswick

praecox do.

Convalaria majalis ' Settle

hirta do.

Polygonatum multiflorum Calton

ampullacea do.

officinale

vesicaria do.

paludosa ?

TRILLIACE/<E.

Paris quadrifolia P'requent

riparia ?

124

GRAMINE.E.
Phalaris arundinacea
Milium effusum

Agrostis alba Giggleswick

Arundo phragmites do.

Sesleria coerulea Giggleswick Scar

Aira flexuosa

caryophylla
Avena alpina

pubescens
flavescens
Triodia decumbens
Koeleria cristata
Melica uniflora

nutans

Molinia coerulea
Catabrosa aquatica
Poa alpina
pratensis
nemoralis
Briza media
Cynosurus cristatns
Dactylis glomerata
Festuca ovina

duriuscula
pratensis
loliacea

Bromus giganteus
asper

Common
do.
Settle
do.
do.
do.
do.

Giggleswick

do.

Ingleborough

Giggleswick

Common

do.

Triticum caninum
Nardus stricta

do.
do.

FILICES.

Ceterach officinarum Malham Rocks

Polypodium Phegopteris Clapham

Dryopteris Giggleswick

calcareum Settle

Allosurus crispus Fountains Fell

Cystopteris fragilis Common

Polystichum lonchitis Settle

aculeatum Ingleboro'

Lastrea Oreopteris Giggleswick

rigida Ingleborough

Asplenium viride Giggleswick Scars

Adiantum-nigrum Ingleton

Botrychium lunaria Giggleswick

Ophioglossum vulgatum Stackhouse

LYCOPODIACE^E.

Lycopodium clavatum Ingleboro'
alpinum do.

Selago do.

Selaginella
Selaginoides

Equisetum palustre Common

limosum Kibble Bank
variegatum Swarthmoor

CHAPTER XV.

DIALECT OF CRAVEN.*

S the subject of Dialects is an interesting" one, and that
of Craven has decided claims on an Anglo-Saxon
origin, and is unusually free from mere slang", a
cursory review of it may not improperly find a place in
this volume.

The tourist will meet with oral specimens in the peculiar
intonation which no orthography can convey, and as the usual
dialect specimens in the form of dialogues can hardly be
redeemed from the charge of vulgarity, a short specimen and
a selected list only of some of the words and phrases may
suffice.

The late Rev. Wm. Carr, of Bolton, an enthusiast in every
thing relating to Craven, says, ' I am more and more con-
vinced that my native language is not the contemptible slang
and patois which the refined inhabitants of the southern part
of the kingdom are apt to consider it; but that it is the
language of crowned heads, of the Court, and of the most
eminent English Historians, Divines, and Poets of former
ages." That there is some truth in this statement is shown
by the readiness with which most Craven words may be
derived from the Anglo-Saxon and other Germanic languages,
and their constant recurrence in such authors as Gawin
Douglas, Chaucer, Gower, Lydgate, and early Elizabethan
Poets.

Although the natives of Lancashire claim for their dialect a
Saxon origin, the peculiarly pastoral character of Craven, and
its freedom from an excess of manufacturing population argue
in favour of the antiquity and purity of its dialect, and there
is certainly more of euphony iu the Craven than in the open-

* From Howson's Guide.

126

mouthed dialect of Lancashire. In the district ranging- from
Halifax to Colne, at Howarth, and Heptonstall, the one
insensibly merges into the other ; and again in the valley of
Dent,* towards Sedbergh and Hawes, the Craven gradually
assimilates itself to the Westmoreland dialect.

Dr. Whittaker makes the curious suggestion that the two
nerthern scholars of Strother, whom Chaucer has made the
subject of his Reeves Tale, sprang from Langstrothdale, and
says that their dialect, evidently not the language of the
author, is precisely the modern dialect of Craven, thus :

" Our Manciple I hope he will be dede,
Swa werkes aye the wanges in his hede,
And therefore is I come and eke Alayn,
We pray you spede us heme in that ye maye ."

" 1 is full swift as a Raa."
" He shall not nat skape us bathe."
"Why ne hadst thou put the Capel in the Lathe."
And Whittaker adds that he is inclined to believe the story
a real one, or at least that Chaucer had heard the dialect of
Alan and John in Solere Hall.

Home Tooke remarks that Gawin Douglas's language,
though written a century after Chaucer, must yet be esteemed
more ancient; even as the present English speech in Scotland
is in many respects more ancient than that spoken so far back
as the reign of Queen Elizabeth. So Casaubon says of his
time, "The Scottish language is purer than the English of the
present day," where by "purer" he means nearer to the
Anglo-Saxon.

As a specimen of the continual occurence of Craven words,
phrases, and pronunciation in Douglas, note this passage in
his preface :

" Thocht sum -wold swarethzt I the text have varyit,
Or that I have this volume quite miscaryit,
Or threpe planelie that I come never nere hand it,
Or that the werk is werst that ever \fand it.
Be not ouer studious to spy ane mote in myn E. "

Further quotations from the same author will be found in
the following brief list of Craven words :
NEIF. A fist. Islandic, Nefi.

