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DE TO WARWICK
With its Castle
AND Surroundings.
WARWICK
lENRY T, COOKE AND SON, PUBLISHERS. HIGH STREET,
PRICE SIXPEHCE.
Cooke's Guides and Photographs have
^been supplied by command to Her Majesty
the Queen; H.R.H. the Prince of Wales;
H.R.H. the Duke of York; H.R.H. the
Duchess of Teck; the late Shah of Persia;
I the King of Saxony, etc., etc.
These Photographs are now offered at a great Reduction from the
4 Published Price. For particulars enquire of
H. T. Cooke & Son, 9, Hig^h Street, Warwick.
Rec'd UCB tNVI
NOV 1 G 198a^^
( ^ATADOGPUE
OF AN ENTIRELY
JietD Series of Pl)otograpJ)0,
By FRANCIS BEDFORD.
CABINET FIGURES, 6/<
4y^
LEAMINGTON.
The Parade, and Regent Hotel 2007
The Parade, looking up the
Street 2008
Fountain in the Jephson
Gardens, and the Pump
Eoom 2010
The Parish Church, Interior,
looking East .. .. 2014
Holly Walk and Avenue . . 2016
View on the River Walk . . 2017
St. Paul's Church, from the
North-East .. .. 2018
WARWICK.
THE CASTLE:
From the Bridge .. .. 2942
By Moonlight 1359
From the Ferry . . . . 2944
The Entrance 29i5
From the Outer Court . . 1362
The River Front . . . . 1977
View ill the Outer Court . . 1979
The Portcullis 1364
The Porter's Lodge . . . 1361
The Inner Court, from the
Mount 1980
The Principal Front, from the
Mouut 19S1
Gatehouse and Caesar's Tower 19.'^2
Gatehouse aud Guy's Tower 1933
Entrance Porch aud Caesar's
Tower 1981
The Great Hall, looking West 1;)35
The Great Hall, looking East 1986
The State Dining Room . . 1987
The Breakfast Room . . . . 1988
The Red Drawing Room . . 1989
The Cedar Drawing Room,
looking West
The Cedar Drawing Room,
1990
looking East
1991
Queen Anne's Bedroom
1992
The Warwick Vase
1993
The Cedars of Lebanon
621
The Gilt Drawing Room
629
The Boudoir . . . . . .
631
ST. MARY'S CHURCH:
From Church Street . .
1996
Interior of Nave
3283
Interior of the Chancel
1997
Crypt and Ducking Stool
3284
The Beauchamp Chapel,
Interior, looking East . .
1998
LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL:
The West Gate
2938
The Courtvard . .
2939
The Principal Front . .
2002
The Master's House . .
2U03
The East Gate
3940
St. Mary's Church and Town,
from Guy's Tower
1994
The Castle Mill on the Avon . .
2004
Emscote Church, from the
South-East
2005
Emscote Church, Interior ol
Chancel
2006
/^/tu/rc^L^ej^pK
DA (o^O
GUY'S CLIFFE :
From the Mill 2949
From the River . . . . 2950
The Avenue 1969
Interior of the Chrtpel .. 1971
The Mill, from the Eoad ..1972
Gny's Well 635
Guy's Cave 636
KENILWORTH.
THE CASTLE :
From the Entraiipe . .
.. 2955
From the West..
.. 2024
From the Bridge
.. 2o25
From the South-East..
.. 2026
From the Echo Field. .
.. 2027
From the Road . .
.. 2028
Lancaster Buildings and Banquet
Hall .. ..
.. 2030
Leicester's Buildings, and C
aesar's
Tower . .
.. 2021
Interior of the Banquet Hall 2034
Mervyn'^s Bower . . . . 3287
Entrance to the Great Hall.. 32b6
Stoneleigh Abbey, the Principal
Front, from the Garden 2039
COVENTRY.
The Church . .
Interior, looking East
.. 2041
.. 2042
)LY TRINITY CHURCH:
From the South-East. . . . 2043
From the Tower of St.
Michael's .. .. 2044
Interior, looking East . . 2045
Interior, looking West . . 2046
TheReredos 2047
ST. JOHN'S CHURCH :
From the South-East..
Interior, looking East
View from the Green . .
The Grey Friars Hospital
2048
2049
2040
663
(2^
t
STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE:
From the East 2907
From the West 2908
The Museum 2910
The House Place, No. 1 . . 2911
The Room in which the Poet
was Born 2063
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH :
The South Side 2062
Interior of the Chancel . . 2056
Shakespeare's Moniiment . . 2057
Inscriptions on the Tombs of
the Shakespeare family 2058
Avenue and North Porch . . 2059
Church and River, from Memorial,
No. 1 2886
The Memorial, from the River 2900
The Memorial Library . . 2904
Washington Irving's Parlour,
with Arm-Chair, Clock
and Poker 2917
The Grammar School' and
Street 2064
The Memorial Statue . . . . 3055
The Stratford Picture of Shakes-
peare, from the Original
Picture .. .... 2G70
ANN HATHAWAY' S COTTAGE:
From the Brook, at Shottery. . 2921
Interior 2922
The Bedstead 2923
The Cottage 2u67
Mary
Arden's Cottage, at
Wilmcote 3295
Charlecote, from the River . . 2924
Hampton Lucy Church, from the
Nnrth-East
Ha'Tiptou Lucy Church, Interior,
looking East
Sherbourne Church, from the
North-West
Sherbourne Church, Interior,
looking East
666
667
664
665
J^.
rxj (L^UHyX^O
L' X^l/j^rU
LARGE CABINETS, g'A
6%
WAEWICK.
THE CASTLE:
From the Bridge .. .. 627
The River Front . . . . 629
View in the Outer Court . . 630
The Inner Court, from the
Mount 631
The Gatehouse and Guy's
Tower 632
The Principal Front, from the
Mount .. .. ..633
The Great Hall, looking West 6^4
The Great Hall, looking East 635
The State Dining Eoom .. 636
The Cedar Drawing Room . . 637
From the Avon . . . . . . 291
From the Outer Court . . 1173
Entrance and Road in the
Rock 2117
Gateway and Portcullis . . 2120
Gatehouse Tower, Bridge and
Moat 2119
ST. MAKY'S CHURCH:
Interior 2123
Crypt and Ducking Stool . . 2124
The Beauchamp Chapel, Interior,
looking East, No. 2 . . 638
LEICESTER'S HOSPITAL:
The West Gate 1164
The Courtyard 1165
The King's School, from the
River 1178
The East Gate 2121
The Castle Mill, on the Avon 639
GUY'S CLIFFE :
From the Mill 1181
From Backwater . . . • 1182
From the Road 641
The House, from the Avon . . 286
KENILWORTH.
THE CASTLE:
From the South . . . . 642
From the Bridge . . . . 643
From the Echo Field . • 644
View in the Inner Court . . 645
Leicester's Buildings and
Cgesar's Tower .. .. 646
The Banquet Hall . . . . 647
Mervyn's Bower . . .. .. 2127
COVENTRY.
ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH :
The Church . .
Interior, looking East . .
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH ;
From the South-East . .
Interior, looking Bast . .
649
650
651
652
View from the Green . . . . 648
STRATFORD-ON-AVON .
SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE:
From the East 1142
From the West .. .. .. 1143
The Museum . . . . . . 1145
The Room in which the Poet
was born . . . . 661
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH:
The Avenue 1136
From the Avon . . .. .. 1126
From the Island . . . . 1692
The South Front . . . . 654
Interior of the Chancel . . 657
The Memorial, from the River. . 1139
Washington Irving's Parlour,
with Arm-Chair, Clock
and Poker 1151
The Church and Lock No. 2 . . 1132
The House Place 1146
The Stratford Portrait of
Shakespeare, from the
Original Picture . . 664
Mary Arden's Cottage, at
Wilmcote 2135
Charlecote, from the River .. 1155
ANN HATHA WAY'S COTTAGE:
The Cottage 1152
Interior 1154
SMALL CABINETS, 4^^
LEAMINGTON.
The Parade and Eegent Hotel 226
The Parade, looking up the
Street 227
View in the Jephson Gardens 228
The Fountain in the Jephson
Gardens .. .. ..229
The Parish Church, from the
Jephson Gardens . . 230
The Parish Church, the South
Front 231
The Parish Church, Interior,
looking East .. .. 232
The Holly Walk and Avenue 233
View on the River Walk . . 234
St. Paul's Church, Interior,
looking East .. ., 235
Old Milverton Church
.. 236
WAKWICK.
THE CASTLE:
From the Bridge . . . . 1173
From the Park 202
The River Front . . . . 203
View in the Outer Court . . 204
The Inner Court, from the
Mount .. .. .. 205
The Gatehouse and Guy's
Tower 206
Entrance Porch and Caesar's
Tower 207
The Principal Front, from the
Mount 208
The Great Hall, looking West 209
The Great Hall, looking East 210
The State Dining Room .. 211
The Red Drawing Room . . 212
Cedar Drawing Room, looking
West 213
Cedar Drawing Room, looking
East 214
The Green Drawing Room . . 215
The Warwick Vase . . . . 216
ST. MARY'S CHURCH:
The Church and Church Street 218
Interior of the Beauchamp
Chapel 219
lEICESTER'S HOSPITAL:
TheWestgate 1171
The Master's House . . . . 222
The Courtyard 1172
St. Mary's Church and Town from
Guy's Tower .. ..217
The Castle Mill, on the Avon „ . 223
Emscote Church, from the South-
East 224
Emscote Church, Interior, looking
East 225
GUY'S CLIPFE:
From the River 11 75
Tne Avenue, from the Road . . 198
Guy's Mill, from the Road . . 199
KENILWORTH.
THE CASTLE:
From the Bridge .. ..1178
View from Abbey Hill. . . . 237
From the South 238
From the Echo Field .. .. 241
From the Road 242
View in the Inner Court . . 243
Leicester's Buildings and
Cesar's Tower . . . . 244
Leicester's Buildings and
Lancaster Buildings .. 245
Lancaster Buildings and
Banquet Hall . . . . 246
The Banquet Hall . . . . 247
Interior of Banquet Hall . . 248
Caesar's Tower 249
Stoneleigh Abbey, from the
River Bank . .,252
Stoneleigh Abbey, the Principal
Front, from the Garden 253
COVENTRY.
ST. MICHAEL'S CHURCH:
The Church 255
Interior, looking East .. .. 256
HOLY TUnriTY CHURCH :
From the Sonth-East
From Tower of St. Michael'
Interior, looking East
Interior, looking West
The Rereclos . .
ST. JOHN'S CHURCH:
From the South-East
Interior, looking East
257
258
259
260
261
262
263
264
View from the Green
STEATFOED-ON-AVON.
SHAKESPEARE'S HOUSE:
From the West 1153
From the East 274
The Room in which Shakes-
peare was born . . . . 276
HOLY TRINITY CHURCH:
From the Memorial .. .. 1142
From the North- West . . . . 267
The Avenue and North Porch 269
Interior, looking East . . . . 270
Interior of Chancel .. .. 271
Shakespeare's Monument . . 272
Inscriptions on the Tombs of
the Shakespeare family 273
The Grammar School and
Street 277
The Guild Chapel and remains
of New Place .. .. 278
The Stratford Portrait of
Shakespeare, from the
Original Picture . . 282
Mary Arden's Cottage, at
Wilmcote 3295
AKS HATHAWAY'S COTTAGE :
The Cottage 1159
The Cottage, with Portrait of
■ Old Lady 3294
Interior 116.)
PHOTOGRAPHIC PICTURES
WARWICK CASTLE:
From the Bridge . . ... 182
From the Park 183
The River Front . . . . 184
Caesar's Tower, from the Park 185
The Castle Mill, on the Avon 186
12 '^ 9
Guy's Cliffe, from the Mill . . 187
Kenilworth Castle, from the
Bridge 188
The Stratford Portrait of Shakes-
peare, from the Original
Picture 189
Stratford Church, from the
River Bank . . . . 190
PANORAMICS, I I
7X
OF
Warwick Castle from the River,
By DAVID LAW. The Finest Etching ever issued, Price £1 lis. 6d.
A large stock of Etchings of the Neighbouphood-very cheap
COOKE'S GUIDE
TO
Warwick & Kenilworth Castles,
Guv's Cliffe, Stratford-on-Avon,
CIi.A-I2,XjECOTE, STOlsTEXiEIG-H -A-BBE^Z-,
And every place of interest in tJu Neighbourhood,
ELEGANTLY BOUND IN CLOTH,
With 10 Steel Engravings, and about 200 Wood Engravings,
THREE SHILLINGS & SIXPENCE. CONDENSED EDITION ONE SHILLING.
IN SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY.
A complete Guide, with an account of the Poefs Life,
BY SAMUEL NEIL,
FULL OF ILLUSTRATIONS, ONE SHILLING.
The Home of Shakespeare,
BY F. W. FAIRHOLT,
AND INTRODUCTION BY J. HALLIWELL-PHILLIPPS,
With Illustrations, Sixpence.
William Shakespeare As He Lived
A most interesting Novel, founded on the Poet's Life.
TWO SHILLINGS.
A FULL ACCOUNT OF
The siege of KENILWORTH
And the Military Architecture of Warwick and
Kenilworth Castles. 6d.
HENRY T. COOKE AND SON,
9, KIGR STREET, WARWICK.
HISTORY OF
GUY, BAEL OF WARWICK.
i^
The unabridged edition from the old copy in
Warwick Castle. One Shilling.
Sir Walter Scott's Novel of 'KENILWORTH.'
Sixpence.
THE LAST OF THE BARONS!
^Nevil, the King Maker J,
By Lord Lytton. Sixpence.
THE WARWIOKSHIRE AVON,
By A. T. Quilter-Couch,
WITH illustrations BY ALFRED PARSONS,
12s. 6d.
"A LOVELY BOOK."
A Book of Fifteen Permanent
PHOTOGRAPHS
OF WARWICK, &o. One Shillino.
HENRY T. GOOKE Z? SON,
Publishers of Guides and Photographs,
9, ma-H STIZ-EEOT, •W^TLAATIGK.
Guide to Warwick
With its Castle
AND Surroundings
WARWICK •
HENEY T, COOKE AND SON, PUBLISHERS
OF Guides and Photographs, 9, High Street,
WAEWICK.
We would not detain our readers by adverting to
the importance (at best conjectural) sought to be con-
ferred on Warwick by antiquity. Some state that a
fortress was erected by P. Ostorius Scapula, A.D. 50;
others that it was the Praesidum Romanorum, and that
a cohort of Dalmatian horse was placed here under the
command of Dux Romanorum. Certain it is that, after
the destruction of the town by the Danes, it w^as rebuilt,
and taken under the especial protection of Ethelfleda,
the spirited and accomplished daughter of Alfred the
great. This princess, who married Ethelred, Earl of
Mercia, laid the foundation of the Castle in the year 915.
In 1016, during a successful incursion of the Danes under
Canute, the fortifications of the Castle and town were
nearly demolished. They, however, quickly arose from
their ruins ; and, at the time of the Conquest, Warwick
is mentioned in the Domesday Book as a Borough
containing '216 houses, and was evidently regarded as a
place of some importance, as orders were given to
repair and fortify the town and castle of Warwick.
