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THE GIFT OF
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IN MEMORY OF
ALEXANDER F MORRISON
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HALF-HOURS
OF
Travel at Home and Abroad
SELECTED AND ARRANGED BY
CHARLES MORRIS
ASIA
ILLUSTRATED
PHILADELPHIA
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
1896
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Copyright, 1896,
BT
J. B. Lippincott Company.
Electbotyped and Printed bv J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia, U.S.A.
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GI70
M£3A
v. 3
CONTENTS.
SUBJECT. AUTHOB. PAGl
Petra and Mecca John Lewis Burckhardt . . 7
Travels in Oman and Hadramaut . . . . J. R. Wellsted 17
Crossing the Arabian Desert William G. Palgraye ... 27
The Mocha Coffee District Carstens Niebuhr 37
In the Capital of Nedjed William G. Palgrave ... 44
A Pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina . . Richard F. Burton 57
A Shipwreck on the Coast of Oman . . . William G. Palgrave ... 69
Jerusalem, the Holy City Eliot Warburton ..... 83
Baalbec, the City of the Sun William C. Prime 95
Damascus, the Pearl of the Orient . . . Bayard Taylor 106
The Giant Cities of Bashan J. L. Porter 117
The Wonders of Nineveh Austen Henry Layard . . . 130
The Palace and Jewels of the Shah . . . Arthur Arnold 139
The Tombs and Palaces of Classic Persia Arthur Arnold I 148
Nautch Dancers and Hindoo Actors . . . Anna Harriette Leonowens 158
The Marvels of Mogul Architecture . . . Joseph Moore 167
Boar-Hunting in India W. Gordon Cumming .... 179
Caves of Ellora and City of Nashik . . . Anna Harriette Leonowens 188
The Lair of the Tiger W. Gordon Cumming .... 198
An Elephant Kraal in Ceylon Joseph Moore 209
The Venice of the East Sir John Bowring 217
The Footstep of Buddha Bishop Pallegoix 230
A Visit to Chantaboun Henry Mouhot 235
The Elephant in Siam Sir John Bowring 248
The Vale of Cashmere G. T. Vigne 257
Central Asia in the Thirteenth Century . Marco Polo 272
A Counterfeit Dervish in Khiva .... Arminius Vambery 286
A Journey through Yarkand Robert Shaw 298
Little Tibet G. T. Vigne 310
Through Tibet to Lhassa Evariste R. Hue 320
Crossing the Karakorum Pass Robert Shaw 330
The Source of the Oxus John Wood 335
The Tea Districts of China Robert Fortune 346
3
4L S9
4 CONTENTS.
SUBJECT. AUTHOB. PAGE
Reception of General Grant at Canton . John M. Keating 354
Peking, as seen from its Walls C. F. Gordon Cumming . . . 367
The Lama Feast of Flowers Evariste R. Hue 378
A Captive in Japan Wassili Golownin 384
Among Strange Scenes and Customs . . Aime Humbert 397
Scenery of Japan Sir Rutherford Alcock . . . 412
Walks in Yedo Aime Humbert 424
Life and Scenery in Mongolia Evariste R. Hue 440
Scenes from Pastoral Life among the
Kirghis Nomads Thomas W. Atkinson .... 452
Across the Steppes to Khiva Frederick Burnaby .... 464
A Pedestrian in Siberia John Dundas Cochrane . . . 475
A Siberian Tragedy Thomas W. Atkinson .... 486
The Tragedy of the Lena Delta .... George W. Melville .... 496
LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS.
PAGE
Black Marble Pavilion, Cashmere .... Frontispiece.
An Arab Sheikh 44
Great Stone in Quarry, Baalbek 95
The Ruins of Persepolis 148
Soldiers of the Himalayas 298
Buddhist Temple, Kioto 424
HALF-HOURS
OP
Travel at Home and Abroad.
PETRA AND MECCA.
JOHN LEWIS BURCKHARDT.
[John Lewis Burckhardt, one of the most famous of Oriental travel-
lers, the discoverer of the city of Petra and the first Christian traveller
to visit Mecca and Medina, was of Swiss origin, being born at Lausanne,
on the Lake of Geneva, in 1784. He received a university education
at Leipsic and Gottingen, and in 1806 proceeded to London, where he
became acquainted with Sir Joseph Banks, an active member of the
African Association, and offered his services to explore the interior of
Africa. For this purpose he studied Arabic, spent some time in travel-
ling through Syria, and then proceeded to Cairo, as the starting-point
in his African exploration. Finding no opportunity for that journey,
he proceeded to Nubia, and in 1814 made his way to Mecca, being the
first European to reach that celebrated city. He returned to Cairo,
and waited there for the Fezzan caravan, with which he was to pro-
ceed on his African journey. "While thus waiting he was seized with
dysentery, and died October 15, 1817. He was buried, as a holy pil-
grim, in the Moslem cemetery. From his "Travels in Syria" we
extract his account of the discovery of Petra, a city of remarkable
character, the former capital of Arabia Petrsea, but never before visited
by a European traveller.]
The valley of Ghor [that of the Jordan and the Dead
Sea] is continued to the south of the Dead Sea ; at about
7
8 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burckhardt
sixteen hours' distance from the extremity of the Dead
Sea its name is changed into that of Araba, and it runs in
almost a straight line, declining somewhat to the west, as
far as Akaba, at the extremity of the eastern branch of
the Red Sea. The existence of this valley appears to have
been unknown to ancient as well as to modern geographers,
although it is a very remarkable feature in the geography
of Syria and Arabia Petraea, and is still more interesting
for its productions. In this valley the manna is still found ;
it drops from the sprigs of several trees, but principally
from the Gharrab. It is collected by the Arabs, who make
cakes of it and who eat it with butter ; they call it Assal
Beyrook, or the honey of Beyrook. Indigo, gum-arabic,
and the silk-tree called Asheyr, whose fruit encloses a
white, silky substance of which the Arabs twist their
matches, grow in this valley.
[Petra, a city lost to the world for fifteen hundred years, occupies a
rock chasm, through which runs a small stream, in this valley. The
difficulty of reaching it is thus described.]
I was particularly desirous of visiting Wady Moussa, of
the antiquities of which I had heard the country people
speak in terms of great admiration, and from thence I had
hoped to cross the desert in a straight line to Cairo ; but
my guide was afraid of the hazards of a journey through
the desert, and insisted on my taking the road to Akaba,
the ancient Ezion-geber, at the extremity of the eastern
branch of the Red Sea, where, he said, we might join some
caravan and continue our route towards Egypt. I wished,
on the contrary, to avoid Akaba, as I knew that the Pasha
of Egypt kept there a numerous garrison to watch the
movements of the "Wahabees and of his rival, the Pasha
of Damascus. A person, therefore, like myself, coming
from the latter place, without any papers to show who I
Bcrckhardt] PETRA AND MECCA. 9
was or why I had taken that circuitous route, would cer-
tainly have roused the suspicions of the officer command-
ing at Akaba, and the consequencos might have been dan-
gerous to me among the savage soldiery of that garrison.
The road from Shobak to Akaba lies to the east of Wady
Moussa, and to have quitted it out of mere curiosity to see
the wady would have looked suspicious in the eyes of the
Arabs. I therefore pretended to have made a vow to slaugh-
ter a goat in honor of Haroun (Aaron), whose tomb I knew
was situated at the extremity of the valley, and by this
stratagem I thought that I should have the means of seeing
the valley on my way to the tomb. To this my guide had
nothing to oppose ; the dread of drawing down upon him-
self by resistance the wrath of Haroun completely silenced
him.
I hired a guide to Eldjy to conduct me to Haroun's
tomb, and paid him with a pair of old horse-shoes. He
carried the goat, and gave me a skin of water to carry,
as he knew there was no water in the wady below. In
following the rivulet of Eldjy westward, the valley soon
narrows again, and it is here that the antiquities of Wady
Moussa (Petra) begin. Of these I regret that I am not
able to give a very complete account'; but I knew well the
character of the people around me. I was without pro-
tection in the midst of a desert where no traveller had
ever before been seen, and a close examination of these
works of the infidels, as they are called, would have ex-
cited suspicions that I was a magician in search of treasures.
I should at least have been detained and prevented from
prosecuting my journey to Eg} 7 pt, and in all probability
should have been stripped of the little money which I pos-
sessed, and, what was of infinitely more value to me, of
my journal. Future travellers may visit the spot under
the protection of an armed force; the inhabitants will
10 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burckhardt
become more accustomed to the researches of strangers,
and the antiquities of Wady Moussa will then be found to
rank among the most curious works of ancient art.
[The approach to Wady Moussa is a ravine, in places only twelve
feet wide, and with rocky walls one hundred feet high. Along this
ravine are the most famous ruin of Petra, the Khusna, or "treasury
of Pharaoh," and a theatre, hoth cut in the solid rock. The floor
of the valley within, ahout two miles wide, is strewn with ruins.
Burckhardt described as well as his memory would permit the hun-
dreds of sepulchral rock chambers, the mausolea, the Khusna, etc.,
but far more complete and elaborate descriptions have since been
given. His partial observation was not unattended with danger, in
arousing the suspicions of the guide.]
Near the west end of Wady Moussa are the remains of
a stately edifice, of which part of the wall is still stand-
ing; the inhabitants call it Kasr Bint Faraoun, or the
palace of Pharaoh's daughter. In my way I had entered
several sepulchres, to the surprise of my guide, but when
he saw me turn out of the foot-path towards the Kasr, he
exclaimed, " I see now clearly that you are an infidel, who
have some particular business among the ruins of the city
of your forefathers ; but depend upon it, that we shall not
suffer you to take out a single para of all the treasures hidden
therein, for they are in our territory and belong to us."
I replied that it was mere curiosity that prompted me
to look at the ancient works, and that I had no other view
in coming there than to sacrifice to Haroun ; but he was
not easily persuaded, and I did not think it prudent to
irritate him by too close an inspection of the palace, as it
might have led him to declare, on our return, his belief
that I had found treasures, which might have led to a
search of my person and to the detection of my journal,
which would most certainly have been taken from me as
a book of magic. It was of no avail to tell them to follow
Burckhardt] PETRA AND MECCA. 11
me, and see whether I searched for money. Their reply-
was, " Of course you will not dare to take it out before us,
but we know that if you are a skilful magician you will
order it to follow you through the air to whatever place
you please."
The sun had already set when we arrived on the plain.
It was too late to reach the tomb, and I was excessively
fatigued ; I therefore hastened to kill the goat in sight of
the tomb, at a spot where I found a number of heaps of
stones, placed there in token of as many sacrifices in honor
of that saint. While I was in the act of slaying the animal
my guide exclaimed aloud, " O Haroun, look upon us I it
is for you we slaughter this victim ! O Haroun, be con-
tent with our good intentions, for it is but a lean goat ! O
Haroun, smooth our paths ; and praise be to the Lord of
all creatures I" This he repeated several times, after which
he covered the blood that had fallen to the ground with a
heap of stones ; we then dressed the best part of the flesh
for our supper as expeditiously as possible, for the guide
was afraid of the fire being seen, and of its attracting
thither some robbers.
[On his return, Burckhardt joined a small caravan which was pro-
ceeding to Cairo with camels to sell. He continues :]
We crossed the valley of Araba, ascended on the other
side of it the barren mountain of Beyane, and entered the
desert called El Tih, which is the most barren and horrid
tract of country I have ever seen ; black flints cover the
chalky or sandy ground, which in most places is without
any vegetation. The tree which produces the gum-arabic
grows in some spots, and the tamarisk is met with hero
and there ; but the scarcity of water forbids much extent
of vegetation, and the hungry camels are obliged to go in
the evening for whole hours out of the road in order to find
12 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Btjrckhardt
some withered shrubs upon which to feed. During ten
days' forced marches we passed only four springs or wells,
of which one only, at about eight hours east of Suez, was
of sweet water. The others were brackish or sulphurous.
We passed at a short distance to the north of Suez, and
arrived at Cairo by the pilgrim road.
[At a later date Burckhardt crossed the Ked Sea from Suakin to
Jidda, the port of Mecca, and made his way to the Mohammedan
holy city under the guise of a devout Mussulman. His professed
purpose was to visit the pasha, Mohammed Ali, at Tayf, and the
guide had heen ordered to conduct him by a road which lay to the
north of Mecca.]
Just before we left Hadda my guide, who knew nothing
further respecting me than that I had business with the
pasha at Tayf, that I performed all the outward obser-
vances of a Moslem pilgrim, and that I had been liberal
to him before our departure, asked me the reason of his
having been ordered to take me by the northern road. I
replied that it was probably thought shorter than the
other. " That is a mistake," he replied ; " the Mecca road
is quite as short, and much safer; and if you have no
objection we will proceed by that." This was just what
I wished, though I had taken care not to betray any
anxiety on the subject ; and we accordingly followed the
great road, in company with the other travellers.
[He was hurried through the city, however, and on August 27, 1814,
reached a place named Eas el Kora.]
This is the most beautiful spot in the Hedjah, and more
picturesque and delightful than any spot I had seen since
my departure from Lebanon, in Syria. The top of Jebel
Kora is flat, but large masses of granite lie scattered over
it, the surface of which, like that of the granite rocks near
Bubckhardt] PETRA AND MECCA. 13
the second cataract of the Nile, is blackened by the sun.
Several small rivulets descend from this peak and irrigate
the plain, -which is covered with verdant fields and large
shady trees on the side of the granite rocks. To those
who have only known the dreary and scorching sands of
the lower country of the Hedjah, the scene is as surprising
as the keen air which blows here is refreshing. Many of
the fruit-trees of Europe are found here: figs, apricots,
peaches, apples, the Egyptian sycamore, almonds, pome-
granates, but particularly vines, the produce of which is
of the best quality. After having passed through this
delightful district for about half an hour, just as the sun
was rising, when every leaf and blade of grass diifused a
fragrance as delicious to the smell as was the landscape to
the eye, I halted near the largest of the rivulets, which,
although not more than two paces across, nourishes upon
its banks a green alpine turf such as the mighty Nile, with
all its luxuriance, can never produce in Egypt.
[After his visit to the pasha, whom he satisfied that he was a true
believer, he was permitted to return to Mecca, where he proceeded to
inspect the city, and particularly the Kaaba, its principal curiosity,
•'an oblong massive structure eighteen paces in length, fourteen in
breadth, and from thirty-five to forty feet in height."]
At the northeast corner of the Kaaba, near the door, is
the famous " Black Stone ;" it forms a part of the sharp
angle of the building at four or five feet above the ground.
It is an irregular oval of about seven inches in diameter,
with an undulating surface, composed of about a dozen
smallor stones of different sizes and shapes, well joined
together with a small quantity of cement, and perfectly
smoothed. It looks as if the whole had been broken into
many pieces by a violent blow, and then united again. It
is very difficult to determine accurately the quality of this
2
14 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Btjrckhardt
stone, which has been worn to its present surface by the
millions of touches and kisses it has received. It appeared
to me like a lava, containing several small extraneous par-
ticles of a whitish and of a yellowish substance. Its color
is now a deep reddish-brown, approaching to black. It is
surrounded on all sides by a border, composed of a sub-
stance which I took to be a close cement of pitch and
gravel, of a similar, but not quite the same, brownish
color. This border serves to support its detached pieces.
It is of two or three inches in breadth, and rises a little
above the surface of the stone. Both the border and the
stone itself are encircled by a silver band, broader below
than above and on the two sides, with a considerable
swelling below, as if a part of the stone were hidden
under it. The lower part of the border is studded with
silver nails.
[In November the Syrian caravan of pilgrims arrived, and all was
life and bustle. On November 24 a great procession took place to
Mount Arafat, near the city. It formed an immense throng, com-
posed of persons from all quarters of the Mohammedan world, in
whose diverse speech Burckhardt counted forty languages. He de-
scribes the remarkable scene revealed at the dawn of the next day.]
Every pilgrim issued from his tent to walk over the
plains and take a view of the busy crowds assembled there.
Long streets of tents, fitted up as bazaars, furnished all
kinds of provisions. The Syrian and Egyptian cavalry
were exercised by their chiefs early in the morning, while
thousands of camels were seen feeding on the dry shrubs
of the plain all around the camp. . . .
The Syrian Hadj was encamped on the south and south-
west side of the mountain [an isolated mass of granite
about two hundred feet high] ; the Egyptian on the south-
east. Around the house of the Sherif, Yahya himself
Burckhardt] PETRA AND MECCA. 15
was encamped with his Bedouin troops, and in its neigh-
borhood were all the Hedjaz people. Mohammed Ali, and
Soleyman, Pasha of Damascus, as well as several of their
officers, had very handsome tents ; but the most magnifi-
cent of all was that of the wife of Mohammed Ali, the
mother of Foossoon Pasha and Ibraham Pasha, who had
lately arrived from Cairo for the Hadj with a truly royal
equipage, five hundred camels being necessary to transport
her baggage from Jidda to Mecca. Her tent was in fact
an encampment, consisting of a dozen tents of different
sizes inhabited by her women; the whole enclosed by a
wall of linen cloth eight hundred paces in circuit, the
single entrance to which was guarded by eunuchs in
splendid dresses. Around this enclosure were pitched the
tents of the men who formed her numerous suite. The
beautiful embroidery on the exterior of this linen palace,
with the varied colors displayed in every part of it, con-
stituted an object which reminded me of some descriptions
in the Arabian Tales of the Thousand and the One Nights.
[A sermon from the top of the mountain, which is preached in the
closing hours of the afternoon, constitutes the holy ceremony of the
Hadj, and no pilgrim who is not present at it is entitled to the name
of hadji.]
The two pashas, with their whole cavalry drawn up in
two squadrons behind them, took their post in the rear of
the deep lino of camels of the hadj is, to which those of
the people of the Hedjaz were also joined ; and here they
waited in solemn and respectful silence the conclusion of
the sermon. Further removed from the preacher was the
Sherif Yahya, with his small body of soldiers, distinguished
by several green standards carried before him. The two
mahmals, or holy camels, which carry on their backs the
high structure that serves as the banner of their respective
16 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burckhardt
caravans, made way with difficulty through the ranks of
camels that encircled the southern and eastern sides of
the hill opposite to the preacher, and took their station,
surrounded by their guards, directly under the platform
in front of him. The preacher, or Khatyb, who is usually
the Kadi of Mecca, was mounted upon a finely-caparisoned
camel, which had been led up to the steps ; it being tradi-
tionally said that Mohammed was always seated when he
addressed his followers, a practice in which he was imitated
by all the caliphs who came to the Hadj, and who from
thence addressed their subjects in person. The Turkish
gentleman of Constantinople, however, unused to camel-
riding, could not keep his seat so well as the hardy Bedouin
prophet, and the camel becoming unruly, he was soon obliged
to alight from it. He read his sermon from a book in
Arabic which he held in his hands. At intervals of every
four or five minutes he paused and stretched forth his
arms to implore blessings from above, while the assembled
multitudes around and before him waved the skirts of
their ihrams over their heads and rent the air with shouts
of Lebeyk, Allah, huma, Lebeyk! "Here we are at thy
bidding, O God !" During the wavings of the ihrams, the
skirts of the mountain, thickly crowded as it was by the
people in their white garments, had the appearance of a
cataract of water, while the green umbrellas, with which
several thousand hadjis sitting on their camels below were
provided, bore some resemblance to a verdant plain.
[At Medina, which he afterwards visited, he saw the tomb of
Mohammed. This he describes as surrounded by an iron railing,
in imitation of filigree work, with open-work inscriptions in yellow
bronze, the whole so close in texture that the interior can only be
seen through four small windows, set in the four sides of the rail-
ing. The tomb is concealed from the public gaze by a curtain of
rich silk brocade of various colors, interwoven with silver flowers and
.^ellsted] TRAVELS IN OMAN AND HAD RAMA UT. 17
arabesques, with inscriptions in gold characters running across tho
midst of it. Behind this curtain none but the chief eunuchs, the
attendants of the mosque, are permitted to enter. This holy sanc-
tuary once served as the public treasury of the nation, containing
numerous articles of value, which were carried away by the Waha-
bees when they sacked the sacred cities.]
TRAVELS IN OMAN AND HADRAMAUT.
J. R. WELLSTED.
[Tho most satisfactory account of the province of Oman — in south-
eastern Arabia — is that given by Lieutenant Wellsted, of the Indian
Navy, who was employed for several years in surveying the coasts of
southern and eastern Arabia. In 1835 he landed at Muscat with the
purpose of journeying to Derreyeh, in Nedjed, the capital of the Wa-
habees, which no traveller had previously reached. After a journey
of four days inland from the coast village of Sur, he reached the tents
of the tribe of Ben-Abu-Ali, by whom he was received with warm
demonstrations of friendship. He describes the war-dance given for
his entertainment.]
They formed a circle "within which five of their number
entered. After walking leisurely around for some time,
each challenged one of the spectators by striking him
gently with the flat of his sword. His adversary im-
mediately leaped forth and a feigned combat ensued.
They have but two cuts, one directly downward, at tho
head, the other horizontally, across the legs. They parry
neither with the sword nor shield, but avoid the blows by
leaping or bounding backward. The blade of their sword
is three feet in length, thin, double-edged, and as sharp as
a razor. As the}' carry it upright before them, by a
peculiar motion of the wrist they cause it to vibrate in
a very remarkable manner, which has a singularly striking
in.—* 2*
18 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Wellsted
effect when they are assembled in any considerable number.
It was part of the entertainment to fire off their match-
locks under the legs of some one of the spectators, who
appeared too intent on watching the game to observe
their approach, and any signs of alarm which incautiously
escaped the individual, added greatly to their mirth.
[Crossing the desert region, he reached the town of Ibrah, which is
thus described.]
There are some handsome houses in Ibrah ; but the stylo
of buildings is quite peculiar to this part of Arabia. To
avoid the damp and catch an occasional beam of the sun
above the trees, they are usually very lofty. A parapet
surrounding the upper part is turreted, and on some of
the largest houses guns are mounted. The windows and
doors have the Saracenic arch, and every part of the
building is profusely decorated with ornaments of stucco
in bas-relief, some in very good taste. The doors are also
cased with brass, and have rings and other massive orna-
ments of the same metal.
Ibrah is justly renowned for the beauty and fairness of
its females. Those we met on the streets evinced but little
shyness, and on my return to the tent I found it filled with
them. They were in high glee at all they saw ; every box
I had was turned over for their inspection, and whenever
I attempted to remonstrate against their proceedings they
stopped my mouth with their hands. With such damsels
there was nothing left but to laugh and look on.
[As he advanced the fertility of the country increased, and after
passing many small villages, separated by desert tracts, he reached
the town of Minna, near the foot of the Green Mountains.]
Minna differs from the other towns in having its culti-
vation in the open fields. As we crossed these, with lofty
Wellsted] TRA VELS IN OMAN AND HADRAMA UT. 19
almond-, citron-, and orange-trees yielding a delicious fra-
grance on either hand, exclamations of astonishment and
admiration hurst from us. "Is this Arabia?" we said;
"this the country we have looked on heretofore as a
desert?" Verdant fields of grain and sugar-cane stretch-
ing alone- for miles are before us ; streams of water, flow-
ing in all directions, intersect our path ; and the happy
and contented appearance of the peasants agreeably helps
to fill up the smiling picture. The atmosphere was de-
lightfully clear and pure; and, as we trotted joyously
along, giving or returning the salutations of peace or
welcome, I could almost fancy that we had at last reached
that "Araby the Blessed," which I had been accustomed
to regard as existing only in the fictions of our poets.
Minna is an old town, said to have been erected at the
period of Narhirvan's invasion ; but it bears, in common
with the other towns, no indications of antiquity ; its
houses are lofty, but do not differ from those of Ibrah
or Semmed. There are two square towers, about one
hundred and seventy feet in height, nearly in the centre
of the town ; at their bases the breadth of the wall is not
more than two feet, and neither side exceeds in length
eight yards. It is therefore astonishing, considering the
rudeness of the materials (they have nothing but unhewn
stones and a coarse but apparently strong cement), that,
with proportions so meagre, they should have been able
to carry them to their present elevation. The guards,
who are constantly on the lookout, ascend by means of a
rude ladder, formed by placing bars of wood in a diagonal
direction in one of tho side angles within the interior of
the building.
[Neswsih, still nearer the mountains, was next reached. On Christ-
mas-day he left this town for an excursion to the celebrated Green
Mountains. lie thus describes their delightful scenery :]
20 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Wellsted
By means of steps we descended the steep side of a
narrow glen, about four hundred feet in depth, passing
in our progress several houses perched on crags or other
acclivities, their walls built up in some places so as to ap-
pear but a continuation of the precipice. These small,
snug, compact-looking dwellings have been erected by the
natives one above the other, so that their appearance from
the bottom of the glen, hanging as it were in mid-air,
affords to the spectator a most novel and interesting
picture. Here we found, amid a great variety of fruits
and trees, pomegranates, citrons, almonds, nutmegs, and
walnuts, with coffee-bushes and vines. In the summer,
these together must yield a delicious fragrance ; but it
was now winter, and they were leafless. AVater flows in
many places from the upper part of the hills, and is
received at the lower in small reservoirs, whence it is
disti-ibuted all over the face of the country. From the
narrowness of this glen, and the steepness of its sides,
only the lower part of it receives the warmth of the
sun's rays for a short period of the day ; and even at
the time of our arrival we found it so chilly, that, after a
short halt, we were very happy to continue our journey.
[Lack of supplies and an attack of fever forced him to return to the
coast, during which the following interesting incident happened.]
Weary and faint from the fatigue of the day's journey,
in order to enjoy the freshness of the evening breeze, I
had my carpet spread beneath a tree. An Arab passing
by paused to gaze upon me, and, touched by my condition
and the melancholy which was depicted on my countenance,
he proffered the salutation of peace, pointed to the crystal
stream which sparkled at my feet, and said, " Look, friend,
for running water maketh the heart glad 1" With his
hands folded over his breast, that mute but most graceful
Wellsted] TRAVELS IN OMAN AND HADRAMAUT. 21
of Eastern salutations, ho bowed and passed on. I was in
a situation to estimate sympathy ; and so much of that
feeling was exhibited in the manner of this son of the
desert, that I have never since recurred to tho incident,
trifling as it is, without emotion.
[Reaching the coast, he was hospitably received at the port of
Suweik by the wife of the governor, who was absent.]
A huge meal, consisting of a great variety of dishes,
sufficient for thirty or forty people, was prepared in his
kitchen, and brought to us on large copper dishes, twice a
day during the time we remained. On these occasions
there was a great profusion of blue and gilt China-ware,
cut-glass dishes, and decanters containing sherbet instead
of wine. . . .
Tho Shekh after his return usually spent the evening
with us. On one occasion he was accompanied by a pro-
fessed story-teller, who appeared to be a great favorite
with him. " Whenever I feel melancholy or out of order,"
said he, " I send for this man, who very soon restores me
to my wonted spirits." From the falsetto tone in which
tho story was chanted, I could not follow the thread of
the tale, and, upon my mentioning this to him, the Shekh
very kindly sent me the manuscript, of which the reciter
had availed himself. With little variation I found it to bo
the identical Sinbad the Sailor, so familiar to the readers
of tho Arabian Nights. I little thought, when first I
perused these fascinating tales in my own language, that
it would ever be my lot to listen to the original in a spot
so congenial and so remote.
[Despite the assurances he received of the danger to be encountered
from the Wahabces, the most fanatical of Mohammedans, he resumed
his journey inland, and reached Obri, on the borders of their territory.
Here he found himself in peril.]
22 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Wellsted
Upon my producing the Imam's letters [to the Shekh]
he read them, and took his leave without returning any
answer. About an hour afterwards he sent a verbal mes-
sage to request that I should lose no time in quitting his
town, as he begged to inform me, what he supposed I could
not have been aware of," that it was then filled with nearly
two thousand Wahabees. This was, indeed, news to us ;
it was somewhat earlier than we anticipated falling in
with them, but we put a good face on the matter, and
behaved as coolly as we could.
[The next morning the Shekh returned, with a positive refusal to
allow them to proceed farther, promising a letter to the Sultan. The
Wahabees crowded around the party in great numbers, and seemed
only waiting for some pretext to commence an afl'ray.]
When the Shekh came and presented me with the letter
for the Sultan, I knew it would be in vain to make any
further effort to shake his resolution, and therefore did
not attempt it. In the mean time news had spread far
and wide that two Englishmen with a box of "dollars,"
but in reality containing only the few clothes that we car-
ried with us, had halted in the town. The Wahabees and
other tribes had met in deliberation, while the lower classes
of the townsfolk were creating noise and confusion. The
Shekh either had not the shadow of any influence, or was
afraid to exercise it, and his followers evidently wished to
share in the plunder. It was time to act.
I called Ali on one side, told him to make neither noise
nor confusion, but to collect the camels without delay. In
the mean time we had packed up the tent, the crowd in-
creasing every minute; the camels were ready and we
mounted on them. A leader, or some trifling incident, was
now only wanting to furnish them with a pretext for an
onset. They followed us with hisses and various other
Wellsted] TRA VELS IN OMAN AND HADRAMAUT. 23
noises, until we got sufficiently clear to push briskly for-
ward; and, beyond a few stones being thrown, we reached
the outskirts of the town without further molestation. I
had often before heard of the inhospitable character of
the inhabitants of this place. The neighboring Arabs
observe that to enter Obri a man must either go armed to
the teeth, or as a beggar with a cloth, and that not of decent
quality, around his waist. Thus, for a second time, ended
my hopes of reaching Derrej^eh from this quarter.
[This repulse ended the traveller's effort to penetrate to the capital
of the Wababees. It was evidently far too dangerous an attempt,
during their then warlike operations. We shall conclude our extracts
from his writings with a description of a journey in the province of
Hadramaut, whose coast he was exploring at a point about one hun-
dred miles east of Aden. He learned that extensive ruins lay at some
distance inland, and, penetrating thither, discovered the remains of an
ancient city. The route of the travellers lay through a valley, skirted
by lofty mountains, where the heat was intense.]
Within these burning hollows the sun's rays are concen-
trated and thrown off as from a mirror : the herbs around
were scorched to a cindery blackness ; not a cloud obscured
the firmament, and the breeze which moaned past us was
of a glowing heat, like that escaping from the mouth of a
furnace. Our guides dug hollows in the sand, and thrust
their blistered feet within them. Although we were not
long in availing ourselves of the practical lesson they had
taught us, I began to be far from pleased with their churl-
ish demeanor.
[During the day they travelled over sandy and stony ridges, and
late in the afternoon entered the Wady Meifah, where they found
scanty vegetation and wells of good water.]
The country now began to assume a far different aspect.
Numerous hamlets, interspersed amid extensive date-
24 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Wellsted
groves, verdant fields of grain, and herds of sleek cattle,
showed themselves in every direction, and we now fell in
with parties of inhabitants for the first time since leaving
the sea-shore. Astonishment was depicted on their coun-
tenances, but as we did not halt, they had no opportunity
of gratifying their curiosity by gazing at us for any length
of time.
[After a night's rest in a khan for travellers, they were hardly pre-
pared for the scene which daylight disclosed to them.]
The dark verdure of fields of millet, sorghum, tobacco,
etc., extended as far as the eye could reach. Mingled
with these we had the soft acacia and the stately but
more sombre foliage of the date-palm; while the creak-
ing of numerous wheels with which the grounds were
irrigated, and in the distance several rude ploughs drawn
by oxen, the ruddy and lively appearance of the people,
who now flocked towards us from all quarters, and the
delightful and refreshing coolness of the morning air,
combined to form a scene which he who gazes on the
barren aspect of the coast could never anticipate.
[Three hours' travel through this hright and populous region Drought
them in sight of the ruins, which the inhabitants call Nakab el-Hadjar,
meaning " The Excavation from the Rock."]
The hill upon which these ruins are situated stands out
in the centre of the valley, and divides a stream which
passes, during floods, on either side of it. It is nearly
eight hundred yards in length, and about three hundred
and fifty yards at its extreme breadth. About a third of
the height from its base a massive wall, averaging from
thirty to forty feet in height, is carried completely around
the eminence, and flanked by square towers, erected at
equal distances. There are but two entrances, north and
Wellsted] TRAVELS IN OMAN AND HADRAMAUT. 25
south ; a hollow, square tower, measuring fourteen feet,
stands on both sides of these. Their bases extend to the
plain below, and are carried out considerably beyond the
rest of the building. Between the towers, a an elevation
of twenty feet from the plain, there is an oblong platform
which projects about eighteen feet without and within tho
walls. A flight of steps was apparently once attached to
either extremity of the building.
Within the entrance, at an elevation of ten feet from
the platform, we found inscriptions. They are executed
with extreme care, in two horizontal lines on the smooth
face of tho stones, the letters being about eight inches
long. Attempts have been made, though without success,
to obliterate them. From the conspicuous situation which
they occupy, there can be but little doubt but that, when
deciphered, they will be found to contain the name of the
founder of the building, as well as the date and purport of
its erection. The whole of the walls and towers, and some
of the edifices within, are built of the same material, — a
compact grayish-colored marble, hewn to the required
shape with the utmost nicety. The dimensions of the
slabs at the base were from five to seven feet in length,
two to three in height, and three to four in breadth.
Let us now visit the interior, where the most conspicuous
object is an oblong square building, the walls of which face
the cardinal points : its dimensions are twenty-seven by
seventeen yards. The walls are fronted with a kind of
freestone, each slab being cut of the same size, and the
whole so beautifully put together that I endeavored in
vain to insert tho blade of a small penknife between
them. Tho outer, unpolished surface is covered with
small chisel-marks, which the Bedouins have mistaken
for writing From the extreme care displayed in tho
construction of this building, I have no doubt that it is
b a
26 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Wellsted
a temple, and my disappointment at finding the interior
filled up with the ruins of the fallen roof was veiy great.
Had it remained entire, we might have obtained some
clue to guide us in our researches respecting the form
of religion professed by the earlier Arabs. Above and
beyond this building there are several other edifices, with
nothing peculiar in their form or appearance.
In no portion of the ruins did we succeed in tracing any
remains of arches or columns, nor could we discover on
their surface any of those fragments of pottery, colored
glass, or metals which are always found in old Egyptian
towns, and which I also saw in those we discovered on the
northwest coast of Arabia. Except the attempts to deface
the inscriptions, there is no other appearance of the build-
ings having suffered from any ravages besides those of
time ; and owing to the dryness of the climate, as well as
the hardness of the material, every stone, even to the
marking of the chisel, remains as perfect as the day it was
hewn. We were anxious to ascertain if the Arabs had
preserved any tradition concerning the building, but they
refer them, like other Arabs, to their pagan ancestors.
" Do you believe," said one of the Bedouins to me, upon
my telling him that his ancestors were then capable of
greater works than themselves, "that these stones were
raised by the unassisted hands of the Kafirs ? No ! no 1
They had devils, legions of devils (God preserve us from
them !), to aid them."
Palqravk] CROSSING THE ARABIAN DESERTS. 27
CROSSING THE ARABIAN DESERTS.
WILLIAM G. PALGRAVE.
[Of all travellers in Arabia, there are none that bear comparison
with William Gifford Palgrave in regard to the extent of territory-
traversed and the exploration of tho vast interior of that great penin-
sula. We first came to know Arabia as it is in his picturesque pages.
Born at Westminster, England, in 1826, he traversed Arabia in 1862-
63 in the service of Napoleon III. and of the Jesuits, of which society
ho had become a priest. He afterwards served as British consul in
many parts of the world, and wrote a number of works, of which the
one with which we are here concerned is " Narrative of a Year's Jour-
ney through Central and Eastern Arabia." We select here from his
graphic pictures of desert life in Arabia.]
The general typo of Arabia is that of a central table-
land, surrounded by a desert ring, sandy to the south, west,
and east, and stony to the north. This outlying circle is
in its turn girt by a line of mountains, low and sterile for
the most, but attaining in Yemen and Oman considerable
height, breadth, and fertility, while beyond these a narrow
rim of coast is bordered by the sea. The surface of the
midmost table-land equals somewhat less than one-half of
the entire peninsula, and its special demarcations are much
affected, nay, often absolutely fixed, by the windings and
in-runnings of the Nefood.* If to these central highlands,
or Nedjed, taking that word in its wider sense, we add the
Djowf, the Ta'yif, Djebel 'Aasecr, Yemen, Oman, and Hasa,
in short, whatever spots of fertility belong to the outer
circles, wo shall find that Arabia contains about two-thirds
* The sand-passes between tho cultivated districts, or, to use an
Arabian term, tho u Daughters of the Great Desert."
28 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgravb
of cultivated, or at least of cultivable land, with a remain-
ing third of irreclaimable desert, chiefly to the south.
[The great northern desert is thus strikingly delineated]
Dreary land of death, in which even the face of an
enemy were almost a relief amid such utter solitude. But
for five whole days the little dried-up lizard of the plain,
that looks as if he had never a drop of moisture in his
ugly body, and the jerboa, or field-rat of Arabia, were the
only living creatures to console our view.
It was a march during which we might have almost
repented of our enterprise had such a sentiment been any
longer possible or availing. Day after day found us urging
our camels to their utmost pace, for fifteen or sixteen hours
together out of the twenty-four, under a well-nigh vertical
sun, which the Ethiopians of Herodotus might reasonably
be excused for cursing, with nothing either in the landscape
around or in the companions of our way to relieve for a
moment the eye or the mind. Then an insufficient halt
for rest or sleep, at most of two or three hours, soon inter-
rupted by the oft-repeated admonition, " if we linger here
we all die of thirst," sounding in our ears ; and then to
remount our jaded beasts and push them on through the
dark night, amid the constant probability of attack and
plunder from roving marauders.
For myself, I was, to mend matters, under the depressing
influence of a tertian fever contracted at Ma'an, and what
between weariness and low spirits, began to imagine seri-
ously that no waters remained before us except the waters
of death for us and of oblivion for our friends. The days
wore b}^ like a delirious dream, till we were often almost
unconscious of the ground we travelled over and of the
journey on which we were engaged. One only herb ap-
peared at our feet to give some appearance of variety and
Palgrave] CROSSING THE ARABIAN DESERTS. 29
life ; it was the bitter and poisonous colocynth of tho
desert.
Our order of road was this. Long before dawn we were
on our way, and paced it till the suu, having attained about
half-way between the horizon and the zenith, assigned tho
moment of alighting for our morning meal. This our
Bedouins always took good care should be in some hollow
or low ground, for concealment's sake ; in every other re-
spect we had ample liberty of choice, for one patch of
black pebbles with a little sand and withered grass be-
tween was just like another ; shade or shelter, or anything
like them, was wholly out of the question in such " naked-
ness of the land." We then alighted, and my companion
and myself would pile up the baggage into a sort of wall,
to afford a half-screen from the scorching sun-rays, and
here recline awhile.
Next came the culinary preparations, in perfect accord-
ance with our provisions, which were simple enough, —
namely, a bag of coarse flour mixed with salt, and a few
dried dates ; there was no third item on the bill of fare.
We now took a few handfuls of flour, and one of tho
Bedouins kneaded it with his unwashed hands or dirty bit
of leather, pouring over it a little of the dingy water con-
tained in the skins, and then patted out this exquisite paste
into a large round cake, about an inch thick, and five or
six inches across.
Meanwhile, another had lighted a fire of dry grass, colo-
cynth roots, and dried camel's dung, till he had prepared a
bed of glowing embers ; among these the cake was now
cast, and immediately covered up with hot ashes, and so
left for a few minutes, then taken out, turned, and covered
again, till at last half-kneaded, half-raw, half-roasted, and
burnt all round, it was taken out to be broken up between
the hungry band, and eaten scalding hot, before it should
3*
30 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
cool into an indescribable leathery substance, capable of
defying the keenest appetite. A draught of dingy water
was its sole but suitable accompaniment.
The meal ended, we had again without loss of time to
resume our way from mirage to mirage, till " slowly naming
over all, from heat to heat, the day decreased," and about
an hour before sunset we would stagger off our camels as
best we might, to prepare an evening feast of precisely the
same description as that of the forenoon, or more often, for
fear lest the smoke of our fire should give notice to somo
distant rover, to content ourselves with dry dates, and
half an hour's rest on the sand.
At last our dates, like Esop's bread-sack, or that of
Beyhas, his Arab prototype, came to an end ; and then our
supper was a soldier's one; what that is my military
friends will know; but grit and pebbles excepted, there
was no bed in our case. After which, to remount, and
travel on by moon or starlight, till a little before midnight
we would lie down for just enough sleep to tantalize, not
refresh. . . .
It was now the 22d of June, and the fifth day since our
departure from the wells of Wokba. The water in the
skins had little more to offer to our thirst than muddy
dregs, and as yet no sign appeared of a fresh supply. At
last about noon we drew near some hillocks of loose gravel
and sandstone a little on our right ; our Bedouins con-
versed together awhile, and then turned their course and
ours in that direction. "Hold fast on your camels, for
they are going to be startled and jump about," said Salim
to us. Why the camels should be startled I could not
understand ; when on crossing the mounds just mentioned,
we suddenly came on five or six black tents, of the very
poorest description, pitched near some wells excavated in
the gravelly hollow below. The reason of Salim's pre-
Palgrave] CROSSING THE ARABIAN DESERTS. 31
cautionary hint now became evident, for our silly beasts
started at first sight of the tents, as though they had never
seen the like before, and then scampered about, bounding
friskily here and there, till what between their jolting (for
a camel's run much resembles that of a cow) and our own
laughing, we could hardly keep on their backs. However,
thirst soon prevailed over timidity, and they left off their
pranks to approach the well's edge, and sniff at the water
below.
[A day or two afterwards a perilous incident of desert experience
occurred.]
My readers, no less than myself, must have heard or
read many a story of the simoom, or deadly wind of tho
desert, but for me I had never yet met it in full force ; and
its modified form, or shelook, to use the Arab phrase, that
is, the sirocco of the Syrian waste, though disagreeable
enough, can hardly ever be termed dangerous. Hence I
had been almost inclined to set down the tales told of tho
strange phenomena and fatal effects of this "poisoned
gale," in the same category with the moving pillars of
sand, recorded in many works of higher historical preten-
sions than "Thalaba." At those perambulatory columns
and sand-smothered caravans the Bedouins, whenever I
interrogated them on the subject, laughed outright, and
declared that beyond an occasional dust-storm, similar to
those which any one who has passed a summer in Scindo
can hardly fail to have experienced, nothing of the ro-
mantic kind just alluded to occurred in Arabia. But when
questioned about the simoom, they always treated it as a
much more serious matter, and such in real earnest wo
now find it.
It was about noon, the noon of a summer solstice in the
unclouded Arabian sky over a scorched desert, when abrupt
32 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
and burning gusts of wind began to blow by fits from the
south, while the oppressiveness of the air increased every
moment, till my companion and myself mutually asked
each other what this could mean, and what was to be its
result. We turned to inquire of Salim, but he had already
wrapped up his face in his mantle, and, bowed down and
crouching on the neck of his camel, replied not a word.
His comrades, the two Sherarat Bedouins, had adopted a
similar position, and were equally silent. At last, after
repeated interrogations, Salim, instead of replying directly
to our questioning, pointed to a small black tent, providen-
tially at no great distance in front, and said, " Try to reach
that, if we can get there we are saved." He added, " Take
care that your camels do not stop and lie down ;" and then,
giving his own several vigorous blows, relapsed into muffled
silence.
We looked anxiously towards the tent; it was yet a
hundred yards off, or more. Meanwhile, the gusts grew
hotter and more violent, and it was only by repeated
efforts that we could urge our beasts forward. The hori-
zon rapidly darkened to a deep violet hue, and seemed to
draw in like a curtain on every side, while at the same
time a stifling blast, as though from some enormous oven
opening right on our path, blew steadily under the gloom ;
our camels too, began, in spite of all we could do, to turn
round and round and bend their knees, preparing to lie
down. The simoom was fairly upon us.
Of course we had followed our Arabs' example by
muffling our faces, and now with blows and kicks we
forced the staggering animals onward to the only asylum
within reach. So dark was the atmosphere, and so burn-
ing the heat, that it seemed that hell had risen from the
earth, or descended from above. But we were yet in
time, and at the moment when the worst of the concen-
Palgu.vve] CROSSING THE ARABIAN DESERTS. 33
trated poison-blast was coming around, we were already
prostrate, one and all, within the tent, with our heads well
wrapped up, almost suffocated, indeed, but safe ; while our
camels lay without like dead, their long necks stretched
out on the sand, awaiting the passing of the gale.
On our first arrival the tent contained a solitary Bedouin
woman, whose husband was away with his camels in the
Wady Sirhan. When she saw five handsome men like us
rush thus suddenly into her dwelling without a word of
leave or salutation, she very properly set up a scream to
the tune of the four crown pleas, murder, arson, robbery,
and I know not what else. Salim hastened to reassure
her by calling out, " Friends," and without more words
threw himself flat on the ground. All followed his ex-
ample in silence.
We remained thus for about ten minutes, during which
a still heat like that of rod-hot iron slowly passing over
us was alone to be felt. Then the tent walls began again
to flap in the returning gusts, and announced that the
worst of the simoom had gone by. We got up, half dead
with exhaustion, and unmufiied our faces. My comrades
appeared more like corpses than living men, and so, I sup-
pose, did I. However, I could not forbear, in spite of
warnings, to step out and look at the camels ; they were
still lying flat as though they had been shot. The air was
yet darkish, but before long it brightened up to its usual
dazzling clearness. During the whole time that the si-
moom lasted the atmosphere was entirely free from sand
or dust, so that I hardly know how to account for its
singular obscurity.
[After reaching the cultivated district of the Djowf, where they
were hospitably received and dwelt for some time in comfort, the
travellers set out again, to cross the dreadful sand-passes of the Nefood.]
in. — e
34 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palcrave
Much had we heard of them from Bedouins and country-
men, so that we had made up our minds to something very-
terrible and very impracticable. But the reality, espe-
cially in these dog-days, proved worse than ought heard
or imagined.
We were now traversing an immense ocean of loose red-
dish sand, unlimited to the eye, and heaped up in enormous
ridges, running parallel to each other from north to south,
undulation after undulation, each swell two or three hundred
feet in average height, with slant sides and rounded crests
furrowed in every direction by the capricious gales of the
desert. In the depths between the traveller finds himself
as it were imprisoned in a suffocating sand-pit, hemmed in
by burning walls on every side ; while at other times, while
laboring up the slope, he overlooks what seems a vast sea
of fire, swelling under a heavy monsoon wind, and ruffled
by a cross blast into little red-hot waves. Neither shelter
nor rest for eye or limb amid torrents of light and heat
poured from above on an answering glare reflected below.
Add to this the weariness of long summer days of toil-
ing — I might better say wading — through the loose and
scorching soil, on drooping, half-stupefied beasts, with few
and interrupted hours of sleep at night, and no rest by
day because no shelter, little to eat and less to drink, while
the tepid and discolored water in the skins rapidly dimin-
ishes, even more by evaporation than by use, and a vertical
sun, such a sun, strikes blazing down till clothes, baggage,
and housings all take the smell of burning, and scarce per-
mit the touch. The boisterous gayety of the Bedouins was
soon expended, and scattered, one to front, another behind,
each pursued his way in silence only broken by the angry
snarl of the camels when struck, as they often were, to
improve their pace. . . .
The loose sand hai'dly admits of any vegetation ; even
Palgrave] CROSSING THE ARABIAN DESERTS. 35
the ghada, which, like many other Euphorbias, seems
hardly to require either earth or moisture for its suste-
nance, is here scant and miserably stunted ; none can afford
either shelter or pasture. Sometimes a sort of track
appears, more often none ; the moving surface has long
since lost the traces of those who last crossed it. . . .
Near sunset of the second day we came in sight of two
lonely pyramidal peaks of dark granite, rising amid the
sand-waves full in our way. " 'Aalames-Sa'ad," the people
call them, that is, " the signs of good luck," because they
indicate that about one-third of the distance from Be'er-
Shekeek to Djebel Shomer has been here passed. They
stand out like islands, or rather like the rocks that start
from the sea near the mouth of the Tagus, or like the Mai-
dive group in the midst of the deep Indian Ocean. Their
roots must be in the rocky base over which this upper
layer of sand is strewn like the sea-water over its bed ;
we shall afterwards meet with similar phenomena in
other desert spots. Here the understratum is evidently
of granite, sometimes it is calcareous. As to the average
depth of the sand, I should estimate it at about four hun-
di-ed feet, but it may not unfrequently be much more ; at
least I have met with hollows of full six hundred feet in
perpendicular descent. . . .
Soon we reached the summit of a gigantic sand ridge.
"Look there," said Djedey' to us, and pointed forward.
Far off on the extreme horizon a blue cloud-like peak ap-
peared, and another somewhat lower at its side. "Those
are the mountains of Djobbah, and the nearest limits of
Djebel Shomer," said our guide. Considering how loose
the water-skins now napped at the camel's side, my first
thought was, " How are we to reach them ?" All the band
seemed much of the same mind, for they pushed on harder
than beforo.
36 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palqravk
But the farther we advanced the worse did the desert
grow, more desolate, more hopeless in its barren waves;
and at noon our band broke up into a thorough sauve qui
pent; some had already exhausted their provisions, solid
or liquid, and others were scarcely better furnished ; every
one goaded on his beast to reach the land of rest and safety.
Djedey', my comrade, and myself kept naturally together.
On a sudden my attention was called to two or three spar-
rows, twittering under a shrub by the wayside. They were
the first birds we had met with in this desert, and indicated
our approach to cultivation and life. I bethought me of
tales heard in childhood, at a comfortable fireside, how
some far-wandering sailors, Columbus and his crew, if my
memory serves me right, after days and months of dreary
ocean, welcomed a bird that, borne from a yet undiscovered
coast, first settled on their mast. My comrade fell a-crying
for very joy.
However, we had yet a long course before us, and we
ploughed on all that evening with scarce an hour's halt
for a most scanty supper, and then all night up and down
the undulating labyrinth, like men in an enchanter's circle,
fated always to journey and never to advance.
The morning broke on us still toiling amid the sands.
By daylight we saw our straggling companions like black
specks here and there, one far ahead on a yet vigorous
dromedary, another in the rear dismounted, and urging
his fallen beast to rise by plunging a knife a good inch
deep into its haunches, a third lagging in the extreme
distance. Every one for himself and God for us all! —
so we quickened our pace, looking anxiously before us for
the hills of Djobbah, which could not now be distant.
At noon we came in sight of them all at once, close on
our right, wild and fantastic cliffs, rising sheer on the
margin of the sand sea. We coasted them awhile, till at
Nieduhr] THE MOCHA COFFEE DISTRICT. 37
a turn the whole plain of Djobbah and its landscapo
opened on our view. . . .
My camel was now at the end — not of his wits, for ho
never had any, but of his legs — and hardly capable of ad-
vance, while I was m} r self too tired to urge him vigorously,
and we took a fair hour to cross a narrow white strip of
mingled salt and sand that yet intervened between us and
the village.
Without its garden walls was pitched the very identical
tent of our noble guide, and here his wife and family were
anxiously awaiting their lord. Djodey' invited us — indeed
he could not conformably with Shomer customs do less —
to partake of his board and lodging, and we had no better
course than to accept of both. So we let our camels fling
themselves out like dead or dying alongside of the taber-
nacle, and entered to drink water mixed with sour milk.
THE MOCHA COFFEE DISTRICT.
CARSTENS NIEBUHR.
[As one of the earliest of scientific travellers, an extract from the
works of Carstens Niebuhr may prove of interest. This distinguished
traveller was born at Liidinworth, Hanover, in 1733, entered tho
Danish service in 1760, and was appointed in 1761 to accompany a sci-
entific expedition to Arabia. All his companions died within a year,
but he remained six years in the county, and after his return pub-
lished "Description of Arabia" and "Travels in Arabia and the Sur-
rounding Countries." He died in 1815. "We select from his writings
several statements about the customs and productions of the Arabs.]
W'e had one opportunity of learning their ideas of tho
benefits to bo derived from medicine. Mr. Cramer had
given a scribe an emetic which operated with extreme
4
439389
38 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Niebuhk
violence. The Arabs, being struck at its wonderful effects,
resolved all to take the same excellent remedy, and the
reputation of our friend's skill thus became very high
among them. The Emir of the port sent one day for him ;
and, as he did not go immediately, the Emir soon after
sent a saddled horse to our gate. Mr. Cramer, supposing
that this horse was intended to boar him to the Emir, was '*
going to mount him, when he was told that this was the
patient he was to cure. We luckily found another physi-
cian in our party ; our Swedish servant had been with the
hussars in his native country, and had acquired some
knowledge of the diseases of horses. He offered to cure
the Emir's horse, and succeeded. The cure rendered him
famous, and he was afterwards sent for to human patients.
[Their journey lay through the interior of Yemen, where they
were well received.]