" Give me your neif, Monsieur Mustard Seed."

Midsummer Nigkfs Dream.

l n the VII Vol. of the Doctor an excellent specimen of the Dent dialect is given, entitled "A
Wonderful Story ot Terrible Knitters ee Dent."

127

FAIN. Glad. A.S., Feagn.

" For which they were as glad of his commyng,
As foule is faine when the sonne upryseth." Chaucn.

MELL. Meddle. Fr., Meier. Frequent in Spenser, &c.

MAAR. More. Pure Dutch. A.S., Mare.

AN. If. An is imperative of A.S. Anan, to give, as if is
imperative of Gifan, to give. "An you had an eye you
might see more detraction at your heels than fortunes
before you." Twelfth Night. "An I take the humour of a
thing once, I am like your tailor's needle, I go through."

Ben fonson,

GANG. To go. A.S., Gangan. Gang-day, Rogation Day.
Hence also Gangway in a ship.

ISTEEAD ON. Instead of. Danish, Istceden. A.S., Stede, a
place. Commonly in composition as gap-steead, door-
steead, fire-steead, &c. Of an obstinate fellow, " He'll
gang through if t'King's it gapsteead."

VARRA. Very. Fr., vrai. Anciently written veray, both in
French and English.

SCUNNER. Dislike. A.S., Ascunian, to shun.

MACKLY and AHMACKLY. Most likely. A.S., Macan, to make,
and Lie, like, the origin of the adverbial affix, ly. Likely
in A.S. would be Liclic, hence they say " Better an like"
Better than likely. Thus also their " Goodlike" is purer
Saxon than Goodly.

WAE WORTH YE. Woe be to you. A.S., Weorthan, which in
Anglo-Saxon and English is incorporated with Beon, to be.

"Wo worth the fayre gem vertulesse,
Wo worth that herbe that doth no bote,
Wo worth the beaute that is ruthlesse,
Wo worth that wight trede eche under fote." Chaucer.

KNAW. To know. A.S., Cnawan.

EFTER. After. A.S., CEfter.

ALD. Old. A.S., Eald. Hence local names, Aldgate,

Aldstone, &c.

BIGG. To build. A.S., Byogan. Occurs in Chaucer.
BRA AD. Ye braad o' me. You are like me, i.e., you are of the

same breed as me. A.S., Broeden.
KNOLL. To ring a funeral bell. A.S., Cnyllan. Hence

also Knell. Toll, absurdly derived from Tollo, is a

corruption of Knoll.
BAUK. A beam. Teutonic, Balcke.

128

BEEAL. To cry out. A.S., Boel, Grief. In Chaucer.
ESH. The ash. Teutonic, Esche.

ASK. Dry. Perhaps from Teutonic, Ascha, Ashes.

TAK UNCUTH. To take offence. A.S., Uncuth, strange, un-
usual, uncouth. Of a cross child, "Tothers hes been good
uns maks us tak uncuth at it."

WALLOW. Insipid. A.S., Walgen, to loathe.

PODDISH. A slight corruption of pottage, not porridge. Fr.,
Potage. " Poddish is wallow bout saut."

RIGGING. A roof. A.S., Wrigan, to cover.

SWOP. To exchange. A.S., Swipan, to sweep; where by
consent of the parties each sweeps off his share.

SCALE. To spread. A.S., to divide or separate. "I shall
tell you a pretty tale. It may be you have heard it, but
since it serves my purpose, I will venture to scale it a little
more. " Coriolanus.

ELSE. Short for Alice. Curiously enough the English word
"else" is in like manner contracted from the ancient Alyse,
Alys, Alles, Elles.

PLEEAN. To complain. A.S., Pleah, a plea.

CLEM. To hunger. A.S., Clemian.

YEAT. A gate. A.S., Geat. G in Anglo-Saxon was in-
differently pronounced as G or Y

YOWL. To howl. Gyllan. (See Peat above). Howl is as likely
to have sprung from this source as from the Latin Ululo.

NESH. Tender, squeamish. A.S., Nescian, to soften.

KITLING. Kitten. Ling, a Saxon diminutive.

LEET. Light. A-S,, Leant.

KITTLE. An inversion of " tickle."

TEW. To plague, to weary. A.S., Tawian, to tug.

AUMRY. Shady. Fr., Ombre.

OUT. Ought, anything. A.S., Awhit. "Too mich of owt's
good forjnowt."- - Craven Proverb.

MUCK. Dirt, A.S., Meox. "Better hev a bairn wi' a mucky
faace an wesh it nooas off." Craven Proverb.

BOOK. Bulk. " 'Bout book o' my neif." L not sounded, as
in balk, walk, &c. "Buick" in Scotland.
' ' Your tender buick I hafpit warm,
Wi' a' a mither's care. "

SHIPPON. A cow-house. From sheep-pen. Shipin in Chaucer.
SAGE. G, hard. To saw. A.S., Saga.

SHOG. To ride at a slow trot without rising in the stirrups.
From Shock, and perhaps more correct than jog.

