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B M m3 IMD 



With its Castle 

AND Surroundings. 




Cooke's Guides and Photographs have 

^been supplied by command to Her Majesty 

the Queen; H.R.H. the Prince of Wales; 

H.R.H. the Duke of York; H.R.H. the 

Duchess of Teck; the late Shah of Persia; 

I the King of Saxony, etc., etc. 

These Photographs are now offered at a great Reduction from the 
4 Published Price. For particulars enquire of 

H. T. Cooke & Son, 9, Hig^h Street, Warwick. 

Rec'd UCB tNVI 

NOV 1 G 198a^^ 



JietD Series of Pl)otograpJ)0, 





The Parade, and Regent Hotel 2007 
The Parade, looking up the 

Street 2008 

Fountain in the Jephson 

Gardens, and the Pump 

Eoom 2010 

The Parish Church, Interior, 

looking East .. .. 2014 
Holly Walk and Avenue . . 2016 
View on the River Walk . . 2017 
St. Paul's Church, from the 

North-East .. .. 2018 



From the Bridge .. .. 2942 

By Moonlight 1359 

From the Ferry . . . . 2944 

The Entrance 29i5 

From the Outer Court . . 1362 

The River Front . . . . 1977 

View ill the Outer Court . . 1979 

The Portcullis 1364 

The Porter's Lodge . . . 1361 

The Inner Court, from the 

Mount 1980 

The Principal Front, from the 

Mouut 19S1 

Gatehouse and Caesar's Tower 19.'^2 
Gatehouse aud Guy's Tower 1933 
Entrance Porch aud Caesar's 

Tower 1981 

The Great Hall, looking West 1;)35 

The Great Hall, looking East 1986 
The State Dining Room . . 1987 

The Breakfast Room . . . . 1988 
The Red Drawing Room . . 1989 
The Cedar Drawing Room, 

looking West 
The Cedar Drawing Room, 


looking East 


Queen Anne's Bedroom 


The Warwick Vase 


The Cedars of Lebanon 


The Gilt Drawing Room 


The Boudoir . . . . . . 



From Church Street . . 


Interior of Nave 


Interior of the Chancel 


Crypt and Ducking Stool 


The Beauchamp Chapel, 

Interior, looking East . . 



The West Gate 


The Courtvard . . 


The Principal Front . . 


The Master's House . . 


The East Gate 


St. Mary's Church and Town, 

from Guy's Tower 


The Castle Mill on the Avon . . 


Emscote Church, from the 



Emscote Church, Interior ol 




DA (o^O 


From the Mill 2949 

From the River . . . . 2950 

The Avenue 1969 

Interior of the Chrtpel .. 1971 
The Mill, from the Eoad ..1972 

Gny's Well 635 

Guy's Cave 636 



From the Entraiipe . . 

.. 2955 

From the West.. 

.. 2024 

From the Bridge 

.. 2o25 

From the South-East.. 

.. 2026 

From the Echo Field. . 

.. 2027 

From the Road . . 

.. 2028 

Lancaster Buildings and Banquet 

Hall .. .. 

.. 2030 

Leicester's Buildings, and C 


Tower . . 

.. 2021 

Interior of the Banquet Hall 2034 
Mervyn'^s Bower . . . . 3287 

Entrance to the Great Hall.. 32b6 

Stoneleigh Abbey, the Principal 

Front, from the Garden 2039 


The Church . . 
Interior, looking East 

.. 2041 
.. 2042 


From the South-East. . . . 2043 
From the Tower of St. 

Michael's .. .. 2044 
Interior, looking East . . 2045 
Interior, looking West . . 2046 
TheReredos 2047 


From the South-East.. 
Interior, looking East 

View from the Green . . 
The Grey Friars Hospital 







From the East 2907 

From the West 2908 

The Museum 2910 

The House Place, No. 1 . . 2911 

The Room in which the Poet 

was Born 2063 


The South Side 2062 

Interior of the Chancel . . 2056 

Shakespeare's Moniiment . . 2057 
Inscriptions on the Tombs of 

the Shakespeare family 2058 
Avenue and North Porch . . 2059 

Church and River, from Memorial, 

No. 1 2886 

The Memorial, from the River 2900 
The Memorial Library . . 2904 

Washington Irving's Parlour, 
with Arm-Chair, Clock 

and Poker 2917 

The Grammar School' and 

Street 2064 

The Memorial Statue . . . . 3055 
The Stratford Picture of Shakes- 
peare, from the Original 
Picture .. .... 2G70 


From the Brook, at Shottery. . 2921 

Interior 2922 

The Bedstead 2923 

The Cottage 2u67 


Arden's Cottage, at 

Wilmcote 3295 

Charlecote, from the River . . 2924 
Hampton Lucy Church, from the 

Ha'Tiptou Lucy Church, Interior, 

looking East 
Sherbourne Church, from the 

Sherbourne Church, Interior, 

looking East 



rxj (L^UHyX^O 

L' X^l/j^rU 





From the Bridge .. .. 627 

The River Front . . . . 629 

View in the Outer Court . . 630 
The Inner Court, from the 

Mount 631 

The Gatehouse and Guy's 

Tower 632 

The Principal Front, from the 

Mount .. .. ..633 

The Great Hall, looking West 6^4 
The Great Hall, looking East 635 
The State Dining Eoom .. 636 
The Cedar Drawing Room . . 637 
From the Avon . . . . . . 291 

From the Outer Court . . 1173 

Entrance and Road in the 

Rock 2117 

Gateway and Portcullis . . 2120 
Gatehouse Tower, Bridge and 

Moat 2119 


Interior 2123 

Crypt and Ducking Stool . . 2124 
The Beauchamp Chapel, Interior, 

looking East, No. 2 . . 638 


The West Gate 1164 

The Courtyard 1165 

The King's School, from the 

River 1178 

The East Gate 2121 

The Castle Mill, on the Avon 639 


From the Mill 1181 

From Backwater . . . • 1182 

From the Road 641 

The House, from the Avon . . 286 



From the South . . . . 642 

From the Bridge . . . . 643 

From the Echo Field . • 644 

View in the Inner Court . . 645 

Leicester's Buildings and 

Cgesar's Tower .. .. 646 

The Banquet Hall . . . . 647 

Mervyn's Bower . . .. .. 2127 



The Church . . 
Interior, looking East . . 


From the South-East . . 
Interior, looking Bast . . 




View from the Green . . . . 648 



From the East 1142 

From the West .. .. .. 1143 

The Museum . . . . . . 1145 

The Room in which the Poet 

was born . . . . 661 


The Avenue 1136 

From the Avon . . .. .. 1126 

From the Island . . . . 1692 

The South Front . . . . 654 

Interior of the Chancel . . 657 

The Memorial, from the River. . 1139 
Washington Irving's Parlour, 
with Arm-Chair, Clock 

and Poker 1151 

The Church and Lock No. 2 . . 1132 

The House Place 1146 

The Stratford Portrait of 
Shakespeare, from the 
Original Picture . . 664 

Mary Arden's Cottage, at 

Wilmcote 2135 

Charlecote, from the River .. 1155 


The Cottage 1152 

Interior 1154 



The Parade and Eegent Hotel 226 
The Parade, looking up the 

Street 227 

View in the Jephson Gardens 228 
The Fountain in the Jephson 

Gardens .. .. ..229 

The Parish Church, from the 

Jephson Gardens . . 230 

The Parish Church, the South 

Front 231 

The Parish Church, Interior, 

looking East .. .. 232 
The Holly Walk and Avenue 233 
View on the River Walk . . 234 
St. Paul's Church, Interior, 

looking East .. ., 235 

Old Milverton Church 

.. 236 



From the Bridge . . . . 1173 

From the Park 202 

The River Front . . . . 203 

View in the Outer Court . . 204 
The Inner Court, from the 

Mount .. .. .. 205 

The Gatehouse and Guy's 

Tower 206 

Entrance Porch and Caesar's 

Tower 207 

The Principal Front, from the 

Mount 208 

The Great Hall, looking West 209 

The Great Hall, looking East 210 

The State Dining Room .. 211 

The Red Drawing Room . . 212 
Cedar Drawing Room, looking 

West 213 

Cedar Drawing Room, looking 

East 214 

The Green Drawing Room . . 215 

The Warwick Vase . . . . 216 


The Church and Church Street 218 
Interior of the Beauchamp 

Chapel 219 


TheWestgate 1171 

The Master's House . . . . 222 
The Courtyard 1172 

St. Mary's Church and Town from 

Guy's Tower .. ..217 

The Castle Mill, on the Avon „ . 223 

Emscote Church, from the South- 

East 224 

Emscote Church, Interior, looking 

East 225 


From the River 11 75 

Tne Avenue, from the Road . . 198 
Guy's Mill, from the Road . . 199 



From the Bridge .. ..1178 

View from Abbey Hill. . . . 237 

From the South 238 

From the Echo Field .. .. 241 

From the Road 242 

View in the Inner Court . . 243 
Leicester's Buildings and 

Cesar's Tower . . . . 244 
Leicester's Buildings and 

Lancaster Buildings .. 245 
Lancaster Buildings and 

Banquet Hall . . . . 246 

The Banquet Hall . . . . 247 

Interior of Banquet Hall . . 248 

Caesar's Tower 249 

Stoneleigh Abbey, from the 

River Bank . .,252 

Stoneleigh Abbey, the Principal 

Front, from the Garden 253 



The Church 255 

Interior, looking East .. .. 256 


From the Sonth-East 
From Tower of St. Michael' 
Interior, looking East 
Interior, looking West 
The Rereclos . . 


From the South-East 
Interior, looking East 




View from the Green 



From the West 1153 

From the East 274 

The Room in which Shakes- 
peare was born . . . . 276 


From the Memorial .. .. 1142 

From the North- West . . . . 267 

The Avenue and North Porch 269 

Interior, looking East . . . . 270 

Interior of Chancel .. .. 271 

Shakespeare's Monument . . 272 
Inscriptions on the Tombs of 

the Shakespeare family 273 

The Grammar School and 

Street 277 

The Guild Chapel and remains 

of New Place .. .. 278 

The Stratford Portrait of 
Shakespeare, from the 
Original Picture . . 282 

Mary Arden's Cottage, at 

Wilmcote 3295 


The Cottage 1159 

The Cottage, with Portrait of 

■ Old Lady 3294 

Interior 116.) 


From the Bridge . . ... 182 

From the Park 183 

The River Front . . . . 184 

Caesar's Tower, from the Park 185 

The Castle Mill, on the Avon 186 

12 '^ 9 

Guy's Cliffe, from the Mill . . 187 

Kenilworth Castle, from the 

Bridge 188 

The Stratford Portrait of Shakes- 
peare, from the Original 
Picture 189 

Stratford Church, from the 

River Bank . . . . 190 




Warwick Castle from the River, 

By DAVID LAW. The Finest Etching ever issued, Price £1 lis. 6d. 

A large stock of Etchings of the Neighbouphood-very cheap 



Warwick & Kenilworth Castles, 

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And every place of interest in tJu Neighbourhood, 


With 10 Steel Engravings, and about 200 Wood Engravings, 


A complete Guide, with an account of the Poefs Life, 



The Home of Shakespeare, 


With Illustrations, Sixpence. 

William Shakespeare As He Lived 

A most interesting Novel, founded on the Poet's Life. 


The siege of KENILWORTH 

And the Military Architecture of Warwick and 
Kenilworth Castles. 6d. 






The unabridged edition from the old copy in 
Warwick Castle. One Shilling. 

Sir Walter Scott's Novel of 'KENILWORTH.' 



^Nevil, the King Maker J, 
By Lord Lytton. Sixpence. 


By A. T. Quilter-Couch, 

WITH illustrations BY ALFRED PARSONS, 

12s. 6d. 


A Book of Fifteen Permanent 


OF WARWICK, &o. One Shillino. 


Publishers of Guides and Photographs, 


Guide to Warwick 

With its Castle 

AND Surroundings 



OF Guides and Photographs, 9, High Street, 


We would not detain our readers by adverting to 
the importance (at best conjectural) sought to be con- 
ferred on Warwick by antiquity. Some state that a 
fortress was erected by P. Ostorius Scapula, A.D. 50; 
others that it was the Praesidum Romanorum, and that 
a cohort of Dalmatian horse was placed here under the 
command of Dux Romanorum. Certain it is that, after 
the destruction of the town by the Danes, it w^as rebuilt, 
and taken under the especial protection of Ethelfleda, 
the spirited and accomplished daughter of Alfred the 
great. This princess, who married Ethelred, Earl of 
Mercia, laid the foundation of the Castle in the year 915. 
In 1016, during a successful incursion of the Danes under 
Canute, the fortifications of the Castle and town were 
nearly demolished. They, however, quickly arose from 
their ruins ; and, at the time of the Conquest, Warwick 
is mentioned in the Domesday Book as a Borough 
containing '216 houses, and was evidently regarded as a 
place of some importance, as orders were given to 
repair and fortify the town and castle of Warwick. 
This was carried into effect by surrounding the town 
with a strong wall and ditch, and by enlarging the 



Eous, the Warwickshire antiquary gravely assures 
us that Warwick hath had its Earls ever since the reign 
of the renowned King Arthur, w^hen Arthgal or Artigalth 
first enjoyed the honour, and furnishes us with a list of 
the succeeding Earls from ancient British chronicles, 
and in this he is partly followed by Dugdale. We do 
not consider it necessary to give an account of the 
various Saxon Earls, but it would be unpardonable to 
avoid mention of the redoubtable Guy, who, we are 
told, married Felicia, daughter and heiress of Eohand, 
a great warrior in the time of Alfred, and in her right 
became Earl of Warwick. 

This renowned champion is said to have been the son 
of Siw^ard, Baron of Wallingford, and according to belief 
his height exceeded nine feet. Among other instances 
of his prowess, it is related that he slew a Saracen giant 
in single combat ; killed a wild boar, an enormous dun 
cow, and even a green dragon.''' Guy at last retired to 
Guy's Cliffe, near Warwick, where he lived the life of a 
hermit, till his death in 929. t 

* A reprint, in English, of the famous and curious old French 
book in the library of Warwick Castle, of the adventures of Guy, 
Earl of Warwick, may be had of the Publishers of this book. 
Price Is. 

f For the account of a curious inscription lately discovered in 
Guy's Cave, and said by experts to have been engraved by Guy 
himself, see the large edition ot this Guide. 