This was carried into effect by surrounding the town
with a strong wall and ditch, and by enlarging the
castle.
ii^wniiw
EARLS OF WAEWICK.
Eous, the Warwickshire antiquary gravely assures
us that Warwick hath had its Earls ever since the reign
of the renowned King Arthur, w^hen Arthgal or Artigalth
first enjoyed the honour, and furnishes us with a list of
the succeeding Earls from ancient British chronicles,
and in this he is partly followed by Dugdale. We do
not consider it necessary to give an account of the
various Saxon Earls, but it would be unpardonable to
avoid mention of the redoubtable Guy, who, we are
told, married Felicia, daughter and heiress of Eohand,
a great warrior in the time of Alfred, and in her right
became Earl of Warwick.
This renowned champion is said to have been the son
of Siw^ard, Baron of Wallingford, and according to belief
his height exceeded nine feet. Among other instances
of his prowess, it is related that he slew a Saracen giant
in single combat ; killed a wild boar, an enormous dun
cow, and even a green dragon.''' Guy at last retired to
Guy's Cliffe, near Warwick, where he lived the life of a
hermit, till his death in 929. t
* A reprint, in English, of the famous and curious old French
book in the library of Warwick Castle, of the adventures of Guy,
Earl of Warwick, may be had of the Publishers of this book.
Price Is.
f For the account of a curious inscription lately discovered in
Guy's Cave, and said by experts to have been engraved by Guy
himself, see the large edition ot this Guide.
EAELS OF WAEWICK. 7
At the time of the Conquest, Turchil (descended
from the famous Guy) was Earl ; but although a noble-
man of vast power, he gave no assistance to Harold,
in opposition to Duke William, for which reason he was
allowed quiet possession of his vast estates, and was
even employed to enlarge and fortify the castle and
town, but he was soon after deprived of his earldom.
The town having been thus fortified by order of the
Conqueror with ditch and gates and the castle repaired
and enlarged, which before consisted of little more
than the dungeon, bailt by order of Ethelfleda upon the
artificial mound of earth near the river side ; the custody
of this strong place was committed by the King to
Henry de Newburgh, whom he advanced to the rank and
dignity of Earl of Warwick, and bestowed on him the
castle, the manor of Warwick, and the royalty of the
borough. Henry de Newbukgh, the first Earl of
Warwick, who took his name from the castle of
Newburgh, in Normandy, attended the Conqueror to
England, was one of those who effected the reconciliation
between William I. and his son Robert, and was the
chief instrument in raising Henry, the King's youngest;
son, to the throne, on the death of William Rufus,
He began making Wedgnock Park, near Warwick, in
imitation of Woodstock Park, made just before by
Henry I. and which was the first land emparked in
England, He died in 1123, was buried in the abbey of
Preux, in Normandy, and succeeded by his son Roger
DE Newburgh, who was a witness to King Stephen's
laws, and conquered Gowerland in Wales. He founded
several religious houses in Warwick, and was accounted
8 EARLS OF WARWICK.
a pious man. He married the daughter of William
Earl of Warren (who, on the arrival of Henry, Duke of
Normandy, afterwards Henry II., turned out King
Stephen's soldiers who then manned the garrison, and
delivered it up to Henry), and dying, was succeeded by
his son, William de Newburgh. This Earl appears to
have lived in regal splendour ; he founded two hospitals
in Warwick, and built a new church for the Templars
there. He died in the Holy Land, 1184, and was
succeeded by his brother, Walleran de Newburgh, of
whom history mentions little. He died 1205. Henry
DE Newburgh was a minor when he succeeded his father
and was committed to the care of Thomas Bassett, of
Heddington, near Oxford. This Earl strictly adhered
to King John in all his wars with the barons, notwith-
standing that monarch had seized on the seigniory of
Gower, in Wales, during the Earl's minority, and
bestowed it on William de Braose. He died 1229, and
was succeeded by his son, Thomas de Newburgh, who
had not full possession of the earldom until four years
after the death of his father. This Earl married the
daughter of William Longespe, Earl of Salisbury, son
of Henry II., and died without issue. Margery de
Newburgh, heiress to the earldom, was married first to
John Mareschal, of the family of the Earls of Pembroke,
and secondly, by the special appointment of Henry III.,
to John de Plessetis, who, in right of his wife, took
upon him the title of Earl of Warwick, in 1247, and in
the following year the King afforded him the title of
Comes Warwici, which from that time he constantly
used. At the decease of his countess, without children,
EARLS OF WARWICK. 9
the inheritance reverted to her aunt Alice, daughter of
Walleran, who had been married to Wilham Mauduit,
Baron of Hanslape, by whom she left a son and heir,
William Mauduit, who on the death of John de Plessetis
became Earl of Warwick. In the war between Henry
III. and the Barons, he was a firm adherent of the King,
and was unfortunately surprised in his castle at War-
wick, by John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth, on the
part of the Barons, when the walls of the castle were
demolished from tower to tower, the Earl and his
Countess taken prisoners to Kenilworth, and obliged to
pay 1900 marks for his ransom. He died without issue,
and left Isabel, his sister, married to William de Beau-
champ, sole heiress to his title and estates. William
DE Beauchamp, heir of the noble family of the Beau-
champs (which at the Conquest was considered one of
the principal families in Normandy, and who, coming
over with the Conqueror, had for their services, and by
intermarriage, obtained immense possessions and privi-
leges in England), became heir to the Earldom in right
of his wife, but she having entered a nunnery, they never
assumed the title; he died in 1269, leaving his eldest
son, William de Beauchamp, to succeed him. This
Earl enjoyed the title in right of his mother, during his
father's lifetime, as appears from his father's will. His
services were almost continually employed by the Crown
in Scotland and Wales, and he was one of the Governors
of Prince Edward, then a minor, during the time Edward
I. was employed in the Netherlands. He died in 1298,
and was succeeded by his eldest son, Guy de Beau-
champ, who the same year, attended the King in Scot-
B
10 EARLS OF WARWICK.
land, and for his valour in the battle of Falkirk, received
all the castles of Geoffrey de Mowbray, lying in that
kingdom, except the lordship of Okeford, and all the
lands of John de Strivelin. He served Edward I. several
years in this country, for which he was rewarded with
Bernard Castle, together with the manor of Middleton
and its chases, and the manor of Gainsford, with other
lands belonging to John de Baliol, then the King's
enemy. He was one of the noblemen who seized Piers
Gaveston, the haughty favourite of Edward IT., whom
he conveyed to Warwick Castle, and in conjunction with
three other Earls, to Blacklow Hill, near Warwick,
where they beheaded him. Earl Guy long entertained
an invincible hatred against Gaveston, for having fixed
on him the insulting epithet of ' ' The Black Hound of
Arden." He died at Warwick Castle, 1315, as most
thought by poison, and was succeeded by Thomas de
Beauchamp, who being scarcely two years old at the
time of his father's death, was committed to the custody
of Hugh le Despencer, but after the ruin of that
favourite, in the beginning of the next reign, the custody
was obtained by Eoger Lord Mortimer. At the age of
17, by special favour, the King received his homage,
and before he was twenty, was made Governor of
Guernsey and the islands adjacent. He was one of
the marshals of the King's army in France, and one of
the chief commanders who, under the Black Prince, led
the van of the English army at Cressy. At Poictiers
he fought so gallantly that his hand was severely galled
with plying his sword and battle axe ; he afterwards
made a progress into the east, warring against the
EARLS OP WAEWICK. 11
infidels. He rebuilt the walls of Warwick Castle,
founded the choir of St. Mary's, and made the town
toll-free. 43 Edward III., hearing that the English
army, under the Duke of Lancaster, lay perishing with
famine and pestilence in their camp, and yet refused to
fight the French, who pressed them close, old as he
then was, he hastily collected some choice troops, and
sailed for Calais, where his bare appearance dispersed
the French, whom he pursued in their retreat. This
truly great man was seized with the pestilence in
Calais, and died 1370, 'aged 63. His body was brought
over and buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's,
at Warwick. Thomas Beauchamp, second son of the
last Earl, succeeded to the earldom in consequence of
his brother's death. He was chosen Governor to Eichard
II. , and in concert with the Duke of Gloucester (whose
life the King sought), constrained the King to call a
Parliament, in which laws were enacted for the better
government of the kingdom. In two years after, the
Earl was deprived of his offices, and dismissed the court,
when he retired to Warwick, built the tower now called
Guy's Tower (costing £395 5s. 2d.), and finished the
body of St. Mary's Church, 1394. Though in retirement
he was still an object of jealousy to his enemies :
being invited to a feast by the King, he came in an
unguarded manner, was seized as a prisoner, and con-
demned to lose his head for having been in arms against
the King. This sentence was remitted, however, but he
was banished for life, and his lands granted to Thomas
Holland, Earl of Kent. In the same year he was
brought back and confined in the Tower ; but at the
12 EARLS OF WARWICK.
revolution he was reinstated in his rights. He died
1401, and was succeeded by his son, Eichard de Beau-
champ, who had for his godfather Eichard II,, and was
one of the most considerable persons in this kingdom in
the 15th century. At the coronation of Henry IV., he
was made a Knight of the Bath when only nineteen
years of age, and Knight of the Garter at twenty-three.
In the next year he marched with the forces to suppress
the rebellion of Owen Glendowr, whose standard he took
in open battle. At the coronation of Henry V. he was
constituted Lord High Steward ; 1415 Captain of Calais
and Governor of the Marches of Picardy ; 1417 created
Earl of Albermarle. He was appointed by Henry V, to
the tutelage of his son, then an infant ; and called from
France by Parliament, after the death of Henry V., to
take upon him the government of the young King.
14 Henry VI. he was appointed Eegent of France, and
Lieutenant-General of the King's forces in that realm
and the Duchy of Normandy. He died in the Castle of
Eoan, 1439, and his body brought over to England, and
laid in a chest of stone before the altar of St. Mary's, at
Warwick, until a chapel and tomb (the most costly and
beautiful in the kingdom, Henry VII. at Westminster
excepted), adjoining St. Mary's, at Warwick, could be
finished, wherein he was then laid with great solemnity.
Henry de Beauchamp succeeded his father when little
more than 14 years of age ; even then he had for some
time been married to the daughter of Eichard Nevil,
Earl of Salisbury. When not yet 19 years of age he
tendered his services to Henry VI. in defence of the
Duchy of Aquitain, for which the King created him
EARLS OF WARWICK, 13
Premier Earl of England; and, within three days,
advanced him to the rank of Duke of Warwick, with
precedence next to the Duke of Norfolk. After this the
Duke had a grant in reversion of the Islands of Guernsey,
Jersey, Sarke, Erme, and Alderney, for the yearly tribute
of a rose ; and the King further to express his affection
declared him King of the Isle of Wight, and placed the
crown on the Duke's head with his own hands. He
survived these mighty honours but a short time, dying
in 14:4:5, at the age of 22. He had an only child Anne,
who died before she attained the age of six years,
leaving her aunt Anne, sister to Henry, Duke of
Warwick, heiress to the Earldom.
EiCHARD Nevil now assumed the title of Earl of
Warwick, in right of his wife, Anne. This Earl so well
known in English history by the title of "The King-
Maker," finding himself of consequence enough to hold
the balance between the families of York and Lancaster,
rendered England during the reign of his power, a scene of
bloodshed and confusion ; and made or unmade kings of
this or that house as best suited his passions, pleasures,
or interests. His life was passed in wars and broils,
destructive to his family and country, and he was slain
in the battle of Barnet, 1471, which battle he fought
against Edward IV., endeavouring to replace Henry VI.
on that throne from which, a few years before, he had
hurled him. He left two daughters : Isabel, married
to George, Duke of Clarence ; and Anne, married to
Edward, Prince of Wales, son to Henry VI., by
whom she had no issue, and afterwards to Eichard,
14 EARLS OF WARWICK.
Duke of Gloucester (afterwards Eichard III.), who
killed the prince, her first husband, in cold blood
after the battle of Tewkesbury, and, when king,
poisoned her, to secure the throne by marrying his
brother's daughter,
George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con-
sideration of his marriage with Isabel, was by his brother,
Edward IV., created Earl of Warwick and Salisbury.
He began to beautify and increase the Castle, and pro-
jected many and important improvements, both in the
castle and town, but falling under the suspicion of his
brother, he was imprisoned in the Tower of London,
attainted of high treason before Parliament, and drowned
in a butt of Malmsey wine, his brother, the Duke of
Gloucester, assisting thereat. He had issue two sons,
the eldest, Edward, succeeding to the earldom.
In 3 Henry VII. an Act was passed recalling the
Countess Anne, widow of Richard Nevil, and restoring
her to the inheritance of her family'; but this was a
refinement of cruelty, for shortly after obtaining posses-
sion, she was forced to transfer to the king, by special
deed, the immense possessions of the family, amounting
at that time to 114 lordships, and the islands of Jersey,
Guernsey, Sarke and Aldemey. After the death of this
lady, Edward Plantagenet succeeded to the earldom,
but an unhappy fortune pursued him from a child : he
was confined by Richard III. in the castle of Sheriff-
Hutton until the battle of Bosworth Field, when Henry
VII. caused him to be removed to the Tower of London,
and confined more closely than ever, although his only
EARLS OF WARWICK. 15
crime was that of being the only Plantagenet living.
He was at the age of twenty-five, arraigned for high
treason, and by a promise of mercy prevailed upon to
acknowledge himself guilty of entering into conspiracy
with Perkin Warbeck ; this sealed his fate : he was con-
victed on his own confession, and beheaded on Tower
Hill, 1499, and to prevent the claim of any who might
be his heirs an attainder was passed against him.
The title now lay dormant for a period of 48 years,
when in 1547 it was revived in favour of John Dudley,
Viscount Lisle, who was descended from Eichard Beau-
champ, Earl of Warwick. Feb. 16, 1 Edward VI., by
letters patent, he had the dignity of Earl of Warwick
conferred upon him, together with the castle, Wedgnock
Park, the manor of Warwick, &c. ; he was made Lord
High Chamberlain for life ; elected one of the Knights
of the Garter; 4 Edward VI. made General Warden of
the North, and 6th year of that King's reign raised to
the dignity of Duke of Northumberland. He was
attainted in the first Parliament of Queen Mary for high
treason, in attempting to place Lady Jane Grey, his
daughter-in-law, on the throne, and was beheaded on
Tower Hill, 1553. Ambrose Dudley, third son of the
last Earl having obtained a reversion of the attainder,
was, on Christmas Day, 1557, created Viscount Lisle,
and two days after, by a new creation, Earl of Warwick.