129

OUTSHUT. An outbuilding-. A.S., Scythan, to throw forward.
"Some folks hes lile brains, and some's an outshut," i.e., an
additional department for brains. Craven Proverb. Hence
also the expression, "To get shut of," is as correct as "To
get quit of."

INSENSE. To enlighten. An expressive word and of obvious
derivation.

SPEAN. Wean. Perhaps from Spoon.

STICKLEBUTT. Immediately, quickly. As swiftly as an arrow
piercing the butt, or mark. When the bow was the Saxon's
weapon, every village had its practising ground, with two
raised mounds on which the butts were placed ; and how
commonly we find, to this day, a place in or about a village
called the "Butts." Horton, Clapham, &c.

PRYALL and RYALL. Three together. A corruption of Triad.

HAIT. Hot. A. S., Hat. " Hait as fyre.'' Douglas.

LEE. A lie. "That war ane manifest lee." Douglas. "If
leein wor choking thear'd be hard gasping." Craven Proverb.

BE. By. It was anciently written indifferently Be or By.

FLITE. To scold. A.S., Flytan. "Qua cannot hald thare
pece are fre to flite." Douglas.

SILE. To strain, as milk. A.S., Syl, filth.

HULL. A small building. Goth., Hulgan, to cover.

WHITTLE. To cut sticks. From the instrument, Whittle.
( A.S., Hwytel, a knife.

QUARRIL. A pane of glass. Fr., Quarreau.

PARLOUS. Perilous. "By'r Lakin a parlous fear." Mid-
summer Night's Dream. Most commonly used with tale or
speech, in which case it may be parless, peerless.

TINE. To shut. A.S., Tinian.

FEST. To send out, or bind as an apprentice. A,S., Fcest,
fixed.

FET. Fit. Hence Fettle, to mend.

SCHOO. She. A.S., Seo.

"Albane
Scho did behald amyd the fieldis plane." Douglas.

WHARFRA. Wherefrom.

" His fens lukis about on every side,

To see quarfra the grounding dart did glide. " Douglas.

LIEF. Have rather. A.S., Leof, participle of Lufian, to love.

" I had as lief not be, as live to be in awe

Of such a thing as I myself. " Julius Ctzsar,
WICK. Alive. A'.S., Cwic.

TAAH. Toe. A.S., Ta.

LIG. To lie. A.S., Liegan.

STAG. A young" horse. A.S., Stigan, to ascend. Coming" on,

as the farmers say.

STIDDY. An anvil. A.S., Stcedig, firm, fixed.
STIRK. A young- heifer. A.S., Stirc.
BOUT. Without. See Poddish. A.S., Be-utan, be out. But is

the same word, and now corruptly used for the ancient Bot,

from Botan.

"Bot thy werke shall endure in laude and glorie,
But spot or fait condigne eterne memorie." Douglas.

FAUT. Fault. Fr., Faute.

GUILIVAT. Vessel in which beer is left to ferment. Perhaps
from Gill, the Ground Ivy, Glechoma hederacea, a plant
formerly much used in domestic brewing 1 . Apropos of the
word, a Craven Fable may close this little dissertation on
Craven words.

T'MOUSE I T GUILEVAT.

Ane day thear wor a mouse tumell'd intut guilevat, an t'cat
sat a watchin on't. When it wor like to drown, it ses tut cat,
"If thou'l help me out, an let me shak mesel, thou's he* mah."
Saah t'cat agreead, an helpt it out, bud t'mouse ran off to it
hole. Ses t'cat, I thowt thou sed I mun he' thah." "Hei!"
says t'mouse wi' a gurn, " Bud folk ses owt when (her f drink."

Dr. Whittaker regrets that he was not able to retrieve any
remains of traditionary poetry written by natives of Craven.
"Their country," he says, "was romantic, their manners
pastoral, and their dialect poetical." There are a few remains
of the kind current, but they are mere doggerel, and yet there
is no doubt but that approaching so nearly as it does to the
Scottish, the Craven dialect might be a proper vehicle for the
ballad, or the pastoral song, after the manner and the metres
of the immortal Burns.

The following may serve as specimens.

TO A COVEY OF MOORGAME.

Iz't fear o' me at maks ye spring
Wi' sich a fearful flap ot' wing ?

My bonny brood !
Log saaf ith' beald ot' greenest ling,

Yer dainty food.

I'ze'ower fond o' life mesell,
An freedom too, to gang an fell

The likes o' ye ;
But thear's a day at I can tell,

When mooargam dee.

Whent' murdrous gun wi' sullen boom,
Shall send ye tul an eearly doom,

An ye's be med
To lig it' spooartsman's bag, ith' room

Ov heather bed.

It izn't lang sin first ye fand

Ther wings wad lift ye frae the land,

Toth' realms ov air ;
An soon ye'll fynd at shutter's hand

Al wound 'em sair.

Gay soon yer e'en nae mair sail greet
The dewy morning's misty leet,

Ont' mooarland wide :
An ye sail gang nae mair at neet

Ith' ling to hide.

In vain when cruel foes ye've kent,
Ye'll trembling steal along the bent,

Or cower ith' bog :
Wi' a" yer ways they're weel acquent,

Baith man an dog.