At the time of the Conquest, Turchil (descended 
from the famous Guy) was Earl ; but although a noble- 
man of vast power, he gave no assistance to Harold, 
in opposition to Duke William, for which reason he was 
allowed quiet possession of his vast estates, and was 
even employed to enlarge and fortify the castle and 
town, but he was soon after deprived of his earldom. 
The town having been thus fortified by order of the 
Conqueror with ditch and gates and the castle repaired 
and enlarged, which before consisted of little more 
than the dungeon, bailt by order of Ethelfleda upon the 
artificial mound of earth near the river side ; the custody 
of this strong place was committed by the King to 
Henry de Newburgh, whom he advanced to the rank and 
dignity of Earl of Warwick, and bestowed on him the 
castle, the manor of Warwick, and the royalty of the 
borough. Henry de Newbukgh, the first Earl of 
Warwick, who took his name from the castle of 
Newburgh, in Normandy, attended the Conqueror to 
England, was one of those who effected the reconciliation 
between William I. and his son Robert, and was the 
chief instrument in raising Henry, the King's youngest; 
son, to the throne, on the death of William Rufus, 
He began making Wedgnock Park, near Warwick, in 
imitation of Woodstock Park, made just before by 
Henry I. and which was the first land emparked in 
England, He died in 1123, was buried in the abbey of 
Preux, in Normandy, and succeeded by his son Roger 
DE Newburgh, who was a witness to King Stephen's 
laws, and conquered Gowerland in Wales. He founded 
several religious houses in Warwick, and was accounted 


a pious man. He married the daughter of William 
Earl of Warren (who, on the arrival of Henry, Duke of 
Normandy, afterwards Henry II., turned out King 
Stephen's soldiers who then manned the garrison, and 
delivered it up to Henry), and dying, was succeeded by 
his son, William de Newburgh. This Earl appears to 
have lived in regal splendour ; he founded two hospitals 
in Warwick, and built a new church for the Templars 
there. He died in the Holy Land, 1184, and was 
succeeded by his brother, Walleran de Newburgh, of 
whom history mentions little. He died 1205. Henry 
DE Newburgh was a minor when he succeeded his father 
and was committed to the care of Thomas Bassett, of 
Heddington, near Oxford. This Earl strictly adhered 
to King John in all his wars with the barons, notwith- 
standing that monarch had seized on the seigniory of 
Gower, in Wales, during the Earl's minority, and 
bestowed it on William de Braose. He died 1229, and 
was succeeded by his son, Thomas de Newburgh, who 
had not full possession of the earldom until four years 
after the death of his father. This Earl married the 
daughter of William Longespe, Earl of Salisbury, son 
of Henry II., and died without issue. Margery de 
Newburgh, heiress to the earldom, was married first to 
John Mareschal, of the family of the Earls of Pembroke, 
and secondly, by the special appointment of Henry III., 
to John de Plessetis, who, in right of his wife, took 
upon him the title of Earl of Warwick, in 1247, and in 
the following year the King afforded him the title of 
Comes Warwici, which from that time he constantly 
used. At the decease of his countess, without children, 


the inheritance reverted to her aunt Alice, daughter of 
Walleran, who had been married to Wilham Mauduit, 
Baron of Hanslape, by whom she left a son and heir, 
William Mauduit, who on the death of John de Plessetis 
became Earl of Warwick. In the war between Henry 
III. and the Barons, he was a firm adherent of the King, 
and was unfortunately surprised in his castle at War- 
wick, by John Gifford, governor of Kenilworth, on the 
part of the Barons, when the walls of the castle were 
demolished from tower to tower, the Earl and his 
Countess taken prisoners to Kenilworth, and obliged to 
pay 1900 marks for his ransom. He died without issue, 
and left Isabel, his sister, married to William de Beau- 
champ, sole heiress to his title and estates. William 
DE Beauchamp, heir of the noble family of the Beau- 
champs (which at the Conquest was considered one of 
the principal families in Normandy, and who, coming 
over with the Conqueror, had for their services, and by 
intermarriage, obtained immense possessions and privi- 
leges in England), became heir to the Earldom in right 
of his wife, but she having entered a nunnery, they never 
assumed the title; he died in 1269, leaving his eldest 
son, William de Beauchamp, to succeed him. This 
Earl enjoyed the title in right of his mother, during his 
father's lifetime, as appears from his father's will. His 
services were almost continually employed by the Crown 
in Scotland and Wales, and he was one of the Governors 
of Prince Edward, then a minor, during the time Edward 
I. was employed in the Netherlands. He died in 1298, 
and was succeeded by his eldest son, Guy de Beau- 
champ, who the same year, attended the King in Scot- 



land, and for his valour in the battle of Falkirk, received 
all the castles of Geoffrey de Mowbray, lying in that 
kingdom, except the lordship of Okeford, and all the 
lands of John de Strivelin. He served Edward I. several 
years in this country, for which he was rewarded with 
Bernard Castle, together with the manor of Middleton 
and its chases, and the manor of Gainsford, with other 
lands belonging to John de Baliol, then the King's 
enemy. He was one of the noblemen who seized Piers 
Gaveston, the haughty favourite of Edward IT., whom 
he conveyed to Warwick Castle, and in conjunction with 
three other Earls, to Blacklow Hill, near Warwick, 
where they beheaded him. Earl Guy long entertained 
an invincible hatred against Gaveston, for having fixed 
on him the insulting epithet of ' ' The Black Hound of 
Arden." He died at Warwick Castle, 1315, as most 
thought by poison, and was succeeded by Thomas de 
Beauchamp, who being scarcely two years old at the 
time of his father's death, was committed to the custody 
of Hugh le Despencer, but after the ruin of that 
favourite, in the beginning of the next reign, the custody 
was obtained by Eoger Lord Mortimer. At the age of 
17, by special favour, the King received his homage, 
and before he was twenty, was made Governor of 
Guernsey and the islands adjacent. He was one of 
the marshals of the King's army in France, and one of 
the chief commanders who, under the Black Prince, led 
the van of the English army at Cressy. At Poictiers 
he fought so gallantly that his hand was severely galled 
with plying his sword and battle axe ; he afterwards 
made a progress into the east, warring against the 


infidels. He rebuilt the walls of Warwick Castle, 
founded the choir of St. Mary's, and made the town 
toll-free. 43 Edward III., hearing that the English 
army, under the Duke of Lancaster, lay perishing with 
famine and pestilence in their camp, and yet refused to 
fight the French, who pressed them close, old as he 
then was, he hastily collected some choice troops, and 
sailed for Calais, where his bare appearance dispersed 
the French, whom he pursued in their retreat. This 
truly great man was seized with the pestilence in 
Calais, and died 1370, 'aged 63. His body was brought 
over and buried in the middle of the choir of St. Mary's, 
at Warwick. Thomas Beauchamp, second son of the 
last Earl, succeeded to the earldom in consequence of 
his brother's death. He was chosen Governor to Eichard 
II. , and in concert with the Duke of Gloucester (whose 
life the King sought), constrained the King to call a 
Parliament, in which laws were enacted for the better 
government of the kingdom. In two years after, the 
Earl was deprived of his offices, and dismissed the court, 
when he retired to Warwick, built the tower now called 
Guy's Tower (costing £395 5s. 2d.), and finished the 
body of St. Mary's Church, 1394. Though in retirement 
he was still an object of jealousy to his enemies : 
being invited to a feast by the King, he came in an 
unguarded manner, was seized as a prisoner, and con- 
demned to lose his head for having been in arms against 
the King. This sentence was remitted, however, but he 
was banished for life, and his lands granted to Thomas 
Holland, Earl of Kent. In the same year he was 
brought back and confined in the Tower ; but at the 


revolution he was reinstated in his rights. He died 
1401, and was succeeded by his son, Eichard de Beau- 
champ, who had for his godfather Eichard II,, and was 
one of the most considerable persons in this kingdom in 
the 15th century. At the coronation of Henry IV., he 
was made a Knight of the Bath when only nineteen 
years of age, and Knight of the Garter at twenty-three. 
In the next year he marched with the forces to suppress 
the rebellion of Owen Glendowr, whose standard he took 
in open battle. At the coronation of Henry V. he was 
constituted Lord High Steward ; 1415 Captain of Calais 
and Governor of the Marches of Picardy ; 1417 created 
Earl of Albermarle. He was appointed by Henry V, to 
the tutelage of his son, then an infant ; and called from 
France by Parliament, after the death of Henry V., to 
take upon him the government of the young King. 
14 Henry VI. he was appointed Eegent of France, and 
Lieutenant-General of the King's forces in that realm 
and the Duchy of Normandy. He died in the Castle of 
Eoan, 1439, and his body brought over to England, and 
laid in a chest of stone before the altar of St. Mary's, at 
Warwick, until a chapel and tomb (the most costly and 
beautiful in the kingdom, Henry VII. at Westminster 
excepted), adjoining St. Mary's, at Warwick, could be 
finished, wherein he was then laid with great solemnity. 
Henry de Beauchamp succeeded his father when little 
more than 14 years of age ; even then he had for some 
time been married to the daughter of Eichard Nevil, 
Earl of Salisbury. When not yet 19 years of age he 
tendered his services to Henry VI. in defence of the 
Duchy of Aquitain, for which the King created him 


Premier Earl of England; and, within three days, 
advanced him to the rank of Duke of Warwick, with 
precedence next to the Duke of Norfolk. After this the 
Duke had a grant in reversion of the Islands of Guernsey, 
Jersey, Sarke, Erme, and Alderney, for the yearly tribute 
of a rose ; and the King further to express his affection 
declared him King of the Isle of Wight, and placed the 
crown on the Duke's head with his own hands. He 
survived these mighty honours but a short time, dying 
in 14:4:5, at the age of 22. He had an only child Anne, 
who died before she attained the age of six years, 
leaving her aunt Anne, sister to Henry, Duke of 
Warwick, heiress to the Earldom. 

EiCHARD Nevil now assumed the title of Earl of 
Warwick, in right of his wife, Anne. This Earl so well 
known in English history by the title of "The King- 
Maker," finding himself of consequence enough to hold 
the balance between the families of York and Lancaster, 
rendered England during the reign of his power, a scene of 
bloodshed and confusion ; and made or unmade kings of 
this or that house as best suited his passions, pleasures, 
or interests. His life was passed in wars and broils, 
destructive to his family and country, and he was slain 
in the battle of Barnet, 1471, which battle he fought 
against Edward IV., endeavouring to replace Henry VI. 
on that throne from which, a few years before, he had 
hurled him. He left two daughters : Isabel, married 
to George, Duke of Clarence ; and Anne, married to 
Edward, Prince of Wales, son to Henry VI., by 
whom she had no issue, and afterwards to Eichard, 


Duke of Gloucester (afterwards Eichard III.), who 
killed the prince, her first husband, in cold blood 
after the battle of Tewkesbury, and, when king, 
poisoned her, to secure the throne by marrying his 
brother's daughter, 

George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, in con- 
sideration of his marriage with Isabel, was by his brother, 
Edward IV., created Earl of Warwick and Salisbury. 
He began to beautify and increase the Castle, and pro- 
jected many and important improvements, both in the 
castle and town, but falling under the suspicion of his 
brother, he was imprisoned in the Tower of London, 
attainted of high treason before Parliament, and drowned 
in a butt of Malmsey wine, his brother, the Duke of 
Gloucester, assisting thereat. He had issue two sons, 
the eldest, Edward, succeeding to the earldom. 

In 3 Henry VII. an Act was passed recalling the 
Countess Anne, widow of Richard Nevil, and restoring 
her to the inheritance of her family'; but this was a 
refinement of cruelty, for shortly after obtaining posses- 
sion, she was forced to transfer to the king, by special 
deed, the immense possessions of the family, amounting 
at that time to 114 lordships, and the islands of Jersey, 
Guernsey, Sarke and Aldemey. After the death of this 
lady, Edward Plantagenet succeeded to the earldom, 
but an unhappy fortune pursued him from a child : he 
was confined by Richard III. in the castle of Sheriff- 
Hutton until the battle of Bosworth Field, when Henry 
VII. caused him to be removed to the Tower of London, 
and confined more closely than ever, although his only 


crime was that of being the only Plantagenet living. 
He was at the age of twenty-five, arraigned for high 
treason, and by a promise of mercy prevailed upon to 
acknowledge himself guilty of entering into conspiracy 
with Perkin Warbeck ; this sealed his fate : he was con- 
victed on his own confession, and beheaded on Tower 
Hill, 1499, and to prevent the claim of any who might 
be his heirs an attainder was passed against him. 

The title now lay dormant for a period of 48 years, 
when in 1547 it was revived in favour of John Dudley, 
Viscount Lisle, who was descended from Eichard Beau- 
champ, Earl of Warwick. Feb. 16, 1 Edward VI., by 
letters patent, he had the dignity of Earl of Warwick 
conferred upon him, together with the castle, Wedgnock 
Park, the manor of Warwick, &c. ; he was made Lord 
High Chamberlain for life ; elected one of the Knights 
of the Garter; 4 Edward VI. made General Warden of 
the North, and 6th year of that King's reign raised to 
the dignity of Duke of Northumberland. He was 
attainted in the first Parliament of Queen Mary for high 
treason, in attempting to place Lady Jane Grey, his 
daughter-in-law, on the throne, and was beheaded on 
Tower Hill, 1553. Ambrose Dudley, third son of the 
last Earl having obtained a reversion of the attainder, 
was, on Christmas Day, 1557, created Viscount Lisle, 
and two days after, by a new creation, Earl of Warwick. 
He was Master of the Ordnance, Lieutenant-General of 
Normandy, Chief Butler of England, Knight of the 
Garter, and Privy Counsellor. He married three wives, 
but dying without issue 1589, the title became again 


extinct, and the inheritance reverted once more to the 
crown, but was renewed in 1618 in favour of Eobert 
Lord Eich. This Earl not being descended from the 
old family, never held the estates nor did he long enjoy 
his honours, dying about eight months after his eleva- 
tion, and being succeeded by his eldest son, Egbert 
Eich, who was Lord High Admiral of England for the 
Long Parliament. He was a man of pleasing conversa- 
tion and fascinating manners, and enjoyed the confidence 
of Cromwell more than any other man. In the negotia- 
tion with the king in 1645, one of the conditions proposed 
by the Parliament was the elevation of this Earl to a 
Dukedom. He died in 1658, and was succeeded by his 
son Egbert Eich, who survived his father but one year ; 
his only son, Eobert, married Francis, youngest daughter 
of the Protector Cromwell, but died without issue in his 
father's lifetime. Charles, brother to the above, now 
succeeded to the title, but his only son dying during the 
father's lifetime, the earldom was united with that of 
Holland, by the succession to the title of Egbert Eich, 
Earl of Holland. He died in 1675, and the title 
descended in succession to Edward Eich, who died in 
1701; Edward Henry Eich, who died in 1721; and 
Edward Eich, who died 1759, without male issue, and 
the title became a third time extinct. 