He was Master of the Ordnance, Lieutenant-General of
Normandy, Chief Butler of England, Knight of the
Garter, and Privy Counsellor. He married three wives,
but dying without issue 1589, the title became again
16 EAELS OF WARWICK.
extinct, and the inheritance reverted once more to the
crown, but was renewed in 1618 in favour of Eobert
Lord Eich. This Earl not being descended from the
old family, never held the estates nor did he long enjoy
his honours, dying about eight months after his eleva-
tion, and being succeeded by his eldest son, Egbert
Eich, who was Lord High Admiral of England for the
Long Parliament. He was a man of pleasing conversa-
tion and fascinating manners, and enjoyed the confidence
of Cromwell more than any other man. In the negotia-
tion with the king in 1645, one of the conditions proposed
by the Parliament was the elevation of this Earl to a
Dukedom. He died in 1658, and was succeeded by his
son Egbert Eich, who survived his father but one year ;
his only son, Eobert, married Francis, youngest daughter
of the Protector Cromwell, but died without issue in his
father's lifetime. Charles, brother to the above, now
succeeded to the title, but his only son dying during the
father's lifetime, the earldom was united with that of
Holland, by the succession to the title of Egbert Eich,
Earl of Holland. He died in 1675, and the title
descended in succession to Edward Eich, who died in
1701; Edward Henry Eich, who died in 1721; and
Edward Eich, who died 1759, without male issue, and
the title became a third time extinct.
Fulke Greville, who was born 1554, and received
his juvenile education with the great Sir Philip Sidney,
his cousin, at the school of Shrewsbury, bought up claims
on the manor of Wedgnock, which were granted in
plenitas by Queen Elizabeth. In James II. he obtained
EARLS OF WARWICK. 17
a grant of Warwick Castle, which was then in a ruinous
state (the stronger parts being used as a county gaol),
and at an expense of £20,000, restored it ; he also pur-
chased and planted the Temple grounds on the left bank
of the river, and 18 James I. he was advanced to the
peerage as Lord Brooke. A man of letters himself, he
sought out and patronized that merit in others. This
great and good man was stabbed by his servant in his
bedroom, and died of his wounds, September 30, 1628 :
he was buried in St. Mary's Church, Warwick. Dying
without issue, he was succeeded by his first cousin's son,
EoBERT Greville, who married a daughter of Francis,
Earl of Bedford. He was one of the first who openly
exclaimed against the measures adopted by the Court
of Charles I., and taking up arms against that monarch,
was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the counties of
Warwick and Stafford. The Castle of Warwick being
besieged by the Eoyalists, under the Earl of Northamp-
ton, Lord Brooke hastened from London with reinforce-
ments, and raised the siege, to the joy of Sir E. Pieto,
who, with a small garrisoQ, and poor supply of artillery,
had held the post for the period of 10 days. After doing
great and important service at the battle of Edge-hill,
he was killed by a shot in the right eye, on March 1,
1643, while forcing the position held by Lord Chesterfield,
at Lichfield, and was succeeded by his son, Francis
Greville, who died unmarried in the same year as his
father, and was succeeded by his brother Robert
Greville. This Lord Brooke was instrumental in
effecting the restoration of Charles 11. ; and was one of
the six lords sent over to Holland, with the humble
c
18 EARLS OF WARWICK.
invitation of Parliament, that his Majesty would return
and take the government of the kingdom into his hands.
He had six sons, all of whom died young, and he, at
his death in 1676, was succeeded by his brother, Fulke
Greville, who held the title until 1710, when he was
succeeded by his son, William Greville . At his death
in 1727, Francis Greville, his son succeeded to the
title, and in July, 1746, was raised to the dignity of an
Earl by the title of Earl Brooke, of Warwick Castle ; in
1753, he was made a Knight of the Thistle ; in November
1759, created Earl of Warwick, and obtained a special
grant, April, 2, 1760, for bearing the crest of the ancient
earls of that name, namely a bear erect, argent, muzzled
gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. He died
1775, and was succeeded by his son George Greville.
To this nobleman the town is indebted for some of its
most valuable improvements. He erected the bridge
over the Avon, opened the approaches to the town,
formed the present rocky road to the Castle, enlarged
the park, and surrounded the Castle with its spacious
lawns and luxurious shnibs. He died in 1816, and was
succeeded by his son, Henry Richard Greville. This
nobleman, who was Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotu-
lorum of the County of Warwick, and Colonel of the
Warwick Militia, married the relict of the fifth Lord
Monson, and dying in 1853, was succeeded by the present
Earl, George Guy Greville, who was born March 28,
1818, and married, February 18, 1852, the Lady Anne
Charteris, second daughter of the Earl of Wemyss, and
has issue four sons and one daughter.
WARWICK CASTLE
The present approach to the Castle commences with
a recently-erected embattled gateway, called the Porter's
Lodge, passing through which the visitor enliers a fine
broad road, deeply cut through the solid rock ; the ample
branches of foliage forming a canopy above, while beneath
the moss and ivy, creeping in fertile wildness, form a
picture at once romantic and pleasing. Proceeding about
100 yards, a sudden turn in the road brings the visitor
to the outer court (formerly a vineyard, and where, so far
back as the time of Henry IV., the rich clusters of grapes
are said to have come to considerable perfection) : where
the stupendous line of fortifications, with the " cloud
cap't towers," breaks suddenly on the sight in all its
bold magnificence, seeming, firmly joined as it is to its
rocky foundation, to bid defiance to the all-subduing
power of time. On the right is the fine polygon tower,
dedicated to Earl Guy, having walls ten feet thick, and
a base of thirty feet in diameter, and rising to a height
of 128 feet. On the left is the venerable Cassar's Tower,
said to be coeval with the Norman Conquest ; and
although it has braved the ravages of time, and the
20 WARWICK CASTLE.
depredations of man for nearly 800 years, still continues
as firm as the rock on which it is founded. It is con-
nected with Guy's Tower by a strong embattled wall,
in the centre of which is the ponderous arched gateway,
flanked by towers, and succeeded by a second gateway,
with towers and battlements rising far above the first.
These were formerly defended by two portcullises, one
of which still remains in use. Before the whole is a now
disused moat, with an arch thrown over at the gateway,
where formerly was the drawbridge.
Passing the double gateway, the visitor enters the
inner couf t, where a scene is presented to the view which
excites feelings of admiration. The spacious area of the
court is clothed by a carpet of rich green sward. On the
left stands the grand irregular castellated mansion of the
feudal barons of Warwick. Uninjured by time, it still
retains that bold, irregular outline so peculiar to the
ancient castellated style ; on the left is Caesar's tower :
in the front is the mount or keep, clothed from its base
to its summit with trees and shrubs. The top of the
mount is crowned with towers and battlements, in the
centre of which is a gateway closed by an iron grating,
the light breaking through which relieves the heaviness
of the battlements, and produces a charming effect. On
the right appear two unfinished towers, one of which is
the Bear Tower, begun by Kichard III. : and at the
extreme termination is the lofty and commanding Guy's
Tower, the whole range being joined by ramparts and
embattled walls of amazing thickness. Open flights of
steps and broad walks on the top of the walls form a
WAKWICK CASTLE. 21
means of communication throughout the whole of the
fortress. The scene is grand, and so perfect the fascina-
tion that it would be difficult to say what might be added
that would improve, or what might be taken away that
would not injure the effect of the whole.
INTERIOR.
On Advent Sunday, 1871, a fire broke out in the
Castle, which, before it was suppressed, consumed the
whole eastern portion, including the Great Hall, with its
priceless treasures. The pictures, library of books, and
some of the antiques in the private apartments were
fortunately preserved, but many unfortunately fell a prey
to the flames. The building has, however, undergone a
most judicious restoration at the hands of Mr. Salvin,
the eminent architect ; and many architectural features,
which were walled up or covered with plaster, are now
exposed to view. The armour, also, has been restored
under the judicious treatment of Mr. Syers, of London,
and is now arranged around the Great Hall.
Here are found a collection of complete suits of
armour, a fine suit of horse armour, specimens of two-
handed swords ; the armour belonging to Lord Brooke,
^ commander of the Parliamentarian army, who was
killed at the siege of Lichfield ; an enormous arquebuse,
taken from a French ship of war; and an excellent
collection of iron head-pieces of different nations and
reigns.
22 WARWICK CASTLE.
The relics of that hero of antiquity Guy, Earl of
Warwick, have been removed to the Great Hall from the
Porter's Lodge, where they were formerly kept. The
sword (the custody of which was, in the reign of Henry
VIII., committed to William Hoggeson, yeoman of the
buttery, with a salary of 2d. per day), shield, helmet,
breastplate, walking staff, aud tilting pole, all of enor-
mous size, the horse armour, on which is an inscription
nearly obliterated, is evidently of later date. A large
pot, called "Guy's porridge pot," his flesh fork, and his
lady's stirrups. Although the armour may not have a
right to the antiquity claimed for it, yet, says Gilpin,
" they are no improper appendages to the place, as they
give the imagination a kind of tinge, which throws an
agreeable romantic colour on all the vestiges of this
venerable pile."
From the Great Hall, a view is obtained, at a single
glance, of the grand suite of state rooms on the one side,
and domestic apartments on the other, extending in a
straight line 333 feet, terminated at the western ex-
tremity by a window. From the Great Hall is also seen
with good effect, hanging at the end of the chapel pas-
sage, the celebrated painting, by Vandyck, of Charles I.
This is a splendid figure, and at the distance nearly
resembles life ; it was given by Prince Charles of Lorraine
to Lord Waldegrave, and was purchased by the father
of the late Earl of Warwick. Sir Joshua Reynolds is
said to have offered 500 guineas for it.
The prospect from the south windows is one of the
most delightful the country can boast ; the soft classic
Avon (a branch from which, dividing here, and entering
WARWICK CASTLE. 23
the main stream a distance below, forms before the
window a fertile little island), falling with a " soothing
somid " over a cascade 100 feet below, laves the fomida-
tion of the Castle, and continues its meandering way to
the right through the extensive and highly cultivated
park — sheep and cattle grazing in peaceful security on
its banks — the undulating foliage of forest trees of every
hue, intermingling with the stately cedar spreading its
curiously-feathered branches — and the verdant lawns,
where nature and art appear to have expended their
treasures — combine to form a landscape of surpassing
beauty.
The Red Drawing Room contains a magnificent
Venetian Mirror, in a quaint and rich frame; and
besides other objects of interest, the following
paintings : — Van Trump, A Dutch Burgomaster,
(commonly called Van Tromp), by Vandyck ; Thomas
Howard, Earl of Arundel, by Rubens (this magnificent
picture is considered by Sir Thomas Lawrence
the best in the collection) ; The Assumption of the
Virgin, by Raphael; Amhrosio, Marquis de Spinola,
by Rubens ; Wife of Snyder, by Vandyck ; over the fire-
place, a curious clock; on the mantelpiece, two
sacrificial vessels called Prafericula ; and an Urn of
bronze and antique. On a buhl table the Lion of St.
Maik, and some candelabra of chaste design in ormolu.
On the right a handsome cabinet of tortoiseshell and
ivory, formerly belonging to the Spinola family, and
bearing their arms. On the left a cabinet inlaid with
pearl, and supporting a valuable image in green basalt,
brought from Egypt. Between the windows is a
24 WARWICK CASTLE.
beautiful table of Pietra Commessa, which formerly
belonged to Marie Antoinette ; opposite to this are buhl
cabinets, containing some scarce and beautiful specimens
of Limousin enamel, examples of which, as well as
ancient bronzes, marbles, Etruscan vases, vessels of
crystal and Bohemian glass, &c., are arranged on various
tables and cabinets, in this and the other apartments.
The Cedar Drawing Eoom is a noble room, 47 feet
by 25. The furniture is antique : the mirrors and screens
very fine, and the marble chimney-piece (said to be the
only specimen of the kind in England) is exceedingly
beautiful. A Florentine table opposite the fire-place,
inlaid with lava of Vesuvius, supports a marble bust
from the Giustiniani Minerva, at Eome, flanked by two
Etruscan vases. A table of black and white antique
Egyptian marble stands at either end of the room ; the
one at the west end supporting an exquisite bust of
Proserpine, by Hiram Power, the sculptor of the Greek
Slave ; and one in metal of Charles I., supposed to have
been the model of one in marble, made by Bernini, for
Henrietta Maria. Etruscan vases of great value are
placed on old inlaid cabinets in various parts of the
room. In the centre of the room is an ancient table of
inlaid marble, brought from the Grimani Palace at
Venice. On either side of the fire-place are busts of the
late Earl of Warwick, by Nollekins, and the late Countess
of Warwick, by Bonelli. Over the mantel-piece is a
magnificent Venetian mirror. The following paintings
adorn the walls : — Henrietta Maria, Wife of Charles I.,
by Vandyck ; Charles I., by Vandyck, half-length ; Bohert
WARWICK CASTLE. 25
Bich, Earl of Warivick, by Old Stone; James Graham,
Marquis of Montrose, by Vandyck ; Duke of Newcastle,
Vandyck School ; The Princess de Santa Croce, by
Vandyck ; A Lady and her little Boy, supposed to be
two of the Brignola Family, by Vandyck. Over the
east and west doors, portraits of Tioo of the Beauties of
Charles II., by Lely.
The walls and ceiling of the Gilt (or Geeen)
Drawing Eoom are divided into panels, and superbly
gilt. On the mantel-piece are a bronze horse, lava
vases, &c. The paintings in this room comprise —
Portrait of a Warrior, by Moroni : Earl of Strafford, by
Vandyck; Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, by
Dobson ; Lord William Bussell ; Portrait of a Cavalier
General in Armour, by Vandyck ; A Lady, by Sir Peter
Lely ; Charles J., by a French painter; Earl of Strafford
when young, by Hanneman; Henrietta Maria, by a
French painter; Portrait of the Marqtds of Huntley,
school of Vandyck ; Bobert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, by
C. Jansen ; A fine portrait, by Adrian Hanneman ;
William, Lord Brooke, by Dahl ; Portrait of a Boy, by
Vandyck ; Portrait of a French Nobleman, by Vandyck ;
Lady Brooke, by Dahl ; Portrait of a Girl, by Dosso
Dossi ; Prince Bupert, by Vandyck ; Earl of Cambridge,
painter unknown ; over the doors — Three sons of Bobert,
Lord Brooke ; near the west door — St. John Baptising
our Saviour, painted on the root of amethyst. In this
room is also placed the celebrated painting by Eubens,
of Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Order of the Jesuits.