Thear's lambs at's killed wi't butcher's knife,
An ducks bith' hand oth' farmer's wife

Are doomed to dee :
Ye're favoured seur, to lose your life

Bith' Quality.

Bud od ye now, an dooant be flaad,
I izn't ane of sporting traad,

To hunt ye down ;
I'ze nobbut luk whar ye wor laid,

An then I'ze boun.

TO THE CRICKET.

Ye gamsome louper, what inspires ye
Wi' yer feckless chirping sang ?

The dreest iv'ning niwer tires ye,
And the neet-watch ne'er is lang.

Is't prompted be domestic joyance,
An the hearthstaan ken'd saa weel ?

Or cos ye fear nae cold's annoyance,
Nor the girds o' clemming feel?

It's said ye're linked wi' ties mysterious

To the haam ye lang frequent,
An nowt can happen, gay er serious,

Bud ye're gifted weel to ken't.

I'd fain believe it ; mair betoken,

Iv'ning hours ye love the best,
When words of household love outspoken

Lull the jarring thowt to rest.

Ah ! lile ye mak o't sun's bright peeping

Through the oppen kitchen door,
Ye're ligging warm, an snugly sleeping

Underneath the kitchen floor.

Bud twileet comes and shadows flicker

On the snodly whitewesh'd wa' ;
An then ye wakken wick and wicker,

An yer merry playmates ca'.

Then ower is a' the household stirring,

Then yer chirping sangs are rife,
An chime wi't clock, and 't cat low purring,

An the voice o' bairn or wife.

Oh ! could these haamly sounds sae quiet

Break upon the wanderer's ear,
I" loneso e haunts, or scenes o' riot,

Seur they co' the starting tear.

They'd bring to mind i' tones o' sadness,

A' the lang-forgotten past,
The joys o' haam, and childhood's gladness,

An the time o' parting last.

As a further illustration of the dialect of the Craven distric t
we give a poetical sketch from the popular little volume
"Poems in the Craven Dialect by Tom Twisleton," the
third edition of which may be had from the publisher of
this Guide.

HUSBAND AND WIFE ;

OR, "WHARIVVER HEV YE BEEN?"

Wife.

WHARIVVER hev ye been to, ye maupin' owd tyke ?
For ye've grown sich a trail-tripe, I niwer saw 't like ;
An' here I've bin waitin', expectin' ye soon,
An' t' supper's bin ready an hour an' aboon.
But it's just like ye men I declare ye've naa thowt :
This tooast 's bin by t' fire till it's pined fair to nowt
When ye'll come yan can't tell, if ye're nobbut yance gaan ;
An' thi* tea 's bin i' t' pot whal it 's cowd as a staan.

133

There's naa gittin' a meal at reight time au through t' day,
For as true as I 's here, ye're allus away.
There's nae puttin' up wi't, ye're grown sich a ganger ;
But I've med up my mind 'at I'll stand it naa langer.

Husband.

Now, praytha wisht Betty don't mak sich a din !
Thou macks t' house like a Bedlam when a boddy comes in ;
It 's naabody's neck if yan be rayther laat,
I'm sewer it 's nowt that needset thee agaat.
I met wi' our Tommy a-gangin' past t' Ploo,
An' we caud in an' gat an odd dobbin or two ;
An' wi' talkin" ower t' markets, an' farmin' an' stock,
I gav it na thowt whal it struck ten o'clock ;
When I sed, "Is that ten? I mun gang reight away,
Or our owd woman '11 hev summat to say. "
Saa I tuck up my glass, an' I drunk what was in it,
An' I com out o' t' house i' less 'an a minute.
Thou's hed nowt to do nobbut sit at thy eease,
Saa let it drop, Betty ; now do, if ta pleease !

Wife.

Let it drop ? nay, nut I it wad mack ought fair mad,

Ye're grown just as rakish as ony young lad.

Ye may say what ye will, I declare it 's a shaam

That an owd man like ye cannot stop maar at haam j

Owt 't ye hev to do, ye mud do whal its leet,

An' not stop out trailin' whal this time o' t' neet.

Ye keep me up waitin' here times without end,

An' ye grow warse an' warse, 'stead a tryin' to mend ;

But if I sud hev ye mich ofter to tell,

I'll to bed, an' I'll leave ye to fend for yerseL

Husband.

Now, Betty, my lass, do praytha be quiet !
For thou drives sich a noise, an' thou macks sich a riot,
Fooaks comin' down t' street '11 hear iwrything plain,
An' they'll say 'at yon two 's agaat differin' again.
For thou talks sich a height, thou yowls, and thou squeeaks,
Yan mud hear thee a mile an' a hauf when ta speeaks.
When yan does come haam quiet, it wad be a capper
If thy tongue didn't gang just like a bell-clapper.
But next time I'se out, now just let nowt be said,
Git thy supper at t' time, an march off to bed ;
I can do varra weel be mesel, I don't doubt it ;
If I can't mack my supper, I'll e'en do without it.

Wife.

That's just what yan gits when yan's done all yan can ;
They're weel 'at 's not pestered at au wi' a man,
Yan may sit up an' bother, an' niver na eease,
An' when yan's done au yan niwer can pleease.
Ye think yan sud humble whatiwer ye say,
But I tell ye owd lad, at ye'll see different play.