I hired an ass, and its owner agreed to follow me as
my servant on foot. A turban, a great-coat wanting the
sleeves, a shirt, linen drawers, and a pair of slippers were
all the dress that I wore. It being the fashion of the
country to carry arms in travelling, I had a sabre and two
pistols hung by my girdle. A piece of old carpet was my
saddle, and served me likewise for a seat, a table, and vari-
ous other purposes. To cover me at night, I had the linen
cloak which the Arabs wrap about their shoulders to
shelter them from the sun and rain. A bucket of water,
an article of indispensable necessity to a traveller in these
arid regions, hung by my saddle.
[His course led him to the plantations of the famous Mocha coffee.
He thus describes the region.]
Neither asses nor mules can be used here. The hills are
to be climbed by steep and narrow paths ; yot in compari-
Niebuhr] THE MOCHA COFFEE DISTRICT. 39
son with the parched plains of the Tehama, tho scenery
seemed to me charming, as it was covered with gardens
and plantations of coffee-trees.
Up to this timo I had seen only one small basaltic hill;
but hero whole mountains were composed chiefly of thoso
columns. Such detached rocks formed grand objects in tho
landscape, especially where cascades of water were seen to
rush from their summits. Tho cascades, in such instances,
had tho appearance of being supported by rows of artificial
pillars. These basalts are of great utility to the inhabi-
tants; the columns, which are easily separated, serve as
steps where the ascent is most difficult, and as materials
for walls to support the plantations of coffee-trees, upon
the steep declivities of the mountains.
The tree which affords the coffee is well known in
Europe ; so that I need not hero describo it particularly.
The coffee-trees were all in flower at Bulgosa, and exhaled
an exquisitely agreeable perfume. They are planted upon
terraces, in the form of an amphitheatre. Most of them
are only watered by the rains that fall, but some, indeed,
from large reservoirs upon the heights, in which spring-
water is collected in order to bo sprinkled upon the ter-
races, where the trees grow so thick together that the rays
of the sun can hardly enter among their branches. We
were told that those trees, thus artificially watered, yielded
ripe fruit twice in the year; but the fruit becomes not fully
ripe the second time, and the coffee of this crop is always
inferior to that of the first.
Stones being more common in this part of the country
than in the Tehama, tho houses — as well of tho villages as
those which are scattered solitarily over the hills — are
built of this material. Although not to be compared to
the houses of Europe for commodiousncss and elegance,
yet they have a good appearance ; especially such of them
40 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Niebuhb
as stand upon the heights, with amphitheatres of beautiful
gardens and trees around them.
Even at this village of Bulgosa we were greatly above
the level of the plain from which we had ascended ; yet
we had scarcely climbed half the ascent to Kusma, where
the Emir of this district dwells, upon the loftiest peak of
the range of mountains. Enchanting landscapes there
meet the eye on all sides.
We passed the night at Bulgosa. Several of the men
of the village came to see us, and after they retired we
had a visit from our hostess, with some young women ac-
companying her, who were all very desirous to see the
Europeans. They seemed less shy than the women in
the cities ; their faces were unveiled, and they talked freely
with us. As the air is fresher and cooler upon these hills,
the women have a finer and fairer complexion than in the
plain. Our artist drew a portrait of a young girl who was
going to draw water, and was dressed in a shirt of linen,
chequered blue and white. The top and middle of the
shirt, as well as the lower part of the drawers, were em-
broidered with needle-work of different colors.
[He tells the following story about the miraculous powers of Ismael
Melek, a former king of Taas, and now its patron saint.]
Two beggars had asked charity of the Emir of Taas,
but only one of them had tasted of his bounty. Upon this
the other went to the tomb of Ismael Melek to implore his
aid. The saint, who, when alive, had been very charitable,
stretched his hand out of the tomb and gave the beggar a
letter containing an order on the Emir to pay him a hun-
dred crowns. Upon examining this order with the greatest
care, it was found that Ismael Melek had written it with
his own hand and sealed it with his own seal. The gov-
ernor could not refuse payment ; but to avoid all subsequent
Niebuhr] THE MOCHA COFFEE DISTRICT. 4t
trouble from such bills of exchange, he had a wall built,
enclosing the tomb.
[We shall conclude these extracts with Niehuhr's account of his
reception at the important city of Sana, which he reached after many
difficulties, and gained admission to the palace of the Imam.]
The hall of audience was a spacious square chamber,
having an arched roof. In the middle was a large basin
with somo jets d'eau, rising fourteen feet in height. Behind
the basin, and near the throne, were two large benches,
each a foot and a half high ; upon the throne was a space
covered with silken stuff, on which, as well as on both sides
of it, lay large cushions. The Imam sat between the cush-
ions, with his legs crossed in the Eastern fashion ; his gown
was of a bright-green color, and had large sleeves. Upon
each side of his breast was a rich filleting of sold lace, and
on his head he wore a great white turban. His sons sat
on his right hand and his brothers on the left. Opposite
to them, on the highest of the two benches, sat the Vizier,
and our place was on the lower bench.
We were first led up to the Imam, and were permitted
to kiss both the back and the palm of his hand, as well
as the hem of his robe. It is an extraordinary favor when
the Mohammedan princes permit any person to kiss the
palm of the hand. There was a solemn silence through
the whole hall. As each of us touched the Imam's hand
a herald still proclaimed, " God preserve the Imam !" and
all who were present repeated these words after him. I
was thinking at the time how I should pay my compliments
in Arabic, and was not a little disturbed by this noisy
ceremony.
We did not think it proper to mention the true reason
of our expedition through Arabia ; but told the Imam that,
wishing to travel by the shortest ways to the Danish colo-
4*
42 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Niebuhr
nies, in the East Indies, we had heard so much of the
plenty and security which prevailed through his domin-
ions, that we had resolved to see them with our own eyes,
so that we might describe them to our countrymen. The
Imam told us we were welcome to his dominions, and
might stay as long as we pleased. After our return home
he sent to each of us a small purse containing ninety-nine
komassis, two and thirty of which make a crown. This
piece of civility might, perhaps, appear no compliment to
a traveller's delicacy. But, when it is considered that a
stranger, unacquainted with the value of the money of
the country, obliged to pay every day for his provisions, is
in danger of being imposed upon by the money-changers,
this care of providing us with small money will appear to
have been sufficiently obliging. . . .
The city of Sana is situated at the foot of Mount Nik-
kum, on which are still to be seen the ruins of a castle,
which the Arabs suppose to have been built by Shem.
Near this mountain stands the citadel ; a rivulet rises upon
the other side, and near it is the Bostan el-Metwokkel, a
spacious garden, which was laid out by the Imam of that
name, and has been greatly embellished by the reigning
Imam. The walls of the city, which are built of bricks,
exclude this garden, which is enclosed within a wall of its
own. The city, properly so called, is not very extensive ;
one may walk around it in an hour. There are a number
of mosques, some of which have been built by Turkish
Pashas. In Sana are only twelve public baths, but many
noble palaces, three of the most splendid of which have
been built by the reigning Imam. The materials of these
palaces are burnt bi'icks, and sometimes even hewn stones ;
but the houses of the common people are of bricks which
have been dried in the sun.
The suburb of Bir el-Arsab is nearly adjoining the city
Niebuhk] THE MOCHA COFFEE DISTRICT. 43
on the east side. The houses of this village are scattered
through the gardens, along the banks of a small river.
Fruits are very plenteous; there are more than twenty
different kinds of grapes, which, as they do not all ripen
at the same time, continue to afford a delicious refresh-
ment for several months. The Arabs likewise preserve
grapes by hanging them up in their cellars, and eat them
almost through the whole year. Two leagues northward
from Sana is a plain named Rodda, which is overspread
with gardens, and watered by a number of rivulets. This
place bears a great resemblance to the neighborhood of
Damascus. But Sana, which some ancient authors compare
to Damascus, stands on a rising ground, with nothing like
florid vegetation about it. After long rains, indeed, a
small rivulet runs through the c\iy ; but all the ground is
dry through the rest of the year. However, by aqueducts
from Mount Nikkum, the town and castle of Sana are, at
all times, supplied with abundance of excellent fresh water.
[After a week's stay, the travellers set out on their return, the Imam
sending each of them on their departure a complete suit of clothes.
He also sent a letter to the Emir of Mocha, bidding him to pay them
two hundred crowns as a farewell present. They reached Mocha, and
sailed thence for Bombay. The last of Niebuhr's companions died in
India, after which he returned by way of Persia, Armenia, and Asia
Minor, finally reaching Denmark in 1767. His journey may be said
to have inaugurated the era of intelligent scientific exploration.]
44 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palqravk
IN THE CAPITAL OF NEDJED.
WILLIAM G. PALGRAVE.
[We have told, from Palgrave's writings, the story of the desert in
its unmitigated severity. To this lifeless world of sand are sharply
contrasted the extensive cultivated regions of Arabia, which for ages
have lain in the heart of this desert realm almost unknown to the
world, and were first made known to modern Europeans by the fear-
less traveller above named. Favored by an Oriental cast of features,
a thorough knowledge of the Arabic language and literature, and a
familiarity with the habits of the people gained by years of residence
in the East, Palgrave safely traversed realms where a knowledge of
his Christian belief would have brought him certain death. After a
period of residence in various oases, he entered the great district of
Nedjed, and journeyed to its capital city, Ki'ad, the stronghold of the
fanatical Mohammedan sect of Wahabees. The approach to this city
is thus picturesquely described.]
For about an hour we proceeded southward, through
barren and undulating ground, unable to see over the
country to any distance. At last we attained a rising
eminence, and crossing it, came at once in full view of
Ei'ad, the main object of our long journey, — the capital
of Nedjed and half Arabia, its very heart of hearts.
Before us stretched a wild open valley, and in its fore-
ground, immediately below the pebbly slope on whose sum-
mit we stood, lay the capital, large and square, crowned by
high towers and strong walls of defence, a mass of roofs
and terraces, where overtopping all frowned the huge but
irregular pile of Feysul's royal castle, and hard by it rose
the scarce less conspicuous palace, built and inhabited by
his eldest son, 'Abdallah. Other edifices, too, of remarka-
ble appearance broke here and there through the maze of
AN ARAB SHEIKH.
Palgrave] IN THE CAPITAL OF NEDJED. 45
gray roof-tops, but their object and in-dwellers were yet to
learn.
All around for full three miles over the surrounding
plain, but more especially to the west and south, waved
a sea of palm-trees above green fields and well-watered
gardens ; while the singing, droning sound of the water-
wheels reached us even where we had halted, at a quarter
of a mile or more from the nearest town walls. On the
opposite side southward, the valley opened out into the
great and even more fertile plains of Yemamah, thickly
dotted with groves and villages, among which the large
town of Manfbohah, hardly inferior in size to Ri'ad itself,
might be clearly distinguished.
Farther in the background ranged the blue hills, the
ragged Sierra of Yemamah, compared some thirteen hun-
dred years since, by 'Amroo-ebn-Kelthoom, the Shomerite,
to drawn swords in battle array; and behind them was
concealed the immeasurable Desert of the South, or Dahna.
On the west the valley closes in and narrows in its up-
ward windings towards Derey'eeyah, while to the south-
west the low mounds of Aflaj are the division between it
and Wady Dowasir. Due east in the distance a long blue
line marks the farthest heights of Toweyk, and shuts out
from view the low ground of Ilasa and the shores of the
Persian Gulf.
In all the countries which I have visited, and they are
many, seldom has it been mine to survey a landscape equal
to this in beauty and in historical meaning, rich and full
alike to eye and mind. But should any of my readers
have ever approached Damascus from the side of the Anti-
Lebanon, and surveyed the Ghootah from the heights above
Mazzeh, they may thence form an approximate idea of tho
valley of Ri'ad when viewed from the north. Only this is
wider and more varied, and tho circle of vision here em-
46 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
braces vaster plains and bolder mountains ; while the mix-
ture of tropical aridity and luxuriant verdure, of crowded
population and desert tracks, is one that Arabia alone can
present, and in comparison with which Syria seems tame,
and Italy monotonous.
[Palgrave was permitted to reside in Ki'ad under the assumed char-
acter of a physician, many patients of note coming to him. He made
the most of his opportunities for observation. The following is what
he has to tell of the famous Mocha coffee.]
Be it known, by way of prelude, that coffee though one
in name is manifold in fact; nor is every kind of berry
entitled to the high qualifications too indiscriminately be-
stowed on the comprehensive genus. The best coffee, let
cavillers say what they will, is that of the Yemen, com-
monly entitled " Mokha," from the main place of exporta-
tion. Now, I should be sorry to incur a lawsuit for libel or
defamation from our wholesale or retail salesmen ; but were
the particle not prefixed to the countless labels in London
shop-windows that bear the name of the Red Sea haven,
they would have a more truthful import than what at
present they convey.
Yery little, so little indeed as to be quite inappreciable,
of the Mocha or Yemen berry ever finds its way west-
ward of Constantinople. Arabia itself, Syria, and Egypt
consume fully two-thirds, and the remainder is almost ex-
clusively absorbed by Turkish and Armenian oesophagi.
Nor do these last ffet for their limited share the best or the
purest. Before reaching the harbors of Alexandria, Jaffa,
Beyrout, etc., for further exportation, the Mokhan bales
have been, while yet on their way, sifted and resifted,
grain by grain, and whatever they may have contained of
the hard, rounded, half-transparent, greenish-brown berry,
the only one really worth roasting and pounding, has been
Palgrave] IN THE CAPITAL OF NEDJED. 47
carefully picked out by experienced fingers ; and it is the
less generous residue of flattened, opaque, and whitish
grains which alone, or almost alone, goes on board the
shipping.
So constant is this selecting process, that a gradation
regular as the degrees on a map may be observed in the
quality of Mokha, that is, Yemen, coffee even within the
limits of Arabia itself, in proportion as one approaches
to or recedes from Wadi Nejran and the neighborhood
of Mecca, the first stages of the radiating mart. I have
myself been times out of number an eye-witness of this
sifting ; the operation is performed with the utmost seri-
ousness and scrupulous exactness, reminding me of the
diligence ascribed to American diamond-searchers, when
scrutinizing the torrent sands for their minute but precious
treasure.
The berry, thus qualified for foreign use, quits its native
land on three main lines of export, — that of the Eed Sea,
that of the inuer Hedjaz, and that of Kaseem. The ter-
minus of the first lino is Egypt, of the second Syria, of the
third Xedjed and Shomcr. Hence Egypt and Syria are, of
all countries without the frontiers of Arabia, the best sup-
plied with its specific produce, though under the restric-
tions already stated ; and through Alexandria or the Syrian
seaports, Constantinople and the North obtain their dimin-
iehed share. But tbis last stage of transport seldom con-
veys the genuine article, except by the intervention of
private arrangements and personal friendship or interest.
Where more sale and traffic are concerned, substitution
of an inferior quality, or an adulteration almost equiva-
lent to substitution, frequently takes placo in the different
storehouses of tho coast, till whatever Mokha-marked cof-
fee leaves them for Europe and tho West is often ho more
like tho real offspring of tho Yemen plant than tho log-
48 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palqrave
wood preparations of a London fourth-rate retail wine-seller
resemble the pure libations of an Oporto vineyard.
The second species of coffee, by some preferred to that of
Yemen, but in my poor opinion inferior to it, is the growth
of Abyssinia ; its berry is larger, and of a somewhat differ-
ent and a less heating flavor. It is, however, an excellent
species ; and whenever the rich land that bears it shall
be permitted by man to enjoy the benefits of her natural
fertility, it will probably become an object of extensive
cultivation and commerce. With this stops, at least in
European opinion and taste, the list of coffee, and begins
the list of beans.
While we were yet in the Djowf, I described with suffi-
cient minuteness how the berry is prepared for actual use ; *
nor is the process any way varied in Nedjed or other
Arab lands. But in Nedjed an additional spicing of saf-
fron, cloves, and the like, is still more common ; a fact
which is easily explained by the want of what stimulus
tobacco affords elsewhere. A second consequence of non-
smoking among the Arabs is the increased strength of
their coffee decoctions in Nedjed, and the prodigious fre-
quency of their use; to which we must add the larger
" finjans," or coffee-cups, here in fashion. So sure are men,
when debarred of one pleasure or excitement, to make it
up by another.
[Palgrave gives the following picturesque description of the Waha-
bee capital :]
We wrap our head-gear, like true Arabs, round our
chins, put on our grave-looking black cloaks, take each
a long stick in hand, and thread the narrow streets inter-
* This is done very much as elsewhere, by roasting, pounding, and
then boiling the coffee berry.
Palquave] IN THE CAPITAL OF NEDJED. 49
mediate between our house and the market-place at a
funeral pace, and speaking in an undertone. Those whom
we meet saluto us, or we salute them ; be it known that
the lesser number should always be the first to salute the
greater, he who rides him who walks, he who walks him
who stands, the stander the sitter, and so forth ; but never
should a man salute a woman : difference of age or even
of rank between men does not enter into the general rules
touching the priority of salutation. If those whom we
have accosted happen to be acquaintances or patients, or
should they belong to the latitudinarian school, our saluta-
tion is duly returned. But if, by ill fortune, they appertain
to the strict and high orthodox party, an under-look with a
half-scowl in silence is their only answer to our greeting.
Whereat we smile, Malvolio-like, and pass on.
At last we reach the market-place ; it is full of women
and peasants, selling exactly what we want to buy, besides
meat, fire-wood, milk, etc. ; around are customers, come on
errands like our own. We single out a tempting basket
of dates, and begin haggling with the unbeautiful Phyllis,
seated beside her rural store. We find the price too high.
" By Him who protects Feysul," answers she, " I am the
loser at that price." We insist. " By Him who shall grant
Feysul a long life, I cannot bate it," she replies. We have
nothing to oppose to such tremendous asseverations, and
accede or pass on, as the case may be.
Half of the shops, namely, those containing grocery,
household articles of use, shoemakers' stalls, and smithies,
are already open and busily thronged. For the capital of
a strongly centralized empire is always full of strangers,
come will they nill they on their several affairs. But
around the butchers' shops awaits the greatest human and
canine crowd : my readers, I doubt not, know that the
only licensed scavenger.-! throughout the East arc the dogs,
in — <: d 5
50 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
JSTedjcans arc great flesh-eaters, and no wonder, considering
the cheapness of meat (a fine fat sheep costs at most five
shillings, often less) and the keenness of mountaineer ap-
petites. I wish that the police regulations of the city
would enforce a little more cleanliness about these nu-
merous shambles ; every refuse is left to cumber the
ground at scarce two yards' distance. But dogs and
dry air much alleviate the nuisance, — a remark I made
before at Ha'yel and Bereydah ; it holds true for all
Central Arabia.
[The quarter of the city inhabited by the most orthodox Wahabees
is thus described.]
Mosques of primitive simplicity and ample space, — where
the great dogma, not however confined to Ei'ad, that " Ave
are exactly in the right, and every one else is in the
wrong," is daily inculcated to crowds of auditors, over-
joyed to find Paradise all theirs and none's but theirs, —
smaller oratories of Musallas, wells for ablution, and
Kaabah-directed niches adorn every corner, and fill up
every interval of house or orchard. The streets of this
quarter are open, and the air healthy, so that the invisible
blessing is seconded by sensible and visible privileges of
Providence. Think not, gentle reader, that I am indulging
in gratuitous or self-invented irony; I am only rendering
expression for expression, and almost word for word, the
talk of true Wahabees, when describing the model quarter
of their model city. This section of the town is spacious
and well peopled, and flourishes, the citadel of national and
religious intolerance, pious pride, and genuine Wahabeeism.
Bound the whole town run the walls, varying from
twenty to thirty feet in height ; they are strong, in good
repair, and defended by a deep trench and embankment.
Beyond them are the gardens, much similar to those of
Palqrave] IN THE CAPITAL OF NED J ED. 51
Kaseein, both in arrangement and produce, despite the dif-
ference of latitude, here compensated by a higher ground
level. But immediately to the south, in Yemamah, tho eye
remarks a change in the vegetation to a more tropical
aspect.
[Palgrave obtained permission to visit the royal stables, where the
finest specimens of the famous Nedjed breed of horses are kept. Of
these he gives the following interesting description.]
The stables are situated some way out of tho town, to
the northeast, a little to the left of the road which we had
followed at our first arrival, and not far from the gardens
of 'Abd-er-Eahman the Wahabee. They cover a large
square epace, about one hundred and fifty yards each way,
and are open in tho centre, with a long shed running
round the inner walls ; under this covering the horses,
about three hundred in number when I saw them, are
picketed during the night ; in the daytime they may
stretch their legs at pleasure within the central court-yard.
The greater number were accordingly loose ; a few, how-
ever, were tied up at their stalls ; some, but not many, had
horse-cloths over them. The heavy dews which fall in
Wady Haneefah do not permit their remaining with im-
punity in the open night air; I was told also that a north-
erly wind will occasionally injure the animals here, no less
than the land wind does now and then their brethren in
India. About half the royal stud was present before me,
the rest were out at grass ; Feysul's entire muster is
reckoned at six hundred, or rather more.
No Arab dreams of tying up a horse by the neck; a
tether replaces the halter, and one of the animal's hind
lege is encircled about the pastern by a light iron ring, fur-
nished with a padlock, and connected with an iron chain
of two feet or thereabouts in length, ending in a rope,
52 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgravb
which is fastened to the ground at some distance by an
iron peg ; such is the customary method. But should the
animal be restless and troublesome, a foreleg is put under
similar restraint. It is well known that in Arabia horses
are much less frequently vicious or refractory than in
Europe, and this is the reason why geldings are here so
rare, though not unknown. No particular prejudice, that
I could discover, exists against the operation itself; only it
is seldom performed, because not otherwise necessary, and
tending, of course, to diminish tbe value of the animal.
But to return to the horses now before us : never had I
seen or imagined so lovely a collection. Their stature was
indeed somewhat low ; I do not think that any came fully
up to fifteen hands ; fourteen appeared to me about their
average, but they were so exquisitely well shaped that
want of greater size seemed hardly, if at all, a defect.
Remarkably full in the haunches, with a shoulder of a
slope so elegant as to make one, in the words of an Arab
poet, "go raving mad about it;" a little, a very little,
saddle-backed, just the curve which indicates springiness
without any weakness; ahead broad above and tapering
down to a nose fine enough to verify the phrase of " drink-
ing from a pint-pot," did pint-pots exist in Nedjed ; a most
intelligent and yet a singularly gentle look, full eye, sharp
thorn-like little ear, legs fore and hind that seemed as if
made of hammered iron, so clean and yet so well twisted
with sinew ; a neat, round hoof, just the requisite for hard
ground; the tail set on, or rather thrown out at a perfect
arch ; coats smooth, shining, and light, the mane long, but
not overgrown nor heavy, and an air and step that seemed
to say, "Look at me, am I not pretty?" their appearanco
justified all reputation, all value, all poetry.
The prevailing color was chestnut or gray ; a light bay,
an iron color, white or black, were less common ; full bay.
Palgrave] IN THE CAPITAL OF NED J ED. 53
flea-bitten or piebald, none. But if asked what are, after
all, the specially distinctive points of the Nedjeo horse,
I should reply the slope of the shoulder, the extreme
cleanness of the shank, and the full, rounded haunch,
though every other part, too, has a perfection and a har-
mony unwitnessed (at least by my eyes) anywhere else.
Nedjeo horses are especially esteemed for great speed
and endurance of fatigue ; indeed, in this latter quality, none
come up to them. To pass twenty-four hours on the road
without drink and without flagging is certainly something ;
but to keep up the same abstinence and labor conjoined
under the burning Arabian sky for forty-eight hours at a
stretch is, I believe, peculiar to the animals of the breed.
Besides, they have a delicacy, I cannot say of mouth, for
it is common to ride them without bit or bridle, but of
feeling and obedience to the knee and thigh, to the slight-
est check of the halter and the voice of the rider, far
surpassing whatever the most elaborate manege gives a
European horse, though furnished with snaffle, curb, and
all.
I often mounted them at the invitation of their owners,
and without saddle, rein, or stirrup, set them off at full gal-
lop, wheeled them round, brought them up in mid career
at a dead halt, and that without the least difficulty or the
smallest want of correspondence between the horse's move-
ments and my own will ; the rider on their back really feels
himself the man-half of a centaur, not a distinct being.
[Eventually Palgrave's residence in Ri'ad grew perilous through the
enmity <>f Abdullah, son of Feysul, the reigning monarch, for the reason
that the physician refused to furnish him poison with which to dispose
of his brother. It became necessary to escape secretly from the city.]
Our plan for the future was soon formed. A day or two
wo were yet to remain in Ri'ad, lest hasto should seem to
6*
54 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
imply fear, and thereby encourage pursuit. But during
that period we would avoid the palace, out-walks in gar-
dens or after nightfall, and keep at home as much as
possible. Meanwhile, Aboo-'Eysa was to get his dromedaries
ready, and put them in a court-yard immediately adjoining
the house, to be laden at a moment's notice.
A band of travellers was to leave Ei'ad for Hasa a few
days later. Aboo-'Eysa gave out publicly that he would
accompany them to Hof hoof, while Ave were supposed to
intend following the northern or Sedeyr track, by which
the Na'ib, after many reciprocal farewells and assurances
of lasting friendship, should we ever meet again, had lately
departed. Mobeyreek, a black servant in Aboo-'Eysa's pay,
occupied himself diligently in feeding up the camels for
their long march with clover and vetches, both abundant
here ; and we continued our medical avocations, but quietly,
and without much leaving the house.
During the afternoon of the 24th we brought three of
Aboo-'Eysa's camels into our court-yard, shut the outer
door, packed, and laded. We then awaited the moment of
evening prayer; it came, and the voice of the Mu'eddineen
summoned all good Wahabees, the men of the town-guard
not excepted, to the different mosques. When about ten
minutes had gone by, and all might be supposed at their
prayers, we opened our door. Mobeyreek gave a glance
up and down the street to ascertain that no one was in
sight, and we led out the camels. Aboo-'Eysa accompa-
nied us. Avoiding the larger thoroughfares, we took our
way by by-lanes and side-passages towards a small town-
gate, the nearest to our house, and opening on the north.
A late comer fell in with us on his way to the Mesjid, and
as he passed summoned us also to the public service. But
Aboo-'Eysa unhesitatingly replied, " We have this moment
come from prayers," and our interlocutor, fearing to bo
Palgrave] IN THE CAPITAL OF NED JED. 55
himself too lute and thus to fall under reprehension and
punishment, rushed off to the nearest oratory, leaving tho
road clear. Nobody was in watch at the gate. Wc crossed
its threshold, turned southeast, and under the rapid twilight
reached a range of small hillocks, behind which we shel-
tered ourselves till the stars came out, and the " wing of
night," to quote Arab poets, spread black over town and
country.
[Aboo-'Eysa returned to the city, so as to escape suspicion of being
involved in the flight, the travellers arranging to meet him, on his de-
parture with the caravan, at a selected spot.]
After winding here and there, we reached the spot as-
signed by Aboo-'Eysa for our hiding-place. It was a small
sandy depth, lying some way off the beaten track, amid
hillocks and brushwood, and without water; of this latter
article we had taken enough in the goat-skins to last us
for three days. Here we halted, and made up our minds
to patience and expectation.
Two daj-s passed drearily enough. We could not but
long for our guide's arrival, nor be wholly without fear
on more than one score. Once or twice a stray peasant
stumbled on us, and was much surprised at our encamp-
ment in so droughty a locality. Sometimes leaving our
dromedaries crouching down, and concealed among the
shrubs, we wandered up tho valley, climbed the high
chalky cliffs of Toweyk, to gain a distant glimpse of the
blue sierra of Ilareek in the far south, and the white
ranges of Toweyk north and east. Or we dodged tho
numerous nor over-shy herds of gazelles, not for any desire
of catching them, but simply to pass tho time and distract
tho mind weary of conjecture. So tho hours went by, till
tho third day brought closer expectation and anxiety, still
increasing while the sun declined, and at last went down ;
56 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
yet nobody appeared. But just as darkness closed in, and
we were sitting in a dispirited group beside our little fire,
for the night air blew chill, Aboo-'Eysa came suddenly up,
and all was changed for question and answer, for cheerful-
ness and laughter.
[There was no evidence of pursuit, and the fugitives reached the
cultivated district of Hasa without molestation. We shall conclude
with Palgrave's description of the Arabian women.]
My fair readers will be pleased to learn that the veil and
other restraints inflicted on the gentle sex by Islamitic
rigorism, not to say worse, are much less universal, and
more easily dispensed with in Hasa ; while in addition,
the ladies of the land enjoy a remarkable share of those
natural gifts which no institutions, and even no cosmetics,
can confer, — namely, beauty of face and elegance of form.
Mi<rht I venture on the delicate and somewhat invidious
task of constructing a " beauty-scale" for Arabia, and for
Arabia alone, the Bedouin women would, on this kalometer,
be represented by zero, or at most 1° ; a degree higher
would represent the female sex of Nedjed; above them
rank the women of Shomer, who are in their turn sur-
mounted by those of Djowf. The fifth or sixth degree
symbolizes the fair ones of Hasa; the seventh those of
Katar; and lastly, by a sudden rise of ten degrees at
least, the seventeenth or eighteenth would denote the pre-
eminent beauties of Oman.
Arab poets occasionally languish after the charmers of
Hedjaz ; I never saw any one to charm me, but then I only
skirted the province. All bear witness to the absenco of
female loveliness in Yemen ; and I should much doubt
whether the mulatto races and dusky complexions of
Hadramaut have much to vaunt of. But in Hasa a de-
cided improvement on this important point is agreeably
Burton] PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AND MEDINA. 57
evident to the traveller arriving from Nedjed, and ho will
be yet further dolighted on finding his Calypsos much
more convertible, and having much more, too, in their
conversation than those he left behind him in Sedeyr and
'Aared.
PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AND MEDINA.
RICHARD F. BURTON.
[Captain Burton, whose discovery of the great lake Tanganyika, in
Central Africa, we have elsewhere chronicled, preceded his African
explorations by a daring and successful journey to Mecca and Medina
in the disguise of a Moslem pilgrim. This journey took place forty
years after that of Burckhardt,— elsewhere given, — hut is told in more
lively and graphic language, and supplies deficiencies in the older
narrative. We therefore give some extracts from Burton's work.
Burton studied the Mohammedan requisites thoroughly, joined a
society of dervishes under the name of Shekh Abdullah, and pro-
fessed to be an Afghan by birth. Thus prepared, he took passage
from Suez for Djidda, the port of Mecca, July 1, 1853. His narra-
tive continues as follows :]
Immense was the confusion on the eventful day of our
departure Suppose us standing on the beach, on the
morning of a fiery July day, carefully watching our
hurriedly-packed goods and chattels, surrounded by a
mob of idlers who are not too proud to pick up waifs
and strays, while pilgrims rush about apparently mad, and
friends are weeping, acquaintances vociferating adieux,
boatmen demanding fees, shopmen claiming debts, women
shrieking and talking with inconceivable power, children
crying, — in short, for an hour or so we were in the thick
of a human storm. To confound confusion, the boatmen
have moored their skiff half a dozen yards away from the
58 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burton
shore, lest the porters should ho unable to make more than
double their fare from the pilgrims.
[While crossing to the Arahian shore, the pilgrims are accustomed
to repeat the following prayer, which is a good example of Moslem
invocation :]
O Allah, O Exalted, O Almighty, O All-pitiful, O All-
powerful, thou art my God, and sufficeth to me the knowl-
edge of it ! Glorified be the Lord my Lord, and glorified
be the faith my faith ! Thou givest victory to whom thou
pleasest, and thou art the glorious, the merciful ! We pray
thee for safety in our goings- forth and in our standings-
still, in our words and our designs, in our dangers of temp-
tation and doubts, and the secret designs of our hearts.
Subject unto us this sea, even as thou didst subject the
deep to Moses, and as thou didst subject the fire to
Abraham, and as thou didst subject the iron to David, and
as thou didst subject the wind, and the devils, and genii,
and mankind to Solomon, and as thou didst subject the
moon and El-Burak to Mohammed, upon whom be Allah's
mercy and His blessing! And subject unto us all the seas
in earth and heaven, in the visible and in thine invisible
worlds, the sea of this life, and the sea of futurity. O
thou who reignest over everything, and unto whom all
things return, Khyar ! Khyar '
[It was Burton's secret purpose to reach Mecca by way of Medina,
and on reaching Yembo he joined the pilgrims bound for the latter
city. The route lay over a desert region.]
We travelled through a country fantastic in its desola-
tion, — a mass of huge hills, barren plains, and desert vales.
Even the sturdy acacias here failed, and in some places the
camel-grass could not find earth enough to take root in.
The road wound among mountains, rocks, and hills of
Burton] PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AND MEDINA. 59
granite, over broken ground, flanked by huge blocks and
boulders, piled up as if man's art had aided nature to dis-
figure herself. Vast clefts seemed like scars on the hideous
face of earth ; here they widened into dark caves, there
they were choked up with glistening drift sand. Not a
bird or a beast was to be seen or heard ; their presence
would have argued the vicinity of water, and though my
companions opined that Bedouins were lurking among the
rocks, I decided that these Bedouins were the creatures of
their fears. Above, a sky like polished blue steel, with a
tremendous blaze of yellow light, glared upon us, without
the thinnest veil of mist or cloud. The distant prospect,
indeed, was more attractive than the near view, because it
borrowed a bright azure tinge from the intervening atmos-
phere ; but the jagged peaks and the perpendicular streaks
of shadow down the flanks of the mountainous background
showed that no change for the better was yet in store for us.
[After a deep rest from their fatigue they set out on the most dan-
gerous portion of the route.]
We travelled that night up a dry river-course in an
easterly direction, and at early dawn found ourselves in an
ill-famed gorge, called Shuab el-Hadj (the " Pilgrim's Pass").
The loudest talkers became silent as we neared it, and
their countenances showed apprehension written in legible
characters. Presently, from the high, precipitous cliff on
our left, thin blue curls of smoke — somehow or other they
caught every eye — rose in the air, and instantly afterwards
rang the loud, sharp cracks of the hill-men's matchlocks,
echoed by the rocks on the right. My shugduf had been
broken by the camel's falling during the night, so I called
out to Mansiir that we had better splice the frame-work
with a bit of rope ; he looked up, saw mo laughing, and
with an ejaculation of disgust disappeared. A number of
60 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burton
Bedouins were to be seen swarming like hornets over the
crests of the rocks, boys as well as men carrying huge
weapons, and climbing with the agility of cats. They took
up comfortable places in the cut-throat eminence, and be-
gan firing upon us with perfect convenience to themselves.
The height of the hills and the glare of the rising sun
prevented my seeing objects very distinctly, but my com-
panions pointed out to me places where the rock had been
scarped and a kind of breastwork of rough stones — the
Sangah of Afghanistan — piled up as a defence, and a rest
for the long barrel of the matchlock. It was useless to
challenge the Bedouins to come down and fight us upon
the plain like men ; and it was equally unprofitable for our
escort to fire upon a foe ensconced behind stones. We had,
therefore, nothing to do but to blaze away as much powder
and to veil ourselves in as much smoke as possible; the
result of the affair was that we lost twelve men, besides
camels and other beasts of burden. Though the bandits
showed no symptoms of bravery, and confined themselves
to slaughtering the enemy from their hill-top, my com-
panions seemed to consider this questionable affair a most
gallant exploit.
[After two more days of severe travel they came in sight of the
city of Medina.]
Half an hour after leaving the Wady el-Akik, or " Blessed
Valley," we came to a huge flight of steps, roughly cut
in a long, broad line of black, scoriaceous basalt. This is
called the Mudarraj, or flight of steps over the western
ridge of the so-called El-Harratain ; it is holy ground,
for the Prophet spoke well of it. Arrived at the top, wo
passed through a lane of black scoria, with steep banks on
both sides, and, after a few minutes, a full view of the city
suddenly opened on us. We halted our beasts as if by
Burton] PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AND MEDINA. 61
word of command. All of us descended, in imitation of
the pious of old, and sat down, jaded and hungry as we
were, to feast our eyes with a view of the Holy City. The
prayer was, " O Allah I this is the Haram (sanctuary) of
the Prophet ; make it to us a protection from hell fire, and
a refuge from eternal punishment I O, open the gates of
thy mercy, and let us pass through them to the land of joy !"
As we looked eastward, the sun arose out of the horizon
of low hills, blurred and dotted with small tufted trees,
which gained a giant stature from the morning mists, and
the earth was stained with gold and purple. Before us
lay a spacious plain, bounded in front by the undulating
ground of Nedjed ; on the left was a grim barrier of rocks,
the celebrated Mount Ohod, with a clump of verdure and
a white dome or two nestling at its base. Eightward,
broad streaks of lilac-colored mists were thick with gath-
ered deAv, there pierced and thinned by the morning rays,
stretched over the date-groves and the gardens of Kuba,
which stood out in emerald-green from the dull tawny
surface of the plain. Below, at the distance of about
two miles, lay El Medina ; at first sight it appeared a large
place, but a closer inspection proved the impression to be
an erroneous one.
[Burton thus describes the Prophet's mosque :]
Passing through muddy streets — they had been freshly
watered before evening-time — I came suddenly upon the
mosque. Like that at Mecca, the approach is choked up
by ignoble buildings, some actually touching the holy en-
cemte, others separated by a lane compared with which
the road around St. Paul's is a Vatican square. There is
no outer front, no general aspect of the Prophet's mosque ;
consequently, as a building it has neither beauty nor dig-
nity. And entering the Bab el-Eahmah — the Gate of Pity
G
62 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burton
— by a diminutive flight of steps, I was astonished at tho
mean and tawdry appearance of a place so universally
venerated in the Moslem world. It is not like the Mecca n
mosque, grand and simple, the expression of a single sub-
lime idea ; the longer I looked at it the more it suggested
the resemblance of a museum of second-rate art, a curiosity-
shop, full of ornaments that are not accessories, and deco-
rated with pauper splendor.
[He thus describes his manner of spending the day while residing
in Medina :]
At dawn we arose, washed, prayed, and broke our fast
upon a crust of stale bread, before smoking a pipe and
drinking a cup of coffee. Then it was time to dress, to
mount, and to visit the Haram in one of the holy places
outside the city. Returning before the sun became intoler-
able, we sat together, and with conversation, shishas and
chibouques, coffee and cold water perfumed with mastich-
smoke, we whiled away the time till our ariston, an early
dinner which appeared at the primitive hour of eleven a.m.
The meal was served in the majlis on a large copper tray,
sent from the upper apartments. Ejaculating " Bismillah"
— the Moslem grace— we all sat round it, and dipped equal
hands in the dishes set before us. We had usually un-
leavened bread, different kinds of meat and vegetable stews,
and at the end of the first course plain boiled rice, eaten
with spoons ; then came the fruits, fresh dates, grapes, and
pomegranates.
After dinner I used invariably to find some excuse — such
as the habit of a " Kaylulah" (mid-day siesta), or the being
a " Saudawi"' or person of melancholy temperament — to
have a rug spread in the dark passage, and there to lie
reading, dozing, smoking, or writing, all through the worst
part of the day, from noon to sunset. Then came the hour
Burton] PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AND MEDINA. G3
for receiving and paying visits. The evening prayers en-
sued, either at home or in the Haram, followed by our
supper, another substantial meal like the dinner, but more
plentiful of bread, meat, vegetables, rice, and fruits. Jn
the evening we sometimes dressed in common clothes and
went to the cafe; sometimes, on festive occasions, we in-
dulged in a late supper of sweetmeats, pomegranates, and
dried fruits. Usually we sat upon mattresses spread upon
the ground in the open air at the Shekh's door, receiving
evening visits, chatting, telling stories, and making merry,
till each, as he felt the approach of the drowsy god, sank
down into his proper place and fell asleep.
[The caravan from Damascus arriving, and starting soon after for
Mecca, Burton and his companions joined it. The route taken was
the short desert road, instead of the longer coast road. One day's
experience will serve as an example.]
This day's march was peculiai'ly Arabia. It was a desert
peopled only with echoes, — a place of death for what little
there is to die in it, — a wilderness, where, to use my com-
panion's phrase, there is nothing but He (Allah). Nature,
scalped, flayed, discovered her anatomy to the gazer's e} 7 e.
The horizon was a sea of mirage; gigantic sand-columns
whirled over the plain ; and on both sides of our road were
huge piles of bare rock, standing detached upon the surface
of sand and clay. Here they appeared in oval lumps, heaped
up with a semblance of symmetry; there a single boulder
stood, with its narrow foundation based upon a pedestal of
low, dome-shaped rock. All are of a pink coarse-grained
granite, which flakes off in large crusts under the influence
of the atmosphex'e.
[A few days afterwards they were attacked by a fierce tribe of
Bedouins, whom, however, they soon put to flight. Burton thus
describes his part in the affray :]
64 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burton
At the beginning of the skirmish I had primed my pistols,
and sat with them ready for use. But soon seeing that there
was nothing to be done, and, wishing to make an impression,
— nowhere does Bobadil now "go down" but in the Bast, —
I called aloud for my supper. Shekh Nur, exanimate with
fear, could not move. The boy Mohammed ejaculated only
an " Oh, sir I" and the people around exclaimed in disgust,
" By Allah I he eats I" Shekh Abdullah, the Meccan, being
a man of spirit, was amused by the spectacle. " Are these
Afghan manners, Effendim ?" he inquired from the shugduf
behind me. " Yes," I replied aloud, " in my country wo
always dine before an attack of robbers, because that
gentry is in the habit of sending men to bed supperless."
The Shekh laughed aloud, but those around him looked
offended.
[After midnight of the next day they came within sight of Mecca.
Burton was roused hy a general excitement in the caravan. " Mecca !
Mecca!" cried some voices; "The Sanctuary, O the Sanctuary!"
exclaimed others, and all hurst into loud cries of "Labeyk!" not
unfrequently broken by sobs. A short distance farther, and they
entered the northern suburb. After an hour or two of sleep they
rose at dawn, in order to perform the ceremonies of arrival. After
having bathed, they walked in their pilgrim garb to the Beit Allah,
or "House of God."]
There at last it lay, the bourne of my long and weary
pilgrimage, realizing the plans and hopes of many and
many a year. The mirage medium of fancy invested the
huge catafalque and its gloomy pall with peculiar charms.
There were no giant fragments of hoar antiquity as in
Egypt, no remains of graceful and harmonious beauty as
in Greece and Italy, no barbaric gorgeousness as in the
buildings of India ; yet the view was strange, unique, and
how few have looked upon the celebrated shrine ! I may
truly say that, of all the worshippers who clung weeping
Burton] PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AXD MEDINA. G5
to the curtain, or who pressed their beating hearts to the
stone, none felt for the moment a deeper emotion than did
the Hadji from the far north. It was as if the poetical
legends of the Arab spoke truth, and that the waving
wings of angels, not the sweet breeze of morning, were
agitating and swelling the black covering of the shrine.
But, to confess humbling truth, theirs was the high feeling
of religious enthusiasm, mine was the ecstasy of gratified
pride.
[Burton's account of the visit to the famous Black Stone is curious
and amusing.]
For a long time I stood looking in despair at the swarm-
ing crowd of Bedouin and other pilgrims that besieged it.
But the boy Mohammed was equal to the occasion. During
our circuit he had displayed a fiery zeal against heresy and
schism, by foully abusing every Persian in his path ; and the
inopportune introduction of hard words into his prayers
made the latter a strange patchwork. He might, for in-
stance, be repeating "and I take refuge with thee from
ignominy in this woi'ld," when, " O thou rejected one, son
of the rejected !" would be the interpolation addressed to
some long-bearded Khorasani, — " and in that to come — O
ho<r and brother of a hoc-sress!" And so he continued till
I wondered that no one dared to turn and rend him.
After vainly addressing the pilgrims, of whom nothing
could be seen but a mosaic of occiputs and shoulder-blades,
the boy Mohammed collected about half a dozen stalwart
Meccans, with whose assistance, by sheer strength, we
wedged our way into the thin and light-legged crowd.
The Bedouins turned round upon us like wildcats, but
they had no daggers. The season being autumn, they
had not swelled themselves with milk for six months;
and they bad become such living mummies that 1 could
in. — e 6*
66 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burton
have managed single-handed half a dozen of them. After
thus reaching the stone, despite popular indignation, tes-
tified by impatient shouts, we monopolized the use of it
for at least ten minutes. Whilst kissing it and rubbing
hands and forehead upon it I narrowly observed it, and
came away persuaded that it is a big aerolite.
[On September 12 the pilgrims set out for Mount Arafat, passing
the traditional tomb of Adam on their way. We have already given
Burckhardt's description of the ceremonies here.]
Arafat .is about a six hours' march, or twelve miles, on
the Taif road, due east of Mecca. We arrived there in a
shorter time, but our weary camels, during the last third
of the way, frequently threw themselves upon the ground.
Human beings suffered more. Between Muua and Arafat
I saw no less than five men fall down and die upon tho
highway; exhausted and moribund, they had dragged
themselves out to give up the ghost where it departs to
instant beatitude. The spectacle showed how easy it is to
die in these latitudes ; each man suddenly staggered, iell
as if shot, and, after a brief convulsion, lay still as marble.
The corpses were carefully taken up, and carelessly buried
that same evening, in a vacant space among the crowds
encamped upon the Arafat plain.
Nothing can be more picturesque than the view the
mountain affords of the blue peaks behind, and the vast
encampment scattered over the barren yellow plain below.
On the north lay the regularly pitched camp of the guards
that defend the unarmed pilgrims. To the eastward was
the Scherif s encampment with the bright mahmals and the
gilt knobs of the grander pavilions; whilst, on' the south-
ern and western sides, the tents of the vulgar crowded the
ground, disposed in dowars, or circles, for penning cattle.
Burton] PILGRIMAGE TO MECCA AND MEDINA. 67
After many calculations, I estimated the number to bo not
less than fifty thousand of all ages and sexes.
[After the sermon on Arafat, the ceremony of " stoning the Great
Devil" is performed : The " Shay tan el-Kabir' is a dwarf buttress of
rude masonry, about eight feet high by two and a half broad, placed
against a rough wall of stones.]
As the ceremony of " Kamy," or Lapidation, must bo
performed on the first day by all pilgrims between sunrise
and sunset, and as the fiend was malicious enough to ap-
pear in a rugged pass, the crowd makes the place dan-
gerous. On one side of the road, which is not forty feet
broad, stood a row of shops belonging principally to bar-
bers. On the other side is the rugged wall of the pillar,
with a chevaux-de-frise of Bedouins and naked boys. The
narrow space was crowded with pilgrims, all struggling
like drowning men to approach as near as possible to the
Devil ; it would have been easy to run over the heads of
the mass. Among them were horsemen with rearing
chargers. Bedouins on wild camels, and grandees on mules
and asses, with outrunners, were breaking a way by assault
and battery.
I had read Ali Bey's self-felicitations upon escaping this
place with "only two wounds in the left leg," and had
duly provided myself with a hidden dagger. The precau-
tion was not useless. Scarcely had my donkey entered
the crowd than he was overthrown by a dromedary, and I
found myself under the stamping and roaring beast's
stomach. By a judicious use of the knife I avoided being
trampled upon, and lost no time in escaping from a place
so ignobly dangerous. Finding an opening at last, we ap-
proached within about five cubits of the place, and holding
each stone between the thumb and forefinger of the ring
hand, cast it at the pillar, exclaiming, "In the name of
68 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Burton
Allah, and Allah is Almighty, I do this in hatred of the
Fiend and to his shame."
The seven stones being duly thrown, we retired, and,
entering the barber's booth, took our places upon one of
the earthen benches around it. This was the time to
remove the ihram, or pilgrim's garb, and to return to ihlal,
the normal state of El Islam. The barber shaved our
heads, and, after trimming our beards and cutting our
nails, made us repeat these words : " I purpose loosening
my ihram according to the practice of the Prophet, whom
may Allah bless and preserve ! O Allah, make unto me in
every hair, a light, a purity, and a generous reward ! In
the name of Allah, and Allah is Almighty I" At the con-
clusion of his labor the bai'ber politely addressed to us a
"Naiman," — Pleasure to you! To which we as ceremo-
niously replied, "Allah give thee pleasure 1"
[In conclusion we give Burton's description of a sermon in the great
mosque of Mecca.]
After returning to the city from the sacrifice of sheep in
the valley of Muna, we bathed, and when noon drew nigh
we repaired to the Haram for the purpose of hearing the
sermon. Descending to the cloisters below the Bab el-
Ziyadah, I stood wonderstruck by the scene before me.
The vast quadrangle was crowded with worshippers sitting
in long rows, and everywhere facing the central black
tower : the showy colors of their dresses were not to be
surpassed by a garden of the most brilliant flowers, and
such diversity of detail would probably not be seen massed
together in any other building upon earth. The women, a
dull and sombre-looking group, sat apart in their peculiar
place. The Pasha stood on the roof of Zem Zem, sur-
rounded by guards in Nizam uniform. Where the princi-
pal ulema stationed themselves the crowd was thicker;
Palgrave] SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN. 69
and in the more auspicious spots naught was to bo seen but
a pavement of heads and shoulders.
Nothing seemed to move but a few dervishes, who, censer
in hand, sidled thi'ourjh the rows and received the unso-
licited alms of the faithful. Apparently in the midst, and
raised above the crowd by the tall, pointed pulpit, whoso
gilt spire flamed in the sun, sat the preacher, an old man
with snowy beard. The style of head-dress called tay-
lasan covered his turban, which was white as his robes,
and a short staff supported his left hand.
Presently he arose, took the staff in his right hand, pro-
nounced a few inaudible words, and sat down again on ono
of the lower steps, whilst a Muezzin, at the foot of the pul-
pit, recited the call to sermon. Then the old man stood up
and began to preach. As the majestic figure began to
exert itself there was a deep silence. Presently a general
" Arnin" was intoned by the crowd at the conclusion of
some long sentence. And at last, towards the end of the
sermon, every third or fourth word was followed by the
simultaneous rise and fall of thousands of voices.
I have seen the religious ceremonies of many lands, but
never — nowhere — aught so solemn, so impressive, as this
spectacle.
A SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN.
WILLIAM G. PALGRAVE.
[We have already given two selections from the works of Palgrave,
but cannot resist the desire to give a third, in view of the exciting
interest of the conclusion of his story of Arabian travel, which came
perilously near being cut short by death in the waters of the Arabian
Sea. The narrative of the shipwreck and narrow escape which ended
his journey is vividly told. It had beon his purpose to complete his
70 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
journey by an exploration of the province of Oman, and for this pur-
pose he took ship from the harbor of Sohar for Muscat, to avoid some
nine days of land travel. "What followed we give in his words.]
Towards evening a light southwesterly breeze sprang
up, and we spread our sails, hoping by their aid, though
the wind was not precisely from the right quarter, to find
our way, after some tacking and wearing, into Muscat
harbor. But the breeze rapidly grew till it became a
strong gale, and in half an hour's time it was a down-
right storm, baffling all nautical manoeuvres. One of our
sails was blown to rags, the others were with difficulty
got in, and when night closed we were driving under
bare poles before a fierce southwester over a raging sea,
while the sky, though unclouded, was veiled from view by
a general haze, such as often accompanies a high storm.
The passengers were frightened, but the sailors and I
rather enjoyed the adventure, knowing that we were by
this time far off the coast, clear of all rocks, and, in short,
anticipating nothing worse than a day or two extra at sea
before getting round to Muscat.
The moon rose — she was in her third quarter — and
showed us a weltering waste of waters, where we were
scudding entirely alone ; some other vessels which had
been in sight at sunset had now totally disappeared. The
passengers, and Yoosef among the number, dismayed by
the mad roll of the ship, no longer steadied by a stitch of
canvas, by the dashing of the waves, and all the confusion
of a storm, sat huddled below in the aft cabin, while the
helmsman, the captain, and myself held on to the ropes of
the quarter, and so kept our places as best we might ; the
Sonnees with the Nedjeans recited verses out of the Koran ;
the Omanee sailors laughed, or tried to laugh, for some of
them, too, began to think the matter serious \ no one,
Palqrave] SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN. 71
however, anticipated the sudden catastrophe near at
hand.
It may have been, to judge by the height of the moon
above the horizon, about ten of the night, or a little
earlier, when we remarked that the ship, instead of
bounding and tossing over the waves as before, began
to drive low in the water, with a heavy lurch of a peculiar
character. One of the sailors approached the captain and
whispered in his ear ; in reply the captain directed them
to sound the hold. Two men went to work, and found
the lower part of the vessel full of water. Hastily they
removed some side boardings, and saw a large stream
pouring into the hole from sternwards; a plank had
started.
The captain rose in despair full length, and called out,
"Irmoo!" ("Throw overboard !"), hoping that lightening
the ship of her cargo might yet save her. In a moment the
hatchways amidships were removed, and all hands were
busy to execute the last and desperate duty. But no more
than three bales had been cast into the deep, when a ripple
of blue, phosphoric light crossed the main-deck ; the sea
was already above board. No chance remained. " Ikha-
moo!" ("Plunge for it!"), shouted the captain, and set the
example by leaping himself amid the waves. All this
passed in less than a minute ; there was no time for de-
liberation, or attempt to save anything.