This picture was originally painted for the Jesuits'
D
26 WARWICK CASTLE.
College, at Antwerp, and belonged to that college until
the period of the French Eevolution : it is esteemed by
competent judges to be of superlative value. The left
hand is laid upon a volume, supported by a pedestal,
on which is inscribed: *'ad mai — orem dei gloriam
QVICVNQVE HVIC lESV CHRISI MITI^ NOMEN DEDERINT
DEI NOCTEQVE SVCCINTI LVMBOS ET TAM GRANDIS BITI
SOLVTIONEM iMPTi ESSE EBER ;" [sic] the right hand is
raised as if in the act of prayer ; the eyes lifted to a
burst of light in the midst of dark clouds : the counten-
ance fine and deeply marked by enthusiasm ; the action
dignified and natural : the right foot advanced, and so
admirably foreshortened, as to appear as if projecting
from the canvas ; the robes magnificent, and disposed
with easy grace. This wonderful picture is, without
doubt, the gem of the collection. In the centre of the
room, on a richly-carved and gilt stand, is the superb
table brought from the Grimani Palace, at Venice, by
the British Consul, Mr. Money, for the late Earl of
Warwick. It was well known as the " Grimani Table,"
being made expressly for that noble Venetian family,
eminent in the history of that State, having supplied the
Commonwealth with several Dukes, and the Church
with two Cardinals. The family arms are worked in the
corners with the precious and valuable stones with which
the surface is inlaid. This table is entirely of pietra
■ dura, and was universally considered one of the finest
in Italy. In this room is also a cinque-cento statue in
white marble, of the Faun Marsyas, and two Italian
marriage chests in wood, gilt and painted by some early
Italian artist, brought from Venice. On a brass-mounted
WARWICK CASTLE. 2<
Casket, near the west door, is a curious mask, said to
be of Socrates ; and on a buhl table, near the window,
a Venus modelled in wax, by John of Bologna. Several
specimens of buhl furniture, supporting ebony cases,
carved and mounted in silver, a fine mosaic Cabinet,
and other articles of vertu, are also scattered about the
room. Concealed behind the wainscot there is a secret
descending stairs.
The bed and furniture in the State Bed Eoom are
of red crimson velvet, and formerly belonged to Queen
Anne : a present from George III. to the Warwick
family. The walls are hung with finely preserved
tapestry, made at Brussels in 1604 ; the subject upon
them is supposed to be the Gardens at Versailles, as they
were at that time. A rich cabinet of inlaid marqueterie,
Japan bowls, Etruscan vases, &c., are placed in various
parts of the room. The chimney piece is of verd antique
and white marble, executed by Westmacott, and sup-
ports two black marble vases on its mantle, while above
is a full length portrait of Queen A?ine, in a rich brocade
dress, wearing the collar and jewel of the Order of the
Garter, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Over the west
door, portrait of Owe of the Thynne family , by Frederigo
Zucchero ; and over the east door, The Duke of Mon-
mouth, painter unknown. In the bay of the window
stands a leather chest, with the arms of Queen Anne,
and opposite the bed is the toilet table as prepared for
the use of her present Majesty during her visit to the
Earl of Warwick, bearing a collection of rare Venetian
glass, and two magnificent crystal flasks.
2b WAKWICK CASTLE.
The Boudoir is a lovely little room, forming the
western extremity of the suite of rooms. The prospects
from the windows are extremely fine, and the walls
studded with paintings. Amongst others may be named :
— Portrait of Henry VIII., by Hans Holbein; Barbara
Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, by Lely ; A Boar Hunt,
by Eubens ; A Duel Piece, by Hugtenburgh ; William
Russell, first Duke of Bedford ; and the first Duchess of
Bedford; Francis, second Earl of Bedford ; A Pietra, or
Dead Christ, by Lodovico Caracci ; St. Stephen, by
Lorenzo di Credi ; St. John, a companion to the above ;
a curious picture of A Saint, by Andrea del Sarto, and
a companion to the same ; portrait of One of the Beauties
of the Court of Charles II., by Lely ; Henry IV. of
France, by William Patoun ; Henry VIII., when a Boy,
by Vandyck; portrait of A Girl, said to be one of Robert,
Lord Brooke's children ; a beautiful little picture of St.
Sebastian, by Vandyck ; An old Woman eating Pottage,
by Gerhard Douw ; Mrs. Digby in the dress of a Lady
Abbess; Head of St. Jerome, by Eubens; Card Players,
by Teniers ; A Madomia and Child, by Barrochio ; One
of the Beauties of the Court of Charles II., by Lely;
Landscape, by Salvator Eosa, and Companion to the
same ; A sketch of the Four Evangelists, by Eubens, a
highly valuable picture ; Mary Boleyn, by Hans Holbein,
and Anne Boleyn, by the same artist. On a table is
placed a cinque-cento statue of the Faun Marsyas, from
the collection of the late Major-General Sir C. J. Greville,
K.C.B. In this room are also groups modelled in terra-
cotta by Pinelli, of Eome, bronze casts, buhl, ormolu,
and marqueterie tables and stands ; and also a beautiful
WAEWICK CASTLE. 29
cloch, with twelve curious and highly-finished enamels,
one to each hour, representing the twelve principal
events in the life of our Saviour ; they are of rare pink
enamel, set in silver, and the drawing of the figures is
graceful, elegant, and finished by some perfect master's
hand.
The effect of these apartments is considerably height-
ened by the harmony observed in the matchless collec-
tion of pure antique furniture throughout the whole
suite of state apartments. Superb cabinets, encoigneurs,
caskets, and tables of buhl and marqueterie, of the most
costly finish — splendid ormolu, crystal, china, and lava
cups, flasks, and vases — Etruscan vases — marble and
jnetra dura tables — bronzes and busts, displaying the
utmost efforts of art — costly Bijoutiers and rare antiques
are scattered through the room in rich profusion, yet
with exquisite taste — no innovation of the modern is
allowed to injure the effect of the ancient — all is costly
all is rare, yet all is harmonious.
From the Boudoir a door fitting the wainscot opens
into The Armoury Passage, which contains a rare
collection of curiosities of great value ; one of the finest
collections of ancient armour in the kingdom, as a
private collection we believe unique ; and a large collec-
tion of fossils and petrifactions, bronzes, busts, &c., far
too numerous even to attempt to catalogue. Suspended
round the walls are culviers, ancient cross-bows, battle-
axes, pikes, swords, daggers, muskets, arquebnses,
quivers, arrows, tomahawks, helmets, chain armour, &c. ;
here is also a portrait of our Saviour, on a gilt ground
30 WARWICK CASTLE.
after the impression of an emerald presented by the
Great Turk to Innocent VIII., for a token to redeem his
brother that was taken prisoner. And a gallery at the
further end contains a small suit of plate armour made
for the "Noble Impe," Eobert of Dudley, son of Eobert,
Earl of Leycester. The Billiaed Eoom has lately
been entirely refitted with carved table and furniture
en suite. In this passage also hangs a fine collection
of paintings.
From the Gilt Koom a door opens into a little apart-
ment called the Compass Eoom, the principal window
of which (of painted glass) was brought from Flanders
by the late Earl of Warwick. There are two tables,
the one of Sienna marble, the other of Scagliola ; close
to which is a truncated marble column of Brocatella
Africana. The paintings in this room are An Old Mans
Head, by Eubens ; Two pictures of Bears ; Scene from
the Merry Wives of Windsor, by Stoddart ; small Coast
Scene by W. Vander Velde; A Bacchanalian Group, by
Eubens ; A Saint ; St. Peter in Prison and St. Peter
released from Prison, by Peter Neef ; A Laughing Boy,
by Murillo ; Ecce Agnus Dei, by Tiepolo ; small Dutch
portrait of a Woman ; A Storm and Wreck, a very fine
picture, by W. Vander Velde (the younger) ; A Sea
Piece, Vander Velde ; portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte,
by David ; Head of an Old Man, by Eubens ; Landscape,
by Salvator Eosa; two small pictures of St. Paul light-
ing afire in the Island of Melita, and St. Paul shaking
off the Viper, by Eubens ; portrait of a Lady, Dutch
school ; Catherine, daughter of the Earl of Bedford ;
WARWICK CASTLE. 31
portraits of Maximilian I., and his Sister, by Lucas
Cranach. In the Chapel Passage hang Mother of
Buhens, by Eubens ; Don Scotius, by Abraham Jansen ;
Still Life, by Schaef ; portrait of the late Lady Warwick,
by Sir G. Hayter; and on a cabinet a magnificent bust
of the Black Brince. Here is also a fine carving in
wood, the Battle of the Amazons on the Bridge, after a
painting by Eubens ; portraits of Martin Byckaert and
Don Ferdinand de Toledo, the Duke of Alva, by
Vandyck; Gondomar ; A Nun, by Sir J. Eeynolds ;
Vandyck's picture of Charles L, which stands at the
end of the passage, has just been restored, when it was
discovered that a foot-and-a-half of canvas on the left
of the picture was turned in and had never been shewn,
on this piece are the quarterings of the Monarch, which
are now seen to full advantage.
The Chapel is entered by a small door, from the
last-named passage, but the principal entrance is from
the court-yard, where a flight of steps leads to the
vestibule, from which a pair of folding doors opens into
chapel. The altar-piece of oak, carved and surmounted
by a canopy ; the Gothic windows, filled with rich
painted glass, pour through the chapel a stream of "dim
religious light," rendering it a scene well calculated to
harmonise the mind, and cause the heart to join in those
devout prayers and pious exercises of our Church which
are here daily offered up to the throne of grace.
The Great Dining Eoom, built by Francis, Earl of
Warwick, is in architectural keeping with the other
parts of this venerable pile. This room was much
32 WARWICK CASTLE.
damaged by fire, but is restored to its original state.
The interior is painted and gilt in a rich but chaste
style ; large marble slabs, on elegant stands, are placed
as side tables. In this room are three busts of Parian
marble and antique, placed on pedestals of red Egyptian
granite and Sienna marble. The busts of Augustus and
Scipio Africanus are very fine. The head of Augustus
is as perfect as the day on which it was finished ; that
of Scipio highly interesting, and the mouth singularly
expressive of decision of character. This was found
near St. John of Lateran at Eome, and was restored
by the eminent Danish Sculptor, Thorwaldsen. In
this room are placed Frederick, Prince of Wales,
by Eichardson; Augusta, Princess of Wales, and an
Infant (George III.), by Phillips ; and Two Limis, by
Eubens ; a fine carved sideboard, with gilt figures
brought from Bergamo; also four gilt Italian figures
from Venice, and a crystal chandelier from Genoa.
The Beeakfast Eoom contains Joanna, Queen of
Naples, by Leonardo da Vinci ; The Doge's Palace at
Venice, by Canaletto ; Duchess of Parma, by Paulo
Veronese ; a Battle Piece, by H. Borgognone ; and a
fine collection of paintings of the Castle, by Canaletto ;
also a magnificent buhl clock ; two Portugese cabinets,
and a fine collection of red lustre ware, introduced by
the Moors into Spain.
In the Lobby adjoining the Breakfast Eoom, and
which is panelled with cedar, are : — picture of A School
Boy, by Sir J. Eeynolds, and Francis, Earl Brooke, by
the same painter.
WARWICK CASTLE. 33
The Private Apartments of the Castle are not
open for inspection. They have lately been thoroughly
remodelled, and in many cases almost entirely rebuilt.
They are ample and justly proportioned ; and although
not vieing in magnificence with the state apartments,
the comfort and convenience that pervades them excites
in the mind pleasing thoughts of quiet and retirement.
The Breakfast Eoom, Library and Private Eooms at
the east end of the castle have been restored, under
the superintendence of Mr. Salvin, the eminent
architect, of London, and they add much to the
beauty of the edifice and the comfort of the noble
family by whom they are occupied.
Situate about the armoury and state rooms are the
private rooms of the Earl and Countess of Warwick.
They contain many fine paintings, and a large collection
of family portraits. The Eooms have lately been fitted,
at a great expense, with old carved panelling, and other
ornaments, in the most exquisite taste. The Domestic
Offices occupy a range running under the whole suite of
state apartments ; nearly the whole of them are cut out
of the solid rock, under ground as viewed in connection
with the inner court, but raised on the south side some
sixty feet above the bed of the river. Here are seen to
perfection the stupendous works in architecture under-
taken by our forefathers. The whole range is supported
by enormous solid pillars from ten to twenty feet span,
from which spring the massive groined arches which
support the roof.
34 WARWICK CASTLE.
Between Caesar's Tower and the Clock Tower a new
room has lately been built to contain the Library of
Books relating to Warwickshire, which has been col-
lected by the present Earl. Here is placed the cele-
brated " Kenilworth Buffet," from the Great Exhibition
of 1851. This fine work of art was manufactured by
Cookes and Sons, of Warwick, from an oak tree which
was grown on the Kenilworth estate, near the edge of
the lake, and which from its apparent age, was doubtless
standing at the time of Queen Elizabeth's visit to the
Earl of Leycester. The centre panel portrays the entry
of Queen Elibabeth to Kenilworth Castle, and on either
side are recorded the date of the Queen's visit, 1575,
and the year of the Exhibition, 1851 ; — above are pro-
jections, supported by the Bear and Eagged Staff, while
the arms of Leycester surmount the v>hole. On the
spandrils, supported by water flowers are marine sub-
jects, taken from the pageant of 1575, viz : — a Triton
on a Mermaid, and Arion on the Dolphin. The panels,
on the doors are illustrations of some of the scenes from
Sir Walter Scott's novel of Kenilworth; that on the
left representing Queen Elizabeth's meeting with Amy
Eobsart in the grotto ; that on the right the interview
of Elizabeth with Leycester after the exposure of his
deceit. The figures at the four bases represent the great
men of the time ; Sidney, Ealeigh, Shakespeare, and
Drake : the Historian, the Warrior, the Poet, and
the Admiral of the Age. This splendid specimen of
local manufacture was presented to the present
Earl, on his marriage, by the town and county of
Warwick.
WAEWICK CASTLE. 35
Around the walls are hung a most valuable collection
of portraits of eminent persons who have been connected
with Warwickshire ; among them the beautiful portrait
of Shakesj^eare, supposed to be by Cornelius Jansen ; Sir
Philip Sidney ; Bobert Dudley , Earl of Ley cester ; Queen
Elizabeth, painted by her goldsmith, Guillim Stretes ;
Bobert, Lord Brooke, killed at the siege of Lichfield, by
Dobson ; Oliver Cromwell, by Walker ; a portrait of
Shakespeare, from Mr. Halliwell Phillipps' collection ;
and portrait of the Earl of Essex, by Zucchero.
Adjoining this room is a small conservatory.
EXTERIOR AND GROUNDS.
Cesar's Tower, which is not shown to visitors, has
beneath it a dark and dismal dungeon, which is entered
from the inner court by a long flight of stone steps ; here,
at various periods, prisoners have been confined, and
from stanchion holes in the wall it is evident they were
restrained far from the small loophole, which alone gave
light and ventilation to the place. Many instructive
and rude drawings may be traced on various parts of
the walls, but they are now nearly obliterated by damp.
The heart cannot but feel a pang while it traces the
operations of the poor wretches who have thus amused
themselves, and whiled away the day, when the sun
rose to gladden the earth, but excited no pleasure in
their bosoms, and its parting beams left them still in
36 WARWICK CASTLE.
their misery. The upper part, or guard rooms, are now
fitted as servants' chambers. The scene from the
summit borders on the subhme ; the views are extensive
in every direction and very fine ; while looking through
the machicolations between the tower and the battle-
ments, at the distance of nearly 150 feet the river pours
its stream along. The Clock and Gate Towees are
also fitted up as apartments for the attendants, and
many of them are hung with tapestry.
Guy's Tower contains five tiers of guard rooms and
thirteen rooms ; the second room is now used as a
depository for documents, &c., relating to the castle
estates ; the three upper ones are open, and afford
excellent resting places for visitors during their ascent.