134

But I'll off to bed, for its time I war thaar ;

If ye sit up an' grummle au neet, I don't caar.

Whatiwer ye do, ye think yan sud say nowt ;

But I tell ye, owd lad, 'at ye'll finnd yer mistack out !

Husband.

Ay ! praythee be gangin 1 ; git out o' me sect !

An' don't stand thaar preeachin* an' talkin' au neet !

Look as foul as ta likes, I don't caar a pin,

I'se just suit mysel what time I coo in.

What occasion hes thou to set up thy faace ?

Thee mind thy awn business, an' keep thy awn plaace !

If I hedn't gone out it wod just a bin t' saam,

For thou's niwer at eeas when I do stop at haam.

Thou's allus at grummle, thy tongue's niwer still !

I's fair stoad wi' t' sound, an' it seems thee reight ill.

But yan needn't expect mich plezzure o' life,

When yance yan gits teed to an ill-temper'd wife ;

An' to allus put up wi' yer queerness an' scorn,

It wad fair mack a chap wish 'at he'd niwer bin born.

Wife.

Nay, praya now drop it ! for I've heeard quite enough,

An' rayther too mich o 1 that senseless stuff.

I think 'at ye've said near enough about me,

An" I's sure I's not hauf as ill-natured as ye ;

For ye gang out, an' stop out, here hour efter hour,

An' then ye come haam saa surly and sour ;

If yan say hauf a word 'at ye don't want to hear,

Ye're as crabbed as a wasp, an' ye growl like a beear.

It wad seem ye as weel if ye left yer ill-nature'

Whar ye gat au yer drink, ye ill-temper'd cratur !

But thaar ye'll be pleasant wi' au 'at ye see,

An' come haam an' bring yer ill-natur' to me ;

If I say hauf a word i' my ahn self-defence,

Ye storm like a madman, an' talk wi' na sense.

But say what ye will, an' do au ye can,

I'll niwer be trod under foot wi' a man !

An' t' next time ye gang, au 'at I hev to say,

Is, "come haam better temper'd, or else bide away."

Ye needn't to think I's be ill off about ye ;

If ye niwer come back, I can put on without ye

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ought to possess a copy of ' Whitaker' and secure this
last opportunity of obtaining one before the inevitable
rise in price. As an investment alone the offer is worth
consideration. The prices are

4to cloth boards 3 3 o

4to bound half morocco, cloth sides 440

Do. do. in 2 vols.,

with pedigrees mounted on linen 550

HENRY GORE, Duke Street, SETTLE.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

FLYING HORSE SHOE HOTEL

CLAPHAM STATION.

r HIS HOTEL is most conveniently situated for parties
who wish to explore the most romantic part of York-
shire. The proprietor has the privilege of showing
Ingleboro' Cave which is one of the greatest curiosities
in the kingdom. The district abounds in attractions for the
Botanist, Geologist, and lover of the beauties of nature, and a
week or more may be most enjoyably spent in exploring those
in the immediate neighbourhood of this Hotel.

r B TROUT FISHING

In the Wenning, close at hand.

HORSES, CONVEYANCES, GUIDES, &c.
FAMILIES ACCOMMODATED BY THE WEEK OR MONTH.

Trains 45 minutes from Skipton and the same

from Lancaster,
Postal Address CLAPHAM, Lancaster.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

The only Establishment in the North where 100 high

class Instruments can be bought at prices commonly

charged for inferior made Instruments.

Morland Brothers,

COUNTY Music SALOON,

(Opposite the Town Hall),

LANCASTER,

Are the Agents in LANCASTER, SETTLE, and neighbour-
hood, for Broadwood, Collard, Erard, Hopkinson, Bnnsmead,
and every other RELIABLE Pianoforte Maker,

Chappell, Alexandre, Trayser, Cesarini, Mason & Hamlin,

Estey, Geo. Wood, and every RELIABLE Harmonium and

American Organ Maker.

50 PIANOFORTES

From 20 to 150 Guineas, and

4^0 ]3mrmrmmm$ nnir Jtmsrinm Srgatts

From 5 to 50 Guineas, for the Cottage, School, or Mansion.

Every Instrument personally selected in
London.

(Dltr Instruments taken in

| .ffeWFVfcffeW

MB fl 9 H

Visit all parts.

Repairs of every description skilfully executed.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

HIP* TVT ID *V /^ F\ ID T?
JCa iSI Jtx, X Ur U Jut, Jca

(LATE WlLDMANS)
KEEPS IN STOCK ALL VARIETIES OF

FISHING TACKLE

ARTIFICIAL FLIES 1/6 per dozen.
MINNOWS, i/- and 1/6 each.

Tackle for Live Minnows, Worm Tackle, Reel Lines
In great variety.

From 6d. upwards.

NEW INN HOTEL,

O T.J A P H A. M .