How to get clear of the whirl which must follow the
ship's going down was my first thought. I clambered at
once on the quarter-deck, which was yet some feet raised
above the triumph of the lashing waves, invoked Him
who can save by sea as well as by land, and dived head
foremost as far as I could. After a few vigorous strokes
out, I turned my face back towards the ship, whence a
wail of despair had been the last sound I had heard.
72 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
Then I saw amid the raging waters the top of the mizzen-
mast just before it disappeared below with a spiral move-
ment, while I was yet looking at it. Six men — five pas-
sengers and one sailor â €” had gone down with the vessel.
A minute later, and boards, mats, and spars were floating
here and there amid the breakers, while the heads of the
surviving swimmers now showed themselves, now disap-
peared, in the moongleam and shadow.
So rapidly had all this taken place that I had not a
moment for so much as to throw off a single article of
dress ; though the buffeting of the waves soon eased me of
turban and girdle. Nor had I even leisure for a thought
of deliberate fear ; though I confess that an indescribable
thrill of horror, which had come over me when the blue
glimmer of the water first rippled over the deck, though
scarce noticed at the time, haunted me for months after.
But at the actual moment, the struggle for life left no
freedom for backward-looking considerations, and I was
already making for a piece of timber that floated not far off,
when, on looking around more carefully, I descried at some
distance the ship's boat ; she had been dragged after us thus
far at a long tow, Arab fashion, though who had cut her
rope before the ship foundered was what no one of us could
ever discover. She had now drifted some sixty yards off,
and was dancing like an empty nut-shell on the ocean.
Being, like the Spanish sailors in " Don Juan," well aware
" That a tight boat will live in a rough sea, Unless with
breakers close beneath her lee," I gave up the plank, and
struck out for the new hope of safety. By the time I had
reached her, three of the crew had already established
themselves there before me ; they lent me a hand to clam-
ber in ; others now came up, and before long nine men, be-
sides the lad, nephew of the captain, were in her, closely
packed. So soon as I found myself in this ark of respite,
Palgrave] SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN. 73
though not of safety, I bethought me of Yoosef, whom I
had not seen since the moment of our wreck. He was not
along with us; but while, scarce hoping, I shouted out his
name over the waters to crivo him a chance of a signal,
<; Here I am, master, God be praised !" answered the drip-
ping head ; and we hauled him in to take his fortune with
the rest.
We were now twelve, — namely, the captain, his nephew,
the pilot, and four of the crew; the remaining five con-
sisted of ono of the passengers from 'Okdah, — for the other
had gone down in the ship, — the runaway scapegrace of
Manfoohah, and a nativo of Soroeyk, besides Yoosef and
myself. Three others at this moment came swimming up,
and wished to enter, but the boat, calculated to contain
eight or nine at most, was already overloaded, especially
for so mad a sea, and to admit a new burden was out of
the question. However, the poor fellows got hold of a
spare yard-arm, which had floated up from the sunken ves-
sel. This we made fast to the boat's stern by a rope, and
thus took the three in tow clinging to it, two passengers
and a sailor.
Four oars were stowed in the boat, and her rudder, un-
shipped, lay in the bottom, along with a small iron anchor
and an extra plank or two. The anchor was without delay
heaved overboard by the pilot and myself as a superfluous
weight, and so were the planks. Meanwhile, some of the
sailors prepared to do as much for the passengers, ob-
serving, not without a certain show of reason on their side,
that with so many on board, there could be remarkably
little hope of ever reaching shore; that the boat was after
all the sailors' right, and the rest might manage on the
beam astern as best they could.
Fortunately, during tho voyage I had become a particular
friend of the captain and pilot, besides earning the special
d 7
74 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgravk
good-will of a merry, sturdy young seaman now in the
boat. So I addressed myself to them first, and then to all
the crew, and declared the expulsory proposition to be
utterly unjust, wicked, and not fit for discussion, and then,
to cut short reply, I proceeded, aided by the pilot, who
seconded me manfully throughout, to distribute the oars
among the sailors ; as indeed it was high time to do, in
order to steady the boat, over which every wave now
broke, threatening to send us to the bottom after her old
companion. The captain took post at the rudder, while
the pilot and myself set to bailing out the water partly
with a leathern bucket which one of the crew had kept
the presence of mind to bring with him from the ship
(holding the handle between his teeth no less cleverly than
Csesar did his sword off the Alexandrian Pharos), and
partly with a large scoop belonging to the boat ; both im-
plements were in constant requisition, since every bucket-
ful or scoopful of water thrown out was by the next wave
repaid with usury, so fiercely did the storm rage around.
The Sonnee of Djebel-'Okdah sat up in the boat repeat-
ing verses of the Koran ; the captain's nephew showed ex-
traordinary spirit for a boy of his age; the sailors managed
their oars with much skill and courage, keeping us carefully
athwart the roll of the sea ; the rest, and I am sorry to say
Yoosef for one, were so terribly frightened that they had
completely lost their wits, and lay like dead men amid the
water in the boat's bottom, neither raising a head nor say-
ing a word.
Indeed, our position, though not wholly without a gleam
of hope, seemed very nearly desperate. We were in an
open, overloaded boat, her movements yet further em-
barrassed by the beam in tow, far out at sea. — so far as to
be quite beyond view of the coast, though the high shore
hereabouts can be seen at a long distance, even by moon-
Palqrave] SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN. 75
light, — with a howling wind, every moment on the increase,
and tearing waves like huge monsters coming on as though
with purpose to swallow us up. What reasonable chance
had we of ever reaching land ? All depended on the steer-
age and on the balance and support afforded by the oars ;
and even more still on the providence of Him who made
the deep ; nor indeed could I get myself to think that He
had brought me thus far to let me drown, just at the end of
my journey, and in so very unsatisfactory a way, too ; for
had we then gone down, what news of the events off Sowa-
dah would ever have reached home ? Or when ? So that,
altogether, I felt confident of getting somehow or another
on shore, though by what means I did not exactly know.
The Mahometans on board (they were two) — so at least,
poor fellows, their demeanor seemed to show — prayed as
best they might; the Biadeeyah mostly kept silence, or
exchanged a few words relative to the management of the
boat, while the young sailor already mentioned cracked
jokes as coollj- as though he had been in his cottage on
shore, making the rest laugh in spite of themselves, and
thus keeping up their spirits, — the best thing just then to
be done, for to lose heart would have been to lose all.
From an idea that so learned a man (in Arab estimation)
as I ought, among other acquirements, to be better ac-
quainted with the chart than any one else, and perhaps,
too, because I seemed to be less thrown out of my reckon-
ings than most of our party, all referred to me for the
direction of our hazardous course. By the stars, a few
of which were dimly visible between mist and moonlight,
I guessed the whereabouts of shore. It lay almost due
south ; but the hurricane had now veered and blew from
between west and north ; hence we were obliged to follow
a southeasterly line, in order to avoid the sudden destruc-
tion of giving a broadside to the waves. Once sure of thia
76 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
point, I made the men keep our boat's head steady on the
tack just explained, and for a long hour we pulled on,
baling out the water every moment, and encouraging each
other to keep up good heart ; that land could not be far off.
At last I saw, by the milky moonlight, a rock which I
remembered sighting on the previous afternoon ; it was the
Rock of Djeyn, an outlying point of the Sowadah group,
and now at some distance on our leeboard. " Courage !" I
cried out, "there is Djeyn." " Say it again, say it again ;
God bless you !" they all exclaimed, as though the repeti-
tion of the good news would make it of yet better augury ;
but I perceived that none of them had his senses enough
about him to see the black peak, which now loomed distant
over the sea. "Is it near?" asked he of Djebel-'Okdah.
" Close by," I answered, with a slight inaccuracy, which
the duty of cheering the crew might, I hope, excuse.
" Pull away, we shall soon pass it." But in my own indi-
vidual thought I much doubted the while whether we ever
should, so rapidly did the boat fill from the spray around,
while a moment's mis-steerage would have sent us all to
the bottom.
Another hour of struggle; it was past midnight or
thereabouts, and the storm, instead of abating, blew
stronger and stronger. A passenger, one of the three on
the beam astern, felt too numb and wearied out to retain
his hold by the spar any longer ; he left it and, swimming
with a desperate effort up to the boat, begged in God's
name to be taken in. Some were for granting his request,
others for denying ; at last two sailors, moved with pity,
laid hold of his arms where he clung to the boat's side and
helped him in. We were now thirteen together, and the
boat rode lower down in the water, and with more danger
than ever ; it was literally a hand's breadth between life
and death.
Palgrave] SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN. 77
Soon after, another, Ibraheem by name, and also a pas-
senger, made a similar attempt to gain admittance. To
comply would have been sheer madness, but the poor
wretch clung to the gunwale and struggled to clamber
over, till the nearest of the crew, after vainly entreating
him to quit hold and return to the beam, saying, " It is
your only chance of life, you must keep to it," loosened
his grasp by main force, and flung him back into the sea,
where he disappeared forever. " Has Ibraheem reached
you?" called out the captain to the sailor now alone astride
of the spar. "Ibraheem is drowned," came the answer
across the waves. " Is drowned," all repeated in an under-
tone, adding, "and we, too, shall soon be drowned also."
For, in fact, such seemed the only probable end of all our
endeavors. For the storm redoubled in violence ; the
baling could no longer keep up with the rate at which the
waves entered ; the boat became waterlogged ; the water
poured in, hissing, on every side ; she was sinking, and wo
were yet far out in the open sea.
" Ikhamoo !" (" Plunge for it !") a second time shouted
the captain. " Plunge who may, 1 will stay by the boat so
long as she stays by me," thought 1, and kept my place.
Yoosef, fortunately for him, was lying like a corpse, past
fear or motion; but four of our party, one a sailor, the
other three passengers, thinking that all hope of the boat
was now over, and that nothing remained them but the
spar, or Heaven knows what, jumped into the sea. Their
loss saved the remainder ; the boat lightened and righted
for a moment ; the pilot and I baled away desperately ; sho
rose clear once more of the water ; those in her were now
nine in all, — eight men and a boy, the captain's nephew.
Meanwhile, the sea was running mountains, and during
the paroxysm of struggle, while the boat pitchod heavily,
the cord attached from her stern to the beam snapped
7*
78 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
asunder. One man was on the spar; yet a minute or so
the moonlight showed us the head of the five swimmers
as they strove to regain the boat. Had they done it we
were all lost ; then a huge wave separated them from us.
" May God have mercy on the poor drowning men !" ex-
claimed the captain. Their bodies were washed ashore
off Seeb three or four days later. "We now remained sole
survivors, if indeed we were to prove so.
Our men rowed hard, and the night wore on; at last
the coast came in full view. Before us was a high black
rock jutting out into the foaming sea, whence it rose sheer,
like the wall of a fortress ; at some distance on the left a
peculiar glimmer and a long white line of breakers assured
me of the existence of an even and sandy beach. The
three sailors now at the oars, and the man of 'Okdah, who
had taken the place of the fourth, grown reckless by long
toil under the momentary expectation of death, and long-
ing to see an end anyhow to this protracted misery, wero
for pushing the boat on the rocks, because the nearest land,
and thus having it all over as soon as possible. This would
have been certain destruction. The captain and pilot, well-
nigh stupefied by what they had undergone, offered no
opposition. I saw that a vigorous effort must be made, so
I laid hold of them both, shook them to arouse their at-
tention, and bade them take heed to what the rowers were
about, adding that it was sheer suicide, and that our only
hope of life was to bear up for the sandy creek, which I
pointed out to them at a short distance.
Thus awakened from their lethargy, they started up and
joined me in expostulating with the sailors. But the men
doggedly answered that they could hold out no more ; that
whatever land was nearest they would make for it, come
what might, and with this they pulled on straight towards
the cliff.
Palgrave] SHIPWRECK ON THE COAST OF OMAN. 79
The captain hastily thrust the rudder into the pilot's
hand, and springing on one of the sailors, pushed him from
the bench and seized his oar, while I did the same to an-
other on the opposite side, and we now got the boat's head
round towards the bay. The refractory sailors, ashamed
of their own faintheartedness, begged pardon, and prom-
ised to act henceforth according to our orders. We gave
them back their oars, very glad to see a strife so danger-
ous, especially at such a moment, soon at an end, and tho
men pulled for the left, though full half an hour's rowing
yet remained between us and the breakers, and the course
which we had to hold was more hazardous than before,
because it laid the boat almost parallel with the sweep of
the water. But half an hour, yet I thought we should
never come opposite the desired spot.
At last we neared it, and then a new danger appeared.
The first row of breakers, rolling like a cataract, was still
far off shore, at least a hundred yards, and between it and
the beach appeared a white yeast of raging waters, evi-
dently ten or twelve feet deep, through which, weary as
we all were, and benumbed with the night chill and the
unceasing splash of the spray over us, I felt it to be very
doubtful whether we should have strength to struggle.
But there was no avoiding it, and when we drew near the
long white line, which glittered like a witchfire in the night,
I called out to Yoosef and the lad, both of whom lay plunged
in death-like stupor, to rise and get ready for the hard
swim now inevitable. They stood up, the sailors laid aside
their oars, and a moment after the curling wave capsized
tho boat, and sent her down as though she had been struck
by a cannon-shot, while we remained to fight for our lives
in the sea.
Confident in my own swimming powers, but doubtful
how far those of Yoosef might reach, I at once turned to
80 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
look for him, and, seeing him close by me in the water, I
caught hold of him, telling him to hold fast and I would
help him to land. But with much presence of mind he
thrust back my grasp, exclaiming, " Save yourself, I am a
good swimmer, never fear for me !" The captain and the
young sailor laid hold of the boy, the captain's nephew,
one on either side, and struck out with him for the shore.
It was a desperate effort ; every wave overwhelmed us in
its burst and carried us back in its eddy, while I drank
much more salt water than was at all desirable. At last,
after some minutes long as hours, I touched land, and
scrambled up the sandy beach as though the avenger of
blood had been behind me. One by one the rest came
ashore, — some stark naked, having cast off or lost their
remaining clothes in the whirling eddies ; others yet re-
taining some part of their dress. Every one looked around
to see whether his companions arrived, and when all nine
stood together on the beach, all cast themselves prostrate
on the sands to thank Heaven for a new lease of life
granted after much danger and so many comrades lost.
Then rising, they ran to embrace each other, laughed,
cried, sobbed, danced. I never saw men so completely
unnerved as they on this first moment of sudden safety.
One grasped the ground with his hands, crying out, " Is
this really land we are on?" Another said, "And where
are our companions?" A third, " God have mercy on the
dead ; let us now thank Him for our own lives !" A fourth
stood bewildered ; all their long and hard-stretched self-
possession gave way. Yoosef had lost his last rag of
dress ; I had, fortunately, yet on two long shirts (one is
still by me) reaching down to the feet, Arab fashion. I
now gave my companion one, keeping the other for my-
self; my red skull-cap had also held firm on my head, so
that I was as well off or better than any. " We may count
Palqrave] shipwreck ox THE COAST OF OMAN. 81
this day for the day of our birth ; it is a new life after
death," said the young Omanec sailor. "There have been
others praying for us at home, and for their sake God
has saved us," added the pilot, thinking of his family and
children. " True ; and more so, perhaps, than you know
of," replied I, remembering some yet farther distant.
While we were thus conversing, and beginning to look
around and wonder on what part of the coast we had
landed, the distant sound of a gun was heard on the right.
" That must be the morning gun of Seeb," said the captain.
Seeb, being a fortified town, and often a royal residence,
has the privilege of a garrison and artillery; now, from the
whereabouts of our wreck, opposite Sowadah, we could not
be very far thence. We were yet discussing this point,
when another gun made itself heard from inland. "That
must be from the palace at Bathat-Farzah" (the valley of
Farzah), said another. "Thoweynee is certainly there, for
the palace guns never fire except when the Sultan is in resi-
dence with his court."
It was now the first glimmer of doubtful dawn, and the
wind sweeping furiously along the beach rendered some
shelter necessary; for we were dripping and chilled to
the bone. So we crept to leeward of a cluster of bushes,
and there each dug out for himself a long trench in
the sand ; and after having thus put ourselves in some
degree under cover, we waited for the morning, which
seemed as though it would never come. At last the moon-
light faded away, and the sun rose, though his rays did
not reach us quite so soon as we should have desired, for
the creek where we had landed was bordered on either
side by high hills, shutting out the horizon. These hills
ended in precipices towards the sea; on the left was the
very rock on which the despairing impatience of the
crew had almost driven us tho night before ; it looked
in—/
82 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palgrave
horrible. The wind yet blew high, and we were shiver-
ing with cold in our scanty clothing. Those who, like
myself, had come on shore with more than what was ab-
solutely necessary for decency, had shared it with thoso
who had nothing.
When the sunbeams at last struck over the hill-side on
the right, we hastened to warm ourselves and to dry our
apparel, — a task speedily performed with so slender a ward-
robe. Next we reconnoitred the position, with which some
of the crew found themselves' to be not wholly unacquainted.
It was a little to the east of Seeb ; but between us and that
town was a high and broad range of rocks, on which our
naked feet had no great disposition to venture ; on the
west we were hemmed in by a corresponding barrier. But
landwards the valley ran up sandy between the hills, and
in that direction appeared an easier path, leading ulti-
mately, so the sailors averred, to the Sultan's country pal-
ace, — the same whence we had heard the night gun, nor
could it be very far off. Once at the palace, all reckoned
on the well-known liberality of Thoweynee for obtaining
assistance.
Thither we resolved to go ; yet before setting out we
turned back to look once more on the sea, still raging in
mad fury. Not a trace of our saviour boat appeared, not
a sail in sight, though the day before (a day that now
seemed a year ago) there had been many. Ten large ves-
sels, part belonging to the Persian coast, part to the Oma-
nee, had gone down besides our own, close to the Sowadah
rocks, that very night ; three, as I afterwards learned, per-
ished with every soul on board ; from one alone the entire
crew escaped ; the rest lost, some more, some less ; we had,
at any rate, companions in misfortune. Gazing on the
ocean, every one made aloud the ordinary resolution of
shipwrecked sailors never to attempt the faithless element
T7arburton] JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY. 83
again ; a resolution kept, I doubt not, as steadily as most
such, — that is, for a fortnight or three weeks.
[It will suffice to say, in conclusion, that the shipwrecked party were
hospitably received by the Sultan, but that Palgrave was attacked by
typhus fever, and forced to give up his projected journey through
Oman. On his recovery he returned to Syria, whence he had set out.]
JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY.
ELIOT WARBURTON.
[A record of travels would be highly incomplete were there not in-
cluded a description of Jerusalem, that city to which the feet of pil-
grims have been for ages turned, and around which the thoughts of so
many " true believers" cluster. Yet in selecting such a description we
sutler from an embarrassment of riches. It has been so abundantly
described that choice becomes very difficult, particularly as we are
obliged to tell the story in fair completeness within the brief space we
can devote to it. The selection given is from Eliot "Warburton's " The
Crescent and the Cross,'" the work of a distinguished writer, and which
has been very popular. The writer was born in Ireland in 1810, and
lost his life in the wreck of the ship "Amazon" in 1852. He was the
author of various works of history, biography, and fiction. Our
account begins where the travellers approached Jerusalem, coming
from Jaffa.]
Henceforth our path necessitated one perpetual climb,
scramble, or slide: slippery rocks, yawning into deep fis-
sures, or so round and smooth as to render firm footing
impossible, constituted the only road. Yet this has been,
for four thousand years, the highway between Jerusalem
and the western plains that border on the sea. Chariots
never could have boon used here, and it would bo impos-
sible for cavalry to act, or even to advance against a
84 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Warburton
hostile force. The scenery resembled that of the wildest
glens of Scotland, only that here the gray crags were
thickly tufted with aromatic shrubs, and instead of the
pine, the sycamore, the olive, and the palm shaded tho
mountain's side.
We passed by the village of Jeremiah and the " Terebin-
thine Vale." In the last we recognize the scene of David's
combat with Groliah, and its little brook still sparkles hero
as freshly as when he picked thence pebbles to smite the
Philistine. Generally speaking the river-beds were as dry
as the path we trod, and this was the only stream but one
that I saw between Jaffa and the Jordan. A large cara-
van was assembled on its banks, with all its picturesque
variety of laden camels, mules with gay trappings, moun-
tain cavaliers with turban and embroidered vests, veiled
women on donkeys, half-naked Arabs with long spears,
dwellers in cities with dark kaftan or furred pelisse. All,
however various their nation, profession, or appearance,
were eagerly quaffing the precious stream or waiting under
" the shadow of a high rock" for the caravan to proceed.
The hills became more and more precipitous as we ap-
proached Jerusalem ; most of them were of a conical form,
and terraced to their summit. Yet on these steep acclivi-
ties the strenuous labor of the Israelite had formerly grown
corn, wine, and oil ; and, on the terraces that remained
uninjured, the few present inhabitants still plant wheat,
and vineyards, and olive-groves. There was no appearance
of water, except the inference that might bo drawn of
wells within the few villages that hung on the mountain's
side.
The pathway continued as rough as ever, while wo
wound through the rocky defiles leading to the upper
plains ; but it was much more frequented, and I had joined
a large and various company for the sake of listening to
Warbcrton] JERUSALEM. THE HOLY CITY. 85
their talk about the city that now absorbed every other
interest. At each acclivity we surmounted we were told
that the next would reveal to us the object of our destina-
tion ; and at length, as we emerged upon a wide and sterile
plain, the leading pilgrims sank upon their knees, the
most contagious shout of enthusiasm 1 ever heard burst
from each traveller, and every man of that largo company
— Arab, Italian, Greek, and Englishman — exclaimed, each
in his own tongue, "El Khuds!" " Gerusalemma !" "Hi-
giopolis!" " The Holy City !"
It was, indeed, Jerusalem ; and had the Holy City risen
before us in its palmiest days of magnificence and glory, it
could not have created deeper emotion, or been gazed at
more earnestly and with intenser interest. . . .
Apart from all associations, the first view of Jerusalem
is a most striking one. A brilliant and uncheckered sun-
shine has something mournful in it when all that it shines
upon is utterly desolate and drear. Not a tree or green
spot is visible ; no sign of life breaks the solemn silence ;
no smile of nature's gladness ever varies the stern scenery
around. The flaming, monotonous sunshine above, and the
pale, distorted, rocky wastes beneath realize but too faith-
fully the prophetic picture, "Thy sky shall be brass and
thy land shall be iron." To the right and left, as far as
tho eye can reach, vague undulations of colorless rocks
extend to tho horizon. A broken and desolate plain in
front is bounded by a wavy, battlemented wall, over which
towers frown, and minarets peer, and mosque domes swell,
intermingled with church turrets and an indistinguishable
mass of terraced roofs. High over the city, to tho left,
rises the Mount of Olives ; and tho distant hills of Moab,
almost mingling with tho sky, afford a background to tho
striking picture. . . ,
I had always pictured to myself Jerusalem as standing
8
86 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Warburton
upon lofty hills and visible from afar. It is, on the con-
trary, on the edge of the wide platform by which we ap-
proached from Jaffa, and is commanded by the Mount of
Olives, the Hill of Scopas, and other eminences, from
which it is divided by the deep and narrow ravines called
the Valley of Jehosaphat and the Yale of Hinnom.
These ravines meet in the form of a Y, the lower part of
which describes the precipitous glen through which the
brook Kedron flows in winter to the Dead Sea.
The site of the city is in itself unique. Selected origi-
nally from the strength of its position only, it offers none
of the features usually to be found surrounding the me-
tropolis of a powerful people. No river nor any stream
flows by it ; no fertility surrounds it ; no commerce seems
able to approach its walls ; no thoroughfare of nations
finds it in the way. It seems to stand apart from the
world, exempt from its passions, its ambitions, and even its
prosperity. Like the high-priest who once ministered in
its temple, it stands solitary and removed from all secular
influences, and receives only those who come to worship at
its mysteries. All the other cities of the earth are fre-
quented by votaries of gain, science, luxury, or glory;
Zion offers 'only privations to the pilgrim's body, solemn
reflections for his thoughts, awe for his soul ; her palaces
are ruins, her hostels are dreary convents, her chief boast
and triumph is a Tomb.
[Entering Jerusalem, our traveller found quarters for the night in
the Latin convent of the Terra Santa, the richest and most influential
in Palestine. He afterwards removed to a private house, under a host
whom he humorously depicts.]
The greater part of the time 1 passed at Jerusalem I
was as solitary as in the desert. In the cool of the evening
1 used to ride up the Mount of Olives, or explore the
Warbubton] JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY. 87
glens and caverns, once the refuge places of the Prophets,
now the resort of robbers and outlaws. If I had been
reconnoitring for Titus I could not have made myself
more familiar with every feature of the doomed city than
solitude and curiosity conspired to make me during those
frequent rambles. Towards noon I was driven by the heat
to take shelter in my apartments, which I shall describe,
as affording a specimen of the houses of Jerusalem. I
passed only one night in the dreary hospice of the Terra
Santa, and the next evening found myself, on my return
from a distant ride, the tenant of Abou Habib, in the Via
Dolorosa.
Ho was a portly old Christian, very like Lablache in the
jrarb of Figaro, but that a Ion": robe of brown silk envel-
oped his person, and a capacious turban his broad brow.
He could speak but few words of Italian, and the gesticu-
lations with which ho endeavored to express some difficult
emotion in Arabic were irresistibly ludicrous. He piqued
himself on his cookery, and was continually inventing
some new abomination of grease and rice to tempt my
appetite. There was a hospitality about the old fellow,
notwithstanding his reputed avaricious propensities, that
prevented me from ever scrutinizing his bills. If he made
the most of his guests in one respect, he also did it in
every other.
My servant was quite superseded in the culinary depart-
ment. As soon as I rose in the morning it was Abou
Habib who presented my coffee ; when I came in from
riding, pipe and coffee were handed by Abou Habib ; and
in a few moments rissoles in vine-leaves, or pieces of pilan
in cucumbers, with a broiled fowl and a flask of Vino d'Oro,
were presented by Abou Habib. If I clapped my hands
throughout the day, the same portly figure presented
itself; if I fell asleep on the divan, I found him fanning
88 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Wakburtok
away the flies; at dinner he was at once cook and butler;
in the evening he was killing chickens while he whistled a
tune, or plucking them as he chanted some unintelligible
old song ; he even climbed the housetop to offer my pipe,
and at length actually took to grooming my horses.
The entrance to this house of hospitality was by a
narrow flight of stone steps leading out of the Via Dolo-
rosa ; a door opened thence into a court-yard, where my
horses were stabled in an enclosure and picketed to the
wall by the fetlock ; a corridor, in which there were doors
leading to a kitchen on one side and sleeping-rooms on the
other, connected this outer with an inner court, shaded by
a few lemon- and cypress-trees. In this were my apart-
ments, consisting of a sleeping-room and a large wains-
coted chamber, surrounded with a divan and diversified
with a variety of shelves, presses, and cupboards. Oppo-
site were the sleeping-apartments of my host, his buxom
wife, and her blooming sister. These women seemed to
lead a life of perfect idleness, for the indefatigable Abou
Hahib was all in all, and monopolized all the offices of
the establishment, even to dressing, in more senses than
one, a young son of his who was the plague of the
household.
My host was civil and humble, even to servility ; but the
female members of his family appeared to be as free from
constraint as they were from forwardness. During a
short but severe illness they attended me with the greatest
kindness, and afterwards gave me lessons in Arabic, and
folding turbans, and other Eastern accomplishments. . . .
It was pleasant, when evening fell, as I lay on the divan
and looked upon the clear, bright sky, against which the
cypresses trembled in the night breeze, to hear the low,
sweet, plaintive voices in which these Eastern women sang
the songs of their historic land. Hebron was their native
Warburton] JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY. 89
place, and they were Christians, though they had never
heard of the Bible, but the name of the Koran was
familiar to them.
Their dress in the house consisted of a close-fitting tunic,
buttoned from beneath the bosom for some distance down,
thence open to allow free motion to their limbs, that were
clothed with very full, loose trousers, tied at the ankle,
and falling over the slippered foot. The bosom was gen-
erally open, or but partly enclosed by the crape garment
within; a light turban or a handkerchief of Damascus silk
covered the head, from which the rich hair flowed free, or
was plaited into two long braids. In the streets the
Christian women wear the yashmak, or veil, across the
face, as the Moslems do, but in the house it is entirely laid
aside. The women of all religions pass much of their timo
on the house-tops, peeping through the circular tiles that
are built into a wall so as to admit the air yet conceal the
inhabitants of each roof.
[From this digression concerning private life in Jerusalem we return
to our traveller's description of the city.]
I rode forth to make a circuit of the city, "to walk
round about her and mark well her battlements." Sadly
has all changed since this proud challenge was spoken,
yet the walls are still towering and imposing in their
effect. They vary in height from twenty to sixty feet,
according to the undulations of the ground, and are every-
where in good repair. The columns and architraves, as
old at least as the Roman-conquered city, that are worked
into these walls instead of ruder stones, bear eloquent tes-
timony to the different nature of their predecessors. A
bridle-path leads close to their base all round; the valleys
of Jlinnom and Jehosaphat yawn suddenly beneath them
on the west, south, and north, separating them from
8*
90 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Warburton
Mount Gihon, the Hill of Evil Counsel, and the Mount of
Olives.
These hills are utterly barren, and lonely as fear can
make them. Though within gunshot of the city, robberies
are here committed with impunity, and few people venture
to leave the walls without being well armed and attended.
The deep gloom of the Yalley of Hinnom ; the sterility of
all around ; the silence and desolation so intense, yet so
close to the city ; the sort of memory with which I could
trace each almost familiar spot, from the Tower of Hippi-
cus to the Hill of Scopas, made this the most interesting
excursion I ever undertook. Now we look down upon the
Pool and Valley of Gihon from the summit of Mount Zion ;
now upon the Vale of Hinnom, with the Pool of Siloam,
and Aceldama beyond the brook ; now over Mount Moriah,
with the Valley of Jehosaphat beneath, and the village of
Siloam on the opposite side, scattered along the banks where
Kedron used to flow. Then, passing through the Turkish
cemetery and over the brook Kedron, we come to the ven-
erable garden of Gethsemane, in which, say the legends,
still stand the olive-trees that sheltered Christ.
This garden is only a small grove, occupying perhaps
two acres of ground, but it is one of the best authenticated
scenes of interest about Jerusalem. From it a steep and
rocky path leads to the three summits of the Mount of
Olives, on the loftiest of which stands the Church of the
Ascension. An Armenian priest admitted me into the
sacred enclosure, motioned to a little monk to lead about
my horse, and led the way in silence to the roof of the
church. From hence is the most intei*esting, if not the
most striking, view in the world.
From such a summit might the great leader of the
people have viewed the land, which was to be the reward
of their desert wanderings. From it is laid bare every
Warburton] JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY. 91
fibre of the great heart of Palestine. The atmosphere is
like a crystal lens, and every object in the Holy City is as
clear as if it lay within a few yards, instead of a mile's
distance. Each battlement upon those war-worn walls,
each wild flower that clusters over them ; the dogs prowl-
ing about the waste places among the ruins and cactus
and cypress ; the turbaned citizen slowly moving in the
streets; all these are recognizable almost as clearly as the
prominent features of the city.
The eminence called Mount Moriah lies nearest to our
view, just above the narrow Valley of Jehosaphat. The
city wall passes over the centre of it, embracing a wide
enclosure, studded with cypresses and cedars, in the centre
of which stands the magnificent Mosque of Omar. This is
of a very light, fantastic architecture, bristling with points,
and little spires, and minarets, many of which have gilded
crescents that flash and gleam in the sunshine ; while the
various groups of Moslems, seated on bright carpets, or
slowly wandering among the groves, give life and anima-
tion to the scene.
The mosque occupies the site of the Temple, and is held
holy by the Moslem as the place where Abraham offered
Isaac to be a sacrifice. To the left of the mosque en-
closure within the walls is a space covered with rubbish
and jungles of the prickly pear ; then part of the Hill of
Zion, and David's Tower. To the right of the enclosure
is the Pool of Bethesda, beyond which St. Stephen's Gate
affords entrance to the Via Dolorosa, a steep and wind-
ing street, along which Christ bore the Cross in his ascent
to Calvary. To the right of the street, and towards the
north, stands the hill of Acra, on which Salem, the most
ancient part of the city, was built, they say, by Melchise-
dek. This hill is enclosed by the walls of the modern
town ; but the hill of Bezetha lies yet farther to tho
92 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Warburton
right, and was enclosed within the walls that the Komans
stormed. Beyond Bezetha stands the Hill of Scopas, where-
from Titus gazed upon Jerusalem the day before its destruc-
tion, and wept for the sake of the beautiful city. . . .
Beneath us is the Garden of Gethsemane, the Valley of
ITinnom with its Tophet, and the Vale of Jehosaphat with
its brook Kedron, which meets the waters of Siloam at
the Well of Job. The Tombs of the Kings of Nehemiah,
of Absalom, and of the Judges, lie before us ; the caves
of the Prophets everywhere pierce the rocks, that have
so often resounded to the war-cry of the Chaldean, tho
Eoman, the Saracen, and the Crusader. Beyond the city
spreads the Vale of Bephaim, with Bethlehem in the dis-
tance ; every rock, and hill, and valley that is visible bears
some name that has rung in history. And then the utter
desolation that everywhere prevails, — as if it was all over
with that land, and the "rocks had indeed fallen, and tho
hills indeed had covered" the mighty, the beautiful, and
the brave, who once dwelt there in prosperity and peace.
No flocks, no husbandmen, nor any living thing is there,
except a group of timid travellers — turbaned figures, and
veiled women, and a file of camels — winding along tho
precipitous pathway under the shadow of the palm-tree.
Descending from the Mount of Olives, I re-entered the
city by St. Stephen's Gate, where Turkish soldiers con-
stantly keep guard ; turning to the left, I visited the Pool
of Bethesda, and then wandered slowly over the Via Dolo-
rosa, in which is pointed out each spot where the Saviour
fell under the burden of the Cross, as he bore it to Calvary
along this steep and rugged way.
In after-days I impatiently traversed the squalid city,
with a monk for my guide, in search of its various localities
of traditionary sanctity ; but I will not ask the reader to
stoop to such a labor. My monkish cicerone pointed out
Warburton] JERUSALEM, THE HOLY CITY.' 93
to me where Dives lived, where Lazarus lay, where the
cock crowed or roosted that warned Peter of his crime,
and even where the blessed Virgin used to wash her son's
linen. It is difficult to speak of such things gravely, and
yet I would not have one light feeling or expression inter-
mingled with the solemn subjects of which this chapter
attempts to treat. . . .
The character of the city within corresponds with that
of the country without. Most of it is very solitary and
silent ; echo only answers to your horse's tread ; and fre-
quent waste places, among which the wild dog prowls, con-
vey an indescribable impression of desolation. It is not
those waste places alone that give such an air of loneliness
to the city, but many of the streets themselves, dark, dull,
and mournful-looking, seem as if the Templars' armed
tread was the last to which they had resounded. The
bazaars and places of business are confined to one small
quarter of the city ; everywhere else you generally find
yourself alone. No one is even there to point out your
way ; and you come unexpectedly upon the Pool of Be-
thesda, or wander among the vaulted ruins of the Hospi-
tallers' courts, without knowing it.
The remains of the ancient city that meet your eye are
singularly few ; here and there a column is let into the
wall, or you find that the massive and uneven pavement is
of costly marble ; but, except the Pools of Hezekiah and
Bethesda, the Tower of Hippicus, and some few other
remains, preserved on account of their utility, there is
little of art to connect the memory with the past.
The chief place of interest in Jerusalem is the Holy Sep-
ulchre, whoso site I believe to be as real as the panorama
that the priests have gathered round it must needs be
false. You descend, by a narrow lane and a flight of steps,
into a small enclosure, where a guard of Turkish soldiers is
94 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Warburton
stationed to keep peace among the Christians. After pay-
ing tribute to this infidel police, you enter into a large cir-
cular hall, supported by a colonnade of eighteen pillars,
and surrounded by a large dome, in the centre of which is
a pavilion containing the Holy Sepulchre. The whole of
this church has been so frequently described that I shall
only mention that within its walls are collected a panorama
of all the events that took place at the crucifixion ; the
place where Christ was scourged ; the hole in the rock
where the Cross stood ; the fissure where the rock was rent
in twain; the place where the soldiers cast lots for tho
garments ; the stone whereon the body was anointed ; and,
lastly, the grave wherein it was laid.
[This monkish topography has found few believers, the monks them-
selves, of whom there are at least a thousand in Palestine, being in
greater part, if not wholly, "utterly illiterate and unenlightened,"
while those of different sects manifest towards each other a spirit of
hostility the very reverse of Christ-like.]
The warehouse of relics and pilgrim ornaments at the
Latin convent is furnished with such a stock as would seem
inexhaustible, were it not that these articles are actually a
subject of extensive merchandise in Europe, and, like paper
currency, acquire all their value by passing through the
hands of those spiritual dealers. There are about seven
hundred persons employed at Bethlehem in the manufac-
ture of beads, crosses, mother-of-pearl carvings, etc. The
monks receive them as raw material ; but having been
rubbed on the Sepulchre, and having had mass paid over
them, they assume the value that makes them sought for
by the devotees of the south of Europe. . . .
The present population [of Jerusalem] of about twelve
thousand souls [now said to be about twenty-five thou-
sand] find a very scanty subsistence, and havo no com-
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Prime] BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN. 05
mcrco whatever to assist them. Alms and pilgrims are
the principal, if not the only sources of wealth. The
Jews, Latins, and Greeks are entirely dependent on such
resources.
BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN.
WILLIAM C. PRIME.
From " Tent Life in the Holy Land," copyright, 1857, by Harper & Bros.
[The Prime brothers have all been earnest and intelligent travellers.
They are, or were, three in number, — Rev. Samuel Irenieus Prime,
editor of the New York Observer, Rev. Edward D. G. Prime, also an
editor and proprietor of the above-named paper, and William Cooper
Prime, a lawyer and the author of " Boat-Life in Egypt and Nubia"
and "Tent-Life in the Holy Land," from the latter of which the
present selection is made. "We have chosen from his interesting
work a description of Baalbec, one of the most remarkable ruins
the world possesses.]
From Sulghiyeh to Baalbec the road was picturesque
and wild. Sometimes we went along precipitous hill-sides,
looking down a thousand feet into the ravines, through
which loud brawling streams went swiftly towards the
Mediterranean, and at others we traced the course of such
streams with the hills far above us.
We lunched in a deep, warm, sunny valley, cooling our
wine with snow that we had brought from the high ridge
of the mountain as we crossed it, such were the changes
of climate from hour to hour. Our route lay through the
mountains of the Anti-Lebanon range, from which we at
length emerged on the great plain that lies between it and
the true Lebanon, whose lofty and grand hills, snow-
capped and magnificent, now towered in the western sky.
As we came out on the plain the grand ruins of Baalbec
96 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Prime
were visible before us, and we rode on at a rapid pace
towards them.
If all the ruins of ancient Eome that are in and around
the modern city were gathered together in one group, they
would not equal the extent of the ruins of Baalbec. The
remark may seem strange, or even extravagant, but I be
lieve it to be literally true. And yet a mystery hangs
about these mighty relics which time will never unfold.
Who laid up these vast walls, who carved these stately
columns, who walked these halls and worshipped in these
temples? is almost as dark a question as who built the
pyramids of Sakkara ? or who slept in the sarcophagus of
Cheops? Standing in the Temple of the Sun, and looking
up to the sky through its shattered roof, I asked the ques-
tion of the blue air that knows so many mysteries, and
received the answer of the sky.
Somewhere beyond or this side of the blue — somewhere
there are immortals who know it all, whose knees once
pressed these mai'ble floors with the devotion of worship-
pers, whose voices once echoed in these arches in hymns
of praise. Altars and worshippers are dust, and the sun,
day by day, looks down through the broken roof on the
deserted and ruinous fane that they built to his worship,
and laughs with his soft summer laugh at the memory of
their wind-scattered incense.
And there to-day it seems not strange that men should
worship the sun, who, with the same smile, looks down on
the ruined temple as he looked down on the temple-builders
thousands of years ago.
There is something in the heart of man that worships
the immutable more than the invisible. The creature of
the day reaches out his arms and longs to embrace that
which was born a thousand years ago, and adores that
which will last a thousand years to come. But that which
Prime] BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN. 97
changes not as the years change; that which stands up
firm above the shifting sands of the desert of life ; that
which looks down from a clear sky beyond driving mists ;
he bows down before that, and of that he begs immor-
tality. For, after all, the innate religion of the human
heart, of which so much is written and so much said,
is the desire for eternity of existence, which men in a
state of nature but guess at and dimly understand. It
was not so strange that the men of old times worshipped
the sun and stars.
I, too, half worshipped the sky that night, as I sat in
my tent-door, under the lofty columns of the Temple of
the Sun.
The modern village of Baalbec is situated on the north
and east of the great temples, on the level of the plain,
above which the latter are elevated. The platform of the
temples, which I shall hereafter describe, is bounded on
the east by the eastern colonnades of the great Temple of
the Sun, which runs along the edge of it, and of which
many of the columns and the carved ceiling are now fallen
and lying in fragments below, forming an immense mass
of ruin. Outside of these our tents were pitched ; I had
intended to place them in the temple.
As we approached the vast pile and entered the old
Saracen wall which surrounded it, I paused in silent won-
derment before the ruins. We went in silence around
the sustaining wall of the platform on which the ruins
stand, looking up at the massive temples that were piled
on it. On the north side I found a dark archway, and we
all rode into it. It was a long cavern in the platform,
built of immense stones, arched overhead ; and as we rodo
into it two or three hundred feet the busts of men looked
down on us from the dimly lighted vaults, as if in wonder
at this strange entrance of horsemen to their silent abodes.
III. — K (J 9
98 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Prime
Eeturning, we continued round the temple, taking tho
wall of some fellah's garden at a flying leap on the north-
west corner, and so coming down by the other side, where
we saw and were astounded by the great stones which
have been so frequently described. I had been long
familiar with Egyptian grandeur, but I confessed at once
that Egypt knew nothing to compare with these. Eeturn-
ing at length to the place at which we had entered tho
village, I attempted to mount the fallen columns and
massive stones, which lay heaped up on the eastern side of
the enclosure, and gain access to the temple platform itself.
In this I succeeded. The horse Mohammed would go into
the second-story window of a New York house if I rode
him o,t it seriously. He leaped from stone to stone like a
cat, and climbed up forty feet of debris that I could with
great difficulty have accomplished myself. I found a
better path down, but not practicable for the loaded mules,
and accordingly 1 directed the men to pitch the tents
under the eastern colonnade of the great temple.
Certainly I could not have desired a spot more pic-
turesque. A stream of clear water ran close behind us,
and when the moon rose, late at night, and shone on the
grand columns and its gray old walls, the scene was suffi-
ciently grand.
1 shall not attempt to sketch the supposed history of
Heliopolis. That it was a city of early Phoenician origin
I think may bo taken for granted, from the name Baalbec,
and that it was greatly beautified in the days of the Eoman
emperors may be inferred from the present magnificent
ruins, that are evidently of that period. All this we may
safely affirm, but more than this must be conjectured.
If the reader will bear with me a little, I will endeavor
to give him such a description of the ruins as will enable
him to form some idea of their magnitude, and conjecture
Prime] BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN. 99
almost as well as those who have visited them the name
and character of their founders.
The site of these ruins was originally a plain, extending
miles to the north and to the south. They are situated a
half-mile from the eastern side of the valley. On this
plain a platform has been elevated by building a sustain-
ing wall of immense stone, and arched galleries or pas-
sages, as well as arched chambers, on which earth has
been heaped and levelled. The platform thus erected is
of irregular shape, one part in the main being a largo
rectangular parcel, and another hexagonal, extending
northeastward from the first, and yet another rectangular
piece against this. The height of the upper level of the
platform from the plain may be thirty feet, sufficient to
command a view limited only by the distant mountains of
Lebanon.
On this platform wero erected numerous splendid tem-
ples, courts, chapels, altars, and places of study and of
prayer. In the days of its glory it can hardly bo doubted
that it was, with one exception, the most magnificent
temple in the world. Not, indeed, so massive, grand, and
imposing as Karnak, but in its airy beauty, the richness
of its Corinthian columns, the splendor of its high cornices
and friezes, and the light, heaven-aspiring character of all
its architecture, it must have been the most brilliant and
beautiful of all the places of heathen worship.
Commencing our view with the outside of the platform
wall, at the southwest corner, we find the great stones
which form the most celebrated feature of Baalbec.
Of these there are just twenty, and, as I have seen
hitherto no full and accurate account of these stones,
although many imperfect and inaccurate have been pub-
lished, I shall not apologize for stopping to describe them.
Though they arc but twenty very rough stones, they
100 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Prime
are, nevertheless, among the most interesting relics of
antiquity in the world.
They are in two rows, one on the south side of the great
platform and the other on the west. Commencing with
the row on the west side, and going southward, I found
ten stones, measuring in order as follows (the first one is
comparatively small, and I have lost the measurement) :
the next, 30 feet, then 31, 30.6, 30.6, 32, 30.6, 30, 32.4, 30.6.
Each stone is thirteen feet high and ten feet six inches
thick. The thickness varies an inch or two.
This wall stands alone, and has never been carried up.
There is no structure on it, but the stones are gray and
time-worn. A door-way has been cut through one of
these stones, which admitted me to the space between it
and the sustaining wall of the platform, which is built of
levelled stone. This space is grass-grown and level, and
from it I climbed to the top of the wall of large stones.
They were smoothly cut, fitting exactly against each other,
but at the point of junction of each two stones they were
notched in the front in a peculiar manner, and for pur-
poses which I shall hereafter mention. The notch was
about four feet long up and down the line of junction,
about a foot wide and eight inches deep at the top, running
to a point, and out to the edge of the stones at the bottom
of the notch.
This row of stones continues to the southwest corner of
the platform, which, by a rough wall, is projected so as to
rest on the corner-stone and the next one to it, and on
these a high sustaining wall is built. The height on this
corner of the whole platform must be about forty feet.
The corner-stone in continuation of this wall is of the same
class as the others, but not so large. It is about thirteen
feet each way. But after turning the corner, we find that
this stone projects about two feet beyond the line of the
Prime] BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN. \Q\
wall above it, and is bevelled or worked off to the face of
that wall. Then follow six stones, precisely similar to
those we have described, whose entire length is one hun-
dred and eighty-nine feet. But these also project as does
the corner-stone, and are worked off from about four feet
below their upper sides to the line of the wall above it,
instead of having a perpendicular face with the peculiar
notches I have described in the others.
But the wall above these last six stones is the wonder of
Baalbec and the world. It consists of three stones, exactly
covering the six below them. Their length is, therefore,
one hundred and eighty-nine feet, and I measured them
three times without being able to detect a difference in
them, though there may be an inch or two as described by
others. The height of these stones, on the face, is thirteen
feet, just that of the stones on which they rest, and the
depth must be guessed at. In the plans of Casas, which
I have before me, it is given at sixteen feet four inches
(French, of course), and it may be fairly estimated at
fifteen feet.
It is true that on these stones the wall of the platform
is continued up. But that wall has manifestly nothing to
do with the original design of the layers of this cyclopean
structure. There is nothing else in or around Baalbec
which bears any relation or resemblance to these stones, or
indicates the existence of the same grandeur of design and
powei of execution.
I say there is nothing like it in or around Baalbec. I am
wrong. In the quarry, a half-mile from here, lies a stone
sixty-eight feet some inche's long, seventeen feet wide, and
fourteen feet six inches in thickness. The end of this has
not been trimmed off. This done, would reduce it probably
to the average length of the three now in position.
There can be no doubt, it seems to me, that this stone
9*
102 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Prime
was to be placed in position on the wall at the western
side, in continuation of the three on the south, connected
with them by a corner-stone. The notches I have spoken
of were the commencement of the working down of the
upper part of these stones, which were left solid until the
large stones were in position on them, when they were to
be sloped up to them, as I have described those under tho
three great stones.
But I apprehend no one can see any indication that tho
other works at Baalbec are of the same age or by the same
persons with these gigantic rocks. The contrast between
them and the Roman wall above is greater than between
the Roman and the later Saracen walls laid upon them
when Baalbec was made a fortress.
Who, then, built these two walls ? Who cut these twenty
stones, sole memorials of a work which was gigantic in its
design beyond any other work on the face of the earth, but
abandoned in its very commencement ?
I have no doubt that they are of an age long preceding
the Roman Empire, an age of giant thoughts, such as
planned the Pyramids, or the mighty columns and architec-
ture of Karnak. The Romans found them here, the evi-
dence of an unknown race and a forgotten power, and on
them built their gorgeous temples. Storms beat on the
airy structures of the Romans, and they stood firm and
bright in the succeeding sunshine. But earthquakes came
and shook them down, and the works of the giants laughed
at the earthquakes, and stood firm while shattered capitals
and architraves were rained down on and around them.
In building their platform the Romans, or whoever con-
tinued the works at Baalbec, used the south wall, but
preferred not to use the western, leaving it exposed, and,
apparently, useless, running their wall about twenty feet
inside of it. This wall is of bevelled stone, and may be of
Trime] BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN. 103
more ancient date than the Eoman temples. Of this it is
impossible, at present, to affirm anything. I confess that
my subsequent examination of the galleries and chambers
under the platform led mo to think that the immediate
predecessors of the Eomans were men of intermediate
power, more like the hewers of the twenty stones, but not
nearly so great in their ideas.
On the hightest part of the platform, in the southwest
corner of it, stood a grand temple, of which only six
columns, supporting part of the architrave, now remain.
Those columns are each seven feet six inches in diameter
at the base, and are alone left of seventy that formed the
peristyle of a temple of the most elegant Corinthian style.
They are visible throughout the extent of the plain of
Baalbec, over which the temple must have shown with
great brilliancy. The floor of the temple appears to have
been terraced up towards the south side, as it ascends in
that direction, and the pavement remains. It is a remark-
able fact that, under the temple, the platform has, so far as
now known, no chambers or galleries. An excavation
would, doubtless, open interesting rooms. I tried various
methods of obtaining access, but all in vain, though I am
satisfied that such exist, and, doubtless, judging from such
as I found elsewhere, of great splendor.
In front of this temple was a large quadrangular court,
surrounded by exquisite little semicircular temples, all
gorgeously carved in florid Corinthian, and each having
five dead windows or recesses for statues, and small semi-
circular seats or niches under them. The latter arc
strangely and beautifully carved ; one has an eagle among
stars forming the top, another a winged globe, many have
scallop-shells, beautifully cut.
This quadrangle was filled with various buildings, of
which the ruins lie in it. It opens into a hexagonal court
104 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Trime
also surrounded with niches for statues, and this into a
grand portico, flanked by two square towers, of which the
ancient form is totally lost by the Saracen changes. I pre-
sume that the grand steps to the temple led up from the
plain here, but they are now gone, nor is there any trace
of them.
Returning to the great temple, and descending to a lower
level of the platform, on the east, we came to the great
Temple of the Sun, the walls of which are still standing.
It had a peristyle of thirty-six columns, plain shafts with
elegant Corinthian capitals, and four inner columns fluted,
making forty in all. These are mostly fallen and broken
to pieces, but on the northwest side nine remain standing,
and support the ceiling of the peristyle. This ceiling is
composed of immense stones, elaborately carved in com-
partments, with fruits, flowers, and busts of gods and god-
desses.
Entering the temple by a hole in the Saracen wall that
closes it, we find a grand door-way which was square, the
top being trilithic, two stones resting on the pilasters or
side posts, the middle one keyed in between these. This
middle stone has been shaken from its position, and the
outer two, opening a little, have let it slip down, but it is
caught by the width of its upper part, and thus hangs,
threatening destruction to whoever passes under it. On
the under side of this stone is carved an eagle, whose wings,
or the tips of them, are left on the other stones. The tips
touch two cupids, one of which scaled off when the eagle
fell. The other was battered by the early Christians,
whose vandalish propensities are so noticeable in Egyptian
temples. The eagle's bill holds a wreath and bundle of
flowers. Within, the temple is battered and bruised, and
defaced with the names of hundreds of modern travellers.
Still it is gorgeous, and was glorious. The carving of the
Prime] BAALBEC, THE CITY OF THE SUN. 105
oak-leaves and acorns, of the delicate bead-work, and of the
intricate and innumerable patterns and ornaments, sur-
passes all the work in stone that I have seen elsewhere.
Wreaths, festoons, and garlands are wrought all over the
walls with the utmost skill and taste.
On the east side of this temple there are yet standing
four of the columns which support a very perfect speci-
men of the frieze, but no description can convey an idea
of the elaborate nature of it. Bulls' and lions' heads alter-
nate with oak-leaves and grapes, and various other pat-
terns.