The view from the summit, which is reached by 133
steps, is of the most varied description, and amply
repays the fatigue. In the distance are seen the spires
of Coventry, the castle of Kenil worth, Guy's Cliffe,
Blacklow Hill, Grove Park, the Shuckburgh and
Shropshire Hills, and the Saxon Tower on the Broad-
way Hills ; the fashionable town of Leamington ap-
pears almost at your feet, while village churches,
lifting their venerable towers through the embosoming
foliage, fill up the pleasing picture. In the topmost
guard room the visitor will be shown the thickness of
the walls, which are here upwards of ten feet ; and in
the room below are several curious inscriptions in raised
letters ; many others have been obliterated by the
mason's chisel, while removing the senseless writing of
WARWICK CASTLE. 37
impertinent persons. Descending from Guy's Tower,
the visitor passes to what is called, on an old plan of
the castle, The Bear Court. It occupied the space
between the bases of the two north towers, and was
nearly a regular parallelogram in shape. Passing on-
ward, through a portcullis in the north wall, over a
bridge thrown across the moat, and covered with ivy,
a broad gravelled walk (on the right of which are the
stables) conducts to the Greenhouse. This spacious
building of modern construction, was built for the
purpose of receiving the celebrated Antique Vase.
It has usually a good collection of plants and shrubs,
and from its front a beautiful landscape opens, admir-
ably filled with wood and water. The Vase is of white
marble, designed and executed in the purest Grecian
taste, and is one of the finest specimens of ancient
sculpture at present known — compared with the age of
which even the castle itself is but a thing of a day. It
was found at the bottom of a lake at Hadrian's Villa,
near Tivoli, by Sir William Hamilton, then Ambassador
at the Court of Naples, by whom it was presented to the
father of the late Earl of Warwick, conveyed to England
and placed in its present position. Its shape is circular,
and it is capable of holding 136 gallons. It has two
large handles, formed of interwoven vine branches, from
which the tendrils, leaves, and clustering grapes spread
round the upper margin. The middle of the body is
enfolded by the skin of the panther, with the head and
claws beautifully finished ; above are the heads of satyrs,
bound with wreaths of ivy, accompanied by the vine-
clad spear of Bacchus, and the crooked staff of the
38 WAEWICK CASTLE.
Augurs. It rests upon vine leaves that climb high up
its sides, and stands on a square marble pedestal, which
bears the following inscription : — •hoc pristine aetis
EOMAN^Q. MAGNIFICENTI^ MONUMENTUM RUDERIBUS
ViLLiE TIBURTINiE HADRIANO AUG. IN DELICIIS HABITS
EFFOSSUM RESTITUI CURAVIT EQUES GULIELMUS
HAMILTON A GEORGIO III MAG. BRIT. REGE AD SICIL. REGEM
FERDINANDUM IV. LEGATUS ; ET IN PATRIAM TRANS-
MISSUM PATRIO BONARUM ARTIUM GENIO DICAVIT. AN.
AC. N. CIO. DCCLXXIV.
Leaving the greenhouse, the visitor continues his
walk through a fine plantation of luxuriant trees and
shrubs, bounding the extensive lawn for half-a-mile, till
reaching the bank of the river, he emerges from the
** leafy covert," and the walk again opens on the lawn.
The river front of the castle, the mount and its towers,
the mill, the cascade, the ruined arches of the bridge,
the greenhouse, the tower of St. Mary's Church, the
whole expanse of verdant lawn, bounded by the " soft
flowing Avon," appear in rapid succession, forming a
panorama seldom equalled, never excelled. Passing a
pavilion, the visitor arrives at the foot of the castle, where
the stupendous pile, with its rocky basement, appears to
derive increasing interest from the development of its
vast bulk as it stands towering above the glassy stream.
Amid the ivy and lichens that creep up the ragged side
of the rock is a brass plate affixed to record the following
distressing event : A relative of Lord Bagot's while
engaged in rowing on the river near this spot was unfor-
tunately drowned, while a friend who accompanied him
WARWICK CASTLE. 39
was with difficulty saved. The following is the inscrip-
tion : — Juxta hanc ripam e cymba submersus fuit
Gaulterus Bagot, Jan. 10, A.D. 1800, ^t suae 22.
Oh ! crudelis Avon, Stygia infelicior unda
Suaviloquus posthac non tibi prosit Olor !
Merso, namque tuo violenti ingurgite, nato,
Haec verba inscripsit flens et amans Genitor.
Eeturning to the Hill Tower, the stranger pauses
to view the magnificent cedars of Lebanon, (which, it is
said, grow to a larger size in this park than in any other
part of the kingdom). Passing onwards, a circuitous
path leads to the top of the mount, the summit of which
is crowned by a grass plat, in the centre of which stood
an ancient Scotch fir, blown down during a tempestuous
night in the winter of 1843-44. This was the only tree
represented in Canaletto's view of the castle ; it stood
singly on the mount, outside the wall, and appears a
prominent object in his picture. An iron-grated gate
leads to what is called the northern tower. On this
artificial mount, thrown up by Ethelfleda, near one
thousand years ago, stood the ancient keep raised by
that spirited Princess to keep in awe the turbulent
spirits of her time.
TOWN OF WAEWICK.
The early as well as the modern history of the town
of Warwick is so woven up with the accounts of its
Earls that it would be here superfluous to reproduce it.
The town is clean and extremely healthy ; the houses
are generally well built and spacious. It has meeting
houses for the several bodies of Dissenters. For the
Quakers and Unitarians in High Street ; for the Inde-
pendents in Brook Street ; for the Wesleyan Methodists
in Market Street and at Emscote ; for the Eoman
Catholics in West Street ; and for the Baptists on the
Castle Hill.
THE CHURCHES.
Before describing the Churches at present remain-
ing in Warwick, it may be desirable briefly to notice
those which formerly existed in the town, and of which
the memories have almost perished. According to
Rous, Warwick was, in the time of the later Britons,
in the 6th century, a bishop's see. He states that St.
Dubritius, coming here, fixed his episcopal residence
on a site now included in the Castle walls, where he
built a Church and dedicated it to All Saints. Saint
Dubritius afterwards removed to Llandaff, where he
became bishop of that see, and from thence was conse-
crated the first Welsh Archbishop. The existence of a
Church here in the time of Edward the Confessor is
recognized by a charter granted by King Henry L, and
St, Peter's Chapel —The East Gate.
CHURCHES OF WARWICK. 41
by this charter was confirmed to it several pecuHar
customs and privileges, among others the fire and water
ordeal. The Church was, by Eoger de Newburgh, in
1123, incorporated with the church of St. Mary. St,
Helen's formerly stood on the site now occupied by the
Priory, and was swallowed up by the foundation of that
religious house, and from that time is always mentioned
conjointly with the church of St. Sepulchre. St.
Michael's was situated at the lower end of the Saltis-
ford; but in 41 Edwd. III. its revenues and population
had dwindled almost to nothing. The walls of the
Church are still standing, and the gables show the pitch
of the original roof ; the east wdndow, though blocked up,
has still its mouldings nearly perfect, and by the marks
of the mullions, yet visible, seems to be of the decorated
style of the 14th century. This cannot, therefore, be
the original building, as Earl Roger founded the Hos-
pital of St. Michael " neere the chappell " about the
beginning of King Stephen's time. The area of this
consecrated building is now used as a blacksmith's shop
and dwelling house, in the upper chamber of which a
portion of the old roof is preserved. St. John Baptist
formerly stood in the Market Place, and its foundation
is attributed by Rous to Caradoc, an ancient British
Prince. This Church was also transferred by Earl
Roger to St. Mary's. St. Peter's was originally
situated in the centre of the town, but had no dwelling
place, or place of sepulture belonging to it. In the reign
of Henry VI. it was pulled down, and the Chapel of St.
Peter built in its stead over the east gate of the town.
About the year 1800 this chapel and gateway under-
42 CHURCHES OF WARWICK.
went a most tasteless renovation and assumed its
present form. St. Lawrence was situated at the lower
end of the West Street, and was appropriated to the
Coll. Church of Our Lady, 22 Richd. II. Its exact site
was discovered in the autumn of 1837, when the road
was widened at the entrance to the town. It was near
the back gates of the Castle, on the spot now occupied
by the last house and garden on the south side of the
street. Above the west gate of the town was St. James's'
Chapel, which was also given by Roger, Earl of War-
wick to St. Mary's on making it collegiate. In 6 Eichd.
II. the advowson was bestowed on the Guild of St.
George by Thomas Beauchamp, by whom the present
tower was probably built, as his arms adorn the embat-
tled parapet. The groined roof of the first compartment
of the gateway is deserving of examination. In the
notice of St. Helen's Church, it has already been
mentioned that, together with St. Sepulchre's, it
occupied the site of the Priory : but not the slightest
vestige remains of either of the buildings. Within
Wedgnock Park is a spot on which formerly stood a
chapel called Cuckoo Church. It is not known at
what time it fell to ruin, but in 16 Henry VII. the
king bestowed the site on which it stood, and also the
church-yard, on the Dean and Canons of the Collegiate
Church.
St. Mary's Church. — The period of the foundation
of St, Mary's Church is uncertain ; but that it was
founded prior to the Conquest is evident, for in the con-
queror's survey it was certified to have one hide of land
in Myton, given to it by Turchil de Warwick, which
ST. maky's church. 43
land was then valued at 10s. It was made collegiate,
having a Dean, secular Canons, Priests and Choristers,
by Hen. de Newberg, first Earl of Warwick of the Nor-
man line ; and Eoger his son, in the year 1123, 23 Hen.
I., added to their body the Priests from the Church of
All Saints, and very liberally endowed the Church.
Various other benefactors, at different periods,
continued to augment its income ; and from its ample
endowments, and the poverty of various other churches
then standing in what now constitutes the parish of St.
Mary's, the other churches gradually fell into decay,
and finally merged into St. Mary's. It was not, how-
ever, without a struggle for supremacy that some of
these fell : and to such a height were their bickerings
carried, as to call forth the direct interference of the
Pope (Adrian IV.), to subdue them. At the survey, 26
Henry VIII., previous to the general dissolution, its
revenues were certified to be £334 2s. 3d. The books
in the library at that period were very few, and chiefly
accorded with the confined and bigoted feeling of the
period. Its Eeliques were pretty numerous, and such
as now would raise a smile in the most simple at the
credulity displayed by our ancestors.
The Collegiate Church of St. Mary was dissolved
37th Henry VIII. , and the same year granted by letters
patent to the Burgesses of Warwick, with an estate for
its maintenance and that of the King's School adjoining
— then worth £58 14s. 4d., and which is now £2756
15s. 9d. ; a very small portion of this is however applied
to the purpose for which it was originally intended.
44 ST, Mary's chukch.
The Church, as far as the choir, was destroyed by
the great fire, which in 1694, laid nearly the whole of
the town in ashes, and caused an estimated loss to the
inhabitants of £90,600; towards which £11,000 was
gathered by Brief, and £1,000 given by the Queen
(Anne). With this the Church and Tower was rebuilt,
from a design long supposed to have been furnished by
Sir C. When, but which recent enquiries have proved
to be by Sik W. Wilson, The Tower alone cost £1,600
and rises from four arches (three of which are open to
the street, the other forming the principal entrance to
the Church), and crowned with lofty pinnacles. It con-
tains a peal of ten bells, a set of chimes and a clock.
On the north, west and south sides is the following
inscription :—
TEMPLUM B : MARI^ COLLEGIATUM, PRIMITUS A ROG I DB
Novo-BURGO com: WAR : temp: steph: r: instauratum
P05TEA A THO : DE BELLO-CAMPO C : WARR ! EX TOTO
REEDIFICATUM AN. MCCCXCIIII CONFLAGRAONE STUP-
ENDA, NGN ARIS, NGN FOCIS PARCENTE, DIRUTUM v" SEP:
MDCXCIITI NOVUM HOG PIETATE PUBLICA INCflOATUM,
ET PROVECTUM, REGIA ABSOLUTUM EST, SUB L^TIS
AUN^ AUSPICIIS, a" MEMORABIDI MDCCIIII.
The Tower and a portion of the Church has been
restored at a cost of nearly £12,000.
The Church is deficient, in no ordinary degree, in
architectural beauty, although its noble proportions
give it a grandeur of appearance ; but for this it is
probably indebted to its predecessor, which doubtless
was strictly followed. It has a centre aisle, two side
aisles, and a transept.
ST. Mary's church. 45
The following are the admeasurements of the
Church :— To the top of the hattlements of the tower,
130 feet ; top of the pinnacles, 174 feet ; diameter at the
foot, 33 feet 4 inches; at the summit, 27 feet. Length
of the Church, including the Choir, 180 feet 6 inches ;
breadth, 66 feet 4 inches ; cross aisle, 106 feet 6 inches ;
height of the roof, 42 feet 6 inches; length of the Choir,
77 feet 3 inches; breadth, 27 feet 4 inches.
Over the principal entrance is a fine and powerful
organ, built by Swarebrick; improved, and its volume
very much increased by Bishop, in 1834 ; by Banfield,
in 1836 ; and by the same person, in 1842 ; and entirely
rebuilt, improved, and the whole instrument brought
forward by Hill and Son, in 1865. The furniture of the
Church is of oak, deeply embrowned by age, and sub-
stantially made. It has galleries on the north, west,
and south aisles, and is filled with ugly pews.
Afi&xed to a pillar, on the south side of the entrance,
is an incised brass with the figure of an old servant of
the Church, that will be immediately recognised by
those who have visited it some years ago ; beneath
is the following inscription: —
In the Churchyard adjoining, lie the mortal remains
of James Hadley, for the greater part of his life a
faithful servant of this Church. He died on the first
day of January, 1849, aged 68.
The aisles and transepts are filled with monuments,
the greater part of which are of no general interest.
Those erected to persons of note will now be described.
46 ST. mart's church.
East wall, left of lobby door, is an unpretending
monument to the memory of two of Warwick's greatest
benefactors to the poor, Thomas Oken and Joan his wife,
having two incised brasses and a brass tablet, recovered
after the great fire, with the following inscription : —
®f yonr (3^I)arptc gibe tf)anfes for the Soules of ^ftomas <!^feen
antr 3ionf i)ts a©pff— on tDftose Soules liesus iiati) m'et), Jtcsus
haii) m'cp— ^tnen — IRememfter pe cri)an)te for tl)c pore for eber,
lino. B iticcrcrccicxxiu.
Under the brass, upon a marble tablet, is the folloiving :
To the memory of Mr. THOMAS OKEN, an orna-
ment of his own, and a blessing to ages succeeding.