Fulke Greville, who was born 1554, and received 
his juvenile education with the great Sir Philip Sidney, 
his cousin, at the school of Shrewsbury, bought up claims 
on the manor of Wedgnock, which were granted in 
plenitas by Queen Elizabeth. In James II. he obtained 


a grant of Warwick Castle, which was then in a ruinous 
state (the stronger parts being used as a county gaol), 
and at an expense of £20,000, restored it ; he also pur- 
chased and planted the Temple grounds on the left bank 
of the river, and 18 James I. he was advanced to the 
peerage as Lord Brooke. A man of letters himself, he 
sought out and patronized that merit in others. This 
great and good man was stabbed by his servant in his 
bedroom, and died of his wounds, September 30, 1628 : 
he was buried in St. Mary's Church, Warwick. Dying 
without issue, he was succeeded by his first cousin's son, 
EoBERT Greville, who married a daughter of Francis, 
Earl of Bedford. He was one of the first who openly 
exclaimed against the measures adopted by the Court 
of Charles I., and taking up arms against that monarch, 
was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the counties of 
Warwick and Stafford. The Castle of Warwick being 
besieged by the Eoyalists, under the Earl of Northamp- 
ton, Lord Brooke hastened from London with reinforce- 
ments, and raised the siege, to the joy of Sir E. Pieto, 
who, with a small garrisoQ, and poor supply of artillery, 
had held the post for the period of 10 days. After doing 
great and important service at the battle of Edge-hill, 
he was killed by a shot in the right eye, on March 1, 
1643, while forcing the position held by Lord Chesterfield, 
at Lichfield, and was succeeded by his son, Francis 
Greville, who died unmarried in the same year as his 
father, and was succeeded by his brother Robert 
Greville. This Lord Brooke was instrumental in 
effecting the restoration of Charles 11. ; and was one of 
the six lords sent over to Holland, with the humble 


invitation of Parliament, that his Majesty would return 
and take the government of the kingdom into his hands. 
He had six sons, all of whom died young, and he, at 
his death in 1676, was succeeded by his brother, Fulke 
Greville, who held the title until 1710, when he was 
succeeded by his son, William Greville . At his death 
in 1727, Francis Greville, his son succeeded to the 
title, and in July, 1746, was raised to the dignity of an 
Earl by the title of Earl Brooke, of Warwick Castle ; in 
1753, he was made a Knight of the Thistle ; in November 
1759, created Earl of Warwick, and obtained a special 
grant, April, 2, 1760, for bearing the crest of the ancient 
earls of that name, namely a bear erect, argent, muzzled 
gules, supporting a ragged staff of the first. He died 
1775, and was succeeded by his son George Greville. 
To this nobleman the town is indebted for some of its 
most valuable improvements. He erected the bridge 
over the Avon, opened the approaches to the town, 
formed the present rocky road to the Castle, enlarged 
the park, and surrounded the Castle with its spacious 
lawns and luxurious shnibs. He died in 1816, and was 
succeeded by his son, Henry Richard Greville. This 
nobleman, who was Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotu- 
lorum of the County of Warwick, and Colonel of the 
Warwick Militia, married the relict of the fifth Lord 
Monson, and dying in 1853, was succeeded by the present 
Earl, George Guy Greville, who was born March 28, 
1818, and married, February 18, 1852, the Lady Anne 
Charteris, second daughter of the Earl of Wemyss, and 
has issue four sons and one daughter. 


The present approach to the Castle commences with 
a recently-erected embattled gateway, called the Porter's 
Lodge, passing through which the visitor enliers a fine 
broad road, deeply cut through the solid rock ; the ample 
branches of foliage forming a canopy above, while beneath 
the moss and ivy, creeping in fertile wildness, form a 
picture at once romantic and pleasing. Proceeding about 
100 yards, a sudden turn in the road brings the visitor 
to the outer court (formerly a vineyard, and where, so far 
back as the time of Henry IV., the rich clusters of grapes 
are said to have come to considerable perfection) : where 
the stupendous line of fortifications, with the " cloud 
cap't towers," breaks suddenly on the sight in all its 
bold magnificence, seeming, firmly joined as it is to its 
rocky foundation, to bid defiance to the all-subduing 
power of time. On the right is the fine polygon tower, 
dedicated to Earl Guy, having walls ten feet thick, and 
a base of thirty feet in diameter, and rising to a height 
of 128 feet. On the left is the venerable Cassar's Tower, 
said to be coeval with the Norman Conquest ; and 
although it has braved the ravages of time, and the 


depredations of man for nearly 800 years, still continues 
as firm as the rock on which it is founded. It is con- 
nected with Guy's Tower by a strong embattled wall, 
in the centre of which is the ponderous arched gateway, 
flanked by towers, and succeeded by a second gateway, 
with towers and battlements rising far above the first. 
These were formerly defended by two portcullises, one 
of which still remains in use. Before the whole is a now 
disused moat, with an arch thrown over at the gateway, 
where formerly was the drawbridge. 

Passing the double gateway, the visitor enters the 
inner couf t, where a scene is presented to the view which 
excites feelings of admiration. The spacious area of the 
court is clothed by a carpet of rich green sward. On the 
left stands the grand irregular castellated mansion of the 
feudal barons of Warwick. Uninjured by time, it still 
retains that bold, irregular outline so peculiar to the 
ancient castellated style ; on the left is Caesar's tower : 
in the front is the mount or keep, clothed from its base 
to its summit with trees and shrubs. The top of the 
mount is crowned with towers and battlements, in the 
centre of which is a gateway closed by an iron grating, 
the light breaking through which relieves the heaviness 
of the battlements, and produces a charming effect. On 
the right appear two unfinished towers, one of which is 
the Bear Tower, begun by Kichard III. : and at the 
extreme termination is the lofty and commanding Guy's 
Tower, the whole range being joined by ramparts and 
embattled walls of amazing thickness. Open flights of 
steps and broad walks on the top of the walls form a 


means of communication throughout the whole of the 
fortress. The scene is grand, and so perfect the fascina- 
tion that it would be difficult to say what might be added 
that would improve, or what might be taken away that 
would not injure the effect of the whole. 


On Advent Sunday, 1871, a fire broke out in the 
Castle, which, before it was suppressed, consumed the 
whole eastern portion, including the Great Hall, with its 
priceless treasures. The pictures, library of books, and 
some of the antiques in the private apartments were 
fortunately preserved, but many unfortunately fell a prey 
to the flames. The building has, however, undergone a 
most judicious restoration at the hands of Mr. Salvin, 
the eminent architect ; and many architectural features, 
which were walled up or covered with plaster, are now 
exposed to view. The armour, also, has been restored 
under the judicious treatment of Mr. Syers, of London, 
and is now arranged around the Great Hall. 

Here are found a collection of complete suits of 
armour, a fine suit of horse armour, specimens of two- 
handed swords ; the armour belonging to Lord Brooke, 
^ commander of the Parliamentarian army, who was 
killed at the siege of Lichfield ; an enormous arquebuse, 
taken from a French ship of war; and an excellent 
collection of iron head-pieces of different nations and 


The relics of that hero of antiquity Guy, Earl of 
Warwick, have been removed to the Great Hall from the 
Porter's Lodge, where they were formerly kept. The 
sword (the custody of which was, in the reign of Henry 
VIII., committed to William Hoggeson, yeoman of the 
buttery, with a salary of 2d. per day), shield, helmet, 
breastplate, walking staff, aud tilting pole, all of enor- 
mous size, the horse armour, on which is an inscription 
nearly obliterated, is evidently of later date. A large 
pot, called "Guy's porridge pot," his flesh fork, and his 
lady's stirrups. Although the armour may not have a 
right to the antiquity claimed for it, yet, says Gilpin, 
" they are no improper appendages to the place, as they 
give the imagination a kind of tinge, which throws an 
agreeable romantic colour on all the vestiges of this 
venerable pile." 

From the Great Hall, a view is obtained, at a single 
glance, of the grand suite of state rooms on the one side, 
and domestic apartments on the other, extending in a 
straight line 333 feet, terminated at the western ex- 
tremity by a window. From the Great Hall is also seen 
with good effect, hanging at the end of the chapel pas- 
sage, the celebrated painting, by Vandyck, of Charles I. 
This is a splendid figure, and at the distance nearly 
resembles life ; it was given by Prince Charles of Lorraine 
to Lord Waldegrave, and was purchased by the father 
of the late Earl of Warwick. Sir Joshua Reynolds is 
said to have offered 500 guineas for it. 

The prospect from the south windows is one of the 
most delightful the country can boast ; the soft classic 
Avon (a branch from which, dividing here, and entering 


the main stream a distance below, forms before the 
window a fertile little island), falling with a " soothing 
somid " over a cascade 100 feet below, laves the fomida- 
tion of the Castle, and continues its meandering way to 
the right through the extensive and highly cultivated 
park — sheep and cattle grazing in peaceful security on 
its banks — the undulating foliage of forest trees of every 
hue, intermingling with the stately cedar spreading its 
curiously-feathered branches — and the verdant lawns, 
where nature and art appear to have expended their 
treasures — combine to form a landscape of surpassing 

The Red Drawing Room contains a magnificent 
Venetian Mirror, in a quaint and rich frame; and 
besides other objects of interest, the following 
paintings : — Van Trump, A Dutch Burgomaster, 
(commonly called Van Tromp), by Vandyck ; Thomas 
Howard, Earl of Arundel, by Rubens (this magnificent 
picture is considered by Sir Thomas Lawrence 
the best in the collection) ; The Assumption of the 
Virgin, by Raphael; Amhrosio, Marquis de Spinola, 
by Rubens ; Wife of Snyder, by Vandyck ; over the fire- 
place, a curious clock; on the mantelpiece, two 
sacrificial vessels called Prafericula ; and an Urn of 
bronze and antique. On a buhl table the Lion of St. 
Maik, and some candelabra of chaste design in ormolu. 
On the right a handsome cabinet of tortoiseshell and 
ivory, formerly belonging to the Spinola family, and 
bearing their arms. On the left a cabinet inlaid with 
pearl, and supporting a valuable image in green basalt, 
brought from Egypt. Between the windows is a 


beautiful table of Pietra Commessa, which formerly 
belonged to Marie Antoinette ; opposite to this are buhl 
cabinets, containing some scarce and beautiful specimens 
of Limousin enamel, examples of which, as well as 
ancient bronzes, marbles, Etruscan vases, vessels of 
crystal and Bohemian glass, &c., are arranged on various 
tables and cabinets, in this and the other apartments. 

The Cedar Drawing Eoom is a noble room, 47 feet 
by 25. The furniture is antique : the mirrors and screens 
very fine, and the marble chimney-piece (said to be the 
only specimen of the kind in England) is exceedingly 
beautiful. A Florentine table opposite the fire-place, 
inlaid with lava of Vesuvius, supports a marble bust 
from the Giustiniani Minerva, at Eome, flanked by two 
Etruscan vases. A table of black and white antique 
Egyptian marble stands at either end of the room ; the 
one at the west end supporting an exquisite bust of 
Proserpine, by Hiram Power, the sculptor of the Greek 
Slave ; and one in metal of Charles I., supposed to have 
been the model of one in marble, made by Bernini, for 
Henrietta Maria. Etruscan vases of great value are 
placed on old inlaid cabinets in various parts of the 
room. In the centre of the room is an ancient table of 
inlaid marble, brought from the Grimani Palace at 
Venice. On either side of the fire-place are busts of the 
late Earl of Warwick, by Nollekins, and the late Countess 
of Warwick, by Bonelli. Over the mantel-piece is a 
magnificent Venetian mirror. The following paintings 
adorn the walls : — Henrietta Maria, Wife of Charles I., 
by Vandyck ; Charles I., by Vandyck, half-length ; Bohert 


Bich, Earl of Warivick, by Old Stone; James Graham, 
Marquis of Montrose, by Vandyck ; Duke of Newcastle, 
Vandyck School ; The Princess de Santa Croce, by 
Vandyck ; A Lady and her little Boy, supposed to be 
two of the Brignola Family, by Vandyck. Over the 
east and west doors, portraits of Tioo of the Beauties of 
Charles II., by Lely. 

The walls and ceiling of the Gilt (or Geeen) 
Drawing Eoom are divided into panels, and superbly 
gilt. On the mantel-piece are a bronze horse, lava 
vases, &c. The paintings in this room comprise — 
Portrait of a Warrior, by Moroni : Earl of Strafford, by 
Vandyck; Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, by 
Dobson ; Lord William Bussell ; Portrait of a Cavalier 
General in Armour, by Vandyck ; A Lady, by Sir Peter 
Lely ; Charles J., by a French painter; Earl of Strafford 
when young, by Hanneman; Henrietta Maria, by a 
French painter; Portrait of the Marqtds of Huntley, 
school of Vandyck ; Bobert Bertie, Earl of Lindsay, by 
C. Jansen ; A fine portrait, by Adrian Hanneman ; 
William, Lord Brooke, by Dahl ; Portrait of a Boy, by 
Vandyck ; Portrait of a French Nobleman, by Vandyck ; 
Lady Brooke, by Dahl ; Portrait of a Girl, by Dosso 
Dossi ; Prince Bupert, by Vandyck ; Earl of Cambridge, 
painter unknown ; over the doors — Three sons of Bobert, 
Lord Brooke ; near the west door — St. John Baptising 
our Saviour, painted on the root of amethyst. In this 
room is also placed the celebrated painting by Eubens, 
of Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Order of the Jesuits. 
This picture was originally painted for the Jesuits' 



College, at Antwerp, and belonged to that college until 
the period of the French Eevolution : it is esteemed by 
competent judges to be of superlative value. The left 
hand is laid upon a volume, supported by a pedestal, 
on which is inscribed: *'ad mai — orem dei gloriam 


SOLVTIONEM iMPTi ESSE EBER ;" [sic] the right hand is 
raised as if in the act of prayer ; the eyes lifted to a 
burst of light in the midst of dark clouds : the counten- 
ance fine and deeply marked by enthusiasm ; the action 
dignified and natural : the right foot advanced, and so 
admirably foreshortened, as to appear as if projecting 
from the canvas ; the robes magnificent, and disposed 
with easy grace. This wonderful picture is, without 
doubt, the gem of the collection. In the centre of the 
room, on a richly-carved and gilt stand, is the superb 
table brought from the Grimani Palace, at Venice, by 
the British Consul, Mr. Money, for the late Earl of 
Warwick. It was well known as the " Grimani Table," 
being made expressly for that noble Venetian family, 
eminent in the history of that State, having supplied the 
Commonwealth with several Dukes, and the Church 
with two Cardinals. The family arms are worked in the 
corners with the precious and valuable stones with which 
the surface is inlaid. This table is entirely of pietra 
■ dura, and was universally considered one of the finest 
in Italy. In this room is also a cinque-cento statue in 
white marble, of the Faun Marsyas, and two Italian 
marriage chests in wood, gilt and painted by some early 
Italian artist, brought from Venice. On a brass-mounted 


Casket, near the west door, is a curious mask, said to 
be of Socrates ; and on a buhl table, near the window, 
a Venus modelled in wax, by John of Bologna. Several 
specimens of buhl furniture, supporting ebony cases, 
carved and mounted in silver, a fine mosaic Cabinet, 
and other articles of vertu, are also scattered about the 
room. Concealed behind the wainscot there is a secret 
descending stairs. 

