Skip to main content

Full text of "Guide to the romantic scenery of Loch-Lomond, Loch-Ketturin, the Trosachs, &c"

See other formats

This is a digital copy of a book that was preserved for generations on library shelves before it was carefully scanned by Google as part of a project 
to make the world's books discoverable online. 

It has survived long enough for the copyright to expire and the book to enter the public domain. A public domain book is one that was never subject 
to copyright or whose legal copyright term has expired. Whether a book is in the public domain may vary country to country. Public domain books 
are our gateways to the past, representing a wealth of history, culture and knowledge that's often difficult to discover. 

Marks, notations and other marginalia present in the original volume will appear in this file - a reminder of this book's long journey from the 
publisher to a library and finally to you. 

Usage guidelines 

Google is proud to partner with libraries to digitize public domain materials and make them widely accessible. Public domain books belong to the 
public and we are merely their custodians. Nevertheless, this work is expensive, so in order to keep providing this resource, we have taken steps to 
prevent abuse by commercial parties, including placing technical restrictions on automated querying. 

We also ask that you: 

+ Make non-commercial use of the files We designed Google Book Search for use by individuals, and we request that you use these files for 
personal, non-commercial purposes. 

+ Refrain from automated querying Do not send automated queries of any sort to Google's system: If you are conducting research on machine 
translation, optical character recognition or other areas where access to a large amount of text is helpful, please contact us. We encourage the 
use of public domain materials for these purposes and may be able to help. 

+ Maintain attribution The Google "watermark" you see on each file is essential for informing people about this project and helping them find 
additional materials through Google Book Search. Please do not remove it. 

+ Keep it legal Whatever your use, remember that you are responsible for ensuring that what you are doing is legal. Do not assume that just 
because we believe a book is in the public domain for users in the United States, that the work is also in the public domain for users in other 
countries. Whether a book is still in copyright varies from country to country, and we can't offer guidance on whether any specific use of 
any specific book is allowed. Please do not assume that a book's appearance in Google Book Search means it can be used in any manner 
anywhere in the world. Copyright infringement liability can be quite severe. 

About Google Book Search 

Google's mission is to organize the world's information and to make it universally accessible and useful. Google Book Search helps readers 
discover the world's books while helping authors and publishers reach new audiences. You can search through the full text of this book on the web 

at http : //books . google . com/| 

inj^jS'S' 31 

learbarli College Hilirarg 



(Class of 1851.) 




d by Google 








With a'Mi^ 


d by Google 


'' ' y 

d by Google 

d by Google 

2 ^ ^ 
% ^ I 1 ^ 




J^OCB-LGM&m), lOCH-KETreRm, 
TH^:TRiOfiSAi3fiS, &c. 





Cofhus Mineralogical Sf Botanical Obsetva^OMf 








d by Google 

d by Google 


The Scenery of Loch- Lomond and of the Troeachs, having of 
late hecome oljects of general attraction, and no work, in the 
form of a manual, affording a particular description of this highly 
interesting tract of country, having yet appeared; the Pnhlishers 
haye been induced to oifer to the attention of the Public this 
** Guide." It has been drawn up, from personal observations 
made last autumn, during an excursion undertaicen for the express 
purpose. In addition to an ample detail of the various features 
and beauties of the Scenery, illustrated by facts connected with 
Local or General History, occasional Mineralogical Observations, 
wiU be found interspersed through its pages; and to render it a 
useful companion to the Botanist, a complete List of the Plants 
and of their localities, found on the route, is given in an Appendix. 

d by Google 

d by Google 




There is certainly no Lake in Great Britain 
possessed of more attractive qualities to a stranger 
than that which it is the intention of this little work 
to describe. It is situated in a country, interesting 
not only from the natural beauty and grandeur of 
its scenery, but also from the many historical and 
romantic associations with which it is connected. 

Loch-Lomond is one of the largest and most 
beautiful of the British lakes. It may even bear 
a comparison with the most celebrated in Europe; 
for, although it possesses neither the inviting lux- 
uriance and delicious softness of character, which 
distinguish the Lakes of Geneva and Constance, 
nor the rich foliage and splendid architecture which 
decorate the banks of the Lakes Major, Como, and 
Albano, yet this Queen of our Scottish lakes may 
deservedly be said to outrival them in the wild 
magnificence and solemn grandeur of her scenery, 
and in the varied and endless exhibitions of nature 
which she presents. Like native genius, she attracts 
and secures attention, by the irresistible charms of 
her artless character. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


We shall commence our tour a litde above where 
the Leven joins the Clyde at Donbarton; referring^ 
the reader for a deflciiplim of the passage down 
the Clyde from Glasgow to Dunbarton, to the 
** Steam-Boat Companion, and Stranger's Guide 
to the Western Islands and HigUands of Soptjand,'' 
where every thing worthy of notice is minutely 

The objects which first arrest the traveller's 

attention, are, Dumbnck, ^' the hill of roes," with 

its bold front, and the handsome seat of Colonel 

Qeils at its base; ^d, beyon4 it, die bifi^pep^ 

hill pf Dui^bartoi^ or DunbrittoD^ '^ jthe hiU A^rt of 

tibe Britons." This last hiU^ or rather rock, jFW9g 

precipitously t4> the height of 560 feet, has its bais^ 

i^rashed on the south side by the ifrater^ of ib^ 

Clyde, and on the nprth, js coimectie4 tp 4^ m^ui 

la^d by a S9u4y plai^ It is ii^isected at the top 

byansmrowchaspi rjonningfrom east to "^est* On 

the Ipwer divisipn of li^ rock ^^0 the fsptmi^e to 

the Castle, the gover^ior'.s house, 9Pd apartP>^4i 

fgr the officers. f||9i^» also, are seve^ial pieo^s (^ 

prdnance^ ^tpnded for the defence of th^ fortre^ip 

together with those w}^iph> during the late Frapeh 

)far, w^T^ fised in thp battery at Qxe^^oek. Along 

|he range of the wpll are spvey^ watchn^owei^b in 

wHp^p ^t times, jpay be p^f cqved ^ solitary septia^ 

The ascent to the C^tle |s by a long flight oi 

8tep$. Oil |he si^iuiiit of the lower part of the roi^ 

^<3 situs^ted the barracks for soldiers, and two welhi; 

p^ th^t of the high^ div^ion, is ^ cpllectim of 

f toi^^S piled tpgether, qommonly caUe4 WaUap^'s 

seat A huge sword, which is said tp h^Y^ h^onged 

d by Google 

to tills renowned patrioti with several other pieeet 
of antique annour, are preserved ia the Castle. 

The {oOowing lines, by the late Mr. Finlay, a 
native of Glasgow, written after viewing Wallace's 
sword, are not inappropriate: 

Hiou sword of true valour! tS&ough dim be U17 hue^ 

And aU faded thy fliwliet of ligbt; 
Tet fltiU U> my muaiji|^, thy aight ahafl rentw 

The remembrance of Wallace the wight. 

lliough thou gleam pot around on the mountains of abi% 

Aa when sternly in battle he stood, 
When he fitrew*d the bold Southron in heape o'er the phuit 

And q«apMd>'4 thy diead ftdianoe in blood. 

Tluwgh thy hue, yet the heart of tme mould 

SbaU pause o'er tiiy Ibrm with delight; 
And tbe fear-stricken coward with trembling beboldy 

And a Patriot arise from the sight. 

Caledonia's bold sons, to thy presence when led. 

Shall with worship their fireedom repay. 
Till, worn with the tears Hoi thor rapture baa aM, 

Thy reliques be moulder'd away. 

To the mineralogist, this hill presents an immense 
isolated rock of basalt, sometimes slightly columnar, 
situated in a country abounding in red sandstone 
only, and separated by nearly a mile from the 
nearest basaltic rocks. Towards the west side, at 
the base, large blodcs lie scattered in every direction, 
two or three of which have formed a sort of cave, 
which serves as a convenient shelter to boatmen. 
There can be little doubt that the water encom- 
passed this rodk at one period, as the remains of 
naiine objects are found abundantiy beneath tiie 
sur&ce around it 

Hie rock itself is hard, fine-grained, and mag- 
netic; has a tendency to die prismatic form, and 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


ieonteins rose-coloured spar and charred wood, a 
substance rarely met with in basalt Iron-flint, 
Eeolites, and other concomitants of trap rocks, are 
found in the neighbouring hills, and probably also 
exist in this rock. 

Dunbarton Castle is mentioned in history, on 
several occasions. It is supposed to have been the 
Balclutha of Ossian, whose fall is thus beautifully 
described by Carthon, its owner: 

" I have seen the walls of Balclutha, but they 
are desolate. The fire had resounded in the halls, 
and the voice of the people is heard no more. The 
stream of Clutha was removed frofn its place by the * 
fall of the walls. The thistle shakes there its lonely 
head. The fox looks out from the windows, the 
rank grass of the wall waves round his head. 
Desolate is the dwelling of Moina. Silence is in 
the house of her fathers." 

This Castle was the principal residence of the 
family of Lennox till 1238, when it became a 
royal fortress. In 1481, it was defended by Sir 
Andrew Wood, Admiral of Scotland, against the 
English navy. It was from it, that Mary Queen 
of Scots, in her youth, sailed for France, when 
her council wished to avoid the importunities of 
Henry VIII. of England. It was the last fortress 
that stood out for her, during the wars which pre- 
ceded the establishment of the reformed religion 
in this country. It was deemed impregnable, till 
taken by surprise by Captain Crawford of Jordan- 
hill, who, with a few soldiers, ascended the rock 
at a pliu;e almost perpendicular. It was, during the 
late war, occasionally employed as a state prison. 

d by Google 

Ocnenil SaDieoii^ a French officer^ was detained 
licre previous to the first abdication oi Bonaparte» 
It is stipulated in the Articles of the Union between 
Sootland and England, that this Castle, with those 
of Stirling, Blackneis, and Edinburgh, shall not he 
cfamantled, as it is considered to be the key of the 
Clyde and of the Western Hi^lands. 

The prospect from the top of the tocIl is yery 
e]tte]i8tye, and includes almost every variety of 
Scenery. The sontb view embraces the Clyde^ 
whose sur&ce is generally enlivened with steann 
bdato and coasters gliding aloi^ in every direction. 
Beyond the Clyde, are seen ike hills, and a oon-> 
siderable extent of the interesting county mS Ren- 
6vw« To tie west, Port-Glaa^w, Greenodc, the 
Argyleahire hills, and the mountainous ridges of 
Annan, exhibit an agreeably varied prospect; to 
dbe east, the Clyde is seen gradually diminJHhing 
in breadth, and winding through a highly cultivated 
comtry, its banks being richly embellished by gen- 
tlemen's seats, and peaceful villages. The extensive 
woods of Erskine and Bishopton, the property eS 
Lord Blantyre, are likewise seen in this directium. 
On turning to the north, the vale in which Lodi- 
Lomond is situated, opens to the view, widi its 
xanges of lefty mountains, among whidi Ben-liO- 
BMnd and Ben-Yoirlich are the most cmispieaous. 
But perhaps 1^ nearest is also the most pkasaal 
part 4ti the prospect, comprehending the andent 
t^wn of Dunbarton, with tibe short but sweet wind-> 
ing course of the Leven, and the numerous gentle- 
men's seats and public works with which its banks 
are stedded; altogether presenting an aasemblaga 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


of objects^ well calculated to awaken in the con- 
templatiye breast, the mingled feelings of pleasure 
and surprise. 