The top of this architrave is disfigured by a rude stone
wall, piled on it by the Saracens, the object of which I am
at a loss to guess at.
There are many other ruins of buildings on the great
platform and connected with it, but I pass from them to
the vaults below. I postponed an examination of these
until the third day of our visit, having devoted a part of
the previous day to finding an entrance under the great
temple, which I have already stated was without result.
There are three great galleries under the platform. Two
running from north to south, and one connecting the two.
Besides these, there are a large number of chambers, all
built in the same massive style. The lower rows of stones
are very large, — much larger than anything seen in the
Roman structures above-ground. The arches are, in many
cases, evidently built on a plan quite different from that
which was adopted in laying these stones.
The only room of special beauty to which I obtained
access appeared never to have been visited before by any
traveller. Walking up the eastern gallery, I observed a sort
of window, into which I mounted by Whitely's shoulders.
It was all dark. I lighted a piece of paper with a match
and threw it in. It fell ten feet, and showed mo a hard
106 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Taylor
floor for an instant, on which I jumped, without stopping
to calculate how I should get back again.
I lit a candle, and found on the ground a considerable
quantity of straws, blown in through the hole at which I
had entered. Gathering these together, I called Whitely
and Moreright to come in. They came as I had, helping
each other. Then I touched my candle to the pile and it
flashed up brilliantly, long enough to show us a lofty square
chamber with arched ceiling elaborately carved in the style
of the ceiling of the peristyle of the Temple of the Sun.
There were places for statues on the side-walls, and a door-
way that once opened to the outer ground, but now closed
with large stone, probably in Saracen times. Thus much
I saw and the fire vanished. We helped each other out,
and walked up and down these vast subterranean halls for
nearly two hours before we were called away.
The eastern gallery opened up at its extremity directly
into the platform near the smaller temple, and appears to
have been used for processions. Frequent busts appear in
the key-stones of the arch, but all of them are so much
defaced as to be unrecognizable.
I have not pretended to give a full account of the Roman
ruins in Baalbec. Enough is accomplished if I have given
the reader a general idea of their grandeur and extent.
DAMASCUS, THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT.
BAYARD TAYLOR.
[Few travellers have been so successful in eliciting the poetry from
nature, and investing the beauties of scenery with a charm derived from
the mind of the observer, as Bayard Taylor, one of the most favorite
of modern travellers. Aside from his notable works of European
Taylor] DAMASCUS, THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT. 107
travel, he made journeys of exploration in Africa and Asia, the story
of which is told in three volumes, of which we have here to do with
the second, "The Lands of the Saracen; or, Pictures of Palestine,
Asia Minor, Sicily, and Spain." From this work we select an account
of his visit to Damascus, and of the famous approach to that most
ancient of Oriental cities.]
In the morning we left the baggage to take care of
itself and rode on to Damascus as fast as our tired horses
could carry us. The plain, at first barren and stony, be-
came enlivened with vineyards and fields of wheat as we
advanced. Arabs were everywhere at work, ploughing
and directing the watercourses. The belt of living green,
the bower in which the great city, the Queen of the Orient,
hides her beauty, drew nearer and nearer, stretching out
a crescent of foliage for miles on either hand that gradually
narrowed and received us into its cool and fragrant heart.
We sank into a sea of olive-, pomegranate-, orange-, plum-,
apricot-, walnut-, and plane-trees, and were lost. The sun
sparkled in the rolling surface above ; but we swam through
the green depths below his reach, and thus, drifted on
through miles of shade, entered the city. . . .
Damascus is considered by many travellers as the best
remaining type of an Oriental city. Constantinople is
semi-European ; Cairo is fast becoming so ; but Damascus,
away from the highways of commerce, seated alone be-
tween the Lebanon and the Syrian Desert, still retains, in
its outward aspect and in the character of its inhabitants,
all the pride and fancy and fanaticism of the times of the
Caliphs. With this judgment, in general terms, I agree ;
but not to its ascendency in every respect over Cairo.
True, when you behold Damascus from the Salahiyeh,
the last slope of the Anti-Lebanon, it is the realization of
all that you have dreamed of Oriental splendor, — the world
has no picture moro dazzling. It is Beauty carried to the-
108 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Taylor
Sublime, as I have felt when overlooking some boundless
forest of palms within the tropics. From the hill, whoso
ridges heave behind you till in the south they rise to the
snowy head of Mount Hermon, the great Syrian plain
stretches away to the Euphrates, broken at distances of
ten and fifteen miles by two detached mountain-chains.
In a terrible gorge at your side the river Barrada, the
ancient Pharpar, forces its way to the plain, and its waters,
divided into twelve different channels, make all between
you and those blue island hills of the desert one great
garden, the boundaries of which your vision can barely
distinguish. Its longest diameter cannot be less than
twenty miles. You look down upon a world of foliage,
and fruit, and blossoms, whose hue, by contrast with the
barren mountains and the yellow rim of the desert which
encloses it, seems brighter than all other gardens in the
world. Through its centre, following the course of the
river, lies Damascus; a line of white walls, topped with
domes and towers and tall minarets, winding away for
miles through the green sea. Nothing less than a city of
palaces, whose walls are marble and whose doors are ivory
and pearl, could keep up the enchantment of that distant
view.
We rode on for an hour through the gardens before
entering the gate. The fruit-trees, of whatever variety, —
walnut, olive, apricot, or fig, — were the noblest of their
kind. Eoses and pomegranates in bloom starred the dark
foliage, and the scented jasmine overhung tho walls. But
as we approached the city the view was obscured by high
mud walls on either side of the road, and we only caught
glimpses now and then of the fragrant wilderness.
The first street we entered was low and mean, the houses
of clay. Following this, we came to an uncovered bazaar
with rudo shops on either side protected by mats stretched
Taylor] DAMASCUS, THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT. 109
in front and supported by poles. Here all kinds of com-
mon stuffs and utensils were sold, and the street was filled
with crowds of Fellahs and Desert Arabs. Two largo
sycamores shaded it, and the Seraglio of the Pasha of
Damascus, a plain two-story building, faced the entrance
of tho main bazaar, which branched off into the city.
Wo turned into this, and after passing through several
small bazaars stocked with dried fruits, pipes and pipe-
bowls, groceries, and all the primitive wares of the East,
reached a largo passage covered with a steep wooden roof,
and entirely occupied by venders of silk-stuffs. Out of
this we passed through anothei*, devoted to saddles and
bridles ; then another, full of spices, and at last reached
the grand bazaar, where all the richest stuffs of Europe and
the East were displayed in the shops.
AVe rode slowly along through the cool twilight, crossed
hero and there by long pencils of white light, falling
through apertures in the roof, and illuminating the gay
turbans and silk caftans of the lazy merchants. But out
of this bazaar, at intervals, opened the grand gate of a
khan, giving us a view of its marble court, its fountains,
and the dark arches of its store-rooms ; or the door of a
mosque, with its mosaic floor and pillared corridor. Tho
interminable lines of bazaars, with their atmospheres of
spice and fruit and fragrant tobacco ; the hushed tread of
the slippered crowds; the plash of falling fountains and
the bubbling of innumerable narghilehs ; the picturesque
merchants and their customers, no longer in the big trou-
sers of Egypt, but the long caftans and abas of Syria ; the
absence of Frank faces and drosses, — in all these there was
the true spirit of the Orient, and, so far, we were charmed
with Damascus.
At the hotel in the Soog el-IIarab, or Frank quarter, tho
illusion wan not dissipated. It had once been the homo of
10
110 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Taylor
gome rich merchant. The court into which we were
ushered is paved with marble, with a great stone basin,
surrounded with vases of flowering plants, in the centre.
Two large lemon-trees shade the entrance, and a vine,
climbing to the top of the house, makes a leafy arbor
over the flat roof. The walls of the house are painted in
horizontal bars of blue, white, orange, and white, — a gay
grotesqueness of style which does not offend the eye
under an Eastern sun. On the southern side of the court
is the liwan, an arrangement for which the houses of
Damascus are noted. It is a vaulted apartment twenty
feet high, entirely open towards the court, except a fine-
pointed arch at the top, decorated with encaustic orna-
ments of the most brilliant colors. In front, a tessellated
pavement of marble leads to the doors of the chambers
on each side. Beyond this is a raised floor covered with
matting, and along the farther end a divan, whose piled
cushions are the most tempting trap ever set to catch a
lazy man. Although not naturally indolent, I find it
impossible to resist the fascination of this lounge. Lean-
ing back, cross-legged, against the cushions, with the in-
separable pipe in one's hand, the view of the court, the
water-basin, the flowers and lemon-trees, the servants and
dragomen going back and forth, or smoking their narghilehs
in the shade, — all, framed in the beautiful arched entrance,
is so perfectly Oriental, so true a tableau from the times of
good old Haroun al-Easchid, that one is surprised to find
how many hours have slipped away while he has been
silently enjoying it.
Opposite the liwan is a large room paved with marble,
with a handsome fountain in the centre. It is the finest
in the hotel, and now occupied by Lord Dalkeith and his
friends. Our own room is on the upper floor, and is so
rich in decorations that I have not yet finished the study
Tatlor] DAMASCUS, THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT. HI
of them. Along tho side, looking down on the court, wo
have a mosaic floor of white, red, black, and yellow marble.
Above this is raised a second floor, carpeted and furnished
in European style. The walls for the height of ten feet
are covered with wooden panelling, painted with arabesque
devices in the gayest colors, and along the top there is a
series of Arabic inscriptions in gold. There are a number
of niches or open closets in the walls, whose arched tops are
adorned with pendant wooden ornaments resembling stalac-
tites, and at the corners of the room the heavy gilded and
painted cornice drops into similar grotesque incrustations.
A space of bare white wall intervenes between this cornice
and the ceiling, which is formed of slim poplar logs, laid
side by side, and so covered with paint and with scales and
stripes and net-work devices in gold and silver, that one
would take them to be clothed with the skins of the magic
serpents that guard the Valley of Diamonds. My most
satisfactory remembrance of Damascus will be this room.
My walks through the city have been almost wholly
confined to the bazaars, which are of immense extent.
One can walk for many miles without going beyond the
cover of their peaked wooden roofs, and in all this round
will find no two precisely alike. One is devoted entirely
to soap, another to tobacco, through which you cough and
sneeze your way to the bazaar of spices, and delightedly
inhale its perfumed air. Then there is the bazaar of
sweetmeats ; of vegetables ; of red slippers ; of shawls and
caftans ; of bakers and ovens ; of wooden ware ; of jewelry,
— a great stone building, covered with vaulted passages ;
of Aleppo silks ; of Baghdad carpets ; of Indian stuffs; of
coffee ; and so on through a seemingly endless variety.
As I have already remarked, along the line of the bazaars
are many khans, the resort of merchants from all parts
of Turkey and Persia, and oven India. They aro large,
112 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Taylor
stately buildings, and some of them have superb gate-ways
of sculptured marble. The interior courts are paved with
stone, with fountains in the centre, and many are covered
with domes, resting on massive pillars. The largest has a
roof of nine domes, supported by four grand pillars, which
enclose a fountain. The mosques, into which no Christian
is allowed to enter, are in general inferior to those of
Cairo, but their outer courts are always paved with
marble, adorned with fountains, and surrounded by light
and elegant corridors. The grand mosque is an imposing
edifice, and is said to occupy the site of a former Christian
church.
Another pleasant feature of the city is its coffee-shops,
which abound in the bazaars and on the outskirts of the
gardens, beside the running streams. Those in the bazaars
are spacious rooms with vaulted ceilings, divans running
around the four walls, and fountains in the centre. During
the afternoon they are nearly always filled with Turks,
Armenians, and Persians, smoking the narghileh, or water-
pipe, which is the universal custom in Damascus. The
Persian tobacco, brought here by the caravans from
Baghdad, is renowned for this kind of smoking. The
most popular coffee-shop is near the citadel, on the banks
and over the surface of the Pharpar. It is a rough
wooden building, with a roof of straw mats, but the
sight and sound of the rushing waters as they shoot
away with arrowy swiftness under your feet, the shade
of the trees that line the bank, and the cool breeze that
always visits the spot, beguile you into a second pipe ere
you are aware.
" El ma, wa el khodra, wa el widj el hassan, — water, ver-
dure, and a beautiful face," says an Arab proverb, " are
three things which delight the heart," and the Syrians
avow that all three are to be found in Damascus. Not
Taylor] DAMASCUS, THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT. 113
only on the three Sundays of each week, but every day,
in the gardens about the city, you may see whole families
(and if Jews or Christians, many groups of families)
spending the day in the shade, beside the beautiful waters.
There are several gardens fitted up purposely for these pic-
nics, with kiosks, fountains, and pleasant scats under the
trees. You bring your pipes, your pi'ovisions, and the like
with you, but servants are in attendance to furnish fire and
water and coffee, for which, on leaving, you give a small
gratuity. Of all the Bamascines I have yet seen, there is
not one but declares his city to be the Garden of the World,
the Pearl of the Orient, and thanks God and the Prophet
for having permitted him to be born and to live in it.
But except the bazaars, the khans, and the baths, of
which there are several most luxurious establishments, the
city itself is neither so rich nor so purely Saracenic in its
architecture as Cairo. The streets are narrow and dirty,
and the houses, which are never more than two low stories
in height, are built of sun-dried bricks, coated with plaster.
I miss the solid piles of stone, the elegant door-ways, and,
above all, the exquisite hanging balconies of carved wood
which meet one in the old streets of Cairo. Damascus is
the representative of all that is gay, brilliant, and pictu-
resque in Oriental life ; but for stately magnificence, Cairo,
and, I suspect, Baghdad, is its superior.
We visited the other day the houses of some of the rich-
est Jews and Christians. Old Abou-Ibraham, the Jewish
servant of the hotel, accompanied and introduced us. It is
customary for travellers to make these visits, and the fam-
ilies, far from being annoyed, are flattered by it. The
exteriors of the houses are mean ; but after threading a
narrow passage, we emerged into a court rivalling in pro-
fusion of ornament and rich contrast of colors one's early
idea of the Palace of Aladdin. The floors and fountains
hi.— A 10*
114 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Taylor
are all of marble mosaic ; the arches of the liioan glitter
with gold, and the walls bewilder the eye with the intri-
cacy of their adornments.
In the first house we were received by the family in a
room of precious marbles, with niches in the walls resem-
bling grottoes of silver stalactites. The cushions of the
divan were of the richest silk, and a chandelier of Bo-
hemian crystal hung from the ceiling. Silver narghilehs
were brought to us, and coffee was served in heavy silver
zerfs. The lady of the house was a rather corpulent lady
of about thirty-five, and wore a semi-European robe of em-
broidered silk and lace, with full trousers gathered at the
ankles, and yellow slippers. Her black hair was braided,
and fastened at the end with golden ornaments, and the
lificht scarf twisted around her head blazed with diamonds.
The lids of her large eyes were stained with kohl, and her
eyebrows were plucked out and shaved away so as to leave
only a thin, arched line, as if drawn with a pencil, above
each eye. Her daughter, a girl -of fifteen, who bore the
genuine Hebrew name of Eachel, had even bigger and
blacker eyes than her mother; but her forehead was low,
her mouth large, and the expression of her face exceedingly
stupid. The father of the family was a middle-aged man,
with a well-bred air, and talked with an Oriental politeness
which was very refreshing. An English lady, who was of
our party, said to him, through me, that if she possessed
such a house she would be willing to remain in Damascus.
" Why does she leave, then ?" he immediately answered ;
"this is her houso, and everything that is in it." Speak-
ing of visiting Jerusalem, he asked me whether it was not
a more beautiful city than Damascus. " It is not more beau-
tiful," I said, "but it is more holy," an expression which
the whole company received with great satisfaction. . . .
The last visit we paid was to the dwelling of a Maronite,
Taylor] DAMASCUS, THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT. 115
the richest Christian in Damascus. The house resembled
those we had already seen, except that, having been
recently built, it was in bettor condition, and exhibited
better taste in the ornaments. No one but the lady was
allowed to enter the female apartments, the rest of us
being entertained by the proprietor, a man of fifty, and
without exception the handsomest and most dignified per-
son of that ago I have over seen. He was a king without
a throne, and fascinated me completely by the noble ele-
gance of his manner. In any country but the Orient I
should have pronounced him incapable of an unworthy
thought ; here, he may be exactly the reverse.
Although Damascus is considered the oldest city in tho
world, the date of its foundation going beyond tradition,
there are very few relics of antiquity in or near it. In the
bazaar were three large pillars, supporting half the pedi-
ment, which are said to have belonged to the Christian
Church of St. John, but, if so, that church must have been
originally a Roman temple. Part of the Roman walls and
one of the city gates remain ; and we saw tho spot where,
according to tradition, Saul was let down from tho wall in
a basket. There are two localities pointed out as the scene
of his conversion, which, from his own account, occurred
near the city. I visited a subterranean chapel claimed by
the Latin monks to be the cellar of the house of Ananias, in
which tho apostle was concealed. The cellar is, undoubt-
edly, of great antiquity ; but as the whole quarter was for
many centuries inhabited wholly by Turks, it would be
curious to know how the monks ascertained which was tho
house of Ananias. As for the " street called Straight," it
would be difficult at present to find any in Damascus cor-
responding to that epithet.
Tho famous Damascus blades, so ronowned in the time
of the Crusaders, arc made here no longer. The art has
116 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Taylor
been lost for three or four centuries. Yet genuine old
swords, of the true steel, are occasionally to be found.
They are readily distinguished from modern imitations by
their clear and silvery ring when struck, and by the finely
watered appearance of the blade, produced by its having
been first made of woven wire, and then worked over and
over again until it attained the requisite temper.
A droll Turk, who is the shekh ed-delldl f or Chief of the
Auctioneers, and is nicknamed Abou-Anteeka (the Father
of the Antiques), has a large collection of sabres, daggers,
pieces of mail, shields, pipes, rings, seals, and other ancient
articles. He demands enormous prices, but generally takes
about one-third of what he first asks. I have spent sev-
eral hours in his curiosity shop bargaining for turquoise
rings, carbuncles, Persian amulets, and Circassian daggers.
While looking over some old swords the other day, I no-
ticed one of exquisite temper, but with a shorter blade
than usual. The point had apparently been snapped off in
fight, but owing to the excellence of the sword, or the
owner's affection for it, the steel had been carefully shaped
into a new point. Abou-Anteeka asked five hundred pias-
tres, and I, who had taken a particular fancy to possess it,
offered him two hundred in an indifferent way, and then
laid it aside to examine other articles. After his refusal to
accept my offer I said nothing more, and was leaving the
shop, when the old fellow called me back, saying, " You
have forgotten your sword," — which I thereupon took at
my own price.
I have shown it to Mr. Wood, the British consul, who
pronounced it an extremely fine specimen of Damascus
steel; and, on reading the inscription enamelled on the
blade, ascertained that it was made in the year of the
Hegira 181, which corresponds to a.d. 798. This was
during the caliphate of Haroun al-Eascbid, and who knows
Porter] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASH AN. 117
but the sword may have once flashed in the presence of
that great and glorious sovereign, — nay, been drawn by his
own hand! Who knows but that the Milan armor of the
Crusaders may have shivered its point on the field of As-
kalon ! I kiss the veined azure of thy blade, O Sword of
Ilaroun ! I hang the crimson cords of thy scabbard upon
my shoulder, and thou shalt henceforth clank in silver
music at my side, singing to my ear, and mine alone, thy
chants of battle, thy rejoicing songs of slaughter 1
THE GIANT CITIES OF BASHAN.
J. L. PORTER.
[The world is widely strewn with the ruins of man's works of archi-
tecture. Throughout the Old World, and in many parts of the New,
shattered walls, heaps of debris, shapeless mounds, tell where man lived
and labored in the far past, vainly trusting that the work of his hands
would endure forever. Only in one land which we can recall do his
works endure as he left them, only in one realm can we find cities, de-
serted two or three thousand years ago, with habitations fit to dwell in
still. This is the land of " Og, King of Bashan, of the remnant of
the giants, " whose iron bed was nine cubits long and four cubits broad.
This historic land, in the far past, was densely peopled. In Argob,
one of its provinces, Jair, a chief of the tribe of Manasseh, took sixty
great cities " fenced with high walls, gates, and bars, besides unwalled
towns a great many." This realm of Manasseh, in Eastern Palestine,
has been little visited by travellers. Its fertile soil is now deserted, its
enduring cities are not dwelt in, its luxuriant pastures are dwelt in
only by wandering Arabs. Yet it is amply worth visiting, and we give
from the narrative of Kev. J. L. Porter a brief account of some of its
marvels.]
The ancient cities and even the villages of Western Pal-
estine have been almost annihilated; with the exception
118 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Porter
of Jerusalem, Hebron, and two or three others, not one
stone has been left upon another. In some places we can
scarcely discover the spot where a noted city stood, so
complete has been the desolation. Even in Jerusalem
itself only a very few vestiges of the ancient buildings
remain ; the Tower of David, portions of the wall of the
Temple area, and one or two other fragments, — just enough
to form the subject of dispute among antiquaries.
The state of Bashan is totally different : it is literally
crowded with towns and large villages; and, though the
vast majority of them are deserted, they are not ruined. I
have more than once entered a deserted city in the evening,
taken possession of a comfortable house, and spent the
night in peace. Many of the houses in the ancient cities
of Bashan are as perfect as if only finished yesterday. The
walls are sound, the roofs unbroken, the doors, and even
the window-shutters, in their places. Let not my readers
think that I am transcribing a passage from the " Arabian
Nights." I am relating sober facts ; I am simply telling
what I have seen, and what I purpose more fully to
describe.
" But how," you ask me, "can we account for the preser-
vation of ordinary dwellings in a land of ruins? If one
of our modern English cities were deserted for a millennium
there would scarcely be a fragment of a wall standing."
The reply is easy enough. The houses of Bashan are not
ordinary houses. Their walls are from five to eight feet
thick, built of large squared blocks of basalt ; the roofs
are formed of slabs of the same material, hewn like planks,
and reaching from wall to wall ; the very doors and win-
dow-shutters are of stone, hung upon pivots projecting
above and below. Some of these ancient cities have from
two to five hundred houses still perfect, but not a man to
dwell in them. On one occasion, from the battlements of
Porteii] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASHAN. 119
the Castle of Salcah, I counted some thirty towns and vil-
lages, dotting the surface of the vast plain, many of them
almost as perfect as when they were built, and yet for
more than five centuries there has not been a single inhab-
itant in one of them.
[When we remember that these habitations were probably erected
before the Mosaic invasion of Palestine by the Israelites, and that
the later inhabitants but dwelt in the houses erected by the old
"giants" of Bashan, the wonder grows. More than three thousand
years old, yet in order to be dwelt in to-day I There is nothing like it
elsewhere in the world. Bashan has stood in the way of invading
hordes, and has been many times swept over by armies of Assyrians,
Turks, and other races. Its inhabitants have vanished, but its dwell-
ings remain, proof against fire or decay, and ready to be moved into
and occupied by the people who in the future shall come to till again
the productive fields of this once strikingly fertile land. But we must
let our traveller proceed v»ith his narrative.]
On a bright and balmy morning in February a party of
seven cavaliers defiled from the East Gate of Damascus,
rode for half an hour among the orchards that skirt the
old city, and then, turning to the left, struck out, along a
broad beaten path through the open fields, in a south-
easterly direction. The leader was a wild-looking figure.
His dress was a red cotton tunic or shirt, fastened round
the waist by a broad leathern girdle. Over it was a loose
jacket of sheepskin, the wool inside. His feet and legs
were bare. On his head was a flame-colored handkerchief,
fastened above by a coronet of black camel's hair, which
left the ends and long fringe to flow over his shoulders.
He was mounted on an active, shaggy pony, with a pad
for a saddle and a hair halter for a bridle. Before him,
across the back of his little steed, he carried a long rifle,
his only weapon. Immediately behind him, on powerful
Arab horses, were three men in Western costume: one of
120 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Porter
these was the writer. Next came an Arab, who acted as
dragoman, or rather courier, and two servants on stout
hacks brought up the rear.
On gaining the beaten track, our guide struck into a sharp
canter. The great city was soon left far behind, and on
turning we could see its tall white minarets shooting up
from the sombre foliage and thrown into bold relief by the
dark background of Anti-Lebanon. The plain spread out
on each side, smooth as a lake, covered with the delicate
green of the young grain. Here and there were long belts
and large clumps of dusky olives, from the midst of which
rose the gray towers of a mosque or the white dome of a
saint's tomb. On the south the plain was shut in by a
ridge of bare, black hills, appropriately named Jebel-el-
Aswad, " the Black Mountains ;" while away on the west,
in the distance, Hermon rose in all its majesty, a pyramid
of spotless snow. From whatever point one sees it, there
are few landscapes in the world which, for richness and
soft, enchanting beauty, can be compared with the plain
of Damascus.
After riding about seven miles, during which we passed
straggling groups of men, — some on foot, some on horses
and donkeys, and some on camels, most of them dressed
like our guide, and all hurrying on in the same direction
as ourselves, — we reached the eastern extremity of the
Black Mountains, and found ourselves on the sides of a
narrow green vale, through the centre of which flows the
river Pharpar. A bridge here spans the stream ; and be-
yond it, in the rich meadows, the Hauran caravan was
being marshalled.
Up to this point the road is safe, and may be travelled
almost at any time ; but on crossing the Awaj we enter
the domains of the Bedawin, whose law is the sword, and
whose right is might. Our farther progress was liable to
Porter] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASHAN. 121
be disputed at any moment. The attacks of the Bedawin,
when made, are sudden and impetuous ; and resistance, to
be effectual, must be prompt and decided. During the
winter season this eastern route is in general pretty secure,
as the Arab tribes have their encampments far distant
on the banks of the Euphrates, or in the interior of the
desert ; but the war between the Druses and the govern-
ment, which had just been concluded, had drawn these
daring marauders from their customary haunts, and they
endured the rain and snow of the Syrian frontier in the
hope of plunder.
All seemed fully aware of this, and appeared to feel,
here as elsewhere, that the hand of the Ishmaelite is
against every man. Consequently stragglers hurried up
and fell into the ranks ; bales and packages on mules and
camels were rearranged and more carefully adjusted ; mus-
kets and pistols were examined, and cartridges got into a
state of readiness ; armed men were placed in something
like order along the sides of the file of animals; and a few
horsemen were sent on in front, to scour the neighboring
hills and the skirts of the great plain beyond, so as to pre-
vent surprise. A number of Druses who here joined the
caravan, and who were easily distinguished by their snow-
white turbans and bold, manly bearing, appeared to take
the chief direction in these warlike preparations, though,
as the caravan was mainly made up of Christians, one of
these, called Musa, was the nominal leader. It was a
strange and exciting scene, and one would have thought
that an attempt to reduce such a refractory and heteroge-
neous multitude of men and animals to anything like order
would be absolutely useless. Some of the camels and don-
keys, breaking loose, scattered their loads over the plain,
and spread confusion all around them; others growled,
kicked, and brayed ; drivers shouted and gesticulated ; men
F 11
122 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Porter
and boys ran through the crowd, asking for missing
brothers and companions ; horsemen galloped from group
to group, entreating and threatening by turns. At length,
however, the order was given to march. It passed along
from front to rear, and the next moment every sound was
hushed ; the very beasts seemed to comprehend its mean-
ing, for they fell quietly into their places, and the long
files, now four and five abreast, began to move over the
grassy plain with a stillness that was almost painful.
[Leaving the fertile valley of the Pharpar, the caravan entered a
dreary region. After two hours they reached a green meadow, and
saw, far extending before them, the plain of Bashan, — desolate and
forsaken, but with abundant promise of fertility in its soil. As they
advanced they saw in the distance a black line, which rose until it
appeared a Cyclopean wall. This was the Lejah, a vast field of basalt
in the middle of the plain of Bashan, with an elevation of some thirty
feet above the plain. Night was now at hand.]
The sun went down, and the short twilight was made
still shorter by heavy clouds which drifted across the face
of the sky. A thick rain began to fall, which made the
prospect of a night inarch or a bivouac equally unpleasant.
Still I rode on through the darkness, striving to dispel
gloomy forebodings by the stirring memory of Bashan's
ancient glory, and the thought that I was now treading
its soil and on my way to the great cities founded and in-
habited four thousand years ago by the giant Rephaim.
Before the darkness set in, Musa had pointed out to me
the towers of three or four of these cities rising above the
rocky barrier of the Lejah. How I strained my eyes in
vain to pierce the deepening gloom! Now I knew that
some of them must be close at hand. The sharp ring of
my horse's feet on pavement startled me. This was fol-
lowed by painful stumbling over loose stones, and the twist-
ing of his limbs among jagged rocks. The sky was black
Porter] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASH AN. 123
overhead, the ground black beneath ; the rain was drifting
in my face, so that nothing could be seen.
A halt was called ; and it was with no little pleasure
that I heard the order given for the caravan to rest till
the moon rose. " Is there any spot," I asked of an Arab
at ray side, '• where we could get shelter from the rain ?" —
" There is a house ready for you, " he answered. " A house I
Is there a house here ?" — " Hundreds of them. This is the
town of Burak."
We were conducted up a rugged winding path, which
seemed, so far as we could make out in the dark and by
the motion of our horses, to be something like a ruinous
staircase. At length the dark outline of high walls began
to appear against the sky, and presently we entered a paved
street. Here we were told to dismount and give our horses
to the servants. An Arab struck a light, and, inviting us
to follow, passed through a low, gloomy door into a spacious
chamber.
I looked with no little interest round the apartment of
which we had taken such unceremonious possession ; but
the light was so dim, and the walls, roof, and floor so black,
that I could make out nothing satisfactorily. Getting a
torch from one of the servants, I lighted it and proceeded to
examine the mysterious mansion ; for, though drenched with
rain and wearied with a twelve hours' ride, I could not rest.
I felt an excitement such as I never before had experienced.
I could scarcely believe in the reality of what I saw and
what I heard from my guides in reply to eager questions.
The house seemed to have undergone little change from
the time its old master had left it; and yet the thick nitrous
crust on its floor showed that it had been deserted for long
ages. The walls were perfect, nearly five feet thick, built
of lar<co blocks of hewn stones, without lime or cement of
any kind. The roof was formed of large slabs of the same
124 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Porter
black basalt, lying as regularly, and jointed as closely, as
if the workmen had only just completed them. They meas-
ured twelve feet in length, eighteen inches in breadth, and
six inches in thickness. The ends rested on a plain stone
cornice, projecting about a foot from each side-wall. The
chamber was twenty feet long, twelve wide, and ten high.
The outer door was a slab of stone, four and a half feet
high, four wide, and eight inches thick. It hung on pivots
formed of projecting parts of the slab, working in sockets
in the lintel and threshold ; and, though so massive, I was
able to open and shut it with ease.
At one end of the room was a small window with a
stone shutter. An inner door, also of stone, but of finer
workmanship, and not quite so heavy as the other, ad-
mitted to a chamber of the same size and appearance.
From it a much larger door communicated with a third
chamber, to which there was a descent by a flight of stone
steps. This was a spacious hall, equal in width to the two
rooms, and about twenty-five feet long by twenty high.
A semicircular arch was thrown across it, supporting the
stone roof; and a gate so large that camels could pass in
and out opened on the street. The gate was of stone, and
it appeared to have been open for ages. Here our horses
were comfortably installed.
Such were the internal arrangements of this strange old
mansion. It had only one story; and its simple, massive
style of architecture gave evidence of a very remote an-
tiquity. On a large stone which formed the lintel of the
gate-way there was a Greek inscription ; but it was so high
up, and my light so faint, that I was unable to decipher it,
though I could see that the letters were of the oldest type.
It is probably the same which was copied by Burckhardt,
and which bears a date apparently equivalent to the year
B.C. 30G.
Porter] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASHAN. 125
Owiug to the darkness of the night and the shortness
of our stay, I was unable to ascertain from personal obser-
vation either the extent of Burak or the general character
of its buildings ; but the men who gathered around me,
when I returned to my chamber, had often visited it.
They said the houses were all like the one we occupied,
only some smaller, and a few larger, and that there were
no great buildings. Burak stands on the northeast corner
of the Lejah, and was thus one of the frontier towns of
ancient Argob. It is built upon rocks, and encompassed by
rocks so wild and rugged as to render it a natural fortress.
After a few hours' rest the order for march was again
given. We found our horses at the door, and, mounting
at one, we followed Musa. The rain had ceased, the sky
was clear, and the moon shone brightly, half revealing the
savage features of the environs of Burak. I can never
forget that scene. Huge masses of shapeless rocks rose
up here and there, among and around the houses, to the
height of fifteen and twenty feet, their summits jagged and
their sides all shattered. Between them were pits and
yawning fissures, as many feet in depth ; while the flat
surfaces of naked rock were thickly strewn with huge
boulders of basalt. The narrow, tortuous road by which
Musa led us out was in places carried over chasms, and in
places cut through cliffs. An ancient aqueduct ran along-
side of it, which in former days conveyed a supply of water
from a neighboring winter stream to the tanks and reser-
voirs from which the town gets its present name, Burak
("the tanks"). . . .
[These aqueducts, common in eastern Syria,] appear to
have been constructed as follows: a shaft was sunk to the
depth of from ten to twenty feet, at a spot where it was
supposed water might be found ; then a tunnel was exca-
vated on the level of the bottom of the shaft, and in the
11*
126 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Porteb
direction of the town to be supplied. At the distance of
about one hundred yards another shaft was sunk, con-
necting the tunnel with the surface ; and so the work was
carried on until it was brought close to the city, where a
great reservoir was made. Some of these aqueducts are
nearly twenty miles in length ; and even if no living spring
should exist along their whole course, they soon collect in
the rainy season sufficient surface water to supply the largest
reservoirs. Springs are rare in Bashan. It is a thirsty
land ; but cisterns of enormous dimensions — some open,
others covered — are seen in every city and village. . . .
Scrambling through, or rather over, a ruinous gate-way,
we entered the city of Bathanyeh. A wide street lay be-
fore us, the pavement perfect, the houses on each side
standing, streets and lanes branching off to the right and
left. There was something inexpressibly mournful in
riding along that silent street, and looking in through half-
open doors to one after another of those desolate houses,
with the rank grass and weeds in their courts, and the
brambles growing in festoons over the door-ways, and
branches Of trees shooting through the gaping rents in the
old walls. The ring of our horses' feet on the pavement
awakened the echoes of the city and startled many a
strange tenant. Owls flapped their wings round the gray
towers ; daws shrieked as they flew away from the house-
tops ; foxes ran in and out among the shattered dwellings,
and two jackals rushed from an open door and scampered
off along the street before us. . . .
One of the houses in which I rested for a time might
almost be termed a palace. A spacious gate-way, with
massive folding doors of stone, opened from the street into
a large court. On the left was a square tower some forty
feet in height. Eound the court, and opening into it, were
the apartments, all in perfect preservation ; and yet the
Porter] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASHAN. 127
place docs not seem to have been inhabited for centuries.
Greek inscriptions on the principal buildings prove that
they existed at the commencement of our era; and in the
whole town I did not see a solitary trace of Mohammedan
occupation, so that it has probably been deserted for at
least a thousand years.
[Many of the cities of Bashan appear to have been occupied in
Greek and Roman, and some of them in Mohammedan, times, and
they possess many evidences of this occupation. Our author describes
numbers of them, but we must confine ourselves to a few selections
from his narrative.]
Salcah is one of the most remarkable cities in Palestine.
It has been long deserted ; and yet, as nearly as I could
estimate, five hundred of its houses are still standing, and
from three to four hundred families might settle in it at
any moment without laying a stone or expending an hour's
labor on repairs. The circumference of the town and
castle together is about three miles. Besides the castle, a
number of square towers, like the belfries of churches, and
a few mosques appear to be the only public buildings. . . .
The castle occupies the summit of a steep conical hill,
which rises to the height of some three hundred feet, and
is the southern point of the mountain range of Bashan.
Iiound the base of the hill is a deep moat, and another still
deeper encircles the walls of the fortress. The building is
a patchwork of various periods and nations. The founda-
tions are Jewish, if not earlier; Roman rustic masonry
appears about them ; and over all is lighter Saracenic
work, with beautifully interlaced inscriptions. The ex-
terior walls are not much defaced, but the interior is one
confused mass of ruins.
The view from the top is wide and wonderfully interest-
ing. It embraces the wholo southern slope of the moun-
128 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Porter
tains, which, though rocky, are covered from bottom to
top with artificial terraces and fields divided by stone
fences. . . . Wherever I turned my eyes, towns and vil-
lages were seen. . . . On the section of the plain between
south and east I counted fourteen towns, all of them, so
far as I could see with my telescope, habitable like Salcah,
but entirely deserted. From this one spot I saw upwards
of thirty deserted towns. . . . Not only is the country —
plain and hill-side alike — chequered with fenced fields, but
groves of fig-trees are here and there seen, and terraced
vineyards still clothe the sides of some of the hills. These
are neglected and wild, but not fruitless. Mahmood tells
us that they produce great quantities of figs and grapes,
which are rifled year after year by the Bedawin in their
periodical raids. Nowhere on earth is there such a melan-
choly example of tyranny, rapacity, and misrule as here.
Fields, pastures, vineyards, houses, villages, cities, — all
alike deserted and waste. Even the few inhabitants that
have hid themselves among the rocky fastnesses and
mountain defiles drag out a miserable existence, oppressed
by robbers of the desert on the one hand and robbers of
the government on the other. . . .
I could not but remark, while wandering through the
streets and lanes [of the city of Kureiyeh, — the Biblical
Kerioth], that the private houses bear the marks of the
most remote antiquity. The few towers and temples,
which inscriptions show to have been erected in the first
centuries of the Christian era, are modern in comparison
with the colossal walls and massive stone doors of the
private houses. The simplicity of their style, their low
roofs, the ponderous blocks of roughly-hewn stone with
which they are built, the great thickness of the walls, and
the heavy slabs which form the ceilings, — all point to a
period far earlier than the Eoman age, and probably even
Porter] THE GIANT CITIES OF BASIIAN. 129
antecedent to the conquest of the country by the Israelites.
Moses makes special mention of the strong cities of Bashan,
and speaks of their high walls and gates. He tells us, too,
in the same connection, that Bashan was called the land of
the giants (or Eephaim) ; leaving us to conclude that the
cities were built by giants.
Now the houses of Kerioth and other towns of Bashan
appear to be just such dwellings as a race of giants would
build. The walls, the roofs, but especially the ponderous
gates, doors, and bars, are in every way characteristic of a
period when architecture was in its infancy, when giants
were masons, and when strength and security were the
grand requisites. I measured a door in Kerioth : it was
nine feet high, four and a half feet wide, and ten inches
thick, — one solid slab of stone. I saw the folding doors of
another town in the mountains still larger and heavier.
Time produces little effect on such buildings as these.
The heavy stone slabs of the roofs resting on the massivo
walls make the structure as firm as if built of solid ma-
sonry; and the black basalt used is almost as hard as iron.
. . . [These houses] are, I believe, the only specimens in
the world of the ordinary private dwellings of remote
antiquity. The monuments designed by the genius and
reared by the wealth of imperial Rome are fast moulder-
ing to ruin in this land ; temples, palaces, tombs, fortresses,
are all shattered, or prostrate in the dust; but the simple,
massivo houses of the Rephaim are in many cases as per-
fect as if only completed yesterday.
in.— t
130 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Layard
THE WONDERS OF NINEVEH.
AUSTEN HENRY LAYARD.
[Layard. the antiquarian to whom the world is so deeply indented
for his labors at Nineveh, was of English origin, hut born in Paris in
1817. He visited Asia in 1840, and a few years afterwards made his
celebrated discoveries at the site of the Assyrian capital. The story
of his excavations was admirably told in his ' ' Nineveh and its Ite-
mains." He returned in 1849 and made further excavations, described
in a subsequent work. He was afterwards a member of Parliament,
ambassador to Spain and to Constantinople, etc. The first excava-
tions at Mosul, the site of Nineveh, had been made by M. Botta,
the French consul, in 1842, and it was his partial success that induced
Layard to enter upon the labor of excavation. The work of Botta
had been on the mound of Khorsabad. Layard determined to at-
tempt that of Nimroud. Leaving Mosul on the pretence that he
was going on a boar-hunt, he proceeded to Nimroud, engaged some
Arabs, and went to work. An ancient chamber was quickly exca-
vated.]
In the rubbish near the bottom of this chamber I found
several ivory ornaments, on which were traces of gilding;
among them was the figure of a man in long robes, carry-
ing in one hand the Egyptian crux ansata, part of a crouch-
ing sphinx, and flowers designed with great taste and ele-
gance. Awad, who had his own suspicions of the object
of my search, which he could scarcely persuade himself
was limited to mere stones, carefully collected all the scat-
tered fragments of gold-leaf he could find in the rubbish ;
and, calling me aside in a mysterious and confidential
fashion, produced them wrapped up in a piece of dingy
paper.
" O Bey," said he, " Wallah ! your books are right, and
the Franks know that which is hid from the true believer.
La yard] THE WONDERS OF NINEVEH. 131
Here is the gold, sure enough, and, please God, wo shall
find it all in a few days. Only don't say anything about
it to those Arabs, for they are asses, and cannot hold their
tongues. The matter will come to the ears of the pasha."
The sheikh was much surprised, and equally disappointed,
when I generously presented him with the treasures he
had collected, and all such as he mi<jht hereafter discover.
[The story that gold had heen found, however, reached Mosul, and
the suspicious pasha obliged Layard to discontinue his work. A new
governor was appointed in January, 1846, who gave him full permis-
sion to continue his labors. They were recommenced with energy,
and many interesting inscriptions and sculptures soon discovered.]
On all these figures paint could be faintly distinguished,
particularly on the hair, beard, eyes, and sandals. The
slabs on which they were sculptured had sustained no in-
jury, and could be without difficulty packed and moved to
any distance. There could no longer be any doubt that
they formed part of a chamber, and that to explore it
completely I had only to continue along the wall, now
partly uncovered.
On the morning following these discoveries I rode to
the encampment of Sheikh Abd-ur-rahman, and was return-
ing to the mound, when I saw two Arabs of his tribe
urging their mares to the top of their speed. On approach-
ing me they stopped. "Hasten, O Bey," exclaimed one of
them ; "hasten to the diggers, for they have found Nimrod
himself. Wallah, it is wonderful, but it is true! we have
seen him with our eyes. There is no God but God;" and
both joining in this pious exclamation, they galloped off,
without further words, in the direction of their tents.
On reaching the ruins, I descended into the new trench,
and found the workmen, who had already seen me as I
approached, standing near a heap of baskets and cloaks.
132 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Layard
While Awad advanced, and asked for a present to celebrato
the occasion, the Arabs withdrew the screen they had
hastily constructed, and disclosed an enormous human
head sculptured in full out of the alabaster of the country.
They had uncovered the upper part of the figure, the
remainder of which was still buried in the earth. I at
once saw that the head must belong to a winged lion or
bull, similar to those of Khorsabad and Persepolis. It
was in admirable preservation. The expression was calm,
yet majestic, and the outline of the features showed a free-
dom and knowledge of art scarcely to be looked for in the
works of so remote a period. The cap had three horns,
and, unlike that of the human-headed bulls hitherto found
in Assyria, was rounded and without ornament at the
top.
I was not surprised that tho Arabs had been amazed
and terrified at this apparition. It required no stretch of
imagination to conjure up the most strange fancies. This
gigantic head, blanched with age, thus rising from tho
bowels of the earth, might well have belonged to one of
those fearful beings which are pictured in tho traditions
of the country, as appearing to mortals, slowly ascending
from the regions below. One of the workmen, on catch-
ing the first glimpse of the monster, had thrown down his
basket and run off towards Mosul as fast as his legs could
carry him. I learned this with regret, as I anticipated the
consequences.
"While I was superintending the removal of the earth,
which still clung to the sculpture, and giving directions for
the continuation of the work, a noise of horsemen was
heard, and presently Abd-ur-rahman, followed by half his
tribe, appeared on the edge of the trench. As soon as tho
two Arabs had reached tho tents, and published the won-
ders they had seen, every one mounted his mare and rode
Layard] THE WONDERS OF NINEVEH. 133
to the mound, to satisfy himself of the truth of these in-
conceivable reports. When they beheld the head they all
cried out together, " There is no God but God, and Moham-
med is his Prophet !" It was some time before the sheikh
could be prevailed upon to descend into the pit and con-
vince himself that the image he saw was of stone.
" This is not the work of men's hands," exclaimed he,
" but of those infidel giants of whom tho Prophet, peace
be with him ! has said that they were higher than tho
tallest date-tree ; this is one of the idols which Noah, peace
be with him ! cursed before the flood." In this opinion,
the result of a cai*eful examination, all the bystanders con-
curred. I now ordered a trench to be dug due south from
the head, in the expectation of finding a corresponding
figure, and before nightfall reached the object of my search
about twelve feet distant.
[The figures, when uncovered, proved to be a pair of winged hurnan-
headed lions, the human shape extending to the waist.]
In one hand each figure carried a goat or stag, and in
the other, which hung down by the side, a branch with
three flowers. They formed a northern entrance into tho
chamber of which the lions previously described were tho
southern portal. I completely uncovered the latter, and
found them to be entire. They were about twelve feet
in height and the same number in length. The body
and limbs were admirably portrayed ; the muscles and
bones, although strongly developed to display the strength
of the animal, showed at the same time a correct knowl-
edge of its anatomy and form. Expanded wings sprung
from tho shoulder and spread over the back ; a knotted
girdle, ending in tassels, encircled the loins. These mag-
nificent specimens of Assyrian art were in perfect preser-
vation ; the most minute lines in the detail of the wings
12
134 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Layard
and in the ornaments had been retained with their original
freshness. Not a character was wanting in the inscriptions.
[Many more chambers were subsequently opened, the most impor-
tant of the sculptures being carefully packed, floated on rafts down the
Tigris, and shipped to England.]
On Christmas-day I had the satisfaction of seeing a raft,
bearing twenty-three cases, in one of which was the obelisk
[a profusely sculptured and inscribed shaft of black marble,
seven feet high], floating down the river. I watched them
until they were out of sight, and then galloped into Mosul
to enjoy the festivities of the season, with the few Euro-
peans whom duty or business had collected in this remote
corner of the globe.
The northwest palace was naturally the most interesting
portion of the ruins, and to it were principally directed my
researches. I had satisfied myself beyond a doubt that it
was the most ancient building yet explored in Assyria.
Not having been exposed to a conflagration like other edi-
fices, the sculptures, bas-reliefs, and inscriptions which it
contained were still admirably preserved. When the ex-
cavations were resumed after Christmas, eight chambers
had been discovered. There were now so many outlets
and entrances that I had no trouble in finding new rooms
and halls, — one chamber leading into another. By the end
of the month of April I had explored almost the whole
building, and had opened twenty-eight chambers cased
with alabaster slabs. . . .
By the middle of May I had finished my work at Nim-
roud. My house was dismantled. The doors and windows,
which had been temporarily fitted up, were taken out,
and, with the little furniture that had been collected to-
gether, were placed on the backs of donkeys and camels to
be carried to the town. The Arabs struck their tents and
Layard] THE WONDERS OF NINE VEIL 135
commenced their march. I remained behind until every-
one had left, and then turned my back upon the deserted
village. We were the last to quit the plains of Nimroud ;
and, indeed, nearly the whole country to the south of
Mosul, as far as the Zab, became, after our departure, a
wilderness.
[In 1849, Layard returned to Nineveh, in the interests of the British
Museum, which had profited so greatly from the results of his former
work. lie now began a thorough excavation of the mound of Kou-
yunjik, and also resumed the explorations at Nimroud.]
By the end of November several entire chambers had
been excavated at Kouyunjik, and many bas-reliefs of great
interest had been discovered. The four sides of a hall had
now been explored. In the centre of each was a grand
entrance, guarded by colossal human-headed bulls. This
magnificent hall was no less than one hundred and twenty-
four feet in length by ninety in breadth, the longest sides
being those to the north and south. It appears to have
formed a centre, around which the principal chambers in
this part of the palace were grouped. Its walls had been
completely covered with the more elaborate and highly-
finished sculptures. Unfortunately, all the bas-reliefs, as
well as the gigantic monsters at the entrance, had suffered
more or less from the fire which had destroyed the edifice ;
but enough of them still remained to show the subject, and
even to enable me in many places to restore it entirely.
There can be no doubt that the king represented as
superintending the building of the mounds and the placing
of the colossal halls is Sennacherib himself, and that the
sculptures celebrate the building at Nineveh of the great
palace and its adjacent temples described in the inscrip-
tions as the work of this monarch. The bas-reliefs were
accompanied in most instances by short epigraphs in the
136 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Layard
cuneiform characters, containing a description of the sub-
ject with the name of the city to which the sculptures
were brought. The great inscriptions on the bulls at the
entrances to Ivouyunjik record, it would seem, not only
historical events, but, with great minuteness, the manner
in which the edifice itself was erected, its general plan, and
the various materials employed in decorating the hall,
chambers, and roofs. When completely deciphered they
will perhaps enable us to restore, with some confidence,
both the general plan and elevation of the building.
[The discoveries here were great, including six human figures of
gigantic proportions, while at Nimroud two copper vessels were found,
filled with small articles of art and utility. In this vicinity were
heaped household utensils, arms, iron instruments, glass howls, and
articles in hronze and ivory. The royal throne stood in a corner of
this chamber.]
Although it was utterly impossible, from the complete
state of decay of the materials, to preserve any part of it
entire, I was able, by carefully removing the earth, to
ascertain that it resembled in shape the chair of state of
the king as seen in the sculptures of Kouyunjik and Khor-
sabad, and particularly that represented in the bas-reliefs
already described, of Sennacherib receiving the captives
and spoil after the conquest of the city of Lachish. With
the exception of the legs, which appear to have been partly
of ivory, it was of wood, cased or overlaid with bronze,
as the throne of Solomon was of ivory overlaid with gold.
By the 28th of January the colossal lions forming the
portal to the great hall in the northwest palace of Nirn-
roud were ready to be dragged to the river-bank. The
walls and their sculptured panelling had been removed
from both sides of them, aud they stood isolated in the
midst of the ruins. Wo rode one calm cloudless night to
Layard] THE WONDERS OF NINEVEH. 137
the mound, to look on them for the last time before they
were taken from their old resting-places. The moon was
at her full, and as we drew nigh to the edge of the deep
wall of earth rising around them, her soft light was creep-
ing over the stern features of tho human heads, and driving
before it the dark shadows which still clothed the lion
forms.
Ono by one tho limbs of the gigantic sphinxes emerged
from tho gloom, until the monsters were unveiled before us.
I shall never forget that night, or the emotions which these
venerable figures caused within me. A few hours more
and they were to stand no longer where they had stood un-
scathed amidst the wrecks of man and his works for ages.
It seemed almost sacrilege to tear them from their old
haunts to make them a mere wonder-stock to tho busy
crowd of a new world. They were better suited to tho
desolation around them ; for they had guarded tho palace in
its glory, and it was for them to watch over it in its ruin.
Sheikh Abdurrahman, who had ridden with us to the
mound, was troubled with no such reflections. He gazed
listlessly at the grim images, wondered at the folly of the
Franks, thought the night cold, and turned his mare towards
his tents. We scarcely heeded his going, but stood speech-
less in the deserted portal, until the shadows again began
to creep over its hoary guardians.
[Among the discoveries made, the most important was the opening
of two small chambers at Kouyunjik which contained the remains of
the royal library. Tablets of baked clay, some entire, but principally
broken into fragments, lay on the floor to the height of a foot or more.
They were covered with inscriptions in the cuneiform character.]
These documents appear to be of various kinds. Many
are historical records of wars, and distant expeditions un-
dertaken by tho Assyrians; some seem to bo royal decrees,
12*
138 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Layard
and are stamped with the name of a king, the son of Es-
sarhaddon ; others again, divided into parallel columns by
horizontal lines, contain lists of the gods, and probably
a register of offerings made in their temples. On one
Dr. Hincks has detected a table of the value of certain
cuneiform letters, expressed by certain alphabetical signs,
according to various modes of using them, — a most impor-
tant discovery ; on another^ apparently a list of the sacred
days in each month ; and on a third, what seems to be a
calendar.
The adjoining chambers contained similar relics, but in
far smaller numbers. Many cases were filled with these
tablets before I left Assyria, and a vast number of them
have been found, I understand, since my departure. A
large collection of them is already deposited in the British
Museum. "We cannot overrate their value. They furnish
us with materials for the complete decipherment of the cu-
neiform character, for restoring the language and history
of Assyria, and for inquiring into the customs, sciences,
and, we may perhaps even add, literature of its people.
The documents that have thus been discovered at Nineveh
probably exceed all that have yet been afforded by the
monuments of Egypt.