The bed and furniture in the State Bed Eoom are 
of red crimson velvet, and formerly belonged to Queen 
Anne : a present from George III. to the Warwick 
family. The walls are hung with finely preserved 
tapestry, made at Brussels in 1604 ; the subject upon 
them is supposed to be the Gardens at Versailles, as they 
were at that time. A rich cabinet of inlaid marqueterie, 
Japan bowls, Etruscan vases, &c., are placed in various 
parts of the room. The chimney piece is of verd antique 
and white marble, executed by Westmacott, and sup- 
ports two black marble vases on its mantle, while above 
is a full length portrait of Queen A?ine, in a rich brocade 
dress, wearing the collar and jewel of the Order of the 
Garter, painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Over the west 
door, portrait of Owe of the Thynne family , by Frederigo 
Zucchero ; and over the east door, The Duke of Mon- 
mouth, painter unknown. In the bay of the window 
stands a leather chest, with the arms of Queen Anne, 
and opposite the bed is the toilet table as prepared for 
the use of her present Majesty during her visit to the 
Earl of Warwick, bearing a collection of rare Venetian 
glass, and two magnificent crystal flasks. 


The Boudoir is a lovely little room, forming the 
western extremity of the suite of rooms. The prospects 
from the windows are extremely fine, and the walls 
studded with paintings. Amongst others may be named : 
— Portrait of Henry VIII., by Hans Holbein; Barbara 
Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland, by Lely ; A Boar Hunt, 
by Eubens ; A Duel Piece, by Hugtenburgh ; William 
Russell, first Duke of Bedford ; and the first Duchess of 
Bedford; Francis, second Earl of Bedford ; A Pietra, or 
Dead Christ, by Lodovico Caracci ; St. Stephen, by 
Lorenzo di Credi ; St. John, a companion to the above ; 
a curious picture of A Saint, by Andrea del Sarto, and 
a companion to the same ; portrait of One of the Beauties 
of the Court of Charles II., by Lely ; Henry IV. of 
France, by William Patoun ; Henry VIII., when a Boy, 
by Vandyck; portrait of A Girl, said to be one of Robert, 
Lord Brooke's children ; a beautiful little picture of St. 
Sebastian, by Vandyck ; An old Woman eating Pottage, 
by Gerhard Douw ; Mrs. Digby in the dress of a Lady 
Abbess; Head of St. Jerome, by Eubens; Card Players, 
by Teniers ; A Madomia and Child, by Barrochio ; One 
of the Beauties of the Court of Charles II., by Lely; 
Landscape, by Salvator Eosa, and Companion to the 
same ; A sketch of the Four Evangelists, by Eubens, a 
highly valuable picture ; Mary Boleyn, by Hans Holbein, 
and Anne Boleyn, by the same artist. On a table is 
placed a cinque-cento statue of the Faun Marsyas, from 
the collection of the late Major-General Sir C. J. Greville, 
K.C.B. In this room are also groups modelled in terra- 
cotta by Pinelli, of Eome, bronze casts, buhl, ormolu, 
and marqueterie tables and stands ; and also a beautiful 


cloch, with twelve curious and highly-finished enamels, 
one to each hour, representing the twelve principal 
events in the life of our Saviour ; they are of rare pink 
enamel, set in silver, and the drawing of the figures is 
graceful, elegant, and finished by some perfect master's 

The effect of these apartments is considerably height- 
ened by the harmony observed in the matchless collec- 
tion of pure antique furniture throughout the whole 
suite of state apartments. Superb cabinets, encoigneurs, 
caskets, and tables of buhl and marqueterie, of the most 
costly finish — splendid ormolu, crystal, china, and lava 
cups, flasks, and vases — Etruscan vases — marble and 
jnetra dura tables — bronzes and busts, displaying the 
utmost efforts of art — costly Bijoutiers and rare antiques 
are scattered through the room in rich profusion, yet 
with exquisite taste — no innovation of the modern is 
allowed to injure the effect of the ancient — all is costly 
all is rare, yet all is harmonious. 

From the Boudoir a door fitting the wainscot opens 
into The Armoury Passage, which contains a rare 
collection of curiosities of great value ; one of the finest 
collections of ancient armour in the kingdom, as a 
private collection we believe unique ; and a large collec- 
tion of fossils and petrifactions, bronzes, busts, &c., far 
too numerous even to attempt to catalogue. Suspended 
round the walls are culviers, ancient cross-bows, battle- 
axes, pikes, swords, daggers, muskets, arquebnses, 
quivers, arrows, tomahawks, helmets, chain armour, &c. ; 
here is also a portrait of our Saviour, on a gilt ground 


after the impression of an emerald presented by the 
Great Turk to Innocent VIII., for a token to redeem his 
brother that was taken prisoner. And a gallery at the 
further end contains a small suit of plate armour made 
for the "Noble Impe," Eobert of Dudley, son of Eobert, 
Earl of Leycester. The Billiaed Eoom has lately 
been entirely refitted with carved table and furniture 
en suite. In this passage also hangs a fine collection 
of paintings. 

From the Gilt Koom a door opens into a little apart- 
ment called the Compass Eoom, the principal window 
of which (of painted glass) was brought from Flanders 
by the late Earl of Warwick. There are two tables, 
the one of Sienna marble, the other of Scagliola ; close 
to which is a truncated marble column of Brocatella 
Africana. The paintings in this room are An Old Mans 
Head, by Eubens ; Two pictures of Bears ; Scene from 
the Merry Wives of Windsor, by Stoddart ; small Coast 
Scene by W. Vander Velde; A Bacchanalian Group, by 
Eubens ; A Saint ; St. Peter in Prison and St. Peter 
released from Prison, by Peter Neef ; A Laughing Boy, 
by Murillo ; Ecce Agnus Dei, by Tiepolo ; small Dutch 
portrait of a Woman ; A Storm and Wreck, a very fine 
picture, by W. Vander Velde (the younger) ; A Sea 
Piece, Vander Velde ; portrait of Napoleon Bonaparte, 
by David ; Head of an Old Man, by Eubens ; Landscape, 
by Salvator Eosa; two small pictures of St. Paul light- 
ing afire in the Island of Melita, and St. Paul shaking 
off the Viper, by Eubens ; portrait of a Lady, Dutch 
school ; Catherine, daughter of the Earl of Bedford ; 


portraits of Maximilian I., and his Sister, by Lucas 
Cranach. In the Chapel Passage hang Mother of 
Buhens, by Eubens ; Don Scotius, by Abraham Jansen ; 
Still Life, by Schaef ; portrait of the late Lady Warwick, 
by Sir G. Hayter; and on a cabinet a magnificent bust 
of the Black Brince. Here is also a fine carving in 
wood, the Battle of the Amazons on the Bridge, after a 
painting by Eubens ; portraits of Martin Byckaert and 
Don Ferdinand de Toledo, the Duke of Alva, by 
Vandyck; Gondomar ; A Nun, by Sir J. Eeynolds ; 
Vandyck's picture of Charles L, which stands at the 
end of the passage, has just been restored, when it was 
discovered that a foot-and-a-half of canvas on the left 
of the picture was turned in and had never been shewn, 
on this piece are the quarterings of the Monarch, which 
are now seen to full advantage. 

The Chapel is entered by a small door, from the 
last-named passage, but the principal entrance is from 
the court-yard, where a flight of steps leads to the 
vestibule, from which a pair of folding doors opens into 
chapel. The altar-piece of oak, carved and surmounted 
by a canopy ; the Gothic windows, filled with rich 
painted glass, pour through the chapel a stream of "dim 
religious light," rendering it a scene well calculated to 
harmonise the mind, and cause the heart to join in those 
devout prayers and pious exercises of our Church which 
are here daily offered up to the throne of grace. 

The Great Dining Eoom, built by Francis, Earl of 
Warwick, is in architectural keeping with the other 
parts of this venerable pile. This room was much 


damaged by fire, but is restored to its original state. 
The interior is painted and gilt in a rich but chaste 
style ; large marble slabs, on elegant stands, are placed 
as side tables. In this room are three busts of Parian 
marble and antique, placed on pedestals of red Egyptian 
granite and Sienna marble. The busts of Augustus and 
Scipio Africanus are very fine. The head of Augustus 
is as perfect as the day on which it was finished ; that 
of Scipio highly interesting, and the mouth singularly 
expressive of decision of character. This was found 
near St. John of Lateran at Eome, and was restored 
by the eminent Danish Sculptor, Thorwaldsen. In 
this room are placed Frederick, Prince of Wales, 
by Eichardson; Augusta, Princess of Wales, and an 
Infant (George III.), by Phillips ; and Two Limis, by 
Eubens ; a fine carved sideboard, with gilt figures 
brought from Bergamo; also four gilt Italian figures 
from Venice, and a crystal chandelier from Genoa. 

The Beeakfast Eoom contains Joanna, Queen of 
Naples, by Leonardo da Vinci ; The Doge's Palace at 
Venice, by Canaletto ; Duchess of Parma, by Paulo 
Veronese ; a Battle Piece, by H. Borgognone ; and a 
fine collection of paintings of the Castle, by Canaletto ; 
also a magnificent buhl clock ; two Portugese cabinets, 
and a fine collection of red lustre ware, introduced by 
the Moors into Spain. 

In the Lobby adjoining the Breakfast Eoom, and 
which is panelled with cedar, are : — picture of A School 
Boy, by Sir J. Eeynolds, and Francis, Earl Brooke, by 
the same painter. 


The Private Apartments of the Castle are not 
open for inspection. They have lately been thoroughly 
remodelled, and in many cases almost entirely rebuilt. 
They are ample and justly proportioned ; and although 
not vieing in magnificence with the state apartments, 
the comfort and convenience that pervades them excites 
in the mind pleasing thoughts of quiet and retirement. 
The Breakfast Eoom, Library and Private Eooms at 
the east end of the castle have been restored, under 
the superintendence of Mr. Salvin, the eminent 
architect, of London, and they add much to the 
beauty of the edifice and the comfort of the noble 
family by whom they are occupied. 

Situate about the armoury and state rooms are the 
private rooms of the Earl and Countess of Warwick. 
They contain many fine paintings, and a large collection 
of family portraits. The Eooms have lately been fitted, 
at a great expense, with old carved panelling, and other 
ornaments, in the most exquisite taste. The Domestic 
Offices occupy a range running under the whole suite of 
state apartments ; nearly the whole of them are cut out 
of the solid rock, under ground as viewed in connection 
with the inner court, but raised on the south side some 
sixty feet above the bed of the river. Here are seen to 
perfection the stupendous works in architecture under- 
taken by our forefathers. The whole range is supported 
by enormous solid pillars from ten to twenty feet span, 
from which spring the massive groined arches which 
support the roof. 


Between Caesar's Tower and the Clock Tower a new 
room has lately been built to contain the Library of 
Books relating to Warwickshire, which has been col- 
lected by the present Earl. Here is placed the cele- 
brated " Kenilworth Buffet," from the Great Exhibition 
of 1851. This fine work of art was manufactured by 
Cookes and Sons, of Warwick, from an oak tree which 
was grown on the Kenilworth estate, near the edge of 
the lake, and which from its apparent age, was doubtless 
standing at the time of Queen Elizabeth's visit to the 
Earl of Leycester. The centre panel portrays the entry 
of Queen Elibabeth to Kenilworth Castle, and on either 
side are recorded the date of the Queen's visit, 1575, 
and the year of the Exhibition, 1851 ; — above are pro- 
jections, supported by the Bear and Eagged Staff, while 
the arms of Leycester surmount the v>hole. On the 
spandrils, supported by water flowers are marine sub- 
jects, taken from the pageant of 1575, viz : — a Triton 
on a Mermaid, and Arion on the Dolphin. The panels, 
on the doors are illustrations of some of the scenes from 
Sir Walter Scott's novel of Kenilworth; that on the 
left representing Queen Elizabeth's meeting with Amy 
Eobsart in the grotto ; that on the right the interview 
of Elizabeth with Leycester after the exposure of his 
deceit. The figures at the four bases represent the great 
men of the time ; Sidney, Ealeigh, Shakespeare, and 
Drake : the Historian, the Warrior, the Poet, and 
the Admiral of the Age. This splendid specimen of 
local manufacture was presented to the present 
Earl, on his marriage, by the town and county of 


Around the walls are hung a most valuable collection 
of portraits of eminent persons who have been connected 
with Warwickshire ; among them the beautiful portrait 
of Shakesj^eare, supposed to be by Cornelius Jansen ; Sir 
Philip Sidney ; Bobert Dudley , Earl of Ley cester ; Queen 
Elizabeth, painted by her goldsmith, Guillim Stretes ; 
Bobert, Lord Brooke, killed at the siege of Lichfield, by 
Dobson ; Oliver Cromwell, by Walker ; a portrait of 
Shakespeare, from Mr. Halliwell Phillipps' collection ; 
and portrait of the Earl of Essex, by Zucchero. 

Adjoining this room is a small conservatory. 


Cesar's Tower, which is not shown to visitors, has 
beneath it a dark and dismal dungeon, which is entered 
from the inner court by a long flight of stone steps ; here, 
at various periods, prisoners have been confined, and 
from stanchion holes in the wall it is evident they were 
restrained far from the small loophole, which alone gave 
light and ventilation to the place. Many instructive 
and rude drawings may be traced on various parts of 
the walls, but they are now nearly obliterated by damp. 
The heart cannot but feel a pang while it traces the 
operations of the poor wretches who have thus amused 
themselves, and whiled away the day, when the sun 
rose to gladden the earth, but excited no pleasure in 
their bosoms, and its parting beams left them still in 


their misery. The upper part, or guard rooms, are now 
fitted as servants' chambers. The scene from the 
summit borders on the subhme ; the views are extensive 
in every direction and very fine ; while looking through 
the machicolations between the tower and the battle- 
ments, at the distance of nearly 150 feet the river pours 
its stream along. The Clock and Gate Towees are 
also fitted up as apartments for the attendants, and 
many of them are hung with tapestry. 