Proceeding up the river to Dunbarton, several 
neat villas present themselves. On the right, is 
Castle-Green, Denny; Knoxland, Rev. Mr. Jefl^ 
rey; Silvertonhill, ****; and farther, on the hill^ 
Ciarshake; on the left, is Levengrove, Dixon. On 
Mr. Dixon's property, opposite the Quay, are the 
remains of the Old Church of Cardross, encircled 
by trees, and at present used by that family as a 
burjring-place. Farther on the right, is a dry dock; 
and behind it, is the Church, an interesting object 
when viewed from tlie river. Here a large bridge 
has been erected across the Leven, beyond which 
are seen the three cones of the Glass-work. 

The traveller now leaves the steam-boat, and, 
before proceeding, is allowed time to breakfast, or 
to visit the town. 

Dunbarton is a place of some antiquity, having 
been £ivoured with a charter six hundred years ago. 
It is probably indebted for its origin, to its proxi- 
mity to the Castle. It consists principally of one 
long street; and contains about 500 inhabitants. 
Upwards of 2000 tons of shipping belong to the 
port Besides the large glass-work, celebrated for 
the manufacture of window-glass, there are also 
here several tan-works. Dunbarton boasts of two 
good inns, and is the chief thorough&re to the 
Western Highlands. Several great &irs for black 
cattle, are held here during the year. 

For the information of the traveller, who may 
wi^h to know the various routes by land from this 

d by Google 


place, it may be proper to state, that to the east 
there is an excellent road running nearly parallel 
with the Clyde to Glasgow, distant 14^ miles. 
To the north, by the east side of the Leven, and 
south side of Loch-Lomond, is a good road to 
Drymen, distant 12 miles; being the direct road 
to Stirling, distant 32 miles. From Drymen, is a 
road to Rowardennan at the foot of Ben-Lomond, 
and another to Loch-Catherine, the Trosachs, 
Aberfoyle, &c. but the best route to these places, 
is that up Loch-Lomond, which we are about to 
point out. To the west is a road by Luss, Tarbet, 
&c. to Inverary, distant 45^ miles; and on the 
left, is another to'Helensburgh, distant 7| miles; 
which is continued to Inverary by Arroquhar, 
distant 42 miles. The Tarbet road continues 
northward to Tyndrum and Fort-William, distant 
88 miles, leading to every town and island on the 
west coast But to all of these places, much easier 
access may be obtained by water. For farther par- 
ticulars on this subject, the traveller may consult 
the " Steam-Boat Companion," or " Duncan's Iti- 
nerary of Scotland." 

At Dunbarton the traveller exchanges the steam- 
boat for a coach, which daily plies with the steam- 
boat passengers to Balloch Ferry, about 5 miles 

On leaving the town, the road crosses the Leven 
(Le Avon, the soft river) by a handsome stone 
bridge, from which there is a beautiful view both 
up and down the river. On the left, pass Clyde 
Bank, M^Kenzie; and Leven Grove, Dixon. At 
itie toll-bar, the road turning to. the right must be 

d by Google 


taken; that on tlie lefi^ leads to Helensbni^hy 
Anroqahar, and Inyemry. On tbbe left, may be 
seen in-sucoeaaion beds of whin, below wUeh aro 
white and then red sandstone, serer^l quarries of 
which are wrought. Farther on to the right, on 
the other side of the Leven, at the foot of a hill^ 
is seen Levenside House, Campbell of Stonefleld, 
oeeupied by Murdoch; and nearer the road, Dal* 
quhum turkey-red dye-work, M^IntosL On the 
same side, farther on, is Dalquhum House, tlie 
Mrdi-place of the celebrated TdMas Smollett, and 
near whidi he penned his beautiful Ode to Leven 

Qd LeTen's biui]n, while inn io XQV^ 
And tune the rural pipe to lov^ 
I enried not the happiest twtkk 
*Ih$k Mrer trod tiif Accadifui phia. 
INiie «kWAQi ! im whose truspsrent wav^ 
My youthful limbs I wont to lave, &c. 

Near this place, on tbe left, staAds a Tuscan 
obeUsk, erected to his memory, sihamefully muti- 
lated, and hastening to decay. The ground is 
overgrown with weeds, the tablet broken, and ihe 
inscription defaced.* The foUowii^ is a transla- 
tion of the original Latin inscription, from ;Dr. 
Anderson's Life of Smollett; 

Stay, Traveller! 

If elegance of taste and wit, 

If fertility of genius, 

iUd %xi unrivalkd tfkaafk 

* The shimieful -and nupoua oondition 'in which this memento q/ijom 
treat novdist is permitted to renudn, cannot be sufficiently depvteiM. 
Slie genius.of Tolnas Smollett irequiree, doubtlen, no marhle to h^ra 
its nunc, and will outlive the materials which man has raised tosiCs 
honour; but yet docs it .not appear stnoige;, that the nwr cdatiiM^f {• 
man, over whose simple tomb m Italy so many exiles sigh, s^i^ mai^^ 
fiM so utter a neglect^fer his mpniiment in SaoDhaA? 

d by Google 


In 4fyw*i"g the duuraefcen of mankind, 

Haye ever attracted thy admiration^ 

Pause awhile 

On the memory of Tobias SMOLunr, M. D. 

One more than commonly endowed with 

Those virtues, which, in a Man and a Citizen, 

Yon would praise or imitate; 


Having secured the applause of posterity. 

By a variety of literary abilities. 

And a peculiar felicity of composition. 

Was, by a rapid and crnd distemper, 

Snatched from this worid, in the LL year of his age. 

He lies interred near Leghorn in Italy. 

'In testimony of his many and great virtues, 

This empty Monument, 

The only pledge, alas! of his a£Eection, 

is erected 

On the banks of the Leven, 

The scene of his birth and of his latest poema^ 

By James Smollett of Bonhill, 

His Cousin; 

Wlio woohl rather have expected this last 

^ Tribute from him. 

Oo, and remember 

This honour was not given alone to the 

Memory of the deceased, 

But for the encouragement of others. 

Deserve like him, and be like him 


Proceeding onwards, the tourist passes through 
the village of Renton. Beyond it^ on the right, is 
Cordale House, Stirling; and, on the left, Millbum 
pyroligneous add and tar-works. Bonhill House 
is seen, farther on to the right; and beyond it, x>ii 
the opposite side of the river, Bonhill Church and 
Villi^e, forming an interesting groupe, as seen 
from the road, especially towards evening, when 
lighted up by the beams of the western sun. Far- 
ther on, is the small village of Alexandria, where 
are several bleachfields and printfields; viz. Dal- 


Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


marroch; Levenfield, Todd; I^evenfaaiik, Arlliiir; 
&c. Close to it, on the left, is Broomley, Misses 
Alston; an^ beyond it, TiUichewen Castle, Hor- 
rocks. This Castle is built in the gothic style, in 
a picturesque situation, tastefully surrounded by- 
trees, and forms a most delightful residence. On the 
opposite bank of the river, is Levenbank, Arthur; 
and a little forward, on the left, is Stuckroger or 
Woodbank, Miss Scott Near the fourth mile-stone 
from Dunbarton, a road strikes off on the right, to 
the Ferry of Balloch, where a light boat is ready to 
convey passenger^ to the steam-boat, which is to 
be seen riding at anchor at the head of the river. 
On the other side of the L^yen stands Balloch 
Castle, the residence of G. Stott; and close to the 
river, is the neat Ferry-House of Balloch. 

Loch-Lomond is the largest and most picturesque 
fresh-water lake in Great Britain. It is 30 miles 
long, and from 1 to 9 miles broad. In depth, it 
varies from 20 to ISO fathoms. Its surface is 22 
feet higher than that of the Clyde. This li^t cir- 
cumstance has given rise to the absurd proposal, of 
deepening the bed of the Leven, and by that means, 
of draining off th^ waters pf the Loch, by which a 
few acres of grouj^ d might be gained, at the expanse 
of much of the, romantic scenery around it 

The water of the Lf^ch is at present higher, than 
it has been^ at, some former period, the ruins of 
houses being seen below its surface. After heiiiry 
rains, it lia3 been known to ^ rise about 6 feet. The 
water which flows from it by the Leven, is remark- 
ably pure, and w^U adapted for bleaching* This is 
accounted for, by supposing that the water which 

d by Google 


nm^ down froth the hills^ owing to the extent of 
the Loch, has ample time to settle, and deposite its 
e^thj partides, before it issues from the opening 
at Balloch; 

Owing to iis depth, the Lake appears in some 
places of a dark pitchy coloor^ especially towards 
its upper extremity, where it is deepest^ and where 
it is at the same time orershadowed by lofty moun- 
tains^ whose tops are not unfrequentiy enveloped in 
▼apour and cloods; Numerous streams flow into it; 
such as, the Fruin, the Aldegallen^ the Luss, the 
Douglass, the Falloch, the ArMll, and Ihe Endrick. 
The last is the largest stream, and is not undeserv- 
ing of the name of river; 

The property on the left bank of the Lake be- 
longs principally to Smollett^ Mrs. Rowet, Bu- 
ohim»ftj and Sir James Colqiihoun; that on the 
nghty almost entirely to the Duke of Montrose. 
About two-thirds of the Loch, and most of the 
islands^ ate in the county of Dunbarton; the rest^ 
with the right bank, are iiteluded in the county of 
Stirling. The steam-boat keeps almost exactly in 
the line of division between the two counties. 

Every one must have heard tiiat Loch^Lomond, 
aooording to pq>ular report, is remarkable for tiiree 
things, viz. ^^Fish without fins, waves without 
wind, and a floating island." The ^^ fish without 
fins" is the pollack, vulgarly known by tiie appella* 
tion of a powaUf in some respects resembling a 
herring* Formerly these fish were found only in 
this Lodi, but they are now found abunduitiy 
in Xioch-Eck in Argyleshire, and in other lochs 
hi this 4»ttBtry. The pollack is dry add unpalat- 

d by Google 


able as an artide of food. The ^'waires wi&oat 
wind/' are occasioned by the currents of air which 
come down the glens, causing an agitation in the 
water, which is communicated to those parts wheice 
no wind is felt at the time. The '^ floating island" 
is, aooording to some, a sand bank which is occa- 
rionally covered with water; according to others, 
it is an island situated near the west end of the 
Loch, which, although it is at present as immoye-^ 
able as the rest, may have originally consisted of a 
piece of floating moss. 