[These documents have, indeed, proved of inestimable value. Many
of them have been read since the date of Layard's publications, and
they have in considerable measure restored to us the history and litera-
ture of Assyria and Babylonia. During the winter, Layard spent some
time amid the extensive ruins of Babylon, and made some excavations,
but with no important result. By the spring of 1852 the funds appro-
priated for his excavations were so nearly exhausted, and the hope of
important finds so reduced, that he ceased his labors, and left Mosul
on his return to Europe, April 28, 1852.]
Arnold] PALACE AND JEWELS OF THE SHAH. 139
THE PALACE AND JEWELS OF THE SHAH.
ARTHUR ARNOLD.
[The author of the following selection left London in 1875 for a
tour through Russia and Persia. The results of this journey are given
in his work, " Through Persia by Caravan," a well-told story of acute
and intelligent observation. He has written, also, " From the Le-
vant" and other works of travel. "We give here a description of the
main audience-hall of the Shah, in the palace at Teheran, a room of
about sixty by twenty-five feet in dimensions, open at the sides, its
roof, of mingled Swiss and Chinese character, supported by richly-
gilded twisted columns, the ceiling set with facets of looking-glass.
Near the entrance is a very large picture, containing a portrait of the
Emperor of Austria.]
It is at the opposite end of this saloon that the " Shadow
of God" sits on his heels, or stands to receive the envoys
of Europe. But the Shah's movable throne was not occu-
pying the central niche. There, in that place of honor, we
were permitted to gaze upon one of the characteristic
feats, perhaps the greatest art-work, of his majesty's long
reign. This is an eighteen-inch globe, covered with jewels
from the North Pole to the extremities of the tripod in
which this gemmed sphere is placed. The story goes that
his majesty bought — more probably accepted, at all events
was in possession of — a heap of jewels for which he could
find no immediate purpose. Nothing could add to the
lustre of his crown of diamonds, which is surmounted by
the largest ruby we have ever seen, including those of her
majesty and the Emperors of Germany and Eussia. Ho
had the " Sea of Light," a diamond but little inferior to
the British Koh-i-noor, the " Mountain of Light." He had
coats embroidered with diamonds, with emeralds, with
140 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
rubies, with pearls, and with garnets; he had jewelled
swords and daggers without number; so, possibly because
his imperial mind was turned towards travel, the Shah or-
dered this globe to be constructed, covered with gems, —
the overspreading sea to be of emeralds, and the kingdoms
of the world to be distinguished by jewels of different
color. The Englishman notes with pride and gratification
that England flashes in diamonds ; and a Frenchman may
share the feeling, for Franco glitters illustrious as the
British isles, being set out in the same most costly gems.
The dominion of the Shah's great neighbor, the brand-
new Empress of India, is marked with amethysts ; while
torrid Africa blazes against the literally emerald sea, a
whole continent of rubies.
Near the globe, side by side with a French couch, worth
perhaps a hundred francs, stands the Shah's throne, which
is, of course, arranged for sitting after the manner of the
country. It occupies a space almost as large as Mr. Spur-
geon's or Mr. Ward Beecher's pulpit ; for the occupants of
this throne are fond of space, and occasionally have a kalian
of wonderful dimensions with them upon the splendid
carpet, which is fringed with thousands of pearls. The
embroidered bolster upon which the Shah rests his back
or arm is sewn with pearls. Behind his majesty's head
is a "sun," all glittering with jewels, supported at the cor-
ners with birds in plumage of the same most expensive
material.
On the other side of the niche in which the globe stands
there is a table grimy with dust and extremely incongru-
ous, the top inlaid with the beautiful work of Florence,
and a model, in Sienna marble, of the Arch of Titus, both
gifts from his Holiness, the infallible Pope. Near these
presents, in a recess, and in a very common wooden
frame, is a portrait of the late Sir Henry Havelock ; and
Arnold] PALACE AND JEWELS OF THE SHAH. 141
not fur off a timepiece with ' : running water" and a nod-
ding peacock, a gift from the defunct East India Company
in the days when Shahs received such toys as pleased
them, and were not considered eligible as knights of the
great orders of European courts.
At a short distance is another and a much older hall,
still more exposed to public view. In this pavilion, which
is built to cover and give increased dignity to tho ancient
throne of the Shah, the arrangements are wholly Persian.
The marble floor is raised not more than three feet above
the pavement of a large oblong court- yard, up the broad
paths of which the sons of Iran throng to make salaam
before their monarch. The Shah sits in the motionless
majesty of an Oriental potentate, upon a high throne built
of the alabaster-like greenish marble of Yezd, the platform
being supported upon animals having the same queer re-
semblance to lions which is noticed in the supporters of
the great fountain of the Alhambra at Grenada.
The ceiling of this old reception-hall in the Shah's palace
at Teheran is fashioned in stalactites, like the ceilings in
the ruins of the famous Oriental palace in Spain, and then
covered with pieces of looking-glass, which, if the work
were not bad and the glass were cleaned, would have a
very glittering effect. In this pavilion, the background
of which is hung with a few pictures in frames of looking-
glass, including a portrait of a singularly handsome young
Englishman, formerly attached to the British legation, tho
Shah reclines upon the marble platform of his throne, on
those very great occasions when the hundred and fifty yards
of the enclosure before it is filled with a moving crowd of
his subjects, to whom ho is the impersonation of law and
authorit} 7 . For their reverent homage he makes no sign
of gratification or acknowledgment. Tho "proper thing"
for his majesty to do when thus exhibiting himself in
142 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
solemn state, is to regard their expressions of loyalty and
devotion as something far beneath his notice ; and probably
the imperial gaze passing over their heads is now and then
fixed upon the coarse mosaic on the wall at the end of
the court-yard, showing how Eustem, the "Arthur," the
legendary hero, of Persia, destroyed the White Devil, — an
encounter, it should be remembered, of authenticity as
respectable as that of St. George and the familiar Dragon
which is stamped upon so many of the current coins of
England. . . .
From the great halls of state the commander-in-chief,
the minister of commerce, and other Persian grandees led
our party to an orange house, through the centre of which
ran the stream of clear water I have noticed before as
passing beneath the saloon of the gilded columns. On the
marble pavement beside this running water there were
chairs and couches arranged, upon which his highness in-
vited us to be seated. Snowy sherbet and warm tea were
then served, and afterwards we proceeded to a more homely
saloon than those we had seen. The architecture of this
room, a succession of arcades, again carried our thoughts
to Spain, in its resemblance to the mosque, now the cathe-
dral, of Cordova. It was a large oblong apartment, the
walls colored green, with raised decorations in white
plaster, the room containing three rows of arches. On
the walls were a great many pictures very irregularly
hung. ... At one end of the room was an object in
strange contrast with the trumpery by which it was sur-
rounded. This was an awkward, ugly chair of state
studded with jewels, having a footstool, before which
stood a cat-like representation of a lion, each eye a single
emerald, and the body rugged with a coating of other
precious stones. It was so entirely in keeping with the
mixture we had everywhere observed, that the stand upon
Arnold] PALACE AND JEWELS OF THE SHAH. 143
•which this chair was placed should bo studded with white-
headed German nails worth about twopence a dozen !
In another room we saw the imperial jewels, which, by
special command of his highness the Sipar Salar, were laid
out upon tables for our inspection. 1 fancy that no sover-
eign in Europe has a regalia of equal value. The Shah is
especially rich in diamonds of large, but not the very largest,
size. He has a great number of which the surface is as
large as a silver sixpence. The imperial crown is topped
with a ruby which is probably the largest in the world.
The " Sea of Light," a flat, ill-cut diamond, mounted in a
semi-barbaric ornament, is inferior to the great jewel worn
by tho Empress of India.
The display of the Shah's riches in precious stones in-
cluded, of necessity, the exhibition of several coats, tho
fronts of which are studded and embroidered with jewels.
Several of these became well known during tho Shah's
tour, when they were shown to tho admiring gazo of
European cities. There, too, was the wonderful aigrette,
which tho Shah's brow sustained during tho grandest of
the London entertainments, and beside these garments
lay a number of jewelled swords and daggers. From tho
dazzling spectacle of this display wo passed again to tho
orange house, where coffee and pipes were served, after
which wo took leave of tho Shah's ministers.
The Shah is of tho Kajar tribe, — a dynasty yet young,
the annals of which have been marked by great cruelties.
. . . The Shah himself is not unpopular, and is believed
to have at heart the welfare of his subjects. Persians fre-
quently speak of him as in personal character tho best
among the governing men of tho country, and they are
never shy in talking of their rulers. If thcro is any tem-
pering in tho Persian despotism, it is that of abuse of all
who surround the despot. His majesty recently issued an
144 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
order that a " Box of Justice" should be fixed in a promi-
nent place in all the large towns for the reception of pe-
titions, which were to be forwarded direct to himself. But
the oppressors found means to thwart this innocent plan
by setting a watch over the boxes and upon those who
wished to forward petitions.
[In truth, the people are plundered freely by the officials, even the
poorest of the peasants having to pay dearly for the privilege of living
The small money-lenders are usually soldiers, and the debtor well knows
that any default in payment will be followed by a plunder of all he has
worth taking.]
There is a parade every morning in Teheran. It takes
place in a dusty enclosure near the meidan, or principal
square. We were present on several occasions at these
parades, where European drill-instructors vainly labored.
The Persian soldiers are fine in physique, though they look
more awkward, I fancy, even than Japanese in European
hats, tunics, and trousers. In England one is apt to think
that militiamen display every possible awkwardness in
wearing an infantry hat and scarlet tunic, but the Persian
soldiers beat the rawest of our militiamen. Some wear
the hat on the back of their heads like a fez, others at the
side; with some it falls over their eyes. Their drill is
wretched. Their officers are probably the worst part of
the force. This is the special weakness and inferiority of
all Oriental armies. I saw a Persian officer box the ears
of a private on the parade-ground, rushing into the ranks
to execute this summary punishment.
There is a reason for the deficiency of the rank and file
in drill. No soldier comes to parade who can obtain work-
in the city. The consequence is that the personnel of each
skeleton regiment is changed every morning, and the un-
happy drill-instructor has never beforo him the same body
of men. But this immunity from service must be paid for,
Akxold] PALACE AND JEWELS OF THE SHAII. 145
and the absent privates devoto a portion of their earnings to
their officers, who, from their colonel to the corporal, divide
the fund contributed in respect of this temporary desertion.
[Such is the general character of despotic government. Peculation
exists everywhere, public service of all kinds is wretched, and the des-
pot usually remains in absolute ignorance of, or helpless acquiescence
in, this disregard of his orders and interests.]
Every evening in Ramadan, of which there remained
some days after our arrival in Teheran, the Sipar Salar en-
tertained a regiment at dinner. The repast was served by
candle-light in the straight street between the gate of the
citadel and the taziah. Two lines of thick felt (nummud)
were laid equidistant from the centre of the street, leaving
about a yard of the bare road between them. Shortly before
the gun-fire, his highness's guests were seated in long files
upon the felt. After the gun had boomed permission, huge
dishes, one to every four soldiers, each piled high with rico
and stewed meat, were placed in the centre of the road,
and were at once hidden from view by the overhanging
heads of the hungry men, every one hard at work with
his fingers. Under such circumstances, the nearer tho
mouth can be brought to the dish the larger is the share
which can be pushed into it. Close over each dish four
heads were laid together, and not a word was uttered till
the platters were empty.
For the officers there was spread a wide cloth between
the carpets, and a little adornment was attempted in the
way of bouquets placed between the lighted candles, which
were protected by Russian bell-glasses, and shone like glow-
worms down the long street. In company with a number
of the British legation I was looking on, when Jehungur
Khan, tho adjutant-general of the Persian army, one of
the stoutest and most courteous men in the country, asked
in — o /: 13
146 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
us to join the soldiers in the fruit and tea which followed
the pillau. We sat down, doing all we could to get rid of
our legs, which had an awkward, natural tendency to cross
the dining-table. My immediate neighbors were officers
of the Shah's irregular cavalry, gentlemen wearing turbans
almost as broad as their shoulders, and with a very Bashi-
bazoukish look.
At that time a story was in circulation with reference to
this Jehungur Khan, which is very possibly untrue, but,
being accepted by many as correct, is curiously illustrative
of Persian government. It was said that one of the cour-
tiers who owed him a grudge had told the Shah that he
(the adjutant-general) had saved eight thousand tomans
out of a work in hand, and that he wished to present them
to his majesty. The king of kings is much addicted to
presents, and, as usual, graciously signified his willingness
to accept, and Jehungur Khan had to produce the money,
which he had not saved. . . .
In the quarter of the town near the legations there aro
several walled gardens, and one of these is devoted to
zoology. We were about to apply for admission, when
an Englishman recommended us to remain outside. The
caging of the few beasts, he said, was quite uncertain.
The lion was sometimes observed taking an airing, roaming
where he pleased within the walls, and the bear had been
seen from outside climbing a plane-tree. One is named the
Shah's " English" garden, and from this his majesty lately
received, with much effusion, a bunch of radishes as a
present from his English gardener.
If it were not for these gardens the appearance of
Teheran would indeed be miserable. Wo mounted upon one
of the highest houses, from which we could overlook the
city. Parallelograms of mud varied with cupolas of mud,
representing the roofs of the houses, are the general fea-
Arnold] PALACE AND JEWELS OF THE SHAH. 147
tores, the long succession of mud roofs being now and then
broken by the taller plane-trees and the cypresses of a
garden. But tho landscape is charming, and even the
Himalayas do not present grander elevations than may bo
seen from Teheran ; the loftiest peak of tho Elburz Moun-
tains in sight being that of Dcmavend, an extinct volcano,
tho top of which is not less than eighteen thousand five
hundred feet above tho sea-level. Tho conical summit of
this high mountain is covered with perpetual snow, and
some of tho peaks near Dcmavend are not of much inferior
altitude. . . .
At tho house of every European of position in Teheran
there is a permanent guard of soldiers, who hurriedly for-
sake their pipe, or game of cards upon the dust, to present
arms upon tho arrival of any visitor. The doors of these
houses are generally open throughout the day ; and as
Persians regard an open door as an invitation to enter, and
tho rooms are never locked, and rarely closed with any-
thing more obstructive than a cotton curtain, it is neces-
sary there should be some guard in the door- way. Euro-
peans talk much of the dishonesty of Persians, but our
experience did not confirm the bad opinion. Our suite of
rooms in this mud-built house, which had formerly be-
longed to the French envoy, opened upon a large, squaro
garden enclosed by a mud wall, ruined and broken down in
three or four places, by which any one might enter. Our
doors and windows had no fastenings, and by either it was
never difficult to enter the rooms from the garden. On
the other side was a court-yard, with a fountain and a few-
trees in the centre; and this, except for the soldiers and
servants, who lay about in the passages connecting it with
the crowded street, was quite open, yet we never suffered
any loss from theft. . . .
To my mind the most interesting part of Teheran is to
148 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
be found in the bazaars, which the Europeans of the lega-
tions very rarely enter, and their ladies never. The men
appear to regard the shoving about to which one must
more or less submit in the narrow ways of the bazaars as
a serious infringement upon the dignity of their position,
and the ladies consider a visit to the bazaars as simply im-
possible. The sight of an unveiled woman has no doubt a ^
tendency to make Persians use language which cannot but
bo taken as insulting; and if Englishmen in their company
are acquainted with Persian slang, they are likely enough
to have a quarrel or two on hand in passing through a
bazaar. Ignorance of the vernacular has unquestionably
some advantages in Persia.
A long enclosure separates the buildings of the palace
from the bazaar. There arc in this open space two large
tanks, at which camels, horses, mules, and men are always
drinking. Upon a high stand a very long, huge cannon is
placed, Avhich is said to have been captured in India and
brought as a trophy from Delhi ; but this is probably
untrue.
THE TOMES AND PALACES OF CLASSIC PERSIA.
ARTHUR ARNOLD.
[Any account of Persia seems to necessitate some attention to the
relics of classic Persia, of which modern Persia is but the base shadow,
some description of those striking ruins which are all that remain to
show what Persia was in her pride, and to throw into still stronger re-
lief the degradation into which she has fallen. From Arthur Arnold's
" Through Persia by Caravan" we select a description of these remark-
able architectural remains.]
At Murghaub we approach the grandest relics of the
time when Persia was the great empire of Cyrus, of Da-
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Arnold] TOMBS AND rALACES OF CLASSIC PERSIA. 149
rius, and of Xerxes. At three hours' ride from the vil-
lage the plain is fringed with low hills, among which
stands, close by the path from Ispahan to Shiraz, the
tomb of Cyrus. Near this wo may see rising from the
snow all that remains of his city of Passargarda?, where
the inscription " I am Cyrus, the King, the Achasmenian,"
may bo read more than once upon the ruins. It is partly
from the proximity of these unquestionably genuine ruins,
and also from the dignity and obviously funereal char-
acter of this massive mausoleum, that it has become ac-
cepted as the original resting-place of the body of the great
king. ...
We dismounted at the tomb of Cyrus, and walked about
in the snow, while Kazem made a fire, preparatory to the
manufacture of an omelet. As a rule Oriental monuments
owe much to the grandeur of their situation ; and this is
no exception. They are set in solitude ; they have a sur T
rounding of space, which is all their own. When the
thought of the traveller is arrested by so vast a retrospect,
he becomes more impressed by the natural grandeur of the
desert ; and there seems to be a hush, a natural silence of
the air, which moves around these ancient monuments as
if Nature herself were paying homage at these shrines of
departed greatness. For more than two thousand four
hundred years this tomb has defied the levelling hand of
Time ; and another period of not less duration may appar-
ently be sustained without further injury.
The tomb was originally surrounded by columns, set
probably in a double row, with a covered space between.
But none are left standing. Most of the columns have dis-
appeared entirely; some are prostrate; and of only a few
is there a broken fragment remaining in position. These
columns were not colossal, probably not more than eighteen
feet high ; and the space enclosed is hardly more than a
13*
150 IIALF-IIOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
hundred and fifty feet across. In the centre of this space
stands the tomb, approached by a pyramid of steps, about
forty-five feet square at the base. These steps, the rise of
each being two feet, are composed of large blocks of marble,
the color of which has darkened to a yellowish brown.
Upon a platform about eighteen feet from the ground, and
twenty feet square, stands the tomb, — a small, solid, un-
adorned building, composed of a few blocks and huge slabs
of marble ; the whole being scarcely more than fifteen feet
high from the platform to the peak of the marble roof.
In shape it exactly resembles a child's " Noah's Ark," with
the boat arrangement cut off. At one end there is a low,
massive door-way, through which, if the remains of Cyrus
really rested there, thej' - were carried, to be deposited upon
the floor of this little temple. By all writers, including
our own Professor Eawlinson, this is accepted as the rest-
ing-place of the great king ; and it is believed that his body
was placed here in a golden coffin. . . .
I have never seen in any Mohammedan people an exhibi-
tion of the slightest desire for the protection of the great
historic monuments of which they have been or are pos-
sessed. The pashas of Stamboul looked on unconcerned
while the marbles of ancient Greece were burned to make
lime for building cattle-sheds. Were it in ruins, they would
as soon burn the ruins of Santa Sophia as the timbers of an
old man-of-war ; and for the Persians, these great ruins,
which should be the pride and most sacred treasure of
their country, are nothing more than useless heaps of tum-
bled stone. If any man needed lime in the neighborhood,
or stone to build a caravanserai, he would probably use the
stones of Cyrus's tomb or the columns of the Hall of
Darius; and these invaluable records and memorials of a
period concerning which very much more than our present
knowledge might be gathered by excavation and research
Arnold] TOMBS AND PALACES OF CLASSIC PERSIA. 151
upon the spot, are regarded with no more concern or atten-
tion than the hones of a dead camel.
[From this location the travellers pursued the road to Shiraz, which
led past the ruins of the ancient city of Persepolis.]
The natural formation of the country in the neighbor-
hood of these illustrious ruins is very suggestive and im-
posing. Journeying from Ispahan, the plain, at one end
of which stand the remains of Persepolis, is approached
through a vast natural gate-way, in which run the road and
the river Pulvar, and of which the pillars are strangely
shaped, and the many-colored mountains of the hardest
limestone. The table-rock, or mountain, on the right is
very remarkable; and in this entrance, which is too wide
to be called a gorge, are found the massive ruins of the
city of Istakr, which one has not patience to examine
carefully when so near to the far more interesting re-
mains of Persepolis. At Istakr the road winds to the
left round the bold spur of the mountains which forms
the background of Persepolis.
On approaching the ruins of the halls and temples and
tombs of Darius and his descendants, the traveller, recalling
perhaps to mind all he has seen at Baalbec, at Pa>stum, and
upon the Athenian Acropolis, will surely be struck with a
sense of disappointment, because there is here no outline
of ancient hall or temple, no realizable structure in which
ho can place the form of Darius or Xerxes. There is
nothing more than remains of the temples of Jupiter in
Athens and in Rome, — a few solitary or connected columns
and the massive stones of some part of an ancient hall or
propytoum. The distant aspect of the ruins of Persepolis
will fall below anticipation as much as the results of their
examination in detail will exceed expectation. In fact, the
most interesting ruins in the world, because they arc covered
152 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
and adorned with eloquent records of the past, these stones
are not arranged for a coup-d'oeil.
The mule-path passes close to the side of the mountain
from which the platform of Persepolis is projected into the
plain of Merodasht. Through this plain runs the river
which in classic times was called Araxes, afterwards known
as Bundamir, or Bendemeer, as Moore has called it in
"Lalla Eookh." Standing upon the platform of Persep-
olis, the view across the river is uninterrupted for more
than twenty miles. The extreme height of this platform
where it faces the plain is about forty-five feet, its length
from north to south about fifteen hundred feet, and the
meagre depth from east to west about eight hundred feet.
The grandest work at Persepolis is in connection with
this platform. The masonry of the supporting walls of
the platform is irregular, the blocks, mostly of huge size,
presenting angles of every degree. The surface of this
immense work is as true and sound as it was two thousand
years ago. But it is not in this that the glory of the
platform rests. At its greatest height the platform is
ascended from the plain by a staircase which, for the
magnificence of its proportions and the beauty of con-
struction, deserves to have been regarded as one of the
wonders of the world. The staircase at Persepolis has
had no equal in ancient or modern times. Compared with
this, a work probably of the time of Darius, the marble
stairs which lead to the Parthenon are insignificant, and
the imperial steps in the Eoman Coliseum barbarous. A
regiment of cavalry, ten abreast, could ride easily up the
double flight of the Persepolitan staircase. The steps,
which appear to be composed of the hardest syenite, are
twenty-two feet wide; each step rises only three and a
half inches, and has a tread of fifteen inches. In some
places the blocks of the masonry in the staircase are so
Arnold] TOMBS AND PALACES OF CLASSIC PERSIA. 153
large that three or four steps have been hewed out of the
same piece of stone.
"We little thought when, in spite of the timid counsel of
Mr. Erskine, then British minister at Athens, we passed a
day upon the Plain of Marathon, that a few years after-
wards we should stand among the ruins of the Hall of
Darius, to which he probably returned after that unsuc-
cessful expedition against the Greek; or that when we
stood in sight of that splendid landscape, near where
" A king stood on the rocky brow
That looks o'er sea-girt Salamis,"
we should afterwards enter the magnificent ruin of the
Propykeum of this King of Xerxes at Persepolis. It is
this building which stood at the top of the grand staircase,
and the most massive of the ruins upon the platform at
Persepolis are those of this edifice. Upon the piers there
are inscriptions in cuneiform letters, which as clearly as
the winged bulls above these writings testify the relation-
ship between the Assyrians of Nineveh and the Medes of
Persepolis. The inscription is the same on each pier, and
is written in three languages. It has been translated by
Sir Henry Rawlinson into the following :
" The great god, Ahura-mazda (Ormazd) ; he it is who
has given (made) this world, who has given mankind, who
has made Xerxes king, both king of the people and law-
giver of the people. I am Xerxes the king, the great king,
the king of kings, the king of the many-peopled countries,
the supporter also of the great world, the son of King
Darius the Achsomenian. Says Xerxes the king, by the
grace of Ormazd I have made this gate of entrance (or
this public portal) , there is many another noble work be-
sides (or in) this Persepolis which I have executed, and
which my father has executed. Whatsoever noble works
154 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
are to be seen, we have executed all of them by the grace
of Ormazd. Says Xerxes the king, may Ormazd protect
me and my empire. Both that which has been executed
by me and that which has been executed by my father,
may Ormazd protect it."
This is repeated twelve times in all ; and, looking upon
the original with Sir Henry's translation in one's mind, it
is surprising how so much can be conveyed in so few letters.
Not much more than a fourth of the space which would be
required for this inscription in English is occupied by the
cuneiform letters. . . .
Upon the inner sides of the massive stones of this
"public portal" are sculptured in low-relief the massive
forms of winged bulls, some with human, others with
bovine, heads. The largest of these quadrupeds have the
human head, covered with a tiara, and on the shoulders
wings, similar in all points to those which Mr. Layard
introduced to the world from Nineveh.
Upon this vast platform at Persepolis there are remains
of at least five important buildings, — four lying to the right
of the Propylseum of Xerxes, and no two of them being
precisely upon the same level. The first of these impor-
tant buildings is the Propylseum ; and near that a staircase
(as elegant in construction, though much smaller than the
grand flights of stairs rising from the plain to the plat-
form) leads to the level of the building known as the
Great Hall of Xerxes. This name " Hall" is given in igno-
rance of its real object and design. . . .
We can see that the columns which supported the por-
tico of the Great Hall of Xerxes were of marble. Those
which remain are crowned with capitals composed of two
bulls' heads, placed neck to neck, forming an excellent rest
for the entablature. These columns are fluted, and have
upon their pedestals that ornamentation which was so long
Arnold] TOMBS AND PALACES OF CLASSIC PERSIA. 155
considered a Greek invention, — the honeysuckle, with the
bud of the locust; in fact, the decoration known every-
where as " the Greek honeysuckle."
In the north portion of this Great Hall there is still
more striking evidence of the debt which the perfection of
architecture in Greece owes to Persia, to Assyria, and pos-
sibly to Egypt. In the capitals of these columns there is an
elongated or double volute, almost identical in figure with
that which is seen upon the later buildings of Greece;
while upon the walls of door- ways there are sculptures,
truly Oriental, of kings on thrones or on foot, attended by
slaves holding the parasol of state, or the fly-chaser, equally
an emblem of royal dignity. By the Persians this hall is
called " Chehil Minar," or " Forty Columns," which is, in
fact, a common name for any columned building of grand
dimensions in Persia. The shabby old pavilion at Ispa-
han, with twenty tall columns of wood, set with grimy
mirrors, is called " Chehil Minar". . . .
The angular sides of the staircase leading to the Great
Hall of Xerxes are filled in with very powerful sculptures in
low-reliof, in which an animal of enormous strength, with
much resemblance to a lion, has fixed its teeth and claws into
the hind-quarters of a bull, which fills the higher angle of
the space by rearing and turning its uplifted head in helpless
anguish from its devourer. ... It is noticeable in the build-
ings of Perscpolis, as compared with the Parthenon, that
there is nothing resembling the continuous action displayed
in the processions upon the friezo of the Greek building.
At Perscpolis, upon the sides of the staircase and in other
places, there are processions; but, as a rule, one figure is
exactly like the next; there is no connected action. Tho
modern ornamentation of Teheran is like that of Persepolis
in this respect: a soldier occupies a panel, another soldier
of tho same pattern is seen in tho next, and so on.
156 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Arnold
The greatest of the buildings at Persepolis, the ruins of
which are known as those of " the Hall of a Hundred Col-
umns," stood behind the Great Hall of Xerxes. The bases
of the columns and part of the outer walls remain. We
can trace the regular positions of the columns, but cannot
decide whether, being of wood, they have perished ; or,
being of stone, have been carried off for the adornment of
some mosque or palace. They were certainly not very
large. The area covered by this building was consider-
able ; but neither this nor any of the buildings of Persep-
olis could have had anything like the grand proportions of
the Temple of Jupiter at Athens. . . .
The floor of the Hall of a Hundred Columns is, for the
most part, buried deep under rubbish, the washings of ages
from the neighboring mountains. Against the stoutest
blocks of the richly sculptm*ed walls this detritus lies un-
disturbed, concealing sometimes the legs of a winged bull,
at others the lower garments of a king, and how much
besides which the passing traveller cannot see nor guess.
What new lights for history, what treasures of antiquity,
may be lying within two or three feet of the surface in
these neglected ruins! In the walls of this hall there are
deep recesses or niches, the likeness of which is invariably
met with in every modern Persian home.
That portion of the platform farthest from the great
staircase and the Propylseum of Xerxes is occupied, first,
with the Palace of Darius, and, last, with the Palace of
Xerxes, and in the far background, in the side of the
mountain, originally approached by steps, is the tomb of
Darius. Above the small door-way, which lets into a cave
hewed from the solid rock, the face of the mountain is
smoothed and sculptured. In the foreground of this work
of ancient art is the crowned figure of the king, and at the
opposite end, on the same level, an altar with fire burning
Arnold] TOMBS AND PALACES OF CLASSIC PERSIA. 157
on it. Above this altar is the round full orb of the sun ;
and, hovering in mid-air, between the sun and the monarch,
is [in Professor Kawlinson's opinion] the emblematic rep-
resentation of Ahura-mazda, tho "good" god of the Medes,
the Ormazd of the inscription of Xerxes. The figure is
that of a man crowned and robed like King Darius, his
feet unsupported, his body passed through a ring, which
connects a pair of vast wings. . . .
It was only in obedience to the setting sun, the god of
the builders of Persepolis, that we reluctantly turned our
backs upon the tomb of Darius and descended by the
grand staircase to the plain. May the sun shine upon that,
the noblest work of Persepolis, in all its present complete-
ness, until it shall be in the East as it is in the West, and
thero shall be no more fear of ignorance accomplishing the
ruin of the finest ascent ever made by human hands. . . .
It is probable that [formerly] the plain across which we
rode towards the stream of the river Araxes, or Bendemeer,
was not treeless, arid, and waste as at present. We have,
indeed, good evidence that there, as in many other places,
Persia has gone backward in production. Chardin, the
French traveller, to whom the world has been so much in-
debted for its knowledge of Persia, says of this plain of
Merodasht, that it is "fertile, riche, abundante, belle, et deli-
cieuse." When we passed over it in the present year it
produced nothing but a few scrubby thorns, nibbled by tho
goats of the village of Kinara, to which our steps were
directod.
14
158 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leokowjsks
NAUTCH DANCERS AND HINDOO ACTORS.
ANNA HARRIETTE LEONOWENS.
[Few writers have described more attractively life in the East than
Mrs. Leonowens, whose unusual experience as governess at the court
of Siam gave her unwonted opportunities for the study of life and
manners in that region. Her works include " The English Governess
at the Siamese Court," " The Komance of the Harem," and " Life and
Travel in India," from the last named of which we select a description
of the home entertainments of the rich in Bombay. The travellers had
been invited to the house of one Baboo Ram Chunder, a wealthy Hin-
doo, and were received in a spacious pavilion, with a fountain and gar-
den in the centre.]
The pavilion itself was decorated in the Oriental style,
hung with kinkaub (or gold-wrought) curtains and pea-
cocks' feathers ; the floors were inlaid with mosaics of
brilliant colors ; the roofs and pillars were decorated with
rich gold mouldings ; and the whole would have been very
effective but for the melange of European ornaments that
were disposed around on the walls, tables, and shelves, —
clocks, antique pictures, statues, celestial and terrestrial
globes, and a profusion of common glassware of the most
brilliant colors.
Earn Chunder, a young man not over thirty, with re-
mai'kably courteous manners, with that refinement and
delicacy which are the distinguishing characteristics of a
high-bred Hindoo, rose and bowed before us, touching his
forehead with his folded hands, and then placed us on his
right hand. In person he was rather stout, with pecu-
liarly fine eyes and a benevolent expression of countenance,
though he was darker in complexion than most of the
Brahmans. His dress on this occasion was unusually rich
Leonowens] NAVTCH DANCERS, ETC. 159
and strikingly picturesque. lie wore trousers of a deep
crimson satin ; over this a long white muslin angraka,
or tunic, reaching almost to the knees; over this again he
wore a short vest of purple velvet embroidered with gold
braid. A scarf of finest cashmere was bound around his
waist, in the folds of which there shone the jewelled hilt
of a dagger. On his head was a white turban of stupen-
dous size encircled with a string of large pearls; on his
feet were European stockings and a pair of antique Indian
slippers embroidered with many-colored silks and fine
seed-pearls.
Thus attired, ho was a gorgeous figure, and, like a true
high-born Hindoo, he sat quietly in his place, except that
every now and then he rose and bowed with folded hands
to each guest as he entered and pointed out their places,
reseating himself quietly and simply. There was no sign
of bustle or expectation, nor any conversation to speak of.
In the course of the evening about twenty native and two or
three European gentlemen were assembled in the pavilion.
The Europeans were on the right, the native gentlemen
on the left, and Earn Chunder in the centre. No native
ladies were visible, but from the sounds of female voices
behind the curtain it was evident they were not far off.
Richly-dressed native pages, stationed at the back of
each guest, waved to and fro perfumed punkahs of peacock
and ostrich feathers. After the usual ceremony of passing
around to the guests sherbet in golden cups and pauv
siijiaree, or betel-leaf and the areca-nut done up in gold-
leaf, the performance began.
A herald dressed like a Hindoo angel, with wings, tail,
and beak of a bird and the body of a young boy, announced
with a peculiar cry, half natural and half bird-like, the
presence of the Rajpoot athletes, and in stepped some ten
men, their daggers gleaming in the dim light of the pavil-
160 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Lkonoweks
ion, which nickered on the gravelled space in front and
barely lighted the surrounding garden, in the centre of
which stood a fountain. The Eajpoots were in the prime
of life, displaying great symmetry of form and develop-
ment of muscular power. Their heads were closely shaven,
with the exception of a long lock of hair bound in a knot at
the top of their heads ; their dress consisted of a pair of red
silk drawers descending half-way to the knee and bound
tightly around the waist with a scarf of many colors.
The wrestlers advanced, performing a sort of war-dance ;
they disposed of their daggers by putting them in their
topknots ; they then salaamed before the audience and
began the contest. Each slapped violently the inside of
his arms and thighs ; then, at a given signal, each seized
his opponent by the waist. One placed his forehead against
the other's breast ; they then struggled, twisted, and tossed
each other about, showing great skill and adroitness in
keeping their feet and warding off blows. Suddenly, with
a peculiar jerk, one of the wrestlers almost at the same
moment dashed his opponent to the ground, and, drawing
forth his dagger, stood nourishing it over the fallen victim.
At this juncture a strain of music wild but tender swept
from the farther end of the pavilion, seemingly given forth
to arrest the premeditated thrust of the exultant victor.
They listen with heads slightly turned to one side ;
presently their grim, blood-thirsty expressions give place
to looks of delight and wonder. All at once their faces
break into smiles ; simultaneously they drop their uplifted
daggers, release their knees from the breasts of their pros-
trate foes, stoop, and taking a little earth from the gravelled
walk, scatter it over their heads as a sign that the victor
himself is vanquished, salaam to the spectators, and retire
amid deafening shouts of applause.
After this the musicians struck up some lively Hindoo
Leonowens] NAUTCH DANCERS, ETC. 1G1
airs, and at length the heavy curtains from one side of the
pavilion curled up like a lotus flower at sunset, and there
appeared a long line of girls advancing in a measured step
and keeping time to the music. They stood on a platform
almost facing us. Some of them were extraordinai*ily beau-
tiful, one girl in particular. The face was of the purest
oval, the features regular, the eyes large, dark, and almond-
shaped, the complexion pale olive, with a slight blush of
the most delicate pink on the cheeks, and the mouth was
half pouting and almost infantile in its round curves, but
with an expression of dejection and sorrow lingering about
the corners that told better than words of weariness of
the life to which she was doomed. For my part, it was
difficult for me to remove my eyes from that pensive and
beautiful face. Every now and then I found myself try-
ing to picture her strange life, wondering who she was and
how her parents could ever have had the heart to doom
her to such a profession.
The Nautchnees, or dancing-girls, of whom there wcro
no less than eighteen, were all dressed in that exquisite
Oriental costume peculiar to them, each one in a different
shade or in distinct colors, but so carefully chosen that
this mass of color harmonized with wonderful effect.
First, they wore bright-colored silk vests and drawers that
fitted tightly to the body and revealed a part of the neck,
arms, and legs ; a full, transparent petticoat attached low
down almost on the hips, leaving an uncovered margin all
around the form from the waist of the bodice to where the
skirt was secured on the hips; over this a saree of some
gauze-like texture bound tightly over the whole person,
the whole so draped as to eneirelc the figure like a halo
at every point, and, finally, thrown over tho head and
drooping over the face in a most bewitching veil. The
hair was combed smoothly bark and tied in a knot behind,
m.—l h*
162 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
while on the forehead, ears, neck, arms, wrists, ankles, and
toes were a profusion of dazzling ornaments.
With head modestly inclined, downcast eyes, and clasped
hands, they stood silent for some little time in strong re-
lief against a wall fretted with fantastic Oriental carvings.
The herald again gave the signal for the music to strike up.
A burst of wild Oriental melody flooded the pavilion, and
all at once the Nautchnees started to their feet. Poised on
tiptoe, with arms raised aloft over their heads, they began
to whirl and float and glide about in a maze of rhythmic
movement, fluttering and quivering and waving before us
like aspen-leaves moved by a strong breeze. It must have
cost them years of labor to have arrived at such ease and
precision of movement. The dance was a miracle of art,
and all the more fascinating because of the rare beauty of
the performers.
Then came the cup-dance, which was performed by the
lovely girl who had so captivated my fancy. She advanced
with slow and solemn step to the centre of the platform,
and taking up a tier of four or five cups fitting close into
one another, she placed this tier on her head and imme-
diately began to move her arms, head, and feet in such
gently undulating waves that one imagined the cups,
which were all the time balanced on her head, were float-
ing about her person, and seemingly everywhere except
where she so dexterously poised and maintained them.
This dance was concluded by a cup being filled with
sherbet and placed in the middle of the platform. Remov-
ing the cups from her head, the dancer, her eyes glowing,
her breast heaving, swept towards the filled cup as if drawn
to it by some spell, round and round, now approaching,
now retreating, till finally, as if unable to resist the en-
chantment, she gave one long sweep around it, and, clasp •
ing her arms tightly behind her, lay full length upon the
LeonowensJ NAUTCH DAXCERS, ETC. 163
pavement, and, taking up with her lips the brimming cup,
drained its contents without spilling a drop. Then, putting
it down empty, she rose with the utmost grace and bowed
her head before us, her arms still firmly clasped behind her.
The grace, beauty, and elegance of her movements were in-
comparable ; the spectators were too deeply interested even
to applaud her. She retired amid a profound and signifi-
cant silence to her place.
Presently a tall, slim, graceful girl took her place on the
platform with a gay smile on her face. An attendant
fastened on her head a wicker wheel about three feet in
diameter; it was bound firmly to the crown of her head,
and all around it were cords placed at equal distances, each
having a slipknot secured by means of a glass bead. In
her left hand she held a basket of eggs. When the music
struck up once more she took an egg, inserted it into a
knot, and gave it a peculiarly energetic little jerk, which
somehow fastened it firmly in its place. As soon as all
the eggs were thus firmly bound in the slipknots round
the wheel on her head, she gave a rapid whirl, sent them
flying around, while she preserved the movement with her
feet, keeping time to the music. Away she whirled, the
eggs revolving round her. The slightest false movement
would bring them together in a general crash. After
continuing this about a quarter of an hour, she seized a
cord with a swift but sure grasp, detached from it the in-
serted egg, managing the slipknot with marvellous dex-
terity, dancing all the while, till every egg was detached
and placed in her basket, after which she advanced, and,
kneeling before us, begged us to examine the eggs whether
real or fictitious. Of course the eggs were real, and she
was almost overwhelmed with shouts of "Khoup! khoup!
Mstjakal matjaka!" — "Fine! fine! beautiful!" And then
the Nailtchneea vanished from the pavilion.
164: HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
During the interval that followed the pages went round
with goulab-dhanees, or bottles with rose-water, to sprinkle
the guests.
Suddenly the cry of the herald announced a new scene.
The heavy curtain slowly folded up, and a long line of
male actors, superbly attired as Oriental kings and princes
from different parts of the East, entered and took their
places on the divans ranged along the farther end of the
pavilion. Earn Ch under approached us and informed mo
that the piece about to be represented was a pure Hindoo
drama, a beautiful episode from the Sanskrit epic Mahdbhd-
rata, called " Nalopakyanama," or the " Story of Nala."
After the kings and princes had seated themselves, in
came a string of attendants arrayed in gold and gleaming
armor, who took their places behind the royal personages
on the divans. Then came twelve maidens attired in cloth
of gold and fantastic head-gear belonging to the ancient
Vedic period. Each of these girls had a cithern in her
hands ; they disposed themselves on seats to the left of the
pavilion. After these a shrill cry of many voices an-
nounced the gods Indra, Agni, Varuna, and Yama, and in
stalked four men splendidly robed, bearing gold wands,
with serpents coiling around them, in their hands, and
lotus-shaped crowns richly jewelled on their heads. Their
raiment was one blaze of tinsel and glass jewels, made to
shine with all the brilliancy of real gems.
Then came the hero Nala, with faded flowers on his
tiara, dust on his garments, and looking picturesque enough
with his bright scarf thrown across his shoulders, but
travel-stained and very commonplace in the presence of
so much gold and finery.
[Damayanti, the matchless beauty whom Nala loved, had been
sought as a queen by each of the four gods. She had invited all her
suitors to be present, that she might, according to custom, make public
Leonowexs] NAUTCII DANCERS, ETC. 1G5
choice of a husband. She had promised Nala to choose him in the
presence of the gods themselves. But the curtain fell, and when it
rose again there were five Nalaa instead of one, the gods having trans-
formed themselves to bewilder the poor maiden, and perhaps force her
to choose one of them for her future husband.]
The music at this point rose and fell, now vibrating in
low, tender accents, and anon rising in wild, startling em-
phasis of expression. At this moment the curtain parted,
and there stood the cup-dancer with her quiet but en-
trancing beauty. Calmly she entered, looking down and
meditating, as we were told, on the object of her affections.
Her dress was exquisite of its kind and character ; I never
saw its counterpart on a Nautchnee before or after. It
was a long gown without sleeves, falling from her shoul-
ders to her feet, open at the throat, exposing a part of the
neck and breast and the whole arm from the shoulder. It
was very full, but of the most delicate texture, revealing
the whole outline of a very lovely form. A bright border
of variegated silk ran down the front and round the hem
of this ancient Vedic garment, and it was fastened at the
waist by a rich silk scarf. Her hair fell back, flowing
down to her feet ; on her head was a curious crown of an
antique pattern, and over it all was thrown a long veil
that streamed on the floor, and was of such a transparent
texture that it looked like woven sunbeams.
Such was the impersonation of the Vedic beauty Daraa-
yanti. When she reached the centre of the circular pa-
vilion, she lifted her eyes, and, seeing five Nalas instead of
one, started backward, clasped her lovely arms on her
bosom, and, rocking herself gently to and fro, moaned,
"Alas! alas! there are five Nalas. all so like my own truo
sinless chief. How shall 1 discover the one to whom alone
I have pledged my undying love?"
At this juncture the music ceased, and a deep silence fell
166 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
upon the audience. Every eye was riveted on that lovely
creature seemingly overcome with the tide of sorrow and
uncertainty that swept over her. Suddenly pausing in her
moan, she turned up her fine eyes to the sky, and with
some new inward light dawning as it were upon her
troubled soul, said audibly, " To the gods alone I will trust.
If they are indeed gods they will not deceive a poor mortal
woman like me."
Then, quivering and trembling, with flushed cheeks and
lustrous eyes, she folded her hands and knelt in reverence
before the gods and prayed aloud, and said, " O ye gods,
as in word or thought I swerve not from my love and faith
to Nala, so I here adjure you to resume your immortal
forms and reveal to me my Nala, that I may in your holy
presence choose him for my pure and sinless husband."
Kneeling there with her face turned up, her hands folded,
the outlines of her beautiful form made even more lovely
by the half-softened halo of light shed over her from above,
she seemed like some beautiful vision, and not a thing of
flesh and blood. I never witnessed anything more truly
exquisite and tender in its simple womanhood than this
rendering of the beautiful Vedic character of Damayanti.
Again the voices of the musicians were heard inter-
preting for us the thoughts and feelings of the gods : " We
are filled with wonder at her steadfast love and peer-
less beauty," etc. Once more the curtain is dropped, and
presently it folds up again, revealing the forms of the four
bright gods as at first in all the splendor of their robes,
crowned and flashing with jewels, and fragrant with the
garlands of fresh flowers that hang around their necks.
Damayanti rose from her bended knees. With pleased
and childlike wonder she gazed at the gods one moment,
then turned to her own time Nala, who stood before her in
striking contrast to the gods, with moisture on his brow,
Moore] MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECTURE. 167
dust on his garments, soiled bead-dress, and faded garland.
But on recognizing him as the true Nala, she folded her
hands in sudden rapture and gave a cry of joy ; then,
removing from her own neck her garland of mohgree-
flowers, moved with quiet grace towards her lover, knelt
and kissed the hem of his dusty robe, arose and threw
around his neck her own fresh, radiant wreath of flowers,
saving, "So I choose for my lord and husband Nishadah's
noble king."
At this speech a sound of wild sorrow burst from the
rejected suitors, but the gods shouted, " Well done ! well
done!" Then the happy Nala, turning to the blushing
Damayanti, said, " Since, O maiden, you have chosen mo
for your husband in the presence of the gods, know this,
that I will ever be your faithful lover, delight in your
words, your looks, your thoughts, and so long as this soul
inhabits this body, so long as the moon turns to the sun,
till the sun grows cold and ceases to shine, so long shall I
be thine, and thine only."
One more loud shout from the herald, the curtain dropped,
the play and the day were over, for it was just twelvo
o'clock.
THE MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECTURE.
JOSEPH MOORE.
[From "The Queen's Empire ; or, Ind and her Pearl," by Joseph
Moore, Jr., we select the following appreciative descriptions of the
strikingly beautiful monuments of Mohammedan architecture in India.
These, erected during the period of the Mogul empire in that country,
have ever since been objects of universal admiration, and to one of
them in particular, the famous Taj Mahal, is given the palm of being
the most artistically perfect and delicately beautiful of all the archi-
tectural works of man's hands. Our selections begin with a descrip-
tion of Delhi and its remains.]
168 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
One sweep to the northeast from Jcypore brought us to
Delhi, the capital of the extinct Mogul Empire, the Mecca
of the East. What a train of thought is suggested by its
very name ! With a history dating back to the mythical
period of the early Aryans, it was destroyed seven times
and as often rose again to dominion and grandeur.
Here the Pathans of Ghuzni, under Mohammed Ghery,
founded (a.d. 1193) the Muslim empire of India, and two
centuries later (1398) the ruthless Tamerlane came with
his fanatical hordes to burn, plunder, and drench the
streets with blood. Next the Sultan Baber, the descendant
of Zhenghis Khan and Tamerlane, crossed the Indus and
established the Mogul throne (1526) in the conquered
city. This memorable dynasty continued to flourish, with
only one interruption, and with increasing lustre, for a
hundred and eighty years, under a succession, unprece-
dented in Indian history, of six sovereigns distinguished
by their gallantry in the field, and, with one exception,
by their ability in the cabinet.
This galaxy of successful though cruelly rapacious and
utterly unprincipled rulers consists of Baber, Humayoon,
Akbar, Jehangeer, Shah Jehan, and Aurungzebe. About
these names cluster the relics of the power and splendor
of the Great Moguls, the superb monuments of dazzling
extravagance by which travellers are chiefly drawn to the
imperial seats of Delhi and Agra.
Modern Delhi is the work of the Emperor Shah Jehan
(1627-1658), a monarch celebrated for the splendor of his
tastes, for the order of his finances, and for his love of
building. As the new city approached completion he left
Agra, whither the great Akbar had removed his court, and
Delhi again became the Mogul capital.
The Fort, or citadel, — which contains the palace, now
partly destroyed, the exquisite marble gem known as the
Moore] MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECTURE. 1G9
Pearl Mosque, the luxurious baths, and the lavish pavilions
of state, — is the finest in India. Its gate-ways are in
themselves imposing structures, and the lofty castellated
walls of red sandstone describe a circuit of more than a
mile. Within the enclosure of the city are the famous
shalimar gardens, now called the Queen's, beyond which
the inmates of the zenana, or harem, never passed. The
culmination of all this magnificence is reached in the De-
wan-i-Khas, or Hall of Private Audience, which overlooks
the river Jumna and the plain. This edifice is of marble,
open at the sides, and supported by massive square columns,
the whole being adorned with mosaics of costly stones and
inlaid gold. Adjoining it are the private apartments of the
sovereign, where the pierced marble screens, wrought in
floral designs, are of startling richness.
In this hall stood the renowned Peacock Throne, which
was plundered by the Persians, a mass of solid gold fianked
by two peacocks with distended tails, all studded with dia-
monds and rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and pearls. The
value of this wonder was estimated at six crores, or sixty
millions of rupees, nominally thirty millions of dollars.
On the cornices of the marble platform which bore the
throne is the Persian inscription which Thomas Moore
introduced so effectively in " The Light of the Harem" :
" If there be an Elysium on earth,
It is this, it is this."
Shah Jehan was not long permitted to enjoy the grandeur
he had created. During an illness which brought him to
the point of death, his four sons became involved in a bitter
conflict for the succession ; and so far had it been carried
by the time of his recovery that he was unable to resume
his authority. The bold and subtle Aurungzcbo over-
powered all resistance, dethroned his father, and im-
h 15
170 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
prisoned the fallen monarch in the fort at Agra. There
he spent the remaining seven years of his life, within
sight of that sublime mausoleum, the Taj, which he had
reared to the memory of the adored wife of his youth.
Despite this heartless act, to which he added the death
of his brothers, Aurungzebe lived to reign almost half a
century (1658-1707), and to wage a war of intolerance
for twenty-five years. But the close of his career was
tortured by suspicion, gloom, and remorse, and after his
death the strained empire began to decline.
Lalla Eookh was the daughter of this cruel prince, and
it was from the gate of the fort, already noticed, that she
set out upon the journey to reach her future husband in
the Vale of Cashmere. The day of her " departure was
as splendid as sunshine and pageantry could make it.
The bazaars were all covered with the richest tapestry,
hundreds of gilded barges upon the Jumna floated with
their banners shining in the water, while through the
streets groups of children went strewing the most de-
licious flowers around. And as Aurungzebe stood to
take a last look from his balcony, the procession moved
slowly on the road to Lahore."
Although Ireland's sweetest lyrist never visited the East,
the scene he pictures may have been enacted at Delhi a cen-
tury before his generation. But if his studies of forgotten
writers have not prompted him to exaggerate, as in many
instances, how completely has everything changed 1 Not
a shred of the pomp he sketches is now to be seen. . . .
Delhi is yet the revered centre of the forty millions of Mus-
lims in India. Their cathedral mosque, the Jumna Mus-
jid, is the most imposing religious edifice in the Peninsula.
It is built of red stone, and stands on an elevated terrace,
approached by a lofty flight of steps. Upon passing any
of the three gates we enter an immense paved quadrangle,
Moore] MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECTURE. 171
with a marble reservoir in the middle, and surrounded by a
cloistered colonnade.
The mosque itself, on the western side of the enclosure,
is surmounted by three bulbous domes of white marble,
flanked by two high minarets constructed of alternate
vertical stripes of marble and red sandstone. " The
whole," says Fergusson, "forms a group intelligible at the
first glance, and, as an architectural object, possesses a
variety of outline and play of light and shade which few
buildings can equal." ...
Delhi has now less than two hundred thousand popula-
tion, but it once had almost two millions. The remains of
the cities which preceded the present one are strewn in
profusion over the neighboring plain, covering a distance
of nearly sixty square miles. Temples and mosques,
tombs and palaces, walls and forts, are here crumbling and
falling unheeded and deserted.
In the midst of this decay is the magnificent Kootub
Minar, the loftiest independent tower on the globe, except-
ing the Washington Monument. Although it has stood
nearly seven hundred years, time has scarcely marred this
noblo achievement of Pathan architecture, unquestionably
one of the wonders of the mediaeval world. It far sur-
passes either the Campanile of Florence or the Giralda of
Seville, while the tower of the Kremlin, probably the
highest in Europe, is unworthy of comparison, because of
its inferior construction.
We spent two days in exploring this vast area of ruins,
and marvelled at the infinite waste which man has committed
in the name of religion and through vain efforts to perpetu-
ate his own memory. The moral of this sumptuous wreck,
the fabrics of wealth wrung from the poor, is written in the
eternal law of nations that the era of luxury is the herald
of decline. A conquered race, dragging out a most abject
172 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
existence, peoples this land of fabled riches, and the vacant
thrones of the tyrant Moguls, symbols of a "Paradise
lost," stand in the gorgeous halls of state, waiting for Old
Mortality to inscribe them with the words of Milton, —
" They themselves ordained their fall."