This monument, defaced by ye late dreadfull Fire, is
re-erected and dedicated by his Feoffees, the MAYOR
and ALDERMEN of this BOROUGH. Whose industry,
being born here, of mean parents, was so bless' d in ye
trade exercised of a mercer, that 37mo H. : 8, he was
Master of ye Guild of the Holy Trinity and St. Geoige,
now ye Hospital of E. of Leicester, 5th P. and Marrae,
Bailiff of this Borough and dying 15to of Eliz. gave to
Pious and Charitable Uses here, an Estate, then lett for
less yn 20/. per An. now by ye just Care of his Feoffees,
advanc'd notwithstanding the loss of several houses by
ye late Fire, to more than 100/. per An. also 100/. to
purchase Lands to enlarge ye common, 30/. to the Poor,
10/. to 30 poor Maidens for Marriages, 94 Ounces of
wrought Plate, for ye use of tlie Bailiffs successively.
And to ye Boroughs of Stratford and Banbury, 40/. each,
to be lent to honest tradesmen. Vide Dugdale's War.
ST. Mary's church. 47
This Charity, reader, was so wisely instituted, and
ye Trust so honestly executed, yt, if to thy faith Thou
art dispos'd to join good Works thou needst seek no
farther for a Model or encouragement, or Opportunity,
for ye have ye Poor with you always.
Opposite to this is a Monument erected to the
officers and men of the 24th Regiment, while surmount-
ing it are the Old Queen's and Regimental Colours.
North wall, west corner, is an unassuming marble
monument to another of Warwick's benefactors, with a
Latin inscription, which may be translated as follows : —
Near this place, in a vault, lieth William Johnson,
Doctor of Physic, Senior Fellow of the Royal College of
Physicians in London. A man of probity, justice,
honesty, who cultivated in himself real principles of
charity. A lover of gratitude : Do you desire to know
more of him, let propitious Fame of never-failing
memory, speak the rest. He died on the 22nd day of
Nov. 1725.
In the same vault is laid Ann his wife, who by her
last Will commanded her whole Estate, of about 3,000Z.
and 100/. which she left at her death (her debts and
legacies being first discharg'd) to be laid out for the
seasonable relief of poor people. By her will she like-
wise ordered that all her Lands which were situated at
a distance, together with the personal estates she then
possess'd to be sold, the first opportunity, and with the
money thence arising, other Freehold Lands to be
bought situated in the County of Warwick, the revenue
of which as also of all the Houses she possessed in
48 ST. maky's church.
Warwick, she bequeath'd to Trustees to be laid out
every year, for the Poor of this borough, for ever.
She died on the 4th day of April, in the year of our
Lord 1733, of her age 84.
East wall, near the entrance to the Lady's Chapel,
a marble monument, with brass effigies of Thomas
Beauchamp, the founder of the cLurch, and his wife ;
he had a stately monument in the church which was
destroyed by the great fire, but the brass effigies were
rescued from the flames and prefixed to the present
marble, with a . Latin inscription, of which the
following is a translation : —
Sacred to the best and greatest God, and to Eternal
Memory. Having had this Temple in vain for his
Mausoleum, and its Altars for his refuge, but awaken'd
from that Sleep in which he had lain buried for more
than Three Hundred Years, and which he thought
would not be disturbed but by the general Conflag-
ration ; Lo ! there now ariseth and standeth before you
that famous Man equally renowned for his Piety and
Valour; one while the Love, another while the envy of
Kings ; always beloved by the Kingdom : sometimes
the Sport of Fortune ; at length her Conqueror : Equal
to her Smiles ; Greater than her Frowns ; Almost the
last of a Name always terrible to France.
Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Governor of
the Isle of Guernsey, Serke, and Aureney ; Knight of
the Order of the Garter : Of some esteem with the
fortunate invincible Prince Edward Illd. on account of
his famous Exploits performed in England and France;
ST. Mary's church. 49
promoted by a convention of the Orders of the Eealm
to be Governor to Eichard lid. during his minority.
Condemn'd for High Treason when the same King was
made Master of himself, or rather of his subjects.
Banished to the Isle of Man ; recalled from Banishment
by Henry IVth. to his Estates and Honours ; who,
when he had lived long enough for his country, himself,
and his reputation, was together with his wife Margaret,
buried in this place, in the year of our Lord 1401.
That the sepulchral monument of the founder might
not perish in the ashes of this Collegiate Church, which
he himself had built, these Images, snatched from the
sacrilegious flames, were erected by the care of one of
the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament, for
the re-building the Town and this Sacred Church, and
who offers this Eulogium, such as it is, a kind of Funeral
Obsequy to the Memory of so great a Name, a Name
more durable than brass or marble. Anno. Dom. 1706.
Dugdale mentions the interment in this Church of
William Berksivell, Dean of the church, and one of the
Executors of Eichard Beauchamp, and who witnessed
the erection of the Lady's Chapel, and also the Buildings
called the College — Demi Alesire, who witnessed the
translation of Earl Eichard's body into the Lady's
Chapel. — Dean Haseley, Schoolmaster to Henry VII.—
John Bous, the justly celebrated antiquary. — Thomas
Cartwright, Master of the Earl of Leycester's Hospital
(" the first that in the Church of England began to pray
extempore before his sermon ") and others, whose
monuments in his day were defaced, and of which no
traces now remain.
G
50 ST. Mary's church.
The Choir is a part, as before mentioned, of the
ancient Church, which escaped the destructive fire of
1694; it is a lofty and magnificent structure, and forms
a striking contrast to the Church. The groined ceiling,
which is nearly flat, is supported by flying ribs, per-
forated, connected by light and elegant tracery ; the
centres of the groinings are finished by four large
shields, embosomed by seraphim, the two extreme ones
charged with the arms of Beauchamp — those in the
centre, Beauchamp impaling Mortimer and Ferrars of
Groby, showing the alliances of the founder of this
magnificent Gothic structure. It is lighted on each
side by four large windows, which were formerly filled
with rich old painted glass; one is now filled with
stained glass to the memory of Officers of the Eoyal
Warwickshire Kegiment, and a second to the memory
of the late Eev. G. Innes, for many years Master of
the King's School ; and at the east end by a large
stained glass window which has recently been erected
to the memory of the Eev. J. Boudier, formerly Vicar
of the parish, and which sheds a soft and subdued light
through this lovely pile. Considerable alterations have
been made in this part of the Church, which have
added much to the effect of its fine proportions. The
whole of the Chancel has been cleared of the coat of
plaster with which it was covered, and the stone-work
restored to its original state. The modern Altar Screen
of Oak, which was quite unworthy of its antique shrine,
has been removed, and in its room is erected a fine
reredos in black and white marble, to the memory of
an old inhabitant of the town. The Stalls likewise,
ST. Mary's church. 51
^Yhich were of a similar character with the Altar
Screen before alluded to, are replaced by others in
harmony with the style of the period when this portion
of the sacred edifice was erected. They consist of
ranges of Stalls in three divisions on each side, and are
designed in conformity with those in the Beauchamp
Chapel, with massive bench ends termiaating with
finial tops, and moulded elbows on which stand
grotesque figures. The backs of the seats against the
north and south walls consist of perforated tracery
with shields, so arranged as to hide as little as possible
of the shafts and mouldings of the stone panelling.
The backs of the lower stalls, both above and below
the seat, are richly panelled and moulded.
To the south of the altar is a piscina, and four
sedilia for the officiating Priests and Deacons, and on
the north side is a deep recess formed for the repre-
sentation of the Holy Sepulchre, which was formerly
exhibited at Easter,
In the centre of the Choir is a fine table monument
supporting the recumbent effigies of Earl Thomas Beau-
champ (the founder of the Choir), and Catherine, his
second Countess, daughter of Roger Mortimer, Earl of
March. The Earl is represented in armour, covered
with a surcoat, worked with a fess between six crosslets
— a dagger on his right side, spurs on his heels — his
left hand gauntleted, resting on his sword— his right,
uncovered, clasping that of his consort — his helmeted
head supported by a cushion, and his feet resting upon
a bear. The Countess is habited in a mantle and
petticoat laced down the front below her girdle, and
52 ST. mart's church.
very rich— her sleeves reaching to the wrists, and
buttoned — head-dress reticulated — her head is sup-
ported by a cushion, and her feet rest upon a lamb —
her right hand is clasped in that of the Earl — her left
reposed on her breast when perfect, but is now broken
off at the wrist. Bound about the tomb are thirty-six
statues, placed alternately, male and female : a shield
below each was, doubtlessly, formerly charged with the
arms of each, which would have given a clue to their
names, but the bearings of the whole are now nearly
obhterated. The Earl died at Calais, Nov. 15, 1370,
aged 63.
In this Choir was also buried William Parr,
Marquis of Northampton, brother of Queen Catherine
Parr, but no trace of his tomb is now left.
Beneath the Choir is a large Crypt, supported by
massive Norman pillars and arches, formerly used
as a charnel house, but since as a burial place for the
Corporation, till the Municipal Corporation Act
removed that permanent distinction. It contains
many monuments and inscriptions, and is the entrance
to the Earl of Warwick's vault. Here is also placed
the ancient Cucking or Ducking Stool.
North of the Choir are three apartments : 1st, the
Vestry, formerly containing the Library, which is now
removed to the Vestry at the back of the Altar in the
" Lady's Chapel : " beneath this is an apartment, styled
in an old inventory of goods in the Church, " the lowe
house under the vestry," now used as a Mausoleum for
the noble family of Warwick. — 2nd, an octagon room
ST. MARY S CHURCH. 53
formerly used as a Chapter House, in which now
stands the stately but heavy monument of Fulke Lord
Brooke. It has a sarcophagus, placed beneath a heavy
double canopy, supported by Corinthian columns, and
surmounted by pyramidical ornaments; round the
cornice is the following inscription : — "fvlke grevill,
SERVANT TO QVEENE ELIZABETH, CONCELLOR TO KING
TAMES, AND FREND TO SIR PHILIP SIDNEY; TROPH^VM
PECCATi." On the tomb rest several pieces of funeral
armour, and round the room is suspended armour, &c.
— 3rd, The Lobby, a spacious room, in which is a
marble monument containing a modest and elegant
Latin inscription, of which the following is a trans-
lation : —
If you ask. Traveller, who lies here? take the account
in a few words : I was Francis Parker, born at London,
educated at Cambridge, where I obtained (I know not
whether I deserved it) the degree of Master of Arts. 1
served the Lords Francis, Eobert, Fulk Brooke, in the
character of Tutor, Secretary, and Steward, for almost
45 years, with what integrity and assiduity, let the
survivors who know it declare : I deceased at London,
in the house belonging to the Brookes, where I generally
lived, on the 10th day of November, in the year of our
Lord, 1693, of my age 67. When I rise again with my
Lords, who are sleeping near me, may I hear the joyful
eulogy,
WELL DONE THOU GOOD AND FAITHFUL SERVANT !
On the west side is a marble tomb, with Corinthian
pillars, supporting a heavy canopy bearing a Latin
inscription to the memory of Sir Thomas Puckering,
54 ST. mary's church.
Bart., youngest son of John Puckering, Lord Keeper of
the Great Seal to Queen Elizabeth : he resided at the
Priory, in this borough, and died there March 20, 1636.
The whole of these three rooms have lately been
cleaned, and the walls cleared of several coats of plaster
and whitewash ; what was supposed to have been a
wall between the vestry and lobby,, was discovered to be
a fine Gothic stone screen which had been blocked up ;
it has now been put in a thorough state of repair, and
the openings filled with stained glass. Some fine old
glass, taken from the east window of the Choir, now
fills the windows of the vestry.
At the west end of the Church is a monumental
bust, erected to the memory of Walter Savage Landor,
the author of ** Imaginary Conversations," with this
inscription: — "Born at Warwick 30th January, 1775,
died at Florence 17th September, 1864.
Against the arch are placed the Colors which belonged
to the County Volunteers in 1801. These were for
many years deposited at the War Office, but by the
kindness of Lord Leigh, the Lord Lieutenant of the
County, to whom they were ofi'ered by the late Sir G.
Cornwall Lewis, they have been deposited here.
On the right of the Chancel arch are the Colors of
the Eoyal Warwickshire Regiment, placed here in 1888,
after the presentation of new Colors to the Regiment.
The Beauchamp Chapel. —This magnificent pile is
entered by a descent of several steps from the south
transept of the Church, beneatn a doorway beautifully
carved in stone, said to have been executed by a poor
ST. MARY S CHURCH. 55
mason of Warwick, in 1704, but which Mr. Bloxham
assumes to be a restoration of the old doorway; the
arms of Beauchamp adorn the centre, and on each side
is the crest of the Bear and Eagged Staif, oak leaves,
&c., forming the cornice ; the arch is likewise beautifully
sculptured ; above the entrance is a music gallery or
organ loft. The Chapel is 58 feet long, 25 feet wide,
and 82 high. The seats are of fine old oak, beautifully
carved, their elbows formed of bears, griffins, lions, &c.,
and near the altar are two antique desks. The Chapel
is lighted by two large windows in the upper part of the
side walls (north and south), on the west by a window
looking into the Church (the greater part of these
windows are of plain glass, and what is left of coloured
glass are mostly fragments) ; and by a large rich window
of fine old "storied" glass on the east side; the ceiling
of the Chapel, like that of the Choir, is nearly flat,
ornamented with groined ribs, at the intersections of
which are bosses elegantly painted and gilt ; the
principal shields are charged with the arms of
de Newburgh, the first Earl of Warwick of the
Norman line, — the founder (Beauchamp), and the one
nearest the altar with the Virgin, surrounded by a
glory; the altar-piece is of bas-relief of the salutation
of the Virgin Mary, beautifully executed by a Mr,
Collins, of Warwick, from a design by Lightoler. In
the corners of the east end are elegant niches, which,
according to Dugdale, formerly held Images of Gold,
each of the weight of 201bs. To the left of the altar
is a doorway leading to an apartment, formerly the
Vestry, but now fitted up for a Library, and into which
56 ST. maey's church.
the books have been removed from the Vestry. On the
north side of the Chapel is a small Oratory, reached
by a short flight of stone steps. The ornaments of
this little chantry are exquisitely finished — the roof is
groined with fan tracery, light and elegant — a range of
windows on its south side open to the Beauchamp
Chapel ; the steps of the confessional adjoining this
Oratory are very much worn, and prove either the
fanaticism of the devotees, or a fervour of devotion
that were well copied in our more enlightened days.
To the west of this apartment is another, fitted up
with desks and seats, and beyond this is another
apartment without seats ; from thence a flight of steps
conducts to the roof of the building. The original
items for the erection of this exquisite pile, and the
costly and beautiful tomb it was erected to enshrine,
are of great interest, but would extend this book
beyond its limits : they may, however, be found in the
larger edition of this Guide.
The structure was commenced 21 Hen. VI., and
finished 3 Edward IV., occupying a period of 21 years,
at a cost of £2,481 4s. 7d., the value of a fat Ox at that
time being 13s. 4d., and a quarter of bread Corn 3s. 4d.