On reaching the deck of the steam-boat, the 
stranger may probably be disappointed widi the 
first glimpse of Loch-Lomond. It is certainly the 
tamesipait of the lake; and although several sjdendid 
domains give interest to the foreground, the view, 
in the eyes of the real worshipper of the picturesque, 
must be deemed nothing more than soft and pretty. 
As the steam-boat proceeds, Cameron House, Smol- 
lett, is observed; and about 2 miles ferther on to 
the north, is Arden, Buchanan. On the right, 
opposite Cameron House, is Butruich or Butturich 
Castle, at one time the seat of the ancient £Eunily 
of Lennox, Earls of Levenax, from whom, by a 
female, are descended many of the nobility of Scot- 
land; the Dukes of Richmond and Grafton, &c. in 
England; the Dukes of Berwick, Fitzjames, Bruns- 
wick, &c. on the Continent; and the Royal Families 
of Great Britain and Sardinia. 

Proceeding forward, the Loch gradually expands; 
but the size of four islands, ruiming in a line frimi 
east to west, prevents its breadth from being seen 
for some time. The scenery, on approaching Inch 

d by Google 


Murrin (the largest island in the Lake, occupied as 
a deer-park by the Duke of Montrose), increases 
in beauty every minute; and when the nordiem 
extremity of this ducal deer-park is reached, where 
two other small islands, called Inch Grange and 
Inch Torr, covered with wood, and the wider ex* 
tended valley of the Endrick, break upon the view, 
there are few but wiU allow that the scene is truly 
* magnificent In the foreground, on the mainland, 
the eye first catches the minarets of Ross Priory, 
from beneath whose hospitable roof the ** Great 
Unknown" has so often hied, to make perambula- 
tions through a country which his genius has made 
classic. Beyond, it meets with the singularly shaped 
hill of Duncruin, which er^t was the seat of aged 
wizard; and traversing over the splendid Park of 
Buchanan, finds the blue hills of Stirlingshire clos- 
ing in the landscape. At the upper end of this 
valley a glimpse is obtained of an obelisk, raised to 
a name which is dear to every scholar;* while the 
curious eye will naturally seek the spot where the 
inventor of the Logarithms so long sojourned, while 
busied in those abstruse calculations which have 
proved of such incalculable value to the mathema- 
tician in Ids scientific researches.! The land which 
has been imprinted by the footstep of genius, or by 
the beings of its creation, can never fidl to produce 
a deep and enthusiastic interest The anxious eye 
searches for the haunts of those whom history has 

* llieeddbntodCjteorgeBiidiiiiiDyWliowuboramtlieB^^ 
of JKiQesriL 

f Lord Nmier of Merchitton, lived for maiiT yean in an old maoMon 
oD'tlie banln of the Sifedriek. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


diroaieieclf Bod &e fancy feels dacmed to reTel 
wil^ tbe opeatures of another's imagiiialioii. Jt is 
tibe genius &l Rousseaii, Voltairey Gibbon, De StaeJ, 
and Byron, that gires aack a magic to ihe scenery 
<^ liake-Leman; andtheTiosacli$,Loch-Afd,«xid 
XiOcbrlfOmond, would be bereft of balf their chftrms 
were they not associated with the nagi^ ereadoiiB 
of Sir W.Scott 

On the west end of Inch Murrkarethe Tmnsof 

a castle, which fbranerily belonged to Ihe fiunily of 

Lfennox, and a neat modem cottage, for the aceom- 

modation of parties of pkasnre from the doieal lesi- 

deneeinthene^hboorhood. Xceayingthisfoeantifiil 

islet, obsen^e Inch . Aber, 9t the Bioulh of the End- 

rick, and -Clar Inch, wh^aee was taken Ihe war-cry 

of the poweiful dan of Budmnan, ^ Clar Lac^, 

Clar Inch." Some wciters, however, suppose it io 

he oonneeted with .an e^ltnt of the head of the 

fiBonily, Sir A. Buchanan, who, tn 14r81, is said to 

have IdUed a Duke lef OJaresi^e, ^t the baMk of 

Beuge in Anjou: although that aotiim is generaUy^ 

said to have been accomplished, not by a Bttdianan, 

but by one of the andent Eiarls «f Bochan. Hit- 

ferentt views of Buchanan House, die seat of the 

JDuke of Mwtrose, are to be had* in passing jdong 

to the niight ; and the saanaions of several i>rQpiietoiB 

aive seen in tiie.saiae du^ectioii, faataA a conanieraUe 

distance* The steam4>Qat Ihen jlieers to the teft, 

haviiigon thedg^tthe jurkatodioanae of Budbanan, 

and on the left the large wooded island xxf Inch 

CaiUea^h^ formerly the btttrying-phiae of Ihe Clan 

Macgregor, and where there was once a pailsh 

church. By many this isbnd has been called the 

d by Google 


Corpse Lsland, firom its singular resemblance, when 
seen from the valley of Endrick, to humanity, 

<< Ere Aefint day of dettk is fled." 

It has been lately, in some measure, denuded of its 
▼erdant «ftrotf^ of foliage by the commands of some 
enemy to liie picturesque; but a few years may 
probably restore it to its wonted ridmess. 

Oppomte the north-east comer of Inch Cailleach, 
the steam-boat stops to land passengers at Bual- 
maha, one of the nanow passes into the Highlands; 
afiber whieh, taking a western direction, it passes, 
in snocession, Inch Fad, which is inhabited — Inch 
Moan, I of a mile long — ^Inch Cruin, used for con- 
fining insane people — and on the lefit, Inch Cardach, 
Bnek Inch, and two other small islands. To the 
right^ begins to rise the stupendous mountain of 
Ben-Lomond, atterging, as it were, from the placid 
surfiice of the Lake, and towering in ihe clouds to 
the height <rf 8962 feet. Hie islands of the lake, 
(of which there are more than thirty) now give a 
delightful Tariety to its extensive bounduy, which 
in length is 90 miles, and at its broadest part more 
than 8 miles. The greater number of these islands 
are adorned wMi wood; and from their dirensity of 
mze and form, afford an endless succession of lovely 
^turesque objectBL On the left, is Inch Conadban, 
near which is the floating Island; on die right, is 
Inch Lonag, where are several thousand great yew 
trees, of which land ol wood there is not perhaps 
another. plantation in Europe. It is probable that 
ihese were planted, when ardiery formed a part of 
aflitery action. Pass cm the left. Inch Tavannocfa, 
the property of Sir J* Colqahoun. On the maaiir 

d by Google 


land, to the left, is Ross Lodge, Colquhoim; and 
Rossdoe, Sir J. Colquhoim, Bart 

Like some other Highland lakes, the smrface of 
Loch-Lomond often displays the blue belt^ which is 
always the precnrsor of a storm. This singular and 
curious appearance is occasioned by the unequal 
agitation of the atmosphere in the vicinity of lofty 
mountains, whidi produces a corresponding ine-' 
quality on the surface of the water, some parts 
being gently ruffled by the air, while others remain 
quiescent, and gives the appearance of long stripes 
or belts, very equably defined. During the dr^l- 
ful earthquake at Lisbon in 1755, the surface of 
this Lake was greatly agitated; the water rose sud- 
denly &r above its ordinary level, and again quickly 
retiring, sunk greatly below the usual height; and 
this unnatural motion continued for a considerable 
time. A boat on that occasion was carried 40 yards 
beyond the ordinary limits of the water's edge. 

The steam-boat now enters the lovely bay of 
Luss, with its rude cottages, simple church, plain 
manse, and flaunting inn. Luss, and its neighbour- 
hood, has been considered by artists to be the most 
beautiful point of Loch-Lomond; but it is the view 
of the Lake from the shore, that is meant — ^not the 
view of Luss from the steam-boat, which, with all 
its beauties, is devoid of many of the characteristics 
for forming a picture. It was in this little village 
that the translator of the Gaelic Bible, the Rev. Dr. 
Stewart, lived and officiated; and it was from this 
spot that that scientific gentleman proceeded with 
so many enthusiastic botanists to ramble among the 
mountains. Behind the idllage, near the top of the 

d by Google 


liilly may be seen the slate quarries of Gunstradden, 
fiom which above 800,000 slates are tamed out 
annually. At the foot of the hill, is Camstradden 
House, Colquhoun. 

On leaving Luss, and proceeding to the north, 
the Lake begins gradually to diminish, so that its 
finely wooded banks are more distinctly seen. 
About 3 miles beyond Luss, is the ferry from In- 
veruglas on the west, to Rowardennan on the east 
side of the Loch. 

Should the enterprising stranger incline to ascend 
the top of Ben-Lomond, Rowardennan is the most 
eligible place for him to land. Here is a neat com- 
fortable inn, where guides and every requisite fwr 
the journey can be procured. The distance from 
the inn to the summit of the mountain -is computed 
at 6 miles; but it is probably more, and generally 
occupies above 3 hours. The first part of the path 
will appear the most disagreeable, as it is principally 
over rock and heath. Some green ridges are how- 
ever met with, and frequently great portions of wet 
moss. Towards the summit, the track is more dif- 
ficult and &tiguing, increasing in steepness, and 
passing over a very rugged or shelving sur&ce; 
but when the ascent is gained, the toil is mnply 
repaid by the sublime and wonderful prospect whidi 
is had in every direction. The body of the moun- 
tain appears to be made up of several tremendous 
ridges of rock, rising one above another, but di- 
minishing in a conical form towards the top. Below, 
the Lake.s^pears wonderfully lessened in size, and 
the islands look like mere spots upon its surface. 
Looking eastward, is seen the river Forth, with its 

d by Google 

nuD^ldimdings and iiuiiteh)iis towns. TheCa^tlls 
of Stilling seems almbst beneath the motmtai&y 
while that of Edinburgh, fiuHier retnbved, is hdtdly 
visible to the eye. To the souths the entire stretch 
of Lanarkshire^ with the centrical hiU of Tmto, knd 
the more remote mountains of the Lowthers aikd 
Coult^fidl^ and, &r in the distance^ the Isle of 
Man may be discovered, if the atmosphere be dear. 
Turnitig to the south^kwestj the counties of Renfrew 
and Ayr; the Craig of Ailsa, the islands of Bate, 
Anan, And Jura; the coast of Ireland^ the Moll of 
Cantyte, and the Atlantic Ocean^ a^ in view. 
Looking to the ndrth, a frightful preciffice df the 
mountain is seen, 2000 feet deep; while stretching 
« ftr as the eye Can l^eadb, is seen the tremendous 
assemblage of ruggedness that constitutes the Gramt- 
l^an chain. Nature in her wildest and most anHful 
{<nm is here to be contemplated Mountains rise 
upon mountains in all the dignity of irregularity, 
till the eye is lost in the vastness and astonishing 
variety of the prospect Valleys, lakes, and rivers, 
diversify the &ce of the country to a great extent; 
from this all the principal mountains of Scotland, 
and no less than nineteen lakes, are visible. In 
short, there is here every thing that is calculated 
to fiU man with a deep sense of Ids own utter in- 
significance; and to raise in his mind an unaffected 
love, mingied witii reverexitial awe, towards tiie 
great Architect of Nature. The scene may defy 
<< the pencil and tiie pen," but still it is nobly poe* 
tical, as it excites the sensation of pure sublimity. 
The foreground on the north is a hideous ^mi- 
cmter, precipitous, and perhaps 2000 feet to the 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 

ba4^ The ejfoct of a oknid a furkiiig beneath the 
feet, and aiming to sever the visitant from ^^IJie 
work-d^y world," » inexpressibly grand. The 
xainbcty^, or the lightnbg with the attendant peal, 
sometimes heighten the awful pomp of the scene, 
and peculiarly dispose the miad to shake off ter* 
restrial impi'e^sionsA and ^^ to ascend from Nature 
up to Native's God!" 