As we rolled away from Delhi and crossed the Jumna
bridge, the young crescent faintly illuminated the snowy
domes of the immaculate Pearl Mosque. In the distance
we could distinguish the tall memorial column on the
commanding ridge from which British guns thundered
their command to the mutineers to yield the stolen city.
When the train halted for a moment on the bridge, wo
caught the martial notes of the English bugler within the
embattled citadel of the splendor-loving Shah Jehan. The
exquisite marble balcony, in which the Great Moguls sat
to review their legions, was vacant, and the parade-plain be-
neath as silent and peaceful as the shallow, winding Jumna.
[From Delhi we pass to Lahore, another city identified with the
splendor of Mogul rule in India.]
Lahore, the present capital of the Punjaub, holds an im-
portant place in Mogul history, and the plain which sur-
rounds it, like that of Delhi, is marked with the ruins of
its departed greatness. It was the chosen residence of the
Emperor Jehangeer, whose splendid mausoleum, richly
decorated with mosaics, stands on the opposite banks of
the river Kavee from the city. Before his accession to the
throne this prince was called Selim, the name under which
he appears in "Lulla Kookh" as the estranged lover of
Noor Mahal, the " Light of the Harem." But history pre-
sents a different story of this couple from that woven by
the poet's fancy. Jehangeer, who was a drunkard and of
cruel instincts, already had four wives when he fell in love
Moore] MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECTURE. 173
with the beautiful Noor Mahal. She was the daughter of a
Persian adventurer named Itmadood-Dowlah, who after-
wards became prime minister of the empire. The great
Akbar, father of the prince, interfered and despatched the
girl to Bengal, where she married one Sher Ufgun.
When Akbar died, Jehangeer sent for the object of his
affection. Her husband naturally objected to the transfer,
so he was put to the sword to remove the difficulty. The
lady was then brought to Agi'a, where the Emperor
awaited her, but she indignantly refused his advances.
This was the "something light as air" which Moore, with
rosy imagination, has transformed into a more lovers' tiff,
upon the occasion of the Feast of Roses in the shalimar
gardens at Cashmere.
The lady's ambition, however, shortly allaj^ed her scorn-
ful anger and obscured the memory of her murdered hus-
band. She wedded the sanguinary suitor, and was raised
to the throne as the favorite Empress. At this time she
was a woman of middle age. In addition to these realisms,
the veil of romance in which Moore has enveloped her is
further rent by the fact that she was a virago, and given
to unscrupulous political intrigue.
On the other hand, it must be stated that husband and
wife were very devotedly attached to each other. When
the Emperor died he was profoundly mourned by Noor
Mahal, who reared the costly tomb in which she was after-
wards laid by his side. . . .
One relic of that storied past yet exists in all its luxu-
rious beauty, — Shah Jehan's House of Joy, the Shalimar
Gardens. We wandered through the orange-groves and
erotic retreats of this elysium, picturing in our imagina-
tion the days of history and of song, when the marble
pavement were trodden by the houris of the zenana, and
the five hundred fountains, strung in endless vista, tcrraco
174 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
upon terrace, threw their sparkling jets into the sunshine
to greet the august presence of the Great Mogul.
[One more Mogul city we need to visit in search of these memorials
of Saracenic taste, — Akhar's splendid capital of Agra.]
When we arrived at Agra the great Mohammedan fes-
tival of the Moharram was at its height. In the bazaars,
the shops of the Muslims and of many of the Hindus were
closed, and the streets thronged with people in gay holi-
day attire. Nautch girls, wives, and daughters, all decked
with the showy trinkets of the East, filled the windows
and balconies, waiting for the culminating pageant of the
day. As the procession approached, the crowd surged
towards its head, and the excitement became intense. . . .
Agra is essentially a Mogul city, and nowhere are the
wealth and splendor of that oppressive dynasty evinced to
a greater degree than in its sumptuous monuments. Here
Akbar located his capital and built the imposing citadel
which overhangs the Jumna. Within its crenellated walls,
a mile and a half in circuit, stand the architectural gems,
some in a condition of ruin, which attest the magnificence
of the imperial court. After passing the massive gate- way
of the enclosure, itself a fortress, and crossing a garden,
we come to the Hall of Public Audience. Next we enter
the zenana, where the beauty of the East was once gath-
ered, and then the luxurious baths, all lavishly adorned,
which resemble the cool retreats and sprinkling fountains
of the Alhambra. One of these chambers and its passages,
called the Palace of Glass, are decorated with little mirrors,
similar to the room at Ambher.
The Hall of Private Audience consists of two pavilions,
smaller than the one at Delhi and more of the Hindu style,
but almost as richly finished. Here we found the Black
Throne of Akbar, upon which we coiled ourselves in Ori-
Moore] MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECTURE. 175
ental fashion, without, however, feeling like a Great
Mogul
Then follow the elegant private apartments of the Em-
peror, and pavilions, kiosks, and balconies overlooking the
river, seventy feet below, all of snowy marble, with ex-
quisite fretted lattices of the same material and inlaid with
mosaics of precious stones.
Xear by is the immaculate Pearl Mosque, which is much
larger than its queenly namesake at Delhi. Although purely
Saracenic in style, this edifice depends for its exalted ef-
fect upon absolute simplicity of outline and graceful propor-
tion, eschewing almost all ornament. The whole is of white
marble, from the pavement of the court to the three crown-
ing domes, " silvery bubbles which have rested a moment
on its walls, and which the next breeze will sweep away."
Even while the Fort was in process of construction,
Akbar was engaged in rearing a stupendous summer estab-
lishment about twenty miles from Agra.
The ruins of this city, for such it is, are within a walled
park, seven miles in circumference, embracing the present
villages Fullebpur and Sikri. The plateau of a long, rocky
hill, in the centre of the enclosure, was selected for the
court, and upon this site arose a prodigal array of stately
piles. Eed sandstone is the prevailing material, but con-
siderable marble was also used. Many of these structures
are yet intact, while others exist in a state of partial decay.
According to the statements of early travellers, Akbar
once intended this " most noble city" for his seat of govern-
ment. Scarcely, however, was it completed before he
quitted the place for sanitary reasons. Palaces and
mosques, zenanas and baths, walls and towers, tombs and
gate-ways, pavilions, courts, and halls, built with the money
and the labor of his subjects, were thus abandoned to
neglect and decline.
176 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
This transition seems to have owed its ci'eation to the
advice of a fakir, or holy mendicant, named Shekh Selim,
— whose marble tomb stands in the quadrangle of the
mosque, — to commemorate the birth of the child that be-
came the Emperor Jehangeer. Legend has interwoven its
story with the history of this event, but in whatever light
it may be viewed, we must conclude that Akbar either
abetted a fraud or yielded to the baldest supei'stition.
But with all his faults Akbar was the greatest prince
that ever sat on the throne of the Moguls. Although con-
stantly at war, he never lost a battle. During his reign
the dominion of the empire was vastly extended, and wise
reforms were successfully introduced. While a Mohamme-
dan by birth and education, he was tolerant of all religions.
At one time he inclined to a belief in Christ, when he mar-
ried the alleged Christian lady, the Miriam of Whittier's
exquisite poem, whose tomb is pointed out near his own
superb mausoleum at Secundra, a short drive from Agra.
He invited Hindus to accept civil and military offices, and
chose two wives of that faith.
Akbar's efforts to establish religious equality led him to
devise an eclectic creed, which sought to unite the followers
of Christ, of Zoroaster, of Brahma, and of Mohammed. In
this impossible task he naturally encountered failure, and
the abnormal system died with its founder.
Every department of his court was sustained upon a
scale of splendor before unknown in India. Under him
and his successors Agra blended the magnificence of the
palaces of Nineveh and the temples of Babylon with the
enchantments of the sylvan elysium of Cashmere.
Yet after the recital of all this wondrous grandeur the
crowning glory of Agra and of India remains to be told.
The incomparable Taj Mahal, that peerless marvel of love,
of skill, of patience, of beauty, of treasure, and of power;
Moore] MARVELS OF MOGUL ARCHITECT V RE. 177
the faultless, dazzling mausoleum which Shah Jehan raised
to the memory of his beautiful idolized consort, in accord-
ance with a promise made beside her death-bed. As a last
request she begged of him a memorial befitting a queen.
In response he vowed to rear above her remains a sepulchre
that the world should hold matchless.
More than two centuries have elapsed since this shrine
of affection was completed. Attracted by its fame, in that
period travellers from every clime have journeyed to Agra
to behold the jewelled wonder. Man is critical either from
instinct or pedantry, but a single voice is yet to deny that
Shah Jehan has redeemed the fullest measure of his
pledge. ...
Entering a magnificent gate-way, we find ourselves in a
garden which rivals the charms of Shalimar. Before us
stretches a lengthy avenue of the trembling cypress, along
the middle of which a row of fountains toss their slender
jets high into the stilly air, — a superb vista, a third of a
mile long. At the extreme end, partially obscured by the
abundant foliage, rises the Taj, so white and dazzling that
it seems to be the source of the sunlight which crowns it
like an aureole.
Approaching it, we mount a broad terrace of rod sand-
stone, upon which are two mosques of the same material,
one on each side. From this base we ascend to a smaller
platform of polished marble, whereon four towering mina-
rets, snowy and graceful, dart upward from the corners.
In the centre of this fitting pedestal stands the Taj, radiant
and of spotless white.
The edifice is square, but as the corners are truncated it
might also be called octagonal. Surmounting it is a sym-
metrical, bulbous dome, flanked by four lesser bulbs raised
on delicate pavilions. A lofty arched entrance and twin
pairs of smaller arches pierce each of the four identical
in. — m
178 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
fagades, adding an air of lightness and plasticity to fault-
less proportions.
Tho walls of the exterior, not less than within, are
lavishly embellished with inlaid vines and flowering texts
from the Muslim scriptures. Indeed, it is credibly stated
that the entire Koran is thus placed upon the mausoleum.
Everywhere the finish is like that of a jewel-case, in
supreme forgetfulness of toil or treasure.
We enter the rotunda, and stand thrilled by a beauty
and solemnity which pass all expression. Lost in admira-
tion, we unconsciously speak, and instantly the guardian
Echo catches up the note and carries it round and round
the lofty vault, calling it back softer and softer, as if not
to wake the dead, until it fades into profound silence.
Windows of marble lace temper the light within, harmo-
nizing it with the religious sentiment which pervades the
tomb.
Directly beneath the dome is the cenotaph of the Em-
press, covered with mosaics of flowers and foliage, wrought
in turquoise and jasper, carnelian and sard, chalcedony
and agate, lapis lazuli and jade, blood-stone onyx and
heliotrope. Beside it is that of the Emperor, similarly
adorned. Surrounding them is a screen of marble filigree
elaborate and delicate beyond all conception.
In a vault below the central hall is the inlaid sarcopha-
gus which contains the ashes of the lady of the Taj, —
Moontaz-i-Mahal, the Exalted One of the Harem. There,
also, close to the bride of his youth, rests the faithful Shah
Jehan. Deathless love joined for evermore.
We came by moonlight to this sanctuary, when all was
silent save the rippling of the Jumna, which flows by its
side ; and, walking round the shimmering pile, confessed
that " the rare genius of the calm building finds its way
unchallenged to the heart."
Cumminq] BOAR-HUNTING IN INDIA. 179
BOAR-HUNTING IN INDIA.
W. GORDON CUMMING.
[The Gordon Cummings have been men of might with the rifle and
spear in the adventurous life of the hunting-field. Koualeyn Gordon
Cuniming, in his " Five Years of a Hunter's Life," in South Africa,
has placed himself on record as a man of might and daring, in contests
with the lion, elephant, and other dangerous game. A younger scion
of the family, Lieutenant-Colonel W. Gordon Cumming, has made as
fine a record among the tigers and other game animals of India. We
subjoin some of his adventures in the chase of the wild boar.]
At the time I write of we had an institution culled " The
Hunt," got up for the furtherance of hog-hunting, and a
small monthly sum was collected from subscribers. With
this the Hunt paid for a shikaree, whose duty it was to go
about the country and ascertain where pigs were to be had
in rideable ground. On hunting daj^s half the cost of the
beaters was also defrayed out of this fund, the other half
being paid by the sportsmen present. The meets generally
lasted from four to six days, — alternate days being devoted
to hunting and shooting.
The locality being fixed on, the mess-tent was sent out,
and every man intending to be present sent on his servants
with a small sleeping-tent and a goodly store of provender
of all kinds — both solid and fluid — and as many horses and
ponies as he could muster. The shikaree and his assistants
were out long before daybreak, and took up positions in
trees whence they could watch the pigs as they returned
to the coverts from their feeding-grounds. By eight
o'clock he generally reappeared, and gave in his report to
the captain of the Hunt, by whom the programme for the
day was arranged. . . .
180 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Ctjmmixo
The appearance of our camp was highly effective. It
was generally situated in some grove of grand old man-
goes. . . . By half-past ten we were in the saddle, and
seldom had far to go before reaching the covert-side. . . .
Pigs were always plentiful, and on the alternate days there
was abundance of game of all kinds, for both gun and
rifle. . . .
The field was generally well attended, and sharp contests
for the honor of the first spear were numerous. At times
this emulation led to hot and strong discussions ; for in the
excitement of a chase, when several pigs were on foot at
once, and when, possibly, the hunted boar might be changed
during the run, it was not always an easy matter to say
whose spear had drawn first blood.
In some parts of the Dougurwah country there were
dense thorny thickets which, though of no great extent,
were quite impenetrable for horsemen, and on a wounded
boar gaining the shelter of one of these, there was much
difficulty in dislodging him. We had had a severe run
after a very large old boar; he was badly speared, but
managed to reach one of these, and all our attempts to in-
duce him again to break cover were in vain. The beaters
came up and advanced with fiendish yells, blowing horns
and beating drums. Stones were showered into the bush,
and a sharp fire of blank cartridge was kept up by a party
of the Guzerat Kolee corps who had accompanied us. The
boar, however, knew the strength of his position, and re-
fused to show himself again in the open ground. He might,
of course, have been shot, but such a proceeding would
have been regarded in the same light as the shooting of
a fox in Leicestershire ; so, as we could not in honor ride
away and leave him, it was agreed that we should dismount
and go in at him on foot with our spears.
The project was a rash one, for though a spear is a handy
Cummino] BOAR-HCXTIXG IN INDIA. 181
weapon when used from horseback in open ground, it is
not quite so suitable when going in at an infuriated boar in
a tangled thicket of thorns and long grass. We did not,
however, give this part of the matter much consideration.
We were about eight in number, and in the event of any
one of us being in difficulties, we relied on our comrades.
The boar had taken his stand in the centre of the thicket,
which was some fifty yards across, and we moved slowly in
on him, with our spears shortened and pointed in advance.
My greatest danger seemed to be from my neighbor on the
left, who, relinquishing his spear, had armed himself with
a sharp-pointed, crooked sword, which he had taken from
one of the beaters, and which he held over his shoulder in
painful proximity to my countenance.
Towards the centre of the thicket the ground was some-
what clearer, and most fortunately the boar selected the
moment at which we gained this spot to make his charge.
With savage grunts he came crashing down on us, and
evidently intended to make an ugly hole in some one, but
we stood steady, and the nearest spears were buried in his
chest and shoulders. His weight and impetus were great,
and the tough bamboo spear-shafts bent under the strain,
but we closed in on him, and he yielded up his gallant spirit.
The beaters crowded in and bore him from his lair, and,
on reaching the open ground, proceeded to gralloch. On
removing the intestines, a large quantity of blood was
found in the carcass. Diving their hands into the bod}-,
they scooped out the warm blood and drunk it greedily,
wiping their ensanguined fingers in their long beards and
moustaches. The effect was truly startling, and for all that
I can say to the contrary, it may have been very good
tipple.
Many of these men carried "boomerangs," a weapon 1
havo never seen used in any other part of India. It was
l(i
182 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Ccmminq
made of heavy, dark wood, two inches broad, three-quar-
ters of an inch thick, and about two and a half feet long,
sharpened at the edges. These are thrown with great
force, and would not infrequently knock over hares and
partridges as they rose during the beat. . . .
Old boars are often very cunning, and will hang back
in a thicket when the rest of the sounder breaks, stealing
quietly off when the field is in hot pursuit of some of the
smaller pigs. As a rule, they do not give so fast a run as a
young boar or a long-legged sow ; but when brought to
bay they are awkward customers, and frequently leave
their mark on their pursuers. Our beaters were ripped
on several occasions, but fortunately the wounds were not
severe, and were confined to the legs. The cut of a boar's
tusk is peculiar, and is generally of the form of the letter
L, like a tear in woollen cloth. Although when charging
they come on with savage grunts, they seldom cry out
when speared ; and a pig who dies with a squeal is generally
regarded as an ignoble beast, having in his veins the blood
of domestic ancestors.
I remember a joke played off on a man whose deeds
in the saddle were not supposed to lose aught of their
importance by his own description of them. Some young-
sters of the cantonment, having purchased a village pig,
had been in the habit of sending it out a mile or two in a
cart, and hunting it home with long bamboos. By this
course of training the piggy acquired wind and some
degree of speed. At length, on a day appointed, he was
taken out and secured by the leg in the covert. The usual
party, with the addition of the mighty hunter, were
assembled at the mess tiffin, when a native came up and
reported a fine boar marked down. Horses and spears
were called for, and, with the guide in advance, all pro-
ceeded to the jungle-side.
Cummixg] BOAR-HUNTING IN INDIA. 183
Nimrod announced his intention of refraining from all
active part in the proceedings, on the ground that it would
be unfair for an old experienced hunter like himself to
take the spear from a lot of young fellows to whom the
sport was new. He was, however, assured that, without
his valuable aid, the game would probably escape, and it
was therefore hoped he would not practise such extreme
self-denial.
On the riders taking up their positions, men were sent to
frco the obscene beast, which speedily appeared; and, in
expectation of the customary chevy, made off at its best
pace. By judicious management, all the field got thrown
out with the exception of Nimrod, who was seen riding
like a man, and coming up to the pig, hand over hand.
Making a well-directed thrust, with a triumphant shout,
he speared the beast, and a few more thrusts rolled it over.
The other riders now gathered round the redoubtable
hunter, who was seen standing by the prostrate ganm-
tee, waving his cap and brandishing his blood-red spear.
" Gentlemen," he cried, " it was too bad of me ! but really
when I saw the boar break cover, my blood got up, and I
was quite unable to restrain myself."
At this moment a lager, who had been previously well
coached, came running up and demanded payment for his
property. It was long before Nimrod again entertained
the mess with his hunting exploits.
Although large boars often showed fight and gave
trouble, at times they were laid low by a single spear.
One morning we were hunting in a difficult country,
covered with scrub bush, through which it was difficult to
urge a horse at great speed, when a stout young boar was
seen crossing the cover at some distance ahead. lie was
going at a sharp pace, and as he already had a good start,
the word to ride was at once given. Away we went,
184 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cumming
threading through the bush at a smart gallop. Hearing
us coming up, the boar halted for a moment, and again
started off. We now settled down to the work, and were
gaining on him, when one of our party, who had been at
some distance from us when we started, came down on
the pig at a right angle.
The boar never swerved, but apparently charged straight
ahead, and with the intention of cutting the fore legs of
the horse from under him. How the horse escaped wo
could not imagine. The boar seemed to cross under his
neck, and both were going at their best pace. In an in-
stant the rider dropped the point of his spear between the
shoulders of the boar, and with a convulsive struggle it
rolled over, quite dead.
The thorns through which we hunted told heavily on
the legs of the horses, and they were often much swollen
after a hard day's work. A favorite remedy was the red
earth from the nests of white ants boiled with the leaves
of the neem-tree, till the whole formed into a thick paste.
With this the legs were plastered, from above the knees
downward; and the mud, on drying, formed a sort of
bandage round the leg. In the early morning the horses
were often taken down to the nearest tank, and kept
standing for fifteen minutes in the cold water. These
combined remedies seemed to draw out the thorns to the
surface, whence many were extracted by careful horse-
keepers ; and I have seen a man come up with the back
of his curry-comb covered with large thorns, which he had
picked from the legs of the horse under his charge.
[We shall conclude with Colonel Cumming's narrative of an ex-
citing chase on the banks of the Samburmuttee River. They had
seen a very large boar crossing the broad shallow stream, and making
for a cypress covert on its other bank. They put the shikarees on his
track.]
Cumming] BOAR-IIUNTING IN INDIA. 185
Leaving the river, he had made a detour of about two
miles in the open country, which, though cultivated, was
at this season quite bare of crops. Our men were equal
to the occasion, and taking up the track they moved
quickly along, scoring the ground at every few yards with
a short stick across the print of the boar's hoofs. We now
found that he was crossing a wide bend in the river, and
that the tracks would again fall into the bed of the stream.
The trackers moved fast and sure, and we followed close in
their wake with the crowd of beaters. At length we came
to where a smaller stream joined the river, and on the
ground between the two was a crop of irrigated maize,
about ten feet in height, and looking very cool and green.
The smaller sti'eam was about fifteen yards in width, slow
and sluggish, having about a foot of water, and an equal
amount of black mud below it.
We had crossed and sent the beaters to the end next
the junction of the streams, when we heard much yelling
and shouting, and next moment the boar came out at speed
and dashed down the slope into the stream we had just
crossed. Bulkley was only a few yards from him, and,
driving in his spurs, he rushed down the bank, regardless
or forgetful of the muddy bottom. His horse seemed to
turn heels over head, and as I checked mine and floundered
slowly across, he was picking himself out of the black
mud and shaking his steed to his legs again. He bad lost
his hunting-cap, and his spear was buried in the grimy
slush. I reached the bank in safety, and, gathering up my
galloway, I went on after the boar. From his great size
and weight I was sure he would make a good fight, and I
saw I had work cut out for me, so I determined not to irri-
tate him with a minor poke, but, if possible, to disable or
check him till such time as my friend should emerge from
the mud and come to my assistance.
1G*
186 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cumming
As the boar went along at an easy canter, I saw that I
should have no difficulty in overhauling him. We were
going up the side of a field, having a high mud-bank on our
right, and, watching my opportunity, I lowered my spear
and pressed my horse with the spur. In an instant I was
alongside of the boar, and had my spear within a few
inches of his shoulder, when, with a savage grunt, he made
a sidelong charge at my horse. The spear took him in the
neck and checked him, but with a sudden wrench he broko
the bamboo shaft, leaving the head embedded in his muscles.
Turning my horse sharp to the left, I got clear away, but,
having only the headless spear-shaft in my hand, my offen-
sive powers were at an end, and I saw that my only hope
of getting the boar lay in my being able to keep him in
view till my friend should rejoin me.
In this way we held on over many fields. At times I
pursued and tried to turn the boar; at others he pursued
me, and then I was forced to " advance backward." Still
no signs of my friend, and I began to fear that either ho
or his horse had been seriously damaged. The boar had
nearly reached the spot from which we had first started
him in the morning, and as he went down the steep bank
into the cypress cover I pulled up in despair.
At that moment I saw Bulkley coming along at a hand-
gallop, and with a frantic yell I again set off after the boar.
Aided by Bulkley, I succeeded in turning him towards the
water, into which he hurled himself and lay still, appar-
ently dead-beat. Springing from his horse, Bulkley lowered
his spear and ran in at him, but the boar rose and charged.
He was stopped by a thrust in the neck, but his great
weight broke the bamboo, and though Bulkley managed to
get away unscathed, we had no spears, and were now
powerless for all purposes of attack. Unwilling to leave
the wounded beast, and hoping that some of our men with
Cumming] BOAR-HUNTING IN INDIA. 187
spare spears would soon come up, wo followed him slowly
down the river, and, seeing some cultivators irrigating their
fields near the banks, Bulkley rodo off to them in the hope
of obtaining some offensive weapon.
Presently he came back armed with a short, crooked
sword, but by this time the boar was going down a part of
the river where he had an abrupt bank six feet in height
on his immediate left. Bulkley vainly tried to force him
out, as he found it impossible to reach him with the short
sword. At length he made a cut, but the boar charging at
the same moment, ripped his horse in the fore leg; and
finding that he could not again get him to go near the pig,
he handed me the sword and I took up the running.
We had come to a tributary stream, joining the river at
right angles. Into this we plunged, and as the boar swam
almost on a level with my saddle, I rose in the stirrups and
made a cut at him with all the force I could muster. Had
the w r eapon served me truly, I should have laid the boar in
two halves ; but the blade of the sword, being merely
fastened into the hilt with lac, fell out, and the pig turned
on me. I had just time to fend him off with my hand,
receiving as I did so a slight cut over the thumb from his
tusk.
Wheeling my horse round, I got away from him, when
he crossed the stream, and turning up the other bank, left
the main river. By this time he was nearly exhausted,
and our shikaree appeared on the scene, having followed
the run on foot. Another sword was procured from some
cultivators. The shikaree carried his own, and one of his
men had an iron-bound club. Leaving our panting steeds,
we made a simultaneous rush on the boar as he stood at
bay in the water. He made a last charge, but the swords
cut fairly this time, and the huge beast succumbed.
I have been in at the death of many boars, but I never
188 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
saw a run so full of excitement as that which I have now
endeavored to describe.
[Boar-hunting does not seem to be as dangerous a sport to the
hunters in India as it is often described as being in Europe. The
horses frequently receive injuries, and the beaters are often severely-
hurt by the tusks of the savage brutes ; but so far as the sportsmen
themselves are concerned, the story is a somewhat monotonous one of
killing of boars and triumph of hunters.]
CAVES OF ELLORA AND CITY OF NASHIK.
ANNA HARRIETTE LEONOWENS.
[To the extract already made from Mrs. Leonowens's interesting
work of travel in India we add one descriptive of the unique cavern-
temples of Ellora, in their way among the most remarkable works of
architecture and astonishing examples of rock excavation on the earth.
To this is added an account of the neighboring city of Nashik, one of
the most purely Brahmanic of existing cities.]
We bade adieu to the old historical city of the great
Arungzebe [Arungabad] just as the first streak of sunlight
was gilding the conical summit of the fortress of Dowlu-
tabad, and, wending our way laboriously up the steep
Pipla Ghaut, we emerged on the other side on a fertile
plain planted with magnificent trees and covered with
innumerable mausoleums and tombs, through which our
bullocks made straight for the western boundary of the
beautiful hill of Eauzah. Here we reached a spot of per-
fect tranquillity and beauty, but which must have been at
some ancient time a scene of intense activity. The present
little village of Ellora, consisting of a number of Hindoo
dwellings, is almost hidden among groves of fine trees, and
is only remarkable because it lies immediately at the foot
Leonowens] CAVES OF ELLORA, ETC. 189
of a high wall of rock in which the vast cavern-temples
of this neighborhood are found, and to which it owes its
prosperity.
We alighted from our wagons on the veranda of a well-
built pagoda ; near it was a fine reservoir with flights of
broad stone steps leading down to the water's edge. On
the bank or upper stonework of this reservoir are a num-
ber of artistic little Hindoo temples or shrines, the roofs
supported by light, delicate pillars, giving an airy and
graceful appearance to the whole village.
As soon as Govind had gone through his prayers and
ablutions we started off", accompanied by a couple of sage-
looking Hindoo guides, for the cavern-temples. We fol-
lowed our guides for some little distance, when they left
the high-road and struck a narrow, steep path, and all
at once, when we were least expecting it, a sudden turn
brought us into the presence of the great " rock-cut tem-
ples" that render this spot the holiest of all places in the
Dcccan. Down went Govind and our guides prostrate on
their faces and hands.
The solitude, the quiet stillness of the spot, with the
bright morning sun flooding hill and plain and penetrating
the depths of these excavations, were impressive. Tho
temple before us was a large open court and deep vaulted
chamber, massive and elaborately carved, chiselled from
the heart of the mountain itself, and rising up nearly a
hundred feet. There were many other temples in the hill-
side with door-ways, arches, pillars, windows, galleries, and
verandas supported by solid stone pillars filled with fig-
ures of gods and goddesses, heroes, giants, birds, beasts, and
reptiles of every shape, — quite enough to baffle the most
caivful student in anything like a thorough examination
of their vast and intricate workmanship.
Wo went in and out, climbing stone-cut steps, up,
190 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
down, and round about the caves, not knowing which
temple to admire most or on which to bestow undivided
attention. It would take weeks to explore them thor-
oughly. There is a very fine cavern-temple dedicated to
Pur Sawanath, " The Lord of Purity," the twenty-third
of the great saints of the Jains of this era. An image
resembling those that are seen of Buddha, stone tigers,
and elephants bear up the altar on which he is seated;
from the middle of the altar there projects a curious wheel
on which is carved the Hindoo astronomical table, and a
seven-headed serpent is seen over the head of the god.
Another very beautiful excavation, consisting of three
temples or compartments, is dedicated to Jaggar-Nath
Buddh, or "The Enlightened Lord of the Universe;" these
temples are best known, however, by the name of Indra
Sabha, or " The Assembly of Indra." These caves are two-
storied, containing images of Indra — " the darter of the
swift blue bolt," as he is called — seated on a royal elephant,
with his attendants about him, and of Indranee, his wife,
riding on a couchant lion, with her son in her arms and
her maids around her. The sacred trees of the Hindoos —
Kalpa Vriksha, the tree of the ages or of life — are grow-
ing out of their heads ; on the one overshadowing Indra
are carved peacocks, emblematic of royalty, and fruits
resembling the rose-apple, sacred to love, grow on the one
sprouting from the head of Indranee. This temple is un-
rivalled for its beauty of form and sculpture.
The next temple we visited was the Dho Mahal Lenah,
" the double palace." It is full of figures and sculptured
story celebrating the mai'riage of the god Siva with Par-
vatee. It is an excavation of great depth and extent,
filled with countless gods and goddesses, among which the
figure of Yama, the judge of the dead, commonly called
Dhannah, is especially remarkable. Not far from this
Leonowens] CAVES OF ELLOIiA, ETC. 191
cavern -temple a lovely mountain torrent comes leaping
down in beautiful cascades. Near a wide pool is a rude
cave with a deity in it called Davee, who draws multitudes
of pilgrims to her shrine yearly because of her reputation
for performing miracles.
There is also a temple famous in Indian song and story
called Khailahsah, or "highest heaven." The mountain
has been penetrated to a great depth and height to make
room for this wondrous bit of sculpture Within an area
stands a pagoda almost, if not quite, a hundred feet high.
It is entered by a noble portico guarded by huge stone
figures of men ; towering above it are, cut out of the hill,
a mu sic -gallery of the finest workmanship and five large
chapels, and above all there is in front a spacious court
terminating in three magnificent colonnades : huge columns
uphold the music-gallery ; stone elephants, looking towards
us, heave themselves out of this mass of rockwork, and
right in front is a grand figure of the Hindoo goddess
Lakshimi being crowned queen of heaven by stone ele-
phants that have raised themselves on their hind feet to
pour water over her head from stone vessels grasped in
their trunks.
Everywhere wo found fresh objects of wonder, and each
now cave seemed the greatest marvel of all. The entire
hill-side is perforated with chatiyas, monasteries, pagodas,
towers, spires, galleries, and verandas, all cut out of the
solid rock. Nothing could bo wilder and more fantastic
than the effect produced by these excavations, situated as
they are amid natural scenes very wild and romantic, —
waterfalls, ravines, gorges, old gnarled forest-trees, and a
dense undergrowth of brushwood.
Naturally, freely, unexpectedly, as the tree grows, was
the development of early Hindoo art. Everywhere one
sees an unrestrained imagination breaking through and
192 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
overleaping the bounds of judgment, reason, and even
that intuitive sense of refinement to which the Hindoo
mind is by no means a stranger.
[There are here in all thirty-four large temples, Buddhist, Brah-
manic, and Jain. Some are cut out of the interior of the rock.
Others are buildings hewn out of the granite hill-side, standing sepa-
rate, and with an exterior as well as an interior architecture, — gigantic
monolithic temples, in fact. It is believed that these temples date
from the seventh century a.d. From Ellora the travellers journeyed
to the city of Nashik, on the Thull Ghauts.]
With their forests of foliage and rich jungles the Thull
Ghauts are a perpetual wonder and mystery to the natives,
and the spot on which the handsome city of Nashik stands
is a paradise to the Brahmans. Through it the Godaveri,
sometimes called the Gunga, flows, spreading gladness and
plenty everywhere. Here it was that Eama, with his
beautiful wife Sita, spent the first days of their exile
near a dark and dreadful forest, out of which issued the
beautiful deer in pursuit of which he was obliged to leave
Sita, who became an easy prey to his enemy Eawana.
Here Lakshman, the brother of Eama, cut off the nose
of the giantess Sarp Naki, the snake-nosed sister of Ea-
wana, from which event the city itself is named [Nashik,
" City of the Nose"].
There is doubtless an historical base to all these local
traditions, for Nashik is a place of great antiquity, and is
mentioned by Ptolemy by the name which it bears to-day.
This land was no doubt at one time debatable ground be-
tween the advancing Aryan tribes and the aboriginal
settlers. Here the Buddhists took refuge from the perse-
cutions of the orthodox Brahmans, excavating the temples
and caves that abound in this region.
Nashik is now a Brahman city in the fullest sense of the
word. Brahmanic power, influence, culture, and tradition
Leonowens] CAVES OF ELLORA, ETC. 193
are felt everywhere. Govind, our pundit, was in his best
humor. It seems he had long desired to make a pilgrimage
to this sacrod spot, and here he was without any actual ex-
pense to himself and at the right moment. Nashik is said
to have a population of from twenty-five to thirty thousand
inhabitants, chiefly Brahmans of great wealth and famed
for their religious sanctity of character.
At the jatras, or tribe-meetings, a great concourse of
Brahmans, Hindoos, Kajpoots, and Mahrattas from all
parts of India pour into this city, and our visit happened
at this time, for the pilgrims were arriving from all parts
of the Eastern world. Most of the streets were, like
those usually found in Oriental cities, narrow, ill-drained,
and badly paved, but there are some that are well kept,
and a fine, broad thoroughfare leads almost, but not quite,
through the centre of the city to the banks of the Godavcri.
The lofty houses of the Brahmans, many of which are three
stories high and almost palatial in appearance, were thrown
open to the strangers. Pilgrims thronged the streets and
were encamped along the roadside in tents in the open air
or under the shade of huge trees. Highways lead every-
where down to the river, w T hose sanctity may be conceived
from the vast numbers and characteristics of the temples
that line its banks and dot the islands and rocks in the
river-bed, nearly all built of a hard black rock, capable of
high polish, and some in the purest style of Hindoo archi-
tecture.
As we were detained here a couple of days, being obliged
to purchase a fresh pair of trotting bullocks in order to
prosecute the rest of our journey, we determined to stay
over and see the celebration of the Holi, one of the most
curious festivals among the Hindoos. We took up our
abode in the travellers' bungalow, some little distance from
the native city, and looking out upon the English bury-
iii.— i « 17
194 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowens
ing-ground. It is a charming spot, with a wild tangle of
trees forming a sort of garden around it.
The native town of Nashik seems to be divided into
three parts, the handsome and well-built portion being
occupied by the wealthy Brahmans, vakeels, or lawyers,
and gurus, or priests. The second division, which bears
marks of great age and is not very sightly, is inhabited
by merchants and traders in grain and other articles of
Indian commerce. The bazaars are remarkably well
stocked with shawls brought from Cashmere, silks and
kinkaubs from Arungabad, gowrakoo, a native manufac-
ture of tobacco and used for smoking, and jaggery, a dark-
brown sugar, from Bombay. In the jewellers' shops wo
saw some very pretty specimens of gold and silver orna-
ments, such as are worn by Hindoo women. The vege-
table and fruit markets here are very fine. Among the
fruits large trays of beautiful flowers were disposed, of
which the rose of Nashik seemed to me the finest I had
seen in India. Sheep, goats, and cows wander about the
streets of the bazaar unmolested. Indeed, I saw cows
putting their heads into the open grain-bags exposed on
the shop windows of the bunyas, or grain- dealers, and
have a good feed, for there was no one to hinder them.
One day, as we were wandering about the streets of
Nashik, we strayed into an open court, and thence through
an arched entrance into a large hall, where we suddenly
came upon a company of men weaving a peculiar and
beautiful Oriental silk. The loom was of the old-fashioned
Indian type, set into the ground ; the upper thread was of
a pale-gold color, and the lowest of the most exquisite blue,
and the fabric after it was woven had a little knot of
yellow left on the surface, which gave it the appearance
in one light of being woven of gold threads, and in another
light of pale bluo. A number of women wore soated close
Leonowens] CAVES OF ELLORA, ETC. 195
by preparing the silk thread for the weavers by means of
a very rude spinning-wheel.
From the bazaars we set off to visit some of the most,
artistic temples that embellish the banks of the Godaveri.
There are five structures here to-day in great repute : the
temples of Maha Deo, or the high god, Siva, Parvati, Indra,
and Jaggar JS T ath, commonly called Juggernaut. Each of
these temples has a large number of laymen, priests, and
priestesses, or dancing-girls, attached to them. The dancing-
girls are seen everywhere in the temples, on the banks of
the river, and in the booths erected here and there, per-
forming their various dances for the amusement of the
pilgrims, and some of these girls were of the finest type
that I had seen in any part of India.
We went into the temple of Maha Deo, which contains
some very rich and bold carvings. A figure of a god was
seated on a stone altar, and all over the shrine were scat-
tered flowers, oil, and red paint, or shaindoor. At the
door of this temple we saw seated a very old woman, who,
they told me, was once a famous beauty and a priestess of
this temple. She sat there muttering idly to herself and
basking in the sunlight. Age had very forcibly set its
seal upon her. Her skin was drawn into the most com-
plicated net-work of wrinkles, her arms were almost devoid
of flesh, and her limbs were as tottering and feeble as those
of an infant just attempting to walk ; but her eyes, large,
dark, and piercing, still retained a great deal of their origi-
nal beauty. The people, however, regarded her as one
inspired, and the women attached to the temple had a
tender care for her, taking her into an adjoining chamber
every night to sleep, bringing her out to her accustomed
place every morning, and feeding her at regular intervals.
On the banks of the Godaveri is shown a spot where
women without number have become suttees, or, as they
196 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Leonowkks
called them here, Sadhwees, or " pure ones." At a very
gentle curve of the river are the cremation-grounds of the
Hindoos, and here the ashes of men burned at a distance
are brought and scattered in the holy stream, which is
thought to have its source in the heart of the great Maha
Deo himself.
Next morning, when we entered into the streets of
Nashik once more, the scene that presented itself to our
astonished gaze was that of a vast multitude gone mad.
Crowds of women dressed in fantastic attire, especially in
white- and yellow-spotted muslin sarees, men in curious
garbs, boys dressed like sprites or wholly nude and be-
smeared with yellow paint, fakeers, gossains, ascetics,
Hindoos, and Brahmans, were seen in the streets shout-
ing, laughing, throwing red paint about ; rude jests were
being passed ; women were addressed in obscene or ribald
language ; persons blindfolded in the streets were left to
grope their way until they removed the bandage from their
eyes, friends were sent on bootless errands, etc. In fact, it
was a complete saturnalia of the rudest and most grotesque
description. It was the festival of the Holi, held in honor
of Krishna's sportive character on the night of the full
moon in the month of February.
That evening we went out on the banks of the Godaveri
to see the termination of the festival, and it is simply im-
possible to describe the wild enthusiasm of this vast con-
course of people. The banks of the river, the steps of the
numberless temples, the courts within courts, the shrines,
the altars, the great halls and music-galleries with forests
of carved pillars, were closely packed with countless
throngs of white-robed priests, half-naked gossains, or
sparkling dancing-girls, while thousands of men, women,
and children lined the banks of the Godaveri, eager and
enthusiastic participants in the gay, bewildering scene.
Leonowexs] CAVES OF ELLORA, ETC. 197
As we stood gazing at the strange spectacle we heard the
wild, discordant sounds of various musical instruments, the
shrill blast of innumerable conch-shells, and the deafening
beat of the tom-toms, whereupon huge fires began to blaze
almost simultaneously from shore to shore at regular dis-
tances, and everywhere round them groups of strangely
dressed boys performed weird cireular dances, holding each
other's hands and going around them ; then, suddenly let-
ting loose, they darted and leaped round and round one
another and round the fire at the same time. This dance
is ostensibly performed to commemorate the dance of the
god Krishna with the seven gowpiahs, or milkmaids, but
there is scarcely a doubt that this festival originally meant
to typify the revolution of the planets round the sun.
The light from these blazing fires streaming out upon
the moonlit river, the wild, discordant music, the hilarious
shouts, the frantic dancers, the sparkle of the dancing-girls,
the white-robed figures of the countless multitude, now
flashing in sight in the glare of the firelight, and anon
vanishing in the deep shadows beyond, the piles of black
temples, the great trees, with their arms bending down to
the river or stretching towards the clear sky, — all combined
to render the last night of the festival of the Holi at Na-
shik a most weird and singularly fantastic sight.
From the first to the last day of our visit here there was
nowhere perceptible the least trace of European influence
on the people or in the city. The people and the city were
just what they might have been in the days when Ptolemy
wrote about the latter, >-purely and wholly Hindoo, and
full of a Brahmanic atmosphere of religious mysticism, —
a civilization quite different from anything we had ever
witnessed.
17*
198 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Citmming
THE LAIR OF THE TIGER.
W. GORDON CUMMING.
[To the description of boar-hunting in India, which we have given
from Colonel Cumming's " "Wild Men and Wild Beasts," we now add
some selections descriptive of tiger-hunting experiences, a form of sport
far more dangerous than that of spearing the boar. As the horse is the
safeguard against danger in the latter, the elephant is in the former,
and such hurts as are received are usually due to foolhardy venturing
on foot. "We select an example of a tiger-hunt in 1856, near Indore,
in Malwa.]
As we approached a ravine running down from some
springs, we observed a very large tiger standing in a
streamlet about two hundred yards from us. He had evi-
dently seen us, and, after a few seconds, he moved up the
hill-side, which was covered with bamboos and detached
fragments of rock. On arriving at the spot where we had
seen him, we came in full view of the huge beast, as he
stood, a hundred paces above us, at the base of a large
rock. He was watching us, with one paw raised like a
pointer dog, and his head turned sideways towards us.
Notwithstanding the distance, we were about to fire, when,
with a series of savage growls, he charged down the hill,
and rushing across the ravine, disappeared, and we saw
him no more.
The word "growl," which I have used above, is, I think,
inaccurate, but I know not what term to use. A tiger when
lying wounded in a thicket will sometimes " growl," but
when he charges the cry is more of a deep cavernous
grunt, very horrible to hear, and well calculated to try a
man's nerves. On one or two rare occasions I have heard
a tiger roar, and have oftentimes heard him growl, but the
Cummimi] THE LAIR OF THE TIGER. 199
war-cry which he gives when charging is quite distinct
from either of these.
After resting a while, wo moved towards the place where
we had sent our servants and tents. The jungle had been
only very partially burned, and all the edges of the
streams, together with large tracts of the more level jungle,
were covered with grass two feet or more in height. Wo
were skirting up the bank of a considerable stream, when
we saw a tiger move up from the river on the opposite side
and disappear among the bog grass. The jungle was fairly
open, and we thought we might try our luck on the ele-
phants ; so, calling them up, we mounted.
We had to proceed up-stream for some distance, as the
bank was too abrupt to allow the elephants to descend.
Having at length effected a passage, we moved down to
where we had seen the tiger, and there, among the grass,
we found half the carcass of a recently killed nylghau.
Bringing the elephants abreast, we turned up the hill, and
presently came on three tigers sitting quietly in the grass
within thirty paces of each other. They seemed to regard
us with great unconcern. Whispering to the mahout to
stop, I was in the act of raising my rifle, when, with a
shrill trumpet, my elephant rushed to the front. I was of
course jerked down into the seat, and before I could recover
myself the three tigers had vanished. Looking round for
my friend, I found that his elephant had behaved even
worse than mine, and had nearly smashed him against the
overhanging branch of a tree. We deplored our hard fate,
and abused the elephants; but had I known then all I
know now, the blame, and probably the punishment, would
have fallen on the mahouts.
[Timidity in tiger-hunting is somewhat generally distributed, now
affecting the elephant, now the tiger, and occasionally the bold hunter
himself, ad the following instance serves to show.]
200 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cummino
An old iron pit in this jungle was shown to one of my
friends, some years after my visit, by one of the natives of
the place. He slated that he had on one occasion taken a
youthful British sportsman to this cave, in which a tiger
had been marked down. A fragment of rock was hurled
into the pit, and out bolted the affrighted tiger. " There,"
said the shikaree, pointing to the left, " there ran the tiger ;
the sahib stood here; and there" — pointing to a branch
twenty-five feet straight over his head — "there is the
mark of the sahib's bullet." It is supposed that the tiger
was not the only thing that was frightened on that day.
[In the case of another tiger-hunt which dimming describes, the
sport — i.e., the killing — was not all on the side of the men. Two cubs
had been slain, and the tigress, furious at the loss of her young, was
crouching in a covert, when a native ventured near the spot. The
animal at once sprang upon him, buried her fangs deep in his body,
and shook him as a dog would a rat. The man died before the next
morning. On this day a tiger was roused in a locality where several
deep nullahs, or ravines, joined the river.]
On this day Bulkley and Arbuthnot wished to try the
elephant, so they mounted him together, and proceeded to
beat down the bed of the stream towards Ashburner and
myself, who were posted in trees on the bank. My treo
was in a good position on the edge of a deep nullah, and,
mounting with my gun-bearer, we perched ourselves and
sat quiet.
"We soon heard the elephant trumpet, and a glimpse was
obtained of the tiger by those in the howdah ; but the trees
hung so much over the water, and were so large and dense,
that the elephant could only be driven in the centre of the
stream. Stones were flung in freely from above, but the
tiger would not again show, though we worked after him
for two hours.
Cummijtg] THE LAIR OF THE TIGER 201
[The effects of the hot July sun proved too much for Mr. Cumming,
and he had to he helped down from his tree and placed in a shady
place for recovery.]
I began to feel rather better, and Ashburner shouted to
the others to come and have luncheon. He was busy un-
packing the basket, when we heard a great uproar from
the river, followed by two shots, and, snatching up our
rifles, we ran forward in time to meet Bulkley staggering
up the bank with his clothes all torn and bloody.
They had dismounted from the elephant in the bed of
the river, where they were joined by some of the beaters,
and were on their way up the bank to join us at luncheon.
Arbuthnot was somewhat in advance, and Bulkley followed
with a number of beaters, when the latter suddenly called
out, "The tiger! the tiger!" and fled incontinently.
Bulkley wheeled round, and at that instant the tiger
charged out. It had been lying in the deep shade caused
by a mass of willows, bent over by a heap of drift and
debris from the river ; and Arbuthnot and the men with
him must have passed within a few yards of it on their
way up the bank. As the tiger charged, Bulkley fired both
barrels in his face, but, failing to stop him, turned and en-
deavored to get away. His foot slipped and he fell for-
ward against the bank. At that instant the tiger seized
him by the back, just over the shoulder-blade, and carried
him off for about twenty yards. Bulkley had probably
wounded him in his charge, fo*r he now dropped him and
retired into the bush, and did not again show. The
wounded man picked himself up, and met us as we ad-
vanced, and wo supported him to the spot where we had
been sitting.
Cutting open his clothes, we found his back fearfully
lacerated, but tho discharge of blood was not great. Tho
tiger had lifted him by the muscles of the back, and that
202 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cumming
with no tender grasp ; but we could form no idea of the
actual mischief done.
A litter having been constructed, we raised him and set
off for the camp. His pluck was wonderful, and he con-
versed freely with us on the road, and explained the whole
matter. On our arrival at the tent we made all prepara-
tions for taking him to the Baroda cantonment, distant
about eighty miles, where we could place him under proper
medical treatment. Meanwhile, we carefully washed his
wounds, and over the whole laid a huge flour poultice.
[Bulkley's wounds were long in healing, and continued to discharge
for more than a year, giving at times excessive pain. He then went to
Bombay and consulted an eminent surgeon, who opened the wound
and extracted considerable portions of the shoulder-blade which had
been splintered off by the tiger's teeth. Soon after this the wound
closed and healed. Shortly after this event another hunter met with
a still worse misfortune.]
Another shooting-party was out, and, as their leave was
up, we daily expected them in cantonments. One morning
a man arrived with the news that one of the party had
been wounded by a tiger, and was on his way in. Soon
after, Langton, of my regiment, was carried in on a litter.
Two days before, having left his comrades, he was on his
way back to Baroda alone. Hearing of a tiger in the bed of
the Mhye Biver, he went after and wounded it. The beast
got away among some rocks, and as Langton was endeav-
oring to dislodge him he charged, knocked him over, and
bit him through the elbow-joint and thumb. The tiger
then left him, and his people got him home to his tent.
Men were procured, and, having placed him on a litter,
they set off towards the cantonment.
In this way they moved all that afternoon, the whole of
the following day, and the third till eleven a.m., when they
reached Baroda. The wounded man was quite sensible
Cummino] THE LAIR OF TEE TIGER. 203
and free from any great pain, and gave us a full account
of his misadventure. We got him to bed, and ho soon
after fell off into a drowsy state, from which he never re-
covered. A brother officer and I watched him during the
night, and at two a.m. I saw such a decided change come
over him tbat I at once sent for the doctor, who was him-
self on the sick-list. All that was possible was done for
Langton, but he never rallied, and died in the afternoon.
. . . There was no doubt his death was accelerated by
undue exposure to the sun after the shock which he had
sustained.
["While officiating as political agent at Sehore, our hunter had to
do with a tiger who gave his tormentors abundance of work and fought
desperately for his life.]
A few miles to the southward of Sehore lies a scrub
jungle of some extent. In no part very dense, it contains
many small ravines, filled with long grass and thorny
bushes, affording good shelter to tigers, which occasionally
wander up from the larger coverts, attracted by the cattle
from the surrounding villages. Late one evening a shikaree
whom we had stationed at this spot came in and reported
that a villager had just been killed by a tiger. The man
with two companions had been gathering gum from the
trees, when the tiger rushed out on them from a patch of
grass, seizing him in his teeth, and killing him on the spot.
His comrades were unarmed, and fled to the village.
It was too late to do anything that afternoon, but all
was prepared for an early start, and by sunrise next morn-
ing we had ridden out to the jungle, where we met our
gun-bearers with three good elephants. I was accompanied
by the civil surgeon and the adjutant of the local corps.
As the country was very open, and the sun was still low
in the heavens, I urged them not to fire long shots should
204 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cxtmmino
the tiger rise on the approach of the elephants. I calcu-
lated that we should have no difficulty in again marking
him down.
All preliminaries being arranged, we went off to the spot
where the tiger had been seen, and there, face downward,
lay the body of the unfortunate man. His clothes were
torn, and a quantity of blood was on the ground; but the
tiger had apparently not been hungiy, for no portion of
the body was eaten, and, as it had lain in the jungle all
night, we were not sanguine.
Leaving a few villagers to carry home the dead man, we
moved into some grass jungle, having previously posted
men in different directions on high trees with orders to
keep a good lookout. The adjutant was on the left, the
doctor in the centre, and I was on the right of the line.
We had not gone far before the tiger, a very large male,
rose from a small water-course about sixty yards on my
right front, and bounded up the opposite bank. He was
too far off to allow of my shooting with certainty, there-
fore, trusting that he would lie up in the next thicket, I
reserved my fire. The doctor, however, had caught sight
of him, and, greatly excited, at once loosed his piece. I
saw the shots strike the ground wide of the tiger, who
increased his pace, and went off giving a few angry growls.
We followed him up at once, and again I implored my
companions not to fire unless they were certain that they
could do so with good effect.
Half a mile farther on we again started the tiger, — this
time he was within a fair range of the doctor, who, how-
ever, missed him, and we feared that even my wonted
good luck would not give us another chance. But the sun
was now high and powerful, and as we knew that there
was no strong covert within several miles, we followed on
in the direction which the tiger had taken.
Cummixg] THE LAIR OF THE TIGER. 205
About a mile ahead we came up to one of our scouts on
a tree, who reported that the tiger had entered the bushes
which fringed the edge of a small dry nullah running up
into the plain. Quietly forming up the three elephants in
line, we moved slowly on, and soon after saw the tiger
going off about eighty yards before us. As he seemed
thoroughly scared, I deemed it prudent this time to fire,
on the chance of wounding him. The doctor also fired at
the same moment, and the tiger lurched heavily to one side
and disappeared among the bushes.
I had just taken up another rifle, and we were cautiously
advancing, when the enraged brute rushed to meet us.
He was within twenty paces before we saw him, and was
evidently inclined to do mischief, but again we opened
fire and dropped him. He rose, however, in an instant,
and again came on, roaring wickedly ; but, apparently not
caring to close with the elephants, he dashed through our
line and went back up the nullah.