The Chapel though finished, was not consecrated till
15 Edw. IV., when John Hales, Bishop of Coventry and
Lichfield, was specially commissioned for the purpose
by John Carpenter, Bishop of Worcester. The principal
tomb in the Chapel is that to enshrine which this
gorgeous pile was erected. It is an altar tomb of Purbec
marble, bearing the recumbent efl5gy,in fine latten brass,
gilt, of the great Earl, lying on a slab of the same m etal,
ST. mart's church. 57
above which is a hearse of the same metal, formerly
supporting a pall of velvet. The figure is in full armour,
with a sword and dagger ; the head, uncovered, rests
upon his helmet, the feet supported by a bear and
griffin ; the hands are raised as in prayer, but not
closed ; the whole of the figure and its accompani-
ments are minutely and beautifully finished. Around
the tomb, in niches, are fourteen images of lords and
ladies, in *' divers vestures, called w^eepers ; " beneath
each is a shield of arms, as follows : —
Next to the head, west end of the Tomb. 1. — Cecily (Neville)
Duchess of Warwick, the Earl's daughter-in-law. 2. — Henry,
Duke of Warwick, the Earl's only son.
South side of the Tomb. 3. — Richard Neville, Earl of Salis-
bury, and in right of his wife, Anne, sister of Duke Henry and his
heiress, also Earl of Warwick, son-in-law to the deceased. 4. —
Edmund Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, a son-in-law. 5. — Humphrey
Stafford, Duke of Buckingham. 6. — John Talbot, Earl of Shrews-
bui-y, a son-in-law. 7. — Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, father
of Richard, Earl of Salisbury and Warwick.
East end of the Tomb. 8. — George Neville, Lord Lattimer, a
son-in-law of the deceased. 9. — Elizabeth, Lady Lattimer, third
daughter of the Earl, wife of the last described.
North side of the Tomb. 10.— Anne (styled in her own right)
Countess of Salisbury, only child of the Duke and Duchess, and
grand-daughter of the deceased: she died in 1449, aged 10 years.
11. — Margaret, Countess of Shrewsbury, eldest daughter of Earl
Richard. 12.— Anne, Duchess of Buckingham. 13. — Eleanor,
Duchess of Somerset, second daughter of the Earl. 14. — Anne,
Countess of Salisbury and Warwick, fourth daughter of Earl
Richard, and only sister of the whole blood and heiress to Duke
Henry. Between each " weeper " are smaller niches, raised upon
pillars, containing whole length figures of angels, clothed in robes,
and holding scrolls inscribed—
Sit tifo laus et rjlan'a: tjefunctts misericortJia.
The inscription, of which the following is a copy, is
on the edge of the tomb, running twice round in the
Old English character, and freely interspersed with the
H
58 ST. mart's church.
Earl's crest — the Bear and Eagged Staff; the Bear
being represented by '•' and the Ragged Staff by I : —
♦ ^Qrcicti) Uctjoutlu for ti)C s^otocl 6Qf)om gotf nffoilk of one
of tf)c mooft iiiorf{)ipfuI 1J{nigf)tcs in Ijis Unncs [ of monljotrc $c
conning X Mid)cT:rU * 3Seaucf)amp J late CForl of ^arrefcuih * lortf
Qefpenfcr of * Bergabenny, $c of monn otijer grete * IortJfI)tps,
toijos liot«n rcfteti) i)ere untfer tijis tumbe in a fulfeire bout of
Stone fct on tl)e bare roocf), ti)eiBt)uc]^ faifietf) initf) longe siknes
in tl)e I GTaftel of % ^o«in tf)erinne Ueceffetf ful criftcnb tf)e laft
tjan of * ^pril tf)e wer of oure t ^ox^ Qo^ ^. M 1 eDeDCe^ixxix,
I l}c luing at tf)at ipme * ICieutenant gen'al anU goberner of tf)c
Eotalme of JFrance antr of tf)e Bucljie of i^ormantJie, by sufRcient
X ^utorite of oure Sou'aigne lorH tl)e Iting * l^arry t!)e b).
tfjetoljtcl) faotip toitf) grete treliberaeon' anU ful toorfbipful contrint
I * 13i See * ^ntf bo * lonti baas brogF)t to 2(!flarretoik tl)c itif tiay
of % ©ctober ti)e ijer abouefcitie, antf teas | * Icitfe toitl) ful Solcnne
exequies in a feir ci)eft matre of Stone in tl)is CCf)ircbe afore ti^e
toeft tJore of ti)is % ®I)apcl accortiing to f}is laft fti^ille * mnlf X
STeftament X tbcrin to refte til tf)is X <?Cl)apel bo l)im ticbifetf V i)is
lief toere matie. 'ai tbctol)ucl)e Cbapel founHctf X\* ®" tl)e
Boocl), ^ntf alle t\)t J^Ilembrcs tl)erof bis X €xecutours tretre fully
make ^ntf "^pparaille * | * 13y tl^e '^luctorite of f)is SeiKe laft
MilU ^nti I ^eftament '^n'is * tl)erafter ISy tl)c X same "^uctoritf
^bcyt'itJe * ^ranflate X ffwl * toorffjipfully tbe feitJC 13otty into
tbe bout abouefcitfc, l^onureti be gotr ti^erfore * X * + *
[The mark | shows the places where the inscription passes from
one side of the tomb to another.]
The monument to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leycester,
and his Countess Lettice, is erected against the north
wall of the Chapel. It is a heavy canopy, profusely
ornamented, supported by Corinthian pillars, beneath
which, enclosed by iron rails, is an altar-tomb support-
ing recumbent figures of the deceased Earl and his
Countess. The Earl's figure is clothed in armour, over
which is a mantle bearing the badge of the Order of
the Garter on the left shoulder, the French Order of
St. Michael on the left breast, and the Garter round
his knee — his head, uncovered, rests on a cushion, his
ST. maey's church. 59
feet on a pair of gauntlets. The figure of the Countess is
attired in the robes of a peeress, a circle of jewels round
her head, and wearing the high ruff of the Elizabethan
age — her head rests upon a cushion, her feet are with-
out support. Within the arch on a table is a Latin
inscription, translated as follows : —
Sacred to the God of the living. In certain hope of
a resurrection in Christ, here lieth the most illustrious
Eobert Dudley, fifth son of John, Duke of Northumber-
land, Earl of Warwick, Viscount Lisle, &c. — He was
Earl of Leycester, Baron of Denbigh, Knight both of
the Order of the Garter and St. Michael, Master of the
Horse to Queen Elizabeth (who distinguished him by
particular favour), soon after Steward of the Queen's
Household, Privy Counsellor, Justice in Eyre of the
Forests, Parks, Chases, &c., on this side Trent, from the
year 1585 to the year 1587, Lieutenant and Captain
General of the English Army sent by the said Queen
Elizabeth to the ISTetherlands ; Governor General and
Commander of the provinces united in that place ;
Lieutenant Governor of England against Philip the
Second of Spain, in the year 1588, w^hen he was pre-
paring to invade England with a numerous Fleet and
Army. — He gave up his soul to God his Saviour on the
4th day of September, in the year of salvation, 1588.
His most sorrowful wife, Lsetitia, daughter of
Francis Knolles, Knight of the Order of the Garter,
and Treasurer to the Queen, through a sense of con-
jugal love and fidelity hath put up this monument
to the best and dearest of husbands.
60
ST, MARY S CHURCH.
On the corner of the tomb hangs a wooden tablet,
with the following inscription in black letters on a gilt
ground : — -
Vpon the death of the excellent and inous Lady Leftice,
Countess of Leicester, loho died ujjon Christmas Day,
in the Morning, 1634.
Look iu this vault and search it
well
Much treasure in it lately fell
We are all rob'd, and all doe say
Our wealth was carry ed this away
And that the theft might nere be
found
'Tis buried closely under ground
Yet if you gently stirr the mould
There all our losse you may be-
hould
There you may see that face, that
hand,
Which once was fairest in the
land.
She that in her younger yeares
Match'd with two great English
peares
She that did supplye the warrs
With thunder, and the Court
with Stars;
She that in youth had been
Darling to the maiden Queene.
Till phe was content to quitt
Her favoure for her favouritt,
Whose gould thread when she saw
spunn,
And the death of her brave sonn,
Thought it safest to retyre
From all care and vaine desire,
To a private countrie cell,
Where she^pent her daj-s soe well
That to her the better sort
Came, as to an holy Court;
And the poore that lived neare
Dearth nor famine could not feare
While she lived, she lived thus.
Till that God displeased wifh us
Suffered her at last to fall,
Not from him but from us all :
And because she tooke delight
Christ's poore members to invite.
He fully now requites her love.
And sends his angels from above
That did to heaven her soul convay
To solemnize his owne birthday.
Gervas Clifton.
At the head of Earl Eichard's tomb stands that of
Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, the brother of Eliza-
beth's proud favourite, but honourably distinguished
from that proud peer by his numerous virtues. It is
an altar-tomb, supporting the recumbent figure of the
deceased Earl, carved in marble and painted — the effigy
is represented in a suit of armour, covered by a mantle,
on the left shoulder of which is embroidered the Order
of the Garter — the hands are raised in adoration — the
ST. mart's church. 61
head supported by a roll of the mat on which the figure
reposes — the feet rest upon a chained bear. Under the
cornice, on eight tablets, is the following inscription : —
Heare under this tomb lieth the Corps of the L :
Ambrose Duddeley, who after the deceases of his elder
bretheren without issue was sonne and heir to lohn
Duke of Northumberlande, to whom Q : Elizabeth in y®
first year of her reigne gave the manor of Kibworth
Beauchamp in the county of Leyc : to be held by y^
service of beinge Pantler to y*" Kings and Queens of this
realme at their Coronations, which office and manor
his said father and other his ancestors Earls of Warr :
helde. In the seconde yeare of her reigne y^ said
Queue gave him the office of Mayster of the Ordinavnce.
In her fowrth yeare of her sayd reigne, she created him
Baron Lisle and Erie of Warwyk. 'In the same yeare
she made him her Livetenant Generall in Normandy,
and dvring the tyme of his services there he was chosen
Knight of y"" noble order of y^ Garter. In the twelvth
yeare of her reigne y^ said Erie & Edward L : Clinton
L : Admerall of England were made Livetenantes
Generall joinctley and severally of her Ma"®^ army in
the north partes. In the Thirteenth yeare of her reigne
the sayd Qvene bestowed on him y® office of Chief
Bvtler of England, and in the xvth yeare of her reigne
he was sworne of her Prevye Covnsell. Who departinge
this lief w^'out issue y^ xxi*'' day of Febrvary, 1589, at
Bedford Howse, neare the city of London, from whence
as himself desired his corps was conveyed and interred
in this place neare his brother Eobert E : of Leyc : and
62 ST. mart's church.
others his noble ancestors, w*''' was accomplished by his
last and welbeloved wiefe y® Lady Anne Covntes of
Warr : who in fvrther testimony of her faythfvll love
towardes him bestowed this Monumet as a remebrance
of him.
The sides of the tomb are decorated with shields of
Arras, beneath which are the following inscriptions: —
South side. — The sayd Lord Ambrose Duddeley
maried to his first wiefe x\nne dowghter and coheir
of William Whorwood Esquier, Attorney Generall to
Kinge Henry the Eyghte. ,
The said Lord Ambrose maried to his seconde wief
Elizabeth dowghter of Sir Gilbert Taylboys Knight,
sister and sole heir of George Lord Taylboys.
*
The said Ambrose after he was Erie of Warwik
maried to his third wife the Lady Ann eldest daughter
to Francis Eusell Erie of Bedford Kt of y« Garter.
North side. — John Duddeley Esq'" second sonne to
John L : Duddeley and Knight of the Garter maried
Elizabeth dowghter and heir of John Bramshott, Esq.,
and had issue Edmond Duddeley.
Edm : Duddeley Esq'" one of ye Privie Counsell to
K. Henrie 7 : maried Elizab. sister and sole heir of
John Grey Viscoiit Lisle descended as heir to theldst
do : and coheir of Eic : Beachap E : of Warr : & Elizab :
his wief do : and heir of the L : Berkeley & heir of ye
L : Lisle & Ties & had issue lo Duke of Northiib.
ST. mary's chuech. 63
John Duke of Northumberland Erie of Warr :
Viscount Lisle and Knight of y® Garter maried lane do :
and heir of S*" Edward Guildeford Knight and Elianor
his wief sister and coheir to Thomas L : Lawarre and
had issue the sayd L : Ambrose,
At the east end is a large shield with the quarterings
of Dudley impailing those of Eussell, beneath the former
the motto, " Omnia Temp' Habet," and beneath the
latter, "Che Sara Sara;" and at the west a large
shield, containing the quarterings of Dudley alone,
beneath which is the motto " Omnia Temp' Habet."
Attached to the South wall of the Chapel, and near
to the altar, is the tomb of Eobert Dudley, Lord
Denbigh, the infant son of Eobert Dudley, Earl of
Leicester, It is an altar-tomb, on which reposes an
effigy of the noble infant, clothed in a long gown
buttoned up the breast, over which falls a lace collar —
the hands are prettily crossed on the breast — the head
is bound with a circlet of jewels, and rest on a cushion,
while at the feet lies a chained bear, at the back of the
tomb is a shield with sixteen quarterings, and on the
front of the tomb is the following inscription: —
Heere resteth the body of the noble Impe Eobert
of Dvdley Bar' of Denbigh, sonne of Eobert Erie of
Leycester, nephew and heire vnto Ambrose Erie of
Warwike ; bretherne, both son'es of the mightie Prince
John late Dvke of Northvmberland, and was covsin and
heire to S'* John Grey Viscont Lysle, covsin and heire
to S^ Thomas Talbot Viscont Lysle, nephew and heire
vnto the Lady Margaret Covntesse of Shrewsbvry, and
64 ST. maey's church.
eldest davghter and coheire of the noble Erie of War-
wike S^ Eichard Beavchamp heere enterrid : a child of
greate parentage bvt of farre greater hope and toward-
nes, taken from this transitory vnto the everlastinge
life, in his tender age, at Wanstead in Essex, on
Svndaye, the 19 of luly in the yeare of ovr Lorde God
1584. Beinge the xxvth yere of the happy reigne
of the most vertvovs and godly Princis Qveene Eliza-
beth ; And in this place layed up emonge his noble
avncestors, in assvred hope of the generall resurrection.
Over the door leading from the Chapel to the Oratory
is a mural table containing the following inscription to
the memory of the Lady Catherine Leveson : —
To the memory of the Lady Katherine (late wife of
Sr Eichard Leveson of Trentham, in the county of
Staff. Kt. of the Bath), one of the daughters and coheirs
of Sr EoB. Dudley, Knt. son to Eobert late Earl of
Leicester, by Alicia, his wife* daughter to Sr Tho.
Leigh of Stoneley, Knt and Bart (created Dutchess
Dudley, by K. Charles I. in regard y* her said husband,
leaving his Eealme, had ye title of a Duke confer'd
upon him by Ferdinand II. Empr. of Germany), w'ch
hon'bl lady taking notice y* these tombs of her noble
ancestors being much blemisht by consuming time, but
more by ye rude hands of impious people, where in
danger of utter ruine by ye decay of this Chapell, if not
timely prevented, did in her life time giue fifty pounds
for its speedy repair : and by her last Will and Testament
bearing date xviii Dec. 1673, bequeath forty pounds _per
* A Noble monument to the memory of this Lady is erected in
the Chancel of Stoneleigh Church, near Kenilworth.