The great body of Ben-Lomond, like that of all 
primitive mountains, is formed of granite and micar* 
ceous sdnstuB, with large n^asses of quartz imbedded 
in it Some specimens of red jasper aire found on 
the borders of the Lake, whidi have been washed 
from the summit, and been polished by attrition. 
This momtain fumjshes much entertsiament to 
the botanist, many rare plants being found u^on it 
Ben-Lomond, and the lands along the whole eastexn 
shore of the Loch, were formerly the property of 
Rob Roy Mac^regor, from whom they were legally . 
obtained, by the Marquis of M<»itrose.* 

Leaving Rowardennan, the Loeh gradually ccm- 
tracts in«breadth, so, that at Rob Roy's Rock it is 
hardly half a mile across. This rock, about a mile 
above Rowardennan, rises abruptly from the water; 
thi^. front and sides are nearly perpendicular, and 
about 30 feet high; the top is flat, and projects 
from another steep rock which is considerably 
higher. Upon this flat portion, it is said» that Rob 
Roy was in the custom of letting down, by a rope 
round their waist, those who refused to oomj^y 

* See ** MacIeaj*B Historical Memoirs of Rob Aoy, and the Clan 
MacgregOTy" pubbahed in 1818^ and oontaiaing many cnrioni and in* 
terarnng anecdotes of predatory warfMre^ betwixt that outUw and the 
BSait|ii]s of M onftrofe* 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


with Us demands. If, after being drawn up, they 
still continued obstinate, they were let down a se- 
cond time, with the addition of a gentle hint that 
if they continued obstinate when Bg^in drawn up, 
they should then be suspended by the nedk. He 
was under no apprehensions that they would elude 
his grasp, as they could only escape by leaping into 
the Loch. Three miles farther, is Stuckgoune, or 
New Oak Cottage, M^Murrich; and ^ mile farther, 
the picturesque inn of Tarbet 

Here the lofty mountains of Ben-Lomond, Ben- 
Duchray, Ben-Voirlich, and particularly the sin- 
gularly shaped summit of Ben -Arthur, or the 
Cobler, are seen in perfection, forming a combi- 
nation of mountain scenery, which renders Tarbet, 
in the estimation of strangers, the most interesting 
place on the Lake. The mountains, in fact, here 
assume an entire new feature; their outlines are 
more distinct, and greater variety is given to their 
character. Sublimity sits enthroned upon every 
doud-capt summit on which the eye can rest, and 
never fails to surprise and delight the astonished 
spectator. From Tarbet is a road to Loch-Long, 
1^ mile (to and from which a steam-boat sails from 
Glasgow daily), and to Inverary^ 24 miles; and 
another to Tyndrum, 24 miles; and to Fort- Wil- 
liam, 68 miles. 

The steam-boat on leaving Tarbet, i^ain crosses 
the Loch, which is here scarcely a mile broad; and 
skirting the foot of Ben-Lomond, stops at the Mill 
of Inversnaid, with its tumbling cascade, formed 
by the water of Arkill, a spot where Wordsworth 
penned one of his most beautiful poems: — 

d by Google 


Sweet Highland Girl! a yery t 
Of beauty is thy earthly dower: 
Yes, I am loth, nor pleasM at heart, 
O Mountain Maid ! from thee to part. 
But 1, methinks, till I grow old. 
As fair a maid shall ne'er behold, 
As I do now—the cabin small. 
The lake— the bay— the waterfall— 
And thee!— the spirit of them all. 

At a short distance up the country is Inversnaid 
Fort,* built in 1713, to repress the daring inroads 
of Rob Roy, who was proprietor of this place. It 
was once set on fire by Rob Roy, and afterwards 
taken by his nephew. 

It is only a very short distance from Inversnaid 
to Rob Roy's Cave; but the ever-changing forms 
and grouping of the mountain scenery, must delight 

* If the stranger wishes to visit the Perthshire Lakes, he will leave 
the steam-boat at Inversnaid Mill, on its return, and cross the country 
to Inversnaid Fort, where is a road on the one band to Loch-Ketturin, 
and on the other to Lochard, Aberfoyle, &c From each of these 
l^aces are good roads to Perth, Stirling, Edinburgh, and Glasgow. 
Firom Inversnaid Mill to Loch-Ketturin, where boats are always to be 
fomd to carry travellen to the Troaachs, is only a distance of five 
miles; and persons who are unable, or unwilling to walk, can be ac- 
oommodated with excellent highland ponies^ whose paces are well suited 
to the roughness of the path. A stranger, in fac^ coming up Loch- 
Ketturin, and across this road to Loch-Lomond, will see this part of the 
Highlands to the greatest advantage. We shall not soon forget the 
picturesque appearance of a group of strangers with whom we once 
accidentally met on this route. The cavalcade was threading the narrow 
pass which leads to a rustic bridge below the old and ruinous garrison 
of Inversnaid, which, though now tenantless, of yore rang with the din 
of arms and revehy. The gay attire of the female equestrians con- 
trasted well with the unh<Aby-uke eamiture of their steeds— their gay 
gaUants, shouldering fishing-rods and fowling-pieces, seemed their guard 
of honour— -the Highland attendants, in their national costume, acted as 
men at arms>— whifo a few kilted urchins, carrying bags and packages, 
and attended bv at least half-a-doaen of dieep-dogs, made out a group, 
which, coupled with the wild and romantic scenery around, recalled 
the less frequent, but more j»ageant expeditions of former ages, when 
Scotland had her feudal chiefe and feudal dependants. P^haps the 
imagination would not have then been so muf^ stretched to have nncied 
die whole scene a living counter-part of a nicture by Wouvermans. 
Tlw white horse was at kast there; and excellent artist though he waa^ 
we are certain he never painted a loyelier face, nor a fairer form, than the 
beisg who that day played the Diana Vernon of the party. 


Digitized by VjOOQ IC 

every one who has ever taken pleasure in gazing 
upon the productions of a Salvator Rosa, or on 
those of our own English Turner. There is such . 
a bold and dedded outline — such strong lights — 
such deep broad shadows — and, on the east shore 
especially, such ** fragments of an earlier world,'' 
for a foreground, that one can scarcely imagine 
that any thing mnch more picturesque ever met the 
eye of the b^idit painter, even amid the fiistnesses 
of Calabria. 

Rob Roy's Cave, the hiding-place of the Mac- 
g^gor, is formed by detached portions of micaceous 
schistus, which have fallen from the rocks above, 
and have formed a cavity with several windings in 
it It is completely concealed, but presents no re- 
markable curiosity about it, being nothing more 
than a dreary cavern, in which very pressing neces- 
sity alone could induce a human being to take up 
his residence. It is celebrated as being the place 
of shelter of Robert Bruce, after his discomfiture at 
StrathfiUan by M^Dougall of Lorn. He is said to 
have used it also before the battle of Bannockbum, 
to avoid the English spies. It afterwards served as 
a retreat to Rob Roy, whose name it bears. 

Rob Roy was a gentleman by birth, being the 
second son of Colonel Macgregor of Glengyle, 
who left him, as his patrimony, Inversnaid, from 
which he took his title. Havuig forfeited his pro- 
perty to the Duke of Montrose, he was forcibly, 
diough legally dispossessed of it; on which occap- 
sion, his wife also experienced harsh treatment 
from the Duke's factor. In her husband's absence, 
)9he composed the beautiful and phllietic tune called 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


^^ Hob Roy's lament," in order to exdte his resent- 
ment on his return. He then commenced that pre* 
datory life, in the course of which he afterwards 
rendered himself so famous. He was one of the 
last that collected black-mail, a sort of tax paid to 
purchase security against the incursions of other 
depredators. He left behind him several children. 
Xhey were not, however, so illiterate as Sir Walter 
Scott, in his popular novel, would have us to believe. 
One of his sons was a Captain in the rebel army, 
but was afterwards countenanced by the British 
Government Another son, Rob Roy Og, or the 
younger, was one of the few subscribers to the first 
edition of Keith's History of the Church of Scot- 
land, published in two large folio volumes. He was 
subsequently, in 1753, hanged for fordbly taking 
away a rich and eccentric widow, and marrying her 
against her consent. Rob Roy himself, died at 
Balquidder, where his grave-stone may still be 
seen, rudely sculptured with a sword, but without 
any inscription.* 

Little can be said respecting the mineralogy of 
the districts through which we have passed. The 
rock of Dunbarton, we have said, is basaltic. Lime- 
stone is found at Arden, Levenside, and other places, 
and a coarse moorstone at Kilmaronock. A deep 
red sandstone is quarried to great extent in the 

* Toirards the head of Loch-Lomond there is « small island, called 
Ellan-a-bhu, on which are the remains of an old castellet. In a vault 
of this rnin, a man of singular character has taken up his abode, and 
lives in the primitive manner of a hermit. He has loi^ kept a calendar 
of passing events, but in such hieroglyphical figures as are only known 
tonimseli. He keeps a boat, which lie occasionally nses in iirocuring 
rapi^ for his cell, which the charity of the neighbourhood aftords him; 
ana he sdmetimee carries aniaU artictos of merchandise for sale. 

d by Google 

valley of Leven, and on tlie southern bank of Loch- 
Lomond. The slates of Camstradden are of various 
colours and sizes. Those of a dark-blue colour are 
reckoned most durable, and those measuring above 
9 inches by 6 are counted large sized. No coal is 
found in this district. Ben-Lomond consists of 
granite, and micaceous schistus, with large masses 
of white quartz imbedded in it 

The steam-boat now reverses her course, and 
follows the same track, already described, to Luss; 
along the shore of which, to Balloch, may be well 
designated the loveliest portion of the Lake. Island 
here succeeds island, in beautiful succession, and 
from their proximity to each other, seem often to 
present a barrier to the' progress of the vessel. 
Among these, the stranger will be most struck 
with the appearance of Inch Tavennoch, or Monk's 
Island, I mile long, and ^ mile broad. 

Withio this little lonely isle, 
There stood a conaecrated pile. 
Where tapers bam'd, and mass was sung 
For them whose timid spirits clung 
To mortal succour, though the tomb 
Had fix'd, for ever fix*d, their doom. 

This is, without contradiction, the loveliest of all 
the isles; and the one upon which all the Dr. 
Syntaxes of sketching celebrity, are sure to land. 
Many a gay party feast annually on its summit; 
and from that point has many a famous limner car- 
ried away mementoes of the fairy scenes which 
there met his gaze. The view from the summit of 
this island is considered one of the finest The 
Loch, with all its isles, lies like a map spread out 
before the eye, while the near and distant moun- 

Digitized by Google 

tains, grouped by nature, require no composition 
to fit them for the painter's pencil. Ben-Lomond, 
too, from this point, looks down with the majesty 
of the first King of Israel upon his more pigmy 
associates, while many an evening he has a halo of 
golden mist around his summit, not at all unlike 
the glorious areola around the head of a saint! 