Guy's Tower contains five tiers of guard rooms and 
thirteen rooms ; the second room is now used as a 
depository for documents, &c., relating to the castle 
estates ; the three upper ones are open, and afford 
excellent resting places for visitors during their ascent. 
The view from the summit, which is reached by 133 
steps, is of the most varied description, and amply 
repays the fatigue. In the distance are seen the spires 
of Coventry, the castle of Kenil worth, Guy's Cliffe, 
Blacklow Hill, Grove Park, the Shuckburgh and 
Shropshire Hills, and the Saxon Tower on the Broad- 
way Hills ; the fashionable town of Leamington ap- 
pears almost at your feet, while village churches, 
lifting their venerable towers through the embosoming 
foliage, fill up the pleasing picture. In the topmost 
guard room the visitor will be shown the thickness of 
the walls, which are here upwards of ten feet ; and in 
the room below are several curious inscriptions in raised 
letters ; many others have been obliterated by the 
mason's chisel, while removing the senseless writing of 


impertinent persons. Descending from Guy's Tower, 
the visitor passes to what is called, on an old plan of 
the castle, The Bear Court. It occupied the space 
between the bases of the two north towers, and was 
nearly a regular parallelogram in shape. Passing on- 
ward, through a portcullis in the north wall, over a 
bridge thrown across the moat, and covered with ivy, 
a broad gravelled walk (on the right of which are the 
stables) conducts to the Greenhouse. This spacious 
building of modern construction, was built for the 
purpose of receiving the celebrated Antique Vase. 
It has usually a good collection of plants and shrubs, 
and from its front a beautiful landscape opens, admir- 
ably filled with wood and water. The Vase is of white 
marble, designed and executed in the purest Grecian 
taste, and is one of the finest specimens of ancient 
sculpture at present known — compared with the age of 
which even the castle itself is but a thing of a day. It 
was found at the bottom of a lake at Hadrian's Villa, 
near Tivoli, by Sir William Hamilton, then Ambassador 
at the Court of Naples, by whom it was presented to the 
father of the late Earl of Warwick, conveyed to England 
and placed in its present position. Its shape is circular, 
and it is capable of holding 136 gallons. It has two 
large handles, formed of interwoven vine branches, from 
which the tendrils, leaves, and clustering grapes spread 
round the upper margin. The middle of the body is 
enfolded by the skin of the panther, with the head and 
claws beautifully finished ; above are the heads of satyrs, 
bound with wreaths of ivy, accompanied by the vine- 
clad spear of Bacchus, and the crooked staff of the 


Augurs. It rests upon vine leaves that climb high up 
its sides, and stands on a square marble pedestal, which 
bears the following inscription : — •hoc pristine aetis 


Leaving the greenhouse, the visitor continues his 
walk through a fine plantation of luxuriant trees and 
shrubs, bounding the extensive lawn for half-a-mile, till 
reaching the bank of the river, he emerges from the 
** leafy covert," and the walk again opens on the lawn. 
The river front of the castle, the mount and its towers, 
the mill, the cascade, the ruined arches of the bridge, 
the greenhouse, the tower of St. Mary's Church, the 
whole expanse of verdant lawn, bounded by the " soft 
flowing Avon," appear in rapid succession, forming a 
panorama seldom equalled, never excelled. Passing a 
pavilion, the visitor arrives at the foot of the castle, where 
the stupendous pile, with its rocky basement, appears to 
derive increasing interest from the development of its 
vast bulk as it stands towering above the glassy stream. 
Amid the ivy and lichens that creep up the ragged side 
of the rock is a brass plate affixed to record the following 
distressing event : A relative of Lord Bagot's while 
engaged in rowing on the river near this spot was unfor- 
tunately drowned, while a friend who accompanied him 


was with difficulty saved. The following is the inscrip- 
tion : — Juxta hanc ripam e cymba submersus fuit 
Gaulterus Bagot, Jan. 10, A.D. 1800, ^t suae 22. 

Oh ! crudelis Avon, Stygia infelicior unda 
Suaviloquus posthac non tibi prosit Olor ! 

Merso, namque tuo violenti ingurgite, nato, 
Haec verba inscripsit flens et amans Genitor. 

Eeturning to the Hill Tower, the stranger pauses 
to view the magnificent cedars of Lebanon, (which, it is 
said, grow to a larger size in this park than in any other 
part of the kingdom). Passing onwards, a circuitous 
path leads to the top of the mount, the summit of which 
is crowned by a grass plat, in the centre of which stood 
an ancient Scotch fir, blown down during a tempestuous 
night in the winter of 1843-44. This was the only tree 
represented in Canaletto's view of the castle ; it stood 
singly on the mount, outside the wall, and appears a 
prominent object in his picture. An iron-grated gate 
leads to what is called the northern tower. On this 
artificial mount, thrown up by Ethelfleda, near one 
thousand years ago, stood the ancient keep raised by 
that spirited Princess to keep in awe the turbulent 
spirits of her time. 


The early as well as the modern history of the town 
of Warwick is so woven up with the accounts of its 
Earls that it would be here superfluous to reproduce it. 
The town is clean and extremely healthy ; the houses 
are generally well built and spacious. It has meeting 
houses for the several bodies of Dissenters. For the 
Quakers and Unitarians in High Street ; for the Inde- 
pendents in Brook Street ; for the Wesleyan Methodists 
in Market Street and at Emscote ; for the Eoman 
Catholics in West Street ; and for the Baptists on the 
Castle Hill. 


Before describing the Churches at present remain- 
ing in Warwick, it may be desirable briefly to notice 
those which formerly existed in the town, and of which 
the memories have almost perished. According to 
Rous, Warwick was, in the time of the later Britons, 
in the 6th century, a bishop's see. He states that St. 
Dubritius, coming here, fixed his episcopal residence 
on a site now included in the Castle walls, where he 
built a Church and dedicated it to All Saints. Saint 
Dubritius afterwards removed to Llandaff, where he 
became bishop of that see, and from thence was conse- 
crated the first Welsh Archbishop. The existence of a 
Church here in the time of Edward the Confessor is 
recognized by a charter granted by King Henry L, and 

St, Peter's Chapel —The East Gate. 


by this charter was confirmed to it several pecuHar 
customs and privileges, among others the fire and water 
ordeal. The Church was, by Eoger de Newburgh, in 
1123, incorporated with the church of St. Mary. St, 
Helen's formerly stood on the site now occupied by the 
Priory, and was swallowed up by the foundation of that 
religious house, and from that time is always mentioned 
conjointly with the church of St. Sepulchre. St. 
Michael's was situated at the lower end of the Saltis- 
ford; but in 41 Edwd. III. its revenues and population 
had dwindled almost to nothing. The walls of the 
Church are still standing, and the gables show the pitch 
of the original roof ; the east wdndow, though blocked up, 
has still its mouldings nearly perfect, and by the marks 
of the mullions, yet visible, seems to be of the decorated 
style of the 14th century. This cannot, therefore, be 
the original building, as Earl Roger founded the Hos- 
pital of St. Michael " neere the chappell " about the 
beginning of King Stephen's time. The area of this 
consecrated building is now used as a blacksmith's shop 
and dwelling house, in the upper chamber of which a 
portion of the old roof is preserved. St. John Baptist 
formerly stood in the Market Place, and its foundation 
is attributed by Rous to Caradoc, an ancient British 
Prince. This Church was also transferred by Earl 
Roger to St. Mary's. St. Peter's was originally 
situated in the centre of the town, but had no dwelling 
place, or place of sepulture belonging to it. In the reign 
of Henry VI. it was pulled down, and the Chapel of St. 
Peter built in its stead over the east gate of the town. 
About the year 1800 this chapel and gateway under- 


went a most tasteless renovation and assumed its 
present form. St. Lawrence was situated at the lower 
end of the West Street, and was appropriated to the 
Coll. Church of Our Lady, 22 Richd. II. Its exact site 
was discovered in the autumn of 1837, when the road 
was widened at the entrance to the town. It was near 
the back gates of the Castle, on the spot now occupied 
by the last house and garden on the south side of the 
street. Above the west gate of the town was St. James's' 
Chapel, which was also given by Roger, Earl of War- 
wick to St. Mary's on making it collegiate. In 6 Eichd. 
II. the advowson was bestowed on the Guild of St. 
George by Thomas Beauchamp, by whom the present 
tower was probably built, as his arms adorn the embat- 
tled parapet. The groined roof of the first compartment 
of the gateway is deserving of examination. In the 
notice of St. Helen's Church, it has already been 
mentioned that, together with St. Sepulchre's, it 
occupied the site of the Priory : but not the slightest 
vestige remains of either of the buildings. Within 
Wedgnock Park is a spot on which formerly stood a 
chapel called Cuckoo Church. It is not known at 
what time it fell to ruin, but in 16 Henry VII. the 
king bestowed the site on which it stood, and also the 
church-yard, on the Dean and Canons of the Collegiate 

St. Mary's Church. — The period of the foundation 
of St, Mary's Church is uncertain ; but that it was 
founded prior to the Conquest is evident, for in the con- 
queror's survey it was certified to have one hide of land 
in Myton, given to it by Turchil de Warwick, which 

ST. maky's church. 43 

land was then valued at 10s. It was made collegiate, 
having a Dean, secular Canons, Priests and Choristers, 
by Hen. de Newberg, first Earl of Warwick of the Nor- 
man line ; and Eoger his son, in the year 1123, 23 Hen. 
I., added to their body the Priests from the Church of 
All Saints, and very liberally endowed the Church. 

Various other benefactors, at different periods, 
continued to augment its income ; and from its ample 
endowments, and the poverty of various other churches 
then standing in what now constitutes the parish of St. 
Mary's, the other churches gradually fell into decay, 
and finally merged into St. Mary's. It was not, how- 
ever, without a struggle for supremacy that some of 
these fell : and to such a height were their bickerings 
carried, as to call forth the direct interference of the 
Pope (Adrian IV.), to subdue them. At the survey, 26 
Henry VIII., previous to the general dissolution, its 
revenues were certified to be £334 2s. 3d. The books 
in the library at that period were very few, and chiefly 
accorded with the confined and bigoted feeling of the 
period. Its Eeliques were pretty numerous, and such 
as now would raise a smile in the most simple at the 
credulity displayed by our ancestors. 

The Collegiate Church of St. Mary was dissolved 
37th Henry VIII. , and the same year granted by letters 
patent to the Burgesses of Warwick, with an estate for 
its maintenance and that of the King's School adjoining 
— then worth £58 14s. 4d., and which is now £2756 
15s. 9d. ; a very small portion of this is however applied 
to the purpose for which it was originally intended. 

44 ST, Mary's chukch. 

The Church, as far as the choir, was destroyed by 
the great fire, which in 1694, laid nearly the whole of 
the town in ashes, and caused an estimated loss to the 
inhabitants of £90,600; towards which £11,000 was 
gathered by Brief, and £1,000 given by the Queen 
(Anne). With this the Church and Tower was rebuilt, 
from a design long supposed to have been furnished by 
Sir C. When, but which recent enquiries have proved 
to be by Sik W. Wilson, The Tower alone cost £1,600 
and rises from four arches (three of which are open to 
the street, the other forming the principal entrance to 
the Church), and crowned with lofty pinnacles. It con- 
tains a peal of ten bells, a set of chimes and a clock. 
On the north, west and south sides is the following 
inscription :— 


Novo-BURGO com: WAR : temp: steph: r: instauratum 


The Tower and a portion of the Church has been 
restored at a cost of nearly £12,000. 

The Church is deficient, in no ordinary degree, in 
architectural beauty, although its noble proportions 
give it a grandeur of appearance ; but for this it is 
probably indebted to its predecessor, which doubtless 
was strictly followed. It has a centre aisle, two side 
aisles, and a transept. 

ST. Mary's church. 45 

The following are the admeasurements of the 
Church :— To the top of the hattlements of the tower, 
130 feet ; top of the pinnacles, 174 feet ; diameter at the 
foot, 33 feet 4 inches; at the summit, 27 feet. Length 
of the Church, including the Choir, 180 feet 6 inches ; 
breadth, 66 feet 4 inches ; cross aisle, 106 feet 6 inches ; 
height of the roof, 42 feet 6 inches; length of the Choir, 
77 feet 3 inches; breadth, 27 feet 4 inches. 

Over the principal entrance is a fine and powerful 
organ, built by Swarebrick; improved, and its volume 
very much increased by Bishop, in 1834 ; by Banfield, 
in 1836 ; and by the same person, in 1842 ; and entirely 
rebuilt, improved, and the whole instrument brought 
forward by Hill and Son, in 1865. The furniture of the 
Church is of oak, deeply embrowned by age, and sub- 
stantially made. It has galleries on the north, west, 
and south aisles, and is filled with ugly pews. 

Afi&xed to a pillar, on the south side of the entrance, 
is an incised brass with the figure of an old servant of 
the Church, that will be immediately recognised by 
those who have visited it some years ago ; beneath 
is the following inscription: — 

In the Churchyard adjoining, lie the mortal remains 
of James Hadley, for the greater part of his life a 
faithful servant of this Church. He died on the first 
day of January, 1849, aged 68. 

The aisles and transepts are filled with monuments, 
the greater part of which are of no general interest. 
Those erected to persons of note will now be described. 

46 ST. mart's church. 

East wall, left of lobby door, is an unpretending 
monument to the memory of two of Warwick's greatest 
benefactors to the poor, Thomas Oken and Joan his wife, 
having two incised brasses and a brass tablet, recovered 
after the great fire, with the following inscription : — 

®f yonr (3^I)arptc gibe tf)anfes for the Soules of ^ftomas <!^feen 
antr 3ionf i)ts a©pff— on tDftose Soules liesus iiati) m'et), Jtcsus 
haii) m'cp— ^tnen — IRememfter pe cri)an)te for tl)c pore for eber, 

lino. B iticcrcrccicxxiu. 

Under the brass, upon a marble tablet, is the folloiving : 

To the memory of Mr. THOMAS OKEN, an orna- 
ment of his own, and a blessing to ages succeeding. 
This monument, defaced by ye late dreadfull Fire, is 
re-erected and dedicated by his Feoffees, the MAYOR 
and ALDERMEN of this BOROUGH. Whose industry, 
being born here, of mean parents, was so bless' d in ye 
trade exercised of a mercer, that 37mo H. : 8, he was 
Master of ye Guild of the Holy Trinity and St. Geoige, 
now ye Hospital of E. of Leicester, 5th P. and Marrae, 
Bailiff of this Borough and dying 15to of Eliz. gave to 
Pious and Charitable Uses here, an Estate, then lett for 
less yn 20/. per An. now by ye just Care of his Feoffees, 
advanc'd notwithstanding the loss of several houses by 
ye late Fire, to more than 100/. per An. also 100/. to 
purchase Lands to enlarge ye common, 30/. to the Poor, 
10/. to 30 poor Maidens for Marriages, 94 Ounces of 
wrought Plate, for ye use of tlie Bailiffs successively. 
And to ye Boroughs of Stratford and Banbury, 40/. each, 
to be lent to honest tradesmen. Vide Dugdale's War. 

ST. Mary's church. 47 

This Charity, reader, was so wisely instituted, and 
ye Trust so honestly executed, yt, if to thy faith Thou 
art dispos'd to join good Works thou needst seek no 
farther for a Model or encouragement, or Opportunity, 
for ye have ye Poor with you always. 

Opposite to this is a Monument erected to the 
officers and men of the 24th Regiment, while surmount- 
ing it are the Old Queen's and Regimental Colours. 

North wall, west corner, is an unassuming marble 
monument to another of Warwick's benefactors, with a 
Latin inscription, which may be translated as follows : — 

Near this place, in a vault, lieth William Johnson, 
Doctor of Physic, Senior Fellow of the Royal College of 
Physicians in London. A man of probity, justice, 
honesty, who cultivated in himself real principles of 
charity. A lover of gratitude : Do you desire to know 
more of him, let propitious Fame of never-failing 
memory, speak the rest. He died on the 22nd day of 
Nov. 1725. 