We quickly reloaded, and followed him up, carefully
examining every bush and tuft of grass. In this manner
wo had advanced to the very head of the nullah, which
terminated in a large green corinda-bush. The tiger made
no sum, and we began to fear that he might have slunk
away to the right or left, but, determined to make sure, I
directed my mahout to take me up to the corinda-bush.
The head of the elephant had almost touched the foliage
when the tiger, now mad with rage, sprang at him, seizing
him by the root of the trunk in his teeth, while he buried
his claws in the sides of his face.
With a frantic shriek the elephant dropped his head,
and endeavored to pin the tiger to the ground with his
tusks. It was a moment of intense excitement, and I was
seriously alarmed for the mahout, who, seated on the neck
of the elephant, was in great danger of being thrown
13
206 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cumming
down between the struggling brutes. My own situation,
too, was by no means pleasant, for I was thrown forward
in the howdah, and I dreaded lest the girths should give
way. However, the graith was good, and I kept my
position, and as the elephant with a desperate effort shook
off the tiger, I found I had retained my three guns unin-
jured.
The tiger made off down the nullah before I could again
fire, and it was some time before the elephant, who con-
tinued to dance and shriek with rage, could be sufficiently
quieted to enable me to follow after him. Throughout the
struggle my companions, though only a few paces off, were
unable to render any assistance, fearing to fire lest they
might hit the elephant. About one hundred yards down
the nullah we came on the tiger, crouching under a bank.
He at once charged, and this time left the mark of his
teeth and claws in the head of the adjutant's elephant, but
he was now less lively, and one or two shots put in with
effect rolled him over. He was a fine beast, a male of the
largest size, with a rich dark skin. He was, moreover,
very shaggy about the sides of the head, and was alto-
gether a good specimen.
[Our redoubtable hunter seems to have been proof against tigers.
He was less so against bears, and came near receiving his quietus from
one of these creatures, as the following narrative will show. Two
bears had been "marked down" in a grassy and bushy place, and
directing his companion, Hunt, to take post on the face of the hill
above, Cumming advanced into the grass, followed by his native
attendants.]
As I was carefully endeavoring to avoid treading on the
dry sticks, I came on a covey of the small bustard quail.
These birds are generally found in the tree jungles, and sit
in the grass closely packed together, rising simultaneously,
with much noise, when disturbed. I had almost stepped
Gumming] THE LAIR OF THE TWER. 207
on thein before they rose ; and as they flew up into my
face I was a good deal startled. I had hardly settled my
nerves when I saw the male bear about thirty paces in
front of me, making off at speed towards the right. I
fired at once, but the smoke came back on me ; and, as it
cleared away, I saw the other bear, not ten yards off, going
away after the first.
I let drive with the second barrel, on which she wheeled
round and came straight at me, grunting viciously. Eising
on her hind legs, she attempted to seize me by the throat
in her teeth ; and, as I fended her off with my left arm, she
got it in her mouth, and crunched it up like a cucumber.
Meanwhile, she was not idle with her formidable claws,
with which she tore open my clothes, and gave me an
ugly score across the ribs. At the moment Bappo rushed
in and shot her through the body. She dropped on all
fours, but retained her hold on my hand with her teeth,
tugging furiously to get me down. As we struggled, a
young bear which she carried on her back, and which had
been struck by my shot, fell dead at our feet; and the old
lady's temper was evidently not improved by the bereave-
ment.
Bappo behaved admirably. He again rushed to the front,
and, raising his rifle, watched his opportunity for another
shot. I called to him not to blow my hand off; and at that
instant he fired, and the bear relaxed her grip and fell back
with a ragged hole through her head. All this was the
work of a few seconds.
I had now time to examine my hurts. My left wrist
was nearly bitten through, both bones were smashed, and
the hand twisted round. I was, moreover, cut across the
ribs by the bear's claws. Holding up the wounded limb in
a hanging position, 1 turned the hand round into its place,
and supported it on the other arm till Hunt, who had now
208 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Cumming
come up, had cut some slips of bamboo, and bound the whole
up with a turban. I was astonished at the utter absence
of pain, for the wound was gruesome to behold. . . .
I had in my camp a native dresser from the dispensary
at Maunpore, and by him my wound was artificially bound
up. Both bones of the arm were smashed ; the ulna was
broken about an inch from the joint, and the ends pro-
truded. The radius was also broken. I had on the third
finger of my left hand a ring which had not been oft for
many years, and could not be removed. Knowing that
my hand would probably swell up, I lost no time in filing
this off. Meanwhile, food had been got ready ; and after
partaking of refreshment, I mounted in a litter, borne on
men's shoulders, and set off for Mundlaisir, distant thirty
miles, hoping there to obtain good surgical treatment. . . .
That evening [of the next day] Dr. Watson, of the Ben-
gal army, arrived, after a thirty miles' ride from Mhow, and
considerably relieved my mind by intimating his intention
of endeavoring to save the hand. He pleasantly remarked
that any man could cut off a limb, but that it required a
surgeon to save one.
I received much attention from all my friends at Mund-
laisir, and in about ten days was so far recovered as to be
able to be moved in a palanquin to Mhow, where I remained
under the surgical care and hospitable roof of Dr. Watson.
1 have no joint in that wrist, and can only partially close
my hand, but the limb is serviceable in most ways ; and,
as Watson used to remark, " It is better than a hook." My
misadventure occurred about the 16th of April, and I was
not able to take the field again before the 20th of June.
Moore] AN ELEPHANT KRAAL IN CEYLON. 209
AN ELEPHANT KRAAL IN CEYLON.
JOSEPH MOORE.
[It was on the occasion of the visit of the two sons of the Prince of
Wales (Albert Victor and George, who were making a tour of the
world as midshipmen) to Ceylon that a grand elephant-hunt was pro-
jected, as a finale to the festivities given in their honor. Joseph Moore,
author of "The Queen's Empire," was in Ceylon at the time, and
took the opportunity to witness the Cingalese mode of taking this
great animal. We subjoin his account of the exciting occurrence.]
The ground chosen for the exciting sport was a narrow
valley close to the Labugama water-works, by which Co-
lombo — thirty miles distant — is to be supplied. A locality
known to bo frequented by elephants is selected, — one
where the needful water, shade, and forage are present.
In such a spot the kraal had been erected by the na-
tives, under the directions of their chiefs. This popular
term is a heritage from the Dutch occupation, and cor-
responds to our word corral. It formed an irregular
figure, but not unlike a square with one corner truncated.
The matter of outline, however, is governed somewhat by
the topography of the site. It may describe a rectangle
or a triangle, but must always have the added funnel,
to lead the herd to the entrance. Care must be taken
not to destroy the foliage about the approach to the trap,
as the elephant has a keen instinct of danger. The en-
closure is constructed of the trunks of trees, nearly a foot
in diameter, and firmly set in the ground, crossed with
rails of lesser thickness, and usually braced from the out-
side with forked timbers. In place of Western modes of
joining, the parts arc lashed with rattan and other stout
tendrils, known as jungle ropes,
in.— o 18*
210 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
The whole covered a space of some three acres, and had
a height of about ten feet. Adjoining the kraal were stands
for the distinguished guests and visitors from all parts of
the island to view the operation of fettering the captives.
Despite its strength, such a barrier would be futile were
an enraged elephant allowed to attack it with all its
power. This contingency is generally prevented by strat-
agem ; but at times it occurs, when the escape of the herd
is probable. The devices employed to ward off a charge
are of the simplest character, never implying force, but
always depending upon man's craft and daring, and the
timorous nature of the giant brute.
After the kraal had been completed, nearly three thou-
sand natives were engaged for several weeks in securing the
game. A large section of country was surrounded, and the
cordon slowly contracted until about twenty elephants,
comprising two distinct herds, were brought within sur-
veillance. One chief declared that he had driven his herd
eighty miles. In pursuing this work of patience, tact, and
hardship, the beaters are cautious not to alarm the ele-
phants, but to allow them, as much as possible, to pursue
their usual peaceful habits in the jungle, at the same time
advancing them, step by step, day and night, in the direc-
tion of the stockade. When the circle has been so reduced
as to excite their mistrust, or the danger of a stampede,
fires are built at close intervals around the line, and the
watchers flash torches, brandish light spears, or sound a cry
known to be hideous to the elephantine ear, " Harri-harri-
hooi-ooi !" . . .
Sunset was upon the camp before the stir caused by tho
arrival of the princes had subsided, and then word came
that the drive in would not be attempted until the following
morning. After dinner some veterans of Indian life amused
us for an hour or more with stories of elephants, tigers,
Moore] AN ELEPHANT KRAAL IN CEYLON. 211
leopards, and snakes, before we retired to the rudo couches
to dream of encounters with savage creatures. But it was
not all a dream.
Shortly before daylight, when the prattling Singalese
outside made it impossible to sleep, there fell upon our
ears the most appalling cry of terror that a human being
could utter. In an instant we were upon our feet. Its
piercing tone of despair roused the occupant of every hut,
and a moment later the ominous word " cobra" flew from
tongue to tongue. Men clad in pajamas and slippers, fol-
lowed by excited natives, dashed to the rescue, — to find
that a partition of light palm-leaves had fallen on the
slumbering victim of the fright. The incident was serious
enough, however, to prove the animated respect which
"old Indians" have for the imperious serpent.
After this adventure we had the early tea and prepared
for the bugle-call, the signal that the great spectacle of the
day was about to commence. Morning passed, but with-
out the expected summons. To occupy the time and learn
the cause of the delay, we walked over the hills to the rear
of the kraal, only to hear that the beaters were having
difficulty in bringing the game to the entrance.
Here were stationed the large tame elephants selected to
assist in noosing their wild brethren. One of the number,
an enormous tusker, equipped with chains and ropes, stood
the ideal of strength and docility. Encouraged by his
driver we fed him with sweet stalks, which were taken
with tho utmost grace, and in return he gently lifted us
high into tho air upon his tusks, using his trunk with
almost human care to guard us against a fall.
The trained elephant is associated in the Occident with
amusement only, but throughout the East Indies he serves
various purposes of utility. In addition to his offices in war
and pageantry, of which we have already had glimpses, ho
212 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
is valuable in constructing roads, moving heavy stones,
uprooting small trees, clearing a jungle, hauling weighty
loads, and piling timber.
Most observers agree that his power and sagacity are
best displayed in the task of handling lumber. At the
command of his mahout, emphasized by the prick of an
iron goad, he will select a log among many, — weighing half
a ton or more, — lift it upon his tusks, carry it to the re-
quired place, and return for another.
Two working in conjunction will rear a pile with the
greatest accuracy, arranging the logs in rows crossing each
other at right angles.
As long as silence governed the plan of strategy, visitors
were enjoined from going towards the front of the kraal,
and this prohibition, added to the long delay, caused much
outspoken impatience ; but when, suddenly, a distant storm
of cries and shrill noises announced that the " drive in" was
imminent, and the need of concealment past, we hurried
forward to an elevated position overlooking the entrance.
The hunted elephants, terrified by the uproar, bolted
headlong to the open gate, halted there for a moment un-
decided, and then, suspecting the trap, turned again on
their pursuers. An army of natives, reinforced by many
European volunteers, retired without ceremony, but only
a few rods, and then promptly reformed their lines. Ad-
vancing again, the beaters boldly pricked the infuriated,
trumpeting monsters with the light wands they carried, at
the same time wildly gesticulating and shouting "harri-
harri." But tho herd stood in close order, refusing to
move forward.
A long and stirring contest now ensued, much of which
was hidden from us by the tall jungle. Even when the
combatants were invisible, the position of the elephants
was indicated by the cracking bamboos, waving trees, sten-
Moore] AN ELEPHANT KRAAL IN CEYLON. 213
torian growls, and sometimes an uplifted trunk. Under
tho leadership of a savage cow bent upon protecting tbo
calf at her side, they repeatedly charged tho cordon, only
to be driven back by harmless screams and toy spears.
Finally a native ventured too near the desperate mother,
and in an instant she caught him with her trunk and
crushed out his life with a mammoth foot.
It was now decided that the leader must be disabled to
curb her fury. After a short truce — until a rifle was
brought — the gallant brute fell, wounded near the ear ;
and while her blood poured out in a great stream, the little
calf ran about the prostrate form in appealing distress.
Tho cow lay perhaps five minutes, then unexpectedly rose,
gathered the herd about her, and led them with a rush
through the funnel and into the enclosure. I saw every
one of them pass the fence, — seven wild elephants; and in
the flush of that moment I had scored a rare experience.
In an instant watchers sprang forward and barred the
entrance. At last the captives were " kraaled."
The instinct that two herds of elephants never minglo
was dominant even during the critical struggle, the larger
bodj*, yet outside, having succeeded in maintaining sepa-
rate ground, and so, for a time, escaped capture. Hence
the lines were continued with unabated vigilance around
the herd still in the jungle, until tho gate could be safely
opened for another drive.
Contrary to all precedent, steps were immediately takon
for " tying up" that afternoon. Usually a night is allowed
to intervene, as the prisoners spend their rage and exhaust
themselves in the interval by vain assaults upon the stock-
ade, tearing through the heavy undergrowth, and bellowing
in alarm and bewilderment. By morning they stand to-
gether, silent and subdued, and as far from their tormentors
as possible.
214 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
This premature movement, undertaken against the ad-
vice of the chiefs, was ordered for the reason that the
Princes were timed to leave that evening. Unwisely, only
two days had been allotted in the reception programme for
the kraal, and so the royal guests were hurried away to
Nuwara Eliya for an elk-hunt, which proved a failure.
Many visitors, however, remained until the end, including
the admiral and some of his lieutenants.
Briefly, the too hasty attempt at noosing, executed in a
deluge of rain, was unsuccessful ; this, be it noted, in defi-
ance of the herculean efforts of three tame elephants to
butt and belabor the wild ones into subjection. As the
wounded cow still gave battle, she was reluctantly killed
during this fray, and the marksman proudly bore off the
tail as a trophy.
Let us pass over the detail of how the corral was forced
that night and the captives escaped. Also of how they
were soon retaken, along with six from the other herd.
In a word, when the " tying up" began in earnest there
were twelve unfortunates in the toils.
The victims were engaged in cooling each other with
mud and water when the bars of the small rear entrance
were removed and four tame elephants entered, each
mounted by two or three noosers, and followed by assist-
ants with spears and ropes. In a trice the herd took
fright and charged the palisade, only to retreat before the
puny wands and loud whoops of the guards. Despairing
of escape, they dashed to and fro, round and round, to
avoid contact with the approaching foes. Thus pressed
without respite, they sometimes evinced a disposition to
be warlike, which was effectually checked by a few blows
or thumps from the tame animals. In these encounters
the exposed riders were unnoticed and unharmed, but the
men on foot were cautious to evade attack.
Moors] AN ELEPHANT KRAAL IN CEYLON. 215
After long manoeuvring tho trained elephants managed
to separate a large cow from the herd, and so ranged
themselves about her that she was forced to stand. This
was the opportunity wanted, and in a flash an agile native
slipped under one of the friendly brutes, rope in hand.
Waiting until the restless prisoner lifted her hind foot,
he deftly placed tho noose about her leg and withdrew.
Another venture fettered the second limb, the decoys
meanwhile warding off with their trunks several wrathful
strokes aimed at the man.
The ropes were now firmly secured to a stout tree, and
the captive left entirely alone save her calf. Then began
a titanic struggle for liberty that no few words can justly
portray. Finding herself baffled in untying the many
knots, or in uprooting the tree, she writhed, screamed,
tore at the foliage, pawed tho earth, tossed clouds of dust
over her back, flung her trunk about fiercely, and planted
her head upon the ground for leverage to rend asunder
the bonds.
At length she fell in exhaustion, anguish, and despair,
and lay motionless and resigned. The natives well knew
that these symptoms forebode the loss of their prize. She
panted for an hour or more, sighed deeply, and died — of
"broken heart." A male, somewhat above medium size,
was next submitted to the exciting ordeal with minor
variations. While he stood jammed between two of the
tame elephants, away from any ti*ee, the nooser induced
him to raise his hind foot by touching it gently, drew the
running knot about his leg, and retreated. In this case
the rope was attached to tho girth of one of the trained
animals, and tho sagacious brute, knowing exactly what
was expected of him, began to drag the captive towards a
tree facing tho spectators' stand:-;.
The wild one resisted violently, but without avail, as the
216 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moore
tame allies steadily pushed, butted, and pulled him across
the enclosure. When the tying was complete his contor-
tions to free himself were astonishing, though in the end
he calmed down hopeless and covered with soil.
While these operations were in progress the two orphan
calves became troublesome, wailing, charging to and fro,
chasing the noosers, and running under the grown ele-
phants. As the element of danger was absent, the binding
of these little ones was merry work. In addition to se-
curing one leg, a noose was passed around their necks.
They bellowed, threw off the ropes, rapped their assailants,
and displayed the most comical exasperation.
Elephants with tusks are comparatively rare in Ceylon,
but there was a huge one in the kraal fifty or sixty years
of age, — too old to be trained. Contrary to rule, he was
the most cowardly of the herd, persistently declining to
fight, and always eluding his pursuers. The natives were
indisposed seriously to attempt his capture, and even the
tame beasts preferred to leave him undisturbed.
The process of training commences by giving the captive
a small quantity of food, which is increased from day to
day. At the expiration of a week or two, according to
the individual temper, he is chained between tame ele-
phants and led away to bathe. If patience and kindness
be exercised, in two months his driver can ride him unat-
tended, and in another similar period he is prepared for
labor.
The work of "tying up" continued a second day, but
few strangers cared to remain. At the conclusion the
prizes were sold by auction, realizing from sixty rupees
for a calf to three hundred and fifty rupees for the largest.
The tusker and one or two others were ultimately allowed
to break through the palisade and return to the jungle.
Bowring] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 217
THE VENICE OF THE EAST.
SIR JOHN BOWRING.
[Sir John Bowring, born in Exeter, England, in 1792, was noted
for his linguistic attainments, and his works on the poetry of several
European countries. He became editor of the Westminster Review in
1825, and in 1819 was made British consul at Hong-Kong, and subse-
quently governor of that city. He also spent some time in Siam as
British envoy, and wrote a valuable work on that kingdom, "The
Kingdom and People of Siam," embodying his experiences and those
of others. He died in 1872. From his work we make the following
selections concerning the great river and the principal cities of Siam.
Of the annual overflow of the Meinam Kiver he says :]
The Meinam has its annual inundation. Impregnated
with the rich soil which it brings from the interior, in the
month of Juno its waters begin to rise, and in August they
overflow the banks to a height sometimes exceeding six
feet above the ordinary level. In the first public audience
I had with the first king, he called my attention to the
inundation of the river as the main source of the fertility
of the soil ; the rice-fields become greener and more prom-
ising as the waters spread, which generally remain till the
month of November, the land having the appearance of a
lake. Eoats traverse it in all directions, temporary canals
being formed among the rice-fields to facilitate their cir-
culation.
Pallegoix affirms that though the high lands are sub-
merged for several months, the lower regions of the coun-
try, at a distance of thirty miles from the sea, are never
inundated, which he attributes to the strength of the tido,
which, in rising, drives buck the descending waters with
an irresistible force, and at the ebb they make their way
k 19
218 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowrinq
by the ordinary stream to the ocean, so that they have no
time to spread themselves over the adjacent lands. A
failure of the inundation is perdition to a large portion
of the rice-crops.
But the country sometimes suffers fearfully from these
inundations. That of 1831 nearly destroyed all the sugar
plantations, and, three or four feet of water continuing to
cover the face of the country, almost all the cattle perished.
The rice-harvest was seriously affected, and the finest fruit-
trees swept away, so that it was said only one durian-tree
was left in Siam. But fruit abounded — fruit of singular
variety and excellence — in 1855, and the mischief of the
floods appeared to be wholly repaired.
When the waters of the Meinam are supposed to have
reached their highest point, the king deputes one hundred
Bonzes (Buddhist priests), who are instructed to command
the inundation to proceed no farther. These functionaries
embark on state barges, issue the royal mandate to the
waters, bidding them turn back in their course, and they
accompany their intervention with exorcisms, which are
sometimes ineffectual, and show that the falling of the
waters is no more subject to the commands of the sover-
eign of Siam than were the tides on the British shores
controlled by the Danish king. . . .
In ascending and descending the Meinam I was amused,
with the novel sight of fish leaving the river, — gliding over
the wet banks and losing themselves among the trees of
the jungle. Pallegoix asserts that such fish will wander
more than a league from the water. " Some years ago,"
I translate his words, "a great heat had dried up all the
ponds in the neighborhood of Ayuthia ; during the night
torrents of rain fell. Next day, going for a walk into the
country, how great was my surprise at seeing the ponds
almost full, and a quantity of fish leaping about. Whcnco
Bowring] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 219
have these fish come? I inquired of a laborer: yesterday
there was not one I Ho said they were come under favor
of the rain. In 1831, when fish were uncommonly cheap,
the Bishop of Siam thought fit to buy a supply of living
fish, and he poured fifty hundred-weight into his ponds;
but in less than a month nine-tenths escaped during a rain
that fell in the night. There are three species of this
wandering fish, called pla-xon, pla-duk, pla-?no. The first
is voracious, and about the size of a carp ; salted and dried,
it can be preserved for a year ; it is very abundant, is ex-
ported to China, Singapore, and Java, and is a particularly
wholesome and health-giving fish.
"The dog's-tongae is a fish shaped like the sole; it at-
taches itself to the bottom of boats, and makes a sonorous
noise, which is more musical when several are stuck to the
same bank and act in concert."
Kampfer (one of tho oldest and most authoritative of
Oriental travellers) puts forth the theory that were it not
for the vast pains it would require to trace out its several
channels through the forests and deserts, and to open a
navigation, it might be possible for vessels to go hence (from
Siam) to Bengal. Of the Meinam he remarks that the
inundations are the results of the dissolving of the snow
in the mountainous regions, aided by the heavy rains ; that
the land water is nitrous, the river sweet and wholesome;
that though the flow of water is naturally towards the sea,
the inundations principally benefit the upper and middlo
regions ; that the fertility of tho soil is such that the rico
grows as fast as the water rises, and that the ripe ears are
gathered by the reapers, and the straw, often of incredible
length, left in the water, and that if tho absence of tho
north wind prevent the return of the waters to their ordi-
nary channel, there is a great creation of malaria, whoso
effects are most pernicious to the public health, and are
220 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowring
sought to be warded off by imposing and costly religious
ceremonies through the whole country.
[Of the ancient capital of Siam, now greatly reduced in importance,
Bowring says :]
The ancient city of Ayuthia, whose pagodas and palaces
were the object of so much laudation from ancient trav-
ellers, and which was called the Oriental Venice, from the
abundance of its canals and the beauty of its public build-
ings, is now almost wholly in ruins, its towers and temples
whelmed in the dust and covered with rank vegetation.
The native name of Ayuthia was Sijan Thijan, meaning
" Terrestrial Paradise." The Siamese are in the habit of
giving very ostentatious names to their cities, which, as
La Loubere says, " do signify great things." Pallegoix
speaks of the ambitious titles given to Siamese towns,
among which he mentions " the City of Angels," " the City
of Archangels," and the " Celestial Spectacle." . . .
Ayuthia was formerly one of the most distinguished
cities of the East. The spires of the pagodas and pyramids,
blackened by time, still tower above the magnificent trees
which grow amidst the masses of ruins they overshadow.
The ancient city was several leagues in circumference.
Amidst the broken walls of palaces and temples are colossal
statues from fifty to sixty feet high. These are mostly of
brick, covered with brass of the thickness of two fingers.
The annals of Siam report that, in founding one of these
statues, twenty thousand pounds of copper, two thousand
pounds of silver, and four hundred pounds of gold were
employed. The walls of the city are overturned, — thick
and impenetrable masses of weeds, brushwood, and tall
trees, tenanted by bats and vultures, cover the vast desola-
tion. In the midst of the heaps of rubbish treasures are
often discovered.
Bowrinq] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 221
The new city of Ayuthia surrounds the ancient site.
It has two lines of floating bazaars. Its population is
about forty thousand. At a league's distance from the
city, on the northern side, is a majestic edifice called the
" Golden Mountain," built a.d. 1387. It is a pyramid four
hundred feet high, each side having a staircase by which
large galleries surrounding the building are mounted.
From the third stage there is a splendid prospect ; and
there are four corridors by which the dome is entered, in
whoso centre is a gilded image of Buddha, rendered fetid
by the depositions of millions of bats, which day and
night are flitting in dire confusion around the altar. The
dome is elevated one hundred and fifty feet above the
galleries, and terminates in a gilded spire.
[Bowring copies the following statement from a visitor to the ruins
of Ayuthia.]
The only visible remains of the old city aro a large num-
ber of wats, in different stages of decay. They extend
over an area of several miles of country, and lio hidden in
the trees and jungle, which have sprung up around them.
As the beauty of a Siamese temple consists not in its archi-
tecture, but in the quantity of arabesque work with which
the brick and stucco walls are covered, it soon yields to
the power of time and weather, and becomes, if neglected,
an unsightly heap of bricks and wood-work, overgrown
witli parasitical plants. It is thus at Ayuthia. A vast pile
of bricks and earth, with hero and there a spiro still rear-
ing itself to the skies, marks the spot whero onco stood a
shrine before which thousands wero wont to prostrate
themselves in superstitious adoration.
There stand also the formerly revered images of Gua-
dama, once resplendent with gold and jewels, but now
broken, mutilated, and without a shadow of their previous
19*
222 IIALF-nOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowring
splendor. There is one sacred spire of immense height and
size, which is still kept in some kind of repair, and which
is sometimes visited by the king. It is situated about four
miles from the town, in the centre of a plain of paddy-
fields. Boats and elephants are the only means of reach-
ing it, as there is no road whatever, except such as the
creeks and swampy paddy-fields afford. It bears much
celebrity among the Siamese, on account of its height, but
can boast of nothing attractive to foreigners but the fine
view which is obtained from the summit.
[Of Bangkok, the present capital of Siam, Mouhot, another travel-
ler, says :]
It i3 impossible to state the exact population of Bang-
kok, the census of all Eastern countries being extremely
imperfect. It is estimated, however, at from three to four
hundred thousand inhabitants. Owing to its semi-aquatic
site, we had reached the centre of the city while I believed
myself still in the country ; I was only undeceived by the
sight of various European buildings, and the steamers
which plough this majestic river, whose margins are
studded with floating houses and shops.
Bangkok is the Yenice of the East, and whether bent on
business or pleasure, you must go by water. In place of
the noise of carriages and horses, nothing is heard but the
dip of oars, the songs of sailors, or the cries of the Cipayes
(Siamese rowers). The river is the high street and the
boulevard, while the canals are the cross streets, along
which you glide, lying luxuriously at the bottom of your
canoe. . . .
On a little island in the middle of the river rises a famous
and rather remarkable pagoda, containing, I was told, the
bodies of their last kings. The effect of this pyramidal
structure reflected in the deep and limpid water, with its
Bowring] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 223
background of tropical verdure, was most striking. As for
the town, all that I saw of it was disgustingly dirty.
The Meinam deserves its beautiful name, — " Mother of
"Waters," — for its depth permits the largest vessels to coast
along its banks without danger: so closely, indeed, that
the birds may be heard singing gayly in the overhanging
branches, and the hum of numberless insects enlivens the
deck by night and by day. The whole effect is picturesque
and beautiful. Here and there houses are dotted about on
either bank, and numerous villages give variety to the dis-
tant landscape.
We met a great number of canoes managed with incred-
ible dexterity by men and women, and often even by chil-
dren, who are here early familiarized with the water. I
saw the governor's children, almost infants, throw them-
selves into the river, and swim and dive like water-fowl. It
was a curious and interesting sight, particularly from the
strong contrast between the little ones and the adults.
Here, as in the whole plain of Siam, which I afterwards
visited, I met most attractive children, tempting one to
stop and caress them ; but as they grow older they rapidly
lose all beauty, the habit of chewing the betel-nut pro-
ducing an unsightly blackening of the teeth and swelling
of the lips.
[Bowring gives the following further information about tho city.]
A great proportion of tho houses float on largo rafters,
and are sometimes seen moving up and down the river,
conveying all the belongings of a family to somo newly-
selected locality. It is a curious sight to witness these
locomotive abodes, sometimes consisting of many apart-
ments, loosened from the cables which have attached them
to a particular spot, and going forth on thoir travels to
fresh destinations. On the borders of tho river there aro
224 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowrinq
scarcely any but floating houses, which can at any time
be detached and removed bodily, and without any incon-
venience, at the will of the owner.
There are a few houses in Bangkok built of stone and
brick ; but those of the middle classes are of wood, while
the habitations of the poor are constructed of light bam-
boos, and roofed with leaves of the atap palm. Fires are
frequent ; and from the combustible character of the erec-
tions, hundreds of habitations are often destroyed. But in
a few days the mischief is generally repaired, for on such
occasions friends and neighbors lend a willing hand.
A house generally consists of two divisions ; one occu-
pied by the males, the other by the females. The piles on
which they are built are sunk three or four feet into the
ground ; and the floor is raised six or eight feet from its sur-
face, and is reached by a rude ladder, which, if the front of
the house be towards the river, is made accessible at low
tide. Of the floating houses, some are of boards, others
of bamboo, or either wicker-work or palm-leaves. These
houses have generally a veranda in front, and a small
wing at each end. When used for shops or warehouses
the whole frontage is removed, and the contents exposed
for inspection to the boats which pass by on the river.
The existence of the people of Bangkok may be called
amphibious. The children pass much of their time in the
water, paddling and diving and swimming as if it were
their native element. Boats often run against one another,
and those within them are submerged in the water ; but it
seldom happens that any life is lost, or mischief done to the
persons whose boats are run down. I have again and
again seen boats bottom upward, whose owners have floated
them to the shore, or otherwise repaired the damage done
as speedily as possible. The constant occurrence of petty
disasters seems to reconcile everybody to their conse-
Bowrikq] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 225
quence3. Generally speaking, the boats are paddled about
with consummate dexterity, the practice being acquired
from the earliest trainings of childhood. . . .
An elevation of eighty or one hundred feet will not
carry you up sufficiently high to see a hundredth part of
the houses that thickly stud the river-banks and all tho
canals, because of the high and dense foliage of tho cocoa-
nuts, betel, palmyra, mangosteen, tamarind, and a great
variety of other fruit and flowering trees which so hide
most of the vast prospect as to make it appear to be little
else than a dense primeval forest. But it is a forest of
" living green," and we may almost say of " never wither-
ing flowers." A richer foliage, year in and year out, cannot,
probably, be found anywhere on earth.
Should you ascend the great watch-tower near tho palace
of the first king, you would see at your feet, and to the
north and tho south a mile or two each way, a density of
human dwellings, but with the exception of the fifteen
acres included in Wat Pro, Chetoophon, and tho forty-threo
in the palace of the first king, and forty in the palace of
the second king, and twenty or more in Wat Maha-tat, tho
buildings are not nearly as compact as in our great "West-
ern cities. And looking to tho eastward, you would see,
even within the city walls, that " there remaincth yet much
land to be possessed." Thirty-five years ago tho area com-
prised within the citadel had much more of ground than
now, which might well have led foreign observers to think
that that unoccupied ground was left for the purpose of
having ample room for the people to flee to, and find
refuge under cover of tho city walls in timos of invasion
from the enemy.
Looking from this observatory westward, your vision
crosses the river but a little way, and then is expanded on
what seems to be an unbroken forest, although it is in
in — p
226 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowring
truth full of canals, houses, gardens, orchards, and paddy-
fields. Looking upon the face of the broad Meinam, you
will see her still and glistening like a dim mirror, lying in
the form of a monstrous letter S, and yet animated with
human beings, gliding on her bosom in all kinds of water-
craft, and you will see a line of shipping extending from
the upper fort down the river three miles, thickly moored
in the middle of the stream. The only objects to break the
even circle of the horizon as you look at it in the clearest
day from this stand-point are the mountains of Bangplasoi
and Petchaburee. But the air is very seldom clear enough
for this sight with the naked eye, and not very often even
with a glass.
[Funerals of important persons in Siam seem to be simply a merry-
making on a large scale. The following description of the funeral of
one of the high commissioners who negotiated the English treaty, and
who died a few days after the signing of the treaty, was furnished to
Sir John Bowring by an eye-witness.]
Tho building of the " men" or temple, in which the burn-
ing was to take place, occupied four months ; during the
whole of which time between three and four hundred men
were constantly engaged. The whole of it was executed
under the personal superintendence of the " Kalahome."
It would be difficult to imagine a more beautiful object
than this temple was, when seen from the opposite side of
the river. The style of architecture was similar to that
of the other temples in Siam ; the roof rising in the centre,
and thence running down in a series of gables, terminating
in curved points. The roof was covered entirely with
scarlet and gold, while the lower part of the building was
blue, with stars of gold. Below, the temple had four en-
trances leading directly to the pyre ; upon each side, as
you entered, were placed magnificent mirrors, which re-
Bowring] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 227
fleeted the whole interior of the building, which was deco-
rated with blue and gold, in the same manner as the
exterior. From the roof depended immense chandeliers,
which at night increased the effect beyond description.
Sixteen large columns, running from north to south, sup-
ported the roof. The entire height of the building must
have been one hundred and twenty feet, its length about
fifty feet, and breadth forty feet. In the centre was a
raised platform, about seven feet high, which was the place
upon which the urn containing the body was to be placed ;
upon each side of this were stairs covered with scarlet and
gold cloth.
' This building stood in the centre of a piece of ground
of about two acres extent, the whole of which ground was
covered over with close rattan-work, in order that visitors
might not wet their feet, the ground being very muddy.
This ground was enclosed by a wall, along the inside of
which myriads of lamps were disposed, rendering the night
as light as the day. The whole of the grounds belonging
to the adjoining temple contained nothing but tents, under
which Siamese plays were performed by dancing-girls
during the day; during the night, transparencies were in
vogue. Along the bank of the river, Chinese and Siamese
plays (performed by men) were in great force ; and to
judge by the frequent cheering of the populace, no small
talent was shown by the performers, which talent in Siam
consists entirely in obscenity and vulgarity.
All approaches were blocked up long boforo daylight
each morning by hundreds — nay, thousands of boats of
every description in Siam, sampans, mapet, ma Jiang, ma
gum, etc. ; these were filled with presents of white cloth,
no other presents being accepted or offered during a
funeral. How many ship-loads of fine shirting were pre-
sented daring those few days it is impossible to say. Somo
228 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowring
conception of the number of boats may be had from the
fact that, in front of my floating house, I counted seventy-
two large boats, all of which had brought cloth.
The concourse of people night and day was quite as
large as at any large fair in England; and the whole
scene, with the drums and shows, the illuminations and
the fireworks, strongly reminded me of Greenwich Fair at
night. The varieties in national costume were considerable,
from the long flowing dresses of the Mussulman to the
scanty panhung of the Siamese.
Upon the first day of the ceremonies, when I rose at
daylight, I was quite surprised at the number and elegance
of the large boats that were dashing about the river in
every direction; some of them with elegantly-formed little
spires (two in each boat) of a snowy-white, picked out with
gold ; others with magnificent scarlet canopies, with cur-
tains of gold ; others filled with soldiers dressed in red,
blue, or green, according to their respective regiments ; the
whole making a most effective tableau, far superior to any
we had during the time the embassy was here.
While I was admiring this scene, I heard the cry of
" Sedet" (the name of the king when he goes out), and
turning round, beheld the fleet of the king's boats sweep-
ing down. His majesty stopped at the men, where an
apartment had been provided for him. The moment the
king left his boat, the most intense stillness prevailed, — a
silence that was absolutely painful; this was, after the
lapse of a few seconds, broken by a slight stroke of a tom-
tom. At that sound, every one on shore and in the boats
fell on their knees, and silently and imperceptibly the
burge containing the high-priest parted from the shore at
the Somdetch's palace, and floated with the tide towards
the men. This barge was immediately followed by that
containing the urn, which was placed upon a throne in the
Bowring] THE VENICE OF THE EAST. 229
centre of the boat. One priest knelt upon the lower part
of the urn in front and one at the back. (It had been
constantly watched since his death.) Nothing could ex-
ceed the silence and immovability of the spectators ; the
tales I used to read of nations being turned to statues were
here realized, with the exception that all had the same
attitude. It was splendid, but it was fearful. During the
whole of the next day the urn stayed in the men, in order
that the people might come and pay their last respects.
The urn, or rather, its exterior cover, was composed of
the finest gold, elegantly carved and studded with innumer-
able diamonds. It was about five feet high, and two feet
in diameter.
Upon the day of the burning, the two kings arrived
about four p.m. The golden cover was taken off, and an
interior urn of brass now contained the body, which rested
upon cross-bars at the bottom of the urn. Beneath were
all kind of odoriferous gums.
The first king, having distributed yellow cloths to an in-
definite quantity of priests, ascended the steps which led to
the pyre, holding in his hand a lighted candle, and set fire
to the inflammable materials beneath the body. After him
came the second king, who placed a bundle of candles in
the flames ; then followed the priests, then the princes, and
lastly the relations and friends of the deceased. The
flames rose constantly above the vase, but there was no
unpleasant smell.
His majesty, after all had thrown in their candles,
returned to his seat, where he distributed to the Europeans
a certain number of limes, each containing a gold ring or a
small piece of money ; then he commenced scrambling the
limes, and seemed to take particular pleasure in just throw-
ing them between the princes and the missionaries, in
order that they might meet together in the " tug of war."
20
230 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Pallegoix
The next day, the bones were taken out, and distrib-
uted among his relations ; and this closed the ceremonies.
During the whole time, the river each night was covered
with fireworks; and in Siam the pja'otechnic art is far
from being despicable.
THE FOOTSTEP OF BUDDHA.
BISHOP PALLEGOIX.
[Bishop Pallegoix, a French ecclesiastic who long resided in Siam,
wrote a valuable work on that country, entitled " Description du
Royaume Thai ou Siam." To this work Sir John Bowring is largely
indebted, and we append his translation of the venerable bishop's ac-
count of one of the leading show-places of the country. The celebrated
footstep was discovered early in the seventeenth century. Its locality
has since been a favorite place of resort for pilgrims. Bowring thus
introduces the subject :]
Bishop Pallegoix speaks of a large assemblage of
gayly-ornamented barges filled with multitudes of people
in holiday dresses, whom he met above Ayuthia, going on
a pilgrimage to the " foot of Buddha." The women and
girls wore scarfs of silk and bracelets of gold and silver,
and filled the air with their songs, to which troops of
priests and young men responded in noisy music. The
place of debarkation is Tha Bua, which is on the road to
Phrabat, where the footprint of the god is found. More
than five hundred barges wei*e there, all illuminated : a
drama was performed on the shore ; there was a great dis-
play of vocal and instrumental music, tea-drinking, playing
at cards and dice, and the merry festivities lasted through
the whole night.
Early the following day tho cortege departed by the
Pallegoix] THE FOOTSTEP OF BUDDHA. 231
river. It consisted of princes, nobles, rich men, ladies,
girls, priests, all handsomely clad. They landed, and many
proceeded on foot, while the more distinguished mounted
on elephants to move towards the sacred mountain. In
such localities the spirit of fanaticism is usually intem-
perate and persecuting ; and the bishop says the governor
received him angrily, and accused him of " intending to
debauch his people by making them Christians." But he
was softened by presents and explanations, and ultimately
gave the bishop a passport, recommending him to " all tho
authorities and chiefs of villages under his command as a
Christian priest (farang), and as his friend, and ordering
that he should be kindly treated, protected, and furnished
with all the provisions he might require."
Of his visit to the sacred mountain, so much the resort
of Buddhist pilgrims, Pallegoix gives this account :
I engaged a guide, mounted an elephant, and took the
route of Phrabat, followed by my people. I was surprised
to find a wide and excellent road, paved with bricks, and
opened in a straight line across the forests. On both sides
of the road, at a league's distance, were halls or stations,
with wells dug for the use of the pilgrims. Soon the road
became crooked, and we stopped to bathe in a large pond.
At four o'clock we reached the magnificent monastery of
Phrabat, built on 1 ' the declivity, but nearly at the foot of a
tall mountain formed by fantastic rocks of a bluish color.
The monastery has several walls surrounding it ; and
having entered the second enclosure, we found the abbe-
prince, seated on a raised floor, and directing the labors of
a body of workmen. His attendants called on us to pros-
trate ourselves, but we did not obey them. "Silence!" he
said ; "you know not that tho farang honor their grandees
by standing erect." I approached, and presented him with
a bottlo of sal-volatile, which he smelt with delight.
232 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palleqoix
I requested he would appoint some one to conduct us to
see the vestige of Buddha ; and he called his principal
assistant (the balat), and directed him to accompany us.
The balat took us round a great court surrounded with
handsome edifices, showed us two large temples, and we
reached a broad marble staircase with balustrades of gilded
copper, and made the round of the terrace which is the
base of the monument. All the exterior of this splendid
edifice is gilt ; its pavement is square, but it takes the form
of a dome, and is terminated in a pyramid a hundred and
twenty feet high. The gates and windows, which are
double, are exquisitely wrought. The outer gates are in-
laid with handsome devices in mother-of-pearl, and the
inner gates are adorned with gilt pictures representing the
events in the history of Buddha.
The interior is yet more brilliant ; the pavement is cov-
ered with silver mats. At the end, on a throne orna-
mented with precious stones, is a statue of Buddha in
massive silver, of the height of a man ; in the middle is a
silver grating, which surrounds the vestige, whose length
is about eighteen inches. It is not distinctly visible, being
covered with rings, ear ornaments, bracelets, and gold
necklaces, the offerings of devotees when they come to
worship. The history of the relic is this : In the year
1602, notice was sent to the king, at Ayuthia, that a dis-
covery had been made at the foot of a mountain of what
appeared to be a foot-mark of Buddha. The king sent his
learned men and the most intelligent priests to report if the
lineaments of the imprint resembled the description of the
foot of Buddha as given in the sacred Pali writings. The
examination having taken place, and the report being in
the affirmative, the king caused the monastery of Phrabat
to be built, which has been enlarged and enriched by his
successors.
Pallegoix] THE FOOTSTEP OF BUDDHA. 233
After visiting the monument, the balat escorted us to a
deep well, cut out of the solid stone ; the water is good,
and sufficient to provide for crowds of pilgrims. The abbe-
prince is the sovereign lord of the mountain and its en-
virons within a circuit of eight leagues ; he has from four
to five thousand men under his orders, to be employed as
he directs in the service of the monastery. On the day
of my visit a magnificent palanquin, such as is used by
great princes, was brought to him as a present from the
king. He had the civility to entertain us as well as ho
could. I remarked that the kitchen was under the care
of a score of young girls, and they gave the name of pages
to the youths who attended us. In no other monastery is
this usage to be found.
His highness caused us to be lodged in a handsome
wooden house, and gave me two guards of honor to serve
and watch over me, forbidding my going out at night on
account of tigers. The following morning I took leave of
the good abbe-prince, mounted my elephant, and, taking
another road, we skirted the foot of the mountain till we
reached a spring of spouting waters. We found there a
curious plant, whose leaves were altogether like the shape
and the colors of butterflies. We took a simple breakfast
in the first house we met with ; and at four o'clock in the
afternoon we reached our boat, and after a comfortable
night's rest we left Tha Eua to return to our church at
Ayuthia.
[M. Mouhot thus describes his journey to the same locality :]
At seven o'clock in the morning my host was waiting
for mo at the door, with elephants mounted by their
drivers, and other attendants necessary for our expedition.
At the same hour in tho evening wo reached our destina-
tion, and beforo many minutes had elapsed all tho inhabi-
20*
234 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Palleooix
tants were informed of our arrival ; priests and mountain-
eers were all full of curiosity to look at the stranger.
Among the principal people of the place I distributed
pome little presents, with which they were delighted ; but
my fire-arms and otber weapons were especially tbe sub-
jects of admiration. I paid a visit to the prince of the
mountain, who was detained at home by illness. He or-
dered breakfast for me, and, expressing his regret at not
being able to accompany me, sent four men to serve as
guides and assistants. As a return for his kindness and
urbanity, I presented him with a small pistol, which he
received with extreme gratification.
We proceeded afterwards to the western side of the
mountain, where is the famous temple containing the foot-
print of Samona-Kodom, the Buddha of Indo-China. I was
filled with astonishment and admiration on arriving at this
point, and feel utterly incapable of describing the spectacle
which met my view. What convulsion of Nature, what
force, could have upheaved those immense rocks, piled one
upon another in such fantastic forms? Beholding such a
chaos, I could well understand how the imagination of
this simple people, who are ignorant of the true God,
should have here discovered signs of the marvellous and
traces of their false divinities. It was as if a second and
recent deluge had just abated ; this sight alone was enough
to recompense me for all my fatigues.
On the mountain summit, in the crevices of the rocks,
in the valleys, in the caverns, all around, could be seen the
footprints of animals, those of elephants and tigers being
most strongly marked ; but I am convinced that many of
them were formed by antediluvian and unknown animals.
All these creatures, according to the Siamese, formed the
cortege of Buddha in his passage over the mountain.
As for the temple itself, there is nothing remarkable
MounoT] A VISIT TO CHANTABOUN. 235
about it ; it is like most of the pagodas in Siara, — on the
one hand unfinished, and on the other in a state of dilapi-
dation j and it is built of brick, although both stone and
marble abound at Phrabat. The approach to it is by a
flight of large steps, and the walls are covered with little
pieces of colored glass, forming arabesques in great variety,
which glitter in the sun with striking effect. The panels
and cornices are gilt ; but what chiefly attracts attention
by the exquisite workmanship are the massive ebony doors,
inlaid with mother-of-pearl of different colors, and arranged
in beautiful designs. The interior of the temple does not
correspond with the outside ; the floor is covered with
silver matting, and the walls bear traces of gilding, but
they are blackened by time and smoke. A catafalquo
rises in the centre, surrounded with strips of gilded serge,
and there is to be seen the famous footprint of Buddha.
To this sacred spot the pilgrims bring their offerings, —
cut paper, cups, dolls, and an immense number of toys,
many of them being wrought in gold and silver.
A VISIT TO CHANTABOUN.
HENRY MOUHOT.
[Henry Mouhot, an adventurous traveller, who lost his life in the
jungles of Laos, has told us more concerning the interior of Si am,
Laos, and Cambodia than any other traveller. His narrative is given
in lively and attractive language, and we select from it a description
of an excursion to Chantaboun, on the southeastward coast of Siam.]
On the night of the 31st December, our boat was making
rapid way under the influence of a violent wind. I was
seated on the little roof of leaves and interlaced bamboo,
236 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Mouhot
which formed a sort of protection to me against the rain
and cold night air, bidding adieu to the departing year,
and welcoming in the new; praying that it might be a
fortunate one for me, and, above all, that it might be full
of blessings for all those dear to me. The night was dark ;
we were but two miles from land, and the mountains loomed
black in the distance. The sea alone was brilliant with that
phosphoric light so familiar to all voyagers on the deep. For
a couple of hours we had been followed by two sharks, who
left behind them a luminous and waving track. All was
silent in our boat ; nothing was to be heard but the wind
whistling among the rigging and the rushing of the waves :
and I felt at that midnight hour — alone, and far from all I
loved — a sadness which I vainly tried to shake off, and a
disquietude which I could not account for.
Suddenly we felt a violent shock, immediately followed
by a second, and then the vessel remained stationary.
Every one cried out in alarm ; the sailors rushed forward ;
in a moment the sail was furled and torches lighted, but,
sad to say, one of our number did not answer to his name.
One of the young boys, who had been asleep on deck, had
been thrown into the sea by the shock. Uselessly wo
looked for the poor lad, whose body doubtless became the
prey of the sharks. Fortunately for us, only one side of
the boat had touched the rock, and it had then run
aground on the sand : so that after getting it off we
were able to anchor not far from the shore.
On the 3d January, 1859, after having crossed the little
gulf of Chantaboun, the sea being at the time very rough,
we came in sight of the famous Lion Kock, which stands
out like the extremity of a cape at the entrance of this
port. From a distance it resembles a lion couchant, and
it is difficult to believe that Nature unassisted has formed
this singular colossus. The Siamese — a superstitious race
Mouhot] A VISIT TO CIIANTABOUN. 237
— hold this stone in great veneration, as they do eveiy-
thing that appears to them extraordinary or marvellous.
It is said that the captain of an English ship, once anchored
in the port, seeing the lion, proposed to buy it, and that, on
the governor of the place refusing the offer, he pitilessly
fired all his guns at the poor ani?nal. This has been recorded
in Siamese verse, with a touching complaint against the
cruelty of the Western barbarians.
[Purchasing a boat, M. Mouhot made excursions to the various
islands in the gulf.]
I passed several days at Cape Liaut, part of the time
being occupied in exploring the many adjacent islands.
It is the most exquisite part of the gulf, and will bear
comparison, for its beauty, with the Strait of Sunda, near
the coast of Java. Two years ago, when the king visited
Chantaboun, they built for him on the shore, at the ex-
tremity of the cape, a house and kiosk, and, in memory of
that event, they also erected on the top of the mountain a
small tower, from which a very extensive view may be
enjoyed.
I also made acquaintance with Ko-Kram, the most beau-
tiful and the largest of all the islands north of the gulf
between Bangkok and Chantaboun. The whole island
consists of a wooded mountain-range, easy of access, and
containing much oligist iron. On the morning of the
29th, at sunrise, the breeze lessened, and when we were
about three miles from the strait which separates the Isle
of Arec from that of the " Cerfs," it ceased altogether.
For the last half-hour we were indebted solely to our oars
for the little progress made, being exposed to all the glare
of a burning sun ; and the atmosphere was heavy and suf-
focating. All of a sudden, to my great astonishment, the
water began to be agitated, and our light boat was tossed
238 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Motjhot
about by the waves. I knew not what to think, and was
seriously alarmed, when our pilot called out, " Look how
the sea boils I" Turning in the direction indicated, I be-
held the sea really in a state of ebullition, and very shortly
afterwards an immense jet of water and steam, which lasted
for several minutes, was thrown into the air. I had never
before witnessed such a phenomenon, and was now no
longer astonished at the powerful smell of sulphur which
had nearly overpowered me in Ko-Man. It was really a
submarine volcano, which burst out, more than a mile from
the place where we had anchored three days before.
On March 1 we reached Ven-Ven, at Paknam-Ven, the
name of the place where the branches of the river unite.
This river, whose width at the mouth is above three miles,
is formed by the union of several streams flowing from the
mountains, as well as by an auxiliary of the Chantaboun
River, which, serving as a canal, unites these two places.
Ascending the stream for fourteen or fifteen miles, a large
village is reached, called Bandiana, but Paknam-Ven is
only inhabited by five families of Chinese fishermen.
Crocodiles are more numerous in the river at Paknam-
Ven than in that at Chantaboun. I continually saw them
throw themselves from the banks into the water : and it
has frequently happened that careless fishers, or persons
who have imprudently fallen asleep on the shore, have be-
come their prey, or have afterwards died of the wounds
inflicted by them. This latter has happened twice during
my stay here.
It is amusing, however, — for one is interested in observing
the habits of animals all over the world, — to see the manner
in which these creatures catch the apes, which sometimes
take a fancy to play with them. Close to the bank lies
the crocodile, his body in the water, and only his capacious
mouth above the surface, ready to seize anything that may
Mouhot] A VISIT TO CHANTABOUN. 239
come within reach. A troop of apes catch sight of him,
seem to consult together, approach little by little, and
commence their frolics, by turns actors and spectators.
One of the most active or most impudent jumps from
branch to branch, till within a respectful distance of the
crocodile, when, hanging \>y one claw, and with the dex-
terity peculiar to these animals, he advances and retires,
now giving his enemy a blow with his paw, at another
time only pretending to do so. The other apes, enjoying
the fun, evidently wish to take a part in it ; but the other
branches being too high, they form a sort of chain by lay-
ing hold of each other's paws, and thus swing backwards
and forwards, while any one of them who comes within
reach of the crocodile torments him to the best of his
ability. Sometimes the terrible jaws suddenly close, but
not upon the audacious ape, who just escapes ; then there
are cries of exultation from the tormentors, w T ho gambol
about joyfully. Occasionally, however, the claw is en-
trapped, and the victim dragged with the rapidity of
lightning beneath the water, when the whole troop dis-
perse, groaning and shrieking. This misadventure does
not, however, prevent their recommencing the game a
few days afterwards.
[From the coast, Mouhot extended his journey to the hill-country
of Chantaboun, of whose features he gives us some interesting details.]
The heat becomes greater and greater, the thermometer
having risen to 102° Fahr. in the shade : thus hunting is
now a painful, and sometimes impossible, exertion, any-
where except in the woods. A few days ago I took advan-
tage of a short spell of cloudy, and consequently cooler
weather, to visit a waterfall I had heard of in the almost
desert district of Prion, twelve miles from Kombau.