To the south of this island is Inch Galbraith; 
farther, on the right, is Rossdoe, Sir J. Colquhoun, 
Bart; more to the south is Ross Lodge, Colquhoun, 
and the Glen of Finglass. About li mile farther 
is Glen Fruin, the scene of a sanguinary conflict 
between the Macgregors and the Colquhouns, in 
which nearly all the latter were slain. On the 
right, is Dunfion or Fingal's Hill. Inch Murrin 
is again passed, and, on the mainlanci, Arden, 
Buchanan. Farther down the Loch, on the right, 
is Belretirb, Mrs. Rowat; Cameron House, Smol- 
lett, &c. At last, the steam-boat arrives at Balloch, 
whence the passengers return to Dunbarton by the 
conveyances formerly mentioned. 

If the weather has proved propitious, the traveller 
may now be said to have witnessed a concentration 
of Nature's loveliest and wildest scenery. Its 
characteristic features are, beauty, variety, and 
sublimity. Throughout, there is nothing of same* 
ness; every opening prospect appears, if possible, 
more interesting and sublime than that which pre- 
cedes it. Amid such scenes the eye cannot fail to 
gaze with rapture, and the heart to offer up its 
worship; and though the tongue feels itself inca- 
pable of expressing the emotions that are experi^ 
eneed, the stranger, after visiting this &iry land. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


must be at least satisfied, that there is no Decessity 
to leave the shores of Britain in search of the 
beauties or the magi^ifieence of Nature. 




Of the various routes by which the stranger may 
explore the picturesque and romantic beauties of 
the Trosachs, and its neighbouring scenery, there 
is none which is at all to compare with the one we 
are about to describe. By it the traveller is led by 
the most pleasing stages, from scenes of softness 
and simplicity, to those of wildness and sublimity, 
while at each successive step he will best recognise 
those objects which are associated with the &ncied 
beings of " The Lady of the Lake."* 

We will suppose tike stranger to have arrived at 
Stbling, where he may spend a day with much 
pleasure, not only in visiting the many natural 
beauties of its neighbourhood, but also in contem- 
plating the scenes of so many mighty events that 

* Should the traveller think of pursuiDg the route from Loeb-Lomond 
to the Trosachs and Stirling, he will leave the ateam-boat at the Mill of 
Inversnaid, and as a guide to this interesting journey, he is merely to 
revene the olgecti deteiled in this roate. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


ct y6re took jJace in this tbe " cradle of our kings.'' 
The town of Stirling is one of the most ancient in 
Scotland; and even at this hour presents, in its many 
venerable remains of antiquity, the indications of its 
former importance, when it was the residence of 
royalty, and was a rival in dignity even with Edin- 
burgh itself. Of these buildings, we may mention 
the Greyfriars Church, which was erected by James 
V. Here it was that the Earl of Arran, during 
Mary's minority, publicly renounced the reformed 
religion. It was here, too, that James VI. was 
crowned. To the north of this Church stand the 
ruiufil of a building called Marr's Work. This was 
erected by the Regent Marr, during the minority 
of James VI. and was built from the ruins of 
Cambuskenneth Abbey, which was founded by 
David I. of Scotland in 1147, for a company of 
Augustines. In the immediate neighbourhood of 
Marr's Work, is a large building called Argyle's 
Lodging, built by the Earl of Stirling, an eminent 
poet. The town of Stirling contains about 8000 

Besides the buildings above alluded to, there are 
others deeply interesting to the antiquary. The 
great point of attraction, however, in Stirling, is 
its Castle. It is taken notice of as early as the 9th 
century, and was the rendezvous of the Scottish 
army which defeated the Danes at Luncarty. It 
became a royal residence in the 12th century. It 
was the favourite abode of James I. and was the 
birth-place of James II. Here, too, he perpetrated 
that atrocious deed on the Earl of Douglas, which 
stains his memory. The room where this bloody 

d by Google 


deed was done, is still known by Douglas's room. 
Within the fortification, is the palace built by 
James V. a large ornamented square building. 
Adjoining the Castle, is the Parliament-House; 
and close to it, is the Chapel-Royal, now used as 
a store-room and armoury. This fortress was the 
birth-place of James IV. Within it was his son 
James V. crowned. It was here, too, that the 
unfortunate Mary underwent the same ceremony; 
and that her son James, and her grandson Prince 
Henry, were baptized; and that the former passed 
the whole of his minority under the care of the 
celebrated Buchanan. Behind the Castle, on a 
mount, Duncan, Earl of Levenax; the Regent, 
Duke of Albany; his son-in-law; and his grand- 
son, Alexander, were beheaded on the 26th May 
1425. Walter, the eldest son, having been be- 
headed on the preceding day. 

Being the key to the northern parts of the king- 
dom, it was besieged by General Monk in 1651, 
and by Prince Charles Edward in 1746. A ter- 
race-walk goes round the Castle on the outside, 
upon which seats are formed out of the rock, for 
viewing the interesting scenery below, and the 
windings of the Forth. On the south side, below 
the Castle are several enclosures, and a circular 
mound, flat on the top, in form of a table, called 
the Knot, with benches of earth around it, on which 
were kept rural festivals, and where the knights of 
the round table held their pastimes. In the Castle- 
hill is a hollow which was used for tournaments; 
and on the south is a small rocky mount, called the 
Ladies' Hill, on which the fair spectators witnessed 
the deeds of chivalry. 

d by Google 

On leaving this ancient residence of our Scottish 
kings, for the Trosachs, the traveller will pass along 
the ancient bridge which connects the two sides of 
the Forth. From this point a beautiful view is had, 
on looking down the river; on the one hand is 
beheld the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey; near 
which, in rugged grandeur, rises the Abbey Craig, 
upon which, in 1297, the Scottish army, under 
Wallace, rushed down to oppose the passage of 
the English, under Warenne, and routed them with 
great slaughter. About 2 miles forward, pass on 
the right a road leading to Blairlogie, a sort of 
MontpeUer for invalids; and also at a short distance 
on the right, Airthrey, Lord Abercromby. Close 
to this is a spring, similar to that of Cromlix, near 
Dunblane, but, if any thing, more saline. It is 
much frequented during summer, and has occa- 
sioned the erection lately of a number of very good 
houses at the Bridge of Allan, the village most con- 
tiguous. On crossing the river Allan, the banks of 
which are richly wooded and highly romantic, the 
road ascends an eminence, from which is seen a 
splendid view of the valley which extends on the 
west from Gartmore, on the east from Falkirk, and 
includes within it all the strange and serpentine 
windings of the Forth. On passing Lecroft Church 
on the left, the tourist enters Perthshire. Here he 
will be struck with the splendid plantations which 
surround Keir, the elegant residence of James 
Stirling, Esq. 

A little way beyond this, enter the thriving vil- 
lage of Doune, situated near the junction of the 
Ardoch with the Teith. This place is chiefly in- 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


tetestingf from the minB of Doune Castle, formerly 
one of the finest baronial residences in ScotlancL 
This ruin is beautifully placed on a peninsula, at 
the conflux of the rivers alluded to, and is supposed 
to have been erected by the Regent Murdoch, Duke 
of Albany. In form it is square, the walls of it being 
80 feet high and 10 thick. On the ground floor 
there are several cellars and prisons; and the apart- 
ments which were occupied by the £Eunily, are 
reached by two outside stairs. One stair leads up 
to a spacious lobby, dividing the great hall from 
the kitchen. The former being upwards of 60 feet 
long and about 25 feet broad. The other stair con- 
ducts to the apartments in the tower, where there 
is a spacious arch-roofed room, communicating with 
the great hall alluded to. In the upper stories, there 
are several apartments. From the arch-roofed 
chamber, there descends a narrow stair, which leads 
by a subterranean passage to a dismal dungeon, 
from which all light is excluded, save that which it 
borrows from a small room above, through a square 
hole in its arched roof, evidently left for the pur- 
pose of preventing suffocation, and to let down a 
pittance to a prisoner. This Castle was once the 
£unily seat of the Earls of Monteith, and is now 
the property of Lord Moray. During the hey-day 
of Mary's love for Damley, this was occupied by 
them as a favourite hunting-seat In 1745, it was 
held by a body of rebels, under McGregor of Glen- 
gyle, better known by the appellation of Ghlunn 
Dhu. In the same year, a party of royaUst volun- 
teers, among whom was Mr. Home, the author of 
Douglas, were captured by McGregor, and con- 

d by Google 


fined in this Castle. Thp narrative of this event, 
and of the escape of the young whigs from their 
place of confinement, has been most graphically 
described in Mr. Home's History of the Rebellion. 
Leaving Donne, about 1^ mile pass on the right 
CJambus Wallace, or Doune Lodge, Earl of Moray. 
Beyond this on tbe left, the ruins of the Old Church, 
Cemetery, and Manse of Kilmadock. Three miles 
fartber, on the opposite bank of the Teith, which 
here roUs and tumbles over a rugged channel, stands 
Clan Gregor Castle, Sir E. McGregor, Bart; 3 
miles beyond this, Cambusmore, Buchanan, a beau- 
tifiol residence embowered in wood, and beautified 
by the Water of Keltic. It was here^ and in its 
neighbourhood, that Sir Walter Scott passed the 
greater part of his boyhood, and probably imbibed 
a love for this portion of the country, with which 
his genius is now so closely associated. At a short 
distance from this, enter Callander, beautifully 
situated upon the banks of the river Teith, imme- 
diately upon the confines of the Highlands, and 
surrounded with woods and scenery of the most 
romantic description. To the west, towers the 
stupendous mountain of Ben Ledi; and to the 
north, is the Craig, a long ridge of high picturesque 
rocks. Close to the village, are the almost entire 
enclosures of what is denominated a Camp, said to 
have been the boundary of Roman conquest in this 
direction: the army having been checked in their 
&rther progress, by what appeared to them the 
insurmountable barriers of stem ruggedness, pre- 
sented to their view by the mountains that rise 
immediately to the west of Callander. Some 

d by Google 


writers, however, are of opinion, that this singular 
appearance is a production of nature, and various 
theories have been given to account for its origin. 
To the north-west, is the &r-famed Pass of Leny, 
which, even at the present day, with a few men, 
could be defended against a numerous army. This 
Pass is wild, yet beautiful and impressive, formed 
along the steep and dark banks of an impetuous 
river. It presents a scene of the most interesting 
and singular character; and being only about 2 
miles beyond Callander, is an object well worth a 
visit About a mile to the north-east from the vil- 
lage, the romantic bridge of Bracklinn, thrown over 
the river Keltie, should also be visited. It consists 
of a rustic arch, withoujk any ledge, thrown across 
a chasm 50 feet deep, in which the river Keltie, a 
rapid stream, is heard furiously dashing onward its 
perturbed waters. The projecting rocks are finely 
overhung with variegated copsewood. The path 
to it winds along the sides of shelving rocks that 
hang overhead, while the waters of a rapid cataract, 
partly tossed over a broken precipice, £Edl at last in 
one sheet into a ravine below. The gloom and 
horror of this place are appalling to the strongest 
nerves; a more hazardous position than that of the 
bridge of Bracklinn, is hardly conceivable. Near 
this, is seen a delightful view of the whole vale of 
Monteith, Doune and S:tirling Castles forming the 
most striking objects in the picture. 