In the same vault is laid Ann his wife, who by her 
last Will commanded her whole Estate, of about 3,000Z. 
and 100/. which she left at her death (her debts and 
legacies being first discharg'd) to be laid out for the 
seasonable relief of poor people. By her will she like- 
wise ordered that all her Lands which were situated at 
a distance, together with the personal estates she then 
possess'd to be sold, the first opportunity, and with the 
money thence arising, other Freehold Lands to be 
bought situated in the County of Warwick, the revenue 
of which as also of all the Houses she possessed in 

48 ST. maky's church. 

Warwick, she bequeath'd to Trustees to be laid out 
every year, for the Poor of this borough, for ever. 
She died on the 4th day of April, in the year of our 
Lord 1733, of her age 84. 

East wall, near the entrance to the Lady's Chapel, 
a marble monument, with brass effigies of Thomas 
Beauchamp, the founder of the cLurch, and his wife ; 
he had a stately monument in the church which was 
destroyed by the great fire, but the brass effigies were 
rescued from the flames and prefixed to the present 
marble, with a . Latin inscription, of which the 
following is a translation : — 

Sacred to the best and greatest God, and to Eternal 
Memory. Having had this Temple in vain for his 
Mausoleum, and its Altars for his refuge, but awaken'd 
from that Sleep in which he had lain buried for more 
than Three Hundred Years, and which he thought 
would not be disturbed but by the general Conflag- 
ration ; Lo ! there now ariseth and standeth before you 
that famous Man equally renowned for his Piety and 
Valour; one while the Love, another while the envy of 
Kings ; always beloved by the Kingdom : sometimes 
the Sport of Fortune ; at length her Conqueror : Equal 
to her Smiles ; Greater than her Frowns ; Almost the 
last of a Name always terrible to France. 

Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Governor of 
the Isle of Guernsey, Serke, and Aureney ; Knight of 
the Order of the Garter : Of some esteem with the 
fortunate invincible Prince Edward Illd. on account of 
his famous Exploits performed in England and France; 

ST. Mary's church. 49 

promoted by a convention of the Orders of the Eealm 
to be Governor to Eichard lid. during his minority. 
Condemn'd for High Treason when the same King was 
made Master of himself, or rather of his subjects. 
Banished to the Isle of Man ; recalled from Banishment 
by Henry IVth. to his Estates and Honours ; who, 
when he had lived long enough for his country, himself, 
and his reputation, was together with his wife Margaret, 
buried in this place, in the year of our Lord 1401. 

That the sepulchral monument of the founder might 
not perish in the ashes of this Collegiate Church, which 
he himself had built, these Images, snatched from the 
sacrilegious flames, were erected by the care of one of 
the Commissioners appointed by Act of Parliament, for 
the re-building the Town and this Sacred Church, and 
who offers this Eulogium, such as it is, a kind of Funeral 
Obsequy to the Memory of so great a Name, a Name 
more durable than brass or marble. Anno. Dom. 1706. 

Dugdale mentions the interment in this Church of 
William Berksivell, Dean of the church, and one of the 
Executors of Eichard Beauchamp, and who witnessed 
the erection of the Lady's Chapel, and also the Buildings 
called the College — Demi Alesire, who witnessed the 
translation of Earl Eichard's body into the Lady's 
Chapel. — Dean Haseley, Schoolmaster to Henry VII.— 
John Bous, the justly celebrated antiquary. — Thomas 
Cartwright, Master of the Earl of Leycester's Hospital 
(" the first that in the Church of England began to pray 
extempore before his sermon ") and others, whose 
monuments in his day were defaced, and of which no 
traces now remain. 


50 ST. Mary's church. 

The Choir is a part, as before mentioned, of the 
ancient Church, which escaped the destructive fire of 
1694; it is a lofty and magnificent structure, and forms 
a striking contrast to the Church. The groined ceiling, 
which is nearly flat, is supported by flying ribs, per- 
forated, connected by light and elegant tracery ; the 
centres of the groinings are finished by four large 
shields, embosomed by seraphim, the two extreme ones 
charged with the arms of Beauchamp — those in the 
centre, Beauchamp impaling Mortimer and Ferrars of 
Groby, showing the alliances of the founder of this 
magnificent Gothic structure. It is lighted on each 
side by four large windows, which were formerly filled 
with rich old painted glass; one is now filled with 
stained glass to the memory of Officers of the Eoyal 
Warwickshire Kegiment, and a second to the memory 
of the late Eev. G. Innes, for many years Master of 
the King's School ; and at the east end by a large 
stained glass window which has recently been erected 
to the memory of the Eev. J. Boudier, formerly Vicar 
of the parish, and which sheds a soft and subdued light 
through this lovely pile. Considerable alterations have 
been made in this part of the Church, which have 
added much to the effect of its fine proportions. The 
whole of the Chancel has been cleared of the coat of 
plaster with which it was covered, and the stone-work 
restored to its original state. The modern Altar Screen 
of Oak, which was quite unworthy of its antique shrine, 
has been removed, and in its room is erected a fine 
reredos in black and white marble, to the memory of 
an old inhabitant of the town. The Stalls likewise, 

ST. Mary's church. 51 

^Yhich were of a similar character with the Altar 
Screen before alluded to, are replaced by others in 
harmony with the style of the period when this portion 
of the sacred edifice was erected. They consist of 
ranges of Stalls in three divisions on each side, and are 
designed in conformity with those in the Beauchamp 
Chapel, with massive bench ends termiaating with 
finial tops, and moulded elbows on which stand 
grotesque figures. The backs of the seats against the 
north and south walls consist of perforated tracery 
with shields, so arranged as to hide as little as possible 
of the shafts and mouldings of the stone panelling. 

The backs of the lower stalls, both above and below 
the seat, are richly panelled and moulded. 

To the south of the altar is a piscina, and four 
sedilia for the officiating Priests and Deacons, and on 
the north side is a deep recess formed for the repre- 
sentation of the Holy Sepulchre, which was formerly 
exhibited at Easter, 

In the centre of the Choir is a fine table monument 
supporting the recumbent effigies of Earl Thomas Beau- 
champ (the founder of the Choir), and Catherine, his 
second Countess, daughter of Roger Mortimer, Earl of 
March. The Earl is represented in armour, covered 
with a surcoat, worked with a fess between six crosslets 
— a dagger on his right side, spurs on his heels — his 
left hand gauntleted, resting on his sword— his right, 
uncovered, clasping that of his consort — his helmeted 
head supported by a cushion, and his feet resting upon 
a bear. The Countess is habited in a mantle and 
petticoat laced down the front below her girdle, and 

52 ST. mart's church. 

very rich— her sleeves reaching to the wrists, and 
buttoned — head-dress reticulated — her head is sup- 
ported by a cushion, and her feet rest upon a lamb — 
her right hand is clasped in that of the Earl — her left 
reposed on her breast when perfect, but is now broken 
off at the wrist. Bound about the tomb are thirty-six 
statues, placed alternately, male and female : a shield 
below each was, doubtlessly, formerly charged with the 
arms of each, which would have given a clue to their 
names, but the bearings of the whole are now nearly 
obhterated. The Earl died at Calais, Nov. 15, 1370, 
aged 63. 

In this Choir was also buried William Parr, 
Marquis of Northampton, brother of Queen Catherine 
Parr, but no trace of his tomb is now left. 

Beneath the Choir is a large Crypt, supported by 
massive Norman pillars and arches, formerly used 
as a charnel house, but since as a burial place for the 
Corporation, till the Municipal Corporation Act 
removed that permanent distinction. It contains 
many monuments and inscriptions, and is the entrance 
to the Earl of Warwick's vault. Here is also placed 
the ancient Cucking or Ducking Stool. 

North of the Choir are three apartments : 1st, the 
Vestry, formerly containing the Library, which is now 
removed to the Vestry at the back of the Altar in the 
" Lady's Chapel : " beneath this is an apartment, styled 
in an old inventory of goods in the Church, " the lowe 
house under the vestry," now used as a Mausoleum for 
the noble family of Warwick. — 2nd, an octagon room 


formerly used as a Chapter House, in which now 
stands the stately but heavy monument of Fulke Lord 
Brooke. It has a sarcophagus, placed beneath a heavy 
double canopy, supported by Corinthian columns, and 
surmounted by pyramidical ornaments; round the 
cornice is the following inscription : — "fvlke grevill, 


PECCATi." On the tomb rest several pieces of funeral 
armour, and round the room is suspended armour, &c. 
— 3rd, The Lobby, a spacious room, in which is a 
marble monument containing a modest and elegant 
Latin inscription, of which the following is a trans- 
lation : — 

If you ask. Traveller, who lies here? take the account 
in a few words : I was Francis Parker, born at London, 
educated at Cambridge, where I obtained (I know not 
whether I deserved it) the degree of Master of Arts. 1 
served the Lords Francis, Eobert, Fulk Brooke, in the 
character of Tutor, Secretary, and Steward, for almost 
45 years, with what integrity and assiduity, let the 
survivors who know it declare : I deceased at London, 
in the house belonging to the Brookes, where I generally 
lived, on the 10th day of November, in the year of our 
Lord, 1693, of my age 67. When I rise again with my 
Lords, who are sleeping near me, may I hear the joyful 


On the west side is a marble tomb, with Corinthian 
pillars, supporting a heavy canopy bearing a Latin 
inscription to the memory of Sir Thomas Puckering, 

54 ST. mary's church. 

Bart., youngest son of John Puckering, Lord Keeper of 
the Great Seal to Queen Elizabeth : he resided at the 
Priory, in this borough, and died there March 20, 1636. 

The whole of these three rooms have lately been 
cleaned, and the walls cleared of several coats of plaster 
and whitewash ; what was supposed to have been a 
wall between the vestry and lobby,, was discovered to be 
a fine Gothic stone screen which had been blocked up ; 
it has now been put in a thorough state of repair, and 
the openings filled with stained glass. Some fine old 
glass, taken from the east window of the Choir, now 
fills the windows of the vestry. 

At the west end of the Church is a monumental 
bust, erected to the memory of Walter Savage Landor, 
the author of ** Imaginary Conversations," with this 
inscription: — "Born at Warwick 30th January, 1775, 
died at Florence 17th September, 1864. 

Against the arch are placed the Colors which belonged 
to the County Volunteers in 1801. These were for 
many years deposited at the War Office, but by the 
kindness of Lord Leigh, the Lord Lieutenant of the 
County, to whom they were ofi'ered by the late Sir G. 
Cornwall Lewis, they have been deposited here. 

On the right of the Chancel arch are the Colors of 
the Eoyal Warwickshire Regiment, placed here in 1888, 
after the presentation of new Colors to the Regiment. 

The Beauchamp Chapel. —This magnificent pile is 
entered by a descent of several steps from the south 
transept of the Church, beneatn a doorway beautifully 
carved in stone, said to have been executed by a poor 


mason of Warwick, in 1704, but which Mr. Bloxham 
assumes to be a restoration of the old doorway; the 
arms of Beauchamp adorn the centre, and on each side 
is the crest of the Bear and Eagged Staif, oak leaves, 
&c., forming the cornice ; the arch is likewise beautifully 
sculptured ; above the entrance is a music gallery or 
organ loft. The Chapel is 58 feet long, 25 feet wide, 
and 82 high. The seats are of fine old oak, beautifully 
carved, their elbows formed of bears, griffins, lions, &c., 
and near the altar are two antique desks. The Chapel 
is lighted by two large windows in the upper part of the 
side walls (north and south), on the west by a window 
looking into the Church (the greater part of these 
windows are of plain glass, and what is left of coloured 
glass are mostly fragments) ; and by a large rich window 
of fine old "storied" glass on the east side; the ceiling 
of the Chapel, like that of the Choir, is nearly flat, 
ornamented with groined ribs, at the intersections of 
which are bosses elegantly painted and gilt ; the 
principal shields are charged with the arms of 
de Newburgh, the first Earl of Warwick of the 
Norman line, — the founder (Beauchamp), and the one 
nearest the altar with the Virgin, surrounded by a 
glory; the altar-piece is of bas-relief of the salutation 
of the Virgin Mary, beautifully executed by a Mr, 
Collins, of Warwick, from a design by Lightoler. In 
the corners of the east end are elegant niches, which, 
according to Dugdale, formerly held Images of Gold, 
each of the weight of 201bs. To the left of the altar 
is a doorway leading to an apartment, formerly the 
Vestry, but now fitted up for a Library, and into which 

56 ST. maey's church. 

the books have been removed from the Vestry. On the 
north side of the Chapel is a small Oratory, reached 
by a short flight of stone steps. The ornaments of 
this little chantry are exquisitely finished — the roof is 
groined with fan tracery, light and elegant — a range of 
windows on its south side open to the Beauchamp 
Chapel ; the steps of the confessional adjoining this 
Oratory are very much worn, and prove either the 
fanaticism of the devotees, or a fervour of devotion 
that were well copied in our more enlightened days. 
To the west of this apartment is another, fitted up 
with desks and seats, and beyond this is another 
apartment without seats ; from thence a flight of steps 
conducts to the roof of the building. The original 
items for the erection of this exquisite pile, and the 
costly and beautiful tomb it was erected to enshrine, 
are of great interest, but would extend this book 
beyond its limits : they may, however, be found in the 
larger edition of this Guide. 

The structure was commenced 21 Hen. VI., and 
finished 3 Edward IV., occupying a period of 21 years, 
at a cost of £2,481 4s. 7d., the value of a fat Ox at that 
time being 13s. 4d., and a quarter of bread Corn 3s. 4d. 
The Chapel though finished, was not consecrated till 
15 Edw. IV., when John Hales, Bishop of Coventry and 
Lichfield, was specially commissioned for the purpose 
by John Carpenter, Bishop of Worcester. The principal 
tomb in the Chapel is that to enshrine which this 
gorgeous pile was erected. It is an altar tomb of Purbec 
marble, bearing the recumbent efl5gy,in fine latten brass, 
gilt, of the great Earl, lying on a slab of the same m etal, 

ST. mart's church. 57 

above which is a hearse of the same metal, formerly 
supporting a pall of velvet. The figure is in full armour, 
with a sword and dagger ; the head, uncovered, rests 
upon his helmet, the feet supported by a bear and 
griffin ; the hands are raised as in prayer, but not 
closed ; the whole of the figure and its accompani- 
ments are minutely and beautifully finished. Around 
the tomb, in niches, are fourteen images of lords and 
ladies, in *' divers vestures, called w^eepers ; " beneath 
each is a shield of arms, as follows : — 

Next to the head, west end of the Tomb. 1. — Cecily (Neville) 
Duchess of Warwick, the Earl's daughter-in-law. 2. — Henry, 
Duke of Warwick, the Earl's only son. 

South side of the Tomb. 3. — Richard Neville, Earl of Salis- 
bury, and in right of his wife, Anne, sister of Duke Henry and his 
heiress, also Earl of Warwick, son-in-law to the deceased. 4. — 
Edmund Beaufort, Duke of Somerset, a son-in-law. 5. — Humphrey 
Stafford, Duke of Buckingham. 6. — John Talbot, Earl of Shrews- 
bui-y, a son-in-law. 7. — Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury, father 
of Richard, Earl of Salisbury and Warwick. 