CHURCHES OF WARWICK. 65
annum issuing out of her mannour of Foxley, in ye
County of Northampton, for its perpetuall support and
preservation of these Monuments in their proper state ;
ye surplusage to be for the poor brethren of her Grand-
father's Hospitall in this Borough; appointing William
Dygdale of Blythe Hall in this county Esq., (who
represented to her ye necessity of this good worke) and
his heires, together with the Mayor of Warwick for
the time being, to be her trustees therein.
The exterior of the Chapel is covered with rich
tracery and architectural embellishments ; between
each window are widely projected buttresses, which,
narrowing to the top, terminate in a light and elegant
pinnacle ; the eastern gable is ornamented with alto
relievos of the Virgin and Child, between Simeon and
Anna the prophetess, and below is a shield bearing the
Arms, now much obliterated, of the De Newburghs.
St. Paul's Church has lately been erected in a
thickly populated district at the west end of the town.
It is very unpretending in appearance, and contains
nothing worthy of notice.
St. Nicholas' Church is situate near the entrance
to the Castle Grounds. There is reason to believe that
its site was occupied by a religious house long prior to
the Conquest. Eous states that the Chancel of the
Church standing in his day had been the choir of an
ancient nunnery, destroyed by the Danes in 1016 ; which
nunnery, he states, occupied the whole of the church-
yard, and part of the neighbouring Hospital of St. John.
The present church though faulty in its general outline
66 THE PRIORY.
— in its proportion and its detail (says Mr. Bloxam), is
nevertheless interesting from the fact of its being one of
the earliest Churches erected towards the close of the
last century, on the incipient revival of ancient ecclesi-
astical architecture. A new Choir has lately been
added in exceedingly good taste, and an attempt made
to improve the interior of the building. The monuments
are few and not remarkable. All Saints' Church,
situate on the left of the road leading to Leamington,
has lately been built by subscription to supply the
pressing wants of a dense and poor population. It is
a very handsome structure, and contains many stained
glass windows and a reredos of Venetian Mosaic, well
worthy of inspection. The interior is very handsomely
decorated. St. John's is a fine old building situate at
the east end of the town. It was founded in the reign
of Henry II, by William de Newburgh, as an Hospital
of St. John the Baptist, for the relief of the poor and
the entertainment of strangers : it however ceased to
exist long prior to the dissolution.
The Priory of St. Sepulchre was commenced by
Henry de Newburgh, Earl of Warwick, but was not
completed till the days of Roger his son ; for in his time
did Simon, Bishop of Worcester, consecrate the altar
here as also the churchyard, for the sepulture only of
the canons there serving God. It was founded, as
before stated, on the site of the ancient church of St.
Helen's, for a Society of Canons regular, in imitation
of one established at the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem.
In the Liber Regis it was retained at £41 19s. 2d., and
THE SCHOOLS. 67
at the dissolution was granted to Thomas Fisher, who
"pulled to the ground the Monastery, and raised in the
place of it a very fair house, which is yet to be seen."
His son sold it to Sergeant Puckering, Lord Keeper of
the Great Seal, in whose family it continued until pur-
chased by Henry Wise, Esq. It is now the property
of S. S. Lloyd, Esq.
The King's School, which, recent research has
shewn, existed in 1123, is now removed to a very
handsome building recently erected near the Castle
Bridge, is intended, under the Charter of Henry VIII.,
to provide education in the learned languages for the
native children of the town free of expense. The
constitution of this School is entirely altered by a new
scheme under the Endowed Schools Commission. A
classical and commercial education is now offered to
students who can pass a moderately easy examination,
on the following terms, viz. : for the children of parents
residing in the borough, £3 per term. For children of
non-residents, £4 per term. And the Head Master is
empowered under the scheme to receive a limited
number of boarders for £13 6s. 8d. per term. This
includes washing, and there are no extras. Arrange-
ments are made by which a dinner is provided at a fixed
tariff for boys who come from a distance. There are
also several exhibitions, tenable for four years, at places
of higher education, as well as for partial and total
remission of fees in the school itself.
A Boys' Middle School, under the management of
the same Board of Governors, has recently been erected
on the Butts, for a sound general education at the low
68 leycester's hospital.
rate of £1 6s. 8d, per term for children of residents in
the borough, agd £1 13s. 4d. for non-residents. A High
School for Girls has been opened, under the same
scheme, on a really good educational basis. For a list
of the fees payable see the end of this book. Full
particulars of these excellent schools may be obtained
on application to E. C. Heath, Esq., of Warwick, who
is clerk to the Governors.
THE HOSPITAL OF ROBERT DUDLEY,
EARL OF LEYCESTER.
This truly interesting building was amongst the few
edifices that escaped the general conflagration of 1694,
in which the greater part of the town of Warwick was
consumed. It is owing to this circumstance that it
presents at this day one of the most perfect specimens
of the half- timber buildings which exist in this county.
It is situated at the west end of High Street, to w^hich
its chapel, with a bold and beautiful eastern window
which has recently been placed where a former one had
previously existed, forms a very striking termination.
Below the chapel is a singular vaulted passage of very
great antiquity, and through which the street, or
entrance into the town formerly passed. The solid
sandstone rock here rises out of the earth in huge blocks
and forms a natural foundation for the building to rest
upon. The tower, which was built by Thomas de
Beauchamp, temp. Eichard II., rises above the chapel;
whilst below, it forms, with a richly-groined ceiling, the
western gateway of the once strongly fortified town of
leycester's hospital. 69
Warwick. The hinges on which the ponderous gates
once swung are still visible in the side walls, as also
the perforations for the reception of the massive bars.
The building was originally used as the halls of the
United Guilds, or lay fraternities of the Holy Trinitv
and the Blessed Virgin, and of St. George the Martyr,
which were established 6 Eichard II. and dissolved by
an Act of Parliament 37 Hen. VIII. After the disso-
lution it was granted to Sir Nicholas Le Strange, Knt.,
4 Edward VI., but in the succeeding reign it was vested
in the bailiff and burgesses of the borough of Warwick,
who, 14th Elizabeth 1571, conveyed it, but whether by
purchase or otherwise does not appear, to Eobert Lord
Dudley, Earl of Leycester, and converted by him into
an Hospital for a Master and 12 brethren. He obtained
an Act of Incorporation for it, 1571, and constituted it
a collegiate body with a common seal, by the style and
title of " the Hospital of Eobert, Earl of Leycester, in
Warwick. ' ' The Visitors being the Bishop of Worcester,
the Archdeacon of Worcester,and the Dean of Worcester.
In the Act of Incorporation Lord Leycester calls it his
Maison Dieu, on which account, with the greatest pro-
priety, the gate posts are entwined with texts of scripture,
whilst other texts are conspicuously and judiciously
scattered through the building, reminding the master
and brethren of their relative duties, and of their moral
and religious obligations. Thomas Cartwright, the
celebrated puritan reformer, was named by Lord Ley-
cester, in the Act of Incorporation, as the first Master;
he resided with his family in the master's lodge, in the
Hospital (except at such times as he was imprisoned jn
70 leycester's hospital.
the Queen's Bench, at the instance of Archbishop
Whitgift, for nonconformity). He died in the Hospital
Dec. 27, 1603, and lies buried in the adjoining Church
of St. Mary's in Warwick. It was required by the
statutes of the founder that the master should be a
clergyman, in full orders of the Church of England,
whilst the places of brethren were to be filled, first, by
the tenants and retainers of the said Earl and of his
heirs, especially those that had been wounded under
the conduct of Lord Leycester, or of his heirs, in the
wars, provided they had resided a certain time either in
the counties of Warwick or Gloucester; by the Queen's
soldiers, especially those that have been wounded,
according to a rotation of towns and villages specified in
the Act of Incorporation, namely, Warwick, Kenilworth,
Stratford-on-Avon, Wootton-under-Edge, and Erling-
ham. As Lord Leycester' s heirs have of late years
possessed no tenants or retainers in the counties of
Warwick or Gloucester, the brethren have for a length
of time been regularly appointed from each of the above
places in turn. The property of the Hospital consists
of farms in the county of Warwick, and of tythes in
the counties of Gloucester and Lancaster. The original
allowance to the brethren is now, by an Act of Parlia-
ment, limited to £80 per annum, besides the privileges
of the house. Each brother has separate apartments.
There is also a common kitchen, with housekeeper and
porter to cook for and attend to- them. The brethren
are obliged by statute always to wear a livery when
abroad, which consists of a handsome blue broadcloth
gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff,
leycester's hospital. 71
Lord Leycester's crest, suspended on the left sleeve
behind.* As both Lord Leycester and his brother
Ambrose, the good Earl of Warwick, died without off-
spring, their sister, Lady Mary, wife of Sir Henry
Sidney, K.G,, and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, became
the sole heiress of both her brothers, the Earls of
Warwick and Leycester, and of her father, John, Duke
of Northumberland. In consequence of this circum-
stance, the Lord de Lisle, of Penhurst Castle, as Lord
Leycester's heir general, appoints the master and
brethren according to Statute. A late master, the
Eev. Philip Sidney Harris, M.A., a cousin of Lord de
Lisle, is the second of Lord Leycester's family who has
presided over his Lordship's foundation. The present
master is the Eev. Geo. Morley, M.A. The buildings,
though very ancient, are in good repair, and present
some beautiful specimens of half-timbered architecture,
especially in the fine old roofs. The quadrangle con-
tains, on the north side, the Master's Lodge, on the
east, the Master's apartments and the common kitchen,
on the west, what was originally a large hall, but
which has now been dismantled and converted into
offices, where (according to a tablet placed therein) King
James I. w^as right sumptuously entertained by Sir
Fulke Greville, and on the south and west sides, the
rooms for the brethren. It is richly adorned with the
16 quarterings of Lord Leycester's Arms, separately
emblazoned, as on his own and on that of his son's
* The badges still in use are the identical badges worn by the first
brethren appointed by Lord Leycester, with the exception of one,
which was cut off and stolen about fifty j'ears ago. It cost five
guineas to replace it. The names of the original possessors and
date, 1571, are engraved on the back of each.
72 leycesteb's hospital.
monument in the Beauchamp Chapel, with the Sidney
Arms added, along with the bear and ragged staff and
porcupine, the former Lord Leycester's and the latter
the Sidney's crest. The front of the Hospital displays
a beautiful specimen of half-timbered building, with a
very fine gable, having richly carved verge boards, and
is emblazoned with the armorial bearings of Lord
Leycester's ancestors, his crest and initials (E.L.) and
motto, " Droit et Loyal," exactly as they appear on the
celebrated alabaster mantlepiece, exhibited at the gate-
way of Kenil worth Castle. On the first of July in
every year the statutes of the Hospital are required to
be publicly read in the Chapel, where they are also
suspended.
The interior of the Chapel has lately been entirely
renovated, a fine timber roof put on, and newly fitted
with carved oak stalls, and the east window filled with
stained glass ; the whole from designs by Mr. G. G.
Scott, the famous architect. In this Chapel the
brethren assemble morning and evening daily, to hear
a selection of prayers from the Liturgy, which is made
at the discretion of the Master, except when there is
service at St. Mary's, when they are required to attend
there.
Behind the Hospital is a kitchen garden, from the
terraces of which a beautiful and extensive view is
obtained. The produce of the garden is equally divided
between the master and the brethren.
In the centre of the garden, on a square pedestal^
stands a vase, which formerly crowned a Nilometer, or
one of the pillars which mark the rise of the Nile : this
leycester's hospital, 73
curious and beautiful relic of Egyptian art formerly
stood in the centre of the grand Conservatory in the
gardens of Warwick Castle, whence it was removed to
make way for the celebrated Warwick Vase, and pre-
sented to the Hospital by a late Earl of Warwick, as
appears from the inscription on the north side of the
pedestal, from the classic pen of Dr. Parr, which we
subjoin : —
SITU
QUO NUNC HADR. AUG.
CKATEK SUPERBIT
DEPORTATUM.
The western side of the pedestal contains the follow-
ing lines from the pen of a late master — The Eev. J.
Kendall — whose name is also inscribed on the south
side, in Latin, as having caused the vase to be placed
there : —
In oral times e'er yet the Prophet's pen,
God's laws inscribed, and taught his ways to men,
The sculptured Vase in Memphian temples stood.
The Sphere's rich symbol of prolific flood :
Wise antients knew, when Crater rose to sight,
Nile's festive deluge had sustained its height.
In visiting the Hospital one is led to contrast the
present flourishing condition of it, with the utter des-
truction of the proud abode of its illustrious founder —
the Castle of Kenilworth, with its farms, parks, and
chases : these were found by the Commissioners
appointed to survey it by James I., to be between 19
and 20 miles in circumference ; and not a rood of this
noble property ever descended to Lord Leycester's heirs.
His base son, as in his will he calls Sir Eobert Dudley,
K
74 REPOSITORIES.
and to whom he left the property, appears hterally to
have been defrauded of the whole by the government of
the day, by means of a Star Chamber process, on which
account, having previously left the kingdom, he never
returned.
MUSEUM.
The Museum, over the Market Hall, is well worthy
of a visit ; there is a good collection of birds, especially
British, many local Archaeological curiosities, some fine
Indian stone carvings, and there are few museums
which have such a well-arranged and interesting collec-
tion of fossils.
REPOSITORIES.
Mr. Kendall, the pupil and successor to the late
Mr. Wilcox (who was widely known for his talent as a
wood carver), follows successfully in his master's steps.
His w^orks are of great reputation, and no one should
omit a visit to this magnificent collection of carvings.
Messrs. Plucknett and Co., (the successors to
Messrs. Cookes and Sons, makers of the " Kenilworth
Buffet,") are worthily maintaining the reputation
acquired by their predecessors as manufacturers of
carved furniture.
At Messrs. Cooke and Son's Fine Art Eepository,
in the High Street, may be viewed a very extensive
collection of Photographs, and other requirements of
visitors, which are well worthy of an inspection.
SHAKESPEARE ENGLAND,
By William Wintek, beautifully illustrated, price 6/-
A smaller and cheaper edition of the same, without illustrations, 2/-
OUR OLD HOME !
A Series of English Sketches, by Nathaniel
Hawthorne, price 1/-
Shakespeare and his Birthplace.
Oblong 8vo, with lovely illustrations in color, 7/6
Warwick Castle : Its History and
Associations,
By the Eev. Thurston Eivington, Domestic Chaplain
to the Earl of Warwick, 1/-
JUDITH SHAKESPEARE,
By William Black, 2/6
William Shakespeare As He Lived.
The true story of Shakespeare's Life, woven into an
Historical Tale, by Captain Curling, 2/-
H. T. COOKE AND SON,
PUBLISHERS AND BOOKSELLERS,
9, HIGH STREET. WARWICK.
THE LARGEST SELECTION OF
HOTOGRAPHS
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stratford-on-av/on,
GuY's Gliffe, Leamington,
AND THE
Shakespeare Country.
IS TO BE EKN j^T
Pr)otio6rapl)ic o bores,
9, HIGH STREET, WARWICK.
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