The road from Callander to the Trosachs, goes 
off to the west, close by the banks of the Teith; 
and the individual acquainted with the stanzas of 
the " Lady of the Lake," will now recognise at 

d by Google 


en^ry 3t«pi tb^ stones so grapbiiss^r p^nte4 ii& 
tbi^t.poenv On quitting tb^.raU^y of Bp<j?i0stle| 
th?. tji^vi^lier will jimroediatiejy ^ad hii^aelf by th« 
" awQ4iag toir^^il;" of Carchoft^sif ; 

WUdib 4a¥gter (Of ^am mghty VOm* 
Prom Venodchar in silv^ breaks, 
Sweeps through the plain, and ceaseless mines 
'' >- Oa BoelMSde, the mottMarfag liiies 
Wbeie HasDfif jthe empress of the world. 
Of yore her ea^le ^i^jngs unfurl'd. 

Beyond whicli, ig C<HlantQgle Ford, wkere the gal- 
lant Fitz-James " with single brand** overcame the 
fierce chieftain Eoderit^k Dim, 9jad where, after the 
fearful combat, 

He iidter'd tliaiibr fo Heayen for Ufe^ 
I|q4eepi'd>«libopod>^ni deepen^ strife . . 

Soon after tib^ L£^e Vennaehar, 5 miles fong and 
1 J mile broad, burets npon the view; in i^roaeh* 
ing which, the scenery begins to assume a new and 
interesting chara^tex^p The margija of the Lake is 
adorned with wood, and has many pmnts of land 
which beauty the scenery. On the right, Ben 
Ledi . is seen, with its green summit, from which 
there is a very extensive prospect, reaching from 
the borders of England to Inyerness-shire, and 
along the rivers and friths of the Forth and the 
Clyde. Many druidical reliques are to be «een 
upon the base of Ben JLedii and, from the sacred 
point pf view in which it was held during the days 
of Paganism in Scotland, it is supposed to have 
been a chief statji^qn of the Dmid priests. 
j:. AinM^ iiiM^ jfeom tfce -wester^ ^tr^jgaily of 
iLfi^'^^Wmismt m» o^s^ade <^e to ^ pjac^ f^ed 
MUi»toWp. JBeypnd ^hi^ jus Cfuri^pn^e or jthe 


Digitized by VjOOQ IC ' 

Wood of Lamentation; so designated from die 
tradition^ that the river demon or kelpy, who de- 
lights to forbode and to witness calamity, frequented 
this spot, and on one occasion brought destruction 
on a funeral procession with all its attendants. On 
a level headland close to the end of the Lake, may- 
be seen the spot \idiich Sir W. Scott chooses as the 
gathering-place of Clan Alpine — the spot where 

VeDnachar in silver flows; 
niere ridge on ridj^e Ben-Ledi rose. 
Ever the hollow path twined on 
Beneath steep bank and threatening stone; 
An hundred men might hold the post 
With hardihood against a host; 

And where, at the shrill whistle of the companion 
of Fitz-James, the glen was on the instant garri- 
soned with full five hundred men, and where the 
mountaineer exclaimed, while he 

Cast a glance of pride 
Along Ben-Ledi*B living side, 
Then fix'd hb eye and saUe brow 
Pull on Fite-Jameo " How eay'st thou now ? 
These are Clan Alpine's warriors true, 
And, Saxon, / am Roderick Dhul ** 

Passing the western extremity of Loch-Venna- 
char about a mUe, the traveller will reach an emi- 
nence, from which there is a beautifid view of the 
river as it issues out of Loch-Achray, and winds 
through the verdant meadows which lie between 
these lovely lakes. Not fsx from this, stands the 
picturesque village of Duncraggon, whose huts 

* Peep like moss-grown rooks hal^seen, 
Half hidden in the copse so green. 

It was here where the Henchman bearing the 
** Fiery Cross,'* charmed by the incantations of the 
lone Seer Brian, first rested, as he sped forward 

. Digitized by VjOOQIC 


0^«r fhe wild rock, dvoagk mountttii ftm. 

The trembliDg bog, and £dae moraas^ 

— to summon the Clan, and was at once the herald 
of danger and of death to the followers of Roderick 

At a short distance from Duncraggon, is the 
Bridge of Turk, where Fitz-James in the chase 
lost sight of ail his followers. The scenery here is 
exceedingly beautiful, especially where it stretches 
up into Glen-Finlas, an ancient deer forest, formerly 
belonging to the Scottish monarchs, now to the Earl 
of Moray. 

On proceeding forward, the traveller will soon 
find himself amid 

The copaewood grey 
That waves and wefepe on Loch Achray, 
And mingles with the pine trees blue 
On the bold diib of BenTenne. 

The scenery now, at every step, becomes more 
and more picturesque and romantic. On reaching 
each successive headland, there is a new and splendid 
landscaipe presented by Nature, ready for the pencil 
of the most festidious painter; while the lake, at one 
moment partially concealed by wood, and at another 

* Hie Fiery Cron, abo Crean Tarigh or the CrottvfShamef boeauae 
disobedience to what the symbol implied, inferred iniamy. This waa 
deliTeied to a swift and trusty messenger, who ran foil speed with it to 
the next hamlet, where he presented it to the principal person, with a 
ungle word implying the place of rendezvous. He who received it waa 
bound to send it forward with equal despatch to the next village; and 
thus it passed, with incredible celerity, through all the district whidi 
owed allegiance to the chief, and also amons his allies and neighbours, 
if the danger was common to them. At sight of the Fiery Cross, every 
man from 16 to 60, capable of bearing arms, was obliged instantly to 
repair to the plaee of rendenrous. • He who fiuled to appear, suflered the 
extremities ot fire and sword, which were emblematically denounced to 
the disobedient by the bloody and burned marks upon the warlike signal. 
In 1746» the Fiery Cross passed through the whole district of Breadal- 
bane^ a tract of SS miles, in three hours. 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


spread out like a mirror refleetiDg *^ the forest- 
feathered sides" of the mountains, give a delightful 
stimulus to even the most unpoetical temperament. 
At the most western headland, the scene that meets 
the eye of the stranger is indeed superb. Here, 
the distant left of the picture is filled up with the 
majestic outline of Benvenue^ the distant right by 
the lightning-riven summit of Benan; while tH^ 
Trosachs, consisting of a broken, insulated, and 
diversified series of wooded rocks in wild confusion, 
occupy the space which intervenes between the tW^O 
mountains. Loch- Achray is in the middle distance, 
while the foreground boasts all the adjuncts of rocks, 
wood, and wild flowers. 

Near die farther extremity of this lovely Lake, is 
the Inn of Ardkenachrocan, where guides may be 
procured to the Trosachs and Locb-£etturin, and 
where most excellent aceommodatipn isnowafforded. 

On entering the Trosachs or the Bristled Tend-: 
lory, one of the most magnificent and sublime scenes 
in nature meets the eye. Here we find oun^^dves 
at the threshold of one of the most difficult Fassfs 
inta the Grampiaas, surrounded on every hand by 
mountains front whose precipitous and rocky sides 
luring the oak, the alder, and the weeping Ibirch. 
From the fantastic forms of the rocks and hills, the 
threatening precipice and the torn mountain, we 
feel that Nature must have given one of her most 
convulsive throes, when such a scene as this was 
first brought forth, . 

Within the dark ravine below, 
Where twined the path in shadow hid 
AtNind many a rodcjr pyramid* 
Shooting abruptly from the deil 

d by Google 


III ihwite-^pUiiteif'd fvawek; 
Round many an insulated maas, 
'HiB ik^ve bulwarkb of the jmss, 
Shge m Ae tonrer ^«ik b«il<t^i Wft 
Frwmf t^oua jpled on, Shinair'a p]«uu^ 
The r'odcy summita split and reni, 
Form'd turret, dome, or battlement; 
Or Beem*d UatwAetSfy mi 
With evfohk m minaieti 
WiM ereato a« pagod e^er «kek'd» 
Or moa^e of eastern architect 

We here too hehpld that those earth-boni castles 
are. ncit.lackia:^ in fidr vmd t»rilliapt banners;, fjox 
from their shivered Iprows^ roses, creeping plants 
and flowers, of. si thousand dyea, are seen to cliji^ 
wd..}i^v:e " ia i^e yi^est wind's summer sighi?." 
Herei in^ JFaqt, we beh^old the exuber?»ee of v«ye- 
tatiofi;pon^rasted with stein sterility— the rich and 
coIjQiU;red g^ture oJf the yWley, in coniibin^tiQn 
with, tjie grey m^ hoary svmmit of the mounifcain; 
whilf; aronnd there ia not, a.saund, saye that wMcb 
cornea fropi th^ thousand brawling torrents which 
£bw luvs^en throi^h the tangled thickets. 

On. pprQceeding. fprwaid throngh this ^byrinth, 
vfiA^h up) (orpfif^TfJy imp^ssjablf , the strafPf Pf %?ads 
^ gl9i9wy apyd nigged d/^H where *^ 5i^e. gallant 
gr^y" pij Jlta^-James, wh^e he was cheering; Ae 
Iioii^ds oj^ tjtie^ y^uush^d S^^y. ^^U. e^s^hwi^d;^ and 
where, ^ 

Tonch'd with pity and i«mone^ 
HeBorrgw'4ft!eptbe.ai9MV«M>*- . 

The range of rocks on the left, is remarkable for 
an echo which i^tiinctly repeats a, word several 
times. On issuiBg> from dii» wild and sublime 
defile, known by the appelli^tion of iB>i^al-^^ui Duine, 
from the axcwmtgm^ rf % party .(£ Cromwell's 

d by Google 


soldiers haying been forced to retire, afiber leaving 
one of their comrades dead on the spot, whose grave 
marks the scene of action and gives name to the 
pass, the stranger obtains a first glimpse of Loch- 

A luurrow inlet stifi md deepf 
Affording scarce such breadth of brim 
Ab serve the wild dadc'a brood to swim. 