East end of the Tomb. 8. — George Neville, Lord Lattimer, a 
son-in-law of the deceased. 9. — Elizabeth, Lady Lattimer, third 
daughter of the Earl, wife of the last described. 

North side of the Tomb. 10.— Anne (styled in her own right) 
Countess of Salisbury, only child of the Duke and Duchess, and 
grand-daughter of the deceased: she died in 1449, aged 10 years. 
11. — Margaret, Countess of Shrewsbury, eldest daughter of Earl 
Richard. 12.— Anne, Duchess of Buckingham. 13. — Eleanor, 
Duchess of Somerset, second daughter of the Earl. 14. — Anne, 
Countess of Salisbury and Warwick, fourth daughter of Earl 
Richard, and only sister of the whole blood and heiress to Duke 
Henry. Between each " weeper " are smaller niches, raised upon 
pillars, containing whole length figures of angels, clothed in robes, 
and holding scrolls inscribed— 

Sit tifo laus et rjlan'a: tjefunctts misericortJia. 

The inscription, of which the following is a copy, is 
on the edge of the tomb, running twice round in the 
Old English character, and freely interspersed with the 


58 ST. mart's church. 

Earl's crest — the Bear and Eagged Staff; the Bear 

being represented by '•' and the Ragged Staff by I : — 

♦ ^Qrcicti) Uctjoutlu for ti)C s^otocl 6Qf)om gotf nffoilk of one 
of tf)c mooft iiiorf{)ipfuI 1J{nigf)tcs in Ijis Unncs [ of monljotrc $c 
conning X Mid)cT:rU * 3Seaucf)amp J late CForl of ^arrefcuih * lortf 
Qefpenfcr of * Bergabenny, $c of monn otijer grete * IortJfI)tps, 
toijos liot«n rcfteti) i)ere untfer tijis tumbe in a fulfeire bout of 
Stone fct on tl)e bare roocf), ti)eiBt)uc]^ faifietf) initf) longe siknes 
in tl)e I GTaftel of % ^o«in tf)erinne Ueceffetf ful criftcnb tf)e laft 
tjan of * ^pril tf)e wer of oure t ^ox^ Qo^ ^. M 1 eDeDCe^ixxix, 
I l}c luing at tf)at ipme * ICieutenant gen'al anU goberner of tf)c 
Eotalme of JFrance antr of tf)e Bucljie of i^ormantJie, by sufRcient 
X ^utorite of oure Sou'aigne lorH tl)e Iting * l^arry t!)e b). 
tfjetoljtcl) faotip toitf) grete treliberaeon' anU ful toorfbipful contrint 
I * 13i See * ^ntf bo * lonti baas brogF)t to 2(!flarretoik tl)c itif tiay 
of % ©ctober ti)e ijer abouefcitie, antf teas | * Icitfe toitl) ful Solcnne 
exequies in a feir ci)eft matre of Stone in tl)is CCf)ircbe afore ti^e 
toeft tJore of ti)is % ®I)apcl accortiing to f}is laft fti^ille * mnlf X 
STeftament X tbcrin to refte til tf)is X <?Cl)apel bo l)im ticbifetf V i)is 
lief toere matie. 'ai tbctol)ucl)e Cbapel founHctf X\* ®" tl)e 
Boocl), ^ntf alle t\)t J^Ilembrcs tl)erof bis X €xecutours tretre fully 
make ^ntf "^pparaille * | * 13y tl^e '^luctorite of f)is SeiKe laft 
MilU ^nti I ^eftament '^n'is * tl)erafter ISy tl)c X same "^uctoritf 
^bcyt'itJe * ^ranflate X ffwl * toorffjipfully tbe feitJC 13otty into 
tbe bout abouefcitfc, l^onureti be gotr ti^erfore * X * + * 

[The mark | shows the places where the inscription passes from 
one side of the tomb to another.] 

The monument to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leycester, 
and his Countess Lettice, is erected against the north 
wall of the Chapel. It is a heavy canopy, profusely 
ornamented, supported by Corinthian pillars, beneath 
which, enclosed by iron rails, is an altar-tomb support- 
ing recumbent figures of the deceased Earl and his 
Countess. The Earl's figure is clothed in armour, over 
which is a mantle bearing the badge of the Order of 
the Garter on the left shoulder, the French Order of 
St. Michael on the left breast, and the Garter round 
his knee — his head, uncovered, rests on a cushion, his 

ST. maey's church. 59 

feet on a pair of gauntlets. The figure of the Countess is 
attired in the robes of a peeress, a circle of jewels round 
her head, and wearing the high ruff of the Elizabethan 
age — her head rests upon a cushion, her feet are with- 
out support. Within the arch on a table is a Latin 
inscription, translated as follows : — 

Sacred to the God of the living. In certain hope of 
a resurrection in Christ, here lieth the most illustrious 
Eobert Dudley, fifth son of John, Duke of Northumber- 
land, Earl of Warwick, Viscount Lisle, &c. — He was 
Earl of Leycester, Baron of Denbigh, Knight both of 
the Order of the Garter and St. Michael, Master of the 
Horse to Queen Elizabeth (who distinguished him by 
particular favour), soon after Steward of the Queen's 
Household, Privy Counsellor, Justice in Eyre of the 
Forests, Parks, Chases, &c., on this side Trent, from the 
year 1585 to the year 1587, Lieutenant and Captain 
General of the English Army sent by the said Queen 
Elizabeth to the ISTetherlands ; Governor General and 
Commander of the provinces united in that place ; 
Lieutenant Governor of England against Philip the 
Second of Spain, in the year 1588, w^hen he was pre- 
paring to invade England with a numerous Fleet and 
Army. — He gave up his soul to God his Saviour on the 
4th day of September, in the year of salvation, 1588. 

His most sorrowful wife, Lsetitia, daughter of 
Francis Knolles, Knight of the Order of the Garter, 
and Treasurer to the Queen, through a sense of con- 
jugal love and fidelity hath put up this monument 
to the best and dearest of husbands. 



On the corner of the tomb hangs a wooden tablet, 
with the following inscription in black letters on a gilt 
ground : — - 

Vpon the death of the excellent and inous Lady Leftice, 

Countess of Leicester, loho died ujjon Christmas Day, 

in the Morning, 1634. 

Look iu this vault and search it 

Much treasure in it lately fell 
We are all rob'd, and all doe say 
Our wealth was carry ed this away 
And that the theft might nere be 

'Tis buried closely under ground 
Yet if you gently stirr the mould 
There all our losse you may be- 

There you may see that face, that 

Which once was fairest in the 

She that in her younger yeares 
Match'd with two great English 

She that did supplye the warrs 
With thunder, and the Court 

with Stars; 
She that in youth had been 
Darling to the maiden Queene. 

Till phe was content to quitt 
Her favoure for her favouritt, 
Whose gould thread when she saw 

And the death of her brave sonn, 
Thought it safest to retyre 
From all care and vaine desire, 
To a private countrie cell, 
Where she^pent her daj-s soe well 
That to her the better sort 
Came, as to an holy Court; 
And the poore that lived neare 
Dearth nor famine could not feare 
While she lived, she lived thus. 
Till that God displeased wifh us 
Suffered her at last to fall, 
Not from him but from us all : 
And because she tooke delight 
Christ's poore members to invite. 
He fully now requites her love. 
And sends his angels from above 
That did to heaven her soul convay 
To solemnize his owne birthday. 

Gervas Clifton. 

At the head of Earl Eichard's tomb stands that of 
Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, the brother of Eliza- 
beth's proud favourite, but honourably distinguished 
from that proud peer by his numerous virtues. It is 
an altar-tomb, supporting the recumbent figure of the 
deceased Earl, carved in marble and painted — the effigy 
is represented in a suit of armour, covered by a mantle, 
on the left shoulder of which is embroidered the Order 
of the Garter — the hands are raised in adoration — the 

ST. mart's church. 61 

head supported by a roll of the mat on which the figure 
reposes — the feet rest upon a chained bear. Under the 
cornice, on eight tablets, is the following inscription : — 

Heare under this tomb lieth the Corps of the L : 
Ambrose Duddeley, who after the deceases of his elder 
bretheren without issue was sonne and heir to lohn 
Duke of Northumberlande, to whom Q : Elizabeth in y® 
first year of her reigne gave the manor of Kibworth 
Beauchamp in the county of Leyc : to be held by y^ 
service of beinge Pantler to y*" Kings and Queens of this 
realme at their Coronations, which office and manor 
his said father and other his ancestors Earls of Warr : 
helde. In the seconde yeare of her reigne y^ said 
Queue gave him the office of Mayster of the Ordinavnce. 
In her fowrth yeare of her sayd reigne, she created him 
Baron Lisle and Erie of Warwyk. 'In the same yeare 
she made him her Livetenant Generall in Normandy, 
and dvring the tyme of his services there he was chosen 
Knight of y"" noble order of y^ Garter. In the twelvth 
yeare of her reigne y^ said Erie & Edward L : Clinton 
L : Admerall of England were made Livetenantes 
Generall joinctley and severally of her Ma"®^ army in 
the north partes. In the Thirteenth yeare of her reigne 
the sayd Qvene bestowed on him y® office of Chief 
Bvtler of England, and in the xvth yeare of her reigne 
he was sworne of her Prevye Covnsell. Who departinge 
this lief w^'out issue y^ xxi*'' day of Febrvary, 1589, at 
Bedford Howse, neare the city of London, from whence 
as himself desired his corps was conveyed and interred 
in this place neare his brother Eobert E : of Leyc : and 

62 ST. mart's church. 

others his noble ancestors, w*''' was accomplished by his 
last and welbeloved wiefe y® Lady Anne Covntes of 
Warr : who in fvrther testimony of her faythfvll love 
towardes him bestowed this Monumet as a remebrance 
of him. 

The sides of the tomb are decorated with shields of 
Arras, beneath which are the following inscriptions: — 

South side. — The sayd Lord Ambrose Duddeley 
maried to his first wiefe x\nne dowghter and coheir 
of William Whorwood Esquier, Attorney Generall to 
Kinge Henry the Eyghte. , 

The said Lord Ambrose maried to his seconde wief 

Elizabeth dowghter of Sir Gilbert Taylboys Knight, 

sister and sole heir of George Lord Taylboys. 

The said Ambrose after he was Erie of Warwik 

maried to his third wife the Lady Ann eldest daughter 

to Francis Eusell Erie of Bedford Kt of y« Garter. 

North side. — John Duddeley Esq'" second sonne to 
John L : Duddeley and Knight of the Garter maried 
Elizabeth dowghter and heir of John Bramshott, Esq., 
and had issue Edmond Duddeley. 

Edm : Duddeley Esq'" one of ye Privie Counsell to 
K. Henrie 7 : maried Elizab. sister and sole heir of 
John Grey Viscoiit Lisle descended as heir to theldst 
do : and coheir of Eic : Beachap E : of Warr : & Elizab : 
his wief do : and heir of the L : Berkeley & heir of ye 
L : Lisle & Ties & had issue lo Duke of Northiib. 

ST. mary's chuech. 63 

John Duke of Northumberland Erie of Warr : 
Viscount Lisle and Knight of y® Garter maried lane do : 
and heir of S*" Edward Guildeford Knight and Elianor 
his wief sister and coheir to Thomas L : Lawarre and 
had issue the sayd L : Ambrose, 

At the east end is a large shield with the quarterings 
of Dudley impailing those of Eussell, beneath the former 
the motto, " Omnia Temp' Habet," and beneath the 
latter, "Che Sara Sara;" and at the west a large 
shield, containing the quarterings of Dudley alone, 
beneath which is the motto " Omnia Temp' Habet." 

Attached to the South wall of the Chapel, and near 
to the altar, is the tomb of Eobert Dudley, Lord 
Denbigh, the infant son of Eobert Dudley, Earl of 
Leicester, It is an altar-tomb, on which reposes an 
effigy of the noble infant, clothed in a long gown 
buttoned up the breast, over which falls a lace collar — 
the hands are prettily crossed on the breast — the head 
is bound with a circlet of jewels, and rest on a cushion, 
while at the feet lies a chained bear, at the back of the 
tomb is a shield with sixteen quarterings, and on the 
front of the tomb is the following inscription: — 

Heere resteth the body of the noble Impe Eobert 
of Dvdley Bar' of Denbigh, sonne of Eobert Erie of 
Leycester, nephew and heire vnto Ambrose Erie of 
Warwike ; bretherne, both son'es of the mightie Prince 
John late Dvke of Northvmberland, and was covsin and 
heire to S'* John Grey Viscont Lysle, covsin and heire 
to S^ Thomas Talbot Viscont Lysle, nephew and heire 
vnto the Lady Margaret Covntesse of Shrewsbvry, and 

64 ST. maey's church. 

eldest davghter and coheire of the noble Erie of War- 
wike S^ Eichard Beavchamp heere enterrid : a child of 
greate parentage bvt of farre greater hope and toward- 
nes, taken from this transitory vnto the everlastinge 
life, in his tender age, at Wanstead in Essex, on 
Svndaye, the 19 of luly in the yeare of ovr Lorde God 
1584. Beinge the xxvth yere of the happy reigne 
of the most vertvovs and godly Princis Qveene Eliza- 
beth ; And in this place layed up emonge his noble 
avncestors, in assvred hope of the generall resurrection. 

Over the door leading from the Chapel to the Oratory 
is a mural table containing the following inscription to 
the memory of the Lady Catherine Leveson : — 

To the memory of the Lady Katherine (late wife of 
Sr Eichard Leveson of Trentham, in the county of 
Staff. Kt. of the Bath), one of the daughters and coheirs 
of Sr EoB. Dudley, Knt. son to Eobert late Earl of 
Leicester, by Alicia, his wife* daughter to Sr Tho. 
Leigh of Stoneley, Knt and Bart (created Dutchess 
Dudley, by K. Charles I. in regard y* her said husband, 
leaving his Eealme, had ye title of a Duke confer'd 
upon him by Ferdinand II. Empr. of Germany), w'ch 
hon'bl lady taking notice y* these tombs of her noble 
ancestors being much blemisht by consuming time, but 
more by ye rude hands of impious people, where in 
danger of utter ruine by ye decay of this Chapell, if not 
timely prevented, did in her life time giue fifty pounds 
for its speedy repair : and by her last Will and Testament 
bearing date xviii Dec. 1673, bequeath forty pounds _per 

* A Noble monument to the memory of this Lady is erected in 
the Chancel of Stoneleigh Church, near Kenilworth. 


annum issuing out of her mannour of Foxley, in ye 
County of Northampton, for its perpetuall support and 
preservation of these Monuments in their proper state ; 
ye surplusage to be for the poor brethren of her Grand- 
father's Hospitall in this Borough; appointing William 
Dygdale of Blythe Hall in this county Esq., (who 
represented to her ye necessity of this good worke) and 
his heires, together with the Mayor of Warwick for 
the time being, to be her trustees therein. 