Tourists and Families travelling in Yorkshire will find very superior
accomodation, combined with moderate charges, at this Hotel. It has recently
been improved and enlarged. It is situated in the very heart of the finest
scenery in Yorkshire, the celebrated Ingleborough and Weathercote Caves,
Gaping-gill Falls, &c., all being within an easy walk of the Hotel. The
picturesque and romantic grounds of James Farrer, Esq., Ingleborough, to
which visitors to the Hotel have access.

There is excellent Trout Fishing close to the Hotel.

AND CONVEYANCES FOF^ WIRE.
f0r ic-ftc arties.

THOMAS SCOTT, PROPRIETOR.

Postal Address, CLAPHAM, LANCASTER.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

I N G L E T O N

COMMERCIAL & POSTING HOUSE.

This Hotel a new and stately erection is fitted up with every comfort and
convenience to meet the growing wants of commercial gentlemen and
visitors. It contains five spacious sitting rooms, fourteen bedrooms, coffee
room, smoke rooms, bath rooms, and every other accommodation, and has
lately been re-furnished and renovated.

EXCELLENT FISHING. Tickets may be had at the Hotel.

This old-established Hotel is situate in MAIN STREET, INGLETON, and

affords

EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION FOR TRAVELLERS, TOURISTS, ETC.

It has recently been greatly enlarged, several additional Sleeping and Sitting
Rooms having been added to it., and is now calculated to accommodate double
the number of visitors, &c., that it has heretofore done.

There is also a large and capacious BILLIARD ROOM attached.

It has for upwards of half a century had the reputation of being one of the
best conducted Commercial Hotels in the West Riding of Yorkshire.

POST HORSES, TRAPS, CARRIAGES, WAGONETTES &c.

The above Hotels are only about 100 yards apart and within three minutes walk
from the railway station.

Proprietor

T. REDMAYNE.

Ingleton is situated almost in the centre of a beautiful, romantic, and sa-
lubrious district, within one hour's walk from the summit of Ingleborough.

It affords excellent fishing, trout, &c. the rivers Doe and Greta flowing
through the village.

It is within easy distance of the mountains Whernside and Pennyghent ;
also the Natural Caves Weathercote, Yordas, Bruntscar, Douk Cave, Hurtle-
pot, Jingle-pot, and other Caves in the beautiful valley of Chapel-le-dale.

Thornton Force and the beautiful waterfalls and romantic scenery of
Beazley may be reached in half-an-hour's walk.

All lovers of natural curiosities may spend many weeks in visiting the
romantic scenery in this district.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

VICTORIA CAVE.

The results already achieved are before the public in the reports of the British
Association, in Professor Boyd-Dawkins work on "Cave-Hunting," in the
Geological portion of a new edition of " Whitaker's History of Craven, " by
Professor L. C. Miall, and in other works.

The great interest in the Victoria Cave lies in the long succession of events
represented by its contents, which are of the greatest importance to the historian,
the antiquary, and the geologist The bearing of some of the facts elicited is
still under discussion, but briefly the general results may be described as follows
The fine collections made here and deposited in the Museum of Giggleswick
School illustrate the occupation of the country and of the cave at intervals, by
the early English, Roman, and Celtic populations ; then further back by many
ages are found the remains of people who used the newer type of stone imple-
ments. In beds of earlier age we have evidence of the occupation of Yorkshire
by the reindeer and the grisly bear in times immediately succeeding and probably
preceding the development of a great ice-sheet in the north of England. Still
further back we are enabled to decipher the record of a remotely distant age
when man was living on the same ground with the great cave-bear, the hyaena,
elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, bison, and other animals. The cave is
unique in possessing data showing the existence of man in the North of England
before these cold conditions came on which covered the Northern Counties with
a thick mantle of ice.

THE LANCASTER GUARDIAN

ESTABLISHED 1837. PRICE id.

The Guardian is distinguished by the accuracy and fulness
of its LOCAL REPORTS, by its complete record of DISTRICT
INTELLIGENCE, and it seeks to keep its readers well
informed on the POLITICAL, GENERAL, and LITERARY
NEWS OF THE WEEK.

TO ADVERTISERS. Having- been established over 40
years, the Guardian has gained a very eminent position as a
Family Newspaper and an influential medium for Advertise-
ments Its circulation has now so largely increased in all
directions, and amongst all classes, that it has been recognised
as THE BEST ADVERTISER in North Lancashire, the
adjoining districts of Westmorland and the West Riding of
Yorkshire, and particularly in Lunesdale, Craven and Ribbles-
dale.

The Guardian is issued at an earlier hour on Friday, in order
to permit its despatch by the afternoon trains, but subsequent
editions will be issued when required by the arrival of Later
News and Local Reports.

Guardian Office, Church Street, Lancaster.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

IN EVERY VARIETY OF STYLE,

WITH DESPATCH.

Ruled to pattern, with printed headings, and bound to order.

HENRY GORE,

BOOKBINDER, MACHINE RULER, &c.,
DUKE STREET, SETTLE.

POEMS

IN THE

CRAVEN DIALECT

BY TOM TWISLETON.

THIRD EDITION; WITH AN ADDENDUM,

CONTAINING

feg i^etxrg IL

Paper covers, i/-; cloth, limp, 1/6.