On reaching the banks of Loch-Ketturin, he will 
be astonished with the magnificent landscape which 
meets his gaze. Nature in her wildest and most 
romantic aspect is there exhibited, and seems as if 
she had collected her every production, and con- 
centrated all her energies to render the scenery 
sublime. Mountains and rocks in wild confusion, 
adorned with trees and shrubs of every description, 
even to the tops of the highest eminences, give to 
the landscape a wonderful variety of the grand and 
the picturesque. Nature here, is indeed eloquent 
and impressive, and awakens sentiments and emo- 
tions at once pleasing, serious, and instructive. On 
advancing along the road, which has been cut out 
of the solid rock, the Lake, ** with promontory, 
creek, and bay," which was previously hidden by 
" Ellen's Isle," breaks upon the view, fully realiz- 
ing the following graphic description of the " Min- 
strel of the North:" 

High on the aostfti* huge BtmeoMp 
Down on the Lake in maaaes threw 
Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurrd, 
The filaments of an earlier world. 
A wiUeriiig fi»reat ftKHmr'd o'cK 
t His ruin*d si4e8 and Buminit hoai:; 

While on the north, through middle air, 
Benan beared high hit forbheiri-barBk 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


• Before the pfresent road iiras formed^ tiie only 
mode of visiliiig this &arf scene w»s by a patli 
dowB a steep descent, by die assistance of a rope 
made of osier or bireh twigs, and fasten^ to tibe 
trunk of a tree. This rendered a visit to it bolh 
difficult apd dangerous* But, at present, it can be 
viewed in every part, with tire utmost ease and 
safety^ In some places, the road is cut through tibe 
face of a solid rock, which rises upwards of 200 feet 
above the surface of the water. By this means, 
numerous situations, many of them elevated some 
hundred feet above the Lake, are to be obtained 
for viewing its beauties, all of which are so obvious 
that the traveUer can readily discover them. Pro- 
ceeding to the west, pass Breanchoil, oppoidie to 
which, is a square rock, projecting a'bold headland 
into the Loch. Here, the view is truly magnifi- 
cent. A broad sheet of water, 6 miles long and 2 
miles broad, is under the eye; the remaining four 
miles, to which the Loch extends, being lost in a 
turn among the mountains to the right. The pros- 
pect is terminated towards the west by the lofty 
mountains around Arroquhar, and those upon tl^ 
banks of Loch-Lomond. In front, is the Lady's 
Island, where ^^ the Lady of the Lake," shooting 
forth her little, ski^ had her .first interview with 
the enamoured Fitz-James. Advancing fiarther; 
the Lake is for some distance lost to ike view, but 
it soon after bursts upon the sight with increased 
BUigfnifieence;'and a cluster of islands, bays, and 
capes,, appear, in every pleasing form and varied 
porition. A short Way &rtker, a new portion of the 
JLAe opens to the view; and at ite northetii ex- 

d by Google 


tib^.dj(|twtini9W(piQ9,QC.AY?oq is obt^MieU 

Tbftfl^esi^^fy « ^«ry ii4e, U wriched by «^ miMn 
fi^ty qi wbliPfte.^JQPfei Qiaqttlated to ^ptml^ 
tb^ fly^^wd t»»^#i>rd ple^U* subjeote Qfiadwpi*^ 
ti(9Q to th^ ii;iio4v tofty BWttAtew fijjqrovfid by 
da?fi Wdiiig fltreBmSj :piwiei^oms bare crop;, ^d 4^p 

wppds, bwrtif^tty vweg^ijt^ f#d 4wpo*^, £wm 

ilUQb * seri^si of granid ^nd IntM^ting pbje^ 9^ 
mu^. . fy^^Aix^ ey^i^y p^r^n of. taate, H^to . ^ff^ 
s^^i^ nujDaei(9^ft ^Hm of tbe I^Jte; tberjd a^f|ybit)4 
lif a41(M)dsf, wbpf^.Wwb roqkft dip iot§ ftnfef. h < w » g» bte 
W*<i«rrfin tfep oft^ bw4 tjb^ ^to ^ajpdjfl .tb» 
bo1;tom< qf (bqu^b j*iy, bleaplied fo? fige^i by tb^ Tfav^ 
fpfff^a pkasUiftplu^t )» ti^e pi^t^ire; wbUe oi^^ 
9^r}\^^ ^e SQ^ cu^g^ ^ filiupepdoi|£| ^liffs^s 
^d tf^^P sbooti^ fepth jfteii roots. mA tb^i? ver-r 
diw^, m pla^^s i«|her^.Qa 9^1 ift to be ^eei^, Ev^Wf 
TO^bw iliaie^boi ey^ry gfwfe is vooaJL. Down tb© 
lii($ie^pf ^e;iil§imt^9 flow a. bwdred i^bito, st^eaa^g 
into.ftie JL^, Wi4 ppyfad.^i? frotb^qp. it^smr&o^, 
Iq 9, wmi» 0«^ cahoot ^drwce twenty y^ds wi«b* 
fli(]ti,b(if|^. 4h$ iHH^pooi obftPgi^d by tbfi «odtwi§l 
9P]^a||no9!:^lp^raF.obji@iQtfk< ... . ., . ; • 

^ A|lif^tbf^iit7m§^b99M 

ft^ l^^'b^ mgU to t^ei 4 b«^ii md YWt.Mfe ai^ir 

f^^Mlib VPOA 0$^ of ^wbidi tbevo. bfl^LlfltfiiyfaOf® 

«i^ck?dift. jP€af wtip;6ixfiwtiior-bo^3e> bi^it j^artji^itorljf 
iii^rfiiMtwsiddA, jor tb§ l^gQblbft)! dpiw'' Tbk ii 

d by Google 

m rerj steqi and Tomflntk hoikmr in the moonliia 
of Benramew It U sarrounded with sttq^endwii 
yodc% and vvinftbadddwidiitiwod, «|/tfae bne of 
wlixck inige masses of stiHie are pSbd -upon one 
aoolliB^, £atnmgf^Qurtm9 of. variont diiiMnfloD% 
wMob' wef e farmeily tie feceptadw of fomeioat 
bandifttL • Thk cave, the niagkiation of thesi^r* 
sdtkna has cdnoeiyed to be the. dwelling^pkoe^ 
aupematutal beings. Ttadition, in £MtyaMiibo8 to 
tke IMiA^ arfigme between a goat and man, tbo 
name of this gloomy flfiot, <tbeKrcai tmnahdon of 
Coir^nn-uriflkin hoii^ tlioif f den of tke wild'or shagv 
gy moBL" : It was herenrhere the Doi^lv coootalod 
his daugkter from Roderick Dhm^ and wkeie tko 
<^ angel liymn of die Lady 4vf the Lake,'* in p^nsvre 
aighfl). was ndsed to heavens A ditlie higher «p'tho 
mototttoLithnn thei Cbir*iiafi«uffiski% is Boalach- 
nanU'Boy TOD.the f* paw of catde/' a most laagnili* 
cent/glade^ orerdbadowed >witk ancient ^ weeping 
bizche»i S^om this, the stranger may reach the 
summit of .Benyenue^ where he wfll be dimply. r»» 
paid (foe the &tigue incident to a rathor adveirtaMMis 
ezpedilioB, by the view: wUdL is* there opened np 
to him*. . 

Having visited every thing remarkable about tUs 
ediebrated. LsJce, the tennellery'sboBU he wish, to 
visii*tfae romantic scenery towards -the oouth, wffi 
retnm to the opening of the Tfosachs» from, which 
is a &ot4path to Aberfbyle. From Ardkenaorodian 
to this place, the read is peculiarly wild^and ro^ 
mantic, and is well worthy of* the tread of «vory 
k^rerof the picturesque. It is only 5 miles io 
lengthy but it affords: almost at every step a novel 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


and interefllinf dktant kndieape. The prospect 
from what k termed Cndgvad, is peculiarly grand 
and eztensiye. From diis celebrated spot, the tra- 
Teller has not only a bird's eye view of the Tro^ 
sachs, but also of Lochs Vennachar and Achray, 
and all the eoontry in the direction of Callander and 
Stirling. On desoending the hill on the opposite 
side» a beautiful view of the course of the Forth, or 
as it is here called, the Arendhu or Black River, is 
had. At .the bottom of this hill, is the Ckchan of 
Abecfeyle, so much celebrated in the novel of Rob 
Roy. Here, there is an excellent inn, where ac- 
commodation may be had for a conriderable number 
of travellers. The vale of Abeifoyle is encompassed 
on all sides by mountains, the greater part of which 
will afford abundant amusement to the mineralogist 
About 1^ mile westward from the inn, Loch-Ard, 
in all its beauty, presents itself to the traveller's 
^e. It is an exceedingly pretty sheet of water, 
of about 3 miles long by 1 broad, and although cer- 
tainly inferior in picturesque grandeur to Loch- 
Ketturin, is neverdieless infinitely superior to many 
lakes that are more celelmited. Behind its western 
extremity rises the lofty Ben-Lomond, which from 
this point resembles in some degree a sugar-^loaf. 
A little beyond the. upper Loch-Ard, w^^ch is se- 
parated from the lower by a stream of 200 yards in 
length, the road passes along the margin of the Lake, 
nnd^ a kdge of perpendicular rocks, at which spot 
there is an uncommonly good echo. A litde to the 
east of the lower Lodi^ Ard, there is a very beautiftd 
cascade of about 30 feet, formed by the Forth or 
Avendhu; wlule, at the west end of the upper 

d by Google 


Loeh, there is a mest romantic waterfidl, whldi 
after tumbling ten feet into a basin which it has 
scooped in the solid rock, descends over a nigged 
slope of fifty feet, surrounded by a scene of sylvan 
beauty. From this, there is a road by LocInCon 
to Inversnaid Mill on the one hand, and to Rowar- 
dennan and Ben-Lomond on the other. 

On proceeding about 5 miles to the eastward 
firom the village of Aberfoyle, tibe traveller will 
have the opportunity of seeing the sweetly situated 
Lake of Monteith, with its two beautiful islets. 
This Lake is about 5 miles in circumference, and 
is nearly circular. Its northern shore is graced with 
stately oaks, chesnuts, and sycamores, amid whidi 
will be observed the Parish Church, Manse, and 
modern Cemetery of the &mily of Gartmore. 
Upon the largest of the two islands, stands the 
Priory of Inchmahome, founded by E<%ar, King 
of Scotland, and celebrated as the secluded resi- 
dence of Mary before she was if^moved to France. 
Upon the. small island, stand the ruins of the man- 
sion of the Earls of Monteith. 

If the traveller, when at the Trosachs, would 
rather proceed immediately to Loch-Lomond, he 
wiU take a boat which will limd him at Stronclachaig, 
a few miles from the head of Loch-Ketturin, where 
he will find tax-carts or ponies to transport himself 
and luggage to the Mill of Inversnaid. 