The exterior of the Chapel is covered with rich 
tracery and architectural embellishments ; between 
each window are widely projected buttresses, which, 
narrowing to the top, terminate in a light and elegant 
pinnacle ; the eastern gable is ornamented with alto 
relievos of the Virgin and Child, between Simeon and 
Anna the prophetess, and below is a shield bearing the 
Arms, now much obliterated, of the De Newburghs. 

St. Paul's Church has lately been erected in a 
thickly populated district at the west end of the town. 
It is very unpretending in appearance, and contains 
nothing worthy of notice. 

St. Nicholas' Church is situate near the entrance 
to the Castle Grounds. There is reason to believe that 
its site was occupied by a religious house long prior to 
the Conquest. Eous states that the Chancel of the 
Church standing in his day had been the choir of an 
ancient nunnery, destroyed by the Danes in 1016 ; which 
nunnery, he states, occupied the whole of the church- 
yard, and part of the neighbouring Hospital of St. John. 
The present church though faulty in its general outline 


— in its proportion and its detail (says Mr. Bloxam), is 
nevertheless interesting from the fact of its being one of 
the earliest Churches erected towards the close of the 
last century, on the incipient revival of ancient ecclesi- 
astical architecture. A new Choir has lately been 
added in exceedingly good taste, and an attempt made 
to improve the interior of the building. The monuments 
are few and not remarkable. All Saints' Church, 
situate on the left of the road leading to Leamington, 
has lately been built by subscription to supply the 
pressing wants of a dense and poor population. It is 
a very handsome structure, and contains many stained 
glass windows and a reredos of Venetian Mosaic, well 
worthy of inspection. The interior is very handsomely 
decorated. St. John's is a fine old building situate at 
the east end of the town. It was founded in the reign 
of Henry II, by William de Newburgh, as an Hospital 
of St. John the Baptist, for the relief of the poor and 
the entertainment of strangers : it however ceased to 
exist long prior to the dissolution. 

The Priory of St. Sepulchre was commenced by 
Henry de Newburgh, Earl of Warwick, but was not 
completed till the days of Roger his son ; for in his time 
did Simon, Bishop of Worcester, consecrate the altar 
here as also the churchyard, for the sepulture only of 
the canons there serving God. It was founded, as 
before stated, on the site of the ancient church of St. 
Helen's, for a Society of Canons regular, in imitation 
of one established at the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. 
In the Liber Regis it was retained at £41 19s. 2d., and 


at the dissolution was granted to Thomas Fisher, who 
"pulled to the ground the Monastery, and raised in the 
place of it a very fair house, which is yet to be seen." 
His son sold it to Sergeant Puckering, Lord Keeper of 
the Great Seal, in whose family it continued until pur- 
chased by Henry Wise, Esq. It is now the property 
of S. S. Lloyd, Esq. 

The King's School, which, recent research has 
shewn, existed in 1123, is now removed to a very 
handsome building recently erected near the Castle 
Bridge, is intended, under the Charter of Henry VIII., 
to provide education in the learned languages for the 
native children of the town free of expense. The 
constitution of this School is entirely altered by a new 
scheme under the Endowed Schools Commission. A 
classical and commercial education is now offered to 
students who can pass a moderately easy examination, 
on the following terms, viz. : for the children of parents 
residing in the borough, £3 per term. For children of 
non-residents, £4 per term. And the Head Master is 
empowered under the scheme to receive a limited 
number of boarders for £13 6s. 8d. per term. This 
includes washing, and there are no extras. Arrange- 
ments are made by which a dinner is provided at a fixed 
tariff for boys who come from a distance. There are 
also several exhibitions, tenable for four years, at places 
of higher education, as well as for partial and total 
remission of fees in the school itself. 

A Boys' Middle School, under the management of 
the same Board of Governors, has recently been erected 
on the Butts, for a sound general education at the low 

68 leycester's hospital. 

rate of £1 6s. 8d, per term for children of residents in 
the borough, agd £1 13s. 4d. for non-residents. A High 
School for Girls has been opened, under the same 
scheme, on a really good educational basis. For a list 
of the fees payable see the end of this book. Full 
particulars of these excellent schools may be obtained 
on application to E. C. Heath, Esq., of Warwick, who 
is clerk to the Governors. 


This truly interesting building was amongst the few 
edifices that escaped the general conflagration of 1694, 
in which the greater part of the town of Warwick was 
consumed. It is owing to this circumstance that it 
presents at this day one of the most perfect specimens 
of the half- timber buildings which exist in this county. 
It is situated at the west end of High Street, to w^hich 
its chapel, with a bold and beautiful eastern window 
which has recently been placed where a former one had 
previously existed, forms a very striking termination. 
Below the chapel is a singular vaulted passage of very 
great antiquity, and through which the street, or 
entrance into the town formerly passed. The solid 
sandstone rock here rises out of the earth in huge blocks 
and forms a natural foundation for the building to rest 
upon. The tower, which was built by Thomas de 
Beauchamp, temp. Eichard II., rises above the chapel; 
whilst below, it forms, with a richly-groined ceiling, the 
western gateway of the once strongly fortified town of 

leycester's hospital. 69 

Warwick. The hinges on which the ponderous gates 
once swung are still visible in the side walls, as also 
the perforations for the reception of the massive bars. 
The building was originally used as the halls of the 
United Guilds, or lay fraternities of the Holy Trinitv 
and the Blessed Virgin, and of St. George the Martyr, 
which were established 6 Eichard II. and dissolved by 
an Act of Parliament 37 Hen. VIII. After the disso- 
lution it was granted to Sir Nicholas Le Strange, Knt., 
4 Edward VI., but in the succeeding reign it was vested 
in the bailiff and burgesses of the borough of Warwick, 
who, 14th Elizabeth 1571, conveyed it, but whether by 
purchase or otherwise does not appear, to Eobert Lord 
Dudley, Earl of Leycester, and converted by him into 
an Hospital for a Master and 12 brethren. He obtained 
an Act of Incorporation for it, 1571, and constituted it 
a collegiate body with a common seal, by the style and 
title of " the Hospital of Eobert, Earl of Leycester, in 
Warwick. ' ' The Visitors being the Bishop of Worcester, 
the Archdeacon of Worcester,and the Dean of Worcester. 
In the Act of Incorporation Lord Leycester calls it his 
Maison Dieu, on which account, with the greatest pro- 
priety, the gate posts are entwined with texts of scripture, 
whilst other texts are conspicuously and judiciously 
scattered through the building, reminding the master 
and brethren of their relative duties, and of their moral 
and religious obligations. Thomas Cartwright, the 
celebrated puritan reformer, was named by Lord Ley- 
cester, in the Act of Incorporation, as the first Master; 
he resided with his family in the master's lodge, in the 
Hospital (except at such times as he was imprisoned jn 

70 leycester's hospital. 

the Queen's Bench, at the instance of Archbishop 
Whitgift, for nonconformity). He died in the Hospital 
Dec. 27, 1603, and lies buried in the adjoining Church 
of St. Mary's in Warwick. It was required by the 
statutes of the founder that the master should be a 
clergyman, in full orders of the Church of England, 
whilst the places of brethren were to be filled, first, by 
the tenants and retainers of the said Earl and of his 
heirs, especially those that had been wounded under 
the conduct of Lord Leycester, or of his heirs, in the 
wars, provided they had resided a certain time either in 
the counties of Warwick or Gloucester; by the Queen's 
soldiers, especially those that have been wounded, 
according to a rotation of towns and villages specified in 
the Act of Incorporation, namely, Warwick, Kenilworth, 
Stratford-on-Avon, Wootton-under-Edge, and Erling- 
ham. As Lord Leycester' s heirs have of late years 
possessed no tenants or retainers in the counties of 
Warwick or Gloucester, the brethren have for a length 
of time been regularly appointed from each of the above 
places in turn. The property of the Hospital consists 
of farms in the county of Warwick, and of tythes in 
the counties of Gloucester and Lancaster. The original 
allowance to the brethren is now, by an Act of Parlia- 
ment, limited to £80 per annum, besides the privileges 
of the house. Each brother has separate apartments. 
There is also a common kitchen, with housekeeper and 
porter to cook for and attend to- them. The brethren 
are obliged by statute always to wear a livery when 
abroad, which consists of a handsome blue broadcloth 
gown, with a silver badge of a bear and ragged staff, 

leycester's hospital. 71 

Lord Leycester's crest, suspended on the left sleeve 
behind.* As both Lord Leycester and his brother 
Ambrose, the good Earl of Warwick, died without off- 
spring, their sister, Lady Mary, wife of Sir Henry 
Sidney, K.G,, and Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, became 
the sole heiress of both her brothers, the Earls of 
Warwick and Leycester, and of her father, John, Duke 
of Northumberland. In consequence of this circum- 
stance, the Lord de Lisle, of Penhurst Castle, as Lord 
Leycester's heir general, appoints the master and 
brethren according to Statute. A late master, the 
Eev. Philip Sidney Harris, M.A., a cousin of Lord de 
Lisle, is the second of Lord Leycester's family who has 
presided over his Lordship's foundation. The present 
master is the Eev. Geo. Morley, M.A. The buildings, 
though very ancient, are in good repair, and present 
some beautiful specimens of half-timbered architecture, 
especially in the fine old roofs. The quadrangle con- 
tains, on the north side, the Master's Lodge, on the 
east, the Master's apartments and the common kitchen, 
on the west, what was originally a large hall, but 
which has now been dismantled and converted into 
offices, where (according to a tablet placed therein) King 
James I. w^as right sumptuously entertained by Sir 
Fulke Greville, and on the south and west sides, the 
rooms for the brethren. It is richly adorned with the 
16 quarterings of Lord Leycester's Arms, separately 
emblazoned, as on his own and on that of his son's 

* The badges still in use are the identical badges worn by the first 
brethren appointed by Lord Leycester, with the exception of one, 
which was cut off and stolen about fifty j'ears ago. It cost five 
guineas to replace it. The names of the original possessors and 
date, 1571, are engraved on the back of each. 

72 leycesteb's hospital. 

monument in the Beauchamp Chapel, with the Sidney 
Arms added, along with the bear and ragged staff and 
porcupine, the former Lord Leycester's and the latter 
the Sidney's crest. The front of the Hospital displays 
a beautiful specimen of half-timbered building, with a 
very fine gable, having richly carved verge boards, and 
is emblazoned with the armorial bearings of Lord 
Leycester's ancestors, his crest and initials (E.L.) and 
motto, " Droit et Loyal," exactly as they appear on the 
celebrated alabaster mantlepiece, exhibited at the gate- 
way of Kenil worth Castle. On the first of July in 
every year the statutes of the Hospital are required to 
be publicly read in the Chapel, where they are also 

The interior of the Chapel has lately been entirely 
renovated, a fine timber roof put on, and newly fitted 
with carved oak stalls, and the east window filled with 
stained glass ; the whole from designs by Mr. G. G. 
Scott, the famous architect. In this Chapel the 
brethren assemble morning and evening daily, to hear 
a selection of prayers from the Liturgy, which is made 
at the discretion of the Master, except when there is 
service at St. Mary's, when they are required to attend 

Behind the Hospital is a kitchen garden, from the 
terraces of which a beautiful and extensive view is 
obtained. The produce of the garden is equally divided 
between the master and the brethren. 

In the centre of the garden, on a square pedestal^ 
stands a vase, which formerly crowned a Nilometer, or 
one of the pillars which mark the rise of the Nile : this 

leycester's hospital, 73 

curious and beautiful relic of Egyptian art formerly 
stood in the centre of the grand Conservatory in the 
gardens of Warwick Castle, whence it was removed to 
make way for the celebrated Warwick Vase, and pre- 
sented to the Hospital by a late Earl of Warwick, as 
appears from the inscription on the north side of the 
pedestal, from the classic pen of Dr. Parr, which we 
subjoin : — 





The western side of the pedestal contains the follow- 
ing lines from the pen of a late master — The Eev. J. 
Kendall — whose name is also inscribed on the south 
side, in Latin, as having caused the vase to be placed 
there : — 

In oral times e'er yet the Prophet's pen, 
God's laws inscribed, and taught his ways to men, 
The sculptured Vase in Memphian temples stood. 
The Sphere's rich symbol of prolific flood : 
Wise antients knew, when Crater rose to sight, 
Nile's festive deluge had sustained its height. 
In visiting the Hospital one is led to contrast the 
present flourishing condition of it, with the utter des- 
truction of the proud abode of its illustrious founder — 
the Castle of Kenilworth, with its farms, parks, and 
chases : these were found by the Commissioners 
appointed to survey it by James I., to be between 19 
and 20 miles in circumference ; and not a rood of this 
noble property ever descended to Lord Leycester's heirs. 
His base son, as in his will he calls Sir Eobert Dudley, 



and to whom he left the property, appears hterally to 
have been defrauded of the whole by the government of 
the day, by means of a Star Chamber process, on which 
account, having previously left the kingdom, he never 


The Museum, over the Market Hall, is well worthy 
of a visit ; there is a good collection of birds, especially 
British, many local Archaeological curiosities, some fine 
Indian stone carvings, and there are few museums 
which have such a well-arranged and interesting collec- 
tion of fossils. 


Mr. Kendall, the pupil and successor to the late 
Mr. Wilcox (who was widely known for his talent as a 
wood carver), follows successfully in his master's steps. 
His w^orks are of great reputation, and no one should 
omit a visit to this magnificent collection of carvings. 

Messrs. Plucknett and Co., (the successors to 
Messrs. Cookes and Sons, makers of the " Kenilworth 
Buffet,") are worthily maintaining the reputation 
acquired by their predecessors as manufacturers of 
carved furniture. 

At Messrs. Cooke and Son's Fine Art Eepository, 
in the High Street, may be viewed a very extensive 
collection of Photographs, and other requirements of 
visitors, which are well worthy of an inspection. 


By William Wintek, beautifully illustrated, price 6/- 

A smaller and cheaper edition of the same, without illustrations, 2/- 


A Series of English Sketches, by Nathaniel 
Hawthorne, price 1/- 

Shakespeare and his Birthplace. 

Oblong 8vo, with lovely illustrations in color, 7/6 

Warwick Castle : Its History and 

By the Eev. Thurston Eivington, Domestic Chaplain 
to the Earl of Warwick, 1/- 


By William Black, 2/6 

William Shakespeare As He Lived. 

The true story of Shakespeare's Life, woven into an 
Historical Tale, by Captain Curling, 2/- 






Warwick. Kenilworth, 


GuY's Gliffe, Leamington, 


Shakespeare Country. 


Pr)otio6rapl)ic o bores, 


These Photographs have been suppUed by Messrs. 
H. T. GooKE AND Son, by command to Hek 
Majesty the Queen; H.E.H. The Prince of 
Wales; H.E.H. The Duke of York; H.E.H. 
The Duchess of Teck ; The Shah of Persia ; 
The King of Saxony, etc., etc. 


TO-^- 210 Wurster Hall 642-4818 


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FORM NO. DDl 3, 74m, 3/78 BERKELEY, CA 94720