HENRY GORE, BookseUer, &c., SETTLE.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

HOT-AIR, STOVES.

MESSRS. RIMINGTON & SON,
ENGINEERS & IRON-FOUNDERS,

CRAVEN IRON WORKS, SKIPTON, YORKSHIRE,

Beg most respectfully to inform the Clergy and the Public that they
are prepared to fix their much approved system of

HOT-AIR STOVES,

Which has been used in upwards of 1,000 Churches, Chapels, Schools, and
Private Residences, at a Moderate Cost

MOST UNDENIABLE REFERENCES CAN BE FURNISHED OF THOSE
WORKING, AND PERFECT SUCCESS GUARANTEED.

TERMS TO BE KNOWN ON APPLICATION.

TESTIMONIALS.

Lavington, August 2gth.

Sir, I have much pleasure in bearing my testimony to the effectual and economical manner
in which the stoves you have placed in different churches in my diocese have warmed ; and
also to add 'that they are free from the objection of unsightliness which is fatal to so many
modes of warming churches.
To Mr. W. Kimington. I am very truly yours, S. OXON.

Abingdon, Jan. i/th, 1879.

Messrs. Rimington supplied the heating apparatus to the large church of S. Helens, Abingdon,
when it was restored in the year 1873. The church presented great difficulties which Messrs.
Rimington successfully overcame. We have much pleasure in certifying that, in our opinion,
the method of wanning adopted in this case was very efficient and successful,

ALFRED POTT, Archdeacon, Vicar.
SLADE J. BAKER, Churchwarden.
This church contains about 270,000 cubic feet of air, and has many large windows.

I I

large and contains nve aisies. ror tne iwo winters i was in onice i aia noi nave a complaint 01
the church being cold. After receiving your instructions, I personally undertook the working of
the stoves, and my experience gave me th<" very best results. I found that by lighting up at five I
could get the church well warmed by ten with sufficient heat to last till night. I discovered that
the consumption of fuel was not very large when the fires were well alight, bright and clear,
a small quantity of coal added at intervals generated the largest amount of heat, taking care that
the plates did not get red hot They never smoked or gave off any offensive smell, and are at the
present time in good working order. I am fully satisfied of the efficiency of your apparatus if
proper attention is paid to matters of detail, such as looking to the pilot stove and keeping the
fires bright, and not adding large quantities at a time.

Yours truly, SLADE J. BAKER, late Churchwarden.
To Messrs. Rimington & Son, Craven Iron Works, Skipton, Yorkshire.

Cleat on Vicarage. Cleobury Mortimer, 23rd Jan., 1879.

Dear Sir, You ask me to say what I think of your heating apparatus which I have just had
fixed in my church. So far as I can judge from a short trial, (and I can see nothing to get out of
order], it is the cheapest and best means of warming a church I have ever seen, and I can only
wish it had been placed in the church from the very first, for it would have saved considerable
expense and immense inconvenience.

Yours very truly,

GEO. P. TURNER.
Mr. Wm. Rimington, Iron Foundry,
Skipton-in-Craven, Yorkshire.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

THE

And WENSLEYDALE STANDARD

Is the only eight-page Newspaper, and the only Conservative organ, having a
general circulation in Craven and the adjoining districts of the West Riding of
Yorkshire, East Lancashire, and the borders of Westmorland.

The Newspaper Press Directory, the special organ of the trade, says :
"The Herald circulates generally throughout the West Riding of Yorkshire
and East Lancashire, principally in Skipton and the Craven district Well-
arranged and full reports of all occurrences in the district are given with the
general intelligence of the week ; special attention being given to the markets,
and matters of interest to graziers, agriculturists, and landed proprietors. "

The Herald is published on Friday afternoon in time for the evening
post, and is published through its extensive district by nearly one hundred
agents, in the numerous towns and populous places within the confines of
Lancaster, Clitheroe, Burnley, Keighley, Otley, Harrogate, Ripon, Bedale,
Richmond, and Kendal.

Although the Herald has a very large and influential circulation, and
receives the Government and other Public and Official Notices, its scale of
charges is comparatively low, being as follows : Election and Public Notices,
6d. per line ; Railway Announcements, Contracts, Sales of Property by Auction
or Private, 4d. per line ; Entertainments and Trade Advertisements, is. 8d.
per inch (displayed), or if ordered for a quarter lod. per inch, for a half-year 8d.
and for a year 6d. per inch, each insertion.

CRICKET MATERIALS-

Has on Sale, during the Season, a very large and well-selected

Stock of

BATS, BALLS, & WICKETS,

GLOVES AND GAUNTLETS,
LEG GUARDS, BELTS, BAT COVERS,

SCORING BOOKS, AND EVERY CRICKET REQUISITE.

DARK'S AND DUKE'S BEST MATCH BALLS.

CLUBS SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

TO FARMERS.

ESTABLISHED 1846.

CONCENTRATED

Blood & Bone Manure Works,

STANDISH LOWER GROUND,

NEAR WIGAN, LANCASHIRE.