The sail up Loch-Ketturin is exceedingly inte- 
resting, and the boats are safe and well manned. 
On leaving the immediate vicinity of die Trosachs^ 
pass, successively, on the right, Breanchoil, Letter, 
\^idralecach, StroangpEdvaltry, Ardmaemnin, Coil- 

d by Google 

flra^ wd iMmttnit m ik^ left, Q]mAoi%md 
C!i|a0B]ft; md^ ^ a, ^ttrnw, w the left^.Bea* 
C hodmtu Abont bal^voir. up tbe Leeb, B^* 
I^omoDcl farrakB j^n the vm^ u^d^ no P9pe<^ of 
itrikiiig jgrapdetur. TJbe 99ttth«m htnk, as wcdl as 
tlie wkoW puriskttif AbeWbyb, in whiah it Um^ m 
the property «f the Duka ^ Mo^^^ne; the pcirthern 
\mak bdongB to Lidjr WiUoughbjr D'&esby^ the 
Ei^rl <tf Moray, and Sir Patrick Murray pf Ochl^^ 

From llie hosd>>botia^ at Str(»dacbiug>, the 
MUi of Inverffioaid, 19 a diataotee of %m ^mil^ si, 
tfiringih m exfseediagiy vild and baif ea eou^try. 
Ahoiit midrvay* p«9% on the Ieft» XiOch'^Arldetp 
«diofi0 am&ce ia o^rshadow^di by ihe ktfty Be|i^ 
Lomevid. From ihia Locb diie V^ti» alaream of th^ 
Aridll itafcea ubs iSse, flowiog »ob itiU git^ jUl^^ inito 
iiodh-LwaLond, ever the cascade «t lov^s^aid MiQ. 
A Utile bi&yoiid ibe Ix^ch, Ike 1i»,TeIler f^aebe^ 
i«ther <a atiikiog ficeiie. In ^e fro^t is a tw^ 
bridge, with a roaring eila:«aixi» «vhile, fupon a Boiit 
of esplanade above, stands^he old und ruiAoas gar- 
insonof Inyer0aai4 built for the proteetion p£ the 
dastnet ^galoAt the attacks of Ebb Boy and )m 
fbllKVFeara. in this .loiieily ft^iliress, live fymcm 
G^mml Wolfe wm onee stationed, when an oAeer 
in^JB^fs^ Perhaps oiie ef the mesi; atjcjjimg and 
touching obje^ abcmt this ilonely rmh i^ ^e UU)^ 
Hj^Iected cemetery, whece a lew greetpi hiy0QbsAnd 
jn^iBtonea maik the «pQft undei which ithe ]D0nefi 
Af jj3HB £nglbh soM«er$/fe^.wbo bade adi^ 40 >U& 
xBtAiJim liitildernesa. A hm imonnd pi ^9^ is aU 
•tfcatienfltiiaea this faiirial-npilaee{ wd, with (^ ^exeep- 

Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


tion of the rude stones alluded to, there is noi^kt 
to particularize the sacred spot but its peculiar 
verdure. There are only the traces of two inscrip- 
tions — the one would mock the piercing eyes of 
Old Mortality — the other is more legible, and is 
as follows: — " Jane, ye wife of John Hyeic, of ye 
Buffs, died March ye 4th, 1750, aged 37." 

Leaving Inversnaid Garrison, the traveller pro- 
ceeds along a narrow and wooded pass, which at 
length brings him to the cottage at Inversnaid Mill, 
where he may either wait the steam-boat that plies 
on Loch-Lomond, or can take a boat which will 
carry him to Tarbet, whence he can proceed to 
Loch-Long, Inverary, or the Western Highlands. 

The mineralogy of this district of Perthshire, is 
not particularly interesting. Along the banks of 
Loch-Venachoir, and Loch-Achray, in the direction 
of the Trosachs, towards the east, the predominant 
rock is a species of gray-wacke, but on the western 
side of the Trosachs, micaceous schistus predom- 
inates. Lady's Isle in Loch-Ketturin is of this 
species of rock, and it continues northward to Loch- 
Lubnaig. In the vicinity of Callander, is a pud- 
dingstone rock; which, with slate and limestone, 
each a mile asunder, runs across a great tract of 
country, in three parallel lines. The slate runs in 
one line, from Luss to Dunkeld. The limestone 
rims from Buchanan to Comrie : and the pudding- 
stone runs in a third line from Gartmore to Crieff. 
The limestone is blue with white veins, and has 
been converted into chimney-pieces, which ap- 
proach the beauty of marble. 

d by Google 

lavr of IPLAsrrsftnmd in iheiriemUy cflhmb&rtmh 
Loeh-Ldnumdy ^n^Lomondy and ^ TVoMUki. 

Stiametd Name», 

Aira aquatica, 
Radiola miUcgrana, 

liysimacliia Tti]j;arii» f 

Verbascum lychnitisy 

HyiwdimiM Bifer> 
Solanum dalcimara, 

(Eoaothe pimpindloUciy 

Barteia tiseoai^ 

Carduiu marianiia, 
BAkAL yitdlitla) 
Sedam Aiiglicuiii» 
Sediiin acre, 
SMiuB tdiephiuiti^ 

Spergula nodosal 

Habenaria Tiridit, 

Cltnopodiiim Toigarei 

Litorella laei]atri% 
ftubus saberactus, 
StibuIaHa aqaatloa, 
Jaslone moatatta, 

DigltaUs pafpnrea^ 

Iiobelia dortmanna, 

Osmnnda regallf, 
laoetia laeoatria. 

Dunbarton Rock, &c. 

EngUth Ifamett %&. 

Gamp r cat cd bog-rush, near tlia rirar 

Water bidr-grasB, near Danbarton. 

Ati^ cert , road aide between Dunbar- 
ton and Helensburgh. 

Yelloir loosestrife, road-slde below 
Dumbock hilL 

White mullein, lane leading from the 
Glass-work to the Clyde. 

Common henbane, Dunbarton Roek« 

Woody nightshade, hedge on banks 
of the Leven.- 

Parsley dropwort, coast near tbt 

Yellow yiscid Bartsia, near Dum- 
buck HilL 

Milk thistle, Dunbarton Rock. 

Golden osier, near Dunbarton. 

English stonecrop, Dunbarton Roek. 

Bitter stonecrop. 

Qrpin^ 2 miles east of Dunbarton^ 
under hedges. 

Knotted spurrey, plentiful aboutDun- 

Green^ Habenaria, hill above Bow- 
ling Bay. 

Wild basil, betweoi DunbarCOfli an4 
Bowling Bay. 

hodk^homondf &c. 

PIAntaih shoreweed* 

Red*fTuited bramble, banks. 


Sheep's bit, south side of Loeh- 

FooEglove, between Lnsi and TM«^ 

with white flowers. 
Water lobelia, common in aU the 

Highhmd fochs. 
Royal spleenwort, near Inrefuglasa. 
Pepper reed-grass. 

d by Google 


Ben-Lomond, &c. 

Beianical Namet, 

Veranica Alpioa, 
S«Bleria G»raleB« 
Aira Alpinai 
Azalea procumbens, 
Ligustieum roeum, 
Janciu biglnmiS) 
TrieDtalis Europoea, 

Saxifraga stellaris, 
Snzifraga ntyalis, 
Saxifraga aizoides, 
Saxifraga oppositifolia, 
Saxifraga hypnoides, 
Ceraatium Alpinum, 
Cerattiam latifdlium, 

Itubns d&amcdmorus, 
Thalictam Alplnum, 
Gnaphalium supinum, 
Hleraciam Alpinuto, 
Hieracium lausdti!, 
Habenaria albida, 
LIstera cordata, 
Rhodiola rosea, 
juncus triglumis, 
Jancas trifidus, 
jTancUd spicatus, 
Vacciniain oxycoccos, 
Epilobiam Alpinam, 
PolygonQm yiviparaitt, 
Sllene acaalis, 

^iintu padusy 
Myrica Gale, 

Alchemilla Alpina, 
Gentiana campestria, 

Sankuki £arapaa» 
XafiddSa paliutri% 
Saitx berbaoea» 
Canx paaeiflota^*. 
TroUiiis EuropeiiSy 

Sibbaldia procombenSf 

£Hgii$h Namet, ^e. 

Alpine speedwelL 

Bkte moor-grass. 

Smooth hair*graMy Ben-Arlhitr. 

Trailing azalea, Ben-Voirlich^ 

Common spignel. 

lVo^6owered rush. 

Chiekweed wintergreen> asMBt t» 

Starry saxifi-agew 
Clustered Alpine saxifrage. 
Yellow monntain saxifiniga. 
Purple mountain saxifrage. 
Hypnoid saxifrage. 
Hairy Alpine speedwell. 
Pubescent Alpine speedwell, fien- 

Alpine meadow-rue. 
Dwarf cudweed. 
Alpine hawkweed, Ben-Arthnr. 
Glaucous hairy hawkweed. 
Small white habenaria, ascent. 
Heart-leaved Twayblade. 

Three-flowered rush. 
Three-leaved rush. 
Spiked wood rush. 
Alpine willow-herb. 
Alpine bistort. 
Moss campion,occa8ionaUy with whltb 

Bird cherry. 
Dutch myrtle, foot of Ben-Lomond, 

Alpine lady's mantle. 
Field gentian, between Tarbet and 

Arroquhar, and ascent to Ben- 
Wood sanicievaaeent to Bc»>LomoBd. 
Seottish asphodel. 
JuemfA willow. 
Few-flowered earex. 
European globe- flowar, pLeatifid 

about Ben-Lomond. 
Procumbent sibdaldla, summit of 


Digitized by VjOOQ IC 


BoUmiosd Namet, 
Statice armeria, 

Campanula latifolia^ 

HymerophyUom tunbridnf- 

Aspidium lonchitis, 
Aspidlum aculeatnfD, 
Aspleninm yiiidei 
Fteris crispa, 
Lycopodium Alpinum, 
Lycopodium selago^ 
Lycopodium selagenoides. 

EngUth Names, ^e. 
Thrift; probably the statice Alpina 

of continental botanists. 
Spreading bell-Aower, woods between 

Inversnaid & foot of Bea-Lomond. 


Fern, foot of Ben- 
Fir club moss. 

Serratula tinctoria, 
Malaxis paludosa, 
Paris quadrifolia, 

Sison inundatum, 
Lysimadiia yulgaris, 

Arbutus uva ursi, 
Hypericum androsoemum, 

Pyrola secunda, 

Drosera rotundifolia,^ 

Allium UTSinum, 

Cirooea lutetiana, 

Vaccinium uliginosum, 

Andromeda polifolia, 

Fumaria daviculata, 

The Trosachs, &c. 

Common saw-wort, Ben- Arthur. 

Marsh malaxis, Ben-Voirlich. 

Herb Paris, Glen of Leny, north of ~ 
the Loch of Monteith. 

Water honewort, near Aberfoyle. 

Yellow loosestrife, on island in tb« 
Loch of Monteith. 

Bear-berries, near Drymen. 

Tutsan, north shore of Loch- Vena- 
choir and Iioch-Ard. 

Serrated winter green, little island 
in Loch-Ard. 

Round -leaved sun-dew, Gartmore 

Beards onion, most of the glens of 
the Trosadis. 

£nchanter*8 nightshade, woods and 
coppices, frequent. 

Great bilberry, south side of Loch- 

Marsh andromeda, Blair Drummoud 

Climbing fumatory. 

il/ossff«.— Andnea Alpina, A. Rothii, and A. Rupestris— 
Gjmostoniam aesAiynm— G. curvirostrum — Splaebnum sphcefri- 
cum— Conostomum borsale-^ttngermania juneperina— Polytri- 
chum hercynicum— P.septentrionale— P. Alpinum-^Pterogonium 
gracile-^Hookeria luoens-^Lcddea oonfluen»->«Solorina < 
Isidhim ooralliniim, &c. 

Enterea in Staii«iter$* J^oA— 1831. 


d by Google 



d by Google