A tier reaching the last-named place, our course lay for
240 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Mouhot
about an hour and a half along a charming valley, nearly
as smooth as a lawn, and as ornamental as a park. By
and by, entering a forest, we kept by the banks of a
stream, which, shut in between two mountains, and studded
with blocks of granite, increases in size as you approach
its source.
Before long we arrived at the fall, which must be a fine
spectacle in the rainy season. It then pours down from
immense perpendicular rocks, forming, as it were, a circular
peaked wall, nearly thirty metres in diameter, and twenty
metres in height. The force of the torrent having been
broken by the rocky bed into which it descends, there is
another fall of ten feet ; and lower down, after a third fall
of fifteen feet, it passes into an ample basin, which, like a
mirror, reflects the trees and cliffs around. Even during
the dry season, the spring, then running from beneath
enormous blocks of granite, flows in such abundance as to
feed several streams.
I was astonished to see my two servants, heated by their
long walk, bathe in the cold water, and on my advising
them to wait for a little, they replied that the natives were
always accustomed to bathe when hot.
We all turned stone-cutters, that is to say, we set to
work to detach the impression of an unknown animal from
the surface of an immense mass of granite rising up out
of one of the mountain torrents. A Chinese had in Jan-
uary demanded so exorbitant a sum for this that I had
abandoned the idea, intending to content myself with an
impression in wax, but Phrai proposed to me to undertake
the work, and by our joint labor it was soon accomplished.
The Siamese do not much like my meddling with their
rocks, and their superstition is also somewhat startled
when I happen to kill a white ape, although when the
animal is dead and skinned they are glad to obtain a cutlet
Mouhot] A VISIT TO CIIANTABOUN. 241
or steak from it, for they attribute to the flesh of this
creature great medicinal virtues.
The rainy season is drawing near ; storms become more
and more frequent, and the growling of the thunder is
frightful. Insects are in greater numbers, and the ants,
which are now looking out for a shelter, invade the dwell-
ings, and ai*e a perfect pest to my collections, not to speak
of myself and my clothes. Several of my books and maps
have been almost devoured in one night. Fortunately
there are no mosquitoes, but to make up for this, there is
a small species of leech, which, when it rains, quits tho
streams and infests the woods, rendering an excursion
there, if not impracticable, at all events very disagreeable.
You have constantly to be pulling them off you by dozens,
but, as some always escape observation, you are sure to
return home covered with blood ; often my white trousers
are dyed as red as those of a French soldier.
The animals have now become scarcer, which in different
ways is a great disappointment to all, for Phrai and Niou
feasted sumptuously on the flesh of the apes, and made a
profit by selling their gall to the Chinese doctors in Chan-
taboun. Hornbills have also turned wild, so we can find
nothing to replenish our larder but an occasional kid.
Largo stags feed on the mountain, but one requires to
watch all night to get within range of them. There are
not many birds to be seen, neither quails, partridges, nor
pheasants ; and the few wild-fowl which occasionally make
their appearance are so difficult to shoot that it is waste
both of time and ammunition to make the attempt.
In this part of the country the Siamese declare they
cannot cultivate bananas on account of the elephants,
which at certain times come down from the mountains and
devour the leaves, of which they are very fond. Tho
royal and other tigers abound here; every night they
III.— L q 21
242 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Motthot
prowl about in the vicinity of the bouses, and in the morn-
ings we can see the print of their large claws in the sand
and in the clay near streams. By day they retire to the
mountain, where they lurk in close and inaccessible tbickets.
Now and then you may get near enough to one to have a
shot at him, but generally, unless suffering from hunger,
they fly at the approach of man.
A few days ago I saw a young Chinese who had nineteen
wounds on his body, made by one of these animals. Ho
was looking out from a tree about nine feet high, when the
cries of a young kid, tied to another tree at a short dis-
tance, attracted a large tiger. The young man fired at it,
but, though mortally wounded, the creature, collecting all
his strength for a final spring, leaped on his enemy, seized
him and pulled him down, tearing his flesh frightfully with
teeth and claws as they rolled on the ground. Luckily for
the unfortunate Chinese, it was a dying effort, and in a few
moments more the tiger relaxed its hold and breathed its last.
In the mountains of Chantaboun, and not far from my
present abode, precious stones of fine water occur. There
is even at the east of the town an eminence, which they
call " the mountain of precious stones ;" and it would
appear from the account of Mgr. Pallegoix that at one
time they were abundant in that locality, since in about
half an hour he picked up a handful, which is as much as
now can be found in a twelvemonth, nor can they be pur-
chased at any price.
It seems that I have seriously offended the poor Thai *
of Kombau by carrying away the footprints. I have met
several natives who tell me they have broken arms, that
they can no longer work, and will always henceforth be in
poverty ; and I find that I am considered to be answerablo
* The Siamese were formerly called Thai.
Mouhot] A VISIT TO CHANTABOUN. 243
for this because I irritated the genius of the mountain.
Henceforth they will have a good excuse for idleness.
The Chinese have equally amused me. They imagine
that some treasure ought to be found beneath the foot-
prints, and that the block which I have carried away must
possess great medicinal virtues ; so Apait and his friends
have been rubbing the under part of the stone every morn-
ing against another piece of granite, and, collecting care-
fully the dust that fell from it, have mixed it with water
and drunk it fasting, fully persuaded that it is a remedy
against all ills. Here they say that it is faith which cures;
and it is certain that pills are often enough administered in
the civilized West which have no more virtue than the
granite powder swallowed by old Apait. . . .
The fruit here is exquisite, particularly the mango, the
mangosteen, the pineapple, so fragrant and melting in the
mouth, and, what is superior to anything I ever imagined
or tasted, the famous durian or dourion, which justly merits
the title of king of fruits. But to enjoy it thoroughly one
must have time to overcome the disgust at first inspired
by its smell, which is so strong that I could not stay in the
same place with it. On first tasting it I thought it like
the flesh of some animal in a state of putrefaction, but
after four or five trials I found the aroma exquisite. The
durian is about two-thirds the size of a jacca, and like it
is encased in a thick and prickly rind, which protects it
from the teeth of squirrels and other nibblers ; on opening
it there are to be found ten cells, each containing a kernel
larger than a date, and surrounded b} r a sort of white, or
sometimes yellow cream, which is most delicious. By an
odd freak of nature, not only is there the first repugnance
to it to overcome, but if you eat it often, though with ever
bo groat moderation, you find yourself next day covered
with blotchos, as if attacked with measles, so heating is its
244 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Moithot
nature. A durian picked is never good, for when fully
ripe it falls of itself; when cut open it must be eaten at
once, as it quickly spoils, but otherwise it will keep for
three days. At Bangkok one of them costs one sellung ;
at Chantaboun nine may be obtained for the same sum.
I had come to the conclusion that there was little danger
in traversing the woods here, and in our search for butter-
flies and other insects we often took no other arms than a
hatchet and hunting-knife, while Niou had become so confi-
dent as to go by night with Phrai to lie in wait for stags.
Our sense of security was, however, rudely shaken when
one evening a panther rushed upon one of the dogs close
to my door. The poor animal uttered a heart-rending cry,
which brought us all out, as well as our neighbors, each
torch in hand. Finding themselves face to face with a
panther, they in their turn raised their voices in loud
screams ; but it was too late for me to get my gun, for in
a moment the beast was out of reach.
A few days ago I made up my mind to penetrate into
a grotto on Mount Sabab, half-way between Chantaboun
and Kombau, so deep, I am told, that it extends to the top
of the mountain. I set out, accompanied by Phrai and
Niou, furnished with all that was necessary for our excur-
sion. On reaching the grotto we lighted our torches, and
after scaling a number of blocks of granite, began our
march. Thousands of bats, roused by the lights, com-
menced flying round and round us, flapping our faces with
their wings, and extinguishing our torches every minute.
Phrai walked first, trying the ground with a lance which
he held ; but we had scarcely proceeded a hundred paces
when he threw himself back upon me with every mark of
terror, crying out, " A serpent ! go back !" As he spoke I
perceived an enormous boa about fifteen feet off, with erect
head and open mouth, ready to dart upon him. My gun
Mouhot] A VISIT TO CHANTABOVN. 245
being loaded, one barrel with two bullets, the other with
shot, I took aim and firod off both at once.
AVe were immediately enveloped in a thick cloud of
smoke, and could see nothing, but prudently beat an in-
stant retreat. Wo waited anxiously for some time at the
entrance of the grotto, prepared to do battle with our enemy
should he present himself; but he did not appear. My guide
now boldly lighted a torch, and, furnished with my gun re-
loaded and a long rope, went in again alone. Wo held one
end of the rope, that at the least signal we might fly to his
assistance. For some minutes, which appeared terribly
long, our anxiety was extreme ; but equally great was our
relief and gratification when we saw him approach, draw-
ing after him the rope, to which was attached an immense
boa. The head of the reptile had been shattered by my
fire, and his death had been instantaneous, but we sought
to penetrate no farther into the grotto.
I had been told that the Siamese were about to celebrate
a grand fete at a pagoda about three miles off, in honor of
a superior priest who died last year, and whose remains
were now to be burned according to the custom of the
country. I went to see this singular ceremony, hoping to
gain some information respecting the amusements of this
people, and arrived at the place about eight in the morning,
the time for breakfast, or kinkao (rice-eating). Nearly
two thousand Siamese of both sexes from Chantaboun and
the surrounding villages, some in carriages and some on
foot, were scattered over the ground in the neighborhood
of the pagoda. All wore new sashes and dresses of bril-
liant colors, and the effect of the various motley groups
was most striking.
Under a vast roof of planks supported by columns,
forming a kind of shod, bordered by pieces of stuff covered
with grotesque paintings representing men and animals in
21*
246 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Mouhot
the most extraordinary attitudes, was constructed an imi-
tation rock of colored pasteboard, on which was placed a
catafalque lavishly decorated with gilding and carved
work, and containing an urn in which were the precious
remains of the priest. Here and there were arranged
pieces of paper and stuff in the form of flags. Outside
the building was prepared the funeral pile, and at some ^
distance off a platform was erected for the accommodation
of a band of musicians, who played upon different instru-
ments of the country. Farther away some women had
established a market for the sale of fruit, bonbons, and
arrack, while in another quarter some Chinamen and
Siamese Avere performing, in a little theatre run up for
the occasion, scenes something in the style of those ex-
hibited by our strolling actors at fairs. This fete, which
lasted for three days, had nothing at all in it of a funereal
character.
I had gone there hoping to witness something new and
remai'kable, for these peculiar rites are only celebrated in
honor of sovereigns, nobles, and other persons of high
standing; but I had omitted to take into consideration the
likelihood of my being myself an object of curiosity to the
crowd. Scarcely, however, had I appeared in the pagoda,
followed by Phrai and Niou, when on all sides I heard the
exclamation, " Farang ! come and see the farang !" and im-
mediately both Siamese and Chinamen left their bowls of
rice and pressed about me. I hoped that, once their curi-
osity was gratified, they would leave me in peace ; but in-
stead of that the crowd grew thicker and thicker, and fol-
lowed me wherever I went, so that at last it became almost
unbearable, and all the more so as most of them were
already drunk either with opium or arrack, — many, in-
deed, with both.
I quitted the pagoda and was glad to get into the fresh
Mouhot] A VISIT TO CHANTABOUN. 247
air again, but the respite was of short duration. Passing
the entrance of a large hut temporarily built of planks, I
saw some chiefs of provinces sitting at breakfast. The
senior of the party advanced straight towards me, shook me
by the hand, and begged me in a cordial and polite manner
to enter ; and I was glad to avail myself of his kind offer,
and take refuge from the troublesome people. My hosts
overwhelmed me with attentions, and forced upon me
pastry, fruit, and bonbons ; but the crowd who had fol-
lowed me forced their way into the building and hemmed
us in on all sides ; even the roof was covered with gazers.
All of a sudden we heard the walls crack, and the whole
of the back of the hut, yielding under the pressure, fell in,
and people, priests, and chiefs tumbling one upon another,
the scene of confusion was irresistibly comic. I profiled
by the opportunity to escape, swearing — though rather late
in the day — that they should not catch me again.
I quitted with regret these beautiful mountains, where
I had passed so many happy hours with the poor but hos-
pitable inhabitants. On the evening before and the morn-
ing of my departure all the people of the neighborhood,
Chinese and Siamese, came to say adieu, and offer me pres-
ents of fruits, dried fish, fowls, tobacco, and rice, cooked
in various ways with brown sugar, all in greater quantities
than I could possibly carry away. The farewells of these
good mountaineers were touching ; they kissed my hands
and feet, and I confess that my eyes were not dry. They
accompanied me to a great distance, begging me not to
forget them, and to pay them another visit.
248 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowrinq
THE ELEPHANT IN SIAM.
SIR JOHN BOWRING.
[The varieties of animal and vegetable life in Siam are almost innu-
merable. From the elephant and rhinoceros to the smallest insect ;
from the great Indian fig-tree to the smallest shrub, the diversity of
life is extraordinary. Of the animals of this country the largest is at
the same time the most interesting, and we select from Bowring's work
some descriptive sketches of the habits and utility of the Siamese
elephant, and of the kingly pomp with which the white elephant is
entertained.]
Elephants are abundant in the forests of Siam, and
grow sometimes to the height of twelve or thirteen feet.
The habits of the elephant are gregarious ; but though he
does not willingly attack a man, he is avoided as danger-
ous ; and a troop of elephants will, when going down to a
river to drink, submerge a boat and its passengers. The
destruction even of the wild elephant is prohibited by
royal orders, yet many are surreptitiously destroyed for
the sake of their tusks. At a certain time of the year tame
female elephants are let loose in the forests. They are re-
called by the sound of a horn, and return accompanied by
wild males, whom they compel, by blows of the proboscis,
to enter the walled prisons which have been prepared for
their capture. The process of taming commences by keep-
ing them for several days without food ; then a cord is
passed round their feet, and they are attached to a strong
column. The delicacies of which they are most fond are
then supplied them, such as sugar-canes, plantains, and
fresh herbs; and at the end of a few days the animal is
domesticated and resigned to his fate.
Bowring] THE ELEPHANT IN SI AM. 249
Without the aid of the elephant it would scarcely bo
possible to traverse the woods and jungles of Siam. He
makes his way as he goes, crushing with his trunk all that
resists his progress; over deep morasses or sloughs ho
drags himself on his knees and belly. When he has to
cross a stream, he ascertains the depth by his proboscis,
advances slowly, and when he is out of his depth he swims,
breathing through his trunk, which is visible when the
whole of his body is submerged. He descends into ravines
impassable by man, and by the aid of his trunk ascends
steep mountains. His ordinary pace is about four to five
miles an hour, and he will journey day and night if prop-
erly fed. When weary he strikes the ground with his
trunk, making a sound resembling a horn, which announces
to his driver that he desires repose. In Siam the howdah
is a great roofed basket, in which the traveller, with the
aid of his cushions, comfortably ensconces himself. The
motion is disagreeable at first, but ceases to be so after a
little practice.
Elephants in Siam are much used in warlike expe-
ditions, both as carriers and combatants. All the nobles
are mounted on them, and as many as a thousand arc some-
times collected. They aro marched against palisades and
intrenchments. In the late war with Cochin-China the
Siamese general surprised the enemy with some hundreds
of elephants, to whose tails burning torches were at-
tached. They broko into the camp, and destroyed more
than a thousand Cochin-Chinese, the remainder of tho
army escaping by flight.
Of elephants in Siam, M. de Bruguiercs gives some curi-
ous anecdotes. He savs that there was one in Bangkok
which was habitually sent by his keeper to collect a supply
of food, which he never failed to do, and that it was
divided regularly between his master and himself on his
250 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowring
return home; and that there was another elephant, which
stood at the door of the king's palace, before whom a
large vessel filled with rice was placed, which he helped
out with a spoon to every talapoin (bonze) who passed.
His account of the Siamese mode of capturing wild
elephants is not dissimilar to that which has been already
given. But he adds that, in taming the captured animals,
every species of torture is used : he is lifted by a machine
in the air, — fire is placed under his belly, — he is compelled
to fast, — he is goaded with sharp irons, till reduced to
absolute submission. The tame elephants co-operate with
their masters, and, when thoroughly subdued, the victim is
marched away with the rest.
Some curious stories are told by La Loubere of the
sagacity of elephants, as reported by the Siamese. In one
case, an elephant upon whose head his keeper had cracked
a cocoa-nut, kept the fragments of the nut-shell for several
days between his fore legs, and having found an opportu-
nity of trampling on and killing the keeper, the elephant
deposited the fragments upon the dead body.
I heard many instances of sagacity which might furnish
interesting anecdotes for the zoologist. The elephants are
undoubtedly proud of their gorgeous trappings and of the
attentions they receive. I was assured that the removal
of the gold and silver rings from their tusks was resented
by the elephants as an indignity, and that they exhibited
great satisfaction at their restoration. The transfer of an
elephant from a better to a worse stabling is said to be
accompanied with marks of displeasure.
[The white elephant— which is rarely white, except in spots, hut of
a faded pink or light mahogany hue — is very highly regarded. In
1870 one was brought to Bangkok which was really white. Bowring
thus describes the treatment of this animal.]
She occupied a large apartment within the grounds of
Bowrino] THE ELEPHANT IN SI AM. 251
the first king's palace, and not far off, in an elevated
position, was placed a golden chair for the king to occupy
when ho should come to visit her.
She had a number of attendants, who were feeding her
with fresh grass (which I thought she treated somewhat
disdainfully), sugar-cane, and plantains. She was richly
caparisoned in cloth of gold and ornaments, some of which
she tore away, and was chastised for the offence by a blow
on the proboscis \>y one of the keepers. She was fastened
to an upright pole by ropes covered with scarlet cloth, but
at night was released, had the liberty of the room, and
slept against a matted and ornamented partition, sloping
from the floor at about an angle of forty five degrees. In
a corner of the room was a caged monkey of pure white,
but seemingly very active and mischievous. The prince
fed the elephant with sugar-cane, which appeared her
favorite food ; the grass she seemed to toss about rather
than to eat. She had been trained to make a salaam by lift-
ing her proboscis over the neck, and did so more than once
at the prince's bidding. The king sent me the bristles of
the tail of the last white elephant to look at; they were
fixed in a gold handle, such as ladies use for their nosegays
at balls.
[The presence of one of these animals is believed to be a pledge of
prosperity to the king and country.]
Hence the white elephant is sought with intense ardor,
the fortunate finder rewarded with honors, and he is
treated with attention almost reverential. This prejudice
is traditional, and dates from the earliest times. When a
tributary king, or governor of a province, has captured a
white elephant, ho is directed to open a road through tlio
forest for the comfortable transit of the sacred animal; and
when he roaches the Meinam, he is received on a magnifi-
252 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bo wring
cent raft, with a chintz canopy, and garlanded with flowers.
He occupies the centre of the raft, and is pampered with
cakes and sugar. A noble of high rank, sometimes a
prince of royal blood (and on the last occasion both the
tirst and second kings), accompanied by a great concourse
of barges, with music and bands of musicians, go forth to
welcome his arrival. Every barge has a rope attached to
the raft, and perpetual shouts of joy attend the progress
of the white elephant to the capital, where, on his arrival,
he is met by the great dignitaries of the State, and by the
monarch himself, who gives the honored visitor some sono-
rous name, and confers on him the rank of nobility. Ho
is conducted to a palace which is prepared for him, where
a numerous court awaits him, and a number of officers
and slaves are appointed to administer to his wants in
vessels of gold and silver.
A superabundance of delicacies is provided for his
repast; if his tusks are grown, they are enriched with
rings ; a sort of diadem is placed on his head ; and his
attendants prostrate themselves, as in the presence of the
great nobles. When conducted to the bath, a huge red
parasol is held over him; music and a cortege of slaves
accompany him on his march. In case of illness, he is
attended by a court physician ; the priests wait upon him,
offer up prayers for his recovery, and sprinkle him with
consecrated water; and on his death there is a universal
mourning, and distinguished funeral honors are paid to his
remains.
[It is believed that these alhinoes are found only in Siam and its
dependencies, and the white elephant (on a red ground) has been made
the flag of the kingdom. ]
The white monkeys enjoy almost the same privileges as
the white elephant ; they are called pdja, have household
Bowring] the elephant IN SIAM. 253
and other officers, but must yield precedence to tbe ele-
phant. The Siamese say that " the monkey is a man, —
not very handsome, to be sure ; but no matter, he is not
less our brother." If he does not speak, it is from pru-
dence, dreading lest the king should compel him to labor
for him without pay ; nevertheless, it seems he has spoken,
for he was once sent in the quality of generalissimo to fight,
if I mistake not, an army of giants. With one kick he split
a mountain in two ; and report goes that he finished the war
with honor.
The Siamese have more respect for white animals than
for those of any other color. Tbey say that when a tala-
poin meets a white cock, he salutes him, — an honor he will
not pay a prince.
[Bowring gives the following further information about the elephant,
quoting from another writer :]
After visiting the ruins, we inspected the kraal or stock-
ade, in which tbe elephants are captured. This was a large
quadrangular piece of ground, enclosed by a wall about six
feet in thickness, having an entrance on one side, through
which the elephants are made to enter the enclosure. In-
side the wall is a fence of strong teak stakes driven into
the ground a few inches apart. In the centre is a small
house erected on poles, and strongly surrounded with
stakes, wherein some men are stationed for the purpose
of securing the animals. These abound in tbe neighbor-
hood of the city, but cannot exactly bo called wild, as the
majority of them have, at some time or other, been sub-
jected to servitude. They are all the property of the
king, and it is criminal to hurt or kill one of them. Once
a year a largo number is collected together in the enclos-
ure, and as many as are wanted of those possessing the
points which the Siamese consider beautiful are captured.
22
254 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowring
The fino points in an elephant are: a color approaching
to white or red, black nails on the toes (the common color
of these nails is black and white), and intact tails (for,
owing to their pugnacious disposition, it is rarely that
an elephant is caught which has not had its tail bitten
off).
On this occasion, the kings and a large concourse of
nobles assemble together to witness the proceedings ; they
occupy a large platform on one side of the enclosure The
wild elephants are then driven in by the aid of tame males
of a very large size and great strength, and the selection
takes place. If an animal which is wanted escapes from
the kraal, chase is immediately made after it by a tame
elephant, the driver of which throws a lasso to catch the
feet of the fugitive. Having effected this, the animal on
which he rides leans itself with all its power the opposite
way, and thus brings the other violently to the ground.
It is then strongly bound, and conducted to the stables.
Naturally enough, accidents are of common occurrence,
men being frequently killed by the infuriated animals,
which are sometimes confined two or three days in the
enclosure without food. When elephants are to be sent
to Bangkok, a floating house has to be constructed for the
purpose.
As elephants were placed at our disposal, we enjoyed the
opportunity of judging of their capabilities in a long ride
through places inaccessible to a lesser quadruped. Their
step is slow and cautious, and the rider is subjected to a
measured roll from side to side, which at first is somewhat
disagreeable. In traversing marshes and soft ground, they
feel their way with their trunks. They are excessively
timid ; horses are a great terror to them, and, unless they
are well trained, the report of a fowling-piece scares them
terribly.
Bowring] THE ELEPHANT IN SIAM. 255
[To Dr. Collins, an American missionary, we owe the following
narrative of experience in elephant riding.]
Our first half-hour of elephant riding was of such a
trying character that all after-experiences failed to awaken
fear or wonder. The Siamese huts, like those of the Karens,
from which we first mounted the elephants, were elevated
some ten feet from the ground, and reached by a ladder.
When ready to start, all we had to do was to step from the
floor of the hut on to the elephant's head, and then into
the howdah. This chair or saddle rested on the elephant's
back, and was held in position by a crupper under the
tail, and a rattan girth around the neck of the animal.
From our hut to the river's brink was a distance of fifty
feet, down a rugged and steep bank, at an incline of at
least forty-five degrees. Down this, through the tall grass
and bamboos, our elephants made their way, sometimes
sliding on their haunches, and then bracing, or feeling their
way by their trunks. Into the soft ooze of the river they
plunged, and waded through water so deep that nothing
but the howdahs and the elephants' heads and trunks
appeared above the surface. Then, up the opposite bank,
equally steep, they climbed with slow but certain steps,
until we reached tho level land and the jungle path. . . .
As our elephant drivers and guides were always anxious
to lodge in the Karen villages, and as we were frequently
delayed by obstructions in our pathway, we did not
average over five hours of travel per day. With tho
exception of two nights, we were not compelled to sleep
in the jungle, but lodged in Siamese or Karen villages.
We were always treated with great kindness, and not in
a single instance, for boats, elephants, food, or lodging,
was the question of remuneration so much as stated. Most
of the way we wero able to purchase rice and fish, and
sometimes eggs and fowls ; but most of tho Karens scorned
256 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Bowrinq
quite destitute of variety in food. We usually paid fifty
cents per day for each elephant, and the same amount for
each night's lodging, while the entire expense of our journey
from Bangkok to Maulmain did not exceed seventy-five
dollars.
I cannot close this part of my article without a few
remarks about elephants and their drivers. On arriving
at our resting-place for the night, it was usual to turn the
elephants (partially fettered) loose among the bamboos;
thus, nearly all night long, we could hear the snapping of
the tall reeds in order that the leaves might be stripped
for food. When this noise was not heard, we could usually
hear the tinkle of the elephants' bamboo bells, and thus
know their locality. Some of the drivers, however, were
always on the watch, and some one of the elephants was
sure to be a favorite.
When the elephants were grazing in the jungle, bright
fires were always kindled, that blazed the long night
through. The drivers, on these occasions, always boiled
their rice in hollow green bamboos, and frequently the
elephants would come forward for bits of rice or salt, and
then retire. I remember awaking one night out of a sound
sleep, and, looking towards the blaze and outstretched
sleepers, espied one of the huge brutes seated on his
haunches, like an immense dog, warming himself before
the fire. So grave, comical, and strange the scene appeared,
in the solemn midnight of the tropical forest, that I had
to awaken my wife to behold the sight.
The elephant driver sits on the head of the animal, and
by the aid of a heavy knife assists in clearing the forest
pathway. Some years ago one of our elephants, in pass-
ing through the forest, had his trunk wound around a
large bamboo, in the act of snapping it, when his driver,
in attempting to assist with, his knife, struck at the bamboo
Viont:] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 257
and cut the animal's proboscis half off, and thus exposed
the air-passages a foot from its extremity. The cut, owing
to the restlessness of the animal, never united, though it
healed ; and thus, when the poor animal attempted to grasp
a bamboo, the frightful opening was revealed. In our
journey we rode fourteen different elephants, and all of
them, without exception, behaved in the most gentle,
intelligent, and patient manner, mutual affection seeming
to subsist between master and beast.
THE VALE OF CASHMERE.
G. T. VIGNE.
[This celebrated mountain valley, sacred to poetry, and especially
made famous by Moore's poem of Lalla Kookh, had for one of its
earliest and most thorough modern explorers Mr. G. T. Vigne, who
left England in 1832, travelled to India by way of Turkey, Armenia,
and Persia, visited Afghanistan, and in 1835 set out for Cashmere,
whence he explored the difficult mountain regions of the Upper In-
dus, on the borders of Central Asia. He returned to England in 1839,
having attained very valuable geographical results. Of the general
aspect of Cashmere he gives the following description :]
The hill of Shupeyon rises from the plain about one
mile from the town : it is composed of trap-rock, and its
height is about three hundred and fifty feet. I thence en-
joyed a first and excellent view of the valley, which was
hardly broken throughout its whole length of ninety miles,
and entirely surrounded by snowj' mountains. Far to the
left, over the extreme northwestern end of the valley, rose
the snow-peaks of Durawar; the two or three small hills,
breaking the level surface of the valley, were distinguished
with difficulty ; and the whole of the intervening slopes of
III.— r 22*
258 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Vigne
tho Pir Panjal, from the enow downward into the valley,
are covered with a magnificent forest of pines, thirty miles
in length, and from three to seven miles in width.
The Valley of Cashmere is generally a verdant plain,
ninety miles in length and twenty-five miles in its greatest
width, at the southern end, between the cataract of Arabul
and the ruins of the great temple of Martund ; surrounded
on every side by snowy mountains, into which there are
numerous inlets, forming glens on a level with the plain,
but each with a lofty pass at its upper extremity. There
are many elevated points of view from which this extraor-
dinary hollow gave me, at first sight, an idea of its having
been originally formed by the falling in of an exhausted
volcanic region.
The interest taken in a view of the Valley of Cashmere
would certainly bo rather that of the agriculturist than of
the prospect-hunter ; but nothing can bo more truly sylvan
than the greater part of the mountain scenery. It has not,
however, the verdure of the tropics. The trees, it is true,
in many instances, may differ from those of Europe ; but
with tho exception of occasional beautiful masses of deo-
dars, tho aspect of the forest, at a little distance, is wholly
European. Looking from the hill of Shupeyon, innumer-
able villages were scattered over the plains in every direc-
tion, distinguishable in the extreme distance by the trees
that surrounded them : all was soft and verdant, even up
to the snow on the mountain-top ; and I gazed in surprise,
excited by the vast extent and admirably defined limits of
the valley, and the almost perfect proportions of height to
distance by which its scenery appeared to be universally
characterized.
[The situation of the town of Islamabad ("residence of the faith-
ful"), on the banks of the Jhelum, is thus described:]
Viqnk] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 259
Islamabad is situated on the westward of, and under a
hill which rises to the height of about three hundred and
fifty feet above it, commanding an exquisite view of the
plain and the mountains at the southern end of the valley.
From its foot flows the holy fountain of Anat Nag, the
first waters of which are received into tanks whose sides
are built up with stone, embellished with a wooden pavilion,
and overshadowed with large chunar-trees. Around them
are numerous idlers, Cashmerians, Sikh soldiers, Hindoo
fakeers, and dogs, reposing in the enjoyment of a cool air
and delicious shade. In the evening two or three aged
Pundits were to be seen making their way to the place
near which the spring issues from the rock, and afterwards
kneeling over the water, and mumbling their prayers as
their fathers bad done before them, by the glare of lighted
pieces of split pine.
At the village of Mar-tund, or " the sun," half an hour's
ride from Islamabad, is the most holy spring in all Cash-
mere. It is said that, after the valley was dried, small
hills and caves appeared, and that Kashef Eishi, a holy
sage, walked about in the greatest delight ; that he acci-
dentally found an egg shining most brilliantly, which he
picked up. It broke in his hand, and from it flowed the
springs of Maha-Martund, "The great God of the Sun,"
sacred to Vishnu. Houses and Hindoos surround the small
tank which is formed near it, and which swarms with Him-
alaya trout ; but the superstitious Pundits objected to my
catching one with my hand, — which would not have been
difficult, on account of the number, and the eagerness with
which they are fed.
On the highest part of the plain, where it commences a
rise to its junction with the mountains, are situated the
ruins of the Hindoo temple of Martund, or Surya (the
Sun), or, as it is commonly called, tho " Pandoo-Koroo," or
260 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Vignk
the house of the Pandoos and Koroos, — of whom it is not
necessary to say more than that they are the Cyclopes of
the East. Every old building, of whose origin the poorer
classes of Hindoos, in general, have no information, is be-
lieved to have been the work of the Pandoos. As an iso-
lated ruin, this deserves, on account of its solitary and
massive grandeur, to be ranked, not only as the first ruin
of the kind in Cashmere, but as one of the noblest among
the architectural relics of antiquity which are to be seen
in any country. Its noble and exposed situation at the
foot of the hills reminded me of that of the Escurial : it
has no forest of cork-trees and evergreen oaks before it,
nor is it to be compared in point of size to that stupendous
building ; but it is visible from as great a distance, and the
Spanish Sierras cannot for a moment be placed in competi-
tion with the verdant magnificence of the mountain scenery
of Cashmere.
[The city of Shahbad, the largest place in the southern part of the
valley, was a ruin, and there was scarcely anything to he seen of the
ancient palace of the Moguls. The orchards of Shahbad, however,
still produced the best apples, and the wheat grown there is considered
the finest in Cashmere. A few miles from the city is the celebrated
fountain of Vernag, a favorite place of the Mogul Emperors.]
The palace is now a ruin with scarcely any of the beau-
ties of a ruin, and the country is overgrown with weeds
and jungle. But neither time nor tyranny can make any
change in the magnificent spring of Vernag. Its waters
are received into a basin partly made by the Emperor Je-
hangir : the circumference is about one hundred and twenty-
five yards, and the whole is surrounded by a low octagonal
wall, in which are twenty-four niches, each of eight feet in
height. The water is beautifully clear, twenty-five feet
deep, and swarming with Himalaya trout.
Vigne] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 261
In the interior, on tho wall, there is the following in-
scription : " This place of unequalled beauty was raised to
tho skies by Jehangir Shah ; consider well. Its date is
found in the sentence, — Palace of the Fountain of Ver-
nag." In the Persian language letters are also used for
the expression of numbers, and the letters in the fore-
going sentence are equivalent to tho number 1029 (of tho
Hegira), which answers to a.d. 1619. Over the entrance
is written, " This fountain has come from tho springs of
Paradise !"
[The following account indicates that the Cashmerians are not with-
out their sense of humor ;]
They have a custom throughout these countries which
answers in some respects to what we call making an April
fool. When the new snow falls, one person will try to de-
ceive another into holding a little in his hand; and accord-
ingly he will present it to him (making some remark by
way of a blind at the same time), concealed in a piece of
cloth, or a stick, or an apple, folded in the leaves of a
book, or wrapped up in a letter. If the person inadver-
tently takes what is thus presented to him, the other has
a riirht to show him the snow he has thus received, and to
rub it in his face, or to pelt him with it, accompanied by
the remark, " New snow is innocent," and to demand, also,
a forfeit of an entertainment, or a dance, or some other
boon, of the person he has deceived. The most extreme
caution is, of course, used by every one upon that day.
Ahmed Shah, of Little Thibet, told me that some one once
attempted to deceive him by presenting him with a new
gun-barrel, and pretending that he wished for his opinion
about it; but that he instantly detected the snow in the
barrel, and had the man paraded through the neighbor-
hood on a donkey, with his face turned towards tho tail.
262 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Vigne
[Twelve hours by boat from Islamabad, on the Jhelum, lies the
famous city of Srinagur, the capital and largest city of Cashmere. It
occupies the loveliest section of the celebrated vale, and is famed as
the abode of Nourmahal, the heroine of Moore's well-known poem.]
Before entering the city it will be best to notice the
centre of the valley. Its general features are ricefields,
irrigated in plateaux, open meadows, cornfields, and vil-
lages embosomed in trees; elevated alluvial plains, that,
either from position, or from being protected by a rocky
base, have escaped being washed away by the large and
numerous streams that descend from the slopes of the
Panjal to a junction with the Jelum, and have furrowed
and divided them, more or less, throughout the whole
length of the course of the river. The height of the cliff, or
terrace, which they form varies from sixty to a hundred
and twenty feet. Here and there a remarkable hill rises
from the plain, crowned with a shrine or mosque, or a tuft of
fir-trees, giving a pleasing variety to the landscape, which
is comparatively bare of forest.
As I approached the city I was struck by the Tukt-i-
Suliman (Throne of Solomon), an isolated hill, about three-
quarters of a mile in length, and four hundred and fifty
fifty feet in height, bare of trees, but covered with long
grass where the rock permitted it to grow. It is divided
from the mountains by a wide ravine, from which opens a
view of the city lake, and through which is constantly
blowing a breeze that must tend to prevent stagnation of
its waters. This singular hill is called by the Hindoos
Sir-i-Shur, or Siva's Head, in contradistinction to Huri-
Purbut, the Hill of Huri, or Vishnu, on the opposite side
of the city.
There are the remains of an ancient Hindoo temple on
the summit. The interior has been plastered over and
whitewashed by the Sikhs, and it is said that beneath it
Vignb] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 263
there is an ancient inscription ; there is also one in Per-
sian, which informs us that a fakeer resided there, who
called himself the water-carrier of King Solomon, and was
in the habit of descending every day to the lake, for the
purpose of drawing water. A foot-path leads up the as-
cent from the city side, while from the other a good hill-
pony can carry its rider to the summit. I knew the foot-
path well, as for almost every day during a month I used
to go up in order to complete a panoramic drawing of the
valley.
Softness, mantling over the sublime, is the prevailing
characteristic of the scenery of Cashmere ; verdure and
forest appear to have deserted the countries on the north-
ward, in order to embellish the slopes from its snowy
mountains, give additional richness to its plains, and com-
bine with its delightful climate to render it not unworthy
of the rhyming epithets applied to it in the East, —
"Kashmir, bi-nuzir, — without an equal ;
Kashmir, junat puzi, — equal to paradise."
Boautiful, indeed, is the panoramic view that meets the
eye of the spectator from the Throne of Solomon, and
which, taken far and near, is one
" sweet interchange
Of hill and valley, rivers, woods, and plains,
Now land, now lake, and shores with forest crowned,
Rocks, dens, and caves."
The city, which lies to the northwest, may bo said to
commence at the foot of this hill ; and on the other side
of it, two miles to the northward, is the fort of Cashmere,
built upon Huri-Purbut, whose top is about two hundred
ami fifty feet above tho level of the lake, which occupies
26-1 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Viqnb
the space that intervenes between these two " portals of
light" and the mountains surrounding the valley.
The aspect of the city itself is curious, but not particu-
larly striking. It presents an innumerable assemblage of
house-gables, interspersed with the pointed and metallic
tops of mosques, melon-grounds, sedgy inlets from the
lake, and narrow canals, fringed with rows of willows and
poplars. The surface of the lake itself is perfectly tranquil,
and the very vivid reflections which cover its surface are
only disturbed by the dabbling of wild- fowl or the ripple
that follows the track of the distant boat. At one glance
we have before us the whole of the local pictures described
in Lalla Eookh.
The margin of the lake, which from its northern to its
southern extremity is nearly five miles in length by about
two and a half in width, is flat, verdaut, and open, usually
edged with willows, poplars, and other trees, numerous only
at intervals, so that the eye is immediately attracted by
the thicker masses of foliage which form the gardens of
JSTasim and Nishat, and the far-famed Shalimar. Among
them sparkles the white pavilion on the isle of Chunars, or
Silver Island, and another green spot is the Golden Island.
The large platform of a ruined building is seen on the
southern shore, and on the northern are the terraces of two
other gardens, neglected and in ruins. Numerous villages
on the edge of the water, surrounded with walnuts and
chunars, are taken into the view ; a green causeway which
extends across it is an object of attraction ; but we look on
the famed floating gardens of Cashmere without being
able to distinguish them from the green and richly culti-
vated grounds upon that edge of the water which borders
the city.
A precipitous but verdant range of about two thousand
feet in height circles around the lake to the northward,
Vigne] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 265
commencing its rise at about a mile from the shores, until
it has surrounded that portion of the circumference which
extends between the Throne of Solomon and the Shalimar.
There it ceases, and a part of the great range which sur-
rounds the Vale of Cashmere lifts its snowy peaks near at
hand.
It must be remembered that we are upon an elevation
in the centre of one of the sides of the valley ; that it is
ninety miles in length, with a varying breadth ; and that
it is surrounded on every side by a towering wall of
mountains, the summits of a great proportion of which
are usually covered with snow. Terraces, cornfields, rice-
grounds, meadows, and morasses occupy the centre of the
valley; they are all brightly tinted in the foreground, but
in the distance recede into one uniform blue. Several iso-
lated hills and innumerable villages are scattered over the
landscape. The lino of beauty was never more faithfully
drawn in landscape than by the broad and beautiful Jelum,
the fabulosus Ilydaspes of the Augustan age.
The river passes within half a mile of the foot of Solo-
mon's Throne, and is nearly two hundred and fifty yards
in breadth before it enters the city. Its banks are fringed
with willows, among which is a summer-house, with a
white cupola, built by the Sikh governor. An avenue of
poplars, nearly a mile in length, runs through the corn-
fields parallel to it, from the foot of the Throne to the
Amir's bridge, close to which is the city fort, or residence
of the governor, at the entrance of the city, where the
stream narrows to about eighty yards. Beyond the bridge
we trace it to the northwest, by occasional glimpses, nearly
as far as the Great Lake, which is twenty miles distant.
The hoary range of the Panjal, in front, is joined with the
mountains of Kishtawar on the south, and on the north-
west is continued into the still loftier snow peaks of Dura-
2G6 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Viqnb
war, on the left bank of the Indus, so as to form but one
vast mural cordillera, and a fitting boundary for the noblest
valley in the world.
Descending from the Throne of Solomon, we imme-
diately pass over the bridge of the Drogjun, under which
runs the canal that connects the lake with the Jekim
River; it is called by the people the "Apple-tree Canal."
When the surface of the lake, as is usually the case, is
higher than that of the river, the flood-gates remain open,
and when the river becomes full they close of themselves,
so as to prevent the lake from being overflowed and its
waters from spreading themselves over the adjacent
country. The canal is exceedingly pretty ; the water is
very clear, and numerous fish play among the long reeds
that wave upon its edges. One of the governors had it in
contemplation to unite the trees on either bank by a kind
of suspended trellis-work, and then to have planted vines,
whose fruit and branches would have been thus supported
over the midst of the stream.
The Hindoo ruins in the city are composed chiefly, if
not entirely, of large rectangular blocks of limestone, sim-
ilar to those at Martund and other places. The largest
consists of two platforms raised one above another, one of
twenty yards square, resting on another of forty-four by
sixty-eight yards. The height of this enormous mass of
stone-work, which no doubt once supported a temple of
proportionate size, is now about twenty-four feet. The
Hindoo temples must have been exceedingly numerous ;
the foundation of the houses in the city, closing the side
of the river, are often formed of large blocks which have
been drawn from them. A capital turned upside-down, a
broken shaft, or an injured pedestal may frequently be
observed embedded in the wall, performing the office of
ordinarj r building-stone. The river, in passing through the
Viune] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 267
city, has thus beon narrowed to a width of about eighty
yards; an immovable barrier is opposed to its expansion,
and its stream is consequently more rapid and deeper than
in any other part of the valley.
Noor Jehan (The Light of the World), the " Nourmahal"
(light of tho palace) of Lalla Eookh, is the most re-
nowned name in the valley, that of her august consort,
Jehangir, not excepted. In spite of tho more authentic
story of her birth, the Cashmerians would have us believe
that she was a native of tho valley. The new mosque in
tho city was built by her, and is, in fact, the only edifice of
the kind that can vie in general aspect and finish with tho
splendor of the Pearl Mosque at Agra. The interior of the
building is about sixty-four yards in length, and of pro-
portionate breadth, the roof being supported by two rows
of massive square piers running through the entire length
of the building, tho circular compartments between them
being handsomely ribbed and vaulted. When I was in
Cashmere, it was used as a granary or storehouse for rice.
The mosque of Shah Hamadan occupies a conspicuous
situation on the bank of the river, in the midst of tho city.
His story, as believed by the Mussulmans, is as follows :
Tamerlane was one night wandering in disguise about the
streets of his capital (Samarkand), and overheard an old
man and his wife talking over their prospects of starva-
tion ; upon which ho took off an armlet, threw it to them,
and departed unseen. A pretended Syud, or descendant
of the prophet, asked them how they came by the armlet,
and accused them of having stolen it. The matter was
made known to Tamerlane, who very sagaciously decreed
that the owner must be the person who could produce tho
fellow armlet. He then displayed it in his own possession,
and ordered the accuser to undergo tho ordeal of hot iron,
which he refused, and was put to death in consequence.
268 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Viqnb
Tamerlane, moreover, put to death all the other pretended
Syuds in the country.
One named Shah Hamadan, who really was a descendant
of the Prophet, accused Tamerlane of impiety, told him
that he would not remain in his country, and by virtue of
his sanctity was able to transport himself through the air
to Cashmere. He descended where the mosque now
stands, and told the Hindoo fakeer, who had possession of
the spot, to depart. The latter refused, whereupon Shah
Hamadan said that if he would bring him news from
heaven he would then believe in him. The fakeer, who
had the care of numerous idols, immediately despatched
one of them towards heaven, upon which Shah Hamadan
kicked his slipper after it with such force that the idol
fell to the ground. He then asked the fakeer how he be-
came so great a man. The latter replied, by doing charita-
ble actions, and thereupon Shah Hamadan thought him
worthy of being made a convert to Islam.
The Mar Canal is, perhaps, the most curious place in the
city : it leaves the small lake at the northeast corner,
and boats pass along, as at Venice. Its narrowness, for it
does not exceed thirty feet in width, its walls of massive
stone, its heavy single-arch bridges and landing-places of
the same material, the gloomy passages leading down upon
it, betoken the greatest antiquity ; while the lofty and
many-storied houses that rise directly from the water,
supported only by thin trunks of deodar, seem ready to
fall down upon the boat with every gust of wind. It
could not but remind me of the old canals in Venice, and
although far inferior in architectural beauty, is, perhaps,
of equal singularity.
In a division of the lake called Kutawal, the far-famed
floating gardens of Cashmere are anchored, or rather
pinned to the ground by means of a stake. These, how-
Vione] THE VALE OF CASHMERE. 269
ever, are very wn-Lala Rookhish in appearance, not being
distinguishable from beds of reeds and rushes. Their
construction is extremely simple, and they are made long
and narrow that they may be the more easily taken in
tow. A floating garden ten yards long by two or three
in width may be purchased for a rupee (fifty cents). Mr.
Moorcroft has well described the manner in which these
gardens are made. The weeds at the bottom, cut by
means of a scythe, rise and float on the surface ; these aro
matted together, secured, and strewed with soil and
manure ; a protecting fence of rushes is allowed to spring
up around them, — and upon this platform a number of
conical mounds or heaps of weeds are constructed, about
two feet in height. On the tops of these is placed some
soil from the bottom of the lake ; the melon and cucumber
plants are set upon it, and no further care is necessary.
What has been poetically termed the feast of roses has
of late years been rather the feast of sing ar as, or water-
nuts. It is held, I believe, about the 1st of May, when
plum-trees and roses are in full bloom, and is called the
Shakufeh, from the Persian shakufan, to blow or blossom.
The richer classes come in boats to the foot of Solomon's
Throne, ascend it, and have a feast upon the summit, eating
more particularly of the water-nuts.
The average depth of the lake is not more than seven
to ten feet, and, the water being very clear, the bottom,
covered with weeds, is almost constantly visible. At the
northern corner are the ruins of a once splendid pleasure-
ground, whose walled terraces, rising one above the other,
might easily be converted into a botanical garden, for
which its extent and aspect seems admirably calculated.
The Shalimar stands on the eastern margin of the lake.
It is a building placed at the upper end of a walled garden
seven or eight hundred yards in length by two hundred
23*
270 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Viqnb
and eighty in width. It is of polished black marble, con-
sisting of a central passage and two rooms on either side.
The building is twenty-four yards square, and the north
and south sides are ornamented with Saracenic reliefs. It
stands in the centre of a square reservoir, which is also
lined with black marble : the sides thereof are fifty- four
yards long, and the whole enclosure contains one hundred
and forty-seven fountains, Avhich are made to play on holi-
days, the reservoir being filled by the stream which enters
it in the shape of a cascade.
The stream then descends from the reservoir by a shallow
canal, cut through the centre of the gardens and lined with
marble, and falls over an artificial cascade at each of the
three lodges through which it passes on its way to the lake.
A broad causeway or walk runs on each side of it, over-
shadowed by large plane-trees, while hero and there a few
turfed walks branch on at right angles into the shrubberies,
in which are little else than wild plum-trees, planted for
the sake of their white blossoms. The principal lodges are
elegantly- fronted Saracenic houses, which were evidently
intended for the accommodation of the officers and servants
of the Emperor Jehangir. Many plane-trees are planted
around, and with their shade, combined with the freshness
produced by the fountains, the air is as cool as could be
wished, even in the hottest day.
The lotus, with its noble pink and white flower, is very
common, and, in fact, the leaves are so numerous that in
some places they form a verdant carpet, over which the
water-hens and others of the same genus run securely
without risk of being immersed. In the hot weather, the
children in the boats pick a large leaf and place it on their
heads, as a shelter from the rays of the sun, or, by break-
ing off the stalk close to the leaf, obtain a tube through
which they drink of the water poured in from above.
Viqne] the VALE OF CASHMERE. 271
The stalks arc very commonly eaten by the poorer classes :
when dry, the seeds are strung together like beads. . . .
Srinagur has a population of about eighty thousand souls.
The Cashmcrian peasants differ but little from the inhabi-
tants of the city, but the latter are more civilized and per-
haps better looking. There are Mussulmans and Hindoos,
the former predominating in the proportion of three to one
in the city, and nine to one in the villages. The com-
plexion of the Mussulman Cashmerian is generally not so
dark, certainly not darker, than that of the natives of the
south of Europe, the Neapolitans, for instance, to whom
they may also bo compared on account of the liveliness and
humor of their disposition ; but their features are large
and aquiline, like those of tho Afghans, and I do not know
that I can better describe them than by calling them sub-
dued Jewish ; while a Hindoo may often be distinguished
by the fairness of his complexion. I was also told that
this was attributable to their eating a less quantity of
animal food than the Mussulmans. I have heard that the
natives of the valley ascribe their own beauty to the great
softness of the water. I have remarked that the water
softens a shawl better than any other ; and there is un-
doubtedly a peculiar softness in tho air of the valley. It
is remarked that tho horns of cattle, sheep, and goats
never attain there to any great size, and, in fact, are rather
small than otherwise. Neither has the tobacco of Cash-
mere the pungency of that grown elsewhere.
Many of the women are handsome enough to induce a
man to exclaim, as did the Assyrian soldiers when they
beheld tho beauty of Judith, " Who would despise this
people, that have among them such women ?" Their dress
is a red gown, with largo loose sleeves, and red fillet on the
forehead, over which is thrown a white mantilla. Tho hair
is braided in separate plaits, then gathered together, and a
272 HALF-HOURS OF TRAVEL. [Polo
long tassel of black cotton is suspended from it almost to
the ankles.
In Cashmere there is no concealment of the features,
except among the higher classes. I do not think that the
beauty of the women has been overrated. They have not
that slim and graceful shape which is so common in Hin-
dostan, but are more usually gifted with a style of figure
which would entitle them to the appellation of fine or
handsome women in European society. They have the
complexion of brunettes, with more pink on the cheeks,
while that of the Hindoo women has often too much of the
pink and white in it. Whatever the other features may be,
they have usually a pair of large, almond-shaped hazel eyes,
and a white and regular set of teeth. The inhabitants of
the boats, male and female, are perhaps the handsomest
people in the valley.
CENTRAL ASIA IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY.
MARCO POLO.
[The celebrated traveller to whom we owe the present selection,
and whose name stands side by side with that of Columbus in the
annals of early exploration, was a native of Venice, born about 1252,
son of Niccolo Polo, a merchant of noble rank. His travels were pre-
ceded by those of his father, who, about 1255, set out with his brother
on a journey through Asia, with the purpose of selling precious stones.
They reached the court of Kublai Khan, ruler over China and Tartary,
and were very favorably received. Keturning in 1269, they set out
again a few years afterwards, and reached the court of Kublai in
1275. They were now accompanied by young Marco, who learned
several Asiatic languages, rose high into favor with the Khan, and
was employed on several important missions. The three Venetians
left his service in 1292, and reached Venice in 1295, bringing with
them great wealth in precious stones. Marco afterwards took part in a
naval expedition against Genoa, was taken prisoner, and was long held
Polo] CENTRAL ASIA IN THIRTEENTH CENTURY. 273
captive in a Genoese prison. During this captivity he composed an
account of his adventures, which produced a great sensation, and was
long regarded as a tissue of fiction or exaggeration. Its truth and
value are now fully recognized. He died about 1321. The account of
the return of the travellers to Venice, as given in Ramusio's edition
of Marco Polo's travels (1553), equals a story of the "Arabian
Nights" in romantic interest, and is well worth repeating.]
And when they got thither the same fate befell them as
befell Ulysses, who, when he returned, after his twenty
years' wanderings, to his native Ithaca, was recognized by
nobody. Thus also these throe gentlemen, who had been
so many years absent from their native city, were recog-
nized by none of their kinsfolk, who were under the firm
belief that they had all been dead for many a year past,
as indeed had been reported. Through the long duration
and the hardships of their journeys, and through the many
worries and anxieties that they had undergone, they were
quite changed in aspect, and had got a certain indescriba-
ble smack of the Tartar both in air and accent, having
indeed all but forgotten their Venetian tongue. Their
clothes too were coarse and shabby, and of a Tartar cut.
They proceeded on their arrival to their house in this
city, in the confine of St. John Chrysostom, where you
may see it to this day. The house, which was in those
days a very lofty and handsome palazzo, is now known by
the name of the Corte del Millioni for a reason that I will
tell you presently. Going thither, they found it occupied
by some of their rolativos, and they had the greatost
difficulty in making the lattor understand who th 