WILLIAM GIFFORD,

LONG PRESTON,

Has much pleasure in informing 1 Farmers, Agriculturists, and

the public that he has been appointed by Mr. ABRAHAM LLOYD,

the Proprietor of the above Works, his Agent for the sale of

BOILED and RAW GROUND BONES and special

ARTIFICIAL MANURES

For every crop, and hopes to receive a share of their patronage

These old and established Manures are well known and have
been extensively used in various parts of England for many
years and can therefore be recommended with confidence.

First-class references can be given amongst which the fol-
lowing gentlemen are selected (being residents of the Craven
district) who have used the manures with most satisfactory
results and who have kindly permitted reference being made
to them : Messrs. W. Todd, Kelber, Coniston ; J. Wilson,
Halton West; Wm. Parker, Halton West; J. & A. Bell,
Otterburn ; J. Winder, Gallaber, Hellifield ; T. Holgate,
Brooklands, Long- Preston : W. Batty, Little Stainforth, Settle ;
W. Knowles, Kirkby Malham ; H. Morphet, Wigglesworth.

W. G. has always in stock Smith's celebrated Devonshire Oils, Calf Drinks,
and Foot-rot Mixtures ; Theobald's Improved Driffield Oils, Cleansing and
Felon Drinks for Cattle, Powders for Ill-conditioned Horses, Worms, Influen-
za, &c. ; the well-known Old Jimmy and Whitworth Bottles for sprains and
bruises ; Castor Oil and Epsom Salts.

LICENSED DEALER IN PATENT MEDICINES.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

DUKE STREET, SETTLE.

HENRY GORE,

( Late
Has constantly in stock a large assortment of

^Pramr 38o0ks, anft Cljitrdj

IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL BINDINGS.

WESLEYAN HYMNS & SUPPLEMENT, CONGREGATIONAL HYMN

BOOKS, ETC.

Any not in stock procured on the shortest notice.

liyrcms Ancient and Modern, the new < revised editions,

With and without tunes, and bound with the Book of Common Prayer, in
plain and elegant bindings.

THE INGLEBOROUGH CAVE.

This Cave exceeds all others in this pait of the Kingdom in the variety of
Stalactites & Stalagmites, Subterranean Waterfalls, Arched Gothic Roofs, Giant's
Hall, &c. ; the length of the latest discoveries at present reaches icoo yards.

HENRY COAXES has the privilege of shewing the Cave. Parties visiting
the Inn will find every comfort and very moderate charges. A week or more
might be well spent in a locality so abounding in natural curiosities.

Families accommodated with Apartments in the above-mentioned Inn by
the week or month. Trout fishing in the Wenning that runs close by the Inn,
and in the neighbouring streams. The Landlord is privileged to give leave to
fish. Cars, Guides, Stabling, &c.

Trains 45 minutes from Skipton, and 45 from Lancaster.

All parties by rail wishing to visit the above Caves, must apply for Guides
and Conveyances, if needed, to the Proprietor, at the Inn, Clapham Station,
to save disappointment, as he is the only person authorised to shew them.

HENRY COATES,

Flying Horse Shoe Inn,

CLAPHAM STATION.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

BAILEY BROTHERS,

(LIMITED,)

MARKET PLACE, CLITHEROE,

Wholesale Grocers & Corn Millers,

IMPORTERS OF

|risfr rob American |)r0fri&i0ns,

Will submit samples and prices to buyers on application.

They are makers of one of the best and cheapest CATTLE
SPICES, one trial will prove its superiority : also B. Bros.

INDIAN STARCH FINISH

Is a great boon to the Laundry, prevents the iron sticking 1 ,
and leaves a beautiful ivory finish.

OF ALL THE

IN THE

DISTRICT OF CRAVEN

MAY BE HAD AT

HENRY GORE'S, (late Wildmans,) SETTLE.

___ Q

Cartes, 6d. ; Cabinets, i/-; mounted or unmounted.

JAMES MAUDSLEY,

Town Read Farm, LONG PRESTON,

ADVERTISEMENTS.

NOW READY, ( Revised edition), 184 pp. crown
8vo. Price 23. 6d., or post free for 32 stamps.

CHOOL SULORA,

FOR THE USE OF

ELEMENTARY

BOTANICAL CLASSES,

W. MARSHALL WATTS, D. Sc. (Lond.)

Physical Science Master in the Giggleswick Grammar School.

LONDON:

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. ; FREDERICK WARNE & CO.
SETTLE , HENRY GORE.

1879.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

PURIFIED

COUNTRY-MADE BEDDING.

JOHN TATHAM & SON

MAKERS OF THE

FIVE GUINEA

FEATHER BEDS.

CREAM LINEN TICK & WHITE FEATHERS
ALL THROUGH ALIKE.

Price List of Eighteen qualities of Feather Beds, Ac., on

application.

PURIFIED

HAIR MATTRESSES

GUARANTEED GENUINE
And free from all annoying impurities.
fcT Estimates furnished for Feather Beds, Pillows, Hair or
Wool Mattresses, Flock Beds, Straw Palliasses, Blankets,
bheetmgs, Ac., on application.

JOHN~TATHAM & SON

BEDDING WAREHOUSEMEN
SETTLE.

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY

Los Angeles
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below.

315